3244 PERRY JAPAN AND THE JAPANESE DS 809 P462 1859 □ A 55829 4 DUPL ARTES 18171 LIBRARY SCIENTIA VERITAS OF THE UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN FLUMIBUS STHIPILKIMIUJI TUEBOR SI-QUÆRIS-PENINSULAM-AMⱭNAM” CIRCUMSPICE DS 809 P462 1859 JAPANESE COOPERS. 12 * 17 A JAPAN AND THE JAPANESE: NARRATIVE OF THE U. S. GOVERNMENT EXPEDITION TO JAPAN, UNDER COMMODORE PERRY. BY ROBERT TOMES. SECOND EDITION. LONDON: TRÜBNER & CO., 60, PATERNOSTER ROW. 1859. 1 DS 809 ..P462 1859 !. t CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PAGK Motives of Expedition-Commodore Perry sails in Steamer Mississippi-Arri- val at Madeira-Funchal, its Streets, Houses, and Carriages-Productions of Madeira-Departure from Madeira-Course and winds-The Trades-The. Harmattan-Crossing the Equator--Arrival at St. Helena-Description of the Island-Napoleon and Longwood-Jamestown-The People-A sharp Citizen-Departure from St. Helena-Arrival at Cape of Good Hope-De- scription of the Cape and its Inhabitants-Productions-Constantia Vine- yards and Wine-Caffres, Fingoes, and Bushmen-Hottentot War-Depar- ture from Cape Town-The Passage from the Cape-The Styx spoken, CHAPTER II. First sight of Mauritius-Description of the Island-Rains, Storms, and Hurri- canes-Population-Paul and Virginia-The Mississippi sails for Ceylon- Arrives at Point de Galle-Description-Productions-Inhabitants-Climate -Magnificent Vegetation-Wild Animals-Abundance of Elephants-Hunt- ing them-The various Religions of Ceylon-Phar-Pen-Clow-Chow-Yon-. Hou-The Commodore makes his Acquaintance-Presents him with a Colt's Revolver-The Mississippi leaves Point de Galle-Passage through the Straits of Malacca-Rise and fall of the Tides there-Arrival at Singapore, CHAPTER III. Singapore-History-Inhabitants-Prosperity-Sir Stanford Raffles-A Curious Mixture of Heathenism and Christianity-The hospitable Whampoa-The Rajah of Singapore-Importance of Singapore-Supplies-Scarcity of Coal- Wild Animals-Hungry Tigers-Human Tigers-Departure from Singapore -A Fleet of Fishing Boats-Sight of Land-Arrival in Macao Roads-The Commodore proceeds to Hong-Kong-Description of Hong-Kong-Canton -An account of it-The Pirates-Return to Macao-Luxurious Quarters -Macao, its decay-Beautiful Neighboring Country-Tanka Boat Girls- Cave of Camoens The Commodore sails for Shanghai-Arrival there-De- 027706 1 84 iv CONTENTS. PAGE scription of-Inhabitants-Foreign Residents-Immense Trade-Visit to the Taou-Tai-The Commodore transfers his Flag to the Susquehanna-The Squadron, how composed-Sails for Lew Chew-Arrival at Napha, CHAPTER IV. First View of Lew Chew-Visit from the land-Gifts of the Authorities re- fused-Conference with the Mayor of Napha-The Regent of Lew Chew visits the Commodore-The Commodore reveals himself-Visit to the Shore -The Town of Napha-The Flight of Inhabitants-Costume of People-The Women-The Neighborhood of Napha-Roads and Bridges-The Temple at Tumai-Americans' reception there-An Invitation to Dinner refused-The Dinner sent to the Ships-The Commodore insists upon visiting the Palace -Anxiety of the Regent, 56 91 CHAPTER V. Exploration of Lew Chew-Size of Great Lew Chew-Extent of Exploration- Explorers setting out-Spies-The Pe-ching-Scenery-Picturesque Vil- lages-Shyness of Inhabitants-Cungquas-Ruins of Castle-Phallic Em- blems-Houses of Devil's Men-Return of Explorers-Setting out for Visit to the Palace at Sheudi-The Procession-The Cagoo-Commodore's Sedan -The Road-The Central Hill-Sheudi-The Gate of the City-Arrival at the Palace-The Queen Mother behind the Screen-Short Ceremonies at the Palace The Regent's House-The Feast-Lew Chewan Cuisine-Lilli- putian Bumpers of Sakee-Healths and Toasts Drank-Ichirazichi, the shrewd Interpreter-Return to the Ships, CHAPTER VI. • Commodore sails to the Bonin Islands-The Course and Winds-A Death on Board-The Horrors of the old Chinaman's last moments-Effects of Opium -Arrival at Port Lloyd-The Visitors from the Island-John Bravo-The Bonin Islands-First Discovery-Captain Beechey's Usurpation-Forma- tion of a Government-Geological Formation of Bonins-Strange Rocks- Natural Caves and Canals-Soil, Vegetation, and Productions-Fish and Turtle-The Pirate-Scarcity of Birds-Domestic Animals become wild- -Peel Island-Its Inhabitants-The Capabilities of the Island-The Com- modore makes provision for Future Wants-Passage back to Lew Chew- Arrival at Napha-Deposition of Regent-Supposed to have committed Suicide The Hari-Kari-The new Regent-Feast to him on board the Commodore's Ship-The Lew Chewans enjoy the Wines-Return of the Guests to Shore, 118 129 CHAPTER VII. Anxiety to leave Lew Chew-Mustering of Forces for Expedition to Japan- The Squadron Sails-The Course and Winds-Oho-Sima-The Fourth of July-First Sight of Japanese Coast-The Promontory of Idzu-Entrance to the Bay of Yedo-The Bold Shores-Fleet of Japanese Boats-Mount 1 CONTENTS. PAGE Fuzi-Anchorage of Squadron in the bight of Uraga-A Japanese Boat comes alongside-Its build-Crew--First Visit of Japanese Functionaries- The Japanese Interpreter speaks Dutch-The Seclusion of the Commodore -The Squadron ordered to go to Nagasaki-Commodore refuses-Visit of Governor of Uraga-His Gigantic Card and Name-Kayamon Yezaimon- His Dress-Conference-Insists upon the Squadron going to Nagasaki— The Commodore reiterates his Resolute Refusal-Survey of the Bay-Op- position to Surveyors-The Surveyors frighten away the Japanese-Pre- paration on board the Steamers for the emergency of a Fight-The Japan- ese Forts and Soldiers look Threatening-Long Conferences-A Day ap- pointed at last for an Interview-Gorihama selected- Preparations for Interview-Landing of Commodore-Imposing Escort of Marines and Sail- ors-The Golden Box with the Documents-Reception Ashore-The Hall of Reception-Toda-Idzu-no-Kami and Ido-Iwami-no-Kami, the two Impe- rial Commissioners-The Delivery of the President's Letter-Return to the Ships-Visit of the Japanese Functionaries-Their Intelligent Curiosity- The Commodore transfers his Flag to the Mississippi-Sails up the Bay- View of Yedo-Exchange of small Presents-The Farewell Visit of Yezai- mon and Tatsnoske--Their grief at Parting-Consolation in Wine-Depart- ure of Squadron-Results of first Visit to Japan, * CHAPTER VIII. • Leaving the Shores of Japan-Excited Curiosity of the People-The Islands off the Bay of Yedo-Naming them after the Ships-A Storm-Arrival at Lew Chew-Every thing had gone well during the Commodore's absence -Renewal of Negotiations with Authorities of Lew Chew-A Bazaar-De- parture from Lew Chew-Meeting the Vandalia-Arrival at Hong-Kong- The Powhattan absent-Return of Powhattan-Refitment of Ships-The Commodore establishes himself at Macao-The Hospital-Sickness-The Unhealthfulness of Macao-Healthfulness of Canton-The Causes-The Chi- nese great Gormandizers-Chinese Servants--Laborers' Wages-Male Dress- makers, Ironers, and Washers-The Short Feet-A Chinese Foot unban- daged-The Beggars, their Guilds and Public Institutions-Honesty to be bought The Higher Classes-Suspicious Movements of the French and Russians-The Commodore determines to put to Sea-The Squadron sails to Lew Chew on Second Visit to Japan, CHAPTER IX. Change in Conduct of the Low Chawans-Second Visit to the Palace-Exchanges of Coin-No Coins in Lew Chew-Exploration of the Island-Coal found- Geological Formation-Soil-Climate-Distribution of Land-Agriculture- Cultivation of Rice-Various Productions-Flora-Agricultural Machinery -Sugar Mills-Population of Lew Chew-Similarity between Lew Chewans and Japanese-Affinity of Language-Physical Characteristics-Dress- Women-Marriage-Divorce-Manners-Occupations-Arts-Literature- Cookery-Amusements-War - Government - Religion - Burials Tho Commodore's Purposes effected-Despatch of a part of the Squadron to Japan-The Commodore follows, K 148 170 190 vi CONTENTS. PAGE CHAPTER X. Arrival off the Mouth of the Bay of Yedo-Standing up the Bay-The Wintry Aspect of the Land-Ships Ashore-Relief-Honesty of the Japanese-The American Anchorage-Wintry Aspect of the Bay-A Visit from the Japan- ese Officials-The Commodore urged to return to Uraga-Refusal-Report of the Death of the Emperor of Japan-Repeated Visits of Japanese Offi- cials-The Commodore persists in his refusal to go to Uraga-Interview of Captain Adams with the Imperial Commissioner-A Visit from Yezaimon -Cause of his long absence explained-Sam Patch's Letter-Yokuhama appointed for the Conference-The Landing-Commissioners described- Answer to President's Letter delivered-The Treaty signed-Interchange of Presents-A Substantial Gift-The Wrestlers-The Railroad and Tele- graph-The Delight of the Japanese, CHAPTER XI. Celebration in honor of the Treaty-The American Feast-Splendid Prepara- tions-The Conviviality of the Japanese Guests-The Jovial Mimi-Saki- The Party on Deck-Carrying away Remnants of the Feast-The Negro Minstrels in Japan-The Japanese Feast-Spreading of the Banquet-Soup, Soup, Soup-The Japanese Talleyrand-The Commodore insists upon the Privilege of going Ashore-The Curiosity of Japanese-More Inquisitive than Communicative-The Common People Sociably Disposed-The Scru- tiny of the Spies-An Enterprising Chaplain-His Adventures--Graceful Charity of Japanese Officials-Sociability of Japanese-Women respected -Tea Parties and Gossip-The Commodore's walk Ashore-Visit to a town Official-His Wife and Family-Black Teeth of the Women-The old Lady and Baby of the House-Return of the Commodore-Busy Population- Dress-Death of a Marine-Burial Ashore-The Buddhist Priest-The Com- modore determines to have a Glance at the Capital-Fright of Japanese Officials-Departure of the Commodore for Simoda, CHAPTER XII. • Símoda-Its Position-The Town, how built and laid out-Advanced Civili- zation-Shops and Dwelling Houses-The Exterior-Internal Arrange- ments-Lodging Houses-Announcement of Arrivals -Number of Houses and Population-Disproportion of Officials and Dignitaries-Immoral Prac- tice of Simodans-Diet of People-Cultivation of Rice and Grain-The Buddhist Temples-The Sculpture and Paintings-The Devil's Charity Boxes-Grave-yards-Tombs and Epitaphs-The Rio-zen-shi-The Mias- The godlike Hashiman-The small Shrines-The Mariners' Temple-The Support of the Church-Neighborhood of Simoda-Its Beauty and Cultiva- tion-River Hongo-Japanese Rice-cleaner-Climate and Health of Simoda -The new Local Government, 215 241 264 CHAPTER XIII. The Officers frequent the Shore-The Interference of the Japanese-The Au- CONTENTS. vii PAGE thorities rebuked by the Commodore-The Apology of the Japanese-A Strange Encounter-A Couple of Japanese Travellers - Their Visit to the Ships-Their account of themselves-Their boat adrift-Their Desire to Visit America--The two Japanese caught-Caged-Their Stoicism in Prison-Petition to the Commodore-The Supposed Fate of the "two Scholars from Yedo"-Trouble again with the Authorities-Arrival of Macedonian-A Death on board Ship-Trouble again with the Authorities -An Apology insisted upon and given-Subsequent friendly Intercourse -Departure from Simoda-Passage to Hakodadi-Arrival in the Bay of Hakodadi-The Strait of Sangar-The Bay of Hakodadi, CHAPTER XIV. • Hakodadi-The Harbor and Fisheries-The Position of the Town-Its Beau- ties-The Houses-Precautions against Fire-Fire-engines-Wards and Aldermen-Stillness of Town-Kagoes and Horsemen-Interior and Furni- ture of Houses-How the People sleep and eat-Tea and Sakee-Fish, Fish, and Fish-The better Houses-Their Adornments-The Buddhist Temples -The Shiogen-Zhi-Grave-yards-The Praying Post-Inscriptions-Me- chanical Devotion-The Sintoo Temples-Musical Instruments of Worship -Roadside Idols-Forts and Military Defences-Neighborhood of Hakodadi -Occupations of People-Junk Building - Navigation Laws-Japanese Charts-Workers in Metal-Jewellers and Blacksmiths-Cabinet Ware- Silks and Brocades-Fine Arts in Japan-Knowledge of Perspective-Greek Art in Japan-Architecture-Literature-The Japanese great Readers— Printing and Book-making-Religion-Toleration of American Worship- Arrival of a Japanese Functionary, CHAPTER XV. A Japanese Document-Farewell Visit-Departure frem Hakodadi-Volcano of Oho-Sima-Arrival at Simoda-Arrival of the Commissioners-Confer- ence-Question of Boundary-The Agreement-Supply of Japanese Coal- Sharp Dealing-Complaints and Apologies-A Stone for the Washington Monument-Two Japanese Dogs-Sam Patch Demanded-Refused by the Commodore-Sam Patch's History-Dan Ketch and his History-The Commodore transfers his Flag-Prepares to Depart-Closing Settlements with the Authorities at Simoda-Interesting Conversation with Yenoske -Crucifixion and Hari-Kari-Port Regulations-Departure of the Squadron from Simoda-The First Visit of Christians to Oho-Sima-Arrival at Napha —A Serions Occurrence-Investigation-A Lew Chewan Court and Trial- Verdict and Punishment-Treaty with Lew Chew-Departure from Napha -Arrival at Hong-Kong-The Commodore returns Home-Hauls down his Flag, 289 814 840 CHAPTER XVI. Object of a Closing Chapter-The Voyage of the Southampton to Volcano Bay -Detention from Fog-Sight of the Coast-Entrance to the Bay-Olason viii CONTENTS. PAGE Island-The Ainos-The Japanese Dignitary-Short Commons-The Ainos Described-Hairy Kuriles-Three Volcanoes in Eruption-Visit to Olason Island-Japanese Regard for American Dead-Voyage of Macedonian and Supply to Formosa-Survey of Coast-Contradictory Account of Ship- wrecked Americans-Ruse of the Mandarin of Kelung-Abundance of Coal-The Supply takes in a Load-The Macedonian sails for Manilla- Typhoons and Marine Volcanoes-The Sil-li-ba-boos-Their strange Ad- ventures and Destination-Voyage of Commander Adams-Proceeds to the United States with the Treaty-Returns to Japan with its Ratification- Startling Changes-Terrible Earthquake-Exchange of Ratification-Cour- tesy of Authorities, 862 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. CHAPTER I. THE acquisition of California brought the United States closer to Asia. This nearer approach naturally suggested the advantage of cultivating a more inti- mate intercourse with Eastern nations. Among these was Japan, a country which, by the strange policy of its people, had been excluded for centuries from rela- tionship with the rest of the world. Japan not only offered in its natural resources and the skilful industry of its inhabitants, which had been so highly extolled by travellers, an attraction to the commercial enterprise of the United States, but in its peculiar isolation a provocative of the proverbial in- quisitiveness of Americans. Apart, too, from the interest which attached to Japan on its own account, attention was fixed upon that country in consequence of its lying directly in the course from California to China, and its reputed possession of coal, upon which the development of our intercourse with the Chinese and other Eastern nations, by means of steam-navi- gation, depended. The obvious advantages of establishing friendly 1 - 2 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. relations with the Japanese became naturally a sub- ject of reflection and discussion with many. Among these, Commodore Perry was early distinguished for the warmth of his interest in the question of opening Japan to commercial intercourse; and to him is due. the credit of having proposed to the government the expedition, as to him belongs the honor of the successful result, which it is the purpose of this book to narrate. Commodore Perry's proposition having been favor- ably received by the United States government, it was determined that a squadron should be despatched under his command, on the peaceful mission of en- deavoring to open a friendly commercial intercourse with the Japanese. Great interest was evinced on the part of those in authority in the proposed expe- dition, and orders were issued in regard to the num- ber of vessels and their equipment, on a scale of lib- erality proportionate to the object in view. Twelve vessels were selected and ordered to be fitted for sea without delay. But though the intention of the Gov- ernment was magnificent and the orders prompt, the execution lingered, and the result was comparatively humble. After a delay of nearly twelve months, Com- modore Perry finally sailed from Norfolk on the 24th of November, 1842, with a single vessel, the steamer Mississippi.* On leaving the capes of the Chesapeake, the wind blew strong from the southward for ten days, when it changed to N. N. E., making a heavy wallowing sea, and finally hauled to the westward, blowing *Other vessels, however, were to be sent out, and some already on the East India Station were to join the Expedition. ARRIVAL AT MADEIRA. 3 with great violence. The Mississippi, however, proved herself an excellent sea-boat, and succeeded in aver- aging more than seven knots during the whole pas- sage, notwithstanding that she was unusually deep in the water, and that eight only of the twelve furnaces were in use, with a small daily consumption of Cum- berland coal amounting to twenty-six tons. After crossing the Gulf Stream a south-western current of about a knot an hour was observed, and this continued until the steamer was within a thousand miles of Ma- deira, when it ceased entirely. During the evening of December 11th, seventeen days after leaving Norfolk, land was made. This was Point Atristow, the northern extremity of the island of Madeira, and as the steamer approached and ran along the coast there was an interesting view of the country. The mountain tops rose boldly to the clouds, while down their irregular sides torrents of water poured headlong into the sea. In picturesque contrast with these grander features, were the shel- tered nooks at the bottom of the ravines, which opened to small bays, where could be seen groups of villages and fleets of small coasting vessels, employed in transporting the produce of the country to the ship- ping port of Funchal. The Mississippi did not come to anchor until the evening of the 12th, when she brought up in thirty- three fathoms of water. Funchal, which is the chief port of Madeira, lies on the southern side of the island, and has only an open roadstead. The anchorage here is rocky and uneven, and exceedingly unsafe in the winter season, so that vessels, when expecting a 4 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. gale from S. E. around to W. S. W., generally put to sea and remain out until fine weather. The town of Funchal is situated upon a mountainous acclivity, and consists principally of a wide avenue extending along the sea-shore. From this main street numerous smaller ones stretch transversely and pass for some distance up the slope of the hill. The popu- lation of Funchal amounts to about twenty thou- sand people, with whom there is always a large mix- ture of foreigners. The acknowledged healthfulness of the climate has made it a great resort for invalids, the greater portion of whom are English. As the streets of the city are paved in such a manner as to forbid the use of wheel carriages, sedan chairs and hammocks were until very lately used, not only by invalids, but by all others. A substitute is however now adopted, which consists of the ordinary sledge 3 Carriage on Sled. PRODUCTS OF MADEIRA. 10 5 used for conveying casks of wine and other heavy articles, surmounted by a gaily decked carriage-body and drawn by a yoke of oxen. This is now consid- ered the fashionable equipage, and the Commodore, accompanied by his flag captain and his aid, made all his official visits in such a one. There are stands in the streets, as for the cabs and hackney-coaches with us, where these vehicles may be found with the oxen yoked and every thing in readiness for a drive. The ox-carriage is by no means, however, the only fashionable mode of conveyance. Horseback riding is also in favor, and particularly with the ladies, who frequently present themselves, unattended either by a cavalier or a groom, but by a footman, who, keeping pace on foot with the easy gait of the horse, brushes away the flies and otherwise devotes himself to the ser- vice of his mistress. For inland travelling the sure- footed ass is much used, and is undoubtedly the best adapted for the rough and irregular mountainous roads of the country. эо Wine is the chief product of Madeira. When the island was however first settled by the Portuguese, sugar was cultivated, but this was discontinued after the islands of the West Indies were brought under culture, and the attention of the agriculturist was con- centrated upon the production of wine. The export of this has been large, and principally to England. The amount has been estimated as high as £500,000 per annum. The Mississippi, having taken on board nearly five hundred tons of coal, ten thousand gallons of water, and other necessary stores, weighed anchor on the 6 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. evening of Wednesday, December 15th, and pro- ceeded to sea, under steam, shaping her course to pass to the westward of Palma, one of the Canaries. This island was made at daylight on the morning of the 17th of December, and after reaching the lee of Hierro or Ferro, the south-westernmost of the group, the paddle-boards on each side of the vessel were re- moved, the fires extinguished, and the steamer left entirely dependent on her sails. So thick was the atmosphere in the neighborhood of the Canaries that Teneriffe was not seen at all, and but an indistinct view obtained of Gomera. This was the more surprising because, as Baron Humboldt has · remarked, although the peak of Teneriffe is seldom seen at a great distance in the warm, dry months of July and August, yet in January and February, when the sky is slightly clouded, and immediately before or after a heavy rain, it is seen at very extraordinary distances. This arises from the fact that when a cer- tain quantity of water is uniformly diffused through the atmosphere the transparency of the latter is there- by greatly increased. Ever since the Mississippi had left Norfolk, an ex- traordinary swell had been observed coming from the north-west. This never intermitted for a moment until the ship was fairly within the trades, and even then its influence could be felt in the disturbance of the usually regular sea produced by the periodical winds, and by the production of a disagreeable cross move- ment of the waves. It was difficult to account for this swell so long continued; it was quite certain the ship had experienced no violence of wind sufficient THE TRADES. 7 to produce it, in the region which she had traversed, and since the 18th (Dec.) the winds had been quite moderate. It was conjectured that there must have been, in the higher latitudes, a succession of north- westerly gales, which had prevailed long enough to set in motion an ocean wave which was never sub- dued until it came in contact with the steady, though more quiet, tropical swell. This swell, too, had possibly an effect in throwing farther south than usual the northern boundary of the trades. From the time of removing the paddles (Dec. 17), to the 20th, the wind continued from the southward and westward, contrary to the expectation of the Com- modore, who had ordered the steamer's floats to be re- moved, with the hope, as at the moment there was a moderate breeze from E. S. E., that the vessel would immediately have the benefit of the trade winds. He was however disappointed, for it was not before three days afterward, and not until the Mississippi had reached latitude 25° 44' north, and longitude 20° 23' west, that the ship could be considered to have fairly en- tered the trades. This is a point unusually far south for the northern boundary of these winds at this season, for it is not to be forgotten that the northern and southern boundaries of the zone of the trade winds are variable. The south-east has its northern boundary furthest to the north during our summer; the north- east is then weakest. In our winter this state of things is exactly reversed. In our autumn the zone of the trades reaches its greatest northern declination; and in our spring it is at its utmost southern limit. During the 21st, 22d, and 23d of December, the * 8 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. wind continued from the northward and eastward; about noon of the 23d, it inclined to the southward of east, hauling around at night, however, more to the north; and on the 24th, when the ship was abreast of Brava and Fogo, it stood at E. N. E. The haze was so thick that nothing but a glimpse could be obtained of Fogo. This haze is common to these latitudes, and is supposed by many to be caused by what is called the Harmattan. This is the name given to a wind which, passing over Africa, takes up in its sweep, as is believed, an impalpable dust and carries it far away to the westward. Strange stories are told of the effects of the Harmattan, which is said. to check or cure various diseases, heal up the most inveterate ulcers, destroy cabinet work, break window- glass, and stop the motions of a clock or a chronome- ter. The effects of this wind are sufficiently remark- able in reality, without the aid of imagination to exaggerate them. They bear some resemblance to those of the Sirocco of the African desert, and of the Levanter of the Grecian Archipelago. The Harmattan begins about the middle of De- cember and continues until the latter end of March. Like the Sirocco, it has been supposed to take its rise in the deserts of Africa; but unlike the Sirocco, in- stead of being hot and oppressive, it is a chilling wind. Its direction is always from the land, and it sometimes increases to a strong breeze; it does not, however, blow steadily during its season, but frequently inter- mits when land or sea breezes take its place. At the Cape de Verd and the Gambia, the Har- mattan appears to form a junction with the north-east. THE HARMATTAN. 9 trades prevailing there at a certain season, and to blow with little interruption from January until April. It is supposed by some that this wind, in passing over the deserts and lands of Africa, takes up a quan- tity of sand and dust sufficient to form a floating mass, producing an atmosphere so hazy as frequently to ob- scure the sun and prevent the sight of the land at the distance of only five miles. At the season of the Harmattan, the peculiar atmosphere which accom- panies it may be always observed at the Cape de Verd islands four hundred miles from the continent, and is always settling in quantities sufficient to cover the sails, rigging, and deck of a ship. It is also re- ported to have been met with seven hundred miles further westward. The dust of the Harmattan has been examined by the microscope in the hands of the celebrated investi- gator, Ehrenberg, who found that it was composed of infusoria and organisms, which belong not to Africa, but to the south-east trade region of South America. It is therefore conjectured that the south-east trades may have brought the dust, great as is the distance, from South America. As the north-east trades had become light and un- steady, with occasional calms, the paddles were re- placed upon the wheels, and the ship was put under steam on the 29th of December. The north-east trades, however, continued until the next day to 6° 8' north latitude and 16° 34′ west longitude. A squall then coming from the eastward, the wind changed to the southward and so continued, though somewhat va- riable, until January 2d, 1853, in latitude 1° 44′ north 1* 10 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. and longitude 11° 37' west, when the south-east trade was met, bringing with it a swell which considerably retarded the vessel's progress. When the winds were light and the sea smooth, the Mississippi succeeded, with the use of the two after boilers, in steaming seven knots the hour, but when the south-east trades fairly set in, accompanied as they were by a head sea, the speed was diminished to four and a half or five knots. The use of two additional boilers, however, soon brought the ship up to seven, with a daily consumption of twenty-six tons of coal. The north-east trades having ceased at a point much further north than usual, and the south-east winds having also set in at a correspondingly early period, the Commodore changed his intention of pro- ceeding directly to the Cape of Good Hope, and de- termined to touch at St. Helena, in order to procure an additional supply of coal. On Monday, January 3d, 1853, the ship crossed the equator in longitude 11° 01' west, and from that time to the 7th of January, had a moderately fresh breeze directly ahead. The effect of this wind was to render the officers' quarters, and in fact all the after part of the ship, very uncomfortable, as the heat and smoke were driven directly aft. The breeze, though directly ahead, did not lessen the speed of the vessel; for in a steamer, opposing winds do not so much affect its movement as the swells which often accompany them. In fact, a steamer will often go faster against a moderately fresh breeze, provided the sea be smooth, for the opposing wind freshens the draught of the fur- naces. ST. HELENA. 11 After crossing the equator, a current of about one and a half mile per hour was observed setting in the direction of the wind north 30° west. These currents will generally be found setting from the land in the direction of the prevailing winds. There are other currents, however, than the surface ones produced by the winds. These are caused by a difference in the specific gravity of the sea-water at various places and depths. When two fluids on the same level differ in density, the one will not balance the other, but both must move. This motion necessarily produces a current. While passing through the equatorial latitudes, the zodiacal lights were observed to glow with great brilliancy, and their phenomena were studiously noted for future investigation. At noon on the 10th of January, the Mississippi arrived at Jamestown, on the Island of St. Helena. St. Helena was discovered in 1502 by the Portu- guese. It was afterward taken possession of by the Dutch, who, in 1651, abandoned it for the Cape of Good Hope. The English East India Company then became possessed of the island, and it was used as a stopping place for their ships between England and In- dia. The Dutch regained possession of it in 1772, but it was again recovered by the East India Company the following year, who held it until 1833, when it was transferred to the British Crown. In the distance, St. Helena appears like a pile of barren rocks, rising from the ocean in the form of a pyramid. The base of the island is basalt; and lava and scoria, the results of volcanic action, are seen 12 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. scattered about its surface. On a nearer approach, the island is found to be surrounded by ragged and almost perpendicular cliffs from six to twelve hun- dred feet in height. These are broken, here and there, by chasms which open to the sea-shore, and recede inland in the form of narrow valleys winding up the table land above. In the centre of the island is Diana's peak, an elevation which reaches a height of 2,693 feet above the sea level. A calcareous ridge runs across the island from east to west, and divides it into two unequal parts, the larger and more fertile part of which is on the north side, where are found Jamestown, Longwood, the Briars, and the governor's ROBERTMS The Briers of St. Helena. summer residence, known as the Plantation House. The whole circumference of the island is about twen- ty-eight miles. Jamestown, which is the only port and town of LONGWOOD. 13 St. Helena, with the small population of twenty-five hundred, lies at the opening of James' Valley towards the sea. It is built on both sides of a well-paved street, which runs nearly a mile up the valley. A strong water battery commands the bay Ascending James' Valley, the traveller reaches the plain or table land of Longwood, which consists of fifteen hundred acres of good land, with an eleva- tion of 2,000 feet above the sea, that slopes gently to- wards the southeast. Though the island looks so barren from the sea, yet the interior is covered with a rich verdure, and is watered by numerous springs, which irrigate a very fertile soil. The fruits and flowers of Europe and Asia are successfully culti- vated, while horned cattle, sheep and goats thrive on the rich pastures. Barley, oats, Indian corn, and most of the common vegetables are readily produced; and fresh beef, mutton, poultry, and abundance of fish, may at all times be procured. The climate is one of the most healthful under the tropics. At Plantation House, the thermometer ranges from 61° to 73° within doors, and sometimes, between June and September, falls to 52° in the open air. At Longwood the thermometer is generally a little lower, and at Jamestown somewhat higher, than it is at Plan- tation House. The summer rains fall in January or February, and the winter rains in July or August. The East India Company, while in possession of St. Helena, constructed excellent roads, which are kept in admirable order by the present government. These are inclined planes adapted as well for wheel carriages and artillery, as for horses and foot passen- 14 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. gers. As the traveller rides on these excellent roads through the island, he cannot fail to be struck with the picturesque contrast between the cultivated fields, kept constantly green by the rains which fall in light showers from the clouds driven over the island by the south-east trades, and the barren cliffs of the hills which shelter the valleys. The rains, however, are not always gentle showers; for during the winter months, they occasionally fall in such torrents as to flood the cultivated grounds, and render the roads impassable. St. Helena has charms of natural scenery, and re- sources of comfort and enjoyment, which are calcu- lated to make it an agreeable residence. Associated, however, as it ever will be, with the captivity of Na- poleon, it must be always regarded by the world as the saddest of prisons. To the conqueror of states and ruler of nations, the island was but a rock in the sea, and its area of twenty-five miles but the narrow space of a dungeon. The chief interest of St. Helena belongs to the memory of the great captive, and the first impulse of the traveller is to visit his dwelling in life, the house at Longwood, as well as the tomb where his body was laid in death. Longwood and its surrounding proper- ty have been let by the government to a farmer, who has allowed the buildings to fall to decay, and appro- priated the apartments of the emperor to the stabling of his cattle. The security of Napoleon at St. Helena appears sufficiently obvious, from a view of the natu ral and artificial defences of his prison. Surrounded as was the island by forts and armed cruisers, and the NAPOLEON'S PRISON. 15 prescribed limits by successive lines of sentinels, with a regiment encamped within musket shot of the dwell- ing, and every avenue to it closely guarded by pickets of soldiers, and with the cliffs which bound the grounds towards the sea perfectly inaccessible, it is quite clear at a glance, that there was no chance of escape. With these safeguards, the whole world is now agreed, and England with the rest, that that personal supervision, so rudely intrusive and pertinacious, of Sir Hudson Lowe, was not necessary, as it certainly was not mag- nanimous. The tomb of Napoleon has lost much of its interest for the traveller, since the removal of his remains to France in 1840. The inhabitants of St. Helena seem to be indus- trious; but the general opinion of the officers of the Mississippi, founded on their experience, was, that in their rambles over the world, they had never met with more polite and unscrupulous extortioners. It is said to be the practice of the people to invite stran· gers with great urgency and seeming hospitality to their houses, and then to make them pay most un- mercifully for the entertainment. This may be a slander; but an incident occurred while the Missis- sippi was at Jamestown, which leaves no doubt that favors are sometimes done with the expectation of re- ceiving a consideration. One of the lieutenants be- came thus a victim of civility. He had engaged a horse at a livery stable for a ride to Longwood, which he found all saddled and bridled in readiness for him, as soon as he came ashore. He was about mounting, when a citizen of Jamestown, whom he had casually met the day before, stepped up with the most friend- 16 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. ly air in the world, and told him that he had a much better animal in his stable, which was entirely at his service, and that he would send for it at once. The lieutenant, after politely protesting against the trouble he was giving his Jamestown friend, consented to avail himself of his polite offer, and dismissing the hired horse, with a fee to the groom, awaited the arrival of the boasted steed. On its being led up, our lieutenant was not very much impressed by the ex- cellence of its points, but extending the principle, that a gift horse was not to be looked into the mouth, to an animal that was lent, he did not care to be very minute in his criticism. The lieutenant accord- ingly mounted and took his ride, finding, in the course of it, that there was no occasion to inspect par ticularly the horse's mouth; for it was quite clear, from any point of view, that the animal was but a sorry nag, and very inferior to the hack of the livery stable. The lieutenant could say nothing in favor of the horse, it is true, but he could not deny the gene- rosity of the owner in lending it to him, poor as it was. On returning home, rather dissatisfied, it must be confessed, with the nag, but very friendly disposed towards its proprietor, the lieutenant sent back the animal to its owner, with a profusion of thanks for his politeness. In the evening the fortunate possessor of the James- town Rosinante visited the ship, and called upon his friend the lieutenant. This officer received him with great warmth, and reiterated his thanks for the loan of the horse, and pressed upon him various offerings in the shape of bundles of cigars and bottles of wine, AN EXPENSIVE ACQUAINTANCE. 17 that he might be quits with one who was compara- tively a stranger. The gifts were received in such a manner that the lieutenant began to suspect that his Jamestown friend was not quite satisfied, and he ac- cordingly hinted that perhaps some compensation might be expected for the use of the horse. The Jamestown gentleman hemmed and coughed and did not offer any objection. The lieutenant was now em- boldened to ask, "Will you allow me to pay for the use of your horse this morning?" To which he re- ceived the reply, "Well, I am glad you were pleased with the animal, and you need only pay me the usual charge of three dollars." The amount was imme- diately paid to him, when he coolly offered his ser- vices for any future time that they might be required, and said, with a peculiarly knowing look, "If, when you again visit the island, you will place yourself un- der my guidance, I will put you through all charges at half price." The Jamestown gentleman now po- litely taking his farewell, and wishing a good voyage to all on board, passed into his boat alongside with the neck of a wine-bottle protruding from one pocket and a liberal supply of cigars filling out the other, the offerings of his grateful friend, the lieutenant. At the time of Napoleon's residence, St. Helena was so strongly fortified and fully garrisoned that it was deemed impregnable. This was, however, pre- vious to the use of armed steamers. It would seem to be less protected against this new and formidable arm of naval warfare. When the island was fortified, the skill of the engineer accomplished all that was requi site in the existing condition of things. The island 18 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. would prove, doubtless, impregnable to a force ap- proaching by sailing vessels, but against the motive power of steam, which acts independently of wind or tide, new provisions for defence would be probably required. The Mississippi having taken in a supply of coal, water, and fresh provisions, weighed anchor on the evening of the second day after her arrival (Tuesday, January 11th), and took her departure from James- town. After leaving St. Helena the ship was put on her course for the Cape of Good Hope. The Commo- dore had touched at the island from motives of pru- dence only, that he might have a plentiful supply of fuel. The best route for a steamer going from Ma- deira to the Cape would seem to be, to steer from the Cape de Verd Islands direct towards Cape Palmas on the coast of Africa, and thence to trace the shore down to Good Hope. On leaving Jamestown the steamer encountered the trade-wind, deviating very little from the south- east, and blowing alternately moderate and fresh. It was always stronger at night, when it brought with it a short head sea, which greatly retarded the progress of the vessel. Additional speed might have been ob- tained by an increase of steam power, but it was found necessary to use the coal sparingly. At nine in the morning (January 24), the land in the neighborhood of Saldanha Bay was made, and in the afternoon a view was obtained of Table Mountain. In the evening of the same day the ship came to anchor in Table Bay, at the Cape of Good Hope, in seven fathoms of water, but next morning moved CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. further in toward the town. 19 The port was found easy of access by following the established sailing di- rections, and thus avoiding certain well-known rocks and other dangers threatening the navigator. The Cape of Good Hope was first discovered by Bartholomew Diaz, a Portuguese, in 1493. During an exploration of the Atlantic coast of Africa, this navigator was driven out to sea by a storm, and the first land he made, after the gale was over, was Al- goa Bay. He had thus doubled the Cape without his knowledge. Diaz gave the name of Cabo Tormen- toso, the Spanish words for the Cape of Storms, to the Cape, which was afterwards changed to that of Good Hope by the King of Portugal, as he rightly thought the discovery promised a favorable result to the great prospect entertained by the Portuguese navigators of reaching India by sea. In 1497, Vasco de Gama, another Portuguese sailor, doubled the Cape on his voyage to the Eastern seas. * Cape of Good Поре. The Cape of Good Hope forms the southern end of a narrow peninsula, about thirty miles in length, 20 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. which has the Atlantic Ocean on the west, False Bay on the east, and Table Bay on the north. Cape Town is situated on Table Bay, and was originally founded by the Dutch in 1650, but fell into the hands of the English in 1795. It was restored to its original European possessors after the peace of Amiens, but was finally retaken by the British in 1806, in whose possession it now remains. The town is well built with substantial houses of stone and brick, and wide, regular streets. The gene- ral aspect of the place, with its handsome public build- ings, private residences, and park, in the neighbor- hood of the government house, shaded by oaks of magnificent growth, is exceedingly agreeable. The heat, however, in consequence of the posi- tion of the town, which is faced by the noonday sun and walled in behind by naked mountains, is exces- sive. This, added to the dust, caused those who went. on shore to keep much within doors, and the officers accordingly found Cape Town a dull and stupid place. The streets are unpaved, so that when the south-east gales which prevail in midsummer blow, the dust is raised in clouds, and deposited in drifts of sand along the sidewalks several inches in depth. This keeps the street-sweepers constantly busy, who may be seen continually at work, collecting the sand together in heaps to be carried away by the dirt-carts. So uni- versal is this nuisance felt to be, that the male as well as the female inhabitants of all classes are in the habit of wearing veils attached to their hats. The south-eastern gales, which prove such an an- noyance in raising the dust, make their approach by THRIVING TOWN. 21 the appearance of a dense white cloud, which settles upon the summit of Table Mountain, therefore called the table-cloth, and remains there until the winds sub- side. These blow at times with great violence, sweep- ing along the land east of Table Mountain. If it were not for the perfect smoothness of the water in the bay, vessels would not be able to hold to their anchors during these south-easterly gales, two of which were experienced in the course of a week while the Mississippi was lying off Cape Town. Such is the severity of these winds, that all business in the harbor is suspended during their height. The town seemed to be in a highly prosperous con- dition, as business of all kinds looked flourishing, and there was every indication of wealth on the part of the inhabitants, particularly the government officials. Handsome equipages are constantly seen in the streets, and even the lowest classes of the people are hardly known to suffer from want. The high rents in the town would seem to prove the prosperous con- dition of trade. The Cape of Good Hope is of great commercial importance to Great Britain as a convenient rendez- vous for her cruisers stationed in the neighborhood, and as a stopping-place for vessels bound to and from the Indian Ocean. Excellent water, fresh provisions, fruit, and other necessaries can be obtained in any quantity and at reasonable prices. Wood, however, is scarce, but almost every other article usually needed by vessels may be procured from the numerous well stocked shops and warehouses at Cape Town. Since the abolition of slavery in the British colo- 22 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. nies, the agricultural interests of the Cape have suf- fered, and although the commerce of some few of the ports continues thriving, the interior of the country has declined in prosperity, there being at present but few examples of successful farming in consequence of the scarcity of laborers. The country has also suffered from the effects of the war carried on between the British colonists and the Caffres, which, although it has enriched the merchants and tradesmen by the large expenditure of public money, has impoverished the farmers by depriving them of the necessary la- borers and by unsettling the general tranquillity. The consequence has been that many of the farms have been allowed to run to waste, and although the soil is capable of producing Indian corn, wheat, barley, oats, and several other descriptions of grain, the home consumption of such articles is not fully supplied. There are, however, some wine, hides, tallow, and wool exported. The farming is chiefly of a grazing character, and vast herds of cattle, sheep, horses, and mules are raised. At Cape Town horses can be bought for thirty to one hundred and fifty, and mules for thirty to seventy-five dollars. The cattle which are indige- nous to the country somewhat resemble the buffalo in appearance, and the sheep are of the broad-tailed species, which are highly prized for the excellence of the meat. The long teams of oxen passing in and out of the city are characteristic objects at Cape Town. These teams are composed often of seven, eight, or even nine yoke, and are guided by two teamsters, one seated in front of the wagon, not unlike what is used in Pennsylvania, where he urges the animals along CONSTANTIA WINE. 23 by his voice and a long whip, while the other man precedes the team, holding a halter fastened to the horns of the two leaders, with which he guides them. When the journey is a long one, the teamsters gen- erally accompany the oxen on horseback. The Commodore, accompanied by some of his offi- cers, took occasion to visit one of the celebrated vine- yards of Constantia, having provided himself with an open carriage drawn by four beautiful stallions, and driven four in hand by a negro boy, who proved him- self a very skilful Jehu. The drive was through a pic- turesque country, with pretty villas scattered about, which were approached by wide avenues bordered by oaks and firs. These trees are raised from the seed, and are generally cultivated in the colony for fuel and ornamental purposes. Substantial hedges are also formed of the young oak raised from the acorn. The Constantia vineyard was of no great extent, and the culture was of a character that was somewhat disappointing. The proprietor accounted for the in- ferior condition of his vineyard on the score of his being unable to provide himself with the necessary number of laborers. He said, in fact, that he would have been obliged to abandon the cultivation of the grape altogether had he not obtained an American "cultivator," that he had recently imported from the United States, which simple plough, as he stated, drawn by a single horse, accomplished as much as the labor of fifty men according to the usual method of cultivating the vine with a hoe. The grape is grown at Constantia, as in Sicily, by trimming the vine near to the ground, and not allow- ing it to reach a height beyond that of a gooseberry 24 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. bush. The richness of flavor of the wine, which is much extolled, is supposed to be dependent upon the condi- tion of the grape when it goes to the press. Although it begins to ripen in the early part of February, it is not gathered until the middle of March, when the fruit has assumed almost the appearance of the dry raisin, in which condition it is pressed. The prices of Constantia wine vary from two to six dollars a gal- lon, according to its quality. The population of Cape Colony, according to a census taken in 1848, was 200,548. Of these, 76,287 whites, and 101,176 colored, make up the whole num- ber of inhabitants of the various parts of the colony with the exception of Cape Town, which contains a mixed population of 22,543. There are but few of the aboriginal Hottentots of pure race to be found, as their blood has been intermingled with that of the Dutch, the Negro and the Malay. NATIVE TRIBES. 25 The first European discoverer of the southern pro- montory of Africa found it tolerably well peopled, and the natives, in some respects, in a better condition than many of the more northern tribes. They were in pos- session of herds of cattle and flocks of sheep, and led a pastoral life. They were a comparatively happy peo- ple, and, being divided into tribes under a patriarchal government, wandered about with their flocks and herds from pasture to pasture, carrying their huts, con- structed of boughs and poles, upon the backs of oxen. These tribes, however, have been mostly exterminated by the cruelty of the Europeans. A wretched rem- nant, however, still survive, and living as miserable outcasts in the forests and the fastnesses of the desert, are known as Bushmen. They are still savage in character, and disgusting in their habits and persons. They have received, it must be confessed, but little benefit from the boasted civilization of their white conquerors. "We however, as Americans," remarks Commodore Perry, "have no right to rail at other nations for the wrongs they have inflicted upon the aborigines of countries seized upon by them; for, though hardly equal to the English in the disgusting hypocrisy with which they excuse their acts, we are not far behind them in the frauds and cruelties com- mitted upon our native tribes." The warlike Caffres still retain their characteristic wildness, and pursue their predatory life. They are in many respects superior to the ordinary African, and have some of the peculiarities of the Egyptian races. They are of a greater height and strength than the inferior negro; their color is lighter, and 2 26 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. though their hair is black and woolly, they have fuller beards. Their noses are more prominent, but they have the thick negro lip, and with the prominent cheek-bone of the Hottentots, they possess the high European forehead. • * Caffre Chief. The Fingoes, though traced in origin to some scat- tered tribes of the Caffres, differ from them in some degree, and although spirited and brave, are of a less savage nature, and have the character of being a comparatively good-natured people. The Fingoes, A FINGO IN PRISON. 27 like the Caffres, are pastoral, but more given to the culture of the land, in which the men engage as well Fingo Woman. as the women, although this kind of labor is confined among the Caffres to the females alone. On the return of the Commodore from Constantia, he stopped to pay a visit to a captive Fingo chief and his wife, whom the fortune of war had thrown into the hands of the Europeans. The chief was confined in a jail at a short distance from the town. The jailer unhesitatingly allowed the Commodore to visit his prisoner. Soyola, for that was his name, was a re- markably fine-looking negro, of about twenty-five EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 28 years of age. He had been accompanied to imprison- ment by his favorite among his numerous wives, and African Chief, Soyola. his confidential lieutenant, who had also a similar companion to cheer his captivity. The women were no less remarkable for their good looks than their ne- gro lords and masters. One of the artists of the Ex- pedition was admitted to a subsequent interview with the distinguished party of Fingoes, and secured like- nesses of them. The war carried on by the English with the Hot- tentots and Caffres, which has continued so long, cost- ing an immense amount of blood and treasure, is still THE HOTTENTOT WAR. 29 prolonged by the obstinacy of the blacks. The whole frontier has already been devastated, and although there is some hope of peace, no one believes that any treaty that may be made will be respected by the negroes longer than may suit their convenience. Wife of Soyola. In the last battle, at the date of the visit of Com- modore Perry, in which the English forces, headed by General Cathcart himself, were victorious, it was said that the Caffre chief brought into action six thousand foot and two thousand horse. These numbers are pro- bably exaggerated, but it is well known that the negroes have acquired a tolerable organization, and that they are well supplied with arms and ammunition. They 30 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. have hitherto had an abundance of provisions, ob- tained from their own herds or from those stolen from the whites, but report says that, owing to the careless- ness and waste always attendant upon the irregular warfare of savages, their supply of food is running short. The English declare that the Caffres have been instructed in the art of war by numerous desert- ers from the British army, and by a French mission- ary living among them who passed his early life in the army. The principal white inhabitants of Cape Town are the government officials, army officers, merchants and tradesmen. The laboring class is composed of the mixed races-the Malays, Coolies, and negroes. The eman- cipated negroes and their descendants are very much, in character and condition, like the free blacks in the United States, though by no means as intelligent and good-looking. They are perfectly independent of all restraint as long as they do not violate the laws. They work when it suits them and at their own prices, and break off abruptly from their labor if spoken to in a manner which wounds in the least their sensitiveness. Their ordinary charge for work is a dollar and a quar- ter for a day of ten hours. The Mississippi having taken on board a supply of coal and a good quantity of sheep and bullocks, and the water-tanks having been filled, left Table Bay at eleven o'clock on the morning of the third of Feb- ruary. On getting fairly out of the harbor, the wind was found to be blowing strong from the westward, with a heavy swell setting in from that quarter. In seven hours after leaving Table Bay the steamer was PASSAGE FROM THE CAPE. 31 off the pitch of the Cape. From thence, leaving Cape Hanglip full in sight, her course was directed south- east in order to reach the parallel of thirty-seven de- grees of latitude. This was done to avoid the south- east gales which prevail near the Cape, causing a strong current to the northward and westward, and to meet the variables which are found south of the bor- der of the south-east trades. For the first three days after leaving the Cape, the wind blew from the north-west to the south-west un- til the steamer reached the latitude of 36° 16' S. and longitude of 23° 40′ E., when it changed to the north- ward and eastward, rather north, and so remained to the latitude of 35° 06′ and longitude 44° 03'. At this point the wind hauled gradually to the southward, allowing the course of the ship to be inclined more to the north, until the south-east trades were met. The Commodore fearing that the wind might back again to the eastward, was careful not to make too much. northing, lest he might fall to the leeward of Mauritius and thus lose the benefit of a fair wind. From the 11th to the 14th of February the wind continued from the southward and eastward, and at the latter date the ship reached latitude 29° 34' and longitude 55° 22′, from which to her arrival, on the 18th (February), at the Mauritius, the wind hung to the northward and eastward, the trades having entirely failed to blow. The Mississippi, in doubling the Cape of Good Hope in midsummer, escaped any very heavy blow, although hardly a week passes without a gale from some quarter. The weather throughout was generally 32 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. fine, and nothing was observed of a remarkable char- acter in a meteorological point of view. The barom- eter varied from 29° 80' to 29° 95', and the thermom- eter from 74° to 84°. The former instrument gave due notice of all the various changes of weather, and proved of great utility. There is a peculiarity in the action of the barometer in the neighborhood of the Cape and in that part of the route across the Indian Ocean as far as the Equator. In the vicinity of the Cape Bank, and in most part of the southern hemisphere, the mercury rises with northerly and falls with south- erly winds; these latter, coming from a warmer atmos- phere, are much rarefied, and act with diminished pressure upon the barometer, which accordingly falls, while the former, proceeding from the frozen regions near the pole, are more dense, and cause the mercury to rise. The current during the passage ran at about three-quarters of a knot per hour, setting with the wind. The Mississippi spoke the English war steamer, the Styx, thirteen days from Simon's Bay, bound to Mauritius. She was under sail, her engine having been disconnected, and the wheels with all their buck- ets, allowed to revolve by the movement of the vessel through the water. She made tolerable way, but drifted much to leeward. The English war steam- ers frequently, by a simple arrangement, disconnect their engines for the purpose of saving fuel. The process of connecting and disconnecting is accom- plished in a few minutes. In American naval steam- ers it is almost impossible to disconnect the engines, and the only practicable mode of using the sails THE STYX SPOKEN. 33 exclusively is by the removal of the immersed floats. This requires moderate weather for its ac- complishment and a delay of two hours, while double that time is necessary for the readjustment of the buckets. 2* CHAPTER II. THE island of Mauritius was first seen from the deck, bearing N. N. E., at half-past nine o'clock on the morning of the 18th February. At noon the steamer was nearly abreast of Cape Brabant, having passed in sight of Grand Port, the scene of the memorable ac- tion in August, 1810, between an English squadron under the command of Captains Pyne and Willough- by, and a French force, under Commodore Duperrie. In this engagement the English were worsted, having lost nearly all their vessels. The battle was fought within the coral shoals, which form the harbor of Grand Port, the batteries on shore taking part in the action, which was prolonged several days. Early in the evening, the pilot having boarded the Mississippi near the mouth of the harbor, anchored and secured her for the night at the outer, which are termed the Admiral's, moorings. Next morning the pilot returned to the ship, bringing with him several launches manned by natives of Malabar, who, with the assistance of the crew of the Mississippi, com- pleted her moorings, which was a process requiring a great deal of time and labor. All vessels entering ARRIVAL AT MAURITIUS. 35 the harbor of Port Louis, as it is called, are secured by frigate's chains attached to mooring anchors, and brought on board, one at each bow, and one at each quarter. This operation is entirely under the direc- tion of the pilots, who, with their launches, warps, and numerous hands, are constantly busy in mooring and unmooring the various vessels as they enter or leave the harbor. They are moored head and stern, with their bows to the south-east, the direction from which the hurricanes usually come. As these generally blow directly out of the harbor, they are accompanied by very little sea; such however is often the violence. of the wind, that the strong moorings give way, and the most destructive results ensue, the vessels being dashed against each other, and the shore strewn with wrecks. It is rarely that these gales blow into the harbor; but when they do, a tremendous sea is thrown into the little port, and the strongest moored and best found vessels can hardly escape disaster. Mascarenhas, a Portuguese commander, discovered Mauritius, with its neighboring island of Bourbon, in 1505, and the whole group was then named the Mas- carenhas islands. The Portuguese took formal pos- session of them in 1545, but appear to have formed no settlement. In 1598 the Dutch surveyed Mau- ritius, and gave it that name in honor of Maurice, the stadtholder of the Netherlands. They, however, did not settle the island until after they had formed an establishment at the Cape in 1640, and then they fixed themselves on the shore at Port Grand. 1708, from causes now unknown, they abandoned the island, and from that time to 1715, its only inhabi- In 36 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. tants were a few negroes, brought there by the Dutch as slaves, and who having escaped from their masters, hid themselves in the mountain fastnesses. In 1715, the French took possession, and formed a settlement at Port St. Louis, giving the island the name of the Isle of France. They kept undisturbed possession until 1810, when it was taken from them by the Brit- ish, to whom it was ceded at the peace of 1814. The island is of volcanic structure, and is sur rounded by a coral reef which generally runs parallel to the shore at a short distance from it, and is mostly left dry at low water. There are eleven breaks in } this reef, through which vessels of considerable burden may pass. The interior of the island consists of a large number of lofty hills, which are mostly isolated, though occasionally united in small chains. The Brabant moun- tains and the Bambo ridges are the most elevated, which rise to three thousand feet above the sea level. THE RAINS. 37 The soil of the island is generally thin, and not very productive, in consequence of the prevalent dry- ness. It is true, there are rains; and even in June, July and August, the showers are frequent, but of short duration. The rainy season, however, is from November to March or April, when the water de- scends in torrents, accompanied by heavy gusts of wind, and not unfrequently with severe thunder and lightning. The average fall of rain throughout the year would appear, from observation, to be about thirty-eight inches. The island is traversed by nu- merous water-courses which diverge in all directions from the centre; these, however, as the water evapo- rates rapidly in dry weather, are only running in the rainy season, when they form numerous cascades and cataracts. The Mauritius is subject to hurricanes as violent as any in the West Indies; but they do not seem to be at all regular in their occurrence; although five years rarely elapse without their appearance. The island was once well wooded, and some por- tions of the native forest still remain. The cocoa-nut, palm and sago are common, as well as the tamarind, mango and bamboo. Yams, cassava, Indian corn, bananas, and melons are cultivated with some of our vegetables, as spinach, asparagus, artichokes, cabbage, and peas. Small quantities of rice and wheat are also raised. Of the fruits, there are excellent mangoes, shaddocks and pine-apples.; but the oranges, grapes, peaches, and apples are inferior. The French intro- duced the spice trees of the Indian islands; none, however, succeeded, but the clove. The chief article cultivated since the British ob- 38 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. tained possession, is sugar. The sugar-cane is planted in the usual manner, though the fields present one peculiarity. The surface of the ground, in its origi- nal state, was covered with loose rocks and stones, which have been arranged in parallel ridges about three or four feet apart, between which the cane is planted. The planters think that these ridges are of advantage, since they are believed to retard the growth of weeds, shade and protect the young cane. from violent winds, and retain moisture about the roots of the young plants. The introduction of guano is reported to have had a wonderful effect in increasing the fertility of the land. In 1812, the sugar crop only amounted to 969,260 French pounds; while in 1852, it was estimated at 140,000,000. Only about three-eighths of the island are said to be under cultivation, and the attention of the agriculturist is almost entirely confined to the production of sugar, although the soil is adapted to cotton and tobacco. The chief labor of the island is performed by the Coolies. The free negroes, since the act of the Brit- ish emancipation of slavery, have been generally in- disposed to work, and the planters have been forced to rely on imported laborers, who are chiefly brought from the coasts of Malabar. The Coolies are to be seen in large numbers on the sugar plantations, where they receive from two to three dollars a month, in addition to house rent and provisions. The muni- cipal regulations for their protection are very strict, and the laborers presume somewhat on the indul- gence with which they are treated by the govern- FRENCH AND ENGLISH. 39 ment; they are tolerated in the exercise of a much larger liberty than is usually enjoyed by laboring men either in England or the United States. The planter, however, is acknowledged to make large pro- fits from their labor. The population of the whole island is 180,000, of which nearly one hundred thousand are negroes from Madagascar and the eastern coast of Africa, who were once slaves. There are also a mixed throng of Ma- lays, fishermen from Malabar, Lascars and Chinese. The whites amount in number to only about nine or ten thousand, the greater portion of which are Creoles of French origin, who pertinaciously cling to their native language and habits. They still regard with jealousy the English, who in their turn repay them with a certain degree of haughtiness and reserve. The Commodore and his officers, however, found an equally warm welcome from both English and French, and were entertained with the most generous hospitality. The Englishman, perhaps, was a little more stately in his manner, and the Frenchman a little less ceremonious; though nothing could be kinder than the treatment of both. Port Louis, the capital of the island, is situated near its north-western extremity, in a small bay, which is but a narrow inlet somewhat more than a mile long, and about five hundred yards broad. The town is built at the extreme south-western corner. The streets are straight and unpaved, the principal one of which runs parallel to the shore of the bay. The houses are of but one story, and are built chiefly of wood. The inhabitants of Port Louis are, in num- 40 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. ber, about twenty-five to thirty thousand, of whom four or five thousand are white, and the remainder for the most part black. Grand Port, on the south-eastern side of the island, is tolerably capacious and is more convenient for ship- ping the sugar, of which large quantities are raised in the neighborhood. This port, however, has the dis- advantage of an intricate entrance and an exposure to the south-east, from which the hurricanes blow with the greatest fury. The popular story of Paul and Virginia was sug- gested by an occurrence on the coast of Mauritius, which took place while St. Pierre, the author, was an officer of the garrison. On the night of the 18th of August, 1774, the French ship St. Gévan was wrecked on the north-eastern coast of the island. On board the ship were two young ladies, of the names of Mallet and Caillon, who were returning home, after having completed their education in France. They, together with most of the crew and passengers, were lost. Mademoiselle Caillon was last seen upon the top- gallant forecastle of the ship, by the side of a fellow- passenger, Monsieur Longchamps de Montendre, who was urging her to trust herself to his efforts to save her life. For this purpose it would have been neces- sary that she should have disencumbered herself of a portion of her clothing, which from a sense of modesty she could not be prevailed upon to do, and preferred to remain on the ship. Montendre now left her, and after lowering himself down the ship's side ready to throw himself into the sea, paused with a thought for Made- moiselle Caillon, of whom he is said to have been the PAUL AND VIRGINIA. 41 lover, and resolved to make another effort to save her. He was soon again by her side earnestly entreating the girl, for her own and his sake, to trust herself to his care, and make with him a last effort to save their lives. She, however, refused, and Montendre then determined not to leave her again, and they both went down for ever with the wreck. Mademoiselle Mallet, the other young lady, remained on the quarter-deck with a young Frenchman, Monsieur de Peramont, by her side, and the two were also lost. These incidents thus simply related in the deposi- tion of one of the survivors before the authorities, are said to have been the basis of St. Pierre's world-re- nowned story, which the author has so heightened by romance and so commended by his pathetic narrative to universal sympathy, that few stories are better known or more generally liked. The romantic visitor to the Mauritius is naturally reminded of its associa- tion with the romance of Paul and Virginia, and if not satisfied with a general view of the tropical scenery and localities so charmingly described in that work, he may be desirous, perhaps, of paying his reverence to the tombs of its hero and heroine, if the matter-of- fact suggestion that as they never lived they would hardly have required a burial place, does not destroy his illusion. An eccentric Frenchman has, in fact, in order that romantic visitors might not be cheated out of their sentiment, raised in his garden two monuments to the memory of the fictitious Paul and Virginia. The original proprietor is long since dead, but his grounds, some eight miles from Port Louis, are open for in- spection, and the visitor can show his respect for the 42 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. memory of Paul and Virginia, and satisfy his senti- ment by a view of their monuments, if he does not object to pay the usual shilling for admission. The officers of the Expedition visited the tombs, and were unpleasantly reminded of British dominion by the offensive practice of demanding the stranger's pence at every gate on English territory. They did not forget that they had been victims of the same unhandsome custom at the entrance to Longwood and the empty tomb of Napoleon at St. Helena, and could not but think it very dishonoring to the nation that permitted it. So much was said at the Mauritius of the hurri- canes or cyclones common to that part of the Indian Ocean, that the Commodore hardly entertained the hope of escaping one. These hurricanes, which so often bring with them desolation and ruin to the merchant and planter, are topics of anxious interest during the usual season, from December to April, of their occur- rence. The barometer is watched eagerly for the least indication of their approach, and all the usual pheno- mena which precede them are carefully observed. There is no study to which the inhabitants of the Mauritius have so thoroughly devoted themselves as to the philosophy of these storms, in which they are great experts. The cyclones never extend to the northward of 10° or 12° south latitude in the meridian of Mauri- tius. Vessels therefore leaving this island in the hur- ricane season, should steer to the northward, taking care to pass to the westward of the Cargados, a dan- gerous group of rocks. Having taken on board five hundred tons of coal, POINT DE GALLE. 43 a timely supply of which had just arrived in two ships from the United States, and the other necessary sup- plies, the Mississippi left Port Louis on the morning of the 28th of February. The Commodore now di- rected his course for Point de Galle, having, by the advice of several experienced seamen, taken the more circuitous route, and passed to the westward of the Çargados and between the island Galega and the Laya de Mahla bank; thence, after doubling the northern extremity of the bank, the ship was steered to the eastward for Pona Moluque, the southernmost of the Maldives. From this point the course was di- rect for Point de Galle, in Ceylon, where the light was made on the evening of the 10th of March, after a passage of thirteen days. The port of Point de Galle is the general rendez- vous of the English mail steamers, not only of those which ply to and from the Red Sea, but of those which double the Cape of Good Hope, bound to India or the China seas. Although large quantities of coal are brought there for the service of these steamers, the consumption is so great that they are loth to spare any to strangers, however great their need. The Mis- sissippi could only succeed in obtaining a small sup- ply from the Bengal government, as the Steam Navi- gation Company had given positive orders not to give a ton to any foreign vessel of war. The town of Galle is situated upon a peninsula, the inner curve of which forms the harbor. Thick walls of considerable height enclose the town within a space of about fifteen acres. The inhabitants are thus shut up within a close fortress, from which the 44 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. sea breezes are almost entirely excluded, and must suffer very much from the heat, which cannot be otherwise than excessive, in a latitude almost under the equator. The heat, however, is not so intense as on the neighboring coast of India. During the stay of the Mississippi the highest range of the thermome- ter (Farenheit) was 85°, and the lowest 82°. The ordinary range at Point de Galle, however, is set down at from 70° to 87°. Fresh supplies of food of almost every description can be readily obtained at this port; bullocks, pigs, fruit, and vegetables abound. The fish are abundant and good. Wood is plentiful and tolerably good. Water can be obtained in reasonable quantities, but it is bad. The population of the town is composed of Eng- lish officials and merchants, and a motley collection of tradesmen and laborers, of all varieties of color, from negro black to dingy brown. Trincomalee and the sea-coast of Ceylon were seized by the British in 1796, after having been. held successively by the Portuguese, Dutch, and French, and the whole island was taken possession of at the invitation of the natives, as English history re- cords, by the British crown in 1815, under the sover- eignty of which Ceylon still remains. In olden time, as we learn from the authors of antiquity, for the island was known to Europe so early as the conquests of Alexander the Great, before its occupation by Europeans, Ceylon was one of the richest and most productive kingdoms of the East. The natives at a very early period showed CLIMATE OF CEYLON. 45 great skill in the development of the resources of the island, and increased the fertility of the soil by inge- nious modes of artificial irrigation; and numerous vestiges of imposing works, constructed for this pur- pose, remain to this day. The climate of Ceylon is very much influenced by the monsoons. The north-east prevails from Novem- ber to February, and the south-west from April to September; but there are certain local causes which influence these winds and modify their temperature. There is a great difference between the climate of the northern and southern portions of the island, and a curious effect hence results; for not seldom on one side of a mountain the rain is falling abundantly, while on the other it is so dry that the herbage is parched and withered; and thus, while the inhabi- tants of the former are doing their utmost to protect their lands from the flood, those of the latter are striving to obviate the consequences of the drought, by availing themselves of the scant reservoirs of wa- ter which may have been left from previous rains. The island is comparatively healthful, as is indi- cated by the rate of mortality, which, being less than three per cent., shows a remarkable salubrity for an eastern country. Ceylon did not appear as flourishing a colony as the Mauritius, though it possesses superior geo- graphical advantages. Lying, as a sort of outpost to the principal possessions of the English in the east, and offering, in its port of Galle, a point for the dis- tribution of intelligence throughout India and China, it is much resorted to. 46 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. The exports are limited in comparison with the acknowledged fertility of the island, to the productive power of which there would hardly seem to be any limit. Labor may be obtained for twelve cents a day, and yet the agricultural interests are not as promising, as, under such favorable circumstances, they should be. The natives, too, are said not to be wanting in industry, but their needs are so few, living, as they do, upon fish, rice, and cocoa-nuts, that they are never forced by necessity to labor hard for their subsistence. Of the productions of the island, the cocoa-nut is probably the most valuable to the natives. Every where in Ceylon, as far as the eye can reach, exten- sive plantations of this tree can be seen, and the nu- merous roads throughout the island are bordered with it. The weary and heated traveller finds not only protection from the sun in its shade, but refreshment from the milk of the fruit, which is both agreeable to the taste and wholesome. The cocoa-nut palm has a great variety of uses. The green fruit, with its deli- cate albuminous meat and its refreshing milk, is a favorite article of food. When ripe, the kernel of the nut is dried, forming what the natives term copperal, from which an oil of great value is expressed, while the residuum forms an excellent oil-cake for the fat- tening of animals. Even the husk of the nut is use- ful; its fibres are wrought into the coir rope, of which large quantities are annually exported, and the shells. are manufactured into various domestic utensils. From the sap of the tree a drink is obtained which is called "toddy," and made into arrack by distillation. MAGNIFICENT VEGETATION. 47 The leaves afford a good material for the thatching of the native huts, and are, moreover, given as food to elephants. The Palmyra palm, which also abounds in the island, shares with the cocoa-nut tree in many of its advantages. The other staples of Ceylon are cinnamon, coffee, sugar, rice, arica nut, precious stones, plumbago (probably the best in the world), and other vegetable and mineral productions. The pearl fisheries, for which the island was once famous, have very much diminished in their yield. The natives account for the diminution by declaring that the pearl-oyster has the power of locomotion, and has shifted its former quarters to some new ground not yet discovered. The scarcity is probably owing to the fact that the pearls have been disturbed before they have reached their full development, which is said to require a pe- riod of seven years. Ceylon abounds in a rich vegetation, and many trees of great utility, among which, in addition to the cocoa-nut and Palmyra palm, there is the kettal tree, from the sap of which is produced a coarse sugar, and from its fruit, when dried and reduced to powder, a substitute for rice flour. The talipot, with its im- mense foliage, is one of the wonders of the island; a single leaf of this tree is sufficient to cover beneath its shade several persons, and it supplies, when softened by boiling, a substitute for paper, upon which the na- tives are in the habit of writing, and find it a most dur- able material. The cinnamon, with its beautiful white blossom and its red tipped leaves, and other odorifer- ous trees, are among the native products of Ceylon; 48 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. but the stories of the fragrance of the aroma exhaled from these trees and the plants, which voyagers have described as sensible at a distance from the land, are gross exaggerations. No fragrance was observed equal to that of the magnolia or of the delightful per- fume of the newly-mown grass of our own country, or in any degree approaching the delicious odor of the heliotrope and geranium hedges of Madeira. The cultivated flowers that were seen at Ceylon and at Mauritius were, in fact, remarkable for their want of fragrance. Rich woods of various kinds, as the rose, the ebony, the satin, and lime, grow in abundance on the island, and are used for many purposes of utility and ornament. Marco Polo, the great traveller, vis- ited Ceylon, of which he has left a glowing descrip- tion, having been so much struck with its beauty and richness that, in his enthusiasm, he has termed it the finest island in the world. Within the forests and in the jungles of Ceylon are found a great variety of wild animals; the ele- phant, the hyena, tiger-cat, the bear, the deer, and the monkey, are among the most abundant. The number of elephants is incredibly great, and, issuing in troops from their lairs, they come crushing down the cultivated fields and plantations, and devouring the crops, with great loss to the proprietors. They are found in all the uncultivated parts of the island, but their favorite haunts are near the farms, to which they prove so destructive that the colonial govern- ment pays a reward of 7s. 6d. (about $1 85) for every tail of the animal which is brought to the authorities. Mr. Talbot, the government agent at Galle, stated ABUNDANCE OF ELEPHANTS. 49 that he had paid during the preceding year two hun- dred pounds sterling for tails, which would give six- hundred as the number of elephants destroyed. An army officer, as was stated to the Commodore, actually killed, during his residence on the island, no less than six hundred of these gigantic animals. Within a few months of the arrival of the Mississippi, two officers of the garrison destroyed no less than forty elephants in the course of a sporting visit of six weeks to the jungle. They are ordinarily shot with a rifle; the sportsman approaches his game in front, or perhaps, as the sailors would say, on the quarter, that he may aim at either of the only two vital parts upon which a rifle ball will have any effect, one being directly in the forehead, through which the brain is penetrated, and the other behind the ear. If the hunter chance to come up to his ele- phant in the rear, he raises a shout, by which the ani- mal is attracted, and, turning its head, or throwing forward its ears, exposes the vital spot, at which his ruthless enemy aims the deadly ball, and brings down his huge victim. The elephants of Ceylon are not so large as those of other parts of India, and but a small proportion of them have tusks. Of serpents, there are but twenty species, four only of which are venomous, the cobra and tic pro- lango being the most deadly. The latter is said to be endowed with great cunning, and to lie in wait for the purpose of attacking the passing traveller. The stories which are told of the anaconda, boa con- strictor or python, seizing upon cattle and horses, and even horsemen, must be taken as fabulous. There is, 3 50 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. however, a species of boa peculiar to the island, which is capable of swallowing a deer whole, and after it has indulged in venison to that degree, and become surfeited with so substantial a meal, it falls readily a prey to the captor. This is believed to be the extent of the powers of deglutition of the Cey- lon boas; those enormous serpents, which are said to swallow an entire ox, horns and all, being unknown in that region. The population of Ceylon is estimated at about 1,442,062, of whom 8,275 are whites, 1,413,486 colored persons, and 20,431 aliens and resident strangers. The inhabitants are composed of the natives, termed Cin- galese, of a small portion of Europeans, principally government officials, military officers, and merchants with their families, and of negroes, Malays, and Chi- nese. The Cingalese were less ugly in appearance than was expected, many of the men, in fact (as for the women, few were seen, and none of the better class), have expressive and even handsome faces, and their forms are not without symmetry. They seem. to be amiable in disposition, and are remarkable for their effeminate habits. So similar is the costume of the two sexes, that it is difficult often for the casual observer to distinguish the man from the woman. The males allow their hair to grow to a great length, which they foster with much care, and fasten to the tops of their heads with large tortoise-shell combs, such as our ladies at home might not be ashamed to wear. The common dress of the better class of the Cin- galese is a jacket, worn next to the skin, and from the INHABITANTS. 51 waist downward a colored petticoat, wrapped in grace- ful folds round the limbs, and falling to the feet. The head, well protected as it is with the superabundant hair, is generally bare of any artificial covering. Some of the common people, however, wrap a cloth turban- wise around their brows, which they shift to their body when mingling with the crowds, and thus eke out their scanty drapery, which ordinarily consists only of a petticoat. Some of the aborigines, who live in a rude condition within the fastnesses of the great forests, confine themselves in dress to the simple ward- robe of nature. In addition to the Cingalese, who are doubtless descendants of the aborigines of the island, there are the Malabars, whom tradition traces to the neighbor- ing shores of India, and whose religion and social characteristics would seem to connect them with that country. They are Hindoos, and preserve their reli- gion and system of caste, together with the costumes of their original country, as well as their language, somewhat modified, however, by their relation with the Cingalese. The neighboring islands and con- tinents supply a population of Mahommedans or Moors to Ceylon, who abound in several parts of the country, where in the various orders into which their law of caste divides them, they carry on a prosperous business as weavers, fishermen, merchants, and ba- kers. They are among the most enterprising and thriving of the population, and their well-known skill and industry have secured them much of the com- mercial wealth and influence of the island. The native language of the aborigines is peculiar 52 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. to themselves, but their writings are in Sanscrit or Pali. A provincial dialect of Portuguese is, how- ever, generally spoken by those natives who have passed their lives in the European portions of the island. The Christian religion was introduced at a very early period into Ceylon. The zealous Francis Xavier, the Roman Catholic missionary, however, was the first, by his earnest preaching and proselyting ener- gies, to establish it permanently on the island, and most of that faith are, accordingly, Romanists. The Church of England is, of course, sustained in accor- dance with the religious opinions of the British au- thorities; and the various other Protestant churches have their members among the European residents. There are missionaries of various sects engaged in efforts to evangelize the native heathen, but with what success did not appear. Among these there are no less than eleven Americans; and the different churches are represented in the proportion of thirty-four Ro- manist missionaries, twenty Wesleyans, fourteen of the English church, and thirteen Baptists. The pre- dominant religion among the Cingalese is the Budd- hist, which was at one time maintained by the British government, a heathen inheritance, derived from the succession to the native kings. The tooth of Buddha, the relic so highly revered by his followers, was taken under the especial protection of English orthodoxy, and the ecclesiastical patronage of the Buddhist establish- ment was exercised by England, in accordance with the not very scrupulous views of political expediency. The guardianship of the tooth of Buddha, and the dis- PHAR-PEN-CLOW-CHOW-YON-HON. 53 pensation of Buddhist church patronage, have been, of late years, properly delegated by a Christian nation to a heathen priesthood. There are numerous Buddhist temples in Ceylon, some of which present an impressive aspect; and there is one of great antiquity, and so much venerated as to attract votaries from various parts of India. On the arrival of the Mississippi there was a Siamese sloop-of-war in the harbor, which had brought a num- ber of Buddhist priests on a pilgrimage to this temple. The Commodore was desirous of making the ac- quaintance of the Siamese commander, and accordingly sent his aid, one of the lieutenants, to offer to him his services and invite him on board the Mississippi. Captain Mun-Clow-Sar-Coun, for that was his name, seemed very well pleased at the compliment, and visited, in company with two of the Buddhist priests, the Commodore the next day, when he was received with all the honors. He was an intelligent young man, and, among his other accomplishments, had ac- quired some knowledge of English. From him it was learned that Prince Phar-Pen-Clow-Chow-Yon-Hon, who had been so exceedingly civil to Mr. Roberts, and the officers of the Peacock, on the occasion of the visit to Siam, in 1836, was the second king, as he is styled, in the kingdom. The Commodore thought this a good opportunity to dispose of a handsome revolver, that had been intrusted to him by Mr. Colt to give, in the course of his travels, as a present to some high functionary. The pistol was accordingly despatched to Prince Phar-Pen-Clow-Chow-Yon-Hon, under the care of Captain Mun-Clow-Sar-Coun, together with a 54 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. complimentary letter to his Royal Highness, in which that dignitary was told, that the renown which he had acquired in the United States was the inducement for making him the recipient of the "trifling gift of Mr. Colt." A copy of Bowditch's Navigator, and a service sword were also sent for the benefit of the captain himself. The Mississippi left Galle on the morning of the 15th of March, and after getting clear of the harbor, shaped her course for Great Nicobar Island, the south- ernmost of the group of that name, with the intention of passing between it and Paloway, a small island or rock lying off the northern extremity of Sumatra. On the 20th, Great Nicobar was made, and the pro- posed course having been taken, the steamer entered the Straits of Malacca, steering for the Malay shore, on which side the weather is represented as being more settled and the sky less obscured. Fortunately, the weather was favorable during the passage through the straits, and it was found necessary to anchor once only during the night, at the entrance between the North and South Sands, within sight of the Aroa islands. In the straits, the Mississippi met H. B. M. ship Cleopatra, towed by a small war steamer, bound in an opposite direction. The senior English ship, on coming near, honored the broad pendant of the Commodore with a salute; which compliment was promptly re- sponded to by an equal number of guns. It is a fact worthy of remark, that the usual vertical rise and fall of the tides in the Straits of Malacca is from twelve to fourteen feet, while in other parts of the ARRIVAL AT SINGAPORE. 55 world, in the same latitude, there is scarcely any va- riation. The tides at Singapore correspond, in this respect, with those in the straits. On entering from the Straits of Malacca into what is called the Straits of Singapore, the islands became numerous and the passages consequently various and intricate. With proper precautions, the Mississippi made her way securely, and finally, on the 25th of March, came to anchor in the port of Singapore. CHAPTER III. NOTWITHSTANDING the restricted productions of the place, which could do no more than supply business. for the scant trade of a few vessels, Singapore has been, by the liberal policy of making it a free port, elevated to the imposing position of a great commer- cial mart. Its trade embraces China, India, and the archipelagos of the oriental seas, Australia, Europe and America. The town of Singapore is built upon an island, separated from the Malay peninsula by a narrow and scarcely navigable strait. The ancient capital of the Malayan Kingdom, or, as it was sometimes called, the Kingdom of Malacca, formerly stood upon the site of the present town. This old city was built in the twelfth century, and conquered by a chief from Java, who transferred the royal residence to Malacca. From that period its population and wealth gradually de- clined, so that in 1819, when the English took posses- sion, there were but few vestiges of the former city, which indeed had become but a haunt for pirates, where, as well as in the neighboring islands and pas- sages, they found a secure retreat from the vessels of HOW THEY LIVE. 57 the English and the Dutch sent in pursuit of them. The natives still offer for sale models of the various descriptions of the Malay war, pirate, and sailing proas; and most of them present exceedingly beauti- ful specimens of graceful form. The town bears all the appearance of being in a most prosperous condition; its port is always crowded with shipping, and its traders are thriving and weal- thy. Marine storehouses are seen throughout the place, but chiefly along the front of the harbor and upon the quay. The principal merchants occupy commodious and tasteful residences, built fronting the bay. There is a striking contrast in the dwellings of those who have settled in this thriving place, be- tween the elegant and convenient town and country houses of the colonial officials and merchants, and the ill ventilated and filthy domiciles of the Chinese, or the frail tenements of the Malays. The latter ordina- rily select some marshy ground in the suburbs, near a road or pathway, and rear upon piles their wooden houses, the only entrance to which is by means of temporary bridges, often constructed of a single plank. The prosperity of Singapore, so apparent even to the casual observer, is mainly to be attributed to the sagacious and energetic Sir Stamford Raffles, to whom Great Britain is indebted for the possession of the country, who pursued with untiring zeal, in spite of the opposition of many in higher authority, his deter- mined purpose of carrying out his favorite projects of policy in the administration of the colony. The population at the period of the Mississippi's visit was estimated at eighty thousand, a number 3* 58 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. which shows a very rapid increase since it fell into the possession of the British, at which time there were scarce two hundred on the whole island of Singapore. The inhabitants are made up of Jews, Chinese, Arabs, Malays, and natives of the neighboring countries. The Europeans count the least, and the Chinese the largest number; of these last it was stated that there are no less than sixty thousand, who are the artisans, fishermen, laborers, and small dealers of the place; an industrious class, to which the colony is indebted for much of its trading activity. These various people who inhabit Singapore retain their national habits and customs, and their peculiar modes of worship. The Chinese lets grow his tail, smokes his opium, and offers incense to Joss; the Arab sports his turban, invokes the name of the pro- phet, and prostrates himself within the mosque, while the European shaves his beard, drinks London porter, and takes his seat in the church pew. Most of the different nations have their places of worship; there are Chinese temples and Mohammedan mosques, as well as Christian Churches. A curious confusion of religions seems to have resulted from the intermin- gling of sects, as may be inferred from what was seen by the Commodore on a visit to a Chinese temple. In one of the recesses of the place the devil was repre- sented in human form, but of exceedingly hideous physiognomy, while in front of him was placed an image of the virgin and child. This was certainly a very strange assortment of company, and naturally. set the Commodore to conjecturing as to what could possibly have brought together such very opposite ( A HCSPITABLE MERCHANT. 59 characters; whether the intention was to represent the mother and child as at the mercy of the devil, or the reverse, was not very clear, although, from the decidedly uncomfortable expression of his satanic majesty's face, it might be inferred that he was less at his ease than any of the company and quite out of his element. It was, however, concluded that the bring- ing of Christian personages into a Chinese temple was, in some way connected with the early introduc- tion of the Romish religion by the Portuguese mis- sionaries. The stay of the Mississippi at Singapore was so short that there was but little opportunity to see much of the European society. Visits and salutes were ex- changed with the acting governor and with the com- mander of the military forces; these, together with some official business transacted with the United States consul, constituted the extent of the Commodore's in- tercourse with the European residents. With, however, a Chinese merchant, who seemed to be imbued with the true spirit of hospitality, many of the officers of the ship formed an agreeable acquaintance, and were hos- pitably entertained at his house. This gentleman's name was Whampoa, a man of courteous bearing and great intelligence, and who had made considerable progress in the English language, which he spoke with some fluency. His country residence was the most beautiful on the island. The house was large, commodious, and tastefully furnished, and its rooms. were filled with objects of curiosity and vertu. Surrounding the dwelling were extensive, pleasure grounds and plantations, on which the various pro- 60 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. ductions of the island, the useful as well as ornamen- tal, were cultivated to great perfection. There were collections of animals and rare birds, among which were the cassowary and crowned pigeon from New Guinea, and a singular breed of perfectly white pea- fowl. The residence of the hospitable Whampoa, where the Commodore dined and spent the night, was surrounded by all that could delight the eye, or add to the enjoyment of life. Among other luxurious, ap- panages of the establishment, there was a beautiful white Arabian horse, kept by Whampoa for his own especial use under the saddle, and the Commodore was very much struck by its symmetry of form, pu- rity of color, and excellence of temper, for it was as docile as a lamb. The present Rajah, a pensioner of the British gov- ernment, with his numerous wives and children, oc- cupies a native village about a mile from the English town. The Commodore did not see him, but his son, a fine intelligent youth, came on board the ship to pay his respects. In a military and geographical point of view, Singa- pore is of great importance to England. By means of it, and with an effective naval force, this entrance to the China seas may be commanded. Its position is vastly advantageous in a commercial point of view, from which it has become a stopping place for the English mail steamers, and an entrepot for the neigh- boring kingdoms of Sumatra, Borneo, Siam, Cambo- dia, and Cochin China. Singapore is in the course of the regular mail route between India, China, Australia and Europe. SUPPLIES. 61 There is a constant postal communication, by means of the English and one or more Dutch steamers, with Hong Kong, Penang, Batavia, Shanghai, Calcutta, Madras, Bengal, Bombay, Ceylon, the Mauritius, Cape of Good Hope, and, by the Red Sea, with Eu- rope and America. Supplies of most kinds required by vessels can be obtained at fair prices in the port of Singapore. The water is good, and is supplied from tanks, under the su- pervision of an official of the place, the master attend- ant. There was not a pound of coal, however, to be purchased, and there was reason to fear that the Missis- sippi would be deprived of her necessary supplies. It was not practicable to make any arrangement with the Labuan Company, for the whole produce of the mines under their control was exhausted by the Ori- ental and Pacific Company, with which a contract existed for a supply of one thousand tons per month. Fortunately for the Mississippi, however, the stock of the last-named company at Hong Kong was falling short, and, as it was difficult to procure vessels to transport an additional supply, the agent of the com- pany at Singapore agreed to lend the Commodore two hundred and thirty tons, provided it would be returned at Hong Kong. The British settlement of Singapore embraces not only the island of that name, but a number of smaller ones scattered about in the neighboring seas. The main island, Singapore, is about twenty-five miles long, and fifteen in breadth, containing an esti- mated area of two hundred and seventy-five square miles. 62 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. When the English first obtained possession of Singapore, the island was covered with a forest, and entirely without cultivation. Now in the neighbor- hood of the town, and extending more or less into the interior, there are considerable plantations, which have been chiefly cultivated by the industrious immi- grants from China. Rice, coffee, sugar, and other agricultural productions of the warmer latitudes are obtained, but the supply is not sufficient for the con- sumption of the island. The tropical fruits grow readily, among which the mangusteen reaches great perfection, although its taste did not equal the antici- pations formed from the boasted deliciousness of its flavor. The fruit, however, was not in full season during the ship's stay, and it may possibly not have reached the height of its excellence. The nutmeg is cultivated with considerable success, as well as the cocoa-nut, orange, and other tropical fruits. Various European animals have been introduced into the island. The horse in use is a stumpy, fiery little creature, wonderfully strong for its size. It is generally harnessed to a light carriage which is in common use on the island, and may be hired in the streets of the town at a moderate price for the day. The driver seldom takes his seat upon the box, but runs at the head of his horse, and keeps up a speed in company with the animal of six, and sometimes even seven or eight miles an hour. This plan suggests a good hint for the prevention of cruelty to animals, as it has the effect of securing a humane consideration. for the beast, which is not likely to be over driven, when for every step it takes its driver takes two, and 1 ་ 1 HUNGRY TIGERS. 63 is thus forcibly reminded of a fellow feeling which cannot fail to make him "wondrous kind." The native animals are generally the same as those of the adjacent peninsula, from which many of them migrate. The tigers especially entertain a great par- tiality for Singapore, and resort there in great num- bers by swimming across the strait which separates the main land from the island. These are the genuine animals, which have no hesitation in pouncing upon a passing traveller, or snatching up and making a meal of any unfortunate Chinaman or native who may happen to be in the jungle, busy in cutting wood, clearing land for the rice plantations, or otherwise occupied. It was stated on the best authority that not a day passes without the destruction of one human being at least by these ferocious beasts. The Com- modore was at first disposed to be incredulous of this statement, but as the acting governor and commander of the forces both confirmed it, he could no longer hesitate to accept it as truth. He was told by them that so much of an every day occurrence was this fatality, that many of the cases were not reported, in order to avoid the trouble and expense of a coroner's inquest, which the laws require. "Death by tiger," however, is a verdict that might be rendered daily were the legal formalities complied with. It is said, and probably with truth, that the tiger, after he has once tasted of human flesh, becomes so fond of it that he prefers its flavor to that of his ordi- nary venison or wild boar, and will make every effort to obtain a supply of his favorite food. It is this in- tense longing for human flesh which makes the tiger 64 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. so very dangerous to the inhabitants of Singapore, es- pecially to the poor Malay or Chinese who may be obliged to expose himself in the jungle and the forest. It was said, too, that the animal showed decided pre- ference for a Chinaman. Nor do these stories of the tiger seem very won- derful, when the fact is well established, that those savages who are addicted to cannibalism become pas- sionately fond of their horribly unnatural food. There is a tribe of Malays, called Battas, who, like their fel- low Malay tigers, are said by Sir Stamford Raffles to eat one another, and to prefer such food to any other. Nor are they to be classed entirely among barbarians, for these Battas can read and write, and have codes. of laws of great antiquity; and yet, according to the authority just named, not less than from sixty to a hundred Battas are eaten annually, even during a time of peace. In addition to the tigers there are deer and wild boars found upon the island, and several varieties of smaller animals, the monkey, the wild hog or peccary, the porcupine and the sloth. Birds abound; some are of great beauty. Serpents are not very numerous, but among them is the venomous cobra. A singular animal, called the water buffalo, was nore particularly observed at Singapore. It ap- proaches in size to the ox of our country, and like it is used as an animal for draught, being harnessed to the shafts of a cart and guided by a driver, who holds a rope which is fastened to a ring or thong passed through the cartilage which divides the nos- trils. The skin of this beast is rough, and not un- DEPARTURE FROM SINGAPORE. 65 like that of the rhinoceros, and though the water buffalo has somewhat the general appearance of the ox, its head is altogether different. Notwithstanding the seeming thickness and toughness of its hide, it suffers greatly from the flies, and to avoid them keeps, except during feeding time, in the water; hence, probably, its name. Inquiries were made about two remarkable inhabi- tants of the waters about Malacca and Sumatra, de- scribed by Raffles: the sailing fish, called by the natives ikan layer, and the duyong, mentioned by Valentin, and so long talked of as the mermaid; but the Commodore was told by the inhabitants of Singa- pore that these fish had become very scarce, if not entirely extinct. Shells collected upon the adjacent coasts and along the Straits of Malacca are brought in large quantities to Singapore for sale, and some ex- cellent specimens were obtained. The Mississippi having taken on board the neces- sary supplies of fuel, left Singapore on the 29th of March. The ship proceeded through the middle channel, passing near a light-house erected on the rock called "Pedra Branca." This course was taken with the view of running up on the Cochin China and Hainan shores. On the morning of the 6th of April, as the ship was proceeding on her course, vast numbers of fish- ing boats were descried as far as the eye could reach. No less than two hundred and sixty-nine of these little craft were counted, at one time, from the poop. They were sailing in couples, about ninety fathoms apart, before the wind, with a net extended between 66 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. each two. They were curiously rigged, having square sails set upon two or three masts, which had, at a dis- tance, somewhat the appearance of courses and top- sails, which they hoisted and lowered as they desired to graduate the rate of sailing, in order to keep way with their consorts. These vessels were engaged in taking a small fish similar to the sardine of the Medi- terranean, and the same mode of netting them is pur- sued in both localities. The appearance of these craft was a sure indica- tion of the proximity of land, and accordingly, at half past ten in the morning, it was sighted. The ship continuing her course toward the roadstead of Macao, was anchored at dark under the Ladrones. On the following morning she proceeded to Macao roads, and after a communication with the shore, the course was continued on to Hong Kong, where she finally came to anchor about sunset of the same day. Here were found the sloops-of-war Plymouth and Saratoga, and the store-ship Supply; the two former of which, as the Mississippi let go her anchor, fired the usual salute, which was duly returned from the guns of the Mississippi; the Susquehanna, however, was nowhere to be seen. This vessel had been de- signated by the government as the flag-ship of the Commodore, who, much to his surprise and disap- pointment, found that she had sailed a fortnight pre- viously for Shanghai. No other course was left to him, therefore, but to despatch the Plymouth to the same port, with instructions to Commander Buchanan of the Susquehanna to await there the Commodore's HONG KONG. 67 arrival in the Mississippi, which he meant should fol- low the Susquehanna as soon as she could be prepared for the northern cruise; and fortunately Shanghai was at no great distance out of the route to Japan. The town of Hong Kong presents a picture of busy activity; the shore is lined with Chinese boats, the harbor is crowded with the shipping of all nations, and the toiling Chinese are kept at work in the roads, or in other labors required by this progressive place. When the English took possession of the island in 1841, there was but a bleak and barren hill-side where there now stands the city of Victoria. The popula- tion of the place now amounts to no less than 14,671, and while its commercial warehouses, its docks and piers, and its fleet of traders, give evidence of its ma- terial prosperity, its social, intellectual, and religious progress are proved by its club-houses, reading- rooms, schools, and churches. Heathenism has also its visible signs. The Chinese have three temples, and the Mahommedans a mosque at Hong Kong. The island rises at the north in a range of moun- tains, the base of which terminates near the sea, leav- ing a narrow edge, along which the town of Victoria extends for two or three miles. There is a large trade in opium between India and Hong Kong, it being imported into the latter place, and thence smug- gled into China along the coast. There is no very extensive agricultural culture at Hong Kong, as the land for the most part is rocky, and of little fertility. On the southern part of the island, however, the soil is somewhat more favorable than that on the northern, and it contains a single val- 68 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. ley which is tolerably productive. There is an abun- dance of excellent water. The climate is hot, and as the alternations of rain and heat keep up an active de- composition in the marshy districts of the island, they render it quite unwholesome. The southern side of Hong Kong is the more healthful, as it is refreshed and purified by the south-western monsoon, but being destitute of good harbors, the English were obliged to fix their settlement on the north. The laboring class and the small traders are chiefly Chinese, who are ever on the alert for gain. Their bazaars invite the passing stranger in every street, and the itinerant artisans go busily tramping in their daily routine. There are many striking figures among them, with their peculiar costumes and novel imple- ments of labor. On leaving Hong Kong, the Mississippi went to Macao, and thence to Whampoa, on the Canton River. where she anchored. In this river there are certain bars, and it is necessary not only to take a pilot, but to employ small Chinese boats, which are stationed at the sides of the crooked channel, and on the bars alluded to as guides. As the boats receive a dollar each for this service, they are called "dollar boats." Whampoa, which is the anchorage for all large vessels whose business is with Canton, is on the river, about twelve miles from that city. The pagoda here is a marked object, and however it may be venerated by the Chi- nese on religious grounds, is no less regarded for its usefulness as a land-mark by foreign vessels, for they steer and anchor by its bearings. The passage to Canton is made in boats, and is by WHERE THE FOREIGNERS LIVE. 69 no means very agreeable. The Commodore was sadly disappointed in the appearance of the stream, which he describes as muddy and shallow, with scarcely a hut upon its banks until the city is nearly reached; and then swarms of floating habitations are seen moored to the banks, five or six tiers deep, and occu- pied by a wretched, half clad people. Through these two lines of receptacles of poverty and filth which thus border the stream, you pass to the mercantile factory, the residence of most of the foreign merchants, and the spot where the stranger lands. Hence he is conducted to the houses of those to whom he bears letters of introduction, where he is hospitably received and takes up his lodging, as there are no comfortable places of public entertainment in this quarter. The comparatively small space occupied by the foreigners on the river side is, notwithstanding its lim- ited extent, quite a pleasant spot. The whole quar- ter contains but about four acres. The foreign mer- chants occupy the large buildings in the rear as places of business and abode, while the front, which includes a half of the whole area, is beautifully laid out as a garden, with an English church in the centre, and the flags of different nations floating from tall poles planted in various spots. The grounds are arranged with walks, and ornamented with shrubbery and flowering plants, presenting a delightful resort in the freshness of the morning or the cool of, the evening. stranger is struck with the peculiar aspect of the place, when on one side, in proximity to low, dingy, Chinese houses, buildings of European structure rise to the height of three or four stories, while on the The 70 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. other, the river is densely populous with the inhabited boats. The foreigners term their residences and places of business factories, but the natives designate them as Hongs, which is the usual Chinese word for a commercial establishment or warehouse. Although there are but few of the larger or pub- lic buildings in the foreign quarter, which is but a suburb of the city, there are all the ordinary varieties of streets, houses, and bazaars. Foreigners generally confine their visits to that part adjacent to the garden, through which Old and New China streets run. The only hotel in the place, frequented by Euro- peans and Americans, is near the latter street, and is quite inferior. It is the hospitable practice of the foreign merchants to invite strangers to their princely establishments, where a generous profusion and a warm welcome are extended to the visitor. The Com- modore and some of his officers were received into the house of the American consul, and most gener- ously entertained. In addition to Old and New China streets, there is, hard by, a narrow, filthy alley, not inappropriately called Hog lane, and filled with the most abandoned portion of the people, who minis- ter to the vicious appetites of the foreign sailors, sup- plying them with wretched grog and other dangerous stimulants. There are no drives or walks leading directly into the country from the foreign quarter; the residents are, therefore, limited to the river, where, in the even- ing, they exercise themselves in rowing their swift little boats. On the opposite side of the river, how- ever, on the island of Honan, there is a walk, extend- CANTON. 71 ing a mile or more, to a Buddhist temple; but there is little that is attractive in the surrounding country, and nothing peculiar about the temple, which is simi- lar to the other joss houses. On a visit which was made to this spot by one of the officers of the expedi- tion, a drove of sacred pigs were seen in their sacred styes, and they seemed to flourish exceedingly, for they were so fat that they could not stand. It was something of a curiosity to behold this sanctified pork, fattening upon the drippings of the sanctuary. Canton is the capital of the province of Kuan-tong, from which the name given to the city by Europeans has been corrupted. It is falsely applied, for it is the name of the province only, that of the city is Kuang- chow-foo. The city is built on two rivers, the Choo- Keang, or Pearl, and the Pi-Keang, which is a branch. of the former. The mouth of the Choo-Keang, Pearl, or Canton River, is called the Bocca Tigris. It de- rives this name from the supposed resemblance of the hill-tops, on Great Tiger Island, to the outline of a tiger's head. Although the resemblance is not at first very striking, it becomes quite obvious after examina- tion. The river is guarded at its mouth, and at seve- ral points on its banks, by Chinese forts, which, with their whitewashed walls and general pacific aspect, do not appear very formidable. The river swarms with pirates, the fishermen oc- casionally becoming their allies, and they carry on their depredations unchecked in the very teeth of the forts. When the pirates fail of falling in with strangers whom they dare to rob, they fall out with each other, and murder and plunder their friends 72 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. with as little compunction as if they were strangers. In the passage of the Mississippi from Macao to Whampoa, the anchorage on the Canton River, one of the two Chinese boats in tow was swamped by bad steering, whereupon the other, in fear of a similar catastrophe, cast off and attempted to proceed up the river. The owner, who happened to be on board the steamer, expressed his fears that she would be over- hauled by pirates before her arrival at Whampoa ; nor were his fears groundless; she was boarded and robbed a few hours only after she had lost sight of the Mississippi. While the steamer was at Hong Kong several piracies were committed almost under the guns of the vessels-of-war. As for the land pirates, they are quite as expert at picking and stealing as the most accomplished thieves and pick- pockets of New York or London. One of the lieu- tenants of the Mississippi, at early twilight one even- ing, just as he was stepping into a hired boat to re- turn to the ship, was seized amid a crowd of people, and an attempt was made to pull his watch from his fob; fortunately his Pickwickian rotundity of form saved the watch, but the chain was carried off in triumph. From the mouth of the river to Canton the dis- tance is about thirty-two miles, but the large vessels do not proceed further than the anchorage at Wham- poa, ten miles below the foreign quarter of the city, with which communication is kept up by boats. The country adjacent to Canton is intersected with rivers and creeks, in which fish abound, and a plentiful mar- ket is daily open in the city. MUNIE THE CITY. 73 Custom House in Canton River. The alluvial ground south of the city is highly cultivated with rice fields and gardens. The higher ground to the north and east is wooded with firs and other trees. A wall encloses a portion of the city, which is subdivided by another wall running from east to west. North of the latter is that part called the inner or old city, which is inhabited chiefly by the dominant Tartar families, while to the south is the new or outer city, where the inhabitants are mostly composed of the descendants of the original Chinese population. The streets are narrow, tortuous, and winding, like a cork-screw, but thronged by an immense population, and so very contracted that there is often barely room for two sedan chairs, the only vehicles allowed, to pass each other. The importance of Canton results from its being the emporium of the great trade of Europe and Ame- 4 74 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. rica with China; the annual amount of which was, some years ago, estimated at eighty millions of dol- والوا H Chinese. ars, the principal part of which is under the con- trol of the merchants of England and the United States. On leaving Canton, the Commodore was invited to take possession of the residence of a mercantile friend at Macao, where he soon found himself in the most luxurious quarters. The Commodore, and his officers who accompanied him, not conscious of the exceeding expansiveness of the hospitality of the foreign mer- chants in that country, naturally supposed, that the loan of a house was a sufficiently generous stretch of liber- ality, and took it for granted, as the establishment was unoccupied by its proprietor, that the living was to be at their own expense. Accordingly, one of the COMFORTABLE QUARTERS. 75 officers was appointed caterer, who was by no means reserved in giving his orders for this or that article that he might desire, to the head servant in charge of the house. There was no little surprise at the end of the visit, to find that nothing would be received, but the ordinary gratuity to that prince of major-domos, who said, that his employer was only too happy to have his house occupied by his friends; and expressed a hope that the Commodore and his party would not think of going elsewhere on any future visit to Macao. A guest at one of these magnificent establish- ments, finds himself as much at his ease as he would be in his inn, and no sooner expresses a wish than it is gratified, without the disagreeable reminder after- wards, that he has to pay for it. The whole manage- ment of the household devolves upon the major-domo, whose duty it is to satisfy every want, while the master merely concerns himself with providing the means for this profuse hospitality. There is, also, a very con- venient official attached to these establishments, termed a comprador, whose duty it is to pay all the bills for the purchases and incidental expenses of the guest, who, of course, refunds what is paid. There is not much at present to interest the visitor at Macao as it is but a ghost of its former self. There is almost a complete absence of trade or com- merce. The harbor is deserted, and the sumptuous dwellings and storehouses of the old merchants are comparatively empty, while the Portuguese who in- habit the place are but rarely seen, and seem listless and unoccupied. An occasional Parsee, in high crowned cap and snowy robe, a venerable merchant, 76 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. and here and there a Jesuit priest, and his flock of youthful disciples pass now and then, but they are only as the decaying monuments of the past. At one time, however, the town of Macao was one of the most flourishing marts of the East. When the Portuguese obtained possession, in the latter part of the sixteenth century, they soon established it as the centre of a wide commerce with China and other oriental countries. Its origin is attributed to a few Portuguese merchants belonging to Lampacayo, who were allowed to resort there, and establish some tem- porary huts for shelter and the drying of damaged goods. Huc, the Chinese traveller, gives a different account; he states that the Portuguese were allowed to settle by the Emperor, in return for the signal service of capturing a famous pirate who had long ravaged the coasts. From an humble beginning, the settlement gradually arose to an imposing position as a com- mercial place, for which it was greatly indebted to the monopoly it enjoyed of eastern commerce. The town is situated upon a peninsula at the south- ward of the island of Macao. It is sufficiently pic- turesque in appearance, built as it is upon the acclivi- ties of the rising ground about the harbor, with its gay-looking white houses, which overhang the ter- races that bound the shore and look out upon the sea. The houses of the old merchants, though they now bear an appearance of neglect, yet attest, by the spaciousness of the apartments, and the luxuriousness of their appointments, the former opulence of the Portuguese traders. The pleasant walks about the circuit of the neighboring hills and the Praya invite A MACAO HARBOR. 77 the visitor to strengthen himself in cheerful exercise. The dull look of the town is somewhat relieved in the summer time, when the foreign residents of Canton ichardson=Cox. NI Chinese Woman and Girl. C. DROWN, DEL and Hong Kong resort there to bathe in the waters of Bishop's Bay, and to recreate in the enjoyment of the healthful sea air of the place. The harbor is not suitable for large vessels, which anchor in Macao roads, several miles from the town. It is, however, though destitute of every appearance 78 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. of commercial activity, always enlivened by the fleet of Tanka boats which pass, conveying passengers to and fro, between the land and the Canton and Hong Kong steamers. The Chinese damsels, in gay cos- tume, as they scull their light craft upon the smooth and gently swelling surface of the bay, present a lively ANUN Tanka Boat Girl. aspect, and as they are looked upon in the distance, from the verandahs above the Praya, which command a view of the bay, have a fairy-like appearance, which a nearer approach serves, however, to change into a more substantial and coarse reality. The Cave of Camoens, where the Portuguese poet is supposed to have written a portion of his Lusiad, TOMB OF A POET. 79 is a place of universal interest and resort at Macao. It is picturesquely situated upon the summit of a small hill, on the margin of the inner harbor. Large granite rocks are here gathered in a confused cluster, which form a natural cave, from the entrance of which there is a wide prospect of the surrounding country. The banyans, the pagoda, and other oriental trees unite their foliage, and form a grove in which the rocky cave is embowered. Surrounding it are grounds planted with trees, creeping vines, and flowering shrubs, charmingly arranged by the borders of wind- ing paths, and upon the sides of the hills. Artificial terraces, ingeniously disposed, invite the visitor to the enjoyment of the view or to quiet repose. Above the cave rises a rotunda, from which there is an enchanting prospect, and below, a marble monu- ment, with a bronze bust and an inscription, records the features, the genius, and virtue of Camoens, the poet. Camoens' visit to Macao was during his banish- ment from Portugal, in consequence of his pertinacious courtship of a lady of rank, whose parents did not affect an alliance with the poet, who, although of a respectable family, was poor, and looked upon as an uncertain adventurer. In 1551, he proceeded to Goa, in India, where having again involved himself in trou- ble by writing his "Absurdities of India," he was banished to the Moluccas, and in the course of his exile he resorted frequently to Macao, which was a favorite residence of the poet. The cave was his chosen spot of retirement, where, in its "sweet retired solitude," he meditated his great work, the Lusiad. 80 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. Camoens returned to Portugal, but only to live in misery and die in a hospital. The interior of the island of Macao, which is ex- clusively cultivated by the Chinese, yields a variety of vegetable productions, with which the town is sup- plied. The whole population is about 20,000, and of these, 13,000 belong to the peninsula and town, of which more than one half are Chinese, and in the interior of the island this race compose the whole. The government of the town is in the hands of the Portuguese. The Portuguese have a college, churches, and various educational, benevolent and ecclesiastical institutions in Macao, where the Chinese also have their peculiar establishments and a temple. On the evening of April 28th, the Mississippi was again under way, leaving the Saratoga at Macao, to await the arrival of Dr. S. W. Williams, of Canton, who had been appointed interpreter to the expedition. The course was now directed for Shanghai. The navigation of the coast of China, from Hong Kong to the mouth of the Yang-tse-Keang, is, at most seasons, difficult and perplexing. The frequent fogs and irregular tides and currents make it very annoy- ing to those who are strangers to the navigation, when close in with the coast. During the passages of the Susquehanna and Mississippi from Hong Kong to Shanghai, neither had a meridian observation of the sun. The entrance to the Yang-tse-Keang, which leads to the commercial city of Shanghai, is obstructed on either side by shoals, which make it dangerous for vessels not having pilots. The rise and fall of the tide averages APPROACH TO SHANGHAI. 81 about ten feet, and vessels are obliged to find their way hap-hazard into the channel, or perchance run upon one of the Sister Sands, as they are called. Numbers of vessels resorting to Shanghai are lost, and still nothing has been done to remedy the evil. The Commodore was convinced, on visiting this river with the Mississippi, that until proper landmarks and beacons are established to indicate the entrance, it must be an unfit resort for any but the smaller vessels of a squadron, and consequently, an unfit place for a naval dépôt. The Susquehanna, the Plymouth, and the Supply, all grounded on going in, and the last re- mained thumping on the North Sand twenty-two hours, and was only saved from total loss by a provi- dential change of wind. The Mississippi was carried, in the confusion of her pilot, out of the channel, but by good fortune did not stop, though she ran into nine- teen feet water, one foot less than her draft, on the South Sand, the power of the engines having proved her salvation. Shanghai is built upon the left bank of the River Wampon, a branch of the Yang-tse-Keang. Near the mouth of the Wampon is the village of Woosung, the station where the foreign merchants formerly estab- lished their receiving ships, and the trading vessels their anchorage. Nothing can be less picturesque than the scenery of the banks of the Wampon in the approach to Shanghai. Monotonous flats of alluvial grounds. stretch their wide expanse on either side of the tortuous river. The fertile fields, rich with an abundant harvest of rice and grain, are encouraging prospects to the eye of the agriculturist, but the poetical observer is sadly 82 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. > disappointed in a view which presents a dead level of landscape, without a mountain, a hill-side, or even a tree to relieve the monotony. In front of the city of Shanghai, quays have been built out, and along them extend the storehouses and sumptuous residences of the foreign merchants, which have been constructed since the termination of the opium war with Great Britain. Here are to be found wide and well-graded streets, beautiful gardens, and all the comforts and conveniences that are to be met with in any part of the world. Two Gothic churches, one belonging to the English, and the other to the American Protestant Episcopal mission, show an en- couraging success of missionary effort, and excite the hopes of the Christian, for the progress of his faith. The native city is a great contrast to that part of the suburbs inhabited by the foreign residents. Shanghai, proper, is enclosed within a wall, and has the appear- ance of most of the Chinese cities. The place is quite large, and very populous. Its streets are narrow, like most of those of the native cities, not being much more than eight or ten feet in width, and are intersected by dirty alleys, which lead to the rear of the small and con- tracted dwellings of the Chinese, who live in the midst of foul air and all kinds of filth. The filthiness of Shanghai gives no favorable idea of the domestic habits of the people; a slight glance at the men and women usually met in the streets was quite convinc- ing enough of their want of reverence for what the proverb says is "next to godliness." During the stay of the Commodore at Shanghai, the shops had been IMMENSE TRADE. 83 emptied of their contents and carried into places of safety, in expectation of an attack upon the city by the rebels; consequently the bazaars had a dull look, WROBERTS.SO Inhabitants of Shanghai. and but few of the native inhabitants could be seen. The domestic trade of the city has been immense for a long time, being carried on in all directions with the vast interior of China. A multitudinous popula- tion swarms in that part of the country which stretches back of Shanghai, and the commercial intercourse with the large city of Nankin and others, with their millions of inhabitants, and incessant trading activity, was constant, until interrupted by the Chinese rebel- lion. The trade of Shanghai has been stated to be as large as that of any part of the world, not excepting even London. The immediate neighborhood of Shanghai is highly cultivated, and fertile fields stretch in all directions as far as the eye can reach, rich with their harvests of 84 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. cotton, rice, wheat, barley, beans and potatoes. The markets of the town are well supplied, and at moder- ate prices, with beef, mutton, poultry, game, fish, and vegetables of all varieties. Among the different kinds of game, the pheasant, woodcock, and snipe abound, and of the fish, the shad is common during its season, of good size and flavor; some, indeed, larger than are seen in the United States, though in taste inferior to those caught in our rivers. Fruit is scarce, and of inferior quality, as the Chinese pay but little attention to its cultivation; some cherries, however, were tasted, which proved to be tolerable, and it was said that the peaches were good. All the varieties of Chinese manufactured articles can ordinarily be obtained at Shanghai, and especially a silk of famous fabric, woven at Su Chan, a neighboring city. But the intestine disturbances prevailing deprived the Commodore of any but a hearsay knowledge of many of these articles, which, however, are said to be obtained, in pacific times, more easily at Shanghai than at Canton. The foreign commerce has greatly increased since the termination of the war with Great Britain, and the general belief is entertained that Shanghai, with its superior advantages, will monopolize most of the foreign trade with China. The population of the place was estimated at two hundred and eighty thousand, and the Chinese who composed it seemed to be of a better class than those at Canton and Hong Kong. Like all their country- men, they are indefatigable in labor and untiring in trading activity, for which they have, undoubtedly, a natural instinct. VISIT TO THE TAOU-TAI. 85 The Commodore, while at Shanghai, made an in- teresting return visit to the Taou-tai, or governor and commander of the city, who first called upon him at the American consulate, and afterwards visited the ship. The Taou-tai has a lucrative, but by no means easy office. Among his other duties, he has to watch, especially, the interests and conduct of the foreign residents, and what with the caprices of strangers, the sometimes inordinate claims of their representatives, and the arbitrary requirements of his imperial master, he must have hard work to keep up a fair balance between his duties to his government on the one hand, and the foreigners on the other. This high official has also to sustain the responsibility of a secure transport of the taxes of the province, and to fulfil the by no means sinecure duty of protecting the commerce of Shanghai against the pirates who swarm the coasts. His highness makes his official visits with a pomp and circumstance suitable to his dignified station. The ringing sounds of gongs herald his approach, and he comes seated grandly in his chair of state, attended by a suite of subordinate mandarins. The office, in common with the general practice of China, is be- stowed ordinarily upon him who has earned one of the topmost of the nine colored buttons, which, worn above the official cap, serve, by their vari-colored grades, to distinguish the mandarins. As literary eminence is the passport to office, the Taou-tai is ordi- narily well up in Chinese literature, and can quote whole passages of Confucius or Mencius with the utmost volubility. In the Commodore's visit to the Taou-tai he was 86 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. accompanied by twenty of his officers and the Ameri- can consul, who were all, with due regard to the im- portance of the occasion, dressed up in full uniform. The party, thus adorned, and duly seated in sedan chairs, were conveyed from the consular residence to the government house, situated in the centre of the city, within the walls. On arrival at the entrance, the Commodore and his suite were saluted with the usual salvo of three guns (the extent, with the Chinese, of honorable ammunition on such occasions) and the music of a band. The Taou-tai was at the threshold to meet his visitors, and as the Commodore alighted from his sedan chair his highness escorted him into the hall of audience, while the rest of the company fol- lowed. The Commodore was placed, in accordance with Chinese ceremony, at the side of the Taou-tai, on a platform raised a little above the floor. On entering and departing from the government house, the party passed through an open apartment, adorned with a bold representation of a gigantic Chinese deity on the wall, and furnished with large wooden chairs, stuffed with red cloth cushions, which were ranged along the sides. A table standing in the apart- ment, and holding the vessel containing the pieces of bamboo which are thrown by the hand of the Chinese judge to the executioner, to indicate the number of strokes to be applied to the convicted criminal, showed the ordinary purposes of the chamber, which was that of a hall of justice. Refreshments, consisting of teas, liquors, (includ- ing champagne,) cake, and so forth, were handed round to the visitors in succession; and, after a stay -. LEAVES SHANGHAI. 87 of an hour, the Commodore and his party returned in the same manner as they came. Entering again their sedan chairs, and traversing the narrow streets of Shanghai in long procession, and jostling every one who obstructed the way, they finally reached the American consulate. The Mississippi had arrived at Shanghai on the 4th of May, and the interval between that date and the 17th of the same month, was chiefly employed in transferring the Commodore to the Susquehanna, which then became his flag-ship, and in taking in the usual supplies of coal and provisions for the voyage. No less than five tons of Chinese "cash," to be dis- pensed in the Lew Chew islands, was rather an un- usual addition to the ship's stores. On Monday morning, May 16th, 1853, the Missis- sippi moved down the river, and was followed the next day by the Commodore in the Susquehanna, while the Plymouth was left behind, for a short time, to await the course of events in the rebel camp, as the United States residents had expressed some fears for the security of their lives and property, her comman- der having orders to follow as soon as he could do so consistently with the safety of American interests at Shanghai. The day of departure was unusually clear, and the cultivated banks of the river, with their orchards and fields of grain, never appeared more beautifully green. With the fine day, which gave a bright, cheerful as- pect to every object, the inspiriting music of the band, * The "cash" is a small copper coin, about the twelve-hundredth part of a dollar. 88 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. which struck up a succession of lively airs, the crowds of spectators on the shore, and the natural enthusiasm of all on the prospect of carrying out the enterprise which was the great object of the expedition, the departure from Shanghai was in a high degree ani- mating. The squadron, which now prepared to sail for Lew Chew, was composed of the Susquehanna, the Missis- sippi, the Supply, and the Caprice, which was dis- covered standing in, as the other ships were standing out, and was ordered to follow. The Plymouth and the Saratoga were expected to sail from China and join the rendezvous at Lew Chew. The Susquehanna got under way at one o'clock on the 23d of May, followed by the Mississippi with the Supply in tow, all bound for Napha, the principal port of the Great Lew Chew Islands. In the course of the evening, about six o'clock, the low range of islands known as the Saddles, and inhabited by a sparse population of fishermen, was passed, the ships directing their course to the north of them, where there is an open channel free from shoals. The night was clear, with a full moon, and the weather was mild and agreeable. The Susquehanna moved on at a moderate rate, keeping about a mile in advance of the Missis- sippi, while the Caprice, gently fanned by the south- western monsoon, managed to keep also in sight, though further in the distance, until she was lost in the darkness of the night. It was found that the Mississippi, with the aid of topsails, although she had the Supply in tow, rapidly gained upon the Susquehanna; accordingly a foretop- BOUND TO LEW CHEW. 89 sail was set upon the latter, the good effect of which was soon shown, by her leaving her competitor so far astern that it was necessary to wait until the Missis- sippi could come up again. The Susquehanna's en- gines were only worked at half speed, with the con- sumption, to which she was restricted, of one ton of coal per hour, but notwithstanding, with the aid of the regular breeze of the monsoon, she succeeded in making seven and a half knots an hour. As the course was southerly, the weather became every moment warmer, and the sea was as smooth as a lake. During the passage, the crew were regularly called to quar- ters, and exercised in all the usual manoeuvres neces- sary in the preparation for action, and on the morning of the 25th of May, after quarters, general orders 11 and 12 were read; the former related to the discipline to be observed on board ship during the visit to the Lew Chew Islands, and the latter enjoined the neces- sity of keeping up the most friendly relations with the Japanese inhabitants wherever found, and also stated that the members of the expedition were ordered to use all possible friendly means, and not to resort to force but from the sternest necessity. In the evening the signal of land in sight was made by the Mississippi, and subsequently was re- ported by the man at the fore-topmast head of the Susquehanna. During the night the steamers were kept at slow speed, standing off and on; the Supply had been previously cast off from the Mississippi, and left to make her own way under sail. At half-past seven o'clock in the morning of May 26th, the land was again made at a distance of nearly twenty miles, and = 90 TO JAPAN. EXPEDITION · as the steamers moved on, it was distinctly descried as a long island rising gradually from the sea to a cliff at its northern extremity, and with a steep head- land at the south. Beyond the island, which was passed, and its green foliage distinctly seen, was other land, to which the Susquehanna was now headed, followed closely by the Mississippi, while the Supply was quite out of sight. Napha was reached in the evening, and entered in company with the Saratoga, from Macao, which ship the steamers had fallen in with off the harbor. CHAPTER IV. NOTHING could be more grateful to the eye, after the sea voyage, than the first view of the Lew Chew Islands, which arose in picturesque elevations from the sea, covered with the freshest verdure. Lew Chew Islands. The large island-Great Lew Chew, as it is called -towered above the numerous islets of the group. Its sides, which here rolled from a central ridge in gentle undulations of fertile fields, and there broke into precipitous crags and irregular rocks down to the co- ral shore, were beautifully diversified by waving rice, groves of pines, palms, and a rich vegetation of varied 92 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. hues of green. On the low land, within the inner harbor, the brown tiled roofs of a group of houses be- came visible as the ships doubled the cape, aptly called Abbey Point, from the castellated appearance of the crags and rocks which crowned its summit and gave it the appearance of one of those religious estab- lishments of the Middle Ages. A number of junks were at anchor near the shore, and betokened some degree of trading activity. The first movement from the land was the hoisting of the ubiquitous British ensign from the summit of a crag which rises to the north of the town, and soon some persons were discerned in the distance, appa- rently watching with eager curiosity the approach of the vessels. The whole squadron presented quite a formidable appearance, and naturally awakened a great interest on shore, and as the steamers closed in with the land the stir among the natives, who could be seen busily moving about with their white umbrel- las-for a pattering rain kept briskly falling—was quite apparent. The ships had hardly come to anchor when a boat came alongside the Susquehanna, bringing a couple of native dignitaries from the shore. Those gentle- men of Napha made quite an imposing appearance, and would have gladdened the heart of an artist in search of a couple of model patriarchs of the time of Joseph and his brethren. Their costume, complexion, and reverend air were quite in character with the pa- triarchal worthies, the thought of whom their presence suggested. They wore long flowing robes of yellow and blue grass-cloth, which were gathered in at the FIRST VISIT FROM THE LAND. 93 waist with sashes, and fell below in folds nearly to their white-sandaled feet. On their heads were bright yellow caps, of a round, oblong form, resembling some- what the turkish fez in shape, termed, in the Loo- Choo dialect, Hatchee-Matchee, which were tied under their chins with strings, while from their swarthy Orien- tal faces, down to their breasts, flowed long beards. The Lew Chew dignitaries came on board, bowing so pro- foundly that they nearly touched the deck at each sa- laam with their yellow caps, and then, after assuming a temporary perpendicular, presented to one of the offi- cers their cards. These cards were three feet in length, and of a red color. It was found convenient, from their size, to carry them folded, and they were accordingly borne doubled up. Who these dignitaries were, or what the purpose of their visit, was not very clear, for none of the officers understood their language, and the Chi- nese interpreter of the expedition, Mr. Williams, had only just arrived from Macao in the Saratoga, and had not yet come on board the flag-ship, the Susquehanna. One of the Commodore's Chinese stewards was there- fore summoned in the emergency, and he understood the characters on the Brobdignag cards sufficiently to interpret that the visit was merely a chin-chin, or one of politeness. They asked very courteously after the Commodore, and expressed a wish to have the plea- sure of seeing him. The Commodore, however, know- ing the ceremonious kind of people he had to deal with, and how necessary it was to conform to their oriental notions of dignity, refused to receive them. He had resolved upon showing himself only to the highest in authority, and he had reason to suppose 94 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. that his present visitors, though undoubtedly of the ton, were not of the loftiest official position. There seemed to be some difference of rank between the two. The one in a yellow robe, who gave his name as Whang-cha-ching (probably the Lew Chew pro- nunciation of Whang-ta-Zhinnie, "His Excellency, Whang "), being the higher personage, and the gen- tleman in blue the lower. No sooner had the Lew Chewans departed, evi- dently somewhat discomposed at not having been admitted to the presence of the Commodore, than a boat paddled swiftly by a dozen swarthy, half-naked natives, dashed along and brought up alongside of the steamer. A very civilized-looking gentleman, with a Jewish cast of countenance, now actively stepped out, and was in a moment on deck, announcing himself as Dr. Bettelheim. This gentleman, a converted Jew, was the English missionary who, with his wife and seven children, had resided for seven years on the island of Great Lew Chew, with a forlorn hope of con- verting the natives. He it was who had hoisted the English flag, which had been observed from the ships as they entered the bay. This gentleman was evidently in a great state of excitement on the occasion of the arrival of the Americans, as, without a single prose- lyte on shore to boast of, he was very glad to have his cause strengthened by the presence of so many fellow Christians. Dr. Bettelheim was at once re- ceived by the Commodore, who, in accordance with the suggestions of his visitor, resolved upon sending an embassy to the authorities at Napha, to demand an immediate interview with the Regent of Lew ་ REJECTED OFFERINGS. 95 Dr. Bettelheim's Residence. Chew, who was said to be ruling in behalf of a young king, some ten or eleven years of age. On the next day, early in the morning, the two Lew Chewan visitors presented themselves again, bringing in their train four boats, containing a bullock, several pigs, a white goat, some fowls, vegetables, and eggs, which were offered as presents from the authori- ties. The Commodore, however, sent orders that they should be refused, and the Lew Chewans, much put out at the refusal, paddled back very disconsolately to the shore with their presents. The Lew Chewans seem to think that the only object of the visits of foreigners to their country is to get something to eat; and, accor- dingly, their first movement, on the arrival of a strange ship, is to send on board of her an assortment of eatables such as might stock a butcher or a green- grocer's establishment. In the course of the day a lieutenant was sent, in --- EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 96 company with the Chinese interpreter, to call on the mayor of Napha, to demand an interview on behalf of Commodore Perry with the Regent. The Ameri- cans were courteously received, and treated to soups and sweetmeats, and a closing pipe of tobacco. The mayor seemed deeply wounded that his presents had not been accepted, but was relieved somewhat when he was told that it was against the American laws for our functionaries to receive presents. He promised that the Regent should be duly informed of the Com- modore's desire to see him; and although he seemed to be very anxious to impress his visitors with the greatness of that high dignitary, assured them that he would, no doubt, so far condescend as to visit the Sus- quehanna on the following day. On the ships coming to anchor the Commodore had signaled, "No communication with the shore!” This injunction was strictly obeyed, although with a feeling of great disappointment, as it was difficult to repress the curiosity all felt to extend their experiences among the strange people on land, and to wander among the beautiful groves and over the verdant hills, which looked so provokingly inviting to those impris- oned on board ship. The arrival of the store-ship Supply, the setting out of the survey party to examine the depth and bearings of the harbor, the movements on shore and among the fleet of large-eyed junks moored in the inner bay, several of which vessels put to sea in the course of the morning, were the chief incidents of the second day. The junks were supposed to be bound for Japan, where they were probably hurrying to VISIT OF REGENT. 97 convey the news of the arrival of the American squad- ron, that the Japanese might be prepared to give a warm welcome to the intrusive Yankees, about whose reception there were all kinds of sinister rumors. The day (Saturday, 30th May, 1853,) appointed for the visit of the Regent had arrived, and every thing looked propitious for the occasion. The weather, for two days previous rainy and unsettled, had cleared up, and though the heat was great, the glare of the hot sun was occasionally veiled by shifting clouds, the shadows of which chased each other rapidly over the beautiful landscape, varying perpetually the tints of green which freshly colored the fields of rice, and the rich tropical vegetation which covered the hills and filled the valleys of the island. Every thing was in readiness on board the Com- modore's flag-ship, for the reception of the august vis- itor expected. The marines were dressed up in their full uniform of blue and white, and the officers had turned out all their gold and lace, and glittered gaily on the occasion. Shortly after mid-day three native boats were seen to put off from the coral reef below Napha, and they soon came paddling along in the direction of the Susquehanna. There was nothing very regal-looking about the craft, or any thing which would seem to betoken that they were conveying a representative of royalty. They were, however, well- manned with some thirty oarsmen or more, and con- tained, in addition to the Regent, a numerous suite of various Lew Chew dignitaries and attendants. When the boat in which the Regent was seated had reached the gangway, an inferior official stepped 5 98 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. out, and coming up on the deck presented one of the usual gigantic red visiting cards, which, in accordance with our own practice, was meant merely as an an- nouncement of the Regent's arrival. Mr. Williams, the Chinese interpreter, was summoned to do duty on the occasion, and having perused the inscription, which read, "The High Officer generally Superin- tending the Kingdom of Lew Chew," the official re- turned to his boat; immediately after, that great func- tionary, the Regent himself, or to give him his full Lew Chewan title, the Tsung-li-ta-chin, made his ap- pearance, mounting the gangway with the composure that became so dignified and venerable a personage, and assisted up the sides of the steamer by two of his attendants. He was received at the gangway by two officers of the ship in full uniform, and no sooner had he put his foot on the deck than a salute of three guns was fired off. The composure of the Regent did not seem at all disturbed by the explosion, but the equa- nimity and centre of gravity of some of his suite were so far unsettled, that they dropped upon their knees. The party was composed of about a score of Lew Chewans in all, one half of whom were men of supe- rior station, and the rest subordinates and attendants. The Regent was the most striking looking personage among them. According to his own account he was only fifty-five years of age, but his long white beard and general venerableness of aspect gave him the look of a patriarch of fourscore at least. The Regent wore a red hatchee-matchee, as did also some of the other higher dignitaries, while the less distinguished officials sported the inferior yellow THE COMMODORE REVEALS HIMSELF. 99 caps. The various grades of the officers of govern- ment are marked by the color of their hatchee- matchees, the highest wearing rose-red ones, and the lower yellow. These Lew Chewan gentlemen, according to their barbarian notions, thought it polite to remain covered in company, until they had asked permission to un- cap themselves. Accordingly, although they were continually making the usual salaams of clapping their hands upon their brows, and bowing down to the ground with a suppleness that showed evidently that their politeness was habitual,-for such elasticity of back could only be acquired by constant practice -they kept their hatchee-matchees on their heads, even after they had ascended into the state cabin of the Commodore. They were, however, graciously permitted to uncover themselves after a polite request to that effect-a permission which they gladly re- ceived, as the heat of the weather, and the excitement of the occasion, seemed to have considerably elevated their temperature, in spite of the active fluttering of their fans. The Commodore now for the first time revealed himself to the Lew Chewans, having hitherto pre- served the most profound seclusion. The highest dig- nitary, however, of the kingdom having presented himself with due state and ceremony, there was no further occasion for reserve, as the Lew Chewans were evidently impressed with the necessity of be- stowing all that ceremonious respect their Oriental notions teach them to exact from others. After the usual preliminary courtesies, the Cçm- 100 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. modore stated to the Regent, through the inter- preter, the object of his visit to Lew Chew. He had come, he said, to remain in the harbor of Napha until the arrival of the rest of his squadron before proceeding to Japan. In the mean time he desired the consent of the Regent for the officers to visit the shore for the purpose of relaxation and obser- vation. He would like, moreover, to have supplies of fresh provisions, but would only consent to take them on condition that a fair price was received in return. The Lew Chewan visitors were then invited to par- take of refreshments, and shared with apparent gusto in the cakes and wines with which they were served. Pipes and tobacco succeeded the repast, and the Re- gent, with great formality and politeness offered his services to the Commodore in filling his pipe, which were accepted and reciprocated. All the demands of the Commodore were unresist- ingly acceeded to, but with an air of nervous anxiety, showing that the Regent was actuated more by his fears than his desires. As he rose to depart the Com- modore promised to return his visit at the Palace of Sheudi, a notification which seemed greatly to startle the old man. On coming out from the interview, the Lew Chewan party were conducted over the steamer, but they regarded every thing with an air of stolid com- posure; the great guns, the groups of sailors, the lines of armed marines, and the band of music, which struck up a lively air as the Regent and his suite passed on, did not seem to excite the least interest. Upon being shown the engine, however, there was some apparent GOING ASHORE. 101 curiosity upon their grave and unruffled faces, which were ordinarily as unmoved as if wrought in bronze. The Regent and his suite, after having made the cir- cuit of the ship from stem to stern, and deck to hold, took their departure, being honored, as upon their arrival, with a salvo of three guns. One good effect of their visit, which was appre- ciated by all on board, was the permission for the officers to go on shore, a privilege they were not slow in availing themselves of. Soon some thirty or forty officers, with leave from their respective ships, were off for a visit to the town of Napha. The town of Napha commences from the very edge of the surf-whitened coral shore, and extends along for some distance by the water side and up the ac- clivities of the surrounding hills. The streets are regular, remarkably clean, and neat-looking. The houses are built of bamboo, covered with roofs of red tiles, and surrounded with gardens, which are inclosed within high walls of coral. These walls are built up with great regularity, and surmounted with hedges of cactus, from above the tops of which project palm and banana-trees. The walled houses would have a very prison-like look, were it not for the cheer- ful and comfortable air given them by their pretty gardens and snug appointments. As soon as the Americans landed most of the in- habitants, after having paused a while to take a glance at the strangers, made off rapidly, in order to avoid all communication. The shopkeepers quickly closed their shops, and the street peddlers dispersed in such haste that they left their stocks behind them. The 1 102 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. better class of people, however, were not quite so shy, and although they looked somewhat askance at their visitors, stood still as they passed, and made them the most profound salutations. Some of these, with their flowing robes and long beards, made a most venerable appearance, and had such a benevolence of aspect, that the American officers felt quite disposed to strike up an acquaintance, but no sooner did they approach with the most friendly intentions, than these Lew Chew- an gentry turned upon their heels and disappeared. The different classes of people are distinguished Natives of Lew Chew. by their costumes. The highest wear the variously colored hatchee-matchees, while the middle and lower classes generally go bareheaded. The hair-pins are also important indications of rank. The gold and sil- THE CITIZENS. 103 ver ones marking the superior, and those of brass the inferior. The more respectable citizens, such as the Low Chew Merchant. merchants and the thriving tradesmen, wear, with the exception of the colored caps, very much the same 104 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. kind of dress in cut as the dignitaries. Their flowing robes are usually of grass-cloth, either of a gray or yellow color, which are gathered in at the waist with blue silk girdles, in which there is always thrust the small pipe and the tobacco-pouch, for they are uni- versal smokers. The hair is shaved on the crown, but being allowed to grow to a great length behind, is worn gathered up to the top of the head, where it is fastened by two long pins, thrust lengthwise. The lowest class of all, composed of the mechanics, peas- ants, and laborers, have but a scant shirt-like cover- ing of coarse cotton, while their children run about entirely naked. The women, of whom it was difficult to get a sight, and whose appearance, when seen, was not such as to cause any disappointment at their shyness-for they were awfully ugly-were dressed very much like the men. They, however, wore their robes of grass-cloth without any confining girdle about the waist, and were limited to a single hair-pin. They should have been entitled to the full complement of the Lew Chewan dress, for it evidently must have originally belonged to the female wardrobe, as it, after all, was little else than an expanded petticoat, while the long hair and hair-pins were unquestionably of the feminine gender. Somehow or other a reversed social revolu- tion had taken place in Lew Chew, and the men had assumed the petticoat instead of the women, as with us, usurping the breeches. The Lew Chewan males, too, seemingly had availed themselves of the feminine privilege of doing comparatively nothing, while the women were kept hard at work, daubing cabinet-ware WOMEN-WORKERS. 105 ARP S D H = CC X.5 Lew Chew Peasant. with dirty lacquer, hoeing sweet potatoes in the fields, and vending coarse cheese-cakes and dabs of ginger- 5* 106 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. bread in the market-place and at the street corners. They had retained, however, that quality of the sex which is believed to be universal from New York to Lew Chew-female curiosity; for the women of Napha, old and young, were observed peeping round the lanes, and listening through the chinks of the coral walls whenever they found a chance. The American officers were disposed, with a natu ral curiosity, to extend their observations over the island; and, on their first visit ashore, a party of them were tempted to ramble far out of the town. As they passed through the suburbs, along the stream which flows through the town, and over the bridge which led into the beautiful neighboring country, with a charming landscape on all sides, they found them- selves dogged by a couple of very respectable-looking Lew Chewans, who were evidently engaged in the disreputable business of acting as spies upon them. As soon as the Americans moved a step from the beaten road, these sharp-eyed fellows beckoned to them to keep the regular path. They might beckon, however, they were not attended to; and our coun- trymen pursued their way, for, with feet accustomed to step upon a land of freedom, they were not pre- pared to go and come at any one's bidding. The country in the neighborhood of Napha is strik- ingly picturesque, with its surrounding hills rising one above the other to the mountainous districts in the interior. The sides of the hills are highly culti- vated, with rich fields of grain, separated by hedges of cactus, while the sheltered valleys are crowded with a tropical vegetation of the wild orange, the BEAUTY OF COUNTRY. 107 banana, and the luxuriant palm, and the summits of the mountains are crowned with groves of the dark pine, throwing a wide and deep shade, like that of the cedars of Lebanon. A well paved road, as smooth and even as if macadamized, made of broken coral, driven into the soil beneath, extends to the neighbor- ing villages and the capital of Sheudi. This is bor- dered by beautiful gardens, within the coral-walled inclosures of which snug houses of bamboo repose in shady groves. Along the road some horsemen were moving briskly upon their little high-spirited Lew Chew nags, out apparently for an airing. The roads and bridges show a very creditable degree of atten- tion on the part of the authorities to the internal im- KIWERTC. SA Lew Chew Bridge. provements of the island. The bridges, in fact, are quite respectable specimens of masonry, being massive and scientifically constructed. 108 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. But to return to the Commodore, who still re- mained on board of his ship, with a resolute determi- nation to carry out the purposes of his visit, and not to budge until he had secured those advantages for his country which were evidently uppermost in his mind. He had organized a party of his officers and men to make an exploration of the island, who were accordingly dispatched on that duty. In the mean time the Commodore carried on his negotiations with the Lew Chew authorities. He had made the very reasonable demand to be furnished with a house for the accommodation of the officers on shore, and had offered to pay a fair rent. After some equivocation, in accordance with the usual Lew Chewan policy, this request was granted, and a building was desig- nated. The temple at Tumai, a village situated on the outskirts of Napha, on the road to Sheudi, was the selected place, and accordingly an officer was sent by the Commodore to take formal possession. This building was what is called a Cung-qua, a place of entertainment for strangers, and for various public purposes. Although not so luxuriously ap- pointed as the Koung-kouans or Communal Palaces in China, the Comfort of which Père Huc describes with such gusto, the temple at Tumai was for a simi- lar purpose. There were some thirty mats spread on the floor, and waiters were at hand with tea and pipes, so when the officer and his party arrived they were hospitably entertained. In a short time, however, an official made his appearance, and although he showed an excess of politeness by constantly bowing to the ground, he declared, when he was told the object of AN UNSUCCESSFUL RUSE. 109 the visit of the officer, that it was quite impossible for the Americans to have a house on shore. By some means or other this accomplished Lew Chewan had acquired enough English to deliver himself thus: "Gentleman, Doo Choo man very small-American man not very small-I read of American in book— Washington very good man-very good-Doo-Choo good friend American-Doo Choo man give Ameri- can man all eat he want-American no have house on shore." The upshot of the matter was, that one of the officers and the interpreter did sleep upon two of the mats all that night, in the temple of Tumai. However, on the next day, the authorities of Napha sent word to the Commodore that they wished the building vacated, to which they received the reply, that it would be done provided another suitable place was substi- tuted, but that the Americans were determined to have a house on shore at all hazards, as such a privilege had been granted to previous visitors, as, for example, to the English, at the time of Basil Hall's visit to the island. Another building, with the high-sounding title of "Shunghein"-"The Holy Presence Temple protecting the Anchorage "-was accordingly appro- priated. The Lew Chewans were resolved to throw every obstruction in the way of the Commodore by their shuffling conduct and prevaricating policy, but he was conscious of their manoeuvres, and was re- solved to defeat them by his direct and resolute bearing. The expressed resolution of the Commodore to re turn the visit of the Regent within the palace of Sheudi, had apparently created a great deal of anxiety 110 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. on the part of the authorities, and they seemed re- solved to prevent it if possible. They sent word that it was contrary to all precedent, and expressly forbid- den by their laws, for a stranger to intrude within the sanctuary of the palace. Receiving no satisfactory answer to this protest, the Lew Chewans thought themselves of trying a ruse upon the Commodore, and made the attempt to entrap him into an informal visit upon the Regent by preparing a feast at Napha, where that dignitary would be present, and to which the Commodore was invited. Just at that time, how- ever, the Commodore found it convenient to attend to the dispatch of the storeship, Caprice, for Shang- hai, and sent word that "business unfortunately pre- vented his acceptance of the polite invitation," etc. The Lew Chewans, however, were not to be balked of their cunning civility, and as the Commo- dore would not go to the feast, they sent the feast to him, and accordingly two of the high functionaries in yellow caps came off to the ship with a supply of poultry, fish, vegetables, fruits, and cakes, all pre- pared in the highest style of Lew Chewan cookery, which were displayed upon the deck of the Susque- hanna. The Commodore, however, kept himself se- cluded within his cabin, and left the banquet to be discussed by his officers and men, who found Lew Chew fare quite appetizing, and soon cleared the decks. The Commodore now informed the authori- ties that his promised visit to the palace would cer- tainly come off on Monday, the 6th of June, after the return of the exploring party. The demand of the Commodore to be supplied QUEENS SICKNESS-A SHAM. 111 with provisions, on the sole condition of his paying for them, was granted, after a show of considerable reluctance, and, accordingly, a daily supply was brought off by the natives to the ship, which was duly paid for in cash-the Chinese copper money. Notwithstanding the primitive simplicity which Basil Hall, in his romantic narrative, has been pleased to attribute to the Lew Chewans, who, he states, had no idea of money, it was found that they were sufficiently acquainted with cash, of which they demanded 1750- instead of 1400, the Chinese valuation, to the dollar. If this arose from their ignorance of the true value, or from want of familiarity with the coin, at any rate their ignorance told very much to the advantage of their own pockets. These daily supplies were entirely regulated by the authorities, who pocketed all the profit, while the loss fell to the share of the poor na- tives from whom the supplies were wrung. The visit to Sheudi was the hardest morsel for the Lew Chewan authorities to swallow, and they hemmed and coughed, and tried to put it off by all manner of imaginable deceit and trickery. The Regent de- spatched a diplomatic missive, beautifully inscribed on a long roll of the softest of their bark-woven paper, in lines of Chinese characters, painted in India ink with a camel's-hair pencil. The roll was inclosed in an envelope, and duly sealed with the regal arms. The purport of this communication was to persuade the Commodore not to proceed to the palace of Sheudi, on the plea of the illness of the Queen Dowa- ger, who had received such a shock from the visit of an English admiral, who had obstinately intruded 112 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. himself within the sacred precincts of the palace some two years ago, that she had not yet recovered, and, wrote the Regent, another such a visit might be the death of her Majesty, the royal mother. The Com- modore, in answer, expressed his deep sorrow for the affliction of the Queen Dowager, and very humanely offered to send her one of his skilful surgeons, who would undoubtedly set the royal lady all right again; but as he took quite a different view of the case of her Majesty, he did not believe that his presence could act otherwise than favorably, as her mind would be diverted by the novel sight of the Ameri- can visitors. The Commodore, therefore, reiterated his determination to go to the palace of Sheudi, as he believed this reputed sickness of the King's mother was all a sham. In fact, the youthful King and the Queen Dowager were suspected, at times, to be no more of realities than was Mrs. Harris, and to this day, it is by no means certain whether Lew Chew has any other than an imaginary family reigning over it. The Americans, in the mean time, made themselves quite at home within the dominions of the putative young King, and went about their daily business with as much ease as if they had been in the Navy Yard at Brooklyn. The survey boats were out daily on duty, the marines were going through their daily ex- ercises on shore, the officers were skylarking through the streets and neighborhood of Napha, and the tem- ple at Tumai was all alive with the busy doings of the artists and the working men of the Expedition. CHAPTER V. THE party sent by the Commodore to explore the interior of Great Lew Chew, now returned, after an absence of a week. This island is far the largest of the whole group, of which there are thirty-six in all. Great Lew Chew is thirty to forty miles long, and twelve to fifteen wide. Situated between twenty-six and twenty- seven degrees of north latitude, with a rich soil, a delightful climate, and a mingled vegetation of tem- perate and tropical countries, there can be no place to surpass it in the prodigality of Nature's gifts. The exploration had extended over one half of the island, in the course of which nearly one hundred and eight miles had been travelled. The course was, in accordance with the Commodore's orders, first across Great Lew Chew to the east, and thence along the northern coast, and back through the interior of the island. The authorities had not been previously in- formed of the intended exploration, but so much were they on the alert in regard to every movement of the Americans, that the party had hardly started when they were overtaken, on the paved road which leads 114 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. to Sheudi, by a portly personage, accompanied by two younger officers, with black beards and swarthy com- plexions, and about a dozen attendants. These men presented themselves as guides, but were evidently very sharp-sighted and scrutinizing spies. A crowd of curious natives had also collected and followed the explorers for some distance out of the city of Napha. The four Chinese coolie attendants having showed early symptoms of breaking down under their loads of baggage, the portly old Lew Chewan officer, who seemed to be the chief in charge, was requested to supply a substitute. Accordingly, four spry natives. were soon summoned from the neighborhood, who came up with bamboo poles and relieved the coolies, who were a set of lazy vagabonds, of one half of their load. The Lew Chewan leader, whose title was Pe-ching, or treasurer, was a venerable man with a snow-white beard and most benevolent aspect. He, as well as his companions, proved to be of inexhaustible good nature. They were most tenacious, however, of their particular functions as spies, and were always on the alert, by night or by day. They clung to the heels of the party with the tenacity of so many hounds, and every attempt to shake them off proved fruitless. It was useless to strive to tire them out by rapid walking and the most preposterously hard day's work. They would not be tired out. The pursy old Pe-ching was led many a hard march up hill and down, and al- though he seemed every moment in danger of giving out, he always, somehow or other, recovered his breath in time to save his lungs, and was never com- PE-CHING AND SPIES. 115 pletely blown. his sense of all this useless fatigue, by a very significant way he had of slapping his stout flanks, as if to whip on their flagging energies, but he never fairly gave out, as he was undoubtedly bound, to use a cant phrase, to see the Americans through. He would, it is true, often express The Pe-ching, though nominally a guide, had been evidently appointed by the Lew Chewan authorities to act as a spy, and make a full report of the journey. He faithfully performed his functions, and took good care that his subordinates should perform theirs. And, as if three were not sufficient, care was taken to re- cruit the force at every stopping-place, so that the party was constantly dogged by a full pack. No sooner were all snugly quartered for the night and supper over, than Pe-ching and his confederates would pull out their paper, their brushes, and India ink, and paint down line after line of puzzling hieroglyphics, which were supposed to express the results of the day. The scenery of the country was most charming, presenting a beautiful combination of cultivated fields and wild tropical vegetation. Green rice, in rich growth, waved through the valleys, covering the banks of the streams, and growing down to the verge of the sea-shore. There was, in the various artificial arrangements for irrigation, an indication of consid- erable agricultural skill, and in the richness and abun- dance of the various crops of sugar, corn, and millet, signs of great fertility and wealth of product. Vats of salt, showing an extensive manufacture of that article of universal consumption, were frequently seen by the borders of the rivers and along the sea-shore. 116 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. Village after village, as they were approached, presented a succession of most charming prospects. Here one was reposing in a beautiful valley, by the side of a running stream, with the green fields rising from the water, and extending far over the undulating hills which bounded the scene, and were cultivated to their very summits; and there another lay almost hid away in groves of sago-palm and banana, while a third closed the vista through a long avenue of waving bamboo, whose bending tops united and formed a natural arched hall, through the leafy roof of which the sun's rays, as they passed, lost their glare, and re- freshed the eye with a cool, green-tinted light, which pervaded the shaded interior. Bamboo Village. The inhabitants of the village, under the severe eyes of the corps of spies who accompanied the party, were very shy. The women were especially reserved, and would drop down their mats before their doors and windows as soon as they heard the approaching SHY NATIVES. 117 step of one of the strange visitors, and if such should slyly come upon them and take them unawares, they would immediately let go their spinning-wheels, or leave any other household occupation, and either pros- trate themselves imploringly on the ground, or run away and hide themselves behind the screens or in the lofts of their bamboo houses. One of the explor- ers came suddenly upon a hut, in one of the villages, in which there was an old woman and a girl of twelve years of age, both of whom fell upon their knees at his approach, and held up their hands imploringly. A few friendly words, although in English, seemed to quiet their alarm, and the explorer was about entering the hut, with their apparent good will, when some of the ever present spies came up and drove them away. It was thus almost impossible to get a chance of seeing any thing of the interior life of the people of the country, for the inhabitants either ran away or were dispersed by the spies, as soon as an American presented himself. At night, however, when the ex- plorers were lodged in one of the Cung-quas, the Lew Chewan men, women, and children would throng about the inclosures, and peep through the chinks or over the tops of the walls, with the hope of catching a sight of the strangers, without being seen by the objects of their curiosity, or by the ever watchful eyes of the spies. The Americans found snug quarters in the various Cung-quas, or government hotels, provided as resting places for the officials at the public expense. These are large wooden buildings, with bamboo verandahs, and various compartments, separated by sliding par- 118 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. titions, which can be readily shifted, allowing the whole interior to be opened into one large hall. Ser- vitors were always in attendance, ready to provide the necessary supplies of fowls, eggs, cucumbers, rice, and tea, for the suppers, and to spread the mats for the repose of the tired visitors at night. Many of the Cung-quas are beautifully situated on picturesque sites, and are shaded by the waving bam- boo and sago palm, while their walls inclose garden plots, regularly laid out, and adorned with flowers of the white and red camellia, the scarlet and orange- colored mallow, and the beautiful wax plant, all of which grow naturally upon the island. In the course of their wanderings, the explorers were surprised by the discovery of an ancient fortress, occupying a commanding position upon the summit of one of the spurs of the central ridge, which extends through the island. Its outline was irregular, but with a general direction from north-east to south- west; and while some parts of it were in perfect pre- servation, other portions were overgrown with vines and shrubbery, and hardly to be distinguished from the natural rock upon which it was based. Passing through an arched gateway, the road led to a terrace overgrown with trees, upon which stood a structure of masonry, resembling a cenotaph. A flight of stone steps conducted to another gateway, through which, and a spacious vestibule, was an entrance to the inte- rior of the fortress. The space was occupied by a luxurious grove of trees, and at the farther end was a private dwelling of respectable appearance. A flight of steep steps, cut in the rock, led downward on the ! ANCIENT RUIN. 119 northern side to a grotto under the foundation of the castle, at the bottom of which was a pool of cold, sweet water. The place was completely overhung by dense foliage, and inaccessible to the beams of the sun. The material of the building was limestone, and the masonry of admirable construction. The stones, some of which were cubes of four feet square, were so carefully hewn and jointed that the absence of any mortar or cement did not seem to impair the dura- bility of the work. There were two remarkable points about the work. The arches were double, the lower course being formed of two stones hewn into almost a parabolic curve, and meeting in the centre, over which was the regular Egyptian arch, with its key-stone, as represented in the annexed outline, No. 1. 11 лог The other peculiarity was, that in place of bas- tions, there were square projections of masonry, pre- 120 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. senting a concave front (No. 2), which would catch and concentrate the force of a cannon ball, rather than ward it off. But this fortress must have been erected many centuries before the use of fire-arms of any kind could have been known to the Lew Chewans. The Chinese attendants pretended to give the name of the place as Ching-King, which are Chinese words, signifying the chief or capital citadel. Nor were the ruins of the castle the only remnants of antiquity. The travellers came upon several stones of four feet in height planted in the earth, which the natives termed ishee, but which appeared to be lin- gams, or emblems of the Phallic worship. The stone. of which they were composed was of a dark color, re- sembling porphyry. If lingams, their presence would seem to indicate some connection of the island, pro- bably at a very remote period, with India, where the Phallic worship is a feature of the Hindoo religion. In conjunction with these curious remains, the face of a hill, behind where they were found, for a distance of two miles, was quarried out with excava- tions resembling the simpler forms of the rock tombs of Egypt and Syria. The natives, when questioned about them, replied that they were "the houses of the devil's men," and seemed to hold them in no little contempt. This, as the Lew Chewans are remarkably reverent of the memorials of their dead, would seem to prove that the tombs belonged to an earlier and different people. The explorers thus, day after day, travelled on, in the enjoyment of repeated visions of the beautiful landscape, where the wildness of nature contrasted 1 VISIT TO SHEUDI. 121 with the most exquisite culture, and under the plea- surable excitement of ever-recurring daily incident and adventure, among a people both curious and novel. They soon, however, were forced, as their time had expired, to retrace their steps, and accordingly re- turned to the ships, where they prepared to partici- pate in the coming event of the visit to Sheudi, about which every officer and man in the whole squadron was all agog. On Monday morning, June 6th, at an early hour, a dozen or more boats, launches, cutters, gigs, and other small craft, pushed off for the shore, loaded with officers in full uniform, the marines, with their bayo- neted muskets, and in their gay dress of blue and white, and the sailors, with their black tarpaulins and their neat navy shirts. They were soon followed by the Commodore, in full feather, seated in his state barge, who, upon landing, was received, in behalf of the Lew Chewan authorities, by Pe-ching, the portly old gentleman who had accompanied the explorers, and by the U. S. marines, who, forming into, two lines, presented arms as the Commodore passed between them. The procession was now formed at the village of Tumai, on the outskirts of Napha, at about two miles from Sheudi, with hundreds of the natives, gathered from the neighborhood, looking on in the distance at the novel show. First came a park of artillery, con- sisting of two field-pieces, over each of which waved the American flag, borne by a stout sailor; then the interpreters, succeeded by the ships' bands, striking up a succession of lively airs, and a company of ma- 6 122 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. rines, followed by the Commodore in his sedan chair. This sedan chair was an extemporaneous affair, got up for the occasion by the ship's carpenter, and although it was somewhat rudely constructed, and not very elaborately adorned, was altogether, from its size, a more comfortable conveyance than the native kagoo, the only kind of Lew Chewan carriage extant. The kagoo is a mere box, about two feet in height, which puzzles one vastly to get into, and to keep in when he is there. The rider is forced to double himself into all the folds his arms, legs, and the extent of suppleness of his back will admit. He is obliged to sit cross-legged, arms folded, back doubled, and neck bent; and then, as he is carried by a couple of quick-moving natives, jogging along, he is remind- ed, by the repeated knockings of his head against the hard wooden roof, that all his packing has been in vain, and that the contents of the kagoo are quite too large for its capacity. The Commodore, therefore, with a due regard for his comfort, had provided himself with a sizable sedan chair, which was borne on the shoulders of four Chi- nese coolies from the ship, with a relay of four others to divide the labor. On either side of the sedan walked two marines as body-guards, and the Chinese servant of the Commodore; while, immediately be- hind, several coolies came, carrying the presents, wrapped in red cloth. The officers of the ships then succeeded, followed by another company of marines, which brought up the rear. The number, all told, amounted to more than two hundred; and as they moved along, with flags flying in the breeze, the ARRIVAL AT PALACE. 123 sword-hilts and bayonets, and the golden adornments and bright uniforms of the officers and soldiers flash- ing in the sun's light, and the bands playing a stir- ring tune, they presented quite a cheerful spectacle, which the Lew-Chewans seemed to enjoy wondrously, as they collected every where by the roadside, and looked on with evident marks of delight-making holiday of the occasion. The road lay along a paved causeway, which led from Napha to the summit of the hill upon which the town and palace of Sheudi rose high to the view. Along this road was a succession, on either side, of fertile rice-fields and beautiful gardens, and as the procession advanced, reaching the higher ground, a fine view was obtained of the whole circuit of the island. On approaching the capital, its houses were seen grouped upon the acclivity of a hill, and almost hid in thick foliage, while upon the summit rose high above the other buildings, the fortress-like royal palace. The procession now passed, at the entrance to the city, through a gate of wood, high-arched above, and inscribed with certain characters, which signified "The Central Hill," or "The Place of Authority." Sheudi, the capital and residence of tlre putative young monarch, was once the central one of three for- tresses, each of which was the residence of a king, according to the ancient tradition, which records that the island of Great Lew Chew was formerly divided into three dynasties. The ruins of Nagugusko are supposed to be the remains of the residence of the king who ruled over the north; and another ruin, at the 124 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. southern part of the island, called Timagusko, seems to indicate the site of the fortress of the king of the south; while the palace of Sheudi, the seat of the present monarch, was the fortified position of the dy- nasty of the middle kingdom, which finally absorbed the two others, and still retains its title of "The Cen- tral Hill.” There were three passages through the gate-a central and two side ones the former being exclusively for the higher classes. It was through this, of course, that the procession made its way out into the wide and almost deserted main street of Sheudi, which, bounded on either side by high coral walls, in- closing the residences of the inhabitants, and intersect- ed by narrow lanes, led to the palace. A throng of officials, in their gay, flowing robes, with wide sleeves, red and yellow hatchee-matchees, with fans, umbrellas, and chow-chow boxes, being in full toilet for the occasion, met the procession with many profound salutations, and finding that the Com- modore was not to be diverted from his resolution, conducted it to the palace. This was an irregular structure of wood, surrounded by a succession of walls, through which opened arched entrances, at one of which were two lofty pillars of stone, and a couple of full-sized, rudely carved lions. The Commodore, accompanied by his suite, was ushered into a hall of no great size, and of no great pretensions as to ornament or furniture; it had, however, a high-sounding title, if the interpreter cor- rectly translated the characters in gold which were inscribed at the head of the room, and which were said to mean, "The elevated inclosure of fragrant THE REGENT'S QUARTERS. 125 festivities." The hall was partly screened off by paper partitions, from behind which it was suspected that the Queen-mother, if there were such, was gratify- ing her royal curiosity. The American officers were conducted to seats, which were very like camp-stools, and placed on the right of the room, while the Re- gent and the other Lew Chewan dignitaries took their position on the left. - After a ceremonious interchange of compliments, the Americans were invited to partake of some re- freshments, which were evidently very hastily got up, and consisted of cups of dilute tea, dabs of tough gin- gerbread, and tobacco. The Regent had evidently calculated upon his powers of persuasion to divert the Commodore from his fixed purpose of visiting the royal palace, and, accordingly, no preparation had been made for his reception. The Commodore now invited the Regent to visit him on board ship, after his return from an expedition he proposed to the Bonin Islands, which would be, probably, in the course of ten days. This invitation was accepted with many pro- found salutations, and the presents being proffered, which were politely received but hardly looked at, the Americans, at the solicitation of the Regent, ad- journed to that dignitary's house, which was not far off, being situated in a neighboring lane which inter- sected the main street. There was nothing very regal about the Regent's residence, it being a wooden house, of the ordinary style of those of the city, with a court-yard and bam- boo verandas, but rather larger in size. The in- terior was plain but neat, with wooden rafters, 126 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. painted of a red color, and its floors spread with matting. Every thing here was in readiness for a feast, and no sooner had the Commodore entered with his offi- cers, than they were invited to take their seats at the well-spread boards. There were ten tables in all-four in the central part of the hall, and three in each of its wings. At the two upper ones, on the right, the Com- modore and his chief officers were seated, and at the same number, on the left, the Regent presided, assist- ed by some of the chief dignitaries of the island. The tables were heaped with the choicest Lew Chewan fare, consisting of a heterogeneous collection of strange dishes, that no one but an expert of the Lew Chewan cuisine, or some native Monsieur Soyer, could possibly describe. Numerous dignified-looking attendants, robed in long garments, were in waiting, and commenced the feast by handing round cups of tea, followed by earthen goblets, no bigger than thim- bles, overflowing with sakee, the native liquor dis- tilled from rice. These Lilliputian bumpers would not have floored a flea. Then the guests, arming themselves with the pairs of chopsticks at their sides, commenced the general attack upon the spread be- fore them. Surrounded as they were by an immense variety, and without any knowledge of Lew Chewan cookery to direct them, they made an indiscriminate charge upon the bits of hog's liver and of sugar-can- dy, the red slices of eggs and of cucumber, the boiled fish and mustard, the fried beef, and the tender mor- sels of various somethings, which, as there was no bill of fare, it was impossible to tell what, although it was THE FEAST. 127 suspected they might be dog, cat, rat, or some other choice viand. In addition to the dishes on the table, the waiters were constantly bringing in a succession of courses in rude earthen bowls, until they amounted to twelve, eight of which were different kinds of soup, and the rest were gingerbread, doughnuts, cab- bage-sprouts, and an herb something like our calamus. The Commodore, somewhere about the middle of the feast, calling upon the company to fill their cups with sakee, proposed the health of the Queen-dowager, her royal son, and the toast, "Prosperity to the Lew Chewans, and may they and the Americans always be friends!" This was then put into Chinese by Mr. Williams, for the benefit of the official interpreter of the Regent, a sharp-eyed youth, whose name was Ichi-raz-ichi. This young gentleman had been edu- cated at Pekin, where he remained three years. He could speak a little English, but the Chinese was the language used for communication. He had some knowledge both of the history and Geography of the United States, and spoke familiarly of Washington, whom he called a "very great mandarin." Ichi-raz- ichi turned the toast and sentiment of the Commodore into the Lew Chewan lingua for the behoof of his master, who received them with very evident marks of satisfaction, and taking up his thimbleful of sakee, drank it to its last dregs, and slapped down the tiny cup bottom upward upon the table, to show that he was a fair drinker, and a man above heel-taps. Sev- eral toasts and healths succeeded, and the dinner hav- ing reached the end of the twelfth course, the Com- modore and his party took their departure, and, form- 128 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. ing in procession as before, returned to Tumai and embarked on board ship. The Commodore now prepared for his visit to the Bonin Islands. The pursers were sent ashore to set- tle the accounts with the authorities of Napha for the various supplies which had been furnished to the ships, and to distribute some gifts, principally com- posed of silk handkerchiefs and American cotton stuffs, among various officers of the government. The au- thorities, after some hesitation, were prevailed upon to receive payment, and the Commodore congratu- lated himself that he had established at Lew Chew, for the first time, the practice of paying for provisions supplied to foreign vessels. The daguerreotype art- ists of the Expedition were fixed, with all their ap- paratus, in a house on shore, ready to commence operations on the strange people and picturesque scenery of Lew Chew. An officer and two men were also stationed on land, near where a tide-staff had been planted, and were prepared to make observa- tions, and the sick of the squadron were landed and housed on the outskirts of the village of Tumai, where they were kindly served by the inhabitants. CHAPTER VI. THE Commodore got under way and sailed for the Bonin Islands, on the morning of the ninth of June, in the steamer Susquehanna, with the Saratoga in tow. The steamship Mississippi, together with the storeship Supply, were left at Napha, while the chief officer in command, Commander Lee, was strict-ly enjoined to exercise all possible kindness in his in- tercourse with the people. The Susquehanna took a southern course around the extremity of the island. This portion of Lew Chew, though picturesque, with its hills and valleys, did not seem to be so fertile or well cultivated as the eastern and western shores. In the course of the af- ternoon, Lew Chew sank beneath the horizon, and the steamer held on her course, east by north, at the rate of eight knots an hour. At first there was a light wind from the south-west, which, however, soon died away, but it was not long before the vessels came within the influence of the favorable gales of the monsoon, which filled their sails. Though the steam- er had the Saratoga in tow, and used but three of her 6* 130 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. boilers, she made nine and a-half knots. This speed, however, was somewhat lessened afterward by a strong current from the eastward, in spite of which, how- ever, the progress, with the south-west monsoon con- tinuing to blow, was very good. There was nothing to interrupt the uniformity of sea life during the passage, except a death on board the Susquehanna. When Mr. Williams came from China to join the squadron at Lew Chew, as inter- preter, he brought with him an old Chinaman, who had been his teacher, and who, it was supposed, might be useful in future operations; but it was very soon apparent that the old man's race was nearly run. He was a victim of opium smoking, which he was at- tempting to abandon. The consequences of this change of habit, and the effects of sea-sickness while on board the Saratoga, during the voyage from China, prostrated him so completely that no medicines had any effect, and he sank into a state of nervelessness and emaciation painful to look upon. For a week before his death his condition had been most pitiable: every joint in his skeleton frame seemed to be in per- petual motion; his face was a ghastly yellow; his cheeks were shrunk on the bones; his eyes wild and glassy; and his mind in a state of semi-madness. Death, when it came, was a relief to the poor old man, as well as to those who saw him die. A more frightful example of the effects of the use of opium it would be difficult to find. It exceeded in horror all the terrible results of the excessive indul- gence in intoxicating drinks. The last scene of this old opium smoker was more horrible even than any- ARRIVAL AT PORT LLOYD. 131 thing exhibited in the course of delirium tremens, which is commonly known by the expressive distinc- tion of the horrors. There was something revolting also in the conduct of the Chinese on board the ship. They manifested not the least sympathy with their dying countryman. For a day or two before he died, not one of them, with the exception of one of the Commodore's servants, would go near him; and on the last night of his life, when two of the deck coolies had been ordered by the Captain to remain in the room, and were obliged to obey, they squatted down in the corner, at a distance, and never once approached him. Some of the quarter-masters gave him what he needed, and were with him when he died. On the 14th of June, at ten in the morning, the ships arrived off the entrance of Port Lloyd. The Saratoga, which had thus far been in tow of the steamer, was now cast off, and ordered to go ahead. Soon two whalers hove in sight, one on each quarter, and showing American colors, began to beat down toward the Susquehanna, anxious, probably, to know the meaning of so strange an event as the appearance of two formidable United States men-of-war in those remote waters. On arriving off the harbor, a gun was fired from the steamer, which summoned a couple of the inhabitants of the island, who came off in a rude dug-out canoe, and presented themselves as pilots. One of these bore the appearance of an ordinary American sailor. The other, however, who styled himself John Bravo, was a native of the island, the first person born there, according to his own account. He was an active young 132 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. fellow, whose lank black hair, dark eyes, milk-and-mo- lasses tint of complexion, and scant costume of straw hat and sailor's trowsers, showed him to be a compro- mise between savage life and civilization. He was in fact the mongrel offspring of an English sailor and a Sandwich Island woman. Under the guidance of these two pilots the ships soon were safely anchored in the harbor of Port Lloyd. This harbor is on the western side, and nearly in the centre of Peel Island, one of the Bonin group. It is easy of ingress and egress, and may be considered as safe and commo- dious, though of deep anchorage. The Susquehanna and the Saratoga ran within the cast of a biscuit of the shore, and anchored almost under the shade of the fresh vegetation, which crowds with its luxuriant growth the hills and valleys of the island. The Bonin Islands are situated in the Pacific, be- tween the latitudes 26° 30' and 27° 45' north, nearly five hundred miles south-east from Japan, and over eight hundred in an easterly direction from Lew Chew. The islands were visited by Captain Beechey in 1827, and were named by him as if they had then been first observed. They were, however, known long since to the Japanese, who called them Buna Sima, i. e., Islands without People. Beechey, however, took possession, in the name of King George, and gave new titles to them, calling the northern cluster Par- ry's Group; the middle cluster, consisting of three larger islands, respectively, Peel, Buckland, and Sta- pleton; and the southern cluster, Bailey's, although he himself has acknowledged that one Coffin, pro- bably a whaler out of Nantucket, had been before COLONY OF PEEL ISLAND. 133 him, and had give his name to this portion of the group. Commodore Perry, however, restored the name of Coffin to the southern cluster, and took possession of them in the name of the United States. The in- habitants of the island have discarded entirely the dignified titles of Peel and Stapleton, and call these islands by the less euphonious appellations of Hog and Goat. When Captain Beechey took possession, the date of his visit and act of appropriation were duly engraved on a copper plate, which was nailed to a tree. The plate and the tree are gone, however, and the only evidence now of British possession is the occasional hoisting of the English flag on one of the neighboring hills, a duty that was originally dele- gated to a vagabond Englishman who chanced to be on the island. The flag is now merely considered as a signal to be hoisted on the arrival of a vessel. No foreign government is recognized by the inhabitants, who declare that they have no need of any control be- yond their own, as they say that they can take good care of themselves. They have, however, since the Commodore's visit, organized a 'government, under the title of "The Colony of Peel Island," whereof it was resolved that there shall be a chief magistrate and two councilmen, to which offices Nathaniel Sa- vory, James Mailloy, and Thomas H. Webb were duly appointed. The islands of Bonin are high, bold, and rocky, and are evidently of volcanic formation. They are green with verdure and a full growth of tropical vegetation, which crowds up the acclivities of the 134 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. hills, from the very borders of the shore, which is, here and there, edged with coral reefs. The head- lands and detached rocks have been thrown by for- mer convulsions of nature, into various grotesque forms, which assume to the eye the shape of castle View of the Bonins. and tower, and strange animals of monstrous size and hideous form. Numerous canal-like passages opening in the sides of the rocky cliffs, have almost the appearance of being hewn out with the chisel, but were evidently formed in the course of volcanic changes, when the rock flowed with liquid lava, and found issue in these channels, which the torrents that come down the sides of the moun- tains in the rainy season have worn smooth by con- stant attrition. Some of these dykes, or canal-like passages, less affected by time and the washing of the water, still retain their irregular formation, which have so much the appearance of steps that the ob- server, as he looks upon them, might fancy they had been cut by the hand of man in the solid rock, for the pupose of climbing the mountain. On the Southern Head, as it is called, within the harbor of Port Lloyd, NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 135 there is a very curious natural cave or tunnel, which passes through the basaltic rock, from the Southern Head to the beach on the other side. The entrance has a width of about fifteen feet, and a height of thirty, but the roof within soon rises to forty or fifty feet, where it has so much the appearance of artificial structure, that it may be likened to a builder's arch, in which even the keystone is observable. There are several other caves or tunnels, one of which is at least fifty yards in length, and passes through a head- land bounding the harbor. This is constantly tra- versed by the canoes of the inhabitants. The geological formation of the island is trappean, with its various configurations and mineralogical pecu- liarities; columnar basalt appears, and hornblende and chalcedony are found. There are all the indi- cations of past volcanic action, and the oldest resident of Peel Island stated that two or three tremblings of the earth, giving evidence of a liability to earthquake, are experienced annually even now. Wood and water can be procured in abundance, though the former must be cut by the crew, and taken on board the ship green. The water is obtained from running streams, and is of good quality. Timber for building purposes is rather scarce, and would soon be exhausted if any increase of population should render the erection of many houses necessary. The best kinds of wood are the jamana and wild mulberry, the former of which is very like the red wood of Brazil and Mexico, and is very enduring. The vegetation throughout the island is exceedingly rich. Tropical palms abound in the valleys and on the acclivities of 136 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. : the hills, and give, with the irregular mountains, ele- vations, and abrupt cliffs, a wild and picturesque as- pect to the landscape. The harbor of Port Lloyd and the neighboring wa- ters abound with excellent fish, which may be taken by the hook or net, although the places for hauling the seine are few, owing to the coral which in many parts lines the shores. The varieties of fish are not numerous; among those taken in the seine belonging to the Susquehanna, there were but five observed: the mullet, which seemed to be the most abundant, two varieties of perch, the gar, and the common ray. Sharks are very numerous, and, when quite small, frequent the shallow places among the coral rocks, and are there pursued by the dogs, seized upon, and dragged on shore. There is an abundance of excellent green turtle, of which the ships obtained large supplies; there are also plenty of cray fish. The varieties of the testacea are numerous, but none that was observed of any rarity, and none edible except the chama gigas, which, however, is very tough and indigestible. The family of the crustacea is very extensive, of which the land crab forms the chief part, and which exist in every variety of size, form, and color; one of the most abounding is that which is commonly known as the "pirate." This animal can be seen in every direction near the shore, travelling about with its odd-looking domicil upon its back, which it seems to have got possession of rather by chance than from choice. The "pirate" has no home of its own, but appro- priates, whence its name, that which belongs to THE PIRATE. 137 others. It has a decided preference for the shells of the buccina murex, and bulla, which have the com- fortable proportions of an inch and a half or so in length; but if such desirable quarters should, by any mischance, happen to be scarce, the "pirate " readily turns into the next most suitable dwelling of some neighbor at hand. It is necessary that the animal should have some snug corner wherein, if not to lay its head, at any rate to put its tail, for the latter is soft and requires constant protection. Thus, when the "pirate" moves about, his head and claws are always protruded, but his rear is covered with his borrowed shell. It is still an unsettled question whether this animal appropriates the domicils of others by first rudely ejecting their living occupants, or more considerately waits until a natural death or some fatality vacates the quarters, and then takes pos- session. The "pirate" is a voracious creature, and seizes with great avidity upon anything eatable that comes in its way. The scarcity of birds, both of sea and land species, struck every one as singular. There were not more than four or five varieties of the latter, the largest of which were the crow and the pigeon, the others being of small size. There were but few gulls or other sea- birds. On approaching the islands, some petrel were observed of unusually large size and of singularly brilliant plumage. Among the quadrupeds there were found sheep, deer, hogs, and goats, with an infinite number of cats and dogs. The cats and hogs, having lost some of their quiet domestic virtues, had strayed into the 138 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. jungle, and being dignified by the inhabitants with the title of wild animals, were accordingly hunted with dogs. On Stapleton Island, the goats, which were placed there by some of the early settlers, have increased prodigiously, as have also these animals, to- gether with the hogs, put upon the other islands. Commodore Perry left on shore, on the north side of Peel Island, with a view to their increase, two bulls and two cows, and on North Island five Shanghai broad-tailed sheep, of which two were rams, and six goats. Peel Island is the only one of the Bonin group inhabited, and it contained, on the visit of the Com- modore, but thirty-one inhabitants, all told; of these three or four were native Americans, about the same R Inhabitants of Peel Island. HOW THE SETTLERS LIVE. 139 number Englishmen, one a Portuguese, and the re- mainder Sandwich islanders and children born on the island. One Nathaniel Savory, a Yankee, is looked up to as a sort of patriarch of the people, and he sup- ports his position with proper dignity. The settlers have cultivated patches of land of some extent, and raise a considerable quantity of sweet potatoes, In- dian corn, pumpkins, onions, taro, and several kinds of fruit, the most abundant of which are water-melons, bananas, and pine-apples. These productions, to- gether with the few pigs and poultry that are raised, find a ready sale to the whale ships constantly touch- ing at the port for water and other supplies. During the few days the Susquehanna was at an- chor in the harbor, three whalers, two American, and one English, communicated by means of their boats with the settlement, and carried away a good stock of provisions. These are obtained ordinarily in exchange for other articles from on board the ships, of which ardent spirits is, to some of the settlers, the most ac- ceptable. Were it not for the scarcity of labor a much greater extent of land would be cultivated. At present there cannot be more than a hundred and fifty acres throughout the whole island under culti- vation, and this is in detached spots, generally at the seaward termination of the ravines through which the mountain streams flow, and thus supply an abundance of fresh water, or upon plateaux of land near the har- bor. The soil is of excellent quality, and resembles very much that of Madeira and the Canary Islands, which are in the same parallel of latitude. It is ad- mirably adapted for the cultivation of the vine, and 140 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. for the raising of wheat, tobacco, sugar-cane, and many other valuable plants. In fact, the settlers al- ready produce enough sugar and tobacco for their own consumption. The few people who live on Peel Island seem hap- py and contented. Those of European origin have succeeded in surrounding themselves with some of the comforts and appliances of civilization. In one of the cottages there were observed several compart- ments, and what with hangings from the walls of Chi- nese matting, a chair or two, a table, a plentiful dis- tribution of blue paint, and some gaudily-colored lithographs, there seemed not only on the part of the proprietor a desire for comfort, but even a taste for luxury. The Sandwich Islanders, or Kanakas, as they are now familiarly known to the sailors and traders, live very much as they do in their native islands, and have grouped together their palm thatched huts, which have somewhat the appearance of one of their native villages. The inhabitants, living a quiet and easy life in a climate which is genial and wholesome, and upon a land whose fertility supplies them, in return for but little labor, with all they want to eat and drink, do not care to change their condition. The Americans and Europeans have taken to themselves wives from among the good-natured and substantial Kanaka women. The Commodore was greatly impressed with the suitability of Peel Island, from its position and re- sources, for a naval depot, and a stopping place for whalers and steamers, and accordingly made due pro- DEPARTURE FOR THE BONINS. 141 vision for the possible future necessities of our gov- ernment, by purchasing of Savory a piece of land front- ing the bay. After a stay of four days at the Bonin Islands, the Susquehanna weighed anchor, and taking the Saratoga in tow, as on the outward passage, sailed, on the morn- ing of the 18th of June, for Lew Chew. On his re- turn, the Commodore directed his course so as to pass Disappointment Island and the Borodinos. The po- sition of these islands was thus exactly determined by observation. The former, which is supposed to be the same as Rosario, was found to be a low island with two detached rocks; extending a cable's length from its extreme point, and to lie in latitude 27° 15′ north, and in longitude 140° 56′ 30″ east from Greenwich. The Borodinos were two in number, about five miles. apart, lying in a N. N. E. and S. S. W. direction, and appeared to be of coral formation. Trees of consid- erable growth covered the uplands, which reached, at their highest elevation, forty feet above the level of the sea. As no signs of people were observed, it was presumed that these islands were uninhabited. The position of the southern extremity of the island, at the south, was found to be in latitude 25° 47′ and in longitude 131° 19′ east. The navigation in the im- mediate neighborhood gave no indications of danger, but there were no indentations of the shore seen to afford safe anchoring places. During the return voyage moderate breezes from S. S. W. to S. W. had prevailed, with warm weather, and as the wind ever since the departure from Napha had continued from the southward and westward, it 2 142 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 1 Outer Harbor of Napha. may be inferred that the south-west monsoon extends as far north as the parallels of latitude in which the course of the ships laid. The Susquehanna and Sara- toga reached, in the evening of June 23d, their an- chorage in the bay of Napha, where they found the Mississippi, the Plymouth, and the Supply, which had just arrived from Shanghai. At Napha, everything appeared very much as when the Commodore had left. Those Americans who had remained, had found nothing to complain of in regard to their treatment, which was marked by the usual courtesy, but with little diminution of the ordinary reserve. There was some surprise on finding that the ven- erable Regent had been deposed, and a younger man substituted in his place. It was thought at first that that THE REGENT RESIGNED. 143 aged and respectable dignitary had made way with himself, in accordance with the Lew Chewan and Ja- panese practice. Whenever an official incurs the se- rious displeasure of his superiors, he anticipates the con- sequences by what is termed in Japan the Hari Kari, which is a very summary operation of suicide. The self-condemned criminal first rips up his bowels with his sword, and then cuts his neck, by which he fore- stalls all judiciary proceedings; and although he loses his life, which he would have done probably in any event, he secures his property to his family, which otherwise would have been forfeited to the state. It was, however, a very agreeable surprise to find that the venerable Regent had not been reduced to this unpleasant necessity, and it was quite a relief to the anxiety of all to see the old gentleman again, though shorn of his honors, in the full possession of his head and of his digestive apparatus apparently in its original state of integrity. He had, it was learned, merely resigned in consequence of his modest convic- tion that he was too old to cope with the resolute en- ergies of the enterprising Yankees, and a more youth- ful and active man had taken his place. The new Regent, Shang-Hung-Hiun, among his other honors, had succeeded to the invitation to din- ner which the Commodore had extended to his pre- decessor. On the appointed day of the feast, three of the ship's boats were sent off to the creek at Tumai to bring on board the invited guests. Captain Buchan- an received them, on their arrival, at the gangway, and conducted them through the various parts of the 144 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. ship. The day was oppressively warm, and the visi- tors found it so sultry between decks, and especially in the engine room, that they were glad once more to stand upon the upper deck. deck. The marines were under arms, and the band played to give honor to their re- ception. When dinner was announced they were. ushered into the Commodore's cabin, and immediately sat down to the table. The entertainment was, of course, entirely in accordance with the European and Ameri- can customs. The Commodore took the centre of the table, with the Regent on his right hand and the chief treasurer on his left, while the mayor of Napha and one of the other treasurers were seated near the ends of the table, where they were taken in charge by the commanders of the different vessels of the squadron. Mr. Williams, the Chinese interpreter, and Dr. Bet- telheim, the English missionary, were present as guests and interpreters; while at a smaller table were the Commodore's secretary, and the artists of the Expedition. None of the Regent's suite were allowed to sit at table with him, but remained in attendance. His interpreter, Ichirazichi, stood behind him. The new Regent was a small man, apparently about forty-five years old, of more swarthy complex- ion than any of his suite, and with a slight cast in his left eye. He was remarkably grave and taciturn, seemed to be perpetally awake to the novelty of his position, having at times a restless and uneasy ex- pression of countenance, and never spoke except when he was particularly addressed. His dress con- sisted of a dark purple or violet-colored robe, and a cap of crimson. The treasurers, both old men, FEAST TO THE REGENT. 145 The with wrinkled faces and scanty grey beards, wore similar caps, while their robes were yellow. mayor was attired in a robe of pearl-white grass cloth, and had on his head a crimson cap. The hair of all was put up with massive gold pins, and their girdles were of rich Chinese silk. These various dresses were presumed to be official, and in their diversity of color indicative of difference of rank. The inferior attend- ants who stood behind these dignitaries were dressed in blue and yellow, with scarlet caps. Knives and forks were placed, in our usual fashion, for each guest. The first seemed to be very much in the way of the Lew Chewans; with the last they did better, and showed some dexterity in making them answer the purpose of chop sticks. Turtle soup, goose, kid curry, and various other delicacies formed part of the feast, which was spread with bountiful profusion. To the soup the mayor and treasurer did ample justice. The cabin was sultry, and as the feast proceeded the guests grew warmer, until finally they asked permission to remove their caps, and this hav- ing been done, the attendant of each, standing behind, vigorously fanned the uncovered head of his master. Punch followed the soup, and furnished them with a new enjoyment. There were French and German wines, Scotch and American whiskey, Holland gin, madeira and sherry, and maraschino, which decidedly, in their estimation, bore away the palm. They smacked their lips and shut their eyes at each sip, and, in short, showed but a very sorry appreciation of the virtue of temperance. While they were thus pleasantly occu- pied, the artists took occasion to sketch their likenesses. 7 146 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. After feeding heartily on the substantials, they asked leave to smoke their pipes; it was of course ac- corded, and the chief treasurer, after a few whiffs, presented his, with the embroidered tobacco pouch at- tached, to the Commodore. The mayor and other treasurers followed his example by handing theirs to the Captains Buchanan and Adams. There seemed to be no end to the capacity of stomach in some of these Lew Chewan officials. Preserved oysters and other articles of food sealed up in America, excited an admiration as boundless as their appetites. Part of the dessert consisted of melons and bananas brought from the Bonin Islands. These took them completely captive, and they begged that they might carry some home to their wives. They were, of course, told to do so; and forthwith the loose folds of each one's robe above his girdle were converted into a pocket, and loaded with what it would hold. When things had reached this stage, there was but too much reason to fear that "the tide of wine and wassail was fast gaining on the dry land of sober judgment.” All reserve was now fully thawed out. The quiet repose of a calm contentment sat enthroned on the shining face of the jolly old mayor of Napha. The wrinkled visages of the two withered old treasurers flushed and expanded into rubicund fulness. Regent alone preserved his silent, anxious demeanor, and all he drank was neutralized in its effects by his excessive dignity. He appeared cordial and friendly but once, and that was when the Commodore offered him an assortment of American garden seeds and veg- etables. These he promised to plant and carefully The cultivate. CLEARING OF THE TABLES. 147 The Commodore had previously landed, as a present, cattle and buffaloes; these he also pro- mised should be carefully looked to and their offspring preserved. The band had been playing on the deck while the guests were feasting, and when dinner was over the Commodore ordered down some of the more expert performers, to play solos on the flageolet, hautboy, clarionet, and cornet-a-piston. The Regent listened attentively, but the mayor and treasurers were too busy in stowing away the fragments of the feast to be moved by any "concord of sweet sounds." Coffee was offered them under the name of "American tea." They did not relish it, and resorted once more to their pipes. The attendants had not been forgotten. They had enjoyed an abundance of meat and drink in the steward's pantry, and relished it quite as much as their masters. The feast at last was over, and the guests were put on shore at Tumai, leaving the ship under a salute of three guns. མ་ CHAPTER VII. ALL seemed anxious to get away from Lew Chew. The picturesque interests of the island were for the time being thoroughly exhausted, and the dull reali- ties of life began to weigh rather heavily upon the visitors. The weather, too, had become sultry and excessively oppressive, for the heat had reached the high degree of 88° Fahrenheit, in the coolest part of the Susquehanna, while she lay at anchor in the harbor. The Lew Chewans, moreover, had not apparently been much won over by the blandishments of their visitors. The supplies with which the authorities first furnished the squadron had been gradually falling off, and their consent to receive payment for them seemed to be the principal change in their policy effected by the long sojourn of six weeks. Some concessions, however, had been seemingly made to the Americans, inasmuch as the espionage was less public and intru- sive, although it was suspected by some to be as alert as ever, though more concealed. The Commodore now mustered all his forces for the proposed expedi tion to Japan, resolving to postpone until his return THE START FOR JAPAN. 149 the accomplishment of his ultimate purpose in regard to Lew Chew. Early on the morning of the 2d July (1853), the squadron, composed of the Susquehanna, which bore the Commodore's broad pennant, the steamer Missis- sippi, and the sloops of war the Saratoga and Ply- mouth, sailed from Napha. Each steamer took in tow a sailing ship, and as all the vessels were well appointed, they were probably equal to any emer- gency that might arise, although the Commodore had hoped to have exhibited to the Japanese a more imposing show of his country's naval force. Twelve vessels had been originally promised by the Govern- ment, but this imposing number had dwindled down by the remissness of the authorities at home, to the very small force of four, all told. On getting clear of the harbor, and stretching be- yond the shelter of the south-eastern extremity of the island, a strong wind was met from the east, and as the steamers were deep, it was thought better to stand off on the port tack, in order to get well clear of the land, for the vessels in tow were dragging them to the leeward, in spite of the power of the engines. In the course of the day, as there was every prospect of weathering the eastern part of the island, the squad- ron was put on the other tack, and its course directed for Japan. The track of the ships, to the east of the chain of islands which stretch from Formosa to Lew Chew, and are laid down on the American charts as the southern, middle, and northern group, has been sel- dom traversed by modern navigators, and the islands D 150 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. on the eastern side are entirely unknown to them. The principal island of the northern group is called by the Japanese Oho-Sima, and by the Chinese Tatao, both of which words mean "Great Island." It is about the size of Great Lew Chew, and has a chief city, several towns, and a highly cultivated soil. A current is said to be always setting from these islands to the northward and eastward, or, as the islanders say, it always goes to Japan and never comes back. The third day of the voyage, being the 4th of July, brought with it a lively remembrance of home, as it was the seventy-seventh anniversary of our national holiday. The occasion was duly honored by the firing of a salute of seventeen guns from each vessel of the squadron, and by the serving of an additional ration of grog to the sailors, while the officers brought to bear all the resources of their various means to give due enjoyment and impressiveness to the day. The holiday was realized in a respite from the usual mus- ter at general quarters, and the exercises at the great guns and small arms, which had been kept up with great regularity during the voyage, that the squadron might be prepared for any event on its arrival at Japan. At sunset on Thursday, the 7th of July, the squad- ron was, according to observation, about forty miles from Cape Negatsuo, or Idzu, as it is otherwise called. The heads of the ships were put off shore from mid- night until four o'clock next morning, when the first sight of Japan was obtained from the mast-head. Al- though the morning was fine, the atmosphere was so hazy that there was but an indistinct view of the out- ENTERING THE BAY OF YEDO. 151 line of the precipitous coast. Through the mist, how- ever, the bold promontory of Idzu could be seen ris- ing loftily from the sea, and stretching back in a crowd of mountainous elevations, while to the eastward lay Tosi-Sima, Likene-Sima, and other islands of the Broken Group, which are scattered along the coast of Japan. The course of the squadron was now pointed di- rectly to the entrance of the bay of Yedo. It will be found, on looking at a map of Japan, that that empire is composed chiefly of four islands, the largest one of which is Niphon; the next in size, Yesso, at the north; and the two smaller ones, Sikok and Kiusiu, at the south. The Commodore had determined to push his way as near as possible to Yedo, the capital, situated at the head of the bay of the same name, so he boldly steamed where steamer had never ventured before, and was soon plowing the remote waters of Japan, and looking with eager interest upon the novel scene which surrounded him. The bay at the entrance is hardly eight miles in width, but it in- creases to twelve or more beyond. The bold head- lands of the precipitous Cape Sagami rose on the left, and on the right extended irregularly the mountain- ous district of Awa. As the ships closed in with the land, and as the fog occasionally lifted, a glance was here and there caught of the neighboring shores, that were observed to rise in precipitous bluffs, which connected land- ward with undulating hills. Deep ravines, green with rich verdure, divided the slopes, and opened into small expanses of alluvial land, washed by the 152 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. In the Bay of Yedo. waters of the bay into the form of inlets, about the borders of which were grouped various Japanese vil- lages. The uplands were beautifully varied with cul- tivated fields and tufted woods; while far behind rose. the mountains, height upon height, in the inland distance. The shores of the bay, particularly on the western side, were populous with a succession of towns and villages, picturesquely grouped in groves of pine and other trees. The rising ground which came down from the mountainous interior, abruptly terminated at the water's edge in precipitous headlands, which were crowned with white forts, more formidable in appearance than in reality. The bay was busy with trading-junks, sailing up and down with their broad sails, or putting in here and there at the various ports. COMING TO ANCHOR. 153 The fleet of Japanese boats, supposed to be gov- ernment vessels, pulled out into the stream, with the . apparent purpose of arresting the progress of the squadron. The steamers, however, passed them con- temptuously by, and as they moved along rapidly on their course, at the rate of eight or nine knots an hour, with all their sails furled, the Japanese were soon left behind, and in a state, evidently, of much amazement at the sight of the first vessels they had ever beheld impelled by steam. As the day advanced the sun came out, dispelling the mist which had gathered over the land, and revealing a wide prospect of the distant country. Mount Fuzi was now seen rising to an immense height, with its cone-like summit covered with snow, which glistened brightly in the sun. The ships, as they approached their anchorage, continued sounding at every turn of the steamers' wheels, and they moved on slowly and cautiously until they reached a part of the bay off the city of Uraga, on the western side. The anchors were now let go, and the squadron was securely moored in Ja- panese waters, within a nearer distance of the capital of Yedo than any foreign vessel had ever ventured. As the ships brought to, commanding with their guns the town of Uraga and the battery upon its promon- tory, two guns were fired from the neighboring forts, and rockets were discharged into the air, for the pur- pose probably of signalizing the authorities at the capital. An immense fleet of government boats, each distinguished by a white flag at the stern, with a black central stripe and a tassel at the bow, came, in accor- dance with the usual practice in Japanese waters, 7* 154 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. hovering about the squadron. The Commodore had issued orders that no one from the shore should be allowed to board either of his vessels, except his own flag-ship. Some of the boats, however, attempted to get alongside the Saratoga, and the crews clung to the chains until they were repelled with considerable violence. One of the Japanese boats was allowed to come alongside of the Susquehanna, and every one on board of the steamer was struck with the resemblance of her build, as well as of the others, to that of the famous yacht America. Her bows were sharp, her beam broad, and her stern slightly tapering. She was trimly built, of pine wood apparently, without a touch of paint, and was propelled over the water with Japanese Boat. great swiftness by a numerous crew of boatmen, who, standing to their oars at the stern, sculled instead of rowing, the boat. The men were naked, with the ex- ception of a cloth about their loins, and were wonder- 7 VISIT OF JAPANESE DIGNITARIES. 155 fully stalwart and active fellows. Two persons, armed each with a couple of swords, a Japanese mark of official rank, stood toward the bows, and were evi- dently men of authority. As the boat reached the side of the steamer, one of these dignitaries held up a scroll, which turned out to be a document in the French and Dutch languages, ordering off the ships, and forbidding them to anchor at their peril. No notice was taken of this very peremptory sum- mons, and the officer on the deck of the Commodore's ship refused positively to touch the paper. The chief functionary on the boat made signs to have the gangway let down, that he might come on board the Susquehanna. This was reported to the Commodore, who kept secluded in his cabin, and he sent word that no one but a dignitary of the highest rank would be received. The Chinese interpreter attached to the squadron tried to make this under- stood to the Japanese, but as there seemed some dif- ficulty, one of the two functionaries in the boat, who was the chief spokesman, cried out in very good Eng- lish, "I can speak Dutch!" The Dutch interpreter was then summoned in the emergency, and a parley ensued, in the course of which it was learned that the two officials alongside were Nagasima Saboroske, the Vice-Governor of Uraga, and Hori Tatsnoske, an in- terpreter. As they insisted that they were the pro- per persons with whom to confer, they were admitted on board, and were received in the captain's cabin on deck. The Commodore had resolved, from motives of policy, to keep himself entirely secluded until a personage of the highest rank was appointed to meet 156 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. } him, and accordingly communicated with the visitors only through his subordinate officers. The Japanese were now told that the Commodore bore a letter to the Emperor from the President of the United States, which he was prepared to deliver so soon as a proper person was appointed to receive it. To this they re- plied that Nagasaki, in the island of Kiusou, was the only place where any such communication could be received, and that the ships must proceed there im- mediately. This being reported to the Commodore, he sent back an answer declaring that he would not go to Nagasaki; and, moreover, if the authorities did not remove their boats, which were thronging about the ships, he would disperse them by force. This last piece of intelligence produced a very prompt effect, for the Vice-Governor of Uraga rose hurriedly on THE GOVERNOR OF URAGA. 157 learning it, and going to the gangway, beckoned the guard-boats away. In reference to the reception of the President's letter, the Japanese dignitary said he had nothing more to say, but that another personage of higher rank would come next morning and confer with the Commodore about it. The Japanese now took their departure. The presence of the Americans in the bay of Yedo was evidently exciting a very lively apprehension among those on shore, for guns were frequently firing, signal rockets shooting up into the air, soldiers parad- ing about the batteries on the various headlands, and at night bells were tolling and beacon-fires were blaz- ing and illumining the long extent of shore. In accordance with the Vice-Governor's promise, his superior, the Governor of Uraga, visited the Sus- quehanna next day, notwithstanding the former gen- tleman had said, at first, that he himself was the pro- per person, and that it was against the laws of Japan for the latter to board a foreign ship. But this kind of deception is a recognized element of Japanese diplomacy, and lying is an established function of Japanese official duty, so it was considered as a mat- ter of course, and the Commodore regulated his con- duct accordingly. The Governor, who sent in his name upon his gigantic red card, as Kayamon Yezaimon, was a more imposing personage than his Vice, and was robed in character with his greater pretensions. He wore the usual Japanese loose gown, something like a clerical robe, which in his case was of rich silk, embroidered with a pattern of peacock feathers. In the sash which girded his waist were thrust the two 158 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. swords of dignity, and on his head was a lacquered cap, like a reversed basin, reminding one of Don Quixote's helmet of Mambrino. When he uncovered, the usual manner of dressing the hair was disclosed, in which the head is shaved from the forehead far back, while the locks at the sides and above the neck. being allowed to grow to a great length, are drawn up, and, being plastered and anointed with pomatum, are fastened in a knot which is stuck to the bald spot on the top. Yezaimon was admitted to an interview, not, however, with the Commodore, who still preserved his dignified reserve, but with one of his captains. A long conversation ensued, in the course of which he was told very much the same things as had been said to his predecessor. He, finding that the Com- modore was resolute in his declaration that he would not go to Nagasaki, promised to refer the subject to the imperial government. Nagasaki, it will be recol- lected, is the place where the Dutch factory is estab- lished, and where the Japanese desire to confine all their relations with foreigners, under the same de- grading restrictions as those to which the Hollanders have, for the sake of a little trade, so long and so dis- creditably submitted. The Commodore had sent out a number of boats, well armed, to survey the bay, and as they proceeded in their work, closing in with the land, troops of Ja- panese soldiers thronged the shores and the batteries, while fleets of government boats, with armed men, under the command of military officers, pushed out into the stream, with the apparent purpose of inter- cepting the surveyors. The American lieutenant who SURVEY OF THE BAY 159 led the survey party ordered his men to rest upon their oars awhile, and to adjust the caps to their pistols, that they might be prepared for what appeared to be the imminent prospect of a collision. The Japanese, however, observing the resolute attitude of the stran- gers, sculled their trim boats fast away, and the Amer- icans were left undisturbed in their labors. Yezaimon having observed the survey boats busy in the bay, expressed great anxiety, and declared that it was against the Japanese laws, to which he was answered that the American laws command it, and that the Americans were as much bound to obey the latter as his countrymen were the former. The Commodore had everything in battle array in case of a rupture; he had cleared the decks, placed his guns. in position and shotted them, put the small arms into order, overhauled the ammunition, arranged the sen- tinels, and had done all that was usual before meeting an enemy. Not that the Commodore anticipated ac- tual hostilities, but that he was resolved to be on the alert in case of an emergency, knowing that the best means of avoiding war was to be well prepared for it. The Japanese, on their part, were no less engaged in busy preparation, furbishing up their forts and ex- tending long stretches of black canvas to either side, with the view of giving them a more formidable as- pect, not conscious apparently that the telescopes from the ships' decks disclosed all their sham con- trivances for effect. The Japanese soldiers showed themselves in great force about the batteries, glitter- ing in their gay robes of bright blue and red, while their lacquered caps and tall spears shone brightly in + 160 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. the sun's light. Numbers of government boats also thronged the neighboring shores. After the most provoking and tedious negotiation with the Governor of Uraga, who almost daily visited the Susquehanna, and pertinaciously offered every obstacle in his power to the Commodore's resolute. determination to be received by a proper personage to whom he might deliver the President's letter, it was at last reluctantly decided by the Government of Japan that the Commodore's wish should be complied with. Accordingly, Thursday, the 14th of July, 1853, was the day appointed for an interview. It was only by the Commodore's urgent demand, and the threat that he would carry the President's letter to Yedo and deliver it in person, that the authorities were prevailed upon to intermit their tedious and prevari- cating diplomacy, and, after a delay of four days, to fix the time for the reception on shore. "I will wait until Tuesday, the 12th of July, and no longer," were the emphatic words of the Commo- dore, and on that day the answer of the Emperor came, appointing, as we have seen, the subsequent Thursday for the reception. A small village, called Gori-hama, about a Japan- ese mile south of Uraga, had been selected for the in- terview, and accordingly, when the day arrived, the two steamers were moved down the bay opposite the place, and anchored in a position by which their guns could command the landing. The Japanese had erected a temporary building of pine wood, the three- peaked roofs of which rose high above the houses of the neighboring village. White canvas, painted in PREPARING TO LAND. 161 squares, with black stripes, covered the building and stretched a long distance to either side. Nine tall standards of a rich crimson cloth, surrounded by a crowd of variegated colored flags, were distributed along the beach in front, while troops of Japanese soldiers, to the number of five thousand or more, were arrayed in line behind. The hills and country in the neighborhood were thronged with people. As the steamers came to anchor, two Japanese boats sculled alongside the Susquehanna, and Kayama Yezaimon, the Governor of Uraga, accompanied by two interpreters, came on board, immediately followed by Nagasima Saboroske, the Vice-Governor, with an attendant. They were dressed in full official costume. Saboroske was the dandy of the occasion, and shone brilliantly in his loose robe of gaily-colored and richly embroidered silk, with its back, sleeves, and breasts all covered with armorial quarterings, like a herald- He had rather a comical look, as he went, with his usual curiosity, poking about every where, and with his cunning vivacity seemed, in his gay be- dizenment, very like an uncommonly brilliant knave of trumps. He wore, in addition to his splendid robe, a pair of very short but wide trowsers, while his legs below were partly naked and partly covered with black woollen socks. His feet were encased in white sandals, and his head was covered with the ordinary reversed hat, shining with lacquer, and adorned with gilded ornaments. at arms. Every thing being now in readiness for the land- ing, some fifteen boats left the ships, loaded down with officers, marines, and sailors. One of the cap- 162 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. tains, who had the command of the day, led the van in his barge, flanked on either side by the two Japan- ese boats containing the Governor and Vice-Governor of Uraga, and their suites. The others followed in order, accompanied by the two bands of music, which struck up a series of enlivening tunes. A temporary wharf of straw and sand had been built out from the shore, where the boats now disembarked in succession. their various loads, and fell back in line to either side. The marines and sailors were ranged in rank and file along the beach, and awaited the coming of the Com- modore, who was the last to set out. He now came in his state barge, amidst the salvo of thirteen guns from his flag-ship, and immediately after landing upon the wharf was escorted up the beach to the house of reception by his body-guard, the various. officers, the marines, and sailors who formed the pro- cession. The Americans, it must be allowed, made quite a formidable appearance with their force, which amount- ed, all told, to nearly four hundred. The marines were in full uniform of blue and white, and, with their thorough military discipline, their neat mus- kets, and glistening bayonets, presented quite an effective appearance as they marched in front. The Jack tars who followed, swinging in their nautical gait, and dressed in their neat navy frocks and saucy- looking tarpaulins, were fine manly fellows, and con- trasted greatly with the effeminate-looking Japanese about. The United States flag was borne by two tall, broad-shouldered sailors, who had been picked out of the whole squadron for their stalwart propor- * RECEPTION ASHORE. 163 tions. These were immediately followed by two boys, dressed rather fancifully for the occasion, who bore, wrapped in a scarlet cloth envelope, the box which contained the Commodore's credentials and the Pres- ident's letter. These documents were beautifully in- scribed on vellum of folio size, and bound in blue silk velvet. The seals were attached by cords of silk and gold, terminating in gold tassels, and encased in circular boxes, six inches in diameter and three in depth, beautifully wrought of solid gold. The box which contained the documents was of rosewood, with gold mountings. The Commodore came immediately after, in full uniform, flanked on either side by a tall negro armed to the teeth-the two being the best- looking fellows that could be found. The various offi- cers of the squadron followed in succession according to their rank, and thus the procession reached the en- trance of the Reception House, where the marines and sailors halting, formed two lines, between which the Commodere and his officers passed up and entered the building. The house showed in its bare timbers marks of hasty erection, but it was handsomely adorned for the occasion. The first apartment was a large re- ception hall, spread with thick, soft mats of rice straw, and its walls hung with cotton hangings, adorned with representations of the crane-the sacred bird of Japan. Along the sides were divans covered with red cloth; and through the centre of the floor was extended a strip of red carpet, which led to an inner recess, raised, like a dais, several steps higher than the outer * See Appendix. 164 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. hall. This inner compartment was fitted up with hangings of silk and fine cotton, upon which the im- perial arms, consisting of the three leaves of the com- mon clover joined together in a circle, were embroid- ered in white. The Commodore and his suite ad- vanced to the raised dais, and were conducted to the seats which had been prepared for them on the left, the place of honor with the Japanese. On the right were the two princes who had been appointed by the imperial government to receive the President's letter. They were both venerable-looking men, with white beards and thoughtful expressions of face. As the Commodore entered, they rose and bowed, but did not utter a word; and, in fact, during the whole in- terview they remained as silent as statues. These dignitaries were richly robed in garments of heavy silk brocade, interwoven with gold and silver orna- ments, and made quite an effective appearance. Near them stood a large lacquered box, of a bright red color, supported on feet made of brass; and on either side of this box Yezaimon and the interpreter, Tat- snoske, took their positions, crouched upon their knees. These prostrate gentlemen acted as masters of ceremonies on the occasion, and moved about with exceeding liveliness, notwithstanding that their hum- ble attitude, which they preserved throughout, pre- vented the use of their legs. Tatsnoske having announced the names of the princes as Toda-idzu-no-Kami-Toda, Prince of Idzu, -and Ido-iwami-no-Kami, Ido, Prince of Iwami- there was a momentary pause, as if to give the Commodore an opportunity to recover from the INQUISITIVE JAPANESE. 165 effects of so imposing an announcement. Business then commenced by the Japanese interpreter asking if the letters were ready for delivery, and pointing at the red box as the proper receptacle for them. The Commodore accordingly called in his pages from the lower hall who carried the documents, and they, obeying the summons, marched up, followed by the two tall negro guards. They were then directed to place the papers upon the red box prepared to re- ceive them, which they did, and the business of the day was done. The Commodore, bowing formally, now arose, and returned to the ship with the same ceremony as when he left. Yezaimon Saboroske and Tatsnoske accompanied the Americans on board, and were readily persuaded to take a sail on the Susquehanna up the bay. Yezai- mon was always a great favorite with the Americans, as, in addition to the usual well-bred courtesy of his countrymen, he had a great deal of bonhommie, which induced him to share freely in the good-fellowship of the naval officers. With all his friendliness he showed a gentlemanly reserve, and in this respect differed from the Vice-Governor, Saboroske, who was pert and rudely inquisitive. Every thing on board ship was now shown to the Japanese, and they exhibited an intelligent curiosity about all they saw. While the engine of the steamer was in motion they examined with great interest every part of the machinery, and by their questions showed a certain familiarity with the power of steam. They asked, for example, whether it was a smaller ma- chine of the same kind as the ship's engine which 166 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. was used in America on those roads that are cut through the mountains, evidently alluding to our railroads. They wanted to know who first invent- ed steamers, and what was the greatest speed they reached. Upon a globe being presented to them, they pointed out New York and Washington, and also the various principal states of Europe, proving a very accurate knowledge on their part of the geographical distribution of the earth. The revolvers on board pleased them particularly, and they asked to have them fired off. On the arrival of the steamers off Uraga the Japanese left in their boats, which had been towed at the stern of the Susquehanna, and ex- pressed great regret at taking what they supposed was their last farewell. The steamers being now joined by the Saratoga and Plymouth, which vessels had weighed their an- chors in readiness, the whole squadron moved up the bay in line. A good opportunity was thus obtained of seeing the country on both sides, and nothing could be more beautiful than the varied scene of cultivated fields, terraced gardens, groves of spreading trees, rich valleys, green hillsides, and populous villages, which presented itself as the ships passed along the shore. They first passed to the eastern side; then returned to the western side, where they finally came to anchor in a beautiful spot, which had already been carefully surveyed, and was now called for the first time the "American Anchorage." Great consternation was created on land by this movement; but although the soldiers thronged the numerous batteries, and the government boats pulled SAIL UP THE BAY. 167 out into the bay, there was no attempt to interfere forcibly with the squadron. Yezaimon and Tatsnoske, however, as soon as the anchors were dropped, sculled up alongside the Susquehanna in great haste, and hur- ried aboard, asking anxiously, "Why do your ships anchor here?" They were, however, soon quieted when they discovered that all they had to say was not likely to produce much effect upon the Commo- dore, who merely told them that as he was to return in the spring, he wished to obtain a good anchorage for his vessels. After a few words of protest on the one side and explanation on the other, the whole mat- ter dropped, and was very agreeably relieved by the entrance of a supply of refreshments. Yezaimon was always prepared to take his part in any conviviality on hand, and seemed now to enjoy keenly the ship's biscuit, the ham and cold tongue, and especially the whiskey. As the Japanese rose to go, they crammed into their spacious sleeves pieces of the bread and ham, and other remnants of the feast, and took leave in the most courtly and friendly manner. The Commodore on the next day transferred his flag to the Mississippi, and pushed his way to a dis- tance within seven miles of Yedo, so near, in fact, that he could distinctly see the suburb, although not the capital itself, for a projecting promontory hid it from view. There was no interruption to the progress of the steamer, but evidently great interest excited on shore, as the inhabitants crowded down to the water's edge in multitudes, and the troops thronged about the batteries. On the Mississippi returning to her an- chorage, Yezaimon came on board, bringing with 168. EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. him some presents for the Commodore, of no great value, but interesting as specimens of Japanese work- manship. There were a few wooden cups beautifully polished with their famous lacquer, some pieces of fine silks, and several grotesquely ornamented fans. These were only accepted on the condition that some- thing of at least equal value should be received in re- turn, which, after some demur on the part of Yezai- mon, was finally complied with. As the squadron was to leave the bay of Yedo next day, Yezaimon and Tatsnoske expressed their regret that the time. for parting with their American friends had ar- rived. They did their best, however, to drown their grief in the abundant supplies of wine and whiskey which circulated on the occasion. Yezaimon grew, un- der the influence of the champagne exceedingly affec- tionate, and very pathetically declared that, when his good friends should leave, he would be under the ne- cessity of relieving himself by a gush of tears. Tatsnoske became rather confidential than tender, and hinted, with a very knowing look and a diplo- matic whisper, that all would be well, as he could aver on the best authority, with the President's letter. When these jovial Japanese took their leave, they shook every man's hand within reach, and reluctantly descended into their boat, bowing at every step. They had no sooner squatted on their mats than Yezaimon´ ordered one of the cases of wine, which had been pre- sented to him by the Commodore, to be opened, and taking out a bottle, drank a health to his American. friends. On the next morning (Sunday, July 17th, 1853), RESULT OF FIRST VISIT. 169 the Commodore set sail for Napha, having spent just seventeen days in the bay of Yedo. It was his intention to return the ensuing spring to receive an answer to the President's letter, and commence those negotiations with the Japan government, which he hoped might lead to a satisfactory treaty. Judged by the ordinary relations between civil- ized nations, the result of the proceedings on this the first visit of the Commodore, was not rernarkable, but when considered in reference to the exclusive policy of Japan, there was some reason for congratulation. The justice of the Commodore's demand to be re- ceived as befitted the envoy of a great nation, had been acknowledged by the imperial government in a document which contained these remarkable words, "As it has been observed that the Admiral,* in his quality of ambassador of the President, would feel him- self insulted by a refusal to receive the letter at this place, the justice of which has been acknowledged, the above-mentioned letter is hereby received, in op- position to the Japanese laws.” In this striking phrase, "in opposition, &c.," Japan herself has em- phatically recorded the American triumph. The Ja- panese had broken their own code of selfish exclu- siveness to obey the universal law of hospitality. *The Commodore was called by this title in all his official relations with the Japanese. 8 CHAPTER VIII. As the departure of the Americans from the Bay of Yedo was a great event, crowds of people gathered on both shores, and the soldiers thronging out of the batteries, hurried to the loftiest summits of the rising ground, while boats pushed off into the stream in hun- dreds, to catch a glance of the passing vessels. The morning was fine, and the appearance of the four ships (the two steamers having the two sail vessels in tow), moving on, without a yard of canvas set, in stately procession, succeeding each other in regular line, was imposing and novel to the Japanese, unfamiliar with the power of steam. The squadron, steaming rapidly out of the bay, soon left in the distance the lofty summit of Mount Fusi, and the mountainous coast of the province of Awa, and came up with the long chain of islands, which extend out into the ocean from the mouth of the Bay of Yedo. There was Oo-Sima, with its hills rising to the clouds, Vulcan Island, with its scarred ribs. and volcanic summit, Fatsicio, the Japanese Botany Bay, and a large number of other islands, presenting themselves in constant succession as the ships moved on. ISLANDS OFF JAPAN. 171 Some of these not being laid down in his charts, the Commodore took the usual privilege of navigators, and gave them names of his own. One island was called after the steamer Mississippi, a cluster of rocks received the name of the Susquehanna, and the Ply- mouth and Saratoga each came in for a share of the same honor. These islands are mostly marked with the usual features of volcanic origin, having a round- ed contour, with summits rising into cones, sides scarred with currents of lava, and bases surrounded by detached rocks. A rich vegetation has, however, thrown its green mantle over the sides of some of the islands, and gives them a look of verdant beauty, which greatly contrasts with the fire-blasted surface of others. On the day after the departure from Yedo Bay, the wind, which had been steadily blowing from the east to E. S. E., began to increase with such force as made it necessary to cast off the two sloops of war, which, the commanders having been ordered by signal to proceed to the duty previously assigned them, then parted company. The Saratoga was to proceed immediately to Shanghai, and the Plymouth, after the western shores of Oho-Sima had been exam- ined, was to make her way to Lew Chew. After the sailing ships had been cast off, the wind gradually increased to a strong gale. The two steam- ers were now hove to on the port tack, and all made snug by sending down the top-masts and securing the great guns by strong lashings. The wind being at east by south, beating up an ugly sea, the Susque- hanna rolled very deeply, but otherwise made toler- 172 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. able weather. The Mississippi apparently was doing better, but nevertheless lost two of her boats during the gale. The storm did not begin to abate until the third day, when the Commodore continued his course without delay for Napha, where he arrived at noon on Monday (25th of July). They had not escaped the severe weather at Lew Chew. The storeship Supply, which had remained while the squadron proceeded to Japan, was found still rolling like a great log in the swell of the bay, and the officers stated that the storm had blown with great violence on land and on water, and had con- tinued for several days. During the Commodore's absence the natives had evinced no unfriendly feeling to the Americans, but continued as before, very re- served in their intercourse, and tenacious of their sys- tem of espionage. Supplies of provisions, however, had been regularly furnished, and payment received, through the agency of the English missionary, Dr. Bettelheim. The Commodore promptly commenced negotia- tions with the Lew Chewan authorities, and, after several tedious conferences, in the course of which the Regent and his subordinate officials put into play their usual system of prevarication and deceit, succeeded in effecting his purpose. In accordance with the Commodore's demand, a building for the storage of coal was granted, for which it was agreed to pay a rent of ten dollars a month; the privilege was accord- ed to the Americans of making purchases, the authori- ties intermitted somewhat of their surveillance, and the natives themselves became less reserved in intercourse. RETURN TO LEW CHEW. 173 It had been agreed, as the Mayor of Napha so earnestly insisted that the market-people, particularly the women, were averse to traffic with strangers, that a bazaar should be opened for the sale of the various products of the country, in one of the Cung-quas. Accordingly, at six o'clock on the morning of the steamer's departure (Monday, August 1st), the bazaar opened with a motley display of lacquered cups, plates, and boxes, pieces of grass-cloth, cotton and silk sashes, straw sandals, hair-pins of brass and silver, fans, chow- chow boxes (something like our Sandwich cases), smoking pipes, composed of small metal bowls with stems of reed, and a plentiful supply of tobacco. Ichirazichi, the Regent's interpreter, presided as the Mercury on the occasion, and went about busily per- forming his functions as general broker. A hundred dollars or more was spent by the several parties from the ships. As the demand increased it was found, in accord- ance with the usual law of trade, that the supply augmented, and the Lew Chew merchants were not backward in illustrating this principle of political economy. The prices were not very heavy at first, but the natives, in the course of the business, began to improve in this particular, and it was found that some had paid at least double the sum paid by others for a similar article. The objects obtained were of not much importance, but the chief interest of the occa- sion arose from the fact that this dealing with foreign- ers was the first authorized, and was in direct opposi- tion to a fundamental law of the island, the abroga- tion of which cannot but result in the greatest advan- 174 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. tage to the people of Lew Chew. The signal of departure being hoisted, the purchasers returned to their respective ships, and at eight o'clock in the morning (August 1), the Commodore started, with the Susqehanna and Mississippi, for Hong Kong, leav- ing the Plymouth at Lew Chew to keep up relations with the people until his return. On the second evening after leaving Napha, a sail was seen ahead in the distance, steering in a north-easterly direction. On coming up with her, she proved to be the Vandalia, on her passage to Lew Chew to join the squadron, having been sent out from the United States for that purpose. She was now ordered back to Hong Kong, the last port from which she had sailed, and where she had left the steamer Powhattan, which had also lately arrived from the United States, on her way to Lew Chew to join the force of Commodore Perry. The steamers arrived at Hong Kong on Sunday (August 7, 1853), but the Vandalia did not arrive un- til a week after. The Powhattan was found, much to the disappointment of the Commodore, to have left for Napha, and as she had taken the Formosa pas- sage, the chance of intercepting her had been lost. She did not return to Hong Kong until the 25th of August, having been detained at Lew Chew for re- pairs to her machinery, which had been necessary at every port she had touched, and which accordingly had much delayed her voyage from the United States. As the typhoon season was approaching, and the ships all required a general overhauling, and the 3 STATIONED AT MACAO. 175 crews some relaxation, the Commodore determined to give his vessels a thorough refitment. As the American merchants had asked for protection for their lives and property, supposed to be endangered by the prospect of the revolution in China extending to Canton, the Commodore sent the storeship Supply to the anchorage opposite the city, while the Missis- sippi was stationed off Whampoa, to protect the American shipping at that point, not only from any revolutionary disturbance that might arise, but also from the pirates. The rest of the squadron were ordered to Cum- sing-mon, a port lying between Hong Kong and Ma- cao, and which is not only the most commodious and healthful of the various harbors in that neighborhood, but as it is the rendezvous of the opium vessels be- longing to the merchants of Canton, has the advan- tage of constant communication with the surrounding towns. The Commodore had provided himself with a house at Macao, where he established, under his su- pervision, the surveyors and artists of the expedition, who set to work to complete their hydrographical re- ports, maps, and drawings. A hospital was also established at Macao, under the superintendence of the fleet surgeon, which soon had a goodly number of inmates sent from the differ- ent ships. Hardly an officer or man escaped an at- tack of fever, of more or less severity. Macao had hitherto been considered a remarkably healthful place, and chosen as the usual summer resort of families from Canton and Hong Kong. The epidemic, however, of 176 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 1853, proved that it was not always to be free from those severe inflictions of disease, to which the cities and towns of the East are so exposed. While Macao was so unhealthy, Canton was com- paratively wholesome. In fact, the latter is justly considered a healthful place when compared with other cities in the neighborhood, notwithstanding its population is constantly exposed to the miasm arising from the rice-fields which surround Canton. The offi- cers and crew of the Supply, stationed off the city, remained perfectly healthy, in spite of the marshy country, and although the town itself was, as is usual in certain seasons, overflowed by the rising of the river, and the public garden of the Factories was covered with water. With this apparent cause of disease, together with an immense population, narrow and filthy streets, ill- ventilated and crowded houses, and uncleanliness of person, it is impossible to account for the healthful- ness of Canton. It has been attributed by some to the quantity of wood consumed as fuel, which, how- ever, is no greater than that of other cities, as New Orleans for example, which does not escape the effects of malaria, and by others to the abstemiousness of the people. As for the abstemiousness of the Chinese, this is only a virtue of necessity, as they seem to be fond enough of flesh and all sorts of food, however gross, when they can get it. The poorer classes are accus- tomed to the use of boiled rice only, mixed with small proportions of dried fish, and occasionally with some simple condiments, and they consume enormous THE CHINESE GLUTTONS. 177 quantities, if they have the means of procuring it. Dogs and cats, which are carried about the streets. for sale, must be considered delicacies above the reach of the poorer classes, judging from the prices demanded for them. Rats, mice, and other vermin, are also eagerly sought after, and are made up into various savory dishes. To the families belonging to the fast boats attached to the ship, a good fat rat was one of the most acceptable of presents, which they cooked and served up with their rice, making a dish very much like the French one of Poulet-au-riz in appearance; but as for the taste, that question must be referred to the Chinese authorities, as no Ameri- can or European has yet been found, it is believed, to test it by actual experiment. Those Chinese employed in the ships of the squad- ron have always found the navy ration insufficient to satisfy their gluttony, notwithstanding that of the United States vessels is far more abundant and of better quality than the ration of the navy of any other country. A mess of ten American seamen usually stop each two rations, for which they receive the com- mutation in money. The Chinese, however, although the most sordid of beings, not only devoured the en- tire ration served out to them, but went about the decks collecting what they could pick up from the leavings of the messes, and invariably beset the ship's cooks for the scrapings of the coppers. The Chinese servants employed in the Commo- dore's cabin ate, in miscellaneous food, including rice, bread, beef, pork, and the leavings of the table, three times as much as the other attendants. In fact, the *8 178 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. enormous quantities of rice they consumed, with what- ever else they could seize upon, is almost incredible. As for sugar and other sweets, there would have. been no end to their pilfering, if they had not been carefully watched by the steward. This gross feed- ing exhibited its effects upon the Chinese servants, as it does upon dumb animals, for they soon became fat and lazy. Most of the Chinese servants employed in the Eu- ropean and American families settled in China, en- gage to find their own food. Their wages vary from four to six and seven dollars per month; the cooks, however, receive from seven to ten. All articles for household consumption, in the foreign establishments, are procured through the agency of a person called a comprador, who hires the servants, pays them their wages, and becomes security for their honesty; he keeps a regular account of the domestic expenditure, and settles with his employers at established periodi- cal seasons. In the large mercantile establishments, the profits of these compradors are very considerable. However ample a dinner may have been furnished, it would be difficult to secure at some of the residences, where little attention is paid to the economy of the household by the proprietors themselves, any thing for a late guest arriving half an hour after the meats had been served. Scarcely are the dishes taken from the dining-room, before they are on their way to the neighboring eating-houses, there to be rehashed into. stews, and sold to the middle classes. In the houses of the foreign merchants, where there happen to be no ladies, female servants are un- CHINA-MEN MILLINERS. 179 known; and what would appear to be repugnant to our own sense of delicacy, there are even some Eng- lish and American families without female domestics, although ladies form part of the household. It was, however, observed, that in all the families containing children, either maid servants or women of Macao, called Amahs or Ayahs, were employed. The wages of the latter at Macao are four dollars a month, but if taken to Canton or Hong Kong they demand additional compensation. Many of the wo- men speak a little of the lingua called Chinese Eng- lish, or in the cant phrase, pigeon, which sounds very ludicrous to those first hearing it, but one soon finds himself drawn necessarily into this manner of making himself understood. The Macao women possessing this elegant accomplishment demand higher wages. There is certainly some excuse for employing male attendants about the bed-chamber and dressing-rooms, when it is known that the Chinese lords of creation are the only tailors, dress-makers, washers, ironers, and doers up of fine linen. In Canton, however, there are some women hired by the tailors to do plain sewing, for which they receive nearly as little as our needle-workers, and those poor creatures in Great Britain, over whose misery and living death Hood sang his dirge. Their pay is from five to seven cents a day. The male tailors are somewhat better paid, and will go to any house and work for twelve hours at the rate of twenty-five cents a day, they finding their own food, or, as they call it, their "chow-chow." It is not uncommon to see a dirty small-footed female sitting at some corner in the street, with a supply of 180 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. Chinese Barber. A CHINESE STUMP UNCOVERED. 181 sewing materials and a few rags, ready to stitch up a rent, or put a patch upon the garments of any passer by who may want her services. Toward night she may be seen, with her stock in trade, hobbling home on her disgusting stumps, of which she is seemingly very proud. All the Chinese women, in fact, pride themselves very much on their goatlike hoofs, and have the great- est possible contempt for a natural foot. Little girls are said to importune their mothers with tears in their eyes to compress their feet, as promising them a higher position in society, although females of the lower orders are frequently observed with the aristo- cratic hoof, but these are such as have, possibly, seen better days. It is difficult for strangers to get a sight of these singular deformities, as the Chinese women manifest the greatest reluctance to show them; but Dr. Parker prevailed upon a girl of thirteen, who was a patient in the hospital, to unbandage in the presence of her mother, in order to satisfy the curiosity of the Commodore, who had quite enough in one glance of that shapeless stump, which appeared more like a specimen of bad surgery, such as Dr. Parker would have been doubtless ashamed of, than, as the Chinese consider it, an elegance of fashion. These horrid hoofs are very carefully looked after by the Chinese women, and are swathed in gay ban- dages of all colors, and shod with a high-heeled shoe, richly worked and adorned. A fashionable ladies' dressmaker in China, is al- ways greatly in demand among the foreign ladies, and it is as necessary to bespeak his services in time 182 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. Chinese Lady of Rank. ני THE CHINESE GUILDS. 183 at Canton and Macao, as it is those of a Miss Lawson in New York. These man-milliners generally require what they call a muster, or pattern, which they, with the usual Chinese imitative skill, reproduce exactly, whether of London, Paris, or New York fashion, and adapt it to any form or size. It was by no means an agreeable sight, on passing one of the dark and dirty tailor shops at Macao, to behold the greasy and half naked Chinaman, late at night, busily plying his dirty fingers about a splendid female dress, destined to drape the graceful form of some beautiful woman at the com- ing ball or dinner party. These male dressmakers are held in such estimation by those resident in China, that some few European and American ladies have been known, on leaving the country, to carry away a Chinese man-milliner with them. The ordinary compensation for all operatives in Canton, who find their food, varies from twelve to twenty cents a day. Farm hands, when fed, receive six cents for twelve hours work, being at the rate of a farthing an hour. The day laborers, chair-bearers, and porters, if not hired by the job, are paid from twenty to twenty-five cents. Boatmen's wages are from one and a half to two and a quarter dollars per month, when found, which latter condition generally includes food, not only for themselves, but for their wives and children, who live with them in the boat. Porters, and those of other crafts in Canton form themselves into guilds, and appoint leaders, or headmen, who contract for labor of various sorts. This system of organization is not confined to those who work, but ex- tends to those who beg. The beggars, like the gypsies, 184 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. have their kings, who assign to their ragged subjects their particular offices of vagabondage and their respec- tive fields of operation; and what is singular, the laws of China secure to these rogues certain rights and privi- leges. These laws give to them the right of approach- ing and knocking at the door of any domicile, or to enter the shops, and there to strike together a couple of sticks similar to those used by the watchmen em- ployed by families to guard their premises against thieves; these sticks produce a disagreeable sound, and, however long the beggars keep up this annoy- ance, they cannot be legally ejected until they are paid the usual gratuity, which is the smallest coin in use, termed a cash, and which in value is about the twelfth of a cent; when supplied with this the beggar takes his departure, and repeats the stick striking nuisance next door, and so on until he has completed his daily circuit. It is said that one hundred of these mendicants are assigned by their king to Old China street alone, which is altogether occupied by wealthy shop-keep- ers. Some of these commute with the beggars by paying them a round sum for exemption from the an- noyance of their noisy visitors. The organized beg- gars have their own benevolent institutions, where provision is made for the sick and needy, and the old and infirm. The number of these well-disciplined gentry can hardly be estimated by a stranger, but it is undoubtedly very large, if we may judge from the crowds which infest those parts of the city of Canton accessible to foreigners. Each city has its own laws with respect to mendi- HONESTY FOR SALE. 185 cants, and its own charitable institutions. In Canton there are four principal benevolent establishments: one for widows, another for foundlings, a third for furnishing coffins for the dead relations of indigent families, and the fourth for idlers. Whether thieving is one of the recognized functions of these beggars or not, is not known; but it is quite clear that they can and do turn their hand with great skill to occasional small pilfering, in which they show themselves as great adepts as the most accomplished pickpockets in any part of the world. In regard to the lower, or laboring classes of China, the Commodore was agreeably disappointed, as he found them, practically, not so bad after all. It is true, honesty is only a conventional virtue with the Chinese; but it can be obtained for money, like any thing else among that nation of shopkeepers: and if a Chinese laborer stipulates to be honest for a consid- eration, he may, in ordinary cases, be depended upon, especially if he furnishes security for the fulfilment of his contract. If, however, honesty has not been made expressly a part of the bargain, a Chinaman thinks he retains the right of lying, cheating, and thieving, to the full extent of his opportunity and the utmost bent of his inclinations. In engaging servants, it is customary to require of them to produce securi- ties who will hold themselves accountable for their honesty and good conduct. Without an endorsement, no foreign merchant would think of taking a Chinese domestic into his household, any more than he would receive across the desk of his counting-room an equivo- cal note without the security of a good house or name. 186 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. It is difficult to form any just estimate of the higher classes in China without an opportunity, which few can possess, of mixing in intimate social inter- course with them. The foreign merchants, whose re- lations with the country are entirely commercial, have but little occasion of knowing any others than those engaged in trade. The missionaries have an opportunity, undoubtedly, of extending their obser- vations over a wider range, but their experience is generally confined to the outskirts of society. There was no very complete account of the social habits and characteristics of the Chinese people until the publication of Père Huc's book of travels, which contains certainly the best account extant of the inner life of China. What is seen by a casual visitor of Chinese society is not calculated to impress him very favorably. The position of women is such as to destroy all the best features of domestic life. Polygamy being allowed by the laws of China, as well as con- cubinage, women are naturally considered as mere household slaves, to gratify the passions and do menial service, at the wills of their lords and masters. The men do not treat females as equals, and seemingly avoid their society as much as possible; for they are passing their leisure hours at the tea and opium houses, while the women are kept at home in a state of do- mestic slavery. As As among the negroes on the west- ern coast of Africa, the wealth of a king or chief is estimated by the stock of wives he has been enabled to purchase, with all the cocoa-nut oil, gold dust, and elephants' tusks he can muster, so in China the num- ber of damsels who can be bought to call a man hus- MYSTERIOUS MOVEMENTS. 187 band, make his riches and swell his importance. The very wealthy and aristocratic are the exclusive few, however, in China, who can afford the luxury of a multiplicity of wives. The Commodore found Macao an exceedingly agreeable place of residence, as the picturesque beau- ties of the country were full of interest, and the town, with its pleasant foreign society, presented many at- tractions. During his stay there he made the ac- quaintance of many of the residents, among whom were the families of several of the Canton merchants having summer establishments at Macao, to which they are accustomed to retire during the hot months, and where they exercise the kindest and most liberal hospitality. He also exchanged the usual courtesies with the naval and diplomatic residents of foreign countries. The Commodore, however, did not care to linger any longer at Macao, as he believed that his duty called him elsewhere. About the close of November, the French Com- modore, in the frigate Constantine, then lying at Macao, suddenly put to sea under sealed orders. It was at the time well known, that in a day or two he was to have departed for Shanghai with the French minister, but on the arrival of the mail from Europe he hurried away without any one knowing in what direction. The Russian admiral, Pontiatine, in the frigate Pallas, and with three other vessels, was at this period at Shanghai, having just arrived from Nagasaki. The Commodore, suspecting that the Russians contem- plated the design of returning to Japan and of ulti- mately going to Yedo, which might seriously interfere EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 188 with his operations, and suspecting also that the same place was the destination of the French Commodore, became very anxious for the arrival of the storeship Lexington with some articles for presents on board. He determined, therefore, rather than allow either the Russians or the French to gain an advantage over him, to encounter all the inconveniences and exposure of a cruise to Japan in mid-winter. Nor was he to be de- terred from his purpose by the terrible accounts given by writers of the storms, fogs, and other dangers to be met with on the inhospitable Japanese coast during the inclement season. It had been originally the intention of the Com- mordore to wait until the spring had set in before going to the north, but the suspicion of the movements of the French and Russians induced him to alter his plans. The expected Lexington having fortunately arrived, after an unusually long passage, she was ordered to Hong Kong, there to land such part of her cargo as would not be required for the Japan service, and to take on board, in place of what she might dis- charge there, four hundred tons of coal. This being accomplished, the Commodore sailed from Hong Kong in the Susquehanna, on the 14th of January, 1854, for Lew Chew, in company with the Powhatan, Missis- sippi, and the storeships Lexington and Southampton, the two latter being respectively in tow of the steam- ers; the Macedonian and Supply, having been a few days before despatched for Lew Chew, there to join the Vandalia. The Plymouth was at Shanghai, and the Saratoga had orders to meet the squadron at Lew Chew. DEPARTURE FROM CHINA. 189 To provide for the security of the merchants at Canton, during the absence of his squadron, the Com- modore had chartered a small steamboat, to which was assigned a suitable armament and crew, under the command of a lieutenant, who was ordered carefully to guard American interests. The squadron having set sail for Hong Kong, the course was directed through the Lymoon passage. It was thought desirable to get well to the northward before striking over to the south end of Formosa. The north-easterly current, which is constantly setting with great rapidity round the south end of this island, and with decreased velocity along its eastern coast, was es- pecially noticed during the voyage, and careful obser- vations were made upon its force, direction, and other characteristics, which resemble remarkably those of the gulf stream on our own coast. The mon- soon fortunately not having been very strong, a favor- able passage was made, with the two storeships in tow, as far as the northeastern point of Formosa, when they were cast off, with orders to follow the steamers to Napha, where the latter arrived on the 20th of January, and the former on the twenty-fourth of the same month. Here were found the Macedonian, Vandalia, and Supply. The Saratoga, however, had not yet made her appearance. A CHAPTER IX. * Six months had passed since the Commodore's last departure from Lew Chew, and now, on his fourth visit to that interesting island, he observed a very marked change in the conduct of the Lew Chewans towards the Americans. The authorities readily fur- nished whatever was required, and received a due price for it, seemingly as a matter of course, while the people had evidently thrown off somewhat of their reserve, and were more disposed to a friendly inter- course. The men in the street grew quite familiar with the sight of the strangers, and did not avoid them, while the women, even, no longer fled from the market places, but remained in charge of their stalls, ap- parently unmindful of the foreign intruders. The Commodore, soon after his arrival, gave notice to the regent that it was his intention before leaving Napha to visit the palace of Shui for the second time, thinking it not amiss, as the Lew Chewans seemed to be gradually yielding to American intercourse, to weaken by repetition the very strong opposition at first, evinced to opening the gates of the royal residence to THE COMMODORE VISITS THE PALACE. 191 foreign visitors. The regent, however, still exhibited a very decided aversion to the admission of the Com- modore within the sacred walls of the palace, and in a courteous communication, expressed a willingness to receive him, but a very strong preference for Napha as the place of reception. The Commodore, however, holding to his original intention, declared, in answer, that it would be far more respectful towards the em- pire of Lew Chew to go to the royal palace, and added that he would expect that horses, kagos, and kago- bearers should be in readiness to bear him and his attending party on the day proposed for the visit. The regent was prepared to meet this demand with all the usual variety of objections, in accordance with the crooked Lew Chewan policy, but they were an- swered by the Commodore's repetition of his original resolve. The regent accordingly put the best face possible on the matter, and made all the necessary prepara- tions; and when the Commodore, on the 3d of Febru ary, carried his intentions into execution, he was received with all proper respect and the usual courte- sies. He paid his first visit, as on the previous occa- sion, to the palace, accompanied by a military guard and a suite of officers, and was received with the same formal ceremonies. Immediately after, as on a former visit, the party proceeded to the regent's house, where they found a handsome feast in preparation, to which the Americans, having now somewhat accustomed their palates to the Lew Chewan cookery, succeeded in doing better justice than on the previous occasion. In the course of the entertainment the Commodore 192 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. informed the regent that he was desirous of obtaining for the United States mint, in exchange for American coinage of equal value, all coins in use on the island; as it was well known that the imperial money of Japan was in circulation in Lew Chew, although it had hitherto been carefully concealed. Both the regent and the pe-ching or treasurer declared that there were no coins in the island, except a few in the possession of the Japanese residents, who would not part with them. This declaration the Commodore was inclined to be- lieve to be, like most of their very positive assertions, false, and he therefore urged upon them a compliance with his request, and left with them a certain number of American coins, of about fifty dollars in value. The Commodore, at the same time, stated that he should expect to receive a number of Japanese or Lew Chew coins in exchange before his departure. The subject was then dropped; but just on the eve of the squadron's sailing, a formal communication was received from the authorities in the name of Shang-Hyung-Hiun, super- intendent of affairs in the Middle Hill prefecture, in the kingdom of Lew Chew, high minister, and Ma- Liang-tsái, treasurer, in which document it was stated, that on several occasions demands had been made for an exchange of Japan coins for American, but that it was impossible to comply. The reasons given were, that all the commercial transactions between Lew Chew and Japan were car- ried on by the interchange of commodities, and not by the use of coin. That all the gold and silver used by the Lew Chewans themselves for their hair pins were obtained from China. That although every LEW CHEW EXPLORED AGAIN. 193 effort had been made to obtain Japanese coins by careful investigations among those in Lew Chew en- gaged in trade with Japan, it had been in vain, as the Japanese strictly forbade by law the exportation of their money, and that none could accordingly be brought into the island. With this document the authorities returned the American coin that had been deposited with them, but as the Commodore refused to receive it, it was left in their possession. Exploring parties had been early despatched to make further investigations of the condition and re- sources of the island.. These investigations were di- rected chiefly to the examination of the geological formation, the nature of the soil, and the mineralogi- cal and agricultural resources of Lew Chew. The officers selected for the various duties were the chap- lain and several of the surgeons, whose studies and tastes were supposed to fit them especially for making those observations, which had more or less a scientific bearing. The chaplain concentrated his investigations upon the resources of the island in regard to coal, and the result seemed to prove the interesting and important fact of the existence, at Shah bay, of that combustible, a supply of which might be readily obtained by proper mining. The natives do not seem conscious of the presence of this valuable mineral in their island; they remain, probably, totally unacquainted with its uses. In the geological features of the island of Lew Chew, the first peculiarity that strikes the eye are the great masses of coral rock abounding every where, 9 194 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. even on the tops of the highest mountains, four or five hundred feet above the level of the sea. The steep promontories along the coast are generally com- posed of gneiss, while in the interior some of the loftier eminences show strata of slate. The base of the island is of the two combined, upon which the coral zoophite has built its structures, which by some internal convulsion have been upheaved to their present height. The soil on the surface is composed of the detritus of coral and decomposed vegetable and animal remains. As the streams are free of lime, it is conjectured that their springs take their origin from, and their currents flow through, those strata which are below the coral formation. The soil varies in accordance with the face of the country, being rich and fertile in the valleys and plains, and comparatively poor upon the mountain tops and their acclivities. The climate is generally favorable to culture, though droughts are said occa- sionally to occur, and the island must suffer from the typhoons, being in the direct range of their ordinary occurrence. The climate is undoubtedly highly fa- vorable also to health, as may be inferred, not only from the condition of the inhabitants but the topo- graphical characteristics of the island. The entire absence of marshes, together with the pure air con- stantly wafted over the land in the breezes from the surrounding sea, must exempt it from all miasmatic disease. Although situated near the tropics, the heat is so tempered by the sea winds and the elevation of the land, that it is never excessive. All the land in Lew Chew is held by government CULTIVATION OF SOIL. 195 and rented to large tenants, who, in their turn, sub-let it to smaller ones, who are the direct cultivators of the soil. The system of cultivation is rude and prim- itive, being performed by the hands of men and women, with the occasional aid, however, of the horse and bull. A rude kind of plough, chiefly made of wood, but tipped with an iron point, and of the old Roman model, is used. They have harrows, hoes, sickles, and axes, but all of simple and awkward construction. They have but small supplies of iron and evidently employ it with a very strict regard to economy. As rice is one of the chief products of Lew Chew and requires abundant supplies of water, a very ex- tensive system of irrigation is carried on. The ground is arranged in a series of terraces which succeed each other, from the acclivities of the hills down to the bottoms of the valleys, and the water of the neighbor- ing streams is directed into them from the sides by means of ditches and conduits. There are no dams, properly so called, but the irrigation is so graduated by means of the terrace-like arrangement of the land that the supply of water is gradual, and never in such excess as to produce any of the ill effects of flooding or surface washing. The land, generally, is divided into small allotments appropriated to single individ- uals, so that the surface of the country has rather the appearance of being divided into highly cultivated gardens than overspread with fertile fields. In pre- paring the land for the cultivation of rice it is first overflowed, and then the laborer, who goes to work knee deep into the mud and water, hoes it into fur- 196 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. rows. The plough is used subsequently for further loosening the soil, and is followed by the application of the harrow. All this process is carried on while the land is overflowed, and although this is con- sidered by our agriculturists as the very worst kind of farming, it seems very well adapted to Lew Chewan husbandry with its inferior implements. The rice is not sown broad-cast over the fields, but first grown in plots and then transplanted by hand. The water was observed always covering the fields, but it was not ascertained whether it was ever drawn off, probably, however, not until the harvest, which takes place be- fore the rice is "dead ripe." When this occurs the plants are cut, gathered into bundles, and then spread out to dry in the air and sun. The product gives something like twenty bushels to the acre, and the head of the grain is remarkably large and full, in con- sequence, probably, of the mode of growth by trans- plantation. The rice-fields probably yield two crops annually, with an alternation of a supply of taro or sweet potatoes, both of which are extensively culti- vated. Sugar cane, wheat, cotton, barley in small quantities, tobacco, several varieties of millet, sago, beans, peanuts, turnips, peas, radishes of very large size, some being three feet in length and twelve inches in circumference, egg-plants, onions, and cucumbers, are all found growing on the island. Of fruits there are the peach, the watermelon, the banana, the wild raspberry, and the fig. Grass is not cultivated, but some wild and coarse varieties are occasionally seen. It might be supposed by the casual observer, from the beautiful aspect presented by the rich growth of THE FLORA. 197 the island, that the variety of the vegetable kingdom is very great. Close investigation, however, proves the reverse, for there is a remarkable sameness per- vading nearly the whole country from north to south. The flora in some respects presents a tropical appear- ance, but not so much so as might be expected from the position of the island as compared with some others having a higher latitude. The trees that are most abundant, are the pine and the ban- yan, (ficus indica,) but as these are found growing in regular lines along the highways, forming beauti- ful avenues, leading to the tombs and villages, it is reasonable to suppose that they have been planted. The banyan is particularly abundant and is much used for hedges, being planted on the tops of the coral 198 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. walls which surround the houses, and pruned and cut into symmetrical forms. The vegetable ivory tree, the ebony, the mulberry, several varieties of the palm, the orange, the lemon, and the banana, are all found, but many of them are evidently not indigenous. Of flowers there is the camellia, which grows wild and bears a beautiful pink blossom, the dahlia, the morn- ing glory, the marsh mallow, the hibiscus, and some few others. The bamboo, which grows abundantly, is of the greatest use to the inhabitants, supplying them with food, with material for clothing and for building, and, when in its natural stateliness of growth, with a beautiful shade for their houses and villages. The ferns are exceedingly fine, and some of them are of the large and spreading variety. The agriculture of the island, though of the simplest character, seems to answer its purpose admirably. Of the five hun- dred thousand acres, embraced by the whole area of Great Lew Chew, one eighth at least is under culti- vation, producing, it is supposed, about two hundred thousand bushels of rice, fifty thousand bushels of wheat, with the additional product of thirty-five thousand acres of sweet potatoes, two thousand acres of sugar cane, and a considerable number of acres of beans, taro, and other kinds of grain and vegetables. The agricultural machinery is simple in principle but generally effective. The sugar mills consist of three cylinders of hard wood, supported in an up- right position by means of a wooden frame. The cylinders are about a foot in diameter, and are ar- ranged in a row, with a mortise between them to regu- SUGAR MILLS. 199 late their approach and pressure upon the cane. The central one has a wooden axle or shaft extending through the frame which supports it, to which is at- tached a curved lever of fifteen feet in length, by which the mill is readily worked. This central cyl- inder has a row of cogs of hard wood near the upper end, which play into mortises cut into each of the two other cylinders. A single bull or horse is generally used to work the mill, and the animal moves in a cir- cuit of about thirty feet in diameter. The cane is placed first between the central and right cylinders, and before its escape it is caught by the hand of the workman and, being twisted like a rope, is thrust in between the central and left cylinders, by which it is completely crushed and its juice expressed, which flows through gutters into a tub, placed in a hole near by. The juice is then conveyed to neighboring houses, temporarily constructed for the purpose, and there boiled in iron pans containing about eight or ten gallons. What use is made of all the sugar it is difficult to understand, as the common beverage, which is tea, is never sweetened. It probably is kept as a delicacy for the palates of the higher classes, who delight in sweetmeats and other confections of sugar, or sent as an export or tribute to Japan. In spite of an abundant product, sugar is evidently a scarce article among the common people, for one of the in- terpreters begged some from the Americans, as if he esteemed it a rare luxury. The refuse cane, after being pressed, is carefully dried and used as fuel. The Lew Chewans have also mills for the grind- ing of grain. These are made of excellent mill- 200 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. stones, and are worked by hand. The flour, how- ever, remains unbolted, but makes a good and sweet bread. The granaries are marked objects in every village throughout the island. They are generally constructed of either woven cane or wood, and in a square form, increasing in width from their base, which is supported upon posts placed upon stones, to the top which is covered with a rice straw thatch. They have the advantage of being well ven- tilated and protected from vermin, of which, especial- ly of rats, there is a great abundance. These grana- ries often contain as much as five hundred bushels, and as they are grouped together in numbers, amount- ing sometimes to nearly a score, they are supposed to be the property of the government. The population of Great Lew Chew must amount to between one hundred and fifty and two hundred thousand, since there are two large cities, those of Napha and Sheudi, and some thirty-six towns beside, with an average of about six thousand people each. The island seems to be peopled by two distinct races, the Japanese and the Lew Chewan, properly so called. They both have originally sprung, however, from the same stock. It has been supposed by some that the Lew Chewan people are chiefly allied to the Tagallas, a race which is spread over the Philippine, Marian, and other Pacific islands, and which originally sprang from the Malays. There is, however, no affinity be- tween the Lew Chew, Malay, and Tagalla languages, nor are the relations of their physical peculiarities such as to favor the opinion of a common origin. From the discovery, during the exploration of the PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS. 201 island, of some remains of ancient Hindoo worship, it was surmised that the Lew Chewans might possibly have been originally a colony from southern Asia. Whether these remains are the relics of a people living in Lew Chew previous to the present races, or only the vestiges of a religion once held by one of the present existing races, but now supplanted by the wide-spreading Buddhism, it is not easy to decide. It is probable that the Hindoo idolatry was introduced directly by means of priests coming from India as missionaries, or through the medium of the commer- cial intercourse which has, in all ages, existed between eastern nations. The Japanese and the Lew Chewans differ slight- ly from each other, the latter being more effeminate and somewhat less intelligent, but this may be owing to their simple, retired life, upon a remote island, where their wants are few, and nature is generous. They have, however, such strong resemblances that it is almost impossible to resist the conviction of their sameness of origin. They have both the same height, and very similar features. In both, the head is oval, approaching in form that of the European, the frontal bones rounded, and the forehead high, the face oval, and the general expression mild and amiable, the eyes large and animated, though more so in the Japanese than in the Lew Chewans; the irides in both are dark brown or black, the lashes long, and the eyebrows rather heavy and arched. The long angular form of the internal canthus of the eye is seldom seen, either in the Japanese or Lew Chewan. The nose in each is generally handsome, and well proportioned to 9* 202 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. the other features; the root of it is not depressed, as in the Chinese or Malay, and the nostrils are not so widely dilated. The cheek bones are not very prominent, and consequently there is a want of that squareness of face which is so remarkable in some eastern races. The mouth is rather large, the teeth broad, very white and strong, and the chin neatly cut. One mark the Japanese and Lew Chewans have in common to distinguish them from the Malay or Chinaman; it is the possession of a strong black beard, of which both the latter are desti- tute to any extent. In other parts of the body the same conformity of organization exists in the Lew Chewan and Japanese. But it is not in mere physical conformity that we trace the same origin of both races. The identity of the two races is proved by the more satisfactory testi- mony of affinity of language, as may be seen by the following vocabularies : Japanese. Lew Chew. Water, Mizee, Mi-dsoo. Tea, Chaa, Ts-ga. Sun, Fee, Fi. Fire, Fiee, Fi. Moon, Sichee, Ts'ki. Star, Huzee, Ho-si. Wind, Hadzee, Ka-zee. Chicken, Nuatuee, Ne-wa-ts-ri. Egg, Tomague, To-ma-go. Sea, Oomee, Oo-mi. Eye, Mee, Me. Hand, Tee, Te. Nose, Hanaa, Ha-na. Mouth, Koochee, Koo-tse. LANGUAGE. 203 Tree, Kee, Ki. Rice, Kumee, Sweet potato, Karaemu, Pan, Nudee, Wine, Sakee, Ko-me. Ka-ran-da-imo. Ko-na-be. Sa-kee. Tobacco, Tobako, Ta-ba-ko. Basket chair, Kagoo, Silver, Nanzee, Ka-go. Si-ro-goone. Iron, Titzee, Tets'. Cap, Hachee-machee, Ba-oosi. Looking-glass, Ka-ga-me, Book, Soomuzee, Ka-ga-mi. S'yo-mots. Chair, Tee, K'yokf'rokf Stone, Ezaa, I-si. Swine, Boo-ta. Boobaa, It will be observed that two-thirds of the words, at least, in the comparative vocabularies, are, with the slight differences of spelling, almost exactly the same. The orthography of a language employed by a for- eigner depends more or less upon his capricious esti- mate of the sounds that the strange words seem to his ear to possess, and accordingly different observers will necessarily employ a variety of spelling. In these words in the comparative lists, which seem to differ, there will, on investigation, be found considerable affinity, and they will almost invariably show a com- mon derivation from the same root. Allusion has already been made to the full beard, as a distinctive mark between the Lew Chewans or Japanese, and the Chinese and Malayan. The men in Lew Chew in youth have almost invariably a rich jet black beard, which in age becomes as white as snow. The higher classes allow their beards to grow of great length, and cultivate them with great care and pride, 204 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. while the inferior people are obliged by law to cut theirs. The moustache is also generally worn, but seldom grows very luxuriantly. The hair is ordinarily of a deep black, and is allowed to grow in long locks behind and at the sides of the head, while the middle of the pate is shaved clean. The hair being well oiled and gathered from the sides and back, is formed into a large knot and affixed to the bald place on the head with pins either of gold, silver, or brass, according to the rank of the wearer. - The Lew Chewan male has generally a well pro- portioned figure, with broad and largely developed chest, narrow hips, and a slim waist and neck. A deformed person is a very rare sight in Lew Chew. The costume is neat, graceful, and suitable to the climate, and its flowing outline is particularly becom- ing to the aged, who, with their long white beards, have quite a patriarchal look. The dress is a loose robe, with very wide sleeves, which falls nearly to the ankles, and is gathered in at the waist with a girdle of silk or grass-cloth, to which is attached the invariable pouch containing the pipe and a supply of tobacco. The cap worn by the higher classes, and called in the Lew Chewan tongue a hachee-machee, is of cylindrical form, and seems to be made of two bands crossing each other in a figure of eight form. The laboring people go invariably barefooted, but the better classes wear a white stocking, to which when they go out, a straw sandal is added. A band from the front passes between the great and next toe, as is seen in ancient statues. The peasants in the country go bareheaded as well as barefooted, and are scantily clothed in a THE WOMEN. 205 coarse cotton shirt, or with a mere cloth about the loins. The women are kept so secluded, particularly those of a higher rank, that it is difficult for a stranger to obtain a sufficient opportunity to investigate their peculiarities very thoroughly. They are generally short of stature, and by no means handsome, having a great squareness of face, and more depressed noses than the men. Some of the ladies of distinction, the exclusive few, are described as being tolerably good looking, and of fair complexion. The women wear a robe very much like that worn by the men, though without the girdle, while the hair, none of which is shaved, is dressed in the same style, except that the top knot is rather more in front, and somewhat to the side of the head. Woman is by no means so high in the social scale in Lew Chew as she should be, being re- garded as a mere slave or chattel, and always slighted by the men, who seem hardly to notice her, either in the house or in the street, although the females in their deportment towards strangers show apparently much modesty and amiability. Marriages are arranged in Lew Chew, as with us, by match-making relatives, and the natural conse- quence is a good deal of conjugal discord, which, however, is more readily settled than by our tedious laws, by a very summary process of divorce. All the dissatisfied husband has to do is to send his wife back to her parents and try his luck again. If the parents are too poor to receive their rejected child, her former husband builds a hut near his own house where he imprisons her for life with hard labor and 206 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. harder treatment, where she mourns her degradation and captivity within the sounds of the endearments her former partner is bestowing upon her successor in his affections. The Lew Chewans are a remarkably courteous people in their ordinary intercourse with each other, and in their occasional relations with foreigners. Their usual form of obeisance is preposterously polite, they clasp their hands with a spasmodic earnestness of courtesy, and pressing them to their forehead, bow so low that it is a marvel how they preserve their centre of gravity. The ordinary bending of the body, which seems to be to the utmost extent of suppleness of back, is still further extended on coming into the presence of those of very high rank, when the polite but inferior Lew Chewan bows so low as literally to touch, if not fall upon the ground. The people of Lew Chew are naturally among the most intelligent of the eastern nations, but they are kept in general ignorance by their rulers. The higher classes are well instructed in the learning of China, whither the literati and professional men, and espe- cially the physicians, are sent to finish their education. The literature, whatever they may possess, is derived from the Chinese and Japanese. The occupation of the Lew Chewans is chiefly agricultural, although they have some little commerce with China and Japan, to which they send annually a few junks, which carry such articles of clothing and provision as can be spared, and bring back in ex- change the productions of those countries. They have apparently no currency of their own, but in spite of ARTS. 207 their protestations to the contrary, they are evidently familiar with money, particularly with the Chinese copper coin termed cash. Their manufactures are few, and consist of sugar of a coarse kind, salt of an inferior quality, large vats for making which are found extending along the bay of Napha, Sakee, a spirit distilled from rice, cotton and grass-cloth of rude tex- ture, an inferior style of lacquered ware, pottery, hair pins, junks, agricultural tools, and a limited variety of other articles needed for their own simple life. In the higher arts, the Lew Chewans have not made much progress, although there are specimens among them of rude paintings and sculpture, particu- larly of the latter, in the coarse figures of their idols, with which they adorn their tombs and temples. In their architecture there is more evidence of advance than in the other branches of the fine arts. The ruins of the castles in the northern and southern parts of the island, and the structure of the palace of Shendi, with the various bridges, viaducts and roads through- out the country, show considerable architectural skill. In the arches and massive masonry of the fortresses, and walls of stone, there are marks, not only of artis- tic design, but of skilful workmanship. Their town houses are all constructed of wood, roofed with earthen tiles, surrounded with verandas of bamboo, and en- closed within high walls of coral. The cottages in the country are generally thatched with rice straw, and surrounded by either stone walls or bamboo picket fences, within which there is not only the house, but the usual farmer's concomitants of stable, pig pen, and poultry hutch. The furniture is of the simplest kind, 208 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. consisting of thick mats spread upon the plank floor, upon which the natives sit crosslegged, a few stools, a table, and a teapot with a supply of cups. The food of the people is simple, being mostly rice and sweet potatoes. Animal food is but rarely used by the low- est classes, and consists, when enjoyed, chiefly of pork. The higher ranks have a more elaborate cookery, and succeed in spreading occasional banquets, which were found quite appetizing. A great variety of soups, with various sweetened confections, and vegetable concoctions of different kinds, are the chief elements of the recherché Lew Chewan cuisine of the best tables. Of The Lew Chewans are a hard-working people, and enjoy but little relaxation from labor. They have certain festivals, but of not frequent occurrence, for the celebration of religious and national holidays. their amusements little could be observed, although it was inferred from the existence of large level spaces, handsomely bordered with spreading pines, in the neighborhood of the towns and villages, apparently adapted for racing, wrestling, and other athletic sports, that the Lew Chewans occasionally indulge in such exercises and amusements. In the markets there are frequently found for sale certain large balls, adorned with bright colored threads, supposed to be used in a game like that of our football. Captain Basil Hall, in his interesting but not very authentic account of the Lew Chewans, states that they were unacquainted with war; and in relating, during an interview with Napoleon, at St. Helena, his experiences of travel, startled that great soldier with } GOVERNMENT. 209 this unique characteristic of the Lew Chewans, which drew from him, as he shrugged his shoulders, the re- mark, "No wars; it is impossible!" Hall's state- ment would seem to be confirmed by the apparent absence of all arms or ammunition, or even the rudest weapons of attack or defence, such as bows and arrows. The ruins of fortresses and the walled de- fences of Sheudi, however, seem to indicate that the island has not always enjoyed this blessed condition of peace, and the Japanese histories record the fact of ancient intestine and foreign wars. The government of Lew Chew seems to be an ab- solute despotism, with a system of administration like that of Japan, to which the island is tributary. The present king is said to be a youth of some eleven years of age, under the immediate personal guardian- ship of a queen mother, while his government, during the minority, is delegated to a regency, composed of a regent and three chief officers, entitled pe-chings, or treasurers. As the policy of the government is to keep all foreigners in an absolute ignorance of its character, and as every kind of deception is resorted to for the purpose, it is difficult to acquire a full know- ledge of its nature. The very existence of a young king is doubted, since from the time of the first visit of Basil Hall, nearly forty years ago, to that of Com- modore Perry, the same story has been told about the minority of the ruling prince, and unless he is en- dowed with perpetual childhood, or there has been a succession of juvenile kings, it is difficult to reconcile the experiences of the various travellers who have visited Lew Chew in the long intervals of scores of 210 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. years. The literati, as in China and Japan, compose the higher and ruling classes, and, as in those countries, are prepared for official position by a diligent study of the doctrines of Confucius and Mencius. In fact, the young men belonging to families of rank are ordi- narily sent to China to complete their education, and fit them for their positions as officers of the govern- ment. The exclusive policy of Japan is that also of Lew Chew, and was rigidly adhered to until dissolved by the intercourse of the Americans under Commodore Perry. The system of espionage pervades the whole government from the administration of the highest to the lowest official. Most of the higher classes seem to have little else to do than to watch every word and movement of the people, and form a large body of indo- lent non-producers, who live idly upon the hard-tasked laborers of the lower classes, who are treated with all the rigor of social servitude. The great mass of the people are literally slaves, the services of whom are often bought and sold, and the poor wretches goaded to their work by the frequent application of the bam- boo. The country is supposed to have been conquered, centuries ago, by a Japanese prince of Satsuma, to the successor of whom it is believed to be tributary, although there are some relations not well understood with China. The religion of Lew Chew is the generally preva- lent Buddhism of the East, with a mixture of various idolatries peculiar to the island; there are, however, not many temples in Lew Chew, and those which exist do not attract a very large or a very devoted class of worshippers. As in China and Japan, a general skep- BURIAL OF DEAD. 211 ticism or religious indifference seems to exist, particu- larly among the literati, or higher classes. The Bonzes, or priests, however, are treated with greater rever- ence in Lew Chew than in most oriental countries, though they have the same forlorn look, and go about, with their shaven crowns and fusty garments, like similar miserable mendicants in China. Great reverence is paid to the dead in Lew Chew, where they are put in coffins in a sitting posture, and, being followed by the friends and relations and a pro- cession of women in long white veils which cover their heads and faces, are interred in well built stone Tombs in Lew Chew. vaults, or tombs, constructed in the sides of the hills, which, being of white limestone, are conspicuous ob- jects, particularly on entering the harbor of Napha. After the body has been interred for a period of seven 212 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. years and all the flesh is decayed, the bones are re- moved and deposited in stone vases, which are placed upon shelves within the vaults. The poor people place the remains of their dead in earthen jars, and deposit them in the crevices of the rocks, where they are often to be seen broken and disarranged. Periodical visits are paid by the surviving friends and relations to the burial places, where they deposit offerings upon the tombs. On the first interment of the rich dead, roast pigs and other articles of food are offered, and after being allowed to remain for a short time, are distributed among the poor. The purposes of the Commodore in regard to the island had been so far effectively carried out. The building for the storing of coal had been com- pleted, the temple appropriated for the accom- modation of the sick and others, whose duties made it necessary for them to reside on shore, had been secured, and those supplies obtained which were necessary for the squadron. With an occasional faint demur on the part of the authorities, they continued to accept payment for the various articles needed, and with their growing willingness to sell came an in- creased demand for higher prices. The friendly inter- course of the Americans with the inhabitants of the island had undoubtedly greatly contributed to their advantage. The most scrupulous regard had been observed toward the rights of the authorities and other classes, and they were all becoming less re- served. It was not an unreasonable inference, from the favorable disposition of the Lew Chewan people toward relations with a higher civilization, and from DEPARTURE FROM LEW CHEW. 213 a seeming sense on their part of the oppressive tyran- ny of their absolute rulers, that they would rejoice in being placed in a political position that might render them independent of Japanese despotism. A more demonstrative indication of the friendly feeling of the Lew Chewans for their foreign visitors would have been shown probably had it not been for the numerous Japanese agents and spies who were ever on the watch to notice and report to the impe- rial government every event that occurred, and to make those who manifested any friendship toward the Americans accountable at some future time. The Commodore, being detained at Napha in ne- gotiations with the authorities, thought it advisable to despatch some of the sailing vessels of the squadron to Yedo bay, with the intention of following soon after with his steamers. He expected to arrive, with the advantages of steam in his favor, in Japan at about the same time with those who had preceded him in their departure. Accordingly, Captain Abbot sailed on the first of February in the Macedonian, in company with the Vandalia, Lexington, and Southampton. The Com- modore followed on the seventh of February, with the steamers Susquehanna, Powhatan, and Mississippi. The store-ship Supply had been got ready, and was ordered to sail on the next day after the Commodore's departure for Shanghai, there to take on board a cargo of coal and some live stock, and proceed to join the squadron in Yedo bay. It had been arranged that Dr. Bettelheim, who had been superseded by another English missionary, a Mr. Moreton, should have a pas- 214 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. sage for himself and family in the Supply to Shang- hai. Dr. Bettelheim was no favorite with the Lew Chewans, who were anxious to get rid of him, and never ceased to invoke the Commodore to "take that man away." Dr. Bettelheim attributed this aversion to the influence of government, and avowed that were it not for its interposition, and its repression of all freedom of thought and action, the people of Lew Chew would be ready listeners to the teachers of Christianity. CHAPTER X. WITH Smooth seas and prosperous winds, the steam- ers made a rapid run, and on the fifth day after their departure from Napha, in Lew Chew, arrived off the mouth of the Bay of Yedo. A severe blow from the northward and eastward forced the vessels, however, to keep during the night under the lee of the island of Oho-Sima, in order to avoid the violence of the gale. The next day, however, opening more favor- ably, the three steamers stood up the bay. The out- lines of the coast were recognized from the recollec- tions of the previous visit, but a great change had come over the face of the landscape in consequence of the difference of season. The precipitous bluffs of Cape Sagami rose bleakly in the wintry atmosphere on the left, and the irregular coast of Awa, some twelve miles away on the right, showed dim and blue in the distance. The summit of Mount Fuzee-Yama peered high above the island of Niphon, and was now, with the surrounding mountains, completely clothed in a winter mantle of snow. The rich ver- dure of the land had lost its cheerful summer aspect, and looked withered, bleak, and sombre. The abun- 216 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. dant vegetation of the valleys was stripped of its fo- liage, and the bare trees swayed to and fro in the wintry wind which swept through them. Along the shores every where thronged the villages and towns, which looked desolate and exposed in comparison with their former appearance of rural comfort when nestling in the full-leaved groves of summer. On the steamers closing in with the shore on the left, as they advanced up the bay, two square-rigged vessels were observed, apparently at anchor, within a bight of the land in the neighborhood of Kama-Kura. They were soon discovered to be the Macedonian and Vandalia, the former of which had got aground by mistaking the bearings of the coast, and was now being assisted by her consort, which had gone to her relief. With the aid of the steamers the Macedonian was soon relieved from her perilous position, but as the day was far advanced, the whole squadron, in- cluding the Lexington, which had arrived during the evening, anchored for the night. In the course of the night a boat came alongside the Commodore's flag-ship, having been despatched by Lieutenant Commanding Boyle, of the Southamp- ton, which vessel, another of Captain Abbott's division, had arrived the day before at the American anchor- age in the Bay of Yedo. Lieutenant Boyle had received information from the Japanese authorities that two ships had arrived off Kama-Kura, and that one of them was ashore, and very promptly despatched the launch of the Southampton, with two officers and a suitable crew, to render all practicable assistance. AMERICAN ANCHORAGE. 217 The friendly disposition of the Japanese toward the Americans was handsomely illustrated by their offers of assistance as soon as the Macedonian was ob- served ashore. Such, too, was their courteous and scrupulous regard for the interests and property of their visitors, that they actually took the trouble of sending to the squadron, then at a distance of twenty miles, a hogshead of bituminous coal, which had been thrown overboard on lightening the ship, and subse- quently washed ashore. Next morning (February 13th), the three steamers, the Powhatan, Mississippi, and Susquehanna, with the Lexington, Vandalia, and Macedonian in tow, moved up the Bay of Yedo, sailing in a line ahead. With the experience of the navigation acquired on the previous visit, there was no occasion for the ships to feel their way cautiously as before, and they now confidently advanced up the magnificent bay. As the squadron doubled the promontory of Uraga, and passed the old anchorage abreast of the town, a large number of government boats, with their athletic oars- men sculling vigorously, and their little striped flags fluttering in the wind, pushed off to intercept the ships as on the previous visit. The squadron, how- ever, moved on majestically without altering its course a line, or lingering a moment in its speed, until the anchorage was reached. The place in which the ves- sels came to anchor was the appointed rendezvous, termed on the previous visit the "American Anchor- age," and where the Southampton, having arrived in advance of all the ships, was now found moored. The three steamers and four ships presented a formi- 10 218 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. dable force. Such a vigorous manifestation of power on the part of a far-remote nation, within the very centre of Japan, and at the distance of only an hour's sail from the capital, must have greatly impressed the secluded Japanese with the wonderful energies and resources of the United States and their own utter powerlessness to cope with them. The "American Anchorage" is situated on the western side of the Bay of Yedo, in the bight em- braced within two bold headlands, about twelve miles distant from each other. The position of the squad- ron was thus less than twenty miles from the capital of Yedo itself, and at about the same distance up the bay from the town of Uraga, which had been the scene of the interview during the previous visit on the reception of the President's letter. Although the winter is not very severe in that part of Japan, the climate of which is similar to that of Carolina, yet there was a very apparent change of season in the as- pect of the country, as, in fact, in the temperature of the atmosphere. The thermometer in the month of February did not often indicate a degree of cold less than 38°, but frequent blustering winds, prevalent fogs and rains, and occasional snow storms, made the weather chilly and uncomfortable. The surrounding country, in spite of the groves of ever-green pines, had a wintry look, and the vegetation even in the sheltered valleys was comparatively bare, while the distant hills and mountains were covered with snow. The island that had been called Perry's, which had presented such a picturesque appearance with its ver- dant groves during the summer, now lay within sight BOARDED BY JAPANESE. 219 of the squadron comparatively winter-stricken, with many of its trees stripped of their foliage by the winds and frost, and with the fort which crowns the summit of the rising ground more plainly visible. The villages of Otsu and Torrigaske, within the bend of the bay, about a mile distant from the anchorage, now but partially sheltered by the pines, stood out, with the staring surfaces and sharp outlines of their peaked-roofed and unpainted boarded houses, more distinctly defined. Two of the government boats had followed in the wake of the squadron as it moved up to its anchor- age, and the ships had hardly let go their anchors when the boats came alongside the flag-ship Sus- quehanna. The Japanese officials on board desired to see the Commodore, but as he was still determined to preserve a strict exclusiveness, and only present himself officially to the highest dignitaries of the em- pire, they were refused admission to the Susquehanna, and were directed to the steamer Powhatan. Here they were received by Captain Adams, when the members of the Japanese deputation were officially announced by their names, titles, and offices. The chief dignitary was Kurakawa Kahie, and his subor- dinates were two interpreters, who were recognized as those who had officiated on a former occasion, and three gray-robed individuals, who seemed to be mak- ing excellent use of their eyes and their note-books, and turned out to be Metske Devantigers—literally cross-eyed persons, or those who look in all directions -whose function was that of spies or reporters. Upon being admitted to an audience, the Japanese inter- 220 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. preters explained that the object of the visit of the deputation was to prevail upon the Commodore to move his ships to Uraga, where, as they stated, there were some high dignitaries appointed by the Emperor to meet the Americans. The Commodore had, how- ever, resolved not to go back to Uraga, and Captain Adams so stated to the Japanese, who, however, in- sisted that the proposed interview for the reception of the answer to the President's letter and for the ar- rangement of a treaty, must be held there, in accor dance with the imperial command. They then were told that if the Japanese Commissioners would not consent to meet the Commodore at a point opposite to his present anchorage, he would move his ships. further up the bay, and even to the capital itself, if it should be deemed necessary. Captain Adams, in the course of the conversation, alluded to the report of the death of the Emperor (of which the Commodore had received intimation through the Governor-General of Dutch India), but was not very explicit in his question, as there seemed to be some doubt of its truth. He merely stated that when the squadron had sailed for Japan he had heard that a high dignitary had died, and asked whether it was true. To which the Japanese answered, "Yes, a very high man died lately." Captain A.-"What was his rank?" Japanese official." He was a prince." It was thus a matter of the greatest difficulty to get at the truth, the Japanese being as indirect and evasive as possible in regard to the simplest matter of fact. Day after day the Japanese officials repeated their visits, and pertinaciously insisted upon the Commo- I YEZAIMON AGAIN. 221 dore's going to Uraga, while he resolutely and em- phatically reiterated his refusal. It was thought possible that negotiations might be facilitated by sending Captain Adams to confer directly with one of the princes at Uraga. He ac- cordingly was despatched in the Vandalia, and held an interview with the Prince Hayashi-Dai-Gaku-no- Kami, in the course of which the Commodore's views were again urged by Captain Adams, and were met with the usual objections by the Japanese dignitary. While the Vandalia was lying off Uraga, Yezai- mon, the Governor of Uraga, presented himself. This, it will be remembered, was the dignitary who had figured so conspicuously during the first visit of the squadron to the Bay of Yedo. His absence hitherto had created great surprise, and it was naturally feared that his conduct on the previous occasion had not been approved of by his government, and that he had fallen into disgrace, or possibly had been reduced to the disagreeable necessity of disembowelling himself. He, however, explained his long absence on the score of illness, and the immense pressure of public busi- ness. He expressed great pleasure in seeing his old acquaintances, and proved himself the same affable, courteous gentleman, as on all previous occasions. Yezaimon explained the object of his visit by pre- senting a letter from himself, in which he informally, as he stated, though undoubtedly with the connivance of the government, repeated the assurances of the friendly disposition of the Emperor, and earnestly solicited Captain Adams to use his influence with the "Admiral” to prevail upon him to concede the point 222 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. in regard to Uraga. Every thing, of course, was referred to Commodore Perry, although the belief was expressed that he would resolutely adhere to his original determination. Captain Adams now gave Yezaimon a letter which had been written to his friends by a Japanese who belonged to the squadron, and was generally known among the sailors by the nickname of Sam Patch. Sam was one of the crew, consisting of sixteen men, of a Japanese junk which had been driven off in a storm from the coast of Japan. An American mer- chant vessel, having fallen in with the junk, took the Japanese on board and conveyed them to San Fran- cisco, where they were removed to a revenue cutter. They remained in the cutter twelve months, when they were taken by the United States sloop-of-war St. Mary's to China, and there transferred to the Susque- hanna. When this steamer joined Commodore Per- ry's squadron, bound to Japan, the Japanese all pre- ferred to remain in China, lest if they returned home. they should lose their lives, with the exception of Sam Patch, who remained on board, and being regularly shipped as one of the crew, was with the squadron on the first, as he was now on the second visit to Japan. Upon his letter being presented to Yezaimon, he was requested to deliver it in accordance with the direc- tion, which he promised to do, but the Japanese seemed very much surprised at the fact of one of their countrymen being among the crew, and ex- pressed an earnest desire to see him. Yezaimon was accordingly promised that his request should be com- plied with in the course of a few days. SAM PATCH. 223 According to agreement, Sam Patch was brought forward, on a subsequent occasion, and presented to the Japanese officials, and no sooner did he behold these dignitaries than he prostrated himself at once, apparent- ly completely awe-stricken. Sam had been frequently laughed at during the voyage by his messmates, and teased by statements of the danger to which his head would be exposed on his arrival in his own country, and the poor fellow possibly thought his last hour had come. Captain Adams ordered him to rise from his knees, upon which he was crouching with the most abject fear, and trembling in every limb. He was reminded that he was on board an American man-of- war, perfectly safe as one of her crew, and had noth- ing to fear; but it being found impossible to reassure him while in the presence of his countrymen, he was soon dismissed. The Japanese, finding that the Commodore was not to be moved from his fixed resolve, at last yielded the point, and, giving up Uraga, appointed Yokuhama, a place much higher up the bay, for the proposed in- terview with the Commissioners. Ten days, however, had been spent in fruitless negotiations, and the Com- modore had put his threat into execution of moving his ships toward Yedo, and had approached so near to the capital that the striking of its night-watches could be distinctly heard, before the Japanese digni- taries had shown any disposition toward concession. Yokuhama is one of the numerous villages which succeed each other in an almost uninterrupted series along both sides of the Bay of Yedo, from the sea to the capital. It is situated at the head of what the 224 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. Americans have called Treaty Bay, and is distant about nine miles from Yedo. The Japanese having View of Yokuhama. hastily erected a temporary wooden building on the shore near the village, and the Commodore having anchored his squadron, consisting of three steamers and six sailing vessels, so as completely to command the position, the conference took place on the 8th of March. The Americans proceeded in large numbers to the shore, and having formed an imposing procession, with their officers, marines, and sailors in uniform, and their bands playing, escorted the Commodore and his suite to the entrance of the building. There was less military display on the part of the Japanese than there had been on the occasion of the reception of the President's letter. There were, however, nu- merous groups of pikemen, musicians, and flag-bear- ers, in showy costume, with their coats emblazoned with armorial bearings, arrayed on either side of the CONFERENCE WITH COMMISSIONERS. 225 approach. They were principally the retainers of the princes who were members of the Commission ap- pointed to confer with the Commodore, and were only present to add to the show of the occasion. The building itself was tricked off with streamers and ban- ners, and draped in front with a curtain, upon which was painted the arms of the Emperor, consisting of EMPEROR three clover-leaves embraced within a circle. Striped canvas was stretched on either side of the building for a long distance, and barriers were erected to keep off the multitude of Japanese who thronged about with eager curiosity. The Commissioners had been observed from the ships to come down from the neighboring town of Kanagawa, at an early hour, in their state barge. This was a large and gayly painted vessel, which, with its pavilion rising high above the hull, had very much the appearance of a Mississippi steamboat. White streamers floated from tall flag-staffs, varie- gated drapery adorned the open deck above, and a huge silken tassel fell from the prow nearly to the sur- face of the water. A fleet of row-boats towed the barge 10* 226 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. opposite to the landing, and the Commissioners then disembarked, while the crews of the thousand Japan- ese craft in the bay prostrated themselves as the dig- nitaries passed to the shore. The apartment into which the Commodore and his officers first entered was a large hall, arranged in a similar manner to that at Gorihama. Thick rice- straw mats carpeted the floor; long and wide settees, covered with a red cloth, extended along the sides, with tables, spread with the same material, arranged in front of them. The windows were composed of panes of oiled paper, through which a subdued and mellow light illuminated the hall, while a comfort- able temperature was kept up-for, although the spring, which is early in Japan, had already opened, the weather was chilly-by copper brasiers of burn- ing charcoal, which, supported upon lacquered wooden HAYASHI, CHIEE COMMISS stands, were freely distributed about. Hangings fell from the walls, adorned with paintings of trees.and representations of the crane, with its long neck, in every variety of strange involution. The Commodore and his officers and interpreters THE FIVE COMMISSIONERS. 227 had hardly taken their seats on the left, the place of honor, and the various Japanese officials, of whom there was a goodly number, theirs on the right, when the five Commissioners entered from an apartment IDO, PRINCE OF TSUS-SIMA SECOND COMMB ISAWA, PRINCE OF MIMASAKA THIRD COMMISSA which opened through an entrance at the upper end of the hall. As soon as they came in, the subordi- nate Japanese officials prostrated themselves on their knees, and remained in that attitude during their presence. The Commissioners were certainly august-looking personages, and their long beards, their grave but courteous manners, and their rich flowing robes of silk, set them off to the highest advantage. Their cos- tume consisted of an under garment somewhat simi- lar to the antique doublet, and a pair of very wide and short trousers of figured silk, which are charac- teristic of rank, while below, their legs were in- cased in white cotton socks, laced to some distance above the ankles. The socks were so contrived that the great toe was separated from the other four for the passage of the band which was attached to the sandal, and joined another from the heel at the ankle, 228 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. where the two were tied together. Over the doublet and trowsers a loose gown of embroidered silk, some- what of the shape of the clerical robe, with loose sleeves, was worn. This was secured to the waist, in which were thrust the two swords, a large and a small one, which mark the dignitaries of higher rank. Hayashi-dai-gaku-no-Kami, or Prince Counsellor, was evidently the chief member of the Commission, for all matters of importance were referred to him. He was a man of about fifty-five years of age, was hand- somely formed, with a grave and rather saturnine ex- pression of face, though he had a benevolent look, and was of exceedingly courtly manners. Ido, Prince of Tousima, was probably fifty, or thereabout, and was corpulent, and tall in person. He had a rather more vivacious expression than the elder Hayashi. The TSUDSUKI, PRINCE OF SURUGA FOURTH COMMISSA UDONO, MEMBER B'D REVENUE FIFTH .COMMISSIONER third, and youngest of the princes was the Prince of Mimi-Saki, who could hardly be much beyond forty years of age, and was far the best looking of the three. Udono, who, though not a prince, was a man of high station, and was known by the title of Mimbu- MATSUSAKI. 229 Shiyoyu, or Member of the Board of Revenue, was a tall, passable-looking man, but his features were pro- minent, and had much of the Mongolian cast. The fifth and last one of the five Commissioners was Mat- susaki Michitaro, whose rank and title were not dis- TAKE-NO-UCHI SHEITARO. SIXTH COMMISSR MATSUSAKI MICHITARO, SEVENTH COMMB was-con- covered. His precise business in the Commission it was difficult to fathom; he was always present at the conference, but took his seat constantly at rather a remote distance from the other dignitaries, on the further end of the sedan. By him, there was- tinually crouched upon his knees a scribe, who was constantly employed in taking notes of what was passing. Matsusaki was a man of sixty years of age at least, had a long, drawn out, meagre body, a very yellow, bilious face, and an uncomfor- table, dyspeptic expression, which his excessive short- sightedness did not improve, for it caused him, in his efforts at seeing, to give a very wry distortion to a countenance naturally not very handsome. Moryama Yenoske was the who officiated on the occasion. principal interpreter As soon as the Com- missioners had taken their seats, Yenoske took his 230 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. position, on his knees, at the feet of Hayashi the chief, and humbly awaited his orders. The crouching position in which an inferior places himself when in the presence of his superior in rank, seems very easy to a Japanese, but would be very diffi- cult and painful for one to assume who had not been ac- customed to it. The ordinary mode pursued is to drop on the knees, cross the feet, and cock up the heels, with the toes, instep, and calves of the legs brought together into close contact. Sometimes it is a mere squatting down, with the soles firm upon the ground, the knees bent, and the body crouched low. Yenoske was quite an adept in these manoeuvres, as were his coadjutors, and especially the Prefect Kura-Kawaka- hei, who was one of the subordinate functionaries present during the conference. The Commissioners, after a momentary silence, spoke a word to the prostrate Yenoske, who listened an instant with downcast eyes, and then, by a skilful manœuvre, still upon his knees, moved toward the Commodore's interpreter, and having communicated his message, which proved to be merely the ordinary compliments, with an inquiry after the health of the Commodore and his officers, returned with an appro- priate answer, to his former position. An interchange of various polite messages having been thus borne backward and forward for several minutes, through the medium of the humble but useful Yenoske, refresh- ments, consisting of tea in porcelain cups, of cakes, and some confectionery, served on lacquered trays, were handed round. It was now proposed by the Commissioners that an SIGNING OF TREATY. 231 adjournment should take place to another room. Ac- cordingly, the Commodore having consented, he, accompanied by the captain of the fleet, his two in- terpreters, and secretary, was conducted into another and much smaller room, the entrance to which was only separated from the principal hall by a blue silk flag, ornamented in the centre with the embroidered arms of Japan. On entering, the Commissioners were found already seated on the right, they having with- drawn previously to the Commodore, and arranged themselves in rank upon one of the red divans which extended along the sides of the apartment. The Commodore and his party took their seats on the left, and business commenced-the Commissioners having preliminarily stated that it was a Japanese custom to speak slowly. answer * The chief Commissioner now handed the Commo- dore a long roll of paper, which proved to be an to the President's letter, delivered on the previous visit at Gori-hama, in July. After some conversation in regard to the negotiations under con- sideration, the meeting broke up, and the Commodore and his escort returned to the ships. Several pro- longed conferences ensued, and the treaty † was not finally agreed upon and signed until the 31st of March, 1854. Business being over, there was now an opportunity for an interchange of courtesies, and for a friendly hobnobbing between the Americans and the Japanese, to which the latter, with all their supposed exclusive- ness and reserve, were by no means indisposed. The * See Appendix. + See Appendix. 232 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. Commodore had provided himself with a variety of presents for the Emperor and the Japanese dignitaries, and now took occasion to deliver them. He accord- ingly sent the telegraph apparatus and the diminutive railway on shore, and the American sailors, aided by the Japanese, were soon busy in putting them in work- ing order. In addition to these there was a liberal supply of books, Colt's pistols, Champagne, whisky, and perfumery. The Japanese were not to be outdone in generosity, and, accordingly, had provided a quan- tity of articles of the manufacture of their country as return gifts. These consisted of rich brocades and silks, chow-chow boxes for carrying provisions, tables, trays, and goblets, all made of the famous lacquered ware; of porcelain cups, pipe-cases, umbrellas, and various specimens of the Japanese wardrobe. There was one article which deserves mention, as it is a uni- versal accompaniment of all presents; it consisted of a bit of salt-fish, wrapped in sea-weed, and tied in an envelope of paper. Fish Present. These presents having been duly arranged in the Treaty House at Yokuhama, the Commodore and his JAPANESE PRESENTS. 233 officers were invited by the Japanese Commissioners, on a certain day, to receive them. After the ceremony of the reception of the various gifts displayed on the occasion, the Commodore prepared to depart, when Prince Hayashi said there was one article intended for the President, which had not yet been exhibited. The Commodore and his officers were accordingly conducted to the beach, where one or two hundred sacks of rice were pointed out, piled up in readiness to be sent on board the ships. As such an immense supply of substantial food seemed to excite the won- derment of the Americans, who were naturally aghast at the idea of conveying such a stock of Japanese rice to the remote distance of the White House-and, moreover, loading themselves with so much coal for Newcastle-the interpreter, Yenoske, remarked that it was always customary for the Japanese, when be- stowing presents, to include a certain quantity of rice. While contemplating these substantial evidences of Japanese generosity, the attention of the Commo- dore and his party was suddenly riveted upon a body of monstrous fellows who came tramping down the beach like so many huge elephants. They were pro- fessional wrestlers, and formed part of the retinue of the Japanese princes, who keep them for their private amusement and for public entertainments. They were twenty-five in all, and were men enormously tall in stature and immense in weight of flesh. Their scant costume-which was merely a colored cloth about the loins, adorned with fringes, and emblazoned with the armorial bearings of the prince to whose service each 234 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. belonged-revealed their gigantic proportions, in all the bloated fulnes of fat and breadth of muscle. Their proprietors, the princes, seemed proud of them, and were careful to show their points to the greatest ad- vantage before the astonished spectators. Some two or three of the huge monsters were the most famous wrestlers in Japan, and ranked as the champion Tom Cribs and Hyers of the land. Koyanagi, the reputed bully of the capital, was one of these, and paraded himself with conscious pride of superior immensity and strength. He was brought especially to the Commodore, that he might examine his massive form. The Commissioners insisted that the monstrous fellow should be minutely inspected, that the hardness of his well-rounded muscles should be felt, and that the fat- ness of his cushioned frame should be tested by the touch. The Commodore accordingly attempted to grasp his arm, which he found as solid as it was huge, and then passed his hand over the enormous neck, which fell, in folds of massive flesh, like the dew-lap of a prize-ox. As some surprise was naturally ex- pressed at this wondrous exhibition of animal develop- ment, the monster himself gave a grunt, expressive of his flattered vanity. They were all so immense in flesh, that they ap- peared to have lost their distinctive features, and seemed only twenty-five masses of fat. Their eyes were barely visible through a long perspective of socket, the prominence of their noses was lost in the puffiness of their bloated cheeks, and their heads were almost directly set upon their bodies, with only folds of flesh where the neck and chin are usually found. THE WRESTLERS. 235 Their great size, however, was more owing to the development of muscle than to the mere deposition of fat; for although they were evidently will fed, they were not the less well exercised and capable of great feats of strength. As a preliminary exhibition of the power of these men, the princes set them to removing the sacks of rice to a convenient place on the shore for shipping. All the sacks weighed one hundred and twenty-five pounds apiece, and there were only a couple of the wrestlers who did not each carrry two sacks at a time. They bore the sacks on the right shoulder, lifting the first from the ground themselves and adjusting it, but obtaining aid for the raising of the second. One man carried a sack suspended by his teeth, and another, taking one in his arms, kept turning repeated somersaults as he held it, and appa- rently with as much ease as if his tons of flesh had been only so much gossamer, and his load a feather. After this preliminary display, the Commissioners proposed that the Commodore and his party should retire to the Treaty House, where they would have an opportunity of seeing the wrestlers exhibit their professional feats. The wrestlers themselves were most carefully provided for, having constantly about them a number of attendants, who were always at hand to supply them with fans, which they often re- quired, and to assist them in dressing and undressing. While at rest, they were ordinarily clothed in richly adorned robes of the usual Japanese fashion; but when exercising, they were stripped naked, with the exception of the cloth about the loins. After the per- formance with the sacks of rice, their servitors spread 236 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. upon the huge frames of the wrestlers their rich gar- ments, and led them up to the Treaty House. A circular space of some twelve feet in diameter had been inclosed within a ring, and the ground care- fully broken up and smoothed in front of the build- ing; while in the portico divans covered with red cloth were arranged for the Japanese Commissioners, the Commodore, his officers, and their various attend- ants. The bands from the ships were also present, and enlivened the intervals during the performance with occasional stirring tunes. As soon as the spec- tators had taken their seats, the naked wrestlers were brought out into the ring, and the whole number being divided into two opposing parties, tramped heavily backward and forward, looking defiance at each other, but not engaging in any contest, as their object was merely to parade their points, to give the beholders, OD THE ENCOUNTER. 237 as it were, an opportunity to form an estimate of their comparative powers, and to make up their betting- books. They soon retired behind some screens placed for the purpose, where all, with the exception of two, were again clothed in full dress, and took their position on seats in front of the spectators. The two who had been reserved out of the band, now, on the signal being given by the heralds, pre- sented themselves. They came in, one after the other, from behind the screens, and walked with slow and deliberate steps, as became such huge animals, into the centre of the ring. Here they ranged themselves, one against the other, at a distance of a few yards. They stood for a while eyeing each other with a wary look, as if both were watching a chance to catch their antagonist off his guard. As the spectator looked on and beheld these overfed monsters, whose animal natures had been so carefully and successfully de- veloped, and as he watched them, glaring with brutal ferocity at each other, ready to exhibit the cruel in- stincts of a savage nature, it was easy for him to lose all sense of their being human creatures, and to per- suade himself he was beholding a couple of brute beasts thirsting for one another's blood. They were, in fact, like a pair of fierce bulls, whose nature they had not only acquired, but even their look and movements. As they continued to eye each other, they stamped the ground heavily, pawing, as it were, with impatience, and then stooping their huge bodies, they grasped handfuls of the earth, and flung it with an angry toss over their backs, or rubbed it impatiently between their massive palms or under & 238 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. their stalwart shoulders. They now crouched down low, still keeping their eyes fixed upon one another and watching each movement, and in a moment they had both simultaneously heaved their massive frames. in opposing force, body to body, with a shock that might have stunned an ox. The equilibrium of their monstrous persons was hardly disturbed by the en- counter, the effect of which was but barely visible in the quiver of the hanging flesh of their bodies. As they came together, they had flung their brawny arms about each other, and were now entwined in a despe- rate struggle, with all their strength, to throw their antagonist. Their great muscles rose with the distinct outline of the sculptured form of a colossal Hercules, their bloated faces swelled up with gushes of red blood, which seemed almost to burst through the skin, and their huge bodies palpitated with savage emotion as the struggle continued. At last, one of the antag- onists fell with his immense weight upon the ground, and being declared vanquished, he was assisted to his feet and conducted from the ring. The scene was now somewhat varied by a change in the kind of contest between the two succeeding wrestlers. The heralds, as before, summoned the an- tagonists, and one having taken his place in the ring, he assumed an attitude of defence, with one leg in advance as if to steady himself, and his body, with his head lowered, placed in position as if to receive an attack. Immediately after, in rushed the other, bellowing loudly like a bull, and, making at once for the man in the ring, dashed, with his head lowered and thrust forward, against his opponent, who น TELEGRAPH AND RAILROAD. 239 bore the shock with the steadiness of a rock, although the blood streamed down his face from his bruised forehead, which had been struck in the encounter. This manœuvre was repeated again and again, one acting always as the opposing and the other as the resisting force, and thus they kept up this brutal con- test until their foreheads were besmeared with blood, and the flesh of their breasts rose in great swollen tumors from the repeated blows. This disgusting ex- hibition did not terminate until the whole twenty-five had successively, in pairs, displayed their immense powers and savage qualities. From the brutal performance of the wrestlers, the Americans turned with pride to the exhibition to which the Japanese Commissioners were in their turn invited, of those triumphs of civilization-the tele- graph and the railroad. The telegraphic wires ex- tended nearly a mile in a direct line, one end being at the Treaty House and another at a building allotted for the purpose. When communication was opened up between the operators at either extremity, the Japanese watched with intense curiosity the modus operandi, and were greatly amazed to find that in an instant of time messages were conveyed in the Eng- lish, Dutch, and Japanese languages from building to building. Nor did the railway, with its Lilliputian locomo- tive, car, and tender, excite less interest. All the parts of the mechanism were perfect, and the car was a most tasteful specimen of workmanship, but so small that it could hardly carry a child of six years of age. The Japanese, however, were not to be cheated out of 240 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. a ride, and, as they were unable to reduce themelves to the capacity of the inside of the carriage, they betook themselves to the roof. It was a spectacle not a little ludicrous to behold a dignified mandarin whirling around the circular road at the rate of twenty miles an hour, with his loose robes flying in the wind. As he clung with a desperate hold to the edge of the roof, grinning with intense interest, and his huddled up body shook convulsively with a kind of laughing timidity, you might have supposed that the move- ment, somehow or other, was dependent rather upon the enormous exertions of the uneasy mandarin than upon the power of the little puffing locomotive which was so easily performing its work. Hillard Fillmore, President of HE UNITED STATES EMPEROR of JAPAN A www CHAPTER XI. To celebrate the occasion of the signing of the treaty, invitations to dinner were exchanged between the Commodore and the Japanese Commissioners. The American feast was to come off first, and accord- ingly on the day appointed the Powhatan was made resplendent, with all her streamers flying, and all the spare bunting tastily hung in fanciful devices about the decks and shrouds. A large number of officers from the various ships, in full uniform, gathered to assist as hosts during the festival, and the marines and sailors were dressed up and grouped in the most. effective manner. As the Japanese party was to be large and composed of different ranks, it was found necessary to spread two tables, one in the cabin for the High Commissioners, and another on the quarter- deck, beneath the awning, for the minor officials and subordinates. The Japanese guests arrived in due time and in great numbers, there being no less than seventy in all, and were received with salvos of artil- lery from the various ships, and a cheerful burst of music from the bands. The five Commissioners were conducted to the 11 242 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. cabin, where they were entertained by the Commo- dore and several of his superior officers. Yenoske, the interpreter, was also allowed, by special favor, to eat and drink in the august presence of his superiors, but only at a side table, where, however, he showed, though inferior in dignity, that he was at least equal, if not superior, in appetite to his betters. The Com- modore had long intended to give this banquet, pro- vided a successful result to his negotiations should justify such a conviviality, and had accordingly kept in reserve half a score of bullocks, a large supply of Shanghai fowls, and a flock of sheep or so, for the occasion. These, together with the ordinary cabin stores of patés, preserved game, various delicacies, and the unlimited resources of the Commodore's French cook, served to spread a feast that was not only substantial and abounding, but choice and appe- tizing. Wines, liqueurs, and other more potent drinka- bles, of course, abounded, and were by no means the least appreciated by the guests. The sweetness of the maraschino found great favor with the taste of the Commissioners, while its strength did not seem to raise any serious objection, although its effect was very perceptible. The Japanese dignitaries, with the exception of Hayashi-no-Kami, who ate and drank sparingly, proved themselves excellent trenchermen and "fair drinkers." The jovial Matsua-Saki was soon lost to all sense of Japanese reserve, and passed rapidly, under the combined influence of Champagne, maraschino, and Monongahela whisky, through all the gradations of bacchanalian delight, until he reached the stage of • JAPANESE POCKETING THE FOOD. 243 maudlin affection, which he demonstrated rather in- conveniently by embracing his host, and very serious- ly damaging a new pair of golden epaulets. The party on deck, which was much larger and more miscellaneous in rank and character, in the mean time, had become very uproarious, after having made way with unlimited supplies of solid food and numberless bowls of punch. Nor were the Japanese satisfied with what they so copiously and indiscrimi- nately appropriated to their present appetite, but loaded their persons with provision for the future. The Japanese have a practice of carrying away with them portions of the feast where they have been guests, and whenever the Americans were entertained. by them, they were expected to do likewise. Each Japanese carries in a pocket within the breast of his robe, a supply of paper for the various purposes of a pocket handkerchief-for he has no other-of taking notes, and of wrapping up the remnants of a feast. To the dinner succeeded an Ethiopian entertainment, got up by the sailors, and negro minstrelsy proved its catholicity of interest by being received by the Ja- panese with the same "unbounded applause" as in Broadway. A few days subsequently the Commodore and his officers were invited to a return feast by the Japanese Commissioners. The banquet was spread in the Treaty House, in the principal hall of which were ar- ranged narrow benches covered with red crape. The tables were the same as the benches, and were raised to a convenient height for eating by a square lac- quered stand placed before each guest. The guests 244 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. having taken their seats, in accordance with their rank, the Commodore and his suite being con- ducted to the dais where the Commissioners presided as hosts, and the other Americans being arranged along the tables in the lower apartment, the feast, after some preliminary compliments, began. A num- per of servitors at once thronged in, bearing upon lacquered trays several earthen cups. These con- tained a thick soup, which was accompanied by a supply of soy, or some other condiment. Soup suc- ceeded soup, and soup followed soup again, which seemed to be the staple article of the entertainment. There was but little difference of taste distinguishable by an American palate in these various dishes, and most of them seemed to have fresh fish as a chief con- stituent, large portions of which floated in the thick liquid. Between the services of soup, various sweet- ened confections and an abundant supply of ginger- bread and other cakes were handed round, while the silver vessels which contained the national drink of sakee-a kind of whisky distilled from rice-were kept diligently replenished. The sakee cups are mere thimbles in capacity, like those of Lew-Chew, but the Japanese have acquired by practice such a fa- cility in filling and emptying them, that they evi- dently lose nothing for want of larger goblets. Toasts and healths were passed, and the whole assemblage soon became happy and friendly. At the end of the dinner, a dish containing a boiled craw-fish, a piece of fried eel, and a square- shaped, jelly-like pudding was served to each guest, with the explanation that he was to carry those arti- THE JAPANESE DINNER. 245 cles with him, or that they would be sent after him, as in fact was done. The Japanese dinner, however, had left no such agreeable impressions upon the Americans that they cared to have any memorials to perpetuate its taste or memory. Japanese diet seemed particularly meagre in comparison with American fare, and soup, however desirable in its proper place, was found to be but a poor substitute for a round of beef or a haunch of mutton. The Prince of Tous- Sima, who had the character of being, like Talley- rand, not only an expert diplomatist but a finished gourmand, had brought all the resources of his own kitchen, under the immediate superintendence of his far-famed cook, to bear upon the dinner, and yet the result was by no means satisfactory to a vigorous nautical appetite. The Commodore had now been nearly two months in the Bay of Yedo, most of which time had been spent in negotiations preliminary to the formation of the treaty. Although during this period there was but little opportunity, in consequence of the jealous interposition of the authorities, of having much inti- mate intercourse with the people, there were, not- withstanding, occasional opportunities of observation of their peculiarities. After the negotiations had terminated, the Commo- dore insisted upon the privilege being granted to his of ficers of visiting the neighborhood. This was accorded, but under severe restrictions, limiting the visits of the Americans to within certain fixed limits, and the Ja- panese people were so strictly watched on these occa- sions by the police and spies, that they did not dare 246 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. to speak with, and hardly to look at, the strangers. In obtaining water and other supplies, in the convey- ance of the presents back and fro, and putting up the telegraph, and arranging the miniature railroad, the Americans, however, were necessarily brought in con- tact with the natives. The common people always exhibited, on these occasions, a very friendly disposi- tion toward their visitors; and although they were generally reserved about themselves and their coun- try, as if constrained by fear of their superiors, they exhibited an intense curiosity to know all about the United States. It was difficult to satisfy their exceed- ing inquisitiveness, which seemed to be particularly directed toward the dress, every article of which they were desirous of handling and finding out the English name by which it was called. A button excited the highest interest, and the present of one was esteemed an immense favor. Their curiosity about the woollen clothing and the buttons of the Americans may be accounted for from the fact of the Japanese not having either. When visiting the ships, the mandarins and their attendants were never at rest; but went about peer- ing into every nook and corner, peeping into the muz zles of the guns, examining curiously the small-arms, handling the ropes, measuring the boats, looking eagerly into the engine-room, and watching every movement of the engineers and workmen as they busily moved in and about the gigantic machinery of the steamers. They were not contented with mere- ly observing with their eyes, but were constantly taking out their writing materials, their mulberry- JAPANESE SKETCHING. 247 bark paper, and their India ink and hair pencils, which they always carried in a pocket within the left breast of their loose robes, and making notes and sketches. Writing Implements. The Japanese had all apparently a strong pictorial taste, and looked with great delight upon the engrav- ings and pictures which were shown them, but their own performances appeared exceedingly rude and inartistic. Every man, however, seemed anxious to try his skill at drawing, and they were constantly taking the portraits of the Americans, and sketches of the various articles that appeared curious to them, with a result, which, however satisfactory it might have been to the artists, (and it must be conceded. they exhibited no little exultation,) was far from showing any encouraging advance in art. Japanese are, undoubtedly, like the Chinese, a very imitative, adaptative, and compliant people; and in these characteristics may be discovered a promise of the comparatively easy introduction of foreign cus- toms and habits, if not of the nobler principles and better life of a higher civilization. The 248 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. Notwithstanding the Japanese are so fond of in- dulging their curiosity, they are by no means com- municative about themselves. They allege, as a reason for their provoking reserve, that their laws forbid them to communicate to foreigners anything relating to their country and its institutions, habits, and customs. This silence on the part of the Japanese was a serious obstacle to acquiring that minute informa- tion about a strange people, of whom curiosity is nat- urally on the alert to know everything. Much pro- gress will, however, never be obtained toward a thorough knowledge of Japan, until some of our men of intelligence are established in the country in the character of consular agents, merchants, or mis- sionaries, who may thus be enabled to acquire the language, and mingle in intimate social relations with the people. The common people were found much more dis- posed to fraternize than were the Japanese officials. It seemed evident that nothing but a fear of punish- ment deterred the former from entering into free in- tercourse with the Americans; but they were closely watched by their superiors, as in fact the latter were by their equals. In Japan, as in Lew Chew, probably, a closer in- timacy would have ensued, during the visits of the squadron, with all classes, if they had been allowed to follow their own natural inclinations, and had not been so jealously guarded by the numerous spies. No one, even of the highest dignitaries, is entrusted with public business of importance, without having one or more associated with him, who is ever on the alert to AN INTRUDING CHAPLAIN. 249 detect and take note of the slightest suspicion of de- linquency. Kura-Kawa-Kahei, the prefect, and Yenoske, the interpreter, paid almost daily visits to the ships, and had always something to communicate in regard to supplying the vessels with water and fresh provisions, the arrangements for which were under their especial care. When they came on board, as they were sub- ordinate dignitaries, they were not received by the Commodore himself, but by some of his chief officers, who were delegated for the purpose, and acted as his medium of communication with them. After one of these interviews (March 14), as Kura-Kawa and Ye- noske were about taking leave, a Japanese official hurried aboard from Kanagawa, and, in a state of considerable excitement, reported that an American officer had passed through that town, and was walk- ing very fast toward Yedo. His appearance, so said the messenger, was causing great excitement, and it was feared that unpleasant consequences might ensue. The Japanese officials, on hearing this, declared that the conduct of the American officer was in violation of their laws and of the promises made to them by the Admiral. The Commodore, when informed of the fact, directed guns to be fired immediately, and a sig- nal made recalling all boats and officers to their re- spective ships. He also prepared written orders, which were sent in different directions, commanding all persons belonging to the squadron to repair imme- diately on board. A copy of these orders was, on the instant, dispatched by the Japanese officials, then in the Powhatan, in pursuit of the American officer, 11* 250 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. reported to be on his way to Yedo. The Commodore's prompt action was handsomely acknowledged by the authorities, who sent him, next day, a formal expres- sion of their gratitude. The American officer, whose intrusion had created so great an excitement, was Mr. Bittinger, the chap- lain of the steamer Susquehanna. While taking a walk on shore, this gentleman's curiosity prompted him to extend his observations somewhat beyond the usual circuit of some four or five miles, within which the Japanese authorities had contracted the move- ments of their visitors. Starting from Yokuhama, opposite to where the squadron was anchored, the enterprising investigator pushed on to the town of Kanagawa, some three miles. further up the bay, where he was accosted by some of the Japanese officials and the interpreter, Gohatsiro, who urgently solicited him to return. He was not, however, to be so easily balked of his purpose, and continued his journey, followed by the Japanese offi- cers, who dogged his steps at every turn until he reached Kamasaki. Here there was a river to cross, and he tried to prevail upon the Japanese boatmen to ferry him to the opposite side, but they refused in spite of bribes and threats, in the course of which the chaplain, if the Japanese accounts are to be believed, drew his sword. He now pursued his way higher up the river with the hope of finding a place that might be forded, and had just reached a very promising look- ing crossing, the depths of which he was about trying when the messenger, who had hurried in rapid dis- patch from the steamer Powhatan, accosted him A FORCED EXCHANGE. 251 with the written order of the Commodore. "He," thus reported the Japanese authorities, with their usual minuteness of description, "read it, walked four steps further, read it again, then suddenly returned and intimated his intention of going back to the ship." The chaplain, in the course of his wanderings, had an opportunity of seeing one of the largest towns of Japan, that of Kanagawa, which, with its numer- ous wide streets, and its crowded population, had quite an imposing appearance. He penetrated into several of the dwellings and temples, and, by his per- tinacious perseverance, succeeded in obtaining, in one of the shops, some Japanese money in exchange for American coin. The native authorities seemed par- ticularly worried in regard to this last matter, as it was so great an offence against their laws. The Japanese, in their report of the occurrence, stated that the American officer had gone into a shop by the roadside, and asked the keeper to allow him to see some coins. The Japanese shopman complied with the request, but as he seemed somewhat chary in the display of his treasure, the chaplain insisted upon seeing more, which demand was also granted. Scales were now asked for, which being brought, the chaplain took out some silver pieces, and weighing them in one balance against the Japanese gold and silver coins, mixed indiscriminately in a heap, in the other, transferred the latter to his pockets, and left his American coin to console the shopman for the loss of his Japanese change. The authorities further reported that the chaplain was not content with gen- tle exhortations and mild persuasions, but had used 252 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. A threatening gestures, in which his drawn sword had figured conspicuously. They, however, mildly and courteously added in their report, "that they sup- posed that it was with no intention to do harm, but for his own amusement." There was a gentle and graceful charity in the suggestion of an apology for the conduct of the American officer, which showed an example in beautiful accordance with the precepts of the faith of the intruder, and well worthy of imi- tation. On the next day Yenoske brought back the sum of three dollars and a half in American silver coin, which had been left in compulsory exchange with the Japanese shopman, and stated that six pieces of gold, six of silver, and the same number of copper, were in possession of the chaplain. Yenoske request- ed that the Japanese money should be returned, which was done on a subsequent visit. The Japanese are naturally social, and freely min- gle in friendly intercourse with each other. Woman, too, participates in the enjoyments of society with no more restriction than with us. Evening parties are common to both sexes, where, as in the United States, the friendly cup of tea is handed round, and the com- pany is enlivened by the usual gossip and amuse- ments, such as music and card-playing. It is the jealous watchfulness of the government alone which prevents the people from the exercise of their natural companionable disposition in a friendly communion with foreigners. Polygamy does not prevail in Japan as in other Oriental countries, and the natural effect is a high appreciation of the female sex, and a rever- ence for the domestic virtues. A WALK IN JAPAN. 253 Japanese Musical Instruments. Little was seen of the women; but the Commo- dore had an opportunity on one occasion of making the acquaintance of a circle of Japanese ladies. After having been entertained at the Treaty House with the usual refreshments, the party (consisting of several American officers in company with the Com- modore), set out on a walk, attended by Moryama Yenoske, the chief interpreter, and several of the Ja- panese officials. A circuit embracing some five miles was the ex- tent of the field of observation, but this gave an opportunity of seeing a good deal of the country, sev- eral of the villages, and large numbers of the people. The early spring, in that temperate latitude, had now much advanced, and the weather, though never very severe, had become more warm and genial. The fields and terraced gardens were carpeted with a 254 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. fresh and tender verdure, and the trees, with the full growth of renewed vegetation, spread their shade of abounding green foliage in the valleys and on the hillsides of the surrounding country. The camelias, with the immense growth of forty feet in height, which abound every where on the shores of the Bay of Yedo, were in full bloom with their magnificent red and white blossoms, which displayed a purity and richness of color, and a perfection of development unrivalled elsewhere. As soon as a village or hamlet was approached, one of the Japanese attendants would hurry in ad- vance, and order the women and the rabble to keep out of the way. The Commodore spoke to the inter- preter, and took him to account, particularly for dis- persing the women. Yenoske pretended that it was entirely for the benefit of the ladies themselves, as their modesty was such that they could not withstand the sight of a stranger. The Commodore did not be- lieve a word of this, and plainly told Yenoske so. The imputation, though it expressed a doubt of his truthfulness, did not offend the interpreter, but was rather taken as a compliment to his duplicity, which is one of the most cherished accomplishments of a Japanese official. Yenoske promised that at the next town, where some refreshments had been ordered, the women should not be required to avoid the party. Accordingly, on entering this place, every man, wo- man, and child crowded out to see the strangers. The Commodore and his officers were conducted to the house of the mayor or chief magistrate of the town. This dignitary, with great cordiality, met and BLACK TEETH OF WOMEN. 255 welcomed them to the hospitalities of his establish- ment. The interior was quite unpretending, consist- ing of a large room, spread with soft mats, lighted with oiled paper windows, hung with rudely-executed cartoons, and furnished with the usual red-colored benches. The wife and sister of the town official were present, crouched on their knees in one corner of the apartment, and smiled a timid welcome to the visitors. These women were barefooted and bare- legged, and were dressed very nearly alike, in dark- colored robes, with much of the undress look of night- gowns, secured by a broad band passing round the waist. Their figures were fat and dumpy, or, at any rate, appeared so in their ungraceful drapery; but their faces were not wanting in expression, for which they were very much indebted to their eyes, which were black as well as their hair, that was fastened up at the top of the head like that of the men, although not shaved in front. As their "ruby" lips parted in smiling graciously, they displayed a row of black teeth, set in horribly corroded gums. The married women of Japan enjoy the exclusive privilege of dyeing their teeth, which is done with a mixture of urine, filings of iron, and sakee, termed ohagur or camri. This compound, as might be natur- ally inferred from its composition, is neither pleasantly perfumed nor very wholesome. It is so corrosive that, on applying it to the teeth, it is necessary to pro- tect the more delicate structure of the gums and lips, for the mere touch of the odious stuff to the flesh burns it at once into a purple, gangrenous spot. In spite of the utmost care the gums become tainted, 256 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. and lose their ruddy color and vitality. We should think that the practice was hardly conducive to con- nubial felicity, and it would be naturally inferred that all the kissing must be expended in the ecstasy of courtship. This compensation, however, is occasion- ally lost to the prospective bridegroom, for it is not. uncommon for some of the young ladies to inaugurate the habit of blacking the teeth upon the popping of the question. The effects of this disgusting habit are more apparent from another practice, which prevails with the Japanese as well as with our would-be civilized dames-that of painting the lips with rouge. The ruddy glow of the mouth brings out in greater contrast the blackness of the gums and teeth. The worthy mayor had some refreshment prepared for his guests, consisting of tea, cakes, confectionery, and the never-absent sakee. With the latter was served a kind of hot waffle, made apparently of rice- flour. The civic dignitary himself was very active in dispensing these offerings, and he was ably seconded by his wife and sister, who always remained on their knees in presence of the strangers. This awkward position of the women did not seem to interfere with their activity, for they kept moving about very briskly with the silver sakee-kettle, the services of which, in consequence of the smallness of the cups, being in constant requisition. The two ladies were unceasingly courteous, and kept bowing their heads, like a bobbing toy mandarin. The smiles with which they perseveringly greeted their guests might have been better dispensed with, THE PEOPLE OF THE COUNTRY. 257 as every movement of their lips exposed their horrid black teeth and decayed gums. The mayoress was uncommonly polite, and was good natured enough to bring in her baby, which her guests felt bound to make the most of, though its dirty face and general untidy appearance made it quite a painful effort to bestow the necessary caresses. A bit of confectionery was presented to the infant, when it was directed to bow its shaven head, which it did with a degree of precocious politeness that called forth the greatest apparent pride and admiration on the part of its mother and all the ladies present. On preparing to depart, the Commodore proposed the health, in a cup of sakee, of the whole household, which brought into the room from a neighboring apart- ment, the mayor's mother. She was an ancient dame, and as soon as she came in she squatted herself in one corner, and bowed her thanks for the compliments paid to the family, of which she was the oldest member. As the officials no longer interfered with the Ja- panese, there was a good opportunity of observing them, though hurriedly, as the Commodore and his party were forced to return early to the ships. Every where a scene of busy activity met the eye, in the towns, the villages, the fields, and the farm-yards. Some laborers, up to their knees in water, were hoeing the lands, artificially overflowed for the culture of the rice; some were pounding the grain into flour with their heavy mallets; and others were busy lading their pack-horses with baskets and bags of meal for the market. The only idlers were the mothers, and 258 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. the babes they bore in their arms or carried upon their backs. The inferior people, almost without exception, seemed thriving and contented, though hard at work. There were signs of poverty, but no evidence of pub- lic beggary. The women, in common with many in various parts of over-populated Europe, were frequently seen engaged in field-labor, showing the general industry and the necessity of keeping every hand busy in the populous empire. The lowest classes even were com- fortably clad, being dressed in coarse cotton garments of the same form, though shorter, than those of their superiors, being a loose robe just covering the hips. They were, for the most part, bareheaded and bare- footed the women being dressed very much like the men, although their heads were not shaved like those of the males, and their long hair was drawn up and AMERICAN BURIAL. 259 fastened upon the top in a knot or under a pad. In rainy weather the Japanese wear a covering made of straw, which being fastened together at the top, is suspended from the neck, and falls over the shoulders and person like a thatched roof. Some of the higher classes cover their robes with an oil-paper cloak, which is impermeable to the wet. The umbrella, like that of the Chinese, is almost a constant companion, and serves both to shade from the rays of the sun and keep off the effects of a shower. One of the marines who had been long ill having died, the privilege of burying him on shore was de- manded, which, after some demur on the part of the Japanese, was finally granted. Accordingly, as had been arranged, a Japanese official went on board the Mississippi, to accompany the funeral party, for the purpose of pointing out the burial-place selected for the interment. 260 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. The boats left the ship with the body, attended by the chaplain, Mr. Jones, Mr. Williams, the interpreter, and a party of marines. The flags of every vessel in the squadron were hoisted at half mast as they pushed off. The body was borne to a very picturesque spot at the foot of a hill, at a short distance from the vil- lage of Yoku-hama. The chaplain, Mr. Jones, was robed in his clerical gown, and on landing he was re- ceived in the most courteous manner by some of the Japanese authorities, who showed none of their sup- posed repugnance to the Christian religion and its ministers. Crowds of the people had also gathered, and looked on with great curiosity, but with decorous respect, as the funeral procession moved slowly along to the sound of the muffled drum. The road lay through the village, and its inhabitants came out from their houses and open shops to behold the novel scene. The place chosen for the burial was near a Japa- nese place of interment, with stone idols and sculptured headstones, and as the procession came up a Buddhist priest, in robes of richly embroidered silk, was ob- served already on the ground. Mr. Jones read the service of the Protestant Episcopal church, and while he was officiating the Buddhist priest sat near by on a mat, with an altar before him, on which was a col- lection of scraps of paper, some rice, a gong, a vessel The ser- containing sakee, and burning incense. vice having been read, the body lowered, and the earth thrown in, the party retired from the grave. The Buddhist priest then commenced the peculiar ceremo- nies of his religion, beating his gong, telling his rosary of glass and wooden beads, muttering his prayers, 5 A SIGHT OF YEDO. 261 He was and keeping alive the burning incense. still going through his strange formulary when the Americans moved away, and crowds of Japanese con- tinued to linger in the neighborhood, about the crests and acclivities of the hills which bounded the scene. Mr. Williams, the interpreter, who had lived long in China, and was familiar with the Buddhist worship, recognized its peculiarities in the precisely similar ceremonies performed at the grave by the Japanese Japanese Grave-yard at Yokahamo.-Grave of Marine on the right. priest. A neat enclosure of bamboo was subsequently put up about the American grave by the authorities, and a small hut was erected near, for a Japa- nese guard to watch for a time, according to their custom. The Commodore had resolved to obtain a glance at the far-famed capital of Yedo, and accordingly moved his squadron so near to that city that, had it not been for one of those fogs so frequent in Japan, 262 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. he would have obtained a distinct view. Enough, however, was seen to confirm the reports of the im- mense size of the capital, the houses and buildings of which were observed to cover many miles of land. These, however, seemed to be merely peaked-roofed, unpainted wooden houses, such as are found every where in the villages and towns thronging both sides of the bay. The country in the neighborhood was highly cultivated with gardens and terraced fields, and the projecting spurs of land, which are character- istic features of the scenery, were crowned with for- tifications. Palisades, stretched for a long distance, were found protecting the approach to the harbor, but were supposed to be temporary structures put up to defend the city from the possible attack of the Americans. The Commodore's naval eye soon dis- covered that the capital, with all its parade of forts and palisades, could be readily made to yield to a few steamers of a light draught of water and a heavy armament; but as he was in the most friendly dispo- sition, after the concession of the treaty, toward the Japanese, he was not inclined to test their weakness or to display his own power. The Japanese authori- ties were, however, in great trepidation, and earnestly protested against the Commodore's sail up the bay, and were much relieved when he considerately turned round to his old anchorage without mooring in the face of the capital. The Commodore having dispatched all his business in the upper part of the Bay of Yedo, took his depar- ture with the two steamers, the Mississippi and Pow- hatan. The steamer Susquehanna had been sent to COMMODORE SAILS FOR YEDO. 263 China, the Saratoga to the Sandwich Islands, en route to the United States, with Captain Adams, bearing to Washington the new treaty, the Macedonian to the Bonin Islands, and the other ships to Simoda, where Commodore Perry followed them with his steamers on the 18th of April, 1854, and arrived in that port on the afternoon of the same day. Among the more important concessions of the treaty, was the opening of the two ports of Simoda and Hakodadi to American vessels, and the Commo- dore was accordingly desirous of visiting these places, and making a thorough investigation of their facilities for the purposes intended. Moreover, certain details for the regulation of American intercourse, subordi nate to the treaty, were yet to be agreed upon; and it was arranged that the Commissioners should meet the Commodore, for the purpose, at Simoda, after he had paid a preliminary visit to that place and Ha- kodadi. AND II // W.ROBERTS.SC. CHAPTER XII. SIMODA is on the island of Niphon, and is situated on the southern end of the promontory of Idzu, near the mouth of the lower bay of Yedo. The town lies low-whence its name of Simoda, the Japanese word for low field-on a plain where the valley, that ex- tends back between the hills, opens to the bay. The surrounding country presents the usual aspect of the scenery of the Gulf of Yedo, where alternate hills and valleys, richly cultivated, with terraced fields and gardens, succeed each other, bounded in the distance by a range of mountains, the loftiest summits of which were, in the month of April, covered with snow. A number of conical rocks and islands, here and there darkly shaded with groves of pine, project above the surface of the water of the harbor, and show the char- acteristic marks of volcanic agency. The town itself looks paltry enough, with the usual small, unpainted houses, but the eye is compen- sated by the richness and beauty of the surrounding landscape. The fleet of junks and other Japanese craft gathered about the mouth of the river Inodzu- Gawa, which flows through the town and empties TOWN OF SIMODA. 265 into the harbor, give some appearance of commercial activity to the place. A small trade, in fact, is car- ried on between Simoda and the interior, by means of this stream, which waters a valley populous with villages and rich with highly cultivated farms. Simoda is said to be the largest town in the prin- cipality of Idzu, and was at one time a mart of con- siderable importance. It was founded centuries ago, and was at one time the port of entry for vessels bound to the capital; but Uraga, further up the bay, having succeeded to this important function, Simoda has declined, and become comparatively a poverty- stricken place. The town of Simoda is compactly built, and regu- larly laid out. The streets intersect each other at right angles, and most of them are guarded by light wooden gates, with the names of the streets marked upon their hollow posts, within which are the stations of the watchmen. Through the town a small stream passes, the sides of which are walled with stone, and across it are thrown four small wooden bridges, which connect the opposite banks. The streets are about twenty feet in width, and are partly macadamized and partly paved. Simoda shows an advanced state of civilization, much beyond our own boasted pro- gress, in the attention of its constructors to the clean- liness and healthfulness of the place. There are not only gutters, but sewers, which drain the refuse water and filth directly into the sea or the small stream which divides the town. The shops and dwelling houses are but slightly built, many of them being merely thatched huts. A 12 266 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. few of the houses of the better classes are of stone, but most are constructed of a framework of bamboo or laths, and then covered with a tenacious mud. This latter, when dry, is again covered with a coat of plas- ter which is either painted or becomes black by ex- posure. Mouldings are afterwards arranged in diag onal lines over the surface of the building, and these being painted white, and contrasting with the dark ground behind, give the houses a curious pie-bald look. The roofs are often of tiles colored alternately black and white, and their eaves extend low down in front of the walls, and protect the inmates from the sun, and the oiled paper windows from the effects of the rain. On the tops of some of the houses wires are stretched in various directions, to keep off the crows, it is said; but whether on account of their being birds of ill omen, or only in consequence of their bad habits, was not very apparent. These houses have no chimneys, and there being occasional fires for cooking and other purposes, the smoke is left to force its way through the various crannies and cracks which may chance to exist, unless, as is sometimes the case, there are certain holes in the upper part of the walls, prudently left for the purpose. The buildings are generally but a single story in height, though many of the houses and shops have attics for the storage of goods and refuse articles. Some of the residences stand back from the front of the streets, with yards before them, al- though generally the latter are in the rear; and are variously appropriated, some for kitchen gar- dens, and others for pleasure-grounds, with flower- SHOPS AND HOUSES. 267 ing shrubs, ponds for gold-fish, and other ornamental appliances. There are a few buildings fronted with stone, while the main structure is of dried mud or adobe, which are used for the storage of valuable goods, as they are supposed to be better protected against fire. The fronts of the shops and houses have movable shutters, which at night are fastened to the posts which support the projecting roofs. Behind these are sliding panels of oiled paper, which are closed when privacy is sought, and opened for the purpose of seeing from the houses what may be passing, or displaying the goods in the inside of the shops. In lieu of the paper windows there are occasional lat- tices of bamboo. The title of the shop is displayed over the door or window, generally in some fanciful device, significant of the kind of business carried on. There are but few signs distinctly recording the trade or occupation, although there was one shop which bore on its front, in the Dutch language, the name in full of a Dutch nostrum, which seemed to be a popu- lar remedy in Japan, for the same was observed in Kanagawa. The finer goods were generally kept se- cluded from view in boxes and drawers, and seemed to be of a kind which indicated no great affluence on the part of the community. The internal arrangement of the houses and shops of Simoda is simple and uniform, though somewhat modified according to the position and business of the inmates. The door is on the right or left side, and is protected by the overhanging roof, under which the coarser goods are sheltered, and the customers when driving a bargain. From the front door a pathway C 268 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. leads directly to the rear, where there are various dwellings and outhouses, among which there is often the shrine for private worship. In the shops this passage way is crowded with baskets, stands, and trays, laden with various merchandise; and the walls on either side are provided with shelves, upon which goods are also heaped. In the best establishments, articles for sale are seldom displayed beyond turning the open ends of the boxes which contain them to- wards the street. In the interior of the houses there is a large frame- work, raised two feet above the ground. It is spread with stuffed mats, and is divided into several compart- ments by means of sliding panels. This house within a house may be applied to all the various purposes of trading, eating, sleeping, and receiving company, ac- cording to the pleasure or necessities of the proprie- tors. This cage or platform is used as the workshop by some of the various handicraftsmen, as, for exam- ple, the carpenters and lacquer varnishers; the black- smiths and stone-cutters, however, perform their heavier work upon the ground. The houses intended for lodgers are generally clean, and neatly spread with the usual soft and thick mats, which serve the double purpose of seats by day and beds by night. The names of the guests are re- corded as with us, but somewhat more publicly, as they are affixed to the door-posts on the street. The aristocratic gentry have their coats of arms emblazon- ed in full and displayed upon wide banners, stretched in front of their stopping places. The interiors of these hotels are by no means very magnificent in ap- 2 INHABITANTS. 269 pearance or complete in appointment. The entire absence of tables, chairs, sofas, lamps, and other es- sentials to comfort, interfere very seriously with a guest taking his ease at his Japanese inn. Moreover, the want of pictures, looking-glasses, and other pleas- ing appeals to the eye, gives to the establishment a very naked, cold look to a traveller who has a vivid recollection of the warm snugness of an English inn, or the luxurious completeness of an American hotel. The whole number of houses in Simoda is esti- mated at about a thousand, and the inhabitants are supposed to amount to nearly seven thousand, one- fifth of whom are shopkeepers and artisans. There are in the town, as elsewhere in Japan, a dispropor- tionate amount of officials, soldiers, and retainers, of the various princes and dignitaries, who add nothing to the productive resources of the country, but are great consumers of the results of the labor of the lower classes, who are forced to do much work and are allowed to enjoy but little of the profit. The peo- ple have, notwithstanding, a tolerably thriving ap- pearance, and it is seldom that a beggar is seen. The streets, with the exception of a few shops, which do but little business, show no signs of trading activi- ty. There is no public market-place, and all the daily transactions of buying and selling are conducted so privately and quietly, that, to a passing stranger, Simoda would appear as a place singularly devoid of any regard to the concerns of this world. The people have all the characteristic courtesy and reserved but pleasing manners of the Japanese. A scene at one of the public baths, where the sexes min- 270 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. gled indiscriminately, unconscious of their nudity, was not calculated to impress the Americans with a very favorable opinion of the morals of the inhabi- tants. This may not be a universal practice through- out Japan; but the Japanese people of the inferior ranks are, undoubtedly, notwithstanding their moral superiority to most oriental nations, a lewd people. Apart from the bathing scenes, there was enough in the popular literature, with its obscene pictorial illus- trations, to prove a licentiousness of taste and practice among a certain class of the population, that was not only disgustingly intrusive, but disgracefully indic- ative of foul corruption. The chief diet of the inhabitants of Simoda con- sists of fish and vegetable food. There are poultry, chickens, geese and ducks, and some few cattle, but the latter are used only for beasts of burden, and their flesh is never eaten. Rice, wheat, barley, and sweet potatoes are the chief articles raised in and about Simoda, although Irish potatoes, buckwheat, Indian corn, taro, beans, cabbages, cresses, and egg plants are produced to some extent. The wheat and barley are reaped in May, and the rice, which is first sown and then transplanted, as in Lew Chew, is ready for the latter operation in the middle of June, and these crops succeed each other year after year. During the winter, part of the rice-fields, that which lies low, is left fallow, while the terraces are turned into wheat fields. In preparing the fields for the reception of the young shoots of rice, they are overflowed with water, and then reduced by ploughing and harrowing into a soft well mixed mud. Subsequently, a substratum of TEMPLES OF SIMODA. 271 grass and small bushes is trodden down below the surface by the feet. The laborer, putting on a couple of broad pieces of wood, like a pair of snow shoes, goes tramping over the grass and bushes, laboring until they all disappear below the surface of the mud. This operation over, the small plants are transferred from the plot where they have been sown to the fields, where they are allowed to remain until maturity. The rice crop is ready for harvesting in the latter part of September or early in the ensuing month. Oxen and horses are occasionally used in agricultural operations, but the labor is mostly performed by hand. Whatever may be the moral character of the in- habitants of Simoda, it might be supposed, from the great number of places of worship, that they are a highly devotional people. There are no less than nine Buddhist temples, one large Mia, or Sintoo temple, and a great number of smaller shrines. Those devoted to the worship of Buddha have strange fanciful titles: the largest is called Rio-shen-zhi, or Buddha's obedient monastery; and there are the Dai-an-zhi, or great peace monastery; the Hon-gaku-zhi, or source of knowledge monastery; the Too-den-zhi, or rice field monastery; the Fuku- zhen-zhi, or fountain of happiness monastery; the Chio-raku-zhi, or continual joy monastery; the Ri- gen-zhi, or source of reason monastery; and lastly, the Chio-me-zhi, or long life monastery. Twenty-five priests and a few acolytes are attached to these tem- ples, and are supported by fees bestowed by devotees for burial services, and the various offices peculiar to Buddhism. The buildings are of wood, and although 272 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. generally kept in tolerable repair, show the effects of weather upon the unpainted surface. The roofs are tiled, and project, as in the houses, beyond the walls. The posts which support the superstructure are, to- gether with the rest of the wood work, covered with the famous Japanese lacquer. The floors, which are raised four or five feet above the ground, are neatly covered with matting. At the door of the main apart- ment there is a drum on the left and a bell on the right, the former of which is beaten, and the latter tingled, at the commencement of worship, to awaken the attention of the idols to the prayers of the devout. Between the door and the central shrine there are several low lecterns, or reading desks, near each of which there is conveniently placed a piece of wood carved in the shape of a fish, which is used to beat time during the chanting, which forms an important part of the religious services. The shrine, in which are arranged the ancestral tablets, in niches, seems to be an object of particular attention, for it was kept always in perfect order, and the monuments and idols were not allowed to suffer from want of repair or of a decent regard to cleanli- ness. The sculpture of the various images was no better in art or more imposing in appearance than the ordinary figures of Joss in the Chinese temples. An occasional picture is hung up as a votive offering upon the walls, representing, rather rudely, some event in the life of the worshipper, in the course of which he had reason, as he piously believed, to be grateful for the services of Buddha or some of his numerous progeny of subordinate deities. Certain HUNGRY DEMONS. 273 boxes, distributed about the temple, remind the Chris- tian visitor of the duties of charity, and he thinks with a pious recollection of the claims of the poor, which are suggested by a practice similar to that in the old churches of his own faith. His charitable feelings, however, are suddenly repelled when he learns the object of the boxes, for the label upon them reads: "For feeding hungry demons," and the promise which follows that, "his merit will be consolidated," is h- ·d- ly inducement enough to contribute towards the ne- cessities of the devil, or any of his voracious legion, unless he is as tender-hearted as Uncle Toby, who had a good word and no doubt an obolus for even the devil himself. In front of some of the temples pillars are found, upon which are inscribed an edict forbid- 12* 274 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. ding any liquors or meats to be carried within the sacred precincts. Connected with each monastery is a grave-yard, in which there is a great variety of monuments and tombstones. These are generally made of a green- stone found in the neighborhood of Simoda, and have the various forms of simple slabs, raised tombs, and obelisks. Among the monuments are distributed statues of Buddha, varying in size from the largeness of life to that of only a foot or less. They are repre- sented in various attitudes, some erect and others in a sitting posture, while many are carved in relief upon slabs of stone, where Buddha is seen issuing from an opening shell, and is figured sometimes with his hands clasped, or holding a lotus flower, a fly-trap, or some other symbol. A pleasant feature in the aspect of the otherwise gloomy burial places, disfigured by the coarse and grotesque art of a corrupt superstition, is the abundance of flowers which are plentifully dis- tributed about. These are placed, freshly culled, from day to day, in cups and troughs of water, which are deposited before the tombs and the idols. Offer- ings of other kinds are also frequently found near the various statues of Buddha and his kindred deities. The tombs and monuments, as with us, are in- scribed with epitaphs; but such is the moisture of the climate, that they are soon covered with moss and rendered illegible. Some of the fresher ones, however, could be deciphered, and it was observed that, as in our own practice, the rank, merits, and date of death of deceased, were usually recorded. That the good deeds of the departed may live after TOMBS AND EPITAPHS. 275 them, there is often a summary of their meritorious works during life, among which we read that some have recited one thousand, two thousand, and even three thousand volumes of the canonical books, an amount of pious performance which entitles them, says the eulogistic Japanese epitaphs, to heavenly felicity. An invocation, “Oh, wonderful Buddha!' generally prefaces the inscriptions. In the grave- yard of the Rio-shen-zhi, there is a sort of pantomimic record of the deceased, where, in a fenced enclosure of bamboo, there is a sepulchre of two personages of rank. Their statues and those of their families and servants are represented as if holding an audience, which indicates the rank of the deceased. Near the recent graves and tombs narrow boards or wooden posts are placed, on which extracts from the canonical books are written, exhorting the living to add to their stock of good works by diligently re- peating the pages of those excellent volumes, or vica- riously performing that necessary duty, by getting the priests to do it for them, and not neglecting to pay the customary charges. The canonical books supply many of the other inscriptions with various quotations, aptly chosen to extol the felicity of the departed,or to inculcate the shortness of life and the vanity of this world; one of the latter, when trans- lated, read thus: "What permanency is there to the glory of the world? It goes from the sight like hoar-frost before the sun. If men wish to enter the joys of heavenly light Let them smell a little of the fragrance of Buddha's canons.' ** Another was this: "Whoever wishes to have his 276 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. وو merit reach even to the abode of the demons, let him with us, and all living, become perfect in the doc- trine." And again: "The wise will make our halls illustrious and the monuments endure for long ages.' To them all was added a significant hint, that these hopes and aspirations were to be secured in their ob- jects by the prompt payment of the contributions levied on the living. At Yokuhama, in addition to these various Japanese inscriptions, there were boards upon which were written charms in the Thibetan or complicated Chinese characters, the purport of which the writers themselves do not profess to understand, but all appeared to believe they were effectual in ward- ing off malignant demons from disturbing the dead. The nine Buddhist temples are all situated in the suburbs, back of the town; and on the acclivities or summits of the hills, which bound them in the rear, there are shrines and pavilions erected within groves. of trees, which are approached by flights of stone steps. In the interior of these pavilions and shrines are rude images, or merely inscriptions, dedicated to the tutelary deities of the spot. Their purpose is to afford facility to those living near, or to the passer by, of appeasing and imploring the good and evil spirits which are supposed to visit the neighborhood. At the door and before the shrines there are always bits of paper, some rags, copper cash, bouquets of flowers, and other articles, which have been placed there as propitiatory offerings by the different dev- otees. The Rio-shen-zhi, the largest of the nine Buddhist temples, was set apart by the government authorities THE RIO-SHEN-ZHI. 277 for the temporary use of the Commodore during the stay of the squadron. It is situated on the south side of the town, and has quite a picturesque aspect, with a precipitous rock of over a hundred feet on one side, and a burial ground on the other, extending up the ac- clivity of a thickly wooded hill. Connected with the temple is a kitchen garden, which supplies the priests with vegetables, and pleasure-grounds with beds of flowers, tanks containing gold-fish, and various plants and trees. A small bridge, neatly constructed, leads from the gardens to a flight of steps, by which the hill in the rear is ascended. Adjoining the ecclesias- tical part of the establishment there is a hall used for lodgers, which is so constructed with sliding doors, that it may be separated into several rooms for the accommodation of many persons, or left as one apart- ment. The officers of the squadron were comfortably provided for here, and with an abundant supply of mats to sleep upon, good wholesome rice and vege- tables to eat, plenty of attendants, and everything clean, there was very little reason for complaint on the score of the material necessities of life. The large Mia, or Sintoo temple, is situated in the same part of the town as the Buddhist establish- ments. A wide street, the broadest in Simoda, leads to an avenue of fir and juniper trees, the vista through which is closed by the temple. As the visitor ap- proaches he comes to a bridge which is thrown over an artificial fish-pond, which breaks the continuity of the street, and as he enters the shaded avenue he passes over another miniature bridge beautifully con- structed of finely carved green stone. Two grim 278 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. : statues of armed men-whose fierce aspect is height- ened by the covering of moss and lichen which, with their irregular growth, roughen the rude sculpture, and, by their mottled color, give an increased savage- ness to its look-stand one on either side, as guardians of the temple. Several pairs of candelabras in stone are arranged near by, towards the termination of the ave- nue, and on their right is a square belfry of open woodwork resting upon a high foundation of masonry. From the roof swings a beam, which is used to strike the bell which hangs within. To the left is a low shed covering six small stone images of deified heroes, the flowers and coins lying before which indicate the worship of devotees. As the visitor advances he passes under a pavilion built over the pathway, and finds within various offerings, some paintings, coarsely executed, of junks and shipwrecks, a bow or two, and scores of queues, cut off by shipwrecked sailors, and hung up as testimonials of gratitude for the preserva- tion of their lives. Leaving the pavilion the visitor reaches a flight of stone steps beyond, which lead to the principal hall, which is elevated some six feet above the ground. Two stone lions, whose small heads and enormous un- gainly bodies show that the artist was equally unac- quainted with the grace of art and the truth of nature, guard the entrance. The porch is sustained by posts which are carved with grotesque representations of tigers' and elephants' heads, and other adornments, showing neither skill of hand nor beauty of design. The temple itself is constructed of wood with a cov- ering of thatch. The interior is not, like the Budd THE GOD-LIKE HACHIMAN. 279 hist monasteries, supplied with sliding panels, but contains two compartments-the main hall and an inner shrine, partitioned by a latticed bamboo screen. Within the latter is the image of Hachiman, the deified hero to whom the temple is dedicated. Standing in a niche, on either side, is the figure of an attendant dressed in ancient Japanese official costume, armed with a bow, as if awaiting the orders, as in life, of their superior. Before the god-like Hachiman there is the usual variety of devotional offerings. A large num- ber of paintings, of no great artistic skill, a frame containing the representation of a pagoda constructed of copper cash, a sword, bow and arrows, and a sub- scription list of at least thirty feet in length, hang from the walls of the shrine. This gigantic subscrip- tion list contains the names and donations of the con- tributors towards the expenses of the temple services. The idol of Hachiman is honored annually with a festival, termed matzouri, which occurs on the fif teenth day of the eighth month, when the subscribers are expected to pay up the amount of their contribu- tions, for which their names are down upon the enor- mous list. Before the image there is a box provided for the alms of those who are too modest to publish their names, or whose donations are too small to make much of a figure on paper. As the Japanese structures are unpainted, the woodwork soon turns brown and decays, requiring frequent repair and removal. There is always a sort of guardian or superintendent living on the premises, whose duty it is to keep in order the temple and grounds, most of which are creditable evidences of 280 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. their care. There are, however, some of these estab lishments which show either a careless superintendence or a low state of the exchequer, for several show signs of ruin and neglect. In addition to the one great Sintoo temple, there are various smaller shrines of the same faith dedicated to certain deified heroes, whose services are called into requisition by those of some particular occupa- tion, or on the occasion of a special emergency. The sites of these humbler places of worship have been picturesquely selected on the acclivities, or the sum- mits of the wooded hills which bound the town of Si- moda landward. The pathways which lead to them are handsomely constructed, often with causeways, bridges of a single Roman arch, and flight of steps, L THE MARINERS' TEMPLE. 281 all of stone, carefully sculptured and substantially built. Various gateways, guarded by stone statues of lions, or sometimes merely by pillars, upon which an inscription warns off intruders, divide at intervals the approach, while the sides of the avenues are shaded with fine trees of vigorous growth and abundant foliage. Some of the temples are so imbosomed in groves, that they are completely hidden from the sight, until their shaded thresholds are reached unexpectedly by the stranger. One of these was especially noticed for the beauty of its position and the perfection of its structure. It is particularly devoted to a patron saint of the sailors, and was called by the Americans "the mariners' temple," and those engaged in occupa- tions connected with the sea, constantly resort there, to invoke the aid of, or to return thanks to the enshrined deity. Groups of fishermen, with their baskets laden with the successful hauls of the day, gathered within the precincts of the sacred place, and gratefully sym- bolized, according to prescribed form, the gratitude of their hearts. Shipwrecked mariners prostrated themselves before the idol, and fulfilled their vows by the sacrifice of their queues, and other exercises of self-imposed penance, which they had pledged for their lives in the agony of impending danger. With- in the shade of the grove boatmen and fishermen were busy repairing their nets, and surrounded with their long oars, their baskets, and all the paraphernalia of their business, seemed to be invoking a blessing upon their labors, and propitiating the deity for good luck to the next day's fishing. The mariners' temple is one of the handsomest 282 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. structures in Simoda. A solid stone causeway, pass- ing over an arched bridge, with a low, well construct- ed wall on either side, leads to the steps of the build-. ing. The temple is built in the usual style, with a projecting roof of tiles ornamentally arranged in cor- nices of flowers and graceful scrolls, and supported by lacquered pillars. Over the doorway there is a fine specimen of carved woodwork, representing the sacred crane, on the wing, symbolizing as it were the unsettled life of the mariner. The body of the build- ing is closed partly with wall and partly with oiled paper casements. The usual stone lantern is found on the left, and from the door hangs a straw rope, which, being connected with a bell inside, is pulled by the devotee to ring up the deity, that he may be aware of the call, and be wide awake to the spiritual necessities of his visitor. The expense of these numerous religious establish- ments must be very great, and the tax upon the peo- ple of Simoda proportionately burdensome, but it was impossible to obtain any very exact data in re- gard to the amount. As the voluntary system pre- vails to a great extent, and ecclesiastical prosperity depends chiefly upon the generosity of the pious, the priests are very naturally stimulated into a very vigorous exercise of their functions, and are undoubt edly indefatigable laborers in their peculiar field. The country about Simoda is beautifully varied with hill and dale. There are the usual signs of elaborate Japanese culture, although from the more sparse population of the neighborhood there is more land left in a comparatively barren condition than race. NEIGHBORHOOD OF SIMODA. 283 further up the bay towards the capital. The bottoms and sides of the valleys are covered with gardens and fields, which are well watered by the streamlets which flow through every valley, and which, by artificial arrangement, are diverted from their course, and pour their fertilizing waters over the land from terrace to ter- There are four principal villages near Simoda. Kaki-zaki, or Persimmon point, lies at the end of the harbor, and contains barely two hundred houses. One of its monasteries, known by the name of Goku-zhen- zhi, was set apart, like the Rio-zhen-zhi, in Simoda, as a place of resort for foreigners; and within the ground attached is the burial-place appropriated to Americans. There is a good anchorage at Kaki-zaki for junks, and many of them take in their cargoes there rather than at Simoda. Passing over the hills in a south-easterly direction, we come to the village of Susaki, which, with its two hundred houses or so, hangs upon the acclivity of a wooded hillside, with its front extending down to the beach and facing the waters of the inlet. Its inhabi- tants are generally fishermen, and their boats, and even larger vessels, can approach the shore at all states of the tide. From Susaki a good road leads in a north-easterly direction to the village of Sotowra, a small hamlet, also situated on the seaside, but with a pleasing landscape inland, varied by cultivated fields and an undergrowth of dwarf oaks. A larger place, the town of Shira-hama, or White Beach, extends its houses along a sandy beach, some three miles distant from Sotowra, and is comparatively a flourishing set- tlement. Several quarries of trachyte, or green-stone, 284 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. are worked in the neighborhood, and large quantities of charcoal are prepared on the forest-crowned hills in the rear. Turning westwardly and ascending the hill beyond Shira-hama, the highest summit within five miles of Simoda is reached, from which the whole southern area and breadth of the peninsula of Idzu can be seen at one glance. Barren peaks rise to the view out of thickly wooded hills, whose sides open into valleys, down which the wild vegetation throngs un- til checked by the culture of the fields that surround the busy hamlets at the bottom. Where the beholder stands on the summit of the hill there is a small wooden shrine almost hidden in a grove of pines. The numer- ous pictures, flowers, rags, copper cash and decapi- tated queues found within, attest the popularity of the Zhi-zo-bozats, the deity of the place. Descending the hill by its north-western slope, the largest valley of the country round is entered. The river Inodzu-gama, which flows into the harbor of Simoda, passes through this, irrigating the cultivated banks and sustaining the commerce of the various vil- lages and towns in the interior. The hamlet of Hongo, containing about one hundred and fifty houses, is sit- uated on the river, which has been dammed at that spot, and turns five undershot mills for cleaning rice. This operation is performed by a very simple machine, which consists of a projecting piece of wood or stone attached at right angles to the end of a long lever, that plays upon a horizontal axis, and is moved up and down, like a pestle working in a mortar. This rude machinery is occasionally worked by RIVER HONGO. 285 2 OBERTS, SC. Japanese Rice Cleaner and Spade. water, as at Hongo, but more frequently by a man, who steps alternately off and on the long end of the beam. The river at Hongo is navigable for flat-bot- tomed boats, which frequent the place for charcoal, grain, stone, and other products. The country about is beautifully diversified, and the culture of the land is carried on to an extent that would hardly be be- lieved by one who was not familiar with the populous countries of the east. Every hill is but a succession of terraces, rising one above the other, from the base to the summit, and green with the growth of rice, barley, wheat, and other grain. At the opening of a small valley, which branches off from the main one near Hongo, is a small village, called Rendai-zhi, from the Lotus terrace monastery near by. From Hongo the valley widens more and more 286 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. until it reaches Simoda, where it forms an open expanse, like an alluvial plain. Along the base of the range of hills, and up their slopes, in the direc- tion of the harbor, the numerous farm-houses and abounding granaries, many of them of stone, and with substantial walls of the same material, exhibit a cheerful prospect of thrift and comfort. Nor are there wanting evidences of luxuriant enjoy- ment in the handsome dwelling houses, with their pleasure-grounds adorned with pastures of variegated flowers, artificial ponds of gold-fish, and fancy dwarf shade and fruit trees. West of Simoda the villages are smaller, and the hills which flank them of less height. In that direction there are no villages of a shorter distance than five miles from the town of Si- moda. Near two seaside settlements, towards the south-west, the inhabitants have excavated large chambers in the cliffs, some hundred feet from the shore, in which they store the sea-weed, which is a favorite article of food and for chewing, as tobacco is used with us, and whither the fishermen usually re- sort for shelter. The lower hills in every direction are covered with wood, from which large supplies of charcoal are made, which is extensively used for fuel for domestic and manufacturing purposes. The topographical characteristics of Simoda are such as to indicate a healthful climate. Its situation on the extremity of a peninsula, looking seaward, and the elevated ground which surrounds the town, secure the fresh breezes of the sea and a freedom from mias- matic influences. Simoda itself lies low, but the soil is dry, and the stream which passes through it flows. CLIMATE AND HEALTH OF SIMODA. 287 It rapidly and with a clear current of pure water. cannot be very cold, as Simoda is at the level of the sea, by the equable temperature of which the winter season is necessarily tempered. The hills under which the town snugly reposes, protect it from the full severity of the blasts from the snowy summits of the distant mountains. The climate is more or less variable in the winter and spring. The presence of snow upon the lofty peaks, although there is seldom frost or snow at Simoda itself, and the not unfrequent rains with the ever recurring fogs, give an occasional humidity and rareness to the atmosphere, which be- comes chilling to the senses, and must be productive of occasional inflammatory diseases, such as are frequent in the spring and winter with us. The change of the wind alternates often between the warm sea-breezes from the south, and the cold blasts from the snow- capped mountains inland, and produces the usual effects, doubtless, of such variations. In the summer it is occasionally very hot in the day time, but the nights are refreshed by the sea-breezes. From April 17th to May 13th, a record of the thermometer gives 72° as the highest, and 58° as the lowest point, and of the barometer 29.38 and 30.00. As the season ad- vances the mercury rises, no doubt, much higher, reaching probably 85° of Fahrenheit, or more. Si- moda is liable to the ordinary affections of temperate climates, but there seems no reason to suspect that it has a special tendency to any epidemic diseases. Since the treaty of Kanagawa, by which the port was opened to intercourse with the Americans, Si- moda has been separated from the jurisdiction of the 288 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. principality of Idzu, and constituted an imperial city, the authorities of which are appointed directly by the government at Yedo. There is a governor or general superintendent of the municipal and commercial affairs of the place, with a fiscal assistant or treasurer, whose particular function has regard to the revenues. Subordinate to these two officials, there are the same number of prefects or bugio, who again have under them various collectors and interpreters, whose busi- ness is the practical administration of affairs in the various departments of government and trade. The limit of the jurisdiction of the imperial officers is marked by six guard stations, neither of which is over a mile and a half from the town, placed on all the principal roads leading to Simoda. Beyond these, the inhabitants of the country are amenable as before to their own local government, while within them all persons are under the newly appointed authorities. Alkar 1 CHAPTER XIII. PRESUMING upon the privileges secured by the treaty, the officers, on their arrival at Simoda, began to frequent the shore and stroll freely about the streets of the town and in the neighboring country. The common people, as had been elsewhere observed, seemed very much disposed to welcome the strangers and engage in friendly converse with them. They exhibited their usual curiosity and thronged about the Americans, examining their dress with almost childish eagerness and delight. They fingered the officers' buttons, swords, and gay accoutrements, and pointing to them would ask, in their pantomimic way, the Eng- lish names for each article which struck their fancy. It was soon discovered, however, that the Japanese authorities were not disposed to allow of this free inter- mingling of the people with the Americans, and no sooner was it observed than various armed soldiers or policemen came up and dispersed their countrymen. Not satisfied with the exercise of this severe discipline upon the poor Japanese, the officials seemed determined to practise their authority upon the American officers. 13 290 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. It was found that, wherever the latter went they were followed by a squad of soldiers, who watched every movement, and dogged their steps with the perti- nacity of a pack of hounds. The people, under the orders of the local authorities, fled, and the town, with its shops closed and its streets deserted, was as sad as if it had been devastated by the plague. Even in their strolls into the country, the American officers found that they could not divest themselves of the perpetual presence and jealous watchfulness of the Japanese spies, who were evidently resolved to re- strict the freedom of their visitors, and put them under the most rigid surveillance. The Commodore, upon being made aware of this treatment of his officers, felt greatly indignant, as it was in violation of the stipulations of the treaty, and he determined to bring the authorities of Simoda, whom he held responsible, to account. He accord- ingly despatched his flag lieutenant and his two in- terpreters on shore, to call upon the prefect, and lay before him certain complaints which were specified in a memorandum, in which the Commodore expressed his dissatisfaction at the manner in which his officers were treated on going ashore, and protested against their being followed by soldiers, the dispersion of the people, and the closing of the shops. These, he de- clared, were at variance with the stipulations of the treaty; and threatened, if the annoyances should con- tinue, he would sail to Yedo with his whole squadron and demand an explanation. The prefect, upon hearing this protest of the Com- modore, replied that the Dutch at Nagasaki were 1 1 THE OFFICIALS CALLED TO ACCOUNT. 291 always followed by twelve or fourteen Japanese sol- diers, and seemed to think that such a precedent should be a rule of conduct for the Americans. He was, however, told that the treatment of the Dutch was not to be taken for a moment as a criterion by which the Japanese authorities were to judge of what was proper in their relations with the Americans, who had a "treaty of amity and intercourse" with Japan; and coming, as they did, to Simoda as friends, they would insist upon being treated as such, and suffer no infringement of privileges which had been guaranteed by a solemn compact. The prefect, moreover, was told that the Americans intended no harm to the peo- ple, but, on the contrary, desired the most friendly relations with them, and the freest intercourse, with- out being watched and restrained by soldiers, acting under the orders of their superiors. Such a surveil- lance as had hitherto been practised was what Ameri- cans were not accustomed to, and particularly as it would seem to indicate that they were intent upon commission of some outrage. the This resolute language produced its desired effect upon the prefect, who excused his conduct upon the plea that he had left Yoku-hama before the signing of the treaty, and had, in consequence, not been aware that it contained the clause "free intercourse." He would be obliged, he continued, to refer to his supe- riors at Yedo for instructions on this point, and ascer- tain how they construed that article; but, in the mean- while, he would give orders that the houses should not be closed, and try the experiment of allowing the offi- cers to visit the shore without being followed by soldiers. 292 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. The various officers of the squadron now visited the shore daily, and for a time there was apparently less disposition to interfere with their movements, or watch their proceedings. On one of these occasions a party had passed out into the country beyond the suburbs, when they found two Japanese follow- ing; but, as they were supposed to be a couple of spies on the watch, little notice was at first taken of them. Observing, however, that they seemed to be approaching as if stealthily, and as though desirous of seeking an opportunity of speaking, the American officers awaited their coming up. On being accosted, the Japanese were observed to be men of some position and rank, as each wore the two swords characteristic of distinction, and were dressed in wide but short trowsers of rich silk brocade. Their manners showed the usual courtly refinement of the better classes, but they exhibited the embarrassment of men who evi- dently were not perfectly at their ease, and were about doing something of dubious propriety. They cast their eyes stealthily about, as if to assure themselves that none of their countrymen were at hand to observe their proceedings, and then approaching one of the officers and pretending to admire his watch-chain, slipped within the breast of his coat a folded paper.* * This paper proved to be a letter in Japanese, of which the follow- ing is a literal translation by Mr. Williams, the interpreter of the squadron : "Two scholars from Yedo, in Japan, present this letter for the inspec- tion of the high officers and those who manage affairs.' Our attain- ments are few and trifling, as we ourselves are small and unimportant, so that we are abashed in coming before you; we are neither skilled in the use of arms, nor are we able to discourse upon the rules of strategy and A STRANGE ENCOUNTER. 293 They now significantly, with the finger upon the lips, entreated secrecy, and rapidly made off. During the succeeding night about two o'clock, A. M., (April 25th,) the officer of the mid watch, on military discipline; in trifling pursuits and idle pastimes our years and months have slipped away. We have, however, read in books, and learned a little by hearsay, what are the customs and education in Europe and America, and we have been for many years desirous of going over the 'five great continents,' but the laws of our country in all maritime points are very strict; for foreigners to come into the country, and for natives to go abroad, are both immutably forbidden. Our wish to visit other regions has consequently only gone to and fro in our own breasts in continual agitation,' like one's breathing being impeded or his walking cramped. Happily the arrival of so many of your ships in these waters, and stay for so many days, which has given us opportunity to make a pleasing acquaintance and careful examination, so that we are fully assured of the kindness and liberality of your excellencies, and your regard for others, has also revived the thoughts of many years, and they are urgent for an exit. "This, then, is the time to carry the plan into execution, and we now secretly send you this private request, that you will take us on board your ships as they go out to sea; we can thus visit around the five great continents, even if we do, in this, slight the prohibitions of our own country. Lest those who have the management of affairs may feel some chagrin at this, in order to effect our desire, we are willing to serve in any way we can on board of the ships, and obey the orders given us. For doubtless it is, that when a lame man sees others walking he wishes to walk too; but how shall the pedestrian gratify his desires when he sees another one riding? We have all our lives been going hither to you, unable to get more than thirty degrees east and west, or twenty-five de- grees north and south; but now when we see how but now when we see how you sail on the tempests and cleave the huge billows, going lightning speed thousands and myriads of miles, skirting along the five great continents, can it not be likened to the lame finding a plan for walking, and the pedestrian seeing a mode by which he can ride? If you who manage affairs will give our request your consideration, we will retain the sense of the favor; but the prohi- bitions of our country are still existent, and if this matter should become known we should uselessly see ourselves pursued and brought back for 294 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. board the steamer Mississippi, was aroused by a voice from a boat alongside, and upou proceeding to the gangway, found a couple of Japanese, who had mounted the ladder at the ship's side, and upon being accosted, made signs expressive of a desire to be admitted on board. They seemed very eager to be allowed to remain, and showed a very evident determination not to return to the shore, by the desire they expressed of casting off their boat, utterly regardless of its fate. The captain of the Mississippi directed them to the flag- ship, to which, on retiring to their boat, they pulled off at once. Having reached her with some difficulty, in consequence of the heavy swell in the harbor, they immediate execution without fail, and such a result would greatly grieve the deep humanity and kindness you all bear towards others. If you are willing to accede to this request, keep 'wrapped in silence our error in making it' until you are about to leave, in order to avoid all risk of such serious danger to life; for when, by-and-bye, we come back, our countrymen will never think it worth while to investigate bygone doings. Although our words have only loosely let our thoughts leak out, yet truly they are sincere; and if your excellencies are pleased to regard them kindly, do not doubt them nor oppose our wishes. We together pay our respects in handing this in. April 11." A small note was enclosed, of which the following is a translation : "The enclosed letter contains the earnest request we have had for many days, and which we tried in many ways to get off to you at Yoku-hama, in a fishing boat, by night; but the cruisers were too thick, and none others were allowed to come alongside, so that we were in great uncer- tainty how to act. Hearing that the ships were coming to Simoda we have come to take our chance, intending to get a small boat to go off to the ships, but have not succeeded. Trusting your worships will agree, we will, to-morrow night, after all is quiet, be at Kakizaki in a small boat, near the shore, where there are no houses. There we greatly hope you to meet us and take us away, and thus bring our hopes to fruition. April 25." i TWO JAPANESE TRAVELLERS. 295 had hardly got upon the ladder and mounted to the gangway, when their boat got adrift, either by acci- dent, or from being let go intentionally. On their reaching the deck, the officer informed the Commo- dore of their presence, who sent his interpreter to confer with them and learn the purposes of their un- timely visit. They frankly confessed that their object was to be taken to the United States, where they might gratify their desire of travelling, and seeing the world. They were now recognized as the two men who had met the officers on shore, and given one of them the letter. They seemed much fatigued by their boating excursion, and their clothes showed signs of being travel-worn, although they proved to be Japan- ese gentlemen of good position. They both were en- titled to wear the two swords, and one still retained a single one, but they had left the other three in the boat which had gone adrift with them. They were educated men, and wrote the mandarin Chinese with fluency and apparent elegance, and their manners were courteous and highly refined. The Commodore, on learning the purpose of their visit, sent word that he regretted that he was unable to receive them, as he would like very much to take some Japanese to America with him. He, however, was compelled to refuse them until they received permission from their government, for seeking which they would have ample opportunity, as the squadron would remain in the harbor of Simoda for some time longer. They were greatly disturbed by this answer of the Commodore, and declaring that if they returned to the land they would lose their heads, earnestly implored to be 296 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. allowed to remain. The prayer was firmly but kindly refused. A long discussion ensued, in the course of which they urged every possible argument in their favor, and continued to appeal to the humanity of the Americans. A boat was now lowered, and after some mild resistance on their part to being sent off, they descended the gangway piteously deploring their fate, and were landed at a spot near where it was supposed their boat might have drifted. On the afternoon of the next day, Yenoske, the chief interpreter, who had arrived from Yedo, came on board the Powhatan, and requested to see the flag- lieutenant, to whom he stated, that "last night a cou- ple of demented Japanese had gone off to one of the American vessels," and wished to know if it had been. the flag-ship; and if so, whether the men had been guilty of any impropriety. The flag-lieutenant re- plied, that it was difficult to retain any very precise recollection of those who visited the ships, as so many were constantly coming from the shore in the water- ing boats and on business, but he assured the inter- preter that no misdemeanor could have been com- mitted, or he would have been aware of the fact. The interpreter was then asked, whether the Japanese he referred to had reached the shore in safety, to which the very satisfactory answer that "they had" was received. The Commodore, upon hearing of the visit of the interpreter and the apparent anxiety of the Japanese authorities in regard to the conduct of the two strange visitors to the ships, sent an officer on shore in order to quiet the excitement which had been created, and THE TWO JAPANESE CAUGHT. 297 to interpose as far as possible in behalf of the poor fellows, who it was certain would be pursued with the utmost rigor of Japanese law. The authorities were thanked for the solicitude they had expressed lest the Americans should have been inconvenienced by any of their people, and assured that they need not trouble themselves for a moment with the thought that so slight a matter had been considered otherwise than a mere trivial occurrence unworthy of any in- vestigation. The Japanese were further informed that they need give themselves no anxiety for the future, as none of their countrymen should be received on board the American ships without the consent of the authorities, as the Commodore and his officers were not disposed to take advantage of their confi- dence or act in any way that would be inconsistent with the spirit of the treaty. If the Commodore had felt himself at liberty to indulge his feelings, he would have gladly given a refuge on board his ship to the poor Japanese, who apparently sought to escape from the country from the desire of gratifying a liberal curiosity, which had been stimulated by the presence of the Americans in Japan. There were other considerations which, how- ever, had higher claims than an equivocal humanity. To connive at the flight of one of the people was to disobey the laws of the Empire, and it was the only true policy to conform, in all possible regards, to the institutions of a country by which so many important concessions had already been reluctantly granted. The Empire of Japan forbids the departure of any of its subjects for a foreign country under the penalty of 13* 298 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. death, and the two men who had fled on board the ships were criminals in the eye of their own laws, however innocent they might have appeared to the Americans. Moreover, although there was no reason to doubt the account the two Japanese gave of them- selves, it was possible they were influenced by other and less worthy motives than those they professed. It might have been a stratagem to test American honor, and some believed it so to be. The Commo- dore, by his careful efforts to impress upon the au- thorities how trifling he esteemed the offence, hoped to mitigate the punishment to which it was amenable. The event was full of interest, as indicative of the in- tense desire for information on the part of two edu- cated Japanese, who were ready to brave the rigid laws of the country, and to risk even death for the sake of adding to their knowledge. The Japanese are undoubtedly an inquiring people, and would gladly welcome an opportunity for the expansion of their moral and intellectual faculties. The conduct of the unfortunate two was, it is believed, characteristic of their countrymen, and nothing can better represent the intense curiosity of the people, while its exercise is only prevented by the most rigid laws and cease- less watchfulness lest they should be disobeyed. In this disposition of the people of Japan, what a field of speculation, and, it may be added, what a pros- pect full of hope opens for the future of that interest- ing country! Some days subsequently, as a party of officers were strolling in the suburbs, they came upon the prison of THE TWO JAPANESE CAGED. 299 the town, where they recognized the two unfortunate Japanese immured in one of the usual places of con- finement, a kind of cage, barred in front and very re- stricted in dimensions. The poor fellows had been immediately pursued upon its being discovered that they had visited the ships, and after a few days they were pounced upon and lodged in prison. They seemed to bear their misfortune with great equanimi- ty, and were greatly pleased apparently with the visit of the American officers, in whose eyes they evident- ly were desirous of appearing to advantage. On one of the visitors approaching the cage, the Japanese wrote on a piece of board that was handed to them the following, which, as a remarkable specimen of philosophical resignation under circumstances which would have tried the stoicism of Cato, deserves a record: "When a hero fails in his purpose, his acts are then regarded as those of a villain and a robber. In public have we been seized and pinioned and caged for many days. The village elders and head men treat us disdainfully, their oppressions being grievous indeed. Therefore, looking up while yet we have nothing wherewith to reproach ourselves, it must now be seen whether a hero will prove himself to be one indeed. Regarding the liberty of going through the sixty States as not enough for our desires, we wished to make the circuit of the five great continents. This was our hearts' wish for a long time. Suddenly our plans are defeated, and we find ourselves in a half- sized house, where eating, resting, sitting, and sleep- ing are difficult; how can we find our exit from this 300 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. place? Weeping, we seem as fools; laughing, as rogues. Alas! for us; silent we can only be. "ISAGI KOODA, "KWANSUCHI MANJI.” The Commodore, on being informed of the im- prisonment of the two Japanese, sent his flag-lieuten- ant on shore to ascertain unofficially whether they were the same who had visited the ships. The cage was found as described, but empty, and the guards of the prison declared that the men had been sent that morning to Yedo, in obedience to an order from the capital. They had been confined, it was stated, for going off to the American ships, and as the prefect had no authority to act in the matter, he had at once reported the case to the imperial government, which had sent for the prisoners, and then held them under its jurisdiction. The fate of the poor fellows was never ascertained, but it is hoped that the authorities were more merciful than to have awarded the severest penalty, which was the loss of their heads, for what appears to us only a liberal and highly commendable curiosity, however great the crime according to the eccentric and sanguinary code of Japanese law. It is a comfort to be able to add, that the Commodore received an assurance from the authorities, upon ques- tioning them, that he need not apprehend a serious termination. There was, notwithstanding the promise of the prefect, very little improvement in the conduct of the authorities, and the Americans still found their liber- * The Commodore suspected the whole to be a trick of the authori- ties to test his adherence to the spirit of the Treaty. THL SPIES STILL ABOUT. 301 ty much restricted, and their privacy interrupted by the jealous watchfulness and intrusive officiousness of the soldiers and spies. The Commodore himself, on one occasion, when proceeding through the town in company with several of his officers, found that he was constantly preceded by two Japanese function- aries, who ordered all the people they met to retire within their houses and close the doors. The shop- men were evidently forbidden to sell their wares to the strangers, for the most trifling articles which they might desire to purchase could not be obtained on any terms. The Commodore found it necessary again to protest against this illiberal treatment, and sent his flag-lieutenant to the prefect to lay before him certain complaints and to insist upon their causes being im- mediately removed. The prefect was accordingly called upon, and informed that it appeared that he was determined to evade the full execution of the stipulations of the treaty, since, by allowing his spies or soldiers to follow the Americans, and by ordering the people to withdraw from the streets and to close their houses, he was placing every obstruction in the way of that friendly intercourse with the Japanese which was guarantied by the compact solemnly en- tered into between Japan and the United States. The prefect was then assured, that if these annoyances should continue, the Commodore would stop all rela- tions with the town and return to Yedo, as, although he had been eight days at Simoda, there had been very little improvement in the conduct of the authori ties, and his patience was exhausted. The prefect excused himself by averring that the 302 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. Commodore was mistaken in his allegations, and that the soldiers were present for the protection of the visitors, and were engaged, not, as was supposed, in ordering the people to withdraw and close their houses, but in directing them to welcome the Americans, and open their doors to them. Upon the flag-lieutenant, however, urging that his personal experience proved the contrary, the prefect said then that his orders had been misunderstood, and he would renew them and see that they were executed, that the Commodore might have no reason to complain thereafter. In re- gard to trading with the Americans, the prefect de- clared that he had received no instructions to allow of it until the opening of a bazaar. He was then answered that the officers merely wanted some small articles for their own use, and any purchases they might make could not be considered as coming within the technical understanding of the term "trade." It was then agreed, after some resistance on the part of the prefect and a long discussion, that whenever an American wished to buy any article he should give an order for it to the shopman, who would be directed to take the order and the purchase to the interpreter, by whom the article would be sent to the ships. The prefect then referred to the case of the two Japanese who had clandestinely visited the steamers, and seemed solicitous of obtaining some information in regard to their conduct, but his inquiries were ab- ruptly checked by the answer that the Commodore was not to be questioned by any of the subordinates of the government. As the Americans, subsequent to this last inter- ARRIVAL OF MACEDONIAN. 303 view with the prefect, began to frequent the shops and select articles for purchase, it was found neces- sary to establish some temporary currency. It was accordingly arranged, since the Japanese money, from the strict laws which governed its circulation, could not be used in dealings with foreigners, that United States coins should be received by the shopmen at Simoda. The value of these was estimated compara- tively with the Chinese copper cash, with which the Japanese were familiar, at the rate of 1,600 Chinese cash to one silver dollar. This the Japanese readily assented to, and became soon as eager as any other trading people to become possessed of the money of the Americans. On the 2d of May the Macedonian arrived from the Bonin Islands with a very welcome supply of fine turtles, which were distributed among the several ships of the squadron and greatly enjoyed. The mar- ket of Simoda was not well supplied with fresh meats; for, in consequence of the prevailing Buddhism and the simple habits of the people, there were but few animals which could be obtained for food. The poul- try were very scarce, and the few cattle in the place were too much valued as beasts of burden to be readi- ly offered for sacrifice to the carnivorous propensi- ties of strangers; so the arrival of the turtles was very gratefully welcomed by those on board ship, who, with the exception of a supply of fish and vegetables, had been long confined to a sea-diet of biscuit and salt junk. Two days subsequent to the arrival of the Mace- donian the Lexington was despatched for Lew Chew, * About the same as the exchange at Capton. 304 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. and on the 6th of May the Macedonian, Vandalia, and Southampton preceded the steamers and sailed for Hakodadi. One of the sailors on board the Powhatan having unfortunately fallen from aloft and died soon after, it became necessary to make some provision for his burial. The Japanese authorities readily assented to the request that he should be buried ashore. A place of interment was accordingly selected in the neigh- borhood of the village of Kaki-zaki, and thencefor- ward appropriated as the burial place for Americans. On the day of the funeral several Japanese officials. came on board ship, and saying that their laws re- quired it, asked to inspect the body. They, however, politely prefaced their demands with the remark that it was a formality about which the prefect and they themselves could exercise no discretion, but that they had no doubt it might be dispensed with for the fu- ture, on a requisition being made to the commission- ers. As the coffin was still unnailed, and there seemed no good reason for refusing to grant the request of the Japanese officials, they were allowed to see the body. The burial then took place, according to the usual Christian ceremonies, in the place on shore which had been appropriated for the purpose. Every thing seemed now to be on the most friend- ly footing, and it was with no little surprise and vexa- tion that the Commodore heard, from the reports of some of his officers, of an outrage which called for a prompt rebuke, and the demand for an apology from the local authorities. The Commodore's first impulse, in fact, was to dispatch a guard of marines on shore ´AN OUTRAGE REBUKED. 305 to arrest the Japanese officials who had been guilty, but, upon reflection, he determined to send his lieu- tenant to call upon the prefect and to lay before him the facts of the outrage, and to insist upon the fullest explanation and apology. The occurrence was sim- ply this three of the officers went ashore to amuse themselves in the neighborhood of Simoda with their fowling-pieces, and after a day's shooting, which was prolonged to a late hour, they betook themselves to one of the temples as a resting-place. As the even- ing was too far advanced to think of returning to the ships, it was proposed that the sportsmen should spend their night in the lodging apartment connected with the establishment. With a view courteously to avoid any misunderstanding, the officers first informed Tat- snoske, the interpreter, of their intention, which was supposed to be in perfect conformity with the under- standing with the authorities, who had specifically declared that either of the temples was at the dispo- sition of the Commodore and his officers for a resting- place. The three gentlemen had hardly, however, entered, and prepared themselves for a night's rest upon the soft mats of the apartment, when a great noise at the entrance, and the subsequent thronging in of a troop of soldiers, led by Tatsnoske and a num- ber of Japanese officials, disturbed their prospect of repose, and greatly aroused the indignation of the officers. The Japanese intruded themselves uncere- moniously into the sleeping apartment, and rudely in- sisted on the Americans leaving on the instant and re- turning to the ships. Tatsnoske and another official, finding that their 306 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. urgent appeals were unheeded, left with the inten- tion, as they said, of going to see the Commodore in reference to the matter. In their absence, the re- maining officials and soldiers became still more rude and insolent, but were soon brought to a civil silence and driven in fright from the apartment by the for- midable attitude of the three officers, who stood to their arms, and significantly cocked their revolvers. There was no further interruption to the tranquillity of the officers, but a guard was stationed in another part of the temple, where they remained during the whole night. The prefect was disposed at first to justify the conduct of his subordinates when the case was laid before him. He, however, upon a strenuous demand of the Commodore for an apology, disavowed the whole proceeding, saying that his subordinates had acted upon their own responsibility and without his knowledge, and that he regretted its occurrence. This apology was, of course, accepted, with a reminder, however, that for the future the Commodore could make no distinction between the prefect's own acts and those of his subordinates, but that the former would be held responsible in all cases. The prefect then expressed a desire to restrict the stay of officers during the night on shore to cases of necessity, but any such qualification of the privilege was positively denied; and as the Japanese "could not, of course, judge of the necessity which might require the Ame- rican officers to remain on shore, they must decide that for themselves.' "" All the difficulty now being removed, there was no DEPARTURE FOR HAKODANI. 307 further interruption to the friendly intercourse be- tween the people of Simoda and their American visitors. There were daily and most intimate rela- tions with the authorities, who seemed anxious to facil- itate the views of the Commodore, and superintended the supplying of his vessels with water, and all the provisions their scant resources afforded. As the day was now approaching, the 9th of May, which had been appointed for meeting the Japanese officials at Hako- dadi, the Commodore took his departure for that place in his flag-ship, the Powhatan, accompanied by the steamer Mississippi. The Macedonian, Vandalia, and Southampton had sailed previously for the same port. The storeship Supply was left at Simoda. On leaving the outer harbor, Oho-sima and other islands of the cluster, lying at the entrance of the Gulf of Yedo, came into full sight. For the sake of examining the former, and observing more closely the volcano on it, the steamers were steered so as to pass near its southern end. The volcano was in a state of active eruption, and there seemed to be either several craters, or one of great extent, as the vapor and smoke could be seen rising at short intervals and at different places along the crest of a ridge of mountains which extended to a distance of four or five miles. passing Oho-sima, the steamers hauled up for Cape King, for the purpose of establishing the position of that important headland by the meridian observations. Up to the southern end of Oho-sima there was but little current discovered, but after reaching the chan- nel between that island and Cape King, it was observed to run with considerable rapidity in a direction nearly After 308 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. east, and on doubling the Capes its velocity increased still more. In running along the coast between Capes Susaki, Serofama, and Firatatsi, or as the last is most gener- ally called, Cape King, the three prominent southern headlands of the promontory of Awa, there was a good view of the land, and every one was struck with the extraordinary extent and perfection of its cultivation. Every portion of earth, from the base to the very summits of the mountains, was terraced and planted with grain, and towns and villages were seen crowd- ing, in all directions, the hill sides and the valleys. As the steamers sailed along the coast, they came within the influence of the stream, called by the Ja- panese the Kuro-siwo, or great stream. It has, in its course, temperature, and the sea-weed which floats in it, some striking analogies with our gulf stream. While steering along the shore to the northward, the steamers, being about six miles from the land, and off Isomura, approached a fleet of fishing-boats, where there was noticed a discoloration of the water and an unusual drift of sea-weed. Soundings were then taken with the deep-sea-lead, and seventy-four, and then eighty fathoms, with a bottom of fine black sand, were found. The vessels still continuing to run along the shore within five or six miles, and the Dai-ho-saki or White Cape being made, another cluster of fishing- boats was noticed under sail, apparently trailing for fish. About them the water was observed broken and discolored, and when the steamers had reached within a mile of the spot, their engines were stopped, and the lead again thrown, when soundings were obtained COURSE, WINDS AND CURRENTS. 309 in thirty fathoms, coral bottom. The ships' course being changed from northeast by east to southeast, and running slowly and cautiously, they came suddenly on the eastern edge of the broken water into twenty- one fathoms, with what is called overfalls, and a bot- tom of coral as before. There seemed every reason to believe, from these indications, that there was a dan- gerons ledge lying directly in the way along the coast, at a distance from the land where such a danger would be hardly looked for. The Commodore would have anchored and examined this ledge had it not been for the near approach of night; and as for waiting until the next day, the necessity of being at Hakodadi on the 19th of May, made it advisable not to lose any time by delay. It is true, with good weather, there was every reason to expect that the voyage might be accomplished in a day or two before the time ap- pointed, but with the frequency of fogs about the Straits of Sangar, and the experience of the vexatious detentions caused by those annoyances, there could be no certainty in the calculation. During the day-time the course was kept along the coast, although at night the ships were hauled a little off. On the 15th of May, Cape Kurosaki came into sight, with its elevated peaks in the interior covered with snow. The atmosphere was fresh and invigorat- ing, the mean temperature of the air being 59° of Fahrenheit, and that of the water 55°. The water was perfectly smooth, with an oily aspect from the surface being covered with a substance which was supposed to be the excrement of whales, of which large numbers of various kinds, as well as of por- 310 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. poises, were seen. At daylight, on the 16th, the course was shaped at an angle approaching the coast, and although the land had been for awhile out of sight, it was now again made, and traced along until the ships reached the northeastern extremity of Nippon, called by the Japanese Sirija Saki. The southern and eastern coast of Japan from Cape Sirofama, as far as was ob- served, is not so high as that on the western side of the Gulf of Yedo. It is, however, of sufficient height to be observed, in tolerably clear weather, at a dis- tance of forty miles. On getting abreast of Cape Sirija Saki, the Strait of Sangar, which separates Nippon from Yesso, was full in view, with the high land of the latter island distinctly visible ahead. The course was now steered directly for Hakodadi, but on getting into the middle of the strait a current or tide was encountered, which probably accelerated the eastern one, until the two reached a combined velocity of six knots. This pow- erful current prevented the steamers from reaching port that night, and it was thought advisable to put the heads of the steamers seaward. This would not have been necessary if any reliance could have been placed upon the continuance of clear weather. The engines were so managed as to expend but little coal, and still to retain the position of the vessels; conse- quently, on taking the cross-bearings at daylight, it was found, notwithstanding the current, that the ships had not shifted their places a mile from where they had been when night set in. Scarcely, however, had the steamers stood again for their destined port, when a dense fog came on and ARRIVAL IN BAY OF HAKODADI. 311 obscured every object from sight, so that it was found necessary to head the steamers towards the east. The sun, however, approaching the zenith, cleared away the fog, and fortunately bearings were distinguished which served as a guide to the port. As the cape, called by the Japanese Surro-kubo, and which the Commodore named Cape Blunt, in honor of his friends. Edmund and George Blunt, of New York, was ap- proached, there could be discerned over the neck of land which connects the promontory of Treaty Point* with the interior, the three ships of the squad- ron which had been previously despatched, safely at anchor in the harbor of Hakodadi. At the approach of the steamers, in obedience to previous instructions of the Commodore, boats came off from the ships with officers prepared to pilot the Powhatan and Mississippi, which finally came to anchor at nine o'clock on the morning of the 17th of May. The spacious and beautiful bay of Hakodadi, which for accessibility and safety is one of the finest in the world, lies on the north side of the Strait of Sangar, which separates the Japanese islands of Nippon and Yesso, and about midway between Sirija-saki, the northeast point of the former and the city of Matsmai. The bay bears from the cape N.W. W. distant about forty-five miles, and is four miles wide at its entrance. and runs five miles into the land. As the steamers approached their anchorage, there was seen a large fleet of junks floating in the harbor, near the low isthmus which stretches out from the mainland, and terminates in a peninsular mountain *So called on the American charts. 312 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. some twelve hundred feet in height. At the base of this mountain lay the town of Hakodadi, with its houses and temples, extending along the shore, and distributed among the groves of trees, which shade the acclivity. The lofty mountains, with their sum- mits covered with snow, looked gloomy in the distance, but the harbor, populous with its many hundred junks, the expanse of the straits crossed and recrossed by the numerous vessels plying between the towns on the opposing coasts, and the cultivated slopes of the hills, with the rice and other grain ripening in the sun, gave a cheerful aspect to the scene. Great consternation was produced among the peo- ple of Hakodadi by the arrival of the American squadron in their waters. The inhabitants hurried out of the town with their backs and their horses loaded down with goods and valuables; and as soon as the steamers came to anchor, some of the Japanese officials pushed off and boarded the ships. They showed marks of great anxiety on their arrival, and asked with very evident concern, the purpose of the visit of the Americans. Upon being told that a treaty had been made, they expressed much surprise, and declared that they had been kept in utter igno- rance of the negotiations. The Commissioners had agreed to send a representative to meet the Commo- dore at Hakodadi, but no such personage had arrived. In the mean time the Commodore insisted upon the same privileges as had been reluctantly conceded to him at Simoda. After a long delay and a series of tedious daily negotiations, the Americans were allowed to visit the land, to have possession of several temples ALARM OF PEOPLE. 313 of resort on shore, and to obtain those articles and supplies they desired to purchase. The inhabitants. of Hakodadi were soon reassured, and, returning to the town, resumed their routine of daily occupation, and became gradually familiarized with the presence of the strangers. 14 CHAPTER XIV. HAKODADI* is situated in the straits of Sangar, at the south of the island of Yesso, of which it is the largest town, with the exception of Matsmai. It is a place of considerable commercial importance, and car- ries on a large trade with various ports in Japan and the interior of Yesso. Fleets of junks are constantly en- gaged in carrying dried and salted fish, prepared sea- weed, charcoal and deers' horns, the products of Hako- dadi and the neighboring country, and bringing back rice, sugar, tea, tobacco, silks, cloths, lacquered ware, cutlery, and whatever else there may be a market for in the town and in the interior. During the short stay of about two weeks of the American squadron, over a hundred junks sailed from Hakodadi for va- rious southern ports in Japan. The inhabitants are mostly engaged in occupations connected with the water, and are either merchants, sailors, or fishermen. The bay and harbor abound in excellent fish, in salmon, salmon-trout, flounders, herrings, and in clams, crabs, and muscles. The ships were always *Hakodadi is the Japanese for "Box Shop," but why the town was so called, it is impossible to conjecture. THE TOWN AND HOUSES. 315 sure of large draughts with the seines, and were thus never without a supply of excellent fish of all varie- ties. The fishermen were daily out in the bay with their nets; and groups of idlers, with their rods and lines, never failed to gather about the piers to pass the day in angling, as they squatted over the water and patiently waited for a bite. Hakodadi is large, containing several thousand houses, which extend in a main avenue for a mile or more along the seashore, with cross-streets which as- cend a short distance up the acclivity of the lofty promontory, at the base of which the town is built. This promontory is divided into three principal peaks, which reach a height from six hundred to a thousand feet. Their summits are bare, but often covered with snow; their upper slopes are scantily clothed with underwood and some scattered pines, while below, where the ground begins to rise from the level land, there is a rich profusion of verdant growth, with groves of wide-spreading cypresses, tall forest maples, and orchards of plum and peach trees. This abun- dant vegetation presents a pleasant contrast to the bolder and more barren aspect of the higher acclivi- ties and summits of the surrounding hills. The town thus appears to be nestling in repose under the cover. of the shade of the trees in the midst of a scene of rural beauty, while all around in the distance is the wild, bleak massiveness of nature. A low, sandy isthmus, scantily verdant here and there with a few patches of kitchen gardens, connects the peninsula upon which the houses are built to the main land. Coarse, hard rocks of trachyte, thrown up by volcanic i 316 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. agency, separate the alluvial sand from the mountain- ous region in the interior, and add to the wildness of the scene. The Japanese have quarried the rocks here and there; and various hewn surfaces, with cut blocks lying about, prove the art and busy industry of the people. These quarries supply them with stone for constructing their sea walls, jetties, dykes, foun- dations for their houses, and other building purposes. The houses of Hakodadi are similar in construc- tion to those of Simoda, but have one peculiarity which strikes the stranger at first sight. On the front of the gable of each building, which, like that of the Dutch houses, faces the street, there is always a wooden tub wrapped in straw and filled with water. By the side of the tub there is a broom, which is kept there in readiness, in case of fire, to sprinkle the roof with, and thus protect it from the sparks. It would appear, from the careful provision against conflagra- tions, that there was great anxiety on this score. Along the streets every where, in addition to the tubs on the tops of the houses, there are wooden cisterns conveniently placed in all parts of the city; and, moreover, the town is as well supplied with fire- engines as New York. These engines, though in ap- pearance something like our own, are deficient in the important part of the machine called the air-box, and consequently are spasmodic in their efforts, and do not eject a continuous stream of water. Alarums, made of thick pieces of wood, hung upon posts, which are struck on the breaking out of a fire, are found at every corner, and watchmen, stationed in sentry- boxes, are always on the alert, by day and night. THE SILENCE OF THE CITY. 317 The streets of Hakodadi, like those of most Japa- nese towns, are subdivided into various wards by means of picket-gates, which cross from side to side, and are closed after dark. These several wards are so many separate communities governed by an alder- man, who is called, in the Japanese language, an Ot- tona. This official is responsible for the condition of that part of the city under his administration, and each Ottona is held answerable for the bad conduct of his coadjutors-an extent of responsibility which would be quite insupportable in the corrupt munici- pal governments of our Christian country. The sys- tem apparently works well, for Hakodadi is perfectly well-ordered, being always quiet, clean, and whole- some. The stillness of the town was very impressive to those accustomed to the din and turmoil of a city like New York, for example. There was none of the hum and apparent confusion of a place in the busy excitement of daily business and pleasure. Hako- dadi, though evidently carrying on a large trade— for the harbor, with its numerous junks and fishing boats, presented a stirring scene-showed no outward marks of activity in the streets. There are no public market-places, and all business is carried on silently within the stores and shops. It is true, long trains of packhorses, loaded down with goods, occasionally trot through the streets, but there are no wheeled carriages or carts to disturb the general silence. The kago, which is a square box, to the contracted capacity of which the suppleness of a Japanese back or knee can alone accommodate itself, is the only 318 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. kind of carriage used. This is carried by means of a pole, like that of a sedan-chair, borne on the shoulders of two men, and is the most uncomfortable kind of con- veyance conceivable. The kago is occasionally made very ornamental when belonging to the wealthier and higher classes. The greater dignitaries generally travel on horseback, and their animals are often adorned with rich trappings. The Japanese horse is of small breed, but of a compact form, with delicate tendinous limbs, and is active, spirited, and of good bottom. The roads are generally good, many of them being broad and paved, while others are mere bridle paths. The roadsides are, by the by, provided with the convenience of cabinets d'aisance. The buildings in Hakodadi are mostly of one story, with attics of varying height, and are generally built of pine boards. The Japanese wood work is never painted, although in the interior of the houses it is oc- casionally varnished or oiled. The houses have, con- sequently, a mean, thriftless look, and are but poorly protected against the effects of the weather. In the wintry, moist climate of Hakodadi, the unpainted pine boards soon mould and rot, so that the town has a more rusty, ruined appearance than its age should indicate. The interior of the houses is plain and simple in arrangement, but always scrupulously neat and clean. The furniture is exceedingly scanty. The floors are spread with mats of a uniform size of three feet by six, prescribed by law. These are made of rice-straw, and are so neatly put together that the apartments seem to be carpeted by a single uniform covering. As the ordinary practice of the Japanese is to kneel HOW THEY EAT AND SLEEP. 319 and crouch, and not sit, they have little occasion for seats or chairs, yet benches or divans, and a kind of camp-stool are sometimes seen. The common people generally crouch down in a sitting posture, while kneeling is affected by the would-be genteel. There are no beds, but a Japanese at night re- clines upon the mat-spread floor, covers himself with an additional mat, and props up his head with a wooden block. There are no tables, but small lac- quered stands of about a foot in height are used in- stead. One of these is placed at meals before each Japanese Cushion. person, and he takes his tea, sips his sakee, or eats his soup from it, as he crouches on the floor. The household utensils are few and simple, consisting of a supply of wooden chop-sticks, an occasional earthen spoon, a few china bowls, some lacquered cups, and the ubiquitous tea-kettle. The kettle is of earthen ware, or of bronze, and sometimes, but rarely, of sil- ver, and is always kept boiling over the charcoal fire, which burns in the centre of the apartment, where 320 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. square holes, lined with tiles and filled with sand, are made for the purpose. The tea is a universal article of consumption, and is infused, as in China, in each cup as it is wanted, and drank without sugar. The native sakee, which is a potent liquor, not unlike whiskey, divides with the beverage "that cheers but not inebriates" the honors of a general appreciation. On the arrival of a guest, he is expected to accept of either tea or sakee, or of both. The chief meal of the day consists mostly of three dishes-hot stewed fish, of the consistency of a thick soup; cold fish, garnished with grated radish; and a heterogeneous compound, where hard- boiled eggs, cut in halves, are found mixed with fish, shrimps, and dried sea-weed. These are served up in THE BETTER HOUSES. 321 covered bowls, and are always accompanied by two cups, one containing soy, in which the contents of each dish are dipped before being eaten; and the other, sakee, which is used universally by all classes. The cooking is simple, and ordinarily performed over the charcoal fire in the sitting apartment, though in the more imposing establishments there are kitchens. in the rear of the house for the purpose. Some of the wealthier people have suburban vil- las on the outskirts of the town. These are surround- ed with walled gardens, which are laid out in the Chinese style, with fish-ponds, containing gold fish, miniature bridges, pagoda-like summer houses, and private chapels or shrines. Dwarf fruit-bearing and shade trees, and beds of gayly variegated flowers, camellias, chrysanthemums, and other choice varieties, adorn these retreats of the well-to-do Japanese citizen. The same simplicity of construction and scantiness of furniture generally characterize these as the more humble dwellings. There is greater spaciousness, however, in the apartments, and sometimes more re- gard to ornament. The cornices of the rooms occa- sionally show carvings of wood which would have done credit to Grinling Gibbons, and the oiled-paper panels are not seldom adorned with paintings of birds, among which the sacred crane is a favorite subject, and with landscapes much superior to the gaudy fres- coes of our Fifth Avenue palaces, and not surpassed by many of the pictures which hang from their showy walls. The various household utensils, too, in the better houses, are often of handsome pattern and skilful workmanship. The lacquered stands upon 14* 322 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. t ANGLAIS. which food is served are gracefully carved, and very highly polished with the famous Japanese lacquer ; the lanterns, which are of paper, are sometimes adorned with pictures, and supported upon well exe- cuted bronzed branches; and the china tea-pots and cups are beautifully painted and enriched with gilt. There are four large Buddhist temples in Hako- dadi, one of which, called the Zhiogen-zhi, or the country's protector, is a good specimen of Japanese architecture. It was built by the townspeople about twenty years since, and is kept in excellent repair. The tiled roof rises fully sixty feet from the ground, and is supported by an intricate arrangement of gird- ers, posts, and tie-beams, resting upon large lacquered ZHIOGEN-ZHI. 323 pillars. This temple is one of the most conspicuous objects seen when entering the harbor. The principal apartment in the interior is elaborately carved and richly gilded. The carving and sculpture about the altar, the niches, and cornices, are of wood and brass, and show very skilful workmanship. The designs are dragons, phoenixes, cranes, tortoises, and other subjects associated with the religious worship of Buddha. The main floor is elevated six feet above the ground, and covered as usual with thick mats. There are three separate shrines, each containing an · image, the one in the nave being the largest and most highly adorned. A sort of architrave descends be- tween the pillars, so contrived that, with the aid of 324 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. folding screens, the shrines may be readily partitioned off. There are six priests attached to the establishment, and their quarters, and those which are provided for visitors, are models of neatness and cleanliness. The temples in Japan, as in China, are often used for places of concourse or entertainment, and on such oc- casions the altars and shrines are covered or removed, which so changes the aspect of the interior that no one would suspect that he was in a house of worship. In the enclosure before the Zhiogen-zhi, there is a grove of large spreading cypresses, in the shade of which there are several outer buildings, and a shed which covers six small stone images of deities. On either side of the avenue which leads to the temple there are pairs of stone candelabra, and near by the statue of a goddess with a child in her arms. A copper nimbus or glory surrounds the heads of all these idols, and reminds the Christian visitor of what he may have seen in some churches of his own country. Each of these temples has its adjoining grave-yard, filled with tombs and monuments characteristic of the Japanese people and their religious belief. There was a curious contrivance in one of the burial-places, consisting of a tall post, in which an iron wheel was inserted. The post was placed upright, and being square, presented four surfaces, on each of which was one or two of the following inscriptions or prayers: "The great round mirror of knowledge says, 'wise men and fools are embarked in the same boat;' whether prospered or afflicted, both are rowing over the deep lake; the gay sails lightly hang to catch THE PRAYING MACHINE. 325 the autumnal breeze; then away they straight enter the lustrous clouds, and become partakers of heaven's knowledge." "The believing man, Hanyo Shenkaman, who no longer grows old.” "The believing woman, once called Yuenning: Happy was the day she left." "Multitudes fill the graves." "To enable to enter the abodes of the perfect, and to sympathise fully with the men of the world, be- longs to Buddha. It is only by this one vehicle, the coffin, we can enter Hades. There is naught like Buddha; nothing at all." "We of the human race with hearts, minds, and understandings, when we read the volumes of Buddha, enjoy great advantages." "He whose prescience detects knowledge, says: as the floating grass is blown by the gentle breeze, or the glancing ripples of autumn disappear when the sun goes down, or as the ship returns home to her old shore, so is life: it is a smoke, a morning tide." "Buddha himself earnestly desires to hear the name of this person (who is buried), and wishes he may go to life.” "He who has left humanity is now perfected by Buddha's name, as the withered moss is by the dew." "The canon of Buddha says, all who reach the blissful land will become so that they cannot be made to transmigrate (or change for the worse)." The square post upon which these inscriptions were cut, was nearly eight feet in length, and near the centre, at a convenient height to be reached by 326 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. the hand, was affixed, vertically, a wheel, which moved readily on an axle that passed through the post. Two small iron rings were strung upon each of the three spokes of the wheel. Every person who twirled this instrument in passing was supposed to obtain credit in heaven for one or more prayers on the post, the number being graduated according to the vigor of the performer's devotion, and the num- ber of revolutions effected. The jingle of the small iron rings was believed to secure the attention of the deity to the invocation of the devotional, and the greater the noise, the more certain of its being lis tened to. This praying by wheel and axle would seem to be the very perfection of a ceremonious religion, as it reduces it to a system of mechanical laws, which, provided the apparatus is kept in order, a result easily obtained by a little oil, moderate use, and occasional repairs, can be readily executed with the least possi- ble expenditure of human labor, and with all that economy of time and thought which seems the great purpose of our material and mechanical age. Huc, in his interesting account of his travels in Thibet, speaks of an improvement on the machine we have described, where the apparatus was turned by water power, and very appropriately styles it a prayer mill. In the course of the progress of the Japanese in the mechanical arts, this, with their usual readiness in adopting new improvements, will no doubt be intro- duced, or perhaps the more effective power of steam will be applied to their praying machines, and with the introduction of steamboats and railroads may commence an era of locomotive devotion. أن MECHANICAL DEVOTION. 327 Praying Machine, 328 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. There are three large Mia, or Sintoo temples in Hakodadi, called respectively the Sheumei, the Ha- chiman, and the Penten, dedicated to national deified heroes and gods. Gongs, drums, rattles, and other noisy musical instruments, bear an important part in the worship, and some of these are no less remarkable for the beauty of their workmanship than for the vile- ness of the music they produce. At the door of each temple there is a straw rope connected with a bell and a drum, and the former is pulled and the latter beaten on the arrival of a devotee, in order to awaken the deity to the consciousness of the presence of a Gongs and Musical Instruments for Worship. worshipper. The Sintoo temples are not in so flour- ishing a condition as their competitors, the Buddhist temples, which have gained the ascendency, and are fast absorbing the whole devotional interests of the · ROADSIDE IDOLS. 329 Japanese people. The former are generally got up on a cheaper scale, and are much less resorted to. They have no burying-grounds attached, and are not surrounded by any defined enclosure. There are, however, several gateways, with ornaments sculp- tured on stone spanning the approach, but the area which surrounds the temples is open, and the public road passes through it. A curator with his family, whose duty it is to keep the idols polished up and the sacred grounds in a tidy condition, generally resides on or near the premises. Upon the summits and acclivities of the hills in the neighborhood of Hakodadi, and in niches and small shrines under shadow of groves of cypress and trees by the wayside, are frequent stone statues of Buddha, venerable with age and overgrown with moss, about four feet high, elevated upon small pedes- tals, and the innumerable offerings of copper cash, rags, flowers, and written papers, strewn before them, prove the large number of devotees and the attention of the people to their devotional duties. The Japa- nese resort frequently to these roadside deities, and the higher they are perched, and the more inaccessible their approach, the greater is esteemed the merit in invoking them. These idols are supposed to have great power in warding off the storms or disasters to which mariners on that inhospitable coast are exposed, and most of the offerings are made with a view to propitiate Buddha and his associate deities in the event of an approaching danger. In addition to the statues, there are distributed along the roads and pathways frequent stone slabs with inscriptions and 330 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. gallows-shaped gateways, fancifully carved and orna- mented. These are never passed by the pious Japa- nese without a genuflexion and the utterance of a pass- ing prayer. There is little appearance of military defence about Hakodadi, though its position would seem to offer ad- vantages for rendering it almost impregnable. Be- yond the town, however, in an easterly direction, there are two earthen forts dug out of the ground, and intended, apparently, to guard the entrance to the harbor. Stakes or palisades are driven in along the cuttings to prevent the earth from caving, and to aid in the defence. Two wooden buildings stand near by, which are connected with magazines under- neath the excavated area of the forts. Within these latter is a pavement of stone and embrasures of four feet in width, opening in the eastern embankment looking seaward, and made apparently for only two guns. On the beach at the eastern end of the main street, there is a building with a broad enclosure, which seems to be intended for purposes of fortifica- tion, although from the absence of cannon and other warlike appointments, it may be only used for a pa- rade ground. There are better specimens of military defence in Japan than those rude constructions, as, for example, at Uraga, where several stone forts ex- ist, built according to more advanced principles of art, although there are probably none in the whole country which could withstand a slight cannonading from European or American ships of war, or even an attack from a few well-armed boats. The country about Hakodådi, though picturesque JAPANESE VESSELS AND NAVIGATION. 331 to the view, did not present such attractions for the pedestrian as that in the neighborhood of Simoda. The environs are comparatively rude and uncultivated, and the land is so broken by the hills and mountain- ous elevations, that the roads are necessarily steep, irregular, and toilsome to the traveller. The isolated rock at the base, and on the side of which the town is built, is steep and rough, but is ascended by a winding path to the top. The summit commands a fine view of the harbor, and was often scaled by the officers of the expedition, where they were remind- ed of the high advance in art of the country by find- ing an observatory, or look-out for vessels, supplied with a telescope of Japanese manufacture, arranged with glasses like our own, inserted in a tube of bamboo. In a large town like Hakodadi, there are, of course, many engaged in the mechanical arts. The building of junks is carried on extensively in yards bordering the harbor. These vessels are seldom more than a hundred tons in burden, and are constructed very much like the Chinese junks. Canvas is, however, used instead of the bamboo, as in China, for the sails. The Japanese are timid navigators, and never lose sight of the land, if possible, in their various voyages. Although, from the insular character of their country, they are naturally a maritime people, the government -so resolute in its isolated policy-has forbidden, for hundreds of years, all direct communication with for- eign countries, under the penalty of death. The construction of the junks is regulated by law as to size and form, so that, with their small tonnage and 332 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. · open sterns, they are unfit to encounter the storms of the sea, and the people are fearful of venturing, in their ill-constructed vessels, beyond the limits pre- scribed by the government. The Japanese have charts, but being without meri- dian or scale, and having no record of soundings, they are of no use except in their own timid navigation. The largest junks in Japan do not draw more than eight feet of water, and they run from port to port, taking care to seek shelter in case of the least threat- ening of a gale. Every harbor, however small, is furnished with conveniences for securing the Japanese craft, holes being artificially made through the angles of the rocks for passing the cables, and where this is not practicable, upright pillars or posts are hewn or mortised in the stone, and all chafings of the moorings provided against by a careful rounding and smoothing of the neighboring projection or detached parts. The Japanese are familiar with the working of the metals. Their jewellers and silversmiths are expert workmen, and the specimens of their manufacture are often tasteful in design and of excellent workman- ship. Of the coarser metals copper is much used, and, as with us, for sheathing and bolting their ves- sels, and for the manufacture of various cooking and other household utensils. Iron is less frequently em- ployed, and with great economy. It is seldom that their implements are entirely composed of this metal, it being usual to make them of wood, and merely tip them with iron. The Japanese understand well the carbonizing of iron, and the temper of much of their' steel is good, as was proved by the polish and sharp- CABINET-WARE. 333 ness of their sword-blades. The cutlery, however, in common use at Hakodadi was of an inferior kind, and a barber of one of the ships pronounced a razor pur- chased in the town as abominably bad, neither cut- ting nor capable of being made to cut. The black- smiths work, as with us, with a charcoal fire and a bellows. The latter however, is peculiarly made, 2 Blacksmith's Bellows, being a box with a piston working horizontally, and two holes at the side for the issue of the blast. Coop- ering is an important trade at Hakodadi, where im- mense quantities of fish are salted and packed for ex- portation in barrels. These are made of staves, and hooped as with us, but their form is peculiar, being somewhat conical in shape. The neatness of finish of the woodwork of the houses proves the carpenters skilful workmen, and the cabinet-ware, often inlaid, richly adorned, and covered with the exquisite lacquer polish, is unsur- passed by the finest marqueterie of Paris. Weaving and the manufacture of coarse cotton clothing are carried on in almost all the houses by the women, who use looms constructed very much like those fa- miliar to our own people 334 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. ROBÉR IS. SE. Cabinet-Ware. Nothing was seen of the higher and more compli- cated branches of industrial art in operation, al- though the shops were supplied with fabrics which proved no little skill and perfection in various manu- factures. The people seemed, however, to be unac- quainted with woollen tissues, and exhibited great curiosity in examining the cloth dresses of the Amer- icans. Their cottons are occasionally printed with colors, forming neat calico patterns, but their tints readily fade, and will not bear washing. The width of the calico pieces, like that of the silks and crapes, is uniformly eighteen inches. This is not suited to an American or European market. Their silks are rich and heavy, and somewhat like our brocade in texture, but stouter and less flexible. They are often of very elaborate figured patterns, interwoven with golden threads, and نانا FINE ARTS. 335 exceedingly beautiful. These are mostly used for the state robes of the high officials and dignitaries of the land. A very high price was generally demanded for these silks, though, in one instance, one of the officers, from some cause or other, purchased a piece. at Hakodadi at thirteen cents per yard. The various colored crapes are some of them very flimsy, and are an essential part of Japanese upholstery, being often seen as coverings to divans or seats, and hangings to apartments. In the higher arts the Japanese deserve a rank much beyond any Oriental nation. The carvings in wood with which many of the better houses and most of the temples are adorned, show an exact knowledge of form, particularly of that of familiar objects of na- ture, such as birds, fish, and flowers, and a skill of hand in the cutting almost perfect. In the Japanese paintings and drawings there is the freedom that be- longs to great manual dexterity, and a correctness of outline which proves a close observation of nature. Some specimens of the illustrated books brought to this country by the Commodore, establish the fact hitherto denied, that the Japanese, unlike the Chi- nese, are familiar with the principles of perspective. These works also show, in their drawings of the hu- man figure and of the horse, a well-directed study of the anatomy of the form in its external developments. The constant recurrence on the margin of the pages of these Japanese books of what is usually called by architects "the Greek fret or border," is certainly curious. We are surprised by a classic form that we would not have expected to find an es- 336 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. tablished feature in Oriental art. There are also in the Japanese ornamentation some curious coincidences with what we term Gothic art, such as the trefoil and other forms. With the exception of a temple or a gateway here and there, which, in comparison with the surrounding low houses appeared somewhat imposing, there were no buildings seen which impressed the Americans with a high idea of Japanese architecture. The most creditable specimens of this branch of art are found in some of the stone causeways and bridges, which are often built upon single bold Roman arches, and in design and masonry are equal to the most scientific and artistic structures any where. The Japanese are great readers, and popular ro- mances issue from their presses with the frequency of cheap novels with us. Their books are printed by means of wooden blocks, and it is said that they have separate type of the same material; while printing in colors, which is an art just beginning with us, has been long practised in Japan. Their paper is made of the bark of the mulberry and of other woods, and presents a good surface for the reception of the type, but is of so thin a texture that the printing is confined to one side only. The leaf of each book is according- ly double, with two blank surfaces enclosed within. A general system of public instruction extends its in- fluence throughout the empire, and the commonest people can read and write. The Japanese are hard workers, but they have occasional holidays, and vary the evenings and hours of leisure with games and amusements. They have RELIGION AND NO RELIGION. * 337 a game called Sho-ho-ye, which corresponds with our chess, and another like our cards, played with flat pieces of horn, ivory, or bone. These are about an inch and two-thirds long and little more than an inch wide. There are forty-nine pieces, marked by three different colors, blue, red, and white, to indicate the suites, and also by lines and dots to signify the value of the piece. The games played with these are numerous, and are generally played for money. The Japanese shuffle and cut them precisely as is done with us, sometimes by lifting off a part of the pack, and at others expressing satisfaction with them as they are, by tapping the knuckle on the top of the heap. Another common game is played with small black and white stones, and seems to be somewhat of the, character of loto, so much played in the gardens and estaminets of Paris and Hamburgh, frequented by the lower classes. It was a cheerful reminder of one's childhood, and another bond of sympathy between the various branches of the human race, however re- motely separated from each other, to find the little shaven-pated lads playing ball in the streets of Hako- dadi, and jackstraws within the domestic circle at home. The prevailing religions of the Japanese are Budd- hism and Sintooism. The former, however, is the fa- vorite form of worship, and all its ceremonies are carefully observed. The higher classes of the Japanese are supposed to be imbued with a wide philosophical skepticism, and to regard the religion of their country merely as * See Appendix. 15 338 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. ་་,་་ a state institution. They are tolerant of all forms of worship but that of the Christian, which, since the interference of the Portuguese Jesuit missionaries, two hundred and fifty years ago, with the policy of the government, has been strictly excluded from Ja- pan. The Americans, however, regularly performed the Christian worship on board their ships, while floating within Japanese waters, and several of the sailors who died were buried in Japan with the usual American Burial Place. ROBERTS S ceremonies of our religion. The authorities, in fact, appropriated, both at Simoda and Hakodadi, places of interment for the American Christians. ARRIVAL OF JAPANESE FUNCTIONARY. 339 The Commodore awaited more than two weeks the arrival of the expected representative of the Japa- nese Commissioners, who was to meet him at Hako- dadi. After frequent conferences with the local authorities and the agent of the Prince of Matsmai, the Commodore, finding that no final arrangements could be made in regard to the limits and other de- tails regulating the opening of Hakodadi to Ameri- can intercourse, found it necessary to defer all further consideration of the subject until his return to Simoda. Just, however, as the squadron was about to sail, a Japanese functionary arrived from the court at Yedo, but as he did not seem to be fully authorized to act, his visit was received and considered as one purely of ceremony. CHAPTER XV. BEFORE parting with the Japanese officials at Ha- kodadi, the Commodore took occasion, while express- ing his gratification at the general kindness and cour- tesy of the authorities and people, to remark, that the inhabitants still seemed suspicious of the Americans, as they continued to shut their houses and remove the women from observation. To this the deputies re- turned a written reply, which, as it presents a docu- ment singularly characteristic of the gentle, concilia- tory tone of the Japanese, and of their ingenuity in self-justification, is given at length: "To hear from the Commodore that, since his arrival in Hakodadi, he has been much pleased with his intercourse and communications with the local authorities, is truly a great gratification to us. With regard to going through the streets, and seeing shops and houses shut, with neither women nor children in the ways, let it be here observed, that at Yoku-hama this very matter was plainly spoken of by Moryama, the interpreter, at that place. The customs of our country are unlike yours, and the people have been unused to see people from foreign lands; and though A JAPANESE DOCUMENT. 341 the authorities did what they could to pacify them, and teach them better, they still were disinclined to believe, and many absconded or hid themselves. If the Commodore will recall to mind the day when he took a ramble to Yoku-hama, in which some of us accompanied him, he will recollect that in the villages and houses we hardly saw one woman during the whole walk. If he saw more of them at Simoda, as he went about, it was because there the people were gradually accustomed to the Americans, and their fears had been allayed, so that they felt no dread. "On these remote frontiers, many miles from Yedo, the usages of the people are so fixed that they are not easily influenced and altered; but, pray, how can the inhabitants here think of regarding Americans with inimical feelings? Even when they see their own officers, with the persons of whom they are not familiar, they also run aside, and, as from fear, seek to escape us. This is the custom of our country that officers should accompany visitors about-a custom not to be so soon changed. Still, the disposition of the men here is ingenuous, brave, upright, and good, and that of the women retiring and modest, not gazing at men as if without bashfulness. Such characteristics and such usages must be considered as estimable, and we think that you also will not dislike them. "In general, when upright, cordial propriety marks intercourse, then peace, good feeling, and har- mony are real between the parties; but if harshness, violence, and grasping characterize it, then hate and distrust with collision arise, and love will not be found to bring the hearts of the people together. This is a 342 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN rule of heaven, concerning which no one can have any doubt." After a farewell visit of ceremony on shore, and an interchange of courtesies and presents (among which was a block of granite for the Washington monument), the Powhatan and Mississippi, which were the only vessels of the squadron left, took their departure for Simoda on the 3d of June, 1854. The steamers, however, had hardly got under way at early sunrise, when they were obliged to anchor again at the mouth of the bay, in consequence of a dense fog. As the day advanced the fog was dissipated, and the two steamers, weighing again, got clear of the straits before night. On the fifth day out, the smoke of the volcano of Oho-sima was discovered in the distance, and the land was soon distinctly made; but the weather becoming very thick from the rain and mist, it was found neces- sary to put the ships' heads off shore, and continue under low steam during the night. The fog contin- uing while the ships were among the islands in the Gulf of Yedo, caused a delay of full twenty-four hours, and they consequently did not arrive at Si- moda until the 7th of June, which, however, was one day before the time appointed for a meeting of the Commodore with the commissioners. Nothing of especial interest occurred during the passage. A very large number of whales were observed, and the strong eastward current was remarked as before. At noon, the Powhatan, passing Vandalia bluff at the entrance of Simoda harbor, ran in and came to anchor in her former berth, followed by her consort 7 LANDING AT SIMODA. 343 the Mississippi. The storeship Supply was found at anchor in the harbor. Shortly after anchoring, some of the Japanese officers came on board the flag-ship, and cordially welcoming the Commodore on his re- turn to Simoda, informed him that the commissioners had arrived from Yedo with an addition of two to their number. As the Commodore was very desirous of completing his business with those functionaries, who, judging from past experience, would probably be somewhat slow in all their movements, he sent his flag-lieutenant on shore to propose an immediate in- terview. It was ascertained by this officer that the commissioners were out of town, but very soon after a message arrived, to the effect that they would re- turn at once, and be in readiness to meet the Commo- dore the next day at noon. The Commodore landed with a suitable escort on the next day, and was received at the temple by the commissioners, with the usual formal compliments. The two new members of the commission were pre- sented by their names and titles as Tzudsuki, Suraga- no-kami, (prince of Suraga,) and Take-no-uchisetaro, comptroller of the revenues: the chief commissioner then stated that Simoda had been made an imperial city, and that Izawa, Prince of Mimasaki, and Tzud- suki had been appointed its governors, with Kura- kawa-kahei and Ise-sin-toheiro as lieutenant-gover- nors. In consequence of this new organization, the commissioners declared that it would be necessary to establish certain boundaries to the city by means of walls and gates, in order to define the limits of the imperial jurisdiction; and asked whether the Commo- 344 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. dore would object to the erection of such, with the understanding that the Americans should have the privilege of going where and when they pleased within them, and beyond them, on asking permission, which permission would always readily be granted. The Commodore replied that he had no desire to in- terfere with any plans of the government, provided they did not violate the stipulations of the treaty ; and, reminding them that the Americans had a per- fect right, guaranteed to them by that document, of moving unmolested within the limits of seven li or ri, said that, of course, he would leave what was beyond that distance to be governed by their own regula- tions.* It was then mutually agreed that three Ame- rican officers should accompany the Japanese officers appointed to affix the boundaries, and regulate the erection of the walls and gates at Simoda. The Com- modore, however, positively refused to consent that Americans should ask any permission of the Japanese officers, or of any one else, to go anywhere within the limits of the seven ri fixed by the treaty, they, of course, conducting themselves properly and peaceably. The great discussion, however, was concerning the boundaries within which our countrymen might go at Hakodadi. These had not yet been settled at all. The Japanese wished to confine the Americans within the city itself; but as the Commodore protested most 1000 *A ri is equal to 2 453 English statute miles; 6 feet is equal to 1 ken; 60 kens make 1 choo; 36 choos make 1 ri. The fans of the Japanese are of uniform size, six of them making five English feet. They are used as measures, recognized by the laws. JAPANESE COAL. 345 strongly against this, the subject was postponed for future consideration. Another conference took place on the succeeding day, but without any definite result in regard to the limits at Hakodadi, although the question was dis- cussed for several hours. An attempt was made by the commissioners to obtain the consent of the Com- modore to a regulation prohibiting the Americans from remaining on shore after sunset, which was posi- tively refused. Two (the newly appointed commis- sioners) had been chosen expressly to settle the ques- tion in regard to the comparative value of the Ja- panese and United States currencies, and Pursers Speiden and Eldridge were selected by the Commo- dore to confer with them on that subject. An im- portant result ensued, embodied in an interesting and valuable report made by those gentlemen to the Com- modore. After a succession of daily conferences, which con- tinued from the 8th to the 17th of June, a mutual agreement* was finally adjusted on the latter day, in regard to the various disputed points of detail not specified in the treaty. • The Japanese authorities had, in accordance with their agreement, supplied the steamers at Simoda with some of their native coal. It had been brought from the mines, at considerable trouble and expense, in hampers made of rice-straw. Notwithstanding the country is said to produce large quantities of this mineral, and the people are reported to have been long familiar with its uses, the coal they supplied ap- * See Appendix. 15* 346 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. peared to be surface coal, and to have been obtained from mines which had not been opened thoroughly and worked. On being tried on board the steamers, the engineers reported that it was of a quality so in- ferior that they were unable to keep up steam with it. Whether the shrewd Japanese supplied an infe- rior quality to deceive their visitors, or whether from ignorance of the article and want of mining skill they innocently brought that which was inferior, cannot be certainly decided; but as good coal certainly exists in Japan, and as the natives not only use it, but, ac- cording to Von Siebold, know very well how to mine it, the probabilities are that they purposely furnished the poorest samples. When the Preble was at Na- gasaki, and they saw the armorer on board at work at his forge, they pretended that they did not know what coal was, and actually took a piece on shore as a curiosity, expressing, with well feigned astonish- ment, their surprise at seeing a "stone" that would burn. The coal that was obtained was charged at the enormous rate of about $28 per ton; but the Ja- panese stated that the price would be probably much reduced as the demand for it increased, and their fa- cilities for obtaining it improved. The Commodore now prepared for his final de- parture, and accordingly was desirous of settling the accounts of the ships with the local authorities. Pro- per officers were accordingly sent on shore to receive from the governor a statement, with the prices of the various articles with which the squadron had been furnished. Among other accounts was a bill for spars, which SHARP DEALING. 347 had been ordered previous to leaving for Hakodadi; but upon investigation it was found that, although charged, they had not yet been prepared or delivered, and that even the trees from which they were to be made had not yet been cut down. The bazaar had also been opened for several days, and was supplied with the various articles of Japanese manufacture which the Americans desired to purchase and take home as memorials of the expedition. The prices charged, however, were so exorbitant that the Com- modore was obliged to protest against the conduct of the authorities in this respect, and to rebuke them for the neglect, not to call it by a harsher term, in not having the spars ready, although they had been charged for as if furnished. The protest and complaints of the Commodore having been laid before the governor, Prince Agawa, that functionary sent Moryama Yenoske, the inter- preter, on board the flag-ship, with a respectful re- joinder, to the effect that the prices of articles offered for sale in the bazaar had been arranged at Yedo, and that they were not above the usual market valuation. It was then explained by the flag-lieutenant that, al- though the prices in Chinese "cash" might not ap- pear exorbitant to the Japanese, yet that they were really so to the Americans, who were obliged to pay in dollars at a depreciation much below their value. Moryama Yenoske explained the affair of the spars, by declaring that he was responsible for what he was pleased to term the error, as he supposed that all the Commodore had asked for was the cost of spars, and did not understand that an order had been given for a supply of them. 348 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. Subsequently, the Commodore and some of his officers went on shore and partook of a handsome col- lation, at the earnest solicitation of the commissioners, who, on the occasion, made an ample apology for the various errors and misunderstandings which had in- terrupted the friendly intercourse between the Ame- ricans and the authorities. The Commodore ex- plained that it was a principle he had been contend- ing for, and not the comparatively unimportant con- sideration of a few hundred dollars, more or less, as his government had placed ample means in his hands, and he was disposed to pay liberally for all he bought; but neither the United States nor he were at all will- ing to be imposed upon. Moryama Yenoske, who was always the most active of all the officials, and was now the chief spokesman, said that the Ameri- cans might purchase any articles they pleased at their own valuation. This offer was of course rejected: and Yenoske then assumed, in behalf of himself and his fellow-interpreter Tatsnoske, the whole blame, not only in regard to the spars, but the exorbitant prices and all the other wrongs which had given rise to com- plaint. Indeed, these two worthy gentlemen seemed to be convenient mediums through which their supe- riors might render a vicarious expiation for their offences. They were ever ready to shoulder all the responsibility for anything wrong. Yenoske, how- ever, was very civilly told that although the Commo- dore could appreciate the self-sacrificing devotion with which he shouldered all the blame, yet that it was not a victim that was sought, but merely a cor- rection of certain evil practices which, if not checked JAPANESE DOGS. 349 in the beginning, might lead to disaffection and serious quarrel. A perfect reconciliation then ensued, which was appropriately sealed by a present from the commis- sioners of a block of stone for the Washington monu- ment, which was to be carried to the United States as a tribute from Japan to the memory of the great father of our republic. Nothing afterwards occurred to interrupt friendly relations, and frequent inter- course, which grew more and more intimate as the day of departure approached, took place with all classes on shore. Handsome presents were ex- changed, and some choice articles of Japanese manu- facture were received from the authorities as gifts for the President and for the officers of the ships. Among the gifts were three Japanese dogs, sent to the Presi- dent. These were of the small spaniel breed, very highly esteemed in Japan, and purchasable only at a very large price. The Commodore succeeded in bringing them to the United States, and they now thrive at Washington. The Commodore obtained two for himself, one only of which reached the United States. A few days previous to the departure of the Com- modore, Moryama Yenoske, in company with several other officials, came on board the Powhatan to re- quest that the Japanese "Sam Patch" should be al- lowed to remain in Japan. They were told that the Commodore had no objection whatever to the man's remaining, if he wished; but that it must be by his own free will, and that the commissioners must give a written pledge that the man should not, in any way, 350 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. Yedo and Simoda dogs presented to Commodore M. C. Perry by the Japanese Commissioners. be punished for his absence from Japan. Moreover, as he had suffered shipwreck, and had been thrown, by God's providence, on American protection, and had entered on board an American ship by his own choice, he was entitled to all the protection and secu- rity of an American citizen; consequently the Com- modore could allow of no coercion being resorted to to make the man remain in Japan. The Japanese officials ridiculed the idea of his suffering any harm or hurt by his remaining in Japan, and said that the commissioners would cheerfully give any guarantee required that he should in no way be molested, but be allowed at once to return to his friends, who were SAM PATCH'S PROSPECTS. 351 very anxious to see him. Sam was now called up, but all the eloquence and persuasiveness of the Ja- panese were insufficient to induce him to leave the ship. Sam had taken his place as one of the crew, and had won the good will of his shipmates generally by his good nature. All pitied his misfortunes, and one of the marines named Goble, a religious man, had taken a special interest in him; finding in his docility and intelligence promise of good fruit from a properly directed religious training, Goble had begun with him a system of instruction which he hoped would not only make the Japanese a fair English scholar, but a faithful Christian. Sam came to the United States in the Mississippi, and accompanied his benevolent ship- mate and devoted teacher to his home in the interior of New York, where Goble has property. At the last accounts they were living there together, and it is not unreasonable to hope that Sam, with the edu- cation of his faithful American friend, may be an in- strument, in the event of his return to Japan, under a further development of our relations with that Em- pire, of aiding in the introduction of a higher and better civilization into his own country. It will be recollected that, of the several Japanese who had been picked up on the coast of California and taken to Shanghai, with a view of restoring them to their own country, Sam Patch was the only one who accompanied the expedition to Japan. The rest were all afraid to go, and Sam went with fear and trem- bling. On the return of the Mississippi to China, on her way home, another of the Japanese expressed a 352 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. wish to visit the United States, and was gratified in his desire. His Japanese name is something like Dans-Kevitch; but the sailors, with their usual fond- ness for christening those adopted into their roving family, soon called him Dan-Ketch. Dan is under the protection of the Commodore, and evinces great intelligence, with an eager desire for knowledge. Should he ever return to Japan, as at present he pur- poses, after learning more about us, he will doubtless carry home with him no small amount of information about our country. The Commodore now transferred his broad pen- nant from the Powhatan back to the Mississippi, and the two steamers got under way and moved down to the outer roads of Simoda, where they anchored pre- paratory to their final departure. Moryama Yenoske, in company with some of the other officials, paid a farewell visit to the Commodore on that day, bring- ing with him the closing accounts of the ships, and some specimens of natural history as presents. A handsome entertainment was spread before the visi- tors in the cabin, and in the course of the friendly conversation around the table, a Japanese picture, representing the punishment of crucifixion, was shown to Yenoske. This had been purchased at Simoda, by some of our officers, and its presence turned the con- versation on the subject of capital punishments in Japan. The Commodore was glad of the opportunity to procure accurate information on this point, inas- much as some writers, later than Kæmpfer, have de- nied his statement that crucifixion is a Japanese mode of execution. Yenoske said that the picture itself CRUCIFIXION AND SUICIDE. 353 was illustrative merely of a scene in one of their popular farces; but, he added, that regicides were executed somewhat in the manner represented in the picture, being first nailed to a cross and then trans- fixed with a spear. In the picture the man was merely tied to the cross. Decapitation, however, he said, was the usual mode of capital punishment for murderers, but never strangulation or hanging. Upon Yenoske being asked if the practice of the Hari-kari or "Hap- py dispatch" still prevailed, he replied that one of his fellow interpreters had committed suicide in that way, in his presence, while at Nagasaki. The Com- modore then inquired if it were true that the governor of Nagasaki had destroyed himself, after the visit of Captain Pellow in 1808; and Yenoske declared that not only the governor had done so, but that two other high officers and ten subordinates had followed his example. The Japanese, after a prolonged conviviali- ty, took their farewell of the Americans, with many expressions of warm attachment to their visitors, and pulled off for the land. The ships were now all in readiness for departure. The Southampton, which had arrived from Volcano Bay on the 10th of June, and had discharged her cargo of coal into the steamers, the Macedonian, which reached Simoda on the eleventh, and the store- ship Supply that had been stationary in that port for several months, with the Mississippi, now the flag-ship, and the Powhatan, composed the whole squadron, and were anchored in the outer bay, preparatory to sailing for their respective destinations. Arrangements had been made to carry out the regulations agreed to with 354 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. the authorities in regard to the appointment of a har bor-master and three pilots, and these now, at the last moment, were completed by the signature of Kura- kawa-kahei, the deputy-governor, to a written con- tract, copies of which were made in English and Dutch, and deposited with the Japanese officials at Simoda. The harbor-master and the pilots, after hav- ing been selected by the local authorities, were brought to the Commodore for his confirmation of their appointment. The Commodore, having signified his approval of the choice, gave to the harbor-master a spy-glass, to be kept always at the look-out place and to pass to his successor in office; to each of the pilots a comfortable overcoat, and two American ensigns, to be displayed on board the pilot-boats when going ⚫ to any vessels that may appear off the harbor. The surveyors had marked the rocks, buoys, and promi- nent headlands with signal flags, but as the Japanese authorities objected to them as seeming to imply some evidence of right to possession, it was readily conceded that the Japanese should substitute for them their little white and black striped flags. On the morning of the 28th of June, 1854, the whole squadron got under way; but the wind shifting to the southward, the Macedonian and Supply were obliged to anchor again. The Commodore, accord- ingly, ordered these vessels to warp into a safe berth, and sail when the wind and weather should permit, and to keep company, if possible, to Kelung, in For- mosa, where they were bound. There seemed no oc- casion to wait for them, as their destination was different, and any further delay on the part of the DEPARTURE FROM SIMODA. 355 steamers would only result in an unnecessary consump→ tion of coal; so the Mississippi and the Powhatan, with the Southampton in tow, stood out to sea, and shaped a course to the southward and westward. In passing out beyond Rock Island a high sea was encountered, which gave additional proof that the outer as well as the inner harbor of Simoda is per- fectly safe; the violence of the sea being in a con- siderable degree broken by the ledge of rocks ex- tending, though not continuously, from Rock Island to Cape Idzu. After leaving Simoda, the Commodore directed the steamers to be steered to the southward, in order to obtain another observation of the Redfield rocks, discovered on the passage during the previous month of February. On coming up with them it was found • that their positions had been very correctly established by former notes, but care was taken to verify these by fresh observations. From the Redfield rocks a course was made for the northeast end of Oho-sima, the island claimed to have been discovered by Commander Glynn. On the previous passage to Japan, the west- ern shore of Oho-sima and the adjacent islands had been carefully observed. It was now determined to examine very closely the eastern coast, and, conse- quently, in the morning of the 29th of June, the northern point of Oho-sima was made with this view. It was found that this part of the island bore N. 82° W., and that the bearings, therefore, on the chart were erroneous. The steamers continuing their course, passed between Oho-sima and Kikai-sima, or Bunga- low Island, and traversed the eastern coast of the 356 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. former so closely, that all its sinuosities, bays, and in- lets, could be marked with much accuracy. Having at meridian obtained excellent observations of latitude and longitude, as the result of the notes of the three ships, it was practicable to determine the positions of the most prominent headlands by a series of angles deduced from these observations. After the meridian observations had been calcu- lated, Commodore Perry despatched two of the boats of the Mississippi, in charge of Lieutenants Maury and Webb, to visit a little bay of the island of Oho- sima, about two miles distant abreast the ships. These officers landed, and found only a small hamlet, and a squad of miserably clad natives drawn up on shore to meet them, armed with clubs, stones, and one old firelock. The inhabitants, however, notwithstanding their warlike aspect, were very civil, and gave, in ex- change for bread and pork, some fowls and vegetables. A few botanical specimens were also obtained, but there was no time, or, what is even more important, no coal to spare for any lengthened exploration. This was probably the first time a Christian had ever landed upon Oho-sima. Keeping as near as safety would permit to the chain of islands lying between Oho-sima and Lew Chew, the steamers were steered southward and westward during the night, and at daylight made the northern end of Great Lew Chew and the other islands in the neigh- borhood. On rounding the former a ship was discov- ered, about five miles distant, steering north with a fair wind. As soon, however, as she saw the steamers approaching, she tacked and stood to the southward ARRIVAL AT NAPHA. 357 and westward. The Commodore ordered two blank cartridges to be fired as a signal for the ship to heave to. At first she did not seem inclined to do so, but finding that the squadron was closing in upon her very fast, she tacked again, and running down towards the steamers, she finally hove to. The flag-lieutenant then boarded in a boat from the Mississippi, and learned that the vessel was an English ship from Shanghai bound to England. The captain explained the cause of his suspicious movements by saying that, having heard of the war with Russia, he had supposed at first that the American ships were the Russian squadron, and was greatly alarmed until he succeeded in making out distinctly the United States colors. He showed his friendly disposition by sending to the Commodore an English paper. Within ten miles of Napha, and as night ap- proached, it became so dark that it was deemed im- prudent to enter the harbor, and the vessels were accordingly kept merely under steerage-way until daylight, when the Powhatan cast off the Southamp- ton, which had orders to proceed direct to Hong Kong. Both steamers then entered the port of Na- pha, and came to anchor on the 1st of July, 1854. The steamship Lexington was found in the harbor, where she had arrived in the month of May. Her commander had a serious occurrence to report. It appeared that on the 12th of June three Ameri- can sailors, belonging to the Lexington, passing through the streets of Napha, forcibly entered the house of an inhabitant, and taking some sakee, be- came intoxicated, and sallied out. One of the three 358 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. then clambering over a wall, entered a private house, where he found a woman named Mila and her niece, a young girl. He brandished his knife, threatened the woman, and attempted the foulest outrage. Her cries brought some Lew Chew men to the house, who, becoming witnesses of the sailor's purpose, seized and threw him to the ground. The drunken sailor now rose and fled to the shore, seeking to escape. A crowd of natives soon gathering, pursued the fugitive, throwing stones at him as he fled, and as the Lew Chewans averred, in his drunkenness he tumbled into the water and was drowned. The Commodore determined that the case should be strictly investigated, and accordingly made a per- emptory demand upon the regent to cause a trial to be instituted according to the laws of Lew Chew. The demand was at once complied with, and the court was summoned. The flag-lieutenant and the inter- preter of the squadron were selected by the Commo- dore to attend the trial, in accordance with the request of the Lew Chew authorities. At the head of the room where the court was held, sat the regent and treasurer, while the American officers were placed in seats opposite to them. On their left three of the six native judges crouched on mats, while the others took their positions by the two Japanese dignitaries. The prisoner faced the court, kneeling on the ground outside, his head just above the raised floor of the hall, which was open to the front. His elbows were tied together behind his back, and if he were at all stubborn in answering the repeated questions of the judges, the two guards who stood by ད A LEW CHEWAN TRIAL. 359 punched him severely in the ribs with large sticks, about two inches in thickness and four feet in length. These never failed to loosen the fellow's tongue, but whether they impressed him with the necessity of telling the truth is doubtful. The Lew Chewan judges having declared that it was "altogether illegal to throw stones and wound persons, causing them thereby to fall into the water and be drowned," convicted six persons, one as principal and the others as accessories. After the conviction, the regent and first treasurer came on board the Mississippi with the ringleader bound, and desired to deliver him to the Commodore, to be dealt with according to the laws of the United States. The Commodore, however, declined to receive him. The prisoners were finally disposed of by the banishment of the principal from the island for life, and of the accessories for a limited time. * The two surviving Americans of those engaged in the outrage were now tried by a court-martial, and punished in accordance with naval discipline. After this troublesome affair was settled, the old courtesies were renewed with the authorities, and several con- ferences took place, in the course of which a treaty between the government of Lew Chew and the United States was agreed upon. In the rough draft drawn up by the Americans, the preamble re- cognized Lew Chew as an independent nation. This, upon its being submitted to the regent, was objected to, as he said, that such an passumtion on the part of the island, would get the authorities into trouble with China, to which country they owed allegiance. * See Appendix. 360 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. On the day (12th July, 1854) after the signing of the treaty, the regent sent the Commodore a large bell as a present for himself; whether this was of Lew Chew casting is not known, but wherever made, it was a creditable specimen of manufacture. While the ships continued to lie at anchor in the bay, a na- tive of Japan, who happened to be in Lew Chew, swam from the shore, with a bundle of clothing, to the Lexington and begged to be carried to the United States. He was then sent to the flag-ship, where the Commodore refused to receive him, on the same ground that he had objected to take away the two Japanese from Simoda. On the 17th of July, 1854, the Commodore sailed in the Mississippi for Hong Kong, in company with the Powhatan, the Lexington having been despatched two days previously to the same place. It was a source, doubtless, of no little gratification to the Lew Chewans, whatever may have been their feelings at the departure of the Americans themselves, that the steamers had carried off Dr. Bettelheim, who seemed to be the bête noir of the authorities, who had con- stantly importuned* the Commodore to take him *From the authorities of Lew Chew to Commodore Perry: A prepared statement. Sho Fu-fing, general superintendent of affairs in the kingdom of Lew Chew, and Ba Rio-si, treasurer at Shui, earnestly beg your excellency's kind consideration of some circumstances; and that, to show compassion on our little country, you will take away back to their own land Bettelheim and Moreton, who have remained here long. ** * * In the years 1844 and 1846 some French officers came, and the Eng- lishman Bettelheim also brought hither his wife and children to reside, and they all required something to be daily given to them, to our con- COMMODORE HAULS DOWN HIS FLAG. 361 away. They seemed, in fact, to have a strong objec- tion to missionaries in general, and were equally anx- ious to get rid of Dr. Bettelheim's successor, a Rev. Mr. Moreton, from England. The steamers arrived after a short passage at Hong Kong, where the Commodore, having received de- spatches from his government giving him leave to return home, made over the command of the squadron to Captain Abbot. He then returned to the United States by the Overland route from India, and arrived in New York on the 12th January, 1855, having been absent two years and two months. On the 23d of April, 1855, the Mississippi reached the Navy Yard, at Brooklyn, and on the next day Commodore Perry, going on board, hauled down his flag. tinual annoyance and trouble. Whenever an English or a French ship came in, we earnestly represented these circumstances to them, and be- sought them to take these people away with them. The Frenchmen, knowing our distresses, went away in the year 1848 to their own coun- try, and have not hitherto returned; but Bettelheim has loitered away years here and not gone, and now further, has brought Moreton with his family to take his place, and live here, greatly to the discomfort of the people, and distress and inconvenience of the country. We have learned that your excellency has authority over all the East Indian, China, and Japan seas, and not a ship of any western country can go from one of these seas to the other but you know and regulate its movements. Wherefore we lay before you our sad condition in all its particulars, humbly beseeching your kind regard upon it, and requesting that, when your fine ships shall return, you will take both Bettelheim and Moreton away with you. This will solace and raise us up from our low condition, and oblige us in a way not easy to be expressed. We wish your life may be prolonged to a thousand autumns, in the enjoyment of the highest felicity. JULY 10, 1854. 16 CHAPTER XVI. As some of the ships of the squadron were engaged in other duties not directly connected with the main purpose of the expedition to Japan, it has been thought better to defer a record of their movements to a clos- ing chapter. While at Hakodadi, the Commodore had de- spatched, on May 20th, 1854, the Southampton to make a survey of Volcano Bay, including Ender- mo Harbor, distant about seventy miles from Hako- dadi, and situated at the south-eastern end of Yesso. The ship arrived off the southern promontory of Volcano Bay at five o'clock on the afternoon of the day of her departure. The wind soon lulled to a dead calm, and the bay was not entered until the next morning. The weather being very thick, the ship bore away for the harbor of Endermo, and short- ly after noon, made the land ahead, which, being ap- proached to within two miles, was coasted in ten fathoms of water, taking care to keep off when shoal- ing in that depth. The fog was so thick, and the breakers were so far off the shore, that it was not deemed prudent to approach too near the land; and, SURVEY OF VOLCANO BAY. 363 consequently, the entrance to the harbor of Endermo, which is quite narrow and shut in by adjacent points, could not be seen. Its position, however, having been passed, the ship, continuing to run along the land by the lead until seven o'clock in the evening, came then to anchor in front of a small village. As the night advanced, the atmosphere cleared, for a moment, sufficiently to allow of the sight of several junks an- chored near a large town about three miles distant. The fog soon gathered again, and continued so thick all the rest of that night and the next day, with fresh breezes from E. S. E., that it was deemed more pru- dent to remain at anchor, and the ship did not again get under way until the 27th of May. At sunrise on that day, the fog having partly dis- persed, the Southampton stood for the eastern coast, sounding with a boat in five fathoms, to within a mile and a half of the shore, and also running a line of soundings in the ship. As the morning advanced the fog cleared off, and revealed to view a charming scene of picturesque beauty. The land rose from the sandy beach in undulating heights, covered with trees of dark green foliage, interspersed here and there with yellow spots of culture, while innumerable houses were seen every where grouped at the open- ings of the ravines toward the sea, into which streams of fresh water poured, after irrigating the cultivated fields on the hillsides and the fertile bottoms of the valleys, and passing through the villages. The meridian observation having been taken, which gave the latitude 42° 17', the ship, heading east, made for an indentation in the land, supposed to 364 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. a be the entrance to the harbor of Volcano Bay, and with a depth of water of seventeen fathoms and a fair wind, before which she was going at nine knots, the whole circuit of the large bay soon opened to the sight. An amphitheatre of lofty mountains, with summits covered with snow, surrounded the land, which gradually lessened in height as it descended toward the hills and uplands that rose immediately from the shore. To the north-east were two volcanoes in active eruption, throwing out convulsively their thick smoke, which, as it swept before the breeze, darkened with its passing but ever recurring shadow the snow which glittered like silver upon the sunlit summits of the neighboring mountains. Passing a small island, called Olason, from one of Captain Broughton's men who was buried there, the Southampton stood up the channel of Endermo, and anchored in the evening near the land, where a few houses, a fortification upon an adjacent hill, and some sheds upon the shore, indicated a settlement. Soon two officials came off in a boat, rowed by a number of Indians, the native ainos, as they are called, and upon reaching the ship the Japanese functionaries produced a bit of paper in which was wrapped some rice and a piece of wood, and displaying the contents, pointing at the same time to some water, asked by signs if either of these were required. The chief dig- nitary, who, in addition to the usual Japanese official costume, wore an outside coat with a red collar and a great deal of embroidery, and seemed to be a mili- tary personage, was not apparently disposed to be very friendly toward his visitors. Upon his being AINOS. 365 made to understand that if any fish, vegetables, eggs, or poultry could be obtained from the land, the Amer- icans would be glad to purchase them, the Japanese officer sent his boat ashore, apparently with the view of ascertaining. Upon its return, the only article brought back was a bundle of stems, looking like those of the rhubarb plant, with the information that, in consequence of the weather, there were no fish, and only three chickens in the place. Next morning a surveying party commenced their operations in the bay, and continued them during the stay of the ship. Little was to be had from the shore in the way of provisions, but the bay abounded in clams, muscles, and fish, and large supplies were ob- tained. The inhabitants, who were mostly ainos, had been very much alarmed at the arrival of the South- ampton, and were seen hurrying away from the har- bor and village with all their property heaped upon their backs, so that the land was quite deserted. These Ainos were of a stature less than that of Europeans, averaging a little over five feet in height, but well proportioned and with intelligent features. Their color was quite dark, and their hair black and coarse, which was clipped behind, but allowed to straggle in thick matted locks down in front, in a con- fused cluster with their long beards, which are never cut or shaven.—Their legs were bare of artificial cov- ering, but grown over with a plentiful crop of coarse hair, which, together with the abundant growth on their heads and faces, has given them the name, by which they are better known, of "Hairy Kuriles." Their dress was a coarse and ragged blue undergar- 366 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. ment reaching below the knees, over which was thrown carelessly a brown sack with wide sleeves, made of grass or skins. Their dishevelled hair and rude costume gave them a wild look, and they had a dirty poverty-stricken aspect. Their chief occupation is fishing, which they carry on under the eye and for the benefit of their Japanese taskmasters, to whose ab- solute will they are subject. The few Japanese officials became gradually more friendly, and frequently visited the ship and partook of its hospitalities. Nothing occurred of especial in- terest during the visit to Endermo Bay beyond the blazing up one night of another volcano, making three which were seen from the ship in a state of active eruption at the same time. The sudden starting up of a broad and vivid flame from the summit of a mountain in the midst of the night, dispelling at once the darkness which enveloped sea and land, produced a grand effect. The other two volcanoes merely emit- ted smoke, while the third continued in a blaze. Lieutenant Boyle, commander of the Southamp- ton, visited Olason island, at the mouth of Endermo Bay, previous to his departure, and found the grave of the buried sailor left there by Captain Broughton. The Japanese authorities had respected the remains, though they had been interred more than three-fourths of a century, and built on the spot where they rested one of the usual tombs of the country, with the ordi- nary marks of mourning. The survey having been completed, the ship sailed to join the squadron at Simoda, pursuant to orders. VISIT TO FORMOSA. 367 On the 29th of June the Macedonian, Captain Abbot, left Simoda in company with the store ship Supply for Formosa. The two vessels parted compa- ny on the second day out, and saw nothing of each other again until their arrival in the harbor of Ke- lung, which the Macedonian, notwithstanding an op- posing current, head winds and stormy weather, reached in twelve days, while the Supply did not arrive until ten days afterward. As the northern end of the island bore in sight, very strong currents were experienced, which were supposed to have been in- creased by the prevalence of stormy weather. The principal objects of the visit were to survey the harbor and coasts, to inquire about certain Ame- rican sailors who were supposed to have been ship- wrecked on the island, and to investigate its resources in regard especially to coal. It was learned very satisfactorily that there were none of our shipwrecked countrymen in Formosa; although the chief manda- rin of Kelung, as Captain Abbot was about to leave, informed him that he had heard that a ship had been wrecked some six or seven years before on the west- ern side of the island. He moreover stated that the crew had consisted of blacks and whites, the former of whom had remained in the ship and gone down with her, while the latter had made their escape in the boat to a neighboring island. Captain Abbot was not disposed to believe this story, as it contradicted the more authentic informa- tion he had gathered from other sources, and because there was reason to suspect that the mandarin of Ke- 368 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. lung had his own private objects to serve. The man- darin's troops had lately been defeated in an engage- ment with the rebels, and he was striving to obtain the aid of the Captain, in taking his revenge and driving off the enemy from the western side of the island where they were then collected. He had con- stantly importuned Captain Abbot for his assistance, but without effect, and at last hit upon the expedient of the story of the shipwreck on the western side of the island, where he offered to send some of his war junks, to show the Americans the place; and prom- ised if they would assist him against the rebels there, he would give them on their return a large ship-load of coal. The mandarin's story and his proffered bribes were alike rejected. Coal was found in great abundance and of ex- cellent quality, obtained from mines conveniently situated for easy transportation to vessels in the har- bor. Much of the island appeared to be underlaid with coal, and particularly that part in the neighbor- hood of Kelung. Several tons were purchased, but the Formosans, high and low, were such adepts at a bargain, that our cunning countrymen even had to acknowledge themselves outwitted. After remaining until the completion of a thor- ough survey of the harbor and the adjacent coasts, the Macedonian sailed for Manilla on 23d July, leav- ing the Supply to load with the coal purchased at Formosa, whence she was bound to Hong Kong. Soon after getting clear of the northern shores of For- mosa, the Macedonian came within the border of a typhoon, and encountered a succession of heavy tem- MARINE VOLCANOES. 269 pest squalls, with hard, drenching rains, which "were peculiarly severe and frightful." On this passage the ship suffered more in her sails and rigging than during the whole voyage from the United States. The neighborhood of Formosa is remarkable for severe typhoons and other convulsions of nature. Marine volcanoes have been observed on several oc- casions and reported by our officers. It was within. ten miles of Formosa that Lieutenant Commanding Boyle, in the store-ship Southampton, when on his way from the United States to join the squadron at Hong Kong, observed one of these extraordinary phe- nomena. "On the 29th of October, 1853, near the island of Formosa," says Captain Boyle, "I discovered a volcano, distant from the land about ten miles, in a violent state of eruption, throwing out columns of vapor to a great height, resembling in appearance a similar phenomenon to which I was witness some years ago on the coast of Sicily; this, however, was of greater magnitude and force than that, although no lava was visible, by reason of the dense bank of vapor which hung around it. The depth of water here is much greater than on the Sicilian coast, and hence my conclusion as to the cause of not seeing lava. When last seen, at 3 P. M., it was in a lively state of activity, and bore N.N.W., distant about ten miles. It was in latitude about 24° N., and longitude 121° 50′ E.; there was no sail in sight. (6 Shortly after passing the neighborhood of the volcano, we passed through a very heavy over-fall or rip, so much so, that the executive officer and others, at first, supposed that there were breakers. I had 16* 370 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. seen such an appearance before, and decided that it was, what it proved to be, an effect of the volcano merely. On arriving, a few days afterwards, at Lew Chew, I found that they had had a few shakes. *** "On my discovery of the phenomenon off For- mosa, I had at the mast-head, in addition to the usual look-out, a seaman, called Gilbert Lee, in whom I had great confidence, who at first thought the ap- pearance was caused by a steamer. One of the petty officers, A. L. Benton, also, took particular notice of it; several on deck said they did not know what to make of it. As I have before stated, it had the same appearance as when Graham's island rose from the ocean off the coast of Sicily." Another officer, Lieutenant Jones, describes a similar phenomenon which occurred in 1850, while he was in command of the U. S. sloop-of-war St. Mary's. "It was in latitude about 20° 56′ N.,” writes Mr. Jones, "and longitude 134° 45′ E. We were bound from the Sandwich Islands to Hong Kong. The wind at the time was moderate from the east- ward, and the sea smooth. At about 11 P. M., the ship going seven or eight knots, the wind suddenly died away, the sea became troubled, the air heated, and a sulphurous smell was, to some of the men, very apparent. There were puffs of wind from different quarters, but before the yards could be braced around, it would be calm again. This lasted about twen- ty-five minutes, when the wind came out as before from the eastward, and when I came on deck at midnight, there was nothing unusual in the appear- ance of the weather or sea. My information was A BOAT ADRIFT. · 371 derived immediately from the officers and men of the watch." The visit of the Macedonian to Manilla is asso- ciated with an incident of curious and pathetic interest. On the morning of the 5th of August, 1853, in about latitude 18° 46′ N., longitude 124° E., the store- ship Southampton, Lieutenant Commanding Boyle, was steering S.W. by W., the wind blowing from the northward and westward a fresh top-gallant breeze, with considerable swell, when a boat was discovered to windward. The ship was hove to, and the boat and its contents were taken on board. When hoist- ed in and measured, the craft was found to be twelve feet long, four wide, and seventeen inches deep. On board of the boat, when the ship thus picked her up, were six males, four of whom were adults and two were boys, the one about ten and the other fourteen years of age. They were all of healthy ap- pearance, of medium stature, of a dark color, the hair cut close, not tattooed, and did not appear to be much exhausted. Captain Boyle supposed, from their appearance, that they might have been adrift some two or three days. They had in the boat about two or three dozen ears of Indian corn (maize), a few sweet potatoes, some prepared betel nuts, a cask, two gongs, a fishing net, an axe, a small piece of grass cloth as a sail, and a colored piece supposed to be a flag. Of water they had none; but from the fre- quent showers encountered by the ship, Captain Boyle concluded they had not suffered much from the want of it. 372 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. To what nation or people these poor creatures be- longed no one could tell, as nobody on board could. understand their language. It was observed, how- ever, that the word most frequently on their lips was Sil-li-ba-boo. The nearest land to the ship was Cape Engano, the N.E. point of Luconia, distant about one hundred miles. The Babuan and Bashee group were about one hundred and eighty miles directly to wind- ward; and the first conjecture was that possibly they might belong to these. Their dress consisted of wide- legged trowsers extending a little below the knee, with a dark-colored gown enveloping the entire per- son, and secured around the neck by a drawing-string; their heads they would sometimes bind around with a cotton handkerchief, after a fashion not unlike that used by the blacks of the Southern States. Though seemingly not much exhausted when they were taken on board the ship, yet they evidently experienced great difficulty in walking, from their long confine- ment in a cramped position. Sleep, with suitable diet, however, soon restored them to their usual condition. When the ship came near and passed through the group of islands just named, the commander watched closely to observe if they showed any mark of recog nition. Their attention was called to them by signs, and they seemed to understand the pantomimic in- quiry, for they invariably shook their heads as if to imply that their home was not there, and pointing to- wards the eastward, said, "Sil-li-ba-boo." Soon after the ship arrived at Com-sing-moon, in China, and here great pains were taken to discover, if possible, SIL-LI-BA-BOO. 373 where these poor adventurers belonged. There were many ships lying there, and the Commodore directed that diligent search should be made among them all, in the hope that, perchance, some one might be found who could communicate with them. They were visited by many from the various vessels, and, from their timi- dity, they fell at first under the suspicion that they were anxious to remain unknown; but Captain Boyle became quite convinced that their shyness, and re- pugnance to leave the ship, proceeded from fear alone. They were taken on board each of the trading ships at Com-sing-moon, and out of the numerous tongues spoken on board not one was found like that spoken by these men. At length they uttered some words when on the deck of the English ship Bombay, which Captain Jamieson, the commander, thought he re- cognized as belonging to the language of the natives of the Bentinck Isles. On perceiving that their words were attracting notice, they made their usual salaam, and uttering Sil-li-ba-boo, afterwards held their peace. There is an island called by that name, and mentioned by Horsburg as being in latitude 4° N., longitude 127° E., but this is so remote from the spot where they were picked up, some twelve or fifteen hundred miles, that Captain Boyle could not suppose it possi- ble they had drifted such a distance. The wind had, indeed, for several days been strong from the south- ward and eastward, just before the boat was seen, though at the time they were picked up it was from the northward and westward. Notwithstanding this, however, it seemed most improbable that in their frail craft they could have floated so many miles. Captain 371 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. Jamieson and his crew interested themselves much for these poor creatures, and persevered in their efforts to communicate with them by means of the slight vo- cabulary they had acquired in their voyagings; and though such communication was very imperfect, of course, yet it was plain some words were understood, and the unfortunate men were evidently pleased, and sought opportunities of mingling with those who could comprehend any portion, however small, of their lan- guage. With these imperfect means of knowledge, the best account Captain Jamieson could gather from them was, that they did come from Sil-li-ba-boo, dis- tant as it was; that they left the land in their boat with some articles of food for a vessel in the offing, met a fresh breeze which carried them out to sea, and, by its continuance, prevented their return to land, and that they had been in the boat fifteen days when the Southampton picked them up. The chief purpose of the visit of the Macedonian to Manilla was to leave the Sil-li-ba-boos with the governor-general of the Philippines, that they might be protected and sent home. The governor, with many expressions of gratitude for the kindness that and been shown toward these involuntary wanderers, received them; and we may indulge the hope that, long ere this, they have reached their native island, there to tell to their wondering countrymen the story of their providential preservation and marvellous ad- ventures. On the 17th of August, the Macedonian left Ma- nilla for Hong Kong, where she arrived on the 26th. MISSION OF CAPTAIN ADAMS. 375 Commander Adams, it will be remembered, was dispatched home with a copy of the treaty, on the 4th of April, 1854, in the Saratoga. On the 1st of May, he reached Honolulu, and took the first vessel that offered for San Francisco, and, thence, taking the usual route, via Panama, reached the City of Wash- ington on the 12th of July, thus making the journey from Japan to our seat of government in three months and eight days. The treaty was submitted by the President to the Senate, and was by that body prompt- ly and unanimously ratified; and on the 30th of Sep- tember Commander Adams left New York with the ratified copy for Japan. On reaching England, he took the overland route, and arrived at Hong Kong on the 1st of January, 1855. The Powhatan was or- dered by Commodore Abbot immediately to convey Commander Adams to Simoda, where he arrived on the 26th of January, 1855, with full powers as the representative of the United States to exchange with the Japanese authorities the ratifications of the treaty. The journey back to Simoda occupied three months and twenty-seven days, and the whole time that elapsed between the signing of the treaty and the arrival of it in Japan, duly ratified by the President and Senate, was nine months and twenty-two days. On the arrival of Commander Adams at Simoda, he found a great and sad change in the physical as- pects of the place. In the interval during his ab- sence from Japan (on the 23d of December, 1854), an earthquake had occurred which was felt on the whole coast of Japan, doing some injury to the capi- 376 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. tal, Yedo, completely destroying the fine city of Osaca on the south-eastern side of Niphon, and leaving abun- dant evidences of its ruinous effects at Simoda. Every house and public building on the low grounds had been destroyed; a few temples and private edifices that stood on elevated spots, and but sixteen struc- tures in all, were left of what was once Simoda. The inhabitants told Commander Adams that the destruc- tion was not caused by the immediate agitation of the earth, but by the action of the sea which it occasioned, and which regularly followed the shocks. According to the statements of the Japanese, the waters in the bay and near the shore were first ob- served to be violently agitated; they soon began rapidly to retreat, leaving the bottom of the harbor, where usually there were five fathoms of water, near- ly bare. The water then rushed in upon the land in a wave five fathoms above its usual height, and, over- flowing the town up to the tops of the houses, swept every thing away. The frightened inhabitants fled to the hills for safety, but before they could reach their summits they were overtaken by the climbing waters and hundreds were drowned. The waters retreated and returned in this manner five several times, tear- ing down every thing, and strewing the adjacent shores with the wrecks and ruins of houses prostrated and vessels torn from their anchorage. The Russian frigate Diana, bearing the flag of Admiral Pontiatine, was lying in the harbor at the time. The Russian officers told Commander Adams that, when the waters retreated, the mud boiled up from the bottom in a thousand springs. When they came in they were THE EARTHQUAKE AT SIMODA. 377 agitated like a maelstrom, and such was their velocity and force that the frigate actually made forty-three complete revolutions in the space of thirty minutes. The officers and crew were made giddy by this rapid turning. Their anchor had been let go in six fathoms; when the waters retreated they could see it, and had but four feet of water alongside. The ship's rudder, stern-post, and a great part of her keel, were knocked off and lost, and her bottom was very much injured. After the effects of the earthquake had somewhat sub- sided, and the sea became comparatively tranquil, she was found to leak badly. Her guns were landed, and as there was no suitable place in Simoda to heave her down, Admiral Pontiatine sent to look for some con- tiguous spot fit for the purpose; and he informed Commander Adams that he found a most excellent and sheltered harbor, resembling that of Hakodadi, but smaller, and completely land-locked, with an abundance of water. It is about sixty miles from Simoda, at a place called Hed-do, situated at the head of the bay which lies westward of the peninsula of Idzu. Here the Russian admiral attempted to take his disabled ship and repair her, but a gale came on, and she foundered near the shore, the officers and crew with difficulty saving their lives. They were all in Japan during the stay of Commander Adams, and, at that time, with little prospect of getting away. They, however, subsequently chartered the American schooner Foote, and sailed in her for Petropaulowski. The Russians were in distress, and Captain McCluney, of the Powhatan, generously supplied them with all the provisions he could spare from his ship. The ob- 378 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. ject of the admiral was to make for his country a treaty with Japan, and it was concluded after the loss of his ship, and during the stay of Commander Ad- ams, who was informed by the admiral that it was exactly like that made by Commodore Perry for us, with the single change of a substitution of the harbor of Nagasaki for that of Napha in Lew Chew; this is no improvement, inasmuch as the long continued and tame submission of the Dutch at Dezima has taught the Japanese officials there to be very arrogant and insolent toward foreigners. But, although Admiral Pontiatine thus succeeded in making a treaty, the Ja- panese "appeared to entertain no goodwill toward the Russians." While the Powhatan was at Simoda, a French ship arrived there and anchored in the outer harbor, having on board two Japanese seamen who had been taken off the wreck of a junk about three years be- fore by an American whale-ship. The authorities ordered the vessel off, would permit none of their people to go on board of her, and positively refused to receive the shipwrecked seamen. They had, they said, no treaty with France, and French vessels had no right to come there under any pretext. At the intercession, however, of Commander Adams, they agreed to receive their shipwrecked countrymen from the Powhatan, if he would first receive them on board his ship, and then deliver them as coming from an American man-of-war. This plan was adopted. The men were kept all night on board the Powhatan, and landed the next morning. They were immediately, however, compelled to lay aside their European cloth- RESTORATION OF SIMODA. 379 ing, and conform in all respects to the Japanese cos- tume; besides which they were placed under a strict surveillance, which continued so long as the ship remained. Notwithstanding the calamities caused by the earthquake, there was shown a resiliency, in the Ja- panese character, which spoke well for their energy. They were busily engaged, when the Powhatan ar- rived, in clearing away and rebuilding. Stone, timber, thatch, tiles, lime, &c., were coming in daily from all quarters, and before the Powhatan left, there were about three hundred new houses nearly or quite completed, though occasional and some pretty strong shocks, during the ship's stay, were admonishing them of a possible recurrence of the calamity. The outlines of the harbor of Simoda were not altered at all by the earthquake, but the holding ground seems to have been washed out to sea, leaving no bottom scarcely but naked rocks. This, however, will be resupplied, as it was furnished in the first in- stance, by the washings from the land, which will probably accumulate rapidly. The Powhatan, for want of holding ground, dragged with three anchors ahead, the wind blowing across the harbor, and no sea. Indeed, she was obliged to rely on her steam to keep off the rocks. The Japanese were much more disposed to be friendly and sociable than on the former visit. The officers of the ship roamed over the country undis- turbed, went into the villages, and were received with a welcome everywhere. Espionage seemed to have been laid aside, for there was no attempt to follow or 380 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. watch them. The shops having all been destroyed, a bazaar was opened in a temple repaired for the pur- pose, and was soon filled with a variety of beautiful articles brought from Yedo and the interior towns. The officers were not only invited but importuned to buy, which they did very freely. An anxious wish was expressed by the people to Commander Adams, that trading vessels from America would soon begin. to visit them, and the governor of Simoda intimated. to the Commander that it would be very agreeable to him, personally, if a consul from the United States should be appointed to reside at Simoda. The Japanese were exceedingly desirous of ob- taining English books, particularly on medical and scientific subjects; and many valuable works were given to them by our officers. But they coveted our books on any subject except religion. One circum- stance occurred which, says Commander Adams, "made me feel a little ashamed." "The governor of Simoda sent off a bundle of religious books which he said 'Bittinger' (one of the chaplains of Commodore Perry's squadron) had left there clandestinely, which was contrary to Japanese law, and 'not right;' and he begged me to take them away with me, which I agreed to do." Commander Adams found that they had learned to manage the locomotive which the President had sent to the Emperor; they had also the life-boat afloat, with a trained crew, but the magnetic telegraph they said was too hard for them yet. Every day, when Commander Adams was not employed on shore, the lieutenant-governor or some official of high rank came EXCHANGE OF RATIFICATIONS. 381 off to visit him, and their meetings were those of old friends. Some of them indeed were old acquaint- ances; the governor of Simoda was Isawa Mimasaki Nokami, one of the treaty commissioners, and our old friend the interpreter, Moryama Yenoske, was also at Simoda, having been very deservedly promoted; others of the commissioners were also there for the purpose of exchanging ratifications. They inquired with great interest about Commodore Perry, sent many messages of friendship and remembrance, and charged Commander Adams to say to him that his "name would live for ever in the history of Japan." As to the exchange of ratifications, the Japanese, at first, interposed two objections; these, however, did not arise from unwillingness to abide by their engage- ments, but were rather technical, and founded upon their scrupulous interpretation of the terms of a writ- ten contract, and upon their profound respect for cere- monials. The objections were first, that their copy of the treaty said it was to be ratified after eighteen months; ours said within eighteen months; but as the Dutch and Chinese translations agreed with the English copy, and as that had been taken as the origi- nal, from which all the translations, including their Japanese version, had been made, they became con- vinced that the discrepancy arose from the ignorance. of their translator, and having had explained to them what was meant by the English word "within," as here used, they very gracefully withdrew all objec- tion on this score. The other objection was to the Emperor's affixing his sign manual to the Japanese copy for our government. They said the Emperor 382 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. never signed any document, but the supreme council only. Commander Adams represented to them that the President and Secretary of State had signed the copy he had brought for them, and beside, the Em- peror was the party named in the instrument as having made the treaty, and therefore he wished his signature. Finally, it was concluded that both the Emperor and supreme council should sign it, and it was accordingly done. On the 21st of February, the exchanges were for- mally made, and as soon as it was done, the Powhatan immediately showed the Japanese flag at the fore and fired a salute of seventeen guns. The Commissioners also gave Commander Adams a ratified copy of the "additional regulations" made between the Commo- dore and the Japanese Commissioners, which they seemed to consider part of the treaty, with a request that he would deliver it to the President, and ask him to send out, by some American ship, the American ratification, as soon as it was completed. On the next day the Powhatan left Simoda. APPENDIX. MILLARD FILLMORE, PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, TO HIS IMPERIAL MAJESTY, THE EMPE- ROR OF JAPAN. GREAT AND GOOD FRIEND: I send you this public letter by Commodore Matthew C. Perry, an officer of the highest rank in the navy of the United States, and commander of the squadron now visiting your imperial majesty's dominions. I have directed Commodore Perry to assure your impe- rial majesty that I entertain the kindest feelings towards your majesty's person and government, and that I have no other object in sending him to Japan but to propose to your imperial majesty that the United States and Japan should live in friendship and have commercial intercourse with each other. The Constitution and laws of the United States forbid all interference with the religious or political concerns of other nations. I have particularly charged Commodore Perry to abstain from every act which could possibly dis- turb the tranquillity of your imperial majesty's dominions. The United States of America reach from ocean to ocean, and our territory of Oregon and State of California lie directly opposite to the dominions of your imperial majes- 384 APPENDIX. ty. Our steamships can go from California to Japan in eighteen days. Our great State of California produces about sixty mil- lions of dollars in gold every year, besides silver, quicksilver, precious stones, and many other valuable articles. Japan is also a rich and fertile country, and produces many very val- uable articles. Your imperial majesty's subjects are skilled in many of the arts. I am desirous that our two countries should trade with each other, for the benefit both of Japan and the United States. We know that the ancient laws of your imperial majesty's government do not allow of foreign trade, except with the Chinese and the Dutch; but as the state of the world changes and new governments are formed, it seems to be wise, from time to time, to make new laws. There was a time when the ancient laws of your imperial majesty's gov- ernment were first made. About the same time America, which is sometimes called the New World, was first discovered and settled by the Eu- ropeans. For a long time there were but a few people, and they were poor. They have now become quite numerous; their commerce is very extensive; and they think that if your imperial majesty were so far to change the ancient laws as to allow a free trade between the two countries, it would be extremely beneficial to both. If your imperial majesty is not satisfied that it would be safe altogether to abrogate the ancient laws which forbid. foreign trade, they might be suspended for five or ten years, so as to try the experiment. If it does not prove as bene- ficial as was hoped, the ancient laws can be restored. The United States often limit their treaties with foreign States to a few years, and then renew them or not, as they please. I have directed Commodore Perry to mention another thing to your imperial majesty. Many of our ships pass APPENDIX. 385 every year from California to China; and great numbers of our people pursue the whale fishery near the shores of Japan. It sometimes happens, in stormy weather, that one of our ships is wrecked on your imperial majesty's shores. In all such cases we ask, and expect, that our unfortunate people should be treated with kindness, and that their property should be protected, till we can send a vessel and bring them away. We are very much in earnest in this. Commodore Perry is also directed by me to represent to your imperial majesty that we understand there is a great abundance of coal and provisions in the Empire of Japan. Our steamships, in crossing the great ocean, burn a great deal of coal, and it is not convenient to bring it all the way from America. We wish that our steamships and other vessels should be allowed to stop in Japan and supply themselves with coal, provisions, and water. They will pay for them in money, or any thing else your imperial majesty's subjects may prefer; and we request your imperial majesty to appoint a convenient port, in the southern part of the Empire, where our vessels may stop for this purpose. We are very desirous of this. These are the only objects for which I have sent Com- modore Perry, with a powerful squadron, to pay a visit to your imperial majesty's renowned city of Yedo: friendship, commerce, a supply of coal and provisions, and protection for our shipwrecked people. beg your impe- They are of no We have directed Commodore Perry to rial majesty's acceptance of a few presents. great value in themselves; but some of them may serve as specimens of the articles manufactured in the United States, and they are intended as tokens of our sincere and respect- ful friendship. May the Almighty have your imperial majesty in His great and holy keeping! 17 386 APPENDIX. In witness whereof, I have caused the great seal of the United States to be hereunto affixed, and have subscribed the same with my name, at the city of Washington, in Amer- ica, the seat of my government, on the thirteenth day of the month of November, in the year one thousand eight hundred and fifty-two. [Seal attached.] Your good friend, MILLARD FILLMORE. By the President: 1 EDWARD EVERETT, Secretary of State. TRANSLATION OF ANSWER TO THE LETTER OF THE PRE- SIDENT TO THE EMPEROR OF JAPAN. "The return of your excellency, as ambassador of the United States to this Empire, has been expected according to the letter of his Majesty the President, which letter your excellency delivered last year to his Majesty, the Emperor of this Empire. "It is quite impossible to give satisfactory answers at once to all the proposals of your government, as it is most positively forbidden by the laws of our Imperial ancestors; but for us to continue attached to the ancient laws, seems to misunderstand the spirit of the age; however, we are governed now by imperative necessity. "At the visit of your excellency last year to this Em- pire, his Majesty the former Emperor was sick, and is now dead. Subsequently, his Majesty the present Emperor as- cended the throne; the many occupations in consequence thereof are not yet finished, and there is no time to settle other business thoroughly. Moreover, his Majesty, the new APPENDIX. 387 Emperor, at the accession to the throne, promised to the princes and high officers of the Empire to observe the laws. It is therefore evident that he cannot now bring about any alteration in the ancient laws. "Last autumn, at the departure of the Dutch ship, the superintendent of the Dutch trade in Japan was requested to inform your government of this event, and a reply in writing has been received. "At Nagasaki arrived recently the Russian ambassador to communicate a wish of his government. He has since left the said place, because no answer would be given to any nation that might communicate similar wishes. However, we admit the urgency of, and shall entirely comply with, the proposals of your government concerning coal, wood, water, provisions, and the saving of ships and their crews in dis- tress. After being informed which harbor your excellency selects, the harbor shall be prepared, which preparation it is estimated will take about five years. Meanwhile a com- mencement can be made with the coal at Nagasaki by the next Japanese first month, (Siogoots,) (16th of February, 1855.) Having no precedent with respect to coal, we request your excellency to furnish us with an estimate, and upon due consideration this will be complied with, if not in oppo- sition to our laws. What do you understand by provisions, and how much coal? Finally, any thing ships may be in want of that can be furnished from the productions of this Empire, shall be sup- plied. The prices of merchandise and articles of barter to be fixed by Kurakawa Kahei and Moryama Yenoske. After settling the points before mentioned, the treaty can be con- cluded and signed at the next interview. "Seals attached by order of the high gentlemen. "MORYAMA YENOSKE." 388 APPENDIX. COMMODORE PERRY TO JAPANESE COMMISSIONERS. UNITED STATES FLAG-SHIP POWHATAN, Yedo Bay, off the town of Yoku-hama, March 1, 1854. YOUR EXCELLENCY: In presenting for the consideration of your highness the accompanying draught of a treaty, which, in all its essential features, is identical with that at present subsisting between the United States and China, I again venture to urge upon the imperial government of Ja- pan the importance of establishing a friendly understanding with the nation which I have the honor on this occasion to represent. It would be needless in me to reiterate the arguments already advanced in support of a measure so fraught with the best interests of the two nations, and so necessary to the peace and prosperity of Japan. I have in a former communication remarked that the President of the United States entertains the strongest de- sire, and cherishes a most fervent hope, that the mission which he has intrusted to my charge may result in the ac- complishment of a treaty mutually beneficial, and tending to avert, by timely negotiation, the consequences that would otherwise grow out of collisions certain to arise, should the present undefined relations between the two countries much longer continue. In the increasing number of American ships almost daily passing and repassing the territories of Japan, the President is apprehensive of the occurrence of some further act of hostility towards the unoffending citizens of the United States who may be thrown by misfortune upon your shores, and hence his wish to establish a treaty of friendship, which shall give assurance of the discontinuance of a course of policy, on the part of the Japanese, altogether at variance APPENDIX. 389 with the usages of other nations, and no longer to be toler- ated by the United States. As an evidence of the friendly intentions of the Presi- dent, and to pay the highest honor to his Imperial Majesty, he has sent me in command of a number of ships—to be in- creased by others which are to follow-not only to bear to his Majesty the letter which I have already presented, but to evince, by every suitable act of kindness, the cordial feel- ings entertained by him towards Japan. That there might be sufficient time allowed for a full con- sideration of the just and reasonable demands of the Presi- dent, I took upon myself to withdraw the ships in July last from the coast, and have now, after an absence of seven months, returned, in the full expectation of a most satisfac- tory arrangement. Another proof of the friendly disposition of the Presi dent has been given in his sending for exhibition to the Im- perial court three of the magnificent steamers of the United States, of which there are many thousands, large and small, in America; and he has also sent, for presentation to the Emperor, many specimens of the most useful inventions of our country. Therefore, after all these demonstrations of good will, it would be strange if the Japanese government did not seize upon this very favorable occasion to secure a friendly inter- course with a people anxious to prevent, by wise and pru- dent foresight, all causes of future misunderstanding and strife. It will be observed that there is no western nation so in- timately connected with the peace and welfare of Japan as the United States, a part of whose territory lies opposite the Imperial coast, and whose commerce covers the Pacific ocean and Japan seas; not less than five hundred large ships being engaged exclusively in those regions in pursuit of whales, the 390 APPENDIX. crews of many of which suffer for want of water and other refreshments; and it would seem nothing more than common humanity to receive those who may seek shelter in the ports of Japan with kindness and hospitality. The government of China has derived much benefit from its treaty with the United States. The purchase of teas by the Americans during the present year will amount to three million six hundred thousand (3,600,000) taels, and of raw and manufactured silks to nearly three millions (3,000,000) of taels. Nearly thirty thousand subjects of the Emperor of China. have visited America, where they have been kindly received, and permitted by the American laws to engage in whatever occupation best suited them. They have also been allowed to erect temples, and to enjoy in all freedom their religious rites. All have accumulated money, and some have re- turned to China, after a short absence, with sums varying from 300 to 10,000 taels. I have adverted to these facts merely to show the advan- tages that would grow out of such a treaty as I now pro- pose, and to remark again that some amicable arrangement between the two nations has become positively necessary, and for reasons already explained. Indeed I shall not dare to return to the United States without carrying with me satisfactory responses to all the proposals of the President, and I must remain until such are placed in my possession. With the most profound respect, M. C. PERRY, Commander-in-Chief U. S. Naval Forces East India, China, and Japan Seas, and Special Ambassador to Japan. His Highness HAYASHI-DAIGAKI-NO-KAMI, &C., &c. APPENDIX. 391 TREATY. The United States of America and the Empire of Japan, desiring to establish firm, lasting, and sincere friendship between the two nations, have resolved to fix, in a manner clear and positive, by means of a treaty or general conven- tion of peace and amity, the rules which shall in future be mutually observed in the intercourse of their respective countries; for which most desirable object the President of the United States has conferred full powers on his commis- sioner, Matthew Calbraith Perry, special ambassador of the United States to Japan; and the august sovereign of Japan has given similar full powers to his commissioners, Hayashi- Daigaku-Nokami, Ido, Prince of Tsus-Sima, Izawa, Prince of Mimasaki, and Udono, member of the Board of Revenue. And the said commissioners, after having exchanged their said full powers, and duly considered the premises, have agreed to the following articles: ARTICLE I. There shall be a perfect, permanent, and universal peace, and a sincere and cordial amity, between the United States of America on the one part, and the Empire of Japan on the other, and between their people, respectively, without exception of persons or places. ARTICLE II. The port of Simoda, in the principality of Idzu, and the port of Hakodadi, in the principality of Matsmai, are granted by the Japanese as ports for the reception of American ships, where they can be supplied with wood, water, provi- sions, and coal, and other articles their necessities may re- quire, as far as the Japanese have them. The time for 392 APPENDIX. opening the first-named port is immediately on signing this treaty; the last-named port is to be opened immediately after the same day in the ensuing Japanese year. NOTE.-A tariff of prices shall be given by the Japanese officers of the things which they can furnish, payment for which shall be made in gold and silver coin. ARTICLE III. Whatever ships of the United States are thrown or wrecked on the coast of Japan, the Japanese vessels will assist them, and carry their crews to Simoda or Hakodadi, and hand them over to their countrymen appointed to receive them. Whatever articles the shipwrecked men may have preserved shall likewise be restored, and the expenses in- curred in the rescue and support of American and Japanese, who may thus be thrown upon the shores of either nation, are not to be refunded. ARTICLE IV. Those shipwrecked persons and other citizens of the United States shall be free as in other countries, and not subjected to confinement, but shall be amenable to just laws. ARTICLE V. Shipwrecked men, and other citizens of the United States, temporarily living at Simoda and Hakodadi, shall not be subject to such restrictions and confinement as the Dutch and Chinese are at Nagasaki; but shall be free at Simoda to go where they please within the limits of seven Japanese miles (or ri) from a small island in the harbor of Simoda, marked on the accompanying chart, hereto appended; and shall in like manner be free to go where they please at Hako- dadi, within limits to be defined after the visit of the United States squadron to that place. APPENDIX. 393 ARTICLE VI. If there be any other sort of goods wanted, or any busi- ness which shall require to be arranged, there shall be care- ful deliberation between the parties in order to settle such matters. ARTICLE VII. It is agreed that ships of the United States resorting to the ports open to them, shall be permitted to exchange gold and silver coin, and articles of goods, for other articles of goods, under such regulations as shall be temporarily estab- lished by the Japanese government for that purpose. It is stipulated, however, that the ships of the United States shall be permitted to carry away whatever articles they are unwil- ling to exchange. ARTICLE VIII. Wood, water, provisions, coal, and goods required, shall only be procured through the agency of Japanese officers appointed for that purpose, and in no other manner. ARTICLE IX. It is agreed, that if, at any future day, the government of Japan shall grant to any other nation or nations privile- ges which are not herein granted to the United States and the citizens thereof, that the same privileges and advantages shall be granted likewise to the United States and to the citizens thereof without any consultation or delay. ARTICLE X. Ships of the United States shall be permitted to resort to no other ports in Japan but Simoda and Hakodadi, unless in distress or forced by stress of weather. 394 APPENDIX. ARTICLE XI. There shall be appointed by the government of the United States consuls or agents to reside in Simoda at any time after the expiration of eighteen months from the date of the signing of this treaty; provided that either of the two governments deem such arrangement necessary. ARTICLE XII. The present convention, having been concluded and duly signed, shall be obligatory, and faithfully observed by the United States of America and Japan, and by the citizens and subjects of each respective power; and it is to be ratified and approved by the President of the United States, by and with the advice and consent of the Senate thereof, and by the august Sovereign of Japan, and the ratifications shall be exchanged within eighteen months from the date of the signature thereof, or sooner if practicable. In faith whereof, we, the respective plenipotentiaries of the United States of America and the Empire of Japan, aforesaid, have signed and sealed these presents. Done at Kanagawa, this thirty-first day of March, in the year of our Lord Jesus Christ one thousand eight hundred and fifty-four, and of Keyei the seventh year, third month, and third day. APPENDIX. 395 ADDITIONAL REGULATIONS Agreed to between Commodore Matthew C. Perry, special envoy to Japan from the United States of America, and Hayashi Daigaku-no-kami; Ido, Prince of Psus- sima; Izawa, Prince of Mimasaki; Tsudzuki, Prince of Suruga; Udono, member of the board of revenue; Take-no-uchi Sheitaro, and Matsusaki Michitaro, com- missioners of the Emperor of Japan, on behalf of their respective governments. ARTICLE I. The imperial governors of Simoda will place watch sta- tions wherever they deem best, to designate the limits of their jurisdiction; but Americans are at liberty to go through them, unrestricted, within the limits of seven Ja- panese ri, or miles; and those who are found transgressing Japanese laws may be apprehended by the police and taken on board their ships. ARTICLE II. Three landing-places shall be constructed for the boats of merchant ships and whale-ships resorting to this port; one at Simoda, one at Kakizaki, and the third at the brook lying southeast of Centre Island. The citizens of the United States will, of course, treat the Japanese officers with proper respect. ARTICLE III. Americans, when on shore, are not allowed access to military establishments or private houses without leave; but they can enter shops and visit temples as they please. ARTICLE IV. Two temples, the Rioshen at Simoda, and the Yokushen 396 APPENDIX. at Kakizaki, are assigned as resting-places for persons in their walks, until public houses and inns are erected for their convenience. ARTICLE V. Near the Temple Yokushen, at Kakizaki, a burial- ground has been set apart for Americans, where their graves. and tombs shall not be molested. ARTICLE VI. It is stipulated in the treaty of Kanagawa, that coal will be furnished at Hakodadi; but as it is very difficult for the Japanese to supply it at that port, Commodore Perry prom- ises to mention this to his government, in order that the Ja- panese government may be relieved from the obligation of making that port a coal depot. ARTICLE VII. It is agreed that henceforth the Chinese language shall not be employed in official communications between the two governments, except when there is no Dutch interpreter. ARTICLE VIII. A harbor-master and three skilful pilots have been ap- pointed for the port of Simoda. ARTICLE IX. Whenever goods are selected in the shops, they shall be marked with the name of the purchaser and the price agreed upon, and then be sent to the Goyoshi, or government office, where the money is to be paid to Japanese officers, and the articles delivered by them. ARTICLE X. The shooting of birds and animals is generally forbidden APPENDIX. 397 in Japan, and this law is therefore to be observed by all Americans. ARTICLE XI. It is hereby agreed that five Japanese ri, or miles, be the limit allowed to Americans at Hakodadi, and the require- ments contained in Article I. of these Regulations, are here- by made also applicable to that port within that distance. ARTICLE XII. His Majesty the Emperor of Japan is at liberty to ap point whoever he pleases to receive the ratification of the treaty of Kanagawa, and give an acknowledgment on his part. It is agreed that nothing herein contained shall in any way affect or modify the stipulations of the treaty of Kana- gawa, should that be found to be contrary to these regula- tions. In witness whereof, copies of these additional regulations have been signed and sealed in the English and Japanese languages by the respective parties, and a certified transla- tion in the Dutch language, and exchanged by the commis- sioners of the United States and Japan. M. C. PERRY. Commander-in-Chief of the U. S. Naval Forces East India, China, and Japan Seas, and Special Envoy to Japan. SIMODA, JAPAN, June 17, 1854. "COMPACT BETWEEN THE UNITED STATES AND THE KINGDOM OF LEW CHEW, SIGNED AT NAPHA, GREAT LEW CHEW, THE 11TH DAY OF JULY, 1854. "Hereafter, whenever citizens of the United States come to Lew Chew, they shall be treated with great courtesy and friendship. Whatever articles these persons ask for, whether 398 APPENDIX. from the officers or people, which the country can furnish, shall be sold to them; nor shall the authorities interpose any prohibitory regulations to the people selling; and whatever either party may wish to buy shall be exchanged at reason- able prices. "Whenever ships of the United States shall come into any harbor in Lew Chew, they shall be supplied with wood and water at reasonable prices; but if they wish to get other articles they shall be purchasable only at Napha. "If ships of the United States are wrecked on Great Lew Chew, or on islands under the jurisdiction of the royal gov- ernment of Lew Chew, the local authorities shall despatch persons to assist in saving life and property, and preserve what can be brought ashore till the ships of that nation shall come to take away all that may have been saved; and the expenses incurred in rescuing these unfortunate person shall be refunded by the nation they belong to. "Whenever persons from ships of the United States come ashore in Lew Chew they shall be at liberty to ramble where they please, without hindrance, or having officials sent to follow them, or to spy what they do; but if they violently go into houses, or trifle with women, or force people to sell them things, or do other such like illegal acts, they shall be arrested by the local officers, but not maltreated, and shall be reported to the captain of the ship to which they belong, for punishment by him. "At Tumai is a burial-ground for the citizens of the United States, where their graves and tombs shall not be molested. "The government of Lew Chew shall appoint skilful pilots, who shall be on the look-out for ships appearing off the island; and if one is seen coming towards Napha, they shall go out in good boats beyond the reef to conduct her in to a secure anchorage; for which service the captain shall pay APPENDIX. 399 the pilot five dollars, and the same for going out of the har- bor beyond the reefs. "Whenever ships anchor at Napha, the local authorities. shall furnish them with wood at the rate of three thousand six hundred copper cash per thousand catties; and with water at the rate of six hundred copper cash (43 cents) for one thousand catties, or six barrels full, each containing thirty American gallons. "Signed in the English and Chinese languages, by Com- modore Matthew C. Perry, commander-in-chief of the United States naval forces in the East India, China, and Japan scas, and special envoy to Japan, for the United States; and by Sho Fu Fing, superintendent of affairs (Tsu-li-kwan) in Lew Chew, and Ba Rio-si, treasurer of Lew Chew, at Sheudi, for the government of Lew Chew; and copies exchanged this 11th day of July, 1854, or the reign Hien Fung, 4th year, 6th moon, 17th day, at the town hall of Napha.' CORRESPONDENCE RELATIVE TO THE BONIN ISLANDS. Superintendency of TRADE, Hong Kong, December 22, 1853. SIR: With reference to my interview with your excel- lency, respecting your visit to the Bonin islands, and to your proposal that I should address you officially on this subject, I have now the honor to enclose, for your information, copy of a letter and its enclosures from a Mr. Simpson, wherein it is stated that you have purchased ground from a resident there for a coal depot, for the use of the government of the United States of America. After our conversation yesterday your excellency will, I am sure, clearly understand that it is not my desire nor in- tention to dispute your right, or that of any other person, • 400 APPENDIX. to purchase land on the Bonin islands; but as it is generally understood that this group was some time ago taken posses- sion of in the name of the government of Great Britain, I think it desirable to acquaint your excellency therewith, in an official form, that you may, should you see fit, favor me with an explanation of the circumstances referred to by Mr. Simpson. I have the honor to be, sir, your excellency's most obe- dient humble servant, J. G. BONHAM. His Excellency COMMODORE PERRY, U. S. Navy, &c., U. S. Steamship Susquehanna. BEAULEY, INVERNESSHIRE, October 1, 1853. MY LORD: I observe it stated in the public prints that the officer commanding the United States Japan expedition. had touched at the Bonin group-that he had made purchase from a resident there of land for a government coal depot. Permit me to call your lordship's attention to the fact that this group of islands, so advantageously situated for opening up intercourse with Japan, really appertains to Great Britain. Having had some connection with it while acting tempo- rarily for her Majesty's government in the South seas, its importance was impressed upon my mind; and I respectfully bring under your lordship's notice the particulars which will be found narrated in the enclosure herewith. I have, &c., ALEX. SIMPSON. True copy: LORD CLARENDON, &c., &c., &c. H. N. LAY. APPENDIX. 401 Extract from a Pamphlet published by the writer in 1843. THE BONIN ISLANDS. 'WOAHOO, SANDWICH ISLANDS, "December 27, 1842. "This small but interesting, and, from its situation, valu- able group of islands lies in latitude 27° north, longitude 146° east, within five hundred miles' distance from the city of Jedo in Japan. "It appertains to Great Britain, having been discovered by an English whaling vessel, in 1825, and formally taken possession of by Captain Beechey, of her Majesty's ship 'Blossom,' in 1827. There were no aboriginal inhabitants found on the islands, nor any trace that such had ever ex- isted. "Their aggregate extent does not exceed two hundred and fifty square miles; but their geographical position-so near to Japan, that mysterious empire of which the trade will one day be of immense value-gives them a peculiar importance and interest. The climate is excellent, the soil rich and productive, and there is an admirable harbor, well fitted for the port of a commercial city. "The first colonists of this eastern group were two men of the names of Millichamp and Mazarro, who, having ex- pressed to Mr. Charlton, the British consul at the Sandwich Islands, their wish to settle on some uninhabited island in the Pacific ocean, were by him recommended to go to this group, of the discovery and taking possession of which he had been recently informed. They sailed accordingly, in 1830, took with them some Sandwich island natives as la- borers, some live stock and seeds; and landing at port Lloyd, hoisted an English flag which had been given to them by Mr. Charlton. 402 APPENDIX. "The little settlement has been visited by several whaling vessels since that period, and also by a vessel from the Brit- ish China squadron. Mr. Millichamp returned to England, and Mr. Mazarro, anxious to get additional settlers or la- borers to join the infant colony, the whole population of which only numbers about twenty, came to the Sandwich Isl- ands, in the autumn of 1842, in an English whaling vessel. He described the little settlement as flourishing, stated that he had hogs and goats in abundance, and a few cattle; that he grew Indian corn, and many vegetables, and had all kinds of tropical fruits; that, in fact, he could supply fresh pro- visions and vegetables to forty vessels annually. "Mr. Mazarro, who, in virtue of his first arrival, re- ceives the appellation of governor, finds the task of govern- ing even this little colony no easy matter. He applied to me for assistance in this task, and thankfully received the following document, which I drew up for his assistance and moral support: "I hereby certify that Mr. Matthew Mazarro was one of the original leaders of the expedition fitted up from this port, under the protection of Richard Charlton, Esq., her Majesty's consul, to colonize the Bonin islands; and I would intimate to the masters of all whaling vessels touching at that group, that the said Mazarro is a sober and discreet man, and recommend them to support him by all means in their power against the troubles of the peace of that distant settlement, recommending, also, to the settlers to receive Mr. Mazarro as their head, until some officer directly appointed by her Britannic Majesty is placed over them. "ALEX. SIMPSON. "H. B. M. Acting Consul for the Sandwich Islands.' "God save the queen.' APPENDIX. 403 "A small body of enterprising emigrants would find this group a most admirable place for settlement. Its coloniza- tion, indeed, I consider to be a national object. "True copy." "H. N. LAY.” UNITED STATES STEAM-FRIGATE SUSQUEHANNA, Hong Kong, December 23, 1853. SIR Referring to the conversation which I yesterday had the honor of holding with your excellency, as also to your written communication, with accompanying papers, this moment received, I beg to remark that the account given by Mr. Simpson is far from being correct. That gentleman has omitted to name all the white per- sons who embarked in the enterprise to form a settlement upon Peel Island. The names and places of birth of these men may be enumerated as follows: Mateo Mazarro, the leader, a native of Genoa; Na- thaniel Savory, born in Massachusetts, United States; Alden B. Chapin, also a native of Massachusetts; John Millechamp, a British subject; and Charles Johnson, a Dane. - These five men, accompanied by about twenty-five or thirty natives of the Sandwich Islands, male and female, landed at Port Lloyd in the summer of 1830. Of the whites, Nathaniel Savory is the only one remaining on the island. Mazarro, Chapin, and Johnson, are dead, as I am informed; and Millechamp is now residing at Guam, one of the Ladrone group. It would, therefore, appear, that so far as the na- tionality of the settlers could apply to the question of sovereignty, the Americans were as two to one, compared 404 APPENDIX. with the three others, who were subjects of different sove- reigns. Since the first occupation of the island, the early settlers have been occasionally joined by white persons landing from whaling ships, some few of whom have remained; and, at the time of my visit there were, I think, about eight whites in the settlement. These people, after my departure, met together and es- tablished a form of municipal government, electing Nathan- iel Savory their chief magistrate, and James Mottley and Thomas H. Webb, councilmen. With respect to any claim of sovereignty that may be founded upon the right of previous discovery, there is abundant evidence to prove that these islands were known to navigators as early as the middle of the sixteenth century, and were visited by the Japanese in 1675, who gave them the name of "Bune Sima."-(See enclosed ex- tracts.) In 1823, three years before the visit of Captain Beechey, in H. M. ship "Blossom," the group was visited by a Captain Coffin, in the American whaling ship "Tran- sit."* Thus it is plainly shown that the government of her Britannic Majesty cannot claim the sovereignty upon the ground of discovery, and it only remains to determine how far this right may be derived from the ceremony performed by Captain Beechey. But these are matters only to be discussed by our re- spective governments, and I refer to them now merely in ex- planation of our conversation of yesterday. * Since the first publication of this correspondence, it has since been ascertained, that Captain Coffin was an American, but the ship he com- manded was under English colors. APPENDIX. 405 With respect to my purchase of a piece of ground from Nathaniel Savory, though conceiving myself in no way bound to explain such arrangement, I do not hesitate, in all due courtesy, to say, that the transaction was one of a strictly private character. In acquiring the fee of the land, I had not the slightest idea of personal profit, but made the purchase for a legiti mate object, and to withhold the only suitable position in the harbor for a coal depot from the venality of unprincipled speculators, who might otherwise have gained possession of it for purposes of extortion. And now let me assure your excellency, that the course pursued by me has been influenced solely by a settled con- viction of the necessity of securing ports of refuge and sup- plies in the north Pacific for our whaling ships, and a line of mail steamers, which sooner or later must be established between California and China. I have no special instructions from my government upon the subject, and am yet to learn whether my acts will be ap- proved. The recognized sovereignty of these islands would only entail an expense upon the power undertaking their occu- pancy and protection, and whether they may ultimately fall under the American, the English, or a local flag, would be a question of little importance, so long as their ports were open to the hospitable reception of all nations seeking shelter and refreshment. And I may venture further to remark, that it would seem to be the policy, as well of England as the United States, to aid in every possible way in the accomplishment of an arrangement that would fill up the remaining link of the great mail-route of the world, and thus furnish the means of establishing a semi-monthly communication around the entire globe. 406 APPENDIX. With great respect, I have the honor to be, your most obedient servant, M. C. PERRY, Commander-in-Chief U. S. Naval Forces East India, China, and Japan Seas. His Excellency Sir I. GEORGE BONHAM, Bart., H. B. M. Chief Superintendent of Trade, Hong Kong. Extracts from the Journal of Commodore Perry. P. F. Von Siebold, in his "History of Discoveries in the Japan Seas," published in 1852, in Europe and in America, says that the Bonin islands are first mentioned in a map published by the Dutch hydrographer Ortelius, in 1570, and therein reported as first to have been seen in 1543 by Bernardo de Torres, who gave them the name of Maloa- brigo los dos Hermanos. In 1595 these islands were visited by Captain Linchoten, of the Dutch East India Company. Hondius, Dutch hydrographer, notices the same in his map of 1634. In 1639 they were visited by Messrs. Quast & Tasman, who, according to Kempffer, were sent by the Dutch East India Company in search of an island described in the Jap- anese books as books as containing vast quantities of gold and silver. They have been subsequently mentioned as follows: In 1643, by Vries and Schaep; in 1650, by J. Jansonius, Dutch; and in 1680, by Van Keulen, Dutch. From this time up to 1734, no mention is made of them by European hydrographers; in that year they were seen by the Spanish or Portuguese Admiral Ca- brero Bueno, who gave them the name of "Islas del Arzo- bispos." APPENDIX. 407 According to Von Siebold, the Japanese visited the group between the years 1592 and 1595, and they again vis- ited and explored the islands in 1675. Extract from Klaproth. "About the year 1675 the Japanese visited a very large island, one of their barks having been forced there in a storm from the island Fatscio, from which they computed it to be 300 miles distant towards the east. They met with no in- habitants, but found it to be a very pleasant and fruitful country, well supplied with fresh water, and furnished with plenty of plants and trees, particularly the 'arrack' tree, which, however, might give room to conjecture that the island lay rather to the south of Japan than to the east; these trees growing only in hot countries. They called it 'Bune Sima,' and because they found no inhabitants upon it, they marked it with the character of an uninhabited isl- and. On the shores they found an incredible quantity of fish and crabs, some of which were from four to six feet long."* Extract from Klaproth's translation of "San Kokp Tson Ran to Sets." " "The original name of these islands is Ogasa-wara- Sima,' but they are commonly called 'Mow-nin-Sima,' (in Chinese Wu-jin-ton,) or the islands without people, and this * Doubtless mistaking turtle for crabs, green turtle being found in great abundance upon the shores at night, in May and June. M. C. P. 408 APPENDIX. is the name which I have adopted in my work. That of Ogasa-nara-Sima,' or the 'Ogasa-wara' islands, was given to them after the navigator who first visited them, and who prepared a map of them. In the same manner has the southern part of the New World been called 'Megalania,' (Magellan,) who discovered it some two hundred years since." M. C. PERRY. U. S. FLAG-SHIP, POWHATAN. SIMODA, June 12th, 1854. GENTLEMEN: You are hereby appointed to the duty of holding communication with certain Japanese officials dele- gated by the Imperial government, in conformity with the treaty of Kanagawa, to arrange with officers alike delegated by me, the rate of currency and exchange which shall for the present govern the payments to be made by the several ships of the squadron for articles that have been and are to be obtained; also to establish, as far as can be, the price at which coal, per pecul or ton, can be delivered on board at this port of Simoda. It is not to be understood that the rate of currency or exchange which may be agreed upon at this time is to be permanent; on the contrary, it is intended only to answer immediate purposes. Neither you nor myself are sufficiently acquainted with the purity and * *This order was intended to draw from the Japanese Commissioners some information in regard to their currency, and was not intended to be obligatory. APPENDIX. 409 value of the Japanese coins to establish a fixed rate of exchange, even if I had the power to recognize such ar- rangement. It will, however, be very desirable for you to make yourselves acquainted with all the peculiarities of the Japanese currency, and also, if practicable, with the laws appertaining thereto, as the information will be val- uable in facilitating all future negotiations upon the sub- ject. You will, of course, before entering into any agreement which may be considered binding, refer to me. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, M. C. PERRY. Commander-in-Chief U. S. Naval Forces, Purser WM. SPEIDEN, U. S. Navy. Purser J. C. ELDREDGE, U. S. Navy. East India and China Seas. REPORT TO THE COMMODORE ON THE JAPANESE CUR- RENCY. UNITED STATES STEAM-FRIGATE POWATAN, Simoda, June 15, 1854. SIR: The committee appointed by you, in your letter of the 12th instant, to confer with a committee from the Japa- nese commissioners in reference to the rate of exchange and currency between the two nations in the trade at the ports opened, and to settle the price of coal to be delivered at this port, beg leave to report: The Japanese committee, it was soon seen, came to the conference with their minds made up to adhere to the valua- & 18 410 APPENDIX. tion they had already set upon our coins, even if the alterna- tive was the immediate cessation of trade. The basis upon which they made their calculation was the nominal rate at which the government sells bullion when it is purchased from the mint, and which seems also to be that by which the metal is received from the mines. The Japanese have a decimal system of weight, like the Chinese, of catty, tael, mace, can- dareen, and cash, by which articles in general are weighed; but gold and silver are not reckoned above taels. In China a tael of silver in weight and one in currency are the same, for the Chinese have no silver coin; but in Japan, as in European countries, the standard of value weight and that of currency weight differ. We were told that a tael weight of silver has now come to be reckoned, when it is bullion, as equal to 225 caudareens, or 2 taels 2 mace 5 candareens; but when coined, the same amount in weight is held to be worth 6 taels 4 mace. It is at the bullion value that the government has decided to receive our dollar, the same at which they take the silver from the mines; asserting that, as its present die and assay give it no additional value, it is worth no more to them. In proportion to a tael, a dollar weighs 7 mace 1 candareen, which, at the rates of bullion value, makes it worth 1 tael 6 mace, or 1,600 cash. Thus the Japanese government will make profit of 663 per cent. on every dollar paid them of full weight, with the trifling deduction of the expense of re-coining it. The injustice of this arrange- ment was shown, and the propriety of paying to the seller himself the coin we gave at this depreciated rate urged, but in vain. 5 For gold the rate is more, as the disparity between the value of bullion and that of coin, among the Japanese, is not so great. A tael weight of gold is valued at 19 taels in currency, and a mace at 1 tael 9 mace. The gold dollar weighs almost 5 candareens, but the Japanese have reckoned APPENDIX. 411 it as the twentieth part of a $20 piece, which they give as 8 mace 8 cadareens; and, consequently, the dollar is only 4 candareens 4 cash. This weight brings the gold dollar, when compared with the tael of bullion gold worth 19 taels, to be worth 836 cash, and the $20 piece to be worth 16,720 cash, or 16 taels 7 mace 2 candareens. This, when converted into a silver value, makes a gold dollar worth 52 cents, and a $20 piece worth $10 45, at which the Japanese proposed to take them. But this valuation of the gold dollar at 52 cents, when reckoned at 836 cash, its assessed value by the Japa- nese government, suffers the same depreciation as our silver; and its real value, when compared with the inflated currency in use among the people, is only about 17 cents. Conse- quently, by this estimate, gold becomes 50 per cent. worse for us to pay in than silver. The currency value of a gold dollar, taking the ichibu as of equal purity, and comparing them weight for weight, is only 1,045 cash, or nearly 22 cents in silver; so that the actual depreciation on the part of the Japanese is not so great as silver-being for the two metals, when weighed with each other, for silver as 100 to 331, and for gold as 22 to 17. The elements of this comparison are not quite certain, and therefore its results are somewhat doubtful; but the extraordinary discrepancy of both metals, compared with our coins and with their own copper coins, shows how the government has inflated the whole monetary system in order to benefit itself. The parties could come to no agreement, as we declined to consent to the proposals of the Japanese, who were de- cided to adhere to their valuation of a silver dollar at 1 tael 6 mace, or 1,600 cash; neither would they consent to do justly by us in relation to the moneys paid them at this place before our departure for Hakodadi, at the rate of only 1 tael 2 mace, or 1,200 cash, to the dollar, by which they had made a profit. of 75 per cent. on each dollar, stating that the money paid them 4 412 APPENDIX. at this rate had passed out of their hands; and, moreover, that the prices placed upon the articles furnished had been charged at reduced prices with reference to the low value placed upon the dollar. For the amount due and unsettled, for supplies received at Yoku-hama, and on account of which Purser Eldredge paid Moryama Yenoske, Imperial interpreter, $350 in gold and silver, that they might be assayed and tested at Yedo, they consent to receive the dollar at the valuation now placed on them—that is, at the rate of 1,600 cash for the silver dollar. We carefully investigated the price of the coal to be de- livered to vessels in this port. We learn that 10,000 catties or 100 piculs have arrived; and this, at the rate of 1,680 catties to a ton of 2,240 pounds, or 164 piculs, costs 262 taels 6 mace 5 candareens 3 cash, or $164 16; making the rate to be $27 91 per ton. The Japanese state that the price of coal would be considerably reduced as the demand for it increased, and their facilities for mining became more perfect. In conclusion, we take pleasure in expressing our thanks to Messrs. Williams and Portman, whose services as interpreters were indispensable, and from whom we received important aid in our investigations. We have the honor to be respectfully, your obedient servants, WILLIAM SPEIDEN, Purser U. S. Navy. J. C. ELDREDGE, Commodore M. C. PERRY, Purser U. S. Navy. Commander-in-chief U. S. Naval Forces in the East India and China Seas. APPENDIX. 413 JAPANESE GAME OF SHO-HO-YÉ, ANALOGOUS TO OUR GAME OF CHESS. THIS game is played by two persons, with forty pieces, (twenty on either side,) and upon a chequer board of eighty one squares, (nine upon each side.) The board is of one uniform color, though the squares might be colored, as with us, for the sake of convenience. The pieces are also of one uniform color, as they are used (at pleasure,) by either party, as his own, after being captured from the adversary. They are of various sizes, are long and wedge-shaped, being at the same time sharpened from side to side, in front, and the names of each piece are inscribed upon it, both the original, and the one assumed, upon being reversed or turned over, (as below.) Each player knows his men, or pieces, by their pointed and thin end being always forward or from him. But they would be more readily distinguished if the back parts of all were painted with some decided and striking color, as that part of his own men is seen by each player only-and if the fronts of all the men were painted of some other color, as that part of the adversary's pieces is seen by either player only. They are laid flat upon the board, (front forward,) and thus their names are plainly visible. They capture, as in chess, by occupying the places of the captured pieces. The King, Oho-shio,being the chief piece, cannot remain in check, and when checkmated, the game is lost. The pieces are named, and are placed upon the board, as follows:- Oho-shio, (King,) centre square, first row. Kin-shio, (Gold, or chief councillor,) upon first row, and one on either side of Oho-shio. Gin-shio, (Silver, or sub-councillor,) upon first row, and one on each square, next outside Kin-shio. 414 APPENDIX. Kiema, (Flying-horse,) upon first row, and one on each square, next outside Gin-shio. Kio-shia, (Fragrant chariot,) one upon each corner square, first row. Hishia, (Flying chariot,) on second square, second row, right side of the board. Kakuko, (The horn,) on second square, second row, left side of the board. row. Ho-hei, (The soldiery,) on all the nine squares of the third The moves and powers of the pieces are as below, only noting, that in capturing, there is no deviation from them, as with us, in the case of pawns. Oho-shio moves and takes on one square in any direction. Kin-shio, as the Oho-shio, except that he cannot move diagonally backward. Neither of the above are ever reversed or acquire different powers; but all the pieces below may be reversed, (at the option of the player,) when they move to or from any square, in any of the adversary's three first rows, and there- by they acquire different powers as well as different names. Gin-shio moves and takes as the Oho-shio, except that he cannot move directly on either side, or directly back- ward. When reversed, or turned over, he becomes a Gin- Nari-Kin, and acquires all the powers (and those alone) of the Kin-shio. Kiema has the move of our knight, except that he is strictly confined to two squares forward and one laterally, and can in no case make more than four moves as a Kiema. When reversed he becomes a Kiema-Nari-Kin, with all the powers (and those alone) of the Kin-shio. Kioshia, moves directly forward only, but that may be any number of steps. He may be reversed upon either of the first three rows of the adversary, and then becomes a APPENDIX. 415 Kioshia-Nari-Kin, with all the powers (and those alone) of the Kin-shio. Hishia has the entire powers of our castle, and when reversed, he assumes the name of Rioho, (the dragon,) and acquires, in addition to his former moves, all those of the Oho-shio. Kakuko has the entire powers of our bishop, and when reversed, he assumes the name of Riome, (the dragoness,) and acquires, in addition to his former moves, all those of the Oho-shio. Ho moves forward one step only at a time, and may be reversed upon either of the first three rows of the adversary; when so reversed, he becomes a Ho-Nari-Kin, and acquires all the powers of the Kin-shio. Besides the preceding moves and powers, any piece which has been taken may be replaced upon the board, at the dis- cretion of the captor, as follows, viz.: when it is his move, instead of moving one of his men, he can replace any one of the captured pieces upon any unoccupied square whatever, observing to keep that side up to which it was entitled ori- ginally; but it may be reversed at any move thereafter, if to or from any square in the before-mentioned three first rows of the adversary, and observing further, that he cannot re- place a Ho, (or soldier,) on any column upon which there is already one of his own, i. e., he cannot double a Ho, (or soldier.) It may be further stated, that no piece can pass over the head of any other piece in its move, except the Kiema. AUG 2 1918 UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN BOUND FEB 26 1947 UNIV. OF MICH. LIBRARY 3 9015 02011 5278