-gr,*;, *:', #, , ^ 3 * J-4--/s. ..., f`s 7 . N- IMPRACTICABILITY A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE SHIPs, IMPARTIALLY CONSIDERED. LONDON : 1824. 6 *O . Sº 2 84 ho PREFA CE. BEING what is termed “a sea-faring man,” I am frequently asked questions concerning the North- West Passage, which, perhaps, would puzzle much wiser heads to answer; I have therefore been induced to read a little of what has been - published on the subject, especially within the last seven or eight years, by those, who are sup- posed to have considered it most, or have detailed the results of their experience in the Arctic re- gions. I was the more disposed to amuse myself in this way, from a desire to judge for myself if possible, why all former adventurers, as well as Captains Ross, Buchan, and Parry, have failed in an enter- prise, which the Quarterly Review has repre- sented as “of no difficult execution,” and merely “the business of three months out and home;” and also from seeing it mentioned in the public papers that another attempt is to be made this year, by Captains Parry and Hoppner, in the Fury and Hecla, by way of Lancaster Sound, and iv Prince Regent's Inlet, along the northern shores of America. Without pretending to give any decided opi- nion of my own, on this “interesting question,” I am free to say, that the facts stated, and (of course) believed by the authors from whom I have quoted, and who have advocated the practicability as well as the existence of a North-West passage, appear to me to show its impracticability for ships, even if there be one for water and fish (for the river Thames, if frozen over, would still be a river, but unnavigable), and to render its very existence more doubtful than ever. Whether, or not, the inferences I have drawn from the DATA furnished chiefly, if not entirely, by those advocates themselves, be fair and legiti- mate, I leave to the decision of those unbiassed (particularly nautical) readers, who are most com- petent to form a correct judgment on and dis- posed to give their attention to such a subject. SCRUTATOR. London, 25th March, 1824. “A, PLAIN MATTER-of-FACT MAN wishes For DATA RAther than WILD HYPOTHEses.” ... Quart. Rev. xxv.111, 398. AFTER a lapse of about twenty-six years, the ques- tion of the Existence, as well as the Practicability, of a Passage for ships, from the Atlantic to the Pacific, was revived; and the attention of the public excited in the year 1817, by the writer of an article headed “Lord Selkirk, and the North-West Passage,” in No. 31. of “a popular critical Journal,” Having introduced the latter subject by an examination into the authenticity of “Voyage de la Mer Glaciale; par le Capitaine Laurent Ferrer Maldonado, l'aa 1588,” the Reviewer says, “Destitute, as we consider the relation of Maldonado to be, both of veracity and authenticity, we are by no means inclined to suppose that such a voyage, as it describes, is impracticable. We firmly believe, on the contrary, that a navigable passage does erist, and may be of no difficult éxecution. Why then, it may be asked, have all the attempts made at different times, from both sides the continent of America, failed 7–Because, not one of them was ever made near that part of the coast of America round which, it is most likely, the passage would lead into the Frozen or Northern Ocean. The distance between Baffin's Sea and Behring's Strait, is not Data. A. 2 more than 1200 miles. Could we only be certain that Hearne and Mackenzie actually arrived at the shore of the Northern Ocean, the eristence of a passage would amount, nearly to a certainty. The solution of this im- portant problem is the business of three months out and home. ' The space to be examined, at the very utmost, is from the 67th to the 71st parallels, or 4° of lati- tude 1 ! If the continent of America shall be found to terminate, as is most likely, about the 70° of latitude, or even below it, we have little doubt of a free and practi. cable passage round it, for seven or eight months in every year; and we are much mistaken if the North-west Com- pany would not derive immediate and incalculable ad- vantages from a passage of three months to their estab- lishments on Columbia river, instead of the circuitous voyage of six or seven months round Cape Hern; to say nothing of the benefit which might be derived from taking their cargoes of furs and peltry for the China market at Mackenzie's and Copper-minerivers, to which the northern Indians would be too happy to bring them, if protected by European establishments at these, or other places, from their enemies the Esquimaux.” . . . What flattering prospects are here held forth to the North-west Company of “incaleulable advantages,” and to the “northern Indians” of being made even “too happy!!” Nothing like a fear is expressed, of obstacles to be met with and surmounted. On the contrary, all is, plain sailing through “a free and practicable passage for; seven or eight months in every year.” The language of the foregoing extracts is calculated to raise, not only the hopes, but the expectations of the public, as high as those which the writer himself no doubt in- dulged in, as to the success of any future attempt; pro- vided it should be made where he recommends, near the 3 north-east part of America. He seems, however, to have been aware of there being some little difficulty in gett ting hold of that part of America, for he informs/usta little further on, at page 169, that, “Hitherto, ritost of our adventurers have worked their way through Hud- son's Strait, which is generally choked up with ice; then standing to the northward, they have had to con- tend with ice drifting to the southward, with contrary winds and currents. These inconveniences,” he adds, “would be obviated by standing first to the latitudes of 71° or 72°, and from thence southerly and westerly, till they saw the north-east coast of America, which would go far to complete the discovery, or, till they reached Hudson's Bay, which would decide the question in the negative.” Here, in the most direct terms, this reviewer records his disapprobation (and with good reason) of a route through Hudson's Strait and Bay, in quest of the northaeast part of America; may his belief, at the time he wrote, that No passage could be found out of Hud- son's Bay, (and consequently even through the Welcome or Repulse Bay) into the Polar sea. Inasmuch as: he says, that if the more northerly route he recommends, should (by a southerly and westerly deviation after- wards) lead any future adventurer into Hudson's Buy, That “would decide the question in the negative.” "And yet in the same article, at page 162, this reviewer would seem to doubt the veracity of Middleton; “who,” he informs us, “looked into (he says, sailed round,) what he (Middleton) was pleased to call Repulse Bay.’” It is indeed very amusing to compare some of the notions of this anonymous writer, in different numbers'of this “ popular critical journal,” on points connected with the question of a north-west passage. For instance, in this Number 31, at page 170; he says—“It is a com- 4 mon, but we believe an erroneous opinion, that the tem- peratºre of etir elimate has regularly been diminishing, and that it is owing to the ice hawing permanently, fixed itself to the shores of Greenland, which in consequence, froñi being once a flourishing colony of Denmark, is now become utinhabitable and unapproachable. owe doubt both the fact and the inference. It is not the cli- mate that has altered, but we who feel it more severe as we advance in years; the registers of the absolute de- gree of temperature, as measured by the thermometer, do not warrant any such conclusion ; and more attempts than one to land on the coast of Greenland must be made, before we can give credit to its being bound up in eternal ice—which is known to shift about with every gale of wind, to be drifted by currents, and to crumble and consume below the surface of the water.” . . . Now, this is all very probable, and perhaps would not have been questioned by any body, but the reviewer himself. He, however, having a favourite hypothesis to maintain, which he seems to have founded., on imaginary assumptions, at variance with each other; rather than on known facts and experience, tells us quite a dif- ferent thing in No. 35, of the Quarterly Review, in an article written preparatory to the fitting out of the two expeditions in the beginaing of the following year 1818; as it was very necessary to clear away (at least by pen and ink) as much as possible of the ice, which some igno- rant folks might suppose would otherwise impede their progress threugh the Polar regions, towards. Behring's Strait; he therefore admits, in the first place, “that, for thé last four-hundred years; an extensive portion of the eastern eoast of Old Greenland has been shut up, by an impenetrable barrier of ice, and with it the ill-fated Nor- wegian or Danish colonies; and who were thus cut off at 5 once from all communication with the mother-coun- try;”—that “ various attempts have been made, from time to time, to approach this coast, but in vain; the ice being every where impervious ; and that all hope being at length abandoned, that part of this extensive tract of land, which faces the east, took the appropriate name of lost Greenland. The event to which we have alluded is the disappearance of the whole, or greater part of this barrier of ice. How the Danes can now pretend to doubt, as one of their writers affects to do, whether there ever were a colony on the eastern side is, to us, quite inevplicable, unless it be to palliate their negligence at the first approach of the ice, and their want of humanity since.” In short, the reviewer has, now, no doubt of this extraordinary fact, for nothing could have happened so opportunely ; and he therefore adduces the authority of many persons in various places to prove it, and even assigns as “the most probable cause, for the sudden departure of all this ice, its having broken loose by its own weight !!” Having thus “established beyond any doubt, the fact of the disappearance of the ice,” he asks, whether any, and what advantages may arise out of an event which, for the first time has occurred, at least to so great an extent, during the last four hundred years 1 and answers, first, The influence which the removal of so large a body of ice may have on our own climate. 2ndly. The opportunity it affords of enquiring into the fate of the long-lost colony on the eastern coast of Old Greenland. 3rdly. The facility it offers, of correcting the very defective geography of the Arctic regions in our western hemisphere, and of attempting the circumnavigation of Old Greenland, a direct passage over the Pole, and 6 the more circuitous one along the northern coast of America into the Pacific. He then takes pains to prove deterioration of climate to have taken place in Iceland, Switzerland and Pennsylvania, and that “it must be equally clear therefore, that our own climate, though in a less degree, must have been affected by this vast accumu- lation of Ice on the coast of Greenland:” and gives “reasons for believing, that previously to the fifteenth century England enjoyed a warmer summer climate than since that period / I’’ * - The reviewer having, as we have seen in a former number, expressed his belief of the practicability, as well as the existence, of a passage for ships from the Atlantic to the Pacific through Behring's Strait; he proceeds to explain his grounds for that belief. 1st. He asserts the existence of “a perpetual current setting down from the northward, (sometimes with a velocity of four or even five miles an hour) along the eastern coast of America and the western shores of Old Greenland;’ and thereon assumes “an uninterrupted communication, between Davis Strait and the Great Polar Basin,” the consequent insularity of Old Green- land, and the non-existence of Baffin's Bay. 2ndly, That vast quantities of drift wood were floated down by this current from the northward, consisting of trees the produce of Asia and America (some, perhaps, through Behring's Strait), by means of his “circum- volving current,” between the Pacific and the Atlantic, “round the north coast of America.” As these grounds were not satisfactory, and much other matter contained in this article appeared rather visionary, and calculated to raise the public expectation of success too high, by annihilating probable, or at least possible dif- ficulties, an anonymous writer was induced to publish 7 a reply to it in the Naval Chronicle for the móñth of March, 1818, just before the expeditions såſtěd,'indér Captains Ross and Buchan. In extracting it hérè, I shan adduce such ficts and experiments, madekābwn to us by those who have since written on the subject, or visited the Arctic regions, as tend to prove;6; dis- prove, the opinions of either of these writers. ' ' " ' The letter of Phoca, in the Naval Chronicle, is dated Hull, 27th Feb. 1818. I shall be excused for making copious extracts from it; particularly as it happened to be inserted in a work of very limited circulation at the titue; and the correctness of many of his opinions has been practically proved, so far, by the failure of every expedition by sea, since he wrote this letter. He says, “The appearance of an article in the Quâr- terly Review, for this month, on the subject of the ex- petitions; now fitting out, to explore the Arctic regions, has led me to consider some of the matters therein stated; and to enquire into the solidity of some of the writer's motions on this interesting topic.” After a few prefiminary ºbservations on the fact of the late reported disappearáñce of ice, from the eastern coast of Old Greenland, and its supposed connexion with the phae- homeña of Magnetism, Electricity, and the Aurora Borealis, he proceeds: “The removal of this ice being ‘Côtemporaneous with the period when the western de- chilation of the magnetic needle became stationary, is certainly ‘a remarkable coincidence.’ At all events, in whatever way the supposed connexion may be, between the removal of the ice, and these phændiéna, it seems not unfair to infer, that the departure of'Whe immense mountains and fields of ice which for soián centuries have covered the Arctic seas, may have had some effect in stopping the career of the western decli- 8 nation of the needle.” But we may as fairly draw the same inference from a similar cause, though probably of much less extent; and all we can know, till the whole of the Avctic Regions is explored, viz. the departure of, perhaps, a very small portion only, of those “immense mountains and fields of ice, which had collected in the vicinity of Greenland. What may still remain in the Arctic seas, we are yet to learn; and concerning which, like every thing else, where facts and local experience are wanting, our opinions can only be formed on fixed and received principles. The fact, however, of the dis- appearance of some large mountains and fields of ice from part of the Arctic regions, being admitted, the Quar- terly Reviewer's enquiry as to its supposed influence on our climate, is thus treated : “On the benefits we should derive from an amelioration of our climate, there can be but one opinion. That our Summer sea- sons have been colder than usual, in the latter years, for instance, and from the causes he assigns, few will doubt. But the effect produced may not continue. Por though the principal cause of the chilliness of our climate, compared with what it appears to have been centuries ago, may be removed for the present, yet, the grand primary cause which produced the ice, whose approximation deteriorated oth climate, it is presumed will continue to operate; and what has happened by the established general law of nature, may happen again. Therefore, though it may be hoped, it certainly would be “unreasonable to presume,” that, merely on account of the present accidental removal of some portion of ice, “our Summer climate (and Winter too, when the wind blows from the western quarter) may henceforth improve. Though no doubt it will improve, if the ice does not again collect in the place from whence it 9 has lately been dislodged. But surely we have more reason to fear it may, because it has done so before, than to presume we shall ‘henceforth’ have no more huge icebergs drifting down to the southward in the wind's eye of our island, and that therefore our climate may improve. For whilst the universe continues to be go- verned by the unerring and unalterable laws of God, mountains and fields of ice will doubtless continue to be formed in the Polar regions of the north; and when- ever the winters are successively severe there, they must accumulate, and no doubt find their way to the southward, as they have done. “With respect to ‘the opportunity which the local disappearance of the ice affords, of enquiring into the fate of the long lost colony, on the eastern coast of Old Greenland, it must be admitted to be favorable. And should the east coast of Greenland continue to be as free from ice as it is said to have been last year, it is probable the object may be attained.’—Great part of this coast has since been visited and laid down by Mr. Scoresby," and also by Captain Sabine in His Majesty's ship Griper. “The reviewer's third object is, “the facility the remo- val of the ice offers, of correcting the very defective geography of the Arctic regions in our western hemi- sphere; of attempting the circumnavigation of Old Greenland—a direct passage over the Pole—and the more circuitous one along the northern coast of Ame- rica, into the Pacific.’ Certainly, “any, event that tends to encourage the attempt to amend the very defective 'Mr. Scoresby has published an account of his observations on this coast; which has also since been visited by Captain Sabine in His Majesty's ship the Griper. Data. B |0 geography of the Arctic regions, more especially on the side of America, may be hailed as an important, occurs rençºn. But...let as sea, whether what may be op's a, ºil, and very partial, removal of ice collected in the vicinity of Greenland, islikely to facilitate more, than an examination of its eastern coast, or at most its cirr cumnavigation; and perhaps, of exploring the coast of America, some distance to the north-west of Cum. berland Island, if not to its north-east extremity. It is very true that several circumstances may be adduced in support of the opinion, that Greenland is either an island, or an archipelago of islands, and none stronger than the ‘perpetual current stated to set down to the squthward along the eastern.coast of America, and the western shores of Greenland.’, , , y . . . . . “But this current, though affording. ‘a strong pre: sumption' that ‘between Davis' Straits and the great Polar basin,' there is some communication, surely if does not authorise us to presume, that thers, is an “uninterrupted communication.' On... the contrary, it seems probable that there; must he islands or shoals,has tween the north-west coast of Greenland and the north- east coast of America, among which small masses of ice, trees, and whales too, as well as current, may find passage down Davis' Straits from the “Polar basin; but which may be, and probably are, so blocked up, gene- rally, by mountains and large fields of ice, as to present an impassable barrier for Ships. On account of this cur- ...; it exist,) it is certainly fair to presume that the northern part of Davis' Straits is mis-named in the charts as ‘a Bay; for, if it were one, “it would be diffi- cult to explain how a current that runs to the southward perpetually (as we are told), and sometimes with a s t ; : * , I velocity of four or five miles an hour, could originate in the bottom of it!” - , . '. I must observe here that the reviewer's head seems to have been so full of the ideal belief of an “ open sea to the northward of Davis' Straits, and extending all the way to Behring's Straits, so as to allow of a communica- tion, free and uninterrupted for ships between the Atlan- tic and Pacific,” as well as for his imaginary circumvolv- ing current, that he never once allowed a fact to enter, which would at once have destroyed that belief–If he had examined thelog-books of some of the Davis’ Straits whale-ships, he would have discovered, that for days together, when laying to, under little or no canvas, their bearings of points on the west coast of Greenland, do not alter perhaps a point of the compass either way; and therefore that no such ertraordinary current could possibly exist.' This simple fact must have struck Pho- ca's mind as a seaman at once; and though it seems to have made him sceptical, he does not venture to contra- dict the reviewer positively, but merely reserves himself for further proof, and pursues his subject with caution.— “If", says he, “there is “an uninterrupted communica- tion’, that is, if there is no land, no shoals in the whole space between Greenland and America, it appears very probable that greater quantities of ice would pass through that space with a current of such velocity, and less find its way round Greenland. “But we must first endeavor to decide, as well as we can, how, and where the ice in the Polar regions is formed ; in what direction it is probably impelled by winds and currents; how these winds probably * Its non-existence has been since proved by Captains Ross and Parry. J2 prevail in summer and winter; and how the current. probably sets underneath as well as at the surface of the water. For notwithstanding the writer of the article 1 am examining, apprehends “it will be found, that the: currents of the ocean are entirely superficial, where no. land intervenes ;’ and though he says, “it would be: difficult to explain the perpetual egress of a current from the Polar basin into the Atlantic, without admitt- ing a supply through the only remaining opening. (Behring's Straits,) into that basin to supply the demand, of the current,” I yet firmly believe that there must be a continual underflow of water in the ocean, as well as su- perficial currents; otherwise ‘that universal motion of the great deep' which he and all must allow, cannot sa- tisfactorily be accounted for. How, then, it may be asked, are these lower currents to be accounted for The question is much easier to be put, than solved to the satisfaction of others. But I will endeavor to explain the ideas I have on the subject, as well as I can; and that too with all the diffidence of one, who knows that though conjectures may perhaps be well founded, their truth depends on experiment. . . . “The conjectures I venture to offer are, however, founded on the known and acknowleged properties of Heat and cold. Heat is known to be the general cause of the expansion of air and water, and cold the cause of compression.—Heat rarefies, and cold condenses. The influence of the sun in rarefying the atmosphere to the greatest degree, between the tropics, together with the earth's rotation on its axis, from west to east, would produce a constant wind from east to west all round the globe, if no land intervened; because, the points of greatest rarefaction being successively westward; and those eastward of each other, parting successively, as 13 the sun sets in their horizons, with part of the heatre. ceived in his passage over them, the motion of theat- mosphere nearest the surface of the water must neees. sarily be from east to west, following the apparent mºr, tion of the sun. . We find this preved by fact, on those purtions of the globe where the general-law.is not ob- structed by causes of an opposite nature, arising,fran: tervene influence t viz., in the Pacific Ocean; between: America and the east coast of New Holland, and also in the open sea between Africa and America. The oentral-medium line of greatest rarefaction, is the equa- tor; but according to the sun's declination, north; or, sºuth, it will be more to the northward or southward. The air thus rarefied in the lower regions, of the atmo- sphere surrounding the earth, and comprised within the kimits of the sun's path between the tropics, must, be: continually ascending into the higher, and thence, north, of the equator, advancing towards the north pole; and south of the line, towards the south pole; till someº. where, in its passage, it acquires that degree of con- densation by cold, which compels it again to return, in the lower strata, to the point of greatest rarefaction, to undergo the same process. * * - “This seems to be the grand general law of nature's operation on the atmosphere, that by “universal imad- tion, it may be preserved in a state of purity.’” . . . . . “Let us now enquire, whether this same haw is not equally applicable to that universal motion of the great deep, which mast be equally necessary, to its purity, and which we may therefore certainly presumae...dees * This counter-flux from the equator to the poles, and vice ver a. is demonstrated by Mr. Daniel in his Meteorological Essays, published in 1823, who explains why, “This interchange of the pºlid equatorial atmospheres must tend to an equalisation of temperature.” 14 take place on some general principle. We indeed, al- ready know, that the waters of the Pacific Ocean, and of the Atlantic, between the tropics, where least ob- structed by land, move at and near the surface, in a si- milar direction, nearly and generally, to that of the wind.—When obstructed by lands, they take the vari- ous turnings and windings, which the forms and tren- dings of those lands, and other local causes, impose on them. =. - “If it be allowed, ‘that the influence of the sun, in rarefying the atmosphere to the greatest degree, between the tropics, together with the earth's rotation on its axis from west to east, would produce (if no land interven- ed) a constant wind from east to west,' may we not suppose, if the same causes operate similarly, but proportionally, on the waters of the ocean, that they must produce a similar effect, and oblige them to take a like direction—that is, from east to west, at and near the surface all round the globe, within the limits of the sun's declination.”—lf this general effect, then, be admitted, on the ground it rests, we may presume, that if there were a passage through the Isthmus of Darien for the immense body of water, which continually flows from east to west into the Caribbean Sea and Gulf of Mexico, what is called the gulf-stream would no longer exist. And as it seems probable, that the sur- face of the water must be somewhat higher' on the eastern side of America thereabouts, than on the other, owing to the land's obstruction to the natural course of the great equinoctial current, and the necessity imposed " From theobservations made by Humboldt at the mouth of the Rio Seca in the Atlantic, and on the coast of the South Sea, it appears “there is a difference of level between the two seas, not exceeding 6 or 7; metres, or about 19 or 22 feet,” - 15 on it, to find vent through the Gulf of Florida, into the Atlantic ; it is not unreasonable to conclude, that if this accumulation of water was at liberty to flow through the Continent of America, into the Pacific Ocean, the surface of the sea, on this side (next the Atlantic) would be lower than it now is ; so that parts of land, new under water, would be exposed to view. This effect would, however, be injurious to commerce with the West Indies; for it would render the homeward-bound passage more difficult. Instead of a constant weather current, to assist ships, it is pretty certain there would be a lee one from the north-east, along the east coast of Florida; and its influence would most proba- bly be felt, far up to the north-east; from whence the current of colder water would flow, nearer the surface than it now can, covered superficially as it is by the warmer gulf-stream. The high degree of temperature which this great body of water acquires, by the sun's constant action upon it, being slowly reduced, during its propelled progress to the north-east, it is probable, that it may advance even beyond the banks of Newfound- land, before it is reduced to the colder temperature of the fluid beneath it, which must be flowing from the north- ern regions of condensation towards the points of great- est rarefaction and evaporation between the tropics, to supply the place of that, which the heat is as constantly evaporating and rarefying ; and so sending back in the upper strata of the atmosphere, to the colder regions,— The gulf-stream, thus propelled by lateral pressure, up to- wards the banks of Newfoundland, is seldom found te affect a ship, beyond those banks; at the same time, it is possible, that some of it may advance farther to the northward, before that reduction is effected in its tem- perature, which gives it a tendency to the southward. 16 For, many articles, the produce of tropical climes, and some, known to have been from the West Indies, have been cast ashore on the coasts of Europe. Some of these places being situated to the N.E. of Newfound- land, it is difficult to believe that these articles could have been driven thither by the winds, and the swell of the sea only. For these, prevailing nearly as much from N.W. as S.W., would give them about an east direc- tion. And if they were immersed sufficiently to feel the influence of the great underflow of cold fluid, from the north, which brings the icebergs down to 39°º or 40° of latitude, they would move in an east-southerly di- rection. It seems therefore reasonable to suppose, that there may still be the remains of a northerly movement of water at, and very near the surface, to cause bodies floating there to make a course, as some have done, to the northward of even E.N.E. from Newfoundland. The great body of the gulf-stream is, however, much reduced in temperature about the banks of Newfound- land; and in proportion as it feels the cold of the great underflow from the north, it is turned gradually to the eastward and southward, past the Western Islands. Whether any part of it reaches the coast of England, France, Portugal, or Spain, is a point much disputed. It is possible, however, that it may ; diverging, as it appears to do, to the eastward, and southward. Some of the fluid that composed it may find its way to the northward of Cape Finisterre, and add something to the ‘great body of water which the western swell heaves into the Bay of Biscay ; and proceeding to the north- ward, along the coast of France, sets over from Ushant beyond Cape Clear; till meeting with a fluid below, of a colder degree than its own, it perhaps gradually joins the Polar stream to thesouthward, aceording to its depth 17 , and temperature. Some of the waters of the gulfstreath, it is possible (though.hardly that), may assist in supply- wing the water expended by evaporation in the Mediter- ranean, whose surface, therefore, it is presumed, must be lower-than that of the Atlantic, as the constant current setting into it seems to prove. Some philosophers, indeed; suppose that the quantity of water, continually admitted through the gut of Gibraltar into the Mediter- ranean, is greater than can be expended by avapora- tion; and that, therefore, there must be a counter current setting out, underneath. To establish this opinion, it seems necessary, first, to prove that the temperature of the Mediterranean is lower generally than. that of the “Atlantic. For if it be higher (as is most probable), the surplus, if there were any, and allowing their surfaces to cbe equal” (and Phoca should have added, their speciſc gravities the same), “would; I presume, run out at the sur- face, and the supply be received in underneath, which is contrary to fact. Though I have supposed it barely possible that some of the gulf stream may cross the At- lenticwiby no means say that it is so. On the contrary, ..it is littleofelt by ships, far to the eastward of the ułaºtº but in the vicinity of thoseislands, the south- bast portion of it gradually turns to the southward, and as it advances in that direction, soon feeling the impulsejagain of the grand equinoctial current, is com- pelled to partake of its western motion: thus forming ºf sort of circulareddy, which may be comprised between the latitude of about 18% of 19% North, and the parallel of the Western Islands; and from about the longitude of 89°ita:43°West. Within these limits, the gulfweed, is found, floating on the surfaee, where I suppose it origi- nates, lives its appointed time, and decays, like any other vegetable production k and I believe it, iterarely Data. C 18 or never met with beyond these limits. Though I have admitted the bare possibility, that some df the gif stream may enter the strait of Gibfaltar, I cannot agree with the writer of the article in the Quarterly Review, when he says (speaking, of the gulfstream), that it is of sufficient force and quantity to make-ite influence be felt in the distant ‘Strait of Gibraltar.”Thus, implying (if I understand him right), that this ‘force and qualitity' of the gulf stream are primary causes of the cºnstant current into the strait. . . On the contrary, thinkingmas I do, that the causes of this constant flow of wateri into the Mediterranean are of a purely kcal mature; eonnects ed exclusively with that sea; I therefore think it mºst probable that if the great equinoctial currentflowed (§§ presumeitwould, werethereasufficient passage) through the Continent of America, into the Pacific jºahdioonse, quently annihilated the present gulfstream, therewoºd still be the very same flow of water into the Méditéſ; ranean as there is now, as long as the aun's ſºrº, tinued, and the localities exclusively belonging #03bāţ sea remained the same. In short; I am of opiniół: that the waters of the Atlantic (approximaté to the Strait of Gibraltar) feel, the influence of purely Mediterania, . . • 3 * * • ' , , '9"? causes; and that neither ‘the force' hôr ‘quantity...ºf the gulfstream have any effect whatever, in causing:the current that runs into the Mediterranean, Jºltºisławell known, by experience, that this current is strengest with easterly gales; in the hottest weather, with wilitat the same time; and is diminished during the prevalents of westerly: winds, and is weaker in winterºgenerally than'ih sufmmer." But to returnº-Therwindsiand sure 3 t ' ' ' ' . . . . . . . " - ... . . . . . . . . . . . . . .''. i woºd's? "The opinions of men of science are still divided asto the cause of the cºstant curreht which runs into the Mediterranean, through theatsait of Gibraltar.” In turning over the Annual Register'ſor the yeasºn 768, 19 * , , , , . <> - &e ºf $ s , face currents in the Pacific Ocean are influenced, generally, in a similar way, by the sun's power, as those a'short-time ago, I observed an essay, written by Mr. Waie, oftlis Royal Sobiety of Steckholm, to explain this cause. It is ingenieus, line nºt quite satisfactory, beeause his facts are at varianea, with each pºther. Mr. Waiz computes that “the water, which is received annually into the Mediterranean, by the straits, and from the Nile, and,all the fivers which fall into the Black Sea, and flow through the strait of Con- $tantinople, cannot raise its surface less than thirty feet ; and the annual evaporation te lower it about forty-four feet.” He then says that “if thºr Mediterranean had lost annually, since it first existed, this quan- tity-of-water, by-evaporation, it would, long before now, have been reduced to a vast mass of indurated salt.” And yet, he adds, “in the many thousand years, since this sea has been known, this metamor- phosis has not taken place, but even its waters, as far as we know, āke not become more salt.” He therefore feels himself obliged to give up evaporation, and “seek same other expedient to get rid of its rºundant waters.” What, redundant waters ? Has he not computed the texapºration to,be sufficient to lower its surface 44 feet, and its supply through the strait of Gibraltar, and the Dardanelles, as well as 'an the rivers, which flow into it, as only sufficient te raise it annu- āşş80 feet? Thus, so far from there being any redundancy of water is the Mediterranean, an annually increased supply would be required, wad, potten expedient to get rid of what he himself proves it cannot §: The expedient he has recourse to, however, is a double current, which he first proposes to ascertain with all possible exactness, and then $o reconcile it to the laws of hydrostatics. . As a proof (to him) ºf the existence of this under current, from east to west, out of the Mediterranean (which he assumes to be salter and, heavier), he men. tious, (and, others have repeated it) a story of a “Dutch transport vessel having been beaten to pieces by a French ship of war, in the middle of the strait of Gibraltar, between Tariffa and Tangier; the witk of this vessel, with some casks, and other light things, appeared, some days, on the surface of the water, four English miles to the swest, towards the Spanish sea.” Mr. Waiz then observes, “If the di- rection of the current were the same at the bottom, as on the surface, from west to east, these wreoks, could met have raised thesselves, against the current, so as to swim attep.” . If we may here assume that Mr. Waiz believed, that this wreck, with the casks and other 20. between Affica, and Anherieńy making however dae; alltºwance for the difference of theiformation and pºsing light things}:did not float on the surfaceſ, but immédiatelysakelotºniº to the Bottum (the tesm; he uses), or at least into a fluid of thabklew gree of suitºess and gravity, which (as he afterwards attemptstºpºveys by experiment) must give it a direction to the west, and carry; these; light articles along with it,--I would ask, then, If the fluid at the surº face were, as he must allow, less salt, or speeifically lighter than that: beneath it, in-proportion to its depth, yet still how could, thbseight's articles sink to that convenient depth, unless their specific gravity was: greater than it?” And if greater (which however can hardly be ada mitted), by what law could theyy when carried far enough to the west. ward, ds, convenientlyi raise, themseldes: again to the surface, and’ibe observed floating intá medium; that could not support them before ?: 3 But the truth, is; the fact, if it be one, proves, if it prove any thing (taking it for granted, that the light substances specified would have floated in the surface fluid), that they must have been driven. within the influence of that surface counter,current, which every.thari, who has had experience in the straitºf Gibraltar, knows, does; settibº . theiswestward, elose in, both in the Barbary and Spanish shores.gºi; if Mr. Waiz, on the authority of Count Marsigli, assumesithe, existºri ence of an under and surface' current (in opposition to the hiothèl); through the strait of Comstantinople. : He says, “that the salt waters enters at the bottom into the Black Sea; and is then renderedilighters by the quantity of fresh water that runs into it; after which, it flows- again in the same strait, above the salt water, into the Mediterranean, as is seen in the strait of Gibraltar.” He also says, “The currents, are stronger at Constantinople than at Gibraltar, because the differſ ence in the degrees of saltness, of the water which comes in and that, whichigoes out, is greater; namely, according to Marsigli,173.to,628; whereas, it is not so great in the strait of Spain.” . . . . . . . . . !.Thb thabry of this under current, in the strait of Gibraltargis thus esplained by: Mr. Waiz “As there is a continual, and copious discharge of salt water into the Mediterranean, a great part of this: water deposits its salt by evaporation;...therefore what is left always remiains moreisalty and consequently more weighty. Supposing them. the surfaces of the two seas, the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, 16- ba'apalºº suppositions,however, without facts to support it), sºftheir. gsayity would not be duuelsibatãhe swater of the Mediterranean, as the 2} tians of intervening lands ºffer these obstruntothed uniform general tendency of the winds; and current&- mestoweighty, would press on that of the Atlantic, and the twº seas woëld-rim together, till the waters became of equal weight, so that the Mediterranean would necessarily be lowest. When this happeas; the water of the Atlantic, which is highest, cannot take its eonyse through the strait but by a higher current, by means of which it spreads itself in the Mediterranean; but this would augment the weight; already the greatest, of the water of the latter, which cannot get away, but by opening itself a passage underneath, and forming an inferior opposite eurrent in the strait.” This is sufficient to produce the two currents, and to perpetuate them without interruption.”; “ . . The experiment to prove this hypothesis, to be in agreement, with the laws of hydrostatics, is then thus described by Mr. Waia. “Take a long box, divided into two by a board fixed in, the middle; let there be a small hole in the board which you can shut at pleasures Fill one end of the box with watery and the other with eil, to ºn.eqital height. On hastily-opening the hole, in the board that divides thein, the water, which is the heaviest, will be seen to run into the end of the box where the oil is. On the contrary, the oil will be carried in the same manner, and at the same time, into that end-where the water is, over which it will spread itself. It may indeed be objectád, that, as oil camot mix with water, it must get at top; but the same thing happens testwo waters of unequal gravity, when one is coloured, and much salter than the other.” ' ' , , , . . . * . . . , t , This hypothesis of Mr. Waiz, stands on pretty sure ground, and may be applicable to the Mediterranean, if its waters are proved ato be salter, and consequently heavier, than those of the Atlantic. Seme, philosophers, taking this for granted, have adopted and supported it, in preference to that of Dr. Halley, who was of opinion that the quantity of water evaporated from the Mediterranean, exceeds the supply every way necessary to equalize its surface with that of the Atlantic. This Mr. Waiz also admits to be the fact; and sets out by proving it. : * * A a Colonel Capper, whose “Observations on the Winds and Mo *; though published in the year 1801 I never happened to meet with , till last week, says, at page 202, on this question of evaporation being the cause: “In summer the land is always much hotter than water, and the surrounding air on land is much more dry; consequently,the 1 * * ; , ; . 22 from east to west; therefore from the east coast of New Holland to the east coast of Africa, and within evaporation of all Mediterranean or inland seas must be infinitely geater than that of the ocean, in the same parallels, where the air is already saturated, and continues in the same temperature many days successively. Besides, it must be remembered, that the water evapo- rated from Mediterranean seas, is immediately in summer conveyed to- wards the land, where great part of it remains, being there precipita- ted in rain, for the benefit of the earth, or retained on the summit of the mountains in the form of ice and snow; and even the remainder is but slowly returned into the different seas and lakes, through the channels of the adjacent rivers. The quantity of water thus raised in vapour, and retained there, for these beneficial purposes, can only be supplied by a constant current from that part of the north Atlantic, with which it immediately communicates. - -- . “Should this hypothesis, on further examination, be considered as well founded, it will serve also to account for the equatorial currents; for during the equinoxes, and for some weeks preceding and following them, the evaporation near the equator must be very considerable; the water adjacent will therefore flow in to supply the deficiency, and consequently in all parts of the ocean, where it is not obstructed by land, will produce, at this season, opposite currents from the two poles to the equator. But an exact account of the currents in the Atlantic, kept for one year, would verify or refute this system; and the strength of the current at different seasons, from the ocean to the Mediterra- nean, through the strait of Gibraltar, would afford very useful infor- mation on this subject.” - Among those who appear to have adopted the theory of Mr. Waiz, is a writer in a popular critical review, No. 28, for May 1816. He says: “We mean not to support the truth of Dr. Halley's theory; we know it is liable to a multitude of objections, from which the old notion of an under current, setting out of the strait, is entirely free; and if it has been proved experimentally, what should be the case theoretically, that the water of the Mediterranean is more salt, and consequently of greater specific gravity than that of the Atlantic, it is as necessary that the former should rush out underneath, and the latter rush in above, as that the flame of a candle should be driven by the cold air through [under] the bottom of a door into the room, while the more rarefied air carries it outward at the top of the door. This under 23 the limits of the sun's declination, the winds and cur- rents are periodical, according to his place. But it current, and the two lateral currents which Tofino” (and every one has) “found constantly setting outwards, along the shores of Europe and Africa, at new and full moon, afford a more satisfactory solution of the problem, than the unequal effect of evaporation.” * - • Now it appears to me that all the facts we do know are in favour of Dr. Halley's theory, and against that of a counter under current, which is tenable only after it shall be proved that the surfaces of the Mediterranean and Atlantic ever were, or are, equal; and that the waters of the former are specifically heavier (and colder too) at equal depths than those of the Atlantic. At present, these two necessary data are little better than supposi- tious. But sound arguments are not to be built on suppositions. The first supposition, Mr. Waiz, in particular, had no claim to make as a groundwork for his hypothesis: for he sets out with computing “the quantity of evaporation as sufficient to lower the surface of the Mediterranean about 44 feet annually; but the supply received into it, as only sufficient to raise it 30 feet annually.” So that by his own showing, so far from his being entitled to suppose the surfaces of the Mediterranean and Atlantic to be, or ever to have been, equal; that of the former, if his com putation were correct, would have been lowered i4 feet, every succeeding year. Now, so great a disparity between the annual supply of water to the Mediterranean, and its expenditure by some cause, be it what it may, is disproved by past and present ex- perience. For no such diminution of the water in the Mediterranean has taken place. Its surface is of the same height nearly as it has been in all ages. That its surface is lower generally than that of the Black Sea, and of the Atlantic, we want no calculation to show: the constant flow of the first through the Strait of Constantinople, and of the Atlantic into it through the Gut of Gibraltar, are facts before our eyes which prove it agreeably to the laws of hydrostatics. And accord- ing to the same laws, if ever the supply to the Mediterranean should so far exceed the expenditure by evaporation, as to realize Mr. Waiz's supposititious theory of equal surfaces, then the effect he showed by his box experiment may take place, provided the waters of the Medi- terranean be specifically heavier, salter, and colder, at equal depths, than those of the Atlantic. But if they are nearly of equal specific gravity (which, notwithstanding a few partial experiments to the contrary, 24 wonld be leading us too far out of the way, to attempt to trace the currents in the Indian seas, influenced as they are, so variously, and oppositely, in their direction and velocity, at different seasons, by the Monsoons and the bodies of land within their limits. Suffice it to say what more particularly applies to the North Pacific, and will lead us again to the Arctic regions. : , “Having said, that the air is rarefied and raised in the atmosphere, and that the greatest degree of evapo- ration is effected between the west coast of Africa, and the east coast of America; and that north of the line, the fluid is so returned towards, the North Pole, and, being condensed somewhere in its passage by cold, it perhaps supplies with water some of the rivers which discharge into the seas of the temperate zone or into the North Polar Ocean; and, whether falling in rain, hail, or snow, upon the earth or not, it ultimately finds its way into the Ocean. And according to the temperature propor- tionate to its depth, the water takes a direction towards the regions of equatorial heat; is again raised by that heat to the surface, and again evaporated. Experiments in the Ocean have proved, that when the temperature of the atmosphere exceeds that of the surface of the sea, the superficial water is generally warmer than that at certain depths beneath it (I say generally, because in soundings, and confined waters, local causes effect many is probably the case), and the surface of the Mediterranean be at all times lower than that of the Atlantic, then the perpetual flow of the surface of the latter into the Mediterranean must be the consequence, as certainly as any other effect follows its proper antecedent cause. Nay, even if the Red Sea had any channel of communication with the Mediterranean, its waters also would flow into it, because the surface of the Red Sea, I should suppose, must be higher than that of the other, for obvious reasons.” t , ' , , : 25 tarceptions to this general rule), and, in all probability, the greater the depth the colder the fluid in that case. ...And as we know that when the air (or water) reeeives an in- crease of heat, its parts will be put in motionſ towards that heat, it follows, that the colder water throughout its whole depth must have a tendency to flow towards the point of greatest, heat, and therefore be continually rising towards the surface in the equatorial regions.— This probably is the routine of the general movement of the atmosphere, and the waters of the Ocean, between Europe, Africa, and America, and from the arctic re- gions to the equator.' . And it seems no less probable, $ . $ . Colonel Capper, in his “Observations on the Winds and Mon- - soons,” says, at page 130, “In the next place, I shall attempt to show by what means the atmosphere is supplied with water; in what man- her the winds are rendered the vehicle for conveying this moisture to the earth; and by what means these waters are again returned to the sea, carrying with them the salts from the land, so as to keep up the saltness of the ocean. “In the absence of the sun in the winter solstice, immense masses of ice and snow are collected, in the polar regions, which by these means become so many reservoirs of water, deposited there by the hand of Nature, in a solid form, until the return of the sun, when they are in, part dissolved, and being again put in circulation, serve to in- crease the quantity of the water in the sea. % * . . . . . - “During the whole of the summer solstice, in each hemisphere, in- eluding the three hottest months, the quantity of ice and snow thus dissolved must be prodigious. If when this operation is performing the sun was suddenly to disappear, and this mass of water to be again º, immediately cougealed, the first dissolution would have taken place º, in vain :, but the course of the sun is gradual, and as he continues his progress, either north or south, one atmosphere is progressively warmed, whilst the other is proportionably cooled: , with the former a vacuum is formed, which is filled up by the cold denser air put in motion by its gravity to restore the equilibrium: this motion of the air consequently conveys with it the increased body of water from the polar regions, and carries this additional mass towards the trepics and the equator. - Data. * D 26 that in the Racific, they are subject to the same general kaws.io. Forthere also the great equatorial current is is eanstantimotion to the westward; and, like the gulf. stmeanij ſand from causes, too; in some-points similar, it gradually, turns to the northward when it approaches the lands to the northward of New Guinea and the Philippine Islands, being perhaps at the same time in- fluenced by currents setting in a different direction; more particularly during the prevalence of the south. west monsoon in the Indian and China seas. Near the coast of Japan the current has been found to set. N.E. by N., at the rate of five miles, an hour: at 18 leagues distance, about three knots, in the same direction; but at a greater distance from the land it inclined more to the eastward.; and at 60 leagues from the land, it set E.N.E., three miles an hour ; then (like the gulf-stream) inclining gradually to the southward; so that at the distance"of 120 leagues from the coast of Nipon, its direction was S.E., and its rate not more, thania knot. From this current setting generally to the N.E., along the coast of Japan, more, or less strong, according to the season of the year, it appears that the motion of the air and waters, between the west eqast of America and New Holland, and all the lands north- ward towards Behring's Strait, is similar to that north of the Equator, between Africa, Europe and America, It is therefore presumable, that though a superficial; cur- rent may run into Behring's Strait, there must also be one'running out of it underneath, if there be no obstruc- º when º ir surnt %fair and water, if we missi, this ex- pression, º. ºne; the 'constint heat if the sun, which išimiéreased' likewise by the fleet of the earth as it approaches the 1ahd, causes a tonsiderable increase of evaporation, or in common labeuage; a distillatips-of the sea water, leaving behind in the ocean all its saline qualities.” * 97 tion, and the principles this theory résts on aw8 corneat; But the writer of the article. I am examining it of opi, mierz. that * the coastant circular motion, and giater. ëhange of waters between the Pacific and the Atlantigº must be by Behring's Strait; otherwise ‘it would be dif- ficult to explain'the perpetual, egress of a current from the Polar basin into the Atlantic, without admitting'a supply through the only remaining opening into that basin; to answer the demand of the current.’” I admit, the probability of a surface current into the Strait; for the reasons already given, and believe there may be one, because it is mentioned thus in Cook's Voyage: “We were now convinced that we had been under the influence of a strong current setting to the north, that had caused an error in-our latitude of 20 miles. In passing this Strait last year we experienced the same effect, #0n the 12th of July, when within the Strait, in łátitude 69°. 37, and half way between the two conti- Hents, the current was found to set N.W. at the rate of one knot.” This proves there was a surface current, though a small one, both at the entrance and to the northward of the Strait. But what have we to found the supposition on, that the waters may be “rushing out” (that is, in from the Pacific, I suppose is meant) * with the greatest violence under the Floodgate, which means ‘the impenetrable barrier of ice which stopped the progress of Cook's successors?” . . . . . . . . . . . * “The author of the article in question supposes that “if the Polar basinº should prove to be free-from land about the Pole, it will also be free of ice,” and that this may be the case is not improbable, ‘i, the summer season: not, however, because of the non-ex. istence of land, but for other reasons, which shalk, be explained by and by. He also supposes that the 28 barrier of ice which stopped the progress of Cook's suc- cessors was moveable, or nowhere touched the bottom. The Writer of Cook's Voyage was of the same opinion as to the ice nearest the ship; though that opinion rested on a foundation that might not, perhaps, equally apply to the larger masses of ice further to the northward, and not seen. His words are:—‘We had twice traversed the sea, in lines nearly parallel to the run we had just made, and in the first of those traverses we were not able to penetrate so far north, by eight or ten leagues, as in the second ; and that in the last, we had again found an united body of ice, generally about five leagues to the southward of its position in the preceding run. As this proves that the large compact fields of ice which we saw were moveable, or diminishing, at the same time, it does not leave any well-founded expecta- tion of advancing much further in the most favorable season.' . - . . . . . . “Though this proves that the floating ice seen shifted its position, both to the northward and to the southward, but chiefly the latter, as will be soon further proved—yet it does not prove that the larger masses to the northward, perhaps, which they did not see, might not be immoveable, by grounding on the bottom, if the water became shoaler in that direction, as our navigators found it was, as far as they advanced. Now should there have been any immoveable masses of ice to the northward, it would in some degree explain why the current, which the writer in the review sup- poses to set with such ‘violence” from the Pacific, should not have carried the ice away with it towards the Pole, where there may be mone, But, if the whole of this ice was moveable, it proves that whether there was a small current setting to the northward, or not, 29 and whether at the surface or the bottom, or both; there must have been a stronger current from the north- ward, or something else, which still more powerfully impelled the ice to the southward, in defiance of the other, as well as of the wind, which appears to have been generally from the south-west when strongest. It is said in Cook's Voyage, ‘It may be observed, that in the year 1778, we did not meet with the ice till we ad- vanced to the latitude of 70°, on the 17th of August; and that then we found it in compact bodies, extend- ing as far as the eye could reach, and of which a part or the whole was moveable ; since by drifting down upon us (from the northward) we narrowly escaped being hemmed in between it and the land.’ On the Asiatic side they encountered extensive fields of ice, and were sure to meet with it about the latitude of 70°, quite across, whenever they attempted to stand to the northward. On the 26th of August they were ob- structed by it in 694°, in such quantities as made it quite impossible to pass either to the north or west. In the second attempt they could do little more, for they were never able to approach the continent of Asia higher than 67°; nor that of America, in any part, than 68°, or 68°. 20' north. But in the last attempt they were obstructed by the ice three degrees further to the southward, and their endeavors to push further to the northward were principally confined to the mid space between the two coasts. - “Now all this does not seem to favor the supposition of a current “rushing in' from the Pacific through Behr- ing's Strait, with such velocity, as it may fairly be sup- posed a body of water would have, of sufficient quan- tity to supply the southerly current, “setting perpetu- ally into the Atlantic on both sides of Greenland, not 30 oily wheff'the ice is melting, but when the sea is fraga ingº"Indeed, if we do but consider for a moment dig qāhlity of water that thay be supposed to flow through sé"extensive à spače as 'Davis's Strait, “with "a"We': rocity of four; and sometimes even five miles an hotº and then add to that the amazing quantity setting as constantly to the southward, in the still greater späcé to the eastward of Greenland and Spitzberged,” it H64 certainly appear to be improbable, nay, impossible; that a current of at least equal, or of double velocity, alſº occupying the full extent in depth and breadth' 6f Behring's Strait, would be at all adénuate to answer the demand; much less, so trifling a current as we are warranted by facts to believe there is. For in Cook's Voyage, the remarks on this matter are thus summed up — By comparing the reckoning with the observa- tions, we'found the currents to set different ways; yet more from south-west than any other quarter:"'We again tried the currents, and found them uměqbal, Büt never erceeding one mile an hour. "Whatever"their direction might be, their effect was so trifting, that it, conclusion respecting the existence of a passage to the northward could be drawa from them.” \ , ; ; ſº " It is presumed, that all the currents here spokeh of were 'superficial; but even admitting they extended quite across the Strait, and flowed the same way throughout its whole depth, still it seems quite beyond the bounds of possibility that the quantity of water so admitted, and with a rate of flow “so trifting,' could be stifficient for the supply of the currents “setting to the southward"perpetually, through the other two open- ings, (Baffin's sea being doubted then) into the At- Hafitic.” ! ... • . • * f ."“Judging fróm suth facts as are before us, that a part, and but a very small part, of the demand to sup: ply the southern current, comes in from the Pacific through Behring's Strait, it is necessary to inquire. From what sources then is all the water so flowing out of the polar regions derived I have supposed the currents to be produced (at least the motion of the great deep) generally by evaporation in the equatorial regions of beat, and by cold returned in various ways in the atmosphere, by land and by sea, into the northern re- gions, even as far as the Pole. For though “the way of the Almighty is, as the Psalmist says, “in the sea, and his path in the deep waters, yet it is also as surely in the clouds of heaven. And though his foot- steps are not known certainly, yet it is permitted us humbly to endeavor to trace them. . . . . , “Whether or not there be any increase of water from the melting of the ice in the Polar sea, so as to cause a current to the south, appears not to be very material, and perhaps has little to do with the general quantity in the ‘Polar basin.” In all probability, it remains nearly the sqme at all times, whether there is more or less ice; that is, taking the ice and water together to make up that quantity. I agree with the reviewer, that ‘those who could suppose the melting of the ice to afford such a supply, would betray a degree of igno- rance greater, perhaps, than that of not being aware of the very little influence which an arctic summer exerts on fields of ice, perpetually surrounded as they are by a freezing atmosphere created by themselves 1’ However, there is no subject, perhaps, on which opi- nions have been more at variance than on the melting of the ice in the polar regions, as well as where and how it is formed. St. Pierre went so far as to suppose it was the cause of the tides; but he does not appear $2 | ". tº have lºan sº plain matter-of-fact man,' but ºf fanc * andlinegination. 1, . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ºw." Qthers, think the ice does not melt at allier at least vary little, even in summer. ºf ice, when ºnce formed (be it haw it may) round and along the coasts of these regions, does not melt at all, there must be a sonstant.indrease, so long as that ice is “surrounded perpetually by a freezing atmosphere created by itself,' which the reviewer tells us it “mostly is, even in suba- mer; and if so, we may fairly presume it always, is in winter... . . . . . . . § { * = “At this rate, with the exception of what may make its escape through Davis's Strait, and to the eastward of Greenland, it would necessarily be always, advancing towards the Pole, (admitting the land to be the place of its first formation), and, close over it; unless we can find some probable cause counteracting this effectrof perpetual frost... And, perhaps we are warranted in supposing that there exists, somes such cause.... Indeed it seems more than probable, that the process of freed- ing and melting may be going on in the arctic regions, on the same, body of ice, (if of magnitude..to be suffiai- ently imamersed,) at the same time, and perhaps in Athe winter, as well as the Summer. : * * , $1 , ; ; -, * Water is a compound of ice and caloric....The temperature of ice is 32° ; and whilst surrounded by a tamperature, equal, it will remain ice. But, whenever the temperature of the atmosphere exceeds 32°, and continues so long enough, for the body of ice to receive a sufficiency, of caloric to, effect its dissolution, it will do so. It is probable, that the temperature of the atmo- sphere, even in the arctic regions, in summer will some- times, exceed. 32°, and the more, perhaps, the nearer the Pole; and whenever it does,...sufficiently, the effection ice is obvious. º: $3 **This seems sufficient to be said; on the probability of ice above water melting in the Arctic regions in 'summer, if the temperature of the ratmosphere ever sufficiently exceeds 32°. In the winter, as the tempe- arature, of the atmosphere must be constantly" below 4thdt, of course the freening above water wiłł be as constant, though the surface of the sea itself wiłł'pro- bably not freeze till at a temperature much below 30°, even in a motionless state. The same body of ice, whilst freezing above water, that is, increasing in size and extent by snow, hail, and the salt water freezing in washing over it, may perhaps, at the same time, be melting ander water; and this process will probably -be-accelerated according to the magnitude of therhass, and the depth of its immersion. For, when the at- ºrnosphere is colder than the surface of the sea, the water will (in proportion, perhaps, to its 'depth) be ..fotindºwurmer by some degrees, than at the surface ; band, though few experiments have yet been made to he refers Malte-Brun, (who had dared “to convertian ice ºeuntain into a marine current, by the effect of the 'solarºpays,) that as much ice as the solar rays decord- posed on one side of such a mountain, would be re-com- posed; probably, on the other.” This is at least one step towards self-refutation, as it admits the probaby equal and simultaneous operation of the two opposite powers of heat and cold above water, on floating ice, which would consequently keep the quantity there equal at all times. . ^ e. * , i. But the Reviewer now wishes, it seems, to go further; and having since had a glimpse of some “new light,” from “Mr. Scoresby's communication to Sir Joseph Banks,” and the “observations made in the Greenland seas on the temperature of the water at the surface, when that of the atmosphere, he takes it for granted, (but why, he does not say) was at or below the freezing point,” which are inserted at page 458 and '4, he thinks it as well to look a little deeper. And also new, for the first time, perhaps, looking to the fair inference that has been already, or might be, drawn from his déé- trine of progressive everlasting congelation in the Arctic regions, he calls old Davis from the “vasty deep” to help him out with some fact to show that there is some other counteracting power in operation, ander water also, to prevent that accumulation of ice, which “otherwise, in process of time, would freeze up the glöbe.”" Fortunately, and most opportunely, he was furnished, with this by old Davis, who tells him that #e had seen “an Ylande of Yse turne up and downe be- cause it; biath'melted so faste under water." On this grahd- and seemingly unexpected discovery, then suga- cious eritic, in the name of his brethren, exclaims in rapture,”“We have no doubt that Davis is right, and ...] 05 that the action of the salt sea on ige, and matrits decom- position by the solar. rays, prevents an accumulation which would otherwise, in process of time, freeze, tºp the globe 1: " It would seem, however, entirely tº have escaped the notice of this sage critic that Davis, did not account for this melting of “the yse so faste:under water,” because the sea was salt, but owing, “to his heate of power to dissolve yse.” The Reviewer might as well have told us what he meant by “the action of the salt sea on ice.” It may have been the increased tem- perature of the sea, shown by the experiments of Dr. Irving and Mr. Scoresby; but if so, why apply the needless term salt to the sea? He was not quite sure, then, perhaps, of the fact of an increasing temperature of the sea downwards; as he deems “the few experiments in, Phipps's Voyage wholly unsatisfactory,” yet they must have made some impression on his belief. How- ever, he wery prudently declines hazarding “an opinion as to the cause of this warm stream,” but leaves it to his readers,” to ascribe it” to the “submarine geysers ” of Pennant, or to “the heated current from the Pacific, which probably loses nothing of its temperature in its passage among the active Volcanoes of the Aleutian Islands,” and thence through Behring's Strait, and the Jºrogen Ocean, into the bargain!! Bless us! what an advantage it is to be a man of learning and a great traveller! what daring flights it enables the mind to take on the wings of a lively imagination | The Edin- burgh Reviewer, in No. 59, observes on this subject, “that, contrary to what takes place under milder, skies, the water drawn up from a considerable depthis warmer within the Arctic circle than what lies on the surface. 3the floating ice accordingly begins to melt generally, on the underside, froth the slow nommunication of the heat Data. O 106 sent upwards.” The Quarterly. Reviewer says, “but we are rather inclined to consider it as the lighter water rising from an extreme depth to the surface.” Mr. Scoresby, in his account of the Arctic regions, published in 1820, says, at page 184, “As far as experiments have hitherto been made, the temperature of the sea has generally been found to diminish on descending. But in the Greenland sea, near Spitzbergen, the contrary is the fact. The results of the experiments he made for determining this interesting point were highly satis- factory; the water being invariably warmer than that at the surface.” A series of these experiments are ex- hibited in a table at p. 187. “They were all made in deep water, clear of land, and out of soundings, the tem- perature of the air at the times being generally below, and seldom above 32 degrees of Fahrenheit.” So much for the fact, which (being an unlearned man) is all if dare meddle with ; but as others may wish to see whe- ther Mr. Scoresby's attempts to account for the cause are more clear and satisfactory than those of the two rival Reviewers, I shall insert what he says at pagé 209, &c. “From the fact of the sea near Spitzberged being usually six or seven degrees warmer, at the depth of 100 to 200 fathoms, than it is at the surface, it seems not improbable that the water below is a still farther ex- tension of the Gulf stream, which, on meeting with water near the ice, lighter than itself, sinks below the sarface, and becomes a counter under current.” Aftel agaia, “From the circumstance of an under stratum of whier, in the Spitzbergen sea, being generally warmer, by some degrees, than that at the surface, though of sihilar specific gravity, it would appear that the warmer wateris, in this case, the most dense, or why does it riot rise and change places with the colder water at the 107 surface?” I am sure I cannot say why ; and, my good reader, if you are not able to do so, perhaps one or other of the critics will assist you ; though I apprehend the Quarterly Reviewer will be somewhat puzzled by the question. For his warm water, brought all the way from the Pacific Ocean, happens to be lighter than that at the surface in the Arctic regions, and at an extreme depth too (as he of course ean give a good reason for); but Mr. Scoresby's warm stream from the West Indies is heavier than that at the surface (or “of similar spe- cific gravity,” for it is hard to say which he means), and therefore sinks underneath it, instead of rising like the Quarterly Reviewer's circumvolving current, “from an extreme depth to the surface.” In the Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, No. 4, for April 1820, is inserted an abstract of Mr. Scoresby's results ; also some obv tained by Lieutenant Beechey, on board the Trent, in the Spitzbergen seas; and others by Mr. Fisher on board the Dorothea. º From these and other experiments made by Dr. Marcet, the Editor of that Journal observes, “In Baffin's Bay, the Mediterranean sea, and the tropical seas, the temperature of the sea diminishes with the depth, according to the observations of Phipps, Ross, Parry, Sabine, Saussure, Ellis,and Peron ; but it is a remark, able fact, that in the Arctic or Greenland seas, the temperature of the sea increases with the depth. This singular result was first obtained by Mr. Scoresby, i.e. a series of well-conducted experiments, and has been confirmed by the later observations of Lieutenant& Franklin, Beechey, and Mr. Fisher,” I however apprºr hend, that the correctness of the Editor's observations will sometimes, perhaps, be impeached, by... results 3 little at variance with both these general rules, owing 108 to the circumstances of locality as to land, depth of water, and the temperature of the atmosphere, comt. pared with that of the surface, at the time of making experiments on submarine temperature. Some few instances in proof of such exceptions to the first general rule, appear by the experiments made by Captain Hall and Mr. Clarke Abel, near the coast of China, and were noticed by Phoca in his second letter; and other exceptions to the second rule are to be found among the experiments made by recent voyagers in the Arctic regions. One is particularly noticed by Mr. Scoresby, in his “Journal of a Voyage to the Northern Whale Fishery,” published last year, 1823. He says, at page 237, “At 10 A.M. being in latitude 72° 7' and longitude 19° 11’ west, we obtained soundings in 118 fathoms; muddy bottom. The temperature of the sea at the surface was 34°, and within five fathoms of the bottom, by a Six's thermometer, it was 29°; the air at the same time was 42°. In all former experiments upon the tem- perature of the Greenland sea, I have invariably-found it to be warmer below than at the surface. This earception therefore is remarkable:” and Mr. Scoresby might have added singular too; for it is perhaps the only experi- Inent he ever, made in soundings, which is quite suffi- cient to account for the exception. Mr. Scoresby adds: “On my first trial, made in 1810, in latitude 76° 16', 'and longitude 9° east, the temperature at the depth of #380 feet was found to be 33° 3' (by the water brought ºup), whilst at the surface it was 28°8'. In one instance (the-latitude being 79° and long. 5° 40' E.) there was an increase of 7° of temperature on descending 600 ºfeet; and 'in, another series of experiments, near the same place, an increase of 8° was found at the depth of 4389, feet. What renders this increase of temperature 169 on descending in the Spitzbergen sea the more extsäers; dinary, is the fact, that in almost all other regions of the globe, as far as observations have been made, a contrasy, law prevails, the sea being colder below than at the surface.” But few or no experiments have been made yet in the Antarctic sea; and whenever they shall be, E have very little doubt but it will be found to be the same as it is in the Spitzbergen sea, progressively warmer in proportion to the depth, ercept in straits, deep bays, or inlets, and perhaps in soundings near land ; and that the cause, whatever it may be (as Mr. Scoresby says), which occasions the peculiar warmth in the Spitzbergen sea, will produce the same effect in the Antarctic sea, though there we cannot have recourse, either to the circumvolving current, from the Pacific, of the Quarterly Reviewer, or the Gulf stream of Mr. Scoresby, to assist us to account for it. It was on the firm expectation that this warm temperature of the Arctic seas would be found (though it appears Mr. Scoresby had dis- coveredit to possess this, some time before), that Phoca. presumed it might be continually dissolving ice under water; yet still, on the whole, there might, by the process of freezing above, be an increase of ice in the frozen sea, but that the surplus was brought out by the Polar current round the N.E. part of Greenland; and that consequent- ly, “the general quantity of water in that sea remained nearly the same at all times; that is, taking the ice and water together, as an aggregate quantity.” Though Capt. Parry has, as we have seen, acknowledged, an increase of ice on the northern shores of Melville Island, he seems to be of opinion that the quantity of floating ice is generally the same nearly, from what he observed in Winter Harbour. - - ". . . . . . . . When there, on the 6th of July 1820, he says, at | HO page:347, “ In all cases we found the ice to be first thawed, and broken up in the shoalest water, in coa- sequence, I suppose, of the greater facility with which the ground, at a small depth below the surface of the sea, absorbed and radiated the sun's rays; and as it is in such situations that water generally freezes first, this circumstance seems a remarkable instance of the pro- vision of nature for maintaining such a balance in the quantity of ice annually formed and dissolved, as shall prevent any undue or extraordinary accumulation of it in any part of the Polar regions of the earth. Among the means also which nature employs in these regions to dissolve, during the short summer, the ice which has been formed upon the sea by the cold of winter, there appears to be none more efficacious than the numerous streams of water produced by the melting of the snow upon the land, which, for a period of at least sin or seven weeks, even in the climate of Melville Island, are gon- tinually discharging themselves into the ocean. On this account it would appear probable that the high land is more favorable to the dissolution and disper. sion of ice near its shores, than that which is lower, because it supplies a never-ceasing flow during the whole of the thawing season.” Considering the quan- tity of land, already known to exist between the west side of Greenland and the coast of America, and gene. rally, described high, this abundant dissolution there- from must, during that period, increase the quantity of fluid, and consequently occasion some current towards thºsoutb, "I merely mention this now, as I shall per- haps, in the course of this inquiry be able to bring forward the testimony of Captain Parry to prove the fact; but not that the “short summer” dissolves all “the ioeformed on the sea in winter.” 1'ſ 1 We have already seen that the grounds originally taken by the Quarterly Reviewer in favor of the exist; ence and practicability of a N.W. passage (of both which he did not then, still less does he now, entertaitº any doubt) are the following, which I shall again call to the reader's attention. * # } 1st. The existence of a perpetual current setting down from the northward, from the Polar Basin, through Baffin's Sea, and Davis's Strait, into the Atlantic, with a velocity of four, and sometimes of five miles an hour. 2d. The non-existence of Baffin's Bay, as drawn in the charts. gº $ 3d. A circumvolving current, setting as perpetually “from the Pacific through Behring's Strait” into the Polar Basin, and out of it into the Atlantic; and “whose eaistence in his opinion affords the best hope for the success of the expeditions engaged in exploring a passage into the Pacific”—by way of the Pole, as well as along the north coast of America. 3. 4th. A great Polar sea, free from ice, near the Pole, ºf free from land. & Af Mr. Barrow, one of the secretaries at the Admiralty, appears, from what he says in his account of the voyages to the Polar regions, published in 1818, to have taken up the question precisely on the same grounds as the Reviewer. : Mr. Scoresby, in his account of the Arctic regions, published in 1820, enumerates some of these, and also considers them as probable grounds for supposing that' such a passage may evist. Ellis's reasons, he says, apºl' pear to him to be “the most satisfactory.” Gne of these, rather a curious one to be so “satisfactory,” is! “ the direct testimony of the Indians, which tends to: prove that they have seen the sea beyond the mountains, 112 dºholºrvºdººselºtºvigatiºthéºn 1.1". Whºra, iaºhe name of Heaven, could these vessels have come from? £5 how could any have been there, unless they were the canºſof Esquimaux! which it may be presumed Ellis . did not understand these Indians to mean by what he termed vessels. ... " r *; , ; }; -w 3: . ... Mr. Scoresby, on the whole, however, is ratherºcep- ...tical on the practicability of such passage, “and, Pyeſhif. it were discovered, he conceives it would beat interwals only of years that it would in all probability beapen at all.” Like a man of much experience and judgment, he says, “the most certain (and I dare say be, might have added the only) method of ascertaining, the exist- ence of a communication between the Atlantic and the Pacific, along the northern shore of America, would doubtless be by journeys on land.” This hinty.has been taken, and as far as it goes, successfullyaoted ºn. If followed, up as it is now reported it will be, this “grand question,” I have not the slightest dºubt, will be solved; but by any ship or ships, without the aid of expeditions by land—it will remain asſitanowsista matter of doubt. d . . . [t, Gºłó1, ... Let usuow examine the four grounds of argument in favor of the practicability of a N.W. passage for ships, l, Phºca attempted, in the first instance, before the ex- peditions sailed, to disprove them all, (and I think with $9merºuccess) except the 4th, which he thought prºba- blfisbut...desired further proof, which is still Wanjing. on Mº., Scaresby disputed none but the 4th, and his peasons for not believing that there is an open sea glear ſpflige about the Pole, I shall examine in the proper place. Butlet us first try the validity of all these (four grounds or arguments, by the test of the expºriençº, of ... º. in "'i ſi i ! . . . f . . . . ) ", , , , , , , ºf f : ** f ; ij * . . , 't 113 those navigators, who have recently visited the riºth Polar regions. ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ". .” * 1st. “The existence of a perpetual current, setting down from the northward, from the PolarBasin, thro Baffin's Sea, and Davis's Strait, into the Atlantić, w a velocity of four, and sometimes five miles an hour.” * Although the already noticed candid declaratićh of the Reviewer, that “he now knows there is such a bay as that of Baffin,’ &c. and he said, before he believed it, that ifthere were such a bay, ‘it would be difficult to explain how any current could originate at the bottom of it,” would seem to render it superfluous to prove that there is no such current, yet though I shall produce the testi- mony to that effect, of one whom he has had no reason to doubt, I must state the currents as I find them mentioned in Captain Ross's Voyage, from the day he passed the parallel of Cape Farewell, during his passage up to the head of Baffin's Bay, and down it again till he got off the entrance of Cumberland Strait. 'On "23d of May, in lat. 57° 2' and longitude 48°2', Captain Ross says: “This evening I remarked the appearance of a current, and the next day ascertained by hoisting out our boat, that it set W. N.W. (true) at the rate of a quarter of a mile an hour.” On the 24th * the N.W. current was still manifest.’ On the 26th of May; in latitude 58° 36', and long. 51° W. “The latitude agreed, but we had been set by a current a few miles to the westward? On the 27th, ‘a copper cylinder with a detail of our situation was thrown overbºard near a very large iceberg, in lat. 61° N. and long.'53° 25, which we passed at 9 P.M. It apparently drifted to the westward, though we could perceive nb currehi. June 1st, in lat. 63° 41', long. 55° 49', “no effect" of a current was apparent, and having gained three miles Data. P 114 of latitude, it séemed evident there could be no current which appeared surprising, as the wind had blown for three successive days directly down the strait,” that is, from the northward. On the 5th of June, lat, 65?:46, and long. 55° W. ‘a boat was anchored to try for a current, but none was perceptible.’ July 3d, in lat, 71°38' and long. 56° 2', ‘ by mid-day we had made a degree of latitude through a chamel apparently void of any current.’ July 19th, “we continued in the midst of the ice, which was carrying us fast to the northward.: August 18th, lat. 75° 54, long. 65° 53, ‘it is worthy of remark, that here, as on the whole of this coast north- ward of 70°, we found the deepest water near the land, and that no current was found.’ # * August 23d, ‘ the sun's meridional altitude was obi served on the iceberg, and the latitude found tabs, 76? 37, the iceberg having drifted three miles tº the months ward.’ September 1st, lat. 73°37', long, 7#.840 observe the current, the line. was dropped vower again, and the transit bearings of two objects on the land set; these however did not vary in the least, nor did we find any current by the line.’ ‘My orders to stand well;ta the north' had been already fully obeyed, and no surrent had been found; and if “a current of some force', did exist, as from “the best authorities' we had reason, to believe was the fact, it could be no where but tax the southward of this latitude.” . . . . $ 1 |ſi. . “On the 6th of September, in lat. 72° 23', and long, 73°17', “no current was found.’ September 30, lat, 643 10, and longitude 68° 5', “we found by our reckoning that the current bad set us twenty-five miles to the N.E. during the last 24 hours.' Thus, according to Captain Ross, no currentfºom the northward was ever experienthd; but, on the contrary, when any could be detected, it set either to the West, N.W., North, or N.E. I 15 . Let us, now see what Captain Parry discovered h his subsequent voyage, as far to the northward as the entrance of Lancaster Sound. ' . . .”: * * • *On the 26th of June 1819, ‘in lat. 63° 59' and longitude 61° 48', in 125 fathoms, the deep sea line in- dicated a drift to the S. by W.’ July 11th, “we sounded at noon in 202 fathoms, lat. 69° 24′ and longitude 58° 16'; not allowing current, which for the three preceding days had appeared to set the ships to the S.S. E. at from 8 to 13 miles per day.’ July 20th, lat. 72°57', long. 58° 41', in 120 fathoms, the ships drift to S.S. W.' July 24th, kat. 72° 59' and longitude 60° 8, “ships drift to S. 1° E. 44 miles in 24 hours, depth of water 260 fathoms.’ On the 30th July, noon, latitude 74° 1', ‘being the first meridional altitude taken for four days, and differ. ing only two miles from the dead reckoning; which is remarkable, considering the sluggishness of the com- passes} and would seem to afford a presumptive proof that..: no southerly current exists in this part of Baffin's Bay.” Further to the southward, however, in the narrow- ëst'part ºf Dawis's Strait, he appears from the foregoing extracts to have met with a very small set of current from the northward. We will now refer to his observa- tions when returning from Lancaster Sound, homeward béund; sº * © . . . . . . . . 360a; the 3d of September, in latitude 71°24', ‘ being only 2 miles and 3 to the southward of the dead reckon- ing in three days, we considered that there could be no elºrent of any importance setting in that direction on this part of the coast.’ September 4th, “the latitude observed was 71°2'42", agreeing to within a mile of the account; so that no current could well have existed since the pree ceding day's observation.’ September 9th, in latitude 69° 24, long. 67°5',ia 35 fathoms, 5 or 6 miles from the land, 116 Captain. Harry says, “found the earrent running some- what less than a milean hour, in a S.A.E. direction, Atº 4.80%rºm. it was again tried, and found to set to this SiR-2atſtherate of # of a mile per hour; and at 7 o'clock, whenswerhove to near Cape Kater for the Gripertojoin us, we found it to be slack water; which proves this to have been a tide stream, and not a current. On the 11th of September, at noon, in lat. 69°19', and long. 66° 5', in 275 fathoms: ‘It must here be remarked, that for each of the last three days, and for these only, we had found the ship between 7 and 8 miles to the southward of the reckoning.’ September 25th, at noon, in latitude 66°13', ‘being 2 miles and # to the southward of the dead reckoning, which difference had occurred on each of the 12 preceding days.’ 'From all these facts it is quite clear that no such current as the Quarterly Reviewer. imagined, was found—indeed scarcely any worth men. tion; and certainly, what little was detected either in Baffin's Bay, or Davis's Strait, could hardly have origi, nated in his circumvolving current from the Pacific through Behring's Strait and the Polar Sea: nay, there was no such thing as a permanent current from the awest- ward found in any part, even of Lancaster Sound, and Barrow's Strait, if the authority of Captain Parry is suf. ficient to show it. He sums up the matter in these words: “Of the current which we experienced in Davis's Strait, and Baffin's Bay. It would appear that during the Summer and Autumn, there is in this parteá, considerable set to the southward. In judging"of the calises which produce this general tendency of the super- ficialicument, it will be proper to bear in mind two facts, whith we have had occasion to remark in the course of this wandtſther preceding voyaga;ifirst, that intra-seas murh encumbered with ice, a current is almost invaria- 1:17 bly produced, immediately on the springing up of every breeze of wind; and, secondly, that in several instårices where the ships. have been beset in the ice; the Hirectoir of the daily drift has been the point of the oompass dir rectly opposite to that of the wind, whether the latterſwas from the northward or the southward. * , , , , ; 13 V P r $. * It appears to me, upon the whole, that the southerly current which we have been enabled to detect, is not more than may be caused by the balance of the northerly winds, added to the annual dissolution of large quantities of snow, which finds the readiest outlet into the Atlan- tic. In the Polar sea, to the westward of Barrow's Strait, no current has been found to exist beyond that which is evidently occasioned by different winds. Inevery part which we had an opportunity of visiting, the tides, though-small, appear to be as regular as in any part of the world.” Thus the Reviewer's first ground has been annihilated by proof positive. The second he has himself confessed to be so, by the same proof. With respect to the third, “a circumvolving current setting as perpetually from the Pacific through Behring's Strait into the Polar basin, and out of it into the Atlantic,” &c. the foregoing facts show that none of it was found in the whole space between the west coast of Greenland audit the meridian of 113° 46'43" 5 in lat. 74° 46'25", which was the farthest point Captain Parry reached; when the Reviewer says, “After struggling till the 46th; Captain Parry determined to return to , the eastward along the edge of the ice, with the intention of availing himself of any opening that might occur, to get to-the southward, and, if possible, upon the coast of Americaº Not perhaps, for the purpose of “seeking,” like: Captain Ross, as the Reviewer tells him, “for his circumnolving current;” but for, what Captain "Parryiomaideredia { 18 much better feason, which I shall have oceasion to mantion’bysand-by, as he assigned it at the time, ahd esh subsequent occasion; especially as the Reviewer has repeated it in terms of approval and acquiescenee, He may also have an eye to the discovery of this favo- rite current of his; for as it had not been found, either by Rossoor Parry, any where within the limits I have before mentioned, its progress from Behring's Strait (if it arist beyond it) through channels of communication, between the “Polar basin” and the Atlantic must, of course, be sought for hereafter, on parallels between Mel- ville-Island, and the coast of America: for we cannot be surprised at the Reviewer's anxiety to get hold of a current, “whose” very “existence in his opinion affords the best hope for the success of the expeditions engaged in exploring a passage into the Pacific.” That there certainly is a temporary and “trifting” superficial cur- rent in Behring's 'Strait to the northward, Phoca has admitted; and so do I, though totally inadequate to supply that which is known to set to the southward, continually, out of the Polar sea, through the Spitzber- gen sea, into the Atlantic; even if it were possible to believe that the waters of the Pacific composed any part of it. Mr. Scoresby appears (as I before observed) to believe in the existence of the Reviewer's circumvolvi. ing current, or at least that of “a sea communication” between the Pacific and “the Atlantic.” As to “the lattery, for water and fish, I admit it may be very possil ble; botášwhere in the space between Melville Island and the north coast of America, which yet remains to be explored.” Mr. Scoresby is of the same opinion as the Revièver, thiefly for the same reasons; one of which is!' because “it is presumed that worm-eaten drift. - woody-found in the Arctic countries, is derived from 1, 19. atrans-polar region,” as he supposes one iog was which “he observed in 1817, on the Island of Jan Mayend; Now, at page 209 of his “Account of the Arctic Ree gians," Mr. Scoresby, has informed us, that, “freed the coast of Britain, the northern branch of the Gulf, stream probably extends superficially along the shore of Norway. About the North Cape, its directinºſapa pears to be changed by the influence of a westerly current from Nova Zembla, so that it afterwards sets to the N. W. as high as the borders of the ice, and thus operating against the polar current setting to the south- ward.” I should like to know Mr. Scoresby's authority for this movement of the superficial waters towards the W. and N.W. from Nova Zembla. However, as he of course believes, or knows it to be so, I would 'ask him: it, by the aid of such a medium, the worm-eaten drift. wood he saw on Jan Mayen's Island might not have been brotght from the West Indies, by this much shorter, and more probable route than the other? The polar current, Mr. Scoresby (page 4) informs us,”“flows; he is well assured, during nine months of the year, if not all the year round, from the N.E., towards, the S.W. The velocity of this current may be from 4 to 20 miles a day, varying in different situations, but is most con- siderable near the coast of Old Greenland.” Here, then, is the perfectly well authenticated fact of a perpetual current out of the Polar sea. It is acknowledged by: the Reviewer in various parts of , his writings, and pairi tisularly pointed out by Mr. Barrow, at page:Bºſhof his Voyages to the “Polar Regions.”—“Now, this pºrphthak current to the southward, out of the Polar Seáptniusº have a cause . That cause, whether it be, whatalºliosiſ attempted to prove it to be, or any other, wouldadatibtai less, produce a similar current from the Polanosebotow iº9 wºrds the Atlântie, through any channels of eemiutifli- eatièa which mayerist from the west side of Greenland to theºûast of America, in quantity and velocity propot- tiématé to the dimensions of such channels—Phoea, ldisbelieving the existence of any such current in the space ealled “Baffin's Sea,” by the Reviewer; rationally concluded that therefore there must be either lattd. or shoals north of that space. . . . . . otº : The subsequent proof of Baffin's veracity, and con- sequently there being in fact no such current, either there, or in the space westward, as far as Melville Island, proves, that there can be no channels of communi- cation in that space between the Polar Sea and the Atlantic, even for water in any considerable quantity; much less for ships. The Reviewer, however, is of a very different opinion. He thinks there may be a passage to the northward into the Polar sea through Wellingtºn Channel; because, when the ships passed its southéhn entrance, it was “free from every particle of ice; as far as the eye could reach, on a remarkably “eleakºday?” and therefore, if the ships had proceeded up that chaa- nel, whereverit led to, the sea beyond would also have been as clear and open. I admit it to be wery possible, that the northern opening of such channel may be found clear of ice, as well as the southern ; provided other tandslie to the northward of it. For one of my arga- mérits is, that the northern shores of all Arctic lands; qs well as the northern entrances of all channels; formed ºběiween them, if no land erist north of them, are; and Jöfnecessity must be, continually more or less eneum- bered with heavy polar ices; extending from those łkiadstowards the north polar axis of the globe. And that too, whether arounds it as a ceatre, there may ibe ‘sºme expanse of open sea, as the Reviewer, and *any J: ~ * * * * děj others supposteºitheutice, qiwhether there his shºw. Raountains, existing in regions near the Pelayeºgen- plored, the nucleus of which may be as ancientañíčhe £3rth itself, and its increase derived, from the 36s faſh;l Atmosphere combined"—for it is quite inmaterialºgy argument, which theory may be correct - The 9akºs I require are, first, the existence of heavy polariigº; and, secondly, the certain general movement of these ices, from the north towards the south, in all the ragions surrounding the Pole, as long as they are at liberty, to do so, by the combined influence of the polar gurrent, and winds, prevailing from the same quarter. These facts, it is quite, notorious, all parties are agreed its and have been acknowledged, over and over, again, by the Reviewer, , Mr. Scoresby, Mr. Barrow inºi, his Voyages into the Polar Regions, Mr. Fisher, and Capt. JPaloy, in their respective publications. The Quarterly Reviewer, in his notice of Capt. Parry's Voyage, seemed to be more than ever confirmed in his opinion 9f six open Polar Sea by that of Dr. Brewster, who, ºf after oamparing the results of the expedition, under, Capt. Rabºy with those he had drawn from a previous theory;” it of opinion, “that,the hopes which have been so, sea- isènably entertained of reaching the Pole itself, ºne thereby encouraged;” concluding that “the mean-tº- sperature of the Pole of the globe will beil 1% ingen- tiparably warmer than the regions, in which GºptºRaymy ‘spent the winter.” The Doctor adds, “if the Polºis (he) placed in an open sea, the difficulty of reachingidt entirely ceases.” . . . . . . . . , t :: w toº tod ... Thus, supported in his opinion of a clear, opeebabil navigable Polan Sea, by that of “all the ſcreenland- .nº,” (except Mr. Scoresby), and - the theory, eſtathe Data. Q 122 learned Doctor into the bargain, and having assured us, that he eonsidered “the knowledge acquired on the late bypedition to have afforded a sanguine hope \for the complete solution of the interesting question' oftā noth-west passage,” I must confess I expedited he had perhaps recommended the higher powers to mhake another attempt by way of the Pole: especially as all the original motives for sending Captain Buchan that way, must have been evidently strengthened in his find, by the recently acquired knowledge. Nothing in fact having happened that could possibly tend to weaken them, except Capt. Buchan's failure, owing “to one of those accidents to which all sea voyages are liable;” unless indeed Mr. Scoresby's book may have acted as a sort of damper to the “sanguine hope” in that quarter, if ever the Reviewer has condescended to read such passages as these. . . . . . . . . ; ) iſ ... At page 49 of Scoresby's account of the "Arctie Regions, he says, “Were the mean temperatüre of the Pole, indeed, above the freezing point of seal water, and the mean heat of latitude 78° as high as 33°6'r 84°, then the circumpolar seas would have a chance efºe. ing free from ice: but while the temperature of the former can be shown to be about 16°, and the latter 11” below the freezing temperature of the sea, webáñ have no reasonable ground, I conceive, for idbubting the continual presence of ice in all the regionimºſ. diately surrounding the Pole." And at page 543rººf the Hiësses of ice which usually prevent the advanče of Ylaſtigatºrs beyond the 82.Éd degree of north latitudebe ‘extended in a continued series to the Pole (of which, thless there be land in the way, I have no doubt); the expectation of reaching the Pôle by sea must be "alto- gether thimerical.” Now, if we take Mr. Scoresby'tb be 123 right, in his conjecture that “there is a continent officer. mountains in the regions near the Pole, tunless therestic land in the way,” what must there be between it and the place where Capt. Parry, wintered at, which, aceosd- ing to Dr. Brewster's theory, is 11° or 12° colder than the Pole, or, as the Reviewer says we may conclude; “one of the coldest spots on the face of the globe.” Ac- cording to Mr. Scoresby, in this case there must be a frozen Ocean, north of lands surrounding that Ocean, if there be no other land between them and the pole ; which is very far beyond, what Phoca has ventured to suppose, the ice extended. . On the other hand, aur oracle the Reviewer says, “If we suppose that clusters of Islands continue to be scattered over it (the Polar Sea) on all sides, to the very Pole, or its vicinity, we shall in that, case probably not be far from the fact, in concluding the whole of this extensive sea to be shal- lºw, ſchoked up with ice, and unnavigable.” According to this authority, then, this Polar Sea is to be choked up, with ice, if there be land. So that, take either view, or combine both, we can come at nothing but ice, icº, ice, all,along the northern shores of Arctic lands, and affroaen, ocean to some indefinite extent to the north- }*and of the northernmost of those lands. Being obliged, at this, rate, to give up the idea of any further attempts being...intended by way of the Pole, as perhaps, the Reviewer himself had done long before, I next con- sidered, what other particular knowledge had been, ºt- quired on the late expedition, to afford this “sanguine hope,” and whereabouts the Reviewer could reasºnably expect it to be realized. I could hardly supposerhe would recommend another trial to be made, ºthe northward in Baffin's Bay; “because, it is now ºwn that there is such a bay.” Ner by the route last pusºg 1%+. by Captai?arry, although; sofar, successfühy; because: “hedid not think that the strenuous, but tinsuccessº eiidddvors" of the late expedition, in two different sébiº soils, ºb penetrate to the westward'éf Melvillé Fălărſă: affbräed any hope that the passage will ever the effected in 'lkát particular parallel of latitude: nor by the Wéluſ lington Charine! “in the first instance,” though he says “it may be desirable to look at the state of the Polan' sea beyond it, hereafter.” But, above all others; it never could be supposed that he would recommend the attempt to be made by way of Hudson's Strait 'and Bay, who had reprobated the very idea from the first. Nay, he had recorded his decided opinion that “all former attempts had failed, because not one of thern was ëver made near that part of the coast of America; round which, it is most likely the passage would lead into the northern or 'frozen ocean,” a frozen oceañ (by the by), which he then believed to be without ite. . And because “hitherto most of our adventurers haveworked their way: through Hudson's Strait, which is generally chokéd, tip, with ice; then, standing to the northward, have had to contend with ice drifting to the southward, with contrafy winds and currents;” and “the most northerly straits and islands; which form the passages into Húdsön's Báy,” are of course never free from mountains iné patches of ice; and yet all navigators proceeding'66 discovery have either entered these Straits and had toºktruggleſ against the ice and currents, and tides' off the coast of America; or, &c.” . . . . . . . . . . . . -V. If we may judge from the late second fruitless at teinpt bf Capt. Parry, to discover a passage that way, the Reviewer's early judgment, in this' particular if- stance, has unfortunately been but too correct. . . . " giForgºalthough Captain Party did not, as far as the 125, newspapart telhºus, meet with ſanyigreaterséiffiqubies: than the annual ships of the North-West ſtºmpanyigant- rally do, in Hudson's Strait; yet, after entering bºldt, sqn's Bay, he, like most of our adventurers, had to conr. tend, not merely “with ice drifting to the southwardiº. but was obstructed in his advance towards: the NAW, by, the Repulse Bay of Middleton, whose testimony tº its existence, it appears, was doubted by himself as well as the reviewer, who says, Middleton “looked into what. heiwas pleased to call Repulse Bay:” a name, however, which has now become doubly appropriate, as well as the Bay of Baffin. . It may be allowed us to presumeſ that the Quarterly Reviewer, who recorded his decided judgment against making any future attempt, where all-former ones had failed, could not have been consulted before. it was 'resolved to send 'Captain Parry by that very route. For, as nothing had been done, or become kaown, between the years 1817 and 1821, to alter the grounds qf his judgment in that particular, he could not, it may be supposed, have been so inconsistent as to have approved in the latter year, what he so decidedly gendemned in the former. He may, however, have been persuaded to coneur in the opinion of others, contrary to what appears to have been his own better judgment in this particular instance. Indeed the writer, of the Øritique, on Captain Parry's first Woyage, in the 49th Nal qf the Quarterly Review, says, (whilst the last exh pedition was pending.) Captain Parry, “hasºregonded his opinion in favour of its accomplishment, and hiºssº gestion has no doubt been adopted on the present Yby- age:” and “it can scarcely be doubted then, that the attempt is now about to be made; as recommanded ly Captain Parry; in a more southeralatituder and close along the north coast of America, where they may rea- 126 sepably hope to meet, withº, hºtter summer climate, and allºggºr season for their operations, by at least six Weekº, . . . . . . . . ...iſ. . . . . * witHere then, we find that the sanguine hope' was fully expected to be realized an the north coast of America, if Captain Parry had been fortunate enough to reach it by way of Hudson's Bay, and any of its northern straits. But he found, those he examined, blocked up with ice, which, the Reviewer told us long ago they were ‘naver free from,’., I, have not heard, whether any of the Re- viewer's fºrmountains qfice’ were met with there. . Howt ºver, we shall hear when Captain Parry's account of his last voyage comes out, which I am very anxious to sea, in the hopf, of getting some more light thrown on the subject; though I must confess that hope is not very san- guineas far,as regards what may, or may not, be herºn after effected along the north coast of America. In the meantime, whilst the next expedition is pending, which I.am told is to proceed by way, of Lancaster Saund and down Prince Regent's Inlet, towards that coast, let ºtry, the strength and solidity of, the reasons, given by the Reyiewer, in his critique on Captain Parry's voyage, as well as these published by Captain Parry himself...The Reviewer in many passages has nearly quoted that offin cer's, words, and as some of his opinions are the sama, (though others, Very different,) they may be considered, aş jºintly, belonging, to both : the one by original filgº gestion, and the other by adoption.. I shall quºte fºam, bºthmānd occasionally compare them together, drawing swgh conclusions from the, data they furnish, as shall. appear to mºto be fair and legitimate; and wherever thºse are at all at variance with, or, tend to undermine, their own arguments, such discordance shall be pointed Oºſe , , ) ºr /, ºr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .” 11, i. * - - . . j , } } f : 127 In the first place, Captain Parry says, at page 142, “I began to consider whether it would not be advisable, whenever the ice would allow us to move, to sacrifice a few miles of the westing we had already made, and run along the margin of the floes, in order to endeavour to find an opening leading to the southward; by taking ad- vantage of which we might be enabled to prosecute the voyage to the westward in a lower latitude. I was the more inclined to make this attempt from its having longbe- come evident to us, that the navigation of this part of the Polar Sea is only to be performed by watching the occa- sional openings between the ice and the shore: and that therefore a continuity of land is essential, if not absolutely necessary for the purpose. Such a continuity of land, which was here about to fail us, must necessarily be fur- nished by the northern coast of America, in whatever latitude it may be found.” Again, at page 297, Captain Parry says, “Our experience, I think, has clearly shown that the navigation of the Polar Seas can never be per- formed with any degree of certainty without a continuity of land. It was only by watching the occasional openings between the ice and the shore that our late progress to the westward was effected, and had the land continued in the desired direction, there can be no question that we should have continued to advance, however slowly, towards the completion of our enterprise.” “In this respect therefore, as well as in the improvement to be ex- pected in the climate, there would be a manifest advantage in making the attempt on the coast of America, where we are sure that land will not fail us.” In both these "ex- tracts it is declared that a continuity of land is essentidº, if not absolutely necessary. A continuity, where?"and how situated, as to the westward course to be steered by ships ? Why a continuity, such as the North Georgian 4128 Islands, lying contiguous to each other, neatly east and west, on a parallel, north, or on the starboard hand of that course. But why should it lie in that direction, and be situated north of that course 2 Because such a continuity did in fact enable the ships to proceed as far only to the westward as it extended, but no farther. How did it enable them to do so 7 By protecting them from polarices, such as were met with at the westend of Mel- ville Island; where, Captain Parry says, “had the land continued in the desired direction, there can be no question that we should have continued to advance towards the completion of our enterprise.” The Quarterly Reviewer says, “the heavy ice found there was owing probably to the discontinuance of land, or to the prevailing northerly winds having driven down the main body of ice and wedged it in among the Islands.” This was a discontinu- ance of land on the north of the ship's course; and the acknowledgment of the ice “having been driven down” implies the belief that there must be a fertile supply from that quarter, and what Captain Parry terms a power in constant operation of “enormous pressure” to have thus “wedged it in among the Islands.” Mr. Fisher, whom I have quoted before, seems to have had a much clearer conception of this matter, at the time and place, than any of his shipmates. His words are decidedly to the point, at page 99: “I think it is pro- bable, as long as we find land to the northward, to stop the polar ice from drifting down upon us, that we shall find a passage to the westward along the land. I do not mean, however, to say that a passage will, without any interruption, be constantly found to exist between the land and the ice: on the contrary, I am aware that a southerly wind may give us occasional checks, by forcing the ice in with the coast; but immediately the *{º} swind changes to the opposite direction, it will netº- ‘Āarily have, the contrary, effect. This is nothiadesda matter, of speculation, nor de Hintend it, to be cºnsi- dered as such ; for both this and the last year's experi- ence have afforded us so many instances of the truth of what I have said, that I have no hesitation in giving it as my opinion, that the vicinity of land to, the north- wºrd will always be in our favor. My object.in being so particular on this point is, because there are some amongst us of quite a different opinion.” Mr. Fisher does not particularly name any who thus differed from him in this opinion, which he had so justly formed; but it would appear that Captain Parry himself, before he reached Wellington Channel, regarded this “continuity toº land to the northward” of him, with “uneasiness, prin- cipally from the possibility that it might take a turn £o the southward and unite with the coast of America;” hot, being then aware, as he afterwards learnt by ex- perience that such continuity was “essential, if notab- ºutely neteasary, for the navigation of this part of the Rºlas Sea;”, and as I dare say it will be for the navi- gation ºf that part of it, from the meridian of Prince JRegent's Inlet to that of Icy Cape. ‘. . . . ...aſ Mehave seen already where and what this continuity , Waggas well as its importance to the ships, as, farias, it extended. , That importance was fully, proved by the insurmountable icy obstruction which, they met with ſat;its, western extremity. And yet Captain Parry says, and the Reviewer repeats it; 'Such continuity, of iºd as was here about to failus, wustºnecessarily befumishad by the northern coast of America, in whateverlatitude it may be found.”. . . . . . . . . . . , s: , ſ: ... “There would be a waniſast 4dvantage in making the * Konºthe cºast of America, whers we are sure ta. R J30 that land will not fail wº.” If the Reviewer alone had made such an observation as the first, it need not have surprised one; but that Captain Parry himself, with the facts of his experience before him, should not only have written but published the same, is indeed somewhat, unexpected; for the two eases cannot possibly have any feature alike, except as regards the term continuity applied to them, and perhaps being so, in both having a direction nearly east and west. Though there must be continuity of land on the coast of America, yet surely it cannot be such a continuity as that formed by the North Georgian Islands, which failed Captain Parry at the west end of Melville Island: because the coast of America is on the larboard hand, or to the southward of ships steering to the westward, and consequently to deeward, as the prevailing winds are from the northward. On the contrary, the continuity formed by the North Georgian Islands is to the northward, or on the star- board hand, of ships so steering, and therefore to wind. ward. As to situation, then, they are only as opposite as north and south. But in other and far more im- portant points they are quite the reverse of each other, The chain of lands extending from Baffin's Bay, on the north of the passage discovered by Captain Parry, acted as a barrier against the polar ices, which, it is confessed by all the authorities I quote, are driven from north to south by the combined power of the pºlar current and “the prevailing northerly winds.” . The sºuthern sheres of those lands being weather shores, (othaving the wind blowing from them) were conse- stently found te be comparatively free from ice. Nor in truth was there, in the whole extent of that passage, any such heavy pelar ice met with, as was found near the west end of Melville Island. But what was the state of the northern coast of Melville Island, which was a lee ſ 13). shore, as the winds are proved to prevail? Captaiº Parry has told us what he observed at Point Nias. Nay, what was the state of the shores facing the north of the lands forming the south side of that passage, and extending from Prince Regent's Inhet to Banks's land, at what- ever distance those lands may be from the North Geor- gian Islands? Those lands were not seen all the way in continuity, but there must be land there sufficiently contiguous to prevent the field ice even from moving fur- ther to the southward than it was observed to do from the North Georgian Islands; and if there should be no land nearer to those Islands than the coast of America itself, that coast must be the impediment, and the ice will be, in all human probability, found to be continuous quite to that coast. Now, let us see what answer Captain Parry will furnish to the last question, as to the state of the ice to the southward. ft has already been seen, at page 142 of Captain Parry's Voyage, that, when he first met with such decided obstruction, near the west end of Melville Island, he “was desirous of finding an opening in the ité leading to the southward, by taking advantage of which, he might be enabled to prosecute the voyage to the westward in a lower latitude.” At page 250, he de- seribes the ice to the W. and W.S.W. of Cape Dundas, from whence, it being 1000 feet high, the view of it must have been very extended. “It was as solid and compact as so much land; no passage in that direction was yet to be expected; the only clear-water in sight was a channel of about three-quarters of a mile wide, between the ice and the land.”—At page 259, on the 26th of August, when he cast off from the ice, and made all sail to the eastward, he says, “We kept close along the edge of the ice, which was quite compact to 132 ###hºrd, without the smallest appearance of an open. ig"tº encourage a hope of penetrating in that direction.” Å; 261, when in lat. 72° 2' 15" and long. 105° ſº he says, “A constant look-out was kept from thé crow's-nest, for an opening to the southward; but not a'single break could be perceived in the mass of ice which still covered the sea in that direction.” And on the fol: lowing day, the 28th of August, he adds, “The ice tº the southward, along which we continued to sail this day, was composed of floes, remarkable for their extra- ordinary length and continuity: some of them not having a single break or crack for miles together, though their height' above the sea was generally not more than 12 inches, and their surface as smooth and even as a bowling-green; forming a striking contrast to the ice to which we had lately been accustomed more westerly.” On the 30th of August, he says, “Havin now traced the ice the whole way; from long. 114° to 90° without discovering any opening to encourage a hope of penetrating to the southward, I could not entertain the slightest doubt that there no longer remained a possibility of effecting our object.” Does Captain Parry then, with facts like these before his eyes, really mean to say, that a continuity of land, south of the westerly course to be steered towards Behring's Strait, is in any point, except the two I have mentioned, such as one to the north of it? Suppose, for instance, that, After he entered Lancaster Sound, there had been no lihdºwhatever to the northward, between him and the Pöle, and that the land to the southward from Cape Byam Martin to Banks's Land, or even to Behring's Strait, was continuous; I would ask him candidly, to say; if he believes he could have advanced to the west- ward beyond even the 80th degree of longitude? 133 * * > Would he have found that continuity, such as the pºë W to the northward, whose existence alone enabled him tº reach the 114th meridian? But the Quarterly Review would perhaps answer for him : “Yes, he . only have made as much westing as he did, but he would have reached Behring's Strait; because he would have entered my ‘Polar basin, where there would have been no ice to impede his progress.” And yet the Reviewer acknowledges that “the ice found about the S.W. extremity of Melville Island, was owing proba- bly to the discontinuance of land, or to the prevailing northerly winds having driven down the main body, and wedged it in among the Islands!” May I ask him then to give me any sound reason, why the same combined causes should not have produced the same effects, if that discontinuance had taken place in the same parallel on any other meridian, between Baffin's Bay and 114° west longitude 1 and why it may not take place at the west end of Arctic lands, on any meridians west of that longitude, and in parallels even south of Melville Island, IF No oth ER LAND's should happen to be situated to the Northward of them again? He, how- ever, I dare say, will not allow the inference that must be drawn from his own admission: for in the face of that admission, and in support of his firm belief still, that there is an open Polar Sea, notwithstanding ice “is driven to the southward” from thence, where the supply must consequently come from, he gives the authority of Captain Parry, who, he says, “has no doubt of an open sea to the westward of Melville Island; as whole fields of ice, interminable to the sight, were observed to be moving bodily to the westward for days together: Captain Parry may have told him so, for aught I know; but as far as I can find, what he has published in, his 134 Voyage does not seem to me to amount to quite so much as this. At page 86, Captain Parry does, to be sure, :::: sóñething about a strong westerly current, which by tºby, though perhaps it was only a temporary one, is not much in proof of the existence, there at least, of the Reviewer's famous circumvolving current between the Pacific and Atlantic from west to east, if, as he supposes, there be a passage for it. But this fact is not at variance with Phoca's circumvolving current in that direction. For he does not insist on there posi- tively being a passage for it (though there may be,) any where, but along the northern shores of circumpolar lands, if it cannot pass between them, till it rounds the north point of Greenland, and finds its way down its east coast towards the Atlantic. Captain Parry says, “On the 17th September, the current, which for the last two days had been setting to the westward, and which could not possibly have escaped our observation had it existed previously to the late westerly and north-westerly gales, was here found to be running stronger than we had before remarked it.—This was made particularly obvious when, having reached the farthest point west- ward to which we could possibly venture to carry the ships, we were obliged to heave to, in order to watch for an opening that might favor our views; the ships were at this time drifting to leeward through the water, at the rate of about a mile and a quarter an hour, i. of which, they went so fast to the westward by the land, that Lieutenant Beechey and myselfestimated the current to be running at least two miles an hour in that direction. I must here remark, that besides the $urrent to which I have now alluded, and by which # , * M & Y lº * thº, floes and heavy masses 'appeared to be affected; iſ J. i : * * * A * j c ſº y ! • . . . * * thºre was, as usual in this navigation, a superficial curé t r * . iſ. * - * * J -} f { . -* **** 135 rent also, setting the smaller pieces past the othèrs, at a much quicker rate. Of the causes which now pro- duced this strong westerly current, at a time when the contrary might rather have been anticipated, it is of course not easy, with our present limited experience of this part of the Polar Sea, to offer any very probable conjecture; but the impression on our minds, at the time, was, that it was perhaps caused by the reaction of the water, which had been forced to the eastward, in the early part of the late gales, against the ice, with which the sea was almost entirely covered in that direc- tion. Be this as it may, we did not fail to draw from it one conclusion, which was favorable to the object we had in view, namely, that the drift of so large a body of ice for days together in a westerly direction, indi-, cated a considerable space of open sea somewhere in that direction.” As to this open space of sea to the westward, it is only necessary to observe here, that as it appears, from other previous remarks, that the tides were here very regular, though it is not made to appear so clear at times, whether the flood was from east or west, at all events the floating ice was carried by them, sometimes one way, and sometimes the other. The currents also are stated, as setting sometimes to the east- ward, and as such ice must have been carried by them, in that direction, “the large body of it which was drifting to the westward, for days together,” might have been only g returning back, to fill up the space it had before per- haps occupied there, by means of what Captain Pärty calls “the reaction of the water, which had been forcé * to the eastward in the early part of the late ales." * the following year, when Captain Parry h d gained more experience in the vicinity of the S.W. extremity of Melville Island, he speaks very differently on" 136 subjeet of an 'open sea to the westward of Melville Island!" He says: “We had been lying near our pre- sent-situation, with an easterly wind blowing fresh for thirty-six hours together, and although this was considerably off the land, beyond the western point of land now in sight, the ice had not, during the whole of that time, moved a single yard from the shore ; affording a. proof that there was no space in which the ice was at liberty to move to the westward, and offering a single and striking exception to our former experience.” Captain Parry's former experience, however, was not obtained quite so far to the westward, as it was at the time when this single and striking exception occurred. Captain Ross was instructed “carefully to avoid com- ing near the coast of America, in order to give it a good offing,” for, says the Reviewer, “had it been intended that he should ascertain its position, his instructionis, we have no doubt, would have directed him to probeed up the Welcome, and endeavor to pass through Middlé- ton's Frozen STRAIT; whereas the object clearly was to avoid being entangled with the shoals arid islandºahd ice, on the northern shores of America, which, by the vague accounts of Hearne and Mackenzie, are very similar to the northern shores of Siberia.” The Reviewer too acknowledged that he had less apprehension of the passage through Behring's Strait being closed against our navigators, except by ice, than of the diffieulties which they may probably have to encounter on this side of America.” No wonder then, if he had any influence in the deliberations at the Admiralty, that, in order' to avoid these, Captain Parry was instructed to proceed by way of Lancaster Sound, and “if it should be found to connect itself with the northern sea, he was to make the best of his way to Behring's Strait; notatall doubt- ºt 137 ing but that sea would be found free from ice, anding- Yigable the whole, way. We have seen the result, ofthat voyage. With that result the Reviewer's resourges seem to have failed him, and he very prudently giyes, up the cudgel to Captain Parry ; and though he seems, to have had a fearful hankering after Middleton's Frozen Strait, or Repulse Bay, which he disbelieved quite as much as he did the existence of Baffin's Bay, yet after what he had said and published he could not well recommend it himself, as a next place of trial. He therefore informs us that “the attempt was to be made as recommended by Captain Parry, in a more southern latitude, and close on the coast of America.” This was preferred to a route through Prince Regent's Inlet, on account of the delay which would necessarily be occasioned by proceeding so far. to the northward, as Sir James Lancaster's Sound, in order to get into that inlet. . . This last attempt has also failed, but with this “advan- tage” gained, as the Reviewer would say ; that we now do know there is such a Bay as the Repulse Bay of Mid- dleton; and as to “the difficulties which our navigators Would probably have to encounter on this side of Ame- rica,” he has been a true prophet for once. And now, as the Reviewer says, “comes the question to be solved as to the best and shortest route to get upon the coast of America. From the appearance and circumstances, at the southern part of Prince Regent's Inlet, there was not a man in the late expedition, who was not convinced that it opened out into the sea, which washes the northern coast of that continent” ºf This route however did not, it seems, hold out sugh a fair prospect of success, as that taken last through Hudson's Strait, as the latter was “recommanded by Capt. Parry himself; and the Reviewer “thought.tit Data. S 138 probable that either Hudson's Strait, Sir Thos. Roe's Welcome, or Repulse Bay, or all of them, might afford navigable passages into the Polar Sea.” These then, with “the knowledge acquired on the former expedi- tion,” afforded that “sanguine hope” for the complete solution of “the interesting problem of a north-west pas- sage.” The route which last failed, was then of course considered “the best and shortest, to get upon the coast of America.” That by way of Lancaster Sound, and down Prince Regent's Inlet, where the present attempt, it is said, will be made, may therefore be termed the forlorn hope, whether it may turn out to be the best or not. As the last expedition failed in reaching the north coast of America, the arguments of the Reviewer and Capt. Parry, in favor of the route along that coast, are of course equally applicable to it in the attempt now to be made there. We will therefore proceed to examine them. - { i & In the first place ; if Capt. Parry should succeed in getting through Prince Regent's Inlet, and to the south- ward of the land forming its west side ; and if that land should trend nearly on a parallel, so as to be in con- tinuity nearly, or to join Banks's Land, he will, in all probability, find just as little difficulty in advancing as far as the west end of that land, along its southern shore, as he did to that of Melville Island. But, if there should happen to be a large space to the westward of Banks's Land, without any land, and none between it and the north coast of America, it is as proba- ble that he will find the whole of that space filled with ices and unnavigable, either to the west or south: and for the same reasons that he could do neither in the whole space between Melville Island and Banks's Land. 139 But admitting that Capt. Parry should get on the north coast of America, what then 2 Why, he says, and the Reviewer also, there “will be a manifest advantage gained, in making the attempt along the northern coast of America, as he will there be certain of a continuity of land. Arrived on the coast of America, and no ob- struction from land, we,” says the Reviewer, “see no reason why the passage to Icy Cape, which does not exceed 1500 miles, might not easily be accomplished in one season ; about 600 of these were actually run on the last voyage in six days;” but that was from the west- ward, quite the wrong way. He should have added, that “it required five weeks to traverse that distance when going in the opposite direction,” to the westward or to- toards Behring's Strait, as Capt. Parry did. If, as I think, I have shown that there would have been no advantage gained by making the passage to the west- ward, along the northern shores of the lands extending from Prince Regent's Inlet to Banks's Land, provided the North Georgian Islands had not existed ; what “mani- fest advantage,” then, can be expected, on the north coast of America, if there should happen not to be lands situated to the northward of it again, along its whole er- tent to Behring's Strait, to keep off those Polar ices, which it is acknowledged by all do, in fact, drift to the southward 2 If there should be any extent of it with- out such protection, what is to prevent the advance of such ices, even to that coast ! I may be told that “the summer climate there will be so much warmer,” that they will dissolve before they reach it. The Reviewer says, “Supposing the theory of Dr. Brewster to be correct which assigns the greatest degree of cold to the mag- netic meridian, the most serious obstruction from ice will probably occur from 90° to 100° of west longitude; or (setting aside that theory) about midway of the 140 coast, as being the most distant point from the two Oceans; it being well known from experience, that the proximity of a permanently open sea is a circumstance which, of all others, in high latitudes, tends the most to temper the severity of the climate.” In this doctrine the Reviewer and Capt. Parry so perfectly agree, that, in speaking of it, they are mutual echoes to each other, But this is only an opinion, a mere assertion, dictated by hope, rather than founded on experience, in a situa- tion so remote from either ocean. The Reviewer “takes for granted,” what scarcely admits of a doubt, “that the action of the sun's rays, so much more power- ful and radiated from so much more land, along the continuous coast of America, than along the passage discovered by Parry, will produce the same effect of opening a clear channel of water between the coast and the ice,” by effecting its dissolution... Capt. Parry, says, “Should the sea on the coast of America be found moderately deep, and shelving towards, the shore,” (which from the geological character of the known parts of the continent to the south, and of the Georgian Islands to the north, there is reason to believe would be the case, for a considerable distance to the westward,) the facility of navigation would be much increased, on account of the grounding of the heavy masses of ice in water sufficiently deep to allow ships, to take shelter behind them, at such times as the foes closein upon the land.” Capt. Parry then, it would appear, does not expect much advantage to be gained from the dissolution of the ice, as he admits the “heavy masses"may bethere to take the ground, and “floes to close in upon the land.” He is not so sanguine on this point, therefore, as the Reviewer; nor can Mr. Barrow be, who, having given this subject much of his attention, may be considered high authority, , He says, at page 141 . gº 373 of his Voyages to the Polar Regions, “In fact, the ice-bergs, and those vast fields of ice which float about on the sea and are wafted down by currents into the Atlantic, are chiefly formed on coasts, and in bays, in narrow straits, and at the mouths of great rivers. The whole coast of Siberia is a fertile source of this supply,” [on the authority of the Russians I dare say: I wonder what becomes of them all, now the door is shut against them by the land to the northward of Davis's Strait.] , “The multitude of large rivers which fall into the Polar Sea, by carrying down the alluvial earth, have formed numerous and expansive and shallow bays of fresh water, which in the course of the winter become so many solid masses of ice. As the sources of these rivers, and a great part of their course, are in more southern latitudes; where they never freeze, the water they sup- ply is, in the winter, dammed up near the mouth, and ice-bergs are formed, which, when broken loose, are drifted out to sea. In the same manner the field ice is formed in the straits, and bays, and on shallow coasts, which, when set afloat in the spring, is carried out into the sea : in this situation it is drifted about till, heaped piece on piece, and driven about, it again fives itself among archipelagos of islands, on shallow coasts, and in straits, bays; and inlets, where each field becomes a nucleus for an increasing accumulation, as in the straits of Belleisle and Behring, for instance, and in every part of Hudson's Bay down to the latitude of 50°.” * “Now, to be sure, if this be the case, there can be no dissolution of ices on the north coast of America, and as the wind, it appears, prevails generally from the north- ward, they cannot be carried out to sea in its teeth s so that at this rate, on such authority at least, it must be con- *. 142 tinually encumbered with ices, whether those from the northern ocean find access to it or not. How indeed can such “an increasing accumulation” of ice be dis- solved at all, when in Hudson's Bay, so much further to the southward, there is an “increasing accumulation:” nay, even “in the Strait of Belleisle !!” But then the Quarterly Reviewer and Captain Parry will turn round on Mr. Barrow and me, and say, that all this may be so, but “it can scarcely be doubted that the climate on the north coast of America will be found to improve, and the obstruction become less, as the ships advance towards the Pacific. Besides, it is well known that the western coast of every continent and large island (even of our own) enjoys a higher temperature by many degrees than the eastern coast in the same parallels of latitude.” As a fact, this is true with regard to northern extra tropical continents, whose western coasts have a much higher mean temperature than the eastern. “This difference is extremely striking between the west- ern coast of North America, and the opposite eastern coast of Asia. Mr. Daniel explains it, by the heat evolved in the condensation of vapour swept from the surface of the ocean by the western winds. This general current, in its passage over the land, deposits more and more of its aqueous particles, and by the time that it arrives upon the eastern coasts is extremely dry: as it moves onward, it bears before it the humid atmosphere of the intermediate seas, and arrives upon the opposite shores in a state of saturation. Great part of the vapour is there at once precipitated, and the temperature of the climateraised by the evolution of its latent heat.” I ap- prehend, however, that little of this effect will be found to ameliorate the climate on the north coast of America much to the eastward of Behring's Strait, owing to the 143 probable proximity and immense quantity of ices to the north, from whence frigid winds prevail to counteract it. And therefore that the rule will not perhaps be found so applicable to the eastern and western sides of Arctic lands, as it doubtless is to those of extra tropical conti- nents more to the southward. But before the question comes to further proof, which there is much reason to hope it may, by means of the intended land eagedition, let us try it by the test of the few recorded observations hitherto made on the temperature of the east coast of Greenland, in Hudson's Bay, and Behring's Strait, as earireme points in the case. For the first, we will take the authority of Mr. Scoresby, in his Voyage to Green- land, published in 1822, who says, at page 204, after he had landed in Scoresby's Sound: “The heat among the rocks was most oppressive, so much so that my excursion was greatly contracted by the painful languor which the uncommonly high temperature produced. Unfortunately I had no thermometer with me, but I think the temperature could not be below 70°; to my feelings it was equal to the greatest heat of summer in England.” This was on the 25th of July, to the north- ward of latitude 70°. In Hurry's Inlet, he says, “that Mr. Lloyd experienced a degree of heat as oppressive to his feelings as he ever suffered either in the East or West Indies, to which torrid regions he had been a frequent visitor.” “It so far overcame some of his men who had attempted to climb an adjoining hill, that they could not proceed, but lying down, fell fast asleep,” &c. “The superior heat of the land to that of the sea was most remarkable and striking; when the temperature on shore was not less than 70°, the thermometer on board the ship, even near the shore in Scoresby's Sound, never rose, I believe, in the shade above 40°.” - 144 The Quarterly Reviewer tells us that, “almost every voyager into Hudson's and Baffin's Seas complains of the occasional hot weather and the great annoyance of mosquitoes on the shores. Duncan, when surrounded with ice, had the thermometer in August at 56° in the , shade, and 82° in the sun.” It is not said what latitude this was in, but it must have been to the southward of 65°. So much for the temperature on the eastern side of Greenland and America. For that on the west side, and not further north, we will see what Lieutenant Kotzebue found it to be in Behring's Strait, and also in the shallow sound bearing his name, which being almost surrounded by land, may very naturally be expected to have the temperature of its water, as well as that of the atmosphere, considerably raised by the radiation of heat from it. On the 26th of July, when near the St. Lawrence Islands (situated to the southward of Behring's Strait, and between Asia and America,) and in latitude 63° N. the temperature of the air was 53° 8', and of the surface of the sea, 41° 2'. In Kotzebue Sound, in lat. 633° and long. 162°, from the 2d to the 13th of August, the mean temperature of the air was about 63%, and that of the sea water about 52°. On the 19th of August, in latitude 66° 16' N. and a little to the northward of East Cape, the temperature of the air was 44°, and the sea water 35° 8'. These few facts will not lead any one in his senses to conclude that the waters of the Pacific, which at the surface are of a temperature of 70° or 80°, could possibly have composed any of the fluid here. Neither do they prove that the climate of the western coast of America is “higher by many degrees than the eastern,” at least on equal parallels, though somewhat higher in latitude 68° than 70° on the east side of Greenland. This western part of America, forming the east side 145 of Behring's Strait ought of course, according to the rule of the Reviewer and Captain Parry, to be the warmest part of it on an equal parallel. Yet, being of so low a temperature as it appears to be, on what ground can it be believed that there will be a better cli- mate further to the eastward, on the north coast, than there is here 2. Nay, by their own rule, must it not be progressively colder from Icy Cape all the way to their point of greatest frigidity and obstruction, about “mid- way of the coast !” Or to the one supposed by Dr. Brewster to be “situated in about 80° N. latitude and 100° W. longitude " .. . . . . W. “ . I must, however, take the liberty of borrowing one of the Reviewer's own arguments to prove, that the cli- mate “from midway,” on the north coast of America, towards the Pacific, can not be milder than it has been experienced at its western extremity. . . . ! - , , , . " * In the beginning of the year 1818, he took much pains to 'show that the temperature of our olimate in England was lower in the three summer months, of 1816 and 1817, by from 11° to 20°, than it had been in corresponding months of 1805, 1806, and 1807—that “the remarkable chilliness of the atmosphere, in the summer months of those two years, was owing to the appearance of ice in the Atlantic”—that “it would be a waste of words to enter into any discussion on the diminution of temperature, which must necessarily be occasioned by the provimity of vast mountains, and islands of ice;” in short, that the westerly winds...did in fact acquire an unusually, frigorific charactºry by having passed over, a few icebergs; drifting to, the southward in the Atlantic, at the distance, of some, hundreds of miles from the British;Isles; What then. must be the character of winds in... the circumpolar Data. l T 146. Arctic sea, if they “prevail generally from the narth fº And what their influence on the climate of the whole north coast of America, upon which they blow, and the ice drifts; it being a lee shore ? That the winds, judging theoretically, should prevail from the northward in the Arctic regions, is perhaps indisputable; and, though the Reviewer has admitted it to be so, yet it is as well to establish the fact by the testimony of navigators in that quarter of the globe. o Mr. Scoresby, from a mean of nine years' observation in the Spitzbergen sea, in the months of April and May, has “estimated the frigid winds passing over ice, to be in proportion to the mild winds blowing from the sea, as 173 N. to 69 S.” In Baffin's Bay, it appears by Captain Ross's register, that the northerly winds were in proportion to the southerly, as 75 to 59—the easterly and westerly, as 62 E. to 65 W.-And on an examination of Captain Parry's register of the winds for 448, days between July 1849, and September 1820, the northerly winds were in proportion to the southerly, as 316 N. to 140 S.; and the easterly to the westerly, as 118 E. to 245 W. or thereabouts. So that if any ice be either formed along the north coast of America, or drive down upon it by these winds, “prevailing, as they do, from the northward and westward,” and a Polar current from the same quarter, I should like to know by what possible means it can be expected to be cleared of it, ercept by the effect of heat ž Or, if that which perhaps may be so dissolved is, as I believe, replaced constantly, though probably imperceptibly, by the tendency of the whole body to move southward, (whe- ther it extends five or ten, or any number of degrees. to the northward, towards the Pole,) how that north coast, or the north or west coasts of any lands, on any 147 parallels and meridians between the N.W. part of Greenland and Melville Island, can be otherwise than perpetually encumbered with ice, provided no other land be between them and the Pole & But more especially so, if we admit also the effect of the Reviewer's circumvolv- ing current from the Pacific, to be “rushing in” through Behring's Strait with “the greatest velocity :” for as that current is bound to the Atlantic, it must set to the eastward from thence, and carry along with it floating masses of ice. . -: - Lieutenant Kotzebue says: “The direction Öf the current was always N.E. in Behring's Strait, and stronger on the Asiatic than on the American coast. I estimate the current on the Asiatic coast in the chan- nel, at the greatest depth, to be three miles an hour, when the wind blew fresh from the south. The con- stant N.E. direction of the current in Behring's Strait proves that the water meets with no obstruction, and consequently a passage must exist, though perhaps not adapted to navigation:” and believing, in consequence of what our Quarterly Reviewer had told him, that the current in Baffin's Bay runs to the south, he thought “no doubt can remain that the mass of water which flows into Behring's Strait takes its course round America, and returns through Baffin's Bay into the ocean.”—Mr. Von Chamisso, the naturalist, who was with Kotzebue in the Rurick, is not quite so positive, nor so sanguine: for he says, “After we had tried to prove that a current goes to the north through Behring's Strait, we must confess that it is too weak, and can force but too little water through the narrow entrance, to correspond with those currents which flow from Davis's Strait, and along the east coast of Greenland, towards the south.” This gentleman too, it seems, believed, at the time he wrote this, in the Reviewer's eurrent down 148 “Baffin's Sea,” which we have seen had no existence but in his own fertile imagination. . . . . . . . . . Captain Burney supposed “the current in Behring's Strait to be periodical ; were it perpetual,” said he, “its moderate rate through a channel neither wide nor deep, could contribute little towards a current in the Greenland seas.” Very little, truly—and perhaps has nothing to do with the current in the Spitzbergen sea. We have seen, from the testimony of Mr. Scoresby junior, that the current there is perpetual. Indeed, from the united testimony of hundreds besides, there can be no doubt of the fact of a constant current from the northward, out of the Polar Sea, towards the Atlantic Ocean : and because it is exactly such an effect as must of necessity result from physical causes ori- ginating in heat and cold on the globe. This, too, being the only effect of that cause hitherto dis- covered in the Arctic regions, has appeared to me to be, of all others, the strongest argument against the practicability at least—nay, almost the existence of a passage for ships from the Atlantic into (what I under- stand by) the Polar Sea, on any parallel and meridian, from the N.W. part of Greenland to Melville Island. The space between Melville Island and the coast of America, to Behring's Strait, still remains to be explored by ships. To that space the same argument is appli- cable under the like circumstances. For, should a similar effect (the certain result of the same eause) not be found there, the same conclusion must follow—Im- practicability. ' , * * , But further, even if such similar current should be hereafter discovered flowing from the Polar Sea, somewhere within that space, towards the Atlantic, between insulated lands; it may indeed prove the existence of a passage, perhaps under the ice, for water 149 and fish, like that between Melville Island and Banks's Land, without proving its practicability for ships. Be- cause, as such current must of necessity be from the north or west, or both, it will in all probability close up the narrower passages with ice. Even admitting then the circumvolving current of the Reviewer (not from the Pacific, but) from Behring's Strait to the east- ward, to be flowing towards the Atlantic by way.of channels yet unexplored between Melville Island and the coast of America, if these channels should not be sufficiently wide to allow the heavier masses and fields of ice to pass through with the current, from the northward, or westward, or both ; the natural conse- quence, I should apprehend, must be an accumulation of icy obstruction at the northern and western openings of such channels; as was the case in the space between the west end of Melville Island and Banks's Land, and since that time, in the Strait of the Fury and Hecla. And this, too, on the same principle, and for the same reason, that a grating placed across a stream would cause an accumulation of such floating substances as could not pass through it, on the side neart its source. At the same time, it must be observed, that even the future proof of such current from the northward or westward, from the Polar Sea, or along the northern coast of America, will not in the least tend to prove that either the one or the other has the waters of the Pacific Ocean for its source, as has been so wildly con- jectured : for the waters of that ocean can have no more to do with it, as a cause of its eristence in ºny part of the north circumpolar regions, (except through the medium of evaporation and a northerly movement in the atmosphere,) than the man in the moon. 150 I have not yet been able to learn whether any cur- rent from the westward, of a permanent character, was met with under the ice, in the Strait of Fury and Hecla. But if there was, it may be considered (accord. ing to the view I have taken of the subject) as a cir- cumstance unfavorable to success. . . . There is another fact mentioned in the Appendix to Captain Franklin's account of his journey to the mouth of the Copper-Mine River, which tends to prove that the climate to the westward of the meridian (113° 6) of Fort Enterprise, is colder than that to the eastward of it. He says, “The easterly winds predominate in the country to the northward of the Great Slave Lake; and whilst they blow, the weather is milder than during the westerly winds. The coldest, and I may add the strongest wind, in every season, in this country, is the north-west.” . . . Now, if the westerly winds in the summer months of 1816 and tò17 were so remarkably chilled, in their way to our shores, by passing over a few icebergs in the Atlantic, as to reduce the temperature of the cli- mate of Great Britain from 11 to 20 degrees, the Re- viewer can have no objection, I presume, to admit that the westerly winds to the northward of the Great Slave Lake must have come from a colder climate, westward of the 113th meridian, than that could possibly be to the eastward of it, from whence the winds, Captain Franklin says, were milder. In short, that they were frigified too, somewhere and somehow, on their pas- sage. And as ice was the cause of the unusual chilli- ness of our westerly winds here, by the Reviewer's own argument, therefore, the cokler character of the westerly and north-westerly winds, to the northward rj H of the Great Slave Lake, must have been owing to the same cause too; the abundance of ice in the direction from whence these winds came. And as even westerly winds had this cold character, some of this ice, it may. be supposed, was as far to the southward as the coast of America: fot on a flat shelving shore, such as parts of the “north coast may be, it is impossible to pre- scribe how far inland low field ice shall not be driven by the pressure of other ice, forced by tempestuous weather towards the land.” Captain Burney also ob- serves, “that the shallowness of the sea near the north coast of Asia, the freshes discharged into it from many large rivers, and the coast fronting the north, render it more liable to be frozen, than the seas of Greenland and Spitzbergen in a much higher latitude, The northern lands in the Icy Sea are impediments to the dispersion of ice, and hence arises the great difficulty of navigation in that sea.” This passage is partly appli- cable likewise to the north coast of America. But Captain Franklin has recorded his favorable opinion of the practicability of a passage for ships along that coast. “Our researches,” he says, “as far as they have gone, seem to favor the opinion of those who con- tend for the practicability of a N.W. passage. The general line of coast probably runs east and west, nearly in the latitude assigned to the Mackenzie river, the Sound into which Kotzebue entered, and Re- pulse Bay; and very little doubt can, in my opi- nion be entertained of the existence of a continued sea in or about that line of direction. A connexion with Hudson's Bay is rendered more probable from the . same kind of fish abounding on the coast, we visited, and on the coast to the north of the Churchill river. The portion of sea over which we passed is aawigable {{#2 for ships of any size; the ice wermet with, particularly after quitting Detentiah Harbour, would not have as- rtistádria strong boat. The “chain of islands affort's shelter from ałł heavy seas, and there are good harbours at convenient distances.” . . . . . . . . . .37 sq , ſº There can be no doubt that the chain of 'islands seen to the northward of that portion of the coast ex- ‘plored by Capt. Franklin, from the Copper Mine River eastward, would shelter ships from heavy seas; if it were likely there could be any produced there.” Atºl the shelter those nearest, as well as the North Georgian Islands, afforded to that part of the coast, was theºrea- son why it was not much encumbered with ice; mbre especially to the eastward of Detention Harbour; as George the Fourth’s Coronation Gulf is almost cons- pletely protected by Wilmot's Chain, and other-islands to the northward of it. If a similar chairº shbrººd iexist from Cape Hearne to Icy Cape, there williptoba- bly be a navigable passage all the way betweenſitiánd the coast of America, provided it runs, as CaptisBranki. Hin supposes, east and west, nearly in the latitudějas. signed to the Mackenzie River, and the Sound into which Kotzebue entered. But there is some reason'té fear that the coast of America, westward of Mackenzie's River, will be found to trend more to the northward than the dotted imaginary line of direction so arbitra. *śly assigned to it by geographers. The late Adriūpāl Barhey said, “an account or notice is given by Kbbi. 4efbfa great river, in the coast of America, to thenbrüh *fºehring's 'Sirait, which river is described to takeºš *ong coarse in a southerly direction, and its banks to beifah, oftſvillages.” Can the Sound discovered by ‘Lieut. Kotzebue to the northward of Behring's Strait, between Capés' Ryūsefistern and Esperbergºfeedºtº Y * \tº\. 153 this great river, “described to take a long course in a southerly direction?” Though Kotzebue's detail of his proceedings in this Sound is rather obscure and un- satisfactory, and so apparently contradictory, in some parts, as to implant a doubt of its correctness; yet I am rather disposed to attribute this to the translation, which is evidently defective, than to any intention on his part, to conceal known facts, for the purpose of deception. He entered this Sound, named after him, on the 1st of August. “At 11 o'clock (he says) we were at the entrance of a broad inlet; the coast va- nished in the east, and high mountains showed them- selves in the north.” Here the wind abated, and he anchored in seven fathoms water, in lat. 66°42' 30", and long. 164°12' 50”; at 7 o'clock he weighed again, “and steered to the eastward (across, but as he says) up the strait.” “On the 2nd, at day-break, our ex- pectations were at the highest pitch; there was still nothing but open sea to the east.” The next passage is rather remarkable. “As we now saw low land in the south, the direction of which was likewise to the east, we could no longer doubt that we were really in a broad channel, as we always continued to see the open sea in the east.” Now, if there be any channel leading to the eastward, it must be opposite to his noon position of this day, which was in lat. 66° 35' 18", and long. 162° 19, in 8 fathoms water, where he says he was “obliged to tack, because the wind turned to the S.E.” But if there had been a passage to the eastward, where he says “the sea continued open,” surely the shifting of the wind, in soundings of eight fathoms, need not have prevented him from standing on in that direction, on the starboard tack, to explore an open space in so promising a quarter, or at least till he had seen the land Data. - º U 154 in continuity, or had shoaled his water, so as not to be able to proceed further. According to his published Chart of this Sound, however, the land must have been seen to the eastward, from the noon position of the Burick on the 2d August; for the whole eastern side of Kotzebue's Sound is delineated in continuity, and a working track along it is laid down as far to the south- ward as Chamisso Island. He anchored to the west: ward of this island, “in eight fathoms water, in an open- ing five miles broad, where he still cherished the hope of discovering a passage into the Frozen Ocean ;” which hope, it may therefore be presumed, had thus far been disappointed, and as it also was here. “The an- chor was weighed; we sailed (to the eastward) up the Strait, and when we had passed the narrow part, we again cast anchor in seven fathoms.” He then pro- ceeded to examine the coast eastward with his boats ; and on the 7th, when in Eschscholtz Bay, he says, “We had advanced so far at noon, that we could dis- tinctly observe that the land was united every where. At the distance of a full mile from the shore, the water had decreased to the depth of five feet, and the hope of disr covering a river also vanished.” But he says, further on ; “I called the Bay after our physician, Eschscholtz, I do not doubt that there was a river behind the high mountains, which the shoals, however, would not permit us to investigate. The ebb tide runs out seven, and the flood only five hours, They change regularly; the current sets with more violence out than in, and some- times runs two knots.” These are indications of a river, but not of a channel leading to a sea; but Kotzebue, in his Chart, has connected the whole coast round Eschscholtz and Spafariefs Bays, though it does not seem quite certain that he carefully examined the latter: 135 fot on the 10th August he says, “We left Eschsudhultz, Bay with a fresh S.E. wind. I now wished to dºts amine the land to the south. It lay at the distance ºf seven miles from us:” but his track in the ship is further off, leading towards Cape Deceit, in a direct line hearly from Chamisso Island. However, he says, that “he steered along the coast W.S.W. because he considered the examination of the east unnecessary; as he had dis- tiºctly seen the connerion of the land from the point of Chamisso Island.” Whether he alludes, in this passage, to the south part of the Sound eastward from Cape De- ceit, round to Chamisso Island, or the east coast it- self of the Sound, from abreast of the noon position 3d August, southward to the point next to €ha- misso Hsland, it is rather difficult to say, but not very material. ' * *Mr. Barrow, in mentioning this subject in his account of Voyages to the Arctic Regions, says, “Kotzebue. entered an inlet in latitude about 673 to 68°. Its extent to the eastward was not determined; but the Rurick proceeded in that direction as far as the meridian of 168°, which corresponds with that of Norton Sound.” From the Rndians “Lieut. Kotzebue learned, that at the bettom of the inlet was a strait, through which there was a passage into the great sea; and that it required #leºdays rowing in one of their boats to reach this sed. 9-Thié, Kotzebue thinks, must be the great *thern Ocean, and that the whole of the land to the nºrthward of the inlet must either be an islaud; ſor an archipelago of islands.” . From what Lieutenant . Kotzebue has published, it does not appear that what he learned from the Indians was in the least connected with any “strait at the bottom of the inlet,” cºlon'thé eastern side of the Sound; but referred to one situated on the western side, in the Bay of Good Hope, between Töö Gapºseiſbeeet anti-Espenberg, Kotzebue says," he weºtoin his boats; on the 12th of August, to examine- this Séaitza"After proceeding about four miles;” says, heſiºłºwe arrived at a Cape where the land suddenly, the k a direction from south to west. From a hillni, observed a broad arm to the west, which ran from the sea into the land, and there wandered in severdr windings between the mountains.” Here, meeting with an old Indian, “I took much pains,” says he, “to: make my American comprehend, that I wished to know how far this branch might extend ?. He at last comprehended me, and made me understand his answer, by the following pantomime: he seated himself on the ground, and rowed eagerly with his arms; this business he interrupted nine times, closing his eyes as: many times, and resting his head on his hand. Ilearnt by this that it would take nine days to get to the openi sea, through this branch.” And, a few pages further ong Kotzebue says, “the account given by the American, may be correct, and this branch either extends to ſºfcrº tº Sound, or joins Schischmareff's Bay.” PNow; as Norton Sound lies to the southward, and Schischmas reff Bay to the westward of the place Kotzebue, was examining, the “Great Sea” to which this straitor braach led, must have been in one or other of those de *étions. How then could Kotzebue have “thought it must have been the Great Northern Ocean, that thein- tijaisanformed him it required nine days rowing to flackſºn He does indeed say, afterwards, when speaks ing befºotzebue Sound, “I certainly hope that this sºufidiºisyjead to important discoveries next year; and theast anoth-east passage may not with certainty be depended on; yetºl believe I shall be able to penetrate thuth fººther to the east; as theiland has very deepin- dentures.” Mr. Von Chamisso, who accompanied hº? Lieutenant Kotzebue, in histºremarks” has this pºst, sage: “We observe that that part of the American cºast, which we examined to the north of Behring's sº traiti; appeared to us to excite the hope of finding a channelſ among the entrances and friths which interseat it, aad, which might lead to the Icy Sea towards the mouth...af. Mackenzie River, without doubling Icy Cape, whigh, would then be part of an island;” and in a foot, note, he adds: “Several Journals have -published a letter from the author of these articles (San Francisco; New, California, on the 28th of October 1816,) in which this opinion was delivered ; an error of the copyist has altered the sense, so as to make it seem as if this entrance had really been eramined by us.” These passages seem to afford some ground to suspect that there may be an opening on the east side of Kotzebue Sound which had been seen, but not eramined; or on what can Kotze- bue have founded his belief, that he should “be able to penetrate much further to the east” the following year ! Certainly, from what he has said, concerning the bottoma of that sound, and an inspection of the chart he has published, if true, no such belief or even hope can be excited; for he has connected the land completely round it, with the exception of the strait in the Bay ef, Good Hope, leading to the westward. Willing te believe him to be an officer of honorable principles and veracity, I can hardly bring myself to suppose him other, wise without further proof. The hope he expressed, (if he really had any,) of being “able to penetrate furthersta the east” out of Kotzebue Sound, must have rested ºn the known existence of some strait supposed to kead frºa the east side of that sound to the Northerns 99eans And if what he learned from the Indians did refººth such a strait, instead of the one on the wastside, ſits, it { *. * - g" sº re. § 9-1 ( , ; ; , . . . . . . st g • * 23 inſiſya's 158 evidently does both in his chart and publication, he may inadvertently have told the truth to Mr. Barrow on his arrival in London, and afterwards have been com- manded by his government to falsify both. However, I must confess, I would much rather attribute this dis- cordance to some misunderstanding, than allow my- self to suppose the other to be even possible. If, on the other hand, there is only a river at the bottom of Esch- scholtz Bay, “behind the mountains, which the shoals would not permit Kotzebue to investigate,” it could hardly be expected to communicate with the NorthERN Ocean, unless by another branch. In that case, it would not answer to the description of the “Great River” mentioned by Kobileſ, which is said “to take a long course in a southerly direction.” If, therefore, any such river exist, it must be looked for still further to the northward, and perhaps beyond Icy Cape. From some facts stated in the account of Captain Parry's attempt through Lancaster Sound, and in Cap- tain Franklin's Journey, it seems doubtful whether what may be properly termed the Polar Sea has yet been reached. But it is very possible that each may have navigated in waters separated from it by conti- nuity of land, at some yet undefined distance to the northward and westward; in which waters, the North Georgian Islands, and others perhaps to the westward of them, are situated, and extend perhaps as far as the 486th meridian; and into which both the Copper- mine and Mackenzie's rivers disembogue: in short, a mediterranean sea, communicating with the Bays of Hudson and Baffin, by various channels, through which the flood tide finds its way from the Atlantic and Spitzbergen Sea. * Captain Ross found the flood tide to set from the 159 southward all the way up the east side of Baffin's Bay, The rise and fall decreased gradually, and the times of high-water at full and change were later, as far as he advanced to the northward. The tide of flood set to the southward and westward on the west side of that Bay, as he returned along it, to the southward. Captain Parry, near Possession Bay, in lat. 73°31'16", and long. 77° 22', says, “he found therise and fall of tide, as nearly as could be judged from the markson the beach, to befrom 6 to 8 feet. While the tide was rising, the stream came from the northward and westward along the shore of the Bay. It is more than probable, there- fore, that the flood comes from the N.W. on this part of the coast.” Whether the flood came from the west, out of Lancaster Sound, or from the northward down the west side of Baffin's Bay, it must of course, at this place, have taken the direction imposed on it by the trending of the coast from Cape Liverpool towards the south-east. On the 7th of August, when in Prince Regent's In- let, off Port Bowen, he says, “The whole rise of tide (being nearly the highest of the springs,) appears to have been TEN feet. The ebb was found to set strong to the southward in shore. A boat being moored to the bot- tom, at three miles' distance from the land, at 5 P.M., not the smallest current was perceptible. From these and several subsequent observations, there is good reason to suppose that the flood tide comes from the southward in this inlet.” Captain Parry adds: “I have before observed, that the east and west coasts which form this grand inlet are probably islands: and on an inspection of the chart, I think it will also appear highly probable that a communication will one day be found to exist . between this inlet and Hudson's Bay, either through 100 the broad unexplored channel called Sir Thomas Roe's Welcome, or through Repulse Bay, which has not yet been satisfactorily examined. It is also pro- bable that a channel will be found to exist, between the western land and the northern coast of America; in which case, the flood-tide which came from the south- ward, may have proceeded round the southern part of the west land out of the Polar Sea: part of it setting up the inlet, and part down the Welcome, according to the testimony of all the old navigators.” That the east and west lands forming Prince Regent's Inlet may be islands, is very likely; and that it communicates with Hudson's Bay, appears to be little less than certain : for (to my mind at least,) it is proved by the flood-tide running from the southward. As I believe this tide has its source in the south and east, and that it flows from the Atlantic and Spitzber- gen Sea, through Hudson's, Cumberland, and Davis's Straits, by channels of communication with them all, and perhaps by others yet unexplored, still further to the northward on the west side of Baffin's Bay, that in Prince Regent's Inlet is consequently a part of it. This part, when it reaches the north entrance of Prince Re- gent's Inlet, naturally takes the direction of the east and west lands forming it; setting to the eastward on the former, and to the westward along the latter towards the Wellington Channel ; and making the times of high-water, at full and change, progressively later in that direction, as far as, or perhaps beyond Melville Island: the other part of the great general flood sets down the Welcome, along the west side of Hudson's Bay, as it naturally must, from the trending of the yet known land, and making the times of high-water at full and change, on that coast, progressively later to the southward. This T61 fact, therefore, can by no means prove, as Ellis and others have concluded, that because the flood-tide,3in the Welcome sets to the southward, it must necessarily come from the west, originally, out of the PolariSea, and that therefore there must be a navigable passage. Nor, indeed, if the flood tide shall hereafter be found to come from the westward, along the southern shores of the land west of Prince Regent's Inlet, will it in the least prove that the Polar Sea is its grand source, as has been conjectured. For the same fact would occur in an inclosed sea, by the flood taking the direction of its circumbounding land. It will no doubt prove the ex- istence of a channel between that land west of Prince Regent's Inlet and the northern coast of America, but nothing more. e. Channels of communication are known to exist be- tween, the Atlantic and Baffin's and Hudson's Bays, and now, there perhaps can be little doubt of one between them by way of Lancaster Sound, and Prince Regent's Inlet. There probably are others, though yet undisco- wered. As far as can be gathered from the experience of Captain Parry, and the facts stated by him as well as Mr. Fisher, in their respective publications, it would ap- pear that the flood-tide through Lancaster Sound, and Barrow's Strait, all the way to Melville Island, has its general flow, not from the west, but from the east, and from the northward between some of the North Georgian Islands. The times of high water, too, at full and change, as far as they can be got at, seem to have been progres- sively later from east to west, and the rise and fall of tide was also less and less in that direction. On the 224-6f August, when off Gascoyne Inlet, about the longitadelöf 96°, Mr. Fisher says, “I have only to add one circum- Data. * X 162 stance which I feel less pleasure in relating; it is that we found the ebb-tide come from the westward; the tide ebbed during the time we were on shore, which was about fifty minutes, between 10 and 11 inches.” On the 28th of August, when off Point Gilman, Captain Parry says, “The tide was rising by the shore from noon till half past 4, P.M. at which time the boats left the beach, and by the high-water mark, it was considered probable that it would rise an hour longer. The time of high water may therefore be taken at half past 5, which will make that of full and change about 12 o'clock. Mr. Ross found, on rowing round the point near which he landed, that the stream was setting strong against him from the northward. We had tried the current (tide) in the offing at noon,” (in lat. 75° 3' 12", and long. 103° 34' 37") “by mooring the small boat to the bottom, when it was found to run in a south direction, at the rate of half a mile per hour. At 4 P.M., near the same station, it was setting S.S. W. # of a mile per hour, so that it would appear tolerably certain, that the flood-tide. here comes from the northward.” On the 2d of September, in lat. 74° 58, and long. 107° 3' 31", Captain Parry says, “When the boats landed at 1, 40. P. M. the tide had fallen a foot by the shore. It continued to fall till 7 P.M. and then rose again, the whole fall of tide not, ex- ceeding five, or five and a half feet. At the time we landed, Lieutenant Beechey tried for a current in the offing, but could find none. At half past 7 the tide was setting E.N.E. at the rate of a mile and a half an hour, and at a quarter before ten, after I returned on board, it was still setting slowly to the eastward. By the above observations, the time of high water at full and change of the moon seems to be about ; after one o'clock. The direction of the tide of flood does not appear so clear.” 163 \ “If,” says Captain Parry, “it come from the westward, there must be a tide and half tide, but it seems more probable, on an inspection of the chart, that here, as on the 'eastern side of Byam Martin's Island, it will be found to come from the northward between the islands.” But it is most probable, that, as the tide setting to the E.N.E. at half past 7 was the ebb, the flood must have set 'to the W.S. W. in the same place, unless Captain Parry can give any good reason why it should not. ‘On the 6th of September, in lat. 74°47', and long. 110° 34, Captain Parry says, “It was low water by the shore at half past 9, and it had risen between two and three feet when the boats came away at half past 12. During this time, the ships were tending to a tide coming strong from the eastward, from which direction it is therefore pro- bable” (why not certain 3) “that the flood tide runs on this part of the coast, though we had no opportunity of trying its true set in the offing.” Again, on the 9th of Septem- ber, “Considering our present detention so near the shore a good opportunity of observing the true rise and fall of . the tides; I caused a pole to be fixed on the beach for the purpose, by which it was found to be high water at half past 4 o'clock in the morning, and the tide ebbed till halfpast 10. From this time till half past 4 P.M. when it was again high water, the tide had risen two feet eight inches'; so that, small as this tide was, it seems to be very regular. The direction of the stream of flood was, as usual, not so easy to determine. But I shall give the facts as they occurred. At the time of low water by the shore, and for an hour and a quarter before it took place, the current was setting to the eastward at the rate of three quarters of a mile per hour. It continued to run thus for the greater part of the day, but at times it was observed to set in an opposite direction, and now and 16.1 then no current whatever was perceptible. From 8 till 11 P.M. it was running strong to the westward, after which it stopped, and then began to set the ice the contrary way. I have been thus minute in mentioning the above particulars, not with a hope of throwing any light upon that interesting question of the direction of the tides in this part of the Polar Sea, but to show how impossible it is, with the land close on one side, and on the other innumerable masses of ice, in almost constant motion, to arrive at any satisfactory conclusion on the subject. In Winter Harbour, in lat. 74° 47' 15", and long. 110° 48' 30", it was found to be high water at 29 minutes past 1 o'clock; and the mean rise and fall was only 2 feet 7 inches.” On the 1st of August, in the year following, when Captain Parry was released from Winter Harbour, and had rounded Cape Hearne, he says, “We found the ships to be considerably impeded by a tide or current setting to the eastward, which, as it slacked about 7 in the evening, I considered to be the flood, the time of high water at Winter Harbour, this day, being about half past 7.” In this instance, as in others, where a supposed flood tide from the westward has been mentioned, it is coupled with an expression of some doubt as to its being a tide or eurrent. The flood tide from the eastward has been stated more decidedly. Why, in this case and at this place, Captain Parry should have considered the flood to come from the westward, merely because this “tide or current slacked about the time it was high water in Winter Harbour;” when not very far from the same place, on the 6th of September of the former year, he thought that the tide coming from the eastward was probably the flood, he can of course assign some good reason. It seems to me, however, that this stream was most probably a current, especially as he says on the -> 165 14th of August, “The frequent experience we had of the quickness with which currents are thus formed, in con- sequence, merely, of the wind setting the various bodies of ice in motion, naturally leads us to this useful caution, that one or two trials of the set of the stream in icy seas - must not be too hastily assumed in drawing any con- clusions as to its constant or periodical direction.” This observation may be truly applicable to temporary currents, but not to tides, which, though they may be accelerated or retarded in their velocity, by various causes, must always set in the direction imposed on them by others of locality, which cannot vary, the trendings of the lands between which they have their course. Upon the whole, it appears that Captain Parry then did find the rise and fall of tide to be less to the west than to the eastward and southward, from whence therefore, a probable, at least, if not a “satisfactory, general ” conclu- sion may be drawn, that the flood tide comes originally. Though we cannot come at the direction of the flood. tide on that part of the coast of America which Capt. Franklin travelled and coasted, yet at the mouth of the Copper-Mine River, in lat. 67° 48' and long. 114° 37', he states, that a “rise and fall of four inches in the water was observed.” This was the farthest west and the least observed. In travelling from thence along the coast to the eastward, the rise and fall, though very small, it appears, did increase; from whence, there- fore, it may be fairly argued that the flood comes, till the contrary shall be proved. In about 112° west, Capt. Franklin says, “For the last two days the water rose and fell about nine inches. The tides, however, seemed to be very irregular, and we could not determine the direction of the ebb or flood. A current, setting to the eastward, was running about two miles an hour during 166 our stay.” About the mouth of Banks River, Capt. Franklin says, “at this place the water fell two feet during the night ;” and on the 3d and 4th of August, in Bathurst Inlet, he observed “a fall of more than two. feet in the water during the night.” . On the 15th of August he adds, “it may here be remarked that we observed the first regular return of the tides in Warren- der's and Parry's Bays, but their set could not be ascertained. The rise of water did not amount to more than two feet.” Now it must be remarked that War- render Bay is about the easternmost limit of Capt. Franklin's researches. * Though I will not go so far as to say that the ‘fore- going facts, which I have collected chiefly from the publications “of those who contend for the practica- bility of a N.W. passage,” tend to disprove it; yet, they are evidently very strong indications of an extensive Mediterranean Sea, such as I have supposed may exist, having communication by various channels with the Bays of Hudson and Baffin, though not with the Polar Sea proper. t! Though the Quarterly Reviewer says, “Hearne talks vaguely of the sea being full of islands at the mouth of the Copper-Mine River, as far as he could see with a good pocket telescope;” yet Capt. Franklin has proved him to be quite correct, with regard to the numerous islands ; and perhaps it may fall to his lot, also, to prove, whether or not Hearne was as correct too, in “think- ing it more than-probable, that the Copper-Mine River empties itself into a sort of inland sea, or extensive bay, somewhat like that of Hudson.” There is another circumstance yet to be mentioned, which goes far to show, that Hearne may be right in his judgment; at least it seems so to me. On the 17th and 18th of Octo- © 167 ber, when Capt. Parry was at Melville Island, “the deer were observed in vast numbers, preparatory to their departure over the ice to the coast of America, after which one or two only were seen.” The Quarterly Reviewer says, on the return of summer, “it was quite astonishing to behold the rapidity with which the various plants of the island pushed forth their leaves and flowers, the moment the snow was off the ground. Whether it was the abundance of these flowers that tempted the musk oven and rein-deer to make the long journey over the ice, or whether they came to these secluded and peaceable islands to drop their young, is not known. In a valley, formed by the stream of a ravine, which had the same lively appearance as that of an English meadow, a whole herd of musk oxen were seen grazing; and our surprise (says Capt. Parry) in some degree ceased, at the immense distance which these animals must travel in the course of their annual visits to these dreary and desolate regions; as such a pasture, affording undisturbed and luxuriant feeding during the summer months, may, in spite of the general appearance of the island, hold 'out sufficient induce- ment for their annual emigration;” and the Quarterly Reviewer says in another place, that “deer migrate from America to Melville Island, which is upwards of 300 miles from the Continent.” Capt. Franklin too, in his Appendix, No. 5, at page 668, informs us that “in summer the musk oxen migrate in considerable num- bers from the Continent (America) to the various islands which exist in the Polar Sea,” so that the fact is stated and, of eourse, believed by all these authorities. Hm the autumn these animals pass from Melville Island to the coast of Ameriea. In the spring, nay in the “summer” too, they return to that island, and “various "others 168 “which exist in the Polar Sea.” Now by what means are they enabled to make these long journeys * Not by land; for those, who suppose the navigable passage to exist, which is now once more to be sought for be- tween Melville Island and the north coast of America, cannot believe there is land any where in continuity, in that space, for them to travel on. Not by water; for though those whose trade it is to feed curiosity with a goose's quill, know that there is no lack of credulity anțong us, whatever there may be of faith : yet, I presume they would find it somewhat difficult to make any John Bull believe that these deer and musk oxen swim the distance of 300 miles twice a year ! Well then, unless these beasts “take unto themselves wings and fly;” to pass “over the ice,” they must of course make their long journeys upon it. If so, it may be supposed to be continuous, and almost per- manent, or they could hardly migrate thus upon it, not only in the spring and autumn, but even the Summer. The medium however, let it be what it may, which enables these animals to do this, would not, I suppose, be the very best for ships to sail in ; and therefore, if the fact of their migration be true, as thus stated, it cannot but render the hope of a navigable passage rather for- lorn. But if that medium should happen to be land, it must be land in continuity, which would at once decide the question of the existence of a N. W. passage in the negative. * In that case, the result would be the same, whether an attempt at the discovery should be made from this side, or from Behring's Strait. But why those “who contend for the existence and practicability of a N.W. passage for ships,” should prefer the former, has ap- 169 peared to me quite unaccountable. Captain Parry, however, has recorded his reasons, such as they are, in its favor, in these words. “In the course of the fore- going narrative, it may have been remarked that the westerly and north-westerly winds were always found to produce the effect of clearing the southern shores of the new Georgian Islands of ice, while they always brought with them clear weather, which is essentially necessary in prosecuting discoveries in such navigation. This circumstance, together with the fact of our having sailed back in sir days from the meridian of Winter Harbour, to the entrance of Sir James Lancaster's Sound, a distance which required five weeks to traverse, when going in the opposite direction, seems to afford a feasonable ground for concluding, that an attempt for effecting the N.W. passage might be made with a better chance of success from Behring's Strait, than from the side of America. There are some circumstances, how- ever, which in my opinion render this mode of pro- ceeding altogether impracticable, at least for British ships. The principal of these arises from the length of the voyage which must first be performed in order to arrive at the point where the work is to be begun. After such a voyage, admitting that no serious wear and tear had been experienced, the most important part of a ship's resources, namely, the provisions and fuel, must be very materially reduced, and this without the possi- bility of renewing them to the extent necessary for such a service, and which can alone give confidence in the performance of an enterprise of which the nature is so precarious and uncertain. Nor should it be forgotten how injurious to the health of the crews, so sudden and extreme a change of climate would in all probability prove, as that which they must necessarily experience Data. + 170 in going at once from the heat of the torrid zone into the intense cold of a long winter upon the northern shores of America. Upon the whole, therefore, I can- not but consider, that any expedition equipped by Great Britain, with this view, will act with greater ad- vantage by at once employing its best energies in the attempt to penetrate from the eastern coast of America along its northern shores.” Now, if the practicability of the N.W. passage were doubted, or its non-existence deemed possible even, it appears to me that the only reasons why it would be imprudent to make the attempt from Behring's Strait to the eastward, are the very Two which Captain Parry, in the first paragraph of the foregoing extract, says “seem to afford a reasonable ground for conclud- ing that an attempt might be made with a better chance of success from Behring's Strait than the side of Ameri- ca.” Because every seaman ought to know, that in case of failure in an attempt from west to east, by finding land, or the western entrances of Straits so encumbered with ice as to oppose his further advance, he would rather have a free wind to return with, as Captain Parry had when “he sailed back in six days a distance of 600 miles, which required five weeks to traverse,” than these “westerly and north-westerly winds” to beat back against. As these winds were “always found to produce the effect of clearing the southern shores of the new Geor- gian Islands of ice,” it may be presumed that they must also produce the effect of encumbering the northern and western shores of islands, as well as the northern and western entrances of Straits existing between them, with ice—if there be any to windward. Consequently, ships proceeding from west to east, and finding such 171 western entrances closed against then by ice, would be in a much worse predicament than Captain Parry was, for instance, when he found the western entrance of the Strait of the Fury and Hecla actually so closed against him by ice. For his obstruction being to wind- ward of him, he had only to quit it and return home, “with these winds from the West and N.W. prevailing” in his favor, and perhaps the “circumvolving current” of the Quarterly Review into the bargain. Whereas, any ship having advanced from Behring's Straits as far as the western limit of such obstruction as Captain Parry met with, must have been reduced to the necessity of beating back again the way she came; unless some channel could be discovered to the northward, com- municating with Barrow's Strait and Lancaster Sound, which it is hoped Captain Parry will find by way of Prince Regent's Inlet. But no such obstruction from ice, and indeed but little from even land intervening, can have entered into the calculation of those who have said, “We firmly believe that a navigable passage does erist, and may be of no difficult execution. It is the business of three months out and home. We have little doubt of a free and practicable passage for seven or eight months in every year. Arrived on the coast of America, and no obstruction from land occurring, we see NO REASON why the passage to Icy Cape, which does not exceed 1500 miles, might not easily be accomplished in one season ; about 600 of these were actually run on the last voyage in sir days;” and finally Captain Parry himself “ has recorded his opinion in favor of its ac- complishment.” To persons thus sanguine in their hope, nay, so con- fident in their expectations of success, the prevalence “ of westerly and north-westerly winds” must be, of 172 all others, the most favorable circumstance, as they would ensure the speediest performance of the voyage: for, as “they seem” to Captain Parry, so they do in truth, for that reason, “afford a reasonable ground” (to them) “for concluding that an attempt might be made with a better chance of success from Behring's Strait than the side of America.” Indeed, as the Quarterly Reviewer sees no reason “why the passage to Icy Cape, which does not exceed 1500 miles, may not be easily accomplished in one season, as 600 of these were ac- tually run in six days, by means of these very westerly and north-westerly winds,” I would take the liberty of asking him, why—(if he have no fear of either icy or land impediment) should not the whole 1500 miles be perhaps run with the same facilities in about one month? which would be far less than what he considers to be the duration of one season, who “ has little doubt of a free and navigable passage for seven or eight months in every year.” The only objections, then, which these advocates for the existence and practicability of a N.W. passage can make, consistently with their publicly expressed belief of there being no obstruction from ice, and little or none from land, are those given by Captain Parry, in the terms I have quoted; not one of which appears to me to be of the slightest importance, compared to that which has been given to the discovery of this famed N.W. passage. o And, were it not that he has published them, and that therefore, those who know little or nothing of the matter may think them very solid objections, they would hardly deserve the notice of any seaman who has had years of experience on service in ships of war, in all the climates of the globe, except perhaps within the north frigid zone, of whose imaginary inclemency 173 as to the human feeling, and its terrible effects, Captain g Parry has proved and recorded the non-evistence, by a practical experience which, being well merited, has been justly rewarded. We will, however, examine them one by one, and see what they amount to. In the first place, “the length of the voyage to the point where the work is to be begun” is objected to by Captain Parry, and in his opinion renders “this mode of proceeding altogether impracticable, at least for British ships.” But why for “British ships” particularly, any more than Russian, or indeed any other ships ? In the present improved state of navigation, the length of the voyage, say first to Macao in China, is absolutely not worthy of a thought. The wear and tear of that part of the voyage might be with ease repaired there or in the Typa. The reduction in the stores, provisions, and fuel, could be made up there just as well as in Eng- land; and if it could not, every thing considered to be absolutely necessary might be sent out and placed there in store preparatory to their arrival. As to the observa- tion, “How injurious to the health of the crews, so sud-, den and evtreme a change of climate would prove, as that which they must necessarily experience in going at once from the heat of the torrid zone into the intense cold of a long winter upon the northern shores of Ame- rica,” it must by no means be “necessarily” so, or at all probable that the healths of the crews would suffer in the slightest degree, from any changes of climate to which they might be subjected in the course of their voyage. For who that has served (as perhaps Captain Parry has not,) during the last war, for years, in all the climates of the globe, and been as suddenly removed from hot to cold, and from cold to hot, ever contemplated or experienced any such injurious effects, either upon himself or his 174 ship's companies? None, I daresay; at least I can answer for myself. Many, very many, after being grilled in the East or West Indies for years, immediately on their return home have been sent smoking-hot, to cool in the North Sea in winter, without at all feeling its effects, more than the crews of any other ships long stationed there. But perhaps I shall be told, that the severity of the North Sea climate is nothing compared to that of the terrible icy regions of the north. Certainly, the North Sea climate may not be so cold ; but its humidity renders men much more liable to pulmonary and in- flammatory complaints, than it appears Captain Parry's people ever were in the frigid climate of Winter Har- bour. For he says, “In the severest weather, not a single inflammatory complaint occurred, though in pass- ing from the cabins into the open air, and vice versa, the men were constantly in the habit, for some months, of undergoing a change of from 80 to 100 degrees, and in several instances 120° of temperature.” No such ex- treme change of temperature as this (which, however, had no injurious effect at all,) could possibly be expe- rienced on a passage from England to China. There the crews might be refreshed for months, if it were re- quired. From Macao, the passage, with the S.W. Monsoon, could be performed with ease, and in as short a time, to Behring's Strait, as one from England to the N.E. part of America; so as to be off Icy Cape in all July, if necessary. * So that on every consideration except expense, (which can be nothing with such an IM PortANT object in view,) certainly, the best and most expeditious mode of performing that part of the voyage to the northward of the continent of America, (if no obstruction from either land or ice be supposed to exist,) would undoubtedly 175 be, by way of Behring's Strait to the eastward. But those who do apprehend that obstruction may be proba- bly met with, somewhere between Behring's Strait and the N.E. part of America, will prudently prefer having the attempt made from east to west, but FIRST to eramine Behring's Strait. I shall conclude, for the present, with a passage on this subject, written by the late Admiral Burney, and published in the year 1819. “Behring's Strait beingregarded as the most probable opening on the western side of America, by many as the only probable one, forthe entrance into the Pacific, by a northern navigation from Europe; and on the eastern side of America, there being many inlets and arms of the sea unexplored, of which a very small proportion can be expected to lead to Behring's Strait; it follows, that the best chance for discovering a passage, or for dis- covering that there is no passage, is by commencing on the other side of America. On this side of America the question can only be set at rest by the discovery of a passage, for twenty expeditions with the most favorable seasons would be insufficient for ascertaining that there is no passage.” & If, as the Quarterly Review says, there be “a free and navigable passage for seven or eight months in every year,” the coast of America must of course form the south side of it. That coast can be got hold of at Behring's Strait, and if it could be kept sight of, and there be no obstruction, a ship by tracing it must ultimately discover it: and in less than half the time it can possibly be donefrom east to west, with the prevailing winds and the Reviewer's circumvolving current against her; even allowing that she may get at once close in upon the coast of America, by way of Prince Regent's Inlet, or other yet undiscovered channels. But if that inlet º 176 , fail, “twenty” other expeditions may also fail, as Ad- spiral, Burney justly observes, by as many channels, if they artist. On the contrary, one attempt from Behring's Strait, whether there be obstruction or not, would per- : baps, decide the question for ever. The most certain mode, however, and doubtless the least expensive, must be by land expeditions; and if such means had been tried, in the year 1818, in all probability it would have been decided by this time. * Though, in this inquiry, I have attempted to show that the Quarterly Reviewer's belief in the practicability and existence of a north-west passage was originally formed on an assumption of circumstances and sup- posed facts, as vague, crude, and inconsistent with each other, as they are contrary to the laws of nature, and which even the future proof of both cannot establish as true; and though it is tolerably clear, that none of the great commercial advantages which his glowing but wild imagination anticipated, can ever be the result of that Joroof; yet many others undoubtedly have been, and will yet be, obtained by means of the naval expedi- tions, and which it is highly to the glory and honor of the first maritime power in the world should have been Sent Out. sº It perhaps would have been better not to have avowed to the world, at first, that the grand object of these expeditions was “the discovery of a north-west passage,” where success mustbe so doubtful; but merely to have said, they were fitted out in this “piping time of peace,” for the purpose of exploring the Arctic re- gions; to obtain facts, to make observations on their various phaenomena, for the extension of science, by throwing light on many subjects as yet but little under- stood. In this case all the information they brought 177 home would have been acceptable to the public from its novelty, to the philosopher from its value, and clear gain to all, unalleyed by any feeling of disappointment; and if the north-west passage should have been unexpect- edly discovered, the gaping world would have considered it as the ne plus ultra of all human enterprise, in short something like a trip to the moon in a balloon; for, indeed, the notion which many persons even at present entertain of it is something like that. The Quarterly Reviewer, himself, in No. 49, page 214, observes that, “in proportion as the expectations of the public have been raised,” not so much perhaps, as he says, “by the result of Captain Parry's last Voyage” as by what he has written, “would a failure be felt. Indeed, we have no doubt that any thing short of reaching the Pacific would now be considered as a failure, and cause disap- pointment, even if it should be discovered that no com- munication exists between the Atlantic and the Pacific.” Certainly, there can be no doubt but it would be a failure ; and though the public in general would con- sider it such, yet I must confess, as one of that public, though I should feel great regret, I cannot say I should be disappointed ; because my expectations have not been unduly raised, nor shall I ever think that any one of these expeditions was fitted out in vain. Who, indeed, can be so narrow-minded as to say, what is the use of all these expeditions 2 why all this expense? except those who measure the value of every thing by the commercial scale? The undertaking is one every way worthy of this country. The man, whoever he was, who first sug- gested it, is justly entitled to that praise which every one of enlarged and liberal mind will award him, whether it succeed to its full extent or not. Nor will the No- Data. Z 178 * , bleman who presides at the Admiralty fail of that reward from posterity which he so richly merits, for having attended to his suggestions, and so far carried them into effect. , , , , ; , , , , , , SCRUTATOR. 179 POSTSCRIPT. A few days after the foregoing sheets were written, Captain Parry's long-expected “Journal of a Second Voyage for the Dis- covery of a North-West Passage” made its appearance. After carefully reading it, I cannot say that I have met with a single fact of sufficient weight to induce me to alter one line I had written, or to doubt the correctness of any of the inferences I had drawn from Data previously furnished. On the contrary, I have found much to confirm them. The grand source of the flood-tide in Hudson's Bay is proved to be the Atlantic. It set to the westward generally from Resolution Island all the way to the coast of America, but taking local directions imposed on it by intervening lands. The rate of flow (except in confined channels and inlets) decreased in advancing to the westward, as did also the rise and fall of the tide, in proportion to the distances of the places where it was observed from Hudson's and Cumberland Straits, &c. What I most desired to know, was, whether or not any current had been experienced in the Strait of the Fury and Hecla from the westward. In the event of there being any such, I presumed to anticipate its effect on floating ice, should there be any, at its western mouth, whatever might be the source or cause of that current; but at the same time denying that the waters of the Pacific Ocean could pos- sibly form any part of it. Captain Parry did find a current from the westward, running through the Strait of the Fury and Hecla, of which, and the tides in that Strait, he writes thus at page 354 of his Journal: “I be- 18() lieve there can be little doubt that the flood-tide here comes from the westward. That there is, besides this, during a great part of the summer, a permanent current setting from the same direction, is also sufficiently apparent; and the joint effects of these two causes appear to account satisfactorily for the various irregularities observed, as well in the set of the stream, as in the rise and fall of water by the shore. The natural inference, with respect to the cur- rent, seemed at the time to be, that it is occasioned by the amual melting of the snows upon the shores of the Polar Sea, for which this Strait affords the only outlet leading to the southward, within perhaps some hundreds of miles; and this supposition appeared the more reasonable from the circumstance of the current having just now [20th September, 1822,] ceased, when the streams from the land were once more arrested by the frost of the approaching winter.” In fact, then, this current was only periodically “permanent;” and, admitting Captain Parry to be correct in his inference as to its cause, it therefore cannot be a part of the Quarterly Reviewer's “circumvolving current from the Pacific through Behring's Strait,” which he believes to be “perpetual.” For if that circumvolving current of his between the Pacific and Atlantic be perpetual, and there really exist an unobstructed course for it all the way from Behring's Strait, and through that of the Fury and Hecla, as “the only outlet leading to the southward,” why should it have “ceased” there about the 20th of September Captain Parry's own explai nation is quite conclusive, that the Reviewer's current can have nothing at all to do with the one he met with in the Strait of the Fury and Hecla. Were this current perpetual, so much the worse. Its temporary adverse operation is quite bad enough, for, according to Captain Parry's account of it, it flows eastward, during the only navigable season, and ceases with it. The effect of this current is thus described by him at page 489: “The state of the ice for two successive summers, in the Strait of 181 f the Fury and Hecla, seems to indicate that the obstruction we, there met with, is dependent rather on locality than season... It is, more than probable, that the obstacles which finally arrested, ouri, progress in the Strait, are to be mainly attributed to the current we, found setting to the eastward through it, and which coincides with that observed by Captain Franklin, and by the Russians, to the westward.” True—it does so--as to direction ; but the cause which Captain Parry assigns for its periodical flow and cessation, renders it impossible to identify this current with the one they ob- served, which is said to be perpetual. “This stream,” Captain Parry adds, “ in finding its way through the Strait, would un- doubtedly have the effect of keeping the ice close home upon its western mouth, so as to prevent the egress of a ship in that direc- tion: and I cannot help thinking that, on that account, the naviga- tion of that Strait will seldom, if ever, be practicable.” On what possible ground, then, can it be expected that the west- ern mouth of any other existing Strait between Prince Regent's Inlet and Behring's Strait should, under similar circumstances, be more practicable than that of the Fury and Hecla t Though Captain Parry says that “circumstances beyond the reach of any previous speculation, have combined to oppose an in- surmountable barrier to our entrance into the Polar Sea by the route lately pursued,” yet some of these very circumstances were actually pointed out by the Quarterly Reviewer as the causes of the failure of all former attempts, made in that quarter to discover a north-west passage. Nay—all of these circumstances, as well as the result of Captain Parry's last voyage, were anticipated, and in my hearing mentioned to many private friends by one who dépmºd; the judgment of the Quarterly Reviewer quite sound only on that point, but who at the same time firmly believed that Repulsa, Bay. had been “satisfactorily examined;" never, like him, having, doubted that Middleton was, what Captain Parry.has now-pºwed him, a man of veracity. * - . . ; 182 Captain Parry says, “However unsuccessful have been our late endeavors, they were unquestionably directed to the right place,” and that, “with the limited geographical information we then pos- sessed, no other route than that pointed out in my instructions could possibly have been pursued with any reasonable hope of success.” . Certainly the route through Hudson's Strait and Bay did, to those who selected it, hold forth-more hope at the time than any other, because it was preferred; and even after failure has proved it to be the wrong, it is still proclaimed as the “right place,” and as the only route that could possibly have been pursued with any reasonable hope of success | But this necessarily places the route by Prince Regent's Inlet very low indeed in the scale of hope; for at the time Captain Parry sailed last, that inlet was as well known to him as it is now. No addition has been made to the then limited geographical in- formation he possessed immediately belonging to itself. If, then, three years ago, Prince Regent's Inlet were considered, as it is here acknowledged to have been, as not holding forth “any reasonable hope of success,” on what can a more reasonable hope be built now 2 For my own part, I must confess that I dare not indulge expectation of more from the next attempt through Prince Regent's Inlet, &c. than Captain Parry's strenuous endeavors effected in “the 99 right place;” and therefore, supported by an acknowledgement from such authority, I still consider it to be what I have already termed it, the For Lorn HoPE. And that too, notwithstanding Captain Parry concludes his Journal in these words, which I sin-, cerely wish may one day prove to be prophetic: “I never felt more sanguine of ultimate success in the enterprise in which I have lately been engaged, than at the present moment; and I cannot but entertain a confident hope, that England may yet be destined to succeed in an attempt which has for centuries past engaged her attention, and interested the whole civilised world.” THE EN ID, Printed by A. J. Walpy, Red Lion Court, Fleet Street. I III. Ž 3 4936