QL
63
S98
1865
TAXIDERMISTS
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
FLOURRIS.PENINSULAM.AMCNAM
1817
SCIENTIA
ARTES
VERITAS
LIBRARY
OF THE
Unusu
TIEBOR
CIRCUMSPICE
$
illl||||||||||||||
THE GIFT OF
Dr.M.D. Ewell
$ 1.70

63
598
1865
No, 60
Wittewel
Romes.
Macomb Co
Miel
Utica
aur 2 325505
THE
TAXIDERMISTS'
MANUAL,
GIVING FULL INSTRUOTIONS IN
Mounting and Preserving Birds,
Mammals, Insects, Fishes, Reptiles, Skeletons, Eggs, &c.
SECOND EDITION. .
PRICE $1. .
By $. . Sylvesten, Gaxidermist.
5
MIDDLEBORO, MASS.:
PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR.
1865.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in
the year 1865, by S. H. SYLVESTER, in the
Clerk's Office, of the District Court of Mass-
achusetts.
(* *
MIDDLEBOBO QAESTTT PKIT,
SUGGESTION.
As common thingɛ lose their charm, so is it
more particularly in this art. A person hav-
ing this work should not leave it exposed to
the eyes of the curious. The same caution
should be used in the practice. Work by
yourself that none may know the mysteries of
the art, unless they are willing to pay for the
information, as you yourself have done.
quft.
Dorim. Di Ewell.
1
4.16.132
Taxidermists: Manuai
.
First Preparation.
Let equal parts of pulverized arsenic and
alum be well mixed and kept in a large, tight
box, labeled "Poison."
Second Preparation.
To 4 pt. of 60 per cent. alcohol add an
ounce each of arsenic, camphor, alum, and
two drs. strychnine. Shake well and let it
stand 12 hours. It is then fit for use. Label
"Poison," and keep the bottle well corked.
6
TAXIDERMISTS' MANUAL.
Tools and Articles to be used in Skinning and
Mounting.
A sharp knife or scalpel; a pair of small,
sharp-pointed scissors; a pair of large, sharp-
pointed scissors, with strong blades; a pair of
amall, sharp-pointed stuffers or forceps, blades
to be three inches long, for the heads and
necks of small birds and mammals; a pair of
sharp-pointed stuffers or forceps, blades fifteen
inches long, for birds and mammals of larger
size, made like the curling tongs used by hair-
dressers, except the points should be sharper;
& pair of small forceps or wire-twisters, four
inches long, for bending small wires ; a pair
of large forceps or twisters, seven inches long,
for bending heavy wires ; a small hand vice,
four inches long, for holding wires while filing,
also to aid in stretching the wires to straigl ten
them; a $ inch gouge, beveled on the inside,
to gouge out a place on the bottom of stools
to let in the wires ; a set of brad awls; a pair
of small wire-cutters, one five inches long and
the other eight inches long; a large fish-book,
with cord attached, for suspending the bodies
while skinning; a common knitting needle,to
be used with the thumb in adjusting the feath-
TAXIDERMISTS MANUAL.
7
ers; a flat bastard-file, four inches long; one
eight inches long; three needles, of different
sizes, for sewing up rents and incisions in the
skins; annealed wire, No's. 10, 12, 14, 16, 19,
20, 24, and 26,—No. 10, the largest, for eagles,
etc., and No. 26, the smallest, for humming
birds, etc.; cotton; tow; soft hay; thread;
pins, of all sizes ; tack nails; putty; sand pa-
per; smalts; paint; glue;'artificial leaves, ev-
erlasting flowers, mosses, etc., for beautifying
perches.
Skinning Birds.
In the first place fill the beak, nostrils, shot-
holes, and anus with cotton, to prevent soiling
with blood. After this, measure the bird from
tip of beak to end of tait, and, if you wish to
be exact, the girth of the body. Then, taking
the bird in your left hand, place the thumb of
the right hand under the wings, near the body,
and
press
these back towards the head, in or-
der to dislocate them. Lay the bird on its
back, with the head at your left hand. Part
the feathers, from the breast bone to the anus.
Take the knife or scalpel and cut through the
skin, back to the anus and around it, being
careful not to cut through the thin membrane
8
TAXIDERMISTS' MANUAL.
between the skin and intestines. Should this
be done, however, so as to cause trouble, it
would be best to remove the intestines alto-
gether, to prevent the soiling of the plumage.
Now turn the bird and separate the
skin from the body, down to the thigh
and back to the anus. Taking the leg in the
left hand, press up the knee towards the breast
bone, in order to expose the joint. Cut off
at the first joint from the body, cutting to-
wards yourself. Clean away all the muscle,
down to the scaly part or tarsus. Draw the
leg back into the skin, to keep it moist for
poisoning. Smooth out the feathers, and,
that the skin may not again adhere to the
body or the plumage soiled by blood or
fat, put cotton or soft paper between them.
Then, without turning the bird, separate the
skin, etc., as before, and cut off the leg at the
corresponding joint, cutting from you. Loog-
en the skin at the base of the tail and cut off
at the last vertebra, being careful not to sev-
er the lower part of the quills. Now hang
up the body by inserting the hook into the
lower part of the back or rump. Press and
cut the skin from the body down to the wings,
TAXIDERMISTS'
9
MANUAL.
1
being careful in all cases not to stretch it.
Separate them next to the body. Clean off all
the muscle on them as far as it is possible to
turn the skin, opening the natural seam, or, if
the bird be a large one, turn the wing back
ind make an incision on the underside of the
wing, from the elbow to the wrist. Cut out
all muscle, without detaching the quill feath-
ers from the opposite side of the bone. Poi-
son with Preparation No. 1, and sew up.
Continue the inversion of the skin by pushing
(not pulling,) it over the neck until the skull
is exposed. Then carefully detach the deli-
cate membrane of the ear from the cavity in
the skull, without tearing or cutting it. With
thumb-nail and knife loosen the skin from the
skull until you come to the base of the mandi-
bles, taking great care not to cut the eyelids,
always cutting near the skull and upon the
eye, without lacerating the ball. Scoop out
the eyes and sever the neck and body from
the skull at its base, cutting a hole towards
the lower mandible large enough to clean out
all the brain and remove all muscle and fat.
Now expose every part of the skin, while it
is yet moist, pulling out the wings and legs.
10
TAXIDERMIST'S MANUAL.
Poison thoroughly with Preparation No. 1,
making the poison adhere to all parts. If the
skin is too dry, moisten with a wet sponge.
Now fill the eye-sockets with cotton and care-
fully press back the head, placing the thumbs
at the base of the skull, and, working the
skin back with the ends of the fingers, return
wings and legs to their natural position,
smoothing all the feathers and replacing the
skin on the skull by inserting the knitting
needle at the eyes, and lifting it up, that it
may fall back to its natural place. If, in the
operation of skinning, you have soiled the
feathers, use a sponge with warm water till the
stains are removed and then dry thoroughly
with pulverised Plaster of Paris, keeping the
feathers constantly in motion until all the
moisture is absorbed. In case the head is so
large that the skin of the neck will not slip
over it, without too much stretching, as is often
the case with Woodpeckers and Ducks, skin
down to the base of the skull, cut off, draw the
head back, and place the beak in a hole made
in your work-table of a shape to hold it firmly.
Now make an incision on the top, about an
inch from the base of the mandible, down to
TAXIDERMISTS' MANUAL.
11
L
the base of the skull, being careful not to get
it too long, clean as before directed, poison
and carefully sew up. If you are not ready to
mount the bird, wrap it in a dry paper or
cloth, and keep it covered with moist cloths
until ready to finish, which should not be too
long delayed, unless you intend to preserve the
skin for future mounting. In this case, as in
dried skins, the feathers should be adjusted
and the neck and body loosely stuffed and laid
away to dry, and packing the head and legs
as carefully as possible. Dry skins should be
soaked or steamed soft, after removing the
filling, by the use of cotton, soaked in warm
water.
The sex of the specimen may be ascertained
after skinning by making an incision in the
side, near the vertebræ, and exposing the in-
side surface of the "small of the back.” The
generative organs will be found tightly bound
to this region, nearly opposite the last ribs,
and separating it from the intestines. The
testicles of the males will be observed as two
spheroidal, whitish bodies, varying with the
season and the species, from the size of a pin-
head to that of a hazel nut. The ovaries of
12
TAXIDERMISTS' MANUAL.
the female, consisting of a flattened mass of
spheres, varying in size with the season, will
be found in the same region.
Skinning Mammals.
In skinning mammals the same general fea-
tures are to be observed, except in separating
the legs, which should be close to the body.
The worst difficulty will be found in skinning
the tail. To effect this tie a knot of strong
cord over the severed end, fastening firmly to
some support. Strip the end out towards the
tip, holding the skin back with the fingers,
until it is forced off. Poison well to the ex-
treme end with No. 1, and if No. 1 will not
reach the end, use No. 2. In many cases
of animals it would be well to saturate the
skin two or three days in No. 2. Tails of
Beavers, Opossums, Muskrats, etc., should be
cut on the under side. Remove all muscle and
cords, poison, stuff, and sew up. To prevent
the attack of moths and to kill the eggs of
destructive insects on exposed parts of birds
or mammals, saturate the skin well with ben-
zine, by pouring or immersion, which will
prove a sure destructive. Keep in the case or
TAXIDERMISTS' MANUAL.
13
near it, in the summer, a solution of spirits of
camphor.
1
Reptiles.
The skinning of Lizards, Frogs, Salaman-
ders, Turtles, and Snakes, will present no dif-
ficulties to one used to ekinning birds or mam-
mals.
To skin a snake, open its mouth and sepa-
rate the skull from the vertebræ, detaching all
the muscle that adheres to the skin.
Tie a
strong cord round the stump of the neck thus
exposed; holding on to this, strip the skin
down to the extremity of the tail. Thus in-
verted, poison, turn back, and stuff with either
sand or sawdust, giving it a natural position
and form.
In skinning a Turtle, saw or cut the breast
plate from the back, remove all muscle, poison,
stuff where it is needed, and sew or glue to-
gether, as in your judgment is best ; or, with
out removing the breast-plate, split the skin
from the anterior end of it to the symphysis o
the lower jaw, and another from the posterir
end to the vent or tip of the tail.
14
TAXIDERMISTS' MANUAL.
Fish.
Skin Fish, as you would a bird or mammal.
Make the incision along the right side or bel-
ly; remove the skin by cutting the fins at
their base; clean the cavity of the head ; cut
the eye on the inside, leaving the cornea and
pupil, unless you wish to insert a glass one, in
which case remove as in a bird ; cut a piece of
black cloth or paper, of the size of the eye ;
place it close to the pupil ; poison, stuff, sew,
etc. A coat of varnish applied to the outside
will add much to the looks.
Insects.
Beetles and all insects can be well preserved
in 60 per cent. alcohol, or fourth proof whis-
ky. Kill all moths, etc., by putting them
into a wide-mouthed bottle, and immersing it
in hot water, or exposing them to the vapor
of ether or spts. of ammonia, or, better than
either, if not hairy, to Solution No. 2.
Mounting Birds.
If the bird you are to mount be a small
one, say the size of a robin, take finely-cut
tow, or, if large, soft hay, and with your small
TAXIDERMISTS' MANUAL.
15
stuffers fill the space between the lower man-
dible. Then, with a little roll fill the cavity
in the skull. Now fill out the neck gently to
the breast, except in owls which should be
filled but little, and ip Herons or long-necked
birds the filling should be wound round the
neck-wire, with soft hay or tow, to give it a
perfectly natural appearance. Be careful not
to leave bunches or stretch the neck in the least.
After filling the neck, tie the wing bones about
half an inch apart, varying the distance across
the body according to the size of the bird.
First, tie one wing strongly midway of the
bone, then make a loop half an inch from it
and tie the other bone to it. Cut off the knobs
or large bunches on the ends, and then place
'tow under the loop, next to the skin, to meet
what was put into the neck, to give the back
full and even appearance. Take of your
wire No. 19, which is about the No. for '&.
robin and the size of a common knitting-needle,
some 8 inches, or long enough to wind well
around the perch; sharpen one end and sandpa
per smooth. Cut a small hole in the bottom of
the foot, and, with a twisting motion, push the
wire up through on the inside of the leg, past
1
16
TAXIDERMISTS MANUAL.
the heel, to the end of the bone. Wind the
tow around the bone and wire, nearly the size
it was when the muscle was on, beginning at
the end of the bone and leaving off at the heel,
to give your tow a fastening when you draw
the skin back. This should be done immedi-
ately, being careful to smooth out all the feath-
Now—and this rule applies in all cases to
birds-take of the No. 19 wire a portion lon-
ger by one third than the length from tip of
beak to tip of tail. Bend it over on one end
to the size and shape of the bird's body, thus:
ers.
And fasten it firmly. Using this loop as a
basis, with soft hay or well-hatcheled tow, form
a body precisely the shape of the body you took
from the bird, which the beginner should keep
to pattern from, and wrap well with thread
to keep it in form It must not be made
so hard that the wire will not pass through
it with a twisting motion easily. Lay the skin
on its back, and, taking the head and neck in
your left hand, run the neck wire of the body
TAXIDERMISTS' MANUAL.
17
up through the center of the filling in the neck
into the cavity of the skull and out through
the top of the head. Draw the skin around
the breast into its proper place. Pass the leg
wires through the body at right angles, where
the knees would come if the bird was alive,
far enough to be hooked over into the body
firmly with the small wire-twisters, and to
make it stand firmly on the perch. Bring the
legs into their proper places and gently draw
the skin to its place over the body, bringing
the edges of the skin together. If the bird is
not full enough, fill out with fine cut tow to a
natural fullness. Pin into the body with small
pins, instead of sewing, though large birds
should be sewed. Cover over the incision
with the feathers. Put a wire through the base
of the tail, into the body, to keep it firmly in
place, except in ducks.
To spread the tail, pass a small, sharp wire,
steel, if handy, through the quills near the base.
Make a temporary perch in the form of the let-
ter “T." Sharpen the lower end of the up-
right and place it in a hole in your work-
table, so that after the bird is upon it you can
turn it in any direction. Slightly stretch the
18
TAXIDERMISTS' MANUAL.
head up towards the end of the wire and work
the wings into their natural place, taking care
to have them both of one length. Now pass
8 wire through the end into the body at the
carpal joint, so as to pin it firmly and have it
look natural, seeing that none of the feathers
are crossed Bring the head back and give it
a life-like position for its kind. Then, taking
your knitting-needle, seize every feather that
is out of place by the thumb and needle, and
draw it into its place.
Having got the bird to look natural, put
common pins into the body, about one-half
their length, to which the winding strings may
be fastened. Put three along the back, four
along the belly and breast, and two on each
side.
Tie one end of your thread to one of the
wing wires, which, in all cases, should be left
out at some length to help in winding the
bird. First proceed to carefully wind down
the wings to their places. After this wind all
parts of the bird, from one pin to another, be
ing careful not to ruffle the feathers in doing
BO and leaving every part to dry smooth and
natural.
TAXIDERMISTS' MANUAL.
19
1
It will take about ten days for a small bird
to dry so that the feathers will not spring out
of place.
The bird should be well watched
while drying, and if it have crest, wattles, or
any like feature that you wish to show promi-
nently, it should often be pulled or pressed
into shape, while drying.
To spread the wings, put the wire through
the carpal bones or quills of the outer feathers
of the wings, passing it along the under side
so as to cover the wire by the feathers, and
run it into the body. When thoroughly dried
the winding may be removed, the pins pulled
out and the wing wires cut off.
To put in the eyes, first press in the cotton
that is in the socket. Take cotton that you
have already soaked in warm water, and fill it
into and on the outside of the eye, so as to
soak the lid inside and out. This, on a small
bird, will take nearly an hour. After it is
done take out the wet cotton only, and fill
with soft putty that has been colored with
lampblack, if the eye is dark colored. Bed the
eye in this and adjust the lid, by 'the use of
the knitting-needle, in its natural position,
The body-wire, which comes out through the
20
TAXIDERMISTS' MANUAL.
top of the head, and which in all cases should
be left until after the eyes are in, for the pur-
pose of steadying the head, should then be cut
off. The bird can now be placed on a stool
or perch, made and ornamented according to
the fancy of the mounter.
Mounting Mammals.
First stuff the head and neck to their natural
shape and fullness. Then put the wires up
through the legs, and as in birds, wind with
tow; with hay, if they are large. Lay the skin
on its back, at full length, and measure a No.
16 wire eight inches longer, say for a gray
squirrel, than the body. Make a circle, by
bending one end of the wire so that it shall be
about an inch in diameter ; now form a knob
made of soft hay and wound with thread, for
the leg wires to be passed through and be
firmly fastened, as in birds. Having made the
one for the hind legs, make another of the
same size and shape for the forward legs,
where they should come.
TAXIDERMISTS' MANUAL.
21
+
Sharpen and sandpaper the end that is to go
up through the neck, and then pass it, with, a
twisting motion through the center of the fil-
ling in the neck, into the cavity, and out
through the top of the head. Fasten the
leg wires firmly to the knobs.
Having done this, fill underneath and around
the body wires and thighs with soft tow or
hay, to give a natural fullness and form. With
a needle and strong thread begin between the
fore legs to sew up, passing the needle on the
underside, and sew out so as not to draw the
fur or hair in.
Fill as you sew.
If the case
requires it, when it is nearly sewed up, cut a
wire of the same No. as was used for the body,
sharpen both ends, and pass one end through
the knob, between the hind legs, into the tail
to its end. Now hook the other end into the
knob firmly, that you may control the shape
of the tail as you please.
Finish sewing and mount on a stool, either
sitting, standing or running, as your taste
prompts. Watch the ears, emellers, mouth,
toes, and all parts that require it while drying,
and often press them into shape.
22
TAXIDERMISTS' MANUAT
Preparing Skeletons.
The best method of preparing skeletons for
it cabinet is to cut away, as much as possible,
all the fat and muscle and then macerate by al-
lowing it to soak in cold water, running if con-
venient. Brush and scrape at times until
perfectly clean. Bleach by placing in the
sun. Small skeletons can be obtained by plac-
ing them near an ant's nest, or in water con-
taining tadpoles. Clean off grease that comes
out from the bone by a free use of lime water.
Mount and wire, if you wish.
TAXIDERMISTS' MANUAL.
23
1
Preserving Eggs.
Eggs can be emptied of their contents when
fresh, by making a small pin-hole in each end
and carefully holding it over water, in order
to prevent breaking in case of dropping, and
by blowing or sucking out their contents.
If the chick has formed, cut out a small cir-
ole on one end and remove it. In all cases
earefully wash out with poison No. 2. Re-
place the piece with glue or paste, using tis-
sue paper if required. Arrange them by plao-
ing each variety under glass, in separate pla-
ces, on pink cotton, with name or number of
variety on or by each.
24
TAXIDERMISTS MANUAL
Mounting Insects.
Wingless insects, as Spiders, Scorpions, Cerr-
tipedes, or Thousand Legs, as well as all kinds
of worms, are best preserved in spirits. But-
terflies, Beetles, and all of the Moth spocies,
should have a small pin or needle put through
the thorax to fasten them to the soft wood. or
cork back of a frame. Put beneath the glass
a small paper roll containing gum camphor,
which, by slow evaporation, will prevent the
attack of insects Arrange and classify ac-
cording to fancy.
!
General Remarks:
It has been the aim to give in this work the
surest, most easy and simple instruction.-
Although small, the information could not be
obtained of a practical taxidermist for less
than fifty dollars. If the directions are fol-
lowed, sure success will be the result.
.
There are often unforeseen obstacles to over-
come, for which, of course, no directions can
be given. It is left to one's judgment to dis-
pose of them as the case may require.
The writer has had most extensive facilities.
for obtaining a thorough knowledge of the
28
TAXIDERMISTS' MANUAL.
taxidermical art, in all its branches, from one
who learned it from Prof. Ogden, at one time
taxidermist of the Boston Museum and the
Boston Society of Natural History, and who
was acknowledged to have no superior in this
country.
To aid one in mounting and learning the
specimens and habits of the birds of North
America, "Wilson's American Ornithology,"
published by t. L. Cornish, 310 Broadway
N. Y., is now the best known cheap work; as
it contains numerous small cuts and natural
positions to mount from.
In getting specimens, strict regard should be
paid to the laws, and no bird protected by the
same should be killed, unless actually want-
ed for mounting. In shooting all small birds
use the finest shot, and always observe the po-
sition before shooting. Note especially the
color of the eye. Put cotton in the beak, nos-
trils, anus, and shot-holes, to prevent the flow
of blood and the soiling of the plumage. Get
full-plumaged birds and not those that are
half-fledged, for they are not perfect speci-
mens.
TAXIDERMISTS' MANUAL.
29
After shooting, the bird should be placed in
a paper tunnel, to prevent the breaking of
quills and ruffling of feathers. Birds and mam-
mals should not be skinned until the blood
has coagulated, or the muscle and cords re-
laxed, as the skin is then more easily removed
and the blood seldom flows.
Most of the tools, as knife, scissors, wire-
twisters, vice, gouge, files, awls, wire-cutters
etc., can be found in any village hard-ware
store; putty, paints, varnish, smalts, etc., at
any paint-shop; tow at cordage factories and
rope-walks ; arsenic, alum, strychnine, cam-
phor, glue, alcohol, etc., at the drug-store.-
Stuffers will generally have to be made by the
blacksmith, as you order them. Annealed
wire, of all sizes, can usually be found at the
tin shops or wire factories ; if not, get the
number you wish and soften by heating and
cooling gradually. Artificial eyes of all col-
ors can be obtained at the stores of natural-
sts; leaves and artificial flowers and colored
mosses, for trimming perches, at wholesale
milliners.

TAXIDERMISTS' MANUAL,
CIVING full instruction in Skinning. Mounting and Pre-
serving Birds, Animals, Reptiles, Fishes, Insects, Eggs,
Skeletons, &c. Sent by mail, postpaid, on receipt of $1.00.
ADDRESS S. H. SYLVESTER, TAXIDERMIST,
Middleboro', Mass.
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