XX
CONQUEST
OF
NEW MEXICO
AND
CALIFORNIA
COOLE
A 845,125
PUTNAM

UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
3 9015 02664 5393
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THE CONQUEST
OF
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA:
}
AN HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL NARRATIVE.
By P. ST. GEO. COOKE,
BRIGADIER, BREVET MAJOR-GENERAL, U. S. A.
AUTHOR OF
SCENES AND ADVENTURES IN THE ARMY; OR, ROMANCE
OF MILITARY LIFE," ETC.
NEW YORK
G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS
182 FIFTH AVENUE
1878
Um
E
411
277
:
COPYRIGHT BY G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS, 1878.
幾
​!
Gift
Lib. Hubbard
3-30-28
PREFACE.
HE first historical narrative of the Con-
THE
quests of New Mexico and California,
is here offered to the public.
They were conquests as much of Nature's
most inhospitable wastes, as of those primi-
tive and isolated communities, and so exhib-
ited great privations and labors; but some
perilous ventures and exploits tinctured the
whole with the old romance of the original
Spanish invaders.
The conquerors were, for a year, almost
beyond communication with government or
countrymen, and these were wholly interested
in the battles in Mexico; and thus it hap-
pened that a few soldiers and sailors, without
iv
PREFACE.
sympathy or applause, achieved the only per-
manent fruits of the war.
This obscurity, and the remoteness of re-
sponsibility, led also to criminal intrigues as
well as to patriotic sacrifices; and the time.
has come to give the world a connected and
permanent record.
ļ
CONTENTS.
I.
PAGE
NEW MEXICO
I
II.
THE INSURRECTION IN NEW MEXICO AND THE FINAL
CONQUEST
III.
•
THE INFANTRY MARCH TO THE PACIFIC
CALIFORNIA.
IV.
V.
FINAL CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA
•
III
125
•
198
263
:
THE CONQUEST OF
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
I.
NEW MEXICO.
OTWITHSTANDING the country by the
NOT
policy and measures of the executive branch
of the government had for many months been
surely drifting toward war with Mexico, the public
was electrified by the news of a collision of arms
and brilliant victories at Palo Alto and Resaca de
la Palma, May 8th and 9th, 1846. Thus was ter-
minated," By the act of the Republic of Mexico,"
Congress declared on the 13th of May-our peace
with all the world, which had continued so long that
we had begun to look upon war as a chimera.
The first plans of the government were promptly
developed General Taylor crossed the Rio Grande
and advanced with his army of "occupation
I
on
2
THE CONQUEST OF
the long line toward the city of Mexico; General
Wool formed a column at San Antonio, Texas, for
the invasion of Chihuahua; and Colonel Kearny,
First Dragoons, organized a small force at Fort
Leavenworth, Kansas, for the conquest of New
Mexico, and ultimately of California. He marched
June 30th.
Company F. Third Artillery sailed July 14th,
from New York for California; and in September a
regiment of New York Infantry Volunteers, Colonel
Stevenson, also embarked for that destination;
(They all arrived the following year).
Later a regiment of Missouri mounted volun-
teers, Colonel Price, was organized and marched
early in the fall for Santa Fè.
Colonel Kearny had sent Captain James Allen,
First Dragoons, to meet near Council Bluffs, Iowa,
the migration westward of the Mormon community,
which had shortly before been expelled from
Nauvoo, Illinois; he was instructed to enroll a
battalion of five hundred, to be organized under
him as Lieutenant Colonel, at Fort Leavenworth;
and to follow the army to Santa Fè. And, finally,
Colonel Kearny had "demanded" two additional
+
1 I
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
3
troops of first dragoons, on the Upper Mississippi,
which had been ordered to the seat of war at the
South, should follow and report to him. And
accordingly on reaching St. Louis together, they
encountered an order to that effect.
Their captains were E. V. Sumner and the
writer; and they were inexpressibly disappointed.
New Mexico was then supposed to be the only
objective of this column.
We embarked for Fort Leavenworth, and
marched from there July 6th.
I find the following in my diary for July 21st.
"The howls of wolves, in which I ever took a sin-
gular pleasure, swelling upon the night breeze, set
my pen in motion. This has been a jolly day for
Mark Tapleys-a very hot and still day with swarms
of horse flies. I came ahead to hunt, (a solitary
heron was all I saw larger than a fly,) and I was
forced to stop, dismount and brush my horse vigor-
ously for a half hour, until the column came up to
make the fight more equal. Then a slight air from
behind brought with us a cloud of dust. We turned
off, near a mile, over rough ground it happened, to
'noon' at the bank of the Arkansas (it is a horrid
4
THE CONQUEST OF
practice). After that a storm threatened, and the
wind shifted right ahead, which for dust was nearly
as bad; and finally it came with a great blast from
the North, which fairly blew us, for a moment, out
of the road!
"Now the thunders are rolling and promise a wet
night, to which we are well nigh hardened. A week
ago we had very severe hail, which stampeded the
horses, and one was lost. Writing back, I may
mention that one day we passed through vast mul-
titudes of buffaloes; the next day there were many,
and since very few. A horse and some mules,
allowed to run loose on the march, effectually
knocked up, we thought, took, very late in life, a
fancy for freedom, and ran off with a herd of buffalo;
they were with difficulty recovered after a chase of
six miles !"
July 28th.-Rain or shine, we have averaged
28 miles! Another dull week, but why not mention.
that our prairie and muddy river monotony was
relieved by not unpleasant reminiscences to me, as
we passed at 100° W. Lon. near, but on the south
side, that rare feature, a small grove to which the
writer three years ago, had, of right, given a name
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
5
Jackson's Grove, for there in emulation of that great
soldier's decision he had crossed a force through the
flooded Arkansas into doubtful territory of unsur-
veyed boundaries, to attack and disarm two hun-
dred men, the "Army of Texas," who lay in wait to
capture large Mexican caravans, as soon as they
should pass the river above, from under his escort.
Citizens of a territory on which he now marched
with military impartiality, to make war in their turn!
And forty or fifty miles on, we passed by
"Chouteau's Island" where, when quite a youth,
he made first acquaintance with those savage
Scythians, the Comanches, and had the fortune,
detached with thirty veteran infantry, to face and
break the charge of full five hundred, while a six-
pounder sent round shot above his head.
July 31st.-Most pleasant it was to-day to
come in sight of the white tents of the army, spread
out in the green meadows of the river; a multitude
of animals grazing; the life and stir of preparation ;
mounted orderlies in motion; old friends flocking
out with smiles of welcome."
August 1st. The army of the West' consists
of a regiment of cavalry, two batteries of horse
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THE CONQUEST OF
artillery, two companies of infantry-all raw vol-
unteers, and six troops of First Dragoons, U. S.
A.; about seventeen hundred rank and file.
The march is ordered for to-morrow.
Our camp
is about nine miles below" Bent's Fort," a trading
post which has become more familiar by name than
any national forts; and is in reality the only fort
at the West.
About noon I was sent for, and the general
greatly surprised me by a proposition that I should
set out in advance, with a flag of truce to Santa Fè,
some three hundred miles.
In our conversation, he assured me that he
attached much importance to it-that he had
waited for me; and otherwise would have sent his
chief of staff; that if there should be fighting, I
would undoubtedly return and meet him before it
began.
I go to-morrow, with twelve picked men of my
troop. Mr. James Magoffin of Kentucky and Señor
Gonzales of Chihuahua have permission to accom-
pany me—both merchants of caravans, which rather
singularly, are now journeying to New Mexico,
and beyond.
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
7
August 2d.—I set out at the same hour the army
marched, and fell in with the general at its head;
and so rode with him to Bent's Fort. My mission
was not soothing to the regret at being turned aside
from the stirring war scenes at the south; it was in
fact a pacific one. The general had just issued a
proclamation of annexation of all the territory east of
the Rio Grande; the government thus adopting the
old claim of Texas; and thus, manifestly, in a states-
man's view, a bloodless process would lead to its
confirmation in the treaty of peace; and the pop-
ulation would be saved from the bitterness of passing
sub jugum. The difficulty of a half measure re-
mains; it cuts the isolated province in two! there
must be an influential Micawber in the Cabinet.
At a plaintive compliment, that I went to plant
the olive, which he would reap a laurel, the general
endeavored to gloss the barren field of toil, to which
his subordinates at least, were devoted; and rather
unsuccessful, he then revealed his ulterior instruc-
tions for the conquest of California. He had been
promised the grade of brigadier general, to date
with the march for that territory. A regiment or
two would follow us to New Mexico.
A
!
8
THE CONQUEST OF
New deserts to conquer! That was giving to
our monotonous toils a grandeur of scale that tinc-
tured them with adventure and excitement.
At the Fort I stopped to procure a pack mule.
I found it excessively crowded; a focus of business.
and curiosity: it is the land of Scythian Comanches,
the audacious Cheyennes, here were many races.
and colors, a confusion of tongues, of rank and
condition, and of cross purposes. Meanwhile the
long column of horse continually passed, fording the
river; but officers were collecting stragglers, and
straggling themselves.
My business completed, I found Don Santiago,
as the Mexicans call Mr. Magoffin, had been prom-
ised a stirrup cup, if any private nook was found
possible. A long hot desert ride was in prospect;
and Mr. Bent had an ice house; our patience was
strengthened. At last vigilant eyes recognized a
signal from a flat house top. With unconscious
mien, we wound our way through the thirsty and
curious crowd, up a winding stair, and, dexterously
we thought, into a sentry box of a room, and lo! a
long necked straggler-genus Pike-slipped in with
us! We gave him a chilling stare; he took it com-
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
9
fortably. A pitcher covered with a dew of promise,
caught our eyes; it brimmed with broken ice, and
there was a suggestive aroma which softened our
hearts. We fraternized, and soon finished the glo-
rious punch.
At last we were ready; but my new pack mule
instantly dashed in full and clattering charge through
scattering stragglers; away flew cups and pans,-
and away started skittish nags with vociferous riders.
Juan and Jose charged after, through the loud
laughing crowd; I laughed, myself, despite my luck
less mess kit. The foolish mule, so resentful of an
unwonted crupper, soon succumbed to the more fa-
miliar virtues of Juan's lazo; order was restored,
and we followed the long procession fording the
Arkansas River.
All attempt to pass this wonderfully mobile army
was found to be vain; and so, with my handful of
troopers I was content to follow, for many hours;
amused at times by the humors of my companions,
Magoffin and Gonzales, who drove somewhat in
advance. As we passed in the vicinity of several
corrals and camps of the caravan merchants—who
were required to await the motions of the army—I
**
ΙΟ
THE CONQUEST OF
could see Juan gallop off, bottle in hand; for his
master, whose provision of wine defied all human.
exigencies, had failed in the rare article of brandy,
which he also appreciated. "Won't they say," he
cried out, "what a clever fellow that is in the black
carretilla to send us down a bottle of brandy;" but
Juan returned light handed from each visit.
Señor M. now and then gave his fine horses a
short gallop; then Gonzales would with violent ef-
forts, force his shabby mules to keep close up,—
only to be checked, very suddenly, to a walk. No
American would have risked such looking mules for
a day's journey; but the Mexicans, not learned nor
wise, are masters in the science of mules! Although
in this case there was no secret, there is a mystery
about it; Jose, while G. drove, rode by the side of the
team, almost incessantly and laboriously whipping!
A hot dusty ride we had through the flat wilder-
ness; the army made that day, a march of thirty-
seven miles. That fact was enough to indicate that
it had an extraordinary leader, and that it might
successfully defy all rule and precedent.
At last, as the sun was setting, I saw the troops
leaving the road to camp; and although there was
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
I I
no indication of water beyond, I kept on; and after
I had entirely passed, came in sight of some tents,
and directed there my course; I found it the camp
of the small battalion of infantry who had marched
the previous day.
We were hospitably welcomed; but there was
scant grass for the few animals, and the water of the
little stream, the Timpe, was a weak but decided
solution of Epsom salts. Variety in diet is pleasing;
but extremes not always. Capt. Angney, the com-
mander, had procured at the fort, some molasses,-
for the consideration of a dollar the pint—and that,
with strong thirst, helped down the tepid Timpe.
After all its effects were moderate.
Next morning we were off betimes with the in-
fantry; the scenery all day was wild, and strange
to us; bare of trees or grass,-save on the ridges
where cedars and pines were to be seen; our informa-
tion indicated no water short of a very long march.
But by taking a horse trail, and passing along a
ridge, near noon, a good spring was found, and there
we passed several hours under the shade of piñon
trees, indulging in lunch, with claret wine and piñon
nuts for dessert.
12
THE CONQUEST OF
In the afternoon, the road being very difficult, I
got far ahead of the carriages; near sundown I over-
took numerous infantry stragglers, suffering from ex-
treme thirst. Just at dark, I saw the battalion camp
fires, but beyond a rocky and deep ravine which we
could not cross. We managed, however, to get
water, and bivouacked above under the little cedar
trees. I heard my sergeant discussing with his
party, that extraordinary infantry, which, with our
fine horses, we could not pass; but he said, "if
regulars were to straggle so, they would be con-
sidered as mutinizing.
August 4th-We pushed on, over more bad
ground, twenty miles to the next water, a mere
muddy pond, where we found antelope and elk.
After a short nooning, we saw the battalion coming,
and Don Santiago expressing great apprehension of
being "run over by that long legged infantry," we
hastened to depart. We stopped late, on the Las
Animas, also called the Purgatory, at the foot of the
Raton Mountain. It is a fine, bold stream, which
mouths fifteen miles below Bent's Fort. It has a
well known cañon; its high precipices protect
groves and grass; and, besides the warm shelter for
}
:
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
13
animals, there is said to be good grazing the year
round.
Next morning we followed the difficult road up
the Raton; this mountain is seventy-five hundred
feet high, and is well covered with lofty pines, oaks,
etc.; it has been dreaded for the baggage train.
There is a shorter route to Santa Fe which
passes no mountain, or very bad road; but this one.
by Bent's Fort was selected as better meeting the
needs of the expedition. The other, the "Cimarone
Route," is much more deficient in fuel, and has a
dreaded jornada; while that by Bent's Fort has in
the fort on the frontier a quasi base.
I followed a small stream nearly to the top of
the mountain, the carriages far behind. There I
stopped for nooning, on an inviting green slepe,
very near the streamlet, and in the shadow of some
grand old pines.
Fatigued as I was, there was much that was
delightful in this solitary repose, besides the fresh
mountain air. Lowlanders never see such pure
blue skies; and now snow-white clouds drifting
over, intensified the blue above, and by their shad-
owings, added life and beauty to the landscape
14
THE CONQUEST OF
pictures below; and there was a gentle breeze, just
enough to give that spirit-like music of the pine
leaves, and in harmony with the purl of the moun-
tain brook.
Here were varying and very perfect sensuous
enjoyments, which were elevating too; their effects
on me were so joyous and abstracting, that two
fawns came down the opposite slope and drank ten
paces off, without arousing the destructive hunter's
instinct, or at all reminding me of the rifle at my
side.
At last, with sounds of wheels and whips, came
the carriages; Magoffin humorous with affected
anger at the hard chase I had led him.
He was in the vein to-day; reclining on the
grass, after lunch, he made a long speech to Gon-
zales, in the most sonorous Spanish, about liberty
and equality, and the thousand advantages of being
conquered by our arms. Then, chuckling, he
swore the old rascal would get himself in the cala-
boose as soon as he got to Chihuahua. He then
held up, and addressed a pocket cork-screw, which,
he said he had carried eight years. "You have
cost me a thousand--five thousand dollars; but
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
15
what do I care for except a bottle of wine every
day; I work this way on purpose to keep you;
what is money good for? I would not say to a
bottle of champagne, 'I won't, I cannot use you,'
for a million of dollars. I travel this way every
year over deserts just to be able to have my wine
and educate my children. I will educate them as
long as they can stand it; give them all sorts of
teachers, to teach them all they can pound into
them; and when they say 'we have beaten into
their heads all that we possibly can,' then I will be
satisfied; that is all I want to do for them." But
no idea can be given of the embellishment which his
droll manner adds to his eccentric humor.
The view from the top of the mountain is very
extensive very fine; it embraces not only the
Spanish Peaks, but Pike's Peak, above one hundred
miles to their north.
The descent was long and rough; and my fool-
ish mule made another scamper, scattering my
humble but very important mess kit. The carre-
tillas did not come up, and I slept without shelter
on the flat and barren bank of an upper stream of
"Red River "-the Canadian of the maps. Next
16
THE CONQUEST OF
day it was the same, and I bivouacked at a water
pool. The third day they overtook me, at noon, at
the Riado. Don Santiago's claret was very welcome
again; he had broken his carriage pole, descending
the mountain, but declared it was now much strong-
er than before.
In the afternoon we separated again, passing
strange wild scenery. We suffered want of water—
passing at sunset a wide shallow pond saturated.
with some vile salts. The road ascended then,
to what seemed a great inclined shelf of the
mountain.
We rode very late, hoping for water. The light
of even a full moon gave an imperfect idea of the
strange scenery, but seemed to excite vague ima-
ginings. On the soft road we did not disturb the
profound and lifeless silence. Imagine then our
wonder, to hear unwarned, several rapid explosions,
identical in sound to near cannon shots. Only then
we saw coming over the near horizon of a mountain
ridge, the rapid invasion of our serene sky by a
thunder cloud in black points which were not unlike
the column heads of an attacking army. And then
we were in a shower, with moonlight all around;
1
}
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
17
and very soon passed on this phantom cloud, leaving
all serene as if it had not been.
But it is very vain to attempt to describe it all
-to excite sympathetic appreciation; it is the
mere chance of a wanderer's lifetime to witness such
a spectacle, with all its attendant and weird
surroundings.
I observed for some time a singular dark streak
to our left; and at last, partly in curiosity, discovered
it to be a chasm, a precipitous ravine, with a little
stream of water; and so there we spent the rest of
the night.
Next day, August 8th, we passed along the very
singular valley, where Fort Union was afterward
built, and a ride of twenty-eight miles brought us to
the Mora, a bright stream which here breaks out of
the high table land, a kind of base to the high Rocky
Mountain ridge which had long been on our right.
Here we first saw houses, two or three, and cat-
tle and sheep. This settlement was not an out-
growth of the Territory, but an approach of civili-
zation; the proprietors being an Englishman and an
American; a very doubtful civilization, too, adul-
terated by wilderness habits and Indian intercourse.
18
THE CONQUEST OF
Next day sixteen miles over a prairie table-land
brought us to its steep road-limit, from whence we
overlooked a valley with a stream; we saw corn-
fields and herds; but where was Los Vegas, which
should be there? I saw, I thought, a great clay
bank, a singular one indeed, but I thought it must.
be an extensive brick-yard and kilns. In fact it
was Vegas; the dwellings being in low square
blocks, sides and tops of sun-dried yellow bricks or
adobes; the streets, and a large square, being of
the same color.
Then we saw the people running and riding
about in excitement and apparent confusion; mount-
ing in hot haste, driving in herds of ponies, cattle,
goats. I hardly believed the appearance, on the bluff,
of my party of horse to be the occasion of it all;
and as I drew nearer I doubted more and more, for
a large party came galloping in my direction.
This hostile demonstration was too doubtful, in
my view, for momentary solution; if it occurred to
me to display a flag of truce, I was unprepared to do
so, and could only continue my advance in the best
order to meet the worst. All doubt was soon.
solved by these eccentric cavaliers, formidable at
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
19
least in appearance, passing at the gallop to our left.
I marched on with increasing astonishment, tinged
with a shade of mortification. I soon learned that
this very characteristic introduction to New Mexican
life, was caused by the wild Indians having killed
a shepherd or two, at a distance of two leagues, and
driven off their flock. And such was the measure
of New Mexican efficiency-to gallop off in confu-
sion, and without provision, to a pursuit, in which,
if the robbers were overtaken, it would be at the
moment when their own horses were quite blown,
or exhausted.
I rode with Mr. M. to the home of the alcalde,
who was his old acquaintance: quite a number of
his neighbors visited us and expressed pleasure at
their prospects, and some whiskey was handed round
in an earthen cup.
There is some mixture of stone in the structure
of the houses; that material being here very con-
venient and suitable; but the village, with its small
fields, scarcely fenced, differed little from those of
our Pawnees in appearance; these dwellings are
smaller and square instead of round; fine moun-
tain streams are
near, and
and are conducted—as
20
THE CONQUEST OF
*
usual-by the main canal of irrigation, through
the place.
While my horses were fed, we sat down to a din-
ner; it was composed of a plate, for each, of poached
eggs, and wheaten tortillas; seeing some cheese on
a small pine table, I asked for a knife to cut it ;-the
old man went to a hair trunk, and produced a very
common pocket knife. The room had a smooth
earthen floor; it was partly covered by a kind of
carpeting of primitive manufacture, in white and
black or natural coloring of the wool;-it is called
Jerga; around the room, mattresses, doubled pil-
lows, and coverlids, composed a kind of divan; the
walls were whitewashed, with gypsum,-which rub-
bing off easily, a breadth of calico was attached to
the walls above the divan; there was a doll-like
image of the virgin, and two very rude paintings on
boards and some small mirrors; the low room was
ceiled with puncheons, supporting earth ;--there
were several rough board chairs. The alcalde's
dress was a calico shirt,-very loose white cotton
drawers or trowsers, and over them another pair-
also very loose,-of leather, open far up at the outer
There appeared to be servants,-wild In-
seams.
▾
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
21
dians of full blood. This may serve for a general
picture.
The alcalde-profanely surnamed Dios-gave me
a very singular missive to his inferior magistrate of
the next village; it required him to furnish ten men
to watch my camp, that the Utahs should not steal
my horses, and my men might sleep.
He sent as I
afterward learned, a swift express by the mountain
paths, to the Governor at Santa Fè.
We passed, a few miles beyond Vegas, the best
named natural " gate" I had ever seen,-through a
ridge some four hundred feet high. The scenery of
my Piedmont route-from Raton to Santa Fè—
now greatly improved; wooded hills, many bright
streams, some natural parks. There had been a
shower here, and the red gravel road, and the buffa-
lo grass, under stately pines and cedars, looked
fresh swept and washed; the air was exhilarating,
but the charm over all was the almost dazzling sky.
Nine miles brought us to a commanding hill-top,
with a view of an extensive valley,-open, smooth,
cultivated; a bold stream was in its meadows;-
there were herds and flocks on the slopes, and groves
of pines; the mountains surrounded all.
22
THE CONQUEST OF
Tecolote, very like Las Vegas-was in the bot-
tom of the valley; the scene must have been peace-
ful; for apparently forgetful of the war, I left my es-
cort unsaddling for the night, and without showing
a flag, rode a quarter of a mile to the large crowd
gathered at the entrance of the village; saluting
them, I inquired for the alcalde, and in barbarous.
Spanish, told him as I presented the note, that I
wanted not men, but corn. And I got some, at
three dollars a bushel; and a sheep for a dollar and
a half; and milk and eggs and chickens were offered
for sale at my little camp.
With Don Santiago and Señor G. came some
of their acquaintances to supper in my tent; one of
the latter contributed a pocket-flask of aguadiente,
which could be recommended as strong. Gonzales
gave it cordial reception; and to his friends,-at
second hand,-the liberty and annexation lectures
of the Don with additions and embellishments.
August 10th.-The first novelty I saw this morn-
ing was a flock of milk goats going to pasture for the
day, in charge of a boy and two shepherd dogs. Sin-
gular it is, that the Spaniards occupied on this conti-
nent, and expanded over, precisely all the region,
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
23
of mountain and high arid plains, so resembling
Spain, that their national customs of agriculture by
irrigation, transportation by pack mules and asses,
the raising of flocks, etc., were strictly preserved;
and so natural and necessary was their introduction,
that it may account in part for their present homo-
geneousness with the aborigines.
I was struck on the road, with the number of
people passing, and their lively mood. We fell in
with one very merry party; chiefly the family of an
old man, as lively and active as a monkey, and not
much larger; perhaps it was a wedding party;-a
very pretty girl rode on an ass, which took into its
solemn head to penetrate our procession of large.
horses; and in spite of her guiding stick, she was
in danger; then a young man who rode a mule,
came spurring to her rescue, and seizing the donkey
with great vehemence by each ear, dragged him
forth; the girl's face was very expressive both of hu-
mor and anxiety; as for the old man, his excitement
carried his donkey to a gallop, while the hills rang
with his shouts and laughter.
San Miguel, built of dull red adobes, in a dull red
surrounding country, was now before us on the first
24
THE CONQUEST OF
hill beyond the Pecos; this stream is here very pleas-
ant to the eye, running swift and clear, a foot or
two deep and a hundred wide, through meadows
green with wheat and corn,-this last only three feet.
up to the tassel,—the former, spring wheat, reaped
in September. The town turned out to see us, but
I made no stay. The road turning up the Pecos
valley, passed for some twenty miles along the rath-
er broken declivity,—hills and deep clay gullies,—
of, what to all appearance, was a respectable moun-
tain six hundred feet high; but which in fact is the
break of a famous vast table land, destitute of water.
We got on about fifteen miles; caught now and
then by a mountain shower, of this the rainy season;
and camped at a rain pool, under some fine trees.
August 11th.-The Don last night bragged very
much of his cook, and of his manufacture of soup of a
turtle he had captured. It was poison to me; and so
I had to supplement it with a small lump of opium,
which, with little relief to my agony, prostrated my
strength. And so I had to ride all day in his car-
riage, and got only a passing view of some interest-
ing ruins; [to Americans, especially, who, with a
reputation for boasting, are worst off,—of all things
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
25
!
-for antiquities; and so it happens we make much
of "broken pottery ;" and when we find in the woods
any eccentric hillocks or mounds, or the ruins of
adobe huts, straightway a cipher is added to their
probable age, and they are pressed into the service
of American archæology]. It was the ruins of a
walled town called Pecos-which I have visited
since-standing on a hill-top, between two branches
of Pecos River; three mountain ridges and three
valleys meet, (it is something like Harper's Ferry,)
with vistas here of far off peaks. A beautiful pano-
rama! On the bare mountain sides of neutral tints,
in this pure rare atmosphere the sun plays master
painter, with floating clouds for his help-and ever
changes the picture as he moves.
Here we see, only partially ruined, the temples
of two religions which met in rivalry-the Aztec,
with unceasing altar fire, and that of Rome, with its
graven images; the former an ignorant, honest su-
perstition with a basis of morality; the latter, degen-
erated in this far isolation, steeped in immorality,
embodied in spectacles and ceremonies, and degrad-
ing all that is high and holy to the level of sense—
the depths of superstition.
2
2
26
THE CONQUEST OF
Some contend that the Roman Catholic religion.
was only grafted on the Aztec; that the two were
harmoniously blended; this is surely affirmed of
the present religion of the Pueblos here. It is stated,
(but it sounds like a tradition, such is the ignorance
of this people, without a press,) that only some seven
years ago, the sacred fire was taken from the estufa
here, by a small remnant of the tribe, to the Pueblos
of Zuñi, not very distant to the south-west.
A
But we drove on, and some miles brought us to
the wild rocky cañon, where, a few days later,
four or five thousand men were very strongly posted
to give battle to our army. I took care to find out,
however, and observed how, it could be turned.
My escort got ahead; and when, six or eight miles
from Santa Fè, I determined to stop, they, not
having discovered the water, had gone on; and so
in much suffering and uneasiness I lay down under
a bush; my stomach refusing every thing, until
after midnight, when I drank a little claret wine,
which Don Santiago had kindly insisted on putting
within my reach.
Next morning, August 12th, we pushed on, an
on the high barren hills, almost in sight of Santa Fè,
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
27
1
to my great relief, the escort joined me: I mounted
then, and we approached the "city." At the foot,
or at the extremity of a main ridge of the Rocky
Mountains, in the midst of a grey barren country
without grass, and in the sandy flat valley of a
mountain stream, there it was, like a very extensive
brick-yard indeed.
Fording the bright and rocky little river, I rode
through a long crooked street, passing crowds of
people who generally returned my salutation of
buenos dias, "good morning to you." I lost sight
of the carretillas, and going rather at random, sud-
denly found myself in front of the quarter of a large
guard, who at view of my horsemen, howled out
their "alarm," with so hideous intonation, that I
mistook it for a menace. For the first time, I
thought it would not be amiss to air my flag of
truce; so I placed a white handkerchief on the point
of my sabre, and the officer of the guard advancing
to meet me, I announced my mission in a sentence
of very formal book-Spanish; he gave me a direc-
tion, to the right I thought, and looking up a nar-
row street, I saw a friendly signal, pushed on, and em-
erging, found myself and party on the plaza, crowd-
28
THE CONQUEST OF
ed by some thousands of soldiers and countrymen,
called out en masse, to meet our army. We made
our way with some difficulty, toward the "palace,"
and coming to a halt, my trumpeter sounded a parley.
It was some time before I was attended to; and it
was a feeling between awkwardness and irritation.
that was at last relieved by the approach of an officer,
the "Mayor de Plaza ;" and he again went into the
palace and returned, before he was ready to conduct
me thither.
.----4
I entered from the hall, a large and lofty apart-
ment, with a carpeted earth floor, and discovered the
governor seated at a table, with six or eight military
and civil officials standing. There was no mistaking
the governor, a large fine looking man, although his
complexion was a shade or two darker than the
dubious and varying Spanish; he wore a blue frock
coat, with a rolling collar and a general's shoulder
straps, blue striped trowsers with gold lace, and
a red sash. He rose when I was presented to
him; I said I was sent to him by the general com-
manding the American army, and that I had a let-
ter, which I would present at his convenience. He
said he had ordered quarters for me, and that my
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
29
horses should be grazed near the town, by his sol-
diers, there being no corn; he hoped I would
remain as long as it pleased me. I then took my
leave. I was conducted by Captain Ortiz, Mayor
de Plaza, to his quarters, and shown into a large
long room, looking upon the court, and told “it was
mine;" which truly Spanish politeness was belied
soon after by the presence of Señor Gonzales: the
room was carpeted, had one rude window, but a
dozen, at least, of mirrors-a prevailing New Mex-
ican taste, and besides the divan, an American bed-
stead and bed. My men were rather crowded in a
small room, on the opposite side of the narrow
street, and to show my confidence, the horses were
delivered to the Mexican soldier, to be grazed. Im-
mediately a number of American merchants called
on me; chocolate and cake, and some whiskey was
handed round by the captain's wife.
Soon after, I went with an interpreter, for my of
ficial visit to the Governor, and delivered my creden-
tials. He seemed to think that the approach of the
army was rather sudden and rapid; and inquired
very particularly if its commander, Kearny, was a
general or colonel? (he had received his promotion.
30
THE CONQUEST OF
on the march.)
This was evidently to assist his
judgment as to the strength of his force; and to
follow the Napoleon maxim, to exaggerate the num-
bers of an army for its moral influence upon the
enemy, our government would do well to take the
hint; it being somewhat chary of that rank.
I was allowed to walk about the town; and
I observed particularly the amount and condition of
the ordnance.
Still sick, I had no appetite for dinner, and was
disturbed at siesta, by a favorite trumpeter, who
contrived to get admittance, and with much mystery
of manner, gave me his opinion that a plan or deter-
mination had been formed by the soldiers to massacre
or attack us in the night; I reassured him to the
extent, that sobriety and prudence should not be
lost sight of.
Señor Gonzales soon after raised his head from a
table and in solemn, not sober voice, cried out" Cuchil-
lo, Cuchara,-plata;" when, presto, appeared knives,
spoons, plates;--mutton chops, chicken and chilo,
tortillas, dulces, tea-whiskey. I could not eat the
supper, but drew near the table, to please the Se-
fiora. The Don seized two ribs, and tearing them
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
31
apart, sank his grizzly muzzle between.
Un tena-
dor,” I cried, mimicking the Don. The fork was
brought, but the Don did not take hints then;-La
Señora, offered me tea and cake on a silver salver.
The Don poured whiskey into a bowl with his tea;
and thinking I could put him to sleep, I helped him
to more; he soon tumbled on his pallet, and saluted
my ears with such horrid sounds that I fancied suffo-
cation and explosion were contending for the mastery
over his mountain of flesh.
At 10 P. M., General Armijo came with Don San-
tiago. It was settled that a "commissioner" should
return with me, and that we should set out at sun-
rise; the Governor would march next day "with
six thousand men." I promised to take chocolate
with him at that early hour.
Accordingly on the 13th, soon after the sun rose,
being all ready to mount, I paid my parting visit to
Governor Armijo, when chocolate, cake and bread,
-such as only Mexicans or Spaniards can make,
—were served on silver plate; it is an article of my
culinary creed, that only the Spanish, and their
cognate tribes can make chocolate!
I do not go so far in the matter of bread; but
*
32
THE CONQUEST OF
will state that notwithstanding there is not a bolting
cloth in the province, their bread and cake cannot
be excelled. But meanwhile the Governor is bow-
ing me out, with a suspiciously good-humored smile,
and deafening trumpets and drums seem beating to
arms. I mount and ride forth, with my escort in
compact order; and I pass that same guard-house,
and hear the same sullen howl of the sentinel, which
I still misunderstand; and rising in my stirrups I
turn and with a defiant gesture, call out, in good
English, "I'll call again in a week.”
General Armijo, with little or no military expe-
rience, distrustful of the loyalty of the population he
has habitually fleeced, and of their feeble ignorance
which has been much impressed by our long com-
mercial intercourse, is said to be in painful doubt
and irresolution; halting between loyalty to his
army commission, lately bestowed, and a desire to
escape the dangers of war upon terms of personal
advantage. Although perhaps much superior to
those about him, he is unequal to the trying circum-
stances of his present situation. Even the patriotic
spirit developed by his proclamation appears to
embarrass as well as surprise him. Undoubtedly he
X
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
33
¡
z
must go on to direct this current, but to some weak
and disgraceful conclusion. And Armijo's avarice,
fortified by ignorance, probably excites in him some
hope to handle the tariff dues of the large caravans
which follow our column of invasion—an incident of
war, strange to us, which must mystify him ;—and it
is a surprising fact that nearly all the merchants
would prefer to get their clearances here; for three-
fourths of their goods, in original packages, are des-
tined for Chihuahua and even beyond; the Santa
Fè custom house is a great favorite with them.
Thus an almost prohibitory tariff, evaded by bribery,
costs the people some thousand or two miles of
land transportation; and thus a bad, corrupt gov-
ernment finds its account in abuses.
I was accompanied on my return by the "Com-
missioner," Dr. Conolly, an Englishman.
The second afternoon we passed the scene of
a very recent murder and robbery; the Indians, as
usual, are excited by the prospect of war, and the
poor territory, never in the least protected by the
handful of regulars at the capital, is now harried by
these savages with unusual severity. My dragoons
were chiefly intended for protection against them;
2*
34
THE CONQUEST OF
:
they, and not the New Mexicans, seem to be con-
sidered as our enemies.
Next morning, hearing of the approach of the
army, I left my escort to rest their horses at the
spring where we had slept, rode on, and was soon
gladdened at sight of it, descending in gallant array
the long hill to Tecolote.
There a halt was made. The General and suit
were conducted by the alcalde to his house; and
there, through his interpreter, General Kearny
addressed him and the village notables; informing
them of the annexation and its great advantages to
them. He required the alcalde to take the oath of
allegiance, and then confirmed him in his office, and
pronounced them all released from their allegiance
to Mexico, and citizens of the United States.
The march was then continued-the business with
the alcalde having occupied only the space of time
necessary for watering the horses, and the camp was
established for the night at Bernal Spring.
What a
My diary adds no word of comment!
triumph of discipline !—I dismissed, as in a parenthe-
sis, this accompaniment of a water-call. The great
boon of American citizenship thus thrust, through art
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
35
interpreter, by the mailed hand, upon eighty thou-
sand mongrels who cannot read,-who are almost.
heathens,--the great mass reared in real slavery,
called peonism, but still imbued by nature with
enough patriotism to resent this outrage of being
forced to swear an alien allegiance, by an officer who
had just passed their frontier. This people who have
been taught more respect for a corporal than a
judge, must still have been astonished at this first
lesson in liberty.
The General's authority for this course has no
ampler record than may be found in the following
extracts from confidential instructions received from
the Secretary of War, and dated June 3d, 1846.
"Should you conquer and take possession of New
Mexico and Upper California, you will establish
temporary civil governments therein, abolishing all
arbitrary restrictions that may exist, so far as it may
be done with safety. In performing this duty it
would be wise and prudent to continue in their em-
ployment all such of the existing officers as are
known to be friendly to the United States, and will
take the oath of allegiance to them. . . . You may as-
sure the people of those provinces that it is the wish
36
THE CONQUEST OF
and design of the United States to provide for them-
a free government, with the least possible delay,
similar to that which exists in our Territories.
They will then be called on to exercise the rights
of freemen in electing their own representatives to
the territorial legislature.
It is foreseen that what
relates to the civil government will be a difficult and
unpleasant part of your duty, and much must neces-
sarily be left to your own discretion.
In your whole conduct you will act in such a
manner as best to conciliate the inhabitants, and ren-
der them friendly to the United States."
Mr. Marcy also states, "No proclamation for
circulation was ever furnished to General Kearny."
These instructions are the production of a politi-
cian and a lawyer; and it is necessary to add that
their consummate author was well acquainted with
Gen. Kearny.
The President, in communicating the above to
Congress, said, "If any excess of power has been
exercised, the departure has been the offspring of a
patriotic desire to give to the inhabitants the priv-
ileges and immunities so cherished by the people of
our own country. . . . Any such excess has resulted
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
37
in no practical injury, but can and will be early cor-
rected, in a manner to alienate as little as possible
the good feelings of the inhabitants of the con-
quered territory." (December 22, 1846.)
The next day, with only a short halt of the
column, a similar scene was enacted at San Miguel.
I remained in town with a squadron; there was a
great crowd; the General and his staff, the alcalde
and a priest and a few others, ascended a flat house
top overlooking the plaza; the General, through his
interpreter, delivered his address with the advantage
of its success at Tecolote, but, whether from the
priest's influence, the crowd, or his own peculiar
firmness, the alcalde positively refused to
the oath. The General then enlarged upon the
perfect freedom of religion under our government,
-mentioning that his chief of staff, then present,
was a Roman Catholic. All persuasion failed, and
at last the old man was forced to go through the
form and semblance of swearing allegiance.
take
The army's second camp beyond San Miguel
was on the hills of Pecos River, close to the ruins of
the ancient temple, and of the church. That day
General Armijo was posted at the defile, a very few
38
THE CONQUEST OF
miles beyond, with all his artillery, and a vast crowd
of enemies.
The army marched very early August 18th; I
commanded the advance guard, and held to the
main road, not receiving orders to take the obscure
route, known by the General, which turned the
position at the cañon. As I passed it, I concluded
that important information had been received in the
night. So it proved, and I found at the rocky gorge
only a rude breastwork of large trees felled across
it. It had evidently proved impossible to give co-
herence to the wretched mass of our opponents, who
were now for the first time assembled together.
They became panic-stricken at once on the ap-
proach of such an imposing array of horsemen of a
superior race, and, it appeared, over-estimated our
numbers, which the reports of ignorance and fear had
vastly magnified.
Want of water compelled the extraordinary
march of twenty-eight miles, and the arrival before
Santa Fè near sundown. The dragoons were there
alone, for a time, then came the regiment of volun-
teer cavalry; and the town had been summoned
before the arrival of the artillery. Then we marched
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
39
into the city, raised and saluted the national flag in
the plaza, and marched back to make camp on the
barren hill top. The baggage had not arrived;
there were no provisions, no grass or other forage,
no fuel; as a conquering army we fared badly.
Before it was dark, the inhabitants were driving don-
keys into camp loaded with fuel, and not long after
the train came up; very few rations did it contain.
I took charge of the city for the night, with a
guard of only fifty men; the General sleeping on the
floor in the palace. The taverns and saloons were
overrun by the hungry and thirsty volunteers, and
at last I had to drive them all out. After mid-
night I lay down in my cloak in the main hall, or
passage of the "palace," and there, with my saddle
for a pillow, slept soundly.
The "Army of the West" marched from Bent's
Fort with only rations calculated to last, by uninter-
rupted and most rapid marches, until it should arrive
at Santa Fè. Is this war? Tested by the rules of
the science, this expedition is anomalous, not to say
Quixotic. A colonel's command, called an army,
marches eight hundred miles beyond its base, its
communication liable to be cut off by the slightest
40
THE CONQUEST OF
effort of the enemy-mostly through a desert-the
whole distance almost totally destitute of resources,
to conquer a territory of 250,000 square miles; with-
out a military chest, the people of this territory are
declared citizens of the United States, and the in-
vaders are thus debarred the rights of war to seize
needful supplies; they arrive without food before the
capital-a city two hundred and forty years old, habit-
ually garrisoned by regular troops! I much doubt if
any officer of rank, but Stephen W. Kearny, would
have undertaken the enterprise; or, if induced to do
so, would have accomplished it successfully.
This is the art of war as practiced in America.
town.
The horses were sent the day after our occu-
pation of Santa Fè to a distant grazing camp, and
the greater part of the troops were quartered in the
The Indians have been coming in, and seem
pleased at the new order of things; temporary civil
officers have been sworn in. The authorities of
Taos have submitted, and the prefect taken the
oath of allegiance. Some of the civilized or "Pu-
eblo" Indians from that quarter have visited us.
These are a remarkable element in the New Mex-
ican population. They are of the full blood, live in
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
41
villages of houses of many stories, without doors-
entered each story from its top, which is reached by
a movable ladder: their diligently cultivated grounds
they hold in fee; they speak the Spanish, besides
an original language; comparatively moral, they
profess the Roman Catholic religion, slightly modi-
fied by some cherished heathen customs and cere-
monies, but are reputed far more moral christians
than the New Mexicans proper, that is, of mixed
blood; of these, the priests being preëminent
scoundrels, their flocks are generally earnest in an
imitation, where their inferior means and abilities do
not admit of a possible success.
The market is well supplied; mutton of true
mountain flavor, red peppers, onions, apples, apri-
cots, etc. Coffee is fifty, and sugar forty cents a
pound. Fandangos of the lowest class are now a
great success.
Four of us have taken possession, temporarily,
of the large parlor at my old quarters with the
Mayor de Plaza;" the captain has very quietly
临
​subsided into a civic character-that of vendor of
El Paso wine and aguadiente, or brandy. All but
some of our elderly officers take to a smattering of
42
THE CONQUEST OF
the Spanish, perhaps the easiest of languages to
learn. This may account in part for its prevalence,
to a convenient extent at least, even among the wild
Indians within the sphere of Spanish conquest.
First our men learned to ask, leche de vaca, leche de
cabra? of the milk boys: goat's milk is. far the more
common, but is not popular with us.
A slave of the house, a captive when young from
the Utah tribe, makes down every night our pallet.
beds. Major-is particular; and his persistence in
minute directions to the girl, in very voluble English,
of which she comprehends not one word, is so ludi-
crous, that our respectful attempts to smother our
mirth usually result in a grand explosion. The
major then, quite red in the face, laughs in a minor
key.
Armi o on his retreat, dispersed the militia, and
took with him the few regular troops, save some de-
serters. He had to abandon his artillery; and
it has been all found and brought to the city:
there are nine pieces; one is marked, "Barcelona,
1778."
A small fort is to be immediately commenced,
on a hill which commands the town.
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
43
?
The great square or plaza, level, unpaved and
rather sandy, has on each side a zequia, or canal,
with rows of small cottonwood trees; this has
a very pleasing effect in a hot, dry, and barren
country. It is farther adorned with very comfort-
able porticoes,—portales,—on three sides, including
the palace; these are extensions of the flat roofs to
the edge of the side-walk, where they are supported
by round pillars, which are whitewashed; they serve
as the only shelter for the market; and are lined
with shops, nearly all kept by Americans. One or
two streets are similarly improved, but in general
they are narrow and present to the passenger only a
plain and nearly continuous wall; each extensive
house having only a large strong folding door, and
one or two windows; these have invariably a pro-
jecting frame and turned wooden bars; a sash sel-
dom glazed-strong shutters opening inwards.
On our first Sunday the bells invited us to wor-
ship. I went to the parochial church: although
built of adobes, it is sufficiently lofty, and has two
steeples, or towers, in which hang three or four
bells. With the usual wax images, it is adorned
with numerous paintings-one or two of some
44
THE CONQUEST OF
merit. There was some music, of violin and tri-
angle, and no spoken service. The streets and
shops were thronged, and nothing indicated there
that it was the Lord's day.
The General has issued a proclamation denoun-
cing the penalties of treason against any found in
hostility, in the Territory of New Mexico. He has
directed the laws and decrees here found existing to
be translated by Captain Waldo, Missouri Volun-
teers, with a view to their revision.*
After the full submission of the territory, and the
* The patient reader of these dry details and descriptions, which
largely share the dullness of almost all realities, who looks out hope-
fully for some scintillations of humor as a merited relief, will sym-
pathise with me in the loss of Don Santiago; but in bidding him.
farewell, I will incur the guilt of an anachronism, by giving you
here a characteristic trait or two, in exigencies which soon befell
him, as they will do, the most common and prosaic mortals. He
got authority, as soon as we arrived, to push on with his friend and
faithful imitator, Gonzales, to Chihuahua, he being in fact a hab-
itant of that state (perhaps, indeed he was sent).
There arrived, Gonzales was soon sent to calaboose, for rehearsing
in his cups, the Don's mountain speech, as was predicted; but
Magoffin too, was incarcerated, as a spy: his life was really long in
danger; but I am happy to record that he managed to dissolve all
charges, prosecutions and enmities in three thousand three hundred
and ninety two bottles of champagne wine; (by a close computation,)
and he lived to be remunerated by our government, as I particularly
know. But the secretary said to him, mildly, “Mr. M. ten thousand
dollars is a very large item for wine.' "Yes," responded the Don
with gravity, "but Mr. Secretary, champagne at $37.50 a basket
counts up very fast." Try it yourself!
11
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
45
appointment of a temporary government, it becomes
Gen. Kearny's duty to march for California, with
such available force as he may judge requisite, to
repeat the same rather dramatic exploits. New
Mexico has furnished the scene of a good rehearsal
at the least.
With this view the additional regiment and bat-
talion were ordered; and these reënforcements, are
supposed to be now well on their march.
Capt. A. R. Johnston, A. D. C. has been espe-
cially charged with the important subject of routes to
California; two are represented as probably practi-
cable; the more northern by the "old Spanish
trail," which appears on some maps--and was sug-
gested by the Secretary of War; Green River, and a
sand desert of ninety miles are considered its great
obstacles; and unless the reënforcements arrive soon,
difficulty from snow is also apprehended. The
second route by the river Gila is perhaps less known,
but is pronounced to be too broken and mountainous
for wagons, but to have more grass.
August 28th.-The General has decided to send
a second column by the southern route; leaving the
Rio Grande about one hundred and fifty miles be-
46
THE CONQUEST OF
low, and thence by the Rio Gila; this is certainly
impracticable for wagons. The probability that the
Gila will become our national boundary, and reports
of Aztec ruins, give great interest to this expedition.
Captain Cooke has been selected to command it.
The fact that the Spaniards, in their northern
explorations, found here an isolated race quite ad-
vanced in civilization, compared to some tribes to
its south, might prove an interesting study; that it
is a fact, there is still existing proof enough, besides
the name, New Mexico; it is kindred to the ques-
tion of Aztec civilization.
Was that an original civilization? A tradition
is reported by their conquerors that points to an
European origin. It is well known that our conti-
nent was discovered and repeatedly visited about
A.D. 1000 by Norsemen; c'est le premier pas qui coute;
what more probable than that such adventurers.
should be attracted, step by step, toward a more
genial, and to them a stranger clime!-should have
coasted as far as Mexico,-beyond their power of re-
turn;--to communicate to an ingenuous race, their
own moderate stock of knowledge and civilized arts;
and especially that remarkably accurate astronom-
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
47
ical knowledge of time, which may well be ascribed
to navigators. Gradually absorbed, in five hundred
years, should we not look for just the traces which
were found, viz., an improved physical race ;--sensi-
ble progress in art and social science;-and a tra-
dition.
General Kearny has reported to the Secretary of
War, that he has written to General Wool, directed
to Chihuahua, that his expected reënforcements
promise to be more than needed, in which case he
will order a regiment South to report to him; and
should General Wool not need them, he can order
them on to General Taylor.
The Navajos, the Spanish spelling of their name,
which is pronounced Navaho, are a numerous, and
warlike tribe who dwell in fastnesses of the moun-
tains westward of the Del Norte; they have ad-
vanced few of the usual first steps of civilization, and
therefore very remarkably as manufacturers; for
they make ponchôs, a blanket and blanket shawl,
with a slit in the middle for the insertion of the head.
Besides being waterproof, they are handsome,
some of them approaching the India shawl in beauty
and costliness. In fact the Navajos are richer than
48
THE CONQUEST OF
the mass of the people, whose flocks and herdsmen
they harry; they have repressed their progress and
lived on their spoil; the inhabitants have even been
restrained by the government from making war
upon them, except by special permission; and it is
charged that Armijo used them as an effectual check
to any resistance to his arbitrary oppressions.
The influence of the Spanish protection of this
and the neighboring provinces against unconquered
Indian tribes, began to cease about the year 1832;
and from that date they have decayed; it is esti-
mated that the number of sheep is eighty per cent
less than then. I am assured that one man has
lost 250,000! The people are almost confined to
villages.
Except in narrow valleys and narrow strips,
mostly wooded, reached by mountain showers, the
whole province, alluvion as well as table-land, is so
arid as to seem uninhabitable. There is some rain,
but an elevation of from four thousand to seven
thousand feet, and the absence of forests and even
groves, make it almost nugatory. Irrigation is
necessary in the river lands, and is effectual, where
practicable, on the hills.
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
(49
}
There are, indeed, the mile or two wide river
bottoms of the Rio Abajo, (lower river,) of only four
to five thousand feet elevation, which although very
sandy, are quite productive, and of charming climate;
but the want of fuel makes even that best district un-
attractive. Thus any considerable immigration can-
not be expected.
It should not be omitted that the precious met-
als have been long known to be very diffusely
found here; but no one seems ever to have made
a fortune in the mines. A pains-taking culture by
irrigation, and sheep pastures, are the main supports
of a sparse population in New Mexico.
They make sugar, from the corn-stalk; butter—
rather a test of civilization--scarcely any; no oats
or rye are produced, few potatoes; onions, very fine,
and chile Colorado, are the chief vegetables; melons
are plenty.
Yesterday the 27th, the General, or Governor,
gave a ball to all the officers, and to citizens gener-
ally in the government house; it was a political,
or conciliatory affair, and we put the best face on it.
The women are comely,—remarkable for smallness
of hands and feet: as usual in such states of society,
3
50
THE CONQUEST OF
they seem superior to the man; but nowhere else is
chastity less valued or expected.
There was an attempt at cotilions; but the natives
are very Germans for waltzing--and they possess mu-
sical ears as well. Their favorite, called appropriately
the cuna (cradle) is peculiar; it is a waltz; but the
couple stand face to face; the gentleman encircles his
partner's waist with both arms; the lady's similarly
disposed, complete the sides of the cradle which is not
bottomless, for both parties lean well back as they
swing around. There were men present in colored
cotton trowsers secured by leathern belts, and jack-
ets, but they danced well. The American merchants
were of course, very genteelly represented; there
were twenty or thirty of them. The supper was
good, particularly in cake. The fiddlers accompanied
their music at times by verses, sung in a high nasal
key. I was surprised, but amused to hear one of our
captains join in this; and he could waltz them all
blind;--but we got him from the navy.
The ball went off harmoniously, and quite pleas-
antly, considering the extravagant variety in its make
up. But we did not feel particular-out here.
August 31st.-A report is believed that a Colonel
1
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
51
Ugarte is entering the southern extremity of the ter-
ritory with some five hundred regulars, to meet and
re-inforce General Armijo; this must hasten the
march south, which has been announced.
Four hundred wagons of supplies have been re-
ported on the way out-as also Colonel Price's
regiment.
The
The greatest expense of this invasion, possibly,
will be found in the matter of transportation.
territory seems quite unequal to feed its seventeen
hundred conquerors; they have received for weeks
but nine ounces of ground wheat per day, and no
sugar or coffee! The men must make out a living
from other resources;-but they receive no pay, and
scurvy is making its appearance.
I marched from Santa Fè yesterday with half of
my dragoons, afoot, twenty-six miles;-seeking to
establish a grazing camp on the Galisteo. After
leaving the zequias, which invade for several miles
the gravelly table land, we were without water for
near twenty, and the camp is a mile from grass. The
ox teams with baggage lately arrived from Missouri,
set out half a day in advance, but did not come up,
and so we bivouacked; after a hot day, the night
52
THE CONQUEST OF
It is a
being rather frosty, I caught a slight cold.
healthy country, but catarrhs and pleurisy are not
uncommon.
September 1st.-Last night an officer came for dra-
goons to man a battery of four howitzers, and with
an order to hold myself ready-until farther orders-
to march south at an hour's notice; the General
having received some confirmation of the junction
of Armijo and Ugarte; we are also to move over to
the main southern road to-morrow.
September 2d.-We marched, accordingly, eighteen
miles, leaving the nearly dry Galisteo for the table
land. In a vale at noon, finding some grass, although
there was no water, I stopped an hour to graze;
this on Dugald Dalgetty's principle, which in this
country must be applied to horses and mules. Ap-
proaching the Rio Grande we came to the broken
descent of a small stream, and a rancho; a few cot-
tonwoods or poplars added much attraction to its
appearance,—so rare is this only "ornamental'
tree; and we saw the dust of the mile long column
of the General's march toward the south.
>
The little valley of this farm-house looked quite
green; but, as usual, the grass had been closely
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
53
cropped; one of the merchants bound for Chihuahua
—they are all still involuntary Micawbers--having
here established his caravan; his mules contended
with the farmer's sheep, asses and goats for a sub-
sistence.
And so we camped a mile further, on the dusty
upland where we found scant buffalo grass and that
called grama.
the
Professor Torrey seems to have pronounced
buffalo grass
"polygamous by abortion ;"
phrase, if possible to be understood, referring to
his belief that its flower is not fertile. But I have
gathered much of its fruit-like large grains of oats
truncated. But I have also seen, with the pregnant.
if, that I could believe my eyes, the buffalo and the
grama, so very different in most respects, growing
from the same root! if that constitutes vegetable po-
lygamy; but they are the very same in being frost-
proof and good substantial food for the granivora.
The baggage wagons having gone astray, we
had until after dark a prospect of being supperless
and shelterless, even without fires; for it is by many
expedients that we manage to have fuel, even for
cooking.
}
54
THE CONQUEST OF
A message from the General sets at rest, as un-
founded, the prospect of hostilities further south.
Colonel Ugarte did march over the border; and if
Armijo had proved a good soldier, our conquest
might well have furnished better elements for an
epic. We are commanded to devote ourselves to
preparing the horses for the California expedition.
September 4th.-Yesterday the General left his
column and baggage and turned aside, escorted by a
squadron of dragoons, to visit the Pueblo Indian
town of Santo Domingo, having been invited to do
so, several days ago. Not having been present, I
will give a picturesque description of the visit, by a
staff officer, the more interesting as concerning this
tribe without the pale of citizenship, but more moral,
and superior in some other respects to the mass of
the people; their extraordinary abstinence from
mixture of blood reminds one of the Jews.
He writes: "From height to height, as we
advanced, we saw horsemen disappearing at full
speed. As we arrived abreast of the town, we
were shown, by the guard, posted for the pur-
pose, the road to Santo Domingo.
We had
* *
not proceeded far, before we met ten or fifteen
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
55
sachemic looking old Indians, well mounted, two
of them carrying gold-headed canes with tassels, the
emblems of office in New Mexico.
Salutations over, we jogged along, and in the
course of conversation, the alcalde, a grave and ma-
jestic old Indian, said, as if casually, "We shall
meet some Indians presently, mounted and dressed
for war, but they are the young men of my town,
friends, come to receive you, and I wish you to cau-
tion your men not to fire upon them when they ride
towards them."
When within a few miles of the town, we saw a
cloud of dust rapidly advancing, and soon the air
was rent with a terrible yell, resembling the Florida
war-whoop. The first object that caught my eye
through the column of dust, was a fierce pair of
buffalo horns, overlapped with long shaggy hair.
As they approached, the sturdy form of a naked
Indian revealed itself beneath the horns, with shield
and lance, dashing at full speed, on a white horse,
which, like his body, was painted all the colors of the
rainbow; and then, one by one his followers came
on, painted to the eyes, their own heads and their
horses, covered with all the strange equipments that
56
THE CONQUEST OF
the brute creation could afford in the way of horns,
skulls, feathers, tails and claws.
As they passed us, one rank on each side, they
fired a volley under our horses' bellies from the right
and from the left. Our well-trained dragoons sat
motionless on their horses, which went along with-
out pricking an ear or showing any sign of excite-
ment.
Arrived in the rear, the Indians circled round,
dropped into a walk on our flanks until their horses
recovered breath, when off they went at full speed
passing to our front, and when there, the opposite.
files met, and each man selected his adversary and
kept up a running fight, with muskets, lances, and
bows and arrows. Sometimes a fellow would stoop
almost to the earth to shoot under his horse's belly,
at full speed, or to shield himself from an impending
blow. So they continued to pass and repass all the
way to the steep cliff which overhangs the town.
There they filed on each side of the road, which
descends through a deep cañon, and halted on the
peaks of the cliffs. Their motionless forms projected
against the clear blue sky above, formed studies for
an artist. In the cañon we were joined by the
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
57
priest, a fat old white man. We were escorted first.
to the padre's, of course; for here, as everywhere,
these men are the most intelligent, and the best to
do in the world, and when the good people wish to
put their best foot foremost, the padre's wines, beds,
and couches have to suffer. The entrance to the
portal was lined with the women of the village, all
dressed alike, and ranged in treble files; they looked
fat and stupid.
We were shown into his reverence's parlor, tapes-
tried with curtains stamped with the likenesses of all
the Presidents of the United States up to this time.
The cushions were of spotless damask, and the
couch covered with a white Navajo blanket, worked
in richly colored flowers.
The air was redolent with the perfume of grapes.
and melons, and every crack of door and windows.
glistening with the bright eyes and arms of the
women of the capilla. The old priest was busy
talking in the corner, and little did he know the
game of sighs and signs carried on between the
young fellows and the fair inmates of the house.
We had our gayest array of young men out to-day,
and the women seemed to me to drop their usual
*
58
THE CONQUEST OF
subdued look and timid wave of the eye-lash for
good hearty twinkles and signs of unaffected and
cordial welcome-signs supplying the place of con-
versation, as neither party could speak the language.
of the other. This little exchange of the artillery of
eyes was amusing enough, but I was very glad to
see the padre move towards the table, and remove
the pure white napkin from the grapes, melons and
wine. We were as thirsty as heat and dust could
make us, and we relished the wine highly, whatever
its quality. The sponge cake was irreproachable,
and would have done honor to our best northern
house-keepers. Indeed, wherever we have feasted,
the sponge cake has been in profusion, and of the
best kind. After the repast, the General went for-
ward on the portal and delivered a speech to the
assembled people of the town, which was first inter-
preted into Spanish, and then into Pueblo.
It is impossible to arrive at the precise population
of the town, but I should judge it to be about six
hundred, and the quantity of ground under tillage
for their support about five hundred acres. Six
miles lower they passed San Felippe, "suggesting
pictures we see of castles on the Rhine."
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
59
We marched yesterday toward Santa Fè in
search of grass; winding among the hills we passed
several spring branches; making inquiries at the
houses, the people were evidently averse to our stop-
ping, regarding us perhaps, in the light of a swarm
of locusts; and so, there was generally good grass
several miles further on; they object to selling the
green corn. Camp at last was established twelve.
miles from the city, in a long strip of green meadow,
clipped indeed, but making a pleasant camp. A
sod for the floor of a tent is here a luxury.
September 5th.—Making a virtue of necessity, or
really having a surplus, the small farmers begin to
sell their patches of corn; it is cut at the root,
brought in wagons to camp, and fed at night to
horses, ear, blade and stalk; and there is not a par-
ticle of litter in the morning. The poor horses are
taken about nine o'clock, several miles, to graze on
the scant grass of the upland, where there is no
water, and are brought in at three o'clock. It is
not a pleasant duty to herd them on a bare prairie
six or seven hours, through the heat of the day;
there was a little rain this afternoon.
Near us is a house prettily situated on a point
60
THE CONQUEST OF
of hill overlooking corn fields; but its chief beauty
is a small grove of cottonwoods; the little fields
fill the irregular valleys, and are without fences; even
here they are irrigated; the soil, of hill or table
land and valley is nearly the same; the high ground
near Santa Fè is in cultivation.
The sheep here are very small, the wool quite
coarse; but the flesh is of excellent flavor. The
wool, without a market, is used for mattresses, which
are very well made and comfortable, and for carpets.
and packing blankets.
To the philosophic observer of the infinitely wise
adaptations throughout Nature, it is not surprising
that in those portions of our earth rendered barren.
by elevation, want of rain and excessive evapora-
tion, there is always found a configuration which
makes irrigation easy and suggests it.
I have seen,
in Utah, an irrigating ditch, on upland, straight for
miles! I have pronounced ground of gravel and
sand, producing nothing but a few stunted weeds of
one species, as utterly worthless, and afterward be-
held it green with almost tropical profusion,-its
latent germs vivified by water.
The few rich men live in the Rio Abajo; their
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
61
extensive plastered and whitewashed residences,
built around large courts, are quite imposing; and
each contains, the key of their wealth, a store of ne-
cessaries for their dependent laborers. This is the
system of peonage; at their own prices they manage
to keep the poor peons always in debt, and this le-
gally binds them and their families to endless service
and dependence; and they can be cast off, without
any provision in their old age. They have been in-
formed that they shall soon have a voice in their
own government. Doubtless this flagrant servitude
will be gradually broken up; but when shall such
people be capable of self-government! There will
be a territorial government for thirty years*—and
the language will not change faster than the color of
the citizens.
All the advantages seem to be with the conquer-
ed. What for us? except the convenience of a
rounded boundary; it is not the route to California;
these routes will be above or below.* The procla-
mation of Governor Kearny " announces his inten-
tion to hold the Department with its original bound-
aries [on both sides of the Del Norte] as a part of
*These words were written Sept. 5th, 1846.
62
THE CONQUEST OF
the United States, and under the name of the Ter-
ritory of New Mexico."
This overleaps the first announcement which
seemed the assertion of the old Texan claim.
The Mormon Battalion is now not expected be-
fore October, that will be too late for the northern
route to California; and the last information seems
to make that by the Gila River impracticable for
want of grass, if at all practicable for wagons. And
so there would remain only a long route through So-
nora. Evidence is all doubtful or false; false wil-
fully, or only from lack of judgment as to the needs of
a large force compared to that of a few adventurers.
September 7th.-I visited Santa Fè yesterday; a
tall, handsome flagstaff has just been erected in the
plaza, conveying perhaps some idea of permanency
to the ignorant people; while the fort on the hill
begins to show itself to the town. Great complaint,
however, is made that the volunteers will scarcely
work; daily labor was not embraced in their con-
ceptions of war; it goes some way to prove that
democracy and discipline-of the military sort-are
not entirely congenial. The fort is named Marcy,
after the eminent statesman.
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
63
I visited to-day the house near camp,—of ex-
ceptional character and surroundings; a pleasant
portal in front of a fine room, looks upon a small
grove of well grown cottonwood trees; these deriv-
ing their verdure, or rather their existence, from a
fast flowing spring in their midst. From the house.
we also see the rather narrow winding valley, highly
cultivated, walled in by little rock precipices; there
is, too, an ancient round tower of two floors, the
upper story of stone; it is loop-holed, and a stone
wall crossing some low hills is very remarkable. The
happy proprietor is a rather cultivated man; and his
Spanish was pleasant to hear.
The country generally, off the river, is not appro-
priated in severalty. Colonel Doniphan, who is a
lawyer of high repute, is codifying and revising the
laws; he tells me of this, and many peculiar difficul-
ties; the civil law as adopted by Spain is their basis;
its adaptations are rather from many departmental
decrees, than National legislation; and so low has
been the state of administration of justice in this
province, that suits of any importance have been re-
moved seven or eight hundred miles to Chihuahua.
Our fuel is brought nine miles, and the nights
64
THE CONQUEST OF
are very cold.
This pure atmosphere has often a
peculiar haze or blueness which is unaccounted for;
the nearest mountains look dark blue, and when
covered by cedars and pines, almost black.
September 11th.--I slept last night under a thick
blanket and buffalo robe.
The Pueblos bring in for sale melons, onions,
corn, sugar and molasses, bread, and above all, deli-
cious grapes; they are as large as musket balls, the
bunches of about a pound weight; in no other part
of the world, as I think, are there grapes so palat-
able. The cultivation, and I am told it is the
same in California, is peculiar; pruning is so ex-
treme that the growth ceases to be a vine, and be-
comes a single stem four or five feet high, which sup-
ports the short branches and fruit: thus it is a bush.
The wine they make here is not highly praised.
The General passed up this afternoon; the
national flag is to be hoisted on the new staff, first
in his presence, under a national salute.
Some of the staff tell us that their march was a
gala procession, extending only ninety miles to San
Tomè. They arrived there on their saint's day; long
tallow candles were put into the hands of the officers
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
65
to carry in procession, following his waxen effigy;
and this was considerably protracted, by repeated
addresses to his saintship. At night there were
fireworks, rockets from doors and windows of the
church, bonfires on the adobe turrets, etc. The vil-
lage was crowded. Families journeyed in their prim-
itive wagons, rough boxes on solid wooden wheels.
Women came on donkeys and mules, on which
last they invariably ride in front of men, who nev-
ertheless hold the reins. There are few horses in the
country.
The officers partook of a collation at the padre s.
The ladies never made their appearance at the
houses at which the general and officers were enter-
tained; one of them at an accidental interview with
an officer proved exceedingly inquisitive as to our
country; when questioned as to Armijo, she abused
him, and pointing to his shoulder straps, exclaimed,
"I don't know how any man wearing these things
could run away as he did; he had a good army to
back him, and could have driven you all back."
The Navajos are continually making raids on
these poor people; they seem to have had the pol-
icy to avoid utterly ruining them, and to leave them
66
THE CONQUEST OF
the means of increase for the perpetual enforcement
of contributions. They have made irruptions within
two or three miles of our troops. Protection has
been promised, and even compensation for losses
since our arrival.
September 22d.-Gen. Kearny approved and de-
creed an "organic law for the territory of New Mexi-
co, in the United States of America;" it grants the
electoral franchise to "all free male citizens of the
territory;" and "the first election of a delegate to
the Congress of the United States, and for members
of the general assembly shall be on the first Monday
in August, A. D. 1847." It comprises the usual “Bill
of Rights," also "Laws for the government of the
territory," including all details of administration, in
the judicial, and every other department ;-revenue,
registry of lands, costs, fees, fines, etc., etc.
The same day, "being duly authorized by the
President," etc., he appointed Charles Bent to be
Governor; also a secretary, marshal, U. S. district
attorney, (Francis P. Blair); a treasurer, auditor,
and three judges of the superior court.
September 23d.--There is no mail to the States,
and no established communication; but Col. Price's
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
67
regiment is known to be well advanced on his
march; and Colonel Doniphan's regiment is to-day
ordered, when relieved by Price's, to march to Chi-
huahua. Captain Hudson of Doniphan's, has been
ordered to organize a troop of one hundred men,
who will volunteer from that regiment, to be
mounted on mules to accompany the Mormon bat-
talion to California.
(Capt. H. failed to raise the troop; the result
of a want of specie, and other difficulty in procuring
their mount.)
Our horses have become poorer, notwithstand-
ing all efforts to recruit them by all means avail-
able.
The days are still hot; we were told on Our ar-
rival, August 18, that the rainy season had begun.
about a week before, and that it lasted two or three
weeks; but a gentle sprinkle of the mountain show-
ers reaches us now, nearly every day.
This country is nearly destitute of game. Prairie-
dog villages are common, and there is one actually
joining my camp; the dogs are not molested, and are.
very tame. I suppose them to be the most numerous
mammals of North America; we find their " towns "
68
THE CONQUEST OF
spread all over the high and dry regions; they live
on the roots and blades of the grama grasses; and
seem to require no water.
The southern promontory of the Rocky Moun-
tains, which overlooks Santa Fè, is now white with
snow.
September 25th.-To-morrow is now set for the
beginning of our venturesome expedition through
the unknown wilderness of mountains and dry plains
to the Pacific Ocean; we have had a boisterous,
rainy night, our first.
Nothing is heard of the war in Mexico; our posi-
tion here has been unfortunate, irksome, disheart-
ening-so far from the "sabre clash" of the sunny
South! Truly there is a "Fortune of War;" and
the pedestal of the goddess is Opportunity! That
a soldier should pass through a war without distinc-
tion I used to think-and does not the world?-is to
be set down to his fault or want of merit. But how
near were some of us to being excluded from all
action, and in spite of our vehement applications;
and how much resignation to the consciousness of
mere duty performed, is the only support of our
obscure lot, in this field of war's drudgery!
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
69
"The world"-which means that average mass
of low grade in intelligence and information, and
absorbed, following the law of their natures, in the
small but important interests of self,—is only reached
by the most brilliant and striking actions, or by long
continued great prominence of action. Working in
this obscurity, our most faithful, venturous, long-con-
tinued labors, amid all privations and exposures,
fruitful though they prove to be in the annexation
of imperial extents of territory, conquering Nature
itself in its most naked and forbidding shapes, shall
be ignorantly accepted-placed in the appendix, as it
were, of history. Momentary actions, of excitement
so exhilarating as to exclude the thought of danger,
shall receive the shouts of crowds, the applause of
the nation; and history shall eloquently record the
success of deeds resulting from some obscure inspi-
ration, some subordinate act. But the working out
shall be done by the heroic rank and file, of whom
so many shall moulder in unknown trenches, named
only in company records.
To-morrow, three hundred wilderness-worn dra-
goons, in shabby and patched clothing, who have
long been on short allowance of food, set forth to
70
THE CONQUEST OF
conquer or "annex" a Pacific empire; to take a
leap in the dark of a thousand miles of wild plains
and mountains, only known in vague reports as
unwatered, and with several deserts of two and
three marches where a camel might starve if not
perish of thirst.
Our success—we never doubt it! and the very
desperation of any alternative must ensure it—
shall give us for boundary, that world line of a
mighty ocean's coast, looking across to the cradle
land of humanity; and shall girdle the earth with
civilization. Then, will one name be added to the
roll of fame? A single dash on a blazing battery
shall win more applause, and more reward.
We are haunted by the ghostly shapes of our
starving horses. To this camp where they were
tied up on bare sand-escaping their guards who
are to drive them to Missouri,-passing by fenceless.
corn-fields; here, as if to make dumb reproach for
ingratitude-to forbid this severance of old asso-
ciation, they come threading their way by day and
by night through the tents; their gaunt shapes
upbraid us, their sunken eyes make pathetic appeal.
Some of them, to my knowledge, have served thir-
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
71
teen years; would it not be a consolation to inform
them that their half-breed successors are chosen for
a forlorn hope! But they are cast adrift as useless.
servants, to take a desperate journey of eight hundred
miles, with grass for food, and much of that destroyed
by frost. Farewell forever, old friends!
September 26th.-At 7.30 this morning began
our first march; after the hot and dreary twenty-one.
miles of table land, we descended into the bottom.
land of El Rio Grande del Norte; here wholly ours,
and its lower course illustrated by our arms, this
name can no more swell pleasantly on the tongue
of the Mexican.
The camp is on a zequia; and so far from its
source, that its bottom is above the camp; and close
beyond is a lower one; the fields of maize are
near. This mile wide savanna, not too sandy to be
very green, I have no doubt was charming to the
eyes of our mules,-fasting and thirsting, through a
long day of toil; but for them, it is very like seat-
ing a famishing man to the dessert of a vanished
dinner. Well in truth the comparison is not far-
fetched-for our sole fuel is some cedar boughs we
gathered while passing the Galisteo, and the Pu-
72
THE CONQUEST OF
eblos from San Domingo have extemporized a very
fair market in our camp. They bring only fruit, mel-
ons, peaches, and the delightful grapes. I should not
omit the onions, for they are truly the finest in the
world, and can be eaten raw.
September 27th.-A day of small mishaps, begin-
ning with a provoking but most lively mule adven-
ture. When the regiment was ready to march, a loose
inule of my troop, dragging a long rope, had been
pursued for an hour by several men; the march
began, leaving me to send out my whole company
to catch the perverse and most active beast; and it
was actually another hour, the whole of them gal-
loping around, assisted by numbers of Indians on
foot, before we succeeded. Fourteen Indians were
“in at the death;" one remarkable fellow must have
run about six miles.
Then I marched, and in a mile or two found my
wagon with the pole broken short off, in passing one
of the zequias with the usual troublesome steep
banks; if it had been irreparable, it is hard to say
what could have been done, with nothing but cot-
tonwoods within a day's ride.
:
The bottom now expands, with pleasant groves
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
73
in view; it looks more like a habitable country. We
passed several pueblos, and then Bernalillo, the
prettiest village of the Territory. Its view, as we
approached, was refreshing; green meadows, good
square houses, and a church, cottonwoods, vine-
yards, orchards-these jealously walled in; and there
were numbers of small fat horses grazing. The people
seemed of superior class,-handsomer and cleaner.
But parts of this bottom had sand hillocks, with
their peculiar arid growths.
At another village I overtook the regiment, and
brought it on, leaving the general and some others
dining at an inmense house owned by young Perea.
I made camp seventeen miles from our last, near a
village; the grass poor and thin, and no fuel. We
have to make the best of weeds and chance frag-
ments. The wagons came up at sunset, some of the
mules already breaking down, from the heavy draught
of sandy roads.
There are myriads of wild fowl-geese, brant,
sand-cranes; the people seem never even to molest
them!
For two days, continuing the march, great
efforts have been made to exchange mules, evidently
74
THE CONQUEST OF
The
unfit for the expedition, for better, and also to
make purchases. Approaching Albuquerque, I rode
for miles as through a straggling village. At one of
the Armijos I partook, with the General, of a colla-
tion of grapes, cakes, and syrup lemonade.
general quizzed a padre of the company, about the
relations of the Mexican church with Rome; the
padre contended that the suspended relations were
the consequence solely of the revolution. I also
dined there; the table service presented a mixture
of silver gilt with tin and earthenware: we see also
silver forks with the commonest bone-handled
knives. A son of fifteen lately returned from college
at St. Louis, Missouri, remarked he was going to
Mexico to finish his education!
At Albuquerque we forded the river, which is
about two feet deep and twenty-five yards wide; it
is low, but does not rise more than two feet. This is
several hundred miles from the sources of the river;
but into the account of its swift flowing waters, several
zequias should be taken, and these are eight to ten
feet wide, and about two feet deep. We marched
about seven miles down the river, through a sandy
plain, without fuel, scarcely inhabited or cultivated,
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
75
}
and camped at a zequia. We are opposite, it seems,
a pass of the Navajos; and but a few days ago they
made an irruption, killed several persons, and drove
off about two thousand sheep.
The quarter-master has hired several wagons
and teams to go a few marches, at eight dollars a
day; only five dollars were demanded, if protected,
in returning, against the Indians.
September 30th.—We pass to-day immense corn-
fields; the fruitfulness of the sandy soil is attributed
to a gypsum ingredient; the common houses have
window lights of its laminated crystals.
We pass
several handsome villages;-Padillas, Isletta. This
last is a Pueblo, and is on a swell of the bottom,
surrounded by green meadows, and sand hillocks.
On the river we saw large groves ;*—the vineyards
are, as usual, protected by high adobe walls. I ob-
served there a singular fashion of the women; the
short skirts revealed the legs bandaged to an evidently
unnatural size. But they were not destitute of beauty.
*If it were possible for the reader to put himself in full sympa-
thy with any participator in the marches and explorations of this
volume, he would not wonder at an unfailing and glad mention of
any green thing,-especially those masterpieces of the vegetable king-
dom, to wit, trees. Pleasing and strange to his eyes!-strong reminders
of home! and, so suggestive of the infinite comfort of fuel!
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THE CONQUEST OF
After a black frost last night, the heat to-day was
severe; we marched but thirteen miles; but were in
all respects in miserable plight for such an expedi-
tion. We are endeavoring, as we go, to complete
our outfit in one important particular,-that of mules.
October 1st.--Still warm weather and distress-
ing dust. All the houses and villages we are now
passing are adorned by cottonwood; but all the
same, we are much straitened for fuel; I paid
twenty-five cents for a small stick. The Quarter-
master crossed over to Valencia this morning seek-
ing mules; he should succeed there, for it is the
residence of several nabobs; but it is disaffection ast
much as want of specie which prevents our supply;
we should have dealt with a higher hand; cam-
paigns cannot wait for the "inheritance" of meek-
ness. At Valencia resides a Widow C., whose
husband was murdered by Americans a few years
ago; they went out, several hundred miles from
Independence, Mo., to rob him, knowing he had
with him a large sum; they murdered him in cold
blood; and it is satisfactory to add, that they were
hanged for it, at Saint Louis. The widow is fair
and firm; for, on dit, she refuses to wed her com-
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
77
panion, preferring to remain mistress of her very con-
siderable wealth. Her house is said to be furnished
splendidly.
October 2d.-Between the very decided descent
of the valley, and our progress south, the days are
hot. This morning we passed unusually thick
settlements, and the large village of Savinal, with its
handsome church, and unusually picturesque sur-
roundings. Below there are very few houses; and
after noon, we passed a vast baked plain, whitened
by salts, with a burning sun overhead; our progress
to-day was sixteen miles, and our camp is opposite
La Joya de Ciboletta, the "jewel of a little bull,"
or "little buffalo;" I consider it an outlandish name;
there must be a little tale to it, if one could only
get hold of it; but perhaps, after all, it should be
spelled Cebolletta; the little onion!
This camp has more variegated surroundings than
any we have had; the scenery is pretty; it is on a
bend of the river, which here has groves of cotton-
woods; sand hills below us approach close to the
river, on both sides, and shut up the valley. A very
friendly mayor-domo of a neighboring ranche, has
sent us word that forty of the Navajos passed the
¿
78
THE CONQUEST OF
river last night; thus warning us to be watchful of
our animals.
An express has arrived from Santa Fè; Colonel
Price reports his arrival; he confirms the death of
Colonel Allen of the Mormon Volunteers. And now,
at night, I have been selected to succeed him;
which, of course, must turn my face to Santa Fè
to-morrow. That is turning a very sharp corner
indeed; it is very military; (but it is said to be a
manœuvre not unknown to another profession.)
October 3d.-The camp is not moved to-day; a
very remarkable thing for General Kearny; but the
Mexican wagons, assisting transportation tempora-
rily, had this time to be waited for. It happens
very conveniently, as I have my company and
property to deliver to my lieutenant; I am kindly
allowed to keep three of my men, and shall leave
two of them in this neighborhood in charge of my
baggage, until my return.
And now comes a messenger with foaming steed;
he tells of a village twelve miles below, Pulvidera,
being attacked by Navajos, and a troop of dragoons
is ordered to their relief.
Orders were sent to-day to Colonel Doniphan to
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
79
make a campaign against the Navajos before pro-
ceeding on his adventures to the South.
About noon, accompanied by my bugler, I left
camp for Santa Fè. Near Savinal, I forded the
river, being desirous of seeing the eastern side of
the valley. I was told it was eight miles to San
Tomè; two miles further on a villager informed me
it was twelve miles from there; riding on several
miles through fine meadows, a respectably dressed
native told me it was just fifteen miles from there;
several miles further I met a man on foot who as-
sured me it was twenty miles; I had been all the
time approaching the phantom village. Several
miles further on, at dark, I came to the camp of a
caravan merchant, who offered me supper; he in-
formed me it was really six miles from there to
Tomè; and so I found it, and without a house on
the road. In the edge of the village however, some
trees and a corn-field round a house, tempted me to
seek lodgings there, as it was quite dark. The fellow
opened the door, and the light, at sight of horsemen,
was instantly blown out; he jerked out, like a pistol
shot, "no hai" (there's nothing here). I could not
at the moment make the allowance of his fright or
80
}
THE CONQUEST OF
fear, which was prudence in such a country, for the
rudeness of his inhospitality: and so returned a bad
word or two in bad Spanish, as I turned off to enter
the town. There my wants were ministered to at
the padre's. In some after supper chat, I discovered
that my deficiency in Spanish could be helped out
by some command of Latin words common to the
priest and myself.
October 4th.-I arrived at breakfast time at the
straggling village of Valencia, and went to the house
of Señor Otero; one of the large residences here,
which are unlike any European or American. You
ride in at a great gate into a very spacious court,
surrounded on four sides by apartments, store.
rooms, offices, provision for all the requirements of
the family, the farm, and for trade; all one story, of
thick plastered and whitewashed walls.
It was
Sunday morning: I encountered first an Indian
slave woman, carrying to the chamber of a young
man, on a silver salver, chocolate and sponge cake,
which they take at rising; he was the store-keeper,
and a Texan by birth; and such was my own intro-
duction to a substantial breakfast, which came later.
I had some political chat with Señor Otero
i
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
∞
81
7
who, like the few other men of large wealth was mal-
content; they must dread, perhaps rather vaguely,
the loss of their iniquitous privileges; but he dis-
creetly vented his spleen on Armijo and his conduct
which he regarded as disgraceful; and professed
that he would have favored a voluntary annexation.
I wanted to get mules of Otero; his prices were
exorbitant.
I rode here a small brown horse, with a Roman
nose, that I think possessed the greatest virtues and
vices of the horse and the ass, with a trace or two of
the goat. Last year, on the last quarter of a two
thousand mile ride, on poor grass, he resented a
solitary application of spurs, by whirling around
like a dancing dervish, making several goat leaps,
and then prancing thirty miles;-put a severe bit
on him, and he would run away. He was the best
buffalo horse I ever rode; nervous to timidity, he
would nevertheless carry you along side of the shag-
giest monster of ten thousand rushing with a con-
cussion to shake the earth, regardless of the pol-
ished tip of horn and the malignant black eye roll-
ing toward him; only shrinking slightly with half
averted head, in expectancy of the pistol shot; his
82
THE CONQUEST OF
motion all the while so steady you could adjust the
nicest aim and I have thus brought down, on him,
a noble elk, surrounded by a forest of antlers, and to
the music of a thousand hoofs ringing like castanets!
Poor Brown!-Of all our enquiries, discussions, and
doubts, as to our destined California "bourne," per-
haps there has been but one agreed conclusion, viz :
that no horse could reach it, much less return."
(C
Well, I had set out with Bolinski, trusting in his vir-
tues, or else, resigned to the worst that might befall
his vices.
But this morning, although I was confident that
he had hitherto tried and exercised my patience to
virtuous perfection, in an unhappy moment, for both
of us, perhaps, he outdid himself and patience.
Approaching Otero's house, after a very free indul-
gence in eccentricities, he reached a crisis by trot-
ting off, backwards, until we soused into a muddy
and profound zequia. I swapped him to Otero, for
a mule. Poor Bolinski!
Continuing my journey with my attendant, I
arrived late, and spent the night at Señor Sando-
val's, three miles below Albuquerque; this is
another of the imposing feudal residences of this
}
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
83
primitive society.
And here I had the unhoped
success of purchasing of Señor Sandoval twenty
fine mules, to be delivered at Santa Fè, for one
thousand dollars.
On the 5th, we lay at Algodones; on the 6th, at
the picturesque rancho of Señor Vaca y Delgado,
my old acquaintance, where I camped so long, and
on the 7th reached Santa Fè.
The battalion had not arrived.
I find the quarter-master department without
funds; and with much allowance for disaffection, and
primitive ignorance, it is strange to add, with little
credit. The principal capitalists of the territory
are caravan merchants whose trade to the United
States has been almost wholly balanced by specie,
for which they have accepted bills of exchange.
The consequence seems almost fatal to my expe-
dition. A reasonable anticipation of its difficulties
demands a very careful and perfect outfit; and
especially in the now scarce and very expensive
article of draft mules.
It is interesting to read now from the Washing-
ton correspondence of a famous New York daily—
dated July 3d, that “In the capture of the city
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THE CONQUEST OF
of Santa Fè alone, it is estimated, that, if the
movement is prompt and efficient, at least fifteen
millions in specie and gold dust will be captured.”
While thus waiting, I give the incidents which
befell General Kearny's column before it passed
beyond this valley and communications; the news
of which has closely followed me.
The march was continued, October 4th, down
the river. The succor of Pulvidera was too late to
save a large amount of stock which the Navajos
drove off; and the General then published permission
to the people to retaliate, and make war upon the
Navajos.
On the 5th the column reached Socorro;—where
the guides had proposed to leave the river; but after
much discussion, they changed their mind.
On the 6th they marched thirteen miles. This
day Kit Carson with fifteen men,-
—an express from
California-was met; he had an important mail for
Washington.
The great news was a revolution or subjugation
of California under the auspices of Commodore
Stockton and Captain Fremont.
Six of Carson's party were Delawares; he start-
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
85
ed with fifty riding animals; the most of them had
been ridden down and abandoned; others swapped,
two for one, with Apaches, who proved friendly; he
came by the Gila. No news of the invasion of New
Mexico had been received in California.
General Kearny determined to take Carson to
guide him by the route he had just passed over.
Carson resisted very firmly, at first; he had
pledged himself to deliver his mail in Washington.
The General finally prevailed,—taking upon himself
every responsibility,--especially the prompt and
safe delivery of the dispatches.
Did the General stop to think what it was he
demanded? A man had just ridden eight hundred
miles over a desert, a wilderness,-where he could
meet no human being save a few savages likely to
seek his destruction; (he rode ninety miles without
halting, over a jornada of sand!) he had arrived at
the verge of society, and near the residence of his
family! He is required to turn right back, and for
another year of absence! That was no commen
sacrifice to duty.
General Kearny then decided to take only two
small troops of dragoons, as an escort, and also two
1
86
THE CONQUEST OF
mountain howitzers, sending back Major Sumner
with four troops to remain in the territory. He then
marched three days, with wagons, with eight picked
mules to the wagon; but a day and a half without
a road satisfied him; he sent for pack saddles, and
gave up the wagons. October 14th, he once more
resumed his march, and, next day being about two
hundred and thirty miles below Santa Fè, he left
the river, turned westward, toward the copper mines.
on the Gila, and wrote to Colonel Cooke, assigning to
him the task of opening a wagon road to the Pacific.
Colonel Doniphan, in obedience to orders, leav-
ing Colonel Price at Santa Fè, marched October
26th, against the Navajos. He directed one col-
umn of two hundred men under Major Gilpin up the
Chama River. It went as far as the mountains
dividing the waters of the Del Norte from those
of the Colorado, thence down the San Juan, and
by Red Lake to the valley of the Little Colorado.
With the remaining portion of the regiment he
left the Rio Grande at Albuquerque, and passed up
the valley of the Puerco, or Pecos of the West,
almost to its source; in three parties he visited
their whole country, and collected the most of the
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
87
tribe at Bear Spring (Ojo del Oso) and made a
treaty. The marches were over mountains, and
generally in snow. The regiment was concen-
trated at Socorro, December 12th.
COLONEL DONIPHAN'S CAPTURE OF CHIHUAHUA
-A BRIEF EPISODE.
The march for Chihuahua was begun on the 14th
by three hundred men, followed on the 16th and
18th by the rest of the regiment, and Lieutenant-
Colonel Mitchell of Price's second regiment with
ninety men.
This march in its beginning encountered the
celebrated Jornada del Muerto of ninety miles, des-
titute of water and fuel. It is across a bend of the
Rio Grande, and is cut off from that river by moun-
tainous ground.
On Christmas day, at a spot called Bracito, when
the regiment after its usual march, had picketed
their horses, and were gathering fuel, the advance
guard reported the rapid approach of the enemy in
large force. Line was formed on foot, when a black
flag was received with an insolent demand. Colonel
Doniphan restrained his men from shooting the
bearer down. The enemy's line, nearly half cavalry,
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THE CONQUEST OF
and including a howitzer, opened fire at four hun-
dred yards, and still advanced, and had fired three
rounds, before fire was returned within effective
range. Victory seems to have been decided by a
charge of Captain Reid with twenty cavalry which
he had managed to mount, and another charge by
a dismounted company which captured the howitzer.
The enemy fled, with loss of forty-three killed and
one hundred and fifty wounded; our loss seven
wounded, who all recovered.
The enemy were about twelve hundred strong;
five hundred cavalry, the rest infantry, including
several hundred El Paso militia; our force was five
hundred-Lieutenant-Colonel Jackson with a part of
the regiment arriving on the ground after the action.
Colonel Doniphan gave credit "for the most essen-
tial service in forming the line and during the en-
gagement" to Captain Thompson, First dragoons,
acting his aid and adviser."
December 27th.-He entered El Paso, and learn-
ing that General Wool was not in possession of
Chihuahua, he sent to Santa Fè for one of the bat-
teries of volunteer artillery; and waiting its arrival
remained at El Paso until February 8th.
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
89
He then resumed his march for Chihuahua; with
nine hundred and twenty-four effective men, and
three hundred and fifteen heavy traders' wagons
accompanied his march.
The
February 28th.--At the Pass of the Sacramento,
fifteen miles from Chihuahua, the enemy was dis-
covered in great force strongly posted, fortified by
entrenchments, and well supplied with artillery.
After an effective cannonade by the battery, Colonel
Doniphan advanced to the attack, with seven com-
panies dismounted in line, and three mounted.
decisive action of the battle was a charge by the
two twelve-pound howitzers supported by three
troops of cavalry, and followed up by the dismounted
line and the rest of the artillery; the howitzers "un-
limbered within fifty yards of the redoubts of the
enemy," who were attacked by sabre in their en-
trenchments.
The enemy were finally put to flight with a loss
of about six hundred men, and all their artillery, ten
pieces; our strength was "nine hundred and forty
effective men." Our loss nine killed and wounded.
Next day, March 1st, the army took formal pos-
session of the capital of Chihuahua.
Colonel Doniphan had been ordered by General
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THE CONQUEST OF
Kearny to report to General Wool. At Chihuahua
he provided for the safety of American citizens and
their very large caravan property, and then deter-
mined to encounter all the risks of another great
march; and, accordingly, with little or no loss, reached
Monterey, where he reported to General Taylor.*
The Mormon battalion arrived at Santa Fè
October 12th, and next day, Lieutenant Colonel
Cooke assumed command. It had been com-
manded by Lieutenant A. J. Smith,† first dragoons,
in its long march from Fort Leavenworth.
* I suspect that in this great venture they encountered, as a
milder incident of war, most danger from the fire of the feminine
eyes of the simple inhabitants; (but were they "ready" in their
boasted "rags and roughness" for the courts of Venus?)
The advance on General Taylor's line of invasion had been wisely
abandoned for a far shorter one to the heart and capital of Mexico;
and the regiment was ordered home for discharge. It marched to
Matamoras, carrying with them, nine hundred miles from Chihuahua,
their ten captured cannon; there it embarked for New Orleans, St.
Louis and Liberty, Missouri; making a grand circuit which counted
miles by the thousand, and throwing a coloring of romantic ad-
venture over the realities of its services; its share in the conquest
of far-distant New Mexico-its pursuit of the Navajos beyond the
snow-clad mountains of San Juan, and the pacification of that pow-
erful tribe—its battles, and the great victory of Sacramento.
It received an ovation in Saint Louis, and a rejoicing welcome
amid its homes in extreme western Missouri.-Not a fatted calf, but
a half tamed buffalo cow, belonging to the author, was a contribu-
tion to a barbecue given for their entertainment.
† As Smith is not a very distinctive name, it may be interesting
to mention that this one, now of Saint Louis, became a very distin-
guished Major General.
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
91
Every thing conspired to discourage the extraor-
dinary undertaking of marching this battalion eleven
hundred miles, for the much greater part through an
unknown wilderness without road or trail, and with
a wagon train.
It was enlisted too much by families; some were
too old,--some feeble, and some too young; it was
embarrassed by many women; it was undisciplined;
it was much worn by travelling on foot, and march-
ing from Nauvoo, Illinois; their clothing was very
scant; there was no money to pay them,——or
clothing to issue; their mules were utterly broken.
down; the Quartermaster department was without
funds, and its credit bad; and mules were scarce.
Those procured were very inferior, and were dete-
riorating every hour for lack of forage or grazing.
So every preparation must be pushed,-hurried.
A small party with families, had been sent from
Arkansas crossing up the river, to winter at a small
settlement close to the mountains, called Pueblo.
The battalion was now inspected, and eighty-six men
found inefficient, were ordered, under two officers,
with nearly all the women, to go to the same point;
five wives of officers were reluctantly allowed to
3
92
THE CONQUEST OF
accompany the march, but furnished their own
transportation.
By special arrangement and consent, the bat-
talion was paid in checks,-not very available at
Santa Fè.
With every effort the Quartermaster could only
undertake to furnish rations for sixty days; and in
fact full rations of only flour, sugar, coffee and salt;
salt pork only for thirty days, and soap for twenty.
To venture without pack saddles would be grossly
imprudent, and so that burden was added.
October 19th the battalion was pushed out, by
companies, six miles to Agua Frio; where some
grazing might be had.
After dispatching a multitude of last duties, I
left town and arrived in camp at sunset. Here I
found all huddled in the sandy creek bottom; no
grass; many mules without ropes or picket pins:
they, and the beeves and oxen were to be herded
under rather difficult circumstances. Some fodder
had been procured.
The battalion have never been drilled, and,
though obedient, have little discipline; they exhibit
great heedlessness and ignorance, and some obstinacy.
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
93
I have brought road tools and have determined to
take through my wagons; but the experiment is
not a fair one, as the mules are nearly broken down
at the outset. The only good ones, about twenty
which I bought near Albuquerque, were taken for
the express for Fremont's mail,--the General's order
requiring "the twenty-one best in Santa Fè."
Next day a march of ten miles was made to the
last water on the road to the river; an order of
regulations for the march was issued; and the ra-
tion was lowered to twelve ounces of flour, and three-
fourths allowance of sugar and coffee; but that of
beef increased one-fifth, to a pound and a half.
Extracts from Colonel Cooke's official journal
will be given; some as specimens of daily doings;
some of incidents or other matters of unusual inter-
est,—a few of apparently insuperable obstacles and
dangers, necessarily encountered, and overcome,-
or endured.
"October 21st.-I ordered a very early reveille and
march, to accomplish the twenty-four miles. I got
the wagons ready before eight o'clock; having or-
dered, as a spur, that each company should send off
its baggage as soon as ready; and that they should
94
THE CONQUEST OF
march in that order. At the last moment I learned
that nineteen beeves and fourteen mules were
missing. I had ordered that the guard--increased
to twenty-seven privates--should guard the animals
by night; a corporal and four privates, butchers,
should drive the oxen; and a corporal,--on daily
duty, and six of the guard, drive and take care of
the extra mules (except during the night). I had
broken up yesterday, an old wagon I found here, for
the axles, and the spokes, ordered to be made into
picket pins. I was, of course, without mounted men
to send after the missing cattle. I sent the officer
of the day, and every member of the old guard in
pursuit, in four parties, with orders to re-assemble
here, and none to come on until all the animals
were recovered; but this consumed an hour.
They were all recovered. I passed the whole
column and reached the Gallisteo at eleven o'clock,
and found it was possible to water there. I stopped
until all had passed me, directing them to move
on down, so that all the animals should be taken
from the wagons, and should drink at the same
time. I was on the ground an hour and three-quar-
ters before the last wagon passed me.
Each com-
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
95
pany marches in the rear of its baggage.
On this
terrible sandy road, down the stream, several oxen
fell, and had to be rolled out of the road, they
making no motion; the feet of others were bleeding.
The last of the command have got into camp at
nine P. M., several wagons not getting nearer than
a mile.
I had a little wood brought from the last.
hill top; there is none here. I had sent forward my
interpreter, who only succeeded in buying twenty-
four bushels of ears of corn. Lieutenant Smith, as-
sistant-commissary of subsistence, and Lieutenant
Stoneman, acting assistant quartermaster, arrived
from Santa Fè since dark."
October 23d.—Next day eleven miles were accom
plished, to San Bernalli. Many mules failed,
and efforts to hire wagons failed, owing to the ill
disposition of the citizens of property; and so again
to-day. There was rain and wind last night, and
I slept under a fallen tent. Many are sick. I de-
termined to purchase mules, if possible. Passed the
camp of a major and three companies of Price's
regiment, who left Santa Fè, four days before the
battalion; the major said, "after a day's march it
took him two or three to collect the animals."
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THE CONQUEST OF
The assistant-quartermaster succeeded in ex-
changing thirty mules, worthless to us, for fifteen
good ones, and also in purchasing ten. At Albu-
querque I bought twelve fanegas of ears of corn,
and crossed the river; making my way through
three miles of very bad road. I encamped with
comparatively good grass, and near the camp of Cap-
tain Burgwin (from General Kearny's column) where
he had arrived this afternoon.
Here I purchased of officers eight mules with
treasury drafts, and exchanged as many for better
public animals, and also obtained twenty oxen.
The captain also kindly exchanged two ponton wag-
ons for very poor and heavy ones. This may be
very important.
It rained again last night. This has been a day
of hard and unremitting labor to me.
Next morning Captain Burgwin received a letter
from the American traders below, stating General
Armijo was marching up to seize their property, and
asking protection. A pack of Indian goods, left for
me by General Kearny was received from Captain
Burgwin.
Mr. Stoneman was much disgusted to-day by the
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
97
i
contemptuous refusal of a nabob named Chavis, to
sell or exchange mules.
I have ordered pork to be issued every fourth
day. I also issued an order of further regulations.
I assembled the captains this morning at reveille, and
earnestly exhorted them to lend me more efficient
assistance in requiring the mules to be properly
grazed and fed; or else the expedition must soon.
fall through. They made excellent promises. I
reduced to the ranks a first sergeant for failing to
form the company at reveille, and giving the excuse
that it was not light enough to call his roll. The
mules are now turned loose and herded, while in
camp.
“October 26th.--Marched at eight o'clock. Passed
several villages. I sent across the river to
Otero's store at Valencia, for some pack blankets,
for which the assistant quartermaster had an order,
and for purchase of mules. Otero, like Chavis-
both malcontents-asked unreasonable prices. He
had lost, yesterday evening, five or six thousand
sheep; two shepherds killed by the Indians. He
had been riding all night hiring men to pursue them.
I stopped some time in a settlement of the Luna
5
98
THE CONQUEST OF
family. All the effective males had gone after the
Navajos, who had also stolen six thousand six hun-
dred sheep of them yesterday; and as they say,
killed two of their shepherds. I wrote for Señora
Luna a note to Captain Burgwin. She thought herself
and the other women dangerously exposed. But what
can Burgwin do with broken down mules, all the best
having been selected by General Kearny? I am still
sick of a cold; they are very prevalent. We are ex-
posed to black frost nightly, without fuel. The mules
are getting sore shoulders. I called up the captains
and gave them a lecture on the subject, as to
fitting and cleaning collars, shortening harness,
etc. and relieving mules, about to become galled;
for I have assigned all the mules, giving two extra
ones for every team; the march thirteen miles.
Saw mother and daughter to-day,-the latter thir-
teen and married,-as usual here, at that age; both
fine looking, with the large liquid eyes of the Señora."
Two days of similar progress, to camp near
Sabinal. Rainy and very cold weather, the moun-
tains opposite covered with snow; "scarcely a
large weed within a mile or two of camp."
roads very heavy from sand.
The
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
99
}
October 29th.-Marched ten miles to the bot-
tom below La Joya,-where I found my two
dragoons, mules and property all safe. Sent Lieu-
tenant Smith to go in advance and purchase three
hundred sheep which, with the beeves, will make
sixty days' rations from Santa Fè. I have extreme
difficulty in having the mules properly cared for;
there is great vis incrtiæ in such a command.
Next day, a sand hill reaching the river bank
was encountered; two hours, with teams doubled,
and twenty men to a wagon, were required to reach
its top,-only three or four hundred paces. Reach-
ing Pulvidera, to get grass it was necessary to pass
a very large canal; the men worked well with
spades and large hoes, furnished by some Mexicans,
who worked with them unasked; but it was a diffi-
cult job; and a wagon hound was broken.
November 2d.--The battalion has marched
twenty seven miles in the last two days; the valley
continues much narrowed,-with variegated scenery
and woods. Many oxen broke down; and wagons.
were sent back empty with teams little better.
General Armijo it was learned had been sent
South under guard, and wrote to his wife to
...
100
THE CONQUEST OF
ப்பட
lend money freely to our army; and that the enemy
were gathering volunteers at El Paso. Captain
Burgwin, going to the protection of the caravans,
was encamped two miles from the battalion.
The three hundred sheep were brought into
camp, but proved to be very poor,—mostly lambs;
also the required beeves, very poor. The guides
engaged by General Kearny arrived, with very dis-
couraging accounts, and said it was at least ninety
days' travel to the Pacific. They were sent forward
to decide where to leave the Rio Grande, and make
some explorations beyond, returning to meet the
battalion there.
"All the vexations and troubles of any other
three days of my life have not equalled those of the
last twenty-four hours.
My attention is con-
stantly on the stretch for the smallest things. I have
to order, and then see that it is done."
This day the road we have followed, passed to the
east of the river; it being the head of the Jernada del
Muerto; the river sweeping off to the south-west in a
great bend. Consequently the battalion continued
on General Kearny's trail.
On Captain Burgwin's march, near Luna village,
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
ΙΟΙ
!
some inhabitants met him at speed, reporting that
the Navajos had just robbed them, and taken off a
woman (as I apprehended, when I wrote to him).
Captain Greer's company, which was much in ad-
vance, was sent instantly to the rescue, half his men
a-foot. He overtook and re-captured the cattle and
sheep, and following on about sixteen miles, the
mules of his company exhausted and left, and his
men following with long intervals on foot, the Cap-
tain, Lieutenant Wilson, Corporal Price and one
private (on horses got of the Mexicans), overtook
four Navajos; then uprose from a ravine fifty
others, who surrounded the captain and party.
These last killed two Indians outright, and then
retreated in good order under a shower of arrows,
and were pursued, in their turn, a quarter of a mile,
until they fell upon a few of their footmen, and
thus came off unwounded.
My camp is in an open grove of the river bot-
tom. We rejoice for once in plenty of fuel and good
fires. In every direction are lofty mountains, blue
from distance or haze, and capped with snow
fields.
In this bottom I saw a flock of many thousand
"
102
THE CONQUEST OF
sheep, probably the last. I sent Lieutenant Smith
with $100 to purchase eighty, to make up for the
lambs. I ordered him to give the same price as
yesterday, and to take them. He got them. I
shall use about ten of the oxen for beef. I have
hired three Mexicans and put the three hundred and
eighty sheep under their exclusive charge. I found
that we could improve on the track made by the
dragoons.
November 3d.—The camp was visited this morn-
ing by Captain Grier and one of our merchants.
Reports of the war had been received by way of
Chihuahua; "the Americans were in Monterey, but
invested by superior force of Mexicans," etc.
There have been strong suspicions down here,
of a conspiracy to rise and throw off the American
rule in this territory; connected perhaps at the
moment, with the advance of seven hundred men
who certainly did march from El Paso north; and
there is no doubt they have emissaries above. I
learn the last express to Captain Burgwin brought
news of a talk in Santa Fè of a rising of the people.
As for myself I believe that the priests and some of
the millionaires would like to put forward others to
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
103
:
:
attempt to regain their despotic sway and grinding
oppression of the people; but take them all to-
gether I think the cowardly barbarians,-too fortu-
nate in having a decent government forced upon
them,—are selfish enough to refrain from any risk in
the world.
I marched to-day fourteen miles; some bad
bluffs of heavy sand were passed. The camp is on
a high plain, covered with grama grass, apparently
quite dead, but said to be nearly as good as grain.
For the last forty miles the flat river bottom is per-
haps two miles in width, some of it richer than
above. There is however, a white efflorescence,
rather more frequent here than there, which is said.
to contain carbonate of potash, and to render the
soil unfit for agriculture. This district, entirely
unoccupied, has the great advantage over that
above, so thickly inhabited, of forests covering per-
haps one-fourth of the bottoms, and the mountains.
also covered with cedar very near. Fear of the
Indians has kept it a desert.
We have severe frosts at night, and hot days.
I have reduced the ration to nine ounces of flour,
and ten of pork.
104
THE CONQUEST OF
i
I met one of the guides, whom Leroux, their
chief, sent back, ostensibly to settle upon smoke sig-
nals, but really, I suspect because he was of no use.
The fellow weighs two hundred pounds, and has
been drinking for a week or two; I ordered his
discharge.
It took a cow and twelve of the lambs to make
out the ration to-night. Dr. Foster, the inter-
preter, calls a large bush, found here, the mezquit;
there is a growth common on the Missouri and
Platte prairies, much smaller and more delicate,
which I am sure is the same, or nearly allied. I
could never hear of a name for it there, although I
think old Captain Boone used to call it bastard
locust.
The cactus here is ten feet high.
November 9th.—In six days, resting one, the bat-
talion could only make forty miles, in about the
same number of hours' work, camping this day at
the point where General Kearny struck out from
the river toward the copper mines.
This slow progress was over very bad ground,
without a road-deep sand, steep hills and rocks,
ten miles together, without river-bottom land; the
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
105
men, nearly all of them, laboring in aid of the weak
teams to move the wagons.
The country had changed its character and was
now rough, surrounded by mountains and charac-
terized by grama grass, cedars, mezquite and other
strange growths. Game made its appearance:
bears, deer, and beavers; some of these last were
trapped by Charboneaux, an active half-breed
guide. The weather grew warmer, but with one
rain and wind storm.
Mr. Leroux returned; he had left the river
where it turned eastward opposite San Diego, and
had found a water hole fifteen miles on our course,
and seen a prairie stream about thirty miles
beyond.
"It has now become evident that we cannot go
on so, with any prospect of a successful or safe termi-
nation to the expedition. The guides say that most
of the mules could not be driven loose to California.
I have carefully examined them and found that
whole teams seem ready to break down. The three
remaining ox teams were to go back about this time,
at the latest; twenty-two men are on the sick report;
quite a number have been transported in the wagons,
5*
106
THE CONQUEST OF
and the knapsacks and arms of others; there are
still in the battalion men old, weakly, and trifling;
besides all this, the rations are insufficient.
I have determined and ordered that fifty-five of
the sick and least efficient men shall return to Santa
Fè; that they shall take rations for twenty-six days,
-but of flour only ten ounces to the ration, and of
pork, eight. I shall thus be relieved of one thousand
eight hundred pounds weight of rations, and by
means of what they leave of the rations provided for
them, particularly the live stock, make an important
increase of rations for the remainder. But I have
also determined to send back, if possible, only one
team of oxen, and use for my mule wagons the ten
other yokes (the other wagons can be sent for;--
Captain Burgwin is only fifty-eight miles above).
There are some thirty loose mules which some think
will do nearly as well if packed only sixty or eighty
pounds. I have ordered the upright tent poles to
be left, muskets to be used as substitutes; and
tents to be reduced to one for nine men (which they
will hold, if opened and lowered to the height of a
musket). This all carried out, I trust with perse-
verance and energy to accomplish the undertaking;
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
107
though in a few days I commence a route of over
three hundred miles-to the San Pedro River-of
which the guides know little or nothing; Leroux
thinking himself very fortunate in finding water at
an interval of thirty miles at the outset. The
whole route is now said to be three hundred miles
longer than was believed when at Santa Fè; and
ten miles, making the road as we go, is a hard
day's work--equal to twenty ms or more of a
good road."
In that camp an express was received from Cap-
tain Burgwin, reporting information that a large
party of the enemy were coming from the South
by the copper-mine route.
The return party, under a subaltern, was got off
on the 10th; but it consumed the day. A large
number of tents, poles, camp kettles, and mess pans
were put in a wagon to be left under charge of a
beaver trapping party found there; the saddles
and packs were prepared, and some tried on, under
the instruction of the guides and other Mexicans.
Leroux, with several assistant guides, was ordered
to depart early next day to make further explora-
tion, and to send back one or two guides from a new
108
THE CONQUEST OF
point, to meet the battalion at the last water then
known, while he shall explore still further on.
About twenty-nine miles were made in the next
two days, with improvement of ground, chiefly in
river bottom, which had increased to a mile in width,
with a wide strip of timber; the country to the west
gradually flattening; mountains rising abruptly
from the eastern bank; but an apparently complete
gap was observed, which was thought to be where
the "jornada" road approaches within four or five
miles of the river; if so, it is where a future road
should cross and fall into the one now being
made.
There was an evident improvement of means;
thirty-six mules were lightly packed, besides oxen;
some of which "performed antics that were irresistibly
ludicrous, (owing to the crupper perhaps,) such as
jumping high from the ground, many times in quick-
step time, turning round the while,—a perfect jig."
"On the 11th, while Charboneaux was making a
rather remote exploration for water, I rode a mile
through willows, weeds and reeds above my head,
and found some in a densely timbered and brushy
bottom, and established the camp on the bluff, with
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
109
fine grass near. The tents are pitched with mus-
kets somewhat lengthened by a peg that enters the
muzzle; the backs are opened and a gore inserted,
so that they are stretched out into nearly a circle,
and are very capacious.
The 12th was a fortunate day; the pioneers
were several times at bad spots just ready for the
wagons as they arrived; and I discovered just in
time to set the wagons right, that we had got into a
cul de sac.
I had calculated that the wagons would
be lightened above twenty per cent, while the
rations were increased eight days. This is con-
firmed by the facility of motion.
November 13th.-A mile or two from camp a note
from Leroux was found on a pole, but also two
return guides were met, who directed the march
short to the right; and a march of fifteen miles was
made in a south-west course, always ascending over
gravelly prairie, uneven but not very difficult; and
then, in a rocky chasm a hundred feet deep, a nat-
ural well or reservoir of pure water was found.
There was no fuel, save a few bushes and Spanish
bayonet, but the country was well covered with
grama and buffalo grass.
I10
THE CONQUEST OF
And here, before describing this unique venture
of the exploration by a battalion with a wagon train,
of the unknown wilderness which must be passed to
reach California, it will serve the unities of place,
and nearly of time, to pause, and to record the com-
pletion of the conquest of New Mexico. For there
soon occurred an uprising against our bloodless, but
perhaps stern change of rule, which had found tem-
porary success, chiefly, it is believed, through an
audacious surprise. And it proved that the best.
traits of our nature at a low stage, combine with
the forces of ignorance and confirmed customs and
habits, to resent and resist an abrupt and forcible
bestowal of the greatest boons-the comforts of
civilization-Liberty itself!
II.
THE INSURRECTION
A
IN NEW MEXICO
AND THE FINAL CONQUEST.
BOUT the middle of December, Colonel Price,
Second Missouri Mounted Volunteers, left in
command by Colonel Doniphan, received informa-
tion that efforts to excite a general revolt were
being made. A former officer of the Mexican army
was arrested, and a list of all the disbanded Mexican
soldiers was found on his person.
Then many
others, supposed to be implicated, were arrested;
but the two leaders, Ortiz and Archuleta, made
their escape to the South. A full investigation
revealed that many of the most influential persons
in the northern part of the territory were engaged
in the conspiracy. But these prompt measures
seemed to be effectual in preventing an insurrection.
Charles Bent, the Governor, appointed by Gen-
eral Kearny, was an able man; amiable, and married
to a native of the country, he was considered quite
I12
THE CONQUEST OF
popular; January 14th he left Santa Fè to visit his
family at San Fernando de Taos,-near the Pueblo
de Taos, about seventy miles north of Santa Fè, and
near the top of the great southern promontory of
the Rocky Mountains. There, January 19th, the
governor, the sheriff, the circuit attorney, the pre-
fect and two others, were "murdered in the most
inhuman manner that savages could devise." The
same day seven Americans were also murdered at
Arroyo Hondo, and two others on the Rio Colorado.
The prefect, Vigil, was a New Mexican; and the
intention was apparent to murder every one who had
accepted office under American rule.
Colonel Price received this startling news at
Santa Fè the next day, and at the same time inter-
cepted letters calling upon the people of the lower
river for aid; he heard also of the approach, from
the north, of a constantly swelling force of insur-
gents.
The Colonel immediately dispatched orders to
Albuquerque, to Major Edmonson, to march up and
occupy Santa Fè; and to Captain Burgwin of the
first dragoons, to march north, with one of his troops.
to join him in the field. The Colonel marched,
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
113
January 23d, at the head of only three hundred and
fifty men, to meet the rebels; this force was all in-
fantry or dismounted cavalry, except a troop which
volunteered in Santa Fè under Felix St. Vrain, and
also four twelve pound mountain howitzers. It in-
cluded Captain Angney's little battalion, which so
gallantly contended with the cavalry for the lead in
the invasion of the Territory.
Next day Captain St. Vrain, in advance, encoun-
tered the enemy on heights commanding the road,
near the town of Cañada, and also occupying some
strong adobe houses at the base of the hills. Price
formed line, and advanced the howitzers, which
opened fire. A detachment of the enemy made a
movement to cut off our baggage train, then more
than a mile to the rear; the manoeuvre being ob-
served, Captain St. Vrain was sent to counteract it,
and succeeded in bringing up the train.
After a sharp cannonade, Price ordered Ang-
ney's battalion to assault the nearest houses, from
which issued a galling fire on his right flank; the
houses were handsomely carried; a general charge.
was then made; the artillery and three companies
assaulted successfully several houses in a grove from
114
THE CONQUEST OF
警
​which a sharp fire had been kept up; and St. Vrain
commenced a movement to gain the enemy's rear.
In a short time the enemy were in full flight, and
Cañada was occupied.
Our loss was two men killed, and a lieutenant
and six men wounded. The insurgents, estimated
at fifteen hundred in number, left thirty-six killed.
Next morning the New Mexicans showed in
some force on the distant heights, but on the ap-
proach of a detachment, sent to attack them, soon
disappeared.
Colonel Price advanced up the Rio del Norte as
far as Luceros, and early on the 28th, was joined
there by Captain Burgwin,-who brought his dis-
mounted company by forced marches,-by an
additional company of his own regiment, mounted,
and also by Lieut. Wilson, First Dragoons, with a
six pounder, which had been sent for.
On the 29th, with about four hundred and
eighty rank and file, Colonel Price advanced to La
Joya, and there learned that a party of the enemy
occupied a very strong pass or cañon, leading to
Embudo, but on a country road that was impracti-
cable for artillery and wagons; he therefore detached
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
115
1
Captain Burgwin with three companies, including
St. Vrain's, to attack them and force a passage.
Capt. Burgwin found the enemy six or seven hun-
dred strong, on the sides of the mountains at the
narrowest part of the gorge; they were protected by
dense masses of cedar trees, and large fragments of
rock. He dismounted St. Vrain's company, and sent
it to attack the slopes on the left, and a second com-
pany those to the right. Both companies advanced
rapidly in open order, firing with much execution,
and the enemy soon fled with a speed that de-
fied all pursuit. Capt. Burgwin marched through
the defile into the open valley, and then occupied
Embudo without opposition. Our loss was one
killed and one severely wounded; both of St.
Vrain's company. The insurgents' loss was reported.
twenty killed and sixty wounded.
On the 30th, Burgwin marched to Trampas,
where he was joined next day by Price, when the
whole force marched to Chamisola.
February 1st, the summit of the mountain was
reached, and the next day the command quartered
in the small village of Rio Chiquito, at the entrance.
to the valley of Taos. These two marches were
116
THE CONQUEST OF
through snow so deep that the troops had to break
the track for the artillery and wagons; many of the
men were frost bitten.
February 3d, Price marched through Fernan-
do de Taos to the Pueblo, which he found strongly
fortified. It was enclosed by formidable walls and
strong pickets; within the enclosure and near the
northern and southern walls were two large build-
ings of irregular pyramidal form, seven or eight
stories in height, each capable of sheltering five
or six hundred men. Besides these and similar
smaller buildings, a large church was situated in the
northwest angle, with a narrow passage between it
and the outer wall. The exterior walls and all the
enclosed buildings were pierced for rifles; every
point of the exterior walls was flanked by project-
ing buildings.
The western flank of the church was selected for
attack, and at 2 P. M., Lieut. Dyer, of the Ordnance
Department, opened fire from the battery at about
two hundred and fifty yards. The fire by the six.
pounder, and howitzers was kept up about two
hours, when, as the ammunition wagon had not
come up, and the troops were suffering from cold
1

NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
117
and fatigue, the forces were withdrawn to San
Fernando.
Colonel Price reported—" Early on the morning
of the fourth, I again advanced upon Pueblo. Post-
ing the dragoons under Captain Burgwin about two
hundred and sixty yards from the western flank
of the church, I ordered the mounted men under
Captains St. Vrain and Slack, to a position on the
opposite side of the town, whence they could dis-
cover and intercept any fugitive who might attempt
to escape towards the mountains, or in the direction
of San Fernando. The residue of the troops took
ground about three hundred yards from the north-
ern wall. Here, too, Lieut. Dyer established himself
with the six pounder and two howitzers, while Lt.
Hassendaubel, of Major Clark's battalion light ar-
tillery, remained with Captain Burgwin, in command
of two howitzers. By this arrangement a cross-fire
was obtained, sweeping the front and eastern flank
of the church.
"All these arrangements being made, the batteries.
opened upon the town at nine o'clock A. M. At
eleven o'clock, finding it impossible to breach the
walls of the church with the six pounder and how-
?
118
THE CONQUEST OF
itzers, I determined to storm the building.
At a
signal, Captain Burgwin, at the head of his own
company, and that of Captain McMillin, charged the
western flank of the church, while Captain Angney,
infantry battalion, and Captain Barber and Lieuten-
ant Boon, Second Mo. Mounted Volunteers, charged
the northern wall. As soon as the troops above
mentioned, had established themselves under the
western wall of the church, axes were used in the
attempt to breach it; and a temporary ladder having
been made, the roof was fired. About this time
Captain Burgwin, at the head of a small party, left
the cover afforded by the flank of the church, and
penetrating into the corral in front of that building,
endeavored to force the door. In this exposed situ-
ation, Captain Burgwin received a severe wound,
which deprived me of his valuable services, and of
which he died on the 7th instant. Lieutenants
McIlvaine, First U. S. Dragoons, and Royall and
Lackland, Second Regiment Volunteers, accom-
panied Captain Burgwin into the corral; but the
attempt on the church door proved fruitless, and
they were compelled to retire behind the wall. In
the mean time small holes had been cut in the
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
119
western wall, and shells were thrown in by hand,
The six pounder was now
doing good execution.
brought around by Lieutenant Wilson, who at the
distance of two hundred yards, poured a heavy fire
of grape into the town. The enemy during all of
this time kept up a destructive fire upon our troops.
About half past three o'clock, the six pounder was
run up within sixty yards of the church, and after
ten rounds, one of the holes which had been cut
with the axes was widened into a practicable
breach. The storming party, among whom were
Lieutenant Dyer of the ordnance, and Lieutenants
Wilson and Taylor, First dragoons, entered and took
possession of the church, without opposition.
interior was filled with dense smoke, but for which
circumstance our storming party would have suf-
fered great loss. A few of the enemy were seen in
the gallery, where an open door admitted the air,
but they retired without firing a gun.
The troops
left to support the battery on the north, were now
The
The enemy aban-
ordered to charge on that side.
doned the western part of the town. Many took
refuge in the large houses on the east, while others
endeavored to escape toward the mountains. These
120
THE CONQUEST OF
latter were pursued by the mounted men under
Captain Slack and St. Vrain, who killed fifty-one of
them, only two or three men escaping. It was now
night, and our troops were quietly quartered in the
houses which the enemy had abandoned. On the
next morning the enemy sued for peace, and think-
ing the severe loss they had sustained would prove a
salutary lesson, I granted their supplication, on the
condition that they should deliver up to me Tomas,
one of their principal men, who had instigated
and been actively engaged in the murder of Gover-
nor Bent and others. The number of the enemy at
the battle of Pueblo de Taos was between six and
seven hundred. Of these about one hundred and
fifty were killed-wounded not known.
Our own
loss was seven killed and forty-five wounded; many
of the wounded have since died.
"The principal leaders in this insurrection were
Tafoya, Pablo Chavis, Pablo Montoya, Cortez and
Tomas, a Pueblo Indian. Of these, Tafoya was killed
at Cañada; Chavis was killed at Pueblo; Montoya
was hanged at Don Fernando on the 7th instant,
and Tomas was shot by a private while in the guard.
room at the latter town. Cortez is still at large.
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
121
This person was at the head of rebels in the valley
of the Mora."
Thus in the prime of life, James H. K. Burgwin
of North Carolina, captain in First Regiment of
Dragoons, fell in the brave performance of duty.
He was accomplished, amiable, and much beloved.
It was lamentable that the Pueblos should in this
single case, have been induced by some strong de-
ceptions and incitements, to take up arms. The
above full account of their remarkable aboriginal pro-
gress in the defensive art of war, through which they
resisted for two days an artillery siege, and the singu-
lar defensive form of their dwelling houses, which as
citadels saved the most of their lives in the assault, is
given as most interesting. In the heat of the assault,
a dragoon was in the act of killing a woman, unrecog-
nized by dress, similar to the man's, and both sexes
wearing the hair long; in this extremity she saved her
life by an act of the most conclusive personal exposure!
Seven years after, the author raised, in half a day,
a company of irregulars in this same town, to serve
against the Apaches, and efficient fine fellows they
were.
The insurrection was general in the northern and
6
122
THE CONQUEST OF
eastern part of the territory. Vegas was saved from
revolt by the presence of a garrison; near there,
and other northern posts of troops, were rather dis-
tant grazing camps; they were attacked with some
execution, and the loss of the animals. Some public
and sutler trains were robbed of all their oxen and
mules. At the handsome village of Mora, eighteen
miles west of the present Fort Union, eight Ameri-
cans were murdered. January 22d, Capt. Hendley,
Second Missouri Volunteers, marched there from Ve-
gas the 24th, with eighty men; he found it occupied
by above one hundred and fifty men; he engaged
with a number, attempting to enter the town, who
were supported by a sally; he then assaulted the town;
he penetrated from house to house, some of which
were destroyed, and into one end of their fort,
where he was killed and several were wounded.
Lieut. McKarney then-apprehending the return
of from three hundred to five hundred men, who
had left there that day for Pueblo-withdrew, and
marched back to Las Vegas, with fifteen prisoners;
he reported fifteen to twenty of the enemy slain.
January 30th, the camp of Capt. Robinson was
surprised, and two hundred horses and mules
1
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
123
driven off, and one man killed and two wounded.
Major Edmonson marched to his relief from Vegas,
and afterward followed the banditti into a danger-
ous cañon of the Canadian River at the mouth of
the Mora; he reported, "the hills around them
literally covered with Indians and Mexicans," esti-
mated to be above four hundred. He fought his way
through with much difficulty; but having to return
the next day through the same cañon, he found
"that the enemy had left on the night after the
battle in great haste, leaving horses, cattle, camp
equipage, etc., not taking time to scalp or strip our
men lost in the action, as is their custom."
pursued, but found that they had dispersed after
dividing their spoil. The enemy's loss was reported
to be forty-one killed.
He
June 27th, Lieut. R. T. Brown, Second Mis-
souri Volunteers, went with two volunteers and a
Mexican guide in pursuit of some horses which had
been driven off from Vegas; he found them at Las
Vallas, fifteen miles south, and attempting to seize
them, the Mexicans resisted, and attacked and killed
the whole party. Major Edmonson then marched
from Vegas, surprised the town, shot down a few who
124
THE CONQUEST OF
attempted to escape, took forty prisoners and sent
them to Sante Fè for trial.
On the sixth of July, the grazing camp of Cap-
tain Morris's company was attacked; Lieutenant
Larkin and four men were killed, and nine wounded,
and all the horses and other property fell into the
hands of the outlaws. Lieutenant-Colonel Willock
marched from Taos in their pursuit, but could not
overtake them.
Colonel Price reported July 20th that his com-
mand was so reduced by the departure of companies
whose time had expired, that he considered it ne-
cessary to concentrate all his forces at Santa Fè; that
rumors of insurrection were rife, and also of a large
force approaching from the South; he adds, “it is
certain that the New Mexicans entertain deadly
hatred against the Americans."
His call for reinforcements had been anticipated;
and by autumn, fresh volunteer regiments from
Missouri, engaged for the war, had swelled the force
in New Mexico to above three thousand; about
double the numbers of those who made the first
audacious invasion, and apparent conquest.
And New Mexico then submitted.
!
}
III.
THE INFANTRY MARCH TO THE
PACIFIC.
HE Mormon battalion was left fifteen miles
THE
west of the Rio Grande, in camp near a deep
ravine in which was a natural well of rock, which
the sagacity of the guides had discovered, to make
their first venture in the desert a success.
This was
November the 13th, 1846.
Next day it entered upon a grassy plain extend-
ing indefinitely to the south-west; small isolated
mountains rose here and there to view, but a low
range barred the better course westward; four
miles out, a guide was met, reporting Leroux and
the others at a mountain streamlet eight miles off,
and more to the north. The camp was made there.
"Thus Leroux, on his second trip-or third, if he
attempted the exploration promised by the General,
—has only reached about forty miles from the river!
I have no guide that knows any thing about the
126
THE CONQUEST OF
country; and I fear such exploring will prove slow
and hazardous work. He goes to-morrow with six
men, and is to send back one for each of my
marches. The weather is cold and boisterous,
threatening snow. We find here apparently the
remains of a stone house, but only a foot or two
high, showing no marks of tools; also many frag-
ments of pottery, and a broken mortar of very hard
red stone, etc."
The 15th, it blew a gale with rain, snow, and
sunshine, alternately; as there was fuel, and the
guides were behind hand, the battalion did not
move.
Next day it marched to the south, skirting the
foot of the mountain about thirteen miles, and
camped at a small swampy hole of water near a gap
of the mountain. (This has found its way to some
of the maps as Cooke's Spring.) There was no
wood, but brush answered for fuel. "Charboneaux
has returned, and reports the gap in front of us to
be practicable, and that there is water six miles on;
he went with the others about twelve miles beyond
it, without finding other water."
On the 17th, the gap was passed without much
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
127
difficulty, and turning north, the water was found
up a ravine to the right, but only three miles
from the other camp. As the guide had gone
twelve miles further without discovering water, it
was necessary to camp there.
*
"I saw to-day a new variety of oak, a large
luxuriant bush, eight or ten feet high, with leaves.
about an inch long; they are still very green :
also a new and very beautiful variety of the Span-
ish bayonet: very large and spherical in shape, the
largest leaves (or spikes) three feet long, and in-
dented like a fine saw, with a stalk eighteen feet
high from the centre. Tasson, a guide, hunted
and killed in the mountain, two goats which were
found to have cropped ears.
"At this camp the California partridge was
first observed. They are rounder, smoother, and
have longer necks than ours, with a beautiful
plume to the head, and are slate colored. Also a
cactus of hemispherical form, fifteen to eighteen
inches in diameter, with ridges armed with horny
hooks three inches long. Thirty mortar holes cut
into flat rocks were found this morning."
Since named Quercus emoryi.
128
THE CONQUEST OF
November 18th.-The battalion marched eighteen.
miles in a north-west course to the Mimbres, (osiers,
some of which were there found,) a clear, bold
stream, running to the south, but sinking a little
below the camp.
Next day in a south-west course, slightly ascend-
ing over a smooth prairie, to Ojo de Vaca, (Cow
Spring) about eighteen miles were made. This spring
is on a road from the copper mines to Yanos.
November 20th, spent in camp, was an anxious
day. The guides had all returned, having found a
little water in the end of a ridge, in a south-west.
course toward San Bernadino-a deserted rancho,
known only by report. They had gone only about
twelve miles further in that direction, but the
absence of any indication of water, had discouraged
and turned them back. By common consent the
certainty of water at that point (thought to be about
seventy, but really above one hundred miles distant)
made it an objective point; for all shrink in-
stinctively from entering the vast table land to the
west, where no broken ground, no hill, no tree, could
be seen from a stand-point four hundred feet high.
The despairing wanderer whose life depends upon
::
{
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
129
finding water, always turns with hope to a mountain,
to a tree, or to broken ground.
A high peak, close to the spring, was ascended,
and anxious consultation there held. This road, for
copper ore, led to Yanos; my interpreter had been
there the previous summer; he and the guides were
positive it lay to the south-west, six or seven days'
marches; the interpreter knew there was a road or
trail from there to the presidios Fronteras and Tuc-
son due west. This would surely be giving up the
discovery of "a wagon road to the Pacific!"
staff officers and the captains were taken into council;
they, the guides and Mr. Hall, (the volunteer and
M. C. elect, who had accompanied their last explo-
ration,) all agreed it was too great a risk to do other-
wise than take this Yanos road.
It was
The
found advisable at this camp, to order
the issues of flour and fresh meat to be increased to
ten and twenty-eight ounces.
•
November 21st.--I marched this morning by the
road, of which the guides had pointed out the course,
west of south. But I soon found it leaving level
prairie in its first course, and leading over a ridge,
twenty-five degrees east of south. I had relied on
6*
130
THE CONQUEST OF
the assertions that Yanos was to the south-west, and
balanced in my judgment of many other weighty
considerations, had taken advice. I had followed
the guides in almost every direction but eastward.
After proceeding a mile and a half, without any
further consultation, I turned short to the right,
and directed the march to the hole of water which
had been discovered to the south-west.
. I
encamped there, at the foot of the ridge, the water
being two miles up a narrow valley right away from
my course. Whilst camping, fortunately, some
water, enough for men's use, was found a quarter
of a mile off.
Next day the battalion took a south-west course,
preceded but two hours by the guides; the ground
smooth, slightly descending, well covered with grass.
To divide the greater labor of breaking the track, the
leading company and its wagons, after an hour, were
stopped until all had passed, and so with each in
turn; this became the rule.
A signal smoke was seen in the afternoon—
which should announce the discovery of water—
perhaps fifteen miles off in front. Keeping its direc-
tion, camp was made at dusk, without water.
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
131
Since dark Charboneaux has come in; his mule
gave out, he says, and he stopped for it to rest and
feed a half an hour; when going to saddle it, it kicked
at him and ran off; he followed it a number of
miles and finally shot it; partly I suppose from
anger, and partly, as he says, to get his saddle and
pistols, which he brought into camp."
Next morning the march began before sunrise.
"All admired the singular and unusual beauty which
followed its rising; but once or twice before had a
mirage (caused on great plains by unusual vapor)
been observed. A distant mountain ridge became
the shore of a luminous lake, in which nearer moun-
tains or hills showed as a vast city,—castles, church-
es, spires! even masts and sails of shipping could be
seen by some."
In the mountain ridge the water was found, but
it was not enough for the men to drink; it was soon
gone, and the poor fellows were waiting for it to leak
from the rocks, and dipping it with spoons! There
was nothing to do but toil on over the ridge. Six
miles beyond, a guide was met with news of water
three leagues further on.
We came in sight of what was apparently a river,
132
THE CONQUEST OF
but we believed it to be sand. For hours I rode on,
approaching it obliquely, but seemed to get no nearer.
At last I struck it after sundown, and found it some-
thing extraordinary; it was said to be the bottom of
a long dry lake or swamp. It appeared, in the obscu-
rity, something between smooth marble and a great
sheet of ice; wagons moved with traces unstretched,
and made no track. I sent to order those in the
rear to bear to the right, and take advantage of it
much sooner. I passed it in two miles, and found.
at its shore a swampy spot, with deep water holes.
The wagons arrived about eight o'clock, having
been thirteen hours in motion. We had marched
forty miles in thirty-six hours, without water. But for
the dry lake, we should not have reached the water
until the next day. Mr. Hall came to the right of
the ridge, and he thought it a shorter way.
A small trading party of Mexicans was found at
this point, where the battalion remained the next
day, the two last wagons only coming up that night.
Twenty-one mules were purchased of the Mexi-
cans, who gave a good report of a route to San Ber-
nadino; and one of them was engaged as a guide,
and to assist in opening communication with the
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
133
A
Apaches, whom they report to have plenty of mules,
they having lately returned from a successful raid
into Sonora.
erous massacre.
The clay flat which is thirty miles long, is called.
by the Mexicans Las Playas. "There occurred
here, ten years ago, a very extraordinary and treach-
An American named Johnson with
seventeen men of various nationalities, (with also a
Mexican captain and four soldiers, but who are said to
have left him before the occurrence) had come from
Sonora on a plundering expedition against the
Apaches, and for their scalps, for which fifty dollars
each were then offered by the government of So-
nora. Johnson met here above a hundred men,
besides women and children of the Apaches, for
trade; they had gathered round close, and unsus-
pected he had concealed a swivel between two
bags of flour; it was loaded to the muzzle with balls.
and chain. A man sat smoking, and at the signal,
uncovered the breech and fired; this was followed
by two rapid discharges of small arms.
"At this explosion, seemingly from the ground,
and unexpected as an earthquake, the Indians not
mangled or killed, fled in consternation. Johnson's
134
THE CONQUEST OF
party soon retired and were followed and fired upon
without effect by a party of the Apaches; but they
killed seven more of them, and reached Yanos in
rapid retreat. They took from the body of the
chief, Juan Josè, who was slain, an order which
Santa Anna in his Texan campaign, had sent to a
general officer; the Indians had captured it. John-
son still lives in Sonora."
In the three days following, about forty miles
were marched in the general south-west course,
passing a low mountain gap, through broken coun-
try, finding some small streams and good grass.
"Whilst the train was crawling up the pass, I
discovered Charboneaux near the summit in pur-
suit of bears. I saw three of them up among the
rocks, whilst the bold hunter was gradually nearing
them. Soon he fired, and in ten seconds again; then
there was confused action, one bear falling down,
the others rushing about with loud fierce cries, amid
which the hunter's too, could be distinguished; the
mountain fairly echoed. I much feared he was lost,
but soon, in his red shirt, he appeared on a rock; he
had cried out, in Spanish, for more balls. The
bear was rolled down, and butchered before the
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
135
I
wagons passed. It is a fact that both shots-and the
ball of the second, passed from the hunter's mouth
into the muzzle of his gun with only its weight to
send it home-made but one hole in the bear's skin,
in the side, and one ball ranged forward, the other
back.
There is much that is strange on this
table-land, studded with peaks and mountains of
every shape; but this afternoon all must have been
struck with the quiet beauty of the scene. The moun-
tain passed, before us we saw a smooth plain, narrow,
but unbounded to the front; the grama grass wav-
ing with the south wind, received from the slant
sunshine a golden sheen; but the whole had a blue
and purple setting of mountain ranges on either
side; the light, the shadows, the varying distances.
gave variety and beauty of hue; the near heights
dotted with cedars, the silvered granite peaks, and
the far off summits of the Gila Mountains; and then
the tree tops of the Las Animas, which we ap-
proached, gave the cheering promise, which the
bracing air welcomed, of comfort and rest.”
November 28th, a faint road was struck, believed
to be from Yanos; it very soon led to a very pre-
cipitous and rocky descent of perhaps a thousand
136
THE CONQUEST OF
18
29
feet into the heart of a wild confusion of mountains,
It was
which extended as far as could be seen.
soon discovered that the trail could not, at its first
descent, at least, be made passable for the wagons;
water within a mile was fortunately discovered, and
the battalion camped. Leroux and all but one
of the guides were still absent. Some exploration
was then made; all pronounced the first descent im-
passable for wagons; but immediately a large party
was sent to work a passage-way. That night
Leroux arrived, bringing an Apache chief, whom he
had managed with difficulty and much address.
Next morning it was owing to Leroux's positive.
assertions and arguments, that there could be, and
was no other pass but the horse trail, that I did not
insist upon his thorough examination. He even
asserted, but was mistaken, that he had examined
an opening I had seen from an eminence, and
believed might be a wagon road. Meanwhile the
party continued, the second day, hard at work with
crowbar, pick, etc., while I sent one company and
about half the baggage, packed on mules, to the first.
water on the trail in a deep ravine below. It was
about six miles, and the mules were brought back
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
137
in the evening. Next morning they took the rest
of the loading, and I succeeded that day with much
labor and difficulty, in getting the wagons to the
new camp. Some were let down by ropes, and one
was broken. About this time, Doctor Foster, inter-
preter, accidentally found the intersection of an
old wagon road with mine, and said he followed it
back, and that it led to the verge of the plain about
a mile from our point of descent. He says this is
called the pass of Guadalope, and that it is the only
one for many hundred miles to the south, by which
the broken descent from the great table-land of
Mexico can be made by wagons, and rarely by pack
mules
"The scenery to-day was grand and picturesque.
At one place there is a pass not thirty paces wide;
on one side a cliff overhangs the road; just opposite
on a vertical base of solid rock, forty feet high, rests
another rock of a rounded cubical form of about
twenty-five feet dimensions; on its top rests still
another of spherical shape, twelve or fifteen feet in
diameter. The mountains and sharp ravines were
well covered with the new species of oak of large
size, cedar, sycamore, etc., Spanish bayonet, mez-
138
THE CONQUEST OF
quit and other shrubs, all of a bright green. We
descended about one thousand feet. Private Allen
has disappeared."
December 1st.-Seven miles were made down
the dry bed of a mountain stream, and the pioneers
went to the edge of a prairie, and returned. The
scenery was beautiful; broken mountains, preci-
pices, and a confusion of rocks; the mezcal and
Spanish bayonet become trees; evergreen oaks, cot-
tonwoods and sycamores brilliantly colored by frost.
"Messrs. Smith, Hall, and myself have ascended a
peak, near by, some eight hundred feet high. Our
view was extensive. A few miles to the south, we
saw the Huaqui, which becoming a large river, emp-
ties far down into the Gulf of California. To the
north-west we saw a prairie for thirty or forty miles,
narrowed by the mountains, seen every where else,
to a gap-like outlet. We supposed that must be
our course. San Bernadino was not visible. The
top of the mountain was about thirty yards by fif
teen. I suggested what a world's wonder it would
be, set like a gem in the grounds of the capitol.
The rocks, like all on this mountain, glittered with
crystals of silex, white, pink, and even purple; there
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
139
grew a giant mezcal thirty feet high, and others of
this year; bristling spheres of green bayonets, three
feet long; several shrubs without a name; cacti,
from a little pink ball at your feet, to the size of
trees; a nondescript, thought to be of that family,
sending out rods fourteen feet long, with rosin for
bark, and two inch spikes for leaves, which I named
'devil rod,' etc."
Next
That night thick ice formed in the tents.
day the battalion was soon clear of the cañon, and eight
miles brought them into and across wide meadows.
to the old houses of the rancho of San Bernadino;
it is enclosed by a wall with two regular bastions;
the spring is fifteen paces in diameter. The soil was
thought good, but the grass at that time was poor;
the rising ground beyond was a mezquit chaparral.
Before this rancho was desolated by the Apaches,
there were reported to be eighty thousand cattle on
it; the Gila was said to be its northern boundary.
The ox, in a perfectly wild state, abounds here;
the guides have shot three or four. As we descended
from the high ground, an immense red bull rushed
by in front, at great speed; it was more novel and
exciting than the sight of buffaloes.
1.40
THE CONQUEST OF
The following day, December 3d, was passed at
San Bernadino. The hope of obtaining mules of
the Apaches resulted in disappointment; quite a
number of them came to the camp, but none of the
village which Leroux had visited; they gave infor-
mation as to the route to the San Pedro, and
promised a guide. They are poor, dirty Indians, but
are generally dressed in cotton shirts, and many in
trousers; they wear fine moccasins, with tops, or
leggings attached. They ride fine horses, and are
armed with formidable lances, guns and bows; they
are ugly and squalid, wear their hair generally long,
and in various fashions. They wear a kind of leather
skull cap, now and then ornamented by feathers.
They seem to understand Spanish, and no doubt
speak it, imperfectly; but all Indians have a singu-
lar aversion to using, when not really necessary, any
language foreign to them; their own tongue is, by
far, the most brutal grunt that I have ever heard;
their lips scarcely move, and the words come out a
stuttering, jerking guttural.
That day, Allen-who is the only member of the
battalion not a Mormon, got back after an absence
of five days; he had found our road just beyond the
..
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
14I
first descent into the pass, and his great misfortunes
seem to have turned upon his taking it for granted
that the command could not have come that way;
ес
he had been stripped of every thing by Indians, and,
having no knife, had eaten of a dead horse, in the
fashion of a wolf.
A party of pioneers worked on a Fronteras trail, as
far as it should be followed,-six or eight miles, and
finding water, returned. Hunting parties were sent
out, and brought in at night, beef enough for five days.
.
December 4th.-No Indians came in, and the
guides were sent forward. In the afternoon the bat-
talion marched eight miles to the west, into a pass
of a low range of hills. There is a remarkable rock
one hundred feet high just back of the camp; and
in front, a peak with a façade of rock apparently
painted green, yellow and brown; it is the natural col-
or combined with moss; between is a rocky basin of
water, and there is some good grass. Apparently hun-
dreds of wild cattle come here to water daily. The
road which we cut to-day is much up hill, and gen-
erally through thickets of mezquit, or thorny bushes.
This camp is less than twenty miles from Fronteras,
Sonora.
142
THE CONQUEST OF
December 5th.-The defile was long and rough;
the tongue of a wagon was broken; but some of
the useful parts were brought on. The condition of
many of the mules may be judged from the fact that
two died last night, the warmest for a month, after
several days' rest, and a march of only eight miles.
Fourteen miles brought me to a large spring, which
as usual, is lost after running a few yards. I met
the Indian guide passing back rapidly on his grey
horse, bow in hand, and giving the column a wide
berth. I however brought him to, and had a little.
talk with him in barbarous Spanish. He was very
uneasy. I thought at first he had run off from
Leroux. The wild cattle are very numerous. I
saw one killed, but only after twenty wounds, and a
number of the shots at ten paces, as sometimes
with buffalo. Mr. Hall was chased by one, and put
in much danger by the obstinacy of his mule. I
measured the spinal process of one, ("hump rib")
that was eleven inches in length.
On the 6th, the battalion cut its way twelve.
miles through mezquit; there was rain and some
snow, so that a camp at a water hole at a fine grove
of oak and walnut was very welcome. The assim
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
143
ilation of the wild cattle to buffalo, was further ob.
served in the separation, most of the year, of bulls
from all the rest. Cows or calves were scarcely
seen, and none killed.
Next day the battalion remained in camp, and
were busy smoking beef. In the evening a guide
returned, reporting no water for twelve miles, but
the grass unusually green, and indications of the
river being not many miles beyond.
December 8th.-There was a march of seven-
teen miles to the north-west, and the battalion had
to do without water. The valley of the San Pedro,
stretching far north, gave indications that the river.
was very near. They passed near a field of snow.
Wild horses were seen very near.
December 9th.--I marched at sunrise. As we
approached a long black streak of mezquit, etc.,
where we imagined we should find the San Pedro,
we were much disappointed. We fell into the
smooth valley of a dry branch, and I finally, in my
great anxiety, feared we had passed too far south
for the river, or that this dry branch was the head
of it; the guides had all become doubtful them-
selves. Troops of wild horses, cattle and antelopes,
144
THE CONQUEST OF
seemed to invite the attention, little of which was
given. Leaving the great valley of the dry branch,
we soon left behind all appearances of broken ground,
mezquit or timber; taking our course toward a
mountain range, which was white with snow, and
from which a northwester cut us to the bone. A
vast unbroken slope of prairie was before us; my
anxiety became very great, and I pushed on at a
fast gait to the guides, and after ascending some-
what, saw a valley indeed, but no other appearance
of a stream than a few ash trees in the midst; but
they, with numerous cattle paths, gave every prom-
ise of water. On we pushed, and finally, but not
until within twenty paces, I saw a fine bold stream!
There was the San Pedro, so long and anxiously
sought. I crossed the stream without difficulty,
to the other and smoother side of the valley, at
noon, and camped six miles lower down. We were
twenty-seven miles without water. My animals get
grama grass every night on the hills; it is straw
colored, and looks dead, but the mules have lately
improved on it, and the thousands of wild cattle and
horses are fat.
Next day the march was fifteen miles down the
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
145
river. It seemed a fertile valley, the low grounds
about a mile wide; salmon trout, eighteen inches.
long, were caught. The wild cattle were still more
numerous, and it was observed that they made dry
"wallows" like the buffalo.
On the 11th, there was found very high grass in
the bottom, which was also lumpy. At two
o'clock, I again came to a cañon, and several men
having been wounded, and much meat killed, I en-
camped.
There was quite an engagement with bulls, and
I had to direct the men to load their muskets to
defend themselves. The animals attacked in some
instances without provocation, and tall grass in
some places made the danger greater; one ran on
a man, caught him in the thigh, and threw him.
clear over his body lengthwise; then it charged on
a team, ran its head under the first mule and tore
out the entrails of the one beyond. Another ran
against a sergeant, who escaped with severe bruises,
as the horns passed at each side of him; one ran
at a horse tied behind a wagon, and as it escaped,
the bull struck the wagon with a momentum that
forced the hind part of it out of the road. I saw
7
146
THE CONQUEST OF
one rush at some pack mules, and kill one of them.
I was very near Corporal Frost, when an immense
coal-black bull came charging at us, a hundred
yards. Frost aimed his musket, flint lock, very
deliberately, and only fired when the beast was
within six paces; it fell headlong, almost at our feet.
One man, charged on, threw himself flat, and the
bull jumped over him and passed on.
A bull, after receiving two balls through its
heart, and two through the lungs, ran on a man.
no
I
have seen the heart. Lieut. Stoneman was acci-
dentally wounded in the thumb. We crossed a
pretty stream which I have named "Bull Run.”
Then Leroux and
The river was followed two more days, twenty-
two miles, making sixty-five in all; the ground
became more difficult, with the approach to moun-
tains extending to the Gila.
other guides returned from an exploration of the
table-land to the west, where at twenty miles dis-
tance, they had found water, on a trail to Tucson ;
at it were a party of Apaches, some Mexicans dis-
tilling mezcal whiskey, and some soldiers; they
reported a garrison of two hundred men at Tucson.
Leroux, to get off, invented some story, and Foster,
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
147
1
the interpreter had thought proper to go on to
Tucson, to give it more probability.
The battalion were exercised in arms, and an
order was read, announcing a march for Tucson;
not specially to attack it, but it was necessary to
overcome all resistance."
December 14th, the battalion turned up the bluff,
ascending for nine miles, when the trail was struck.
About six miles from the still-house, I ordered
fifty men to follow, and pushed on with my suit,
and passed the advance guard and pioneers. Com-
ing to water, I rode in among four or five soldiers in
uniform, cutting grass, their horses and arms at their
saddles, near by; they seemed scarcely to notice our
arrival; a strange simplicity; but indicating a convic-
tion that the savages were their natural and only
enemies.
The camp was established at dark, on good
ground with water, grass and fuel. The march was
twenty miles.
The sergeant of the Mexican party said that
reports had been spread which alarmed the people,
who were about to fly; and the commandant sent me
a request not to pass through the town; that he had
148
THE CONQUEST OF
orders to prevent it; but that I might pass on either
side. I told the sergeant, that if the garrison was
very weak I should probably not molest it; but to go
back and tell the people, that we were their friends,
and wanted to purchase flour, etc. He soon left.
Next day twelve miles were marched, and the
camp was made, as expected, with no water; quite
an obstacle was encountered in a new species of
cactus, which maddened some of the mules. Four
other Mexican soldiers were met, who acted in the
same confiding manner, but were secured; on being
questioned in camp, the corporal, a son of Comadu-
ran the commandant, said that Foster was under
guard, but had been begged to come with them, and
refused! A note was sent by one of the pioneers,
demanding Foster's return to this camp; and adding,
that the prisoners were held as hostages.
Another extraordinary variety of cactus was
seen which should be called columnar; a straight
column thirty feet high, near two feet in diameter,
fluted very similarly to the Corinthian column, only
the capital wanting; some throw out one or more
branches, gracefully curved and then vertical, like
the branches of a candelabrum.
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
149
But two days' rations of meat had been issued
in the last two weeks from the commissary pro-
visions.
After midnight Foster was brought to camp by
two officers; one was a "commissioner," authorized
to make a special armistice. After a rather long
conference, they were dismissed with the proposi-
tion, that a few arms should be delivered as tokens
of a surrender, which only required them not to
serve against the United States during the present
war until exchanged.
The last camp proved to be sixteen miles from
the town. A few miles out, a fine looking cavalry-
man well armed was met; he delivered a dispatch,
and was suffered to retire without answer; it was
merely a refusal of the terms offered. The battalion
was made ready for engagement. Very soon after,
two Mexicans were met, who gave information that
the post had been evacuated, and that most of the
inhabitants had also left, forced off by the military;
that these last had carried off two brass cannon.
But about a dozen well mounted men met and ac-
companied the battalion into town: some of them
were said to be soldiers.
150
THE CONQUEST OF
The camp was made about half a mile beyond
the town, which is a Pueblo. About a hundred of
the perhaps five hundred inhabitants had remained.
The barracks are on the highest ground, enclosed
by a wall with abutments and battlements in bad
repair.
Some provisions were brought to the camp for
sale; the battalion was now without salt, and only
three bushels could be obtained there.
The valley of the little river, about a mile wide,
seemed fertile. The wheat was then green: the
only fruits observed were pomegranates and quin-
ces. There being little or no grass, a quantity of
wheat found in the forts was used for feed, and as
much as could be carried, was ordered to be taken
both for mules and men. A party from the garrison
had been sent to the Gila, perhaps to observe the
march of the battalion, expected to pass by General
Kearny's route; they were reported to have passed
back that afternoon, making a circuit round the
Pueblo.
Next morning, many mules having strayed in the
thickets, which would cover approaches to the town
and camp, it was thought well to make a demonstra-
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
151
tion at least, up the little river, toward a village, eight
or ten miles above; its remarkably large stone church
had been visible from the hills, in approaching the
town. Lieutenant Colonel Cooke, with a dozen
officers and others, mounted on mules, and about
forty volunteers from the battalion, accordingly
passed up; but marching four or five miles, it was
found that the thickets had become a dense forest of
mezquit trees, which extended to the village, of-
fering to the Mexicans an excellent ambush; and
so, while waiting for the straggling footmen to close
up, it was concluded that, the demonstration being
made, every reasonable object except the examina-
tion of the church, was accomplished, and so the
detachment returned to camp. Signal smokes had
been observed, and it was afterward ascertained,
that at this Indian-like announcement of the ap-
proach, the Mexicans further retreated; and the
reinforcements, which had come from the presidios
of Fronteras, Santa Cruz and Tubac, marched to
return to their posts.
A note was written to be delivered to Captain
Comaduran, on his return, enclosing a letter for
Don Manuel Gandara, Governor of Sonora, at Ures,
152
THE CONQUEST OF
who was said to be very well disposed to the United
States; it is here given:
Camp at Tucson, Sonora, Dec. 18th, 1846.
Your Excellency :--The undersigned, marching in
command of a battalion of United States infantry
from New Mexico to California, has found´it conve-
nient for the passage of his wagon train, to cross the
frontier of Sonora. Having passed within fifteen
miles of Fronteras, I have found it necessary to take
this presidio in my route to the Gila.
Be assured that I did not come as an enemy of
the people whom you represent; they have received
only kindness at my hands. Sonora refused to con-
tribute to the support of the present war against
my country, alleging the excellent reasons that all
her resources were necessary to her defence from
the incessant attacks of savages; that the central
government gave her no protection, and was there-
fore entitled to no support. To this might have
been added that Mexico supports a war upon Sonora.
For I have seen New Mexicans within her boundary
trading for the spoil of her people, taken by murder-
ous, cowardly Indians, who attack only to lay waste,
rob and fly to the mountains; and I have certain in-
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
153
formation, that this is the practice of many years;
thus one part of Mexico allies itself against another.
The unity of Sonora with the States of the
north, now her neighbors, is necessary effectually to
subdue these Parthian Apaches.
Meanwhile, I make a wagon road from the
streams of the Atlantic
Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean,
through the valuable plains, and mountains rich
with minerals, of Sonora. This I trust will prove
useful to the citizens of either republic, who, if not
more closely, may unite in the pursuits of a highly
beneficial commerce.
With sentiments of esteem and respect, I am
your Excellency's most obedient servant,
P. ST. G. COOKE,
Lieut-colonel of United States Forces.
To his Excel'y, Señ. Don Manuel Gandara.
Governor of Sonora, Ures, Sonora.
A false alarm was made that night; "at mid-
night I was awoke from sound sleep by one of the
picket guard, who, all out of breath, assured me that
a large Mexican army was coming from the town.
"Such a high-sounding announcement only aroused
g*
154
THE CONQUEST OF
I
dreamy thoughts of historical war, but instantly the
officer of the day informed me that a picket had
fired upon some body of men coming from town.
My trumpets instantly rang with the " assembly."
sent a company to the village, with a reconnoitering
party under Lieutenant Stoneman in advance, and
other dispositions were made. But nothing was
discovered."
The best information possible had been sought
as to the desert between Tucson and the Gila River;
it was a most formidable undertaking for the way-
worn footmen.
On the 18th, the march was resumed before ten
o'clock; the river sinks within a few miles; the
mules were carefully watered about seven miles out,
at the last water; the next three miles, down the
dry bed was exceedingly difficult, from sand and
otherwise. Leaving the course of the stream, the
level ground offered much obstruction in mezquit;
at dusk more sand was encountered; after that the
march was continued three hours over a level baked-
clay surface, with a few mezquit thickets. In one
of these the camp was made at nine o'clock P.M.
without water. There was no moon. The march
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
155
had been twenty-four miles. The mules were tied
up and scantily fed with wheat.
The march was resumed the 20th, at sunrise; it
was fourteen miles to the pass between two isola-
ted small mountains, and a water hole, reported to
be there, could not be found. There was nothing
to do but march on; there was the same baked-clay
surface, with a little sand. At sundown a very
small pool was come to; too shallow for dipping
with a cup, but enough for most of the men to get a
drink by lying down.
At 7 o'clock, after dark, permission was given.
to the captains to halt their companies at dis-
cretion, but not over six hours in all. The mules
would certainly go on better in the cold night with-
out water.
At 8.30 o'clock the advance guard, who had been
with the guides, were overtaken; they had stopped.
at a small pool, but the loose and packed mules,
which had been sent on, had rushed into it and con-
sumed or spoiled all. Just then an agreed signal
of sufficient water was observed, a fire made of
dry artemisia. The march was continued; it was
cloudy and very dark; after advancing a mile or
156
THE CONQUEST OF
two with difficulty over very uneven and bushy
ground the fire was reached, and found to have
been made by a stupid guide for his own comfort.
The mules could go no further over such ground,
and a halt for the rest of the night was ordered.
The battalion had then marched twenty-six
hours of the last thirty-six; they were almost bare-
footed, carried their muskets and knapsacks; the
mules had worked forty-seven miles without water.
A little wheat was now given to them.
The march was resumed at 7 o'clock A. M.; the
guides well ahead.
The road was very bad; after three or four hours
Leroux was met, with information of some pools
three or four miles on; he was sent on again to
search further. At II o'clock, part of the battalion
arrived there; sentinels were posted to prevent dip-
ping, and one pool was reserved for the beeves.
(When they reached it, they rushed in headlong,
spoiling all.)
Weaver, a guide, had reason to believe it was
eighteen miles further to the river; the temperature
was almost hot;-but soon, Leroux came again,
to illume the gloomy prospect by the happy an-
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
157
nouncement of a sufficiency of rain ponds a mile or
two on; and there, soon after noon, the battalion
arrived and camped; and there was mezquit for
the animals to browse. The guides were sent on.
This great plain of clay, sand and gravel, with
artemisias and mezquit, seems unbounded to the
west. I am told it extends a hundred miles; with
no water or animals; but in the dim distance un-
connected fantastically shaped mountains appear.
It is a gold district, and reputed to be of the very
richest; but never yet worked, on account of its
utter barrenness, and the fear of Indians.
I have been mounted thirty-two of the last fifty-
two hours; and what with midnight conferences,
alarms and marches, have had little rest for five days.
The battalion have marched sixty-two miles from
Tucson, in about fifty-one hours; no ration of meat
was issued yesterday.
December 21st.-The battalion marched at sun-
rise; the road was very good, and passed between
two small mountains, where the columnar cactus
abounded; a decayed one showed a framework of
wooden poles, cylindrically disposed, and evidently
suitable for shafts for lance or spear; the old columns.
·
158
THE CONQUEST OF
for some feet above the ground have a bark, and
exactly the appearance of the cottonwood.
We were soon gladdened at sight of the trees
of the Gila; but the trail bending westward, ap-
proached it obliquely, and we found it ten miles to
its bank. We had struck Gen. Kearny's route, and
here went into camp.
From the point where Gen. Kearny left the Rio
Grande, about two hundred and twenty eight miles
below Sante Fè, and where our routes diverged, to
their camp, near the Pimo village, I made a map and
sketch of my road; I had the aid of no instrument
but a compass.
Captain Emory of the Topographical Engineers,
on the General's staff, had the duty of making a
map with the aid, of course, of the best instruments,
for determining latitude, longitude, etc. My rude
map covered four hundred and seventy-four miles,
and it chanced to get into Captain Emory's hands.
while he was finishing his own map in Washington.
The tests which he was able to apply to it, proved
its singular accuracy, and he incorporated it with
his own. It appears in atlases as "Colonel Cooke's
wagon route."
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
159
The treaty of peace and boundaries with Mexico
established the Gila River as a boundary between
the two countries. A new administration, in which
southern interests prevailed, with the great problem
of the practicability and best location of a Pacific
Railroad under investigation, had the map of this
wagon route before them, with its continuance to
the west, and perceived that it gave exactly the
solution of its unknown element; that a southern
route would avoid both the Rocky Mountains and
Sierra Nevada, with their snows, and would meet
no obstacle in this, great interval. The new “Gads-
den Treaty" with Mexico was the result; it was
signed December 30th, 1853-
Accordingly it is found that the new boundary
agreed upon, is constituted chiefly of arbitrary right
lines; the most southern one being nearly a tangent
of the southern bend of the road.
This most costly acquisition of parts of Sonora.
and Chihuahua became an important part of the
New Territory, which received the name of Arizona.
Before we arrived here, although eight miles
above the Pimo village, there were many Indians on
the ground, and they have since flocked into camp,
160
THE CONQUEST OF
some mounted, and bring small sacks of corn, flour,
beans, etc. One brought me letters from General
Kearny and Major Swords, Quarter-master, which
mention eleven broken down mules and two bales of
Indian goods left for me with the Pimos. Being
informed that there is very little corn at the villages,
the guides were directed to open trade here; but
they reported the prices such, that they could do
nothing; and I have forbidden individuals to trade
for corn or wheat until further orders.
Many of these Indians, I was somewhat surprised
to see, are nearly naked; they manufacture cotton
blankets, and show every desire to be clothed; they
are good looking and very lively; they know nothing
of the value of money, and little of weights and meas-
ures; their language is a pleasant one. A few speak
the Spanish, and I was surprised to see one, who
spoke it well, have recourse to his fingers to explain
the subtraction of five mules, dead, from the eleven
left for me.
The weather is like early October in New
Mexico; warm days and cold nights. Cottonwoods,
the only tree here, are only partially yellowed by
frosts.
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
I6I
I have conversed with the principal chief, Juan
Antonio, and he and another have supped with me.
He said the commander of Tucson sent to demand
the mules and Indian goods left with him; that he
refused, and declared he would resist force with force.
He said I could see they were poor and naked, but
they were content to live here by hard work on the
spot which God had given them; and not like
others to rob or steal; that they did not fear us, and
run like the Apaches, because they made it a rule
to injure no one in any way, and therefore never
In fact the
expected any one to injure them.
Apaches do not molest them; but it is owing to
experience of their prowess.
I have spoken to the two senior captains of the
battalion on the subject of their settling near here;
they seem to look upon it favorably. Captain
Hunt asked my permission to talk to the chief on
the subject, and I approved of it.
The Pimos are large and fine looking, seem well
fed, ride good horses, and are variously clothed,
though many have only the centre cloth; the men
and women have extraordinary luxuriance and
length of hair. With clean white blankets and
162
THE CONQUEST OF
streaming hair, they present mounted quite a fine
figure. But innocence and cheerfulness are their
most distinctive characteristics. I am told the
Mexican officers used every persuasion, and prom-
ise of plunder, to excite hostility toward us.
A few bushels of sweet corn were bought, and
issued as rations.
December 22d, the march was resumed. Several
miles short of the village, groups of men, women and
girls were met, coming to welcome the battalion;
"These last, naked generally above the hips, were of
every age and pretty, walking often by twos with
encircling arms; it was a gladdening sight, so much
cheerfulness and happiness. One little girl particu-
larly, by a fancied resemblance, interested me much;
she was so joyous that she seemed very pretty and
innocent; I could not resist tying on her head, as a
turban, a bright new silk handkerchief, which I hap-
pened to wear to-day; the effect was beautiful to
see a picture of happiness!"
The camp is full of the Indians, and a great
many have some eatables, including watermelons, to
trade; and they seem only to want clothing or
cotton cloth, and beads. I am sorry they will be
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
163
disappointed.
It reminds me of a crowded New
Orleans market. There must be two thousand in
camp, all enjoying themselves very much; they
stroll about, their arms around each other, graceful
and admirable in form; their language certainly
sounds like ours; their honesty is perfect!
The march was resumed the 23d. At the chief's
house I stopped a few minutes; I told him I had
seen many tribes, and that the Pimos were the hap-
piest and most prosperous I had ever seen; that
as long as they adhered to their principles of
industry, honesty, peace and cheerful content, they
would continue so; that while they never injured
their neighbors, their true safety lay in uniting to
resist vigorously every aggression; that wishing
them well, I desired to add to their comfort and
welfare by introducing sheep among them, by giving
him for the ultimate use of his people, three ewes
with young, which was the best I could do.
I received to-day a letter from General Kearny,
written at Warner's rancho, California; indicating
that his arrival was very important, not only to the
welfare of California, but to its conquest.
The march was fifteen miles. The whole dis-
164
THE CONQUEST OF
:
•
tance was through cultivated grounds, and a lux-
uriantly rich soil; there is a very large zequia well
out from the river; the plain appeared to extend in
every direction fifteen or twenty miles. The camp
was made at the village of the Maricopas; notwith-
standing a different language, all that has been said
of the Pimos is applicable to them. They live in
cordial amity, and their habits, agriculture and man
ufactures are the same, as also their religion, which
consists in a simple belief in a great over-ruling
spirit. This seems to have proved a foundation for
a most enviable practical morality. Don Jose
Messio is their governor, and their population is
estimated as high as ten thousand. Their dwellings
are dome shaped wicker work, thatched with straw
or cornstalks, and from twenty to fifty feet in diam-
eter; in front is usually a large arbor, on which is
piled the cotton in the pod, for drying; horses,
mules, oxen, chickens and dogs seem to be the only
domestic animals; they have axes, hoes, shovels,
and harrows. The soil is so easily pulverized, as to
make the plow unnecesssry.
Busy preparations were made for the march
about noon next day, to encounter a jornada of
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
165
}
above forty miles, caused by a great bend of the
river with mountains. The rations were found to
have suffered great loss or wastage; of the beeves
many were in good order, and three of the oxen
were still left. A few exchanges for fatter animals.
were made, the pack saddles in excess of twelve to
a company, were disposed of. Eight mules, aban-
doned by the General, had been picked up by the
Maricopas, and were delivered to me.
The hospitality and generosity of these allied.
tribes is noted; they feed and assist in every way
travelers who are in need; fortunately, perhaps,
these have been few. I observed them parching
grain in a basket, by throwing in live coals and
keeping all in motion, by tossing into the air.
They have the simplicity of nature, and none of
the affected reserve and dignity characteristic of
other Indians, before whites. At the sound of a
trumpet, playing of a violin, the killing of a beef,
they rush to see and hear, with delight or astonish-
ment strongly exhibited.
About a half bushel of corn was procured for
each animal, and three days' rations of corn meal.
December 25th.-The march was up hill, and the
166
THE CONQUEST OF
road rather sandy. Half an hour before sundown,
having long seen Leroux's smoke, indicating he had
found grass, I pushed on to examine the ground
before dark; I stationed the sentinels so that the
mules could be turned loose in the mezquit, with-
out much danger of their escaping to seek water.
The wagons arrived at 8 o'clock, the march having
been eighteen miles. The weather has been quite
warm for several days, but fortunately, as there is
no water, it was cloudy this afternoon.
Next morning, with reveille at 4.30 o'clock, the
battalion could not be got in motion much before 7.
Some rough, difficult ground was found in the gap
of the ridge, which consumed much time. I then rode
ahead and reached the river about sunset. The
guides had preceded me, and following their path, (a
wrong one) I passed through a very uneven willow-
grown bottom of the river and found them taking their
ease at the water-edge, with some yellow, broken,
years-old grass near, which had been their attraction,
"the best the country afforded."
as
I selected a camp-ground, and marked it by lit-
tle fires, made by some packmen, who had arrived.
The wagons came about 7.30.
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
167
The river is here brackish; this is caused by
the Saline River, a larger stream than the Gila
above, which flows into it below the Maricopa
village. The day's march had been twenty-three
miles.
Here I relieved the train of three hundred mule
shoes, and the nails, by making a "cache;" which in
far western language, means burying valuables in the
ground, and noting by some permanent object, the
exact position.
For the next six days the marches averaged ten
miles. It was an unremitting struggle with the rude
barrenness of a rainless wilderness. Once, the
mule drove was sent four miles to some grass which
the guides had reported, but which was found to be
nearly worthless; Weaver said, it sprang up from a
shower which fell there four years ago, as he knew ;
(but the duration of a cycle of these phenomena un-
fortunately he could not determine.) The animals
existed on corn, doled by the pint, with now and
then flag grass, and willow bushes on the river mar-
gin and sand-bars. Many miles of road were beaten,
with much dust, in a clay formation, where mule
tracks were six inches deep; much sand was en-
168
THE CONQUEST OF
countered, and several volcanic bluffs, which re-
quired much labor to be made passable.
The second of these days, we met two travelers,
a Chilean and a California refugee; they gave very
confused information of a renewed state of war in
California, and of bodies of armed men, with droves
coming to Sonora. They had passed another small
party a few days before.
The same day Leroux and four other guides, and
Mr. Hall were sent forward, with dispatches; and
they were instructed to send back information of
any thing observed on the route, of importance to
the expedition. They were also ordered to bring
fresh mules and beeves to meet the battalion as
early as possible. One of them was required to be
at Warner's rancho, when the battalion should ar-
rive there, about "January 21st."
Fanuary 1st, 1847.-Cottonwood-bark and branch-
es, and mezquit, were added yesterday to the forage
list. Many of the animals, including sheep, have ap-
peared to be poisoned; a few have died, the others
appear to be gradually recovering.
Whenever there is a bed where the river some-
times flows, we find more or less grass; there is little
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
169
:
doubt that only want of rain prevents its growth
elsewhere; but the bottoms frequently show salty
efflorescences; also much of it seems of mere clay,
which I think will not produce vegetation.
We found in this night's camp a party described
by the Mexicans whom we met, including a lady who
was delivered of a fine child two days ago; and she
traveled yesterday ten miles on horseback. They
report the wells in the desert, of which the General
wrote, to be dried up-probably filled partly with
sand.
I am now preparing a boat of the two ponton
wagon-bodies lashed together, end to end, between
two dry cottonwood logs; in this I shall put all the
baggage I can risk. The river is rapid, and in places
three or four feet deep; and here it is one hundred and
fifty yards wide. I have determined to send Lieuten-
ant Stoneman in charge; he professes to have had.
similar experience, and is desirous to undertake it.
Fanuary 6th.-In five days but fifty-four miles of
progress has been made, and after much anxiety the
ponton boat, now first seen, has joined the battalion
empty! The experiment proved a failure, and the
stores have been landed in several places; but three
8
170
THE CONQUEST OF
or four inches of water was to be found on several
rapids.
Parties with pack mules have been out all the
time striving to meet the boat, and recover at least
the flour, from its load of two thousand five hun-
dred pounds of provisions and corn. And these
have not been heard from!
It was found necessary for our wagons to vary
much from General Kearny's trail; and a road was.
cut, in places, through miles of dense thickets, etc.
Next day only seven miles could be made; points
of stony ridges and clay gullies required much work.
The mules were ordered to be sent across the
river to browse in the young willows, flag-grass, etc.,
and it turned out they had to swim.
Fanuary 8th.-Sixteen miles took the battalion
to the mouth of the Gila.
"A vast bottom; the country about the two
rivers is a picture of desolation; nothing like vege-
tation beyond the alluvium of the two rivers; bleak
mountains, wild looking peaks, stony hills and
plains, fill the view. We are encamped in the
midst of wild hemp. The mules are in mezquit
thickets, with a little bunch grass, a half a mile off."
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
171
Fanuary 9th.—We marched very early.
The
wagons were six hours reaching the crossing of the
Colorado; about half of the road was bad, sand or
soft clay; the pioneers did much work. The mules
are weak, and their failing, or flagging to-day in
ten miles, is very unpromising for the hundred mile
stretch, dry and barren, before them. There is no
grass, and only scanty cottonwood boughs for them
to-night, but I sent out forty men to gather the
fruit, called tornia, of a variety of the mezquit. They
have gathered twelve or fifteen bushels, which has
been spread out to be eaten on a hard part of the
sand-bar.
Francisco was sent across the river to fire the
thickets beyond this to clear the way for the pio-
neer party in the morning. He says the river is
deeper than usual; it is wider than the Missouri,
and of the same muddy color. It is probable that
sugar-cane may be cultivated here.
It is said to be sixty miles to tide water, and
one hundred and sixty to the mouth of the river.
Fanuary 10th.-The mules were driven two
miles to grass; some of the pack mule party arrived
bringing four hundred and fifty pounds of flour; a
"
172
THE CONQUEST OF
....
part of them had been left, hunting for another de-
posit. The companies were ordered to cross with
their baggage, in the ponton boat, leaving empty
wagons, teamsters and mules; the ford inclining
down the river, was above a mile long and in two
channels.
The battalion continued crossing with great diffi-
culty all the night, the water in some places almost
too deep to use a pole. The sheep were now doing
better; lately a few had been left each day, and only
one hundred and thirty remained.
(C
Fanuary 11th, 9 p. m.—With my mind full of
anxiety, I force myself to the task of recording the
deeds of the day. I am in camp at the 'well,' fif-
teen miles from the river crossing; I resolved that
here the battalion should come to-day, and for these
reasons: I had not rations or time, under the prob-
able state of affairs in California, to spend another
day beyond the river; there was nothing for the
mules on this side, and as they must graze on that
side, and must pull the wagons over when they
came, there would be little less to do to-morrow
than to-day.
The first difficulty I encountered this morning
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
173
was, that instead of the boat being in readiness to
cross the sheep at five o'clock, as ordered, it was
not over until quarter past seven; then I had all
the baggage of the field and staff taken to it in
ten minutes, and crossed myself, taking in addition
ten of the men.
I was then told by the adjutant, that many
loads of company baggage had still to be brought
over; the round trips had averaged an hour and a
half, and on all sides their idea of the impossibility
of making the set day's journey was conveyed to
me. I ordered that the rest of the baggage should
come over in the wagons, the sheep only should be.
ferried; the remaining baggage was then loaded
accordingly; the mules had been driven in at day-
light, and I got the wagons started in the river at
eight o'clock. The river runs swiftly and is at
least four feet deep. About nine, I got to where
the battalion had encamped. Here in willow
bushes, which concealed everything, I found all in
confusion; tents standing, every man doing his own
pleasure, some eating, some cooking. Time was
flying fast.
I then saw a wagon, the only one of
Company C, standing half way across, with mules.
174
THE CONQUEST OF
taken out on a sand bar, and nothing apparently
doing. Half an hour later, its commander reported.
to me that they were stuck, etc., and could not get
out. I told him they were not trying, that they
had the same opportunities as the others, (the boat
had been used turn about,) that other wagons had
got over easily, and men in them against positive
orders; that I should march immediately, and
would not help him.
Meanwhile the boat came, half loaded with men
and baggage, and with less than a third of the sheep,
and instantly the crew disappeared.
I had almost
to force, personally, men into the boat to take it
back. They then spent half an hour in water deeper
than they could reach with their ten foot poles. So
bad seemed the chance of getting over more than an-
other load, that I sent word to Lieutenant Smith to
bring over the boat full of the best sheep, and the
others might be abandoned if they could not swim.
Quite a number of mules had fallen and been
drowned; the river had an inch of ice, where there
was no current. Then I forced off the battalion, at
10 o'clock, to march fifteen miles of bad road, leaving
a company in the river, and two-thirds of the sheep
1
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
175
on the other side. I knew these last were in good
hands, and that the company would be excited to
do their best. The first mile was ascending, and
through deep sand; the mules were torpid and
sullen. The prospect of getting to this camp was
almost desperate. I gave orders that private mules
should be put to the wagons; then, if necessary, to
leave a wagon on the road. Two were thus left. I
rode on and stopped all pack and loose animals at
a patch of mezquit, the tornia or fruit of which had
fallen to the ground, until all the wagons had passed.
The fire of the pioneer party raged around us.
I sent twenty men on, to collect mezquit beans or
tornia, believing the battalion would arrive after
dark; I knew there was no grass. I arrived at four
o'clock, and was met by a man who told me 'there
was not a drop of water.' The worse prospect for
sixty miles ahead, instantly rose to frighten me for
the three hundred and sixty nearly worn out foot-
men, who confide all to me.
I found the party digging most energetically, not
only at the old well, but they had commenced an-
other. Soon, in the first, they struck damp sand,
and so on, to water. When the quicksands were
* 176
THE CONQUEST OF
struck, they caved in so as to render it impossible to
get water more than two or three inches deep.
Many expedients were discussed; it was considered.
that our only hope was in a wash-tub belonging to
the wife of a captain. The new well progressed
The first wagon came at
slowly through hard clay.
sunset; at dusk the tub arrived. Lieutenant Oman
reported to me, to my astonishment, that they were
unwilling to give up that valuable article !-upon
which our lives seemed to depend. I had it taken.
The well then seemed for some time to work promis-
ingly. Then it failed. I had the tub taken up, and
the bottom, which had been bored, knocked out; then
it worked better. It was late however and anxious
expectants thronged the hole. I was seated in my
tent, consulting with the guides, when Lieutenant
Oman reported that the well had failed worse than
ever.
My doubts seemed converted to the certainty of
evil and disaster. I then learned that the company
I had left were camped six miles back; their team
having given out.
I sent for Weaver to inquire of the route, long
thought of, to follow the river some sixty miles
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA. ·
177
down; he so represented the country as to give
scarce a hope of its practicability under our circum-
stances. Once more I went to the well, and
ordered a fresh detail to be put on the new one:
they had found in ten feet only mud, and its upper
surface was two feet lower than the old one, which
was ten feet deep. I then with my mind full of
trouble, sat down to write. In half an hour, Lieut.
O. came and reported that in the new well, he had
{
come to water that could be dipped with a camp
kettle.' It was like a great light bursting upon
darkness and gloom.
I am writing with effort to suppress feeling.
This well failing, what had I to expect of the next,
which I knew to be dry now, and not, like this,
deriving its supply from a great river, and to be
only reached by going without water for a night
and two days, in addition to this hard day; and the
next hope of water almost three of our average
marches still further on; and behind, starvation and
failure.
But my faith had not failed, for, at the worst,
I gave orders for a beef to be slaughtered at day-
light, to be cooked before ten o'clock, and other
8*
178
THE CONQUEST OF
preparations for the night following without water.
The sheep were all got over.
Many mules gave out to-day, and at best the
prospect is bad; not only want of water, but so
very little for the poor animals to eat. I had
five bushels of tornia brought here by each com-
pany.
It is half past ten o'clock at night; I have
ordered Lieut. O. with twelve picked men to go
through to-morrow to the Alamo Mocho, to dig and
prepare for us.
Eighteen hours of unceasing labor has been my
lot to-day, with anxiety enough to turn one grey.
Our safety seems the accident of a pocket of clay-
which served as a wall-reaching below the level of
quicksand, which probably extends from the bed of
the river."
In the morning it took from 9 to 11.30 o'clock,
to water the mules of three companies; then the
march began, leaving the others to follow, when
their mules were well watered. A guide had
stopped at some scant straw colored "
grass," and
camp was made about sundown. It was a wilder-
ness of sand, mixed with gravel and small stones;
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
179
}
the only vegetable production a slim bush, which
the New Mexicans call "stinking wood."
The 13th, the march was commenced at sunrise;
it was a hot day, and some bad sand was encoun-
tered. It was thirteen miles to the wells, and the
battalion arrived at two o'clock. The advance
party had improved an old well, and dug another;
there was only mezquit without fruit. "Now after
eight hours, the watering is still going on; the poor
animals after drinking the impure warm water, seem
unsatisfied, and have to be driven away to the
bushes on which to browse."
Next day signal smokes were frequently seen;
believed to be made by Indians; a small party
would have seen enough of them. It was about
twenty-five miles to another old well, the Pozo
Hondo; and Lieutenant Stoneman with twenty-five
men and Weaver were sent early in the morning
to go through and prepare for the battalion.
The corporal and two men, who against instruc-
tions, remained seeking more flour, left by the boat,
had not yet come up; and two more men were miss-
ing since leaving the Colorado.
"I had lately a conversation with old Weaver,
:
180
THE CONQUEST OF
which was not official. He said, 'the Tontos live
in that range over there; I never see them with
more than one or two lodges together; they are a
band of the Coyoteros, and are called fools for their
ignorance. When I went over, once, from the Pimos
to the Cochanos and Mochabas, I met some lodges
and had a fuss with them.'-' What sort ?'-'Oh, we
killed two or three and burnt their lodges, and took
all the women and children and sold them.' 'What!'
'Yes, I have often caught the women and children
of the Digger Indians and sold them in New Mexico
and Sonora. They bring a hundred dollars. Mr.
of Tucson told me a squaw I sold him, ran off, and
was found dead, famished for water I s'pose, going
over from the Pimos to the Colorado.' 'What, have.
you no feeling for her death, trying to return to her
father and mother you tore her from?' 'I killed
her father and mother, as like as not; they stole all
our traps; as fast as we could stick a trap in the
river, they'd come and steal it, and shoot arrows into
our horses; they thought we would leave them for
them to eat, but we built a big fire and burnt them
up.''
This Alamo Mocho (broken cottonwood) well is
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
181
near the foot of a very steep bank, perhaps eighty
feet down to a remarkable depression of great ex-
tent and as wide as a great river; and most likely it
is the bed of one, or of a dried up creek of the Gulf.
The flat bottom is grown up with mezquit. (Two or
three years after this date, a stream suddenly broke
through, or made its appearance, much to the joy of
some travelers; it is called New River.)
Fanuary 14th.-The march began at II A. M: de-
tails had been at work the whole night, and up to
that hour, drawing the scant water for mules and
cattle; and it was found necessary to leave two
wagons.
Some bad sand was encountered this day; some-
times only a little, blown from sand hills, which
were skirted; then a great flat of baked clay, which
had evidently been covered by water, on which the
animals scarcely left a track. The battalion observed
the tracks of hundreds of mules and horses; herds
believed to have been driven within a few months to
Sonora. Sea shells, and salt, found on this great
plain, indicate that it was once the bottom of the
Gulf.
Having marched seventeen miles, the battalion
182
THE CONQUEST OF
came at dark to a mezquit thicket, and camped
There was no water.
Marching at sunrise, next day, seven miles over
the flat broken plain, brought them to the Pozo
Hondo. "The distant mountains to our left and
front were mingled with clouds; the rising sun paint-
ed all with bright and varied hues, and then we saw
the distinct colors of a rainbow.
which only
once before, have we seen, in the other desert of
Tucson."
Here were met fresh mules and some beeves, sent
under charge of one guide; twenty-two of fifty-seven
mules had been lost. There was great disappointment
in the well; the water was issued by the gill; it was
necessary to go on; a fat beef was killed and cooked;
and the work of catching with the lazo, and harness-
ing the new mules, many of which were as wild as
deer, and had to be thrown down, consumed the
whole delay of near three hours; one mule, after
being harnessed, broke away from three stout men,
and ran off at great speed into the desert, unfol-
lowed.
Here was heard the distressing news of a dis-
astrous engagement of General Kearny; of his
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
183
wounds, and of the death of valued and loved offi-
Captains Johnston
cers, and many other dragoons.
and Moore and Lieutenant Hammond had fallen.
Eleven more miles were marched, and halt was
then made until 2 o'clock A. M.; the mules were
kept tied, and some bunch grass was cut and fed to
them.
"Besides being nearly starved, our mules have
had no water since yesterday morning; the men
too, are without it; it is necessary to go on in the
cold night, speedily to end this terrible state of
things; the ten miles of much dreaded sand is before
us."
At 2 A. M., January 16th the march was resumed.
"I had a large advance guard and all the guides
on duty, telling Weaver not to lose sight of the
leading wagon; it was starlight. Four miles from
our bivouac I stopped until all had passed, and found
that even then a team or two had apparently given
out. I gave various orders of relief, transferred
mules, etc.; toward daylight it was exceedingly
cold, too much so to ride; then the guides got lost,
and, by their not obeying strictly my orders, the
wagons lost at least a mile; here the new teams
184
THE CONQUEST OF
seemed almost exhausted; two companies had lost.
harness and I managed to find some other for them.
I found the road was about to prove much longer
than I had been informed. About 10 o'clock in the
morning as usual, it became of summer heat. Fi-
nally, near eleven, I reached, with the foremost
wagon, the first water of the Cariza; a clear run-
ning stream gladdened the eyes, after the anxious.
dependence on muddy wells for five or six days.
One company, which met with an accident, was so
far delayed into the heat of the day, that the
mules entirely failed several miles off; a new team.
had to be sent, and the wagon came up at sunset.
I found the march to be nineteen miles; thus with-
out water for near three days, (for the working ani-
mals) and camping two nights, in succession, without
water, the battalion made in forty-eight hours, four
marches, of eighteen, eight, eleven and nineteen miles,
suffering from frost, and from summer heat. Con-
sidering this, it seems certain that the fifty-six miles
from Alamo Mocho, could have been made without
great loss in no other way;--the divisions of time for
rest, the stop only for a drink and refreshment of meat
in the heat of the day, and the cold night marches.
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
185
:
We contented ourselves to-day, with a breakfast
at I o'clock A. M. The sheep, I fear, are many miles
back. A ration of two and a half pounds of fat beef
was issued this evening.
The grass here is dry and salty. The loss of
mules appears to be sixteen in the two days; our
great help has been twenty-two of the General's old
mules, which were watered yesterday, 'to clean out
the well' before my arrival, (there was a wolf's car-
cass in it ;) but little more water rose after that. A
great many of my men are wholly without shoes,
and use every expedient, such as rawhide moccasins
and sandals, and even wrapping their feet in pieces
of woolen and cotton cloth."
Fanuary 17th.—Owing to stray mules, the march
was late; about mid-day the battalion reached Palm
Spring, where there is a clump of twenty or thirty
palm trees; but there being no grass, it was neces-
sary to go on, and the march was fifteen miles to a
place called Bajiocito, a wet swampy valley, with
willow bushes, bad rank grass and no fuel; the road
was up the dry bed of a mountain torrent, between
mountains, ash-colored and utterly barren. "That
this fifteen miles of very bad road was accomplished
186
THE CONQUEST OF
under the circumstances, by mules or men, is extra-
ordinary. The men arrived here completely worn
down; they staggered as they marched, as they
did yesterday. The sheep are not up, but near. It
is astonishing to consider what the wild young
mules performed and endured; driven thirty miles
to meet me, then next day, in its heat, to go
through the terrible process of being broken to har-
ness-two hours of the most violent struggles pos-
sible; then to draw wagons two marches, and thus
without food, to march the third day without
water."
Fanuary 18th.-Some of the men did not find
strength to reach camp before daylight this morning.
The sheep did not come up until after mid-day; there
are eighty-eight left. I went through the compa-
nies this morning; they were eating their last four
ounces of flour; of sugar and coffee, there has been.
none for some weeks. I have remaining only five
public wagons, there are three, private property.
The Indian Alcalde of San Phillipi, brought me
a letter, but three days old, from Commander Mont-
gomery of the Portsmouth, and governor of San
Diego; he writes that my party arrived on the 14th
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
187
instant, welcomes my approach, promises refresh-
ment, etc., for the battalion.
The Alcalde, and his interpreter, also a San
Phillipian Indian, are fine looking men, nearly naked,
hair long, and faces painted in red spots; their lan-
guage seems a bad one, somewhat resembling that
of the Apaches.
The men, who this morning were prostrate, worn
out, hungry, heartless, have recovered their spirits.
to-night, and are singing and playing the fiddle.
With confused information of hostilities, the
march was resumed the 19th, with more military
order, and with baggage in the rear. The guides
had reported a good firm road, with a rather narrow
cañon, etc. After marching three or four miles, up
hill, I came to advance guard pioneers and guides,
at a standstill. Weaver coolly remarked, “I believe
we are penned up;" there was a rugged ridge in
front, some two hundred feet high; I ordered him
to find a crossing, or I should send a company who
would soon do it. With much active work, I got
the wagons over in about an hour and a half. Then
up the dry bed of a mountain stream, I came to the
cañon and found it much worse than I had been led
188
THE CONQUEST OF
to expect; there were many rocks to surmount, but
the worst was the narrow pass. Setting the exam-
ple myself, there was much work done on it before
the wagons came; the rock was hewn with axes
to increase the opening. I thought it wide enough,
and going on, found a hill to be ascended, to avoid
a still narrower pass, with a great rock to be broken,
before it could be crossed. But when a trial was
made, at the first pass, it was found too narrow by a
foot of solid rock. More work was done, and sev-
eral trials made. The sun was now only an hour
high, and it was about seven miles to the first
water. I had a wagon taken to pieces, and carried
through.
Meanwhile, we still hewed and hammered at the
mountain side; but the best road tools had been.
lost in the boat experiment. The next wagon body
was lifted through, and then the running gear, by
lifting one side; then I rode on again, and saw a
wagon up the very steep hill, and down again to the
cañon. The work on the pass was perseveringly
continued, and the last two wagons were pulled
through by the mules, with loads undisturbed.
We had ascended the main ridge by sunset,
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
189
where a guide met me, and pointed to another a
mile or two in front, and said it was very bad, and
could only be passed by daylight.
As there was
unusually good grass, I camped; but there had
been no provision made for their unexpected pri-
vation of water.
After a very cold night, with very little fuel, the
march was next morning continued before sunrise;
the wagons were got over the second ridge, by the
help of ropes. A good descending road for seven.
miles then led to San Phillippi, which was found
to be a small deserted Indian village. The mules
were grazed, and two beeves killed for breakfast;
there was no other food. In the afternoon the bat-
talion ascended the pass of another low mountain
seven miles, and had water, but very scant grass for
a camp.
The battalion during the march was exer-
cised in a prairie, waiting for the wagons to come up.
The guide Charboneaux returned that day; the
Governor of San Diego detaining Leroux and Mr.
Hall, the road being very unsafe from hostile Cali-
fornians.
The battalion was under orders to march to San
Diego, and communication with General Kearny
190
THE CONQUEST OF
was now cut off. By the best information, the en-
emy were concentrated at Los Angeles. The Gen-
eral was marching on it from the south, and Lieu-
tenant-Colonel Fremont approaching from the north;
so that a direct march on Los Angeles from the
east was evidently the proper course; and espe-
cially so, as Captain Montgomery had written, Jan-
uary 15th, that it was generally believed that parties
of Californians, headed by leaders who had broken
their paroles, would endeavor to effect a retreat to
Sonora, rather than submit to our arms.
Also, the district to be thus passed through was
that of the most influential and most hostile natives,
and of numerous Indians, many of whom were said
to be employed, or forced into their ranks by the
enemy.
It was determined to take the direct road to Los
Angeles; and the guides were sent to Warner's, to
collect mules, etc.
One of the five missing adventurers after the
lost flour, came up to that camp reporting all safe,
but broken down at Bajiocito, with above four hun-
dred pounds of flour. Assistance was sent to them.
A captain reported that the two men who stopped
;
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
191
at the river and had joined the corporal, probably
misunderstood him, as giving them permission.
Such things happen among volunteers.
(C
January 21st.-A cold cloudy morning, threat-
ening snow. I found the path over the low moun-
tain pass smooth and not difficult; the path, now a
road, winds amid a forest of large evergreen oaks.
Cold as it was, the fresh deep green grass was
springing up every where from the ground. This
mountain divides the waters of the Colorado and the
Gulf from those which run west to the ocean. The
highest ridges are crowned with pine, and we saw
some snow among them. I descended rapidly to
the lower slopes, and there drilled my battalion
again, while the baggage closed up."
The battalion reached the rancho early, and
camped.
Mr. Warner's information, at this time, placed
the insurgents at or near Los Angeles, hard pressed
and likely to be encountered on the road, passing
here, to Sonora. It was found necessary to rest the
22d. (It is remarkable that the battalion arrived at
Warner's the day that the guides were instructed,
December 28th, to meet it there.) At this time.
192
THE CONQUEST OF
·
was commenced the issue of four pounds of fresh
meat a day, that being the only food.
‘Fanuary 22d.—A fine April morning, for Mis-
souri or Virginia; a frost however, and a cold night.
This is a beautiful little valley, shut in by moun-
tains or high hills on every side, the country is ver-
dant, some large cottonwoods are leafless, but the
mistletoe has lent them a green drapery.
"The name, Agua Caliente, comes from a bold
stream, issuing from rock fissures at the tempera-
ture of 170°; it now sends up little clouds of steam
for half a mile below. The valley, a mile long, is
elliptical, and its green smooth surface really oval;
at its centre stands a wonderful evergreen oak, its
boughs reaching a circle, five feet above the ground,
and ninety feet in diameter; the hot stream runs
round one side, à cold one around the other. The
Indians, of cold nights, select spots below the spring,
of agreeable temperature to sleep lying in the
stream, with the sod bank for a pillow."
There were a number of San Luis Indians at War-
ner's; they had brought here a short time before,
and killed ten or eleven Californians; but they had
lost thirty-eight of their tribe in the Temecala
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
193
valley, killed in an ambush by Californians, and
Indians of another tribe. They sought now to ac-
company the battalion to bury the bodies. This was
conceded, and Antonio, a chief, was engaged, with
ten of his men mounted, to serve as scouts and
guides, and to collect and drive cattle for the sub-
sistence of the battalion.
On the 23d of January, before marching, a talk
was held with Baupista, an important chief of Co-
huillos, a tribe of some two thousand Indians; and it
was a rather independent band of them, that, with
the Californians, defeated the San Luis tribe. He
was warmly counseled as to the folly of taking any
part against Americans, who would soon and forever
govern the country, etc., etc.
About eighteen miles were marched; the hills
were found very steep for a wagon road, and it
rained several hours in the afternoon.
The cor-
poral and party came up with the flour, at this camp.
He said he “did not dare to come up without it!"
The rain continued twenty-four hours; the bat-
talion had fallen upon the rainy season. All the
tents were blown down in the night; the ill-clad
battalion were drenched, and suffered much. A
9
194
THE CONQUEST OF
number of mules died, and many strayed, and An-
tonio was found very useful in recovering them. In
the afternoon, a warmer and less exposed camp was
found, only three or four miles on.
The morning of January 25th was very bright;
the battalion marched over the hills twelve miles
into the Temecala valley. The Indians there col-
lected before its arrival, to bury their dead, showed
in the distance such military array as to be mis-
taken for California enemies, and preparations for
a combat were made before the truth was made
known.
There an official dispatch was received, announ-
cing General Kearny's return to San Diego, and
showing that the battalion was expected there, as
originally ordered.
Accordingly, a cross road presenting itself, next
morning the march was directed toward the San Die-
go mission. The San Luis, a little river generally
dry, was found full of quicksand, and difficult to
pass.
After a seven hours' march, camp was estab-
lished in its beautiful valley, near a rancho.
It was
now found necessary to issue five pounds of beef as
a ration.
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
195
The 27th the road passed several ranchos, found
deserted; then near the important old mission of San
Luis Rey.
The road wound through smooth green
valleys, and over very lofty hills, equally smooth and
green. From the top of one of these hills, was
caught the first and a magnificent view of the great
ocean; and by rare chance perhaps, it was so calm
that it shone as a mirror.*
The day's march was sixteen miles. The pre-
vious night the herd of cattle had mostly escaped,
and orders were given for its increase while march-
ing; in consequence, the zealous irregulars drove to
this camp several hundred.
* The charming and startling effect, under our circumstances, of
this first view of the ocean could not be expressed; but in an old
diary,—once sunk and lost in a river-I find what follows:
"I caught my first sight of the ocean, as smooth as a mirror, and
reflecting the full blaze of the declining sun; from these sparkling
green hill-tops it seemed that the lower world had turned to impal-
pable dazzling light, while by contrast, the clear sky looked dim!
"We rode on into a valley which was near, but out of view of the
sea; its smooth sod was in sunlight and shade; a gentle brook
wound through it; the joyous lark, the gay blackbird, the musi-
cal bluebird, even the household wren, warbled together the even-
ing song; it seemed a sweet domestic scene which must have touched
the hearts of my rude, far wanderers. But coming to us so sud-
denly, there was a marvellous accompaniment ;-the fitful roar of
tide and surf upon a rock-bound shore; while now and then some
great roller burst upon the rocks with a booming thunder. It was
not a discord!"
}
196
THE CONQUEST OF
That night there was so much dew that the
tents seemed wet by a rain; there was also some
little frost.
Next day a march of seven and a half hours was
made to San Diegetto.
Fanuary 29th.-The battalion passed into the
Solidad Valley; and then, by cross roads. over
high hills, miry from rain, into a firm regular road,
and sixteen miles in all, to the mission of San
Diego.
The buildings being dilapidated, and in use by
some dirty Indians, I camped the battalion on the
flat below. There are around us extensive gardens.
and vineyards, wells and cisterns, more or less fallen
into decay and disorder; but also olive and pictur-
esque date trees flourishing and ornamental. There
is no fuel for miles around, and the dependence for
water is some rather distant pools in the sandy
San Diego, which runs (sometimes) down to the
ocean. The evening of this day of the march, I
rode down, by moonlight, and reported to the Gen-
eral in San Diego.
The battalion seemed to have deserved, and
cheered heartily the following order:
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
197
ORDERS NO. 1.
HEADQUARTERS Mormon Battalion.
Mission of San Diego, January 30, 1847.
The Lieutenant-Colonel commanding congratulates the bat-
talion on their safe arrival on the shore of the Pacific Ocean,
and the conclusion of their march of over two thousand miles.
History may be searched in vain for an equal march of in-
fantry. Half of it has been through a wilderness where nothing
but savages and wild beasts are found, or deserts where, for
want of water, there is no living creature.
no living creature. There, with almost
hopeless labor we have dug deep wells, which the future traveler
will enjoy.
Without a guide who had traversed them, we have
ventured into trackless table-lands where water was not found
for several marches. With crowbar and pick and axe in hand,
we have worked our way over mountains, which seemed to
defy aught save the wild goat, and hewed a passage through a
chasm of living rock more narrow than our wagons.
To bring
these first wagons to the Pacific, we have preserved the strength
of our mules by herding them over large tracts, which you have
laboriously guarded without loss. The garrison of four pre-
sidios of Sonora concentrated within the walls of Tucson, gave
us no pause. We drove them out, with their artillery, but our
intercourse with the citizens was unmarked by a single act of
injustice. Thus, marching half naked and half fed, and living
upon wild animals, we have discovered and made a road of
great value to our country.
Arrived at the first settlement of California, after a single
day's rest, you cheerfully turned off from the route to this point
of promised repose, to enter upon a campaign, and meet, as we
supposed, the approach of the enemy; and this too, without
even salt to season your sole subsistence of fiesh meat.
Lieutenant A. J. Smith and George Stoneman, of the First
Dragoons, have shared and given valuable aid in all these labors.
Soon,
Thus, volunteers, you have exhibited some high and essen-
tial qualities of veterans. But much remains undone.
you will turn your attention to the drill, to system and order, to
forms also, which are all necessary to the soldier."
By order, etc.
IV.
CALIFORNIA.
UPPER California was discovered by Cabrillo, a
Spanish navigator, A. D. 1548. It was first
colonized in 1768.
Presidios, or garrisoned forts, were established
at San Diego, first, at Santa Barbara, Monterey,
San Francisco; the form of all of them is nearly the
same; adobe walls twelve feet high, enclosing a
square of six hundred feet fronts, and including a
chapel and store houses; they were weak, but suffi-
cient for defence against wild Indians, whom they
called gentiles; the garrisons were of about eighty
horsemen, some auxiliaries, and small detachments
of artillery.
Missions of Franciscans accompanied, or imme-
diately followed them, at San Diego first; from
time to time above twenty more. There was one
near each presidio, walled like them. They included
handsome churches, some of stone, ample quarters,
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
199
work shops, store houses, granaries and courts.
They gradually extended their claims to territory,
and so came to include nearly the whole country.
The conversion of natives went hand in hand with
their instruction in agriculture and mechanical arts,
and the use of the Spanish language; they were the
laborers in the erection of those great structures.
Their villages, called rancherias, were near the
missions; they lived in thatched conical huts. Small
military detachments were quartered at the ranch-
erias to keep order. In 1822 the number of the
converts was estimated at twenty-two thousand,
besides gentiles settled near by.
There was some immigration from Mexico; the
soldiers generally brought wives, and thus the white
population was slowly increased. The white race,
living an active out-door life, in a most genial cli-
mate, was healthy and strong, and of extreme fecun-
dity; the presidial companies came to be composed
of them; but it was difficult for them to secure the
ownership of land, against the encroachments of the
powerful missions, which discouraged immigration,
and under an irregular and weak territorial gov-
ernment, the head of which was the commandante-
200
THE CONQUEST OF
general. Thus their state was not far above
savagery; there were no schools; a little wheat,
beans, etc., was raised by families; their diet was
chiefly fresh meat; even milk was seldom used, and
butter almost unknown. They were indolent although
active; almost lived on horseback, and were won-
derful riders; they and the Comanches more nearly
realizing the fabled centaurs than any people known
Horse-racing, gambling, and dancing were
their chief occupations. Still they had received
from the poor Indians the designation of people of
reason (jente de razon).
to us.
The cattle and horses introduced-the latter said
to be of Arabian breed-wonderfully increased on
the rich grasses in a most favorable climate. Up to
1826, horses which had become wholly wild, so over-
ran the land, that it was common for the men to
join together to drive them into great pens, pre-
pared for the purpose, and when thus confined,
after securing some of the finest animals, to slaugh-
ter the rest.
In 1816 a foreign trade in hides and tallow was
opened; an annual ship came from Boston; in 1822
near forty thousand hides and about the same
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
201
number of arrobas (twenty-five pounds) of tallow
were exported. Hides became known as California.
bank notes, of the value of two dollars.
The Spanish power in California was overthrown
by the Mexican revolution of 1822; and the policy
of the ever-changing governments of Mexico showed
itself constant in the secularization of the govern-
ment of California. The Missions began to decline
in wealth and power in 1824. The decree for the
expulsion of all native Spaniards was enforced on
their priests; and by 1836 the Fathers were finally
stripped of their possessions.
It was a sad change for the Indians, who were
strongly attached to their spiritual guides and gov-
ernors, and were happy and content under their
jurisdiction. The Missions gradually despoiled,-
the Californians taking an active part—under se-
cular administration, the proselytes became scat-
tered or subject to every oppression and cruelty,--
mere serfs.
But this wrong and devastation had compensa-
ting effects upon the people at large. The lands.
became divided, and came into individual ownership;
industry and enterprise were encouraged in those
202
THE CONQUEST OF
:
who were no longer dependent upon the bounty and
the will of priests.
In the spring of 1846 the white population of
California was, by estimate, no higher than ten thou-
sand; including about two thousand foreigners chief-
ly from the United States. These last beginning to
arrive so rapidly, their superior intelligence and ener-
had aroused the jealousy of prominent natives.
gy
The year before there had been (no uncommon
thing) a revolution headed by natives,-Castro, Al-
varado and Pio Pico, in which foreigners took part-
which resulted in the expulsion of General Michel-
torena, the Mexican governor.
General Castro assumed command of the military,
and soon after issued a proclamation, understood to
require all Americans to leave the country. But no
immediate measures were taken to enforce the
order, and it was disregarded by the immigrants.
In the winter of 1845-6, Brevet Captain Fre-
mont, topographical engineers, under favor of a rov-
ing commission of explorations, by extraordinary
coincidence, made his appearance at the head of
sixty or seventy well armed adventurers, in govern-
ment pay, among the northern settlements; and he
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
203
obtained permission from Castro to remain, for the
purpose of refreshing his men and horses. Rumors
of a change and of an intended attack by Castro,
reached him; whereupon he fortified himself in the
mountains which overlook Monterey. But after
remaining a few days, he determined, early in the
month of March, to proceed to Oregon, and before.
the middle of May he had reached Lake Klamath in
Oregon.
Suddenly he was overtaken in that mountain
wilderness by a messenger from Washington city.
It was Lieutenant Gillespie, of the United States
Marine Corps. Captain Fremont turned with his
"surveying" party to retrace his journey.
This remarkable occurrence has its explanation.
Senator Thomas H. Benton with the foresight of a
statesman, aspiring to be, if not actually, the control-
ling influence of President Polk's administration, was
tempted by paternal ambition to anticipate legal war,
and used his influence to have sent, long before its oc-
currence, a messenger to California, where, he must
have had reason to believe, Captain Fremont would
be found; he bore a communication to Fremont urg-
ing, of course, his great opportunity as the head of
.
204
THE CONQUEST OF
seventy veteran woodsmen and the hardy immigrants.
in Northern California to forestal the war and revo-
lutionize the country, or, at the least, to be present
and ready to reap the first fruits of the war.*
* Lieu-
tenant Gillespie, an officer of fine address, who spoke
perfectly the language of Mexico, was selected and
sent through that country, then the speediest route.
Arrived at Monterey, with a dispatch for our consul
there-probably to require his assistance-he found
that Captain Fremont, seemingly with no taste for
the commotions already begun, and the threatened
attack of Castro, had abandoned to the Mexican rev-
olutionist the field of a great opportunity. Then
Gillespie's true mission was developed, and he pro-
ceeded at great risks to follow his trail, until he over-
took him and delivered instructions which he could
not fail to heed.
About the 1st of June the lieutenant
lieutenant com-
manding the Mexican garrison of Sonoma was
ordered to remove a drove of government horses
from the mission of San Rafael to Santa Clara, Gen-
eral Castro's headquarters. To accomplish this, the
Early in the war Colonel Benton was nearly successful in an
intrigue to be appointed a Lieutenant-General, to supersede Win-
field Scott.
4
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
205
officer and small party crossed the Sacramento at
Sutter's Fort, New Helvetia, the nearest point at
which the horses could swim the river. An Indian,
having seen the movement, reported among the
American settlers that two or three hundred armed
men were advancing up the Sacramento Valley.
The alarm was spread through the valley by
swift messengers; and most of the immigrants.
joined Captain Fremont, who by this time was
sixty or seventy miles above Sutter's Fort.
The truth with regard to the lieutenant's party.
was soon known, with the addition, true or not, that
the object of the slight affair was to mount a force
to march against the Americans.
After consultation it was resolved that the Cali-
fornia party should be pursued, as the capture of
the horses would weaken Castro, and for a time
frustrate his designs. Twelve men volunteered and
chose a Mr. Merritt for their leader. They followed
and surprised the party June the 10th, when it sur-
rendered, without resistance, the horses and their
arms. They were given each a horse to ride, and
were released. The "Bear" revolution was now
fairly begun, and the only safety lay in its vigorous.
206
THE CONQUEST OF
prosecution. The same party, increased to above
thirty, marched directly upon Sonoma, and on June
14th, took possession without resistance of the
town and military post; they found there nine
pieces of artillery and two hundred stand of small
arms. Several officers of high rank were captured,
but with much consideration and politeness on both
sides, General Vallejo, one of them, sent for his
caballada and remounted the whole party. Private
property was scrupulously respected.
A small garrison was left in Sonoma, and was
soon increased to forty men under command of
William B. Ide.
June 18th, his garrison assenting, Mr. Ide, filled
with the spirit of '76, and infected by the grandil-
oquent style of the people of the land which they
wished to adopt as their own, issued a proclamation;
General Castro had issued two, the day before.
A proclamation to all persons and citizens of the district.
of Sonoma, requesting them to remain at peace, and follow their
rightful occupations without fear of molestation.
The Commander-in-chief of the troops assembled at the
fortress of Sonoma, gives his inviolable pledge to all persons in
California, not found under arms, that they shall not be dis-
turbed in their persons, their property, or social relations, one
with another, by men under his command.
He also solemnly declares his object to be, to defend him-
self and companions in arms, who were invited to this country
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
207
by a promise of lands on which to settle themselves and fami-
lies; who were also promised a Republican government; when
having arrived in California, they were denied the privilege of
buying or renting lands of their friends; who, instead of being
allowed to participate in, or being protected by a Republican
government, were oppressed by a military despotism; who
were even threatened by proclamation, by the chief officers of
the aforesaid despotism, with extermination if they should not
depart out of the country, leaving all their property, arms, and
beasts of burden; and thus deprived of their means of flight or
defence, we were to be driven through deserts inhabited by
hostile Indians, to certain destruction.
To overthrow a government which has seized upon the
property of the Missions for its individual aggrandizement;
which has ruined and shamefully oppressed the laboring peo-
ple of California, by their enormous exactions on goods im-
ported into the country,-is the determined purpose of the
brave men who are associated under my command.
I also solemnly declare my object, in the second place, to
be to invite all peaceable and good citizens of California, who
are friendly to the maintenance of good order and equal
rights, and I do hereby invite them to repair to my camp at So-
noma, without delay, to assist in establishing and perpetuating
a Republican Government, which shall secure to all, civil and
religious liberty; which shall encourage virtue and literature ;
which shall leave unshackled by fetters, agriculture, commerce,
and manufactures.
I further declare that I rely upon the rectitude of our in-
tentions, the favor of Heaven, and the bravery of those who are
bound and associated with me, by the principles of self-preser-
vation, by the love of truth, and the hatred of tyranny, for my
hopes of success.
I furthermore declare, that I believe that a government to
be prosperous and happy, must originate with a people who are
friendly to its existence; that the citizens are its guardians, the
officers its servants, its glory its reward.
(Signed)
Headquarters, Sonoma, June 18th, 1846.
WILLIAM B. IDE.
208
THE CONQUEST OF
General Castro's two short proclamations, issued
practically at the same time, were moderate for a
Mexican, and should be considered in any view of
the merits of the situation.
The citizen Jose Castro, lieutenant-colonel of cavalry in
the Mexican army, and acting general-commander of the de-
partment of California.
Fellow Citizens:-The contemptible policy of the agents of
the United States of North America, in this department, has in-
duced a portion of adventurers, who, regardless of the rights of
men, have daringly commenced an invasion, possessing them-
selves of the town of Sonoma, taking by surprise at that place,
the military commander of that border, Colonel Don Mariano
Guadalupe Vallejo, Lieut.-colonel Don Victor Prudon, Captain
Don Salvador Valléjo, and Mr. Jacob P. Leese.
Fellow Countrymen :-The defence of our liberty, the true
religion which our fathers possessed, and our independence, calls
upon us to sacrifice ourselves, rather than lose these inestimable
blessings; banish from your hearts all petty resentments, turn
you, and behold yourselves, these families, these innocent little
ones, which have unfortunately fallen into the hands of our ene-
mies, dragged from the bosoms of their fathers, who are pris-
oners among foreigners, and are calling upon us to succor them.
There is still time for us to rise "en masse as irresistible as
retributive. You need not doubt but Divine Providence will
direct us in the way to glory. You should not vacillate be-
cause of the smallness of the garrison of the general headquar-
ters, for he who first will sacrifice himself will be your friend and
fellow citizen.
JOSE CASTRO.
Headquarters, Santa Clara, June 17th, 1846.
,,
Citizen Jose Castro, lieutenant-colonel of artillery in the
Mexican army, and acting general-commander of the depart-
ment of Upper California.
!
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
209
All foreigners residing among us, occupied with their busi-
ness, may rest assured of the protection of all the authorities of
the department, while they refrain entirely from all revolution-
ary movements.
The general commandancia under my charge will never pro-
ceed with rigor against any persons, neither will its authority rẹ-
sult in mere words, wanting proof to support it; declaration shall
be taken, proofs executed, and the liberty and rights of the
laborious, which is ever commendable, shall be protected.
Let the fortune of war take its chance with those ungrateful
men, who, with arms in their hands, have attacked the coun-
try, without recollecting they were treated by the undersigned
with all the indulgence of which he is so characteristic. The
inhabitants of the department are witnesses to the truth of
this. I have nothing to fear, my duty leads me to death or vic-
tory. I am a Mexican soldier, and I will be free and indepen-
dent, or I will gladly die for these inestimable blessings.
Headquarters, Santa Clara, June 17th, 1846.
JOSE CASTRO.
About this time, two young men, T. Corvie and
Fowler, were captured in the neighborhood of Sono-
ma by one Padilla. They were taken to his camp,
and, a day or two after, were cruelly tortured to
death.*
Their disappearance was soon known, and their
murder suspected; and the commander of Sonoma
hearing of several prisoners in Padilla's camp, sent
Captain Ford and twenty-one men to attack him, at
his supposed position at Santa Rosa plains. Arrived
* "What I saw in California," by E. Bryant, afterward captain of
Fremont's battalion, and Alcalde of San Francisco.
210
THE CONQUEST OF
there, it was found that Captain De la Torre had
joined Padilla with seventy men, and that they had
gone in the direction of San Rafael. Marching all
night, Ford, having ridden sixty miles, surprised the
enemy, taking breakfast, twelve miles from San
Rafael; they were in a house about sixty yards
from a clump of brushwood. Dismounting there,
Captain Ford, ordering that not a shot should be
wasted, advanced upon the house. After a short
resistance, a sergeant and party charging upon the
Americans, the Californians took to flight, leaving
eight killed and two wounded. They rallied on a
hill, about a mile off; but showing no disposition to
return, Captain Ford exchanged his tired horses for
fresh ones, found there in a corral, and rode back to
Sonoma.
66
Captain Fremont, having heard that Don Jose
Castro was crossing the bay with two hundred men,
marched and joined the garrison of Sonoma, on the
25th of June. Several days were spent in active
pursuit of the party under Captain De la Torre, but
they succeeded in crossing the bay before they
could be overtaken. With the retreat of De la
+
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
211
Torre ended all opposition on the north side of the
Bay of San Francisco."*
Captain Fremont, then, with about one hundred
and seventy men, returned to the mouth of the
American River near Sutter's Fort.
A small party under R. Semple was ordered to
cross the Bay, to the town of San Francisco, then
called Yerba Buena, to seize the captain of the
port, R. T. Ridley; which was done, and Ridley
was taken to New Helvetia, (Sutter's Fort,) July
8th; there other prisoners were in confinement.
Commodore Sloat, in the United States Frigate
Savannah, arrived at Monterey on the second of
July; he had heard of a collision in arms upon the
Rio Grande, but not of the declaration of Congress
that war existed. But on the 7th, he determined to
hoist the American flag in Monterey, and it was done
by Captain Mervine with two hundred and fifty sea-
men and marines, amid cheers of troops and for-
eigners, and with a salute from each of the ships in
the harbor. At the same time a proclamation was
read, and posted in the town, both in English and
Spanish.
* "What I saw in California.” p. 293.
2
212
THE CONQUEST OF
In it he announced that the two nations being
actually at war, he should carry the flag throughout
California; he came as the best friend of the inhab-
itants as "henceforth California will be a portion of
the United States." Judges and alcaldes were
invited to continue to execute the functions of their
offices and supplies and provisions should be
promptly paid for at fair rates. Under instructions.
from Commodore Sloat, Captain Montgomery, of
the Portsmouth, which lay at San Francisco, landed
seventy sailors and marines and hoisted the United
States flag in the public square; and a volunteer
company of Americans was immediately organized
for the defence of the town. On the 10th, a na-
tional flag was sent by Captain Montgomery to
Sonoma; the Bear flag was lowered, and the
American flag was raised amid the shouts of the
garrison.
Purser Fauntleroy, of the Savannah at Monterey,
had been ordered to organize a mounted company,
from the ships and citizens, in order to keep up com-
munication with the northern posts held by immi-
grants; it marched July 17th, to take possession of
the Mission of San Juan, about thirty miles east of
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
213
Monterey.
Captain Fremont, having left his posi
tion on the Sacramento River on the 12th, arrived at
San Juan about an hour before him, and occupied
the Mission without opposition. Nine pieces of
cannon, two hundred old muskets and a store of
ammunition were found there. Both parties marched
to Monterey next day.
At every important point in northern California
the American flag was now flying.
Fortifications at Monterey were begun immedi-
ately after its occupation. Commodore R. F. Stock-
ton arrived there July 15th, in the frigate Congress,
and on the 23d Commodore Sloat sailed in the Le-
vant for Panama.
General Castro retreating, had joined Governor
Pio Pico at Santa Barbara, when the joint for-
ces numbered about six hundred; they then
marched for Los Angeles and arrived there early in
August.
•
Immediately after taking command, Commodore
Stockton sailed in the Congress, July 25th, for San
Pedro, the port of Los Angeles, and at the same time
sent the Cyane, Captain Dupont, with Captain Fre-
mont and volunteers on board, to San Diego. The
214
THE CONQUEST OF
frigate Savannah remained at Monterey, and the
sloop Portsmouth at San Francisco.
Arrived at San Pedro, twenty-five miles south of
Los Angeles, Commodore Stockton landed a large
force of sailors and marines from the Congress, and
marched for Los Angeles, his artillery being dragged
by oxen. At his approach to the camp of the Cal-
ifornians, close to the town, they fled without
resistance; and the capital was occupied without
opposition on the 12th of August. The Californians
dispersed, and General Castro with a few followers
took the road to Sonora.
Captain Fremont had previously been landed at
San Diego, about one hundred and forty miles south
of Los Angeles, and met with difficulty in procuring
horses; he marched to Los Angeles with eighty men,
and arrived several days after Castro's flight."
X
Commodore Stockton, on the 17th of August,
issued a proclamation as "Commander-in-chief, and
Governor of California." It announced that the
Territory of California now belongs to the United
States," and the people were "requested to meet in
their several towns and departments, at such time
* What I saw in California, p. 297.
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
215
and place as they may see fit, to elect civil officers
to fill the places of those who decline to continue
in office, and to administer the laws according to
the former usages of the territory."
Thorough protection in "liberty of conscience,'
persons and property was promised.
"The California battalion of mounted riflemen
will be kept in the service of the territory, and con-
stantly on duty, to prevent and punish any aggres-
sions by the Indians, or any other persons, upon the
property of individuals, or the peace of the terri-
tory: and California hereafter shall be so governed
and defended as to give security to the inhabitants,
and to defy the power of Mexico.
"All persons are required, as long as the terri-
tory is under martial law, to be in their houses from
ten o'clock at night until sunrise in the morning."
On the 22d he issued a proclamation for the
election of alcaldes to take place September 22d,
and soon after another without date, announcing a
territorial form of government.
In an official letter, dated August 27th, to "Ma-
jor Fremont, California battalion," he authorized
him to increase the battalion to three hundred men,
216
THE CONQUEST OF
་
and to garrison the five principal towns, and in-
formed him that before he left the territory, it was
his intention to appoint him "governor, and Cap-
tain Gillespie the secretary thereof.”
Captain Gillespie was left in command at Los
Angeles; fifty men had been ordered to constitute
the garrison.
On the 27th of September, about a month later,
the frigate Congress, Captain Livingston, bearing
the broad pennant of Commodore Stockton, and
the frigate Savannah, Captain Mervine, anchored
in the harbor of San Francisco, having sailed from
Monterey a day or two before.
October 1st, a courier arrived from the south
with news of an insurrection of the Californians,
which occurred September 23d at Los Angeles, and
of the capture by them of an American merchant-
vessel lying at San Pedro. The Savannah immedi-
ately sailed for San Pedro.
At this time there were in the harbor of San
Francisco, vessels of many nations, and among them
a ship of the French navy, and a Russian brig from
Sitka, commanded by a naval officer, and laden with
wheat.
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
217
Commodore Stockton having given two days' ·
notice, landed October 5th, being received with a
great parade, naval, marine and civil, with music
and speeches; rode out to the mission of San Fran-
cisca Dolores, to a collation at the house of Captain
Leidesdorff,—at which he spoke an hour-returning
to a ball in town that night.
Major Fremont, who had returned to the north to
recruit his battalion, having arrived from the Sacra-
mento with his volunteers, on the 12th, the next day
Commodore Stockton in the Congress, and Fremont's
one hundred and eighty volunteers in a transport,
sailed for the south--San Pedro or San Diego, it
was understood.
Meantime Captain Mervine, having arrived at
San Pedro, landed about four hundred of the sailors
and marines of the Savannah, and marched for Los
Angeles; being met on the Mesa by a large force of
insurgents, he was defeated, losing six men killed,
and retreated to his ship. Captain Gillespie sur-
rendered Los Angeles. Santa Barbara was belea-
guered, but Lieutenant Talbot, with his garrison of
twenty-five men, forced his way out, and after suffer-
ing many hardships, reached Monterey in safety.
IO
218
THE CONQUEST OF
Commodore Stockton had now one hundred and
eighty volunteers added to the force with which he
had before captured Los Angeles; but doubtless
hearing of Captain Mervine's defeat, entered the
harbor of Monterey about the 24th of October, after
being about twelve days at sea, and landed Major Fre-
mont and his volunteers in order that the battalion
should be recruited, and organized on a larger scale.
From this time until January, 1847, when Gen-
eral Kearny had arrived, the Californians were in little
disturbed possession of the country, save the three
ports,--San Francisco, Monterey and San Diego.
Major Fremont was taking measures to collect
volunteers, and to mount the battalion, in order to
march to the south. November 15th, Mr. T. O.
Larkin, U. S. Consul at Monterey, was captured
and maltreated by a large force of Californians, about
twenty miles north of that town; who also the same
day attacked a party of Americans who were driving
four hundred horses to Major Fremont's camp at
Monterey, killing and wounding six of the party;
but eight others took refuge in a grove, and de-
fended themselves for an hour, against one hundred
and thirty Californians; when, being joined by a
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
219
party of fifty immigrant volunteers, the insurgents
gradually drew off.
However, they still kept rallying, and firing now
and then a musket at the Americans, until eleven
o'clock at night, when "one of the Walla-Walla
Indians offered his services to come into Monterey
and give Colonel Fremont notice of what was
passing. Soon after he started he was pursued by a
party of the enemy. The foremost in pursuit drove
a lance at the Indian, who, trying to parry it, received
the lance through his hand; he immediately, with
the other hand, seized his tomahawk, and struck a
blow at his opponent, which split his head from the
crown to the mouth. By this time the others had
come up, and with the most extraordinary dexterity
and bravery, the Indian vanquished two more, and
the rest ran away.
He rode on towards this town
as far as his horse was able to carry him, and came in
on foot."*
Major Fremont marched from Monterey as soon
as he heard of this skirmish, but did not meet with
the Californians; he then camped at the Mission of
* "Californian" newspaper, Monterey, Nov. 21st.
220
THE CONQUEST OF
San Juan, waiting the arrival of volunteers from the
north.
He marched ten miles south, Nov. 28th, and
in camp there the reorganization of the battalion
was completed. It consisted of four hundred and
twenty-eight men, including a few Indians, and was
divided into eight companies of mounted men, with
three officers to each; officers and privates were
armed with rifle and holster pistols; besides a bowie
knife and in some cases a brace of pistols in waist
belts. Attached were two pieces of artillery, under
command of Louis McLane and John K. Wilson,
both of the navy.
Besides mules for packing baggage, five or six
hundred horses, for remounts, were driven with the
battalion.
The battalion marched ten miles November 30th;
finding no cattle in the vicinity of the camp, a party
was sent back to the Mission, who returned with one
hundred head. These were driven for future use.
There was much rain, and the grass was young
and tender; these causes together produced con-
stant failure and exhaustion in the horses. The
march was resumed December 3d; and eleven days
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
221
averaged eleven miles a day.
Other rations ex-
hausted, the battalion consumed an average of ten
pounds a day of fat beef. *
The Mission San Miguel, on the heads of the
Salinas River, was passed December 10th. "Under
the administration of the padres it was a wealthy
establishment, and manufactures of various kinds
were carried on. They raised immense numbers of
sheep, the fleeces of which were manufactured by
the Indians into blankets and coarse cloths. Their
granaries were filled with an abundance of maize
and frijoles, and their store rooms with other neces-
saries of life from the ranchos belonging to the
mission lands in the vicinity.
Now all the build-
principal range of
ings, except the church and
houses contiguous, have fallen into ruins, and an
Englishman, his wife and one child, with two or
three Indian servants, are the sole inhabitants. The
church is the largest I have seen in the country, and
its interior is in good repair. . . The Englishman
professes to have purchased the mission and all the
lands belonging to it for $300."
"December 12th.-To relieve our horses, which
What I saw in California."
10*
222
THE CONQUEST OF
:
are constantly giving out, the entire battalion were
ordered to march on foot, turning their horses with
the saddles and bridles upon them, into the general
caballada, to be driven along by the horse guard.
An Indian, said to be the servant of Tortorio Pico,
was captured here by the advance party. A letter
was found upon him, but its contents I never
learned."
December 13th.-" Mr. Stanley, one of the volun-
teers, and one of the gentlemen who so kindly sup-
plied us with provisions on Mary's River, died last
night. He was buried this morning, and the
ashes of a braver or a better man will never repose
in the lonely hills of California.”
•
•
After the funeral the battalion was marched a
short distance to witness another scene. The
Indian captured at the rancho yesterday was con-
demned to die. He was tied to a tree. Here he
stood some fifteen or twenty minutes, until the
Indians from a neighboring rancheria could be
brought to witness the execution. A file of soldiers
was then ordered to fire upon him. He fell upon
his knees and remained in that position several min-
utes without uttering a groan, and then sank upon
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
223
the earth. No human being could have met his
fate with more composure, or with stronger mani-
festations of courage. It was a scene such as I
desire never to witness again.*
Next day the battalion reached the mission of
San Luis Obispo, and remained there two rainy
days.
A party was sent, and captured Tortorio Pico, a
conspicuous revolutionist. On the 16th he was
brought before a court martial, and tried for forfeit-
ure of parole and sentenced to death.
December 17th.-"While standing in one of the
corridors this morning, a procession of females passed
by me, headed by a lady of fine appearance and
dressed with remarkable taste and neatness, com-
pared with those who followed her. Their rebosos
concealed the faces of most of them, except the
leader, whose beautiful features, I dare say, she
thought (and justly) required no concealment.
They proceeded to the quarters of Colonel Fremont
and their object. was to petition for the
pardon of Pico . . . whose execution was expected
to take place this morning. Their intercession was
*
What I saw in California."
224
THE CONQUEST OF
:
successful, as no execution took place, and in a short
time all the prisoners were discharged.'
"X
December 24th, the battalion ascended the St.
Inez Mountains, and there camped. There, they
overlooked the beautiful plain of Santa Barbara.
"With the spy glass, we could see in the plain far
below us, herds of cattle quietly grazing upon the
green herbage which carpets its gentle undulations.
The plain is dotted with groves, surrounding the
springs and belting the small water-courses, of
which there were many flowing from this range of
mountains. Ranchos are scattered far up and down
the plain, but not one human being could be seen
stirring. About ten or twelve miles to the south,
the white towers of the Mission Santa Barbara raise
themselves. Beyond is the illimitable waste of
waters." On the mountain the shrubbery was in
bloom.
+
But next day, Christmas, came a great rain
storm, and the three miles of descent was scarcely
Being an officer of the battalion, Mr. Bryant makes no com-
ment upon the different fates of the principal, and his ignorant tool,
the brave Indian, who had no beautiful friend. And yet irrespec-
tive of the question of the criminality of the Indian, would it not be
impossible to discover any sanction or human authority for his trial
"What I saw in California.”
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
225
accomplished, even in the night following; the
cannon and some baggage were left,—to be sent for
next day, —and about one hundred horses lost their
lives (the loss in the month had been about seven
hundred).
December 27th, they camped a half mile from
Santa Barbara. About a hundred miles to the
south the final battles were impending; they were
fought about two weeks later. Californians visited
the camp, and the prize schooner Julia came into
port, and landed a piece of artillery for the bat-
talion. But the battalion lay at Santa Barbara
a week.
New Years day was celebrated by the Indians of
the mission and town by a procession, music, etc.
They marched through the streets of the deserted.
town to the tune of Yankee Doodle.
The weather for that week was the April of the
Middle Atlantic States; the thermometer ranged
from fifty to seventy degrees.
The battalion marched ten miles January 3d,
1847. Next night, after a march of six miles they
for a capital offence, and his execution by this "battalion" of volun-
teers, who did not have a single commission or legal appointment
among them?
1-
10*
226
THE CONQUEST OF
camped on the beach in the Rincon, where they
apprehended opposition; but the Julia lay in sight
to cover the passage; and on the 5th they reached
the mission of San Buenaventure, and camped at
two o'clock. Soon after a small party of Californians
were seen on a hill; the battalion was called to arms,
the cannon were fired, and "they scampered away
like a flock of antelopes."
Only a few Indians were found at the mission ;
the white population had abandoned it at the ap-
proach of the battalion.
January 6th, having marched six or seven miles,
a party of sixty or seventy mounted Californians
showed themselves in front; a Delaware and a Cal-
ifornia Indian in advance beckoned and shouted to
the battalion to come on, but in vain; it was turned
into, and followed far, a cañon, until it was imprac-
ticable for the artillery to follow; it had to retrace its
*
ascent; the Californians were prancing and waving
banners and arms; but the two brave Indians rode
towards them, and exchanged some shots, when the
Californians soon disappeared.
The battalion went
into camp.
*"What I saw in California."
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
227
This California detachment, having accomplished
their probable object, no doubt returned to take
part in the battles of January 8th and 9th.
Next day the battalion again marched but seven
miles.
On the 8th, twelve miles were marched; horses
and men had lately fared well; forage, beans and
vegetables having become plentiful. Besides the
regular guard, one-fourth of the battalion were kept
under arms during the night.
Next morning early, Captain Hamley arrived in
camp with dispatches from Commodore Stockton:
he had landed at Santa Barbara, and followed
the battalion. The battalion marched twelve
miles.
On the 10th, a few Californians, supposed to be
the same who had stopped the march on the 6th,
showed themselves, having had time to return from
the battles of the Mesa of Los Angeles. The bat-
talion camped, having marched ten miles.
On the 11th of January it took quarters at the
mission of San Fernando, at I o'clock P. M.
There were found thousands of bushels of corn,
noble gardens, roses in bloom, oranges, lemons, figs,
228
THE CONQUEST OF
olives in full bearing, large herds of cattle and sheep
grazing on the luxuriant plain.
Having followed, to its last ominous pause, the
slow* march of this battalion, (which had little or no
effect upon the enemy or the war, and resulted in un-
precedented official demoralization, but fortunately
in no other serious injury to the public service) let
them be left in such good quarters, while the reader
turns to trace the fortunes,-until they culminate in
peace and order to California-of that veteran and
proved public servant, General Kearny. He was
left deceived as to the subjugation of California, and
entering, with only an escort, the unknown moun-
tains of the Gila River.
GENERAL KEARNY'S MARCH TO THE PACIFIC.
General Kearny was left turning westward from
the Rio Grande, October 15th, 1846; among his
staff were Captain H. S. Turner, First Dragoons,
Lieutenant W. H. Emory, Topographical Engineers,
and Captain A. R. Johnston, First Dragoons A. D.
C.; his escort was 100 men of First Dragoons com-
manded by Captain Ben. Moore and Lieutenant T.
C. Hammond, and mounted on mules; also two
* Three hundred and fifty miles in forty-three days.
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
229
mountain howitzers in charge of Lieut. J. W. David-
son, First Dragoons. The baggage was packed on
mules.
They first passed over high plains, intersected
by several bold streams; their richness and admira-
ble fitness for grazing are extolled. On the 18th
they reached the old copper mines on the second
branch of the Mimbres. "They are said to be very
rich, both in copper and gold, and the specimens
obtained maintain this assertion. We learn that
those who worked them made their fortunes; but
the Apaches did not like their proximity, and one
day turned out and destroyed the mining town,
driving off the inhabitants. There are remains of
twenty or thirty adobe houses, and ten or fifteen
shafts sinking into the earth.” *
October 19th. The country passed over in the
first part of the day was beautiful; it was a succes-
sion of high, rolling hills.
Thirteen miles from the copper mines. was
passed the sulphur spring of San Lucia, in a beauti-
ful valley, and that night camp was made after dark
on Night Creek, the mire of which was very disturb-
* "Notes of a military reconnoissance, by Lieutenant-Colonel W.
H. Emory."
230
THE CONQUEST OF
ing under the circumstances. Here had been ap-
pointed a meeting with Apaches, for the purpose of
trade for mules. They came early, headed by Red
Sleeve. He said "the road was opened forever, one
white man could pass in safety." The trade was a
failure, the Indians being extravagant in their
demands. "At length the call of boots and sad-
dles' was sounded. The order, quickness and qui-
etude of our movements seemed to impress them.
One of the chiefs, after eying the General with
great apparent admiration, broke out in a vehement
manner, 'you have taken New Mexico, and will
sóon take California, go then and take Chihuahua,
Durango and Sonora. We will help you. You
fight for land, we care nothing for land; we fight
for the laws of Montezuma and for food. The Mex-
icans are rascals, we hate and will kill them all.'
There burst out the smothered fire of three hun-
dred years! Finding we were more indifferent than
they supposed to trade, . . .
. . they became at once
eager for traffic. . . My packs were made. One
of the gentlest mules at that moment took fright,
and went off like a rocket, on the back trail, scat-
tering to the right and left all who opposed him. A
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
231
large, elegant looking woman, mounted a-straddle,
more valiant than the rest, faced the brute and
charged upon him at full speed. This turned his
course back to camp, and I rewarded her with half-
a dozen biscuits, and through her intervention, suc-
ceeded in trading two broken-down mules for two
good ones, giving two yards of scarlet cloth in the
bargain. By this time a large number of Indians
had collected about us, all differently dressed, and
some in the most fantastical style. The Mexican
dress and saddles predominated, showing where
they had chiefly made up their wardrobe. One had
a jacket made of a Henry Clay flag, which aroused
unpleasant sensations, for the acquisition no doubt
cost one of our countrymen his life. Several wore
beautiful helmets, decked with black feathers, which
with the short shirt, waist belt, bare legs and bus-
kins, gave them the look of pictures of antique Gre-
cian warriors. Most were furnished with the Mexi-
can cartridge box.
"These men have no fixed homes. Their houses
are of twigs, made easily and deserted with indiffer-
ence. They hover around the beautiful hills that
overhang the Del Norte, between the 31st and 32d.
ť
232
THE CONQUEST OF
•
parallels of latitude, and look down upon the states
of Chihuahua and Sonora, and woe to the luckless.
company that ventures out unguarded by a strong
force. Their hills are covered with luxuriant grama,
which enables them to keep their horses in fine
order, so that they can always pursue with rapidity
and return in safety.
We wended our way
through the narrow valley of Night Creek. On each
side were huge stone buttes shooting up into the
skies. At one place we were compelled to mount
one of these spurs, almost perpendicular . a
pack slipped from a mule, and although not shaped.
favorably for the purpose, rolled entirely to the bot-
tom of the hill, up which the mules had climbed.”*
October 21st was a bad day, the steep ascents
and descents causing the packs to cut the animals'
backs; the howitzers did not reach camp; one of
them, in the dark, with its mule, rolled down into
a steep ravine, but without injury.
October 23d, they passed one of the famous
ruins; but the only evidences of handicraft remain-
ing were immense quantities of broken pottery, ex-
tending for two miles along the river.
* Notes of a Military Reconnoissance.
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
233
Deer and beaver, the blue quail, teal, etc., were
found on the Upper Gila.
October 25th." We were now in the regions
made famous in olden times, by the fables of Friar
Marcos, and eagerly did we ascend every mound,
expecting to see in the distance what I fear is but
the fabulous 'Casa Montezuma.' Once, as we
turned a sharp hill, the bold outline of a castle pre-
sented itself, with the tops of the walls horizontal,
the corners vertical, and apparently one front bas-
tioned. My companion agreed with me that at
last we beheld this famous building; restless for
the show, I drew out my telescope, when to my dis-
appointment a clay butte, with regular horizontal
seams, stood in the place of our castle; but to the
naked eye the delusion was complete. The Indians
here do not know the name Aztec; Montezuma is
the outward point in their chronology,--a name at
this moment as familiar to every Indian, Pueblo,
Apache and Navajo, as that of our Savior or Wash-
ington is to us. In the person of Montezuma they
unite both qualities of divinity and patriot.
"We passed to-day the ruins of two more villages
similar to those of yesterday. The foundation of
234
THE CONQUEST OF
the largest house seen yesterday was sixty by twenty
feet; to-day, forty by thirty; the stone forming the
supposed foundations was round and unhewn; and
some cedar logs were also found about the houses,
much decayed, bearing no mark of an edged tool." *
A cactus, first seen there, but common further
south, was well described as "eighteen inches high,
and eighteen inches in its greatest diameter, con-
taining twenty vertical volutes, armed with strong
spines." They contain much water.
The next day was very severe upon the party;
they were eight and a half hours passing over a rough
mountain, several thousand feet above the river;
they named it "Devil's turnpike;" twelve or fifteen
mules were lost. Opposite this day's journey, three
small rivers enter the Gila, through cañons; they are
called the Black, the Blue, and the St. Charles. The
howitzers got to camp in the afternoon of the next
day. (These weigh only two hundred pounds; the
wheels are three feet apart, and about three feet four
inches in diameter.)
Next day, soon clear of the mountain, there
was a march of twenty miles along the Gila valley,
*Notes of a Military Reconnoisance.
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
235
and the night camp was opposite Mount Graham.
Along almost the whole distance were found the
remains of houses such as before mentioned; traces
of circular enclosures of four hundred yards in
diameter; the foundations of houses from twenty to
one hundred feet front; but no marks of edged tools,
no utensils except the remains of pottery of immense
amount, and the rude corn-grinder used by the
Indians of to-day. "I do not think it improbable
that these ruins may be those of comparatively mod-
ern Indians, for Vanegas says, 'The Father, Jacob
Sedelmayer, in October, 1744, set out from his mis-
sion, (Tubutuma) and, after travelling eighty leagues,
reached the Gila, where he found six thousand
Papagos, and near the same number of Pimos and
Maricopas; and the map which he gives of this
country, although very incorrect, represents many
Indian settlements and missions on the river. His
observations, however, were confined to that part of
the Gila River near its mouth."*
October 29th, they marched twenty-one miles in
the Gila bottom grounds; the whole plain, from three
to six miles wide, within reach of irrigation; and
*Notes of a Military Reconnoissance.
236
THE CONQUEST OF
the scarce and crisp vegetation and plenteous pottery
"The
indicated that irrigation must have been used.
crimson tinted Sierra Carlos skirted the river on the
north side the whole day, and its changing profiles
formed subjects of study and amusement. Some-
times we could trace a Gothic steeple; then a horse;
now an old woman's face, and again a veritable
steamboat; but this required the assistance of a
light smoky cloud, drifting to the east, over what
represented the chimney stack.”
Near this camp were very large ruins, judged to
have been the abode of five or ten thousand souls.
Next day a drove of the Mexican wild hogs,
(peccary) found also in Texas, was chased, but with-
out success. Several Indians appeared on a hill;
they were spoken to "but they could not be induced
to come into camp; they have been dealt with by
Americans in the employment of Chihuahua; who
have hunted them at fifty dollars a scalp, as we
would hunt wolves; and one American decoyed
a large number of their brethren in rear of a wag-
on to trade, and fired a field-piece among them. It is
no wonder then, that two parties of God's creatures,
who never knew each other before, should meet in a
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
237
desert, and not approach near enough to shake
hands."*
October 31st, after a short march camp was
made opposite the mouth of the San Francisco
River. Carson with a party went on to explore, as
in coming from California he was sixty miles without.
water, cut off from the river by impassable cañons.
The mules were fast failing; and the appearance of
three well mounted Apaches on a hill was very wel-
The Apaches could supply them. They
would only suffer themselves to be approached by
one person; after a long parley by signs and ges-
tures they announced that their chief was near with
mules which he would bring in ; but none came.
come.
Next day there was no alternative, the jornada
must be begun; when the river could no longer be
followed, they grazed the animals a short time on
luxurious grama, filled every possible vessel with
water, and commenced the ascent; but, seven miles
up the hills, converging trails were observed, and
they led to a fine spring, with cottonwood trees
and some poor grass; there they camped, but the
howitzers did not arrive.
* Journal of Captain A. R. Johnston, First Dragoons.
238
THE CONQUEST OF
*
"That morning was first seen the Cereus giganteus,
called in California pitahaya; it is a columnar cactus,
from twenty-five to sixty feet high: some of them
have no branch. Next morning, when ready for a
very early start, an alarm was given, and a hill near
by was seen to be lined with horsemen. They were
Apaches; one called out in Spanish, that they
wished to have a talk; 'one of you put down his
rifle and come to us.' Londeau, my employé, im-
mediately complied; I followed; but before march-
ing half way up the steep hill, the Indian espied in
my jacket the handle of a large horse pistol. He
told me I must put down my pistol before he would
meet me. I threw it aside and proceeded to the top
of the hill, where, although he was mounted and
surrounded by six or eight of his own men, armed
with rifles and arrows, he received me with great
agitation. The talk was long and tedious. I ex-
hausted every argument to induce him to come into
camp. His principal fear seemed to be the howit-
zers, which recalled at once to my mind the story I
had heard of the massacre by Johnson. At last a
bold young fellow, tired of the parley, threw down
his rifle, and with a step which Forrest in Metamora
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
239
might have envied, strode off towards camp, piloted
by Carson. We were about to follow, when the
chief informed us it would be more agreeable to him.
if we remained until his warrior returned.
"The ice was now broken, most of them seeing
that their comrade encountered no danger, followed
one by one. They said they belonged to the tribe.
of Piñon Lanos; that 'they were simple in head, but
true of heart.' Presents were distributed; they
promised a guide to a spring six miles distant, over
the mountain, where they engaged to meet us next
day with one hundred mules." *
They accordingly followed the guide to a good
camp in a grove of sycamore, with a little water
there rising, and sinking within one hundred
yards.
November 3d, the General was again disap-
pointed; the Indians came, but only seven mules
were obtained in the whole day.
"Our visitors to-day presented the same motley
group we have always found the Apaches. Among
them was a middle-aged woman, whose garrulity
and interference in every trade was the annoyance
* Notes of a Military Reconnoissance.
240
THE CONQUEST OF
of Major Swords, who had charge of the trading,
but the amusement of the bystanders.
She had on a gauze-like dress, trimmed with
the richest and most costly Brussels lace, pillaged,
no doubt, from some fandango-going belle of So-
nora; she straddled a fine grey horse, and when-
ever her blanket dropped from her shoulders, her
tawny form could be seen through the transparent
gauze. After she had sold her mule, she was
anxious to sell her horse, and careered about to
show his qualities. At one time she charged at full
speed up a steep hill. In this, the fastenings of her
dress broke and her bare back was exposed to the
crowd, who ungallantly raised a shout of laughter.
Nothing daunted, she wheeled short round, with
surprising dexterity, and seeing the mischief done,
coolly slipped the dress from her arms and tucked.
it between her seat and the saddle. In this state
of nudity, she rode through camp, until at last,
attaining the object of her ambition, a soldier's red
flannel shirt, she bade her adieu in
her adieu in that new
costume.
A boy about twelve years of age, of uncommon
beauty, was among our visitors. Happy, cheerful,
•
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
241
and contented, he was consulted in every trade, and
seemed an idol with the Apaches. It required
little penetration to trace his origin from the same
land as the gauze of the old woman. We tried to
purchase him, but he said it was long, long, since he
was captured, and that he had no desire to leave
his master, who, he was certain, would not sell him
for any money. All attempts were vain, and the
lad seemed gratified both at the offer to purchase,
and the refusal to sell."*
Next day they reached the Gila in about twenty-
five miles; they passed several hollows among the
hills, where were observed sycamore, oak, willow,
cherry, mezquit, senna, cactus, agave, hackberry, ash,
walnut, zola, cedar, pine, black gum and grape vines.
They crossed large fresh trails of cattle, driven from
Sonora.
The camp was so bad, that, although the howit-
zers had not arrived on the 5th, the march was con-
tinued some ten miles. Passing the foot of Saddle
Mountain, the bed of a dry stream was followed to
the San Pedro River, which was crossed and camp
was made a mile from its mouth. Its valley was
*Notes of a Military Reconnoissance.
IT
242
THE CONQUEST OF
wide and covered with a dense growth of mezquit,
cottonwood and willow; but the stream was found
very narrow and only a foot deep,-smaller than one
hundred miles above.
It
The bed of the dry stream they had followed,
was the road of the Apache raiding parties; it was
"deeply cut and turned at sharp angles, forming a
zigzag like the bayoux laid by sappers in approach-
ing a fortress, each turn of which, (and they were
innumerable) formed a strong defensive position.
The Apache once in possession of them is secure
from pursuit or invasion from the Mexican."
was a highway leading from the plains of Santa
Anna, Santa Cruz and Tucson, and distinctly
marked by a fresh trail of horses, cattle and mules.
"Nature had done her utmost to favor a condition
of things which has enabled a savage and uncivil-
ized tribe, armed with the bow and lance, to hold as
tributary powers three fertile and once flourishing
states, Chihuahua, Sonora, and Durango, peopled
by a Christian race, countrymen of the immortal
Cortez."
A day was passed in this camp, on the San Pedro,
to wait for the howitzers, and to recruit the mules.
+
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
243
The miserable plight of these last gave serious
doubt of the success of the expedition. They were
five hundred miles from any white settlement, and
with a probable dependence upon their animals for
subsistence, as well as transportation.
"In the sandy arroyas
that look as if they
had been formed but a year or two since, was broken
pottery, and the remains of a large building, similar
in form, substance and apparent antiquity, to those
so often described;
back to the States
my thoughts went
and I was struck most
forcibly with the fact that not one object in the
whole view, animal, vegetable, or mineral, had any-
thing in common with the products of any State in
the Union, with the single exception of the cotton-
wood.
The only animals seen, were lizards,
scorpions and tarantulas."
On the 7th they advanced seventeen miles in
the wide bottom of the Gila. There were many
geese, blue quail and turkeys; signs of deer, beaver,
and the musk hog. Three Indians were seen, and
induced to enter the camp; after feasting heartily,
they departed with a promise to bring mules; but
meeting the howitzers, they were so filled with
244
THE CONQUEST OF
astonishment, that they followed the guns to camp
in mute wonder.
The next day was through a cañon of the Gila;
and there was much obstruction from sand, and
dense growth of willow. "Our course was traversed
by a seam of yellowish colored igneous rock, shoot-
ing up into irregular spires and turrets, one or two
thousand feet in height. It ran at right angles to
the river, and extended to the north, and to the
south, in a chain of mountains as far as the eye
could reach. One of these towers was capped with a
substance many hundred feet thick, disposed in hor-
izontal strata of different colors, from deep red to
bright yellow.
"At night for the first time since leaving Pawnee
Fork, I was interrupted for a moment in my observa-
tions, by moisture on the glass of my horizontal
shade, showing a degree of humidity in the atmos-
phere not before existing. . The effect of the
night's dampness was felt in the morning, for, although
the thermometer was only thirty-seven degrees, the
cold was more sensible than in the dry regions at
twenty-five degrees."*
*"Notes of a Military Reconnoissance."
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
245
In leaving the mountains, where the grass was a
set-off for rugged obstacles, the want of it became a
serious danger. On the 9th, they fell upon fresh
trails of horses, which they supposed might be those
of General Castro, who, Carson had informed them,
was to go to Sonora,—of which the settlements were
not distant-for recruits, and to return.
CASA DE MONTEZUMA.
November 10th.-"The valley on the southern.
side of the Gila still grows wider. About the time
of the noon halt, a large pile, which seemed the
work of human hands, was seen to the left. It was
the remains of a three story mud house, sixty feet
square, pierced for doors and windows. The walls
four feet thick, and formed by layers of mud two
feet thick; it was no doubt built by the same race
that had once thickly peopled this territory, and
left behind the ruins.
"The charred ends of the cedar joists were still
in the wall. I examined them, and found they had
not been cut with a steel instrument; the joists were.
round`sticks; there were four entrances the doors
about four feet by two-the rooms had the same ar-
246
THE CONQUEST OF
rangement on each story; there was no sign of a fire-
place in the building; the walls had been smoothed
outside and plastered inside, and the surface still
remained firm, although it was evident they had
been exposed to great heat from the fire. There
were the remains of the walls of four buildings, and
the piles of earth showing where many others had
been. A few yards further was a terrace one hun-
dred yards by seventy, upon this was a pyramid.
about eight feet high, and twenty-five yards square
at top. From this, sitting on my horse, I could
overlook the vast plain, on the left bank of the Gila;
the ground in view was about fifteen miles, all of
which, it would seem, had been irrigated by the waters.
of the Gila. I picked up a broken crystal of quartz in
one of these piles. Leaving the 'casa,' I turned to-
wards the Pimos, and travelling at random over the
plain, now covered with mezquit, the piles of earth and
pottery showed for hours in every direction. I also
found the remains of a zequia, which followed the
range of houses for miles. It had been very large.
When I got to camp, I found them on good grass
and in communication with the Pimos, who came
out with a frank welcome. Their answer to Carson,
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
247
when he went up and asked for provisions, was
'bread is to eat, not to sell, take what you want.'
The General asked a Pimo who made the house I
had seen.
'It is the Casa de Montezuma;' said he,
'It was built by the son of the most beautiful
woman, who once dwelt in yon mountain; she was
fair, and all the handsome men came to court her,
but in vain; when they came they paid tribute, and
out of this small store she fed all the people in times
of famine, and it did not diminish. At last as she lay
asleep, a drop of rain fell upon her navel, and she
became pregnant, and brought forth a boy who was
the builder of all these houses.' He seemed un-
willing to talk about them, but said there were
many more of them to the north, south-west, etc.;
he said this casa had been burnt too long ago
for any of them to remember.” *
I venture an opinion which ardent archæologists
may scout, that we need only look to the not very
remote ancestry of the tribes now found in Zuñi,
Acoma, etc., and the Pueblos of New Mexico,-as
Pecos and San Domingo,-for the architects and
inhabiters of all these ruins and remains.
* Journal of Captain A. R. Johnston, First Dragoons, A. D. C.
248
THE CONQUEST OF
The General obtained of the Pimos a sufficiency
of corn and wheat and beans, but only two or three
bullocks, and no mules or horses. They had only
steers for tillage, procured from the Mexicans.
"To us it was a rare sight to be thrown in the
midst of a large nation of what are termed wild Indi-
ans, surpassing many of the Christian nations in
agriculture, little behind them in the useful arts, and
immeasurably before them in honesty and virtue.
During the whole of yesterday, our camp was full
of men, women, and children, who sauntered among
our packs, unwatched, and not a single instance of
theft was reported."
The Maricopas, some on foot, but mostly on
horseback, came at full speed to their lower camp;
unarmed and in the most confident manner, bringing
watermelons, meal, pinole and salt,—this last taken
from the plains. A pair of spectacles was a cause
of much amusement; the women had an idea that
the wearer could see through their cotton blankets,
but at length a pair being put upon an old woman,
she became acquainted with their use, and ex-
plained it to the others.
* "Notes of a Military Reconnoissance."
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
249
November 14th and 15th, the General made the
jornada of forty-three miles across the bend of the
Gila, losing six or eight mules from exhaustion and
want of water. They halted then a day, and found
the remains of a zequia and much broken pottery.
It was probably the work of the Maricopas, who are
known to have moved gradually up from the Gulf.
November 22d.—“ Most of the men were on foot,
and a small party composed chiefly of the General
and staff, were a long way ahead of the straggling
column, when, as we approached the end of our
day's journey, every man was straightened in his
saddle by our suddenly falling on a camp, which from
the trail, we estimated at one thousand men, who
must have left that morning. Speculation was rife,
but we all soon settled down upon the opinion that
it was General Castro and his troops; that he had
succeeded in recruiting an army in Sonora, and was
now on his return to California. Carson expressed
his belief that he must be only ten miles below, at
the crossing. Our force consisted of only one hun-
dred and ten men. The General decided we were
too few to be attacked, and must be the aggressive
party, and if Castro's camp could be found, that he
II*
250
THE CONQUEST OF
would attack it the moment night set in, and beat
them before it was light enough to discover our
force.
"The position of our camp was decided, as usual,
with reference to the grass. The lives of our ani-
mals were nearly as important as our own."*
A party was sent at dark, and it succeeded in
capturing four Mexicans. It turned out that the
alarm had been caused by a few soldiers and others,
and their drove of five hundred horses from Califor-
nia, for the use of Castro in Sonora. The four men,
examined separately, told each a different story.
One of them, tall and venerable in appearance,
reported himself to be the poor employé of a rich
man supplying the Sonora market with horses. It
was afterwards ascertained that he was a colonel of
the Mexican army.
The General remained there next day, attempt-
ing to remount his escort from the captured horses.
And then a courier with a mail from California fell
into his hands; he bore letters to General Castro
and other men of note in Sonora, and thus Kearny
was informed of the counter revolution in California.
* "Notes of a Military Reconnoissance."
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
251
Captain Flores was named as the general and
governor pro tem., and the enthusiasm of the
people was described as overflowing in the cause of
emancipation from the Yankee yoke. One letter
gave a minute and detailed account of a victory
stated to have been obtained over the Americans.
It stated that four hundred and fifty men landed at
San Pedro, and were met, defeated, and driven back
to the fort at San Pedro.
We also learned
that the horses captured were in part for General
Castro. Nothing more was wanting to legitimize.
our capture, and Captain Moore was directed to
remount his men."*
The Mexicans were very dexterous in evading
inquiries; one of them, an acquaintance of Carson,
was well plied with brandy; but the most that
could be extorted from him, was the advice not to
march directly upon Los Angeles.
"The captured horses were all wild and but
little adapted for immediate service; but there was
rare sport in catching them, and we saw for the first
time the lazo thrown with inimitable skill.
It is a
saying in Chihuahua that a Californian can throw
* "Notes of a Military Reconnoissance."
252
THE CONQUEST OF
the lazo as well with his foot as the Mexican can
with his hand,' and the scene before us gave us an
idea of its truth. There was a wild stallion of great
beauty which defied the fleetest horse and the most
expert rider.
At length a boy of fourteen, a Cali-
fornian, whose graceful riding was a constant subject
of admiration, piqued by repeated failures, mounted
a fresh horse, and followed by an Indian, launched
fiercely at the stallion.
His lariat darted from his hand with the force
and precision of a rifle ball, and rested on the neck
of the fugitive; the Indian, at the same moment,
made a successful throw, but the stallion was too
full
speed, with
stout for both, and dashed off at
both ropes flying in the air like wings.
representation of Pegasus, he took a
The perfect
sweep, and
followed by his pursuers, came thundering down the
dry bed of the river.
The lazos were now trailing on
gallant young Spaniard, taking
the ground, and the
advantage of the circumstance, stooped from his
flying horse and caught one in his hand. It was the
work of a moment to make it fast to the pommel of
his saddle, and by a short turn of his own horse, he
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
253
threw the stallion a complete somersault, and the
game was secure.”*
November 25th, the river was forded at the
same place, ten miles below the Gila's mouth, that
the Mormon battalion passed forty-six days later,
some of the horses swimming when its crooked
course was lost; they camped fifteen miles below,
at the first well, where only the men got water.
Next day they reached the Alamo Mocho well,
twenty-four miles, at 4 P. M.; they had much work
to deepen the well before water was reached; an
old champagne basket, first, and then a basket work
of willow twigs, was used to prevent caving sand.
The evening and night were spent in watering the
animals, which had made two marches without
drinking.
The following morning they marched very early,
and in forty miles reached at 8 o'clock P. M. a salt
lake, of which contradictory accounts had been.
received; it was found surrounded by a thick quag-
mire, and the water wholly unfit for any use.
After a few hours' rest, the animals browsing at a
few mezquit trees, they marched on in the dark, but
* "Notes of a Military Reconnoissance."
254
THE CONQUEST OF
were favored after sunrise, by a heavy fog for two
hours, which proved refreshing; but "the stoutest
animals now began to stagger, and when day
dawned scarcely a man was seen mounted." At
noon the Cariza was reached.
November 29, the grass being bad, and rations.
nearly exhausted, the march was continued at a
"snail's pace," and that night a horse was killed for
food, which was eaten with great appetite, and all
of it consumed. They were compelled to remain in
camp next day.
December 2d, the General arrived at Warner's
rancho, and learned "that the Mexicans were still
in the possession of the whole country except San
Diego, San Francisco, and Monterey; that we were
near the heart of the enemy's stronghold, whence
he drew his supplies of men, cattle, and horses, and
that we were now in possession of the great pass to
Sonora, by which he expected to retreat if defeated,
to send his prisoners if successful, and to communi-
cate with Mexico.
"To appease hunger, however, was the first
consideration. Seven of my men ate at one single
meal, a fat full grown sheep."
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
255
"his
A Mr. Stokes, who lived fifteen miles on the
road to San Diego, was sent for and came;
dress was a black velvet English hunting coat, a
pair of black velvet trowsers, cut off at the knees
and open on the outside to the hip, beneath which
were drawers of spotless white; his leggings were of
black buckskin, and his heels armed with spurs six
inches long. Above the whole bloomed the merry
face of Mr Stokes, the Englishman. He was very
frank, proclaimed himself a neutral, but gave all the
information he possessed, which was, that Commo-
dore Stockton was in possession of San Diego, and
that all the country between that place and Santa
Barbara was in possession of the country people;
he stated he was going to San Diego the next
morning. The General gave him a letter for that
place."*
Information was received that there was a band
of horses and mules fifteen miles on the road to Los
Angeles, belonging to General Flores. Lieutenant
Davidson and fifteen men, accompanied by Carson,
were sent at nightfall to capture them. The party
returned successful next day, December 3d, at noon;
* "Notes of a Military Reconnoissance."
1
256
THE CONQUEST OF
but the animals were found to be mostly unbroken,
and so, little serviceable.
December 4th.-The General marched in a rain
which lasted all day; he camped at Mr. Stokes'
place, in the valley of the San Isabel River, which
was formerly a mission.
Next day they marched to the rancheria of Santa
Maria; where it was learned that the enemy was in
force, nine miles distant; it was after dark, but there.
being no grass, they went two miles further and
camped in a cañon. On the way they met Cap-
tain Gillespie, Lieutenant Beale, and Midshipman
Duncan of the navy, with a party of thirty-five men,
sent from San Diego with a dispatch for General
Kearny.
The following is from the General's official
report:-
Having learned from Captain Gillespie, of the volunteers,
that there was an armed party of Californians at San Pascual,
three leagues distant, . . . I sent Lieutenant Hammond, First
Dragoons, with a few men to make a reconnoissance of them.
He returned at two in the morning of the 6th instant, reporting
that he had found the party in the place mentioned, and that
he had been seen, though not pursued by them. I then deter-
mined that I would march for, and attack them by break of
day; arrangements were accordingly made for the purpose.
My aid-de-camp, Captain Johnston, First Dragoons, was as-
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
257
signed to the command of the advanced guard of twelve
dragoons mounted on the best horses we had; then followed
about fifty dragoons under Captain Moore, mounted, but, with
few exceptions, on the tired mules they had ridden from Santa
Fè, ten hundred and fifty miles; then about twenty volunteers
of Captain Gibson's company under his command and that of
Captain Gillespie; then followed our two mountain howitzers
with dragoons to manage them, and under the command of
Lieutenant Davidson of the regiment. . . As the day, December
6th, dawned, we approached the enemy at San Pascual, who
was already in the saddle, when Captain Johnston made a fu-
rious charge upon them with his advanced guard, and was in
a short time after supported by the dragoons, soon after which
the enemy gave way, having kept up from the beginning a con-
tinual fire upon us. Upon the retreat of the enemy, Captain
Moore led off rapidly in pursuit, accompanied by the dragoons
mounted on horses, and was followed, though slowly, by the oth-
ers on their tired mules. The enemy, well mounted and among
the best horsemen in the world, after retreating about half a mile,
and seeing an interval between Captain Moore with his advance
and the dragoons coming to his support, rallied their whole
force, charged with their lances, and on account of their greatly-
superior numbers, but few of us in front remained untouched ;*
for five minutes they held the ground from us, when our men
coming up, we again drove them, and they fled from the field
not to return to it, which we occupied and encamped upon.
A most melancholy duty now remains for me; it is to report.
the death of my aid-de-camp, Captain Johnston, who was shot
dead at the commencement of the action; of Captain Moore,
who was lanced just previous to the final retreat of the enemy;
and of Lieutenant Hammond, also lanced, who survived but a
few hours. We also had killed, two sergeants, two corporals,
and ten privates of the first dragoons; one private of the vol-
unteers, and one engaged in the topographical department.
*Their number was thirty-eight; all of whom save two, were
killed or wounded.
258
THE CONQUEST OF
Among the wounded are myself, (in two places) Lieutenant
Warner, topographical engineers, (in three places,) Captain
Gillespie and Captain Gibson, of the volunteers, (the former in
three places,) one sergeant, bugler and nine privates of the dra-
goons; many of them receiving from two to ten lance wounds,
most of them when unhorsed and incapable of resistance. Our
howitzers were not brought into the action, but coming to the
front at the close of it, before they were turned so as to admit
of being fired upon the retreating enemy, the two mules before
one of them got alarmed and freeing themselves from their dri-
vers ran off among the enemy and were thus lost to us. The
enemy proved to be a party of about one hundred and sixty
Californians, under Andreas Pico, brother of the late governor."
Thanks are returned for their gallantry, particu-
larly to Captain Turner, first dragoons, A. A. A. G.,
and to Lieutenant Emory. The General's wounds
were so serious, that during the day Captain Turner
was in command; the ground was so rough with
rocks and cacti, that it was difficult to find a smooth
place even for the wounded. The dead were buried
that night, as secretly as possible, for fear of the dis-
turbance and robbery of the bodies, "with no other.
accompaniment than the howlings of myriads of
wolves."
Early in the day messengers had been sent, by a
circuitous route, to San Diego, thirty-nine miles dis-
tant, for wheel carriages for the use of the wounded.
"Our provisions were exhausted, our horses dead,
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
259
our mules on their last legs, and our men, now re-
duced to one-third of their number, were ragged,
worn down by fatigue, and emaciated." *
The General's report continues:-
"On the morning of the 7th, having made ambulancse
for our wounded
we proceeded on our march, when
the enemy showed himself, occupying the hills in our front,
which they left as we approached, till reaching San Bernardo a
party of them took possession of a hill near to it and maintained
their position until attacked by our advance, who quickly drove
them from it, killing and wounding five of their number with no
loss on our part."
The captured hill was kept possession of; the
cattle had been lost in this attack.
December 8th, water was bored for, and the fattest
of the mules was killed for meat. That day, under a
flag of truce, one of the messengers to San Diego
captured on his return, was exchanged. It was un-
derstood that these messengers brought back a writ-
ten refusal of aid; certainly no aid came; the ex-
changed man stated he had hid a dispatch at a certain
tree pointed out; but the dispatch could not, after-
ward, be found. It was twenty-nine miles to San
Diego. It was impossible to remove the wounded
until they could ride, in the presence of such superior
numbers, and that night Lieutenant Beale, of the
* “Notes of a Military Reconnoissance."
260
THE CONQUEST OF
Navy,* Carson, and an Indian, volunteered and went
to San Diego; it was a dangerous undertaking, as the
enemy occupied all the roads. That day "the brave
Sergeant Cox," who had died of his wounds, was
buried.
Two more days passed without aid for this crip-
pled, encumbered band,—surrounded by an increas-
ing horde of enemies. December 10th,
December 10th, "The enemy
attacked our camp, driving before them a band of
wild horses, with which they hoped to produce a
stampede. Our men behaved with admirable cool-
ness, turning off the wild animals dexterously. Two
or three of the fattest were killed in the charge, and
formed, in the shape of a gravy-soup, an agreeable sub-
stitute for the poor steaks of our worn down brutes,
on which we had been feeding for a number of days.†
*Since Minister to Austria.
The following is also
Don Antonio Ro-
"Notes of a Military Reconnoissance."
extracted,—occurring the night of the 8th:
bideaux, a thin man of fifty-five years, slept next to me. The loss
of blood from his wounds, added to the coldness of the night, twenty-
eight degrees Fahrenheit, made me think he would never see day-
light, but I was mistaken. He woke me to ask if I did not smell
coffee, and expressed the belief that a cup of that beverage would
save his life, and that nothing else would. Not knowing that there
had been any coffee in camp for many days, I supposed a dream had
carried him back to the cafés of St Louis and New Orleans, and it
was with some surprise that I found my cook heating a cup of coffee
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
261
The same day the surgeon, Griffin, reported that
all the wounded but two, would be able to ride.
There was so little expectation of Lieutenant
Beale's success that the General ordered every
incumbrance including great-coats, to be burned;
and all preparation to be made for the march next
morning.
"We were all reposing quietly, but not sleeping,
waiting for the break of day, when we were to go
down and give the enemy another defeat. . . . The
tramp of a column was heard, followed by the hail
of a sentinel.
"It was a detachment of one hundred tars and
eighty marines under Lieutenant Gray, sent to
meet us by Commodore Stockton, from whom we
learned that Lieutenant Beale, Carson and the Indian
over a small fire made of wild sage. One of the most agreeable
little offices performed in my life, and I believe in the cook's, to
whom the coffee belonged, was to pour the precious draught into the
waning body of our friend Robideaux. His warmth returned, and
with it hopes of life. In gratitude he gave me the half of a cake
made of brown flour, almost black with dirt, and which had, for
greater security, been hidden in the clothes of his Mexican servant,
a man who scorned ablutions. I ate more than half without inspec-
tion, when, on breaking a piece, the bodies of several of the most.
loathsome insects were exposed to my view. My hunger, however,
overcame my fastidiousness, and the morceau did not appear par-
ticularly disgusting."
262
THE CONQUEST OF
had arrived safely in San Diego. The detachment
left San Diego on the night of the 9th, cached them-
selves during the day of the 10th, and joined us on
the night of that day. These gallant fellows busied
themselves till day distributing their provisions and
clothes to our naked and hungry people." *
This junction was a surprise to the Californians,
and when the sun rose on the 11th, only a squad of.
them was to be seen; and in retiring they had left
most of the cattle behind, although none of General
Kearny's force were now mounted. It was ascer-
tained that one hundred and eighty Californians
were engaged at San Pascual, and that one hundred
additional joined them next day from the Pueblo
of Los Angeles.
December 12th, General Kearny reached San
Diego.
The frigate Congress and sloop Portsmouth were
at the anchorage opposite the hide ware-houses two
miles from the village; this consisted of a few adobe
houses, only two or three, of all, with plank floors.
* "Notes of a Military Reconnoissance."
V.
FINAL CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA.
HUS General Kearny had found that the Cali-
THUS
fornians, having thought better of their first
apparent submission-which was the result of sur-
prise, and their habitual acquiescence in pronuncia-
mentos and revolutions-had thrown off, by force of
arms, near three months previously, the foreign
yoke; that of the whole great Territory, only three
small villages on the coast were dominated by the
navy, which had ceased all further efforts, appar-
ently vain enough. He had fought the first battle
of the real conquest.
Now his first thoughts were not of title, of rank,
and right of command in the Territory, but patri-
otic and unselfish. His lance wounds soon heal-
ing, he suggested and then patiently continued to
urge on Commodore Stockton that action must be
taken; that the naval force which could be spared
to act on land, his few dragoons and some volun-
264
THE CONQUEST OF
teers should attempt a campaign; should march
into the heart of the most inimical district, and
attack and recover the capital, the Ciudad de Los
Angeles.
He finally prevailed, and Commodore Stockton.
consented.
December 29th, 1846, General Kearny and Com-
modore Stockton marched from San Diego with
near six hundred men; they were composed of
about sixty dismounted dragoons, sixty volunteers,
including some Indians, and the rest sailors and
marines. There was a battery of six pieces of
various calibre, drawn by oxen, and a baggage
train of eleven ox-carts: the acting infantry force
was divided into four bodies, commanded by Captain
Turner, Lieutenant Renshaw, Navy, Lieutenants.
Zielin and Gillespie, Marine Corps; the artillery by
Lieutenant Tilghman, of the Navy.
The march and camps were habitually in a
hollow square, with cattle and baggage in the centre,
artillery at the angles. They camped at the first
watering place, the Solidad, at 8 o'clock, P. M. Cap-
tain Emory as adjutant-general, had been "ordered
to ride forward and lay out a defensive camp,
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
265
hoping to give confidence to the sailors, many of
whom were now for the first time, transferred to a
new element."*
The march was ten or twelve miles a day.
January 4th, nine miles beyond Flores, they
approached a defile of eight miles, the road being
thrown on the sea beach by high lands; they were
there met by a flag of truce, bearing a letter from
Flores, styling himself governor and captain-general
of the department of California, proposing to sus-
pend hostilities in the department, and leave the
battle to be fought elsewhere upon which was to
depend the fate of California between the United
States and Mexico. The commission was dismissed
with a peremptory refusal of the proposition. For-
tunately the little army found low tide and marched
upon the hard beaten sand; they met no opposi
tion, and passed beyond, making eighteen miles
that day.
January 6th, after a long march camp was made
at the upper Santa Anna, which was deserted by
all except a few old women, who had bolted their
doors; "such was the unanimity of the men, women
*Notes of a Military Reconnoissance."
I 2
266
THE CONQUEST OF
and children, in support of the war, that not a parti-
cle of information could be obtained in reference to
the enemy's force or position."
At 2 o'clock, January 8th, the army came in
sight of the San Gabriel River, where the enemy
began to show themselves. "The river was about
one hundred yards wide, knee deep, and flowing
over quicksand; either side was fringed with a thick.
undergrowth. The approach on our side was level,
that on the enemy's side favorable to him. A
bank fifty feet high ranged parallel with the river,
at point blank distances, upon which he posted his
artillery."*
General Kearny's account of the action which
followed is embraced in his short official report
to the Adjutant-General, which should be here
given entire.
Headquarters Army of the West, Ciudad de Los Angeles,
Upper California, January 12, 1847.
SIR, I have the honor to report, that at the request of
Commodore R. F. Stockton (who in September last assumed
the title of Governor of California), I consented to take com-
mand of an expedition to this place-capital of the country—
and that on the 29th of December, I left San Diego with about
* "Notes of a Military Reconnoissance."
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
267
five hundred men, consisting of sixty dismounted dragoons,
under Captain Turner; fifty California volunteers, and the re-
mainder of marines and sailors, with a battery of artillery. Lieu-
tenant Emory, topographical engineers, acted as assistant adju-
tant-general. Commodore Stockton accompanied us.
We pro-
ceeded on our route without seeing the enemy till the 8th instant,
when they showed themselves in full force of six hundred mounted
men, with four pieces of artillery, under their Governor
Flores, occupying the heights in front of us, which commanded
the crossing of the river San Gabriel, and they ready to oppose
our further progress. The necessary disposition of our troops.
was immediately made, by covering our front with a strong
party of skirmishers, placing our wagons and baggage train in
rear of them, and protecting the flanks and rear with the re-
mainder of the command. We then proceeded, forded the
river, carried the heights, and drove the enemy from them after
an action of about one and a half hours, during which they
made a charge upon our left flank, which was repulsed; soon
after which, they retreated and left us in possession of the field,
on which we encamped that night.
The next day, the 9th instant, we proceeded on our march
at the usual hour, the enemy in front and on our flanks, and
when we reached the plains of the Mesa, their artillery again
opened upon us, when their fire was returned by our guns as
we advanced; and after hovering around and near us for about
two hours, occasionally skirmishing with us during that time,
they concentrated their force and made another charge on our
left flank, which was quickly repulsed; shortly after which they
retired, we continuing our march; and in the afternoon en-
camped on the bank of the San Fernando, three miles below
this city, which we entered the following morning without
molestation.
Our loss in the actions of the 8th and 9th instant was small,
being one private killed and two officers (Lieutenant Renshaw
of the navy and Captain Gillespie of the volunteers) and eleven
privates wounded. The enemy mounted on fine horses and
being the best riders in the world, carried off their killed and
268
THE CONQUEST OF
wounded, and we know not the number of them, though it
must have been considerable.
Very respectfully your obedient servant,
S. W. KEARNY, Brigadier-General.
To Brigadier-General R. Jones,
Adjutant-General United States Army, Washington.
In fact, while marching on the city, on the 10th,
a flag of truce was met, and a verbal agreement was
made of surrender on condition of respecting persons.
and property.
The town was deserted by many of its regular
inhabitants; but the streets were found "full of des-
perate and drunken fellows, who brandished their
arms and saluted us with every term of reproach.
The crest, overlooking the town, in rifle range, was
covered with horsemen, engaged in the same hos-
pitable manner
the Californians on the
hill, did fire on the vaqueros.
ordered to clear the hill, which
killing two of the enemy.
The rifles were then
a single fire effected,
Towards the close of
the day we learned very certainly that Flores, with one
hundred and fifty men, chiefly Sonorians, and desper-
adoes of the country, had fled toward Sonora, taking
with him four or five hundred of the best horses and
mules of the country, the property of his own friends."*
*"Notes of a Military Reconnoissance."

NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
269
Next day Lieutenant Emory was ordered to
select a site, and commence a fort capable of defence.
by one hundred men, and commanding the town; it
was begun, but the work was continued only for a
few days.
Many men came into Los Angeles and
surrendered themselves.
Lieutenant-Colonel Fremont. was left at the
mission of San Fernando, January 11th, about twen-
ty-four miles from Los Angeles, having been six
weeks on his march from San Juan, near Monterey.
That same day two Californians met the battal-
ion, and gave information of the two days' fighting,
and that General Kearny and Commodore Stockton
had marched into Los Angeles the day before. "A
little farther on, we met a Frenchman who stated
that he was the bearer of a letter from General
Kearny, at Los Angeles, to Colonel Fremont.
confirmed the statement we had just heard."
99%
He
On the morning of the 13th, two Californian
officers arrived at the mission, to treat of peace, and
a consultation was held. The same day the battal-
ion marched to the rancho of Couenga, twelve miles,
* "What I saw in California," by E. Bryant, p. 391.
270
THE CONQUEST OF
-half way to Los Angeles.
There, terms of capitu-
lation and peace were agreed upon, viz.
ARTICLES OF CAPITULATION made and entered into at
the rancho of Couenga, this thirteenth day of January, eighteen
hundred and forty-seven, between P. B. Reading, Major Louis
McLane, Jr., commanding Third Artillery; William H. Russell,
ordnance officer-commissioners appointed, by J. C. Fremont,
Colonel United States Army, and Military commandant of
California; and Jose Antonio Carrillo, Commandant squadron ;
Augustin Olivera, deputado-Commissioners appointed by Don
Andreas Pico, Commander-in-chief of the Californian forces
under the Mexican flag.
Article 1st. The commissioners on the part of the Califor-
nians, agree that their entire force shall, on presentation of
themselves to Lieutenant-colonel Fremont, deliver up their ar-
tillery and public arms, and that they shall return peaceably to
their homes, conforming to the laws and regulations of the
United States, and not again take up arms during the war be-
tween the United States and Mexico, but will assist and aid in
placing the country in a state of peace and tranquillity.
Article 2d. The commissioners on the part of Lieutenant-
colonel Fremont agree and bind themselves, on the fulfilment
of the first article by the Californians, that they shall be guaran-
teed protection of life and property, whether on parole or other-
wise.
Article 3d. That until a treaty of peace be made and
signed between the United States of North America, and the
Republic of Mexico, no Californian, or any other Mexican citi-
zen shall be bound to take the oath of allegiance.
Article 4th. That any Californian or citizen of Mexico, de-
siring, is permitted by this capitulation, to leave the country
without let or hindrance.
Article 5th. That in virtue of the aforesaid articles, equal
rights and privileges are vouchsafed to every citizen of Califor-
nia as are enjoyed by the citizens of the United States of North
America.
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
271
Article 6th. All officers, citizens, foreigners, and others,
shall receive the protection guaranteed by the Second Article.
Article 7th.—This capitulation is intended to be no bar in
effecting such arrangement as may in future be in justice re-
quired by both parties.
Ciudad de Los Angeles, Jan. 16th, 1847.
ADDITIONAL ARTICLE.-That the paroles of all officers,
citizens, and others of the United States and of naturalized citi-
zens of Mexico, are by this foregoing capitulation cancelled,
and every condition of said paroles, from and after this date, are
of no further force and effect, and all prisoners of both parties.
are hereby released.
Approved,
P. B. READING, Major, Cal'a Battalion.
LOUIS MCLANE, Commander Artillery.
WM. H. RUSSELL, Ordnance Officer.
JOSE ANTONIO CARRILLO, Comd't of Squadron.
AUGUSTIO OLIVERA, Deputado.
J. C. FREMONT, Lieut.-colonel, U. S. Army, and
Military Commandant of California.
ANDRES PICO, Commandant of Squadron, and
Chief of the National Forces of California.
14th, Lieutenant-Colonel
Fremont
On the
marched his volunteer battalion into Los Angeles,
and there placed them in temporary quarters. The
capitulation would appear not to have been signed or
approved until after his junction with the forces of
General Kearny and Commodore Stockton.
The following is taken from an official report of
Commodore Stockton to the Secretary of the Navy,
dated January 15th, 1847:
272
THE CONQUEST OF
"José Ma. Flores, the commander of the insurgent forces,
two or three days previous to the 8th, sent two commissioners
with a flag of truce to my camp to make a treaty of peace.'
I informed the commissioners that I could not recognize Jose
Ma. Flores, who had broken his parole, as an honorable man,
or as one having any rightful authority, worthy to be treated
with, that he was a rebel in arms, and if I caught him I would
have him shot. It seems that not being able to negotiate with
me, and having lost the battles of the 8th and 9th, they met
Colonel Fremont on the 12th instant, on his way here, who not
knowing what had occurred, he entered into capitulation with
them, which I now send to you; and, although I refused to do
it myself, still I have thought it best to approve it."
The fact that Lieutenant-colonel Fremont did
not treat with the objectionable Flores, must make
it certain that Commodore Stockton referred, in this
report, to the only matter of importance, that Lieu-
tenant-colonel Fremont made a treaty, with enemies
he had never met, in a camp twelve miles from the
capital and the headquarters of two superiors in
rank and civil authority, who had recently fought
and defeated them. And the facts shown, make it
evident that Lieutenant-colonel Fremont did "know
what had occurred," and that Commodore R. F.
Stockton knew that it was so.
The Secretary of War, in his instructions to
General Kearny, dated June 3d, 1846, informs him,
"It is expected that the naval forces of the United
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
273
States which are now, or will soon be in the Pacific,
will be in possession of all the towns of the sea coast,
and will co-operate with you in the conquest of Cali-
fornia," and further; "should you conquer and take
possession of New Mexico and Upper California, or
considerable places in either, you will establish tem-
porary civil governments therein."
The Secretary of the Navy, in communicating.
instructions addressed to Commodore Stockton, dated
November 5th, 1846, says:
"The President has deemed it best for the public interests
to invest the military officer commanding with the direction of
the operations on land, and with the administrative functions of
government over the people and territory occupied by us. You
will relinquish to Colonel Mason, or to General Kearny, if the
latter shall arrive before you have done so, the entire control
over these matters, and turn over to him all papers necessary
to the performance of his duties."
He had previously, July 12th, 1846, instructed
the commander of the naval forces: "For your
further instruction I enclose you a copy of confi-
dential instructions from the War Department to
Brigadier S. W. Kearny, who is ordered, overland,
to California. You will also communicate your
instructions to him, and inform him that they have
the sanction of the President."
12I
%
274
THE CONQUEST OF
And August 13th, the Secretary of the Navy
instructed "The senior officer in command of the
United States naval forces in the Pacific Ocean ;--
The President expects and requires, however, the
most cordial and effectual coöperation between the
officers of the two services, in taking possession of,
and holding the ports and positions of the enemy,
which are designated in the instructions to either or
both branches of the service, and will hold any
commander of either branch to a strict responsi-
bility for any failure to preserve harmony and secure
the objects proposed."
General Kearny having now, by the accession of
Fremont's battalion, sufficient forces for service on
land, asserted his rights, as necessary for the per-
formance of the duties which had been intrusted to
him, to “establish civil governments."
Lieutenant
colonel Fremont refused to report to him, or to obey
his orders; and in this he was evidently supported.
by Commodore Stockton.
General Kearny was, for the time, utterly power-
less, and on the 18th of January set out with his
dragoon escort for San Diego, and sent Captain
Emory, by Panama, with dispatches for Washington.
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
275
Next day, Commodore Stockton appointed Lieu-
tenant-colonel Fremont, Governor of California, and
set out, also, for San Diego where his squadron lay;
and the day following the sailors and marines.
marched to embark at San Pedro to rejoin their ships.
January 22d Lieutenant-colonel Fremont, as
"Governor and Commander-in-chief of California,"
proclaimed "order and peace restored to the country."
Commodore Stockton, in his latter years, was
accounted by many as erratic, and at times beyond
the verge of reason.
But how shall be explained this dangerous indul-
gence of a spurious ambition, by a character, whom
the people of the United States saw fit afterward to
place in very great prominence? Did he have un-
bounded trust in an influence which had shown such
friendly potency in the outset of his California career?
Do the Spainards take every where a moral
contagion? or does the arid atmosphere of their
chosen abodes,-in Mexico, in California, as in Spain,
-so peculiarly affect the brains of men, as to make
these countries the lands of pronunciamentos and
anarchy ? *
* All the world knows that an investigation that same year of
276
THE CONQUEST OF
Hostilities were not confined to Southern Cali-
fornia. While General Kearny was marching on
Los Angeles, one Don Francisco Sanchez, at the
head of a hundred men, held sway for a time in the
country about San Francisco and Monterey. Besides.
other Americans whom he held prisoners, he cap-
tured Lieut. Bartlett, of the Navy, acting alcalde of
San Francisco. Then Captain Marston, Marine
corps, was sent against him from San Francisco,
with one hundred marines and volunteers, and a
piece of artillery. January 2d, he met him on the
plains of Santa Clara; after an action of an hour,
with small loss on either side, Sanchez retreated
and the same evening sent by a flag, a request for
an armistice and conference. Next day Marston
was joined by a company of mounted volun-
teers, under Lieut. Maddox, Marine corps, from
Monterey.
January 8th, the Californians gave up Lieutenant
Bartlett and other prisoners, surrendered a field-
piece and other arms, and disbanded.
Col. F.'s conduct at this time by a general court martial, resulted in
his conviction of mutiny and disobedience of orders, and sentence
of dismissal from the army.
Commodore Stockton escaped a trial.
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
277
DANGEROUS CONSEQUENCES OF THE MUTINY.
AN INTERREGNUM.
THE narrative of the march of the infantry bat-
talion under Lieutenant-colonel Cooke, was closed.
at its arrival at the Mission of San Diego, January
29th, 1847, and his report in person to General
Kearny the same evening at San Diego.
General Kearny could in no way authorize re-
cognition of the usurpation then existing; he in-
structed Lieut.-colonel Cooke to march to the mission
of San Luis Rey, fifty-three miles from San Diego,
on the road to Los Angeles, and there to quarter
his battalion; to await events and further orders, but
to exercise such authority and power as might
become necessary in his judgment, under unforeseen
circumstances of national interests and defence.
Most fortunately, Commodore Shubrick was
then expected at Monterey, as commander of the
Pacific squadron. The opportunity of a vessel of
war sailing the next day for Monterey, offering
itself, General Kearny embarked, January 30th, for
that port.
Lieut.-colonel Cooke was thus left in the com-
278
THE CONQUEST OF
mand of the only troops in California that had been.
mustered into the service of the United States; a
few dragoons, and a battalion of volunteers, which
up to that time had never had opportunity to re-
ceive regular instruction in arms.
Lieutenant-colonel Fremont,-eighty-eight miles
north of San Luis Rey,-was in command of a "bat-
talion," only provisionally in the service; of men
more ignorant of military law and discipline than
their commander, (who had never served but as a
detached topographical engineer,) but they were
personally dependent on him and devoted to his
fortunes; and Fremont claimed absolute authority,
civil and military, in the Territory.
But to complete the situation. A few days
before a body of enemies superior in number to
both battalions,-half savage and raised to arms,--
quite accustomed to seditions and revolutions, had
disbanded under a capitulation made under the de-
pression of their defeat, but without much loss, by
large forces which then, near by, held their capital.
That force had now been reduced to the small un-
disciplined battalion of Fremont. These insurgents.
knew well the dissensions and divided authority
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
279
among their enemies; they had retained their arms,
and were now, professedly, only waiting expected
reinforcements from Mexico to renew the war.
The battalion accordingly marched to San Luis
Rey, and took quarters in the Mission buildings, in
the first days of February. The mission is beautifully
situated, overlooking fertile and well watered lands;
even the high hills showing, by their smoothness,
the former cultivation, in wheat. It is only two or
three miles distant, but does not command a view
of the ocean. This immense mission structure,
with an imposing church in an angle, built about
sixty years previously, was found in good condition;
buildings, and corral and garden wall-tops as well,
protected by roofs of red tiles. In the centre of the
main court was an orange tree with ripening fruit;
pomegranate trees were in their beautiful blossom.
There were other courts,-one for cattle. The bat-
talion found ample quarters. There was a large
garden and vineyard, enclosed by handsome walls.
The absence of forest trees is a very character-
istic feature of California; grey squirrels, which
seemed identical with the tree species, were here.
found, but necessarily burrowing in the earth.
280
THE CONQUEST OF
Lieut.-colonel Cooke immediately commenced.
a thorough practical instruction of the battalion in
tactics; the absence of books made it a difficult and
laborious task,-teaching and drilling officers half
the day, and superintending, in the other half, their
efforts to impart what they had just imperfectly
learned. But all were in earnest, and in a very few
weeks the complete battalion exercises were mas-
tered.
The "Secretary of State" stopped at the mis-
sion the evening of February 21st; sent, he said
from the capital to represent the government at
a ball to be given February 22d, by Commodore
Stockton at San Diego. He stated that two com-
panies of Californians had been raised for service;
that any attack to displace the present government
would be resisted by force, that a thousand natives.
would rise to support Colonel Fremont. But his
opinions and assertions were equally unreliable.
But about that time there was good evidence that
many inhabitants pretty openly asserted that they
would rise again, if any assistance came from So-
noma.
Major Swords, Quarter-master, who was sent to
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
281
the Sandwich Islands for provisions and specie,
arrived at San Diego February 19th with flour,
sugar, etc.
In my diary I find for March 1st: "Last night two
more families, passing, applied for the use of quar-
ters, and several officers gave up to them their
rooms. They have spent here much of the day.
They travel in carts drawn by oxen; the 'mode' too
at Constantinople and in New Mexico. But these
carts are superior to the New Mexican's, and contain
mattresses, which with blanket awnings, must make
them rather comfortable. The travelers were of the
best class, and the ladies were handsome.
This contrast of ox carts to male locomotion here,
is extreme. On our march I was startled by a
party of men riding at full gallop to meet us, and driv-
ing twenty or thirty horses; it was one or two proprie-
tors traveling, with their servants; then I saw two of
the men dash into the drove, swinging their lazos, with
which they caught two loose horses; very quickly
they transferred the equipments of those they had
ridden, which were then turned loose to rest them-
selves at the gallop!"
Next day, Señor Bandini, of San Diego, called;
282
THE CONQUEST OF
-a member of the "legislative council;" it ap-
peared from his statements that the Frigate Con-
gress was about to sail; that there was a small troop
of native volunteers at the place, whose commander
had written by him-to Colonel Fremont--that
they must speedily disperse, from want of pro-
visions.
An officer and thirty-two men were sent from
San Luis Rey, the following morning, March 3d, to
take post there, for protection of the town and of a
provision depot.
There were reports then, from two sources, of
the approach of a force from Sonora.
The killing of a beef presented a characteristic
trait of Californians; the vaquero pursuing the herd
at full speed with lazo flying, catches one by a
fore leg, and throws it with a tremendous shock: he
then cuts its throat. The lazo is also used for the
rare occasion of catching and milking a cow, which
has to be tightly bound after being caught.
March 9th.-"A frost last night; many of the
men, volunteers and dragoons, have long been bare-
footed! they march on guard barefooted; none have
overcoats; the volunteers never had them; those of
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
283
the dragoons were burnt. There is no public money,
for pay, or for purchase of provisions. I feed four
hundred men at a cost to government of four and a
half cents a day each; this being the value of four
pounds of beef. The Californians pay their Indian.
servants with aguadiente; a sort of fiery whiskey
which they distil.
March 12th." For forty days I have commanded
the legal forces in California,-the war still existing;
and not pretending to the highest authority of any
sort, have had no communication with any higher,
or any other, military, naval, or civil... I have
put a garrison in San Diego; the civil officers, ap
pointed by a naval officer, otherwise refusing to
serve; while a naval officer ashore, is styled by some,
"Governor of San Diego."
General Kearny is supreme-somewhere up the
coast; Colonel Fremont supreme at Pueblo de los
Angeles; Commodore Stockton is "Commander
in-chief" at San Diego;-Commodore Shubrick, the
same at Monterey, and I, at San Luis Rey;—and
we are all supremely poor; the government having
no money and no credit; and we hold the Territory
because Mexico is poorest of all.
284
THE CONQUEST OF
I rode to the seashore this afternoon, and saw the
spouting of whales.”
March 14th.--Major H. S. Turner, as Adjutant
General, arrived at San Luis Rey, the bearer of news
and an important document: the announcement, in
both languages, of the assumption of government,
and all legal authority, naval and military, by Com-
modore Shubrick and General Kearny, at Monterey,
now the capital.
Commodore Shubrick arrived there January 23d,
and February 1st, issued a general order, as Com-
mander-in-chief; it announced the arrival of Captain
Tompkins' company of United States. Artillery, and
discharged, with commendation and thanks, Mad-
dox's volunteers.
This was some weeks before General Kearny's
arrival at Monterey.
But now a "circular" was published, dated
March 1st, signed by Commodore Shubrick, “Com-
mander-in-chief of the Naval Forces," and General
Kearny, "Brigadier-general and Governor of Califor-
nia." It announced that, "to the Commander-in-
chief of the Naval Forces the President has assigned
the regulation of the import trade, the conditions
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
285
:
on which vessels of all nations, our own as well as
foreign, may be admitted into the ports of the terri-
tory, and the establishment of all port regulations.
"To the commanding military officer the presi
dent has assigned the direction of the operations on
land, and has invested him with administrative func-
tions of government over the people and territory
occupied by the forces of the United States."
This a recital of facts well known from the first.
There was further, the proclamation of General
Kearny as Governor.
It was long; it "absolved all the inhabitants of
California from any further allegiance to the Repub-
lic of Mexico, and will consider them as citizens of
the United States."
"The Americans and
Californians are now but one people; let us cherish
one wish, one hope, and let that be for the peace
and quiet of our country. Let us, as a band of
brothers, unite and emulate each other in our exer-
tions to benefit and improve this our beautiful, and
which soon must be, our happy and prosperous
home."
It contained scarcely any allusion to existing dis-
sensions, and this probably was the reason that it did
286
THE CONQUEST OF
not end them; those most unselfishly devoted to the
safety of public interests, felt the imperative policy
of concealing them; they observed their effect as
temptations to complications involving bloodshed,
and a thorough alienation of a simple minded popu-
lation, and possibly the advantage of the uti possi-
detis at the treaty of peace, the period of which was
beyond any conjecture in California. The reader
must have observed the almost permanent severance
of communication with the eastern side of the conti-
nent; let him consider that Commodore Stockton
seems to have been six or eight weeks officially
ignorant of Commodore Shubrick's presence very
far short of the other extremity of the territory
itself.
Major Turner, who came by way of Los Angeles,
was bearer of a general order, placing Lieut.-colonel
Cooke in command of the southern half of Cali-
fornia; and he informed him that he had brought
orders to Lieut.-colonel Fremont to disband his bat-
talion, but that those men desiring it, should be
mustered into public service. If he failed to obey,
Captain Turner was instructed to notify General
Kearny at Monterey, by express.
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
287
Lieutenant-colonel Cooke immediately sent a
courier to Colonel Fremont, to ascertain what number
The
of the men had been mustered into service.
answer was by a "governor," through his "secretary
of state," that none had consented to enter the
public service; but as rumors of insurrection were
rife, it was not deemed safe to disband them. He
asked for no assistance, under the dangerous circum-
stances; but on the contrary, added that the “bat-
talion would be amply sufficient for the safety of the
artillery and ordnance stores."
Meantime Captain Turner had returned to Los
Angeles, and there being convinced that Lieutenant-
colonel Fremont did not intend to obey the orders,
set out himself, express, for Monterey; this being.
made known from the many horses driven according
to the custom, Lieutenant-colonel Fremont set out,
half a day later, and rode to Monterey in four days;
but on arriving there he found that Captain Turner
had also arrived, several hours before him. Never-
theless, it appeared that Lieutenant-colonel Fremont
satisfied General Kearny that he would obey orders,
and was suffered to return.
But Lieutenant-colonel Cooke had decided to
288
THE CONQUEST OF
march to Los Angeles, and he reached there the 23d
of March; he was politely met, at the edge of town,
by Captain Gillespie, who informed him that Lieu-
tenant-colonel Fremont had left for Monterey the
day before. The battalion was formed in line in the
main street; then the dragoons were quartered in a
government building, and the battalion went into
camp in the edge of the town.
The same day the alcalde waited on Lieutenant-
colonel Cooke and informed him of frequent depre-
dations by Indians, and that by last accounts, they
were in possession of his rancho, about thirty-five
miles distant. Next morning, a Lieutenant and
thirty dragoons, mounted, were sent to investigate
the matter, and to act according to circumstances.
The following is extracted from Lieutenant-col-
onel Cooke's diary, March 24th :--
"After breakfast I rode out to the San Gabriel
mission; it is a beautiful plain, somewhat undulating,
eight miles to that point; it is part of the great
"Mesa," but there is a low ridge of green hills; the
pin grass I found most luxuriant. As I approached
the base of the mountain, I came in view of the
woods of the San Gabriel River and its pretty valley,
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
289
or meadow-land.
the old mission, to which water is brought by a
canal. There were the usual appearances of old
fields and plantations,--and olive trees, dates, cactus
hedges, etc.; a good large church, with pilasters;
the buildings looked dingy and dilapidated, and
above all, very dirty; the heads and offal of slaugh-
tered beeves were lying in disagreeable vicinity.
Some two miles this side, stands
"I fell in, on the road, with a gentlemen who said
he was the adjutant, and seemed very ignorant of
the true state of affairs, and asked what was the dif-
ficulty between General Kearny and Commodore
Stockton. He had not seen, he said, either the
circular of the Governor and Commodore Shubrick,
or Tenth Military Department Order No. Two, rela-
tive to the mustering the battalion into service, etc.
I showed them to him. All the volunteers I saw,
seemed very polite, and even friendly. I went in to
see Captain Owens, in command of the battalion.
Lieutenant Davidson and Assistant-surgeon Sander.
son were with me the whole time; Captain Owens
expressed the same ignorance of the circular and the
order; I showed them to him; the order he looked
at a long time, but I am very much mistaken if he
13
290
THE CONQUEST OF
turned the leaf (it was on two sides of a leaf). I
mentioned that they were not really in the United
States service, unless for the purpose of being
marched to a point to be discharged; I said I had
an idea of putting some of my battalion out there;
he said there was no room for them, that there was
not room enough for all the battalion (the adjutant
had told me that the battalion was now two hun-
dred and six in number). I asked the captain, who
seemed very shy, to show me the buildings, etc.
He conducted me through his room into the court,
where I saw the artillery and examined it; I re-
marked to him that there were the two howitzers
belonging to the dragoons, and asked Mr. Davidson
if one of them was not so much out of order that it
could not be taken to town? and then said to Cap-
tain Owens that I had directed that some mules
should be brought out to take those two pieces in,
to-day. He observed that he had received special
orders from Colonel Fremont not to turn over any
of the artillery to any one, and that he could not
let it go.
I told him that the government authori-
ties, the general of the army and governor, had com-
mitted the command here to me, and asked him if
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
291
he did not acknowledge the authority of the United
States Government? He said it was hard to know
what was the legal authority, he knew none but
Colonel Fremont; he regarded him as the chief mili-
tary authority in this country. I asked him what
could convince him? what evidence he wanted? I
took out and read to him the printed circular and the
Department Order; told him that these were the
highest authorities by land and sea; told him that
Colonel Mason had lately came out express with the
fresh orders of the government; that Fremont him-
self had so far obeyed as to drop his title of gov-
ernor, and had gone to Monterey to report himself.
He said he did not know what Colonel Fremont
had gone for; that he would soon return,—that he
ranked me, and he did not know but what Colonel
Fremont had received other orders since the date
of order No. Two, etc., etc. I very coolly and in
perfect temper, exhausted every information, every
argument, every appeal to his patriotism,—every
motive in this distant land, for obedience and union.
amidst enemies; pointed out the disastrous conse-
quences likely to ensue to public interests and to
persons, by this treasonable course. In vain; he had
292
THE CONQUEST OF
received Fremont's orders to obey none other, and
nothing more would he do. He had offered to
show me the orders, and I finally told him I would
look at them. It was a letter of instructions
to Captain Owens; after stating he was about to
make a tour to the northern district, on matters
connected with his military duties, it proceeded to
five or six paragraphs of special orders; one was to
the effect that he was to obey the orders of no offi-
cers, not coming expressly from him; another that he
was to retain charge of all the ordnance, and to
deliver it to no corps without express orders from
him.
The President of the United States, in person,
would fail to get the artillery, or be obeyed by Cap-
tain Owens with his battalion, until Lieutenant-
colonel Fremont gave the permission! I asked for
pen and ink to take a copy of the orders; he de-
clined. I told Captain Owens that it was an illegal
order; that we all bound ourselves to obey the le-
gal orders of our superiors; and that Colonel Fre-
mont could not defeat, or release the obligation. I
told him I had no personal motives; that I only
looked upon him as an American, whom I met as a
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
293
*
friend far from home, and advised him, by my expe
rience of twenty years' service, to think better of it.
All was vain; these people, very many of them good
well-meaning citizens have, it would seem, been
cruelly and studiously deceived. . . . I took my
leave.'
**
The "
Secretary of State" disappeared at the
approach of the battalion, leaving a report that he
had left for the United States; a number of horses.
also had been taken from the mission; but there
was evidence of his still being somewhere about Los
Angeles.
March 25th.-The severe frosts of the early part
*The late Hon. T. H. Benton, as advocate, and as Senator, in
his many speeches against General Kearny, made the point that the.
author had in some way, been instructed by him to "crush" Lieu-
tenant-colonel Fremont; the failure only arising from the author's
imputed want of force of character. But as Colonel Fremont had
disappeared at his approach-had gone to report to his legal com-
mander-allusion must have been made to the author's brooking the
mutinous conduct of the ignorant Owens.
Could insanity have gone farther than that a half of the dimin-
utive forces holding the doubtful conquest of so distant a province,
should resort to force of arms (evidently unnecessary, as the event,
easily foreseen, proved) against the other half, and in the presence of
armed and eager enemies!
It
The "conveniently missing" diary was also remarked upon.
had been sunk in crossing a river, near Sutter's Fort; but having
been searched for, and found by Sutter's Indians, had not then been
received or heard from.
294
THE CONQUEST OF
of this month were unexampled, for any season of
the year; it appeared that the young orange trees
were much injured; and citrons, bearing at once
flowers and fruit, were to be seen frost-bitten to
near the root. But the orange groves of the vicin-
ity were unharmed.
"Our little rivers, the San Fernando and the San
Gabriel, approaching in broad sweep, unite six miles
below, and are lost in the earth before reaching the
ocean; it is probable that the beautiful plain, nearly
circular and eight miles across, can be irrigated;
then, flourishing like a garden, and overlooked by
the snowy mountain, it might rival in beauty, as it
must resemble, that of Grenada. It is a happiness to
breathe the air, which gently stirs the vineyards and
orange groves."
An express was sent to Monterey with a report
of the attitude of the immigrant "battalion."
March 27th, the troops were moved to a carefully
selected spot commanding the town.
"This place, whether the 'Paris of California' or
not, is a hot bed of sedition, and originates all the
rebellions or revolutions; and women, they say, play
an influential part. It has come to my knowledge.
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
295
that the common talk is of the affair of the refused
cannon; and that there soon will be more 'fun';
but they add that the Californians will join the men
at San Miguel. That sounds badly."
Captain Smith returned the 28th; he had gone
above sixty miles; he only discovered four Indians,
who had murdered one, and wounded another man,
and had stolen their animals; they were afoot, and
ran to the near hills; the dragoons pursued and sur-
rounded them, dismounted. The Indians, lying on
their backs, defended themselves with arrows,
which they shot with wonderful rapidity, wounding
two of the men and several horses; they would
not surrender and were all killed; they were
naked, or had rabbit skins slung at their backs, as
their sole covering. Some twenty horses were re-
covered.
"The dragoon horses came back with feet so
worn as to make the most of them lame and use-
less. I shall to-morrow commence the introduction
of horse-shoes in California, at least in this southern
part. It would not suit the views of the Treasury
Department to furnish two or three horses per man,
California fashion; and it might not be of military
296
THE CONQUEST OF
convenience.' (The attempt failed for
proper iron.)
want of
Some Californians, this day rode out of town, at
full speed, under fire of a few dragoons, a-foot, who
had been ordered to arrest them; they had assault-
ed a countryman for having taken part with the
Americans. It appears that an old regulation, clos-
ing drinking saloons on Sundays, has of late months
been abrogated, and with very bad effects.
Lieutenant-colonel Fremont returned to Los
Angeles March 30th.
Colonel R. B. Mason, first dragoons, had been
sent to California in consequence of General Kear-
ny's request to be relieved so soon as peace and
order should follow on the conquest of California.
He was now sent to Los Angeles, as an officer se-
nior in army rank to Lieutenant-colonel Fremont, to
enforce the discharge of the "battalion," and obe-
dience to other orders. The New York regiment of
volunteers, Colonel Stevenson, had arrived at Mon-
terey; and two companies had taken post at Santa
Barbara, and one at San Diego.
During all this period there were depredations
by wild Indians, and exaggerated reports, and appli-
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
297
cations for military aid and protection, to the com-
mander at Los Angeles; Captain A. J. Smith was
sent to Cajon Pass, March 31st, with forty dragoons,
in consequence of repeated calls for protection from
an invasion of Piute Indians on the settlements of
that vicinity.
The authority of Colonel Mason proved sufficient,
with some difficulty, for the discharge of Lieuten-
ant-colonel Fremont's men; and ten pieces of
cannon were brought from the mission to Los An-
geles. Only twenty-five horses were delivered.
Indian murders and depredations seemed to
increase; it was believed that a body of Utahs, from
far beyond the Territory, had invaded it. Colonel
Mason, exercising a civil authority, addressed to al-
caldes requisition to furnish Lieut.-colonel Cooke
with all the men and horses he should demand. An
expedition dependent upon this aid was planned by
the latter, but failed for want of coöperation; but a
company of the Mormon battalion was sent, April
IIth, to establish a post at the Cajon Pass.
The view from the hill overlooking the town is
fine; the white-walled village is fully revealed, as at
your feet; the meadows of the bright stream, inter-
13*
298
THE CONQUEST OF
sected by many 'live fence' enclosures of vineyards,
gardens and orchards; the Mesa extending above
twenty miles, and the ocean beyond; on two sides,
smooth green hills swell into mountains, which have
the rich blue tints of a pure atmosphere, and are
capped with snow-fields."
Report was received that the people near Cajon.
Pass refused, at first, to sell cattle; and will not
send them to the post.
It is known that Indians—all savages—are very
sympathetic with any warlike commotions; these ev-
idently stir within them, and encourage their natu-
ral passions, and their cherished habits. It is prob-
able that they were now thus incited to very unusual
activity of aggression. But here, as in New Mexico,
the Mexican power habitually ignored any duty of
protection against them; and certainly now, the
people were entirely remiss in any coöperation for
their own protection, even in the matter of their
abundant horses; and more, a general backwardness
or unwillingness to sell horses for government use.
Thus perhaps their applications and reports should
have been treated with indifference; and there were.
indications, as there was rumor, of bad influences, of
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
299
subtle intrigue. It was perhaps a mistake in Lieu-
tenant-colonel Cooke, to yield, as far as he did, to his
instincts of military protection.
April 19th.—“The irrigating canals are a source
of considerable trouble and vexation; not only as to
distribution into fair shares, but in the matter of
drinking, when foul clothes have been washed above.
"The native, of the best class, on occasion of cere-
mony is picturesque as well as very fine in costume.
As a horseman he wears ever a jacket, but an or-
namental one; the trousers are open on the outer
seams nearly to the waist, with many buttons,
chiefly for ornament; they show thus, very white
fine and voluminous drawers. They wear also, silk
sashes of bright colors (from China). Stamped
leather leggings, wonderful spurs, and the sombrero
complete the picture."
It was ascertained, April 20th, that two men, in
advance of a party of eleven, had arrived in Los
Angeles from Sonora, and had presented passports
to the alcalde,-who made no report. The men
were confined, and examined separately; one of
them had a passport which had been sent to him by
Lieutenant-colonel Fremont; he had been a cap-
300
THE CONQUEST OF
tain in the late hostilities,--and the other had been
engaged in them, and wounded; giving a good
account of themselves, they were released. But im-
mediately after, it was reported through town that
General Bustamente was approaching California at
the head of a military force,—and then more defi-
nitely, a force of fifteen hundred men.
An intelligent Spanish gentleman was communi-
cated with: he gave positive information that the
Mexican Government had appropriated $600,000
toward this expedition, and that artillery and other
arms and stores, had been collected at Acapulco;
and also that one Limentura, whose vessel had lately
been seized at San Pedro, had brought commissions,
of high rank, for Californians. This gentleman de-
tailed extraordinary indications, in the southern
district, of an expected resort to arms, and was of
opinion that there would be an insurrection, whether
external aid came or not, unless the American forces
were increased in this quarter; that the natives no
more regarded the troops at Monterey than if they
were at Boston.
It was soon ascertained that Limentura had
landed cannon, etc., at San Vincente or San Thomas
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
301
-twelve miles apart-and near the Lower Califor-
nia line. There was a general excitement, and
threatening demonstrations, accompanying these
reports, whether true or false.
All measures of precaution were immediately
but very quietly taken; an officers' party of dra-
goons was sent to Warner's rancho, Agua Caliente,
to patrol the Sonora road as far as the desert; the
company at Cajon Pass was withdrawn, the park of
artillery was brought from camp into town, to the
dragoon quarters, and three pieces manned by dra-
goons. The construction of a fort on the hill, fully
commanding the town, which had been previously
determined upon, was begun, and a company of
infantry there posted. An express was sent to the
commanding-general at Monterey.
A communication was also sent to Commodore
Stockton, still at San Diego, giving full and minute
information of the landing of the stores; and inform-
ing him that the lower road, easiest for General
Bustamente, if coming, fell into the coast road at
San Vincente; it was suggested that it would be well
to send the sloop Julia, very quietly, to capture the
cannon and stores.
302
THE CONQUEST OF
Meanwhile the patrol had observed a collection
of horses, which were being driven for concealment
into cañons; and a traveller from Santa Barbara
encountered twenty armed men, with the Mexican
flag displayed. A race was announced at Santa
Anna, eight or ten miles from Los Angeles, for
Sunday April 25, and without the license required
by Mexican law and usage. It was not stopped;
and it was attended by nearly all the males of Los
Angeles (including some confidential observers).
This meeting was kept up until late at night; and
undoubtedly it was then decided to await the act-
ual arrival of reinforcements from Mexico. Lieu-
tenant-colonel Fremont, two weeks previously, had
informed Colonel Mason that his business would be
finished in two or three days, when, as ordered, he
would set out for Monterey; but he still lingered at
Los Angeles.
April 28th, an answer was received from Com-
modore Stockton; he promised to sail to find and
seize the deposit of arms, as soon as he could get.
the Congress out of the harbor; he added, "if Bus-
tamente comes this road, he will not go far without
some broken shins and bloody noses." The Julia
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
303
came to San Pedro, April 30th, Lieutenant Selden
commander, bringing an application from Commo-
dore Stockton for four-pounders, to be used against
Bustamente; he had sailed in the Congress. As
most of the ammunition at Los Angeles was for
four-pounders, they were not sent.
A report was received, May 3d, through the
best available sources of information, that General
Bustamente had crossed the Gulf, near its head, in
boats of the pearl fishers; and, at last information
was at a rancho on the western coast, seventy
leagues below San Diego. The same day a return
courier from Monterey gave information that two
companies of the New York volunteers would be
sent to Los Angeles.
The arrival of large reinforcements from New
York, and the preparations for his reception, are
among the probable causes of the miscarriage of
General Bustamente's expedition.
Meantime, while immigration had been largely
increasing, San Francisco, whose existence counted
by months, showed great vitality and growth; fifty
houses had gone up in a month; its population was
American; General Kearny, aided by the arrival of
304
THE CONQUEST OF
troops and large amounts of mechanical means, and
stores of all sorts, was fast establishing confidence
and order throughout. March 10th, following
Mexican law and custom, he granted to the town of
San Francisco,-to be sold at auction for its benefit,
-the beach and water lots; thus providing for
wharves and docks, for the accommodation of a
commerce which was growing beyond all precedent;
merchant vessels were arriving almost daily; already
the editor of a newspaper there established, was
predicting its destiny to be the "Liverpool or New
York of the Pacific Ocean."
In March, also, General Kearny inaugurated the
first beginning of a mail service in the Territory; a
horse mail was established every two weeks each
way, between San Francisco and San Diego.
General Kearny arrived at Los Angeles May 9th;
he had come to San Pedro in the store-ship Lexing-
ton; and with him were Colonel Stevenson and two
companies of the New York regiment. Lieutenant-
colonel Fremont was then sent to Monterey to be
thence ordered to Fort Leavenworth.
The General and Governor was at this time look-
ing to his speedy return, overland, to the United
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA.
305
States; availing himself of the permission accorded
to his application made at Santa Fè, to return "in
the event of our getting possession of Upper Califor-
nia—of establishing a civil government there,-se-
curing peace, quiet and order among the inhabitants,
and precluding the possibility of the Mexicans again
having control there."
The time of service of the Mormon battalion ex-
pired in July, and the acceptance of the resignation
of its Lieutenant-colonel commanding having been
earnestly urged by him, in order that he might also
return by this opportunity, it was accepted by
General Kearny, May 13th, and he embarked, next
day, with him and his suit, on the Lexington at San
Pedro for Monterey.
After a pleasant voyage, lengthened by calms,
the Lexington sailed into the picturesque but not
always safe bay and harbor of Monterey, May 27th.
"A most beautiful view presented itself; in the
foreground eight vessels of war and some merchant-
men were riding at anchor; beyond, the green.
slopes of the town and its environs, enclosed by
a perfect semi-circle of rounded hills, chequered
and sprinkled with the dark pines. Nature with
306
THE CONQUEST OF
...
its graceful variety here outdid itself in a dis-
tribution of slope and grove, valley and hill-
top, which formed a combination of the unsought
effect, which taste and art could not equal on this
scale of magnificence; a grandeur, which, stopping
short of the sublime, is the perfection of the
beautiful."
The Columbus, ninety guns, was then in the
harbor, and Commodore Biddle was Naval Com-
mander-in-chief.
Leaving Colonel R. B. Mason, First Dragoons,
Military Commander and Governor, in his place,
General Kearny, May 31st, with numerous officers,
constituting, with attendants, about forty men, (ex-
clusive of Lieutenant-colonel Fremont's large party),
and divided into convenient small messes, set out
upon what proved a hard ride; one which averaged
thirty-three miles a day for eighty-three days, with-
out one of rest. Their provisions were exhausted,
while in a corner of the territory of the Oregon of
that day; but they soon met, as expected, the head
of the great column of migration, extending then
perhaps, a thousand miles.
NEW MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA,
307
The sequel of the military conquest is told in
few words; for the poor natives of that great coun-
try, and all their discontent and restlessness, their
hatred, threats, and seditions, were soon to be over-
whelmed and extinguished, as by the stroke of
Fate. Two men, discharged from the Mormon bat-
talion, and employed by Captain Sutter to dig a
mill-race, a few months later discovered, in prodigal
abundance, placer GOLD.
THE END.
ཀ
}

THE UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
GRADUATE LIBRARY
DATE DUE

at Roxzo
Pimo Villages
■Sonia
new nating lown's
| 111° 46′ W. Long.
II
Río Gila
rain
water pools.
ry Cre
Gold District.
Gold District.
no water
Small water. "\\pole in the Rocks.
Sandy Desert.
with irregular mountains.
no
Awater
dry
Lost
wahr here
A Camps.
Explanations etc. Distances between marked in figures:
Water at all camps, unless the
contrary is stated
ENGRAVED FOR COOKES' "CONQUEST OF NEW MEXICO."
Coyetero
Tueson
16
ma. Vill®
Fillage
San
Pedro
Minerous
of wild Cattle from
Sa Berna
the point where the
Sa Pedro
left.
Very
mountamous
and broken.
(From
SKIIH
of part of the march & wagon rod of Lt. Colonel, COOKE,
1
from Santa Fe to the Pidic Ocean 1846-7
a point on (trande River, (near which the Trodal cross,) to the Pimo Villages, where he fell into,
& followed the route of Oen Kuny, down the Gila River.
Believed by A Leroux to be an open prairie & a gag rent, if water is found sufficient.
Cañon
San Pedro
Ball Bun
Cañon
Deserted Rancho.
Santa Cruz mountain
Pedro River
water
Covetero trails for
plundered Cattle & mules
said
better
Blac
Fronteras
Coyciters The
San
Hernadias)
"R Huaqui
Lost in sand
Sierra
دما
Yanos Road
Prairie,
R.Gila
Apach
no mountains visible
Dry lake
or
Las Playas
Surra de los „Inimos
no mabitains visible
in the direction.
Road to Yanos
Water by dighing
Copper mines
saquan
18
Water
Sinks
Ojo de Vaca
Sinks
no water
Water for 50 animals
Yanos. ☐
proposed Road
19
107° 36′ W. Long. I
107°36′
Point 22 m. below Santa Fe.
Drag Tatil
Flat
mountains
arande
33°13)
16
£Viege
"Foster's Hole
13
Except in the spots & directions indicated.
the traveller is continually surrounded by
isolated Mountains & short ridges.
Distances from Indepence M to Pacific.
To Santa Fe
775 miles.
775 ms.
Rio Grande left
258
1033
་་
Tucson
Pinto Villages
363
1396
81
1477
vi
“missing of Lolorado
100%
First Wells
13
1695
2nd Wells
23
1718
•
3rd Wells
25
1743
Cariza (Strean
28 ..
1771
1st Settlements ·
47
1818
San Diego
52
1870
G. P. PUTNAM'S SO
YORK.
| 133° 13′ N. Lat

MAP Room
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}
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
3 9015 02664 5393
The Map Accompanying This
Text to 19
THE UNIV OF LICH.
MAP COLLECTION
DO NOT REMOVE
OR
MUTILATE CARD

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