A
855,209
1
ย!
احمد
ARTES
LIBRARY
1837
VERITAS
SCIENTIA
OF THE
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
ZLAURIAUS UMU!
TUEBOR
SI QUÆRIS-PENINSULAM·AMŒNAM
CIRCUMSPICE
2
1
{
I
Mechanick Exerciſes
OR THE
DOCTRINE
OF
HANDY-WORKS.
Smithing
Joinery
Applied to the Arts of Carpentry:
Turning
Bucklayery.
To which is added
Mechanick Dyalling: Showing how to draw a true
Sun-Dyal on any given Plane, however Scitua-
ted; only with the help of a ſtraight Ruler and
a pair of Compaffes, and without any Arithmeti-
cal Calculation.
The Third Edition.
By JOSEPH MOXON, Fellow of the
Royal Society, and Hydrographer to the late
King Charles.
LONDON:
Printed for Dan. Midwinter and Tho. Leigh, at the
Rofe and Crown in St. Paul's-Church-Yard. 1703.
*
PREFACE.
I
See no more Reaſon, why the Sordidneſs
of fome Workmen, should be the cauſe
of contempt upon Manual Operations,
than that the excellent Invention of a Mill
fhould be difpis'd, becauſe a blind Horfe draws
in it. And tho' the Mechanicks be, by
fome, accounted Ignoble and Scandalous? yet it
is very well known, that many Gentlemen in
this Nation, of good Rank and high Quality,
are converfant in Handy-Works: And o-
ther Nations exceed us in numbers of fuch.
How pleaſant and healthey this their Diver-
fion is, their Minds and Bodies find; and how
Harmless and Honeft, all fober men may judge?
That Geometry, Aftronomy, Per-
fpective, Mufick, Navigation, Archi-
tecture, &c. are excellent Sciences, all that
know but their very Names will confefs: Yet
to what purpose would Geometry ferve, were
it not to contrive Rules for Handy-Works?
Or how could Aftronomy be known to any
perfection, but by Inftruments made by Hand?
A 2
What
·
PREFACE.
What Perſpective ſhould we have to delight
our Sight? What Mufick to ravish our Ears?
What Navigation to Guard and Enrich our
Country? Or what Architecture to defend us
from the Inconveniencies of different Weather,
without Manual Operations? Or how waste
and useless would many of the Productions of
this and other Counties be, were it not for
Manufactures.
To dive into the Original of the Mecha-
nicks is impoffible, therefore I shall not offer
at it; only I fhall fay, it is Rational to think,
that the Mechanicks began with Man, he
being the only Creature that Nature has impofed
moft Neceffity upon to use it, endow'd with grea-
test Reaſon to contrive it,and adapted with pro-
pereft Members (as Inftruments) to perform it.
Nor is it eafie to find by any Anthority, what
part of the Mechanicks was first Practifed
by Man; therefore I fhall wave that too, and
only confider, that if we our felves were the firſt
Men, what Branch of the Mechanicks we
fhould firft Need, and have recourse to.
I have confidered, and Anfwer, That
without the Invention of Smithing prima-
rily, most other Mechanick Invention
would
PREFAC E.
would be at a stand: The Inftruments, or
Tools, that are uſed in them, being either made
of Iron, or fome other matter, form'd by the
help of Iron. But pray take Notice, that by
Iron, I also mean Steel, it being originally Iron.
Nor would I have you understand, that
when I name the Mechanicks, I mean
that rough and Barbarous fort of working
which is used by the Natives of America,
and fome other fuch Places; for, though
they did indeed make Houfes, Canoes, Earth-
en Pots, Bows, Arrows, &c. without
the help of Iron, because they had then none
amongst them: Yet fince Iron is now known
to them, they leave of their old way of
working without it, and betake themselves to
the use of it. Nor are, at this day, (though
now they have in part the use of Iron) their
Machines made by good and ready Rules
of Art; for they know neither of Rule,
Square, or Compass; and what they do,
is done by Tedious Working, and he that
has the best Eye at Gueffing, works beft
upon the Straight, Square or Circle, &c.
The Lord Bacon, in his Natural Hif-
tory, reckons that Philofophy would be
improved,
PREFACE.
improv'd, by having the Secrets of all Trades
lye open; not only because much Experi·
mental Philofophy, is Coucht amongst them;
but also that the Trades themselves might,
by a Philofopher, be improv'd. Befides,
I find, that one Trade may borrow many
Eminent Helps in Work of another Trade.
Hitherto Icannot learn that any bath under-
taken this Task, though I could have wifht it
had been performed by an abler hand then mine;
yet, fince it is not, I have vetured upon it.
I thought to have given thefe Exer-
ciles, the Title of The Doctrine of
Handy-Crafts; but when I better con-
fidered the true meaning of the Word
Handy-Crafts, I found the Doctrine
would not bear it; becaufe Hand-Craft
fignifies Cunning, or Sleight, or Craft
of the Hand, which cannot be taught by
Words, but is only gained by Practile and
Exercife; therefore I shall not undertake,
that with the bare_reading of thefe Exer-
cifes, any shall be able to perform theſe
Handy-Works; but I may fafely tell
you, that these are the Rules that e-
very one that will endeavour to perform
them
PREFACE.
them must follow; and that by the true ob-
ferving them, he may, according to his
Stock of Ingenuity and Diligence, fooner or
later, inure his hand to the Cunning or
Craft of working like a Handy-Craft, and
confequently be able to perform them in time.
For the Reafon aforefaid I intend to
begin with Smithing, which comprehends
not only the Black-Smith's Trade, but
takes in all Trades which ufe either Forge
or File, from the Anchor-Smith, to the
Watch-Maker; they all working by the fame
Rules, tho' not with equal exactness, and all
ufing the fame Tools, tho' of feveral Sizes
from thofe the common Black-Smith ufes, and
that according to the various purpoſes they are
applied to: And in order to it, I shall
first shew you how to fet up a Forge, and
what Tools you must use in the Black-
Smith's work; then the Rules, and feve-
ral Circumſtances of Forging, till your
Work come to the File: Then of the feve-
ral Sorts of Iron that are commonly used;
and what fort is fittest for each purpose.
Afterwards of Filing in general, and the
Rules to be obferved in it, in the making of
Jacks,
PREFACE.
Jacks, Hinges, Screws, Clocks, Watch-
es, c. In which Examples, you will
find all other Sorts of Forging or Fi-
ling work whatsoever comprehended. And
laftly, as a cloſe to Smithing, I fhall Ex-
ercife upon Steel, and its feveral Sorts,
and how to Order and Temper it for its
feveral Ufes; and what Sort is fitteft for
each particular purpofe; as which is fittest
for Edge-Tools, which for Springs,
which for Punches, &c.
Some perhaps would have thought it more
Proper, to have introduced thefe Exer-
ciles with a more Curious, and lefs Vul-
gar Art, than that of Smithing; but I
am not of their Opinion; for Smithing
is in all parts, as curious a Handy-Craft,
as any is: Befides, it is a great Introduct -
ion to most other Handy-Works, as Joy-
nery, Turning, Gr. they (with the
Smith) working upon the Sraight, Square,
or Circle, though with different Tools,
upon different Matter; and they all ha-
ving dependance upon the Smith's Trade,
and not the Smith upon them.
Joſeph Moxon.
Page 1.
F
J
F
Fig. 8.
Fig. 1.
A
ABA Fig.6.
Fig. 4.
A
Fy. 2.
A
B
F
Fig.3.
A B
D
Fig.5
Fig. 7.
6
D
(i)
MECHANICK EXERCISES:
OR,
The Doctrine of Handy-Works.
S
Of SMITHING in General.
Definition.
MITHING is an Art-Manual, by which
an irregular Lump (or feveral Lumps) of
Iron, is wrought into an intended Shape.
This Definition, needs no Explanation;
therefore I fhall proceed to give you an
Account of the Tools a Smith uſes; not but
that (they being fo common) I fuppofe you do
already know them; but partly becauſe they
may require fome precaution in fetting them
up fitreft to your ufe; and partly becauſe it be-
hoves you to know the Names, Smiths call the
ſeveral parts of them by; that when I name them
in Smith's Language (as I fhall oft have occa-
fion to do in theſe Exercises) you may the eaſier
underſtand them, as you read them.
TH
Of Setting up a Smith's Forge.
HE Hearth, or Fire-place of the Forge mark-
ed A. (in Plate 1.) is to be built up from
your floor with Brick about two foot and an half,
or fometimes two foot nine Inches high,accord-
ing to the purpoſe you defign your Forge for; for
if your Forge be intended for heavy work, your
Hearth muft lie lower than it need be for light
A
work,
2
SMITHING.
work, for eafinefs of management, and fo broad
as you think convenient: It may be built with
hollow Arches underneath, to fet feveral things
out of the way. The Back of the Forge is built up-
right to the top of the Ceiling, and incloſed o-
ver the Fire-place with a Hovel, which ends in
a Chimney to carry away the Smoak, as B. In the
back of the Forge against the Fire-place,is fixed a
thick Iron Plate, and a taper Pipe in it about five
Inches long, called a Tewel, or (as fome call it)
a Tewel-Iron marked *,which Pipe comes through
the Back of the Forge, as at C. Into this taper
Pipe or Tewel is placed the Nofe, or Pipe of the
Bellows. The Office of this Towel, is only to pre-
ferve the Pipe of the Bellows, and the back of
the Forge about the Fire-place from burning.
Right against the Back is placed at about twenty
Inches, or two foot difiance, the Trough, and
reaches commonly through the whole breadth of
the Forge, and is as broad and deep as you think
good, as at D. The Bellows is placed behind the
Back of the Forge, and hath as aforefaid, its Pipe
fitted into the Pipe of the Tewel, and hath one of
its Boards fixed fo that it move not upwards or
downwards. At the Ear of the upper Bellows
board is faftened a Rope, or fometimes a Thong of
Leather, or an Iron Chain or Red, as E; which
reaches up to the Rocker, and is faftened there to
the farther end of the Handle,as at F. This Han-
dle is faftened a cross a Rock-staff, which moves
between two Checks upon the Center-pins, in
two Sockets, as at G. So that by drawing down
this Handle, the moving Board of the Bellows ri-
fes, and by a confiderable weight fet on the top
of its upper Board finks down again, and by this
Agitation performs the Office of a pair of Bellows.
Of
SMITHING.
3
THE
Of the Anvil.
HE fhape of a Black Smith's Anvil I have
inferted in this Figure, though it is fome-
times made with a Pike, or Bickern, or Beak-irin,
at one end of it, whofe ufe I fhall fhew you when
I come to round hollow work. Its Face must be
very flat and ſmooth, without Flaws, and fo hard
that a File will not touch it (as Smiths fay, when a
File will not cut, or race it.) The upper Plain
A. is called the Face; it is commonly fet upon a
wooden Block, that it may ftand very fteady and
folid,and about two foot high from the floor, or
fometimes higher, according to the ftature of
the Perfon that is to work at it.
TH
Of the Tongs.
;
Here are two forts of Tongs ufed by Smiths
the one the Straight-nofed Tongs, uſed when
the work is fhort, and fomewhat flat, and gene-
rally for all Plate Iron. The other Crocked-nos'd
Tongs, to be uſed for the forging fmall Bars, or
fuch thicker work, as will be held within the
Returns of their Chaps. The Chaps are placed near
the Joint, becaufe, that confidering the length
of the Handles, they hold the Iron fafter than
they would do, were they placed farther from
the Joint, as in the Fig. 3. 4. A the Chaps, B the
Joint, CC the Handles.
TH
Of the Hammer, and the Sledge.
;
Here are feveral forts of Hammers uſed by
Black-Smiths as firft the Hand-hammer,
which is fometimes bigger, or lefs, according to
the Strength of the Work-man; but it is a Ham-
mer of fuch weight, that it may be weilded, or
governed, with one hand at the Anvil. Second-
ly, the Up-band Sledge, ufed by under-Workmen,
when the Work is not of the largeft, yet requires
A 2
help
4
SMITHING.
help to batter, or draw it out; they uſe it with
both their hands before them, and feldom lift
their Hammer higher than their head. Thirdly,
the About Sledge is the biggeſt Hammer of all,and
is alſo uſed by under-Workmen, for the batter-
ing, or drawing out of the largeſt Work; and
then they hold the farther end of the Handle in
both their Hands,and fwinging the Sledge above
their Heads, they at Arms end let fall as heavy a
Blow as they can upon the Work. There is alfo
another Hammer ufed by them, which they call
a Rivetting-hammer. This is the fmalleft Hammer
of all, and very rarely ufed at the Forge, unleſs
your Work prove very ſmall, but upon cold I-
ron it is uſed for rivetting, or fetting ſtraight,
or crooking ſmall work. In Fig. 5. A the Face,
B the Pen, C the Eye, D the Handle.
TH
Of the Vice.
THE Vice muft be fet up very firmly that it
ſhake not,and ſtand upright with its Chaps,
parallel or range with your Work-bench; becauſe
fquare filing, is a great piece of good Work-
manship in a Smith; and fhould the Vice not
ftand upright, and range with the Work-bench,
the Chaps pinching upon two fquare fides, would
make the top fide of your work either lean to-
wards you, or from you; and confequently you
filing (as a good Workman ought to do) upon
the flat, or Horizontal Plain of your work,would
take off more of that Angle, or Edge,which ri-
ſes higher than the Plain, and lefs off that Edge,
that lies lower than the Plain; fo that one Angle
being higher,or lower,than the other, your work
inftead of being filed Square,would be filed Squa-
re-wife, when you fhall have filed all its flat fides,
and that more or lefs, according to the leaning
of the Chaps of your Vice. AA the Face, hath its
two
SMITHING.
S
two ends in a ftraight Line with the middle
of its Face, or Plain. B the Chaps must be cut
with a Baftard Cut, and very well tempered;
Cthe Screw Pin,cut with a fquare ſtrong Worm.
D the Nut, or Screw Box, hath alfo à fquare
a
Worm, and is brazed into the round Box. É the
Spring must be made of good Steel, and very
well temper'd: Where note that the wider the
two ends of the Spring ſtand aſunder, the wider
it throws the Chaps of the Vice open. F the Foot
muſt be ſtraight, and therefore will be the
ftronger to bear good heavy blows upon the
work ſcrewed in the Chaps of the Vice, that it
neither bow, or tremble.
OF
Of the Hand-Vice.
F the Hand-Vice are two Sorts, one is called
the Broad Chapt Hand-Vice, the other the
Square Nos'd Hand-Vice. The Office of the Hand-
Vice, is to hold fmall work in, that may require
often turning about; it is held in the left hand,
and each part of your work turned upwards
fucceffively, that you have occafion to file with
your right. The Square-ncs'd Hand-Vice is fel-
dom ufed, but for filing fmall Globulous Work,
as the Heads of Pins that round off towards the
Edges, &c. And that becauſe the Chaps do not
ftand fhouldering in the way, but that the flat
of the File may the better come at the Edges.
Their Chaps must be cut as the Vice aforefaid, and
well tempered.
C.
Of the Plyers.
Lyers are of two Sorts, Flat Nos'd, and Round
Nos'. Their Office is to hold, and faften
upon all fmall work, and to fit it in its place,
The Round Nos'd Flyers are ufed for turning, or
bowing Wyer, or fmall Plate, into a circular
Form. The Chaps of the Flat Nos'd Plyes, muft
A 3
alſo
6
SMITHING.
alfo be cut and temper'd, as the Chaps of the
Vice. A the Nofe, B the Chaps, C the Joint, DD
the Handles.
DRILL
Of the Drill, and Drill-Bow.
Rills are 'ufed for the making fuch Holes
as Punches will not conveniently ferve for;
as a piece of work that hath already its Shape,
and muft have an hole, or more, made in it.
Here the force of a Punch, will fet your work
out of order and fhape, becauſe it will both bat-
ter the Surface of the Iron, and ftretch its Sides
out: The fhank of a Key alfo, or fome fuch
long Hole, the Punch cannot ftrike, becauſe the
Shank is not forged with fubftance fufficient
but the Drill, tho' your work be filed and po-
lifh'd, never batters or ftretches it,but cuts a true
round Hole, juft in the point you firft place it.
You muſt have ſeveral Sizes of Drills, according
as your work may require. The fhape in Fig. 8.
is enough to fhew the Faſhion of it; but it muft
be made of good Steel, and well temper'd. A
the Point, AB the Shank, C the Drill-barrel :
Where note, that the bigger the Drill-barrel is,
the eaſier it runs about, but lefs ſwift.
And as you must be provided with feveral
Drills, fo you may fometimes require more than
one Drill-bow, or at leaft, feveral Drill-ftrings;
the ftrongest Strings for the largeft Drills, and the
ſmalleſt Strings for the fmalleft Drills: But you
muſt remember, that whether you ufe a fmall or
ftrong String, you keep your Drill-Bow ftraining
your String pretty ftiff, or clfe your String will
not carry your Barrel briskly about. But your
String and Bow, muft both be accommodated to
the Size of your Drill; and if both, or either, be
too ftrong, they will break, or bend your Drill,
or if too weak, they will not carry about the Bar-
rel, as aforefaid.
The
SMITHING.
7
The Drill-Plate, or Breaft-Plate, is only a piece
of flat Iron, fixt upon a flat Board, which Iron
hath an hole punched a little way into it, to fet
the blunt end of the Shank of the Drill in,when
you drill a hole: Workmen inftead of it, many
times ufe the Hammer, into which they prick a
hole a little way on the fide of it, and fo fet the
Hammer againft their Breaft.
TH
Of the Screw-Plate, and its Taps.
THE Screw-Plate is a Plate of Steel well tem-
per'd, with feveral holes in it, each lefs
than other,and in thofe Holes are Threds grooved
inwards; into which Grooves, fit the reſpective
Taps that belong to them. The Taps that belong
to them, are commonly made tapering towards
the Point, as Fig. 7. fhews. But thefe tapering
Taps, will not ferve for fome forts of works, as I
fhall fhew in its proper place.
Theſe are the moft Effential Tools uſed in
the Black-Smith's Trade; but fome accidental
work, may require fome accidental Tools,
which, as they may fall in, I fhall give you an
account of in convenient place.
I
of Forging in general.
Think it necdlefs to tell you how to make
your Fire, or blow it, becaufe they are both
but Labourers work; nor how little, or big, it
need to be, for your own reafon will, by the
Size of your work, teach you that; only let me
tell you the Phrafe Smiths ufe for[make the Fire]
is, Blow up the Fire, or fometimes, Blow up the Coals.
When it is burning with the Iron in it, you
muft, with the Slice, clap the Coals upon the
out-fide clofe together, to keep the heat in the
body of the Fire; and as oft as you find the Fire
begin to break out, clap them clofe again, and
A 4
with
8
SMITHING.
with the Waſher dipt in Water, wet the out-fide
of the Fire to damp the out-fide, as well to
fave Coals, as to ſtrike the force of the Fire in-
to the in-fide, that your work may heat the
fooner. But you ought oft to draw your work
a little way out of the Fire, to fee how it takes its
Heat, and quickly thruft it in again, if it be not
hot enough: For each purpofe your work is de-
figned to, ought to have a proper Heat ſuitable
to that purpofe, as I fhall fhew you in the feveral
Heats of Iron: For if it be too cold, it will not
feel the weight of the Hammer (as Smiths fay, when
it will not batter under the Hammer) and if it
be too hot, it will Red-fear, that is, break, or
crack under the Hammer, while it is working
between hot and cold.
THE
Of the feveral Heats Smiths take of their Iron.
Here are feveral degrees of Heats Smiths
take of their Iron, each according to the
purpoſe of their work. As firft, a Blood-red Heat.
Secondly, a White Flame Heat. Thirdly, a Spark-
ling, or Welding Heat.
The Blood-red Heat is ufed when Iron hath al-
ready its form and fize, as fometimes fquare
Bars, and Iron Plates, &c. have, but may want a
little Hammering to fmooth it. Ufe then the
Face of your Hand-hammer, and with light flat
Blows, hammer down the irregular Rifings into
the Body of your Iron, till it be fmooth enough
for the File. And note,that it behoves a good
Workman,to hammer his Work as true as he can,
for one quarter of an hour ſpent at the Forge,
may fave him an hours work at the Vice.
The Flame, or White Heat, is uſed when your
Iron hath not its Form or Size, but muſt be for-
ged into both; and then you muſt take a piece
of Iron thick enough, and with the Fen of your
Ham
SMITHING.
9
Hammer, (or fometimes, according to the ſize of
your work, uſe two or three pair of hands with
Sledges to) batter it out; or, as Workmen call it,
to draw it out, till it comes to its breadth, and
pretty near its fhape; and fo by feveral Heats,
if your work require them, frame it into Form
and Size; then with the Face of your Hand-
hammer, finooth your work from the Dents the
Pen made, as you did with a Blood-red Heat.
A Sparkling, or Welding-beat,is only uſed when
you double
up your Iron (as Smiths call it) to
make it thick enough for your purpoſe, and fo
weld, or work in the doubling into one another,
and make it become one entire lump; or it is
ufed when you join feveral Ears of Iron toge-
ther to make them thick enough for your pur-
pofe, and work them into one Bar; or elſe it
is uſed when you are to join, or weld two pie-
ces of Iron together end to end, to make them
long enough; but, in this caſe, you muſt be
very quick at the Forge; for when your two
ends are throughout of a good Heat, and that
the inſide of the Iron be almoft ready to Run,
as well as the outfide, you must very haftily
ſnatch them both out of the Fire together,and
(after you have with the Edge of your Hammer
fcraped off fuch Scales or Dirt as may hinder
their incorporating) with your utmoſt diligence
clap your left hand-piece,upon your right hand-
piece, and with all ſpeed (left you lofe fome
part of your good Heat) fall to Hammering
them together, and work them foundly into
one another and this, if your Bars be large,
will require another, or fomtimes two or three
pair of Hands befides your own to do but if
it be not throughly welded at the firft Heat, you
muft reiterate your Heats fo oft, till they be
throughly welded; then with a Flame-heat (as
before
IO
SMITHING.
before) fhape it, and afterwards ſmooth it with
a Blood-red Heat. To make your Iron come the
fooner to a Welding-beat,you muft now and then
with your Hearth-staff ftir up the Fire, and throw
up thofe Cinders the Iron may have run upon;
for they will never burn well, but fpoil the reft
of the Coals; and take a little white Sand be-
tween your Finger and your Thumb,and throw
upon the heating Iron, then with your Slice,
quickly clap the outfide of your Fire down a-
gain; and with your Washer dipt in Water, damp
the outſide of the Fire to keep the Heat in.
But you must take fpecial Care that your I-
ron burn not in the Fire, that is, that it do not
run or melt; for then your Iron will be fo brit-
tle, that it will not endure Forging without
breaking, and fo hard, that a File will not
touch it.
Some Smiths ufe to ftrew a little white Sand
upon the Face of the Anvil alſo, when they
are to hammer upon a Welding-heat; for they fay
it makes the Iron weld,or incorporate the better.
If through Miſtake, or ill management, your
Iron be too thin, or too narrow towards one of
the ends; then if you have fubftance enough
(and yet not too long) you may up-fet it, that is,
take a Flame-heat, and fet the heated end up-
right upon the Anvil, and hammer upon the cold
end, till the heated end be beat, or up-fet, into
the Body of your Work. But if it be a long
piece of Work, aud you fear its length may
wrong the middle, you must hold it in your left
hand, and lay it flat on the Anvil; but fo as the
heated end intended to be up-fet, may lie a lit-
tle over the further fide of the Anvil, aud then
with
your Hand-hammer in your right hand, beat
upon the heated end of your work, minding
that every ftroak you take, you hold your work
fliff
SMITHING.
II
ftiff against the Face of the Hammer. Afterwards
ſmooth it again with a Blood-red Heat.
If you are to Forge a Shoulder on one, or each
fide of your work, lay the Shank of
your Iron
at the place where your Shoulder muft be on the
edge of your Anvil (that edge which is moſt con-
venient to your hand) that if more Shoulders be
to be made, turn them all fucceffively, and ham-
mer your Iron fo, as that the Shank of the Iron
that lies on the flat of the Anvil, feel as well the
weight of your Blows, as the Shoulder at the
edge of the Anvil; for fhould you lay your
blows on the edge of the Anvil only, it would
inftead of flatting the Shank to make the Shoul-
der, cut your work through.
then
Your Work will fometimes require to have
holes punched in it at the Forge, you must then
make a Steel Punch to the fize and fhape of the
hole you are to ſtrike, and harden the point of
it without tempering, becauſe the heat of the
Iron will foften it faft enough, and fometimes
too fast, but then you muft re-harden it
taking a Blood-beat of your Iron, or if it be very
large, almoft a Flame-beat; lay it upon your
Anvil, and with your left hand, place the point
of the Punch where the hole muft be, and with
the Hand-bammer in your right hand punch the
hole; or if your work be heavy, you may hold
it in your left hand, and with your Punch fixed
at the end of a Hoop-ftick, or fome fuch Wood,
hold the ſtick in your right hand, and place the
point of
your Punch on the work where the hole
muft be, and let another Man ftrike, till your
Punch come pretty near the bottom of your
work; which when it does, the fides of your
work round about the hole, will rife from the
Face of the Anvil, and your Punch will print a
bunching mark upon the hole of a Bolster,that is,
a thick
12
SMITHING.
a thick Iron with a hole in it, and placing your
Punch, as before, ftrike it through. But you muft
note, that as oft as you fee your Punch heat, or
change Colour, you take it out of the hole, and
pop it into Water to re-harden it, or elfe it will
batter in the hole you intend to ftrike, and not
only ſpoil it felf, but the Work too, by running
afide in the Work. Having punched it through
on the one fide,turn the other fide of your work,
and with your Hammer fet it flat and ſtraight,
and with a Blood-beat punch it through on the
other fide alfo; fo fhall that hole be fit for the
File, or fquare bore, if the curiofity of your
purpoſed Work cannot allow it to pafs without
filing. When your Work is Forged,do not quench
it in water to cool it, but throw it down upon
the Floor, or Hearth, to cool of it felf; for the
quenching it in water will harden it; as I fhall-
fhortly fhew you, when I come to the Tempering
of Steel.
Of Brazing and Soldering.
You may have occafion ſometimes to Braze
or Solder a piece of work; but it is uſed by
Smiths only, when their work is fo thin, or
fmall, that it will not endure Welding. To do
this, take finall pieces of Brafs, and lay them on
the place that muſt be brazed, and ftrew a little
Glafs beaten to powder on it to make it run the
fooner, and give it a Heat in the Forge, till (by
fometimes drawing it a little way out of the Fire)
you fee the Brafs run. But if your work be fo
fmall, or thin, that you may fear the Iron will
run as foon as the Brafs, and fo you lofe your
work in the Fire, then you must make a Loam
of three parts Clay, and one part Horfe-dung,
and after they are wrought and mingled very
well together in your hands, wrap your work
with the Brafs, and a little beaten Glafs upon
the
SMITHING.
13
the place to be brazed clofe in the Loam, and
laying it a while upon the Hearth of the Forge to
dry, put the lump into the Fire, and blow the
Bellows to it, till you perceive it have a full Heat,
that is, till the Lump look like a well burnt Coal
of Fire; then take it out of the Fire, and let it
cool: Afterwards break it up, and take out your
Work.
Thus much of Forging in general. It remains
now, that you know what forts of Iron are fitteft
for the feveral Uſes,you may have occaſion to ap-
ply them.
I
Offeveral Sorts of Iron, and their proper Ufes.
Tis not my purpoſe, in this place,to tell you
how Iron is made, I fhall defer that till I
come to treat of Mettals,and their Refinings. Let
it at preſent ſatisfie thoſe that know it not, that
Iron is, by a violent Fire, melted out of hard
Stones, called Iron-Stones; of theſe Iron-Stones,
many Countries have great plenty. But becaufe
it waftes fuch great quantities of Wood to draw
the Iron from them, it will not, in many Places,
quit coft to uſe them. In moft parts of England,
we have abundance of thefe Iron-Stones; but our
English Iron, is generally a courfe fort of Iron,
hard and brittle, fit for Fire-bars,and other fuch
courfe Ufes; unlefs it be about the Forreſt of
Dean, and fome few places more, where the I-
ron proves very good.
Swedish Iron is of all Sorts, the beſt we uſe in
England.It is a fine tough fort of Iron,will beft en-
dure the Hammer, and is fofteft to file; and there-
fore moft coveted by Workmen, to work upon.
Spanish Iron,would be as good as Swedish Iron,
were it not fubject to Red-fear, (as Workmen
phraſe it) that is to crack betwixt hot and cold.
Therefore when it falls under your hands, you
muft
14
SMITHING.
muft tend it more earneftly at the Forge.But tho'
it be good, tough, foft Iron,yet for many Ufes,
Workmen will refuſe it, becauſe it is fo ill, and
un-evenly wrought in the Bars,that it costs them
a great deal of labour to fmooth it; but it is
good for all great works that require welding, as
the bodies of Anvils,Sledges, large Bell-clappers,
large Peſtles for Mortars, & all thick ftrong Bars,
&c.But it is particularly chofen by Anchor-Smiths,
becauſe it abides the Heat better than other Iron,
and when it is well wrought, is tougheft.
There is fome Iron comes from Holland (tho'
in no great quantity) but is made in Germany.
This Iron is called Dort Squares, only becauſe it
comes to us from thence, and is wrought into
fquare Bars three quarters of an Inch fquare. It
is a bad,courfe Iron,and only fit for flight Ufes,
as Window-Bars, Brewers-Bars, Fire-Bars, &c.
There is another fort of Iron ufed for making
of Wyer, which of all Sorts is the fofteft and
tougheft: But this Sort is not peculiar to any
Country, but is indifferently made where any
Iron is made, though of the worft fort; for it
is the firft Iron that runs from the Stone when it
is melting, and is only preferved or the ma-
king of Wyer.
By what hath been faid, you may fee that the
fofteſt and tougheft Iron is the bett: Therefore
when you chufe Iron,chufe fuch as bows ofteneft
before it break, which is an Argument of tough-
nefs; and fee it break found within, be grey of
Colour like broken Lead, and free from fuch
gliftering Specks you fee in broken Antimony,
no flaws or divifions in it; for theſe are Argu-
ments that it is found, and well wrought at
the Mill.
of
SMITHING.
IS
THE
Zes,
Of Filing in General.
HE feveral forts of Files that are in com-
mon uſe are the Square, the Flat, the three
Square, the half Round, the Round, the Thin File,
&c. All theſe ſhapes you muſt have of ſeveral Si-
and of feveral Cuts. You muſt have them of
feveral fizes, as well becauſe you may have feve-
ral fizes of work, as for that it fometimes falls out
that one piece of work may have many parts in
it joined and fitted to one another,fome of them
great, and others fmall; And you muſt have
them of feveral Cuts, becauſe the Rough-tooth'd File
cuts fafter than the Baftard-tooth'd File, the Fine-
tooth'd File fafter than the Smooth-tooth'd File.
The Rough or Courfe-tooth'd File (which if it
be large, is called a Rubber) is to take off the un-
evenneſs of your work which the Hammer made
in the Forging; the Baftard-tooth'd file is to take
out of your work, the deep cuts, or file-ftrokes,
the Rough-file made; the Fine-tooth'd file is to take
out the cuts, or file-ftrokes,the Baftard-file made;
and the Smooth-file is to take out thofe cuts, or
file-ftrokes, that the Fine file made.
Thus you fee how the Files of feveral Cuts fuc-
ceed one another, till your Work is ſo ſmooth
as it can be filed. You may make it yet ſmoother
with Emerick, Tripoli, &c. But of that in its pro-
per place, becauſe it fuits not with this Section
of Filing.
You muſt take care when you uſe the Rough
File, that you go very lightly over thofe dents
the Hammer made in your work, unleſs your
work be forged fomewhat of the ſtrongeſt, for
the dents being irregularities in your work, if
you fhould file away as much in them, as you
do off the Eminencies or Rifings, your work
(whether it be ftraight or circular) would be as
irregular, as it was before you filed it: And
when
16
SMITHING.
when you file upon the Prominent, or rifing
Parts of your Work, with your courfe cut File,
you muſt alſo take care that you file them not
more away than you need, for you may eaſily
be deceived; becauſe the courfe File cuts deep,
and makes deep ſcratches in the Work; and be-
fore you can take out thofe deep fcratches with
your finer cut Files, thofe places where the Ri-
fings were when your work was forged, may
become dents to your Hammer dents; therefore
file not thofe Rifings quite fo low, as the dents
the Hammer made, but only fo low as that the
fcratches the Rough-file makes may lie as low,or
deep in your work, as your Hammer dents do;
for then, when you come with your ſmoother
Cut Files, after your Rough-file, the ſcratches of
your Rough-file, and your Hammer-ftrokes, or
dents, may both come out together. But to do
this with greater certainty, hold your File fo,
that you may keep fo much of the length of your
File as you can to rub, range, (or, as near
range as you can) upon the length of your
work; for fo fhall the File enter upon the fe-
cond Rifing on your work, before it goes off
the firſt, and will flip over, and not touch the
dent or hollow between the two Rifings, till
your Rifings are brought into a ftraight line
with your hollow dent. But of this more fhall
be faid when I come to the Practice of Filing,
upon feveral particular forts of work.
If it be a fquare Bar, (or fuch like) you are
to file upon, all its Angles, or Edges, muſt be
left very ſharp and ftraight. Therefore your Vice
being well fet up, according to foregoing Di-
rections, you muſt in your filing athwart over
the Chaps of the Vice, be fure to carry both your
hands you hold the file in, truly Horizontal, or
flat over the Work; for fhould you let either of
your
SMITHING.
17
1
your hands mount, the other would dip, and
the edge of that Square it dips upon would be
taken off; and fhould you let your hand move
never fo little circularly, both the Edges you
file upon would be taken off, and the Middle
of intended Flat would be left with a
your
Rifing on it. But this Hand-craft, you muft
attain to by Practice; for it is the great Curio-
fity in Filing.
If it be a round Piece, or Rod of Iron, you
are to file upon, what you were forbid upon
Square Work, you muſt perform on the Round
for you muft dip your Handle-hand, and mount
your end-hand a little, and laying pritting near
the end of your File to the Work, file circu-
larly upon the Work,by mounting your Handle-
hand by degrees, and dipping your End-hand,
in fuch manner, as when the Middle of your File
comes about the top of your Work, your File
may be flat upon it, and as you continue your
ftroaks forwards, ftill keep your hands moving
circularly till you have finifhed your full Stroak,
that is, a Stroak the whole length of the File.
By this manner of Circular filing, you keep
your Piece, or Rod round; but fhould
flat upon the top of your work, fo many times
as you fhall remove, or turn your work in the
Vice, fo many Flats, or Squares, you would
have in your work; which is contrary to your
purpoſe.
you file
When you thruft your File forwards,lean hea-
vy upon it, becauſe the Teeth of the File are
made to cut forwards; but when you draw your
File back, to recover another thruft, lift, or
bear the File lightly just above the work; for it
cuts not coming back.
Thus much of FILING in General.
B
of
18
SMITHING.
Of the making of Hinges, Locks, Keys, Screws,
and Nuts, Small and Great.
I
Of Hinges.
'N Fig.1. A the Tail,B the Cross, CDDDDE
the Joint, DDDD the Pin-hole. When the
Joint at C on the Tail, is pind in the
Joint at E in the Cross, the whole Hinge is
called a Crofs-Garnet.
Hinges, if they be fmall (as for Cup-board
doors; Boxes, &c.) are cut out of cold Plate I-
ron with the (a) Cold-Chiffel, but you mark the
out-lines of your intended Hinge, as Fig. 1. the
Cross-Garnet, either with Chalk, or elfe rafe
upon the Plate with the corner of the Cold-
Chiffel, or any other hardned Steel that will
fcratch a bright ftroke upon the Plate; and
then laying the Plate flat upon the Anvil, if the
Plate be large, or upon the (b) Stake, if the Plate
be fmall, take the Cold-Chiffel in your left hand,
and fet the edge of it upon that Mark, or Rafe,
and with the Hand-hammer in your right hand,
ftrike upon the head of the Cold-Chiffel, till you
cut, or rather punch the edge of the Cold-Chif-
fel, almoſt thro' the Plate in that Place, I fay,
almoít through, becaufe, fhould you ftrike it
quite through, the edge of the Cold-Chiffel would
be in danger of battering, or elfe breaking; for
the Face of the Anvil is hardned Steel, and a
light blow upon its Face would wrong the edge
of the Cold-Chiffel; befides, it fometimes hap-
pens, that the Anvil, or Stake, is not all over
fo hard as it fhould be, and then the Cold-Chif-
fel would cut the Face of the Anvil, or Stake,
and confequently fpoil it: Therefore when the
edge of the Cold-Chiffel comes pretty near the
bot-
Plate 2.
Fig. 1
思
​A
D
A
H Fig 4
D
A
F
F
Fig. 5.
+
Fig. 2.
B
A
Fig. 3.
A
DX
E
+D F
1
Ꮹ
Fig. 6.
b.
Pag. 18.
A
K
Fig. 7.
A
A
Fig. 4.
A
T
}
SMITHING.
19
bottom of the Plate, you muft lay but light
blows upon the Cold-Chiffel; and yet you muft
ftrike the edge of the Cold-Chiffel ſo near through
the bottom of the Plate, that you may break
the remaining fubftance afunder with your Fin-
gers, or with a pair of Plyers, or fometimes by
pinching the Plate in the Vice, with the Cut
place clofe to the Superficies of the Chaps of
the Vice ; and then with your Fingers and
Thumb, or your whole hand, wriggle it quite
afunder. But having cut one breadth of the
Cold-Chiffel, remove the edge of it forward in
the Rafe, and cut another breadth, and fo move
it fucceffively, till your whole intended ſhape
be cut out of the Plate.
When you cut out an Hinge, you muſt leave
on the length of the Plate AB in this Figure,
Plate enough to lap over for the Joints, I mean,
to Turn, or Double about a round Pin, fo big as
you intend the Pin of your Hinge fhall be, and
alfo Plate enough to Weld upon the infide of
the Hinge below the Pin-hole of the Joint, that
the Foint may be ftrong.
The fize, or diameter of the Pin-hole, ought
to be about twice the thickneſs of the Plate you
make the Hinge of, therefore lay a wyre of fuch
a diameter towards the end B, in this Figure on
A
B
the Tail piece, a-thwart the Plate as CD, and
Double the end of the Plate B, over the wyre to
lap over it, and reach as far as it can upon the
end A; then hammer the Plate that is lap'd o-
ver the wyre cloſe to the wyre, to make the
Pin-hole round but if your Plate be thick, it
will require the taking of an Heat to make the
$
Ba
kam=
20
SMITHING.
1
hammer the cloſer to the wyre, and confequent-
ly make the Pin-hole the rounder: Your work
may alſo fometimes require to be Screwed into
the Vice, with the doubled end upwards, and the
bottom fide of the wyre clofe against the Chaps
of the Vice, and then to hammer upon the very
top of the Pin-bole to round it at the end alfo.
When you have made the Pin-hole round in the
inſide, take the Pin CD out of the Pin-hole, and
put the Joint-end of the Hinge into the Fire to
make a Welding-heat; which when it hath,ſnatch
it quickly out of the Fire, and hammer, or weld,
the end B upon the Tail-piece A till they be in-
corporate together. But you must have a care
that you hammer not upon the Plate of the Pin-
hole, left you ftop it up, or batter it; when it
is well Welded, you muſt again put in the Pin
CD, and if it will not well go into the Pin-
hole, (becauſe you may perhaps have hammer'd
either upon it, or too near it, and fo have fome-
what cloſed it) you muft force it in with your
hammer; and if it require, take a Blood-beat, or
a Flame-beat, of the Joint end) and then force
the Pin into the Pin-hole, till you find the Pin-
bole is again round within, and that the Pin, or
Wyre, turn evenly about within it.
Afterwards with a Punch of hardned Steel
(as you were taught Page 11. 12.) Punch the
Nail-boles in the Plate; or if your Plate be
very thin, you may punch them with a (c) cold
Punch. After all, Smooth it as well as you can
with your Hand-hammer; take a Blood-red-heat,
if your work require it, if not, smooth it cold;
fo will the Tail-piece be fit for the File. Double,
and Weld the Cross-piece, as you did the Tail-piece.
Having forg'd your Hinge fit for the File, you
muft proceed to make the Joint, by cutting a
Notch in the Middle of the Pin-hole between
DD in Plate 2. on the Cross, as at E, and you
muft cut down the Ends of the Pin-hole on the
Tail-
SMITHING.
21
Tail-piece, as at DD, till the Joint at C fit ex-
actly into the Notch in the Cross, and that when
the Pin is put into the Pin-hole DD on the Cross,
the Pin-hole in the Tail-piece may alfo receive the
Pin; then by holding the Tail-piece in one Hand,
and the Croſs in the other, double the Tail and
Crofs towards one another, to try if they move
evenly and ſmoothly without fhaking on the
Pin;
which if they do, the Joint is made; if
they do not, you muſt examine where the Fault
is, and taking the Pin out, mend the Fault in
the Joint.
Then File down all the Irregularities the Cold-
Chiffel made on the Edges of your Work, and (if
the Curioſity of Work require it) file alſo the
cuter Flat of your Work.But tho'Smiths that make
Quantities of Hinges, do brighten them, (as they
call it) yet they feldom file them, but Grinde
them on a Grindſftone till they become bright, &c.
Having finiſhed the Joint,put the Pin in again;
but take care it be a little longer than the Depth
of the Joint, becaufe you muft batter the Ends
of the Pin over the outer Edges of the Pin-hole,
that the Pin may not drop out when either Edge
of the Croſs is turned upwards.
The chiefeft Curiofity in the making theſe,
and, indeed, all other Hinges is, 1. That the
Pin-hole be exactly round, and not too wide for
the Pin. 2. That the Joints are let exactly into
one another, that they have no play between
them, left they ſhake upwards or downwards,
nor yet are forced too hard into one another,left
when they are nailed on the Door, the Joint be
in Danger of Breaking. 3. That the Crefs, and
the Tail lie on the Under-fide exactly flat, for
fhould they warp out of flat when they are nail-
ed on, the Nails would draw the Joint a-wry,
and not only make it move hard, and unevenly
but by oft Opening and Shutting break the Joint.
4. If your Work be intended to be curious, the
Ꮢ
В 3
true
22
SMITHING.
true Square-filing the Upper-fide, as you were
taught Page 15, 16, 17. is a great Ornament.
(a) Smiths call all Chiffels they uſe upon cold
Iron, Cold-Chiffels.
(b) The Stake is a fmall Anvil, which either
ftands upon a broad Iron Foot, or Bafis, on
the Work-Bench, to remove as Occaſion offers
or elſe it hath a ftrong Iron Spike at the Bot-
tom, which Iron Spike is let into ſome certain
Place of the Work-Bench not to be removed,
Its Office is to fet fmall cold Work ftraight
upon, or to Cut or Punch upon with the Cold-
Chiffel, or Cold-Punch.
(c) Smiths call all Punches they uſe upon cold
Iron, Cold-Punches.
If the Hinge you are to make be large,and Plate-
Iron is not ftrong enough for it, you muſt
Forge it out of Flat Bar-Iron, as you were taught
from Page 7 to Page 12.
·
The manner of working Duftails, Fig. 5. and
Side-hinges, Fig. 6. &c. is. (the fhape confidered)
in all refpects the fame I have here fhewed you
in Croſs-Garnets; but in theſe (or others) you
may (if your Work require Curiofity) inftead
of Doubling for the Joint, Forge the Round for the
Joint of full Iron, and afterwards Drill a Hole
through it, for the Pin-hole; and by curious Fi-
ling, work them fo true into one another, that
both fides of the Hinge fhall feem but one Piece;
as I fhall fhew more at large, when I come to
the making of Compaffes, and other Joints for
Mathematical Inftruments.
A
Of Locks and Keys.
S there are Locks for ſeveral Purpoſes, as
Street-door Locks, called Stock-Locks; Cham-
ber-door Locks,called Spring-Locks, Cupboard-Locks,
Cheft-Locks, Trunk-Locks, Pad-Locks, &c. So
are there feyeral Inventions in Locks, I mean, in
the
SMITHING.
23
the Making and Contriving their Wards, or
Guards. But the Contrivances being almoft in-
numerable, according to the various Fancies of
Men, fhall be referred to another Time to dif-
courfe; and I fhall now fhew you the Working
of a Spring-Lock, which when you know how
to do, your Fancy may play with Inventions, as
you beft like.
In Fig. 2. A A A A the Main-plate, BC the Key-
hole. EDE the Top-book, EE Crofs-wards, F
the Bolt, G the Bolt-Toe, or Bolt-Nab. H the
Draw-back Spring, I the Tumbler, K the Pin of
the Tumbler, LL the Staples.
In Fig. 3. AAAA the Cover-Plate, B the Pin,
BCD the Main-ward, DD Cross-wards, E the
Step-ward or Dap-ward.
In Fig. 4. A the Pin-hole, B the Step, or Dap-
ward, C the Hook-ward, D the Middle, or
Main Cross-ward, EE the Crofs-ward, F the
Main-ward, GG Croſs-ward, H the Shank, I
the Pot, or Bread, K the Bow-ward, Lthe Bow,
BCDEEFGG the Bit.
First, Cut out of an Iron Plate with a Cold-
Chiſſel, the Size and Shape of the Main-Plate, as
you were taught to cut the Cross and Tail-piece of
the Cross-Garnet; then confider what Depth you
intend the Bit of the Key fhall have, and fet that
Depth off on the Main-Plate, by leaving about
half an Inch of Plate between the Bottom of the
Key-bole, and the Lower Edge of the Main-Plate,
as at C (or more or lefs, according to the Size of
the Lock.) Then meaſure with a Pair of Compaſſes
between the Bottom of the Bit, and the Centre of
your Key (or your intended Key) and fet that di-
tance off from C to B, near the Middle between
the two Ends of the Main-Plate,and with the (a)
Prick-punch, make there a Mark to fet one Foot of
your Compaffes in, then opening your Compaffes to
the Middle of the Bit of your intended Key, as
to
24
SMITHING.
to D, defcribe the Arch EDE for the true Place
the Top-boop muft ftand on.
Then cut one other Piece of Plate as AAA A
in Fig. 3. for a Cover-plate, with two Pieces one
on each fide, long enough to make Studs of to
turn downwards, and then outward again as F F,
GG, that the Cover-plate may ftand off the Main-
plate, the Breadth of the Bit of the Key; and at
the two End of theſe Studs Punch holes, as G G,
to Rivet the Cover-plate into the Main-plate. In
the Middle of this Plate make the Centre, as at B,
then open your Compaffes to three Quarters the
Length of the Bit, and half the Diameter of the
Shank of the Key, and placing one Foot in the
Point B, defcribe with the other Foot the Arch
DCD for the true Place of the Main-ward,then
fet your Compaffes to a little more than half the
Diameter of the Shank, and place one Foot (as
before) in the Centre B, and with the other Foot
defcribe the fmall Arch E, for the true Place the
Step-ward, or (as fome call it) the Dap-ward muft
ftand: So have you the true Places of the Wards,
for ano rdinary Spring-Lock; you may (if the
Depth of your Bit will bear it) put more Wards in
your Plates. But you muſt note, that the more
Wards you put in, the weaker you make your Key;
becaufe that to every Ward on the Plates, you
muſt make a Slit, or Ward in the Bit of the Key;
and the more Wards you make, the weaker the
Iron of the Bit will be; and then if the Bolt
ſhoot not eaſily backwards, or forwards, the Bit
may be in Danger of Breaking.
Having marked on your Plates the Places of
all your Wards, you must take thin Plate, and
with Hammering and Filing make them both (b).
Hammer-bard,and of equal Thickneſs all the way.
Then file one Edge very ftraight, by laying a
Araight Ruler juft within the Edge of it,and draw-
ing, or racing with a Point of hardned Steel, a
bright Line by the fide of the Rulers File away
the
SMITH IN G.
25
the Edge of the Plate to that Line, then draw
(as before) another ftraight Line Parallel to the
firſt ſtraight Line, or which is all one, Parallel
to the filed Edge, juft of the Breadth
you intend
the Wards fhall be, and file as before, only, you
muſt leave two, or fometimes three Studs upon
this Plate, one near each End, and the other in
the Middle, to Rivet into the Main-plate, to keep
the Ward fixt in its Place. Therefore
Therefore you muſt
take care when you elect this thin Piece of Plate,
that it be broad enough for the Ward, and thefe
Studs too. Then laying the Plate a-thwart the
Pike of the Bickern, hold your Hand even with
the Face of the Bickern, and hammer this Plate
down ſomewhat by the fide of the Pike, and by
Degrees you may (with care taken) bring it unto
a circular Form, juſt of the Size of that Circle
you deſcribed on the Main-plate; which when
you have done, you muft apply this Ward to
the Circle you deſcribed on the Main-plate;
fetting it in the Pofition you intend it fhall be
fixed, and marking with a Steel Point where the
Studs ftand upon that Circle, in thoſe marks Punch
holes to Rivet the Studs to. Work ſo by all the
other Wards.
If you have a Pin to the Lock, Punch a Hole
through the Centre on the Cover-plate, fomewhat
fmaller than the Wyre you are to make your Pin
of, becauſe you may then file one End of the
Pin away to a Shank, which muft fit the fmaller
Hole on the Plate, and the whole Thickneſs of
the Pin will be a Sholder, which will keep the
Pin ſteddy in the Centre-bole of the Plate, when
the Pin is rivetted into the Plate. But becauſe
there is fome Skill to be uſed in Rivetting, I
fhall, before I proceed any farther, teach you
The
26
SMITH I NG.
The manner of Rivetting.
Ivetting is to batter the Edges of a Shank ơ-
ver a Plate, or other Iron, the Shank is let
into, fo as the Plate, or other Iron, may be
clinched clofe, and fixed between the Battering
at the End of the Shank and the Sholder. So that
,
When you Rivet a Pin into a Hole, your Pin
muft have a Sholder to it thicker than the Hole
is wide, that the Sholder flip not through the
Hole, as well as the Shank; but the Shank of the
Pin must be exactly of the Size of the Hole the
Shank muſt be Rivetted into, and fomewhat
longer than the Plate is thick; file the End of the
Shank flat, fo fhall the Edges of the End, the ea-
filier batter over the Plate; then put your Shank
into the Hole, wherein it is to be Rivetted, but
be fure you force the Shank cloſe up to the
Sholder; then turn the Top of this Sholder down-
wards (Plate and all) upon your Stake, but lay
it fo, as that the Sholder lie folid, and the Shank,
at the fame time, ftand directly upright, and
with your left Hand, keep your Work bearing
hard upon the Flat, or Face of the Stake. Then
holding your Hammer in your Right-hand, hold
the Edge of the Face of it Dripping a-flope from
the Right-hand outwards, and lay pretty light
Blows upon the Edge of the End of the Shank,
turning with your Left-hand your Work round
to the Face of the Hammer, till you have battered
the Edges of the Shank quite round about; but
this is feldom done, with once turning your
Work about; therefore you may thus work it
round again and again, till you find it is pretty
well Rivetted; then lay heavier Blows upon it,
fometimes with the Face, fometimes with the Pen
of the Hammer, till the End of the Shank is bat-
tered effectually over the Plate.
One main Confideration in Rivetting is, that
the Pin you rivet in, ſtand upright to the Plate,
PL
SMITHING.
27
or other Iron you rivet it upon; for if it do not
ftand upright, you will be forced to fet it up-
right, after it is rivetted, either in the Vice, or
with your Plyers, or with your Hammer, and that
may, if your Plate be thin, bow it, or if it be
thick,break the Shank, or elfe the Sholder of your
Rivet, and ſo you loſe your Labour, and ſome-
times ſpoil your Work.
Another Confideration is, that when you rivet
a Pin to any Plate, and you fear it may after-
wards twift about by fome force that may be
offered it, you muft, to provide against this
Danger, file the Shank you intend to Rivet, ei-
ther Square, or Triangular, and make the Hole
in the Plate you rivet it into, of the fame Size
and Form, and then rivet in the Shank, as be-
fore. There are two ways to make your Hole,
Square or Triangular, one is by filing it into
theſe Forms, when it is firft Punched round
the other by making a Punch of Steel, of the Size
and Shape of the Shank you are to rivet, and
punching that Punch into the Plate, make the
fame Form.
Now to return where I left off. The Pins and
Shanks of theſe Wards muſt be made of a long
Square Form, becauſe, (the Plates of the Wards
being thin) fhould you make them no broader
than the Plate is thick, the Studs, or Shanks
would be too weak to hold the Wards, therefore
you muſt make the Rivetting-fhank three or four
times, or ſometimes more, as broad as the Plate
is thick, and then rivet them in, as you were
taught juft now,
Then place the Cover-plate upon the Main-
plate, fo as the Centre of the Cover-plate, may ftand
directly over and againſt the Centre of the Main-
plate, and make marks through the Hole GG,
of the Studs of the Cover-Plate upon the Main-
plate, and on thoſe Marks Punch holes, and fit
two Pins into them, to faften the Cover-plate on to
the
28
SMITHING.
the Main-plate, but you must not yet rivet them
down, till the Key-bole be made, becauſe this
Cover-plate would then ftop the Progreſs of the
File through the Main-plate, when you file the
Key-hole. When you have placed the Cover-plate
upon the Main-plate, and fitted it on with Pins,
fo, as you may take it off, and put it on again,
as your Work may require, you muſt Punch the
Key-bole, or rather drill two Holes cloſe by one
another, if the Key-hole falls near the Wards, be-
caufe Punching may be apt to fet the Wards out
of Form, and with fmall Files, file the two Holes
into one another, to make the Hole big enough
to come at it with bigger Files, and then file
your Key-hole to your intended Size and Shape.
The Key-bole being finiſhed, forge your Key,
as you were taught, Page 7. and if your Key
is to have a Pin-bole, drill the Hole in the
Middle of the End of the Shank, then file the
Wards, or Slits in the Bit with thin Files; yet
fometimes Smiths Punch, or cut them with a
Cold-Chiffel,at the fame Diſtances from the Middle
of the Pin-hole in the End of the Shank (which
is the fame Centre, which was made before, in the
Main-plate on the Cover-plate) which you placed
the Wards at, from the Centre of the Main and
Cover-plate. But before you file thefe Wards too
deep into the Bit of the Key, make Trials, by
putting the Bit into the Key-hole, whether the
Wards in the Bit, will agree with the Wards on
the Plates, which if they do, you may boldly
cut them to the Depth of the Wards on the Plate
if not, you muſt alter your Courſe till they do;
but you muſt take great Care in Cutting the
Wards down ftraight, and fquare to the Sides of
the Bit; for if they be not cut down ftraight,
the Wards on the Plates, will not fall in with
the Wards in the Bit of the Key; and if they be
not Square to the Sides of the Bit, the Bit will
not only be weaker than it need be, but it will
;
fhew
SMITHING.
29
thew unhandſomely,and like a Botch to the Eye.
The Croß and Hock-wards is made, or, at leaſt,
entred at the Forge, when the Iron hath a Blood,
or almoft a Flame Heat, yet fometimes Smiths do
it on cold Iron, with a thin Chiffel, as you was
taught Page 11. 12. But you must take care
that your Chiffel be neither too thick, or too
broad, for this Punching of Wards is only to give
the thin Files Entrance to the Work; which
Entrance when you have, you may eaſily file
your Croß, or Hook-wards, wider or deeper,as your
Work may require; but if your Chiffel be too
broad, or too thick, it will make the Wards in the
Bit too long, or too wide, and then (as I faid
before) the Bit of your Key will prove weaker
than it needs to be.
Having made the Wards on the Plate, and in
the Bit of the Key, you muft Forge the Bolt of a
confiderable Subftance, Thick and Square at the
End that ſhoots into the Staple in the Frame of
the Door, that it may be ftrong enough to guard
the whole Door; but the reft of the Bolt that lies
between the two Staples on the Main-plate, may
be made very thin inwards, that is, the Side that
lies towards the Main-plate,which becauſe it can-
not be ſeen when the Bolt is fixed upon the Plate,
I have made a Figure of it, and turned the Infide
to View, as in Fig. 4. where you may fee, that
the End A, hath a confiderable Subftance of
Iron to guard the whole Door, as aforeſaid, and
B is a Square Stud, which doth as well keep the
Outfide flat of the Bolt on the Range, as ferve for
a Stud for the Spring H in Fig. 2. to prefs hard
againft, and fhoot the Bolt forwards: This Bolt
muſt be wrought ſtraight on all its Sides, except
the Topfide, which must be wrought ftraight
only as far as the Sholder G, called the Toe, or
Nab of the Bolt, which rifes, as you fee in the
Figure, confiderably high, above the Straight
on the Top of the Bolt: The Office of this Nab,
is
30
SMITHING.
is to receive the Bottom of the Bit of the Key,
when in turning it about, it ſhoots the Bolt back-
wards or forwards.
Having forged and filed the Bolt, you muſt fit.
the Hollow-fide of it towards the Main-plate,
at that Diſtance from the Key-hole, that when
the Key is put into the Key-hole, and turned
towards the Bolt, the Bottom of the Bit may fall
almoſt to the Bottom of the Nab, and fhoot the
Bolt back fo much, as it needs to enter the Staple
in the Door-frame. And having found this true
Place for the Bolt, you muſt with fquare Staples,
juft fit to contain the Bolt with an eafie Play,
faften theſe Staples,by Rivetting them with the Bolt
within them, one near the Bolt end, the other
near the Nab end, as at LL to the Main-plate.
Then Punch a pretty wide Hole in the Main-
plate, as at K, to receive a ftrong Pin, and file
a Sholder to the Shank of the Pin that goes into
the Plate. This Pin is called the Pin of the Tumbler;
the Tumbler is marked I, which is a long Piece
of Iron, with a round Hole at the Top to fit the
Pin of the Tumbler into, that it may move upon
it, as on a Joint, and it hath an Hook returning
at the Lower End of it, to fall into the Breech
of the Bolt, and by the Spring H forces the Bolt
forwards, when it is fhot back with the Key.
This Spring is made of Steel, and afterwards
temper'd (as I fhall fhew you in proper Place.)
It is fixed at the Bottom of the Main-plate, by
two fmall Shanks proceeding from that Edge of
the Spring that lies againft the Main-plate, as at
00: Theſe Shanks are to be rivetted (as you
were taught even now) on the other Side of
the Main-plate.
All things being thus fitted, punch an Hole on
each Corner of the Main-plate for Nails to enter,
that muſt nail the Lock to the Door. Or if you
intend to ſcrew your Lock on the Door,you muft
make wide Holes, big enough to receive the
Shank
SMITHING.
3I
Skank of the Screw. Laft of all, rivet down your
Cover-plate to the Main-plate, and file your Key,
and polish it too, if you will; fo fhall the Lock
and Key be finiſhed.
(a) A Prick-punch,is a Piece of temper'd Steel,
with a round Point at one End, to prick a round
Mark in cold Iron.
(b) Hammer-hard,is when you harden Iron, or
Steel, with much hammering on it.
The
The making of Screws and Nuts.
He Shank of the Screw for Doors,and many
other Purpoſes, muft be forged fquare near
the Head,becauſe it muſt be let into a Square-hole,
that it may not twiſt about when the Nut is
turned about hard upon the Screw-pin. Therefore.
take a Square-bar, or Rod of Iron, as near the
Size of the Head of the Screw-pin as you can, and
taking a Flame-heat of it, lay fo much of this Bar
as you intend for the Length of the Shank, with
one Square-fide fiat, upon the Hither-fide of the
Anvil, and hammer it down to your intended
Thickneſs: But have a care you do not ftrike
your Iron on this Side the Edge of the Anvil,
left you cut the Iron,as I told you Page 11. Thus,
at once, you will have two Sides of your Shank
forged; the Under-fide made by the Anvil, and
the Upper-fide beaten flat with the Hammer:
The Head will be in the main Rod of Iron; then
if your Iron grows cold, give it another Heat,
and lay one of the unwrought Sides upon the
Hither-fide of the Anvil, juft to the Head, and
hammer that down, as before, fo fhall the two
other Square-fides be made; then hammer down
the Corners of fo much of this Shank, as you in-
tend for the Screw-pin, and round it, as near as
you can, with the Hammer; fet then the Chiffel
to the Thickneſs you intend the Head fhall have,
and ſtrike it about half through, then turn the
Sides fucceffively, and cut each Side alfo half
through, till it be quite cut off. If the Sholder be
not ſquare enough, hold it in your Square-nos'd
Tongs,
32
SMITH IN G.
Tongs, and take another Heat', and with ſpeed
(left your Work cool) fcrew the Shank into the
Vice, fo as the Sholder may fall flat upon the Chaps
of the Vice; then hammer upon the Head, and
fquare the Sholder on two Sides, do the like for
fquaring the other two Sides. This was,in part,
taught you before, in Page 11. but becaufe
the cutting this Iron Rod, or Bar, juſt above the
Sholder makes the Head, and for that I did not
mention it there, I thought fit (fince the Purpoſe
required it) to do it here: The Forging of the
Nuts are taught before, Page 11. 12.
Having forged and filed your Shank fquare, and
the Head either Square or Round, as you intend
it fhall be, file alfo the Screw-pin, from the Ri-
fings and dents left at the Forge; and file it a little
Tapering towards the End, that it may enter the
Screw-plate; the Rule how much it muſt be Ta-
pering is this, confider how deep the Inner Groo-
ves of the Screw-plate lie in the outer Threds, and
file the End of the Screw-pin fo much fmaller than
the reſt of the Screw-pin, for the outer Threds of
theScrew-plate muft make the Grooves on the Screw-
pin, and the Grooves in the Screw-plate, will make
the Threds on the Screw-pin. Having fitted your
ſelf with a Hole in your Screw-plate (that is,
fuch a Hole whoſe Diameter of the hollow Groc-
ves, fhall be equal to the Diameter of the Screw-
pin, but not fuch a Hole, whofe Diameter of
the outer Threds, fhall be equal to the Diameter
of the Screw-pin, for then the Screw-plate will
indeed turn about the Screw-pin, but not cut any
Grooves, or Threds in it) Screw the Shank with the
Head downwards in the Vice, fo as that the Screw-
pin may ftand directly upright, and take the
Handle of the Screw-plate in your Right-hand,and
lay that Hole flat upon the Screw-pin, and prefs it
very hard down over it, and turn the Screw-plate
evenly about with its Handle towards you,from the
Right towards the Left-hand, fo fhall the outer
Threds
SMITHING.
33
Threds of the Screw-plate cut Grooves into the Screw-
pin, and the ſubſtance of the Iron on the Screw-
pin, will fill up the Grooves of the Screw-plate, and
be a Thred upon the Screw-pin. But take this for
Caution, that, as I told you, you muſt not make
your Screw-pin too fmall, becauſe the Screw-plate will
not cut it, fo if you make it too big (if it do en-
ter the Screw-plate where it is Taper) it will en-
danger the breaking it, or, if it do not break it,
yet the Screw-plate will, after it gets a little below
the Tapering, go no farther, but work and wear
off the Thred it made about the Tapering.
To fit the Pin therefore to a true fize, I, in my
Practife, ufe to try into what bole of the Screw-
plate, the Tap or place of the Tap, (if it be a ta-
pering Tap, I make the Nut with, will juſt flide
through; (Threads and all;) (which generally in
moſt Screw-plates is the hole next above that to be
ufed) for then turning my Pin about in that bole,
if the Pin be irregularly filed, or but a little too
big on any part of it, the Threds of that Hole will
cut finall marks upon the Pin, on the irregular
places, or where it is too big; fo that afterwards
filing thofe Marks juſt off, I do at once file my
Pin truly round, and finall enough to fit the H le
I make my Screw-pin with.
As the Hole of the Screw plate muſt be fitted to
the Screw-pin, fo muſt the Screw-tap that makes the
Screw in the Nut, be fitted to to the round bole
of the Nut; but that Tap muſt be of the fame fize
of your Screw-pin too, which you may try by the
fame bole of the Screw-plate you made the Screw-
pin with. Screw the Nut in the Vice directly flat,
that the bole may ſtand upright, and put the Screw-
tap upright in the hole, then if your Screw-tap
have an handle, turn it by the handle hard round
in the Hole, fo will the Screw-tap work it felf into
the Hole, and make Grooves in it to fit the Threds of
C
the
34
SMITHING.
the Screw-pin. But if the Screw-tap have no ban
dle, then it hath its upper end filed to a long fquare,
to fit into an hollow fquare, made near the handle
of the Screw-plate; but that long fquare hole, o-
ver the long fquare on the top of the Tap, and
then by turning about the Serew-plate, you will al-
fo turn about the Tap in the hole, and make Grooves
and Threds in the Nut.
But though finall Screws are made with Screw-
plates, yet great Screws, fuch as are for Vices, Hot-
Preffes, Printing-Preffes, &c. are not made with
Screw-plates, but must be cut out of the main Iron,
with heavy blows upon a Cold-Chiljel. The man-
ner of making them, is as follows.
The Rules and manner of Cutting Worms upon great
Screws.
TH
THE Threds of Screws, when they are bigger
than can be made in Screw-plates, are call'd
Worms. They confift in length, breadth and
depth; the length of a Worm begins at the one
end of the Spindle, and ends at the other; the
breadth of the Worm, is contain'd between any
two Grooves on the Spindle, viz. The upper and un-
der Groove of the Worm, in every part of the
Spindle; the depth of the Worm, is cut into the
Diameter of the Spindle, viz. The depth, between
the outſide of the Worm, and the bottom of the
Groove.
The depth ought to be about the one feventh
part of the Diameter, on each fide the Spindle:
You ought to make the Groove wider than the
Worm is broad, becauſe the Worm being cut out
of the fame intire piece with the Spindle, will be
as ftrong as the Worm in the Nut, tho' the Worm
on the Spindle be finaller; for you cannot come
at the Worm in the Nut, to cut it with Files, as you
may the Spindle, and therefore you muſt either
Turn
SMITHING.
35
Turn up a Rod of Iron, to twiſt round about the
Grooves on the Spindle, and then take it off, and
Braze it into the Nut, or elſe you muſt Caft a Nut
of Brass upon the Spindle, which will neither way
be ſo ſtrong as the Worm cut out of the whole
Iron, by fo much as Brafs is a weaker Mettal than
Iron, and therefore it is that you ought to allow
the Worm in the Nut, a greater breadth than the
Worm on the Spindle, that the ftrength of both
may, as near as you can, be equaliz'd; for both
being put to equal force, ought to have equal
ftrength. The Worm may very well be the one
ſeventh part ſmaller than the Groove is wide, as
aforefaid.
Having confider'd what breadth the Worm on
the Spindle fhall have, take a fmall thin Plate of
Brafs, or Iron, and file a fquare notch at the end
of it, just fo wide, and fo deep, as your Worm is
to be broad and deep, and file the fides of the Plate
that this notch ftands between, juft to the width
of the Groove. This Plate, muſt be a Gage to file your
Worm and Groove to equal breadth by; then draw
a ſtraight and upright Line the whole length of the
Spindle; divide from this line the Circumference
of the whole Spindle into eight equal Parts, and
through thofe Divifions, draw feven Lines more
parallel to the firft Line; then open your Com-
paffes juft to the breadth of one Worm, and one
Groove, and fet off that diſtance as oft as you can,
from the one end of the Spindle to the other, (but
I ſhould first have told you, that the end of your
Spindle muſt be fquare to the outſide) and with a
Prick-Punch, make a mark to every ſetting off on
that line: Do the like to all the other straight
upright Lines. Note, that you may chufe one of
theſe eight upright Lines for the firſt, and make
the next towards your left Hand, the fecond (but
then the firſt muſt ſtand towards you) and the
C 2
next
36
SMITHING.
next that, the third, and fo on. And the top
mark of every one of thefe upright ftraight
Lines, fhall be call'd' the firſt Mark, the next un-
der that the fecond Mark, the third, the third
Mark, and fo downwards in Order and Num-
ber.
Having marked one of theſe eight Lines at the
top of the Spindle, to begin the winding of the
Worm at, with a Black-lead Pencil, draw a line
from that Mark to the fecond Mark, on the next
upright Line towards the left hand, from thence
continue drawing on with your Pencil to the third
Mark, on the third upright Line, draw on ftill to
the fourth Mark, on the fourth upright Line,
and fo onwards, till you have drawn over the
eight ſtraight Lines, which when you have done,
you muſt ſtill continue on, drawing downwards
to each lower Mark on each fucceffive upright
Line, till you have drawn your Worm from end
to end: Then examine, as well as you can, by
your Eye, whether the Worm you have carried on
from Mark to Mark with the Black-led Pencil,
do not break into Angles, which if it do any
where, you must mend it in that place: Then
with the edge of an' balf-round File, file a finall
Line in the Black-lead Line, and be ſure that the
Line you are filing, run exactly through all the
Marks that the Black-lead Pencil fhould have run
through (if it did not, for want of good gui-
dance of the Hand.) This fmall Line is only for a
guide to cut the Groove down by; for the making
of a Screw is, indeed nothing elfe, but the cut-
ting the Groove down, for then the Worm remains:
But you muſt not file in this fmall line, but leave
it as a guide to lie on the middle of the Worm
(as I faid before): Therefore to cut down the
Groove, take a Cold Chiffel, fomewhat thinner than
you intend the Groove fhall be wide, viz about
the
SMITHING.
3.7
the thickneſs of the breadth of the Worm, and,
with heavy blows, cut out the Groove pretty near.
The reaſon why you ſhould not offer to cut the
Grooves to their full wedth at the firft, is, becaufe
your Hand may carry the Cold-Chiffel fomewhat
awry, and fhould yonr Cold-Chiffel be as thick as
the Groove is wide, you could not finooth the Ir-
regularities out, without making the Worm nar-
rower than you intended it: Then with a Flat-file
open and ſmooth the Groove, filing in the middle
between the two next fine Lines cut by the half-
round File, till you have wrought the Spindle from
end to end, fo fall the Worm remain. But you
muſt not expect, that though the Groove be cut,
it is therefore finiſhed, for now you muſt begin to
uſe the thin Plate-Gage, and try firſt, whether the
Worm have equal breadth all the way. Secondly,
whether the Grove have equal breadth all the way.
And Thirdly, whether the Groove have equal
depth all the way; and where ever you find the
Worm too broad, you must file it thinner, and
where the Groove is not deep enough, file it deep-
er; therefore in cutting down the Groove you may
obferve, that if, at first, you file the Worm never
fo little too narrow or the Groove never fo
little too deep, you fhail have all the reft of
the Worm or Groove to file over again; becauſe the
whole Worm must be brought to the breadth of
the ſmalleſt part of it, and the whole Groove to
the depth of the deepeſt place all the way, efpe-
cially if the Nut be to be Cast in Brafs upon the
Spindle; becauſe the Mettal running cloſe to the
Spindle will bind on that place, and not come off
it; but if the Nut be not to be Caft in Brass, but
only hath a Worm brazed into it, this nicenefs is
not fo abfolutely neceffary, becauſe that Worm is
frit Turned up, and bowed into the Grooves of
the Spindle, and you may try that before it is
C 3
Brazd
38
SMITH IN G.
Braz'd in the Nut, and if it go not well about,
you may mend, or botch it, either by Hammering
or Filing, or both.
The manner of Cafting the Nut upon the Spin-
le, I fhall fhew when I come to the Cafting of Met
tals, and the manner of Brazing hath been Taught
already. Num. I. fol. 12, 13.
If your Spindle is to have three or four Worms
winding about it, as Coining-Preffes and Printing-
Preſſes have, that they may not wear out too faſt,
you muſt divide the Circumference into three or
four equal Parts, and having ftraight upright
Lines, drawn as before, begin a Worm at each of
thoſe three, or four Divifions, on the Circumfe-
rence, and confidering the breadth of your Worm
and width of your Groove, meaſure that width as
oft as you can on all the upright Lines, and ma-
king Marks on thoſe at each Setting off, draw as
before, a Line from the end of the Spindle, on the
firſt upright Line to the Mark below it, which is
the fecond Mark on the fecond upright Line,
from thence to the third Mark, on the third up-
right Line, and fo on to the other end of the
Spindle. Having drawn the firſt Worm, work the
other Worm as this.
Thus much may at prefent fuffice for great
Screws.
}
MECHA
V
R
A
е
F
Fig. 1.
}
C
H
B
M
E
Fig. 4
Fig. 3.
Fig. 5.
Fig. 2.
A
B
Fig.6.
.1
Fig. 7.
69. abv J
་ ་ │
!
SMITHING.
39
MECHANICK EXERCISES
OR,
The Doctrine of Handy-Works
Viz. The making of Jacks and Bullet-Molds,
the twisting of Iron, and Cafe-hardning it,
with the uſe of ſome Tools not treated of be-
fore: Alfo of the feveral forts of Steel, the
manner of Softning, Hardning and Tem
pering them.
LI
F
of Jacks.
IG. 1. is call'd a Worm-Jack. AB the Fore-
fide, AC the Back-fide, A A the Top-piece,
BC the Bottom-piece, altogether the Jack-
frame, EEK the Main-Spindle, NON the
Main-TVheel and Barrel, O the Barrel, D the Wind-
up-piece, faftned into the Barrel, FF the Worm-
wheel Spindle, G the Worm-wheel, Q the Worm-
Nut, Hthe Worm, R the Stud of the Worm-Spindle,
D the Worm-Loop, L the Wind-up-piece, M the
Winch or Winder or Handle, the Iron part is the
Winder, the Wood the Handle, S the Eye of the
Winder, II the Fly, T the Socket of the Fly, V
the Struck-Wheel, X the Stayes or Back fastnings.
Firſt you are to Forge the Jack-frame, and on
the left fide of the Forefide, a Shank for the Stud
of the Worm-pind.e, as you are taught Numb. I.
fol. 8, 9, 10, 11, 12. and then file it as you were
taught Numb. I. fol. 14, 15, 15.
C 4
The
40
SMITHING.
The top and bottom Pieces are let into fquare
holes at the ends of the Fore and Backfide. But
you muſt Forge the top and bottom Pieces with two
fmall Squares towards the ends of them, and two
round ends for Screw-pins, beyond thofe fquares.
The ſmall ſquares are to be fitted into ſquare holes
into the Fore and Backfides, and the round Screw-
pins are to make Screws of, to which a fquare Nut
is to be fitted to draw the top and bottom Pieces
clofe and right up to the infides of the Fore and
Backfides. The manner of Filing of thefe Ends
you were, in part, taught Numb. II. fol. 15, 16.
and Numb. I. fol. 29. but another way is by try-
ing your Work with an Inftrument, call'd by
Workmen, a Square, as you fee defcrib'd in this
Figure.
TH
B
E
D
Of the Square and its Ufe.
A
HE fides ABC are call'd the Outer-fquare;
the fides DEF the Inner-fquare. Its Ufe is
thus. If your Work, as in this
Cafe, be an Onter-fquare, you
muft ufe the Inner-fquare, DEF
to try it by; applying either
the fide ED or DF (but fup-
pofe the fide ED) to one of
the fides of your Work, chufe
the flatteſt and tracft wrought;
if neither of the fides be flat,
make of them flat, as you were
taught Numb. I. fol. 15, 16. if then you find the
fide DF of your Square lie all the way even upon
the adjoining fide of your Work, you may con-
clude thoſe fides are Square; but if the adjoining
fide of your Work comply not all the way with
the adjoining fide of the Square, you muſt file a-
way your Work where the Square rides upon it,
till the whole fide be wrought to comply with
F
[Ind
C
the
SMITHING.
41
the adjoining fide of the Square, that is, till both
the fides of your Work agree with both the fides
of the Squares, when they are appli'd to one
another. Having tried two fides Square, make
à third fide of your Work Square, by applying
one of the fides of the Square to one of thofe fides
of your Work, that are already made fquare, and
as before, try the third untry'd fide, and make
that Square; and by the fame Rule make the
fourth fide fquare.
If the Work you are to file be an hollow fquare,
you muſt apply the outer Square ABC to it, and
try how, when one fide of the Square, is applied
to one fide of your Work, the other fide of your
Work agrees with the other fide of the Square;
which if it do, all is well: But if the Square and
the Work comply not with one another, you muſt
file the Work where it bears the Square off. But
to return where I left.
Having made theſe two ends fquare, you muſt
fit the length of them to the thicknefs of the Fore
and Backfides into which they are to enter, but fo
as the Squares be not full fo long as to come quite
thro' the Fore and Backfides, left when the Nuts
are ſcrew'd on the Screw-pins that are at the ends
of thefe Squares, they fcrew full up to the Squares,
and bear againſt the corners of them; which if
they do, the Nuts will not draw the Fore and Back-
fides cloſe againſt the fhoulder of the Squares, on
the top and bottom Pieces, and then the whole Jack
Frame will not ftand faft and firm together.
But before you fit this Frame thus together, you
muſt confider the Diameter of the Main wheel,
that you may Pnuch round Holes in the Fore and
Backfides to enter the Main-fpindle. Therefore o-
pen your Compafs to half the intended Diameter
of the Main-wheel, and half a quarter, or an
whole quarter of an Inch more for play, between
the
42
SMITH 1 N G.
the Semi-diameter of the main Wheel, and the up-
per flat of the bottom Piece, and fet that diſtance
off from the upper flat of the bottom Piece, on the
Fore and Backfides, and with a round Punch, fome-
what finaller than the intended fize of the main
Spindle, Punch Holes at that fetting off. Your
Punch muſt be fmaller than the main Spindle, be-
cauſe the holes may perhaps not be fo exactly
round, or Punch'd fo truly upright, or perfectly
fmooth as they ought to be; and fhould you make
the holes fo wide at firſt as they need to be, you
could not mend them, without making them
wider. Theſe holes muſt be Punch'd at the Fire
or Forge (as Smiths fay, when they take an Heat
of their Work to Punch it) becauſe the Fore and
the Backfides are too strong (as Smiths fay) that is,
too thick to Punch with the Cold Punch. The
way of Punching them you were taught Numb. I.
fol. 11, 12. Befides a Cold Punch is commonly
made flat at the bottom, and therefore does not
prick an Hole, but cut an Hole (if the Iron be
not too ftrong) for that flat bottom, and the up-
right fide about it, met in an Angle or Edge at
the bottom, which Edge, by the force of the
Hammer, cuts the Iron (if it be not too ftrong)
when it is laid upon a Bolfter, as it is defcrib'd
Numb. I. fol. 12. and fhould you cut out fo much
Iron in the Fore and Backfides, as would entertain
the main Spindle (it being thick) you will make
the Fore and Backfides too wide; therefore as I
faid, the Holes muſt be prickt in the Fore and
Backfides at the Fire or Forge, which with a fharp
pointed Punch is fooner done; nor does pricking
diminish the fubftance or ftrength of the Iron, but
makes it fwell out at the fides, and retain both
fubſtance and ſtrength. The irregularity or ſwel-
ling out that this Punching makes on the flats of
the Fore and Backfides, you muſt Hammer down
again
SMITHING.
43
again with almoſt a Blood-red-heat, I fay, almoſt a
Blood-red-heat; becanfe, fhould you take too great
an Heat, you may make the Fore and Backfides
ſtretch, and fo put the whole Jack-frame out of
order.
Having punch'd the Holes for the main Spindle,
you muſt Punch the Holes in the Fore and Back-
fides for the Worm-wheel Spindle, as you Punch the
Holes for the main Spindle; but theſe muſt be ſmall
Holes, to entertain the fmall Ends or Pins of the
Worm-wheel Spindle.
Thefe Holes thus Punch'd, may perhaps not be
exactly round or fit your fize, nor will they be
fmooth enough within; therefore, with a a Square-
bore, you muſt bopen them wider to your fize,
and that opening them in the infide, will both
round and finooth them.
You muſt alſo Punch a fquare hole towards the
top of the Forefide, for the Shank of the Worm-
Loop.
Then Forge and fit in your Main-wheel Spindle,
and your Worm-wheel Spindle, which Spindles muft
both be exactly ſtraight between the corners of
their two ends (unless you like to have Moldings
for Ornaments on them) and Forge a Square to-
wards the ends of both the Spindles, to fit into a
fquare hole in the middle of the Cross of their
Wheels, and leave ſubſtance enough for a ſhoulder
beyond the fquare, to stop the fquare hole in the
Croſs of the Wheels from fliding farther on the
Spindle, and you muſt leave fubftance of Iron e-
nough to Forge the Nut of the Worm-wheel near
the other end. But in this, and indeed in all
other Forging remember (as I told you Numb. L
fol. 9.) that it behoves you to Hammer or Forge
your Work as true as you can, leaſt it cost you
great pains at the Vice.
Then
44
SMITHING.
Then Forge the Worm-fpindle, which is all the
tway round and ftraight, unleſs you will have
Moldings for Ornaments (as aforefaid) upon
the Shank of it: But you muſt be fure to Forge
fubſtance enough for the Worm to be cut out
of it.
The Main and Worm-wheels are Forg'd round
and flat.
The manner of Forging theſe Wheels (which
in Smith's Language is, Turning up the Wheels) is,
firſt, to draw out a fquare Rod (as you were
taught Numb. I. fol. 9. among the feveral Heats
of Iron) fomewhat thicker than you intend your
Wheel fhall be; but it muſt be almoſt as thin on
one fide, as you intend the inner edge of the
Wheel fhall be, and the oppofite to it above twice
that thickness, for the outer edge of the Wheel :
the reafon you will find by and by. Having
drawn from your fquare Rod a convenient length,
viz. almoſt three times the Diameter of your in-
tended Wheel, you muſt take almoſt a Flame-
beat, and Hammer all along the whole length up-
on the thick edge, fo will you find the long Rod
by this Hammering, turn by degrees rounder and
rounder in, upon the thin edge, which you Ham-
aner'd not upon, till it become a Circle, or pretty
near a Circle. But you must make it fomewhat
more than a Circle, for the ends muſt lap over
one another, that they may be welded upon one
another.
Thus you may ſee the Reaſon for making the
outer edge of the Rod thick, and the oppo-
fite Edge thin; for your Hammering upon the
outer edge only, and not on the inner, makes
the outer edge a great deal thinner, and at the
fame time makes the Wheel broader.
The
SMITHING.
Ar
The Reaſon why I told you, you should draw
fourth the Rod to almoft three times the Dia-
meter of the Wheel, and not to the Geome-
trical proportion; is, becauſe that in Hammer-
ing upon it to make it round, the Rod will
ſtretch fo confiderably, that it will be long enough
to make a Wheel of your intended Diameter
and most commonly fomewhat to fpare. But to
return.
?
Before you take a welding Heat, as by Numb. I.
fol. 9, 10. you muſt flatten the two ends that are
to be welded together, to a little more than half
their thickness, that when they are lapt over one
another, and welded together, they may be no
thicker than the other part of the Wheel.
C
If the Wheel be not turned up fo round, that
with a little labour you may mend them at the
Vice; you muſt with Blood red Heats Hammer them
round upon the Pike or Bickern of the Anvel,
holding with your Tongs the inner edge of the
Wheel upon it, and Hammering upon the outer
edge of the Wheel, till the Wheel be fit for the
Vice: Their infides muſt be divided into four equal
Parts or four Dufftail notches to be fild into
them. The Dufftail notches are cut in the inner
edge of the Wheel, fomewhat more than a quarter
of an Inch deep, and fpreading fomewhat wider
towards the outer edge. The notches are to re-
ceive the four ends of a Cross Forgd fomewhat
thicker towards the ends than the thickneſs of
the Wheel, and muſt be filed outer Dufftails, to let
exactly into the inner Dufftail notches made in the
infide of the Wheel. They must be Forg'd thicker
than the Wheel, becauſe they must batter over
both the flat fides of the Wheel, to keep the Wheel
ſtrong and ſteady upon the Crofs; and fometimes
(for more fecurity) they are brazed into the Wheel
yet that is but feldom) the middle of this Cros
13
40
SMITHING.
is made broad, that when the fquare of the Spin-
dle, it may have ſtrength enough to bear the vio-
lence offered at, as well in winding up the great
weight, that keeps the Wheels in motion, as in the
checking and turning the Jack-winder back, to fet
the Jack a going, when by the winding up, it
may be fubject to ftand ftill, or fometimes, for
want of weight, or elſe for want of Oiling or
fome other accident.
Thefe Wheels thus Forg'd and Filed flat, muft
be divided, the main Wheel commonly into 64
equal parts, and the worm Wheel into 32 equal
parts; but thefe Numbers are not exactly obferv d
by Smiths, for fometimes they make them more
and fometimes lefs, either according to the fize of
their Wheels, or according as they intend their
Wheels fhall go, fwifter or flower about (for the
fewer the Teeth on a Wheel are, the fooner a Wheel
goes about and the more Teeth on a Wheel, the
flower the Wheel goes about) or fometimes as they
have open'd their Compaffes to divide them: For
if by luck, they at first open their Compaflès to
fuch a width, as will juſt meaſure out on a Circle,
(which they deſcribe on the Center of the Wheel
for that purpoſe) their intended number, than
the Wheel Thall have the intended Number of Teeth;
if not, let it ſomewhat fall ſhort, or exceed that
Number, they matter not, but make that Num-
ber of Teeth on the Wheel. And having thus di-
vided the Wheel, they by the fide of a ſtraight Ru-
ler laid to the Center, and every divifion markt
on the Wheel, draw or ſcratch a ſtraight line from
the outer limb of the Wheels, to the Circle, which
Circle (I fhould have told you before) is defcrib'd
at that diſtance from the outer Verge, they in-
tend the Teeth fhall be cut down to. This is in-
deed a rough way of working, but the Office of
a Jack is well enough performed by this rough
Work;
SMITHING.
47
Work; and the ufual prizes fuch, as will fcarce
pay Workmen for better, as they fay.
d
Thefe Wheels thus divided, must be cut down
into thefe Divifions with a Jack-file, the Main-
wheel ſtraight thwart the outer Verge, (which to
fpeak Mathematically, makes an Angle of 90 de-
grees with the flat fides of the Wheel,) and the
Worm-wheel aflope, making an Angle of about
115 degrees with its fides, that is, an Angle of
25 degrees, with a line drawn ſtraight athwart
the outer Edge of the Wheel, and that Teeth of the
Worm-wheel may gather themfelves into the Grooves
of the Worm in the Worm-fpindle; the Worm on the
Worm-fpindle running about 65 degrees aflope from
this Axis, or Perpendicular of the Worm-spindle,
the notches you make with the File must be fo
wide, as to contain about twice the thickneſs of
of each Tooth: Therefore you may obferve, that
the Number of Teeth cannot be affign'd, becauſe
the Sizes of all Jack wheels are not of equal Dia-
meters, and the Sizes of the Teeth must be filed
very fquare and fmooth, as the corners taken off,
and rounded on both ſides towards the middle of
the top or end of the Tooth, which much helps
the Teeth to gather in upon the Teeth of the Nut,
and the Worm on the Worm-spindle.
The Teeth of the Wheels being cut down, and
the whole Wheel finish'd, they must be forc'd ftiff
and hard upon the fquare of the Spindle, clofe up
to the Shoulder; which Square being made fome-
what longer than the Crofs of the Wheel is thick,
muft with a Cold-Chiffel be cut on the top of that
Square, to make the Iron that comes through the
Square hole of the Wheel, fpread over the Cross
of the Wheel, and then that fpreading muſt be
battered with the Pen of the Hammer; that it
may ſtand up ſtiff againſt the fhoulder of the
Square, on the other fide of the Wheel; but in
doing
28
SMITHING.
doing this, you must be very careful that the
Spindle ftand exactly Perpendicular to the flat fides
of your Wheels; for fhould the Spindle lean never
fo little to one, or the other fide of the Wheel, the
the Wheel when it is moving in the Fack-frame
would not move perpendicular, but wabble to
wards the Fore or Backfides of the Jack-frame, and
perhaps by this irregular motion, before a revo-
lution of the Wheel be perform'd, it would go off
from the length of the Teeth of the Nut..
Then file the Spindle-pins (which are the ends of
the Spindle, that go into the Center-holes of the
Fore and Backfides of the Jack-frame) exactly
round and fit to their Center-holes, and place
them into their proper Center holes. Then try
if the Wheels are exactly round on their outer
edges, and that in turning about, their flat fides
wabble not, but in a revolution keep Parallel to
the Fore and Backfides. The way Smiths ufe to
try them by is, to turn them about by the Spindle,
and holding a piece of Chalk fteddy to the outer
Limb of the Wheel, not letting the Point of the
Chalk flip forwards or backwards, or towards the
right or left Hand, for then if the Chalk make a
white ſtroke round the whole Wheel, and that
white ſtroke lie exactly Parallel to the two outer
Edges of the Wheel, the Wheel is not only round,
but ſtands alſo true upon its Spindle, that is, Per-
pendicular to the Spindle, and the Spindle Perpen-
dicular to the flat of it: But if the Chalk does
not touch round the wheel, you muſt file down fo
much of the outer Verge of the Wheel, where the
Chalk does touch, as will bring down or equalize
the Diameter of the wheel in that place, to the
Diameter of the Wheel in the place where it
does not touch; fo you may conclude the Wheel
is round. If the Mark of the Chalk lie not ex-
actly in the middle between the two edges of
the
SMITHIN G.
49
the Wheel, then it is not Perpendicular to the
Spindle, and you muſt with the Hammer fet it
right, that is Perpendicular, by forcing the
Wheel over from the fide it leans too much to, or
elfe by forcing the Spindle, which is all one;
yet this is an help you ought not to rely upon
but in cafe of neceffity; rather be fure your
Wheel and Spindle ftand Perpendicular to one
another, before you faſten the Woeel upon the
fquare of the Spindle, for by this help the fquare
on the Spindle will be apt to loofen in the fquare
of the wheel, and you will have your teel to
new faften upon the Square of the Spindle again.
As you try'd the wheels with Chalk, fo you
muſt try the Nut, the warm and the Spindle.
The upper part of the worm-fpindle, must be Fil'd
truly round to fit into the worm-loop, that it ſhake
not in it, and yet go very easily about, without
the leaſt ſtopping. At the upper end of this
round on the Worm Spindle, you must file a
fquare to fit the fquare hole of the Fly upon.
The Shank of the Worm-loop and the Stud of
the Worm-fpindle, muft ftand fo far off the left
fide of the fore fide, that the Teeth of the Worm-
wheel, may fall full into the Grooves of the worm;
for fo both being cut with the fame flope, the
flope Teeth of the Worm-wheel will gather into
the flope Grooves of the Spindle, and preffing up-
on the Worm, drive about the Worm-spindle and
the Fly.
The Fly is made fometimes with two, fome-
times with four Arms from the Center, and
fometimes the Arms are made longer, fome-
times fhorter: The more Arms, and alfo the
longer Arms, are to make the Jack go flower.
There is yet a fmall matter more of Iron-work
about the Jack, which is the Tumbler; but it lies
in the farther end of the Barrel, and cannot well
D
be
50
SMITHING,
a
b
C
be defcrib'd without a particular Figure, which.
therefore I have inferted. As in Fig. 2. A the
Barrel, В the Main fpindle coming through the
Barrel, the Center of the Tumbler moving up-
on the Center-pin, which is faften'd into an Iron-
plate behind the Barrel. The Coller upon the
Main-Spindle, from which proceeds a Tongue,
which pafles through a pretty wide hole at in
the Tumbler, as far as the Catch of the Tumbler.
ed
The Tumbler moves as aforefaid, upon the Center
hole a, but receives the Tongue through it at,
and pafles as far as . This Tongue ferves as a
Check to the Tumbler, that it cannot tumble above
an Angle of 20 degrees, from the Iron-plate it
is faften'd to; and that the width of its Center-
hole, and the width of the Tongue pafles through,
and the motion of the Coller about the Main-
Spindle allows it; but were the Center-hole a, and
its Center-pin fit, and the Hole, and the Tongue
that alſo paffes through it alſo fit, and the Coller
fixt, it could not inove at all. But this play is
enough for it, to do the purpoſe it is defign d
for. The Tumbler is fo plac d behind the Barrel,
that while the Fack-line is winding up upon the
Barrel, its round britch paffes forwards by all the
Croffes of the Main-wheel, and the Point or Catch &,
as then claps it felf fnug or cloſe to the Iron-
plate of the Barrel: But when the Barrel is turn'd
to the contrary way, the weight of the Catch in
Half a revolution of the Barrel (let the Tumbler
be pofited where it will) makes it open and fall
from the Iron-plate, and butt againft one or other
of the Croffes on the Main-wheel, and fo thrufts
the Main wheel about with the Barrel.
The Eye of the Winch or Winder, is forg'd as
you were taught to forge the Pin-hole in the Cross-
garnet, Numb. II. fol. 18. But that was to be a
fmall round hole, and therefore you were direct-
ly
SMITHING.
Fi
ly to lay a fmall round piece of Iron or Wyre,
where you intended the Pin hole fhould be, and
lap the other end of your Work over it; but
this is to be a wide fquare hole, therefore you
muft lay a fquate piece of Iron of your lize,
where the Eye of the Jack-winch fhall be and lap
or double the other end over it, and Weld and
Work as you were directed. The rest of the winch
is but common Forging and Filing Work, which
hath been fufficiently taught already.
;
The Wood-work belonging to the Jack, is a
Barrel, a Spit-wheel and a Handing of the Winch
which being Turners Work, fhall fay nothing
to, till I come to the Art of Turning. Only
thofe Wheels that have more than one Groove in
them, are call d Two, Three, &c. Struck-wheels;
in Workmens corrupting Language; but I fup-
pofe, originally two Stroak, three Stroak-wheels,
&c. from the number of Grooves that are in
them.
The Excellencies of a good Jack are; 1. That
the Fack-frame be Forg'd and Fild Square, and
conveniently Strong, well ſet together, and will
Screw cloſe and tight up. 2. That the Wheels be
Perpendicularly, and ſtrongly fix'd on the Squares
of the Spindles: 3. That the Teeth be evenly cut
and well ſmooth'd, and that the Teeth of the Worm-
wheel fall evenly into the Groove of the worm.
4. That the Spindle Pins fake not between
the Fore and Backfides, nor are too big, or toơ
little for their Center holes.
a The fquare Bore, is a fquare Steel Point ör
Shank well Temper'd, fitted into a fquare
Socket in an Iron Wimble: It is defcrib'd,
Fig. 3. Its ufe is to open a Hole and make it
truly round and fmooth within; when you
uſe it, you muſt fet the Head againſt your
D 2
Breat
52
SMITHING.
Breaft, and put the Point of the fquare Bore
into the Hole you punch'd or would open,
and turning the Handle about, you with it
turn about the Shank of the Square Bore,
whofe Edges cut away the Irregularities
of the Iron made in the Punching. But yon
muſt thrust or lean hard with your Breaft
againſt the Head of the Square Bore, that it
may cut the faſter: And you muſt be ſure to
guide the fquare Bore truly ftraight forwards
in the Hole, left the Hole be wrought aflope
in the Iron.
To open an Hole, is in Smith's Language, to
make the Hole wider.
A Duffiail, is a Figure made in the form of a
Doves-tail, and is us'd by many other Handy-
crafts, as well as Smiths, but moff eſpecially
by Joyners, as I fhall fhew, when I come to
Joynery.
A Fack-file, is a broad File fomewhat thin on
both Edges, and ſtronger in the Middle.
The manner of making Molds to Caft Leaden-
Bullets in.
I
Infert the making of Bullet molds, becaufe
there is fome fort of Work in them different
from what hath yet been taught. The Handles,
and the Heads are Forgd as other Work, but
the two concave Hemifphers, are firſt Punch'd
with a round ended Punch, of the fhape and al-
moſt of the fize you intend the Bullet fhall
be. They must be Punch d deep enough at the
Forge with a blood red beat; then are the Edges
of the Chaps Filed flat, firft with a common File
the common way, but afterwards with an ufing
File as Workmen call it. The ufing File, is a
Tong and broad File, exactly flat on both its cut
fides, having a fquare Iron handle down out at
one
SMITHING,
53
one end with an hole in it; but the Handle is
not to hold it by when you uſe it, but the hole
in it to go over a pin you hang it upon, when
you do not uſe it. When you ufe it, you muſt
lay it flat upon the Work bench, with its Handle,
from you, and you must take care that it lies fo-
lid and ſteady, left when you Work upon it, it
flip from you; therefore you may ftrike a Nail
in at the hole in the Handle, a little way into
the Work bench, that you may draw it again,
when you have done with the ufing File, you may
drive in a fmall Tack on each fide the ufing File, to
keep it fteddy or you may Tack down two fmall
thin boards on either fide and rip them off again
when you have done. Your ufing File lying thus
ftraight and teddy before you, lay the Chaps of
one half of the Mold flat upon the hither end of
the ufing File, and holding your two Thumbs, and
your two Fore-fingers upon the Head of the
Mold, thrust your Work hard down from you
the whole length of the Ufing-file, then draw
your Work lightly back, and thrust it again hard
from you; retire theſe thrufts thus, till upon the
Chaps of the Mold, you can fee no irregularities,
or the File-ftroaks of the common File left, ſo
may you be fure that the Chaps of the Mold is
truly flat. Do the like by the other half of the
Mold.
Now you muſt try whether each of thefe con-
caves be an exact half-round; thus you may de-
ſcribe an Arch a little more than a Semi-circle,
juft of the Diameter of the Bullet, upon the end
of a thin piece of Brafs-latin, draw a ſtraight
Line through the Center, and the Arch on both
fides it, for the limits of the Semi-circle; File
very curiouſly all the Brafs away on the cnd, juſt
to this Semi-circle, and juft to the Diametral-
D 3
line,
J
54
SMITHING,
line, on either fide of the Semi-circle, fo have
you a convex Semi-circle: Put this convex Semi-
circle into the Concaye Molds, if it fits them fo
as the Convex reaches juft the bottom of the
Molds, wheu its Shoulder touches juſt the Chaps
of the Mold, they are each a true concave He-
mifphere. But if the Shoulder of the Convex
(that is, a Diametral-line prolong'd) rides upon
the Chaps of the Concave, and the bottom of
the Convex touch not the bottom of the Con-
cave, the Concave is Punch'd too deep, and muſt
have its Chaps rubb'd upon the Ufing-file again,
till it comply with the Convex. Then put into
the two Concaves a round Bullet, that will just
fill them both, and pinching the Heads of the
Mold clofe together in a Vice, with the Bullet in
it, drill an hole through both the handles of the
Joint. The reafon why the Bullet is put into the
Mold is, becaufe the Chaps of the two Halves
fhould lie exactly upon one another, whilſt the
hole for the Joint is drilling. Then fit a Rivet-
rin for this hole, and Rivet them together, but
not fo hard, but that the Mold may open and fhut
pretty cafe, and yet go true. Then take the
Bullet out, and File in cach half of the Head,
half a round hole directly againſt one another for
he a Gear, which two half holes, when the Mold
is fhut, will make one round hole.
I
You may now try with Clay, or by cafting a
leaden Bullet in it, whether it be exactly round
or no; for making a true round hole in a thin
piece of Brafs, juft of the Circumference of the
Chaps, you may try if the Caft-bullet will juſt pafs
thro', and alfo fill that hole when the Bullet is
turnd every way, which if it do, you may
conclude the Mold is true. This thin piece of
Brafs, with a round hold in it, is call'da Şizer.
•
But
SMITHING
But the inſide wants cleanfing, for hitherto
it is only Punch'd. Therefore you muſt provide
a b Bullet-bore, with which you may bore the in-
fide of each half to clear it. Or if they be not
quite deep enough Punch'd, you may bore them
deeper. You may bore them ſeverally, or toge-
ther, by putting the Bullet-bore into the Mold, fo
as the Shank may come through the Geat.
In this Section you fee, firft the ufe of a Ufing-
file, an Inftrument of great use for a flat Filing;
for by it you may make two pieces of Iron of
ſomewhat confiderable breadth, fo true, that by
laying the two flat fides upon each other, they
fhall draw up one another. It is much ufed by
Clock-makers, Watch-makers, Letter-mold-makers,
and indeed all others that frame Square-work on
Iron, Steel or Brafs. Secondly, the ufe of a
Bullet-bore, which though it be feldom us'd, yet
it may ferve not only for Bullet-molds, but for
other purpoſes; and by altering its fhape into an
Oblong, a Cone or Cilinder, you may bore theſe
hollow Figures either for Molds, or fome other
accidental Ufes.
?
}
A Geat, is the hole through which the Met-
pal runs into the mold. The Word is us'd by
moft Founders.
b The Bullet-bore, is a Shank of Steel, having a
Steel Globe or Bullet at one end, juſt of your
intended Bullet fize. This Globular end
muſt be Hatch'd with a fine cut, by a File-
cutter, and Harden'd and Temperd. The
end of the Shank, this Globular Bore is
faftned to, muſt be round and fo finall, that
when the Bullet-bore is in the mold, the Geat
will eaſily receive it, The other end of the
Shank must be fitted into the fquare Socket
of the Wimble, and have a Shoulder to it,
D 3
to
ނ
56
SMITHING.
to ſtop the Socket from fliding too far upon
the Shank From this Shoulder, the rest of
the Shank muſt run Tapering down, to the
fmall end the Bullet-bore is faftned to. You
muft Work with it, as you were taught to
Work with the Square-bore.
Of Twisting of the Iron.
Saited for
It is very
Quare and flat Bars, fometimes are by Smiths,
Twiſted for Ornament. It is very eaſily done
for after the Bar is Square or flat Forg'd (and if
the curiofity of your Work require it truly Fil'd)
you muſt take a Flame-beat, or if your Work be
finall, but Blood-red beat, and you may twift it
about, as much or as little as you pleafe, either
with the Tongs, Vice or Hand-vice, &c.
CA
Of Cafe-hardning.
Afe-bardning is fometimes us'd by File-cutters,
when they make courfe Files for Cheapnefs,
and generally moft Rafps have formerly been made
of Iron and Cafe-bardned, becauſe it makes the
outſide of them hard. It is us'd alfo by Gun.
miths, for Hardning their Barrels; and it is
us'd for Tobacco-boxes, Cod-piece-buttons, Heads for
Walking-ftaves, &c. And in thefe Cafes, Work-
men to fet a greater value on them in the Buyers
efteem, call them Steel-barrels, Steel-tobacco-boxes,
Steel-buttons, Steel-heads, &c. But Iron thus
hardned takes a better Poliſh and keeps the Po-
lifh much longer and better, than if the Iron
were not Cafe hardned. The manner of Cafe-
bardning is thus, Take Cow-born or Hoof, dry it
thoroughly in an Oven, and then beat it to Pow-
der, put about the fame quantity of Bay-Salt to it,
and mingle them together with ftale Chamberly,
or elfe White-wine-vinegar. Lay fome of this
mixture upon the Loam, made as you were
taught
SMITHING.
57
taught Numb.1. fol. 13. And cover your Iron all
over with it; then wrap the Loam about all, and
lay it upon the Hearth of the Forge to dry and
harden: When it is dry and hard, put it into
the Fire and blow up the Coals to it, till the
whole Lump have just a Blood-red-beat, but no
higher, left the quality of your mixture burn
away and leave the Iron as foft as at firft. Then
take it out and quench it: Or, inftead of Loam,
you may wrap it up in Plate Iron, fo as the mix-
ture may touch every part of your Work, and
blow the Coals to it, as aforefaid.
of feveral forts of Steel in common uſe among
Smiths.
THE
HE difficulty of getting good Steel makes
many Workmen (when by good hap they
light on it) commend that Country-Steel for
beft, from whence that Steel came. Thus I
have found fome cry up Flemish-fteel, others Swe-
difh, English, Spanish, Venice, &c. But according
to my Obfervation and common Confent of the
moſt ingenious Workmen, each Country pro-
duces almoſt indifferently good and bad; yet
each Country doth not equally produce fuch Steel,
as is fit for every particular purpoſe, as I fhall
fhew you by and by. But the feveral forts of
Steel, that are in general ufe here in England,
are the English, the Flemish, the Swedish, the
Spanish and the Venice-feel.
The English-steel is made in feveral places in
England, as in Yorkshire, Gloucestershire, Suffex, the
Wild of Kent, &c. But the beft is made about
the Forrest of Dean, it breaks Fiery, with fome-
what a courfe Grain But if it be well wrought
and proves found, it makes good Edge-tools,
Files and Punches. It will work well at the Forge,
and take a good Heat.
The
58
SMITHING.
The Flemish-fteel is made in Germany, in the
Country of Stiermark and in the Land of Luyck:
From thence brought to Colen, and is brought
down the River Rhine to Dort, and other parts
of Holland and Flanders, fome in Bars and fome
in Gads, and is therefore by us call'd Flemish-steel,
and fometimes Gad-fteel. It is a tough fort of
Steel, and the only Steel us'd for Watch-fprings.
It is alſo good for Punches; File-cutters alſo
uſe it to make their Chiffels of, with which
they cut their Files. It breaks with a fine Grain,
works well at the Forge, and will take a weld-
ing Heat..
I cannot learn that any Steel comes from Swe-
den, but from Dantzick comes fome which is
call'd Swedish-fteel: It is much of the fame Qua-
lity and Finefs with Flemish-fteel.
The Spanish-steel is made about Biscay. It is
a fine fort of Steel, but fome of it is very dif
ficult to work at the Forge, becauſe it will not
take a good Heat; and it fometimes proves very
unfound, as not being well curried, that is well
wrought. It is too quick (as Workmen call it)
that is, too brittle for Springs or Punches, but
makes good fine Edg'd-tools.
Venice-fteel is much like Spanish feel, but much
finer, and Works fomewhat better at the
Forge. It is us'd for Razors, Chirurgion's In-
ftruments, Gravers, &c. Becauſe it will come
to a fine and thin Edge. Razor makers gene-
rally clap a fmall Bar of Venice-steel between
two fmall Bars of Flemish-fteel, and fo Work
or Weld them together, to ftrengthen the
back of the Razor, and keep it from crack-
ing:
There
SMITHING.
59
There is another fort of Steel, of higher com-
mendations than any of the forgoing forts. It
is call'd Damafcus-fteel; 'tis very rare that any
comes into England unwrought, but the Turkish-
Cymeters are generally made of it. It is moſt
difficult of any Steel to Work at the Forge, for
you ſhall ſcarce be able to ftrike upon a Blood-
heat, but it will Red-fear; infomuch that theſe
Cymeters are, by many Workmen, thought to
be caft Steel. But when it is wrought, it takes the
fineſt and keeps the ſtrongeſt Edge of any other
Steel. Workmen fet almoſt an ineftimable va-
lue upon it to make Punches, Cold-punches, &c.
of. We cannot learn where it is made, and yet
as I am inform❜d, the Honourable Mr. Boyl hath
been very careful and induſtrious in that en-
quiry; giving it in particular charge to fome
Travellers to Damafcus, to bring home an Ac-
count of it: But when they came thither they
heard of none made there, but were fent about
50 Miles into the Country and then they were
told about 50 Miles farther than that: So that
no certain Account could be gain'd where it is
made. Kirman towards the Ocean affords ve-
ry fine Steel, of which they make Weapons
highly priz'd; for a Cymeter of that Steel, will
cut through an Helmet with an eaſie blow. Geog.
Rect. fol. 279.
BRea
The Rule to know good Steel by.
Reak a little piece of the end of the Rod,
and obferve how it breaks; for good Steel
breaks fhort of all Gray, like froft work Silver.
But in the breaking of the bad you will find
fome veins of Iron fhining and doubling in the
Steel.
of
60
SMITHING.
HAV
Of Nealing of Steel.
Aving chofe your Steel and forg'd it to your
intended fhape, if you are either to File
Engrave or to Punch upon it, you ought to
Neal it first, becauſe it will make it fofter and
confequently work eaſier. The common way
is to give it a Blood-red-heat in the Fire, then
take it out, and let it cool of it ſelf.
There are fome pretenders to know how to
make Steel as foft as Lead; but fo oft as my
Curioſity has prompted me to try their preten-
ded Proceffes, fo oft have they fail'd me; and
not only me, but fome others, careful Obfer.
vers. But the way they moſt boaſt of, is the
often heating the Iron or Steel in red-hot Lead,
and letting it cool of it felf with the Lead. Í
have many times try'd this without any other
fuccefs, than that it does make Iron or Steel as
foft as if it were well Neal'd the common way,
but no fofter: And could it be otherwife, the
finall Iron Ladles, that Letter-founders uſe to
the cafting of Printing Letters, would be very
foft indeed; for their Iron Ladles are kept con-
ſtantly Month after Month in melting Mettal,
whereof the main Body is Lead, and when they
caft fmall Letters, they keep their Mettal red-
hot; and I have known them many times left in
the Mettal and cool with it, as the Fire has gone
out of it felf; but yet the Iron Ladles have
been no fofter, than if they had been well
Neald the common way. But perhaps theſe
Pretenders mean the Iron or Steel fhall be as foft
as Lead, when the Iron or Steel is red-hot; if
fo, we may thank them for nothing.
:
But
SMITHING.
But that which makes Steel a very finall matter
fofter than the common way of Nealing is, by
covering Steel with a courſe Powder of Cow-
Horns, or Hoofs, or Rams-Horns, and fo in-
cloſing it in a Loam: Then put the whole Lump
into a Wooden Fire to heat red-hot and let it
lie in the Fire till the Fire go out of it felf, and
the Steel cool with the Fire.
Of Hardning and Tempering Steel.
E' Nuglas,
Nnglish, Flemish and Swedish-fteel, muſt have
a pretty high heat given them, and then
fuddenly quench in Water to make them very
hard; but Spanish and Venice-steel will need but a
Blood-red-heat, and then when they are quench d
in Water, will be very hard. If your Steel be
too hard, that is to brittle, and it be an edg'd
or pointed Inftrument you make, the edge or
point will be very ſubject to break; or if it be a
Spring, it will not bow, but with the leaſt bend-
ing it will ſnap affunder: Therefore you muſt
let it down (as Smiths fay) that is, make it fofter,
by tempering it: The manner is thus, take a
piece of Grin-ſtone or Whet-ſtone and rub hard
upon your Work to take the black Scurf off it,
and brighten it; then let it heat in the Fire, and
as it grows hotter you will fee the Colour change
by degrees, coming to a light. goldifh Colour,
then to a dark goldifh Colour, and at laft to a
blew Colour; chooſe which of theſe Colours your
Work requires, and then quench it fuddenly in
Water. The light goldifh Colour is for Files,
Cold-chiffels and Punches that Punch into Iron
and Steel: The dark goldiſh Colour for Punches
to uſe on Brafs, and generally for moft Edge-
tools: The blew Colour gives the Temper to
Springs in-general, and is alfo us'd to Beautifie
both Iron and Steel; but then Workmen fome-
times
62
SMITHING:
times grind Indico and Sallad-oyl together, and
rüb that mixture upon it, with a woollen Rag,
while it is heating, and let it cool of it felf.
There is another fort of Hardning, call'd Ham-
mer-bardning, It is moſt us'd on Iron or Steel
Plates, for Dripping pans, Saws, Straight-Rulers,
&c. It is perform'd only, with well Hammering
of the Plates, which both fmooths them, and
beats the Mettal firmer into its own Body, and
fomewhat hardens it.
The manner of Forging Steel, either for
Edge-tools, Punches, Springs, &c. Is (the feve-
ral ſhapes confider'd) the fame with forging Iron:
Only this general Rule obferve, from an old.
English Verfe us'd among Smiths, when they Forge
Edge-tools,
He that will a good Edge win,
Muft Forge thick and Grind thin.
The End of Smithing.
MECHA
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(63)
MECHANICK EXERCISES;
OR,
The Doctrine of Handy-Works
J
The Art of JOINERY.
Definition.
OINERY, is an Art Manual, whereby feve-
ral Pieces of Wood are fo fitted and join'd toge-
ther by Straight-line, Squares, Miters or any
Bevel, that they shall feem one intire Piece.
Explanation.
By Straight-Lines I mean that which in Joy-
ner's Language is call'd a Joint, That is, two
Pieces of Wood are Shot (that is Flained.) or
elſe they are Pared, that is, the irregularities
that hinder the clofing of the two Pieces are cut
off with a Pairing-chiffel. They are Shot or
Pared (as I faid) fo exactly ſtraight, that when
they are ſet upon one another, light fhall not be
difcern'd betwixt them. This they call Shoot-
ing of a Joint, or Paring to a Joint, becauſe
thefe two Pieces are with Glew commonly join'd
together, either to make a Board broad enough
for their purpoſe, or to a Clamp one piece of
Wood to the end of another piece of Wood to
keep it from Cafting or Warping.
By
64
JOINERY
By Squares, I mean the making of Frames, ei
ther for Door-cafes or fuch like, which is the
Framing of two pieces of Wood athwart two
other pieces of Wood, fo as the four Angles of
the Frame may comply with the Square mar-
ked D.
By Miters are meant the joining of two pieces
of Wood, fo as the Joint makes half a Square,
and does comply with the Miter-fquare mar-
ked E.
By a Bevel is meant any other Angle: As
Frames that may be made of Pentagon, Hexagon,
Octagon, &c. Figures.
§ 1. The Names of Joyners Tools defcrib'd, in
A
C
Plate IV.
A Work-bench. b The Hook in it, to lay
Boards of other b Stuff flat againſt, whilſt
they are Trying or Plaining. The Bench-
Screw (on its hither fide) to Screw Boards in,
whilſt the Edges of them are Plaining or d Shoot-
ing; and then the other edge of the Board is fet
upon a Pin or Pins (if the Board be fo long as to
reach the other Leg) put into the Holes marked
a aa aa down the Legs of the Bench; which
Pin or Pins may be removed into the higher or
lower holes, as the breadth of the Board fhall re-
quire: So then, the Bench-fcrew keeps the Board
cloſe to the edge of the Bench, and the Pins in
the Legs keep it to its height, that it may ſtand
fteddy whilft the other edge is working upon:
For in the Shooting of a Joint, if the Board
keeps not its exact pofition, but ſhakes or trem-
bles under the Plain, your Joint will very hardly
be truly ftraight. d The Hold-faſt, let pretty
loofe into round holes marked bbbbbb in the
Bench: Its Office is to keep the Work faſt upon
the Bench, whilft you either Saw, Tennant,
Mor-
JOINERY.
ός
Mortefs, or fometimes Plain upon it, &c. It per-
forms this Office with the knock of an Haminer,
or Mallet, upon the bead of it; for the Beak of it
being made crooked downwards, the end of the
Beak falling upon the flat of the Bench, keeps the
head of the Hold-faft above the flat of the Bench,
and the bole in the Bench the Shank is let into being
bored ſtraight down, and wide enough to let the
Hold-fast play a little, the head of the Hold-fast being
knockt, the point of the Beak throws the Shank
a-flope in the hole in the Bench, and preflès its
back-fide hard againſt the edge of the hole on the
upper Superficies of the Bench, and its fore-fide
hard againſt the opperfite fide of the under Super-
ficies of the Bench, and fo by the point of the Beak,
the Shank of the Hold-faft is wedged between the
upper edge, and its opperfite edge of the round
hole in the Bench. Sometimes a double Screw is
fixed to the fide of the Bench, as at %; or fome-
times its farther Cheek is laid an edge upon the
flat of the Bench, and faſtned with an Hold-faßt,
or, fometimes, two on the Bench. e A Mallet.
BI.
A
§. 2. BBBBBBB Plains of feveral Sorts: as,
Fore Plain a The Tote. b The Mouths.
¿ The Wedge. d The Iron. e The Sole.
f The Fore-end. g The Britch. f g h The Stock.
All together A Plane. It is called the Fore Plane
becauſe it is uſed before you come to work either
with the Smooth Plane, or with the Joynter. The
edge of its Iron is not ground upon the ftraight, as
the Smooth Plane, and the Joynter are, but rifes
with a Convex-Arch in the middle of it; for its
Office being to prepare the Stuff for either the
Smoothing Plane, or the Foynter, Workmen fet the
edge of it Ranker than the edge either of the
Smoothing Plane, or the foynter; and fhould the
Iron of the Plane be ground to a ſtraight edge,
E
and
66
JOINERY.
and it be fet never fo little Ranker on one end of
the edge than on the other, the Ranker end would
(bearing as then upon a point) in working, dig
Gutters on the Surface of the Stuff, but this Iron
(being ground to a Convex-Arch) though it
fhould be fet a little Ranker on one end of its edge
than on the other, would not make Gutters on
the Surface of the Stuff, but (at the moſt)
little hollow dawks on the Stuff, and that more
or lefs, according as the Plane is ground more or
lefs Arching. Nor is it the Office of this Plane to
fmooth the Stuff, but only (as 1 faid) to prepare
it, that is, to take off the irregular Rifings, whe-
ther on the fides, or in the middle, and therefore
it is fet fomewhat Ranker, that it may take the
Irregularities the fooner off the Stuff, that the
Smoothing Plane, or the Foynter, may afterwards
the eaſier work it Try. The manner of Trying
ſhall be taught, when I come to Treat of the uſe
of the Rule.
You muſt note, that as I told yon in Smithing,
Num. I. fol. 14, 15, 16. it was the Office of the
courfe tooth'd File to take off the prominent Irregu-
larities the Hammer made in the Forging, &c. and
that you were not to file them more away than
you need, fo the fame Caution is to be given you
in the uſing of this fore Plane in Joynery, for the
reaſon there alledged in Smithing, whether, to a-
void Repetition, I refer you; only with this Con-
fideration, that there Iron, or Steel, was the mat-
ter wrought upon, and there a courfe File the Tool;
but now Wood is the matter, and a Courfe, or Fore-
Plane, the Toc!.
W
§. 3 Of fetting the Iron.
Hen you fet the Iron of the Fore-Plane, con-
fider the Stuff you are to work upon, viz.
Whether it be hard or foft, or Curling, as Joyners
call
JOINERY.
847
call Croſs grain'd Stuff: If it be bard or curling, you
muſt not fet the Iron veay rank, becauſe a Mans
ſtrength will not cut deep into hard Wood; and if
it be not hard Wood, but curling, or knotty, and the
Iron Rank-fet, you may indeed work with it till
you come to fome Knot, or Curl, but then you
may either tear your Stuff, or break the edge of
your Iron; therefore you may perceive a reafon to
fet the Iron fine for curling, and knotty Stuff.
But if you ask me how rank your Iron ought to
be fet? I anſwer, If your Wood be foft, and your
Stuff free, and frowy, that is, evenly temper'd all
the way, you may fet the Iron to take a fhaving off
the thickneſs of an old coined Shilling, but fcarce
thicker; whereas, if your Stuff be hard, or curling,
or knotty, you ſhall ſcarce be able to take a fha-
ving off the thickneſs of an old Groat. Therefore
you muſt examine the Temper of your Staff, by
eafy Trials, how the Plane will work upon it,
and fet your Iron accordingly. And obferve this
as a General Rule, that the Iron of the Fore-Plane
is, for the firſt working with it, to be fet as rank
as you can make good work with; and that for
fpeed fake.
If your Iron be fet too rank, knock with an Ham-
mer upon the Britch of the Stock, and afterwards
upon the Wedge; for this knocking upon the
Britch, if you knock hard enough, 'twill raife the
Iron a little, and fet it fine; if you knock not hard
enough, you must knock again, till the fron do
rife; but if you knock too hard, it will raife the
Iron fo much, that its edge will rife above the Sole
into the Mouth of the Stock, and confequently not
touch the Stuff: Therefore you muſt knock ſoftly
at firſt, till, by trials, you find the Iron rifes to a
convenient fineness. But as this knocking on the
Britch raiſes the Iron, fo it alfo raiſes and loofens
the Wedge; therefore (as aforefaid) whenever
E 2
you
68
JOINER Y
you knock upon the Britch, you muſt alſo knock
upon the Wedge, to foften the Iron again.
If you have raifed the edge of the Iron too fine,
you muſt knock foftly upon the head of the Iron,
and then again upon the wedge, and this you may
fometimes do feveral times, till you fit your Iron
to a convenient fineness.
When you have occafion to take your Iron out.
of the Stock to rub it, that is, to whet it, you may
Knock pretty fmart Blows upon the Stock, be-
tween the Mouth and the Fore-end, to loofen the
Wedge, and confequently the Iron.
Theſe ways of ſetting, are uſed to all other
Planes, as well as Fore-planes.
In the uſing of this, and indeed, all other
Planes, you muſt begin at the hinder end of the
Stuff, the Grain of the Wood lying along the
length of the Bench, and Plane forward, till you
come to the fore-end, unless the Stuff proves
Cross-grain'd, in any part of its length; for then
you muſt turn your Stuff to Plane it the contrary
way, fo far as it runs Cross-grain'd, and in Plane-
ing, you muſt, at once, lean pretty hard upon the
Plane, and alfo thruſt it very hard forwards, not
letting the Plane totter to, or from you-wards,
till you have made a Stroak the whole length of
the Stuff. And this fometimes, if your Stuff be
long, will require your making two or three ſteps
forwards, e'er you come to the fore-end of the
Stuff: But if it do, you must come back, and be-
gin again at the farther end, by the fide of the
laft plan'd Stroak, and ſo continue your feveral
lays of Planeing, till the whole upfide of the Stuff
be planed.
And if the Stuff be broad you are to Plane up-
on, and it warp a little with the Grain, or be any
ways crooked in the breadth, you muſt then turn
the Grain athwart the Work-bench, and Plane upon
the
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B. 7
JOINERY.
69
the Cross-grain. For, if your work be hollow in
the middle, you muſt Plane both the Bearing
fides thinner, till they come to a Try with the
middle. Then turn the other fide of your work,
and working ſtill Crofs-grain'd, work away the
middle, till it come Try with the two fides.
This way of Crofs-grain'd working, is, by Work-
men, called Traverfing.
Thus have you, in general, the nfe of all the
other Planes: But the ufe of thofe Planes, that
are defigned for other particular purpoſes, I fhall
fhew, as they come in Order,
§. 4. Of the Joynter. B. 2.
The Foynter is
He Joynter is made fomewhat longer than
the Fore-plane, and hath its Sole perfectly
ftraight from end to end. Its Office is to follow
the Fore-plane, and to fhoot an edge perfectly
ſtraight, and not only an edge, but alſo a Board
of any thickness; cfpecially when a Joynt is to
be shot. Therefore the Hand must be carried
along the whole length, with an equal bearing
weight, and fo exactly even, and upright to the
edges of the Board, that neither fide of the
Plant encline either inward or outwards, but that
the whole breadth be exactly ſquare on both its
fides; fuppofing its fides ftraight: fo will two
edges of two Boards, when thus fhot, lie fo ex-
actly flat and fquare upon one another, that light
will not be diſcerned betwixt them. But yet it
is counted a piece of good Workmanſhip in a
Joyner, to have the Craft of bearing his Hand fo
curiouſly even, the whole length of a long Board ;
and yet it is but a fleight to thofe, Practice hath
inur'd the Hand to. The Foynter is alſo uſed to
Try Tables with, (large or finall) or other fuch
broad Work; and then Joyners work, as well up-
on the Traverſe with it, as with the Grain of the
E 3
Wood,
70
JOINERY.
*
Wood, and alſo Angularly, or Corner-wife, that
they may be the more affur'd of the flatnefs of
their Work..
Its Iron muſt be fet very fine, fo fine, that when
you wink with one Eye, and ſet that end the
ftraight fide of the Iron is next to the other Eye,
there appears a little above an hairs breadth of
the edge above the Superficies of the fole of the
Plane, and the length of the edge muſt lie perfect-
ly ftraight with the flat breadth of the fole of the
Plane: For the Iron being then well wedg'd up,
and you working with the Plane thus fet, have the
greater aflurance that the Iron cannot run too
deep into the Stuff, and confequently you have
the lefs danger that the Joynt is wrought out of
ftraight.
TH
§. 5. The Ufe of the Strike-block.
He Strike-block marked B 3. is a Plane fhorter
than the Foynter, having its fole made exact-
ly flat, and ftraight, and is ufed for the shooting
of a fhort Joynt becauſe it is more handy than
the long Joynter. It is alfo ufed for the framing,
and fitting the Joynts of Miters and Bevels; but
then it is uſed in a different manner from other
Planes: For if the Miter and Bevel you are to fit
be fmall, you muſt hold it very ſteddy in your
left hand, with the fole of it upwards, and its
fore-end towards your right hand: and you muſt
hold your work in your right hand very ſteddy:
Then apply the fawn Miter, or fawn Bevel at the
end of your Stuff, to the fore-end of the Strike-
block, and fo thruft it hard and upright forwards,
till it paſs over the edge of the Iron, fo fhall the
edge of the Iron, with feveral of theſe thrufts
continued, cut, or plane off your stuff the rough-
nefs that the Teeth of your Saw made: But if
your work be fo big that you cannot well weild
it
JOINERY
71
it in your right hand, you muſt fet the end of
your work in the Bench-fcrew, and Plane upon it
with a fmoothing Plane.
THe
§. 6. The Use of the Smoothing-Plane.
He Smoothing-plane marked B 4. muſt have its
Iron fet very fine, becauſe its Office is to
fmoothen the work from thofe Irregularities the
Fore-plane made.
THe
§. 7. The Ufe of the Rabbet-Plane.
He Rabbet-plane marked B 5. is to cut part of
the upper edge of a Board, or other Stuff,
ftraight, that is, fquare down into the Board,
that the edge of another Board alfo cut down in
the fame manner, may fit and join into the Square
of the firſt Board thus cut away: And when two
Boards are thus lapped on the edges over one an-
other; this lapping over is called Rabbetting.
The Rabbet-plane is alfo fometimes uſed to ſtrike
a Facia in a piece of Molding; as fhall be fhewed
in its proper place.
The fides of the Iron are not inclofed in the
Stock of this Plane, as the fore-going Planes arc,
but the Iron is full as broad as the stock is thick,
that the very Angles of the edge of the Iron may
not be born off the Stuff, to hinder the ftraight
and fquare cutting it down: Nor doth it deli-
ver its fhaving at a Mouth on the top of the
Stock as the other Planes do: But it hath its
Mouth on the fides of the Plane, and delivers its
fhavings there. Its Iron is commonly about an
Inch broad.
THe
§. 8. The Use of the Plow.
He Plow marked B 6. is a narrow Rabbet-
plane, with fome Additions to it: viz. two
fquare Staves, marked a a (yet ſome of them
E 4
have
:
72
JOINERY
have the upper edges of them rounded off for the
better compliance with the Hand) Thefe Staves
are let ſtiff through two fquare Morteflès in the
Stock, marked bb. They are about ſeven or eight
Inches long, and ſtand ſtraight and ſquare on the
farther fide of the Stock; and thefe two Staves
have fhoulders on the hither fide of the Stock,
reaching down to the wooden fole of the Plane,
(for there is alfo an Iron fole belonging to the
Plow.) To the bottom of thefe two Shoulders is,
Rivitted with Iron Rivets, a Fence (as Workmen
call it) which comes clofe under the Wooden fole,
and its depth reaches below the Iron fole about
half an Inch: Becauſe the Iron of the Plow is ve-
ry narrow, and the fides of it towards the bot-
tom are not to be inclofed in the Stock, for the
ſame reaſon that was given in the Rabbet-plane;
therefore upon the Stock is let in, and ftrongly
nailed an Iron Plate of the thickneſs of the Plow-
Iron, for Wood of that breadth will not be ſtrong
enough to endure the force the lower end of the
Plow-Iron is put to: This Iron-Plate is almoft of
the fame thickneſs that the breadth of a Plow-
Iron is. Joyners have feveral Plows, for feveral
widths of Grooves.
The Office of the Plow is, to plow a narrow
fquare Groove on the edge of a Board; which is
thus perform'd. The Board is fet an edge with
one end in the Bench-fcrew. and its other edge
upon a Pin, or Pins, put into a Hole, or Holes
in the Leg, or Legs of the Bench, fuch an Hole,
or Holes, as will, moſt conveniently for height,
fit the breadth of the Board: Then the Fence of
the Plow is fet to that Diftance off the Iron-Plate
er the Plow, that you intend the Groove fhall lie
off the edge of the Board: As if you would have
the Groove the half an Inch off the Board, then the
pro staves muit, with the Mallet, be knocked
through
JOINERY.
73
through the Morteffes in the Stock, till the Fence
ftands half an Inch off the Iron-Plate; and if the
Staves are fitted ftiff enough in the Mortefs of
the Stock, it will keep at that Diſtance whilft
you Plow the Groove: For the Fence (lying low-
er than the Iron of the Plane) when you fet the
Iron of the Plow upon the edge of the Board,
will lie flat againſt the farther edge of the Board,
and fo keep the Iron of the Plow all the length
of the Board at the fame Diſtance, from the
edge of the Poard that the Iron of the Plow
hath from the Fence. Therefore your Plow being
thus fitted, plow the Groove as you work with
other Planes, only as you laid hold on the Stock
of other Planes when you uſe them, now you muſt
lay hold of the two ftaves and their shoulders,
and fo thruſt your Plow forwards, till your Groove
be made to your depth.
If the Staves go not ſtiff enough in the Mortefs
of the Stock, you muſt ſtiffen them, by knocking
a little wooden Wedge between the Staves and
their Mortelles.
TE
§. 9. Of Molding-Planes.
Here are feveral other Planes in ufe amongſt
Joyners, called Molding-planes; as, the Round,
the Hollow, the Ogee, the Snipes-bill, the Rabbet-
plane, the Grooving-plane, &c. And of theſe they
have feveral forts, viz. from half a quarter
of an Inch, to an Inch and a half. They are
ufed as other Planes are. In the Planeing of Stuff,
you muſt uſe Planes whofe Irons have different
Mountings; and that according to the hardneſs,
or foftnefs of the Wood, you are to work upon:
For if the Wood be hard, the Iron muſt ſtand
more upright than it need do, if the Wood be
foft: For foft Wood, as Deal, Pear-tree, Maple,
&c. The Iron is fet to make an Angle of 45 De-
grees,
74
JOINERY.
grees, with the Sole of the Plane: But if it be ve-
ry hard Wood you are to Plane upon, as Box,
Ebony, Lignum Vite, &c. It is fet to 80 Degrees,
and fometimes quite upright: So that theſe hard
Woods, are, indeed, more properly faid to be
Scraped, than Planed.
But before you come to ufe your Planes, you
muſt know how to grind, and whet them, for
they are not fo fitted when they are bought, but
every Workman accomodates them to this pur-
pofe, as if it be an hard Wood he is to work on,
he grinds his Bafil to a more obtufe Angle, than
he would do for foft Wood.
The Bafil, or Angle, an Iron is ground †, to
work on foft Wood is about 12 Degrees, and for
hard Wood about 18, or 20 Degrees. V.here
note, That the more acute, or thinner the Bafil is,
the better and fmoother the Iron cuts; and the
more obtuſe and thicker, the ſtronger the Edge
is to work upon hard Work.
§. 10. Of Grinding and Whetting the Iron,
W
and other Edge-Tools.
Hen you grind your Iron, place your two
Thumbs under the Iron, and your Fingers
of both Hauds upon the Iron, and fo clap down
your Iron to the Stone, holding it to that Angle
with the Stone you intend the Bafil fhall have:
Keep the Iron in this Pofture, without either
mounting, or finking its ends all the while the
Stone is turning about; and when you lift the
Iron off the Stone, to fee if it be ground to your
Mind; if it be not, you muſt be fure you place
the Iron again in the fame Poſition on the Stone
it had before; for elfe you will make a double
Bafil on your Iron: But if it be true fet on the
Stone, and fteddily kept to that Poſition, your
Bafil will be Hollow, and the fmaller your Grind-
stone
JOINERY.
75
ftone is, the hollower it will be. You may know
when it is well Ground, by the evennefs, and en-
tireneſs of the Edge all the way.
Having ground your Iron, you muſt ſmoothen
the edge finer with a good Whet-ftone. Thus,
hold the edge of your Iron upwards in your left
Hand, and your Whet-stone in your right, and
having firſt ſpit upon your Stone to wet it, ap-
ply it to the Bafil of your Iron, in fuch a Pofition,
that it may bear upon the whole breadth of
the Bafil; and fo working the Stone over the
Bafil, you will quickly wear the courfer grating
of the Grind-stone off the edge on that fide: Then
turn the flat fide of the Iron, and apply the
Stone flat to it, till you have worn off the courſe
gratings of the Grind-ſtone, on that ſide too.
Joiners often grind their Irons upon a flat
Grind-tone alfo: And then they hold the Iron al-
fo in their Hands, in the fame Pofture as if it
were to be ground on the Round Grind-ftone :
Yet then inſtead of keeping the Iron on one
place of the Stone, they thruft it hard ftraight
forwards, almoſt the length of the Stone, and
draw it lightlier ſtraight back again, keeping it
all the while at the fame Angle with the Su-
perficies of the Stone; and then ſmoothen its edge
with the Whet-stone, as if it had been ground
upon the round Grind-ftone. And this they do fo
often, till they have rubbed the hollownefs of the
Bafil to a flat, and then they grind it again upon
the round Grind-ftone.
This Order and Manner of Setting, Grinding
and Smoothing a Bafil and Edge, is alfo uſed in all
other Edge-tools Joiners ufe.
§. 10,
76
JOINERY.
§. 10. Of Chiflels of feveral Sorts.
And firft of Formers.
Ormers marked C 1. C 3. are of ſeveral ſizes.
They are called Formers, becauſe they are
ufed before the "paring Chiffel, even as the fore
Plane is uſed before the foothing Plane. The
Stuff you are to work upon being firft fcribed,
(as I fhall fhew in its proper place) you muſt
fet the edge of the Former, a little without the
fcribed Stroak. with its Bafil outwards, that it
may break, and fhoulder off the Chips from your
Work, as the Edge cuts it. And you muſt bear
the Helve of the Former a little inwards over
the Stuff, that the Former do not at first cut
ftraight down, but a little outwards: For, fhould
you venture to cut ftraight down at the firſt,
you might with a negligent, or unluckly knock
with the Mallet, drive the edge of the Former
under the work. and fo cut, before you are a-
ware, more off the under fide than the upper
fide of your Work, and fo (perchance) ſpoil
it. Therefore you may make feveral Cuttings,
to cut it ftraight down by little and little, till
your Work is made ready for the paring Chif
fel. When it is ufed, the Helve of it is knockt
upon with a Mallet, to drive the edge into the
Stuff.
The
S. 11. Of the Paring-Chiffel.
He Paring-Chiffel marked C 2. muſt have a
very fine and fmooth edge: Its Office is
to follow the Former, and to pare off, and fmoothen,
the Irregularities the Former made.
It is not knockt upon with the Mallet, but the
Blade is clafped upon the out-fide of the hin-
dermoft Joints of the fore and little Fingers,
by the clutched infide of the middle and third
Fingers
JOINERY.
Fingers of the right Hand, and fo its edge being
fet upon the fcribed line, and the top of the
Helve placed againſt the hollow of the infide of
the right ſhoulder, with preffing the ſhoulder hard
upon the Helve, the edge cuts and pares away
the Irregularities.
This way of handling, may feem a Prepofter-
ous Poſture to manage an Iron Tool in, and yet
the reafon of the Original Contriver of this Po-
fture is to be approved; For, fhould Workmen
hold the Blade of the Paring-Chiffel in their whole
Hand, they muſt either hold their Hand pretty
near the Helve, where they cannot well manage
the Tool, or they muſt hold it pretty near the
edge, where the outſide of the Fingers will hide
the fcribed line they are to pare in. But this Po-
ſture, all Workmen are at firſt taught, and Pra-
&tice doth fo inure them to it, that if they would,
they could not well leave it.
S. 12. Of the Skew-Former.
He Skew-Former marked C 4. is feldom ufed
by Joiners, but for cleanſing acute Angles,
with its acute Angle on its edge, where the
Angles of other Chiffels will not fo well come.
THe
S. 13. Of the Mortefs-Chiflel.
He Mortefs Chiffel marked C 5. is a narrow
Chiffel, but hath its Blade much thicker, and
confequently ſtronger (that it may endure the
heavier blows with the Mallet) than other Chif
fels have, fo that in grinding it to an edge, it is
ground to a very broad Bafil as you may lee in
the Figure. Its Office is to cut deep fquare holes,
called Morteffes, in a piece of Wood. "Joiners ufe
them of feveral Breadths according as the
Breadths of their Mortelles may require.
§. 14.
78
JOINERY.
T
S.
§. 14. Of the Gouge.
He Gouge marked C6. Is a Chiffel having a
round edge, for the cutting fuch Wood as is
to be Rounded, or Hollowed.
Theſe ſeveral forts of Chiffels Joiners have of
feveral Sizes, that they may be accommodated to
do feveral Sizes of Work.
J
MECHA-
Tage 19
}
t
m
71
Plate 6.
(79)
MECHANICK EXERCISES;
O.R,
The Doctrine of Handy-Works
Continued in the Art of JOINERY.
S. 15: Of the Square, and its Ufe.
T
HE Square, marked D, is two adjunct
Sides of a Geometrical Square. a The
Handle. b The Tongue. c The Outer
Square. d The Inner Square. For Joiner's
ufe, it is made of two pieces of Wood, the one
about an Inch thick, and the other about a quar-
ter of an Inch thick: Thefe two pieces are feve-
rally shot exactly ſtraight, and have each of their
Sides parallel to each of their own Sides. The
thick Piece (called the Handle) hath a Morteſs
in it, as long within a quarter of an Inch, as the
thin piece (called the Tongue) is broad. and
ftifly fo wide, as to contain the thickneſs the
Tongue. The Tongue is faftned into the Mortefs
of the Handle with Glew and wooden Pins, fo
as the two outer fides (and then confequently
the two inner fides) may ſtand at right Angles
with one another.
The Reaſon why the Handle is fo much thicker
than the Tongue, is, becauſe the Handle ſhould
on either fide become a Fence to the Tongue.
And
80
JOINERY.
And the reaſon why the Tongue hath not its
whole breadth let into the end of the Handle is,
becauſe they may with leſs care ftrike a line by
the fide of a thin than a thick piece: For if in.
ſtead of holding the Hand upright when they
ftrike a Line, they fhould hold it never fo little
inwards, the fhank of a Pricker falling againſt
the top edge of the Handle, would throw the
Point of a Pricker farther out than a thin Piece
would: To avoid which Inconvenience, the
Tongue is left about half an Inch out of the end
of the Handle.
Another Reafon is. That if with often ſtriking
the Pricker againſt the Tongue it becomes rag-
ged, or uneven, they can with lefs trouble Plane
it again when the Stuff is all the way of an e-
qual ftrength, than they can, if Crofs grain'd
Shoulders be added to any part of it.
Its ufe is for the ftriking of Lines fquare ei-
ther to other Lines, or to ftraight fides, and to
try the fquareneſs of their Work by; As if they
would ftrike a Line fquare to a fide they have
already ſhot: They apply the infide of the Han-
dle cloſe to the fide fhot, and lay the Tongue flat
upon the Work, than by the outerfide of the
Tongue, they draw with a Pricker a ſtraight
Line: This is called Striking, or drawing of a
Square. Or, if they would Try the fquarenefs of
a Piece of Stuff ſhot on two adjoining fides, they
apply the infides of the Handle and Tongue to
the outſides of the Stuff, and if the outfides of the
Stuff do all the way agree in Line with the in-
fides of the Square, it is true Square. Or if they
would try the inward fquareneſs of Work, they
apply the two outfides of the Square to the in-
fides of the Work.
$. 16.
JOINERY
§. 16. The manner of Plaining and Trying a piece
WE
of Stuff-Square.
E will take, for Example, a Piece of Stuff
called a Quarter, which is commonly two
Inches thick, four Inches broad, and feven Foot
long. To plane this Square, lay one of its broad
Sides upon the Bench, with one of its ends fhov'd
pretty hard into the Teeth of the Bench-hook,
that it may lie the fteddier. Then with the
Fore-Plane, as you were taught, § 2. Numb. 2.
Plane off the roughnefs the Saw made at the Pit,
and work that fide of the Quarter as freight in
its length and breadth as you can with the Fore-
Plane; which you may give a pretty good guefs
at, if the edge of the Iron have born all the way
upon the Work, yet you may try by taking up
your Work, and applying one end of it to one
Eye, whilft you wink with the other, and obferve
if any Hollow, or Dawks be in the length; if
not, you may conclude it pretty true: For the
Work thus held, the Eye will difcern pretty near-
ly. Or, for more certainty, you may apply the
edge of the two-foot Rule, or rather a Rule fhot
the full length of the Quarter to your Work, and
if it agree all the way with the Rule, you may
conclude it is ſtraight in length. But if you find
it not ſtraight, you muſt ſtill with the Fore-Plane
work off thoſe Rifings that bear the edge of the
Rule off any part of the Stuff: Then try if the
Breadth be pretty ſtraight; if it be, (the Dawks
the roughneſs the Fore-plane made excepted) the
firſt office of the Fore-plane is perform'd: If it
be not, you muſt ftraighten the Breadth as you
did the Length.
But tho' this Quarter be thus plained ſtraight
in length and breadth, yet becaufe the Iron of the
Fore-plane for its firft working the Stuff is fet
Rank,
LID
82
JOINERY.
لية
:
Rank, and therefore makes great Dawks in the
Stuff, you muſt ſet the Iron of your Fore-plane
finer, as you were taught, §. 3. Numb. 2. and
with it then work down even almoſt to the bot-
tom of thoſe Dawks: then try it again, as be-
fore, and if you find it try all the way, you may,
with the Jointer, or Smoothing-plane, but rather
with the Jointer, go over it again, to work out
the irregularities of the fine Fore plane: For the
Iron of the Fore-plane being ground to a Rifing
in the middle, as has been fhew'd, §. 2. Numb. 2.
though it be very fine fet, will yet leave fome
Dawks in the Stuff for the Jointer, or Smooth-
ing-plane, to work out. Thus the firft fide of
the Quarter will be finiſhed.
Having thus tryed one fide of the Quarter
ftraight and flat, apply the infide of the Handle
to it, and if one of the adjoining fides of the
Quarter, comply alfo with the infide of the
Tongue all the way, you need only ſmooth that
adjoining fide: But if it do not fo comply, that
is, if it be not ſquare to the firſt fide, which you
will know by the riding of the infide of the
Tongue upon one of the Edges; or fome other
part between the Edges, you muſt, with the Fore-
plane Rank-fet, plain away that Stuff which bears
off the infide of the Tongue from complying all
the way with it. But if the Rifings be great,
you may, for quickneſs, hew away the Rifings
with the Hatchet: but then you muſt have a care
you let not the edge of your Hatchet cut too
deep into the Stuff, left you either ſpoil your
Stuff, by making it unfizeable, if it be already
fmall enough; or if it have fubftance enough,
make your felf more labour to get out thofe
Hatchet-ftroaks with the Plane than you need.
Then take off the roughness the Hatchet made
with the Fore-plane Rank-fet, then fine fet, and
:
laft
JOINERY.
83
laft of all with the Jointer, or Smoothing-plane :
So is the fecond fide alfo finiſhed.
To work the third fide, fet the Oval of the
Gage exactly to that width from the Gage, that
you intend the Breadth of the Quarter (when
wrought) ſhall have, which, in this our Example, is
four Inches, but will be fomewhat lefs, becauſe
working it true will diminish the Stuff: Therefore
fliding the Oval on the Staff, meaſure on your Inch-
Rule fo much leſs than four Inches, as you think
your Stuff diminiſhes in working: Mcafure, I fay,
between the Oval and the Tooth, your fize: If, at
the firſt proffer, your Oval ſtand too far from
the Tooth, hold the Oval in your Hand, and
knock the Tooth-end of your Staff upon the
Work-bench, till it ftand near enough If the
Oval ſtand too near, knock the other end of the
Staff upon the Work-bench till it be fit. Then
apply the flat of the Oval to the fecond wrought
fide of your Stuff, fo as the Tooth may reach
athwart the breadth of the Stuff upon the firſt
fide, and keeping the Oval clofe againſt the ſe-
cond fide, prefs the Tooth fo hard down, that
by drawing the Gage in this pofture all along
the length of the Quarter, the Tooth may ftrike
a Line. In like manner upon the fide oppofite to
the firſt, viz. the fourth flde, Gage another line
oppofite to the firft gaged Line, and work your
Stuff down to thofe two gaged Lines on the third
fide, either with Plaining along, or with Hewing,
and afterwards Plaining, as you were taught to
work the fecond fide.
To work the fourth fide, fet the Tooth of the
Gage to its exact diſtance from the Oval, viz. two
Inches wanting fo much as you think the Stuff di-
miniſh'd in working, and apply the fiat of the O-
val to each fide of the firſt fide, and Gage as be→
före two Lines, one on the fecond, the other on
F 2
the
Y
84
JOINERY
the third wrought fide. Work your Stuff then
down on the fourth fide to thofe two Gage-lines,
either with Plaining alone, or with Hewing, and
afterwards Plaining, as you were taught to work
the ſecond fide
§. 17. To Frame two Quarters Square into one
another.
S
Ou muſt take care in Morteffing and Ten-
You
nanting, that as near as you can equallize
the ſtrength of the fides of the Mortefs to the
ftrength of the Tenant. I do not mean that the
Stuff ſhould be of an equal Subſtance, for that is
not equalling ſtrength: But the equalling ftrength
muſt be confidered with respect to the Quality,
Poſition and Subftance of the Stuff: As if you
were to make a Tennant upon a piece of Fur,
and a Mortefs to recieve it in a piece of Oak, and
the Fur and Oak have both the fame fize: The
Tennant therefore made upon this piece of Fur,
muſt be confiderably bigger than a Tennant need
be made of Oak, becaufe Fur is much a weaker
Wood than Oak, and therefore ought to have a
greater Subſtance to equallize the ftrength of Oak.
And for Pofition, the fhorter the Stuff that the
Tennant is made on, the lefs Violence the Ten-
nant is fubject to. Befides, it is eaſier to ſplit
Wood with the Grain, than to break Wood cross
the Grain; and therefore the fame Wood when
poſited as a Tennant, is ſtronger than the fame
Wood of the fame fize when poſited as a Morteſs:
for the injury a Mortefs is fubject to, is ſpliting
with the grain of the Wood, which, without
good care, it will often do in working; but the
force that muſt injure a Tennant, muft offend it,
croſs the Grain of the Wood, in which Poſition
it will beft indure Violence.
When
JOINERY.
85
When two pieces of Wood, of the fame qua-
lity and fubftance (as in this our Example) are
elected to make on the one a Tennant, and in the
other a Mortefs. If you make the Mortefs too
wide, the fides of the Mortefs will be weaker
than the fides that contain the Mortefs: And if
one be weaker than the other, the weakeft will
give way to the ſtrongeſt when an equal Vio-
lence is offer'd to both. Therefore you may fee
a neceffity of equallizing the ftrength of one to
the other, as near as you can. But becauſe no
Rule is extant to do it by, nor can (for many
Confiderations, I think,) be made, therefore
this equallizing of ftrength muſt be referred to
the Judgment of the Operator. Now to the
Work.
The Mortcfs to be made is in a Quarter four
Inches broad. In this cafe Workmen make the
Mortefs an Inch wide, fo that an Inch and an
half Stuff remains on either fide it. Therefore
your Stuff being fquar'd, as was taught in the
laft Section, fet the Oval of the Gage an Inch
and an half off the Tooth, and gage with it, on
either fide your Stuff, a ſtraight line at that di-
itance from the end you intend the Mortefs fhall
be, then open your Compafles to two Inches,
and prick off that diſtance in one of the Lines,
for the length of the Mortefs; then lay the in-
fide of the Handle of the Square to one fide of
the Stuff, and upon both the pricks fucceffively,
and with your Pricker draw ftraight Lines through
them by the fide of the Tongue, fo fhall the
bounds of your Mortefs be ſtruck out on the Quar-
ter. If your Mortefs go through the Quarter,
draw the fame Lines on the oppoſite ſide of the
Quarter thus, Turn the Quarter, or its Edge,
and apply the infide of the Handle of the Square,
to the ends of the former drawn Lines, and by
F 3
the
86
JOINERY.
the fide of the Tongue draw two Lines on the
edge of the Quarter; then turn the Quarter a-
gain with its other broad fide upwards, and ap-
ply the infide of the Handle of the Square to the
ends of the laft Lines drawn on the edge, and by
the fide of the Tongue, draw two Lines on this
broad fide alfo. Theſe two Lines (if your Quar-
ter was truly fquar'd) fhall be exactly oppofite to
the two Lines drawn on the firft broad fide of the
Quarter for the length of the Mortefs: And for
the width of the Mortefs gage this fide alfo, as
you
did the first; then for the Tennant, gage on
that end of the Quarter you intend the Tennant
fhall be made, the fame Lines you did for the
Mortefs. And becauſe the Quarter is two In-
ches thick, prick from the end two Inches, and
applying the infide of the Handle of the Square
to the fide of the Quarter, and the Tongue to
that Prick, draw by the fide of the Tongue a
Line through that fide the Quarter; then turn the
other fides of the Quarter fucceffively, and draw
Lines athwart each fide the Quarter, as you were
taught to draw the oppofite Lines for the Mor-
trefs.
Then place the edge of the Inch-Mortefs-Chif-
fel with its Bafil from you, and the Helve bear-
ing a little towards you, within one half quarter
of an Inch of one end of the ſtruck Mortefs, and
with your Mallet knock hard upon it, till you find
the Bafil of the Chiflèl will no longer force the
Chips out of the Mortefs; then remove the Chif
fel to the other end of the Mortefs, and work, as
with the firft end, till the Chips will void no lon-
ger: Then work away the Stuff between the two
Ends, and begin again at one of the Ends, and
then at the other, and work deeper into the Mor-
tefs, then again between both; and fo work
deeper by degrees, till you have wrought the
Mor-
JOINERY
87
Mortefs through, or (if not through) to the in-
tended Depth; then with the Mortefs-chiflèl
work nearer the drawn Lines at the ends of the
Mortefs, (for before you were directed to work
but within half a quarter of an Inch of the drawn
Lines,) by laying light blows on it, till you have
made it fit to pare fmooth with a narrow Paring-
chiffel, and then pare the ends, as you were taught
to work with the Paring-chiffel: Then with the
broad Paring-chiffel, pare the fides of the Morteſs
juſt to the ſtruck Lines; fo is the Mortefs finiſhed.
To work the Tennant, lay the other Quarter
on edge upon your Work-bench, and faften it
with the Holdfaft, as you were taught Sect. I.
Then with the Tennant, faw a little without the
Struck-line towards the end: You muſt not Saw
juſt upon the Struck-line, becauſe the Saw cuts
rough: Befides, you muſt leave fome Stuff to pare
away fmooth to the Struck-line, that the Stile
(that is, the upright Quarter) may make a cloſe
Joint with the Rail (that is) the lower Quarter:
Saw therefore right down with the Tennant-Saw,
just almoſt to the gaged Lines for the thickneſs of
the Tennant, and have a care to keep the Blade
of the Saw exactly upright. Then turn the oppo-
fite Side of the Quarter upwards, and work as you
were taught to work the first Side.
Then with the Paring-chiflel, pare the Work
cloſe to the gaged Lines for the Tennant. Then
try how it fits the Mortefs: If it be not pared e-
nough away, you muſt pare it where it bears, that
is, fticks. But if you fhould chance to have made
it too little, you have ſpoiled your Work: There-
fore you may fee how neceflary it is, not to make.
the Mortefs too wide at firft, or the Tennant too
narrow.
Then with the Piercer pierce two holes through
the Sides, or Cheeks of the Mortefs, about half an
F 4
Inch
88
JOINERY.
Inch off either end one. Then knock the Tennant
ftiff into the Mortefs, and fet it upright, by ap-
plying the Angle of the outer Square, to the An-
gle the two Quarters make, and with your Prick-
er, prick round about the inſides of the Pierced
holes upon the Tennant. Then take the Tennant
out again, and Pierce two holes with the fame
Bit, about the thickneſs of a Shilling above the
Pricked holes on the Tennant, that is, nearer the
Sholder of the Tennant, that the Pins you are to
drive in, may draw the Sholder of the Tennant
the clofer to the flat fide of the Quarter the Mor-
tefs is made in. Then with the Paring-chiffel
make two Pins fomewhat Tapering, full big e-
nough, and fetting the two Quarters again fquare,
as before, drive the Pins ſtiff into the Pierced
holes.
If you make another Square, as you did this;
and make alſo a Tennant on each Un-tennanted
end of the Stiles, and another Mortefs on the
top and bottom Rails, you may put them toge-
ther, and make fquare Frames of them.
§. 18. Of the Miter Square. And its Ufe.
THE
'He Miter Square marked E, hath (as the
Square) an Handle marked a, one Inch
thick, and three Inches broad, and a Tongue
marked b, of about the fame breadth: The Han-
dle and the Tongue (as the Square) have both
their Sides parallel to their own Sides. The Han-
dle (as the Square) hath in the middle of its
narroweſt Side a Mortefs in it, of an equal depth,
the whole length of the Handle: Into this Mor-
tefs is fitted one end of the Tongue, but the end
of the Handle is firft Bereld off to make an An-
gle of 45 Degrees with its infide. This Tongue
is (as the Square) Pind and Glewed into the
Mortefe of the Handle.
It
JOINERY.
89
It is uſed for ſtriking a Miter-line, as the Square
is to ſtrike a Square-line, by applying the infide
of the Handle to the outfide of the Quarter, or
Batten, you are to work upon; and then by ſtrik-
ing a Line by the fide of the Tongue: For that
Line ſhall be a Miter-line. And if upon two Bat-
tens you ſtrike two fuch Lines, and Saw and Pare
them juſt off in the Lines, when the flats of thoſe
two fawn ends are applied to one another, the
ont and inſide of the Battens, will form them-
felves into the Figure of a Square.
Thus Picture Frames, and looking Glaſs-frames,
are commonly made, as by a more full Example
you may fee in the next Section.
A 90
S. 19. Of the Bevil.
S the Square is made to ſtrike an Angle of
90 Degrees, and the Miter an Angle of 45
Degrees, fo the Bevil (marked F) having its
Tongue movable upon a Center, may be fet to
ftrike Angles of any greater, or leſſer numbers
of Degrees, according as you open the Tongue
wider from, or fhut it clofer to the Handle. It is
ufed as the Square, and the Miter, and will per-
form the Offices of them both, though it be not
purpoſely made for either; but for the ſtriking
fuch Bevil-lines, as one part of your work muſt be
cnt away to, to make it join with another part of
your Work: For Example,
We will propoſe to make a Frame for a Picture,
Looking-glafs &c. containing eight ſtraight Sides;
You may quickly perceive that all the ends of
theſe eight Sides muſt be cut to Bevils, and what
Bevils they muſt be, you will find if you defcribe
upon a finooth flat Board, a Circle of any bignefs,
but the larger the better: Divide this Circle in-
to eight equal Parts, and from every point draw
a Line to the Center: Draw alſo ſtraight Lines
from
90
JOINERY.
from every point to its next Point: Then lay the
infide of the Handle of your Bevil exactly upon a-
ny one of theſe ftraight Lines, fo as the Angle
made by the infide of the Handle, and the infide
of the Tongue, lie exactly at the very Angle made
by this ftraight Line, and the Semi-Diametral
Line proceeding from the Center, and move the
Tongue nearer, or farther off the Handle, till the
infide of the Tongue and the infide of the Handle,
lie exactly upon thofe two Lines, fo fhall your Be-
vil be fet.
Then having fitted your Pieces to your Scant-
ling, ftick your Pricker as near the outward Cor-
ner of your Pieces as your Stuff will bear, and ap-
ply the infide of your Handle alfo to the outer
fides of your Pieces, and fo as the infide of the
Tongue may be drawn home to the Pricker. For
then Lines drawn on thoſe Pieces by the inſide of
the Tongue, fhall be the Lines the Pieces muſt be
cut in, to make theſe eight Pieces join evenly to-
gether by the fides of each others Bevil: Then
with the Strike-block fmooth the ends of the Be-
vils, as you were taught in the Section of the
Strike-block.
If you have a Board on the back-fide of this
Frame, you may Glew the back-fides of theſe
Pieces, piece by piece to the Board; but firſt you
muft fit them to an exact Compliance of every Be-
vil with its Match, and when they are fo fitted,
drive two Nails clofe to the outfide of every
piece, but drive not the Nails deep into the Board,
becauſe when the Frame is fet, and Glewed, or
otherwiſe faſtned, you muſt draw the Nails out
again: For theſe Nails are only intended to ferve
for Fences to fet, and fit each piece into its proper
Place, before the whole Frame is faftned together.
And ſhould you not thus Fence them, though by
your Eye you might judge you fitted the Bevils
exactly,
JOINERY.
91
exactly, yet one piece being never fo little out of
its due Pofition, would drive the next piece more
out, and that the next, till at the laft, the laſt
piece would not join, but either be too fhort, or
too long, or ſtand too much out, or in, or elfe
too open, or too cloſe on the out, or infide.
But if you have no Board on the backſide, you
muſt, when you Saw the Bevilling Angles upon
the fquare ends of pieces, not fawn quite through
the depth of one end of every piece, but about
half way through the depth, or thickneſs, and then
with your Chiffel either fplit, or elfe pare, the up-
per fide of the fquare end flat away to the Bevil,
and fo leave part of the fquare end of your piece,
to lap under the piece it is joined to. For Example,
C
In Fig. 3. Plate 5. a b is the fquare end of the
piece, and be is the Bevil you work the piece to.
Therefore you muſt work away ſo much of the
thickneſs of the fquare end, as is comprehended
between a and c, fo that you will fee the Triangle
abc, is to be wrought away half way down the
thickneſs of the Stuff, and fo will the Triangle ab
be left for the other half thickneſs of the Stuff.
But that end of the piece marked 1, which joins to
the piece marked 2, muft, upon its Bevil-ftroak,
be fawn quite off, and its underſide muſt have the
fame Triangle wrought into it, juſt ſo fit as to re-
ceive the Triangle in piece 2, and juſt ſo deep, as
that when the Triangle on piece 2, is fitted into
the Triangle in piece 1, the Superficies of both the
pieces may be even with one another. And thus
you may lap the ends of every piece into one an-
other.
Theſe Triangles at the ends of the pieces you
may Glew into one another, but if you think
Glewing alone not ſtrong enough, you may Pierce
an hole near the inner edge of the Frame, becauſe
the Triangle hath there moft Subftance of Stuff
and
92
JOINERY.
and afterwards Pin it, as you are taught to Pin
the Rail and Stile together in Sect. 17.
This way of Lapping over, is fometimes ufed
alfo for fquare Miters, or other Angular Frames.
S. 20. Of the Miter-Box.
THere is another way uſed by Joiners that make
many Frames, to fave themſelves the labour
of Drawing, or ſtriking out of Squares, Miters,
and feveral Bevils upon their Stuff: And this is
with a Tool called a Miter-Box, deſcribed in Plate
5. Fig. 2. It is compofed of two pieces of Wood,
of an Inch thick each, as A the upright piece, B
the bottom piece. The Upright piece is nailed
upright, faſt upon the bottom piece. And this up-
right piece hath on its upper fide the Miter Lines
ftruck with the Miter Square, as de, on the left
hand, and g b on the right hand: On theſe two
Miter Lines the edge of the Saw is fet, and a kerf
made ftraight down the upright piece, as from de
on the left hand to f, and from g b on the right
hand to i. In like manner any other Bevil is ftruck
upon the upper fide of the upright piece with the
Bevil, as kl on the left hand, and no on the right.
On theſe two Bevil Lines the edge of the Saw is
fet, and a kerf made ſtraight down the upright
piece, as from k to lm, and from gb to i. You
may make as many Bevils as you pleaſe on the up-
right piece of the Miter Box ; Bevils to join
Frames of either five, fix, feven, eight Sides, &c.
and the manner to make them to any number of
Sides, was in part taught in the laft Section. For
as there you were directed to divide the Circle in-
to eight equal Parts, becauſe eight was the num-
ber of Sides, we propofed to make that Frame con-
fift of; So, if for any number of Sides you divide
the Circle into the fame equal parts, and work as
you were there directed, you may find what Be
vil
JOINERY.
93
vil the pieces muſt have that make a Frame that
confifts of any number of Sides.
So alfo for Sawing of any Batten, or other ſmall
pieces fquare Strike at the Point a, on the upper
fide of the upright piece a line ſtraight athwart
it, to b, and Saw ftraight down the upper piece,
to c.
يص
The manner how thefe Kerfs are fawn ſtraight
down with greateſt certainty is, thus, Apply the
infide of the Handle of the fquare to the upper
fide of the upright piece, fo as the Tongue lie
clofe to that end of the Miter, Bevil, or ſquare
Line ftruck through the upper fide of the Miter
Box, and with the Pricker ftrike a Line clofe by
the fide of the Tongue, through that ſide of the
upright piece; Turn the Tongue to the other fide
of the upright piece, and apply the infide of the
Handle of the fquare to the other end of the Mi-
ter, Bevil, or Square Line, and with the Pricker
ſtrike alſo a Line cloſe by the fide of the Tongue
through that fide the upright piece. Thefe two
Lines ftruck on either fide of the upright piece,
ſhall be a Line on each fide in which the edge of
the Saw muſt run, to faw it ſtraight down.
THe
§. 21. Of the Gage:
He Gage marked G (in Plate 4) The Oval b
is fitted ſtiff upon the Staff c, that it may be
fet nearer or farther from the Tooth a. Its Office
is to Gage a Line parallel to any ſtraight fide. It
is uſed for Gaging Tennants, and for Gaging Stuff
to an equal thickneſs.
When you uſe it, you muſt ſet the Oval to the
intended Diſtance from the Tooth: If the Oval
ſtand too near the Tooth, Hold the Oval in your
right hand, and knock the hinder end of the Staff
upon the Work-bench, till it remove to its juſt
Diſtance from the Tooth: If it ſtand too far off the
Tooth,
94
70INERY.
Tooth, knock the fore end of the Staff (viz. the
Tooth end) till it remove to its juft Diſtance
from the Tooth: If the Oval flide not ſtiff enough
upon the Staff, you may ftiffen it by ſtriking a
Wooden Wedge between the Mortefs and the
Staff: So may you apply the fide of the Oval next
the Tooth, to the fide of any Table, or any o-
ther ſtraight ſide, with the Tooth Gage a Line
parallel (or of equal Diſtance) all the way from
that fide.
§. 22. Of the Piercer.
THe Piercer H, in Plate 4, hath a the Head, b
the Pad, e the Stock, d the Bitt. Its Office
is fo well known, that I need fay little to it. On-
ly, you muſt take care to keep the Bitt ſtraight to
the hole you pierce, left you deform the hole, or
break the Bitt.
You ought to be provided with Bitts of ſeveral
fizes, fitted into fo many Padds.
§. 23. Of the Gimblet.
THe Gimblet is marked I, in Plate 4. It hath a
Worm at the end of its Bitt. Its Office is to
make a round hole in thofe places of your work
where the Stock of the Piercer by reafon of its own
Sholder, or a Sholder, or Butting out upon the
work will not turn about. Its Handle is held in
a clutched hand, and its Bitt twiſted ſtiff into your
work. You muſt have them of feveral fizes.
S. 24. Of the Augre.
THe Augre marked K in Plate 4, hath a a the
Handle, b the Bitt. Its Office is to make great
round holes. When you uſe it, the Stuff you work
upon is commonly laid low under you, that you
may the eaſier uſe your ſtrength upon it: For in
twiſting the Bitt about by the force of both your
Hands
JOINERY
95
Hands, on each end of the Handle one, it cuts
great Chips out of the Stuff. You inuſt bear your
ftrength Perpendicularly ftraight to the end of
the Bitt; as with the Piercer.
S. 25. Of the Hatchet.
THe Hatchet marked L, in Plate 4. Its ufe is fo
well known (even to the moſt un-intelligent)
that I need not ufe many Words on it, yet thus
much I will fay, Its uſe is to Hew the Irregularities
off fuch pieces of Stuff which may be fooner Hewn
than Sawn.
When the Edge is downwards, and the Handle
towards you, the right fide of its Edge muſt be
Ground to a Bevil, fo as to make an Angle of a-
bout 12 Degrees with the left fide of it: And af
terwards fet with the Whetſtone, as the Irons of
Planes, &c.
I
§. 26. The Ufe of the Saw in general.
N my former Exercises, I did not teach you how
to chufe the Tools a Smith was to uſe; Be-
cauſe it is a Smith's Office to make them: And be.
cauſe in thoſe Exercises I treated of making Iron-
work, and Steel-work in general, and the making
and excellency of fome Tools in particular, which
might ſerve as a general Notion for the Know-
ledge of all Smith's Workmanſhip, eſpecially to
thoſe that ſhould concern themſelves with Smith-
ing: But to thoſe that ſhall concern themſelves
with Joinery, and not with Smithing; It will be
neceſſary that I teach them how to chufe their
Tools that are made by Smiths, that they may
uſe them with more eaſe and delight, and make
both quicker and nearer Work with them.
All forts of Saws, for Joiner's Ufe, are to be
fold in moſt Iron-monger's Shops, but eſpecially
in Fofter-lane, London: Chufe thofe that are made
of
98
JOINERY.
of Steel, (for fome are made of Iron) for Steel
of it felf is harder and ftronger than Iron: You
may know the Steel-Saws from Iron-Saws thus,
The Steel-Saws are generally ground bright and
fmooth, and are (the thickneſs of the Blade con-
fidered) ſtronger than Iron-Saws But the Iron-
Saws are only Hammer-hardned, and therefore if
they could be fo hard, yet they cannot be fo
fmooth, as if the Irregularities of the Hammer
were well taken off with the Grindstone: See it be
free from flaws, and very well Hammered, and
ſmoothly Ground, (that is, evenly Ground,) you
may know if it be well Hammered by the ftiff ben-
ding of it, and if it be well Ground, (that is, e-
venly Ground,) it will not bend in one part of it
more than in another; for if it do, it is a fign
that part were it bends moſt is, either too much
Ground away, or too thin Forged in that place :
But if it bend into a regular bow all the way, and
be ſtiff, the Blade is good: It cannot be too ſtiff,
becauſe they are but Hammer-hardned, and there-
fore often bow when they fall under unskilful
Hands, but never break, unleſs they have been of-
ten bowed in that place. The Edge whereon the
Teeth are, is always made thicker than the Back,
becauſe the Back follows the Edge, and if the
Edge ſhould not make a pretty wide Kerf, if the
Back do not ſtrike in the Kerf, yet by never fo
little irregular bearing, or twiſting of the Hand
awry, it might fo ftop, as to bow the Saw; and
(as I faid before) with often bowing it will break
at laft. When Workmen light of a good Blade
thus qualified, they matter not much whether the
Teeth be ſharp or deep, or ſet to their mind: For
to make them fo, is a Task they take to them-
felves: And thus they perform it: They wedge
the Blade of the Saw hard into the Whetting-
Block, marked P, in Plate 4. with the Handle to-
wards
JOINERY.
99
wards their left Hand, and the end of the Saw tỏ
the right, then with a three-ſquare File they be-
gin at the left hand end, leaning harder upon the
fide of the File on the right Hand, than on that
fide to the left Hand; fo that they File the upper-
fide of the Tooth of the Saw a-flope towards the
right Hand, and the underſide of the Tooth a lit-
tle a-flope towards the left, or, almoſt down.
right. Having filed one Tooth thus, all the reſt
muſt be ſo filed. Then with the Saw-wreft, mark-
ed O, in Plate 4. they fet the Teeth of the Saw:
That is, they put one of the Notches marked a a a
of the Wrest between the firſt two Teeth on the
Blade of the Saw, and then turn the Handle Ho-
rizontally a little about upon the Notch towards
the end of the Saw; and that at once turns the
firſt Tooth ſomewhat towards you, and the ſe-
cond Tooth from you: Then skipping two Teeth,
they again put one of the Notches of the Wreft be
tween the third and fourth Teeth on the Blade of
the Saw, and then (as before) turn the Handle
a little about upon the Notch towards the end of
the Saw, and that turns the third Tooth fome-
what towards you, and the fourth fomewhat from
you: Thus you must skip two Teeth at a time, and
turn the Wreft till all the Teeth of the Saw are fet.
This Setting of the Teeth of the Saw (as Work
men call it) is to make the Kerf wide enough for
the Back to follow the Edge: And is Set Ranker
for foft, courſe, cheap Stuff, than for hard, fine,
and coftly Stuff: For the Ranker the Tooth is fet,
the more Stuff is wafted in the Kerf: And befides,
if the Stuff be hard it will require greater Labour
to tear away a great deal of hard Stuff, than it
will do to tear away but a little of the fame Stuff
The Pit Saw, is Set fo Rank for courfe Stuff, as
to make a Kerf of almoſt a quarter of an Inch, bus
for fine and coftly Stuff they fet it finer to fave
G
Stuff,
98
JOINERY.
Stuff. The Whip-Saw is fet fomewhat finer tha
the Pit-Saw; the Hand-Saw, and the Compass-
Saw, finer than the Whip-Saw; but the Tennant-
Saw, Frame-Saw, and the Bow-Saw, &c. are ſet
fine, and have their Teeth but very little turned
over the Sides of their Blades: So that a Kerf
made by them, is feldom above halfa halfquarter
of an Inch.
The reaſon why the Teeth are filed to an An-
gle, pointing towards the end of the Saw, and not
towards the Handle of the Saw, or directly ſtraight
between the Handle and end of the Saw, is, Be-
caufe the Saw is defigned to cut only in its Progrefs
forwards; Man having in that Activity more
ftrength to rid, and Command of his Hands to
guide his Work, than he can have in drawing back
his Saw, and therefore when he draws back his
Saw, the Work-man bears it lightly off the un-
fawn Stuff, which is an eaſe to his Labour, and
enables him the longer to continue his ſeveral Pro-
greffions of the Saw.
Maſter-Workmen, when they direct any of their
Underlins to faw fuch a piece of Stuff, have feve-
ral Phraſes for the fawing of it: They feldom fay
Saw that piece of Stuff; But Draw the Saw through
it; Give that piece of Stuff a Kerf; Lay a Kerf in
that piece of Stuff; and fometimes, (but moſt un-
properly,) Cut, or Slit that piece of Stuff: For the
Saw cannot properly be faid to cut, or flit the
Stuff; but it rather breaks, or tears away fuch
parts of the Stuff from the whole, as the points
of the Teeth prick into, and theſe parts it ſo tears
away are proportionable to the finenefs, or rank-
nefs of the fetting of the Teeth.
The Excellency of Sawing is, to keep the Kerf
exactly in the Line marked out to be fawn, with-
out wriggling on either, or both fides; And
raight through the Stuff, as Work-men call it;
that
JOINERY.
99
that is, in a Geometrical Term, perpendicular
through the upper and under fide, if your Work
require it, as moft Work does: But if your Work
be to be Sawn upon a Bevil, as fome Work fome-
times is, then you are to obſerve that Bevil all the
length of the Stuff, &c.
§. 27. The Use of the Pit-Saw, marked M, in Platë 4.
He Pit-Saw is not only uſed by thoſe Work-
T
men that make fawing Timber and Boards
their whole Bufinefs, but is alfo for fmall matters
uſed by Joiners, when what they have to do, may
perhaps be as foon done at home, as they can car-
ry or ſend it to the Sawyers. The manner of their
working is both alike, for if it be a Board they
would flit off a piece of Timber, or if they would
take any Square, Quarter, or Batten, &c. off, they
firſt ſet off their Scantlin: For Example, If it be
an Inch (or more, or lefs) they would take off'
a piece of Stuff, they open the Points of their
Compaflès to an Inch Meaſure on their Rule, and
fo much more as they reckon the Kerf of the Saw
will make, and from on fide of their Stuff they fet
off at either end of the Stuff, the Diſtance of the
points of their Compaflès; at this Diſtance there-
fore they make with the points of their Compafles
a prick at either end of the Stuff; Then with
Chalk they whiten a Line, by rubbing the Chalk
pretty hard upon it; Then one holds the Line at
one end upon the prick made there, and the other
ftrains the Line pretty ftiff upon the prick at the
other end; then whilft the Line is thus ftrain'd,
one of them between his Finger and Thumb draws
the middle of the Line directly upright, to a con-
venient height (that it may fpring hard enough
down) and then lets it go again, fo that it fwift-
ly applies to its firft Pofition, and ftrikes fo
ftrongly against the Stuff, that the Duft, or At-
G
TOIS
100
JOINERY
toms of the Chalk that were rubbed into the
Line, ſhake out of it, and remain upon the Stuff
And thus alfo they mark the under fide of their
Stuff: This is called Lining of the Stuff: And the
Stuff cut into thofe Lines fhall be called Inch-
Stuff, becauſe the Compaſſes that prickt the Stuff,
were opened wider by the width of the Kerf than
an Inch Meaſure upon the Rule: But had the
Compaffes been opened but an Inch exactly, that
piece Sawn off fhould, in Workmen's Language,
have been called Inch-prickt, thereby giving to un-
derſtand that it is half the breadth of the Kerf
thinner than an Inch: And thus they call all o-
ther Scantlins 2 Inches, 2 Inches, 3 Inches, &c.
Sawn, or Pricked.
When two Work-men are not at hand to hold
the Line at both ends, he that Lines it, ftrikes one
point of his Compafs, or fometimes a Pricker, or
a Nail aflope towards that end into the prick fet
off, and putting the Noofe at the end of his Line
over his Compaffes, &c. goes to the other end,
and ftrains his Line on that prick, and ftrikes it
as before.
The Stuff being thus lined is faſtned with
wedges over the Pit, (if the Joiner be accommo-
dated with a Pit) if he have none, he makes fhift
with two high Frames a little more than Man
high in its ftead, (called great Truffels) with four
Legs, thefe Legs ftand fpreading outwards, that
they may ftand the firmer: Over theſe two Traf
fels the Stuff is laid, and firmly faftned that it
hake not.
Its outer fide from whence the Pricks
were ſet off muft be Perpendiculer. which you
muſt try by a Plumb-line, for fhould the top edge
of that ide, hang never fo little over the bottom
edge, or the bottom edge not lie fo far out as the
top edge, the Scantlin you faw off would not be
of an equal thicknefs on the Top or Bottom: Be-
caufe
JOINERY.
IOI
cauſe the Saw is to work exactly Perpendicular.
Then with the Pit-Saw they enter the one end of
the Stuff, the Top-man at the Top, and the Pit-
man under him: The Top-man obferving to guide
the Saw exactly in the Line: And withal draw-
ing the Saw fomewhat towards him when the
Saw goes down; and the Pit-man drawing it
with all his ftrength Perpendicularly down; but
not ſo low that the npper and lower Handles of
the Saw fink below both their Managements :
Then bearing the Teeth of the Saw a little off
the Stuff, the Top-man draws the Saw up again,
and the Pit-man aflifts, or eaſes him in it, and
thus they continue fawing on till the Saw has
run through the whole length upon the Stuff. But
when the Kerf is made fo long, that by the
working of the Saw the pieces of Stuff on either
fide will ſhake againſt one another, and fo more,
or lefs, hinder the eafie Progrefs of the Saw, they
drive a Wedge fo far in the Kerf as they dare do
for fear of ſplitting the Stuff, and fo provide the
Saw freer and eaſier Paflage through the Stuff:
This Wedging they continue fo oft as they find
occafion.
МЕСНА-
( 102 )
MECHANICK EXERCISES;
OR,
The Doctrine of Handy-Works
Continued in the Art of JOINERY.
§. 28. The Ufe of the Whip-Saw, marked N in
Plate 4•
T
HE Whip-Saw is ufed by Joiners, to
faw fuch greater pieces of Stuff that
the Hand-Saw will not easily reach
through; when they ufe it, the Stuff is
laid upon the Truffel, marked O in Plate 5. in the
Angles of it. Then two Men takes each an Han-
dle of the Saw; He to whom the Teeth of the
Saw points, drawing to him, and the other thruft-
ing from him: And (as before) the Saw having
run its length, is lifted gently over the Stuff to
recover another ftroak of the Saw.
§. 29. The Ufe of the Hand-Saw marked D, the
Frame or Bow-Saw, the Tennant-Saw,
marked O in Plate 4.
TH
Hefe Saws are accommodated for a fingle
Man's Ufe, and cut forward as the other
Saws do. The Office of the Cheeks made to the
Frame-Saw is, by the twifted Cord and Tongue in
the middle, to draw the upper ends of the Cheeks
clofer together, that the lower end of the Cheeks
may
Page 102
H
G
Plate 7.
I
F
A
K
A
A
E
D
I
I
C
B
:
:
JOINERY.
103
may be drawn the wider afunder, and ſtrain the
Blade of the Saw the ftraighter. The Tennant-
Saw, being thin, hath a Back to keep it from
bending.
S. 30. The Use of the Compafs-Saw, marked
Q in Plate 4.
T
He Compass-Saw fhould not have its Teeth Set,
as other. Saws have; but the edge of it
fhould be made fo broad, and the back fo thin,
that it may eaſily follow the broad edge, without
having its Teeth Set; for if the Teeth be Set, the
Blade muſt be thin, or elſe the Teeth will not
bow over the Blade, and if it be thin, (confider-
ing the Blade is ſo narrow) it will not be ſtrong
enough to abide tough Work, but at never fo lit-
tle an irregular thruft, will bow, and at laſt
break; yet for cheapnefs, they are many times
made fo thin that the Teeth require a fetting. Its
Office is to cut a round, or any other Compafs
kerf; and therefore the edge muſt be made
broad, and the back thin, that the Back may have
a wide kerf to turn in.
S. 31. Of the Rule marked D in Plate 5.
THe uſe of the Rule is to meafure Feet, Inches,
and parts of Inches, which for that Purpoſe,
are marked upon the flat and fmooth fides of the
Rule, and numbred with Inches, and hath every
Inch divided into two halfs, and every half into
two quarters, and every quarter into two half-
quarters; fo that every Inch is divided into eight
equal parts; And theſe Inches are numbred from
one end of the Rule to the other; which common-
ly is in all 24 Inches: Which is a Two-Foot Rule.
They have commonly both Board and Timber-
meaſure, &c. marked upon them, for the finding
both the fuperficial and folid Content of Board or
G A
Tims
104
701NERY
Timber The ufe of which Lines and Tables ha-
vin been often taught by others, and being more
Mathematical than Mechanical, is unproper for
me to meddle with in this Place: But rather to
refer to thofe Books.
But the manual Ufe of it is, either to meaſure
length with it, or to draw a ſtraight Line by the
fide of it, or to Try the ftraightneſs or flatnefs
of their Work with. They Try their Work by
applying one of its Edges to the flat of the
wrought fide of their Work, and bring their Eye
as cloſe as they can, to fee if they can fee light
between the edge of the Rule and their Work :
If they cannot, they conclude their Work is Try,
and well wrought.
a a
§. 32. Of the Compaſſes marked E in Plate 5.
TE
He Joint, bb the Cheeks of the Joint, ce the
Shanks, dd the Points. Their Office is to
defcribe Circles, and ſet off Diſtances from their
Rule, or any other Meaſure, to their Work.
He
§. 33. Of the Glew-pot marked F in Plate 5
"The Glew-pot is commonly made of good thick
Lead, that by its Subſtance it may retain a
heat the longer, that the Glew Chill not (as
Work-men fay when it cools) when it is to be
uſed.
§. 34. Of Chufing and Boiling Glew.
The
He cleareft, drieft, and moft tranfparent
Glew is the beſt: When you boil it, break
it with your Hammer in to fmall pieces, and put
it into a clean Skillet, or Pipkin, by no means
greafie, for that will fpoil the Clamminefs of the
Glew, put to it fo much Water as is convenient
to diffolve the Glew, and to make it, when it is
hot, about the thickness of the White of an Egg:
The
JOINERY.
105
The quantity of Water cannot be affigned, becauſe
of the different Quality there is in Glew: Keep it
ftirring whilſt it is melting, and let it not ſtick to
the fides or bottom of the Veffel: When it is well
boiled, pour it into your Glew-pot to uſe, but
let your Glew-pot be very clean. When it is cold,
and you would heat it again in your Glew-pot,
you muſt take great care that it burn not to the
fides or bottom of the Glew-pot, for that burning
either turns to a thick hard skin, or elſe to a
burnt Cinder-like Subſtance, which if it mingle
with the Glew, will ſpoil it all; becauſe by its
Subſtance it will bear the two Joints you are to
Glew together, off each other.
When (with often heating) the Glew grows
too thick, you may put more Water to it; but
then you muſt make it very hot, left the Glew and
Water do not wholly incorporate.
Some Joiners will (when their Glew is too
thick, put Small-Beer into it, thinking it ſtreng-
thens it: I have tried it, and could never find it
fo, but think it makes the Glew weaker, eſpecial-
ly if the Small-Bear chance to be new, and its
Yeft not well fettled from it, or fo ftale, that it
be either Draggy, or any whit mingled with the
Settlings of the Cask.
Your
S. 35. Of using the Glew.
Our Glew muſt be very warm, for then it is
thinneſt, and as it chills, it thickens: With
a ſmall Bruſh you muſt ſmear the Glew well upon
the Joint of each piece you are to Glew together;
And before you ſet them as they are to ſtand, you
muſt joſtle them one upon the other, that the
Glew may very well touch and take hold of the
Wood; and that the Glew on each Joints may
well incorporate. Then fit the two Joints as they
muſt ſtand; And when you fet them by to dry,
let
806
JOINERY.
let the one ſtand upright upon the other; For if
they ſtand a-flope, the weight of the Stuff when it
leans upon two extream Edges, may make one end
of the Joint Open.
THE
§. 36. Of the Waving Engine.
He Waving Engine difcribed in Plate 5. Fig. 7.
Hath A B a long fquare Plank, of about fe-
ven Inches broad, five Foot long, and an Inch and
half thick: All along the length of this Plank, on
the middle between the two fides, runs a Rabbet,
as part of it is feen at C: Upon this Rabbet rides
a Block with a Groove in its under fide: This Block
is about three Inches fquare, and ten Inches long,
having near the hinder end of it a wooden Handle
going through it, of about one Inch Diameter, as
DE: At the Fore-end of this Block is faftned a
Vice, fomewhat larger than a great Hand-Vice,
as at F: The Groove in the Block is made fit to re-
çeive the Rabbet on the Plank.
At the farther end of the Plank is erected a
fpuare ftrong piece of Wood, about fix Inches
high, and five Inches fquare, as G. This fquare
piece hath a fquare wide Mortefs in it on the
Top, as at H. Upon the top of this fquare piece
is a ſtrong ſquare flat Iron Coller, fomewhat loof
ly fitted on, having two Male Screws fitted into
two Female Screws, to fcrew againſt that part of
the wooden Piece un-morteffed at the Top, marke
ed L, that it may draw the Iron Coller hard a-
gainſt the Iron marked Q, and keep it ſtiff againſt
the fore-fide of the un-morteſſed Piece, marked
L, when the piece Q, is fet to its convenient
heighth; and on the other fide the fquare wooden
Piece is fitted another Iron fcrew, having to the
end of its thank faftned a round Iron Plate which
lies within the hollow of this wooden piece, and
therefore cannot in Draft be feen in its proper
place;
JOINERY.
107
place; But I have deſcribed it a part, as at M.
(Fig. 9.) Its Nut is placed at M, on the wooden
Piece. On the farther fide of the wooden Piece is
fitted a wooden Screw called a Knob, as at N.
Through the farther and hither fide of the fquare
wooden Piece is fitted a flat Piece of Iron, about
three quarters of an Inch broad, and one quarter
of an Inch thick, ſtanding on edge upon the Plank;
but its upper edge is filed round: (the reafon you
will find by and by:) Its hither end comes through
the wooden Piece, as at O, and its farther end on
the oppoſite fide of the wooden Piece.
Upright in the hollow fquare of the wooden
Pięce ftands an Iron, as at Q, whofe lower end is
cut into the form of the Molding you intend your
work ſhall have.
In the fore fide of this wooden Piece is a ſquare
hole, as at R, called the Mouth.
To this Engine belongs a thin flat piece of hard
Wood, about an Inch and a quarter broad, and
as long as the Rabbet: It is disjunct from the En-
gine, and in Fig. 8. is marked S S, called the Rack:
It hath its under flat cut into thofe faſhioned
Waves you intend your Work fhall have: The
hollow of theſe Waves are made to comply with
the round edge of flat Plate of Iron marked Ŏ (de-
fcribed before) for when one end of the Riglet
you wave, is, with the Vice, fcrewed to the plain
fide of the Rack, and the other end put through
the Mouth of the wooden Piece, as at TT, fo as
the hollow of the Wave on the under fide of the
Rack may lie upon the round edge of the flat Iron
Plate fet on edge, as at O, and the Iron Q, is
ftrong fitted down upon the Reglet: Then if you
lay hold of the Handles of the Block DE, and
ſtrongly draw by them, the Rack and the Riglet
will both together flide through the Mouth of the
wooden Piece: And as the Rounds of the Rack
rid
1
108
JOINERT.
rid over the round edge of the flat Iron, the Rack
and Reglet will mount up to the Iron Q, and as
the Rounds of the Waves on the under fide of the
Rack flides off the Iron on edge, the Rack and
Reglet will fink, and fo in a Progreſſion (or
more) the Riglet will on its upper fide receive
the Form of the feveral Waves on the under fide
of the Rack, and alſo the Form, or Molding, that
is on the edge of the bottom of the Iron, and fo
at once the Riglet will be both molded and waved.
But before you draw the Rack through the En-
gine, you muſt conſider the Office of the Knob
Ñ, and the Office of the Iron Screw M; For by
them the Rack is fcrewed evenly under the Iron
Q. And you muſt be careful that the Groove of
the Block flip not off the Rabbet on the Plank :
For by theſe Screws, and the Rabbet and Groove,
your work will be evenly gaged all the way (as
I faid before) under the edge of the Iron Q, and
keep it from fliding either to the right, or left
Hand, as you draw it through the Engine.
A
§. 37. Of Wainscoting Rooms,
AA (in Plate 7.) The Stiles. B The Bafe.
C The Lower Rail. D The Sur-Baſe. EE
The Middle Rail, or Rails. F The Friefe Rail. G
The Upper Rail. H The Cornice, I The Lying Pan-
nel. K The Large Pannel. L The Friefe Pannel.
In Wainscoting of Rooms there is, for the moſt
part, but two heights of Pannels ufed; unleſs the
Room to be Wainscoting be above ten foot high,
as fome are eleven or twelve Foot high, and then
three Heighths of Pannels are uſed: As I The Ly
ing Pannel, above the Bafe. K The Large Pannel
above the Middle Rail: And L The Friefe Pannel
above the Friefe Rail.
The Friefe Rail is to have the fame breadth the
Margent of the Stile hath; The Middle Rail hath
com-
JOINERY.
100
commonly two breadths of the Margent of the Stile,
viz. one breadth above the Sur-bafe, and the o-
ther below the Sur-bafe. And the Upper and Low-
er Rails have alfo each the fame breadth with the
Margent of the Stile.
Thofe Moldings above the Prickt Line on the
Top, as H, are called the Cornice.
Sometimes (and especially in low Rooms)
there is no Bafe or Sur-bafe uſed, and then the Mid-
dle and Lower Rail need not be fo broad: For the
Middle Rail need not be above a third part more
than the Margent of the Rail: and the Lower Rail
you may make of what breadth you fee conveni-
ent: They are commonly about three Inches and
an half, or four Inches broad, yet this is no Rule:
For fometimes Workmen make only a flat Plinth
ferve.
You may (if you will) adorn the outer edges
of the Stiles and Rails with a fmall Molding: And
you may (if you will) Bevil away the outer edges
of the Pannels, and leave a Table in the middle of
the Pannel.
An Explanation of Terms used among Joiners
WH
Hen I first began to Print theſe Exerciſes,
I marked fome Terms in Joinery with fupe-
viour Letters (as Printers call them) thus abc &c.
intending, at the latter end of thefe Exercifes, to
have explained the Terms thofe Letters referr'd
to: But upon confideration that thofe Terms
might often be uſed in this Difcourfe, when the
Superiour Letter was out of fight, and perhaps its
Pofition (where) forgotten; I have changed my
Mind, and left out the Superiour Letters beyond
fol. 66, and inſtead of thofe References give you
this Alphabetical Table of Terms, by which you
may always more readily find the Explanation,
though you often meet with the Term,
A
110
JOINERY
A.
Architrave. See Plate 6. 1. is the Architrave Mol
ding.
Augre § 24. Plate 4. fig. K.
B.
Bafe. See Plate 6. b. And Plate 7. B.
Bead. See Plate 6. a.
Bed-molding. See Plate 6. d.
Bafil. The Bafil is an Angle the edge of a Tool
is ground away to. See fol.
71.
Batten. Is a Scantling of Stuff either two, three
or four Inches broad; and is feldom above an
Inch thick and the length unlimmitted.
Beak. The end of the Hold-faft. See fol. 60, 61.
Bench-fcrew. See Plate 4. A g. and fol. 60.
Bevil. Any floping Angle that is not a fquare,
is called a Bevil. See fol. 60.85. §19. and Plate
4. F.
Bitt. See S 22.
Bow Saw. Plate 4. O.
Co
Capital. See Plate 6. g.
Caft. Stuff is faid to Caſt, or Warp, when by
its own Droughth or Moiſture, or the Droughth
or Moiſture of the Air, or other Accident, it al-
ters its flatneſs and ſtraightneſs
Clamp. When a piece of Board is fitted with the
Grain to the end of another piece of Board crofs
the Grain the firſt Board is Clampt. Thus the ends
of Tables are commonly Clampt to preferve them
from warping.
Compass-faw. See fol. 9. and Plate 4. fig. R.
Cornice. See Plate 6. q. and Plate 7. H.
Cross-grain'd-ftuff. Stuff is Crofs-grain'd when a
Bough or fome Branch fhoots out on that part of
the
JOINERY
III
the Trunk of the Tree; For the Bough or Branch
fhooting forwards, the Grain of that branch
fhoots forwards alfo, and fo runs a-croſs the Grain
of the Trunk; and if they be well grown toge-
ther, it will ſcarce be perceived in ſome ſtuff, but
in working; yet in Deal-boards, thoſe Boughs or
Branches are Knots, and eafily perceiv'd, and if
it grew up young with the Trunk, then inftead of
a Knot you will find a Curling in the Stuff when it
is wrought.
Curling-stuff. If the Bough or Branch that fhoots
out of the Trunk of a Tree be large, and the ſtuff
in that place fawn fomewhat a-flope, when that
fttuff comes under the Plane you will find a Turn-
ing about or Curling on that place upon the ftuff;
and in a ſtraight progrefs of the Plane the Iron
will cut with, and fuddenly a-croſs the Grain, and
that more or lefs as the Bough grew in the Youth
of the Tree, or grew more or lefs upright, or
elfe floping to the Trunk, or was fawn fo. Such
ftuff therefore is called Curling-stuff.
D.
Door-cafe. Is the Fram'd work about the Door.
Double-Screw. See fol. 60. Plate 4. fig.g. on the
Work-bench A.
Facia. See Plate 6. b.
F.
Fence. See § 8. Ufe of the Plow, and Plate 4.
fig. B 6.
Fine-fet. The Irons of Planes are fet Fine, or
Rank. They are fet Fine, when they ſtand fo
fhallow below the fole of the Plane, that in work-
ing they take off a thin fhaving. See § 3.
Flat Friefe. See Plate 6. p.
Fore-Plane. See § 2. and Plate 4. B 1.
Former. See § 1o, and Plate 4. Cr. C3.
Frame,
112
JOINERT.
Frame. See fol. 59, 60. ·
Frame Saw. See § 28. and Plate 4. Oi
Free-ftuff. See §. 3.
Friefe. See Plate 6. p.
Friefe Pannel. See Plate 7. Li
Friefe Rail. See Plate 7. F.
Frowy stuff. See $ 3.
G.
Gage. See $21. and Plate 4. G.
Gimblet. See § 23. and Plate 4. I.
Gouge. See § 14. C 6.
Groove. See fol. 69.
H..
Hammer-hard. See Numb. I. fol. 58.
Handle. See § 15. and Plate 4. D ai
Hard Stuff. See § 3.
Hatchet. See § 25. Plate 4. L.
Head. See $22. Plate 4. Ha:
Hold-faft. See S1. Plate 4. Hd.
Hook. See S1. Plate 4. A b.
Husk. See Plate 6. n.
I.
"ཀ་་
Inner-fquare. See § 15. and Plate 4. D d
Foint. See fol. 59.
Jointer. See § 4. and Plate 4. B 2.
Iron. See § 2. and Plate 4. B 1 d.
K.
:
}
Kerf. The Sawn-away flit between two pieces of
ſtuff is called a Kerf. See fol. 95.
Knob. See § 36. fol. 104. and Plate 5. fig. 7. N.
Knot. See Plate 6. o.
1
L:
Large Pannel. See Plate 7. K.
Lying
JOINERY.
113
Lying Pannel. See Plate 7. I.
Lower Rail. See Plate 7. H.
M.
Margent. See Plate 7. at A A A the flat breadth
of the Stiles befides the Moldings, is called the
Margent of the Stiles.
Middle Rail. See Plate 7. EE.
Miter. See fol. 64.
Miter Box. See $ 20. and Plate 5. fig. 1.
Miter Square. See § 18. and Plate 4. E.
Moldings. The feveral wrought-work made
with Planes on Wood, is called Moldings. See
Plate 6.
Molding Planes. See $9.
Mortefs. Is a fquare hole cut in a piece of ſtuff,
to entertain a Tennant fit to it. See § 17.
Mortefs Chiffel. See § 13. and Plate 4. C 5.
Mouth. See $ 2. B 7. a The Mouth.
Ogee. See Plate 6. c.
O.
Oval. See § 21. and Plate 4. G. b.
Outer Square. See § 15. and Plate 4. Dc:
P.
Pad. See $ 22. and Plate 4. H b.
Pannel. In Plate 7. I KL are Pannels, but diftin-
guiſhed by their Poſitions.
Pare. The ſmooth cutting with the Paring-Chif
fel is called Paring.
Paring-Chiffel. See § 11. and Plate 4. C2.
Plaifter. See Plate 6. f.
Peircer. See $ 22. and Plate 4. H.
Pit-man The Saywer that works in the Pit, is
called the Pit-man.
Pit-Saw. The Pit-faw is a great Saw fitted into
a fquare Frame; as in Plate 4. M is a Pit-faw.
H
Planchier,
114
JOINERY.
Planchier. In Plate 6. between and e is the
Planchier.
Plinth. See Plate 6.
Plow. See $ 8. and Plate 4. B 6.
Pricker. Is vulgarly called an Awl: Yet for Join-
ers Uſe it hath moſt commonly a fquare blade,
which enters the Wood better than a round blade
will; becauſe the fquare Angle in turning it a-
bout breaks the Grain, and fo the Wood is in leſs
danger of ſplitting.
Rabbet. See $7.
R.
Rabbet Plane. See $7. and Plate 4. B5.
Rack. See Plate 5. fig. 8. Read $ 36.
Rail. See Plate 7. AA A.
Rank. The Iron of a Plane is faid to be fet Rank,
when its edge ftands fo flat below the Sole of the
Plane, that in working it will take off a thick
fhaving. See $ 3.
Rank-fet. See Rank.
Range. The fide of any Work that runs ftraight,
without breaking into Angles, is faid to run
Range: Thus the Rails and Pannels of one ſtraight
fide of Wainscoting is faid to run Range.
Return. The fide that falls away from the fore-
fide of any Straight or Rank-work, is called the
Return.
Riglet. Is a flat thin fquare piece of Wood:
Thus the pieces that are intended to make the
Frames for fmall Pictures, &c. before they are
Molded are called Riglets.
S.
Saw-wreft. See § 26. fol. 97, and Plate 4. O.
Scantlin. The fize that your ſtuff is intended to
be cut to.
Scribe.
JOINERY.
115
1
Scribe. When Joiners are to fit a fide of a piece
of Stuff againſt the ſide of fome other piece of
Stuff, and the fide of the piece of Stuff they are to
fit to is not regular; To make theſe two pieces
of Stuff join clofe together all the way, they
Scribe it, (as they phrafe it,) thus; They lay
the piece of Stuff they intend to Scribe cloſe a-
gainſt the other piece of Stuff they intend to
Scribe to, and open their Compaſſes to the wideſt
Diſtance, theſe two pieces of Stuff bear off each
other: Then (the Compaffes moving itiff in their
Joint) they bear the point of one of the fhanks a-
gainſt the fide they intend to Scribe to, and with
the point of the other ſhank they draw a Line up-
on the Stuff to be Scribed; and then the points of
the Compaflès remaining unremov'd, and your
Hand carried even along by the fide of the piece
to be Scribed to, that Line Scribed upon the
piece intended to be Scribed, fhall be parallel to
the irregular fide intended to be Scribed to: And
if you work away your Stuff exactly to that Line,
when theſe two pieces are put together, they fhall
feem a Joint.
Shoot a Joint. See fol. 63.
Skew-former. See $12. and Plate 4. C 4.
Smoothing Plane, See § 6. and Plate 4. B 4.
Sole. See Plate 4. B7. kab. The under fide of
à Plane is called the sole.
Square. See § 15. and Plate 4. D.
Staff. See § 21. and Plate 4. G c.
Staves. See § 8. and Plate 4. B. 6. aa.
Stile. The upright Pieces AA in Pl. 7. are Stiles.
Stock. See § 22. and Plate 4. H c.
Stops. In Plate 6. k k are Stops.
Stuff. The Wood that Joiners work upon they
call in general Stuff.
Sur-bafe. In Plate 7.
Swelling-Friefe. In Plate
Dis the Sur-bafe.
6.
r is the Swelling-frieſe.
H 2
T.
116
JOINERY
T.
Table. In Plate 6. f is the Table.
Taper. All forts of Stuff or Work that is fmal-
ler at one end than at the other, and diminiſhes
gradually from the biggeſt end, is faid to be Taper.
Tennant. Is a fquare end fitted into a Morteſs.
See § 17.
Tennant-Saw. In Plate 4. O. would be a Ten-
nant-faw, were the flat of the Blade turned
where the edge there ftands.
Tongue. See § 16. and Plate 4. D be
Tooth. See § 21. and Plate 4. Ga.
Top-man. Of the two Sawyers, the uppermoft
is called the Top-man.
Tote. See § 2. and Plate 4: BI a.
Traverſe. See fol. 69.
Truſſel. See fol. 100, and Plate 5. Fig. 3.
Try. See § 13.
V.
Vaws-Cornice. See Plate 6. e.
Upper Cornice. See Plate 6. t.
W.
Warp. The fame that Caft is.
Waving Engine. See § 46. and Plate 5.
Wedge. See § 2. and Plate 4. B 1.c.
Whetting-Block. See Plate 4. P.
Whip-Saw: See Plate 4. N.
Wreft: See § 26. and Plate
4. Q.
Thus much of Joinery. The next Exercifes
will be of Carpentry.
MECHA•
( 117 )
MECHANICK EXERCISES;
OR,
The Doctrine of Handy-Works
Applied to the ART of Houſe-Carpentry.
EING now come to exercife upon the
Carpenters Trade, it may be expected, by
fome, that I fhould infift upon Archi-
tecture, it being fo abfolutely neceflary
for Builders to be acquainted with: But my An-
fwer to them is, that there are fo many Books of
Architecture extant, and in them the Rules fo well,
fo copioully, and fo compleatly handled, that it is
needlefs for me to fay any thing of that Science
Nor do I think any Man that fhould, can do more
than Collect out of their Books, and perhaps de-
liver their Meanings in his own Words. Befides,
Architecture is a Mathematical Science, and there-
fore different from my prefent Undertakings,
which are (as by my Title) Mechanick Exer-
cifes yet becauſe Books of Architecture are as
neceſſary for a Builder to underſtand, as the uſe
of Tools; and left fome Builders fhould not
know how to enquire for them, I ſhall at the
latter end of Carpentry give you the Names of
fome Authors, efpecially fuch as are Printed in
the English Tongue.
Some may perhaps alfo think it had been more
proper for me in thefe Exerciſes to have introdu-
ced Carpentry before Joinery, becauſe Neceffity,
(the Mother of Invention ) did doubtlefs compel
H 3
our
118
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
our Fore-fathers in the beginning to uſe the con-
veniency of the firft, rather than the extrava-
gancy of the laſt. I confefs, I confidered it my ſelf,
and had in my own Reafon been perfuaded to it.
but that I alſo conſidered that the Rules they both
work by are upon the matter in the fame, in Saw-
ing, Morteffing, Tenanting, Scribing, Paring, Plain-
ing, Moulding, &c. and likewife the Tools they
work with the fame, though fome of them fome-
what ſtronger for Carpenter's Ufe than they need
be for Joiner's; becauſe Joiners work more curi-
ouſly, and obferve the Rules more exactly than
Carpenters need do. And therefore I fay it was,
that I began with Joinery before Carpentry; for
he that knows how to work curiouſly, may, when
he lifts, work flightly; when as they that are
taught to work more roughly, do with greater
difficulty perform the curious and nice work.
Thus we fee Joiners Work their Tables exactly
flat and ſmooth, and fhoot their Joint fo true,
that the whole Table fhews all one piece: But
the Floors Carpenters lay are alfo by Rule of Car-
pentry to be laid flat and true, and fhall yet be
well enough laid, though not fo exactly flat and
fmooth as a Table.
Yet though the Rules Joiners and Carpenters.
work by are ſo near the fame, and the Tools they
work with, and Stuff they work upon, the fame;
yet there are many Requifites proper to a Car-
penter, (eſpecially a Mafter Carpenter) that a
Joiner need take little notice of, which, after I
have deſcribed the Carpenters Tools that are not
expreſt among the Joiners, I fhall fpeak to.
§ 1. Of feveral Tools used in Carpentry, that are
not used in Joinery. And first of the Ax.
'He Ax marked A in Plate 8. is (as you fee)
different from what the Joiners Hatchet is,
THE
both
$
Plate 8.
G
'
Head of
the Socket Chiffel
Pa. 118.
A
B
L
K
I
E
A
H
MA
D
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
119
both in Size and Form; theirs being a light
Hatchet, with a Bafil edge on its left fide, becauſe
it is to be uſed with one hand, and therefore hath
a fhort Handle: But the Carpenter's Ax being to
hew great Stuff, is made much deeper and heavier,
and its edge tapering into the middle of its Blade.
It hath a long Handle, becauſe it is ufed with
both their Hands,to fquare or bevil their Timbers.
When they uſe the Ax, the Timber hath com-
monly fome Bauk or Log laid under it near each
end, that the edge of the Ax may be in lefs danger
of ftriking into the ground, when they hew near
the bottom of the Timber. And they commonly
ſtand on that fide the Timber they hew upon.
THe
$ 2. Of the Adz, and its use.
He Adz marked B in Plate 8. hath its Blade
made thin, and fomewhat arching. As the
Ax hath its edge parallel to its Handle, fo the
Adz hath its edge athwart the Handle, and is
ground to a Bafil on its infide to its outer edge :
Wherefore when it is blunt they cannot well
grind it, unleſs they take its Helve out of its
Eye,
Its general Ufe is to take thin Chips off Tim-
ber or Boards, and to take off thoſe Irregularities
that the Ax by reafon of its Form cannot well
come at; and that a Plane (though rank fet)
will not make riddance enough with.
It is moſt uſed for the taking off the Irregulari-
ties on the framed Work of a Floor, when it is
framed and pin'd together, and laid on its place;
for that lying flat under them, the edge of the
Ax being parallel to its Handle ( as aforefaid
cannot come at the Irregularities to take them off;
but the Adz having its edge athwart the Handle
will. Again, upon fome Pofts framed upright,
and range with other framed Work clofe to it,
H 4
the
120
HOUSE-CARPENTRY
the edge of the Ax cannot come at the Irregulari-
ties for the reafon aforefaid,but the Adz will. And
the like for the Irregularities of framed Work on
a Ceiling, &c.
When they work upon the framed Work of a
Floor, they take the end of the Handle in both
their Hands, placing themſelves directly before
the Irregularity, at a fmall Diſtance, ftradling a
little with both their Legs, to prevent Danger
from the edge of the Adz, and ſo by degrees hew
off the Irregularity. But if they hew upon an Up-
right, they ftand directly before it.
They fometimes ufe the Adz upon fmall thin
Stuff, to make it thinner, (but this is many times
when the Ax, or fome other properer Tool, lies
not at hand) and then they lay their Stuff upon
the Floor, and hold one end of it down with the
Ball of the Foot, if the Stuff be long enough; if
not, with the ends of their Toes, and fo hew it
lightly away to their fize, form, or both.
§ 3. Of Carpenters Chiffels in general.
THough Carpenters for their finer Work ufe
all the forts of Chiffels deſcribed in the Art of
Joinery yet are not thofe forts of Chiffels ftrong e-
nough for their rougher and more common Work,
and therefore they alſo uſe a ſtronger fort of Chiffels;
and diſtinguiſh them by the name of Socket-Chiffels:
For whereas thofe Chiffels Joiners uſe have their
wooden Heads made hollow to receive the Iron
Sprig above the Shoulder of the Shank, Carpen-
ters have their Shank, made with an bollow Socket
at its Top, to receive a ſtrong wooden Sprig
made to fit into the Socket, with a fquare Shoul-
der above it, the thickneſs of the Iron of the
Socket, or fomewhat more; which makes it much.
more ſtrong, and able to endure the heavy blows
of the Maller they lay upon the head of the Chif
jel.
HOUSE-CARPENTRY
fel. And the Shanks and Blades are made ſtrong-
er for Carpenter's Ufe than they are for Joiners.
Of thefe Socket-Chiſſels they have of the ſeveral
forts deſcribed in Joinery, though not all feveral-
ly diſtinguiſhed by their Names; for they call
them Half-Inch, Three-quarter-Inch Chiffels, Inch and
Half, Two-Inch, to Three-Inch Chiffels, according to
the breadth of the Blade. But their Ufes are the
fame mentioned in Joinery, though the manner of
uſing them be fomewhat different too: For, as I
told you in Joinery, the Joiners prefs the edge of
the Blade into the Stuff, with the ftrength of their
Shoulders, but the Carpenters with the force of
the blows of the Mallet. And the Joiners guide
their Chiffels differently from what the Carpenters
do their Socket-Chilfels; for the Joiners hold the
Shank and Blade of their Chiffels, as I deſcribed in
Joinery, Sect. 11. but the Carpenters hold the
Shank of their Chiffels in their clutched left Hand,
and beat upon the Head with the Mallet in the
right. See the Figure of Socket-Chiffel in Plate 8.
C. with its Head a out of the Socket.
He
$ 4. Of the Ripping-Chiffel, and its Ufe.
The Ripping-Chiſſel deſcribed in Plate 8. D. is a
Socket-Chiffel, and is about an Inch broad,and
hath a blunt Edge. Its Edge hath not a Bafil, as
almoſt all other Chiffels have, and therefore would
more properly be called a Wedge than a Chiffel. But
moſt commonly Carpenters ufe an old caft off Chif
Jel for a Ripping-Chiffel.
Its Office is not to cut Wood, as others do, but
to rip or tear two pieces of Wood faſtned together
from one another, by entering the blunt Edge of
it between the two pieces, and then knocking
hard with the Mallet upon the head of the Handle,
till you drive the thicker part of it between the
two pieces, and fo force the power that holds
them
122
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
them together (be it Nails, or otherwiſe) to let
go their hold: For its blunt Edge fhould be made
of Steel, and well tempered, fo that if you knock
with ſtrong blows of the Mallet the Chiffels Edge
upon a Nail (though of fome confiderable Sub-
ftance) it may cut or brake it fhort afunder. If
you cannot, at once, placing the Ripping-Chiffel,
part the two pieces, you muſt uſe two Ripping-
Chiffels, placing the fecond at the remoteſt en-
trance in the breach, and driving that home, will
both open the breach wider, and loosen the firſt
Ripping-Chiffel, fo that you may take it again, and
place it farther in the breach: And fo you muſt
continue edging farther and farther, till you have
ſeparated your intended pieces.
It is fometimes uſed when Carpenters have com-
mitted Error in their Work, and muſt undo what
they did, to mend it. But it is generally uſed in all
Alterations, and old Work.
THE
§ 5. Of the Draw-knife, and its Ufe.
He Draw-knife deſcribed Plate 8. E. is feldom
ufed about Houſe-building, but for the ma-
king of fome forts of Houfhold-ſtuff; as the Legs
of Crickets, the Rounds of Ladders, the Rails to
lay Cheeſe or Bacon on, c,
When they uſe it, they fet one end of their
Work againſt their Breaſt, and the other end a-
gainſt their Work-bench, or fome hollow Angle
that may keep it from flipping, and fo preffing
the Work a little hard with their Breaſt againſt
the Bench, to keep it ſteddy in its Pofition, they
with the Handles of the Draw knife in both their
Hands, enter the edge of the Draw-knife into the
Work, and draw Chips almoft the length of their
Work, and fo fmoothen it quickly.
$6. of
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
123
TH
§ 6. Of Hook-Pins, and their use.
He Hook-Pin is defcribed Plate 8. F. a the
Pin, b the Hook, c the Head. Its Office is to
pin the Frame of à Floor, or Frame of a Roof to-
gether, whilft it is framing, or whilft it is fitting
into its Pofition. They have many of theſe Hook-
Pins to drive into the feveral Angles of the Frame.
Thefe drive into the Pin-holes through the Mor-
teffes and Tennants, and being made Taper, do
with a Hammer ftriking on the bottom of it knock
it out again; or they moft commonly ſtrike under
the Hook, and fo knock it out. Then if the
Frame lie in its place, they pin it up with wooden
Pins.
The
§ 7. Of the Level, and its uſe.
He Level defcribed in Plate 8. G. a a the Le-
vel, b the Plumbet, c the Plumb-line, dd the
Perpendicular mark'd from the top to the bottom
of the Board. The Level is from two to ten Foot
long, that it may reach over a confiderable length
of the Work. If the Plumb-line hang juft upon the
Perpendicular dd, when the Level is fet flat down
upon the Work, the Work is Level: But if it hang
on either fide the Perpendicular, the Floor, or
Work, muſt be raiſed on that fide, till the Plumb-
line hang exactly upon the Perpendicular.
Τ
THe
§ 8. Of the Plumb-line, and its use.
He Plumb-line is deſcribed in Plate 8. H. a the
Line-Rowl, b the Line. It is ufed to try the
upright ſtanding of Pofts, or other Work that is
to ſtand Perpendicular to the Ground Plot; and
then they draw off fo much Line as is neceſſary,
and faften the reft of the Line there, upon the
Line-Rowl with a Slip-knot, that no more Line
turn off They hold the end of the Line between
their
124
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
J
their Finger and Thumb half the Diameter of the
Line- Rowl off one corner of the Poft, or Work;
and if the Line and Corner of the Poft be parallel
to each other, the Poft is upright: But if the Poſt
be not parallel to the Line, but its bottom ftands
more than half the Diameter of the Line-Rowl
from the Line, the Poft hangs fo much over the
bottom of the Poft on that fide the Line bears off,
and muſt be forced backwards till the fide of the
Poft and the Line become parallel to each other:
But if the bottom of the Corner of the Poſt ſtands
out from the top of the Line, the Poft muſt be
forced forwards to comply with the Line.
§ 9. Of the Hammer, and its Ufe.
THe Hammer is defcribed in Plate 8. I. a the
Face, b the Claw, cc the Pen at the return.
fides of the Claw. This Tool was forgot to bë
deſcribed in Joinery, though they uſe Hammers
too, and therefore I bring it in here. Its chief
Ufe is for driving Nails into Work, and drawing
Nails out of Work.
There is required a pretty skill in driving a
Nail; for if (when you fet the point of a Nail)
you be not curious in obferving to ftrike the flat
face of the Hammer perpendicularly down upon
the perpendicular of the Shank, the Nail (unleſs
it have good entrance) will ſtart afide, or bow,
or break; and then you will be forced to draw it
out again with the Claw of the Hammer. There-
fore you may fee a reaſon when you buy a Ham-
mer, to chufe one with a true flat Face.
Á little trick is fometimes ufed among fome
(that would be thought cunning Carpenters ) pri-
vately to touch the Head of the Nail with a lit-
tle Ear-wax, and then lay a Wager with a Stran-
ger to the Trick, that he fhall not drive that
Nail up to the Head with fo many blows. The
ſtranger
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
12
franger thinks he fhall affuredly win, but does
afluredly lofe; for the Hammer no fooner touches
the Head of the Nail, but inftead of entring the
Wood it flies away, notwithſtanding his utmost
care in ſtriking it down-right.
$10. Of the Commander, and its Ufe.
The Commander is deſcribed in Plate 8. K. It is
indeed but a very great wooden Mallet, with
an Handle about three foot long, to uſe in both
the Hands.
It is uſed to knock on the Corners of Framed
Work, to fet them into their pofition. It is alſo
uſed to drive ſmall wooden Piles into the ground,
&c. or where greater Engines may be fpared.
SII. Of the Crow, and its Ufe.
The Crow is defcribed in Plate 8. L. a the Shank,
bb the Claws, c the Pike-end. It is uſed as a
Lever to lift up the ends of great heavy Timber,
when either a Bauk, or a Rowler, is to be laid
under it; and then they thruft the Claws be-
tween the Ground and the Timber, and laying a
Bauk, or fome fuch Stuff behind the Crow, they
draw the other end of the Shank backwards, and
fo raife the Timber.
§ 12. Of the Drug, and its Uſe.
THe Drug deſcribed in Plate 9. A. is made fome-
what like a low narrow Carr. It is ufed for
the carriage of Timber, and then is drawn by the
Handle a a, by two or more Men, according as
the weight of the Timber may require.
There are alſo fome Engines uſed in Carpentry,
for the management of their heavy Timber, and
hard Labour, viz. the Jack, the Crab, to which
belongs Pullies and Tackle, c. Wedges, Row-
lers, great Screws, &c. But I fhall give you an
account
126
HOUSE-CARPENTRY
account of them when I come to the explanation
of Terms at the latter end of Carpentry.
§ 13. Of the Ten-foot Rod, and thereby to measure
and defcribe the Ground-plot.
WE
E fhall begin therefore to meaſure the
Ground-plot, to which Carpenters ufe a Ten-
foot Rod for Expedition, which is a Rod about an
Inch fquare, and ten foot long; being divided in-
to ten equal parts, each part containing one foot,
and is divided into 24 equal parts, and their
Sub-divifions.
+
With this Rod they meaſure the length and
breadth of the Ground-plot into Feet, and if there
be odd Inches, they meaſure them with the Two-
foot Rule: Their meaſure they note down upon a
piece of paper, and having confidered the fitua-
tion of the Sides, East, West, North and South, they
draw on paper their feveral Sides accordingly, by
a fmall Scale, either elected, or elſe made for that
purpoſe. They may elect their Two-foot Rule for
fome plots; for an Inch and an half may commo-
diouſly ſerve to fet off one Foot on fome finall
Ground-plots, and then you have the Inches to that
Foot actually divided by the Marks for the half
quarters on the Two-foot Rule. But this large
Scale will ſcare ferve to deſcribe a Ground-plot a-
bove ten Foot in length, becauſe a ſmall fheet of
Paper is not above 15 or 16 Inches long, and
therefore one ſheet of Paper will not contain it,
if the Ground-plot be longer: Therefore if you
make every half quarter of an Inch to be a Scale
for two Inches, a fheet of Paper will contain 20
Foot in length; And if you make every half quar-
ter of an Inch to be a Scale for four Inches, a fheet
of Paper will contain 40 Foot. And thus by di-
minishing the Scale, the fheet of Paper will con-
tain a greater number of Feet,
But
HOUSE CARPENTRY.
127
But having either elected, or elfe made your
Scale, you are to open your Compaffes to the
number of Feet on your Scale your Ground-plot hath
in length, and then transfer that Diſtance to your
paper, and to draw a ftraight Line between the
two points, and mark that ftraight Line with East,
Weft, North or South, according to the fituation of
that fide of the Ground-plot it reprefents. Then a-
gain open your Compafles to the number of Feet
on your Scale one of the adjoining Sides contains,
and transfer that Diftance alfo to your paper, and
draw a Line between the two points, and note its
fituation of East, Weft, North or South, as before.
Do the like by the other Sides; and if either a
Quirk, or any Addition, be added to the Build-
ing, on any fide of your Ground-plot, you muſt de-
fcribe it alſo proportionably.
Then you are to confider what Apartments, or
Partitions, to make on your Ground-plot, or fecond,
or third Story, and to fet them off from your
Scale, beginning at your intended Front. As for
Example, Suppofe your Ground-plot be a Long-
fquare, so Foot in length, and 20 Foot wide:
This Ground-plot will contain in its length two
good Rooms, and a Yard behind it 10 Foot long.
If you will, you may divide the 40 Foot into two
equal parts, fo will each Room be 20 Foot fquare:
Or you may make the Rooms next the Front
deeper, or fhallower, and leave the remainder for
the Back-Room: As here the Front-Room is 25
Foot, and the Back-Room 15 Foot deep, and a
fetting off of 8 Foot broad and 10 Foot long tak-
ing out of the Yard, for a Buttery below Stairs
(if you will) and Cloſets above Stairs over it:
But what width and depth foever you intend your
Rooms fhall have, you muſt open your Compaffes
to that number of Feet on your Seale, and fet off
that Diſtance on the East, West, North or South,
Line,
赢
​128
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
Line, according to the Situation of that fide it re-
prefents on your Ground-plot. If you fet it off the
East Line, you muſt alfo fet it off on the Weft; if
on the North Line, you muſt alſo fet it off on the
South Line: Becauſe between the two Settings off
on the East and West Lines, or North or South
Lines, you muſt draw a ftraight Line of the length
of your intended Partition. And in this manner
you muſt from every Partition draw a Line in its
proper place on the Paper, by meaſuring the Dif-
tances each Partition muſt have from the outfide
of the Ground-plot.
And thus you are alſo to defcribe by your Scale
your Front, and feveral fides of the Carcafe;
allowing the Principal Pofts, Enterduces, Quar-
terings, Braces, Gables, Doors, Windows, and Orna-
ments, their feveral Sizes, and true Pofitions by
the Scale: Each fide upon a Paper by it felf: Un-
leſs we ſhall fuppofe our Mafter-Workman to un-
derſtand Perſpective; for then he may, on a fing-
gle piece of Paper, defcribe the whole Building,
as it ſhall appear to the Eye at any affigned Sta-
tion.
HAV
$ 14. Of Foundations.
Aving drawn the Draft, the Maſter-Work-
man is firſt to cauſe the Cellars to be dug,
if the Houſe fhall have Cellars. And then to try
the Ground, that it be all over of an equal firm-
nefs, that when the weight of the Building is fet
upon it, it may not fink in any part. But if the
Ground be hollow or weaker in any place, he
ftrengthens it, fometimes by well ramming it
down, and levelling it again with good dry Earth,
Lime-Core, Rubbish, &c. or fometimes with ram-
ming in Stones, or fometimes with well Planking
it; or moft fecurely by driving in Piles. But
driving in of Piles is feldom ufed for Timber
}
Houſes,
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
129
Houſes, but for Stone, or Brick Houſes, and that
but in few places of England neither, but where
the Ground proves Fenny, or Moorish. Therefore
a farther account fhall be given of Foundations,
when I come to exerciſe upon asonry, &c.
Then are the Celler-Walls to be brought up by
a Brick-layer with Erick for fmall Houfes two
Bricks thick, for bigger two and an half Bricks
thick, or three or four Bricks thick, according to
the bignefs of the Houfe, and quality of the.
Ground, as I fhall fhew when I come to Exerciſe
on Bricklaying.
But if the Houſe be defigned to have no Cellars.
(as many Country-Houfes have not) yet for the
better fecuring the Foundation, and preferving
the Timber from rotting, Mafter-Workmen will
cauſe three, or four, or five courſe of Bricks to be
laid, to lay their Ground-plates upon that Founda
tion.
The Foundation being made good, the Mafter-
Workman appoints his Under-Workmen their fe-
veral Scantlins, for Ground-plates, Principa Pofts,
Pofts, Prefjummers, Girders, Trimmers, Joyles, &c.
which they cut fquare, and frame their Timbers
to, as has been taught in the feveral Excrcifes up-
on Joinery, (whither I refer you) and there fet
them up, cach in its proper place, according to
the Draft.
The Draft of a Foundation I have defcribed in
Plate ro, according to a Scale of eight Foot in an
Inch; where you have the Front A B 20 Foot
long, the fides AC and BD so Foot long. The
Shop, or firft Room, EE 25 Foot (as aforefaid)
deep. I make the firft Room a Shop, becauſe I in-
tend to defcribe Shop-windows, Stalls, &c. though
you may Build according to any other purpofe:
The Kitching, or Back Room F F 15 Foot deep. A
Buttry or Closet, taken out of the Yard, marked G,
I
Io Foot
130
HOUSE-CARPENTRY
ro Foot deep, and 8 Foot wide: Ha Setting off in
the Yard, 4 Foot fquare for the House of Office
I Leaving way in the Shop for a Stair-Cafe 6 Foot.
and Foot. K The Yard. L The Sink-hole 1 Foo
fquare. M Leaving way in the Kitching 6 Foo:
deep, and 4 Foot wide for the Chimneys.
I do not deliver this Draft of Partitions for
the moſt Commodious for this Ground-plot, nơi
is the Houfe fet out defigned for any particular
Inhabitant; which is one main purpoſe to be
confidered of the Mafter-Workman, before he
make his Draft; for a Gentleman's Houfe mufi
not be divided as a Shop-keeper's, nor all Shop.
keepers Houſe a-like; for fome Trades require
a deeper, others may difpence with a fhallow-
er Shop, and fo an Inconvenience may arif
in both. For if the Shop be fhallow, the Front
Rooms upwards ought to be ſhallow alfo: Becauſ
by the ſtrict Rules of Architecture, all Partitions o
Rooms ought to ftand directly over one another
For if your Shop ſtands in an eminent Street, the
Front Rooms are commonly more Airy than the
Back Rooms; and always more Commodious fo
obferving publick Paffages in the Street, and in
that refpect it will be inconvenient to make the
Front Rooms fhallow: But if you have a fair Pro
fpect backwards of Gardens, Feilds, c. (which
feldom happens in Cities) then it may be conve
nient to make your Back-Rooms the larger fo
Entertainment, c. But I fhall run no farther in
to this Argument; for I fhall leave the Maſter
Workman to confult Books of Architecture, and
more particularly the Builder, which, in this cafe
they ought all to do.
}
MECHA
Page.145
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North
Plate 13
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Page. 131
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Plate 9.
Page. 131.
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( 131 )
MECHANICK EXERCISES;
O R,
The Doctrine of Handy-Works
Continued in the ART of Houfe-Carpentry.
AC, BD, CD, NO, Ground-plates, Wall-plates,
Brefummers, Lintels, the Thickness of the Wall.
AB, Alſo a Ground-plate, or Ground-fell.
PP, The Summer.
eee, Girders.
I, The Well-boule for the Stairs, and Stair-cafe.
M, Leaving a way for the Chimnies.
bb, Trimmers for the Chimny-way and Stair-cafe.
aaaa, Foyfts.
$15. Of Framing for the Floors.
T
HE four Plates, A B, A N, NO and
BO, lying on the Foundation, are cal-
led Ground-plates. They are to be of
good Oak, and for this fize of Build-
ing about eight Inches broad, and fix Inches deep.
They are to be framed into one another with
Tennants and Mortelles. The longer Ground-
plates AN and BO are commonly tennanted
into the Front and Rear Ground-plates A B and
NO, and into theſe two fide-Ground-plates are
Morteffes made for the Tennants at the ends" of
the Joyfts, to be fitted fomewhat loofly in, at am
bout ten Inches diſtance from one another, as i
the Draft. Theſe Ground-plates are to be bor'd
with an Inch and half Augre, and well pinned into
I 2
one
132
HOUSE-CARPENTRY
one another with round Oaken Pins, made taper-
ing towards the point,and fo ſtrong, that with the
hard blows of a Mallet, they may drive ſtiff into
the Augre-bole, and keep the Tennant firmly in the
Mortels. The manner of making a Tennant and
Mortefs is taught in foinery, p. 85. But becauſe
the Stuff Carpenters work upon, is generally heavy
Timber, and confequently not fo eaſily managed as
the light Stuff Joiners work upon; therefore they
do not at firſt pin their Tennants into their Mor-
teſſes with wooden Pins, left they ſhould lie out of
fquare, or any other intended Poſition : But laying
a Block, or fome other piece of Timber, under the
corner of the Frame-work to bear it hollow off the
Foundation, or what ever elfe it lies upon, they
drive Hook-pins (deſcribed in Plate 8. § 6.) into the
four Augre-holes in the corners of the Ground-
plates, and one by one fit the Plates either to a
Square, or any other intended Pofition: And when
it is fo fitted, they draw out their Hook-pins, and
drive in the wooden Pins (as aforefaid) and tak-
ing away the wooden Blocks one by one from un-
der the corners of the Frame, they let it fall into
its place.
But before they pin up the Frame of Ground-
plates,they muſt fit in the Summer marked P P,and
the Girders QQ, and all the Joyfts marked a a aa,
&c and the Trimmers for the Stair-cafe, and Chimny-
-way marked bb, and the binding Joysts marked
ec, for elfe you cannot get their Tennants into
their respective Mortefs-holes. But they do I fay fit
all theſe in, while the Frame of Ground-plates lies
loofe, and may, corner by corner,be opened to let.
the refpective Tennants into their refpective Mor-
Lelles, which when all is done, they Frame the
Raiſing-plates juſt as the Ground-plates are Framed;
and then Frame the Roof into the Raifing-plates
with Beams, Joysts, &c.
The
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
133
The Summer is in this Ground-plate placed at
25 Foot diſtance from the Front, and is to be of the
fame Scantlin the principal Plates are of, for Rea-
fons as ſhall be fhewn hereafter: And the Girders
are alfo to be of the fame Scantlins the Summers
and Ground-plates are of, though according to the
nice Rules of Architecture, the Back-Girder need not
be ſo ſtrong as the Front-Girder, becauſe it Bears
but at 14 Foot length, and the Front-Girder Bears
at 24 Foot length: Yet Carpenters (for uniformi-
ty) generally make them fo, unleſs they build an
Houſe by the Great, and are agreed for the Sum
of Money, &c.
The Joyfts Bearing at 8 Foot (as here they do)
are to be 7 Inches deep, and 3 Inches broad.
The Trimmers and Trimming Jofts are 5 Inches
broad and 7 Inches deep, and thefe Foyfts, Trim-
mers and Trimming Joyfts, are all to be pinned
into their refpective Morteflès; and then its flat-
nefs try'd with the Level, as was taught § 7:
THO
§ 16. Of fetting up the Carcafs.
Hough the Ground-plates, Girders, &c. be
part of the Carcafs, yet I thought fit in
the laſt Section they fhould be laid, before I
treated of the Superitructure, which I fhall now
handle. The four Corner Pofts called the Prin-
cipal Pots marked AA, fhould be each of one
piece, fo long as to reach up to the Beam of
the Roof, or Raifing-plate, and of the fame Scant-
lin the Ground-plates are of, viz. 8 Inches broad,
and 6 Inches thick, and fet with one of its nar-
roweſt fides towards the Front. Its lower end
is to be Tennanted, and let into a Mortefs
made near the corner of the Ground-plate Frame;
and its upper end hath alfo a Tennant on it to
fit into a Mortefs made in the Beam of the Roof,
or Rafing-piece,
I 3
AC
134 HOUSE-CARPENTRY
At the heighth of the firft Story in this Prin-
cipal Poft, muſt be made two Morteffes, one
to receive the Tennant at the end of the Bref
fummer that lies in the Front, and the other
to entertain the Tennant at the end of the
Breflummer that lies in the Return-fide.
Two fuch Morteflès muft alfo be made in this
Principal Poft at the height of the fecond Story,
to receive the Tennant at the ends of the Bref
fummers for that Story.
Though I have ſpoken fingularly of one Prin-
cipal Poſt, yet as you work this, you muſt work
all four Principal Poſts; and then fet them plumb
upright, which you muſt try with a Plumb-line
deſcribed in Plate 8 §. 8.
Having erected the Principal Pofts upright,
you must enter the Tennants of the Breflum-
mers into their proper Morteflès, and with a
Nail or two (about a fingle Ten or a double
Ten) tack one end of a deal Board, or ſome
other like piece of Stuff to the Breflummer, and
the other end to the Fram'd Work of the
Floor, to keep the Principal Poſts upright, and
in their places Then fet up the feveral Pofts
between the Principal Pofts; but thefe Pofts
muſt be Tennanted at each end, becauſe they
are to be no longer than to reach from Story
to Story, or from Entertife to Entertiſe, and
are to be framed into the upper and under Bref-
fummer. If the Entertifes be not long enough,
they ſet up a Principal Poft between two or three
Lengths, to reach from the Ground-plate up to
the Raiſing-plates
It is to be remembred. that the Breffum-
mers and Girders are laid flat upon one of
their broadeft fides, with their two narroweſt
fides Perpendicular to the Ground-plot; but
the Joyfts are to be laid contrary: For they
are
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
135
are Framed fo as to lie with one of their nar-
roweſt fides upwards, with their two broadeft
fides Perpendicular to the Ground-plot. The
reafon is, becauſe the Stuff of the Breflummers
and Girders are lefs weakned by cutting the
Morteflès in them in this Pofition, than in the
other Poſition; for as the Tennants for thofe
Morteffes are cut between the top and bottom
fides, and the flat of the Tennants are no broader
than the flat of the narroweft fide of the Joyfts;
fo the Morteflès they are to fit into, need be
no broader than the breadth of the Tennant,
and the Tennants are not to be above an Inch
thick, and confequently the Morteffes are to
be made with an Inch Mortefs-Chiflel, as was
fhewn in Joinery, p. 86. for great care must be taken
that the Breflummers and Girders be not weakned
more than needs, left the whole Floor dance,
Thefe Tennants are cut through the two nar-
roweft fides, rather than between the two
broadeft fides, becauſe the Stuff of the Girders
retains more ftrength when leaft of the Grain
of the Stuff is cut: And the Tennants being
made between the narroweft fides of the Joyces,
requires their Mortefs-holes no longer than the
breadth of that Tennant: And that Tennant
being but an Inch thick, requires its Mortefs
but an Inch wide to receive it; fo that you
Mortefs into the Girder no more than three
Inches wide with the Grain of the Stuff, and
one Inch broad contrary to the Grain of the
Stuff. But fhould the Tennant be cut between
the two broad fides of the Joyfts, the Mortefs
would be three Inches long, and but one Inch
broad, and confequently, you must cut into the
Girder three Inches crofs the Grain of the Stuff,
which would weaken it more than cutting fix
Inches with the Grain, and one Inch cross.
I 4
But
136
HOUSE-CARPENTRY
ì
But it may be objected that the Tennants of
the Joyſts being fo fmall, and bearing at an Inch
thickneſs muft needs be too weak.
Anfwer, Firſt, Though the Tennants be in-
deed but an Inch thick, and three Inches broad;
yet the whole Bearing of the Joyces do not
folely depend upon their Tennants; becauſe the
Girders they are framed into, prove common-
ly fomewhat Wainny upon their upper fides.
and the Joyſts are always fcribed to project over
that Waynninefs, and fo ftrengthen their Bearing
by fo much as they project over the Roundness or
Waynninefs of the upper fide of the Girder.
Secondly, The Floor is boarded with the length
of the Boards athwart the Joyfts, and theſe
Boards firmly railed down to the Joyfts, which
alfo adds a great ftrength to them.
Thirdly, The Joyſts are ſeldom made to Bear
at above ten Foot in length, and fhould by
the Rule of good Workmanship, not lie above
ten Inches afunder at the moſt : So that this
fhort Bearing and clofe difcharging of one an-
other, renders the whole Floor firm enough for
all common Occupation. But if the Joyces do
Bear at above ten Foot in length, it ought to
be the care of the Mafter-workman to provide
ſtronger Stuff for them, viz. Thicker and Broad-
er. If not, they cut a Tusk on the upper fide of
the Tennant, and let that Tusk into the upper
fide of the Girders.
Having erected the Principal Poſt, and other
Poits, and fitted in the Breffummers, Girders,
Joyfts, &c upon the firft Floor, they pin up
all the Frame of Carcafs-work: But though the
Girders and Joyſts deſcribed for this firft Floor,
lie proper enough for it; yet for the fecond
Story, and in this particular Cafe, the Joyfts
lie not proper for the fecond Story; becaufe
in
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
137
in the fecond Story we have defcribed a Balcony.
Therefore in this Cafe you muſt frame the
Front-Breffummer about feven Inches lower into
the Principal Poſts: Becauſe the Joyſts for the
fecond Floor are not to be Morteffed into the
Breflummer to lie even at the top with it, but
muſt lie upon the Breflummer, and project over
it fo far as you defign the Balcony to project
beyond the Upright of the Front: And thus
laying the Joyfts upon the Breffummer renders.
them much stronger to bear the Balcony, than if
Joyſts were Tennanted into the Front of the Bref-
fummer, and fo project out into the Street from it.
But the Truth is, Though I have given you a
Draft of the Joyfts lying athwart the Front and
Rear for the firſt Floor, you may as well lay
them Range with the two fides on the firft
Floor. But then the Breffummer that reaches
from Front to Rear in the middle of the Floor
muſt be ſtronger: And Girders must then be
Tennanted into the Breflummer, and the Ground-
plates at fuch a Diſtance, that the Joyfts may
not Bear at above ten Foot in length. And the
Tennants of the Joyfts must be Tennanted into
the Girders, fo that they will then lie Range with
the two sides.
But, a word more of the Breflummer: I fay
(as before) the Breffummer to Bear at fo great
Length muſt be stronger, though it fhould be
diſcharged at the Length of the Shop, (viz. at
25 Foot) with a Brick Wall, or a Foundati-
on brought up of Brick. But if it ſhould have
no Difcharge of Brick-work, but Bear at the
whole 40 Foot in Length, your Breffùmmer muſt
be yet confiderably ftronger than it need be,
were it to Bear but 25 Foot in Length; be-
cauſe the ſhorter all the Bearings of Timbers
are, the firmer they Bear. But then the Fraim-
ing Work will take up more Labour: And in
many
1 3 8
HOUS E-CARPENT RY.
For the Floor.
many
Cafes it is cheaper to put in ſtronger Stuff
for long Bearings, than to put a Girder between,
to Diſcharge the Length of the Joyſts to be fram-
ed into the Girders.
But to make ſhort of this Argument, I ſhall give
you the Scheme of Scantlins of Timber at feveral
Bearings for Summers, Girders, Foyfts, Rafters, &c. as
they are fet down in the Act of Parlia. for the Re-
building the City of London, after the late dreadful
Fire: Which Scantlins were well confulted by able
Workmen before they were reduced into an A&t.
Scantlins of Timber for the first Sorts of Houses
Foot Inches Inches
Summers under-15-12-and-8
For the Floor Wall-plates-
For the Principal Rafters under-152 at top-5 S
Roof Single Rafters
Joyfts to
Garret Floors
7-and-5
Foot at foot--36 Inch.
4-and-3 Inches.
Depth
·3-and⋅
7 Inches
-6
Length Foot Thickness
ΙΟ
Scantlins of Timber for the other two Sorts of Houſes.
Foot
Breadth Depth Thickness Depth
Foot Inches Inches Inches Inches
Summers
or Girders
Ic-to--15---11--and--8-
18---13
which bear 18—
Joyfts
which 3
3
6
·7
in length
from
21
·21--14-
2.4--- 16 ——————— 12
ΙΟ
bea r
3
7
ΙΟ
3
४
Foot
24-
26---17- 14
3
00
8
Inches Inches
Principal Difcharges upon Peers 13 and 12
in the firft Story in the
Binding Joyfts with their
Trimming Joyfts
Fronts15-
13
Thickness Inches
5- depth equal to
their own Floors
Inches Inches
Wall-plates, or Railing Pieces and Beams 8
10 and 6
--6
༡
--5
Inches Inches
Sift. and 2d: Story-8 and 6
Lintels of Oak in the
23d. Story.
--4
Length
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
139
For the Roof
Principal Rafters
from
Purlins from{
Length
Thickness
Inches Inches
Foot Foot
at foot 92
Sat foot 101
2
15 to
to 18
at top
75
18--21
21 --24
}
at top
Sat foot 12
at top 9
at foot 13
at top 95
AN
}~
Inches Inches
24-26
Length
Foot Foot
Is to 18-
18--21
-9
४
·12·
Foot Inches Inches
54
Single Snot exceeding in length-9
Rafters not exceeding in length-6-
Scantlins for Sawed Timber and Laths, ufually brought out
of the Weft Country, not less than
Breadth Thickneſs
Foot Inches Inches
Single Quarters in length--8.
Double Quart. in length---8-
Sawed Joyfts in length-----8-
Laths in length-
13/12/20
I
4
-3 -/-/-
6
4
{
5
Corner Peers---
Stone
First
Where
Stone is
ufed, to
keep to
theſe
Scant-
lins---
Scant-
lins for
Sewers
14-1 quarter and Inch
Middle or Single Peers------
Inches
18 fquare
14 and 12
fort of Double Peers between Mouſe 14 and 18
Houfes
and Houfe-
Door-Jambs and Heads-
Corner Peers-
12 and 8
Foot Inches
2-6 fquare
18 fquare
{24 and 18
14 and 10
Middle or Single Peers--
2d &3dDouble Peers between Houſe
forts---
Foot
дз
and Houſe
Door Jambs and Heads--
Thickness
3 wide Side-walls-1 Brick
SA
I
high Arch-1 Brick on end
Bottom paved plain,
and then I Brick on-
edge circular.
Gene-
i
}
140
HOUSE-CARPENTRY
IN
General RULES.
every Foundation within the Ground add
one Brick in thickness to the thickness of the
Wall (as in the Scheme) next above the Foun-
dation, to be fet off in three Courfes equally on
both fides.
That no Timber be laid within twelve Inches
of the fore fide of the Chimney Jambs: And that
all Foyfts on the back of any Chimney be laid with
a Trimmer at fix Inches distance from the Back.
That no Timber be laid within the Tunnel of
any Chimney, upon Penalty to the Workman for
every Default ten Shillings, and ten Shillings
every Week it contiuues un reformed.
That no Foyfts or Rafters be laid at greater
distances from one to the other, than twelve
Inches; and no Quarters at greater distance than
fourteen Inches.
That no Joyfts bear at longer length than ten
Foot; and no fingle Rafters at more in length
than nine Foot.
That all Roofs, Window-frames, and Celler-
floors be made of Oak.
The Tile-pins of Oak.
No Summers or Girders to lie over the Head
of Doors and Windows.
No Summer or Girder to lie less than ten
Inches into the Wall, no Joyſts than eight Inches,
and to be laid in Lome.
But
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
14E
But yet the Carcass is not compleated, till the
Quarters and Braces between the principal Pofts and
Pofts are fitted in; the Window-frames made and
fet up, and the principal Rafters, Purlins, Gables,
&c. are alfo fram'd and fet up. The manner of
their Pitch and Scantlins you will fee in Plate 11.
And the Reaſons for feveral Pitches you may find
among Books of Architecture. But the Names of
every Member you will find in the Alphabetical
Table at the latter end of thefe Exercifes on Care
pentry, referred unto by Letters and Arithmeti-
cal Figures in the Plate aforefaid.
But now we will fuppofe the Carcafs is thus
finiſhed. The Bricklayer is then to bring up the
Chimnies, and afterwards to Tile the Houſe. And
then the next Work the Carpenter has to do, is
to bring up the Stairs, and Stair-cafes, and after-
wards to Floor the Rooms, and Hang the Doors,
&c. For ſhould he either bring up the Stairs and
Stair-cafes, or Floor the Rooms before the Houſe
is Tiled, or otherwife covered, if wet Weather
fhould happen it might injure the Stairs, Floor-
ing, &c.
A, The Ground-plate, or Ground-fell.
BB, BB, The Principal Pofts.
CC, The Binding Intertifes, or indeed, more proper-
ly Interduces, Breflummers, Girders.
D, Beam of the Roof, Breffummer, or Girder to the
Garret Floor.
EE, Principal Rafters. F F, Breſummers.
G, Plate or Railing-piece, also a Beam.
aa, Jaums or Door-pofts. bb, Braces. c c, Jaums.
d, Top-rail of the Balcony.
ee, Bottom-rail of the Balcony.
fff, Pofts of the Balcony.
ggg, Banisters.
bb, Breffummers for the Shop-windows!
H, King-
142
HOUSE-CARPENTRY
H, King-piece or Joggle-piece.
ii, Struts.
kk, Top-beam, Coller-beam, Wind-beam, Strut-beam.
111, Door-bead
II, The Feet of the principal Rafters.
K, The Top of the Rafters.
IIK, The Gable end.
LL, Knees of the principal Rafters, to be made all of
one piece with the principal Rafters.
M, The Fuft of the Houſe.
NN, Purlins.
OO, Shop-windows.
PP, Flaps or Falls.
mmm, Quarters.
nn, Faums of the Window.
oo, Back and Head of the Window.
PP, Tranfums.
99, Munnions.
Tr, Furrings, or Shreadings.
>
V, Single light Windows or Lateons.
sss, Rafters.
IN
§ 16. Of Window-Frames.
:
'N Brick Buildings the Window-Frames are fo
framed, that the Tennants of the Head-fell,
Ground-fell, and Tranfum, run though the outer
Faums about four Inches beyond them: And fo
they are fet in a Lay of Morter upon the Brick-
wall before the Peers on either fide is brought up,
at about three Inches within the Front; So that
the Brick-work over the Head and about the
Jaums defend it from the Weather. Then the
Bricklayer brings up the Peers on both ſides, ſo that
the four Ends or Tennants that project through
the outer Jaums being buried and trimmed into
the Brick-work become a Faſtning to the Window-
Frame.
But
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
143
But if the Window-Frame ftands on a Timber-
houfe, the Head and Ground-fell are fometimes
Tennanted into Poſts of the Carcafs; and then
the Pofts do the Office of the outer Jaums of the
Window-Frame; and the Head and Ground-fell
are then called Entertifes, and therefore both
Head and Ground-fell, and Poſts or Jaums, are
rabbetted about half an Inch on the outſide of the
Front, to receive the Pane of Glaſs that is fitted
to it. And thus (as I faid) the Poſts become
part of the Window-Frame.
But the better way is to frame a Window as
the Brick-work Window, and to project it an
Inch and a half beyond the fide of the Building,
and to Plaiſter againſt its fides, for the better
fecuring the reft of the Carcafs from the Wea-
ther.
The Window-Frame hath every one of its
Lights Rabbetted on its outſide about half an
Inch into the Frame, and all theſe Rabbets, but
that on the Ground-fell, are grooved ſquare, but
the Rabbets on the Ground-fell is bevell'd down-
wards, that Rain or Snow, &c. may the freelier
fall off it. Into theſe Rabbets the feveral Panes
of Glafs-work is fet, and faftned by the Glafier.
The fquare Corners of the Frame next the Glafs
is Bevell'd away both on the out and infide of the
Building, that the Light may the freelier play
upon the Glafs.
And upon that Bevel is com-
monly Stuck a Molding (for Ornament fake)
according to the Fancy of the Workman, but
more generally according to the various Mode of
the Times.
of
144
HOUSE-CARPENTRY
SEY
3
§ 17. Of Stairs, and Stair-Cafes.
Everal Writers of Architecture have delivered
different Rules for the Height and Breadth of
Steps, and that according to the feveral Capacities
of the Stair-Cafes. They forbid more than fix,
and lefs than four Inches for the Heighth of each
Step, and more than fixteen, and lefs than twelve,
for the Breadth of each Step. But here we muſt
underſtand they mean thefe Meaſures fhould be
obferved in large and fumptuous Buildings: But
we have here propofed an ordinary private
Houſe, which will admit of no fuch Meaſures, for
want of room. Therefore to our prefent purpoſe.
The first and fecond Pair of Stairs the Steps
fhall be about 7 Inches high, and 10 Inches
broad. The third Pair of Stairs each Step may
be about 6 Inches high, and 9 Inches broad.
And for the fourth Pair of Stairs, each Step may
be about 6 Inches high, and 9 Inches broad. But
this Rule they do, or fhould follow, viz. to make
all the Steps belonging to the fame pair of Stairs.
of an equal height, which to do, they firft confi-
der the heighth of the Room in Feet and odd
Inches, if any odd be, and multiply the Feet by
12, whofe Product, with the number of odd
Inches, gives the fum of the whole Heighth in
Inches; which fum they divide by the number of
Steps they intend to have in that Heighth, and
the Quotient fhall be the number of Inches and
parts that each Step fhall be high. Or, if they
firſt deſign the Heighth of each Step in Inches,
they try by Arithmetick how many times the
Heighth of a Step they can have out of the whole
Heighth of the Story, and fo know the number of
Steps.
-
MECHA•
14$
MECHANICK EXERCISES:
OR,
The Doctrine of Handy-Works.
Continued in the ART of Houfe-Carpentry.
S
TAIRS are either made about a Solid
Newel, or an Open Newel, and fometimes
mixt, viz. with a Solid Newel for fome
few Steps; then a ftraight or Foreright
Afcent, with Flyers upon the fide of the fquare
Open Newel, and afterwards a Solid Newel a-
gain. Than reiterate, &'c.
The laft, viz. the Mixt Newel'd Stairs, are
commonly made in our Party-walled Houfes in
London, where no Light can be placed in the
Stair-Cafe, becauſe of the Party-walls; fo that
there is a neceflity to let in a Sky-light through
the Hollow Newel: But this fort of Stair-Cafes
take up more room than thofe with a fingle fo-
lid Newel; becauſe the Stairs of a folid Newel
fpread only upon one fmall Newel, as the fe-
veral Foulds of the Fans Woman ufe fpread a-..
bout their Center: But theſe becauſe they ſome-
times wind, and fometimes fly off from that
winding, take therefore the more room up in
the Stair-Cafe.
The manner of projecting them, is copiouſly
taught in many Books of Archite&ure, whether I
referr you: Yet not to leave you wholly in the
I
dark,
146
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
dark, I fhall give you a fmall light into it. And
firft of the Solid Nowel.
Winding Stairs are projected on a round Pro-
file, whofe Diameter is equal to the Bafe the
Stair-Cafe is to ftand on, fuppofe fix foot fquare.
This Profile hath its Circumference divided into
16 equal parts. The Semi-diameter of the Pro-
file is divided into four equal parts, and one of
them ufed for the Newel, and the reft for the
length of the Steps: If you draw Lines from
the Center through every one of the equal parts
into the Circumference, the fpace between every
two Lines will be the true Figure of a Winding-
Step. And if they were all cut out and placed
one above another, over the true place on the
Profile round about the Newel, whofe Diame-
ter is one quarter the length of a Step, you
would by fupporting each Step with a Raifer
have the modle of a true pair of Winding-Stairs.
See Plate ro. Fig. 2.
Hollow Newel'd Stairs are made about a fquare
Hollow Newel. We will fuppofe the Well-hole
to be eleven foot long, and fix foot wide; and
we would bring up a pair of Stairs from the
firft Floor eleven Foot high; it being intended
that a Skie-light fhall fall through the Hollow
Newel upon the Stairs: We muft therefore con-
fider the width and breadth of the Hollow New-
el; and in this example admit it to be two foot
and a half wide, and two foot broad: By the
width I mean the fides that range with the
Front and Rear of the Building, and by the
breadth I mean the fides that range with the
Party-walls.
I find (by the Rule aforefaid) that if I affign
18 Steps up, each Step will be feven Inches
and one third of an Inch high.
You
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
147
You muſt Note, that the flying off, or elſe
winding of theſe Steps will vary their places ac-
cording as you defign the firft Afcent. For if
you make the firft Afcent as you come ftraight
out of the Street (as in Plate 10.) on the South-
fide, you will firſt aſcend upon a Pitch of Flyers,
which Pitch (making an Angle of 38 deg. with
the Floor) with ten Steps raiſe you fix Foot
high above the Floor, and bring you eight Foot
towards the North-end of the Well-bole, by ma-
king each Step ten Inches broad.
But now you muſt leave Flyers, and make four
Winding Steps. Thefe Winding Steps are made
about a folid Newel (as hath been taught) and
this Newel ferves alfo for a Poft to Trim the Stair-
Cafe too. This Poft ftands upon the Floor, and
is prolonged upwards fo high, that Morteffes
made in it may receive the Tennants of the Top
and Bottom Rails of the whole Stair-cafe for that
Floor Thefe four Winding 1teps aforefaid,
rounding one quarter about the Newel, turns
your Face in your Afcent now towards the East,
theſe four ſteps are raiſed 2 foot, 5 Inches a-
bove the Flyers, fo that (in all) your Stairs are
now raiſed 8 foot 6 Inches. Here remains now
only 2 foot 51 Inches to the Landing place, and
theſe take up juft four Flyers, which muſt be
made as was taught before.
I
But now in your fecond pair of Stairs, it will
be proper to begin your Afcent with your Face
towards the Weft: For landing by the firſt pair
of Stairs with your Face towards the East, you
turn by the fide of the Rail on the fecond Floor
from the Eaft towards the North, and at the fur-
ther end of that Rail, you turn your Face again
from the North towards the Weft, and begin your
Afcent on the ſecond pair of Stairs.
L 2
Between
148
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
Between the Skie-light and the Afcent is a Poft
fet upright to faften Rails into : (to bound the
Stair-cafe) from the bottom of which, viz. on
the fecond Floor you trim up three Flyers, and
then turn off a quarter of a Circle, with Wind-
ing Steps: Then again, Flyers to your defigned
pitch: And then again another quarter of a Cir-
cle with Winding Steps, &c.
The Rail thefe Steps are built upon, being at
the beginning or bottom of the Afcent framed
or otherwife faftned to the firft upright Poſt,
muft at its higher end be framed into the next
Poft alfo, with a Bevel Tennant, as you were
taught to frame Quarters into one another, Numb.
5. § 17. Only with this difference, that there
you were taught to frame Square; but here you
muft frame upon the Bevel, as you were taught,
Numb 5. § 19. This Poft aforefaid bears upon
the Floor, to make its Bearing the ftronger;
and this Poft muſt be continued to fuch an
heighth, as it may alſo ſerve to receive the Ten-
nanted end of an upper and lower Rail framed
into it. And between thefe Bevelling Rails, Ban-
nifters make good the outfide of the Stair-Cafe.
Though I have here defcribed this Contrivance
of a pair of Stairs, yet do I not deliver it as the
beſt Patern for this Building, or for theſe forts
of Stairs, nor matters it to our purpoſe whether
it be or no; for (as I told you before) my un-
dertaking is the Doctrine of Handy-works, not Ar-
chitecture; but it's Architecture confiders the beft
forming of all Members in a Building for the
capacity of the Ground-Plot, and the Conveni-
ence of the intended Inhabitant; but Carpenters
(as Carpenters) only work by directions pre-
fcribed by the Architect.
Theſe therefore are the common Rules that
thefe forts of Stairs, and indeed all others with
carving
HOUSE-C AR PENTRY.
149
carving according to the Profile or Ground-plot
of the Stairs are made by. But thofe that will
fee many Inventions may confult Books of Ar-
chitecture, &c.
THO
§ 18. Of Flooring of Rooms.
Hough Carpenters never Floor the Rooms
till the Carcass is fet up, and alfo incloſed
by the Plaifterer, left weather fhould wrong the
Flooring, yet they generally Rough-plane their
Boards for Flooring before they begin any thing
elſe about the Building, that they may ſet them
by to ſeaſon: Which thus they do, they lean
them one by one on end aflant with the edge of
the Board againſt a Bauk, ſomewhat above the
height of half the length of the Board, and fet
another Board in the fame pofture on the other
fide the Bauk, fo that above the Bauk they croſs
one another: Then on the firſt fide they fet ano-
ther Board in that pofture, and on the fecond
fide another, till the whole number of Boards
are fet an end: Being fet in this poſture, there
remains the thickneſs of a Board between every
Board all the length, but juft where they cross
one another, for the Air to pafs through to dry
and fhrink them, againft they have occafion to
uſe them: But they fet them under fome cove
red Shed, that the Rain or Sun comes not at
them; for if the Rain wet them, inſtead of
fhrinking them, it will fmell them; or if the
Sun fhine fiercely upon them, it will dry them
fo faft, that the Boards will Tear or Shake, which
is in vulgar Engliſh, Split or Crack.
They have another way to dry and feafon
them, by laying them flat upon three or four
Bauks, each Board about the breadth of a Board
afunder, the whole length of the Bauks. Then
they lay another Lay of Boards athwart upon
them
L 3
150
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
them, each Board alfo the breadth of a Board
afunder; then another Lay athwart the laft,
till all are thus laid: So that in this poſition
they alſo lye hollow for the Air to play between
them.
Thus then, the Boards being Rough-plain'd
and Seafon'd. They try one fide flat, as by
Numb. 6.
31. and both the edges ftraight, as
if they were to fhoot a Joint; as by Numb. 4.
4. and cut the Boards to an exact length, be-
caufe if the Boards are not long enough to reach
athwart the whole Room, the ends may all lye
in a ſtraight Line, that the ftraight ends of o-
ther Boards laid againſt them may make the truer
Joint, and this they call a Beaking Joint. But
before they lay them upon the Floor, they try
with the Level (defcribed § 7. ; the flatnefs of
the whole Frame or Flooring again, left any
part of it fould be Caft fince it was firit framed
together; and if any part of the Floor lye too
high, they with the Adz (if the eminency be
large) take it off, as was thewed 2. Or if it
be fmall, with the Jack-Plain in Numb. 4 § 2.
till it lye level with the reft of the Floor. But
if any part of the Floor prove hollow, they lay
a Chip, or fome fuch thing, upon that hollow
place, to bare up the Board, before they nail it
down.
All this being done, they chufe a Board of the
commoneft thickneſs of the whole Pile for the
firft Board, and lay it clofe again one fide of the
Room athwart the Joyfts, and fo nail it firmly
down with two Brads into every Joyft it croffes,
each Brad about an Inch, or an Inch and a half
within the edge of the Board.
If they fhould lay more than an ordinary thick
or thin Board at the firft, they would have a
greater number of Boards to work to a Level
than
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
151
than they need, becauſe all the reſt of the Boards
muſt be equalized in thickneſs to the firſt.
Then they lay a fecond Board cloſe to the firft.
But before they nail it down they again try how
its fides agrees with the fide of the firft, and
alſo how its thickneſs agrees with the firft Board.
If any part of its edge lye hollow off the edge of
the firſt Board, they fhoot off fo much of the
length of the Board from that hollownefs to-
wards either end, till it comply and make a
clofe Joint with the firft. But if the edge fwell
in any place, they plain of that fwelling till it
comply as aforefaid.
If the ſecond Board prove thicker than the
firſt, then with the Adz (as aforefaid) they
hew away the under fide of that Board (moft
commonly cross the Grain, left with the Grain
the edge of the Adz fhould flip too deep into
the Board) in every part of it that fhall bare
upon a Joyſt, and fo fink it to a flat fuperficies
to comply with the firft Board. If the Board
be too thin, they underlay that Board upon eve-
ry Joyft with a Cap, &c.
And as this fecond Board is laid, fo are the
other Boards laid, if they be well affured the
Boards are dry, and will not fhrink; but if they
doubt the drinefs of the Boards, they (fome-
times do, or fhould) take a little more pains;
for after they have nailed down the firft Board,
they will meaſure the breadth of two other
Boards, laying them by the fide of the firft.
But yet they will not allow them their full
Room to lye in, but after there edges are true
fhot in a ſtraight line, they will pinch them off
about half a quarter of an Inch room more or
lefs, according as they guefs at the well-feafon-
edneſs of the Boards, by nailing down the fourth
Board nearer to the firft Board by half a quarter
L 4
of
152
HOUSE-CARPENTRY
of an Inch (more or lefs) then the breadth of
both Boards are. And though it be afterwards
fomewhat hard to get theſe two Boards into
that narrow room, viz. between the first and
fourth Board, yet they help themſelves thus:
The under-edge of thefe Boards that are to join
to each other, they Bevel fomewhat away, and
then the first and fourth Board being faft nailed
down (as aforefaid) they fet the outer edges of
theſe two Boards again the two nailed Boards,
letting the inner edges of the two loofe Boards
rect, and make an Angle perpendicular to the
Flock. Then with two or three Men jumping
all at once upon that Angle, theſe two Boards
with this force and reiterated jumps by degrees
preſs flat down into the fuperficies of the Floor,
or elfe with forcing Pins and Wedges, force
them together: And then with Brads they nail
them down, as they did the firft Board. Thus
afterwards they nail down a feventh Board, as
they did the fourth, and then fit in the fifth and
fixth Boards, as they did the fecond and third
Boards. And fo on, nailing down every third
Board, and forcing two others between it and
the laſt nailed Board, till the whole Floor be
boarded.
But if theſe Boards are not long enough (as
I hinted before) to reach through the whole
Room, they examine how true the ends lye in a
ftraight line with one another, by applying the
edge of the Two-foot Rule to the ends, and
where the ends of any Boards keep of the edge
of the Two-foot Rule from complying with the
whole range of ends, they with the Chiffel and
Mallet cut off that irregularity, holding and
guiding the Chiffel, fo that it may rather cut a-
way more of the bottom then top of the Board,
that fo the Boards joined to the ends of the first
laid
HOUSE-CARPENT RT
153
laid Boards, may make on the Superficies of the
Floor the finer and truer Joint.
Having thus Boarded the whole Room, not-
withſtanding they uſed their beft diligence to do
it exactly, yet may the edges of fome Boards lye
fomewhat higher than the Board it lies next to;
therefore they perufe the whole Floor, and where
they find any irregularities they plane them off
with the Plane, &c.
$
The
19. The Hanging of Doors, Windows, &c.
He Floors being Boarded, the next work
is to Hang the Doors, in which tho' there
be little difficulty, yet is there much care to be
taking, that the Door open and fhut well.
If the Door have a Door-Cafe (as Chamber-
Doors, and Clofet-Doors commonly have) the
Faums of the Door-Cafe muft ftand exactly per-
pendicular, which you muſt try by the Plumb-
line, as by § 8. and the Head of the Door-Cafe
or Entertiſe muſt be fitted exactly ſquare to the
Faums, as you where taught Numb. 3. § 17, 18,
19. and the Angles of the Door muſt be made
exactly fquare, and the Rabbets of the Door to
fit axactly into the Rabbets of the Door-Cafe. But
yet they commonly make the Door about one
quarter of an Inch fhorter than the infides of the
Jaums of the Door-Cafe, leaft if the Boards of
the Floor chance to fwell within the fweep of
the Door, the bottom of the Door fhould drag
upon the Floor.
They confider what fort of Hindges are pro-
pereft for the Door they are to Hang. When
they have a Street-door (which commonly is to
take off and lift on) they ufe Hooks and Hindges.
In a Battend-door, Back-door, or other Battend-
door, or Shop-windows, they ufe Cross-Garnets.
If a Framed Door, Side Hindges: And for Cup-
board
154
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
boards Doors, and fuch like, Duf-tails. (See the
deſcription of thefe Hindges in Numb. 1. Fig. 1.
5, 6.) But what fort of Hindges foever they
ufe, they have care to provide them of a ſtrength
proportionable to the fize and weight of the
Door they hang with them. Well-made Hindges
I have deſcribed Numb. 1. fol. 20. whither to
avoid repetition I refer you.
If they hang a Street-door (which is com-
monly about fix foot high) they firſt drive the
Hooks into the Door-poft, by entring the Poft firft
with an Augure: But the Bit of the Augure, muſt
be less than the Shank of the Hook, and the
hole boared not fo long, becauſe the Shank of
the Hook, muſt be ftrongly forced into the Au-
gure-hole, and fhould the Augure-hole be too
wide, the Shank would be loofe in it, and not
ftick ftrong enough in it. Therefore if the
Shank be an Inch fquare, an half Inch-Augure
is big enough to bore that hole with, becauſe
it will then endure the heavier blows of an Ham-
mer, to drive it fo far as it muſt go; and the
ftronger it is forced in, the fafter the Hook
fticks, but yet they are careful not to ſplit the
Door-poft.
Thefe Hooks are commonly drove in about
Fifteen Inches and an half above the Ground-fell,
and as much below the top of the Door. It is,
or fhould be, their care to chufe the Pin of the
lower Hook about a quarter of an Inch longer
than that they ufe for the upper Hook (or elfe
to make it fo) becauſe theſe Doors are com-
monly unweildy to lift off and on, eſpecially
to lift both the Hindges on both the Hooks at
once. Therefore when the lower Hindge is lift-
ed on the lower Hook, if the Door be then lifted
perpendicularly upright, fo high as the under
fide of the upper Hindge may juft reach the top
of
!
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
155
of the upper Hook, you may the eaſier flip the
Eye of the upper Hindge upon the Hook; where-
as, if the lower Hook be either fhorter, or juft
no longer than the other, inſtead of lifting it
readily upon the upper Hook, you may lift it off
the lower Hook, and fo begin the labour again.
Having drove in the Hooks, they fet the Rab-
bets of the Door within the Rabbets of the Door-
poft, and underlay the bottom of the Door, with
a Chip or two about half a quarter of an Inch
thick, to raiſe the Door that it drag not. Then
they put the Eyes of the Hindges over the Pins
of the Hooks, and placing the Tail piece of the
Hindges parallel to the bottom and top of the
Door, they fo nail them upon.
This is the Rule they generally obferve for
Hanging Doors, Shop-windows, &c. Only, fome-
times inſtead of Nailing the Hindges upon the
Door, they Rivet them on, for more ftrength.
And then, after they have fitted the Door, or
Window, into its Rabbets, and laid the Hindges
in there proper place and pofition (as aforefaid)
they make marks in the Nail-holes of the Hindge
with the point of their Compaffes upon the
Door, and at thofe marks they Pierce holes,
with a Piercer-Bit, that fits the fhank of the Ri-
vet; then they put the fhank of the Rivet thro'
the holes made in the Door; yet fo that the
Head of the Rivet be on the outfide of the Door;
and they alſo put the end of the Shank into the
Nail-hole of the Hinge, and fo whilft another
Man holds the head of the Hatchet againft the
Head of the Rivet, they with the Pen of their
Hammer batter and fpread the flat end of the
Shank over the Hole, as was fhewn Numb. 2.
fol. 24. 25.
1
The
¿
156
HOUSE-CARPENTRT.
"
S
The Titles of fome Books of Architecture.
Ebaftion Seirleo, in Folio.
Hans Bloom's Five Collumns, Folio.
Vignola, in Folio.
Vignola, Or the Compleat Architect, in Octvo.
Scamotzi, Quarto.
Palladio, Quarto.
Sir Henry Wotton's Elements of Architecture,
Quarto.
Thefe Books are all Printed in Engliſh: But
there are many others extant in feveral other
Languages, of which Vitruvius is the chief: For
from his Book the reft are generally derived; as
Philip Le Orm, Ditterlin, Marlois, and many o-
thers, which being difficult to be had among
Book-fellers, and thefe fufficient for information,
I fhall omit till another opportunity.
An Explanation of Terms ufed in Carpentry.
A
Dz, Plate 8. B § 2.
A
Arch, Any work wrought Circular, as
the top part of fome Window-frames, the top
of fome great Gates, the Roof of Vaults, &c.
Architrave, See Numb. 6. Plate 6. 1. and Plate
6. A. § I.
Ax, Numb. 7. Plate 8. A.
B
Ack or Hip-molding. The backward Hips or
Valley-Rafters in the way of an Angle for
the back part of a Building.
Bannister, Numb. 8. Plate 11. ggg.
Bafe, is commonly the Bottom of a Cullumn.
See Numb. 6. Plate 6. b. and Plate 7. B.
Bate-
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
157
Batement, To abate or waſte a piece of Stuff,
by forming of it to a defigned purpofe. Thus
inſtead of asking how much was cut off fuch a
piece of Stuff, Carpenters ask what Batement
that piece of Stuff had.
Batter, The fide, or part of the fide of a
Wall, or any Timber that bulges from its bot-
tom or Foundation, is faid to Batter, or hang
over the Foundation.
Battlement, A flat Roof or Platform to walk
on. But Battlements are more properly Walls
built about the Platform to incloſe it, as is feen
upon Towers for defence; part of the Battlement
being Breaft high that Mufquetiers may ſhoot
over it, the other part Man high, to fecure Men
from the ſhot of their Enemies.
Bauk, A piece of Fir unflit, from four to ten
Inches fquare, and of many lengths.
Bear, Timber is faid to Bear at its whole
length, when neither a Brick-wall, or Pofts, &c.
ftand between the ends of it. But if either a
Brick-wall or Pofts, &c. be Trimmed up to that
Timber, than it is faid to Bear only at the di-
ftance between the Brick-wall or Poft, and ei-
ther end of the Timber. Thus Carpenters ask
what
Bearing fuch a piece of Timber has? The an-
fwer is 10, 12, 15, &c. Foot, according to the
length of the whole Timber, or elfe according
to the diſtance between either end of the Timber.
and a
Bearer, viz. a Poft or Brick-wall that is Trim-
med up between the two ends of a piece of
Timber, to fhorten its Bearing.
Bond, When Workmen fay make good Bond,
they mean faſten the two or more pieces of Tim-
ber well together, either with Tennanting and
Morteffing, or Duff-tailing, &c.
Binding
158
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
1
1
Binding Foyfts, See Trimmers, or Plate ro.
bbb.
Brace, See Plate 11. bbb.
Brad, is a Nail to Floor Rooms with, they are
about the fize of a Ten-penny Nail, but have
not their heads made with a fhoulder over their
fhank, as other Nails, but are made pretty thick
towards the upper end, that the very top of it
may be driven into, and buried in the Board
they nail down, fo that the tops of thefe Brads
will not catch (as the Heads of Nails would)
the Thrums of the Mops when the Floor is wafh-
ing. You may fee them at moſt Ironmongers.
Break in, Carpenters with their Ripping Chif
fel do often Break in to Brick-walls; that is,
they cut holes, but indeed more properly break
the Bricks by force, and make their hole to
their fize and form.
Breffummer, See Plate 11. CC, D, FF, bh.
Bring up, A Term moft ufed amongſt Carpen-
ters, when they diſcourſe Bricklayers; and then
they fay, Bring up the Foundation fo high, Bring
up fuch a Wall, Bring up the Chimnies, &'c.
which is as much as to fay, Build the Founda-
tion fo high, Build the Wall, Build the Chim-
nies, &c.
Butment, The piece of Ground in the Yard
marked G, in Plate 10. is a Butment from the reſt
of the Ground-plot.
Buttress, That ftands on the outfide a Wall to
fupport it.
C
C.
Amber, A piece of Timber cut Arching, fo
as when a weight confiderable, fhall be fet
upon it, it may in length of time be reduced to
a ftraight.
Can-
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
159
Cantilevers, Pieces of Wood framed into the
Front or other fides of an Houſe to fuftain the
Molding and Eaves over it.
Carcass, is (as it were) the Skelleton of an
Houſe, before it is Lath'd and Plaſtered.
Cartoufes. Ornamented Corbels.
Cleer Story Window, Windows that have no
Tranfum in them.
Commander, See Numb. 7. Plate 8. K. and § 10.
Coping over, is a fort of hanging over, but not
fquare to its upright, but Bevelling on its under
fide, till it end in an edge.
Corbel, A piece of Timber fet under another
piece of Timber, to diſcharge its Bearing.
Crab, The Engine defcribed Plate 9. E. and
BCD feveral of its Appurtenances, viz. BCC
Snatch Blocks. D Levers. Its Office is to draw
heavy Timber to a confiderable height.
ร
Crow, See Plate 8. L. its Office is to remove
heavy Timber, and therefore for ftrength is made
of Iron.
Crown Poft, See Plate 11. H. Alfo the King-
Piece, or Foggle-Piece.
D
D
Iſcharge, A Brick-wall or a Poft trim'd up
to a piece of Timber over charg'd for its
Bearing, is a Diſcharge to that Bearing.
Dormer, Plate 11. QR.
Double Quarters, See Quarter.
Draft, The Picture of an intended Building
difcribed on Paper, whereon is laid down the
deviſed Divifions and Partitions of every Room
in its due proportion to the whole Building, See
Numb. 7.
7.913.
13.
Drag, A Door is faid to Drag when either by
its ill Hanging on its Hinges, or by the ill boar-
ding of the Room, the bottom edge of the Door
rides
160
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
rides (in its ſweep) upon the Floor. See § 19.
Dragon-beams, are two ftrong Braces or Struts
that ſtands under a Breffummer, meeting in a
an angle upon the fhoulder of the King-piece. In
Plate 11, ii are Dragon beams.
Draw knife, defcribed Plate 8. E and § 5.
Draw Pins, defcribed Plate 8. F and $6.
Drug, defcribed Plate 9. E and § 12.
E
E
Nter, When Tennants are put into Mortef
fes, they are faid to Enter the Morteffes.
Enterduce, or Entertiſe, deſcribed Plate 11. CC.
F
F.
Eather-edge, Boards, or Planks, that have one
edge thinner than another are called Feather-
edge ſtuff.
Fir-Pole, A fort of stuff cut off of the Fir-
tree, fmall and long, commonly from 10 to 16
Foot. They are fometimes ufed in flight Buil-
dings, to ferve inſtead of Bauks and Quarters.
Flyers, are Stairs made of an Oblong fquare
Figure, whofe fore and backfides are parallel to
each other, and fo are their ends; the fecond of
thefe Flyers ftands parallel behind the first, the
third behind the fecond, and fo are faid to fly
off from one another.
Floor, in Carpentry, it is as well taken for the
Fram'd work of Timber, as the Boarding over
it.
Foot-pace, is a part of a pair of Stairs, where-
on after four or fix fteps you arrive to a broad
place, where you make two or three paces be-
fore you afcend another ftep; thereby to cafe
the legs in afcending the reff of the fteps.
Furrings, The making good of the Rafters
Feet in the Cornice.
Gable,
}
HOUSE-CARPENTRY
!
161
G
Able, or Gable-end, in Plate 11. IIK.
G₁
Gain, The bevelling fhoulder of a Joyſt,
or other Stuff: It is ufed for the Lapping of the
end of a Joyft, &c. upon a Trimmer or Girder,
and then the thickneſs of the fhoulder is cut in-
to the Trimmer alfo Bevilling upwards, that it
may juft receive that Gain, and fo the Joyft and
Timber lye even and level upon their fuperfi-
cies. This way of working is uſed in a Floor
or Hearth.
Girder, defcribed Plate 10 QQ
Ground Plate, deſcribed Plate 11 A.
Ground Plate, The piece of Ground a Building
is to be erected upon.
H
H.
Ang over, See Batter:
>
Hips, defcribed Plate 11. EE, They are.
alfo called Principal Rafters, and Sleepers.
Hook-pin, defcribed Plate 8. F.
I.
Ack, defcribed Plate 8. M. An Engine ufed for
the removing and commodious placing of
great Timber.
Fack-Plane, called fo by Carpenters, but is in-
deed the fame that Joyners call the Fore-Plane,
See Numb. 4. § 2. and Plate 4. B. I.
Faums, Door Pofts are fo called: So are the
upright outer Pofts of a Window frame, See
Plate 11. aaaa, cc, nn.
Foggle-piece, See Plate 11. H
Foyfts, See Plate 10. aaaa.
M
Juffers,
162
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
Fuffers, Stuff, about 4 or 5 inches fquare, and
of feveral Lengths.
K.
K Ing-piece, See Foggle-piece.
Kerf, See Explanation of Terms in
Numb. 6.
Knee, A piece of Timber growing angular-
ly, or crooked, that is, a great Branch fhooting
out near the top of the Trunk of the Tree, and
is fo cut that the Trunk and the Branch make
an angle; as in Plate 11. EL, being made out
of one piece of ſtuff: It is called a Knee-piece,
or Knee-rafter.
L.
I Anding-place, is the uppermoft Step of a pair
of Stairs, viz. The Floor of the Room you
afcend upon.
Skirts, Projecting of the Eaves.
Level, See Plate 8. G and § 7.
Lever, See Plate 9. D.
Lintel, In Brick-buildings Carpenters lay a
long piece of Timber over the Peers, to Trim
with the Window-Frame; as well to bear the
thickneſs of the Brick-wall above it, as to make
Bond with the fides of the Walls.
Long-plane, The fame that Joyners call a Foyn
ter. See Numb. 4. B. 2. § 4.
Luthern, See Dormer.
M.
Odillon, See Cantelever.
Modi
Molding, Moldings are ftuck upon the
edges of ftuff to Ornament it: As on Chimney-
pieces, the inner edges of Window-frames,
Shelves, &c. See Numb. 4. §. 9.
Munnion,
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
163
!
Munnion, the upright Poft that divide the fe-
veral Lights in a Window-frame, are called
Munnions, See Plate 11. qqq.
N.
NEwel, the upright
Ewel, the upright poft that a pair of
Winding-ftairs are turned about.
Pitch
P.
The Angle a Gable-end is fet to, is
called the Pitch of the Gable-end.
Planchier, An Ornament to which the Cornice
is faftned.
Plate. A piece of Timber upon which fome
confiderable weight is framed, is called a Plate.
Hence Ground-Plate, Plate 11. A. Window-plate,
&c.
Plumb-line, defcribed Plate 8. H § 8.
Pofts, See Principal-Pofts.
Prick-Pofts, Pofts that are framed into Bref
fummers, between Principal-Pofts, for the ſtrength-
ning of the Carcaſs.
Principal-Pofts, The corner Pofts of a Carcaſs,
See Plate 11. B. B.
Profile, The fame with Ground-Plot.
Projecture, is a jetting over the upright of a
Building: Thus Balconies project into the Street.
Puncheons, Short pieces of Timber placed un-
der fome confiderable weight to fupport it.
Pudlaies, Pieces of Stuff to do the Office of
Hand-Spikes.
Purlins, See Plate 11. NN.
Quarters
Q
Uarters are fingle and double. Single Quarters
are Sawen ſtuff, two Inches thick, and four
Inches broad. The Double Quarters are fawen
to Four Inches fquare.
M 2
Quar
164
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
Quartering, In the Front of the third Story in
Plate 11. All the Work, except the Principal
Pofts, Jaums, and Window-frames, viz. the up-
right Triming, and the Braces is called Quarter-
ing.
Quirk, A piece taken out of any regular
Ground-plot, or Floor: For example, the whole
Ground-plot A BCD. in Plate 10. is a regular
Ground-plot. But if the piece K be taking out
of it, K fhall be a Quirk.
R.
R After, See Plate 11. cccc.
Rail, Rails ftand over and under Banni-
fters of Balconies, Stair-Cafes, &'c.
Raifer, is a Board fet on edge under the Fore-
fide of a ſtep.
Raifing-piece, Pieces that lye under the Beams
upon Brick or Timber by the fide of the Houfe.
Rellifh, See Projecture.
Return, Either of the adjoining fides of the
Front of an Houfe, or Ground-plot, is called a
Return-fide, as in Plate 10. the Front is A B,
the Return-fides to this Front is AC and
B D.
Ridge, the meeting of the Rafters on both
fides the Houfe is called the Ridge.
4
Ripping-Chiffel, See Plate 8. D § 4.
Roof, The Covering of a Houfe: But the word
is uſed in Carpentery for the Triming work of
the Covering.
S.
Scribe, See Number 6. in Explanation of
Terms.
Shake, Such ftuff as is crackt either with the
heat of the Sun, or the droughth of the wind,
is called Shaken Stuff.
Shingles,
HOUSE-CARPENTRY.
165
Shingles, Small pieces of Wood uſed to cover
Houſes with, inſtead of Tiles or Slates.
Shreadings, See Plate 11. the lower end of
the Principal Rafters markt vr are called Shrea-
dings, or Furrings.
Sleepers, The fame with Purlins.
Snatch-blocks, See Plate 9. BCC.
Socket-Chiffel, Deſcribed Plate 8. and § 3.
Soils, or Sells, are either Ground-Sells defcribed
Plate 11. A. or Window Sells, which are the bot-
tom Pieces of Window Frames.
Stair-Cafe, The incloſure of a pair of Stairs,
whether it be with Walls, or with Walls and
Railes and Banniſters, &c.
Stancheons, See Puncheons.
Strut, See Dragon-beam.
Summer, In Plate 10. PP is a Summer, where
into the Girders are Tennanted.
T
T.
En-Foot-Rod, See § 13.
Tranfom, The Piece that is fram'd a-crofs
a double Light-window. See Plare 11. PP.
Trim, When workmen fit a piece into other
Work, they fay they Trim in a piece.
Trimmers, See Plate 10. bbbb.
Trufs, See King-piece, or Foggle-piece.
Tusk, A Bevel fhoulder, made to ftrengthen
the Tennant of Joyft, which is let into the
Girder.
V.
Alley Rafter, See Back, or Hip-moldingi
Valley Rafter,
M 3
Well:
166
HOUSE-CARPENTRY,
1
1
W.
WEll-bole, See Plate 10. I.
Wall Plate, In Plate 10. AC, BD and
NO are Wall-Plates.
Thus much of Carpentry. The next Exercifes
will (God willing) be upon the Art of Turn-
ing, Soft Wood, Hard Wood, Ivory, Brafs, Iron,
&c. With feveral Inventions of Oval-work, Rofe-
work, Rake-work, Angular-work, &c.
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167
MECHANICK EXERCISES:
OR,
The Doctrine of Handy-Works.
Applied to the ART of TURNING.
A
Of Turning.
S by placing one Foot of a pair of
Compaffes on a Plane, and moving a-
bout the other Foot or point, deſcribes
on that Plane a Circle with the mo-
ving point; fo any Subftance, be it Wood, Ivory,
Brafs, &c. pitcht ſteddy upon two points (as
on an Axis) and moved about on that Axis, al-
fo deſcribes a Circle Concentrick to the Axis:
And an Edge-Tool fet fteddy to that part of the
outfide of the aforefaid Subſtance that is neareſt
the Axis, will in a Circumvolution of that Sub-
ftance, cut off all the parts of Subftance that
lies farther off the Axis, and make the outfide
of that Subſtance alfo Concentrick to the Axis.
This is a brief Collection, and indeed the whole
Sum of Turning.
Now, as there is different Matter, or Sub-
ftance, to be Turned, fo there is alfo different:
Ways, and different Tools to be uſed in Turning
each different Matter.
M 4
The
168
TURNING.
The different Matters are Soft Wood, Hard
Wood, Ivory, Brafs, Iron, &c. each of which
(when I have defcribed the Turners Tools for
foft Wood) I fhall difcourfe upon. But,
}
§ I. Of the Lathe.
THe Lathe is defcribed in Plate 12. A. This
Machine is fo vulgarly known, that tho'
it cannot be deſcribed in Draft, fo as all its parts
fhall appear at one fingle View, yet enough of
it to give you the Names of its feveral Mem
bers, and their Ufes are reprefented, viz,
aaaa The Legs or Stiles.
bb The Cheeks or Sides.
cc The Puppets.
d The Screw.
d The Pike.
e The Reft.
f The Handle of the Screw.
The Tennants of the Puppets,
b The Wedge.
i The Treddle.
k The Cross-Treddle.
1 The Pole.
en The String.
7 The Horn.
1. Of the Legs, or Stiles.
THe Legs, or Stiles, are commonly about two
Foot and ten Inches high, and are fet per-
pendicularly upright; having each of them a
Tennant on its upperend, of the thickneſs the
two Cheeks are to ftand affunder: And on ei-
ther fide the Shoulder of thefe two Tennants, is
laid one of the Checks clofe to the fides of the
Tennants, and fo pinned clofe to the Tennant, as
was
حساس
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Page.168
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TURNIN G,
169
was taught Numb. 5. § 17. But a fteddier and
more fecure way, is to have a ſtrong Iron Screw
made with a fquare Shank near the Head, that
when it enters into a fquare hole made fit to it
in the hithermoft Cheek, it may not twift about,
but by the Turning about of an Iron Nut, upon
the fore-end of the Screw, the Nut fhall draw
the two Cheeks clofe to the two fides of the
Tennants, or the upper ends of the Legs.
A
2. Of the Cheeks.
SI told you. the Legs are to be fet up
directly perd cular, fo the Cheeks are
to be faftned direcuy Horizontally upon them:
And the Legs and Cheeks are to be faftned with
Braces to the Floor, and other parts of the
Room the Lathe ftands in, according to the
convenience of the Room for faftning, that the
whole Lathe may ftand as fteedy and folid as
may be. For if with Turning large Work the
ftrength of the Tread fhould make the Lathe
tremble, you will not be able to make true and
neat Work; but the Tool will job into fofter
parts of the Stuff, and fly off where a Knot or
other harder parts of the Stuff comes to the
Tool.
3. Of the Puppets.
The are quite to
He Puppets are fquare pieces of Wood, of a
Subſtance convenient to the light or heavy
work they intend to Turn: And Turnners will
rather have their Puppets too ftrong than too
weak; becauſe, though the Puppets be very
ſtrong, yet they can turn light work with them;
whereas if they be weak they cannot turn Hea-
vy work with them: For the weight of heavy
unequal tempered Stuff running about, will be
apt both to thake the Puppets, aud loofen the
fmall
1
170
TURNING.
ſmall hole of the Wedge in the Tennant; by
either of which Inconveniences the Work in the
Lathe may tremble, as aforefaid.
And though no fize for the height of the Pup-
pets can be well afferted, becauſe of the feveral
Diameters of Work to be Turned, yet Workmen
generally covet to have their Puppets as fhort as
they well can, to bear their Work off the Cheeks
of the Lathe, becauſe theſe Puppets ftand in the
firmer, and are lefs fubject to loofen. But then,
if the Diameters of the work be large, the Pup-
pets may be too fhort to Turn that work in: For
the Pikes of the Puppets muft ftand fomewhat
more than half the Diameter of the Work a-
bove the fuperficies of the Cheeks. Therefore
Turners have commonly two or three pair of
Puppets to fit one Lathe, and always ftrive to ufe
the ſhorteſt they can to ferve their Work, un-
leſs the ſhortnefs of the Legs of the Lathe, makes
the work fall too low for the pitch of the Work-
man that is to work at the Lathe. Therefore
in the making of the Lathe, the height of the
Legs with relation to the intended Work, and
height of the Work-man, are to be well confi-
dered.
At the lower end of thefe Puppets are made
two Tennants, of fuch a thickneſs, that they
may eaſily ſlide in the Grove between the two
Cheeks, and fo long, that a Morteſs through it
of the length of the Cheeks depth, and a fuffi-
cient ftrength of Wood below it may be con-
tained. Into this Mortefs is fitted a Tapering-
Wedge, fomewhat lefs at the fore end, and big-
ger at the hinder end than the Mortefs, that as
it is forced into the Mortefs with a Mallet, or a
Maul, it may draw the bottom Shoulder of the
Puppet clofe and firmly down upon the Cheeks,
that they may neither joggle or tremble in work-
ing.
94. Of
TURNING.
171
U
4. Of the Horn.
Pon the Right Hand Puppet on the out fide
near the top of it, is hung the Tip-end
of an Horn with its Tip downwards, to hold
Oyl in, and ought to have a Wooden round
Cover to fit into it, that neither Chips or Dirt
get in to spoil the Oyl; and in the handle of
the Cover fhould be fitted a wooden Butten,
which may ferve for an Handle to the Cover?
And through this Butten fhould be faftned an
Iron Wyer, to reach almoſt to the bottom of
the Horn: This Wyer ſtands always in the Oyl,
that fo oft as the Workman has occafion to
oyl the Centers of the Work, to make his
Work flip about the eafier, he takes the wood-
en Cover by the Button, Wyer and all, and with
the end of the Wyer, oyls his Center-holes,
and pops his Wyer and Cover again into the
Horn against he has occafion to uſe it the next
time.
NE
5. Of the Pikes and Screw.
Ear the upper end of one of thefe Puppets
is faftned a ftrong Iron Pike, but its point
is made of tempered Steel: And near the upper
end of the other Puppet is fitted an Iron Screw
quite through a Nut in the Puppet, whofe point
is alfo made of Temper'd Steel. This Iron
Pike in one Puppet, and the Screw in the other
Puppet are fo fitted into the Puppets, that their
Shanks lye in a ſtraight Line with one another,
and both their points lie alfo in that ftraight
Line pointing to one another: And in the Head
of the Iron Screw is a Hole where into is fitted
an Iron Handle about feven or eight Inches long,
with a round Knob at each end of it that it flip
not
172
TURNING.
not through the hole in the Head. This Iron
Handle is to turn about the Screw forward or
backward as your purpoſe fhall require.
Upon the points of this Screw and Pike the
Centers of the Work are pitcht, and afterwards
ſcrewed with the Screw hard, and fo far into the
Stuff, that it may not flip off the points in
working, eſpecially if it be foft Wood, and the
work large and heavy.
Alfo, near the upper end of theſe Puppets,
upon that fide the Workman ftands when he
works, the Wood of the Puppets is wrought a-
way to fquare flat fhoulders fomewhat below
the Pikes, that the Reft may (if occafion be)
lye near the Pikes, and bear teddy upon the
Shoulders.
The
6. Of the Reft.
He Reft is a fquare piece of Stuff about an
Inch, or an Inch and half thick, and two
Inches, or two and an half broad, and fomewhat
longer than the diſtance between the Puppets.
Its Office is to reft the Tool upon, that it may
lie in a ſteddy pofition while the Workman ufes
it.
But
7. Of the Side-Reft.
Ut befides this Reft, Turnners have another
Reft, called the Side-reft. This they uſe
when they Turn the flat fides of Boards; be-
cauſe the flat fides of Boards ftanding athwart
the Pikes, and this Reft ftanding alfo athwart
the Pikes, they can the more conveniently reft
their Tool upon it. It is marked e in plate 13.
and is in the Plate disjunct from the Lathe; as
well becauſe it and the Common Reft cannot
both together be expreft in Picture, as alfo be-
cauſe it is made to take off and put on as oc-
cafion requires.
The
TURNING.
$73
The Reft is marked a, and is a piece of an
Oaken plank, or Elm plank, about two Inches
think, and ftands fo high above the Cheeks of
the Lathe as the points of the Pikes do, or fome-
times a little higher: Its Breadth is about a
Foot, or more, or lefs, as the Work requires,
or the Workman fancies. The Bottom of it is
firmly nailed to one fide of a Quarter of Oak,
or Elm, of about three Inches fquare, and two
Foot, or two Foot and an half long, clofe to
one end, as you fee in the Figure at b, fo as
the Reft ftand upright to the piece of Quarter.
This piece of Quarter is as a Tennant to flide
into a fquare Iron Collar marked e; this fquare
Iron Collar is made fo long as to reach through
the depth of the Cheeks of the Lathe, and to
receive the Quarter or Tennant thruft through
it above the Cheeks, and a Wedge under the
Cheeks marked d, which Wedge (when ftiff
knock'd up) draws the Tennant ftrong and firm-
ly down to the Cheeks, and confequently keeps
the Side-reft fteddy on any part of the Cheeks,
according as you flide the Collar forwards or
backwards towards either Pike, or as you thruſt
the Reſt nearer or farther to and from the Pikes.
Some Turnners for fome Work, inſtead of a
plank for this Reft, faften to one end of the
Quarter or Tennant, a long Iron with a round
Cilindrick Socket in it, as at the Figure marked
fin Plate 13, a is the Socket of about an Inch,
or an Inch and an half Diameter, to reach with-
in two or three Inches as high as the Pikes,
and into this Socket they put a long round Iron
Shank, as in Figure g of the fame Plate, a is
the Shank, and at the top of this Shank is made
the Reft, marked b. This Shank (I fay) flips
eafily into the Socket, that it may be raiſed, or
let down, as occafion requires, and by the
help
174
TURNING.
help of a Screw through the Socket at e, may
be faftned at that length.
The Reft, (by reafon of its Round Shank)
may be alfo turned with its upper edge more
or lefs oblique or athwart the Work, or elfe
parallel to the Work, according as the purpoſe
may require.
Near one end of the Reft is fitted and faftned
a piece of Wood about an Inch fquare, and ten
or twelve Inches long: This piece of wood is
fitted ſtiff into a fquare Hole or Mortefs made
in the Puppet, a little above the Shoulder for the
Reft, to fet the Reft to any diſtance from the
Pikes, which, with the ends of wooden Screws
entred into wooden Nuts on the further fide of
the Puppet, and coming through againft the Reft,
keeps the Reft from being thruſt nearer to the
work when the Workman is working.
A
¶ 8. Of the Treddle and Crofs-Treddle.
Bout the middle between the ends, is pla
ced a wooden Treddle about two Inches
and an half broad, an Inch thick, and three
Foot long, and fometimes three and an half, to
four Foot long. The hinder end of it is faſt-
ned to the Floor, with a piece of Leather (fome-
times a piece of the Upper-leather of an old
Shoe, which piece of Leather is nailed to the
under-fide of the hinder end of the Treddle, fo
as to leave Leather enough beyond the end of
the Treddle to nail down upon the Floor; which
Treddle being thus nailed down, will move up-
wards, as the Spring of the Pole draws up the
String; the String being alfo faftned to the fore-
end of the Treddle.
The
TURNING.
175
The hinder end of the Treddle is nailed down
about a foot, or a Foot and an half behind the
Lathe, and about the middle between both the
Legs, fo that the fore-end of the Treddle reaches
beyond the fore-fide of the Lathe, about a Foot
and an half, or two Foot. And Note, that the far-
ther the Fore-end of the Treddle reaches out be-
yond the Fore-fide of the Lathe, the greater will
the ſweep of the Fore-end of the Treddle be,
and confequently it will draw the more String
down; and the more String comes down at one
Tread, the more Revolutions of the Work is
made at one Tread, and therefore it makes the
greater riddance of the Work.
But then again, if the Fore-end of the Tred-
dle reach too far before the Fore-fide of the
Lathe, it may draw the end of the Pole fo low
as to brake it: And it will alſo be the harder to
Tread down, becauſe the power commanding
(which is the weight of the Tread) lies fo far
from the weight to be commanded, which is
the ſtrength of the Pole, augmented by the di-
ſtance that the end of the Treddle hath from the
Work in the Lathe; fo that you may fee, that
the nearer the Fore-end of the Treddle lies to
the Perpendicular of the Work in the Lathe,
the eaſier the Tread will be: And fome Turners
that Turn altogether fmall Work, have the Fore-
end of the Treddle placed juft under their work;
fo that their String works between the Cheeks
of the Lathe But then the Sweep of the Fred-
dle being fo fmall, the Pole draws up but a
Imall length of String, and confequently makes
the fewer Revolutions of the Work in one Tread,
which hinders the riddance of the Work
lefs with every Spring of the Pole, they fhould
lift their Treading Leg fo high, as to tire it
; un-
quickly
1
175
TURNING.
quickly with bringing it down again, after it is
raiſed to fo uncommodious a pofition.
This Treddle hath a fquare Notch in the mid-
dle of the further end, about an Inch and an
half wide, and two Inches long, that the end
of the String may be wound either off or on the
Wood on either fide the Notch, to lengthen or
fhorten the String, as the different Diameters of
the Work fhall require.
About the midde of the Treddle is fixed a
round Iron Pin about half an Inch in Diame-
ter; fo as to ftand upright about an Inch and
an half, or two Inches long above the Treddle.
And under the Cheeks is alfo fixed down the
Cross-Treddle, which is fuch another piece of
Wood as the Treddle is, but longer or fhorter,
according to the length of the Lathe And in
the middle of the Breadth of the Cross-Treddle,
is made feveral holes all a-row to receive the I-
ron Pin fet upright in the Treddle. Theſe holes
are commonly boared about two or three Inches
affunder, that the Pin or the Treddle may be put
into any one of them, according as the String is
to be placed nearer to or further off either end.
of the Lathe,
I 9. Of
TURNING
877
¶9. Of the Pole.
THe Pole is commonly made of a Fir-pole,
is longer or horter, or bigger or
and
fmaller, according to the weight of the Work
the Workman defigns to Turn: For the thicker
the Pole is, the harder muft the Tread be to bring
it down; and for this reaſon, if the Pole prove
too ſtrong for their common or continued Work,
they will weaken it by cutting away (with
a Draw-knife, defcribed Numb. 7. Plate 8. E,
and § 5.) part of the fubftance off the upper
and under fides of the Pole.
The thick end of this Pole is nailed (or in-
deed rather pinned) up to fome Girder, or o-
ther Timber in the Ceiling of the Room, with
one fingle Nail or a Pin, that the Pole may
move upon that Nail, or Pin, as on a Center,
and its thin end paſs from one Puppet to the o-
ther, as the Work may require. And at about
a diſtance or more, is alfo nailed up to fome
Joyſts, or other Timbers of the Ceiling, two
Cheeks of a convenient ftrength, and at the low-
er end of theſe two Cheeks is nailed a Quarter
or Batten to bear the Pole, though the weight
of a Tread be added to it, as you may fee at
nn in Plate 12.
10. Of the Side-Relt.
But it fometimes happens that the Ceiling of
the Work-room is not high enough for the
Pole to play upwards and downwards, there-
fore in fuch cafe, they place the thin end of
the Pole at fome confiderable diftance off the
Lathe, either before or behind it, and fo make
the Spring of the Pole Horizantal towards the
Lathe, conveying and guiding the String from
the Pole to the Work by throwing it over a
N
Rowler
178
TURNIN G.
Rowler, moving on two Iron Center-pins faftned
at both ends, and placed parallel to the Cheeks
of the Lathe, above the Work as high as they
and thus every Tread draws the Rowler a-
bout: But fhould the Rowler not move about
upon theſe Irons Pins, the String every Tread
would both cut a Groove in the Ruler, and fret
it felf more or lefs upon the Rowler.
can;
¶ 11. Of the Bow.
Ome Turnners that work light Work, fuch as
Cane-heads, Ink-horns, &c. for which they
need fcarce remove the Puppets off their Lathe,
ufe a common Bow, fuch as Archers ufe. The
middle of this Bow they faften over Head, with
its String Horizontally downwards, and in the
middle of that String they faften another String
perpendicularly downwards, whofe other end
they faften to the Treddle, and the String wound
round their Work brings it about.
But
¶ 12. Of the Great Wheel.
ut when Turnners work heavy Work, fuch
as the Pole and Tread will not Command,
they uſe the Great Wheel. This Wheel is fo
cominonly_known, that I fhall need give you
no other Defcription of it than the Figure it
felf, which you may fee in Plate 14. a. It is
turned about with one, and fometimes with two
Iron Handles, according as the weight of the
Work may require.
Its String hath both its ends ftrong and neat-
ly faftned together, not with a Knot, but lapt
over one another about three Inches in length,
and fo is firmly whipt about with fmall Gut,
that it may the eafier pafs over the narrow
Groove in the edge of the Rowler. This String
is laid in the Groove made on the edge of the
Wheel,
}
TURNING.
179
Wheel, and alfo in the Groove of the Work.
But before it is laid upon both, one part of the
String is lapt over and croffes the other, and
the String receives the Form of a Figure of ·
Eight (only one of its Bows or Circles becomes
no bigger than the Groove in the Work, and the
other as big as the Groove in the Wheel.)
Then the whole Frame wherein the Wheel is
fixed is removed farther off the Lathe, that the
String may draw tight upon the Work.
The reaſon why the String thus croffes it felf,
is, becauſe it will touch and gird more upon
the Groove of the Work, and confequently (as
was faid before 14.) will the better command
the Work about.
The manner of Turning this Wheel, is as the
manner of Turning other Wheels with Han-
dles.
Befides the commanding heavy Work about,
the Wheel rids Work fafter off than the Pole
can do; becauſe the fpringing up of the Pole
makes an intermiffion in the running about of
the Work, but with the Wheel the Work runs
always the fame way; fo that the Tool need
never be off it, unless it be to examine the work
as it is doing.
When the Wheel is ufed, its Edge ftands athe
wart the Cheeks of the Lathe.
13. Of the Treddle-Wheel.
This is a Wheel made of a round Board of
about two Foot and an half Diameter, con-
veniently to ſtand under the Cheeks of the Lathes
It alſo hath a Groove on its Edge for the String
to run in; it hath an Iron Axis with a Crook or
Crank at one end: And on this Crook is flipt
the Noofe of a Leather Thong, which having
its other end faftned to a Treddle, does, by keep-
N 2
ing
180
TURNING.
ing exact time in Treads, carry it ſwiftly about
without intermiffion.
But the length of the Thong muſt be ſo fitted,
that when the Wheel ftands ftill, and the Crook
at the end of the Axis hangs downwards, the
end of the Treddle to which the Thong is faftned
may hang about two or three Inches off the
Ground: For then, giving the Wheel a fmall
turn with the Hand, till the Crook rifes to the
higheft, and paffes a little beyond it; if juſt
then (I fay) the Workman gives a quick Tread
upon the Treddle to bring the Crook down again
with a jerk, that Tread will fet it in a motion
for feveral revolutions; and then if he obferves
to make his next Tread juft when the Crook
comes about again to the fame pofition, it will
continue the motion, and cauſe of the motion,
and keep the Wheel always running the fame
way, if he punctually times his Treads.
The Treddel Wheel is uſed for ſmall work on-
ly, as not having ſtrength enough to carry hea-
vy
Work about, fuch as Cane-beads, Small Boxes,
&c. and it is fitted below the Cheeks between
the Puppets, as the Bow is above.
Befides thefe Inventions to carry about the
Work in the Lathe, there are many more; as
with a great Iron Wheel, having Teeth on its
edge, which Teeth are to fall into an Iron Nut
upon an Iron Axis, pitcht upon the Pikes of the
Puppets of the Lathe, or fitted into Collars, &c.
Alfo, for very heavy Work, as Guns, great
Mortars, &c. Wheels turn'd with Wind, Water,
or Horſes, to carry the Work about. Of which
more in their proper places.
14 Of
TURNING.
181
i
U
14. Of the String.
Pon the thin end of the Pole is wound a
confiderable Bundle of String, that as a
Mandrel requires to be bigger than ordinary, or
the Work heavier, they may unwind fo much of
the String as will compafs the Mandrel twice,
or (if the Work be heavy) thrice; the eafier
to carry it about.
This String is made of the Guts of Beafts
(moſt commonly of Sheep, and fpun round of
feveral thickneffes, of which the Workman chu-
fes fuch fizes as are apteft for his Work; for
large and heavy Work, very thick, but for fmall
and light work, thin: And there are feveral rea-
fons for his Choice; for a thin String will be too
weak for heavy Work; but if it were not too
weak for heavy work, it would be apt to mark
foft wood more than a thick String would,
when they are forc'd to ſhift the String, and let
it run upon the Work. Befides, a thin String
(though it were ſtrong enough) would not fo
well bring heavy Work about; becaufe being
fimall, but little of the String touches the wood
to command it, unleſs they wind it the oftner
about the Work, which both takes up time,
and hazards the breaking of the String, by the
fretting of the feveral twifts againſt one ano-
ther.
Now a thick String is uncommodious for
ſmall work; becauſe having a ſtrength and ſtub-
bornneſs proportionable to its fize, it will not
comply clofely to a piece of Work of fmall
Diameter, but will be apt to flip about it, un-
lefs both Pole and Tread be very ftrong; and
then, if the Center-holes be not very deep, and
the Pikes fill them not very tight, and the Pups
pets alfo not very well fixt, the ftrength of the
N 3
String
182
TURNING.
String will alter the Center-holes, eſpecially,
when the work is upon foft Wood, or elſe it
will endanger the breaking the work in its weak-
eft place.
15. Of the Seat.
Parallel to the Cheeks on the infide the Lathe
is fitted a Seat, about two and an half Inches
fquare, and the whole length of the Lathe, ha-
ving an Iron Pin faftned on either end the under-
fide of it: It lies upon two Bearers of Wood,
that are faftned athwart the outer fides the Legs,
(or elfe to fet it higher) the outer ends of the
Cheeks, according to the height of the perfon
that works at the Lathe. Thefe Bearers reach
in length fo far inwards, as that they may be
capable to bear the Seat fo far off from the
Lathe, as in the Diameter of the Work they in-
tend to Turn in the Lathe, and alfo the bulk of
the Workman that ſtands between the Lathe and
it, may be contained.
It is not called a Seat, becauſe it is fo; but
becauſe the Workman places the upper part of
his Buttocks againſt it, that he may ftand the
fteddier to his Work, and confequently guide
his Foot the firmer and exacter.
The two Bearers have feveral Holes made in
them, from within fixteen Inches off the Lathe,
to the ends of them, that the Iron Pins faftned
in the ends of the Seat, may be removed nearer
or farther off the Lathe, according to the great-
nefs or ſmallneſs of the Diameter of their Work.
Having thus defcribed the parts of a Common
Lathe, I fhall now follow with their other Tools
alfo,
§ II. Of
TURNING.
183
§ II. Of Gouges.
Ouges are marked BB in Plate 15. They do
the Office of Fore-plains in Joynery, and the
Fack-plains in Carpentry, and ferve only to take
off the Irregularities the Hatchet, or fometimes
the Dram-knife leaves, after the work is hewed
or drawn pretty near a Round with either of
them: And therefore as the Fore-plain is made
with a Corner-edge, only to take off the Irregu-
larities of a Board, fo the Gouge that it may al-
fo take off the Irregularities or Extuberancies
that lye fartheft from the Axis of the Work, and
alſo frame pretty near the hollow Moldings re-
quired in the Work, precede the Smoothing-Chif
fels. And that the Gouge may the more com-
modioufly and effectually do it, the Blade of
this Tool is formed about half round to an edge,
and the two extream ends of this half round a
little floped off towards the middle of it, that
a fmall part about the middle may the eafier
cut off the prominencies that are not concen-
trick to the Axis, and fo bring the Work into a
Method of Formation.
The hollow edge is ground upon the Corner of
a Grind-ftone, which in fhort time wears the out-
fide of that Corner to comply and form with
the hollow of the Gouge. It is afterwards fet
upon a round Whet-ftone, that fits the hollow of
the edge, or is fomewhat lefs. But they do not
fet their Gouges or Chiffels as (I told you in
Numb. 4. § 10.) the Joyners do; for Turnners
Tools being fomewhat unweldy, by reafon of
their fize, and long Handles, they lay the Blade
of the Gouge with its convex fide upon the Ref
of the Lathe; and fo with the Whet-ftone in their
right hand they rub upon the Bafil the Grind-
fone made, and as they rub, they often turn
N 4
another
184
TURNING.
another part of the hollow of the edge to bear
upon the round of the Whet-ftone, till they have
with the Whet-ftone taken off the roughnefs of
the Grind-flone.
Of thefe Gouges there are feveral fizes, viz.
from a quarter of an Inch, to an whole Inch,
and fometimes for very large Work, two Inches
'over.
The Handles to thefe Gouges (and indeed to
all other Turning Tools) are not made as the
Handles of Joyners or Carpenters Tools are, but
tapering towards the end, and fo long that the
Handle may reach (when they uſe it) under
the Arm-pit of the Work-man, that he may
have more ſtay and fteddy management of the
Tool.
>
MECHA
1
J
a
V
9
V
a
O
Page. 185
}
}
185
MECHANICK EXERCISES:
OR,
The Doctrine of Handy-Works.
(
Applied to the ART of TURNING.
T
§ III. Of Flat Chiffels.
HE Flat Chiffels are marked CC in
Plate 15. Thefe do the Office of Smooth-
ing Plains in Foyning and Carpentry; for
coming after the Gouges they cut off
the prominent Rifings that the Gouges leaves a-
bove the hollow.
The edges of thefe Flat Chiffels are not ground
to fuch a Bafil as the Joyners Chiffels are, which
are made on one of the Flat fides of the Chif
fels, but are Bafil'd away on both the flat fides;
fo that the edge lyes between both the fides in
the middle of the Tool: And therefore either
fides of the Tool may indifferently be applied to
the Work; which could not well be, fhould the
edge lye on one of the fides of the Tool: Be-
caufe, if they fhould apply the Bafil fide of
the Tool to the Work, the thickneſs of the Ba-
fil would bear the edge of the Tool off: And
fhould they apply that fide of the Tool the edge
lyes on to the Work, the fwift coming about of
the Work would (where a fmall irregularity of
Stuff
186
TURNING.
Stuff ſhould happen ) draw or jobb the fuddain
edge into the Stuff, and fo dawk it; which if
the Stuff be already fmall enough, would now
be too fmall, becauſe in Turnings, all Irregula-
rities muſt be wrought fmooth down.
Of thofe Flat Chiffels there are feveral fizes,
viz. from a quarter of an Inch, one Inch, two
Inches, to three Inches broad, according to the
largnefs of the Work.
Theſe are Set with the Whet-ftone as the Gouges
are, only they often turn the Gouges upon the
round fide, becauſe they would ſmoothen all the
hollow edge; but thefe are laid flat upon the
Reft, and with a flat Whet-ftone rubbed on the
Bafil, as the Gouge was with the Round.
The
§ IV. Of Hooks.
He Hook is marked D in Plate 15. As the
Gouge is uſed when the Work lyes before
the Workman, viz. parallel to its Axis, and cuts
right forwards, fo the Hook is ufed when the
Work ftands on the right or left fide the Work-
man, as the flat fides of Boards to be Turned do;
and therefore this Work may be faid to lye ath-
wart its Axis. And the Hook is made fo as to
cut on the right or left fide a Board, and to
take off the extuberances from the plain of the
Board. But though this Tool does the Office
of a Gouge, yet it is more difficult for a Work-
man to uſe than a Gouge, becauſe it is made
thinner and flenderer than a Gouge, that its edge
cutting at a greater Bearing from the Reft, may
the eafier come at the Stuff it works upon, and
the farther the edge that cuts lyes from the Reft,
the more difficult it is for a Workman to guide
it, becauſe it is then more fubject to tremble;
eſpecially fince (as aforefaid) the edge of the
Hook is and muſt be thinner than the edge of the
Gouge.
Theſe
TURNING.
187
Thefe Tools, as alfo the Gouges, and Flat-Chif
Jels, are all about ten or twelve Inches long with-
out the Handles.
The Hooks when they want fharpening cannot
be ground as the Gouges and Chiffels are; but
they muſt be firft foftned in the Fire and turn-
ed ftraight, and then brought to an edge, and
by heating again red hot turned into its form:
Then muft it be hardned and tempered as you
were taught, Numb. 3. fol. 57, 58. Yet do not
Workmen proceed thus with their Hook every
time it grows bluntiſh, but only when the edge
is either by long ufe, or bad Temper, grown fo
thick, that this following way will not help
them: For they Whet the outer edge with a
Whet-ftone as they do other Tools. But becauſe
they cannot come at the inner edge of the Hook
with a Whet-ftone, unleſs the Hook be very wide,
and the Whet-ftone very thin, they make ufe of
a piece of Temper'd Steel, as fometimes the
thin fide of a Chiffel, or the back of a Knife,
and fo with the edge of the Square, fcrape along
the hollow edge of the Hook, and force the edge
as much to the outfide of the Hook as they can.
Thus Butchers wear at their Girdles fmall round
Rods of Steel well tempered and polifht, that
they may with quick difpatch whet their Knives
upon it, by forcing the edge forwards upon the
Blade, or preffing down the Shoulder that hin-
ders the edge Entrance; for their Steels being
fo well polifht, cannot properly be faid to wear
away any part of the Shoulder that fhould hin-
der the edge from doing its Office.
!
§ V. Of
188
TURNING.
§ V. Of Grooving Hooks, and Grooving Tools.
The
He Grooving Hook is marked E in Plate 15,
and hath its Tooth of different forms, ac-
cording to the Faſhion of the Groove o be made
on the Plain of the Board; for fometime its
Tooth hath a flat Edge, fometimes a round Edge,
fometimes a point only, and fometimes two
points, or other Forms as aforefaid.
Its whole Blade is made much stronger than
the Gouge and Chiffels, and hath the fides of its
Edge more obtufe to make it the ftronger.
The Flat Tools work the Boards Flat either to
the Plain of the Board, or to a Flat Groove in the
Board.
The Round Edge cuts an half-round hollow in
the Board.
The Point cuts a fine Hollow Circle or Swage
in the Flat of the Board; and being made Tri-
angular, hath three Edges each, of which cuts
the Ridges fmooth down that the Hook left up-
on the Board.
The Two-point Grooving-Hook cuts two fine
hollow Circles or Swages on the Plain of the
Board.
The Grooving-Hooks do not work as the Hooks
do, for the Hooks cut the Wood; but thefe do
but indeed fcrape off the Extuberancies, or fret
into the Wood, and therefore they are very fel-
dom uſed to ſoft Wood, becauſe its being loofe,
will not endure fcraping without leaving a
roughnefs upon the Work; but hard Wood, or
Ivory (for the Reafon converted) will.
1
I VI. Of
TURNING.
189
§
M
VI. Of Mandrels. And ¶ 1. Of Flat Mandrels.
Andrels are marked F1. F2. F 3. F 4. in
Plate 15. There are different forts of Man-
drels, and the fizes of them alfo different, accor-
ding to the fizes of the Work.
1. Broad Flat Mandrels marked F 1. in Plate
15. with three or more little Iron Pegs, or Points
near the Verge of its Flat: And theſe are uſed
for the Turning Flat Boards upon. For the back-
fide of a Board placed Flat upon it, will when
Tcrewed up tight between the Pikes, by help of
the Irong Pegs, remain in its place and pofition,
whilft the Flat fide of the Work is working
upon.
Behind the Backfide of this Mandrel (and in-
deed all other Mandrels) is fitted a long Shank,
or Rowler, for the String to be wound about
while the Work is Turning. This Rowler muft
be fo large in Diameter, that the String wound
about it may command the Work about. If
the Work be large and heavy, the Rowler muft
be bigger than if the Work be light; for elfe the
String will not command it about: But if the
Diameter of the Rowler be fmaller, the work
comes fo much fwifter about. The Rowler muſt
alſo be ſo long between its Shoulders, that it may
conveniently contain fo many Diameters of the
String as fhall be neceffary to wind about it.
This whole Mandrel is marked F 1. in Plate
15. a. The Round Flat, or Face, of the Mandrel,
b. The Rowler. cc The Shoulders of the Rowler.
ddd The Pegs.
2. Of Pin-Mandrels.
2. MAndrels are made with a long Wooden
Shank, to fit ftiff into a round hole that
is made in the Work that is to be Turned. This
Mandrel
·190
TURNING.
Mandrel is called a Shank, or Pin-Mandrel, and
is marked F 2. in Plate 15. And if the hole
the Shank is to fit into be very finall, and the
Work to be faſtned on it pretty heavy, then
Turners faſten a round Iron Shank, or Pin, of
the fize of the Hole it is to be fitted in-
to, and faſten their Work upon it. Theſe
Mandrels with Iron Shanks are ufed by Turnners
that Turn Bobbins, or fuch like Work: Becauſe
a Wooden Shank to fit the finall Hole though the
work would not be ftrong enough to carry the
work about.
3. Of Hollow-Mandrels.
3. "Here is another fort of Mandrels called Hol
low Mandrels, defcribed F 3. Plate 15. It
is both a Hollow-Mandrel, and alfo ufed to Turn
hollow Work in it. This Mandrel hath but one
Center-hole belonging to it, viz. at the Rowler
end or Neck, but it hath a Shank, which fup-
plies the Office of another Center-hole, a the
hollow, b the Shank, or Neck. The Hollow is
made fo wide, that the Work intended to be
Turned hollow in it may fit very ſtiff into it, and
fo deep that it may contain the intended Work.
When it is uſed, it is pitcht upon the Center
at the farther end of the Rowler, and hath its
Shank put into one of the Holes of the Joint-
Coller defcribed in Plate 13. fig. G. that will beſt
fit it; which Hole ftanding directly againſt the
Pike in the hinder Puppet, and receiving the
Shank into it, guides the Mandrel about, as if it
were pitcht upon two Centers: And the Work
being forced ftiff into the Hollow of this Man-
drel, will be carried about with it, expofing the
Fore-fide of the work bare and free from the
Foynt-Coller, and not impeded by Spikes from
coming at the work; fo that with the Hook,
Grooving
TURNING.
191
Grooving-Hook, Gouge, or Flat-Chiffel, accord-
ing as your work requires, you may come at it
to Turn your intended Form.
Hollow Mandrels are alfo ufed in Collers that
open not with a Joynt ; but then the Spindle is
made of Iron, and hath a Screw juft at its end,
upon which is fcrewed a Block with an hollow,
in it, made fit to receive the work ftiff into it.
4. Of the Screw-Mandrel.
4. A Nother fort of Mandrel is called the
Screw-Mandrel, and is marked F 4. in
Plate 15. a the Rowler of the Mandrel, b. the
Shank, or Screw, is made of Iron, having its
two ends Round, and in the middle between the
Round ends a Square the length of the Rowler,
and this Square is fitted ftiff into a Square-hole
made through the middle of the Rowler that it
turn not about in the Square-hole. In each Flat-
end of this Iron Shank, or Spindle, is made a
Center-hole, wherein the Pikes of the Puppets are
pitcht when this Mandrel is ufed. This Iron
Shank, or Axis, muſt be made very ftraight, and
ought to be turned upon the two Center-holes
for exactnefs; becaufe on one of the round ends,
or fometimes on both, a Screw, or indeed feve-
ral Screws of feveral Diameters is made. That
Screw next the end of the Shank is the ſmalleſt.
viz. about three quarters of an Inch over, and
takes up in length towards the middle of the
Shank, about an Inch, or an Inch and an half;
and fo far from the end of the Shank it is of
an equal Diameter all the way; and on this por-
tion of the Shank is made a Male-fcrew of the
fineft Thread. The next Inch and half (wrought
as before) hath another Male-fcrew; but about
half a quarter of an Inch more in Diameter than
the former, and hath its Threads courfer. Ano-
ther
$92
TURNING.
ther Inch and half hath its Diameter ftill grea
ter, and its Threads yet courfer. And thus
you
may make the Shank as long as you will, that
you may have the more variety of fizes for
Screws.
Theſe forts of Mandrels are made for the ma-
king of Screws to Boxes, and their Lids, as fhall
be fhewed in the next Paragraph.
Of Sockets, or Chocks, belonging to the
Screw-Mandrel.
To this Screw-Mandrel belongs fo many Sockets
as there are ſeveral fizes of Screws on the
Shank. They are marked F5. in Plate 15. a
the Socket or Chock: bb, the Wooden Pin, c the
Stay, d d the Notch to flip over the Male-ſcrew.
Theſe Hollow Sockets have Female-Screws in
them, made before the Notch to flip over the
Male-ſcrew of the Screw-Mandrel is cut. The
manner of making Female-fcrews is taught Numb.
2. fol. 29, 30, 31. only inſtead of a Ťap ( uſed.
there) you uſe the feveral and different fizes of
Screws made on the Screws-Mandrel to do the
Office of a Tap into each refpective Socket;
which Sockets being only made of hard Wood,
it will eafily perform, though the Shank, or
Axis be but Iron.
Therefore (as aforefaid) to each of the Male-
Screws on the Screw-Mandrel is fitted fuch a
Socket, that you may chufe a Thread Courfer or
Finer as you pleafe; but this Female-fcrew is
open, or hath a Notch on one fide of it, that it
may flip over the Male-fcrew, and the Threads
of each other fit into each others Grooves; and
when they are thus fitted to one another, the
further or open fide of the Male-fcrew is gaged
in, or pin'd on the Female-fcrew with a wooden
Pin thruft through two oppofite Holes, made
for
TURNING.
193
for that purpoſe in the Cheeks of the wooden
Sockets, that it ſhake not.
When the Treddle comes down in working,
and the Socket is fitted on its proper Screw, and
pinn'd ftiff upon it, and the Stay held down to
the Reft of the Lathe, then will the Socket, and
confequently the Stay flide farwards upon the
Male-fcrews; fo that a Tool held fteddy on any
part of the Stay, and applied to the out or in-
fide of your Work, that Tools point will de-
fcribe and cut a Screw, whofe Thread fhall be
of the fame finenefs that the Screw and the
Shank is of.
§ VII. Of Collers.
THere are feveral fafhion'd Collers; As the
Foynt-Coller marked G, the Round-Coller mar-
ked H, and the Coller marked I, in Plate 13.
The Foynt-Coller is made of two Iron Cheeks
marked bb, which moving upon a Joint c at
the Bottom, may be fet clofe together, or elſe
opened as the two infides of the Joynt-Rule Car-
penters ufe to do. On the inner Edge of each
Cheek is formed as many half-round holes or
Semi-circles as you pleafe, or the length of the
Cheeks will conveniently admit: Thefe Semicir-
cles are made of different Diameters, that they
may fit the Shanks or Necks, of different fiz'd
Mandrels: And theſe Semi-circles muſt be made
fo exactly againſt each other on the edges of the
Cheeks, that when the two Cheeks moving upon
their Foynt are clapt clofe together, the Semi-
circles on both the Cheeks fhall become a per-
fect round hole, or circumference.
Near the top of one of thefe Cheeks is faftned
with a Center-pin, a fquare Iron Coller marked
d, with a fmall Handle to it marked e. This
fquare Coller is made to contain the breadth of
O
both
194
TURNING.
both the Cheeks when they are ſhut together,
and to hold them fo faft together, that they
fhall not ſtart affunder; and yet is made fo fit,
that it may flip off and on both the Cheeks.
This Foynt-Coller may ferve to do the Office of
the other two Collers, and its one particular Of
fice too: Yet to fave the Charge of the price of
this Tool, Turners feldom uſe them, but make
ſhift with either of the other, or ſometimes with
a hole made in a Board only: But its particular
Office is to hold a Mandrel, whofe Neck is fit-
ted to one of its Holes, and the work they are
to Turn is required to ftand out free from the
outer Flat of the Cheeks of the Coller, the better
to come at it with the Tool; fuch as are deep
Boxes, or deep Cups, &c.
MECHA-
195
MECHANICK EXERCISES:
OR,
The Doctrine of Handy-Works.
Applied to the ART of TURNING.
T
§ VIII. Of the Mawl.
HE Mawl is marked K in Plate 13. The
Figure of it there is Defcription fuffi-
cient: Its Office is to knock and un
knock the Wedge in the Puppets, and to knock
upon the back of the Cleaving Knife, when they
Iplit their Wood for their Work. The Joyner's
Mallet would fupply the Office of this Tool,
but ufe has made the Mawl more handy for
them: Befides when one is batter'd to fhivers,
they can quickly, of a Chump of Wood, ac
commodate themſelves with another.
SIX. Of the Hatchet, Draw-knife and
Cleaving-knife.
He Hatchet is marked L in Plate 4. It is of
the fame fort that Joyners ufe, which I
defcribed Numb. 5. § 25. and therefore refer you
thither. And the Draw-knife is deſcribed in
Numb. 7. 5. Plate 8. marked E. The Cleaving-
knife marked M in Plate 13. needs no other De-
fcription than that Figure.
$ 10. of
Q 2
196
TURNING.
He
X. Of the Chopping-Block.
The Chopping-Block is marked N in Plate 13.
It is made of a piece of Elm-Tree placed
with its Grain upwards and downwards as it
grew. It hath three Leges in it, that ftand
ftradling out from the underfide of the Block to
the Floor, and of fuch an height, as the Work-
man may have moft Command of the Work.
See the Figure. Sometimes Turnners uſe inſtead
of it, a piece of the Trunk of a Tree, of about
a Foot and an half, or two Foot, in length from
the Ground, or more or leſs.
§ XI. Of the Callippers.
THe Callippers is marked O in Plate 13. As
common Compaffes (defcribed Numb. 6.
32.) are for meaſuring Diſtances upon a plain
Superficies; fo Callippers meafure the diſtance of
any round Cilindrick Conical Body, either in
their Extremity, or any part lefs than the Ex-
tream: So that when Workmen uſe them, they
open the two points a a to their defcribed width,
and Turn ſo much ſtuff off the intended place,
till the two points of the Callippers fit juft over
their Work, fo fhall their Work have juft the
Diameter in that place, as is the diſtance be-
tween the two points of the Callippers, be it
either Feet or Inches, &'c.
TH
§ XII. Of the Drill-Bench.
Here is yet another Tool, or rather a Machine
uſed by fome Turnners, called a Drill-Bench.
It is defcribed in Plate 14. aa aa a thick Board,
about three Inches thick, five Inches broad, and
eighteen Inches long, bb two Stiles placed to-
wards either end, and faftned upright. In the
hithermoft Stile is a Coller deſcribed § 7. and
Plate
TURNING.
197
Plate 13. H. or any of the other Collers: And
in the further Stile is fitted a fquare flat tempe-
red piece of Steel having a Center-hole in the
middle of it, and is placed juſt againſt the Cen-
ter or middle point of the Hole of the Coller,
cc the Rowler, whofe hither end is Turned away,
fo as it juſt fit into the Coller, and at the further
end of it, it hath a temper'd Steel Pin, to be
placed in the Center-hole: And in the middle of
the hither end of it, it hath a Piercer-Bit faltneḍ
ftraight in, fo that it lie in a true ftraight Line,
with the Axis of the Rowler. Of thefe Rowlers
they have ſeveral, and Bits of different fizes fit-
ted into them, that upon all occaſions they may
chufe one to fit their purpoſe.
On the under-fide, about the middle of the
Bench, is fitted and faftned athwart it a ſquare
Iron Coller, deep enough to reach through the
Cheeks of the Lathe, and fo much deeper as it
may receive a Wooden Wedge, fuch a one as be-
longs to one of the Puppets: And by the force
and ſtrength of the Wedge, the whole Drill-bench
is drawn down and faftned athwart the Cheeks of
the Lathe.
When it is uſed, it ſtands athwart the Cheeks
of the Lathe (as aforefaid) with the point or
end of the Bit towards you; and then the String
being turned twice or thrice about the Rowler,
will (with Treading on the Treddle) turn the
Rowler and its Bit forcibly about, and caufe it
to enter ſwiftly into a piece of Wood that fhall
be preft forwards upon the Bit.
When they uſe it, they hold the piece of
Wood they intend to Drill, or Pierce, faft in
both their Hands, right before them, and prefs
it forwards upon the Piercer-Bit; fo that by its
running about, it cuts a ftraight round hole into
the Wood, of what length they pleaſe.
0 3
L
But
5
TURNING.
198
part of
But while the Pole is rifing after every Tread,
they prefs not againſt the Piercer-Bit, fo that it
is dif-ingaged from doing its Office in the Wood
but in that while, they nimbly give the Wood
a turn in their hands, of about one third
its Circumference; which makes the Bit
very fuc-
ceffive Tread, go the ftraighter through the mid-
dle of the Wood: And thus they reiterate Treads,
and keep the Wood turning in their Hands, till
the Bit is enter'd deep enough.
Thus much of the Tools ufed in common Turn-
ning: I fhall proceed to the Working a Pattern
or two in foft Wood; which being well under-
ftood, may render a Practicer capable of moft
common Work.
§ XIII. Of Turning a Cilinder in foft Wood.
He foft Wood Turners Ufe is commonly ei-
ther Maple, Alder, Birch, Beech, Elm, Oak,
Fir, &c. and for fome particular purpoſes each
of theſe forts are beft. ...
The firft Pattern we purpoſe fhall be a Cilin-
der two Inches over, and eight Inches long:
Therefore you muft chufe a piece of Wood at
left two Inches and a quarter over, left you want
Stuff to work upon: Nay, if your Stuff prove
fhaken, or otherwife unfound, or your Center
be not very exactly pitcht, you may want yet
more. Stuff; and that according as it proves
more or less faulty, or as the Centers are more
unequally pitcht. But fuppofing the Stuff good,
you may take a piece of two Inches and a quar-
ter over, as I faid before, and about ten or ele-
ven Inches long. For though the length of the
Cilinder be but eight Inches, yet you muſt cut
your Stuff long enough to make a Groove at
one end of it befides, for the String to run in.
If your Stuff be fomewhat too big for your
Scantlin,
•
Plate 15.
Page.198.
1
B
B
D
B
E
E
E
E
שחחח
פן
TURNING.
199
Scantlin, and not round enough to go into the
Lathe, you muſt Hew it pretty near with the
Hatchet to make it fizable, and afterwards
fmoothen it nearer with a Draw-knife, as you
were taught, Numb. 7. § 5.
But if you have not Stuff at hand near your
fize, then you muft Saw off your length from a
Billet, or fome other piece of Stuff, and with the
Cleaving-knife and the Mawl, fplit it into a ſquare
piece near the fize, and with the Draw-knife
round off the Edges to make it fit for the
Lathe.
Then fet your Puppets, and wedge them right
up, fo as the Points of your Spikes ftand pretty
near the length of your Work affunder, and
move the Pole, fo as the end of it may hang_o-
ver between the Pikes, and alfo fit the Iron Pin
in the Treddle into a proper Hole in the Crofs-
Treddle, fo as the end of the Treddle may draw
the String below the Work into pretty near a
ftraight Line with the ftring above the Work:
And take the Work in your Right Hand, and
put it beyond the String before you, and with
your Left Hand wind the String below the Work,
but once about the Work, left it ſhould be too
ftrong for your fhallow Centers, as you fhall
underſtand by and by, and then with a pretty
ftrength prefs the middle of one end of your
Work over the Point of one of the Pikes, and ſo
make a hole in your Work for one of the Cen-
ter holes: Then ſcrew your Pike wider or clofer,
according as the length of your Work requires,
and pitch the other end of your Work upon the
other Pike alfo, and fcrew your Work a little
lightly up: Then try how the Centers are pitcht,
by Treading the Treddle lightly down; and if
you find the Centers are well pitcht, you may
without more ado fcrew up your Work tight:
up a
Bu
200
TURNING.
1
But if your Centers, or either of them be not
well pitcht, you muſt alter them. You may
know when they are well pitcht, by treading
foftly upon your Treddle, and holding your Fin-
ger fteddy on the Reft, direct the point of it
pretty cloſe to the Work: For if in a Revolu-
tion of your Work, its Out-fide keeps it an equal
diſtance from the end of your Finger, you may
conclude your Work is well pitcht. But if you
find one fide of your Work comes nearer your
Finger than the other fide, you muſt with your
Flat Chiffel, or Gouge, (or what is neareſt at hand)
knock foftly, or hard, upon that fide that comes
neareft to your Finger, till you have forc'd the
Pikes into the true Centers at the end of your
Work; and then you may boldly fcrew it hard
up: But you muſt be fure to fcrew it hard up;
becauſe it is foft Wood you purpoſe to work
on, and the ftrength of the Pole may endanger
the drawing or removing the Centers, in the Pikes
have not good hold of them.
•
up-
Having found your Centers, take your Work
again off the Pikes, and wind the String once or
twice more about your Work, that your String
(as I faid in Numb. 10. § 1. when I wrote of the
String) may the better command it, and then
wind off or no more String at the end of your
Pole, or end of your Treddle, or both, if your
Work require it, till the Pole draws the Treddle
up a little above half the length of the Legs of
the Lathe. For about the height your Leg may
without fudden trying, command the Pole down
again.
But before you begin to work upon the Stuff,
I fhall inform you how to Tread the Treddle, in
which you may obferve this General Rule; That
the nearer the Fore-end of the Treddle you Tread,
the eafter you bring down the Pole; but then
the
TURNING.
201
the Pole in its Spring rafes your Leg the higher,
and may draw the upper fide of the your Thigh
againſt the underfide of the Cheek of the Lathe,
and with reiterated Rifings Gawl, and alfo tire
your Thigh.
Place therefore your Foot fteddy upon the
Treddle, fo far forward as you can, to avoid the
Poles rifing from drawing your Thigh againſt the
underfide of the Lathe; and Tread the Treadle
nimbly down, but not quite fo low as to knock
againſt the Floor: Then abate the weight of your
Tread, and let the Pole draw the Treddle up, but
ſtill keep your Foot ſteddy, and lightly Bearing
upon the Treddle: For then your fucceeding
Treads will prove eafier to your Leg and Thigh,
and you will with your Foot the better and
quicker command the Treddle. Then Tread a-
gain nimbly down as before, and keep this train
of Treading till your Work be finiſh'd, or that
you may have occafion to ftop and exaime how
rightly you proceed.
In all fmall Work the Tread is lightly and
nimbly performed; but in large and heavy work
the Tread comes flow and heavily down.
This being premiſed, you may begin with your
Gouge; lay the round fide of it upon the Reft,
and take the Handle of it in your Right Hand,
and lay the Fore and Middle Fingers of your
Left Hand upon the Hollow of the Gouge near
the Work, mounting the Edge about a quarter
of an Inch above the Axis of your Work, and
finking your Right Hand a little; for in this
pofition the Gouge cuts beft: And thus cut down
on your Work near one end, a Groove for your
String to run in: The Groove may be about an
Inch, or an Inch and an half long; but it mat-
ters not much what depth. Then flip your
String into the Groove, and if you find the String
will
202
TURNING.
will not flip eafily, you may put your Foot un-
der the Treddle and lift it a little up, that the
String when no weight is hanged to it, may flide
the eaſier into the Groove.
And by the way you may take notice, that
the deeper you cut down the Groove, the oftner
will your Work come about every Tread, be-
cauſe the String that comes down every Tread,
meaſure a finall Circumference oftener than it
does a greater Circumference: But then the work
is not fo ftrongly carried about; becauſe it hath
a lefs portion of the String to command it. This
I hint, not that in this our fmall propofed Pat-
tern it is very confiderable: For if you only cut
the Groove down but fo low as there may be a
Shoulder at the end, and another againſt the
Work, to keep the String from flipping out of
the Groove, it will be fufficient: But in heavy
Work this Groove ought to be cut with dif
cretion.
Now come to the Forming of your Work,
and hold your Gouge, as you were taught before,
but fomewhat lightly againſt your Work, begin-
ning at one end, and fliding your Gouge gradu-
ally to the other, cutting with its Edge all the
way you go, and bearing fomewhat ſtiff againſt
the Work every Tread you make on the Treddle:
And withdrawing it again a little lightly from
the work every Spring of the Pole. And thus by
Ufe you muft habituate your felf to let the edge
of your Tool bear upon the Work when the Pole
and Treddle comes down, and to draw it back
juft off the Work, as the Pole and Treddle goes
up. And thus you muſt continue till you have
rough-wrought all your work from end to end.
If you have not at firſt brought your Work
clean; that is, if you have not gone deep e-
nough with your Gouge to take off all the Ri-
fings
TURNING.
203
fings of the Stuff the Draw-knife left, even with
the fmalleft part of your Work, you muſt in
like manner (as before) work it over again. But
you muſt have a fpecial Care you take not too
much Stuff away on any part of the whole
Work: For this propofed Pattern being a Cilin-
der, if you take but a ſmall matter to much a-
way from any part, and make it fmaller than
your given meaſure there, the whole Work will
be fpoiled, as being finaller than the propofed
Diameter; which to know, you may by open-
ing the Points of your Callippers to two Inches
on your Rule (the propofed Diameter of your
Cilinder) try if the Points at that diſtance will
juft flip over the deepeft Grooves of your Work
(for we will not fuppofe that the Grooves are
of an equal depth with the Rough-working of
the Gouge) without ftraining the Joint, for then
your Work is juft fizeable: If not, work over
again as before, &c. But we will now fuppofe
you have not taken too much away, but have
made a due proceſs with your Gouge. Therefore
now proceed, and ufe a Flat Chiffel, about an
Inch and an half broad, to take off the Irregu-
larities the Gouge left.
1
Take the Handle of it in your Right Hand, as
you did the Gouge, and clafpfing the Blade of it
in your Left Hand, lean it fteddy upon the Reft,
holding the Edge a little aflant over the Work,
fo as a Corner of the thin fide of the Chiffel may
bear upon the Reft, and that the Flat fide of the
Chiffel may make a fmall Angle with the Reft,
and confequently with the Work; (which is pa-
rallel to the Reft) for fhould you fet the edge of
the Chiffel parallel to the Work, it might run too
Faft into the Work, and dawk it. Therefore you
muft fet the Chiffel in fuch a pofition, that the
lower, Corner, or near the lower Corner of the
edge,
204
TURNING.
edge, may cut lightly upon the Work: But this
pofition is beſt deſcribed by a Figure, which to
that purpoſe I have inferted in Plate 14. at 0,
where you may perceive in, or near, what pof-
tion the Chiffel muſt be fet to cut the Work
and how the edge of the Chiffel a b lying aflant
the Work, and the further Corner of the edge of
the Chiffel b being fomewhat mounted, as the
Work comes about, the Bottom, or near the
Bottom, of the edge of the Chiffel is only capa-
ble to cut a narrow Shaving off the Work: And
juft in this manner you muſt keep the Chiffel
fteddy bearing upon the Work, as the Pole comes
down, and withdrawing it from the Work as the
Pole Springs up (as you were taught to uſe the
Gouge) and at the fame time fliding it forwards
from one end of the Work to the other, till it be
wrought down all the way to its true Diameter
between the points of the Callippers: For then a
Straight Ruler applied to your Work, the outfide
of your purpofes Cilinder will be formed.
Only the ends muſt be cut down fquare to the
length: Therefore open the points of your Com-
paffes to the diſtance of eight Inches on your
Rule, and prick that diſtance hard off upon your
Work, that the points of your Compaffes may
leave viſible marks, by placing one point as near
one end as you can, to leave Stuff enough to cut
ftraight down all the way; that is, to cut it
fquare down at right Angles with the outfide of
the Work. Which to do, you muſt hold the
Handle of the Flat Chiffel in your Right Hand
(as before) and clafp the Blade of it in your
Left, and lay one of the thin fides of it upon the
Reft, fo that the edge may ftand upright, or ve-
ry near upright againſt the Work. Then fink
your Right Hand fomewhat below the Level of
the Reft, that the lower Corner of the edge of
the
TURNING.
205
the Chiffel may mount, and being thruſt fteddy
againſt the Work, juft in the mark one Point of
the Compaffes made, Tread the Treddle, and cut
a pretty deep Circle into the Stuff. But you
muſt have a care you do not direct the cutting
Corner of the Chiffel inwards, but rather out-
wards, left you make the end hollow inftead of
Flat: For if you do take off too little at firft,
you may by degrees cut it down to a Flat after-
wards. As you cut deeper into the Stuff, you
muft turn the Flat of the Chiffel, and with it cut
down the Shoulder juft at the end on the out-
fide the mark, for elſe that may hinder the Cor-
ner of the edge of the Chiffel for coming at the
Work.
Note, That if you hold not the edge of the
Chiffel truly before the Work, but direct it in-
wards, and if you hold it not very fteddy, and
have a good guidance of it, the quick coming
about of the Work, may draw the edge of the
Chiffel into it inwards and run a dawk on Cilin-
der, like the Grooves of a Screw, and fo fpoil
your Work: For being once wrought to the true
fize, you cannot afterwards take any more off to
cleanfe it, &c.
The other end muſt be cut down as this.
§ 14. Of
206
TURNING
IF
§ 14. Of Turning Flat Boards.
F your Board be thick enough, you may boar
a round Hole in the middle of it; and turn
a Mandrel with a Pin a very little Tapering, to
fit hard and ſtiff into the round Hole: And if
the Hole and Pin be proportionable in fize to the
weight of the Board, the Pin will carry it about.
But you muſt be very careful the Hole be board-
ed exactly ſtraight through the middle, and not
inclining on either fide the Board, more to any
part of the Verge than to another; but that the
middle of the Hole be exactly the Center of the
Board the whole thickneſs through. This Pin-
Mandrel is defcribed Numb. 11. § 6. and Plate
13.
If your Board be not thick enough to be faft-
ned upon a Pin-Mandrel, or that your Work will
not admit of an Hole to be bored through the
middle of it, you may uſe the Flat-Mandrel de-
fcribed Plate 13. F 2. And then you muſt with
your Compaſſes find the Center on the backfide of
the Round Board (with feveral proffers if need
require) till you have found it, and prick there
an Hole for a mark: Then open the points of
your Compaffes to about the thicknefs of a Shil-
ling wider than the Semidiameter of the Flat-
Mandrel; and with the points of your Compaffes
at that diſtance defcribe a Circle on the back-
fide of the Board to be turned, by placing one
Foot in the prick-mark,and turning about the other
Foot. By this Circle you may pitch the Center of
the Board exactly upon the Center of the Flat-
Mandrel: For the points of the Compaffes being
opened about the thickneſs of a Shilling wider
than the Semidiameter of the Flat-Mandrel: will
ben
1
TURNIN G.
207
(when you have pitcht the Center of the Board
on the Center of the Mandrel) place the outer
Verge of the Mandrel the thickneſs of a Shil-
ing round about within the Circle deſcribed on
he the backfide of the Board: And when it is
hus pitcht, you may, by laying the Board flat
lown, knock upon the Rowler end of the Man-
rel, and drive the Pegs in the flat of the Man-
rel into the Board, and fo hold it fteddy upon
he Mandrel: Then find the Center on the Fore-
ide of the Board alfo, as you were taught to
ind the Center on the backfide, and put your
Board and Mandrel upon the Pikes of the Pup-
ets, and ſcrew them hard up, as you have been
aught before.
Sometimes Turners ufe this Flat-Mandrel with-
out Pegs, and then they chalk the Flat fide of it
very well, and clap the backfide of the Board to
it, which will (if the Board to be Turned be
not too heavy, but be well fcrewed up between
the Pikes) keep the Board fteddy from flipping
from its fet-pofition, till you work it.
If in going about of your Work you find it
Wabble, that is, that one fide of the Flat incline
either to the Right or Left Hand, you muſt with
foft Blows of an Hammer, or other Tool at
hand, fet it to right, and then again fcrew it
hard up: For fo often as you thus ftrike upon
the Verge to fet the Board true, you force the
Steel point of the Pike more or lefs (according
to the foftnefs of the Wood) towards that fide
of the Verge you ftrike upon; and therefore you
may perceive a reafon for ſcrewing up the Pike
ſo oft as you knock upon the outer Verge of the
Board.
But we will now fuppofe the Board well pitcht
and faftned on the Mandrel and Center; there-
fore take the Side-Reft defcribed in § 1. Numb.
10.9
208
TURNING.
10.
7. and Plate 83. at the Figure e, and fg,
and fit it fo into the Lathe, as the upper edge of
it may ſtand range, or parallel to the fide of the
Board you are to work upon, and fo wedge it
hard up.
Now you must come to uſe the Hook, de-
fcribed Numb. 12. 5. and Plate 15. For this
Tool is moſt commodious to ferve you inftead
of the Gouge, when the Work ftands athwart the
Pikes becauſe the end of the Blade of this
Tool being on its Flat fide turned into a Circu-
lar Figure, and that Circular Figure turned a
little backwards, one of the Edges of this Cir-
cular Figure will conveniently (though the
Tool be not held ftraight before the Work)
come at any part of the Flat of the Board, and
To by the Circulation of the Board againſt the
Edge of the Hook, cut off its irregular Extube-
rances.
In the ufing of this Tool, you muſt place the
end of the Handle under your Arm-pit, and hold
your Left Hand on the upper fide of the Blade
of the Tool clofe to the Reft, and your Right
Hand cloſe befides your Left Hand under the
Tool, and with both your hands clafp the Tool
hard, and prefs it fteddy upon the Reft, and at
the fame time hold it alfo fteddy, and yet light-
ly bearing againſt the Work, that by the ſwift
coming about of the Work it draw not the Edge
of the thin and tender Blade of the Hook into
it.
You muſt not hold the Blade of this Tool per-
pendicularly before the Work, viz. parallel to
the Pikes, but aflant, fo as fomewhat above the
middle of the Convex of the Hook may touch
againſt the Work. You may begin at the Verge,
and fo lay feveral Grooves clofe by one another
till
こ
​TURNING.
209
till you come to the Center: But you muft ob
ferve (as was faid before in the Cilinder) that
you lay all your Grooves of an equal depth into
the Board: For if you lay one deeper than the
reft, and an Hollow may not properly be in that
place, you muſt again go over your work with
your Hook, to work that dawk out: And then
perhaps your Board may be made too thin for
its intended purpoſe. But this Craft of the
Hand must be acquired with fome continued
Uſe and Practice, which will better inform your
Judgment what Errours you may be fubject to
commit, than many words (though fignificant)
upon this Doctrine. And this I'm fure I found,
when I firſt practifed upon Turning.
Having thus with the Hook rough-plain'd the
Board (for this Hook does in Turning the Office
of a Fore-plain in Joynery) you muſt uſe the Tri-
angular Grooving Tool, defcribed in Turning § 5.
Plate 15. and with one of its Edges fmoothen
down the ridges the Hook left on the Board.
But if your Work require any Molding near
the Verge, or any other part of it, you muſt
work that Molding as near as you can with the
Hook, eſpecially where Hollows are required;
for that cuts fafter and fmoother than any other
Tool, and moft artificially forms an Hollow.
If a Flat be to be laid in the Board, you muſt
firft ufe the Triangular Point Tool, and with it
ftrike ſo many Threds as the breadth of the Flat
requires, and lay each Thred almoſt fo deep
into the Board as you intend the Flat fhall be:
And afterwards to ſmoothen it down, you muft
ufe the Flat Grooving Tool, or a Flat Chiffel,
and with either of them finish the Flat to its
intended Depth and Breadth. And where a
fine Thred, of Circle, is to be laid in the Board,
P
you
210
TURNING.
/
you muſt uſe the Triangular Point Tool. And
thus as you fee occafion, you must accommo-
date your felf with a Tool apt and proper for
your purpoſe, viz. fuch a Tool as will moft
conveniently come at, and from the intended
Work.
(
i
MECHA-
Page.211
Plate
1ty.
C
9
V
1
MECHANICK EXERCISES:
O R,
The Doctrine of Handy-Werks.
Applied to the ART of TURNING.
I
§ XV. Of Turning Hard Wood, and Ivory.
F the Wood be very hard, as Ebony, Lignum
Vita; or if it be Ivory, Bone, or Horn they
are to Turn; they neither ufe the fame
Tools they do for foft Wood; becauſe
their edge is to tender: Nor do they ufe their
other Tools as they do foft Wood. For the
Tools made for Hard Wood are made with a
ftronger Point, Edge, &'c. than they are for foft,
as was faid in Turning § 5. And they uſe them
differently, becaufe for Turning Soft Wood,
they hold the Edge of the Gouge and Flat Chif
fel, at fome confiderable Diſtance from the Reft,
mounting the Edge at fuch an Angle as will beft
cut off from the Work, as a great Chip as they
can, or defire. And as they Turn the Work
fmaller, they guide the Chiffel to follow the
Work: But for Hard Wood, they raiſe the Reſt
near the Horizontal Plain of the Axis of the
Work, fetting it as clofe as conveniently they
can to their Work, and lay their Tool flat and
P 2
fteddy
211
212
TURNING.
fteddy upon the Reft; which being hard held in
this pofition, does by the comming about of
the Work, cut or tear off all the Extuberances
the Tool touches in the ſweep of the Work. So
that (as I faid before) as in Turning foft Wood
the Tool does fomewhat follow the Work; in
Turning hard Wood the Work comes to the Tool:
And therefore you may perceive a great reafon
they have to keep the Tool fteddy: For fhould
it in one ſweep of the Work be thruft nearer
the Axis in any place, it would there take off
more than it ſhould.
Having prepared the Work fit for the
Lathe, either with Hewing, or as fome Hard
Woods and Ivory may require, with Rafping,
they pitch it between the Pikes, as before has
been fhewn, or fuch Work as it may be, as
Boxes, and generally all Hollow Work, they fit
into Collers, either by fcrewing the Mandrel on an
Iron Axis; or fitting it with ſome other of the
Mandrels defcribed in Turning § 6. as is proper
for it: As fometimes they fit the Work tight in-
to an Hollow Mandrel, and the tight fitting in
holds it whilſt it is working upon: And fome-
times, if the Work be very thin, they fix it on
a Flat Mandrel with Cement; But they are al,
ways either to chufe one of the Mandrels defcri-
bed already in Turning 6. or elfe contrive
(as they often do) fome other Mandrel conve-
nient to the opportunity that accidentally their
Bufinefs may require. For the Work (whether
it be pitcht on the Pikes, or fitted into Hollow
Mandrels, or otherwife) muft run very fteddy
and tight.
But having thus fitted it into the Lathe, they
begin to work with the Sharp-pointed Grooving
Tool, or elfe with the Triangular Grooming Tool,
and
Page 212
Plate 16.
I
A
Bi
B2 B3
S
C
G
4
ין
"
D
TURNING.
21-3
and with the point of either of thefe Tools break
the Grain of the Wood, by laying ſmall Grooves
upon its Surface, till they have pretty well
wrought away Extuberances, and brought the
Work tollerably near an intended ſhape, by
ftreightning, hollowing, and leaving Rifings in
their feveral proper places.
Afterwards with edg'd Grooving Tools of a pro-
per Breadth, they cut down and fmoothen away
the Extuberances left by the Sharp-pointed Groo-
ving Tool, or the Triangular Grooving Tool, and
bring the Work into a perfect fhape. Which
done, they ſmoothen the work with the Edge of
a piece of a Blade of a broken Knife, bafil'd a-
way, by following the Work with it: That is,
holding the bafil'd Edge of the Knife cloſe againſt
the Work while it comes about: For then its
fharp Edge ſcrapes or fhaves off the little rough-
nefs the groffer Tools left upon the Work.
Laftly, they hold either a piece of Seal-skin
or Dutch Reeds (whofe outer Skin or Filme
fomewhat finely cuts) pretty hard againſt the
Work, and fo make it fmooth enough to polifh.
Hard Wood they poliſh with Bees-wax, viz.
by holding Bees-wax againſt it, till it have fuff-
ciently toucht it all over; and prefs it hard in-
to it by holding hard the edge of a Flat piece of
hard Wood made fizable and fuitable to the
Work they work upon, as the Work is going a-
bout. Then they fet a Glofs on it with a very
dry Woollen Rag, lightly fmear'd with Sallad
Oyl.
But Ivory they polifh with Chalk and Water,
and afterwards dry it with a Woollen Rag, and
a light touch of Sallad Oyl; which at laft they
rub off again with a dry Woollen Rag, and fo
fet a Glofs on it.
P 3
If
214
TURNING.
If there be a Screw to be made upon the thin
Edge of an Ivory, or Hard Wood, or Brass Box,
they uſe the Screw-Mandrel, and its Socket, de-
fcribed in Turning 6.4. and 5. as is fhewn at
the latter end of that Section.
§ XVI. Of Turning long and flender Work
Som
of Ivory.
Ome Turners to fhew their Dexterity in Turn-
ing, and make others that know not the way
how it is done admire their Skill, Turn long and
flender Sprigs of Ivory, as fmall as an Hay-ftalk,
and perhaps a Foot or more long: Which per-
form they cut a piece of Ivory to its intended
length, but ſtrong enough to bear working till
they bring it to as fmall a Cilinder as they can;
which being thus forwarded, they place a Joint
Coller (as is defcribed in Turning §7.) made
fmall and fit for their purpoſe, juft in the middle
of their Work: Only that their Work may Bear
at a fmaller length, and confequently be ftronger
for being thus fupported while it is Turned yet
fmaller. Then they place other Collers between
the Pikes, and the middle Coller, and Turn the
whole Cilinder flender vet. And thus by placing
Collers where ever they find the Work buckle,
they (as aforefaid) with Sharp Tools, tender
touches, fomewhat a loofe and fine String, weak
Bow, and great care and diligence work the whole
Cilinder down as fmall as they lift, either with
Moldings, or other Work upon it, as beft likes
them.
The propereft Lathe to Turn this flender Work
in, is the Turn-Bench defcribed § 18. Plate 16.
§ XVII. Of
TURNIN G.
215
6 XVII. Of the Brafiers Lathe and Turning
Tools; and their manner of using them.
BRrafiers that Turn Andirons,
that Turn Andirons, Pots, Kettles,
&c. have their Lathe made different from
the Common Turners Lathe, as you may fee in
Plate 16. at A, where the Cheeks, Puppets and
Refts, &c. are much ſtronger and the Pikes ftron-
ger and longer than thoſe the common Turners
ufe. Their Edge Tools which they call Hooks,
are alfo of a different fhape, as the Figures of
them defcribed at B1, B2, B 3. in the faid
Plate fhew, as being bent backwards and forwards
towards the cutting end, fomewhat like an z.
And as the common Turners work with a round
String made of Gut, as hath been defcribed
in Turning § 1. 14. The Brafiers work with a
Flat Leather Thong, which wrapping clofe and
tight about the Rowler of their Mandrel, com-
mands it the eaſier and more forciably about.
Their Thong runs between the Cheeks of the
Lathe.
The whole Lathe, and its parts, are made fo
ftrong, becauſe the Matter they Turn being Met-
tal, is much heavier than Wood, and confe-
quently with forciable coming about, would (if
the Lathe were flight) make it tremble, and fo
ſpoil the Work; as hath been faid before.
The reaſon why the Hook is fo turned back-
wards, and again forwards, towards the end, is,
that they may the better direct the Edge of it as
much below the Horizontal Plain of the Pikes as
they lift, the better (in many cafes) to come at
the Work: For contrary to Soft Wood, Hard
Wood and Ivory Turners, they always dip the
end of their Hook below the Reft, that fo the
Hook refting very fteddy upon the Reft, and alfo
againſt one of the Iron Pins ftanding upright in
P 4
the
216
TURNING.
the Reft, and held very fteddy forwards to the
Work, the ſtrong coming about of the Work a-
gainſt the ſtrong Edge of the Hook, fcrapes off
the extuberant Mettle lying in that Sweep.
I need no further defcribe the Lathe, and other
Tools that belong to Brafiers Turning; or more
of the manner of ufing them, becauſe, by the
whole proceeding Difcourfe, theſe Arguments
are largely and fufficiently handled; efpecially
confidering I have given you the Figures of them
in Plate 16. as aforefaid.
Only, their way of Whetting their Tools being
different from the Whetting of other Turning Tools,
I fhall fay fomewhat to: For they Whet their
Hooks upon a broad Flat Slate, holding the Hook
almoft perpendicular, that the Bafil of its Edge
may comply with the Flat of the Slate; with
clafping the upper end of the Handle in their left
hand to lo lean the heavier on it, and clutching
the Shank of the Blade near the Hook-end in the
right hand, to guide it: And thus with Spittle,
or Water, rub forwards and backwards on the
Slate, till they have fharpned the Edge of the
Hook. But if it be a round end Hook they whet,
they chuſe a Groove in the Slate fit to comply with
the round edge of the Hook (for they have dif-
ferent fized Grooves in the Slate for that purpoſe)
and fo in it rub forwards and backwards as afore
faid,
§ XVIII. Of Turning Small Work of Brafs, or
other Mettle.
Mall Work in Mettal is Turned in an Iron Lathe
Small
called a Turn-bench. The Figure of it is de-
fcribed in Plate 16. at C. when they uſe it they
fcrew it in the Chaps of a Vise, and having fitted
their Work upon a fmall Iron Axis, with a Drill-
Barrel fitted upon a fquare Shank at the end of
the
TURNING.
217
the Axis next the left hand, they with a Drill-
bow and Drill-firing carry it about, as was fhewn
in Smithing fol. 6. with this difference, that when
a Hole is drill'd in a piece of Mettal, they hold
the Drill-bow in their Right Hand; but when
they Turn Small Work, they hold the Drill-bow
in their Left Hand, and with their Right Hand
ufe the Tool, which is commonly a Graver, or
fometimes a Sculpter, fit to fuch Moldings as are
to be made on the Mettal.
They begin to work firft with the ſharp point
of a Graver, laying the Blade of it firm upon the
Reft, and directing the point to the Work, and
lay Circles upon it cloſe to one another, till they
have wrought it pretty true: Then with one of
the broad Edges of the Graver they fmoothen
down what the Point left, and afterwards with
Sculpters, Round or Flat, or great or ſmall, they
work their intended Moldings.
The Circumſtances and Confiderations in the
choice of a Drill-bow and Drill-ftring for Turning,
are the fame with what you find in Smithing fol.
6, 7. for Drilling.
§ XIX. Of laying Moldings either upon Mettal, or
Wood, without fitting the Work in a Lathe.
Had, foon after the Fire of London, occafion
to lay Moldings upon the Verges of feveral
round and weighty flat pieces of Brafs: And be-
ing at that time, by reafon of the faid Fire, un-
accommodated of a Lathe of my own, I inten-
ded to put them out to be Turned: But then
Turners were all full of Employment, which made
them fo unreaſonable in their Prizes, that I was
forc'd to contrive this following way to lay Mold-
ings on their Verges.
provided a ſtrong Iron Bar for the Beam of a
Sweep: (For the whole Tool marked in Plate 16,
is
218
TURNING.
is by Mathematical Inftrument-makers called a
Sweep.) To this Tool is filed a Tooth of Steel
with fuch Roundings and Hollows in the bottom
of it, as I intended to have Hollows and Round-
ings upon my Work: For an Hollow on the
Tooth, makes a Round upon the Work; and a
Round upon the Tooth, makes an Hollow on the
Work; even as they do in the Molding-plains
Joyners ufe. Then I placed the Center-point of
the Sweep in a Center-hole made in a ſquare Stud
of Mettal, and fixed in the Center of the Plain of
the Work; and removed the Socket that rides on
the Beam of the Sweep, till the Tooth ſtood juft
upon its intended place on the Verge of the
Work, and there fcrew'd the Socket faft to the
Beam.
To work it out, I employ'd a Labourer, di-
recting him in his Left Hand to hold the Head
of the Center-pin, and with his Right Hand to
draw about the Beam and Tooth, which (accor-
ding to the ſtrength) he us'd, cut and tore a-
way great Flakes of the Mettal, till it receiv'd
the whole and perfect Form the Tooth would
make; which was as compleat a Molding as
any Skillful Turner could have laid upon it.
Having fuch good Succefs upon Brafs, I im-
prov'd the invention fo, as to make it ferve for
Wood alfo. And make a Plain-Stock with my
intended Molding on the Sole of it, and fitted an
Iron to that Stock with the fame Molding the
Sole had.
Through the fides of this Stock I fitted an Iron
Beam, to do the Office of the Beam I uſed for the
Sweep, viz. to keep the Plain always at what po-
fition I lifted from the Center (for thus the Iron
in the Plain wrought about the Center, even as
the Tooth in the Sweep (before rehearsed) and
to that purpoſe I made a round Hole of about
half
TURNING.
219
half an Inch Diameter near the end of the Iron:
Then in the Center of the Work I fixed a round
Iron Pin, exactly to fit the faid round Hole, put-
ting the round Hole over the Pin, and fitting the
Iron into the Stock commodious to work with. I
ufed this Plain with both Hands, even as Joyners
do other Plains: For the Iron Pin in the Hole of
the Beam kept it to its due diſtance from the
Center; fo that neither hand was ingaged to
guide it.
But note, The Stock of this Plain was not
ftraight (as the Stocks of other Plains are) but
by Hand cut Circular pretty near the fize of the
Diameter of the intended Molding: And yet was
made to flide upon the Beam, farther from or
nearer to the Center, as different Diameters of
Verges might require.
§ XX. To Turn feveral Globes or Balls of Ivory
within one another, with a Solid Ball in the
middle.
You
Ou muſt firſt Turn your Ivory Ball or Globe
truly round, of your intended Diameter :
Then defcribe a Circle exactly through the mid-
dle, or Equinoctial of the Globe: Divide that
Circle into four equal parts, and pitch one point
of a pair of Compaffes in one of thofe Divifi-
ons, and extend the other point to either of the
next Divifions, and defcribe with it a Circle
round about the Globe. Then remove the ftand-
ing point of the Compaffes to either of the next
Divifions in the Equinoctial, and in like manner
deſcribe another Circle round about the Globe.
But Note, That the moving point of your
Compaffes muſt be fomewhat bended inwards;
for elſe its point will not deſcribe a Circle on the
greateſt Extuberances of the Globe, but will flide
off it.
Thus
220
TURNING.
Thus fhall the Ball or Globe be divided into
eight Spherical Quadrants: Defcribe as great a
Circle as you can in each of theſe Quadrants, and
each two Centers of every two oppofite Circles
ſhall have an imaginary Axix pafs between them:
And if the Globe be fucceffively pitcht upon all
the reft of the Centers,fo as the imagined Axis paf-
fing between it and its oppofite Center, lye in a
ftraight line with the Pike and the Center of the
Coller it is Turned in, the working out of all the
Hollows on the Ball will be but common Turners
Work, as you will find hereafter. This is in
brief the Theory: But to the Practice.
You muſt ufe an Hollow-Mandrel, made fit
ftifly to receive the convexity of the Globe in its
concavity, fo as it may ſtick firmly in the Man-
drel, in its pofition: And you muſt take care that
in pitching the Globe into the Mandrel, that the
imaginary Axis of the Globe (which is the Line
paffing between the two Centers of the two op-
pofite Circles as aforefaid) lye in a ſtraight Line
with the Axis of the Mandrel; which you may
know by examining whether the Circle defcribed
with your Compaffes (as aforefaid) on the Center
(aforefaid) wabble not in a whole Revolution of
the Globe, from the point of a Tool applied ſted-
dy to it.
Having thus pitcht the Globe true,and fixt it faft
into the Mandrel, you must begin to work with
the Triangular Grooving Point (defcribed in Tur-
ning § 5. and Plate 15.) placing the point of it
pretty near the Center of the Circle, and work
into the Ball with the Grooving Point, and fo by
degrees make a Hollow in the Ball fo deep, and
fo wide, as you think convenient, I mean fo deep
from the Superficies of the Globe towards the Cen-
ter of the Globe, and fo wide from the Center of
the Circle defcribed on the Superficies of the
Globe
TURNING.
221
}
Globe towards that Circle, as it may have a con-
venient Subſtance between this Hole, and the
next intended to be Turned.
Thus muſt every one of the eight Circles de-
fcribed on the Globe, be fucceffively by the fame
Rule, and after the fame manner be pitcht out-
wards, and fixt into the Mandrel, and then Hol-
lowed out as the firft was. Where Note, That
every Hollow is to be Turned to the fame depth
and width exactly as the firſt was: Which to do,
you muſt uſe a Gage made of a thin Plate of Iron
or Brafs, as is deſcribed in Plate 17. Fig. D. whoſe
two fides from a the Bottom of the Gage, to b
the Shoulder are the depth of the Hollow from the
Superficies of the Globe towards the Center: bb.
is the width of the Hollow at the Superficies of
the Globe; and a a is the bottom width of the
Hollow and the concave Arch between a a is an
;
Arch that the Convexity of the little folid Ball to
be Turned within all the Spheres muft comply
with. So that when each Hollow is Turned, the
Gage muſt be put into it to try how the fides of
the Hollow complies with the fides of the Gage,
and alfo how the Arch in the bottom of the Gage,
complies with the furface of the Solid Ball in the
middle.
Having thus Turned all the Hallows in the Globe,
you muſt provide ſeveral thin and narrow Arching
Grooving Tools, whofe convex and concave Arches
comply both with the Convexity and Concavity
of each Globe, or Sphere, to be Turned within the
outermoft: So that begining at the bottom of
the Hollow, you Turn juft half way of the Solid
Ball looſe from the Sphere it is contained in, viz,
as far as the Equinoctial of the Globe; and in
thus Turning it, you muſt take great care, that
the Solid Ball on its Convexity and the Concavi-
ty of the Sphere it is contained in, be both at the
fame time Turned exactly Spherical Thus
222
TURNING.
Thus one half of the Solid Ball being Turned
looſe, you may in like manner Turn the next
Sphere it is included in half loofe alfo: And fo
fucceffively as many Spheres as you lift.
Having thus Turned one half of all the Spheres
loofe, you muſt take the whole Globe out of the
Hollow-Mandrel, and pitcht and fix the Globe a-
gain into the Mandrel, fo as the imagined Axis
of the Hollow oppofite to the laft loofned Hollow
lye in a ſtraight line (as before was taught)
with the Pike and Center of the Coller the Man-
drel runs in, and then Turn the other half of the
Solid Ball and Spheres alfo loofe, as the first half
was Turned.
§ XXI. T, Turn a Globe with feveral loofe
Spheres in it, and a Solid Cube, or Dy,
in the middle of it.
His is Turned after the fame manner the for-
THis
mer Ball was Turned; only inſtead of divi-
ding the Equinoctial of that Globe into four equal
parts, the Equinoctial of this muſt be divided but
into three equal parts, and their Semi-Circle draw.
through the divifions into either Pole of the Globe:
So fhall the Globe be divided into fix equal parts,
or Segments; in each of which parts mult be de-
fcribed a Circle, as was deſcribed before in the
Globes of eight equal parts; and in theſe fix Cir-
cles muſt be made fix Hollows, as before there
was eight: But inſtead of working the Bottom
of each hollow Spherical, now the Bottom muft
be wrought Flat: So fhall the Cube when theſe fix
Hollows are thus made, be formed: And the Hol-
lows being exactly of the fame depth, and flat
in the Bottom, the Cube or Dy will loofen, and
each of the fix Flats in the Bottom will become
the fix fides or Faces of the Cube:
The
TURNING.
223
The manner of loofning all the other inward
Spheres, is as the Former: Only, that was loof-
ned with twice pitching the Ball in the Mandrel,
becauſe the Centers of the Hollows lay oppofite
to one another; but to looſen this Ball will re-
quire three Pitchings into the Mandrel; becaufe
the Centers lye not oppofite to one another.
§ XXII. To Turn a Cube, or Dy, in an Hol-
low Globe, that shall have but one Hole on
the outfide to work at.
THe Outfide of this Globe muſt be Turned
Round, viz. Spherical, as the former, and
fixed in an Hollow Socket (as before hath been
taught.) Then muſt an Hole be Turned in the
Globe fo deep and fo wide as you pleaſe, as in
the former Globes, and the Bottom of that Hole
Turned flat, for one fide, or Face of the Cube,
or Dy: Then with a Semi-circular Tool loofen
the whole Core, or middle of the Ball, and
pitch the Core with the point oppofite to the
Center of the already flatted face of the Dy,
outwards againſt the Hole in the Globe, and fo
faften it in this pofition, by powring in fome
melted hard Wax, or other Cement; and then
with a flat Tool Turn the forefide, (viz. the
fide oppofite to the firft fide) flat alfo: Which
done, loofen it out of the Wax, and fucceffive-
ly pitch the other fides to be Turned flat care-
fully againſt the Hole, fo as all the fides have
right Angles to each other, and faſtning them
with Wax, or Cement (as before) Turn them
by the fame Rule flat alſo.
*
Now
!
@24
TURNING.
}
Now to make this Thing more admirable to
the ignorant Spectator, you may make the Dy
as big as you can, and the Hole you Turn it at
as little as you can; that it may the more puz-
zle the Wit of the Enquirer to find how fo
great a Dy fhould have Entrance at a finall Hole,
unleſs the hollow Ball were turned in two Halves,
&'c.
МЕСНА-
225
MECHANICK EXERCISES:
OR,
The Doctrine of Handy-Works.
Applied to the ART of TURNING.
§ XXIII. Of Turning Oval Work.
T
HIS Work may be perform'd in the
Common Lathe that goes either with
the Treddle-Wheel, or the great Wheel;
becauſe the Work muft run always one
way, if the Puppet be made to it with the Ma-
chination deſcribed in Plate 17. and an Iron
Axis be made to carry the Work about, and to
its end be fitted and faftned a Brafs Coller, with
a Female Screw in it, to fcrew on the Mandrel
that the Work you intend to Turn is fixt upon.
To the Forefide of this Puppet is faftned at b,
as on a Center-pin, a ftrong Iron Coller marked
bb, and this Coller is called the Moving Coller S
becauſe it moves between the Iron Shackle c c,
and the Forefide of the Puppet. Into this Mo-
ving Coller is fitted the Hollow Axis marked
fo as to turn round in it as if it were in any of
the other Collors formerly defcribed; but the Mo-
ving Coller moving between the Sickles, and the
Forefide of the Puppet, carries the Hollow Axis
with it athwart the Puppet, even fo far as is the
width
Q
226
TURNING.
width of the Hollow between the Shackle, and the
Forefide of the Puppet. And thus by the moving
of the Hollow Axis backwards and forwards the
Work fcrewed in it, having an Edg'd, or a
Pointed-Tool applied to it, receives that Oval
Form which is made upon the Guide.
But to make it move thus to and from you,
there are required feveral Machinal Helps: For
there is a ſtrong Steel Bow as at a, faftned about
its middle part to the further fide of the Puppet,
which ftands about an Inch forwarder than the
Forefide of the Puppet with its hollow fide to the
Workman. And to the ends of this Steel Bow
is faftned a ſtrong String of Gut, and to the mid-
dle of that String in a Noos is faftned another
ftrong Gut-firing, with a Noos at its end. This
laft mentioned String is made exactly of that
length, that when the neareſt fide of the Guide,
viz. its leaft Diameter is fet into the Groove of
the Guide-pulley, and the Bow is ftrained, and this
String laid in the Groove of the String-pulley, the
Noos at the end of it may be put over the Iron
Button fixed in the top of the Moving-Coller. For
then as the Treddle-Wheel carries the Axis about,
the Guide being firmly faftned upon the Axis,
comes alſo about; and having the Groove of the
Guide-pulley fet againſt the outer edge of the
Guide, as the great Diameter of the Guide is
turned againſt the Guide-pulley, the Moving-Coller
being drawn by the ftrength of the Bow, draws
the Hollow Axis along with it, as alſo the Work
ſcrewed in the Hollow Axis: And thus as the
finall Diameter of the Guide comes to the Guide-
pulley, the fmall Diameter of the Work is For-
med; and as the great Diameter of the Guide
comes to the Guide-pulley, the great Diameter of
the Work is formed.
This is the fum of Oval Turning.
But
Plate 18
Pag227
e
C
C
a
do
Oa
его,
:
d
a
ď
B
с В
↓
A
b a
C
a
TURNIN G.
227
But that the whole Machine may be yet better
underſtood, I fhall more particularly give you
the names of all its parts, together with a De-
ſcription upon its moft material parts, where the
Fore-puppet is more largely delineated in Plate 18.
at A, where alfo fome of the Members moſt
difficult to be deſcribed, are drawn more at large
by themſelves.
a The Bow.
b The Moving Coller.
cc The Socket in which the Coller is moved.
d The Stop-fcrew, to take out when the Hol-
low Axis moves in the Moving-Coller.
e The Hollow Axis.
f The Head, in which is contained the feveral
Guides.
g The Center Head.
b The Button.
i The String-pulley.
k The Wheel-pulley.
1 The Guide-pulley.
1
1. Of the Hollow Axis, and its Shank, marked
a in Plate 18.
THe Shank is a Bar of Iron about an Inch
thick, and two Foot long, having in its fur-
ther end a Center-hole to pitch upon the Pike in
the further Puppet; but its hither end is made
fquare to fit tight into a fquare Socket, in the
Brafs Hollow Axis: And when it is thus fitted in-
to the hither end of the Braſs, it is Turned true
Cilindrically round, fo as to fit into the round
Hole in the Moving Coller. The Diameter of the
Round is about two Inches, and the length about
two Inches ftraight; but then a Shoulder is Tur-
ned to the Brafs Cilinder, to ftop it from flip-
ping thro' the Moving Center. In the Fore-end
Q3
of
228
TURNING.
of this Hollow Axis (viz. in the Brafs Cilinder)
is Turned a wide Hole about an Inch and a quar-
ter Diameter, and an Inch deep: And in this
wide Hole is Turned a Female Screw with a
courfe Thred, to receive a Male Screw made be-
hind the Mandrel that the Work is fixed upon.
About the middle of this Iron Shank is placed
a Pulley made of Wainfcot Board, about eight
Inches Diameter, and an Inch thick, with a
Groove on its outer edge about half an Inch wide,
and half an Inch deep, for the String of the Tred-
dle W'beel that carries the Axis about to run in:
And between this Pulley you may (if you will )
have feveral lengths of fuch Male-ſcrews as was
defcribed in Turning $6.4. and Plate 15. to
make Screws with, if you pleafe.
See the Figure adcb, disjunct from the reſt of
the Work.
a The hinder end.
d The Pulley of the Axis, or Wheel-pulley.
c The Hollow, or Hole in the Fore-end of the
Hollow Axis.
b The Shoulder of the Hollow Axis.
This
2. Of the Moving Coller marked b, in Plate 18.
'His whole Member is called the Moving Col-
ler, tho' the Coller ftrictly is only the round
Hole at a, into which the Hollow Axis is fitted.
It is made of Iron to reach from its top at h (the
Button) down to the bottom of the Cheeks of the
Lathe, as at b; upon which Pin (as on a Cen-
ter) the whole Moving Coller moves backwards
and forwards; its extream Breadth is about three
Inches, and its thicknefs above a quarter of an
Inch. Its Neck at c is clafped, but not fixed
down to the Forefide of the Puppet, for this Neck
is only gaged in the Shackle marcked c, fo as the
Neck, and confequently the whole Moving Col-
ler)
TURNING.
229
lev) may flide from end to end of the Shackle
forwards and backwards. d A fmall Female
Screw, into which through a Hole in the Shackle
is fitted a Male Screw to hold the Moving Coller
and the Shackle together, that the Moving Coller
may not move when only round Work is Tur-
ned in the Coller.
U
3. Of the Forefide of the Puppet, and the
Shackle marked c.
Nder this Shackle (viz. between it and the
Forefide of the Puppet) moves the Neck of
the Sliding-Coller from a to b, when the ends at
cc are fixed down to the Forefide of the Puppet
with two Iron Screws.
I
4. Of the Hollow in the Puppet marked d.
N the middle of the Puppet is hollowed out a
Hole about three Inches between the Fore and
Back-fide of the Puppet, and four Inches athwart
the Cheeks in the Puppet, and four Inches deep:
So that about an Inch of Subſtance remains on
each of the four upright fides. But the Top is
quite open, (as at a) through the middle of
this fquare Hole runs the Iron Axis marked b b,
on which is fixed the feveral Guides that are to
be uſed in this fort of Working.
It is open at the Top, that Light may be let
in to fet the Guide-pulley to which Guide you
pleaſe, and it is open on the hither fide as at
e e, about an Inch and an half above and below.
the Axis, that the Guide-pulley may be flid on its
Axis to any of the Guides.
The Guide-pulley marked d, is a brafs Pulley of
about an Inch Diameter, and a little above a quar-
ter of an Inch thick, having a Groove in the
Edge of it to receive the Edge of the Guide. It
hath in its middle a round Hole about half an
R 3
Inch
230
TURNING.
Inch Diameter, which round Hole flips over a
round Iron Pin of the fame Diameter, marked
ff, ſo as it may flide from one end of the faid
Iron Pin to the other, according as the Guides
may be fixed towards either end.
When it is uſed, the Groove in the Edge of
this Guide-pulley is fet againft the Edge of the
Guide, and being fitted tight on the round Iron
Pin aforefaid, and the two ends of the Iron Pin
faft fixed into the Wood of the Puppet, the Guide-
pulley may indeed move round on the Iron Pin;
but the ftrength of the Iron Pin, and Guide-pul-
ley will refift the extuberick parts of the Edge of
the Guide; and fo with the affiftance of the
ftrength of the Steel Bow force the Guide and
Hollow Axis to move backwards; and then an
Edge-Tool held to the Work in the Mandrel
fcrewed in the Hollow Axis, will defcribe the fame
Figure on the Work, as is on the out Edge of
the Guide.
:
Note, that when you are at Work, you muſt
keep the Hole in the middle of the Guide-pulley
well oyl'd, as alfo the round Iron Pin it flides
and turns round upon; becauſe this Guide-pulley
ought to run round: For then the Axis will
have and eaſier and fwifter motion, tho' it may
indeed perform the Work if it run not round
upon the Iron Pin.
R
§ XXIV. Of Roſe-work, &'c.
Ofe-Work Turning, or Works of any other
Figure, are performed by the fame Rule,
and after the fame manner as Oval Work is made;
only by changing the Guides, and ufing one
whofe outer Edge is made with the Figure, or
feveral Figures you intend to have on your
Work
S XXV.
TURNING.
231
§ XXV. Of Turning Swaſh-Work.
To the
as
O the Turning of Swah-work you muft
have two fuch Puppets, as the Fore-puppet
deſcribed in § 22. And alfo a round Swab-board,
about ten Inches Diameter, and an Inch and an
half thick, as is a in Fig. B. Plate 18. Upon
both the Hat fides of this Swafb-board, in a dia-
metrical Line, is faftned upright an Arch of a
Quadrant made of a Steel Plate, about half a
quarter of an Inch thick, and an Inch and a
quarter broad, as at b b, c c. The Convex edges
of theſe Quadrants are cut into Notches, like the
Teeth of an Hand-faw; that according as you
may have occafion to fet the Swash-board more
or leſs a-flope, you may be accommodated with
a Notch or Tooth to fet it at. This Swash-board
hath an Hole made about its Center, to flip o-
ver the Iron Axis, and being thus flipt over the
Iron Axis, you fet it to that Slope you intend the
Swash on your Work fhall have. And to fix it
faft in this pofition, you muſt put the Blades of
the Quadrants into two Slits, made in the Iron
Axis as at d d, and fit the two oppofite Teeth a-
gainſt the two outer Shoulders of the Slits.
You muſt morcover make two ſtrong Steel
Springs as at cc, to reach from the bottom of the
outer fides of the Puppets, being ftrong nailed,
or rather ſcrewed down there, which muft reach
fo high as the Axis. And in the inner fides
of thefe Springs muſt be made two Center holes
for the points of the Axis to be fitted in: For
the Oval-Guide being fitted to one end of the
Axis, and a Low-Puppet, as at f, wedged clofe
to one fide of the Swab-board, when the Swah
board ftands in its greateſt declirity; then in a
Revolution of the Axis, as the farther part of
the
232
TURNING.
the circumference of the Swab-board comes to
the Low-Puppet, one Spring will be forced back-
wards, and the other will fpring forwards; and
an Edg'd-Tool held againſt the Work fixed on
the Axis, will make on the Work the Form of
a Swash, &c.
Thefe Oval-Engines, Swaſh-Engines, and all o-
ther Engines, are excellently well made by Mr.
Thomas Oldfield, at the fign of the Flower-de-luce,
near the Savoy in the Strand, London.
ļ
AN
TURNING.
233
An Explanation of Terms used in thefe Ex-
ercifes of Turning, Alphabetically digested.
A.
Axis. The imagined ftraight Line that paf-
ſes through the two Center-points that
Turned Work is Turned upon. Thus the ima-
gined Line that paffes between the two Pikes
through the Work in the Lathe is the Axis.
B.
Bow. The Bow that common Turners uſe is
defcribed § 1. II. And the Bow that Oval
Turners uſe is defcribed § 23. and Plate 17, 18.
at a.
Button. The Button is defcribed § 23. and
Plate 17. at h.
C.
Allippers. Compaffes with bowed ſhanks to
meafure the Diameter of any round Body.
See § 11. and Plate 14. at O.
Center-head, See § 23. and Plate 17. at g.
Cheeks. See § 1. 2. and Plate 12. b b.
Chock. See $6.5. and Plate 13. at F. 5. a.
Cleaving-knife. See 9. and Plate 13. at M.
Crank. The end of an Iron Axis turned Square
down, and again turned Square to the firft tur-
ning down, fo that on the laft turning down a
Leather Thong is flipt, to Tread the Treddle-
wheel about.
Coller. See § 7. and Plate 13. at G H I.
Crook.
See Crank.
Crofs-Treddle. See § 1. 8. and Plate 12. at k.
¶
Drill
234
TURNING.
D.
DRill-Barrel. See Smithing Fol. 6. Plate 1
and Fig. 8. at C.
Drill-Bench. See 12. Plate 14. at a aaa.
Drill-Bow. See Smithing Fol. 6, 7.
F
Emale Screw. The Screw made in the round
Hole of a Nut.
Flat-Chiffel. See § 3. and Plate 15. at C C.
Flat-Mandrel. See § 6. and Plate 13. at F 1.
G
Gouge. See § 2. 91. and Plate 15. at B. B.
14. at a.
Great Wheel. See § 1.
12. and Plate
Grooving Hooks. See § 5. and Plate 15. at E.
Grooving Tools. See Grooving Hooks.
Guide. See § 23. 4. and Plate 18.
Guide-Pulley. See § 23. 4. and Plate 18. at d,
H.
¶
Ead. See 23. and Plate 17.
HE
Hook. See § 17. and Plate 16. at B. 1.
B 2. B 3.
Hollow Axis. See § 17. and Plate 17. at e.
Hollow Mandrels. See § 6. 3. and Plate 13.
at F 3.
I.
Joynt Collar. See § 7. and Plate 13. at G,
L
L.
Athe. See § 1. and Plate 12.
Legs. See § 1. and Plate 12. at a aaa.
Mun
TURNING.
235
M.
MA41, F 2. F 3. F4.
Andrel. See § 6. J. 1. and Plate 13. at
F1.
Mawl. See 8. and Plate 13. at K.
Male-Screw. The Screw made upon a Shank,
or Pin.
Moving-Collar. See § 23. 2. and Plate 18.
at b.
N.
Nut. A piece of Iron that a Female Screw
is made in.
P.
Ike. See § 1. § 5. and Plate 12.
Pike
at F 2.
Pin Mandrel See § 6. 2. and Plate 13.
Pole. See § 1.
Puppet. See § 1.
9. and Plate 12 at l.
3. and Plate 12. at ce.
R.
REA. See § 1.96. and Plate 12. at e.
Rowler. See § 6. and Plate 13. F 1. at b.
S.
Crew-Mandrel. See § 6. 4. and Plate 13.
at F 4.
Screw-M
¶
Seat. See § 1.
15.
Shackles. See 23.
§
2. and Plate 18. V at cc.
Side-Reft. See § 1. ¶ 7. and Plate 13. at e,
Socket. See Chock,
Steel-bow. See § 23. and Plate 18. at a.
Stop-Screw. See § 23. and Plate 17. at d.
String. See § 1. and Plate 12. at m.
String-Pulley. See § 23. and Plate 17. at i.
Swash. A Swash is a Figure whofe Circumfe-
rence is not Round but Oval; and whofe Moldings
lye
236
TURNING.
lye not at Right Angles, but Oblique to the Axis
of the Work. See 25. and Plate 18. at Fig. B.
Swash-Board. See § 25. and Plate 18. at a in
Fig. B.
Sweep. See $19. and Plate 16. at D.
T.
Read. See 13. Fol. 209.
◊
T Treddle. See § 1. and Plate 12. at i.
Treddle Wheel. See § 1. ¶ 13.
Turn-Bench. See § 18. and Plate 16. at C.
W.
W Abble. When a piece of Work is not
pitcht true upon its Centers, it will in a
Revolution incline more on one fide of its Cir-
cumference than on its oppofite fide. See 23.
and Plate 17. at k.
There are feveral other Terms ufed in theſe
Exercises of Turning, not explain'd here: But be-
cauſe they are uſed in ſome of the former Exer-
cifes, and there explain'd, I fhall referr you to
them.
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MECHANICK EXERCISES:
O R,
The Doctrine of Handy-Works.
Applied to the ART of Bricklayers Work.
B
Definition.
Ricklayers-Work is an Art Manual, which
Joins feveral Bodies fo together, that they
adhere like one entire Body.
Whether the White Mafon, which is
the Hewer of Stone, or the Red Mafon, which is
the Hewer of Brick, be the moſt Ancient, I know
not: but in Holy Writ, we read of making of
Bricks, before we read of Digging or Hewing
of Stones; therefore we may fuppofe the Red
Mafon (or Bricklayer) to be the moſt Ancient.
The method that I fhall ufe in Treating of this
Art fhall be this.
First, I will fhew what Materials they ufe,
and their Compofition.
Secondly, I will treat of their Tools, and de-
fcribe their Names and Ufes.
Thirdly, I will declare their Method of Work-
ing, both in Bricks, Tiles, &c.
And
238
BRICKLATERS WORK
Wic
And first of Materials.
Hich are compriſed under fix Heads, viz.
1. Bricks, 2. Tiles, 3. Morter, 4. Laths,
5. Nailes, 6. Tile-pins.
Of Bricks.
THey are made of Earth, of which the white-
iſh Chalky fort of Earth, and the Rediſh
are the beſt.
At Lunenburg in Saxony, they make them of a
fat Earth full of Allom. Alfo there are good
Bricks made at Pitane in Afia, of a Pumice fort
of Earth, which being dryed, will fwim in Wa-
ter and not Sink.
Likewiſe the Antients made them of Earth
which was Sandy.
But here in England they are made for the
moft part of a yellowish coloured fat Earth fome-
what Redifh.
And they are made of feveral forts and ſizes.
N Holland they make fmall ones, being about
fix Inches long, three Inches broad, and one
Inch in thickneſs.
Which fort of Bricks, is commonly uſed here
in England, to pave Yards or Stables withal; and
they make a good Pavement, and are very Du-
rable, and being laid edge-ways looks handfomly,
eſpecially if laid Herring-bone faſhion.
They are alfo ufed in Soap-boilers Fats, and in ma
king of "Ciſterns.
THe common Bricks that are made here in Eng-
land, are nine Inches in length, four Inches
and in Breadth, and two and an half in thick-
144
hefs; and ſometimes three Inches thick,
Most
BRICKLATERS WORK.
239
Moft Counties in England afford Earth for the
making of Bricks.
But the beft Earth that we have in England
for making of Bricks, is in the County of
Kent, from whence we have moſt of the Bricks
which are Rubbed and Hewed for the Ornaments
of the chief Fronts in the City of London: The
Ornamental part of which Fronts, are done with
the reddeſt Bricks they can pick from among
them; and the Rough or Plain Work, is done
with the Grey Kentish Bricks; alfo thofe Gray
Kentish Bricks are uſed in making of Cilterns to
hold Water, and Horfe-Ponds, and alfo Fats for
Soap-Boilers; and I am of the Opinion, that no
time will impair or decay thofe Grey Kentif
Bricks: But, as Pliny fays, (fpeaking of Bricks,)
that they will laſt to Eternity.
There are alfo in moſt Counties of England,
Bricks made for the Paving of Floors of Rooms,
Cellers, Dary-houses, &c. which are made of a
ftronger fort of Earth, than the common Bricks
for Building, the Earth being a kind of Clay, and
in fome Countries are called Clay Bricks, which
are dearer than the Ordinary Bricks by about fix
Shillings in a Thoufand.
Likewiſe in ſeveral Counties, but chiefly in
Surrey, are made Paving Tiles of three feveral
Magnitudes; the largeſt fort being twelve Inches
long, and twelve broad, and one Inch and an
half in Thickness.
The fecond fort are ten Inches long, and ten
Inches broad, and one Inch and a quarter thick,
The third fort are eight Inches long, eight
broad, and one Inch thick.
Either of which forts being Poliſhed or rubbed
with fharp Sand on the Surface, and the joints
made exactly fquare, and the fides equal, by
hewing
240
BRICKLATERS WORK
hewing them with a Brick Ax, and rubbing them
on a rubbing Stone with fharp, Sand, makes an
excellent Pavement and pleafing to the Eye,
eſpecially when laid Arris ways.
Having thus defcribed the feveral forts of
Bricks, and alfo paving Tiles, we come in the
next place to treat of Tiles, made and ufed in
the Covering of Roofs of Houses, both Publick
and Particular, of which are four forts or kinds.
The first fort are called Plains Tiles, being
made of a ſtrong fort of Earth like Clay; and
are, or ſhould be ten Inches and an half in length,
in breadth fix Inches and a Quarter, and in thick-
nefs three quarters of an Inch.
The fecond fort are Gutter or Hip Tiles, which
are uſed fometimes for Vallies and Hips of Rooffs,
altho' here at London, the Vallies are commonly
tiled with Plain Tiles, and the Hips with Ridge,
or (as fome call them) Roof Toiles: Thefe Gut-
ter Tiles are in length ten Inches and an half, with
convenient breadth and thicknefs accordingly,
and are made Circular or hollow, and wider at
one end than at the other.
The third fort are Ridge or Roof Tiles, being
in length thirteen Inches, and made Circular
breadthways like an half Cylinder, whofe Dia-
meter is about ten Inches, or more, and about
half an Inch and half a quarter in thickneſs:
Theſe are laid upon the upper parr, or ridge of
the Roof, and alſo on the Hips.
The fourth fort are Pan-Tiles, being about
thirteen Inches long, with a Nob or Button to
hang on the Laths, and are made hollow or cir-
cular breadthways, being eight Inches in breadth,
and about half an Inch in thicknefs, or fome-
what more. The beſt fort of theſe are brought
from Holland into England, and are called Flem-
mifh Pan-Tiles, we having fuch Tiles made here
in
}
BRICKLATERS WORK
241
in England, but not fo good: Which Flemmi
Tiles are fometimes glazed, and are of a Lead,
or Blewiſh colour, and being glazed they are ve-
ry durable and hand fom.
Having done with the Defcription of Tiles, for
the Covering of Roofs, we come in the next place
to treat of Morter, and firſt of Lime, being the
chief Material of which the Mortar is made, for
the Cementing or joining of Tiles, as well as
Bricks together, we will Treat of it in the firft
place.
Of Limé.
Here are two forts, one made of Stone,
which is the ſtrongeft, and the other of
Chalk, both forts being burnt in a Kilne.
The Lime that is made of foft Stone or Chalk
is uſeful for Plaſtering of Seelings and Walls
within Doors, or on the infides of Houfes; and
that made of hard Stone, is fit for Structures or
Buildings, and Plaſtering without Doors, or on
the out fide of Buildings that lies in the Wea-
ther; and that which is made of greafy clam-
my Stone, is ſtronger than that made of lean
poor Stone; and that which is made of ſpongy
Stone, is lighter than that made of firm and clofe
ftone; that is again more Commodious for Pla-
ftering, this for Building.
Alfo very good Lime may be made of Mill-
fone, not courfe and Sandy, but fine and Greafy.
Likewife of all kinds of Flints (but they are
hard to burn except in a Reverbratory Kilne) ex-
cept thofe that are roled in the Water, becauſe
a great part of its increafe goes away by a kind
of Glafs.
But the fhells of Fiſh, as of Cockles, Oyſters,
c. are good to burn for Lims.
R
And
242
BRICK LATERS WORK.
And the Fire in Lime burnt, Affwages not, but
lies hid, fo that it appears to be cold, but Wa-
ter excites it again, whereby it Slacks and crum-
bles into fine Powder.
Lime alfo is uſeful in divers things, for 'tis ufe-
ful in Oyles and Wines, and good to Manure
Land with; fome feafon new Wine with it, mit-
tigating the unpleaſantnefs of the Wine there-
with.
Moreover quick Lime being caft into an arch-
ed Vault, and Water thrown upon it, confumes
dead Bodies put therein.
Alfo Diers and Tanners, and likewife Phyficians
ufe it, but they chooſe the neweſt, to wit, that
which is newly drawn out of the Kiln, and not
flack'd with Water or Air.
It will burn fo vehemently, that it makes
crufts, and will fire Boards or Timber againſt
which it lies; but being flackt for fometime, it
burns no more, yet it warms and dries, and dif
folves Fleſh; and being wafhed three or four
times, it Bites or Eats not, but dries quickly.
Lime mixt with Sand is much ufed in Build-
ings; and Vitruvius fays, That you may put
three parts of Sand that is digged (or pit Sand)
and one part of Lime to make Morter; but if the
Sand be taken out of a River, or out of the Sea,
then two parts thereof, and one of Lime; as al-
fo to River to Sea-Sand, if you put a third part
of Powder of Tiles or Bricks, (to wit, Tile, or
Brick duft) it works the better.
But Vitruvius his Proportion of Sand feems
too much, altho' he ſhould mean the Lime before
it is flacked; for one Bushel of Lime before it is
flack'd, will be five Pecks after 'tis flack'd.
Here at London, where for the moſt part our
Lime is made of Chalk, we put about thirty fix
Bufhels of Pit-Sand, to twenty five Bufhels of
Quick-
BRICKLATERS WORK. 243
Quick-Lime, that is about one Buſhel and half
of Sand, to one Bufhel of Lime.
And Lime mixt with Sand, and made into
Morter, if it lye in an heap two or three Years
before 'tis uſed, it will be the ftronger and bet-
ter, and the reafon of ſo many infufficient Build-
ings, is the ufing of the Morter, as foon as 'tis
made, as Agrícola faith.
Moreover there is other Morter ufed in making
of Water-courſes, Cifterns, Fifh-ponds, &c.
which is very hard and durable, as may be feen
at Rome, at this day, which is called Maltha,
from a kind of Bitumen Dug there; for as they
build moft firm Walls thereof naturally, fo they
uſe it in making of Ciſterns to hold Water, and
all manner of Water-works; and alfo in finiſh-
ing or Plaſtering of Fronts to reprefent Stone.
And I find two kinds of Artifices ufed by the
Antients, both of which is compounded of Lime
and Hogs-greafe, but to one is added the Juice of
Figs, and to the other Liquid Pitch; and the
Lumps of Lime are firft wet or flack'd with Wine,
then pounded or beat with Hogs-greafe, and juice
of Figs, or with the fame Pitch; that which
hath Pitch in it, is blacker and eaſily diſtingu-
fhed from the other by its Colour, and that
which is Plaſtered with this Tarrace, is done o-
ver with Linfeed Oil.
Metalifts ufe a kind of Tarrace in their Veffels
for fining of Mettals, that the melted Mettle run
not out; for as the Moderns reftrain Water, and
contain it, fo the Antients, this liquid Mettal,
and 'tis compounded or made of Quick-Lime and
Ox Blood, the Lime being beat to Powder and
fifted, and then mixt with the Blood and beat
with a Beater.
But their Cement differs from both the Malthas
in Compofition and ufe, for 'tis made of Duft
R 2
Of
244
BRICKLATERS WORK.
or Powder of Marble, and Glew made of Bull or
Qx Leather, and with this they glew pieces of
Marble or Stones together.
In latter times, two kinds of Cement are in ufe,
in both which they uſe the Powder of Marble,
or other Stone, to one is added the Whites of
Eggs, to the other is added Pitch; to theſe fome
add other things, as the Gravers of Gems, they
make it of Tile Duft and Pitch.
Another Material which Bricklayers ufe are
Laths, which are made of heart of Oak, for out
fide Work, as Tiling and Plaftering; and of Fir
for infide Plaftering and Pantile Lathing; their
ufual lengths being 5 Foot, and 4 Foot, and
fometimes longer or fhorter; their Breadth fome-
times 2 Inches, and one Inch and an half, the
thickneſs about of an Inch or thicker: But for
Pantiling, the Laths, are about ten Foot long,
One Inch and half Broad, and half an Inch or
more thick.
4
Another Material is Nails, of which they uſe
three forts, one is called, Reparatian or Lath
Nails, which are ufed for plain Tile Lathing,
and outfide and infide Lathing for Plaftring; a-
nother fort are four Penny, and fix Penny Nails,
ufed for Pantile Lathing; and a third fort are
great Nails for Scaffolding.
Moreover they uſe Tile-Pins, which are fome-
times made of Oak, and fometimes of Fir, which
they drive into holes that are made in the Plain
Tiles to hang them upon their Lathing.
They alfo put Ox or Cow Hair into the Mortar
which they uſe for Plastering, being called Lime
and Hair, which Hair keeps the Mortar from
Cracking or Chaping, and makes it hold or bind
together.
And whereas they make ufe of the ſharpeft
Sand they can get (that being beft) for Morter,
to
BRICKLATERS WORK.
245
to lay Bricks and Tiles in; fo they chofe a fat
Loamy or Greafy Sand for infide Plafterning, by
reafon it ſticks together, and is not fo fubject to
fall affunder when they lay it on Seelings or
Walls.
Having given you an account of the feveral
Materials that are ufed in Bricklayers Work, we
fhall in the next place Treat of their Tools and
their ufes, which are as follows.
1.
Tools used in Brick Work.
A Brick Trowel to take up the Morter with,
and to fpread it on the Bricks, with
which alſo they cut the Bricks to fuch lengths as
they have occafion, and alſo ſtop the joints.
2. A Brick Ax, with which they cut Bricks to
what ſhape they pleafe, as fome for Arches both
ftreight and Circular, others for the mouldings
of Architecture, as Archytrave Friez and Cor-
nice.
3. A Saw made of Tinn, to ſaw the Bricks
which they cut.
4. A Rub-ftone, which is round, and is about
fourteen Inches Diameter, and fometimes_more
or leſs at pleaſure, on which they rub the Bricks
which they cut into feveral fhapes, and alfo o-
thers which they cut not, being call'd Rubbed
Returns, and Rubbed Headers and Stretchers.
5. A Square, to try the bed of the Brick, (viz.
that fide which lies in the Morter) with the fu-
perficies or face of the Brick, to make the Brick
fquare, or at Rect-angles one fide with the other,
which is done by rubing it on the Rub-ſtone till
it exactly anſwers, or fits to the Square.
6. A Bevel, by which they cut the underfides
of the Bricks, of Arches ftreight or circular, to
fuch oblique Angles as the Arches require, and
alfo for other Ufes.
R 3
7. A
246
BRICK LATERS WORK.
7. A Small Trannel of Iron, or a large Nail
ground'd to a fharp point, with which they
mark the Brick, either from a Square or Bevel,
or a Mould made of thin Wainscot, or Paft-
board to direct them in the cutting thereof.
8. Some ufe a Float Stone, with which they
rub the moulding of the Brick, after they have
cut it with the Ax, pretty near to the Pattern de-
fcribed on the Brick, by the Trannel from the
Wainſcot, or Paftboard Mould, that fo they
may make the Brick exactly to anſwer to the
Pattern or Mould. Others ufe no Stone at all.
but cut the Brick exactly to the Pattern with
their Brick-Ax, leaving the Ax ftroaks to be feen
on the Brick, which, if they be ftreight and
pa-
rallel one to another, look very prettily, and is
the trueft way of Working; but then they muft
take care, to Ax the Brick off, with an Ax that
is exactly ftreight on the edge, that the mould-
ing in the Brick be neither round nor hollow,
from fide to fide of a Header, or from end to end
of a Stretcher.
9. A Little Ruler, about 12 Inches in length,
and I Inch and broad, which they lay on the
Brick to draw ftreight Lines by, with the Tran-
nel or Nail.
10. A Banker, to cut the Bricks upon, which
is a piece of Timber about fix foot long, or more,
according to the number of thoſe who are to
work at it, and 9 or 18 Inches fquare, which
muſt be laid on two Piers of Brick, or fixt on
Bearers of Timber about three foot high from the
Floor, on which they ftand to work.
11. They work up a Pier of Brick-work, a-
bout the fame height to lay their Rubbing-Stone
upon, which muſt be laid in Morter that it may
lye faft.
12. A
2
BRICKLATERS WORK.
247
12. A Grinding-ftone, to fharpen their Axes,
Hammers, Trowels, &c. upon.
13. A Pair of Line Pins of Iron, with a length
of Line on them about fixty feet in length, to
lay each Row, or Courfe of Bricks, level on the
Bed, and ftreight on the Surface by, a Line fel-
dom holding to ftrein, or draw ftreight in length,
above 50 or 60 feet.
14. A Plumb Rule about 4 foot long, with a
Line and Plummet of Lead, to carry their Work
upright, or perpendicular withal.
15. A Level, about 10 or 12 foot long, to fet
out their Foundations level, or parallel to the
Horizon, and alfo to try whether the Walls of
the Building, or Jambs of Chimneys, be carried
level, as they raiſe the Work, that fo they may
bring up all their Brick-work to an exact hori-
zontal height, at the laying on of ever floor of
Carpentry.
16. A Large Square, to fet their Walls at rect-
angles, which may alfo be done without a Square,
by ſetting 6 foot from the angle one way, and 8
foot the other way, then if the Diagonal line,
or Hypotenufe, be exactly 10 feet, the angle is a
rectangle: If not, you must fet the Wall that is
to be at rectangles to the other, either this or that
way, till the two meaſures of 6 and 8 feet an-
fwer exactly to 10 feet.
17. A Ten Foot and a Five Foot Rod, as alfo a
Two Foot Rule, to take and lay down Lengths,
and Breadths, and Heights.
18. A Jointing Rule, about 10 foot long, and a-
bout 4 Inches broad, whereby to run the long
Joints of the Brick-work.
19. A Fointer of Iron, with which, and the
forefaid Rule, they joint the long Joints, and
alfo the Cross Joints, thefe being done with the
Jointer without the Rule.
R. 4
|
20. Com
248
BRICKLATERS WORK.
A
20. Compaffes, to defcribe the feveral Mould-
ings on Wainfcot or Paftboard.
21. A Hammer, to cut Holes in Brick-work,
and drive Nails for Scarfolding.
22. A Rammer, to Ram the Foundations.
23. A Crow of Iron, to dig through a Wall,
and alfo a Pick-Ax.
The Manner and Shapes of the aforefaid Tools,
you may fee in Plate 1. and the Name of each
Tool in the Page next the Plate wherein they are
delineated.
I.
The Names and Ufes of Tools relating to Tyling.
1.A
Lathing Hammer, to nail on the Laths
withal, with two Gauge Stroaks (for
Lathing for Tyling) cut upon the handle of it,
one at 7 Inches from the head, and the other at
7 Inches and an half, fome indeed Lath at 8
Inches, but that is too wide, occafioning Rain-
ings in.
2. A Lathing Staff of Iron, in the form of a
Croſs, to stay the crofs Laths while they are
nailed to the long Laths, and alſo to clinch the
Nails.
3. A Tyling Trowel, to take up the Morter and
lay it on the Tiles, it being longer and narrower
than a Brick-Trowel, altho' for a fhift many times
they uſe a Brick-Trowel to Tyle withal, when
they have not a Tyling-Trowel.
4. A Boffe, made of Wood, with an Iron Hook,
to hang on the Laths, or on a Ladder, in which
the Labourer puts the Morter which the Tyler
ufes.
5. A Striker, which is only a piece of Lath
about 10 Inches long, with which they ftrike,
or cut off the Morter at the britches of the Tiles.
6. A Broome, to ſweep the Tyling after 'tis
strooke,
Of
BRICKLAYERS WORK.
249
I.
Of the Names and Ufes of Tools relating to
1.A
Plaftering.
Lathing Hammer being the fame as before
in Tyling, with which the Laths are
nailed on with its head, and with its Edge they
cut them to any length, and likewife cut off any
part of a Qurter, or Joyft, that ſticks further
out than the reſt.
2. A Laying Trowel, to lay the Lime and Hair
withall upon the Laths, it being larger than a
Brick Trowel, and faftned its handle in a different
manner from the Brick Trowel.
3. A Hawke, made of Wood about the big-
nefs of a ſquare Trencher, with a handle to hold
it by, whereon the Lime and Hair being put,
they take from it more or lefs as they pleaſe.
4. A Setting Trowel, being lefs than the Laying
Trowel, with which they finiſh the Plaſtering
when it is almoft dry, either by Trowelling and
briſhing it over with fair Water, or elfe by lay-
ing a thin Coat of fine ftuff made of clean Lime,
and mixt with Hair without any Sand, and fet-
ting it, that is to fay, Trowelling and briſhing it.
5. Á fmall Pointing Trowel, to go into fharp
Angles.
6. Brishes, of three forts, viz. A Stock Briſh, a
Round Brish, and a Pencil. With thefe Brishes,
they wet old Walls before they mend them, and
alfo brifh over their new Plaſtering when they
fet, or finish it, and moreover white and fize
their Plaſtering with them. The Pencil, or Draw-
ing Tool, is uſed in blacking the bottoms, or lower
ports of Rooms, &c.
7. Floats, made of Wood, with handles to
them, which they fometimes ufe to float Seel-
ings or Walls with, when they are minded to
make their Plaſtering very freight and even,
thefe
250
BRICKLAYERS WORR
theſe Floats being fome larger, and fome leffer,
than the Laying Trowels: Likewiſe they uſe Floats
made to fit to Mouldings, for the finiſhing of
feveral forts of Mouldings with finiſhing Morter
to reprefent Stone, fuch as Cornices, Facias, Ar-
chytraves, &c.
The finiſhing Morter to reprefent Stone, fhould
be made of the ſtrongeſt Lime, and the fharpeft/
Sand you can get, which Sand muſt be waſhed
in a large Tub, very well, till no Scum or Filth
ariſe in the Water, when you ftir it about, which
fometimes will require to have Water 5 or 6
times, when the Sand is fomewhat foul; and it
requires a greater Proportion of Sand than the
ordinary Morter, becanfe it muſt be extreamly
beaten, which will break all the knots of Lime,
and by that means it will require more Șand.
8. Streight Rules of feveral lengths, to lay
Quines ftreight by, and alfo to try whether the
Plaſtering be laid true and ftreight, by applying
the Rules to their Work.
9. A Pale, to hold Water or Whitewash, or
White and Size.
10. Some uſe a Budget or Pocket to hang by
their fides, to put their Nails in when they Lath,
and others Tuck and tye up their Aprons, and put
the Nails therein.
Having given you a Deſcription of the feveral
Tools and uſes, there are ſome things yet remain-
ing, which tho' they cannot be properly called
Tools, yet they are Utenfils, without which they
cannot well perform their Work.
And
BRICKLATERS WORK.
251
L
And they are.
1. Adders of feveral lengths, as Standard-
Ladders, two Story, and one Story Lad-
ders, &c.
2. Fir Poles, of feveral lengths for Standards
and Ledgers for Scaffolding.
3. Putlogs, which are pieces of Timber, or
fhort Poles, about 7 Foot long, which lies from
the Leggers into their Brickwork, to bear the boards
they ſtand on to Work, and to lay Bricks and
Morter upon.
4. Fir Boards, about 10 Foot long, and any
Breadth, but commonly about a Foot broad, be-
cauſe for the moft part, four of them in breadth,
makes the breadth of the Scaffold: Which boards
ought to be one Inch and or two Inches in
thickneſs, altho' commonly they make uſe of
fome, which are not above one Inch thick, which
are fometimes fubject to break, efpecially when
the Putlogs lye far afunder from one another.
5. Chords, which fhould be well Pitched to
preſerve them from the Weather, and rotting,
with which they faften the Ledgers to the Stan-
dards, or upright Poles.
6. Sieves, of feveral forts, fome larger, others
leffer, fome finer, others courfer, to fift the Lime
and Sand withal, before they wet it into Morter
or Lime and Hair.
A
7. A Loame-book, Beater, Shovel, Pick-Ax,
Basket and Hod, which commonly belong to
Bricklayers, Labourers, and may be called the La-
bourers Tools.
8. A Skreen made of Boards and Wyer, which
performs the Office of a Sieve, and with which
one Man will Skreen as much Lime, mixt with
Sand or Rubifh, as two Men can with a Sieve.
9. Boards
252 BRICK LATERS WORK.
ว
9. Boards or Tubs, to put the Morter in.
And except my memory fails me, theſe are
all, or the moft ufual Tools and Utenfils, which
they make uſe of
Having now given you an account of their ſe-
veral Materials, together with their neceffary
Tools and Utenfils; we fhall proceed in the next
place to treat of the Method of working, which
is various, fome working after a better Method,
and more conciſely than others.
And first of Foundations.
Is ufual, and alfo very convenient, for any
perfon before he begins to Erect a Building,
to have Defigns or Draughts drawn upon Paper
or Vellum, and alfo if it be a large Building,
to have a Model of it made in Wainſcot; in
which Deſigns and Model, the Ground Plat or
Ichnography of each Floor or Story, is deline-
ated and reprefented: As alfo the faſhion and
form of each Front, together with the Windows,
Doors, and Ornaments, if they intend any, to
wit, Facias, Ruftick Quines, Architraves, Friezes
and Cornices, are to be fhewn in the Draughts or
Defigns of the Uprights or Orthographyes.
If more Fronts than one be fhewn Perfpectively
in one Draught, then 'tis called Scenography
which is not eafily underſtood, except by thoſe
who underſtand the Rules of Perspective.
Therefore it will be more Intelligible to the
feveral Workmen, to have a Draught of each
Front in a Paper by it felf, and alfo to have a
Draught of the Ground-Plat or Ichnography of
every ſtory, in a Paper by it felf, becaufe many
times the Conveniences, or Contrivances in one
Story, differs from thoſe in another, either in
bignefs of Chimneys, or divifion of the Rooms,
fome being larger in one Story than another, and
fome-
BRICKLATERS WORK.
253
fometimes having more Chimnies in one Story
than in another, &c.
All which things being well confidered, and
drawn on Papers, or a Model made thereof, be-
fore the Building is begun, there will be no need
of Alterations, or Tearing and pulling the Build-
ing to pieces after it is begun; for befides the
hindrance of the Procedure of the Work, it makes
the Building lame and Deficient, nothing being
fo well done, when 'tis put up, and pulled down,
and fet up again, as if it were well done at firft.
Befides it makes the Workmen uneafy, to fee
their Work, in which they have taken a great
deal of pains, and uſed a great deal of Art, to
be pull'a to pieces.
The drawing of Draughts is moft commonly
the work of a Surveyor, although there be many
Maſter Workmen that will contrive a Building,
and draw the Defigns thereof, as well, and as
curioufly, as moft Surveyors: Yea, fome of them
will do it better than fome Surveyors; efpe-
cially thoſe Workmen who underſtand the Theo-
rick part of Building, as well as the Practick.
MECHA
254
MECHANICK EXERCISES:
OR,
The Doctrine of Handy-Works.
And now concerning the Foundations.
A
Fter the Cellars are dug, if there are to
be any, or if none, after the Trenches
are dug, in which the Walls are to
ftand; the Mafter-Bricklayer, or elſe
his Foreman (which ought to be an ingenious
Workman) mult in the firft place try all the
Foundations, in feveral places, with an Iron
Croe, and Rammer, or, indeed, with a Borer
(fuch as Well-Diggers uſe, to try what Ground
they have to produce Water) to fee whether the
Foundations are all found, and fit to bear the
Weight which is to be fet upon them. If he find
any part of the Foundations defective, he ought
to dig it deeper till he comes to firm ground; of
if it proves to be loofe, or made Ground to a
great depth, then he muſt take care to make it
good and fufficient to carry its Weight by Art,
which may be done feveral ways.
Firſt, If the Foundation be not very lofe, and
infufficient, it may be made good, by ramming
in
BRICK LATERS WORK.
255
in great Stones with a heavy Rammer, the Stones
being placed clofe together, and about a foot
wider on each fide of the Trench than the width
of the Wall is to be; becauſe all Walls ought
to have a Bafis, or Footing, at leaſt 4 Inches on
a fide broader than the thickneſs of the Wall;
which Stones being well rammed, and the Bafis
being 8 Inches more in breadth than the thick-
nefs of the Wall, and this 8 Inches being fet off,
about one Inch, or one Inch and an half at a
time on both fides (that fo the middle of the
Wall may ſtand on the middle of the Bafis) may
make the Foundation good, and able to bear its
Burden.
But if the Foundation be fomewhat worſe than
as aforefaid, then he muſt get good pieces of
Oak, whofe length muſt be the breadth of the
Trench, or about two foot longer than the breadth
of the Wall, which must be laid crofs the Foun-
dation about foot afunder, and being well ram-
med down, lay long Planks upon them, which
planking need not be the length of the crofs
pieces, but only 4 Inches of a fide wider than
the Bafis, or footing of the Wall is to be, and
pin'd or fpiked down to the pieces of Oak on
which they lye.
But if the Foundations be fo bad that this will
not do, then he muft provide good Piles made
of Heart of Oak, of fuch a length as will reach
ground, whofe Diameter muſt be about part
of their length, which muſt be drove or forced
down with a Commander, or an Engin for that
purpoſe, and then lay long Planks upon them,
and fpike or pin the Planks to them, and the
clofer together that thefe Piles are drove the bet-
ter it will be.
More-
256
BRICKLAYERS WORK.
:
Moreover, if the Foundation be faulty but int
here and there a place, and there be good Ground
in the other parts of it, you may turn Arches o-
ver thoſe infufficient places, which will dif
charge and take off the weight from the loofe
places.
And when you make theſe Arches to ſhun the
difficulty of the Earth, and to fave the charge
of Expence, they muſt be made of Bricks and
Morter that are very good, and be well wrought,
that they do neither fettle nor give way.
You may obferve for the greater ftrength of
thefe Arches, or Difcharges, to make them high-
er than a Semicircle, or half round, if the Work
will admit of it, and to make the fame, of Por-
tions of Arches: As in Plate 3. Fig. 4. you may
fee, they are deſcribed from an Equilateral Tri-
angle; that is to fay, fuppofing the breadth of
the Arch between the Piers to be AB; with
this width, and from the points A and B, make
the two Portions of the Arches AC and BC;
this rifing fo high, adds great ftrength to the
Arches to refift, or carry the Weight which they
are to bear.
The ancient Architect Leon Baptifta Albert ad-
viſes, when the Earth on which we would make
Pillars or Piers is of equal refiftance, that is to
fay, not good, to turn Arches inverfed, or up-
fide down, and fays, by this means one Pillar
fhall bear no more weight than another, when
the Earth that is underneath is not fo ftrong, or
that it bears more than another part; which he
doth thus.
Having wrought up the Pillars, or Piers, as
high as is neceffary from the Foundation, make
from theſe Piers inverfe Arches, as ABC in
Plate 3. Fig. 5. whofe Joints tend to the Cen-
ter D.
By
A B
Fig. 4.
A
Fig. 2.
A
Plate 3.
BA
Fig. 2.
H
K
A
F
Fig. 5.
Fig. 3.
i
D
Pag.256.
B
BRICKLATERS WORK. 257
By this conftruction he pretends for Example,
that if the Pier F hath a worſe Foundation, or
hath a greater Weight, that is to fay, is more
charged than the other Piers, this charge, or
weight, will be ſtopped, or ſtayed by the Inverfe
Arches ABC, IHK, becauſe the Earth which
is under theſe Arches keeps the Piers in the fame
height, that is to fay, that they fhall not fink.
But he muſt alfo fuppofe that this Earth is as
firm as that of the Foundation of the Piers, or
at least it muſt be made fo.
The Ingenious Surveyor Mr. Hook, made ufe
of this Artifice, as I am informed, in building
the Lord Montague's brave Houſe in Bloomsbury,
in the County of Middlefex, and where he was
then Surveyor.
The Foundation being all made firm, and le-
velled, the Maſter-Bricklayer, or his Foreman,
muſt take care to fee all the Foundations fet tru-
ly out, according to the defign of the Ground-
plat, or Cellar-floor, and that all his Walls be
made of the fame thickneſs as they are in the
Defign; which is very difficult to do, to wit,
to take the true thicknefs of the Walls from a
Defign that is drawn to a fmall Scale, becauſe
the breadth of the Points of the Compaffes will
vary fomewhat; therefore 'tis advifable for him
that draws the Draught, to fet the Dimenſions
in Figures to each Wall, Chimney, Window,
&c. and then the Workman cannot fo eafily
make a Miſtake.
And becauſe the well-working and bonding of
Brick-walls conduces very much to their ftrength,
I will here add fome fome neceffary Rules to be
obferved in the laying of Bricks, to make the
Walls and ftrong and durable.
ន
1. That
258
BRICK LATERS WORK
First. That the Morter he made of well burnt
good Lime, and ſharp Sand, and that it have a
due proportion of Sand, that is to fay, if it be
very fharp, a Load of Sand, being about 36 Bu-
fhels, is fufficient for an Hundred of Lime, be-
ing 25 Bufhels, or an hundred Pecks, (for I
imagine that the word Hundred of Lime is ufed,
becauſe it contains an Hundred Pecks, and that
in Old Time they uſed to fell it by the Peck,
but now by the Bufhel) to wit, to one Bufhel
of Quick Lime, a Bufhel and half of Sand.
But if the Sand be not very harp, then you
may put a greater quantity of Sand, for Mor
ter which hath its due proportion of Sand, is
ſtronger than that which hath lefs Sand in it,
altho' fome think otherwiſe.
Secondly, When you flack the Lime, take care
to wet it every where a little, but do not over-
wet it, and cover with Sand every laying, or bed
of Lime, being about a Bufhel at a time as you
flack it up, that fo the Stream, or Spirit of the
Lime, may be kept in, and not flee away, but
mix it feif with the Sand, which will make the
Morter much ftronger, than if you flack all
your Lime firſt, and throw on your Sand alto-
gether at laft, as fome ufe to do.
Thirdly, That you beat all your Morter with
a Beater three or four times over before you ufe
it, for thereby you break all the Knots of Lime
that go through the Sieve, and incorporate the
Sand and Lime well together, and the Air which
the Beater forces into the Morter at every ftroak,
conduces very much to the ſtrength thereof.
IF
BRICK LATERS WORK. 259
If I might adviſe any one that is minded to
build well, or uſe ſtrong Morter for Repairs, I
would have them beat the Morter well, and let
it lie 2 or 3 Days, and then beat it well again
when 'tis to be uſed.
Fourthly, If you lay bricks in hot dry Wea-
ther, and be it fome fmall piece of Work that
you would have very strong, dip every Brick
you lay, all over in a Pale of Water, which
will make the Wall much ſtronger than if the
Bricks were laid dry: The reafon why I mention
a fmall piece of Work is, becaufe 'tis a great
deal of trouble to wet them for much Work, or
a whole Building, and befides it makes the
Workmen's Fingers fore; to prevent which,
they may throw Pales of Water on the Wall
after the Bricks are lay'd, as was done at the
building of Phyficians College in Warwick-Lane,
by order of the Surveyor, which was the afore
faid Ingenious Mr. Hook, if I miſtake not.
Fifthly, Cover all your Walls in the Sum
mer-time to keep them from drying too haftily,
for the Morter doth not Cement fo ftrongly to
the Bricks when it dries haftily, as when flowly.
Sixthly, Be fure to cover them very well in the
Winter-time, to preferve them from Rain, Snow
and Froft, which laft is a great Enemy to all
kinds of Morter, eſpecially to that which hath
taken wet juſt before the Froft.
Seventhly, In working up the Walls of a Buil-
ding, do not work any Wall above 3 foot high
before you work up the next adjoining Wall,
that fo you may join them together, and make
Sa
good
260
BRICKLAYERS WORK
good Bond in the Work: For 'tis an ill Cuſtom
among fome Bricklayers, to carry, or work up a
whole Story of the Party-walls, before they
work up the Fronts, or other Work adjoining,
that fhould be bonded or worked up together
with them, which occafions Cracks and Setlings
in the Walls.
Eightly, Take care that you do not lay Joint
on Joint, in the middle of the Walls as feldom
as may be, but make bond there as well as on
the outfides; for I have ſeen fome, who in work-
ing of a Brick and half Wall, have laid the
Header on one fide of the Wall, upright upon
the Header on the other fide of the Wall, and
fo all along through the whole courfe, which
indeed neceffarily follows from the inconfiderate
fetting up of the Quine at a Toothing; for 'tis
common to Tooth in the ſtretching courfe two
Inches with the Stretcher only, and the Header
on the other fide, to be fet upright upon the
Header on this fide, which cauſes the Headers
to lye Joint in Joint in the middle of the Wall,
as in Plate 3. Fig. 1. you may fee.
Whereas if the Header of one fide of the
Wall, toothed as much as the Stretcher on the
other fide, it would be a ftronger Toothing, and
the Joints of the Headers of one fide, would be
in the middle of the Headers of the courſe
they lye upon of the other fide, as in Plate 3.
Fig. 2.
All that can be faid for this ill Cuftom of
working, is this, that the Header will not well
hang two Inches over the Bricks underneath it,
I grant it will not, but then it may be made, by
having a piece of Fir, or any other Wood of
the thickness of a Courfe of Bricks, and two
Inches
BRICK LATERS WORK.
261
Inches broad, and lay it on the laft Toothing
Courſe to bear it; or a Bat, put upon the laft
Toothing, will bear it till the next Quine is fet
upon it, and then the Bat may be taken away.
Ninthly, The fame Inconveniency happens at
an upright Quine in a Brick and half Wall,
where 'tis ufual to lay a Clofier next the Header
on both fides of the Wall, and in fo doing 'tis
Joint in Joint all the length of the Wall, except
by chance a three quartern Bat happen to be laid.
To prevent which Inconveniency, and to make
the Wall much ſtronger, lay a Clofure on one
fide, and none on the other; but lay a three
quarter Bat at the Quine in the ftretching courfe,
and in the Heading courfe adjoin an Header next
to the Header at the Quine, as you may fee it
done in Plate 3. Fig. 1. and 2.
Where A and B in both Figures or Diagrams,
repreſents a Brick and half Wall, having an up-
right Quine at A, and a Toothing at B, and the
Prick Lines reprefents the Courfe of Bricks laid
upon the other courfe; fo in Fig. 1. the black
Lines next you are an heading courfe, and the
Prick-lines next you, fhew a Stretching courfe:
And on the further fide from you, the black
Lines fhew a ftretching courfe, and the Prick-
Lines an Heading courfe.
In which Fig. 1. is fhewn the ufual way of bad
Working, but in Fig. 2. is fhewn the true way
it fhould be wrought, to be made firm and ftrong.
Alfo in working a two Brick Wall, I would
advife in the Stretching courfes, wherein you
lay ftretching on both fides the Wall next the
Line, fo alfo to lay ftretching in the middle of
the Wall, and Clofiers next to each ſtretching
Courfe that lies next the Line, as in Fig. 3. of
Plate 3. you may ſee.
$ 3
Where
262
BRICKLAYERS WORK.
}
Where the Diagram or Fig. A B, fignifies a
two Brick Wall, A being an upright Quine, and
B the Toothing, in which, the black lines repre-
fent the ftretching courfe, and the Prickt Lines
the Heading courfe, that lies upon the ſtretching
courfe: In a two Brick Wall if you lay a clofier
next the upright Quine on both fides of the Wall,
it makes good bond.
Tenthly, In Summer time ufe your Morter as
foft as you can, but in the Winter time pretty
ftiff or hard.
Eleventhly, If you build in the City of Lon
don, you muit make all your Walls of fuch
thickneſſes as the Act of Parliament for rebuild-
ing of the faid City enjoyns, but in other places
Diſcretion.
you may uſe your
And becauſe the Act of Parliament may not be
in every Builders hands, I will therefore Incert fo
much of it as relates to Bricklayers Work, to
wit, the Heights and number of Stories, and the
Thickness of Walls of the four feveral forts of
Buildings, which is as follows.
And be it further Enacted, That the faid
Houſes of the Firſt and leaſt fort of Building
Fronting by Streets or Lanes, as aforefaid, fhall
be of two Stories high, befides Cellars and Gar-
rats; That the Cellars thereof 6 Foot and an
half high, if the Springs of Water hinder not;
and the First Story be 9 Foot high from the Floor
to the Seeling; and the fecond Story 9 Foot high
from the Floor to the Seeling; that all Walls in
Front and Reer as high as the firft Story, be of
the full thickneſs of the length of two Bricks,
and thence upwards to the Garrats of the thick-
nefs
BRICK LATERS WORK.
263
nefs of one Brick and an half; and that the thick-
neſs of the Garrat Walls on the back part, be
left to the Diſcretion of the Builder, fo that the
Tame be not lefs than the length of one Prick;
and alſo that the thickneſs of the party Walls
between theſe Houſes of the Firft and leffer fort
of Building, be one Brick and as high as the
faid Garrats, and that the thickneſs of the party
Wall in the Garrat, be of the thicknefs of the
length of one Brick at the leaft.
点
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о
And be further Enacted, That the Houfes of
the fecond fort of Building fronting Streets and
Lanes of Note, and the River of Thames, fhall
confift of three Stories high, befides Cellars and
Garrats as aforefaid; that the Cellars thereof be
6 Foot and high, (if the Springs hinder not)
that the firſt Story contain full 10 Foot in height
from the Floor to the Seeling: The fecond full
10 Foot, the third 9 Foot; that all the faid
Walls in Front and Reer, as high as the firſt
Story, be two Bricks and thick, and from
thence upwards to the Garrat Floor, of one
Brink and thick; and the thickness of the
Garrat Walls on the back part be left to the dif
creation of the Builder, fo that the fame be not
leſs than one Brick thick: And alfo that the
thickneſs of the party-walls between every Houſe
of this fecond, and larger fort of Building, be
two Bricks thick as high as the firft Story, and
thence upwards to the Garrats, of the thickneſs
of one Brick and .
I
Alfo, that the Houfes of the third fort of
Buildings, fronting the high and principle Streets,
fhall confiſt of 4 Stories high, hefides Cellars
and Garrats as aforefaid: That the firft Story
contain full 10 foot in height from the Floor to
the Seeling; the fecond 10 foot and the third
9 foot;
S 4
ร
264
BRICKLAYERS WORK.
2
2
*
9 foot; the fourth 8 foot and: That all the
faid Walls in Front and Reer, as high as the firſt
Story, be of two Bricks and in thickneſs, and
from thence upwards to the Garrat Floor, of
the thickness of one Brick: That the thickneſs
of the Garrat Walls on the back part be left to
the diſcretion of the Builder, fo as the fame be
not less than one Brick: And alſo that the Party-
walls between every Houfe, of this third and
larger fort of Building, be two Bricks thick as
high as the first Floor, and thence upwards to
Garrat Floor, the I Brick in thickneſs.
And, Be it further Enacted, That all Houfes of
the fourth fort of Building, being Manfion Houſes,
and of the greatest bigness, not fronting upon any
of the Streets or Lanes as aforefaid; the number of
Stories, and the Height thereof, fhall be left to the
difcretion of the Builder, fo as he exceeds not four
Stories.
Alfo, the fame A&t enjoins, That no Timber
be laid within 12 Inches of the forefide of the
Chimny Jambs; and that all Joyfts on the back
of any Chimny be laid with a Trimmer, at fix
Inches diftant from the back: Alfo, that no
Timber be laid within the Tunnel of any Chim-
ny, upon penalty to the Workman for every De-
fault ten Shillings, and ten Shillings every week
it continues unreform'd.
Twelfthly, When you lay any Timber on Brick-
work, as Torfels for Mantle-Trees to lye on,
or Lintols over Windows, or Templets under
Girders, or any other Timbers, lay them in Loam,
which is a great preferver of Timber, for Mor-
ter eats and corrodes the Timber: Likewiſe the
Joyft ends, and Girders which lye in the Walls,
muſt be Loamed all over, to preferve them from
the
Plate 4.
Pag.265.
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Scale of Feet and Inches, 20
2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
1
20
BRICKLATERS WORK.
265
the corroding of the Morter. Some Workmen
pitch the ends of the Timber that lye in the
Walls to preferve them from the Morter.
In the next place you fhall have the Ground Plat of
a Building, and its Explanation.
'N Plate 4, you have the Draught of a Ground
Plat of a Building, which is 25 Feet, both
in the Front and Reer Front; and 40 Feet in
the Flank or Depth: The Front and Reer Front
Walls, are 2 Bricks and in thicknefs; the Flank
Walls are 2 Bricks in thickneſs, as you may
prove by the Scale of Feet and Inches annext to
the Defign.
You may imagine this Defign to be the
Ground Floor, having no Cellar beneath it:
And the height of the Story between the Floor
and the Seeling to be 10 Foot; and becauſe we
do fuppofe this Building to have Houfes adjoin-
ing it on each fide, therefore we have drawn the
Stair-cafe with an open Nuel to give light to
the Stairs; but if the Houfe had ftood by it
felf, without other Houfes adjoyning, then we
might have had light to the Stairs from the Flank
Wall.
Explanation of the Defign.
F. The Front.
R. Reer Front.
B. Flank Walls.
A. Piers of Brick.
W. Windows of Timber.
D. Door-cafes of Timber.
O. Chimneys.
C. Jambs of Chimneys.
H. Open
266
BRICK LATERS WORR
H. Open Nuel to give light to the Stairs.
K. Cloffets.
L. A Brick and half Wall between the Clof-
fets.
a. Funnels or Tunnels of Chimneys.
1. 2. 3. 4, &c. Steps of Stairs called Fliers.
8. 9. 10, &c. Steps of Stairs called Winders.
e. Timber Partitions.
The Scale contains 32 Feet, with a Diagonal
Line to fhew the Inches in a Foot: For Exam-
ple, if you would take of 8 Inches, take the
Interval from 8 in the Horizontal Line to the
Diagonal Line, and that is 8 Inches: From 3 in
the Horizontal Line to the Diagonal Line, is 3
Inches, and fo of the reſt.
In the next Plate you have the Orthography,
or upright of this Ground Plat, and this the
Explanation thereof, with a Scale of Feet and
Inches annext thereto,
Explanation of Plate 5.
A. The Water-Table.
B. Firft Fafcia.
C. Second Fafcia.
D. Three plain Courfes of Bricks over the
Arches.
E. Cornice.
F. Chimnies.
G. Gable-end.
H. Streight Arches.
W. Shas Frames.
S. Shas lights.
K. Door-cafe.
L. Window-Lighte over the Door.
The
Pag 266.
1
F
Plate 5
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Plate 6.
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Fig. 1.
2.
B
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Fig. 2.
A Scale of Inc. and quar. to F.
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2
2
2 3 -4 5 6 7 8
S
A Scale of Inches and quarters of an inch. to F. 4
14
2 3
4
5 6
BRICKLATERS WORK.
267
The Scale of Feet and Inches being the fame,
as in the Ground Plat of Plate 4. I need not fay
any thing concerning it, becauſe I have there
Thewn the uſe of it.
And although I have in this Defign, drawn
the Fafcias plain without any Mouldings, yet
fometimes they are made with Mouldings, which
Thew very neat and handfome, I have therefore
in Plate 6. given you a Defign of a Brick Fafcia,
wrought with Mouldings, in which Defign
S. Is Scima reverfa.
O. Joints of Morter.
P. Plain Courſes.
A. Aftragal.
B. Ovolo, or Boltel, reverfed.
In the fame Plate, you have the defign of a
Brick Cornice, and the Names of the Mouldings,
are
A. Scima recta, or Ogee:
O. Joint of Morter.
B. Scima reverfa, or Scimatium.
C. Corona, or Plancheer.
D. Ovolo, or Boltel.
E. Cavetto, or Cafement.
In which Cornice, the Corona, or Plancheer,
ought (according to the Rules of Architecture)
to Sail over, or project more, but the length of
a Brick being but about 8 Inches when its head
is rubbed for hewing, it will not hang, if it fail
over, more than is fhewn in the Draught, which
is about 3 Inches and an half. But if you would
make it to project more, then you muſt Ce-
ment pieces to the ends of your bricks for tail-
ing
268
BRICK LATERS WORK
ing, or to make them longer: Of which Ce-
ment there is two forts, one is called cold Ce-
ment, and the other is hot, the making and ufe
whereof, we will fhew towards the latter end.
To defcribe Mouldings on Wainscot, or Paftboard,
for Patterns, to cut Bricks by.
There are two ways to defcribe the Hollows,
and rounds of Moulding in Fafcias, or Corni-
ces; one from the oxi, or oxigonium, the other
from the half round, or Semicircle, that makes
the Moulding flatter, this more circular; I will
ſhew both ways, and then you may make uſe of
which you pleaſe.
First, We will defcribe a Cavetto, or Cafe-
ment, both ways.
In Plate 7. the Fig. 1. is deſcribed from the
oxi, in this manner, having allowed the proje
Eture of the Moulding at the bottom, and the
Fillet at top, draw the Line a b, then with the
Compaffes taking the interval a b, place one
point of the Compaffes in a, and with the other
defcribe the Arch dd, then with one Foot in b,
with the other deſcribe the Arch cc, and where
theſe two Arches interfect each other, there is
the Center to defcribe the Cavetto; then fixing
one Foot in the Center, extend the other to a or
b, and defcribe the Arch a g b.
You may defcribe it from a Semicircle thus:
In Fig. 2. having allowed the Projecture at bot-
tom, and the Fillet at top, as before, draw the
Line a b, bifect, or middle it, as at c, then up-
on c as a center, with the Interval ca, or cb,
deſcribe the Semicircle a db, and bifect it in d
which is the Center to defcribe the Cavetto, or
Cafement by, then fixing one point of the Com-
paffes
}
Pag-263.
Fig.
2
Plate 7
Fig. 2.
a
Fig. 3
dia
C
h
с
d
Z
C'
TI
A
B
1
d
Fig. 4.
Fry. 5.
b
屋
​TIT
h
G
C
C
Fig. 6.
D
Ꭰ .
G
H
Af-t
Fig. 7.
K
E
I'
it-B
I
A
B
E
C
F
D
BRICK LATERS WORK.
269
1
paffes in 2, extend the other to a or b, and de-
fcribe the Arch a g b.
To defcribe the Scima Recta, or Ogee,
both ways.
Fig. 3. is defcribed by the Oxi in this man
ner, having allowed the Fillet at top af, draw
the Line a b, and bife&t it, that is, part it in
the middle in e; then with your Compaffes take
the Interval e b, and fixing one point in e, with
the other deſcribe the Arch cc, then with the
fame Interval, or diſtance, fixing one point in
, with the other, defcribe the Arch dd, and
where theſe two Arches Interfect, or cut each
other, there is the Center to difcribe the round,
or lower part of the Ogee, to wit, ebb: Then
fixing one point of the Compaffes on the Inter-
Tection by 2, extend the other to b, or e, and
defcribe the Arch ebb: Then to defcribe the
Hollow, or upper part of the Ogee, take with
your Compaffes the Diſtance, or Interval e a,
and fixing one point in e, with the other defcribe
the Arch cc, then keeping the Compaffes, at
the fame diftance, fix one foot in a, and with
the other deſcribe the Arch dd, interfecting the
other Arch in g: Then fixing one Foot in g, ex-
tend the other to e or a, and defcribe the Arch
eba, which compleats the Scima recta, or O-
gee.
To
290
BRICKLATERS WORK
To defcribe the fame Ogee by a Semicircles
Fig. 4.
1. After you have allowed the Fillet af, draw
the Line a b.
2. Bifect the Line in s.
3. Bifect e b and sa, as at c c.
4. On the Center c. with the Interval ca, de
fcribe the Semicircle s da.
5. Middle it, as at d.
6. Fixing one point in d. extend the other to
or s, and deſcribe the Arch a b s.
7. On the Center c, with the diſtance cb, de-
fcribe the Semicircle b d s.
8. Middle it, as at d.
9. Fix one Foot in d, and extend the other to
b or s.
10. Defcribe the Arch bbs, which compleats
the Scima Recta, or Ogee; and after either of
theſe ways, which you like beft, you may de-
fcribe any other Moulding.
And becauſe many times Bricklayers make
Archytrave Jambs and Arches, about Windows
and Door-cafes in a Front, I will therefore de-
lineat an Archytrave to be cut in the length of
a Brick; which is moft ufual, although you may
make your Archytrave larger, and cut it in the
length of one Brick and an half.
In Plate 7. Fig. 5. you have Delineated the
Ground Plat of an Archytrave Jamb, to be cut
in the length of a Brick, which fuppofe to be
FG, and alfo Imagine FEG to be a Stretcher,
or a Stretching Archytrave: Alfo you may un-
derſtand the deſign to be divided in the middle
by the two Prick Lines on each fide E, which
repreſents a Joint of Morter, and imagining it
to
}
C
G
Pag.271.
F
L
Plate. 8. D
B
K
D
Fig. 3.
1
A
E
•
L
·
B
E
H
F
Fig.5.
Ꮐ
Fig. 4.
E:
A
•
BRICKLATERS WORK.
271
to be thus divided; then EF is called a Header;
or a heading Archytrave, and EG is called a
Jak.
Here follows the Names of the feveral parts of
the Archytrave.
A. Fillet.
B. Scima.
C. Upper Fafcia.
D. Lower Fafcia.
I did intend here to have added fomething
about the Arching of Vaults, but intending,
God willing, to treat largely of the Defcription
of all manner of Arches, and making of Moulds,
or Patterns, to cut them by, when I come to
exercife in Mafonry, which will fucceed this: I
fhall therefore omit fpeaking of Vaults in this
Exercife.
I fhall now in the next place fhew how to de-
fcribe any Ellipfis Arch in Brick, and make
the Moulds, as alfo to defcribe ftreight Arches,
and make the Moulds for the fame.
!
To defcribe an Oval to any Length and
Breadth given.
An Ellipfis Arch is an half Oval: Therefore in
Plate 8. Fig. 1. let the length given be AB, and
the Breadth CD.
Apply the two given Lines together, fo that
they may cut each other into two equal parts,
and at right angles in the point E, then take
half the line A B, between your Compaffes, and
fetting one point of the Compaffes in C, extend
the other till it touch the line A B, in K and L,
which
272 BRICK LATERS WORK.
which two points are called the Focaffes, or
burning points, in which points drive two Nails,
if you defcribe it on Boards, but upon Paper,
as here two Pins will do, the Pins being ftuck
faft in the points K and L, ftick alfo another
Pin in the Point C, then take a Thread, and
Encompass thefe 3 Pins in form of a Triangle,
pulling the Thread tight, tye the two ends of
the Thread together, by a knot at C, then ta-
king out the Pin at C, take a Pencil´of Black-
Lead, holding it clofe to the infide of the
Thread, and carrying the Pencil round upon the
Paper, about the Pins, with the Thread al-
ways ftreight, the Ellipfis or Oval ACBD, will
be thereby defcribed.
Another way to defcribe the fame.
Here I fhall only defcribe a Semi-Oval, being an
Ellipfis Arch.
In Fig. 2. let the length given be A B, and
the Semidiameter or height of the Arch CD;
Divide A B into feven equal parts, then upon
one feventh part from A as at E, raiſe a Perpen-
dicular from the Line AB, (viz. E G.) alfo at
one ſeventh part from B, as at F, raife another
Perpendicular FH; then divide the Semidiame-
ter given CD, into 15 equal Parts, and take
Eleven of thofe Parts, and fet upon the Perpen-
dicular from E to G, and likewife from F to H;
then taking the ſpace between A and G, fetting
one point of the Compaffes in A, defcribe the
Arch Gi, keeping the Compaffes at the fame
diſtance, fet one point in G, and defcribe ano-
ther Arch, which will cut the former in the
point by i, from which point, with the Radi
us Ai
BRICKLATERS WORK. 273
us Ai, deſcribe the Hanfe AG; this being done,
take between your Compaffes the fpace B H,
and fetting one point in B, defcribe the arch Ii,
then remove your Compaffes to H, and interfect
that Arch in the point by i, then fetting your
Compaffes on the point i, with the fame di-
ftance, defcribe a part of the Ellipfis B H, which
is called the Hanfe: The other part to be de-
ſcribed from G to H, is called the Scheam, which
to deſcribe, continue or draw longer the Semi-
diameter DC, and in that line find a Center,
whereon fetting one point of the Compaffes,
the other point may touch the three points
GDH, as on the Center I; whereby defcribe
the Scheam G D H, which was to be done.
Thefe Ellipfis, or Semi-Oval Arches, being
neatly wrought in Brick, fhew very pleaſant,
and are fometimes made over Gate-ways, and
alfo over Kitchin-Chimnies, inſtead of Mantle-
trees.
We will ſuppoſe an Ellipfis Arch to be made
over a Chimny, whofe Diameter between the
Jambs is eight feet, and the under fide of the
Arch at the Key to riſe in height 18 Inches from
the level of the place, whence you begin to
Spring the Arch; the height or depth of the
Arch we will fuppofe to be made of the length
of two Bricks, which when they are cut to the
fweep of the Arch, will not contain above 14
Inches, and perhaps you muſt Cement pieces to
many of the Courfes in the Hanſe to make them
long enough to contain, or hold 14 Inches, efpe-
cially if you intend to make the Courſes of the
Hanfe, and the Courſes of the Scheam to ſeem
alike in greatneſs, on the under fide of the Sron:
For if you make the Hanfe to come to a true
Sommering for the Scheam, by that time that
T
you
274
BRICKLAYERS WORK
you have ended the Hanfe, and are ready to fet
the firft Courſes of the Scheam: The Mould,
and fo likewife each Courfe in the Hanfe, will
be much lefs at the lower part, or under fide
of the Arch, than the Mould, or Courfes of
the Scheam, as you may perceive by the Hanfe
BK, in the 3d. Fig. which way of working
thefe kind of Arches is ftronger, than to make
the Courſes feem alike in bignefs in Hanfe and
Scheam, although it be not fo pleafing to the
eye. In the 3d. Fig. I will fhew how to make
one half of the Arch this way, and in the o-
ther half ſhew how to make the Courfes in
Hanfe and Scheam of a bignefs.
First, Defcribe the under fide of the Arch,
(viz. the Ellipfis A D B, whofe Diameter A B
is eight feet, and the height CD 18 Inches)
upon fome fimooth Floor, or ftreight plaiftered
Wall, or fuch like; then continue (viz. draw
longer) both the lines A B, CD, cutting each
other at right Angles, then from A to E, alfo
from B to F, likewife from D to G, fet 14
Inches, the intended height of your Arch. Then
defcribe another Ellipfis to that length and height,
after this manner; lay a ftreight Ruler on the
Centre by I, and on the joining of the Hanfe,
and the Scheam together, as at K, and draw
the line K L, then fet one point of your Com-
paffes in the centre of the Hanfe at M, and open
the other point of the Compaffes to F, and de-
fcribe the upper Hanfe F L, likewife fetting one
point of the Compaffes in the centre by I, with
the other extended to G, defcribe the Scheam
GL, (although I fpeak here of Compaffes,
yet when you defcribe an Arch to its full big-
nefs, you muſt make uſe of centre Lines or
Rues
BRICKLAYERS WORK. 275
}
Rules; the laft are beft, becaufe Lines are fub-
ject to ftretch) then taking between your Com
paffes the thickneſs of a Brick, abating fome
Imall matter which will be rub'd off from both
beds of the Brick; with the Compaffes at this
diſtance divide the upper Hanfe from L to F
into equal parts, and if they happen not to di-
vide it into equal parts, then open them a
fmall matter wider, or fhut them a fmall mat-
ter cloſer, till it doth divide it into equal parts,
and look how many equal parts you divide
the upper Hanfe into, fo many equal parts you
muft divide the lower Hanfe from K to B into
likewifewife (or you may divide the upper
Hanfe from the centre O, making a right An-
gle from each fommering Line to the Ellipfis,
as is fhewn in defcribing the ftreight Arches fol-
lowing; and from the centre O, and the Di-
vifions in the upper Hanfe being thus divided,
you may draw the ftreight Lines to the lower
Hanfe, and not divide it with the Compaffes)
through each of which divifions with a Rule,
and Pencil, draw ftreight lines, then get a piece
of thin Wainscot, and make it to fit between two
of thefe Lines, allowing what thickness for
Morter you intend, this will be the Sommering
Mould for the Hanfe; then divide the upper
Scheam likewife, with the Compaffes at the
fame diftance into equal parts, and laying a
Ruler on the centre I, from each Divifion in the
Scheam G L, draw ftreight Lines to the lower
Scheam DK, then make another Sommering
Mould to fit between two of thefe Lines, aba-
ting ſo much as you intend the thickneſs of your
Joints of Morter to be, which if you fet very
clofe Morters, the breadth of the Line will be
enough to allow; then laying the inner Edge of
a Be-
T 3
278
BRICKLATERS WORK.
a Bevil ftreight on the line KL, bring the
Tongue to touch the under fide of the firft
Courſe of the Scheam, then take up the Be-
vil, and fet that Bevil line upon the Sommering
Mould of the Scheam; which Bevil line ferves
for each Courfe in the Scheam; but you muſt
take the Bevil of each Courfe in the Hanfe,
and fet them upon your Sommering Mould by
themſelves, and Number them with 1, 2, 3, 4,
&c. becaufe each Courſe varies.
Thus having made your Sommering Moulds,
in the next place you muſt make the Moulds
for the length of your Stretchers, and for the
breadth of the Headers and the Clofiers; a
piece of Wainſcot ſeven Inches long, and three
Inches and an half broad will ferve for the
length of the Stretchers, and the breadth of
the Headers, the Clofiers will be 1 Inch and 2.
broad. So the Clofier will be half the breadth
of the Header, and the Header half the length
of the Stretcher, which will look well.
4
It remains now to fpeak fomething to the
other part of the Arch, to wit, A D, whofe
Courfes both in Hanfe and Scheam, run alike
upon the Ellipfis Lines, and feem of one big-
nefs, although perhaps there may be fome fmall
matter of difference, by reafon I have not di-
vided the Courfes to this Figure, from a right
Angle, but every Courfe from the Angle, which
it makes with the Ellipfis, which I chofe rather
to do, that fo the Bevil of one Courſe, might
not feem to run more upon the Ellipfis than
the Bevil of another, and the difference of
the thickneffes being fo inconfiderate, is not
difcerned.
Having
BRICK LATERS WORK
277
Having defcribed both the Ellipfis lines A D,
EG, divide each of them into a like number
of equal parts, always remembring to make
each Divifion on the upper Ellipfis line, no grea-
ter than the thickneſs of the Brick will contain,
when it is wrought; then through each Divifi-
on in both the Ellipfes draw ftreight lines; con-
tinuing them four or five Inches above the up-
per Ellipfis Line, and as much below the low-
er Ellipfis Line, then having provided_fome
thin Sheets of fine Paftboard about 20 Inches
fquare, cutting one edge ftreight, take one ſheet.
and lay the ftreight edge even upon the line
A E, fo that it may cover both the Ellipfis
lines, and being cut to advantage, it may cover
eight courfes (or nine of the ftreight Lines)
having laid it thus upon the figure of the
Arch, ftick a Pin, or two, through it, to keep
it in its place; then lay a Ruler upon the Paff-
board true to the 7, 8, or 9th. ftreight Line of
the Arch, according as the Paft-board is in big-
nefs to cover them, and take a fharp Pen-knife,
laying the Ruler upon the Paft-board true to
the ftreight Line (whofe ends being continued
longer than the Arch is deep, as I directed be-
fore, will be feen beyond the Paſt-board) and
cut the Paft-board true to the Line, then take
another ſheet, and join to it, and cut it as
you did the firſt, fo continue till you have co-
vered the Arch from A E, juft to the line
DG, ſticking Pins in each Sheet to keep them
in the places where you lay them: Then de-
fcribe both the Ellipfis Lines upon the Paft-
board, from the fame Centres and Radii that
you deſcribed the Ellipfis's under the Paft-board,
and either divide the Ellipfis Lines with the
Compaffes on the Paft-board, or elfe draw lines
T 3
upon
278
BRICKLATERS WORK.
upon the Paft-board from or by the ftreight
lines underneath them whofe ends you fee;
but the furer way is to divide the Ellipfis's on
the Paft-board, and draw Lines through thofe
Divifions, as you did beneath the Paft-board;
then fet feven Inches, being the length of each
Stretcher, from A towards E, and from D to-
wards G, and defcribe from the former Centres,
the Ellipfis o o through each other courfe on
the Paft-board, as you may fee in the Fig.
alfo fet three Inches and an half, being the
breadth of the Header, from A towards E, and
and likewife from D towards G: Alfo fet the
fame three Inches and an half from E towards
A, and from G towards D, and defcribe theſe
two Ellipfis lines from the fame Centres thro'
each Courfe, which the Ellipfis line of the
Stretchers miſs'd; likewife draw in the 'fame
Courſes, two other Ellipfis lines, one Inch and
2 from each of thofe two Lines you drew laft,
which is the breadth of the Clofiers; thus one
Coufe of the Arch will be divided into two
Stretchers, and the next to it into three Headers
and two Clofiers through the whole Arch; this
being done, cut the Paft-board according to the
lines into feveral Courfes, and each other Courfe
into two Stretchers, and the Heading-courfes
into three Headers, and two Clofiers, exactly
according to the Sweep of the Black-lead lines,
and mark each Courfe with Figures, marking
the first Courfe of the Hanfe with 1, the next
with 2, the third with 3, and fo continue till
you have marked all the Courſes to the Key,
or middle, for every Courſe differs; you were
best to mark the lower Clofier in each courfe
with a Cipher on the left hand of its own num-
ber, that you may know it readily from the
upper
BRICKLATERS WORK. 279
upper Clofier, and make no miſtakes when you
come to fet them; alfo the middle Headers in
each Courſe ſhould be marked befides its own
number; the thickness of the upper Header
being eafily difcerned from the lower Header
needs no marking befides its own number; the
crofs Joints, and likewife the under fide and
upper fide of each Courfe must be cut circu-
lar, as the Paft-boards which are your Moulds
direct you.
If you will add a Keyftone, and Chaptrels
to the Arch, as in the Figure, let the breadth
of the upper part of the Keyftone be the height
of the Arch, viz. 14 Inches, and Sommer,
from the Centre at I, then make your Chap-
trels the fame thickneſs that your lower part
of the Keystone is, and let the Keystone break
without the Arch, fo much as you project or
Sale over the Jaums with the Chaptrels.
Other kind of Circular Arches, as half Rounds
and Scheams, being defcribed from one Centre,
are fo plain and eafy, that I need fay nothing
concerning them: But fince Streight Arches are
much uſed, and many Workmen know not the
true way of defcribing them, I fhall write fome-
thing briefly concerning them. Streight Arches
are ufed generally over Windows and Doors,
according to the breadth of the Piers between
the Windows, fo ought the Skew-back or Som-
mering of the Arch to be; for if the Piers be
of a good breadth, as three or four Bricks in
length, then the Streight Arch may be defcribed
(as its vulgarly faid) from the Oxi, which be-
ing but part of a Word, is taken from the word
Oxigonium, fignifying an Equilateral Triangle,
T 4
with
280
BRICKLATERS WORK.
with three ſharp Angles; but if the Piers are
fmall, as fometimes they are but the length of
two Bricks, and fometimes but one Brick and
an half, then the breadth of the Window, or
more, may be fet down upon the middle Line
for the Centre, which will give a lefs Skew-
back, or Sommering, than the centre from an
Oxi. I will fhew how to defcribe them both
ways, and firft from the Oxi.
Suppofe a Streight Arch, one Brick and an
half in height, to be made over a Window, 4
feet in width. [ See Fig. 4.] wherein one half
[See
of the Arch is defcribed from the Oxi, and the
other half from the width of the Window, let
the width of the Window be A B, taking the
width between the Compaffes, from A and B
as two Centres, defcribe the two Arches, inter-
fecting each other at P, (though I fpeak here
of Compaffes, yet when you defcribe the Arch
to its full bignefs, you muft ufe a Ruler, or a
Line, fcarce any Compaffes being to be got
large enough.) Then draw another Line above
the line A B, as the line CD, being parallel
to it, at fuch a height as you intend your
Arch to be, as in this Fig. at 12 Inches; but
moft commonly thefe fort of Arches are but
11 Inches in the height, or thereabouts, which
anſwers to four Courfes of Bricks, but you
may make them more or lefs in height accor-
ding as occafion requires; then laying a Ruler
on the centre P, and on the end of the line
A, draw the line A C, which is vulgarly called
the Shew-back for the Arch.
The next thing to be done, is to divide thoſe
two lines A B and C D into fo many Courſes
As
BRICKLATERS WORK.
281
as the Arch will contain; the thickness of a
Brick being one of them, which fome do by
dividing the upper line into fo many equal parts,
and from thofe parts, and from the Centre P
draw the Sommering Lines or Courſes; others
divide both the upper and lower line into fo ma-
ny equal parts, and make no ufe of a Centre.
but draw the Courfes by a Ruler, being laid
from the Divifions on the upper line, to the
Divifions on the lower line, both which ways
are falfe and erroneous; [but this by way of
caution.]
Having drawn the Skew-back A C, take be-
tween your Compaffes the thickneſs that a Brick
will contain, which I fuppofe to be two Inches
when it is rub'd, and fetting one point of the
Compaffes on the line C D. So that when
you
turn the other Point about, it may juft touch
the line AC in one place, and there make a
Prick in the line CD, but do not draw the
Sommering lines until you have gone over half
the Arch, to fee how you come to the Key, or
middle, and if you happen to come juft to
the middle line, or want an Inch of it, then
you may draw the lines, but if not, then you
muft open, or fhut the Compaffes a little till
you do.
Then keeping one end of the Rule clofe to
the Centre at P. (the fureft way is to ftrike a
fmall Nail in the Centre P. and keep the Rule
clofe to the Nail) lay the other end of the
Rule cloſe to the Prick that you made on the
line CD, keeping the Compaffes at the fame
width (viz. two Inches) fet one point of the
Compaffes on the line CD, as before, fo that
the
282
BRICK LATERS WORK.
the other Point being turned about, may just
pafs by the Rule; and as it were touch it in
one place; (you muſt remove the point of the
Compaffes upon the line C D, farther or near-
er to the Rule, until it juſt touch the Rule in
one place,) and fo continue with the Rule and
Compaffes, until you come to the middle line,
and if it happen, that your laſt ſpace want an
Inch of the middle, then the middle of the
Key-courſe will be the middle of the Arch,
and the number of the Courfes in the whole
Arch will be odd, but if the laft fpace happen
to fall juft upon the middle line E F, as it
doth in the Fig. then the Joint is the middle
of the Arch, (but if it fhould happen neither
to come even to the line, nor want an Inch of
it, then you muft open or fhut the Compaffes
a fmall matter, and begin again till it doth
come right) and the number of the Courfes
in the whole Arch, is an even Number.
Note, When the number of all the Courfes
in the Arch, is an even Number, then you muft
begin the two fides contrary, viz. A Header to
be the lower Brick of the firft Courfe on one
fide (or half) of the Arch, and a Stretcher
the lower Brick of the firft Courfe on the other
fide (or half) of the Arch: And contrariwife,
if it happen that the Number of the Couries
be an odd Number, as 25 or 27, or fuch like,
then the first Courfes of each half of the Arch,
muſt be alike, that is, either both Headers, or
both Stretchers, at the bottom.
Thus having defcribed the Arch, the next
thing to be done, is to make the Sommering
Mould, which to do, get a piece of thin Wain-
Scot
BRICKLATERS WORK.
283
fcot (being ftreight on one edge, and having
one fide plained ſmooth, to fet the Bevil ftrokes
upon) about 14 Inches long, and any breadth
above two Inches, then laying your Ruler, one
end at the Centre P, and the other end even in
the Skew-back line, clap the ftreight edge of
the Wainscot cloſe to the Rule, ſo that the low-
er end of the Wainſcot may lye a little below
the line AB, then take away the Centre Rule,
but ftir not the Wainfcot; and laying a Ruler
upon the Wainſcot juft over the line Č D, ftrike
a line upon the Wainscot, then fet one Point
of the Compaffes being at the width of a Courfe
(viz. two Inches) upon that line, fo that the
other Point being turned about, may juft touch
the ftreight edge of the Wainſcot; (as you did
before in dividing the Courfes) then make a
Prick on the line on the Wainfcot, and laying
your Centre Rule upon it, and on the Cen-
tre P, draw a line upon the Wainfcot by the
Ruler, with a Pencil, or the Point of a Com-
pafs, and cut the Wainfcot to that line, and
make it ftreight by fhooting it with a Plain,
then your Wainfcot will fit exactly between
any two lines of the Arch; you may let it
want the thickneſs of one of the lines, or fomc
fmall matter more, which is enough for the
thickneſs of a Mortar; the length of your
Stretcher in this Arch, may be 8 Inches and
and the Header 3 Inches and, but if your Arch
be but II Inches in height, then make your
Stretcher 7 Inches and long, and the Header
3 Inches; one piece of Wainſcot will ferve
both for the length of the Stretcher, and the
length of the Header, making it like a long
fquare or Oblong, whofe fides are 8 Inches
and 3 Inches and . Then take a Bevil, and lay-
3.
49
49
ing
284
BRICK LATERS WORK.
ing the inner edge of it ftreight with the line
A B, and the Angle of the Bevil juft over the
Angle at A, take off the Angle that the Skew-back
line A C makes with the line A B, and fet it
upon the ſmoothed fide of your Sommering
Mould, for the Bevil ftroke of your firſt Course;
then drawing your Bevil towards E, ftreight in
the line, until the Angle of the Bevil be juft
over the Angle, that the fecond Sommering line
makes with the line A B; when it is fo, draw
the Tongue of the Bevil to lye even upon the
fecond Sommering line; (in brief, caufe the
Bevil to lye exactly on the line AB, and on
the fecond Sommering line) then take up your
Bevil and lay it on the Mould, and ſtrike that
Bevil line on the Mould, with the Point of the
Compaffes, about half a quarter of an Inch
diſtant from the firft, and that is the Bevil of
the underfide of the fecond Courfe; proceed
thus until you come to the middle line E F
but after you have fet three Bevil lines upon
your Sommering Mould, leave about of an
İnch between the third and the fourth, and fo
likewiſe between the 6th and 7th, and the 9th,
and 10th, which will be a great help to you,
in knowing the Number of each line on the
Mould.
4
The Moulds for the other half of the Arch,
namely E B, are made after the fame manner,
but but the Arch is deſcribed from a Centre
beneath P, as Q which caufeth a lefs Skew-
back (viz. B. D. )
The diminiſhing of the Sommering Mould
to any Skew-back may be found by the Rule of
Three, by dividing a foot into 10 equal parts,
and
BRICKLATERS WORK 285
and each of theſe into 10 parts, ſo that the
whole foot may contain 100 parts, then pro-
ceed thus. The upper line CF, will be 309,
that is three Feet and almoft one Inch, and the
lower line A E will be 252, that is two Feet
and an half an,, and the upper part of the
Sommering Mould will be 17 almoft, that is,
two Inches of fuch whereof there are 12 in a
foot line meaſure; having theſe three Numbers
(viz. 209, 252, 17.) work according to the
Rule of Three, and you will find 13 and of
100 parts, that is almoft 14 (fuch parts where-
of there are 100 in a Foot line meaſure) for
the breadth of the lower part of the Mould.
Tau may likewife find it Geometrically thus,
I
Having drawn the upper line and under line
of the Arch, as CF, and A E, and drawn
any Skew-back, as fuppofe A C in [Fig. 4.]
make at difcretion the Angle G C H in [Fig.s.]
then take the upper line CF, and fet it from
C. to F; alfo take the lower line A E, and fet
it from C to E, and draw the line E F; then
take the thickneſs of your Brick, which fuppofe
to be two Inches, and fet it from F to G, and
draw G H, parallel to F E, I fay F G is the
breadth of the upper part of the Sommering
Mould, and E H the breadth of the lower part:
Then make your Sommering Mould true to thoſe
two lines, and beginning in the middle line F E
defcribe the ftreight lines by the Mould from
the Key FE, until you come to the Skew-
back AC, and then take of the Bevil lines, and
fet them on your Sommering Mould,
I shall
286 BRICK LATERS WORE
I fhall conclude this Exercife with the Art of ma-
king two forts of Cements, for the Cementing
Bricks.
Here are two forts of Cement, which fome
Bricklayers ufe in Cementing of Bricks for
fome kind of Mouldings, or in Cementing a
block of Ericks, as they call it, for the Carving
of Scroles or Capitals or fuch like, &c. One is
called cold Cement, the other is called hot Ce-
ment, becauſe the former is made and uſed with-
out Fire, but the latter is both made and uſed
with Fire; the cold Cement being accounted
a Secret, is known but to few Bricklayers, but
the hot Cement is common.
TAK
To make the cold Cement.
Ake a Pound of Old Cheſhire-Cheeſe, pair
&
of the Rine, and throw it away, cut or
grate the Cheeſe very fmall, and put it into a
Pot, put to it about a Pint of Cows-milk, let it
ftand all Night, the next Morning get the Whites
of 12 or 14 Eggs, then take a Pound of the
beft Unflackt or Quick Lime that you can get,
and beat it to Powder in a Morter, then fift ir
through a fine Hair Sieve into a Tray or Bole
of Wood, or into an Earthen Difh, to which
put the Cheeſe and Milk, and ftir them well.
together with a Trowel, or fuch like thing,
breaking the Knots of Cheeſe, if there be any,
then add the Whites of the Eggs, and Temper
all well together, and fo uſe it; this Cement
will be a White Colour, but if you would have
it of the Colour of the Brick, put into it either
fome very fine Brick-Duft, or Almegram, nor
too much, but only juſt to colour it,
T
BRICKLAYERS WORK.
287
!
To make the bot Cement.
Ake one Pound of Rozin, one Quarter of a
Pound of Bees-Wax, half an Ounce of
fine Brick-Duft, half an Ounce of Chalk-Duft,
or Powder of Chalk, fift both the Brick-Duft
and Chalk-Duſt through a fine Hair Sieve, (you
may beat the Brick and the Chalk in a Morter,
before you fift it) boil altogether in a Pipkin,
or other Veffel, about a quarter of an hour, ſtir-
ting it all the while with an Iron or a piece of
Lath or fuch like, then take it of, and let it
tand 4 or 5 Minutes, and 'tis fit for ufe.
Note, That the Bricks that are to be Cemen-
ted with this kind of Cement, muſt be made hot
by the Fire before you fpread the Cement on
them, and then rub them to and fro on one ano-
ther, as Joiners do, when they Glew two Boards
together.
EINI S.
Mechanick Dyalling:
TEACHING
Any Man, tho' of an Ordinary Ca-
pacity and unlearned in the Ma-
thematicks,
To Draw a True
SUN-DYAL
ON ANY
GIVEN PLANE,
However Scituated:
Only with the help of a ftraight Rale and a
pair of Compaffes; and without any Arith
metical Calculation.
The Fourth Edition.
By JOSEPH MOXON, Fellow of the
Royal Society, and Hydrographer to the late
King Charles.
LONDON:
Printed for Tho. Leigh and Dan. Midwinter, at the
Rofe and Crown in St. Paul's Church-Yard. 1703.
( 307 )
Mechanick Dyalling.
D
Defcription of Dyalling.
Yalling originally is a Mathematical Sci-
ence, attained by the Philofophical
contemplation of the Motion of the
Sun, the Motion of the Shadow, the
Conſtitution of the Sphere, the Scituation of
Planes, and the Confideration of Lines.
Explanation.
HE Motion of the Sun is reguler, it moving
in equal Space in equal Time; But the Mo-
on of the Shadow irregular, in all parts of the
Earth, unless under the two Poles, and that more
or less according to the Conftitution of the Sphere
and Scituation of the Plane. And therefore Scien-
tifick Dyaliſts by the Geometrick Confiderations
of Lines, have found out Rules, to mark out the
irregular Motion of the Shadow in all Latitudes,
and on all Planes, to Comply with the regular Mo-
tion of the Sun. And thefe Rules of adjuſting the
Motion of the Shadow to the Motion of the Sun,
may be called Scientifick Dyalling.
But though we may juftly account Dyalling ori-
ginally a Science, yet fuch have been the Generofity
of many of its ſtudious Contemplators, that they
have communicated their acquired Rules; where-
by it is now become to many of the Ingenious no
more difficult than an Art, and by many late Au-
U 2
thors
308 MECHANICK DYALLING.
thors fo Intituled: Nay more, by this fmall Trea
tife it will ſcarce be accounted more than a Manual
Operation; for, though (hitherto) all the Authors
I have met with feem to pre-fuppofe their Reader
to underſtand Geometry, and the Projecting of the
Sphere already, or elfe endeavour in their Works
to make him underſtand them, as if they were ab-
folutely neceflary to be known by every one that
would make a Dyal, when as in truth, (the Con-
templative pains of others aforefaid of confidered)
they are not; but indeed are only uſeful to thofe
that would know the reafon of Dyalling. Thus
they do not only difcourage young beginners, but
alſo diſappoint many Gentlemen and others, that
would willingly either make them themfelves, or
fet their Workmen about them, if they knew how
to make them.
This little Piece I have therefore compofed for
the help of thoſe who underſtand neither the Pro-
jection of the Sphere, or Geometrical Operations: Only,
if they know how to draw a ſtraight Line between
two points by the fide of a Ruler, deſcribe a Cir-
cle with a pair of Compaffes, erect a Perpendicu-
lar and draw one Line parallel to another, they
may know how to draw a Dyal for any given Plane,
however fcituated in any Latitude.
But perhaps theſe two laft little Tricks are not
known to all new beginners, therefore I fhall fhew
them. Firſt,
How to erect a Perpendicular. For Example, in Fig. 1.
Upon the Line A B, you would erect a Perpendi-
cular to the Point C: Place one Foot of your Com-
paffes upon the point C, and open the other to
what diſtance you pleafe: For Example, to the
point A, make there a mark; then keeping the
firft Foot ſtill in C, turn the other Foot towards B,
and make there another mark; then open your
Com-
MECHANICK DTALLING. 309
Compaffes wider, fuppofe to the length A B, and
placing one Foot in the point
A, with the other Foot de-
fcribe a finall Arch over the
point C,
Foot of your Compaſſes to
the point B, with the other
Foot defcribe another fmall
Arch, to cut the firſt Arch,
as at D. Then lay your
ſtraight Ruler to the point
where the two ſmall Arches
cut each other, and upon
the point C, and by the fide
of the Ruler draw the Line
CD, which fhall be a Per-
pendicular to the Line A B.
and removing the Fig. 1
Another way with once opening
the Compaffes, as by Fig. 2.
Draw the Line A B, and
place one Foot of your Com-
pafles upon the point you
would have the Perpendicu
lar erected, as at the Point
C, and with the other Foot
defcribe the Semi-circle A
ab B, then placing one foot
in B, extend the other foot
A
Fig. 2.
C
E
A
C
Fig. 3.
B
b
A
Fig 4
C
D
A
B
to b, in the Semi-circle; and keeping that Foot
in b, extend the other Foot to D, and make there
a finall Arch: Then remove one Foot of your
Compaffes to A, and extend the other Foot to a
in the Semi-circle, and keeping that Foot in a, ex-
tend the other to D, and make there another fmall
Arch, to cut the firſt fmall Arch; and laying a
ftraight Ruler to the point where thefe two finall
Arches cut each other, and upon the point C, draw
U 3
by
310 MECHANICK DYALLING.
by the ſide of the Ruler the Line CD, which fhall
be perpendicular to the Line A B.
To erect a Perpendicular upon the end of a Line,
as by Fig. 3.
On the point B, at one end of the Line AB,
place one Foot of your Compaflès in the point B,
and extend the other on the Line towards A, as to
b, and with it defcribe the Arch ba C; then pla-
cing one Foot in b, extend the other to a in the
Arch, and make there a mark; Divide with your
Compaſſes the Arch b a into two equal parts, and
keeping the Feet of your Compafles at that diſtance,
meaſure in the Arch from a to C, then draw a
ſtraight Line from the point C to the end of the
Line B, and that ftraight Line fhall be Perpendicu-
lar to the end of the Line A B..
To draw a Line Parallel to another Line, as by Fig. 4.
Example. If you would draw a Line parallel to
the Line A B, open your Compaſſes to the diſtance
you intend the Lines fhall ftand off each other,
and placing one Foot fucceffively near each end, de-
ſcribe with other Foot the fmall Arches CD; laya
Straight Ruler to the top of thefe Arches, and draw
a Line by the fide of it, and that Line ſhall be pa-
rallel to the Line A B.
A
Definitions.
Dyal Plane is that Flat whereon a Dyal is in-
tended to be projected.
Of Dyal Planes fome be Direct, others Decliners,
others Oblique.
· Of Direst Planes there are five forts.
1. The Horizontal whofe Plane lies flat, and is
parallel to the Horizon, beholding the Zenith.
2. The South Erect, whofe Plane ſtands upright,
and directly beholds the South.
3. The
MECHANICK DTALLING. 311
3. The North Erect, whofe Plane ftands up-
right, and directly beholds the North.
4. The Eaft Erest, whofe Plane ftands up-
right, and directly beholds the Eaft.
5. The Weft Erect, whofe Plane ftands upright
and directly beholds the Weft.
· Of Decliners there are infinite; and yet may be
reduced into thefe two Kinds.
1. The South Erect Plane, declining more or
lefs towards the East or Weft.
2. The North Erect Plane, declining more or
lefs towards the East or Weft.
Of Obligae Planes fome are Direct other Declining;
and are of four forts.
1. Direct Inclining Planes, which lean towards
you, and lie directly in the East, Weft, North, or
South quarters of Heaven.
2. Direct Reclinig Planes, which lean from you,
and lie directly in the Eaft, Weft, North or Sonth
quarters of Heaven.
3. Inclining Declining Planes, which lean to-
wards you, but lie not directly in the East, Weft,
North, or South quarters of Heaven; But decline
more or leſs from the North or South, towards the
Eaft or Weft.
4. Reclining Declining Planes, which lean from
you, but lie not directly in the East, West, North
or South quarters of Heaven; But Decline more
or lefs from the North or South, towards the Eaft
or Weft.
If the Scituation of the Planc be not given, you
muſt ſeek it: For, there are ſeveral ways how to
know theſe ſeveral kinds of Planes ufed among
Artiſts; But the readieft and eafieft is by an Inftu-
ment called a Declinatory, fitted to the variation
of your Place: And if it be truly made, you may
as fafely rely upon it as any other.
U 4
OPE-
312 MECHANICK DYALLING.
t
TH
OPERARTIONI I
The Defcription of the Clinatory.
HE Clinatory is made of a fquare Board,
ABCD, of a good thickneſs, and the lar-
ger the better; between two of the fides is de-
ſcribed on the Center A, a Quadrant as EF divided
into 90 equal parts or degrees, which are figured
with 10, 20, 30 to 90; and then back again with
the Complements of the fame Numbers to 90: Be-
tween the Limb and the two Semi-diameters is
made a round Box, into which a Magnetical Needle
Is fitted; and a Card of the Nautical Compafs,
divided into four nineties, beginning their Num-
bers at the East West North and South points of the
Compafs, from which points the oppofite fides of
the Clinatory receives their Names of East, Weft,
North and South.
But Note, That the North point of the Card
muſt be placed fo many degrees towards the East
or Weft fides of the Clinatory, as the Needle varies
from the true North point of the World, in the
place where you make your Dyal; which your
Workman that makes your Clinatory will know
how to fit.
Upon the Center A, whereon the Quadrant
was defcribed, is faftned a Plumb-line, having a
Plummet of Lead or Brafs faftned to the end of it,
which Plumb-line is of fuch length that the Plum-
met may fall juſt into the Groove G H, below the
Quadrant, which is for that purpoſe made of fuch
a depth, that the Plummet may ride freely within
it, without ſtopping at the fides of it, See the Fia
gure annexed.
With
MECHANICK DTALLING. 313
A
North
E
VOT
1 G6, ૩ • ૦૮
OM
310
Weft
3/24/25/0
6/5
O
F
With this Clinatory you may examine the fci-
tuation of Planes. As if your Plane be Horizon-
tal, it is direct: and then for the true fcituating
your Dyal, you have only the true North and
South Line to find: which is done only by ſetting
the Clinatory flat down upon the Plane, and turn-
ing it towards the right or left hand, till you can
bring the North point of the Needle to hang juſt
over the Flower-de-luce; for then if you draw a
Line by either of the fides parallel to the Needle,
that Line fhall be a North and South Line.
If your Plane either Recline or Incline, apply
one of the fides of your Clinatory parallel to one
D
South
of
C
314 MECHANICK DYALLING.
of the Semi-diameters of the Quadrant to the
Plane, in fuch fort that the Plumb-line hanging at
liberty, may fall upon the Circumference of the
Quadrant, for then the number of degrees of the
Quadrant comprehended between the fide of the
Quadrant parallel to the Plane, and the Plumb-line
ſhall be the number of degrees for Reclination, if
the Center of the Quadrant points upwards; or
Inclination, if the Center points downwards.
If your Reclining or Inclining Plane decline,
draw upon it a Line parallel to the Horizon,
which you may do by applying the Back-fide of
the Clinatory, and raising or depreffing the Cen-
ter of the Quadrant, till the Plumb-line hang juft
upon one of the Semi-diameters, for then you may
by the upper-fide of the Clinatory draw an Ho-
rizontal Line if the Plane Incline, or by the un-
der-fide, if it Recline. If it neither Incline or
Recline, you may draw a Horizontal Line both by
the upper and under fides of the Clinatory Ha-
ving drawn the Horizontal Line, apply the North
fide of the Clinatory to it, and if the North end
of the Needle points directly towards the Plane,
it is then a South Plane. If the North point of
the Needle points directly from the Plane, it is a
North Plane: But if it points towards the East,
it is an Eaft Plane: If towards the Weft, a West
Plane. If it do not point directly either Eaſt,
Weft, North, or South, then fo many degrees as
the Needle declines from any of thefe four points
to any of the other of theſe four points, ſo many
degrees is the Declination of the Plane.
You may find a Meridian Line another way;
thus, If the Sun fhine juft at Noon, hold up a
Plumb-line fo as the fhadow of it may fall upon
your Plane, and that fhadow fhall be a Meridian
Linc.
O PE-
MECHANICK DYALLING. 315
F
OPERA T. II.
To defcribe a Dyal upon a Horizontal Plane.
Irft draw a North and South Line (which is
called a Meridian Line) through the middle
of the Plane; Thus Set your Declinatory flat up-
on the Plane, and turn it too and fro till the
Needle hang precifely over the Meridian Line of
the Declinatory; then by the fide of the Declinatory
parallel to its Meridian Line, draw a ftraight Line
on the Plane, and if that ſtraight Line be in the
middle of the Plane, it fhall be the Meridian Line,
whithout more ado: But if it be not in the middle
of the Plane, you muſt draw a Line parallel to it,
through the middle of the Plane for the Meridian
Line, or twelve a Clock Line: And it fhall be the
Meridian Line, and alfo be the Subftilar Line; then
draw another ſtraight Line through th middle of
this Line, to cut it at right Angles for the VI a
Clock Lines; and where thefe two Lines cut one
another make your Center, whereon you defcribe
a Circle on your Plane as large as you can, which
by the Meridian Line, and the Line drawn at right
Angles with it will be divided into four Qua-
drants; one of the Quadrants divide into 90 de-
grees thus, keeping your Compaſſes at the fame
width they were at when you deſcribed the Qua-
drant, place one Foot in the twelve a Clock Line,
and extend the other in the Quadrant, and make
in the Quadrant a mark with it, ſo ſhall you have
the fixtieth degree marked out: Then place one
Foot of your Compafles in the fix a Clock Line, and
extend the other in the Quadrant, and make in the
Quadrant another mark with it; fo fhall that Qua-
drant be divided into three equal parts, each of
thefe three equal parts contains 30 Degrees: Then
with your Compaffes divide one of theſe three
equal
316 MECHANICK DYALLING.
equal parts into three parts, and transfer that di-
ftance to the other two third parts of the Quadrant,
fo fhall the whole Quadrant be divided into nine
equal parts. Then divide one of theſe nine e-
qual parts into two equal parts, and transfer that
diſtance to the other eight equal parts, fo fhall the.
Quadrant be divided into Eighteen equal parts.
Then divide one of theſe Eighteen equal parts
into five equal parts, and transfer that diftance to
the other Seventeen equal parts, fo fhall the whole
Quadrant be divided into 90 equal parts, Each
of theſe 90 equal parts are called Degrees.
Note, That you may in fmall Quadrants divide
truer and with lefs trouble with Steel Dividers,
(which open or cloſe with a Screw for that pur-
poſe,) then you can with Compaflès.
In this Quadrant (thus divided).count from the
Subftilar or Meridian Line the Elevation of the
Pole, that is, the number of Degrees that the Pole
of the World is elevated above the Horizon of
your Place, and draw a Line from the Center
through that number of Degrees for the Stilar
Line. Then on the Subftilar Line chofe a point
(where you pleaſe) and through that point draw
a Line at right Angles to the Subtilar Line as long
as you can, for the Line of Contingence, and from
that point in the Subftilar Line meaſure the neareſt
diſtance any part of the Stilar Line hath to that
point; and keeping one Foot of your Compafles
ftill in that point, fet of that diſtance in the Sub-
ftilar Line, and at that diſtance deſcribe againſt
the Line of Contingence a Semi-circle, which di-
vide from either fide the Meridian or Subftilar Line
into fix equal parts thus; Draw a line through
the Center of this Semi-circle parallel to the Line
of Contingence, which ſhall be the Diametral Line,
and fhall devide this Semi-circle into two Qua-
drants; one on one fide the Subftiler Line, and the
Qua-
MECHANICK DYALLING. 317
Quadrant on the other fide the Subftiler Line: then
keeping your Compafles at the fame diſtance they
were at when you deſcribed the Semi-circle, place
One Foot firft on one fide the Diametral Line at the
Interfection of it and the Semi-circle, and then on
the other fide, at the Interfection of it and the
Semi-circle, and extend the other in the Semi-
circle, and make marks in the Semi-circle on ei-
ther fide the Subtilar Line; then place one Foot
of your Compaffes at the Interſection of the Semi-
circle and the Subftilar Line, and turn the other
Foot about on either fide the Semi-circle and
make marks in the Semi-circle, fo fhall the Semi-
circle be divided into fix equal parts; Divide one
of theſe equal parts into two equal parts, and
transfer that diftance to the other five equal parts,
fo fhall the whole Semi-circle be divided into
twelve equal parts. Theſe twelve Divifions are to
defcribe the twelve Hours of the Day, between
fix a Clock in the Morning, and fix a Clock at
Night..
If you will have half Hours, you may divide
each of theſe twelve into two equal parts, as be-
fore: If you will have Quarters you may divide
each of theſe twenty four into two equal parts
more, as before.
For thus proportioning the Divifions in the
Semi-circle, you may proportion the Divifions
and Sub-divi-fions of Hours upon the Dyal Plane
for a ſtraight Ruler laid upon each of thefe Divi-
fions, and on the Center of this Semi-circle, fhall
fhew on the Line of Contingence the feveral Diſtan-
ces of all the Hours and parts of Hours on the
Dyal Plane. And ſtraight Lines drawn from the
Center of the Dyal Flane, through the feveral
Diviſions on the Line of Contingence fhall be the
feveral Hour Lines and parts on the Dyal Plane.
But
318 MECHANICK DYALLING.
But an Horizontal Dyal in our Latitude will ad-
admit of four Hours more, viz. V, IV, in the
Morning, and VII, VIII, in the Evening. There-
fore in the Circle defcribed on the Center of the
Dyal Plane transfer the diftance between VI and V,
and VI and IV,, on the other fide the fix a Clock
Line; and transfer the Diſtances between VI and
VII, and VI and VIII on the other fide the oppo-
fite fix a Clock Hour Line, and from the Center of
the Dyal Plane draw Lines through thofe transfer-
red Diſtances for the Hour Lines before and after
VI.
Then mark your Hour Lines with their refpe-
&tive numbers. The Subftilar Line in this Dyal (as
aforefaid) is XII, from thence towards the right
hand mark every fucceffive Hour Line with I, II,
III, &c. and from XII towards the left hand with
XI, X, IX, &c.
The Stile must be erected perpendicularly over
the Subftilar Line, fo as to make an Angle with
the Dyal Plane equal to the Elevation of the Pole of
your Place.
Example.
You would draw a Dyal upon a Horizontal Plane
here at London; Firft draw the Meridian (or North
and South Line) as XII B, and croſs it in the mid-
dle with another Line at right Angles, as VI, VI,
which is an Eaft and Weft Line; where theſe two
Lines cut each other as at A, make the Center,
whereon deſcribe the Semi-circle B, VI, VI; but
one of the Quadrants, viz. the Quadrant from XII
to VI, towards the right hand yon muſt divide in-
to 90 equal parts (as you were taught in Fol 12.)
and at 51 degrees (which is Londons Latitude)
make a mark, and laying a ftraight Ruler to the
Center of the Plane, and to this mark draw a Line
by the fide of it for the Stilar Line. Then on the
Subftilar
2
MECHANICK DTALLING. 319
Subftilar Line chufe a point as at C, and thro' that
point draw a Line as long as you can perpendicular
to the Eaſt and Weft Line VI, VI. as E F, (which
is called the Contingent Line) where this Contingent
Line cuts the Subftilar Line place one Foot of your
Compaffes, and from thence meaſure the ſhorteſt
Diſtance between the point C and the Stilar Line.
And keeping one Foot of your Compaffes ftill in
the point C, fet off the ſhorteſt diſtance between
the point C, and the Stilar Line on the Subftilar
Line, as at D; which point D fhall be a Center,
whereon with your Compaffes at the fame width
you muſt deſcribe a Semi-circle to reprefent a
Semi-circle of the Equinoctial. This Semi-circle
divide into fix equal parts (as you were taught Fol.
13.) to each of which equal parts, and to the Center
the Equinoctial Semi-circle lay a ftraight Ruler,
and where the ſtraight Ruler cuts the Line of Con-
tingence make marks in the Line of Contingence.
Then lay the ftraight Ruler to the Semi-circle of
the Dyal Plane, and to each of the marks in the
Line of Contingence, and by the fide of it draw
twelve ſtraight Lines for the twelve Fore and
Afternoon Hour Lines, viz. from VI in the Mor-
ning to VI in the Evening. Then in the Quadrant
VIB, meaſure the diſtance between the VI a Clock
Hour Line, and the V a Clock Hour Line, and
transfer the fame diftances from the VI a Clock
Line to VII, and V on both fides the VI a Clock
Hour Lines, and through thoſe diſtances draw
from the Center of the Plane the VII and V a Clock
Hour Lines, and meaſure the diſtance between the
VI a Clock Hour Line and the IV a Clock Hour
Line, and tranfer the fame diſtance from the Vľa
Clock Line to VIII and IV, and through thofe dift-
ftances draw from the Center of the Plane the
VIII a Clock and IV a Clock Hour Lines.
320 MECHANICK DYALLING!
IA
IA
A
I
V
LA
TA
GI
1
な
​I
H
I IIX IX X XI
ΠΙΛ
If you will have the half Hours and quarter.
Hours, or any other divifion of Hours, you muſt
divide each fix Divifions of the Equinoctial into fo
many parts as you intend, and by a ſtraight Ru-
ler laid to the Center of the Equinoctial, and thofe
divifions in the Equinoctial Circle make marks in
the Line of Contingence, as you did before for the
whole Hour Lines: and Lines drawn from the
Center of the Plane through thofe marks fhall be
the Sub-diviſions of the Hours: But you muſt re-
member to make all Sub-diviſions ſhort Lines, and
near the verge of the Dyal Plane, that you may
the eaſier diftinguish between the whole Hours and
the parts of Hours; as you may fee in the Figure.
Having drawn the Hour-Lines, fet the Number
of each Hour-Line under it, as you fee in the Fi-
gure. Laft of all fit a Triangular Iron, whofe an-
gular Point being laid to the Centre of the Dyal
Plane
MECHANICK DYALLING. 321
Plane, one fide muft agree with the Subfilar Line,
and its other fide with the Stiler Line; fo is the
Stile made. And this Stile you must erect Perpen-
diculary over the Subftilar Line on the Dal Plane,
and there fix it. Then is your Dyal finiſhed.
OPERAT.
III.
To deſcribe an Erect Direct South-Dyal.
You
Ou may know an Erect Direct South-Plane, by
applying the North-fide of the Declinatory to
it; For then, if the North-end of the Needle hang
directly over the North-point of the Card in the
bottom of the Box, it is a South-Plane; but it
hang not directly over the North-point of the Cd
it is not a Direct South-Plane, but Decline either Ea3
or Weft and that contrary to the Pointing of the
Needle Eaſterly or Wefterly, from the North
point of the Card: For, if the North-point of
the Needle points Eafterly, the Plane De lines from
the South towards the Weft: if it point Wefterly
the Plane Declines from the South towards the Fait.
You may know, if the Plane be truly Erect or up-
right, by applying one of the fides AD or AB to it;
for then by holding the Center A upwards fo as
the Plumb-line play free in the Groove, if the Line
falls upon o, or go, the Plane is upright; but, if
it hang upon any of the intermediate Degrees, it
is not upright, but Inclines or Reclines.
If you find it incline, apply the fide AB to it
and fee what number of Degrees the Plumb-line
falls on, for that number of Degrees, counted from
the faid A B, is the number of Degrees of Inclination.
If you find the Plane Reclines, apply the ſide A D
to it, and fee what number of Degrees the Plumb-
line falls on, for that number of Degrees counted
from the fide AD, is the number of Degrees of
Reclination.
X
the
The
і
289 MECHANICK DYALLING.
Thefe Rules being well understood, may ſerve
you to find the fcituation of all other fort of Planes.
But for the making a Dyal on this Plane, you muſt
firft draw a Meridian Line through the middle of
the Plane, by applying a Plumb-line to the middle
of it, till the Plumbet hang quietly before it: for
then, if the Plumb-line be blacked (for a white
Ground, or chalked for a dark Ground) and
trained as Carpenters do their Lines you may
with one ftroke of the ftring on the Plane, de-
fcribe the Meridian Line, as A XII. This Meridian
is alfo the Subftilar line.
VI
A
VI
VII
E
P 19
I 1 IXIXI X IX
Then on the top of this Meridian Line, as at A
draw another Line athwart it, to cut it at right,
Angles, as VI, VI. for an Eaft and Weft Line.
At the meeting of thefe two Lines at the top,
make your Center, whereon defcribe a Semi- -
Circle on your Plane, as large as you can, which by
the Meridian Line and the Eaft and West Line, will
be divided into two Quadrants. One of thefe Qua-
drants divide into 90 Degrees (as you were taught
Fol. 12.) and from the Subtilar Line count the Com-
plement of the Poles Elevation, which (here at Lon-
don where the Pole is elevated 51 Degrees, its
Complement to 90) is 38 Degrees, and make
there
MECHANİCK DYALLING. 290
there a mark, as at E. Then on the Subtilar line
chufe a point (where you pleaſe) as at F, for the line
of Contingence to paſs through; which Line of Con
tingence draw as long as you can, fo as it may cut
the Subftilar Line at right Angles, and from the
point F in the Subftilar line, meaſure the ſhorteſt
diftance between it and the Stilar Line, and keeping
one Foot of your Compaffes ftill in the point F,
transfer that diſtance into the Subftilar Line as at
G; then on the point G defcribe a Semi-Circle of
the Equinoctial against the Line of Contingence, which
Semi-Circle divide into twelve equal parts, (as you
were taught by the Example in the Horizontal Dyal,
Fol. 13.) and by a ſtraight Ruler laid to each of
thefe Divifions, and to the Center of the Semi-
Circle make marks in the Line of Contingence by the
fide of the Ruler; For ſtraight Lines drawn from
the Center of the Dyal plane through theſe marks
in the Contingent line fhall be the 12 Hour Lines be-
fore and after Noon.
Then mark your Hour Lines with their refpe-
&tive Numbers; the Subftilar or Meridian Line is
XII, from thence towards the right hand with I,
II, III, &c. and from thence towards the left
hand with a XI, X, IX, &c.
The Stile muſt be erected perpendicular over the
Subftilar Line, fo as to make an Angle with the
Dyal Plane equal to the Complement of the Poles
Elevation, viz. 38 Degrees.
OPERAT.
IV.
To make an Erect Direct North Dyal.
THE
HE Erect Direct North Dyal, Stile and all, is
made by the fame Rules, changing upwards
for downwards, and the left fide for the right,
the Erect Direct South Dyal is made; for if the Erect
Direct South Dyal be drawn on any tranfparent'
I Z
Plane,
324 MECHANICK DTALLING.
Plane, as on Glaſs, Horn, or an oyled Paper, and
the Horizontal Line VI, VI, turned downwards,
and the Line VII mark't with V, the Line VIII with
IIII, the Line V with VII, and the Line IIII with
VIII, then have you of it a North Erect Direct Dyal.
All the other Hour Lines in this Dyal are uſe-
lefs, becauſe the Sun in our Latitude fhines on a
North Face the longeſt Day only before VI in the
Morning, and after VI at Night.
H
OPERAT. V.
To describe an Erect Direct Eaſt Dyal.
Aving a Plumb-line a little above the Place
on the Wall where you intend to make your
Dyal, and wait till it hang quietly before the wall:
Then if the Line be rubbed with Chalk (like a Car-
penters Line) you may by holding the Plumbet
end cloſe to the wall, and ftraining it pretty ſtiff,
ſtrike with it a ſtraight Line, as Carpenters do:
This Line ſhall be a perpendicular, as A B. Then
chufe a convenient point in this Perpendicular, as
at C, for a Center, whereon defcribe an occult
Arch, as DE; This Arch muft contain the number
of Degrees of the Elevation of the Equinoctial,
counted between D and E, which in our Latitude
is 38, or (which is all one) the Complement of
the Poles Elevation. Therefore in a Quadrant of
the fame Radius, with the occult Arch meaſure 38/
Degrees, and fet them off in the Plane from E to
D: Then from D to the Center Cin the Perpendi-
cular, draw the prick't Line DC; this prick't Line
Thall repreſent the Axis of the World. Then croſs this
Line at right Angles with the Line CF, and draw
it from C to F, fo long as poffibly you can: This
Line fhall be the Contingent Line. Then chufe a
point in this Contingent Line, as at VI, draw a Line
through that point at right Angles for the Subfti-
lar
MECHANICK DYALLING. 325
lar Line, as G VI H for the Subtilar Line; then o
pen your Compaflès to a convenient width, (as to
VIG) and pitching one foot in the point G, with
the other Foot defcribe a Semi-Circle of the Eul
noctial against the Line of Contingence, which Se
mi-Circle divide from VI both ways into fix equal
parts, as you were taught by the Example in the
Horizontal Dyal; and laying a ftraight Ruler on
the Center of this Semi-Circle of the Equinoctial
and to each of thofe equal parts mark on the Con-
tingent Line where the Ruler cuts it, for thoſe
marks fhall be the feveral points from whence
Lines drawn parallel to the Line CD fhall be the
reſpective Hour Lines.
A
D
:
•
II VV VI VIII IX
VVIVI
X
F.
B
1
{
?
A
;
X 3
The
293 MECHANICK DYALLING.
The reaſon why the Contingent Line is drawn from
VI to F, fo much longer than from VI to C is; be-
caufe the Hour Lines from VI towards XII are
more in Number towards Noon, than they are
from VI backwrd towards IIII, for this Dyal will
only fhew the Hours from a little before IV in the
Morning to almoft Noon. For juft at Noon the
Shadow goes off the Plane; as you may fee, if you
apply a ſtraight Ruler to the Center of the equi-
noctial Semi-Circle G, and lay it to the point 12
in the Semi-Circle, for the ftraight Ruler will then
never cut the Line of Contingence, becauſe the Line
of Contingence is parallel to the line G XII on the
Equinoctial Circle, and Lines parallel, though con-
tinued to never fo great a length, never meet.
To thefe Hour Lines, fet Figures as may be feen
in the Scheme.
The Stile IK of this Dyal, as well as of all
others, muſt ſtand parallel to the Axis of the World;
and alſo parallel to the Face of the Plane, and
parallel to all the Hour lines, and ſtand directly
over the Sabftilar or VI a Clock Hour line, and that
To high as is the diſtance of the Center of the Equi-
noctial Semi-Circle from the Contingent Line.
OPERA T. VI
To defcribe a Dyal on an Erect Direct Weſt Plane.
A
N Erect Direct Weft-Dyal, is the fame in all
refpects with an Ere& Direct Eaſt-Dyal;
only as the Eaſt-Dyal fhews the Forenoon Hours,
ſo the Weſt ſhews the Afternoon Hours.
Thus, if you ſhould draw the Eaft-Dyal on any
tranfparent Plane, as on Glafs, Horn, or oyled
Paper, on the one fide will appear an East Dyal, on
the other fide a Weft; only the numbers to the Hour
Lines (as was faid before in the North- Dyal,) muſt
be
MECHANICK DYALLING. 294
be changed; for that which in the Eaft-Dyal is XI,
in the West must be I; that which in the Eaft-Dyal
is X, in the West must be II; that which in the East
Dyal is IX, in the Weft muſt be III, &c. The Stile
is the fame.
OPERAT. VII.
To Defcribe a Dyal on an Erect North, or Erect South
Plane Declining Eastwards or Westwards.
T
Hefe four Dyals, viz. the Erect North Decli-
ning Eastwards, the Erect North Declining
Westward, the Erect South Declining Eastward, and
the Ercel South Declining Westwards, are all project-
ed by the fame Rules; and therefore are in ef-
fect but one Dyal differently placed, as you ſhall fee
hereafter.
Firſt draw on your Plane a ftraight Line to re-
prefent the Horizon of your place, and mark one
end of it W for Weft, and the other end E for Eaft.
Chufe a point in this Horizontal Line for a Center,
as at A, whercon you may defcribe a Circle to
comprehend all thefe four Dyals: Draw a Line as
MAM perpendicular to the Horizontal Line WE,
through the Center A for a Meridian Line and on
that Center defcribe a Circle, which by the two
Lines WA. E, and M A M will be divided into four
Quadrants, which will comprehend the four Dyals a-
forefaid; for if it be a North Declining Weft you are
to draw, the upper Quadrant to the left hand ferves
your purpofe; If a South declining Weft, the fame
Lines continued through the Center A into the lo
wer Quadrant to the right Hand ferve your turn;
if a North Declining Eaft, the upper Quadrant to the
right hand ferves your turn; or if a South declining
Eaft, the fame Lines continued through the Center
A into the lower Quadrant to the left hand ferves
your turn; and you muſt draw the Declination, Com-
I 4
plement
£
328 MECHANICK DTALLING.
plement of the Poles Altitude; Subftile Stile andHour
Lanes in it; but the Hour Lines must be differently
marked as you fhall fee hereafter. Ifhall only give
you an Example of one of thefe Dyals, viz. A
South Declining Eaft.
IM
W
B R
A
F
{
E
V P
VI VIL VI IX X XI XI p I (1,25.) T
We will fuppofe you are to draw a Dyal that
declines from the South 50 Degrees towards the Eat;
here being but one Dyal, you need defcribe but
one Quadrant of a Circle. Set off in the lower Qua-
drant WAM 50 degrees from the Meridian Line
M towards W, and from the Center A draw a
Straight Line through that mark in the Quadrant as
DA, which may be called the Line of Declination;
then fet off from the Meridian Line the Complement
of the Poles Elevation, which in our Latitude is
38 degrees, and there draw another Line from
the Center as AP, which we will call the Polar Line.
Then
MECHANICK DTALLING. 329
"Then take in the Horizontal Line a convenient por-
tion of the Quadrant, as AB, and from the point B
draw a Line parallel to the Median Line A M, and
continue that Line till it interfect the Polar Line,
as at P, from which Point P draw a Line parallel to
WA, as PC: Then meafure the diſtance of AB
in the Horizontal Line, and fet off that diſtance in
the Line of Declination, as from A to D, and from
that point of diſtance draw a Line parallel to the
Meridian A M through the Horizontal Line at R and
through the Point D and continue it through the
Line PC, as at S; then laying a ſtraight Ruler to
the Center A and the Interfection of the line P C,
at S draw the Line AS for the Subtile: Then upon
the point S erect a Line perpendicularly as ST;
Then meaſure the distance between R and D, and
fet that diſtance off from S to T, and from the Cen-
ter to the point T draw the Line AT for the Stile
or Gnomon; and the Triangle S AT made of Iron or
Brafs, and erected perpendicularly over the Sub-
ftile S A, fhall by its upper fide TA, caſt a ſhadow
upon the Hour of the day. But you will fay, the
Hour Lines muſt be drawn firft: It is true; There-
fore to draw them you muſt chufe a point in the
Subftile Line where you think good, and through it
draw the Line F F as long as you can for the Line
of Contingence; then with your Compaffes take the
diſtance between this point and the Stile, and trans-
fer that diſtance below the Line of Contingence on
the Subftile as at E, and with your Compaſſes at
that diſtance defcribe on the Center E a Circle to
reprefent the Equinoctial; then (as you were
taught in the Example of the Horizontal Dyal) di-
vide the Semi-Circle of the Equinoctial into twelve
equal parts, beginning at the point in the Equinocti-
al Circle, where a ftraight Line drawn from the
Center of it to the Interfection of the Line of
Contingence with the Meridian Line cuts the Equi
mactial
297 MECHANICK DYALLING.
noctial Line, as here at the Point G; then lay a
ſtraight Ruler to the Center of the Equocial Cir-
cle and to every one of the Diviſions in the Semi-
cle, and mark where the ſtraight Ruler cuts the
Contingent Line; for ſtraight Lines drawn from the
Center A of the Dyal to thoſe ſeveral marks on the
Contingent Line, fhall be the Hour Lines; and muſt
be numbred from the Noon Line or Meridian A M
backwards, as XII, XI, X, IX, &c. towards the
left hand. So is your Dyal finiſhed.
This Dyal drawn on any tranfparent matter, as
Horn, Glaſs, or an oyled Paper, fhall on the other
fide the tranſparent matter become a South Decli-
ning Weft (Stile and all) but then the I a Clock Hour
Line muſt be marked II. the XII, XII, the XI a
Clock Hour Line, I, X, II, IX, III, &c.
If you project it a new, you muſt deſcribe the
Quadrant MW on the other fide the Meridian Line,
on the Center A from M to E, and then count,
(as before) the Declination, Altitude of the Pole, Sub-
ftile, and Stile in the Quadrant, beginning at M to-
wards E, and work in all refpects as with the South
Declining Eaft; only number this South Declining
Weft as in the foregoing Paragraph.
If you project a North Declining Eaft, you muſt
defcribe the Quadrant above the Horizontal Line
from M upwards, towards E on your right hand
and count (as before) the Declination, Altitude, Com-
plement of the Pole, Subftile and Stile from the me-
ridian Line, and work as with the South Declining
Eaft: It muſt be numbred from the Meridian Line
M towards the right hand with XI, X, IX, VIII, &c.
If this Dyal were drawn on tranfparent matter,
the other fide would. fhew a North Declining Weft:
But if you will project it anew, you muſt defcribe
the Quadrant above the Horizontal Line, from M
upwards towards W, and count from the Meridian
Line AM the Declinatim, Complement, Altitude of
the
it
MECHANICK DYALLING. 208
-the Pole, Subftile and Stile, and work with them (in
all refpects) as with the South Declining Eaft brit
then the XI a Clock Hour Line must be marked
the X, II; the IX, III, &c.
OPERAT.
VIII.
To draw a Dyal on an Eaft or Weft Plane Reclining
or Inclining.
Raw a ſtraight Line parallel to the Horizon, to
-
the
repreſent the Meridian, or XII a Clock Line
and mark one end N, the other S; chufe a point
in this Line, as at A for a Center: Then if Your
Plane be an Eaf, or a Weft Incliner, let fall a Per-
pendicular upon this Center, (that is, the Per-
pendicular muſt ſtand above the Meridian Line NS)
as A E, and upon the Center A defcribe a Semi-
Circle above the Meridian Line NS; But if your
Plane be an Eaſt Incliner, or a Weft Recliner, let
fall a Perpendicular from the Center A under the
Meridian Line, and upon the Center A defcribe
a Semi-Circle under the Meridian Line. If your
Plane be a Weft Incliner; work (as fhall be taught)
in the Quadrant on the left hand above the Meridian
Line. If an Eaſt Recliner, in the Quadrant on the
right hand above the Meridian Line. If it be a Weſt
Recliner, work in the Quadrant on the left-hand
under the Meridian. If an Eaft Incliner, in the
Quadrant under the Meridian Line the right hand.
-
For Example, An East Dyal Reclining 45 Degrees.
You would draw a Dyal on an Eaft Plane Reclini
ning 45 Degrees: Therefore in the Quadrant on
the right hand above the Meridian Line, fet off
from the Perpendicular A E 45 Degrees on the
Quadrant for the Reclination of the Plane; and fet
off
332 MECHANICK DTALLING.
off alfo in the Quadrant 38 Degrees from the Per-
pendicular for the Complement of the Poles Elevation,
and at theſe ſettings off make marks in the Qua-
drant; Then lay a ftraight Ruler to the Center A,
and to the marks in the Quadrant, and draw ſtraight
Lines through them from the Center. Then chufe
in the Meridian Line N S a convenient point as at
B, and through that point draw a Line parallel to
the perpendicular A E, which will Interfect the
Line drawn for the Complement of the Poles Ele-
vation AP in P; from which point P, draw a Line
parallel to the Meridian Line NS, to cut the Per-
pendicular A E in C. and alfo the Line of Obli-
quity A O in O. Then meaſure the length A O,
and fet off that length in the Perpendicular
ACE from A to E, and draw the Line EG pa-
rallel to the Meridian Line NS which will cut
the Line BP prolonged in G. Meaſure alfo the
length of CÔ, and fet that length off from
A to Qon the Line of Obliquity AŎ, and draw
the Line QR parallel to the Perpendicular A CE.
Then meaſure the diſtance of AR, and upon the
Line GP B, fet it off from G to S; and laying a
ftraight Ruler to the point S and the Center A,
draw by the fide of it the Line AS, for the
Subftile Line. Then meaſure the length of QR,
and from S raiſe a Perpendicular, and in that Per-
pendicular, fet that length off from S to T; and
laying a ſtraight Ruler to the Center A and the
point T, draw the Line AT for the Stilar Line,
which Stilar Line being Perpendicular erected over
the Subftilar Line AS, will ftand parallel to the
Axis of the World, and caft its fhadow on the Hour
of the Day,
To
MECHANICK DYALLING.
333
TIL
V
VI
E
VIL
1.
2
F
P
VIII
TX
X
A
RB NXI
To draw the Hour Lines on this Plane, you
muft (as you have feveral times before, been di
rected) chufe a point in the Subftilar Line and
through that point draw at right Angles with the
Subftilar Line, the Line of Contingence fo long as you
can: Then meafure the fhorteft diſtance between
that Point and the Stilar Line, and transfer that.
diſtance below the Line of Contingence in the Subfti-
lar Line, as at Æ, and with your Compafles at that
diſtance, defcribe againſt the Line of Contingence
the Equinoctial Circle; then divide the Semi-
circle of the Equinoctial next the Line of Contingence
into twelve equal parts, as you have formerly been
taught, beginning at the Point in the Equinoctial
Circle, where a ſtraight Line drawn from the Center
of it to the Interfection of the Line of Contingence ·
with
30L MECHANICK DFALLING.
with the Meridian Line NS cuts the Equinoctial Circle
as here at the point D; Then lay a ſtraight Ruler
to the Center of the Equinoctial Circle, and to every
one of the Diviſions in the Equinoctial Semi-Circle,
and mark where the ftraight Ruler cuts the Con-
tingent Line; for ftraight Lines drawn from the
Center A of the Dyal. through theſe ſeveral marks
in the Contingent Line fhall be the Hour Lines and
muſt be numbred from the Meridian or Noon-Line
N S, which is the XII a Clock Line upwards, with
XI, X, IX, VIII, &c. The Center of this Dyal
muſt ſtand downward.
If this Dyal were turned with its Center up-
wards, it would ſhew a Weft Inclining 45 degrees, on-
ly the numbers to the Hour Lines muſt be changed;
for to XI you muſt fet I, to X, II, to IX, III, &c.
and the Subftile over which the Stile muft ftand,
muſt be placed inthe Semi-circle (at firft defcribed)
as much to the right hand the perpendicular A E,
as it doth on the left hand.
If this Dyal were drawn on Glafs, or Horn, or
an oyled Paper, and you turn the Meridian Line NS
upwards the back fide fhall be an Eaft Inclining 45
degrees, and the Hour Lines must be numbred as
they are on the Ecft Reclining; But the Subítile over
which the Stile inuft ftand muſt be placed in the
Semi-circle (at firſt deſcribed) as much to the left
hand the perpendiculer A E, as it is on the cyled
Paper to the right hand.
If you turn the Meridian Line NS downwards,
the backside ſhall be a West Recliner 45 Degrees, and
the Hour Lines muſt be numbred from the XII a
Clock line upwads, with I, II, III, &c.
You muſt Note that all the Hour-Lines of the
Day will nor be defcribed in this fingle Quadrant,
nor does the Quadrant at all relate to the Hour Lines;
but is deſcribed only for fetting off the Complement
of the Poles Elevation and Reclination of the Plane,
that
MECHANICK DTALLING. 302
that by working (as hath been fhewn) you may
find the place of the Subftilar Line, and the An-
gle the Stile makes with it; for having the Subfti-
lar Line, you know how to draw the Line of Con-
tingence, and to defcribe the Equinoctial Circle, by
which all the Hours are defcribed on the Plane.
To draw a Dyal on a Direct South or North Plane
Inclining or Reclining.
Direct Reclining or Inclining Dyals are the fame
with Erect Direct Dyals that are made for the La-
titude of fome other Places; the Latitude of
whi h Places are either more then the Latitude of
your place, if the Plane Recline, or lefs, if it In-
clines; and that in fuch a proportion as the Arch of
Reclination or Inclination is,
#
2
I
2
Thus a Direct South Dyal Reclining 10 degrees
in London's Latitude, (viz. 51 degrees) is an
Erect Direct South Dyal made for the Latitude of
61 degrees. And a Direct South Dyal Inclining
10 in the Latitude of 51 is an Erect Direct South
Dyal in the Latitude of 41 degrees, and is to
be made according to the Direction given in
Operat. III.
OPERAT. IX.
To draw a Dyal on a South or North Inclining De-
clining, or Reclining Declining Plane.
Hefe four forts of Dyals, viz. the South In-
The
clining Declining, and South Reclining De-
clining, and North Inclining Declining, and South
Reclining Declining are all projected by the fame
Rules; and therefore are in effect but one Dyal
differently placed, as you fhall fee hereafter.
Firſt,
336 MECHANICK DYALLING.
Firft, draw on your Plane a ſtraight Line parallel
to the Horizon, and mark one end W for Weft, and
the other. E for East. On South Incliners and Re-
cliners, E on the right hand, and W on the left;
on North Incliners and Recliners E on the left
and W on the right. Chufe a point in this Horizon-
tal Line for a Center, as at A; through this point
A draw a Line perpendicular to the Horizon, and
on this point (as on a Center) deſcribe a Semi-Cir-
cle, one Quadrant above, and another below the Ho-
rizontal Lines, (though for this Example I defcribe
but one.) Then if the Plane refpect the South, fet
off in the lower Quadrant from the perpendicular,
the Declination, the Inclination, or the Reclina-
tion, and the Complement of the Altitude of the
Pole; and thro' theſe ſeveral ſettings off in the
Quadrant, draw ftraight Lines from the Center A,
then take in the Horizontal line towards the Semi-
circle, a convenient diſtance from the Center A,
as B, and through the point B draw a ſtraight Line
parallel to the Perpendicular, and prolong it thro'
the Polar line, as BP; thro' the point P; draw a
Line parallel to the Horizontal line, as PC; this
line will cut the Line of Obliquity in the point O,
then meaſure the diftance of A O, and fet off
that diſtance on the Perpendicular from A to F,
and through the point F draw a ſtraight line pa-
rallel to the Horizontal line, as FG, for the Hori-
zontal Interfection. Then meafure the diftance of
CO, and fet off that diſtance on the Perpendicular
from A to L; from the point L draw the line
LD parallel to the Horizontal line, to cut the line
of Declination iu the point D. Then meaſure the
diſtance of A B, and ſet off that diſtance in the
Line of Declination from A to E; and from the
point E, draw a ſtraight line parallel to the Hori-
zontal line W E, to cut the Perpendicular in the
point K. Meaſure the diſtance of EK, and fet
olf
MECHANICK DTALLING. 337
fet off that diſtance on the other fide the Perpen-
dicular in the Horizontal Interfection, from F to H
and from the point H draw H N parallel to the
Perpendicular to cut the Horizontal line in the
point N.
W
R B
S
Æ
S
M
e
F
X
34
30.7.
E20. J.
P
G
E
1
Then to find the Meridian line, Subftile and Stiles
do thus. If your Plane be a Southern Incliner, or a
Norbern Recliner, meaſure the diftance of LD, and
and fet off that diſtance in the Horizontal Interfecti-
on from F to M, and through the point M draw.
the line A M for the Meridian line. Then add the
diſtance of AL to A K, thus: Meaſure the di-
ſtance of A L, and place one Foot of your Com
paſſes in the point K in the Perpendicular line, and
extend the other to X, and meafuring the di-
ſtance of AX, fet it off in the line of Obliquity from
A to Q; and from the point Q draw the line QR
parallel to the Perpendicular, and cutting the Ho-
rizontal line in the point R. Then meaſure the
diſtance of A R, and ſet off that diſtance from H
1
Y
ig
338
MECHANICK DYALLING.
in the Horizontal Interfection to S on the line HN,
and to the point S draw the line AS for the Sub-
file. Then meafure the diftance of QR, and fet
off that diftance perpendicularly from the point
S to T; and laftly, from the point A draw
the ſtraight line AT for the Stilar line, which
Stilar line being perpendicularly erected over the
Subftilar line A S, will ftand parallel to the Axis of
the World, and caft its fhadow on the Hour of the
Day.
But if the Plane be a Southern Recliner, or North-
ern Incliner, meaſure (as before) the distance of
LD, and (as before you were directed) to ſet it off
from F in the Horizontal Interfection on the right
hand the perpendicular line: So now, fet that
distance from F to m in the Horizontal Interfection
on the left hand in the Perpendicular line, and
draw the line A m for the Meridian Line. Then
as before you were directed, to add A L to A K;
So now, fubftra&t the diftance of AL from A K,
and the remainder will be LK: Set therefore the
diſtance of LK from A to q in the fame line of
Obliquity, and from the point q draw the line qr
parallel to the perpendicular. Meaſure then the
diſtance of Ar, and fet of that diftance in the
line H N, from H tos for the Subftilar line; then
erect on the point sa perpendicular, and on that
Perpendicular fet off from s to the diftance of qr:
And lastly, from A draw the Line At for the Sti-
lar Line.
If K falls upon L the Plane is parallel to the Axis
of the World, and the Dyal drawn upon it will
have no Center; But s will fall upon H, and AH
(or As) will be the Subftile:
I fhall give you two Examples of thefe Rules:
One of a Dyal with a Center, and the other of a
Dyal without a Center. And firft,
i.
O P E-
1
MECHANICK DYALLING. 339
नै
VI
VII
OPERAT. X.
How to draw a Dyal with a Center, Declining 20
Degrees, and Inclining 30 Degrees.
136 Х
XI
XII I
I
HA
Aving by the foregoing Precepts of the laſt
Operat. found the Subftile, Stile and Meria
dian, you muſt (as you have often been directed}
chufe a point in the Subftilar line; through which,
at right Angles to the Subftilar line, draw the line
of Contingence as long as you can; then meaſure
the ſhorteſt diſtance between the point of Inter-
fection and the Stilar line, and transfer that diſt
ance on one fide of the line of Contingence upon the
Subftilar line, and fo defcribe the Equinoctial Semi-
circle againſt the line of Contingence: Then lay a
ftraight Ruler to the Center of the Equinoctial Cir-
cle as at Æ, and to the point where the line of Con-·
tingence cuts the Meridian Line, as at Z, and mark
where the ſtraight Ruler cuts the Equinoctial Circle,
Y 2
and
340 MECHANICK DTALLING.
and from that mark begin to divide the Semi-circle
into twelve equal parts, and by a ſtraight Ruler laid
to thoſe diviſions and the Center of the Equinoctial,
make marks in the line of Contingence. Then fhall
ftraight lines drawn from the Center A of the Dy-
al, through every one of the marks in the Contin-
gent line be the Hour lines of the Dyal, and must be
numbred from the XII a Clock line towards the
right Hand, with I, II, III, IV, &c. And the
other way with XI, X, IX, &c.
OPERA T. XI.
How to draw a Dyal without a Center, on a South
Plane; Declining Eaft 30 Degrees, Recilning
34 Degrees 32 Minutes.
Aving by the Precepts of Operat. IX. found
HA
the Subftile, you must find the Meridian line
otherwife than you were there taught: For, having
drawn the lines of Latitude, Declination and Reclina-
tion, and found the Subtile, meaſure the diſtance of
BP, and fet it off on the line of Declination from A
to K, and draw from the Perpendicular AF the
line KQ parallel to AB: then meaſure the length
of K Q, and fet it off on the Polar line A P, from
A to V; then take the neareſt diſtance between
the point V and the line A B, and fet it off on the
line QK from Q to M; through which point M,
draw a line from the Center A; then meaſure with
your Compaſſes in the Semi-circle W N E (which
in this Dyal may reprefent the Equinoctial) the
diſtance of the Arch N m, and ſet off that diſtance
from the Interfection of the Subftile with the Semi-
circle at S to T in the Semi-circle, which point
T fhall be the point in the Equinoctial that you
muſt begin to divide the Hours at, for the find-
ing their diſtances on the line of Contingence.
Ther
MECHANICK DYALLING. 345
!
A
E:
P.38.
VII
VIII
XI
H:
IX
IX
T N
е
Then confider (according to the bignefs of your
Plane) what height your Stile fhall ſtand above the
Subftile, and there make a mark in the Subftile;
for the diſtance between the Center A, and that
mark muſt be the height of the Stile perpendicu-
larly erected over the Subftile, as at I. Draw
through this point I a line of Contingence, as long as
you can to cut the Subftile at right Angles, and then
laying a Ruler to the Center A, and fucceffively to
to each Divifion of the Equinoctial make marks in
the line of Contingence, and through thofe marks
draw ftraight lines parallel to the Subtile, which
fhall be the Hour lines; and muſt be numbred from
the left hand towards the right, beginning at the
XII a Clock line with I, II, III, &c. and from the
right hand towards the left on the XII a Clock line
with XI, X, IX, &c.
The Stile to this Dyal may be either a ftraight
Pin of the length of A I, or elſe a ſquare of the
fame height, erected Perpendicularly upon the
I, in the Subtilar-line.
Y 3
OP E-
11
342 MECHANICK DYALLING.
OPERA T. XII.
To make a Dyal on the Cieling of a Room, where the
Direct Beams of the Sun never come.
FT
Ind fome convenient place in the Tranfum of
a Window to place a fmall round piece of
Looking-Glaſs, about the bignefs of a Groat or
lefs, fo as it may lie exactly Horizontal. The
point in the middle of this Glaſs we will mark A,
and for diftinction-fake call it Nodus. Through
this Nodus you muft draw a Meridian line on the
Floor, thus: Hang a plumb-line in the window
exactly over Nodus, and the fhadow that the
plumb-line cafts on the Floor juſt at Noon will be
a Meridian line; or you may find a Meridian line
otherwife by the Clinatory. Having drawn the
Meridian line on the Cieling, thus: Hold a Plumb-
line to the Cieling, over that end of the Meridian
line next the window; if the Plumbet hang not ex-
actly on the Meridian line on the Floor, remove
your hand on the Cieling one way or other, as you
fee cauſe till it do hang quietly juſt over it, and
at the point where the Plumb line touches the Cie-
ling make a mark, as at B; that mark B ſhall be
directly over the Meridian line on the Floor: Then
remove your Plumb line on the Floor, and find a
point on the Cieling directly over it, as you did
the former point, as at C, and through theſe
two points B and C on the Cieling, ftrain and
ftrike a line blackt with Small-coal or any other Co-
luor (as Carpenters do) and that line BC on the
Cieling fhall be the Meridan line as well as that on
the Floor: Then faften a ſtring juft on the Nodus,
and remove that ftring, forwards or backwards,
in the Meridian line on the Cieling, till it have the
fame Elevation in the Quadrant on the Clinatory
above
MECHANICK DYALLING. 343
above the Horizon that the Equinoctial hath in your
Habitation and through the point where the ſtring
touches the Meridian line in the Cieling, fhall a line
be drawn at right Angles with the Meridian, to re-
preſent the Equinoctial line.
Thus in our Latitude the Elevation of the Equa-
tor being 38 degrees; I remove the ſtring faft-
ned to the Nodus forwards or backwards in the
Meridian line of the Cieling, till the Plumb-line of
the Quadrant on the Clinatory, when one of the
fides are applied to the ftring, falls upon 38½ de-
grees, and then I find it touch the Meridian line
at D in the Cieling; therefore at D Imake a mark,
and through this mark ftrike the line DE (as be-
fore I did in the Meridian line) to cut the Meridian
line at right Angles: This line fhall be the Equi-
noctial line, and ſerve to denote the Hour Diftan-
ces, as the Contingent Lines does on other Dyals,
as you have often feen.
Then I place the Center of the Quadrant on the
Clinatory upon Nodus, fo as the Arch of the Qua-
drant may be on the Eaft fide the Meridian Line,
and underprop it fo, that the flat fide of the Qua-
drant may lie parallel to the ftring, when it is ftra-
ined between the Nodus and the Equinoctial, and
alfo fo as the ſtring may lie on the Semi-diameter
of the Quadrant, when it is held up to the Meri-
dian Line on the Cieling. Then removing the
ftring the space of 15 degrees in the Quadrant,
and extending it to the Equator on the Cieling,
where the ſtring touches the Equator, there fhall
be a point through which the I a Clock Hour-line
fhall be drawn and removing the ftring yet 15
degrees futher to the Eaſtwards in the Semi-Circle
of Pofition, and extending it alſo to the Equator,
where it touches the Equator, there fhall be a
point through which the II a Clock Hour-Line
fhall be drawn. Removing the ftring yet 15
degrees
:
Y 4
344 MECHANICK DYALLING.
further to the Eastwards in the Semi-circle of
Polition, and extending it alfo to the Equator,
where it touches the Equator, there fhall be a
point, through which the II a Clock Hour-line
Thall be drawn. Removing the ſtring yet 15 de-
grees
further to the Eastwards in the Semi circle
of Poſition, and extending to the Equator; there
fhall be a point through which the III a Clock
Hour-line fhall be drawn: The like for all other
Afternoon Hour lines. So oft as the ftring is re-
movd through 15 degrees on the Quadrant, fo
oft fhall it point out the Afternoon diſtances in the
Meridian line on the Cieling.
Having thus found out the points in the Equa-
tor through which the afternoon Hour-lines are to
be drawn, I may find the Forenoon Hour-diſtances
alſo the fame way, viz. by removing the Arch
of the Quadrant to the Weft-fide the Meridian, as
before it was placed on the East, and bringing the
ftring to the feveral 5 degrees on the West-fide
the Quadrant; or elfe I need only meaſure the
diſtances of each Hours diftance found in the Equa-
tor from the Meridian line on the Cieling; for the
fame number of the Hours from XII, have the
fame diſtance in the Equino&tial line on the other
fide the Meridian, both before and after-noon:
The XI a Clock Hour diſtance is the fame from the
Meridian Line, with the Ia Clock diſtance on the
other fide the Meridian, the X a Clock diftance,
the fame with the II a Clock diſtance; the IX
with the III, C. And thus the diſtances of all
the Hour lines are found out on the Equator.
Now
MECHANICK DTALLING. 345
C
D
78.
H
B
9
TO
Now if the Center of this Dyal lay within
doors, you might draw lines from the Center
through theſe pricks in the Equator, and thoſe
lines fhould be the Hour lines, as in other Dyals :
But the Center of this Dyal lies without doors in
the Air, and therefore not convenient for this pur-
poſe: So that for drawing the Hour lines, you
muft confider what Angle every Hour line in a Ho-
rizontal Dyal makes with the Meridian; that is,
at what diſtance in Degrees and Minutes the Hour
lines of an Horizontal Dyal cut the Meridian;
which you may examine, as by Operat. II. For
an
346
MECHANICK DYALLING.
an Angle equal to the Complement of the fame
Angle, muft each refpective Hour line with the
Equator on the Cieling have.
Thus upon the point markt for each Hours dift-
ance in the Equinoctial Line on the Cieling. I def-
cribe the Arches I. II, III, IV, as in the Figure,
and finding the diftance from the Meridian of the
Hour Lines of an Horizontal Dyal to be accor-
ding to Operat. II. Thus,
Те
a Clock
I 1.40
whofe Com-78.201
~ 3
2
Hour-
24.15
Line.
38.140
plement to
165.45
90 is
51.56
5336
36.24
I meaſure in a Quadrant of the fame Radius
with thofe Arches already drawn from the Equi-
noctial Line,
78.30
for the
a Clock Hour 265.45
3
51.56
36.24
;
and transfer the diſtances to the Arches drawn on
the Cieling: For then ſtraight lines drawn through
the mark in the Arch, and through the mark in
the Equator, and prolonged both ways to a con-
venient length, ſhall be the ſeveral Hours lines (a-
forefaid;) and when the Sun Shines upon the
Glafs at Nodus; its Beames ſhall reflect upon the
Hour of the Day.
Some Helps to a young Dyaliſt for his more orderly and
quick making of Dyals.
T may prove fomewhat difficult to thofe that
are unpractifed in Mathimatical projections, to
divide
MECHANICK DTALLING. 347
divide a Circle into 360 Degrees (or which is all
one) a Semi-circle into 180, or a Quadrant into
90 Degrees; and though I have taught you in the
projectioning the Horizontal Dyal the original way
of doing this, yet you may do it a ſpedier way by a
line of Cords, which if you will be curious in your
Practife, you may make your felf; .or if you ca-
count it not worth your while, you may by it
already made on Box or Brafs of moft Mathema-
tical Inftrument Makers. This Inftrument is by
them call a Plain Scale which does not only accom-
modate you with the divifions of a Quadrant, but
alfo ferves for a Ruler to draw ftraight lines with;
the manner of making it is as follows.
Defcribe upon a fmooth flat even grain'd Board
a quarter of an whole Circle. as BC, whofe Radi-
us A B or AC may be four Inches, if you intend
to make large Dyals or two Inches, if fmall;
but if you will you may have feveral lines of
Chords on your Scale or Rule. Divide this Qua-
drant into 90 equal parts, as you were taught in
the making the Horizontal Dyal
LA
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B
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10
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|. . . . . . . . . |
. . . . . . . . .
30
40
---f.
50
20
30
P45
4/0
50 60
810
92
}
348 MECHANICK DYALLING.
I
Then draw clofe by the edge of your ſtraight
Ruler a line parallel to the edge, and at about a
part of an Inch a fecond line parallel to that, and
at about of an Inch a third line parallel to both.
Then place one Foot of your Compalles at the be-
ginning of the first degree on the Quadrant defcri-
bed on the Board, as at B, and open the other
Foot to the end of the firft degree, and transfer
that diſtance upon your Rule, from B to the firſt
mark or division, between the two firit drawn
lines. Then place one Foot of your Compafles
again at the beginning of the firft Degree, on the
Quadrant defcribed on the Board, as at R, and
open the other Foot to the end of the fecond De-
gree, and transfer that diftance upon your Rule
from B to the fecond mark or divilion between the
two firft drawn Lines; and thus meafure the dift-
ance of every Degree from the firſt Degree def-
cribe on the Quadrant, and transfer it to the Rule.
But for diſtinction fake, you may draw every tenth
divifion from the firſt line parallel to the edge of
the third line, and mark them in fucceffion from
the beginning with 10, 20, 30, to 90, and the
fifth Divifions you may draw half way between the
fecond and the third parallel lines; the fingle Divi-
fions only between the two firft parallel lines. Sq
is your lines of Chords made,
A
The uſe of the Line of Chords.
S its uſe is very eafie, fo its convenience is
very great; for placing one Foot of your
Compaffes at the first Divifion on the Scale, and
opening the other to the 60th Degree, you may
with the points of your Compaffes (fo extended)
deſcribe a Circle, and the ſeveral Diviſions, on the
Scale fhall be the Degrees of the four Quadrants of
of that Circle, as you may try by working back-
wards, to what you were just now taught in the
making
MECHANICK DTALLING. 349
making the Scale: For as before you meaſured the
diſtance of the degrees of the Quadrant, and
transfer'd them to the Scale, fo now you only
meaſure the Divifions on the Scale, and transfer
them to the Quadrant, Semi-circle, or whole Cir-
cle diferibed on your Paper. For Example,
If you would meafure 30 Degrees in your de
fcribed Circle, place one Foot of your Compaſſes
at the beginning of Divifions on the Scale, as at
A, and extend the other Foot to the Divifions
marked 30, and that diſtance transfer'd to the
Circle, fhall be the diſtance of 30 Degrees in that
Circle. Do the like for any other number of De-
grees.
You may draw your Dyal firft on a large fheet
of Paper, if your Dyal Plane be fo large; if it be
not fo large, draw it on a ſmaller piece of Paper 3
Then rub the back-fide of your Paper Dyal with
finall Coal, till it be well black't; and laying your
Paper Dyal on your Dyal Plane, fo that the Eaſt
Welt, North, or South lines of your Paper agree
exactly with the Eaſt, Weſt, North or South fci-
tuation of your Dyal Plane; then with Wax or
Pitch faften the Corners of the Paper on the Plane,
and laying a ſtraight Ruler on the Hour-lines of
your Dyal, draw with the blunted point of a
Needle by the fide of the Ruler, and the Small-
coal rub'd on the back fide of the Paper will leave
a mark of the lines on the Plane.
*
If you will have the lines drawn Red, you may
rub the back ſide of your Paper with Vermillion
if blew with Verditer; if Yellow with Orpiment,
&c. Then draw upon theſe marked Lines with
Oyl Colours, as you pleaſe.
350 MECHANICK DYALLING
1
氲
​If your Dyal Decline far towards the Eaft or
Weft, the Hour Lines (unleſs projected to a very
great lenght) will run very cloſe to one another
therefore in this caſe you muſt project your Dyal
;
1
VI VI VILIX X
on a large Table, or fometimes on the Floor of a
Room, and cut it off as far as you think good,
from the Center; for the further from the Cen-
ter, the larger the diftance of the Hour-lines.
See the Figure.
An Explanation of fome Words of Art uſed in this.
ANgle. The meeting or joyning of two Lines.
Arch. A part of a Circle.
Axis. The ftraight Line that runs through the
Center of a Sphere, and both ways through the
Circumference: though in Dyalling it is all one
with the Diameter of a Circle.
If
Clinatory. See Fol. 8, 9, 10.
Chord. See Fol. 44,45,46.
Į
fe Complement. The number that is wanting to
make up another number 90 Degr. or 180 Degr.
or 360 Degrees.
Con
II
P47
MECHANICK DYALLING 35E
Contingent. A Line croſſing the Subftile at right
Angles.
Degree. See Fol, 12.
Diameter. The longeft ftraight Line that can
be contained within a Circle, viz. the Line that
paſſes through the Center to the Circumference
both ways.
Dyal plane. See Fol. 7:
Elevation of the Pole. So many degrees as the
Pole is elevated above the Horizon.
Equinoctial. The Equinoctial is a great Circle.
that runs evenly between the two Poles of the
World. But when we name the Equinoctial in
this Book, we mean a fmall Circle which repre-
fents it, and is the Crcle or Arch of a Circle
which is divided into equal parts, to find thereby
the unequal parts on the Line of Contingence. In
the Horizontal Dyal it is that Arch of a Circle
marked GCH.
Horizon. Is a great Circle encompaffing the
place we ſtand upon; but in Dyalling it is repre-
fented by a ſtraight Line, as in Operat. III. In the
South Dyal the Line VI A VI is the Horizontal Line.
Latitude. The Latitude of a Place is the num-
ber of Degrees contained between the Equinoctial
and the place inquired after.
Line of Contingence. See Contingent.
Magnetick Needle. The Needle touch'd with
the Loadstone, to make it point to the North.
Meridian. Isa great Circle of Heaven paffing thro'
the North and South points of the Horizon; but
in Dyalling it is reprefented by a ftraight Line, as
in Operat. II. in the Horizontal Dyal the Line XII.
A is a Meridian line.
Nadir. The point directly under our Feet.
Nautical Compass. Is the Compaſs uſed by Na-
vigators, whereon is marked out all the 32 Winds
or Points of the Compafs.
Oblique
352 MECHANICK DTALLING,
Oblique Plane. See Fol. 7.
Parallel. See Fol. 6.
Perpendiculer See Fol. 5.
Pole. The North or South Points on the Globe
of the Earth, are called North or South Pole.
Quadrant. The fourth Part of a Circle.
Radius. Half the Diameter of a Circle:
Right Angle A ftraight Line that falls Perpen-
diculerly upon another ftraight line, makes at the
meeting of thoſe two Lines a Right Angle.
Semi-Circle. Half a Circle.
Semi-Diameter. The fame Radius is.
Sphere. The higheſt Heaven with all its ima-
gined Circle, is called the Sphere.
Stile. The Gnomon or Cock of a Dyal.
Subftile. The line the Stile ftands on upon a
Dyal Plane.
Triangle. A Figure confifting of 3 Sides and 3
Angles.
Zenith. The point Directly over our Head,
FINIS
ERRATA.
Page Line
148 14
Foinery $17
18
Ibid
$ 19
iso
8
Ibid
§ 31
Ibid
9
$ 4
lbid
17
$ 2
153
23
Ibid
§ 17, 18, 19,
154
2
75
155 35
23
156
25
223
29
3 Î
9
Smithing Plate 2 Fig. 1.
Ibid
Ibid
Foinery
Carpentry
Ibid
Foinery
Carpentry
Ibid
Foinery
Ibid
159
33
ibi
24
162
ら
​25
Ibid
-
164
· 169
177
30
183
187 10
m m
31
Ibid
30
Ibid
Ι
Ibid
9
Carpentry
Foinery
Fol. 18
Fol. 26, 27.
Smithing Fol. 61, 82.
192
19
Ibid 31, 32, 33, 34.
195
21
Foinery
23
Carpentry
196 15
Foinery
199
S
Carpentry
200 25
Turning
206 14
Ibid
207 3
Ibid
208
Ibids
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in Algebra. Allo the Definition and Ufe of the Prin-
cipal Mathematical Inftruments, and the Inftruments
thenfelves curioudly engraven on Copper.
Both by J. Raphfon, F. R. S.
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and her Place truly calculare to Two Minutes. Writ
ten by that Incomparable Mathematician Mr. Ifaac
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