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JUDA A méhẩm qurig sang
và an ninh nhân

FIFTH AVENUE HOTEL. N.Y.
RORAIM
100
PROAP KOHEN THE ST
111
24 JE TEHN
Ľ
Keeps continually on hand the largest and best variety, in this country, of
FASHIONABLE
UNION ADAMS,
HOSIER, GLOVER, AND SHIRT MAKER,
No. 637 BROADWAY,
New York City,
FURNISHING GOODS,
FOR
Adapted to the Seasons,
SPRING, SUMMER, FALL, AND WINTER.
LADIES, GENTLEMEN, AND CHILDREN,
F
211
NTI
UNION ADAMS,
A65
1866
Importing and manufacturing largely, we CAN and WILL offer superior induce-
ments to every patron.
No. 637 BROADWAY,
New York City,
a
HOME
Jusurance Company of New York,
OFFICE, NO. 135 BROADWAY.
CASH CAPITAL,.
ASSETS, 1st January, 1866,
LIABILITIES,…
GEO. C. COLLINS .
DA NFORD N. BARNEY
LUCIUS HOPKINS
THOMAS MESSENGER.
WILLIAM H. MELLEN.
HOMER MORGAN.
LEVI P. STONE.
JAMES HUMPHREY
GEO. PEARCE…
WARD A. WORK
JAMES LOW….
ISAAC H. FROTHINGHAM.
CHARLES A. BULKLEY.
The HOME INSURANCE COMPANY continues to Insure against LOSS or DAMAGE by
FIRE and the DANGERS of INLAND NAVIGATION and TRANSPORTATION, on terms as
favorable as the nature of the risks and the real security of the Insured and of the Company will
warrant.
LOSSES EQUITABLY ADJUSTED AND PROMPTLY PAID.
DIRECTORS:
·
•
•
……….
GEO. D. MORGAN..
OLIVER E. WOOD..
ALFRED S. BARNES.
GEORGE BLISS..
ROE LOCKWOOD.
LEVI P. MORTON.
CURTIS NOBLE.
J. B. HUTCHINSON.
CHARLES P. BALDWIN.
AMOS T. DWIGHT……..
HENRY A. HURLBUT
JESSE HOYT.
WILLIAM STURGIS.
JOHN R. FORD………
GEORGE T. STEDMAN
SIDNEY MASON….
DAVID I. BOYD.
CHARLES J. MARTIN..
ARTHUR F. WILLMARTH.
F. H. COSSITT..
WILLIAM R. FOSDICK.
LEWIS ROBERTS…….
8. B. CALDWELL.
A. J. WILLS……
WM. H. TOWNSEND.
P. C. VAN SCHAICK
THOMAS T. BUCKLEY.
JAMES S. STURGES
OLIVER S. CARTER..
HENRY M. TABER..
...
·
··
•
……….
· •
··
•
•
•
..
•
•
•
..of Geo. C. Collins & Co.
Pres. of Wells, Fargo & Co.'s Express.
..of Hopkins, Dwight & Trowbridge.
of T. & H. Messenger.
late Claflin, Mellen & Co.
•
..late Stone, Starr & Co.
late Barney, IIumphrey & Butler.
of Geo. Pearce & Co.
***
.of Bulkley & Co.
.late of E. D. Morgan & Co.
..of O. E. Wood & Co.
•
$2,000,000 00
3,598,674 14
153,746 24
•
•
of Ward A. Work & Son.
.of Low, Harriman & Durfee.
.President Union Trust Company.
.of L. P. Morton & Co.
..of Noble & Douglass.
.of J. C. Howe & Co., Boston.
..of Baldwin, Starr & Co.
.of Jesse Hoyt & Co.
..late Sturgis, Shaw & Co.
..late Ford Rubber Co.
•
of Stedman, Carlisle & Shaw, Cincinnati.
•
.late Mason & Thompson
of Boyd, Brothers & Co., Albany.
.. President.
JOHN MCGEE, Secretary.
J. H. WASHBURN, Ass't-Secretary.
of A. S. Barnes & Co.
.of George Bliss & Co.
.late R. Lockwood & Son.
.of Hopkins, Dwight & Trowbridge.
late Swift, Hurlbut & Co.
Vice-President.
•
..of Cossit, Hill & Co., Memphis.
.President of St. Nicholas National Bank.
.of L. Roberts & Co.
of Caldwell & Morris.
.of Thomson & Wills.
of Henrys, Smith & Townsend.
.of Van Schaick & Edwards.
•
of Buckley, Sheldon & Co.
of Sturges & Co.
..of Carter & Hawley.
. of C. C. & II. M. Taber.
CHAS. J. MARTIN, President.
A. F. WILLMARTH, Vice-President.
b

NORTH AMERICAN
FIRE INSURANCE COMPANY,
OF THE CITY OF NEW YORK,
INCORPORATED 1823.
CASH CAPITAL, $500,000.
GLAM GE
C
NORTH AMERICAN FIRE INSURANCE COMPANY NYLIFE
114
1142
REXSTILLSAMME
OLDEW2 111
OPOLITAN BANK
RICHARDSON.SC
Cash Capital Surplus Jan. 1, 1866, $751,653.57.
Fire Insurance Exclusively.
Insures Property against loss and damage by Fire at usual rates. The assured par-
ticipate in the profits of business without incurring any liability.
R. W. BLEECKER, Secretary.
JAMES W. OTIS, President.
J. GRISWOLD, General Agent.
Main Office, No. 114 Broadway, New York. Branch Office, No. 10 Cooper Institute.
C
DUNCAN, SHERMAN & CE
CO.,
BANKERS,
Cor. of Pine and Nassau Sts., New York,
CIRCULAR LETTERS OF CREDIT AND CIRCULAR NOTES
AVAILABLE IN ALL THE PRINCIPAL CITIES OF THE WORLD.
ISSUE
FOR TRAVELLERS,
MERCANTILE CREDITS
For Europe, South America, India, China, &c., on Messrs. FINLAY,
HODGSON & Co., of London.
Sydney,
New Castle,
DRAFTS AND CREDITS FOR AUSTRALIA,
ON THE BANK OF NEW SOUTH WALES, OF LONDON.
NEW SOUTH WALES.
Ipswich,
Windsor,
ALSO,
Branches and Agencies at
Maitland,
Brisbane,
Bathurst,
&c., &c.
VICTORIA BRANCHES.
Melbourne,
Kyneton,
Ballaarat,
&c., &c.
Geelong,
Castlemain,
Sandhurst,
&c., &c.
ALSO,
DRAFTS ON SAN FRANCISCO.
d

H. H. CASEY,
BY TEX (Late J. & C. BERRIAN,)
IMPORTER AND DEALER IN EVERY DESCRIPTION OF
HOUSE FURNISHING WARE ROOMS.
House Furnishing Hardware,
601 BROADWAY.
NEW YORK
BELTING AND PACKING CO.,
MANUFACTURERS OF
VULCANIZED RUBBER FABRICS,
ADAPTED TO MECHANICAL PURPOSES.
Patent Smooth Belting (Patented Nov. 22, 1859), vulcanized between layers of
a patent metallic alloy, by which the stretch is entirely taken out, the surface made
perfectly smooth, and the substance thoroughly and evenly vulcanized. This is the
only process that will make reliable Rubber Belting.
Hose never needs oiling, and is warranted to stand any required pressure.
Steam Packing in every variety, and warranted to stand 300° of heat.
SOLID EMERY VULCANITE.
Wheels made of this are solid, and resemble stone or iron; will wear out hun-
dreds of the ordinary wheels.
Directions, Prices, &c., can be obtained by Mail, or otherwise.
JOHN H. CHEEVER, Treasurer.
Warehouse, 37 and 38 Park Row, New York.
e

THE STANDARD
AMERICAN BILLIARD TABLES,
Approved and Adopted by the Billiard Congress of 1863.
BEST
PHELANS
ATENT
THE
ONLY RELIABLE BILLIARD TABLES MANUFACTURED.
The most eminent players and most compe-
tent judges have given their unqualified approv-
al to these tables, and have publicly acknowl-
edged their unequalled merit.
We have seven separate Patents for our
COMBINATION CUSHIONS from the U. S. Patent
Office. The French Government have lately
granted a patent for the same admirable inven-
tion.
ww
AND THE
We devote our whole time and attention to
the perfection and improvement of the machin-
ery of Billiards, and no other house can so
readily and perfectly fill orders for all articles
in the Billiard line. There is no other house
where the machinery of Billiards is so fully un-
derstood.
We have always on hand an extensive as-
sortment of tables, made of the finest material,
thoroughly seasoned. The workmanship is of
the most scientific and accurate description, no
labor or expense being spared to sustain the
reputation already achieved by Phelan's Tables.
Orders by mail carefully and promptly ex-
ecuted. Illustrated catalogues and price lists
sent by mail. The BILLIARD CUE, a monthly
journal, published in the interest of Billiards,
and containing details of all novelties, a copi-
ous monthly record of Billiard news, and every
thing of interest to the amateurs of Billiards,
sent free on application.
PHELAN & COLLENDER,
63, 65, 67 & 69 CROSBY STREET, NEW YORK.
f
L. T. BROWNELL,
(Late BROWNELL & MARVIN,)
MANUFACTURER OF

FINE CLOTHING,
READY-MADE AND TO ORDER,
EXPRESSLY FOR THE RETAIL TRADE,
FOR MEN'S AND BOYS' WEAR.
Gentlemen can find at all times on hand an extensive stock of
TRAVELLING SUITS.
A complete and varied stock of
Men's Furnishing Goods & Under Wear.
OUR CUSTOM DEPARTMENT
IS AT ALL TIMES FULL OF FOREIGN SPECIALTIES.
Our PRICES at all times moderate.
ST. NICHOLAS BLOCK, 503 BROADWAY.
·
9

FOR SAVANNAH,
Savannah.
AVP DODDERS
AM.SS.CO
CEORGIA,
THE ELEGANT SIDE-WHEEL STEAMSHIPS
SAN SALVADOR,
1,500 Tons Burthen, ATKINS, Commander, and
SAN JACINTO,
1,500 Tons Burthen, LOVELAND, Commander,
Have been placed permanently on this route, and are offered to the travelling public as more com-
modious and comfortable in their appointments than any other vessels in the trade.
SAIL EVERY SATURDAY at 3 o'clock, P. M.,
Landing Passengers in SAVANNAH invariably on Tuesday following. Returning,
Leave SAVANNAH every SATURDAY, arriving in New York Tuesdays.
Passengers for Northern Alabama, Florida, and points South, on the coast, and those to whom
time is an object, will consult their interests and promote their comfort by taking this route.
These vessels, although of large carrying capacity, are enabled, by their light draught of water, to
insure no detention in the Savannah River. For passage or Freight apply to
BHT
GARRISON & ALLEN, Agents,
No. 5 Bowling Green, New York City.
Goods for the interior of Georgia and Florida forwarded by B. H. HARDEE, Agent at
NEW ORLEANS: 104 COMMON STREET.
FOR NEW ORLEANS DIRECT.
ATLANTIC AND MISSISSIPPI S. S. LINE.-FIRST-CLASS STEAMSHIPS AND SUPE-
RIOR ACCOMMODATIONS FOR PASSENGERS. $40 FIRST CABIN PASSAGE.
SAILING EVERY WEDNESDAY.
Running in connection with the Atlantic and Mississippi S. S. Co., of St. Louis, to all points
on the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers. Through Bills of Lading given for Freight.
One of the elegant steamers of this new Line will sail every week from New York and New
Orleans, carrying passengers at the low rate of $40 currency.
GARRISON & ALLEN, Agents,
h
5 BOWLING GREEN, NEW YORK.

THE UNITED STATES AND BRAZIL
A.M.SS.CO.
DODDOU
MAIL STEAMSHIP COMPANY,
UNDER CONTRACT
With the Governments of the United States and Brazil,
Will despatch one of their new, first-class steamships, each over 2,000 tons burthen,
on the 29th of every month, from the Port of New York for the following named
Ports, and the following rates of passage, payable in coin, or its equivalent in United
States currency:
NEW YORK TO
. $80
BAHIA.....
. $180
$ 150 RIO DE JANEIRO.......... 200
.170
ST. THOMAS.
PARA.........
PERNAMBUCO....
Steerage at half these rates; meals and bedding included.
An experienced Surgeon attached to each vessel.
All letters must pass through the Post-Office. Postage 10 cents.
For further information, Freight or Passage, apply to
GARRISON & ALLEN, Agents,
No. 5 BOWLING GREEN, N. Y.
UNITED STATES MAIL LINE TO HAVANA.
The elegant, new Steamships
MORRO CASTLE, EAGLE, and COLUMBIA,
Built expressly for the trade, and having most superior accommodations, will con-
tinue to run regularly to HAVANA, sailing from Pier 4 North River, every WED-
NESDAY, at 3 o'clock P. M. Returning, leave Havana every SATURDAY.
For further information, Freight or Passage, apply to
GARRISON & ALLEN, Agents,
No. 5 BOWLING GREEN, NEW YORK.
i
D. RUSSELL,
MERCHANT TAILOR,
835 BROADWAY,
(CORNER 13TH STREET.)
**
I receive during the season, direct, the latest London styles of Goods, selected
from the best West End houses.
IMPORTANT TO TRAVELLERS.
MAKS
NEW YORK.
BINOCULAR LANDSCAPE GLASSES.
Invaluable to Sportsmen, Officers, Travellers, etc.
Compact, Portable, Efficient,
Combining extraordinary defining power and wide field of
observation.

Spectacles, Eye-Glasses, Railway Protectors, etc., to
strengthen and improve the sight of old and young, without
the distressing results of frequent changes, in endless variety, by the manufacturer and
inventor.
SEMMONS, Oculist-Optician,
669¹½ Broadway, Under Lafarge House.
MINERAL SPRING WATERS,
Dispensed by the glass, as well as sold in bottle, at
808 BROADWAY, Opposite Eleventh Street.
Kissingen, preferred to Congress; Vichy, Antacid; Pyrmont, Chalyb
eate, and every other for which there is adequate demand.
HANBURY SMITH, M. D.
j
D. APPLETON & COMPANY'S
PUBLICATIONS FOR
Tourists and
and Commercial Travellers
APPLETONS' HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN
TRAVEL, being a Guide, by Railway, Steamboat, and Stage, to the Cities,
Towns, Battle-fields, Waterfalls, Mountains, Rivers, Lakes, Hunting and Fish-
ing Grounds, Watering Places, Summer Resorts, and all Scenes and Objects of
Importance and Interest in the United States and British Provinces. Edited
by EDWARD H. HALL. Accompanied by Maps of all Parts of the Country,
and the principal Rivers.
"
The SOUTHERN TOUR is now ready; NORTHERN and EASTERN TOUR in
press. The two volumes, bound in one, will be published May 1st, 1867.
OFFICIAL
OFFICIAL
APPLETONS'
ILLUSTRATED
RAILWAY GUIDE, containing the Time-Tables of the Railways of the
United States and Canadas; also, One Hundred Railway Maps, representing
the principal Railways of the Country; their Stations, Distances, and Con-
nections. Important Instructions to Railway Travellers in reference to Time-
Tables, Checking Baggage, and Purchasing Tickets; together with monthly
account of Railways and their Progress, etc., etc. Compiled by G. F.
THOMAS. Published semi-monthly, under the supervision of the Railway
Companies. 1 vol., 360 pages.
THE GREAT WEST: Railway, Steamboat, and
Stage Guide and Hand-Book, for Travellers, Miners, and Emigrants to the
Western, Northwestern, and Pacific States and Territories. With a Map of
the best Routes to the Gold and Silver Mines. By EDWARD H. HALL. One
volume, 12mo. Paper covers, price 50 cents; cloth, price $1.00.
For Sale by all Booksellers.
k
THE TRAVELLER'S ALMANAC
1866.
JULY.
AUG.
SEPT.
Ост.
Nov.
DEC.
FOR
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
8 91011121314
15 16 17 18 19 20 21
22 23 24 25 26 27 28
29 30 31
1866-1867.
1 2 3 4
567891011
12131415161718
19 20 21 22 23 24 25
26 27 28 29 30 31
2 3 4 5 6 7 8
9101112131415
16 17 18 19 20 21 22
|23 24 25 26 27 28 29
30
1 2 3 4 5 6
78910111213
14 15 16 17 18 19 20
21 22 23 24 25 26 27
28 29 30 31
•
1 2 3
4 5 6 7 8 910
11121314151617
18 19 20 21 22 23 24
25 26 27 28 29 30
•
1
2 3 4 5 6 7 8
9101112131415
16171819202122
23 24 25 26 27 28 29
30 31
1867.
JAN.
FEB.
MAR.
APRIL.
MAY.
JUNE.
2345
6 7 8 9101112
13141516171819
20 21 22 23 24 25 26
27 28 29 30 31
1 2
3 4 5 6 7 8 9
10111213141516
17 18 19 20 21 22 23
24 25 26 27 28
•
T
• •
•
1 2
3 4 5 6 7 8 9
10111213141516
17 18 19 20 21 22 23
24 25 26 27 28 29 30
31
•
1 2 3 4 5 6
78910111213
14 15 16 17 18 19 20
21 22 23 24 25 26 27
28 29 30
• •
1234
5 6 7 8 9 10 11
12 13 14 15 16 17 18
19 20 21 22 23 24 25
26 27 28 29 30 31
1
2 3 4 5 6 7 8
9101112131415
16171819202122
23 24 25 26 27 28 29
30
•
•
•
1
THE TRAVELLER'S MEMORANDUM.
*
* *The traveller is respectfully solicited to note all errors
and omissions which he may discover in this work, and any new
facts of interest, and to send such memoranda to the Editor,
care of the Publishers. Such communications must be accom-
panied by the name and address of the writer.
*
2
THE TRAVELLER'S MEMORANDUM.
THE TRAVELLER'S MEMORANDUM.
3
4
THE TRAVELLER'S MEMORANDUM.
THE TRAVELLER'S MEMORANDUM.
10
5
6
THE TRAVELLER'S MEMORANDUM.
THE TRAVELLER'S MEMORANDUM.
7
8
THE TRAVELLER'S MEMORANDUM.
1
T
K
THE TRAVELLER'S MEMORANDUM.
1
9
1
10
1
THE TRAVELLER'S MEMORANDUM.
I
•
THE TRAVELLER'S MEMORANDUM.
11
12
THE TRAVELLER'S MEMORANDUM.
፡
APPLETONS' HAND-BOOK
OF
AMERICAN TRAVEL.
THE SOUTHERN TOUR;
BEING A GUIDE THROUGH
69183


MARYLAND, DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, VIRGINIA, NORTH CAROLINA,
SOUTH CAROLINA, GEORGIA, FLORIDA, ALABAMA, MISSISSIPPI,
LOUISIANA, TEXAS, ARKANSAS, TENNESSEE, AND KENTUCKY.
WITH DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES OF
THE CITIES, TOWNS, WATERFALLS, BATTLE-FIELDS, MOUNTAINS, RIVERS, LAKES, HUNI-
ING AND FISHING GROUNDS, WATERING PLACES, SUMMER RESORTS, AND
ALL SCENES AND OBJECTS OF IMPORTANCE AND INTEREST.
WITH MAPS OF THE
LEADING ROUTES OF TRAVEL AND OF THE PRINCIPAL CITIES.
BY
EDWARD H. HALL.
"When thou haply seest
Some rare, noteworthy object in thy travels,
Make me partaker of thy happiness."-Shakspeare
NEW YORK:
D. APPLETON & CO., 443 & 445 BROADWAY.
LONDON: TRÜBNER & CO.
1866.
NOTICE.
No expense or labor will be spared to make the Hand-Book of American Travel
attractive, comprehensive, concise, and every way reliable.
The next Annual Edition will be published in June, 1867, and any information in
regard to errors and omissions, which those who use this portion of the work may
detect, or any facts of interest and value-particularly in respect to new routes and
accommodations-will be gratefully received and considered. Such communications
should be addressed to the Editor, care of the Publishers.
The Population of Cities and Towns mentioned in this work are those given in
the last National Census-1860-except when otherwise stated.
Advertisers wishing to change or discontinue their advertisements, will
please to inform the Editor to such effect, on or before April 1st of each year, that
the necessary alterations may be made in time for the new edition.
The Editor of "Appletons' Hand-book" is alone responsible for the information
contained in its pages. No other person is authorized to procure advertisements, or
receive money or other favors from Hotel-keepers or Tradesmen on account of the
Hand-book, as recommendations in this work are not to be purchased; they are the
result of personal experience or disinterested information only, and when houses
here represented fail to fulfil their obligations to the public, they will be stricken from
its pages.
ENTERED, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1866, by
D. APPLETON & CO.,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of
New York.
08-1-28 3/
reel 8-1-2F BF
CONTENTS.
INTRODUCTORY REMARKS,
Some Parting Words to the Traveller, of Explanation and Advice,
Plan of the Book,
Money,
Travelling Expenses,
Baggage,
Hotels,
Waiters, etc.,
Tickets,
Outfits, Costumes,
Steamship Lines,
Fine Arts, etc.,
Where to Go, Skeleton Tours, etc.,
Obligations,
The Traveller's Almanac, Memoranda, etc.,
THE SOUTHERN TOUR.
MARYLAND. Historical Sketch; Baltimore; Map; Vicinity; Chesapeake
Bay; Baltimore and Ohio Railway; Places and Objects of Interest,
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. Washington City; Map; Vicinity; Alexan-
dria; Mount Vernon; Defences,
VIRGINIA. Historical Sketch; Railways; Richmond; Norfolk; Williams-
burg; Fredericksburg; Lynchburg; Lexington; Charlottesville; Mon-
ticello; Winchester; Wheeling; the Springs; Natural Bridge,
NORTH CAROLINA. Raleigh, Wilmington, and other Cities; Mountain
Region; Objects of Interest,
iii
PAGE
Þ Þ
V
vi
vi
vi
vii
vii
viii
ix
X
X
xi
xiii
1-20
21-34
35-53
54-58
!
CONTENTS.
SOUTH CAROLINA. Historical Sketch; Railways; Charleston and Vi-
cinity; Map; Beaufort and the Lowlands; Mountain Villages and
Scenery; Yorkville and Vicinity,
GEORGIA. Historical Sketch; the Savannah, Oconee, and other Rivers;
Railways; Savannah and Vicinity; Augusta; Atlanta; Macon; Mil-
ledgeville, and other Cities; the Mountain Region; Toccoa and Tal-
lulah; the Springs,
FLORIDA. Historical Sketch; St. John's and St. Mary's Rivers; St. Au-
gustine and Vicinity; Jacksonville; Pilatka; Tallahassee; Appala-
chicola, etc.; Routes, etc.,
ALABAMA. The Alabama, Tombigbee, and other Rivers; Railways;
Mobile and Vicinity; Montgomery; Tuscaloosa; Huntsville, and
other Cities; the Hill region,
MISSISSIPPI. Its Rivers and Railways; Jackson; Vicksburg; Natchez;
Holly Springs, etc.,
LOUISIANA. Historical Sketch; New Orleans and Vicinity; Map; the
Creoles;
the Carnival; Railways and Routes; Baton Rouge,
TEXAS. Its Rivers; Railway Routes; Galveston; Austin; Houston;
San Antonio,
ARKANSAS. Little Rock; Fort Smith; Camden,
TENNESSEE. Rivers; Railways; Nashville and Vicinity; Memphis;
Chattanooga, and Lookout Mountain, etc.,
•
KENTUCKY. Historical Sketch; the Cumberland and Kentucky Rivers;
Railways; Louisville and Vicinity; Frankfort; Covington; Lexing-
ton, and other Towns; "Ashland" and "Woodburn,"
THE OHIO RIVER. From Pittsburg to Cairo; Map; Table of Distances;
Cincinnati and Vicinity,
THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. From Cairo to New Orleans; Map; St. Louis
and Vicinity; Places and Objects of Interest,
iv
PAGE
59-72
73-84
85-90
91-95
96-98
99-111
112-116
117-118
119-123
124-133
134-137
138-142
INTRODUCTION.
THE PLAN OF THE BOOK.
In preparing the ninth year's issue of "Appleton's Hand-book," the editor
has thought it best to continue the original plan of the work, and follow
the familiar geographical order of the several States, as that best adapted to
the special tastes and convenience of travellers wishing to visit the respective
points and objects of interest. Thus, in making the "Southern Tour," the
traveller starting from New York finds his true "point of departure" at Bal-
timore, in the chapter on Maryland. Continuing his route thence by steamer
or rail, the Guide accompanies him through Virginia and the Carolinas to
the Gulf coast, and up the valley of the Lower Mississippi, till he finally
reaches Louisville, Cincinnati, or St. Louis, on his return northward. Instead
of selecting a particular route, and seeing all it offers of attraction, we have,
with few exceptions, jumped at once to our especial destination, and then
intimated the way by which it is reached. Thus, if the traveller happens to
be in New York and desires to go to New Orleans, he will, by turning to
New Orleans, in the chapter on Louisiana, find the routes thither. The chief
cities are taken as starting-points for all other and lesser places in their
neighborhood. Thus Richmond is made the point of radiation for Virginia;
Charleston and Columbia for South Carolina; Nashville for Tennessee, and
so on. It has not, of course, been possible to mention every village or town
in the South, in the narrow limits of a pocket-volume like this. Sketches
of many places which, owing to their difficulty of access in the present dis-
rupted condition of the railroads, are unavoidably left out, will, it is hoped,
appear in future editions of the work.
MONEY.
United States Treasury notes (greenbacks) are everywhere current through-
out the South, the assertions of the "reliable" gentlemen who have testified
V
}
!
I
INTRODUCTION.
before the Reconstruction Committee at Washington City to the contrary
notwithstanding. Gold and silver readily pass, but as they command a pre-
mium in the North, and are, moreover, less portable than paper, they are less
desirable for the traveller's use. The notes of Northern banks should, on no
account, be taken, as they may sometimes subject the holder to annoyance.
The safest and most convenient shape in which to put your money for current
expenses on your trip is that of letters of credit or circular notes the former
are preferable. These are issued by the leading banking-houses in New York
and elsewhere in the United States. The well-known banking firm of Duncan
Sherman & Company issue such letters, payable in all the principal Southern
cities. Their announcement will be found in our advertising columns. A
reasonable supply of fractional currency ("stamps ") will save the traveller
frequent inconvenience in making change at railway stations, omnibus
stands, etc.
TRAVELLING EXPENSES.
This is a sufficiently important feature of the trip to merit a separate con-
sideration. The cost of living and travelling through the South has materi-
ally increased since the war. Six to seven dollars a day will be found a fair
estimate. (For hotel expenses, see Hotels.)
BAGGAGE.
"As little baggage as possible" is always a good rule, though a liberal
supply is permitted on the railways, and almost any quantity on the steam-
boats. On the stages the prescribed limit of sixty or eighty pounds cannot
be exceeded without extra charge. The "check" system, so universally
practised throughout the North, has been pretty generally adopted on the
Southern lines of railway. Many of the omnibus lines in the Southern
cities are reaping an ill-gotten harvest by imposing on the ignorance and
credulity of strangers in this regard. As a general rule, the traveller will
best consult his own convenience and interest by retaining his check until he
arrives at his destination, and then proceeding to his hotel in a carriage with
his baggage. If you purchase an omnibus ticket you have, in most instances,
to pay separately for your baggage, either to the agent in the cars or in set-
tling your bill at the hotel. In travelling in a stage, or in making short trips
from the leading centres to the interior, a carpet-bag or small valise will be
found the most convenient form of baggage, as in many instances it will be
requisite for the traveller to play the part of porter.
HOTELS.
With few exceptions, the hotels of the principal cities South will compare
favorably with those of other sections of the country, and perforce with
vi
INTRODUCTION.
those of any other part of the world. Barnum's, in Baltimore, the Metro-
politan and Ebbett, in Washington, the Exchange and Ballard's, in Rich-
mond, the Mills House, in Charleston, the Pulaski and the Marshall House, in
Savannah, the St. Louis and St. Charles, in New Orleans, Louisville, in Louis-
ville, and the Southern and Lindell Hotels, in St. Louis, are all strictly first-
class establishments. The charges at these houses range from $3.50 to $5.00
per day, which includes every thing except private parlors, wines, and extra
attendance. Four dollars per day, or $28.00 a week, will be found a safe
average. Other houses of good repute, having the best hotel accommodation
the several cities afford, will be found throughout the work. In New York,
the Fifth Avenue Hotel and the Hoffman House, on Madison Square at the in-
tersection of Broadway and Fifth Avenue, and the Everett House, occupying a
conspicuous and delightful locale at the north end of Union Square, are the
most desirable houses in the metropolis. From the observatory of the Fifth
Avenue Hotel a fine view of the city and the neighboring bay is to be had. The
house is fitted with a passenger-elevator, or vertical railway, for the use of
guests. Those fond of the quiet and retirement of private life, combined with
the luxuries of hotel cuisine, will find the Everett a desirable stopping-place.
The Hoffman House has been recently (1865) opened, and the furniture is new
and of the best quality. The Hoffman is conducted on the European plan. The
cuisine and attendance are excellent. For those who decide to make a stay in
Philadelphia on their way South, the Continental is the most desirable hotel.
The well-known reputation of this fine house is well sustained by its present
management, Messrs. Kingsley & Co. Newly-married couples will find this a
most inviting resting-place on their winter tour South.
WAITERS OR SERVANTS.
It is not the custom in America, as in Europe, to fee waiters at the hotels,
though it may very properly be done for especial personal service. It is
often done by those who prefer hot dinners to cold when they happen to
come late,” or who may have a fancy for some rare dish when it unluckily
happens to be "all out." Waiters, especially the "unprofessionals," who
largely outnumber the "regular hands," are frequently guilty of impertinences
in large popular hotels. A word to the steward or head-waiter, a function-
ary always at hand in every well-regulated hotel, will speedily put matters
right. On the other hand, let gentlemen remember that it is impossible for a
waiter, however proficient, to wait on more than one at a time and do it
well. By due attention to these matters, much needless annoyance will be
saved.
TICKETS.
Tickets on the railways should be purchased at the railway office before
starting, otherwise a small additional charge will be made. If a long journey
vii
INTRODUCTION.
over various roads is intended, it is cheaper and more convenient to buy a
through ticket to the end of the route, or for as long a distance as possible.
What are called "lay-over" or accommodation tickets, affording opportunities
to the traveller to visit points of interest on his line of route, can always be ob-
tained on the leading through-lines. On the steamboats the tickets for pas-
sage, for meals, and berths, can be purchased at leisure, after starting, at the
"captain's office."
OUTFITS, COSTUMES, ETC.
1
At the Virginia Springs and at the watering-places of the South gener-
ally, the same resources of toilet will be found necessary as in the city
salon or the most fashionable resorts of the North--that is for the ladies.
The gentlemen will best consult their own tastes and circumstances as regards
their wardrobe and outfit generally. Let me advise my reader, however,
whatever else he may omit to take, not to fail to supply himself with a trav-
elling suit equal to the wear and tear of rough mountain life. If the color
be a gray or a brown, so much the better in the dust of railway and stage
routes. Get a felt hat-it does not crush itself on your head in car or carriage,
or blow overboard on steamboats. Storm, 178 Broadway, under the Howard
Hotel, has a fine assortment. Leave thin boots (this especially to the ladies)
at home, and go well and comfortably shod in stout calfskin. It is a pity to
be kept in-doors by the fear of spoiling one's gaiters or wetting one's feet,
when the meadows and hills and brooks are inviting you abroad. In moun-
tain tramps, a generous-sized flask may be swung over the shoulder with very
picturesque effect. If filled with generous "cognac," beware of too pictu-
resque an effect, especially if you be in the company of a certain party.
In the way of clothing, the traveller cannot do better than call on
Mr. D. Russell, No. 835 Broadway, corner of Thirteenth Street. All the gar-
ments made by this long-established and well-known house are adapted to
the wants of gentlemen of taste who appreciate style and quality in clothing.
Brownell (late Brownell & Marvin), at No. 503 Broadway, in the St.
Nicholas block, keeps a fine assortment of ready-made clothing.
A good trunk is an indispensable article of outfit for either lady or gen-
tleman. Messrs. J. T. Smith & Co., at 344 Broadway, have the most exten-
sive assortment in the city, embracing every kind of travelling package from
the largest-sized "Saratoga" down to the smallest valise, carpet-sack, and
haversack. Their goods are of the best quality and make.
Edwin A. Brooks' boot and shoe store is at 575 Broadway, convenient to
the principal hotels. His stock of ready-made custom-work is large, and his
fits are warranted. By leaving their measure, parties going into the interior
can be supplied at any given point.
Mr. Union Adams, at No. 637 Broadway, offers opportunities of making
viii
INTRODUCTION.
selections in gentlemen's furnishing goods unequalled elsewhere in New
York. His stock is large and rich, embracing every thing in that line re-
quired by the most fastidious. His assortment of shawls, travelling-bags,
negligé shirts, scarfs, ties, etc., is especially complete.
Berrian's house-furnishing store, on Broadway, is an excellent place to
purchase goods.
INSURANCE.
Having laid in your necessary supplies, it only remains for you to insure
yourself against accidents by sea or land, and the editor of the "Hand-book "
having had recent experience in that line, would advise you not to omit to in-
sure. The "Accide Insurance Company " of New York is a reliable company.
This office issues policies against death, and compensation in case of disabling
injury, as well as against death only. Policies are issued good for one year,
one month, or one day. Mr. Edward Greene, 141 Broadway, is the secre-
tary of the company.
STEAMSHIP LINES.
The several lines of passenger steamships running between New York
and Baltimore and the Southern ports afford, except during inclement weather,
the most pleasant means of reaching Richmond, Wilmington, Charles-
ton, Savannah, Mobile, New Orleans, or Galveston. The leading and best-
conducted lines of steamers now in operation from New York to Southern
domestic ports are the following:
For Norfolk, City Point, and Richmond.-The steamers of the Old Line
(New York and Virginia Company) sail every Wednesday and Saturday at
3 P. M. for Norfolk and all points on the James River. The boats are com-
modious and well-officered. G. Heineken & Palmore, 115 Broadway, agents.
The boats of the Atlantic Coast Mail Company leave same days at noon.
Livingston, Fox & Co., 88 Liberty Street, agents.
From Baltimore, Leary & Co.'s "New Line" of steamers offer every in-
ducement to travellers.
27
For Charleston.-The Messrs. Leary despatch one of their fine steamers
from Pier No. 14, E. R., every Saturday at 3 o'clock. The "Quaker City'
has first-class accommodations for cabin passengers.
For Savannah.-Messrs. Garrison & Allen, 5 Bowling Green, and Living-
ston, Fox & Co., despatch regular steamers weekly for Savannah, where im-
mediate connection is made with the boats leaving that port for St. Augus-
tine, Pilatka, and other points in Florida. The favorite sidewheel steamship
"San Jacinto" belongs to the former, and the "Hermann Livingston" to
the latter line. Invalids bound for the Florida water-cures have ample
choice between the boats comprising either of these fine lines.
For New Orleans.-Cromwell's line of first-class steamships, one of which
I
ix
INTRODUCTION.
leaves Pier No. 9, N. R., every Saturday at 3 P. M., has the confidence of the
public. The Coastwise Company also despatch a steamer every Wednesday
from Pier No. 29, foot of Warren Street. Mr. D. N. Carrington, at 177
West Street, is the agent.
For California.-The best line for San Francisco and all points on the
South Pacific and Central American ports is unquestionably that of the
Pacific Mail Steamship Company. It is a through line, connecting at Panama
with the company's line of steamers on the Pacific. Three departures each
month, viz., on the 1st, 11th, and 21st. The boats of this line are appointed,
equipped, and officered equal to the best European steamships. The passage
to San Francisco is made by the steamers of the Pacific Mail Company in
twenty-two days. The general office of the line is over the new banking-
house of Messrs. Brown Brothers, in Wall Street, below William. Shipping
and ticket office Pier No. 42, foot of Canal Street.
FINE ARTS, ETC.
The fine-arts galleries of the Bendann Brothers (branch of the well-
known Baltimore establishment) have just been located on Fifth Avenue,
corner of Seventeenth Street. Their pictures are executed in the highest
style of photographic art. Brady's pictures are too well known to need
more than a passing mention here. His galleries, at 785 Broadway, opposite
Stewart's, contain the finest collection of war views, in the shape of photo-
graphic pictures, to be found in New York.
Semmons, at 6691 Broadway, under the Lafarge Hotel, has the best as-
sortment of field, marine, and opera glasses to be found in New York.
To the citizens of New York, not less than to those visiting it during
the spring and early summer months, mineral waters and baths have become
a necessity. Dr. Hanbury Smith's famous mineral-water establishment,
"The Spa," is pleasantly and centrally located at No. 808 Broadway, near its
intersection with Eleventh Street. Its health-giving waters, agrecable
shade, and proximity to other objects of interest, combine to make it one of
the pleasantest lounging-places of the metropolis. The best baths in the city
are those conducted by Dr. Gutmann, at 25 East Fourth Street.
OBLIGATIONS, ETC.
Those only who have had frequent occasion to use Guides and Hand-
books of travel have any adequate idea of the labor necessary to produce
them. How far the ordinary duties of the editor have been increased by the
changes incident to the late war, can only be known to himself. That
they have been very largely augmented will readily be believed. While the
following pages are mainly the result of personal observation, much of the
matter has been gleaned from the experience of others. For the attainment
X
INTRODUCTION.
of an object, apparently so hopeless, as the preparation, at this time, of a re-
liable Hand-book of Travel to the South, the author has found it necessary to
use every available source and means of information. Without such timely
aids it would, of course, have been impossible to prepare and publish such a
work. Our obligations are due to the entire Southern press for their unceas-
ing endeavors to keep us informed of the rapid changes going on in their
several communities, and for their numerous contributions to local and State
history, descriptive sketches, etc., etc.
We are also indebted to Mr. Eugene Piffet, of New Orleans, Mr. Sancier,
of Mobile, Mr. Linn, of Chattanooga, and other photographic artists of the
South, who kindly furnished us with views of prominent objects of interest
in their several localities. We regret that lack of space has compelled us to
exclude their contributions from our pages. It is decided to make future
issues of the Hand-book uniform in style and appearance with the present
work.
For much valuable information contained in the following pages we are
indebted to the recently-published Directories of New Orleans, Baltimore,
Mobile, Cincinnati, and Memphis.
Much of the historical matter relative to the battle-fields met with in our
tour South, is gleaned from the pages of the "Military and Naval History of
the Rebellion," edited by W. J. Tenney. Thankful to one and all for their
valuable assistance, we shall endeavor to merit a continuance of their favors.
SKELETON TOURS, Etc.
For the benefit of foreigners visiting this country, desirous of spending
the winter at the South, the following six weeks' tour through the frequented
portions of Georgia and Florida is inserted:
A Winter Tour of Six Weeks, visiting the Invalid Resorts of Florida, Sa-
vannah and Augusta, Ga., Charleston and Columbia, S. C., Richmond,
Va., and Washington City.
FIRST WEEK.-Saturday.-Leave New York by the steamer Saturday
afternoon, and arrive in Savannah Tuesday morning. Spend the rest of the
week in Savannah, at the Pulaski House or Marshall House. (See page 74.)
SECOND WEEK.-Saturday.-Leave Savannah in the steamer for Jackson-
ville, Pilatka, and other places on the St. John's River (pages 85 to 89).
Spend the week thereabouts.
THIRD WEEK.-At St. Augustine, on the coast, below the mouth of the
St. John's (page 87). St. Augustine, or the “Ancient City," as it is some-
times called, from its venerable age, which exceeds that of any other place
in the Union, will tempt the visitor to a long sojourn with the social attrac-
tions which its fame as an invalid resort has secured. The peculiar natural
xi
•
INTRODUCTION.
features of the city and the neighborhood will also win his particular
interest.
FOURTH WEEK.-At St. Augustine.
FIFTH WEEK.-Return to Savannah and take the Georgia Central Rail-
way to Augusta (page 77), thence by steamer to Charleston (page 60).
SIXTH WEEK.-Monday.-By South Carolina Railway from Charleston
to Columbia.
Tuesday. At Columbia (pàge 64), resuming journey in the afternoon.
Wednesday.-En route.
Thursday.-At Richmond, Va. (page 38).
Friday.-Arrive at Washington City (page 21).
Saturday.-To Baltimore same evening.
Sunday.-At Baltimore (page 2).
Monday.-To New York.
If time permit, numerous other pleasant tours can be made from Charles-
ton or Savannah southwest.
xii
APPLETON'S
HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN TRAVEL.
MARYLAND.
THE Country which now forms the State
of Maryland, was granted to Lord Balti-
more by Charles I., and was named in
honor of Henrietta Maria, Queen of that
monarch. Maryland is one of the most
northern of the late slaveholding States,
and the most southern of the group dis-
tinguished as the Middle States. It is
one of the original thirteen.
1
The first permanent settlement in Mary-
land was made at St. Mary's, by Leonard
Calvert, brother of Lord Baltimore,
1634. It was one of the earliest of the
colonies to grant entire freedom of relig-
ious faith-virtually, though not, as is
often written and said, by formal legal
enactments. The emigrants in their own
annals still bear the title of "Pilgrims of
St. Mary's."
The State is naturally divided into three
distinct geographical sections. The first
section comprises that portion lying east
of the Susquehanna River and Chesa-
peake Bay, known as the "Eastern Shore,"
and which contains the counties of Wor-
incester, Somerset, Dorchester, Talbot, Car-
oline, Queen Anne, Kent, and Cecil. The
second section, comprising what is usu-
ally called the "Western Shore," consists
of another peninsula, lying inland, be-
tween the Potomac River and Chesapeake
Bay, and up to the line of the river falls,
and comprises the counties of St. Mary's,
Calvert, Charles, Prince George, Anne
Arundel, Howard, and parts of Montgom-
ery, Baltimore and Harford, an area of
about 3,698 square miles. A ledge of
primitive rocks, which constitute the lead-
ing geographical feature of this section,
forms the natural boundary between the
alluvial region and the mountainous dis-
trict of Maryland, which latter consti-
tutes the third section of the State. Em-
braced in this section are Carroll, Freder-
ick, Washington, and Alleghany Counties,
which cover an area of 2,590 square
miles, and afford some of the most pictur
1
Maryland was not the theatre of any of
the great battles of the Revolution; but
some important scenes of the war of
1812 took place within her borders. The
limits of the State were at that period
twice invaded by the British troops.
They were bravely met and repulsed at
the battle of North Point, in the Chesa-
peake, September 13, 1814. During the
Rebellion of 1861-65, repeated invasions
of the State were made by Confederate
troops, resulting in great destruction of
property, especially on the line of the
Baltimore and Ohio Railway.
The area of the State is 10,210 square
miles, a portion of which is covered by
the waters of the Chesapeake Bay, which
extends within its jurisdiction 120 miles
northward.
,
BALTIMORE.]
esque scenery to be found in the State.
The country upon both the eastern and
western shores of the bay is generally
level and sandy. The long narrow strip
which extends westward is a lofty region,
crossed by several ridges of the Allegha-
nies. These ranges, with their interven-
ing valleys, afford charming landscape
passages to the traveller, on the route of
the Baltimore and Ohio Railway, and
make that highway one of the most at-
tractive of the many leading from the
Eastern cities to the great West. The
hill-region of Maryland abounds in rich
mineral deposits. The coal lands, though
not very extensive, are extremely pro-
ductive. Copper mines are worked in
Frederick and Carroll Counties.
Besides the culture of all the grains,
fruits, vegetables, and other products of
the Northern States, Maryland grows
large quantities of tobacco. The State
ranks, in the production of this staple,
as third in the Union, and, measuring by
population, as second.
BALTIMORE,
MARYLAND.
98 miles from Philadelphia, 186 from
New York, via Philadelphia, Wilmington,
and Havre de Grace.
HOTELS.—Barnum's (City), on Monu-
ment Square, corner Fayette and Calvert
Streets, is a long-established and deserv-
edly popular house. Rooms large and
well ventilated. The main apartment
dining-room has just been refitted and
furnished, at an expense of ten thousand
dollars. Has accommodation for 400
guests. The Eutaw House, corner W.
Baltimore and Eutaw Streets, in the west
end of the city, is pleasantly situated for
families. Its management entitles it to
rank among the best hotels in the coun-
try. The Fountain, in Light Street, the
Maltby, in Pratt Street, and Gilmour's, in
Baltimore Street, are conveniently located,
and among the best of their class in the
city. Restaurants are numerous, and
generally well kept. The oysters of the
The oysters of the
Chesapeake and its tributaries have long
been famous.
[BALTIMORE.
|
000, is imposingly situated upon the north
side of the Patapsco River, 12 miles from
its entrance into the Chesapeake Bay, and
about 200 miles, by these waters, from
the sea. Built, as it is, upon hill-slopes
and terraces, its appearance is at once
imposing and picturesque. Striking, in-
deed, to the stranger, is the unlooked-for
scene, as he gazes from the water upward,
through the climbing streets, capped at
their tops by soaring spire and dome, in
whose midst, and above all, soars the
proud crest of the famous monument to
Washington; and hardly less attractive
is the picture as the eye looks downward
from these elevated points upon the busy
city and its surrounding lands and waters.
The present site of Baltimore was
chosen in 1729, and its name was be-
stowed upon it, in 1745, in honor of Lord
Baltimore. In 1780 it became a port of
entry, with the accompaniments of cus-
tom-house, naval officers, etc. In 1782
the first pavements were laid on Balti-
more Street, the chief avenue of the city
at that period, as at the present time. In
the same year the first regular communi-
cation with Philadelphia was established,
through a line of stage-coaches. The
charter of the city bears date as late as
1797. The population, which at this date
was 26,000, had increased by the year
1854 to nearly 200,000. In 1860 it was
212,418. The next census will undoubt-
edly show a still greater ratio of increase;
and so, each succeeding enumeration-
for the natural advantages of the city
promise it ever-increasing progress.
As laid out, it includes an area of four
miles square, and extends nearly round
the bay. The harbor is capacious and
safe, and consists of an inner basin, into
which vessels of considerable burden can
enter, and an outer harbor at what is
known as Fell's Point, accessible to the
largest merchant ships. The entrance is
defended by Fort McHenry, which figured
conspicuously in the war of 1812. The
harbor is seldom obstructed by ice, a
fact which adds to the commerce of the
port during the winter months. Jones'
Falls, a small stream from the north,
spanned by several wooden bridges, di-
vides the city into two nearly equal parts,
which are known
which are known locally as East and
West Baltimore. From these falls and
Baltimore, one of the four great East-
ern cities, with a population of over 240,-
2

REFERENCE.
1Washington Monut
2Battle Monument
3 Exchange
4 Do Place
5 Gustom House
7Post Office.
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BALTIMORE.
Scale of Feet.
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BALTIMORE.]
Swann Lake, six miles beyond, the city
has a never-failing supply of fine water.
The streets are regular and well paved,
and the houses built mainly of brick,
with marble or granite facings. The city
is divided into twenty wards, and has an
effective, well-regulated fire department.
During the early days of the late rebel-
lion, the city was the scene of considera-
ble rioting. On the 19th April, 1861, on
the passage of Massachusetts troops (6th
regiment infantry) through the city, crowds
collected at the depot and along the line
of route, and stoned the cars and soldiers:
nine citizens were killed during the course
of the riot and many more were wounded.
Twenty-five of the wounded soldiers were
sent to the Washington Hospital. The
rioting was mainly on Pratt Street, be-
tween South and Howard.
MARYLAND.
Baltimore has been called "The Monu-
mental City," and not inappropriately, for
its monuments are its greatest ornaments.
Constituting as they do not only a source
of much pride to its citizens, but the
leading objects of interest to strangers,
they command our first attention.
[BALTIMORE.
|
|
the pedestal or column rests rises 20 feet
from the ground, with an Egyptian door
on each front, on which are appropriate
inscriptions and representations, in basso-
rilievo, of some of the incidents of the
battle. The column rises 18 feet above
the base. This, which is of marble, in
the form of a Roman fasces, is encircled
by bands, on which are inscribed, in
sculptured letters, the names of those
whose patriotic achievements it serves to
commemorate. It is surmounted by a
female figure in marble, emblematic of
the City of Baltimore, the work of an
Italian artist named Capellano. The
whole height of the monument is 52
feet.
The Washington Monument is chief
among the structures of this kind. It is a
very graceful work, standing upon a terrace
100 feet above tide-water, in Mt. Vernon
Place, at the intersection of Charles and
Monument Streets. Its base is 50 feet
square and 20 feet high, supporting a
Doric shaft 176 feet in height, which is
surmounted by a colossal statue of Wash-
ington, 16 feet high. "The Father of his
Country" is represented in the crowning
act of his military life, the resignation of
his commission as commander-in-chief at
Annapolis, Dec. 17, 1783. The total ele-
vation is thus 312 feet above the level
of the river. It is built with brick, cased
with white marble, and cost $200,000.
From the balcony of the monument the
finest view of the city, harbor, river, and
surrounding country is obtained. Access
is by a circular stairway within. Applica-
tion for admission should be made to the
keeper, who will furnish the necessary
light.
|
Battle Monument, erected to the mem-
ory of those who fell defending the city
in September, 1814, is at the corner of
Calvert and Fayette Streets,near Barnum's
Hotel. The square sub-base on which
Armistead Monument, near the City
Spring, is merely a tablet, sunken in a
subterranean niche. It was erected to
the memory of Col. George Armistead,
the commander at Fort McHenry, in 1814,
through whose intrepidity a British fleet
of sixteen sail was repulsed, after having
bombarded the fort for twenty-four hours.
This stone is sometimes spoken of abroad
as among the monumental wonders of
Baltimore-to which glory, however, it
has no kind of claim. Baltimoreans
themselves seldom speak of it.
PUBLIC BUILDINGS.-The Exchange, in
Gay Street, is a large and elegant struc-
ture, with a façade of 240 feet. The
building has colonnades of six Ionic col-
umns on its east and west sides, the shafts
of which are single blocks of fine Italian
marble, of admirable workmanship. The
whole is surmounted by an immense
dome, the apex of which is 115 feet above
the street. The Custom House occupies
the first story of the south wing of the
Exchange, fronting on Lombard Street.
In the northeast part of the building
is the Merchants' Bank, while the Rotun-
da is used for the City Post-Office. The
Reading-Room is a fine apartment, 50 feet
square. Original cost of the whole struc-
ture $600,000. Subsequent improvements
have increased this to nearly one million
dollars.
The Maryland Institute, on Baltimore
Street, near the bridge, is an imposing
edifice 355 feet long by 60 feet wide.
The first story of this immense building
is occupied as a place of public vendue,
and known as the "Centre Market." The
3
BALTIMORE.]
[BALTIMORE.
three-story edifice fronting on Baltimore | Roman Catholic. The Presbyterians have
Strect, contains the library and offices. 15 places of worship, the Baptists 9, and
The main hall, 260 feet by 60, is devoted the Jews 6.
to the Annual Exhibitions of American In-
dustry, Fairs, and other similar purposes.
It will accommodate five thousand per-
sons. The cost of the structure was
about $100,000.
The New City Hall, on Holiday Street,
is a plain, substantial building of three
stories, with a massive-looking portico.
The most imposing church edifice is
the Catholic Cathedral, corner of Cathe-
dral and Mulberry Streets. It is built of
granite, in the form of a cross, and is 190
feet long, 177 broad at the arms of the
cross, and 127 feet high, from the floor to
the top of the cross which surmounts the
dome. The building is well lighted by
windows in the dome, which are concealed
from the view of persons below. At the
west end rise two tall towers, crowned
with Saracenic cupolas, resembling the
minarets of a Mohammedan mosque.
This church is said to have the largest
organ in the United States, having 6,000
pipes and 36 stops. The interior is orna-
The Court House, corner of Monument
Square and Lexington Street, is a commo-
dious and commanding building, 145 feet
by 65, two stories in height, constructed
of marble and brick, appropriated to the
purposes of the City and County Courts.
It is ornamented with white marble pilas-
ters, in the modern Ionic style, and sur-
mounted by a cupola of imposing appear-mented with two excellent paintings:
ance. Its interior appointments are ex- one, "The Descent from the Cross," pre-
cellent.
sented by Louis XVI.; the other, "St.
Louis burying his Officers and Soldiers
slain before Tunis," the gift of Charles
X., of France. This edifice though infe-
rior in architectural proportions and cost-
ly ornamentation to many other of the
Roman Catholic cathedrals and churches
in the Union, in the solidity of its con-
struction and massive appearance is ex-
celled by none.
|
The First Presbyterian Church, situated
at the corner of Madison and Park Streets,
is much admired for its simplicity and
elegance of architectural finish. It is
constructed of free stone from the "Albert
Quarries" of New Brunswick, in the
"Lancet Gothic" style of architecture,
and is one of the most elaborate speci-
mens of that order in the country. It
was commenced in 1855, under the su-
perintendence of Mr. N. G. Starkweather,
and finished the following year. The
building is 131 feet in depth, exclusive of
transept, and 87 feet wide. The tower
is 268 feet-the highest in the city; the
interior is beautifully and appropriately
ornamented.
MARYLAND.
The new U. S. Court House, corner of
North and Fayette Streets, is a massive
granite structure, not yet quite completed.
The City Prisons and State Penitentiary,
fronting on Madison Street, east of the
Falls, are worthy a visit. The former
building, more popularly known as the
"Jail," was built in 1857-'60, from de-
signs by the Messrs. Dixon, at a cost of
$250,000. The building is 404 feet long,
and comprises a centre building and two
wings. The exterior walls of the build-
ing are of rubble masonry, the stone be-
ing from the adjacent quarries on Jones'
Falls. It is a substantial and well-ar-
ranged prison.
|
The Penitentiary consists of three large
buildings, occupying nearly four acres,
laid out in gardens and shrubbery, and
surrounded by a stone wall 20 feet high.
The convicts are principally employed in
the mechanic arts. The County Prison,
near the latter institution, is a neat edifice,
with castellated towers and surmounted
by a cupola.
The Corn and Flour Exchange, on
South Street, corner of Wood Street, is a
substantial structure.
CHURCHES.-There are upward of one
hundred and sixty churches, chapels, and
religious meeting-houses in Baltimore,
with accommodation for upward of 100,-
000 persons. Of these, 44 are Methodist,
20 are Episcopal, and the same number
The Unitarian Church (First Independ-
ent), at the intersection of North Charles
and Franklin Streets, ranks next to the
above in architectural beauty. This edi-
fice is 108 feet long and 78 wide. In
front is a colonnade, consisting of four
Tuscan columns and two pilasters, which
form the arcades. Above, extending
4
BALTIMORE.]
around the pediment, is a cornice, decora-
ted with emblematic figures and inscrip-
tions. From the portico the entrance is
by bronze doors, in imitation of the Vati-
can at Rome-three conducting to the
body of the building, and two to the gal-
leries.
MARYLAND.
[BALTIMORE.
The Church Home, formerly the old
Washington College, is situated on Broad-
way, near Baltimore Street. It belongs
to the Protestant Episcopal Church of
the city, is superintended by a committee
of ladies from the several Episcopal
churches, and is endowed for the relief
of the destitute, afflicted, and orphans.
The elevated situation of this structure,
in a healthy neighborhood, overlooking
the city and bay, especially fits it for such
a Home.
The Catholics, who are a numerous and
wealthy part of the community, have in
addition to the Cathedral various elegant
church edifices, among which may be
mentioned that of St. Alphonsus, at the
corner of Saratoga and Park Streets,
which has a spire of 200 feet; and that
of St. Vincent de Paul, in N. Front Street.
Grace Church (Episcopal), corner of
Monument and Park Streets, is a fine
specimen of the Gothic, in red sandstone.
Close by is another Episcopal church,
also Gothic, built of gray sandstone. St.
Paul's Church, at the corner of Charles
and Saratoga Streets, is a pleasing exam-
ple of the Norman style; $142,000 were
expended in its construction.
CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS, ETC.-The
city is well provided with institutions of
benevolence and charity.
The Maryland Hospital for the Insane
occupies an eminence on East Monument
Street, in the eastern part of the city. It
is a large brick building, with three cupo-
las. Mount Hope Hospital, conducted by
the Sisters of Charity, is in Madison
Street, near the northwestern limits of
the city. Near the University, in Lom-
bard Street, is the Baltimore Infirmary.
It is controlled by the Regents of the
University. In the western part of the
city is the Aged Widows' Home, a new
and elegant edifice; near it a similar build-
ing has been erected for aged men.
The Blind Asylum (Maryland Institu-
tion for the Instruction of the Blind), on
West Saratoga Street, is a flourishing
charity, well worthy a visit. It was or-
ganized in 1853, previous to which date
the children were maintained at the Penn-
sylvania Asylum, located in Philadelphia,
under an annual appropriation from the
Maryland Legislature. The cost of the
building was about $27,000, and the num-
ber of inmates is limited to twenty. The
extent of the accommodation afforded by
this institution is quite inadequate to the
number and needs of these poor sufferers
throughout the city and State.
The Orphan Asylums of St. Anthony
(de Padna) and of St. Vincent de Paul,
the former on Canal, near Madison Street,
and the latter No. 23 N. Front Street, are
flourishing Roman Catholic institutions,
with free schools attached. The House
of Refuge and the city Almshouse are ad-
mirably situated amidst attractive scenery
near the Frederick turnpike, about two
miles from the city. In addition to these,
Baltimore contains numerous institutions
for the relief and support of the poor,
afflicted, and friendless.
LITERARY INSTITUTIONS, ETC.-The Uni-
versity of Maryland is at the intersection
of Green and Lombard Streets.
The
Medical Department of the University
was founded in the year 1807; the Col-
lege of Loyola is at the corner of Madison
and Calvert Streets. The Athenæum,
which is at the corner of Saratoga and
St. Paul Streets, is occupied conjointly by
the Mercantile Library Association, the
Baltimore Library, and the Maryland
Hist. Society. The Library of the Mer-
cantile Association numbers nearly 20,000
volumes; the Baltimore Library 15,000,
and the collection of the Historical Soci-
ety upward of 1,000. It is in the gal-
lery of the Historical Society that the an-
nual exhibitions of pictures are held.
Admission to these libraries from 10 A. M.
to 10 P. M.
The Peabody Institute, corner of Charles
and Monument Streets, founded by George
Peabody, the eminent London banker, is
a massive structure of white marble, re-
cently completed. It is designed for lit-
erary and scientific purposes, and will when
fully endowed contain a library and fine
arts gallery. The Lecture-Room is ad-
mirably constructed, and has sittings for
700 persons.
The St. Mary's College, a Roman Cath-
5
MARYLAND.
BALTIMORE.]
|
olic theological institution, founded 1799,
is at the corner of Franklin and Greene
Streets. McKim's Free School, on East
Baltimore Street, was founded by the lib-
erality of the late Isaac McKim
The Maryland College of Pharmacy,
No. 47 N. Calvert Street. Lectures on
Pharmacy, Chemistry, and Materia Med-
ica during the winter months.
THEATRES, ETC.-Holiday Street Theatre,
in Holiday Street, two squares from Bar-
num's Hotel, is the well-known and popu-
lar resort of theatre-goers in Baltimore.
It is worthy of remembrance that it is
the oldest temple of the Drama in the
United States. The first theatrical enter-
tainments given in Baltimore were con-
ducted in a frame building, erected about
the year 1780. The present structure
was opened May 10, 1814, under the
management of Messrs. Wood & Warren.
It was enlarged and remodelled in 1854
at an expense of $50,000. It is under
the management of Mr. J. T. Ford, and
has accommodations for 1,500 persons.
Front Street (American) Theatre, in
Front Street near Gay.
[BALTIMORE.
bracing an area of between two and three
acres, at the head of West Lombard
Street. It was laid out in 1851; a spring
of most delicious water flows from the
centre of the square.
Franklin Square, corner of Fayette
and Carey Streets, and Jackson Square
on Hampstead Street, east of Broadway.
Patterson Park, on East Baltimore
Street, contains 36 acres, and embraces
the earthworks thrown up for defence of
the city in the war of 1812. The City
Spring, on North Calvert Street, near
Saratoga, enclosed by an iron railing, and
surrounded by umbrageous elm-trees, is
an inviting retreat for the thirsty pedes-
trian during the heats of summer. Near
this spring is the Armistead monument,
before referred to.
The Concordia (German), on S. Eutaw,
is a well-conducted establishment. Buf-
fet, lunch, and billiard rooms attached.
Admission to the latter through a mem-
ber of the society. The Museum is on the
corner of Baltimore and Calvert Streets.
Like "Barnum's" in New York, it serves
to gratify the juvenile dramatic taste.
The New Casino (Melodeon) is on Bal-
timore Street (comic songs and minstrel-
sy). The New Assembly Rooms, the fash-
ionable lecture and concert rooms of the
city, are at the intersection of Hanover
and Lombard Streets.
Federal Hill.-From the Signal House
on this eminence a fine, perhaps the best,
view of the city and surroundings is to be
had.
CEMETERIES.-Green Mountain Ceme-
tery is a charming rural spot, about a
mile and a half from Battle Monument,
The stone gateway, forming the entrance,
at the junction of Belvidere Street and
York Avenue, and the chapel, are much
admired. It was incorporated in 1837.
The cost of grounds and improvements
exceeds a quarter of a million dollars.
City office, No. 1 Courtland Street.
Carroll Hall, at the corner of Balti-
more and Calvert Streets, also contains
spacious lecture and exhibition rooms.
Loudon Park Cemetery, on the Freder-
erick road, about two miles from the
city, is another charming City of the
Dead. The grounds, which embrace 100
acres of land, are of diversified character,
and admirably adapted for the purposes
of sepulture. The gateway is an im-
posing structure 72 feet wide. City office,
56 W. Fayette. Mount Olivet, on the
Frederick pike, is a pretty rural burying-
ground. An enclosure similar in extent
to that of Loudon Park, known as the
Baltimore Cemetery, is reached by taking
North Gay Street to the limits. There
are other burial-grounds in and near
Baltimore, two of which are known as
Mount Carmel and the Western, but they
will hardly repay a visit after you have
seen Green Mount and Loudon Park.
The Halls of the fraternities of Masons
and Odd Fellows, the former in the
Gothic, the latter in the Grecian style of
architecture, are conspicuous buildings.
|
PARKS, SQUARES, ETC.-Druid Hill Park
is a noble pleasance of 550 acres, pleas-
antly situated in the northern suburbs of
the city. It was opened in October, 1861,
and abounds in venerable trees and beau-
tiful shrubbery. It is easily reached from
Baltimore Street by Madison Avenue cars.
Union Square is a pleasant resort, em-
DRIVES, WALKS, ETC.-North Point, at
the mouth of the Patapsco, was the
scene of a memorable battle, September
12, 1814, between the Americans, un-
6
BALTIMORE.]
|
der General Stryker, and the British, un-
der General Ross, in which the former
were defeated, and the latter lost three
commanders. On the following day,
September 13th, Fort McHenry was bom-
barded for twenty-four hours, by sixteen
ships and a land force of 1,200 men.
The assailants were repulsed, and the for-
tress left in the possession of its defend-
ers.
MARYLAND.
|
This engagement at North Point and
Fort McHenry is duly celebrated in Balti-
more on each recurring anniversary, and
the Battle Monument, already described,
was erected in commemoration thereof.
Govanstown, four miles from the city,
on the York road, has a well-kept hotel.
The Cold Spring House is passed on the
way. A line of street cars extends to
Towsontown, three miles beyond.
Four miles on the Philadelphia road is
the village of Kingsville and the Herring
Run, a favorite spot for gudgeon fishing.
Fort McHenry, at the entrance to the
harbor, and distant about three miles
from the centre of the city, ought not to
be forgotten by the visitor to Baltimore.
It is built on the extremity of a peninsu-
la formed on one side by the harbor and
on the other by the Patapsco River. It
successfully resisted the bombardment of
the British fleet in 1814.
Franklin, five miles from Baltimore,
over a well-shaded, well-laid turnpike
and attractive landscape. A road leading
south-west from Franklin brings the visitor
into the old Frederick turnpike. On this
road are Mount de Sales, the Convent of
the Visitation, and St. Timothy's Hall. Re-
turning cityward, a number of beautiful
country seats are passed.
By crossing the Patapsco River at the
foot of Light Street, the stranger will be
afforded an opportunity of visiting the
embryo city of Brooklyn, in the adjoin-
ing county of Anne Arundel.
Among the promenades and rambles of
the city, Baltimore Street, west of Jones
Falls, is perhaps the most attractive.
In it are located the principal retail stores,
and thither repair those of both sexes
who make "shopping" the great business
of week-day life.
[BALTIMORE.
large and highly ornamented structure.
The "Sun" newspaper is issued daily and
weekly from this building. The exten-
sive news and periodical depot of Henry
Taylor & Co. adjoins the Sun office on
the east. The office of the "American,"
the leading Republican journal of the
State, is on the opposite side of Baltimore
Street, west of South Street. Bendann
Brothers, the eminent photographers, oc-
cupy commodious rooms at No. 207. .
Gallery open from 10 to 5. Well-executed
pictures and views of the public build-
ings can be procured at this establish-
ment. The largest and richest assort-
ment of watches, jewelry, and silver ware,
is to be found at the establishment of
Messrs. Canfield, Brother & Co., No. 229
Baltimore Street.
The "Sun" Building, on the corner of
Baltimore and South Streets, has the first
iron front erected in the city. It is a
North Charles Street and Avenue are
also pleasant promenades. In Mount Ver-
non Place, and the vicinity of the Monu-
ment, are some handsome residences.
This constitutes the Belgravia of Balti-
more, the favorite resort of the city's
"best society."
East Baltimore Street and Broadway,
in the other end of the city, afford pleasant
promenades. Crossing Jones Falls at
the foot of Baltimore Street, the Church
of St. Vincent de Paul and the cupola of
the Front Street Theatre are seen north
of the bridge. Proceeding eastward, the
visitor will pass the Second Presbyterian
Church, a fine Gothic structure, corner of
Baltimore and Lloyd Streets, and many
handsome residences, until he reaches
Broadway, the boulevard of the East End.
Turning southward, down Broadway, he
can visit the Methodist, Presbyterian, and
St. Patrick's Churches; and further on the
Fell's Point market house. The passen-
ger depot building, and offices of the Balti-
more & Ohio R. R. in Camden Street, be-
tween Eutaw and Howard Streets, present
an imposing appearance. The main front
on Camden Street is upward of 300 feet
long, and is one of the finest structures of
the kind on the continent. The passen-
ger depots of the Northern Central Rail-
way, in Calvert Street, and of the Phil.,
Wil. & Balt. Railway in President Street,
are large and costly structures.
|
The Shot Tower, on the corner of Front
and Fayette Streets, is a prominent ob-
ject, and one which always elicits the
•
7
BALTIMORE.]
attention of the stranger. It is 246 feet
high, and contains over one million bricks.
CAR AND STAGE ROUTES, FERRIES, ETC.—
Car and stage routes are laid in all the
principal streets and avenues, and almost
every object of interest mentioned in the
foregoing pages is readily reached by
this means.
MARYLAND.
The following are the main lines of the
City Passenger Railway:
South Baltimore, from Baltimore at the
intersection of Gay Street, to Light
Street terminus, every ten minutes.
North Baltimore, from Baltimore cor-
ner North Street, to end of Charles Street,
every ten minutes.
Franklin Square, from Baltimore Street
West End, to Baltimore Cemetery, every
five minutes.
Madison Avenue, from Thames Street,
East Baltimore to city limits, every five
minutes.
Canton line connects at Thames Street
and runs to East City boundary at Canton.
Pennsylvania Avenue, from city limits
to Gay Street, every ten minutes.
Running time, Summer 6 A. M., Winter
6 A. M. till midnight. General office
corner Baltimore and Eutaw Streets.
York Road, from corner Baltimore and
North Streets every hour, from 7 A. M. to
6 P. M. excepting 12 M., connecting at
North Avenue; returning, leave Towson-
town same hours. Time to Towsontown,
7 miles, 1 h. 15 min.
Catonsville and Ellicott's Mills, hourly
from 7 A. M. to 8 P. M., terminus City Pas-
senger Railway; time to Catonsville, 6
miles, one hour.
For such as prefer their own mode of
conveyance, the livery stables and hack-
men of the city afford ample accommo-
dation at reasonable rates.
Stages run daily to Long Greene,
Franklintown, and Pikesville, and tri-
weekly to Bel-air and Kellville (see Wood's
City Directory, for points and time of de-
parture).
The rates of hack and coach fare in
Baltimore are regulated by law, and pen-
alties for over-charging are rigidly en-
forced.
[VICINITY.
EXPRESSES.-Adams' (freight and pack-
age).—164 W. Baltimore.
McClintock's (baggage).-South End
B. & O. R. R. Depot.
Renshaw's.-Northern Central Depot.
Donaldson's.-President Street Depot.
TELEGRAPH OFFICES.-People's line, 23
South Street. U. S. line, 21 South Street.
American, corner North and Baltimore,
with branches at the principal hotels.
Federal Hill Ferry, from City Block,
foot of West Falls Avenue.
Locust Point Ferry, from foot of Broad-
way.
VICINITY.
The river and shore scenery in the
neighborhood of Baltimore offers great
attractions to tourists and sportsmen.
The Patapsco River flows, 70 miles,
from Carroll County, in the northern part
of the State, to the Chesapeake Bay, which
it enters 15 miles below the city of Balti-
more. It is navigable as far as Baltimore
for large merchant ships. It is a rapid
stream, and is much utilized as a water-
power. The Baltimore and Ohio Rail-
way is built along the whole extent of the
western branch of the river.
The Susquehanna River enters the
northeast corner of the State, not far
from its débouche into the Chesapeake Bay
at Havre de Grace. It is formed by the
union of two branches, known as the
east and west branches, which unite at
Northumberland, 60 miles above Harris-
burg, Pa. The main stream is 150 miles
in length, and is adorned by numerous
beautiful islands and rocky rapids.
The Potomac River forms the boundary
line between Maryland and Virginia.
Along its passage of 350 miles, from the
mountains to the Chesapeake Bay, there is
much beautiful and varied scenery. The
landscape at its confluence with the Shen-
andoah, near Harper's Ferry, Virginia,
has long been famous among the chief
picturesque wonders of America. The
Falls of the Potomac, about 14 miles
above Georgetown, D. C., will repay a
visit. The principal cascade is between
30 and 40 feet perpendicular pitch, and
the rocky cliffs on the Virginia side of
the river have a very impressive aspect.
This river is navigable for ships of the
line 200 miles to the Washington Navy
Yard. At Alexandria, Va., 9 miles below
the Capital, the river is more than a mile
wide, and nearly 8 miles wide at its conflu-
8
BALTIMORE.]
[VICINITY.
ence with the Chesapeake. Independent | The retinues of hereditary dependants,
of its many and varied natural attractions, however, are gone, with the abolition of
this noble river is invested with an interest the slave system; they and many of the
which will forever render it attractive, customs and usages of society in this lo-
not only to every student of history, but cality have disappeared. The Eastern
also to every lover of his country. The Shore, both in its material and social as-
Chesapeake and Ohio Canal is construct-pect,
ed along the north branch of this river,
between Georgetown, D. C., and Cumber-
land, Maryland.
MARYLAND.
|
The Chesapeake Bay is the great high-
way from Baltimore to the Atlantic, which
it enters between Capes Charles and Hen-
ry, in Virginia. It is the largest bay in
the United States, its length being about
200 miles, with a breadth varying from four
to forty miles. Its depth permits the
passage of the largest ships nearly to the
mouth of the Susquehanna, at its upper
extremity. Its shores are profusely in-
dented with arms or estuaries of the odd-
est shapes, and with the mouths of tribu-
tary rivers and creeks, which abound in
fish. The region drained by the Chesa-
peake and its tributaries embraces an area
of 70,000 square miles. Among the prin-
cipal of these tributaries are the Susque-
hanna, Patapsco, and Potomac, already
mentioned; the James, and Rappahan-
nock, the Elk, Choptank, Chester, Nanti-
coke, and Pocomoke, smaller rivers, are all
more or less navigable.
The waters of the Chesapeake cut off
a large portion of Maryland, and further
down the coast a little slice of Virginia
on the east. This severed portion of the
mainland is known as the Eastern Shore
of Maryland and of Virginia. These dis-
tricts, in the aside position which they thus
occupy out of the great current of the
national life, invite the traveller by their
unique specialties of social habit and char-
acter. Railway enterprises, city lot ma-
nias, and other "general orders" of the
day, by which the thought and manner
of the country are dragooned into univer-
sal uniform, and hurried along at forced
march, have not yet entered these by-
places. Indeed, there may still be found
in them, intact, much of the feeling, opin-
ion, and life of the "Old Dominion" of a
century ago; genuine "first families," with
awful pedigrees, hung up in the weather-
stained halls of antediluvian homes; ma-
norial homesteads, with big doors ever
open, and surrounded with lordly acres.
is much changed since "the good old
times" the early settlers were wont to
boast of before the war, but not altogeth-
er for the worse. Here is yet preserved
the old, exploded idea, that the present
hour, as well as the future, is worth the
caring for, and life is considered a thing
to be enjoyed, not in anticipation alone,
but as it passes, day by day.
Let the business man, care-worn and
wearied, slip down from New York, Phila-
delphia, or Baltimore by one of the way
steamers on the Chesapeake; let him land
lazily at ancient Accomac, or thereabouts,
and forget for a little while the wrinkling
perplexities of cabinets and commerce,
in the quiet pleasures of simple domes-
tic life within doors, and the genial recre-
ations to which he will be bidden without.
These waters, with their tributary
streams, are among the most famous re-
sorts in the United States for every spe-
cies of aquatic game. Birds of all feath-
ers are drawn hither in marvellous num-
bers by the abundance of food found on
the great flats or shoals along the shores
and upon the river inlets.
(6
Above, around, in numerous flocks are seen
Long lines of ducks o'er this their fav'rite
scene."
"There is," says Dr. Lewis, in his Amer-
ican Sportsman, "no place in our wide
extent of country, where wild-fowl shoot-
ing is followed with so much ardor as on
the Chesapeake Bay and its tributaries,
not only by those who make a comfort-
able living from the business, but also by
gentlemen who resort to these waters
from all parts of the adjoining States to
participate in the enjoyments of this far-
famed ducking ground. All species of
wild-fowl come here in numbers beyond
credence, and it is really necessary for a
stranger to visit the region, if he wishes
to form a just idea of the wonderful mul-
titudes and numberless varieties of ducks
that darken these waters, and hover in
interminable flocks over these famed feed-
ing-grounds. It is not, however, the va
9
CHESAPEAKE BAY.]
riety or extraordinary numbers of ducks
on the Chesapeake that particularly at-
tract the steps of so many shooters to
these parts, as there are other rivers and
streams equally accessible where wild-
fowl also abound. But the great magnet
that makes these shores the centre of at-
traction, is the presence of the far-famed
CANVASS-BACK, that here alone acquires its
peculiar delicacy of flavor, while feeding
upon the shores and flats of these waters."
MARYLAND.
"The canvass-backs," says Dr. Sharp-
less, of Philadelphia, in a paper contribu-
ted to Audubon's Birds of America, "pass
up and down the bay, from river to river,
in their morning and evening flights, giv-
ing, at certain localities, great opportuni-
ties for destruction. They pursue, even
in their short passages, very much the
order of their migratory movements, fly-
ing in a line of baseless triangle: and
when the wind blows on the points which
may lie in their course, the sportsman has
great chance of success. These points
or courses of the ducks are materially af-
fected by the winds; for they avoid, if
possible, an approach to the shore; but
when a strong breeze sets them on to
these projections of the land, they are
compelled to pass within shot, and often
over the land itself.
"In the Susquehanna and Elk Rivers
there are few of these points for shoot-
ing, and there success depends on ap-
proaching them while on their feeding-
grounds. After leaving the eastern point
at the mouth of the Susquehanna and
Turkey Point, the western side of the Elk
River, which are both moderately good
for flying shooting, the first place of much
celebrity is the Narrows, between Spesu-
tic Island and the western shore. These
Narrows are about three miles in length,
and from three to five hundred yards in
breadth.
"By the middle of November, the can-
vass-backs, in particular, begin to feed in
this passage, and the entrance and outlet,
as well as many intermediate spots, be-
come very successful stations. A few miles
down the western shore is Taylor's Island,
which is situated at the mouth of the
Rumney and Abbey Island at the mouth
of Bush River, which are both celebrated
for ducks, as well as for swans and geese.
These are the most northerly points where
»
[CHESAPEAKE BAY.
|
large fowl are met with, and projecting
out between deep coves, where immense
numbers of these birds feed, they possess
great advantages. The south point of
Bush River, Legoe's Point, and Robbins'
and Pickett's Points, near Gunpowder
River, are famous localities. Immediate-
ly at the mouth of this river is situated
Carroll's Island, which has long been
known as a great shooting-ground. Max-
well's Point, as well as some others up
other rivers, and even further down the
bay, are good places, but less celebrated
than those mentioned. Most of these
places are let out as shooting-grounds for
companies and individuals, and are es-
teemed so valuable that intruders are se-
verely treated."
Norfolk, Virginia, on the Elizabeth
River, at the lower extremity of the bay,
is the depot for the receipt and sale of
the game taken in the Chesapeake, and
there the best purchases can be made.
The sport, as all who have joined in it full
well know, is not without its difficulties
and its dangers. Says the learned Doctor
from whom we have already quoted:
"Notwithstanding the apparent facil-
ities that are offered of success, the
amusement of duck-shooting is probably
one of the most exposing to cold and wet;
and those who undertake its enjoyment
without a courage 'screwed to the stick-
ing-point,' will soon discover that 'to one
good a thousand ills oppose.' It is, in-
deed, no parlor sport; for, after creeping
through mud and mire, often for hundreds
of yards, to be at last disappointed, and
stand exposed on points to the 'pelting
rain or more than freezing cold,' for
hours, without even the promise of a
shot-would try the patience of even
Franklin's 'glorious nibbler.' It is, how-
ever, replete with excitement and charm.
To one who can enter on the pleasure
with a system formed for polar cold, and
a spirit to endure the weary toil of many
a stormy day, it will yield a harvest of
health and delight that the roamer of the
woods can rarely enjoy."
The voyage down the Chesapeake from
Baltimore to Norfolk, provided it be made
in pleasant weather, is a delightful trip.
The steamers of the Old (Bay) and New
Lines make trips daily, running through
in twelve hours.
10
CHESAPEAKE BAY.]
[BALT. & OHIO Railway.
|
The points of chief interest seen in the | for the auspicious event, and on the 30th
passage of the bay, are the embouchure of August, 1830, the first section was open-
of the Patapsco River and the battle-ed by steam-power, 14 miles, from Balti-
ground of North Point, near Baltimore, more to Ellicott's Mills. The trial of the
and referred to in our mention of that first engine was made on the 25th of
city: the Bodkin, three miles distant; the August of that year. On the 1st of June,
harbor of Annapolis, 15 miles still below; 1853, the entire route, of nearly 400
and, in the distance, the dome of the ven- miles, was completed, and on the 10th of
erable Capitol in which "Washington, the January a formal opening of the road
great and good, set the seal to his sincer- was made by a through excursion, with
ity, and finished the edifice of his glory, great public fêtes and rejoicings.
by voluntarily surrendering his conquer-
ing sword to the civil authority of his
country." At the lower end of the bay
are the famous fortifications of Fort Mon-
roe and the Rip Raps, protecting the en-
trance to Hampton Roads and James
River. It is a charming route, also, to
Richmond, turning at or near Norfolk,
into the mouth of the James River, and
following the many devious miles of those
winding and picturesque waters. (See
chapter on Virginia, for James River.)
It suffered severely during the late war
from the destruction of its track, bridges,
and rolling-stock. On the 16th of May,
1861, several bridges were destroyed and
portions of the track torn up. June 14th,
the costly bridge at Harper's Ferry was
wholly destroyed; and on the 23d of the
same month no less than 46 locomotive
engines and upwards of 300 cars, val-
ued at nearly half a million dollars, were
burned by order of the Confederate Gen-
eral, Joseph E. Johnston. With the en-
terprise which has always characterized
the management of this road, these dam-
ages have all been made good, and the
road is now in the best order possible.
For variety of picturesque landscape
scenery, combined with the scarcely less
important considerations and attractions
of memorable historic association and
convenience of travel, the Baltimore and
Ohio Railroad affords a route which no
one making the Southern tour should
fail to take.
To see it, and the numerous points and
objects of interest tributary to it, the
traveller should be prepared to spend at
least three days between Baltimore and
Wheeling; a fortnight might be profitably
and pleasantly passed in making the en-
tire distance and returning.
MARYLAND.
In extent, commercial importance, and
pictorial attraction, this great route is
one of the most important and interesting
in America. It unites the city of Balti-
more with the waters and valley of the
Ohio, at Wheeling, 379 miles away, mak-
ing one of the pleasantest and speediest
of the great highways from the Atlantic
to the Mississippi States. Its whole
course is through a region of the highest
picturesque variety and beauty, and it
is itself a work of the highest artistic
achievement in the continual and extra-
ordinary display of skill which the singu-
lar difficulties of the way have called
forth. It claims, too, especial considera-
tion, and reflects the greatest honor upon
the State of Maryland and its beautiful
metropolis of Baltimore-as the first rail-
way in America which was built by an
incorporated company, and without the
assistance of the public purse.
The corner-stone of the road was laid
at a very early period in the history of rail-
ways. July 4, 1828, was the day chosen
Leaving the city, we cross the
Carrollton Viaduct, a fine bridge of
dressed granite, with an arch of 80 feet
span, over Gwynn's Falls, after which the
road soon reaches the long and deep ex-
cavation under the Washington Turnpike,
which is carried over the railroad by the
Jackson Bridge. Less than a mile fnrther
the "deep cut" is encountered, famous
for its difficulties in the early history of
the road. It is 76 feet in extreme depth,
and nearly half a mile in length. Beyond
this the road crosses the deep ravine of
Robert's Run, and, skirting the ore banks
of the old Baltimore Iron Company, now
covered by a dense forest of cedar-trees,
comes to the long and deep embankment
over the valley of Gadsby's Run, and
the heavy cut through Vinegar Hill im-
mediately following it.
The Relay House, eight miles from the
inner station, is next reached, where, as
11
?
RELAY HOUSE.]
the name imports, there was a change of
horses during the period in which those
animals furnished the motive power of
the road. Here diverges the branch of
the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad to Wash-
ington City, which we shall have occasion
to speak of in our journey southward
from Baltimore.
MARYLAND.
At this point the open country of sand
and clay ends, and the region of rock
begins at the entrance to the gorge of
the Patapsco River. In entering this
defile, you have a fine view of the Thomas
Viaduct (named after the first Presi-
dent of the Company), a noble granite
structure of eight elliptic arches, each of
about 60 chord, spanning the stream at a
height of 66 feet above the bed, and of
a total length of some 700 feet. The
pretty village of Elkridge Landing is in
sight, and upon the surrounding heights
are seen a number of pleasant country
seats.
The road now pursues its devious
course up the river, passing the Avalon
Iron Works, a mile beyond the Relay
House, and coming, in a couple of miles
further, to the Patterson Viaduct, a fine
granite bridge of four arches, two of 55
and two of 20 feet span. This bridge
crosses the river at the Ilchester Mills, sit-
uated at a very rugged part of the ravine.
The Thistle Cotton Factory appears im-
mediately beyond, and soon after Gray's
Cotton Factory.
Proceeding westward, we reach Elli-
cott's Mills, 14 miles from Baltimore, an
exceedingly picturesque little town, in
a bold, rocky passage of the Patapsco. It
contains a newspaper-office, bank, several
churches, and a population of 1,500. The
Frederick Turnpike road passes through
the town here, and is crossed by the
railroad upon the Oliver Viaduct, a hand-
some stone bridge of three arches, each
of 20 feet span. Just beyond this bridge
is the Tarpeian Rock, a bold, insulated
mass of granite, between which and the
body of the cliff the railroad edges its
way.
[FREDERICK.
windings of the stream to the Forks,
25 miles from Baltimore. Passing the
Marriottsville limestone quarries near the
station of that name, the road crosses
the Patapsco by an iron bridge 50 feet
span, and dashes through a sharp spur
of the hill by a tunnel 400 feet long
in mica slate rock. After passing one
or two rocky hills at Hood's Mill, it
leaves the granite region and enters upon
the gentle slopes of the slate hills, among
which the river meanders until we reach
the foot of Parr's Ridge, which divides
the waters of the Patapsco from those of
the Potomac.
The road soon after comes in sight of
the Elysville Factory buildings, where it
crosses the river upon a new viaduct of
three iron spans, each of 110 feet, and
almost immediately upon another of sim-
ilar length. Thence it follows the various
From the summit of the ridge at the
Mount Airy Station, 44 miles from Balti-
more, is a noble view westward across
the Fredericktown Valley, and as far as the
Catoctin Mountain, some 15 miles dis-
tant. The road thence descends the val-
ley of Bush Creek, a stream of moderate
curves and gentle slopes, with a few ex-
ceptions, where it breaks through some
ranges of trap rocks, which interpose
themselves among the softer shales.
The Monrovia and Ijamsville Stations are
passed at Bush Creek. The slates ter-
minate at the Monocacy River, and the
limestone of the Fredericktown Valley
commences. That river is crossed by a
wooden bridge of three spans, 110 feet
each, and elevated about 40 feet above
its bed.
The Valley of the Monocacy is equally
remarkable for its beauties of position,
its rich agricultural resources, and its
mineral wealth.
At Monocacy, the traveller will pass
the battle-ground where, on the 9th of
July, 1864, Gen. Lew. Wallace and the
Federal forces were defeated by a superi-
or Confederate force, and compelled to
retreat to Baltimore. Subsequent devel-
opments have rendered it probable that
the gallant stand made at the Monocacy
Bridge on that day by Gen. Wallace, and
the heavy loss that he inflicted on the
enemy, saved Washington from capture
on the 12th.
From Monocacy a branch road extends
three miles north to Frederick, the coun-
ty seat of Frederick County and the cen-
tre of one of the most fertile, populous,
and wealthy sections of the State. It is
the third city of Maryland in population,
12
POINT OF ROCKS.]
wealth, and trade. Besides a handsome |
court-house, it contains numerouse hurch
edifices, two newspaper offices, and sever-
al large factories. Some popular Catholic
educational establishments, among them
St. John's College, are located here.
MARYLAND.
From the Monocacy to the Point of
Rocks, the road, having escaped from the
narrow, winding valleys to which it has
thus far been confined, bounds away over
the beautiful champaign country lying be-
tween that river and the Catoctin Moun-
tains.
This range of mountains, a continua-
tion of the Blue Ridge, runs west of Fred-
erick, due south, to the Point of Rocks.
Between this range and the South Moun-
tain, which slopes to the Potomac at
Knoxville, nestles Maryland's loveliest val-
ley, the valley of Catoctin, of which Mid-
dletown, 10 miles from Frederick, is the
centre. A conspicuous elevation at the
termination of the Catoctin range is
known as the Sugarloaf Mountain.
The Point of Rocks is formed by the
bold profile of the Catoctin Mountain,
against the base of which the Potomac
River runs on the Maryland side, the
mountain towering up on the opposite
(Virginia) shore forming the other bar-
rier of the pass.
The railroad turns the
promontory by an abrupt curve, and is
partly cut out of the rocky precipice on
the right, and partly supported on the in-
ner side of the canal on the left by a
stone wall of considerable length. Two
miles further another cliff occurs, accom-
panied by more excavation and walling.
Beyond, the ground becomes compara-
tively smooth, and the railroad, leaving
the immediate margin of the river to the
canal, runs along the base of the gently
sloping hills, passing the villages of Ber-
lin and Knoxville, and reaching the We-
verton Factories, in the pass to the South
Mountain.
[HARPER'S FERRY.
federate right was made, is two miles from
the base of the mountain. Crampton's
Gap, through which passes the road from
Jefferson to Roberville, is six miles south.
From South Mountain to Harper's Fer-
ry, the road lies along the foot of a pre-
cipice for the greater part of the distance
of three miles, the last of which is immedi-
ately under the rocky cliffs of Elk Moun-
tain, forming the north side of this noted
pass. The Shenandoah River enters the
Potomac immediately below the bridge
over the latter, and their united currents
rush rapidly over the broad ledges of
rock which stretch across their bed. The
length of the bridge is about 900 feet,
and at its western end it divides into two,
the left-hand branch connecting with the
Winchester and Potomac Railroad, which
passes directly up the Shenandoah, and
the right-hand carrying the main road, by
a strong curve in that direction, up the
Potomac. The bridge consists of six
arches of 130 and one arch of about 75
feet span over the river, and an arch of
about 100 feet span over the canal; all
of which are of timber and iron, and cov-
ered in, except the western arch connect-
ed with the Winchester and Potomac
Railroad, which is entirely of iron, ex-
cepting the floor. This viaduct is not so
remarkable for its length as for its pecu-
liar structure, the two ends of it being
curved in opposite directions, and bifur-
cated at the western extremity.
The Battle of South Mountain really
commenced at a bridge over Catoctin
Creek, half a mile west of Middletown,
where Confederate artillery had been
posted to dispute the passage. After
most desperate fighting, the crest of the
hill was gained by the Federal troops and
the enemy driven into the valley on the
west side of the mountain. Turner's Gap,
where the last desperate stand of the Con-
|
Harper's Ferry and all its fine points
of scenery are too well known to need
elaborate description here. The precipi-
tous mountains which rise from the water's
edge leave little level ground on the river
margin, and all of that is occupied by the
United States Armory buildings. Hence
the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad has been
obliged to build itself a road in the river
bed for upwards of half a mile, along the
outer boundary of the Government works,
upon a trestle-work, resting on the side
next the river upon an insulated wall of
masonry, and upon the other side support-
ed by strong iron columns placed upon the
retaining wall of the Armory grounds.
The town is delightfully situated at the
confluence of the Potomac and Shenan-
doah Rivers, in Jefferson County, Va., 160
miles north of Richmond and 53 miles
northwest of Washington. It is com-
13
HARPER'S FERRY.]
[ANTIETAM
pactly though irregularly built around | ted by the dam, the railroad leaves the
the base of a hill.
Potomac and passes up the ravine of Elk
Branch, which presents itself at this point
in a favorable direction. This ravine, at
first narrow and serpentine, becomes
wider and more direct, until it almost
loses itself in the rolling table land which
characterizes the " Valley of Virginia.”
The head of Elk Branch is reached in
about nine miles, and thence the line de-
scends gradually over an undulating
champaign country, to the crossing of
the "Opequa" Creek, which it passes by
a stone and timber viaduct of 150 feet
span and 40 feet above the water surface.
Beyond the crossing the road enters the
open valley of Tuscarora Creek, which it
crosses twice and pursues to the town of
Martinsburg, 18 miles from Harper's
Ferry.
MARYLAND.
|
Besides the Armory, a National Arse-
nal was located here. Both buildings, with
nearly 15,000 stand of arms, were destroy-
ed by fire, April 18th, 1861, on the ap-
proach of the Virginia State troops.
Southern troops soon occupied the town
and adjacent heights, and by May 20th,
the number of Confederate soldiers on
the spot was estimated at 8,000. On the
14th the point was evacuated. Previous
to the war it was a prosperous trading-
place, and was known in the early days of
Virginia as Shenandoah Falls. It was
once "the garden spot of Virginia ;" but
war, though it has rendered it more inter-
esting to the traveller, has, for the present
at least, robbed it of its claim to the
former distinction. It was the scene of
the exploits which in October, 1859, ren-
dered the name of John Brown, of Ossa-
wattomie-Kansas notoriety, still more no-
torious. Charlestown, the county seat,
where Brown and his followers were tried
and executed, is seven miles distant, on
the road to Winchester. Visitors to Har-
per's Ferry should not fail to see the Mary-
land Heights, Bolivar Heights, Loudon
Heights, and the fortifications which have
been erected on them. This was the the-
atre of one of Stonewall Jackson's most
famous exploits, when Harper's Ferry was
captured by the Confederates in Septem-
ber, 1862.
Kearneysville, 11 miles west of Har-
per's Ferry, was the scene of many caval-
ry fights between Generals Pleasanton,
Averill, Custer, and Merritt, on the one
side, and Fitz Lee and Stuart on the
other. This part of the road, and indeed
the whole region around Martinsburg,
including that town itself, was occupied
alternately at least fifteen times during the
war, first by the Federal and then by the
rebel soldiers, and battles were almost
continually taking place in its vicinity.
After passing the uppermost of the Ar-
mory buildings, the road runs along the
outer bank of the Chesapeake and Ohio
Canal, which brings the water of the river
to the works, and soon crosses this canal
by a stone and timber bridge 150 feet
span. Thence the road passes up the riv-
er on the inner side of the canal, and op-
posite the dam at its head, about one and
three-quarters of a mile from the mouth of
the Shenandoah, and pierces a-projecting
rock by a tunnel or gallery of 80 feet in
length.
Antietam, seven miles from Kearneys-
ville, is reached over the turnpike road to
Sharpsburg. Tourists will find good con-
veyance to the battle-field, where was
closed one of the most memorable cam-
paigns of the war. The battle was fought
on the 17th September, 1862, between
General McClellan and General Lee, and re-
sulted in the withdrawal of the forces of
the latter across the Potomac on the fol-
lowing day, and the virtual abandonment
of further contest on the soil of Maryland.
Eight miles westward the train reaches
Martinsburg, the end of the first division
of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, and
(which is of vastly greater importance to
the hungry traveller) the Dinner Station.
|
Martinsburg, the capital of Berkeley
County, West Virginia, and a place of con-
siderable trade, is pleasantly situated 100
miles west of Baltimore, on Tuscarora
Creek, a rapid stream, which affords fine
manufacturing privileges. Here the trav-
eller will find the scene of the most de-
The view down the river through this
perforation is singulary picturesque, pre-
senting the pass through the mountain at
the confluence of the rivers in one of its
most remarkable aspects. A short dis-
tance above the tunnel, where the river
sweeps gradually round to the eastward
in the broad smooth sheet of water crea-
14
SHARPSBURG.]
structive labors of the Confederate troops.
It was here, and near here, on the 23d
June, 1861, that 87 locomotives and 400
freight cars, belonging to the railroad com-
pany, were collected by the rebel troops
under Jackson's personal direction, and
burned or destroyed; little even of the
wreck of this terrible destruction is now
to be seen.
MARYLAND.
At Martinsburg the Tuscarora is bridge-
ed twice, and the crossing east of the town
being made upon a viaduct of 10 spans of
44 feet each of timber and iron, support-
ed by two abutments and 18 stone columns
in the Doric style. The architectural effect
of this structure is good.
[DOE GULLY.
|
is magnificent as you approach the bridge,
and extends as far as the distant moun-
tain range of Sideling Hill, 25 miles to
the west. The immediate margin of the
river is reached at a point opposite the
ruins of Fort Frederick, on the Maryland
side, an ancient stronghold, erected more
than a hundred years ago.
From this point, thirty miles from
Harper's Ferry, the route follows the
Virginia shore of the river upon bottom
lands, interrupted only by the rocky
bluffs opposite Licking Creek, for ten
miles to Hancock. The only considerable
stream crossed in this distance is Sleepy
Creek, which is compassed by a viaduct
of two spans of 110 feet each.
Sharpsburg, situate not far distant from
the west bank of Antietam Creek, 14
miles south of Hagerstown, owes its in-
terest mainly to the great battle fought
in its vicinity. The town still bears many
marks of the fight, the houses being per-
forated by shells, and defaced by Minié
balls. The Lutheran and Episcopal
Churches suffered so severely that they
have had to be pulled down. The princi-
pal object of interest, next to the battle-
field itself, a fine view of which it com-
mands, is the National Cemetery. The
plan originated with Governor Bradford,
was approved by the General Assembly
of 1865, and the grounds located on the
site they now occupy upon the summit
of the most prominent hill of the range
selected by Lee for his line of battle.
The view is at once commanding and
beautiful.
Westward from Martinsburg the route
for seven miles is continued over the open
country, alternately ascending and de-
scending, until it strikes the foot of the
North Mountain, crossing this by a long
excavation, 63 feet deep, in slate rock,
through a depression therein, passing out
of the valley, having traversed its entire
breadth upon a line 26 miles in length.
On leaving these rich and well-tilled
lands, we enter a poor and thinly-settled
district, covered chiefly with a forest in
which stunted pine prevails. The route
encounters a heavy excavation and em-
bankment for four or five miles from the
North Mountain, and crosses Back Creek
upon a stone viaduct of a single arch of
80 feet span and 54 feet above the
stream. The view of the Potomac Valley |
Six miles west of Hancock, the trav-
eller reaches Sir John's Run, the scene
of much warlike preparation and activity
during the early days of the rebellion,
and the point of departure for the Berke-
ley Springs. These famous springs are
situated at the eastern base of the Warm
Spring Ridge, two miles distant from the
railway-station, and are the resort of
much travel. The hotel is elegantly fitted
up, lighted by gas, and is well kept dur-
ing the season. Coaches await the ar-
rival of the trains.
Leaving Sir John's Run, the track
sweeps around the termination of the
Cacapon Mountain, opposite the remark-
able and insulated eminence called the
"Round Top." Thence on to the cross-
ing of the Great Cacapon River, nine and
a half miles above Hancock, which is
crossed by a bridge about 300 feet
in length. Within the next mile it passes
dam No. 6 of the Chesapeake and Ohio
Canal, and soon after it enters the gap
of Sideling Hill.
The next point of interest reached
is the Tunnel at Doe Gully. The
approaches to this formidable work
are very imposing, as for several miles
above and below the tunnel they cause
the road to occupy a high level on the
slopes of the river hills, and thus afford
an extensive view of the grand mountain
scenery around.
The Paw Paw Ridge Tunnel is next
reached, 30 miles from Hancock, and 25
miles below Cumberland. This tunnel is
through a soft slate rock, and is curved
horizontally with a radius of 750 feet.
15
•
PATTERSON'S CREEK.]
[CUMBERLAND.
|
The viaduct over Little Cacapon Creek
is 143 feet long. About five and a half
miles further on, the south branch of the
Potomac is crossed on a bridge 400 feet
long.
River. It contains a court-house, county
prison, banks, and other public buildings,
several handsome church edifices, three
newspaper establishments, and a good
hotel-the Revere House.
MARYLAND.
Some two miles above is a fine straight
line over the widely-expanded flats oppo
site the ancient settlement of Old Town,
in Maryland. These are the finest bottom
lands on the Potomac, and from the
upper end of them is obtained the first
view of the Knobly Mountain, that re-
markable range which lies in a line with
the town of Cumberlend, and is so singu-
larly diversified by a profile which makes
it appear like a succession of artificial
mounds. Dan's Mountain towers over it,
forming a fine background to the view.
Soon after, the route passes the high
cliffs known by the name of Kelly's Rocks,
where there has been a very heavy excava-
tion.
Patterson's Creek, 70 miles west of
Martinsburg, and eight miles east of
Cumberland, is next reached. Imme-
diately below this stream is a lofty mural
precipice of limestone and sandstone
rock, singularly perforated in some of the
ledges by openings which look like
Gothic loopholes. The valley of this
creek is very straight and bordered by
beautiful flats. The viaduct over the
stream is 150 feet long. Less than two
miles above, and six miles from Cumber-
land, the north branch of the Potomac is
crossed by a viaduct 700 feet long, and
rising in a succession of steps-embracing
also a crossing of the Chesapeake and
Ohio Canal. This extensive bridge car-
ries us out of Virginia, and lands us
once more in Maryland, which we left at
Harper's Ferry.
The route thence to Cumberland is
across two bends of the river, between
which the stream of Evett's Creek is
crossed by a viaduct of 100 feet span.
Cumberland, on the Potomac
River, the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal,
and the line of the Baltimore and Ohio
Railway, is 179 miles west of Baltimore.
It is in the mountain region of the nar-
row strip which forms the western part
of the State, and in point of population
and trade is its second city.
It is the eastern terminus of the Great
National Road leading to the Mississippi
The entrance to the town is beautiful,
and displays the noble amphitheatre in
which it lies to great advantage, the gap
of Will's Mountain, westward of the town,
being a justly prominent feature of the
view.
The brick and stone viaduct over Will's
Creek is entitled to particular notice. It
consists of 14 elliptical arches of 50 feet
span and 13 feet rise, and is a well-built
and handsome structure.
Visitors for Bedford Springs, Virginia,
leave the main line at Cumberland.
From Cumberland to l'iedmont, 28
miles, the scenery is remarkably pictur-
esque, perhaps more so than upon any
other section of the road of similar length.
For the first 22 miles, to the mouth of
New Creek, the Knobly Mountain bounds
the valley of the North Branch of the
Potomac on the left, and Will's and
Dan's Mountains on the right; thence to
Piedmont, the river lies in the gap which
it has cut through the latter mountain.
Chimney-Hole Rock, at the termination
of Fort Hill, is a singular crag, through
the base of which the Railroad Company
have driven a tunnel under the road to
answer the purpose of a bridge for several
streams entering the river at that point.
The cliffs which occur at intervals
during the first 10 miles after leaving
Cumberland; the wide bottom lands
extending for the next four miles; the
high rocky bluffs along Fort Hill, and the
grand mural precipice opposite to them,
on the Virginia shore, immediately below
the "Black Oak Bottom," a celebrated
farm embracing 500 acres in a single
plain, between mountains of great height,
are worthy the attention of the tourist.
The crossing of the Potomac, from the
Maryland to the Virginia shore, is 21 miles
from Cumberland, where the railroad,
after passing through a long and deep
excavation, spans the river by a bridge
of timber and iron, on stone abutments
and a pier. The view at this point, both
up and down the river, is very fine. The
Bull's Head Rock, a mile beyond this
bridge, is a prominent object.
16
CHIMNEY-HOLE ROCK.]
At Piedmont, 206 miles west of Balti-
more, the traveller reaches, as the name
implies, the foot of the Alleghany Moun-
tains. This is the end of the second divi-
sion of the road, and here are located a
hotel and extensive machine-shops. The
village stands at the mouth of George
Creek, and opposite is the ancient village
of Westenport.
We now commence the ascent of the
Alleghanies. Passing up the valley of
Savage River, through the Everett Tunnel,
past the mouth of Crabtree Creek, where,
in military parlance, the road turns the
flank of the Great Backbone Mountain,
we reach Altamont, in Alleghany County.
Herc, 160 miles east of Parkersburg, the
traveller finds himself at the surprising
altitude of 2,700 feet above the city of
Baltimore, and upon the extreme summit
of the Alleghanies. It is here that the
mountain streams divide, flowing in one
direction towards the Ohio River, the Mis-
sissippi, and the Gulf of Mexico, and in
the other towards the Potomac River, the
Chesapeake Bay, and the Atlantic Ocean.
From Altamont westward, for a dis-
tance of nearly twenty miles, are beautiful
natural meadows lying along the upper
waters of the Youghiogheny (Yoh-ho-ga-
nee) River, and its numerous tributaries,
divided by ridges generally of moderate
elevation and gentle slope, with fine ranges
of mountains in the background. These
meadows are known as the "Glades."
MARYLAND.
At Oakland, nine miles beyond Alta-
mont, is the Glades Hotel, which some
poet, doubtless to the manor born, has
honored in the following Shakespearian
paraphrase:
"This hotel hath a pleasant seat, the air
Nimbly and sweetly recommends itself
Unto our gentle senses." MACBETHL
The Great and Little Youghiogheny,
close by, are famous trouting streams; and
the glades and oak-clad hills in the neigh-
borhood abound with game.
The crossing of the Great Youghio-
gheny River is by a viaduct of timber
and iron-a single arch of 180 feet span
resting on stone abutments. The site of
this fine structure is wild, the river run-
ning here in a woody gorge.
A few miles beyond Oakland, the boun-
dary line between Maryland and Virginia
is crossed.
1
[CHEAT RIVER.
From Cranberry Summit, "the top-
most round" of the Alleghanies, magnifi-
cent views to the west are to be had. The
descent of 11 miles to Cheat River pre-
sents a rapid succession of very heavy ex-
cavations and embankments.
At one
point the road, after skirting a beautiful
glade, enters a savage-looking pass through
a deep forest of hemlocks and laurel thick-
ets, the stream dashing over large rocks
and washing the side of the road but a
few feet below its level These are known
as the Falls of Snowy Creek. There are
also two tunnels, viz., the McGuire Tun-
nel of 500, and the Rodemer Tunnel of
400 feet in length, secured by the most
durable arches of stone and brick. There
is also a stone and iron viaduct over Salt
Lick Creek 50 feet span and 50 feet high.
The creek passes through a dense forest
of fir-trees in its approach to the river.
|
Cheat River is a dark, rapid mountain
stream, whose waters are of a curious cof-
fee-colored hue, owing, it is said, to its ris-
ing in forests of laurel and black spruce
on the highest mountain levels of that
country. This stream is crossed by a via-
duct consisting of two arches, 180 and 130
feet span, of timber and iron, on stone
abutments and pier.
The ascent to the Cheat River Hill
comes next. This is decidedly the most
imposing section of the whole line-the
difficulties encountered in the four miles
west of the crossing of the river being
quite appalling. The road, winding up the
slope of Laurel Hill and its spurs, with
the river on the right hand, first crosses
the ravine of Kyer's Run 76 feet deep, by
a solid embankment; then, after bold cut-
ting, along a steep, rocky hill-side, it
reaches Buckeye Hollow, the depth of
which is 108 feet below the road level,
and 400 feet across at that level; some
more side cutting in rock ensues, and the
passage of two or three coves in the hill-
side, when we come to Tray Run, and
cross it 150 feet above its original bed by
an iron trestle-work of light and graceful
construction, 600 feet long at the road
level.
For several miles on this part of the
line, the road runs along the steep moun-
tain side, presenting a succession of the
most delightful landscapes. In favorable
weather, day trains stop ten minutes to
17
GRAFTON.]
[FETTERMAN.
afford travellers an opportunity to view | here crossed by a handsome iron bridge.
the viaduct and scenery of this part of
the line.
Here terminates the third or mountain di-
vision of the line. The Northwestern
Virginia Railway to Parkersburg, 104
miles, intersects the main line at this
point. It has a good hotel and dining
saloon.
MARYLAND.
|
After passing these two tremendous
clefts in the mountain side, the road
winds along a precipitous slope with
heavy cutting, filling, and walling, to
Buckhorn Branch, a wide and deep cove
on the western flank of the mountain.
This is crossed by a solid embankment
and retaining wall 90 feet high at its
most elevated point. Some half mile
further, after more heavy cuts and fills,
the road at length leaves the declivity of
the river, which, where we see it for the
last time, lies 500 feet below us, and
turns westward through a low gap, which
admits it by a moderate cutting, followed
soon, however, by a deep and long one
through Cassidy's Summit Ridge to the
table land of the country bordering Cheat
River on the west. Here, 80 miles from
Cumberland, we enter the great western
coal-field, having passed out of the Cum-
berland field 35 miles from that place.
Descending from Cassidy's Ridge, and
passing by a high embankment over the
Bushy Fork of Pringle's Run, the line
soon reaches the Kingwood Tunnel, the
longest finished tunnel in America. This
fine structure, the work of Benjamin H.
Latrobe, is 4,100 feet long, took five
years to build, and cost one million
dollars.
Leaving Kingwood Tunnel, the line for
five miles descends along a steep hillside
to the flats of Raccoon Creek, at Newburg.
In this distance it lies high above the val-
ley, and crosses a branch of it with an
embankment 100 feet in elevation. There
are two other heavy fills further on. Two
miles west of Kingwood Tunnel is Mur-
ray's Tunnel, 250 feet long, a regular
and beautiful semicircular arch cut out
of a fine solid sandstone rock, overlaying
a vein of coal six feet thick, which is seen
on the floor of the tunnel.
|
From Newburg, westward, the route
pursues the valleys of Raccoon and Three
Forks Creeks, which present no features
of difficulty to the Grafton Station. Graf-
ton is nearly equidistant from Cumber-
land and Wheeling, being 100 miles west
of the first, and about 100 east of the
last-named place. It is pleasantly situa-
ted on the Tygart's Valley River, which is
Fetterman, a promising looking village,
two miles further on, is next reached.
Here the turnpike to Parkersburg and
Marietta crosses the river. The route from
Fetterman to Fairmont has but one very
striking feature: the Tygart's Valley Riv-
er, whose margin it follows, is a beau-
tiful and winding stream, of gentle cur-
rent, except at the Falls, where the river
descends, principally by three or four per-
pendicular pitches, some 70 feet in about
a mile.
The view in fine weather is
charming. A mile and a half above Fair-
mont the Tygart's Valley River and the
West Fork River unite to form the Mo-
nongahela, the first being the larger of the
two confluents.
A quarter of a mile below their junc-
tion, the railroad crosses the Mononga-
hela, upon a viaduct 650 feet long and 39
feet above low-water surface. The lofty
and massive abutments of this bridge sup-
port an iron superstructure of three arches
of 200 feet span each, which form the
largest iron bridge in America. It was
five times destroyed and as often rebuilt
during the war. At Fairmont, 77 miles
from Wheeling, the Monongahela is again
spanned by a beautiful suspension bridge
1,000 feet in length.
The road, a mile and a half below Fair-
mont, leaves the valley of the beautiful
Monongahela, and ascends the winding
and picturesque ravine of Buffalo Creek,
a stream some 25 miles in length. The
creek is first crossed five miles west of
Fairmont, and again at two points a short
distance apart, and about nine miles fur-
ther west.
About nine miles beyond Fairmont we
pass the small hamlet of Farmington, and
seven miles further is the thriving village
of "Mannington," at the mouth of P'iles'
Fork of Buffalo. There is a beautiful flat
here on both sides of the stream, affording
room for a town of some size, and sur-
rounded by hills of a most agreeable as-
pect. Thence to the head of Piles' Fork,
the road traverses at first a narrow and
18
LITTLETON STATION.]
[HAGERSTOWN.
There are also several
deep cuts through sharp ridges in the
bends of the creek, and one tunnel 400
feet long at Sheppard's, 19 miles from
Wheeling.
|
serpentine gorge, with five bridges at dif- | ed eight times.
ferent points, after which it courses with
more gentle curvatures along a wider and
moderately winding valley, with meadow
land of one or two hundred yards broad
on one or other margin. Numurous tribu-
taries open out pretty vistas on either
hand. This part of the valley, in its sum-
mer dress, is singularly beautiful. After
reaching its head at Glover's Gap, 23
miles beyond Fairmont, the road passes
the ridge by deep cuts, and a tunnel of
350 feet long, of curious shape, forming
a sort of Moorish arch in its roof. From
this summit (which divides the waters of
the Monongahela from those of the Ohio)
the line descends by Church's Fork of
Fish Creek-a valley of the same general
features with the one just passed on the
eastern side of the ridge.
The approach to the bank of the Ohio
River at the village of Moundsville, 12
miles from Wheeling, is
miles from Wheeling, is very beautiful.
The line, emerging from the defile of
Grave Creek, passes
Grave Creek, passes straight over the
"flats" which border the river, and form-
ing a vast rolling plain, in the middle of
which looms up the "great Indian mound,"
80 feet high and 200 feet broad at its
base. The history of this singular mound
is still involved in mystery. There is
also the separate village of Elizabethtown,
half a mile from the river bank, the
mound standing between two towns and
looking down upon them both. The
|
The road now becomes winding, and in
the next four miles we cross the creek
eight times. We also pass Cole's Tunnel,
112 feet, Eaton's Tunnel, 170 feet, and
Marten's Tunnel, 180 feet long.
flats" embrace an area of some 4,000
acres, about three-fourths of which lies
on the Virginia, and the remaining fourth
on the Ohio side of the river. The soil
is fertile and well cultivated, and the spot
possesses great interest, whether for its
agricultural richness, its historical monu-
ments of past ages, or the beauty of its
shape and position as the site for a large
city.
The Littleton Station is reached just be-
yond, and Board Tree Tunnel is soon at
hand. This tunnel, 40 miles east of Wheel-
ing, passes under a great hill, which was
originally crossed by the railroad on a
zigzag track with seven angles represent-
ing seven V's.
Leaving Board Tree Tunnel, the line
descends along the hill-side of the North
Fork of Fish Creek, crossing ravines and
spurs by deep fillings and cuttings and
reaching the level of the flats bordering
the Creek at Bell's Mill; soon after which
it crosses the creek and ascends Hart's
Run and Four Mile Run to the Welling
Tunnel, 50 miles west of Fairmont, and
28 from Wheeling. This tunnel is 1,250
feet long, and pierces the ridge between
Fish Creek and Grave Creek. It is
through slate rock, like the Board Tree
Tunnel, and is substantially arched with
brick and stone.
|
MARYLAND.
From the Welling Tunnel the line pur-
sues the valley of Grave Creek, 17 miles
to its mouth at the Flats of Grave Creek
on the Ohio River, 11 miles below Wheel-
ing. The first five miles of the ravine of
Grave Creek are of gentle curvature and
open aspect, like the others already men-
tioned. Afterwards it becomes very sin-
uous,
and the stream requires to be bridg-
((
About three miles up the river from
Moundsville, the "flats" terminate, and
the road passes for a mile along rocky
narrows washed by the river, after which
it runs over wide, rich, and beautiful bot-
tom lands, all the way to Wheeling.
Hagerstown, capital of Washing-
ton County, with a population of about
4,000,is a prosperous place, 26 miles north-
west of Frederick, from which it may be
easily reached by stage. It is pleasantly sit-
uated on the west bank of Antietam Creek,
nine miles from the Potomac River. It is
the southern terminus of the Cumberland
Valley Railroad, which runs through
Chambersburg to Harrisburg 74 miles.
It is well located in the midst of a fine
agricultural district, is well built, and con-
tains several substantial edifices. The
Washington is the principal hotel.
Of the numerous routes from the At-
lantic seaboard, southward, that by rail,
via Baltimore and Washington, is the
most expeditious, and, all things consid-
ered, the most popular. We will suppose
the traveller to have made the tour of
19
ANNAPOLIS.]
the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, and to |
have returned to Baltimore, for unless his
ultimate destination be New Orleans, or
some other point on the Mississippi, he
will find it to his advantage, not only as
regards time and money, but also as re-
gards opportunities for sight-seeing, to
continue his journey by the route here
indicated.
MARYLAND.
[BLADENSBURG.
Academy, established in 1845. It has
since been removed to Newport, Rhode
Island. The city contains a market, thea-
tre building, and about 500 private
dwellings.
Many important events occurred in An-
napolis during the period of the Revolu-
tion; and here, at the close of the conflict,
occurred the memorable scene of Washing-
Crossing the Thomas Viaduct, a splen- ton's resignation of his commission. Ă
did structure, which spans the valley of fine picture of this incident, by Edwin
the Patuxent a short distance south of White, has been recently placed in the
the Relay House, mentioned in the com- chamber where it occurred. It was a nim-
mencement of our chapter, on the Balti-portant rendezvous for troops, and depot
more and Ohio Railroad, as connecting the for the receipt and shipment of supplies
branch with the main line, we reach An- during the late rebellion. Near Annap-
napolis Junction, 18 miles from Balti- olis Junction the remains of a large mili-
more. Here a branch road connects with tary camp are still seen.
Leaving the Junction and pursuing
our way southward past Savage, Laurel,
and Beltsville Stations, we reach Bladens-
burg, a pretty little surburban village lying
on both sides of the road, and on the east
side of the Eastern Branch of the Poto-
mac, which it enters immediately below
Washington City. It is conspicuous as
the spot where the national arms sus-
tained a defeat in attempting to arrest
the British in their movement on the
capital, August 24, 1814. It was also a
famous duelling-ground in the early days
of Congressional wrangling. It abounds
in gardens, has a fine mineral spring, and
is much visited by Washingtonians dur-
ing the summer months. Soon after leav-
ing Bladensburg, the lofty dome of the
Capitol rises in view, forming the centre of
an extended landscape, and soon after the
train stops at the foot of Capitol Hill.
|
Annapolis, 21 miles from Annapo-
lis Junction, and 39 from Baltimore. An-
napolis, the capital of Maryland, county
seat and port of entry of Anne Arundel
County, is a place of considerable interest,
from its antiquity and its many historical
associations. It is situated on the west side
of the River Severn, two and a half miles
from Chesapeake Bay. Founded in 1649,
it was first called Providence, next Anne
Arundel Town, and lastly, when it received
a city charter in 1708, Annapolis, in honor
of Queen Anne. It became the seat of the
State Government in 1689, on its remo-
val from St. Mary's, the old capital.
The State House is an interesting edi-
fice. Here is the seat of St. John's Col-
lege, founded in 1784, by an endowment
from the State and by the munificence of
individual citizens. At Annapolis, also,
was located the United States Naval
20

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10 National Observatory
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14 City Hospital
15 Rail Road Depot
16 US.Coast Survey
17 Marine Barracks
18 Congressional Cemetery
19 U.S. Conservatory
20 Armory
21 Smithsonian Institution
22 Washington Monument
23 National Hotel
24 Metropolitan Hotel
25 Seaton House
26 Willards Hotel
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WASHINGTON CITY.]
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
THE District of Columbia is a sui generis
tract, neither State nor Territory, but set
apart as the seat of the Federal Govern-
ment. It was ceded to the United States
for this purpose by Maryland. It occu-
pies an area of 60 square miles. Origi-
nally its measure was one hundred square
miles, the additional forty coming from
Virginia. This part of the cession, how-
ever, was retroceded in 1846. The pres-
ent cities of the District are Washington,
the national capital, and Georgetown,
close by.
Maryland lies upon all sides,
except the southwest, where it is sepa-
rated from Virginia by the Potomac
River.
The District of Columbia is governed
directly by the Congress of the United
States, under act of Congress (Feb. 27,
1801), and its inhabitants have no repre-
sentation, and no voice in the Federal
elections.
Its population, which in 1860 was
78,300, has increased to nearly double
that number; an increase attributable
rather to the demands of the Government
during the military operations of which
Washington was the great centre, than
to the legitimate increase of local trade
and traffic.
Its principal water-course is the Poto-
mac River, which, taking its rise in the
Alleghany Mountains, receives the waters
of several important streams, and after a
winding course of nearly 400 miles, dis-
charges into Chesapeake Bay. Its prin-
cipal tributaries are the Shenandoah, the
Monocacy, the Conococheague, and the
Anacostia or Eastern branch, which forms
the eastern boundary, and Rock Creek,
the western boundary of the capital.
WASHINGTON CITY,
40 miles from Baltimore, 138 from
Philadelphia, 226 from New York.
HOTELS.-Metropolitan (Brown's), Wil-
lard's, Ebbett House, spacious first-class
establishments.
[WASHINGTON CITY.
Washington City, the political capital
of the United States, is situated in the Dis-
trict of Columbia, on the north bank of
the Potomac River, 122 miles north of
Richmond, Virginia.
After much discussion and not a little
ill feeling amongst members of Congress,
and leading men in Pennsylvania, Vir-
ginia, and Maryland, the site for the Fed-
eral capital was decided on, and the
necessary grants of lands made.
The site, if not chosen by Washington
himself, seems to have been selected
through his agency, and it was he who
laid the corner-stone of the Capitol. This
was on the 18th of September, 1793,
seven years before the seat of government
was removed thither from Philadelphia.
Under Washington's direction the city was
planned and laid out by Andrew Ellicott.
The first public communication on record
in regard to laying out the city is from the
pen of General Washington, and bears
date 11th March, 1791. In a subsequent
letter-20th April, 1791-he called it the
"Federal City." It was first known as
"the City of Washington," September 9th
of the same year. Its ancient name was
Conococheague, derived from a rapid
stream of that name which ran near the
city, and which, in the Indian tongue,
means the Roaring Brook. The city was
incorporated May 3, 1802, and is therefore
in its sixty-fifth year. Its limits embrace
an area equal to four and a half miles
long by two and a half broad.
It is idle to speculate upon the action
of legislative bodies, and especially of
those which
those which convene at the national
capital; but should the original plan of
Washington ever be realized in its full
growth to the proportions it was designed
to reach as may yet happen-it will be
in its own right, and without the aid of
its official position, one of the great cities
of the Union. Indeed, it would be diffi-
cult to invent a more magnificent scheme
than that of the founder of Washington,
or to find a location more eligible for its
successful execution. Its easy access
21
WASHINGTON CITY.]
[WASHINGTON City.
|
from the sea gives it every facility for the President's House, and other public
commercial greatness, and its varied to- | works. Portraits of Louis the XVIth
pography almost compels picturesque and Marie Antoinette, King and Queen of
effect and beauty.
France, which were in the Senate Cham-
ber of the Capitol at the time of the
capture, were also burned or stolen. In
1818 it was entirely repaired, and in
1851 (July 4), President Fillmore laid the
corner-stone of the new buildings, which
make the edifice now more than twice its
original size. Its whole length is 751
feet, and the area covered, exclusive
of the court-yards, 153,112 square feet, or
rather more than three and a half acres.
The surrounding grounds, which are beau-
tifully cultivated and embellished by foun-
tains and statuary, embrace from 25 to
30 acres, and are known as the East and
West Grounds. The Senate Chamber and
the Hall of Representatives of the Con-
gress of the United States, are in the
wings, or, as they are more familiarly
known, the "Extension" of the Capitol,
on either side of the central building.
The grand Rotunda contains eight large
pictures, illustrating scenes in American
history, painted for the Government by
native artists. Entering the Rotunda
immediately under the dome at the main
doorway on the east front, the visitor will
find the pictures ranged in the following
order:
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
The scene from the lofty dome of the
Capitol, or from the high terrace upon
which this magnificent edifice stands, is
one of unrivalled beauty, and gives the
visitor at once and thoroughly a clear
idea of the natural advantages of the
location, and of the character, extent, and
possibilities of the city. Looking east-
ward, for the space of a mile or more,
over a level plain, now thickly dotted
with small dwellings, the eye falls upon
the broad and beautiful waters of the
Potomac, flowing by Alexandria and the
classic groves of Mount Vernon, to the sea.
Turning westward, it overlooks the city
as it at present exists, upon the great
highway of Pennsylvania Avenue, to the
edifices of the State and Treasury De-
partments and the President's House, the
avenue dropping toward its centre, as a
hammock might swing between the two
elevated points. Around, on other rising
grounds, the various public edifices are
seen with fine effect; and, turning again
to the left, the view takes in the broad
acres of the new Park, over which may
be seen the towers of the Smithsonian
Institute, and the half-finished shaft of
the Washington Monument; whilst off in
the distance, across Rock Creek, lies the
quaint but picturesque little city of
Georgetown, embosomed in an amphithe-
atre of hills.
1. Discovery of the Mississippi by De
Soto. May, 1541.
2. Baptism of Pocahontas, Jamestown.
May, 1613.
3. Declaration of Independence. Phila
delphia, July 4, 1776.
4.
Those who do not care, or who have
not time to visit the several public build-
ings and objects of interest in and around
Washington, should not fail to make the
ascent of the dome, and enjoy this view.
5.
6.
The visitor will of course turn his first
attention to the public or Government
buildings, which form the especial attrac-
tion of the city.
7.
21 (O. S.), 1620.
The Capitol, not less on account of its
strictly national character than its extent
and magnificence, is entitled to the first
consideration.
8. Landing of Columbus. Oct., 1492.
The third and three following pictures
of the series, were painted by Colonel
John Trumbull, for the Government, at a
total cost of $32,000. It was the picture
of the Declaration that provoked John
Randolph's ungracious and unjust criti-
cism. He called it the shin piece, and a
host of would-be connoisseurs have been
denouncing it ever since. It is really
The corner-stone of this imposing struc-
ture, as we have already stated, was laid
by Washington himself, September 18,
1793. In August, 1814, it was burned
by the British, under Admiral Cockburn,
together with the Library of Congress,
Surrender of General Burgoyne. Sar-
atoga, Oct. 17, 1777.
Surrender of Lord Cornwallis, York-
town, Oct. 19, 1781.
General Washington resigning his Com-
mission. Annapolis, Dec. 23, 1783.
Embarkation of the Pilgrims. July
22
WASHINGTON CITY.]
[WASHINGTON CITY.
one of the best, if not the best painting, | visitors should not fail to make the ascent
in the Rotunda. Over the main entrance of the Dome. A spiral stairway, travers-
is a fine picture by
representing ing the whole superstructure between the
the murder of the Innocents. A full-length outer and inner shells, affords easy access,
portrait of the late President Lincoln, oc- and gives the visitor a favorable opportu-
cupies a similar position over the door- nity for inspecting, from different points
way leading to the Senate Chamber. of view, the fresco painting on the canopy
Over the western entrance is a half portrait overhead. This is the work of Constan-
of the late Joshua R. Giddings. These tine Brumidi, whose altar-piece of the
pictures have little intrinsic merit, and Crucifixion, recently placed in the Cathe-
are valuable and interesting mainly on ac- dral of St. Peter and St. Paul, in Phila-
count of the portraits they contain. The delphia, has been so much admired. It
connoisseur will best decide for himself covers a space of 6,000 square feet, and
their relative merits as works of art. was commenced and completed within
Heads of Columbus, Sir Walter Raleigh, the space of ten months.
Cabot, and La Salle appropriately oc-
cupy alternate panels over the pictures.
In the panels over the four entrances to
the Rotunda are alto-rilievos in stone,
representing Penn's Treaty with the In-
dians, the Landing of the Pilgrims at
Plymouth, the Conflict of Daniel Boone
with the Indians, and the Rescue of
Captain John Smith by Pocahontas.
The floor of the Rotunda, 96 feet in di-
ameter, is of freestone, supported by
arches of brick, resting upon two con-
centric peristyles of Doric columns in the
crypt below. The height of the Rotunda
is 96 feet. On the floor of this Rotunda
were encamped the soldiers of the New
York Seventh Regiment, when they ar-
rived in Washington in April, 1861.
The canopy at its base is 54 feet in
diameter and 250 feet in circumference;
63 figures are contained in the picture,
many of them, in order to produce
the effect necessary for life-size when
seen from the floor beneath, being colos-
sal in their dimensions, and varying from
twelve to seventeen feet in height. The
centre figure will be readily recognized.
It consists of a portrait of Washington, in
a sitting posture. To his right is seated
the Goddess of Liberty, and on the left a
female figure representing Victory and
Fame proclaiming Freedom.
|
In a semi-
circle is a group of females, representiug
the original sister colonies, bearing aloft
a banner on which is inscribed the na-
tional motto. Surrounding this under-
circle, near the base of the design, are
six artistic groups, representing War,
Agriculture, Mechanics, Commerce, the
Navy, and Science.
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
The Dome, which rises over the Ro-
tunda in the centre of the structure, is the
most imposing feature of the vast pile.
The old dome was constructed of brick,
stone, and wood, and sheathed with cop-
per, and rose to the height of 145 feet
from the ground. This was removed in
1856, and the present structure of iron
erected, from designs by Walter, the ar-
chitect of the Extension. The castings
composing the Dome, are from the man-
ufactory of Janes, Beebe & Co., New York.
The weight of iron used in its construction
amounts to ten million lbs. The interior
of the Dome measures 96 feet in diameter,
and 220 feet from the floor to the ceiling. |
Externally, it rises 241 feet above the
roof of the main building, 300 feet above
the eastern, and 396 feet above the west-mounted by the tholus, or ball, and this
ern front. The view of the Dome from in turn by Crawford's statue of Liberty,
the gateway to the Western Grounds, par- 16 feet high, cast in bronze by Clark
tially broken by the intervening forest Mills.
trees, is very fine. As before remarked,
|
In the group representing the Arts and
Sciences the figures of Franklin, Walter,
and Fulton occupy prominent places. Mr.
J. P. Gulick has immediate charge of
this portion of the Dome.
From the gallery immediately under-
neath the fresco gallery, another spiral
stairway leads to the lantern, 17 feet in
diameter and 52 feet high. This is sur-
The overthrow of treason is strongly
typified in the discomfited yet malignant
aspect of the figures which shrink from
view under the feet of the incensed figure
of Liberty and Union.
Leaving the Rotunda by the southern
23
WASHINGTON CITY.]
[WASHINGTON CITY.
|
servedly admired. The unsightly galler-
ies and other unpleasing (but for their
original purpose necessary) features of
the hall have been removed, and the main
corridor now traverses the hall to the
door of the new hall. An ornamental
railing has recently been erected, within
which will be placed the statuary and
paintings which, from time to time, come
into possession of the Government.
doorway, the visitor to the Capitol finds
himself in the south wing of the centre
building, in the Old Hall of Representa
tives. Most persons who visit the Capi-
tol for the first time have their attention
so much absorbed in the new extension,
and the debates which during the session
are carried on there, that they overlook
the objects of interest in the central edi-
fice; yet, as a late writer has justly re-
marked, there is no room in the new
buildings comparable in beauty to the old
Representatives' Hall. This fine chamber
really forms one of the most interesting
relics of the history of Congress. It is,
moreover, replete with historical associa-
tions of the deepest interest. The ruined
towers and fretted aisles of the Old World,
moss-clad and ivy-wreathed, may delight
the eye and please the sense of the Euro-
pean tourist, dillettanti, and scholar more
than these sombre and unromantic walls,
bare and whitewashed as they are; but
surely to the American-born citizen they
must ever be replete with an interest well-
nigh sacred. On the floor of this hall all
the great men of the first half century of
the republic figured. Here Clay presid-
ed, here Webster spoke, here Adams
died; but the reader's knowledge of Amer-
ican history is, doubtless, better than the
author's; besides, the limits of a guide-
book forbid any attempt at historical
picture-painting. The apartment is semi-
circular in form, 95 feet in length and 60
feet high to the apex of the ceiling. The
columns which support the entablature
are 24 in number, and constructed of va-
riegated green brecchia,or pudding-stone,
from the Potomac Valley, and cost over
$8,000 apiece. There is nothing like
them nor so fine elsewhere in Washington.
The ceiling is painted in panel, to imitate
that of the Pantheon at Rome. Light is
admitted through a cupola in the centre
of the ceiling. In the tympanum of the
arch stands a statue of Liberty, executed
in plaster by Causici. A full-length por-
trait of Lafayette, presented to Congresssion
on the occasion of his visit in 1825, oc-
cupies a place on the western wall; op-
posite is a portrait of Washington by
Vanderlyn. The statue by Franzoni, rep-
resenting History standing in a winged
car, the wheel of which, by an ingenious
device, forms the dial of a clock, is de-
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
The plaster model of Crawford's statue
of Freedom which crowns the dome of the
building, and busts of Secretary Stanton
and Crawford the sculptor, occupy the
left of the entrance to the main corridor.
On the right are statues of Washington
and Kosciusko, and busts of Presidents
Lincoln and Johnson.
The Bronze Door, which opens out of
the old hall upon the corridor leading to
the new hall, is a work of considerable
merit, though seen to poor advantage in
its present position. It is composed en-
tirely of bronze, and weighs 20,000
pounds. It was designed by Randolph
Rogers, an American artist, and modelled
by him in Rome in 1858. The cast was
executed by F. Von Müller, at Munich, in
1861. The work is in alto-rilievo, and
commemorates the history of Columbus
and the discovery of America. It is 17
feet high, 9 feet wide, and cost $30,000.
The door has eight panels, each contain-
ing a distinct scene in the life of the great
discoverer, the last the death scene, in
which Columbus is represented surround-
ed by his friends and attendants, with his
eyes fixed upon the crucifix, feebly mut-
tering his last words, "In manus tuas
Domine commendo spiritum meum," is a
beautifully executed and impressive pic-
ture. The statuettes, sixteen in number,
between the panels and on the sides of
the door, represent the eminent contempo-
raries of Columbus.
Advancing southward along the corri-
dor, a few steps bring us to the new hall
of the House of Representatives. Admis-
to the floor of the House is only
granted before the morning session, or
during a recess of the House. The cham-
her itself is 139 feet long, 93 feet wide,
and 30 feet high. The lowness of the
ceiling, which is supported by trusses from
the roof beyond, and panelled with stain-
ed glass, gives this otherwise fine apart-
24
WASHINGTON CITY.]
The
ment a gloomy and cramped appearance, |
which the gaudy, garish character of the
decoration serves rather to heighten.
The Strangers' Gallery, to which ready
ascent is afforded by means of two grand
marble stairways, extends entirely round
the hall, and affords seats for 1,200 per-
sons; sections of the gallery are railed
off for the use of the diplomatic corps
and the reporters for the press.
space not specially appropriated to their
use is open to visitors. The Speaker's
Room, immediately in the rear of his
chair, is a highly decorated apartment.
From the southern lobby of the House
two stairways descend to the basement,
where are located the Refectory and vari-
ous committee-rooms. The room of the
Committee on Agriculture will repay a
visit; the walls and ceiling are painted in
fresco by Brumidi. To those who visit
the Capitol during the spring or summer
months, a walk through the basement
will be appreciated as not the least en-
joyable feature of the visit. The corridor,
which is 24 feet wide, contains 30 mono-
lithic fluted columns of white marble,
with foliated capitals, and, from the thick-
ness of the surrounding walls and exclu-
sion from the sun's rays is a refreshingly
cool place for a promenade.
Traversing the basement to the north
end, we reach the floor above by a stair-
way similar to that leading from the Hall
of Representatives.
The Senate Chamber presents few feat-
ures worthy special notice, after visiting
the Hall of Representatives. It is some-
what smaller than the other, being 112
feet long by 82 feet in width, and is open
to the same objection on account of the
lowness of the ceiling. Being ornament-
ed and fitted with better taste, however,
it has a more pleasing general appear-
ance. The galleries are reached by mar-
ble stairways similar to those in the south
wing. These staircases really constitute
the most striking architectural displays
in the recent extension of the Capitol.
Those who have the necessary time at
their disposal, will be repaid by visit-
ing the President's and Vice-President's
Rooms, the Senators' Retiring-Room, the
Reception-Room, and Senate Post-Office.
In the President's room, which adjoins
the retiring-chamber on the west, are
[WASHINGTON CITY.
frescoes typical of the history of the
country; also portraits of the first Pres-
ident and his Cabinet, by Brumidi. The
room of the Vice-President contains a
portrait of Washington by Rembrandt
Peale. Admission to the galleries of both
Senate and House can always be obtain-
ed on application to the Door-keeper or
any of his assistants.
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
!
The Supreme Court Room, a semicir-
cular apartment 75 feet long and 45 feet
high, situated upon the eastern side of
the north wing of the centre building, is
interesting. Busts of the former Chief
Justices Jay, Rutledge, Ellsworth, and
Marshall, adorn the walls. Underneath
the Supreme Court room is the apartment
formerly occupied by the Court, and de-
voted to the Law Library. The corn-stalk
columns which ornament the entrance to
this apartment, and the tobacco-leaf cap-
itals of the circular colonnade, between
the old Senate Chamber and the Rotunda,
are worthy of notice. This library, which
is separated from the main library of Con-
gress for the convenience of the Court,
contains upwards of 16,000 volumes, and
is rich in works upon civil, maritime, and
commercial law;`a catalogue was pub-
lished in 1860. The principal architec-
tural feature of this room are the arches
which spring from the massive arched
ribs of stone resting on Doric columns.
The Library of Congress occupies a
suitable apartment, which, when fully
completed, will embrace the entire west-
ern projection of the centre building.
The main room is 91 feet long and 34
feet wide, ceiled with iron, and fitted up
with fire-proof cases. It has been found
that in this particular too much caution
cannot be exercised. The collection of
books was commenced under act of Con-
gress, April 24, 1800, at the suggestion
of President Jefferson; the collection,
amounting, to 3,000 volumes, was destroy-
ed when the Capitol was burnt by the
British in 1814. In December, 1851, the
library numbered 55,000; a second fire,
which occurred on the 24th of that
month, swept away all but 20,000 vol-
umes; among those saved were fortunately
a large portion of the Jefferson collection.
The present library-room was completed
July, 1853, at a cost of nearly $73,000.
The annual appropriations for the pur-
2
25
WASHINGTON CITY.]
chase of books amount to $7,000. The
collection now numbers 70,000, exclu-
sive of documents, which number nearly
as many more; a catalogue of the books
has just been published. The library is
open to all throughout the sessions of
Congress, and on stated days during the
recess. Since the erection of the bronzed
gates to guard the alcoves containing the
books, this famous library has lost many
of its attractions for the literary lounger;
neither is it so attractive to the ladies
who, during the pendency of dull debates,
whilome found these alcoves such pleasant
places for quiet flirtation. The Document
Library is reached by a flight of stairs at
the left of the entrance to the old Hall of
Representatives.
On the eastern portico, and in the
grounds surrounding the Capitol, are
several works of art, conspicuous among
which are Persico's statues of Columbus,
of Peace, and of War, and the group of
statuary representing Civilization, by
Greenough; the statue of Washington, ex-
ecuted by the same artist, representing the
Father of his Country seated on a pedes-
tal of granite 12 feet high, in imitation of
the antique statue of Jupiter Tonans, can-
not be regarded as a very truthful or ar-
tistic effort. The whole cost of the Cap-
itol buildings, as they exist at this time,
(1866), has been nearly $12,000,000;
work upon it has never been entirely sus-
pended since the commencement of the
war.
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
[WASHINGTON CITY.
|
feet high. The surrounding grounds, which
embrace an area of about 20 acres, slope
gradually to the Potomac on the south.
A circular colonnade of six Doric pillars
adorns this front, from which is a pictur-
esque view of the river and Virginia shore.
On the north front, overlooking Pennsyl-
vania Avenue, is a portico with four Ionic
columns, under which carriages pass. In
the lawn, immediately in front of this
drive, is a bronze statue of Jefferson.
On the grounds south of the White
House a band of music performs Wed-
nesday and Saturday afternoons, during
the summer months, when there is usually
a large attendance of ladies from the city.
It is proposed to build a new Presidential
Mansion, in which case the Department
of State will occupy the present White
House.
The President receives calls every week-
day, except Cabinet days and special ap-
pointment days, from 10 to 1 o'clock. A
grand levée is held at the White House
on New-Year's Day; this is regarded as
the opening levée, after which, of late
years, it has been the custom to con-
sider fortnightly evening levées as in
order. The President's Lady, in compa-
ny with the President, also gives a recep-
tion weekly, during the session of Con-
gress, usually on Saturday mornings. The
announcements of the daily press furnish
the best guide in this particular.
Lafayette Square, on the north side of
Pennsylvania Avenue, in the immediate
vicinity of the President's Mansion, affords
a pleasant ramble. In the centre of the
square is Clark Mills's well-known eques-
trian statue of Jackson, erected January,
1853. The pose of the rider and the
poise of the horse may be regarded as
miracles of art.
The Executive Mansion, or White
House, as it is popularly called, is 11
miles west of the Capitol, upon a high
terrace, at the opposite extremity of
Pennsylvania Avenue, surrounded by the
Treasury, State, War, and Navy Depart-
ments. The corner-stone of the building
was laid with appropriate ceremonies on
the 13th October, 1792. It was built
from designs by James Hoban, and was
modelled after the palace of the Duke of
Leinster; it was much injured during the
occupation of the city by the British, and
extensive repairs were found necessary,
which were made in 1815, under the su-
pervision of the same architect. It is two
stories high, 170 feet long, and 86 feet
deep, built of freestone, and painted
white. The "East Room" is a fine apart-
ment, 80 feet long, 40 feet wide, and 20
|
The Treasury Department.-The rav-
ages of fire, and the constantly increasing
business of the Government, has required
repeated and extensive additions to and ex-
tensions of the public buildings of Wash-
ington. Perhaps the most noteworthy
instance of this rapid growth and ad-
vancement in the material wealth of the
nation is furnished in the present extent
of the United States Treasury building.
The act establishing the Treasury De-
partment was approved September 2, 1789.
The first edifice erected for the purpose
26
WASHINGTON CITY.]
[WASHINGTON City.
mass of copper-ore from Ontonagon, Lake
Superior. It is said to have been origi-
nally used as a sacrificial rock by the In-
dians, who regarded it with peculiar awe
and veneration. It cost the United States
$5,640.
of a United States Treasury, was destroyed |
by the British in 1814. The second
was also burned down in the spring of
1833. The east front of the present
building, on Fifth Street, with its un-
broken Ionic colonnade of 300 feet, occu-
pies the site of the old Treasury building.
This colonnade was modelled after that
of the Temple of Minerva at Athens.
It was commenced in the summer of
1836. The extension, now nearly com-
pleted, was begun in 1855, from designs
by Walter, the architect of the Capitol
extension. The plan of the extension
flanks the old building at each end with
massive fronts. The old building is com-
posed of brown sandstone, painted-
the recent extension is of solid granite
from Dix Island, on the coast of Maine.
When completed, and it only lacks the
northern front, it will be 514 feet long,
by 275 feet in width. The interior
arrangement of the building is admirable. |
The State Department.-The Depart-
ment of State, at present, occupies an un-
pretending two-story brick building on
the corner of Pennsylvania Avenue and
Fifteenth Street. This will probably be
removed in a short time, to make
way for
the northern front of the Treasury build-
ing, already referred to. The organization
of this Department embraces the following
bureaus, under the immediate jurisdiction
of their respective officers, viz.: the Dip-
lomatic Branch, the Consular Branch,
the Disbursing Agent, Translator, Ap-
pointments and Commissions, Rolls and
Archives, Territorial business, Pardons
and Passports, and Statistics. The Li-
brary contains books, maps, and charts,
to the number of 16,000, and is worthy
of examination.
|
The printing of the public paper moneys,
popularly known during and ever since
the war as "greenbacks," is carried on
in the basement and upper floors of this
building. A permit from the Secretary
of the Treasury is necessary for admis-
sion to this part of the building. The
grounds on the south, or Potomac front,
are used by the various cricket and base-
ball clubs of the city.
The War and Navy Departments, fac-
ing each other on Pennsylvania Avenue
and Seventeenth Street, west of the
west of the
White House, are plain brick buildings,
with nothing but their size and past im-
portance to invite attention. They were
enlarged in 1864-'65, in order to meet the
greatly increased demands of the Gov-
ernment growing out of the war.
→
A large stone building on the west side
of Seventeenth Street, and nearly opposite
the Navy Department, known as Winder's
Building, is attached to the War Depart-
ment, for clerical purposes. A collection
of flags and other trophies captured
during the rebellion, will be found in
both these Departments. The visitor's
card, accompanied by a request, will in-
sure permission from the Secretary to see
them.
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
In the open space between the War
and Navy Departments, those curious in
such matters will do well to examine a
The Patent-Office, sometimes but errone-
ously called the Department of the Interior,
is centrally located on F Street, between
Seventh and Ninth Streets. It occupies
the entire block, having a frontage of 410
feet on F Street, and extending back 275
feet to G Street. It was built after designs
by Wm. P. Elliott, and extended recently
by Edward Clark. It is admired, not less
for the simplicity of its style than for its
extent and the massive grandeur of its
proportions. The style of architecture is
Doric. There are porticoes on the east,
west, and south fronts. The north front
is not yet quite complete. The interior
of this building is admirably designed
and handsomely finished. The basement
is occupied by the Bureau of Agriculture
and the Indian office. In the second or
main floor are located the office of the
Secretary of the Interior, the General
Land-Office, the Pension and Census Bu-
reaus, and the office of the Commissioner
of Patents. The principal feature of the
whole building is the Model-Room of the
Patent-Office, which occupies the entire
upper floor of the edifice, forming four
large halls or chambers, unequalled for
extent and beauty on the continent. The
total length of this floor is 1,350 feet, or
rather more than a quarter of a mlle.
27
WASHINGTON CITY.]
[WASHINGTON CITY.
The East Hall is devoted to mechanical | two fountains. The main entrance to the
models, the north to models of agricul- building is from F Street.
tural implements, and the West Hall to
rejected models. The entire collection
numbers over 50,000 articles; an enu-
meration of them here might weary the
reader, and is therefore omitted. The
fresco painting on the roof of the south
room is much admired for its freshness
and elaborate detail. In this room are
cascs containing a collection of Revolu-
tionary curiosities and relics, among
which are the printing-press of Ben
Franklin, and the wardrobe, and many of
the other personal effects of Washington,
worn by him when he resigned his com-
mission as Commander-in-Chief. Near
these are cases for the preservation of
medals and treaties of the United States
with foreign powers. Among the latter
are treaties with Louis Philippe (1831),
Louis XVI. of France (1778), and Louis
XVIII. of France (1822). A fine collection
of sabres, presented by Bey Ali Pacha to
Captain Perrie of the United States ship
Concord," at Alexandria, 1832, adorns
the upper end of this case. Cases adjoining
these to the west, and numbered four and
five, contain a collection of Goodyear's
patent rubber goods. On the left of the
main stairway are four cases containing
robes presented by the Government of
Japan to United States Consul-General
Harris, June 16, 1859. The rich color-
ing and fantastic patterns of these vest-
ments are much admired. The gifts of
the Tycoon to President Lincoln arc
worthy close inspection.
The General Post-Office, opposite the
south front of the Patent-Office, is an
imposing edifice of white marble in the
modified Corinthian style. The building
rests on a rustic basement, scarcely dis-
cernible since the raising of the street
grade. It is 300 feet long, 204 feet deep,
and three stories high. It was com-
menced in 1839, extended in 1855, under
the direction of Mr. Walter, and finished
in 1865. Monoliths of Italian marble
form the columns of the extension. The
City Post-Office occupies a portion of
the north or F Street front. The whole
upper portion is appropriated to the use
of the General or United States Post-
Office. Papers left by Ben Franklin,
when Postmaster General, are preserved
here.
|
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
Powers's fine statue of Washington,
taken by General Butler from the Louis-
iana State House at Baton Rouge, is also
in this room, near the head of the stairway.
The Model-Room throughout forms one
of the most interesting sights at the
national capital. The whole building,
except the north front, which is of brown
sandstone, painted to correspond with the
rest of the building, is of crystallized
marble. The broad platform of the
southern portico is reached by a flight of
granite steps, 28 in number, and has
a double row of fluted Doric columns,
each 18 feet in circumference. The
inner quadrangle of the structure meas-
ures 265 feet by 135 feet, and contains
The Smithsonian Institute occupies the
area of the New Park, west of the Capitol,
and south of Pennsylvania Avenue, known
as the Mall. The easiest approach from
Pennsylvania Avenue is by the Seventh
Street bridge. This noble institution was
endowed by James Smithson, Esq., of
England, "for the increase and diffusion
of knowledge among men.
The edifice,
which is constructed of red sandstone, in
the Norman or Romanesque style, was
commenced in 1847, and completed soon
after. Its length is 450 feet, its breadth
140, and it has nine towers, ranging from
75 to 150 feet high. It contains a lecture-
room, with sittings for 1,200 auditors; a
museum of natural history, 200 feet in
length; a superb laboratory; a library-
room capable of holding 100,000 volumes;
and a gallery for pictures and statuary,
120 feet in length. The grounds attached
to the Institute, embracing about 50 acres,
were laid out by the late A. J. Downing,
whose name, so long connected with rural
art, and whose melancholy death, will long
be remembered. A monument erected to
his memory by the American Pomological
Society, stands near the Institute.
The Washington Monument.—All guide
and hand-books to Washington, and their
name is legion, reserve a conspicuous
place for the Washington Monument,
contrasting its prospective proportions
with the great Pyramid of Cheops in
""
28
WASHINGTON CITY.]
|
Egypt, the Tower of Malines in Belgium,
and other celebrated monuments, and in-
dulging all sorts of speculative fancies re-
garding its future extent and magnificence.
The truth is, that the monument as it now
exists is a very small and insignificant
affair, and, in the out-of-the-way position
it occupies, scarcely worth the trouble of
visiting it. The design contemplated a
shaft 600 feet in height, with an orna-
mented base modelled after the Pantheon
at Rome, estimated alone to cost over
half a million dollars. Within the base
or "Temple" it is contemplated to place
statues of Revolutionary heroes and relics
of Washington. It is to be surrounded
by a colonnade of thirty Doric pillars,
with suitable entablature and balustrade.
Each State contributes a block of native
stone or other material, which is to be
placed in the interior walls. Many of
these blocks are beautiful specimens,
worthy of inspection. They are contained
in a shed near the structure. The mon-
ument, in its present state of progress, is
170 feet high, and has cost $230,000. |
Work on it has been suspended for some
time.
The Arsenal, located on Greenleaf's
Point, near the confluence of the Eastern
Branch with the Potomac, is worthy a
visit.
visit. The buildings were commenced in
1814, under the superintendence of Colo-
nel Bomford. The Model-Room, and the
famous batteries of Bragg and Duncan,
will interest the student of military sci-
ence. Many old pieces of ordnance, cap-
tured during the war of '76, are preserved
here. A frightful explosion occurred here
December 18, 1865.
The Military Asylum, or "Soldiers'
Home," as it is more familiarly known,
should not be omitted among the "places
worth seeing" in Washington. It occu-
pies a high plateau three miles north of
the city. The drive thither is among the
most pleasant the District affords. The
site was selected by General Scott. The
main building is 600 feet long, built of
Eastchester marble, in the Norman style
of architecture. It has been the custom
of the Presidents, since Mr. Pierce's ad-
ministration, to occupy one of the small-
er buildings of the Home as a summer
resort, and here the late lamented Lin-
coln passed some of the last hours of his
eventful term.
The Congressional Cemetery is about
a mile east of the Capitol, near the East-
ern Branch. Its situation is high, and
commands fine pictures of the surrounding
country. The original name of this cem-
etery was the "Washington Parish Burial-
Ground." It contains several monuments
of interest, among which are those to
George Clinton, Elbridge Gerry, and Wil-
liam Wirt. There are upward of 150
cenotaphs erected to the memory of mem-
bers of Congress, who have died during
their terms of office.
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
[WASHINGTON CITY.
ated in the southeastern section of a plot
of 70 acres, on the Eastern Branch.
The Armory, appropriated, as the
name implies, to the preservation of the
ordnance and arms of the United States
required for the use of the District mili-
tia and similar purposes, is an unpretend-
ing
ing three-story brick building, on the
Mall east of the Smithsonian Institute.
The National Observatory is well loca-
ted on rising ground near the Potomac,
between the Navy Department and George-
town, commanding a fine view of the riv-
er and the two cities. This site was for-
merly known as Camp Hill, and is said to
have been the precise spot on which Gener-
al Washington encamped with Braddock's
forces. It was founded in 1842, and was
originally designed and used for a hydro-
graphical office. The transit instrument,
in the west wing, and the prime vertical
transit in the south wing of the building,
are fine instruments. A library of astro-
nomical works, and a normal clock by
Kessels, of Altona, are in the Superintend-
ent's room. Open for visitors daily, from
9 to 3 o'clock.
The Navy Yard, on the Eastern Branch,
about three fourths of a mile southeast
of the Capitol, has an area of 27 acres,
enclosed by a substantial brick wall.
Within this enclosure, besides houses for
the officers, are shops and warehouses,
two large ship-houses, and an armory,
which, like the rest of the establishment,
is kept in the finest order. The Navy
Magazine is a large brick structure, situ-
1
Glenwood, another city of the dead, pos-
sessing greater beauty if less interest, is
situated about a mile north of the Capitol.
The principal public buildings of the
city (not strictly national) are the City
29
WASHINGTON CITY.]
[WASHINGTON CITY.
Hall in North D Street, between Fourth | may be mentioned that belonging to the
and Fifth Streets; and the Columbia Col- | Indian Bureau, in the Patent-Office build-
lege, on Fourteenth Street, near the north- ing, and that in the Smithsonian Insti-
ern limits of the city.
tute, both consisting mainly of portraits
of Indian chiefs who, at different times,
have visited the capital. The first-nam-
ed collection was painted by King, the lat-
ter by Stanley. The private collections in
the city, however, far excel in number
and value those in the possession of the
Government. That of Mr. W. W. Corco-
ran, the banker, has some very fine pic-
tures and statuary, prominent among
which are Powers's Greek Slave, and
the Attack of the Huguenots, by W. D.
Washington. Mr. J. C. Maguire, Mr.
Janvier, and other well-known collectors,
have also opened their galleries to artists
and lovers of art.
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
The Insane Asylum occupies a promi-
nent location on the east bank of the Poto-
mac. It is 711 feet long, and is surround-
ed by pretty grounds.
Among the church edifices of Wash-
ington, the most noteworthy are Trin-
ity, corner of Third and North C Streets,
Church of the Epiphany (Dr. Hall's), on
G near Thirteenth Street, St. John's,
on Lafayette Square, opposite the Exec-
utive Mansion, all belonging to the Epis-
copalians; St. Aloysius (R. C.), north of
the Capitol; First Presbyterian, on Four
and a half Street, near Louisiana Ave-
nue; and Foundry Church (M. E.), re-
cently reconstructed, corner of Four-
teenth and G Streets.
|
The places of public amusement in
Washington are few and insignificant.
Grover's Theatre, on E Street, east of
Willard's Hotel, is the best worthy of
patronage. The old Washington Theatre,
on Eleventh Street, south of Pennsylvania
Avenue, is occasionally open during the
winter months. Ford's New Theatre, once
a popular and well-conducted establish-
ment, is now an object of melancholy in-
terest, from having been the scene of the
assassination of President Lincoln. This
event occurred on Friday, April 14, 1865,
The door by which the assassin Booth es-
caped is in the rear of the stage, at the
back of the theatre. The building is
closed by order of the War Department.
The room in which the murdered Presi-
dent breathed his last is a back, or exten-
sion chamber in the house No. 453 Tenth
street, opposite the entrance to the theatre.
Among the banking houses of the city,
that recently erected for Messrs. Jay
Cooke & Co., and the First National Bank,
on Fifteenth Street, opposite the eastern
entrance to the United States Treasury,
are the most prominent and most costly.
The banking house of the well-known
firm of Messrs. Riggs & Co. occupies a
prominent site at the northern intersec-
tion of Pennsylvania Avenue and Fif-
teenth Street.
Among the fine-arts collections in
Washington, aside from that already re-
ferred to in the Rotunda of the Capitol,
•
The rooms of the Washington Library
Association, on Eleventh Street, are wor-
thy a visit. The association was incorpo-
rated in 1814. The collection numbers 15,-
000 volumes. The Patent-Office Library
is rich in scientific and mechanical works.
Here may be found a complete set of the
reports of the British and French Patent
Commissioners. The largest and most
valuable private collection of books to be
found in Washington is that of Mr. Peter
Force; it numbers upward of 50,000, and
is specially rich in works on American
history. Its loss would be a national
calamity.
The British Embassy is at present loca-
ted in the residence lately occupied by
Dr. Maynard, on Pennsylvania Avenue,
between the Circle and Georgetown. It is
customary, but by no means obligatory,
for British visitors to register there.
|
Visitors to Washington will be spared
a great deal of needless expense, delay,
and inconvenience, by bearing in mind
that all public buildings, including the
Capitol and the several Departments, are
open to the public from 10 A. M. to 3 p. M.
(Sundays excepted), and closed at all
other times. No fees are asked or ex-
pected for showing them. With few ex-
ceptions, all objects of interest in and
around the city can be readily reached
by street-cars. If you prefer other modes
of conveyance, order your own livery,
deal only with principals, and observe the
regulations duly provided in such cases.
By all means avoid the noisy hackmen,
|
30
P
VICINITY.]
[GEORGETOWN.
who infest street corners and hotel-bars. | from them the relative distance and di-
Avoid second and third-class hotels. If rection of other points and localities can
you are likely to stay a week, or longer, be readily obtained. The Aqueduct, by
secure only lodgings, of which there are which the waters of the Chesapeake and
a great number, and board at a restau- Ohio Canal are carried over the Potomac,
rant. Gautier's, 252 Pennsylvania Avenue, will repay inspection. It is 1,446 feet
ther east, are the best; French and Ger-
man spoken; wines and cigars excellent.
Avoid barber-shops and bath-rooms; or,
if it is warm weather, and total immer-
sion is necessary to your comfort, go
bathe in the Potomac, for the baths of
the Capitol, unlike those of Siloam, never
wash clean.
or the Restaurant Beuhler, two blocks fur-long and 36 feet high. The conduit has
a nine-foot vent, and discharges 68,000,-
000 gallons in twenty-four hours. The
piers, nine in number, are built of granite,
embedded 17 feet in the river bottom.
It was constructed under the direction of
Major Turnbull, U. S. Topographical En-
gineers, and cost $2,000,000. The canal
extends 184 miles to Cumberland, Mary-
land, and cost $12,000,000. Georgetown
College, at the west end of the city,
is an old institution of learning. The
first edifice was commenced in 1788, and
completed in 1795. In 1799 it became
"The College of Georgetown." In May,
1815, it was incorporated a university.
The Medical Department was added in
1851. The buildings are spacious, and
contain a well-selected library of 25,000
volumes, an observatory, and a Museum
of Natural History. It is under the di-
rection of the Jesuits. In the rear of
the college is a pretty rural serpentine
walk, commanding a still prettier view.
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
VICINITY OF WASHINGTON.
Proceeding westward along Pennsylva-
nia Avenue, half a mile beyond the War
Department, we pass a small, open ground
enclosed within an ornamental railing, and
known as "The Circle." In the centre of
the enclosure is an equestrian statue of
Washington, by Clark Mills, finished in
1860. Beyond the Circle, on the right,
are seen several private residences, con-
spicuous among which is the headquar-
ters of the British Legation, already men-
tioned. In crossing the iron bridge, which
spans Rock Creek at the foot of the Ave-
nue, a fine view is had of the Heights of
Georgetown on one side, and the high
bank of the Potomac on the opposite or
Virginia shore.
Georgetown. HOTELS. Lang's,
The Union. Distant little more than two
miles from Capitol Hill, and divided only
by Rock Creek from Washington City,
Georgetown may be almost regarded as
forming a suburb of the national capital.
Since the introduction of street-cars, the
tide of travel between the two cities is
very great. The city is beautifully loca-
ted on a range of hills, which command a
view unsurpassed for extent and beauty
in the Potomac Valley. It was laid out
by act of the colonial government of
Maryland, June 8, 1751, and was incor-
porated December 25, 1789. It is a port
of entry, and carries on a considerable
coasting trade; a line of steamships plies
between New York and this port. The
city presents many points of attraction,
The Heights should first be visited, as
The Convent of the Visitation, founded in
1799, is on Fayette Street. The building
appropriated for the Ladies' Academy is
of brick, about 250 feet in length; the in-
terior is a combination of neatness and
elegance. Visitors are admitted between
the hours of 11 and 2 o'clock. The resi-
dence of the archbishop of the diocese is
near by. On the heights north of the
convent is an Asylum for Destitute Color-
ed Women and Children. Oak Hill Ceme-
tery, on the northeastern declivity of the
heights, is a romantic burying-ground. It
was laid out in 1849, by its donor, Mr.
Corcoran, whose vault of white marble
occupies a prominent place in the ceme-
tery. The granite monument to M. Bo-
disco, the late Russian minister, is wor-
thy of notice; it was sent from St. Pe-
tersburg by the Russian Government.
An elegant Gothic chapel with stained-
glass windows, planned by Renwick, and
now overgrown with ivy, is an attractive
feature of this really pretty spot.
Georgetown contains several churches,
a flourishing academy, and other educa-
31
VICINITY.]
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
[ARLINGTON,
|
Population about | mer-houses, rusty canteens, and all the
discarded remains of camp life-these are
the features of a landscape that was once
a summer resort for gayety and mirth-
the Sans Souci gardens of Washington.
The road to Arlington is a climb nearly
all the way, and for the first half mile we
rode in the rear of an army of several
thousand, and consequently in a cloud
of dust that was not relieved by bumping
in and out of the ruts made by heavy
ambulances. At last our way turned and
became smooth and less desolate; the
trees were green, so were the fields be-
neath them, and every thing, though neg-
lected, was uninjured. Then we saw
what appeared to me two very good imi-
tations of the castle of Giant Despair.
They were the houses of two declared en-
emies of the Government who had never
been convicted of any active treason, but
were considered sufficiently worthy of at-
tention to be interdicted from leaving their
own grounds on any pretence whatever
And here they both abide within a few
furlongs of each other, yet apart; with
liberty to range at will in the narrow cir-
cuit of their desolate gardens, yet in re-
ality close prisoners and under strict
watch. They had not taken kindly to
their captivity, if the utterly ruinous
aspect of their surroundings could speak
for them, and the sluggish gloom that
rested on every thing must have been a
reflection to their own hearts.
tional institutions.
9,000.
The Potomac in the vicinity of George-
town abounds in fish; shad and herring
are taken in great abundance, large quan-
tities being exported monthly through
the season. A dish of baked shad con-
stitutes one of the dinner-table attrac-
tions of the District.
Arlington House, once the mansion of
George Washington Parke Custis, the last
but one survivor of the Washington fam-
ily, occupies a commanding position on
the Virginia side of the river, nearly oppo-
site Georgetown. It stands more than 200
feet above the river, and the view from
the portico of the building is among the
best this part of the Potomac affords.
The collection of pictures and other rel-
ies, among them the Mount Vernon plate
and the bed and bedstead of Washing-
ton, have passed into other hands. Be-
fore the war, Arlington formed part of
the estate of Robert E. Lee, afterwards
known as the Commander-in-chief of the
Confederate army. The ravages of war
have laid waste this once lovely spot.
The beautiful heights, upon which the
house and grounds stood, were occupied
by Union troops May 2, 1861; they are
now occupied by the Freedmen's Vil-
lage. Fort Albany is near by. A recent
visit to Arlington Heights and the set-
tlement surrounding them is thus de-
scribed:
|
"Being provided with passports, a good
carriage, willing horses, and a shrewd dri-
ver, we started gayly through the wide
streets of Washington, and were soon on
that longest of Long Bridges, that spans
the Potomac. As we were obliged to
walk the horses, the drive over being a
mile, gives us ample time to prepare our
minds for entering on that sacred soil of
the F. F. V.'s, that the irreverent Yan-
kees are said to describe as 'Poor, old,
worn-out, God-forsaken Virginia.' It is
the first glimpse a Northerner can catch
of the iron hoof of war, and as you roll
over the dusty, broken road, it rises
around you on every side and forms a
desolate picture. Broken fences, clayey
fields, felled trees, and deserted houses,
the charred remains of camps, fires light-
ed in the midst of pleasure-grounds, and
fed with the broken lattice-work of sum-
·
"About three-quarters of a mile before
you reach Arlington House, you come
upon the village (Freedmen's), which is
built terrace-fashion, circling the brow of
the heights. It contained at that time
about 1,800 inhabitants, and consisted
of two and a half storied white frame
houses, built in small rows along aven-
ues, designated by the names of Garrison,
Lovejoy, Fremont, etc. Leaving our con-
veyance, we climbed up the hilly path
to the superintendent's house, which is
comfortably large and airy, but bare and
unimproved like all the rest."
The number of freedmen here congre-
gated is about 2,000, and a chapel has
been erected for religious service. Near
the river, at the foot of an umbrageous
oak, is the famous Arlington Spring.
The Little Falls of the Potomac, three
miles above Georgetown, are a succession
32
ALEXANDRIA.]
of romantic cascades at the head of tide-
water. The scenery is wild and pic-
turesque, and the waters abound in fish;
striped bass is the most common. These
waters were a favorite angling-haunt of
Daniel Webster, and no spot within easy
reach of the visitor to the capital pre-
sents more varied attractions. Great
Falls, 12 miles beyond, present a scene
of unusual, picturesque, and grand effect.
The road thither affords a pleasant car-
riage drive.
[MOUNT VERNON.
|
| during the late rebellion; upwards of
half a million troops are estimated to have
crossed upon it.
Mount Vernon, sacred as the home
and tomb of Washington, is upon the
west bank of the Potomac, 15 miles be-
low the capital, and eight miles from
Alexandria. Mount Vernon, then known
as the Hunting Creek estate, was be-
| queathed by Augustine Washington, who
died in 1743, to Lawrence Washington,
who received a captain's commission in
one of the four regiments raised in the
colonies, to aid the mother country in
her struggle against France and Spain.
It was named after Admiral Vernon, un-
der whom Lawrence Washington had
served, and for whom he cherished a
strong affection. The central part of the
mansion, which is of wood, was erected
by Lawrence, and the wings by George
Washington. It contains many valu-
able historical relics, among which are
the key of the Bastile, presented by La-
fayette, portions of the military and per-
sonal furniture of Washington, the pitch-
er, portrait, etc.
The tomb of Washington, which is now
fast going to decay, occupies a more pic-
turesque situation than the present one,
being upon an elevation in full view of
the river. The new tomb, into which the
remains were removed in 1837, and sub-
sequently placed within a marble sarcoph-
agus, stands in a more retired situation,
a short distance from the house. It con-
sists of a plain but solid structure of
brick, with an iron gate at its entrance.
Above the arch of this vault are inscribed
the following lines:
|
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
Alexandria, Va., is situated up-
on the south bank of the Potomac, seven
miles below the capital. It was once
within the District of Columbia, but was
retroceded to Virginia in 1846, with all
the territory of that State which had be-
fore been a portion of the national ground.
Its foundation dates from 1748. General
Braddock's disastrous expedition to the
West was fitted out here. The town is
intimately connected with the life and
name of Washington. In Christ Church,
the pew in which he sat is an object of
much interest. Many mementoes of him
are carefully preserved. The Musuem,
Court House, Odd-Fellows' Hall, and Theo-
logical Seminary, are among the prominent
buildings. The town, like all others in
Virginia, suffered much during the war
from the hands of soldiery. The city was
occupied by Ellsworth's Zouave regiment
and a Michigan regiment on the morning
of the 24th May, 1861, and continued in
the possession of the Federal troops. In
the entrance to the Marshall House Colo-
nel Ellsworth was shot by Jackson, the
proprieter of the house, for tearing down
the secession flag. Jackson was in turn
shot by F. E. Brownell, one of Ellsworth's
command. Of the merchants accustomed
to do business in Alexandria, but few re-
mained through the war.
It had a popu-
lation of 12,500 in 1860, contains one
hotel (Newton's), and is connected within the possession of his descendents, was
Washington by steamboat, railway, and purchased a few years ago for the sum
turnpike. The daily steamer down the of $200,000, raised by subscription, un-
Potomac to Aquia Creek and Fortress der the auspices of a society of ladies
Monroe, calls here. It also has rail- known as the "Ladies' Mount Vernon
way communication with Leesburg, 38 Union Association." It is therefore, and
miles; also with Gordonsville, Char- will continue to be, the property of the
lottesville, and Lynchburg, by the Orange nation. In this noble movement the late
and Alexandria Railway. The Long Hon. Edward Everett took a distinguish-
Bridge, which spans the Potomac at ed and active part.
Washington, played an important part
The Mount Vernon domain, which has
remained since the death of Washington
To reach Mount Vernon from Wash-
66
Within this enclosure rest the remains of
GENERAL GEORGE WASHINGTON.”
33
VICINITY.]
[DEFENCES.
ington, take the ferry to Alexandria, and | Seventh Street, was the only one attack-
thence by road. Six miles south of Alex-ed during the war. The events of the
andria, old Fort Washington, known dur- memorable "four days'" siege of the city
ing the war of 1812 as Fort Warburton, are still fresh in the recollection of its
is passed.
citizens.
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
The important position of Washington
during the late war led to careful prep-
arations for its defence, and the modern
fortifications of the place will long remain
among its main objects of interest. They
are 56 in number, embracing a circuit of
nearly 40 miles around the city and Alex-
andria. These works are built of earth,
and are bomb-proof. Of the whole num-
ber, Fort Stevens, at the northern end of
34
1
The Army Hospitals of Washington
and vicinity numbered 23 during the
war, with accommodation for 12,000 pa-
tients. Many of these have been remov-
ed. Among those remaining, worthy a
visit, are Armory Square Hospital, east
of the Smithsonian grounds; Emory and
Lincoln Hospitals, and Judiciary Square
Hospital, in the rear of the City Hall.
VIRGINIA.]
VIRGINIA.
VIRGINIA.
|
VIRGINIA, the oldest of the original |
thirteen States of the North American
Confederacy, and, on that account, often
referred to as the "Old Dominion," is
bounded on the north by Ohio, Pennsyl-
vania, and Maryland; east, by Maryland
and the Atlantic Ocean; south, by North
Carolina and Tennessee; and west, by
Kentucky and Ohio. Jamestown, on the
James River, is the oldest permanent set-
tlement made by the English on this con-
tinent, the redoubtable Captain John
Smith and his followers having landed
and located there in 1607. In its early
career it encountered great difficulties in
the shape of famine, disease, and the hos-
tilities of the natives. Bacon's rebellion,
the most serious of these disturbances,
broke out in 1676. In 1677 Virginia
obtained a new charter, depriving her of
some of her former privileges, as a pun-
ishment for this rebellion. In 1752
Washington, then a young man, was sent
by Governor Dinwiddie as an envoy to the
French commander at Fort Du Quesne
(Pittsburg), and two years after defeated
the French at the Great Meadows, but was
obliged finally to capitulate. Virginia
took an active part in the events leading
to and in the conduct of the Revolution-
ary war, as she also did in the rebellion
of 1861-'65.
|
Among the proudest boasts of the State
is the extraordinary number of great men
which she has given to the nation. Dur-
ing half the lifetime of the Republic, its
highest office has been conferred upon her
sons. Washington, Jefferson, Madison,
Monroe, Tyler, and Harrison, all Presi-
dents, were born in Virginia. Not only
has she been the mother of Presidents,
but she has raised leaders for our armies
and navies, lawgivers for our Senates,
judges for our tribunals, apostles for our
pulpits, poets for our closets, and paint-
ers and sculptors for our highest and most
enduring delight. Scanning the map of
middle Virginia, the eye is continually ar-
rested by hallowed shrines-the birth-
places, the homes, and the graves of those
whom the world has most delighted to
honor. Here we pause within the classic
groves of Monticello, and _look_abroad
upon the scenes amidst which Jefferson
so profoundly studied and taught the
world. There, in the little village of
Hanover, the burning words of Patrick
Henry first awakened the glowing fire of
liberty in the bosoms of his countrymen;
and here, too, the great Clay was nurtured
in that lofty spirit of patriotism, from
which sprang his high and devoted public
services. Not far off we may again bend,
reverently, over the ashes of Madison and
Monroe, of Lee, and Wirt, and Marshall.
Prominent among the events of the Rev-
olution was the surrender of Cornwallis
at Yorktown, October, 1781, which vir-
tually terminated the war. Washington
died December 14, 1799. Alexandria
capitulated to the British, August 27,
1814. Nat Turner's negro insurrection
occurred in 1831. A State Constitution
was formed in 1776, which was remod-
elled in 1830, and again in 1851.
The events of the last five years have
added materially to the historical and
scenical attractions of Virginia. The
"ordinance of secession " was passed
April 17, 1861, and the accession of
Virginia (Eastern) to the Southern Con-
federacy announced by Governor Letcher
on the 25th of the same month. In
Western Virginia, on the 23d of April,
at a public meeting held at Clarksburg,
Harrison County, delegates were appoint-
ed to a convention to be held at Wheel-
ing, May 13th, to determine what course
|
[VIRGINIA.
K
}
35
VIRGINIA.]
should be pursued. This movement re-
sulted in the separation of Western from
Eastern Virginia. Great activity was
soon observed in Eastern and Southwest-trict,
ern Virginia, in the organization and
equipment of troops, and by the 5th of
June it was estimated that there were
fifty thousand Confederate troops in ac-
tive service in the State. All between the
ages of eighteen and forty-five were
quired to enlist, and not such only as a
draft would call into the field. From that
time to the capture of Richmond and the
virtual close of the rebellion, Virginia
was the principal theatre of war, and is
fairly entitled, in addition to her former
appellation of "the Old Dominion," to be
known as the Battle-Field of the Union.
For the information especially of those
desirous of visiting the battle-fields
throughout the State, we give, at the
close of the chapter, a list of the battles
and principal skirmishes, the points at
which they were fought, and the best
routes by which to reach them.
In regard to internal improvements and
the means of communication, Virginia,
though behind many of her younger and
less wealthy sister States, is yet far in ad-
vance of States lying to the south and west
of her. Her noble rivers and main lines of
railway afford easy access to almost every
section of her wide domain. According
to the census of 1860, the railroad system
of the State embraced 1,771 miles of
track, the construction and equipment of
which cost sixty-five millions of dollars.
Geographically, Virginia occupies a
central position on the seaboard of the
Union. It lies between 36° 30′ and 40°
38′ north latitude, and between 75° 10′
and 83° 30′ west longitude, and is very
irregular in its outline. It is about 425
miles in its greatest length from east to
west, and 210 in breadth, embracing an
area of about 61,352 square miles, or 39,-
265,280 acres, of which only 11,437,821
were improved in 1860.
VIRGINIA.
[VIRGINIA.
and Chesapeake Bay, is generally level.
2. West of this is a more elevated re-
gion, sometimes called the Piedmont Dis-
containing thirty-two counties. 3.
The Valley District, containing nineteen
counties, is entered by ascending the Blue
Ridge, which passes from Maryland into
Virginia, near Harper's Ferry. 4. The
Trans-Alleghany District, containing for-
re-ty-nine counties, lying west of the moun-
tains. This portion is for the most part
hilly and broken, or occupied with outly-
ing spurs.
No State in the Union presents a greater
variety of surface than Virginia, from the
mountain ranges and rugged hills of the
interior to the rich alluvions of the rivers
and the sandy flats of the seacoast. It is
usually divided into four sections. 1.
The Tidewater District, containing thirty-
seven counties, bordering on the Atlantic
With such a topography, Virginia, as
will readily be believed, abounds in grand
and picturesque scenery, and in objects
of interest to tourists.
It is especially
rich in mountain scenery, though the
mountains do not attain so great an ele-
vation as in New Hampshire and North
Carolina. White Top, in Grayson Coun-
ty, the highest land in the State, is 6,000
feet above the sea level.
feet above the sea level. Next to White
Top, the highest known summits are the
peaks of Otter, between Bedford and
Botetourt Counties, which are 4,300 feet
above the level of the sea.
The moun-
tains extend across the middle of the State
in a southwest and northeast direction,
and occupy a belt of from 80 to 100 miles
in width.
way,
Next to her mountain scenery, the
springs of the Old Dominion present
the greatest attractions to travellers.
Some of the most valuable medici-
nal waters on the continent are found
within her borders. Among the most cel-
ebrated are the Berkeley Springs, in Mor-
gan County (see Baltimore and Ohio Rail-
in our chapter on Maryland);
White Sulphur in Fauquier, White Sul-
phur and Blue Sulphur in Greenbrier,
the Alum and Hot Springs in Bath, the
Salt and Red Sulphur in Monroe, and the
White Sulphur in Grayson County. The
most celebrated of these, the White Sul-
phur Spring in Greenbrier County, is
strongly impregnated with carbonic and
nitrogen gases, with sulphates of lime and
magnesia, and carbonate of lime. The
far-famed passage of the Potomac through
the Blue Ridge at Harper's Ferry is al-
ready familiar to most travellers, as is
also the Natural Bridge in Rockbridge
County; Weyer's (Weir's) Cave, Madison's
Cave, and the Chimneys in Augusta Cour-
|
36
[VIRGINIA.
|
C. H., 62; Orange C. H., 79; Gordons-
ville, 88; Lynchburg, 170. The Ma-
nassas
nassas Gap Railway, from Manassas
(Orange and Alexandria Road), 85 miles
to Mt. Jackson, The Alexandria,
Loudon, and Hampshire Railway, from
Alexandria, through Arlington, Fall's
Church, Guildford, 38 miles to Lees-
burg. The Richmond, Fredericksburg,
and Potomac Railway, from Aquia Creek,
on the Potomac, to Fredericksburg, 15
miles; to Richmond, 75. Between Aquia
Creek and Washington City communica-
tion is by steamboat. The Scaboard and
Roanoke Railway, from Portsmouth and
Norfolk, 80 miles to Weldon, N. C.
Winchester and Potomac River Railway,
.32 miles from Winchester to Harper's
Ferry (Baltimore and Ohio Railroad).
The Baltimore and Ohio Railway, 397
miles from Baltimore to Wheeling, is
partly in Maryland and partly in Virginia.
(See Maryland for further account of this
road.) The Northwestern Railway, from
Grafton, on the line of the Baltimore and
Ohio Road, 104 miles to Parkersburg, on
the Ohio River. The Virginia Central
Railway, from Richmond westward 95
miles, to Jackson's River, through Han-
over, Louisa, Gordonsville, Charlottes-
ville, Staunton, Millboro, and other places.
Route to the Virginia Springs, Natural
Bridge, Weir's Cave, etc. The Richmond
and Danville Railway, from Richmond,
141 miles southwest to Danville, on the
North Carolina boundary. Richmond and
Petersburg Railway, from Richmond, 21
miles to Petersburg. The Petersburg and
Lynchburg (Southside) Railway, from Pe-
tersburg, 123 miles to Lynchburg. From
Petersburg it is extended 10 miles to City
Point, on James River.
Point, on James River. It intersects the
Richmond and Danville Road about mid-
way, at Burkesville. The Virginia and
Tennessee Railway, from Lynchburg, 204
miles to Bristol, thence to Knoxville, Ten-
nessee. The Roanoke Valley Railway, 22
miles from Clarksville to Ridgeway, on
the Raleigh and Gaston Railway, N. C.
Parties desirous of visiting Fairfax Court-
House, Manassas, and other points of in-
terest in the neighborhood of Washington
and Alexandria, should take the Orange
and Alexandria Railway, while those wish-
to
RAILWAYS.-The Orange and Alex-
andria Railway, from Alexandria
Lynchburg, 170 miles, via Springfield, 9
miles; Burke's, 14; Fairfax, 17; Union
Mills, 23; Manassas, 27 (junction of Ma-
nassas Gap Road); Bristoe, 31; Weavers-
ville, 38; Warrenton Junction, 41 (Branching to go direct to Richmond first, and
nine miles to Warrenton); Culpepper select their routes from that point, can
VIRGINIA.]
ty, the Buffalo Knob in Floyd County,
the Natural Tunnel in Scott County, and
the Hawk's Nest, on New River, in Fay-
ette County, are all noteworthy objects
much frequented by tourists.
The political and natural divisions
of the State have been briefly stated.
Its internal organization embraces 148
counties, 46 of which are now included
in West Virginia. Richmond is the
capital, and largest city in the State.
Petersburg, Norfolk, Wheeling, and
Alexandria, take rank next the capital
in size and importance. The white pop-
ulation of Virginia is mainly of British
origin, and until a recent period was but
slightly affected by admixture from other
sources. The native Virginians have al-
ways prided themselves on the purity of
their descent, and "one of the F. F. V.s,”
or first families of Virginia, has passed
into a proverb. The population in 1860
amounted to 1,596,318, of which number
nearly one-third were slaves. The popu-
lation has decreased during the war, and
does not now probably number more than
one million and a half white and black.
Political and social differences and distinc-
tions are fast passing away, and a healthy
immigration is setting in from the North-
ern States and from Europe.
As the Southern-bound traveller is now
about to enter a section of the Union the
means of communication throughout
which have been seriously broken and
otherwise injured by the war, the author
of the Hand-book has thought it advisable
to give only such routes as have either
not been interfered with or have been so
far restored as to invite travel. For in-
formation in regard to the condition and
facilities of roads not mentioned here,
the traveller is referred to "Appletons'
Monthly Guide," and the proprietors of the
several leading hotels represented in these
pages, whose means of obtaining the
latest intelligence in regard to local
travel are unquestionably the best.
VIRGINIA.
road.)
The popu-
37
[RICHMOND.
|
orders, it is affirmed, from General Early,
then commanding the Confederate troops
quartered in Richmond, and soon a great
portion of the business section of the
city was a mass of blackened ruins. The
upper part of Main Street, the principal
avenue of fashion and business, from the
Spottswood House down for several blocks,
was entirely demolished, and only por-
tions of it have yet been rebuilt. Up-
wards of 1,000 buildings, and property es-
timated at eight millions of dollars, were
RICHMOND,
130 miles by rail from Washington, 356 | destroyed. The Capitol, as before stated,
from New York.
stands on the brow of Shockoe Hill,
overlooking what was once the city proper,
but now the burnt district. From its size
and elevated location, it is by far the most
conspicuous object in the city. It is a
Græco-composite building, adorned with
a portico of Ionic columns. There are
windows on all sides, and doors on the two
longer sides, which are reached by high
and unsightly double flights of steps
placed sidewise, under which are other
doors leading to the basement. The view
from the portico is extensive and beauti-
ful, taking in the James River, with its
windings and numerous islands. It stands
in the centre of a public square of about
eight acres. Entering by one of the up-
per doors, an entry leads to a square hall
in the centre of the building, surmounted
by a dome which transmits light from
above. The hall is about forty feet square,
and about twenty-five above the floor. In
one of the niches in the wall is a marble
bust of Lafayette. In the centre of the
square hall above described there is a
marble statue of George Washington, on
which is the following inscription: "Fait
par Houdon, Citoyen Français, 1788."
The statue is mounted on a rectangular
pedestal, four and a half feet high, on one
of the larger sides of which is the fol-
lowing honest and affectionate inscrip-
tion:
VIRGINIA.
RICHMOND.]
|
take boat either at Washington or Alex-
andria to Aquia Creek, and thence by rail
via Fredericksburg, or continuing on to
Fortress Monroe or Norfolk reach Rich-
mond by steamboat up the James River.
The former of these routes is the quicker
and least expensive, the latter the most
pleasant and most interesting.
HOTELS.-The Ballard House. This
well-known and deservedly popular house
has been thoroughly refurnished, and has
every convenience for guests. The Ex-
change, immediately facing this, has
large private parlors, and spacious ball-
room. A well-shaded court-yard, a jet
d'eau, and observatory commanding an
extended view of the city and vicinity,
are among the attractions of this hotel.
Cuisine excellent. The Spotswood and
St. Charles are also good houses.
|
Richmond, the capital of the "Old
Dominion," as Virginia is familiarly
called, and the seat of government during
the Confederate rule in the State, is beau-
tifully situated on the left or northeast
bank of the James River, at what are
called the Lower Falls. The city was
founded by act of Assembly in May, 1742,
and became the State capital in 1779.
Richmond, as first seen on approaching
by the river, has the imposing aspect of
a large and populous capital. It owes
this in a great degree to the elevated po-
sition of its Capitol, which stands on
Shockhoe Hill, and afar off has a hand-
some and classical appearance; when,
however, you approach within criticising
distance, it loses some of that enchant-
ment which distance ever lends the view.
The situation of the city and the scenery
of the environs are much admired. It is
regularly laid out in rectangular blocks.
Always a city of considerable political and
commercial importance, it gained still
greater prominence as the capital of the
Southern Confederacy. Upon the sur-
render of the city to the Federal forces,
April 2, 1865, fire was set to the tobacco
and other warehouses of the city, under
"The General Assembly of the Com-
monwealth of Virginia have caused this
statue to be erected, as a monument of
affection and gratitude to
GEORGE WASHINGTON,
who, uniting to the endowments of the
Hero the virtues of the Patriot, and ex-
erting both in establishing the Liberties
of his Country, has rendered his name
dear to his Fellow-Citizens, and given the
38
RICHMOND.]
[RICHMOND.
World an immortal example of true Glory. | umental Church (Episcopal) stands where
Done in the year of
CHRIST
One Thousand Seven Hundred and Eigh-
ty-Eight, and in the year of the Common-
wealth the Twelfth."
VIRGINIA.
|
The simplicity, dignity, and truth of
that inscription are worthy of the great
original commemorated, and of the young
and chivalric State whose ready gratitude
so early erected this lasting monument,
and overflowed in language so beautiful
and appropriate. The statue is decently
clad in the uniform worn by an American
General during the Revolution, and not
half covered by the semi-barbarous and
pagan toga, with throat uncovered and
naked arm, as if prepared for the barber
and the bleeder, which is the case with
the statue of Washington, by Greenough,
at the National Capitol. It is of the size
of life, and stands resting on the right
foot, having the left somewhat advanced,
with the knee bent. The left hand rests
on a bundle of fasces, on which hang a
military cloak and a small sword, and
against which leans a plough. The atti-
tude is natural and easy, and the likeness
to the great original is strong. A fine
statue of Henry Clay stands near the
western corner of the square. Besides
the Capitol, the most noteworthy edifices
are the City Hall, the Penitentiary, and
the Custom House. The City Hall is an
elegant structure, at the northwest angle
of the Capitol Square. The Penitentiary,
near the river, in the western part of the
city, is a spacious edifice, with a façade
of near 300 feet long. The Custom House
is a substantial structure, fronting on
Main Street. It has been recently com-
pleted, and cost upwards of half a million
of dollars. The lower story is used for
the purposes of the City Post-Office.
Above this are the headquarters of the
military commandant of the district.
Richmond College was founded by the
Baptists, in 1832. St. Vincent's College
is under the direction of the Catholics.
The medical department of Hampden and
Sydney College, established in 1838, occu-
pies an attractive building, of Egyptian
architecture.
|
once stood the Theatre, so disastrously
burned in 1811, at the sad sacrifice of
the life of the Governor of the State,
and more than sixty others of the ill-
fated audience in the building at the time.
St. John's, on Church Hill, corner Broad
and Twenty-fourth Streets, is interesting
from its historical associations.
Holywood Cemetery is a pretty, re-
tired spot, adorned with some handsome
monuments. It is at the north end of
Main Street. The Libby Prison and Castle
Thunder are always pointed out to
strangers. The former and better known
of the two takes its name from its owner,
a Mr. Libby, who long occupied it as a
tobacco warehouse. During the war it
was used as a place of confinement for
Union prisoners. It has little, either in
its past history, present condition, or fu-
ture prospects, to invite a closer acquaint-
ance than this brief description affords.
Richmond is the great depot for the to-
bacco product of Virginia, and the ware-
houses where this famous "weed" was
stored, the number of which exceeded
forty, were before the war among the
(C
sights" of the city. The wheat grown
in the neighborhood of Richmond, and in-
deed throughout Virginia, has long been
esteemed for its excellence. The flouring
mills are numerous, and many of them ex-
tensive. The "City," "Gallego," and
"Haxall" are the largest concerns of this
kind. The city also contains a Court-
House, a Jail, an Armory, a Theatre, two
Market-Houses, an Orphan Asylum, and a
Masonic Hall. Three bridges across the
river connect the city with Manchester
and Spring Hill. The Rapids, or Falls of
James River, which extend six miles
above the city, and have a descent of 80
feet, afford valuable water power. The
navigation of the river is opened above
the city by the assistance of a canal which
overcomes the rapids. The city is sup-
plied with water from the river by means
of forcing-pumps, which furnish three res-
ervoirs, of 1,000,000 of gallons each.
The James River and Kanawha Canal,
commenced in 1834, extends westward
upwards of 200 miles. Richmond, like
Washington, though in a much greater
degree, has been the centre of absorbing
interest during the war, and no one ought
|
Among the churches of Richmond,
over thirty in number, are some of archi-
tectural skill worth observing. The Mon-
蠱
​39
I
NORFOLK.]
to leave it without visiting the line of for-
tifications which constituted the defences
of the city, and which were so long deemed
impregnable.
VIRGINIA.
[VICINITY.
| nearly one thousand men. Two days af
terwards it was destroyed by fire, together
with the frigate Merrimac, the Pennsylva-
nia and other ships-of-war. Property val-
ued at several millions was destroyed, and
the roar of the conflagration was heard for
miles. It will take years to rebuild, if in-
deed it is ever rebuilt. The U. S. Naval
Hospital, on the south bank of the Eliza-
beth River, is an imposing-looking build-
ing of brick, stuccoed. The Seaboard and
Roanoke Railway comes in at Portsmouth
from Weldon, N. C. Gosport lies just
below. The United States Dry Dock at
this suburb is a work of great extent and
interest. Communication between Ports-
mouth and Norfolk is kept up by ferry.
Fort Calhoun and Craney Island are at
the entrance to the harbor. Tri-weekly
steamers ply between Norfolk, City Point,
Newbern, Mattapony River, and Cherry-
stone. The oysters obtained in these
waters are esteemed for their size and
flavor. The "Virginia" and "Commer-
cial" club-houses, in Bank Street, Nor-
folk, are popular chop and oyster houses.
Old Point Comfort and Fortress Monroe,
14 miles north of Norfolk, are much fre-
quented by travellers, the former for its
fine bathing-ground, the latter for its
formidable military defences. They are
pleasantly situated at the entrarce to
Hampton Roads. Fortress Monroe is the
largest military work, and, strictly speak-
ing, the only fortress in the United
State. The area embraced within its
outer works is 65 acres. Within is a
parade ground 25 acres in extent, with
numerous fine shade trees. It is a bas-
tioned work, the walls built of granite,
and 35 feet high. A moat 75 to 150
feet wide, and 8 to 15 feet deep, sur-
rounds the work. The embrasures of
the water battery on the sea face of the
fort are 42 in number. The whole arma-
ment of the fortress is 371 guns, many
of which are the largest-sized colum-
biads. It has always remained in the
possession of the United States. The
village of Hampton, three miles from
Fortress Monroe, is largely occupied by
freedmen. Horse-cars run there through-
out the day. The restaurant "Hygea,'
at the "Old Point" steamboat landing, is
a well-regulated establishment.
The trip up the James affords the trav-
ROUTE I.
Norfolk, 300 miles from New York
by sea, 190 from Washington, 180 from
Baltimore, 140 from Richmond. From
Baltimore daily, by steamboat down Ches-
apeake Bay. From Richmond the route
is by steamer down James River. Sev-|
eral fine boats ply between the two cities,
and in favorable weather the trip is a
most delightful and interesting one.
HOTELS.-Atlantic and National, both
on Main Street, are well-ordered houses.
The former has reading and billiard rooms
attached.
|
Norfolk is pleasantly situated upon the
Elizabeth River, eight miles from Hamp-
ton Roads, and 32 miles from the ocean.
It was named Norfolk after one of the
counties of England, by Colonel Thoro-
good, who was one of the first settlers in
what was then known as Elizabeth City
County. It contains 20,000 inhabitants,
and is, after Richmond, the most populous
city in Virginia. A canal comes in here
through the Dismal Swamp, which opens
communication between Chesapeake Bay
and Albemarle Sound. The city was laid
out in 1705, and incorporated as a borough
in 1736. In 1776 it was burnt by the
British. In 1855 it was visited by the
yellow fever, which carried off several
hundreds of its inhabitants. The harbor
is large, safe, and easily accessible, de-
fended at its entrance by Forts Monroe
and Calhoun. It is a great market for
wild fowl, oysters, poultry, and vegetables.
The Custom House and Post-Office, on Main
Street, is a handsome edifice, recently
erected at a cost of $228,505. The City
Hall has a granite front, a cupola 110
feet high, and a handsome portico. The
Baptist Church, on Freemason Street, has
a fine steeple.
Portsmouth, directly opposite Norfolk,
is a naval depot of the United States. At
the time of the secession of Virginia
(April 18, 1861), the marines and others
employed at the Navy Yard numbered
""
40
PETERSBURG.]
|
eller some charming river scenery and
views of many places full of historic in-
terest. Thirty-two miles above its mouth
are passed the ruins of Jamestown. The
history of this spot is a romantic one,
full of the varied story of early colonial
adventure and suffering, of the gallantry
of Captain John Smith, and the devotion
of the gentle Pocahontas. The first Eng-
lish settlement in the United States was
made here in 1607. Its Revolutionary
history was eventful. Nothing now re-
mains of the town save a few ruins.
VIRGINIA.
Ascending the river, we next reach City
Point, at the mouth of the Appomattox
River, 10 miles east-northeast of Peters-
burg, with which place it has direct com-
munication by railway. City Point ac-
quired very considerable prominence in
the annals of the war as a military camp
and depot for supplies of the Army of the
Potomac. The brick building on the ex-
treme point of land overlooking the Ap-
pomattox was occupied during the closing
years of the war as General Grant's head-
quarters. The view from this point, in-
dependent of its memorable associations,
will always render it attractive. Many of
the lines of Government storehouses and
depots are still standing. The defences
of City Point are among the most note-
worthy objects of interest in the vicinity.
There are no hotels worth mentioning,
the attractions of the place not being at
all in that line.
On the left bank of the James, imme-
diately above the mouth of the Ap-
pomattox, we pass Bermuda Hundred,
and further on other points interest-
ing through their association with the
movements of the respective armies dur-
ing the war. A short distance above
Varina Landing, at a bend in the river,
the Dutch Gap Canal is passed, in sight
of the signal-tower, and shortly after the
Howlett House Batteries and Drury's
Bluff (Fort Darling). Three miles fur-
ther up, the roof and portico of the
Capitol on Shockoe Hill in Richmond
rises in view.
[WILLIAMSBURG.
terribly, and it must be many years be-
fore it regains its former position. It is
on the great route from New York to
Charleston and New Orleans. The South-
side Railway from Lynchburg, 133
miles distant, terminates here. The ro-
mantic ruins of the old church of Bland-
ford are within the limits of this borough.
The falls of the river just above the city
furnish extensive water power. A canal
round these falls affords passage for boats
100 miles above the city. It fell into the
hands of the Union forces April 3, 1865.
Marks of the fierce attacks to which it
was subjected are seen everywhere in and
around the city. A visit to the fortifica-
tions will well repay the stranger. Fort
Steadman, "the last ditch" of the rebel-
lion; the Crater, the scene of the ex-
plosion and bloody struggle in August,
1864; Fort Hell, to the left of Steadman,
where the Union and Rebel lines almost
touch, and near by Fort Damnation, are
among the places and scenes of interest
around Petersburg. Jarratt's is the lead-
ing hotel.
Petersburg, 21 miles from Rich-
mond, 10 from City Point, is pleasantly
situated on the south bank of the Appo-
mattox. It was the third city of the State
previous to the war, containing a popula-
tion of nearly 16,000, but it has suffered |
ROUTE II.
Williamsburg, 60 miles east of
Richmond, and 68 miles west of Norfolk,
the oldest incorporated town in Virginia,
and a place of extreme interest in its his-
torical associations, is built upon a plain,
between the York and James Rivers, six
miles from each. This was the seat of
the colonial Government anterior to the
Revolution, and the capital of the State
until 1779. It was first settled in 1632.
William and Mary College, founded 1692,
is the oldest educational establishment in
the United States, after Harvard Univer-
sity. Previous to the war it had a fine
library. The losses sustained by this in-
stitution during the war are estimated at
$80,000. An appeal for its relief is being
urged abroad. In the centre of the lawn,
fronting the College, is a mutilated statue
of Lord Botetourt, one of the most popu-
lar of the old colonial Governors. This
statue was placed in its present position
in 1797. Palace of Lord Dunmore. -The
remains of this ancient building, the home
of the last of the royal Governors of Vir-
ginia, is at the head of a pleasant broad
→
41
WILLIAMSBURG.]
|
"
court, extending from the main street in
front of the City Hall. It was built of
brick. The centre edifice was accident-
ally destroyed by fire while occupied by
the French soldiers, just after the surren-
der of Cornwallis at Yorktown. Here the
stately old Governor lived, or attempted
to live, in royal splendor. All that now
remains of his pomp are the two little
outbuildings or wings of his palace, yet
to be seen by the visitor at Williamsburg.
The Old Capitol stood on the site of the
present Court-House, on the square, oppo-
site the Magazine. It was destroyed by
fire in 1832. A few of the old arches lie
yet around, half buried in the greensward.
It was in the "Old Capitol " that the Bur-
gesses of Virginia were assembled when
Patrick Henry, the youngest member of
that body, presented the series of bold
resolutions which led to his famous
speech: "Cæsar had his Brutus, Charles
the First his Cromwell, and George the
Third"-concluded by those master-words
of raillery, when the excited assembly in-
terrupted him with the cry of "Treason!
treason!" may profit by their exam-
ple. If this be treason, make the most
of it!" The Apollo Room of the Raleigh
Tavern is an apartment in another time-
honored old building of Williamsburg, in
which the House of Burgesses assembled
to consider the revolutionary movements
which were then passing in Massachu-
setts. This assembly had just been dis-
solved by the Governor, in consequence
of its passage of acts in opposition to
those of the Lords and Commons of Eng-
land just before received. The Queen's
Rangers, commanded by Lieut.-Colonel
Simcoe, entered Williamsburg, driving
out the Virginia militia, on the stormy
night of April 19, 1781. The thoughtful
traveller will delight himself by recalling
other incidents in the history of the lo-
calities here presented, and in following
the course of the great train of events
which resulted from or were connected
with them. Brenton Church, a venerable
edifice of the early part of the last cen-
tury, stands on the public square, near
Palace Street or Court. It is a cruciform
building, surmounted by a steeple. Near
Brenton Church is an octagonal edifice,
built during the administration of Gov-
ernor Spottswood, known as the Old Mag-
-
[FREDERICKSBUrg.
azine. The Eastern Lunatic Asylum of
Virginia is also located at this place.
Yorktown, upon the York River,
11 miles from its entrance into Chesa-
peake Bay, 70 miles east-southeast of
Richmond, and about 12 miles from Wil-
liamsburg, is memorable as the scene of
that closing event in the American Revo-
lution, the surrender of the British army
under Lord Cornwallis, October 19, 1781.
This event is commemorated in one of
Colonel Trumbull's pictures in the rotunda
of the Capitol at Washington. The pre-
cise spot at Yorktown where the scene of
the surrender of the British arms and
standards took place will be pointed out
to the inquiring visitor. At the time of
the surrender the place contained about
sixty houses. In 1814 it was desolated
by fire. Remains of the intrenchments
cast up by the British on the south and
east sides of the town are yet to be seen.
These mounds vary from 12 to 16 feet in
height, and extend in broken lines from
the river bank to the sloping grounds
back of the village. Cornwallis' Cave is
an excavation in the bluff upon which
the village stands, reputed to have
been made and used by Lord Corn-
wallis as a council chamber during the
siege. It is exhibited with this char-
acter for a small fee. A quarter of a
mile below this cave there is another,
which there is good reason to believe
really was thus occupied by the English
commander. The region of country round
Williamsburg and Yorktown bears abun-
dant evidences of the operations conduct-
ed there during the recent rebellion.
VIRGINIA.
ROUTE III.
Fredericksburg, 60 miles north
of Richmond, and 70 miles south of
Washington, is situated on the right bank
of the Rappahannock River, at the head
of tide-water. On the route hither, 16
miles from Richmond, the traveller passes
Ashland, the scene of many a cavalry raid
during the war. During the battle of
Chancellorsville, Stoneman's cavalry made
a dash on this station, and later, Generals
Kilpatrick and Sheridan. At the junc-
tion, seven miles beyond Ashland, a fight
took place between Grant and Lee, in the
42
FREDERICKSBURG.]
VIRGINIA.
campaign from the Rappahannock to Cold
Harbor. From Hamilton's Crossing to
Fredericksburg, a distance of four miles,
the line is laid through the scene of Burn-
side's attack. That portion of Stafford
County lying between the Rappahannock
and the Potomac Rivers, the scene of
many a bivouac, march, and fight, is now
a desolate waste. Aquia Creek, the
northern terminus of the road, is mainly
known as the base of supplies for Burn-
side during the operations against Freder-
icksburg. The great fight took place De-
cember 13, 1862.
It
The Birthplace of Washington.
was in the vicinity of Fredericksburg
that Washington was born, and here
he passed his early years; and here,
too, repose the remains of his hon-
ored mother. The birthplace of the
Father of his Country is about half a
mile from the junction of Pope's Creek
with the Potomac, in Westmoreland
County. It is upon the "Wakefield es-
tate," now in the possession of John E.
Wilson, Esq. The house in which the
great patriot was born was destroyed be-
fore the Revolution. It was a plain Vir-
ginia farm-house of the better class, with
four rooms, and an enormous chimney on
the outside at each end. The spot where
The spot where
it stood is now marked by a slab of free-
stone, which was deposited by George W.
P. Custis, Esq., in the presence of other
gentlemen, in June, 1815. On the tablet
On the tablet
is this simple inscription: "HERE, THE
11TH OF FEBRUARY (0. S.), 1732, GEORGE
WASHINGTON WAS BORN."
The remains of the mother of Washing-
ton repose in the immediate vicinage of
Fredericksburg, on the spot which she
herself, years before her death, selected
for her grave, and to which she was wont
to retire for private and devotional
thought. It is marked by an unfinished,
yet imposing monument. The corner-
stone of this structure was laid by An-
drew Jackson, President of the United
States at the time, on the 7th of May,
1833, in the presence of a large concourse
of people, and with solemn ceremonials.
After the lapse of almost a quarter of a
century the monument remains still unfin-
ished. The mother of Washington re-
sided, during the latter part of her life,
in Fredericksburg, near the spot where
[LYNCHBURG.
she now lies buried. In a house recently
occupied by Mr. Richard Sterling, at the
corner of Charles and Lewis Streets, her
last but memorable interview with her il-
lustrious son took place when she was
bowed down with age and disease. The
principal hotel in the town, and indeed
almost the only one left open for travel-
lers, is the Planters' House.
ROUTE IV.
RICHMOND TO BURKESVILLE, LYNCHBURG,
LEXINGTON, and BRISTOL, by Richmond
and Danville Railway.
Burkesville (54 miles), in Prince
Edward County, is situated at the junc-
tion of the Richmond and Danville Rail-
way with the Southside Railway. The
surrender of the shattered Army of Vir-
ginia was made near here, April, 1865.
Lynchburg (120 miles) is finely
situated on the north bank of the James
River. The town was founded in 1786,
and incorporated in 1805. The James
River and Kanawha Canal, the greatest
public work in Virginia, following the
course of the river from Richmond,
passes Lynchburg on its way to Buchanan
and Covington. Distant from Richmond,
by canal, 147 miles. The connecting
roads with the South and Southwest are
the Virginia and Tennessee Railway to
Bristol, the East Tennessee and Virginia
Railway to Knoxville, and the East Ten-
nessee and Georgia Railway to Chatta-
nooga. Distance to Chattanooga, 446
miles. Lynchburg is on the route to and
in the immediate vicinity of the Spring
region. The Natural Bridge and the
Peaks of Otter are here easily accessible.
(See descriptive sketches.)
Danville (141 miles), the terminus
of the Richmond and Danville Railway, is
pleasantly situated at the head of naviga-
tion on the Dan River, five miles from the
boundary line of North Carolina. Popu-
lation 4,000. The Piedmont Railway,
running 48 miles to Greensboro', N. C.,
terminates here.
Lexington (155 miles) is charm-
ingly situated on the North River, amidst
the mountain and spring region of West-
ern Virginia, 35 miles northwest of
Lynchburg, from which point it is reach-
|
43
L
.
HANOVER COURT House.]
ed by stage. Washington College was
founded in 1798, and was endowed by
General Washington. The Virginia Mil-
itary Institute was established by the
State Legislature in 1838-39. In July,
1856, a copy in bronze of Hondon's statue
of Washington, in the Capitol at Rich-
mond, was erected here. The town was
laid out in 1778. Population about
2,000. The Natural Bridge and Peaks
of Otter are within easy stage-ride.
VIRGINIA.
ROUTE V.
VILLE,
RICHMOND TO HANOVER C. H., GORDONS-
CHARLOTTESVILLE, MONTICELLO,
STAUNTON, AND MILLBORO, by Virginia
Central Railway.
[CHARLOTTESVILLE.
at Newcastle, once a prosperous village,
but now a ruin, with a single house only
on its site.
|
Gordonsville (76 miles), in Or-
ange County, is situated at the intersec-
tion of the Orange and Alexandria Rail-
way, to Lynchburg.
Charlottesville (97 miles), fa-
mous as the seat of the University of
Virginia, and for its vicinage to Monticel-
lo, the home and tomb of Thomas Jeffer-
erson, is situated on the Rivanna River,
in the east-central part of the State, 119
miles from Washington City by the
Orange and Alexandria and the Virginia
Central Railways. The University of
Virginia, one of the most distinguished
of the colleges of the United States, is
situated about a mile west of the village
of Charlottesville. It is built on moder-
atly elevated ground, and forms a striking
feature in a beautiful landscape. On the
southwest it is shut in by mountains, be-
yond which, a few miles distant, rise the
broken, and occasionally steep and rug-
ged, but not elevated ridges, the charac-
teristic feature of which is expressed by
the name of Ragged Mountains. To the
northwest the Blue Ridge, some 20 miles
off, presents its deep-colored outline,
stretching to the northeast and looking
down upon the mountain-like hills that
here and there rise from the plain without
its western base. To the east, the eye
rests upon the low mountain range that
bounds the view as far as the vision can
extend northeastward and southwest-
ward along its slopes, except where it is
interrupted directly to the east by a hilly
but fertile plain, through which the Ri-
vanna, with its discolored stream, flows
by the base of Monticello. To the south,
the view reaches far
the view reaches far away until the hori-
zon meets the plain, embracing a region
lying between the mountains on either
hand, and covered with forests inter-
spersed with spots of cultivated land. The
University of Virginia was founded in
1819, by Thomas Jefferson, and so great
was his interest in its success, and his es-
timate of its importance, that in his epi-
taph, found among his papers, he ranks
his share in its foundation third among
the achievements and honors of his life-
the authorship of the Declaration of In-
dependence being the first, and of the
Hanover Court-House (18
miles) is memorable as the scene of
Patrick Henry's early oratorical triumphs,
and as the birthplace of Henry Clay. It
is pleasantly situated near the Pamunky
River. Three miles from the Court-
House, on the right of the turnpike road
leading to Richmond, stands, or did when
the author last visited it before the war,
the house in which Clay was born. The
building is a " one-story frame," with
dormer windows, and a large outside
chimney (after the universal fashion of
Southern country-houses) at each gable.
In this humble tenement the Senator who
"would rather be right than be Presi-
ident," was born, in 1777. The flat, piny
region, in which it is situated, is called
the Slashes of Hanover; hence the popu-
lar sobriquet familiarly applied to the
great statesman, of the "Millboy of the
Slashes." Hanover awakens pleasant
memories of Patrick Henry assembling
his volunteers and marching to Williams-
burg to demand the restoration of the
powder which Lord Dunmore had remov-|
ed from the public magazine, or payment
therefor, a daring demand, which he
however succeeded in enforcing, as the
Governor, alarmed at the strength of his
cortége, which grew as he went along to
150 in number, sent out the Receiver-
General with authority to compromise
the matter. The young leader required
and obtained the value of the powder,
330 pounds, and sent it to the treasury at
Williamsburg. This incident happened
44
F
MONTICELLO.]
[WHEELING.
Virginia Statute for Religious Freedom | lands, when travelling in this country,
the second. The University is endowed while Mr. Jefferson lived. His writings
and controlled by the State.
made him favorably known as a scholar,
and his public position made him honor-
ed by the nations. The remains of Mr.
Jefferson lie in a small family cemetery
by the side of the winding road leading
to Monticello." Over them is a granite
obelisk 8 feet high, which bears the fol-
lowing inscription:
66 HERE LIES BURIED
THOMAS JEFFERSON,
Author of the Declaration of Independence;
of the Statute of Virginia for Religions Freedom;
And Father of the University of Virginia."
VIRGINIA.
Monticello, once the beautiful home,
and now
the tomb of Jefferson, is
about four miles west of Charlottesville.
"This venerated mansion," says Mr. Los-
sing, in his "Field Book of the Revolu-
tion," "is yet standing, though somewhat
dilapidated and deprived of its former
beauty by neglect. The furniture of its
distinguished owner is nearly all gone,
except a few pictures and mirrors; other-
wise the interior of the house is the same
as when Jefferson died. It is upon an
eminence, with many aspen-trees around
it, and commands a view of the Blue
Ridge for 150 miles on one side, and on
the other one of the most beautiful and
extensive landscapes in the world. Wirt,
writing of the interior arrangements of
the house during Mr. Jefferson's lifetime,
records that, in the spacious and lofty
hall which opens to the visitor on enter-
ing, 'he marks no tawdry and unmean-
ing ornaments; but before, on the right,
on the left, all around, the eye is struck
and gratified by objects of science and
taste, so classed and arranged as to pro-
duce their finest effect. On one side
specimens of sculpture, set out in such
order as to exhibit at a coup d'œil the
historic progress of that art, from the
first rude attempts of the aborigines of
our country, up to that exquisite and
finished bust of the great patriot himself,
from the master-hand of Cerracchi. On
the other side, the visitor sees displayed
a vast collection of the specimens of the
Indian art, their paintings, weapons, or-
naments, and manufactures; on another,
an array of fossil productions of our
country, mineral and animal; the petri-
fied remains of those colossal monsters
which once trod our forests, and are no
more; and a variegated display of the
branching honors of those monarchs of
the waste that still people the wilds of
the American Continent! In a large sa-
loon were exquisite productions of the
painter's art, and from its windows open-
ed a view of the surrounding country
such as no painter could imitate. There
were, too, medallions and engravings in
great profusion.' Monticello was a point
of great attraction to the learned of all
|
Staunton (136 miles) is pleasantly
located in Augusta County, upon a small
branch of the Shenandoah River. It is a
pretty and prosperous village, with a pop-
ulation of between 2,000 and 3,000. The
Western Lunatic Asylum and the State
Institution for the Deaf, Dumb, and
Blind, are among its principal objects of
interest. It is the main point of rendez-
vous for tourists to the spring region,
hard by. Weyer's and Madison's caves
(18 miles) are reached by stage.
ROUTE VI.
Harper's Ferry (160 miles
north of Richmond). See MARYLAND, for
Baltimore and Ohio Railway.
Winchester (30 miles from Har-
per's Ferry), by Winchester and Potomac
Railway, is in the midst of a pleasant and
picturesque country in the northwestern
part of the State 20 miles west of the
Blue Ridge, and within the limits of the
great Valley of Virginia. Ice Mountain,
in Hampshire County, 26 miles north-
west from Winchester, is a natural curi-
osity. Blocks of ice are found here at
all seasons of the year. On the west
side of the North Mountain in this coun-
ty, are the famous Capon Springs, Caudy
Castle, the Tea Table, and the Hanging
Rocks, are notable curiosities in this re-
gion.
Wheeling, the capital of West
Virginia, and the terminus of the Balti-
more and Ohio Railway, is situated on the
east bank of the Ohio River, and on both
sides of Wheeling Creek, 379 miles west
of Baltimore, 95 miles below Pittsburg,
45
WELLSBURG.]
[THE SPRINGS.
|
|
and 365 miles above Cincinnati. It
has railroad communication with the
cities of Cleveland and Pittsburg, and is
also the terminus of the Hempfield Rail-
road. The site of the city is an alluvial
tract extending along the river bank a
distance of three miles of varying width,
shut in by hills. It has important man-
It has important man-
ufactories of iron, glass, and paper. The
first settlement was made in 1769. The
suspension bridge across the Ohio
River has a span of 1,010 feet.
is built of wire, and cost $210,000.
The tops of the towers are 153 feet
from low-water mark. The city contains
a handsome court-house, a custom house,
and twenty church edifices. Extensive
vineyards are in the neighborhood. Popu-
lation 22,000
It
stage and the Richmond and Danville
and Southside Railways to Lynchburg,
and thence via Lexington, Ky., afford
the easiest routes. From Baltimore and
Washington the Baltimore and Ohio Rail-
way to Harper's Ferry and Winchester and
thence by stage or the ferry to Alexan-
dria, and thenco by Orange and Alexan-
dria and Virginia Central Railways as be-
fore. The latter is the more expeditious,
though not so interesting. Approaching
from the south, travellers should diverge
from Richmond. From the west, passen-
gers should leave the Ohio River route at
Guyandotte, and thence by stage. For
minute details, consult the recent news-
paper announcements and the hotel-keep-
ers. The best time to visit these springs
and drink the waters is from 1st July to
September. A few words of advice to
those who visit them, as most do, for the
benefit of their health, contributed by
one who is qualified to give advice in
such matters, are inserted here: "When
the patient, under proper advice, has se-
lected and arrived at the Spring where
he expects relief, there are some obser-
vances so essential to his success, that in
a work professing in some degree to serve
as his guide, it would be improper to omit
calling attention to them. If he has di-
rections from his family physician, the
first question that suggests itself is, Is
he in the precise condition in which that
physician saw him? If he be not, what
change has taken place, and what new
symptoms have occurred? It will readi-
ly be understood, that if the journey has
been tedious and laborious, as in visits
from the distant States must be the case,
the invalid may have suffered from a
change of water, he may be in a state
of over-excitement, or exhaustion, from
want of sleep, fatigue, or want of accus-
tomed comforts. He may, from expos-
ure, have taken cold and be in the incipi-
ent stage of catarrhal fever. His liver
may have been deranged by the journey.
His arterial and nervous system may be
abnormally excited. He may have head-
ache, furred tongue, or he may be con-
stipated, or in other respects out of
sorts,' and so on ad nauseam.” In all
such cases, and they are of course numer-
ous, the only relief to be hoped for is by
sending the patient to the water adapted
VIRGINIA.
Wellsburg, on the Ohio River, 16
miles above Wheeling, was laid out in
1789, and named after Alexander Wells,
who built the first flouring-mills on the
Ohio. It was originally called Charles-
town. Among the early settlers was
Joseph Doddridge, author of the "Indian
Wars of Northwestern Virginia." Rich
coal mines are in the vicinity. Bethany,
eight miles distant, is the seat of a col-
lege, founded in 1841, by Rev. Alexander
Campbell.
|
Parkersburg, the second city
of Western Virginia, and the county seat
of Wood County, is pleasantly situated on
the Ohio at the mouth of the Little Ka-
nawha River. It was laid out in 1817,
incorporated in 1820, and chartered in
1860. It has had a rapid growth since
the formation of the State; the streets
are well laid out. Oil wells abound in
the vicinity. Good turnpike roads lead
to Winchester and Staunton. Popula-
tion 6,000.
THE SPRINGS.
As the springs of Virginia furnish an
important characteristic feature of the
State, and annually attract a large con-
course of visitors, I have thought it best
to devote a considerable portion of this
chapter wholly to them. First, as to the
best means of reaching them. From
Richmond, the Virginia Central via Staun-
ton, Goshen to Millboro', and thence by
46
THE SPRINGS.]
[THE SPRINGS.
|
to his disease. "Whether he employs a
physician or not, let me say to the inva-
lid: 'Be in slow haste.' Survey the
whole ground according to the sugges-
tions I have laid before you. Do not
gulp down large quantities of water to
expedite a cure. It would be about as
wise as the conduct of a man who eats to
repletion, in order to get the worth of his
money, or as that of the old negro who
swallowed down all the physic left by his
master, lest it should go to waste. Be
moderate in all things. Take the water
so as to insure its gradual diffusion
through your system, that you may ob-
tain that invisible and silent alterative ac-
tion which is eventually to eradicate your
disease. Go to work coolly, calmly, and
systematically, and you will own the ben-
efit of the advice." "Follow as near as
circumstances will permit the following
course of treatment: If the weather and
other circumstances admit, rise about 6,
throw your cloak on your shoulders, visit
the Spring, take a small-sized tumbler of
water, move about in a brisk walk; drink
again at 6, continuing moderate exer-
cise-again at 7; breakfast about 8, but
let it be moderate and of suitable quality.
In most cases, a nice tender mutton-chop,
or a fresh soft-boiled egg, or venison, or
beef-steak is admissible. Eat stale bread,
or corn mush, or hominy-the latter a
delightful article to be found at some of
the Springs-a cup of black tea, not
strong, or a glass of unskimmed milk. If
you value your health less than the grati-
fication of your palate and stomach, you
can indulge in buckwheat cakes, floating
in butter, omelets of stale eggs, strong
coffee, half-baked pastry, rich patés, hot
bread, and such like, and take the conse-
quences. After breakfast, walk, ride, or
drive till near noon. Eat no luncheon at
noon, but take a glass of water, and
walk in the shade. Drink again at
12—again at 1. Dine about 2. Eat for
Eat for
nourishment, and not for luxury. Avoid
bad potatoes, cabbage, beets, turnips,
onions, salt meat of every description,
pastry, fruits, either cooked or in their
natural state. Though innocent else-
where, they are not usually so at mineral
waters. Amuse yourself in social inter-
course or gentle exercise until 6, take a
glass of water-walk or ride until sup-hunting-ground of the Shawnees, a tradi-
per-take a cup of black tea or a glass
of milk and a cracker." Avoid as much
as possible all excitements and late hours.
The White Sulphur Springs. Not
knowing which of the several routes our
traveller may desire to follow, we shall,
instead of journeying in any prescribed
line from Spring to Spring, jump at once
to that central and most famous point,
the White Sulphur. This favorite Spa
is on Howard's Creek, in Greenbrier
County, directly on the edge of the Great
Western Valley, and near the base of the
Alleghany range of mountains, which rise
at all points in picturesque and winning
beauty. Kate's Mountain, which recalls
some heroic exploits of an Indian maiden
of long ago, is one fine point in the scene,
southward; while the Greenbrier Hills
lie two miles away, toward the west,
and the lofty Alleghany towers up ma-
jestically on the north and east. The
Hot Spring is 38 miles distant, on the
north; the Sweet Spring, 17 miles to the
eastward; the Salt and the Red Springs,
24 and 41 miles, respectively, on the
south; and the Blue Spring, 22 miles
away, on the west. The vicinage of the
White Sulphur is as grateful in natural
attraction as the waters are admirable in
medicinal value. Its locale is a charming
valley, environed, like that of Rasselas,
by soaring hills, and the summer home in
its midst has all the conveniences and
luxuries of a veritable Castle of Indo-
lence. Fifty acres, perhaps, are occupied
with lawns and walks, and the cabins
and cottages of the guests, built in rows
around the public apartments, the dining-
room, the ball-room, etc., give the place
quite a merry, happy village air. There
is Alabama Row, Louisiana, Paradise,
Baltimore, and Virginia Rows, Georgia,
Wolf, and Bachelor's Rows, Broadway,
the Colonnade, Virginia Lawn, the
Spring, and other specialties. The cot-
tages are built of wood, brick, and of
logs, one story high; and, altogether, the
social arrangement and spirit here, as at
all the surrounding Springs, has a pleas-
ant, quiet, home sentiment, very much
more desirable than the metropolitan
temper of more accessible and more
thronged resorts. It is said that the site
of these Springs was once the favorite
|
VIRGINIA.
M
47
THE SPRINGS.]
tion supported by the remains found in
various parts of the valley, in the shape
of implements of the chase and ancient
graves. It is not known precisely at
what period the Spring was discovered.
Though the Indians undoubtedly knew
its virtues, there is no record of its being
used by the whites until 1778. Log-
cabins were first erected on the spot in
1784-'86, and the place began to assume
something of its present aspect about
1820. Since then it has been yearly im-
proved, until it is capable of pleasantly
housing some 1,500 guests. The spring
bubbles up from the earth in the lowest
part of the valley, and is covered by a
pavilion, formed of twelve Ionic columns,
supporting a dome, crowned by a statue
of Hygeia. The Spring is at an elevation
of 2,000 feet above tide-water. Its tem-
perature is 62° Fahrenheit, and is uniform
through all seasons. Its average yield is
about thirty gallons per minute, and the
supply is neither diminished in dry weath-
er, nor increased by the longest rains.
The Salt Sulphur Springs, three in num-
ber, are about twenty-four miles from the
White Sulphur, near Union, the capital
of Monroe County. Like the White Sul-
phur, they are beautifully nestled in the
lap of mountain ranges. The Springs
are near the eastern base of Swope's
Mountain. On the north, the Alleghany
rises, while Peter's Mountain extends on
the south and east. The Salt Sulphur
was discovered in 1805, by Mr. Irwin
Benson, while boring for salt water,
which he was led to hope for by the fact
that the spot had formerly been a favor-
ite "lick" for deer and buffalo. The
hotels and cottages at the Salt Sulphur
have accommodation for four hundred
guests.
VIRGINIA.
The Blue Sulphur Spring, in Green-
brier County, is another sweet valley
nook, 22 miles west of the White Sul-
phur, 32 north by east from the Red
Sulphur, and 13 from Lewisburg. It is
upon the turnpike road to Guyandotte,
on the Ohio. Its geographical position
is within the magic hill-circle of the
great group of the Westerne Springs, en-
joying all the healthful climates of that
most salubrious of regions. A fine hotel
180 feet in length, built of brick, with
piazzas extending its entire length, affords
[THE SPRINGS.
good accommodation during the season.
The Red Sulphur Springs, in the south-
ern portion of Monroe County, are 42
miles below the White Sulphur, 17 from
the Salt, 32 from the Blue, and 39 from
the Sweet. The approach to these Springs
is beautifully romantic and picturesque.
Wending his way around a high moun-
tain, the weary traveller is for a moment
charmed out of his fatigue by the sudden
view of his resting-place, some hundreds
of feet immediately beneath him. Con-
tinuing the circuitous descent, he at
length reaches a ravine, which conducts
him, after a few rugged steps, to the en-
trance of a verdant glen, surrounded on
all sides by lofty mountains. The south
end of this enchanting vale, which is the
widest portion of it, is about two hundred
feet in width. Its course is nearly north
for about one hundred and fifty yards,
when it begins gradually to contract, and
changes its direction to the northwest
and west, until it terminates in a narrow
point. This beautifully secluded Tempe
is the chosen site of the village. The
northwest portion is occupied by stables,
carriage-houses, and shops of various
sorts; the southern portion, just at the
base of the east and west mountains, is
that upon which stand the various edi-
fices for the accommodation of visitors.
These buildings are spacious and con-
veniently arranged, while the prome-
nades, which are neatly enclosed by a
white railing, are beautifully embellished,
and shaded from the mid-day sun by
large, umbrageous sugar-maples. The
Spring is situated at the southwest point
of the valley, and the water is collected
into two white marble fountains, over
which is thrown a substantial cover.
These Springs have been known and dis-
tinguished as a watering-place for nearly
sixty years. The improvements at the
place are extensive and well-designed,
combining elegance with comfort, and
are sufficient for the accommodation of
350 persons. The water of the spring is
clear and cool, its temperature being 54°
Fahrenheit. The Sweet Springs are in
the eastern part of Monroe County, 17
miles southeast of the White Sulphur
and 22 from the Salt Sulphur. They
have been known longer than any other
mineral waters in Virginia, having been
48
THE SPRINGS.]
So long
analyzed
discovered as early as 1764.
ago as 1774 these waters were
by Bishop Madison, then the President
of William and Mary College. They lie
in a lovely valley, five miles in length,
and between a mile and half a mile broad.
The Alleghany Mountain bounds them on
the north, and the Sweet Spring Mountain |
rises on the south. The hotel here is of
noble extent, 250 feet long, with a dining-
hall of 160 feet. The Red Sweet Springs
are a mile only from the Sweet Springs
just mentioned, on the way to the White
Sulphur. This water is chalybeate, and a
powerful agent in cases requiring a tonic
treatment. The landscape here is most
agreeable. A mile and a half from the
Sweet Springs are the Beaver-dam
The Fauquier White Sulphur, in Fau-
quier County, are 40 miles from Fred-
ericksburg and 132 miles from Rich-
mond. They are quickly reached by rail
from either point.
|
Jordan's White Sulphur. These Springs
are in Frederick County, five miles from
Winchester, and one mile and a half
from Stephenson Depot, on the Winches-
ter and Potomac Railway. Distance
from Harper's Ferry 28 miles.
Falls.
The Capon Springs are 23 miles south-
west of Winchester, at the base of the
North Mountain. Take the Baltimore
and Ohio Railway, from Baltimore to
Harper's Ferry, 82 miles; thence the
Potomac and Winchester, 32 miles, to
Winchester; thence by stage; or take
the Orange and Alexandria road from
Alexandria, 27 miles, to Manassas Station
and the Manassas Gap Railway, 61 miles
more, to Strasburg.
The Shannondale Springs are in Jef-
ferson County, five miles and a half from
Charleston, a point on the railway from
Harper's Ferry to Winchester. Distance
to Charleston from Harper's Ferry, 10
miles; from Baltimore, 92 miles. The
Berkeley Springs, Morgan County, are
two miles and a half from Sir John's
Run, a point on the Baltimore and Ohio
Railway 130 miles west of Baltimore.
This is a very ancient and distinguished
resort, esteemed and frequented by Wash-
ington before the Revolution. Commo-
dious hotels.
THERMAL WATERS.
VIRGINIA.
[THE SPRINGS.
|
The Rockbridge Alum Springs are in
Rockbridge County, on the main road
from Lexington to the Warm Springs, 17
miles from the first and 22 from the sec-
ond point. The valley in which they are
found lies below the North Mountain on
the east and the Mill Mountain on the
west.
|
The Warm Springs are in Bath Coun-
ty, about 170 miles, nearly west, on the
great Spring route from Staunton.
They are situated in a delightful valley,
between lofty hill ranges. Fine views
are opened all about on the Warm Spring
Mountain. From the "
Gap," where
the road crosses, and from "the Rock,
2,700 feet above tide-water, the display is
deservedly famous.
"}
The Bath Alum Springs are at the
eastern base of the Warm Spring Moun-
tain, five miles east of the Warm Springs,
47 miles east of the White Sulphur, and
45 west of Staunton. The valley of the
Bath Alum is a cosy glen of 1,000
acres, shut in, upon the east, by Mc-
Clung's Ridge; on the southeast by
Shayer's Mountain; on the west by the
Piney Ridge; and on the southwest by
Little Piney.
Hot Springs.-Five miles removed
from the Warm Springs, at the intersec-
tion of two narrow valleys, are the Hot
Springs. The scenery here, though very
agreeable, as is that of all the region
round, is not especially striking. Heal-
ing Springs, Bath County.-These ther-
mal waters lie in a pleasant valley of
eight or ten miles' extent, between the
Warm Spring Mountain on the east and
the Valley Mountain on the west. In the
neighborhood is a fine cascade.
3
Dibrell's Spring is on the main road
from Lynchburg to the White Sulphur,
19 miles west, by a direct road from the
Natural Bridge. It is in the extreme
northwestern part of Botetourt County,
30 miles east of the Alleghanies, and at
the base of Gordon Mountain.
The Alleghany Springs are in Mont-
gomery County, on the south fork of the
Roanoke River, 10 miles east of Chris-
tiansburg, on the Virginia and Tennessee
Railway. From Richmond to Christians-
49
THE NATURAL Bridge.]
burg, 210 miles west; from Lynchburg,
86 miles.
New London Alum is in the County of
Campbell, 10 miles southwest of Lynch-
burg.
VIRGINIA.
Grayson's Sulphur are west of the
Blue Ridge, in Carroll County, 20 miles
south of Wytheville, on the New River
-a region of remarkable natural beauty.
Pulaski Alum Spring, in Pulaski Coun-
ty, on Little Water Creek, 10 miles from
Newbern, and seven miles, in a direct
line, from the Virginia and Tennessee
Railway.
The Huguenot Springs is a watering-
place in Powhatan County, 17 miles
from Richmond. Take the Richmond
and Danville Railway to the Springs sta-
tion, about 10 miles, thence by good
omnibuses or stages. A pleasant excur-
sion from Richmond. There are many
other mineral fountains in Virginia, dis-
covered and undiscovered. We have
mentioned only those of much resort.
[THE NATURAL BRIDGE.
tion of the beholder is one of double
astonishment: first, at the absolute sub-
limity of the scene; next, at the total in-
adequacy of the descriptions he has read,
and the pictures he has seen, to produce
in his mind the faintest idea of the re-
ality. The great height gives the arch
an air of grace and lightness that must
be seen to be felt, and the power of
speech is for a moment lost in contem-
plating the immense dimensions of the
surrounding objects. The middle of the
arch is forty-five feet in perpendicular
thickness, which increases to sixty at its
juncture with the vast abutments. Its
top, which is covered with soil supporting
shrubs of various sizes, is two hundred
and ten feet high. It is sixty feet wide,
and its span is almost ninety feet.
Across the top passes a public road, and
being in the same plane with the neigh-
boring country, you may cross it in a
coach without being aware of the inter-
esting pass. There are several forest
trees of large dimensions growing near
the edge of the creek directly under the
arch, which do not nearly reach its low-
est part. The most imposing view is
from about sixty yards below the bridge,
close to the edge of the creek; from that
position the arch appears thinner, lighter,
and loftier. From the edge of the creek,
at some distance above the bridge, you
look at the thicker side of the arch,
which from this point of view approaches
somewhat to the Gothic. A little above
the bridge, on the western side of the
creek, the wall of rock is broken into
buttress-like masses, which rise almost
perpendicularly to a height of nearly two
hundred and fifty feet, terminating in
separate pinnacles which overlook the
bridge. When you are exactly under the
arch, and cast your glance upward, the
space appears immense; and the symme-
try of the ellipsoidal concave formed by the
arch and the gigantic walls from which it
springs, is wonderfully pleasing. From
this position the views in both directions
are sublime and striking from the im-
mense height of the rocky walls, stretch-
ing away in various curves, covered in
some places by the drapery of the forest,
green and graceful, and in others without
a bramble or a bush, bare and blue.
The Peaks of Otter.-These famous
The Natural Bridge is in Rockbridge
County, in Western Virginia, 63 miles
from the White Sulphur Springs. From
Washington, the traveller hither may
take the Orange and Alexandria Railway
to Gordonsville, on the Virginia Central
and the Central to Millboro', and thence
by stage. From Richmond or other points
by railway to Lynchburg, and thence by
canal packet thirty-five miles to the bridge.
From Lexington the distance is 14 miles,
six of which are over a heavy road. It
is situated at the bottom of the deep
chasm in which flows the little stream
called Cedar Creek, and across the top of
which, from brink to brink, there still ex-
tends an enormous rocky stratum, that
time and gravity have moulded into a
graceful arch.
The bed of Cedar Creek
is more than two hundred feet below the
surface of the plain, and the sides of the
enormous chasm, at the bottom of which
the water flows, are composed of solid
rock, maintaining a position almost per-
pendicular. These adamantine walls do
not seem to be water-worn, but suggest
the idea of an enormous cavern, that in
remote ages may have been covered for
miles by the continuation of that stratum
of which all that now remains is the arch
of the Natural Bridge. The first sensa-
50
THE PEAKS OF OTTER.]
[THE PEAKS OF OTTER,
(6
mountain heights are in the same region as
the Natural Bridge. They lie in the county
of Bedford, 10 miles from the village of
Liberty, and 35 miles from Lynchburg.
The summits of the Peaks of Otter are
about two miles apart. The northern
mountain rises 4,200 feet above the plain
and 5,307 above the sea. It is the south-
ern or conical peak which is most of
ten ascended. "After riding about a
quarter of a mile," says a visitor to these
peaks, we came to the point beyond
which horses cannot be taken, and dis-
mounting from our steeds, commenced
ascending on foot; the way was very
steep, and the day so warm that we had
to halt often to take breath. As we ap-
proached the summit, the trees were all
of a dwarfish growth, and twisted and
gnarled by the storms of that high re-
gion. There were also a few blackberry
bushes, bearing their fruit long after the
season had passed below. A few minutes
longer brought us to where the trees
ceased to grow; but a huge mass of
rocks, piled wildly on top of each other,
finished the termination of the peak.
Our path lay for some distance around
the base of it, and under the overhang-
ing battlements, and rather descending
for a while, until it led to a part of the
pile which could with some effort be
scaled. There was no ladder, nor any ar-
tificial steps, and the only means of as-
cent was by climbing over the successive
rocks. We soon stood upon the wild
platform of one of Nature's most magnifi-
cent observatories, isolated and appar-
ently above all things else terrestrial, and
looking down upon and over a beautiful,
variegated, and at the same time grand,
wild, wonderful, and almost boundless
panorama. Indeed, it was literally
boundless, for there was a considerable
haze resting upon some parts of the
'world below,' so that, in the distant ho-
rizon, the earth and sky seemed insensi-
bly to mingle with each other. I had
been there before. I remember, when a
boy of little more than ten years old, to
have been taken to that spot, and how
my unpractised nerves forsook me at the
sublimity of the scene. On this day it
was as new as ever; as wild, wonderful,
and sublime as if I had never before
looked from those isolated rocks, or stood
on that awful summit. On one side, tow-
ard Eastern Virginia, lay a compara-
tively level country in the distance, bear-
ing strong resemblance to the ocean; on
the other hand were ranges of high
mountains, interspersed with cultivated
spots, and then terminating in piles of
mountains, following in successive
ranges, until they were lost also in the
haze. Above and below, the Blue Ridge
and Alleghanies ran off in long lines;
sometimes relieved by knolls and peaks,
and in one place above us making a grace-
ful curve, and then again running off in a
different line of direction. North of us,
and on the other side of the Valley of
Virginia, were the mountains near Lex-
ington, just as seen from that beautiful
village the Jump, North, and House
Mountains succeeding each other. They
were familiar with a thousand associa-
tions of our childhood, seeming mysteri-
ously, when away from the spot, to bring
my early home before me-not in imagi-
nation such as had often haunted me
when I first left to find another in the
world, but in substantial reality. Fur-
ther on down the valley, and at a great
distance, was the top of a large moun-
tain, which was thought to be the Great
North Mountain, away down in Shenan-
doah County. I am afraid to say how
far off. Intermediate between these
mountains, and extending opposite and
far above us, was the Valley of Virginia,
with its numerous and highly cultivated
farms. Across this valley, and in the
distance, lay the remote ranges of the
Alleghany, and mountains about, and, I
suppose beyond, the White Sulphur
Springs. Nearer us, and separating East-
ern and Western Virginia, was the Blue
Ridge, more than ever showing the pro-
priety of its cognomen of the 'back bone,'
and on which we could distinctly see
two zigzag turnpikes, the one leading to
Fincastle, and the other to Buchanan,
and over which latter we had travelled a
few days before. With the spy-glass we
could distinguish the houses in the village
of Fincastle, some twenty-five or thirty
miles off, and the road leading to the
town. Turning toward the direction of
our morning's ride, we had beneath us
Bedford County, with its smaller moun-
tains, farms, and farm-houses, the beauti-
|
VIRGINIA.
1
51
MADISON'S CAVE.]
ful village of Liberty, the county roads,
and occasionally a mill-pond, reflecting
the sun like a sheet of polished silver.
The houses on the hill at Lynchburg,
twenty-five or thirty miles distant, are
distinctly visible on a clear day, and also
Willis' Mountain, away down in Bucking-
ham County. The tourist may take a
carriage from Liberty or at Buchanan, to
the Peaks. A fine, well-graded turnpike
leads thence, and a good hotel is at the
base of the mountain." Weyer's Cave.
This wonderful place, scarcely inferior in
its mysterious grandeur to the celebrated
Mammoth Cave of Kentucky, is in the
northeastern corner of Augusta County,
77 miles from Staunton (on the Central
Railway), 16 miles from Waynesboro',
and 32 from Charlottesville. This cave
was named after Bernard Weyer, who dis-
covered it in 1804, while in chase of a
wild animal who fled thither for escape.
Many of the countless apartments in this
grand subterranean castle are of exquisite
beauty-others, again, are magnificent in
their grand extent. Washington Hall,
the largest chamber, is upwards of 250
feet in length. Following its various
avenues, the visitor may traverse this
cave upwards of half a mile. To see
it in all its beauty, lights should be
used.
VIRGINIA.
[BLOWING CAVE.
they do not rise and fall in correspond-
ence with that in times of flood, or of
drought, and because the water is always
cool. It is probably one of the many
reservoirs with which the interior parts
of the earth are supposed to abound.
The vault of this cave is of solid lime-
stone, from 20 to 40 or 50 feet high,
through which water is continually perco-
lating. This, trickling down the sides of
the cave, has incrusted them over in the
form of elegant drapery; and dripping
from the top of the vault generates on
that, and on the base below, stalactites
of a conical form, some of which have
met and formed massive columns." The
Blowing Cave is on the stage road be-
tween the Rockbridge and the Bath
Alum Springs, one mile west of the vil-
lage of Millboro'. When the internal
and external atmosphere is the same,
there is no perceptible current issuing
from it. In intense hot weather, the
air comes out with so much force as
to prostrate the weeds at the entrance.
In intense cold weather, the air draws in.
There is a Flowing and Ebbing Spring on
the same stream with the Blowing Cave.
The Hawk's Nest, sometimes called Mar-
shall's Pillar, is on New River, in Fayette
County, a few rods only from the road lead-
ing from Guyandotte, on the Ohio, to the
White Sulphur Springs-96 miles from
Guyandotte, and 64 miles from the
Springs. It is an immense pillar of
rock, with a vertical height of 1,000 feet
above the bed of the river. "You leave
the road by a little by-path, and after
pursuing it for a short distance, the
whole scene suddenly breaks upon you.
But how shall we describe it?
great charm of the whole is connected
with the point of sight, which is the
finest imaginable. You come suddenly
to a spot which is called the Hawk's Nest.
It projects on the scene, and is so small
as to give standing only to some half
dozen persons. It has on its head an
old picturesque pine; and it breaks away
at your feet abruptly and in perpendicu-
lar lines, to a depth of more than 1,000
feet. Standing on this ledge, which, by its
elevated and detached character, affects
you with dizziness, the forest rises
above and around you. Beneath and be-
fore you is spread a lovely valley. A
The
""
Madison's Cave, within a few hundred
yards of Weyer's, is thus described by Mr.
Jefferson, in his "Notes on Virginia:
"It is on the north side of the Blue
Ridge, near the intersection of the Rock-
ingham and Augusta line with the south
fork of the southern river Shenandoah.
It is in a hill of about 200 feet perpen-
dicular height, the ascent of which on
one side is so steep, that you may pitch
a biscuit from its summit into the river
which washes its base. The entrance of
the cave is in this side, about two-thirds
of the way up. It extends into the earth
about 300 feet, branching into subordi-
nate caverns, sometimes ascending a lit-
tle, but more generally descending, and
at length terminates in two different
places at basins of water of unknown ex-
tent, and which I should judge to be
nearly on a level with the water of the
river; however, I do not think they are
formed by refluent water from that, be-
cause they are never turbid; because
CRY
52
THE ICE MOUNTAIN.]
peaceful river glides down it, reflecting, |
like a mirror, all the lights of heaven,
washes the foot of the rocks on which
you are standing, and then winds away
into another valley at your right. The
trees of the wood, in all their variety,
stand out on the verdant bottoms, with
their heads in the sun, and casting their
shadows at your feet, but so diminished
as to look more like the pictures of the
things than the things themselves. The
green hills rise on either hand and all
around, and give completeness and
beauty to the scene. Beyond these
appears the gray outline of the more dis-
tant mountains, bestowing grandeur to
what was supremely beautiful. It is ex-
quisite. It conveys to you the idea of per-
fect solitude." The Ice Mountain is a re-
markable natural curiosity, in the county
of Hampshire. It is upon the North River
(eastern bank), 26 miles northwest of
Winchester (see Baltimore and Ohio Rail-
way). The Salt Pond is a charming lake,
on the summit of Salt Pond Mountain, one
of the highest peaks of the Alleghanies.
It is in Giles County, 10 miles east of
Parisburg and five miles from the Hy-
VIRGINIA.
[THE HANGING ROCKS.
geian Springs. It abounds in fresh trout
and other fish. Caudy's Castle was so
named from having been the retreat of an
early settler, when pursued by the Indians.
It is the fragment of a mountain, in the
shape of a half cone, with a very narrow
base, which rises from the banks of the Ca-
pon to the height of about 500 feet, and
presents a sublime and majestic appear-
ance. Caudy's Castle, as also the Tea-Ta-
ble, and the Hanging Rocks, mentioned be-
low, may all be visited from the Capon
Springs. The Tea-Table is about 10 miles
from Caudy's Castle, in a deep, rugged glen
three or four miles east of the Capon. It
is about four feet in height, and the same
in diameter. From the top issues a clear
stream of water, which flows over the
brim on all sides, and forms a fountain
of exquisite beauty. The Hanging Rocks
are about four miles north of Romney.
There the Wappatomka River has cut its
way through the mountain of about 500
feet in height. The boldness of the rocks
and the wildness of the scene surprise
the beholder. Tradition makes it the scene
of a bloody battle between the Delaware
and Catawba Indians.
|
53
|
I
1
I
1
NORTH CAROLINA.]
NORTH CAROLINA.
NORTH CAROLINA.
IMMEDIATELY south of Virginia, and
easily accessible either by land or water,
lies NORTH CAROLINA, also one of the
original Thirteen States of the American
Confederacy. It lies between 33° 53'
and 36° 33′ N. latitude, and between 75°
25' and 84° 30′ W. longitude, and in-
cludes an area of 50,704 square miles, or
32,450,560 acres. It is bounded on the
east and southeast by the Atlantic; on
the south by South Carolina and Geor-
gia; and northwest by Tennessee, from
which it is separated by the Appalachian
Mountains.
The history of the region does not pre-
sent many very brilliant points, although
attempts to colonize it were made at a
very early day-as long ago as 1585-'89,
by Sir Walter Raleigh-and though
the people were engaged like their neigh-
bors, in bloody struggles with the Indian
tribes. The first permanent settlement
was made in 1653. Yet the State did
memorable service in the Revolution,
and especially in being the first publicly
and solemnly to renounce allegiance to
the British crown, which she did in the
famous Mecklenburg Declaration of Inde-❘
pendence, May 20, 1775-more than a
year before the similar formal assertion
of the other States. On the 20th of May,
1861, the 86th anniversary of the Meck-
lenburg Declaration of Independence, the
Ordinance of Secession was passed. Mili-
tary operations were immediately com-
menced; Federal forts, mint, and arsenal
seized, and by June 15th a force of 20,-
000 volunteers had been raised for the
service of the Confederacy. During the
memorable campaigns toward the close
of the rebellion, this State was the scene
of many a bloody battle. The naval
bombardment and final capture of Fort
Fisher, followed as it was by the occupa-
[NORTH CAROLINA.
tion of Wilmington, Petersburg, and
Richmond, formed one of the most bril-
liant as well as decisive events of the
whole war.
In picturesque attraction the State is
popularly considered to be wholly desti-
tute an impression which results from
an erroneous estimate of her topography,
which travellers in the course of years
have made, from the uninteresting forest
travel in the eastern portion, traversed by
the great railway thoroughfares from the
Northern to the Southern States; the
only highway until within very late years,
and to this day the only one very much
in use. The eastern part of North Caro-
lina, stretching sixty miles inland, is
a vast plain, sandy, and overrun with
interminable forests of pine. Yet this
wilderness is not without points and im-
pressions of interest to the tourist, more
particularly when it is broken, as it often
is, by great stretches of dank marsh,
sometimes opening into mystical-looking
lakes, as on the Little Dismal Swamp,
lying between Pamlico and Albemarle
Sounds, and on the Great Dismal Swamp,
which the State shares with Virginia. The
staple productions of the "piney woods
country," as it is called, are tar, pitch,
and turpentine. The coast, too, of North
Carolina, is one of the most celebrated on
the western borders of the Atlantic-the
one most watched and feared by mariners
and all voyagers, that upon which the
dreaded Capes Hatteras, Lookout, and
Fear are found. While the innumerable
bays, shoals, and islands are thus cautious-
ly avoided by the passing mariner, they are
as eagerly sought by the fisherman and
the sportsman. Immense quantities of
shad, and herring, and other fish, are
taken here, and the estuaries of the rivers
and the bays are among the favorite re-
54
NORTH CAROLINA.]
sorts of wild fowl of every species, mak-
ing this coast scarcely less attractive to
the sportsman than is the Chesapeake
Bay and the shores of Long Island.
NORTH CAROLINA.
The level region extends about 60
miles from the coast, and is succeeded by
the hilly country in the centre, which in
turn gives place to the mountainous re-
gion of the west. This section, when it
comes to be better known, as the railways
now approaching it from all sides promise
that it soon will be, will place the State
in public estimation among the most
strikingly picturesque portions of the
Union. The two great ridges of the Al-
leghanies traverse this region, some of
their peaks rising to the noblest heights,
and one of them (Mount Mitchell) reach-
ing a greater altitude than any summit
east of the Rocky Mountains.
brooks innumerable and of the richest
beauty, water-falls, and lovely valleys,
are found in this yet almost unknown
land.
Wild
[RALEIGH.
|
the State, to the Atlantic. A few small
streams empty into the Tennessee. The
Roanoke and the Chowan extend from
Virginia to Albemarle Sound. The Cape
Fear River traverses the State and enters
the sea near the southern extremity of
the State. Travellers by the old steam-
boat route from Wilmington to Charles-
ton will remember the passage of this
river from the former place, 20 miles to
its mouth at Smithville. The Neuse
and the famous Tar River come from
the north to Pamlico Sound. The Yad-
kin and the Catawba enter South Caroli-
na, and are there called, one the Great
Pedee, and the other the Wateree. These
and the other rivers of this State are so
greatly obstructed at their mouths by
sand-banks, and above by rapids and
falls, that their waters are not navigable
for any great distance, or by any other
than small craft.
than small craft. Vessels drawing ten or
twelve feet of water ascend the Cape Fear
River as far as Wilmington, and light-
draught steamboats go to Fayetteville.
Steamboats sail up the Neuse 120 miles
to
Waynesboro, up the Tar 100 miles to
Tarborough, up the Roanoke 120 miles to
Halifax, and up the Chowan 75 miles.
The State is divided into 86 counties, and
contained in 1860 a population of nearly
one million. Raleigh, near the Neuse
River, is the capital of the State; and
Wilmington, 20 miles from the mouth of
the Cape Fear River, is its chief commer-
cial city.
|
Mineral products of great variety and
value are found in North Carolina, as in
the neighboring mountain districts of
South Carolina and Georgia. Until the
discovery of the auriferous lands of Cali-
fornia, this was the most abundant gold
tract in the United States. The mines
here of this monarch of metals have been
profitably worked for many years. At
the branch mint in Charlotte, in the min-
ing region, gold was coined, between and
including the years 1838 and 1853, to
the value of no less than $3,790,033; the
highest annual product being $396,734,
in the year 1852. "The copper lands of
the State," says Professor Jackson, "are
unparalleled in richness. Coal, too, both
bituminous and anthracite, is found here
in great abundance and of the finest
quality. Iron ore also exists throughout
the mountain districts. Limestone and
freestone may be had in inexhaustible
supply. Marl is abundant in all the
counties on the coast, and silver, lead,
manganese, salt, and gypsum, have been
discovered.'
The rivers of North Carolina have no
very marked picturesque character, ex-
cept the mountain streams in the west,
which are almost inaccessible. The greater
number of the rivers run from 200 to 400
miles, in a southeast direction, through
Raleigh, HOTEL, Yarborough, 286
miles from Washington, is reached from
Richmond, Va., via Weldon, and thence
by the Raleigh and Gaston Railway, 97
miles. It is the capital of the State, and
is beautifully situated four miles west
of the Neuse River, a little northeast
of the centre of the State. The seat of
Government was located here in 1788,
and named after Sir Walter Raleigh.
Union Square is an open area of ten
acres, occupying a centre, on the sides
of which are the principal streets. The
State House, which is on this square,
is one of the most imposing capitols of
the United States. It is built of gran-
ite, after the model of the Parthenon,
with massive columns and a grand dome,
and cost half a million dollars, equal at
the present time to nearly twice that sum.
55
[CHARLOTTE.
chief commercial city of North Carolina,
is in the southeastern extremity of the
State, upon the Cape Fear River, 20 miles
from the sea, 135 miles southeast of
Raleigh, and 162 from Weldon. It was
originally called Newton, and was named
Wilmington after the English nobleman of
that name, to whose patronage Governor
Johnston was indebted for his office. It
offers, however, no very great attractions
to the traveller in quest of the pictur-
Weldon, HOTEL, Gouch's, is situ-
ated on the Roanoke River, at the head
of steamboat navigation, 95 miles north-esque, though it played a part in the
drama of the Revolution. Major Craig
took possession of the town in January,
1781, and occupied it until the surrender
of Cornwallis. It fell into the possession
of the combined military and naval Union
forces, February 22, 1865. It has been
twice visited by fire, first in 1819, and
last upon the evacuation of the rebel
troops in 1865. It has several fine pub-
lic buildings, a theatre, three newspapers,
but no good hotel. Population 10,000.
Steamships ply weekly to New York;
daily communication by rail with Rich-
mond and Charleston, S. C. Forts Fish-
er and Caswell, and the village of Smith-
ville, at the mouth of the Cape Fear
River, will interest the visitor. The first-
named work withstood the most terrific
bombardment of the war through two
attacks, but was finally captured with the
aid of the land forces under General
Terry, Feburary 15th, 1865, after a most
gallant defence.
Fayetteville is at the head of
navigation on Cape Fear River, 60 miles
south of Raleigh, and 100 miles above
Wilmington. Reached at present on
plank roads from Raleigh, and from the
Wilmington and Weldon Railway. Pre-
vious to the war it was a thriving city of
8,000 inhabitants. Here General Sher-
man halted his army from the 12th to
the 15th of March, 1865, previous to cross-
ing the river to Goldsboro'. The arsenal
and other important buildings were de
stroyed.
WILMINGTON.]
A
The former State House was destroyed
by fire in 1831, and with it the celebrated
statue of Washington by Canova.
destructive fire on the 7th of January,
1831, laid a great partion of the city
in ashes. The State Lunatic Asylum,
and the Institution for the Deaf and
Dumb, are both located here. Popula-
tion 5,000.
NORTH CAROLINA.
east of Raleigh. It is an important rail-
read centre, and a place of considerable
trade.
Goldsboro', in Wayne County, is
situated near the Neuse River, at the
point where it is crossed by the Wilming-
ton and Weldon Railway, 50 miles south-
east of Raleigh. The Neuse is navigable
to this point three-fourths of the year.
The city has immediate railroad connec-
tion with roads north and south. It was
occupied by the Federal forces in March,
1865. It has had a very rapid growth.
The first house was erected in 1841, the
present population exceeds 3,500. The
Granger House has good accommodation
for travellers.
Newbern, a pleasant old town of
about 5,000 inhabitants, is at the conflu-
ence of the Neuse and the Trent Rivers,
midway on the Atlantic line of the State,
50 miles above Pamlico Sound. It is on
the line of the Atlantic and North Caro-
lina Railway, which extends from Golds-
boro' to Morehead City, opposite Beau-
fort. Distance from Goldsboro', 59
miles; from Morehead City, 36 miles.
This place was attacked and captured
during the late war by the forces under
General Burnside, March 14, 1861, after
a sharp engagement of four hours.
Beaufort is at the mouth of New-
port River, 168 miles east-southeast of
Raleigh, and 11 miles northwest of Cape
Lookout. The harbor, the best in the
State, was much frequented by the
several naval expeditions fitted out
against Fort Fisher, Wilmington, and
other points on the coast. Fort Macon,
at the entrance to the harbor, is worthy a
visit. The beach in the vicinity affords
fine bathing.
Wilmington, the largest and the
}
Charlotte.-IIOTEL, Mansion House.
This is a thriving town on Sugar Creek,
158 miles west-southwest of Raleigh.
Distant from Charleston, 237 miles; from
Columbia, S. C., 109 miles. A plank road
runs 120 miles to Fayetteville, on Cape
Fear River. The town lies in the midst of
56
The
THE MOUNTAIN REGION.]
the gold region of the State, and is the seat |
of a United States branch mint. Some
interesting historical memories are awak-
ened at Charlotte. It was here that the
patriots of Mecklenburg County assem-
bled in convention, in 1775, and boldly
passed a series of resolutions, declaring
themselves independent of the British
Crown, thus anticipating by a year the
immortal Declaration of "76. The British
troops occupied the town in 1780, and for
a little while it was the headquarters of
the American forces. Here General
Greene took command of the Southern
army from General Gates, fifty days after
the departure of Cornwallis. Battle of
Guilford Court House.—The scene of this
interesting event in the history of the
American Revolution is in the County of
Guilford, in the northwestern part of the
State.
NORTH CAROLINA.
[THE MOUNTAIN REGION.
bold peak, almost isolated in the midst of
a comparatively level region. In the
olden time it was the landmark of the
Indians in their forest wanderings; hence
its present name. The Hawk's Bill, in
Burke County, is a stupendous projecting
cliff, looking down 1,500 feet upon the
waters of a rushing river. The Table
Rock, a few miles below the Hawk's
Bill, rises cone-shaped, 2,500 feet above
the valley of the Catawba River. The
Ginger Cake Rock, also in Burke County,
is a singular pile, upon the summit of the
Ginger Cake Mountain. It is a natural
stone structure, in the form of an invert-
ed pyramid, 29 feet in height. It is
crowned with a slab, 32 feet long and
two feet thick, which projects half its
length beyond the edge of the pyramid
upon which it is so strangely poised.
Though seeming just ready to fall, noth-
ing could be more secure. A fine view
down the dark ravine below is command-
ed at this point. The French Broad
River, in its wild mountain course of 40
miles or more, from Asheville to the
Tennessee line, abounds in admirable
scenes. It is a rapid stream, and in all
its course lies deep down in mountain
gorges-now foaming over its rocky path-
way, and now sleeping, sullen and dark,
at the base of huge precipitous cliffs. A
fine highway follows its banks, and often
trespasses upon its waters, as it is crowd-
by the overhanging cliffs. Near the
Tennessee boundary, and close by the
Warm Springs, this road lies in the
shadow of the bold mountain precipices
THE MOUNTAIN REGION.
To reach the mountain region of North
Carolina from the north, follow the great
southern route from Washington, via the
Orange and Alexandria, Virginia and Ten-
nessee, and the East Tennessee and Vir-
ginia Railway, via Lynchburg to Bristol.
From Charleston, S. C., take the South
Carolina Railway to Spartanburg, and
thence by stage to Asheville; or railway
lines through from Charleston, via Colum-
bia, S. C., and Charlotte, N. C., to Salis-ed
bury, on the North Carolina Central route,
and thence to Catawba, Morganton, and
Asheville. The Swannonoa Gap is a
magnificent mountain pass, between Ashe-known as the Painted Rocks and the
ville and Morganton. The Falls of the Chimneys. The Painted Rocks have a
Catawba are hard by. The Hickory Nut perpendicular elevation of between 200
Gap is another grand cleft in the giant and 300 feet. Their name is derived
hills, rich in wonderful pictures of preci- from the Indian pictures yet to be seen
pices and cascades. Black Mountain, 20
upon them. The Chimneys are lofty
miles northeast of Asheville, is a semi- cliffs, broken at their summits into detach-
circular mass of land, about 20 miles in ed piles of rock, bearing much the like-
length, deriving its name from the dark- ness of colossal chimneys, a fancy great-
green foliage of the balsam fir-trees ly improved by the fire-place looking re-
which line its top and sides. Clingman's cesses at their base, and which serve as
and Mitchell's Peaks, the former 6,941, turnouts in the narrow causeway. The
and the latter 6,732 feet high, are the picture embracing the angle in the river,
most elevated points east of the Rocky beyond the Chimney Rocks, is especially
Mountain ranges. The scene from either fine. The Indian name of the French
summit is one of surpassing grandeur. Broad is Tselica. Under this title Mr. W.
Pilot Mountain, in Burke County, is a Gilmore Simms has woven into beautiful
57
THE MOUNTAIN REGION.]
verse a charming legend of the river. |
"The tradition of the Cherokees," he
says, "asserts the existence of a siren in
the French Broad, who implores the
hunter to the stream, and strangles him
in her embrace, or so infects him with
some mortal disease, that he invariably
58
|
NORTH CAROLINA.
[THE MOUNTAIN Region.
perishes." The Warm Springs, across
the river from the vicinage of the Painted
Rocks, is a very pleasant and popular
summer resort. The excellent hotel here
occupies a fine plateau, very grateful to
the sight, in its contrast with the rugged
character of the wild landscape around.
SOUTH CAROLINA.]
SOUTH CAROLINA.
SOUTH CAROLINA.
|
SOUTH CAROLINA is one of the most in-
teresting States in the Union, in its legen-
dary and historical story, in its social
characteristics, and in its physical aspect.
Upon its settlement by the English, in
1670, John Locke, the famous philoso-
pher, framed a constitution for the young
colony, after the pattern of that of Plato's
Model Republic. The first settlement
was at Port Royal. Later (1690), the na-
tive poetic humor of the people received
a new stimulus from the influx of French
Huguenots, driven from their own land
by the revocation of the Edict of Nantes.
South Carolina remained a proprietary
government until 1719, when it became a
royal colony. The chivalric spirit of the
people was fostered by the wars which
they shared with the Georgians, under
Oglethorpe, against the Spaniards in Flor-
ida, and by the gallant struggles in which
they were perpetually involved with the
Yemassee and other Indian tribes. Next
came the long and painful trial of the
Revolution, in which these resolute peo-
ple were among the first and most ardent
to take up arms in the cause of right
the most persistent and self-sacrificing in
the prosecution of the contest, under every
rebuff, and the last to leave the bloody
and devastating fight. The colony took
an active part in exciting and carrying on
the revolt of the colonies, and furnished
upwards of 6,000 troops to the Federal
forces. Among the conspicuous fights
which took place within the limits of the
State, were those at Fort Moultrie,
Charleston, Camden, King's Mountain,
Eutaw Springs, and Cowpens. The State
was occupied by the British during the
greater part of 1780-'81.
South Carolina has gone further than
any other State in asserting the rights
and powers of the sovereign States in op-
[SOUTH CAROLINA.
position to the Federal Government, and
was the first to rise in rebellion after the
election of Mr. Lincoln to the Presidency,
in 1860. The Ordinance of Secession was
passed December 20, 1860, and
February 18, 1865, the city of Charleston
was occupied by the United States sol-
diers, and the national flag again floated
over the city and Fort Sumter.
on
The natural aspect of the Palmetto State
is exceedingly varied.
is exceedingly varied. On the seaboard
and the south broad savannas, and deep,
dank lagunes, covered with teeming fields
of rice, and fruitful in a thousand changes
of tropical vegetation; in the middle dis-
tricts great undulating meadows, over-
spread with the luxuriant maize, or white
with snowy carpetings of cotton; and,
again, to the northward, bold mountain
ranges, valleys, and waterfalls. The poet
has thus recorded its attractions:
"The sunny land, the sunny land, where Nature
has displayed
Her fairest works, with lavish hand, in hill, in
vale, and glade;
Her streams flow on in melody, through fair and
And, from the mountains to the sea, with beauty
fruitful plains;
plenty reigns."
Among the rivers of South Carolina,
the Savannah, Great Pedee, the Santee
and its affluents, the Congaree and Wat-
eree, Saluda and Broad Rivers, Edisto
and Combahee, together affording an in-
land navigation of 2,400 miles, are the
most important.
Formerly the most popular resorts for
tourists through the State, were Table
Mountain and Table Rock, Cæsar's Head,
and Glenn's Spring. Owing to the inter-
ruption to travel, caused by the war, and
the lack of accommodation, the number
of visitors to these points has greatly
diminished. South Carolina is divided into
59
SOUTH CAROLINA.]
[CHARLESTON.
30 Districts, and contained a white pop- | Anderson Branch (Greenville and Colum-
ulation, in 1860, of 291,300.
bia Road) deflects at Belton, 10 miles to
Anderson. From this point, and from
Spartanburg, other roads are in progress
to connect with the railway routes of
North Carolina and Tennessee. The
Charleston and Savannah Railway, which
was the main highway of travel between
these cities previous to the war, has not
yet been repaired. Communication is
made by steamer daily.
SOUTH CAROLINA.
RAILWAYS.-The South Carolina Rail-
way traverses the lower portion of the
State, 137 miles from Charleston to Au-
gusta, Georgia. This road was partially
destroyed by General Sherman's forces,
and has not yet been reopened to travel.
The Columbia Branch extends 66 miles
from Branchville, midway on the South
Carolina Railway to Columbia, the capi-
tal of the State. The Northeastern Rail-
way from Charleston, 102 miles to Flor-
ence, where it connects with the Cheraw
and Darlington Railway, 40 miles to
Cheraw. The Charlotte and South Caro-
lina Railway extends northward, through
the mountain region, 105 miles, from Co-
lumbia to Charlotte, N. C. The principal
places passed are Winchester and Chester.
At Chester a railroad diverges for York-
ville. The Wilmington and Manchester ex-
tends 172 miles from Kingsville, Columbia
Branch of South Carolina road. Stations:
Kingsville to Wateree Junction, 9 miles
(Camden Branch road diverges here);
Manchester, 15; Sumterville, 25; Mays-
ville, 34; Lynchburg, 43; Timmonsville,
52; Florence, 64 (Northeastern road for
Charleston, and the Cheraw and Darling-
ton, for Cheraw, diverge here); Mar's
Bluffs, 70; Pedee, 76; Marion, 85;
Mullen's, 72; Nichol's, 99; Pine Bluff,
108; Grist's, 118; Whitesville, 127;
Flemington, 137;
137; Maxwell's, 144;
Brinkley's, 154; Wilmington, 171. The
Camden Branch extends 37 miles
from Kingsville-Stations: Kingsville
to Clarkson's, 4 miles Manchester
Junction, 9; Middleton, 11; Claremont,
18; Hopkins, 28; Camden, 37 miles.
The Greenville and Columbia Railway ex-
tends northwest, via Newberry C. H., 143
miles from Columbia to Greenville, with
branches and connecting lines to Spartan-
burg, Laurensville, Abbeville, and Ander-
son. The Spartanburg and Union Rail-
|
Route from New York, Etc.
From New York daily, by railway, to
Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington
City, Fredericksburg, and Richmond, Va.,
Weldon and Wilmington, N. C.; thence
by Wilmington and Manchester Railway
to Kingsville, on the Columbia Branch of
the South Carolina Road; or more di-
rectly by the newer route-via North-
eastern Railway, which deflects from the
Wilmington and Manchester road at
Florence. The pleasantest mode of trav-
el, however, from New York to Charleston
or Savannah, is at present by Arthur
Leary's fine line of steamships, which
make the voyage in some 60 hours
twice a week, leaving New York
every Wednesday and Saturday. Office,
73 William Street. The Peoples' Line
also despatch a steamship (Pier No. 37,
North River) every Thursday at 3 o'clock
P. M.: Livingston, Fox & Co., 141 Broad-
way, Agents. The cabin passage on both
lines the same. From New Orleans to
Charleston.-Steamers daily to Mobile
and to Montgomery, Alabama; thence
by railway to Atlanta
Atlanta; thence, by
Georgia Road, to Augusta; thence, by
South Carolina Road, to Charleston.
From Savannah to Charleston.-Steamers
daily, 6 P. M.
CHARLESTON,
nah.
580 miles from Baltimore, 540 from
way deflects at Alston, from the Greenville | Washington City, and 118 from Savan-
and Columbia Railway, 55 miles north-
west of Columbia. The Laurens road
extends 32 miles from Newberry C. H.
(Greenville and Columbia Railway) to
Laurensville. The Abbeville Branch
(Greenville and Columbia Road) deflects
at Cokesbury, 19 miles to Abbeville. The
HOTELS.-The hotels of Charleston are
among the most conspicuous edifices of
the city, and are generally well kept.
The best known and best ordered are the
Mills House and the Charleston Hotel, on
60

Grove
M
WASHINGTON
RACE COURSE
Moultrie
Huger
Congress
Cemetery
Bennetts Mills
PUBLIC CEMETERY
West Ro
REFERENCES.
1 Old Theatre
2 Ursuline Convent
3 St Andrew's Hall
4 Hebrew Orphan Ho.
5 Court House
6 Main Guard House
7 S. Carolina So. Hall
8 City Hall
9 Charleston Liby So.
10 State Bank
Gadsden
Pinckney
President
King St Road
Line
E
Boigard
MILL POND
Shepherd
B
Bee
Thomas
AN
SOUTH CAROLINA
U.States
Arsenal
NNONS
0
R
Cannon
Lucas
L
Elliot
BOROUGH
Doughty
18 Union B
19 Lib. Prot Epis. Ch
20 CatholicOrp Ho.
21 Poor House
22 Med. College of S. C.
23 Marine Hospital
24 Jail
Pinckney
Hutson
Boundary
25 Apprentices Lib. So.
26 New Theatre
27 Charleston Hotel
Coming!
James
Ch
MILL PON
Gadsd
Meeting Road
R
SPhilip
RAIL
Tho
Chisholms Will
Bull
Morris
H
Spring
ROAD
Lynch
King
Fire Wells
Line
Rutland
Square
Columbus Public
Marion
Fire Comp
Ch
Nassa
Smith
Bethel
WE
Montague
P
Epis
33
V
Rei
Wofolee
Blake
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Coming
R
Radcliffe
Warren
RADCLIFFES Hudson
anderhorst
uncan
BOROUGH
Bull
S
Drake
Bay
Ann
College
Hannover
Tradd
E
Reid
R
Wentworth
MALL
WRAGGS B.
Amherst
John
America
24
Fas
Green
30
23
W
Orphan's
Cha
31
Boundary
Counc
King
Glere
South
25
Meeting
32
Beaufain
West
Magazine
22
Savage
4
Liberty
Short
Broad
Judith
111
Burns Lane
George
1
M
Shirras
Dispensary
New
hill
Green
28
HebSynagogue
Cathet
Peters Ch
20
Logan
Elizabeth
MA ZY
Charlottel
Finbars
Tniversalist
S&Ste
hens Ch
hdale
R
St Mary's Ch.
Market
3rt Prest
Baptist
Ch
Friend
Chapel
Gibbes
Payors
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Dougher
CHARLESTON.
S
BOROUGH
Orange
Wall
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der
Ac
Queen
Society
29
261
Washington
Mech Pro
Ch
Laurens
127
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East
Middle
6
Presbyte
Franch
Morelands
Beet
King
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Ger
Hasell
Trinity Ch.
Pinckney
Guignard
MARKE
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SPhillips Ch
Bap
Prices Altist Ch
Smiths L.
Bay
SMichaels
17
Concord
Marsh
Meeting
Inspection
Vernon
SD
South Battery
11 Bank of S. Carolina
12 Rail Road Bank
13 Bank of Charleston
14 Insurance & Trust Co.
15 S. Carolina Bk
16 Exchange
17 Planters & MechBk
28 Masonic Hall
29 High School
30 Charleston College
31 Piquet Guard Ho.
32 Citadel
33 Rail Road Depot
34 2nd Presbyterian Ch.
Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1849 by W.Williams in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Eastern District of Pennsylvania
19 Chalmers 18
10 11 13
20
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Church
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White Point
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Longitude
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CHARLESTON.]
Meeting Street. The Pavilion, just
opened, is also a good house. These are
particularly good specimens of Charles-
ton architecture. Charges, $4.00 per
day.
[CHARLESTON.
|
Charleston, the metropolis of South
Carolina, seven miles from the ocean,
is picturesquely situated at the con-
fluence of the Ashley and Cooper Riv-
ers, which combine to form its harbor.
This harbor is spacious, and sufficiently
deep to admit vessels drawing 17 feet.
The coup d'œil is imposing and high-
ly picturesque. Though the grounds
are low, hardly more than 12 feet above
high water, the effect is fine; and the
city, like Venice, seems, at a little dis-
tance, to be absolutely rising out of the
sea. The bay is almost completely land-
locked, making the harborage and road-
stead as secure as they are ample. The
adjuncts contribute to form a tout ensem-
ble of much beauty. Directly at the en-
trance of the city stands Castle Pinckney,
a fortress which covers an ancient shoal.
A little south of Pinckney is Fort Rip-
ley, a small square work, built of Pal-
metto logs, and filled with paving stones,
built in 1862. On the sea-line rises
Fort Moultrie, famous, as Fort Sulli-
van, in beating off, and nearly destroy-
ing, the British fleet, under Sir Peter
Parker, in 1776. On the eastern ex-
tremity of the same island (Sullivan's),
on which Fort Moultrie stands, may
yet be traced the outline of the fortress
which, under Colonel Thompson, with 700
Carolina rifles, defeated Sir Henry Clinton
at the very moment when Moultrie drove
Parker away from the South. Within
the harbor the most conspicuous object,
and the one also of commanding interest,
are the ruined walls of Sumter. This fort,
with that of Moultrie, once constituted
the chief defences of Charleston. The
events and operations of which these
massive ruins have formed the chief cen-
tre and culminating point, are too fresh in
the public recollection to require more
than a brief retrospect in these pages.
The fort, which is an octagonal work of
solid masonry, stands in the middle of
the harbor. The armament consisted, at
the time of the attack, of 140 guns. It
was occupied by Major Anderson on the
night of Dec. 26, 1860, and at noon of
the 27th the Union flag was hoisted over
it. On the 11th January following, Gov-
ernor Pickens demanded a surrender of
the fort, which being refused, prepara-
tions were commenced to attack it. Fire
was opened under direction of General G.
T. Beauregard at 4.30 o'clock a. M., April
11th, 1861, from the batteries on James
Island. After a defence of thirty-two
hours the garrison surrendered, and
were transported to New York in the
steamer Baltic. The present condition
of the work sufficiently attests the
warmth of the second attack, August,
1863. On James Island are seen the ruins
of old Fort Johnson. On the opposite
headlands of the Haddrill you may trace
the old lines which helped in the defence
of the city eighty years ago, but which
are now mostly covered by the smart vil-
lage of Mount Pleasant. These points,
north, east, and south, with the city lying
west of them, bound the harbor, leaving
an ample circuit of bay-coursing over
which, from south to north, the eye pur-
sues the long stretch of Cooper River, the
Etiwando of the red men, along the
banks of which, for many miles, the sight
is refreshed by noble rice-fields, and in
many places by the mansions and home-
steads of the former planters. Steamers
ply up this river, and return the same
day, affording a good bird's-eye view of
the settlements, along a very picturesque
shore line on either hand.
It was up
this river that Mr. Webster distinguished
himself by shooting an alligator, or rather
shooting at him-the alligator diving at
the shot, and leaving the matter suffi-
ciently doubtful to enable an old lawyer
and politician to make a plausible case of
it. Standing on James Island, or on the
battlements of Fort Sumter, the eye
notes the broad stream of the Ashley,
winding from west of the city, round its
southernmost point, to mingle with the
waters of the Cooper. The Ashley was
anciently a region of great wealth and mag-
nificence. It is still a river of imposing as-
pect-broad, capacious, with grassy, well-
wooded banks, beyond which you may
still behold some antique and noble edi-
fices. Within the harbor,
Within the harbor, if you can ap-
propriate a couple of days, you may find
them agreeably employed, especially in
the summer months, by a trip to Fort
SOUTH CAROLINA.
61
CHARLESTON.]
|
Sumter, to James Island, to Mount Pleas-
ant, and Sullivan's Island. The two lat-
ter places are favorite and healthy re-
treats for the citizens of Charleston in
midsummer. The "Mount Pleasant
Hotel," once an ample, cool, and well-
kept house, with the usual adjuncts of
bowling and billiard-saloons, has not yet
quite recovered from the effects of its oc-
cupancy as a military hospital. The for-
ests in the immediate neighborhood afford
find drives and picturesque rambles.
The boat_passes in twenty minutes
from Mount Pleasant to Sullivan's Island.
The Moultrie House, before the war
one of the finest watering-places in
the Southern country, is now, like
Sumter, a mass of ruins. The beach
in the vicinity affords fine bathing and a
pleasant drive for nearly three miles,
to the eastern end
end of the island,
where the sea, angrily struggling
with shoals to press into the estuaries
behind Sullivan and Long Islands, keeps
up a perpetual and not unpleasant roar.
Other objects of interest, and points for
recreation and healthful enjoyment, pre-
sent themselves in the tour of the harbor,
which no one visiting this now memorable
city ought to omit seeing. Charleston
was originally founded about 1670. It
was subsequently laid out on a plan fur-
nished from England, which was then
considered of a very magnificent scale; but
the streets were narrow, though regularly
laid out, and no provision was made for
public squares. In this respect the city
is still very deficient. But the general
style of building, which gives to each pri-
vate dwelling a large court of its own,
with trees and verandahs, renders the
want of public squares less sensibly felt.
Originally built of wood, and ravaged by
frequent fires, Charleston has become in
a large degree a city of brick. Its pub-
lic buildings are some of them antique as
well as noble edifices. St. Michael's
Church, on the southeast corner of Broad|fices.
and Meeting Streets, built in 1752-'56, the
State House (now employed for the courts
of Justice), and the Old Custom House, are
all solid and imposing structures, raised
during the colonial period. St. Michael's
Tower is held in great admiration among
the Charlestonians. It is from designs
by a pupil of Sir Christopher Wren. The
SOUTH CAROLINA.
[CHARLESTON.
Custom House has a traditional character,
having been used by the British in the
Revolution as the prison-house of the pa-
triots. It was in this building that
Hayne, the martyr, was kept in bonds;
and thence he was led out to execution.
The New Custom House, of marble and
granite, is an imposing edifice, not yet
quite complete. The several churches of
St. Philip (Episcopal), St. Finsbar (Cath-
olic), Citadel Square (Baptist), Central
(Presbyterian), are all fine edifices. St.
Finsbar was destroyed during the great
fire. The ruins are among the most
striking objects of the city. Among oth-
er objects of interest is the Orphan Asy-
lum, corner Calhoun and St. Philip Sts.,
a magnificent structure of great capacity.
It generally contains from 150 to 250
orphans, the numbers of both sexes being
nearly equal. It has a fine museum and
library. A statue of William Pitt, some-
what defaced by recent acts of violence,
stands in front of this edifice.
The City Hall, Court House, and Police
Court, facing each other at the intersec-
tion of Broad and Meeting Streets, are
among the most prominent of the strictly
municipal buildings left in that part of
the city. The Military Academy (citadel)
is a State institution. One-half of its
members are beneficiary. The plan of
education is borrowed, in part, from the
system at West Point, and in part from
the Polytechnique in Paris. Its graduates
are among the most distinguished and
successful, perhaps, of all our colleges.
To examine these two institutions, will
afford the stranger pleasant employment
for a day.
The Charleston College, founded in
1788. The present structure, fronting on
George and Greene Streets, was erected in
1826. The wings were added in 1850.
The Public Schools, on St. Philip Street,
in the immediate neighborhood of the
college building, are also imposing edi-
The Jail and Workhouse, on Maga-
zine Street, lately occupied as United
States barracks for colored troops, are
large, castellated structures; as are also
the depots of the South Carolina, and
Savannah and Charleston Railroads. The
old Custom House, on Bay Street, foot of
Broad, is interesting, as having been
built during the British occupation of the
62
CHARLESTON.]
[CHARLESTON.
|
|
|
city. The environs of the city afford a | Charleston into the country, was pro-
variety of very pleasant drives. The nounced by Archdale, one of the Lords
Battery, which is the Charleston Prado, Proprietors, such an avenue as no prince
or Plaza, is a place of great resort, and of Europe could boast. This was due to
on pleasant afternoons is thronged with the noble oaks and magnolias, the myr-
carriages and pedestrians. This is the tles and the jessamines, which lined it on
fashionable quarter of the city, and many either hand, making it a covered way,
of the private residences are models of embowered in shade, grateful in green,
elegance and neatness. The mansion of venerable with moss, and giving out a
Mr. Holmes is admired especially. The perpetual fragrance from a world of sum-
houses are mostly constructed of brick or mer flowers. This fine avenue has been
wood, neatly painted, and embowered dismantled of much of its beauty during
during the summer season amid a profu- the war. Few of the fine trees are left
sion of foliage and flowers. The gardens standing.
are adorned with every variety of flowers
and shrubbery. There is no more de-
lightful drive or promenade in the South
than the Battery. But if you would see
Charleston's greatest attraction, drive to
Magnolia Cemetery, the beautiful "City of
the Silent." This is indeed a lovely re-
treat; a scene of tangled woods and
silvery waters, looking out upon the
broad surface of the Cooper River, whose
waters find their way into its pretty lake-
lets, over which the majestic live-oaks
hang their Druid mosses. This cemetery |
was laid out A. D. 1850. Among the
monuments contained in it most visited,
are those to the memory of William
Washington, a Colonel of Cavalry in
the Army of the Revolution," which
stands in the centre of the ground; an
elaborately carved shaft, to Hugh Swin-
ton Legaré, formerly United States At-
torney-General, moved from Mount Au-
burn Cemetery, near Boston; and an-
other, near by, to Elbert R. Jones, are
also much admired. On the further edge
of the ground, overlooking the harbor,
stands the vault of the Vanderhorst
family, within which, enveloped in the
Union flag, repose the remains of Com-
modore Vanderhorst. Bethany Cemetery
may be reached from Magnolia, by a
short detour from the main road. Thence,
if time will permit, extend your drive
across the Ashley River, here a mile in
width, and find yourself at once in the
country, among cotton plantations and
lovely farmsteads. If you have time,
continue your drive a few miles further,
to the "Old Parish Church of St. An-
drew," one of the most antique churches
built by the early settlers, under the
Anglican régime. The great avenue from
(6
|
|
SOUTH CAROLINA.
Entering the city at the north end of
King or Meeting Street, a good opportu-
nity is afforded of visiting the Citadel,
Orphan Asylum, and other institutions and
buildings already mentioned. Charleston
is especially rich in her public charities
-the South Carolina, Fellowship, Hiber-
nian, Hebrew, German, and other Socie-
ties, all of which have large endowments
and fine buildings. She has a Literary
and Philosophical Society, and a Medical
College in prosperous condition. The Col-
lege Library contains some 10,000 vol-
umes: the Charleston Library, some
30,000; the Apprentices', 12,000. The
College Museum is second to none in the
United States. We have indicated Fort
Moultrie as a spot distinguished by one
of the greatest battles of the Revolution;
but the chronicles of Charleston show,
besides, a long series of gallant struggles
with powerful enemies. She has been
threatened by the red men, who, in for-
midable alliance, brought down their
numerous tribes to her very gates. She
has been assailed by fleets of the Spaniards
and the French. Her colonial existence
was one long struggle with the Spaniards
and the savages. In the Revolutionary
contest she took a first and most distin-
guished part against the Crown; was
thrice assailed by the British, and only
succumbed finally to their arms, after a
leaguer of two months, and when half
the city was in ruins, and the people were
suffering from famine.
She has con-
tributed some of the most able and patri-
otic men to the Republic, in arts, arms,
statesmanship, science, and literature.
She is the birthplace of Christopher
Gadsden, William Moultrie, Charles Cotes-
worth and Thomas Pinckney, Henry Mid-
63
COLUMBIA.]
dleton, Arthur Middleton, Thomas Lynch,
John and Edward Rutledge, William
Lowndes, Joel R. Poinsett, Stephen
Elliott, Hugh S. Legaré, Holbrook R. Y.
Haynes, and scores besides, who have left
honorable memorials, national as well as
sectional, of which she may be justly
proud, and to which the Confederacy
itself is happy to do honor. The descend-
ants of these great men still survive, and
serve to give character to society, and to
add to the attractions of the city. Let
the traveller, if he can, give a week to
Charleston, and he will find its scenery,
its society, its characteristics, quite suf-
ficient to gratify his curiosity and
thoughts during that period; but if he
can appropriate two days only, we have
shown him how these may be profitably
spent. The city is regularly laid out, and
extends about two miles in length, and
nearly the same in breadth. The streets,
which run parallel to each other from
river to river, are generally broad, and
lined with beautiful shade-trees. But,
wherever the visitor may go, whichever
way he may turn, he notes the devastat-
ing hand of war. The charred and black-
ened ruins of many of the proud city's
most noted buildings confront the trav-
eller at every step. Scarce a tower or
steeple in the city that is not riddled
with shot or shell, and falling walls and
toppling roofs everywhere warn the pe-
destrian from . attempting to gratify a
natural appetite for exploration. Despite
the terrible blow which the city has re-
ceived, nothing can stay the generous
impulses nor lessen the hospitality of its
citizens; and there are few places, not
withstanding its altered circumstances,
which the educated and unprejudiced |
traveller will feel greater regret at leav-
ing, than the City of the Sea.
SOUTH CAROLINA.
In walking through South Bay Street,
near the office of the Courier, the visitor
will observe a fine palmetto-tree, the
only one observed during a week's stay
in Charleston. Near the Charleston Hotel
are the offices of the "Daily News" and
the "South Carolinian;" the former
conducted by Mr. George R. Cathcart,
the latter by the well-known novelist and
historical writer, W. Gilmore Simms.
Columbia, HOTEL, Nickerson's.
Columbia, the capital of South Carolina,
[CAMDEN.
is 130 miles from Charleston, by the South
Carolina Railway and the Columbia
Branch. It is connected by railway with
the great route from New York to New
Orleans, with Augusta, Georgia, and with
Camden, Cheraw, and most of the in-
terior and mountain villages of the State.
It is a beautiful city, situated on the
bluffs of the Congaree, a few miles below
the charming falls of that river, near the
confluence of the Saluda and Broad Riv-
ers, famous for its delightfully shaded
streets, its wonderful flower gardens, and
the model plantations in its vicinity.
Nothing can be more inviting than the
walks and drives in the neighborhood. The
Capitol, 170 feet long and 60 wide, built of
marble, is one of the handsomest buildings
in the United States. It cost nearly three
millions of dollars, and was fortunately
spared during the burning of the city on
its occupation by General Sherman's
forces. The fire was set by the soldiers
of General Wade Hampton's command.
The South Carolina College, founded in
1804, is a prosperous institution, with from
150 to 200 students. It had a library of
17,000 volumes previous to the war.
The
Insane Asylum is an object of great inter-
est. Here also is the theological college
of the Presbyterian Church, and a Roman
Catholic establishment. The city was
occupied by General Sherman's forces
February 17, 1865.
Camden, 33 miles from Columbia,
the capital, and 142 miles from Charles-
ton. This city is situated on the Wa-
teree River, navigable to this point by
steamboats. Camden is a place of great
historic interest. A battle was fought
near by, August, 1780, between the Amer-
cans, under General Gates, and the Brit-
ish, under Lord Cornwallis; and another
in April, 1781, between General Greene
and Lord Rawdon. The scene of the lat-
ter struggle is the southeastern slope
of Hobkirk's Hill, now called Kirkwood,
a beautiful summer suburb of the old
town. Upon the green, in front of the
Presbyterian Church, on De Kalb Street,
there is a monument over the grave of
Baron De Kalb, who fell in the battle of
August, 1780, at Camden. The corner-
stone was laid in 1825, by Lafayette.
The headquarters of Cornwallis, to be seen
here, was a fine old building now in ruins.
64
ORANGEBURG.]
On the Market House there is a well-exe-
cuted metallic effigy, 10 feet high, of King
Haiglar, a most famous chieftain of the
Catawbas. Mr. Simms has made this In-
dian king the theme of one of his fine le-
gends. It contains an arsenal, academy,
factory, bank, and four churches. Popu-
lation 1,600.
|
SOUTH CAROLINA.
[BEAUFORT.
lowlands without ill results. In the
winter, however, life may easily be made
enjoyable in the villages here, under the
balmiest and most healthful of tempera-
tures, and in the midst of genial and re-
fined society.
Beaufort, in a district of the same
name, is pleasantly situated on Port
Royal River, 16 miles from the sea, and
about 50 miles west-southwest of Charles-
44 ton. It affords a delightful summer
| residence, and has daily communication
by steamer with the cities of Charleston
and Savannah. It contains an arsenal,
a seminary, bank, and several churches.
The journey on the South Carolina Rail-
way will give the traveller some inkling
of the lowland features of the Southern
landscape, though not in its strongest or
most interesting character-since much
of the way is through extensive pine
forests, which makes the rhyming sneer
bestowed upon this part of the country
not altogether inapt:
Orangeburg is on the line of the
South Carolina (Columbia branch) Rail-
way, 97 miles from Charleston, 44
from Columbia, and 17 from Branchville.
It is a spot of historic interest, near the
banks of the Edisto River. It formed a
link in the chain of military posts estab-
lished by the British after the fall of
Charleston. Among the old relics here,
are some remains of the works erected by
Rawdon, near the Edisto, and the old
Court-House, which bears traces, in the
shape of bullet marks, of the assault
made by Sumter, in 1781. General Sher-
man's forces occupied the town, February
12, 1865, preparatory to their march on
Columbia.
Eutaw Springs, interesting as
the scene of the famous battle of Eutaw,
is about 40 miles below Orangeburg, and
60 miles northwest of Charleston. Fort
Motte, a relic of the Revolution, stands
upon high terrace ground, near the Bull's
Head Neck, on the Congaree, just above
its meeting with the Wateree, six miles
from Kingsville, on the Columbia Branch
of the North Carolina Railway.
Cheraw, near the northern line of
the State, is pleasantly situated on the
Great Pedee River, at the head of steam
navigation, 162 miles from Charleston and
93 miles from Columbia.
The Seaboard and Lowland towns, vil-
lages, and plantations of South Carolina
may be reached by the steamboats which
ply between Charleston and Savannah, or
by stage or carriage from the line of rail-
way. The traveller will not see them in
their own peculiar beauty, because the
climate in summer time, when the won-
derful tropical vegetation covers the rank
earth, is not to be braved by the unac-
climated. The planters themselves, in-
deed, remove with their families, at this
season, either to the uplands or to the
little sandy pine-covered elevations with
which the country is dotted. The negroes
alone can bear the summer heats of the
"Where to the north, pine-trees in prospect
rise;
Where to the east, pine-trees assail the skies;
Where to the west, pine-trees obstruct the
Where to the south, pine-trees forever grew!"
view;
But a second glimpse will reveal,
amidst all these "pinc-trees," the tower-
ing cypress, with its foliage of fringe and
its garlands of moss-the waxen bay-leaf,
the rank laurel, and the clustering ivy;
and, if you are watchful, you may catch,
in the rapid transit of the cars through
the swamps, glimpses of almost intermin-
able cathedral aisles of cypress and vine,
sweeping through the deeper parts of the
boundless lagoons. But a railroad glimpse,
and especially at the speed with which
you travel here, is quite insufficient for
reasonable observation. At Woodlands,
a mile only south of Midway, the centre
of the road, lived before the war the
poet and novelist Simms. Yonder, in
that wide and spreading lawn, stood our
author's mansion-an old-fashioned brick
structure, with massive and strange por-
tico. The ranks of orange and live-oak
trees which sentinel his castle, are the ob-
jects of his tenderest care-true and
ardent lover of Nature as he is. Mr.
Simms has a particular fondness for the
fragrant grape-vine, depending in such
65
SOUTH CAROLINA.
[LOWLAND.
|
and bayous of the stream. Go where
you may, you must not fail to peep into
the dark and solemn swamps. You may
traverse their waters on wild bridges of
decayed and fallen trees; you may dream
of knight and troubadour, as your eye
wanders through the Gothic passages of
cypress, interlacing their branches, and
bearing the ever-dependent moss, which
hangs mournfully, as if weeping over the
desolation and death which brood within
the fatal precincts. If you fear not to
startle the wild-fowl, to disturb the ser-
pent, or to encounter the alligator, you
may enter your skiff, and, sailing through
the openings in the base of the cypress,
you may penetrate at pleasure, amidst
bush and brake, into the mystic cham-
bers of these poisonous halls. Mr. Simms
has beautifully described these solemn
scenes in his 'Southern Passages and
Pictures: '
LOWLAND.]
fantastic and numberless festoons from
the limbs of yon venerable tree. It is
strong-limbed as a giant, and, but for
the grace with which it clings to the old
forest-king, would seem to be rather
to be rather
struggling with him for his sceptre, than
loyally and lovingly suing for his protec-
tion. The vine drops its festoons, one
beneath the other, in such a manner that
half a dozen persons may find a cozy seat,
each over his fellow, for a merry swing.
On a dreamy summer eve, you may va-
cillate, in these rustic couches, to your
heart's content; one arm thrown round
the vine will secure you in your seat,
while the hand may hold the favorite
book, and the other pluck the delicious
clusters of grapes, which, as you swing,
encircle your head like the wreath upon
the brow of Bacchus. If the rays of the
setting sun be hot, then the rich and im-
penetrable canopy of foliage above you
will not prove ungrateful.
(C
As affording a most marked and not
altogether pleasing contrast to the pic-
ture which farm and domestic life at
the South now presents to the stran-
ger, we insert the following charac-
teristic sketch, by a well-known trav-
eller, of a visit to South Carolina,
before secession times. A stroll over
Mr. Simms' plantation will give you
a pleasant inkling of almost every feat-
ure of the Southern lowlands, in nat-
ural scenery, social life, and the char-
acter and position of the slave popu-
lation. You may sleep sweetly and
soundly within his hospitable walls, se-
cure of a happy day on the morrow,
whether the rain holds you prisoner
within doors, or the glad sunshine drags
you abroad. He will give you a true
Southern breakfast, at a very comforta
ble hour, and then furnish you abundant
sources of amusement in his well-stocked
library, or suffer you to seek it elsewhere,
as your fancy listeth. At dinner, you
shall not lack good cheer, for either the
physical or the intellectual man, and then
you may take a pleasant stroll to the
quiet banks of the Edisto-watch the
raft-men floating lazily down the stream,
and interpret as you will the windings
and echoes of their boat-horns-or you
may muse in the shaded bowers of Tur-
tle Cove, or any of the many other inlets
"Tis a wild spot, and bath a gloomy look;
The bird sings never merrily in the trees,
And the young leaves seem blighted. Á rank
growth
Spreads poisonously round, with power to taint,
With blistering dews, the thoughtless hand that
dares
To penetrate the covert. Cypresses
Crowd on the dank, wet earth; and stretched at
length,
The cayman-a fit dweller in such home-
Slumbers, half buried in the sedgy grass,
Beside the green ooze where he shelters him.
A whooping crane erects his skeleton form,
And shricks in flight. Two summer-ducks
aroused
To apprehension, as they hear his cry,
Following his guidance.
Dash up from the lagoon, with marvellous haste,
Meetly taught by
these,
And startled by our rapid, near approach,
Crawls slowly to his slimy, green abode,
The steel-jawed monster, from his grassy bed,
Which straight receives him. You behold him
now,
His ridgy back uprising as he speeds,
In silence, to the centre of the stream,
Whence his head peers alone.'
*
Rambling, once upon a time, through
the negro quarters of Mr. Simms' planta-
tion, we amused ourself in studying the
varied characters of the slaves, as shown
in the style of their cabins, the order in
which they kept them, the taste displayed
in their gardens, etc.; for every man has
all the material and time at his command
to make himself and his family as com-
fortable as he pleases. The huts of some
|
*
((
*
66
2.
LOWLAND.]
bore as happy an air as one might desire;
neat palings enclosed them; the gardens
were full of flowers, and blooming vines
clambered over the doors and windows.
Others, again, had been suffered by the
idle occupants to fall into sad decay; no
evidence of taste or industry was to be
seen in their hingeless doors, their fallen
fences, or their weed-grown gardens.
These lazy fellows were accustomed even
to cut down the shade-trees which had
been kindly planted before their homes,
rather than walk a few yards further for
other and even better fuel. The more
industrious of the negroes here, as else-
where, employ their leisure hours, which
are abundant, in the culture of vegetables
and in raising fowls, which they sell to
their masters, and thus supply themselves
with the means to purchase many little
luxuries of life. For necessaries they
have no concern, since they are amply
and generously provided with all that
they can require. Others, who will not
thus work for their pin-money, are de-
pendent upon the kindness of their mas-
ters, or more frequently upon their inge-
nuity at thieving. Many of them sell to
their master in the morning the produce
they have stolen from him the previous
night. At least, they all manage to
keep their purses filled; and we were
assured that not one, had he occasion or
desire to visit Charleston or Augusta,
but could readily produce the means to
defray his expenses. One old woman
was pointed out to us, who had several
times left the plantation, with permission
to remain away as long as she pleased;
yet, although her absences were some-
times of long continuance, she was too
wise not to return to a certain and good
home. Wander how and wither she
would, in due time her heart would join
the burden of the song:
SOUTH CAROLINA.
'Oh! carry me back to old Virginny,
To old Virginny's shore!'
[LOWLAND.
|
ous, the young ladies of the household
gayly busied themselves in kind prepara-
tions for the event; in instructions to the
bride, in the preparation of her white
muslin robe, of her head-dress, and other
portions of her toilet, in writing her notes
of invitation to her sable friends-Mr.
Sambo Smith or Miss Clara Brown,
according to the baptismals of their re-
spective masters, whose names the negroes
of the South always assume.
In our
quality of artist, we had the pleasure to
expend our water-colors in wreaths of
roses, and pictures of cupids, hearts, and
darts, and so on, upon the icings of the
cakes which the young ladies had pre-
pared for the bridal feast; and who
knows but that our chef d'œuvres were
consumed by ebony lips on that memora-
ble night? The ceremony took place in
the cabin of the bride, and in presence of
the whites; and then followed revelry,
feasting, and dancing upon the lawn,
much to the delight of the happy pair and
their dark friends, and scarcely less to the
pleasure of the bride's kind mistress and
of all of us who witnessed their sports
from the parlor windows. By the way,
when you journey in the South, line your
pockets with tobacco, dispense it gener-
ously to the darkeys, and they are your
friends for life. Upon the seaboard,
and its many lovely and luxuriant islands,
you will find the beau ideal of Southern
soil, climate, vegetation, architecture, and
character. Here abound those lovely
inlets and bays, which compensate for the
absence of the lake scenery of the North.
These bayous and lakelets are covered
with the rankest tropical vegetation;
they abound in every species of wild-fowl
birds of the most gorgeous plumage,
songsters of the sweetest notes-the
mocking-bird and the nightingale, the
robin, and a host of other equally cele-
brated warblers. Here, the foliage is so
dense and rich, in form and color, that a
poor imagination will readily people the
spot with elves and sprites; and there,
again, so dark and solemn are the cav-
erns, overshadowed by the impenetrable
roofs of leaves, that you may readily in-
terpret the screech of the owl, the groan
of the bull-frog, and the hiss of the ser-
pent, into the unearthly wail of damned
spirits. These are fitting haunts for the
"While once visiting some friends in
Carolina, we had the pleasure of witness-
ing the bridal festivities of one of the
servants of the family, a girl of some
eighteen years. The occasion was one
of those pleasant things which long hold
place in the memory. For days previ-
67
[LOWLAND.
|
sad and contemplative mind at the witch-
ing hour of night. Here are the large
rice plantations. The white population
is thus necessarily thin yet opulent. The
cabins of the negroes on these extensive
domains, surrounding the mansion and its
many outbuildings of the proprietor, give
to every settlement the aspect of a large
and thriving village. There is something
peculiarly fascinating in this species of
softened feudal life. The slaves are for
the most part warmly attached to their
masters, and they watch over their inter-
ests as they would their own. Indeed,
they consider themselves part and parcel
of their master's family. They bear his
name, they share his bounty; and their
fortune depends wholly upon his. Through
life they have every comfort; the family
physician attends them when sick, and in
their old age and imbecility they are well
protected. They glory in their master's
success and happiness; their pride is in
exact proportion to the rank of the family
they serve; and, whatever that may be,
they still cherish a haughty and self-satis-
fied contempt for 'poor white folks.'
The planters themselves, descended from
an old chevalier stock, and accustomed
through many generations to the seclu-
sion of country life, and that life under
Southern skies, and surrounded with all
the appliances of wealth and homage,
have acquired an ease, a grace, a gener-
osity, and largeness of character, incom-
patible with the daily routine of the petty
occupations, stratagems, and struggles
of modern commercial and metropolitan
life, be it in the South or the North.
Where the swamps and bayous do not
extend, the country, still flat, is mostly
of a rich sandy soil, which deeply tinges
the waters of all the rivers from the At-
lantic to the Mississippi. This is charac-
teristic of the southern portions of all the
Gulf States. The rivers, as they extend
toward the interior, are lined with high
sandy bluffs, which, still further
ward, give place, in their turn, to moun-
tain ledges and granite walls. These
streams, from the Mississippi to the Ala-
bama, the Chattahoochee and the Savan-
nah, to the smaller rivers of Carolina and
Florida, are filled with sandy islands,
ever changing their position and form.
Frequently high freshets occur in them,
SOUTH CAROLINA.
[GEORGETOWN.
completely altering their channels, and
bearing away the produce of whole plan-
tations, from the cotton bale to the family
domicile, and the century-aged tree which
shaded it. In crossing the smaller water-
courses of the South, we have often ob-
served marks of the extent of a freshet
upon high trees, at an elevation of 50 or
60 feet above our head. We happened
to be in Augusta years ago, during a
great rise in the waters of the Savannah.
In the course of some few hours, the river
had extended its limits throughout the
city, and over the plain for miles in every
direction. It was a novel and beautiful
sight to gaze from your balcony upon this
unlooked-for Venice. Boats were sailing
in every direction through the streets-
even the ponderous crafts of the Savan-
nah, capable of holding fifty or sixty men.
We observed the pretty vessel of the
Augusta Boat Club' dashing up Broad
Street and under the hotel windows, with
the crew in full dress, music sounding,
and gay banners waving upon the air!
A ferry was established to pick up pas-
sengers at their doors or windows, and
convey them to the base of the Sand-hills,
a summer retreat, some three miles to
the northward. The cross streets leading
from the river were washed away to the
depth of many feet, and for days after-
ward passengers were transported across
them in flats and bateaux. From these
freshets, with the innumerable stagnant
pools which they leave, together with the
miasma arising from immense quantities
of decaying vegetable matter, spring
many of the local fevers and diseases of
the South. In Augusta, the yellow fever
followed the great freshet, and carried
off, during the brief space of a few weeks,
nearly three hundred of the inhabitants.
This terrible scourge had not previously
visited the city for eighteen years, and
has not since returned.
Georgetown, one of the oldest
north-settlements in South Carolina, is about 15
miles from the sea, on Winyaw Bay, near
the junction of the Pedee, Black, and
Waccamaw Rivers. The district of
Georgetown, next to that of Beaufort,
produces more rice than any other section
of the State. Some Revolutionary menu-
ories are awakened here. In 1780 the
vicinage was the scene of a skirmish be-
68
GREENVILLE.]
tween American and British troops, and
in 1781 it was taken from the enemy by
General Marion, and the military works
destroyed.
[FALLS OF SLICKING.
well deserving a visit. Across this valley
is the Fall of Slicking, its long line of
sparkling spray heightening the beauty
of the scene. The Stool Mountain, which
is prominent from the valley below, here
dwindles to its proper height. The top of
the rock, which is comparatively level, is
of great extent. In many places the sur-
face is stony, in others alluvial and cov-
ered with noble trees. Near the centre,
the remains of a hut exist; a building
erected as a kitchen to a hotel, which it
was once contemplated to erect on the
rock. Though the enterprise was given
up, it is not at all impracticable. The
50 or 60 acres of tillable land might fur-
nish provisions, while for water there is
a spring, of the most grateful purity and
coolness, near the middle of the isolated
and elevated demesne.
SOUTH CAROLINA.
MOUNTAIN VILLAGES AND
SCENERY.
|
The northern districts of South Carolina
form, with the neighboring hill-region of
Georgia, and the western portion of North
Carolina, one of the most interesting chap-
ters in the great volume of American
landscape. In mountain surprises, pic-
turesque valley nooks, and romantic
waterfalls, this region is nowhere sur-
passed in all the Union. Beautiful and
healthful villages, with high social attrac-
tions, afford most agreeable homes and
headquarters to admirers of the pictu-
resque. These villages are rapidly becom-
ing favorite summer resorts of the people
of the lowlands of the State; and their
elegant mansions and villas are every
year more and more embellishing their
vicinity.
|
The Falls of Slicking are in the moun-
tain glens, on the opposite side of the
valley, at the base of the Table Rock.
Leaving the cabin at the base of the
Saluda Mountain, the tourist, in his ascent,
soon finds himself following the windings
of the river. After the passage of about
Greenville, 271 miles from Charles-
ton, 128 from Columbia. HOTELS, Man-one-quarter of a mile, he reaches the
sion House, Goodlett House. Greenville, "Trunk," so called from its being the
in the northwest corner of the State, lies at point of junction of two different branches
the threshold of the chief beauties of this of the river or creek; the distance be-
region, and gives ready access to all the tween these streams, as you continue to
rest. The village is beautifully situated on ascend, gradually increases, and when
Reedy River, near its source, and at the near the summit, they are widely separat-
foot of the Saluda Mountain. It is one of ed; they bear one name, and abound,
the most popular summer resorts in the each, in cascades. The right-hand branch
up-country of Carolina, being in the imme- is the more picturesque, and is the one
diate vicinity of the Table Mountain, the by which the visitor is usually conducted.
White Water, and the Slicking Falls, the
Jocasse, and Saluda Valleys, the Keowee
River, Paris Mountain, Cæsar's Head, and
numerous other bold peaks of the Blue
Ridge. The Table Mountain, 20 miles
above the village of Greenville, is one of
the most remarkable of the natural won-
ders of the State, rising as it does 4,300
feet above the sea, with a long extent on
one side of perpendicular cliffs, 1,000 feet
in height. The view of these grand and
lofty rocky ledges is exceedingly fine from
the quiet glens of the valley of the cove
below, and not less imposing is the splen-
did amphitheatre of hill-tops seen from its
crown. Among the sights to be seen
from Table Mountain is Caesar's Head.
It is the highest point in the vicinity, and
From the "Trunk," the gem of all this
locality, and the Table Rock, is a charm-
ing view of the neighboring mountains of
Cæsar's Head, Bald Mountain, the Pin-
nacle Rock, and other spurs. At the
"Trunk," the two streams fall perpen-
dicularly some seventy feet, mingling in
one in the basin below. This basin is
easily accessible, and nowhere is there a
more secluded or more wildly picturesque
spot. Save when in his meridian, the
sun's rays seldom violate its solitude. On
one side are the two cascades leaping in
snowy masses from rock to rock, and on
others are mighty bulwarks of venerable
stone, here and there studded with the
adventurous shrub, or overhung with rich
foliage.
69
SOUTH CAROLINA.
KEOWEE.]
|
Pendleton is an agreeable little village,
on Eighteen Mile Creek, Anderson Dis-
trict, in the mountain region. It is easily
reached from Greenville, at Anderson
Court House.
Fort Hill, once the residence of the
statesman John C. Calhoun, is a few
miles only from the village of Pendleton.
It is a plain but comfortable building of
wood, with piazzas and other fittings and
arrangements, after the usual fashion of
Southern country houses. Walhalla, a
flourishing German settlement, is in this
region.
Pickens Court House is a few hours'
ride north of Pendleton and west of
Greenville. It is within excursion dis-
tance of the Keowee River, the Valley of
Jocasse, the Cataract of the White Water,
and other interesting scenes.
The Keowee is a beautiful mountain
stream, in Pickens District, which, with
the Tugaloo River, forms the Savannah.
The road to the Valley of Jocasse lies
along its banks.
"I have been where the tides roll by,
Of mighty rivers deep and wide,
On every wave and argosy-
And cities builded on each side;
Where the low din of commerce fills
The ear with strife that never stills.
"Yet not to me have scenes like these,
Such charms as thine, oh peerless stream!
Not cities proud my eye can please-
Not argosies so rich I decni-
As thy cloud-vested hills that rise-
And forests looming to the skies!"
The Keowee region is full of romantic
memories of the Cherokee wars.
The Jocasse Valley, near the northern
line of the State, is one of the most
charmingly secluded little nooks in the
State, environed as it is on every side,
except that through which the Keowee
steals out, by grand mountain ridges.
The chief charm of Jocasse is, that it is
small enough to be felt and enjoyed all at
once, as its entire area is not too much for
one comfortable picture. It is such a
valley as painters delight in.
[SPARTANBURG,
universal admiration, for their extent
alone, even were the accessory scenes far
less beautiful than they are.
The num-
ber of visitors here is increasing year by
year, and the time is approaching when
this and the thousand other marvels of
Nature in the Southern States, will win
tourists from the North, as the White
Mountains and the Catskills, and Trenton
and Lake George, now attract pilgrims
from the South.
The White Water Cataracts are an
hour's brisk walk north of Jocasse. Their
chief beauty is in their picturesque lines,
and in the variety and boldness of the
mountain landscape all around: though
they would still maintain their claims to
Adjoining this most attractive region
of South Carolina, and easily accessible
therefrom, are the many beautiful scenes
of the western portion of North Carolina,
of which we have already spoken, and
of Tallulah, and Toccoa, and Yonah, and
Nacoochee, and numerous other lovely
spots in the hill-region of Georgia, which
yet remain undescribed.
Spartanburg, 223 miles from
Charleston, 93 miles from Columbia, by the
Greenville and Columbia, and Spartanburg
and Union Railways, is in the midst of a
mineral region, famous for its gold and
iron. Here, too, are some celebrated
limestone springs. The place is the seat
of a University, endowed by Benjamin
Wofford, and controlled by the Method-
ists; also of a prosperous Female College.
An Asylum for the Deaf, Dumb, and
Blind is located here. Within the limits
of this district is the memorable Revolu-
tionary battle-field of the Cowpens, locat-
ed on the hill-range called the Thickety
Mountain. The battle was fought Janua-
ry 17, 1781, and resulted in the defeat
of the British under Tarleton. In the olden
time, the cattle were suffered to graze
upon the scene of the contest-whence its
name.
Yorkville is situated midway
on the upper boundary of South Car-
olina, upon an elevated plain which
forms the dividing ridge between the
Catawba and the Broad Rivers. In the
vicinity there are some valuable sulphur
and magnesia waters, to add to the at-
tractions of winning scenery and roman-
tic story which the region so abundantly
offers to the tourist. It is right in the
heart of the mountain scenery of the
State. From Charleston the route is by
the South Carolina Railway, and Colum-
bia branch to Columbia, thence by the
Charlotte road to Chester, and thence, 22
70
YORKVILLE.]
miles, by King's Mountain Railway.
The route from the North is by Weldon.
Twelve miles northeast of Yorkville, and
little more than a mile south of the North
Carolina line, is the battle-field of King's
Mountain. The King's Mountain range
extends about sixteen miles southward,
sending out lateral spurs in various di-
rections. The scene of the battle is six
miles from the summit of the hill. A
simple monument to the memory of Fer-
guson and others marks the spot, and on
the right there is a large tulip-tree, upon
which it is said ten tories were hanged.
SOUTH CAROLINA.
[YORKVILLE
|
|
It was a hotly-contested fight, the British
loss being 1,105 killed, wounded, and
prisoners. It was fought October 7,
1780. Crowder's Knob, the highest peak
of King's Mountain, is about 3,000 feet
above the level of the sea. The Mountain
Gap, near the Cherokee Ford, the Great
Falls of the Catawba, and Rocky Mount,
the scene of another of the partisan
struggles,
A struggles, and Hanging Rock, where
Sumter fought a desperate fight, are also
interesting scenes and localities of this
hill-region of South Carolina.
71
GEORGIA.J
GEORGIA.
"(
[GEORGIA.
GEORGIA.
extending about eighty miles, is very
similar in character to that of the Caroli-
nas, being lined with fertile islands cut
off from the main land by narrow lagoons
or sounds. The famous sea-island cotton
is grown here; and wild-fowl are abun-
dant in all varieties. Upon the main,
rice plantations flourish, with all the
semi-tropical vegetation and fruit which
we have seen in the occan districts of
South Carolina. Passing northward to
the central regions of the State, the cot-
ton-fields greet our eyes at every step,
until the surface of the country becomes
more and more broken and hilly, and, at
last, verges upon the great hill-region
traversed by the Appalachian or Alle-
ghany Mountains. These great ranges oc-
sent to the charmed eye of the tourist
scenes of beauty and sublimity not sur-
passed in any section of the Union.
THIS great State, long regarded as the
"Empire State" of the South, possesses
unrivalled sources of prosperity and
wealth; and though they are as yet only
in the dawn of development, the traveller
will not hesitate to predict for her a glo-
rious future, when he notes the spirit of
activity, enterprise, and progress which
so markedly distinguishes her from other
portions of the South. While Nature is
here everywhere most prodigal in means,
man is earnest in improving them.
Georgia was settled the latest of the
"Original" Thirteen States of the Union.
She derived her name with her charter
from George II., June 1732. Her
first colony was planted by General Ogle-
thorpe, on the spot where the city of
Savannah now stands, in 1773, sixty-cupy all the northern counties, and pre-
three years after the settlement of South
Carolina, and a century behind most of
the original colonies. Three years after
the arrival of Oglethorpe, Ebenezer was
planted by the Germans, 25 miles up the
Savannah River. Darien, on the sea, was
commenced about the same time by a
party of Scotch Highlanders. Among
the early troubles of the colony was a
war with the Spaniards in Florida, each
party in turn invading the territory of
the other. The people of Georgia took a
vigorous part in the Revolution, and the
State was in possession of the British a
portion of that time. The city of Savan-
nah was taken by them, December 29,
1778. A bold attempt was made by the
combined American and French forces to
recapture it, but failed, with the loss to
the allies of 1,100 men. The great
Cherokee Country, in the upper part of
the State, came into the full possession of
the whites in 1838, when the Indians
were removed to new homes beyond the
Mississippi. The sea-coast of Georgia,
RIVERS.-There are many fine rivers in
Georgia; but, as with the water-courses
of the South generally, they are often
muddy, and their only beauty is in the
rank vegetation of their shores, with here
and there a bold sandy bluff. As the
railroad system of the State has not yet
been restored, and many travellers will
have occasionally to avail themselves of
steamboats as means of reaching points of
sojourn in the interior, we propose to give
a brief description
a brief description of the principal of
these rivers. The Savannah, which di-
vides the States of Georgia and South
Carolina through half their length, has a
course, exclusive of its branches, of about
450 miles. The cities of Augusta and Sa-
vannah are upon its banks, and it enters
the Atlantic 18 miles below the latter place.
From June to November it is navigable
for large vessels as far as Savannah, and
72
GEORGIA.]
for steamboats up to Augusta, a distance
to Augusta, a distance
of 230 miles from its mouth. The river
voyage between these points is a very
pleasant one, presenting to the eye of
stranger many picturesque novelties
in the cotton-fields which lie along the
banks through the upper part of the pas-
sage, and in the rich rice plantations be-
low. Approaching Savannah, the tourist
will be particularly delighted with the
mystic glens of the wild swamp reaches,
and with the luxuriant groves of live-oak
which shadow the ancient-looking manors
of the planters. A few miles above the
city of Savannah, he may visit the spot
where Whitney invented and first used
his wonderful cotton-gin. The alligator,
in times before the war, was often seen sun-
ning himself on the shores of the lower
waters of the Savannah, being abundant
in the contiguous swamps. "When our
canoe," says Sir Charles Lyell, in his
record of travels in this region, “had
proceeded into brackish water, where the
river banks consisted of marsh land, cov-
ered with a tall, reed-like grass, we came
close to an alligator, about nine feet long,
basking in the sun. Had the day been
warmer, he would not have allowed us to
approach so near to him, for these rep-
tiles are much shyer than formerly, since
they have learned to dread the avenging
rifle of the planter, whose stray hogs and
sporting dogs they often devour. About
ten years ago, Mr. Cooper tells us he saw
two hundred of them together in St.
Mary's River, extremely fearless."
derful stories are told of these creatures,
many of them much too wonderful for
credence. They are now becoming rare,
as one acquainted with their habits ob-
served to me, being probably disturbed
by the violent explosions of gunpowder at
the time of the attack on Spanish Fort.
They have been but seldom seen of late.
Fort Pulaski (see Savannah and vicinity).
The Oconee River rises in the gold lands
of the mountain districts of Georgia, and
traverses the State until it meets the
Ogeechee, and with that river reaches the
sea under the name of the Altamaha.
Milledgeville, the capital, and Athens, one
of the most beautiful places in the State,
are on this river.
The Ocmulgee is
navigable for small steamboats to Macon.
The Flint River, in the western part of
Won-
4
GEORGIA.
[GEORGIA.
| the State, passes by Lanier, Oglethorpe,
and Albany, and uniting with the Chatta-
hoochee, at the southwest extremity of
the State, forms the Appalachicola. The
length of the Flint River is about 300
miles. Its navigable waters extend 250
miles, from the Gulf of Mexico to Albany.
The Chattahoochee is one of the largest
and most interesting rivers of Georgia.
It pursues a devious way through the
gold region westward from the mountains
in the northeastern part of the State, and
makes the lower half of the dividing line
between Georgia and Alabama. At the
point where it enters Florida it is joined
by the Flint River, and the united waters
are thenceforward called the Appalachi-
cola. The Chattahoochee is navigable for
large steamboats as far up as Columbus,
350 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. The
principal towns on this river besides Co-
lumbus, are Eufaula, West Point, and
Fort Gaines. The Ogeechee rises in
Green County, flows southeastward, and
enters the Atlantic through Ossabaw
Sound, 20 miles south of Savannah. Its
whole length is estimated at 250 miles.
It is navigable for sloops a distance of
between 30 and 40 miles. Fort McAllis-
ter, on Genesis Point, which commands
the entrance to this river, is interesting
from the part it played in the defense of
the city by General Hardee. It success-
fully resisted the attacks of the monitor
fleet in January and March 1863, but was
finally captured by General Hazen's
division of the 15th Corps (Sherman's
army), on the 13th December, 1864.
RAILWAYS.-The railway system of
Georgia, embracing upwards of 1,400
miles of railroad, is now so far advanced
toward complete restoration, that we
venture to give all the lines, with their
branches. The Central Railway, from Sa-
vannah, 190 miles to Macon. Stations-
Savannah to Eden, 20 miles; Guyton, 30;
Egypt, 40; Armenia, 46; Halcyondale,
50; Ogeechee, 62; Scarboro', 70; Millen,
79 (branch road 53 miles to Augusta);
Cushingville, 83; Herndon, 90; Speir's,
111; Davisboro, 123; Tennille, 134;
Oconee, 146; Emmett, 153; Kingston,
160; Gordon, 170 (branch to Milledge-
ville and Eatonton); Griswold, 182;
Ma-
con, 190 miles. Milledgeville and Eaton-
1
73
RAILWAYS.]
GEORGIA.
[SAVANNAH.
ton Branch. Stations-Gordon to Wol- | ley, 28 miles; to Marshallville, 7; Win-
chester, 9; Oglethorpe, 21; Anderson,
30; Americus, 41; Sumter, 51; Albany,
76 miles (branch to Eufaula). The Sa
vannah, Albany, and Gulf Road will con-
nect Savannali and Tallahassee, Florida.
It extends at present from Savannah, 189
miles, to Boston, from which point a line
of stages runs to Tallahassee and other
places in Florida.
sey, 9 miles; Milledgeville, 18; Dennis,
29; Eatonton, 38 miles. Macon and
Western Railway, from Macon, 103 miles
to Atlanta, terminus of Georgia Railway.
Stations-Macon Junction, Howard's, 8
miles; Crawford's, 13 miles; Smarr's, 19;
Forsyth, 24; Collier's, 30; Goggin's,
Barnesville, 40; Milner's, 47; Thornton's,
Griffin, 58; Fayette, 65; Lovejoy's,
Jonesboro', 79; Rough and Ready, 90;
East Point, 95; Atlanta, 103 miles. The
Georgia Railway, from Augusta, 171
miles to Atlanta, passing through Belair,
Berzelia, Dearing, Thomson, Camak, Bar-
nett, Crawfordsville, Union Point, Greens-
boro', Oconee, Buckhead, Madison, Rut-
ledge, Social Circle, Covington, Conyer's,
Lithonia, Stone Mountain, and Decatur.
A branch line, 10 miles long, extends
from Camak to Warrenton, the capital of
Warren County; another of 18 miles
from Barnett to Washington, the capital
of Wilkes County; another from Union
Point to Athens, the capital of Clarke
County. The road (the Georgia) connects
at Augusta with the South Carolina road
for Charleston and Savannah. The West-
ern and Atlantic Road, from Atlanta, 136
miles, northward to Chattanooga, Tennes-
Stations-Atlanta to Vining's, 8
miles; Marietta, 20; Acworth, 35; Alla-
toona, 40; Cartersville, 47; Cass, 52;
Kingston, 59; Adairsville, 69; Calhoun,
78; Resaca, 84; Tilton, 91; Dalton, 100;
Tunnel Hill, 107; Ringgold, 115; Chick-
amauga, 128; Boyce, 133; Chattanooga,
136 miles. The Rome Railway deflects
from the Western and Atlantic at Kings-
ton, and extends 20 miles to Rome. The
Atlanta and West Point Railway extends
from Atlanta, 87 miles to West Point,
whence it is continued by the Montgomery
and West Point Railway, 88 miles to Mont-
gomery, Alabama. Stations-Atlanta to
East Point, 6 miles; Fairburn, 18; Pal-
metto, 25; Newnan, 40; Grantville, 52;
Hogansville, 59; Lagrange, 72; Long
Cane, 78; West Point, 87 miles. The
Southwestern and Muscogee Railway, from
Macon, terminus of Central road, 99 miles,
to Columbus. Stations-Macon to Eche-
connee, 12 miles; Powersville, 21; Fort
Valley, 28; Everett's, 35; Reynolds', 41;
Butler, 50; Columbus, 99 miles. The
Southwestern, from Macon to Fort Val-
see.
SAVANNAH.
From New York by steamer; 90 miles
from Charleston.
HOTELS. The principal hotels of Sa-
vannah are—the Pulaski House, on Bryan
Street, Johnson Square; the Marshall
House, in Broughton Street, and the
Scriven House. The last two have been
lately refurnished.
|
Savannah, the largest city of Georgia,
with a population of about 30,000, is
upon the south bank of the Savannah
River, 18 miles from the sea. Its site is a
sandy terrace, some 40 feet above low-
water mark. It is regularly built, with
streets So wide and so unpaved, so
densely shaded with trees, and so full of
little parks, that, but for the extent and
elegance of its public edifices, it might
seem to be an overgrown village, or a score
of villages consolidated in one. There are
no less than twenty-four squares scat-
tered through the city, and most of the
streets are lined with the fragrant flower-
ing China-tree, or the Pride of India, and
the magnolia, while some of them, as
Broad and Bay Streets, have cach four
grand rows of trees, there being a double
carriage-way, with broad walks on the
outsides, and a promenade between.
These numerous shady avenues have
gained for it the title of the "Forest
City" of the South. Savannah was
founded by General James Oglethorpe, in
1732. It was occupied, in 1778, by the
British, and came back into the posses-
sion of the Americans in 1783. But few
Revolutionary remains are now to be seen,
the city having overgrown most of them.
Batteries, ramparts, and redoubts have
given place to the more pleasant sights
of fragrant gardens and shady parks.
74
SAVANNAH.]
It has suffered severely from the ravages of
fire, first in 1796, again in 1820, and last in
January 28, 1865. The aggregate amount
of property destroyed at these times ex-
ceeded $6,000,000. Jasper's Spring, the
scene of a brave and famous exploit of
the old war time, may yet be visited.
It lies near the Augusta road, two
miles and a half from the westward
of Savannah. The spring is a foun-
tain of purest water, in the midst of a
marshy spot, covered with rank shrub-
bery, at the edge of a forest of oak
and pine trees. The interest of the place
is in its association only. Sergeant New-
ton Jasper, aided only by one companion,
watched by this spring for the passage of
a party of American prisoners under a
British guard of eight men, whom they
boldly and successfully assailed, restoring
the captives to their country and friends.
In memory of this action, Sergeant Jas-
per's name has been given to one of the
public parks of the city. Among the
most attractive places of public resort is
Forsyth Park, at the head of Bull Street.
A fountain, the design of which is taken
from the Crystal Palace fountain at Sy-
denham, England, adorns the centre of
this pretty ground. It is of elaborate
workmanship, and cost $6,500. In John-
son or Monument Square, opposite the
Pulaski House, there is a fine Doric obe-
lisk erected to the memories of Generals
Greene and Pulaski, the corner-stone of
which was laid by Lafayette during his
visit in 1825. It is a marble shaft, 53
feet in height. The base of the pedestal
is 10 feet 4 inches by 6 feet 8 inches, and
its elevation is about 12 feet. The
needle which surmounts the pedestal is 37
feet high. Another and very elegant
structure has since been built (1853) in
Chippewa Square to the memory of Pu-
laski. This general fell gallantly during
an attack upon the city, while it was oc-
cupied by the British in the year 1779.
The monument appropriately covers the
spot where Pulaski fell. It is one of the
most chaste and perfect specimens of
monumental architecture in the United
States. The shaft is of the purest marble
and the steps are plinths of granite. It is
55 feet high, and surmounted by an ex-
quisitely carved statue of Liberty holding
the national banner. The arms of Georgia
[SAVANNAH.
and Poland are intertwined on the cor-
nice of two sides of the monument. It
was constructed by Launitz, of New York,
at a cost of $22,000 in gold.
Among the public buildings of note in
Savannah are the new Custom House,
corner of Bull and Bay Streets; the City
Exchange, in front of which General
Sherman reviewed his army, January 7,
1865; the Court House, Theatre, Armory,
Arsenal, and Jail. St. Andrew's Hall
and the Chatham Academy are conspicu-
ous buildings. From the tower of the
Exchange the best view of the city and
neighborhood is to be had.
Among the church edifices the Episco-
pal Churches of St. John's and Christ's are
the most striking. The lofty spire of the
Independent Presbyterian Church is much
and deservedly admired. This building
is built of Quincy granite, and cost $80,-
000. Trinity Church stands on St.
James' Square, near the spot where John
Wesley delivered his famous sermons. The
State Historical Society has a fine library.
The principal charitable institutions are-
the Orphan Asylum, the Union Society,
originally established by Whitefield, the
Hibernian and Seaman's Friend Socie-
ties, the Georgia Infirmary, the Savannah
Hospital, and the Savannah Free School.
The building on the northeast corner
of Bull and Broughton Streets, known as
the Masonic Hall, is interesting to the
visitor as the place where the Ordinance
of Secession was passed, January 21,
1861. Four years after (December 28,
1864), a meeting of citizens was held in
the same apartment to commemorate the
triumph of the Union arms. The main
apartment is now (1866) used as a bil-
liard-room. Among the interesting rel-
ics of the past history of Savannah
are the building in which the colonial
Legislature held its sessions, on South
Broad Street, just east of Drayton; and
the mansion of the Governor of Georgia
during the occupation of the city by the
British, which stands on Broughton
Street. Savannah is one of the healthiest
of the Southern cities, and its climate is
constantly improving, owing, it is said, to
the improved manner of cultivating the
great rice lands in the neighborhood. No
pleasanter winter home for invalids or
others can be found; for, to the balmy
GEORGIA.
75
VICINITY.]
climate of the region, and every appli-
ance of physical comfort, there are super-
added extraordinary social attractions in
the cultivated manners and the hospita-
ble hearts of the people. It is well sup-
plied with good water brought from the
Savannah River, west of the Ogeechee. It
was occupied by the Federal forces, under
General Sherman, on the morning of De-
cember 21, 1864. The fortifications,
which constituted the so-called defences
of the city, are six miles in extent, and are
easily reached from the centre of the city.
Five daily newspapers are published here.
VICINITY.
GEORGIA.
The vicinage of Savannah, though flat,
is exceedingly picturesque along the many
pleasant drives, and by the banks of the
river and its tributary brooks. Every
where are noble avenues lined with
live-oaks, the bay, the magnolia, the
orange, and a hundred other beautiful
evergreen trees, shrubs, and vines.
The Cemetery of Bonaventurè, three
miles distant, on the Warsaw River, is a
wonderful place. It was originally a pri-
vate estate, laid out in broad avenues,
which cross each other. These avenues
are now grand forest aisles, lined with live-
oaks of immense size; their dense leafage
mingling overhead, and the huge lateral
branches trailing upon the ground with
their own and the superadded weight of
the heavy festoons of the pendent Span-
ish moss.
A more beautiful or more sol-
emn home for the dead, than in the shades
of these green forest aisles, cannot
well be imagined. The endless cypress
groves of the "silent cities" by the Bos-
phorus are not more impressive than the
intricate web of these still forest walks.
Bonaventurè has thus been sketched by
star-light:
"Along a corridor I tread,
High overarched by ancient trees,
Where, like a tapestry o'erhead,
The gray moss floats upon the breeze:
A wavy breeze which kissed to-day
Tallulah's falls of flashing foam,
And sported in Toccoa's spray--
Brings music from its mountain home.
"The clouds are floating o'er the sky,
And cast at times a fitful gloom,
As o'er our hearts dark memories fly,
Cast deeper shades on Tatnall's tomb;
[SAVANNAH.
While glimmering onward to the sea,
With scarce a rippling wave at play,
A line of silver through the lea,
The river stretches far away."
19
"Tatnall's tomb," a family vault of the
former possessors of these grounds, stands
near the centre of the cemetery.
Fort Pulaski, on Cockspur Island, near
Tybee Island, situate on the south side of
the entrance to Savannah River, was the
scene of a severe bombardment during the
late naval operations on the coast. It
was attacked from batteries erected on
Tybee Island, and surrendered April 11,
1862. Fort McAllister, near King's
Bridge, on the west bank of the Ogeechee,
is well worthy a visit. It is reached by
the Gulf Railway.
Thunderbolt, four miles east of the city.
According to local tradition, this place
received its name from the fall of a thun-
derbolt. A spring of water which issued
from the spot upon that event, has con-
tinued to flow ever since.
Guristersigo Battle-field, eight miles dis-
tant, was the scene of an engagement, in
1782, between General Wayne and a
body of Indians under their chief Guris-
tersigo.
Routes from Savannah.-Georgia is
famous, the Union over, for her railroad
enterprise. In this respect, as in most
others, she leads all the Southern States.
Her lines of railway traverse her borders,
and especially in the central and northern
portions, in every direction, linking all
districts to each other and
with all the surrounding States. Nearly
1,500 miles of railroad-either finished
or being built-now centre in Savannah,
communicating thence, directly or indi-
rectly, westward with Macon and Colum-
bus, northward with Charleston and with
Montgomery in Alabama, with Augusta,
Atlanta, and onward to Tennessee, etc.
The Atlantic and Gulf Railroad is com-
pleted and in operation a distance of 189
miles to Boston, whence it will soon
reach Pensacola and other points in Flor-
ida. The Central Railroad extends from
Savannah, 190 miles, to Macon, with
branch deflecting from Millen to Augusta,
and another from Gordon to Milledgeville
and Eatonton. The Macon and Western
links the Central road from Savannah with
the Western and Atlantic at Atlanta. All
76
AUGUSTA.]
these and other routes we shall duly fol- |
low as we continue our journey through
the south and southwest. Florida is
reached at Pilatka, Jacksonville, St. Au-
gustine, and other places, by regular tri-
weekly steamers from Savannah. (See
chapter on Florida.) Steamboats ply daily
to Augusta and other points on the Sa-
vannah River. Lines of steamships also
furnish direct communication with New
York, Philadelphia, and other Northern
Atlantic ports.
GEORGIA.
[ATLANTA.
States Arsenal, erected in 1827, and the
long range of workshops built and used
by the Confederates during the war. The
latter extend upwards of 500 feet in
length, are substantially built, and pre-
sent an imposing aspect. Returning to
the city by leaving the main road to the
left, a short distance from the Arsenal
the traveller can get a view of the Pow-
der Mill and Cotton Factories immediately
on the outskirts of the city. These latter
are very extensive, and give constant em-
ployment to 700 operatives. There are
other pleasant drives along the banks of the
Savannah, particularly below the city; and
across the river at Hamburg there are
some beautiful wooded and grassy terraces,
known as Shultz's Hill, and much re-
sorted to as a picnic-ground. Augusta
has one or two fine public buildings. The
City Hall, built at a cost of $100,000, the
Medical College, the Richmond Academy,
and the Masonic Hall, are every way
creditable to the taste and liberality of
the people. The monument, which stands
in front of the City Hall, was erected to
the memory of the signers of the Declara-
tion of Independence from the State of
Georgia. The churches are about fifteen
in number. St. Patrick's, corner of Jack-
son and Telfair Streets, constructed in
1863, at a cost of $42,000, is a fine edifice.
The Market Houses are on Broad Street,
and are three-fourths of a mile apart.
The rapid development of the up-country
of Georgia, within a few years, has
brought down to Augusta, by her rail-
ways, great prosperity; and the water
power which has been secured by means
of a canal, which brings the upper floods
of the Savannah River to the city, at an
elevation of some 40 feet, is enlarging
and enriching it by extensive and profita-
ble manufactures. This canal, 9 miles in
length, was constructed in 1845.
|
|
Augusta—HOTELS, the Planters',
Augusta, and the Globe, centrally located
on Broad Street, are all well-conducted
establishments. Augusta, one of the most
beautiful cities in Georgia, and the second
in population and importance, is on the
eastern boundary of the State, upon the
banks of the Savannah River, 230 miles
from its mouth, and at the head of its
navigable waters, 120 miles north-north-
west from Savannah, and 136 northwest
from Charleston, with both of which
cities it has long been connected by rail-
road. Railway connection with the lat-
ter city, which was broken during the
war by the destruction of portions of the
track, has not yet (May, 1866) been re-
stored. The town was laid out in 1735,
under royal charter. It was again char-
tered January 31, 1798, and incorporated
as a city December 19, 1817. The area
embraced by the city is two miles in
length and about one in width. Its pres-
ent population is nearly 20,000, and is
steadily increasing. Broad Street, the
main thoroughfare of the city, is a noble
avenue. This is the Broadway of the city,
wherein all the shopping and promenad-
ing are done, and where the banks, and
hotels, and markets are to be found.
Greene Street is also a broad, prettily
shaded avenue. Of late years, Augusta
has spread itself greatly over the level
lands westward.
A pleasant ride of between two and
three miles from the heart of the town,
brings the visitor to a lofty range of sand-
hills, covered with charming summer
residences. This high ground is in
healthful atmospheres, even when epi-
demics prevail-as they very rarely do,
however in the city below. This sub-
urban settlement is now known as Sum-
merville. Here are located the United
Athens, 92 miles from Augusta,
71 from Milledgeville. HOTEL, Lanier
House.
This is a flourishing town on the
Oconee River, at the terminus of the
Athens branch of the Georgia Railway.
The situation is healthy, and the climate
delightful. It is the seat of Franklin
College.
Atlanta-HOTEL, National.
The city of Atlanta is the outgrowth
77
ATLANTA.]
of the railroad system centreing there.
It is emphatically a railroad town. The
original charter of the Western and At-
lantic Railway authorized its construction
from Chattanooga, Tennessee, to the
southeast bank of the Chattahoochee
River. In 1837 an act was passed
authorizing its extension eight miles in a
southeasterly direction, the survey for
which brought it to the site of the pres-
ent city. In 1845 the Georgia Railroad
was completed to Atlanta, and formed a
junction with the Chattanooga and Atlanta
or "State Road," as it is locally known.
In 1848 the Macon and Western Railroad
was completed, but little progress was
made toward a permanent settlement
until 1852. Even as late as 1853 the
population of the place scarcely amounted
to 1,500.
GEORGIA.
[DECATUR.
| to all the stores and ammunition, and
soon the heavens were lurid with the
flames which rose from the doomed city.
A reconnoitring column from General Slo-
cum's command entered the city on the 2d,
and received its formal surrender from
Mayor Calhoun. It is estimated that up-
wards of one thousand buildings, includ-
ing the principal factories, mills, and
workshops, were destroyed by this fire.
The main buildings at present remain-
ing, are the Medical College, the Presby-
terian, Methodist, and Baptist Churches,
the City Hall, and a few of the residences
in the northern extremity of the city.
The city is rising phoenix-like from its
ashes; the greater portion of the burnt
district has already been rebuilt, and soon
but little trace of its downfall and de-
struction will be left. The corporate lim-
its embrace an area of four miles square,
and the population, already 12,000, is rap
idly increasing.
|
Apart from the memorable siege with
which its name is inseparably connected,
Atlanta possesses little to interest the
traveller or tourist. Owing to its com-
manding central position, in the very
heart of the South, not less than on
account of its railroad, manufacturing,
and other important advantages, it be-
came a point of the utmost importance
early in the war. Indeed, in the opinion
of those best qualified to judge, its im-
portance was second only to that of Rich-
mond. The series of active military
operations of which Atlanta was the cen-
tre, commenced July 9, 1864, by the
retreat of General Johnston within the
fortifications of Atlanta, which extended
nearly five and a half miles along the
river. By the 17th of July, the Federal
forces, with the exception of one (Davis's)
division of the 14th corps, were across
the Chattahoochee, and on the 18th occu-
pied the Georgia Railroad, from Stone
Mountain on the northeast to Decatur
and Peach Tree Creek, within five miles
of Atlanta. On the 17th the command
of the Confederate troops was transferred
to General Hood. From that time up to
the 1st of September, a vigorous siege of
the city was kept up, when General Hood
gave orders for the evacuation of the
works, it having been discovered that the
main body of the besieging army lay
between the city and General Hardee.
Fire was set to the rolling stock of the
several railroads concentrating here, and
Decatur, a station on the Georgia
Railroad, six miles east of Atlanta, is a
healthy and agreeable resort. Stone
Mountain, 9 miles from Decatur, is also
reached from Atlanta by the Georgia
road. At this place is an isolated dome-
shaped granite rock 2,200 feet above the
sea level. On the summit of this rock is
a tower 180 feet high, commanding a fine
view of the surrounding country. The
village has good hotel accommodations.
(See Stone Mountain, in mountain scenery
of Georgia.)
Dalton, situated 100 miles north of
Atlanta and 36 miles south of Chatta-
nooga, at the intersection of the East
Tennessee and Georgia with the Western
and Atlantic Railway, is a growing place.
The town (formerly Cross Plains) was
laid out in 1846. Mountain scenery in
the vicinity.
Macon, 191 miles from Savannah,
100 from Atlanta. HOTELS, the Lanier
House, Brown's Hotel. Macon, one
of the most prosperous and popu-
lous cities of Georgia, is prettily situated
on the Ocmulgee River, at the western
terminus of the Central Railway. Occu-
pying so central and important a position,
it is not a little surprising that it entirely
escaped the ravages of war. Like most
of the cities of the State, it is well laid
out. The streets are generally 180 feet
78
MILLEDGEVILLE.]
wide, and adorned with shade-trees. The
soil being of a sandy, porous character,
does not long retain moisture, and the
locale is healthy and inviting. The Wes-
leyan Female College, a flourishing insti-
tution before the war, and even now,
numbering over 100 students, is located
here. The Academy for the Blind, built
by the State, of brick, four stories high,
is an imposing edifice. It has, also, a
Botanico-Medical College, a Free Acade-
my, and several schools for orphans.
There are several iron foundries, flour
mills, and machine shops. The Macon
factory is prosperously engaged in the
manufacture of coarse cotton goods.
cotton goods.
Rose Hill Cemetery, on the banks of the
Ocmulgee, is a pretty rural retreat, within
easy walking distance of the city. It is
well improved, and contains some fine
monuments. Lamar's Mound is a rising
ground, covered with fine private resi-
dences, a continuation of which brings
the visitor to the pleasant suburban vil-
lage of Vineville. The population of the
city is upwards of 12,000, and increasing.
Three daily and two weekly newspapers
are published here.
GEORGIA.
[ALBANY.
convenience for visitors. Columbus is
a town of considerable trade, situated on
the east bank of the Chattahoochee River,
which forms the western boundary of the
State. Across the river has been erected
a fine bridge, connecting Columbus with
the town of Girard, Ala. It was laid
out in 1827, on what was then known as
the Coweta Reserve, at the head of the
Falls. These falls supply one of the
finest water-powers to be found in the
South, and the manufacturing interests
of the city are already very extensive.
It is the centre of a fine agricultural dis-
trict, and large quantities of cotton are
shipped hence to the seaboard, via the
Chattahoochee (see Chattahoochee River).
The principal buildings are the Court
House, Presbyterian Church, Temperance
IIull, Bank of Columbus, and two hotels.
The streets are all wide and laid out at
right angles. Of the three bridges which
formerly crossed the river at this point,
and which were destroyed during the
war (April, 1865), but one has been re-
built. The city has railway communica-
tion with all important points in the
State. Population 10,000. Just above
Columbus there are some picturesque
rapids in the Chattahoochee, overlooked
by a fine rocky bluff, famous in story as
the "Lover's Leap." The scene would
Milledgeville. HOTELS, Mil-
ledgeville Hotel, Mc Comb's Hotel. Mil-
ledgeville, the capital of Georgia, a town
of about 3,000 people, is upon the Oconee
River, in the midst of a fine cotton-grow-be
ing region. From Savannah, by the
Central Railway, to Gordon, 171 miles,
and thence by the Milledgeville and
Eatonton, 18 miles. Total, 189 miles.
From Augusta, 163 miles; from Colum-
bus, 135 miles; and from Atlanta, 139
miles. The Capitol at Milledgeville is a
large Gothic structure. The city also
contains a State Arsenal, a Penitentiary,
a Court House, and five church edifices.
The Oglethorpe University is at Midway,
a pretty village on the railway, 14 miles
below Milledgeville.
Eatonton, the county seat of Put-
nam County, is pleasantly situated on a
high ridge of land, at the terminus of the
branch road from Gordon, on the Georgia
Central. It has excellent schools and
attractive scenery.
Columbus, 99 miles from Macon,
139 miles from Atlanta. HOTELS, Hor-
bach's (formerly Perry House), Cook's,
both well-kept establishments, with every
a gem in regions the most renowned
for natural beauty. On the left, the river
pursues its downward course to the city,
in a straight line. Its flow is rapid and
wild, broken by rocks, over which the
water frets and foams in angry surges.
The bed of the stream is that of a deep
ravine, its walls lofty and irregular cliffs,
covered to their verge with majestic
forest growth. From this point the city
of Columbus is but partially visible. The
village of Girard and the surrounding
hills on the Alabama side form a dis-
tinct and beautiful background to the
picture.
Fort Valley, in Houston County,
is on the Southwestern Railway, 72 miles
east of Columbus, and 28 miles southwest
of Macon. It contains two church edifices
and a flourishing academy.
Albany, 76 miles from Macon, by
the Southwestern Railway, is on Flint
River, at the mouth of Kinchafoonee
Creek.
Creek. Cotton to the amount of 15,000
79
1
CLARKSVILLE.]
[TOCCOA FALLS.
bales was shipped from this point previ- | Madison Springs, Mount Currahee, and
ous to the war. The surrounding coun- Toccoa.
try is among the richest in the State.
Eufaula, Ala., a thriving town on the
Chattahoochee River, is reached by a
branch road from the Southwestern Rail-
way at Smithville.
The Mountain Region of
Georgia.-Throughout all Northern
Georgia, the traveller will find a continua-
tion of the charming Blue Ridge land-
scape, which we have already explored in
the contiguous regions of Upper South
Carolina, and North Carolina West. This
picturesque district in the "Pine State"
extends from Rabun County, in the north-
eastern corner of the State, to Dade, in
the extreme northwest, where the summit
of the Lookout Mountain overlooks the
valley of the Tennessee. Here are the
famous gold lands, and in the midst of
them the Dahlonega branch of the United
States Mint. The most frequented, if not
the finest scenes in this neighborhood are
in the northeast, as the wonderful Falls
of Tallulah and Toccoa, the valley of Na-ed
cochee and Mount Yonah in Habersham
County, the Cascades of Eastatoia and
the great Rabun Gap in Rabun; all within
a day's ride of the Table Mountain,
Cæsar's Head, Jocasse, the Whitewater
Falls, and other wonders of South Caro-
lina. Further west are the Falls of Ami-
calolah, the Cahutta Mountain, the Dog-
wood Valley, and Mount Lookout. This
was formerly the hunting-ground of the
Cherokees; and, indeed, not many years
have passed since the final removal of
this tribe to new homes beyond the Mis-
sissippi.
GEORGIA,
Clarksville, a pleasant village in
Habersham County, is a favorite summer
residence of the people of the "Low
Country" of Georgia, and the point of
rendezvous for the exploration of the
landscape of the region-the point from
whence to reach Tallulah, Toccoa, Nocoo-
chee, etc. From Charleston or Columbia,
or other places in South Carolina, follow
the railways to Greenville or to Anderson,
S. C., and proceed thence by stage, one
to two days' ride, to Clarksville; or take
the Georgia railways from Augusta to
Athens, and thence by stage, one or two
days' travel, to Clarksville, passing the
80
Toccoa Falls is in the County of
Habersham, a few miles from the village
of Clarksville. A narrow passage leads
from the roadside to the foot of the fall.
Before the spectator rises a perpendicular
rock resembling a rugged stone wall, and
over it
"The brook comes babbling down the moun-
tain's side."
The height of the fall is now 180 feet.
"Beautiful streamlet! onward glide,
In thy destined course to the ocean's tide!
So youth impetuous, longs to be-
Tossed on the waves of manhood's sea:
But weary soon of cloud and blast,
Sighs for the haven its bark hath passed;
And though thou rushest now with glee,
By hill and plain to seek the sea-
No lovelier spot again thou'lt find
Than that thou leavest here behind;
Where hill and rock 'rebound the call'
Of clear Toccoa's waterfall!"
There are picturesque legends connect-
with this winsome spot; one of which
narrates the story of an Indian chief and
his followers, who, bent upon the exter-
mination of the whites, and trusting to
the guidance of a woman, were led by
her over the precipice, and, of course,
perished in their fall.
The Cataracts of Tallulah are 12 miles
from Clarksville (see route to Clarksville),
by a road of very varied beauty. From Toc-
coa to Tallulah the cut across is five or six
miles only. There is a comfortable hotel
near the edge of the gorges traversed by
this wild mountain stream, and hard by
its army of waterfalls.
of waterfalls. The Tallulah or
Terrora, as the Indians more appositely
called it, is a small stream, which rushes
through a chasm in the Blue Ridge, rend-
ing it for several miles. The ravine is
1,000 feet in depth, and of a similar
width. Its walls are gigantic cliffs of
dark granite. The heavy masses piled
upon each other in the wildest confusion,
sometimes shoot out, overhanging the
yawning gulf, and threatening to break
from their seemingly frail tenure, and
hurl themselves headlong into its dark
depths. Along the rocky and uneven
bed of this deep abyss, the infuriated
Terrora frets and foams with ever-varying
THE PULPIT.]
course. Now, it flows in sullen majesty,
through a deep and romantic glen, em-
bowered in the foliage of the trees, which
here and there spring from the rocky
ledges of the chasm walls. Anon, it
rushes with accelerated motion, breaking
fretfully over protruding rocks, and utter-
ing harsh murmurs, as it verges a preci-
pice-
GEORGIA,
"Where, collected all,
In one impetuous torrent, down the steep
It thundering shoots, and shakes the country
round:
[MOUNT YONAH.
| With or without such associations, it will
be remembered with pleasure by all
whose fortune it may be to see it. The
valley-passages of the South are special-
ties in the landscape, being often so small
and so thoroughly and markedly shut in,
that each forms a complete picture in it-
self The little vale of Jocasse, in South
Carolina, is such a scene, and that of Na-
coochee is another, and yet finer example.
Nacoochee, like Tallulah and Toccoa, is a
pleasant day's excursion from Clarks-
W
ville.
At first, an azure sheet, it rushes broad;
Then whitening by degrees as prone it falls,
And from the loud-resounding rocks below
Dashed in a cloud of foam, it sends aloft
A hoary mist, and forms a ceaseless shower."
Mount Yonah looks down into the
quiet heart of Nacoochee, lying at its
base. If the tourist should stay over-
night in the valley, as he will be apt to do,
he ought to take a peep at the mountain
panorama to be seen from the summit of
old Yonah. The village of Clayton is an
out-of-the-way little place, occupying the
centre of a valley completely encircled by
lofty mountain ranges.
The Falls of the Eastatoia are some
three or four miles from the village of
Clayton, in Rabun, the extreme north-
eastern county of Georgia. They lie off
the road to the right, in the passage of
the Rabun Gap, one of the mountain
ways from Georgia into North Carolina.
Clayton may be reached easily from
Clarksville, the next town southward, or
in a ride of 12 miles from the Falls of
Tallulah.
The Eastatoia, or the Rabun Falls,
as they are otherwise called, would
be a spot of crowded resort, were it
in the midst of a more thickly peo-
pled country. The scene is a succes-
sion of cascades, noble in volume and
character, down the ravined flanks of a
rugged mountain height. From the top
of one of the highest of the falls, a mag-
nificent view is gained of the valley and
waters of the Tennessee, north of the vil-
lage of Clayton, and the hills which en-
compass it. Before exploring further
the mountain scenery of Georgia, we feel
in duty bound to say a few words about
accommodations, conveniences for travel,
etc., and to remind the traveller, that
when he leaves the frequented routes
hereabouts, or anywhere among the
Southern hills, he must voyage in his
The most familiar point of observation
is The Pulpit, an immense cliff which
projects far into the chasm. From this
position, the extent and depth of the fear-
ful ravine, and three of the most roman-
tic of the numerous cataracts, are observed.
At various other localities fine glimpses
down into the deep gorge are afforded,
and numerous other paths lead to the
bottom of the chasm. At the several
cataracts—the Lodore, the Tempesta, the
Oceana, the Serpentine, and others the
picture is ever a new and striking one-
which the most striking and beautiful, it
would be very difficult to determine.
The natural recess called the Trysting
Rock, once the sequestered meeting-
place of Indian lovers, is now a halting-
spot for merry groups as they descend
the chasm, just below the Lodore cascade.
From this point, Lodore is upon the left,
up the stream; a huge perpendicular
wall of parti-colored rock towers up in
front and below; to the right are seen
the foaming waters of the Oceana cas-
cade, and the dark glen into which they
are surging their maddened way. Tem-
pesta, the Serpentine, and other falls, lie
yet below. The wild grandeur of this
mountain gorge, and the variety, number,
and magnificence of its cataracts, give it
rank with the most imposing waterfall
scenery in the Union.
The Valley of Nacoochee, or the Even-
ing Star, is said by tradition to have
won its name from the story of the hap-
less love of a beauteous Indian princess, | own conveyance, wagon or on horseback
whose sceptre once ruled its solitudes. | (the latter the better), stop for the night
81
FALLS OF AMICALOLAH.]
at any cabin near which the twilight may |
find him, content himself with such fare
as he can get (we won't discourage him
by presenting the carte), and pay for it
moderately when he resumes his journey
in the morning.
GEORGIA.
[DAHLONEGA.
bosom; and so tranquil and mirror-like
is its surface, that one will fancy it to be
a thing of life, conscious of its proximate
fate, rallying all its energies for the start-
ling leap; and he can scarcely forbear
moralizing upon the oft-recurring and
striking vicissitudes of human life, as illus-
distin-trated in the brief career of this beautiful
streamlet.
Union County, lying upon the north-
west line of Habersham, is
guished for natural beauty, and for
its objects of antiquarian interest.
Among these is the Track Rock, bearing
wonderful impressions of the feet of curi-
ous animals now extinct.
Pilot Mountain, also in Union, is a no-
ble elevation of some 1,200 feet.
|
Hiawassee Falls, on the Hiawassee Riv-
er, present a series of beautiful cascades,
some of them from 50 to 100 feet in
height.
The Falls of Amicalolah are in Lump-
kin County, southwest of Habersham.
They lie some 17 miles west of the village
of Dahlonega, near the State road leading
to East Tennessee. The name is a com-
pound of two Cherokee words" Ami,"
signifying water, and "Calolah," rolling
or tumbling; strikingly expressive of the
cataract, and affording us another instance
of the simplicity and significant force of
the names conferred by the untutored
sons of the forest. The visitor should
rein up at the nearest farm-house, and
make his way thence, either up the Rat-
tlesnake Hollow to the base of the Falls,
or to the summit. The range of moun-
tains to the south and west, as it strikes
the eye from the top of the falls, is truly
sublime; and the scene is scarcely sur-
passed in grandeur by any other, even in
this country of everlasting hills. The
view from the foot embraces, as strictly
regards the falls themselves, much more
than the view from above, and is there-
fore, perhaps, the better; both, however,
should be obtained in order to form a just
conception of the scene; for here we
have a succession of cataracts and cas-
cades, the greatest not exceeding 60 feet,
but the torrent, in the distance of 400
yards, descending more than as many
hundred feet. This creek has its source
upon the Blue Ridge, several miles east
of the falls; and it winds its way, fringed
with wild flowers of the richest dyes, and
kissed in autumn by the purple wild-
grapes which cluster over its transparent
Dahlonega, the thriving capital
of Lumpkin County, is beautifully situated
on a high hill commanding a magnificent
view of the mountain scenery of this lovely
region.
region. The Indian name of the place
was Tau-lau-ne-ca, "Yellow Money."
The gold mines in the vicinity are still
worked, and are the richest in Georgia.
The United States branch mint cost
$100,000. Travellers will find a well-kept
hotel.
Mount Currahee is on the upper edge of
Franklin County, adjoining Habersham,
where we have already visited the Falls of
Tallulah and Toccoa, Nacoochee and
Yonah, and on the stage route from
Athens (see Clarksville) to those scenes.
It is about 16 miles above the village of
Cairnesville, and a few miles below the
Toccoa cascade. The traveller fresh from
the lowlands always finds this a scene of
much interest.
The Rock Mountain (Stone Mountain)
is a place of great repute and resort in the
western part of the State. It is in De Kalb
County, 16 miles east of Atlanta, the
western terminus of the Georgia Railway.
It may thus be easily reached by the
Georgia Road from Augusta, and all points
thereon, and from places on the many
different railways meeting at Atlanta.
(See Atlanta.) The mountain stands alone
in a comparatively level region. It covers
1,000 acres of surface. Its circumference
is about six miles. Its height above the
sea 2,230 feet, which is further increased
by the addition of an observatory. The
western view of the mountain, though
perhaps the most beautiful, is not calcu-
lated to give the beholder a just concep-
tion of its magnitude. To obtain this, he
must visit the north and south sides, both
at the base and at the summit. Pursuing,
for half a mile, a road which winds in an
easterly direction along the base of the
mountain, the traveller arrives directly
opposite its northern front. There the
82
LOOKOUT MOUNTAIN.]
GEORGIA.
I
view is exceedingly grand and imposing.
This side of the mountain presents an
almost uninterrupted surface of rock,
rising about 900 feet at its greatest eleva-
tion. It extends nearly a mile and a half,
gradually declining toward the west, while
the eastern termination is abrupt and
precipitous. The side is not perpendicu-
lar, but exhibits rather a convex face,
deeply marked with furrows. During a
shower of rain, a thousand waterfalls pour
down these channels; and if, as sometimes
happens, the sun breaks forth in his
splendor, the mimic torrents flash and
sparkle in his beams, like the coruscations
of countless diamonds. Near the road is
a spring, which, from the beauty of its
location, and the delightful coolness of its
waters, is an agreeable place of resort.
It is in a shady dell, and its water gushes
up from a deep bed of white and sparkling
sand. A more exquisite beverage a pure
taste could not desire. Among the curios-
ities of the mountain, there are two
which are especially deserving of notice.
One is the "Cross Roads." There are
two crevices or fissures in the rock, which
cross each other nearly at right angles.
They commence as mere cracks, increas-
ing to the width and depth of five feet at
their intersection. They are of different
lengths, the longest extending probably
400 feet. These curious passages are
covered at their junction by a flat rock,
about 20 feet in diameter. Another is
the ruins of a fortification, which once
surrounded the crown of the mountain.
It is said to have stood entire in 1788.
When or by whom it was erected is un-
known. The Indians say that it was there
before the time of their fathers.
•
Lookout Mountain.-On the summit
of this beautiful spur, the northwest
corner of Georgia and the northeast ex-
tremity of Alabama, meet the southern
boundary of Tennessee. Almost in the
shadow of the Lookout heights lies the
busy town of Chattanooga, in Tennessee,
on the great railway route from Charleston
via the Georgia roads to Knoxville, and
thence by the Virginia railways to the
north; and on the other hand westward,
through Nashville, to the Ohio and the
Mississippi. (See Chattanooga, in the
chapter on Tennessee.) The country
around the "Lookout" is extremely pic-
[SPRINGS.
turesque; the views all about the moun-
tain itself are admirable, and nothing can
exceed in beauty the charming valley of
the Tennessee and its waters, as seen from
its lofty summit. It is, too, in the imme-
diate vicinage of the Dogwood Valley, and
the Nickajack Cave in Alabama.
The Falls of the Towalaga would be
beautiful anywhere, and they are therefore
particularly so occurring as they do in a
part of the State not remarkable for its
picturesque character. They are easily
reached from Forsyth or Griffin on the
Macon and Western Railway. The river
above the falls is about three hundred
feet in width, flowing swiftly over a rocky
shoal. At its first descent it is divided by
a ledge of rock, and forms two precipitous
falls for a distance of fifty feet. The falls
are much broken by the uneven surface
over which the water flows, and on reach-
ing their rocky basin, are shivered into
foam and spray. From the foot of this
fall the stream foams rapidly down its
declivitous channel for two hundred feet,
and again bounds over a minor precipice
in several distinct cascades, which com-
mingle their waters at its base in a cloud
of foam.
SPRINGS.
The Indian Springs are in Butts County,
near the falls of the Towalaga. (See Macon
and Western Railway.)
The Madison Springs are on the stage
route from Athens to the waterfall region
of Habersham County, seven miles from
Danielsville, the capital of Madison
County. (See Athens branch, Georgia
Railway.)
The Warm Springs, in Merriweather
County, are 36 miles N. E. by stage
from Columbus. A nearer railway point
is Lagrange, on the Atlanta and West
Point Railway. These springs discharge
1,400 gallons of water per minute, of 90
degrees Fahrenheit.
The Sulphur Springs are six miles north
of Gainesville, Hall County, in the upper
part of the State. (See Athens branch,
Georgia Railway.)
The Rowland Springs are about six
miles from Cartersville, in Cass County.
Cartersville is a station on the Western
and Atlantic Railway, 47 miles north of
83
SPRINGS.]
Atlanta and 89 miles south of Chatta-
nooga.
The Red Sulphur Springs, or "the Vale
of Springs," are at the base of Taylor's
Ridge, in Walker County, the northwest
corner of the State. In the vicinage is
the Lookout Mountain and other beautiful
scenes. No less than twenty springs are
found here in the space of half a mile,-
chalybeate, sulphur, red, white and black,
and magnesia. (See Chattanooga and
vicinity.)
84
GEORGIA.
[SPRINGS.
The Thundering Springs are in Upson
County. The nearest railway station is
Forsyth. (See Macon and Western Rail-
way.)
The Powder Springs-sulphur and mag-
nesia-are in Cobb County, 20 miles
above Atlanta. (See Western and Atlantic
Railway.)
M
Nickajack Cave is in the immediate
vicinity of Chattanooga. (See chapter
on Alabama.)
FLORIDA.]
FLORIDA.
FLORIDA.
FLORIDA is much visited from the north |
during the winter months by those who
love mild and balmy atmospheres, and
especially by invalids in quest of health-
restoring climates. The villages of St.
Augustine, Jacksonville, Pilatka, and
neighboring places, which are those most
particularly sought, are near the Atlantic
coast, in the extreme northeastern part of
the State. They may be speedily and
pleasantly reached by steamers from
Charleston and Savannah, as we shall
show, after a very hasty peep at the spe-
cialties in the history and character of the
region. Though so recently (1820) ad-
mitted into the Confederacy of States,
Florida is more fertile in materials of his-
tory than many of her elder sister States.
Hither came Ponce de Leon (1512), hoping
to find the fabled fountain of perpetual
youth and strength; and shortly after,
Narvaez, who invaded the country from
Cuba with 400 men, and penetrating the
interior, was never again heard of. De
Soto followed in 1539, with a not much
happier reward, for though he subdued the
savages and took possession of their land,
it was only to leave it again and to pass on.
Battle and strife have, with intervals of
quiet, so characterized Florida, almost to
the present day, that its name would seem
but irony did it really refer, as is generally
supposed, to the floral vegetation of the
soil, instead of to the simple happening of
the discovery of the country on Pascua
Florida, or Palm Sunday. The earliest
settlements in Florida were made by the
French, but they were driven out by the
Spaniards, who established themselves
securely at St. Augustine in 1565, many
years before any other settlement was
made on the western shores of the Atlan-
tic. Before the Revolution, Florida warred
with the English colonies of Carolina and
|
[FLORIDA.
Georgia, and passed into British posses-
sion in 1763. It was reconquered by
Spain in 1781, and from that period until
within very late years, it has been the
field of Indian occupation and warfare.
The reconquest by Spain in 1781, was
confirmed in 1783, and in 1821 that
power
ceded the country to the United States.
Its territorial organization was made in
1822, and its admission into the Union as
a State occurred March 3, 1845. A san-
guinary war was waged from 1834 to 1842,"
between the troops of the United States
and the Indian occupants, the Seminoles,
led by their famous chief Osceola. Since
that period the savages have been re-
moved to other territory, excepting
some few who are still in possession of
the impenetrable swamps and jungles
of the lower portions of the State.
The ordinance of secession was pass-
ed at Tallahassee, January 7, 1861.
Florida is the grand peninsula forming the
extreme southeastern part of the United
Stats Its entire area eastward lies upon
the Atlantic, and the Gulf of Mexico
washes almost the whole of the western
side. Georgia and Alabama are upon the
north. The country is for the most part
level, being nowhere more than 250 or
300 feet above the sea. The southern
part of the peninsula is covered with a
large sheet of water called the Everglades
-an immense area, filled with islands,
which it is supposed may be reclaimed
by drainage. The central portion of the
State is somewhat elevated, the highest
point being about 171 feet above the
ocean, and gradually declining toward
the coast on either side. The country
between the Suwanee and the Chatta-
hoochee is elevated and hilly, and the
western region is level. The lands of
Florida are almost sui generis, very curi-
85
FLORIDA.]
[HIBERNIA.
|
|
ously distributed, and may be desig- | dina; other boats run between Savannah
nated as high hummock, low hummock, and Pilatka, calling at Brunswick, St.
swamp, savannas, and the different Marys, Fernandina, Jacksonville, and
qualities of fine land. High hum- Picolata. The St. Johns River is the prin-
mock is usually timbered with live and cipal point of attraction, and that to which
other oaks, with magnolia, laurel, etc., we propose to direct the more particular
and is considered the best description of attention of the tourist. It comes from
land for general purposes. Low hum- a marshy tract in the central part of the
mock, timbered with live and water oak, peninsula, flowing first northwest to the
is subject to overflows, but when drained mouth of the Ochlawaha, and thence
is preferred for sugar. Savannas, on the about northward to Jacksonville, and
margins of streams and in detached bodies finally eastward to the Atlantic. It is
are usually very rich and alluvious, yield- navigated by steamboats only to Pilatka,
ing in dry seasons, but needing, at other though vessels drawing eight feet of
times, ditching and diking. Marsh
water may pass up 107 miles, to Lake
savannas, on the borders of tide George. The entire length of the river
streams, are very valuable, when re- is 200 miles. The country which it trav-
claimed, for rice or sugar-cane. The erses is covered chiefly with dank cypress
swampy, island-filled lake called the swamps and desolate pine barrens; the
Everglades is covered with a dense jungle banks, which are from ten to twenty
of vines and evergreens, pines, and pal- feet high, are overgrown with the trees for
mettoes. It lies south of Okechobee, and which the State is so famous, amongst
is 160 miles long and 60 broad. Its which are the pine, magnolia, live-oak,
depth varies from one to six feet. A and palmetto.
rank tall grass springs from the vegetable
deposits at the bottom, and rising above
the surface of the water, gives the lake
the deceitful air of a beautiful verdant
lawn. The soil is well adapted, it is
thought, to the production of the plantain
and the banana. In the interior of Flori-
da there is a chain of lakes, of which the
extreme southern link is Lake Okechobee,
nearly 20 miles in length. Many of these
waters are extremely picturesque in their
own unique beauty of wild and rank tropi-
cal vegetation. The rivers of the State
are numerous, and, like the lakes, pre-
sent everywhere to the eye of the stranger
very novel attractions, in the abundance
and variety of the trees and shrubs and
vines which line all their shores and
bayous. The largest of the many rivers
is the Appalachicola, which crosses the
western arm of the State to the Gulf of
Mexico. The St. Mary's is the boundary
on the extreme northern corner, Georgia
being upon the opposite bank. Its waters
flow into the Atlantic, as do those of the
St. Johns River, in the same section of
the State. All the main points of inter-
est in Florida are easily reached from
Savannah by steam-packets down the
coast. The Dictator makes the round
trip from Charleston to Jacksonville
weekly, stopping at Savannah and Fernan-
FLORIDA.
|
|
Jacksonville, 25 miles from the
mouth of the St. Johns, is the most impor-
tant point on the river. It is a flourishing,
busy town of about 2,000 inhabitants,
has numerous saw-mills, and considerable
commerce. Jacksonville has direct rail-
way communication with Tallahassee and
Cedar Keys.
Hibernia, situated at the mouth
of Black Creek, 47 miles up the St. Johns,
is a quiet, pleasant, home-like place, of
considerable resort.
Middleburgh, 16 miles up Black
Creek, report speaks favorably of. It
consists of a few houses only.
Magnolia (56 miles, on the west
bank of the St. Johns) has a large hotel
kept by Dr. Benedict, a Northern physi-
cian, of established reputation. Good
rooms and good entertainment may be
expected here.
Green Cove Springs (warm
sulphur) are one and a half miles above
Magnolia. There is good accommodation
for visitors.
Picolata, 10 miles beyond Magno-
lia, and 66 miles from the mouth, has a
good house for visitors. This is the point
of departure for St. Augustine.
Pilatka, on the west bank, 25
miles, or two hours, further south, is a
new and thriving town, deriving consider
86
ENTERPRISE.]
|
able trade from the fertile back country.
It is the capital of Putnam County.
Here are two hotels. Passengers take
stage here for Orange Springs and
Ocala.
FLORIDA.
Wilaka is a comparatively recent
settlement, on the east bank of the St.
Johns, 110 miles from its mouth.
|
[ST. AUGUSTINE.
Sebastian River and marsh, we enter a
well-shaded avenue, flanked by gardens
and orange-groves, which leads directly to
the centre of the quaint old city. Here is
the public square, a neat enclosure of
some two acres, facing which, on either
side, stand the Court House, the Market
and wharf, the Protestant Episcopal
Church-a plain building, in the pointed
style, handsomely furnished-and, imme-
diately opposite, the venerable Roman
Catholic Church, a striking edifice of
seemingly great antiquity, but built only
about eighty years ago. It is of the periwig
pattern, and in the worst possible taste.
One of its bells bears date 1682. Con-
nected with this church is a small convent
and school. A minute's walk brings us
to the sea-wall or breakwater, a broad line
of massive masonry, built about 1840 by
order of Government, at great cost, for
the protection of the city, but whose chief
use is that of affording to the inhabitants
the pleasantest promenade in fine weather.
This wall extends half a mile southward
to the now deserted barracks and maga-
zine, and as far northward as Fort Marion
(formerly Castle of St. Mark), a pictu-
resque and decayed fortress, which once
commanded the whole harbor, looming up
out of the flat landscape, grand as a
Moorish castle, and forming the most
conspicuous and interesting relic of the
Spanish occupation. Parallel to this sea-
wall, run north and south, with short in-
tersections, the three principal streets or
lanes, long, narrow, without pavement
or sidewalk, irregularly built up with
(6
•
dumpy" but substantial houses, rather
dingy and antediluvian, mostly of stone,
or with the lower stories stone and the
upper of wood. They have invariably the
chimneys outside, and are ornamented
with projecting balconies and latticed
verandas, from which the gay paint has
long since faded, being all toned and
weather-stained into one sombre gray hue,
which, in keeping with the surroundings,
is the joint result of age, neglect, sun, and
saline air. Every house is separated from
its neighbor by more or less of garden plot,
ill protected by broken fence and crum-
bling wall, wherein they raise two or more
crops of vegetables every year, figs in
perfection, and roses in unmeasured
abundance. St. Augustine is sometimes
Enterprise (180 miles), also on
the east bank, on Lake Monroe, boasts
a new, large, commodious, and well-kept
hotel. The hunting and fishing are good
in the vicinity. Steamboat excursions on
the St. Johns River are frequently made
to Lake Harney, sixty miles above Enter-
prise. Thirty miles east from Enterprise,
on the sea-coast, and four miles from
Mosquito Inlet, is New Smyrna, consist-
ing of two houses. Reached by mail-
wagon, once a week. Mr. Sheldon enter-
tains company, and insures them capital
sport. Mail boat leaves here for Indian
River every second week. This is a fine,
healthy location. A new hotel is to be
put up the coming season.
St. Augustine, 160 miles from
Savannah, 200 from Tallahassee. St.
Augustine is well furnished with ho-
tels and boarding-houses, and there is
unusually ample and comfortable accom-
modation for all comers. The principal
hotels are the Magnolia, a well-built,
well-kept, and well-furnished resort, and
the Planters'. First-class boarding-
houses are also to be found. Visitors,
unless more than ordinarily difficult and
exacting, will find the tables satisfactorily
furnished; admirably so, considering the
isolation of the place, and its remoteness
from markets and commercial cities.
The winter fare consists of groceries and
butter from the North; delicious fish and
oysters, beef, game, poultry, venison,
duck, wild turkey, and occasionally green
turtle; green peas and salads are rarely
lacking, even in midwinter; game birds
are abundant, such as quail, snipe, etc.
St. Augustine is built along the seaward
side of a narrow ridge of land, situated be-
tween a salt marsh and estuary half a mile
from the beach, two miles from the ocean,
in sight of the bar and lighthouse, and
within hearing of the surf. The soil is
sandy loam and decomposed shell, and is
very productive. Approaching by a
bridge and causeway crossing the St.
87
ST. AUGUSTINE.]
styled the "Ancient City," and is, indeed,
the oldest in the United States. Its ap-
pearance is in strict keeping with its
venerable age, seen in the unequivocal
marks of decay or decrepitation. Perhaps
the friable nature of the common building
material contributes to this ruinous ap-
pearance, all the older houses being con-
structed of a stratified concrete of minute
shell and sand called coquina," in blocks
conveniently obtained, and easily worked,
hardening by exposure, but abrading and
crumbling in course of time. Coquina
houses, however, are invariably dark, and
always damp in winter, on which account
frame dwellings, although not so cool for
summer houses, are much preferred by
the innovating Yankees. But the Minor-
can, or sub-Spanish population, still
adhere to their traditions, and refuse to
be reformed. They build for the summer
time-the longest season-and wisely
build, when they do build, the same solid,
squat, low-doored, narrow-windowed, dis-
agreeably-dark and rheumatically-damp
dwellings as ever. Visitors, however, in
choosing winter quarters, will do well to
prefer those hotels which are of frame,
and have a cheerful sunny exposure.
Northerners seeking in Florida a milder
climate and permanent winter residence,
have generally preferred St. Augustine.
And with the best reason. The proximity
of the Gulf Stream renders it warmer in
winter and cooler in summer than the
settlements on the St. Johns River. It is
at present the most southern habitable
place on the eastern coast; and it has
peculiar advantages over all other towns
in East Florida-in its churches, its com-
pany, and its comforts. Good society
may always be had there; the citizens are
hospitable, and among the visitors are
always some agreeable persons, cultivated
and distinguished. Visitors begin to
arrive about the holidays, and the first
stranger" is looked for with as much
anxiety as the first Connecticut shad.
From the middle of March until the
middle of April is the height of the season,
and then the hotels are crowded. Deli-
ciously fresh and mild is the atmosphere
during the first spring heats. Then the
soft south wind fills the senses with a
voluptuous languor, and the evening land
breeze comes laden with the fragrance of
"C
FLORIDA.
[FERNANDINA.
orange-blossoms and the breath of roses.
A moonlight walk upon the sea-wall sug-
gests the Mediterranean, and the illusion
is heightened by the accents of a foreign
tongue. The effect of these happy climat-
ic and social conditions is very noticeable.
The most morose tempers seem to lose
their acerbity, and even the despairing
invalid catches the contagion of cheerful-
ness. Two-thirds of the population of St.
Augustine (amounting to 1,300 whites)
are of Spanish origin, and still speak the
Spanish language. The women are pretty,
modest, dark-eyed brunettes; dress neatly
in gay colors, are skilful at needle-work,
and good housewives. The men exhibit
equally characteristic traits of race and
nationality. The people are generally
poor. There are no manufactures. The
town produces little, and exports nothing
-its chief support, since the loss of its
orange-groves, being derived from Gov-
ernment offices, and receipts from strang-
ers.
It has one saw-mill, rarely running.
It has a bathing-house, three good physi-
cians, and a dentist. Anastatia Island,
opposite St. Augustine, is twenty miles in
length, and affords picturesque views.
Perhaps no city in the Union is healthier
than St. Augustine. Thirty-six miles north
of the St. Johns is the St. Mary's river.
St. Mary's.-St. Mary's may be in-
cluded in this region, though it lies in the
State of Georgia, yet still near the north-
east line of Florida.
east line of Florida. It is upon the St.
Mary's River, nine miles from the sea.
The village is a pleasant one, and the
healthfulness of climate makes it a great
resort for invalids.
Fernandina, the county seat of
Nassau County, is pleasantly situated on
the north end of Amelia Island, a little
south of the St. Mary's River. The island
is fifteen miles long and nearly three in its
greatest width. The land is well adapted
to the growth of cotton. The town con-
sists of about fifty houses, built of wood.
The harbor is considered one of the best
south of the Chesapeake.
Tallahassee, 194 miles from Mo-
bile, 130 from Pensacola. HOTEL, City
Hotel. Tallahassee, the capital of Florida,
is a pleasant city, of some 2,000 inhabi
tants, in the centre of the northern and
most populous part of the State, near the
head of the Gulf of Mexico. It is con-
88
•
TALLAHASSEE.]
nected by railroad, 26 miles, with St.
Marks, near the Gulf. It is regularly
built upon a somewhat elevated site.
Some of its public edifices are highly re-
spectable, but do not call for any especial
remark. Chief among the attractions of
Tallahassee are the many beautiful
springs found in the vicinity. Ten miles
from the city is a famous fountain, called
Wachulla. It is an immense limestone
basin, as yet unfathomed in the centre,
with waters as transparent as crystal. It
contains the State House, Court House,
and several churches. Here, on the 7th
of January, 1861, the ordinance of seces-
sion was passed.
FLORIDA.
ROUTES.
From Pensacola to Tallahassee.-To La
Grange (on Choctawhatchie Bay), by
steamboat, 65 miles; by stage to Holmes
Valley, 25; Oakey Hill, 42; Marianna,
66; Chattahoochee, 90; Quincy, 108;
Salubrity, 117; Tallahassee, 130. From
Jacksonville to Tallahassee.—To the White
Sulphur Spring, 82 miles. This curious
spring rises in a basin ten feet deep and
thirty in diameter; it discharges a quan-
tity of water, and after running a course
of about 100 feet, enters the Suwanee
River. The waters have been found very
beneficial in cases of consumption, rheu-
matism, and a variety of other complaints.
A Southern poetess has thus graphically Visitors will find ample accommodation
portrayed its beauties:
here. From the mineral spring to Madi-
son, 35 miles; Lipona, 73; Tallahassee,
98 or 180 miles from Jacksonville.
"Wachulla, beauteous Spring! thy crystal
waters
Reflect the loveliness of Southern skies;
And oft methinks the dark-haired Indian
daughters
Bend o'er thy silver depths with wondering
From forest glade the swarthy chief emerg-
eyes;
ing,
Delighted paused, thy matchless charms to
view:
Then to thy flower-gemmed border slowly
verging,
I see him o'er thy placid bosom urging
His light canoe!
With the bright crimson of the Maple twin-
ing,
The fragrant Bay its peerless chaplet
weaves;
And where Magnolias in their pride are shin-
ing,
The broad Palmetto spreads its fan-like
leaves:
Far down the forest aisles where sunbeams
quiver,
The fairest flowers their rainbow hues com-
bine;
And pendant o'er the swiftly flowing river,
The shadows of the graceful Willow shiver,
In glad sunshine!
Bright-plumaged birds their gorgeous hues
enwreathing,
Their amorous tunes to listening flowers
repeat;
Which, in reply, their sweetest incense
breathing,
Pour on the silent air their perfume sweet:
From tree to tree the golden jasmine creep-
ing,
Hangs its light bells on every slender spray;
And in each fragrant chalice slying peeping,
The Humming-Bird its odorous store is
reaping,
""
The livelong day!'
[PENSACOLA.
Appalachicola is at the entrance
of the river of the same name into the
Gulf of Mexico, through the Appalachicola
Bay. It is easily accessible by the river
and the gulf, and is a place of large cot-
ton shipments. It is 135 miles south-
west of Tallahassee. Population 2,000.
Pensacola-HOTELS, Bedell House,
Winter's House, St. Mary's Hall. Pensacola
is upon the Pensacola Bay, in the extreme
northwest corner of the State, 10 miles
from the Gulf of Mexico and 64 east of Mo-
bile. It was known as late as 1699 by its
| Indian name of Auclusia. The harbor here
is one of the safest on the Florida coast,
which is not remarkable for safe harbors.
It is well sheltered by St. Rosa Island,
and is defended by Forts Pickens, McRea,
and Barrancas. Forts McRae and Bar-
rancas were occupied by rebel troops dur-
ing the war of 1861-65. Pensacola is a
United States naval station, and contains
a Marine Hospital and Custom House.
The population of Pensacola is about
3,000.
Route from Pensacola to Mobile, Ala.
-To Blakely, 50; Mobile, 64 miles.
Tampa is on Tampa, formerly Es-
piritu Santo Bay, which opens on the
Gulf of Mexico, near the centre of the
western coast of Florida.
Key West City is upon the
island of Key West, off the southern
extremity of the peninsula, occupying the
important post of key to the Gulf passage.
89
[KEY WEST CITY.
|
a steamer fortnightly from Pier 9, East
River, N. Y., for Appalachicola and Key
West (Bonner & Brown, 113 Wall Street,
Agents). A railway now extends from
Fernandina, on the Atlantic coast, south-
westerly across the peninsula, to Cedar
Keys on the Gulf of Mexico; stage lines di-
verge to various points in the interior. The
Pensacola and Georgia Railway will cross
the upper part of the State from Jackson
west to Tallahassee. This route is at
present in operation 25 miles from Talla-
hassee to Monticello. Other lines will
soon connect Tallahassee with Pensacola,
The
and with Savannah, Macon, etc.
best time to go to Florida (east coast),
either for health or pleasure, is from the
1st of January to the 1st of April.
FLORIDA.
KEY WEST CITY.]
It was first settled in 1822, and is now
the most populous city of Florida, having
a population of about 3,000. It is a mili-
tary station of the United States. Some
30,000 bushels of salt are annually made
at Key West, by solar evaporation.
Great quantities of sponges, too, are
found and exported; but the chief busi-
ness of the island accrues from the sal-
vages upon the wrecks cast upon the
coast. Forty or fifty vessels are every
year lost in the vicinity, by which the
island profits to the amount of $200,000.
The Marine Hospital here, 100 feet long,
is a noteworthy building. Fort Taylor,
a strong and costly post, defends the har-
bor. The Charleston and Havana steam-
ers touch at Key West once a week.
The "Florida Steamship Line" despatch
|
90
ALABAMA.]
#
ALABAMA.
A
|
|
THIS State, though hitherto little visited
by tourists and pleasure-seekers, either
from the North or South, forms never-
theless an interesting field of adventure,
as well as an important link of communi-
cation in making the grand tour of the
South. From the North it is most readily
and expeditiously reached by way of
Washington, Lynchburg, Knoxville, and
Atlanta. The route by Savannah, Macon,
Columbus, and Montgomery is, however,
the most pleasant, as combining both sea
and land travel. Travellers from New
Orleans and Mobile can reach Montgom-
ery, the State capital, either by boat up
the Alabama River, or by railway from
Mobile. The history of this State is in-
volved in some obscurity. It is supposed
that it was first visited by white men in
1541, when the troops of De Soto passed
through it on their memorable exploring
expedition to the great Mississippi. In
1702 a fort was erected in Mobile Bay by
a Frenchman named Bienville, and nine
years later the present site of the city of
Mobile was occupied At the peace of
1763 this territory passed into the pos-
session of the English, with all the French
possessions (except New Orleans) east of
the Mississippi. Until 1802 Alabama
was included in the domain of Georgia,
and after 1802 and up to 1817 it was a
part of the Mississippi Territory. At
that period it was formed into a distinct
government, and was admitted in 1819
into the Union as an independent State.
The natural beauties of Alabama, except-
ing in the peculiar features of the south
ern lowlands seen near the coast, are not
of such marked interest to the tourist as
the landscape of many other States. In
the upper region are the extreme southern
outposts of the great Appalachian hill
ranges; but, as if wearied with all their
|
[ALABAMA.
ALABAMA.
|
|
long journey, they here droop their once
bold heads and fall to sleep, willing, per-
haps, to accept the poetical signification
of the name of the new territory into
which they now enter-Alabama, Here we
rest. While the upper portion of the
State is thus rude and hilly, the central
falls into fertile prairie reaches. The ex-
treme southern edge for fifty or sixty
miles from the gulf is sometimes a sandy,
sometimes a rich alluvial plain. The cli-
mate, like that of most of the Southern
States, varies from the characteristics of
the tropics below, through all the inter-
mediate degrees, to the salubrious and in-
vigorating air of the mountain lands
above. The chief agricultural product
of Alabama is cotton, of which great sta-
ple it yielded, before the war, more than
any other State in the Union. Extensive
canebrakes once existed, but they have
been greatly cleared away. Sugar-cane
grows on the southwest neck, between
Mobile and the Mississippi. Many of the
rich alluvial tracts yield rice abundantly.
Tobacco, also, is produced. Indian corn,
oats, sweet potatoes, buckwheat, barley,
flax, and silk, are much cultivated, besides
many other grains, fruits, and vegetables,
and large supplies of live stock of all de-
scriptions. Alabama is rich in minerals;
deposits of coal, iron, variegated marbles,
limestone, and other treasures, being ex-
tensively found within her borders. Gold
mines, too, have been found and worked.
Salt, sulphur, and chalybeate springs
abound. The State is divided into fifty-two
counties, and contains a white population
of nearly half a million. Montgomery, the
capital, is a growing city; the principal
commercial towns are Mobile, Tuscaloosa,
Huntsville, and Selma.
|
RIVERS.-The Alabama is the principal
91
RAILWAYS.]
river of the State. It is formed by the
Coosa and Tallapoosa, which unite about
ten miles north of Montgomery. About 45
miles above Mobile it is joined by the
Tombigbee, and the united waters are
thence known as the Mobile River. The
Alabama is navigable for large steamers
through its whole course of 460 miles,
from the city of Mobile to Wetumpka.
Between these points there are upwards
of two hundred landings. It flows through
a country of rich cotton-fields, broad
savanna lands, and dense forest tracts.
The trip down the Alabama, from Mont-
gomery to Mobile, during the cotton-
shipping season (December to March),
forms one of the most interesting and
exciting experiences of the Southern trav-
eller.
ALABAMA.
The Tombigbee River flows 450 miles
from the northeast corner of Mississippi,
first to Demopolis, where it unites with the
Black Warrior, and thence to the Alabama
River, about 45 miles above Mobile. Its
course is through fertile savanna lands,
occupied by cotton plantations. Aber-
deen, Columbus, Pickensville, Gainesville,
and Demopolis, are upon its banks. Large
steamboats ascend 416 miles to Columbus.
The Black Warrior River unites at
Demopolis with the Tombigbee (see Tom-
bigbee, above). Tuscaloosa, the capital of
the State, is upon its banks. To this point
large steamboats regularly ascend, 413
miles from Mobile. The Indian name of
this river was Tuscaloosa, and it is still
thus sometimes called.
The Chattahoochee forms a part of the
eastern boundary of the State. (See
Georgia.)
The Tennessee flows for 130 miles of its
course through northern Alabama (see
Muscle Shoals). The remaining rivers
worthy of mention are the Cahawba,
Escambia, Blackwater, Yellowwater, and
Choctawhatchee.
RAILWAYS.-The Mobile and Ohio Rail-
way to Corinth and Jackson, Miss., Co-
lumbus, Kentucky, 472 miles, and thence
by steamer to Cairo, Illinois, where it
connects with the Illinois Central to Chi-
cago, and all points North, East, and
West.
[MOBILE.
and thence 50 miles to Pollard, where it
connects with the Alabama and Forida
Railway to Montgomery, etc. A branch
is in course of construction to Pensacola,
Florida.
The Memphis and Charleston Railway
from Memphis, Tenn., via Corinth (93
miles), Tuscumbia (145), Decatur (188),
Huntsville (212), to Stevenson (272 miles),
and thence by the Nashville and Chatta-
nooga Railway to Chattanooga, and the
East and Northeast.
The Mobile and Great Northern Rail-
way. Steam ferry, 22 miles, to Tensas,
The Montgomery and West Point Rail-
way from Montgomery, 88 miles to West
Point, and thence 87 miles to Atlanta.
The Alabama and Tennessee River
Railway, 110 miles from Selma to Tal-
ladega. Steamers from Selma to Mobile.
Shelby Springs on this route.
The Alabama and Mississippi River
Railway from Selma 30 miles to Union-
town, and thence by stage to Demopolis
and Lauderdale Springs.
The Pensacola and Georgia Railway is
in operation between Lake City and
Quincy. It will eventually extend between
Pensacola and Tallahassee, Florida.
The Mobile and Girard Railway will
traverse the State from Columbus, Ga., to
Mobile. Completed from Montgomery 47
miles to Chunnuggec.
MOBILE.
165 miles from New Orleans; 197 from
Montgomery.
Mobile was founded by the French in
1699, and was ceded by that nation to Eng-
land in 1763. To Lemoin D'Iberville, who
has not inaptly been called the "father
of Southern colonization," justly belongs
the credit of founding the city. Historians,
however, differ as to the precise date of
the foundation. In 1780 England sur-
rendered it to Spain, and that Government
made it over to the United States in 1813.
It was incorporated as a city in December
1819, the population numbering about 800
souls. It was one of the last points in the
Confederacy occupied by Union forces
during the late war. This event took
place April 12th, 1865. An explosion,
which took place in the north end of the
city on the 25th May following the occu-
pation, destroyed twelve entire squares
}
92
MOBILE.]
|
of buildings, besides doing much damage
in adjacent portions of the city. The
city is pleasantly situated on a level, sandy
plain which rises on the west bank of the
Mobile River, immediately above its en-
trance into the bay, and thirty miles from
the Gulf of Mexico. The city extends
along the river bank upwards of two
miles east and west, and nearly three
miles north and south, and is divided into
seven wards. Population about 35,000.
The plateau is elevated 15 feet above the
highest tides, and commands a fine view
of the river and bay, from which it receives
refreshing breezes. The numerous ob-
structions and shallowness of the channel
at low water render navigation not only
difficult but hazardous for vessels drawing
more than seven feet of water. They
cannot come directly up the bay to the
city, but pass up Spanish River six miles
round a marshy island into Mobile River,
and down this a short distance to the
wharves. As a cotton mart and place of
export for this great staple, Mobile ranks
next in importance to New Orleans. In
1850 the tonnage of the port was upwards
of 25,000 tons; in 1860 it had increased
to 37,000. The city is supplied with ex-
cellent water, brought a distance of two
miles, and thence distributed through the
city. On Mobile Point is a lighthouse,
the lantern of which is 55 feet above the
sea level. Fort Morgan (formerly Fort
Bower), and Fort James, opposite Dau-
phin Island, mounting 69 guns at the
time of the attack, command the entrance
of the hrrbor. Spanish Fort, and Fort
Blakely, and Batteries Gladden, Tracy,
McIntosh, and Huger are passed on the
way up the Tensas River from Mobile to
Pollard and Montgomery. Large numbers
of sailing vessels ply between Mobile and
New Orleans, the ports on the Gulf of
Mexico, and the Atlantic coast. A daily
line of steamers run to New Orleans by
way of Lakes Borgne and Pontchartrain;
likewise up the Alabama River to Mont-
gomery and other points.
Mobile has many fine private residences,
but few buildings of a public character
which would interest the visitor. Cotton
is still king in Alabama; and Mobile, as
her chief city and commercial emporium,
is mainly devoted to the receipt, storage,
and shipment of this wonderful product.
[MOBILE.
Government Street is the finest avenue
and favorite promenade of the city.
Public Square, between Dauphin and St.
Francis Streets, is also a place of much
resort. Both are adorned with live oaks
and other shade-trees. The lofty dome
of the Academy building, and the spires
of the several church edifices on Govern-
ment Street, afford a pleasing relief to the
eye accustomed to dwell upon the dark-
green foliage of the oak-trees which shade
its whole length. The building at the in-
tersection of Government with Dearborn
Street, the property of Mr. Emanuel, is at
present occupied as the headquarters of
the District Commandant. The Custom
House, at the corner of Royal and St.
Francis Streets, is the most costly
public edifice in the city. It is built
of marble, and cost $250,000. The
Theatre, Municipal Buildings, and Mar-
kets are on Royal Street. The Battle
House, the largest hotel in the city, pre-
sents an imposing façade of white marble,
immediately facing the Custom House.
The somewhat imposing ruin on the west
side of Royal Street, nearly opposite the
city market, marks the site of the Court
House destroyed by fire during the war.
Odd Fellows' Hall, on Royal Street, and
Temperance Hall, corner of St. Michael
and St. Joseph Streets, are conspicuous
buildings.
Among the religious and charitable insti-
tutions of Mobile the most prominent are
the Catholic Cathedral (Immaculate Con-
ception), on Claiborne Street, between
Dauphin and Conti Streets; Christ
Church (Episcopal), northwest corner of
Church and St. Emanuel Streets; First
Presbyterian Church, northwest corner
of Government and Jackson Streets; and
the Catholic Male and Female and Prot-
estant Orphan Asylums, all situated
within a short distance of the business
portion of the city. Mobile possesses
fourteen public schools, and a large num-
ber of benevolent and other societies.
Mobile College, on Government near Ann
Street, is a flourishing institution. M.
Saucier, at No. 96 Dauphin Street, exe-
cutes excellent photographic views.
ALABAMA.
Spring Hill is a pleasant suburb and re-
treat six miles west of the city. The Roman
Catholic College; commenced in 1832 un-
der the direction of Bishop M. Portier, is
93
1
MONTGOMERY.]
located here. The former building was
123 feet in length, surmounted by a tower.
Two additions, each 126 feet in length,
have since been added, making the entire
length 375 feet. It contains a library of
nearly 8,000 volumes, and a valuable col-
lection of instruments, etc. A statue of the
Virgin Mary, brought from Toulouse,
France, stands in the rear of the building.
The institution is under the management
of the Jesuits, and has accommodation for
upwards of 200 students. It is reached
by the St. Francis Street cars.
The Gulf Shell road affords a pleasant
drive. The city possesses several good
restaurants; that conducted by M. Ed.
Denechaud, No. 17 Royal Street, immedi-
ately west of the Custom House, is the
best. The Battle House is the leading
hotel, almost the only one worthy the
name; a good hotel being among the
many "wants" of the city. The City
Baths are reached from Royal and Conti
Streets. Trains leave Mobile daily over
the Great Northern Railway for Mont-
gomery, and over the Mobile and Ohio
Railway for all points north and west.
Daily steamers for New Orleans; also for
Montgomery, Columbus, and Aberdeen,
Mississippi.
•
ALABAMA.
Montgomery.-197 miles, by rail,
from Mobile; 839 from Washington.
HOTELS. The Exchange is a well-kept
house, centrally located for business
travel. The Central has been enlarged
and refurnished.
Montgomery, the capital, and second
city of Alabama in population and trade,
is situated on the Alabama River, 400
miles by water northeast of Mobile. It
was laid out in 1817, by Andrew Dexter,
of Boston, and was formerly known as
New Philadelphia. The State capital was
moved here from Tuscaloosa, in 1847.
It was named Montgomery after the la-
mented General Richard Montgomery,
who fell at Quebec. The original State
House was destroyed by fire 14th Decem-
ber, 1849, and the present structure
erected in 1851, at a cost of about $75,-
000. It occupies an elevated position on
Capitol Hill, at the head of Market Street,
four squares east of the Court Square,
and though of small size, is an imposing
structure. From the gallery of the dome,
which surmounts the roof, an extended
[SELMA.
view of the city and adjacent country is
obtained. Considerable interest attaches
to Montgomery as the capital of the Con-
federate Government during four months,
commencing 4th February, 1861, and ter-
minating with its final removal to Rich-
mond, in May of the same year. The
city has suffered severely by fire; first,
in December, 1838, and again on the oc-
casion of the rebel evacuation of the
town, 11th April, 1865, when the cotton
warehouses, containing 80,000 bales of
cotton, were destroyed. Seven days after-
wards the arsenal, railway depots, and
foundry were destroyed by Federal troops.
Next the Capitol, the prominent buildings
are the Episcopal, Baptist, and Presby-
terian churches, Theatre building, Court
House, and Exchange Hotel, besides sev-
eral private residences. The city is lighted
with gas, and supplied with good water
from Artesian wells in the centre of the
city. Population 10,000, and increasing.
Two miles southeast of the city commen-
ces what is known as the prairie region.
Montgomery is connected directly by
river and rail with Mobile and New Or-
leans; also by rail with Atlanta, Colum-
bus, and all points north and cast. The
city is surrounded by a cordon of small
earthworks, erected in 1864, and known
as the defences of Montgomery.
Selma, in Dallas County, is located
on the Alabama River, 70 miles below
Montgomery. The Alabama and Tennessee
River and Alabama and Mississippi River
Railways meet at this point. It is reached
from Montgomery by boat on the Alaba-
ma River, the road not being in operation
east of Selma. Population 6,000.
Opelika is in Russell County, at
the intersection of the Montgomery and
West Point and Columbus Branch Rail-
ways. It is distant from Montgomery 65
miles, from Atlanta 109 miles, and from
Columbus 28 miles; population 1,500.
The Talladega Railway is graded 40 miles
from this point. The Sledge House has
accommodation for travellers.
|
Tuscaloosa. HOTEL, Mansion
House.
Tuscaloosa is upon the Black Warrior
River, at the head of steamboat naviga-
tion, 125 miles by plank road from Mont-
gomery. It is one of the principal towns
of Alabama, and was once the capital.
!
94
i
FLORENCE.
ALABAMA.
It is the seat of the University of Alaba- |
ma, established 1831. The University
buildings are beautifully situated half a
mile from the river; they are extensive,
and cost $150,000. The State Lunatic
Asylum and a United States Land Office
are located here also. Population about
4,000. The route from Tuscaloosa to
Tuscumbia is by stage. To New Lexing-
ton, 24; Eldridge, 51; Thorn Hill, 73;
Russelville, 103; Tuscumbia, 111 miles.
Tuscumbia, on the Memphis and
Charleston Railway, 145 miles east of
Memphis, is a thriving town, one mile
south of the Tennessee River. Steam-
boats from Louisville and Cincinnati, on
the Ohio, ascend the Tennessee River as
far as Tuscumbia in good stages of water.
Here is one of the largest and best springs
of water in the State.
Florence,
five miles from Tuscum-
bia, is reached by a branch railway. It
is considered the head of navigation on
the Tennessee River, although boats ply
above the Muscle Shoals. The fine bridge
across the river at this point, which cost
$150,000, was destroyed during the late
war. The Muscle Shoals are an extensive
series of rapids. The descent of the water
here is 100 feet in the course of 20 miles.
The neighborhood is a famous resort of
wild ducks and geese, which come in
great flocks in search of the shell-fish,
from which the rapids derive their name.
Boats cannot pass this part of the Ten-
nessee except at times of very high water.
A canal was once built around the shoals,
but it has been abandoned, and is falling
into decay.
|
[THE HILL REGION.
which are the Court House, U. S. Land
Office, Female Seminary, and Bank. From
Tuscaloosa the route thither is by stage.
To McRath's, 32; Jonesboro', 44; Elyton,
56; Mount Pinson, 70; Blountsville, 96;
Oleander, 120; Lacy Springs,
132;
Whitesburg, 139; Huntsville, 149.
The Hill Region.-The upper part
of
Alabama is picturesquely broken by the
Alleghanies, which end their long journey
hereabouts. In the northeast extremity
of the State there are many fine land-
scape passages. The Nickajack Cave en-
ters the Raccoon Mountain a few miles
above Chattanooga and the Lookout
Mountain, Tennessee, and immediately
finds its way into Georgia. A magnificent
rocky arch of some eighty feet span forms
the mouth of the cavern, high up in the
mountain-side. This cave is said to have
been the headquarters of the leader of a
band of negroes. He was known by the
name of "Nigger Jack," hence the
name of the cave. The Natural Bridge,
in Walker County, is thought by some
travellers to be more curious than the
celebrated scene of the same kind in
Virginia. Mineral Springs abound in
the upper part of Alabama. The Blount
Springs, in Blount County, near the
Black Warrior River, are much resorted
to; so also are the Bladen Springs, in
Choctaw County, in the western part
of the State, near the line of the Mobile
and Ohio Railway. In Franklin County
(see Tuscumbia) is a spring which dis-
charges 20,000 cubic feet of water per
minute. It forms a considerable brook,
which enters the Tennessee 24 miles be-
low. There are valuable sulphur springs
in Shelby and Talladega Counties. The
route to the Shelby Springs is via Colum-
biana, on the Alabama and Tennessee
River Railway.
95
Huntsville is a beautiful moun-
tain town on the Memphis and Charleston
Railway, 212 miles east of Memphis, and
97 miles west of Chattanooga. It con-
tains a few handsome buildings, among
{
MISSISSIPPI.]
MISSISSIPPI.
MISSISSIPPI.
MISSISSIPPI, like Alabama, was first
visited by Europeans at the time (1541)
when the Spanish expedition bore the
banner of De Soto through the great
belt of forest swamps which lie upon
the Mexican Gulf, from the palm-covered
plains of Florida on the east, to the far-
off floods of the mighty "Father of Wa-
ters," on the west. The enmity of the
Indians and other obstacles prevented
any permanent occupation of the new
country at this period. In 1682 La Salle
descended the Mississippi River, and vis-
ited the territory now embraced in this
State. Two years after, he set out again
for the region, with a resolute band of
colonists, but the venture failed before it
was fairly begun, various misfortunes pre-
venting his ever reaching his destination.
Iberville, a Frenchman, made the third
attempt at a settlement, but with no bet-
ter success than his predecessors met
with. A beginning was, however, at
length accomplished by Bienville and a
party of Frenchmen. This expedition
settled in 1716 at Fort Rosalie, now the
city of Natchez. A dozen years later
(1728), a terrible massacre of the new-
comers was made by their jealous Indian
neighbors, which checked, but yet did not
stay, the "
course of empire." Other
sanguinary conflicts with the aborigines
took place in 1736, '39, and '52, with the
same final result-the defeat and devas-
tation of the Indian tribes, and the tri-
umph of the invading whites. The ter-
ritory fell into the possession of the Brit-
ish crown upon the conclusion of the
peace of Paris, in 1763. The strength
of the new colony was augmented about
this period by portions of the dispersed
Acadian communities of Nova Scotia;
and soon after by colonists from the New
England territories, by way of the Mis-
[MISSISSIPPI.
sissippi and Ohio Rivers. In 1798 the
colony was organized as a Territory, Ala-
bama forming a portion thereof. The
history of Mississippi, as a State, began
December 10, 1817. This State stands
third in the order of seccssion from the
United States. This event transpired
January 9, 1861.
Much of the area of Mississippi is occu-
pied by swamp and marsh tracts. There is
within her territory, between the mouth
of the Yazoo River and Memphis, in Ten-
nessee, a stretch of this description, cover-
ing an area of nearly 7,000 square miles.
It is sometimes a few miles broad, and
sometimes not less than a hundred. These
low portions of the State are subject to
inundation at the time of freshets, and
great is the cost and care necessary to
protect them, as well as all the lands of a
similar character lying along the Missis-
sippi. Banks (levées) are built along the
river shores to restrain the floods, but
sometimes a breach (crevasse) occurs, re-
sulting in great damage to property, and
no little risk to life. Where the country
is not thus occupied by swampy or
marshy stretches, it sweeps away in
broad table-lands, shaped into grand ter-
races, or steps, descending from the east-
ward to the waters of the river. The
steps are formed by two ranges of bluffs,
which sometimes extend to the river
shores, and rise abruptly in precipices of
fifty and even a hundred feet perpendicu-
lar height. These bluffs are features of
great and novel attraction to the voyager
on the Mississippi River. The climate of
Mississippi has the same general charac
teristics as the other Southern States,
passing from the temperatures of the
torrid zone, southward, to more temper-
ate airs above; unlike Alabama, however,
and the Southeastern States of Georgia
96
RIVERS.]
[JACKSON.
and Carolina, it has no bold mountain | sippi. The Tallahatchee, the largest branch
lands within its area. The winters here of the Yazoo, has a length almost as great
and in the neighboring State of Louisiana as that river, 100 miles of which may
have a temperature a few degrees lower be traversed by steamers. The Big Black
than that of the same latitudes near River is some 200 miles long. Its course
the Atlantic. The fig and the orange is much the same as that of the Yazoo,
grow well in the lower part of the State, as also the character of the country which
and the apple flourishes in the higher it traverses.
The Pearl River pursues a
hilly regions. Cotton is the great staple devious course from the northeast part
of Mississippi, the State being the third of the State, 250 miles, to Lake Borgne,
in the Union in this product. The soil is and thence to the Gulf of Mexico. Jack-
well adapted to the growth of Indian corn, son, the capital of the State, is upon the
tobacco, hemp, flax, silk, and all species Pearl River, southwest of the central re-
of grains and grasses. Live stock is also gion. Small boats sometimes ascend the
raised to a considerable extent. Missis-river as far as this place, though the nav-
igation is almost destroyed by the ac-
cumulation of sand-bars and drift-wood.
|
MISSISSIPPI
|
sippi has no very extensive mineral prod-
ucts; or, if she has, they have not as
yet been developed. Some gold has been
found, but in no important quantity.
Most of the water courses here are tribu-
taries of the Mississippi. They run chiefly
in a southwest direction, following the
general slope of the country. Some lesser
waters, in the eastern sections, find their
way to the Gulf of Mexico, as tributaries
of the Pearl River, in the centre of the
State, and of the Tombigbee and Pasca-
goula, in Eastern Mississippi and Western
Alabama. The Yazoo and the Big Black
Rivers drain the northwest portion of the
State, and are the largest tributaries of
the Mississippi from this State. Among
the principal resorts for tourists are Coop-
er's Wells, in Hinds County, 12 miles
west of Jackson, and Lauderdale Springs,
18 miles north of Meridian, both of
which have valuable medicinal properties.
The State is divided into sixty counties.
Vicksburg, Natchez, Columbus, and Jack-road
son are the largest towns. The white
population before the war amounted to
353,899.
RIVERS.—The Yazoo River is formed by
the Tallahatchee and Yallabusha Rivers,
which unite at Leflore, in Carroll County.
It is a deep and narrow stream, and slug-
gish in its movements. It is nearly three
hundred miles in length, exclusive of its
branches, and is navigable for steamboats
in all its course, and at all seasons, from
its mouth to its sources. Its way leads
through great alluvial plains of extreme
fertility, covered everywhere by luxuriant
cotton-fields. Vicksburg is twelve miles be-
low the union of the Yazoo with the Missis-
5
RAILWAYS.-The Mobile and Ohio Rail
way extends first along the western edge
of Alabama, and afterwards near the
eastern line of Mississippi, northward
from the city of Mobile, Alabama, through
Meridian, Okolona, Corinth, and Jackson,
Tennessee, 472 miles to Columbus, Ken-
tucky. The Southern Mississippi extends
at present eastward from Jackson, the
capital of the State, 96 miles to Meridian,
and westward 44 miles to Vicksburg.
The Mississippi and Tennessee extends
southward from Memphis 99 miles to
Granada, from whence it is continued by
the Mississippi Central, and the New Or-
leans, Jackson, and Great Northern road
to New Orleans. The Mississippi Central
Railway, from Jackson, Tennessee, 237
miles, south to Canton, Mississippi. At
Jackson it meets the Mobile and Ohio
north from Mobile, and at Canton it
is continued southward by the New Or-
leans and Great Northern Railway to
New Orleans. The New Orleans, Jackson,
and Great Northern Railway, from New
Orleans 206 miles north to Canton, Mis-
sissippi, and thence by the Mississippi
Central and connections north and east.
Grenada.-HOTEL, Shenkle House.
This town is pleasantly situated at the
head of steamboat navigation on the
Yallabusha River. It is 100 miles south
of Memphis. The Mississippi and Ten-
nessee and the Mississippi Central Rail-
ways unite here.
ways unite here. Population, 2,000.
Jackson.-HOTEL, Bowman
House. Jackson, the capital of Mississippi,
is upon the Pearl River, southwest of the
97
NATCHEZ.]
|
centre of the State. It is connected by
railway, 44 miles, with Vicksburg, on
the Mississippi River. The Southern
Mississippi road extends 95 miles east of
Jackson, to Meridian. The State Capitol,
Executive Mansion, the Penitentiary,
Lunatic Asylum, and a United States
Land Office, are the most prominent
buildings. Population, about 6,000.
Cooper's Well, 12 miles west of Jackson,
is noted for its mineral waters.
MISSISSIPPI.
Holly Springs, 188 miles north
of Jackson, and 25 miles north of Grand
Junction, is a beautiful village, distin-
guished not less for the excellence of its
schools than for the hospitality of its
inhabitants. The Chalmers Institute
and St. Thomas' Hall for boys, the Frank-
Natchez.-HOTEL, Mansion House. lin Female College, and the Holly Springs
Natchez, on the Mississippi River, 279 Female Institute, are among the most
miles above New Orleans, is the most conspicuous institutions. Being on the
populous and commercial city in the main through line of travel between New
State. It is built upon a bluff, 200 feet Orleans and the North, and near the line
above the water, overlooking the great of the Memphis and Charleston Railway
cypress swamps of Louisiana. The lower (Grand Junction), it is a most advanta-
part of the town, where the heavy ship-geous point for tourists to stay and make
ping business is done, is called Natchez- up their routes. The vicinity abounds
under-the-Hill. In Seltzertown, near Nat-- in attractive scenery and pleasant drives.
chez, there is a remarkable group of It was the scene of active operations
ancient mounds, one of which is 35 feet during the late war. The city was occu-
high. Smaller remains of the kind are pied by Union troops from General Hal-
found yet nearer the town. The broken leck's army, June 17, 1862. On the 20th
and varied character of the country about December, the post, under the command
Natchez is in most agreeable contrast of Colonel Murphy, surrendered to Gen-
with the flat lands on the opposite side of eral Van Dorn, of the rebel army. The
the river. The streets are wide and regu- Lauderdale Springs, sulphur and chalyb-
lar, and, to a great extent, elegantly built. eate, are in Lauderdale County, near the
The public edifices are well constructed, line of the Mobile and Ohio Railway, 18
and the private mansions are pleasant- miles north of Meridian. The State Or-
ly surrounded with trees and gardens. phan Home, for the support and education
The town is the centre of an extensive of the poor children of deceased Confed-
trade, continually upon the increase. The erate soldiers, in course of erection, is
Court House, Orphan Asylum, and Ma- situated on the Mobile and Ohio Railway,
sonic Hall, are fine buildings. Steamers. 18 miles above Meridian.
ply daily between this and all points on
the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers.
Canton, 206 miles north of New
Orleans, 187 south of Memphis, is a
thriving place. It is the county seat of
Madison County.
Vicksburg.
HOTEL, Prentiss
▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
[HOLLY SPRINGS.
means of the Vicksburg, Shreveport, and
Texas Railway. The city was captured
from the rebels, after a protracted siege,
by General Grant, July 4, 1863.
House.
Vicksburg is upon the Mississippi, 400
miles above New Orleans, and 444 miles
from Jackson, the capital of the State.
Population, about 4,000. The site is
The site is
elevated and commands a fine view of the
Mississippi River. Next to Natchez, it is
the most thriving commercial point be-
tween New Orleans and Memphis. West-
ward it has railroad communications by
Columbus is on the left bank of
the Tombigbee River, 60 miles south of
Aberdeen, and 145 miles northeast of
Jackson. Regular steamboat communi-
cation with Mobile. Population 3,500.
A branch railway extends southwest to
Artesia, on the Mobile and Ohio Railway,
219 miles north of Mobile.
Aberdeen, a town of some 4,000
inhabitants, is upon the Tombigbee River,
165 miles northeast of Jackson, 60 north
of Columbus, and 470 from Mobile, by
water. Steamboats ply regularly from
Mobile. It is reached from the Mobile
and Ohio Railway Junction via Gainesville,
8 miles distant.
98
LOUISIANA.]
LOUISIANA.
LOUISIANA.
LOUISIANA is one of the most interest
ing States in the Union, not only on ac-
count of the romantic incidents of its
early history, but for the peculiar features
of its landscape, and its unique social
character and life.
The traveller, looking upon the face of
the Great River, will recall the bright
hopes of De Soto, when he, too, so gazed
with delighted wonder; then he will muse
upon that hapless destiny which gave the
gallant explorer a grave beneath the very
floods which he was the first to find and
enter, with such exultant anticipations.
Then he will remember the visit of La
Salle to the mouth of the river, in 1691—
next, the attempted settlement, in 1699,
under the brave lead of Iberville; then
comes the enterprise of Crozart, to whom
the country was granted by Louis XIV.,
in 1712; next comes its history from
1717, while in possession of the famous
French financier John Law, and his com-
pany of rash speculators, with all the in-
cidents of the story of the brilliant but
fleeting "Mississippi Bubble; next the
restoration of the territory to the French
Crown, its transfer to Spain in 1762, its
retrocession to France in 1800, and its
final acquisition by the United States in
1803, when this Government purchased it
for $11,500,000, and the further payment
of certain claims of American citizens
against the Government of France. Of
the history of this State in its participa-
tion in our national trials, and especially
of the memarable event of the battle of
New Orleans, and its still more recent oc-
cupation by the Federal forces under
Gen. Butler, we shall speak by and by
Louisiana in no part of its territory
reaches a greater elevation than 200 feet
above the level of the Gulf of Mexico,
while very much of the Southern region
""
[LOUISIANA
| is so low that it becomes inundated at
high water. Marshes extend from the
coast; next come the low prairie lands
which approach the central parts of the
State; above, the country west of the
basin of the Mississippi grows broken and
hilly. In the extreme northwest is a
marshy tract of fifty miles in length and
six in breadth, full of small lakes, made
by the interlacings of the arms of Red
River. It is estimated that an area of
between eight and nine thousand square
miles, lying respectively upon the Missis-
sippi and Red Rivers, is subject to inun-
dation annually.
About three-fifths of the whole area of
the State is alluvial and diluvial; the rest
is occupied by the tertiary formation, and
contains coal and iron, ochre, salt, gyp-
sum, and marl. In the vicinity of Har-
risonburg, near the northeastern line of·
the State, and among the freestone hills
which rise hereabouts precipitously to a
height of eighty and one hundred feet,
large quartz crystals have been found,
and quantities of jasper, agates, corne-
lians, sardonyx, onyx, feldspar, crystal-
ized gypsum, alumine, chalcedony, lava,
meteoric stones, and fossils.
The exhalations from the marshes in
the long, hot summers affect the atmos-
phere, and make these districts not only
unapproachable to strangers, but danger-
ous to the acclimated, at the season when
the especial features of the landscape may
be seen in their greatest glory.
Cotton and sugar-cane are the great
products of this State. Of the latter sta-
ple, it yielded in 1850 nine-tenths of the
whole supply raised in the United States.
The most productive district of the State
is a belt of land called the "Coast," lying
up and down the Mississippi in the neigh-
borhood of New Orleans. It consists of
99
NEW ORLEANS.]
that part of the bottom, or alluvion, of
the Mississippi, which commences with
the first cultivation above the Balize,
about forty miles below the capital, and
extends about one hundred and fifty miles
above it.
LOUISIANA.
This belt on each side of the river is
secured from overflow by an embankment
called the "levee." We shall have occa-
sion to speak of it in our explorations
through the city.
The bays and lakes, formed by expan-
sions of the rivers in the marsh lands
near the coast, make a marked feature
in the landscape of Louisiana, as Lakes
Pontchartrain, Borgne, Maurepas, etc.
Some of these waters we shall recur to
again when we reach New Orleans.
Except the Mississippi and the Red
Rivers, of which the reader will find ac-
counts elsewhere in our volume, the
streams in Louisiana do not offer very
great attractions to the traveller.
NEW ORLEANS.
1,653 miles from New York; 1,435 from
Washington.
New Orleans, the metropolis of the
Southwest, is built within a great bend of
the Mississippi River (whence its familiar
name of the Crescent City), ninety-four
miles from its debouchure into the Gulf of
Mexico, in latitude 29°57′ north, longitude
90° 8' west. It was named in honor of the
Duke of Orleans, Regent of France during
the minority of Louis XV. It was the
place selected for the seat of the mon-
archy meditated in the treason of Aaron
Burr. Great was the alarm of the citi-
zens in January, 1804, at that prospective
insurrection.
It is built on land gently descending
from the river toward a marshy ground
in the rear, and from two to four feet be-
low the level of the river at high-water
mark. It is prevented from overflowing
the city by an embankment of earth,
termed the Levee, which is substantially
constructed, for a great distance along
the banks of the river. This levee is fif-
teen feet wide and four feet high, and
forms a delightful promenade during the
fall and winter months. It is accessible
[NEW ORLEANS.
at all times by vessels of the largest de-
scription coming from the ocean, and its
advantages of communication with the
upper country, and the whole valley of
the Mississippi, are at once stupendous
and unrivalled. The site was selected by
Gov. Bienville in 1718, against much op-
position, the site having previously been
at Biloxi. It was abandoned in 1719, a
rise in the Mississippi having inundated
it. It was again selected by Delorme in
1722 as the principal post in the province.
It then consisted of about one hundred
cabins, and contained a population of
nearly two hundred and fifty. Louisiana
was ceded to the United States in 1803,
after which date the population of New
Orleans rapidly increased. In 1810 it
amounted to 24,552, having trebled in
seven years under the administration of
its new government.
We append a tabular statement, show-
ing the growth of population since that
time:
1815..... .32,947 | 1830. .49,826
1820... .41,350 1840. .102,191
1825.... .45,336 1850. ,160,000
1860.. ..187,000
..
••
•
......
··
This levee has been frequently broken
through by the river. In May, 1816, a
crevasse occurred about nine miles above
New Orleans, which destroyed several
plantations and inundated the rear of the
city to the depth of several feet: again in
June, 1844, and last in 1855. The dyke
or levee has been strengthened, and is
now believed to be strong enough to resist
further encroachment.
This city is the chief cotton mart of
the world. Not unfrequently from a
thousand to fifteen hundred steamers and
flatboats may be seen lying at the Levee,
that have floated down the stream hun-
dreds of miles with the rich produce of
the interior country. Steamboats of the
largest class may be observed arriving
and departing almost hourly; and, except
in the summer months, at its wharves
may be seen hundreds of ships and other
sailing craft from all quarters of the
globe, landing the productions of other
climes, and receiving cargoes of cotton,
sugar, tobacco, lumber, provisions, etc.
Indeed, nothing can present a more busy,
bustling scene than exists here in the
loading and unloading of vessels and
100

NEW ORLEANS.
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NEW ORLEANS.]
[NEW ORLEANS.
steamers, with hundreds of drays trans-up-river merchants and steamboat men.
porting the various and immense prod- The rates of fare at the St. Charles and
ucts which come hither from the West. St. Louis are $5 per day; at the St.
James and City $4.
LOUISIANA.
The receipts and exports of cotton
from New Orleans exceeded in the years
1859-'60 two millions and a quarter of
bales, the value of which exceeded one
hundred millions of dollars. Besides cot-
ton, a vast amount of other products, as
sugar, tobacco, flour, pork, etc., are re-
ceived at New Orleans, and thence sent
abroad. The total value of these prod-
ucts for the year ending Sept. 1, 1859,
amounted to $172,952,664. Besides its
exports, New Orleans has a large import
trade of coffee, salt, sugar, iron, dry-
goods, liquors, etc., the yearly value of
which exceeds $17,000,000.
The ordinance of secession was passed
by the State Legislature Jan. 26, 1861.
On April of the following year Forts
Jackson and St. Philip were successfully
passed by Rear-Admiral Farragut, who
arrived before the city on the 29th of the
same month. On the 1st of May, 1862,
General B. F. Butler landed and took
•
possession of the city.
HOTELS.—The St. Charles, bounded by
St. Charles, Gravier, and Common Streets,
is one of the institutions of New Orleans.
Destroyed by fire in 1850, it was
built by the close of 1852 at a cost of
$600,000. Its predecessor, the old St.
Charles, was long regarded as the pride
of New Orleans. The present structure
has accommodation for nearly 1,000
guests. O. E. Hall proprietor.
The St. Louis, formerly known as the
City Exchange, is located on St. Louis
between Royal and Chartres, in the French
quarter of the city. It was reopened
January 10, 1866, with new furniture,
after being closed nearly four years, and
is now in the full tide of business again.
It holds the same high rank as the St.
Charles, and is under the same proprietor-
ship.
PLACES OF AMUSEMENT-THEATRES,
ETC.-New Orleans is well supplied with
public amusements, these being esteemed
as among the first of human necessities.
The Opera House, corner of Bourbon
and Toulouse Streets, erected in 1859, is
an imposing edifice. It has seats for
two thousand, and is fitted up in the
style of the Theatre Française, Paris.
The St. Charles, on St. Charles be-
tween Poydras and Perdido Streets,
occupies the site of the former St.
Charles, destroyed by fire in 1842. Ben.
De Bar lessee.
(6
Orleans Theatre, corner of Orleans
and Bourbon Streets. This is the oldest
Temple of the Drama" in the city, if
not in the South. It was opened in No-
vember, 1819. The performances are in
the French language. It is frequently
re-used, together with the adjoining build-
ing, for balls, parties, etc.
The St. James, Magazine Street be-
tween Gravier and Natchez, occupies the
site of the old "Banks' Arcade," a place
of great public resort previous to 1858.
It has been recently repainted and fur-
nished, and has accommodation for 400
persons.
The City Hotel, corner of Camp and
Common Streets, is much frequented by
Academy of Music, St. Charles be-
tween Perdido and Commercial Streets,
built in 1853. Performances day and
night. Spalding & Bidwell proprietors.
Varieties, Gravier between Carondolet
and Baronne Streets.
The American, burnt July 30, 1842
;
rebuilt and reopened December 5, 1843,
and again destroyed by fire in 1854; has
not been rebuilt. It occupied a central
site on Poydras Street near Lafayette
Square, now covered by an ornamental
cast-iron building intended for business
purposes.
PUBLIC BUILDINGS.-The Custom House,
Canal Street near the Levee. This noble
structure is built of Quincy granite
brought from the celebrated quarries of
Massachusetts. Next to the National
Capitol at Washington, it is the largest
building in the United States. It covers
an area of 87,333 superficial feet. Its
main front, on Canal Street, is 334 feet
that on Custom House Street, 252 fect;
on the new Levee, 310 feet, and on the
old Levee, 297 feet. Its height is 82
feet. The long-room, or chief business
apartment, is 116 feet by 90 feet, and is
lighted by 50 windows. Commenced in
1848, the erection of this immense struc-
;
101
LOUISIANA.
NEW ORLEANS.]
|
ture was steadily prosecuted through four
successive administrations until the out-
break of the Rebellion, when work was
necessarily suspended. The building, it
The building, it
is much to be regretted, has suffered se-
verely from the weather and the various
uses to which it has been put. A tem-
porary roof has been lately added at a
cost of $25,000; but far from affording
adequate protection, it seems rather to
have proved a source of injury than oth-
erwise.
The basement of this building is ap-
propriated to the uses of the Post Office,
but being both dark and damp it is ill-
suited for such a purpose. The offices
of the Postmaster and Special Agent and
their deputies are on the right and left
of the Canal Street entrance. The long
corridors which surround the main apart-
ment in the second story, afford access to
the offices of the Collector and Surveyor
of the Port, the Collector and Assessor
of Internal Revenue, U. S. Marshal, and
other Government officers. The United
States courts are also located in this
building. It is noteworthy rather for its
immense size and the important interest
it represents than for any attraction of
its own.
[NEW ORLEANS.
Butler, June 7, 1862, is still pointed out.
It is under the front portico of the main
building, and will always be an object of
interest.
The City Hall, at the intersection of
St. Charles and Lafayette (formerly He-
via) Streets, fronting 90 feet on the former
and 208 feet on the latter, is a handsome
marble structure in the Grecian Ionic
style of architecture. The municipal
hall was formerly located on the upper
side of the cathedral in Jackson Square,
but that building being insufficient for
the rapidly increasing business of the
city, the present structure was erected
and finished in 1850, since which time it
has been occupied for city purposes.
Here are located the Mayor's office, the
bureaus of "Finance" and "Streets and
Landings," the offices of the Treasurer,
Comptroller, Street Commissioner, Regis-
ter, etc. It also serves at present as the
official beadquarters of the Governor and
Secretary of State. Lyceum Hall, in the
second story of this building, is a com-
modious apartment, 61 by 84 feet, well
adapted for the purpose intended. The
State and city libraries occupy suitable
rooms in the building. (See Libraries.)
The grand entrance from St. Charles
Street is by a flight of steps 18 in number,
of Quincy granite, of which material the
basement is constructed. Cost, $120,000.
Odd Fellows' Hall, a solid square edi-
fice on the corner of Camp and Lafayette
Streets, and immediately facing the upper
corner of the square. It is four stories
high, built of brick, stuccoed and painted
white, and cost $210,000. The base-
ment is occupied by stores.
On the sec-
ond, or main, floor is the concert hall,
the finest in the South. It is 132 by 56
feet and 35 feet high, and lighted by
three large chandeliers. The upper sto-
ries are used by the several lodges of
Masons and Odd Fellows.
The Mint (U. S. branch). The build-
ing formerly used for coining the public
moneys in New Orleans, and still known
as the Mint, is situated on what was
once called Jackson Square, near the
former site of Fort St. Charles, now
known as the corner of Esplanade and
New Levee Streets. It is built of brick,
stuccoed in imitation of brownstone, in
the Ionic style of architecture, and being
282 feet in length, 108 feet deep,
and three stories high, presents an im-
posing appearance. It was begun in
1835 and finished in 1837, at a cost of
$182,000. A visit to the coin room will
repay the stranger. On the 25th Janua-
ry, 1861, upwards of three quarters of a
million dollars were taken from this room
by a committee of citizens headed by
Governor Roman. The Superintendent,
M. F. Bonzano, succeeded in destroying
the dies, and thus saved the Government
and the country from the issue of spurious
money. The window from which the
flagstaff projected on which the rebel
Mumford was hung by order of General
|
The Masonic Hall, on St. Charles
Street, at its intersection with Perdido, is
an imposing elifice, fronting 103 feet on
the former and extending back 100 feet
on the latter street. It was designed
and built by Gallier, a local architect of
considerable repute, in 1845, and cost,
including the land, $90,000.
The Merchants' Exchange, on Royal,
south of Canal Street, was formerly a
102
NEW ORLEANS.]
[NEW ORLEANS.
place of great resort. Since the removal | tal, and afterwards by colored troops as
of the Post Office to the Custom House a barracks. It was destroyed by fire
building, its glory has departed, and it September 1st, 1865.
exists now in little more than name. It
was erected in 1835, from designs by
Dakin, is composed of marble, and cost
$100,000.
Among the prominent charities of the
city are, the Asylum of St. Elizabeth, cor-
ner of Magazine and Josephine Streets, and
the Maison de Santé, corner of Canal and
Claiborne Streets. Lady visitors especially
ought to see the interior of the former
institution. It is a very model of neat-
ness and good order. It was erected in
1853, and is under the charge of Supe-
rior Angelica and fourteen sisters.
LOUISIANA.
CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS.-There is
probably no city in the United States
which contains so many benevolent in-
stitutions, in proportion to its popula-
tion, as New Orleans. Among the most
prominent are the hospitals and male and
female orphan asylums.
The United States Marine Hospital, a
commodious brick edifice, corner Com-
mon and Broad Streets, in the rear of
the city proper, and easily reached by
street cars on Canal Street. The hospital
building was formerly located in Mac-
donough, opposite the city. It occupied
a whole square, measuring 350 feet each
way. It was three stories high, built in
the Gothic style, from designs by Mondale
and Reynolds. It was commenced in
1834, extended in 1844, and was used
for hospital purposes up to the breaking
out of the war, when, like many other
Government buildings, it suffered at the
hands of its enemies. It was used as a
powder magazine by the Confederate
authorities, and by them blown up.
Among the objects of interest in New
Orleans, especially worthy of notice, is-
The Charity Hospital, on Common
Street, between St. Mary's and Gironde.
It is conspicuous, not more for its great
size, than for the air of neatness and
comfort which prevails in and around it.
The first hospital for indigent persons es-
tablished in the city appears to have
stood on Rampart, near Toulouse Street.
It was constructed of wood, and was
blown down in 1779. Another, built of
brick, and completed in 1786, at a cost
of $114,000, was entirely consumed by
fire in 1810. The present fine edifice was
erected 1812-'14, at an expense of
$150,000. The attendant medical fac-
ulty are among the ablest in the city and
State. It has accommodation for 450
patients.
The ruins of the Town Alms House oc-
cupy a prominent locale on the Levée, in
the south end of the city. This building
was occupied during the war as a hospi-
The Female Orphan Asylum, at the
intersection of Camp and Prytania Streets,
has accommodation for 160 children. It
was commenced in 1836, and finished in
1840, at a cost of $42,000, of which
nearly one-half was the result of private
subscription. The land was donated by
Madame Foucher and her brother, Francis
Soulet.
The Poydras Female Orphan Asylum,
on Julia Street, founded 1817, and the
Male Orphan Asylum, in the adjoining
parish of Lafayette, are both flourishing
institutions. There are several other
noble charities in the city. Admission
by application to the Superior or Superin-
tendent in charge.
The Workhouses of the second and
third municipalities are worthy a visit
from those interested in moral and social
reform, especially of youth. The former
was built in 1841; the latter, which
stands on Moreau Street, near Piety, the
site of the old Washington Market, was
erected years later. Many of these insti-
tutions have been recently consolidated,
and located at the foot of Girod Street.
The City Prisons, which comprise a
parish jail and a police jail, are on Or-
leans and Ann Streets, opposite the market
place, main entrance on Orleans Street.
They are three stories in height, built of
brick, and plastered to imitate granite.
The building is surmounted by a belvi-
dere, with an alarm bell.
The Court-houses are on the right and
left of the cathedral on Jackson Square.
They were constructed toward the close
of the last century, through the liberality
of the founder of the cathedral, Don
Andre Almonaster, and are conspicuous
for their style of architecture, which is
Tusco-Doric.
103
NEW ORLEANS.]
CHURCHES.—The city contains many |
large, but few elegant, church edifices.
Among the religious denominations, as
might be expected in a community so
largely composed of French, the Roman
Catholic largely predominates. There are
upwards of fifty church édifices, about
one-half of which are Roman Catholic.
Of these, the Cathedral of St. Louis is
the most noteworthy. It stands on Char-
tres Street, on the east side of the Place
d'Armes (Jackson Square), and arrests
the attention of the stranger by its vener-
able and antique appearance. It lays no
claim to architectural display, though
there are few church edifices in the Union
at once so imposing and impressive.
The foundation was laid in 1792, and the
building completed in 1794, by Don Andre
Almonaster, perpetual regidor, and Alva-
rez Real, of the province. It was altered
and enlarged, in 1850, from designs by
De Louilly. This building is almost in-
separably connected with the memory of
the venerable Père Antonio De Sedella
(Father Antonio), curate of the parish
for nearly fifty years, who died in 1829,
and whose remains are interred here.
The paintings on the roof of the building
are by Canova and Rossi, and are fine
specimens of art. In the square in front
of this cathedral General Jackson re-
viewed his troops (December 18th, 1814),
prior to his victory over the British.
LOUISIANA.
The Church of the Immaculate Con-
ception (Jesuit), corner of Baronne and
Common Streets, is a striking edifice, in
the Moorish style of architecture. It
was commenced in 1852, and opened for
worship by Père Canbiaso in 1857. One
hundred and seventy thousand dollars
have been expended in its construction,
and the towers are still wanting to com-
plete it. High mass, both here and at
the cathedral, at 10 o'clock every Sun-
day.
[NEW ORLEANS.
famous minster at York, England, agree-
ably to the designs of the Messrs. Dakin.
The cost was about $100,000.
Among the Episcopal church edifices,
Christ's, corner of Canal and Rampart
Streets, and Annunciation, overlooking
Annunciation Square, are the most promi-
nent.
The Presbyterian Church, fronting on
Lafayette Square, in the Greco-Doric
style, is a fine edifice, much admired for
its elegant steeple. It was built in 1835|
at a cost of $55,000. It was enlarged in
1844, and has sittings for 1,000.
St. Patrick's, on Camp Street, north of
Lafayette Square, is a fine Gothic struc-
ture, with a tower 190 feet high. The
style is said to have been taken from the
The Unitarian Church, corner of St.
Charles and Julia, St. Alphonso, on Con-
stance, and St. Mary's, on Josephine
Street, are new and elegant buildings.
The two last named are Roman Catholic.
One of the most interesting relics of
the early church history of New Orleans
is the old Ursuline Convent and Chapel
on Condé Street. This building, of a
quaint style of architecture, was erected,
according to a Spanish inscription on a
marble tablet, in the middle of the façade
in 1787, during the reign of Carlos III.,
by Don Andre Almonaster. It is now
occupied and known as the Bishop's
Palace.
St. Antoine's Chapel, at the corner of
Rampart and Conti Streets, was erected
in 1826. It is generally known as the
Mortuary Chapel, all funeral ceremonies of
resident Catholics being performed here.
COLLEGES, SCHOOLS, ETC.— -The Univer-
sity of Louisiana is on Common Street,
near Baronne, and occupies the whole
front of the block. It has a prosperous
law school and a medical school. This
university was organized in 1849. The
medical college, which stands in the
centre of the block, has a façade of 100
feet. This department was established
in 1835. It has a large anatomical
museum, and extensive and valuable col-
lections of many kinds. The State made
an appropriation of $25,000 toward the
purchase of apparatus, drawings, plates,
etc., illustrative of the various branches
of medical study. The college had, in
the year 1859, no less than 400 students.
There is also a school of medicine, num-
bering 200 students. Built 1836.
The public school system of New Orleans
embraces four high schools and thirty-eight
primary and intermediate district schools
for the youth of both sexes, distributed
in every part of the city. There are also
eighteen schools for colored children,
under charge of the Board of Education
for Freedmen, established March 22, 1864.
104
NEW ORLEANS.]
For location of schools, number of
scholars, names of teachers, and other
information respecting the school system
of the city, the reader is referred to local
directories and reports of the respective
boards.
LOUISIANA.
One of the most attractive public
places of literary resort, and the only one
combining the essential features of a
news reading-room and exchange, are the
Merchants' Reading Rooms, conducted by
Mr. E. E. Overall, corner of St. Charles
and Commercial Alley. Files of the
principal American and European jour-
nals are kept. A chess-room is attached.
No stranger in New Orleans should omit
going to Overall's.
PARKS, SQUARES, ETC.-Like most
Southern cities, New Orleans is dotted
over with numerous squares with shade
trees and gravel walks, where the lounger
or pedestrian, wearied with his journey-
ings, may draw aside for retirement and
rest. Since the introduction of street
railroads, these public squares are less
resorted to than in former years, when
they formed the most attractive feature
of the place.
The New City Park, the largest of
these enclosures, and the only one having
any claims to be considered a "park," is
near the northeasterly boundary of the
city, in the neighborhood of Metarie Road
and Monroe Avenue. It embraces 55
city squares, an area equal to about 150
acres, and is tastefully laid out. Access
by the Canal Street and Ridge Road cars,
from the Monument.
Jackson Square, formerly known as the
Place d'Armes, covers the centre of the
river-front of the Old Town Plot, now
the First District. It is a place of favor-
ite resort. Its shell-strewn paths, its
beautiful trees and shrubbery, afford an
agreeable relief to the dust and din of the
busy levée and markets. The imposing
front of the cathedral and courts of justice
are seen to great advantage from the
river entrance of the square. The eques-
trian statue of Gen. Jackson, by Mills,
stands in the centre. A similar statue
is placed in Lafayette Square, in the rear
of the White House at Washington.
[NEW ORLEANS.
fine marble front of the City Hall, the
tapering spire of the Presbyterian
Church, and the massive-looking façade
of the Odd Fellows' Hall, present a strik-
ing appearance.
Lafayette Square, in the Second Dis-
trict, bounded by St. Charles and Camp
Streets, is another handsome souare. The
To the visitor and stroller in the west
end, Annunciation Square and Tivoli
Circle, at the head of St. Charles Street,
are worthy a visit. The former has a
few tastefully built private residences in
its immediate neighborhood.
Circus Place (Congo Square), on Ram-
part Street, between St. Ann and St.
Peter. Like other public grounds in the
city, it is a delightful place to lounge
away a summer evening. It was former-
ly known as Congo Park, and is the
place where the negroes, in the " good
old times before the war," were accus-
tomed to congregate and go through the
double shuffle to the favorite air of “Old
Virginia never tire." Being in the color-
ed district, it is still much frequented by
them, but the dancing has given place to
other pleasures less harmless and at-
tractive.
Washington Square, in the neighbor-
hood of the Elysian Fields in the Third
District, is a pleasant promenade. These
several resorts are easily reached by
street cars from Canal Street.
The Streets of New Orleans are, for the
most part, wide, well paved, and regularly
laid out, usually intersecting each other
at right angles, and, since the war, kept
passably clean. The broadest is Canal
Street, with a width of 1904 feet, with a
grass plot 25 feet wide, extending in the
centre through its whole length. Esplan-
ade, Rampart, and Basin Streets are sim-
ilarly embellished. The houses are built
chiefly of brick, and are usually four or
five stories high.
The Libraries of New Orleans are few
and unimportant. The collection of
books forming the State Library, occupy
a room in the upper story of the City
Hall until a suitable place is provided by
act of Legislature. The City Library is
on the first floor of the same building.
It comprises about 19,000 volumes, prin-
cipally miscellaneous works. Admission
to the privileges of the Library, for non-
residents, is by introduction.
Armory Hall, on Camp Street, occupies
the site, and part of the walls of the old
105
NEW ORLEANS.]
Camp Street theatre, erected in 1822. It is
a fine apartment 120 feet long, 60 feet wide,
and 22 feet high. It was long used as the
armory of the Washington Battalion.
is now used as an auction mart.
It
LOUISIANA.
The Cemeteries. Some of these homes
of the dead in New Orleans are deserv-
ing of particular notice, both from their
unique arrangement and for the peculiar
modes of interment. Each is enclosed
with a brick wall of arched cavities
(ovens, as they are called here), made
just large enough to admit a single coffin,
and raised, tier upon tier, to a height of
about twelve feet, with a thickness of ten.
The whole enclosure is divided into plots,
with gravel paths intersecting each other
at right angles, and is densely covered
with tombs, built wholly above ground,
and from one to three stories high. This
method of sepulture is adopted from
necessity, and burial under ground is
never attempted, excepting in the Potter's
Field, where the stranger without friends,
and the poor without money, find an un-
certain rest-the water with which the
soil is always saturated, often lifting the
coffin and its contents out of its narrow
and shallow cell, to rot with no other
covering than the arch of heaven. There
are twelve public burial-grounds in the
city, known respectively as Girod Street,
Charity Hospital, Odd Fellows', Cypress
Grove, Greenwood, St. Patrick's, St. Jo-
seph, St. Vincent, Lafayette, St. Louis,
Nos. 1 and 2 New St. Louis, and Hebrew
Rest. Of these the Cypress Grove and
Greenwood Cemetery, on the Metarie
Ridge, at the north end of Canal Street,
are the best worthy a visit. The
tery of St. Louis No. 1, at the intersection
of Basin and St. Louis Streets, contains
some fine monuments. Among those most
conspicuous for their size and beauty,
are the vaults of the "Société Française
de bienfaisance," "Orleans Battalion of
Artillery," the "Portuguese Society," and
"Italian Benevolent Society." The last is
one of the most beautiful structures of its
kind in the country. It is of white marble,
and was built in 1837, by Pietro Gualdi. |
St. Louis Cemetery No. 2 occupies four city
squares on Esplanade Street, near Bayou
St. John. Other cemeteries, principally
Catholic, are situated in Lafayette and
Algiers. Permits to visit the cemeteries
[NEW ORLEANS.
are granted at 10 Bank Place. The
Monument Cemetery on the Battle-
Field is wholly devoted to the interment
of soldiers. It was opened May 2, 1864,
and has already 9,000 interments. There
are two other cemeteries for deceased
soldiers on the Carrolton Shell Road.
Monuments.-New Orleans has two mon-
uments worthy of notice. The Clay Monu-
ment on Canal Street, between St. Charles
and Royal Streets, is built of granite; the
figure bears a striking resemblance to
the great statesman. The monument in
course of erection to the Hero of New
Orleans, on the Battle-Field, below the
city, is seventy feet high. It was com-
menced in 1856. When complete, it will
be 140 feet in height. The equestrian
statue of Jackson in the Place D'Armes,
opposite the Cathedral, is too well known
to need description here. It is the same
met with so often in Washington and
other cities.
The Markets.-The stranger in New
Orleans will be much interested by a
visit to the markets. They are charac-
teristic and numerous. The principal
are the vegetable and meat (French) mar-
kets on the Levée near Jackson Square
and the French Cathedral. To be seen
to the greatest advantage, they should be
visited on Sunday morning, between the
hours of 8 and 9 o'clock. At break of
day the gathering commences--all colors,
nations, and tongues, commingled in one
heterogeneous mass. The music far from
being unpleasant, however, is musical to
the stranger's ear. A visit thither is thus
described by a well-known writer: One
ceme-morning we rose early to visit the market
of the First Municipality, and found the
air on the bank of the Mississippi filled
with mist as dense as a London fog, but
of a pure white instead of yellow color.
Through this atmosphere the innumerable
masts of the ships alongside the wharf
were dimly seen. Among other fruits
in the market we observed abundance
of bananas, and good pine-apples, for
twenty-five cents each, from the West
Indies. There were stalls where hot
coffee was selling, in white china cups,
reminding us of Paris. Among other
articles exposed for sale were brooms
made of palmetto-leaves, and wagon-
loads of the dried Spanish moss, or Til-
106
NEW ORLEANS.]
|
landsia. The quantity of this plant hang-
ing from the trees in the swamps sur-
rounding New Orleans, and everywhere
on the Delta of the Mississippi, might
suffice to stuff all the mattresses in the
world. The Indians formerly used it for
another purpose to give porosity or
lightness to their building materials.
When passing through the stalls, we
were surrounded by a population of ne-
groes, mulattoes, and quadroons, some
talking French, others a patois of Spanish
and French, others a mixture of French
and English, or English translated from
French, and with the French accent.
They seemed very merry, especially those
who were jet-black. Some of the creoles
also, both of French and Spanish extrac-
tion, like many natives of the south of
Europe, were very dark. Amid this
motley group, sprung from so many races,
we encountered a young man and woman,
arm-in-arm, of fair complexion, evidently
Anglo-Saxon, and who looked as if they
had recently come from the North. The
Indians, Spaniards, and French standing
round them, seemed as if placed there to
remind us of the successive races whose
power in Louisiana had passed away,
while this fair couple were the represent-
atives of a people whose dominion car-
ries the imagination far into the future.
However much the moralist may satirize
the spirit of conquest, or the foreigner
laugh at some of the vainglorious boast-
ing about "
destiny," none can doubt
that from this stock is to spring the
people who will supersede every other in
the northern if not also in the southern
continent of America. The buildings
forming the market-place first describ-
ed were built in 1830, at a cost of
$55,000. The other markets are those
in Poydras and Magazine Streets, St.
Mary's on Thompson Street, Orleans near|
the city prison, and that at the head of
Elysian Fields. A visit to the first, how-
ever, will save the stranger the trouble
of making further explorations.
Among the relics of the Spanish rule in
New Orleans the most interesting are the
Casa Blanca, at the corner of Bienville
and Old Levée Streets. It was once the
courtly residence of Bienville, the first
Governor of Louisiana (1710). It remains
as originally built, and in a good state of
LOUISIANA.
[NEW ORLEANS.
(C
repair. The first or street floor is now
occupied as a grocery store; the upper
portion as a boarding-house. The old
Spanish building at the corner of Royal
and Dumaine Streets should also be visited
by those who would see what New Orleans
was more than a hundred years ago."
Jackson's Headquarters are in the upper
part of the house No. 86 (old number, 104)
Royal Street. General Jackson occupied
these quarters during his stay in the city
from December 2, 1814, to a few days
before the battle. The Old Spanish Court
House, where Jackson was arraigned for
contempt of court and fined a thousand
dollars, is still another object of interest
connected with the history of this remark-
able man. It is at 269 Royal Street.
|
Walking through the French quarter of
the city, near the corner of Orleans and
Dauphin Streets, not far north of the
Cathedral, the stranger will observe a fine
date palm, 30 feet high, growing in the
open air. This tree is near one hundred
years old, for Père Antoine, a Roman
Catholic priest, who died (1829) at the
age of eighty, recorded that he planted it
himself when he was young. In his will
he provided that they who succeeded to
this lot of ground should forfeit it if they
cut down the palm.
The Levée, already briefly referred to in
our sketch, affords to the visitor one of the
most peculiar and characteristic sights of
the Crescent City. For extent and activity
the scene has no equal on the continent.
The best point from which to obtain a
view of the city and its environs is the
roof of the St. Charles Hotel, or the tower
of St. Patrick's Church. If the traveller,
says Sir Charles Lyell, has expected, on
first obtaining an extensive view of the
city, to see an unsightly swamp, with
scarcely any objects to relieve the mo-
notony of the flat plain, save the wind-
ing river and a few lakes, he will be agrec-
ably disappointed. He will admire many
a villa and garden in the suburbs; and in
the uncultivated space beyond, the effect
of uneven and undulating ground is pro-
duced by the magnificent growth of
cypress and other swamp timber, which
have converted what would otherwise
have formed the lowest points in the
landscape into the appearance of wooded
eminences. The French began their settle-
107
NEW ORLEANS.]
ments on Lake Pontchartrain, because
they found there an easy communication
with the Gulf of Mexico. But they fixed
the site of their town on that part of the
great river which was nearest to the
lagoon, so as to command by this means
the navigation of the interior country.
The private dwellings in the suburbs are
many of them very charming places, buried
in the grateful shadow of tropical leaves
—the magnolia, lemon, myrtle, and orange
tree. Visitors wishing to bring away
with them a few pictures of the prominent
buildings and objects of interest in New
Orleans should not fail to visit the gallery
of Mr. Eugene A. Piffet, at 93 Camp Street.
His collection affords every latitude of
choice, and his facilities for executing
orders are not excelled by any other es-
tablishment in the city.
The Restaurants of New Orleans have
long been famous for the excellence of
their cuisine. Victor's, 185 Canal Street;
the Maison Dorée, 144 Canal, and the
Restaurant Moreau, have no superiors in
the South. Galpin's, 32 Royal Street
(steaks and chops); Pino's, 23 St. Charles,
and Rivas (oysters), 156 Dryades Street,
are among the best of their class in the city.
The City Railroad system of New
Orleans embraces eight main lines-trav-
ersing the following streets: Magazine,
from Canal to 8th; Prytania, from Canal
to Limits;
; Canal, from Monument to
Ridge Cemeteries; Esplanade, from Monu-
ment to Bayou Bridge; Dauphin, from
Monument to U. S. Barracks; Levée, from
Custom House to U. S. Barracks; Baronne
Street, throughout. The aggregate length
of track laid in the city is 40 miles. Fares
range from 5 cents to 7 cents. Good car-
riages and hacks can be found at the
stands in front of the St. Charles and
principal hotels. Fare, $2.00 an hour;
$5.00 for the forenoon or afternoon.
Livery charges are somewhat higher.
The best plan for strangers, especially if
accompanied by ladies, is to hire a suitable
conveyance by the hour, and discharge at
the end of each trip.
|
LOUISIANA.
The city is supplied with water from the
river, raised by steam to an elevated re-
servoir, and thence distributed through
the streets. Some six millions of gallons
are used daily. Gas was introduced in
1834-water the same year.
[NEW ORLEANS.
The holiday season, which includes
Christmas and the New Year's, is the best
time to visit New Orleans. No city on the
broad continent presents such numerous
and varied attractions at this festive sea-
son, and stolid, indeed, must be the
stranger who is not impressed with his
experiences. The distinguished author
from whom we have so largely quoted,
thus writes of the Carnival and the cere-
monies of Mardi Gras: "It was quite a
novel and refreshing sight to see
whole
population giving up their minds for a
short season to amusement.
There was
a grand procession parading the streets,
almost every one dressed in the most
grotesque attire, troops of them on horse-
back, some in open carriages, with bands
of music, and in a variety of costumes-
some as Indians, with feathers on their
heads, and one, a jolly fat man, as Mardi
Gras himself. All wore masks, and here
and there in the crowd, or stationed in a
balcony above, we saw persons armed
with bags of flour, which they showered
down copiously on any one who seemed
particularly proud of his attire. The
strangeness of the scene was not a little
heightened by the blending of negroes,
quadroons, and mulattoes in the crowd;
and we were amused by observing the
ludicrous surprise, mixed with contempt,
of several unmasked, stiff, grave Anglo-
Americans from the North, who were
witnessing for the first time what seemed
to them so much mummery and tom-
foolery. One wagoner, coming out of a
cross street in his working dress, drove his
team of horses and vehicle, heavily laden
with cotton-bales, right through the pro-
cession, causing a long interruption. The
crowd seemed determined to allow nothing
to disturb their good humor; but although
many of the wealthy Protestant citizens
take part in the ceremony, this rude intru-
sion struck me as a kind of foreshadowing
of coming events, emblematic of the vio-
lent shock which the invasion of the
Anglo-Americans is about to give to the
old régime of Louisiana. A gentleman
told me that, being last year in Rome, he
had not seen so many masks at the Carni-
val there; and, in spite of the increase of
Protestants, he thought there had been
quite as much 'flour and fun' this year
as usual. The proportion, however, of
•
108
NEW ORLEANS.]
strict Romanists is not so great as for-
merly, and to-morrow, they say, when Lent
begins, there will be an end of the trade
in masks; yet the butchers will sell nearly
as much meat as ever. During the Car-
nival the greater part of the French popu-
lation keep open houses, especially in the
country.'
The Creoles.-Those who would form
a just estimate of the social character and
appearance of the creole population of
the city, should visit the opera in the
height of the season. The French creole
ladies, many of them descended from
Norman ancestors, and of pure, unmixed
blood, are very handsome. They are
usually attired in Parisian fashion, not
over-dressed, nor so thinly clad as are
the generality of American women-their
luxuriant hair, tastefully arranged, fasten-
ed with ornamental pins, and adorned
with a colored ribbon or a single flower.
The word "creole" is used in Louisiana to
express a native-born American, whether
black or white, descended from old-world
parents, for they would not call the abo-
riginal Indians creoles. It never means
persons of mixed breed; and the French
or Spanish creoles in New Orleans would
shrink as much as a New Englander from
intermarriage with one tainted, in the
slightest degree, with African blood. The
frequent alliances of the creoles, or Louis-
ianians, of French extraction, with lawyers
and merchants from the Northern States,
help to cement the ties which are every
day binding more firmly together the
distant parts of the Union. Both races
may be improved by such connection, for
the manners of the creole ladies are, for
the most part, more refined; and many a
Louisianian might justly have felt indig-
nant if he could have overheard a con-
ceited young bachelor from the North
telling me "how much they were prefer-
red by the fair sex to the hard-drinking,
gambling, horse-racing, cock-fighting, and
tobacco-chewing Southerners." If the
creoles have less depth of character, and
are less striving and ambitious than the
New Englanders, it must be no slight
source of happiness to the former to be
so content with present advantages. They
seem to feel, far more than the Anglo-
Saxons, that if riches be worth the win-
ning, they are also worth enjoying. The
[VICINITY.
quadroons, or the offspring of the whites
and muluttoes, sit in an upper tier of
boxes appropriated to them.
When they
are rich, they hold a peculiar and very
equivocal position in society. As children
they have often been sent to Paris for
their education, and, being as capable of
improvement as any whites, return with
refined manners, and not unfrequently
with more cultivated minds than the ma-
jority of those from whose society they
are shut out. "By the tyranny of caste
they are driven, therefore, to form among
themselves a select and exclusive set.
Among other stories illustrating their
social relation to the whites, we are told
that a young man of the dominant race
fell in love with a beautiful quadroon girl,
who was so light-colored as to be scarcely
distinguishable from one of pure breed.
He found that, in order to render the mar-
riage legal, he was required to swear that
he himself had negro blood in his veins;
and, that he might conscientiously take
the oath, he let some of the blood of his
betrothed into his veins with a lancet.
The romance of this doubtful tale was
greatly diminished, although I fear that
my inclination to believe in its truth was
equally enhanced, when the additional
circumstance was related, that the young
lady was rich."
The lady was rich." The foregoing sketch of
society and social life in New Orleans, I
need hardly remind my reader, was penned
long before the late rebellion had so
changed the aspect of every thing through-
out the South. The visitor will, however,
be surprised as well as delighted at the
extent to which the manners and customs
of "the old régime," are still perpetuated
among the descendants of the early settlers
in the Crescent City.
LOUISIANA.
RAILWAYS.-The New Orleans, Jackson,
and Great Northern Railway. Stations,
Magnolia (98 m.), Jackson (183 m.), Can-
ton (206 m.), where it connects with the
Mississippi Central to Jackson, and all
points north, east, and west.
Mexican Gulf Railway from New Or-
leans 28 miles to Proctorsville, connect-
ing with Mobile steamers.
New Orleans, Opelousas, and Great
Western Railway from Algiers, opposite
New Orleans, via St. Charles (18), La-
fourche (52), Terrabonne (55), Bayou
109
NEW ORLEANS.]
Bœuf (73), to Brashear (80 miles), where
trains connect with Southern Steamship
Company's packets for Galveston and In-
dianola, Texas.
LOUISIANA.
STEAMBOATS.-Steamer to New York
twice a week. To St. Louis, and all
points on the Upper Mississippi and Ohio
Rivers, every evening. For Red, Oua-
chita, and Yazoo Rivers, regular semi-
weekly packets.
VICINITY.
It
The Battle-Field, formerly known as
the Plains of Chalmette, is an object of
much interest to all American visitors,
and is generally first visited. It lies four
miles and a half south of Canal Street,
and may be reached either by carriage
along the levée, or by the street cars.
is washed by the waters of the Mississip-
pi, and surrounded by cypress-swamps
and cane-brakes. The action took place
January 8, 1815, between the British
troops, under General Pakenham, and the
Americans under Jackson, the former
suffering a signal defeat. Pakenham was
approaching the city by the way of Lakes
Borgne and Pontchartrain, at the time of
this terrible repulse. His loss in killed
and wounded was nearly 3,000, while the
Americans had but 7 men killed and 6
wounded. A marble monument, 70 feet
high, and yet unfinished, occupies a suit-
able site overlooking the ground, and
serves to commemorate the victory.
[VICINITY.
|
was fired by the shells from Admiral Far-
ragut's fleet on their way up to the city
(April 25, 1862). The garrison is now
composed of the 1st Regular Infantry.
The Ursuline Convent is passed a short
distance north of the Barracks. It has
an imposing front of near 200 feet, and
commands a fine view of the river. It was
founded in 1826. A nunnery and chapel
are attached to the convent. The former
has accommodation for forty sisters of
the Ursuline Order. Admission to the
convent is granted only during vacation.
|
Lake Pontchartrain, five miles north of
the city, is famous for its fish and game.
It communicates with Lake Maurepas on
the west, and through the Rigolets, with
Lake Borgne and the Gulf of Mexico on
the east. By this latter route the daily
steamers leave New Orleans for Mobile.
The lake is 40 miles in length and 24
miles in with. It is from 16 to 20 feet
deep, and abounds in fish. It is reached
by the Lake Railway every hour through
the day. The swamps which lay between
the city and the lake, and are traversed by
the railway, are covered with a thick
growth of cypress and other trees peculiar
to this locality. At the railway terminus
is
is a hotel (the Washington) for the
accommodation of visitors. Those par-
ticular about their sleeping accommoda-
tion and their associations, would do well
to return to the city by the last train,
which usually leaves at 7 o'clock. The
Shell Road affords an agreeable drive to
Lake Pontchartrain for those who prefer
that kind of locomotion. This road lies
along the margin of the canal, and was
once the finest and smoothest road in the
country. During the military occupation
of the city, a railroad track was laid
through it, which has greatly marred its
beauty and excellence. A movement is
on foot to restore it. Half way between
the city and the lake is the celebrated
Metarie race track. Buffet and restaurant
adjoining.
The Monumental Cemetery or Sol-
diers' Burying-Ground, occupies the south-
west corner of the field. In return
ing to the city a good opportunity is
afforded for visiting the United States
Barracks, which front the river about
three and a half miles below the city.
The purchase of the property, which
embraces two acres front and forty
acres in depth, was made through Adju-
tant G. M. Dreme, in 1830. The works
were begun in February, 1834, and com-
pleted December, 1835, at a cost of $182,-
000. The quarters of the commandant
occupy the centre of the front, those of
the staff and company being on either
flank. The hospital storehouse, corps de
garde, and post magazine, are in the rear
of the parade-ground. One of the build-utes by car from Canal Street.
ings on the right of the parade-ground
Lafayette, until 1852 under a distinct
government, now forms the 4th district
of New Orleans.
Jefferson City is a pleasant suburb
of New Orleans, lying immediately west
of the city. It is reached in thirty min
Carrolton, in Jefferson Parish, six miles
110
BATON ROUGE.]
from Canal Street, has many fine public
gardens and private residences. The
route beyond the city of New Orleans is
through cultivated fields, gardens, and
well-shaded pastures. It has a good
race-course. Railway communication
with New Orleans every hour.
Greenville is at the western terminus
of the city car route. The United States
Hospital buildings located here are worthy
a visit.
LOUISIANA.
Algiers, opposite to New Orleans, has
extensive dry docks and ship-yards. Com-
munication by ferry. Macdonough, on
the same side, was once conspicuous for
its fine U. S. Hospital, one of the largest
structures in the State. It was destroyed
during the late war. Gretna, two miles
above Macdonough and nearly opposite
Lafayette, is a pretty rural spot, abound-
ing in pleasant, shady walks.
Forts St. Philip and Jackson, seventy-
five miles below the city and twenty-five
miles from the "passes," or mouths of
the river, are interesting to the Northern
traveller as the scene of the bombard-
ment by the naval fleet under Admiral
(then Captain) Farragut, April 18, 1862.
Fort St. Philip is on the north and Fort
Jackson on the south bank of the river.
The bombardment continued six days.
The Chalmette Batteries, six miles below
the city, manned for a short time by the
rebels as Farragut's fleet passed up the
river, are seen near the edge of the old
Chalmette battle-field. At 10 o'clock P. M.
[BATON ROUGE
of the 25th April, 1862, the fleet anchored
off the Custom House.
Baton Rouge.-HOTEL, Harney
House. This city, the former capital of
Louisiana, is upon the Mississippi, 129
miles above New Orleans. It is built
upon the first of the famous bluffs of the
Great River seen in ascending its waters,
and is thought to be one of the most
healthy places in this part of the country.
The city contains a College and a United
States Arsenal and Barracks. The name
of Baton Rouge is said to have been thus
derived: when the place was first settled,
there was growing on the spot a cypress
(a tree of a reddish bark) of immense size
and great height, denuded of branches.
One of the settlers playfully remarked
that it would make a handsome cane.
From this small jest grew Baton Rouge
(red cane). The Deaf and Dumb Asylum,
and Penitentiary are conspicuous build-
ings. Baton Rouge is interesting as hav-
ing been the home of Zachary Taylor.
As the usual route to the States of Texas
and Arkansas, adjoining Louisiana, west
of the Mississippi River, is by steamer
from New Orleans, I shall devote the
two following chapters to a brief descrip-
tion of the main points and features of
interest in those States, reserving more
minute particulars in regard to the river
routes from New Orleans northward to
Memphis, St. Louis, and Cincinnati, to the
close of my volume.
111
TEXAS.
TEXAS.
TEXAS.
TEXAS is one of the youngest of the
great family of Southern United States,
and on account of its remoteness from
the ordinary thoroughfares of travel, is
but little visited by Northern tourists.
In the year 1821 the inducements held
out to setters in this region by the Govern-
ment of Mexico, to whom the territory at
that period belonged, caused an immense
rush of emigration thither from the
United States. This new and hardier
population had grown so numerous by
the year 1832, as to quite absorb and
destroy the original feeble spirit of the
land under Mexican rule, and to embolden
the exotic population to seek the freedom
and independence there, to which they
had been accustomed at home. With
both the will and power to accomplish
their purpose, they first demanded admis-
sion for their State as an independent
member of the Mexican Confederacy;
and that being refused, they declared
themselves wholly free of all allegiance
whatsoever to that government. This as-
sumption resulted in a war with Mexico,
which, after various fortunes, was deter-
termined in favor of the Texans, by the
total defeat and capture of the Mexican
President, Santa Anna, at the memorable
battle of San Jacinto, April 21, 1836.
The little village of San Jacinto is in
Harris County, on Luffalo Bayou, near its
entrance into Galveston Bay, 17 miles east
of the present city of Houston. Texas con-
tinued to be an independent nation after
the battle of San Jacinto, until her ad-
mission in 1845 as a member of the great
North American Confederacy. This fresh
turn in events, and the disputes which fol-
lowed in respect to boundary lines, be-
tween the new State and the territory of
Mexico, were soon followed by the war
between that country and the United
[TEXAS.
|
States. Two of the famous fights in this
war, under the lead of General Taylor,
occurred within the limits of the present
State. The battle-field of Palo Alto is
near the southern extremity of Texas, be-
tween Point Isabel and Matamoras, nine
miles northeast of the latter town. The
battle took place on the 8th of May, 1846.
The American troops, numbering 2,111,
led by General Taylor, had 32 killed and
47 wounded; while the Mexicans, under
General Arista, amounting to 6,000 men,
had 252 killed. The American loss un-
happily included the gallant Major Ring-
gold. The battle-field of Resaca de la
Palma lies in the southeastern extremity
of the State, near the entrance of the
Rio Grande into the Gulf of Mexico. It
is in close vicinage with the field of Palo
Alto, four miles north of Matamoras, on
the route to Point Isabel. This gallant
engagement occurred on the 9th of May,
1846, the day following the victory of
Palo Alto. The Mexicans, to the number
of 6,000, under General Arista, were
totally defeated by about 2,000 Ameri-
cans, commanded by General Taylor.
The loss of the former was about 500
killed and wounded, besides all their ar-
tillery and furniture; that of the latter
was 39 killed and 82 wounded. Though
Texas has since these days of trial gone
on prospering and to prosper, she is not
yet entirely at peace in all her borders.
On the northwest plains of the State the
people are still exposed to the murderous
incursions of their Indian neighbors, the
fierce and warlike Camanches, Apaches,
and other tribes.
Texas was the seventh of the Southern
States to join the ill-fated Confederacy,
the ordinance of secession having been
passed at the city of Austin, February 5,
1861. The United States troops in the
:
112
TEXAS.]
[TEXAS.
State at that time numbered 2,500, divid- | found in many parts of the State; and
ed into 37 companies.
copperas, agates, lime, alum, chalcedony,
jasper, and red and white sandstone.
There are, too, salt-lakes and salt-springs.
In a pitch lake, 20 miles from Beaumont,
there are deposits of sulphur, nitre, and
fire-clay. An immense gypsum-bed, the
largest yet discovered on the continent,
traverses the northwest portion of the
State. Mineral springs (see Springs) exist
in different parts of the country.
The soil of Texas is as varied as its sur-
face and climate, and, for the most part,
extremely fertile. The great staple is
cotton, which thrives all over the State,
and is of very superior quality in the Gulf
districts. Sugar may be profitably culti-
vated in the level regions. Tobacco is
raised with ease, and with scarcely less
success than on the island of Cuba. All
the grains and grasses of the North are
found here, with every variety of tropical
and other fruits and vegetation. The live
oak, in many varieties, abounds in the
forests, beside the palmetto, cedar, pine,
hickory, walnut, ash, pecan, mulberry,
elm, sycamore, and cypress. Sportsmen
will find a congenial abiding-place in
Texas. On the prairies almost every
kind of wild animal abounds. In the
northwest are the wild horse, or mustang,
and the fierce buffalo. The deer and the
antelope, the moose and the mountain
goat, are plentiful-not to mention the
jaguars, the pumas, wild-cats, black bears,
ocelots, wolves, and foxes, and such smaller
game as peccaries, opossums, raccoons,
hares, rabbits, and squirrels. A special
feature of the wild life here is the prairie
dog, or marmot, dwelling in holes burrow-
ed in the ground. Their numbers are so
great that the traveller may sometimes
journey for days together without losing
sight of them. The feathered tribe are
also abundant, including birds of prey
and birds of sport. There is the bald-
headed eagle and the Mexican eagle, vul-
tures, owls, hawks, wild turkeys, wild
geese, prairie hens, canvass-back and other
ducks, teal, brandt, pheasants, quails,
grouse, woodcocks, pigeons, partridges,
snipes, plovers, red-birds, and turtle-doves.
By the waters are found, also, the crane,
the swan, the pelican, the water turkey,
and the king-fisher. The smaller birds
are numerous, and among them many of
TEXAS.
|
The landscape of Texas is varied, and
in many sections of the State highly
picturesque. Along the coast, on the
southeast, there is a flat reach of from 30
to 60 miles in breadth; next comes a belt
of undulating prairie country, extending
from 150 to 200 miles wide, and this
again is succeeded in the west and north-
west by a region of bold hills and table
lands. The plateau of Texas, including
some portions of New Mexico, extends
about 250 miles from north to south, and
300 miles from the Rio Grande east. The
upper part, known as the Llano Estacado,
or "Staked Plain," is 2,500 feet above
the sea.
This immense district, except-
ing, sometimes, the immediate edge of
the streams, is almost wholly destitute of
vegetation. Even the stunted grasses,
which follow the rains, soon wither and
die. The Colorado, the Brazos, and the
Red Rivers find their sources here. The
extreme northern part of the State, ex-
tending, perhaps, 60 miles or more, is oc-
cupied by a portion of the great Ameri-
can desert. The high lands of the west
and northwest are yet a wilderness, visit-
ed only by a few bold hunters in quest of
the buffalo and other wild animals which
abound there. The region, however, is said
to have an inviting aspect, and to be well
watered and fertile. The Colorado Hills
extend in a north and south direction,
east of the Colorado River. Between the
Colorado and the Rio Grande, and north
of the sources of the San Antonio and
Nueces Rivers, are broken and irregular
chains of hills, probably outposts of the
great Rocky Mountain ranges. Some of
these hills, as the Organ, the Hueco, and
the Guadalupe Mountains, have an ele-
vation of 3,000 feet above the Rio
Grande; and the Guadalupe group rises
to that height above the adjacent plains.
Texas abounds in mineral wealth, as
might be supposed from her proximity to
the rich mining districts of Mexico. Gold
and silver lie buried, no doubt, in large
quantities in her soil. Indeed, the latter
metal has been already found at San Saba
and upon the Bidas River. Coal is sup-
posed to exist about 200 miles from the
coast, in a belt extending southwest from
Trinity River to the Rio Grande. Iron is
113
TEXAS.
[GALVESTON,
| ington; and steamboats may ascend 40
miles, to Columbia, at all seasons. Much
of its course is through alluvial plains,
occupied with sugar and cotton planta-
tions, fields of Indian corn, and forests of
red cedar and of live oak. Richmond
and Waco are also small towns on this
river.
RIVERS.]
the most brilliant plumage, as the oriole,
the paroquet, the cardinal, the whippoor-
will, and the sweet-toned mocking-bird.
Blackbirds abound, and woodpeckers,
blue-jays, starlings, red-birds, swallows,
martens, and wrens. In the rivers and
bays there are all the varieties of water
life, from alligators to perch, pike, trout,
turtles, and oysters. Snakes and reptiles
of all sorts are at home in Texas; rattle-
snakes, moccasins, copperheads, coach-
whips, and garden snakes, horned frogs
and lizards, the ugly centipedes and the
poisonous tarantula. The coast of Texas,
like that of the borders of the Southern
States, on the Atlantic and the Gulf of
Mexico, is lined with a chain of islands,
separated from the main land by bays and
lagoons. There are the bays of Galveston,
Matagorda, Espiritu Santo, Aranzas, Cor-
pus Christi, and Laguna del Madre. These
bays are some 30 and some nearly 100
miles in length.
|
RIVERS.—The Rio Grande, or Rio Bravo
del Norte, the largest river in Texas, of
which it forms the southern boundary, is
1,800 miles in length. It flows from the
Rocky Mountains to the Gulf of Mexico.
It is a shallow stream, much broken by
rapids and sand-bars, though small steam-
boats ascend its waters 450 miles from the
sea, to Kingsbury Rapids. Brownsville, 40
miles from its mouth, is its principal
town. The "Great Indian Crossing" is
about 900 miles from its mouth. At this
place is the famous ford of the Apaches
and the Camanches, when they make their
predatory visits into Mexico.
The Colorado River runs from the
table-lands in the northwest part of the
State 900 miles to Matagorda Bay. Austin
City, Bastrop, La Grange, Columbus, and
Matagorda are upon its banks. Austin,
the capital of the State, at the head of
steamboat navigation, is 300 miles from
the sea.
The scenery of many portions
of this river is extremely picturesque.
The Brazos is one of the largest of the
Texan rivers. It runs from the table-
lands of the west to the Gulf of Mexico, 40
miles below Galveston; the direct distance
from its source to its mouth is 500 miles,
and by the windings of its channel 900
miles. At high water the Brazos is navi-
gable 300 miles from its mouth, to Wash-
The Nueces, like most of the rivers of
Texas, rises in the table and hill districts
of the west, and flows through the State
into the Gulf of Mexico. This river follows
a very eccentric course of 350 miles to
Nueces Bay. It may be ascended by
steamers 100 miles.
The San Antonio, the Guadalupe, the
Trinity, the Neches, and the Sabine, other
chief rivers of Texas, are, in general
character, course, and extent, much like
those of which we have already spoken.
RAILWAYS.-The Houston and Texas
Central Railway from Houston 80 miles
to Millican. Connects at Houston with
steamers for Galveston and New Orleans;
at Hempstead, with the Washington
County Railway for Brenham; and at
Navasota, with stages to Shreveport.
The Galveston, Houston, and Henderson
Railway from Galveston 50 miles to
Houston. Connects at Harrisburg with
the Buffalo Bayou, Brazos, and Colorado
Railway; at Austin with Texas Central
Railway.
The Buffalo Bayou, Brazos, and Colo-
rado Railway from Galveston (steamboat)
65 miles to Harrisburg; to Richmond
(railroad), 32 miles; and thence by stage,
via Columbus (145) and Bastrop (210), to
Austin, 240 miles.
The Houston Tap and Brazoria Rail-
way, from Houston to Columbia, 50 miles.
There are numerous other routes pro-
jected and partially completed. Promi-
nent among these are the Galveston and
Fulton, Arkansas, route; the Texas and
New Orleans route; and Southern Pacific
route.
GALVESTON.
450 miles from New Orleans; 230 from
Austin.
HOTELS, Island City House. Galves
ton is the largest city and the commercial
114
HOUSTON.]
It
metropolis of Texas. It is built on an
island at the mouth of Galveston Bay.
The island of Galveston is about 30 miles
in length and 3 miles broad-dividing
the harbor from the Gulf of Mexico.
is a thriving place, and its advantages as
the best harbor on the coast will, no
doubt, rapidly increase its importance.
The city was first settled in 1837. The
Roman Catholic University of St. Mary's,
the Cathedral, and the Episcopal Church
are large, noticeable structures of brick,
in the Gothic style. There is in the city
also a convent of Ursuline nuns. It has
also a fine Town Hall and Market House.
The island of Galveston was for a number
of years the rendezvous and headquarters
of the famous pirate of the Gulf, Lafitte,
until his settlement was broken up in 1821
by Lieutenant Kearney, commanding the
United States brig Enterprise. The bay
extends northward from the city to the
mouth of Trinity River, a distance of 35
miles, and has an average breadth of 15
miles. The city has two good hotels, and
several newspapers. Railroads and steam-
ers are bringing Galveston within speedy
reach of the great country around it.
Passengers may now leave the city on the
Buffalo Bayou, Brazos, and Colorado
Railway (see Railways), and reach Austin
in 60 hours, including 18 hours' rest.
Stages go from Columbus, on this route,
to Hallettsville, Gonsales, Seguin, and San
Antonio; and from Austin to all points of
Western and Northwestern Texas. Gal-
veston is connected with Houston by the
Galveston, Houston, and Henderson Rail-
way, 50 miles in length. Daily steamers
to New Orleans. Population 12,000.
Route from New York.-One of the
United States mail line packets (Williams
& Guion, 71 Wall Street, agents) leaves
Pier No. 37, E. R., every fortnight. Cabin
fare, $75.00.
TEXAS.
[AUSTIN.
with fine pasturage. This is a great cn-
trepot for the cotton, sugar, and other
products of the adjacent country. Hous-
ton was settled in 1836, and was once.
the capital of Texas. The other hotels
here are excellent. Its schools and edu-
cational institutions are among the best
in the State. Cars leave Houston by the
Houston and Texas Central Railway, con-
necting at Hempstead (50 miles) with
daily stage lines for San Antonio and va-
rious other towns in the interior.
Austin, the capital of Texas, is
beautifully situated on the north bank of
the Colorado River, 200 miles by land
from its mouth, and 230 miles west-north-
west of Galveston. The seat of Govern-
ment was established in 1844. The land-
scape of the vicinage is strikingly pic-
turesque. The Asylums for the Blind
and Deaf and Dumb and the Lunatic
Asylum are commodious and well-con-
ducted institutions. A fine view is ob-
tained from the Governor's house. The
Springs in the vicinity of the city are
much frequented by travellers. The
present population of 5,000 is steadily in-
creasing, and in due time the city will, no
doubt, become a large and prosperous
business mart.
business mart. From New Orleans the
route is by steamer to Galveston. For
routes thence, see Galveston. Stringer's
Hotel is a well-kept house.
San Antonio, 80 miles northwest
of Austin, is a thriving city, with a popu-
lation of nearly 9,000. It is in Bexar Coun-
ty, on the San Antonio River. Sawyer &
Co.'s stages connect it with Austin. It is
the centre of a prosperous trade with
Mexico. The United States Arsenal is
one of the principal objects of interest.
Fort Alamo, in the immediate neighbor-
hood, is worthy a visit. Here (March 6,
1836) a garrison of Texans, attacked by
an overwhelming Mexican force, perished
to a man rather than yield; on which
account it is sometimes spoken of as the
Thermopyla of Texas. Many of the private
residences are elegant. Missions San José,
San Juan, and Conception, built by the
Spaniards, are among the most interest-
ing objects of the place. The main
Plaza is still used by the Roman Cath-
olic inhabitants as a place of assem-
bly and worship. A daily line of stages
leave for Victoria, where connection is
Houston.—HOTELS, State Capitol
Hotel, Fannin House. Houston, the second
of the Texan cities in commercial import-
ance, is reached from Galveston by
river, 82 miles; or by the Galveston and
Houston Railway, 50 miles. Its popula-
tion is about 10,000. It is situated on the
low lands of the coast stretch, upon
Buffalo Bayou, 200 miles east-southeast
of Austin City. Much of the surrounding
country is a treeless savanna, covered
Shak
115
BROWNSVILLE.]
|
made with the San Antonio and Mexican
Gulf Railway for Zorrillo, Lavaca, and In-
dianola. The leading hotels of San An-
tonio are the Plaza and the Menger
House.
TEXAS.
Brownsville, formerly Fort
Brown, is in Cameron County, opposite
Matamoras, on the Rio Grande, 40 miles
from its mouth. It is 300 south of
Austin. Brownsville is one of the chief
towns of the State, and has a popu-
lation of about 2,000. It has a Cus-
tom House and a thriving trade.
was named in honor of Major Brown,
who commanded the garrison at the
period of the Mexican war. He was
mortally wounded by a shell from the
116
It
[Matagorda.
enemy's batteries (May 6, 1846) while
General Taylor was occupied in opening a
communication with Point Isabel. Mata-
moras, on the opposite side of the Rio
Grande, is a populous Mexican town, with
an important trade. The American army
under Taylor entered this place without
opposition, after the victories of l'alo
Alto and Resaca de la Palma.
Bastrop, on the Colorado River, 35
miles east by south from Austin, is a
trading point of some pretension. It is
accessible by steamboat from Matagorda.
Matagorda, at the mouth of the
Colorado, is a delightful summer resort.
Population 1,500.
ARKANSAS.]
ARKANSAS.
[ARKANSAS.
ARKANSAS.
|
(6
ucts exist here. Gold, too, it is said, has
been found. "There is," says a writer,
manganese enough in Arkansas to sup-
ply the world; in zinc it exceeds every
State except New Jersey, and has more
gypsum than all the other States except
Texas put together; while it is equally
well supplied with marble and salt." "Wild
Animals range the forests and swamps in
Arkansas as in Texas; and quails, wild
turkeys, geese, and other birds abound.
Trout and other fish are plentiful in the
rivers and streams. The ordinance of
secession, which took (nominally) Arkan-
sas out of the Union, was passed against
strenuous and long-continued opposition,
6th May, 1861. Arkansas is most easily
and expeditiously reached from New Or-
leans by steam packets, which leave daily
for the Red and Ouichita, the Arkansas,
and White Rivers. The same general direc-
tion will serve the traveller from Memphis
and other points on the Mississippi River
between that city and New Orleans. The
Arkansas River, rising in the Rocky
Mountains, flows from the Indian Territory
on the west, and traverses the middle of
the State for 500 miles, gathering up in
its long course the waters of many tribu-
tary streams, and bearing them to the
great floods of the Mississippi. The entire
length of this river is 2,000 miles. It is
navigable for steamers 800 miles. Next
to the Missouri the Arkansas is the largest
tributary of the Mississippi. The White
River is 800 miles in length. It is navi-
gable from the Mississippi-into which it
debouches, not far from the mouth
of the Arkansas-350 miles to the
mouth of the Black River, and at
some periods of the year 30 miles yet
higher up, to Batesville. As along the
other rivers of Arkansas, the cypress cov-
ers the swamps of the Mississippi vicinage,
ARKANSAS, which adjoins Texas on the
north, is also one of the younger States,
having been admitted into the Union as
late as 1836. It was settled by the French
at Arkansas Post, about 1685, and until
1803 formed part of the Territory of
Louisiana. Its history has no very marked
points, beyond rude frontier contests
with the Indian tribes. It is a wild, des-
olate region of swamps, marshes, and
lagoons, for a hundred miles back from
the Mississippi River. This great plain
is broken at intervals by elevations some-
times thirty miles in circuit. At flood
periods, when the land is inundated, these
points become temporary islands. Exten-
sive levées have been constructed along
the banks of the river, by which means
much of this vast tract will eventually be
converted into valuable land, with a soil
of the richest nature. The Ozark Moun-
tains bisect the State unequally. The mid-
dle regions, and the district north of the
Ozark ranges, have a broken and varied
surface. The climate, soil, vegetation,
and products of the lower portion of Ar-
kansas, are all similar to those of the
other Southwestern States; while the hilly
regions above have, in all these respects,
the more Northern characteristics. The
southern section is unhealthy, while the
uplands are as salubrious as any part of
the Union. The rich, black alluvion of
the river yields Indian corn in great
luxuriance. This product, with cotton, to-
bacco, rice, many varieties of grain, wool,
hops, hemp, flax, and silk, constitute its
staple products. The Forest Trees include
cotton-wood, gum, ash, and cypress in the
bottom lands, and the usual vegetation
of the North in the uplands. The sugar-
maple, yielding large supplies of sap, is
found here. Coal, iron, zinc, lead, gypsum,
manganese, salt, and other mineral prod-
|
117
1
LITTLE ROCK.]
[CAMDEN.
and gives place to the pine and other vege- | west-northwest of Little Rock, within five
tation higher up. This stream has numer- miles of the Indian Territory. It is
ous large affluents, among them the Big pleasantly situated on the Arkansas
North Fork, Bryant's Fork, the Little River.
North Fork, and Buffalo Fork. The St.
Francis, the Red River, the Ouichita,
and other waters, bear the same general
characteristics as the streams already
mentioned. There are no lakes in this
State of especial extent or interest.
Railways have not thus far been much
needed in Arkansas, with her great facili-
ities of water communication and her
thin population. A route is now in prog-
ress from Memphis to Little Rock. This
line is completed at this time between the
former city and Madison.
ARKANSAS.
Arkansas Post is upon the Ar-
kansas River, some 50 miles from its
mouth. It is an ancient settlement, having
been occupied by the French as early as
1685. It was, for many years, the chief
depot of the peltries of the country far
around. Fort Hindman, a regular square
bastioned work mounting 12 guns and
garrisoned by 5,000 troops under General
Churchill, surrendered to the Federal
LITTLE ROCK.
300 miles from Napoleon; 155 from forces under Admiral Porter and General
Memphis.
Sherman, January 11, 1863.
Napoleon, 125 miles southeast of
Little Rock, is upon the Mississippi River,
at the mouth of the Arkansas. It is a
busy and thriving place. The United
States Marine Hospital here is a conspic-
uous building. Boats running on the
Mississippi and Arkansas Rivers, call
here. Passengers will find the best ac-
commodation the place affords on the
wharf boat.
HOTEL, Anthony House. Little Rock,
the capital of the State, with a population
of 5,000, is picturesquely situated on the
top of a rocky bluff-the first of these
characteristic precipices which is seen in
the ascent of the Arkansas River, 300
miles up. The State House is a handsome,
rough-cast brick edifice. The Penitentiary
is located here, and also a United States
Arsenal. This was seized by the State
troops early in the war of 1861-'65. Big
Rock, two miles above, on the north bank
of the river, is 200 feet high. The vicinity
affords many pleasant drives and rides.
Hot Springs is the name of a small
village 55 miles west of Little Rock.
These Springs were much resorted to be-
fore the war. They are possessed of
valuable medicinal qualities, and are es-
pecially beneficial in rheumatic and syph-
ilitic cases.
They are upwards of thirty
in number, and have an average tempera-
ture of 145°. The hotels have baths and
every convenience for visitors. Daily
stage to Little Rock.
Fort Smith is a thriving village on
the Arkansas River, 163 miles west-north-
west, by land, of Little Rock, and a few
miles by the river above Van Buren. It
is a military post, and has an extensive
Indian trade. Fort Gibson is on the
Neosho River, 23 miles above Fort Smith.
ROUTES FROM LITTLE ROCK.
Van Buren, the principal com-
mercial point in Arkansas, is 100 miles
118
Camden is on the Ouichita River, a
tributary of the Red River, by which it is
reached by steamboat from New Orleans.
It is distant 110 miles by stage from Lit-
tle Rock. It was a place of large cotton
export and trade before the war. Popu-
lation 3,500.
Batesville, with a population of
about 2,000, is upon the White River, 400
miles from its mouth. Small steamers
ascend at nearly all seasons. Batesville
is distant from Little Rock by stage 90
miles; from Memphis, Tenn., 115 miles.
Alabaster Mountain.-In Pike County,
on the Little Missouri River, there is a
mountain of alabaster, of fine quality,
and white as new-fallen snow. Natural
Bridge. In the neighborhood of the Ala-
baster Mountain there is a remarkable
natural bridge formation.
TENNESSEE.]
TENNESSEE.
TENNESSEE.
THE territory, which now forms the
State of Tennessee, was settled before
any other of the lands west of the Alle-
ghanies, Fort Loudon having been built
by adventurers from North Carolina as
early as 1757. The early history of the
country is, like that of the neighboring
State of Kentucky, full of the records of
bloody struggles with the Indian occu-
pants of the soil. The little band of
pioneers at Fort Loudon were not, of
course, suffered to rest peacefully in their
new home: on the contrary, they were
all either butchered or driven away. In
a few years, the axe of the white man
again rang through the wild forests, and
cabins dotted the land, gradually cluster-
ing into villages and towns. Tennessee
was admitted, in 1796, as the sixteenth
member of the American Union. She
played a distinguished part in the war of
1812. The landscape of Tennessee is
varied and picturesque, though none of
the great natural wonders of the Repub-
lic lie within her borders. Her mountain,
valley, and river scenery is exceedingly
beautiful, and will become famous as it
becomes better known. The Cumberland
Hills, and other ranges of the Appalachian
chain, pass through her western area,
separating her from North Carolina, and
shutting in the valleys of the Holston and
other rivers. The height of the moun-
tain ridges and summits here is va-
riously estimated at from 1,500 to 2,000
feet. They are most of them covered
with a rich forest growth to the top,
where the axe and the plough have not
changed their native character. The cen-
tral portion of the State, stretching from
the mountains to the Tennessee River,
has a broken surface, while beyond,
toward the Mississippi, which makes the
western boundary, the country is com-
[TENNESSEE.
paratively level. Many valuable mineral
products are found here-coal and iron in
great abundance, and rich deposits of
copper. Gold, too, has been detected,
and silver, lead, zinc, manganese, mag-
netic-iron ore, gypsum of superior quality,
and a great variety of beautiful marbles,
slate, nitre, burrstones, and limestone.
Salt and mineral springs, the latter of a
very valuable character, abound. The
climate here, excepting in the river low-
lands, is most agreeable and healthful;
exempt alike from the winter severities
of the North, and from the summer heats
of the South. Immense quantities of live-
stock are raised in Tennessee; more, in-
deed, than in any other part of the Union.
It is, too, a vast tobacco, cotton, and
corn-growing region. The culture of
hemp, buckwheat, rye, oats, barley, ma-
ple sugar, and many other agricultural
products occupy the industry and contrib-
ute to the wealth of the people.
RIVERS.-The Tennessee River enters
the State at its southeast extremity, from
North Carolina, and forms the chief
affluent of the Ohio. Its sources are
among the Alleghanies, in Virginia, flow-
ing under the names of the Clinch and
the Holston Rivers, until they unite at
Kingston, in Tennessee. The first course
of the main stream is southwest to Chat-
tanooga, near the point where the States
of Tennessee, Georgia, and Alabama
meet. From Chattanooga it turns tow-
ard the northwest, until the obstruc-
tion of the Cumberland Mountains bends
its current southward again, and sends it
off on a détour of 300 miles into Upper
Alabama and the northeast corner of
Mississippi. It gets back to Tennessee
at this point, and, for the second time,
traverses the entire breadth of the State,
119
1
(
TENNESSEE.
RAILWAYS.]
[NASHVILLE.
crosses Kentucky, and reaches the end | Cave. The Tennessee and Alabama Rail-
of its journey at Paducah, 48 miles from way, in operation southward to Colum-
the mouth of the Ohio. The length of bia; to be extended and connected
the Tennessee proper is about 800 miles; with routes from Mobile, Alabama, and
including its longest branch, the Holston, from New Orleans. East Tennessee and
its waters extend 1,100 miles. The only Georgia Railway, from Knoxville south-
important obstruction in the navigation west 112 miles to Chattanooga, con-
of the Tennessee is the 20 miles stretch necting with the railways of that State.
of rapids in Alabama known as the Mus- Now extended northeast, by the East Ten-
cle Shoals. (See Alabama.) Steamboats nessee and Virginia, to the railways of
ascend the river nearly 300 miles, to the Virginia; and west, from Knoxville to
foot of these rapids, and above, to Knox- Nashville. The Memphis and Charleston
ville, on the Holston, nearly 500 miles. Railway, 310 miles from Memphis to
A railway supplies the missing link in the Chattanooga, partly on the southern bor-
passage of the river, caused by the inter- ders of extreme Western Tennessee,
vention of the rapids. Knoxville and through the upper part of Mississippi
Chattanooga are the principal places on and Alabama, into East Tennessee. The
the Tenneessee. In Alabama, Tuscumbia Mississippi and Tennessee Railway, from
and Florence, and in Kentucky, Padu- Memphis south 99 miles to Grenada,
cah, are on its banks. The upper waters Miss., where it connects with the Missis-
of the Tennessee, and all that portion of sippi Central Railway to Jackson and
the river in the eastern and middle parts New Orleans. The Nashville and North-
of the State, are extremely beautiful, western Railway, from Nashville 78 miles
varied as the landscape is by wild moun- to Johnsonville, where it connects with
tain scenes and fertile pastoral lands. steamboats on the river. The Nashville
In the neighborhood of Chattanooga, and Deatur Railway, from Nashville 122
where the Lookout Mountain lifts its miles south to Decatur, connecting with
bold crest, the scenery is especially trains on the Memphis and Charleston
attractive. It would be difficult to find Railway. The Nashville and Clarksville
a more charming picture than that from Railway, from Nashville 29 miles to
the summit of the Lookout Mountain, Springfield, where it makes connection
over the smiling valley of the Tennes- with roads to Clarksville and Memphis.
see, and the capricious windings of the
river. The chief tributaries of the Ten-
nessee besides the two branches from
which it is formed-the Holston and
the Clinch-are the Hiawassee, from
Georgia, the Hatchee, and the Duck
River. All the waters of the State are
ultimately absorbed by the Mississippi,
its western boundary. The Cumber-
land makes an extensive circuit of 250
miles through Middle Tennessee. It is
navigable for large boats to Nashville in
good stages of water.
RAILWAYS.-The Nashville and Chatta-
nooga Railway, 151 miles from Nashville,
in the north central part of the State, to
Chattanooga, near the Georgia and Ala-
bama lines, connecting with the Georgia
and South Carolina Railway system. The
Louisville and Nashville Railway, from
Nashville north 185 miles to Louisville,
Ky., via Bowling Green and Cave City,
the point of departure for the Mammoth
NASHVILLE.
684 miles from Washington, 185 from
Louisville.
HOTELS. Stacey House and St. Cloud,
both centrally located on Church Street.
The former opened in January, 1866, is
newly furnished. Charges at both these
houses, $3.50 per day.
|
Nashville, the capital of Tennessee,
and the most important city in the
Commonwealth, is most agreeably sit-
uated on the south side of Cumberland
River, at the head of steamboat naviga-
tion. The principal portion of the city
is constructed upon a ridge, the highest
point of which is about 108 feet above
low-water mark. The first settlement
was made in 1779-'80 by a party of North
Carolina emigrants, and the town estab-
lished by act of the Assembly of that
B
120
NASHVILLE.]
[VICINITY.
mer.
|
State, May, 1784. Owing to its healthy | foundation of solid stone, and contains
location, it is the resort of numbers from four niches in the basement and eight in
the lower country during the heat of sum- the principal story, with spacious halls
Both the public and private build-leading to the right and left. The Library
ings of Nashville are creditable to the numbers upwards of 12,000 volumes. All
taste and liberality of its citizens. The the materials used in the construction of
Capitol may justly be considered one of the Capitol were furnished within the
the finest edifices on the continent. It is State. Its cost was nearly one million
an elegant and imposing structure, and dollars. Judged by the present standard
covers an eminence which rises to the of prices, it may be considered one of the
height of 197 feet above the river. The cheapest as well as finest public buildings
corner-stone was laid July 4, 1845. It in the United States.
is built of fine fossilated limestone, much
like marble, which was quarried on the
spot. Many of the blocks weigh ten tons
each. Its dimensions are 270 by 140
feet. Its architecture is Grecian, consist-
ing of a Doric basement, and supporting
on its four fronts Ionic porticoes, modelled
after those of the Erectheum at Athens.
In the centre of the building is a tower
80 feet high. The basement or crypt of
the building is used as a depository of
arms. The principal story is approached
by a double flight of stairs, which lead to
the chambers of the Senate and House of
Representatives, the Library, etc. The
Senate Chamber is a handsome apart-
ment, 35 by 70 feet, with a gallery, the
columns supporting which, and the desks,
are of the beautiful East Tennessee mar-
ble. The Hall of Representatives con-
tains sixteen fluted columns of the Ro-
man Ionic order, two feet eight inches in
diameter, and twenty-one feet ten inches
in height, from the level of the galleries
over the committee-rooms. The shafts of
these columns are all in one piece. The
dimensions of this room are 100 feet by
70-height of ceiling from floor, 40 feet.
The beauty and convenience in the design
of the principal story, so much superior
to the plan of the Capitol at Washington,
is, that the committee-rooms are on the
same plan with, and surrounding the Hall
of Representatives. In the display of
native marbles in this hall, consists the
greatest attraction of this magnificent
structure. Flanking the public hall
private stairways are constructed, leading
from the crypt to the various stories, and
to the roof. A geometrical stairway leads
from the level of the roof to the top of
the tower, where you land upon an arched
platform, which is intended for an Obser-
vatory. The tower is built from the
6
TENNESSEE.
The seat of Government has been al-
ternately
ternately located at Columbia, Mur-
freesboro', and Nashville. The Lunatic
Asylum, built in 1833, and the Peniten-
tiary, are large, imposing buildings. The
latter has a front of 300 feet, and con-
tains 200 cells. The City Hall occupies
a prominent location on Market Square.
The University of Nashville, founded in
1806, is worthy a visit. Its Medical De-
partment, opened in 1851, has nearly one
hundred students. The mineral cabinet
of the late Dr. Troost, is the richest pri-
vate collection in the United States. Ap-
plication to inspect it should be made to
John B. Lindsey, Chancellor of the Uni-
versity. The fine wire suspension bridge
which formerly spanned the Cumberland
River opposite the city, and which cost
$100,000, was destroyed by the Confeder-
ate authorities, February, 1862. Nashville
has two theatres; one on Cherry, near
Cedar, and the other known as the "New"
Theatre, corner of Union and Summer
Sts. The former, under the management
of Messrs. Duffield & Flynn, is a well-con-
ducted establishment. The city has in-
creased in population rapidly since the
war, and now claims 45,000 inhabitants.
No less than eight daily newspapers are
published here. The social attractions of
Nashville are not excelled by those of
any city in the South. Nashville has im-
mediate connection by rail with all the
principal cities north and south, east and
west. Boats to St. Louis and Cincinnati
semi-weekly.
Edgefield is a pleasant village opposite
Nashville. Laid out in 1849.
The Hermitage.-The traveller while
in this vicinage will not fail to make
a pilgrimage to the sopt sacred as the
hearthstone of General and President
Andrew Jackson.
121
MEMPHIS.]
TENNESSEE.
[CHATTANOOGA.
Memphis, 420 miles from St. | stay. Stone River, where the battle was
Louis, 209 from Nashville. HOTELS, fought, 31st December, 1862, is one mile
Gayoso, Worsham, and Commercial. from the town. It is yet called Murfrees-
Memphis is finely situated upon the boro' by the people in the vicinity. At
Third Chickasaw Bluff of the Mississippi, Fisterville, 13 miles south of Murfrees-
at the mouth of the Wolf River. It boro', are the remains of a fort. Bridge-
is in the southwest corner of the State, port is a strongly fortified point at the
upon the site of old Fort Pickering. crossing of Tennessee River.
The city presents a striking appearance
as seen from the water, with its es-
planade several hundred feet in width
sweeping along the bluff and covered
with large warehouses. It is the chief
town on the Mississippi between New
Orleans and St. Louis. Railways unite it
at all points with the neighboring country
and with the most distant towns, north,
east, south, and west. The hotel accom-
modations are ample, though by no means
excellent. The Theatre, corner of Jeffer-
son and Third Streets, is one of the best
in the South. It has seats for upwards of
800. A city railroad company is now
organized, and it is expected that cars
will soon be in operation on Main Street
and the leading thoroughfares. It has
steamboat connections daily with New
Orleans, St. Louis, Cincinnati, Louisville,
and all points on the Mississippi and Ohio
Rivers. The Memphis Library Associa-
tion has its rooms in the Post-Office build-
ing, corner Third and Jefferson Streets.
The collection of books numbers nearly
2,000. The city is divided into eight
wards. It contains twenty churches and
twenty-four public schools, built mostly
of brick. The State Female College is
located at Greenwood, two miles south-
east of the city. The Memphis Female
College and St. Agnes Female Academy
are flourishing institutions. The popula-
tion has more than quadrupled since 1850
in spite of the war, and now numbers
nearly 30,000. It fell into the possession
of the United States forces, June, 1862,
after a brief period of rebellion.
Murfreesboro', 32 miles below
Nashville, is passed on the railway
route to Chattanooga and Atlanta. The
town is built in a beautiful and pic-
turesque valley. It is the seat of the
Union University (Baptist), established
in 1841. Murfreesboro' was the capital
of Tennessee from 1817 to 1827, when
the State House was burnt. It is a
pleasant point at which to make a short
|
Chattanooga is upon the Ten-
nessee River, in the southern part of
the State, where its boundary is touched
by Alabama and Georgia. It is 250
miles from Knoxville by water, and 150
miles southeast of Nashville. It is
a great railway centre, being the ter-
minus of the Nashville and Chattanooga
and Western and Atlantic Railways, which
tap the Georgia routes, reaching to Knox-
ville, and thence through Viriginia; and
upon the great line from Charleston, S. C.,
to the Mississippi at Memphis. The Ten-
nessee River is navigable two-thirds of
the year, and at all times for small boats,
from the Muscle Shoals to Chattanooga.
Population about 7,000. (See Lookout
Mountain, in the chapter upon Georgia,
for the beautiful landscape surroundings
of Chattanooga). The Crutchfield House is
a well-kept hotel near the railroad depot.
Chickamauga Battle-Field is distant from
the city 7 miles southeast. The road
thither is good for horses only. The
Lookout Mountain is within easy riding
distance of Chattanooga. On the sum-
mit of this beautiful spur the northwest
corner of Georgia and the northeast ex-
tremity of Alabama meet on the southern
boundary of Tennessee. Almost in the
shadow of the Lookout heights lies the
busy town of Chattanooga. The country
around the "Lookout" is extremely
picturesque; the views all about the
mountain itself are admirable, and noth-
ing can exceed in beauty the charming
valley of the Tennessee and its waters, as
seen from its lofty summit. It is, too, in
the immediate vicinage of other remarka-
ble localities, the Dogwood Valley, hard
by, and the Nickajack Cave in Alabama.
The scenes on Lookout, best worth visit-
ing, are Lake Seclusion, Lulah Falls, the
Battle-Field, and Rock City. Guides are
in attendance throughout the visiting
W. R. M. Lunn, photographic
artist, supplies excellent pictures of these
several views. His gallery is on the ex-
season.
122
COLUMBIA.]
treme point of the mountain. The fol-
lowing brief outline of the operations at
Lookout, gleaned from the official report
of General Grant, will interest the reader:
The Battle of Lookout Mountain was
fought on the 23d November, 1863, be-
tween the forces under Hooker, consist-
ing of Geary's division (12th corps) and
2d brigade of Stanley's division (4th
corps) of Thomas's army, and Osterhaus's
division (15th corps) of Sherman's army.
Hooker scaled the western slope of the
mountain, drove the enemy from his rifle-
pits on the northern extremity and slope
of the mountain. The fight lasted from ten
to four P. M., when the rebels gradually
withdrew, leaving their artillery, etc. This
battle has been greatly magnified. It
was really nothing more than an extended
skirmish. On the night of the 24th the
Union forces maintained an unbroken line
with open communications from the north
end of Lookout Mountain through Chat-
tanooga valley, to the north end of Mis-
sion Ridge.
TENNESSEE.
The Nickajack Cave.-The mouth of
this wonderful cavern, which has only to
be known in order to be famous, is in
Alabama, although otherwise it traverses
Georgia territory. (See chapter on Ala-
bama.)
[KNOXVILLE.
ference College. The Capitol of the State
was once located here.
There are some other mountain and
waterfall pictures in Georgia besides
those in the upper tier of counties, a few
isolated scenes lower down standing as
outposts to the hill-region, as Mount Cur-
rahee, the Rock Mountain, and the Falls
of Towalaga.
Knoxville is upon the Holston Riv-
er, four miles from its junction with the
French Broad, 185 miles east of Nash-
ville, and 204 miles southeast of Lexing-
ton, Kentucky. It is connected by the
East Tennessee and Georgia Railway with
all the great routes of Georgia to the
Atlantic, and with the highway to New
Orleans, via Montgomery and Mobile, in
Alabama; also by the East Tennessee and
Virginia Railway, with Richmond, Vir-
ginia, and all the great thoroughfares of
the country. The great route from Boston
to New Orleans now passes through Knox-
ville. The city is delightfully situated,
and affords a pleasant place of resort. It
was laid out in 1794, in which year it be-
came the capital of the State, and so con-
tinued until 1817. The University of
East Tennessee, founded 1807, is a fine
building. The State Asylum for the Deaf
and Dumb is also a prominent edifice.
Population 10,000. The place is famous
for its manufacture of window-glass.
Caves and Mounds in Tennessee.-
While in Eastern Tennessee the traveller
should not fail to see some of the numer-
ous caves in the Cumberland Mountains.
Upon the Enchanted Rock, here, are some
singular impressions of the feet of men
and animals. In Coffee County, not far
from Manchester, there is an ancient stone
fort, enclosed by a wall, upon which trees
are growing, whose age is supposed to ex-
ceed 500 years. This mysterious fortifi-
cation is situated between two rivers, and
Con-occupies an area of 47 acres.
123
Columbia is upon the Duck River,
46 miles south of Nashville, upon the
Nashville and Decatur Railway. Jackson
College is located here. The educational
institutions of the town are important.
The most prominent are the Female
Athenæum, Female Institute, and
Jackson is upon the Forked Deer
River, 180 miles below Nashville by stage.
The Mobile and Ohio Railway passes here.
Lebanon, the seat of the Cumber-
land University, is 30 miles east of Nash-
ville by stage.
KENTUCKY.]
KENTUCKY.
[KENTUCKY.
KENTUCKY.
|
"THE highest phase of Western char- | colonists were routed, with a loss of sixty
acter," says Mr. Tuckerman, "is doubt- men, among them a son of the gallant
less to be found in Kentucky, and in one Boone. In 1778 Du Quesne, with his
view best illustrates the American in dis- Canadian and Indian army, was bravely
tinction from European civilization. In repulsed at Boonesborough. Kentucky
the North this is essentially modified by came into the Union in 1792, being the
the cosmopolite influence of the seaboard, second State admitted after the Revolu-
and in the South by a climate which tion. During the rebellion of 1861–265
assimilates her people with those of the Kentucky, from her geographical situ-
same latitudes elsewhere; but in the West, ation on the border, occupied a difficult
and especially in Kentucky, we find the and delicate position. For a long time
foundations of social existence laid by the she refused to side either with the North
hunter-whose love of the woods, equality or the South. On the 4th May, 1861, an
of condition, habits of sport and agricul- election for delegates to the Border State
ture, and distance from conventionalities, Convention was held, at which the vote
combine to nourish independence, strength was overwhelmingly in favor of the Union.
of mind, candor, and a fresh and genial The Convention met at Frankfort on the
spirit. The ease and freedom of social 27th of May. Volunteers from Kentucky
intercourse, the abeyance of the passion entered both the Union and Confederate
for gain, and the scope given to the play service. On the 4th of July the Louisville
of character, accordingly developed a race and Nashville Railway, the main thorough-
of noble aptitudes; and we can scarcely fare of the State, was seized by the Con-
imagine a more appropriate figure in the federate soldiers, and shortly afterwards
foreground of the picture than Daniel closed. The towns of Hickman and Co-
Boone, who embodies the honesty, intel- lumbus were occupied by Confederate
ligence, and chivalric spirit of the State." troops under the command of General
The first visit of Boone to the wilderness Polk. On the 18th September a skirmish
of Kentucky was about the year 1769, at between Zollicoffer's troops and the Home
which period he and his hardy companions Guards took place near Barboursville.
made the earliest settlement at Boones- By 1st December the number of Federal
borough. In 1774 Harrodsburg was troops in the State amounted to 70,000.
begun, and Lexington a year or two after- The forces of the enemy, under General
wards. The pioneers in their western Buckner, were estimated at 30,000. Early
forests met with all the adventure their in 1862 active military operations were
hearts could desire-more, indeed; for so commenced, and continued throughout
great was their exposure and suffering, the year, when the campaign in Kentucky
for many long years, from the cruel enmity was virtually abandoned by the rebels.
of the savage populations, that the country The physical aspect of Kentucky is one
came to be known as 'the dark and of changing and wonderful beauty, as the
bloody ground.” A memorable battle traveller will see in visiting some of her
was fought near the Blue Lick Springs, marvellous natural scenes. The Cumber-
August 19, 1782, between the Ken- land Mountains traverse the eastern coun-
tuckians and the Indians-an unequal ties, and a line of hills follows the course
and disastrous conflict, in which the of the Ohio River, with meadow stretches
124
RIVERS.]
between, sometimes ten and even twenty
miles in width. The State is well supplied
with coal, iron, and other minerals. Salt
and mineral springs of great repute
abound. The chief agricultural staples
of this region are hemp, flax, tobacco, and
Indian corn.
Of the first two of these
products a greater quantity is raised here
than in any other State. In the produc-
tion of tobacco Kentucky is second only
to Virginia, and in the product of Indian
corn she stands third in the list.
KENTUCKY.
|
RIVERS.-The Ohio River forms the en-
tire northern boundary of Kentucky, and
the Mississippi washes all her western
shore; thus giving her, with the aid of the
many streams which come from the in-
terior of the State into these great high-
ways, the greatest possible facilities for
travel, and for the transportation of her
staples to all markets.
The Kentucky River, like most of the
streams of the State, is remarkable for
picturesque beauty. Its passage, in a
course of 200 miles northwest to the
Ohio, is often through bold limestone
ledges, ranged on either side of the
narrow, dark channel in grand perpen-
dicular cliffs. ((
'Deepen Trenton Falls,"
says Mr. Willis, "for one or two hundred
feet, smoothe its cascades into a river,
and extend it for thirty miles between
perpendicular precipices, from three to
five hundred feet high, and only a biscuit-
toss across at the top-and you have a
river of whose remarkable beauty the
world is strangely ignorant."
The Cumberland River is one of the
largest of the tributaries of the Ohio. It
has its source in the Cumberland Moun-
tains, in the southeast corner of the State,
and flows 600 miles, making a bend into
Tennessee, and then traversing western
Kentucky. It is navigable for steamers
200 miles to Nashville, and sometimes to
Carthage, while small craft may ascend
300 miles yet higher. About 14 miles
from Williamsburg there is a fine perpen-
dicular fall of 60 feet.
The Licking River flows from the
Cumberland Mountains, 200 miles, into
the Ohio, opposite Cincinnati. Steamboats
may ascend 50 miles to Falmouth. This
river varies in width from 50 to 100 yards.
Its banks are often lofty and precipitous,
[LOUISVILLE:
covered with huge forest trees. The
South Licking and the North Fork are
among its tributaries.
The Green River is about 300 miles in
length. It rises in the eastern section of
the State, and flows westward for some
150 miles, through the limestone regions
and by the Mammoth Cave, finally enter-
ing the Ohio nine miles above Evansville,
Indiana. It is navigable in high water,
and by the aid of locks and dams, for
steamboats, 200 miles to Greensburg.
The Salt River, named in token of the
Salt Springs which abound in its vicinity,
enters the Ohio 22 miles below Louisville.
This is the fabled retreat of defeated poli-
ticians and other unhappy adventurers.
The Tennessee River rises among the
Cumberland Mountains of Eastern Ken-
tucky, and flows 70 miles within the
limits of this State. (See Tennessec.)
RAILWAYS.-The Louisville and Nash-
ville Railway from Louisville, via Shep-
herdsville (18 miles), Lebanon Junction
(30), Elizabethtown (42), Munfordsville
(73), Cave City (85), Bowling Green (114),
to Nashville (185). Immediate connec-
tion at Louisville and Nashville with
roads North and South.
|
Lebanon Branch (L. and N. R. R.) from
Lebanon Junction (30), Lebanon (66),
Danville (95), to Stanford, 105 miles.
The Kentucky Central (Covington and
Lexington) Railway from Covington (op-
posite Cincinnati), via Falmouth (39),
Cynthiana (66), Paris (80), to Lexington
(99 miles), where it connects with the
Lexington and Southern Kentucky Rail-
way to Nicholasville (112 miles).
The Louisville and Frankfort and Lex-
ington and Frankfort Railway, 94 miles
from Louisville to Lexington, via Frank-
fort.
LOUISVILLE.
133 miles from Cincinnati by river,
94 from Lexington. To reach Louisville
from Boston, New York, Philadelphia,
Baltimore, and intermediate places, see
Cincinnati and routes to that city.
From Cincinnati, take the steamer down
the Ohio River, 133 miles to Louis-
ville; or the Ohio and Mississippi Rail-
way 87 miles to Seymour, and thence by
125
[VICINITY.
|
This
They are, for the most part, wide, well
paved, and shaded with trees. The fol-
lowing are among the most prominent
buildings: the City Hall, the Court House,
on Jefferson Street; the Louisville Uni-
versity Medical College, corner Ninth and
Chestnut Streets; the Blind Asylum,
Male and Female High Schools, the Cus-
tom House, and Post-Office, corner Greene
and Third Streets; Masonic Temple, cor-
ner Fourth and Greene. Among the
church edifices of the city the most note-
the Jeffersonville Railway 59 miles to
Jeffersonville, opposite Louisville.
is the shortest land route. Total distance
to Louisville from Cincinnati, 146 miles.
Louisville may also be reached less di-
rectly but more pleasantly from Cincinnati
by the Kentucky Central Railway (Cov-
ington and Lexington), 99 miles to Lex-
ington, and thence by the Louisville and
Lexington Railway via Frankfort, 94
miles. The distance from Cincinnati to
Louisville, by this route, is 193 miles.
Louisville may be reached from Pitts-worthy are: the Cathedral, on Walnut
burg, the western terminus of the Penn- Street, corner of Fifth; St. Paul's Epis-
sylvania Central Railway, from Philadel- copal, at the intersection of Walnut and
phia or from Wheeling, the western ter- Sixth; and the First Presbyterian Church,
minus of the Baltimore and Ohio Railway, opposite. The First Baptist Church is
by steamboat down the Ohio. From St. also an imposing structure. The Mercan-
Louis there is railway communication by tile Library contains upwards of 7,000
the Ohio and Mississippi to Mitchell (213 volumes. The collection of the Histori-
miles), and thence by the Louisville, New cal Society contains many rare and val-
Albany and Chicago Railway, 61 miles. uable works relative to the early settle-
From Indianapolis the route is by the ment of the State. The "Journal" (still
Jeffersonville Railway, 108 miles.
conducted by the veteran poet and politi
cian Prentice) and the "Democrat " are
the leading newspapers published in the
city. The Louisville Theatre, another of
the "institutions" of the city, is at the
southeast corner of Fourth and Greene
Streets. "Wood's" Theatre, also a pop-
ular place of resort, is at the intersection
of Jefferson with Fourth Streets. Tem-
perance Hall, in Market Street, is used
for lectures, fairs, etc.
The chief exports
of the city are tobacco, pork, hemp, and
flour. A visit to the tobacco warehouses,
which are large and numerous, will repay
the stranger who finds himself with the
necessary leisure.
HOTELS.-The Louisville Hotel, on Main
Street, is a commodious and well-kept
house. The National and United States
Hotels are centrally located.
|
Louisville, with a population of about
80,000, is the chief city of Kentucky. It
is located at the Falls of the Ohio, where
Bear Grass Creek enters that river. The
topography is most agreeable, affording
fine views from many parts of the terrace
elevation of 70 feet. The Falls, which
The Falls, which
are quite picturesque in appearance, may
be seen from the town. In high stages
of the water they almost entirely disap-
pear, and steamboats pass over them; but
when the water is low, the whole width
of the river, which is scarcely less than a
mile, has the appearance of a great many
broken rivers of foam, making their way
over the falls. The river is divided by a
fine island, which adds to the beauty of
the scene.
To obviate the obstruction to
the navigation caused by the falls, a canal
two and a half miles in length has been
cut round them, to a place called Ship-
pingsport. It was a work of immense
labor, being for the greater part of its
course cut through the solid rock. The
total cost of the work was little short of
a million dollars. The extent of the city
riverward is over two miles. The course
of the leading streets is in this direction.
LOUISVILLE.]
KENTUCKY.
VICINITY.
Jeffersonville, on the Indiana shore, op-
posite Louisville, is the terminus of the
railway to Indianapolis, and a place of
much trade.
Portland, a village on the Ohio River,
at the foot of the falls, three miles below
Louisville.
Silver Creek, four miles below the city,
on the Indiana side, is a beautiful rocky
stream, and a favorite fishing and picnic
place of the Louisville ruralizers. There
is a small but fair hotel here. It is
reached by ferry from Portland.
Harrod's Creek, eight miles up the
126
COVINGTON.]
Ohio, affords a pleasant excursion. The
Lexington and Bardstown turnpikes afford
many pleasant drives through a pretty
and well-cultivated country. The road
along the borders of Bear Grass Creek,
in the direction of Lexington, is very
agreeable. The fine forest vegetation,
the charming park-like groves, the hemp-
fields and the blue-grass pastures, all
help to furnish delight in the Louisville
rides and rambles.
KENTUCKY.
Cave Hill Cemetery is much admired
for its monuments. It is in the imme-
diate suburb of the city eastward. (For
excursion to the Mammoth Cave, see
Louisville and Nashville Railway.)
Covington, opposite Cincinnati, is
one of the principal cities of Kentucky,
with a population of about 17,000. It is
upon the Ohio, immediately below its
point of confluence with the Licking.
Across the latter stream is the suburban
town of Newport. Steam ferries unite
Covington with Cincinnati, and the great
suspension bridge will soon make a yet
better means of communication thence.
The city is built upon a broad and beau-
tiful plain, very much after the topog-
raphy of the great Ohio city opposite, to
which, indeed, it may be regarded as sub-
urban. This is the seat of the Western
Theological College, a prosperous and
richly-endowed institution. There are
here large manufactories of hemp, silk,
and tobacco, also several large rolling-
mills. The business of packing pork and
beef is also extensively carried on. It
is the northern terminus of the Kentucky
Central Railway.
Newport, across the Licking River
from Covington, has a population of
about 14,000. Like the neighboring cit-
ies of Covington and Cincinnati, to which
it owes its prosperity, it is pleasantly and
advantageously situated. It will prob-
ably soon absorb the adjoining villages
of Jamestown and Brooklyn. A suspen-
sion bridge connects it with Covington.
LEXINGTON.
miles further, is the confluence of the
Hueston and Stony Creeks, which are also
crossed over a stone viaduct. Paris is
the county seat of Bourbon County, the
centre of one of the finest stock-raising
districts of the State.
Falmouth (39 miles), in Pendleton
County, is prettily situated on a beautiful
plain, watered by the Licking and the
South Branch, which here unite their wa-
The neighborhood abounds in fine
ters.
views.
The Railway route to Lexington from
Covington runs southerly to the thriv-
ing towns of Falmouth, Cynthiana, and
Paris, 99 miles to Lexington. At Fal-
mouth the road crosses the south branch
of the Licking River, along the banks
of which stream the road mainly runs
as far as Cynthiana. At Paris, 40
Cynthiana (66 miles), on the south
fork of the Licking River, was incorpo-
rated in 1802. It has accommodation
for visitors. Fine fishing in the vicinity.
Paris (80 miles), the county town of
Bourbon County, is the centre of one of
the finest farming districts of the State.
The manufacture of the famous Bourbon
whiskey is extensively carried on in sev-
eral large distilleries. To lovers of that
somewhat popular beverage, no stronger
inducement to sojourn here is deemed
necessary. The Blue Lick Springs are
reached by stage from this point.
|
Lexington, 29 miles from Frank-
fort; 94 from Louisville; 100 from Cin-
cinnati.
HOTEL, the Phonix House, an excellent
house, newly arranged and refurnished.
Lexington is one of the most opulent and
beautiful of Kentucky's cities. Few in-
land towns of the Union are more delight-
fully situated, or afford greater attractions
to the tourist or traveller. It is situated
on the lower fork of the Elkhorn River,
In population and trade it is the second
city of the State. The streets are regular,
broad, well paved, well built, and delight-
fully shaded. Here is the seat of the
Kentucky University, on the ruins of
Transylvania University, the Law and
Medical schools of which are held in high
repute. This has been established in 1865.
It has an endowment of $500,000. The
students number 250. The University
Library numbers over 25,000 volumes.
The State Lunatic Asylum occupies a
prominent locale. The city was founded
in 1776, and incorporated in 1782. Its
population exceeds 10,000. Lexington
Cemetery, in the west end of the city, is
a pretty, sequestered spot, much frequent-
ed by visitors to Lexington. It contains
60 acres, mostly woodland. It was laid
127
ASHLAND.]
KENTUCKY.
|
out in 1849, in what was known as Bos-
well's woods, and dedicated June, 1850.
About 4,000 interments have been made
up to this time, 1866. The chief attraction
of the place is the monument to Ken-
tucky's illustrious statesman, HENRY CLAY.
It stands on an eminence near the centre
of the ground, and can be seen for miles
around. The corner stone was laid July
4, 1857, and the structure completed in
1860, at a cost of $50,000-the State
subscribing $20,000.
[FRANKFORT.
throng of pilgrims continually pouring
thither, as though it were a wilderness.
After the death of Mr. Clay, the estate of
Ashland was sold at public auction, but
was purchased by James B. Clay, the
great statesman's eldest son, and so
the honored and beloved little homestead
remains yet, happily, in the family pos-
session. Let it be sacredly and forever
preserved." The visitor to Ashland now
will find the scene much changed since
Mr. Greeley's visit. It is stripped of much
of its beauty. The old homestead has
been replaced by a house of more pre-
tentious style, but in other respects as
much like the old one as it was possible
to make it. It is occupied by the widow
of the late Colonel Clay, who kindly al-
lows it to be shown to visitors. It has
recently been resold for a public purpose.
Woodburn, the estate of Mr. R.
A. Alexander, is in Woodford County.
near Spring Station, on the Lexington
and Frankfort Railway, nearly equidistant
from these two points. It contains over
2,000 acres of land, and is one of the
largest and most valuable farms in the
State. The collection of thorough-bred
stock at Woodburn is the finest in the
United States. The famous thorough-bred
stallion Lexington, purchased from his
late owner, Mr. Tenbroeck, at a cost of
$15,000, is among the many and varied
attractions of Woodburn. It is an easy
walk from the Spring Station to Mr. Alex-
ander's mansion.
(6
Ashland, the home of Clay, is
in the immediate vicinity. The old
Clay homestead stood about a mile
and a half from Lexington, and the lo-
cality is, of course, the chief object of in-
terest in this neighborhood. "Walking
slowly and thoughtful up," says Mr. Gree-
ley, a noble avenue that leads easterly
from Lexington, the traveller finds the
road terminating abruptly in front of a
modest, spacious, agreeable mansion, only
two stories in height, and of no great ar-
chitectural pretensions. Mr. Clay lived at
Ashland between forty and fifty years.
The place bore the name when he went to
it, probably, as he said himself, on ac-
count of the ash timber with which it
abounds, and he made it one of the most
delightful retreats in all the West. The
estate is about 600 acres large, all under
the highest cultivation, except some 200
acres of park which is entirely cleared of
underbrush and small trees, and is, to use
the words of Lord Morpeth, who stayed
at Ashland nearly a week, the nearest ap-
proach to an English park of any in this
country. It serves for a noble pasture,
and here Mr. Clay had some of the finest
horses and cattle in America. The larger
part of the farm is devoted to wheat, rye,
hemp, etc., and the crops look most splen-
did. Mr. Clay paid great attention to the
ornamentation of the land with beautiful
shade trees, shrubs, flowers, and fruit or-
chards. From the road which passes the
place on the northwest side, a carriage-
way leads up to the house, lined with lo-
cust, cypress, cedar, and other rare trees,
and the rose, jasmine, and ivy clamber
about them, and peep through the grass
and the boughs like so many twinkling
fairies. The mansion is nearly hiddened
from the road by the surrounding trees;
and is as quiet and secluded, save to the
Frankfort, the capital of Ken-
tucky, is situated on the east bank of the
Kentucky River, 60 miles above its en-
trance into the Ohio. The site of the
town is a deep valley, surrounded by pre-
cipitous hills. The river flows between deep
limestone banks, the quarries of which
yield a fine stone or marble, of which
many of the houses are built. The heights
on the northeast afford fine peeps at the
beautiful scenery of the Kentucky waters.
The ruins of the State Capitol occupy
an eminence, midway between the river
and the upper end of the valley. It was
a fine structure, built of marble, quarried
in the neighborhood. Here, too, is the
State Penitentiary. The town is connect-
with the village of South Frankfort,
across the river, by a chain bridge. Pop-
ulation some 8,000. During the late rebel-
128
PADUCAH.]
[THE MAMMOTH CAVE.
cavalry on the 6th September, 1862, but
the damage to the capitol buildings was
caused accidentally by fire in December,
1865.
lion the city was occupied by Confederate | stone Creek, whose name it formerly bore.
The position of the town is in the midst
of a varied hill-landscape. It is, in busi-
ness and population, the fourth city of
Kentucky, and its greatest hemp mart.
This is the entrepot for the merchandise
and produce imported and exported by
the northwest section of the State.
Among the principal public buildings are
the City Hall, a Hospital, Jail, and several
churches. Population 6,000. (For towns
in Kentucky on the Ohio River, see Ohio
River.)
|
KENTUCKY.
|
Rossersville, near Richmond, 50
miles south of Frankfort, was the scene
of a fight between General Kirby Smith's
forces and a small Federal force, in which
the latter were routed.
Harrodsburg, a town of over
3,000 people, and the oldest settlement in
Kentucky, is upon an eminence near Salt
River, about 30 miles below Frankfort.
The first cabin built in the State was
erected here by Captain James Harrod,
in 1774. It is the seat of Bacon College,
founded in 1836, and of a Military Acad-
emy. The greatest attraction, however,
of Harrodsburg, is its celebrated mineral
springs, which make it the most famous
summer resort in the State. Good roads
extend throughout the neighborhood. (See
Harrodsburg Springs.)
Munfordsville, on the right
bank of Green River, 73 miles south of
Louisville and 100 miles south of Frank-
fort, is a place often visited by tourists
through this section. Near the village is
a remarkable spring, and six miles east
other natural curiosities. (See Sink-Holes
of Kentucky.) The neighborhood was
the scene of numerous encounters be-
tween Generals Buell and Bragg, in the
campaign of 1862. The fine bridge over
Green River, destroyed during the war,
has been replaced. Twelve miles south
of Munfordsville is Cave City Station, the
point of departure for the Mammoth Cave.
Paducah is upon the Ohio, just be-
low the mouth of the Tennessee, 340 miles
from Louisville, 473 miles from Cincin-
nati. Paducah bears the name of an
Indian chief who once lived in the neigh-
borhood. On account of its favorable
situation at the confluence of two great
rivers, it was a point of much importance
during the war, for the shipment of am-
munition and supplies. Population 6,000.
Maysville, founded in 1784, is upon
the Ohio River, 60 miles above Cincinnati,
and 60 miles northeast of Lexington.
At Portsmouth, Ohio, some 50 miles
above, on the Ohio River, railway lines
come in from all parts of the country,
north and east. Maysville is upon Lime-
|
(6
The Mammoth Cave.-
Among the many resorts and objects of
interest with which Kentucky abounds,
the most noteworthy, as well as most
frequented, is this famous cavern. The
route thither is not difficult. Tourists
from the Eastern cities will best reach it
via Cincinnati and Louisville, thence by
the Louisville and Nashville Railway to
Cave City, 85 miles south of Louisville.
This point is within 9 miles of the mouth
of the cave. From the south and west,
travellers will of course take the railway
from Nashville for Cave City. Steamers
ply on the Green River from Louisville to
within the distance of a mile only of the
cave. Parties arriving at Cave City by
the night trains can lay over" (as the
period of rest is technically known in this
vicinity) at the hotel there, and proceed
to the cave the following morning. A
stage connects with each train during the
season-fare, $1.00; carriages and horses
for hire. The cave is believed to extend
under the ground passed over in the
route of nine miles from the railway sta-
tion. Four miles from Cave City, the
visitor will pass a small cave on the left
of the road, known as the Indian Cave.
It contains some of the most beautiful
specimens of the stalactite and stalagmite
formations to be found in the cave
region. In size, however, it is a mere
pigmy beside its gigantic neighbor, the
Mammoth. The approaches have been
sadly interfered with during the war. It
is proposed to restore them and the cave
to their original condition, and if possible
to improve them. The proprietor, Sam.
B. Young, resides at Cave City. The
Cave Hotel, as before stated, is 9 miles
from the railway station, and is reached
with ease in two hours when the roads
129
+
[THE MAMMOTH Cave.
which is a spacious seat, grand enough
for the gods. After passing numerous
other stalactites and stalagmites, we look,
in succession, at Napoleon's Breastwork,
the Elephant's Head, and the Lover's
Leap. This last scene is a large pointed
rock, more than 90 feet above the floor,
and projecting into a grand rotunda. Just
below the Lover's Leap, a détour may be
made to the lower branch of the Gothic
Avenue, at the entrance of which we
see an immense flat rock, called Gate-
wood's Dining-Room; and to the right,
a beautiful basin of water, named the
Cooling-Tub. Beyond is Flint Pit. Still
pursuing our détour, we pass, one after
the other, Napoleon's Dome, the Cinder
Banks, the Crystal Pool (Lake Purity),
Salt Cave, and a wonderful place, still
beyond, called Annetti's Dome, through a
crevice of which is a waterfall. Reënter-
the main or Grand Avenue, we arrive
soon at the Ball-Room, where Nature has
provided every necessary fitting of gallery
and orchestra. Willie's Spring has its
pleasant story, which will delight the
wondering visitor until he is almost petri-
fied with astonishment at the sight of
the great rock, known as the Giant's
Coffin. Here begin the incrustations,
ever varied in form and character, which
are so much the delight of all visitors.
The Giant's Coffin passed, we sweep round
the Great Bend. Opposite is the Sick-
Room. The Star Chamber is a splendid
hall, with perpendicular arches on each
side, and a flat roof. In the main avenue
the side rocks are of a light color, and
are strongly relieved against the dark
ceiling, which is covered with countless
sparkling substances, resembling stars.
By a judicious display of lamps and Ben-
gal lights in this apartment, an almost
magical effect is produced. It forms one
of the most-to many, the most attrac-
tive feature of the cave. Wright's Rotun-
da (the Cross Room) has a ceiling of 400
feet span, and yet not a single pillar to
uphold it. The Black Chambers contain
ruins which remind us of old baronial
castle walls and towers. Through the
Big Chimneys we ascend into an upper
room, about the size of the main cave.
Here are heard the plaintive whispers of
a distant waterfall; as we come nearer, the
sound swells into a grand roar, and we
|
|
THE MAMMOTH CAVE.]
are in good order, which of late years
has not been the case. Mr. Ouseley, the
former proprietor, has disposed of the
property to Messrs. Rogers and Proctor,
who have made recent additions and im-
provements. Visitors will now find it a
pleasant stopping-place.
A short walk from the hotel brings us to
the mouth of the cave. The journey
through these stupendous vaults and
passages is often long and toilsome,
despite the marvels which everywhere
beguile the way. As it takes days to
see these wonderful scenes, so it would
require many pages to describe them,
which fact compels us to be content
with the briefest catalogue of the chief
points of interest. Accompanied by
a guide (it is not safe to attempt the
passage without one), and aided by a
lighted flambeau or oil-lamp, the visitor
may now set out on his undergrounding
journey. After exploring the narrows,
ante-chambers, and the Audubon Avenue,
which is a mile in length, 50 or 60 feet
high, and as many wide, we return and
pass through the vestibule for a second
time, entering the main cave or Grand
Gallery, a mighty tunnel of many miles
extent. The Kentucky Cliffs passed, we
descend some 20 fect to the Rotunda, and
thence to another apartment immediate-
ly underneath it, known as the Church.
This is a grand apartment, 100 feet in
diameter, with a roof formed of one
solid seamless rock, suspended 63 feet
overhead. Nature has supplied these
solemn halls with a natural pulpit, and a
recess where a mighty organ and a count-
less choir could be placed. Religious
services have been performed in the "dim
religious light" of torches, under this mag-
nificent roof. The Gothic Avenue is
reached by a détour from the main cave,
and a descent of some 30 feet. It is two
miles in length, 40 feet wide, and 15 feet
high. This place was once called the
Haunted Chamber. Louisa's Bower, Vui-
can's Stithy, and the new and old Register
Rooms, are now passed in succession.
The Gothic Chapel rivals all the marvels
of the highest and nicest art, in the
strength, beauty, and proportions of its
grand columns, and its exquisite orna-
mentation. The Devil's Arm Chair is
a large stalagmite pillar, in the centre of
KENTUCKY.
130
THE MAMMOTH CAVE.]
are close to the cataract. To enter the I
place called the Solitary Chamber, by
the way of the Humble Chute, we have
to crawl upon our hands and knees for
15 or 18 feet beneath a low arch. Here
is the Fairy Grotto, the character of
which admirably realizes the promise of
its name.
The Chief City (Temple) in
the main cave (Grand Avenue) beyond the
Rocky Pass, is 200 feet in diameter, and 40
feet high. The floors are piled with rock,
which give it the appearance of a ruined
city. Other localities, in the direct pas-plored, being but 500 yards long. Dia-
mond (Richerson's) Cave lies on the road to
Indian and Mammoth Caves, half a mile
west of the railway. Its chief beauty
are its stalactite formations.
Harrodsburg Springs.-This is one of
the most fashionable watering-places of
Kentucky, and is, during the season, "the
grand field of tournament for Western
flirtation, and the gathering-point for
politicians out of harness, and for such
wealthy Westerners and Southerners as
like to spend their money on the side of
the Alleghanies that slopes toward home."
The hotel here, with all its surroundings
and appointments, is most admirable. Dr.
Graham, the liberal proprietor, has already
expended more than $300,000 upon the
embellishment of the place; and so ex-
|
sage of the cave, as in some of the many
détours, are appropriately named the
Steeps of Time, the Covered Pit, the Side-
Saddle, the Bottomless Pit, the Labyrinth,
the Dead Sea, and the Bandit's Hall.
The Long Route.-On entering upon the
Long Route, the visitor leaves the main
cave at the foot of the Giant's Coffin, and
passes into the Deserted Chamber. The
distance from the mouth of the cave to
the Maelstrom, at the end of the Long
Route, is 9 miles. Passing Wooden-Bowl
Cave, Martha's Palace, Shelby's Dome, we
cross the Bridge of Sighs, and enter
another apartment, where those who fre-
quent the cave, and are therefore supposed
to know something of its mysteries, are
in the habit of resting in a narrow, tor-
tuous avenue, called and known as Rev-pended it, that it all sensibly contributes
ellers' Hall. Fat Man's Misery appropri- to the comforts and enjoyments of his
ately follows the Hall of Feasting and guests. (For route, see Harrodsburg,
Revelling. Crossing the river Styx by a ante.)
natural bridge, we reach Lake Lethe,
which visitors, desiring to extend their ex-
plorations further, cross in boats. From
Lake Lethe the visitor is introduced to
the Great Walk, at the termination of
which he can take a boat on Echo River,
which has a course of three quarters of a
mile within the cave, and finally finds its
outlet in Green River. Silliman's Avenue
is still beyond. Parties visiting the cave
in sufficient numbers, and accompanied
by a band, frequently sojourn here and
enjoy the festivities of the Ball-Room.
Visitors, if they feel so disposed, may
travel 200 miles in the different avenues
and labyrinthine walks of this wonderful
cave. Proper care will insure against all
risk of danger. Colds, instead of being
contracted, are more often cured by the
visit. Nowhere is the air in the slightest
degree impure. So free is the cave from
[SPRINGS.
reptiles of every kind, that St. Patrick
might be supposed to have exerted his
fabled annihilating power in its favor.
Combustion is everywhere perfect. No
decomposition is met with. The waters
of the springs and rivers of the cave are
habitually fresh and pure. The tempera-
ture is equable at all seasons, at 59 de-
grees Fahrenheit. White's Cave is situat-
ed about half a mile from the Cave Hotel.
It is remarkable for the beauty of its
stalactite formations. It is easily ex-
KENTUCKY.
Knob Lick is an interesting spot within
excursion distance (15 miles) of the Har-
rodsburg Springs. The knobs or hillocks
here are from 100 to 200 feet high, more
or less conical; some of them insulated,
others connected by crumbling isthmuses;
the whole forming a group of barren
conoidal eminences, which are finely con-
trasted with the deep verdure of the sur-
rounding plain.
The Devil's Pulpit is a wonderful
passage in the bold landscape of the
Kentucky River. It is accessible from
Harrodsburg in a twenty-mile excursion.
The Blue Lick Springs is a watering-
place of high repute, on the Licking River,
in Nicholas County. These springs con-
tain soda, magnesia, lime, sulphuretted
hydrogen, and carbonic acid, in combina-
tion with muriates and sulphates. A
battle was fought here between the settlers
131
KENTUCKY.
SPRINGS.]
and Indians, August 19, 1782. (For route
thither, see Paris, ante.)
Drennon Springs (black and salt sul-
phur) are upon the banks of the Ken-
tucky, in Henry County. They may be
reached by steamboat from Louisville.
Poplar Mountain Springs are upon
the Poplar Mountain top, in Clinton
County, four miles from Albany. The
scenery in this vicinage is remarkable for
its beauty. Upon Indian Creek, not far
from the springs, there is a perpendicular
waterfall of 90 feet.
[Natural BRIDGE.
at a depth of 25 or 30 feet. Stones cast
into this pit give no indication of touch-
ing the bottom. There is yet another
extraordinary sink in this neighborhood,
on the top of an elevation, called French-
man's Knob. It has been descended, by
means of a rope, 275 feet, but without
finding bottom.
The Tar and Breckenridge White
phur Springs are in Breckenridge County,
four miles from Cloverport. They are
readily accessible from the Ohio River.
The Breckenridge coal is found in this
vicinity.
Natural Bridge.-There is an extra-
ordinary natural bridge in the roman-
tic County of Christian. It is 130 feet
high, with a span of 70 feet. Dismal
Rock is a frowning precipice, 160 fect
The White Sulphur Springs are in high, in Edmonson County. Cumber-
Grayson County, four miles from Litch-land Gap.-This passage of the Cum-
field. They are very numerous, within a berland River through the mountains,
small area.
in Knox County, 150 miles south of Lex-
Sul-ington, is an imposing scene. The waters
make their way between huge cliffs, 1,300
feet in height. This famous gap gained
considerable prominence during the re-
cent campaign in Kentucky. It was sur-
rendered to the Federal forces under
General Shackleford, September 7, 1863.
Waterfalls.—Besides the cascades of the
Indian Creek, near Poplar Mountain,
of which we have already made mention,
there are numerous beautiful waterfalls
among the hills of Kentucky. The Kentick
Creek, in Cumberland County, presents
some fine pictures of this kind. The
traveller must not overlook, either, if his
time serves for the exploration, the Rock
House in Cumberland, the Indian Rock
in Edmonson, Pilot Rock in Christian,
and the Flat and the Anvil Rocks in Union
County.
The Tar and Sulphur Springs are upon
Green River, in Davis County, near the
"Old Vernon Settlements." There are
other springs of reputation in this vicinity.
The Esculapia Springs (chalybeate and
white sulphur) are in a beautiful valley of
Lewis County.
The Fox and Phillips Springs are in
the abundant spring region of Fleming
County.
The Lettonian Springs (sulphur) are
upon the Bank Lick Road, near the Ohio
River, and about four miles from Coving-
ton. This is a pleasant excursion point
from Cincinnati. The Parroquet Springs
are near Shepherdsville, in Bullitt County.
|
The Mounds and Fortifications, which
are numerous in Kentucky, afford em-
ployment enough for the antiquarian
tourist. In Allen County, 17 miles from
Bowling Green, there is a wall of solid lime-
stone 200 yards in length, 40 feet high; at
its base 30 feet thick, and at its summit six
feet. It crosses a neck formed of a curve
in Drake's Creek, and shuts in a peninsula
of about 200 acres, elevated 100 feet above
the river. Upon the crown of this emi-
nence, an area of three acres is sur-
rounded by a wall and ditch, making the
place a fortress of immense strength.
Other strange ancient works may be found
in Warren, Spencer, Boone, La Rue,
Montgomery, Barren, and Bourbon Coun-
ties. The Big Bone Licks of Boone County
exhibit the great bones of the mastodon
The Sink-Holes of Kentucky.—Of these
curious cavities or depressions in the sur-
face of the ground, known as sinks, re-
markable examples are found in Ken-
tucky. Sinking Creek, in Breckenridge
County, suddenly disappears, and is not
seen again within a distance of half a
dozen miles. Near Munfordsville, in Hart
County, there is a strange spring con-
nected with a mill-pond, the waters of
which overflow the dam every twenty-four
hours, rising 12 or 15 inches, and reced-
ing to their ordinary level with the preci-
sion of the tides. Six miles east of the
same town there is a hole, in form like an
inverted cone, which is 70 feet in diameter
at the surface, and but 10 or 12 feet across
132
MOUNDS.]
and other extinct animals. Curious fossil
remains are found in Bourbon County.
Impressions of the feet of men and of
animals may be seen in a rock near Mor-
ganfield, in Union County.
Both the antiquarian and the geolo-
gist have a fine field within the domains
of Kentucky, in which to gratify their
taste and prosecute their studies.
KENTUCKY.
[ROUTES.
| ly described in the foregoing pages. For
the convenience of those making the
Southern Tour by water from Cincinnati
or St. Louis, the editor of the "Hand-
book" deems it important to incorporate
in this portion of the work brief sketches
of these cities, and other points of inter-
est on the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers.
For more extended descriptions of these
cities and vicinage, the reader is referred
to the chapters on Ohio and Mississippi.
133
The usually travelled routes from New
York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Wash-
ington, southward, have been sufficient-
THE OHIO RIVER.
THE OHIO
RIVER.
[See accompanying map.]
ONE of the most important points for
the traveller to consider and determine
upon before taking a trip down the Ohio,
or indeed any river, is the choice of a
boat. In vain are fine weather and pleas-
ant company, if the craft you have select-
ed be not seaworthy and comfortable; a
leaky stateroom, a wheezy 'scape-pipe or
two, a defective boiler, are things to be
avoided at all times, but especially so
when starting on a voyage of a thousand
miles or more, extending over a period of
several days. If the traveller have the
If the traveller have the
opportunity, and is "posted" in such mat-
ters, it is always well to go aboard the
day before starting, and examine for him-
self. If not, let him consult his landlord,
or still better, some friend whose judg-
ment may be relied on, and be thus
guided in his choice. The regular packet
lines are the most reliable, and these
usually have one boat daily. The fare from
Cincinnati or St. Louis to New Orleans, is
usually about the same, varying from
$25 to $40, according to the season of
the year, the stage of water, and the prob-
able duration of the passage. The dis-
tance from Cincinnati to Cairo, at the
mouth of the river, is 500 miles, and the
time usually occupied in making it, two
days, though it is sometimes travelled
by the regular packets in less. The
traveller, as he descends this noble river
in the spring of the year-when its banks
are full, and the beautiful red-bud and
Cornus Florida deck the declivities of
the bluffs, which sometimes rise 300 feet
in height, impend over the river, and cast
their grand shadows into the transparent
waters, and are seen at intervals in its
luxuriant bottoms, while the towering
sycamore throws its venerable and majes-
tic arms, decked with rich foliage, over
the other trees-will readily acknowledge |
|
the appropriateness of the title, of which
the early French explorers gave it,
"La Belle Rivière." The Ohio is formed
by the junction of the Alleghany and
Monongahela, the former being navigable
for keel-boats as far as Olean, in the State
of New York, a distance of about 250
miles; the latter is navigable for steam-
boats to Brownsville, 60 miles, and by
keel-boats upwards of 175 miles. These
two streams unite at Pittsburg and form
the Ohio, which after a course of one
thousand miles unites its waters with
those of the Mississippi. No other river
of the same length has such a uniform,
smooth, and placid current. Its average
width is about 2,400 feet, and the descent,
in its whole course, is about 400 feet.
At Pittsburg it is elevated about 1,150
feet above the ocean. It has no fall, ex-
cept a rocky rapid of twenty-two and a
half feet descent at Louisville, around
which is a canal two and a half miles
long, with locks sufficiently capacious to
admit large steamboats, though not of
the largest class. (See Louisville.) Dur-
ing half the year this river has a depth
of water allowing of navigation by steam-
boats of the first class through its whole
course. It is, however, subject to ex-
treme elevations and depressions. The
average range between high and low wa-
ter is probably 50 feet.
It lowest stage
is in September, and its highest in March.
It has been known to rise 12 feet in a
night. Various estimates have been
made of the rapidity of its current, but
owing to its continually varying, it would
be difficult to assign any very exact esti-
mate. Between Pittsburg and its mouth
it is diversified by many considerable
islands, some of which are of exquisite
beauty; besides a number of tow-heads
and sand-bars, which in low stages of the
134

Free-
dom
Ohto
Lawrenc
ville
Alle
gheny
Beeronomy
GegeT
We
Browns
Steuben
Warrenton
Martinsburg
Bridgeport
Cadiz
Liverpool
West Fork of
White R.
A
Can.
EBURG
Brownsville
WMO
Moron Sgahey ar
Birmingham
SYLVANIA
Washington
Newark
Miami
R.
Middletown
RAILROAD
Wellsburg
WADASH
Mus
Circle
ville
COLUMBUS
London
Springfield
it. Miami
Sairs
ville
Lan
WHEELING
Mayville
Hamilto
CINCINN
CINCINNAT
INDIANAPOLIS
ellev
VILLE
Athens de River
Lancaster
Hamden
Wheenge Susp" Br..
Elizabeth T.
Martinsvill
OHIO
Aurora
Rising Sun
N.York
Versailles Vevay
N MADISON
Handver
ingum
White
E. Fork
RIVER
Barmer
Belpre Parkersburg
Blenerhassett's L
N
Hocking
Murraysville
Buffington's I
Retartsville
Letarts
Gt Kanawha R
Guyan
Gayandotdotte
Burlington BigSan
Gatlettsbu
dy Riv
burg
Greenups
Belmont
Nemport
Covington
North Bendarrison's Grave
Lawrenceburg
Duck R
Duval
PorRIETTA
Evan
Romero
sherweld
Lavaris
Higginsport
echanicsburg
to sant
OHIO
RIVER
Sciota Riv
Ohio Canal
Chillicothe
PPlease
Gallipolis
Gedenworth
Boring T. edoma
Sistersville
Grandview
wport
bbe
New Albany
Salem
Terce
Haute Newburgo
Bethlehem
CharlestonL.
Rome
Condor
Aberdeen
Rif
Haring Rock
Petersburg FRANKFORT
Belleview
Milton
Shawnee T
Warsaw
Ghent
Carroll-
ton
Dover
Augusta
Rock Spr. L
Wheelersburg
Manchester Lick
ing R
London
CAVE
IN ROCK
Elizabeth
Golconda
RTSMOUTH
Mockville C
Vanceburg
George.
MAP OF THE
OHIO R Massac
America
from.
PITTSBURG.
TO CAIRO.
Trinit
Westport
LOUIS-
VILLE
Shippings
Portland
Anton Concordia
FmtI
Diamond I.
Vernon
Uniontown
Chaleigh
E
WestPoint
Maukport Branden
mater
dam
Henderson
Shelbyville
Cumberland
Home Stevensport NASH
Trevo
VILLE
Maxville
Lewispor
Cloversport
Hawesville
C
Rockport
Enterprise Owensburg
Hopkinsville
5
Hurr
canel
on
LEXINGTON
Caseyville
Harrodsburg
aledonia
Cashl
US
CAIRO PER
Riv.
Boston
O+
KENTU
it. Kanawha Rive
Clarksville
Paducah
Lebanon
CUM
Smithland
TENNESSEE RIV
Columbus
Green Riv.
ΔΙΗ


water greatly impede the navigation.
The passages between some of the islands
and the sand-bars at their head are
among the difficulties of the navigation
of the Ohio. In the infancy of the
country, every species of water craft was
employed in navigating this river, some
of which were of the most whimsical and
amusing description. The barge, the
keel-boat, the Kentucky-flat or family-
boat, the pirogue, ferry-boats, gondolas,
skiffs, dug-outs, and many others, formerly
floated in great numbers down the cur-
rents of the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers
to their points of destination, at distances
sometimes of three thousand miles. Ow-
ing to the difficulties of navigating the
river between Pittsburg and Cincinnati,
and the facilities of speedy communica-
tion between these cities by rail, the
amount of travel, except between way
points on the river, is very small.
To Middletown, Pa.
Economy, Pa.
Table of distances on the Ohio, from Pitts-
burg to Cincinnati.
•
•
Freedom, Pa
Beaver, Pa.
Georgetown, Pa.
Liverpool, Ohio ..
Wellsville, Ohio………
Steubenville, Ohio..
Wellsburg, Va
•
Warrenton, Ohio..
Martinsville, Ohio.
Wheeling, Va.
Bridgeport, Ohio
Elizabethtown, Va.
Big Grave Creek, Va.
New Martinsville, Va...
Sisterville, Va…………
Newport, Ohio..
Marietta, Ohio
Vienna, Va.
Parkersburg, Va.
Belpre, Ohio
·
·
..
..
● •
•
•
Blennerhasset's Island..
Hockingsport, Ohio
Bellville, Va
Murraysville, Va..
Shade River, Ohio..
Ravenswood, Va
Letartsville, Ohio
Pomeroy
Coalport,
Sheffield, Ohio
THE OHIO RIVER.
Point Pleasant, Va.
Gt. Kanawha River, Va.
Gallipolis, Ohio……….
Millersport, Ohio.
Guyandotte, Va.
Proctorsville, Ohio
Burlington, Ohio.
Big Sandy River.
•
··
4
4
19
7
8
1
→
13
44
49
52
85
93
94
107
10 117
29 146
12 158
18 177
6 182
CINCINNATI.
11
6 25
5
30
14
The "Queen City of the West," as
Cincinnati has not inappropriately been
8 19 called, is pleasantly situated on the north
bank of the Ohio, 500 miles from its
mouth, and near the confluence of the
Licking River, which enters from Ken-
tucky just above Covington, on the op-
posite side of the river. Its central po-
sition, at the very heart of the railway and
inland navigation system of the country,
secures to the traveller easy and rapid ac-
cess from every quarter of the Union.
From New York the most direct route
thither is by the Atlantic and Great
Western Railway via Salamanca and Mans-
field, distance 862 miles. The New York
and Erie route, and the Hudson River or
Harlem Railway to Albany, and thence
by the Central to Buffalo or Dunkirk, and
thence via Cleveland and Columbus, are
not unfrequently taken.
6 188
2 190
11 201
4 205
5 210
1 211
11 222
22 244
14 258
1 259
}
Hanging Rock, Ohio…….
Greenupsburg, Ky
Wheelersburg, Ohio.
Portsmouth, Ohio
Scioto River, Ohio
Rockville, Ohio
Rome, Ohio..
Concord, Ky
Manchester, Ohio.
Maysville, Ky.
Aberdeen, Ohio
Charleston, Ky
Ripley, Ohio.
Higginsport, Ohio.
Augusta, Ky
Mechanicsburg, Ky..
Neville, Ohio..
Moscow...
12 271
4 275
24 299
13 312
8 320
4 824
··
..
··
•
•
Pt. Pleasant, Ohio
Belmont, Ky.
New Richmond.
Little Miami River, Ohio.
Columbia
}..
Jamestown, Ky.
Cincinnati, Ohio
Newport & Covington, Ky.
Ky.}......
13 337
6 343
8 351
12 363
16 379
10 389
6 395
7 404
12 414
7 421
2 423
7 430
4 434
7 441
3 414
4 448
4 452
5 457
14 471
1 472
5 477
From Philadelphia, by the Pennsylvania
Central Railway via Pittsburg, Crestline,
and Columbus, distance 722 miles. The
scenery of the Pennsylvania Central is
much admired.
From Baltimore the route is by the
Baltimore and Ohio Railway, via Wheel-
ing or Parkersburg, distance 636 miles.
Adding the distance from New York to
Baltimore, 186 miles, the entire distance
from New York to Cincinnati, by this
❤
135
THE OHIO RIVER.
route, is 822 miles. The beautiful scenery
and other attractions of this fine road
hold out strong inducements to tourists and
pleasure travellers. As remarked in the
chapter on Maryland, parties making Bal-
timore their point of departure from the
North Atlantic seaboard, have a choice of
routes: they can either proceed directly
south, by way of Washington and Rich-
mond, or taking the route here laid down,
they can pursue their journey from Cin-
cinnati by steamer. The traveller's own
taste, and the time and means at his com-
mand, will decide as to the best choice
to make. The Cincinnati hotels, though
by no means what they should be either
as regards style or comfort, are sufficient-
ly attractive to make a short stay desir-
able after the fatigues of a journey from
the East, and the stranger can profitably
and pleasantly spend a few days in view-
ing the city and its pretty environs. The
Burnel House is centrally and pleasantly
located on Vine and Third Streets. It is
conducted by Captain Silas F. Miller, for-
merly of the "Galt House," Louisville.
The Spencer House, on Broadway, near
the steamboat landing, is an old and fa-
vorite stopping-place. The Broadway
Hotel, at the intersection of Broadway
and Second Street, is also conveniently
located for travellers by the river. The
Walnut Street House and Merchants' Hotel
are among the best of their class. Among
the various restaurants of the city, the
St. Nicholas, at the corner of Fourth and
Race Streets, in the immediate neighbor-
hood of the Burnet House, is the best
worthy of patronage. Reading and bil-
liard rooms attached.
The city proper is compactly built upon
two plateaus or terraces, ranging in alti-
tude from 50 to 110 feet above low-water
mark in the Ohio. The city occupies the
river shore for more than three miles, and
its area is rapidly extending. The streets
are generally of good width, well paved
and well lighted. The principal thorough-
fares are Fourth, Broadway, Main, and
Pearl Streets. The Levée, though by no
means so extensive as that of New Orleans,
forms a characteristic feature of the
place. Fourth Street is the fashionable
promenade. The markets and many of
the retail establishments are located in
Fifth Street, which is generally thronged
at certain hours each day with a motley
multitude of every class. Among the
public buildings of the city worthy of no-
tice are the Observatory on Mount Adams,
in the eastern part of the city, the corner-
stone of which was laid November 9,
1843, by John Quincy Adams. The tele-
scope, by Mentz and Mahler of Munich,
is a valuable instrument, and cost $10,000.
The Masonic Temple, on the northeast
corner of Walnut and Third, is an elegant
structure.
The Roman Catholic Cathedral of St.
Peters, at the intersection of Plum and
Eighth Streets, has a powerful organ and
some fine paintings. The altar is of
Carrara marble, by Chiappri, of Genoa.
The Custom House, adjoining the Burnet
House at the corner of Vine and Fourth
Streets, is a fine structure, in the Corin-
thian style. In it are also located the
Post-Office and United States Courts.
The City Hall is in Plum Street, between
Eighth and Ninth. The Merchants' Ex-
change, on Walnut Street, near Fourth, is
a handsome edifice, with a front of 140
feet, in the Greco-Doric order. The
rooms of the Mercantile Library Associa-
tion are in this building. The collection
of books numbers 23,000. Strangers
introduced by members have access to
the shelves and to the files of news-
papers.
The principal places of amusement
are Wood's Theatre, on Vine Street corner
of Sixth, and the National Theatre, in
Sycamore Street, below Fourth. Pike's
Opera House, recently destroyed by fire,
was considered, next to that in Philadel-
phia, the finest in the Union. The Sus-
pension Bridge which spans the river be-
low the foot of Vine Street will attract
the stranger's attention. The towers are
1,006 feet apart and 230 fect high. It
was commenced September 1, 1856, and
is not yet quite complete. It is the work
of John A. Roebling, the architect of the
Niagara Suspension Bridge, and is a mag-
nificent structure.
nificent structure. Its entire cost will
not fall short of one million dollars. The
vicinity of Cincinnati abounds in beautiful
drives; that to Spring Grove Cemetery is
among the most attractive. This beauti-
ful burying-ground is in the valley of
Mill Creek, four miles northwest of the
city. It embraces 220 acres, and is
136
adorned with many fine monuments.
The Lunatic Asylum, a large brick build-
ing, occupies a prominent locale on the
opposite side of Mill Creek.
Madison Road, and its continuation,
Grandin Road, affords a pleasant drive.
The residences of Mr. Joseph Long-
worth, the famous wine-grower and manu-
facturer, of Mr. Harrison, and of Captain P.
W. Strader, all well-known citizens, are
seen from this road. Extended views of
the Ohio River are obtained from the bluff
top in front of Mr. Harrison's mansion.
A visit to Longworth's Wine-House is
among the most noteworthy events of
the appreciative traveller's visit to Cin-
cinnati. The "Vaults" have capacity
for upwards of a million bottles. Ap-
plication for admission to the vaults
should be made to Mr. William P. Ander-
son, a nephew of Mr. Longworth's, who
has sole management of the establish-
ment. Formerly the neighborhood of
Cincinnati abounded in vineyards, but of
late years the grape crop has failed, and
Mr. Longworth and other large growers
have abandoned their cultivation entirely.
It is now mainly conducted by the Ger-
mans, whose experience and thrifty habits
enable them to make it remunerative in
spite of blight and early frost. Cincinnati
has a world-wide reputation for the quan-
tity and quality of the pork packed; the
extent of the business is sufficiently ap-
parent to the stranger who frequents that
part of the city in which the slaughtering
and packing is carried on. Some of the
packing-houses are very large, and to the
curious in such matters are worth visit-
ing.
Distances from Cincinnati to the mouth of
the Ohio.
To North Bend, O.
··
Great Miami River, O...
Petersburg, Ky..
Belleview, Ky..
Rising Sun, Ind…….
Big Bone Lick Creek,
Hamilton, Ky.
Warsaw, Ky
Vevay, Ind
Kentucky River
Madison, Ind.
...
···
THE OHIO RIVER.
•
•
•
•
16
4589
2*8** 328%
20
25
33
3 36
12 48
12 60
10 70
10 80
12 92
Hanover Landing, Ind..
New London, Ind..
Westport, Ky
Utica, Ind.
Jeffersoville, Ky
Louisville, Ky
··
and from Pittsburg.
Shippingsport, Ky
Portland, Ky.
New Albany, Ind.
Salt River, and
West Point, Ky.
Brandenburg, Ky..
Northampton, Ind.
Amsterdam, Ind
Leavensworth, Ind.
Fredonia. Ind
Alton, Ind
Concordia, Ky..
Rome, Ind., and
Stevensport, Ky.
Cloversport, Ky
Carmelton, Ind..
Troy, Ind.'.
Lewisport, Ky.
Rockport, Ind..
Owensburg, Ky
Enterprise, Ind..
Newburg, Ind...
Green River, Ky..
Evansville, Ind
Hendersonville, Ky
Mount Vernon, Ind..
Uniontown, Ky.
Wabash River..
Raleigh, Ky.
Shawneetown, Ill…….
Caseyville, Ky
Cave In Rock, Ill.
Elizabeth, Ill..
Golconda, Ill.
Cumberland River, and
Smithland, Ky.
Tennessee River, and
Paducah, Ky
Belgrade, Ill..
Fort Massac, Ill.
Caledonia, Ill
America, Ill.
Trinity, Ill...
Cairo, Ill., and
·
}
{
Mouth of the Ohio River,
and from Pittsburg..
...
···
··
··
....
·
··
...
•
··
··
...
•
···
To St. Louis, Mo.
Memphis, Tenn...
Vicksburg
Natchez...
New Orleans...
..
· •
•
From Cin
697
767
1153
1269
1548
610
··
•
·
•
.999
6 98
4 102
6 108
15 123
9 132
1 133
2 135
1 136
18 154
18 172
10 182
3 185
8 193
5 198
13 211
10 221
11 232
10 242
13 255
Distances from Pittsburg and Cincinnati by
boat.
6 261
6 267
12 279
9 288
6 294
15 309
6 315
9 324
12 336
26 362
15 377
5 382
6 388
5 393
9 402
14 416
6 422
23 445
17 462
12 474
8 482
2 484
25 509
3 512
5 517
5 522
From P'b'g.
1174
1264
1630
1746
2025
[For descriptive sketches of places and ob-
jects of interest in the above list, see chapters
on Kentucky, etc.]
137
i
THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER.
THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER.
[See accompanying map.]
|
THE disappointment which the traveller
feels in looking upon this famous river
for the first time, is only exceeded by the
counteracting impression which a journey
down it leaves upon the mind. A more
intimate acquaintance with the extent and
resources of the country tributary to it,
which repeated visits to points distributed
along its entire course alone can give,
only serve to heighten this impression,
and "make this wonder greater grow."
around the northern sources of the latter
river to the headwaters of Red River, a
branch of the Assiniboin; around the
sources of the Mississippi proper, to the
headwaters of the Wisconsin and Illi-
nois Rivers; between the confluents of
the lakes, and those of the Ohio, to the
extreme source of the Alleghany River;
along the dividing line between the sour-
ces of streams flowing into the Ohio
River, and those flowing toward the At-
Discovered in 1672, its true source was lantic; between the confluents of the
not fully determined until its exploration Tennessee, and those streams emptying
by Schoolcraft, who, in 1832, ascertained into Mobile Bay; between the sources
that it took its rise in a small lake situated discharged into the Mississippi, and those
in 47° N. latitude and 94° 54′ W. longitude into the Tombigbee and Pearl Rivers; to
from Greenwich. This lake, called by the mouth of the Mississippi, and from
the French Lac la Biche - by recent its mouth to the outlet of the Atchafala-
geographers Itasca (from Veritas Caput, ya—the whole presenting an outline of
the true head), is a beautiful sheet of more than 6,000 miles, or an area of
water, of an irregular shape, about eight | about 1,210,000 square
about 1,210,000 square miles. The Mis-
miles in length, situated among hills cov-sissippi River is navigable for steamboats
ered with pine forests, and fed chiefly by with but partial interruption, as far north
springs. It is elevated above 1,500 feet as the Falls of St. Anthony, a distance of
above the ocean, and is at a distance of 2,037 miles; its course, however, is ex-
more than 3,000 miles from the Gulf of tremely crooked, and not unfrequently a
Mexico. The river drains an extent of bend occurs from twenty to thirty miles
territory which, for fertility and vastness, round, while the distance across is not
is unequalled upon the globe. This ter- more than a mile or two. In some in-
ritory, termed the " Mississippi Valley," stances, however, these distances have
extends from the sources of the Missis-been shortened by what are termed "cut-
sippi in the north to the Gulf of Mexico offs," which are made by opening a narrow
in the south, and from the Alleghany channel across the neck of a bend, when,
Mountains on the east to the Rocky on admitting the water, the current, run-
Mountains on the west. A more correct ning with such velocity, soon forces a
estimate of its area may be formed thus: channel both wide and deep enough for
Take a position on the Gulf of Mexico, the largest steamboats to go through.
where it empties its accumulated waters, The navigation is frequently rendered
and run a line northwestward to the dangerous, owing to the mighty volume
Rocky Mountains, from whence issue the of water washing away from some pro-
sources of the Arkansas, Platte, and other jecting point large masses of earth, with
smaller streams; from this point, along its huge trees, which are carried down the
the Rocky Mountains to the sources of stream. Others, again, are often imbed-
the Yellowstone and Missouri Rivers; ded in the mud, with their tops rising
"
138

MAP OF THE
MISSISSIPPI RIV.
Washita R.
from
ST. LOUIS
to the
GULF OF MEXICO.
Washita
RED
Bayou Teche
RIVER
falaya
Lawrenceville
New Gasgoney
ARKANSAS
Bartholomew R.
Clarendon
Boeuf R.
RedRiv.I.
&Cutoff
Red R.hand
Raccourci
Bend
Fairview
K
Napoleon
Riv
prus Bend
NO 28
Columbia
Grand
Lake
Vidalia
NOIS
White
RIVN
Bayou Tensaw
MISSISSIPPIR
Millikins
Sparta
Walnut
Carthages
No 118
No12
NO 7
R
Pychoo
Grand Lake LLand?
5
PCouplee Settlem
Waterlo
Ellis
Cliffs
Riv.
inceton
Bunches
Bend W92
SL.Providence athala
Tompkins V98
Campbells W2102
075
Plaquemine
Tanica
Bend
Ne123
969
No 65
N66
Tice
NATCHEZ
L.
Big Prairie
Helena
MISSISSIPPI RIVER
Port Adams
Raccourci Cut Off
Hide Pouch
Maramec
R.
100
Charles
Missouri Riv
3
OUTS
ephs
Bruinsburg
Rodney
Sun
Woodville
Her-
culangan
Selma
Fairchilds Cr
Potosi
968
Montgomery P
Victoria
Caledonia
Bachelor's Bend
Greenville
Bayou Fra SFncisville
Homo chitto R
Greenville
Fort Charters
Bayou Could
Cantrelts
Church
Doaldson
Amite R.
Lake
Lead Fork
Cut Of Delta
Clinton
West Prair
West
Shirt Tail Bend
Worthington
Brand Gulf
Port
Flower R.
St Francis
St Francis R.
No
Marion No
Francisville
No 46 or President
78
Norfol
Sterling Pey-
ton
Bolivar Land?
StGenevieve
Blac
Warren
ton
Bloomfield
Prairie
Jake
Iron/M
Tron Pot Knob evils Tea Table Hanging Dog L
Frederick T
Hamburg
Yazoo
No Falmyra. Raymond
Pleasant
N
放​:60
St
Port Gibson
Pt Hudson
W.Baton Rouge BATON ROUGE
Manag
LS. QU
Port Royal
0
NO3
Greenock
Harrison
Bridgewater
Bridgewater Athens
Platinel.
A
VICKS-
BURG Bolton's
Legare
N
Settlement Newton
ville Bringers
N
Cophly
Francis
Pecan P
Jefferson
College
Bayou la
Church of St Gabriel
Therville
Oscegla
Gallatine
S
Pearfield
arse She Benyi
Big Black
ABS
Cantong
Castor R.
Yazoo R.
RockI
Maurepas
Bidody T
for Barracks
Bellville
Cahokia
NO36
Holmese.
JACK
sa
W-
Brookhaven
Horse I
C. St Cormes L
Brownsville
Lacourses
Grand Tower Dev Bake Oven
Muddy I.
Com
merce
Yazoo City
Pearl Riv
Bainbridge
Devils Is.
C.Girardeau Rockl
Power's
Unity
Commerce 2 Sister
Dog Tool
Siding
Pt Pleasant
Greensburg
PART
Lit Prae
Randolp
saw B
Tchula
Lexington
Yalo Busha
Sarratton
Bonnet
Quarre Ch
New
Maria
Thibodeauville,
Alton
Water
H
MISSISSIPPI
E
ww
O
Fourche
Kaskaskia
Chester
S
Spring
feld
Lake
E
VA
RIVER
John
Plumb P
NO35
Breigh
ATHENS
39
NO 40
Red Ch
No 36
Arnauds
poro
cheyersburg
DE Id&Cut Off
Needhams
Ashport
Keelfoot
NO
1st Chickasaw
Buff
3rd Chickafaw
Bluff
Mary's R.
Palestine
OF
No12
N10
Carrollton
AIRO
I.
Pt
Charleston Nº1
Baldwins
ville
I
Colum
Woths 1.ON'S
No 6
Mills Pr
Hickman
2nd Chickasaw Bluff
LAKE
PONTCHARTRAIN
W
Lafaye
Frankfort
Covington
A NA
• Madisonville
Satem
entratig
Ft St
Leon
Obion
N
ЭС
Wilkinson's
Little Lake
Barataria
Bay
OHTO
NEW ORLEANS
Muddy R.
Pearl
Fackson
Hatchee Riv
E
Riv.
R.
CK
PART OF
MISSISSIPPI
English Turn
MISSISSIPPI
Pearlington
LAKE BORGNE
Battle
Ground Pctorsville
Poverty t
John
ren's
Fort Jackson
Mississippi
City
RIVER
S
Timbalen Bay
GULF OF
W.BO
S
s.w.Pa
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1849, by W.Williams in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Eastern District of Pennsylvania:
Stam
Chand
.
MEXICO
dissi
ས
THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER.
above the water, and not unusually caus-
ing the destruction of many a fine craft.
These are called, in river phraseology,
(C snags"
(6
" and sawyers." The whirls,
or eddies, caused by the striking peculiar-
ities of the river in the uniformity of its
meanders, are termed "points" and
"bends," which have the precision, in
many instances, as though they had been
struck by the sweep of a compass. These
are so regular, that the flatboat-men fre-
quently calculate distances by them; in-
stead of the number of miles, they esti-
mate their progress by the number of
bends they have passed. A short dis-
tance from its source, the Mississippi be-
comes a tolerably-sized stream; below
the Falls of St. Anthony it is half a mile
wide, and below the Des Moines Rapids
it assumes a medial width and character
to the mouth of the Missouri. About 15
miles below the mouth of the St. Croix
River, the Mississippi expands into a
beautiful sheet of water, called Lake
Pepin, which is 24 miles long, and from
two to four miles broad. The islands, which
are numerous, and many of them large,
have, during the summer season, an as-
pect of great beauty, possessing a gran-
deur of vegetation, which contributes
much to the magnificence of the river. The
numerous sand-bars are the resort, during
the season, of innumerable swans, geese,
and water-fowl. The Upper Mississippi
is a beautiful river, more so than the
Ohio; its current is more gentle, its water
clearer, and it is a third wider. In gen-
eral it is a mile wide, yet, for some dis-
tance before commingling its waters with
the Missouri it has a much greater width.
At the junction of the two streams, it is
a mile and a half wide. The united stream,
flowing from thence to the mouth of the
Ohio, has an average width of little more
than three-quarters of a mile. On its
uniting with the Missouri it loses its dis-
tinctive character. It is no longer the
gentle, placid stream with smooth shores
and clean sand-bars, but has a furious
and boiling current, a turbid and danger-
ous mass of waters, with jagged and di-
lapidated shores. Its character of calm
magnificence, that so delighted the eye
above, is seen no more.
St. Louis occupies relatively to the
Mississippi the same commanding position
that Cincinnati does to the Ohio. It is
the great centering and converging point
of travel and traffic, while the extent and
magnificence of its hotels places it far in
advance of its more populous and more
wealthy rival. The traveller from the
East or from the Upper Mississippi will
consult his comfort by staying at least
three days to recruit, before taking a boat
down the river. The most desirable
hotels for families are the Lindel and the
Southern. Both have been recently con-
structed, and furnished in a style equal
to the best hotels on the continent. The
Lindel occupies an entire square, fronting
on Washington Avenue, and is easily
reached from the railroad stations and
steamboat landing. The Southern is built
of Athens stone or marble, and presents
a
chaste and handsome appearance.
Gentlemen unaccompanied by ladies will
find the Planters', Olive Street House, and
the Everett, pleasant stopping-places.
The latter is convenient to the places of
amusement. From Cincinnati and the
East, St. Louis is reached directly by the
Ohio and Mississippi Railway. Distance,
340 miles; time, 17 hours. From Chica-
go the most direct route is by the Chica-
go, Alton, and St. Louis Railway. Dis-
tance, 280 miles; time, 13 hours. The
present site of the city was chosen by
Pierre Laclede, in 1764. Authorities differ
as to the precise date. It was named
in honor of Louis XV. of France. It
was settled as a trading-station, and until
recently it continued to be the headquar-
ters and depot of the great American Fur
Company, under the management of the
late M. Pierre Choteau.
The stranger
cannot but be struck with its situation,
and its commercial greatness, present and
prospective. Standing as it does on the
bank of the greatest river of the conti-
nent, between its two most important
tributaries, the Missouri and Ohio Rivers,
its future cannot fail to be a marvel of
progress.
progress. The first steamboat arrived at
the Levée in 1817. The population in
1830 was but 6,600; it now numbers
nearly 200,000. Its principal buildings
are the Court House, City Hall, and Cus-
tom House. The first-named of these,
since the completion of the dome, is one
of the finest structures of the kind in
the West. It cost $1,250,000. The
139
THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER.
Island No. 10, near Obionville, Tennes-
sec, 51 miles below Columbus, was the
scene of a terrific bombardment from the
Mississippi River fleet, extending from
March 16 to April 17, 1862. The canal
which was cut to assist in the investment
of the island, and the remains of some
of the earthworks, can still be seen in
passing the island.
،،
Planters' House, a time-honored institu- | under General Polk (September 4, 1861),
tion, famous before the war for its cuisine, and defended by from 80 to 100
guns. On
stands immediately north of the Court the naval expedition down the river
House on Fourth Street. The Cathedral, (March, 1862) it was found to have been
on Walnut Street, is worth visiting. The evacuated shortly before.
city is built mainly of brick. The streets
parallel with and near the Levée are nar-
now, but further back are some fine
thoroughfares. Fourth Street, north of
the Planters' House, is the fashionable
promenade. Washington Avenue, Chest-
nut, and Market Streets are also wide,
handsome streets. The Levée, during the
busy boating season, is one of the city
sights." The vicinage, though perhaps
less attractive than that of Cincinnati,
affords many pleasant drives. The Cem-
etery of Bellefontaine, five miles north of
the Court House, embraces about 350
acres of land, beautifully shaded. It is
reached by the Fourth Street and Broad-
way cars. Jefferson Barracks, 10 miles
below the city, affords a pleasant trip.
It is reached by the Iron Mountain Rail-
way. The Arsenal, in the southeast end
of the city, and the Marine Hospital, are
worthy the attention of strangers. If
the visitor desires to prolong his stay in
the neighborhood of St. Louis, he will
find both profit and pleasure in a visit to
the famous Iron Mountain, 81 miles south
of the city. Pilot Knob is six miles
beyond. A train leaves St. Louis daily
at 6.15 A. M., running through in 7 hours.
Between St. Louis and the mouth of the
Ohio River, a distance of 175 miles, there
is nothing of special interest to attract the
traveller's attention-a fortunate circum-
stance, as it is usually passed during the
night when objects on shore, however in-
teresting in themselves, would not be
visible to the river tourist.
Cairo, at the mouth of the Ohio River, is
a place of considerable trade. The town
was formerly below the level of the river
at high stages of water, and was subjected
to repeated inundations. It has been pro-
tected of late years by artificial levées
and otherwise improved. It is the south-
ern terminus of the Illinois Central Rail-
way to Chicago. Packets up and down
the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers all call
here. The St. Charles is the best hotel.
Columbus, Kentucky, 18 miles below
Cairo, is on the east bank of the river.
It was occupied by Confederate troops
New Madrid, Mo., the scene of the
great earthquake in 1811. It was set-
tled in 1780. A large shipping business
is carried on here. The works constructed
by the rebels for the defence of the town
can be seen from the river.
Point Pleasant, Missouri, 7 miles below,
was occupied by General Pope prepara-
tory to the attack on Island No. 10.
Fort Pillow, situated on the first Chick-
asaw Bluff, near Island 33 and Plum Point,
was evacuated by the rebels June 4, 1862.
It was afterwards the scene of a horrible
butchery by the troops under the Confed-
erate General Forrest (April 12, 1864),
known in history as the Fort Pillow mas-
sacre.
Fort Randolph, on the second Chicka-
saw Bluff, like Fort Pillow, is a rebel work.
It was evacuated by them about the same
time. The village of Randolph, which
consisted of about forty dwellings, was
burnt by General Sherman's orders.
Memphis. (See chapter on Tennessee.)
Helena, Arkansas, a thriving town be-
fore the war, with a population of 4,000,
was occupied by the troops of General
Curtis on their return from the interior
of the State (July, 1862). It is in Phillips
County, 80 miles below Memphis.
White River, which enters the Missis-
sippi 161 miles below Memphis, and 80
miles below Helena, was the scene of ac-
tive operations during a great part of the
Duvall's Bluff, Des Arc, and Bates-
ville, are on its banks.
war.
Napoleon, at the mouth of the Arkansas
River, is next reached in the voyage down-
stream. This is a place of considerable
trade during the boating season in the
Arkansas. It is about 125 miles by land
southeast of Little Rock. The United
140
THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER.
States Marine Hospital, with all the sup-
plies it contained, was seized by the
Confederate authorities upon the secession
of the State (May 6, 1861). (For points
on the Arkansas River, see chapter on
Arkansas.)
Grand Lake, in Chicot County, is on
the Arkansas side of the river. Steam-
boats usually land here with supplies for
the neighboring planters. There is fine
gunning in the neighborhood.
Vicksburg. (See chapter on Mississippi
for description of the city and military
operations.)
Grand Gulf contains a Town Hall,
market house, and numerous stores.
Natchez. (See chapter on Mississippi.)
Port Hudson, 25 miles above Baton
Rouge, was the scene of an attack during
the summer of 1863, by General Banks
from New Orleans. It surrendered to the
U. S. forces (July 9), after the news of
the fall of Vicksburg.
|
is perhaps 30 miles wide, yet, finding its
way through deep forests and swamps,
that conceal all from the eye, no expanse
of water is seen but the width that is
curved out between the outline of woods
on either bank, and it seldom exceeds,
and oftener falls short of a mile. But
when he sees, as he must, in descending
its entire length, that it swallows up one
river after another, with mouths as wide
as itself, without affecting its width at all;
when he notes the mighty Missouri, the
broad Ohio, the St. Francis, White, Ar-
kansas, and Red Rivers, all of them of
great depth, length, and volume of water,
swallowed in rapid succession; when he
sees this mighty river absorbing them all,
and retaining a volume apparently un-
changed, he begins to estimate rightly the
increasing depths of current, that must
roll on in its deep channel to the sea.
Steaming out at the Balize, homeward
bound, and sailing with a good breeze for
hours, the traveller sees nothing on any
side but the turbid waters of the Missis-
sippi, long after he is out of sight of land.
But we anticipate-we have reached New
Orleans, and our journey, for the present,
is ended. Once comfortably domiciled at
the St. Charles or the St. Louis, the trav-
eller will have ample time to lay out his
own plans for the future.
After playing the part of Guide so long,
we part company with our reader with no
little regret. We leave him in the midst of
a people conspicuous alike for their hospi-
tality and their courteous attention to
strangers, wishing him, however or wher-
ever he may go, a bon voyage, and a safe
return from his Southern Tour.
Baton Rouge. (See chap. on Louisiana.)
Plaquemine, in Iberville Parish, Lou-
isiana, is the next landing of any im-
portance. It is situated near the mouth
of the Plaquemine Bayou, 23 miles south
of Baton Rouge. Previous to the war
large amounts of cotton were shipped to
New Orleans from this point. Fifty miles
south of Plaquemine the old Jefferson
College rises in view on the left bank of
the river, and, in a couple of hours more,
the quaint old church of Bonnet Carré is
passed. We are now rapidly approaching
the end of our long journey. Thirty-five
miles below Bonnet Carré the boat passes
in sight of the pleasant village of Carroll-
ton, beyond which, in a big bend of the
river, lies the Crescent City of the South.
As the boat steams to her landing on the
spacious Levée, the traveller will have a
fine opportunity afforded him of seeing
not only the business portion of the city To Island No. 1
but the young town of Algiers and other
neighboring points. He will also note a
material change in the aspect of the river.
No one who descends the Mississippi
River for the first time, receives clear and
adequate ideas of its grandeur, and the
amount of water it carries. If it be in
the spring of the year, when the river, be-
low the mouth of the Ohio generally
overflows its banks, although the sheet of
water that is making its way to the Gulf
Distances from the mouth of the Ohio River
to New Orleans.
Columbus, Ky..
Wolf's Island, or No. 5.
Hickman, Ky
Island No. 10..
New Madrid, Mo.
Point Pleasant, Mo.
Little Prairie, Mo
Needham's Island, and Cut-off
• · •
··
Ashport, Tenn
Osceola, Ark..
Plum Point..
1st Chickasaw Bluff..
Fulton, Tenn
Fort Randolph,
2d Chickasaw Bluff
# }
•
•
••••
•
··
Dorm
6
12
18
1 19
18
37
32 69
10 79
7
86
27 113
25 138
8 146
12 158
3 161
5 166
2 168
10 178
7
141
:
3d Chickasaff Bluff……
Greenock, Ark..
Wolf River,
Memphis, Tenn.
Norfolk, Miss..
Commerce, Miss
Peyton, Miss..
·
•
St. Francis River, and
Sterling, Ark.
Helena, Ark...
}......
Yazoo Pass, or Bayou,
and Delta, Miss.
Horse-shoe Bend..
Montgomery's Pt., Ark
Victoria, Miss.
White River, Ark.
Arkansas River,
Napoleon, Ark.
Bolivar Landing.
Columbia, Ark..
Point Chicot...
Greenville, Miss..
Grand Lake Landing, Ark.
Princeton, Miss..
Lake Providence, La
Tompkinsville, La.
Campbellsville, La..
Millikinsville, La..
Yazoo River, Miss., and
Sparta, La.
...
142
..
MuU
THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER.
17 195
20 225
20 245
10 255
17 272
31 303
13 316
10 326
10 336
8 344
58 402
4 406
16 422
13 435
53 488
4 492
4 496
536
5 541
19 570
15 585
16 601
10 641
8 619
•
··
40
·
Walnut Hille, Miss.
Vicksburg, Miss.
Warrenton, Miss..
Carthage Landing, La..
Point Pleasant, La...
Big Black River..
Grand Gulf, Miss.
St. Joseph's, La., and
Bruinsburg, Miss.
Rodney, Miss.
Natchez, Miss.
Ellis Cliff, Miss..
Homochitto River, Miss.
Fort Adams.
}
Red River Island….
Raccourci Cut-off and Bend..
Bayou Sara, St. Francisville,
and Pt. Coupée, La.
Port Hudson, La...
Baton Rouge, La...
Plaquemine, La..
Bayou La Fourche, and
Donaldsonville, La.
Jefferson College.
Bonnet Carré Church.
Red Church, La...
Carrollton, La.
Lafayette, La....
New Orleans, La..
··
..
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2 1026
STATIONERY.
D. APPLETON AND COMPANY,
IMPORT STATIONERS,
443 & 445 BROADWAY, NEW YORK.
STATIONERY, FOREIGN AND DOMESTIC,
In all its Branches.
BLANK BOOKS,
OF ALL DESCRIPTIONS, FROM STOCK OR MADE TO ORDER.
FRENCH PAPERS,
From the Celebrated D'Angouleme Mills.
ALEX. PIRIE & SON'S
EXTRA SUPERFINE NOTE PAPERS AND ENVELOPES.
Initial Stamping Presses and Dies,
For Colored and Plain Stamping.
PARKER'S TREASURY BLOTTING,
60, 80, 100, and 120 pounds, both White and Colored.
ARNOLD'S FLUID AND COPYING INK,
GUYOT'S FRENCH VIOLET COPYING INK.
Whatman's Drawing Papers.
ENGLISH ROLL DRAWING PAPERS.-DITTO MOUNTED ON CLOTH.
REYNOLDS & SONS' BRISTOL BOARDS.
VISITING CARDS. WEDDING ENVELOPES.
MONOGRAMS DESIGNED and ENGRAVED in the Best Style of the Art.
MOURNING STATIONERY,
Cards, Paper, and Envelopes, in any width of Border required.
D. APPLETON & CO.
443 and 445 Broadway,
NEW YORK,
PUBLISHERS,
STATIONERS, AND IMPORTERS.
LIBRARIES FURNISHED,
WHETHER FOR
Public Institutions or for Private Use.
Catalogues sent to any address on application.
WE PUBLISH
A LARGE VARIETY
OF
STANDARD SCHOOL BOOKS,
AMONG WHICH ARE TO BE FOUND
Webster's Speller,
Quackenbos' Series of Books,
Harkness' Latin Books,
Perkins' Arithmetics.
ALSO,
TEXT-BOOKS
In all the Modern Languages.

00
BARNUM'S CITY HOTEL,
MONUMENT SQUARE,
Thanks
38653
COLE
CIFY HOTEL VIC
LTH HOTELLEJA
MATTE
BUY HOST
Boitam BALTIMORE.
andone
B
1
BARNUM'S HOTEL
BARNUM & CO. Proprietors.
BENDANN BROTHERS'
GALLERIES OF PHOTOGRAPHY,
NEW YORK AND BALTIMORE.
NEW YORK,
|
Corner 5th Avenue and 17th St.
BALTIMORE,
207 Baltimore Street.
An interesting Collection of Pictures always on FREE
EXHIBITION.
Photography in all its Branches.
2
CANFIELD, BROTHER & CO.,
DEALERS IN
Watches, Fine Jewelry, Silver Ware;
SILVER PLATED GOODS OF BEST STYLES;
RICH PARIS FANCY GOODS;
Clocks, Bronzes, Vases, Fans, Opera Classes, &c.
ALSO,
MILITARY GOODS FOR ARMY AND NAVY,
229 Baltimore Street, BALTIMORE.
COLEMAN'S

EUTAW HOUSE,
BALTIMORE, Md.
R. B. COLEMAN.
3

Metropolitan Hotel,
RAJY12 1838 70
Dad D
FORMERLY
[XXXXXXXXIIIIII
11111
My toe Cheng m
404804
WASHINGTON CITY.
VATE
PENNSYLVANIA AVENUE,
CHALIW D 10
BROWN'S,TI
A
522S
ULUGH
TEREZAED
This fine establishment, with accommodations for three hundred persons, has
been newly fitted and furnished. Visitors will find it a most desirable Hotel to
sojourn at.
ЩО Л Я

EBBITT HOUSE,
IIIIIIIIIIIITI
IIIIIIIIIIIIII
IIIIIIIIIIIIII
Corner F and 14th Streets,
WASHINGTON, D. C.x
C. C. WILLARD,
Many years Proprietor Hygeia Hotel, Old Point. Comfort, Va.,
PROPRIETOR.
5
EXCHANGE HOTEL,


RICHMOND, VA.,
FORMERLY KEPT BY JOHN P. BALLARD.
This Leading Fashionable Hotel
Has been newly and elegantly furnished, and is now ready to extend "An Old
Virginia Welcome " to its patrons.
J. L. CARRINGTON,
A. J. FORD,
J. L. CARRINGTON & CO.,
Formerly of Bollingbrook Hotel, Petersburg, Va.
Late of American Hotel, Richmond, Va.
6
MILLS HOUSE,
Corner of Meeting and Queen Streets,
CHARLESTON. S.C.
Built in 1853 and furnished equal to any in the United States.
Entirely Refurnished in 1866.
JOSEPH PURCELL, Proprietor.
7
ESTABLISHED IN 1838.
JOHN K. RANDALL,
Bookseller and Stationer,
Printer & Blank Book Manufacturer,
No. 5 (old No. 44) NORTH WATER STREET,
Mobile, Ala.
T. S. BIDGOOD,
Bookseller, Stationer,
AND
BLANK BOOK MANUFACTURER,
Corner Water and St. Francis Streets,
MOBILE.
8
TITCOMB'S BOOK STORE,
Southeast Corner Dauphin and Royal Streets.
The undersigned will keep constantly on hand and for sale,
BOOKS AND STATIONERY,
CONSISTING OF
LAW, MEDICAL, THEOLOGICAL, SCHOOL, AND MISCELLANEOUS BOOKS
OF THE LATEST EDITION.
STATIONERY,
Consisting of PAPER and ENVELOPES of every description, size, and color. Also, a full
assortment of
BLANK
BOOKS.
INKS-Black, Blue and Red. SEALING WAX-Red, Blue and Fancy. Fairchild's GOLD
PENS. Lead PENCILS and Steel PENS, of various makes. WRAPPING PAPER and TWINE.
Photographic ALBUMS from 50 cents to $50. Photographic PICTURE FRAMES, 25 cents to $1.
School Books and Pocket Books.
POCKET KNIVES. Gold and Silver PENCIL CASES. PORTFOLIOS, WRITING DESKS, &c.
Together with a fine assortment of
FANCY GOODS.
ALL OF WHICH WILL BE SOLD AT THE LOWEST CASH PRICES.
F. TITCOMB, Southeast corner Dauphin and Royal Streets, Mobile.
PUTNAM & MALONE,
52 Dauphin Street, Mobile,
WHOLESALE AND RETAIL DEALERS IN
Books and Stationery,
MUSIC AND MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS.
Publishers' Trade Lists Wanted.
9
DENECHAUD'S
RESTAURANT AND
AND SALOON,
17 NORTH ROYAL STREET,
(OPPOSITE THE BATTLE HOUSE,)
BRANCH HOUSE:
MOBILE,
CORNER GROVE AND WALNUT STS., VICKSBURG, MISS.
Ed. DENECHAUD, Proprietor.
Private Rooms for Private Parties in Both Houses.
LUNCH AT ALL HOURS FOR TRAVELLERS.
LANIER HOUSE
Mulberry Street, Macon, Ga.
GEO. M. LOGAN, Proprietor.
Omnibus and Baggage Wagon at each Train to convey Passen-
gers and Baggage to the House.
FREE OMNIBUS TO AND FROM THE RAILROAD.
10
LITERARY EMPOR I U MY
J. W. BURKE & CO.,
MACON, Ca.,
Have established in this City
A FIRST-CLASS BOOK
BOOK
STORE,
Where they keep on hand and sell as low as possible, FOR CASH ONLY,
ALL KINDS OF
SCHOOL, MISCELLANEOUS, RELIGIOUS, JUVENILE, AND SABBATH SCHOOL
BOOKS.
FOOLSCAP, LETTER, AND NOTE PAPERS; INKS, PENS, AND ALL DESCRIPTIONS
OF PLAIN AND FANCY STATIONERY.
Photograph Albums in great variety, Card Photographs of Generals, Works of Art, &c.
SPECIAL AGENTS FOR SALE OF PUBLICATIONS OF
.New York, SHELDON & CO.,
New York,
IVISON, PHINNEY, BLAKEMAN & CO. 66
They also have an extensive
D. APPLETON & CO.,
H. S. BARNES & CO.,
66
Book and Job Printing House,
Where all kinds of work can be done. BINDING in every style neatly executed.
Give them a call.
JOSEPH M. BOARDMAN,
WASHINGTON
MACON, CA.
LAW, MEDICAL, SCHOOL, AND MISCELLANEOUS
BOOKS,
BLANK BOOKS, STATIONERY,
Drawing Material.
AND
BLOCK,

11

12
Hr
HI
10
Sure
STAINE
PAR AIR
ST. CHARLES HOTEL, NEW ORLEANS.
O. E. HALL, Proprietor.
DILLD

ΠΠ
ΠΠΠΠ
FOL
RECE HIS WIRE BUTTON CLATE
ΠΠΙ
ST. LOUIS HOTEL, NEW ORLEANS.
O. E. HALL, Proprietor.
13

PARIS, LONDON, AND NEW YORK FASHIONS.
14
W.LYONS & CO
777
CIG
CLOTHING & FURNISHING GOODS.
[!!!
TEXDINETTE COT
CLOTHING &FURNISHING GOODS WHOLESALER RETAIL
211718
THE
AIBATC
BOYS' CLOTHING EMPORIUM.TU02
SOUTHERN CLOTHING
CLOTHING ESTABLISHMENT.
L. W. LYONS & CO.,
NEW ORLEANS, LA.
WHOLESALE DEPARTMENT,
131 and 133 COMMON STREET.
RETAIL DEPARTMENT,
26, 28 and 30 St. Charles Street, corner Common.
LATEST STYLES CLOTHING,
FURNISHING GOODS,
Shirts, Trunks, Travelling Bags, Valises,
UMBRELLAS, WATER-PROOF GOODS, &c., &c.
MANUFACTORY OVER STORES.
A large assortment of French, English, German, and Ameri-
can Piece Goods. Latest styles, suitable to the
seasons, always on hand.
Clothing made to order in the most durable manner and approved styles, with
despatch.
L. W. LYONS & CO., New Orleans.
15

ST. JAMES HOTEL.
Magazine, between Gravier and Natchez Sts.,
New Orleans, La.
CHARLES E. SMEDES, Proprietor.
It is newly furnished from the kitchen to the roof. Spring Beds, Hair Mat-
tresses, Linen Sheeting, etc. The Furniture and Table Ware all new, of the latest
style and most costly Material. The Table is furnished with every luxury the Market
affords. The Bars with Liquors equal to any used in private families, and the com-
forts and pleasures of a home, as far as possible, guaranteed to its Guests. The
House itself may be said to be entirely new and fresh. The undersigned will spare
neither labor nor expense to merit a continuance of the liberal support with which he
has thus far been honored.
CHARLES E. SMEDES.
16
HORBACH'S

HOTEL

Columbus, Ga.
HORBACH & KERR, Proprietors.

COOK'S HOTEL,
Broad Street, Corner Crawford Street,
COLUMBUS, GA.,
SHIVERS, WYNNE & CO, Proprietors.
This House is centrally located, and the proprietors will spare no pains or ex-
pense for the comfort of their guests.
SHIVERS, WYNNE & CO.
17

OD LIOSTSTAD W
38
BURNET HOUSE,
9240 POLAT TAMALEFI AUTOT
22100
SILAS F. MILLER, Proprietor,
(Late of GALT HOUSE, Louisville, Ky.)
CORNER of THIRD and VINE STREETS,
00
CINCINNATI.
18
庄
​R. W. CARROLL & CO.,
117 West 4th Street, CINCINNATI,
PUBLISHERS, BOOKSELLERS & STATIONERS,

WHOLESALE AND RETAIL,
KEEP CONSTANTLY ON HAND
THE LARGEST AND BEST ASSORTED STOCK OF
BOOKS AND STATIONERY.
OF EVERY IMAGINABLE KIND, TO BE FOUND IN ANY HOUSE
IN THE MISSISSIPPI VALLEY.
By the recent fire at Pike's Opera House Building we lost our entire stock, but
have purchased an entirely new, fresh, and well-selected one, which we offer at
REDUCED PRICES,
and will always sell on as favorable terms as the market will permit, or as any other
house can give. Among the great variety of articles sold by
R. W. CARROLL & CO.,
ARE THE FOLLOWING :
SCHOOL BOOKS
OF EVERY KIND, USED IN THE WEST,
Law Books, Medical Books, Scientific Books, Theological Books, Agricultural Books,
and all Varieties of Miscellaneous Books, including Histories, Biographies, Travels,
Novels, and Illustrated Works; Photograph Albums and Cards, Plain and Fancy
Letter and Note Paper, Foreign and Domestic Stationery, Foolscap and Flatcap Paper,
Gold Pens, Inkstands, Steel and Quill Pens, Lead Pencils, Chess Boards, Cribbage
Boards, Paper Weights, Paper Cutters, Card Cases, Pocket Books, Portfolios,
Writing Desks, Pocket Cutlery,
Diaries, Memorandum, Scrap, and Blank Books.
In fact, their stock includes every variety of Books and Stationery, which they
invite Dealers to examine before purchasing, as they are confident they offer the
greatest facilities, and can give satisfaction.
R. W. CARROLL & CO.,
117 West 4th Street, CINCINNATI.
19

0908 STYREND AT T
SOUTHERN HOTEL,
THEODORE LAVEILLE.
GEO. W. FORD.
St. Louis, Mo.
1030
TR
MAKHT
CHAS. P. WARNER.
20
31112
WALKER R. CARTER.
LAVEILLE, WARNER & CO.,
PROPRIETORS.10
E. JACCARD & CO.,
WHOLESALE AND RETAIL

WATCH MAKERS,

JEWELLERS,
AND
SILVER WARE MANUFACTURERS.
DEALERS IN
FINE JEWELRY AND FANCY GOODS,
PLATED WARE AND CUTLERY.
MILITARY GOODS.
LINE OFFICERS, STAFF, MEDICAL, PAYMASTERS, & GENERAL OFFICERS
United States Regulation
SWORDS, BELTS, SABRES, ETC., ETC.
GOLD TRIMMINGS, PASSANTS, WREATHS, BUGLES, BUTTONS,
REGIMENTAL FLAGS, ETC.,
Of all qualities, constantly on hand.
75 Marble Building, Fourth Street,
ST. LOUIS.
21
SHERMAN
HOUSE,


CHICAGO,
This Hotel is located on the
Corner of Clark and Randolph Streets,
OPPOSITE COURT HOUSE SQUARE;
Was first opened to the public in July, 1861; is the largest Hotel in Chicago, and
one of the finest in the United States; and has all the modern
improvements, including a Passenger
Elevator.
GAGE, WAITE & CO.,
Proprietors.
}
22

A. H. MILLER,
Southeast Corner of Randolph and Clark Streets,
CHICAGO.
WATCHES,
21
A large assortment
OF
Pure Coin
SILVER-WARE,
Constantly on hand
AND
MADE TO ORDER
IN
DIAMONDS,
Any Style.
Bronze
Statuettes,
Marble Clocks,
FANS,
&c.
ローロー​ワール
​AIMILLER
FINE GOLD JEWELRY,
A fine Selection
OF
Musical
Boxes,
With Choice
Church and Opera
MUSIC,
OR
Made to Order;
OPERA GLASSES,
Writing Desks,
CANES,
&c.
Western Agent for the Celebrated
PATEK, PHILIPPE & CO.
WATCH.
These Watches are universally acknowledged to be the strongest and most dura-
ble Fine Watches sent to America. They have all the latest improvements, such as
Fifth Seconds, Independent or Double Time, Repeating, Stem-Winding, or plain move-
ments.
Fine Watches carefully repaired by the most competent Workmen.
PRESENTATION JEWELRY,
of the newest and richest patterns, made to order in my own Factory over the Store.
23

OUR GOODS ARE ALL FIRST-CLASS.
EDWARD ELY,
DRAPER, TAILOR, AND
TAILOR, AND GENTS' FURNISHER,
111110
10000
ПІДЕГІ ДІЛІ ЛЕГІНІН
1000
COLLEGE Cg
MIU
ELY'S TAILORING AND FURNISHING HOUSE.
STAINL
HOUSE
98, 100, & 102 DEARBORN, cor. WASHINGTON STREET,
Midway between Tremont and Sherman House and Post Office,
CHICAGO.
WE WARRANT EVERYTHING AS REPRESENTED.
24

SHERMAN HOUSE,
CHICAGO.
-----CH
AAAG
AA
เกา
BAKER
This Hotel is located on the corner of CLARK and
RANDOLPH STREETS, oppofite Court House Square;
was first opened to the public in July, 1861; is the largeſt
Hotel in Chicago, and one of the fineft in the United States;
and has all the modern improvements, including a Paffenger
Elevator.
GAGE, WAITE & CO., PROPRIETORS.
25

26
111177 11TTTT TTTT
TTII
II
7777 TTTTTT
Ingge
11
IT
A
Fronting on Washington Ave., Sixth, Seventh, & Green Sts.
THE MONTRE
LINDELL HOTEL, ST. LOUIS, MO.,
EXPOLA
KINNERSLEY-JOHNSON
HATCH, WEAVER, FELT & CO., PROPRIETORS.

îm
Im mm
ÂÂ
ק שורש
Fifth Avenue and Madison Square.
TRX
19001 DOGTOT AN DODOMA DEODORA
GALERY
MG M
TT
III
IT
HOFFMAN HOUSE,
110-
Mount
100
TAROT
OHMSCH
MITCHELL & READ.
27

NATIONAL STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY,
AL STE
SHIPS.
ENGLAND.....
SCOTLAND.
VIRGINIA
HELVETIA.
THE QUEEN
ERIN..
NEW YORK TO LIVERPOOL,
Calling at Queenstown to Land Passengers.
PENNSYLVANIA
LOUISIANA.
DENMARK...
(LIMITED.)
wwwwww
FRANCE.
GERMANY.
TONS.
..3,450...
..3,698..
.3,310...
3,315.
..3,517...
3,310....
.2,872....
...
COMMANDERS.
Grace.
.Hall.
..2,166...
3,117..
..3,200...
.3,100..
Leaving Pier No. 47 North River every SATURDAY and
Alternate WEDNESDAY.
.Prowse.
...Ogilvie.
.Grogan.
...Cutting.
Lewis.
Thompson.
Thompson.
..(Building).
(Building).
AN
These steamers were build under inspection, and are classed Lloyd's A1 for
twenty-one years. The accommodations for Passengers are unsurpassed, and they are
supplied with every comfort and luxury-with lower rates for passage than any other
Line. The State Rooms open directly into the Saloon. Steerage Passage includes an
unlimited supply of Fresh Provisions cooked and served up by the Company's
Provisions cooked
Stewards.
An experienced Surgeon on each ship free of charge.
Cabin Passage $100: Steerage, $30. Payable in Currency.
Steerage Passage tickets to bring parties from Liverpool or Queenstown for $40,
Currency
Drafts for any amount issued on any Bank in Great Britian and Ireland, at the
lowest rate.
The owners of these vessels will not be accountable for specie or valuables, unless
bills of lading, having their value expressed thereon, are signed therefor.
Apply in Liverpool at the Office of the National Steam Navigation Company
(Limited), W. B. Macalister, Manager, No 14, the Albany, Old Hall-street, and 57 and
58 Waterloo-road.
For Freight or Cabin Passage apply at the Office of the Company, No. 57 Broad-
way, and for Steerage Tickets at the Passage Office of the Company, No. 27 Broad-
way, or No. 275 Pearl Street.
F. W. J. HURST, Manager.
28

LA PIERRE HOUSE,
JO
con
ELIF ΕΙΕΙΕΕΕΙ:
LARSEN
80
Hath Taggmin
BROAD AND CHESTNUT STREETS,
PHILADELPHIA.
WARL
хаи
29
ONE OF THE BEST FIRST-CLASS HOTELS
Of the Country.
T
GOB
DRIV
TEET
Wing
The undersigned, having leased the above favorite house, and having REFITTED
AND REFURNISHED IT THROUGHOUT IN THE MOST ELEGANT MANNER,
will spare no pains to maintain the character it has always enjoyed, as
WW
BAKER & FARLEY.
MATE
JAMES E. CALDWELL & CO.,
No. 822 CHESTNUT STREET,
(Adjoining Continental Hotel),
PHILADELPHIA,
IMPORTERS, MANUFACTURERS, AND DEALERS IN
DIAMONDS and PRECIOUS STONES,
SUITES OF
RICH JEWELRY,
Fine Watches, Traveling Timepieces,
MANTEL CLOCKS, REAL BRONZES,
CANDELABRAS, STATUARY AND VASES, SILVER-
WARES OF EXQUISITE DESIGNS,
RARE NOVELTIES, FANCY ARTICLES,
And every production of Induſtry and Art appertaining to the
business of
GOLDSMITHS AND SILVERSMITHS.
FIXED PRICES IN PLAIN FIGURES.
Strangers are cordially invited to visit this Establishment,
whether their object be to purchase or otherwise.
30

231A
Continental Hotel,
COLLELY
Ch
PHILADELPHIA.
IIIII
AAACU
WA
ARE
2:00:00-0
ORAM
31
UNLVIN
Goty
OR TUD
AMY
J. E. KINGSLEY & CO.,
LICH
Proprietors.

CHARLESTON HOTEL,
1000
CHARLESTON, S. C.
CANDLES
HEDONATIO
This popular and well-known Hotel, situated in MEETING STREET corner of
HAYNE, has been newly furnished throughout, and cannot be excelled by any in the
country.
WM. WHITE, Proprietor.
S. F. STORM,
FASHIONABLE HATTER,
HOWARD HOTEL, 178 BROADWAY,
NEW YORK.
Latest Style of Gents' Hats and Caps always on hand, and
Made to Order in the Best Manner.
EVERY DESCRIPTION OF FURS IN THEIR SEASON.
32
J
1.
***
THE UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
GRADUATE LIBRARY
JUN 16 1973
DATE DUE

į
4
A

4.
ļ
¦
:

THE
ALPHEUS FELCH HISTORICAL LIBRARY
AA
BEQUEATHED
TO THE
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
BY THE
HON. ALPHEUS FELCH.
1896.
AdA
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