En . Russell . 140 1 RU . * HUN ! 722 .467 ANNUAL REPORT 1 i EU! OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK TO THE "IITTI I1 SECRETARY OF THE INTERIOR Iyil FOR THE YEAR 1880. Do WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE, w nload 1881. ANNUAL REPORT OF THE -4.5 SUPERINTENDENT OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK TO THE SECRETARY OF THE INTERIOR FOR THE YEAR 1880. WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 1881. / اس -م 3 ) رب - أ . ۔ مربری مجسمه : . نتم م ) یه و ::: : ده ره جس بسمه وه مه و مش مهم گا۔ ر دے - ه ای 4 مج و : . من شاه دننهنم 1 وان محنت سے هو : م- صحي " : , مد جد : د :. . عيون - رجيم | از 17{{ د : ! ! وه {! حد رہے \NW ن مبر م ! ا E او بد ا , چوتجدد دس سید مجتمع وع . داد : : . مرار . تار ::: . .. .. ! . ! بت .: . افتتحت وعده ها به سمت به دستماع م به .. . . . بالمبار ياته است نم ; ور 11 : ا : -مج مد سهمون سهم بمصهم . و ا ود { دنیا به * "-- . . . . . . محمدمعصومهددددد مي . . . ممسلين - - - - - . ... ا لمغسلهم . - . * ام " | : _ . و 11 : مر مع -1 : سیست و 1 - . - | . - - - .در : : 10 ! م .::ت و لا و . . ۳, ایسا تا مل . :: . " : رد ارد " با مم . د وو ه مه ليل ا مهمه " ته * * " بالا به من نشان داده اند و . هو . ن می . م ج r: | : امام : . " مهاو تم : هوا . برای همه ورم 1: مد : .دا 4 . - و ا . 11 !! . . * به هر م 14. 421 . , . . ::. .:.:. 1 1 مو ,ة و :::: * 1 . : . . 4 :: - :: یاد کر ::: دور ر دورا ن بارداری ." زم .: 1 مر . . م " . و تا / 77... ahi بے اجمدة . ". ا S . وان " . . "WIT, : : اج .شد * و : ::. ود * می 2 ) الاول : :::: از " . ا را - /.../// 1 م 1: 36 ; مد . تهیه مسی . ۱۱IF : : اد * اے : 11 می و نعمة من / پیام S :: :: دسه 1 . 1 ::::: می و مه It ". مد . د به . ستم ل س . بس : : . اس اه ... SNN و مو . 4 . -7 : = = : ماه :: مس - . وید مل . و 1 ار : . ... : اد نور ا ! : : مل ه نا . " . م 4 الا ا یعه و :: : :. . = ها با + . وتم ا " . .یست a ( 2 مدا لاه در و " 1 . : 1 م م ر را * . " د علمي اله " نه 1 یا | i24 تم و من دارند د د پر وت - : : - مت مره : : وبعد نه ده ن رام : ا و ا . ' م | م : " سید ، مم . لال 10 ج الله: قد ان ا : م امان : 1 4 د رد . سبط اد 15. و ابدی -بعد بدهید 1 : . - عاد مه . از .. رز : 11 . " : ،، امی همه اد as ہو ' :: طارمد . عن وفي . اه مد مس ا اد . ا ما ة . وه 1 1 به = ایریا S مد | د ما S وبعده . . سید ) ته مه هه = = . سارا میرے *. جا ا العمر : سم جواد : * هه داع نه بوت ج ب نز س نے دی لاد وه با . . ... . 1 وبعد اد من. جم ارد و - .. وذ .. سم * . به . . . هد ہم تته. ج ۔ = -ة م = ما : ها می رده 12 - . مو = . . . 1 . واج . = : دن مست : : . 35 : و : . : ا " ،من - 1 : حه او ... تننسه ا NSYS X جدا : = مه اوم . ۱ - همه م ان ممے iii }:'' ' م ات مه : . : : من د ما S هدايت : سی ۔ . ات . ' عين : د " ههه من الله محمد ت جسس وع :: . تار و : فه به .... من - ا د .: جام مز۱۱ و دود .و به ما وراء اے وام - ساج ا مهر - : :" " - W * بهم ه ا : : ہ کتا /لية : اه و ده 3 سب م ر. هم زمام جا هم ته مه ة ار . تومان ة م حمد ا و وجا دست ة .مت ا . م جسمه و به اند . . او S . مع 1 ه مس .. . . \ احمد محمد محمد . " بما وال وحد سب می ه جده ,ا خت دیده به . و از ا و مست . ا * - ند ومسجد یه * انہ بید هد جد مي امام : و دی . و م سجد ده فه " به اه مستل معاني بجد د ; الالم ئا:۔ ال جی مراسم هيهة میدهد وال ہ ... معیت = و جی ا هم زی | 1 . مود . و : * : .: فنون ] : : سات باد IIIII . .. : زند تارتام ته : ". ران ,U : ته جهة ههههههههههههههههههه هم بود ده . سیم سی سی ام و المهم سيووه م دود = = = و اشت . . . . . : . مه. . مه م - - في رم ما | .. ... - ---- .. بن ب سید - بس مام عي امی من است : مرمر جام :: برا مع لارا : م دربة : تست ام دروس مصر ا مر ما ہے ۱۱۱ لابه لا مصمم به رد , دان ر م نحصر دج حجم - . . - = = به کمک 5 اس و تا کند د د : / م مه . ونا وا مد : " فيه . ! م همة جد . . == = " .. .-نتي .. داد ه . رم . . سے . . . . .. ... . 18 . . . /////// سجاد ست مشت : . منها . : :د سعی ا " X7 میده | . چی 2 هم : ۱ ا ا : ته مه ؟ * م4 مد " تدلع خدا به دست و . ه هههه : : تح | . به سكا به ۱۱ ت = حد بیانی III ما 1 ** مرد .. مد : : : سامنے عوام جمی معاد ماندو شده به ا ر تم و وت ه بحمدی = مجسمه ودمه .اه عباد " . وات . ملے اد بسسس متر منتسسسسیمه م - - ونوس زنیم می ه :: . " .. t . مه * . تور III : :: مع مهم مع : . - = ا ة اء مصممه . : سه - ب عد م ر ند " م " ا م اس . در مجتمع درد هایی دے : + اسی /// که ياسية ان دنل نسمع مهر .. ت ابة ( مدة :شد : ،ان اد و ج است و همدس متعة - در بسته والا د * اه * میده * : : ANY : ة سلام ده : " د مية عد و S . مردم سے بیمه ج . د ام ما متعدد . . مو مهم سید و ميان . . ه او هم : د . مام . 1 او و . : - م لا . و • د . مي و هم ' زاد : مم . .را با ما و مر امت صبر سلمت . ܓ کیس اه ما 1 ماجد ما و يه . . ر ندار - 1 1 اد متی ا حمد ما داده ا م | تا :اج هه ن ما - ۱ * وه علام = - - اند و !! ی وی - .هد مه . و پد - هو :بطن " . :: انه د " " • جه " و ج .خه . وم در . ما 1 S :: : . م سحر تست جدة T دومة : - is ( خبر :تابان دم گری * ود ج ! دود والاجهم : : : - , S . وه ها 4 ا . . ! * . اما i جه : ا : د ۔ يوم , - لما . . , . و . : :11 - - م . , , در . أي :مماسيه ا مج ا م ما ۲۰ " | اتنا اسی مسیح : . کو و . .. - أ . . . . : مرد .. - = . 10 الم ' ر + * = 1 : ک ار 1 وزنه یا وه = دلم . جد دمة * له : : هم بل X - جی - : - جا H " ملے ۔ :تل .نجمن ا ور '' دد ات مج 1 = &, Devil's Thumb. f. M Curtney's Buildings. e. Liberty Cap. d. Mt. Washhurne. c. Hadquarters of Superintendent. a. Basaltic Cliffs. l. Falls of the East Gardiner. n. Corrall i. Barnu. h. Hot Spring Terraces. in. Reseroit 3. Blacksmith Shop ا MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS,YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. WY. TER. 3. Backsmith Shep m. Reseroir * Thompsons Pout 2. Mt. Stephens TABLE OF CONTENTS. Page. ........ ---- Explorations .......... Hoodoo region ........ Gallatin Range...--... Madison Plateau ...... Mount Stephens Trail . Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone Yellowstone Lake ....... Roads, bridges, and trails ...... Trail of the Middle Gardiner .. Guide-boards.. Objects of scientific interest.. Geysers and other springs Cold pure-water springs ....... Cold medicinal springs ........ Warm mineral springs......... Warm medicinal springs ...... Hot foaming or laundry springs...... Terrace-building springs.................. Pulsating geysers ........................................... Liberty Cap Geyser's cone .... Spouting or intermittent geysers ....................... Fossil forests ...................................................... Natural bridge ..............-nc-..-................................. Gold and silver mines ..................... Sulphur, alum, &c ...... Headquarters of the Park............................. Boundaries of the Park ........................... ....... Crow Indian treaty ....... Sheepeater and Bannock Indians ............................. Report of the gamekeeper ....................... History of the Park ....................................... Aborigines of the Park ........ Habitations of white men within the Park...... .. Water-craft of white men .............................. Bridges ............................................... Animals of the Park................................. Birds of the Park................................ Fishes of the Park........ Insects of the Park ...... Reptiles of the Park..... Timber of the Park ...... Climate of the Park ..... Routes to the Park ...... Conclusion............ Appendix ....... Report of gamekeeper..... Act of dedication........... Rules and regulations......... Appeal ........................ Weather record ................. Routes in the Yellowstone National Park... 04 U v wUY ...... ..... . .... .. .. .... .... ... - - - .. . ... .. .. . .... . ........ ................. .. ......... .................-.-.. ..-...-...----•-•.-.....-- -. *............... .... .. ................-- ....... ........................ LIST OF PLATES. Mammoth Hot Springs (frontispiece). Hoodoos, or Remnants of Erosion in the Goblin Labyrinths ........ Southeastern Extremity of Yellowstone Lake................ Map of Yellowstone National Park........................................... ANNUAL REPORT OF THE Vn IMAN SUPERINTENDENT OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. PINT UNINI 1 TL HEADQUARTERS MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, WYOMING, November 30, 1880. Hon. CARL SCHURZ, Secretary of the Interior : SIR: I have the honor to submit the following report of operations during the year 1880 for the preservation, protection, and improvement of the Yellowstone National Park (the fourth which I have submitted to the department), and to respectfully request that if approved it may be printed. Soon after the negotiation in Washington of treaties with the Crow, Shoshone, Bannack, and Sheepeater Indians, who had been either abo- riginal owners of, or occasional troublesome ramblers in portions of the Park, I proceeded, via Omaha and Ogden, to the agency of a part of the Shoshone and all the Bannock and Sheepeater Indians on the Ross Fork of Snake River, in Idabo Territory. Řere and at a mountain camp twenty miles distant I obtained, partly through the assistance of the affa- ble and efficient agent of these tribes, Major Wright, and subsequently by my own personal efforts with Major Jim's band of Bannocks, at Ruby Valley, Montana Territory, a solemn promise from all these Iudians to abide by the terms of their treaty in Washington, and also that there- after they would not enter the Park beyond Heart Lake, thus averting in future all danger of conflict between these tribes and laborers or tourists. To this agreement I am gratified to report their faithful adherence. Proceeding on the Utah Northern Railroad to its terminus at Red Rock, and thence by coach through Virginia City to Bozeman, I there met my competent assistant, Mr. C. M. Stephens, with teams and an escort. His report of the snows and streams within and adjacent to the Park, corroborated as it was by persons at Bozeman and my own expe- rience in crossing the chilly waters of swollen streams, induced me to in- form the Chief Signal Officer at Washington, by telegram, of the back- wardness and unusual coldness of the season, and also of the unprece- dented depth of snow in the mountain passes and the floods in the valley streams, so that a warning might be given to any who contem- plated a visit to the Park the present year, to defer the same until at least late in July, Ignorance of or inattention to this timely warning, by a number of tourists, resulted in many otherwise needless hardships, privations, and delays to themselves, and much unjust criticism and censure to myself. Quickly procuring an outfit, arranging field parties, and leaving the train to follow, I left Bozeman, with the horsemen, on the 1st day of July, reaching here, eighty miles distant, on the evening of the 2d, our YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. wagons being delayed by terrific hail-storms until the 5th. On this date, Mr. O. J.; Salesbury, with five horsemen, arrived by the Geyser route, on a tour of inspection of the road from the Utah Northern Railway for a coach and mail route; and being desirous of my assistance in selecting and reopening the same across the Park, before deciding to close a mail contract, I returned, in company with him and Mr. James Goodwin, one of my old scouts, over the Geyser road to the falls of the Gibbon. Having effected one crossing of this stream by swimming its swollen, ice-cold waters, and in the same manner having made five crossings (within a distance of six miles) of the waters of the Madison in its cañon, we reached the open valley below. The members of the party were unani- mously of the opinion that this Cañon route was dangerous, if not, in- deed, impassable during a large part of each year, and that it was likely to continue so during 1880, and there was neither time nor means to con- struct bridges or grades this season for a coach and mail route from the railroad direct to the headquarters of the Park. We were therefore com- pelled to seek a new route of entrance to the Madison end of the Park, and an arduous effort was immediately made to discover a more favora. ble approach. The rugged mountains to the north were evidently im- passable, while we were ignorant as to whether the rocky cliffs of the southern elevated timber plateau had ever been scaled by either explorer or mountaineer. Scattering in parties of two, we attempted the ascent, and, though some were baffled by cliffs or cañons, within two days a route was discovered so unexpectedly favorable that its adoption and opening were immediately determined upon. Mr. Salesbury, leaving his men to construct a mail station where the cut-off would strike the Madi- son at Riverside, returned East to close his mail contract, while I returned to headquarters, remaining there until I had built an excellent black- smith shop and barn, and repaired the bridges, fences, and grades in the vicinity. Subsequently, with some thirty men, two wagons, and a pack train, I started upon the Geyser road for the Fire Holes. No one, lacking practical experience with untimely Sierra snows and floods, can form an adequate conception of the difficulties of repairing or constructing grades, culverts, or bridges, over fifty miles of mountain roads of the character of those in this region. All difficulties were, how- ever, finally surmounted, and after fording both the Fire Hole Rivers near their forks with my party, I ascended a stream from the west, mak- ing camp where a bison-trail descended from the plateau to a cold-spring rivulet on the margin of a lovely, grassy valley, which, being dotted with spouting hot springs, we called Geyser Meadows. As our proposed road was to descend from the plateau on a long, natura , winding turnpike between two cañons near the Forks of the Fire Holes, three miles distant, we opened the bison-trail for the saddle and pack animals to the line of road, exploring and working both ways. The cold-water streams of the valleys were still swollen, and numerous old snow-drifts remained upon the plateau ; yet there were neither springs, streams, nor even lakes, the porous lava-ashes and loose gravel of the soil having speedily absorbed all the melted snow, while during the last five days of July the temperature was so low that a sufficient quantity of water was obtainable only by thawing snow-drifts, great piles of tim- ber being heaped upon them and burned for that purpose. Although strongly flavored with smoke, pitch, and sometimes with alkali, this water was tolerably potable, and sufficed to quench our thirst until a cold rivu- let was discovered just above its sink at the west foot of the plateau. Three miles from here we made the Madison below the cañon, twenty-one miles by that route and fifteen via the new one over the plateau from the YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. Forks of the Fire Holes. We reached this point, where the Riverside mail station is now established, on the 7th of August, subsequently improving somewhat the northern ascent to the Terrace. This route possesses the advantage of being always dry; it is also well shaded by beautiful pine forests, and is six miles shorter than the Cañon route; besides, by this road, while there would be the expense for two long and somewhat steep grades, the necessity of building four long bridges and several expensive grades, exposed to snow-drifts and floods, on the old road would be obviated, and it is more than probable the new route would never be abandoned, although if necessary the old one could be used for a brief period each summer. While on a tour of the more important portions of the Park, in August, with the honorable Secretary of the Interior and his party, the main force of laborers continued improving the Geyser road and other routes in that portion of the Park. Soon afterwards, with a small party and pack train, I proceeded from our headquarters to the Great Falls of the Yellowstone. Having bridged several streams, including Cascade Creek at Crystal Falls, opened trails, and rendered safe the lookouts at main points of interest, as at Great Falls and the upper portion of the Grand Cañon, I left most of the party to open a trail along its brink, and, in company with Messrs. Jack Davis and W. H. Parker, both excellent navigators, ascended the Yellowstone River to its lake, and in a small, unsafe craft, called the Explorer, made the tour of the latter and its islands. We also ascended Pelican Creek and the Upper Yellowstone River to their rapids. After encountering several heavy gales, one severe snow-storm, and a shipwreck, I ascended Mount Chittenden and other peaks of the range, crossed two passes to the Passamaria or Stinking Water branch of the Big Horn River, and returned to the foot of the lake and falls. Thence, while the main force was opening a trail between Mount Wash- burn and the Grand Cañon, with a small party I opened a route of ascent to the former, and also one of descent to the latter, where, at a depth of 1,300 feet, was found a beautiful and unique geyser basin, whence, by exceedingly toilsome and dangerous sheep-paths, we de- scended (mainly within) and explored the Grand Cañon to Tower Falls. This trail is much shorter and better than the old one over Mount Wash- burn, and opens up such matchless scenery along the Grand Cañon that it will doubtless soon supplant it. Finding at the Forks of the Yellowstone the noted guides Rowland and Miller, with the famous photographer of the Park, Mr. H. B. Calfee, my assistant, Mr. W. H. Parker, and myself joined them, and with them constituted the first party of visitors. to the famous and exceed- ingly interesting medicinal springs, Hoodoo Basin, the matchless dikes and other unique marvels of the East Fork regions. During this trip I ascended several snowy peaks of the broken and elevated Sierra-Shoshone Range, which extends from Pilot Knob to the Wind River range, and from a monument which I erected on Hoodoo Mountain took bearings of Mounts Washburn, Ohittenden, Doane, Ste- venson, and Pilot Knob, and of the Yellowstone and other lakes. My return was via the petrified forests at the head of Pleasant Valley, headquarters being reached on the 4th of October. While absent, my trusty gamekeeper, Harry Yount, who had left us at the foot of Yellowstone Lake, explored alone its western borders, the Shoshone, Lewis, Heart, and other lakes, and the basins of Barlow and Upper Snake Rivers, and, after tracing some excellent trail routes, and obtaining much useful and valuable information, returned just in advance of our party. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. The season for labor in the Park continued, as it had begun, later than usual, permitting work upon the various bridle-paths and on the road up the Gardiner River. A good and well-located house was also constructed for the gamekeeper at the mouth of Soda Butte, a branch of the East Fork of the Yellowstone, and a favorite winter haunt of elk and bison. This, and my own explorations of the Gallatin Range, kept the entire party active until well into October, when most of the labor- ers were discharged. With the remainder, buildings and fences were repaired, tools and implements gathered and secured, and other prepa- rations made for winter just in time to escape its severity amid the snowy peaks and passes. Elk, deer, and other game being driven by storms into the sheltered glens and valley, we were enabled to secure an abundant winter's supply of fresh meat, and also fine hides of the bear, wolf, and wolverine. Although severe and dangerous, hunting in the Park was excellent sport, and the only recreation I enjoyed during the season. During the autumn, observations, and visits to Gamekeeper Yount's house, thirty-five miles distant one way, and to neighbor Marshall's, at the Forks of the Fire Holes, fifty miles the other; closing up business and preparing this report, including accompanying maps, tables of eleva- tions of inountains ascended, and records of weather regularly entered, kept me actively employed until my departure late in November. At that time I left Harry Yount with one man at the gamekeeper's cabin on the East Fork of the Yellowstone, and my assistant, Stephens, with three men and the animals, at the Mainmoth Hot Springs, and returned to Bozeman to liquidate my remaiuing indebtedness for outfit and sup- plies for the season. Thence, by coach, I went to Dillon, the present terminus of the Utah Northern Railroad, and by that road to Ogden, where I took the usual railroad route and returned to the East. EXPLORATIONS. As stated in my report of 1879, the want of funds adequate to such protection and improvements as are absolutely required in the Park has constantly prevented explorations not only desirable in the interest of science, but also necessary to an intelligent and judicious expenditure of the funds actually appropriated. The appropriation for the past season, however $15,000), was a sufficient increase over that of the pre- vious year to admit of the employment of an active and reliable gaine- keeper, who, besides attending to his regular duties, made, during the season, interesting explorations (see his appended report), and also to enable me during the favorable autumn to make extensive and valuable explorations in the known as well as in the hitherto unknown portions of the Park, accounts of which will be found throughout this report. : HOODOO REGION. This is a mountain phrase which for years has been applied to a terri- bly broken and eroded portion of the Sierra-Shoshone Range around a portion of the head branches of the East Fork of the Yellowstone and the Passamaria or Stinking Water Fork of the Big Horn, and which, until my own visit of this season, had never been visited by any of the scien. tific tourists or government explorers of the National Park. In fact nearly all that was previously known of this region was from informa- tion derived from a small party of prospecting miners, two of whom, ا التها و ته دن S سی 700f * ؟ - عم S موسسه 878 جد نه.. . مه سے ؟ . تم -هه--- :تحححنه اس مد -- | | او او در \ پا و "لا . . % 5f دیسی م هم جم : س. ب . تیر \\ معي • هم سریش کرنے soft. . د یده به ت نه عدد سسی اد . . . .. . . تله - مين شده سوت سے ہر م حد در - HOODOOS Or remnants of erosion in the Goblin Labriinths ...د UM mart IRR.. V .. . WANT . ily . . PT. . . 30 ft. . 70 .. . 1 AS . .. . . 1 . 1 S . { 125 ft. NAVE .. . . 2 A3 1 N NA WW 2 ! Er - 1 marca 2X AU !!! NINI DI NINN UDAI. PS ETU UZ ANA .WIV 116 $ .4'. CWN414 28 NAV.lt TID! WARS' W 1 UT PE hu 1 * com HOM RSSIT ! . .. 11 . WL . L TA , ML 2 7 . . 22 LA . . .. ! W ! 1 AI / S SON - L1 S - 24 'Y . VA . . SA 0,1 - -.- , ili 1 DAX 1 DIM . . .1 Si ... LI w JIL GU HOODOOS Or remnants of erosion in the Goblin Labyrinths Nina : TENTU vt ACTIVE N12 CP . . ICI 2 1 DUL Art . . . . .. . VY 1." . 1112 XV ab - . INNMA VIIHIIII/ . MINIMIIIIII A V 1 . . * .-. URE OUT LV NINI 0.01 + . . . SNIAI 21.ZO. HALL PR. ' F ! 2 NYI -- "17* / IR . VOX LUXU 1 . 1!A1 ! .. som . . A . . . WHE 1 ! ( . N . UN:. 70 HETER R mais angers and SIN . . . . 1 . 12 DAN . LA - i . V TO > . 1 CE V .. .. TZ * 19 1 TL . a .. . ... 24118 --- V U/ . . - WER WW? VAT VA . . .. . . .. . .. SYS * Ir HII . SINUS RE VIDEO . www IN . . .11 .* 111 101 7 ICO AN . . w . 2 LO . . 1 .. - WA . 21 . OS vi .. Be H . NO TALE 2717 KLASSNI MAN 2 TA NO 11 W PO 25 ft. . SE 212 HV . KAN huy . Y . RES 6 > 40 ft. BUHIHUTUBE Oy . . DIA WWS . . 1. Us . , 20 A TVN Yat YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. Crandall and Adains, were killed by Indians, while three others, Adam Miller and his two companions, narrowly escaped, after losing their horses and camp outfit, and were compelled to make a long and terribly trying retreat to the Old Crow Indian Agency in the faīl of 1870. It was this party which discovered the Clark's Fork mines, and this region of countless remnants of erosion, so wild, weird, and spectral that they named it the “ Hoodoo” or “Goblin Land. Few white men have visited it, and fewer still who have ventured there returned. Miller, Rowland, and myself narrowly escaped from the Indians during our effort to visit: it in the fall of 1878; but seeing no Indians in the Park this year, and deeming it important to ascertain the true character of this region before fixing the permanent boundaries of the Park, with Miller, Rowland, and others, late this season, I made another effort to explore it. Ascending the deep, narrow valley of the East Fork of the Yellowstone, I visited a sulphur basin near the mouth of Cache Creek, and found upon it, two miles from its mouth, an important basin of medicinal springs, some of which are evidently similar to those of the Soda Butte, while others are: of alum or sulphur; and in the channel of the stream several huge, hiss- ing caldrons of hot water of unknown properties. Some seven miles above Cache Creek we passed the mouth of another stream in a deep, narrow, timbered valley which we named Calfee Creek, after the famous photographer of the Park. Five miles farther on we reached the creek which Miller recognized as the one he descended in retreating from the Indians in 1870, and which, on this account, we called Miller's Creek. Some miles from the mouth on a southern branch of this stream we found another basin of mineral springs similar to, and in a nearly direct line south of, those upon the Soda Butte and Cache Creek. Ascending Miller's Creek to its forks, and, by long and severe effort, scaling the elevated plateau between them, within forty miles from the mouth of the Soda Butte we found the decaying brands of Miller's old camp-fire. Just above were still standing the poles of one Indian lodge, while there were more than forty others that had fallen, but which evi- dently had been used the previous year; many still older also remain to mark this habitat of the red man. These poles are near the summit of an open, grassy pass between Hoodoo and Miller Creeks, close by a dwarf-timber-fringed pond at the foot of an old snow-field on the side of Parker's Peak, and within sight and easy striking distance of rough, elevated passes to Crandall's Creek (a branch of Clark's Fork), and other passes to the Stinking Water Hidden upon the flanks by snowy mountains, and in the pass by a screen of dwarf pines and balsams, and with a precipitous descent over the snow-fields to Hoodoo Creek, this Indian perch commands a fair view of all approaches. Abundant pas.. turage for game and domestic animals was had in the notches of the numerous adjacent cañons. This position, therefore, formed one of the most secure lairs and admirable lookouts for hostile Indians that I have ever met with, and also bears ample evidence of its frequent summer occupancy. Fragments of china-ware, blankets, bed-clothing, and costly male and female wearing apparel here found, were mute but mournful witnessess of border raids and massacres. Convinced that there were at that time no Indians in the vicinity, and leaving Handford with our animals at Miller's old camp, I pushed on some three miles to explore the Hoodoo Mountain and its labyrinths. While Miller with Calfee and Parker explored and obtained sketches and views of many of the weird wonders of erosion, with Rowland I ascended and took the elevations of the adjacent peaks, including the Hoodoo Mountain. The latter was found to be 10,700 feet bigh (ane- 8 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. roid-barometer measurement) at the western end, where we erected a monument. This mountain is about one mile in length, with a horizontal ridge. like crest, trending nearly northeast and southwest, and is the real water-shed of the various fountain-heads of the East and Clark's Forks of the Yellowstone, and nearly that of the Stinking Water branch of the Big Horn River; and though Saddle Mountain and some other adjacent peaks are somewhat higher, none of them are so isolated and prominent as a landmark. While probably never itself a crater, H00- doo Mountain is evidently of volcanic origin, and was eroded into its present form. Upon its southern face it is still changing. Here, ex- tending from 500 to 1,500 feet below the summit, the frosts and storms of untold ages in an Alpine climate have worn about a dozen labyrinths of countless deep, narrow, tortuous channels amid the long, slender, tottering pillars, shafts, and spires of the conglomerate breccia and other remaining volcanic rocks. In shape they are unlike any elsewhere known, being a cross between the usual spire and steeple form, and the slender-based, and flat, tottering, table-topped sandstone monuments near the Garden of the Gods, in Colorado; and while lacking the sym- metry and beauty of these, surpass both in wild, weird fascination. Here the sharp-cornered fragments of rocks of nearly every size, form, formation, and shade of coloring, by a peculiar volcanic cement attached sidewise, endwise, and upon the tops, sides, and, apparently, unsup- ported, upon each other, represent every form, garb, and posture of gigantic human beings, as well as of birds, beasts, and reptiles. In fact, nearly every form, animate or inanimate, real or chimerical, ever.. actually seen or conjured by the imagination, may here be observed. Language does not suffice to properly describe these peculiar formations; sketches may probably do something, and photographs more, to convey a conception of their remarkable character, but actual observation is absolutely necessary to adequately impress the mind with the wild un- earthly appearance of these eroded Hoodoos of the Goblin Land. These monuments are from fifty to two or three hundred feet in height, with · narrow, tortuous passages between them, which sometimes are tunnels through permanent snow or ice fields where the big-horn sheep hide in safety; while the ceaseless but ever-changing moans of the wild winds. seem to chant fitting requiems to these guome-like inonuments of the legendary Indian gods. Another feature of the Hoodoo region is worthy of more attention than it is here possible to give. I refer to the numerous huge dikes which trend uniformly in parallel lines nearly north and south, unaffected in course, size, or character by yawning cañons or the thousands of feet of craggy mountain sides, to their snowy summits, ever standing high above the softer and deeper disintegrating volcanic formations between them. While all basalt, obsidian, and other columnar formations observed within the Park, when found " in place,” are uniformly vertical or radi. ating, these dikes, although as clearly columnar, are, in every observed instance, positively horizontal, very hard, and not friable, and part, in columns entire, across the dikes, thus appearing like gigantic steps as- cending the cañon and mountain sides. GALLATIN RANGE. This range, so noted for its ragged basaltic formation, and sharp, un- broken crest north of Electric Peak upon the borders of the National Park, exhibits therein some novel peculiarities. Although retaining its ere . NO zo summorowi -- than La to 200 FÈ en ta weite SY NA TILS IT: Tuy m., 'movies HOODOOS Or remnants of erosion in the Goblin Labyrinths are PIA. W .. . 1 . . Hi .. ES 2011 111 · އހހހހހހހހހ Tiesa 11111111 soft. . . .. - 17 way to : 4., itv 9, Vore? " in car ... Praesen , 5. n ww w , illis Vision Mina vine cm F.D.O.: YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, north and south trend and character as a divide of the waters of the Yel- lowstone and Missouri, where it is severed by the yawning cañon of the Madison Fork of the latter, still on much of the intervening distance it presents not only a double line of peaks, but also a clearly distinct formation, outline, trend, color, and weathering of each. The western range, as viewed from the deep valleys of the West Gallatin and the Upper Madison Rivers, presents a nearly continuous outline of reddish rocks of a friable formation, like coarse-grained sandstone or crumbling granite, and serrated by the peaks of the somewhat higher eastern range. The eastern range, from the valleys of the Gardiner and the Gibbon, shows the sharp outlines of a light gray Carboniferous limestone upheaved to the vertical in cross-sections to the trend of the mountain, the intervening yawning cañon clearly revealing the contiguous western range. Thus not only have Mounts Holmes and Quadrant and Bell's Peak each a sharp, naked crest of nearly equal height, but also several , other peaks somewhat less elevated, but with outlines equally clear-cut; and where these cross-cañons reach the depression between the two ranges there are a number of small but beautiful Alpine lakes, notably high up on Mount Holmes, where at least three of them, in their deep, ultramarine waters, mirror in perfect but inverted beauty their dark fir and cedar borders, and the rocky crags, snowy sides, and naked crests of the surrounding peaks. To these interesting features of this prominent range add the great probability of finding inore valuable minerals than in any other part of the Wyoming portion of the Park, and we have an in- viting field for scientific research. Between Mount Holmes and Bell's Peak is the pass through which the hostile Bannocks entered the Park in 1870. There is also another pass north of Quadrant Mountain, and still a third south of Mount Holmes, all direct and of easy ascent through the main range from the east, but steep, precipitous, and difficult down the slopes of the western range. The main range, rising from the east in long, graceful, and well- timbered terraces to an altitude of about 9,000 feet, then separating into sharply-outlined peaks, naked but for patches of peripanent snow-fields, presents a beautiful appearance, particularly from the Terrace Pass and Gardiner Valleys. The western range, however, is more abrupt, contin- uous, and naked; but, serrated as it is by the three sharp crests of the eastern range, its outline is, perhaps, as interesting as that of the main range, as seen from the deep valleys of the West Gallatin and East Madison; while, seen from several of the peaks, the view in either direc- tion is extended and charming. It is also an excellent as well as an accessible region for game, the presence of big-horn upon its crests, grizzlies in its deep timber-bordered gulches, countless water-fowl in the emerald lakes of its terraced foot-hills, elk, deer, antelope, and occa- sionally bison, in its charming parks, glens, and lovely open valleys, constituting it a most prolific field for sport. MADISON PLATEAU. This mountain barrier, hitherto deemed inaccessible, was when I was forced to explore it, found to be a dry, undulating, but beautifully timbered plateau, allowing á judiciously located line of wagon-road with nowhere an elevation much in excess of 1,500 feet above the Forks of the Fire Hole River, and which is so much shorter, safer, and cheaper of con- struction and preservation than the old Cañon route that it will doubt- less supersede it. It also affords approaches to several interesting mottled obsidian cliffs and cañons, and to exceedingly favorable points 10 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. for observation of the Fire Hole Basins above, and the Upper Madison Valley, Tyghee's Pass, Henry's Lake region, and the Snowy Mountain borders below it. MOUNT STEPHENS TRAIL ROUTE. The great saving in distance by a trail from the Mammoth Hot Springs direct to the Great Falls of the Yellowstone, induced me to explore a route from the Cascades of the East Gardiner, through a pass in the Stephens Range east of Thompson's Peak, and through another pass of the Washburn Range, at the head of a fork of Cascade Creek some miles west of Dunraven Peak. These passes, though elevated, are both practicable; but the numerous deep yawning cañons on the head fountains of Tower Creek, and continuous miles of dense fallen timber there and upon the west fork of Cascade Creek below the mountain lake will doubtless delay the opening of a 'trail upon this route until other trails more pressingly necessary shall have been com- pleted; but the saving in distance, the romantic scenery, and the unex- plored fossil forests on the head of Tower Creek will eventually render its construction justifiable. GRAND CAÑON OF THE YELLOWSTONE. There are several interesting cañons upon the Yellowstone, both within and without the National Park, but that uniformly called the Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone extends from its Great Falls to those of Tower Creek, a distance of something more than twenty miles. It had. been entered and explored by several parties at both ends, but, before this season, nowhere else, except by myself near the spur of Mount. Washburn, as mentioned in my report of 1878. Deep snows and high waters rendered this season unfavorable for the exploration, but by long, arduous, and dangerous cliff-climbing I succeeded in exploring the most of the cañon from within, and the remainder by following its western brink. Leaving to future scientists the tracing of the geological periods and formation of this interesting region, I may in a general way state that, like the Niagara and other great cataracts, the cataracts of the Yel- lowstone have eroded a deep channel up-stream), far above their original location at the severed spur of Mount Washburn and the rim of the then and elevated Yellowstone Lake, at which time the fall of one, or that large of a succession of these cataracts, was far greater than at present. It is neither certain nor practically material whether this cañon follows an ancient earthquake rift or is wholly one of erosion, as it evidently cuts through various formations to one of hot springs, often soft, shelly, and so easily eroded as, in connection with the remaining countless. active ones, to occasionally undermine portions of the towering cañon walls, and thus precipitate enormous slides, especially of the western wall. These slides and the short but deep and narrow cañons entering them, compelled me to make a portion of the trail upon the slopes of Mount Washburn. There are many of these slides, of all dimensions up to at least a mile in length along the cañon, and half that distance from its brink; and the entire depth at each locality ranges from one to two thousand feet, thus damming the river until removed or cut asunder by its all-eroding power. Remnants of these, remaining as timbered terraces within the cañon, afforded the main routes of descent to the rapid, roaring river, which from above appeared like a thread of sil-. ver. Some of the side streams, notably one some three miles below the: YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 11 Great Falls, pour over the eastern wall where it is about 1,300 feet high. It is not, however, like the Fairy or other falls, a clear leap; nor is it like a cascade dashing from projecting rocks, but a gliding fall down a flume- like groove, self-worn in the nearly vertical wall, and which, though a good-sized rivulet at the brink, in autumn is nearly if not quite lost in spray before reaching the river.' Some of these streams descend by beautiful cascades or in dark narrow cañons, and others, as the Twin Falls, by 'cañons to the remnants of old slides, and thence, by a clear, beautiful leap of some two hundred feet, reach the river nearly opposite; while there is a similar fall from the eastern terrace less than a mile be- low. Between these, after making a descent of 1,300 vertical feet, past the noisy Safety Valve and countless other geysers and brimstone basins within two miles, the Twin Falls trail reaches the river amidst rocky walls whose cornice-like formation possesses a variety and brilliancy of tint and coloring, matchless and enchanting, which it is impossible to describe, and which to be understood and appreciated must be seen. Indeed, in many portions of the cañons the coloring of the walls is the principal charm. The Grand Cañon of the Colorado is longer and deeper than this; the Yosemite more accessible, and to some, perhaps, more attractive, while other cañons are more ragged, weird, and yawning; but no known cañon so combines magnitude, meanderings; foamy, em- erald waters; hissing hot springs, spouting geysers and inimitably beautiful tinting of its walls as the peerless Cañon of the Yellowstone. YELLOWSTONE LAKE. This doubtless mere fragment of an ancient inland sea, or great lake, of perhaps hot or tepid water, surrounded and dotted by active volcanoes, has been so long and yet so imperfectly known, and in trapper legends has been presented in so many different localities, shapes, dimensions, elevations, &c., that it appropriately merits its designation of "Mystic Lake." It has, however, been found to be one of the largest, most ele- vated, and peculiarly formed of all the mountain lakes of North America, and yet is comparatively so little known as to offer a most inviting field for romantic and interesting exploration. The earliest published reports of this lake are those of Doane, Lang. ford, Everts, and others of the Washburn expedition, who visited it in the fall of 1870. The first white men, however, known to navigate its blue waters were Messrs. James Stevenson, W. H. Holmes, and others of the Hayden expedition of 1871; their craft was the Anna, a small but well-constructed canvas boat. With the Explorer, made of green, whipsawed lumber, and which soon proved unseaworthy, my own navi- gation of this lake was made with two companions, Capt. Jack Davis and Mr. W. H. Parker. Suffice it to say, that after a voyage of ten or twelve days, and after encountering many mishaps and dangers, being orce beached and fairly frozen in, we succeeded in circumnavigating the main lake and most of its bays and fingers; and with the first craft nav. igated by white men I ascended Pelican Creek, the Upper Yellowstone, and other streams to their rapids. While this exploration developed nothing to cause an essential change in my views of the general contour of the lake, as given in my last year's map, it furnished strong evidence to sustain my previous opinion that the length of the lake from the upper river inlet to the outlet is nearer thirty than twenty miles, and but little less across the palm and thumb, and also established Stevenson's soundings (published in Hayden's map of 1871) as approximately correct, since I seldom found soundings any distance off shore with a 255-foot line. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. Interesting information of a varied character and data of much value were obtained relative to contours of bays, coves, and islands; sizes, number, and nature of tributaries; climate, prevailing winds and storms, &c.; while uniquely interesting evidences were encountered of erosion upon its wave-lashed shores, some of which will be given on an accompany. ing map, and others particularized in their proper connection in this report. Although the Upper Yellowstone is navigable for three miles for small sail and steam boats, and without doubt is a fair-sized mountain river ; and although the enormous quantities of huge pine, spruce, and fir tim- ber piled for miles along its banks and the lake shore below its mouth, indicate that it is a boisterous and foaming stream during spring and summer floods, still its inlet as compared with the outlet is too insignifi- cant to satisfy me that the combined tributaries of the lake more than equal its discharge; the immense quantities of water lost by evapora- tion remain, therefore, to be accounted for. True there is probably much less evaporation from water at its temperature and great height than is usual from a less elevated water surface of equal extent; and it is also true that the two or three feet of autumu drainage from the high spring or summer surface of the lake inust be considered ; in addition great subterranean feeders or countless large springs beneath its surface remain to balance this evaporation. That so large a body of water, with a vertical elevation one and a half miles higher than many of the principal cities of the East, and half a mile higher than the highest mountain peaks of that region; itself begirt with snowy mountains thousands of feet higher; its shore-lines dotted, and doubtless its depths modified by de- posits of scorching sulphur, seething geysers, and boiling hot springs- that this body of water should possess many rare and interesting feat- ures is not unreasonable. Among these is one now admitted, .viz, that while there is usually, in summer, a calm during the latter part of the night, and a slight breeze up the lake in the early morning hours, by eight or nine o'clock a. m. the breeze is down the lake; it is first upon the mountain and island crests, high above the lake; then, suddenly striking the water, it uniformly soon becomes a strong, continuous wind, anđ not infrequently a tearing gale. But any time in the warm season (and nothing is known of it in any other) this lake is subject to sud- den changes of atmospheric temperature and direction and force of the wind. This is the case when passing not only into range of each separate finger and the thumb, but also into the draft of the palm or main lake, where in autumn, within half an hour, I have experienced the change from a stiff regular breeze from one quarter to sudden, shifting puffs from nearly every direction, which soon culminated in a terrific gale with wind diagonally downwards, so luffing the sail and chopping the waves as to threaten my craft with instantaneous swamping. On this account, and because of narrow deep seas, rocky shores, and sparse anchorage, this lake, while one of the most beautiful and interesting, is one of the most dangerous for sailing craft. I am confident, however, that with even a small steamer, well built and managed, there would be little danger attending regular trips around the fingers, thumb, and palm of the lake, and for at least seven miles down the river to the Nez Percé Ford at the Mud Volcanoes. Indeed it is probable that ultimately this lake and its river will be navigated much farther, and near to the Great Falls. This point is distant some thirty or forty miles by the mean- derings of the river, which, bordered by enchanting landscapes, is one of the loveliest of streams. With a suitable steamer making regular ex- cursions of, say, three hundred miles, it is safe to predict that a hotel on . : "! . 2) - ..* -- . . C. :in RI IRI 11 Ida ME LUX www VILN. .. . . . . . 1.3 Hey 2 III TYY LINJA . X2 YUV BY KO V : 2 . ALA SONY SUNDA 11 AXIME ATACY NANTES VIINE Circ Synon R ! i www TEO OZ. 541 VA TOMAT VY . 1 . . ht . NIE . OS 0 . TV . IN utan - ... ! . . . ME I . -RW - . - . - . SV I - 1 . . - - - - - - T M . PAVA - Si Kit wit - - - -- NAD .. UDAH UNAN ISTO IS PARK VA ' . --- mwili: ---... 2 . - 12. . 13 2 . . - ZN ... . - tul T: VIEW . . . - LAS 2 ' ' . L.EE RULA 07 - SITE : . . - -- - - - - --- 25X + - ---- - - - - - - - - - - OS CA KN QUID . SA 1 S. -..-. - - - - - --- 5 9 12 RAYAN MAW . .... ' AN! *-* . .-- . -. ..- A - - * * * - - P . - - - - S nor . - TT 11F T . - - - - - . .. .- AL A .- C.. Trail Creek Cove: .: «. Mouth of the Upper Yellowstoire Rever. b. Locality of Bridger Lake. Southeastern extremity of Yellowstone Lake. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 13 some one of the many charming terraces near the foot of the lake would ultimately prove a profitable investment in this region of wonders. IOADS, BRIDGES, AND TRAILS. The time and funds spent in constructing the road over the Madison Terrace, on the route of entrance from Henry's Lake, and the numerous repairs to bridges, culverts, and grades, many in number and great in size, which were rendered necessary by the deepest winter snows, high- est spring floods, and the latest-opening summer ever known in these mountain regions, compelled me to abandon for this season my cherished desire to construct a very important line of road from the Upper Fire Hole Basin via Shoshone Lake, thence down the Yellowstone to its foot and falls, via Mary's Lake, down the East Fork of the Fire Hole River to its forks. But the entire trail of last year was somewhat, and por- tions of it greatly, in proved and prepared for a road. As just stated, great improvement was made in the road up Fire Hole River, while a road valuable to tourists was opened across a bend of the river by way of the terrace of the great midway spring, which developed many mineral springs and geysers of great interest and beauty, and hitherto unknown. After abandoning the Madison Cañon road I opened a direct and ex- cellent route from near the Forks of the Fire Hole through a corner of the earthquake-shaken region into the old road along the Gibbon, bridged the Norris Fork and other branches, and constructed long and expen- sive causeways, turnpikes, and grades there and along Obsidian Creek and Cañon, as well as along the cañon of the Gibbon. The expensive grades and bridges along the mountain side below the Mammoth Hot Springs required little repair, but the grades up the Terrace Mountain considerable. The road to the Forks of Gardiner River has been extended across both its branches, and up the eastern branch nearly half-way through its terrible cañon, necessitating a grade of over 1,000 feet within two miles. The trail and bridge at Tower Falls have been somewhat im- proved, but require much additional attention. Little was done on the old trail over Mount Washburn, since, in my opinion, it will soon be practically superseded for general travel by the new one between it and the Grand Cañon. Routes are explored, and trails will be needed next season, to the newly-developed Hoodoo regions, as well as from Shoshone Lake, via Lewis and Heart Lakes, and Red, Sheridan, and Flat Mountains, to the Yellowstone Lake. TRAIL AND PROPOSED ROAD ALONG THE CAÑON OF THE MIDDLE · GARDINER RIVER. As fully demonstrated, with a moderate outlay on a long steep grade on this trail an excellent road will be afforded, and as between it and the present road over Terrace Mountain a choice of routes may be had. An easy day's ride will then enable the tourist to obtain a view of the Mammoth Hot Springs, both from below and above; of the eroded val. leys of all the Gardiner Rivers; of the falls of the Middle Gardiner, nearly two hundred feet high; and of its cañon, twelve or fifteen hun- dred feet deep, with its basaltic columns, spires, and steeples towering amid scenery second only in wild, majestic beauty to that of the Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone. He will then also be easily able to visit the 14. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. Rustic Falls of the West Gardiner, with its yawning cañon water-way below and the decaying wickeups and game drive-ways of the Sheep- eaters above it, and their ancient but not remote haunts at the cliffs ; also, by easy ascent from the summit of Bunsen's Peak and the Terrace Mountain, to enjoy the enchanting view of the adjacent smiling valleys and snowy mountains, and the sharp peaks of the Tetons, dim amid the clouds, fully a hundred miles away. GUIDE-BOARDS AND MILE-POSTS. As stated in my report of last year, I made use of fragments of lumber which had been hauled nearly one hundred miles to our headquarters, for making a large number of sign-boards, which were well painted, and lettered with the names of prominent geysers, salses, paint-pots, and other hot springs, and falls, cañons, roads, and other natural and arti- ficial points of interest. These, after difficult conveyance, often over long distances, were firmly affixed to posts, rocks, and trees, and proved, as was anticipated, of great value to all persons visiting the Park; but the result of this experiment has neither justified the expectation that they would remain where affixed, nor proved their usefulness, nor the propriety, under present circumstances, of an increase in their number. It is found that posts placed near enough to prominent geysers to prop. erly designate them, unless unusually well set, are liable to be washed away; also, that the lettering upon the boards in such localities, as well as near important salses and other hot springs, is, from chemical action or the direct effect of hot water and steam, liable to be rapidly obliterated. Ordinary iron would probably oxidize or corrode, and stone crumble; and it is therefore important to ascertain some mode of making and affixing guide posts or boards that will render them of permanent serv- ice. Some of the sign-boards I erected were destroyed by forest fires, and others crushed by falling timbers or swept away by floods; but the greatest havoc among them has not been wrought by time nor by the elements, but, on account of their usefulness, by wantonness and van- dalism. While the leading men of intelligence of all classes and stations in life in these regions, as elsewhere, have mainly been the warm and reliable friends of the National Park, of all efforts for improvements therein, and of the persons most active in making them, there have ever been among the many honest and reliable guides and mountain-ramblers within and adjacent to the Park a few of a widely opposite disposition. The latter usually divide their time between acting as guides and pil- laging, plundering game, valuable natural specimens, and often the outfit of those employing them, their ill-gotten gains being squandered in the vilest haunts of the neighboring towns, while they there lie in wait to entrap fresh tourists. These men, usually having neither ability, principle, nor habits suited to honorable employment, prefer to continue on in the lawless manner mentioned. Hence, like the ignorant, selfish, short-sighted, and often short-lived opponents of improvement else- where, they have constantly proved the greatest enemies of the Park and its visitors. They have been active, unscrupulous opponents of its exploration, and blatant slanderers, personally, and in the press when available, of those earnestly and honestly engaged in the improvement of this region. It is this small but despicable class of prowlers who, in addition to kindling devastating fires, slaughtering game, despoiling geyser-cones and other interesting formations, have, by extortionate de- YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. · 15 mands, robbed tourists, and who, to prevent the latter from following plain roads or trails, and from ascertaining routes and names of objects visited, have destroyed the boards designating the same. Hence I feel that the voice of all the better class of guides and mountaineer resi. . dents of the adjacent regions, as well as that of intelligent visitors from, our own and other lands to this peerless region of wonders, will sustain me in urging the speedy enactment of laws to properly protect the Park, its contents, officers, and visitors, and the enforcement of the same by a body of determined police. OBJECTS OF SCIENTIFIC INTEREST. Well aware of their interest to the thinking portion of our people and their value to scientists everywhere, I secured many unique and valu- able specimens of chalcedony, onyx, opal, and jasper, as well as vari- ous forms of silicified or crystallized ancient timber also petrified fish- eggs (so called), obsidian of various kinds and colors, &c., which, well boxed, are on the way to Washington via Bozeman and the southern or railroad route. Most of these were secured with great difficulty, often attended with danger, especially while exploring on rocky crags, in scorching sulphur basins, or on snowy mountain sides. None of the specimens mentioned in my last year's report, as sent in a small boat down the Yellowstone, and reported lost by wrecking at Buffalo Rap- ids, have been recovered, which is a serious loss to science. Besides the deposits of obsidian, or volcanic glass, at the cliffs of Beaver Lake, which are unrivaled in quantity, beauty, and variety of color, there are large deposits of black and mottled obsidian at the Cas- cade or Crystal Falls, near the Falls of the Yellowstone, on the Conti. nental Divide near Shoshone Lake, at the Lookout Cliffs, upon the new road over the Madison Plateau, and in other localities, while immense quantities of scattered fragments are found in the valleys, and minute particles sparkle like diamonds along the beautiful shore-lines of the Yellowstone, Shoshone, and other lakes... Eroded fragments of fossil wood abound along the streams and lakes of the Park, while in many of these are beautifully-rounded fragments of geyser-cones and various kinds of hot-spring formations, and beauti- ful concretions from ancient or recent salses and paint-pools. The conės, branches, and even trunks of trees, are often found semi-petrified in the hot waters of the geysers, salses, and other hot springs and their outlets. Indeed there are but few of these springs whose waters will not, within a few months, so change any woody fiber, even the peculiarly light pine and cedar, as to cause it to sink. These fossilized woods retain their forms, but are clearly distinct in degree and character from the ancient fossil forests high up amid the basaltic terraces. Along the mountain sides east of Yellowstone Lake are ancient ter- races, shore-lines, and other indisputable and indelible evidences that at no remote geological period the surface of this lake was at least five or six hundred feet higher than at the present time; and that, like Shoshone and other lakes, which are being drained into opposite oceans, it is only a fragment of an ancient elevated inland sea or lake, bordered and dotted by active volcanoes, which have vomited into its perhaps tepid waters streams of lava, which have cooled into basalt, breccia, and other forms of more or less horizontally stratified rocks, beds, or deposits. With the intervening periods of time, and changes in the lake's surface, much of these deposits has crumbled or been broken or eroded away, and redis 16 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. tributed in less elevated deposits, which the Alpine climate and lashing waves of the lake are now rapidly undermining, as evinced by the count- less specimens of the hardest and heaviest portions of the mingled débris of all the preceding formations and erosions which strew the beach. A notable locality for these uniquely interesting specimens is upon the northeastern shore of the lake between the mouth of Pelican Creek and Steamboat Point, where the shore, the valley of Pelican Creek, and the plateau between, are still dotted with the dwindling geyser and other hot spring remnants of ancient subterranean fires. At Steamboat as well as at Storm Point the deposits or other effects of continuous hot springs have better withstood the action of the waves than the six or eight miles of intervening shore, which, somewhat less elevated and with fewer hot springs, has been shaped by erosion into the beautiful Saint Mary's Bay, an extension of which, reaching nearly to Indian Pond, I named Concretion Cove At Steamboat Point the contest, for ages, of hissing hot springs and lashing cold surf to adjust their respective boundaries, has left interest- ing monuments of the diverse powers and operations of each combatant, and also furnished a rare field for obtaining a peculiar class of speci- mens, including much sulphur. Storm Point offers specimens somewhat similar, but less sulphur and also more beautifully banded and colored indurated clays, shales, and other formations, notable alike for the beauty of their variegated stripes and their tendency to crumble. Here I obtained a number of specimens, the brightness and variety of coloring of which are seldom found in nature or equaled by art. But it is along the surf-lashed shore of Concretion Cove that are profusely strewn the most peculiarly interesting specimens of their class that I have found in this region of wonders, and which rival any natural curiosities I have met with from other parts of the United States or from foreign lands. Pelican Creek, in its twelve or fifteen miles of meanderings from the mountains to its moirth, some three miles south of the foot of the Yel- lowstone Lake, divides a beautifully undulating plateau of alternating grassy plains and parks, where lovely groves of branched pines are flanked upon the north by elevated sulphur hills with forest-clac base, sulphur-scorched sides, bald, snow-white, and terraced crests (a noted landmark across the Yellowstone Lake), and on the south by the Turbid Creek spur of Mount Chittenden. This plateau is evidently a compara- tively recent formation of the crushed, eroded, mingled, and redistributed débris of all the preceding formations of this mystic lake. It is usually found heavily banded or stratified with pudding-stone, conglomerate, or breccia. Other specimens exhibit thin, wavy lamina, all greatly dis- tirbed, and often curiously banded and colored in circular formations, while firmly cemented by silica or deposits from the seething funnels of countless deep-seated subterranean hot springs, which continue to dwindle in number and power. Hence the immense quantities and vari- ' eties of interesting specimens of concretion and erosion plainly visible in nature's tracings along the steep cliffs, and the innumerable specimens strewn along the rocky strand of the ever lashing and eroding waters at their base. Abruptly changing in character with the cliffs whence they were eroded, here are found, now variously-colored cobble-stones, with mingled and adhering fragments of the cement of the pudding-stones; now the eroded fragments of various forms of fossil wood, quartz, and crystals; and now a shingle beach of hard, fine-grained, oval-edged, gray, and probably concretionary clay formations, from one-half to an inch in thick- YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. . 17 ness, six to eighteen inches long, and of various widths. In form these concretions vary from a shoe-sole to a pot-lid, from a rolling-pin to a pestle; in fact, ladles and platters of every description and size are among these formations. Perhaps, however, the most unique and rare patterns are the cups, pitchers, and lather-boxes, the last-mentioned being notably uniform in color, size, banding, and form, and many of which so closely resemble lathe-work as on first sight to deceive. Although uniformly concave on one side and originally convex on the other, many of them, by splitting along some of their well-defined lines of stratification, show a perfectly flat bottom, thus presenting a miniature lather box or cup, suitable for use or ornament. I have at various times deposited exam- ples of these in the National Museum at Washington, and in other museums and cabinets of natural curiosities. There are several of these remarkable beaches in the immense shore. line of the main lake and its thumb and fingers, but the most extensive. and interesting yet explored is at the head of Concretion Cove, on both sides of the outlet of Indian Pond, the shoe-sole and pot-lid forms being found in front and below, and the lather.boxes, ladles, and skimmers about half a mile above it. The first varieties are countless; the latter extremely rare. I have heretofore, in both official and unofficial publi- cations, referred to these curiosities, at one time advancing a query as to their origin and formation, but which query I am not aware has as yet been satisfactorily answered. I now only state the facts, in the hope of inducing scientific investigation. During the past season I made and traveled a fine trail from the open valley of Pelican Creek, first between long sloping hills, then through grove-dotted elevations, to Indian Pond, skirting its southern shore, amid the decaying brush, corrals, wickeups, and lodge-poles, to my camp on the bluffs; thence across the outlet to Indian Pond, about midway its half mile of length, and on by a fine trail route through mingled parks and groves to the first bluff on the south bank of Pelican Creek, and from there to Yellowstone Lake, about half a mile above its outlet. From the open valley of the Pelican to my camp, some three miles, is a fine natural carriage-way, while the trail, a like distance to the head of the bluffs of the Pelican, is an excellent one; but the remainder of the route, owing to steep bluffs, a miry stream, and a valley of dense and fallen timber, appears a much greater distance than it really is. A bridge and other improvements are necessary to render the lower portion of the road good, and at some seasons of the year even passable. The usual route still is to cross the Yellowstone at Nez Percé Ford, seven miles down the Yellowstone River from its head; thence, following its eastern bank as closely as the cañons and fallen timbers will permit, to strike the Pelican above its first bluffs; from here to ascend the northern bank to its forks, and thence the North Fork for the trail to Amethyst Mountain and Soda Butte, the Middle to the East Fork of the Yellowstone, and the Southern to the various rough timber-obstructed passes to the Pas- samaria or Stinking Water. My favorite camp on the Yellowstone Lake (and it has evidently been a favorite one for the Indian) has ever been upon the grove-dotted bluff, elevated thirty or forty feet above the lake, directly fronting Indian Pond, where I left my boat while exploring Pelican Valley and Stinking Water Passes. This cove, so landlocked as to be safe except during southern gales, and the bluffs at its head will doubtless remain a chosen haunt for the scientist and tourist long after the now abundant evidence of its frequent occupancy by the Sheep- eater aborigines shall have vanished; the rude stone-heaps of their 2 Y P ORUL 1 LU 18 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. wickeup sweat-houses being their most enduring monument, unless, in- deed, at this most choice location in the Park an Indian cemetery may yet be found. GEYSERS AND OTHER SPRINGS. There are found within the Park a variety of both cold and hot water springs. Treating these springs in inverse ratio to the popular interest in the varieties, they are : the cold pure-water springs; the cold medicinal springs; the warm mineral, often poisonous, springs ; the warm medici- nal springs; the foaming or laundry springs; the terrace-building: springs, and the pulsating and the spouting geysers. COLD PURE-WATER SPRINGS, Cold pure-water springs are countless, excellent, and usually perma- nent, similar to those of other elevated mountains, and often large enough to supply a fine rivulet, such as the Big Spring Creek, near the Great Falls of the Yellowstone. COLD MEDICINAL SPRINGS. These are not numerous, the most important being those of the Soda Butte, Cache, and Miller branches of the East Fork of the Yellowstone, in the northeastern portion of the Park. The interesting ruins near these springs indicate that they were once hot, cone, or terrace-building, as, indeed, some of them still remain upon Caché Creek. The Soda Bútte Springs are traditionally valuable for the cure of saddle-galled horses, and probably but little less beneficial than the Arkansas springs in treating rheumatism and some other diseases. In fact, I deem a lease- hold of these springs, in a lovely sheltered valley, with matchless trout- fishing, amid the Fossil Forests and enchanting mountain scenery, as one of the most valuable of those within the Park. WARM MINERAL SPRINGS. Warm mineral or poisonous springs are found at a noxious sulphur basin at the head of Green Creek, and other localities near Beaver Lake; they are also numerous along Norris Fork, the main Gibbon River, Peli- can Creek, Turbid Lake, and Brimstone Basin, and also in the Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone, and elsewhere. The gases arising from these springs, as well as their waters, are usually injurious to health, and many of them are really poisonous, some of which I have so designated upon guide-boards along our roads, as a warning to tourists. WARM MEDICINAL SPRINGS. These springs seem to differ little from the cold ones, with which they are frequently intermingled, but their heat and vapors render them more convenient and valuable for bathing purposes. Examples of these springs are found at Cache Creek, the various Fire Hole Basins, and to a limited degree even among those of the Mammoth Hot Springs. HOT FOAMING OR LAUNDRY SPRINGS. These are found in the cañon of the Gibbon as well as that of the Yel. lowstone, in all of the Fire Hole Basins, and notably in the Geyser Mead- ows, west of the Forks of the Fire Hole Rivers. Although really hot YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 19 springs, the temperature of the water is far less than the casual obser- ver would suppose, because much of the furious ebullition is caused by escaping gases. A careful analysis of these waters will alone demon- strate their properties, but many of them surpass any other water, either naturally or artificially prepared, for cleansing the skin, as well as blankets or clothing of any fabric. TERRACE-BUILDING SPRINGS. The description of the Mammoth Hot Springs as a typical represent- ative of this class, in my report of 1879, is so full and complete as to require but little additional attention from those who have perused it. For those who have not I will briefly state that tortuous escape vents of deep-seated internal fire, in passing through the underlying cretaceous limestone, become charged with dissolving portions of the wall rock, and upon reaching the surface the water is discharged in pulsating throbs, each of which deposits a thin corrugated lamina of the calcareous substance held in solution. This apparently slow but ceaseless process has resulted in building up beautiful scallop-bordered bathing-pools along the thousands of feet of terraced slopes adown the mountain side. Traces of iron and other minerals, held in solution, tint these formations with their own peculiar coloring, in vertical banding, presenting a view at once grand, unique, and inimitably beautiful. These Mammoth Hot Springs, although far the most important of the kind now active in the Park or perhaps the world, are insignificant to what they were when building the Terrace Mountain, or what other springs were at perhaps the same period when they built the enormous cliffs along the Yellowstone, at Bear Gulch, at Sheepeater Cliff, upon the Cache, Tower, Pelican, and many other locali- ties where these enormous deposits, destitute of active springs are now crumbling to ruins and eroding away. T PULSATING GEYSERS. While these springs are frequently intermingled with those of the bathing-pools, and possess many features in common, they are in other respects very dissimilar. The bathing-pools or terrace-building springs are usually large pools of various forms upon a mountain slope, down which their escaping waters build the above-described bathing-pools and terraces'; while the pulsating geysers are uniformly along a continuous fissure, building a steep ridge directly over it of nearly uniform hori- zontal'elevation, sloping alike each side, or else a circular cone, which in height frequently exceeds the diameter or even the circumference at the base. The long or ridge form appears to have been more common formerly than at this time; indeed, the prevailing circular or cone forma- tions over small escape vents from the internal forces is one of the many indications of their waning power. Peculiarly interesting views of these ridges are found in most of the Fire Hole Basins, where, as well as in the cañons of the Norris Fork and main Gibbon, and the elevated Monument Geyser basin, and other localities, the cones of both active and extinct pulsating geysers are frequently found commingled. Among the largest and most interesting of both the cone and the ridge varieties are those amid the terraces at the Mammoth Hot Springs. The Devil's Grotto is only one of countless huge cavities in the ridges which are from ten to fifty or more feet high above the encasing terrace formations, and from one-eighth to one-fourth of a mile long. Many of them are extinct and crumbling to ruins, but others, as that through -20 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. n the end of which we cut our road upon the main terrace, are still active. Some of the circular cones are also active, but a large one upon the upper terrace, which was surmounted by several miniature cones, some of which Professor Hayden (I learn) removed to the Smithsonian in 1872, as I did one other in 1875, is now in the dying throes of extinction, Two large and interesting cones of extinct geysers are found near where our road from the Fire Holes descends the terraces at the Mam- moth Hot Springs, as shown in the frontispiece of this report. As there shown, the Devil's Thumb is mainly concealed by the terrace above the road and the Liberty Cap below it, near a group of ever-changing terrace- building springs, which are fully two hundred feet below the main Mam- moth Hot Springs upon the terrace next above. LIBERTY CAP. To visitors to the Park or attentive observers of the published descrip- tions and sketches of its wonders, the famous monument called Liberty Cap requires no further description, but for the information of others it may be said that it is an extinct, pulsating geyser-cone, some fifty feet in circumference, which rises forty-five feet vertically above the present sur- face of the hot-spring formations, which hide an unknown but perhaps equally great, if not greater, portion of its base. Not only is this encasing support shelly and cavernous, but, like the much harder and more durable circular laminæ of the cone itself, it is crumbling away, and, as may be ! seen in a correct sketch of it, is greatly eroded near the base by time and the elements and is so deeply seamed and fractured as to continually threaten the dislodgment of masses sufficient to change its center of gravity and precipitate the fall and irreparable destruction of one of the most unique and interesting specimens of nature's handiwork as yet, anywhere discovered. The settling of the encasing terrace deposits. sufficiently to dislodge the timber which I inserted in 1878 to support the cone, proves that it lacks the firmness to properly sustain stone or iron supports, and it therefore becomes a question of scientific as well as prac- tical interest whether a sufficient quantity of water from the much more elevated Mammoth Hot Springs cannot be cheaply conveyed into the ancient supply-pipe of the cone, if, as seems probable, it is still open, or, if not, alongside of it, in order to throw an ornamental column of water to any desired height. As my observations accord with Bunsen's theory, that these waters do not materially deposit within channels, conductors, or pipes, but only by evaporation at their termination, or edge, it is be- lieved that the terrace-building properties of the water would soon en- case this interesting cone with the inimitably beautiful-bordered pools of the terrace formation, and also ultimately surround it with an effect- ive and permanent support. So strong is my conviction of the perfect feasibility of this plan, that nothing but absolute necessity for the use of all available funds for buildings and opening roads and bridle-paths has prevented my expending a moderate sum upon the experiment. . SPOUTING OR INTERMITTENT GEYSERS. Without attempting to decide a mooted question among savants as to the true origin of these prominent wonders of the Park, I venture to state that successive years of careful observation tend toward the theory that, like pulsating geysers, salses, fumeroles, and most of the other kinds of hot springs, they are primarily escape vents for the earth's pent-up internal fires. In these vents the chemical action of escaping gas and YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 21 high-pressure steam produced by contact of this escaping gas-heat with the permeating surface-water, by dissolving the wall rock increases the heat and enlarges the orifice of these small, tortuous, and otherwise cooling fissure vents. Slow, but sure and constant, change attends them all, and many, though probably not all of them, at the proper stage become true inter- mittent spouting geysers. This can occur only when the orifice is so nicely adjusted in height, size, and form to the power of the escaping steam and gas in the self-formed chamber beneath that the pressure of accumulating water for a time nearly or quite prevents its escape except through sympathetic fumeroles or natural safety-valves. But the con- stantly-increasing force from beneath ultimately overpowers the pressure of the water, when, after more or less subterranean rumbling, earth trembling, and sundry kinds of bubbling, gurgling, and spluttering, the aqueous monster seems fairly aroused, and then occurs the grand erup- tion. This is usually through one, but occasionally through several cir- cular or oblong vents, cones, or craters with diverse kinds of throttlings and pulsations in the different geysers, each having its own peculiarities in color and size, and in the shape of the orifices, as also in the height, power, and direction of the column or columns of water and the length of the periods of eruption and of repose; and even these, as above stated, are doubtless slowly changing. While the foregoing theory seemingly accounts for the usual manifes- tations of geyser eruptions, still the rending of huge geyser cones and the hurling of tons of rock, as have occurred at the Giant and New Crater Geysers and elsewhere, seem to indicate an occasional outburst of some greater power. Explosions of superheated steam or of gas; misplace- ment of the safety-valve upon escape vents of internal. fires; infernal regións, or other places of pent-up power are occasionally suggested by phenomena otherwise inexplicable. To the Upper, Lower and Midway Geyser basins upon the Fire Hole Rivers, and others less important upon the shores of the Yellowstone, Heart, and Shoshone Lakes, early discovered by others, my own explor- ations have added the Monument, the Norris, and the Paint Pool basins upon the Gibbon or its branches, the Safety Valve in the Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone, and several others, less important, in other portions of the Park, which is now so well explored that there seems little proba. bility of additional basins of importance being hereafter discovered. Still, as my own explorations have mainly been made in connection with the ever-urgent duties of exploring or opening roads or trail routes, and the scientific explorers of the Park have labored under many and grave disadvantages during brief periods of summer sauntering, amid hostile Indians, doubtless interesting isolated geysers, or perhaps small groups of them, may yet be discovered. In fact so little, comparatively, is yet known of the number, size, and peculiarities of the various gey- sers or other springs of these regions that I deem it one of the most inviting fields for further scientific investigation, and recommend that provisions be made accordingly. FOSSIL FORESTS. As explorations of the fossil forests of the Park have each succeeding year greatly added to our knowledge of their area, magnitude, and wonders, during the past year I explored the hitherto unknown forests on Cañon Creek and other localities of the Yellowstone Range, Mount Washburn, and the basaltic range between the fingers of the Yellowstone 22 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. Lake; also those in the mountains east of it, in the Hoodoo region, and on the Stephens Range, besides many additional localities on the Pelican and Warm Springs Creeks, as well as other well-known forests. It is now evident that the basins of the East Fork of the Yellow- stone, Pelican, Tower, and Black Tail Creeks constitute a region of fossil forests where an excavation or erosion at an elevation of from 7,000 to 10,000 feet would most likely unearth the fossilized branches, trunks, and roots of the giant trees of some primeval forest. Whether the succes- sive deposits now encasing these forests in some portions of the Park to a vertical depth of at least 4,000 feet are subaqueous or subaërial, or, as is probable, partly both, it is evident that great and long.continued oscil- lation of the surface and periods of submergence and elevation have occurred, as the roots of the fossil trees of these forests, little inferior in size to the big trees” of California, often penetrate nearly, if not quite, through the horizontal stratum or layer of earth and rock upon which they grew, into the broken, shattered, and eroded trunks of the fossil trees beneath them. It is also evident, from the uniform character of the successive forests in vertical layers that the agents or influences for fossil- ization were for an immense period of time uniform and abundant, while those for crystallizing, though long continued, were at no period so abundant or uniformly distributed. In fact, it is not usually the largest trees, or forests of them, which are other than simply fossilized in the original forms of the timber, but, rather, limited areas of usually smaller and more scattering timber, originally concealed in the peculiar cement which fills every crack and cavity, not only of the wood but also of the encasing rocks and their interstices, with the most beautiful chalce- dony, which, probably, after long-continued processes of cooling, has pro- duced the famous caskets of brilliant amethysts and other crystals here found, and which, while elsewhere unequaled in nature, are considered inimitable by art. NATURAL BRIDGE. Although at various points in the Park, as on the plains, there are temporary bridges of shale or of indurated clays, formed by the under- mining action of small, transient water-courses; and although in many of the basaltic cliffs and peaks within and adjacent to the Park (notably in the newly-explored Foodoo region of the East Fork of the Yellow- stone) there are natural fissures and rough-galleried passages through the crumbling peaks and turrets of the breccia or conglomerate forma- tions, and also amid the immense débris of the fractured cliffs of the Mammoth Hot Springs; and while there are wind and storm worn tun. nels through the sharp cliffs of crumbling sandstone, there is, as yet known, within the Park, but one substantial natural bridge of stone over a permanent stream. Upon the map accompanying this report Bridge Bay is shown for the first time. It has two small tributaries entering near its head some six miles up the west shore from the foot of Yellowstone Lake. At the entrance of the northern one is a shallow, marsh-bordered pond, perhaps a mile long and half a mile wide, which discharges but little water, and which is evidently the sand-spit-severed extremity of the bay. The southern one is a small creek, with a deep, narrow valley of alternating grassy glades and beaver-meadows, bordered by burned and fallen timber, and, within a distance of five or six miles, heading, in several branches, in the basaltic hills. This is Bridge Creek, appropri. ately named from a natural bridge over the north branch, about one and a half miles from the bay. From a remark in Dr. Hayden's report for 1871, it would appear that some members of his expedition had visited YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 23 this bridge, but this is all the evidence I have been able to find that any explorer of the Park, excepting myself, had discovered it before the season just passed. I first observed it in 1877, but, an immense mass of tangled and fallen timber intervening, I could not readily reach it, and hence made no attempt at its description. The north or bridge fork of the creek, though evidently a foaming torrent at the annual period of melting snows, in early autumn is a barely continuous rivulet amid the craggy bluffs abore the bridge, where it is much enlarged by drippings from the over- hanging walls of the chasm and the numerous springs of noxious-looking and nauseous-smelling water. What is now the bridge was once the brink of a cataract nearly one hundred feet high, over a ledge of peculiarly hard, durable, variegated trachyte upheaven to the vertical across the stream. Directly across this ledge countless ages of erosion have formed first a shallow, trough-like channel; then, or simultaneously with this channel, a vertical orifice, several feet long by one foot wide, between the strata, some two feet from the brink. There is a similar orifice eight or ten feet further up stream, so large and deep as to undermine the intervening brink of the falls, where the impetuous water and rocky débris, by first cutting a circular channel and ultimately greatly deepen- ing it, have eroded one of the finest archways I have ever seen, which has about ten feet of stone support for a carriage-way above, and about thirty feet of water-way beneath. The chasm is fully spanned by the bridge, which, by measurement, I found to be twenty-nine feet long, and, including the above-mentioned vertical orifice, ten feet high above the top of the arch, and forty-one feet to the bed-rock of the chasm, which, at this point, is a rapidly-deepening cascade. As the two out- side layers of the vertical strata are, on an average, considerably higher than the roadway between them, they form a rude but permanent rail- ing. The vertical orifice, as well as the ancient channel, can readily be filled or floored with timbers. Moreover, this natural bridge is on a route which avoids the sand-spits, ponds, and gullies near the bay; and I cannot, therefore, doubt that as soon as funds are available for the necessary repairs to the bridge, and for the removal of the vast quantity of fallen timber upon the road, this route will be the one most traveled, and this natural bridge one day be crossed by thousands of eager pil- grims to this wonder-land. The well-worn game-trails over the bridge are evidence of its long and constant use as a crossing for elk, deer, and antelope; while from the actions of a huge grizzly, which I shot while rearing from his lair in a fallen tree-top, upon the western abutment, it is, I judge, used by bears as an ambuscade. . GOLD AND SILVER MINES. While the volcanic and ancient hot-springs formation, or lake deposit, So characterizes the surface of the Park as to render improbable the ex- istence of valuable mines in nearly if not quite all the Wyoming portion thereof, the mining operations of the past year have developed the pres- ence of promising mines of gold, copper, silver, and lead in Bear Gulch, Crevice, Hellroaring, Soda Butte, and Clark's Forks regions, either within or adjacent to the Montana portion of the Park. Anticipating this, and believing, as has now been proved, that the three-mile strip of the Park in Montana was embraced in a treaty with the Crow Indians years in advance of the dedication of the National Park, I have not only abstained from any attempt to control it, but have openly pressed its recession, since it possesses no objects of interest, and hence, though it may be of value to others, it is utterly valueless to the Park. The ratification of 24 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK.. the Crow treaty for the cession to the government of all these mining regions unquestionably places this strip within the Park, and as its re- cession is pressingly necessary, it is hoped it will be made without delay. The existence of granite and limestone nuclei in some lava-capped mountains along other boundaries of the Park renders possible the future discovery of valuable mines, but, if so, they can be re-ceded without cut- ting off any objects of interest, the retention of which may be desired. SULPHUR, ALUM, AND OTHER VALUABLE DEPOSITS. Unlike those mentioned under the last caption, the deposits of sul- phur, alum, and other minerals, found in great quantities and possessing considerable scientific interest and commercial worth, are always found associated with hot springs or other wonders, and are inseparable from the Park. Of these, sulphur is perhaps the most widely distributed, as well as the most valuable. The Terrace Mountain, at the Mammoth Hot Springs; Sulphur Mount- ain, near the Great Falls; Sulphur Hills, near the Pelican; the elevated, bald, and crumbling hills of the Norris, and, to some extent, other gey- ser basins and countless localities throughout the Park contain vast deposits of sulphur, and most of them alum, copperas, and other mineral substances in greater or less quantity, and together afford a vast field for chemical investigation, if not commercial enterprise. Some of the crystallized sulphur, apparently produced by vaporization, is almost pure enough for immediate use for pharmaceutical purposes. HEADQUARTERS OF THE PARK. MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS. In consideration of its isolation from the world, and of danger at the time from Indians, it is now fully conceded, if it was ever seriously doubted, that the location of the headquarters of the Park at the Mam- moth Hot Springs, and the sites chosen for the buildings and for pas- turage, are admirable for defense, convenience, and beauty; while the buildings, fences, and other necessary improvements, are well planned, constructed, and preserved. Hence, although the relative slower pro- gress of the Northern Pacific to that of the Utah Northern Railroad in approaching their respective natural gateways to the Park may tempo- rarily tend towards changing headquarters to the Forks of the Fire Holes and centering point of roads and places of interest at that end of the Park, still it is questionable, in the event of the ultiinate opening of a railroad route up the Yellowstone, whether the relative superiority of the location for health, beauty, comfort of wintering, and grading pur- poses, as well as for great herding, farming, and mineral developments in the vicinity, may not render their continuation at the present site desir- able and wise. But even should a change be necessary, the present build- ings will be required for a long time, and are adequate as the residence of an assistant. The principal improvement necessary is the introduc- tion into headquarters of hot and cold water, of which there is an ample supply at a proper elevation, and the routes for the carrying-pipes for which have been located, and estimates furnished of the cost of the work. The observations of this season confirm those expressed in my last year's report upon the origin, former enormous terrace-building proper- ties, and their present dwindling remnants, and the propriety of testing the effect of an increased supply of water from the West Gardiner River above the ancient terraces. If Bunsen's theory be true, as now appears YELLOW STONE NATIONAL PARK. 25 probable, that the deposits are only made by evaporation, and that pipes will not seriously coat nor fill internally, then a vast field is opened for the most unique, inimitably grand, beautiful, and permanent ornamenta- tion of headquarters and surroundings of the Park that can be imag- ined by the most visionary dreamer of the beautiful and marvelous. To these features may be added the leasehold value of hotel or other sites for a boundless display of portable ornamental work for sale to tourists or for display or preservation in the leading cabinets and mu- seums of the civilized world. BOUNDARIES OF THE PARK. That the dedication in 1872 of the Yellowstone National Park as a heritage of wonders for the enjoyment of our people was a wise and timely act few will now question. Fortunately its boundaries as origi- nally dedicated were approximately correct; but as the real object was to dedicate in the best possible form a mountain-girt park of unique and matchless marvels, priceless as a health and pleasure resort, and em- bracing as little as possible of value for other purposes, to fully accom- plish this it is necessary to change somewhat the boundaries and restrict rather than extend them. I am still of the opinion, therefore, as ex- pressed in my previous reports, and for the many and evident reasons therein stated, that the northern and western boundaries of the Park should be speedily changed so as to conform to those of Wyoming Ter- ritory. This will necessitate taking off a strip some three miles wide from the borders of Montana and Idaho Territories, which, while valueless to the Park, is valuable for other purposes. I also deem it quite likely that careful exploration will render evident the propriety of severing a like strip from the entire southern border. While these changes will greatly reduce the area of the Park where there is nothing of value to retain, my explorations of the past season of the Sierra-Shoshone Range east of Yellowstone Lake and in the Hoodoo or Goblin regions, lead me to conclude that it is very probable the extreme drainage of the East Fork of the Yellowstone, including at least the Hoodoo regions, is outside of the present boundaries of the Park. This entire region south of Crandall Creek is probably destitute of all rich minerals, while it is one of the wildest, most precipitous, im- passable, and worthless mountain ranges on the continent, valueless except for scientific exploration or as an attachment to the National Park. Hence I deem it practically important that a thorough explora- tion of this region be made before running the eastern boundary of the Park, with a view to learning whether it may not properly be modified or changed, if necessary, to embrace these newly-explored wonders. But if this be done the policy which has been uniformly pursued in re- gard to tolls on roads or bridges within the Park should be extended to that expensive and valuable portion of the road down the Gardiner, which would revert to the control of Montana, and the act of recession should contain a provision that all roads previously made within the Park or public lands of the nation shall remain forever free from toll. CROW INDIAN TREATY. A treaty with the friendly Crow Indians, for the cession of the mining regions within and adjacent to the present northern boundaries of the Park, prevented anticipated annoyance from that quarter during the ( past season, and trouble in this direction will be obviated hereafter by 26 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. the early ratification of the treaty and permanent legal occupation of the mines. These measures will, I trust, be speedily accomplished for these reasons, as well as for other reasons fully stated in my last year's report. SHEEPEATER AND BANNOCK INDIANS. The feeble and harmless Sheepeater Indians were the aboriginal owners and formerly the only permanent occupants of the Park, and being some- what allied to their Shoshone and Bannock neighbors, these latter were occasional ramblers therein. Excepting Washakié's band of Shoshones on Wind River, they are all now united in the agency at Ross Fork of Snake River, in Idaho. Having faithfully adhered to the obligations of their treaty of cession, made in Washington during last winter, as well as to their promises made to me at their agency in the Ruby Valley in the spring, no trouble has arisen with them in the Park during the past season, nor is any looked for in the future; and with the adoption of the measures mentioned above, there need be little fear of Indian depreda- tions hereafter within its confines. REPORT OF THE GAMEKEEPER. It is with pleasure that I refer to the report of the active and efficient gamekeeper of the Park (which will be found in the Appendix, marked A), and indorse his suggestions for the protection of the inter- esting and valuable animals within it. The explorations this season in the Hoodoo and other eastern portions of this region will prove so inviting to tourists that game will soon be as much exposed there as elsewhere in the Park, and unwilling to abandon these animals to speedy extermination, I cordially commend Mr. Yount's suggestion for their pro- tection in all its confines. While the Park remained a ląunt of hostile savages, and was without roads, hotel, or other conveniences of civilization, tourists necessarily went fully armed for self-protection as well as to secure food; but with the disappearance of the necessity for carrying heavy long-range rifles, their use should be discontinued, except by agents or employés of the government, and by them only upon specified conditions. It may re- quire years of judicious management to accomplish this to the satisfac- tion of border-men ever fully armed; but habits speedily change with circumstances, and mountaineers and tourists will, it is believed, soon prefer unmolested enjoyment with the rod and fly, in the splendid op- portunities for trout-fishing, or perhaps with the fowling-piece rather than the heavy, cumbersome, expensive, and often dangerous long-range rifle now in use. It is believed that few of the mountaineers would long resist appeals to their national pride for the preservation and protection of the noble animals that roam through this great National Park. For my constant and urgent appeals for protection for these animals and for methods of accomplishing it, I refer to pages 11, 12, and 13 of my Report of 1877, page 10 of Report of 1878, and pages 21 and 22 of Report of 1879, but in connection with the subject I would add that there are now in the Park abundance of bison, moose, elk, deer, antelope, and big- horn sheep; besides fine summer pasturage, there are winter haunts for these animals, where, with little care or expensé other than protection from wanton slaughter, they would rapidly multiply. Many of them would become domesticated and thus an interesting feature of this great domain of nature would exist, when these animals become, as will ere long be the case, extinct elsewhere on this continent. Some would, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 27 of course be slaughtered, but judiciously, and when both their pelts and flesh were most valuable. HISTORY OF THE PARK. On account of the evidently increasing interest of the public in the great Yellowstone National Park, and believing that a carefully-pre- pared and accurate statement of its location, dedication, and routes of access, as well as reference to its aboriginal inhabitants, prominent ex- plorers, and first buildings may prove of present and permanent inter- est and be of lasting value, a few pages of the report are devoted to this subject. · As partly shown by the accompanying map of the Park, and much more fully by the excellent Land Office map of the United States, the Snake River Fork of the Columbia, and Green River Fork of the Col- orado of the Gulf of California (Pacific waters), and nearly all the other great rivers of that portion of the continent, including the Jefferson, Madison, and Gallatin Forks, and the Yellowstone, Big Horn, and other branches of the Missouri-Mississippi Atlantic waters, to a great extent radiate from hot springs or spouting geysers within or adjacent to the great National Park, situated mainly in Northwestern Wyoming Territory and also embracing portions of Idaho and Montana. There can be no doubt that the modern sulphur basins, salses, hissing fumeroles, and spouting geysers are only dwindled remnants of the ancient volcanoes and vast and long-continued eruptions of lava, which, in the region of the National Park, characterized the elevation of the Great Plains and Rocky Mountain ranges from the oozy bed of a shallow ancient sea. It is also evident that at some subsequent but remote period of time many of these mountain slopes were at an elevation of from 6,000 to 10,000 feet, covered with dense forests of timber, in size fairly rivaling those upon the Pacific coast, and that by some oscillation in the elevation of these regions, by eruptions of hot ashes, mud, and slime, like those which covered Pompeii and Herculaneum, or other all-powerful and long- becurring agencies, forests have been crushed or covered, often wany hundred feet deep, by conglomerate breccias or other volcanic material. Here erosion of the elements, or the blast, or pick and shovel of the tourist, unearth this ancient timber, which is often petrified entire into a perfect tree or log of stone; other timbers, while retaining their form, into opal or chalcedony, with amethyst or other crystallized cavities, matchless in shape, color, and beauty, which, for cabinet specimens, are unequaled elsewhere in nature and unrivaled by art. Many hot springs and mineral streams now petrify timber or coat it with sparkling lime or silica, build geyser-cones, and many beautiful forms of crystallization, but they are all clearly distinct, and mainly much inferior to those of the closing eruptive period. This wonderful region is really less one large park than a group of smaller ones, partially or wholly isolated, upon both sides of the Conti- nental Divide, much lower in the Park than the nearly unbroken sur- rounding mountain ranges. Its average altitude probably exceeds that of Yellowstone Lake, which is some 8,000 feet, or nearly a half mile higher than Mount Washington. Its few yawning, ever difficult, often impassable, cañon-approaches along foaming torrents; the superstitious awe inspired by the hissing springs, sulphur basins, and spouting gey- sers; and the infrequent visits of the surrounding pagan Indians have combined to singularly delay the exploration of this truly mystic land. 28 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. Although Lewis and Clarke, by ascending the Jefferson instead of the Madison or Gallatin Fork of the Missouri in 1805, crossed the Rocky Mountain divide some seventy miles west of the Park without its discov- ery, yet it is from a member of that early band of Northwestern explorers that we derive our first knowledge of its existence. Coulter and Potts, after their discharge in 1806, retraced Captain Clarke's return route, via the Yellowstone River and Bozeman Pass, to the Three Forks of the Mis- souri, They there continued to trap and hunt until Potts was killed and Coulter captured in a Blackfeet Indian ambuscade below the famous Beaverhead landmark upon the Jefferson. Coulter was allowed to run the gauntlet for his life, and, being remarkably fleet of foot, distanced all but one of his pursuers, whom he pinned to the earth with his own war-lance, escaping over six miles of prickly-pear plain to some drift-wood at the head of an island in the Jefferson. Unarmed, naked, and lacer- ated, he, through untold dangers, hardships, and suffering, reached a trading-post on the Lower Yellowstone, rearmed himself, and returning to his Bannock friends, for years hunted, trapped, and, with relentless vengeance, fought the Blackfeet Indians. The haunt of the main Bannock tribe was at Henry's Lake, west of the Park; that of their little Sheepeater band within it; their main buffalo range being upon the Big Horn, east of it, and doubtless with them Coulter visited the Great Falls, Yellowstone Lake, and some of the fire-hole basins and spouting geysers, and after his return to Mis- souri in 1810 gloried in describing them; yet, so little credence was given to his descriptions, that for many years, even long after I was first upon the Lower Yellowstone, 6Coulter's Hell” was a standing camp-fire jest upon now well-known realities; but John Coulter was, without a shade of doubt, the first white explorer of any portion of the Yellowstone National Park. In 1809 the veteran fur-trader, Henry, driven from the Three Forks of the Missouri by the ferocious Blackfeet, constructed and for a time occu- pied a stockade fort upon the outlet of the lake which still bears his name. W. P. Hunt and Ramsey Crooks, in their outward route to the ill- fated Astoria, with a strong party in 1810, and also the feeble remnant of the band during their return in 1812, crossed the Wind River Range south of the Park. The famous American inountaineers, Henry, Ashley, Sublette, and Jackson; the Scottish Campbells and Stewarts; the French Pierre, Port Neuf, and Fontenelle, and other renowned trappers and traders roamed over the regions surrounding the Park until most of them were killed by the Indians, prior to the expedition of Captain Bonneville in 1832. During that year a sanguinary battle was fought between the bloody Blackfeet and the combined bands of these fur-traders and their Bannock friends at their general rendezvous in the famous 6 Pierre's Hole,” near the Three Tetons, and with the mountains of the Park in plain view; and yet, most strangely, in all the published reports of these famous mountaineers we fail to find a hint of the Park or its wonders. . During nearly three years of trapping and trading with the Indians by Captain Bonneville and his detached parties, in all directions from the Park, it is evident that he neither visited it nor learned its true loca- tion; for although his map of these regions is far more accurate than any before and many since, even that shows the largest mountain lake as the head of the Snake River, and hence Pacific waters, instead of the Yellowstone, which really discharges into the Atlantic; Bonneville's representation of this lake is also inaccurate in form, and is without YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 29 name or indications of the great falls, cañons, or geysers, or any of the fire-hole basins in the Park. In fact, in his only reference to the latter (Irving's Bonneville, page 236) he erroneously locates it upon the Stink- ing River (now Water) branch of the Big Horn, where the sulphur fumes from an extinct geyser basin somewhat resemble those of the Park, the basin itself, however, every way less mountain-girt and less important than any which Coulter saw within the Park, While I have given much credence to a well-indorsed camp-fire story that one Smith, a trapper, prior to the days of Bonneville, had written a narrative of his explorations of these regions, and who was killed shortly thereafter by Indians, I hare never as yet met with any pub- lished record of the same.* Border legends, although often gross exaggerations, are seldom wholly false, and scores of them indicate that white mountaineers did occasion- ally long ago visit portions of the Park for trapping or concealment, and perhaps for both purposes. This, in fact, is proven by ancient stumps of large trees cut for breastworks and for foot-logs across the Crevice, Hellroaring, and other mountain torrents, which no experienced mount- aineer would fail to recognize as the work of white men, being rounded from below in a way never practiced by any known Indians; also by a corral near Amethyst Mountain, and ruins of an ancient block-house with earth roof and loop-holes, near the grand cañon below Mount Wash- burn, clearly the work of unknown white men, and a cache of marten steel traps, of a peculiar form only used by the Hudson Bay trappers some fifty years ago, which were recently found along our road near the Indian arrowhead-quarry at Beaver Lake. In Frémont's reports of his explorations in those regions in 1842–44, he describes mountain scenery and harmless hermit Indians similar to those in the Park, but makes no mention of geysers, being probably at that time ignorant of their existence. In 1844 James Bridger described to me personally, and as I now know correctly, the cañons of the Upper Snake River, but he had then neither seen nor obtained a correct conception of the geysers, deeming them real volcanoes. His description of the Two Ocean Pass south of the Park is now admitted to be mainly correct, and there is more truth than poetry" in his camp-fire story of a foaming torrent, icy cold at its snowy fountain- head, and seething hot half a mile down the mountain-side, though not caused, as he boasted and perhaps believed, by the velocity of the descent, but by a crag-hidden fire-hole basin of spouting water and seething brim- stone. So, also, with his famous legend of the lake with millions of beaver, nearly impossible to kill because of their superior 'cuteness, with haunts and houses in inaccessible grottoes in the base of a glistening mountain of glass, which every mountaineer of our party at once recognized as an exaggeration of the artificial lake and obsidian mountain which I dis- covered, as stated in the chapter on explorations in my report of 1878. But as this locality and that of the arrow and lance head quarry are * Since the publication of the facts already narrated in my report of 1878, learning that the late Mr. George Gibbs was supposed to have obtained a copy of the man- uscript of this narrative of the trapper named Smith, and failing, after diligent search of his valuable papers (now with the ethnological bureau, under Maj. J. W. Powell) to obtain it, I last year addressed a letter of inquiry on the subject to his brother and representative, Prof. Wolcott Gibbs, of Cambridge, Mass. From his reply, learning that he failed to find the manuscript, cordially assisted by Mr. George H. Boehmer, in charge of the international exchange office of the Smithsonian, I examined the Gibbs papers in that institution. Again disappointed, I reluctantly abandoned the search, believing that if found they would impart much interesting information relative to the Hudson Bay and other early trappers of those regions, and I leave this record of the circumstances to stimulate research for this missing manuscript YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. across a sharp mountain range from where represented by Bridger and so long sought by trappers, it is not probable that he ever saw them, but that his information was derived from old Hudson Bay trappers or their Indian allies, who were, perhaps, alike interested in deceiving him as to their true location. These rumors of a mountain-girt land of won- ders at the fountain-heads of the Missouri and Yellowstone so impressed Lieutenant (now General) G. K. Warren during his explorations of the Black Hills and Great Plains up to 1857, that he planned an expedition to verify them. A strong, well-equipped party, under the command of Captain (since General) W. F. Raynolds, with Prof. F. V. Hayden as geologist, and James Bridger as guide, were sent upon this expedition and spent the season of 1859 in exploring the Black Hills and Big Horn regions, but failing to cross the towering Yellowstone Range and reach its mystic lake, they wintered upon the North Platte. Efforts were renewed in the spring by sending Lieutenant Maynadier with a party down the Big Horn to again seek a pass from the east, while the chief of the expedition with the main party sought one up the Wind River from the south. Both parties failed; Raynolds by encountering a but- tress-based, snow-capped mountain wall, to cross which, Bridger de- clared that even a crow would need to carry his grub. Turning to the west and crossing the main Wind River divide, pear the head of Green River, and failing in another effort to reach the cliff and snow encircled Park from near the Three Tetons, Raynolds abán- doned the effort, and followed the old traders' route via Henry's Fork and Lake to the Three Forks of the Missouri. He was here joined by Lieutenant Maynadier, who, baffled in all attempts to reach the Park from the east, had crossed the Yellowstone in bulī-boats below the Gate of the Mountains, and through the Bozeman Pass had reached and de- scended the Gallatin. (See Ex. Doc. 77, Fortieth Congress, first ses- sion.) The utter failure of a two years' search for the geyser basins by such well-equipped parties, led by the most famous mountaineer guide, proves them mountain-girt and isolated from the surrounding regions, with few and difficult routes of access. Thus baffled, the government made no further effort to explore the Park until long after gold-seeking pilgrims had visited various portions of it. Prominent among these prospectors were Bart Henderson, Adam Miller, George Houstin, and C. J. Barronette around the Forks of the Yellowstone, and Frederick Bottler and H. Sprague from Henry's Lake to the Forks of the Fire Hole River. All these visits were prior to 1869, when two hunters, Cook and Folsom, explored portions of the Park, but their oral report, made to General Washburn and to others who sent them from Helena, has never been published. Having myself, long before the Raynolds expedition, failed, as he did, to reach the Park from the east, in June, 1870, I again sought, after many years' absence from those regions, to reach it by ascending the Yellowstone above the Gate of the Mountains, accompanied by Frederick Bottler, from the Bottler ranch. Deep snows baffled our resolute efforts to cross the Madison Range to the geysers, and, when seeking to descend to the Yellowstone Valley below the Mammoth Hot Springs, Bottler was swept away in attempting to cross a mountain torrent above Cin- nabar Mountain, losing his rifle, ammunition, most of his clothing, and nearly his life. This mishap compelled our unwilling return from within the Park through the then nearly unknown and impassable second cañon of the Yellowstone to Bottler's, the only white ranchman at that time upon any portion of the mighty Yellowstone River. Thence I retraced YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 31 my route to Fort Ellis, published a brief account of my trip (see No. 3 of my Journal of Rambles in the Far West), and, under previous en- gagements, descended the Columbia to the ocean, purposing to return to the exploration the next year. During the following autumn the Washburn expedition was suddenly organized for Park exploration. It was composed of H. D. Washburn, N. P. Langford, T. C. Everts, S. T. Houser, O. Hedges, W. Trumbull, B. Stickney, W. C. Gillett, and J. Smith. General Washburn, in com- mand, was then surveyor-general, T. O. Everts and N. P. Langford ex- officers and all prominent and esteemed citizens of Montana Territory. They were well equipped, and at Fort Ellis were joined by Lieut. G. C. Doane and seven men; from here they followed my return route to and up the Yellowstone through its second cañon. They missed the Mam- moth Hot Springs, but visited Mount Washburn, the Great Falls and Lake, returning by the Fire Hole River and Madison route to Virginia City. When among the fingers of the Yellowstone Lake, Everts lost his way, horse, arms, and provisions, and after thirty-seven days of ex- posure, starvation, and suffering, doubtless unequaled by any other man now living, was found by Barronette and Prichette, barely alive, upon the Black Tail, near the Mammoth Hot Springs. This is the first party of really successful explorers of any considerable portion of the Park of which we have any public record. (See General Washburn's sur- veyor-general's report; also that of N. P. Langford, in the May and June, and T. O. Everts's Thirty-seven Days of Peril, in the November number of the second volume of Scribner's Monthly Magazine, and Lieu- tenant Doane's report, Senate Ex. Doc. 51, Forty-first Congress, third session.) The interesting letters, reports, and personal influence of the various members of this party led to Professor Hayden's interesting and valua- ble explorations in the wonder-land in 1871. (See Professor Hayden's Geological Surveys of 1871.) Capts. J. W. Barlow and D. P. Heap also made valuable explorations, maps, and report of portions of the Park in the same year. (See Senate Ex. Doc. 66, Forty-second Congress, sec-' ond session.) During the succeeding winter Professor Hayden and his associates were very active in publishing and distributing photographic views, sketches, and other valuable information in reference to this splendid region ; and in preparing, and, aided by many leading members of Con- gress-notably Representative (now Senator) Dawes-advocating to its passage a bill dedicating it as a health and pleasure resort for the Amer- ican people under the name of the Yellowstone National Park. (For its boundaries and control by the Secretary of the Interior, see copy of the act of dedication in Appendix, marked B.) For report of Professor Hayden's extensive explorations in the Park, see his report of Geological Surveys for 1872. Capt. W. A. Jones and Prof. Theodore B. Comstock explored mount- ain passes to, and a portion of, the Park, making valuable reports and maps. (See House Ex. Doc. 285, Forty-third Congress, first session.) In 1874, the well-known Scottish Earl Dunraven made a tour of the Park, and published an interesting narrative of the same. (See his Great Divide.) For the Rev. E. I. Stanley's visit to the Park, see his interesting narra- tive called Rambles in Wonder Land in (I think) 1874. . For Secretary of War Belknap's narrative of a tour of the Park, see his report of 1875. 32 . YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. . IN Capt. W. Ludlow made a reconnaissance of the Park in 1875. (See Engineer's Report published by War Department.) For record of P. W. Norris's explorations in the Park in 1875, see Nos. 24 and 25 of his Journal of Rambles in the Far West... Besides Moran, Jackson, Elliott, Gannett, Holmes, and other justly famous artists who have at various times accompanied Professor Hay. den's and other expeditions, J. Crissman, H. B. Calfee, Marshall, Fouche, and other photographers have at various times visited the Park, making and widely disseminating interesting views of the great falls, geysers, hot-spring terraces, and other wonders of the Park. During all these years of exploration and research, so far as I am aware, the wisdom of Congress in promptly dedicating the National Park has never been seriously questioned; nor has its size, appropriate control by the Secretary of the Interior, and his rules and regulations for its protection and management, been deemed objectionable. Hence it is not what Congress has done, but what it so long neglected to do; not the dedication of a lofty mountain-girt lava region destitute of val- uable minerals, isolated and worthless for all else, but matchless and invaluable as a field for scientists and a national health and pleasure resort for our people; but rather the failure to make moderate appro- priations for its protection and improvement until leases could be made to assist in rendering it self-sustaining, which compelled its first super- intendent, N.P. Langford, to abandon all efforts for its protection against long.allowed destructive forest fires, wanton slaughter of its interest- ing and valuable animals, and constant and nearly irreparable vandal- ism of many of its prominent wonders. So uniform was the testimony of the civil and military officers of the government, as well as of the American and European scientists and tourists who visited the Park, and so strong their appeals to the nation for its protection, or at least the sending of a commissioner or an agent specially empowered to in- vestigate and report the facts, that among the early acts of the present honorable Secretary of the Interior was my appointment as superin- tendent of the Park, specially instructed to again visit it and report the facts as I should then find them for the information of Congress. But as to funds for salary, or even expenses, none were furnished or prom- ised; but I was left to rely upon Congress to make provision to prop- erly pay for the performance of duties pointed out and positively re- quired of the Secretary of the Interior in the act dedicating the Park. This will, I think, appear clearly evident by perusal of the act of dedi- cation, the rules and regulations of the Secretary of the Interior, and my appeal to the mountaineers as published in No. 62 of the Norris Sub- urban, several hundred copies of which were gratuitously distributed throughout the regions adjacent to the Park during the spring of 1877. (These documents will be found in the Appendix, marked A, B, and C.) Under these circumstances, and without pecuniary aid from any de- partment, association, or individual, I proceeded, via Bismarck, Forts Buford and Keogh, the Custer battle-field, and Gate of the Mountains upon the Yellowstone to the Park. After visiting the most important of its known wonders, and exploring others, as well as an important cut- off trail route of approach to the Park (which from being through a por- tion of the Crow Indian Reservation is still unopened), I started to descend the Yellowstone, but meeting General Sherman I returned with him to Tower Falls. Here, by the breaking of a saddle-girth, I was unhorsed and too seriously injured to proceed with the General or even to return home, except by descending the Yellowstone in a skiff from above the Gate of the Mountains, which course I adopted. IN YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 33 During my return home the hostile Nez Percés made a raid in the Park, which was so sudden and unexpected that General Sherman and his slender escort narrowly escaped capture. Several tourists, however, then in the Park, were killed, wounded, or captured. Among these was Professor Dietrich, whose body was riddled with bullets while he was standing in the doorway of the McCartney cabin at the Mammoth Hot Springs. In addition to the tourists known to have been in the Park at this time, there were also many miners from the Black Hills region, some of whom no doubt met death at the hands of these savages, as evinced by a number of skeletons of men and horses, and fragments of blankets and other camp outfit found by myself and others near the Indian line of retreat. This was by way of the best ford upon the Yel- lowstone River, at the Mud Volcano, thence by the East Fork and Cache and Crandall Creeks. The selection of their camp sites, and their rude but effective fortifi. cations, their valor in conflict, and their omission to scalp the dead or maltreat the living who fell into their hands, indeed, their conduct in all respects, proves that the Nez Percés are not wanting in courage, chivalry, or capacity, and that they are foemen not unworthy of the noted military officers, Howard, Miles, Sturgis, and others, who have battled against them. The facts and suggestions in reference to the Park, as submitted by myself to the honorable Secretary of the Interior, were incorporated in his Report of 1877 (part first, page 837), and also deemed by him worthy of publication in pamphlet form. (See Report of the Superintendent of the Yellowstone National Park for 1877.) After a long and careful investigation of the whole subject, and in con- sideration of the written opinions of prominent scientists and explorers of our country, the cautious and prudent Congress of this period, at its first session, with flattering unanimity, made an appropriation of $10,000 for the protection and improvement of the Park. For a detailed statement of the improvements made with a portion of these funds, during the Bannack Indian raid in the summer of 1878, see the superintendent's report for that year. For accounts of the explorations and researches, in the Park, in 1878, of the assistants of Professor Hayden, Messrs. Stevenson, Holmes, Gannet, Wilson, and Peale, see Hayden's Geological Report for that year. During the year just mentioned, among other visitors to the Park, were General Nelson Miles, who, after a bloody and decisive conflict with the Ban- nacks, made its tour, with Colonel Baker and other officers, and Mrs. Miles and a party of ladies. Besides these, there were, as visitors to this wonder-land, Lord Stanley, the German Colonels Shutz and Kaster, Colonel Berthold, with a party of Utah Northern Railroad engineers, and Rev. Dr. Wayland Hoyt, of Brooklyn, N. Y. During the season of 1879 there were no geological or scientific explo- rations within the Park. It was visited, however, by Generals Sackett and Hazen, and other American, as well as by several European, mil- itary officers; and also by Messrs. Thomson and Cadwalader, of Phil. adelphia, Buckland of Ohio, and other prominent railroad officials, and Professor Geike, of Scotland. . During this year (1879) there were no Indian raids, but the resident Sheepeaters, with small bands of horse-stealing Bannacks and Sho. shones, rendered such caution necessary in selecting and guarding camps and animals as seriously to retard as well as to increase the expense of improvements in the Park. Besides substantial buildings for headquarters of the Mammoth Hot 3 YP 34 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK.. Springs and a small house in the Upper Fire Hole Basin, several impor- tant roads and trails were constructed. (For details of these improve- ments as well as for an exhibit of expenditures under the appropriation of $10,000 for Park purposes for that year, see superintendent's report of 1879.) At the pressing recommendation of the honorable Secretary of the Interior, the appropriation for the Park for the fiscal year 1880-'81 was increased to $15,000, thus justifying the employment of a gamekeeper, whose report has been previously referred to. Notwithstanding the very unfavorable season and consequent bad. state of the roads and trails within and adjacent to the Park, nearly 2,000 tourists visited and safely returned therefrom during the past sea- son. Of these, prominent in position and reputation, were Secretary Schurz, General Crook, Colonel Staunton, Hon. Jacob M. Thornburgh of Tennessee, and others, who accompanied the honorable Secretary to the Park via the Henry's Lake route from the Utah Northern Railroad. General Crook, Webb Hayes (son of the President), and others, after viewing the geysers of the Fire Hole Rivers and the Yellowstone Lake and Falls, returned as they came. The honorable Secretary, his nephew, and others of his party, after making a rapid but thorough tour of the leading points of interest within the Park, left it by the elevated and difficult trail-route to Clark's Fork just in time to escape a severe wount- ain snow storm. Among other prominent personages who visited the Park during the past season were General Davidson and lady, of Fort Custer, Colonel Alexander, of Fort Ellis, with their escorts and retinue of friends. Among the civilians were the Hon. John McNulta and lady, of Illinois ; the famous traveler and guide-writer, Mr. Robert Strahorne, and lady, of Omaha; Captain John Burns, the mountain trailer and journalist, from the Black Hills; Mr. Majors, of Utah; Mr. Butler and other members of the Crook party; a brother and nephew of General Nelson A. Miles, and doubtless many others whom I regret to have failed to meet because of my long absence in the exploration of the Yel- lowstone Lake and Cañon and the Hoodoo region. Doubtless many were somewhat disappointed in the state of the roads and trails, finding, as I have ever sought to inform the public, that, while the National Park is truly the peerless wonder-land of earth, it is also one of the largest, most elevated, and mountainous, as well as far the most humid, densely timbered, and difficult in which to construct or maintain roads or trails, of all our great mountain parks. Since the first dollar ever furnished by the nation for the protection or improvement of this heritage of wonders was expended, in August, 1878, I have deemed it more important to construct buildings for defense of the gov- ernment property from the frequently recurring and ever-threatened Indian raids, and to explore the proper routes for permanent use and open all possible of them as well as the limited time and means at my command would allow for immediate use, than to hazard the loss of gov- ernment animals, outfit, and probably valuable lives by Indians, or the construction of a few miles of fine coach-road, leaving the remainder of the Park as I found it-mainly an unexplored pathless region, crags, and forests. I deem the roads and trails as I have represented them- passable, most of them convenient, and portions of them excellent. Few residents of those regions find difficulty in traversing any of the roads with the teams and vehicles in common use there, but many of the grades and causeways neither are nor are claimed to be yet pre- pared for the use of heavy broad-track military wagons for mule-trains, such as were used upon several of them during the past season. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 35 ABORIGINES OF THE PARK. Although the Crow Indians upon the north, the Shoshones upon the east and south, and the Bannocks upon the west might have, during the brief summers, traversed the few difficult passes to the Park, there is little evidence to show that they did so. It is probable that they were deterred less by these natural obstacles than by a superstitious awe concerning the rumbling and hissing sulphur fumes of the spouting geysers and other hot springs, which they imagined to be the wails and groans of departed Indian warriors who were suffering punishment for their earthly sins. The only real occupants of the Park were the pigmy tribe of three or four hundred timid and harmless Sheepeater Indians, who seem to have won this appellation on account of their use of the flesh and skin of the big- horn sheep for food and clothing, and their skill in hunting these animals amid the cliffs, crags, and cañons of the snowy mountains. Whether these people are the remnant of some former race, as the legendary wild men of the mountains, or are descendants of refugees - from the neighboring Bannock and Shoshone Indians, is not known, although their own traditions and the similarity of their languages and signals indicate a common origin, or, at least, occasional intermingling. These Sheepeaters were very poor, nearly destitute of horses and fire- arms, and, until recently, even of steel or iron hatchets, knives, or other weapons or implements. The stumps and the ends of the poles for lodges, wickeups, and coverts for arrow-shooting, from having been cut by their rude obsidian or volcanic-glass axes, appear not unlike beaver- gnawings. On account of this lack of tools they constructed no permanent hab- itations, but as evinced by traces of smoke and fire-brands they dwelt in caves and nearly inaccessible niches in the cliffs, or in skin-covered lodges, or circular upright brush-heaps called wickeups, decaying evi- dences of which are abundant near the Mammoth Hot Springs, the various fire-hole basins, the shores of Yellowstone Lake, the newly ex- plored Hoodoo region, and in nearly all of the sheltered' glens and val. leys of the Park. Within or near these haunts, and notably at a great hot spring upon the Gardiner River, at and below the Sheepeater Cliffs, which are abore the Mammoth Hot Springs, and also in the Hoodoo, Pelican Creek, and Yellowstone Lake regions are found rude stone or decaying timber breastworks for temporary defense from man or animals, but all the substantial bulwarks found are those made by the Nez Percé and Ban- nock Indians during their recent raids. To these latter Indians may be attributed the recent graves as well as burial cairns within the Park ; but as the Sheepeater Indians did not place their dead upon branchéd trees, or upon scaffolds, like the brown Indians of the Great Plains, graves or .cemeteries of this people may yet be found. Other traces of this tribe are found in the rude, decaying, and often extensive pole or brush fences for drive-ways of the deer, bison, and other animāls to the arrow.coverts, in the cañons or in the narrow passes between them, for slaughter with their rude lances and obsidian-headed arrows. For want of proper tools, but little timber was cut, and these drive- ways were mainly constructed of the ever-abundant dead and fallen sap- lings, with the roots attached, which, from their pitchy properties, long outlast the trunksand branches, thus enabling an experienced mountain- 36 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. eer to trace these drive-ways a long distance, even in groves of thrifty timber. One of the most accessible of these drive-ways is upon the southern cliff of the impassable cañon of the West Gardiner, having its evidently more recent arrow-covert withiu point-blank range of its verge over- looking Rustic Falls. From this covert there are traces of one wing that skirted the valley toward Swan Lake, and of another that wound through groves of pine at the base of Bunsen's Peak, far toward the Sheepeater Cliffs, upon the Middle Gardiner, nearly two miles distant. Countless drive-ways and coverts in every stage of decay are still found in favorable localities throughout the Park, and are often crossed unobserved by ordinary tourists. In fact, these Indians have left fewer enduring evidences of their occupancy than the beaver, badger, and other animals on which they subsisted. HABITATIONS OF WHITE MEN WITHIN THE PARK. A list of the habitations of the early white rovers or explorers of these regions is here given, as well as those constructed in more recent times. 1. An earth-roofed, loop-holed cabin, 16 by 20 feet in diameter, discov- ered by Frederick Bottler, and visited and described by me in 1878, was almost entirely destroyed by the great fire of 1879. It was situated between Antelope Creek and the Grand Cañon, below Mount Washburn. Nothing is certainly known of its age, or of the character of its build. ers, but the advanced decay of the timber of which it is constructed, its fallen roof and generally dilapidated condition, indicate that it was the work of Hudson Bay or other trappers forty or fifty years ago. In corroboration of this theory is the absence of port-holes opening alike each way, as usual and proper in the now general use of fire-arms by Indians. This arrangement would have allowed a warrior armed with bow and arrows, by stealthy maneuvering in darkness through the tim- ber, to use his weapons in silence and within point-blank range in front with terrible effect, but which was in trapper days prevented by using loop-holes, each open but one way, but alternating in direction, thus preventing a bowman from reaching a dangerous position before exposed to loop-holed cross-fire. 2. A log house upon the point just above the Forks of the Yellowstone, built by C. J. Baronette in the spring of 1871. This was soon burned, presumably by Indians, and a second one, now in ruins, constructed on its site. 3. Earth-roofed log house in the ravine flanking the Mammoth Hot Springs, built by J. C. McCartney and Henry Hor in the summer of 1871, with which have been subsequently associated other houses, as well as bath-houses, some of which are shingle-roofed. 4. An earth-roofed log house, and also a cabin bath-house, built by M. McGuirk in 1871–272, near the Mammoth Hot Springs, and which still bear his name. 5. Earth-roofed cabin at Toppin's Point, near the foot of Yellowstone Lake, built by Captain Toppin in 1875. 6. Fine shingle-roof block-house of hewn timber, with a balcony and three wings, and surmounted by a gun-turret upon a commanding nåt- ural mound frouting the Mammoth Hot Springs, built by the superin- tendent of the Park for use as headquarters in the summer of 1879. (See frontispiece.) 7. Earth-roofed cabin in a small grove upon the bank of the Fire Hole YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 37 River, between the Castle and Bee Hive Geysers in the Upper Fire Hole Basin, built by the superintendent of the Park in the fall of 1879. 8. Block-house, barn, blacksmith shop, and bath-house at the Mam. moth Hot Springs, built by the superintendent of the Park during the summer of 1880. : 9. Earth-roofed log house and barn, for the Riverside mail-station at the forks of the old cañon, and the terrace roads below the cañon of the Madison, upon the road to Henry's Lake, built by Marshall and Goff during the summer of 1880. 10. Fine-shingle roofed mail-station and hotel, with barn and out- buildings, upon a cold rivulet at the foot of the cliffs just west of the Forks of the Fire Hole Rivers, built by Marshall and Goff during the summer and fall of 1880. 11. Rude, earth.roofed cabin and barn at the Norris Fork mail-station, built by Marshall and Goff in the fall of 1880. 12. Earth-roofed cabin for gamekeeper, upon the foot-hill terrace south of the confluence of the East Fork of the Yellowstone and Soda Butte Rivers, built by the superintendent of the Park and its gamekeeper late in the fall of 1880. These, with several miners' cabins, and perhaps a Chilian arrastra upon the Montana and Crow Indian Reservation portion of the Park are all the buildings that have been constructed by white men within the Yellowstone National Park, of which I have any knowledge, down to the close of the year 1880. WATER-CRAFT OF WHITE MEN. 1. The Anna (so named by the members of the Hayden expedition, in honor of Miss Anna Dawes, the accomplished daughter of Senator Dawes, of Massachusetts, who had been one of the most zealous and efficient advocates of the dedication of the Park to national purposes, and who has since proved his interest in all efforts for its protection and improvement) was a small but serviceable canvas boat, and, under the skillful management of Messrs. Holmes, Stevenson, and others of the Hayden expedition, proved valuable in the exploration of the Yellow- stone and Shoshone Lakes during the season of 1871. 2. The Toppin, a small sail-boat of green, whipsawed timber, built by Captain Toppin at his cabin, near the foot of Yellowstone Lake, in the summer of 1875, and which, after perilous service during a small portion of the seasons of 1875 and 1876, was dismantled, abandoned, and finally lost. 3. The Explorer, so called by my own party, was built by the Hoffer Brothers, at Toppin's Point, during the summer of 1880, and was some 20 feet long, 6 feet wide, and 21 feet deep. Loggy and clumsy, it re- quired skillful management and ceaseless labor to keep her in order ; but with her I succeeded in exploring the lake and its near tributaries to the rapids. Finally, however, she was wrecked, and I left her battered hulk near the point where she was built. I saw a rude canoe at the lower rapids of the Upper Yellowstone, and probably others have been used by both Indians and white men, but the above list embraces all the boats that, to my knowledge, have buf. feted the blue waters of this mystic lake. BRIDGES. . The one constructed in the spring of 1871, by C. J. Baronette across the main Yellowstone River, just above the forks, and over a dangerous 38 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. rapid and cañon, and one that cannot be avoided, was dismantled and partially burned by the Nez Percé Indians in 1877. It was repaired, however, by Baronette, myself, and others in 1878, but was always con- sidered unsafe, and in the spring of 1880 was replaced by a substantial structure upon the old site. The necessity of reaching this, their only route of access in the absence of a safe ford upon the Yellowstone, led C. J. Baronette and J. W. Ponsford to construct the latter, which can be purchased by the government at less than its cost or value. These are the only bridges that are known to have been constructed across the Yellowstone River in its course of many hundreds of miles. In connection with road and trail building, I have constructed bridges upon ail the branches of the Gardiner River, most of those of the Gibbon, also Tower Creek, Cascade, and other creeks, near the Great Falls of the Yellowstone and other localities, deemed unnecessary to here mention. ANIMALS OF THE PARK. BISON OR MOUNTAIN BUFFALO. Bison, so called, in the Park, are somewhat smaller, of lighter color, less curly, and with horns smaller and less spreading than those of the bison that formerly inhabited the great parks of Colorado. They have also smaller shoulder humps, and larger, darker brisket wattles. They differ materially from the buffalo of the Great Plains, being more hardy, fleet, and intelligent; their hides also are more valuable for robes, as they are darker, finer, and more curly ; and these animalsare, in all prob- ability, a cross between the two varieties just mentioned. There are about three distinct or separate herds of bison within or adjacent to the Park. The first, numbering about two hundred, pasture in summer in the val. leys of the Crevice, Hellroaring, and Slough Creeks, and the mountain spurs between them, descending, with the increasing snows, to winter in the deep, sheltered grassy valleys of the East Fork of the Yellowstone and Soda Butte, and as the snows melt, accompanied by their young, returning to their old haunts. The second, numbering over one hundred, summer in the elevated and abruptly-broken, little-known section of the Park, extending from the Hoodoo region to the Grand Oañon, and from Amethyst Mountain to Pelican Oreek, near the foot of the Yellowstone Lake, and winter occa- sionally upon the East Fork of the Yellowstone and on Pelican Creek. Their other winter haunts are unknown. The third herd, numbering about three hundred, roams in scattering bands. This season they were discovered upon the Madison Plateau and Little Madison River. Their winter haunts are unknown, though it is probable they are on the Pacific side of the Continental Divide, and, if so, they are not permanent occupants of the Park, and are therefore likely to be slaughtered by advancing settlers. These animals, but little smaller than our common cattle, and with flesh quite as palatable, are easily domesticated. I have always care- fully protected them from wanton slaughter during the deep snows of winter and when with their young in the spring, at which times alone they require such protection, being at other seasons the most keen of scent and difficult of approach of all mountain animals. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 39 MOOSE. Three of these animals were seen during the past season near the Lake of the Woods, and a few others in the various Fire Hole Basins. Their main haunts are in the densely timbered, swampy region around the various fingers and the thumb of the Yellowstone Lake. They also frequent the boggy inlets of Shoshone, Lewis, and Heart Lakes and the Snake River regions to the Tetons without the Park, but nowhere are they numerous. The boggy and inaccessible nature of their haunts ren- ders these large and majestic animals difficult of capture, and on account of its scarcity their flesh is the more highly prized. Any attempt at their domestication must begin with inclosing them in some secure place. ELK. This animal is one of the largest, most beautiful, interesting, and val. uable of those that inhabit this continent, and, so far as I have any knowledge, in no part of the United States were they ever found of greater size, symmetry of form, stateliness of antlers, or in greater num. ber than in the great National Park at the period of its discovery in 1870. As stated in my first report, at least 7,000 of these valuable animals were slaughtered between 1875 and 1877 for their hides, or perhaps for their carcasses, which were stripped and poisoned for bear, wolf, or wolverine bait. Since the first appropriation, however, for protection of the Park in 1878, notwithstanding the numbers since killed by our . laborers, as well as by numerous tourists and raiding Indians, they have not seriously diminished, and but for the unprecedented severity of the past winter would have greatly increased; their increase hereafter, how. ever, is assured if properly protected. They are inoffensive and harm- less, and frequent all portions of the Park, often high up amid the mount- ain snows in summer, and in the most sheltered valleys in winter, in herds of a hundred or more. While the horns of these animals in the Park are, as elsewhere, unusually long, spreading, and symmetrically branched, there are many and remarkable exceptions. Some have lobed branches extending down wards, caribou-like, in front of the face; the horns of others are short, flat, and lobed, similar to those of the moose, while still others have horns both lobed and branched. A specimen pair of horns, which I brought from the Park in 1878, is doubtless the heaviest ever seen in Washington. They are not only lobed and branched, but otherwise so notably peculiar in form as to lead me to inquire (1) are the animals to which this characteristic belongs a cross between the moose and the elk, though there is nothing else in the ap. pearance of the animal to indicate this? or (2) is this phenomenon only a freak of nature? or (3) are the animals producing these wide horns really a subspecies of the elk? The careful consideration of naturalists is invited to this subject. WHITE-TAILED DEER. These animals do not differ essentially from those of the Atlantic States in size, color, horns, or habits. They usually frequent the densely timbered valleys and foot-hills, are more shy, sharp-eyed, and fleet, and less migratory than the black-tailed variety. BLACK-TAILED DEER.. This is essentially a mountain animal, choosing the broken foot-hills or terraced slopes for pasturage and rest, and is difficult of approach ex- U11 . 40 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. cepting from above. It is frequently called mule-deer. by tourists, and is so named in museums, though incorrectly, I think, since, while there are no two varieties of the deer family, in my opinion, more dissimilar, none of the latter inhabit the Park. U PRONG-HORNED ANTELOPE. The National Park is, as a rule, too moist and thickly timbered to be a favorite resort of antelope, but they were once numerous in the open val- leys of the Upper Gardiner River the open grassy region thence to the Forks of the Yellowstone, and up its East Fork to the Soda Butte, as well as on the main stream between the Great Falls, around the Sulphur Mountain westward to Mary's Lake, and in the Madison Valley. No other animal has suffered such severe slaughter, not alone within the Park, but upon the great plains, below the Gate of the Mountains, and upon the Yellowstone, where in their migrations they were wunt to winter. BIG-HORN. SHEEP. Although the web-footed, snow-loving white sheep, or Rocky Mount- ain goats are numerous in many of the adjacent snowy regions, I have never seen one within the Park, but the true big-horn sheep are abun- dant on all the mountain crests, as well as on their craggy spurs and foot-hills throughout the Park, which they never leave. Their habits and habitats tend to their preservation, which can, however, be better as- sured by a little effort and a small outlay. D BEARS. The mountain men of this region believe that in the Park there are åt least six varieties of the bear tribe, besides the long-tailed mud bear, or wolverine. . Grizely bear. The hog-back, or real California grizzly, with a mane upon the shoulders, is one of the largest, most powerful, ferocious, and dangerous animals upon the continent, but is less numerous than some other varieties within the Park. Specimens often occur of incredible size.. At times one is met with which, when erect on its haunches-the customary position when looking for an enemy-will overtop in height. a man on horseback. With one blow of its fearful fore paw and claws this animal is able to disembowel and kill any other animal of this region. One which I shot near Beaver Lake in the fall of 1879, after he had killed a valuable horse, was certainly heavier than any one of the more than fifty horses in our band. From his carcass thirty-five gallons of oil were obtained, and his skin, now in Washington, after being trimmed and dressed is still 8 feet 6 inches long (exclusive of the tail) and 6 feet 6 inches wide. Though but few larger than this have been taken, many but little inferior in size have been killed by different members of our parties. They seldom fail to cover with decaying logs, rubbish, or stones an elk or other animal they may kill, remaining near the body or returning nightly to it, as though a tempting dessert to their meal of grasshoppers, roots, and berries; for, human-like, they enjoy a mixed diet, though not so dainty as man in regard to its kind or quality. Although, save in defense of these carcasses or of its young, this bear seldom provokes attack upon man, it invariably resists one, and if wounded usually charges furi- ously, either to its own death or that of its foe, and not infrequently both. Indeed, it may truly be said to be the mountaineer's most dreaded foe. Silver-tipped bear. This animal is nearly destitute of a mane, and is somewhat smaller, less powerful and ferocious than the true grizzly ; YELLOWSTONE LI 41 NATIONAL PARK. moreover its coat of hair is much longer than the latter's, and is tipped at the ends with a glistening, silvery white; hence the name. Cinnamon bear. This is so called from its reddish-brown color. It is somewhat longer and more slender than the smut-faced bear, and nearly his equal in audacious ferocity. Smut-faced bear.-This is a still smaller animal, with a brockled, imp- ish-looking face-a true indicator of the character of the beast. It is the most meddlesome and pugnacious of the bear family. Black bear.—This animal in the Park only differs from those of the East in his greater size and the greater length and fineness of his fur, and is as elsewhere, either wild or domesticated, uniformly a less fero- cious animal than any of the above-described species. 66 Silk bear,"_This provincialism is the only designation I have heard applied to this smallest and rarest variety of the bear family. The few of which I have personal knowledge were found near the upper limit of timber, engaged in biting, in order to more easily break off for food, the cone-laden boughs of the piñon pines. They were all very fat, and had a coat of glistening black fur, fine and of extra length, rendering them more valuable than any of the species of the bear family. All of these short-tailed varieties of bear hibernate in hollow trees, in caves, or more frequently in rude wickeups, amid the dense evergreen declivities of the mountains, to which they retire early in winter, and remain until the accumulated snows thaw in spring, when they scramble out, often very lean, and always tender-footed, but soon recruit strength by devouring roots and mountain moles at the nearest slopes clear of spow. Few mountain scenes are more ludicrously interesting than that of half a dozen bears, of assorted colors and sizes, engaged in the sport of catching the burrowing mole just below some melting snow-drift upon the steep and slippery mountain side. In ignorance of their mode of making details for duty, I can only say that it seems to be the especial task of one of each party to pull up the sage-brush, thereby unearthing the moles; the rest of them, in their efforts to catch and eat them, often falling pell-mell over each other, like Chippewa Indians engaged in a game of Lacrosse. A variation of this sport is occasionally caused by a shower of explosive bullets from the repeating rifle of a grim mountaineer, perched unseen upon some overlooking snow-field, cliff, or tree-top. Wolverine, or long-tailed mud bear. This animal, although considered a variety of the bear family, does not hibernate. It has a long tail, differ- ing in this and other marked characteristics from other varieties; in fact, this audacious trap and camp plunderer seems in size and form, as well as in color, a strange blending of the black bear, the badger, and the coyote. In character, also, it combines the rapacious greed and pugnacity of all these animals with the Asiatic jackals craving for carrion. His chosen haunts are the most densely timbered foot-hills of the mountains, where he is ever ready to steal what the bear, wolf, or lion slaughters. His ex- tremely heavy far, long outer hair, and thick, firm, and badger-like skin, seemingly much too large for him, allow him to squirm his body out of the jaws of nearly every other animal; and to these peculiar advantages for defense are added teeth and claws unrivaled for attack. Unlike other carnivora, their teeth do not puncture but lacerate, and, chisel-like in their powerful jaws, smoothly sever skin, bone, and tendon, inflicting such fearful wounds that most animals prefer relinquishing their game to hazarding combat. MOUNTAIN LION OR COUGAR. These animals are much larger, coarser-haired, and more ferocious than the animal known as the eastern panther, and during my first 42 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. explorations in the Park were exceedingly numerous and troublesome, less, however, from actual attacks upon our men or animals than by their sudden terribly sharp and prolonged screams, which reverberated in frightful intensity around our evening camp-fires in the deep and crag-hidden mountain defiles. This tantalizing tendency to start false Indian alarms and stampede the animals has led to persistent efforts of the mountaineers, with rifle, trap, and poison, to exterminate them, and so successful have their efforts proved that now the comparatively few survivors usually content themselves with slaughter of deer, antelope, and perhaps elk, at a respectful distance from camp. WOLVES. The large, ferocious gray or buffalo wolf, the sneaking, snarling coy. ote, and a species apparently between the two, of a dark brown or black color, were once exceedingly numerous in all portions of the Park, but the Aalue of their hides and their easy slaughter with strychnine poisoned carcasses of animals have nearly led to their extermination. FOXES. Foxes are numerous and of various colors, the red, grey, black and the cross varieties (most valuable of all) predominating in the order named. SKUNK. In no region have I found these animals more numerous, audacious, or odoriferous than in the Park, and though I have no proof of their tend- ency to rabies, as is the case with those of Kansas and the Indian Ter- ritory, I have an instinctive dread of them. Hundreds of them were slaughtered before we could sleep peacefully at the Mammoth Hot Springs, and they are such an intolerable nuisance around old camping- places that tourists often slaughter several of them, and thoroughly permeate the atmosphere with their abominable stench, before they are able to secure repose. BADGER. These animals are similar, if not, indeed, identical, with those of the East in appearance and habits, and are numerous in inost of the valleys and terraces of the Park, but are less abundant than is indicated by their countless burrows, which are annoyingly evident to horsemen long after their abandonment. · ROCK DOG.. The animal thus called, somewhat abounding in the Park, is similar in appearance and habits to the Eastern woodchuck or ground-hog, but much smaller, and utters a different cry of alarm while disappearing in its burrows amid the rocks. PORCUPINE. This animal is of an extraordinary size, and is occasionally found in the timbered portions of the Park. . RABBITS. The jack-rabbit of the sage-brush plains is only found in the limited areas of that pestiferous shrub, but the large, web-footed, slit-lipped hare, gray in summer and white in winter, is simply numberless in the tangled thickets throughout the Park. Another variety, similar to the YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 43 seen; while the plaintive notes of a smaller variety, called the cony, are often heard amid the débris of snow-slides or avalanches around the elevated timbered foot-hills of the mountains. RATS. There are no prairie-dogs within the Park, but the barking sedge-rat, which is somewhat similar in appearance to the prairie-dog, and bur- rows extensively, though not in towns, is numerous. So also is a spe- cies of long-eared and hairy-tailed mountain rat. MICE. Long-eared mice are here countless, and exceedingly troublesome around the camp and in the cabin. BURROWING MOLES. But few of the tourists who have traversed much of the Park on horse- back will soon forget the annoyance caused them by the countless loose hillocks and hidden burrows of this seldom-seen but ever-industrious animal, in the fertile valleys as well as in the sage-brush-covered foot- hills and on the terraced slopes of the mountain sides. SQUIRRELS. The only squirrel at all plentiful in this section is of a dark-brown.or nearly black color, but not otherwise different from the red squirrel of the East. CHIPMUNKS. young of this animal in the East. BEAVER. Few regions, even less elevated, are so favorable as a haunt for the sagacious beaver or are so fully occupied by it as the National Park, which is one of the largest, as well as one of the most densely tim- bered regions of North America. Well supplied with rivulets invaria- bly bordered with willows, and having numerous creeks of cold water, of tepid water as well as a surface elevation alike remarkably uniform. These outlets, relatively clear of ice, afford unusual advantages for bur- row habitations in their banks, or for the construction, in their sloughs, of the ordinary two-story brush-and-turf houses of these animals; the sloughs and streams being used as canals for floating their winter food supplies of brush and small timber, dams being far fewer and smaller here than are usually necessary elsewhere. Unmolested by man, who is ever their most dangerous enemy, the conditions here mentioned are so favorable to their safety that soon they would construct dams upon so many of the cold-water streams as literally to flood the narrow valleys, terraced slopes, and passes, and thus render the Park uninhabitable for men as well as for many of the animals now within its confines. In consideration of this I have not seriously interfered with the trappers who have annually taken from the Park hundreds, if not thousands, of the valuable skins of these animals, without payment for the samesa custom, however, which should not be permitted to continue, since some 44 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. revenue should be derived by the government from these furs. A law should therefore be enacted or some regulation prescribed with a view to this end; but without a small police force it would be difficult to en- force any restriction in this respect. OTTER, MINK, MUSKRAT, ETC. Neither otter, mink, nor muskrat are numerous in the Park; nor are marten, sable, or ermine plentiful. The skins, however, of these ani- mals, as well as those of the beaver and other animals that are obtained, are generally among the most valuable of their kinds, and, owing to the isolation and rigorous climate of the Park, are never out of season. BIRDS OF THE PARK. Eagles, of the usual mountain varieties, are common throughout the Park, and especially about the Yellowstone and other lakes. A very large black variety haunts and raises its young upon the inaccessible and tottering pinnacles of the eroded cliffs along the Grand, Gardiner, and other cañons, and is particularly numerous and audacious in the Hoodoo labyrinths. This bird hovers about and terribly annoys the big-horn sheep to pick up the lame or wounded. In one instance it caused a lamb to fall from a towering cliff and thus secured a repast below; but from my position I was unable to observe whether the lamb was frightened froin its place on the cliff, or hurled off after being crippled by the eagle's talons, breast, or wing. Í incline, however, to think the latter was the case. It is also the opinion of Mr. Adam Miller, a most experienced mountaineer. On another occasion, when in company with this mountaineer, I experienced quite a lively time in saving from a flock of these eagles an antelope which we had shot on the East Fork, the birds only leaving the game after we had killed several of their number. The great bald-headed turkey.buzzard or North American vulture will soon find a carcass in any portion of the Park, aided by their smaller, more numerous, and audacious friends, the raven. The latter bird is here often called the crow, but erroneously, as there are few if any crows inhabiting these regions. Blackbirds are countless in summer on the borders of lakes and streams. Swan, pelican, geese, and brant are plentiful in all the streams and . lakes of the Park, and hatch their young in vast numbers, notably near the mouths of the Upper Yellowstone trail and Pelican Creek tributa- ries of the Yellowstone Lake. Ducks of several species are also found and in countless numbers, and hatch around the resorts of geese and swan as well as in the Fire Hole Basins. In these last-mentioned localities some of them remain late in autumn, if not indeed during the winter, as I saw them amid the dense fogs of the Norris Geyser Basin late in November of 1879, and on the 16th of November of this year I shot a fine one in the warm reser- voir, at the Mammoth Hot Springs, when the thermometer ranged 10 degrees below zero. Sage-hens or cock of the plains are sparingly found in the open por- tions of the park. Pheasants, somewhat smaller and of a darker plumage than the drumming-partridge of the East, frequent the densely-timbered foot-hills of the mountain ranges. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 45 The fool-hen variety of the grouse are numerous around the margins of hot springs, near the permanent snow-fields, and other varieties are abundant in lower elevations throughout the Park, affording fine sport and delicious food for the health and pleasure-seeking tourist. Sand-hill cranes sound their morning reveillé in trumpet-tones from the Fire Hole Basins and marsh-bordered tepid-water ponds. Hawks of various kinds by day and owls by night, prey upon the rab- bits, moles, and grouse, as well as upon the chattering jack-daw and the gaudy blue-jay, the camp-pest of the mountains, there called whist- ling-bob. FISHES OF THE PARK. No peculiarity of these regions is better established than that of the presence of long, slender white worms in the intestines and flesh of the countless large and beautiful trout of the Yellowstone Lake, named by Professor Cope Salmo pleuriticus. All the trout of its cold-water tribu- taries below contain them, but not those above the first rapids; also the main Yellowstone above, but not below its first falls, as I have estab- lished by frequent examination of specimens of this fish. This clearly. indicates that the cause of the presence of these worms exists in the lake; further than this, nothing has been established with regard to this phenomenon. My own theory of some years ago, as to the larvæ of the innumerable flies from the warm-stream tributaries (and well known to be devoured by the trout) hatching in the stomach of this fish, and the numerous other theories that have been advanced, hare none of them proved to be correct. Can the cause be due to quantities of mi- nute vegetable fragments which adulterate and discolor these otherwise clear, pure, cold waters, and, often thrown by the waves into windrows along the rocky shores, temporarily discolor them? I think not, since Lake Abundance, Trout Lake, and many other waters proverbial for excellent trout, are also enormously weedy, or impregnated with minerals of which there is comparatively little evidence in the Yellow- stone Lake; while nowhere is this fish more abundant or excellent than in the main Yellowstone at Tower Falls, and thence on to its junction with the East Fork, and up the latter where the sulphur and other fumes arising from the water are so powerful as to be scarcely endura- ble. Nor have I in any region found trout more numerous or better than in the Soda Butte and Cache Creek branches of the East Fork, immediately below their famous mineral springs, notably in the latter, within the half mile below where the stream bubbles with hissing hot sulphur which impregnates and covers with a beautiful white and orange coating the rocky bed of the channel far below, and which this fish frequents. Professor Leidy states that this worin is Dibothrium cordiceps, and is found in little sacks imbedded in fragments of flesh. He considers it as entirely different from the worms found in the European salmon. Owing, however, to the abundance of trout not affected with parasites, it may never be necessary for tourists to use those in question as an article of food. Still, no danger to health or life need be apprehended from eat- ing the latter, as cooking absolutely destroys the worm; and in my opinion those epicures whose stomachs yearn for the trail of the wood- cock or the intestinal contents of the snipe, need not hesitate at the insignificant parasites of the trout of Yellowstone Lake. This worm is not believed to be a constant parasite of this fish, however, since speci- 46 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. · mens in good health are often taken, but showing scars or marks of out- lets for them. That in the Yellowstone Lake alone trout are infested with worms, notably where the Shoshone Lake trail strikesit; that they are here count- less in number, in water bubbling with hot gases; that they voraciously take the bait, and that the angler can, without changing his position or removing the fish from the hook, rapidly boil them in seething pools, are not statements but facts capable of demonstration. In addition to trout in the cool waters of the Yellowstone Creek and the Gallatin Fork of the Missouri, there may be found the mountain herring, one of the most delicious of fish. This, with the grayling, af- fords excellent sport for the fisherman; while the student of ichthyol- ogy will find numerous species of smaller fry to reward his collecting ardor. REPTILES. The large, yellowish spotted rattlesnake has been observed only in the Yellowstone Valley, below the Mammoth Hot Springs, and few reptiles of any variety have been found elsewhere in the Park. INSECTS. The indigenous and the migratory grasshoppers are found in vast num- bers throughout the Park, and are useful for fish bait, as the trout, of these regions do not usually take the artificial fly as well as those of the East. There are found extensive horizontal layers of these in some of the ancient snow and ice fields of the mountains, probably of the migra- tory species, chilled in their lofty flight, some of which, at least, do not revive to pestiferous activity in thawing, as is frequent with these in- sects. The yellow gad-fly and several other varieties, aided by the musical mosquito, for a brief period of each summer, drive nearly all animals into “smudges” of smoke, or else high upon the snowy mountains to es- cape them. There are no honey bees, and few if any of the other varieties of this: insect, but wasps and a small but vindictive hornet abound in the valleys. TIMBER OF THE PARK. Much of interest and practical importance in reference to the forests. of this proverbially timbered mountain park, is necessarily omitted from this report. As stated in its proper connection, the ancient timber now found fos- silized upon the mountain slopes, is evidently much larger and mainly of different varieties from that now growing in the Park, probably embracing a smaller proportion of the coniferæ. Black or bastard fir is far the largest variety of timber now growing in the Park, and usually found scattered through forests of smaller timber near the Mammoth Hot Springs, Tower Talls, Upper Yellow. stone, and other elevated terraces. It is often found from three to five feet in diameter and one hundred and fifty feet in height, and is not un- like the eastern hemlock in the irregular form of its branched-top as well as the coarse-grained, shaky, and inferior quality of its timber. Black spruce, growing on the moist, sheltered slopes of the mountains, near the snow, though having a smaller trunk, is fully as tall as the black fir, and is a statelier tree and more valuable for timber or lumber. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, 47 Red fir is the next in size (which nearly equals that of the Norway pine of Michigan) and the first in value of any tree in the Park for hewn-timber for building bridges, &c., for which purposes it is admi. rably adapted. It is abundant in all except the very elevated regions. · White pine, rivaling in symmetrical beauty the white pine of the East, but much inferior in size, and somewhat in quality, is the prevailing timber of most of the elevated terrace groves, and occasionally of the narrow valleys and cañon passes of the mountains. It grows very densely, often rendering traveling among it upon horseback exceedingly difficult when standing and utterly impossible when burned and fallen, as it is over large areas of the Park, proving one of the greatest impedi- ment to exploring as well as to improvment by roads and bridle-paths. It is the best material found in the Park for lumber, shingles, small timber, rafters, fence poles, &c. Balsam fir, somewhat different from that of the Alleghanies, is abund- ant and very beautiful, singly or in dense groves or isolated clumps scat- . tered over the grassy slopes, just below the mountain sñow-fields. Cedar of a red or spotted variety, growing low and very branched, but with timber valuable for fence-posts, is abundant. Poplar or aspen is found in dense thickets among the sheltered foot- hills. Dwarf maple, with leaves often scarlet with fungus, is sparingly found, and innumerable dense thickets of willow; the main value of all these last named varieties being for the food use of beaver or for bait. CLIMATE OF THE PÁRK. I greatly regret the breakage of our thermometers and consequent want of weather records until they were replaced, but the records given in the Appendix have been kept with great care and are deemed accu- rate and reliable. As stated in my last year's report the records strengthen my previ- ous impressions that the Park is less a severely cold than a peculiarly moist and stormy portion of these mountain regions, save during a brief but beautiful summer. The cause or causes of these peculiarities of temperature and moisture in the Park appear to be neither remote or difficult to comprehend, The anomalous heat and humidity of the at- mosphere in all of the Fire Hole Basins is evident and traditional during the warm seasons of the year, when they are the best known. In fact all known of them in cold weather is my own experience during the early part of last winter, which tends to the belief that these geyser regions are relatively warm and moist in winter also. The terraces of the Mammoth Hot Springs and the cones to the various geyser and gey- serite rims to other hot springs and sulphur pits are certainly much warmer than other rocky formations; and the adjacent areas of surface, if not indeed much of that of the Park, is at least somewhat warmer than that of other regions, for the snow in much of the Park seldom remains long even during moderately cold weather, nor is the earth often long or deeply frozen. For these reasons the terrible winter storms which cross the Sierra-Shoshone Range become much modified before crossing the Park, which observation and experience alike indi- cate is much warmer in winter than the less elevated surrounding re- gions. ROUTES TO THE PARK. The northern route has the advantages of cool summer travel upon the great lakes and the Missouri and Yellowstone Rivers, and railroad con- 48 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. nections with Manitoba and other British possessions, and ere long with Oregon, Washington Territory, and the northern route to Asia via the Northern Pacific Railroach. This latter railroad has recently been ex- tended into Montana, and probably will reach the Yellowstone River in time for the coming season's tourists to enjoy a steamboat trip upon that romantic stream to at least the mouth of the Big Horn, and thence a coach trip via Bozeman to the Mammoth Hot Springs within the Park. The southern route via the Central Pacific Railroad to California, as well as the Denver Pacific and other railroads to Saint Louis, affords great facilities for the Southern and Southwestern States and Terri- tories, and for the increasing class of scientists and retired military and naval officers, or those upon leave of absence, who, while making the grand tour of the world, now annually visit the Park. The Utah North- ern Railroad has entered Montana, and doubtless will deliver the com- ing season's tourists to where a thirty-mile coach ride upon the line of Gilmer & Salesbury will land them in Virginia City. Thence the coach line of Marshall & Goff will (upon a good road, mainly constructed by the public-spirited citizens of Virginia City) carry passengers via Henry's Lake direct to their hotel at the forks of the Fire Hole Rivers within the Park. One of these routes presents the greatest variety of scenery, modes of travel, and somewhat shortest distance; the other the most direct con- tinuous railroad connection, least coach or horseback travel, and conse- quently requires the least time; but practically both are convenient and necessary, as most persons with time and means will prefer going one route and returning the other. Camp outfit and provisions can be purchased without extortion at Bozeman and Virginia City. At these places also, as well as at the Mammoth Hot Springs and at the Forks of the Fire Hole, reliable guides, with saddle outfit complete, will always be obtainable. There will doubtless be regular mail communications from both Vir- ginia City and Bozeman. Time really necessary to view the leading wonders of the Park, ten days, but many more may be enjoyed with benefit; season of the year for a visit, July, August, and early September; cost of trip, although one of the most important considerations with most persons, is, from their diverse positions, tastes, and modes of travel, the most difficult to state, even approximately, but will range from $400 to $800 for the en- tire expenses of a visit to the mystic wonder-land. The best plan is, as recommended in last year's report, to make the Park the main object and turning-point of a season's rambles, visiting at least the Salt Lake and the Yellowstone regions upon the outward or return route. It is expected that terms of leaseholds for hotel sites in the Park will be extended from ten to thirty years, and that leases will be effected to responsible parties, and at least some hotels at prominent points of in- terest will be erected ; also, that a small steamboat upon the Yellow- stone Lake will be constructed during the coming season. Tabular statements concerning routes and trails will be found in the Appendix, marked F. CONCLUSION In closing this report I beg to state that my assistants, Messrs. Stephens and Yount, have efficiently and faithfully discharged their respective duties, and cheerfully rendered every assistance in their power in my endeavors to carry into effect the wise policy of the Department of the Interior with regard to the National Park. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 49 I also have to thank Mr. Chittenden, formerly of the Hayden survey, and Dr. W. J. Hoffman, of Washington, for elaborating some of the Hoodoo sketches made by Mr. W. H. Parker, who accompanied me in the exploration of the Goblin land. I am also indebted to Mr. W. H. map accompanying this report. Finally, I would be derelict in duty did I omit to express my thanks for, and high appreciation of, the unvarying kindness I have ever received at your hands and those of other officers of the department over which you preside. I am, very respectfully, your obedient servant, P. W. NORRIS, Superintendent Yellowstone National Park. 4 YP YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. APPENDIX. . A. REPORT OF GAMEKEEPER. GAMEKEEPER'S CABIN, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, November 25, 1880. Sir: The notice of my appointment by the Hon. Carl Schurz, Secretary of the Inte- rior, as gamekeeper of the Yellowstone National Park, with instructions to report to you as its superintendent for duty, reached me at Cheyenne, Wyoming Territory. I at once accepted, but as the unusually deep snows and floods in the mountains prevented my crossing them from that direction, I proceeded by the railroad and coach-route, via Ogden and Bozeman, reporting at the headquarters of the Park July 6, and entering at once upon my duties. My previous experience in the Park proved materially beneficial, as I knew the haunts and habits of the various animals and how to protect them froni wanton slaughter by the numerous tourists. Meeting the honorable Secretary of the Interior at the South Madison, near the southwestern corner of the Park, I accompanied him in his tour of its leading points of interest to the northeast corner at the cañon of Clark's Fork, where he left this region. Returning to the Mammoth Hot Springs I outfitted and proceeded, via the Great Falls, to the foot and thumb of the Yellowstone Lake, and thence in a nearly direct, route past Lake Riddle and a flat, open country, to Heart Lake at the foot of Mount Sheridan, some twenty-five miles from the Shoshone trail at the thumb of the Yellow- stone Lake. From Heart Lake I crossed over to Barlow Valley at the foot of the Red Mountain range near the southern border of the Park, finding deer and elk ir abun- dance, and some moose, and Heart Lake as well as all the cold streams teeming with extra fine trout and countless water-fowl. Upon my return trip I explored the region around Lewis and Shoshone Lakes, find- ing along their northern terrace an excellent route for a trail of easy construction. I also found an excellent gravelly ford of Snake River, some two miles below Shoshone Lake. Returning via the Yellowstone Lake and Falls to the Mammoth Hot Springs, I pro- ceeded with men and animals to construct a cabin for my winter quarters at a good spring on the terrace commanding a fine view of both the East Fork and the Soda Butte Valleys. Here I purpose wintering so as to protect the game, especially elk and bison, in their sheltered chosen winter haunts, from the Clark's Fork and other miners. I have, during the season, found elk, deer, and bear in all portions of the Park, antelope in most of the open regions, and moose in the willow beaver-swamps of the southern portion, and excellent trout in abundance in all the cold-water streams, ex- cepting the Yellowstone, where, as well as in the lakes, this fisb is infested with worms, and the Lewis and Shoshone, the waters of which, although remarkably cold and clear, are not inhabited by any species of the finny tribe. Much of the game in the Park occasionally ranges over some of the adjacent regions, endangering their slaughter in the constantỉy advancing border settlements. Hence I would strongly recommend that all portions of the Park be well protected, that the game may remain, increase, and much of it soon become domesticated. But this cannot be done by any one man, and I would respectfully urge for the purpose the appointment of a small, active, reliable police force, to receive regular pay during the spring and summer at least, when animals are liable to be slaughtered by tourists and mountaineers. It is evident that such a force could, in addition to the protection of game, assist the superintendent of the Park in enforcing the laws, rules, and regula- tions for protection of guide-boards and bridges, and the preservation of the countless and widely scattered geyser-cones and other matchless wonders of the Park. Most respectfully yours, HARRY YOUNT, Gamekeeper of the Yellowstone National Park. Col. P. W. NORRIS, Superintendent of the Yellowstone National Park. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, 51 . B. ACT OF DEDICATION. AN ACT to set apart a certain tract of land lying near the headwaters of the Yellowstone River as a public park. Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United States of America in Congress assembled, That the tract of land in the Territories of Montana and Wyom- ing lying near the headwaters of the Yellowstone River, and described as follows, to wit: commencing at the junction of Gardiner's River with the Yellowstone River and running east to the meridian passing ten miles to the eastward of the most eastern point of Yellowstone Lake; thence south along the said meridian to the parallel of latitude passing ten miles south of the most southern point of Yellowstone Lake; thence west along said parallel to the meridian passing fifteen miles west of the most western point of Madison Lake; thence north along said meridian to the latitude of the junction of the Yellowstone and Gardiner's Rivers ; thence east to the place of beginning, is hereby reserved and withdrawn from settlement, occupancy, or sale under the laws of the United States, and dedicated and set apart as a public park or pleasure ground for the benefit and enjoyment of the people; and all persons who shall locate, settle upon, or occupy the same or any part thereof, except as hereinafter provided, shall be consid- ered trespassers and removed therefrom. SEC. 2. That said public park shall be under the exclusive control of the Secretary of the Interior, whose duty it shall be, as soon as practicable, to make and publish such rules and regulations as he may deem necessary or proper for the care and man- agement of the same. Such regulations shall provide for the preservation from injury or spoliation of all timber, mineral deposits, natural curiosities, or wonders within said park, and their retention in their natural condition. The Secretary may, in his discretion grant leases for building purposes, for terms not exceeding'ten years, of small parcels of ground, at such places in said park as shall require the erection of buildings for the accommodation of visitors; all of the proceeds of said leases, and all other revenues that may be derived from any source connected with said park, to be expended under his direction in the management of the same and the construction of roads and bridle-paths therein. He shall provide against the wanton destruction of the fish and game found within said park and against their cap- ture or destruction for the purpose of merchandise or profit. He shall also cause all persons trespassing upon the same after the passage of this act to be removed there- from, and generally shall be authorized to take all such measures as shall be necessary or proper to fully carry out the objects and purposes of this act. Approved March 1, 1872. NOTE.-The boundaries of the Park have never been surveyed, but they are mainly crests of snow-capped basaltic mountains encircling the wonder-land of cataracts, cañons, fire-hole basins, geysers, salses, fumeroles, &c., unique and matchless, with an entire area from fifty to seventy-five miles square. RULES AND REGULATIONS. 1st. All bunting, fishing, or trapping within the limits of the Park, except for pur- poses of recreation, or to supply food for visitors or actual residents, is strictly prohib- ited; and no sales of fish or game taken within the Park shall be made outside of its boundaries. 2d. Persons residing within the Park, or visiting it for any purpose whatever, are required under severe penalties to extinguish all fires which it may be necessary to make, before leaving them. No fires must be made within the Park except for neces- sary purposes. 3d. No timber must be cut in the Park without a written permit from the superin- tendent. 4th. Breaking the siliceous or calcareous borders or deposits surrounding or in thə vicinity of the springs or geysers for any purpose, and all removal, carrying away, or sale of specimens found within the Park, without the consent of the superintendent, is strictly prohibited. 5th. No person will be permitted to reside permanently within the limits of the Park without permission from the Department of the Interior, and any person now living 52 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. within the Park shall vacate the premises occupied by him within thirty days after having been served with a written notice so to do, by the superintendent or his deputy, said notice to be served upon him in person or left at his place of residence. NOTE.-These rules and regulations are those adopted by the Hon. C. Delano, Secre- tary of the Interior, at the dedication of the Park.. D. APPEAL. To whom it may concern : Under the above law, rules, and regulations, and my peculiar circumstances of health, long acquaintance, and business interest in those regions, I have accepted the responsible, but as yet neither lucrative nor desirable position of superintendent of the Yellowstone National Park. Have appointed J. C. McCartney, esq., proprietor of the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, assistant until my arrival via the Yellowstone River route, which, I trust, will be in June, unless delayed by the Indians. Meanwhile, bona-fide occupants of buildings, bridges, mines, &c., will, by due regard for the above rules and the future interests of the public in the Park, be allowed quietly to remain. The outburst of national enthusiasm at discovery of the matchless wonders of the-fire-hole and geyser basins, amid the Rocky Mountains, secured their prompt dedication as a national park for the weary and worn business man, the tour. ist, and the scientist forever; also, provision for the appointment of a superintendent under proper rules and instructions, but not the necessary appropriations to reward the one for the enforcement of the other. My predecessor, Mr. N. P. Langford, did all that was proper to expect under the circumstances while in Montana, but with his return East all restraint ceased, and for fully two years, çareless use of fire, wanton slaughter of rare and valuable animals, and vandalism of matchless wonders have, as so truthfully published in letters of my- self and others, been doing irreparable injury in all the explored portions of the Park. Under these peculiar circumstances, in the interest of science and of the tourist now and in the future, the welfare and good fame of the people of Montana, Utah, and Wyoming in general, and especially to my old mountain comrades and friends, do I most ernestly appeal, to abstain; and use all influence in urging others to desist from future vandalism of all kinds in the lofty, romantic “wonder-land." With the closing of the Sioux war, the extension of the Northern Pacific Railroad, the opening of the Yellowstone natural route and the Big Horn Mountains for exploration of their vast gold and silver mines, an influx of sturdy miners and herdsmen will soon gather wealth, build towns, and open safe and convenient routes of access to this not isolated, little known, but matchless national heritage of wonders. That the spirit in which I write and act in this matter may extend to the press and the people of those mountain regions and the tourists who visit them is my ardent desire. P. W. NORRIS, Superintendent of the Yellowstone National Park. E. Weather record kept in the Yellowstone National Park during the season of 1880, at the Mammoth Hot Springs. (Latitude, 44° 59' north; longitude 110° 42' west; elevation, 6, 450 feet.] Temperature. Wind. Date. Sky. Snon Remarks. Noon. Sunset. Sunrise, Noon. Sunset. 1928. Gale. Do. 1880. January 1.. January 2.. January 3... January 4. January 5. January 6.. January 7.. . Cloudy ...do.... ...do Clear Cloudy ՄՄՄՄՄՄ Do. Do. ...do ... 30 l...do .. Do. Do. | Intermittent. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 53 Weather record kept in the Yellowstone National Park, fc.-Continued. Temperature. Wind. Date. Sky. Snow. Remarks Sunrise. Noon. Sunset. Sunrise. | Noon. 129. S Cloudy. ...do | Clear .. ...do ...do Gale. SE. 1 · 1880. Tapuary 8. January 9.. January 10. January 11. January 12 January 13. January 14 January 15 January 16. January 17. January 18. January 19 January 20 January 21. January 22 January 23. January 24 January 25 January 26 January 27. January 28. January 29. . SE. SE. SE. SE. ម៉ៅអៅទីអាំនៅមៅទៅវម៉ៅភ្នំzzzzz ... são ...do ...do Cloudy Clear Cloudy. Clear TIT 6 ==== Very little wind; Thermometer fell 26° in hour. | Calm. · 4 ...do ....... 12 .. do ....! = 40 . . . . . .. . January 30.......... January 31........... Average of January ... Mean ............. 18 Cloudy. SE. SX 2 SE. ONN ...do 22 18 ...do SE. SE. N. SE SE. Gale. SW SE S N. SW. SE. SE. S. SW. SW. NW. 2 SW. Ş Gale. 36 SW. NW Gale. AN 24 21 24 S. N. SW. SW ir SW. Gale. ...do ... February 1 February 2. February 3. February 4. February 5. February 6.. February 7 February 8. February 9.. February 10. February 11. February 12 February 13. February 14. February 15. February 16... February 17 February 18 February 19. February 20 February 21 February 22 February 23 February 24 February 25 February 26 February 27 February 28 February 29 Average of February - 12 Mean ........................ 2020202 SW. SW. SW. SW. SW sw. 1 . ...do ...do .. Clear ...do J...do. ...do .. ...do 28 Cloudy. Clear .. Cloudy. ...do .... ...do .... Clear ... ...do Cloudy. 30 Clear 24 ...do ...do 24 Cloudy. ...do .... 1...do .... Clear ... Cloudy. ...do 28 18 20 |-----| AIA orain 22 ...do .... SE SE. SE. SE. SE. SE. SE. NW. NW sw.) sw. SE. | SE. Flying snow. SE. NW. NE. . SU il SE. 12 Considerable snow on the ground; all the hollows full, with a very hard crust, sufficient to bear a horse up; heavy drifts on north side of hills; the pass on Geysers road almost level with snow. 54 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. Weather record kept in the Yellowstone National Park, 8C.-Continued. Temperature. Wind. Date. Sky. Snow. Remarks Sunrise. Noon. Sunset. Sunrise. Noon. Sunset. 1225. clou ST Flying snow. I do oo.. SE. SE. SE. SE. SE. NW SE NW. SE. Gale. ...do Rama N. S. SE. ...do. Clear ..do... NW. Cloudy SW. SW do SW. NW. N. NW. ND Clear SE: -do... Mercury frozeu. 1880. March1. March 2 March 3. March 4. March 5 March 6. March 7 March 8.. March 9. March 10 March 11 March 12 March 13 March 14 March 15 March 16 ... March 17 March 18 March 19 March 20 March 21 March 22 March 23 March 24 March 25 March 26 March 27 March 28 March 29 March 30 March 31 ...do ..do SÈ SE. SE. SE. ..do. Cloudy 30 Clear SW. 32 50 cuero *71 50 SW. 43 E. ថែទាំទីជមៅម ... S SE. S. S. 13 30 22 Average of March ..... Mean .......... * In sun. Weather record kept in the Yellowstone National Park, 80.-Continued.. Temperature. Date. Remarks. Sunrise. Noon. Sunset. 1880. 46 Clear. July 1..... July 2..... Do. 54 51 Do. Do. Do. 54 61 Do. 64 58 而肌肌肌肌肌肌肌肌肌肌肌肌肌肌配LL Do. Do. Do. Do. 54 July 10 July 11 July 12 50 SA Do. Do. Do. Do. July 13 Do. ....................................... July 14 July 15. July 16... July 17 Jaly 18.... July 19..... Do. Rain. Do. 68 | Windy. 61 l. 86 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 55 Weather record kept in the Yellowstone National Park, fc.-Continued. Temperature. Date. Remarks. Sunrise. Noon. Sunset. 1880. 70 Clear. Do. 09 Do. RU July 201 July 21.. July 22... July 23. July 24.. July 25. July 26.. July 27... July 28. July 29. July 30. July 31.. Average of July ........ Mean ...................... JULY 27.............................. Rain and hail. Clear. Showers. Clear. Rain. Showers. Do. Clear. Do. Rain. Rain and hail. Clear. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. 67 August 1........ August 2. August 3. August 4. August 5. August 6.. August 7.. August 8. August 9. August 10.. August 11. August 12. August 13. August 14... August 15. August 16. August 17... August 18 August 19. August 20. August 21. August 22 August 23. August 24 August 25 August 26. August 27.. August 28. August 29.. August 30. August 31... TIA 57 Do. Rain. Do. Do. Clear. Do. Do. Rain. Showers. Clear. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Rain and hail. K 50 52 44 35 50 68 64 Average of August..... Mean .......................... 56 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. Weather record kept in the Yellowstone National Paris, 8C.-Continued. Temperature. Date. Remarks. Sunrise. Noon. Sunset. lear. Do. Do. 44 64 75 78 Do.. 4 .78 100. 50 74 ......... Do. Do. 32 Do. Do. O . 1880. September 1................................................. September 2. September 3. •••••............... September 4. September 5... September 6... ..................................... September 7 September 8... September 9... September 10... September 11............................................... September 12. September 13. September 14. September 15. September 16. September 17 September 18. September 19. September 20 September 21 ...................................... September 22 September 23 September 24 September 25. September 26 ..................................... September 27 September 28 September 29. September 30. 68 Do. 6 72 44 Do. Do. Rain. Clear. - mo Oro Do. 68 Do. . 34 Do. 54 36 No Do. Do. Do. Do.. Do. Do. Do. Do. 30 . 15 58 Average of September..... Mean ........................... Clear. Do. 78 Do. Do. On T October 1... October 2.. October 3.. October 4.... October 5. October 6. October 7. October 8.. October 9. October 10 October 11 October 12. October 13 October 14 October 15. October 16. October 17. October 18... October 19. October 20.. October 21. October 22. October 23. October 24. October 25. October 26 October 27.. October 28.. oño o 62 Partly cloudy. Do, Do. Rain. Snow. Clear. Do. Do. Snow. Do. Do. Do. Misty, Clear. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Cloudy. Rain. Clear. Cloudy. Cloudy; snow in north. Clear. Do. Do. 60 66 55 55 October 29... October 30.. October 31. Average of October.. 157 42 Mean 44 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. Weather record kept in the Yellowstone National Park, 8C.-Continued Date. Sunrise. Noon. Sunset. Remarks. 30 40 29 24 28 28 26 20 40 36 36 32 Clear; wind southeast. Do. Cloudy; wind southeast. 26 | Clear; wind southeast. Do. Clear: wind southwest. Do. Cloudy; wind southwest. Cloudy. Cloudy; breeze southeast. Clear; breeze southeast. Do. Clear; wind southwest. 34 32 41 41 -50 Do. 34 November 1. November 2.. November 3.. November 4. November 5.. November 6.. November 7. November 8.. November 9... November 10. November 11. November 12. November 13. November 14. November 15, November 16. November 17. November 18 November 19. November 20. November 21. November 22 November 23 November 24. November 25. November 26. November 27. November 28. November 29. November 30.... . . 22 Cloudy; wind southwest. Cloudy: wind northwest. Do. Clear; wind northwest. Snow, heavy; wind northwest. Snow-squalls; wind northwest. Clear; wind south. Do. Do. Clear; wind northwest. Do. Do. Clear; wind southeast. Do. Clear; wind northwest. Snow-squalls; wind northwest. Clear days, 20. Heavy winds most of the month. 24 17 Average of the month .... Mean............. 15 ...... Remarks. Date. Noon. Sunset. Snowfall. Sky. Wind. ITIL | Sunrise. NW. NW. NW. Gale. Gale, Gale. | 12 inches... Cloudy. 18 inches... ...do .. 18 inches......do . 8 inches... ...do Clear.... ...do ...do Partly cloudy. Clear. ...do... __ ...do .. uuuuuu inch.. I...do .... December 1.. December 2.. December 3... December 4... December 5.... December 6. December 7.... December 8.... December 9.... December 10... December 11. December 12... December 13. December 14.. December 15.. December 16. December 17... December 18. December 19... December 20... December 21.. December 22.. December 23.. December 24... December 25... December 26... December 27.. December 28.. December 29.. December 30.... December 31.. ONCO 30 30 SE. SE. 17 inch.. Cloudy SW. Gale. 1 inch. NW. Gale. 1 inch..... SE. 2 inches... SE. 3 inches... SE. 2 inches... SE. SE. NW. 4 inches... NW. Gale. 3 inches... NW. Gale. 3 inches... SE. 2 inches... SE. 787 inches, or 19 cloudy days and 3 heavy 6 feet. gales. Gale. 26 TI 111 14 16 25 20 Average of the month... Mean.................. 58 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. · F. ROUTES IN THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. HENRY'S LAKE ROAD. Route. Between points. Total. Miles. Mileş. Henry's Lake Mail Station to- South Madison Station South Madison to- Riverside Station .... Lookout Cliffs Marshall's Park.... Forks of the Fire Holes Station.... లు - · MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS ROAD. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Forks of the Fire Holes to Lookout Terrace...... Forks of road.... Earthquake Cliffs .. Cañon Creek...... Falls of the Gibbon ...... Cañon of the Gibbon...... Head of Gibbon Cañon.. Monument Geysers and return... Geyser Creek ..... Norris Geyser Basin ... Norris Fork Station... Lake of the Woods Obsidian Cliffs ...... Willow Park.... Indian Creek.... Swan Lake ..... Rustic Falls. Terrace Pass... . . . .. . . . .. . 1 . . Mammoth Hot Springs Station... ROAD TO BOZEMAN. Mammoth Hot Springs to- Mouth of Gardiner River .......... Second Cañon of the Yellowstone. Cañon Gap. Bottler's Ranch ... Bozeman....... DBA Wor MADISON CANON ROAD. Forks of the Fire Holes to- Lookout Terrace......... Falls of the Madison...... Mouth of the Gibbon .... Gibbon, Fire Hole Basin, and return Foot of Madison Cañon ..... Riverside Station ....... WONA WC ROAD TO THE UPPER GEYSER BASIN. Forks of the Fire Holes to- Prospect Point.. Lower Geyser Basin .. Midway Geyser Basin ............ Upper Geyser Basin .... NOO. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, 59 Rou'es in the Yellowstone National Park-Continued. NED PERCE FORD TRAIL. M Route. Between points. - Total. In lian Pond to Pelican Valley ..... Ford of Pelican Creek ..., Nez Percé Ford of the Yellowstono os WC GRAND CAÑON TRAIL. Tower Falls to Forks of Washburn Trail ... Rowland's Pass... Sulphur Basin ..... Meadow Camp ..... Brink of Grand Cañon ... GO GO Mapaan Pantenut. Point......... 11 13 15 Great Falls of Yellowstone. TWIN FALLS TRAIL. Meadow Camp to- Head of Grand Cañon Safety-Valve Geyser...... Twin Falls on Yellowstone River... . .. . . . . . .. . . . .. .. . . . . . . . . .. . . . .. . awi SPRING CREEK TRAIL. Great Falls of Yellowstone to- Spring Creek Great Spring.. Cascade Creek... on sa FOSSIL FOREST TRAIL. Gamekeeper's Cabin to—. Foot of mountain ...... Summit of Amethyst Mountain.... Orange Creek....................... Sulphur Hills .... Forks of Pelican Creek........ Indian Pond ..... Lower ford, Pelican Creek .. Foot of Yellowstone Lake.. 1000000 . . . .. . . STINKING WATER TRAIL. Forks of the Pelican to- Summit of pass ......... Cañon through first range , ... TRAIL AND PROPOSED ROAD TO THE YELLOWSTONE LAKE AND FALLS. House in Upper Geyser Basin tom Cascades of the Fire Hole Rivers........ Norris Pass of the main divide...... Shoshone Creek, 2 miles from the lako. Columbia River and Pacific waters..... Two Ocean Pond...... Hot Springs on Yellowstone Lake . 1 X 2110WSTODO Lake ................... Cliffs on lake......... Bridge Creek Bay.............. Foot of Yellowstone Lake ..... or powernyi cic . 60 - . YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. Routes in the Yellowstone National Park-Continued. TRAIL AND PROPOSED ROAD TO THE YELLOWSTONE LAKE AND FALLS-Continued. Route. Between points. Total. Mud Volcano ... Sulphur Mountain Alam Creek Great Falls of the Yellowstone Return to Alum Creek.. Hot Sulphur Springs........... Mary's Lake .. Cold Spring Creek. Forks of the Fire Hole River .. MIDDLE GARDINER TRAIL. Q Mammoth Hot Springs to- The West Gardiner... Falls of the Middle Gardiner .... Sheepeater Cliffs..... Road to the Geysers .......... amar 1 voi TRAIL TO FORKS OF THE YELLOWSTONE. [ Mammoth Hot Springs to Forks of the Gardiner Lower Falls of the East Fork of the Gardiner ... Upper Falls of the Gardiner .. Cascades of the Gardiner ... Black Tail Creek ...... Dry Cañon or Devil's Cut. Pleasant Valley..... Forks of the Yellowstone Qrama 18. ST O T A wi MOUNT WASHBURN TRAIL. Forks of the Yellowstone to- Tower Falls ..... Snowy spur of Mount Washburn .... Dunraven's Pass.. Cascade Creek ...... Great Falls of the Yellowstone .... A WOW MINERS' TRAIL TO CLARK'S FORK MINES. Forks of Yellowstone to- Crystal Creek...... Amethyst Creek ..... Gamekeeper's Cabin... Soda Butte Medicinal Trout Lake ..... Smelter at mine Index Peak .... on wererer es (Cook City) :: ROUTE TO HOODOO BASIN. Gamekeeper's Cabin to- Sulphur Springs ....... Ford of Cache Creek. Alum Springs and return ... Calfee Creek ..... Miller's Creok ..... Forks of Miller's Creek.. Miller's Camp. Hoodoo Mountain ... VUILDO VIDO.................................... .. . . . . . . . . . .. . .. . . .. .. .. . . YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 61 RECAPITULATION OF ROADS AND TRAILS WITHIN THE PARK. Roads. Miles. Mammoth Hot Springs to northern line of the Park Mammoth Hot Springs to Cañon of East Gardiner.... Mammoth Hot Springs to Cañon of West Gardiner ... Mammoth Hot Springs to Forks of the Fire Holes Madison Cañon Road. Forks of the Fire Holes to west line of the Park Forks of the Fire Holes to house in Upper Geysers.... 18. So word Total length of roads ................ ....... 109 Trails. ....... ........ .... .... . .................. ................ .................. Nez Percé Ford Trail.... Grand Cañon Trail.. Twin Falls Trail Spring Creek Trail.... clark's Fork Mines Hoodoo Basin..... Fossil Forests..... Stinking Water... Shoshone and Yellowstone Lake... Middle Gardiner ..... Forks of the Yellowstone ..... Mount Washburn...... Nez Percé Ford ..., voor RA ...... .... ...... Total length of trails.. ...... 312 INDEX. .. . . . . . . . . . . ... Aborigine sof Park....... Act of dedication. Animals of Park. Antelope, prong-horned Appeal.. Bannock and Sheepeater Indians Badger ................. Bears .... Beaver....... Big-born sheep..... Birds of the Park....... Bison, or mountain buffalo... Black-tail deer ........ Boundaries of the Park.. Bridges......... Bridge, natural. Bridges, roads, and trails Burrowing moles... Cap, Liberty..... Chipmunks ....... ...... Climate of the Park..... Cold medicinal springs.... Cold pure-water springs....... Conclusion....... Cougar, or mountain lion.... Crow Indian treaty..... Dog Rock....... Dedication, act of....... Deer, black-tail.... Deer, white-tailed.. Elk.............. Explorations....... Fishes of the Park... Forests, fossil... Fossil forests............. Foxes ........ Gamekeeper, report of. Gallatin Range....... Gardiner River, trail and proposed road . Geyser and other springs ... Geysers, pulsating...... Gold and silver mines.... Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone.. Guide-boards ......... Habitations of white men within the Park. Headquarters of the Park, or Mammoth Hot Springs. History of the Park.... Hoodoo region ....... Hot, foaming, or laundry springs . Indian treaty, Crow ... Insects ............ Intermittent or spouting geysers. Laundry or hot foaming springs Lake Yellowstone ... Liberty Cap..... Madison Plateau ........... Mice..... Middle Gardiner trail..... Mile-posts and guide-posts... Moles, burrowing ............ Moose ..... 8-9 13 18 19 10-11 .......... 64 INDEX. Page. 38 41 15-17 35 38–46 47 1 . 47,58 .. 52-57 13 . 58-60 Mountain buffalo or' bison....... Mountain lion or cougar ........ Mount Stevens trail route ...... Natural bridge ... Objects of scientific interest..... Otter, mink, muskrat, &c ...... Park, aborigines of........ Park, animals of ... Park, climate of.... Park, boundaries of .... Park, fishes of.... Park, headquarters of, or Mammoth Hot Springs Park, history of .... Park, routes to... Park, timber of....... Porcupine ....... Prong-horned antelope Pulsating geysers .. Rabbits ........ Rats ............ Record of weather .. Recapitulation. of roads, &c Regulations and rules Report of the gamekeeper.. Reptiles ....... Roads, bridges, and trails .. Roads, recapitulation of ...... ROCK Dog.................... Routes in Yellowstone National Park .. Rules and regulations ....... Routes to the Park....... Scientific objects of interest .... Season's work, summary of .. Sheepeater and Bannock Indians Silver and gold mines ...... Sheep, big-horn ............ Skunks ........... Springs, cold medicinal.... Springs, cold pure-water .. Springs and geysers ........ Springs, terrace-building ... Springs, warm medicinal... Springs, warm mineral ........ Spouting or intermittent geysers Squirrels...................... Sulphur, alum, &C ............................................ Summary of season's work .......... Terrace-building springs .... ...... Timber of the Park ...... Trails, roads, and bridges....... Valuable deposits, sulphur, alum, &c ........... Warm medicinal springs............................. Warm mineral springs.................................... Water-craft of white men ................. Weather record ........ White inen, habitations of, within the Park...................... White men, water-craft of........ White-tailed deer.... Wolves ....... Wolverine ....... 51 47,58 15-17 3-6 .................. ............... ....... ........ ............ 20 O 43 ••- -•-••••••• 24 46 13 24 39 42 1 41 10-11 ... 11-12 Yellowstone Lake...... ••••• T - 2. W J . 2 se incil 722 .U67 _Ꭱ E Ꮲ 0 Ꭱ Ꭲ UPON THIC Yan 2 YW YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, TO THE . . . SECRETARY OF THE INTERIOR, BY P.W. NORRIS, SUPERINTENDENT. FOR THE YEAR 1879. a d zbekiston Ta' 1 han WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 1880. NA AR Ꭱ E Ꮲ 0Ꭱ Ꭲ UPON TAL YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, TO THE SECRETARY OF THE INTERIOR, BY P. W. NORRIS, SUPERINTENDENT. FOR THE YEAR 1879. WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 1880. . . ultral atingos W . --- KW SON . WY 114 RULE . kle LLL - . . TE . TIP E ST - V . . . I . .. PS CI - - 7 A .- . ' Mi 11 ! - . . . SA S -- X E YEV - S. GR - ... - - - . 2 OV VS PAN - -- BE - - este . din t h eiroshan and want do Z E UZUN 20 1 L i . 1. CO 2 D P --- - - os ou ETER .:- is ..:: X muy : . 7 N YN . Hall ... modelle uusimaa minister for de studentima . HA AVY . crkan I . TV ! TI . . O - ***.-... wall . ! 2 .. W OHIT painting 1 IN C Vry 21. YU 22 TEA * . X . A . 2 . 21 1XNEVYTV NA 2 IN NU W . . . DT . . . multi a . 111. X Arc NA PIN . RAH . VILI . KAI YA . NIM .. . L ' .- SKAL - JE 0 11 07 RE 1 . 1 . SHUI P tu C . 7 A . - . .. . 1 NA . 2 711 ! B . 19 . P . . . . . . 2 cy" 23 1 : *** . - 4 . ... : . . I. **. - I. EX WII .... 12 . .. 11 ... . 12 . . 4 . LA d TU . . 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SU . . - MX 283 Zu . . NH 2 . . Sara en . . OM TOTAM TA ROPE EK TY YMRY PS 1 ! . . 2 . . . . . . S '. . . 7 it VI? ST .. UNCA Whi 2 C . * he SU . VAS . Pau . ASR A i . TES E VIN UMZA SNN OV T . E ' P 1 . bir K 21.10. . AO" . 111S TOS9 . * *. Q 1 . 2. M .. . . VI TI ANN IL " VII. OTT li . e . 9 UA AR . . F .. . NO SS MEESTE SA TOK .? 11 si . ern: T F A . . . . Hi. RUNN SISSE " . SV V . 2 . NOVO! is EX 2: My " 2 w . . - rance a . i JE . ST tot LYS. . á. Basaltic Cliffs. b. Falls of the East Gardiner. c. Headquarters of Superintendent. d. Mt. Washburne. e. Liberty Cap. f. M.Cartney's Buildings. g. Devil's Thumb. k. Hot Spring Terraces. MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS,YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. WY. TER. REPORT UPON THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. WASHINGTON, January 16, 1880. SIR: I have the honor to submit for your approval, and for publica- tion, my third annual report of operations for the protection, preserva- tion, and improvement of the Yellowstone National Park, during the season of 1879. Vexatious delays and loss for want of various articles not obtainable near the park prompted my purchasing a steel reversible or side-hill plow, and other tools and implements, mainly in Detroit, and forward- ing them to Bismarck for shipment upon the first steamboat to ascend the Yellowstone River, myself following them from Detroit May 12. At Bismarck, fortunately failing to connect with the steamer Yellow- stone (which was lost upon that trip at Buffalo Rapids), I shipped with my outfit up the Missouri River direct to Fort Benton, and thence, after forwarding it by a freighter, pressed on via Helena to Bozeman. I there organized my field party with C. M. Stephens as assistant, and with wagons and horsemen pressed forward 80 miles, reaching the Mammoth Hot Springs, in a terrific rain and sleet storm, June 12, being just one month in making some 3,000 miles by the various modes of travel and circuitous route necessarily taken. The purchase of an excellent four-mule team, wagon, harness, &c., complete, some additional saddle and pack animals, and increasing my party to its maximum of thirty men, enabled me to speedily construct a rough log building upon the McCartney Creek for temporary use as storage and cook-room, and push inclosures for a pasture for the safety of our animals. In canvas wagon-cover wings to our house, several tents, and a lodge, we made ourselves as comfortable as possible during the remainder of the stormiest June which I ever experienced in the Rocky Mountains. This not only greatly retarded our operations in the park, but also seriously delayed and increased the expense of obtaining supplies, and rendered the roads to Fort Benton so nearly impassable that our outfit forwarded from there June 2 was only obtained by sending on other teams over 100 miles for it in the middle of July. As shown by the sketch of the Mammoth Hot Springs and vicinity, our headquarters is upon a commanding natural mound, in a deep shel- tered park of erosion, at the confluence of the three branches of the Gar- diner River. Each of these descends by a succession of rapids, cas- cades, and cataracts, in a yawning cañon through basaltic terraces, some 2,000 feet within a distance of 4 miles, and discharging through a similar cañon, in a like distance, to the initial point of the boundaries of the park at its confluence with the Yellowstone River just below its third cañon. A portion of the cañon of the main Gardiner, and all of those of the west and middle branches, are utterly impassable for even 4 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, a bridle path. The only routes, therefore, to and from our head yuar- ters-are, first, a very rough and difficult one, over two dangerous fords— now bridged—near the forks, and past a cascade and two cataracts upon the east branch to the forks of the Yellowstone-distance, 20 miles; second, over my road of last year up the dry pass between the hot-springs terrace and Sepulchre Mountain to the geysers--distance, 60 miles; and, third, by the old road, over the mountain spurs and rugged cañons, 6 miles to the Yellowstone River, and through its second cañon and Bozeman's Pass over the Gallatin Range to Fort Ellis and Bozeman's_distance 80 miles. The summit of a natural mound some 600 feet in length, 300 feet in width, and 150 feet high, sinoothly eroded for a carriage-way at each end, and a depression for a reservoir near the summit, after mature deliberation and sustained by the unanimous approval of the experienced mountaineers, I selected as the site for our block-house headquarters, where it fully commands the entire mound, valley, and terrace, within range of rifle or field artillery, and a fair view of the entire balance of the valley and all its approaches. The water from not only all the upper hot-spring terraces, but also the McCartney, Bluff, and other cold creeks, sinks in the open cone and cavern-dotted geyserite plateau around this mound, only to burst forth a fair-sized mill stream of hissing, hot, medicinal water, just below the surrendered McGuirk block and bath houses upon the main Gardiner, some 2 miles distant, and 1,000 feet below the foot of the active terrace springs. As the rim of towering basaltic cliffs along the main Gardiner and its branches, together with the ancient and active hot- spring terraces, so nearly inclosed our building mound, the McGuirk Springs, the road between them, and 15 or 20 square iniles of sheltered pasturage, that some two miles of feucing would complete the inclos- ure, the plan was unhesitatingly adopted. With pine, fir, and cedar material hauled from the ancient hot-springs terrace, a genuine Mon- tana fence, i. e., with posts sustained at an angle of some 60 degrees by smaller posts or legs through holes near the top, surmounted and faced by poles pinned or spiked horizontally upon them, was, through all obstacles, pressed to completion July 12, and in convenience and safety has not only already repaid cost, but is doubtless the largest and most sheltered, as well as romantic and valuable, pasturage for the cost of its inclosure now or ever owned by the nation in the mountains. Meanwhile we had planted an experimental garden of some half acre of potatoes, turnips, and other hardy vegetables, below the McGuirk Hot Springs, and by an occasional irrigation from them during the continu- ous dry weather after July 1, and some frosty nights after August 15, were far more successful in production than in protection from vandalism at a place so remote and hidden from our block-house, nearer which I have chosen and am fencing a site for our future hardy vegetable garden. The old sheep and Sheep-Eater Indian trail from the mouth of the Gar- diner River passed around the impassable portion of its cañon, then into and followed it to near the McGuirk Springs, and around the pine and cedar-clad border of the lower dry terrace and geyserite plateau to Liberty Cap; while the old wagon road wound around the basaltic spurs and terraces of Sepulchre Mountain, descending by a rough and danger- ous way many hundreds of feet to the same point at the foot of the active hot springs. These were, as before stated, the only routes from Boze- man, and they barely passible, with immense expense unavoidable to ever render either of them passable coach-roads, never convenient or safe ones, and hence I have expended little money upon them, but have YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. for years been improving every opportunity in exploring, examining,' and finally engineering a roadway across countless spurs and gulches along the mountain side midway between them. In this I finally suc- ceeded, and, without sharp curvatures, carried a line of easy grades for some 3 miles, and, with only a moderate amount of bridging, con- structed a road much shorter and in all respects superior to what could have ever been made upon either of the other routes at manifold its cost. This greatly facilitated the hauling of supplies and building ma- terial from Bozeman, and by hewing the timber and making the shingles upon the mountain terraces and hauling them to the site upon the mound, we had, during July, erected in first-class manner a block-house 40 by 18 feet, two tall stories high, with, for use as well as safety from mountain storms, substantial block-house leantos or wings upon three of the sides, and an 8-foot balcony to both stories of the other front- ing the active hot-spring terraces. Upon the main building is an octagon turret or gun-room, 9 feet in diameter and 10 feet high, well loopholed for rifles, and all surmounted by a national flag 53 feet from the ground, upon a fine flag staff or liberty-pole passing from a solid foundation through and sustaining all the stories, turret, and roof thereof. During these operations mall parties of horsemen, with pack-animals, had vainly sought for Indians or serious vandalism by tourists; but removed fallen timber and otherwise improved the road and main bridle-paths to the geysers, and in assisting tourists, some of whom had tunneled through huge snow-packs upon the spur of Mount Washburn in June, and in constructing a reservoir fronting our mound; we improved the last day of July in removal to our unfinished house upon it. Leaving my assistant, C. M. Stephens, with a small force laboring upon our house, I, upon the 1st day of August, with our main party of laborers and animals, and three wagons loaded with tools, tents, pro- visions, and other outfit, ascended the terrace pass upon our last year's road to the geysers, accompanied by some horsemen and one wagon-load of Idaho tourists. Innmense quantities of fallen timber were removed. culverts and bridges repaired, new ones constructed, and grades, espec- ially at Obsidian Cliffs, Norris Plateau, and Gibbon's Cañon, greatly widened and improved to the junction with the road to Henry's Lake and Virginia City, and similar improvements across the Gibbon, and through the upper cañon of the Madison to at least the western borders of the park near Taughees Pass. Through this I alone passed to the summer military post at the head of Henry's Lake and Hickman's camp of Virginia City tourists in the Red Rock Pass. Returning to my party. we improved the roads up the Madison and the Fire Hole Rivers to Mary's Lake and the Upper Geyser Basin; meanwhile the field party of Mr.P. J. Reeves for surveying the border-line of Wyoming and Montana had. under the guidance of a military escort from Fort Washakee in the Wind River Valley, unwisely left the Big Horn and Stinkingwater route as planned, and where I had guides awaiting them, and in attempting the Two Ocean Pass without guides became lost, scattered, and seriously delayed, and, though Messrs. Reeves, Dane, and McOrary, after weeks of toil, privation, and danger, succeeded in reaching the Mammoth Hot Springs via the Yellowstone Lake and Falls, still his escort and outfit became so bewildered and delayed in the swamps and tangled timber gulches near Bridger's Lake, that only the timely assistance of myself and scouts-Yellowstone Kelley, Johnson, and Manning-found and led them via Shoshone Lake to our camp at the Upper Geyser Basin. In this and other scouting expeditions much valuable knowledge was obtained of the precipitous densely timbered regions bordering the Yel- YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. lowstone, Hart, Lewis, and Shoshone Lakes upon both the Atlantic and Pacific slopes of the main divide, which at this point is peculiarly tortu- ous, but no direct route across it from the Upper Fire Hole Basin to the Yellowstone Lake. The evident necessity of such a route has, from the commencement of explorations within the park, led to greater efforts and more failures than any other trail seeking within it, and the discov- ery of such a ronte was one of the main features of my season's plan. Hence, leaving my party engaged in constructing a loopholed, earth- roofed log-house and other improvements in the Upper Geyser Basin, I, alone, or with only one scout, commenced searching for a route, during which I found the odometer left in 1873 by Captain Jones and Professor Comstock, upon the nearly vertical face of the main divide overlooking Shoshone Lake, where seemingly only Noah's Ark or Bridger's famous foraging crow would have ever left or be likely to remove it, and amid the dense snow-crushed, storm-twisted, knotted and gnarled thickets of the continental divide, traces of Everts, Hayden, and other explorers, but no practicable route across it, and returned to the Fire Holes. Thus baffled as had been all previous explorers, I, as a last effort, ascended the north bank of the Fire Hole River, past a succession of enchanting rapids, cascades, and cataracts, and after some days of ex- cessive exposure and hardship, and nights of sleepless cold and anxiety, was rewarded by more than hoped-for good fortune in tracing a chain of small mountain and timber-hidden parks, and lovely lakelets, to a nar- row timber-hidden, but deep, direct, and excellent pass, which within less than 2 miles crosses, or rather cuts, the main divide from the Fire Hole waters of the Atlantic to a sheltered grassy park near Shoshone Lake, and the spring and rivulet fountain-heads of the Columbia of the Pacific. With buoyant hopes I sought a similar pass in the opposite bend of the divide, but finding none nearer than Lewis Lake, I ascended it by a somewbat zigzag but not difficult route, and within 5 miles reached the summit near one of those crater-like ponds or noted Two Ocean Lakes, without outlet, and by similar grades descended the east- ern slope. Reached the Yellowstone Lake at the western end of its great thumb, near the hot spring terraced beach, famous as convenient for catching the large lake trout, and without changing one's position or re- moval from the hook, thoroughly cooking them in nature's boiling pots within one and a half minutes from the time they were sporting in the crystal waters of the lake, as I have for years by actual experiment demonstrated to the incredulous. Returning, I opened a trail from the cascades to Old Faithful, at the head of the upper Fire Hole Basin, there finding several parties of tourists. One of these, including the wife of Postmaster Taylor, Mr. McAdow, a prominent miller, and several youth- ful members of the families of General Willson and other leading citizens of Bozeman and the Gallatin Valley, is deemed worthy of special record; as, though many ladies had for years visited the geysers upon horseback, and the Smith and Woodworth party, with ladies, had recently visited them in wagons from Virginia City, these were the first ladies to reach Old Faithful by wagon upon our road from Bozeman, and who upon horseback—August 27—were positively the first ladies who, by any mode or route, ever visited the cascades of the upper Fire Hole River, 3 miles above Old Faithful. Leaving my excellent trainmaster, J. E. Ingersoll, in charge of the main party, with instructions to complete our building and then improve the roads in returning with the wagons to the Mam- moth Hot Springs, I, with six picked mountaineers and a small pack- train, opened the recently explored route an estimated distance of 10 miles to Shoshone Lake, and 12 additional, or in the aggregate 22 miles YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. from the Upper Fire Hole, twice across the continental watershed, to Yellowstone Lake. Thence I opened a trail, much of the way through fallen timber, along or near the western shore of Yellowstone Lake some 26 miles to its outlet, and improved the old one some 60 miles via the Mud Volcano, Sulphur Mountain, Great Falls, Cañon, and Forks of the Yellowstone, Mount Washburn, Tower Falls, and cañon of the East Gardiner, to our headquarters upon the mound September 7, finding our wagon train safely returned. Thus, after an absence for most of the party of 38 days of nearly continuous good weather and active and suc- cessful operations, without seeing an Indian or losing a man, and, from experience, using camp and pocket filters for bad or unknown water, but no alcoholic stimulants, all returned in excellent health, with no mishap greater than having some of our men and horses for a time lamed by scalding in the fire-holes, and having one of the latter, when thus crip- pled, devoured by grizzlies. Aside from a fair supply of bacon, trout from the cold springs, not mineral, the flesh of deer, elk, antelope, bear and other animals, and birds killed with the rifles, were our only, but excellent and ample, supply of animal food. The limited appropriation under my control not justifying continued employment of so large a party, I regretfully discharged many excellent men to whom, from jointly sharing toil and camp-fire, I had become greatly attached and whom I would gladly and profitably have retained. SCIENTIFIC SPECIMENS. During the entire season's operations I had carefully—often with great effort and hazard in cliff and cañon climbing-secured rare and interest- ing specimens from the various geysers and other hot spring formations, obsidian cliffs, fossil forests, and Sheep-Eater haunts, intended for the Smithsonian Institution and the Anthropological Society of Washing- ton, and other scientific associations. These, after carefully packing in five boxes, were securely bound with rawhide thongs, and in September, sent from the Gate of the Mountains upon the Yellowstone by some men who were returning from my employ to the States in a small Mackinaw boat. But, unfortunately, they were, in the unusual low stage of water, wrecked at the Buffalo Rápids; and, though it was reported that these specimens were landed, I have failed to obtain reliable information re- garding them, and greatly fear their total loss to science and the world. GUIDE-BOARDS. The original cost of lumber and added heavy freightage, nearly 80 miles from Bozeman, precluded the use of more than was absolutely neces- sary. But all fragments were carefully preserved, well dressed, painted white, and then black-lettered with the names of the most important streams, passes, geysers, &c., and tables of distances between them. These were carried by wagon, pack-train, or on horseback, and firmly affixed to rocks, trees, or durable posts, proving of great value to tour. ists throughout the park; but many more are needed. Leaving a small force building a corral and bridging the Gardiners near their forks, I, with the rest of the party, spent the remainder of September in improving the trail past the forks of the Yellowstone, 35 miles to the Soda Butte, and making a new one across Amethyst Mount- ain and the Fossil Forest, some 30 miles to Pelican Creek and the foot of Yellowstone Lake. Returned, outfitted, and having completed a very necessary bridge over Tower Creek above the falls, was actively open. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. ing a trail between the Grand Cañon and Mount Washburn when the unseasonably severe snow-storm of October 9 compelled suspension of im- portant field operation for the season, and, leaving some of our tools, we gladly pushed, in a terrific storm and through dangerous snow-drifts, to our excellent headquarters at the Mammoth Hot Springs. Although the snow soon melted in the lower valleys, and mainly so around our Hot Springs, still it continued too deep and the weather too stormy in all the mountain passes for profitable or even safe employment of labor- ers, and few were retained, the remainder of the autumn being spent in exploration of the park, including a thorough reconnoissance of the gold, silver, lead, and copper mines in the Montana portion of the park, in hauling our winter supply of provisions, forage, and fuel, and sketching and mapping our building site—the hot-spring terrace and surroundings. In exploring routes, and hunting, killing, and packing game into camp, often through dense thickets of fallen timber, fire-hole basins, or yawning cañons, the hardships, dangers, and exposure to broiling sun and biting frost, or lonely camp-fire in unknown snowy regions, were ever chosen as pastime by our mountaineers, and the attendant incidents of such trips, including the nimble dodge from a wounded buck, or hasty tree-climbing from a ferocious grizzly, forms the standing basis for camp-fire stories or legends of the days agone. Such romance and enjoyment this season was, for the first time in the park, unalloyed by Indian raids or serious accidents or mishaps; but, as of little general interest, seldom men- tioned in my reports or letters. But, of the animals killed during the past season, were some very large and fine elk, deer, sheep, and antelope, and a mountain lion, shot in the night to prevent his molest- ing our animals, which measured nearly 9 feet in length from lip whisk- ers to tip of tail, and the last of the six grizzlies killed by myself during the past season, was a remarkably large and fine one. A fine young horse, somewhat lamed by scalding in the fire holes, having been left near Obsidian Cañon, was killed by a grizzly, that, in devouring the car- cass and fragments of game killed in the vicinity, continued to haunt the place. In trailing him in snow nearly knee deep some weeks after- wards, I killed two large antlered elks, but a few yards apart, and, it being nearly night, I only removed their entrails and camped alone near them, confident that bruin would visit them before morning. I then found that he had dragged the elk so near together as to leave only a space for a lair of boughs and grass between them, which he was in- tently finishing, wben I, at a distance of 100 yards, opened fire with a Winchester rifle with fourteen ordinary bullets in the chamber and a dynamite shell-being all which I dared to use at once in the barrel. This I first gave him high in the shoulder, the shell there exploding and severing the main artery beneath the backbone. He fell, but instantly arose with a fearful snort or howl of pain and rage, but got four addi- tional ordinary .44 caliber bullets in the shoulder, and nearly as many falls before discovering me, and then charged. Hastily inserting an- other dynamite shell, I, at a distance of about 50 yards, as be came in, seụt it through his throat into his chest, where it exploded and nearly obliterated his lungs, again felling him; and as he arose, broke his neck with the seveuth shot. Either one of these would have stiffened any other animal, and surely have soou proved fatal to him; but deem- ing delays just then dangerous, I peppered him lively. Finding Ste- phens across Beaver Lake, we returned with our saddle and pack ani- mals, and after killing a pair of wood martens that were preying upon the carcasses, we dressed the animals, packing all possible of them 20 miles to our block-house at the Mammoth Hot Springs. We there found * YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. the hide of the bear just as spread out, without stretching, to be 8 feet long from tip of snout to roots of tail, and 6 feet 7 inches at its widest. place; and from his blubber brought in, Stephens tried out 35 gallons of grease or oil. Its extraordinary size is the only reason for at all men- tioning the animal in this report. As the geyser regions are nearly unknown in winter, I had constructed our comfortable log-house in the little grove between the castle and the Beehive Geysers in the Upper Fire-Hole Basin, with a good stone chimney and provided abundance of fuel, proposing to remain there, obtaining much valuable information and sketching them and the lake regions in winter, and during it returning via Henry's Lake to Cainas Station upon the Utah Northern Railroad. But finding the sulphur-charged condensed steam and fogs of the Geyser Basin were too suffocating to long endure, and that the unusual deep snows had seriously blocked the passes and gorged the Madison and other streams in their cañons, the project was reluctantly abandoned; and, returning to the springs, final arrangeinents for winter were made. I then left my ever-faithful and efficient assist- ant, C. M. Stephens; my son, A. F. Norris ; and J. Davis to occupy the house upon the mound, finish the upper floors and partitions during bad weather, and, when favorable, prepare for division-fences and bridges. for next season, make a snow-shoe trip to the geysers during the winter and carefully protect the game from wanton slaughter. As no white men have ever spent the entire winter at the Mammoth Hot Springs, it is not certain that more than the saddle animals, for which we have a corral and forage, could safely remain there, and hence the mule team will be partially wintered at Cedar Creek in the second cañon of the Yellowstone, in charge of some reliable men who will, as usual, there winter their own. I then proceeded to Bozeman, closed the season's outfitting business, provided for occasional mails to the men in the park, and thence to Beaver Cañon at the terminus of the Utah Northern Railroad, and via Ogden to Cheyenne. Thence, after pleasant interviews with Governor Hoyt, the present and the ex-Delegate, and other officers of Wyoming Territory, and also prominent railroad officials in Cheyenne and Omaha, in reference to railroad, post, and coach routes and other matters of interest to the park, took the usual railroad route of return. EXPLORATIONS. While, by the language of the act appropriating funds, as well as my instructions for its expenditure, protection and improvement of the Yellowstone National Park appear more prominent than its explorations, still, practically, considerable of the latter is indispensable for an intel- ligent and judicious performance of the former; the real danger, indeed, being a deficiency rather than an excess of knowledge of the local pecu- liarities of that wonderful region prior to expenditure upons buildings, roads, bridle-paths, and other permanent improvements. Yet with the small amount of funds under my control for the vast improvements neces- sary to enable the prominent men of our nation to conveniently visit and personally judge of its wonders, its necessities, and its management, I have pushed improvements, devoting less time and funds to exploration than desirable to myself, or, I fear, ultimately the most beneficial to the park. Still, our carefully kept records of weather, long observance of storms, earthquake shocks (of which there was only a slight one, during August of the past season), formations, eruptions, and decadence of gey- sers and other hot springs, changing terraces and other phenomenag.. rapidly accumulates valuable information of the local climate and pecu- 10 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. liarities, which, with oonstant vigilance in the management of foraging and other expeditions, steadily adds to our knowledge of the approaches to, and routes of travel throughout, the park. In addition to the ex- ploration of the new route down the Gardiner River, and the Shoshone route to the Yellowstone Lake, heretofore necessarily mentioned, others of interest and value have been made during the past season. As not before suspected, although within 3 miles of our block-house, the lower of the three falls of the East Gardiner has, like the famous Minnehaha, a clear safe passage between the sheet of descending water and the wall rock. In excavating for our cellar, on the mound near the Mammoth Hot Springs, we unearthed a circular deposit of several bushels of beau- tiful white bead-like shot or pebble specimens, some of which I have brought away to learn if they are the petrified eggs of some ancient rep. tile, or, as I am inclined to believe, the berries of juniper or cedar, doubtless long antedating those of Solomon, from Lebanon. RUSTIC FALLS. Another of the season's discoveries is a rustic fall upon the West Gardiner, near the summit of nature's rocky fence to our pasturage. This small snow-fed stream, from its bridge on our road to the geysers, flows quietly through a grassy margin in an open sage plain nearly a mile to its border, and then glides some 40 or 50 feet down a mossy rock, so smooth, so placid, and so noiselessly as to present to one stand- ing afoot or astride, as can easily and safely be done upon its very margin of mist-nourished ferns and flowers, a contrast unique and matchless, to the succeeding 1,500 feet of its dashing, foaming descent adown a yawning cañon waterway, in magnitude out of all comparison to that now flowing there. In the open valley above are the decaying lodge-poles of an old Sheepeater camp, and upon a timbered ledge over- hanging these falls, are decaying poles, driveways for game, and coverts for concealment in using arrows. CAÑON AND FALLS OF THE MIDDLE GARDINER. The main falls upon the middle, and far the largest fork of the Gardi- ner, has a clean vertical descent of near 200 feet, and the basaltic cliffs for miles tower nearly or quite vertically, often in church-like battle- ments and spires, from 1,000 to 1,500 feet above the foaming white torrent at the cañon's base, scenery second only to that of the Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone within the park, and seldom rivaled elsewhere. After several failures, I this season succeeded in finding a route along the terraced base of Bunson's Peak, overlooking this cañon. This, with little increase of distance, strikes our road to the geysers, some 7 miles from our block-house, a route well worthy of and, I cannot doubt, des- tined to soon be occupied by a tourist's carriage-way. . SHEEPEATER HAUNTS. This cañon, above as well as below the main falls, had been, by us, deemed inaccessible until during the early snows of last autumn, when - I, alone, in trailing a wounded bighorn, descended a rocky, dangerous pathway only, in rapt astonishment, to find, by the scattered fire-brands and decaying lodge-poles, that I had thus, unbidden, entered an ancient and but recently deserted, secluded, unknown haunt of the Sheepeater aborigines of the park. It was fully a half mile in length, some 400 feet at YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 11 its greatest width, and very much deeper, and so hemmed in and hidden by the rugged timber-fringed basaltic cliffs of a spur of Bunson's Peak, that accident, or the trailing of men, or, as I did, of animals, would have ever led to its discovery. Within it are terraces of ancient hot springs and crumbling cones of extinct pulsating geysers, similar to, only much smaller than, those of the Mammoth Hot Springs and Liberty Cap be- low; also some active hot springs. But it is mainly carpeted with short grass, dotted, fringed, and overhung by small pines, firs, and cedars, and with the subdued and mingled murmur of the rapids and cataracts above and below it and laughing ripple of the gliding stream is truly an enchanting dell; a wind and storm sheltered refuge for the feeble remnant of a fading race, who, from evident traces, have certainly hidden here since we have occupied the Mammoth Hot Springs in utter ignorance of their proximity, although less than 6 miles distant. As only with difficulty and danger horses can descend into this and similar . dells, or, for want of pasturage, long remain in them, as well as from the numerous pole drives for animals and bush screens for silent arrow shooting, often found in the park, it is evident that these harmless her- mits, these "wild men of the mountains," were, until very recently, destitute alike of horses and of fire-arms. The nearly as ragged as beaver-gnawing stone or obsidian knife and hatchet marks upon de- caying lodge and wickeup-poles, as well as upon ancient charred semi- petrified timber, prove they were also destitute of steel or iron tools and implements, and that, as we still do, they often used charcoal for fuel to avoid betrayal of their hidden camps by smoke; and the con- stantly discovered decaying evidences of lodge and wickeup or cliff- sheltered bush-houses, in the hidden glens and recesses of the mount- ains, indicate that, even recently, their numbers greatly exceeded the usual estimate of 100 of these peculiar people. Although so timid and harmless, when destitute of horses, fire, and other arms, and vices of white men, they have, with them, developed into as dexterous horse- thieves and dangerous cliff-fighters as any other clan of the Bannocks or Shoshones, from whom they seem to have been ancient offshoots, or occasional refugees. Indeed, it seems probable that some of the guides in Joseph's Nez Percés' raid, and certain that many of the Bannocks of last year, were native hermits. of the park, far less anxious for hair than horses, and their tell-tale guns, though more efficient, less safe than their obsidian-headed spears and arrows, not allowing them to remain there in concealment from our frequent and usually fruitless pursuits of them. But they have desperately fought the miners in the Salmon River Mountains during the past season, and only our well- known preparation for their obtaining more lead than horses, and the summer military camp at Henry's Lake, prevented their seriously an- noying tourists within the park. CROW INDIAN RESERVATION OR CONFLICTING BORDERS. From the foregoing sketch of the Sheepeater Indians, it is evident that they who so silently vanished without a contest for possession or a treaty for the cession of their ancient haunts were ever a harmless race of cliff-climbers, dwellers in caves, in lodges, or in bush-wickeups, in secluded parks and glens of the mountains, and nearly destitute of horses and fire-arms, while even those called Mountain Crows-as dis- tinct from those upon the Missouri-have long been well supplied with both horses and fire-arms; are splendid horsemen, crafty horse-thieves, and able, determined warriors, in defense of their hereditary buffalo 12 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. range upon the plains and valleys of the Bighorn and the Yellowstone below the mountains. Hence, the natural and ever-recognized border of these clans was the elevated, remarkably rugged, unbroken snowy range from near Pilot Knob through the great bend of the Yellowstone to its first cañon, or gate of the mountains. This range the Crows seldom crossed, never occupying the slope toward the park or claiming owner- ship, save as under the conditions of a treaty with them made at Fort Laramie, May 7, 1868, when, doubtless for convenience in an unknown region, the Yellowstone River was followed up to its crossing of the 45th parallel of latitude, and thence eastward along its between the Territo- ries of Montana and Wyoming as its southern border, and including some of these Sheepeater lands. Upon this portion of the Crow Reservation were the well-known Emi- grant Mines, the owners of which continued to be viewed and treated by the Crows as they were received in 1864, not as intruders, but as welcome friends and allies against their common foes, the Blackfeet, Sioux, and other hostile Indians, and have never been molested. The miners upon the Bear and Crevice guiches, and subsequently those of Soda Butte and Clark's Fork, also upon the Sheepeater lands, like those of Emigrant, have never been molested by the Crows, and like them, with seeming reason, claim the want of original ownership and continued immunity from molestation by the Crows as acquiescence by them in the miners' rights or claims. March 1, 1872, or nearly four years after this Crow treaty had been confirmed, the Yellowstone National Park was dedicated, fixing its northern border, not on the 45th parallel or upon the southern line of the Crow Reservation, but, in ignorance of where that line would really prove to be, fixing the confluence of the Yellowstone and the Gardiner Rivers as the initial point. This complication of rights, boundaries, and jurisdiction becoming more evident with occupancy and management of the park, I, after two ineffectual efforts in my annual reports for a remedy (see pages 9 and 10 of my report of 1877, and page 9 of that of 1878), addressed a letter as follows: : WASHINGTON, D. C., February 18, 1879. SIR: I have the honor to respectfully present the following reasons for the speedy survey of the boundary line between the Territories of Wyoming and Montana. First. Those usual for judicial and other purposes for contiguous regions. Second. For the protection and management of the Yellowstone National Park, es- pecially at its headquarters and main route of access to adjacent settlements, mining camps, tourists, and trappers, evidently difficult, if not impossible, without its bound- aries at that point, and the operations of its necessarily anomalous rules and regula- tions being known by all parties. Should this Territorial line be found not identical with that of the park as now dedicated, it will be near enough for all practical pur- poses until further legislation can make it so, thus obviating much present and future complication and expense. Third, and perhaps most pressingly important, fixing the southern border of the Crow Indian Reservation. As the Crows are, and ever have been, our firm friends, as well as valuable allies upon several recent critical military occasions, the necessity is evident and urgent that the proposed border line be soon run, to prevent the threat- ened incursion of white ranchmen upon the Big Horn and Little Horn Rivers, the finest game, grazing, and agricultural portion of their reservation (where alone they can ever be concentrated and civilized), and for want of which proposed line there is certainty of grave and costly complications and danger of a future Indian war. Most respectfully, yours, P, W. NORRIS, Superintendent of the Yellowstone National Park. Hon. J. A. WILLIAMSON, Commissioner of the General Land Office. This letter was promptly indorsed by the honorable Commissioner of the General Land Office, of Indian Affairs, and Secretary of the Inte- YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 13 rior, submitted by the Speaker of the House of Representatives, an appropriation made for its survey, and the western and most important portion completed by Mr. R. J. Reeves before winter. This survey clearly shows that the park, as dedicated, einbraces a 2-mile strip of Montana, which, from the crossing of the Yellowstone River easterly, had been for nearly four years embraced by the Crow Indian Reserva- tion, and also, as just shown, mainly occupied by miners, who had quietly dispossessed the original Sheepeater owners, and under their claims of possession are steadily proceeding in development of the mines by prospecting, organizing mining districts and companies, sink- ing shafts, constructing arastras and smelting-works, and purchase and sale of property as openly as in any other mining region of our country, and doubtless interesting distant capitalists who are mainly ignorant of these complications of jurisdiction and ownership. Unquestionably treaties should be solemnly observed, or by mutual agreement promptly modified, and laws strictly enforced until properly repealed; and in this case, where the real priority of rights and jurisdic- tion is so evident and rival interests so diverse in character and pur- poses, it is hoped that an amicable adjustment of them all can in due time be effected upon the following basis: First. By changing the northern and western boundaries of the park, as recommended in the boundary section, so as to conform to those of Wyoming Territory, thus at once severing an unnecessary 3-mile strip upon the west, and also the 2-mile strip of mining region upon the north, and leaving the park clear of an antagonistic mining population, questions of jurisdiction, and its two most important boundaries run, well marked, known, and recognized by all parties, without cost to the park. Second. By honorable treaty with the Crows, obtain a recession of the old Sheepeater mining portion of the Great Bend of the Yellowstone above the Gate of the Mountains, by satisfactory remuneration if neces- sary; for though, as above shown, not theirs originally, or ever by possession, yet it surely is by honorable treaty, and although less liable to lead to hostilities than where the parties oftener meet along the river, still unrestraiped license, even under seeming palliating circumstances, upon one portion of the reservation invites trespass elsewhere, and with the sensitiveness of the Crows from wanton encroachments along the river below, may, from a spark in the mines, kindle a flame only quenched in innocent blood. Hence, for an honorable adjustment of these various conflicting claims of priority of title and of jurisdiction in behalf of private rights and national development, and in the interest of humanity towards the Crows, who, despite isolated individual acts of violence for plunder or revenge, have as a tribe ever been our true friends; for the safety of the industrious pioneers upon the border and their innocent families, who are usually the victims in Indian wars ; for the security of government agents and property, as well as of tourists within the park, I feel the necessity of urging the above or other mode of adjustment, and also prudence, forbearance, and conciliation by all · parties interested, pending negotiations for its consummation. ANCIENT AND RECENT MAMMOTH SPRING TERRACES. Some early scientific visitors of these regions believed that the match- less terraces at the Mammoth Hot Springs were formed by limestone precipitated in the still waters of an ancient lake, and there horizontally stratified. But this theory was soon supplanted by the evidently correct 14 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. one, that they are wholly formed by deposits from hot-spring waters issuing from the funnels of long, tortuous escape-vents of a huge, deep- seated fissure in the carboniferous limestone, and thence along its line of contact with the more recent cretaceous, tertiary, and lava deposits, to where their elevated edges are eroded by the forces which carved the yawning cañon of the Gardiner River, as well as those of its three branches, and the eroded park-like valley at their confluence. As this newly-centered and all-powerful internal pressure was mainly through carboniferous limestone, the dissolving of the walls and enlargement of water-clogged vents or orifices, and consequent building up of cavernous terraces, resulted in not only filling up the cañon gorge of the West Gardiner, but actually building a mountain barrier two miles broad, connecting Sepulchre Mountain with Bunseu's Peak, forming an ele- vated lake, the main outlet of which was for a time around the latter into the Middle Gardiner at the Sheepeater Cliffs. From the plateau summit of this Terrace Mountain the lime-charged hot waters, at the period of their greatest power, descended in pulsating throbs over its rapidly- forming, beautifully-white, calcareous, scollop-bordered bathing-pools, with terraced slopes nearly 1,000 feet to the mountain lake above, and fully 3,000 feet to the cañon of the main Gardiner River below. Along or near the latter are the various McGuirk Springs, certainly the largest in that vicinity, but their waters are not lime-charged and terrace-build- ing, but medicinal-deemed valuable for rheumatism and similar dis- eases-although a portion of them are perhaps somewhat connected with the sinks of the terrace springs above. But to this accepted, and doubt- less mainly correct, theory of the waning power and continuous down- ward march of the focus of the modern terrace-building springs, there is abundant evidence of secondary or independent agencies at some re- mote period, heretofore unrecorded, if indeed thoughtfully observed by scientists, to which I invite their candid investigation. For fully one mile along the main Gardiner River, near the McGuirk Springs, always one and often both of its banks are bold terraces or eroded cavernous cliffs of ancient hot-spring deposi:es, clearly revealing their laminated structure and central orifices or cones, and overlooked by the now pine and cedar fringed lower terraces, aggregating nearly one thousand feet in elevation. The southern portion of these are now shattered or eroded into galleried halls, hidden grottoes, or tottering columns, and balustrades, unique, unrivalled, and incomparable save to the crumbling ruins of an ancient temple. At a more recent period the geyserite plateau from the head of these lower terraces was a huge pool or shallow lake of foaming hot water, dotted with fumaroles, salses, and pulsating geyser cones like the Devil's Thumb or Liberty Cap. The base of the latter and nearly all of the former, and an unknown portion of the upper end of this plateau, are now covered by the descending upper terraces, through many portions of which the not decaying but semi-petrified steam and storm abraided tops and trunks of pine or cedar forests.still protrude. The still visible portion of the geyserite plateau, for fully a mile in length and one- fourth of a mile wide, sounds hollow and cavernous to the tread of men or animals, and is dotted with yawning, often dwarf-timber fringed sink-holes, or crumbling basins of extinct geysers and other hot springs, of all dimensions to one hundred or more feet in diameter and fully half as deep, after exhibiting beautiful stalactite formations. In one of these conical sinks a huge antlered elk sought a covert, probably during a drifting snow-storm during the past winter, and by the sudden settling of the snow-pack became entrapped by its overhanging walls and YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. perished from the effects of poisonous gases or starvation, and only by the use of ropes were the finest pair of horns which I ever saw obtained. But, unlike all other known extinct geyser or other hot-spring forma- tions, this plateau and the upper portion of its lower terrace borders bear no evidence of waning power or dwindling supply of water or of deposits, and comparatively little of age, crumbling, or erosion, all seeming as though the powerful operating forces or agencies had been brought to a sudden and permanent suspension. Believing that for effects so evident, so anomalous, and geologically recent, the cause was neither remote or unfathomable, I have for years been upon the alert for. a clue, and perhaps obtained it. The once seething, now pine, fir, and cedar fringed plateau summit of the Terrace Mountain affords from its near 9,000 feet of elevation a view of not only one of the most beautiful and romantic of earthly landscapes, but also matchless opportunity for tracing the evidences of the successive operations of molten lava, seething, calcareous, hot, and escaping tor- rents of cold water and the eroding outline-rounding effects of the frosts and storms of a sub-alpine climate. The terraced slope of at least the upper half of the lower or northern and eastern sides of this mountain are now covered with a dense growth of small but beautiful cedar, pine, balsam, and red fir timber, the upturning of which uniforınly reveals ancient terraces and bathing pools with scallop borders, in form and coloring as beautiful, and from being purer limestone harder, and often sharper cut outlines than those now forming thousands of feet below them, and thousands of years more recent. The western and equally steep slope shows upon its grassy surface not only the abrading effects of the prevailing storms, but also, upon at least its lower portion as well as upon that of Bunsen's Peak, unmistakable traces of ancient shore lines of the mountain lake. To the south is the yawning cañon of the West Gardiner, torn along the line of contact of Bunsen's Peak and Terrace Mountain by the escaping waters of this mountain lake, which by undermining precipitated enormous land-slides from each. A search for animals upon hundreds of acres of our eroded valley pasturage below this cañon gorge will require sufficient climbing over and among the rocky debris of these enormous mountain slides to con- vince the most superficial observer of their reality and the clear-cut sky-line of the white cliffs, so noted a landmark for many miles, even from the mountains beyond the Yellowstone, are only the nearly 1,000 feet vertical face of the marbleized calcareous hot-spring formations of the Terrace Mountain still remaining. That while this Terrace Moun- tain was the only barrier between the mighty pressure and lashing waves of the mountain lake, a portion of its waters at an elevation of some 3,000 feet above McGuirk's Springs, less than four miles distant, should, after the focus of internal pressure had in its waning power descended below that of the lake, percolate either through its calca- reous formations or along the unconformable line of contact of this Terrace Mountain, with one or both of those abutting it, seems very probable. If this be true we have a ready solution of the question as to. the cause of the enormous deposits along Gardiner River, the Geyserite Plateau, Liberty Cap, and other geyser-cones, fumaroles and salses, and in cutting off the supply of water by drainage of the mountain lake, the evident cause of the sudden and final suspension of activity in all of the springs thus supplied. Additional support of this theory is found in the boggy lakelets of the West Gardiner Valley, above this cañon, and notably along our road near the Terrace Pass. This portion of it dis- charges, not to the West Gardiner, but from very near it in the open val- 16 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. ley, still drains into a marshy pond or shallow lakelet so hidden in a notch of Terrace Mountain that upon my first exploration of it, when returning from the Fire Hole regions (1875), I was greatly surprised to find a smooth, dry, elevated pass along the line of contact with Sepulchre Mountain instead of a ragged cañon waterway, as at the other flank of the Terrace Mountain. That this pond is the reservoir for a small quantity of water still percolating beneath this pass seems probable, and that the volume of water in the now active terraces, and at least the upper McGuirk Springs, varies with the seasons and supply is too evident to doubt; but the connection or sympathy of the supply of water above and its discharge below the mountain, although probable, is not fully established by continuous observation and record. Should it become so, important.results may soon follow. As from personal ob- servation I believe the West Gardiner can be easily and cheaply turned from its cañon out of the side of Sepulchre Mountain into the little lake so as to render it a permanent supply reservoir, it becomes a problem of great scientific interest and practical importance to learn, if possible, whether the supply of internal heat and power be still ample and the subterranean connection sufficient to increase the power actively and consequent amount of deposits in any or all of these hot spring terraces and pulsating geyser cones, and renewal of their ancient beauty; or, perchance, only to enlarge the subterranean channel to the great spring on the Gardiner River, and thus hasten the descent and perhaps ex- tinction of the still active terrace springs. Deeming the responsibility of thus forming a mountain reservoir too great to assume without fur- ther observation, consultation with practical scientists, and, perhaps, careful experiments, the subject is dismissed with the earnest hope that these candid statements and suggestions may lead to thorough scien- tific research and beneficial results. OBSIDIAN MOUNTAIN. I this year traced the mountain of obsidian or volcanic glass from where I discovered it last year, at Beaver Lake, to a branch of the Gib- bon, below the Lake of the Woods, a distance of some eight miles, prov- ing that it is there the true divide of the waters of the Missouri and the Yellowstone, and also a vast weapon and implement quarry for the ancient hermit Sheepeaters. GEYSERS AND OTHER HOT SPRINGS. The new crater which burst forth in the Norris Geyser Plateau, with such upturning and hurling of rocks and trees, August 11, 1878, and was for the remainder of last year a high crater of hissing gas, steam, and mud, seems this year to have settled down to business as a very powerful flowing geyser, having, in common with many others, a double period of eruption, oné some 30 feet high about each half hour, and another of nearly 100 feet and long continued, each six or seven days, and is doubtless still changing. Countless hot springs and some important geysers were this season discovered on this plateau and its mountain rim, and enough red pulsating geysers in its upper cañon of the Gibbon to justify a tourists' trail through it. In fact, this geyser region seems to occupy some 20 or 30 square miles, being not only the largest and most elevated, but probably oldest and once most important, of any within the park. It is apparently also the hottest, not only from the thermometer readings, but its effects upon persons crossing them; and while the other YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL l’ARK, basins were, in November, enveloped in chilling, suffocatitig fogs, with more than two feet of snow upon Mount Schurz, between them this, though shrouded in steam and mist, was wholly clear of snow, grass luxuriant, and the streams and ponds, not too hot, alive with ducks, geese, swan, pelican, and other water-fowl. The second largest of the great midway springs, which last season, unwitnessed, certainly exhibited the greatest geyser-eruption of which we have any evidence, was, this season, as pre- viously, not only a seething lakelet with a huge outlet of hot water, but its denuded margin and remote border of water-hurled rocks unmistakably proves it the prince of geysers when semi-occasionally aroused. I have neither personal or other satisfactory evidence that the Giant or Giantess exhibited a full old-time eruption during the past season, and though such may have occured, and for a time may continue at long, uncertain intervals, still I incline strongly to the opinion that they, as well as the Lion and others, have passed the period of their greatest power, and will be slowly, but surely, supplanted by others. Old Faithful, though still the favorite geyser, has certainly lost prestige by an occasional prolonga- tion of its intervals between eruptions of from five to fifteen or twenty minutes during the extreme dry weather of the past season; but whether it is temporary for want of water, or permanent from change of supply fissures or other cause unknown, time alone will determine. The route from Old Faithful to the Yellowstone Lake will render ac- cessible the hot springs upon the latter and upon the Upper Fire Hole River, above the cascades, and, with a short line of bridle path, those of the Shoshone, Lewis, and Heart Lakes; while the Pelican Creek route connects its sulphur basin and those of Turbid Lake with those of the famous medicinal springs upon the Soda Butte. LL PLACID WARM STREAMS. Few of the anomalous features of this land of wonders are of greater scientific interest or of more practical value than the placid, uniform water-flow in its hot spring and geyser-fed rivulets and streams. While the Black Tail, Tower Creek, various branches of the Gardiner, and other cold snow-fed streams, are, as in other mountain regions, bold, dashing torrents, subject to terrible ice gorges and overflows; the main Gibbon and its geyser-fed branches, all the Fire Hole Rivers and the Madison from its head, at their confluence, to where its waters chill below the upper cañon, are alike dotted with grassy meadows in their chan- nels, covered with floating bubbles and clear of ice gorges and floods. True, an able and esteemed scientist, in his exploration of these regions, queried if the peculiar appearance of timber in some of the Fire Hole valleys was not evidence of occasional severe floods; but careful and continuous observation leads me to the conclusion that the penetrating, semi-petrifying effect of local overflows, or capillary infiltration of tim- ber, from many of the hot mineral springs is, and has ever been, so great that even standing timber may long outlast the eruptions and even accompanying springs. But I fail to find evidence of recent wide- spread overflows, by either hot or cold water, of the main streams in any of the hot-spring valleys. Although these mineral waters are all in elevated snowy regions, mingled with the cold mountain torrents, and are really rapid streams with an occasional cascade or cataract, yet an observant tourist will at once note their broad, shallow, grassy channels, uniformly smooth banks, with a dense growth of short grass and flow- ers, carpeted to the water's brim, and total absence of bayous, mud- banks, driftwood, or other evidence of overflowing waters. Thus the 2 NP 18 YELLOITSTOVE NATIONAL PARK. stretches of long flowing grass and occasional hot-spring pools in the channels and the actually overhanging turfy banks are usually the main obstacles in crossing these streams; and hence the cutting of a sloping way through the turf usually forms an excellent and permanent ford. thus greatly reducing the necessity for bridges. In fact, long limber poles and foot-logs, only a few inches above the low stage of water in several of these streams along our road to the geysers have thus safely remained during two seasons, and even poles, levers, and hand-spikes by us left last year at the very water's brink are still there undisturbed. Even the Cibbon, in its great cañon, through a snowy range and uni- formly very rapid, averaging at least 100 feet wide and knee deep, with two cascades, has the ever interesting feature of countless, buge, often pine and cedar clad mountain bowlders, so eroded at the base by this impetuous, changeless volume of warm mineral water as to appear like inverted sugar loaves or buge fossil eggs, erect upon their smaller ends, tottering, and ultimately overturning into the stream to renew the pro- cess—peculiarities never observed elsewhere, and in fact impossible in the ever changing surface of cold water streams. FOSSIL FORESTS. The explorations of each successive year greatly add to our knowl- edge of the known area, the magnitude and the marvels of the fossil forests of the Amethyst Mountain, East Fork, and Soda Butte regions. There the slow but ceaseless erosion of the frosts and storms of an Alpine clime expose bas-relief views of gigantic trees standing—except the front roots and branches-just as they grew, or lying as crushed and buried in the now towering cliffs of basaltic lava, and the storm- strewn fragments of primeval forests containing opal, onyx, or chalcedony caskets of brilliant amethyst and other crystals, unique and priceless, eagerly sought and carefully preserved in the cabinets and the museums of every civilized land. NOTABLE RELATIVE POSITION OF VARIOUS HOT SPRING REGIONS. TOL I have never heard a word or read a sentence upon the subject, but : iny constantly increasing knowledge of the geyser and other hot spring regions renders more evident the notable relative location of the various basins, terraces, and plateaus. Careful observance of any good map of these regions will show: 1st. That the interesting Geyser Basin at the southwestern extremity of Shoshone Lake, the Lone Basin, 5 miles above Old Faithful, and the Upper, Midway, and Lower Basins upon the Fire Hole rivers, the Gib- bon Basin and Norris Plateau upon the Gibbon, the Obsidian Cañon and Mammoth Hot Springs upon the Gardiner, and the immense deposits of nearly extinct hot springs at its confluence with the Yellowstone and along Bear Gulch, comprising far the largest, most interesting, and im- portant chain of thermal springs in the park, or the world, trend for a distance of fully 60 miles, in one of the roughest of earthly regions, in scarcely a perceptible variation from an air line. 2d. That said line is one of longitude, or nearly due north and south. 3d. That the hot springs in the lower two caſons of the Yellowstone, and at Emigrant Gulch between them, Hunter's and other hot springs along or near Shields River, and the famous White Sulphur hot springs on the Mussel Shell, are nearly a direct extension of said line some 150 miles northward. 4th. The numerous active and extinct hot springs along Snake River YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 19. and Jackson's Lake, near the Three Tetons, are an extension of the same line 50 miles south of it, making fully 250 miles of mostly continuous and direct line of geysers or other hot springs, with the Oneida salt and the famous soda springs on the old Emigrant road, near Bear River, 100 miles farther, with only a slight deflection southwesterly, passing in all through portions of Montana, Wyoming, Idaho, and near the borders of Utah. 5th. The outlying hot spring regions do not usually diverge, as roots or branches, from the main line, but uniformly in nearly parallel lines therewith and with each other, as those of the Yeilowstone, Cañon Falls and Lake, including the Sulphur Mountain, Mud Volcano, and Heart Lake; another forms the Soda Butte, Pelican Creek, Turbid Lake, and Steamboat Point line of hot springs and sulphur basins. I cannot doubt that a brief examination of maps and candid ponder- ing over these coincidences will, with most thoughtful men, develop the conviction that these were not the effects of mere chance, but the result of some deep-seated cause or influences. But I am not advancing theories, only recording facts deemed well worthy of able scientific investigation. Although there is now no unexplored portion of the park large enough to hope for the discovery or probability of the formation of other exten- sive geyser basins, still each individual spring and geyser is slowly but surely changing, and countless numbers will yet be found and formed, to long encourage the explorer, and none can foresee a period of time when geyser eruptions will cease, the desire of thoughtful men to yiew them wane, or the study of their causes and character fail to be of ab- sorbing interest to the scientists of every land. ROADS AND BRIDLE PATHS. This season's explorations clearly show an excellent trail and fair wagon-route from the foot of Yellowstone Lake via the east fork of Peli- can Creek to the Stinkingwater Pass, towards the Big Horn Valley, doubtless destined to become a summer route of access to the park from all those regions, as soon as occupied by white men, and ultimately for the most of Wyoming Territory, in which the park is mainly situated. Much of interest was this year learned of the region toward the Two Ocean Pass and Wind River Valley; but nothing to justify present ex- penditures upon a route mostly through impenetrable forests or snowy passes, totally uninhabited and mainly without the park. The Pelican Creek route, from the Soda Butte to the foot of Yellowstone Lake, al- though passable for a trail, and possessing much interest as traversing the fossil forests and sulphur basins, is still too elevated to anticipate a road in the near future. Few trails or roads anywhere, for its length and cost, will possess the present or future interest of that past the Great Cañon and falls of the Middle Gardiner River. Careful and continuous observations from all the surrounding land- marks confirms my conviction that the route which I explored late last year, overlooking the Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone through the east- ern spurs of Mount Washburn, instead of over it, near the summit, as at present, is the true one, for either bridle-path or wagon-road, and only untimely snows prevented the completion of a trail there the past season. It has not been deemed advisable to attempt to open the Great Cut- off Pass, which I explored in 1877, from the east fork to the main Yel- lowstone, via the Stillwater, until there are fewer Indians and more white men along it. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. - BOUNDARIES OF TIE PARK. The earnestness with which I have constantly urged the survey of the boundary line between the Territories of Wyoming and Montana is fully justified by its results. As anticipated, it has greatly assisted in restraining lawlessness within and adjacent to the park, and in check- ing the influx of ranchmen upon the southeastern border of the Crow Indian Reservation and determining the true location of the mining camps across the Yellowstone, from the main portion of the park where the Crow Indians seldom go, never remain long, or molest white men. This boundary survey of Mr. R. J. Reeves also clearly shows, that while the mines and smelting works at the head of Clark's Fork and Soda Butte are within the park (unless east of it), all of them, as well as those of Crevice and Bear Gulches, are wholly in Montana. In fact, it is as anomalous as fortunate that while Montana embraces all the mines of gold, silver, lead, and copper yet prospected or likely to ever be found within the park, so near the territorial boundary is that between the metamorphic mineral-bearing rocks and the igneous or lava and hot spring formations, that Wyoming embraces every geyser or other hot spring, hot spring terrace, cone, or cavern, obsidian mountain, fossil forests, or other wonders or objects of interest for which the park was dedicated, and is or ever will be desirable. With the proverbial un- certainty of mining camps, those which now appear moderately promis- ing may not prove permanently successful; but beyond question there is sufficient mineral of various kinds to encourage continuous pros- pecting, and a mining population with tastes, habits, and organizations so directly antagonistic to the necessarily peculiar laws, rules, regulations, and management of a national health and pleasure resort, that compli- cations alike unpleasant, unprofitable, and unsafe for all parties will be únavoidable and constant; while the unnatural and unnecessary ap- pendage of a less than 3-mile strip of Montana Territory remains attached to the park, otherwise situate wholly within the Territory of Wyoming. Hence, as in my previous reports, and the conflicting boundary section of this, I again urge the now more evident and urgent necessity of chang- ing the northern and western boundaries of the park so as to conform to those of Wyoming; my thorough explorations clearly showing that there are no wonders adjacent to it upon the west, and hence (as above stated) that it embraces all which is desirable to retain within the park. This would also give us the two most important lines already established, marked, well known, and recognized by all parties, without cost to the park, and by placing it wholly within one Territory simplify its present and future management. Two brief sections comprising the act dedicating the Yellowstone National Park contain (save two appropriations of $10,000 each for its protection and improvement) all the legislation to be found regarding it. (See Revised Statutes of the United States, p. 453.) That it was a wise and timely act, conferring enviable fame upon the scientists who planned, the Congress which passed, and the President who ratified it, enduring benefit to the people, and glory to the nation own- ing this peerless heritage of wonders, few intelligent men of our own or of other lands will now question. But, like other hasty acts of legisla- tion in an emergency, time and experience have revealed its omissions and its defects, rendering evident the necessity for slight changes in the boundaries of a then mainly unexplored region, and also additional legis- lation to render plain and practical the requisité discretionary powers of the honorable Secretary of the Interior and his superintendent in en- YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 21 forcing their necessarily anomalous laws, rules, and regulations for the proper management of the largest, most interesting, and important, doubtless soon the most popular, health and pleasure resort upon our globe. During the past season Mr. N. W. Comfort and wife safely drove a team with trail wagon and 400 head of cattle from Oregon via Henry's Lake and our road through the park to the Lower Yellowstone Valley, and we had the use of two milch cows at the Mammoth Hot Springs of J. Beatie for the summer pasturage of his herd of some 300 cattle upon the Black Tail. Vandalism of the inimitable geyser and hot spring formations is greatly checked, and with an active, faithful assistant at our house in the Upper Geyser Basin during the greatest influx of tourists each season and the desired laws and local assistance will, I trust, leave little future cause of complaint. PROTECTION OF ANIMALS. So with indigenous animals. I have not allowed the killing of bison, and so checked the wanton slaughter of elk, deer, sheep, and antelope, mainly for their pelts and tongues, by the mountaineers, that, although growu shy of the usually harmless fusilade of tourists along the main routes of travel, I have, save near the Mammoth Hot Springs, seldom failed to find in secluded parks near our roads abundance of game for our largest parties. But as the flesh, if not dragged down and devoured by bear, wolverine, or mountain lion, will keep perfectly, hung up un- salted in the forest, for at least two weeks at any season of the year, there is little wasted, and I am confident these choice animals have increased, rather than diminished, in numbers within the park since my management thereof. But with the rapid influx of tourists and demand for such food this cannot long continue, and hence the more evident and pressing necessity for systematic and permanent protection of all, and domestication of some of the most rare and valuable of animals in the eastern portion of the park by the assistance of the lessees of, hotel and ranch sites, as so clearly stated and strongly urged on pages 11, 12, and 13 of my report of 1877, and again on page 10 of that of 1878. In this connection it is gratifying to find that the intelligent members of the legislature of Montana, at its last regular session, enacted the follow- ing law: AN ACT to protect bison in certain counties in Montana Territory. Be it enacted by the legislative assembly of the Territory of Montana : SECTION 1. That any person who shall willfully shoot, or otherwise kill, for the period of ten years from and after the passage of this act, any buffalo or bison, with- in the counties of Madison, Jefferson, Deer Lodge, and Lewis and Clarke, Montana Territory, shall be fined not less than one hundred dollars nor more than two hun- dred dollars, or imprisoned in the county jail not less two months and not more than six months, or both such fine and imprisonment, at the discretion of the court. SEC. 2. That the possession of the green hides, or the dead bodies, or any part thereof, of any buffalo or bison, by any person, or persons, within the liinits of said counties, shall be taken as prima facie evidence that such person, or persons, are guilty of killing the same. SEC. 3. Any person informing on any person violating the provisions of section one of this act shall, upon the conviction of such person, be entitled to one-fourth of the fine collected. SEC. 4. It is hereby made the duty of the judges of the district courts held in the respective counties of Deer Lodge, Jefferson, and Lewis and Clarke to give in charge to the grand juries of said counties the provisions of this act. SEC. 5. This act shall take effect and be in force from and after its approval. Approved February 21, 1879. 22 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. If the sagacious leading gentlemen of that thriving Territory deem it necessary and feasible to thus supplement ordinary stringent game laws to preserve a remnant of the buffalo and bison that so recently grazed in countless millions upon the nutritious pasturage of their plains and valleys, should not we make systematic efforts for their protection in the park? If these legislators rely upon such enactinents and enlightened public sentiment to save from extermination the remnant of these animals scattered through their elevated mining camps, surely the strong arm of the government, through the honorable Secretary of the Interior and his superintendent and assistants in the park, backed by the lessees of hotel sites, sustained by the united influence of the leading thoughtful men of our own nation and sympathy of the scientists of other lands, should in the native haunts of the reinote lake, cliff and cañon girt fossil forest por- tion of the people's health and pleasure park, the nation's peerless won- der-land, by protection of all and domestication of a portion, perpetuate specimens of these and our other most beautiful, interesting, and valua- bleindigenous aniinals when elsewhere found only in the natural histories of extinct species. SUMMARY. From the foregoing statement of the season's operations, it is evident that by making an early start the park was reached by the slow.circuit- ous route necessarily taken, a strong party organized, and improve- ments commenced in good season. That the month of June was the stormiest ever known in those re- gions, all of July, August, and early September continuously beautiful, and so dry as to allow extensive forest fires in all those mountain re- gions; but owing to the ceaseless vigilance of our men in seeing to their camp-fires as well as those of tourists, less damage was done within the park than around it, or than has there heretofore occurred. During the otherwise beautiful autumn were several severe storms of snow, which during October became too deep in the elevated passes for profitable prosecution of improvements, which were, however, continued in the valleys, as far as the limited appropriation of funds at my command would justify, until late in November, and still continued in favorable weather by the three men left well housed, provisioned, and equipped for winter in our block-house at the Mammoth Hot Springs. The excessive rains of June were utilized in grading the thus softened mountain spurs down the Gardiner, and the continuous fine weather fol- lowing improved by continuous prosecution of explorations and im- prorements with most gratifying results. TOURISTS. Tourists, including many ladies and children, from various portions of Montana and Idaho, traveled our roads and bridle-paths with their own carriages and wagons or saddle and pack animals. Also, mainly with guides, pack-train, and escort, Generals Sackett and Hazeni, Major Brisbin, and many other military gentlemen from our own Army and those of Europe; Messrs. Thompson and Cadwalader, of Pennsylva- nia; Buckland, of Ohio, and other prominent railroad officials; Profes- sor Geikie, of Scotland, and other noted scientists; Capt. W. S. Jolin- ston and J. J. Broom, of New York; Hobson and Zeigler, of Iowa, and other prominent gentlemen and ladies from various regions, aggregat- ing at least 1,000 persons, safely visited and returned from the park during the past season. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 23 The unanimous opinion of all of those I saw or have learned their views was, they were richly rewarded in novelty, enjoyment, scientific knowledge, and health for their hardships, privations and expenses, and many of them pledged to return with friends upon completion of shorter, cheaper, and more convenieut routes of access to the wonder- land. These are now rapidly approaching, not only by the extension of the Northern Pacific Railroad westward towards the Yellowstone River and steamboats in ascending it, but more notably by the extension of the Utah Northern Railroad from Ogden, nearly 300 miles, through portions of Utah and Idaho, via Pleasant Valley Pass of the Rocky Mountains, into Montana. From the nearest approach of this road at Camas Creek, in the Great Snake River lava plain, there is a good, well-traveled road for 60 miles, via Shotgun Pass and Henry's Fork, to its lake, at the head of which the small military summer's camp last season proved, as I have long urged, a perfect protection to the park from Indian raids through this matchless gateway of the mountains. Thence it is some 20 miles of fair road-the five good fords of the Madison in its upper cañon being the main obstacles-to the junction of our roads within the park. It is only 15 miles thence to the Upper Geyser Basin, and present terminus of the road in that direction ; but by following the trail this year opened, and which I deem vitally important to complete as a road next year, it is some 100 miles additional, via Shoshone and Yellowstone Lakes, Mud Volcano, Sulphur Mountain, Great Falls, head of Grand Cañon, Mary's Lake, and Lower Geyser Basin, to the junction, and 45 miles additional along our road to the Mammoth Hot Springs. Tourists may thus, in a coach trip of some 250 miles from the railroad, reach and make a circuit of the leading wonders of the park and easily view the remaining objects of interest by short branching roads or bridle-paths.. Tourists can then have a choice of returning direct by the junction and Henry's Lake to Camas, or by coach 76 miles to Fort Ellis and Bozeman, and some 200 miles additional coaching to steamboats upon the Yellowstone. It is also very desirable, for purposes within and without the park, that a road be constructed without lelay through the cañon of the Eust Gardiner and the forks of the Black Tail to that of the Yellowstone, and a heavy and expensive bridge over the main stream, as the old rotten and dangerous Barronette foot-bridge, without approaches for wàgons, is the only way for reaching the East Fork, Amethyst Mountain, and Soda Butte portions of the park, or the smelting-works and mining- camps of Soda Butte and Clark's Fork. A road connecting this route via Tower Falls, Grand Cañon, and Great Falls of the Yellowstone, with the Mary's Lake route at Sulphur Mountain is very desirable, but too rough and expensive to hope for more than a bridle-path in the im- mediate future. With an appropriation sufficient to complete these improvements within the park next season, not only are these railroach and steamboat facilities assured by a line of coaches through the park, connecting them, but also propositions from able and desirable parties for leasing sites and speedy construction of commodious hotels, bath- houses, and other conveniences at the Mammoth Hot Springs, Geyser Basins, and other points of greatest interest. There are now pending propositions for a hotel site at the Mammoth Hot Springs, foot of Yellowstone Lake, and for a steamboat upon the lake, and also a hotel and bathing-houses at the Cold Soda Butte Medicinal Springs, traditionally famous for marvellous cures of jaded and saddle- galled horses and sick or wounded Indians, and now little less noted ainong the roving mountaineers as second only to the Arkansas Springs "24 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. as a specific for the same diseases. As the lessee of at least the Soda Butte site should also be a keeper of the wild and the domesticated animals indigenous to the park, and several if not all of the other lessee government agents within certain prescribed, districts, to check vandalism and assist the superintendent in enforcement of necessary laws and regulations for the proper management of the park, great care and delib eration are requisite to secure parties of known responsibility, integrity, and other qualifications to thus assist in retaining intact the natural scenery, animals, and wonders of the park, properly construct and conduct hotels for the accommodation of tourists, and keeping the property insured against fire, to ultimately revert to the government for releasing. This assures immediate coach counection with civilization), convenience for tourists, and ultimate self sustaining character of the park, in a shorter time and at less expense than ever promised, or even anticipated, by the most enthusiastic friends of the peerless wonder-land. P. W. NORRIS, Superintendent of the Yellowstone National Park. Hon. CARL SCHURZ, Secretary of the Interior, Washington, D. C. APPENDIX. Weather record kept in the Yellowstone National Park during the scason of 1879, mainly at the Mammoth Hot Springs. Latitu le, 44° 59' north; longitude, 1100 42' west; eleva- tion, 6,450 feet. -- Location. Date. Sunrise. Noon. Sunset. --- Remarks. Mammoth Hot Springs 58 57 있 ​i 1879. June 12 Juno 13 June 14 June 15 i June 16 June 17 June 18 June 19 June 20 June 21 Juno 22 June 23 June 24 June 25 June 26 June 27 June 28 June 29 June 30 54 | Rain and sleet storm. Cloudy. Cloudy, and sleet squalls; NW. 55 Cloudy. Fair, but gusts of wind Sw. Fair. Rainy. Heavy winds. Clear. Showery from the NW. Clear. 46 Showery from NW.. Do. 50 Do. 50 Heavy rain-storm; NE. Clear. 60 Showery; ST. 50 Rainy day; NW. Fair days, 6; prevailing wind NW. 50 50 Do. - - - 43 i - ---- Average of the 18 days taken in June.' Mean ...... - - - - Mammoth Hot Springs ........ • ..- July July 60 - - * . .th July Jul . e 10 OT HAWN " Clear; ice in a. in. Clear. Do. Clear; wind SW. Clear. Do. Do. · Do. Do. Clear; wind SV. Clear. Cloudy; wind SW. Cloudy. Do. Fair. Showery; thunçler; wind sw. Jul Jill 59 . YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL 25 ATIONAL . PARKPARK.. . Weather record Icept in the Yellowstone National Park, fe.-Continued. CI. Location. Date. Sunrise. Noon. Sunset. Remarks. Mammoth Hot Springs ... 1879 17 ย ) J1 JI 75 I 81 Clear. Do. Do, Do. Clear; wind S. Clear. Showery; NW.; mercury foll 14" in one hour. 86 JU 68 Clear. July July July OX 601 Do. Do. 60 Fair. 70 Cloudy; wind SW. Clear"; wind SW. Clear. 73 Do. 63 Fair days, 23; prevailing wind SW. 10 July 30 July 31 Average of the month..: 80 Mean............... Mammoth Hot Springs ........ Aug. COCO 78 75 Clear. Do. Do. Do. Cloudy. Cloudy; showers. Showers. Clear. Do. 75 79 82 86 70 Do. 84 70 Do. 06 72 65 70 70 So oo oo oo ooo ooo oo oo oo oo oo oo oo so se ao bote Rain ; NW. (lear. Clear; SW. Rain; SW. wind. Rain. Clear. Rain. Clear. at Do. 73 UO. TA Clear. 74 48 70 Showery; SW. wind. 70 Showery. 70 Rain; NW. Clear; NW. 50 Clear. 58 Do. 69 Clear days, 24; prevailing wind SW. 65 Average of August.-s..... 74 Mean. AUGUST—EN ROUTE TO THE GEYSERS. Terrace Pass ....... Willow Park ..... Aug. Aug. A11 Aug. Aug. 60 Clear; wind SW. Do. 60 Do. Showery; NW. Clear; šW. Showers ; SW. Clear; SW. Aug. Aug. dug. Aug Do. Do. Obsidian Cañon...... Beaver Lake Lake of the Woods ..... Norris Plateau............ Mount Norris.... Gibbon Cañon ............ Mount Schurz ................... Average of 16 days en route. Mean.... SOS 28098 Au Aug. 11 Aug. 12 Aug. 13 Aug. 14 Aug. 15 Aug. 16 SW. Snow-squalls on mountain; NW. Clear; $w. Fair; sw. 51 | Snow.squalls; NW. 54 Clear days, 11 ; snow, 2; wind SW. Do. 43 73 57 26 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK.. Weather record kept in the Yellowstone National Park, fc.-Continued. Location. Sunrise. Date. Locabudhe. Noon. · Remarks. Şunset. Mammoth Hot Springs ...... 1879. Sept. Sept. 2 Sept. 3 Sept. 4 70 Sept. 5 Sept. 6 Sept. 7 | Sept. 8 Sept. 9 Sept. 10 Sept. 11 Sept. 12 Sept. 13 Sept. 14 Sept. 15 Sept. 16 Sept. 17 Sept. 18 Sept. 19 Sept. 20 Sept. 21 Sept. 22 Sept. 24 Sept. 25 Clear. Do. Do. 68 Shower; NW. vind. 50 Clear; $w.wind. Snow-squall; NW. 70 Clear; $w. Rain. 50 Snow; frost at night; NW. Frost at night; NW. Severe frost; ÑW. Do. Severe snow; NW. Clear. 45 Clear; SW. 51 Clear. 50 Do. Do. Do. 51 52 60 / Not kept. 58 Sept. 23 61 61 Sept. 26 40 Sept. 27 Sept. 28 Sept. 29 Sept. 30 153 Clear days, 15; prerailing wind SV. Average of September. ... Mean ... Mammoth Hot Springs ........ 40 Clear; NW. wind. 45 Clear. 50 Snow.squalls. Home Do. 35 37 37 Snow 2 feet deep. $0 2 Suow-squalls. 32 20. Wiliow Park ........ Noiris Plateau..... Gibbon Caion ..... Geyser Basin ...... Oct. Oct. Oct. Oct. Oct. Oct. Oct. Oct. Oct. Oct. 10 Oct. 11 Oct. 12 Oct. 13 Oct. 14 Oct. 15 Oct. 16 Oct. 17 Oct. 18 Oct. 19 Oct. 20 Oct. Oct. 22 Oct. 23 Oct. 24 Oct. 25 Oct. 26 Oct. 27 Oct 28 Oct. 29 Oct. 30 Oct. 31 East Fire Hole ......... 26 Severe snow-squalls. 22 Mad Volcano ..... Sulphur Mountain.. * 20 25 28 33 20 30 Cañon Creek...... Obsidian Cañon..... Willow Park ..... Mammoth Hot Sp: 34 Clear. Do. Do. Do. 27 $0 32 Average of the month ..... Mean Mammoth Hot Springs .......... Nov. 1 Nov. 2 Nov...3 Nov. 4 Nov. 5 Nov. 6 30 Prevailing wind W.; cloudy and snowy most of the month. Do. 41 Clear; wind sw. 40 Clear; SE. 48 40 Clear; E. gale. Snow, SE.. Do. 491 32 | YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. :: 27 Weather record kept in the Yellowstone National Park, Sc.-Continued. . Location. Date. Sunrise. Remarks. Noon Sunset. 1879. Mammoth Hot Springs ...... Nov. 7 22 C 21 35 30 38 21 20 21 NUOMO OSSA 28 26 22 34 Nov. Nov. 9 Nov. 10 Nov. 11 Nov. 12 Nov. 13 Nov. 14 Nov. 15 Nov. 16 Nov. 17 Nov. 18 Nov. 19 Nov. 20 Nov. 21 Nov. 22 Nov. 23 Nov. 24 Nov. 25 Nov. 26 Nov. 27 Nov. 28 Nov. 36 Clear; SE. Snow; SE. Clear;.SE. Snow-squalls and SE. galc. . Snow; SW. gale. Snow; sw. Snow-squalls; gale in p. m., SE. Snow; gale SW. Snow-squalls SE. Clear; wind SW. Clear; W. Clear; wind SE. Clear; SE. Clear; wind SE. Clear; SE. Clear; wind SW. Clear; w. Clear; wind SE. Snow; SW. gale. Snow-squalls; SW. gale.. Do. Do. 34 · 50 54 40 32 Do. Nov. Tel S B Average of the month .. 31 Snow-squalls; SE. Clear days, 13; balance of month mainly gales; wind SE. Mean ......... Mammoth Hot Springs .... Dec. Dec. Dec. Dec. Dec. Dec. Dec. 000 Dec. Direction of wind, E. 34 Snow; SE. 34 2 inches snow; SE. and NW. 1 inch snow; SE. 20 Do. 2 inches snow; ESE. gale. 22 3 inches snow; ESE. gale. 6 3 inches snow; NW. gale. Clear; south. 8 Do. 10 | 41 inches snow; SW. gale. 8 55 inches snow; gale. 4'inches snow; NW. gale. 9 3 inches snow; NW. Clear; NW. gale. Clear; SE. gale. 1 inch snow; SE. gale. Clear ; SE. SW. gale. Clear ; SW. gale. Do. 12 inches snow; SE. 15 inches snow; SE. gale. 14 inches snow; SE. Cloudy; SW. 20 SE. gale. Dec. Dec. Dec. Dec. Dec. Dec. Dec. Dec. 16 Dec. Dec. 18 Dec. Dec. Dec. Dec. 16 2 2 Dec. 23 Dec. 24 Dec. Dec. Average of the month ....... Mean ................... 1266 inches snow; clear days, 6: pre- vailing wiud SE.; gale, 14 days. 1 | 14 The above records strengthen my previous impressions that the park is for its eleva- tion less a severely cold than a moist and stormy portion of those mountain regions, save during a short but beautiful summer. But with the hoped-for instruments and assistance from the Signal Serviee, we may safely rely upon a greater knowledge and more satisfactory showing of the climate of the park in the next annual report. ROUTES AND DISTANCES TO TIIL YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. . Assuming Chicago to be the general point of divergence for the great Northwest, ro:ates and distances are properly estimated therefrom. The main routes of access to the park are still the so:thorn, or railroail, and the - 28 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. northern, or river routes, both of which, as indicated in my report of last year, have been materially improved and shortened during the past season. As no route within the park or any of its trail or wagon-road approaches have ever been measured, the distances, as given of them, are only careful estimates. SOUTHERN ROUTE. Between points. Total. ------ Miles. ............... Miles. 493 1, 031 241 l 1, 524 1, 765 Chicago via various railroad lines to Omaba.... Union Pacific Railroad to Ogden....... Utah Northern Railroad to Camos .. Wagon road and perhaps coach line during the season: Camos to Shotgun Pass.... Henry's Fork ..... Livermore's Camp ... Henry's Lake..... Taughee's Pass of main divide .. South Fork of the Madison ... West line of the park ......... Cañon of the Madison to mouth of the Gibbon .... Junction of road to Mammoth Hot Springs ............ MAIA ero OI O NORTIIERN ROUTE. 878 1, 003 Chicago via various railroad lines to Saint Pau North Pacific Railroad to Bismarck..... North Pacific Railroad to the terminus Coach to Yellowstone River Steamboat to mouth of Big Horn ......... Coach to Bozeman ............. Coach to Bottler's ..... Coach to north lino of the park .. Çoach to Mammoth Hot Springs ..... 409 469 125 125 130 205 40 1, 128 1, 507 1, 258 7. 463 1,537 30 1, 573 11 1 . . ROUTES WHOLLY WITHIN THE PARK. ROAD TO THE GEYSERS. Headquarters at Mammoth Hot Springs to Terrace Pass ..... Rustic Falls on tie West Gardiner .... Indian Creek .... TVVillow Park ...... Obsidian Cliffs. Lake of the Woods .... Norris Geyser Plateau.. Goyser Creek ........ Monument, Geyser Basiu .... Lower cañon and falls of the G Canon Creek ......... Junction with the southern route. Forks of the Fire Hole Rivers.. Lower Geyser Basin ... Midway Geyser Basin.. House in Upper Geyser Basin .. A NAJNOW Co . Ora home or o . .. . . YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 29 TRAIL AND PROPOSED ROAD TO THE YELLOWSTONE LAKE AND FALLS. Between points. Total. Miles. Miles. House in Upper Geyser Basin to Cascades of tbe Fire Hole Rivers........ Norris Pass of the main divide...... Shoshone Creek, 2 miles from the lake.. Columbia River and Pacific waters ..... Two Ocean Pond..... Hot Springs on Yellowstone Lake .... Cliffs on lake........... Bridge Creek Bay.... Foot of Yellowstone Lake ... Mud Volcano ..... Sulphur Mountain ..... Alum Creek ..... Great Falls of the Yellowstone Return to Alum Creek Hot Sulphur Springs......... Mary's Lake .......... Cold Spring Creek ... Forks, of the Fire Hole River Q100 mm MIDDLE GARDINER TRAIL. Mammoth Hot Springs to The West Gardiner... · Falls of the Middle Gardiner .. Sheepeater Cliffs ... Road to the Geysers ... WOGA TRAIL TO FORKS OF THE YELLOWSTONE. Mammoth Hot Springs to Forks of the Gardiner ..... Lower Falls of the east fork of the Gardiner Upper Falls of the Gardiner Cascades of the Gardiner .... Black Tail Creek"... Dry Cañorr or Devil's Cut.. Pleasant Valley... Forks of the Yellowstone... 1860 C1OO OT A WI MOUNT WASHBURN TRAIL.. Forks of the Yellowstone tom Tower Falls.... Snowy spur of Mount Washburn. Dunraven's Pass Cascade Creek..... ............ Great Falls of the Yellowstone .. HA A WoW .. GRAND CAÑON TRAIL. . . Tower Falls to Bell's Lako. Old Ruin.... Grizzly Pass ....... Grand Slide i.. · Brink of the Grand Cañon .... Great Falls of the Yellowstone NNW 14 wo w 17 30. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK: MINERS' TRAIL TO THE CLARK'S FORK MINES. Between points. Total.. Miles. Miles. . . Forks of the Yellowstone to- Crystal Croek... Amethyst Creek.. Ford of East Fork of the Yellowstone............... Soda Butto Medicinal Springs.... Pebble Creek .... Silver Smelter, Clark's Forks Mines, Index Peak..... Index Peak. TOWN WAA" FOSSIL FOREST TRAIL. . . . . . . . . . . Ford of East Fork of the Yellowstone to Hot Spring Camp .... Fossil Terrace .... Bison Sammit.... Mirror Pond .... Brimstono Basin .. Forks of Pelican Creek.. Yellowstone Lake...... STINKINGWÅTER TRAIL. Forks of the Pelican tom Entrance to pass .. Cañon and pass through the first range . 11 RECAPITULATION OF ROADS AND TRAILS OPENED WITHIN THE PARK. C Roads. Miles. Mammoth Hot Springs to north line of the park, near the Yellowstone .... ....... Mamunoth Hot Springs to the Forks of the Gardiner Mammoth Hot Springs to West Gardiner ........ Mammoth Hot Springs to junction with Henry's Lake road. Junction on Henry's Lake road to western line of the park Junction to house in Upper Geyser Basin ......... Forks of the Fire Hole Rivers to Cold Spring Creek ........ ....... Trails. Miles. . ...... . . . . . . 1st. Middle Gardiner .......... 2d. Forks of the Yellowstone ... 3d. Clark's Fork Mines ........ 4th. Fossil Forrests ... 5th. Stinkingwater....... 6th. Yellowstone Lake and Falls. 7th. Mount Washburn.. 8th. Grand Cañon...... ......... 234 To the southern route the Central Pacific Railroad to California, as well as the Den- ver Pacific and other railroads to Saint Louis, afford great facilities for the Southern and Southwestern States and Territories, and for the increasing class of scientists and retired military and naval officers, or those upon leave of absence who, while making the grand trip of the world, now annually visit the park. The northern route has the advantages of cool summer travel upon the great lakes, : the Missouri and Yellowstone Rivers, and railroad connections with Manitoba and YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 31 other British possessions, and erelong with Oregon, Washiugton Territory, and the northern route to Asia via the Northerin Pacific Railioad. One of these routes presents the greatest variety of scenery, modes of travel, and somewhat shortest distance; the other the most direct continuous railroad connection, least coach or horseback travel, and consequently requiring the least time, but prac- tically both are convenient and necessary, as most persons with time and means will prefer going one route and returning the other, and no effort will be spared upon my part to prepare the roads within the park and urging others to prepare its approaches, as also to perfect arrangements with the various railroad, steamboat, and coach lines for trip, tickets to and throughout the park, probably during the latter portion of the coming season, and certainly the next. Camp outfit and provisions can be purchased without extortion at Bozeman, Vir- ginia City, Ogden, and elsewhere, and trusty guides with saddle and pack animals at the Mammoth Hot Springs and other points within and adjacent to the park. Time really necessary to view the leading wonders of the park, ten days, and many more may be enjoyed with benefit; season of the year for a visit, July, August, and early September; cost of trip, although one of the most important considerations with most persons, is, from their divers positions, tastes, and modes of travel, the most difficult to state, even approximately, but will range from $400 to $1,000 for the entire expenses of a visit to the mystic wonder-land. The best plan is, as recommended in my last year's report, to make the park the main object and turning point of a season's rambles, visiting at least the Salt Lake and the Yellowstone regions upon the outward or return routes. There was no annoyance by Indians during the past season within or near the park, and no present prospect of any during the next, "AAASTRCA leurot Mrreg II100 110130' Akumulatorer ossad", "Goldilodes 11020' 1101101 110100 12 U N .. Cantin CROW | INDIAN RESERVATIO MINES. 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YA ARME OF RIDDLE LAKE ul i a U . DIVIDE 9 00. miІВНА FAт м - E 190 2210 20 It WA III Wils MET Ta 17 Milline jililere TA E All' 2 VITU IH Shoose a NI ed E sze A 2007, D > www AZ V MIN ITA . III VIOS olm DHIDI Minnie Villa YA Ila 2011 PITCH STONE I DWUNDT ELLOW STONE ROS ) Molitve 7 r . as IN 111 BAN S a Indt s PLATEAU . chWUNIJA TV / / W V / FORA st EUWS COM Kiin Edi ceat Department of the Interior. A CHLERO I r R illion.com 1...!! mittere online E Ezaunakinnitamine mra COMPILED FROM THE MAPS OF F. V. HAYDEN AND OF P.W.NORRIS FOR 1878 AND FIELD NOTES OF THE EXPLORATIONS AND IMPROVEMENTS OF P.W.NORRIS AND SURVEYS OF Aud.REEVES IN 1879, NII!!!! i R4 st vatten wanitt HALL ilay Srillimise Din 2 w wice Pub BEULA I. Niinis, Tor BY PW.NORRIS SUPERINTENDENT OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK G επικινεκον li ... e WW1llund yu Statuto Miles GHEATEU"mumu TAKKI H111799 TO itu C C UNIT VOTE Kiten 110 50 110° 40' 11020 110010 110.00 REPORT UPON THE U.S. Supt. of the YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, i5-29% TO THE : SECRETARY OF THE INTERIOR, BY P. W. NORRIS, SUPERINTENDENT. FOR THE YEAR 1878. WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 1879. REPORT ON THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. NORRIS, MICH., December 10, 1878. SIR: I have the honor to submit the following report of my operations in the field during the season of 1878: As soon as the appropriation for the Yellowstone National Park be- came available, I proceeded via Omaha and Ogden direct to Bozeman, Mont. From Detroit, Mich., Mr. B. F. Bush, an early and enthusiastic mem- ber of the scientific association of that city, accompanied me as assistant at a mere nominal salary, purposing to remain in the park during the winter to keep a regular weather record, and explore and sketch its main wonders, at present but little known at that season of the year. In pub- lic meetings at both Virginia City and Bozeman I fully explained the boundaries, wonders, and necessities of the park ; your rules and regu- lations and my plans for its protection and improvement; and was by the speakers, the resolutions, and press reports thereof sustained by unanimous pledges of earnest sympathy and support. At Bozeman I rapidly outfitted for the park and reached it, 70 miles distant, in time to take observations of the there total eclipse of the sun, July 29, from a lofty, unexplored basaltic pinnacle of Sepulcher Mount- ain, as did Messrs. Bush and Bottler from the Cinnabar. As stated in my preliminary report, the increasing probability that the hostile Bannocks would, like the Nez Percés of last year, raid the park from the west, induced me to defer the purposed erection of build- ings at the Mammoth Hot Springs and seek to construct a road thence, connecting the entrance from Fort Ellis with that from Henry's Lake at the Lower Firehole Basin, for military as well as other purposes. A prudent regard for the safety of our limited appropriation also induced me to send back our official and other valuables to Bottlers', and to pur- chase but few animals, mainly hiring them with their owners at only trifling additional expense and no risk of loss. I thus quickly organized a party of some 20 well armed, mounted, and equipped, resolute and reliable mountaineer laborers, and, with only one baggage-wagon, rapidly constructed a road three miles up the lofty Mammoth Hot Springs terraces, and through an excellent pass to the West Gardiner Valley. From the summit of Sepulcher Mountain I had upon the day of the eclipse, with a field-glass, traced my route of 1875, along connecting branches of the Gardiner and the Gibbon, through a cañon nearly par- allel with the Snowy Madison range. More easterly and nearly due south from my point of observation stretched the long, open, grassy val- ley of an unexplored branch of the Gardiner issuing from a deep cañon toward the towering cliffs of the Grand Cañon of the Gibbon, and far YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. TI away over and beyond the Firehole Basins and continental divide, the serried glistening crest of the Three Tetons high above the clouds. Subsequent careful and long continued explorations of this route proved it, although difficult and dangerous of construction through sev. eral cañons and firehole basins, the most direct and practical one for a wagon road across the park. As Barronette's party had left and Professor Hayden's not reached the park, we were doubtless for a time the only white men within or near it, requiring constant caution in scouting and labor, as well as in care of animals and making and guarding camp. Despite these annoyances, we crossed the terraces, rapidly bridged the first branch of the Gard- iner, forded the next two branches, and ascended the last through a two- mile cañon, and, with nearly a half mile of bridge and causeway, crossed the foot of Beaver Lake. Obsidian there rises like basalt in vertical columns many hundreds of feet high, and countless huge masses had fallen from this utterly im- passable mountain into the hissing hot-spring margin of an equally im- passable lake, without either Indian or game trail over the glistering fragments of nature's glass, sure to severely lacerate. As this glass bar- ricade sloped from some 200 or 300 feet high against the cliff at an angle of some 450 to the lake, we-with the slivered fragments of timber thrown from the heights—with huge fires, heated and expanded, and then, men well screened by blankets held by others, by dashing cold water, sud- denly cooled and fractured the large masses. Then with huge levers, steel bars, sledge, pick, and shovels, and severe laceration of at least the hands and faces of every member of the party, we rolled, slid, crushed, and shoveled one-fourth of a mile of good wagon-road midway along the slope; it being, so far as I am aware, the only road of native glass upon the continent. Then, by a full mile of grade, we flanked Beaver Lake, skirted a dashi- ing rivulet of green alum-water, through a fine pass, and beside a lone lake in a forest of dense pines to the lovely valley of an unknown fork of the Gibbon, descended this to, and three miles through, an unexplored but extremely active and interesting firehole region, and skirting another near the second falls and cañon to the wild-flax and clover-covered park- bed of an ancient lake, to the head of the Grand Cañon of the Gibbon. Thence, without the guide of even a game-trail, by immense labor, and twice crossing the stream, we for some four miles traversed its cañon, nearly a half mile deep. We then emerged through an ancient channel, and skirted the very brink of a precipice nearly a thousand feet above the 80-foot falls and foaming rapids, and six miles of open pine-clad ter- races to Howard's road from Henry's Lake, an estimated distance of 45 miles from the Mammoth Hot Springs, mainly through a region hereto- fore totally unexplored; then 15 miles farther through the Lower Fire. hole and midway to the upper geysers, our wagon being the first to make a track along the Upper Firehole River. We joyfully met the Gannett and Holmes party of Professor Hayden's geological surveying expedition at the lower geysers—the professor himself at the upper, and between them the various members of his Wilson party straggling in afoot and exhausted after loss of their ani- mals and other outfit by the Indians near Henry's Lake. . It was truly a pleasant and fortunate meeting for all parties, after more than a month of hazardous mountain climbing and isolation from the outside world and each other; and amid abundant evidence of sur- rounding Indians, we for days pressed our various duties within sup- porting distance of eich other. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. A courier from General Brisbin warning me that the hostile Bannocks were pressing through Tyghee's pass, and advising concentration for defense, until relieved by himself or General Miles, delayed us, still laboring upon the roads, at the forks of the Fireholes, until getting short of provisions, when we retraced our route to the Mammoth Springs, there finding General Brisbin with a Gatling battery and all the troops available, and that the main band of hostiles had meanwhile crossed our road between us. I there also found that the Bozeman Bank contain- ing my government deposit was closed, requiring the assistance of my Bottler friends to continue the work. Although the funds were ultimately replaced in Helena, without loss to myself or the government, and General Miles inet and in a sharp con- flict nearly exterminated the Bannocks, yet these circumstances wholly unavoidable and not likely to again occur, were, in the midst of a short season's operations, peculiarly annoying and retarding. During a tour of the park with General Miles, and in reviewing the old trail-routes and exploring new ones, I was enabled to keep a small party actively engaged in improving my road to the geysers, that towards Fort Ellis, and a new one to the forks of the Gardiner on the route to the falls and lake, and several additional bridle-paths and bridges. Also, in view of the remote, if not immediate, possibility that the scaling off of heavy masses of rock from the famous extinct geyser-cone called Liberty Cap might destroy its equilibrium, causing its fall and lamentable destruction, I erected rough but firm braces of timber under a shoulder of the endangered side. After the conimencement of autumn storms rendered the employinent of a large party of laborers unprofitable, I, with one or two reliable scouts, continued the exploration of mountain passes and routes for roads and bridle-paths, learning much of exceeding value in future operations. Lastly, through October snow-storms, explored the crags and cañons along the head of the West Gallatin in the northwestern corner of Wyo- ming, to learn if its boundaries may there be adopted as those of the park, as is for many reasons desirable. Having thus fortunately closed the very arduous field duties of the season, and, without the loss of a man or an animal, safely left the gov- ernment property at Bottlers', I crossed the range to Bozeman. Leaving there October 14, 1, without special incident or delay, returned via coach, Utah Northern and Union Pacific Railroads. My assistant, Mr. Bush, kept a regular record of weather observations, and other notes of interest, and greatly assisted in obtaining a large and interesting collection of fossil wood, chalcedony, obsidian, &c. But un- fortunately the unexpected hardships of our camp-life and season's duties so impaired his health as to compel his return down the Yellowstone, but so late as to endanger being frozen in; and, leaving the Mackinaw at Fort Keogh, he took a mule-train to Bismarck and has but recently returned. EXPLORATIONS. While my explorations of the route connecting the wagon-road en- trances to the park, and that between the Grand Cañon and Mount Washburn are doubtless the most important of the season, still I deem many others of considerable interest and value. ... Beaver Lake, at least a half mile wide, of considerable depth, and in summer alive with geese, swans, and other water-fowl, is mainly if not wholly artificial. It is evidently formed by a succession of beaver-dams meandering in nearly every graceful curve, each with a fall of from 2 to YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 6 or 8 feet, probably aggregating some 30 or 40 in less than 2 miles; with a bare flat, like an estuary of the sea, where the dark green alum- water of a hissing firehole basin enters it. An impure obsidian, black, with white flecks and cavities, is common in the park, notably at the Great Falls; but chips, flakes, arrowheads, and other Indian tools and weapons have been found by all recent tourists and explorers, in burial cairns, and also scattered broadcast in all those moun- tain valleys, of a different and much superior kind of obsidian, and from a source unknown until my discovery of it this season. I had seen the cañon from Sepulcher Mountain some 20 miles distant, and specimens of obsidian increasing in number, size, and beauty as I neared it, only in wonder and admiration there to find the eastern palisadefor two miles in distance and many hundred feet in height, literally towering vertical pillars of glistening black, yellow, and mottled or banded obsidian basaltic columns in form, but volcanic glass in fact-ever for the aborig- ines a vast weapon and implement quarry, of obsidian of a quality une- qualled, and a quantity elsewhere unknown. The pine and crystal-spring bordered, wild-flax and clover-clad glades of the Norris Fork of the Gibbon, in beauty and value for the tourist are unsurpassed by any in the park; and the open grassy park, 5 or 6 miles in circumference, between the upper and lower falls and cañons of the Gibbon, dotted and begirt by huge boiling springs, sputtering paint-pots, and spouting geysers, many of them timber-hidden, high up the encir- cling mountains, for beauty and for grazing I deem invaluable. Upon the crest of the western mountain spur, rising nearly vertical full 1,000 feet above the head of the Grand Cañon of the Gibbon, is a firehole basin, containing, probably, less than 5 acres, yet one of the most beau- tiful and interesting within the park. There, mingled with hot springs and spouting geysers, are 12 pulsating geyser cones from 2 to 20 or 30 feet in height, in form and character similar to the famous Liberty Cap; and, like that, fully one-half of them are extinct and slowly eroding away. Others are still active; one of them a tall fumerole, pulsating like the exhaust-pipe from a huge Corliss engine, and another has the orifice and terminal of its cone positively horizontal, instead of vertical. Although there are still at least one powerful geyser and a hissing fumerole plainly audible for miles, yet there is abundant evidence that this basin is in all respects but a dwindled remnant of what it was at no remote period, when its matchless geyser supplied four separate and distinct torrents of hot water in hissing cascades adown the mountain crags. As discov. erer, and probably yet sole white visitor, I from its group of white gey- ser cones name it the Monument Basin, and I trust none will ever ques- tion the appropriateness of Beaver Lake, Obsidian Mountain, and other names given to localities which I have discovered and explored. Along and near the upper cañon of the Gibbon, are pulsating geyser cones of both yellow and crimson, paint-springs, and rivulets of nearly every color, geysers throwing their jets some at least 100 feet at an angle of 400 to 600, instead of vertically as in the old basins; and in the open basin along the road, beside many small but beautiful geysers, is a large crater formed so recently that many pine trees within and around it still retain their seared and mud-laden leaves. Mount Washburn, is alike the great landmark, observatory, and un- avoidable obstacle upon the route from the forks of the Yellowstone to its falls and lake; and a route less elevated, bleak, and snowy than that now used over the western spur, is exceedingly desirable. Fully aware of this, I have for years sought for record of tourist or explorer, or legend of mountaineer, claiming to have ever passed between Mount YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. Washburn and the Grand Cañon, but utterly failed, and my injury at Tower Falls checked my personal efforts of last year. Nor did I find an opportunity this season until September 26, when with Adam Miller and and five good horses, I started to explore it. From the falls of Tower Creek I explored its cañon and the cañon and valley of Antelope Creek above it, the timbered plateau between them, and also that be- tween the latter and the Grand Cañon. I found the latter very elevated, but open, smooth, and grassy, with a fine lake upon its summit, mainly an excellent route, with magnificent scenery along the yawning, sulphur- scented and stained cañon, for some 6 or 8 miles, and past the ruins of an ancient, once loopholed, earth-roofed block-house some 16 by 20 feet in diameter and of unknown origin, to a dense forest at the foot of a bald rocky spur of Mount Washburn. Its tangled timber border, rocky sides, and sharp, serried crest, as seen from Mount Washburn above and the valley below, and its estimated fully 2,000 feet of vertical faces where cut by the Grand Cañon as seen across it, with others similar nearer the falls, had ever been deemed impassable. A careful exploration of the first one from its towering front in nearly a foot of newly fallen snow, through a belt of dense pine, fir, and cedars to near the main mountain, resulted in there finding a pass excellent for than the old route. · From a rocky, snow-girt peak in this pass I saw others still better in the remaining timber-fringed mountain spurs, and became well assured of success. I camped in a dense clump of pines and balsams in a sheltered grassy glade amid the snow, and like Fremont on an island in the Great Salt Lake, or Stevenson and Elliot upon one in the Yellowstone beyond the reach or fear of Indians, enjoyed the sweet repose of the weary, suc- cessful and contented. With increasing premonitions of a gathering mountain storm, my plans were formed and camp in motion with the early dawn. Hastily record- ing our visit upon one of the trees of our canopy, I sent my.men with the animals to seek a route through the remaining spurs and timber to the cascade and Great Falls, instructing them to await there a day before searching for me, should I fail to arrive. Then with rifle and batchet, afoot, and alone, I descended a side cañon through all its labyrinth of windings, tangled timber, and crumbling walls, to the pent-up, roaring Yellowstone in the nearly hidden recesses of the Grand Cañon. Nearly fronting me was the mouth of a yawning side cañon soon hidden in its windings, somewhat above a side cascade nearly lost in spray in its fully 1,000 feet descent, and about and above me the stifling sulphur fumes of hissing fireholes, alike a serious obstacle to my purposed exploration of the cañon to the falls, and a warning to leave it without delay. Through great exertion, I breathless and exhausted reached the timbered plateau, and through fast-descending, large, downy snow-flakes ascended to the Great Falls, the thunders of which for miles came in rumbling echoes from the fearful depths. I there, in the gathering twilight, thankfully enjoyed the greeting shout and blazing camp-fire of my men, just safely arrived with the welcome intelligence that they had found a route in all respects preferable to that orer the mountain to Cascade Creek. The day had been without wind, and for a snowy one remarkably light, and the snow, which was more than a foot deep before night, really a benefit, plainly disclosing the various hot springs and sulphur basins, as ILI YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. well as the clear-cut edge of the Grand and side cañons, and brink of the large yawning land-slides. As the Grand Cañon is doubtless mainly one of erosion, like that of the Niagara, with a stream much smaller and gorge several times as deep, the hot springs have, by undermining the shelly walls, caused sev- eral of these slides of incredible dimensions. One of them extends at least a mile back from the river, a fourth of a mile along it, and fully as deep, with a grove of timber still flourishing upon the portion not yet removed by the river, which, as well as a roaring rapid, and, I think, a fall or cascade, are hidden by it. Two or three other smaller but similar ones, with their short, cañoned rivulets, by deeply indenting and length- ening the edge of the cañon, are the main obstacles to a road along its plateau brink. For though the pine, spruce, and fir timber is mainly very dense, yet it is small, only averaging a proper size for railroad cross-ties, easily removed from a road-track, and useful for its small bridges; and as I did not for many, miles see a trail, hatchet-hack, or other trace of a human being, I have no doubt of my being the first explorer of the entire brink of the Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone, itself still mainly untrodden. As before stated, portions of any possible route upon either side of the Grand Cañon between the forks and the falls of the Yellowstone will be elevated and expensive, especially for a wagon-road. That upon the eastern side of the cañon is utterly impracticable; that within it, unknown, but doubtless mainly so, while of the two remaining, that I explored is the shortest, least elevated, and easiest of construction, in fact, in all respects so preferable that I have no question of its adoption for all purposes other than a lofty, bridle-path lookout, for which purpose a portion of the old route, a branch from the new one over Mount Wash- burn, or both, will ever be desirable. Not only was the route thus found less rugged and difficult than feared, but also the Grand Cañon was shorter, and especially its lower portion less deep and yawning than has been considered. Still it is, especially from its yellow and crimson geysers to the falls, beautiful and grand beyond conception, a leading wonder of the park and of the world, every way worthy of a route along or as near as possible to its misty and sulphur-tinted walls. From the falls I ascended the Yellowstone to its lake, but was pre- vented by deep shows and by Indians from a projected trip around it. Leaving it at Steamboat Point, I traced a trail route, via Pelican Creek and Amethyst Mountain, to the forks of the Yellowstone, a new route across the main river, and thence through the cañon of the East Gardi- ner to the Mammoth Springs. During these various explorations of routes for roads and bridle-paths, various paint pools, fossil forests, and other places of interest were dis- covered. But as most of them were subsequently visited by some mem- bers of Professor Hayden's geological survey, in connection with their own numerous and valuable discoveries and explorations, I leave fur- ther description in more appropriate hands. SUMMARY. So well are its attractions understood, and so popular is the park in : all those regions, that I have been cordially sustained by the civil and military officers, and the leading citizens, in my efforts for its protection and improvement. Still, to properly restrain the lawless citizen or tourist from wanton slaughter of animals, and other acts of vandalism, I deem additional legislation of various kinds indispensable.. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. That the special rules and regulations, necessarily anomalous and con- flicting with the roving-hunter habits of the surrounding mountaineers, cannot be effectively enforced without the limits of their operations (the boundaries of the park) being established and plainly marked, is too evident for controversy. Equally so is the necessity for a thorough knowl- edge by all parties as to what civil and military officers of those regions. are empowered and obligated to assist the superintendent in the prompt enforcement of these rules and regulations in every portion of the park. Nor should leases for any purpose be granted, or permanent occupancy or improvement by any parties be allowed, except in conformity with these necessary rules and regulations, quietly, affably, but uniformly enforced. Complications arising with several parties claiming to have made improvements within the park prior to its dedication as such, render their adjustment so desirable that I urge their consideration at the earliest practicable moment. As at least the mining portions of these complications are probably without the boundaries of Wyoming Terri- tory, which, as this season's exploration clearly proves, embraces all the wonders desired within the park, I earnestly recommend changing its northern and western boundaries to conform to those of Wyoming and the speedy completion of their survey. This is for many obvious rea- sons very desirable, among which is, that running one east and west line will fix the borders of the Territories of Montana and Wyoming, and also those of the park and the Crow Indian reservation, thus alike avoid- ing present expense and future complications from the exceedingly di- verse judicial and other modes of managing contiguous regions. As the park adjoin's the settled portions of Montana, while wholly isolated from those of Wyoming, I suggest the propriety of its being at least temporarily attached to Montana for judicial purposes. The few Sheepeaters, Bannocks, or Shoshones who alone once resided within the park, now belong at their agencies with other annuity Indians. Hence, no Indians now visit the park save as a haunt for purposes of plunder, or of concealment after bloody raids upon the ranchmen, pil. grims, or tourists. Therefore, I urge the necessity of the agency Indians. of all the surrounding tribes being officially notified that they can only visit the park at the peril of a conflict with each other and the civil and military officers of the government; and a rigid accountability for plun- der of all kinds taken into any of these agencies. This, with a small military post, or at least a summer camp, at the Yellowstone or Henry's Lake, or the Forks of the Fireholes between them, would prove alike valuable in protection of the park and the adjacent valleys; and being warmly recommended by both the civil and military officers of those regions will, it is hoped, secure it and the future safety of the park, and its routes of access. These are rapidly approaching by railroad, steam- boat, and coach route up the Yellowstone via the gate of the mountains. or Bozeman to the Mammoth Hot Springs, and also by the Utah North- ern Railroad, now completed from Ogden to near the Snake River, with fair promise of reaching Market Lake and a coach route of some 150 miles via Henry's Fork and Lake, to the Forks of the Firehole within the park. Such prospective coach connection with the park renders. more urgent the necessity of at least a wagon-road through it, not only along the direct route which I explored and roughly opened this season, but also the much longer, rougher, and more costly route unavoidable (as along the old trail), to view the great Yellowstone Lake, Falls, and Cañon, and for the completion of the circuit of the park, and view of its greatest wonders. IT 10 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. : AV This season's explorations and careful observations of the bison, elk, bighorn, and other animals within the park, and also of those originally taken from there and now roaming peacefully with our domestic ani- mals in the Bottler Park, the expressed views of their owners and also other mountaineers the best acquainted with the haunts and habits of those still wild-information every way practical and valuable-fully jus- tify my last year's recommendations for their protection and domesti- cation. I thus still adhere to the views then expressed, that the delta-shaped portion of the park bounded on the west by the Yellowstone Lake, River, and Cañon, the Snowy Range upon the east, and north by the deep- sheltered grassy East Fork Valley, where the most of these animals now are, and where the residue would soon concentrate if there especially pro- tected, is the place, and now is the time, to preserve living specimens of the dwindling remnants of our most beautiful, interesting, and valuable native animals and birds. Hence I again urge the necessity of making leases to responsible parties (some of whom are now ready if protected from Indians) as sub-agents of the government to protect and gradually domesticate a portion of these elsewhere nearly extinct animals, with no other cost to the nation than the exclusive right within certain pre- scribed districts of raising hardy vegetables and domestic animals for themselves, whicli are also necessary for the use of future tourists in the wonder-land. There is an abundance of excellent grass, wood, and water at the Mammoth Hot Springs; and of the several excellent building-sites the accessible oblong grassy butte, commanding a view of the matchless ter- races, the cañon of the main Gardiner River and its branches, should doubtless be selected for the headquarters of the superintendent of the park, or for a much needed commodious hotel, baths, and other out-build- ings. There are several good building-sites, plenty of wood, fair water; and excellent water easily obtainable near the castle and Old Faithful; but a scarcity of pasturage in the upper basin. Building-sites, water, and pasturage are very inferior at the lower geysers; but upon a terrace of the lofty lookout butte, just above the forks of the Firehole Rivers is a site easily approachable from, and commanding a fine view of, the open val- leys of both the forks, and the Madison River below their junction, with their boundless pasturage, countless geysers, and other hot springs, in- cluding the Lower Geyser Basin some two miles south and directly front- ing it. Wood and water are here abundant, the former excellent, the latter very inferior; nor can this only drawback upon an otherwise pecu- liarly favorable strategic location be remedied except by conveyance of water in pump-logs or otherwise from a distance of several miles. There are several charming sites for a hotel and yacht or steamboat landing near the foot of Yellowstone Lake, and a lofty site with nearly every natural convenience and few disadvantages, commanding a full view of nearly all the concentrations of wonders at the Great Falls. There are several excellent sites, and necessity for occupancy of at least one of them, among the geysers which I explored this season; a. matchless one for grazing and for domestication of the bison, elk, and other wild animals, near the famous Soda Butte; also a route for ap- proach and crossing of the main Yellowstone near the forks, far prefer- able to that of the Barronette Bridge, now so decayed and burned as to be very dangerous; or to the abutments of the miners' bridge commenced above it. At any or all of these localities the bison can be at least as easily and reliably reared as domestic cattle, with its flesh fully equal and its nearly S S SSSSS SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS SUNNINNS SININ - CLARK DBOZEMAN ROAD TO พรากรอะ EVICE CREEK ARK 116L CREEK ROUT LAKE 10 exhi STONE anIMWWUDummy YFORK MO ܙܕܕܥܕܟܥܫܘܫܘܥܕܫܥܕܟܥܥܢܥܝܥܝܫܘܥ . 3 ELL ROARING MINES 0 3 y W HELL a bere muUMUM WANITA niihmisii unui - Will W Y . ATIN RIVER Wy! GARDINERS BLACK TAIL G ihresvuunto SLOUGH CRVE CREEK ELECTRIC ELEOTAIO Photo CALL BARRON ETTS BRIDGE M CEASTAFORK SH SODA BUTTE US MA ': MINES -------- DI PER UPPER MAD SUMMIT PONO TO US . inu - '. Will - TRAI air . . IR MADISON . --- MADISON - ER CREEK 2. FAL .. TOWER CR - VITU TAMA N. A Hinsi A ily - ADA B BSIDIAN M T WAS REIHI ܕܢܪܫܕܟܕܕܙܘܘܪܒܘܤܪܘܬܐܪܪܟܪܕܥܕܥܕܕܥܪܥܥܕܪܕܪ - CRYSTEM In BEAVER SHARE . - NE LAKE Buna RAKET . fir YET - Wa . Art V , AN 1 TV Inn E 7 1 " RANGE . WS 1 Y . 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' PROPOSE, dr., n UPPER 'c UPPER CEY : WWW S . LAKE . Celeron BRIMSTAR OOK OU! ! Livini TOR www 1 r FORM STANIE Vand I : EYSER TONE 8 ASIC . HESTY IN.. V IN YELLOWSTON S . I W it ZESTAW :11, BAS! VIT Sul . . .. ER DAM / CREEK . 2 . . A . .., *- ΤΑ | Ν * 4 4. E . The T . 10 . AV times UPPER il Aminum . 3 . . PER MADISON RIVER H 0 11W . ! 3 Divio E .. . ylu . " FASCA DECA . KVA . 111! TRAIL ! GOSHONE LAL . M . . . A ASIA 1111 YELLOWSTON 1114 1. NA mill!,, '', WAV ELK TRAIL CREEK 12 t", A111111 . T PRO .. . . ... D UUTA . .? .... LAKE INXHIM . LEWIS . I VH PRO POSLO SUSANN LAKE RIVER DC EYSER 1102 sorá inte TAAIL A SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 11 black curly robes far more valuable than those of the buffalo of the plains, and with the excellent and abundant timber material, inclosures can be cheaply made for preservation of a few specimens of the elk, antelope, and other animals of great interest to future tourists. With another season's improvement and construction of roads and bridle-paths, the promised routes of access, and protection from Indians, I have all confidence of being able to effect leases to responsible parties for the construction of much-needed hotels, and also for a yacht or small steamer upon the mystic Yellowstone Lake. A plain but comfortable residence with the necessary outbuildings for the use of the superintendent of the park and the safety of the pa- pers and other national property at one of the main entrances to the park, is so obviously necessary, that their construction has only been de- ferred because of the Indian raids now hopefully terminated. With this view I am having lumber and other material prepared for construction of these buildings .early next season, mainly with the un- expended balance of the appropriation for the present fiscal year. > HISTORY OF THE PARK. Believing that, aside from purely scientific questions already in more appropriate hands, a brief statement of the location, dedication, and leading features of the Yellowstone National Park, and a reference to its prominent explorers and route of access, will prove of present and per- manent interest and value, I devote a few pages of this report for these purposes. As it will require months to compile Professor Hayden's extensive ex- plorations and surveys of the past season and to issue a doubtless correct and valuable map of the park, I insert a small and tolerably accurate one for present use. There can be no doubt that the modern sulphur basins, mud-salses, hissing fumeroles, and spouting geysers are only dwindling remnants of the ancient volcanoes and vast and long-con- tinued eruptions of lava, which in the region of the National Park characterized the elevation of the great plains and Rocky Mountain ranges from the oozy bed of a shallow ancient sea. It is also evident that at some subsequent, but remote, period of time many of these mountain slopes at an elevation of from 6,000 to 10,000 feet were covered with dense forests of timber, in size fairly rivaling those now upon the Pacific coast; and that by some eruption, perhaps like that which covered Pompeii and Herculaneum, these forests were suddenly crushed or covered and encased by a sea of hot ashes, mud, and slime. Here erosion of the elements, or the fuse, pick and shovel of the tourist unearths this ancient timber, often petrified entire, a perfect tree or log of stone; others timber in form, opal or chalcedony in fact, with amethyst or other crystallized cavities, matchless in form, color, and beauty, and for cabinet specimens, elsewhere unequaled in nature and unrivaled by art. Many hot springs and mineral streams now petrify timber, or coat it with sparkling lime or silica, build geyser cones, and many beautiful forms of crystallization, but all clearly distinct, and mainly much inferior to those of the closing eruptive period. As can be seen upon any map of the United States, the Snake River Fork of the Columbia, and Green River Fork of the Colorado of the Gulf of California (Pacific waters), as nearly all the other great rivers of that portion of the continent, including the Jefferson, Madison, and Gallatin 12 NATIONAL PARK. Y YELLOWSTONE Forks, and the Yellowstone, Big Horn, and other branches of the Mis- souri-Mississippi-Atlantic waters, and the longest river upon our globe, radiate (often) from hot springs or spouting geysers within or adjacent to the great National Park, situate mainly in Northwestern Wyoming Territory. This is really less one large park than a group of smaller ones, partially or wholly isolated, upon both sides of the continental divide, here much lower than the nearly unbroken surrounding mountain ranges. Its average altitude probably exceeds that of Yellowstone Lake (some 8,000 feet), or nearly a half mile higher than Mount Washington; its few and yawning, ever difficult, often impassable, cañon-approaches along foaming torrents, and the superstitious awe of the hissing springs, sulphur basins, and spouting geysers, and unfrequent visits of the sur- rounding pagan Indians combined to peculiarly delay the exploration of this truly mystic land. Although Lewis and Clarke, by ascending the Jefferson instead of the Madison or Gallatin Forks of the Missouri in 1805, crossed the Rocky Mountain Divide some 30 miles west of the park without its discovery, yet it is from a member of that first band of Northwestern explorers that we derive our first knowledge of its existence. Coulter and Potts, after their discharge in 1806, retraced Captain Clarke's return route, via the Yellowstone River and' Bozeman Pass, to the three forks of the Missouri. They there continued to trap and hunt until Potts was killed and Coulter captured in a Blackfeet Indian ambuscade below the famous Beaver- head landmark upon the Jefferson. Coulter was allowed to run the gauntlet for his life, and, being remarkably fleet of foot, distanced all but one of his pursuers, whom he pinned to the earth with his own war-lance, and escaped, over 6 miles of prickly-pear plain, to some drift-wood at the head of an island in the Jefferson. Unarmed, naked, and lacerated, he, through untold dangers, hardships, and suffering, reached a trading-post on the Lower Yellowstone, rearmed and returned to his Bannock friends, and for years hunted, trapped, and with relentless vengeance fought the Blackfeet. The haunt of the main Bannock tribe was at Henry's Lake, west of the park, that of their little Sheepeater Band within, and their main buffalo range upon the Big Horn, east of it, and Coulter certainly visited the Great Falls, Yellowstone Lake, and some of the firehole basins and spouting geysers, and ever after his return to Missouri in 1810 gloried in describing them. Yet so little credence was given his descriptions, that for many years, even long after I was first upon the Lower Yellow- stone, "Coulter's Hell” was a standing camp-fire jest upon now well- knowil realities, and John Coulter is, without a shade of doubt, the first white explorer of any portion of the Yellowstone National Park. In 1809, the veteran fur-trader Henry, driven from the three forks of the Missouri by the ferocious Blackfeet, constructed and for a time occu- pied a stockade fort upon the outlet of the lake, which still bears his name. W. P. Hunt and Ramsey Crooks, in their outward route to the ever ill- fated Astoria, with a strong party in 1810, and also the feeble remnant of the band during their return in 1812, crossed the Wind River Range south of the park. The famous American mountaineers Henry, Ashley, Sublette, and Jackson, the Scottish Campbells and Stewarts, the French Pierre, Port Neuf, and Fontenelle, and other renowned trappers and traders, róamed over the regions surrounding the park until the most of them were killed by the Indians, down to the expedition of Captain Bonneville, in 1832. During that year a sanguinary battle was fought between the ever-bloody YELLOWSTONE AL 13 NATIONAL PARK. Blackfeet and the combined bands of these fur-traders and their Bannock friends at their general rendezvous in the famous “Pierre's Hole," near the Three Tetons, within plain view of mountains within the park;. and yet, most strangely, in all the published reports of these famous inount- aineers, we fail to find a hint of the park or its wonders. During nearly three years of trapping and trading with the Indians by Captain Bonneville and his detached parties, in all directions from the park, it is evident that he neither visited it nor learned its true location. For although his map of those regions was far more accurate than any before and many after it, even that shows the largest mountain lake, as the head of the Snake River instead of the Yellowstone; hence Pacific instead of Atlantic waters, inaccurate in form, without a name, and no indications of the great falls, canons, or geysers, or any of the firehole basins. In fact, in his only reference to the latter (Irving's Bonneville, page 236) he erroneously locates it upon the Stinking River (now Water) branch of the Big Horn, where the sulphur fumes from an extinct geyser basin somewhat resemble those of the park, but every way less mountain- girt and important than those which Coulter saw within the park. I have ever given much credence to a well-endorsed camp-fire legend of a mountaineer named Smith having, prior to the days of Bonneville, written a narrative of his explorations of the firehole regions, and being killed by the Indians before its publication; but have never found writ- ten proof thereof. Border legends, although often gross exaggerations, are seldom wholly false, and scores of them indicate that white mount- aineers did long ago occasionally visit. portions of the park for trapping or concealment, and perhaps both. This is, in fact, proven by ancient stumps, of large trees cut for breastworks and for foot-logs across the Crevice, Hellroaring and other mountain torrents, which no experienced mountaineer would fail to recognize as those of white men, from being rounded from below in a way never practiced by any known Indians. Also a corral near Amethyst Mountain, and the ruins of an ancient block- house with earth roof and port-holes, clearly the work of unknown white men, near the grand cañon below Mount Washburn, and a cache of mar- tin steel-traps of a peculiar forin only used by the Hudson Bay trappers some fifty years ago, which were recently found along our road near the Indian arrowhead quarry at Beaver Lake. · In Captain (now General) Frémont's reports of his explorations in those regions in 1842–44, he describes mountain scenery and harmless hermit Indians similar to those in the park, but no geysers ; being probably ignorant of their existence. In 1844 James Bridger to me personally, and as I now know correctly, described the cañons of the Upper Snake River, but had then neither seen nor obtained a correct conception of the geysers, deeming them real volcanoes. His description of the Two Ocean Pass south of the park is now admitted to be mainly correct, and there is more of truth than sport (as per camp-fire custom) in his famous story of a foaming torrent, icy cold at its snowy fountain-head, and seething hot half a mile down the mountain-side, though not caused, as he boasted and perhaps believed, by the velocity of the descent, but by a crag-hidden firehole basin of spouting water and seething brimstone. So with his famous legend of a lake with inillions of beaver nearly im- possible to kill because of their superior 'cuteness, with haunts and houses in inaccessible grottoes in the base of a glistening mountain of glass, which every mountaineer of our party at once recognized as an exaggeration of the artificial lake and obsidian mountain which I this Fear discovered, as briefly stated in my explorations-chapter of this re- 14 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. port. But as its location, as also that of the arrow and lance head quarry, is across a sharp mountain range from where represented, and so long sought by trappers, it is not probable that he ever saw them, but that his information was derived from old Hudson Bay trappers or their Indian allies, alike interested in deceiving him as to their true location. These rumors of a mountain-girt land of wonders at the fountain-heads of the Missouri and Yellowstone so impressed Lieutenant (now General) G. K. Warren during his explorations of the Black Hills and great plains up to 1857, that he planned an expedition to explore it. This strong, well-equipped party, under the command of Captain (since General) W. F. Reynolds, with Prof. F. V. Hayden as geologist and James Bridger as guide, spent the season of 1859 in exploring the Black Hills and Big Horn regions, and failing to cross the towering Yellowstone Range and reach its mystic lake, wintered upon the North Platte. He renewed his efforts in the spring by sending Lieutenant Maynadier with a party down the Big Horn to again seek a pass from the east, and with the main party himself sought one up Wind River from the south. Both parties failed; Reynolds by encountering a buttressed-based, snow-capped mountain wall, to cross which Bridger declared that even a crow would need to carry his grub, or provisions. Turning to the west and crossing the main Wind River divide, near the head of Green River, and failing in another effort to reach the cliff and snow.encircled park from near the Three Tétons, he abandoned the effort, and followed the old traders' route via Henry's Fork and Lake to the Three Forks of the Missouri. He was there joined by Lieutenant Maynadier, who, failing in all his efforts to reach the park from the east, had crossed the Yellowstone in buffalo-hide boats below the gate of the mountains, and through the Bozeman Pass had reached and descended the Gallatin.-(See Ex. Doc. 77, Fortieth Congress, first session.) The utter failure of a two years' search for the geyser basins by such well-equipped parties and led by the most famous guide of the mount- ains, proves them mountain-girt, isolated from the surrounding regions, with few and difficult known routes of access. Thus baffled, the government made no further effort to explore the park until long after gold-seeking pilgrims had visited various portions of it. Prominent among these prospectors were Bart Henderson, Adam Miller, George Houstin, and C. J. Barronette around the Forks of the Yellowstone, and Frederick Bottler and H. Sprague from Henry's Lake to the forks of the Firehole River. All these were prior to 1869, when two hunters, named Cook and Folsom, visited portions of the park, but their verbal report, made to General Washburn and others who sent them from Helena, has never been published. . Having myself, long before the Reynolds expedition, failed, as he did, to reach the park from the east, I, after many years' absence from those regions, sought, in June, 1870, to reach it by ascending the Yellowstone above the gate of the mountains, accompanied by Frederick Bottler. Deep snows baffled our resolute efforts to cross the Madison Range to the geysers, and, when seeking to descend to the Yellowstone Valley below the Mammoth Hot Springs, Bottler was swept away in attempt- ing to cross a mountain torrent above Cinnabar Mountain, losing his rifle, ammunition, most of his clothing, and nearly his life. This mis- hap compelled our most reluctant return from within the park through the then nearly unknown and impassable second cañon of the Yellow- stone to Bottlers', then the only white ranchmen upon any portion of the mighty Yellowstone River. Thence I retraced my route to Fort Ellis, published a brief account of my trip (see No. 3 of my Journal of Ram- YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 15 bles in the Far West), and, under previous engagements, descended the Columbia to the ocean, purposing to return with a party to explore the park the next year. During the following autumn the Washburn expedition was suddenly organized for exploration of the park. It was composed of H. D. Wash- burn, N. P. Langford, T. C. Everts, S. T. Houser, C. Hedges, W. Trum- bull, 'B. Stickney, W.'C. Gillett, and J. Smith. General Washburn, in command, was then surveyor-general, at least T. C. Everts and N. P. Langford ex-officers, and all prominent and es- teemed citizens of Montana Territory, well equipped; and, at Fort Ellis, joined by Lieut. G. C. Doane and seven men, they followed my return . route to and up the Yellowstone through its second cañon. They missed the Mammoth Hot Springs, but visited Mount Washburn, the Great Falls and Lake, returning by the Firehole River and Madison route to Vir- ginia City. When among the fingers of the Yellowstone Lake, Everts lost his way, horse, arms, and provisions, and after thirty-seven days of exposure, starvation, and suffering, doubtless unequaled by any other man now living, was found by Barronette and Prichette, barely alive, upon the Black Tail near the Mammoth Hot Springs. This is the first party of really successful explorers of any considerable portion of the park of which we have any public record. (See General Washburn's surveyor-general's report; also that of N. P. Langford, in the May and June, and T. C. Everts's Thirty-seven Days of Peril in the November number of the second volume of Scribner's Monthly Magazine, and Lieutenant Doane's report, Senate Ex. Doc. 51, Forty-first Congress, third session.) · The interesting letters, reports, and personal influence of the various members of this party led to Professor Hayden's interesting and valu- able explorations in the wonderland in 1871. (See Professor Hayden's Geological Surveys of 1871.) Capt. J. W. Barlow and D. P. Heap also made valuable explorations, maps, and report of portions of the park in 1871. (See Senate Ex. Doc. 66, Forty-second Congress, second session.) During the succeeding winter Professor Hayden was with his asso- ciates very active in publishing and distributing photograph views, sketches, and other valuable information in reference to the matchless wonderland, and in preparing, and, aided by many leading members of Congress, advocating to its passage a bill dedicating it as a health and pleasure resort for the American people under the name of the Yellow- stone National Park. For its boundaries and control by the Secretary of the Interior, see hereinafter copy of the act of dedication. ... For report of Professor Hayden's extensive explorations in the park, also including N. P. Langford's report as superintendent, see his report of Geological Surveys for 1872. Capt. W. A. Jones and Prof. Theodore B. Comstock explored mountain passes to, and a portion of, the park, making valuable reports and maps. (See House Ex. Dóc. 285, Torty-third Congress, first session.) In 1874, the well known Scottish Earl Dunraven made a tour of the park, and published an interesting narrative. (See his Great Divide.) For Secretary of War Belknap's narrative of a tour of the park, see his report of 1875. Capt. W. Ludlow made a reconnaissance of the park in 1875. (See Engineer's Report published by War Department.) For record of P. W.Norris's explorations in the park in 1875, see No. 24 and 25 of his Journal of Rambles in the Far West. Besides Moran, Jack- son, Elliott, Gannett, Holmes, and other justly famous artists who have at various times accompanied Professor Hayden's and other expeditions, 16 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. J. Crissman, Calfer & Colter, Marshall, Fouche, and other photogra- phers, have at various times visited the park, taking and widely dissemi- nating interesting views of the great falls, geysers, hot-spring terraces, and other wonders of the park. During all these years of exploration and research, so far as I am aware, the wisdom of Congress in promptly dedicating the National Park has never been seriously questioned; nor has its size, or its appropri. ate control by the Secretary of the Interior, or his rules and regulations for its protection and management, been deemed objectionable. Hence it is not what Congress has done, but what it so long neglected to do ;:. not the dedication of a lofty mountain-girt lava region destitute of val- uable minerals, isolated and worthless for all else, but matchless and invaluable as a field for scientists and a national health and pleasure re- sort for our people, but rather the failure to make moderate appropria- tions for its protection and improvement until leases could be made to assist in rendering it self-sustaining, which compelled its first superin- tendent, N. P. Langford, to abandon all efforts for its protection, and so long allowed destructive forest fires, the wanton slaughter of its inter- esting and valuable animals, and constant and nearly irreparable van- dalism of many of its prominent wonders. So uniform was the testimony of the civil and military officers of the government, as well as the Amer- ican and European scientists and tourists who visited the park, and so strong their appeals to the nation for its protection, or at least the send- ing a commissioner or an agent specially empowered to investigate and report the facts, that among the early acts of the present honorable Secretary of the Interior was my appointment as superintendent of the park and special agent to again visit it and report the facts as I should then find them for the information of himself and Congress. But for want of funds available for my salary or expenses none were furnished or even promised, other than a reliance upon Congress to make provis- ion to properly pay for performance of duties pointed out and positively required of the Secretary of the Interior in the act dedicating the park. This will, I think, appear clearly evident by perusal of the following copy of the act of dedication, the rules and regulations of the Secretary of the Interior, and my appeals to the mountaineers as published in No. 62 of the Norris Suburban, several hundred copies of which were gratuitously distributed throughout the regions adjacent to the park during the spring of 1877. AY ACT to set apart a certain tract of lanul lying near the head waters of the Yellowstono River as a public park. Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United States of America in Congress assembled, That the tract. of land in the Territories of Montana and Wyoming lying near the headwaters of the Yellowstone River, and described as follows, to wit: commencing at the junction of Gardiner's River with the Yellowstone River and run- ning east to the meridian passing ten miles to the eastward of the most eastern point of Yellowstone Lake; thence south along the said meridian to the parallel of latitude passing ten miles south of the most southern point of Yellowstone Lake; thence west along said parallel to the meridian passing fifteen miles west of the most western point of Madison Lake; thence north along said meridian to the latitude of the junction of the Yellowstone and Gardiner's Rivers; thence east to the place of beginning, is hereby reserved and withdrawn from settlement, occupancy, or sale under the laws of the United States, and dedicated and set apart as a public park or pleasure ground for the benefit and enjoyment of the people; and all persons who shall locate, settle upon, or occupy the same or any part thereof, except as hereinafter provided, shall be consid- ered trespassers and removed therefrom. SEC. 2. That said public park shall be under the exclusive control of the Secretary of the Interior, whose duty it shall be, as soon as practicable, to make and publish such rules and regulations as he may deem necessary or propor for the care and manage- ment of the samo. Such regulations shall provide for the preservation from injury or YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 17 spoliation of all timber, mineral deposits, natural curiosities, or wonders within said park, and their retention in their natural condition. The Secretary may, in his discretion grant leases for building purposes for terms not exceeding ten years, of small parcels of ground, at such places in said park as shall require the erection of buildings for the accommodation of visitors; all of the proceeds of said leases, and all other revenues that may be derived from any source connected with said park, to be expended under his direction in the management of the same and the construction of roads and bridle-paths therein. He shall provide against the wanton destruction of the fish and game found within said park and against their cap- ture or destruction for the purposes of merchandise or profit. He shall also cause all persons trespassing upon the same after the passage of this act, to be removed there- from, and generally shall be authorized to take all such measures as shall be necessary or proper to fully carry out the objects and purposes of this act. Approved March 1, 1872. (See Revised Statutes of the United States, page 453.) RULES AND REGULATIONS. 1st. All hunting, fishing, or trapping within the limits of the Park, except for pur- poses of recreation, or to supply food for visitors or actual residents, is strictly prohib- ited; and no sales of fish or game taken within the park shall be made outside of its boundaries. 2d. Persons residing within the park, or visiting it for any purpose whatever, are required under severe penalties to extinguish all fires which it may be necessary to make, before leaving them. No fires must be made within the park except for neces- sary purposes. . 38. No timber must be cut in the park without a written permit from the superin- tendent. 4th. Breaking the siliceous or calcareous borders or deposits surrounding or in the vicinity of the springs or geysers for any purpose, and all removal, carrying away, or sale of specimens found within the park, without the consent of the superintendent, is strictly prohibited. 5th. No person will be permitted to reside permanently within the limit of the park without permission from the Department of the Interior, and any person now living within the park shall vacate the premises occupied by him within thirty days after hav- ing been served with a written notice so to do, by the superintendent or his deputy, said notice to be served upon him in person or left at his place of residence. To whom it may concern : Under the above laws, rules, and regulations, and my peculiar circumstances of health, long acquaintance, and business interest in those regions, I have accepted the responsible, but as yet neither lucrative nor desirable position of superintendent of the Yellowstone National Park. Have appointed J. C. McCartney, esq., proprietor of the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, assistant until my arrival via the Yellowstone River route, I trust in June, unless delayed by the Indians. Meanwhile, bona-fide occupants of buildings, bridges, mines, &c., will, by due regard for the above rules and the future interests of the public in the park, be allowed quietly to remain. The outburst of national enthusiasm at discovery of the matchless wonders of the firehole and geyser basins, amid the Rocky Mountains, secured their prompt dedication as a national park for the weary and worn business man, the tour- ist, and the scientist forever; also, provision for the appointment of a superintendent under proper rules and instructions, but not the necessary appropriations to reward the one for the enforcement of the other. My predecessor, Mr. N. P. Langford, did all and more than proper to expect under the circumstances while in Montana, but with his return East all restraint ceased, and for fully two years, careless use of fire, wanton slaughter of rare and valuable animals, and vandalism of matchless wonders have, as so truthfully published in letters of my- self and others, been doing irreparable injury in all the explored portions of the park. Under these peculiar circumstances, in the interest of science and of the tourist now and in the future, the welfare and good fame of the people of Montana, Utah, and Wyoming in general, and especially to my old mountain comrades and friends, do I most earnestly appeal, to abstain, and use all influence in urging others to desist from future vandalism of all kinds in the lofty, romantic “wonder-land.” With the closing of the Sioux war, extension of the Northern Pacific Railroad, open- ing of the Yellowstone natural route, and the Big Horn Mountains for explorations of their vast gold and silver mines, and influx of sturdy miners and herdsmen, will soon gather wealth, build towns, and open safe and convenient routes of access to this now isolated, little known, but matchless national heritage of wonders. 2 NP 18 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. That the spirit in which I write and act in this matter may extend to the press and the people of those mountain regions and the tourists who visit them is my ardent desire. P. W. NORRIS, Superintendent of the Yellowstone National Park. NOTE.-The boundaries of the park have never been surveyed, but they are mainly crests of snow-capped basaltic mountains encircling the wonder-land of cataracts, canons, firehole basins, geysers, salses, fumeroles, &c., unique and matchless, with entire area from 50 to 75 miles square. N. These rules and regulations are those adopted by the Hon. C. Delano, Secretary of the Interior, at the dedication of the park. Under these circumstances I ascended the Yellowstone, visited most of the park and its routes of access, including the exploring of an im- portant cut-off route; and, too seriously injured at Tower Falls to other- wise return, descended the Yellowstone from above the gate of the mountain in a skiff, and reported facts and suggestions which were merged in the honorable Secretary's report of 1877, part first, page 837, and also deemed worth a publication in pamphlet form. (See Report of the Superintendent of the Yellowstone National Park for 1877.) After a long and careful investigation of the whole subject, and in consideration of the written opinions of the prominent scientists and explorers of our country, this cautious and prudent Congress at its first session, with a flattering unanimity, made an appropriation of $10,000 for the protection and improvement of the park. For an account of my expenditure thereof reference is respectfully made to the appropriate chapter of this report and attached map of the park. In addition thereto I may justly add that/unlike General Sherman in his tour of the park just in advance of last year's raid of the hostile Nez Percés, and General Howard in their pursuit, without roads—Generals Miles and Brisbin, in their military operations of this year, as well as the various parties of Professor Hayden's geological survey, the Ber- thold party of engineers in running a line for a branch of the Utah Northern Railroad, from Henry's Lake to the upper geysers, as well as many parties of tourists, have utilized my roads and other improvements as fast as made, thus opportunely rendering them of present as well as future convenience and benefit. With the expeditions of Generals Miles and Brisbin were Colonel Baker, Captains Baldwin and Egan, Lieuten- ants Douglas, Pope, Long, and other battle-scarred veterans of the In- dian wars; Mrs. General Miles, sister of the wife of Senator Cameron, of Pennsylvania, and other ladies of distinction; the Rev. Dr. Hoyt, of Brooklyn, N. Y., and other prominent speakers and journalists. Besides these, Lord Stanley, English; Colonels Schultz and Koster, German; and many parties of American tourists, despite the Bannock raids, safely visited the park during the past season. The unanimous testimony of this long list of civil and military officers or agents of the government, and the scientists and tourists of our own and other lands, proves the Yellowstone National Park one of surpassing interest, a con- centration of petrified forests and balmy groves, of lovely lakes, match- less falls, and yawning cañons; of azure pools and spouting geysers, unique and unrivaled—truly the peerless cliff and snow encircled won- der-land of earth, well worthy the fostering hand of the representatives of our people, whose priceless heritage it is. P. W. NORRIS, Superintendent of Yellowstone National Park. Hon. CARL SCHURZ, Secretary of the Interior, Washington, D. C. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK.. 19 . APPENDIX. Summary of weather reports kept in the Yellowstone National Park during the season of 1878. That portion of July which was taken would average, at sunrise, 570-; at midday, . 800, and at sunset, 740. . The month of August, the morning average was 44°, and ranging from 320 to 600; at noon, average 78°, ranging from 620 to 880; at sunset, average 64°, ranging from 480 ..to 820. The month of September, the average at sunrise, 390, ranging from 240 to 600; at midday, average 610, ranging from 380 to 780; at sunset, average 51°, ranging from 360 to 740. The first fifteen days in October average, sunrise, 41°, ranging from 240 to 540; mid- day, average 570, ranging from 460 to 700; and at sunset, average 510, ranging from 420 to 600. Routes and distances to the Park. The following facts and suggestions will be of practical interest to our people in reference to the only two present or prospective routes of access to their heritage of wonders in the Great National Park. These are the northern or Yellowstone, and the southern or railroad, and as Oinaha and Bismarck alike possess the advantages of Missouri River navigation and direct railroad connection with all portions of our country, they may be properly deemed starting points upon their respective routes., The northern route from Bismarck is still the natural one, by steamboat up the Missouri, 400 miles; the Yellowstone 360, to the mouth of the Big Horn, and prob- ably some 60 further that of Clark's Fork; and by coach 160 miles to Bozeman, the main town and outfitting point of those regions. Thence it is by coach 72 miles to the Mammoth Hot Springs, within the Park-from Bismarck, distance 1,050 miles; time ascending, 12 or 14 days; descending, much less; expenses, about $100." The southern route is by the Union Pacific Railroad from Omaha’to Ogden, near Salt Lake, 1,033 miles; Utah Northern to Port Neuf Cañon, near Snake River, 150 miles; coach' via Pleasant Valley and Virginia City, 380 miles to Bozeman, and 72 miles to the Park, or an aggregate of 1,635 miles; time, 10 days; expenses, $200. A saving of 30 miles can be made in the Yellowstone route by following it through the Gate of the Mountains instead of via Bozeman; and considerable time, distance, and expense upon the southern route by entering the Park from Virginia City, 90 miles from Bozeman. With little doubt both these routes will be materially shortened during the coming season: the southern, by extension of the railroad 70 miles to the crossing of Snake River at Eagle Rock, then coach some 150 miles via Henry's Fork and Lake to the Lower Geyser Basin within the Park, some 50 miles nearly south by the road this year constructed from the Mammoth Hot Springs. By the anticipated construction of the Northern Pacific Railroad from Bismarck to the Yellowstone, near the mouth of Powder River, some 600 miles of river route will be exchanged for 250 of railroad; the routes then standing approximately: Northern-Bismarck to the Mam- moth Hot Springs, distance 700 miles; time, 8 days; expenses, $60. Southern--Omaha to the Lower Geyser Basin, distance 1,400 miles ; time, 6 days; expenses, $100; show- ing that, as now, one route requires the most time, and the other the most money; but practically tourists should go one route and return the other. Routes within the Park. ROAD TO THE GEYSERS. Between points. Total. Miles. Miles. 28 Mammoth Hot Springs to summit of the Terraces Obsidian Cañon ........... Norris Geyser Plateau... Falls of the Gibbon... Howard's road junction with southern route. Lower Geyser Basin.... Midway Geyser Basin..... end of all road at the Upper Geyser Basin .. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. ROAD TO THE GEYSERS. Between points.. Total. Miles. Miles. U ............. ... .... MOUNT WASHBURN TRAIL VIA THE GREAT FALLS AND LAKE. Mammoth Hot Springs to the Forks of the Gardiner. Cañon and Falls of the East Gardiner . · Black-tail Pond .... Devil's Cut, or Dry Cañon ..... Forks of the Yellowstone....... Tower Creek Falls............ Old Ruin. Pass in east spur of Mount Washburn brink of the Grand Cañon ....... Great Falls of the Yellowstone .. Sulphur Mountain ............. Mud Volcano foot of Yellowstone Lake...... return to Mud Volcano Mary's Lake.. Lower Fire-Hole Basin Upper Fire-Hole Basin. .................. 8 80000 A Coco C Co Otero og ... . ...:- A trail is greatly needed from the Upper Fire-Hole Basin to those of Shoshone, Lewis, and Heart Lakes, and those upon the fingers and eastern shore of the Yellow- stone, some 100 miles in length, and the Pelican Creek route of 35 miles to the East Fork of the Yellowstone, at the mouth of the Soda Butte. As the very limited building accommodations at the Mammoth Hot Springs are all which are likely to be found in or near the Park the coming season, tourists should outfit at Ogden, Bozeman, or Virginia City, or, if reaching the Park by coach, excel- lent sąddle and pack animals will be abundant at $1; guide and packer, $2 each per day. Timo actually necessary for a tour of the main wonders of the Park, ten days; twice that more enjoyable; and August the best month, although July is only marred by flies, which nearly devour the animals; September good, except a severe equinoctial storm; and October, save deep snows in the passes. The best plan is to make the Park the main object and turning-point in a season's rambles, visiting both the Salt Lake and the Yellowstone Valley regions upon the out- ward or return routes. There is now all promise of a summer post for protection from Indians, if necessary : w . . - 1. 722 467 Report of OF The Acting Superintendent OF THE Yellowstone National Park TO THE Secretary of the Interior. 1895. WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 1895. Report OF u.s. The Acting Superintendent OF THE Yellowstone National Park TO THE Secretary of the Interior. 1895. WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 1895. Ꭱ E Ꮲ 0 Ꭱ Ꭲ OF THE W TEN ACTING SUPERINTENDENT OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. HUIIN 11 DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR, OFFICE OF THE SUPERINTENDENT YELLOWSTUNE NATIONAL PARK, Mammoth Hot Springs, Wyo., July 25, 1895. SIR: Complying with your request of the 1st instant, I submit a report of operations and events in the Yellowstone National Park dur- ing the last fiscal year. Beginning my fifth annual report, I wish to make a résumé of the improvements in the Park since my arrival here in February, 1891. The Yellowstone Park Association has added a hotel near the Foun. tain Geyser, which is the largest and best of their buildings. The log buildings which constituted their hotel at the Lower Basin have been removed. The old hotel at Norris was consumed by fire, and the lunch station at that place has, since the spring of 1892, been conducted under canvas. In November of last year the old hotel at the Upper Geyser Basin was destroyed by fire. It has been replaced by a temporary structure better adapted than was the old one for the purposes of a lunch station, but without the means of accommodating tourists over night. The new transportation company, which succeeded the old one in the spring of 1892, has added somewhat to their plant, and at every station the company has improved its buildings. The road system has been extended to make possible a tour from the lake to the Upper Basin without passing over any portion of the route a second time. At Mammoth Hot Springs a new post has been built to accommodate one troop of cavalry, with the necessary administrative buildings. Nearly a mile of board sidewalk has been laid connecting the principal buildings of the post with the hotel. In addition to this, many minor improvements have been made, which will find notice in subsequent parts of the report. The prediction made in my last report of the complete failure of travel during the balance of the season was abundantly verified. Tours which may have been planned and arranged for before the railroad strike were probably abandoned before the strike was over, and the season continued to the end the poorest ever known in the history of the Park. The past winter was exceedingly mild and there was but little snow fall. As a consequence, it was possible to make a complete tour of the Park at the opening of the season, June 1, a thing never before known. 3 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. All the hotels were on that date ready to receive and accommodate guests. From all sources came abundant promise of heavy travel, but for some reason this promise has failed of fulfillment. The record of tourists from 1890 to date will show how great is the falling off. The number during Jure of this year registering at the hotels for the complete tour is but 100 greater than last year, when travel was paralyzed by the financial depression, the washouts on the railroad, and the strikes which prevented the movement of trains. Record of tourists, 1890–1895. Month. 1890. | 1891. | 1892. 1893. 1894. 1895. Juno. July ...... August... September .... 508 1,400 1, 284 712 527 1, 016 1, 225 809 718 : 849 1, 495 583 832 752 786 320 263 735 317 426 956 1, 088 706 ........ Total 3,904 3,577 | 3,645 3,076 1, 635 2, 470 It is not easy to assign a reason for the diminished travel through the Park, where there are so many wonders and beauties to be seen and where so much is done for the accommodation and comfort of the traveler. It is certain that the volume of travel to Europe is con- stantly increasing, while that to the Park is barely holding its own, or even going backward. We are constantly informed by visitors that they had no idea of what there was to be seen here; how many attrac- tious the Park trip presented, or how many superior accommodations were offered them. In Germany much of what the Park contains is taught in the public schools, while in this country but little is known of it, even to the educated and the well informed. I would again suggest that some means be adopted for bringing the mass of the people to realize what a store of wonders and beauties they have within their boundaries. It would be valuable to them as a part of an education, even if they should not be able to see the Park for themselves. As will be seen by the table printed, there were 1,635 tourists who last year made the regular trip, stopping at the hotels. From my sys- tem of registry I estimate that there were 1,470 who went through in camping parties with their own or hired transportation for some kind of trip, either longer or shorter than the regular tour. These camping parties have commenced earlier than usual this year, and there is pros- pect of greatly increased travel in this way. The system of registry established last year has enabled me to keep better account of them and to watch them more closely, and the result has been that I have suffered less from the annoyances that I then complained of. LEASES. Under the law of last year new.leases have been granted to the Yel- lowstone Park Association for the sites occupied by it at the Mammoth Hot Springs, at the Fountain, at the Lake, and at the Canyon, and the old leases held at these places were surrendered. Surveys were also made of sites at Norris, the Upper Basin, the Thumb, and at Tower Creek. I believe it is the intention of the association to ask for leases : at these points as soon as business will warraut it in erecting stiuctures there for the accommodation of travelers. The passage of this law has extetided to 20 acres the limit which may be held under lease by any YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. O corporation or individual, and has diminished to one-eighth of a mile the distance by which leased ground must be separated from any object of interest. As thus modified it is a great improvement on the old law, and surely at no distant time will be taken advantage of by the Yellow- stone Park Association, or some other corporation willing and able to expend the necessary funds. No action has yet been taken on my recommendation, several times repeated, that the Government acquire the two frame cottages owned by the Yellowstone Park Association at the Lower Basin.. They are of absolutely no use to the association at the present time, and are much needed for the accommodation of troops that are camped near them every summer and probably will be so quartered for many seasons to conie. A lease for premises to be occupied as a store and post-office by Mrs. Ash has been authorized, and, I presume, will soon be issued. The plans for the building have been forwarded approved. The site is inid- way between the Mammoth Hotel and the Cottage. A store such as Mrs. Ash proposes to keep is quite a necessity here, as without it there is no place nearer than Gardiner where notions and small articles so necessary to travelers can be procured, and even there the stock is meager and not wholly adapted to the needs of tourists. A lease has also been authorized for a plat of ground on which Mr. Ole A. Anderson proposes to erect a neat building in which to conduct the business of coating specimens. This will be situated midway between the Cottage Hotel and the building erected last year as a jail, and used also as a residence by the United States commissioner. For this latter building the Government appropriated $5,000.. The contract was awarded late in July, and the building was finished in time for occu- pancy in the early autumn. It is a substantial, well-constructed, secure building and the only one in the Park built of stone. It is situated about 150 yards from the Liberty Cap and about the same distance from the old McCartney building, and at the base of the hill which skirts the Cottage Hotel. Mr. Anderson's lease covers the ground now occupied by his tents. As soon as Mrs. Ash shall have constructed the building on the ground leased by her I shall expect her to reinove the old unsightly log building which now serves her as a residence, store, and post-office. The transfer by Mr. French of his interest in the property near Yan- cey's and at Soda Butte to his successor as mail carrier has received the approval of the Department. These buildings are now occupied by Mr. Roseborough. I have also permitted him to erect a small building at the Mammoth Hot Springs to be used in connection with his mail contract, to be removed at any time when so ordered by the acting superiutendent. The old trouble concerning licenses granted to outside parties to carry tourists through the Park has not been renewed this year, on account of the wise decision of the Department to only permit such licensees to con- duct camping parties. Such licenses have been granted to twelve dif- ferent parties for from two to five vehicles each, and all seem to be doing a fairly prosperous business. I doubt not that there will be many more applications of this kind received, as the season for camping parties is not yet fairly on. Bassett Brothers have a license for ten wagons, but their route connects with the Utah and Northern Railroad at Beaver Canyon and is over a field not covered by the regular company's coaches, so they in no way interfere, and they are permitted to take passengers to the hotels. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. It is a pleasure to note that the various bills for the segregation and dismemberment of the Park were killed in the last Congress through the adverse report of the Secretary of the Interior, in which the coin- mittees concurred. It is to be hoped that this wise course will be pur- sued by coming Congresses, as all such bills are directed to personal gain and not to public interest. It is not known here what action has been taken in regard to the payment of Mr. Gallagher for his survey of the boundary of the timber reserve. It is certain, however, that his work has no value. 'He neither began at the initial point of any one of the lines nor did he con- spicuously mark these lines. The greatest need of the Park at the present time is that these lines be run with accuracy and be so marked that they would be instantly discoverable by any person who might cross them. So long as the law of the 7th of May, 1894, does not extend to the timber reserve, I would urge that means be taken to sur- vey and locate the lines of the Park itself. While the Park regulations are made to cover the tiinber reserve, there are no penalties attached to violations of them outside of the Park boundaries proper. I suggest that an effort be made to have a bill passed at the coming session of Congress extending the provisions of this most satisfactory law to the timber reserve. Two years ago an accurate determination of latitude and longitude was made at a point near the lake outlet by parties sent out by the Coast Survey. No report has yet been received of the result of these observations. I would request to be informed of the correct latitude and longitude of this point, in order that they may be inscribed on the monument already erected there. As this monument is plainly visible from all the distant peaks surrounding the lake, it will be easy to con- duct a system of triangulation and accurately locate the lines of the Park astronomically. I would also suggest that monuments be author- ized at the easternmost point of the Yellowstone Lake, its most south- erly point, and the westerly point of Shoshone Lake, as these are by law the initial points of three of the boundaries of the Park. There will be small expense attached to monumenting these points, and they will serve a definite purpose in properly fixing the lines. I would also endeavor to have inscribed on the monument spoken of the correct altitude of that point, based on a series of levels connecting with the Northern Pacific Railroad survey at Cinnabar. 1111 PROTECTION OF FORESTS. I have heretofore gone into the subject of protection of forests at such length as to leave but little to say at this time. Last season was noted for the frequency of light rains, which no doubt aided in the preven- tion of fires. I have once more to report that none of any material consequence occurred during the entire year. I have, therefore, but the one serious fire of July, 1893, to report as occurring since my arrival, and that one I find upon careful examination to have been much less extensive than previously reported. The system of daily patrols from my numerous outposts has done much to prevent fires. My rule is to have a man start every morning from each of these stations, carrying with him a bucket and a shovel with which to thoroughly extinguish any smoldering embers that may be found in the abandoned camps of tourists. These patrols continue on their way until they meet similar patrols from the neighboring station, when, after a short halt, they retrace their steps in the afternoon to their own proper home. In this way YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. many serious fires are undoubtedly prevented, and to the thoroughness of the system I feel sure most of the good results are due. Whenever camping parties, by their carelessness, leave fires which endanger the forests, arrests are promptly made and the parties brought into this station, where they are tried by the United States commissioner for viola- tion of the Park regulations. Convictions had are freely talked of among the tourists, with the result of making subsequent parties more careful. There have already been twelve convictions for violations of the law of May 7, 1894. OUTPOSTS. The work done by the patrols from the various outposts that I have established has continued to give the greatest satisfaction. The duty is hard, involving much riding in summer, exposure to heat and to cold, much snowshoe work in winter, and the incurring of many dan- gers. I find the freedom and the ease of the life makes this duty very popular with the better class of soldiers, and I have no difficulty in obtaining from the best of men applications for this sort of service. I have not established any new stations for summer service, but during last winter I added one, which was occupied by a sergeant and three men near the Mud Geyser. The object of this new station was the protection of the bison that winter in the Hayden Valley, In my last report I noted the death of Private Mathews, of Troop D, Sixth Cavalry, while on detached service from the Riverside Station, going to the Lower Basin for the mail. A most thorough search for his remains was continued for at least six months after his disappear- ance. His body was found early in June of this year on the south side of the Gibbon River, about 3 miles from its junction with the Firehole. It was evident that he became lost, and while in that con- dition became crazed and perished from cold. . For this season's work I have been authorized to expend a portion of the appropriation for Park improvement in the employment of addi- tional scouts. As soon as the poaching season fairly begins, I will make such use of this fund as I feel sure will result in important cap- tures, and a few convictions will have a most salutary effect upon game protection. MILITARY POST. Although there have been no important additions to the military post, yet many small improvements have been made, and the buildings now constitute a sightly group, as viewed from the porch of the Mam- moth Hot Springs Hotel. It is especially desirable that accommodations for an extra company should be erected at the new post. If it be not found practicable to obtain sufficient funds for the completion of all these buildings within one year, I would urge that at least the barracks for the soldiers and the stables for the horses be erected at once, while the quarters for the officers may await a further allotment. ROADS, Soon after my last report was rendered, the control and management of the road work were turned over to me by an order from the Secretary of War. It was then too late in the season to inaugurate any extensive system of road building. Repairs, resulting in material betterment, · were, however, instituted. The arch bridge near the Upper Falls of the Yellowstone was completed, and the road at that point thus made pass- YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. able for travel, but not before the end of the tourist season. The road at the foot of the Virginia Cascade, which had entirely washed out in the spring of last year, was put in a condition to withstand any rise in the water that the springtime might bring. About 2 miles of road in the Gibbon Canyon, which had so washed out as to be almost impass- able, were put in a thorough state of repair. A mile of new road was built between here and Gardiner, replacing the old road, which was rendered impassable by the destruction of the bridge over the Gardiner River about a mile and a half below here. By this new road the heavy grades of the old one are entirely avoided, and the experience of this season has shown that it is a much superior thoroughfare. With the beginning of this season I began work in earnest on the road system. My first object was to put the roads in a thorough state of repair. To this end I made a liberal use of the road machine, filling up the ruts cut by heavy freight wagons in the wet and softened road bed. Following these machines was a man who removed from the track all small stones which were found there, thus saving the jolt caused by them. This, in many places, at small expense, converted a very bad road into a good one. A new road of full width and easy grades has been constructed down the brink of the Grand Canyon from a point over the Lower Falls to Inspiration Point. I have also had protecting railings put on both Point Lookout and Inspiration Point. The trails leading down to the Lower Falls have been improved, and the dangerous places guarded by hand rails. A new road has been finished from a point on the old road just south of the Alum Creek Bridge, passing round Sulphur Moun. tain, and joining the old road again near Antelope Creek. A roadway has been opened from the Lake Hotel to the Natural Bridge, so that it now is passable for light wagons. A crew has been working for about a week on the road which was projected along the shore of the lake, near the Thumb, but not heretofore completed. As about 2 miles of this part of the road is very heavy from the covering of loose beach sand, I shall have to surface it with some clayey material, which will not be an inexpensive piece of work. I hope, however, to have it com- pleted within a few days. The road from the Old Faithful to the Upper Crossing of the Firehole has been remade, and a driveway to the Lone Star Geyser opened. I have also made a road passable from the Foun- tain Hotel around the Constant, or Black Warrior Geyser, and back by way of the Great Fountain. A bridge will soon be coinpleted over the Fireliole River just south of the Excelsior Geyser, permitting teams to cross the river at this point and join the direct road in the edge of the woods opposite. A bridge has also been constructed at the old ford vear the mouth of the Gibbon Canyon. I have located a new road connecting a point on the old road at the top of the hill beyond the Gibbon Canyon with the same road on the flat about a inile north of the Firehole cottages. This road is already completed for more than half its length, ard by August 1 I hope to have it in use. I will also connect this road at its nearest point with the road down the Madison, at the junction of the Gibbon and the Firehole. The balance of this road down the Madisou Canyon I shall survey this year, but will leave the construction of it for another season. In a few days a surveying party will proceed down the Snake River to complete the roadway to Jackson Lake, begun two years ago. As soon as the surveying party can be spared from this last-named work it will be put to work locating the proposed road from the Grand Canyon to Yanceys, over Mount Washburn, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. When some of the crews now engaged in road repairs can be spared from that work, I shall place them on the road near Cooke City to open out and improve the road in that vicinity. All of this work is done under the direction of the Secretary of War, but I embody a mention of it in this report in order that you may be informed of the progress made. Of one thing I feel certain, and that is, that the transfer of the control of the road work from a nonresident officer to the acting superintendent has resulted in great saving of appropriation and in much improvement to the roads. HOTELS. Mr. J. H. Dean continues to manage the hotels for the Park Associa- tion in the same manner as for the last three years. The high standard set by him has not been lowered, but rather improved. Throughout they are neat, clean, and excellently managed. He deserves the greatest praise for the manner in which they have been conducted. The rates, which were $5 per day last year, have been lowered to $4 for this year, with a reduction to $3 after a seven days stay in the Park. Of course there is an urgent need of a hotel to accommodate tourists at the Upper Geyser Basin, but so long as this property has failed to be remunera- tive I see but little chance of obtaining the much-desired improvement. A hotel containing a few rooms should also be erected at Norris, and when the road over Mount Washburn is completed a hotel near the . mouth of Tower Creek will be a necessity. TRANSPORTATION. The only change to be noted in the transportation is the refusal of the Department to grant licenses to any but the Park Transportation Com- pany to take tourists to the hotels. Many licenses are issued, but they are all, except the Bassett Bros., restricted to camping parties. So long as the regular company maintains its very bigh standard of excel- lence, it is right and proper that it should be protected in this manner. It has, and is required to have, an expensive plant, always ready to accommodate the greatest volume of travel. Its whole equipment of horses, harness, vehicles, and drivers is of the best. It has a large sum of money invested in this plant and is under bonds to the Govern- ment for the faithful execution of its lease and contract. The fact that its prices are fixed by the Department makes it impossible for just com- plaint of it as having a monopoly. During all of last year the travel was so slight as to make its business a losing one. Thus far this year it has not been much better, The satisfaction given by it has been so general, the fault found has been so small, that I am constrained to speak of it in the highest terms. So long as the company has not deemed it worth its while to · establish a line of coaches to Beaver Canyon, I have thought it best to offer the license over that route to the Bassett Bros., who have satis- factorily done the business for so many years, and they are at present conducting it under the old form of license, a form which is now only used in their case. One act of the transportation company has met with very general approval, and that is a very liberal extension of stop-over privileges. The company no longer makes an effort to dictate to any passenger by what route, by what means of conveyance, or during what hours he shall make the tour, no matter how impractical, inconvenient, or absurd the various requests may be. 10 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. One difficulty in regard to licensed transportation I have not been able to entirely overcome, and that is the hiring by tourists of vehicles from livery establish inents. It is often easy for them to pass through with such means of conveyance, claiming thein as their own. I have had less trouble than usual with camping parties leaving unsightly rubbish behind them in their abandoned camps. This is possibly due to the constant warning given them as they stop to register at the point where they enter the Park. The Boat Company this season is obtaining a large percentage of the travel. It enables parties to reach the Lake Hotel several hours earlier than they would if they remained in the stages, besides furnish- ing a delightful trip over one of the most beautiful sheets of water in the world. The boat is safe, is clean, and is capable of carrying as many passengers as will ever desire to use it, and is deserving of pat- ronage. The complaints that I have heard in regard to it are princi- pally with regard to high charge, which is unavoidable on account of the small amount of patronage and the great expense of conducting the enterprise. It is a pity that this boat can not be made a part of the regular Park transportation, and be used or not at the will of tourists, without extra expense. At present there seems no good way of accom- plishing this result. Mr. Waters, the manager of the Boat Company, is courteous and attentive to the wants and the interests of his passen- gers. The complaints against him are mostly from overcharge for damage done fishing tackle, and other minor items furnished by him. During the last year he has been granted a license by the Department to sell candies, nuts, and small groceries to camping parties, to do blacksmithing for the same, as well as to take parties to the Natural Bridge by vehicle or on horseback. It was quite necessary that some one should conduct these small enterprises at this point, and Mr. Waters seemed to be the only person desirous of undertaking them, and so far, I believe, has conducted them satisfactorily. FISHING. I have little to add to my previous reports on the subject of fishing in the Park. The enormous number taken here. by all parties who take the time to cast a line surpasses all belief. The plants of trout put by the Fish Commission in the Gardiner and Willow Creek, In the Firehole and the Nez Perces, now furnisb the rarest of sport to those wishing to try the brook trout, the Loch Leven, or the Von Behr. The plant made by the Fish Commission in Shoshone Creek two years ago has prospered, and the stream is now filled with small ones. The only plant that does not seem to have succeeded is that of the rainbow trout in the Gibbon River, above Virginia Cascade, An occasional fish is seen in this part of the river, but they are nearly all large, indicating that for some cause or other they have not propagated satis. factorily. The black bass sent out by the Commission in December, 1893, reached here at a time when the thermometer was 22 degrees below zero. By the time they reached Norris they were apparently all dead, but they were thrown into the Gibbon River at that point. I have recent reports from a crew building a bridge over the Gibbon near the mouth of the canyon that several had been seen at that point. I had hoped that they were all dead, as it was not my desire to have them in streams where trout either were, or might be planted. The plant of bass promised for last year was not sent, but about ten days ago five hundred were received at Cinnabar one morning at 11 O • YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 11 o'clock, and before night I had them distributed in the lakes which were their destination, more than 50 miles distant from the point where they were received from the car. Every one of this number was healthy and in good condition, and I have strong hopes of soon adding bass fishing to the other pleasures of the Park tour. Professor Jordan, who had already made several trips through the Park under the auspices of the Fish Commission, passed through last month as a tourist. He was much interested in the progress of the plant which he had been instrumental in making. He said that he · believed the large number of trout taken in the Yellowstone Lake did no harm and that those that remained were improved by it. The opin- ion of this high authority is conclusive as to the fact that there is no need of protection to fish in the lake and the waters of the Yellowstone. It has occurred to me that protection might be needed for those planted in the Gardiner and the Firehole. It is gratifying to note that they were more numerous this year than ever before in both these streams, but, inasmuch as the volume of tourist travel last year was small, perhaps some restrictive measures will be necessary in the future. I do not suggest a closed season, but rather that a regulation be made requiring all fish under a certain length to be returned to the stream. I suggest 6 inches as a minimum length for any fish permitted to be taken in the streams so stocked. Of course the plant of bass will be protected until they have sufficiently increased in numbers to permit of their being taken without endangering their numbers. WORK DONE. The work done within the Park during the past year has been con- fined principally to repairs and construction of roads; of this I have already spoken at some length. As it is now about the middle of the road-making season, it is not easy to exactly specify what has been done. A good deal of it is under way and in a more or less advanced stage of completion. Before the close of this season I wish to have the circuit of the roads as now traveled by tourists under complete construction. I shall also have a beginning made on the Madison Canyon road, and the balance of this road under survey. I shall make a beginning of 5 or 6 miles on the road near Cooke City, working this way. I shall also have opened a road down Snake River to connect with the Wyoming roads, already completed this side of Jacksons Lake as far as the Park line. Lack of funds will prevent my beginning construction of the road over Mount Washburn, but it will be carefully surveyed and the timber cut from at least a portion of it, and it will be ready for the graders when the next appropriation shall become avail- able. Until this road is finished it is useless to think of attempting to macadamize the present roads, unless Congress is far more liberal in its appropriations. If $100,000 were allowed each year for three years it is believed that the roads could be put in such shape that travelers would not be inconvenienced by either mud or dust, and the yearly amount required for repairs would be materially lessened. Until the surveys are completed and I have the reports of the engineers, I shall not be able to estimate the cost of the new roads still needed. POACHING. The act of May 7, 1894, seems to have had a most healthy effect upon the poachers who surround and prey upon the Park. I believe that those of the north, the east, and the south sides have nearly or quite 12: YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. . - - - - ceased troubling it. I can not say as much as this for the Idaho border. There is a section of country beginning at Henrys Lake and extending south for about 25 miles inhabited by a merciless and persistent lot of head and skin hunters. In most civilized countries the occupation of such vandals as these is held in merited contempt, but it is not so in the region of which I have made mention. The laws of Idaho are extremely deficient in game protective measures. I believe it is a fact that the bison, 110W so nearly extinct, is not protected at all. So long as the only herd of wild bison now existing in the United States is on the border of this State, liable at any time to cross within its dominion, it would seem that the State would pass the laws necessary to protect them with the most vigorous of punishments. Extended inquiry into various rumors of the killing of bison, either in the Park near the Idaho line or across it within that State, has convinced me that this last remaining herd is in danger of extinction by these people of whom I have made mention. I have good evidence of the killing of at least ten less than two years ago near the State line, but probably outside the Park. This was prior to the passage of the protection act, which has nearly put an end to depredations within the Park. I have undoubted evidence of the capture of three calves this spring by a resi- dent of Henrys Lake. He claims that this capture was made outside the Park. There are rumors of a herd of nearly one hundred having been seen in Idaho outside the Park within the last two or three months. The Park act can afford no protection to these animals after they cross its boundary. I trust every influence will be brought to bear to induce the Idaho authorities to pass a protective law, and to this end I will exert my best endeavor. A single conviction of a poacher under the law of May 7, 1894, will act as a powerful deterrent on these criminals, and I have no doubt will go far toward settling the question of incursions by depredators for all time. The only other way in which the Park is liable to be troubled by poachers is in the capture of the fur-bearing animals. It is so easy to place poison or set traps where the eye of the most expert scout can not find them; it is so easy to pack the pelts out of the Park without detection, that it has seemed to me one of the most difficult problems that I have been called upon to handle. Of course the constant system of patrols has done inuch to enforce the law and the regulations on this subject, and I am pleased to state that the effect has been the best. Evidences multiply on all hands of the constant increase of all of these animals. Four years ago I considered the extinction of the beaver imminent. I now find them multiplied many fold in all of the suitable streams in the Park. Of course some of them fall a victim to the trap- pers who hang around the borders, but the large central area of the Park is as thoroughly protected as though poachers were nonexistent. T'he few elk, deer, antelope, bear, etc., that may fall victims to the hunter's rifle within the Park limits will not in any material sense diminish their numbers, and except, as a matter of example, it would not be worth the trouble of pursuing the poacher who confines his depredations to this kind of game. GAME. Last winter there was less snow than ever before known within the Park. It was possible for the larger game, such as bison and elk, to pass at will over most parts of it during the entire winter. For that . 13 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. reason, perhaps, the bison that have heretofore wintered in the Hay- den Valley were not massed there this year. The most seen there in a single bunch at any one time was about thirty. Small herds of from three or four to ten were seen in widely separated localities where they have not usually wintered. I feel sure that many of them did not leave their summer range along the Idaho line. How many of them may have been killed or captured I can not determine, but I fear that their number has not increased, although I am still disposed to adhere to my estimate of last year that two hundred still remain. There has been placed at my disposal by Professor Langley, of the Smithsonian Institu- tion, $3,000 with which to build an inclosure and provide food for so many as can be driven within it during the coming winter. If this plan should succeed we will be able to retain a small herd and keep them nearly in a state of nature. I hope to have this inclosure built by the middle of September. On account of the mildness of the winter and the early disappear- ance of the snow it was a particularly favorable season for the rearing of young, and all of the wild animals seen this spring are accompanied by an exceptional number of vigorous and healthy offspring. From reports received from the station on Snake River, it seems that the moose in that region are rapidly increasing. I have no doubt they are thoroughly protected, and in time will form an important element among the game preserved within the Park. Of the mountain sheep I have nothing new to report. Their summer habitat is not within my observation, but the usual herds wintered on Mount Everts and were seen almost daily by travelers on the road between here and Gardiner. . The elk have quite held their own or increased in numbers, and have been seen almost daily by tourists up to the present date. They exist within the Park in such great numbers that the question of their pres- ervation is not one that causes any concern. A succession of open winters like the last would possibly make them more numerous than the food supply could well support. That they breed and winter within the Park and wander outside of it to furnish sport for hunters is not an evil, and is perhaps one of the very excuses for game.protection within its limits. The antelope have increased very materially. Certainly eight hun- dred of them wintered on the flat this side of the town of Gardiner, where this most shy of all wild animals became nearly as tame as domestico cattle. The deer seein to have increased more rapidly than any other variety of gaine. I have seen within the last twelve months double the number that I have ever before seen in a similar period. During the winter and the early spring they wander unterrified over the grassy slopes at this point and pass within a few feet of the houses and barracks, exposed to the gaze of the officers and soldiers, without exhibiting the slightest fear. Bear are as plentiful and as tame as ever, visiting most of the hotels nightly, where they are a source of amuseinent and entertainment to the tourists. Although they have increased notably, I do not think it is desirable to diminish their numbers. They are not dangerous to human life, and the Park can well spare whatever of the other game they may consume for their sustenance. The only contributions made to the National Zoological Park at Wash- ington last year were ten beayer, a few of the sinaller animals, and some birds. This was, of course, largely due to the fact that I was uncertain 14 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. as to whether I would be permitted under the new law to capture and ship them. An affirmative decision on this point caine too late in the season to be of any value, for the young were then too large to be cap- tured. Iam arranging to make some captures for shipment this autumn. GEYSERS. I have had observations made on the eruptions of the geysers covering only such hours of the day as the men stationed thereat were on duty. Eruptions occurring during the night were, as a rule, not observed or included in the report I append for publication. A list of these obser- vations was made last season and published in my last report with a view of counteracting the prevailing opinion that there is a general law of periodicity in their action. Old Faithful, which years ago was carefully observed during all of its eruptions for nearly a month, was found to have a nearly uniform interval of about sixty-eight minutes. It is probable that this interval has slightly increased, but that it is still measurably uniform from one eruption to the next is quite certain. The Fountain Geyser also has a fairly regular action with an interval of about five hours at the present time. This interval seems to be dependent somewhat upon the surface-water supply, being greater in dry months late in the season than in the spring when the supply of surface water is larger. A fairly regular interval has also been noted for the Great Fountain. At the present time its interval is about eight hours. PROPRIETARY RIGHTS IN THE PARK. There are still three claims of private citizens for locations and improvements made within the Park limits before the act of dedication. These claims have all been made the subject of special legislation intro- duced in Congress, but have not so far become laws. The claim of Mr. J. C. Baronett is for a bridge built by him in 1871 over the Yellowstone River. The amount of the claim is $5,000. I do not regard this figure as excessive, and I recornmend that the passage of this act receive your approval. Mr. James C. McCartney has also a claim for $3,000 for improvements made at this point. It is reasonable and just, and I recommend it to your favorable consideration. Mr. Matthew McGuirk has a claim for $4,000. I do not believe his improvements were extensive enough to warrant the entire amount of this claim. I have considered the value of these improvements in a special report heretofore made to you. If his claim were reduced to a suitable amount, I would recommend that it receive your approval. If these bills should pass and the parties receive a proper remunera- tion for their improvements, it would remove from the Park limits the last vestige of proprietary interest. RECOMMENDATIONS. To make a résumé of the recommendations contained in this report, I would request: First. A special effort to obtain an accurate and complete survey of the boundaries, with a system of blazing or marking, so that they could be instantly recognized wherever crossed. Second. Liberal appropriations with which to complete the road sys- tem, as now approved, and for the most part under construction. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 15 Third. A continuance of these appropriations until the roads are put in such condition as to reduce to a minimum the trouble from mud and dust. Fourth. The addition to the military post of accommodations for another company. I wish to extend my thanks to all the officers on duty in the Park for intelligent and zealous assistance in all that tends to its welfare. I wish particularly to acknowledge my indebtedness to Capt. G. L. Scott for the valuable assistance rendered by him. The meteorological record kept under the direction of Surg. O. M. Gandy is appended, as is also a record of the geyser eruptions at the · Upper Basin, kept under the direction of Captain Scott. Yours, very respectfully, GEO. S. ANDERSON, Captain, Sixth Cavalry, Acting Supt. Yellowstone National Park. The SECRETARY OF THE INTERIOR. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. METEOROLOGICAL RECORD. JULY, 1894. AUGUST, 1894. SEPTEMBER, 1894. Date. Maximum. Mininium. Precipita- tion. Date. Remarks. Winds. Range. Maximum. Minimum. Remarks. 'spu! M Date. Precipita- tion. Range. Maximum Minimum. Remarks. Range. Winds. Precipita- tion. E W 76 0.02 76 1 W . .03 UtA ONE 79 12 4.... Rain.' Hain. Rain. Rain. 46 19 .01 ..05 1 5..... 81 50 0.03 Rain. .04 Raiu. SW. SW. 13 SW. | .07 Rain. NW... W. l.. W . .. . 78 Rain. ed • 51 78 51 44 9... 24. S. S\. Rain. 10 . Rain. NEC .08 Rain. 11. 12.. 13.. 51 Rain. 42 0..... 7..... 8... 9 .... 10... 11... 12..... 13..... 14..... 15.. 16... 17... 18..... 19..... 20..... 21..... .01 Rain. .04 Į Rain. 16 Rain, 12. 13..... 14..... 15..... 16... 14..... 50 40 கதகககககக ககககககக்கம் தங்கள் 10 E. E. SE. N. 54 47 W .01 Rain. 55 40 11 NW. INW. Bubovice u benin Bernici viviuosiuntivi rivities 60 17... 18.. li 15... 16..... 1 17.... 18... 19..... 20..... 72 19.. 68 20..... 21 Rain. 21. so 53 15 22... 38 2012 15 .03 Rain. 38 36 Z E viuzzzzuUEEZEE 16 233..... 24..... 25... 24.. 38 52 53 26..... S. į SW. W. SW. .02 Rain, . 10 Rain. .. . .20 Rain. 42 42 28. 22 INW. 22 Rain. 11 NW. 2 N. 19 NW. .27 | Rain, snow. 22 NW. 28.... 29..... 29. 29. 55 65 30..... 36 43 25 Rain. Rain. Rain. .31 Rain. 30..... 78 68 30. 31. ... 31..... .71 Total. 2, 434 11,685 749 Mean . 78.52 54.36 24. 16 99 Total .1 2,520 1, 704 1816 Mean. 81.29 54.97 26. 32 Total . 1, 853 1, 401 452 Mean. 61.77 46.70 15.07. | 1.75 S. Maximum, 73 on 1st instant; minimum, 36 on 29th in- Maximum, 90 on 10th instant; minimum, 47 on 28th in Maximum, 89 on 27th instant; minimum, 51 on 30th in- || stant; total precipitation, 0.71; prevailing wind, south. stant; total precipitation, 0.99; prevailing winds, south. \ stant; total precipitation, 1.75; prevailing wind, south. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. OCTOBER, 1894. NOVEMBER, 1894. DECEMBER, 1894. :: Maximum. Minimum. Remarks. Date. 3520_ Precipita tion. Range. Winds. Maximum. Minimum Remarks. :|| Date. Range. Precipita- tion. Winds. Remarks. Maximum Minimum. Range. Precipita- tion. Winds. 29 N 143 42 :44 NW. NW. 0.02 | Rain.. 44 44 2 45 အ ܚܟܢ ܟܢܟ ܕܗܪ 43 အ .. 49 55 အ ser 57 39 uuuu Bzuwiusi Snow. 39 27 N N. NW V Y . 39 30 Snow. N JYRA 33 NW.. 31 N N. 17 W. ... 19 W. .. 8 SW 0.40 15 SW. 15 | SW... W. 1 . 10 17 W . 0SW. SW. 26 SW. 24 · SW. 1 ! W. 41 W. 101 W. 11 W 20 W . 23 9..... 10..... 11..... 12..... 13..... 14..... 15..... 16..... 17..... 18.. 14 10..... 11..... 12..... 13..... 14... 15..... 16.. 17..... Snow. Snow. 15 22 SW. 11 N. 25 N. NW. 0.10 Rain. 1 - 1 17..... 32 20 18... 18.... Rain. KO Rain. Snow. 20 39 ISW 21..... 22 SW. 8 NW. 15 NW. NW. SW. 30 21.. 22..... 23..... 30 34 . 20 vibzzzvenzivazzuca . 25 Rain. 24. 26 17 49 25 16 W . .... W. . Snow. W . . . 10 Snow. W. NW.. 18 NW. 26 NW..... 24 NW... .01 | Snow. 52 42 11 III Snow, 46 Snow. 2 .. 9 SW | SW. W. 36 35 12 23 12 Snow. 30. 29. 30 33 23 10 24 I 29 1 10 31.. 25 15 Total. 1, 661 557 | 309 Mean . 53.88 34.80 19. 03 Total . 1, 328 835 | 493 Mean. 44.27 27.83 16.43 1. 34 N. Total. 871 362 509 Mean. 28.10 11.68 16.42 W. 24. .... 30. 31..... Maximum, 73 on 16th instant; minimum, 21 on 8th in. Máximum, 58 on 11th instant; minimum, -1 on 16th | Maximum, 43 on 19th instant; minimum, -- 17 on 27th stant; total precipitation, 0.89; prevailing wind, north; || instant; mean, 36.05; precipitation, 0.15; prevailing | instant; mean, 19.89; precipitation, 1.34; prevailing depth of snowfall, 4.05 inches. . winds, south. winds, west. man - YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. METEOROLOGICAL RECORD-Continued. JANUARY, 1895. FEBRUARY, 1895. MARCH, 1895. Date. Maximum. Minimum Winds. Precipita- tion. Date. Remarks. Range. Maximum. Minimum. Range. Winds. Precipita- tion. Romarks. || Date. Maximum. Remarks. Minimum. Range. Winds. Precipita- tion. 2. ASI 1 SW SW.. I woo*oon Snow. Snow. Snow. Snow. 14 I Sw.in SW.10. SW.). .70 SW. . .50 SW . 10 SW. 17 NW. 18 NW. .01 16 NW, 0. 14 NW... 10 INW. . 12 NW. 9 N. N. Snow. Snow. Snow. 11. W SW 19 24 Snow. 23 2A 10 10. 18 10. .03 Snow. 11..... zzzZZZZ 13 lllll 111.. || 12..... NW... N. 0.75 Snow Snow. 13.. 14..... 12..... 13..... 14..... 15:... 16.. 17..... 18..... 19..... N. | N. 37 NW. 21 NW. 14 W. 15... 16... 1 17... 18..... .40 Snow. 1. 60 Snow. 18..... 30 W. 12 12 N 25 N. 23 N. NW NW NW. 19 NW. INW. W. W 22 W . 28 NW. .20 Snow. .40 19..... 26 Snow. Snow. Snow. 20 20 ᏚᎳ. SW. ᏚᎳ. SW. Thermometer broken. 19 21 BBzivivivizionit 21 OVOQQ Snow. Snow. 36 33 CO 23.. 24..... 25 26.. 42 44 40 22..... 23..... 24.. 20 Snow. 25 42 SW. SW. SW. SW. SW. LL 0 Snow. 42 42 .01 Snow. 28..... 18 14 N. 20..... 30..... Snow. Snow. Snow. Snow. 29..... · 21 N 34 2 13 21 | NW W . ..! W. 31..... 22 Total. 815 Mean. 29.11 260 555 9. 29 19.82 71 N .. .. 511 235 Total 833 322 4.76 Total. 310 431. 2.79 Moan. 26. 87 Maximum, 44 on 24th instant; minimum, -26 on 11tb Maximum, 41 on 11th instant; minimum, -- 23 on 27th in- || instant; mean, 19.21; precipitation, 0.34; prevailing | Maximum, 44 on 8th instant; minimum, — 17 on 14th stant; mean, 18.63; precipitation, 4.76; prevailing winds, | winds, northwest and south west. instant; mean, 13.90; total precipitation, 2.79; prevail- north. ing winds, south. . YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. APRIL, 1895. MAY, 1895 JUNE, 1895. Date. Maximum. Minimum. Range. Winds. Precipita tion. Remarks. Datė. Maximum. Minimum. Remarks. Date. Precipita tion. Range: Winds. Maximum Minimam arks. Range. Winds. Precipita. tiốn. 0.14 Rain and snow. 3.. 4... SW. SW. N. OTIA W N. NW. NW.. 0.01 | Rain. 01 Rain. .05 | Rain. WHO į SW. NW. NW: W.. IS. NW: SE. . 70 N . OON .01 ) Rain. Snow and rain. 2. 20 snow. . . 20 2 snow. S, N. 8.. 42 9..... 10..... NW. W. . 01 | 0.10 spow. .01 : 0.10 Snow.. 64 N. NW. NW. NW. NW. NW.I. W . 66 01 Rain. -- 112 12..... 70 - 0.33 Rain. 78 10.... 11.... 12.... 13..... 14... 15.... 16... 17... 18.. -- 13..... 14..... - .01 | Rain. 15.. -- 15... 56 Q 46 - 16..... 17..... 18..... 19.... BEZEBETULEEBEEEEEEEEEE - 17.... 52 --- 18. 60 - ST - 65 - 20 70 21. uwazuivazzurrun Rain. 0 0 SW: 76 YY . . . . . . . 22.... 23..... .... 79 24... 25. 24..... 25..... 26..... . 101 1 snow. W. .:06 Snow and rain. | W. .. W . 1 Rain. NW. . 13 Rain. SW... SW. . .01 Rain. W... NW..02 | Rain. 13 NW. NW. .21 Rain. INW. NW. 35 N. 1.55 Rain, hail; heaýy thunder storm. sᎳ. 10 Snow and rain. :31 Rain. ISW. | E. . SW. SW. E. .51 Rain. NW.1 53 Rain árd snow, NW. .01 | Snow and rain. 15 SW. 13 NW. NW. Raih. 76 26.. 79 24 27 28. 26..... 27..... 28..... 28..... 29..... 30.... .09 .04 Rain. Rain 29.... 29.... 30. 31..... .13 30... Total 884 Mean........ 29. 47 .. ..61 Total Mean. 757 1,052 33. 93 300 1.68 NW. Total | 1, 947 1, 120 1 825 Mean. 64:90 37.40 27:50 NW. Maximum, broken; minimum, 11 on 6th instant; mean of minimum 29.47; precipitation, 0,61; prevail. ing winds, south. Maximum; broken until 19th instant; minimum, 20 on Maximum, 81 on 29th instant; minimum, 29 on 9th in- 10th instant; mean of minimum, 33.93; precipitation, 1.68; || stant; mean of maximum, 64,90; wean of minimum, 37.33; prevailing winds, northwest. total precipitation, 2.71; prevailing winds, northwest. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. Observed eruptions of geysers at Upper Basin, Yellowstone National Park. JUNE, 1894. Arte. |Beehive.) misia. I Castle. Giant. Giantess. Grand. oblong.) | Splendid. ல்உல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல் .1. . : 4. 50I 8.40 . .. . 8.20 --- / 5.20 3.30 . 3.20 . 5.10 3.15 8.00 5.30 4.00 7.40 m. - - p.m.. 3.15 9.30 21 ---- 6.30 3.15 1.20 8.30 . 2.35 5.20 . 5 9.00 7.45 10.00 9.00 10.45 00 7.15 5.00 - - - 45 1.00 12.4 6.50 2.30 6.30 3.00 10.30 10.00 3.10 1 . . . a Thirteen hours. YELLOWSTONE. NATIONAL PARK. 21. Observed éruptions of geysers at Upper Basin, Yellowstone National Park,Continued. · JULY, 1894. Arte- misia. Beehive. Castle. Giant. Giantess. Grand. Oblong. Splendid. ......... 2.30) 10.15 6.45 a 10.45 . 5.00 | 9:50 sam... p.m.. Sa.ma p.m sam > pm ca.m. p.m jam 6.30 5.40 . TA ***...... 3. 30. 8.00 **** 8.30 |**** 3.46. 6.30 .. ***3.15. p.m. 8. 30 8. 00 ſ a. m p.m. a.m. 2. 30 ol 1 1 1 p.ma Sa.m. 2.p.ma i icra 3.40 11.15. . 1 .... .... ... 11. 15. 7. 45 Sa. m p.m. 5. 25. a.ma p.m. jam. p.m ſ a.m.. 11 2 p.ma Sa.m m ... 1 · 6.00 p.m šam 12.30 4.45. . 1 > p.m. . 1 . 4.30 . 10. 15. . . 3. 30 6.00 Sa.m p.m. Sa.m. p.m. Sa.m.. p.m. S a.m. {p.m. ...... 6.30 12.05 Şa. . 2 p.m. 2.00 1. 10.00 . Sa.m. 11. 35 P.m.... 11. 20 55 . 8.50 Sam.. p.m.. Sam.. p.m. 7.10 3. 30 10.00 1.30 ! 111 7.20 5.15. . . 8. 15 p.m.. 4. 15 2. 115 9.15.. 4.00 2.15; 4:30, .6. 30, 8. 16 Sa.m... p.m.. icon m ... 2 m..... 10 .... 1 .. 11.00 7.00 3.10 4.3 7. 45 0 0 0 p.m.. Sam. p.m.. Sa.m. 4. 15 . 1.p.m. 9.00 3. 15. . 11.30 3. 45 7.30. 4.50 sam.. p.m . 7.15*** *3.20 . 30 ....a Twenty-one hours... b Fourteen hours. .. 1'. 22 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. D UN Observed : eruptions of geysers at Upper Basin, Yellowstone National Park-Continued. AUGUST, . 1894. Arte- misia. Beehive. Castle. Giant. Giantess. Grand. Oblong. Splendid. 8.2 * 5.20 -10:45 4.15 De ce ...... 11.30 6.30 7.20 20 0.15 .5. 30 .. .7.15, 11. 30 3.45, 7.30 6.30, 9.00 .. 8.00 12.50 10.00 6.00 9.00 8.00 p.m. am. P.m. 1.16 10.30 : i.... 8.00 :5.30 11.30 30 V a. m 11.30 7.00 8.00 3. 45 p.m. 6.30 7.15 In. 11.40 I 7.00, 10.00 1.30,5. 15 p.m. 1.30 .8.20 7.15 9.15 sa pous Decoradas c 6. 45 8.00 5.00 7.00 7. 15 3.00! 7.10 -6.30 ...... ....... 11.00 8:30 p.m. 7.30, 9.30 3. 10, 6.00 7. 15 . 9.30 00 6.30 7.30 p.m. .... p.mn aum. p.m. .6.00 -7.00 - 1.15 **** 2.00 3.15 10.45 | 1 1 . 15 4.00 1 8.00 7.30 8. 15 3, 45 7.15 pom. a. m . ***:15- 1 10.15 4 .30 8. 15 6.00 8. 00 7.15, 10.00, 12.00, 2.00 4.00, 6.16 5. 15 7.30 p.m.... a. m.... p.m.. a..m.... 11.45 12.4 7. 15 6. 16 pim a..11. .p.m. 12.45 7.45 7. 10 |**3.00 . a 5.30 .3.00 5.15, 7.15, 9.00, 11.15 7.15, 9.00, '11.30 a..m 6.00 7.50 : P..m .... a.m.... 11.30 7.10 d. m . 7.15 5.00 Deco ... .. 4. nm. Pom ::: 7.10 5. 10 i oci a.m p.m. a. m. 6.00 8. 15 3. 45 11.15 7.30 Pum 5. 15... 3. 30 3.30 3.15, 5.00, 7.15, 9.30, 7.30 9.00 . . . . . . . . . . .... wipo ai i 6.00 . 7. 15 182 .5.10 !............ Roupas eu 9.00 6.00 cöico idio 8.00 9..10 4.-15 0 0 7.00 ::::: 9.00 9.15 .. 6.30 1. 3. 15, 5.00, 6.45, 9.15, 7.00, 9.00, 11.00 Sa. M....... 0 3.30 {p.m...... * * 4.15 | *** *2.3 ... 6.30 6.10 4.15 2.30 4. 30 .......... t. 30 a Eight hours. 0 Fourteen hours. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 23 Observed erruptions of geysers at Upper Basin, Yellorustome National Park - continued. SEPTEMBER, 1894. 1. Arte. misia. Beehive. Castle. | Giant: Giantess. Grand. |oblong. Splendid. a.m..........) m.. 5. 101 9.00 6.15 5.15) 10.15 ......... M. 10.00 8. 11.3 6.30 9.00 --- p.m. -- .5.30 - உல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல் ஃ: மம 3.45 9. 45 M ---- m-- - p.m.. a.m... p.m-- . : 6.00 4.15 8.45 1. 0 5.15 3.15 7.00 3.00 5.00 2.15 8.00 . . . 8.00 3.15 11.00 8.00 1.30 3.15 2.30 6.30 5.15...... 7.00 10.30 7.30 . 8.00 ....... 4.30 | 5. 7.00| . 8.00 ...... 4.30 ம்ம் 10.00 7.30 2.30) 9.159.00, 10.45 800 2. 30, 8.001 8:15 . a.m.--- p.m. 6.00 11.30 5.10 . 2.30 11.15 | 4.30 8.45 5.00 5 11.30 10.30 2.30 9.30 . 3.15 8.00 : ஸ்ல்ஸ் 1.30 ---- --- -------- தில் (c) 3.10,6.00 11.30 001 m. 5.10) 6.15 3.15 a.m.--- 3.30 10.10 6.00 a Forty-two hours. b Eight hours. c1.00, 3.15, 5.00, 7.00, 9.15. 24 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. Observed eruptions of geysers at Upper Basin, Yellowstone National Park - Continued. - ' JUNE, 1895. Arte - misia. Beehive / Castle. Giant. / Giantess.| Grand. Oblong. Splendid. ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல்ல .. 9.15 6.30 4.00 6.101 m-.-. 5.15 ....... 5. 10 | 11.30 வ 1.15 4.15 . 5.15 . 8: .. a.m..... P. 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IO E.., 1877. 11910 711900 10950' 10920 H0910' 110°'Scale 8 Miles to an Inch. 109450". 70940 110930 Longitude West front, Greenwich Lat. 45°01'44" 4500 N Y sepulchre Mateo Butas 45001 Evarts Numarind Gr. Soda Minha Sprey RANGE East Fk. of Slough (: ELLOWSTO MOUNTAIN White Pebble Hajukhumb of Xellows eur Wu Butto Soda Butta TowerFalls V Basot wyphur M5 UPPER stone R. Towers Tower G Hot Spr. Cone 4450 4450 MADISON Amethyst M Washburn 10.100' Cañon RANGE Omande .800 NY nd RANGE Gibbons East Fork of Madyson R. WASHBURN The Gran , 2607 Fork (rystal Falls 7693' w U Great Falls, 197' pper Falls, 140 Upper Madison Basin Sour Cr 4440 RANGE ALU 4440 Crailer Hills Hot fulphur bor W Warm Spray GIBBONS FK RANGE OSO South Mot Sor Divide Mul Geysers ELEPHANTS BACK 7625 LOWER FIRE HOLE, R Falls, 48: 1 pel e Hot Sprs . 98, 90.111 MADISO Long. 109°56'00" Hot Spread gedoo East Fk op Fire HoteR. 8893 Sulphur Hills WYOM Summi L. Hot Sprs Hof Spar 7132. Hot Sprs. Great Pine Hot Spr. Loyer Geyser Basinu Twin Buttes Bridge G $2W Carna 370HX 4430 UPPER Pelican Resst HotSpra A andator: Stevenson I 44301 668 Vit. Fire Hole R whHot Spr VISA Grogo Geyser.pl Upper Geyser Castle Geyseres Falco Fare ren Garrington's inclam28g YELLOWSTONE LAKE Doul. FranksI Parkpl OP V. Fk Srinking Wate ME Ale Water Galch u Spa Signal Hills Signal Upper Madison R. en con SHOSHONE A ME Promontory P? 44'20 44 20 Pond Shoshonee Geyser Basin ME Humphreys 239 Hot Sulphur Spr THE LEWIS 7 » Hot Sprog Park 7804 n . SS Rising Volcanic Plateau Falls, 59 Falls High Volcanic Plateau M! Sheridan 10,420 wurde Bechlers Fork Red Elk Thult Or Upper Yellowstone 7523' Vollowstone R Lake Fork A 1 Barlows X Nlilyma Fur Spor 44 70 7772' VOU ..-2204.. L IST Betal. 62001 Wat 44°09'338 M! Hancock Longitude West from Washington 310 34100' FALL 55 50 33140 32 50 w THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. E-Z"Iyoh wie REPORT ON THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. NORRIS, MICHIGAN, October 20, 1877. SIR: In accordance with your instructions, based upon the act of Congress, approved March 1, 1872, setting apart the Yellowstone Naz tional Park, and providing for the management thereof, I have the honor to submit the following report. Upon receipt of my appointment as superintendent of the said park I appointed Mr. J. C. McCartney, the pioneer proprietor of the Mani. moth Hot Springs Hotel, resident assistant. I soon after published in the Norris Suburban, (a newspaper widely circulated in the West,) a. copy of the act dedicating the park, your rules and regulations for its management, notice of my own and my assistant's appointments, and a spirited appeal to my old mountain comrades, tourists, and the general public, to assist in checking vandalism in the wonder-land, sending hundreds of extra copies to presses and parties in the West. As a practical mode of attracting general attention I also had a large number of spirited cautions against fire and depredations in the park printed upon durable cloth and affixed to trees, and otherwise at promi. nent points of interest therein and the adjacent places of resort. I also, in the Suburban and other sheets, regularly published items of interest relating to my explorations in the park and the routes thereto. The published reports of Langford, Everts, Hayden, myself, and oth- ers having more clearly demonstrated the existence of matchless won- ders within the park than any direct or practical route of reaching it, I sought to explore a new one by ascending the Yellowstone River, its. natural outlet. Leaving Washington in April, and Norris in May, passed the Sacred Calumet or Pipe-stone quarry of Dakota en route to Bismarck. Thence, after unusual delays upon steamboat ascending the Missouri, reached Fort Buford, at the mouth of the Yellowstone, June 18. Unfortunately for the Government, the public, and the present popularity of the Yel- lowstone route to the National Park, Commodore Coulson failed to secure contract for the immense Government transportation thereon.' He thus hauled off the Josephine, the first boat of recent years to as- cend the Yellowstone, which, in 1875, reached the highest point yet at- tained, at Baker's battle-field near the mouth of Clark's Fork; the Far West, which carried the wounded after Custer's and Reno's defeat from the mouth of the Little Big Horn River, in 1876, the intrepid Captain Grant Marsh, commanding on both occasions; and also other boats and officers fitted or qualified for the trade. This left the Yellowstone Transportation Company with a totally in. adequate supply of necessary light draught powerful steamboats, or officers of experience on that route. I am explicit upon this point, as the all-important one, which, after much of a season's unfortunate experiment of running huge, loggy Ohio and Mississippi packets upon the large and beautiful but unknown, uni- formly rapid, and often rocky Yellowstone, terminated in an amicable arrangement by which much of the immense public and private freight- age thereon was speedily done by the first-named and similar boats and officers. Despite the most gentlemanly treatment by the officers of these large boats, so annoying became the delays that I left Tongue River post, with two comrades, upon Indian horses captured at General Miles's Rosebud fight, ascending the Yellowstone on the north bank to the Big Horn, and up the latter and the Little Big Horn to Custer's field, at disinterment of the officers' remains. Thence returned to the Yellowstone, and, through terrible storms of rain and hail, ascended it to and through the Snowy Gate of the mountains, Bottler's Park, and the second cañon to the Mam- moth Hot Springs, in the National Park. Thence made a brief visit to Forts Ellis and Bozeman for consulta- tion with the leading military officers and citizens in relation to invalids and tourists at the bathing-springs, and, securing an outfit, returned to Bottler's. Anxious to explore the nearly unknown northern portions of the park and its approaches, I crossed to Emigrant and over the basaltic terraces bordering a chain of lakes to Fitzgerald's lonely ranch, at the foot of Dome Mountain. Near these lakes, the basaltic terraces back of Bottler's and iu Trail Creek Pass are long, often parallel, lines of small rude stone-beaps, and , near the latter many mining shafts and drifts of some prehistoric race for a rare, wavy, ornamental rock, the first evidence of ancient mining dis- covered in these regions. From their adjacent burial-cairns, discovered by me in 1870, specimens of this rock, arrow beads, and other imple. ments and tools of obsidian or volcanic glass, were found and sent to the Smithsonian Institution, hoping for future interesting explorations. The mountain snows were unusually deep and slow in melting, but by following an ancient game and Sheepeater Indiau trail some miles from and at least 2,000 feet above the river in the second cañon, I crossed Dome Mountain, descending to the river opposite Cinnabar Mountain. Thence ascended the valley, passed several active and the crumbling craters and cones of countless extinct hot springs, often capping the basaltic cliff's bundreds of feet in height, like (save a more yellow tinge VUOIS, in weathering) the most ancient and elevated of those at the Mammoth Hot Springs, and doubtless of a common age and character, to Gardiner River and Bear Gulch. The latter enters the Yellowstone through a yawning chasm, deep, through the hot springs formation and basaltic lava, into the underlying gold-bearing rocks, upon a lode in which four miles up the gulch (probably just without the park) is an excellent arrastra amid promising lodes and placers. The initial point of the park boundaries at the confluence of the Yellowstone and Gardiner Rivers is in a deep eroded valley, elevated but a few feet above their rocky beds, a good permanent starting point for survey of the boundary-line, which is excellent for a few miles in the Yellowstone Valley to the west, but to the east it soon enters and continues along a towering, most of the year snowy, range, gashed from one to three thousand feet deep by Bear Gulch, Crevice, Slough, and Soda Butte Creeks, and their eroded side cañons. A narrow belt near their mouths within and much more with- out the park contains probably valuable deposits of gold, silver, copper, and other valuable minerals, amid basaltic buried petrified forests of matchless wood opal, amethyst, chalcedony, &c. These I explored, as also the mining camps at heads of the Little region,) and in pursuance of a long.cherished desire. sought a pass thence through the Big Horn or Shoshone Sierra Range to the main Yellowstone below. · Failing on my route up to find a guide or even a comrade from the Crow Indian agency from below, I now employed Mr. Adam Miller to guide me from above down the Little Rosebud. Quickly crossing a sharp divide fully 8,000 feet high and from his mining. camp at the head of Soda Butte Creek, we in four miles descended to about 7,000 feet at the famous Red Trout Lake. This is the head of Slue Creek running south into the East Fork, thence in the same park with. out an intervening ridge to the head of the Little Rosebud or Stillwater running northerly into the main Yellowstone. We found neither falls, pass many miles through the main divide so unexpectedly favorable, that I decided to return through and complete its exploration en route home, after tour of the park. But before returning we ascended a snowy peak of the main divide Valley, both of the Yellowstones near their forks, Tower Creek Falls, and Mount Washburn looming grandly in the southern background. To the north a deep, narrow, but direct and apparently fine open pass con- necting Slough Creek with the Rosebud, and through the last crest of the range to the treeless foot-bills, and timber-fringed valleys of the Rosebud, Stillwater, and main Yellowstone beyond the Crow Indian agency, to limit of the horizon in the dark Bull Mountain. After finding that my injury at Tower Falls would compel my return down the river in a boat, I employed Mr. Miller to explore the pass .. thoroughly, and report promptly and fully, which the unexpected Indian raid has prevented, in time for this report. But I retain great confidence that this pass, cutting off, as it does, Dearly one hundred miles in dis- tance and several cañons and mountain-spars along the Upper Yellow- stone, will prove, to at least the East and Clark's Forks mining regions, much if not all of the year, exceedingly valuable, if only for pack-trains, with strong promise of a wagon-route during at least the summer. This, in addition to ordinary traffic, would give tourists a direct route from the navigable waters of the Yellowstone past the Crow agency, mag- nificent mountain scenery and valuable mines through the petrified for- ests to the forks of the Yellowstone, and great central point of the 66 wonder land.” Descended the Soda Butte, East Fork, and main river to near Trail Creek Pass below Bottler's, to meet General Sherman, and returned with him to Hot Spring Creek, near the forks of the Yellowstone. Anxious to explore a route between the Grand Cañon and Mount Washburn, I started alone at daybreak, pushing rapidly to Tower Falls. There the roar of waters, with fumes of sulphur from the Grand Cañon, frightened my horse to backing and the breaking of a stirrup-strap, hurling me headlong through a clump of service-bushes many feet down a precipice upon the jagged lava-rocks below, breaking compass, watch, and field- glass, and rendering ine temporarily insensible. Though partially re- covered before arrival of the General and party, the injury to my nearly broken neck and back, my arm, and an old shoulder-wound, was so severe as to compel my most reluctant return to the Mammoth Hot Springs. Greatly benefited by two days bathing there, I was with great diffi- culty enabled to reach Bottler's, and thence in a small Mackinaw boat descended the river through the Gate of the mountains, and some 400 miles to the steamboat Far West, below the mouth of the Big Horn, and upon her to Bismarck; thence returned via the Northern Pacific Rail- road to Duluth, and the Great Lakes to Detroit, thence to my subur- ban hoine, after nearly four months of constant, toilsome, and often dan. gerous travel, and am still suffering from, I fear, a permanent injury to my shoulder and spine. I heard the first tidings of Gibbon's fight at the Big Horn, the Nez Perces raid into the Geyser Basin, and first massacre of tourists in the Park, at Duluth, and still later of the burning of Henderson's ranch, the bridges, and killing of other tourists at the Mammoth Hot Springs. From General Sherman's extremely weak escort of only five men, be- side a like number of my citizen comrades, it is evident that he did not anticipate incursion of the Indians so closely behind him, nor did others. Even after, as is now known, the Nez Perces were slaughtering tourists at the Geyser Basin, no tidings had reached my assistant at the Mam- moth Springs, who then wrote me that tourists were pressing on to the falls, believing the Indians were descending Snake River. He sub- sequently did all in his power to assist the wounded and bury the dead, narrowly escaping with his life after loss of his horses, buildings, &c. Deeply as I regret my absence, I was, even aside from my injury, in no situation to have rendered very material additional assistance, as I was totally without park police, or personal escort, authority to raise, or funds to pay for them, or even an official salary, obligation to, or ex- pećtation of a prolonged stay in the park this year. I understood my. season's duties to be exploration of the Yellowstone River, a new pass to the East Fork, arousing public sentiment against destruction of animals and wonders in the park, with a rapid review of it, for the latest knowledge attainable for intelligently recommending practical legisla- tion and rules for its future management. This, despite all obstacles and mishaps, I have mainly accomplished. The portion of the park which I failed to review this season is that well knowp to myself and others; much of what I did visit, little known, and yet a knowledge of it necessary for appropriate legislation. I also deem my exploration of the pass to the Little Rosebud and the entire length of the Yellowstone River, by boat or on horseback, as being to myself and the public, for many reasons, extremely valuable. * The location, size, and general features of the Yellowstone National Park, and its two old routes of approach, are, from many public and private accounts, so well understood as to require few comments, other than all admit the existence there of an unrivaled concentration of wonders, ard also the wisdom of Congress in promptly setting it apart as a permanent health and pleasure resort, and placing it under the con- trol of the Interior Department. They, however, with equal unanimity press the necessity for additional legislation, and especially for speedy appropriation of funds to survey and plainly and permanently mark its boundaries, and also salary of a superintendent to justify his residence there, and efforts to protect the wonders, open roads, and assist tourists with information and guidance. When returning from a fruitless effort to reach the geysers in spring of 1870, I at Bottler's met Adam Miller, who after subsidence of the floods which had disabled my comrade and forced our return, ascended the main river and East Fork, and discovered the Soda Butte and Clark's Fork mines. This was months in advance of Washburn, Doan, and comrades, the first’in any sense official explorers of the park, and pearly two years before it was legally declared such, and yet during all this intervening time (save when temporarily driven out by Indians or starvation) bim- self and other occupants of these mines have labored in utter ignorance of whether they were living under the usual regulations of wining camps, or trespassers upon a national pleasure-park. · There is now one valuable argentiferous galena-smelter, owned by spirited Montana capitalists, and some thirty or forty resident gold- placer miners in this annoying situation. 10). Besides, the laws and customs of our people are too well established in reference to mines and miners to anticipate revenues or assistance from them, other than perhaps construction of a substantial highway and bridges, where, and under such regulations as the superintendent of the park or the Secretary of the Interior may prescribe. Should these mines develop as they now promise these improvements can doubtless be secured, thus greatly counterbalancing the annoyance of a fifty-mile line of ordinary traffic through even the border of the park. But the entire character of ownership and development of all these mining interests are so dissimilar to the anomalous rules and regulations necessary for the management of a wild national pleasure- resort, that antagonism and annoyance so arises and increases at every phase of their contact that the permanent good of both absolutely re- quires a speedy survey of the boundaries of the park, followed by either a recession or special rules for management of these, probably the only valuable mines that will ever be found even partially within the park. As C. J. Barronette bad, at great danger and expense, constructed a bridge at the forks of the Yellowstone, where indispensable for access to the mines or of travel in much of the park, and J. O. McCartney had, with much expense and cost, constructed hotel, bath, and other accom- modations at the Mammoth Hot Springs many months before the setting off of the park, and have constantly and more beneficially to the public than to themselves held peaceable possession of them until the recent Indian raid, it seems but fair they should either be paid a reasonable remuneration for surrender of their improvements, if taken by the Gov. ernment, (which I do not recommend,) or allowed a fair preference in securing ten or twenty years' leases for bridge and hotel rights at their respective localities. These are all the permanent occupants or improvements, in addition to the above-mentioned mining interests within the park; the rude cabins, corralls, &c., of ranchmen upon the East Fork and Soda Butte, should, without expense, be utilized by the Government in leases for like purposes. There should also be ten or twenty years' leases for hotel accommodations at each of the Fire Hole Basins, the Great Falls, and foot of Yellowstone Lake, with yacht and ferry license at the latter place. The early interesting and truthful reports of Professors Hayden, Com- stock, and others of the beautiful and grand geysers and other hot-springs and salzas, with their snowy white, or beautifully-tinted and scalloped borders aud terraces, elsewhere unequaled by nature, and inimitable by art, still fails in description of the Lion, Lioness, and many other gey- sers then anknown, and being constantly discovered by myself and others. Besides, as then conjectured and now known, although uniform and permanent in general character, there are constant and often great changes in the volunie of water, power, and periods of eruption and repose of many of the geysers, as well as in their birth, growth, deca- 11 dence, death, and decay. This is especially evident at the Mammoth Hot Springs, the crumbling and all-eroding effects of the elements, adding the halo of ceaseless contrast and change to the other weird wonders of the "fairy land." This assures constant interest in new view and description of and anxiety to revisit it, especially by those benefited by bathing in any of the countless medicinal springs. The lamentable Indian raid, burning of houses, bridges, and massacre of innocent tourists within the park, soon after my leaving there, is as anomalous as unexpected; the first, and probably the last of the kind, as it is wholly aside from all Indian routes, and only chosen in the des- peration of retreat by the Nez Percés, who have acquired sufficient civ. ilization and Christianity to at least overpower their pagan superstitious fear of earthly fire-bole basins and brimstone pits. : Doubtless many interesting specimens of opalized wood, chalcedony crystals, &c., have, without serious injury to the park, been removed therefrom to the public and private museums or cabinets of the world, greatly adding to a correct knowledge of, and desire to visit, the match- less 6 wonder-land.” But millions of specimens have been obtained by the grossest vandal- ism; many of the inimitable scalloped cones and turbaned borders of geysers, salzas, and springs, specimens of centuries of nature's match- less handiwork, demolished for mere fragments which, as such, were not worth—and often not carried away. Careless use of fire has also de- stroyed vast groves of timber, seriously increasing the necessity and adding to the cost of constructing roads and bridle-paths. Owing to the isolation of the park, deep amid suowy mountains, and the superstitious awe of the roaring cataracts, sulphur pools, and spout- ing geysers over the surrounding pagan Indians, they seldom visit it, and only a few harmless Sheep-eater hermits, armed with bows and arrows, ever resided there, and even they now vanished. Hence in no other portion of the West or of the world was there such an abundance of elk, moose, deer, mountain sheep, and other beautiful and valuable animals, fish and fowl, nor as ignorant, or as fearless of and easily slaughtered by man as in this secluded and unknown park but seven years ago. Most of the larger animals would stupidly gaze at man stalking erect as an added wonder in the “wonder-land” until too often wantonly slaughtered, while the utter want of salary prevented my worthy predecessor, Hon. N. P. Langford, from residing there or seriously checking. From the unquestioned fact that over 2,000 hides of the huge Rocky Mountain elk, nearly as many each of the big-born deer and antelope, and scores if not hundreds of moose and bison were taken out of the park in spring of 1875, probably 7,000, or an annual average of 1,000 of them, and hundreds if not thousands of each of these other animals have been thus killed since its discovery in 1870. 12 As comparatively few of them were slain for food, but mostly for their pelts and tongues, often run down on snow-sboes and tomabawked when their carcasses were least valuable, and merely strychnine-poisoned for wolf or wolverine bait, the amount of most wholesome, nutritious, and delicious food thus wantonly destroyed is simply incalculable. My appeals to the hunter mountaineers have been quite uniformly met with the frank arowal that while Government provided no one to protect its animals and wonders, nearly all of them alike slaughtered and vandalized; that with a firm business effort of a superintendent and assistants to protect, all will abstain or find it too hot to long remain there--and I believe them. For with all their faults and peculiarities is blended an enviable standard of truth, honor, and genuine pride in their own reputations and that of the matchless wonders of their mountain homes, which, by manly treatment and proper rules uniformly enforced, would render them its steadfast protectors instead of ruthless despoilers. With the best-informed wountaineers, I deem the game in most of the park, especially along the main routes of travel, as too much deci. mated to justify extra efforts for its protection west of the Yellowstone Lake, River, and Grand Cañon. But the wild eastern portion between them and the impassable snowy crests of the Shoshone Sierra, or Yel- lowstone range, from the base, say thirty miles, along the East Fork of the Yellowstone south, say fifty miles, to apex of a triangle at the head of the lake, contains fewer prominent wonders and more large valuable game-animals than other portion of the park or of the mountains. Here is still a herd of three hundred or four hundred of the curly, nearly black bison, or mountain buffalo, with thousands of elk, deer, moose, antelope, bighorn and woolly sheep, beaver, and other beautiful and rare animals valuable for food, pelts and furs, while, inclosed by im- passable natural barriers elsewhere, only during the deep snows of winter occasionally visit the deep-sheltered grassy valley of the East Fork—from two to five miles wide. There two or three spirited, intelligent berdsmen might (in addition to profitably rearing domestic animals) also thoroughly protect and, by capture of the young, gradually domesticate any desired number of them. These, by practical rearing, and by sale of the young to zoologists throughout the world, and by judicious slaughter and sale of their flesh, pelts, and furs, and also of those still wild, might render then perma- nently attractive and profitable to the park and to the nation in its management. That this is not visionary, but eminently practical, the herds of Major Pease and others, of bison, elk, deer, and woolly, sheep, mainly originally captured in the park and now roaming peacefully with domestic animals without inclosure, fodder, or other care the whole year, is proof beyond cavil or doubt. By proper laws and leases the rocky islets of Alaska produce a fair and reliable revenue from the skins of the arctic seal, when elsewhere . .. 13 practically extinct; why not thus utilize a waste corner of our-in size, elevation, and wonders unrivalled-National Park by timely protection of our rarest animals, our national bird of valor, and our matchless speckeled trout? Surely they might here prove a perpetual attraction to the eye, under proper regulations, to the chase, and their flesh judiciously slaughtered, to the palate of the countless health and pleasure seekers, when else. where unknown, save in the natural histories of extinct species. Within a decade the buffalo, the bison, and, in fact, the most of these larger animals will be extinct or extremely rare elsewhere in the United States; and if our people are ever to preserve living specimens of our most beautiful, interesting, and valuable animals, here, in their native forests and glens of this lofty cliff and snow encircled “wonder- land,” is the place and now the time to do it. A pressing necessity is the construction of a wagon-road from the Mammoth Hot-Springs, via the Cañon Falls and caşcades of the East Fork of the Gardiner River, Tower Falls, Mount Washburn Cascades, Yellowstone Falls and Lake, and to the Fire-hole Basins, to where the Nez Percés recently entered the park upon the road from Henry's Lake. This, in a distance of something less than a hundred miles would con- nect nearly all the main points of interest within the park, the two old entrances at their termini, a new one through the Togwatee Pass and Wind River Valley, as proposed by Capt. W. A. Jones and Prof. Theo. B. Comstock in the interesting and valuable report of their explorations of 1873, and also my proposed one from Dear the forks of the Yellow- stone to the Stillwater and navigable portion of the Yellowstone. There is also necessity for speedy construction of a bridle-path through the pass from the Little Rosebud or Stillwater to the Clark's Fork and Soda Butte Mines, thence through the petrified forests, froin Amethyst Mountain to Pelicau Creek and foot of Yellowstone Lake, thence around it, with a branch to the Shoshone Lake, Geyser Basin, and old Faithful Geyser in the Upper Fire-hole Basin. Also a very important bridle-path cut off by the route which I ex- plored in 1875, from the forks of the Firehole via Gibbon's Fork, Cañon, Falls, Red Geyser Basin and Pass, and the falls of the Gardiner River, to the Mammoth Hot Springs. As of these roads and bridle-paths, only the miners (which I hope to arrange with them to construct and repair from the forks of the Yellowstone) cross the main river, no long, but many short, and some tolerably elevated, bridges will be required; but some long causeways, especially in the miry, often nearly impassable, Up- per Firebole Valley, much earth and little rock excavation. Timber and rock material usually abundant, and plain but substantial improve- ments, with the all-important practical selection of routes not neces- sarily very expensive. The necessity is evident for an appropriation to survey the boundaries, and continue explorations of the park, construction of these roads and 14 : · bridle-paths, and salary to insure a superintendent of energy and prac- tical knowledge, and intrusted with discretionary power to under proper restrictions, manage these varied and important interests of the nation in the park. An ambitious'scientific signal-officer at the Mammoth Hot Springs or the Geyser Basin, or both, might, with little additional duty or expense, greatly aid science in solving many interesting and practical questions these various classes of hot springs, the degree of their connection with the earth's internal fires, and their counbined influence upon the climate of the park. Notwithstanding the unavoidable great length of this first general report of the situation of the park since its legal existence, so important to its development and enjoyment is the opening of the Yellowstone River route, that I add a brief statement of what I deem practical facts in relation thereto. We are now in the midst of serious and wide-spread Indian difficulties of cost and duration uncertain, but not the pending military necessities or final results, one of the most important of which is the speedy and permanent opening of the great natural Yellowstone route to the settled portions of Montana and the park, of the feasibility of which I have all confidence, for the following reasons: most of the season to Fort Benton, and all of it to Carroll. From a personal knowledge of these streams many years ago-explo- rations of most of both of them in 1870 and 1875, boating the whole of the Yellowstone one way, part of it the other, and the balance upon horseback this season, the views of old trappers and bull boat voyagers and of recent steam boat and military officers, basis for accurate conclu- sions certainly equaled by few, if any, and excelled by no man living- I thus view their relative and actual merits for navigation. As com- pared with the Missouri above their junction, I deem the Yellowstone less crooked and muddy, with a somewhat narrower channel and much firmer banks, a more uniformly rapid current, but neither falls nor long and heavy rapids as has the Missouri below the gate of the mountains, usually carrying nearly as much water, and often, though not always, (from higher snowy mountains,) boating-stage later in the season; bluff and bar impediments to navigation more rocky and changeless, and hence soon better known, avoided, or permanently improved. . With moderate appropriation for removal of huge bowlders in the Wolf, Buffalo, and a few other rapids, and with the convenient rock and timber obstructing a few side shutes, powerful light.draught steam- boats, like the Josephine or Far West, can with safety and profit run uearly or quite all of the season to the mouth of the Big Horn. Boats like the Rosebud could ascend to at least Baker's battle-field, and, with further improvements of the channel, and perhaps a smaller, 15 yet serviceable, class of boats to the mouth of the Stillwater, if not, Indeed, to Benson's Landing, at the very gate of the mountains, within sixty miles of the Mammoth Hot Springs in the park. This landing is but twenty-two miles by the open Bozeman Pass and excellent road from Fort Ellis at the head of the fertile Gallatin Valley, extending to the Three Forks of the Missouri and central point of the valuable mines and valleys of Montana. Hence, eveu liberal appropriations for improvement of the Yellowstone would be annually repaid to the Gov. ernment in the cost of transportation alone to an entire chain of forts, besides speedily assuring a border of prosperous settlements, (save upon the Crow reservation, and ere long that also,) and permanently solving the Indian question, through the very heart of their most beautiful and valuable game regions. The permanent opening of this great natural route from the north and east, and the assured extension of the Northern Utah Road into at least the Snake River Valley from the south, will develop rivalry in excur- sion-tickets from all the important cities of the nation, inviting teeming throngs of tourists to the bracing air, the healing bathing-pools, and matchless beauties of the 6 wonder-land.” Whether this national heritage of the unique, the beautiful, and the marvelous, somewhat aided by art and judicious management, is to thus become and ever remain the chosen resort of the student, the scientist, and the weary and worn pilgrims for health and pleasure of our own and other lands, or be given up, as heretofore, to the ruthless vandalism of all comers, depends upon the tendering or withholding of the foster- ing hand of the guardians of our nation's wealth and weal without delay. P. W. NORRIS, Superintendent of the Yellowstone National Park. Hon. CARL SCHURZ, Secretary of the Interior, Washington, D. O. 11 י .ב יי* . " י* לי - - ר ו : א י ן : יי " י. * רי - "- - - - 4 ב ג ד י ים ל י . --, י . - י י י - - -- ייי. י - * * - - E - - - - - - - - - - - - - י. "י --- יאיייי ד ה , :. ." ... - .יין , ידייי ייי די 4 - - י א - : -יי - רבי-ה- .. + ב תי - - - -- * - 1 י - - - - י - -יי ש.י .: *סיידה -או - ז - דין - י ר יה : . . : - ם) * ל .F4 -/+ -- -י -י - - יי - -- ל- * * - י -ןייי. - - י - - - * . ו - . " . . י - - י- - :: י :- :} י. : י ם ד י י :: - * - - - - - י - -י -י - :::: - - ;-ו ! - - - - - - - - !!! י - - - -*:* ? *. * - - - - - - - י - * 4 י - " י - ח - -+ י ד -ן -- - . ד : -- -- 44 'יי - - . - - - י : - י - י - - - - - - - - - - - : * זו: { : :: . : ;jif- - *- *--* - - י ו - - *. י י י י י - - - - - י : :- + ידיי - י - - ,.;:;1 : ::::: :: - }::: * ז :: - י י " י : :ן י : י כי י }!!!!! .. . - -י י :: - ז י-י - 4 - 4 * י" 4 - 4 - - - - - .'.'.'.'. - - - - - - - - - יי - - + גב * - - - - - - - - - - . - . . .: .. 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' ; . י . ::.. . י. יי 1, ; :י: : י .. 1 ו .. יי . . - ו .י .. *. נ. ב -י• - ... . . י ... י - - - ."י : * י ד * : . .ן 14. ,. : . . ע.." . ה': 'דיו...ו...י יי , . ? יו... יון .: .יי4י . ,il ייייייי יי.די : י .. ייי י-ן * ,ו! י י י . ה': ; :.4 } . • • : } . ..: :י: י .i; :: ::.::;. *. . .. :..•* 1 . : י ו ן יי :* ן :יי י: יי .. . יי .. .. : : * • : - - - ; . :• -ו (; - - - - - - ** 1 ד .לוויי. י ,י {.. י :t. י,. יוון א י - * ."ה - : - * - - - * - - - - .: - - - - - - - ". •• - - - י ו - : י . .י: ""]:זו * ------ :.. ! : : :: , ן '. '. י : - - - - - - - - ! . '- .U67 722 REPORT OF THE ACTING SUPERINTENDENT OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK TO THE SECRETARY OF THE INTERIOR. 1905. WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 1905. REPORT OF THE U.SI ACTING SUPERINTENDENT OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK TO THE SECRETARY OF THE INTERIOR. 1905 WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 1905. CONTENTS. Page. ......... Alfalfa. Animal. (See Game) ..... Boundary survey... Boat on Yellowstone Lake. Buffalo... Camps....... Fish and fish hatchery....... Fires, forest...... Fort Yellowstone.......... Game........... Game preserve....... Gateway at main (northern) entrance to park... Hotels........ Improvements by engineer officer in park...... Marking of park boundaries.... Meteorological report, 1904-5. Monida and Yellowstone Stage Company.. Planting of fish in streams of park. Recommendations ....... Roosevelt Arch...... Surveys, boundary lines. ... Telephone lines....... Transportation companies... Travel, season 1905.... Trees (Sequoia gigantea)... Wylie permanent camps...... Yellowstone Park Association.. Yellowstone Park Transportation Company...... Yellowstone Lake Boat Company............... •••••••••••••••• REPORT OF THE ACTING SUPERINTENDENT OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. OFFICE OF SUPERINTENDENT, Yellowstone Park, Wyo., October 14, 1905. Sir: I have the honor to submit the following report of the con- dition of affairs in the Yellowstone National Park and its manage- ment since the fiscal year ended June 30, 1904: IMPROVEMENTS ABOUT THE ROOSEVELT ARCHAT NORTH ENTRANCE TO THE PARK. The alfalfa field which was planted last year on both sides of the road leading through the archway near the town of Gardiner has proved a great success, and during the past summer has yielded about 100 tons of fine hay. This hay has been stacked up near the soldiers' station, and will be fed out during the coming winter to the antelope and other game at such times as they may need it. This will insure these animals having an ample supply of feed during the entire winter and prevent them from leaving the park in search of food. It has also greatly improved the appearance of the grounds near the main entrance to the park, and presents a very pleasing sight to the tourists immediately after they have passed through the archway. i Some time since 12 small Sequoia trees (Sequoia gigantea), from the giant forests in Sequoia National Park, Cal., were, by direction of the Department, shipped to this place with a view to their propa- gation in the park. Six of these trees have been planted near the Roosevelt Arch and the remainder in suitable places on the plateau at the Mammoth Hot Springs. If we are successful in growing these trees, they will in the future be a matter of great interest to the tourists. BOUNDARY SURVEY. As stated in my last report, the entire boundary line of the park has been surveyed, but it has not yet been plainly marked in such a way that a person unfamiliar with the country could cross it with- out being aware of the fact. I again strongly recommend that an appropriation be obtained from Congress to do this work, and believe that $2,000 will be sufficient for the purpose. 4 . AOTING SUPERINTENDENT YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. FOREST FIRES. During the past summer we have again been remarkably free from forest fires in the park. During the early part of the season this was due to frequent rains, but during the latter part it was exceed- ingly dry and a number of small fires were started, which would have been very serious but for the fact that they were quickly discovered by the patrols and extinguished before they had gotten a good start. TELEPHONE LINES. The telephone system throughout the park is not in a satisfactory condition, so far as the administration and police of the park is con- cerned, and it would greatly facilitate matters in this direction if the Government owned its own line, running directly to all stations throughout the park. We now have on hand 70 miles of telegraph wire, pertaining to the Signal Department, which is intended for use in constructing a line from Fort Yellowstone to Soda Butte station and from the lake to Sylvan Pass station, on the eastern entrance to the park, but on account of the lack of funds and men we have been unable to construct these lines. The Yellowstone Park Association has placed its lines in excellent condition during the past season by putting up new poles and lines wherever they were needed, and if arrangements could be made with this company to put up cross-arms on their poles and to string a Government wire on them it would greatly improve matters, so far as the parkº authorities are concerned, and a line such as is needed could be constructed at a comparatively small cost. HOTELS. The unusually heavy tourist travel through the park during the past season has shown the necessity for increased accommodations at the Mammoth Hot Springs and at the Grand Canyon. A new hotel should be built at the Mammoth Hot Springs and the one at the Canyon should be remodeled and enlarged. The hotels throughout the park have generally been run in a very satisfactory manner, and in spite of the heavy travel there have been fewer complaints this year than ever before. PERMANENT CAMPS. Mr. William W. Wylie, of Bozeman, Mont., is licensed to conduct camping parties through the park, and is authorized to occupy cer- tain parcels of ground as permanent camps. His services as to transportation and the conduct of his camps have been entirely satisfactory in every respect. TRANSPORTATION COMPANIES. The Yellowstone Park Transportation Company has again increased and improved its plant both as to coaches and horses. During the past season they have been called upon to carry nearly double the number of passengers ever carried before in one season in the history of the company, but in spite of this fact there have been no delays ACTING SUPERINTENDENT YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 5 whatever in the transportation of their patrons through the park, and their service has been satisfactory in every respect. Consider- ing the large number transported through the park, they have been remarkably free from serious accidents of all kinds. The travel over the Monida and Yellowstone Stage Company's line has also increased considerably, and its service has been entirely satisfactory. YELLOWSTONE LAKE BOAT COMPANY. The time has arrived when the Department should take some action as to the matter of transportation on the Yellowstone Lake. For several years past every effort has been made to bring about some amicable arrangement by which the tourists who travel by the various stage companies could have the option of going from the Thumb to the lake outlet, either by stage or by boat, without addi- tional charge; but it seems to be impossible to accomplish anything in this direction. The Yellowstone Lake Boat Company several years ago, and before any road was constructed from the Upper Geyser Basin to the Thumb, was granted the privilege of placing a small steamboat on the lake, to be run as an excursion boat. After the completion of the road from the Upper Geyser Basin to the Thumb it was per- mitted to carry such passengers as desired to go from the Thumb'to the Lake Hotel, a distance of about 18 miles, for a charge of $3 per head. Tourists who take this trip over the lake regard the charge as exorbitant, and many complaints have been made concerning it. Many complaints having been made in the past concerning the excessive charges, etc., for the hire of small boats on the lake, it is therefore recommended that some competition be also introduced in this business and that some other individual or company in addi- tion to the Yellowstone Lake Boat Company be authorized to keep small boats for hire, both at the Lake Hotel and at the Thumb lunch station. The introduction of competition in the small boat business will be no violation of the provisions of the lease of the present boat company, for it is distinctly stated therein that no exclusive privi- lege is granted to this company to carry on a boat business on the lake. LARGE GAME IN THE PARK. The summer tourists in the park seldom have an opportunity of seeing much of the large game, which, to the lover of wild animals, constitutes one of its most interesting features. The proper time to see and study the wild animals of the park is during the winter, or after the snow has fallen on the mountains to such a depth as to drive them down into the lower country. Up to the present time there have been no proper accommodations in the park during the winter for taking care of those who would like to come in at that season, but in the near future it is probable that this trouble will be remedied by the building of a suitable hotel at Mam- moth Hot Springs, within 5 miles of the main entrance of the park. After the snow has fallen it is not necessary to go any farther into the park than this point in order to see all of the wild animals that are to be found within its limits at any season, with the exception of the bear. 6 ACTING SUPERINTENDENT YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. • It has been only within the last two or three years that these ani- mals could be seen in such close proximity to the Mammoth Hot Springs, and the reasons for this fact are due to a few simple changes in the park management, as follows: First. No dogs are allowed to run at large in the park, and when they are brought in by campers or others passing through they must be carried in wagons and kept tied up when in camp. It is a fact that any kind of a dog running at large, while he will probably do no harm to the game, will run it all out of the section where it is ranging. Second. A fence about 4 miles long has been built along the north- ern line of the park, which excludes all stock that for a number of years has grazed within the limits of the park and completely used up the grass, which is now preserved for the wild animals. No stock of any kind is now permitted to run at large in the vicinity of the Mammoth Hot Springs, and where they formerly grazed during the summer elk and deer can now be seen feeding during the winter. In order to be successful in keeping wild game on any reserve it is absolutely necessary either to preserve their natural feed for them or to supply them with hay, etc., and even where the natural supply of feed is preserved it is well to have a supply of hay on hand, in order to help out the weaker animals each spring, for there is always a period when the old grass is nearly all gone and before the new grass is ready for use which is very trying for all wild animals. It is for this reason that an effort has been made to a limited extent in the park to feed certain kinds of game each spring. The animals so fed are the sheep, the deer, and the antelope, and the results have been remarkable in at least two ways—it has rendered them exceed- ingly tame and caused them to recognize man as their friend in- stead of an enemy; and while they will not permit one to touch them, they can be approached within a reasonable distance at any time without their showing the least sign of fear. It has also resulted in a great improvement in their physical condition, and starts them off in the spring, when the females are about to have their young, in such good shape that few are lost from any cause. Three years ago a deer was seldom seen anywhere about the Mam- moth Hot Springs, and only occasionally a few tracks could be seen in the snow showing where they had crossed over the parade ground of Fort Yellowstone during the night. As a matter of experiment, and with a hope that some of these animals which passed through the post might be induced to come around where they could be seen, a few bales of alfalfa hay were scattered about the parade ground. The result was remarkable, for on the second day after the hay had been put out about a dozen blacktail deer appeared. The next day this number was doubled, and from day to day the number increased, until finally they numbered considerably over 100. It was extremely interesting to see how quickly these animals lost all fear of human beings, and even when the evening gun is fired within 100 yards of them they pay little or no attention to it, but show much more interest in the lowering of the flag from the staff, which is located in the center of their feeding ground. The mountain sheep, which are supposed to be the wildest of all of our western animals, have also shown the same friendly disposi- tion under the same conditions, and have become even tamer and they cofan enen caused the two waylee in such good shape then the femaphysical · ACTING SUPERINTENDENT YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 7 fact thing in nuconsists Tapidly disathat we have probably up ostate of monta protected rapidly. This more fearless than the deer. These animals are becoming very rare, and are difficult to find in any section of the country. It is there- fore desirable that the few we have in the park should be carefully preserved and their number increased as rapidly as possible. There are now about 100 of these animals that make their home at all times entirely within the limits of the park. Next to the mountain sheep the antelope are probably the most interesting and attractive animals that we have in the park, and, like the sheep, they are rapidly disappearing throughout the West. · The park herd consists of about 1,500 animals, and seems to be increasing in numbers quite rapidly. This increase is due to the fact that they are protected not only in the park, but throughout the State of Montana. The summer range for the antelope is well up on the Yellowstone River and entirely within the park, and in old days their winter range extended far down the Yellowstone and they seldom remained in this section after the first heavy fall of snow. The valley of the Yellowstoné north of the park is now com- pletely taken up by ranchers, and their wire fences running in every direction have completely shut off the old winter range of the ante- lope, and they are now compelled to remain at all times entirely within the limits of the park or very close to its borders. Last fall 800 antelope were, counted upon the alfalfa field near Gardiner, and at the same time a number of smaller bands could be seen in the foothills above the field and on the slopes of Mount Everts, on the opposite side of the Gardiner River. The elk are by far the most numerous of all the large game which we have in the park, and it is a very difficult matter to determine exactly, or even approximately, how many there are. During the summer nearly all of the elk pertaining to the neighboring sections of Wyoming, Idaho, and Montana range entirely within the limits of the park, but during the winter it is probable that at least one- half of this entire number goes out into the neighboring States, but, owing to the rapid settlement of the country and the consequent decrease in the amount of feed, their outside or winter range is decreasing from year to year, and each year they show a greater inclination to remain within or near the borders of the park. - Few people know or realize that each year the bull elk shed their wonderful antlers. Many of these shed antlers have been collected from time to time and are used as fences for protecting the lawns about the Mammoth Hot Springs, but their use for such purposes has been discouraged for the reason that the average tourist, seeing them lying about in such numbers, imagines that there has been a terrible slaughter of elk in the park. The bull elk begin shedding their horns usually about the 1st of March, but sometimes they lose them much earlier, and others carry them until sometime in May. During the period when they are shedding and while the new horns are growing, the bulls are usually found in bands of vari- ous sizes, separated entirely from the cows, and living peaceably among themselves. Later on, when their horns become fully devel- oped, which is ábout the last of September, a change comes over their peaceful natures; they separate and are ready for a fight at any time. This is the beginning of the rutting season, and each bull makes an effort to gather into a herd all of the cows that he can persuade to stay with him, and it is the most interesting period dur- 9474-05- 2 8 ACTING SUPERINTENDENT YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. ing which to study the habits of the elk. The bulls are easily located at this season by their whistling: This is a peculiarly weird sound, which commences with a high, shrill whistle and ends with a roar. It is apparently used as a call for his band of cows or a challenge to other bulls. It is frequently answered by the younger bulls, which roam about some distance away from the herd of cows, but the chal- lenge to fight is seldom accepted. When President Roosevelt and Mr. John Burroughs were in the park, about two years ago, they climbed to the top of a hill which overlooked a part of the valley of the Yellowstonë, near the point :: where the Lamar River flows into it, and by the aid of powerful field glasses they counted the elk in view, and as a result of their count they concluded that there were 3,000 elk in sight. A number of other bands were seen by the President, but no effort was made to count them. The President's trip, while quite an extensive one, did not cover all of the winter range of the elk, but the number seen by him gave him a very fair idea of what he could find if he wished to do so. As none of these elk ever leave the park and but few of them have died or been killed by mountain lions, it is evident that we still have a goodly number of them in the park, and quite enough to stock it well, even if there were no more. A large band of elk, some 400 or 500 in number, makes its win- ter home close to the Mammoth Hot Springs. As long as the con- dition of the snow will permit, they remain on the south side of the ridge just back of the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, but occasion- ally they can be seen trooping down from this ridge, passing within a few hundred yards of the hotel, on their way to a lower feeding ground, and whenever this happens, it is said, you can look out for a big snowstorm. In passing from one feeding ground to another the elk frequently encounter very deep snow, and this they pass through in single file, the strongest of the bulls taking the lead so as to break the trail, the leaders falling out one after another as they become exhausted. There are a number of moose in the park, but they are seldom seen, as they range chiefly along the Upper Yellowstone River and in the southeastern corner of the park, which is a very inaccessible country at present, owing to the lack of roads or trails. The killing of these animals is now prohibited in the State of Wyoming, and it is hoped that they will rapidly' increase in numbers, and also move farther up into the park. When the park was first set aside as a Government reserve, there was quite a large herd of buffalo within its limits, but as there was no law or regulation prohibiting hunting for a number of years after its establishment, this herd was soon reduced to a very small one, and what was left of it was driven back into the most inaccessible part of the park, and into an exceedingly unfavorable country for buffalo to winter in. There are now about 30 of these animals left, and they have been located for a number of years on the head of Pelican Creek. The only way that they can keep alive during the winter is by grazing on the few places kept open by the hot springs, for their range is very high and snow falls there very deep and remains until late in the spring. They could be driven out of that locality and possibly a few of them caught up, but it is more ACTING SUPERINTENDENT YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 9 than likely that a greater part of them would be killed in the attempt. Instead of attempting to catch up the old ones, men are sent out early in the spring for the purpose of capturing the young calves, which are brought in to the Mammoth Hot Springs, raised by a domestic cow, and then turned out in an inclosure with the tame herd. With a view to preventing the buffalo from becoming extinct, in the year 1902 Congress appropriated $15,000 for the purpose of starting a new herd in the park. With this fund a herd' of 21 animals was purchased and the necessary inclosures in which to keep them were constructed. The herd purchased consisted of 3 bulls from the Goodnight herd of Texas and 18 cows from the Allard herd of Montana. One of the bulls was turned out with the wild herd on Pelican Creek with a view to introducing new blood in that herd, but he wandered away from them last winter and died on the edge of Yellowstone Lake near the Thumb station. The increase in this new herd has been exceedingly encouraging, and, includ- ing the 3 calves which have been caught up from the wild herd, it now consists of 44 animals, which is more than double the number with which we startanimals, which is ught up from the and, Interior ent number of ever becomte in the The beaver are certainly increasing rapidly throughout the park, and to-day the signs of their work can be seen along every stream, These exceedingly interesting and valuable little fur-bearing ani- mals have become almost extinct in the greater part of the United States, and should it ever become desirable to restock any section à sufficient number of these animals can, with the permission of the Interior Department, be provided for the purpose. The bear are about the only animals that the summer tourists can not fail to see, and they are always a great source of amusement and interest to them. It is a difficult matter to make some of the tourists realize that the bear in the park are wild, and that it is a dangerous matter to trifle with them. The black and the brown bear are exceedingly afraid of the grizzly, and with good cause, for they will kill and eat the young of the black and the brown when- ever they can get hold of them. It is said the grizzly will also eat its own cubs, and for this reason the females always desert the males when they have their young, and keep away until the cubs are large enough to take care of themselves. In addition to the above-named animals mountain lions, lynx, and coyotes are also to be found within the limits of the park. As the lions and coyotes are somewhat destructive to other game, such as elk, deer, and sheep, and also a pest to stockmen of the surround- ing country, they are destroyed whenever the opportunity affords. The killing of these animals is, however, made a matter of business and not of sport, and only a few persons are permitted to do this killing, and they are scouts and certain good shots among the sol- diers. A general permit to kill these animals would result in endless trouble in the matter of protection of other game. At the last session of the legislature of the State of Wyoming a tract of land extending for a distance of about 25 miles south of the Yellowstone Park and along nearly its entire southern border was set aside and designated as a game preserve. This was an exceed- ingly wise provision on the part of this State, as it will not only tend to preserve the large game of the State of Wyoming, but will also diends, and there, and onlus is, ho 10 ACTING SUPERINTENDENT YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. ------------------ assist greatly in the protection of game pertaining to the park along its southern border. In spite of reports to the contrary, large num- bers of elk which spend the summer in the Yellowstone Park now winter in this preserve. FISH AND FISH HATCHERY. The following report from the United States Bureau of Fisheries shows what work has been done in the park during the past season by the Fish Commission: DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE AND LABOR, BUREAU OF FISHERIES, Spearfish, S. Dak., September 28, 1905. Sir: Your letter of September 24, with reference to the work of the Bureau of Fisheries at Yellowstone National Park during the present calendar year, was received upon my return from Hill City to-day. The following plants of brook trout (Salvelinus fontinalis) were made: May 25, 1905: Ice Lake...-.-.- . -.-.-.-.-..-..- 11,000 Gibbon River, above Virginia Cascade........ 17,000 May 26, 1905: Swan Lake. 10,000 Indian Creek and headwaters of Gardiner River...... 25,000 May 27, 1905, Willow Creek....................... ... 40,000 The Bureau of Fisheries operated the hatchery at West Thumb from May 29 until August 1, collecting during that time 5,100,000 black-spotted trout eggs (Salmo clarkii). Of these eggs 200,000 were shipped to the Government fisheries exhibit, Portland, Oreg;; 50,000 to C. H. Townsend, director New York Aquarium, New York; 565,000 to the Bureau of Fisheries station, Bozeman, Mont.; 91,000 to the Bureau of Fisheries station, White Sulphur Springs, W. Va. The following plants of fry were made: July 26, 1905: Duck Lake.. 200,000 Fisheries Creek, West Thumb..... 127,600 July 31, 1905, Ice Lake, between Fountain Hotel and Excelsior Geyser.... .... 47,000 During the period of incubation 450,000 were lost from imperfect fertilization and other causes, and the balance, 3,369,400, were shipped to Spearfish, S. Dak., for hatching. All the shipments were received in excellent condition, and the fish were unusually vigorous. Yours, very truly, D. C. BOOTH, Superintendent Fisheries Station. Maj. JOHN PITCHER, Acting Superintendent Yellowstone National Park. ENLARGEMENT OF FORT YELLOWSTONE. My recommendation of last year that this post be increased to a four-troop, or squadron, post is renewed, and it is earnestly hoped that the necessary buildings for the two more troops required may be soon provided. The need of this enlargement is now urgent. At present the buildings and equipment accommodate only two troops of cavalry, which was a sufficient force for the protection of the park at the time the post was built, in 1892, but it is now far from ade- quate. In the thirteen years that have elapsed since then the game in the park has multiplied almost beyond belief, and there has also been an enormous increase in the number of visitors, the number during the season just ended being 26,188, whereas in 1892 it was only about 4,000. There has likewise been a steady growth in population around the park, making necessary greater vigilance in guarding the park bound- ACTING SUPERINTENDENT YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 11 aries throughout the year, and all these elements of growth have more than doubled the duties and labors of the troops. During the summer season this post and its garrison are constantly under the critical observation of visitors from all over the world, and it should therefore be made in all respects a model post. With the enlargement of the post and its garrison it will be possi- ble to carry on much military training, drill, and other instruction so neccessary to the efficiency of troops, but now impracticable. The Board of General Officers of the Army that considered and * reported on the permanency of army posts in, I think, 1903 recom- mended that Fort Yellowstone be made a squadron post; a similar recommendation has been made by the commanding general of this department in his report for this year, and an enlargement of the post was recommended by the Chief of the General Staff in 1904. In my opinion there will be no difficulty in getting the two addi- . tional troops as soon as accommodations are provided for them at. this post, for the reason that at present there are not sufficient bar- racks and quarters in this department to accommodate all of the cavalry troops belonging to it. TOURIST TRAVEL THROUGH THE PARK. . The aggregate number of persons carried through the park over the regular route during the season of 1905 is as follows: Carried by Yellowstone Park Transportation Company, entering via north- ern entrance of park........ ....... 10,881 Carried by Monida and Yellowstone Stage Company, entering via western entrance of park..... Others at hotels, traveling with private transportation, bicyclers, etc...... 1,279 ----------... 2,654 Carried by William W. Wylie and accommodated at his permanent camps. --- 14,814 3,668 Carried by other licensees of personally conducted camping parties... . 1,719 Total.... .... Total number camping, traveling with licensed transportation ...... 5,387 Total number of tourists traveling through the park with private transportation as "camping parties”. 5,987 Grand total of all visitors to the park, season 1905.... 26,188 During the season 7,362 tourists took the trip across the Yellow- stone Lake with the Yellowstone Lake Boat Company. Of this number 3,092 entered the park with the Yellowstone Park Trans- portation Company, 552 with the Monida and Yellowstone Stage Company, 3,510 with William W. Wylie, and the balance, 208 people, were campers. CONSTRUCTION AND REPAIRS OF ROADS, BRIDGES, ETC. The following statement, furnished by Maj. H. M. Chittenden, Corps of Engineers, U. S. Army, who is in charge of improvement work in the park, shows what has been done in the way of building and repairing roads and bridges and other improvements in the park, under the appropriations made by Congress for this purpose. It also gives an estimate of what should be appropriated for future work along the same lines. 12 AOTING SUPERINTENDENT YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. IMPROVEMENT OF YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. The work which has been done during the past fiscal year, and which will be practically completed by the close of the present season, has been carried on under the appropriation of April 28, 1904, and that of March 3, 1905. The following are the main features of this work: RECONSTRUCTION AND IMPROVEMENT OF ÉXISTING ROADS. Beginning at about the eleventh mile post from Mammoth Hot Springs on the road to Norris, the road was practically reconstructed by correction of grades and thorough resur- facing with a foundation of broken rock over all soft ground. The same character of work was carried on from Norris Geyser Basin to Gibbon Canyon, and was particularly thorough over the marshy tracts known as Elk Park and the Gibbon Meadows. From Excelsior Geyser to the Upper Geyser Basin similar work was done, all the sharp' pitches being cut out and evened up so as to reduce them to an easy gradient. From the Upper Geyser Basin to the head of Spring Creek Canyon on the Continental Divide much work of a similar character was done." A large portion of the road along the Yellowstone River between the lake and the Grand • Canyon has been resurfaced with a foundation of rock and a wearing surface of gravel. The road from Norris to the Grand Canyon, which is the most unsatisfactory location in the park, never having been laid out on any rational system, was largely improved by cutting down the hills and filling the hollows, widening and surfacing and otherwise com- pensating as far as possible for the defects of the original location. In particular the road down the high hill at the Grand Canyon was relocated so as to give an easy gradient. This stretch of road lies entirely in heavy clay deposits and is exceedingly hard to maintain during the periods of wet weather. It was heavily paved with broken rock which was covered with gravel, and it is believed that it will stand in good shape. . The road from Thumb Station to Lake Outlet, by way of Natural Bridge, was com- pleted by grading to full width and surfacing with the best material available. Along the lake shore at the Thumb the alignment was in many places corrected so as to shorten the distance and even up the gradients. The road across the summit of Mount Washburn was practically completed, including both the low line through Dunraven Pass and the high line passing over the summit of the mountain. There remains about a half mile on the low line that will require further widen- ing. This road has been one of great difficulty of construction, not only because of the general presence of solid rock in all portions, but particularly because of the shortness of season and the very wet condition of the ground until late in the summer. The road over the summit has been made 18 to 20 feet wide instead of 12 feet as contemplated in the original estimate. This road, it is fully believed, will meet all the expectations of those who have favored its construction and will form one of the finest attractions in the tour of the park. From Tower Falls to Mammoth Hot Springs the road has been entirely opened and com- pleted as a permanent part of the system, thus completing the belt line or general circuit. Much work was done on the Cooke City road from Yellowstone River to the northeast boundary of the park. An entirely new alignment was made from the Yellowstone River to near Soda Butte, the road crossing the Lamar River near the mouth of Slough Creek instead of near the mouth of Soda Butte Creek as formerly, and the greater part of it has been opened to travel. The very dangerous piece of road near Soda Butte, known as the Jackson Grade, has been cut out by new road 4,000 feet long on the immediate bank of the Lamar River. The road from the Grand Canyon to Inspiration Point, which serves to give a fine view of the Grand Canyon, has been largely widened and otherwise improved near its terminus at Inspiration Point. The road opened early last season from the steel-concrete bridge over the Yellowstone to Artist Point has been completed. On the east road a large amount of work has been done from Sylvan Pass 12 miles east where it was too narrow for safe travel. Considerable work has also been done on the west road in the matter of widening it in narrow places and resurfacing and otherwise improving its condition. BRIDGES The following bridges have been built during the period above mentioned: The 5-span steel arch bridge over the Middle Gardiner River which was in progress of erection at the date of the last annual report was duly completed. The steel truss over the same river at the 7-mile post between Mammoth Hot Springs and Norris was also constructed. AOTING SUPERINTENDENT YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 13 Steel truss bridges were built over Nez Perce Creek near the Fountain Hotel ard over the Firehole River above Excelsior Geyser. A fine steel arch bridge was erected over Tower Creek where the road crosses a short distance above Tower Falls. A number of wooden bridges were also built, the principal ones being the following: A large crib structure without trusses over the Lamar River on the Cooke City road. Bridges over the Big and Little Blacktail creeks on the road between Mammoth Hot Springs and Tower Falls. Reconstruction of the bridge over the Gibbon River at Norris. Reconstruction of two bridges over the Firehole River; one on the old road from the Lower Basin to Excelsior Geyser, and the other just above the Upper Geyser Basin. Relocation and reconstruction of bridges over Trout and Antelope creeks. Construction of a new bridge over Grinnell Creek on the east road, and the construction of a viaduct by which the road down the mountain on the east side of Sylvan Pass is made to pass over itself in order to secure the necessary, reduction of gradient. Numerous small bridges have been built or reconstructed and most of the existing wooden bridges have been redecked. CULVERTS. The policy of the replacing of wooden culverts with vitrified clay pipe has been steadily continued until this work now extends over a greater part of the system. SPRINKLING. The sprinkling system heretofore inaugurated has been extended until it now covers 100 miles of road, in accordance with the existing project. The system has given very general satisfaction and works in admirably with the maintenance and repair of the roads. STATION HOUSES. Three station houses were built at different points in the park for the use of the super- intendent, and small quarters for officers' use were erected at 11 of the stations. GUARD RAILS, ETC. A new platform and guard rail was built at the brink of the Lower Fall of the Yellow- stone and an inclined stairway built for the convenience of tourists in descending the Canyon on the right bank a short distance below the falls. Guard rails have also been built around the Paintpots at the Fountain and around Mud Geyser. SIGNS. The mile posts and sign boards at the road junctions and some other signs have all been repainted. MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS. The grounds at Mammoth Hot Spriñgs have been maintained and the effort to improve conditions at this point has been highly successful; in fact, the improvements amount to a complete revolution of the former unsatisfactory state of things. GARDINER ENTRANCE. The improvements at the north entrance to the park have also been maintained and are in satisfactory condition. The Northern Pacific has recently done considerable work at this point under the supervision of this office. The alfalfa field, which was established for the use of the superintendent in the mainten- ance of game in the northern part of the park, has proven very successful and has improved the appearance of the roadway for three-fourths of a mile from the north entrance. PLANT. The plant pertaining to the work has been brought to a satisfactory state of complete- ness, and, together with the buildings at Mammoth Hot Springs, forms an ample provision for any future work that is.likely to be required. 14 ACTING SUPERINTENDENT YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. ESTIMATES. The work which was undertaken under the continuing appropriation four years ago has been practically completed, and there has also been done considerable work not contem- plated in the original estimates. All the roads which it has ever been proposed to build are now open to travel. The road over the summit of Mount Washburn, from Dunraven Pass to the north side of the mountain, 7 miles, has been made an 18 to 20 foot road nearly all the way, instead of a 12-foot road as at first planned. Only a few minor changes of location in some of the older roads remain to be made, and the eastern and southern approaches will not require general enlargement until railway facilities in those directions are materially advanced beyond their present condition. The sprinkling system has been developed to the full extent contemplated and has largely mitigated the dust annoyance on the main circuit. There are but few portions of the roads that can not now be traveled with speed, safety, and comfort equal to what it was hoped to obtain with the funds granted by Congress. The estimate herewith submitted is therefore for maintenance only, no additional work having been authorized by Congress. It is based upon careful records of the cost of similar work during the past fiscal year, taking into account also the considerable expansion of the system due to the completion of the road from the canyon to Mammoth Hot Springs via Mount Washburn and Tower Falls. It is made up as follows: General work..... .... $45,000 Sprinkling (an average of 30 sprinklers for 80 days per season)...... 30,000 Total......... 75,000 This figure must be considered a minimum.' It should be granted in a lump sum under the general head of maintenance. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - FUTURE WORK. Having complied with official requirements in regard to estimates for the maintenance of a completed project, I desire now to submit a statement as to the future needs of this work. While the park is now provided with a thoroughly good road system, the traffic upon it is continually increasing and has in fact practically doubled since the work began four years ago. It has completely outrun the expectations upon which the original estimate was based. If this increase is to continue, and the managers of the park business believe it is, a new situation is created which must be met in the near future. Main circuit.—There will be first considered the main circuit or belt line which all tour- ists travel, and also the northern and western approaches which are the only ones that now have important railroad connections. The mileage is about 180 miles, including some extra roads at Mammoth Hot Springs and Gardiner. Width. The standard width of 18 feet for the road surface must be widened to at least 25 feet. Guard walls.-Owing to the more frequent meeting of vehicles and the necessity of turn- ing out where the road is on steep side hill slopes, guard walls will have to be built in all these places. Such walls should be built-in mortar and the existing retaining walls should be rebuilt in the same manner. Fallen timber.The dead and down timber should be cleared up for a width of 100 feet along each side of the roads as a precaution against forest fires and as a general improve- ment to the appearance of the roads. Bridges and culverts.-It has been the policy during the past four years to replace worn- out bridges with concrete or steel, and culverts with vitrified clay pipe. This policy should be continued until all the old structures are so replaced. . Ditches, etc.-As a result of the increase in travel, there has developed a strong demand on the part of the stage companies that the road grade and the ditches be so modified, wherever at all practicable, that teams may be driven off the road on one side or the other in case of meeting runaways. To carry out this requirement generally in a country like this will be an expensive matter, but when the stage companies declare it to be essential to the safety of their passengers it is difficult to resist the demand. Western approach. The great development of business on the western approach and the decision of the Union Pacific lines to build to the west boundary make necessary the imme- diate enlargement of that approach to the full standard of the main circuit. Sprinkling.—The sprinkling system will have to be somewhat extended, although I do not think that sprinklers will be found necessary on the greater portion of the Mount Washburn division. There should be added 2 sprinklers for the road from Norris to the canyon, 4 for the western approach, and 6 for the road between the canyon and Mammoth Hot Springs via Tower Falls12 sprinklers in all. ACTING SUPERINTENDENT YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 15 The widening of the roads and making them so that teams can drive out of them, the erection of guard walls where necessary, the reconstruction of the western approach, exten- sion of the sprinkling system, the clearing up of dead and down timber, the replacing of existing wooden bridges and culverts with steel and concrete or vitrified clay pipe, will cost on an average for the 180 miles, $3,000 per mile, or $540,000. The road surface.—The great problem to be solved is the road-surface problem. During the past four years probably nine-tenths of the main circuit has been surfaced with one kind of material or another. In some places machine-crushed rock has been used, in others hand-broken stone in large pieces for a foundation, with some other material for a surface. Gravel has been used wherever it could be found, and where neither rock nor gravel has been available resort has been had to such local material as actual experience has shown to wear best. The results have been on the whole good, but not sufficient for present needs; and the greater part of the system must be redealt with in a more thorough manner. There is a dearth of good material nearly everywhere and an entire absence of it in many places. Wherever the cost will not be prohibitory, crushed rock should be used for both foundation and surface, and should be put in by the most approved method and with subdrain- age wherever necessary. In some few places a fine quality of natural crushed rock is found. Where rock can not be found that will stand wear and exposure, inferior rock may be used for a foundation, to be covered with the best surfacing material available. Wherever good gravel can be found it should of course be utilized to the utmost. It makes an easier road for horses than rock does and is, altogether, an excellent material. But after all these resources are exhausted there will still remain many miles where there is none of the above material within practicable distance and where it will be necessary to rely upon a well-built dirt road. While it is not possible to make a precise division of the mileage to which these different grades of .surfacing will apply, I would roughly estimate that of the 180 miles here con- sidered, about 75 miles can be treated entirely with crushed rock; about 40 miles with rock foundation and gravel or earth surface, and about 40 miles with gravel alone. For the remaining 25 miles, where neither rock nor gravel can be had, recourse must be had to the best natural material that can be found within economical distances. Estimating a width of surfacing of 25 feet and an average depth of 8 inches, the quantity of material required will be about 3,260 cubic yards per mile. The cost of this material in place, including preparation of road bed, rolling, and finishing, and taking an average for all localities near and remote, will be not less than $2.50 per cubic yard for crushed rock, $2 for mixed rock and gravel, $1.50 for gravel, and $1 for selected earth. Applying these figures to the above mileage gives the following results: 75 miles rock work, at $8,150 per mile..... $611, 250 40 miles mixed work, at $6,520 per mile..... 260, 800 40 miles gravel work, at $4,890 per mile.... 195,600 25 miles earth work, at $3,260 per mile..... 81, 500 Total.. ........ 1,149, 150 Less important roads.—The 170 miles of the park road system not included in the above embraces the eastern and southern approaches, the road from near Tower Falls to Soda Butte and Cooke City and the various short side roads throughout the park. Until rail- roads come much nearer the park boundaries on the east and south than at present, these approaches will not need material enlargement beyond their actual condition. The same is true of the Cooke City road. The side roads, where they are constantly in use, should be developed to keep pace with the rest of the system. From the present outlook I believe that the development work necessary on these roads in the next ten years ought not to exceed in cost $150,000. Summary.—The total cost, therefore, of developing the 350 miles of roads in the park system as outlined above will be: Widening, guard walls, etc......... - $540,000 Surfacing -------------------------........ .. 1, 149, 150 Less important roads....... 150,000 Add for contingencies, etc., 10 per cent. - ...... 183, 915 Total. -.. 2,023, 065 . . . Lest the above cost, with what has already been expended on the roads, may appear excessive, I would invite attention to the fact that the cost of good macadamized roads in eastern sections of the country, where economy of construction is at a maximum, ranges from $5,000 to $8,000 per mile. The Government roads in Porto Rico cost about $12,000 per mile. The total cost to date of actual construction of the 350 miles of roadway in the park is only a little over $3,000 per mile, while the average cost of the completed system 16 ACTING SUPERINTENDENT YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. as recommended above will be about $8,700. The cost per mile on the main circuit is of course much greater than this and will probably average $12,000 per mile. But consider- ing the remoteness of the work, the fact that all supplies have to be hauled on an average 40 miles from the railroad, the shortness of the season, which limits general work to about four months, and, lastly, the fact that the work is all in a mountainous country, where conditions are particularly unfavorable, the above cost must, I think, be considered very reasonable. I submit, for the consideration of the Department and of Congress, the foregoing estimate of the probable cost of perfecting the present system of roads in the park and of bringing them up to the standard of the best European roads. Without making any definite recom- mendation in the premises, I believe that it would be a measure of sound economy to adopt a new project looking to the accomplishment of this work within a limited time-say ten years. It is a work which can not be indefinitely postponed. The park is growing in importance year by year and the demands upon the roads are increasing. It will be better to recognize and anticipate these needs and provide for them by a regular annual allowance than to wait until necessity compels much larger appropriations. Very respectfully, JNO. PITCHER, Major, Sixth Cavalry, Acting Superintendent. The SECRETARY OF THE INTERIOR, Washington, D. C. ACTING SUPERINTENDENT YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 17 : Meteorological record, Yellowstone Park, Wyoming, 1904–5. OCTOBER, 1904. Temperature. Temperature. Date. Maximum. Character of day. Date. Precipitation. Minimum. Character of day. Precipitation. Minimum. Mean. Mean. o Inch Inch. Clear. ... W Partly cloudy. Saugas | Maximum. DO. Tr. Do. Do. Do. Clear. Partly cloudy. Clear. ...... 0.01 .14 .01 .09 DO Do, .03 Partly cloudy. Do. Clear. Cloudy. Do. Partly cloudy. Do. Cloudy. Clear. Cloudy. Partly cloudy. Clear. Cloudy. Do. Do. Do 15. Do. 16 Mean. 55.8 | 32.3 | 44.0 17.. Atmospheric pressure.Reduced to sea level; inches and hundredths.] Mean, 30.10; highest, on 18th; lowest, 29.66, on 15th. Temperature-Highest, 68°, on 1st; lowest, 17°, on 18th; greatest daily range, 36°, on 26th; least daily range, 10°, on 16th. Meán for this month in 1904, 44º. Wind.—Prevailing direction, southwest; total movement, 5,284 miles; maximum velocity (for five minutes), 32 miles per hour, from west, on 15th. Precipitation. Total this month in Inches. Inches. Inches. 1889... ..... 1.32 1896. ... 0.06 1902.. 0.20 1890. 1897... 1903.... . .50 1891.. 1898.. ... .67 1892. 1899... 1893. 1.34 1900. Average of this month 1894. .89 1901... for 16 years......... 1.09 1895. ... .44 1904... 2.25 2.02 1.2 9 .. Deficiency of this month as compared with average of sixteen years, 0.42 inch. Sunshine and cloudiness.-Number of clear days, 15; partly cloudy, 10; cloudy, 6; on which 0.01 inch or more of rain fell, 7. Frosts.-Dates of light, 11th, 14th, 15th; dates of heavy, none; date of killing, 17th. Total snowfall, 2.8 inches. NOVEMBER, 1904. Temperature. Temperature. Date. Character of day. Precipitation. Date. Minimum. Character of day. Precipitation. Minimum. Mean. Mean. Inch. Inch. Partly cloudy. Do. Clear. Do. actor eget eros | Maximum. rici tinch o'n oogsisisi Partly cloudy. Cloudy. Partly cloudy. Cloudy. Partly cloudy. Cloudy. Partly cloudy. Do. Do. Do. Do. Partly cloudy. Clear. Partly cloudy. Do. Clear. Do. Do. Do. Do. Partly cloudy. Cloudy. Do. .12 Do. e Cloudy. Partly cloudy. Tr. 0.01 Mean . 47.7 | 25.2 | 36. 4 W a Records prior to 1904 by post surgeon, United States Army. 18 ACTING SUPERINTENDENT YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Meteorological record, Yellowstone Park, Wyoming, 1904–5–Continued. Atmospheric pressure.Reduced to sea level; inches and hundredths.] Mean, 30.23; highest, 30,55, on 10th; lowest, 29.85, on 30th. Temperature.-Highest, 58°, on 4th; lowest, 14°, on 19th; greatest daily range, 34º, on, 12th; least daily range, 90, on 16th. Mean for this month in 1904, 36º. Wind. Prevailing direction, southwest; total movement, 5,749 miles; maximum velocity (for five minutes), 32 miles per hour, from southwest, on 20th. Precipitation. Total this month in- Inches. Inches. Inches. 1889.. .. 2.19 1896... .. 3.921902... ... 2.35 1890. ... .49 1897 2.98 1903.... 1.40 1891. ... 2.00 1898. 1.55 | 1904.. 1892. 1.90 1899 .03 1893. 2.51 1900... 1.17 Average of this month . 15 | 1901..... 1.25 for 16 years......... 1.59 1895..... 1.30 Deficiency of this month as compared with average of sixteen years, 1.41 inches. Sunshine and cloudiness.-Number of clear days, 9; partly cloudy, 16; cloudy, 5; on which 0.01 inch or more of rain fell, 4. Total snowfall, 1.6 inches. DECEMBER, 1904. . . . . . .18 1894.... Temperature. Temperature. Date. Precipitation. Minimum. Character of day. Date. Maximum. Character of day. Precipitation. Mean. Minimum. Mean. CNC | Maximum. Inch. Inch. 0.02 GO co co Tr Partly cloudy. Do. Cloudy. Do. Cloudy. Clear. Partly cloudy. Clear. Do. Partly cloudy. Clear. Partly cloudy. Cloudy. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. BNN . 10 DO Tr. Tr. Clear. Do. Do. Partly cloudy. Cloudy. Do. M Tr. - Do. cro .01 Hoe .10 Do. Do. Partly cloudy. Do. 16 Mean. 30.5 14.9 | 22.7 ... Tr, OF. 28 17 24 Atmospheric pressure.Reduced to sea level; inches and hundredths.] Mean, 30.17; highest, 30.67, on 27th; lowest, 29.50, on 22d. Temperature.a_Highest, 42°, on 7th; lowest, 10°, on 27th; greatest daily range, 27º, on 27th; least daily range, 6º, on 19th. Mean for this month'in- °F. 1887.. 1894.. 20 1901.... 1888. 22 1895. 19 1902.... 1889. 25 | 1896.... 1903.... 1890. 28 1897 19 1904...... 1891.. | 1898.. 1892.. 16 1899... Mean of this month for 1893. 24 / 1900..... 18 years............ Average daily excess of this month as compared with mean of 18 years, 1° Wind.Prevailing direction, south; total movement, 6,111 miles; maximum velocity (for five min- utes), 30 miles per hour, from northwest, on 15th. Precipitation. a–Total this month in- Inches. Inches. Inches. 1887. 2.41 .... 1.29 1902... ... 0.85 1889... 8.89 1 1896... .40 1890. 1897. ... 1.19 1891.. 2.77 1898.. . . . . ... . .. .. .. .. . .. .. . .. .46 1903... 1904.. .67 1892.. 2.17 1899... 1.90 Average of this month 1893..... .. 1.91 1900.... for 17 years......... 1.86 1894... 1.34 | 1901........................ 2.53 Deficiency of this month as compared with average of seventeen years, 0.67 inch. Sunshine and cloudiness.-Number of clear days, 7; partly cloudy, 8; cloudy, 16; on which 0.01 inch or more of rain fell, 12. . Total snowfall (unmelted), 15.1 inches. .89 .80 . 1.18 1094..................... a Records prior to 1904 by post surgeon, United States Army. ACTING SUPERINTENDENT YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 19 Meteorological record, Yellowstone Park, Wyoming, 1904–5—Continued. JANUARY, 1905. Temperature. Temperature. Date. Character of day. ., Precipitation. || Date | Maximum. Minimum. Snowfall. Maximum. Precipitation. Mean. Minimum. Precipitation. Character of day. Mean. Snowfall. In. Inch. In. Clear. Partly cloudy. Do. Do. 32 Tr. | Tr. Tr. | Tr. .01 | Tr. Do. 11 e a mnono osse A W COME88989 88 HOBB DANHWABE COW Clear. Cloudy. Partly cloudy. Do. Do. Partly cloudy. Cloudy. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Partly cloudy. Cloudy. Do. Partly cloudy. Cloudy. Partly cloudy. Do. 07 Do. 1 .1 Tr. | Tr. 12 Do. Cloudy. Do. Do. Do. ... Mean 27.9 11.9 19.9 Do. OF. Atmospheric pressure.-(Reduced to sea level; inches and hundredths.) Mean, 30.28; highest, 30.75, on 2d; lowest, 29.98, on 16th. Temperature.a-Highest, 43°, on 25th; lowest, – 16°, on 31st; greatest daily range, 26°, on 30th; least daily range, 7°, on 22d. Mean for this month in- OF. °F. 1 1887 19 1895.. 1903.. 1888 1896. 11 1904. 1889. 15 1897.. 1890 1898... 1891. 1899.. Mean of this month 1892, 1900.. for 19 years...... 1893. 1901. 1894..... 17 1902.. . 17 | 1905........................ Absolute maximum for this month for nineteen years, 49°; absolute minimum for this month for nineteen years, --41°; average daily excess of this month as compared with mean of nineteen years, 1.8°; accumulated excess since January 1, 56°; average daily excess since January 1, 1.8º. . Precipitation.a-Total this month, 0. ach; snowfall, 3.9 inches; greatest precipitation in twenty- four hours, 0.12 inch, on 29th; snow on the ground at end of month, 2.6 inches. "Total precipitation this month in- Inches. 1 Inches. Inches. 1887.. 7.70 1895. .. 4.76 1903......... . 0.60 1888... 3.93 1896. 2.21 1904.. 1889 1.05 1897 1.12 1905. 1890 6.70 1898... .48 1899 Average of this 1892. 1.40 1900 month for 19 years. 2.28 1.82 1901... 2. 26 1894... 1.82 1902. .96 .93 .25 .31 1891........ 21 .90 1893... Deficiency of this month as compared with average of nineteen years, 2.03 inches; accumulated defi- ciency since January 1, 2.03 inches. Wind.-Prevailing direction, south; total movement, 4,389 miles; average hourly velocity, 5.9; maxi- mum velocity (for five minutes), 26 miles per hour, from southwest, on 25th Weather.-Number of clear days, 2; partly cloudy, 13; cloudy, 16; on which 0.01 inch or more of precipitation occurred, 6. a Records prior to 1904 by post surgeon, United States Army. 20 ACTING SUPERINTENDENT YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. · Meteorological record, Yellowstone Park, Wyoming, 1904-5—Continued. FEBRUARY, 1905. Temperature. Temperature. Date. Maximum. Character of day. Date. Precipitation. Minimum. Character of day. Sunshine. Maximum. | Mean. Precipitation. Minimum. Mean. Sunshine. Inch ol Inch. P.ct | Tr. } 86 P.ct. 100 23 87 71 Clear. Partly clo Clear. Do. page contar con Clear. DO Partly cloudy. Do. 80 co 57 Do. 31 Do. Do 69 Partly cloudy. vicinsindoro egiten Do. 36 Do. Clear. Partly cloudy. Do. Clear. Do. Do. ON1 98 98 me Do. Cloudy. Clear. Do. Partly clo Clear. Do. Tillil 100 100 Do. 100 100 home Mean 29.1 4.8 17.0 Atmospheric pressure.Reduced to sea level; inches and hundredths.] Mean, 30.24; highest, 30.69, on 14th; lowest, 29.77, on 8th. Temperature.a-Highest, 50°, on 22d; lowest, -36°, on 12th; greatest daily range, 39°, on 3d; least daily range, gº on 20th. Mean for this month'in, °F. °F. } 'F. 1894. 1902... 1888. 1895 1903. 1889. 1896... 1904.... 1890.. 1897. 1905. 1891. 1898... 1892.. 1899. Mean of this month 1893... 16 1901.... 18 for 18 years........ 19 1887.. 14 12 27 27 DI 25 21 20 • • • • • • • • • . . . . . . . . . . . 24 . ... . .. . .. .. . .. .. .. .. . Absolute maximum for this month for eighteen years, 50°; absolute minimum for this month for nineteen years,-36°; average daily deficiency of this month as compared with mean of eighteen years, 2° Precipitation. Total this month, 0.60 inch; snowfall, 7.5 inches; greatest precipitation in twenty- th; snow on the ground at end of month, 0.2 inch. Total precipitation this month in Inches. Inches. Inches. 1887... .... 4.65 | 1895... | 1903.... .. 0.25 1888.. 2.02 1896. 2.07 1904.... 1.50 1889. 1.93 1897 .80 1905. .60 1890. 6.65 1898 1.21 1891.. 2.79 1899. 3.40 Average of this 1892... 1900... 1.65 month for 19 years. 1.85 1893.. 1901... .72 1894.. 1.12 | 1902. .61 Deficiency of this month as compared with average of nineteen years, 1.25 inches; accumulated defi- ciency since January 1, 3.28 inches. Wind.- Prevailing direction, south; total movement, 4,746 miles; average hourly velocity, 7.1; maxi- mum velocity (for five minutes), 27 miles per hour, from northwest, on 8th. Weather.-Number of clear days, 16; partly cloudy, 11; cloudy, '1; on which 0.01 inch or more of precipitation occurred, 6. Miscellaneous phenomena (dates of).–Auroras, 3d. 2. 10 | ·79 a Records prior to 1904 by post surgeon, United States Army. ACTING SUPERINTENDENT YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 21 Meteorological record, Yellowstone Park, Wyoming, 1904—5—Continued. MARCH, 1905. Temperature. Temperature. Date. Character of Date. day. Maximum. Precipitation. Minimum. Character of day. Mean. Sunshine. Maximum. Precipitation. Minimum. Mean. Sunshine. Inch Inch. P.ct. 8 | Tr. 19 100 Clear. 22/ Do. 100 50 78 S S S 54 44 icin #20 Norongo DE SER 8 Tr. .04 . 17 .01 55 Cloudy. Do. Partly cloudy. Cloudy. Partly cloudy. Cloudy. Do. Partly cloudy. Cloudy. Partly cloudy. Do. Cloudy. Do. Clear. Do. Partly cloudy. Do. Cloudy. Clear. Do. Partly cloudy. Do. Cloudy. Do. Do. Do. Partly cloudy. Do. Do. NN CNN ΑΛ. 18 B Serie B 25 3 30 44 126 ... 26 15.... 16.... 17_ 2 Mean 43.3 21.3 | 32.3 54 OF. °F. Atmospheric pressure.—[Reduced to sea level; inches and hundredths.] Mean, 29.99: highest, 30.46, on 2d; lowest, 29.44, on 29th. Temperature. aHighest, 60°, on 2d; lowest, 50, on 11th; greatest daily range, 38°, on 2d; least daily range, 11°, on 15th. Mean for this month'in °F. 1887 36 1894............... 1902... 1888 1896. 1903.. 1889. 1897. 1904.. 1890.. 1898. 1905.. 1891... 1899.. 1892.. 1900. Mean of this month 1893..... 1901.. for 18 years ....... 28 1895.. 1904.. Absolute maximum for this month for eighteen years, 60°; absolute minimum for this month for nineteen years, -22°; average daily excess of this month as compared with mean of eig n years, 5.4°; accumulated excess since January 1, 1.67º; average daily excess since January 1, 1.98. , 1.41 inches; snowfall, 17.1 inches; greatest precipitation in twenty- four hours, 0.32 inch, on 26th; snow on the ground at end of month. 0.2 inch. Total precipitation this month in- Inches. Inches. Inches. 1888. 3.12 2.79 1902.... 1889. 1896.. 2.62 ................. 2. 46 1903.. .85 1890. 1897. . 1.06 2.98 1891. 1898. . 1.40 1905. . 1.41 1892 1899. . 3.00 1893. 1900. 3. 13 Average of this 1894.... 2.30 1901... month for 18 years. 2.08 Deficiency of this month as compared with average of eighteen years, 0.67 inch; accumulated defi- ciency since January 1, 3.95 inches. Wind.-Prevailing direction, south; total movement, 5,623 miles; average hourly velocity, 7.6; maxi- mum velocity (for five minutes), 32 miles per hour, from northwest, on 26th. Weather.-Number of clear days, 6; partly cloudy, 12; cloudy, 13; on which 0.01 inch or more of precipitation occurred, 14. Tiain ' .. 1.46 . a Records prior to 1904 by post surgeon, United States Army. 22 AOTING SUPERINTENDENT YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. Meteorological record, Yellowstone Park, Wyoming, 1904–5—Continued. APRIL, 1905. Temperature. Temperature. Date. Character of ll Date. day. Precipitation. | Maximum. Minimum. Character of day. Maximum. Sunsbine. Mean. Precipitation. Minimum. Mean. Sunshine. Inch P.ct. P.ct 1...... Clear. Partly cloudy Clear. Do. Inch.) ..... Tr. | 10.04 Do. 47 Partly cloudy. Do. Cloudy. Partly cloudy. Do FOCO Do. DO. 57 60 gnese 28 Do. Do. Do 62 or 45 r. Partly cloudy. Do. Cloudy. Clear. Do. Partly cloudy. Do. Do. Cloudy. Do. Mean 49.9 24.7 37.3 Do.' Cloudy. Partly cloudy. Cloudy. Do. 30... 1 .04 13.... 14.... 15.... 16... A ------ °F. 1 OF. Atmospheric pressure. [Reduced to sea level; inches and hundredths.] Mean, 29.95; highest, 30.46, on 4th; lowest, 29.43, on 12th. Temperature.a-Highest, 61°, on 25th; lowest, 7º, on 11th; greatest daily range, 43º, on 11th; least daily range, 89, on 16th. Mean for this month in- °F. 1887. 39 1894. 1902.. 1888.. 1896.... 1903. 1889. 1897... 1904.. 1890. 1898. 1905.............. 1891 1899. 1892... 1900.... Mean of this month 1893..... 31 1901.... for 18 years........ 37 43 37 39 Absolute maximum for this month for eighteen years, 77°; absolute minimum for this month for nineteen years, zero; average daily deficiency of this month as compared with mean of eighteen years, 0.6°; accumulated excess since January 1, 1.49°; average daily excess since January 1, 1.2º. Precipitation.c>Total this month, 1.52 inches; snowfall, 11.5 inches; greatest precipitation in twenty four hours, 0.59 inch, on 8th and 9th. Total precipitation this month in- • .96 Inches. 1 Inches. Inches. 1887... ...... 1.40 1895.... . 0.61 1902. 2.14 1889.. .92 1896. . 1.29 1903... .80 1890 . 1.39 1897. 1.21 1904. · 1891.. 1898... .95 1905... 1.52 1892... .92 1899. 2.30 1893... .97 | 1900. 1.93 Average of this month 1894...... .. 1.87 | 1901. 1.08 for 18 years......... 1.25 Excess of this month as compared with average of eighteen years, 0.27 inch; accumulated deficiency since January 1, 3.68 inches. Wind.-Prevailing direction, southwest; total movement, 5,182 miles; average hourly velocity, 7.2; maximum velocity (for five minutes), 38 miles per hour, from south, on 26th. Weather.-Number of clear days, 6; partly cloudy, 17; cloudy, 7; on which 0.01 inch or more of pre- cipitation occurred, 10. Miscellaneous phenomena (dates of).-Solar halos, 12th, 13th, and 24th. a Records prior to 1904 by post surgeon, United States Army. ACTING SUPERINTENDENT YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 23 Meteorological record, Yellowstone Park, Wyoming, 1904–5–Continued. MAY, 1905. Temperature. Temperature. Character of Date Precipitation, Date. Character of day. Minimum. day. Precipitation. Sunshine. Mean. Maximum. Minimum. | Mean. Sunshine. Inch. Inch. mr 0.25 CSA She | Maximum. .24 19 14 1 Cloudy. Do. 24 Do. Oorsa CNH Cloudy. Clear. Partly cloudy. Do. Do. Cloudy. 25 35 34 Do. Partly cloudy. Do. Do. Do. Cloudy. Do. Partly cloudy. Cloudy. como SUNNOCO GO POH **** Partly cloudy. Cloudy. Do. Do. Do. Partly cloudy. Do. Do. 60 12. 13.. 14.. 15.... 21 51. 2999 Partly clou Do. 71 38 Clear. Partly cloudy. Mean 52.5 31.6 | 42.0 - Do. 48 Atmospheric pressure. Reduced to sea level; inches and hundredths.] Mean, 29.88; highest, 30.28, on 16th; lowest, 29.32, on ſth. Temperature.a-Highest, 71°, on 31st; lowest, 21°, on 5th; greatest daily range, 40°, on 16th; least daily range, 80, on 3d. Mean for this month in- T. 1 °F. °F. 49 1895... 46 1903.... 1888.. 46 1896. 41 1904. 1889. 47 1897. :54 | 1905..... 1890. 1898 1891.. 50 1899. Mean of this -month 1892... 1900. for 19 years........ 1893... 1901... 1894..... 1902.. Absolute maximum for this month for eighteen years, 89°; absolute minimum for this month for nineteen years, 15°; average daily deficiency of this month as compared with mean of nineteen years, 4.7°; accumulated excess since January 1, 3° Precipitation.--Total this month, 2.46 inches; snowfall, 6.7 inches; greatest precipitation in twenty- four hours, 0.48 inch, on 8th and 9th. Total precipitation this month in- Inches. I Inches. 1 Inches. | 1896.. .. 3.851903... 0.65 1890... 1897.... 1.55 1904... 1.31 1891. 2.12 1898. . 1.95 | 1905. ... 2.46 1892. 2.06 1899. 2.52 1893, 1.01 1900. 2.42 Average of this month 1894.. 2.26 1901. 2.72 for 17 years......... 1.97 1895... 1889.. ... 1.40 .. .. . . 1.68 1902. Excess of this month as compared with average of seventeen years, 0.49 inch; accumulated deficiency since January 1, 3.19 inches. Wind.-Prevailing direction, northwest; total movement; 5,722 miles; average hourly velocity, 7.7; maximum velocity (for five minutes), 40 miles per hour, from west, on 20th. Weather.-Number of clear days, 2; partly cloudy, 15; cloudy, 14; on which 0.01 inch or more of pre-i cipitation occurred, 18.. Miscellaneous phenomena (dates of).-Thunderstorms, 8th, 17th, 27th. Frost: Light, 6th, 7th, 11th, 16th, 25th; heavy, 5th, 19th. 1.59 a Records prior to 1904 by post surgeon, United States Army. 24 ACTING SUPERINTENDENT YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. Meteorological record, Yellowstone Park, Wyoming, 1904–5–Continued. JUNE, 1905. Temperature. Temperature. Date. Maximum. Precipitation. Date. Minimum. Character of day. Maximum. Precipitation. Mean. Minimum. Character of day. Mean. ок Inch. 1.04 14 Do. im HiLONO Cloudy Clear. Partly cloudy.! Dr Cloudy. 1 Do. 63. 38 Partly cloudy. Do. Do. Do. Cloudy. Partly cloudy. Clear. Partly cloudy. Cloudy. Do. Clear. Partly cloudy. Do. Do. Cloudy. Partly cloudy. Do. Partly cloudy. Clear. Do. Do. Partly cloudy. 54 14... US 56 15... 16. Mean . 62.4 37.8 50.1 1 °F. °F 1887. 55 Atmospheric pressure.Reduced to sea level; inches and hundredths.] Mean, 29.84; highest, 30.07, on 11th; lowest, 29.60, on 4th. Temperature.- Highest, 77º, on 7th; lowest, 280, on 18th; greatest daily range, 41°, on 7th; least daily range, 7º, on 23d. Mean for this month in- °F. 1895. 1903......... 1888. 1896.. 1904.... 1889. 1897. 1905. 1890.. 1898. 1891. 1899. Mean of this month 1892... 1900. for 19 years........ 1893... 1901.. 1894..... 1902. Absolute maximum for this month for nineteen years, 92°; absolute minimum for this month for nineteen years, 20°; average daily deficiency of this month as compared with mean of nineteen years, 3.70; accumulated deficiency since January 1, 1.08°; average daily deficiency since January 1, 0.6º. Precipitation.a—Total this month, 3.05 inches; snowfall, 8 inches; greatest precipitation in twenty- four hours, 1.04 inches, on 17th. Total precipitation this month in- 54 1 ••.-.. 6:38 coa Inches. Inches. I Inches. 1889 ... 0.66 1896. 0.73 1903.... .. 0.90 1890 .94 1897.... 2.34 1904. . 1.03 1891.. 3.05 1898. 2.67 1905... • 3.05 1892.. 1.46 1899. 1.90 1893.. 1900... 1.17 Average of this month 1894... 10 1901.... 1.43 for 17 years......... 1.73 1895.... 2.71 | 1902.. 1.87 Excess of this month as compared with average of seventeen years, 1.32; accumulated deficiency since January 1, 1.87 inches. Wind.-Prevailing direction, southwest; total movement, 5,006 miles; average hourly velocity, 7; maximum velocity (for five minutes), 37 miles per hour, from southwest, on 27th. Weather.-Number of clear days, 7; partly cloudy, 15; cloudy, 8; on which 0.01 inch or more of pre- cipitation occurred, 12. Miscellaneous phenomena (dates of).-Solar halos, 1st, 2d; hail, 8th; thunderstorms, 4th, 8th, 12th, 14th, 24th. Frost: Light, 13th, 16th, 19th; heavy, 18th. a Records prior to 1904 by post surgeon, United States Army. ACTING SUPERINTENDENT YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 25 Meteorological record, Yellowstone Park, Wyoming, 1904–5–Continued. JULY, 1905. Temperature. Temperature. Date. Maximum. Character of day. Precipitation. Date Minimum, Character of day. Sunshine S. Maximum. Minimum. Precipitation. Sunshine. | Inch. I P.ct. Inch. i 0.13 179 Tr. 90 | Clear. Partly cloudy. Clear. Do. 100 Cloudy. Partly clo Clear. Partly cloudy. Clear. Partly cloudy. Clear. Do. Do. 8808A888.88888 | Mean. como o oso gogoraron en gos | Mean. DOS .05 risico in concora i Tr. Do. Do. COOOOO Do. Partly cloudy Do. Do. Do. Do. Clear. Partly cloudy Do. .. 18 Tr. .09 Tr. Tr. .07 . Partly cloudy. Clear. Do. 30... Partly cloudy. 31... 62 Do. Clear. Mean 75.2 44.5 59.8 Do. 61 61 62 Atmospheric pressure.-[Reduced to sea level; inches and hundredths.] Mean, 29.99; highest, 30.27, on 8th; ſowest, 29.71, on 11th. Temperature.a-Highest, 84°, on 10th; lowest, 36°, on 3d; greatest daily range, 42°, on 9th; least daily range, 20°, on ist. Mean for this month in- °F) °F. 1887 64 i 1895.............. 60 1902... 1888.. 64 1896... 62 1903.... 1889... 1897... 60 1904.... 1890. 1898. 1905.. 1891... 1899... 1892... 1900.. Mean of this month for 1894...... | 1901..... 67 18 years.. ........ Absolute maximum for this month for eighteen years, 96º; absolute minimum for this month for eight- een years, 30°; average.daily deficiency of this month'as compared with mean of eighteen years, 2.1°; accumulated deficiency since January 1, 1.73°; average daily deficiency since January 1, 0.8º. Precipitationa.-Total this month, 1.38 inches; greatest precipitation in twenty-four hours, 0.75 inch, on 15th. Total precipitation this month in- Inches. 1 Inches. Inches. .......0.56 1896.......... ....... 2.09 1903.... 1890.. 1897. . 1.11 1904.... .. 1.11 '1891.. 3.15 1898... . 1. 15 1905.. ... 1.38 1892.. 1899.... ... 1.42 1893... 1900... . .80 Average of this month 1894.. .99 1901. for 17 years.......... 1.24 1895.. .57 1902.. 2.29 1889.... 0.55 .99 Excess of this month as compared with average of seventeen years, 0.14 inch; accumulated deficiency since January 1, 1.73 inches. Wind.- Prevailing direction, southwest; total movement, 4,742 miles; average hourly velocity, 6; maximum velocity (for five minutes), 33 miles per hour, from northwest, on 23d. Weather.-Number of clear days, 16; partly cloudy, 14; cloudy, 1; on which 0.01 inch or more of pre- cipitation occurred, 9. Miscellaneous phenomena (dates of).-Hail, 11th, 318t; thunderstorms, 1st, 10th, 11th, 14th, 15th, 20th, 23d, 24th, 25th, 26th, 28th, 30th, 31st. Frost: 'Light, 3d. a Records prior to 1904 by post surgeon, United States Army. 26 ACTING SUPERINTENDENT YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. Meteorological record, Yellowstone Park, Wyoming, 1904-5—Continued. AUGUST, 1905. Temperature. Temperature. Date. Character of er of Date. day. Precipitation. Minimum. Character of day. Maximum. Mean. Sunshine. Precipitation. Minimum. Mean. Sunshine. Inch. P.ct. 78 Inch.P.ct. 80 74 51 99 57 46 via tind congesso 一F488&约约约约的红丝红红红​%的 ​Clear. Partly cloudy. Do. Clear. Partly cloudy. Clear. Partly cloudy. Clear. Partly cloudy. Cloudy. Partly cloudy. Do. Do. Clear Do. Cloudy. Mean 76.3 46.8 61.6 Do. ឧទួន៩៨៩៥ខ្ញុំខខ្ញុំ Partly cloudy. Clear. Partly cloudy. Clear. Partly cloudy. Do. Clear. Cloudy. Partly cloudy. Do. Clear. Partly cloudy. Clear. 29 Do. 56 31. 46 °F. 1887. 61 62 02 65 . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Atmospheric pressure. – Reduced to sea level; inches and hundredths.] Mean, 29.97; highest, 30.27, on 6th; Towest, 29.65, on 15th. Temperaturé.en-Highest, 85°, on 8th; lowest, 36°, on 16th; greatest daily range, 41°, on 6th; least daily range, 15°, on 25th. Mean for this month in- °F. °F. 61 | 1895 62 | 1902.. 59 1888. 1896.... 60 1903. 1889. 64 1897 1904. 1890. 1899.... 1905..... 1891. 1899... 1892... 1900... Mean of this month for 1894..... 1901. 18 years............. 62 Absolute maximum for this month for nineteen years, 93°; absolute minimum for this month for eighteen years, 30°; average daily excess or deficiency of this month as compared with mean of eighteen years, 0.0°; accumulated deficiency since January 1, 1.73°; average daily deficiency since January 1,0.7º. Precipitationa.-Total this month, 0.32 inch; greatest precipitation in twenty-four hours, 0.19 inch, on 22d and 23d. Total precipitation this month in- Inches. 1 Inches. Inches. ...... 0.64 1896. 0.37 1903..... .. 0:45 1.77 1897.... .57 1904..... .. 1.11 1891 1.22 1898... 1889... 1890... . . .. . . 2.05 1905...... 1892. .64 1899. 2.23 1893. 1.06 1900. . .29 Average of this month 1894. 1.751901. 1.65 for 17 years.......... 1.03 1895. ....72 | 1902..... .. .61 Deficiency of this month as compared with average of seventeen years, 0.71 inch; accumulated defi- ciency since January 1, 2.44 inches. Wind.-Prevailing direction, southwest; total movement, 5,247 miles; average hourly velocity,7; maximum velocity (for five minutes), 33 miles per hour, from west, on 9th. Weather.-Number of clear days, 12; partly cloudy, 15; cloudy, 4; on which 0.01 inch or more of pre- cipitation occurred, 6. Miscellaneous phenomena (dates of).-Halos: Solar, 16th, 24th; lunar, 11th. 'Thunderstorms, 1st, 2d, 3d, 7th, 9th, 10th, 11th, 12th, 13th, 22d, 27th, 29th. Frost: Light, 16th. .... .32 a Records prior to 1904 by post surgeon, United States Army. ACTING SUPERINTENDENT YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 27 Meteorological record, Yellowstone Park, Wyoming, 1904-5—Continued. SEPTEMBER, 1905. Temperature. Temperature. Date Maximum. Character of Date. day. Precipitation. Minimum. Sunshine. Maximum. Character of day. Precipitation. | Minimum. Mean. Sunshine. Lohi | Mean. Inch. P.ct. 100 hool Inch.P.ct. 0.01 14 . 86 36 100 Cloudy., O STN . c wiata in concorda Clear. Do. Partly cloudy. Partly cloudy. Clear. Do. Partly cloudy. Do. Do.. CONTACNO HOROSCOP 2899 Partly cloudy. Clear. Do. Partly cloudy. - Do. Clear. Do. Partly cloudy. Do. Do. Do. Cloudy. Partly cloudy. 04 01 Do. NOV 65 73 Do. n Clear. Partly cloudy. Clear. Partly cloudy. Do. Mean 68.3 39.4 53.8 .. Tr. 16.. 28 S °F. OF. 50 50 55 55 52 Atmospheric pressure.Reduced to sea level; inches and hundredths.] Mean, 29.93; highest, 30.28, on 2d; lowest, 29.45, on 28th. Temperature.amHighest, 83°, on 23d; lowest, 25°, on 18th; greatest daily range, 41°, on 23d; least daily range, 11°, on 29th. Mean for this month'in- °F. 1887... 56 | 1895. 1902... 1888 1896 1903. 1889 1897 1904. 1890 1898. 1905. 1891... 1899.... 1892... 1900.. Mean of this month for 1894...... 54 | 1901... 18 years... Absolute maximum for this month for nineteen years, 88°; absolute minimum for this month for eighteen years, 0°; average daily excess of this month as compared with mean of eighteen years, 1.4°; accumulated deficiency since January 1, 1.31°; average daily deficiency since January 1, 0.5º. Precipitation.aTotal this month, 1.17 inches; snowfall, 7.1 inches; greatest precipitation in twenty- four hours, 0.98 inch, on 28th and 29th; snow on the ground at end of month, trace. Total precipitation this month in- Inches.) Inches. Inches. ... 0.59 1896. .. 1. 10 1903... ........................ 0.60 . .191 1897. 1904.... .73 1891. 1.74 1898. 1905.... . 1.17 1892, 1.60 1899. .90 1893. 1.44 1900.... Average of this month 1894... .71 1 1901... 2.85 for 17 years.......... 1.00 1895.... .43 1902. .901 Excess of this month as compared with average of seventeen years, 0.17 inch; accumulated deficiency since January 1, 2.27 inches. Wind.-Prevailing direction, southwest; total movement, 6,034 miles; average hourly velocity, 8; maximum velocity (for five minutes), 37 miles per hour, from southwest, on 28th. Weather.-Number of clear days, 10; partly cloudy, 18; cloudy, 2; on which 0.01 inch or more of pre- cipitation occurred, 8. Miscellaneous phenomena (dates of):-Halos: Solar, 9th. Thunderstorms, 4th, 5th. Frost: Light, 1st, 2d, 15th, 16th, 19th, 30th; heavy, 18th. 1889... 1890. .87 a Records prior to 1904 by the post surgeon, United States Army. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK AND PART OF ABUTTING FOREST RESERVE REPORT SUPERINTENDENT YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 1905 FROM MAPS BY THE U.S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY 45°peus 50 TECHCH 40 30 20 110 1 MIN 50 109°30' S . eeeles BUFFALO PLATE 45° LINE BUFF Pilot Peak Hotel Mt Everts Republetreek 30622 4500 000er Baronett 12222 Abiathat SPeak Index Pea! ammon TOO 2 0. 1 Josep Peak HOCORROS GOVO 000 Augs Mountain of berek Cart elka annet 2000 Onamentis Rude Creek Beartooth Bute - Beertooth 7500 Gw7rcek A / Bisan Pes Rustit Faus Osprey Palts m ith Faus GAL Fawn Pass 980ssen Peak rescenta 9000 Blackbe KO BARONET S 9500 CV eek Yanceye BRIDGE Junguign Butte wimphSpr2 Calcu.espre 8300 Quadrant Mountain 9 upine Creek -9000 0 Lore 7500 Druid Peak 23500 Bannock Peak O Pase Creek TheThunderer trazt 04 R Creekt song 590002 Cache Mtn 2.90 artoo Grayling Creek 30000 Prospect Peak Jaspe Toweet'as Untercliff Sprs. Square 5 Panther Crowfoot Ridge COS SPECIM Caro Z Bighorn Passat Antler Peak On Folsom Peak Soda Bulte 9000 Granda Mt.Norris Amethyster 2009 9600 . SEO DOC 7500 otong Indian Niawie The Needles Hunter Peak C FORK KOOS SG dialar Lake ree Riv wear Rape -7000 elope Fossil 02 Forest 000 LU HURRICANE MES Obsidian The Dome lStorm Peak ce Obsilang nte Cache Greek 7500 The Crags 000 152 Hot Springs South Cache Creek BIGHORN CO. he PF YELLOWSTONE PARK TORESTIGE BOUNDAR) RESERVATI South Cache water Horse Shoe Mawroom Obsidian Cliff Beaver Lake ) The Landmarks ow Canyon Breek 1-50 Hotlite Point Amethyst Mountain hite 500 Oires - 780 id Pole Creek Wahb Sor 0036- C90001 00 Grizzly Lake Deala IICA 8000 Opdan T KUYANDOT Winter Cream Christnias Tree OLSS Straight Creek 00 Lake or the Woods Amphitheatre da a Burn M. Washburne 9000 M KR 20 Hot Springs Clearwater r Springs White Rock Springs Roaring Mo Twin Lakes Springs Dupaxen M. 2a Shallow Hedgepeak Indian Peak nome Cneel 2000 Observation Peak 0929 SOO 16 ONE er ROR SR 000 0001 the Maple Creek CAN ON Josep Hot InkPoe Washburns Hot Sps vs Hotspry Roadside Sprs Hot Spring Duck Voalsprs Springs DIY Cree 8000 Hapoose reek A poose Creek GrebeLake Mule Hot Springs 2 - 7500 Hot Springs Hot Spring Basin [Hoodoo Creek 2222 Lake Mossdrer? YELLOS 2 Solfatara Plateau 8301 Hot Springs Hoodoo BASIN - Hoodoo Peak LIGHN BASIN Asser vasin Hotel Crystal Hot Samad surface Clover Cree Bhord GRAND Hot Springs ad SEL SUNLIGHNAS 200 Parker Peak 437 Roya 7 cougar Creek loweralls 308 "Forest Springs 10000 BP Neet Waput Lakova 12 Z bodi Virginia Cascades vtyat Cibbon Gibbon Hill Spes Meadows Gibbor Hill Artists Paint Poto Monument Saddle Mt. 10678 OOO 1000 (Hvanoa IN IT 3000 Hot Springs 2000 Hot Springs Otter creek e er Springs Black Mt ur otton Grass Cre 000 Monumen H Geysers Beryl Springs Secretvalley com Dike Mt. Willow Creek Ferlake Hot Springs Ponuntpa Springs OC 8000 2009 Caciunch Sunlight 10002 PLATE OC SulphurLand prungs Purple Mt. / Pollux Peak Crack Chromd Ains Gibbon Falls 7210 40' Tern Take Bluff Creek HOBI 9000 Hot Springs olet Springs Salenia 50 RIVERSIDE STATION Castor Peak 3300 VOOR ROS 1072 7000 RO White Lake RTV le Lam River TOOR i widos 500 COVER anyon Creek Lul 12 2025 SUNLIGHT MINING REGION Hot Springs SVALLEY Indo Pelican Cone The Mudkettles Mushpots Land ME. ONA 300 600 0008 Falls 5fect cold/CNER 2000 A Notch Mt Stindak Stinkingwater Hud Gysen Jaggar Peak 00 osen Samu Trout Creek Troy Silvertip Basin ( Highland Hot Spring oping Ho Springs Mary Lake Astringe ft Creek MIS(reek Sunlight Peak Oche Springs Pyramid Peak Dead Indian PORK 12253 29000 0 7500 - out 200 Springs pice creer 000 100 3000 Shoshone P000 Hotsprings Sulphur Hills Ebro Springs Wermillion Springs 7500 MADISON PL, TEAU VOU 700.CO Tronret Tout Cerck ELEPHANT BACK h Fork Ce 1 Hot Springs HotSprings Cathedral Peak North Whirlwind Peak 9000 Nipple Mesa Tet Crek Spruce Creek seda Hygeia Springs Senliseltrees Morning Mist Sprs. veens laundry Low GEYSER Centure Geyser Hotel By Hot Springs Suttes BASIN Grat Fountain Geyser CON -1000 CO92 - yu BOUNDARY LINE Ona 9500 erage 3304 Hotel Fontain Geyser-8000 PR Grizet Creek bahce a broach Sorunde 12 buah Beach Lake Storm Point Mary Bay urbid Springs Mt Chittenden 370600 OS 2.500 NATURAL BRIDGE Bridge Bay Gull Point Sailor Peak eetwatem Creek ore Here hilfreskas Fairy Fallzusmotic lake Gejser Dryad Lake Steamboat Point Steamboat Springs Pelican isek ha Pass C02 NUOIP918 Hot Springs Roosi Butress Mt. Silvertip Peak Crow Peak Searwaler Cro Monument Mt. User tevenson sland Bunte Springs to Lake Butte 8500 ΣΕ M Weaser 500D 307 NUPPER Asplendid Geyser y Creek Hospr - yser OOC Avalanche Peak 2008 Mallard Lake - 8000 Yreek MSER N Beehi Sand Point Rock Point Elk Point Gothic Creen FainBASIN outlook Peak Grizzly Peak iddle Creek RTHA NG v Creek SHOSHO Carrington Island Purice Bluff Point Point YELLOWSTONE LAKE Dot Island Breeze Point p Notch Peak 2000 0000 De balcy Now Creek af Hills VWNÖTLYN ENOISMOTION Hot Springs SON PLATEAU Park Point Summit Lake Not Springs 9600 Meado Reservation Mone Sta Geyser CONTINENTA WEST ARM Signal HT! Last Lake Duck Lakeshado weak Wolf Point Frank Island SHO L FYA lokwater Grea y opobud SignalPoint Sheep Creek Mt.Doane Mulane ford Mt.Stevenson Fishhawk Creek Columbine Creek kocktower. Greek Eagle Creek Doublet Delusion Lako 8000 E A KE MADISON Food ek Brimstone Basin Plover Point Allurra Creek Coxcomb ME. 8000 Atkins Peak ce oshone POMOUDARN -8000 SOUTH EN adiso Solution Bas 500g Promontory Ptarmigan Mt.com SHOSHO Riddie Laky C8500 SHEEP MESA Terrace Point RESERVATION Eaglenest Mole Creek IN MOUNT MtSchurz 8000 Point Alder Lake EAST ARM Mt.Humphreys 102 Syrie Greek- Fortress Mt. SOUTH ARM 12073 Citadel Mt. s Sgwreel Beaverda TT Eagle Peak Pinnacle Mt yoose Hot Springs Molly Island hake Seclistory Factory 8000 aad y la adag Colter Peak bilCreek - beyser Basin Heart Lake -5.50 LE 9. Table Mt Rustio Geysir Battlement Mt. sten sial Trappers Crean Reteta Channel Me Qoca Cred Hot Springs Falls Turret HART TOKO WAFUSHY ISdoa yuva TROISLOTTET Surprise C PITCHSTONE PLATEAU Dice Creol Rampart Creed Iris Faus Colonnade Falls DO MOUNT McSheildar 250 3500 IS 3X02 MUY INOLSMOTIGA 469 mber Creek & Outlet CT 8000 Overlook Mt.) fountain Overtook Mt. Somber C Voush 20 ak Creek V 6.5420 age pmunk Creer 8000 Basin Creek EN TAL Scorta Ellen dou 00002 TO Ishawoda done S70 - 7800 Sickle crec est phawooa Pass OCEAN PLATEAU -0066 20 Phlox Cre punion Falls Spirea Creek 0000 2007 Red Creeti tero TRIDENT PLATEAU 2017 du 2005 Barlow Peak Open Creek 0006 1.SHA 2000 CHAWOO A MESA Lyne Ercetin Silvertip ntip Creek Crawfish CF Snake Hot.prings TRAD EN 10' Beula Ialce Birch Hills amountain Ash Creek 7000 Falls агрmеnt Sr 20000 200 0006 Hering La serata R- TerruatFolls Rainbow Falls Polecat res Mt.Hancock Moose Berg 17 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK bell Creek YELLOWSTONE PARK F RESERVATION door BOUNDARY -- -6500 ulder Creek B 11417 Thorofare Buttes TOOC LINE VA Grassy Lakes O! M1 OOT Bridger Lake Loonda Kingfisher Peak uite Creek Thorofana T000 200 BATH $71 Ypaloon Cre 80000 Shoshone ME. e Hawks Rest OC BON R 7000 * Huckleberry Mt. 09 idder Cre Coulter C SC 0099 anti Beous Creek Pinyon Peak UINTA BIGHORN Deu Creek THOROFAR Needlem v2/30 210) -022 &000 T'ats Creek Mink Creek 10500 Wildcat Peal Survey Peak 9100 STINK GWATER 12ING AEGION CARE PLATEX Needle Creek Bobcat 7000 SO 3500 Gravel Peak Sharing coes e zory YELLOWS C0929 22. La LATEAU 8000 Yellow Mt. 02 sard Creek 0009 7000 Forellen Peek JOY TETON FÖREST RESERVATION DE ELLOWSIONELPARK, FORESTS RESERVATIONE Greek BOUNDARY LINE Crater Mt. _ BOUNDARY... * LINE V YELLOWSTONE PARK FOREST RESERVATION BIGHORN CO, Tom Ashme. 11000 440 449 50 40' 30 20 10 10° 50 40' 109°30' SER JULIUS BIEN & CO LITH. N.Y. Note. - Strip of about 2 miles on north (Montana) and about the same on west ( Montana & Idaho) not included in map. The forest reservation on the south and east is only partially shown Roads and trails are indicated as follows Roads completed: Trails Roads available but not now used by Park Transportation Companies Snowshoe Cabins Scale 250,000 10 12 Miles Stations Contour Interval 100 feet ii. ANNUAL REPORT OF ". .. 1 . . 4 . 1 THE SUPERINTENDENT OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK . - - -- . . :.. TO THE SECRETARY OF THE INTERIOR . ...i 1907 TOFTH INTERIOR 11 . . . . . . 11. . .. ... WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE : 1907 . . ... 1 T ANNUAL REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK TO THE SECRETARY OF THE INTERIOR · 1907 KONTOFT DEPARSE SELNI IHYA E A2 Wy WASHINGTON : GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE : 1907 111 CONTENTS. Page. T O I S------------------------------------- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -- - - - - - - - - - - - - Gerleral conditions ------- Roads ---- Repail's ---------------- Surveys ----------------- Improvements Trausportation facilities_ Travel ----------- Hotels Fires Fish Animals and birds---- Notes on the summer birds of the Yellowstone National Park, by T. S. Palmer. Poaching ---- Trials before United States Commissioner-- Game protection Recommendations---- T I TON - - - - - - - - - --- - - - - --- - - - - - - -- - - - - - - - - - - - -- - - - - - - - - - - - -- - - - -- --- -- -- --- -- AL ------ - -- - -- -- ILLUSTRATIONS. Photograph of a sketch of grounds at Mammoth Hot Springs -- Map of Yellowstone National Park----- ANN. REPT. SUPERINTENDENT YELLOWSTONE PARK, 1907. PHOTOGRAPH OF A SKETCH OF GROUNDS AT MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS. Fort Yellowstone is shown in the left foreground; Mammoth Springs Hotel, including proposed additions, is shown to the right of the center. ANNUAL REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. . OFFICE OF SUPERINTENDENT, Yellowstone Park, Wyo., October 15, 1907. Sir: I have the honor to submit the following report of conditions in the park: : GENERAL CONDITIONS. In June, 1907, before travel in the park commenced, a thorough inspection of hotels, barns, stables, coaches, surreys, horses, harness, etc., was made, and everything was found in excellent condition. All vehicles were in good repair and freshly painted, harness was oiled and polished, and everything presented a neat and attractive appearance, excepting here and there on the grounds surrounding the barns and stables throughout the park were found masses of manure, rubbish, waste material, tin cans, and dump from hotels that had been accumulating for years. Most of these unsightly con- ditions have been remedied and all will be completely remedied before the opening of next season. The grounds around the permanent camp sites and temporary stables were not pleasing. There seemed to be much accumulation of rubbish, waste, tin cans, bottles, and cast-off clothing. Some remedial measures were applied before reoccupation for the season, and the conditions were gradually bettered during the season. I have received promise that all will be completely remedied before again occupied. The service rendered the public was excellent and fully enjoyed by a large number of tourists. Other camping grounds used by licensees who conduct camping parties and by parties owning their own transportation, especially the freighters' camps, were littered with every kind of camp waste, rubbish, tin cans, bottles, pieces of grain sacks, worn-out clothing, and other litter. These offensive sights were remedied as soon as possible. Pits were dug for camp refuse and instructions posted, and daily patrols during the camping season prevented in a great measure a recurring of these offensive and unsightly conditions. In the corrals of the Yellowstone Lake Boat Company, where buf- falo, elk, and sheep were confined during the long previous winter, the conditions were found filthy, inhumane, and disgusting, and were made the subject of a special report to the Department. These corrals were cleaned as soon as possible, and the buffalo and elk were removed to corrals on Dot Island and kept there in confinement as an attraction to induce tourists to take the boat trip. Numerous complaints were made criticising the superintendent for permitting these native wild animals to be kept in captivity in the park. The president of the Lake Boat Company was advised verbally at com- mencement of season that the Department would no longer permit 6 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. . wild animals to be kept in close captivity in the park after the close of the present season. On August 2 he was advised to same effect by letter. On August 7 he was directed to remove his buffalo and elk from the park at close of the visitors' season. He closed up his business and left the park on September 22, having removed these animals from Dot Island back to the same corrals in which they had been confined the previous winter. On September 23 he was re- quested by letter to inform this office if he intended to remove the buffalo and elk as required, and was advised that there was no desire to turn these animals loose and thereby cause him financial loss. Under date of September 26 he informed this office by letter that he declined to comply with the instructions to remove these animals. On October 15 the corral fences were taken down under my personal supervision, and these animals, 8 buffalo and 7 elk, were released from captivity. Swan Lake and the surrounding valley drain into Glen Creek, which is the source of the water supply for Fort Yellowstone and Mammoth Hotel, and for sanitary reasons, I was obliged to prohibit camping or grazing in the Swan Lake Valley, to the inconvenience of many campers. Sometimes rollicking, good-natured parties—men and women, boys and girls-pass through the park and leave the roadsides strewn with wrapping paper, paper boxes, beer bottles, candy boxes, cigar- ette boxes, newspapers, and other trash. While this can seldom be prevented, it must necessarily be remedied, and if a laborer is hired for one or two days for this purpose he objects to being compelled to wait a month for his pay to come in the form of a check from the Department. It would facilitate matters of police if a small con- tingent fund in cash were allowed to be kept on hand by the chief clerk in the park to pay for necessary jobs of this character, on the order of the superintendent. ROADS. REPAIRS. As soon as the snow was off the road leading from the north entrance to Mammoth Hot Springs, 2 miles of road was surfaced. On May 1, a crew was put to work on the Cody road, leading through the National Forest to the entrance of Sylvan Pass, on the eastern boundary of the park. The crew commenced at Wapiti and com- pleted the opening through Sylvan Pass to outlet of Yellowstone Lake, a total distance of 62 miles, early in July. This same crew, after having opened the road from Cody, spent the remainder of the summer repairing the road south of the park in the National Forest, running to Dubois, Wyo. The length of this road is approximately 90 miles. The work consisted principally in replacing several bridges and constructing new culverts. On May 1, crews were established at Beaver Lake, Beryl Spring, Excelsior Geyser, Spring Creek, junction of Lake and Canyon roads, and on lake road 6 miles from Canyon; and a carpenter crew and small general repair crew were placed on the Tower Falls road. These crews were obliged to travel over the deep snows in the very early morning when the crust was frozen strong enough to bear the animals and wagons with the camping outfit, supplies, and tools. The travel was dangerous and men and animals suffered hardships. summer repdubois, Wyo. Therincipally in repla YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. many previatic coachute was hearing roadsher and the oarelub The greatest difficulty encountered was between Upper Geyser Basin and Thumb of Yellowstone Lake, there being more snow than for many previous years. This route was made passable on June 12, and the first traffic coach crossed the Continental Divide on June 13. The pull in snow and slush was heavy. The greatest difficulty in keeping roads in repair was in the can- yon between the north entrance at Gardiner and the Mammoth Hot Springs. Two large slides containing upward of 3,000 cubic yards each occurred on this road. They were removed by means of wash- ing the dirt through culverts. During the extreme high water in July several sections of the guard walls on this road were washed out, and great difficulty was encountered in preventing sections of this road from being entirely washed out. Heavy guard walls laid in cement are needed in the Gardiner Canyon at several points—also at the Gibbon Falls, Virginia Cascades, Tower Falls Cliff, and on the Spring Tower Falls road. These walls are now laid in dry stone. The solid rock encasing the petrified tree near Yanceys was blasted out, leaving the tree 30 feet high and more than 20 feet in circumfer- ence. An iron fence with concrete base has been constructed around the tree and a road built connecting it with the main road. Another petrified tree near this one should be fenced, else it will be carried away piecemeal by tourists in a few years. Sprinkling was begun July 1 and discontinued September 5. Ap- proximately 100 miles of road was sprinkled on the circuit. About 20 miles can not be sprinkled without considerable expenditure of money to install piping The mileage of roads to be kept in repair is 111 outside the park and 306 within the park, making a total of 417. SURVEYS. In the fall of 1906 survey was made for a new road to connect the canyon with Tower Falls, in order to obviate the high climb through Dunraven Pass. This road goes to an elevation of only 300 feet above the Canyon Hotel, whereas the Dunraven Pass road reaches a point 1,100 feet higher than the hotel. The object of the road is to allow passengers to drive from the canyon to Mammoth Hot Springs in a day without additional expense. Another survey was made for a road to connect the Gallatin with the circuit near the 7-mile post. A route was surveyed through Big- horn Pass and declared unfavorable. Another route was run'up Spec- imen Creek from the Gallatin, but the survey was discontinued on account of rough country. A third survey was made from the Gal- latin up Fan Creek and Stellaris Creek, thence through the pass north of Joseph Peak. This road is also deemed unfavorable, both as re- gards distance and elevation. The distance from Bozeman outside the park to Gardiner,, thence by the main road in the park to the Golden Gate, is 69 miles. The distance between the same points up the Gallatin River via the proposed route is 95 miles. By a glance at the map it will be seen there are at present four main highways entering the park: On the north, a road from Gar- diner follows up the Gardiner Canyon to Mammoth Hot Springs and then runs through Golden Gate to interior of park; on the east, a road from Cody, up the North Fork Shoshone River, enters the park at Middle Creek, thence runs through Sylvan Pass to the interior at 16622-07- 2 gers tradditional de For a Froute herr YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. Yellowstone Lake outlet; on the south, a road from Dubois, up Snake River, via Jackson Lake, enters the park at Lewis River, thence runs north to the interior at West Thumb of Lake Yellowstone; on the west, a road follows Madison River to the interior at the junction of Gibbon and Firehole rivers. There is a road from Cooke, at the northeast corner of park, down Soda Butte Creek and Lamar River, thence via Mammoth to Gardiner. This is the only outlet or inlet to Cooke by wheel transportation, and was originally the trail lead- ing from Gardiner to Cooke traveled by prospectors and exploiters. The proposed road to connect the Gallatin Valley with the circuit road near the Golden Gate does not meet with my approval. IMPROVEMENTS. Twenty rams for pumping water into tanks were installed during the year. Also 10 new tanks were constructed, into which water is conveyed by piping. The bridge at Sulphur Creek was replaced by a 3-foot culvert and an earthen fill 180 feet long. Two other bridges, 21 miles from the canyon on Lake road, were replaced by tile and earth fill. Three houses were built on the Upper Basin road for use of crews, particularly for the snow crews in opening the roads. Upward of 14 miles on this road must be broken through. each year and deep snow the entire width of wagon has to be shoveled out. Stables for shelter of animals and forage were also built near these houses. Permanent camps were made at Beaver Lake, Beryl Spring, Excel- sior Geyser, Upper Basin, Thumb, near Lake Hotel, Trout Creek (between Lake and Canyon), and at Canyon. These camps consist of tent floors, side walls, and frame for canvas. Mangers and feed boxes were built for these camps. Platforms for accommodation of tourists getting out of coaches were built at Norris, Mud Geyser, Upper Yellowstone Falls, Inspira- tion Point, and at the Great Falls and Kepplers Cascade; stairways were built in connection with the two latter. Many toilet houses were constructed throughout the park bordering on the main roads, and on summit of Mount Washburn, where also railings were put up for securing saddle horses of visitors. All stairways and platforms throughout the park were stained to harmonize with the surroundings. About 600 new signs, made of enameled steel, were placed through- out the park on iron stakes set in cement. These signs were to replace the many signs made of wood which had previously been set up throughout the park. All road and construction work was carried on under the direction of Lieut. E. D. Peek, U. S. Engineers, and was performed in a most satisfactory manner. Under the direction of the commanding officer of the troops at Fort Yellowstone a new cabin and stable for the park guard at junction of Tower Falls road with Cooke road was constructed. The old cabin at Tower Falls station became uninhabitable and was too distant from the junction. It will be destroyed. The Monida and Yellowstone Stage Company completed the con- struction of a coach house 48 by 128 feet, Montana dressed lum- ber and shingle roof; also a superintendent's cabin 16 by 40 feet, with an addition of 16 by 16 feet, peeled logs on stone foundation and shin- gled roof, with a false roof for warmth. The following buildings :. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. are under construction, to be completed in November: Office building 16 by 32 feet; employees' mess house, 16 by 60 feet; club and lodging house, two stories, 24 by 72 feet, with bathrooms; harness and store- house, 16 by 48 feet, with addition 16 by 24 feet; grain house, 16 by 60 feet; hay barn, 24 by 100 feet; horse stable, 24 by 240 feet; black- smith shop, 24 by 48 feet; coach washhouse, 20 by 36 feet. All build- ings will have cedar shingle roof and stone foundations, and roof and sides will be painted mineral red, with black trimmings. These buildings are clumped on bench, west bank of the Madison River 11 miles from the railway terminal at the west side entrance, 1 mile north of the main road, and not in view. TRANSPORTATION FACILITIES. The Yellowstone National Park Transportation Company has in barns 4 six-horse tallyho Concord coaches of 33 seats capacity, 90 four-horse Concord coaches of 7 and 11 seats capacity, and 102 Glens Falls two-horse surreys of 3 and 5 seats capacity. It is prepared to receive and move from the terminus of the park branch of the Northern Pacific Railroad at northern entrance 150 passengers daily throughout the season, in addition to lay-overs. The Monida and Yellowstone Stage Company has in barns 28 eleven-passenger Concord coaches, 6 eight-passenger Concord coaches, 8 five-passenger Glens Falls surreys, and 8 three-passenger Glens Falls surreys. It is prepared to receive and move from the terminus of the park branch of the Oregon Short Line Railroad, at western entrance, 75 passengers daily throughout the season, in addition to lay-overs. The Wylie Permanent Camping Company has a large number of Concord and other vehicles, numbering over 50 in all, at Gardiner, and is prepared to receive and transport all parties who may desire to stop at its camps, from both north and west entrances. The persons who annually apply for license to carry parties who desire to travel with movable camps are numerous, and can accom- modate all who desire to travel in that manner. Saddle horses may be had at Mammoth, Old Faithful, Lake, and Canyon. TRAVEL. The aggregate number of persons carried through the park over the regular route during the season of 1907 was as follows: Persons corried through the parle during the season of 1907. · Yellowstone National Park Transportation Company, entering via northern entrance----- ------- 6, 282 Monida and Yellowstone Stage Company, entering via western entrance ------ 2, 270 -------- ------ 8, 552 Total, regular companies_----- Wylie Permanent Camping Company, including persons accom- modated at its permanent camps----- 2, 146 Other licenses of personally conducted camping parties---------- 1, 402 Total number camping, traveling with licensed transportation --- 3,548 Total making trip with private transportation as “ camping parties "---- 4, 314 Grand total of visitors making tour of park, season 1907-------- 16, 414 10 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. The Yellowstone Park Association accommodated 9,389 tourists at its hotels during the season. The discrepancy in the numbers stopping at the hotels and the numbers carried by both transporta- tion companies (all of whom stopped at the hotels) is accounted for in part by army officers and their families who visited Fort Yellow- stone and were carried around the park in United States quarter- master transportation, and in part by visitors making only a partial trip in the park and spending a week or two at different hotels. During the season 5,275 tourists took the trip across the Yellow- stone Lake with the Yellowstone Lake Boat Company. Of this number 2,303 entered the park with the Yellowstone National Park Transportation Company, 516 with the Monida and Yellowstone Stage Company, 2,120 with the Wylie Permanent Camping Com- pany, and the balance, 316 people, were campers. In compliance with an order from the Department, the Wylie Permanent Camping Company established a tent station near the western entrance of the park at the beginning of the tourist season, for the accommodation of any tourists who might enter the park from that direction and desire to be accommodated at their camps. There has been no demand for accommodations at this camp by tourists entering from the western entrance, and none were received from that side of the park during the season. · Travel by the different roads leading into the park was as follows: . Travel by the different entrances. By the main gate entrance on the north, Gardiner station.------------- 11, 292 By the Cooke road, northeast corner, Soda Butte station - By the Government road from Cody on the east, Sylvan Pass station -- By the road leading from Jackson Hole on the south, Snake River sta- tion -- 419 By the Madison River road on the west, Riverside station. -- 4, 150 545 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Total --- -------- 16, 414 · With reference to the western entrance, Mr. W. H. Bancroft, gen- eral manager Oregon Short Line Railroad, has kindly furnished me the following information: Yellowstone Park Railroad was incorporated September 12, 1905, for the con- struction of a line of railroad from St. Anthony, Idaho, northerly to the Madi- son River entrance of the Yellowstone National Park, a distance of about 70 miles.' Construction work commenced in October, 1905, and line opened for traffic between St. Anthony and Marysville, 16.4 miles, June 15, 1906. During 1906 and 1907 track was laid to mile No. 56, and we expect to complete the line by the middle of November, this year. This will undoubtedly increase the tourist travel in the park in 1908, especially by the western entrance. The terminal station will be on the park boundary, and many people are already asking for leases on the national forest bordering on the park boundary. It therefore becomes necessary to construct about 5 miles of fence on that boundary, from the Madison River south to the mountainous bluffs, in order to prevent encroachment on the park grounds similar to that now at Gardiner, where the front street and portions of a row of buildings (stores and residences) are on park grounds, having been placed there before the present fence was constructed. The cost of erecting 41 miles of No. 8 Montana anchor fencing at northern entrance in 1903 was $132.74 per mile, or $1,947.33. The 5 miles of This will ally by the wes and manying on th YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. : 11 necessary fence (material and construction) would cost $2,163.70. This does not include cost of gate and gateway which should be an ornamental structure of iron. Special estimate for this work has been submitted. HOTELS. . The hotels, all under one management, superintended by Mr. T. E. Farrow, were exceptionally well provided and well kept. The food was excellent, well cooked, and well served. . In order to avoid congestion at hotels, liable to be caused by large parties entering by the park branch of the Oregon Short Line Rail- road from the west, on the Monida and Yellowstone stage coaches, and large parties entering by the park branch of Northern Pacific Railway from the north on Yellowstone Park Transportation Com- pany's coaches, the route and meals and lodgings taken by any party are marked on a special chart by the hotel company and the rail- road passenger agents. A set of these charts (for June, July, August, and September) is kept in office of the general passenger agent of the Northern Pacific Railway at St. Paul, and another set is kept in office of the general passenger agent of the Oregon Short Line Railroad in Salt Lake City. Large parties always plan in advance for accommodations over railroads and in the park. When a party books for a date to arrive at north entrance, the Northern Pacific agent charts it and wires hotel company, hotel company charts it and wires. Oregon Short Line agent who charts it. And vice versa, when a party books for a date to arrive at western entrance. It is understood that the railroads will not book two large parties for same day. FIRES. We are indebted to the frequent rains for our good fortune in hav- ing no disastrous fires, and also to the constant daily patrols. The old road slashings and all dead timber should be removed from either side of the roads for a distance of 150 feet; $30,000 has been asked for this purpose in my annual estimate for 1909. The following circular on this subject has been published: Hereafter within the boundaries of this park, whenever a tree-dead or alive is felled for telegraph or telephone construction, trailway, roadway, or any right of way, for fuel, for building, bridging, or for any purpose whatever, the brush and tops must be lopped and piled in a cleared space, and—if conditions are favorable for burning without danger of the fire spreading-will be burned. There have been few fires in the park this season, and all with one exception' were discovered and extinguished by scouts, patrols, or workmen in the road crews before they became dangerous. One on Madison River, a few miles below its formation by the Gibbon and Firehole, caused considerable anxiety for two days and one night before complete control was accomplished. Lieutenant Andrews with guards gathered by telephone from Riverside, Norris, and the Great Geyser basins worked unceasingly and with determined energy and good judgment for twenty-seven continuous hours in gaining control. This fire was evidently caused by the carelessness of some one in dropping a lighted match, cigar or cigarette stub into the fire trap made by the slashing and clearing the timber for the roadway. 12. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. The area covered by this fire was about 12 acres. Others were caused by smoldering bits of wood left by campers who had, as they thought, extinguished their fires. Others were left by tramps and hobos, without making any attempt to extinguish them. FISH. 2 ܕܚ...ܝܚ The following plants of brook trout (Salvelinus fontanalis) were made during the season: May 30, Indian Creek, 34,000; May 31, Willow Creek, 35,000; June 1, Glen Creek, 30,000. Mr. D. C. Booth, superintendent of hatchery, Spearfish, S. Dak., opened the fish hatchery near the West Thumb on Yellowstone Lake on June 5, and soon after began the active work of collecting and hatching eggs of the black-spotted trout. The operations were con- tinued until July 30. During this period—say fifty days—2,660,000 (Salmo clarkii) eggs were collected. As the eggs became developed sufficiently for shipping, the following consignments were made: July 21, 1907. Superintendent fishing station, Bozeman, Mont-- 504, 000 July 26, 1907. State Fish Commission, Mount Pleasant, Pa---------- 126, 009 July 26, 1907. Wyoming Fish Cominission, Sheridan, Wyo--------- 63, 000 July 26, 1907. Eaton Brothers, Sheridan, Wyo-------------------- 63, 000 July 26, 1907. Spearfish Station, S. Dak------ 894, 000 In tributary streams Yellowstone Lake, during season (black-spotted fry)-------- 400,000 ----------- 2,050,000 The water in Yellowstone Lake was higher than at any period since the inception of fish culture in 1900, and rendered the collection of trout very difficult. Many fish have been taken by tourists and other visitors during the season, and the waters of Yellowstone River at the lake outlet seem to have an inexhaustible supply. Glen Creek, from its source to its mouth, was daily whipped by fishermen until it became necessary to prohibit fishing in its waters during the remainder of the season, as the large majority caught after August 1 were under size and were thrown back more or less injured. Sportsman Lake, in northwest corner of park, shows evidence that fish have been taken otherwise than by hook and line, and fishing has been prohibited in its waters for the present. A shipment of 15,000 rainbow trout to be planted in a tributary of Yellowstone Lake, and also of land-locked salmon to be planted. in Shoshone Lake, are promised for the autumn. Total.---- · ANIMALS AND BIRDS. Only such species of animals and birds as were found in the park when originally laid out and set aside exist here to-day. With intel- ligent management and comparatively little expense a greater variety of birds and animals could be successfully added and propagated within the park, and under the protection of a specially trained body of scouts such animals as buffalo, that have been exterminated, and mountain sheep and antelope, that are rapidly being extermi- nated in the United States outside the park, will 'undoubtedly increase in the park. Under wise protective game laws, justly and strictly administered in the neighboring States, the overflow from - 13 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. westerluring the su Valley, ander Fa the park herds will in due time restore some of the progeny to the former near-by haunts of their kind. Unfortunately the law permits the killing of one antelope in Mon- tana by any licensed hunter. A few of the park antelope have wan- dered out during the past two weeks through the streets of Gardiner, where even the dogs respect and do not chase them, and have been slaughtered by hunters in Montana. The word " slaughtered " is used advisedly, for these innocent and beautiful creatures are tame as domestic sheep. If this law remains in force, the Montana antelope will be exterminated in a few years, and the work of protecting those in the park will become more and more difficult. In my report as act- ing superintendent for 1897 it was estimated that a band of 500 ante- lope wintered in the valley of the Gardiner and on the slopes of Mount Everts. In the annual report of the acting superintendent for 1905, it is stated that about 1,150 antelope were seen and counted by scouts and by the guards at Gardiner Station. In report of the same acting superintendent for 1906 the number is estimated at about 1,500. From all information gathered I can not now place the esti- mate much above that for 1906—although in the scattered herds seen during three trips through the summer habitats of the antelope there seemed to be a fair number of fawns. Four full-grown antelope have been killed by coyotes on the Gardiner and Yellowstone flats since October 1, and it is reported that many fawns were destroyed by coyotes during the season. A remnant, eight in all, of a former large herd on the western boundary line in the Madison Valley were reported on that line during the summer. Other small bands are reported in Pelican Valley, Hayden Valley, and on meadows border- ing the Yellowstone between the Lake and Upper Falls. With these and the year's crop of fawns there may be approximately 2,000 ante- lope in the park. There is a good supply of hay on the Gardiner flat for feeding the antelope, sheep, deer, and elk during the deep snows of the coming winter. Practically all the antelope in the park herd on the Gardiner flat and the surrounding draws and slopes. The young antelope captured in June, intended for the zoological garden in London, were raised on the bottle and are now being fed on rolled oats. They will be ready for shipment about the middle or last of December. A pair of elk, male and female, captured in June, have also been successfully raised on the bottle and rolled oats. They will be shipped in December for the park in Vancouver, British Columbia. The number of elk in the park is estimated by persons of some experience at 40,000. From personal observation and information received from reliable scouts, also the daily reports of patrols and guards, 25,000 seems to be a safe estimate. Mountain sheep, whitetail and blacktail deer are increasing in numbers and growing less wild. Mr. McBride, the chief (and the oldest) scout, gives the following estimate on numbers of these ani- mals in the park: Mountain sheep, 200; whitetail deer, 100; black- tail deer, 1,000. The 29 buffalo in the fenced pasture near Mammoth produced only 5 calves. One old cow in this herd died in June. The calves are hardy. This herd, with the exception of the two original old bulls, was safely conducted to the Lamar Valley on October 12 and ing antelor flat and the actically all the elk during Gardiner 14 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. signs of 15 am in Hayden Plateau, south in the pa 13, where there is superior grazing, and where they will be herded during the daytime in fair weather and secured in the 600-acre pas- ture field during the nighttime and in foul weather. The grazing in the Mammoth pasture has not been excellent, and it has been necessary to feed hãy to this herd all summer. The 28 buffalo taken to the Lamar Valley in May last have not been fed hay and are in better condition than the Mammoth herd. The Lamar herd pro- duced no calves. The united herd numbers 59 (25 males and 34 females), not including the 2 old bulls which have been advertised for sale. Of the original wild buffalo in the park signs of 6 are re- ported on the Madison Plateau, southwest corner of park; 4 were reported seen in Hayden Valley, their old habitat, in August, and signs of 15 are reported on Mirror Plateau and Specimen Ridge, 10 miles south of Soda Butte. Total number estimated to be 25. Moose seem to have increased. The greatest number appear to be in the marshes and willows of the Upper Yellowstone, in the south- east corner of park, others are in the southwest corner on Bechler River, and a few in Gallatin Basin, in the northwest corner of park. There are many bear in the park. It was necessary to kill 1 black and 2 grizzlies that became very dangerous this season. The black and 1 grizzly were burned after being killed; 1 grizzly was skinned. The skin and skull will be sent to the National Museum when cured sufficiently for shipment. The mountain lions have been almost exterminated. The tracks of only one in the snow was reported last winter, and again during the summer in the same region. The records show that 62 of these animals were destroyed during the winters 1903-4, 1904–5, and 1905-6. None were destroyed during the winter 1906–7. Coyotes are numerous and very destructive to the antelope, young and old. The records show that 99 have been destroyed during the past year by the scouts and station guards. The majority of this number were trapped, some were poisoned, and others shot. . Foxes, badgers, marmots, 'the Fremont tree squirrels, and three varieties of chipmunks are plentiful. Beaver are abundant through- out the park. Martin, mink, otter, and muskrats are plentiful. Of rabbits we have the common hare, jack rabbit, Rocky Mountain hare (snowshoe rabbit), and chief hare (pika). The two latter are plentiful. Eighteen beaver were taken without injury and shipped to Old Forge' for the forest, fish, and game commission of New York. Large numbers of the Canada geese have reared their young in the park this season and showed little fear of molestation by visit- ors. Also ducks of many varieties, not including canvasbacks. Pelicans and gulls occupy the entire surface of one small island in Yellowstone Lake as their nursery. More than 70 species of birds come to the park to rear their young, but many of the song birds and others that generally nest near the human habitations are annually destroyed by the house cats. For this reason cats as well as dogs will not hereafter be permitted in the park. I am much indebted to Dr. T. S. Palmer, of the Biological Survey, in charge of game preservation, Agricultural Department, who spent some days in the park during this season and on my request kindly prepared the following: TY Perellowstone parketalls YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK.. . 15 NOTES ON THE SUMMER BIRDS OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. By T. S. PALMER. Visitors to the Yellowstone National Park are apt to gain the im- pression that birds are few both in number of species and individuals. Their attention is only occasionally directed to the birds along the route and is absorbed by the geysers, hot springs, and other objects of interest which constantly excite their wonder and admiration. Moreover, tourists who take the regular trip via the Mammoth Hot Springs, Norris Basin, Fountain Hotel, Upper Geyser Basin, Yel- lowstone Lake, and the Canyon, stopping each night at one of the hotels of the Yellowstone Park Association, or who follow the same general route under the guidance of the Wylie Permanent Camping Company, find the programme for each day already planned and the time too short to see even the chief points of interest. Five or six days or two weeks are entirely inadequate for gaining a general acquaintance with the fauna of a region comprising more than 3,000 square miles, greater in area than the States of Delaware and Rhode Island, and approximately one-tenth the size of the State of Maine. The brief stops at the hotels or camps and the long rides through the extensive forests on the plateau of the park, where. conditions are not favorable for variety of bird life, also afford insufficient oppor- tunities for making many observations. The more conspicuous species ordinarily seen by the tourist are included to a certain extent in a list of the names of birds which have been used to designate certain points of geographic interest. Such names are: Crow Creek, Duck Creek and Lake, Eagle Peak, Falcon "Creek, Goose Lake, Grebe Lake, Grouse Creek, Jay Creek, Loon Lake, Mallard Lake, Magpie Creek, Owl Creek, Osprey Falls, Duzel Falls, Pelican Cone, Creek, and Valley, Raven Creek, and Tern Lake. A little search, however, will bring to light a number of other less con- spicuous but not less interesting birds, and fifty or more species can readily be found along the regular tourist route. Unusually favorable opportunities are afforded for observing cer- tain phases of bird life. Especially is this true of the raptorial birds, such as the eagles, hawks, and owls, represented by 9 or 10 species, which, under the rigid protection accorded them, may be seen in greater numbers and at closer range than in most parts of the country. Unrivalled opportunities are afforded for studying the nesting and feeding habits of the osprey or fish hawk in the canyons of the Gardiner and Yellowstone rivers. Marsh hawks, sparrow hawks, and the other species may also be observed at numerous points along the route. The destruction of the smaller birds which find shelter in the Stygian and other caves on the “ Formation ” back of Mammoth Hot Springs furnishes a means of noting in a general way the prog- ress of the migration, and a visit to these caves will usually be rewarded by finding one or more species which have sought shelter in the crevices of the rock during cold nights and have been overcome by the gases. Dr. Edgar A. Mearns, U. S. Army, who was stationed at Fort Yellowstone in 1902, has published an interesting article under the title “ Feathers beside the Styx”a in which he enumerates spicuou be found orable OPEspeciallyls, repraced them, is of the readinusually l bird life ples, and the accor a Condor, Vol. V, pp. 36–38, Mar., 1903. . 16 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. the species which he found in these caves. Following is a list of 16 species which he found dead in the Stygian caves from April to December, 1902: Blackbilled magpie. Clarke nutcracker. Cassin purple finch. Pine siskin. Pink-sided junco. Green-tailed towhee. Louisiana tanager. Western warbling vireo. Audubon warbler. Macgillivray warbler. Rocky Mountain creeper. Rocky Mountain nuthatch. Red-breasted nuthatch. Mountain chickadee. Townsend solitaire. Western robin. The number of birds occasionally found in these caves, especially during migration, is surprising. On August 1, 1902, Doctor Mearns found 11 birds in the Stygian Cave, including 2 pine siskins, 4 pink- sided juncos, 2 warbling vireos, 2 Louisiana tanagers, and 1 mountain chickadee. On October 15, 1902, he reported 58 birds found in twenty caves. That these figures are not exceptional is shown by the fact that during our visit on September 12, 1907, 11 birds were found in the Stygian Cave and 21 in an adjoining cave. Those in the Stygian Cave comprised 1 flycatcher, 2 juncos, 1 sparrow, 2 pine siskins, 1 tanager, 1 Wilson warbler, 2 red-breasted nuthatches, and 1 thrush. The species found in the other cave comprised 1 Clarke nutcracker, 1 sparrow, 14 juncos, 2 cassin purple finches, 1 red-breasted nuthatch, 1 thrush, and 1 undertermined species. Doctor Mearns states: Although unable to estimate the number of birds that perished in the caves adjacent to the Mammoth Hot Springs during the past season (1902), I am of the opinion that the number reached into the hundreds, if not thousands. Birds were found dead in about thirty different caves and hollows about the “Forma- tion” between Snow Pass and the Mammoth Hot Springs hotel, near which lat- ter the lowest bird cave was discovered. This unnecessary destruction of bird life can readily be avoided, as suggested by Doctor Mearns, by covering the entrances of the caves with wire netting and thus preventing the birds from entering only to meet with sudden death. Another source of bird destruction, although not great in the aggregate, is unfortunate from the fact that it occurs about the hotels and permanent camps where it is especially desirable to increase the number of birds as much as possible. This destruction is caused by the cats which are kept at nearly every hotel, permanent camp, and soldier station, and which are continually preying on the small birds in the vicinity. The num- ber of birds thus destroyed, can not of course be accurately estimated, but a little observation will suffice to show that it is by no means inconsiderable. Prohibiting the keeping of cats in the park will undoubtedly increase the abundance of bird life at points most fre- quented by tourists. It is also possible to increase the numbers of a few species, such as bluebirds and wrens, by putting up suitable nesting boxes about the hotels and camps, and in some places where fresh water is scarce, to attract other species by providing shallow pans of water where the birds can bathe or drink. The following list is not in any sense a catalogue of the birds of the park. It contains only a small proportion of the species which occur in this region, but it includes about seventy of the more conspicu- ous ones and most of those that are apt to be found along the regular tourist route in August and September. The notes on which it is YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 17 based were made during a three weeks' visit, but with no thought at the time of preparing them for publication. Other duties de- manded most of my attention and consequently I made no special effort to extend the list or to search for certain species which are probably common but which were not observed immediately along the route. The regulations prohibiting shooting in the park pre- vented the collection of specimens, and under these circumstances it was impossible to identify some of the species. Such species are marked with an interrogation point. My visit comprised in all twenty-one days, August 7 to 21, and September 9 to 14, 1907. In August I made the regular five-day tour of the park and, on returning to Mammoth Hot Springs, I was invited by the superintendent, Gen. S. B. M. Young, to accompany him on a trip to Soda Butte. Through his courtesy an opportunity was thus afforded of visiting, under very favorable circumstances, the Lamar Valley, the lower end of the Yellowstone Canyon, and the region about Camp Roosevelt-all in the northeastern part of the park. The rest of the time, including the week in September, was spent at Mammoth Hot Springs and Fort Yellowstone. In August some species were already preparing to migrate, and in September many of those which were most conspicuous about Fort Yellowstone during my first visit had left for the south. Most of the notes were based on my own observations, but I am indebted for information regarding several species to Maj. Wirt Robinson, of West Point, who spent a month in the park earlier in the season, and whom I had the pleasure of meeting a day or two before my departure in August. I have also included notes on the species found in the caves by Dr. Edgar A. Mearns, U. S. Army, who was stationed at Fort Yellow- stone for several months in 1902. Pied-billed grebe (Podilymbus podiceps).-Apparently rather common. One was seen along the Yellowstone River a few miles below the lake on August 14, and several small grebes were noticed in the marshes at various points along the road but too far away to be identified with certainty. It is probable that the horned grebe (Colymbus auritus) and the eared grebe (Colymbus nigricollis cali- fornicus) occur at certain seasons of the year. Ring-billed gull (Larus delawarensis).-Common about Yellow- stone Lake and the outlet of the Yellowstone River. At the Lake Hotel the birds come in to feed on the garbage pile at the same place which forms such an attraction for the bears. Black tern (Hydrochelidon nigra surinamensis).-I did not hap- pen to see this species and am indebted to General Young for infor- mation regarding its presence. It is probably common about Yel- lowstone Lake and some of the streams. White pelican (Pelecanus erythrorhynchos).-The names Pelican Valley, Pelican Cone, Pelican Creek, and Pelican Roost attest the presence of pelicans about Yellowstone Lake. On August 13, while making the trip on the boat from. Thumb Station to the Lake Hotel, we observed a small flock of white pelicans on a low point near the south shore at the entrance of the west arm of the lake. The birds seemed to have young with them and were in company with a few gulls. On the same evening and on the following day a few pelicans were seen singly or in pairs or threes along the Yellowstone River felt the grenses Year: 18 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. . from the outlet to the mouth of Alum Creek. Nowhere were any large flocks seen, nor was there any evidence of the birds breeding in large colonies. In view of the abundance of fish in the lake, furnish- ing an ample food supply, there is no apparent reason why these pelicans should not be more abundant on the lake, where their pres- ence adds much to the attractiveness of the bird life of this part of the park. Mallard (Anas boschas).- Probably a common species. It was seen at several points along the route and doubtless breeds in some of the marshes and on the low ground in some of the valleys. Blue-winged teal (Querquedula discors).-Six or seven blue- winged teal, evidently migrants, were seen at Soda Butte on August 16. The species is evidently common and may breed in suitable places. Wood duck' (Aix sponsa).-I did not meet with this species, but General Young assured me that it was by no means rare and that it was found especially along the Madison River. Canada goose (Branta canadensis).-A common summer resident, breeding in suitable places. On the Yellowstone River a short dis- tance below the outlet of the lake an old goose and nine goslings were noticed on August 14. Canada geese were noticed at several other points and quite a number were seen in the Lamar Valley on August 17. Great blue heron (Ardea herodias).–Probably common. General Young states that he has observed it at Twin Lakes or along the Mad- ison River. Wilson snipe (Gallinago delicata).—Maj. Wirt Robinson, U. S. Army, informed me that he had found this snipe in Swan Lake Val- ley early in August. I did not meet with it myself. ? Least sandpiper (Tringa minutilla).-A number of diminutive sandpipers, evidently belonging to this species, were seen at Soda Butte on August 17. ? Solitary sand piper (Helodromas solitarius). In the Upper Gey- ser Basin a family of four birds, two old and two young, were found on August 12. The young birds were still in the down and could run with surprising rapidity. Spotted sandpiper (Actitis macularia).-Seen along the Lamar River. Probably generally distributed and a common breeder along the streams in the park. Kildeer (Æ'gialitis vocifera).—Common in some places. Noticed at Soda Butte August 16 and at Fort Yellowstone three days later. Dusky grouse (Dendragapus obscurus).—Apparently common, at least in some parts of the park. While returning from Soda Butte with General Young on August 17 the ambulance started four or five young birds close to the roadside in the lower end of Lamar Valley. On the following day I flushed a hen with a young bird on the hill- side a few hundred yards behind the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, and was able to approach within 30 or 40 feet of them, but in neither case did I see the color of the tail distinctly enough to determine with certainty whether the birds were dusky grouse or Richardson grouse (Dendragapus obscurus richardsoni). Mourning dove (Zenaidura macroura).–Doves are by no means uncommon and are likely to be met almost anywhere along the route. They are usually found singly or in twos or threes. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 19 V Wiley. Marsh hawk (Circus hudsonius).–One of the commonest hawks in the park. In the marshy sections of the valley or about the pools or smaller lakes it may be seen gracefully beating its way over the sedges and tules in search of food. It was especially common near Beaver Lake and in some parts of the Lamar Valley. Western red-tail (Buteo borealis calurus).—Abundant especially in the Lamar Valley, where a number were seen on August 16 and 17. Swainson hawk (Buteo borealis calcurus).—Like the preceding species, the Swainson hawk is common and generally distributed and is found in much the same places. In the more open sections of the park, such as the Lamar Valley, it is likely to be found in greater numbers than elsewhere. Golden eagle (Aquila chrysaetos).—I did not see the golden eagle in the course of our trip about the park. Both golden and bald eagles are said to be permanent residents and not uncommon. Bald eagle (Haliæetus leucocephalus).—The only specimen seen was a young bird caught in the park in a trap set for coyotes, and kept in captivity at the buffalo corral near Mammoth Hot Springs until its injuries were healed, when it was set at liberty. The birds commonly pointed out to tourists as bald eagles are in reality fish- hawks, which are very numerous at several points along the route. ? Duck hawk (Falco peregrinus anatum).—On ·August 12 two hawks, supposed to be duck hawks, were seen flying high above the road in Upper Geyser Basin about midway between Old Faithful Inn and Biscuit Basin. Pigeon hawk (Falco columbarius).-In Tower Falls Canyon and in the adjacent portion of the lower canyon of the Yellowstone sey- eral hawks were seen on the afternoon of August 17. These birds evidently belonged to this species, but were too far away to be iden- tified with certainty. The pigeon hawk is probably not rare in this region and may be looked for in almost any part of the park. 'Desert sparrow hawk (Falco sparverius deserticolus).-The little sparrow hawk is one of the commonest and most generally distributed of the raptorial birds and may be seen almost anywhere in the park darting gracefully from a telegraph pole or winging its way along the road in its search for food. Fishhawk (Pandion haliaetus carolinensis).–As the road begins to enter the canyon of the Gardiner River, a short distance from the gateway of the park, the visitor catches his first glimpse of a fish- hawk's nest, perched on a pinnacle high above the stage road. This nest is frequently photographed and commonly known as the “ Eagle's nest.” Careful observation of the old birds soon shows, however, that the occupants of the nest are fishhawks instead of bald eagles. On August 7 the nest was occupied, but on September 14, when I left the park, neither old nor young birds could be seen near it. The abundance of fish in the Gardiner and Yellowstone rivers makes the park a paradise for fishhawks and the pinnacles in some of the canyons form ideal nesting sites for the birds. In the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, only a short distance below the falls, four nests, each occupied by one or two young birds, were observed on August 14. A stiff breeze was blowing down the canyon at the time and it was interesting to see each of the young birds facing the wind, but sitting on the rim of the nest opposite the breeze, and thus, enjoying some protection even in their exposed positions. The old 20 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. birds soaring above the canyon or darting suddenly into its depths to snatch a fish from the water formed a picture not soon to be for- gotten. Western horned owl (Bubo virginianus pallescens).-Probably a common resident, but seen on only one occasion, on August 13, near the bridge over the Yellowstone River a short distance below the out- let of Yellowstone Lake. Belted kingfisher (Ceryle alcyon).—Common and generally distrib- uted. Like the fishhawk, the kingfisher finds an ideal home along the rivers, where the fish are abundant. Rocky Mountain hairy wood pecker (Dryobates villosus monti- cola).-Probably a common species, but the few glimpses I had of woodpeckers were insufficient to determine the birds with any cer- tainty. Red shafted flicker (Colaptes cafer collaris).—A common bird about Fort Yellowstone and at various points about the park. Western night hawk (Chordeiles virginianus henryi).-Among the conspicuous birds of the park the night hawk should be given a prominent place. As it flies overhead in the late afternoon and even- ing it is not only easily seen, but it constantly calls attention to its presence by its loud and characteristic note. White throated swift (Aeronautes melanoleucus).-A few were noticed in the canyon of the lower Gardiner River on August 7. Swifts doubtless breed in the canyon of the Yellowstone, where the cliffs afford ideal nesting sites. ? Calliope hummingbird (Stellula calliope).-One or two humming birds were seen in the course of our trip around the park in August, but they were either females or immature birds, so that it was imprac- ticable to identify them satisfactorily. Kingbird (Tyrannus tyrannus).-Common about Fort Yellow- stone and in the lower parts of the park near Gardiner. Olive-sided flycatcher (Nuttallornis borealis).—Not uncommon, especially at higher elevations along the roads through the forests. Flycatcher (Empidonax sp?).-On September 12 the remains of an Empidonax were found in the Stygian Cave, but the specimen was not in condition to be readily identified. Horned lark (Otocoris alpestris subsp?).-In the open stretches in Hayden Valley horned larks were common on August 14, and they were also seen a few days later in the Lamar Valley. In the absence of specimens, however, it is practically impossible to ascertain which subspecies is represented in the park. Black-billed mag pie (Pica pica hudsonia).-One seen September 12 among the pines near the Stygian Cave on the “ Formation” back of the Mammoth Hot Springs. Remains of the magpie were found in the caves by Doctor Mearns in 1902. Black-headed jay (Cyanocitta stelleri annectens).—I did not hap- pen to see this jay myself, but it is described by General Young and others as being a common bird in the park. Camp robber or Rocky Mountain jay (Perisoreus canadensis capi- talis). – One of the most conspicuous and interesting birds about the camps and stations in the park. Its inquisitiveness in search of food has earned for it the opprobrious epithet of “ Camp robber," but it is deserving of a better name. Major Chittenden in his book on YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. The Yellowstone National Park suggests that “ Camp scavenger” would more correctly describe its useful qualities. In spite of the petty depredations in which it sometimes indulges, it is worthy of the protection which it enjoys, for its tameness and its handsome plumage render it a constant object of interest to visitors. Raven (Corvus corax sinulatus).—Common and in some places unusually tame. Two were seen at close range on Dot Island in Yel- lowstone Lake on August 13. They were attracted by the feeding of some elk kept in captivity on the island and, perched on the trees near the corral, paid little attention to the crowd of tourists.. American crow (Corvus americanus). Probably a common species. Several were seen near Gardiner on August 21. Clarke nutcracker (Nucifraga columbiana).-Like the camp rob- ber, the nutcracker is one of the most attractive birds, and on account of its somewhat similar colors is frequently mistaken for the former species. It may be seen almost anywhere along the tourist route, and its characteristic note, peculiar flapping flight, and gay plumage, relieved by black wings and conspicuous white secondaries and outer tail feathers, render it unmistakable after its distinguishing marks have once been noted. W'estern meadowlark (Sturnella magna. neglecta).-Probably common in the more open parts of the park, but the great stretches of forest along much of the tourist route prevent its being observed except at favorable points. Brewer blackbird (Euphagus cyanocephalus).—Abundant almost everywhere about the hotels, in the grassy meadows, and near water in the open valleys. It is especially common on the lawns at Mam- moth Hot Springs. In September, after many of the other birds had gone, it still lingered and was then collecting in large flocks before migrating. Cassin purple finch (Carpodacus cassini).—Abundant, especially near the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, where numbers of young and old birds were seen in August. Pale goldfinch (Astragalinus tristis pallidus).—Probably common, although only a few were seen. Pine siskin (Spinus pinus).-Common. In the Upper Geyser Basin the birds were seen August 11 feeding on seeds of thistles. . Western vesper sparrow. ( Proecetes gramineus confinis).—A few seen on August 11 along the road between Gibbon Falls and the Gib- bon lunch station. Gambel sparrow (Zonotrichia leucophrys gambelli).- One of the most abundant and generally distributed birds in the park, common about all the hotels and camps and easily recognized by the conspic- uous white stripes on the head. Western chipping sparrow (Spizella socialis arizonce).-Noticed especially in the vicinity of Camp Roosevelt on August 17, but prob- ably common in many other places in the park. Pink-sided junco (Junco mearnsi).—Breeds abundantly at the higher levels along the tourist route and is common nearly every- where in the pine forests. It seems to be the species most frequently found dead in the Stygian Caves near Mammoth Hot Springs. Doc- tor Mearns records finding four in these caves on August 1, 1902; on September 12, 1907, we found the bodies of two in one cave and four- teen in another. 22 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. . Green-tailed towhee (Oreospiza chlorura).-Not observed by me, but recorded by Doctor Mearns as one of the birds found dead in the caves. It is doubtless common in suitable places in the park. Lazuli bunting (Cyanospiza amona).-I am indebted to Maj. Wirt Robinson for the note of this species. The birds had left before the time of my visit, but Major Robinson found them abundant in July about the grounds of the hotel at Mammoth Hot Springs. Western tanager (Piranga ludoviciana).-One of the most brightly colored birds found in this region. A glimpse of a male tanager in its gay mantle of yellow and black, perched on a limb or dart- ing among the trees, is a sight not soon to be forgotten. Two or three of these birds were seen in the Lamar Canyon on August 17, and several were seen at other points along the route around the park. Cliff swallow (Petrochelidon lunifrons).- Abundant at some points. A large colony was found breeding under the shelter of the projecting ledges of rock of the old geyser cone at Soda Butte on August 16, the young being still in the nest, but nearly fledged. A nest found on the “ Formation” at Mammoth Hot Springs on Au- gust 8 was remarkable from the fact that it was placed in a vertical crevice in a rock without the usual retort-shaped outer covering of mud and apparently without the use of any mud in its construction. White-bellied swallow (Iridoprocne bicolor).—Common and gen- erally distributed. Northern violet-green swallow (Tachycineta thalassina lepida).- Apparently less common than the preceding species with which it was found associated in the Yellowstone Canyon on August 14. It was probably observed also at other points, but unless the color of the back can be seen in the right light it is not always easy to dis- tinguish the violet-green from the white-bellied swallows when the birds are flying high overhead or far out over the depths of a canyon. Western warbling vireo (Vireo gilvus swainsoni). Evidently com- mon at Mammoth Hot Springs, where it was found in the woods back of the “ Formation” on August 20 in company with nuthatches, - chickadees, and several other small birds. This was one of the birds found by Doctor Mearns in the caves. Yellow warbler (Dendroica cestiva).—Probably common and gen- erally distributed. Noticed in the Lamar Valley and along the Gardiner River. Audubon warbler (Dendroica auduboni).-One or two seen in the Upper Geyser Basin on August 12. Doubtless a common species, at least at certain seasons. Macgillivray warbler (Geothlypis tolmiei).-Recorded by Doctor Mearns among the birds found in the Stygian caves, but I did not happen to see it or at least to identify it satisfactorily among the warblers seen at several points. Pileolated warbler (Wilsonia pusilla pileolata).—A beautiful spec- imen of this warbler, apparently dead but a few hours, was found in the Stygian Cave on the morning of September 12. This bird was evidently a migrant which had sought shelter from the frosty air during the preceding night. Water ouzel (Cinclus mexicanus).—In the clear streams and foam- ing cascades of the park the ouzel finds an ideal home and is probably YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 23 a common resident. It was noticed several times along the Gardiner on the road from Mammoth Hot Springs to the town of Gardiner. Rock wren (Salpinctes obsoletus). —Probably common in some sec- tions, especially in the northeastern corner of the park. It was no- ticed only on Ăugust 16 on the open hillsides of the Lamar Valley, adjoining the buffalo pasture near the mouth of Rose Creek. Western house wren (Troglodytes ædon aztecus).–Found at Mam- moth Hot Springs and at the Wylie Camp in Swan Lake Valley. Probably common at a number of other points. Rocky Mountain creeper (Certhia familiaris montana).–Probably a common species, although we did not happen to see it. Doctor Mearns mentions it among the birds found in the Stygian caves. Rocky Mountain nuthatch (Sitta carolinensis nelsoni).- Probably common, especially in the vicinity of the Mammoth Hot Springs. Red-breasted nuthatch (Sitta canadensis).-On September 12 we found the remains of three red-breasted nuthatches in the Stygian Caves. The bird is common in this vicinity and is doubtless generally distributed throughout the park. Mountain chickadee (Parus gambeli).-Abundant and readily rec- ognized almost anywhere, as it comes familiarly about the camps and utters its characteristic note. 2. Western golden-crowned kinglet (Regulus satrapa olivaceus).- Probably both the western golden-crowned kinglet and the ruby- crowned kinglet (R. calendula) are common in the park, but the birds seen near Mammoth Hot Springs on August 20 were immature and the color of the crown patch was indistinguishable. Townsend solitaire (Myadestes townsendii).–One of the sweetest songsters in the park. It is probably common in many places, but we saw it only on August 7 along the Gardiner River. Thrush (Hylocichla sp.?).-Remains of two thrushes were found in the Stygian caves on September 12, but decay had progressed too far to make it possible to identify the species with certainty. Western robin (Merula migratoria propinqua).-Abundant and generally distributed. We found it especially common on August 13 near the Lake Hotel, where it seemed to have bred in large numbers. Mountain bluebird (Sialia arctica).-One of the most attractive and conspicuous birds. It occurs commonly about the hotels and camps, where its beautiful azure plumage can not fail to attract the attention of those who are in any way interested in bird life. Doubt- less the number of bluebirds immediately about the hotels might be materially increased by putting up nesting boxes so that the birds would be encouraged to breed in greater proximity to the buildings than at present. POACHING. Evidence of poaching in former unfrequented portions of the park difficult of access have been found, particularly in the northwest cor- ner, where within the last fortnight a trapper's cabin, supplied with provisions, cooking utensils, and bedding, was found. The contents were burned and the cabin destroyed. Two snowshoe cabins were found broken open and utensils carried off. In addition to the trails shown on the map crossing the boundary lines of the park there are numerous other trailsall originally made by hunters, trappers, and prospectors. There are now four main 24 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. entrance roads leading into the park-north, east, south, and west- which seem to be sufficient for all purposes concerning the park and for accommodation of visitors. Applications have come to this office from far and near for permission to enter the park on these various trails with arms, in order to pass through the park for the purpose of hunting outside of the park. All such applications for permits to carry guns unsealed through any portion of the park have been refused, but permission to carry sealed guns has been granted to persons who enter the park at one of the regular stations where their guns may be sealed, and make exit at one of the regular stations (their route through the park being particularly specified) where their guns may be unsealed and condition reported upon. Permits to carry game or game trophies through the park have been refused. There has been much adverse criticism by hunters and guides on these rulings, but the best interests of the park demand that it shall no longer continue a thoroughfare for sportsmen, hunters, and game- slaughterers. with fined Sited State ore the copolation of TRIALS BEFORE UNITED STATES COMMISSIONER. Two poachers were convicted and sentenced to three months con- finement and costs, which latter amounted to about $1,000. One woman plead guilty through the telephone to writing her name on the hot water formation and was fined $10.50, including costs. A driver for the Yellowstone Park Transportation Company charged with violation of paragraph 4, Rules and Regulations, was convicted and fined $35.90, including costs. Three United States soldiers, members of the park guard on sta- tions, were brought before the commisisoner: One sergeant in charge of a station plead guilty for violation of paragraph 5, Rules and Regulations, and was fined $100 and costs. The case of one for dis- orderly conduct was dismissed for lack of evidence. Sergeant in charge of a station charged with violation of paragraph 2, Rules and Regulations, was acquitted on the grounds that he had only con- formed to the custom of previous years and that he had been duly authorized by his commanding officer to graze his horses. GAME PROTECTION. It seems a difficult problem to protect the game with the few scouts allowed to be employed. The two additional scouts authorized for temporary service make a material difference, but as it is, one or two soldiers are detailed to go with each scout into the regions difficult of access, and this severe and dangerous work in the very cold weather is an imposition on men with such meager pay, yet when these men take interest and do good work they certainly should receive some extra compensation. During the seven months of winter when this duty compels them to undergo such severe hardships, $13 per month with food and clothing is meagre wages “ now-a-days." RECOMMENDATIONS. Under the present plan of governing and protecting the park by a detail of troops from the Army—the commander of said troops performing the duties of superintendent of the park up to the pres- ent season—there have always been two interests to subserve. These YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 25 interests still obtain under the present plan of a superintendent not in command of the troops. These two interests are the interests of the park and the interests of the military service (discipline, training, etc.). Such details are injurious to the Army in that regimental and squadron organiza- tions are not only disturbed, but the troop organization is largely demoralized by subdividing the men into small parties far separated for indefinite periods of time without the personal supervision of an officer. The enlisted men of the Army are not selected with special refer- ence to the duties to be performed in police patrolling, guarding, and maintaining the natural curiosities and interesting formations" from injury by the curious, the thoughtless, and the careless people who compose a large percentage of the annual visitors in the park, and in protecting against the killing or frightening of the game and against forest fires. It is quite obvious that any man assigned to duty in any capacity in the park should possess special qualifications for the proper discharge of that duty, and he should be by natural inclination interested in the park and its purposes. In addition, every man should be an experienced woodsman, a speedy traveler on skis, an expert trailer, a good packer who with his horse and pack animal could carry supplies to subsist himself for a month alone in the mountains and forests, and besides he should be of a cool tem- perament, fearless, and independent character, and handy with his rifle and pistol to enable him to find and overcome the wily trapper and the ugly large game head and teeth hunter. He should be well informed in the history of the park and thoroughly cognizant with all the curiosities and points of interest therein; he should also be qualified to pass a reasonable examination in zoology and orni- thology. A visiting tourist should always be favored by an intelli- gent and courteous answer on any subject pertaining to the park from any guard interrogated. Inattention or discourtesy should sub- ject the guard to proper discipline or dismissal from the park when in the judgment of the superintendent the discipline of the park service would thereby be promoted. Divided responsibility and ac- countability as to police control and management seldom produce the best results and should no longer obtain in the Yellowstone Park. Under existing conditions the superintendent is answerable to the Secretary of the Interior, while at the same time the troops acting as park guard are held to accountability and discipline as is con- templated and provided for in the United States Army. The pay of enlisted men in the Army is too meager to attract capable men who can fill these requirements, and the duties are too onerous for the remuneration. It requires a year for new troops arriving in the park to become familiar with all the duties required of them, and during that year many of the enlistments expire and the vacancies are filled by raw recruits. At the expiration of three years, or at most four years, these troops are ordered elsewhere and new troops take their place. The proper and necessary military in- struction and training can not be carried on and thorough discipline can not be maintained. The troopers can not be examined and made subject to such tests of efficiency as good service in the park requires. Civil guards, on the contrary, would be selected by examination with reference to their special fitness, their interest in the work, and countabilituld therefor the supepline oendicon or distaining % an intelli. 26 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. their capacity to perform it; they would at the same time be subject to appropriate tests for efficient park service and subject to dismissal on failure to meet such tests. By continuous service efficient civil anization and fails ere at intole continuity oforeign and indte a pework topography, roads, byroads, pack trails, game trails, game habitats of winter and summer, and likewise with the haunts and methods of the poachers who are constantly seeking profit by invading the park to shoot game for heads and teeth and to trap for furs. The troops assigned from time to time for guard duty in the park can scarcely all become familiar with its topography and trails ere a just regard for the proper maintenance of organization and discipline and a fair division of duties, foreign and doinestic, require their withdrawal. And so continuity of service can not be had from the Army, except at intolerable expense to army organizations and discipline. Men whose continued employment is guaranteed during good be- havior and efficient work would render the task of developing as near as possible a perfect system of protection and control reason- ably easy, and the service would be more efficient and very much less expensive to the Government. În organizing a civil guard it might be necessary to select men of good repute on trial, subject to examination during the first year- but every member taken on should in due time be examined. All vacancies occurring after complete organization should be filled by inen between the ages of 21 and 45 who upon examination are found best qualified for the work. The penalty for inefficiency, incivility, dishonesty, habitual and inordinate use of intoxicants, neglect of duty, gross immorality or disorderly behavior, nd such like disabili- ties or inabilities, should be dismissal. Two years experience in governing the park with troops and com- paring the results of enforcing due observance of all rules, regula- tions, and instructions through the troops, and through the few scouts that in reality are cívil guards, leaves no doubt in my mind about the superiority of a trained and well-governed civil guard for this particular and difficult duty. While I found some excellent, intelli- gent, and conscientious noncommissioned officers and privates who have taken interest in carrying out their instructions in park duties, the majority are indifferent and appear to resent being required to subserve both the military interest and the interest of the park, not only difficult but dangerous, and much hardship must be endured in its performance. - The protection of the park and protection of the game should be under one head. The War Department should have entire control, or the troops withdrawn and a civil guard substituted, and the entire control and responsibility vested with the Interior Department. Very respectfully, S. B. M. YOUNG, Superintendent. The SECRETARY OF THE INTERIOR. 111° 110° 50 10 40 20 30 DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR GENERAL LAND OFFICE RICHARD A. BALLINGER COMMISSIONER. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK LEGEND LEGEND Park Boundary 1 Completed Roads Trails Projected Roads Stations Snowshoe Cabins Compiled from the official Records of the General Land Office. U.S.Geological Survey and other sources under the direction of FRANK BOND Chief of Drafting Division G.L.O. 1907 Scale:linch-3 Miles State Boundaries Forest Reservations GALLATIN NATIONAL FOREST 3 TER A Gardiner Park Gate VEN Soortsmc جانتا Electric Pk Hollroarin 45' Берислите GALL Hellrood Baronet PK Abithar ALLATIN Stellaria les Bello Quadrant con Rind Terrace Mountain Zure Undine Foil Glei Crescent Hill Wraith Falls Bunsen Pk. Ospreyfalls: Wancey Pass The Pocket GARDINER Swan Lake Nyn Quadrant Mountain trit Calcite Spls A Druid Pk Troutt Prospect Cache Min. ST Jasi N 2 BannockPk Undercliff Sors Sodda za The Thunderer Panther Tower Falls SPECIMEO Crowfoot Ridge Folsom SI Big Horg Pass G SE Graviny Mt Norris Crown RIDGE APA Agri / Gallalin Lake C m Indian Fossil hre storm A Thaay Obsidian Horse Shoe Cache) ntelope VHD do. the Dom 22 Pk 2X45 Amethist. Mountain etia Mt Holmes Trildbite Pt. White FOREST Winter Campgrała G Obsidian Cliff Beaver Grizzly The Landmark Lake Amphitheater Blake of the Woods Sps. Hot Sprey Clearwater Sps. White Rock Sprs. Christmas Tree Park Point Liokout Gas Straight Me Washburne Hot Spr. AIRROR Dunter Roaring Mt. ve Observation Pk SU netiss TwinLakes Hedges Pk. her Shallow Ca. s' Whistler Gerser ha Roadside w Washburne PLATEAU Ynk Pot 5 . WE Hot Sprs. Joseph's Coat Sps. teo J45 Hot Sprs. We Salle SU Hot Spring He Besin Hotel LI RIVER by Hotel MADISON piration Cascade NAT KONAL Norris Geyser Basin Solfatara Bere GIBBON Plateau tallationer alls Wapiti Lake wa Cougar Upper Falls on. Forest Kur Sprs. Bridge Virginia w Cascade 3 Saddleliin NALLEN Hot Spring Gibbon Hot Sprs. yang tersebut Gibbon fibi Ottel 26 Hot Sprs CEyser Sprs. Paint Pot Hill Y Monument Geysers Beryl Sprs. Ο. valore Mot Sps with WILO na Cotton Grass Α D Ε - Secret Valley Crateri Bluff Purple Mt. Terr Τ Violet Sprs. bits Ponuntpå sps. Ten Lake Hot Sprsa shkent White 32 Hot Sprs. S BIRU Gibbon Falls Chrome Sex HAYDEN Cr Pelican Cone E Lake City The Mudkettles VALLEY Alum MADISON The Mushpots Cold AR 45 Ft Mud Gey Wir 2. Magpie Hot Sprin Astringenting NATİONAL le c Hot Sprso Marys.Lake Pyramid Pk. Ochre Sols He cr s elican . Hot Sprs se Berge Ebro SpA Vermilion Sprs. Nexus el olnu lys Since Se Spruce CENT ELEPHANT BACK 3 a Cathedral Pk A Beats! foten Morning Mist Sprs. Queens Laundry L A 1 LOWER A surprise Geyser Fountain Geyser no Hot Spree Great fountain Geys Agt Spis. Cigar Sprs. 04 Se Hotele Fairy Sprz y Mary Bay Fotach Springs Ledgerc Turbid Lake dam Beachtahe Storm Point urbid Sprs. Mt.Chittond gorableres turper Natural.Bsjager Bridy Jones Pass/ Dryad Sailor Peak Taken Gull Point Prismatictake Excelsior Geyser Fairy Falls Egeria apertar Sprste Hat Sprs. Steamboat Sprs. Steamboat P Pelican Roost V Butte Sprs. Silver Tip Peak STEVENSON ID. y 11 Lorietatis 301 N 6 VE STATIC Cub Avalanche Hot Spr. NOU UPPERS GEYSER Splendid Geyser piantGrand Sand Point m Matlard Lake asytron Toke outlook Pk. Hero Elk Point Rock Point Old Faithe casesPeehive LAT E AU FOREST ear Gr. nr BASIN Keplers Cascade YELLOWSTONE LAKE SorizzlyPk. sylvan Pumice Point qoOTID. 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