ORA DESCRIPTIVE AND HISTORICAL TOUR FROM I I‘ \ $2 @ GLOUCESTER T0 MILFORD INCLUDING- LHE 1m u. my?“ '- §~ A. fmv. 11ml Egfigmflm'rzrm M , , 4 WITHIN AN EASY DISTANCE OF THE SOUTH WALES RAILWAY. BY J. H. CLARK. Q . Ml!’ 1-!!!’ HALIFAX : MILNER AND SOWERBY. Sold by all Booksellers and at Railway Stations, PRICE 1s. ILLUSTRATED 2s. / ,. G j’ I I,’ r .,.,(1_ ~ ‘3% ‘. flag?“ “ M r: < P 4 .l G . D .’ ~ . a» ~. c ‘e. \\ Q» imfifiwfis.‘ 6%». Ea» \bswfishfi“ E; n 1n Wunth .fl': (I? ‘ fiz'awm ; HAND BOOK‘ illunmuutbzhim & énutfi ‘i/Bflalw; ORA DESCRIPTIVE AND HISTORICAL TOUR FROM GLOUCESTER TO MILFORD, EMBRACING THE @uatlw, Qlhhmfi, ‘@HIHIIE 8< fintnmting @hinta, WITHIN AN EASY DISTANCE OF “MERE S©Ulfl€1 WAILES RAIIIIAWAYQ BY J. H. C L A R K . Gompiler of “UsK AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD,” ‘ ‘CARDIFF AND 11‘ NEIGHBOURHOOD,” “ GUIDE THROUGH MONMOI 'THSHIRE,” 6:0. Belisarius—Whither bound. Imogem—TO Milford Haven. 1/ _ " \ Shakespear e. f’ l ‘ g . i - O LONDON. ‘if \ EIJL/ HOULSTON AND WRIGHT, PATERNOSTEB nowfww" HALIFAX: HILNEB AND SOWERBY- . Sold by all the Booksellers and at the Railway Stations. PREFACE. In laying this small volume before the public, but little is required as an introduction. The inquiry so frequently made for a Handbook of the journey through that part of South Wales which is traversed by the rail, has induced its publication. The notices of the present state of the towns and villages, and the objects of interest in the journey from Gloucester to Milford Haven are detailed from a personal inspection, and an intimate connexion with the localities; and the historical portions are gleaned from the most reliable authorities. J. H. CLARK. Woodbank House, Usk, April, 1861. PREFACE. In laying this small volume before the public, but little is required as an introduction. The inquiry so frequently made for a Handbook of the journey through that part of South Wales which is traversed by the rail, has induced its publication. The notices of the present state of the towns and villages, and the objects of interest in the journey from Gloucester to Milford Haven are detailed from a personal inspection, and an intimate connexion with the localities; and the historical portions are gleaned from the most reliable authorities. J. H. CLARK. Woodbank House, Usk, ‘April, 1861. @Inmraturitim This County takes its name from the city of that name, and the city derives its nan'ie from the zuipellation be» stowed upon it by the Ancient Britons of Carer Glowe, signifying the “ Fair City.” From the fragments of ruins which have at various times been dug up, it is evident that this county was eX~ tensively populated by the Romans or Romanized Bri- tons. Under the Saxons, the county formed part of the Mercia-n kingdom, and the Anglo-Saxon monarchs are said to have had residences at lVincheomb and King’s Stanley. Tewliesbury is rendered famous in our mili~ tary annals, from the sanguinary battle fought in 1471, between the houses of York and Lancaster, which ter— minated in the defeat of the latter, and the capture of young Prince Edward, who it is alleged was subsequently murdered in the Tower by order of Richard, Duke of Gloucester, afterwards {iehard Ill This is a stain on Riehard’s fame, which has never been cleared away, There is a probability, as asserted by some historians that he had no hand in the prince-‘s death. In the contest between Charles I. and his parliament, this county was the scene of many battles. The manufactures are prii'ieipally those of superfine woollen broad cloths, fancy woollen cloths, and other a 2 eroucnsrnn. fabrics of a coarser kind. Rugs and blankets are made in some parts, and pins are manufaeturedin Bristol and Glen-1 cester. There are some paper mills in the neighbourhood of Gloucester, and flax spinning is carried on to a limited extent. The principal portion of the county may be called agricultural. PnonUe'rs—The chief exports consist of Woollen cloths, cheese, bacon, cider, perry, and grain. Lead is found in some parts of the county, and iron‘ ores are in great abundance, particularly in the Forest of Dean. RIvEns—There are several rivers connected with the county, among which are the Severn, the “Tye, the Frome, and the Avon. The Severn, which is the largest, rises at Plinllymmon, in Montgomeryshire, and passes through the counties of Salop, ‘Worcester, and Glouces- ter, Where it divides into two channels, and gradually Widens, until it receives the \Vye near Chepstow, and the Avon from Somersetshire. At the census of 1851, Gloucestershire contained 458,805 inhabitants being an increase of 27,810 on the census of 1841. GLOUCESTER. On a bright and lovely morning in September, 1859 I emerged from the Ram Hotel, Where I had found a comfortable temporary abode, and tool; a ramble through the streets of the ancient city of Gloucester. There Was a sort of fellowship existing between the city and my— self, although many long years had passed since We were known to each other ;—still We Were old friends—- it was the place of my birth, and as such, the objects GLOUCESTER. 3 that met my View were regarded with more than ordi- nary interest; although I had often pictured in my mind’s eye, the old city with its noble cathedral and its chief streets in the direction of the four points of the com— pass, yet now placed down among the fine new stately buildings and gay shops, my recollection failed me, and I did not feel to know my whereabouts until I found myself within the purlieu of the noble time-honored cathedral, for the modern hand of time and the railways had so altered the general appearance of the old city during the last thirty years, that very few of the old buildings in their new garb, bore any resemblance to the original state. From inquiries and books I learned, that the city has vastly increased in trade during the last quarter of a century, which may be attributed to the opening of the Gloucester and Berkeley Canal, and the formation of Railways branching in several directions. The appearance of the city has been much changed by recent improvements; the houses are no longer of wood, nor the streets narrow. The buildings are now principally of brick, and many of them very handsome, the shops are modernized, and the four chief streets, Eastgate, ‘Westgate, Northgate, and Southgate streets, are eominodious, well paved and lighted, and being on an easy descent each way, they are easily kept clean. Gas works were erected here in 1819, and the city is plentifully supplied with water from a reservoir about a mile distant. The principal places and buildings are the College School, founded by Henry VIII. 5 the Crypt Grmlzmar AJ“ 4; GLOUCERTFR-WPUBLTC BUILDINGS. Selzeel; the Blue Coat School, founded in 1666 ; in Which 20 boys are instructed and maintained for three years, With a bounty on leaving of £10 5 the Shire Hall, in W'estgate street, is an elegant building, the exterior is imposing, and the interior convenient; the Custom House is a neat structure, built near the docks; the Corn Exelzenge in Southgate street a fine looking building ; the New ll'arlset in Eastgate street is commo- dious and Well arranged ; the ‘own Hell is situated in the centre of the city, and on its basement is the Post Qfiiee; the Theatre in Westgate street is a nest and convenient structure ; the County Gaol which was com- pleted in 1791, stands on the banks of the Severn, and is suited for the confinement of 500 prisoners; the City Gael in Southgate street, was built in 1782, and the Brlzklewell adjoins it; the County Lzmalz‘e Asylum is about a mile distant from the city; the Lgfirma/ry and (Tilt-0% IIozese are Well suited for the purposes for which they were designed, and the Ale/20 Cattle Market is near the Railway station. Tnn CATHEDRAL is the greatest ornament of the city, and is considered one of the finest specimens of Gothic architecture in the kingdom. The length of the build- ing is 421 feet, and its breadth 144 feet. The tower one of the most magnificent of its styie in the World; it is 224 feet in height, and was completed in 1457, a few years before the snl'qn'ession of the Abbey. The roof is supported by 28 pillars in two rows. The interior of the building inspires the Visitor with awe and admirai tien. it includes every perllwtion of the QUllllif stylist“ in exact swmnctry, and its ornament»; are iudicieusly Ur GLOUCESTER—HISTORY. arranged. A great bell, weighing 6,500lbs. is erected on the first floor, and the left over contains eight beau- tifully toned bells. This noble edifice contains a very beautiful painted window, a. whispering gallery, and a number of monuments of great interest and antiquity, amongst the number are the tombs of Edward II. who was murdered in Berkeley Castle, and Robert, Duke of Normandy, who suffered an imprisonment of twenty-six years in Cardiff Castle. Hrsronr.—-King Edgar in 964, resided at Gloucester, and Edmund Ironside came here in 1016; Canute the Dane followed him, and the two kings with their respective armies met on the Isle of Arney, where a conference was held between the two monarchs, and they agreed to divide the kingdom between them. In 1051, Edward the Confessor, took up his residence’ at Gloucester and in 1053 entertained his nobles there. In 1068, he again visited the city, and on Harold suc— cceding in capturing the lVelsh chief Gryti'yth and eut~ ting off his head, sent it on the stern of his vessel to the king at Gloucester. ‘William the Conqueror often held his court here, as did also Henry I. in 1123. In 1268, it was the scene of the contest between Henry III. and his barons. In 1278~9, Edward I. assembled his Parliament here, and a Parliament was likewise held here in 1378, by Richard II ; in 1403 and 14.07, by Henry IV.; and in M20, by Henry V. In the 17th century during the Civil ‘War, the inha~ bitmts took part with the Parliament, and their eppw 6 GLOUCESTER—~SEVERN SALMON. sition to their unfortunate monarch, is said to have ac- celerated his downfall. The walls of the city were demolished soon after the testoration. TnAnn—The trade of Gloucester in corn, timber, wine and spirits is large, and the increasing prosperity of the place may be seen by the Custom House returns, which have increased nearly twelve-fold since the year 1825. The Docks are convenient for loading and un~ leading vessels, and are surrounded with extensive ware- houses for grain. A branch line of railway runs to the docks, which greatly facilitates the conveyance of goods- Tnn DUCKS form the terminus to the Gloucester and Berkeley Canal, which oins the Severn at Sharpness Point. This canal was commenced in 1799, but was not completed until 182 7, at a cost of£500,0()0. It is 17 miles long, 70 to 90 feet wide, and 18 feet deep. It has only two locks, one at each end. THE RIVER Severn abounds with excellent Salmon which being cooked fresh, has a delicious flavour. “Unlike the flabby fish in London sold, A Severn Salnlon’s worth its weight in gold.” In times by-gone, when the means of transit was at- tended with difdculty and expense, the population not one quarter so large, and the fish more plentiful, salmon was so abundantly supplied to the inhabitants, that it was the custom to enter a clause in indentures, in ac- cordance with an act of Parliament, that apprentices should not be obliged to dine off salmon, oftener than a certain number of days in a week, but this stipulation has been long rendered unnecessary, there being new no fear of the apprentices being over-fed with the “ dainty dish.” *5 GLOI’CESTEB—ANTIQUITIES. Arvrrorrrrns.——iiitttgel)elm, a place of COllSldQl‘tlblO importance to the antiquarian and historian, is situated on the north side of the city. At this place stone eoiiins, urns, spears, daggers, and other military weapons, gold rings, tessalated pavements, with a vast number of gold, silver and copper coins of the reigns of Tiberius, Clau- dius, Nero, and the early tonian Emperors, have been found. The bones of elephants have been also found deposited several feet below the surface of the soil, which led some to suppose that those relicts were the bones of the elephants, said to have been brought into Britain by Claudius, a. 1). 48. This neighbourhood was frequently the battle ground of the Britons and Saxons. Porunirron—In 1841, Gloucester contained 14,152 inhabitants ; in 1851, 17,572 inhabitants and 2843 inhabited houses. The Gloucester Journal, which is one of the oldest provincial papers in the kingdom is published here. It was started in 1722. There are two other weekly newspapers,—the Mercury and the Chronicle. BMLwiYs—The B istol and Birmingham, the Great IVestern, the Cheltenham and Oxford, the Itlxetel‘, and the South \Vales Railways run into Gloucester. The general appearance of the city indicates com~ fort and wealth. The Assizes and Quarter Sessions are held here. The city is supplied with water from works on Robin Hood’s hill. Triennial Musical Festi- vals are held in, the cathedral. 'There is a saline chaly- beate Spa and I’unip room. Inns—Albion, Southgate street; Bell, Southgate st. ; Booth Hall ; I‘ leeee ; ltam; (:‘rreyhound; (Trloueester (family and commercial) ; liing‘s llead; \Vellington ; Spread Eagle. 8 owners or run scorn WALEs LINK ‘clilgc sea; watts Emitting. This important line of railway connects the Metropo lis with the whole of South ‘Vales. It was commenced in August, 1850, and new extends from Gloucester to Milford, in Pembrokeshire. On the 19th of September, 1851, that portion of the line between Gloucester and Chepstow was opened for passenger trafiic, but a break was oc<,:asioned on the Gloucestershire side of the lVye at Chcpstow for nearly twelvemonths afterwards, on account of the unique tu- bular bridge being incomplete. The bridge was first opened with a single line of rails, and the journey was then uninterrupted as far as Swansea. This line is of abundent interest to the tourist, and in its course takes in a number of castles, abbeys, towns, (English, ‘Velsh, and Flemish) iron works, antiquities, &c. Among the objects which will attract attention may be enumerated the castle and town of Chepstow ; llloinscourt, an ancient residence of the bishops of Llan- daif ; the first Roman encampment at Portscuct; the castle of Caldicot; the once famous city of Caerwent, the Vesta S'll’llttlm of the Romans; the six agrarian castles of lllentwood, within a few miles of the Portscuett sta- tion; the commercial towns of Newport and Cardiff; Llandaff cathedral ; druidical antiquities at St. Nicholas; the town and castle of Bridgcnd; Margam abbey; the towh and abbey of Neath; the improving town of Swansea; the thriving port of Llanelly; the antiquated STATIONS on‘ THE s. w. RAILWAY. a town of Iii dwell y ; the pretty village of Ilerryside; the once important town of Carmarthen; the Flemish town of Haverfordwcst ; and the noble haven of Milford. The following are the names of the Stations on the line and the distance of each from Gloucester. GLOUCESTER. Miles. Miles. Grange Court Junction 7 Briton Ferry . . . . . . . . 91% (forRoss& Hereford) NEATII . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Nnwnimta . . . . . . . . . . 1013,; Idansamlet . . . . . . . . . . 07% Gatcombc . . . . . . . . . . . . 16% Llandore Viaduct . . . . 100% LYDNEY . . . . . . . . . . . . 19;, SWANSE A . . . . . . . . 102 Woolastmie . . . . . . . . . . ‘22 Gower Road . . . . . . . . 1057:; CIIEPSTOW' . . . . . . 27% Loughor . . . . . . . . . . . . 107% Portskewitt . . . . . . . . .. 32% LLANELLY . . . . . . .. 111 Magor . . . . . . . . . . . . . _ 37 (for LLANDILO Vawn} Lanwerne . . . . . . . . . . . . 40% I’embray . , . . . . . . . . .. 115 NEIVPORT . . . . . . . . .. 44% KIDIVELLY . . . . . . . . 120 llIarshfield . . . 40% Fcrrysidc , . . . _ . . . . . 124% CARDIFF . . . . . . . . . . 56%, CARMARTIIEN . . . . 130‘; Ely (for Llandaff) _ . . . St. Clears . . . . . . . . . . 139 St. Pagans . . . . . . . . . . 60% Ivhitland . . . . . . . . .. 144% Lrin'rnissrxr . . . . . . . . 07% Narberth Road . . . . . . 150 {for Cowmunon 5%111.) (Coach for Tenby) Pencoed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72% Clarbeston Road . . . . 156% lllIIDGEND . . . . . o . _ 76% IlilvEItFUItD-IVEST 161% Pyle , _ . _ _ _ _ _ _ , , _ , _ _ _ 82 Johnston, (for Milford) 166% Port Talbot . . . . . . . . . . MILFORD HAVEN 171 The station at Gloucester is a commodious building fitted up with every convenience. After leaving the city the first station reached is the Gannon Counr B 10 NEWNHAM—GATCOMBE STATION . Junction (Hm). A. railway diverges from this spot through a portion of the Royal Forest of Dean to Mt'tcheldean, Rose, and Hereford. Proceeding onward NEWN HAM is reached, (105m. from Gloucester). This is a small Market town. It once sent two members to Parlia- ment, but that has long ceased, and the place has im- proved but little of late years. In 1851, it contained 1288 inhabitants. The navigation of the river here is rendered dangerous even at high water by the shoals. The tide rises here apparently in one solid wave, and rushes up the river with impetuous fury. The church, dedicated to St. Peter, stands on a clitfsixty feet high, rising from the banks of the Severn. It is built with some curiously sculptured stones, which are reputed to have been preserved from the ruins of an ancient edifice which formerly stood at a place called Nab’s-end. In the interior is a very curious Anglo-Norman font, sur- rounded with carved figures of the Twelve Apostles The Town Hall is a neat building, in which the Savings’ Bank and County Courts are held. Tan yards are car— ried on here. The market day is Friday. The line from this place takes its course along the banks of the Severn. Inns—George, (commercial); Bear; Lower George. GATcoMnE STATION is next reached (16%m.) which is the halting place for BLAKENEY, a village in the parish of Awre, and which lies nearly two miles distant. On the opposite side of the Severn, is the entrance to the Gloucester and Berkeley Canal. LYDNEY—WOOLASTO'NE. 11 LYDNEY. Is shipping port for timber, bark, coals, stone, and iron mine, the products of the Forest of Dean, and a tin plate manufactory and iron works are carried on here. Theparish church of St. Mary is built in the early En- glish style of architecture, with a square tower sur- mounted by a lofty spire. An omnibus from the Fea- thers Inn meets the trains. Population, 1800. In the vicinity coal mines are worked, and a very superior kind of stone is quarried. . Lyclneg/ Perl: is seen from the line. In the park are remains of a Roman villa and two camps, with altoman bath. Fragments of tessalated pavement, urns, statues, and coins have been discovered here. Inns—The Feathers (commercial) ; Swan j. Royal Albert. Conveyances—~A coach runs from the afternoon trains through Bream and Newland to Coleford, and returns the following morning. Residenees—Lydney I‘ark, seat of Charles Bathurst. Esq. ;-- Highbury House, T. Allaway. Esq—Gianna, Hon. W. M N oeL—Highfield House, C. Greenham, Esq. Woorasronn, (22 m.) is next passed, and the line leaves the banks of the Severn at some distance to the left. The Old Passage and Beachley can be discerned on its rocky shore. After passingthrough a deep cutting in the solid rock, and across the river lVye, you enter HISTORICAL REMARKS ON MONMOUTHSHIBE. Zitnnmnuttttie. “Wnnn Britain was invaded by the Romans, the coun- ties of Monmouth and Hereford were inhabited by the Se'lures, a race of great valour and military skill, and although the Romans by scientific warfare generally proved victorious, the Britons were uiulaunted by dc- feats and would still engage their enemies. They were led by Caractacus, a prince, whose courage they greatly extolled, but who was at length taken prisoner and sent to Rome, where his noble bearing and magnanimous conduct whilst in chains, won the esteem of Lthe Empe- ror of Rome, and he and his family were released from bondage. Although the Britons had lost their leader, they still effectually opposed and harassed the Roman generals sent to conquer then . At length Julius Frontinus overcame all obstacles and subdued them. The conquerors, however, found great difficulty in retaining the country, and were obliged to form and garrison a lOIi‘T line of military posts. The principal of which military stations were in Monmouthshire, viz.; Vesta Sllzmm, now Caerwent; Isea Sllarum, then the metropolis of the Sllares, new Caerleon ;_ Burrlum, now Ush; lilest/zmz, new Monmouth; and Gel/(lamina, now Abergavcnny. Julius Frontinus was succeeded by Agricola, who, by placing eiiicers of pcaceable and generous dispositions orer the Britons, worked a great iml'irovement in their MONMOUTHSHIRE. 13 manners and gained their confidence. He introduced liberal arts and sciences among them, and taught them to cultivate the soil: but after a time, imperial Rome was compelled to recall her legions to defend her domi- niens at home, and the Roman soldiers bade adieu to this island. On their departure, the Picts, Scots, Saxons and Danes invaded the country, and this part of the kingdom became the scene of many heroic engagements. Prior to the year 418 the Britons had several Kings, and about this time, Vortigern had risen to the throne. His reign was one of perfidy and villainy. The Saxons were invited over to repel the Diets, and in their turn committed ravages and massacres, slaughtering up- wards of 800 persons of rank, at a meeting convened under social and harmonious pretences on Salisbury plain. Vortigern was suspected of being privy to this treachery and was never more in favor with the Britons. Ambrosius, who succeeded Vortigern, gained some advantages over the Saxons, and after recovering a part of the country, died by poison. Uther Pendragon then ascended the throne, and after seventeen years of suc- cessful enterprise, was also poisoned. His son, the fa- mous Arthur, whose birthplace is said to be Cardiff, now became the British monarch. On the uniting of the Saxon heptarchy in the person of Egbert, in 819, the Britons retired into the moun- tains of \Vales, maintaining an inveterate hatred to the Saxons, and were governed by princes of their own. Harold, the last of the Saxon kings, built a palace at Portscuet-t, near Chepstow, at which he entertained Edward the Confesser, in 1005. The palace was de— stroyed by a \Velsh Lillt‘f named Caradog ap Grutfyth. 1st nonnoornsnrnn. The New Passage or Charston Rock, about smile and a half distant from Portscuett, is afi‘irmed to be the precise spot where the Romans, headed by Julius Fron- tinus, in the reign of Vespasian, first landed in Men- mouthshire, for the purpose of reducing the S/iZu/rcs to subj ection. The natives of the Principality maintain, that they never were conquered, although they admit that the Romans at different time obtained the ascendancy, and that neither Saxons, Danes, nor Normans could subdue them, but that in the reign of Henry II, in fulfilment of an old prophecy of Merlin, they capitulated, in order to enjoy certain rights and privileges. The shrewd policy of Edward I. reconciled the TWelsh to British rule. His queen being near her accoucizcment, he sent her to Caernarvon castle, where she was safely delivered of a prince, who was made the first Prince of Wales, and afterwards came to the throne, and went by the name of Edward Caernarvon. From that time the natives acknowledged the English King as their Lord. wee/am GHEPSTOW. To those who travel for the recovery of health or the enjoyment of the senses, this neighbourhood is equally attractive. The town itself is happily situated on the slope of a hill so that a brisk shower of rain completely cleanses the street, and in a few minutes after the rain has ceased, the invalid may walk abroad without dan- ger of getting damp feet. It is built on a compact bed of limestone, but the soil around is so diversified, that CHEPSTOVV—HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS. 15 the geologist and the botanist may find ample food for their studies. The town is environed by scenery of much beauty and grandeur, indeed, few places possess so much of the picturesque. The assemblage of rocks, woods, ruins, pastures and streams, are so prettily disposed and so harmoniously united, that the greatest connoisseur in landscapes must speak of the scenery in this neigh- bourhood in the highest praise. The artist’s pencil and palette need never be idle, or the antiqarian’s researches cease for lack of monastic and eastellated ruins to ex- plore. IIISTORICAL AssoemrIoNs—It does not appear that Chepstow flourished during the Roman sway, but that it rose into importance on the decline of the ancient city of Caerwem‘, which is about four miles distant, it being better suited for the purposes of commerce. The name of Clzleapanstow was bestowed upon it by the Saxons, signifying a “place of traffic,” and it was probably oc_ eupied by Harold, when he took possession of this part of Monmouthshire, and built a palace at Portscuitt, about three miles distant. The Normans, however ap— pear to have fortified the town, and surrounded it with walls strengthened at intervals with round towers or bastions, which extended from the banks of the river near the railway bridge round the upper part of the town to the castle, portions of the walls yet remain, and the railway train, a few yards after leaving the station, passes close to the remains of the wall. The town was also known by the name of Car Gwcat by the ancient Britons, and Sirz'gaz'l by the Romans. The Castle is a prominent object in passing along the railway bridge, 16 (irnnrsrow, and the scenery around it is strikingly picturesque. It is built on. the edge ofa lofty perpendicular rock. Whose base is Washed by the “rye. Its position is strong and commanding from the river, and the great height and strength of its Wall and outworlrs on the land side, present the remains of all that ancient art could devise to render it impregnable. The principal entrance bears indications of strong defence ; the massive door covered with iron bolts and clasps, is a genuine relic of the feu- dal stronghold, it is guarded on each side by a circular tower with oellit holes, and in the arch which extends from one tower to the other, is the groove from which the portcullis dropped, and two circular holes used for pouring melted lead or boiling water on the heads of the beseigers. The interior divided into four courts; Within the first are the domestic offices, a cha- pel or oratory, a subterraneous room excavated in the rock and connected With the river, and sercral other vaults and dungeons. The Walls are covered with a luxuriant mantle of ivy, through which, the sculptured masonry occasionally amicars. The Keep Tower on the left of the entrance, is an object the visitor will regard with interest, as being the place Where the inflexible regieide, Henry Martin, was incarcerated for 20 years: he died in the 78th year of his age, and Was buried in Chepstow church. Here also the good Jeremy Taylor suffered temporary imprisonment in 1656, on a charge of being privy to an insurrection of the ltoyalists. This baronial fortress was built by \Villiam Fitz Osborne, Earl of Hereford, soon after the Conquest; he Was re~ latcd to the Conqueror and held high office, being Jus- hp ennrsrow. 1 1 tieiary of the North of England, and a joint Marshal with Roger de Montgomery. It passed to the Earls of Pembroke, and afterwards fell into the hands of the great family of Clare. In the reign of Henry I. it was in the possession of Gilbert, surnamed Strongbow, who, at the coronation of Henry 11, held the office of Marshal of England, Earl of Pembroke, and Earl of Striguil, it passed to his son Richard, and descended to the Plan- tagenets, the Hcrbcrts, and the Somersets, and is now the property of the Duke of Beaufort. During the sanguinary struggles of Charles I. and his parliament, it successively became the property of mo- narchial loyalty and zealous republicanisin; it echoed with the thunder of Cromwell’s artillery,and drank the blood of Sir Nicholas Kemeys with that of forty of his brave companions, on the 25th of May, 16-18, as they advanced to deliver up their swords, on the supplies of food becoming exhausted. “ Many a Vanished year and age, And tempest’s breath, and battle’s rage, Have swept o’er thy Castle; yet she stands A fortress form’d to Freedom’s hands: The whirlwind’s wrath—the earthquake’s shock, Have left untoueh’d her hoary rock.” Towards the close of the 18th century, Chepstow was the principal port for South \Vales, and ship building was extensively carried on. In 1797, the coasting trade was considerably superior to that of Newport, but since that period, the trade has dwindled to a mere shadow of its former extent. THE IRON BRIDGE which crosses the 'Wye near the castle is a beautiul and elegant structure. It consists 0 18 cnnrsrow EnIneEs AND cnuncn. of five arches, and its length is about 820 feet; 800 tons of iron were used in its construction, and the eXpence attending its erection amounted to nearly £20,000, which was defrayed by the counties of Gloucester and Monmouth. THE RAILWAY BRIDGE is also formed of iron, from a design of Brunel’s at a cost of about £70,000. It is considered to be an ingenious and great mechanical un- dertaking, and has been visited by many scientific men from various parts of the kingdom and from foreign countries. The stupendous proportions of the bridge may be imagined from the following dimensions.--Tota1 length 628 feet; main span 300 feet, which is suspended from a huge cylinder; the three side spans 100‘feet each, supported on tubes 9ft. in diameter. The height of the roadway above low Water is 94 feet, and above high water 51 feet. The total weight of iron used was 2,340 tons 14 cwt. THE PARISH Cnuncrr is dedicated to St. Mary. At the west-front entrance is a magnificent portal in a good state of preservation. It has a semi—circular arch, rc- posing on receding columns, and richly decorated with divisions of diagonal and diamond mouldings, peculiar to the Saxon and early Norman styles. The remains of Henry Martin, with an acrostic to his memory, and the Earl and Countess of Worcester, lie intered in the church. THE CEMETERY is neatly laid out with shrubs at half a mile distant from the town, in the hamlet of Hard- Wick. THE PUBLIC Burrnrnes are the Assembly Rooms, over the Market House, and connected with the Beaufort ennrsrew—PUBLIc surnames. 19 Arms; the Union Workhoase, at the upper end of the town; the Bank Buildings, where the County Courts Petty Sessions, and Public meetings are held; the National School ; Powz's’ Almslzoase ; and the Dissenting Places of Worship for Baptists, Independents, Roman Catholics, Wesleyans, and Irvingites. T HE Pnrvarn RESIDENCES, in the neighbourhood are very pleasantly and romantically situated, among the number may be mentioned, Mount House and Pz'ercefielal House, on the road to St. Arvans; Hczartlwtok Home, Hawlem'clo Lodge, Larlefielcl and Ike lVg/elamls on the road to Pwlmeyric; Tutshe'll House, Tutslw'll Lodge, East Clef, .Pemnoyle, and Wye Home, on the road to Coleford; Seclba/ry Park, near Beachley, Itton Court and St. Pierre. The town is well lighted with gas, and Water Works were established in 1887. The accommodation for visitors is very good, com- fortable private lodgings may be obtained at reasonable rates, and there are several excellent inns. Inns—Beaufort Arms, family and commercial; George, fa- mily and commercial; Bell ; Horn ; Conveyances—The Wye Steam Packet plies daily between Bristol and Chepstow—I’leasure boats for the Wye tour may be obtained by applying at the Lord N elson—-—Vehi- cles at the Beaufort Arms, George, and other Inns—~— Coach to Monmouth on arrival of the Packet. Routes. To proceed into South Wales by the most direct route, continue along the rail to Newport, but as that course will take the visitor along an uninteresting boundary of 20 nourris T0 Nnwronr. the county, over the extensive moors of Caldicot level, with but few objects to attract attention; it is recom~ mended, provided an extra day or two be at the disposal of the tourist, to proceed from Ohepstow to Monmouth, by a hired conveyance, if the 16 miles between the two towns is to be traversed in one day, and travel from thence on the Monmouth, Usk, and Pontypool Railway through the centre of the county to Newport. If the distance between Chepstow and Monmouth be accom- plished on foot, the pedestrian will find decent accom- modation for the night at the Beaufort Arms, Tintern, or at the Sleep Inn, Llandogo. A coach runs between the two towns during the summer months, which may be taken advantage of to reach Monmouth after walking a part of the distance. By this route will be taken in the far-famed 'Windclitf, the monastic ruins of Tintern Abbey, the county town of Monmouth with its delight- ful scenery, the magnificent ruins of Raglan Castle, the town and castle of Usk, &o. The objects on both routes will be given for the tourist to select which he pleases. Journey from Chepstow to Newport by Rail. On leaving the Station, the line follows the course of the river for the first half mile, passing close to a por- tion of the fortified walls of the town, and through the Hardwick Cliff. The large masses of rock which rear their majestic heads and overhang the Wye, on the left, appear like the gigantic parapets of a huge fortress. On emerging from the passage in the rock, you arrive on the banks of the Severn, the \Vye having here termi- nated its course and emptied itself into that noble river. MATHERNE CHURCH AND OLD PALACE. At the point where the two rivers unite before falling into the Bristol channel, an isolated rock is seen at a short distance from the land near Bcachley, surmounted by the ruins of (lip Q9111 @fiapcl, dedicated to St. Tecla, who is said to have suffered martyrdom An 47. At two miles distance from Chcpstow, on the right, stands {Hatteras ‘631mb and out leaders- The church contains an epitaph on Thoodorick, King of Glamorgan, who died on his way home, from wounds he received at the battle of Tintern, in fighting against the Saxons, in the year 600. It is placed in the North ‘wall of tho Chancel on a large square stone, painted black, and decorated with military emblems. He was accounted a martyr because he was slain in battle against the Pagan Saxons in defence of the Christian leligion, and Matherne is said to have derived its name from Merthyr Tewdrig (the martyrdom of Theodoric.) Several Bishops were also buried in the church, among the inscriptions on the tomb-stones in the Churchyard, are the following very ludicrous lines, said to have been composed by an aged spinster of the parish, who was particularly interested in the welfare of the old man, whose memory she handed down by invoking the muses. The epitaph runs thus 2-— “ John Lee is dead, that good old man, “To ne’er shall see him more, He used to wear an old drab coat, All buttoned down before.” watberneistflsrr and istciusruut Were formerly ecclesiastical mansions, the residences of the Bishops of Llandatf, they are now in a very ruinous state, and appropriated at present to farming purposes. b9 b0 ST. PIERRE~NEVV PASSAGE. The mansion of iaint iflierre is situated within a quarter of a mile of Mathernc. The family of Lewis owns the estate, descended from the same great ancestor as the Tredegar Family, “ Cadifor the Great.” The mansion is very antique in appearance, and the situation composed and tranquil. Close to the house is the parish Church, which is principally used by the family, it has a painted window, and within the porch are two tomb- stones of an early date, the one to the memory of Vrian de St. Pierre, who died 1298 (temp. Edward I.) and the other is an hierogliphical stone with ten bezants or plates, falcons, dragons, 8:0. PonrsKEwEr STATION (4 miles from Chepstow) is next reached. Nearly a mile to the left lies the NEW PASSAGE INN or the BLACK Been. In 1713, Charles I. was pursued by his enemies to this place. He embarked in a boat at Qtbarstou Ennis, or BLACK Boon as it is usually termed, and was ferried to the opposite shore. About 60 of his pursuers, with drawn swords were close upon his track, and compelled other boatmen to ferry them in pursuit ; these mariners, who were loyal to their king, landed Cromwell’s soldiers on a reef of rocks, near the opposite shore, called the “English Stones” and persuaded them to ford to land ; whilst attempting vto do so, the tide flowed in rapidly, and they were all drowned. Cnansron' Boon is afiirmed to be the precise spot where the Romans, headed by Julius Frontinus, in the reign of Vespasian, first landed in Monmouthshire, for the purpose of reducing the Sal/Wes to subjection. Several Roman coins have been found on the rock. Across the ferry a floating railway is projected, by PORTSKE‘VIT—CALDICOT CASTLE. 3 which means Bristol will be connected by the most direct route with South ‘Vales, and thereby obviate the necessity of going round through Gloucester. The distance of Bristol from this spot will not be more than 14 miles. This ferry was formerly much used in keep- ing up a communication with Bristol and the South West Counties, but has been little used for that purpose during the last twenty years. The breadth across at high water is 3% miles. On the rocky coast within a mile of the New Passage Inn, is an ancient encampment called ganhmua or tfiunt’bhrnnk, It consists of three ramparts and two ditches forming a semi-circle. It was evidently once circular. On the cast are the remains of a Chapel once attached to a Norman Mansion, probably swept away by the encroachment of the sea. At {J 0115 twill“ may be traced the remains of another Roman encampment. Harold built a palace here, at which he entertainment Edward the Confessor. It was destroyed by Caradog ap Griflith a \Velsh Chieftain. The Village now nearly a mile from the shore, was once Washed by the sea. Qtglljignt @agflt stands in a large tract of pasture ground on the right of the line, within one mile of Portskewit, the walls are from five to nine feet thick, and some historians have supposed this castle to have been built by Harold, who held his court here. The ancestors of the Bohun family were very early possessors of this castle, it afterwards came into the possession of the Earl of Stafi'ord by marriage, and was retained by Henry VI. It was granted by Edward IV. to Lord £24 CAERW'ENT—MAGOR STATION. Herbert of Raglan, afterwards Earl of Pembroke. It reverted to Henry VI. and was again taken by Edward IV. in the wars of the white and red roses. It was returned to the Duke of Buckingham descendant of the Earl of Stafford) by Richard the III, but when the Duke and his son were executed for treason, it became forfeited to Henry VII, it was afterwards held by the Earls of Worcester during the reigns of Elizabeth, James I. and Charles I.; and is now the property of the Saint Pierre family. The village of CALnIcor is within a few yards of the castle, and contains about 660 inhabitants. The Church is a fine old building with square tower. @HBI‘XUBIU, is about a mile and a half distant from Caldicot, and miles to the right of the line. Al~ though it now has nothing inviting in its appearance, yet it deserves the attention of the antiquarian. It was once an important Roman city, and under the auspices of Agricola, was renowned for its temples, theatres, baths, and porticoes. Fortifications may still be traced, and fragments of stately piles, and innumerable coins and medals have been found, to prove the consequence this place had borne among the Roman stations. On the 16th of August 1855, the members of the Caerleon Antiquarian Association held their annual meeting here, in an orchard belonging to Mr. George Dowle, where many interesting relics have been found. On this occasion a beautiful tessalated pavement was discovered in good preservation, forming the centre of a room, other apartments of the house, and hot and cold baths, were also found whilst digging. ROGGIETT—LANWERNE. 25 At 2% miles distance from Portscuitt, the rail passes Iknggiet @burd), and 2% miles further Macon STA- TION is reached. The Church stands nearto the station and is Very ancient in appearance. A neat school has been recently erected close to it. The parish contains about 430 inhabitants. LLANWEBNE STATION is four miles from Magor. (7n an eminence, prettily wooded, stands Quanhlm‘n £81158, the seat of Sir Charles Salusbury. It was erected in 1760, by Charles Vanne, Esq, father-in-law to the late Sir Robert Salusbury, Bart. Sir Robert was the inti— mate friend and fellow collegian of Pitt, and he repre- sented the county of Monmouth in one parliament, and sat in the house many years as member for Brecon. Sir Robert died at Canterbury, Nov. 18, 1817. Four miles further, and Newport, the most important town in Monmouthshire, is reached. Before proceeding further, the indulgence of the reader must be claimed, whilst the route to Newport rz'a/ Monmouth, as before alluded to, is given, for the information to those who have acted upon the suggestion thrown out, of passing through the centre of this beau- tiful county to reach Newport. Route from Chepstow to Newport, by way of Monmouth and Usk. Since railroads have: so intersected the county, tourists, unless they are good pedestrians have been put to some D, 26 JouENEY FROM cnEPsrow re MONMOUTH. inconvenience in reaching the County town from Chepstow. There is no Line of the iron road to connect the two towns, and the commercial portion of the community finding it cheaper, if not more expeditous to take the railway which runs round through Newport t0 Monmouth, a distance of about 47 miles, than to post the 16 miles between Chepstow and Monmouth, or wait for a coach once a day, or three times a week, have generally adopted the rail. But a stranger will be amply repaid for hiring a conveyance, or making a two days journey of the 16 miles on foot. On leaving Chepstow, pass under the T own Gate at the top of High Street, and turn along the street to the right, which will lead to Crossway Green Turnpike Gate. About two hundred yards after passing the gate, a road to the left leads to Usk 14 miles distant, keep down the hill and you reach I’iercefield Lodge. The walks ot‘l’iereefield were in former years open to the public, and attracted considerable numbers to the beat- tiful grounds and woods, from which delightful views are obtained. The property of late years, however, has been much neglected, and the walks are closed. It is now in the occupation of John Russell, Esq. Keep the boundary wall of the park on your right hand, and after a walk of a mile you arrive at the pretty village of St. Arvans, where there is a good Inn. Turn along the road to the right, and opposite the Fish pond, pass through a gateway on the left of the road. A carriage way will lead you to the top of the far famed winfltll'ff. On the summit of the rock, are some seats, on which the traveller will find it agreeable to gavagfidkzlis'r‘zx. ' vr sws rnoM WIND CLIFF. 27 rest after his walk, and contemplate a most magnificent and extended prospect, beyond the power of language to describe, or the pencil of the artist to portray. It is a scene of enchantment ; luxuriant woods,-—-romantic rocks,-—fertile valleys, and a winding stream blending in harmony in the foreground, and melting into each other in the distance. “Who would not wander here P “The would not here Grow old in song? the poet, soul refresh’d, \Vith glowing cheek, and eye uplift to heaven, Might look through nature here to nature’s God. To recount the whole of the pleasing objects taken in within range of the eye, would occupy more time and space then can be allotted, it will be sutficient to state, that from the summit of the rock, which is nearly 900 feet above the river, parts of the counties of Monmouth, Gloucester, Devon, Somerset, \Vilts, Glamorgan, Brecon, Hereford and Worcester may be seen. Among the more prominent objects forming the panorama may be mentioned the Wye—taking its circuitous course for seve- ral miles between rocky and woody banks, and embracing the peninsula of Laneaut with its little church, its farm, its green pastures and yellow corn fields ;-—-the frowning Bannagor crags in front ;-—-the beautifully wooded walks of l’iercefield, with the rocks called the Twelve apostles, jutting out at intervals on the right ; —— and beyond the noble ruins of the Castle of Chepstow,-—-the light and airy iron bridges, —- the Tutshill rocks, and the queenly Severn bounding the horizon, like a brightened coronet to grace the magic scene ; with the historic castle of Berkeley on its banks ;--further to the right stands the 28 WrNncLirr. steeple of Thornbury Church, the isolated rocks, known by the name of “ Flat” and “ Steep Holmes ” rising out of the Waters of the Bristol Chamiel,--the headland of Penarth, near Cardiff ;-—the hills of Somerset, and the conspicous tower of Dundry, near Bristol. Before quitting this “fir topped cliff” it may be mentioned, for those Who are interested in such matters, that the lovers of science Will find Within a short distance amusements in several pursuits. The Geologist will see that the cliff is formed of hard White limestone on a bed of blue, that the soil around is formed of diluvium conglomerate and sandstone, and that there are some crinoids and other fossils imbedded in the seams of the limestones. The Ornithologist may chance to alight upon the rare and beautifully crested Bohemian waxwing, (Bombycz'lla gawula}, and may see hovering over the rocks and Woods, the hawk, the harrier and the kite; Whilst the Wary and suspicious raven, that “ evil boding crow,” perches moodily upon the branches issuing from the cre- vices of a rugged rock, and the blinking owl sits moping in its retired haunt secure from the noon-tide sun; chat- tering pies and jays their discord ring; blackbirds trill from the ivy mantled banks and sepulchral yew, and thrushes Whistle from the thorny brake ; the cooing note of the ring dove is heard from the lofty trees, whilst in the bushes around, linnets and finches pour out their soft and melodious notes; and furtl'icr off, as the shades of evening approach, the nightingale puts forth its plaintive tale. The Entomologist will be afforded amusement in - 1 wINneLrrr. 29 watching the unsteady flight of some of the gayest but— terflies of our land, among the number are the Pent/m Cardanzz'nes, Vanessa urtz'ow, Vanessa [0, Cynthia car- ried, and Gomyvtcryx R/mmnz', besides many commoner kinds. Some beautiful moths flit about, and among them the three spotted burnet, the buff tiger, the lac- quey, the goat, the elephant, the priyet, the clouded buff, the spotted Velvet, &c. The Botanist may discover many rather rare plants, among which may be enumerated the Learn/‘fa cymba- Zerz'a, Valerz'ane more, Galzizmz zfernnz, Opkrg/s apt/fem, Habenarz'a bzfolz'a, Pea, W'gz'da, Helz'anfizemum eulgare, Genflana Anmrella, 17m syleatz'ca, AHflZyZZL'S enZncrarz'a, Omit/2019258 perpnsz'lins, Viburnn-rn Opalns, Poterz'wn sangm'sorba, Geranz'mn Zuc/z'dmn, Gem- nz'zun sanyu/nemn, 0/1/07 a pmfeiz'az‘a, Con-eallam'e nae/alts, and GaZant/zas nz'zfalz's. The tourist will now begin to descend the cliff by the serpentine path, which is rendered easy by stone steps and rustic seats at intervals, the latter are mostly placed in convenient spots for getting good views of the sur- In the way lies a chasm in the rock, Onebryc/u's sat‘z'm, Gen'znz'mn jelzzz'zun, rounding scenery. called the Giant’s Care, through which is a passage. At the bottom of the cliff is the Moss Cottage, a fanciful little erection,——a cool and pleasant retreat. It is a rustic building thatched with straw and lined with moss. Here parties can be accommodated with tea and refreshments at moderate charges. The turnpike road is new regained and you proceed on your way to Tintern, with a rocky wood on the left, in which the “lady ash ” the “ fragrant birk ” and 30 TINTERN ABBEY. the “ sombre yew” commingle their varied foliage, and from which the wild clematis hangs its tangled tresses. Beneath you on the right, the \Vye flows on its sinuous course. After a two miles walk, on turning a point of the road, the beautiful monastic edifice of @intm‘n suddenly meets the eye. Its pointed arches of fairy lightness, covered with ivy, rising in the centre of a sylvan valley, with the classic “lye wending its majestic course by its side, is a sight which strikes the beholder with amazement. It is seen with better effect from this spot than from any other, for as you approach nearer, a cluster of dilapidated cottages hides it partially from view. A person is in charge of this beautiful ruin, and strangers are admitted to view the interior. On entering the sacred edifice, a sudden awe thrills through the mind of the beholder, at the solemn stillness which pervades the place. “Relic of by-gone days and noble arts, Dcspoil’d yet perfect, within thy circle spreads A holiness appealing to all hearts.” M onkish tombstones and mutilated figures are deposited about the walls, and the floor is covered with a fine green sward. Time has worn the sharp edges of the carved and sculptured stones of the ornamental Gothic window frames and arches. N ature has claimed the ruin as her own, and mosses, lichens, pennyworts, antirrhinums, wallfiowers and spleenworts have settled themselves in the oints of the elaboratly chisellcd stones. TINT ERN ABBEY. 31 “ Lone monument of ages! sacred pile ! Sweetly the eye reposes o’er thy fane, \Vhich in the moonlight wears the placid smile Appealing to our pity, not in vain. Shall Fancy swell the deep-tonal solemn strain, ‘Vhich ’erst the loud Hosannah’s wak’d in fire, Shall crowded visions of the past, again F lit o’er thy fretted vaults, and Wake th’ harmonious choir. Thy solitude looks lovely in the vale, The mountain forest flutters o’er thy wall—- The \Vye winds round thee, and the snow white sail, Comes glittering downwards on the river’s tall, IVith life and light advancing—while the pall Of mould’ring time, hangs 0’ er thee chill and wild, Unwak’d by echoes, save by owlets eall, Pealing thine anthem drear, in death still undefil’d The principal part of the ruin is the church, which is a beautiful specimen of pure Gothic architecture. The Abbey is said to have been founded for Cistercian monks in 1181, by YValter E itz- Richard de Clare, and dedicated to St. Mary. “falter dying without issue was succeeded by his brother Gilbert de Clare, ale/es Strongbow, first Earl of Pembroke who died in 11418. Several of the De Clares and ‘William Herbert, Earl of Pembroke, are said to have been buried here. In this Abbey, Edward II. took refuge for a time from the pursuit of his queen, Isabella. Henry VIII. granted the Abbey and estates to Henry, Earl of ‘Yorcester, from whom they descended to His Grace the Duke of Beaufort the present pro- prietor. In the year 600 a battle was fought at Tintern, between the Britons and Saxons, when Theodoric the British leader was slain, and a tablet is erected to his.v memory in Matherne Church. ’_._.~ ~__.,-_ _ -- A ., ~,, ,vwmaumw_w_.~tm-..~-. , i, 82 CHAPELHILL,———LLANDOGO. Iron and wire works are carried on here. The works are of very early date, and were probably erected in the reign of Elizabeth, as the memoirs of l\Ionmouthshire, printed in the sixteenth century makes mention ot‘them and say, “ The ingenious invention of making wire by water mills, was brought hereby Germans many yearS since.” In 1851, Tin tern contained 870 inhabitants. The Church is small stone building. Inns—Beaufort Arms, Rose and Crown, and Carpenters’ Arms. CHAPEL HILL immediately adjoins Tintern Parva, and contains 545 inhabitants. It has a church of which the Duke of Beaufort is patron. About a mile further, on the opposite side of the river lies Bree/swear. Ship building is carried on here to a small extent. LLANDOGO, a pretty village on the banks of the \Vye, surrounded by fine wooded scenery, is about two miles further on the road to Monmouth. The village is backed by a steep wooded hill, called “ Cleddon Shoots” from which a delightful View of the village and river, with St. Briavels Castle on an eminence on the opposite shore, is obtained, in rainy seasons, when the springs are overflowing, the Cascade which falls from this eminence has a pleasing and romantic appearance. The tide of the “rye ebbs and flows up to thisfvillage. In 1851, it contained 164 houses and 571 inhabitants. It has a small neat church. Good accommodation may be ob— tained a the “ Sloop Inn.” About a mile and a half to the left, lies the parish of Trailer/t, a neat village, having a stone built church with PISLTONE—BIG SWEIR BRIDGE—TVHITEBROOK. 3 3 a spire. The old road to Monmouth passes through this parish, but since the new one on the banks of the Wye has been opened, the old road is but little traversed. In the woody vale of Catbrook in this parish, is a fine chalybeate spring, called the “ Virtuous Well” which formerly was much frequented by invalids, for the purpose of drinking the waters; but in the present day more fashionable places are resorted to. Pursuing the direct road to Monmouth, at a distance of about a mile and a half, the ruins of the ancient mansion of P-z'lston, lies on the left, backed by the Pang/can hills, on which much merry-making comes off on Whit-Monday. The Wye is here crossed by Bigsweir Bridge, a single arch of 160 feet span, to the Glouceter- shire side of the river. After passing Florence cottage to the right, Whitebrook paper mills are seen on the opposite bank of the river. When the manufacture of iron wire was introduced into this kingdom, the artists who came from Germany first settled at this place, and Tintern Abbey; on the decline of the wire works the paper mills were erected, and at one time did a good trade. iliflflll‘flflfi is next reached, at which place a road to the right leads to Newland and Coleford. The Village of Redbrook is divided into two parts, called Upper and Lower Redbrook. There are some iron and tin works here, which are new partially stopped, and it is stated that in former days it was celebrated for “ a famous copper works, managed by Swedes and other foreigners.” A brook in the village divides the counties of Monmouth and Gloucester. 34 nomuourn. As Monmouth is approached, Dog House belonging to the Duke of Beaufort is seen on the opposite side of the river. In this mansion are deposited the cradle in which Henry V. passed his infant slumbers, andflthe sword and armour he fought with at the battle of Agincourt. Before crossing Wyebm'dge, a road will be observed on the right hand, which leads to Mayhill, the Kymin, the Buckstone, Staunton, N ewland and Coleford. Remarks on these places will be hereafter made. Cross the bridge and enter MONMOUTH. Distant from Miles Gloucester . . . . . . . . . . .. 19 London . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Hereford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Chepstow . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Raglan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Abergavenny . . . . . . . . . . 16 Usk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 It is a corporate borough, and in conjunction with Newport and Usk sends one member to Parliament; the present representative is Crawshay Bailey, Esq. of N antyglo. The members for the County are Octavius Morgan, Esq, brother to Lord Tredegar; and Colonel Somerset, cousin to the Duke of Beaufort. Three rivers enter this town, the Wye, the Monnew, and the Trothy, the name of the town is derived from the second mentioned stream. It is supposed to have been the Bleszf'z'wn of Antoninus. T726 Castle, of which very little remains, was supposed to have been built by John of Monmouth. It was annexed to the Earldom of Lancaster, and became a favorite residence of John of Gaunt, to whom it de- scended by his marriage with Blanche, daughter of MoNMourH. 35 Henry of Monmouth. The castle, ‘however, is most renowned for having been the birth place of Henry V. whose 'name and glory are familiar to every reader of national history or the drama. His dissipated habits when Prince of \Vales, and his great military achieve- ments at the siege of Harfieur, and at the battle on the plains of Agincourt, have been so inimitably portrayed by Shakspeare, that his name is “as familiar in our mouths, as household words.” Monaow Bridge surmounted by a Saxon gateway, was erected by Edward I. in 1272. Near St. \[ary’s Church are the remains of a Benedic- tine Priory founded by Wihenoc de Monmouth, in the reign of Henry I. A small chamber of the Ancient Monastery is pointed out, as the study of the lying chronicler, Geoffrey of Monmouth. SAINT MmiY’s Cnuncn is a neat and handsome struc- ture with a lofty spire, it has eight musical bells, and contains many monumental tablets. SaTllcmas’ Church an ancient structure, was repaired a few years since by public subscription. The Free Grammar School was founded in the reign of James I. by William Jones, Esq. , a native of Newland and haberdasher of London, who left£9000 for the endowment of a School and Almshoases. There are several dissenting chapels in the town, and the other public buildings are the National School——the Infant School-the Iowa Hall in Agincourt Square, in which the County Assizes are held—the Union Work— koase inWeirhead street—the Masonic Hall, north parade --the Market Home in Priory street—and the County Gaol on the outskirts of the town. 36 MONMOUTH. At the time of the Norman conquest this town was bestowed upon ‘Villiam Fitz Baderon, one of the follow- ers of the Conqueror, who assumed the title of \Villiam de Monmouth. John of Gaunt, Dukelof Lancaster resided for some time in the castle. Charles I. frequently visited this town, and took up his quarters at the King’s Head Hotel, and ov er the fire place of one of the rooms, is a figure of the head of this unfortunate monarch, formed of plaster of Paris in good preservation. The borough first exercised the elective franchise in the 27th year of Henry VIII., it was a place of much importance in the Saxon reigns, who to secure their conquests, fortified the town with walls of great thickness. The town gave the title of Duke, to James, natural son of Charles II. It is delightfully situated in a fertile valley, environed by hills richly covered with woods, and dotted with numerous handsome residences, and the town itself contains some well built modern houses, is well supplied with water, and lighted with gas. The neighbourhood abounds with lovely walks and views. The road towards Coleford, and the one in the direction of Ross, by the side of the classic lVye, perhaps command the choicest views. To view the magnificent scenery connected with the former road, cross Wyebridge, and ascend the circuitous path by Mag/hi”, and after an uphill walk of about a mile and a half, the Jffz/mz'n is reached. On the summit is a naval temple, to the memory of Lord Nelson and other heroes, and a circular pavilion for the accommo- dation of visitors. The view from this spot extends to a MONMOUTE. 37 circumference of nearly 300 miles, and includes parts of nine counties. To the south east, about a mile distant, is seen a famous Druidical rocking stone, known by the name of Bnclcstone. It is a mass of silicious-grit on the edge of a rock. It is 18 “feet high, circumference at the upper part 54 feet, and at the point of contact with the ground only 3 feet. From the Ross road is seen “ the Lcys ” the seat of the late \V. Booker Blakemore, Esq, and on the summit of a heathy and rocky mountain on the estate, a light looking iron observatory is erected. There are several antique mansions in the neighbour- hood of Monmouth, which deserve to be alluded to. A mile from the town is Wonastow House which formerly belonged to the Herberts, and is supposed to have been built in the reign of Henry VI., it is situated on an eminence and commands good views. Troy House before spoken of is also within a mile of the town. Treowen, once a splendid mansion, is about two miles distant, to the north of the road to Raglan, and also belonged to the Herberts. Dingestow Court, about 5 miles from Monmouth on the road to Raglan, is a beautiful residence, and is seen to advantage from the line. Race Meetings are held here in September, and are well attended. Inns—~Beaufort Arms, family and commercial; King‘ s Head, family and commercial; Swan; Angel. Conyeyances—Coaehes from Beaufort Arms and King’ s Head, for Ross; Packet Coach from Angel, to Chepstow. _ 38 JOURNEY BY ON THE LEFT FROM MONMOUTH. Troy House, seat of the Duke of Beaufort. Mitelu‘ltroy (:hur. and \dllage. Tump farm Treworgan house. Gwernesney ch. Llangeview ch. Usk I’rison. Usk Castle. Plasnewydd house Porthycarne house Graig-yn-alt wood Cefn Ila house. Hill farm, Glascoed Pontrhydyrun iron works. Pontnewydd works Crossyceih lg vil. Lanvreehva grange residence of C. Prothero, Esq. River Usk. Maindee. Caerleon 8 miles l RAIL FROM MONMOUTII T0 NE'WPORT. MILES. \I 10 11 i MONMOUTH. Tunnel. Drivcrsrow Station. 3 m. RA c LAN Footpath Station RAGLAN Roan Station. 8 111. LLANDENNY Station. 9 m. Tunnel. USK. Station. 12 m. River Usk. ' Lr'rrLE MILL Junction with N. A. H. Railw. PONTYPOOL Rn. Branch for Pentypeol and Crumlin. I’oNTNnwYnn S. CWMBRAN S. NE\VPORT. MILES . 167], /\ lb ON THE RIGHT FROM MONMOUTH. Gibralter House A. Rolls, Esq. ‘Vonastow. Dingestow Court, residence of S. R. Bosanquet, Esq. Raglan Castle Raglan village. Ilandenny village. Cefntilla mansion, seat of Ld.Raglan. Lanolway farm. Coedybrain farm. New barn farm. Beech Hill. Lancayo house. Rhadyr House M aesderwen house Pontypool Town 1 mile distant. Pontypool Park, residence of C. H. Leigh, Esq, Lord Lieutenant. Pontymoile iron W'orks. Cwmbran works Nail manufactory RAGLAN CASTLE. 89 RAGLAN. Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. Monmouth . . . . . . . . . . 8 i Usk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Abergavenny . . . . . . . . 9 Tintern Abbey . i . . . . 10 Chepstow . . . . . . . . . . 12 Newport . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Pontypool . . . . . . . . . . 12 4 Caerleen . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 On alighting at Raglan footpath station, awalk across a few fields will bring you to the castle and village. The village is large and neat, and contains some very good shops and capital inns. The Church is built in the ' Norman Style, with a square embattled tower. It con- tains monuments to the memory of \Villiam, 8rd Earl of Worcester, KG. who died, 1588; his son Edward, 4th Earl, KG. in 1628, and Edward, 6th Earl and second Marquis of Worcester, in 1667, who had been created Earl of Glamorgan during the life time of his father; he was the author of “ The Names and Seantlings of Inventions of a Century,” from the 58th article of which it is supposed that Capt. Savery took the first hint of the Steam Engine. imlglzm (Castle stands about a quarter of a mile from the village, on a hill formerly called Twyn-y- Ceoz'os or the flurry Tamp. This once magnificent abode of the family of Worcester, stands on a tract of ground not less than one third of a mile in circumference. The earliest account we have of Raglan, is, that the powerful family of Clare, possessed a castle at Raglan in the 12th century. Richard Strongbow, Earl of Pembroke, and Lord of Chepstow, who died 1177, gave the domains and castle of Raglan to Sir Walter Bloet, whose descendant Sir. John Bloet, gave his only daughter and heiress 40 RAGLAN CASTLE. Isabel, in marriage to Sir James Berkeley; he disposed of it to Sir William ap Thomas, who married Gwaladus, daughter of Sir David Gam of Old Court, they both fell at the battle of Agincourt, in defending the person of Henry V. William Herbert. son of Sir William ap Thomas, was created Earl of Pembroke, and Lord of Chepstow and Raglan, and was entrusted by Edward IV. with the custody of the Earl of Richmond, after- wards Henry VIP, ‘who was detained for some time in this castle. The Earl of Pembroke, owner of the castle in 1469, raised an army of VVelshmen in favor of Edward IV., against the Lancastrians, under the command of the Earl of Warwick; he was taken prisoner at the battle of Danes Moor, and was beheaded at Banbury; Lord Herbert was succeeded in the Earldom of Pembroke by his son, who exchanged it for the title of Huntingdon, his only daughter, Elizabeth, conveyed the castles of Raglan and Chepstow to Sir Charles Somerset, Earl of “Torcester. At his death, his son Charles assumed the name of Somerset, and attained to great wealth and honour, Henry VIP, whose mother and Henry Duke of Somerset, were brother’s children. Henry the 4th. Earl, and first Marquis of Worcester, born in 1562, brings us down to the principal events connected with the castle. At the commencement of the civil wars, he was a staunch sup- porter of the royal cause, and raised for the unfortunate Charles 1,500 feet and 500 horse, with these he confined himself within the walls and obstinately defended the castle against Cromwell’s army. Charles I. visited this castle several times and was entertained in a most princely style. After the departure of the King it was moms cAsrLr. 41 again besieged on the 3rd of June 1646, by CO], Morgan at the head of a formidable army. At length Sir Thos. Fairfax arrived to superintend the siege, and made his head quarters at Uzi/)2. tz'ttaj'i‘ a farm house about 2 miles distant. Continued losses without prospect of success or relief, obliged the Marquis to eapitulate. Honourable terms were promised but not fulfilled, he was taken prisoner to London and confined in the tower, where he was treated with great severity. The castle was dis- mantled, and the estates valued at £20,000 a year, were confiscated, they were recovered at the Restoration, but the castle has not been since inhabited. It now belongs to the Duke of Beaufort, and is kept in a very neat state. On approaching the castle, the spots where the outer meat and first gate of brick formerly stood, is passed, and at the distance of 180 feet, the ‘Vhite gate between two towers is reached; on entering the second court a fine Lawn 150 feet long presents itself, and at the extremity, the Grand Entrance, between two magnificent barbacan towers. Passing under the archway you arrive at what was once the Blosa'z'c pared Court, 60 feet by 1.20 feet, new neatly earpetted with green sward. A passage at theend of the Bangnettmg Hall, leads to the Fountain Court nearly 100 by 60 feet, where a White Horse on a pedestal with a marble fountain, formerly stood, and from this court is the entrance to the Terrace or Tilt yard, 260 feet by 77 feet. Several rustic seats are t This Estate has lately been purchased by the Country and presented to Lord Raglan (son of the late Field Marshal) in com, meinoration of the services of that general in the Crimean 'War, against Nicholas, the Emperor of Russia. The house is rebuilt. i‘ 42 RAGLAN CASTLE. placed in different parts of the terrace. The apartments shewn, are the Closet Tower, the Library, the Ifz'z‘oken tower, the WVozf Lardor, the Bmzquo ttz'rzg lid” and Battery " ,! ‘- Hatch, Parlour, Dining and Drawing rooms, the Bell Tower, the Picture Gallery, the Chapel, and the Ifoop Tower. About 30 Vaults and Collars of all sorts, and three arched Bridges, besides the tower bridge, are still standing. The castle is nicely kept and great civility is displayed by the Warder. Sixpence each is charged for admission, for parties not exceeding half a dozen in number. Above that number fourpence each. Innsu~The Beaufort Arms; Ship; Crown. rsK CASTLE. 43 ESE. Distant from Miles. % Distant from Miles. Abergavenny . . . . . . . . . . 11 l Monmouth . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Chepstow . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 i Newport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ll Caerleon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 | Pontypool . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 This town is situated very nearly in the centre of l\’[onmouthshire, on the banks of the river from which it derives its name. It is a corporate and market town. It is undoubedly a place of great antiquity, and was the Roman Station, called L’arrzy'am, and derived the name from the ‘Velsh li’zor, meaning an entrenchment. THE CASTLE--MI'. ‘Wakemen in giving his account of this castle to the members of the Caerleon Archiological society, said, there did not appear to have been any Castle here at the conquest, at least no mention is made in Doomsday, of Usk by name, but there is an entry in that document, which, from the description given, can only refer to Usk Castle. Twrstain Fitz Rolfe is described as holding certain lands between the Usk and the Wye, and certain other lands beyond the Usk. Twrstain Fitz Rolfe, Lord of Usk, died without issue, and Usk appears to have been granted to Richard de Clare. In 1314, when the last Earl of Clare died, the Castle was conveyed by Elizabeth, his sister, to John de Burgh, Earl of Ulster; their grand-daughter Elizabeth, was married to the Duke of Clarence, the third son of Edward III. ; whose daughter Phillippi married and conveyed the Castle to Mortimer, Earl of March and Ulster, Lord of ‘Vigmore, Clare, and Connaught, and Marshal of England ; he died in 1381 ; his son Roger was born in this castle in 1371. Rogers eldest son Edmund, was married to Anne, 44 USK CASTLE. the daughter of the Earl of Stafford, but having no issue, the castle was inherited by his nephew, Richard, Duke of York, and became his favorite residence ; two of his sons, the princely Edward and brave Richard, afterwards kings of England, are said to have been born in the castle. On the death of Richard, Henry VII. became the proprietor, and it afterwards descended to William, first Earl of Pembroke. It was purchased of Herbert, Viscount Windsor, by Valentine Morris of Pierceficld, near Chepstcw, who sold it to Lord Olive, of whom it was purchased by Henry Somerset, 5th Duke of Beau- fort, and descended to the present proprietor, Henry Charles, eighth Duke of Beaufort. , The ruins of this castle stand opposite to the Railway Station, on an eminence, and is approached by a flight of steps from the town. They consist of a shell, which encloses an area or court, and some outworks to the west, formed by two straight walls converging one to the other and strengthened at their union by round towers. Charter. -- The original charter granted by Roger Mortimer, Earl of March, conferring privileges on the Mayor and Burgesses, was burnt during the sacking and conflagration of the town by Owen Glendowcr. It was dated 26th July, 1398, in the 21st year of Richard II. The ratification of that charter, was made by Edmund de Mortimer, on the first of February, 1416. The CORPORATION consists of a Portreeve, Recorder, Alderman and Burgcsses, but their powers are very limited. The Priory—There was formerly a priory of five benc- dietine nuns, founded about the year 1236, by Gilbert USK—-PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 4 5 de Clare. An old building near the Gas Works, called the Black Friar’s, was formerly in connexion with the priory, and is supposed to have been granted to Sir Roger Williams, in consideration of his martial services in the Netherlands. THE Cannon, which is dedicated to St. Mary, is ancient. The tower, which once formed the centre, now stands at the east end of the building. The church was formerly attached to the Priory, being both a conventual and parochial church. The arches which are shown, are Norman, of the 12th century, but alterations and additions were made in the 13th and 15th centuries. There is an inscription on a brass plate, which has puzzled antiquarians. The following is as near a copy as can be given 1112 an in rtlnntr are time nbrnmtt lhntm bate Ilaninrnfthnrnnnrlatrhauntumlrtmamiotq burnt érlifinunnirrinnuautmnqalarnultnstr .Urla ltIItHIIIHiIt hnrtnr linemen 11121111 Inrillumualmr Dr. Owen Pugh, Mr. “Takeman, and many others have given interpretations of it, but none have been altogether satisfactory. The characters are said to be of Henry III. reign, in the 18th century. T he House of Correction is a very commodious building erected on the pl an of the Model Prison at Pentonville. The separate and silent systems are carried out herei The cleanliness and capital arrangement of the whole establishment reflect credit on those who superintend the management of it. 46 USK —PUBLIC BUILDINGS. The Ton/‘)2. Hill is situated in New Market street. The building has recently been enlarged, and rendered more airy. The General Quarter sessions for the county are held here, at which S. It. Bosanquet, Esq., of Din- gestow Court, presides. T/ze Railway—The branch railway from Monmouth to Little Mill was commenced on the 11th of April, 1854, and on the 2nd of June, 1856, the first four miles from its Junction with the Newport, Abergavenny and Hereford Railway at Iiittl Mill to Usk, was opened. A Free Gramnmrhsbhool was founded here by Ml“. Roger Edwards, for boys of the Parishes of Usk, Llan- gwm Ucha, Llangeview, and Gwernesney, with an exhibition at Oxford. The Chapels in this town belong to the Wesleyan Methodists, the Baptists, and the Independents. The Roman Cat/wife Church was erected by Subscription and opened in 1847, it is dedicated to StFrancis Xavier and will accommodate 200 persons. The flfee/lam'es’ Imzfzlfufe was harmed in March 1850, and the Gas W'orks were erected in 1851. The town is well laid out, and stands on a large tract of ground. The buildings are irregular and many of them much dilapidated. The scenery from the hills which encircle the town is very pleasing and 1M1‘li—llli0, and the view from the bridge is very beautiful, the combination ofhill and dale, park-like woods, and grounds, intersected by the clear waters of the river Usk, cannot fail to be admired. ANTIQUITILS.-—Tl1€lf€ have been many vestiges dug RAILWAY FROM USE TO TAFF VALE LINE. up to prove, that in early times this town was of some importance. Paved ways, several feet below the surface, have been discovered in digging foundations, toman coins have frequently been found, and there are visible remains of several Roman encamp- ments in the neighbourhood. EXTENT AND POPULATION.—Tl1€ whole parish, which includes the hamlets 0f Gwehelog and Glascoed, com- prises 4,479 acres. The town contained at the last census, 814 houses and 1452 inhabitants. For a further description of this town and Raglan Castle, refer to the Gil/(Z0 to Us]; and ‘its fivezlqhbom'lrood, which is sold in the town. Commercial lnns.~—Three Salmons, and King’s Hea d. Tnn RAILYVAY. The westward course taken by the line from Usk. is through a prettily wooded part of the V ale of Usk, to Little Mill Jamction, from which, you proceed in the Hereford train to l’cntg/pool road Station, a distance of two miles. If it be your intention to go to Newport, you will keep your seat, but if it be your wish to go to Cardiff, over the Crumlin Viaduct, you must leave the carriage, and go to the opposite platform, where a train is ready to convey you in that direction. This train passes to .POilZfj/POOZ Town Staéz'mz, and from thence to Crumlin, where the famous viaduct crosses the ‘Western Valleys line, which connects Newport with Blaina, Ebbw Vale, and Tredegar Iron Works. Before proceeding on the direct route to Newport, a brief description of places of importance on the Taft“ Vale Extension and Tait Yale Lines, to Cardiff, and the Vale of Neath Line, to Swansea, will be given. 48 PONTYPOOL—CRUHLIN runner. PONTYPOOL About one mile from l’ontypool Road Station, lies 'Pontypool, a market town in the extensive parish of Trevethin. The town is very irregularly constructed, a portion of it being built on the steep slope of a hill and other parts fixed in hollows. Of late years some fine buildings have been erected, among the number may be mentioned the New Tozon ][all, the gift of C. H. Leigh, Esq, Pontypool Park, erected in 1856. The Bank, the W’oslog/an Chapel, and several private residences. The Town Hall was completed in January 1856. The trade of the town entirely depends on the iron, tin and coal works, which are carried on extensively within a radius of ten miles, at Blaenavon, Golynos, Varteg, Abersychan, Pontnewynydd, Pontymoile, Panteague, Pontrhydyrun, Pontnewydd, Cwmbran, and several other places. The population of the parish has increased wonderfully in half a century: in 1801, it contained only 1,472 inhabitants, in 1851, 16,864, and the population at present is not much under 20,000. From Pontypool the line traverses through a romantic and mountainous district to the far famed C RUMLIN VIADUCT, five miles from Pontypool. This stupendous viaduct crosses the valley at a height of 210 feet, and extends from the summit of one mountain to that of another. It is said to be the largest railway bridge in the world, "and is composed wholly of iron. The centre piers eon- CRUMLIN VIADUCT—RHYMNEY RAIL‘WA Y sist of 140 cast iron columns, each 17 feet long, and 12 inches in diameter, placed in tiers of 14 columns each. These 11 columns form an irregular decagon, and the area of the base is 60 feet by 8/0 feet, the whole being laterally and vertically stiffened and kept in position by cross bracing, and some idea may be formed of the completeness of the arrangement, when it is known that there are no fewer than (HO wrought iron ties in one pier. The viaduct consists of 10 spaces of 150 feet each, which with the approaches, make its entire length, just one third of a mile. The first column of the via- duct was cmnmenced in December 1853, by Lady Isabella Iiitzmaurice, and the whole was completed in 1856. At the first sight of this structure, the beholder is impressed with wonder and admiration at its airy lightness, combined with elegance and solidity, and at finding such aspeeimen of architectural beauty springing up in a wild and rugged mountain pass. To insure safety in crossing the viaduct, lines of guard rails are raised above the traffic rgils. Prom Crumlin, the line extends to Rhymizey Junction where there is a handsome stone viaduct 640 feet in length, 130 feet in height, and composed of 16 arches of 30 feet span each. A train from Rhymney Iron works waits here to take passengers to Cardiff. The extension of the Hereford line proceeds as far as Quakers’ Yard, where it joins the Taff Yale Railway, which connects Cardiff with Aberdare and Merthyr. Qt'iinnns’ YARD, derives its name from a burial place in the village, belonging to a Society of Friends. The Quakers’ Yard Junction is on the top of an incline on the e 5O MEBTHYB TYDVIL men wonrcs. Tafl" Vale line, up which the trains are drawn by a wire rope, attached to a stationery engine. About 72,17 miles from this spot is MERTHYR TYDVIL, A large market town and parliamentary Borough. It is a most extensive and populous parish in the hundred of Caerphilly, in the county of Glamorgan. Its ancient name was lllerthg/r Judfyl, said to have been derived from Tudvyl, the daughter of Brychan Brycheiniog, a Christian Prince of a district called Garth Mathrin, Breconshire, who with her father, and his son Rhun, was murdered, or as it was then considered, sufi‘ered martyrdom, at the hands of the Pagan Saxons in the 6th century; and a well, called Tydvz'l’s Well in the neighbourhood, is supposed to be the spot where the murder was committed, and from the circumstance the name of MM 63/?" Tydm'l arose. The town is situated in the midst of bleak and barren _ hills, on the banks of the river, Tali‘, which rises in the Brecknockshire mountains, and falls into the sea at Cardiff. The population of the place of late years has increased with astonishing rapidity, a few years ago the town consisted only of an unsightly cluster of wretched hovels, but it is now one of the most populous districts in Gla- morganshire, and contains some well built houses. The borough includes the whole of the parish of Merthyr, Aberdare, and Coed-y-Cwmmwr, and with the parish has a population of nearly 80,000 inhabitants. In past ages it was known as a place for the smelting of iron ore, but the operations were not carried to any great mnmrrn rrnvrr. IRON worms. 51 extent, until 1775, when Mr. Anthony Bacon, obtained a long lease of a large tract of ground full of iron and coal, and entered into contracts with government for supplying cannon. He built large works in different parts of the district, which called for a great number of hands, and the population began to rapidly increase. After accumulating an immense fortune, he leased out tracts of land to various parties, and the largest portion became possessed by Mr. Crawshay, whose energy and intelligence raised the operations in iron to such magni- tude, that Merthyr became one of the most celebrated places in the kingdom for the manufacture of that arti- cle. There are about 50 blast furnaces in operation, each of which averages 80 tons of iron per week. Im- mense heaps of cinders are formed from the refuse of the mines and furnaces, which being deposited in a heated state, causes it to smoulder until ignition takes place, so that flickering flames of varied colours are seen at night issuing from these mountains of cinders. The principal works are the Cyfwrthfa, the Dowlaz's, the Gadly’s and the Aberdare Compavny’s furnaces. The first mentioned has 13 furnaces going, each of which employs 400 men, and the average quantity of coal used in the Cyfarthfa and Dowlais works averages upwards of 1000 tons per day. The productions of this district are conveyed by rail and canal to Cardiff, to be shipped. Similar operations are carried on in every part of the district, particularly at Hirwain and Aberdare, which places are reached by rail or by taking a walk of about four miles over the mountains to the west. 52 MERTHYR TYDVIL—BESIDENCES. Merthyr has one principal street extending from near the Taft‘ Vale railway station to Dowlais, with several side streets branching to the right and left. lt has fiiur Churches, about forty Chapels, several Public Schools, a Court Hoar-so, and a good number of modern and res- pectable shops. The illarlrl Liam? is very coinmculious, occupying about two acres et'land. The Mansions in the neighbourhood are Q/flirrtlfa Castle, a noble lOfililll building with extensive groumls on the slope of a hill about a mile from the town, the residence of TV. Crawshay, Esq, proprietor of Cyfarthta and other works ; Doalaz's Lrozmo, Poaj/(larroa -Uoaso, Daflry/a, Aliorammoa, Plymouth floaso, GaoallyaT-y-pazrtli and Gaallg/s. The only memorial of antiquity is the Castle of lilo)"— la'zis, on a hill beyond Cyfartht'a castle, and about three miles distant from the town, supposed to have been the site of a British camp, and afterwards a Norman castle, finally demolished by the Parliamentary army. The Railway Stations are commodious and conveni- ent, particularly the one belonging to the Vale ot‘Xeath company, which is handsomely fitted up, and the ear- riages are undoubtedly the best in this part of the king- dom. Commercial Inns—Castle; Bush; Angel. Conveyanees.-—Coach to Tredegar and Ebbw Yale, from the Vale of Neath Railway, every afternoon at 3 30.-- ll‘lail Coach to Abergavenny, through _l)e\\ lais, llhyinney and Tredegar, from the Castle every morning (Sundays excepted) at 8.~——Coaeh to llrecon, from the Castle, every afteriuion, at 4 lie leach to lleaufiirt, every Monday and Saturday, at 3 30 p. m. ABERDARE.-—TAFF VALE RAILWAY. 58 ABERDARE Is a market town in the hundred of Miskin, and may be reached from Merthvr by a wall; of four miles over the mountain, or by taking the rail to Abernant, which lies within a mile of the place, and walking down the hill into the ‘Yawn. lint as these arrangements will not suit persons with lug-gags, the best mode is to go on to Hirwain, where a train will be in waiting to convey you to Aberdare. The population. of the parish, includ- ing Cefn-l’emier, Cwmdare, Forchanian and Llwydeoed, is about 18,000. It is situated in the midst ofrieh coal and iron mines, which afford ample emplo‘vment to the inhabitants. It has a neat church, with a tower and finely pointed spire, and contains a fine peal of bells. Commercial lnns.——Boot ; Queens. rArr viiLn RAILWAY. " This line of railway was partially opened in 1840, and completed April 12, 18M. A single line of rails was only laid down at that time, but the tratiio soon be- came so enormous that the company was obliged to lay down a second. It extends from Merthvr to the Bute Docks at Cardilt, a distance of 21% miles, and from it diverges several branch railways, including one to Aberdare, and another up the Rhondda Talley. Some portions of the line pass through scenery of a romantic and magnificent character, and the principal objects on the ournev, are, the viaduct over the Tait at Quakers’ Yard, 100 l'eet high and 000 long; the In- cline Plane at Navigation House, the Bridge at Pent-y pridd, Taif’s “Tell a tepid mineral spring, held in much reputation. in the district, Castle Coeh, Tin \Yorlrs at lilelyn Grittith and l’ei'ityreh, and Llandatf Cathedral. 54 JOURNEY BY RAIL FROM MEBTHYB. TO CABDIPF- hi on THE LEFT g FROM MERTHYR. i E a U 21 16 Llancaich Branch 15 Railway for 13% minerals. Pont-y-pridd or Newbridge. 11?, Glyn Taft‘ church. 10% Iron works. Maesmawr colliery 7 ToC aerphilly castle nnlcs. 67; Castcl Coch or Ited Castle. Ruperra, 7 miles. Capt. Godfrey Morgan. To Cofn Mably, 5 miles. Yelindre. 3;}; ‘Vhitehurch. Roath cottage. ltoath court. ‘- Taff’s Well sta. MERTHYR TYDVIL. Collieries and furnaces. Troedrhiew sta. Viaduct over the Taft’. Tunnel. Incline top. Quaker’ s Yard. Navigation house. Bridge across river Cynon. Aberdare june, Bridge over Clydach. Bridge over river Ithondda. Newbridge sta. T reforcst station Tunnel. Pentyrch station Llandafl' station. CARDIFF. Bute Docks. MERTHYR ON THE RIGHT FROM MERTHYR. 2 wh-I \T *Slr-l é-n-I 181, ‘hr 20 IO 10 FF‘ co ‘MP—vi" Aberdare Branch Railway, 8% miles Rhondda Branch Railway for minerals. Tin works of Messrs. Crawshay. Demen Clawdd. Garth hill. 1}, T aff ’s well, a tepid mineral spring successfully used for the cure of rheumatic pains. Pentyrch furnaces. Tin works. Llandafi', 1 mile. Llystalybont soap works. PONT-Y-PRIIDD. 55 I’ONT-Y-PRIDD on NEWBRIDGE, A station on the Taif Vale Railway, is 12 miles from Cardiff and about 7 miles from Caerphilly. It is situ— ated in a wild and picturesque valley, and has risen from an obscure village in 1816, to a place of commer- cial importance. Iron and chain cable works are car- ried on here with great spirit, and the tin works at Treforest, not far distant, are said to be the largest in the kingdom. The Bridge, from which the town derives its name, is the work of a self-taught mason and architect, named William Edwards, of whose perse- verence and ingenuity it is a striking memorial. It is aptly named Pont-y-prz'dd, “The Bridge of Beauty.” In 1746, having contracted to erect a bridge at this place, Edwards first constructed one with three arches, but owing to the rapid swell of the river, and the number of trees and other weighty things brought down by the flood, this bridge was quickly swept away. He then constructed another in 1751, with one arch, but it was scarcely completed, when the weight of the masonry in the abutments caused the arch to spring in the middle, and reduced it to ruins. The third attempt proved successful, he reduced the weight, by introducing three circular openings in each of the abutments. The arch forms the perfect segment of a circle, with a chord of 140 feet, and a height from the spring to the key stone of 35ft. An inscription in the centre, fixes the date of its completion at 1756, so that Pont-y-pridd has now stood for upwards of a century. Underneath the bridge is an echo which is said to repeat a single sound nine times. sancpl ‘no; ‘12 pug Kent asnnaoq mp, pun ‘Rfifioq on: HIE], -UHOU1 eq; 50 srmtl otnog 'Jestretnog Jo seloqs amalsrp em tool; emtspx PUB ‘@[EA oql nt sipctu pmq sn tmaonq HOAX ‘qnmnl can, turn pounow st 1,; 5120s 01p, Jo [MOI on"; elloqn splci 159 I‘) ‘3,00; 195 sgntnlnnotn: 9111 Jo aqfiroq elm 'p‘cq oq ietn smotnqsotrrm Iptqll 3,13 ‘[IIB], amour saw 10 msnq mp, ‘11: P01121115 st nut UV 'ponnrlqo oq ism sl cpl [ntrlqfiqep PIP} SAISUOlXO qotqm U101} ‘simian n nwvo en; pnoosc pun ‘esotllntl on], .10; atlcq anoq 0.31111 13 nt going JOAII erg $8010 'PQJGAODQI Xpoojtwl 91U0i[ 11111101 on} 10 ZIJOAX c at ‘soqolnlo no oleql onto.) 01px incur lent alosse poo‘qanoolqfiton orp, Ur eploedj 'sloolto pzror'teuoq oonetteilxo pun lOtlS etp, on, qaosett ‘u'tstnztunoql [Una pol/ergo snosttotl iuctu ptn; ‘sen, atodonl [ntnotpetu slt 1o; lopustp on], III nopelntlol lest? III p'pq “fintnls Imonttn pale], n U101} omen sat soépal TIELXX S dcIVL 'vppfiorffl mg no ‘mmstp sown: on} ‘largo org ' pun "snotstltp [moles nt 190} ()[ 10 8 spneosep QOIIIAX ‘31ml 10141 etp no ‘ofinttq orp, OAOQU own 13 Heq eno ‘SHPJ16111\\ firms 0M1, on: otfipptqlnog '10 Xnntopx org n1 ‘mun Sntstltlloluo stq; go {pleas to snnrlnoo h/sorqnognp Jopnn efipopnonli]: go 111191111 7, pope) ‘NLIOAK TIAXOTIFI Hon GILL 'ltnlnoo gstq oqa go slopunq aiipprq snotnn} asotn oqa, go eno etnmeq oq ptnz ‘lhqtqeloeclsel 0,1201% 50 nonms 'e 01, mm POOUBA ~pe splnnpg nmmmx vto ospuhogno pun SJIIOIR} mm L , "I'IEIAI S ‘HERB—J (ICII‘LIJ-L-LLNOtI 9 Q CAEBPHILLY casrmz. 57 indigenous to such places, as Hyperz'c/um Eloales, Drosem rot'zu-zdzfolz'a, Aaagallzis tenella, C'armpanala hcdemeea, Scuz‘dlarz'a minor, Em'ophommz polystaohion, HyCZVOCOtZ/Ze vulgar/27.9, and Career palz'cairrlz'a. On descending the mountain, re-cross the river, and pursue your way between the line of hills to CAERPHILLY CASTLE, ‘Which is about seven miles distant from Cardiff, six from Llandaff, miles from Taff’s \Vell station, and within a few minutes walk of Caerphilly station on the New Rhymney railway. It is situated among the range of bleak and barren hills which run through Gla- morganshire and stretch northward into Breeknockshire. The village is small and irregular, containing about 800 inhabitants; and the chief support of the inhabitants arises from the manfacture of woollen shawls, fiannels, 8:0. It was formerly a borough, but lost its privileges in the reign of Henry VIII. There are two decent inns in the place, which derive their principal trade from visitants to the castle. Cadiior ab Cedrych obtained from Fitzhamon the lordship of Senghenydd, which extends from Caerphilly to Merthyr; he had two sons, named Griflith and Ivor, who took an active part in the defeat of the Normans, at Gellygaer, in 1095. Scott has celebrated this event in the ballad of “ The Norman Horse Shoe.”— “ From Chepstow’s towers ere dawn of day, was heard afar the bugle horn; And forth in banded pomp and pride, Stout Clare and fiery Neville ride; They swore their banners broad should gleam, H 58 CAEBPHILLY CASTLE. In crimson light on Rhymney’s stream; And vowed Caerphilly’s sod should feel, The Norman charger‘s spurring heel. And sooth they swore—~the sun arose, And Rhymney’s wave with crimson glows ; For Clare’s red banner floating wide, Rolled down the stream to Severn’s tide ; And sooth they vowed—~the trampled green, Showed where hot Neville’s charge had been ; In every sable hoof tramp stood, A Norman horseman’s curdling blood.” The CASTLE occupies the centre of a plain, and pre- sents the idea of a dilapidated town. Its magnificent ruins evince that it must have been one of the largest and grandest castles in Britain. The ruin does not present the architectural decorations of Carnarvon, the 'commanding position of Chepstow or Conway, nor the picturesque beauty of Raglan, but surpasses all in its vast dimensions and assemblage of lofty walls and towers. Mr. Manby, who traversed this ground some sixty years ago, says,“ “It is almost unaccountable, that a fortress, which for size, strength and compactness, whose ruins even now discover it to have had elegance united with utility, and no doubt can be entertained but it has borne the brunt of many a storm, and a great share in the broils and troubles of the Principality, as well as the affairs of the kingdom in general, should have so few records of its events, or who were its possessors ; in this we are embarressed by dilhculty, and perplexed by uncertainty, and the in- quisitive beholder cannot but be astonished at the little information to be obtained of the remains of a pile he cannot look on without surprise, nor contemplate without awe. It has been thought to CAERPHILLY CASTLE. 59 have had its origin from the Britons, and afterwards to have been used as a garrison by the Romans; founded by Beli Gwar, a king of Britain, and brother to the Gaulish general Brennus, near 400 years previous to the birth of Christ; but all this conjecture must be vague and undeterminate, for no history can furnish any real information of its founder and the time of its founda~ tion. It has borne various turns of fortune, according to the success or defeat of the parties engaged, and ere gunpowder was in- vented, must have easily withstood the shocks of warfare for ages, and, while provisions could be kept within, would render abortive all attacks without. When possessed by the turbulent Welsh, it was a considerable impediment to the British, and as often as it could by them be obtained, was held as a check on the Cambrians. The whole building, and erections belonging, is said to have been two miles in circumference, with thirteen draw-bridges, where indications of them may be observed on the north and west, and a wall with inverted arches is peculiarly attractive. A round tower was at each angle, and the one at N. N. W. point is singularly beautiful, and demands particular attention for its deep incrustation of ivy, and being separated down the middle, where it exhibits the four stories which communicated by galleries. The grand hall was 70 feet by 30, and 17 feet in height, sup- ported by 20 arches ; two noble windows from the ground reached the ceiling of the room, ornamented with leaves and husks, with fruit like balls ; the fire-place is near nine feet wide, and high in proportion; on one side of this hall are seven clusters of round pillars, and each cluster has three busts to support them; at the east end are door-ways eight feet high, leadingto a yard of 70 yards by 40, and nearly in the middle was a well. The whole of the interior buildings was surrounded by a wall of considerable height, and remarkable thickness, with buttresses and square towers, all connected by a gallery, and above it was a walk, and a secret communication contrived within a wall, where only one person could go abreast; at the eastern end is the gateway, which con- 60 CAERPHILLY CASTLE. tains three grooves for portoullises; the mill was between the outer Wall and the meat, and on the west side of the stairs is a low round place called the mint house, supported by three pointed arches. Of the whole ruins, extensive and cumbrous as they are, there is no part so truly remarkably as the leaning tower; vfilen we contemplate its wonderful situation, or by what means it became so, it makes the mind lose itself in discussing, and fluctuate in conjecture, as the top reclines eleven feet and a half over the base ; the apparent weakness of its support, and that so mutilated with the attitude it assumes, threatening immediate destruction to whoever should approach it, render it an object of inconceiveable interest, and it is allowed nearly, if not equally, as great a curiosity as the celebrated leaning tower of Pisa, in Italy; this extraordinary object is divided into two separate parts from the top nearly to the middle, in such manner that each side hangs over, and the fissure is so wide, that I walked easily through it. Having been informed that the best mode of observing the effect of this astonishing pile was to lie flat on the back close to its base, I was induced to try, and it surpassed my expectations in grandeur and delight, until terror interrupted, and prompted me to rise in much less time than was taken to place myself in the position, nor did I recover the sensation, until I was well out of its reach. In the opinion of several persons of judgment, who have com- pared it with other castles, this fortress is supposed to have been the largest in the kingdom excepting \Vindsor, and from its vast magnitude and admirable structure, has been afirmed by many to have been a Roman garrison: that there might have been a castle on this spot is not unlikely, but there are no marks re- maining, nor have coins or other articles been found to ascertain the certainty; it may be remarked, that on all places known to be Roman, numberless fragments of their labour were accustomed to be stamped With some peculiar mark to denote the constructor, nor were medals ever omitted to be strewed or deposited by them; but nothing of this kind, nor even the smallest vestige of an im- plements or utensil has been hitherto found, belonging to that CAEBPH'ILLY CASTLE. 61 nation. I shall not enter so deeply into the subject as to centre-- vert the different opinions of others, or substitute ideas of my own, the ruins themselves will declare an early time, whether considered as the remains of the original, or the splendid addition to an older fabric. The earliest accounts I could find, began with Gryffyth ap Ivor ap Meurig, Lord of Senghennyth (the present Caerphilly); he was one of the chiefs who attended Henry II. in council, to restore peace in the Marches. In the reign of John, when Llewellyn had caused a revolt, and was excommunicated by the pope, he endeavoured to retain the interest of Reginald de Bruce, by giving his daughter into the family, and assigning to her hus- band the important fortress of Senghennyth, now Caerphilly. “Then Henry III. ascended the throne, Reginald de Bruce re- turned to his allegiance, and Llewellyn immediately assaulted Brecknock, the principal town of his lordship, but by artful contrivance and dissimulation, Reginald persuaded Llewellyn to raise the siege cf Brecknock, and restore to his family Senghen- myth, or Caerphilly. Some historians relate that, when the barons and the king made peace, the ‘Velsh princes were excluded, and afterwards perfi- diously turned their arms against them. The Earl of Pembroke violently acted in this underhand business, and made dreadful devastation in the Marches ; but Rhys \‘ychan besieged, took, and destroyed the important fortress of Caerphilly, which had an English garrison, and also other fortresses; in fine, he compelled the enemy to retreat, and regulated the Cambrians so as to defend their territories. Caerphilly became, under the influence of the Earl of Clare, by marrying his daughter to Rhys Gryg, a chicftain of great conse- quence, who chiefly resided there as the principal barrier of Cambri, since the destruction of Caerleon, and from the stations of Red Castle, Thorn Hill, and T wyn Barlwn, was strongly secured. After the death of Llewellyn, and the conquest of Wales by Edward 1., Rhys submitted to the English power; and Caer- philly, or Senghennyth, with all the hill fortresses, were delivered up to the Earl of Gloucester. Edward afterwards visited the 62 CAERPHILLY CASTLE. various fortresses, and particularly ordered Cardiff’ and Caerphilly to be repaired, strengthened, and beautified. In the unfortunate rrdgn of Edward II., the Spensers having become the favorites of the monarch, the king, the queen, and the barons were at variance, and commotions were the consequence. Hugolin Spenser was for a long time besieged in Caerphilly castle, which at length surrendered to the infamous Mortimer. In Glendwr’s rebellion, Henry IV. confided the castle of Caer- philly to Constantia, lady Despenser. This lady was afterwards concerned in the plot of endeavouring to raise her brother, the Duke of York, to the throne, and is said to have concerted mea- sures with Glendwr, who was to have taken charge of the Earl of March, and the duke, if she could effect their escape from capti- ’ vity at Windsor. She did procure their release, but, on their way to Caerphilly, were, with herself, retaken. However, she obtained a pardon, and was reinstated at this castle.” This stupendous remain ‘has been well described by Barber, as follows :— “ We passed the barbiean, now built up into habitations, and, proceeding between two dilapidated towers, entered the great area of the castle. A range of buildings, beneath the rampart on our right, once formed the barracks of the garrison. \Ve then ad- vanced to that pile of superior buildings, i.e. of citadel, hall, chapel, state and other apartments, which is generally considered as the castle, in distinction from the circling arena and its wall. Clambering over the fragments of another drawbridge, and its de- fending towers, we entered the first court, which appears to have comprised the citadel. Thence we passed through a large gateway, with several grooves for porteullises, to the principal court of the castle. The area of this court is 70 yards by 40. On the south side is that princely apartment, by some considered the hall, and by others the chapel. But whichever it may have been, vestiges of much original beauty appear in the elegant outline of its four large windows, the grand proportions of the chimney-piece, and the light triplet pillars, with arches, which go round the room. The appearance of mortice-holcs in the walls, for the ends of CAERPHILLY earns. 63 beams, at the height of about the middle of the windows, led Camden to suppose that the ceiling was projected thence, and that an apartment above was lighted by the upper portion of the win- dows; but surely at a time when symmetry in building was so well cultivated, and where it appears to have been so successfully applied, such a ridiculous ccntrivance could not have taken place; more likely from these mortices a support was derived for a lofty arched roof, or a gallery. The external stair-case entrance to the hall, spoken of by Camden—‘the roof whereof is vaulted, and supported by twenty arches,’——-is now rendered nearly impassable by rubbish. Eastward of the hall is a leaning tower. This bulky fragment of the ruin is between 70 and 80 feet in height, and of a prodigious thickness. It inclines nearly eleven feet from the per- pendicular, and is only held together by the strength of its cement. It has stood in this position for many centuries. The cause must have arisen from a local failure in the foundation, or from the perforation of a mine. A remarkable effect is said to be produced by lying flat upon the back, close to the base, on looking up‘ There is a similar tower at Pisa, 180 feet high, and 14 feet from the perpendicular; it is constructed of marble, and contains eight stories. Near this part of the ruin a place is shewn, called the Mint, with the remains of two furnaces for melting metal. Others say that, when Edward II. was besieged here,“ the furnaces were used for smelting iron, which was cast upon the besiegers, and the tower was rent in two by an explosion caused by throwing water upon it. From this chamber we ascended a spiral stair- case to the corridor, still in very good preservation, which, lighted by small windows, and passing round the principal court, formed a communication with the difl‘erent apartments. The external view of the west entrance of the ruin, with its ponderous circular towers venerably shaded with ivy, is remarkably striking, and, with the remains of its drawbridge and defending outwork, may be considered as the most entire part of the ruin. An artificial mound at some distance, but within the works of the castle, was, most likely, used for exploratory purposes. From the general plan of this castle, there being no direct evidence to the contrary, its foundation has been attributed to the Romans; but it suffi- 64 cannrn ILLY cisrLa. eiently appears that no considerable part of the present fortress was built by them. as Lil?) predatory army of Rhys Fychan took and razed Caerpl 3‘ v Castle, in 1221.” It is supposed that Gilbert do Clare, the last but one of that name, was the fowzder, circa 1270, The next lord of Glamorgz'ui in succession fell at Bannockburn, and, having no male issue, his immense estates were divided amongst his three sisters, Caerphilly falling to the portion of Eleanor, who married Hugh le Despenser, the younger, the well-known favorite of Edward II. About the year 1320, it was recorded that the younger Despenser had been for some time governor of this castle, which he greatly enlarged and strengthened. Six years afterwards, the king and his two “ minions ” fled to Bristol, where the elder Spenser was barbarously executed, and the king, accompanied by the other, em- barked in a vessel on the Channel, with the intention of taking refuge in the wild and almost inaccessible seclu- sion of Lundy Island: but the elements were against him, and, bailied by storms and opposing gales, he was compelled to land near Neath, in Glamorganshire. His subsequent movements, until his capture, are narrated so variously that it is impossible to thread the maze. These facts are certain : That he took refuge for a time at Neath Abbey and at Margam, and that he was captured owing to treachery, with his friend Spenser, near Llantrissent. Whether the latter event occurred after, or rather in the midst of, a siege of Caerphilly Castle, seems a matter of uncertainty. The siege is the most memorable episode in the history of Caerphilly. Despenscr had a son, the second Hugh Despenser, the younger, a youth of twenty, who, ac:- CLERPHILLY CASTLE. 65 cording to the generally received accounts, seems to have been old in judgment and resolution, although in an eleborate essay on this Castle, which appeared in the West of England Journal, a periodical published at Bris- tol 1886, this view is controverted. It is there assert- ed that Hugh Despenser, jun., did not act as military governer of the castle during the siege, but resided there supinely ; and it is certain that in 1827 a pardon was issued in favour of John de Felton, “for holding out Ker- filly against the Queen and Prince Edward. “ Malkin says that before the siege, “of live cattle, there were lodged within the Castle walls, two thousand fat oxen, twelve thousand cows, twenty-five thousand calves, thirty thou- sand fat sheep, two thousand fat hogs, six hundred draughthorses, and a sufficient number of carts for them, of salt provision two hundred beeves, six hundred mut- tons, one thousand hogs, two hundred tons of F reneh wine, forty tons of cider and wine, the produce of their own estates, with wheat enough to make bread for two thousand men for four years.” This is a most improbable statement; but no doubt can exist that the castle was well victualled. Roger Mortimer, who claimed Caerphilly Castle and its estates, as heir at law, commanded the besieging army, which is said to have consisted of 10,000 men. The Despensers had rendered themselves exceedingly unpopular in \Vales, a circumstance which favoured the hesiegers. The accounts of the siege are contradictory and obscure, like every other fact connected with the place, but it is certain that the resistance was obstinate and prolonged. At last a breach was made in a tower I 66 CAEBPHILLY casrrn. which had been filled with salt. There was a furnace close at hand for smelting iron [lead ‘9] for the purpose of pouring it on the besiegers, who “whether purposely or accidently is not known, allowed the fused metal to escape and poured water from the meat on it; the result was a tremendous explosion, which forced the tower into its present position.” This is Mr Malkins version of the origin of the celebrated leaning tower, and Mr. Harding, the author of the article on the Castles of Glamorgan which appears in the Cymmrodom'on Trans- act/ions, justly remarks, that “ its accuracy is strongly corroborated by marks which, resemble those of metal dashed against the wall with considerable violence, when in a state of fusions which are still to be seen.” Mr. Geo. V. Clarke, the able writer of the essay on Caerphilly already alluded to, differs from this opinion, and ascribes the inclination of the tower to the explo- sion of a mine at its foot, during the civil war, when, as it has been supposed, the castle was dismantled. Le- land does not mention a leaning tower here. The besieged, availing themselves of the confusion which ensued at the time of the breach, drove back the assailants with great loss; and ultimately the garri- son capitulated on honourable terms. Hugh le Despen- ser, the last of his name, was present at the coronation of the new monarch, Edward III. and “ delivered up,” says Kington, “the castle of Caerphilly, which he had from his father, to the king, aad placed himself at his disposal, who in return, granted him safety of life and limb,” and a portion of his paternal estates, though not the castle of Caerphilly, which appears to have withstood CASTELL coon. 67 another long siege in 1829. Soon afterwards, however, the castle was again granted to the Despensers, who de- femhd it against Uwt-n (jlendower. Leland (temp Henry YlIL} writes thus: “In lsaibac is Cairfilly Castclle sette among the marishes, wher be ruinieus walles cl" wondcrl'ull thickness and tower kept up for prisoners as to the chief hold of Senghennith.” The ‘lastle was not repaired during the civil war. It is now the property, of the Marquis of Bute. On leaving Caerphilly for Cardifi‘, pass along a moun— tainous road for about 8 miles, until you reach Cas mor Graig, where a bye road diverges to the right to CASTELL coon, which occupies the brow of a rocky height overlooking the Yale of the Taft, 5 miles from Cardifi“. This castle is situated exceedingly favourable for commanding the pass of the valley, for which purpose it was erected. Some say the period of its erection is coeval with that of Cardiff; and still further assert that there was a subterraneous communication between the two castles. That there were passages extending from Cardiff castle to some place unknown, certain. Castell Coch was long the residence of Her Bach, who gallantly headed the inhabitants of Glamorgan for the purpose of forcing Fitzhamon and his son-in-law, Robert Earl of Gloucester, to restore to their country its ancient rights and privileges. In the following century, however, it was in the possession of the Norman s, by whom it was enlarged and strengthened, if not entirely re-built. The 68 CASTELL eocm—rnonnnrrr. darkening garb of ivy which new clothes its mouldering and dilapidated walls, and the bushes and trees which have now become the residents of its courts, render it diflicult to trace its former magnificence. A view from the large lll'oliull window of the tower, presents a charming prospect, combining within its scope Cardiif, Llandafif, and a variety of interesting objects, and extending across the Bristol channel. Shortly after leaving the castle, in the direction of Cardiff, you mount to the top of Thorn/it'll, from whence a beautiful view of the country is obtained; the plains of Cardiff for miles afford a gratifying and widely extended pros- pect, interspersed with several villages, whose white- washed houscs, breaking through the surrounding foliage, add cheerfulncss to the scene; at the termina- tion of the tract the noble Severn is descried, in which the two islands, known as the Steep and Flat 1101/1208, are seen with a numerous fleet lying in the roads, and a forest of masts rising from the docks. On a fine clear morning, Cardiff appears to more advantage from this spot than elsewhere; the castle forms an interesting object, Llandaff also contributes to embellish the scene, the houses exalted above the cathedral, are not only observable, but form a pleasing contrast. its fcei RAIL r0 NEWPORT. 69 {Having given the route from Pontyp'ool Road Statien through l’eeitypoel, over the Yiamuzt at (,‘rumlin to hitrtiiyi', and from thence to (Qui'tliili, the tl'tn‘ellei' is referred to page #17,. to eentinue the jeurney from Pen-ty- pool Road through Newport to ("ardittj Soon after lt‘tt'dllg l’mtypocl lioad Station, on the Newport, Abergavenny and Hereford line, a junction with the Menniouthshire Railway and Canal Company’s line, which extends from Blaenavon through Pontypool to Newport, takes place, and the train proceeds on the latter line to Newport, but is only allowed to call at one of the Stations (l’ontncwydd). About a mile further on the line, Pontrizydymm Iran Wrorlt's and Chapel are seen on the left. Pontnezeydd Station is next reached, and within a few hundred yards of the station are the Iron “forks belonging to Conway James, Esq , backed by the village of Cines-y- Cefleg. A mile further pass Creme/rm Static” and Iron Her/rs on the right, and Llmztreclzra Grange, the resi- dence of Charles Prothero, Esq., may be observed on the top of a hill in the distance, on the left. After passing LZGNUZWZGNZ swam, you arrive on the banks of the Usk and reach Newport. NEWPORT. Distances (with the exception of London) by Turnpike Read. Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles London . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118 Cardiff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Chepstow . . . . . . . . . . . _ 16 Monmouth . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Caerleon . . . . .... . . . . . . 3 Pentypool . . . . . . . . . . .. 10 Caerphilly 12 Usk . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..11 Newport is a flourishing port and market town, and 70 nnwronrw-rnanrl. has rapidly risen into importance during the last half century. In lStél. the town ctmtaincd but “221 houses and 108? souls; in 1851 it had risen to 2008 houses, and 19,323 inhabitants; and the number of inhabitants at the present time cannot be far short of 25,000. This town, called by Uiraldus, fibres Barges, arose out of the declining greatness of Caerleon, and was cal- led by the “'elsh, Caste” ZWzrg/dd, or Newcastle. It is situated on the Usk, near its confluence with the Bristol Channel, and is navigable for the largest vessels. On the western or town side of the river, there are a great number of wharves and jetties, extending from near the bridge to a commodious fioating dock at Pilgwenlly, a distance of nearly two miles. The Fleet- ing J)OC/J was formed at a cost of about £200,000, raised by shares of £20 each and loans. It was opened on the 10th of October, 18112. The rapid advancement of this place from a mean and insignificcnt village to that of a populous commer- cial town, is attributable to the development of the in- exhaustible mineral wealth of the mountains adjacent to the town, aided by the facilities of transit by means of railways, instead of the slow and limited means of conveyance adopted sixty years ago, when mules were used to carry the coal and iron to the port. The formation of the MorzwzouZ/zs/zz're Canal in 1793, gave an impetus to trade, by offering an improved mode of transit for iron stone, iron, lime stone, timber, coal, 510., from Pontnewynydd, Pontypool, Cru'mlin, Risca, Nantyglo, Ebbw Vale, Sirhowy, and other iron works and quarries. This mode of transit, however, at the snwronr—cnknrrsrs’ mors. 71 present day, has been superseded by the more expedi- tious railroads, which new intersect the mountains in every directitm. Shipbuilding, brewing, tanning and other manufac- tures are carried on, there are several large foundries, and at the Des works the patent cut nails are manu- faetured. Cnknrrsrs’ RIOT.——Tl1€ town and neighbourhood ac- quired considerable notoriety from the assembling of a number of Chartists on the Hills, and their descent upon Newport on the 4th of November, 1889, headed by Mr. John Frost, who had been a magistrate for the borough, Armed with guns, pikes, bars of iron and other wea- pens, the band which numbered several thousand col- liers and miners, after congregating among the Hills during a most stormy and inclement night, marched in a dispirited and tired state into the town, and suddenly presented themselves in front of the “Testgate Hotel, where a company of the 45th regiment, under the com- mand of Lieut. Gray had been stationed to await their arrival. The chartists foolishly commenced an attack upon the inn, the soldiers opened fire upon them, and about 20 of the rioters were killed. Mr. Thos. Phillips, the mayor, whilst reading the riot act, was wounded in the wrist, by a shot, and Mr. Morgan, draper, and Mr. Thomas Walker, victualler, were severely hurt. John Frost fled at the commencement of the attack, but was soon afterwards captured, and with his compatriots, William J ones and Zephaniah Williams, were tried at Monmouth assizes for high treason, found guilty, and sentenced to be hung, drawn, and quartered, but the 7 2 Newman—RAILWAY STATIONS—CASTLE. sentence was afterwards commuted to transportation for life. In 1858, Frost was reprieved and returned to this country. Mr. Phillips, soon after the event, as a. reward for his bravery, received the order of knighthood. and M r. Morgan and Mrlvalker had pensions awarded to them. The Town Hall, used for magisterial business, county courts, and entertainments, was erected in 1842 ; the Exchange and Reading Room in 1844. The CATTLE Manner, a commodious inclosure, was erected in 1844. iveekly markets are held, and the place is also used for the annual exhibition of stock at Lord Tredegar’s show. THE RAILWAY STATIONS.——Th6 South Wales Station is a commodious, convenient, and well arranged stone- building in proximity to the principal street, and within five minutes walk of the King’s Head, vWestgate, Tre- degar Arms, and Bridge Commercial Inns. The New- port Abergarcmzy and IIcrc/orrl Company, and the 111022- mout/zsltz'ra Railway and Canal Company, make a mise- rable wooden building in Mill street, answer the pur- pose of a station for both these line. It is most discre- ditable to the companies, that they have allowed their customers to be so badly accommodated during several years. The wretched hovel called the ladies’ waiting room, is of very small dimensions, and devoid of every comfort, and the platform is bleak and ill-contrived. The I'Vestern VaZZoys Station is situated at theoi ther extremity of the town, in Dock street. THE CLSTLE.-——Th€ remains of this fortress stands on the banks of the Usk between the stone turnpike-road NEWPORT CASTLE 7 3 bridge, and the railway bridge. It appears to have been erected for the defence of the passage over the river. It is constructed with rubble, coigned with hewn stone. Towards the north, in the centre, is a square tower which formed the citadel. It was formerly flanked with small turrets, but is now covered with pantiles and used as a brewery. Beneath is a sally post, facing the river, having a pointed arch and grooves for a portcullis. Robert, Earl of Gloucester, natural son of Henry 1., ob- tained the lordship of Monmouth in right of his wife Maud, daughter of Robert Eitzhamon, and is supposed to have built this castle between 1130 and 1140. ‘Nil- liam their son, garrisoned the castle in 1171. In 1173, Henry II. had deprived Prince Jorworth ap Owen of a considerable portion of his possessions, but while Henry was engaged in the French war, the 'Welsh chieftain repossessed himself of it, and Henry on his return found him very formidable and proposed peace. For the sake of negociation he offer ed a safe passage to Jorwerth and his sons : but while his eldest son Owen ap Caradoc was on the road to meet his father, some soldiers from the garrison of Newport slew the young chieftain. YVhen the news reached the ears of J orwerth, he broke off the conference, and returned with his younger son Howell. Housed by this perfidious act, the Welsh ral- lied round his standard, and by fire and sword carried destruction upon the banks of the Severn and Wye, as far as Hereford and Gloucester. Robert, Earl of Gloucester, dying in 1173, without male issue, Richard de Clare, who married Robert’s daughter, beame possessor of the castle. On the death of their son Gilbert, in 1313, his J 74 NEWPORT CASTLE. great property was divided among his three sisters; Eleanor, the wife of Hugh le Despenser, the younger; Margaret, who married Hugh de Audley; and Eliza- beth, who married John de Burgh. Margaret obtained the castle and town of Newport, but was compelled to cede it to Hugh le Despenser, who procured from the king a charter of privileges for the burgesses and inha- bitants of Newport. On the fall of Despenser, it was restored to Hugh de Audley, and was conveyed by his only daughter to her husband ltalph, Earl of Statlbrd, who fought under the Black Prince, at Cressy. It con-- tinued in the possession of his family, until the execu- tion of his descendant Edward, third Duke of Bucking- ham, when the castle and lordship were seized by Henry VIII. The castle was afterwards sold to the Herbcrts of St. J ulians, and. formed part of the property of Lord Herbert of Cherbury. It was afterwards possessed by the Earl of Powis, and was sold to Charles Vann, Esq. of Lanwerne, and was afterwards disposed of to the Duke of Beaufort. Trix Fauna—This building was a religious house for VVhito Friars of the Carnielito order. It was pos- sessed by Dr. Anthony Hawkins, at which time its architecture was plainly indicated, but underwent great alterations. It was afterwards the residence of Thomas Prothero, Esop, and now belongs to and is occupied by Octavius Morgan, Esq. M. P., and under his direction it has been rebuilt, and presents a fine Gothic mansion. CORPORATION.-——Tl1€ town is governed by a Mayor, Aldermen and Councillors. NEWPORT—PUBLIC BUILDINGS. Gas “Tomas—In the year 1825, a company com- menced erecting works for the manufacture of gas, which have from time to time been extended to meet the demand. WATER \Vonits were erected in 1846, at an estimated expense of £20,000, in 2,000 shares at £10 each. THE UNION YVonKHousE was erected in 1837, and is situated within a few minutes walk of St. Wollos church. The site was presented to the Guardians of the Newport Poor Law Union, by the late Sir Charles Mor- gan, bart., of Tredegar Park. The BARRLCKS stand on the heights of Penylan, near to the town, and was built in 1845. CHCRCHES.——St. Welles Church on the summit of Stow Hill, commands a fine prospect. It was erected in the Anglo-Gaxon or Norman era, but since that period great additions and alterations have been made to the structure. It has a massive square tower. St. Paul’s church is situated in Commercial street, at the south entrance into the town. The interior is of a quadrangular shape without nave or aisles, and the roof is boarded and grained. Galleries are raised on each side, and it has a fine toned organ. Pi'llgwenllg/ Church was built by the Pastoral-aid Society, for the accommo- dation of the inhabitants in the neighbourhood of the Docks. St. iUary’s Church, near the bottom of Stow Hill, for Catholic Worship, was opened in November, 1840. The stained glass of the triple window, was pre- sented by l\lrs. William Jones, of Clytha House. THE CHAPILS are numerous, and include those for English and Welsh Independents, English and Welsh Baptists, Wesleyans, and Calvanistic Methodists, and 76 NEWPORT—PUBLIG BUILDINGS. there are Sabbath Schools in connexion with every place of worship. T HE CEMETERY is on the town side of StTVollos church. The necropolis is a handsome erection, with vaults be- neath. It was opened for burials in 1842. 1 he ground is nicely laid out and planted. THE BRIDGE is a handsome structure of stone with five arches; the centre arch has a span of 70 feet; the two adjoining ones 62 feet, and the remaining two 65 each. It was built by Mr. Edwards, son of the builder of Pontypridd bridge in Glamorganshire, before spoken of, at a cost of £10,165. THE Posr OFFICE is a fine building opposite the King’s Head Hotel, and is the head office of the district. RnsInENcEs—There are several mansions and villas in the neighbourhood, amongst which may be mentioned T redeem’ Paris, 3 miles, the seat of Lord Tredegar, Malpas Court, 15111., the residence of the Rev. Thomas Prothero, Llam‘amzam Aobcy, 3 miles; and St Julzon’s, now a farm house, besides a number of handsome mo- dern residences, built on land contiguous to the town at Maindee, which had been purchased by the Freehold Land Society. CONVE\’AN(‘ES.-—RUWNTZQJS.———SOHZ‘]2/ IVaZcs Line, to Chepstow, Gloucester, Cardifl', Neath, Swansea, Milford, Haverford- West, the. ; illomnoazfhshz're Railway, to Pontypool, Abersyehan and Blaenavon; W’esz‘mn Valleys Razéway to Risca, Ebbw Vale, Blaina, and Tredegar; :\ ewxlort and Hereford Rat/emu to Pontypool, Little Mill, Aber- gavenny, and Hereford; change carriages at Little Mill for Usk, Raglan and Monmouth. Steam lac/cuts to and from Bristol daily. IXNs.——King’s Head, IVestgate, Bridge and Tredegar Arms, (Commercial Inns.) “J KI CAERLEON—TIN worms. CAE R LEON. Is seated upon a slope rising from a deep bottom, surrounded by lofty verdant hills. It is at present an inconsiderable market town, with narrow and irregular streets, and very few good houses, the principal portion being in a dilapidated and ruinous condition, the flourishing town of Newport, which is only three miles distant, having completely robbed it of all its trade and enterprise, and it now stands but a shadow of its former magnificence and grandeur. There is very little trade done in the town, and most of the inhabitants depend for support upon the Caerleon forge and tin works, and the Pontheer tin works, carried on at a short distance from the town. i The market house has been pulled down, and there is no weekly market held. The Township of Caerleon in the year 1851, contained 288 houses and 1281 inhabitants. The annual value of property assessed to the county rate in 1855 was £8,440 The portion of the town situated on the opposite side of the river, under Christchurch hill, is termed Ultra Pontem. The church, a large old edifice of the Norman era, is dedicated to St Cadoc, and the living is in the gift of the Dean of Llandaff. A small Baptist chapel was erected here in 1764, and re-built in 1821. A Primitive Me- thodist chapel was erected in1844; and a small one for the Wesleyan Methodist persuasion, built in 1814, stands in Backhall street. 78 SCHOOL—BRIDGE—VESTIGES OF THE ANCTENT CITY. A Free School was founded here in the year 1724, by Charles Williams, a native of the town, in which 30 boys and 80 girls are educated and clothed. An unfortunate duel, in which his antagonist fell, obliged this gentleman to quit his country : he went to Smyrna, and having acquired an immense fortune by trade, re~ turned to England, and lived incognito in London, where he died at the advanced age of 87, leaving the bulk of his wealth to the family of Hanbury, and considerable legacies for the improvement of his native town. The old wooden bridge that formerly crossed the Usk at this place was remarkable for its construction, being similar to that erected by Caesar over the Rhine, as de- scribed by him in his Commentaries. A substantial stone bridge, erected in 1809,‘ crosses the river near the site of the old bridge, which was swept away by the current. A museum erected in 1848, stands at the top of High street, in which is deposited Roman antiquities, which have been dug up at different periods in the locality, and presented to the society. Yestiges still remain of the ancient city; one of the towers of its castle is left standing on the banks of the river, at the back of the Hanbury Arms Inn, and some of the old walls may be also traced near a lofty arti- ficial mound, called the castle tump. This mound is now the property of Mr. Jenkins, and is inclosed in his grounds. By the entrance of a lane called the Broadway, near the foot of the bridge, a footpath across a meadow leads to the Round Table field, where the most perfect part of KING Anrnnn’s ROUND TABLE. 79 the original walls is to be seen. Thewall is about thirteen feet in height and ten or twelve in breadth, inclosing a great portion of two fields. Inclosed within the wall is the campestrian amphitheatre, called “King Arthur’s Round Table,” which is an oval concavity in the ground with sloping banks, 75 yards by 64. Round this hollow, stone seats and many interesting relic have been disco- vered. The name of this town in the ancient British language according to Camden signifies “ Zha T own ofthe Legion.” it derived its name from having been the station of the “ Logic triecunda Britannia,” or “ Second British Le- gion.” It was once the metropolis of all ‘Vales, and called by the Romans “ Isca Silurum.” The Britons called it “ Caer Leon,” and Cater Leon ar Usk,” that is “ the City of the Legion on the riser Ush,” from the Legio Augusta or Second Augustan Legion, as appears evident from the immense quantities of Itoman bricks with the inscription “Lno II. ave,” which have been dug up within the walls. Caerleon was the capital of fifteen important station in Siluria, and the suburbs on both sides of the river, was supposed to have covered a tract of country nine miles in circumference, extending as far as Christchurch, on the 3., and St. Julian’s which is about midway between this place and Newport, on the W. In this city the I’raetor resided and had his Palatium or Domus Palatina—it was here the eagles were depo- sited—here the principal seats of justice were held and the imperial edicts promulgated. Caerleon seems to have been in almost a ruinous state 80 ANCIENT GRLNDEUB. O!‘ CAERLEON. as far back as the 14th century, for Giraldus remarks that “ many remains of its former magnificence are still visible : splendid palaces which once emulated with their gilded roots the grandeur of Rome, (for it was built by Roman princes) and adorned with stately edifices, a gigantic tower, numerous baths, ruins of a temple and a theatre, the walls of which are partly standing. Here we still see within and without the walls, subterraneous buildings, aqueducts, vaulted caverns, and stoves so ex- cellently contrived as to convey their heat through secret and imperceptible pores.” Statues, altars, columnsfriezes, sarcophagi, intaglios, fihulae, rings, seals, vases, brass and silver coins of Julia Augusta, Vespasian, Antonius Pius, Hadrian, Nerva, Claudius, Constantine, Constantius, Valentinian. Salustius, &c., fragments of lamps, and crosses, have been discovered from time to time, and carried off by collectors of antiquities. (,‘aerleon is said to have been one of the three great cities of Britain, and from the year 182 to 521, it was an archbispopric and had three churches, one of which was attached to a convent of religious virgins, and sacred to Julius the martyr. Caerleon is also celebrated as having been the court of Caractacus or (Iaradoc the illustrious prince, who ruled during the second Roman invasion under Claudius Cmsar an. 52. 1NNs.~_IIanburyArms; Bull. ‘Eijl‘i51€l)HITb.——On crossing the bridge, a steep road leads to Christchurch, which is about a mile dis- tant. From the church is a delightful prospect. In sr. Juuaiv’s—Ltiivrinmn ABBEY. 81 the Church is a sepulchral stone, to which the super- stitious attach a miraculous power. On this stone are carved two rude figures of a man and woman, standing, with folded arms, on each side of a cross. The statuary is the work of the 14th century. it was believed, that if sick children were laid upon this stone on Ascension Eve, they would instantaneously be cured of their ailments. fitgulian’g is about a mile from Newport, towards Caerleon, and near the banks of the Tsk. It was originally the residence of the famous Lord Herbert of Cherbury, who married the heiress of St. Julian’s, and daughter of Sir ‘William Herbert, and direct descendant from the Earl of Pembroke. He became possessed of this seat in 1598. Lord l'lerbert has been thus de- scribed :——“ The historical, the philosophical, the right whimsical peer : a man at once and together the nego- tiator, the scholar, statesman, soldier, the genius, and absurdity of his time and nation.” He was the most handsome man living in the days of Queen Elizabeth, and was especially favored by that monarch; was parti- cularly noticed by Anne of Austria, and was so regarded by Anne of Denmark, that it excited the jealousy of her husband, James the First. itlantaruam fitflaep lies between Newport and Pontypool, about three miles from the former town. It was founded for the monks of the Cistercian order, with an annual revenue of £72 3s. 2d. All that‘ remain of the original buildings are the stone cells (converted into" stables), the garden walls, and the‘ gateway, with "at"? K 8a.? . _ 'rnisnneaa BARK. noble arch in the pointed style. Within is a perch, on which is a shield in stone, bearing the arms of the Morgan family in nine quarterings, with the date 1588. The Abbey came into the possession of John Morgan, Esquire, in the reign of Elizabeth, and, out of the old pile, Mr. Morgan built the present edifice. El’cfltgat @3311: —--'l his mansion is situated about three miles from Newport, on the left side of the road to Cardiff, and has been for generations the residence of the Morgan family, one of the most ancient families in Wales, whose history has been handed down to us by the ancient bards, and from which it is shown, that the family descended from Hydivor Yawr (x Jadifor the Great), Lord of Blaen Cych, paternally descended from Bely the Great, King of Britain, married to Eleni daughter of Llewellyn Yawr (Llewellyn the Great). The property came into possession of Sir Charles Gould Morgan, in the right of his wife, Jane, sole heiress of John Morgan, Esq. The present mansion was erected in the reign of Charles II. The Oal; wBoar-‘n, so called, from being floored and wainscotted with planks cut from a single oak tree, is a fine apartment. It is forty; two feet in length, and twenty-seven feet in breadth. The park, which extends to Bassaleg village, is well stocked with deer, and beautifully studded with groups of chestnut and fine oak trees. Sir Charles Morgan, father to Lord Tredegar, the present proprietor, estab- lished the annual Tredegar ‘Cattle Show, which has been kept up with spirit and liberality to the present time. A bronze statue, to his memory, was erected in Newport, a few years since. JOURNEY "BY RAIL FROM NEWPORT T0 CARDIFF. l u 1 _ .% ._.~O_,M,‘_ .._.. .___.n g. ON THE LEFT FROM g NEWPORT. i Newport Docks. 12 NEW’PORT. Tunnel under St. \Voollos church Usk Light-house. Bridge across Ebbw River. St. Brides Church. \Ventlooge Level 6% MARsHrIELn 5%,’ Station. Peterstone Church, \Ventlooge Level on the coast. a. fertile plain The coast for many miles is protected] Nfswvoii'r 83 ON THE RIGHT PROM NEW'POBT. reclaimed from the sea, extend- The Gaer. Bassaleg village. Tredegar Park. Hamlet of Duffryn. Coedkernew. Marshfield. Saint Mellons. by sea walls and ing from the earthen dykes. Rumney River to the Usk. Bridge across the Rumney. River Rumney, which divides Monmouthshire from Glamor- , ganshire. Roath Court. East Bute Docks. ‘ Cemetery. Bute Docks. Newtown. Adamsdown. Glamorgan canal. CARDIFF. 12 Cardiff Gaol. THE RAIL from Newport to Cardiff passes over Wank Zocge Level, With Tredegar Park, Castletown, Marskfield, and St. llelloas on the right, and the churches of St. Brides and Peterstona are also Within the level, on the left. At about eight miles distance from Newport, the line crosses the river Rummy, which stream forms the boundary of Monmouthshire, and you enter 11* 8st eiancncxivinnmcxanrrr. tt’lumngmntia. This county is called “The Garden of South “Tales,” although the title is perhaps more appropriate to Mon- mouthshire. It is about forty-eight miles long from east to west, and about twenty-seven miles in breadth troni north to south, and embraces 547, 491 statute acres. the mountainous pars on the north are bleak and barren, _~the southern parts are temperate and fruittul, but the land near the coast is, for many miles, covered with sand-banks, and vegetation is bare. The county em- braces a great portion ot the mineral valley of South ‘Vales. and the population has increased in greater ratio, during ‘he last ‘fifteen years, than any county in England. In 18%)1, it reckoned only 70,568 persons. At the census of 1851, it numbered 231,819. ‘ CARDIFF. Distances (with the exception of London) by Turnpike Reads :— nIsraNT FROM. MiLns. DISTANT FROM. MILES. Bridgend . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Llantrissent . . . . . . . . 10¢;- Cowbridge . . . . . . . . . 10 Merthyl‘ . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Caerphilly . . . . . . . . . . Newport . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Castell Coch . . . . . . . . 5i Newbridge . . . . . . . . . . 12 London . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 I’cnnarth Point _ _ , . , . 4 Llandafi' . . . . . . . . . . . . 2% Tfifii’s ‘Tell . . . . . . . . . . 6% ‘ CARDIFF was originals‘ known by INC name of Rimmstabfas- Osttam; and on the Romans invading it, cinnirr. 5; Aulus Didius, their commander, who succeeded Ostorius in command of the legions of Britain, raised a fort and garrisoned it to keep the Silures in awe, and in conse- quence of which the Cambro Britons gave it the name of Caer-d'z'rlzi. It afterwards took its name from its situ- ation on the Thy/fa or Tar, and was called Crier-(inf, or Caer-dzjf, from whence originated Cardiff. The Town is very ancient, and has undoubtedly been of great importance to several monarchies, as its castles, moat, and ramparts fully evince, and in former times the Town was encompassed by a stone wall having five entrance gates. Mr. Donovon, in his descriptive excursions through South ‘Vales, in 1804, speaks of the remains of a men- astery, thus :— As we advanced close to the town of Cardiff, an aged ruin of Monastic character occurred to view upon the right. This stands contiguous to the high road, behind a cluster of houses that form one part of the outskirts of the place. Much of this edifice, which appears never to have been very large, is destroyed, one side of the shell alone remaining; but even that exhibits, with tolerable fidelity, the style of architecture which seems to have prevailed throughout the whole fabric.-~I apprehend this to be the ruin described by recent tourists as the fragment of a religious house established here by one of the ancient lords of Cardiff, for the reception of a company of white, or Cistertian friars; an idea that may not be perfectly correct, since the authority of an early Writer might be adduced to prove, (were it of any moment), that this house belonged to the grey, and not the white friars-Thc passage alluded to reads thus ; ‘ Porte Crockerton fiat est, so calluid of the suburbs that joynith hard to it.’ — ‘The biggest Suberbg of the town is called Crockerton, and there was a house'of gray friars t’ ~86 cranirr. “ The fortifications on the east side of Cardiff town were once to all appearance considerable. This conclusion, we are strongly inclined to allow, after a very cursory view of that portion of the wall which is still standing ; it is of great extent, and remarkable for its thickness and substantial masonry. The meat by which this wall was further strengthened, having been converted into a navigable canal, the original lineaments of this defence are oblit- erated, or at least cannot easily be perceived. A short, though not unpleasant walk, presents itself upon the banks of this canal ; one point of view we thought rather interesting; here the waters of the canal glide gently beneath the umbrageous shadow of the half-delapidated wall, reflecting upon their glassy surface the mouldering battlements, finely overhung with trees of ivy. F or the ZlfiCOlllfIlOdiltlOIl of the foot-passenger. a kind of rustic bridge (a stout plank with a few hand-rails) is suspended a considerably height above the water, between the wall and the bank directly opposite.” Cardiff is a borough and market Town, in the parishes of St. John and St. Mary, hundred of Kibbor, distant about 160 miles from London, and is the capital of Gla- morganshire. The stranger on entering the Town will be agreeably surprised at its interesting appearance—it combines much that is ancient and venerable, with indications of a high degree of commercial prosperity and modern re- finement. The streets are regular, generally well paved and well lighted with gas. The admirers of art may find ample materials for contemplation in some of the public buildings, which evince judgment and taste: the new Town Hall in Saint Mary’s street, presents a noble and elaborate front, and the architecture of St. Jblm’s Glam-eh, maybe justly admired. (manna ensue. - 8d" The liberality and intelligence of the inhabitants are pleasingly manifested by the support which is given to charitable, literary, harmonic and scientific institutions. ' The extension and improvement of the town have been greatly promoted of late years. Not many years ago it was a small, ill built \Velsh town. Its rise may principally be attributed to the enterprising spirit of the late much lamented Marquis of Bute. who at his sole expense commenced and completed the docks which bear his name. The, force of example is strikingly manifested here; the spirit of the noble Marquis has been caught by the people, and everything wears a cheerful air. The census returns will perhaps give the best idea of the commercial prosperity of the town. In 1801 the population was about 2,000— in 1881, 6,187,-—in 1841, 10,079; and in 1851 above 17,000, about nine times the number it contained sixty years ago. Since the opening of the South Wales Railway the influx of strangers and visitors during the summer months is very great. Besides the attractions which the town itself atliords in its rising commercial importance and its venerable remains of ancient power and splendour, it is visited, and must continue to be so, by numerous parties of tourists, on account of its vicinity to the Cathe- dral of Llandaif and castle of Caerphilly, both ranking among the most celebrated specimens of ancient archi- tecture in the kingdom. CARDIFF CASTLE—Th8 founding of this castle is ascribed by parties to diti‘erent dates ;. some consider it 88 (A nnrrr cksrrn. to have been erected about the year 1080, by .Iestyn ap Gurgan, Lord of Glarnorgan; others assert that it was rebuilt as a Norman fortress, by "tobert, Earl of Glou- cester, in the reign of Henry I.; and that in 1101, When ‘the Montgomery family was in rebellion, headed by the Earls of Shrewsbury and Pembroke, the territory of Cardiff was given to Cadwgan, but subject to llobert de Belmarsh, Bishop of London, who was \Varden of the Nlarches. In 1110, Robert Eitzhamon, after con- quering Glamorganshire, parcellcd out the county be- tween his twelve Norman knights, as a reward for thei services, but rtserved Carditf to himself; the castle he enlarged, and fortified it for his residence, and holding his courts of justice. It was shortly afterwards sur- prised by a Briton, named Ivor Bach, who dwelt in the mountains, and who privately marched against it with his party, in the night, and carried off the Earl of Gloucester (grandson to Eitzhamon), with his wife and son, and detained them until he received satisfaction for injuries he had sustained. In 1181, it was taken by Llewellyn’s forces, and in 1288, by the Earl of Pem— broke, for Henry III. If dependence can be placed on the Liber Llandevensis in Llandaff Cathedral, the town must have been founded long before the date assigned to the castle, as it is there set down, that Meurick, King of Glamorgan (the father of the famous Arthur) was a native of Carditf. In this castle, it is said, Robert Curthose, Duke of Normandy, eldest son of the Conqueror, was confined for twenty-six years, by order of his brothers, \Villiam Rufus and Henry I. Owen Glendower took the castle" and destroyed the town. cinnrrr. 89 In 1648, being garrisoned in favor of Charles I, it was said to have been bcseigcd in person by Oliver Cromwell. The bombardment was kept up with vigor for three days, and possession was at length obtained through the treachery of a dcscrtcr; and Cromwell, with his usual sternness and decision, after he had taken the castle, on the rascal applying for his reward, ordered him to be immediately executed as a warning to his own troops. The subterranean passage, by which entrance into the castle was effected, went under the Tatf, and in about the year 1800, when the proprietor of the “ Cardiff Arms” was enlarging a celler, the workmen fell into what was supposed to be a part of it. The Marquis of Bute is the present proprietor of this structure. The great body of the edifice was modernized by the late Marquis, who built a castellated mansion on the western side. He died suddenly, in 1848, and the Marchioness died in December, 1859. The mansion is still the country residence of the young Marquis of Bute, Earl \Vindsor, Baron Cardiff, &c., who was born the 12th of September, 184']. The entrance to the castle is by a gateway in imme- diate connexion with the principal streets of the town. Access is liberally granted to the residents of Cardiff, and to respectable strangers. The rampart which surrounds the castle has been laid down with turf and tastefully planted with shrubs. A terrace walk leads round within the walls, which com- mands extensive views of the surrounding country. A considerable portion of the octagonal Keep now stands at a short distance from the mansion, on an L '90 CARDIFF CASTLE. earthen mound of considerable elevation, as a solitary memorial of former strength and grandeur, and is care- fully preserved from further delapidation. ‘On the left of the entrance is a high octagonal tower, which has recently been rebuilt. In the dungeon of this tower, Robert, Duke of Normandy, is said to have been confined, after having been eprived of his sight and inheritance, by his inhuman younger brother, Henry I. It goes by the name of Robert/ls jbZW'i’. Every degree of severity, in addition to imprisonment, is said to have been inflcted upon him, and in a room barely fifteen feet square, nearly ui'nlerground, and with only a small crevice near the roof for air and light, he had to endure the long term cf twenty-six years’ im- prisonment. 1t is also called the BZac]; Zourer, a name more consonant With the purposes to which it was appropriated. Time can never Wear away this stain on Henry’s character, and could the ghost of the unt'ortin nate Robert revisit the earth, he like Hamlet, could “ A tale unfold, \vhose lightest Word \Vould harrow up the soul.” Adjoining this tower Was the guard room, and above were the apartments for attendants, store rooms and ob- servations ; from this tower to the keep on the mound was a strong and thick Wall, which, on being pulled down, Was discovered to have a secret passage along the middle of it, with flood hatches and drop gates; it is Supposed to have been a Way for sallying, or procuring forage. Giraldus visited Cardiff in 1188; at that time, the castle Was in perfect order, and it elicited from him the CARDIFF CASTLE. 91 epithet of a “ noble castle.” The castle was surrounded with high walls; it was guarded by one hundred and twenty soldiers, a numerous body of archers, and a strong watch; and the town also contained many sti- pendiary soldiers. In 1583, Henry VIII appointed the accomplished scholar, John LClZtlItl, his antiquary : he was instructed to search after England’s antiquities, and peruse the libraries of all cathedrals, colleges, abbeys, and other places, where records and secrets of antiquity were deposited. Ilis description of Cardiff and its castle ran thus :— “ The town of Cairtaphe is the principale of al Glamorganshire, is well waullid, and is by estimation a mile in cumpace. In the waullc be five gates. First, lh'irtllongcy, in the Englisch, the ship-gate ; then I’ort Douro, or the water-gate, by southe-weste ; the Port Miskin, by northc-weste, so callid bycause it ledith the way into the lordship of Miskin; then Port Singhenith, flat northe, so caullid bycause that nicnne pass by it into Sing-henith ; then Port Cockerton, fiat est, so caullid of the suburb that oynith hard by it.” The foregoing description of the town and castle was written about the year 1540. In 1797, the habitable part of the castle, a fine suite of apartments in an ancient style of grandeur, iormin g the western wing of the building was repaired, and extensive alterations made ; but the death of the proprietor, Lord Mount Stuart, M.P., arrested for a while the progress of the alteration. From the keep a charming V16‘W of the surrounding country may be obtained. To the northward can be recognized, at the distance of four or five miles, the old 4' L" 92 CARDIFF—ITS TRADE AND PROGRESS. Castle Coch or Red Castle, rising under the brow of a wide sweeping hill, amidst a cluster of trees. TRADE AND PRoenEss—The prosperity of this town may be entirely attributed to its geological site and position, being backed by a district with an inexhausti- ble supply of minerals, more valuable than the mines of Potisi—more'preeious than gold. Extensive iron works, giving employment and support. to many thousands, have been erected, and spots seldom trodden are new covered with populous towns and villages, which have sprung up round the extensive ranges of machinery, furnaces and forges. Judging from what has already taken place, and knowing the vast mineral resources this district pos- sesses, we may reasonably anticipate a glorious future, and safely predict to Cardiff still further advancement in its enterprising career. During the last twenty-five years its export trade has enormously increased. The docks present forests of masts, and flags of nearly every civilized nation may be seen waving from them. Under the genial sway of commerce, men of all countries may here be found to! gether, in search of the products of the rich mines of the Cambrian hills. Thirty years ago, the Canal Dock was sufficient of its export trade; about twenty years since, the Bute Dock was made; the two docks were found to be insulficient, and another, more capaeious than either Of them (the East Bute Dock), was opened in 1858. The limits of the port of Cardiff are—from the river Rumney, on the east, to Nash point, on the west. The anchorage off Penarth Head is excellent. The roar or cnnmrr. 93 Cardiff and Penarth Flats and east and west mud are composed of a thick stratum of soft alluvial clay and mud, on which the largest vessels, loaded, may lie aground with perfect safety. Pennarth Head, being about two hundred feet above high water mark, not only affords perfect shelter from the boisterous west wind, but generally, as a place of shelter and anchorage, offers a desideratum to owners of large and valuable vessels who may send them to this port. By means of the Glamorgan Canal, the extensive Docks, the Taff Vale Railway and the South ‘Vales Railway, this port has become the great outlet for the vast mining districts, and the iron and tin works of the eastern part of Glamorganshire, and possesses facilities for communication with all parts of the kingdom. Besides the extensive exports of iron, tin, coal, and other minerals, Cardiff carries on a considerable trade with Bristol, Bridgewater, Gloucester, and other ports, in agricultural produce. ' THE GLAMOBGANSHIRE CANAL was opened in the year 1794, and was the connecting link between the great iron works at and near llforthyr and Cardiff. It com- mences at the Sea Lock, and passes the east entrance by the old gateway, by means of a tunnel : leaves Llandaff on the west, and pursues its course among the moun- tains, sometimes on one side of the Tatf, and sometimes on the other. After passing Newbridge (Pont-y-pridd), a branch turns to the left to the iron works at Aberdare. The fall from Merthyr Tydvil to Cardiff is upwards of six hundred and eleven feet, requiring forty locks, and as many bridges, in the distance of twenty-six miles. 94 GLAMORGANSHIRE CANAL.--~BUTE DUCKS. The expenses attending the construction of this canal exceeded £50, 000, the greater part of which was defrayed by the ironmasters of Merthyr and Aberdare, whose immediate interest this noble undertaking was so pecu- liarly calculated to advance. A commodious range of sheds and buildings was afterwards erected on the wharf, on the southern side of Cardiff, for the reception of the iron bars and rails which were brought down, and many thousand tons of iron, cast into pigs and bars of various dimensions, are lying at all times on the quay for exportation. THE Burn Doom—The extension and improvement of the town was much promoted by the construction of the Bute Docks, accomplished by the late Marquis of Bute, at a cost of £800,000. The works were commenced with the construction of a feeder from the river Tart, in 1839 ; the first stone of the docks was laid on the 16th of March, 1887, and the work ‘was completed and opened on the 9th of October, 1889. Cnunonns AND CHArELs—There are two churches; one dedicated to 8t. John and the other to St. Mary. There are also chapels belonging to the Welsh and English Baptists, Presbyterians, Independents, TWesleyan 'Methodists, Catholics, and other denominations of Chris- ‘dams, and, as usual in \Vales, the dissenters far exceed the episcopalian part of the community. ST. JoHN’s CnUnerL—This church has been altered at various periods. It is a finely proportioned edifice, with a noble quadrangular tower, surmounted by pierced battlements, and four open Gothic pinnacles. It is the CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 95 finest in ‘Wales, except that of ‘Wrexham, in Denbigh— shire. It reminds one of the Somersetshire towers, in the loftiness of its proportions, and in the elegance of its battlements and airy pinnacles. This tower forms a conspicuous feature in the distant views. The chief features worthy of notice in the interior are —the decorated west window, a statue of Edward III, and a monument of Sir TWilliam Herbert and Sir John Herbert, under a canopy of white marble, sup- ported by four pillars. In 1851, the interior of the church underwent consi- derable repairs, and was re-pewed. It is now capable of accommodating one thousand persons. The belfry contains eight fine toned bells, and chimes are played every three hours. The living is in the patronage of the Dean and Chapter of Gloucester, and is of the value of £260, with a glebe house. SI. Manr’s Cannon was formerly situated near the bottom of St. Mary’s-street, on the right hand to the approach to the South \Vales Railway Station. It was a large cruciform building, and was undermined by the washing of the Taff in the year 1607, and fell, when the living was united with St. J ohn’s. Rows of houses, comprising what is called Temper- ance Town, were built in 1858, on the site of St. Mary’s church. The present church is a modern erection, near the head of the Bute Docks, opened in 1842, and has two towers, in the Norman style of architecture. The ground on which it stands was given by the Marquis of Bute. 96 CHAPELS.—-SCHOOLS.—I’00R HOUSE. THE WESLEYAN Mnrnonrsr CHAPEL is a commodious, handsome, and richly decorated building. It was erected in 1850, in Charles-street, and is a great orna- ment to this rapidly improving part of the town. Services, twice on Sundays, and on Monday evenings at Seven. THE Roman CATHOLIC CHAPEL is in the Anglo-Norman style, well built, of graceful appearance and large dimen- sions. It was erected in 1842, and contains a good organ. It is situated in Whitmore-lane. Other chapels are distributed throughout the town. THE IRON CHAPEL, Bute Docks, was opened on the 16th of August, 1851, for the use of seamen. It was erected at the expense of the Marquis of Bute, at a cost of £200. It is fifty feet long and twenty feet wide. Service, twice on Sundays. Senoora—There are some very respectable and well conducted day and boarding Schools in the town, besides Sunday Schools, the Free School, the British School, St. Mary’s National School, the Roman Catholic School, the Wesleyan Day School, and the Infant School. THE UNION Peon House is situated on the side of the road to Cowbridge, built in 1885, at an expense of £7,500. Every attention is paid to the inmates, who average 240. There is a small B'Iospital attached. The Guardians meet every Saturday. THE INFIBMARY was erected in 1846, at the sole expense of Daniel Jones, Esq., of Beaupré, at a cost of £4000. It is situated on the coach road to Newport. The Staff consists of a chairman, treasurer, physician, consulting surgeon, two surgeons in ordinary, and a matron. CARDIFF—PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 97 THE CEMETERY is situated near the County Gaol. It contains a chapel for sepulchral purposes, and was built at the sole expense of the late Marquis of Bute, in 1849. THE PoLIeE STATION, a substantial old building, is situated in St. Mary’s-street. THE SAyInes’ BANK, which has been established for many years, stands in Duke-street. THE Mannn'r HoUsE is commodious, and well fitted up. The principal entrance is from St. Mary’s-street, nearly opposite the Town Hall. It was built by the Corporation in 1835, at a cost of £5,700. The'markct days are ‘Vednesdays and Saturdays. Literary and Scientific Institutions are established in the town, the Assizes and Quarter Sessions for the county are held here, and all prisoners belonging to the eastern part of the county are sent to Cardiff Gaol. T HE (her. was erected in 1831, and the building cost about £ 10,000. It comprises fifty-three cells, twelve wards, fourteen day and work rooms, three infirmaries, and two receiving cells, with twelve airing courts. THE CORPORATION consists of a Mayor, six Aldermen, and eighteen Councilmen, and the town is divided into two wards. Three councillors in each ward go out of otfice annually, but are eligible for re-election. To qualify persons to Vote, their names must have been on the parish rate book for three years. The earliest charter in the possession of the Corporation is dated 12 Edward Ill, an. 1338; but the governing charters prior to the passing of the Municipal Reform Act, 1835, M 98 CARDIFF—TOWN HALL—HOTELS. were of 42 Eliz,. an. 1600, and of 6 James I, an. 1608. THE New Town HALL is a very handsome structure, erected in 1856, in St. Mary’s-street. The interior is fitted up with every convenience for transacting the criminal and law business of the eastern division of the county; and has a handsome Assembly and Reading Room. The Old Town Hall, which stood in the centre of High—street, was pulled down in 1860, THE BRIDGE which crosses the Tait was completed in 1794, and is a fine stone structure. HoTELs, Era—Cardiff can boast of as good inns as any town in South “Tales. The “ Cardiff Arms” (Family and Commer— cial Hotel), conducted by Mrs. \Voods, and the “ Angel,” by Mr. Cousins, both situated in a convenient part of the town for business, are admirably conducted, and the “Queen’s” Hotel, situated in St. Mary’s-street, is in a pleasant situation, and provided with every accommodation. There are a num- ber of other good commercial inns in the town. CONVEYANCFS.~—T0f Vale Railway~$0uth Wrales Railway—— New Rhymneg/ Railway, Omnibuses and Flys to the Docks and Railway Stations from the Cardiif Arms, Angel, and Queen's Hotels. Steam Packets to Bristol. NEwsrAI’ERS.~——Mcrthyr Guardian and Cara'zfl' Times‘. ROATH. The village of Roath or Rh'ath adjoins Cardiff on the east side. Out of the ruins of this ancient place and Roman Station, Cardiff was formed into a principal town, by J estyn ap Gwrgan, in 1080. PENARTH POINT. A new road was made in 1.851, across Cardiff marshes to Landough, Leckwith, Penarth, Sully, &c., which considerably shortened the distance from Carditt' to PENARTH—LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL. 99 those places. Penarth Point is distant about four miles from Cardiff, and is a place of frequent resort for the inhabitants of Cardiff during the summer and autumn seasons. In 1851 it contained only twenty-four houses, and 105 inhabitants. Since that year the place has much improved; a number of handsome villas and mansions have been erected, and the population has vastly increased. There are also some good inns and lodging houses. Penarth Point is a high headland, composed of stone and marl, with stratas of alabaster. The Roads afford a safe harbour for vessels when wind bound. LLANDAFF. Llandatf, though formerly a city, is new but a small re tired village, possessing some quaint old houses. It is situated about two miles distant from Cardiff, and may be reached by a footpath across the fields, or by the coach road. The former is the most pleasant way in fine dry weather, and is somewhat shorter in distance. Immediately after crossing the bridge, turn into the fields on your right, and a well beaten track will guide you to the “ City of Llandaff.” If you prefer the high road, after crossing the bridge, continue your course towards Cowbridge, until a road diverges to the right, along which thevway to Llandaff lies. The village, for such it must now be called, stands on a gentle eminence. The houses are neat, and have a general air of comfort about them. ‘ ZLIanIJafi @Elfljwl‘al, or the “ Church upon Tafi‘," for from that the name of Llandaff is derived, stands in a retired hollow, not far from the bank of tgg river’. M“ 1 00 LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL. partly concealed by trees. There is a majestic, solemn, and impressive aspect in the dilapidated pile, and this venerable relic of fine architectural beauty and excel- lence, looks down, as it were, with conscious dignity upon the gazer. The architecture of this ancient building is partly Saxon and partly Gothic, with an occasional mixture of Norman. The western entrance is remarkably handsome, and ornamented with fine lancct windows. On the north side is a rich Saxon doorway, and on the south is another doorway, less ornamental, of the most exquisite existing examples of Roman work. At the western entrance were formerly two fine square towers ; the one ' on the northern side alone remains. It was completed by Jasper, Duke of Bedford, AD. 1485, and profusely enriched with the best sculpture of the age. The cor- responding tower, on the opposite side of the entrance, is completely demolished. The window over the western entrance is of fine workmanship, and above it is the statue of Henry I., and another not far distant is said to be that of Dubri— cius. The length of the cathedral from east to west is nearly 270 feet; there are no transepts, and the breadth of the nave with its aisles is 65 feet. The dimensions of the eastern chapel are 58 by 25 feet, and the height from the floor to the centre of the roof 119 feet. In the west end of the north aisle are several ancient and curious monuments, chiefly of bishops; a remarkable effigy, in a recumbent position, of William de Braose, who died in 1287, is one of the most prominent; two effigies upon a raised pedestal, record the memories of LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL. 101 St. Dubricius and Bishop Brumfield ; in a gothic niche is the effigy of Bishop Davies, who was the founder of a library here ; and beyond is the figure of an emaciated female in a winding sheet, designed to perpetuate the memory of an unfortunate person who fell a victim to disappointed love; an armed knight, with his head resting upon his helmet, is represented in ‘alabaster, commemorating Christopher Matthews, who was 6 feet 2 inches in height, and who fell in the civil wars, after distinguishing himself by several valorous acts; in an opposite recess are two figures, supposed to be represen- tations of David Matthews and his wife; and in an adjoining part of the building is an efiigy of John, Bishop of Monmouth, nominated to the See in 12911. There are also monuments to Christiana Audley, who made bequests to the poor of Llandaff, ltoath, and \Vhitchurch, and Bishop Pascal, who died 1361, at his episcopal palace at Bishton. It is generally supposed that the principal monu- ments were destroyed at the same time as the Bishop’s palace, by Owen Glendower, but that rests merely on tradition; although there is little doubt but that he considerably injured the bishop’s residence, and it was not afterwards repaired, for we hear of the next bishop having his palace at Matherne, near Chepstow. Llandaff is recorded to be the oldest episcopal see in the kingdom. From the first introduction of christianity into Britain, a church is said to have existed here, but Llandaff did not rise to the jurisdiction of a bishopric until the beginning of the fifth century, when Myric, King of Glamorgan and Siluria, founded it, and c11~ 102 LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL. dowcd it with the lands between the rivers Taff and Elwy. The celebrated Dyfrig or Dubricius presided here in 486, and was consecrated the first bishop, owing to his zeal in opposing the Pelagian heresy, and was raised to the Archbishopric of Caerleon or Primacy of vWales : he is reported to have lived to a great age, to have been bishop for, eighty years, and to have died Nov. 14, 522. He was succeeded by Teleian or Teilo, and Oudoceus, who were also canoniscd. At the end of the seventh century, being liberally endowed, it was one of the wealthiest churches in Christendom, but it suffered great depredations, and was destroyed at the Norman conquest. In 1108, Bishop Urban (the 80th bishop of the see) found the church in ruins, and the revenues confiscated, but, by great efforts, he obtained large sums, and, in the year 1120, commenced the present cathedral, but the various styles of architecture evince that it was a long time in progress, and that a great number of years must have elapsed before the nave and eastern chapel were appended: he died on a journey to Home, in 1133. John de Monmouth was appointed bishop in 1296, and is supposed to have made considerable altera- tions in the Church; and Bishop Marshall, in 1480, added a new altar-piece, and otherwise embellished it. The pinnacles and the south tower were considerably injured by the great storm in 1708. Browne \li'illis says: “The glorious structure has fallen into a most deplorable state of decay within the last few years.” The decayed tower afterwards fell, and towards the middle of the 18th century (in 1751), the chapter LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL. 103 obtained funds to the amount of £7,000, which was expended in pulling down and easing the ancient struc- ture. An unsightly elevation was raised in the centre of this beautiful Gothic edifice, the nave was left roofless, and St. Mary’s Chapel abandoned, remaining in this state of desolation until the year 1889, when the very Rev. TVilliam Bruce Knight, the late Dean, by an eloquent appeal to the clergy, obtained a sufiieient sum to enable the chapter to commence the work of restoration. The restoration of the cathedral is now in progress. The Lady Chapel has been restored at an expense of £1,165 12s; the open work parapets at the end of the south aisle have been restored; a fine and very interesting arch of Bishop Urban’s work has been opened out; a beautiful screen of Bishop Marshall’s work; a sepulchral recess, with the capitals of the side shafts in the style of 1200, and many other architectural beauties have been again exposed. During the civil wars, the library of the cathedral (which contained some most valuable manuscripts) was removed for security to Cardiff Castle, where it was burnt, with a large heap of prayer books, by Cromwell’s supporters. Near the cathedral stood the bishop’s palace; the gate house belonging to it, and a ruined tower, in which formerly hung the great bell called “ Peter,” are the sole remains. The bell is new in Exeter. Around Cardiff the soil is varied, and produces a great diversity of plants, among which may be enume- rated Alopcczmrs buZboszr-s, Ant/Willis Valncrcw'ia, All/{um 104 LLANDAFF—nowELL’s CHARITY. arsz'nam, Adey'antum Capz'ZZus Vemm's, Armam'a peploz'des, Bate maritime, Butomus ambellatus, CizZom perfolz'azfa, Carer arena/rm Campmzztla izcderaaea, Grit/imam mari- tz'mam, Drosem r0 tundsfolz'a, Erz'ophorum angustifole'am, Erodz'um cinema/alum, Erica Tez‘mlz'x, Eel/mam oulgare, Glam: maritime, Geniz'ana Amarclla, Gallium serum, Iledysarum Onobryolzz's, Hyperz'cam elodes, Hydrockars's Horses-mum, HeZz'antkem-um eulgare, Iris fcetz'dz‘sséma, Inala Helem'zmz, Lat/zyras Ali/19.90? z‘a, Latin/rue sylaesz‘rz's, Lima/Sella agaatz'ca, Lathrcea sgaamarfa, Lt'nam usz'tetz's- gamma, Lyzf/mmz Salz'cart'a, Mercurt'ah's armae, Nardas stricter, Ophrys bz'folz'a, Oplzrg/s apq'fera, Pazom'a OOWIZZUZG, Statics A/rmerz'a, Stazfz'ce Lz'moozz'um, Saponerz'a oficinaizs, Sagz'zfz‘iarza Sagz'z‘tzfolt'a, Same/Mus Ebulas, Trolle'us Euro- pwas, Viola jarllztstrfs. HowELL’s ScHoon—Thomas Howell, a native of Monmouthshire, by his will, dated in 1540, during his residence at Seville, bequeathed 12,000 ducats, to be invested in land, the revenue from which was to be disposed among four maidens, being orphans, next of his kin and blood, on their marriage; but if they could not be found, then to be given to other four orphan maidens, every year, as their marriage portions. Of the above sum, 8,720 ducats were delivered to the Master and \Vardens of Drapers’ Hall, London, to carry out the Testator’s intents. The family of Thomas Howell was of Monmouthshirc. In 1598, the chief descendants of the Howell family were to be found in Monmouthshire, and the name is still frequent in that county. The Company were charged in 1838 with a misappropriation of the rents, and by the Decree of LLANnArE—HowELL’s CHARITY. 105 Lord Langdale, Master of the Rolls, dated April 29, 1845, they were declared to have misappropriated them. They claimed to apply as they should think fit, nearly the whole income of the Charity, and their claim was set aside. The Decree of April 29, 1845, declared that the whole funds in the hands of the Defendants, and the rents of the lands purchased under the will of Thomas Howells were applicable to the charitable purposes of the will. It was ordered, among other things, that the Master should settle a scheme for the future adminis- tration of the Charity and the future application of the income, and he was to state, having regard to the charitable objects contemplated by the Testator, whether it would be fit and proper any and what extension of charitable objects and uses should be made of the said Charity, so as to embrace other objects than those immediately contemplated by the Testator; also, to inquire if it were necessary an Act of Parliament should be obtained to carry into effect such scheme as he might approve of, and to settle the Draft of a Bill for an Act of Parliament to extend the scheme, and to enable the Defendants to purchase such part of the Charity Estates whereon the Hall and Buildings occupied by them were built, and the gardens thereto attached, discharged of the Charitable Trusts to which they were subject, and for the investment and disposition of the purchase- money. The Master reported, February 12, 1846, that it was most beneficial the Hall and Gardens should be sold, subject to a lease at a ground rent of £120 a year. By N 106 LLANDAFF—HOWELL’S CHARITY. an Order of March 10, 1846, the Master was directed to approve of such lease, and on the 16th of April, 1846, a Lease was made by the Drapers’ Company to the Trustees nominated by and on their behalf, of the Hall, 820., for twenty-eight years, from the 25th of December, 1848, at a rent of £120 a year. Another Order was made by the Master of the Bells, June 2, 1846, for the approval of the Draft of a Bill for an Act of Parliament for the sale of the Hall, &c., and the Act of the 9th and 10th Victoria, 0. 19 (an. 1846), was passed, “to authorise the sale of part of the Charity Estates vested in the Master, \Vardens, Brethren and Sisters of the Guild or Fraternity of the Blessed Virgin Mary of the Mystery of Drapers of the City of London upon the Trusts to the will of Thomas Howell, deceased.” Under the authority of that Act, the Hall, 810., were sold to the Drapers’ Company. This was the first Act of Parliament passed relating to the Charity, and it may be treated as the completion of the Decree of 1845, so far as relates to the gathering together of the property of the Company. The administration of the Charity became the subject of a second Act of Parliament. The Information was filed in 1838 ; the hearing was on May 3, 1843; and the judgment of Lord Langdale appears to have been given immediately on the hearing. It occupied nearly five years to obtain the interpretation of the will and a declaration of the trusts. The account against the Company having been ordered from the filing of the information, and an occupation rent being charged on account of the Hall, &c., there was payable on account of the Charity, on the accumulation of rents LLANDAFF—HOWELL’S CHARITY. 10? during the pendency of the litigation from the year 1838 to the year 1846 (when the first Act of Parliament was passed), a sum of about £16,000. The Company were ordered in 1843 to pay the costs of the iniormation—-“ having” said Lord Langdale, “thought fit to have this question tried in order that they might have the application of this money accord- ing to their own view of what was right.” Their view of what was right was, that £100 a year only should be applied to the purpose of the Charity. The following is an extract of a published Letter of the Bishop of Llandaff, dated December 20, 1859 :— “Two schools, one at LLANDAFF and the other at DENBIGH, have been built on a large scale. “ On the 29th of November last, the school at Llandafi‘ was handed over by the Draper's’ Company to the local Governors: who are fifteen in number—the Bishop of the Diocese being ex-oflieio a Governor and Chairman of the Board—and on the 1st December, the same steps were taken at Denbigh. “At the Llandatf school, THIRTY ORPHAN GInLs—the word being interpreted in the scheme children who have lost one or both of their parents—are to be instructed, clothed, and main- tained ; and a Portion and Endowment Fund is to established by the Drapers’ Company for their benefit. In addition to these, Pay Boarders not exceeding THIRTY in number, who are to pay for their board, washing, and maintenance, such annual sum as the Governors shall think fit, are to be admitted, receiving gratui- tously the same education as the orphans. Such number of girls are also to be received for education, as DAY SCHOLARS, at a low rate of payment, as the Governors from time to time shall fix. “ As it is desirable that the nature of the education prescribed by the scheme should be generally known, for the guidance of those who wish to make application for the admission of orphan girls, I beg to subjoin the 114th and ‘16th Sections of the scheme. N96 108 LLANDAFF—HOWELL’S CHARITY. “‘Section 44. That there shall be taught in the schools the principles of the Christian Religion, Reading, Writing, Arithmetic, English Grammar, Geography, Biography, History, Elements of Astronomy, Garden Botany, Music, French, and Drawing. “ ‘ Section 46. That every girl shall be taught needlework, and to cut out and make up her own clothes, and get up fine linen, either separately or in classes, as the chief matron may direct; and such of the girls, on the foundation, as the chief matron shall appoint shall be taught domestic cookery.’ “The orphans are to be nominated by the Drapers’ Company, from candidates recommended by the local Governors. N 0 girl is to be admitted before she shall be seven, nor admitted on the foundation after twelve years of age. The following description of the Buildings appeared in the Building .News ;— “ The buildings are each of considerable extent; in style and character, Domestic Gothic. Accommodation is provided for about Sixty resident scholars in each establishment, besides day scholars, and suitable and separate apartments for a head matron or governess, four assistant teachers, house steward, and servants. Infirmary, library, and board-room, porter’s lodge, and usual do~ mestic offices, occupying with the play-ground, gardens, &c., about four acres of an estate of twenty acres, that has been purchased for the use of each Institution in South and North ‘Vales. “ The buildings have been erected most substantially of the limestone of the neighbourhood, with sandstone dressings to doors, Windows, chimney shafts, &c., all the external walls being lined with brick, having a space of two inches between the stone and brick, to prevent the possibility of damp. All the stone is laid in regular course, ‘ the beds and face dressed.’ The roofs are covered with green and blue slates in alternate courses, finished with ornamental ridge tiles. The principal portion of the carpenters’ and joiners’ works are executed in ‘pitch pine’ of a superior description, carefully cleaned off and varnished, instead of being painted. The walls of all the rooms in general used by the children are lined (four feet high) with ‘match boarding,’ which LLANDAFF—HOW'ELL’S CHARITY. 109 together with the fittings (many being of a novel and ingenious description), are stained and varnished in like manner. “The entrance halls, corridors, and day rooms are warmed with hot water, the other rooms by open fires, the fire-places being formed entirely of fire-brick, (except the front bars and bottom grating) which are fitted so as to be easily removed and replaced when necessary. “ The windows, with very few exceptions, are fitted with sliding sashes, hung with lines and weights, and are made suitable to ‘ mullion windows’ in place of the usual Gothic easements, by which it is so diificult to keep out wind and weather in exposed situations. “The kitchens, laundries, and other domestic offices are fitted up with the best and latest improvements, but at the same time in such a manner that the scholars can be readily instructed in all branches of the usual household duties falling to the lot of those who have their living to gain by the practice of domestic economy. “The cost of the school at Llandaff has been about £18,000, and that of the one at Denbigh £16,000. The furnishing of the same was about £2600 each, in addition.” BY RAIL FROM CARDIFF TO SWANSEA. 110 JOURNEY <1 HI‘ Ed 0): THE LEFT 8 FROM CARDIFF. Bute Docks. Glamergan canal 46 CARDIFF. Pennarth 4 m. or. river Taft‘. Cardiff marshes. or. river Ely. Wenvoe Castle,5m. 43% Ely Station. Cadoxton, 6 m. (for Llandafi‘) Barry Island, 7m. St. Fagans. 42 St. Fagansgta. St. Nicholas. 39% Peterstone Sta. Pendoylan. Hensol Castle. 35;}; Ltantrtssaz'nt S. Cowbridge, 5% m. 29% Pencoed Station. Dunraven castle. Southerndownfim. 25% Bridgend station Merthyr Mawr. Tythegston Court. 19}, Pyle Station. Castle Kenfig. 13% Port Talbot St. Aberavon bar. Swansea bay. Oystermouth. Neath bar, 10% Briton Ferry S. Neath Abbey. 8 .Neath Station. cr. river Neath. Neath Abbey. or. river Tawe. Lensamlet Sta. 2 Landore Viaduct branch for Carmarthen. Pottery. SIVAN SEA. FROBI CARDIFF. [\9 OD b-P élio 1 M 16 £41“ 20% 46 ON THE RIGHT FROM CARDIFF. Cardiff Castle. Canton, 1 mile. Llandaff, 1 m. Llantrissaint. Llanharen house. Coity Castle. Newcastle. M argam Abbey, Aberavon. Ba glan house. Cwmavon. Baglan hall. Eagle’s Bush. Gnoll Castle. Morriston castle. Temperance Town. lion. C. M. Talbot. Hated copper wks. cAERAU—wENvoE CASTLE—BARRY SLAND. 111 On leaving Cardiff station, the line passes across the marsh, with the village of Canton, (a suburb of Cardifi"), on the right. The first station is that of Ely. A road to the right leads to Llrmdrgfl. On the top of the hill on the left is the Roman station of Cae‘rau. Beneath its church are various fortifications, consisting of valla and fossa which form the dccumana ports to the west, and the praetorium, are still visible at the east end of the camp. Several smaller works appear also in the vicinity. Near this spot a road runs through the extensive and beauti- ful grounds of County-Mlle, and not far distant is Wmece Castle, the seat of R. F. Jenner, Esq. From the high land of St. Lg/flzrm’s Down, the views are ex- ceedingly picturesque, and crossing it to the south, a beautiful valley occurs called T he Dzzfirg/n, pass through Cadoxtcny'uxta-L’arry, and at about a mile distant is the Island of Barry, which according to Cressy, takes its name from Barack, a hermit of noble birth, who resided and was buried here A. n. 700. The island is about a mile in circumference, and stands nearly opposite to \Vatchet, 'Somersetshire. Rabbits constitute a great portion of the profits of the farm, which comprises about 300 acres. A chapel dedicated to this saint was standing inthe time of Leland ; there is now no erection excepting a farm house. When visiting these parts I was induced to explore the recesses of the rocks of this island, which are approachable at low water from the mainland, in search of the Adr'antam Capz'll'us Vmeris, a fragile and rare fern, a habitat of moist rocks, and which is said to grow in the interstices of these rocks; whilst prosecuting my research, and unmindful of ought 112 sr. FAGAN's—s'r. NICHOLAS. besides, the rapid return of the tide encircled the island, and I was made prisoner in one of the ehasms of the cliff. To scale the perpendicular rock to the top of the island was out of the question, therefore the only alter- native was to breast the foaming surge and swim to the shore. I did not discover the object of my search, but I afterwards found it lower down on the coast at Southerndown. Saint flagging is 4 miles from Cardiff, and 2 miles to the N. w. of Llandaff. In 1648, this spot was the scene of a decisive battle between a ‘Yelsh Royalist army of 8,000 men, and a large force under Cromwell, who narrowly escaped defeat. The castle has the ap- pearance of a eastellated mansion. The parish contains 515 inhabitants. 531'!“ gairbnlae is about 2 miles further on the road to Cowbridge, and contains some Druidical anti~ quities. Pass down the lane leading to Duffryn house, and a Cromleak, considered by some to be the largest in Britain, stands on the outskirts of a wood at two fields distance from the lane. The superincumbent stone is supported by five others of large size, inelos— ing it on the east, west, and north sides, and forming a low room open. to the south about 6 feet high in the loftiest part, 16 feet in length, and 15 feet in breadth. The horizontal stone overhangs two feet, and is partly covered, it is 16ft. 10in. in the widest, and 10 feet in the narrowest, 24 feet long and averages 2% feet thick. It is computed to contain 324 square feet. A second Cromlech is in an adjoining field, and consists of four stones, A great number of other Druidical antiquities LLANTRISSENT—PENCOED—COWBRIDGE. 113 are to be found in the district, and the valley from St. Nicholas to a place known by the name of Highlight ( YehaZ-olaj, is still called Daflryn Golych, or the Valley of U'Torsh/zlp. LLANTRISSAINT. Is about 10% miles from Cardiff, and the meaning of its name is “ The Church of Three Shanta”. It is plea- santly situated on the summit of a hill, and when viewed from a distance, has a respectable and imposing appear- ance, but on entering the town, there is little to recom- mend it, as it is comprised in one narrow irregular street composed of antiquated buildings. The Castle is ahnost all destroyed; the fragments of a tower, and the vestiges of its eutworks nearly concealediby tangled bushes, being the only remains. It has a Market House and Town- Hall. T he church dedicated to St. Illtyd, Tyfodwg, and Gwynne, is a large Norman edifice, and from the cemetery is a surprisingly extensive view. The cele- brated Sir Iieolino Jenkins, Secretary of State to Charles II, was, it is said, born here. In 1851, the population amounted to 4181. At a short distance are the ruins of an ancient Monastery, dedicated to St. Cawrdaf. From LLANTRISSENT STATION a road leads to Cow- bridge, which lies about 5 miles distant. COWBRIDGE Is a small market town, formed chiefly of one street, and divided by the river Ddaw, which at a short dis- tance falls into the sea at Aberthaw. In 1091, it was encompassed with a stone wall by Robert St Quentin, who afterwards built the Castle at Llahblcthz'an. o 114 COWBBIDGE GRAMMAR SCHOOL. The Eve Grammar Sclzool is well supported and in con- siderable repute. Jesus College, Oxford, has built a first rate school, with a residence for the master, the Rev. \Vm. Holt Beever, near the ancient south gate of this town ; the gate with a portion of the wall which en- closed the town is yet standing. Sir Leoline Jenkins, of Doctors’ Commons, London, Knt., bequeathed to the principal, fellows, and scholars of Jesus College, and their successors, property in the parish of Llantrissent and in other adjoining parishes, which he held in trust for the college, and his manor of Moulton, and farms called Sutton, alt'ac Southden; Lydmore, alias Lydmor- ston, and Whitton, in the parishes of Lancarvan and IVenvoe, with farms in the parishes of Eglwsyllan and Caerphilly. Also a School and School House with gar- den and orchard in the town of Cowbridge, and several other properties in the parish of Lambeth, Surrey, and in various parts of the counties of Northampton and Gloucester, for the endowment this School, for an exhibition at Oxford, for binding apprentices poor chil- dren born in the parishes of Llantrissent, Llanblethian, Cowbridge, and Ystradowcn, or for the clothing of poor people dwelling in those parishes, and for other charita- ble purposes. Cewbridge is a corporate borough, and with Cardiff and Llantrissent returns the M. P. for Cardiff. The Marquis of Bute is Lord paramount, and appoints the Mayor (who is such for life) the present one being B..C. Nicholl Carne, Esq. of Nash Manor, 25m. distant. The Mayor appoints annually the two Bailiffs, and are ma- gistratrs within the borough to the exclusion of those of he county. cownmnev-sr. nonnrs—Lmnrwrr. 115 The town possesses agood Town Hall and Market but being without any manufactures, its trade is local and depends principally on agriculture. From the top of an elevated common near the town, the village of Peterstone is seen, and before you lies .H'ensel Castle. There are three other castles in the neighbourhood, those of Landougk, Fonmon, and Penllz'ne. St. Donat’s Castle, a romantic pile, stands on the coast, about 6 miles distant; it was founded by Sir Wm. de Esterling, a Norman knight. Terraces lead to the shore below. A watch tower 56 feet high, built to descry wrecks, is in a dilapidated state. Beyond the watch tower is the Nan Beacon and the lighthouses on Nass point. 3141mm“ major, atown in decay, is near to St. Donate. The Assizes for the county were until temp. Henry VIII held here, then at Cowbridge, and in the last century at Cardiff. The “Hall of Justice,” built by Gilbert de Clare still exists. In the year 448, St. Iltyd presided over a college for the education of young men for the priesthood, and is said to have been a teacher for 90 years. On the Norman conquest, Fitzhamon transferred the revenues to the abbey of Tewkesbury. St. Iltyd was the inventor of the common plow in Wales, which still bears his name. Flat stones in the churches record the longevity of the inhabitants here, one covers the remains of Matthew Voss, 1584, aged 129, and one at Lemmaes church, records a man who died at upwards of 150 years of age. Sea encroachments have been made on the coast to a. great extent. 0* 116 COWBRIDGE—BRIDGEND. Traces of a large British camp may now be found on» the summit of the cliff at Colhugh, a mile below Llantwit. Limestone abounds here, and the shore at times is like a pavement. There are a great many caves in the cliffs, no fewer than 20 from Ham to Tresillian. In this latter cave the parents of the late Sir Thomas Pieton are said to have been married. REsInENeEs—Bonvilstone House, Rd. Bassett, Esq.-Landough Castle, Robt. Boteler, Esq.-Dimland’s Castle, .1. W. Nicholl Carne, Esq.—~N ash Manor, RC. Nieholl Carne, Esq.~—l’wll-y- wraeh, D. Thomas, Esq.~—Penlline Castle, John Homfray, Esq.——Llanharron House, Mrs. Jenkins.———Llanblethian, Capt. Birt Jennen—l’eniine C1 mrt, \Vm. Salmon, Esq .——St.l)onat ’s Castle, Thomas Tyrwhitt Drake, Esq.—~—The Ham, Iltyd , Nieholl, Esq. Population of Cowbridge, in 1851,—-1066. INNs——Bear—~Duke of \Vellington (Commercial and Posting) 13 RIDGEND. Distant from MILES. MILES. Cardiff, . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Margam Abbey ..... . . . 8 Cowbridge . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Merthyr Mawr . . . . . . . . 5 Coity Castle . . . . . . . . . . . . l Neath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Dunraven Castle. . . . . . . . 6 Cgmore Castle . . . . . . . . . . Ewenny Priory , , , _ , , _ , 2 Porthcawl Harbour 6 Lantwit Major . . . . . . . . 8 Southerndown , . . . , , _ _ 5 Llantrissent . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Bridgend is a thriving market town in the parish of Coity, and is situated on both sides of the river Ogmore, in which salmon, trout, and other fish are plentiful. The river is the boundary of the two divisions of the town, called “ 06d Castle,” and “A7020 Castle,” which take COI'I‘Y CASTLE—DUNRAVEN CASTLE. 117 their names from two fortresses which anciently stood there. ave/w Castle is situated on a steep hill and has a ehurclnwhich is dedicated to St. Illtyd. The manufac- ture of fiannels and shawls was formerly carried on in the town, and the neighbourhood is rich in iron and coal mines, the produce of which is brought down by rail through Bridgend and shipped at Perthcawl harbour, which is about six miles distant, and much sent to London, &c., by railway. There is a good Town Hall, and a Saving’s Bank. A National School, in which upwards of 100 boys and girls are instructed was founded here by‘ the late Sir John Nicholl, of Merthyrmawr. Coz'ty Castle is a ruin standing on level ground sur- rounded with trees and underwood. It was built in 1091. Paganus dc Turberville, one of FitZ-Hamon’s knights, became possessed of it as follows ;——Hav- ing summoned Morgan, its ‘Welsh lord to surrender, the latter came forth with his daughter, and offered her in marriage to the Xorman, so that he might obtain the castle by inheritance, or in case of refusal, that single combat should decide its possession. Turberville pre- sented his sword, and embraced the offered bride, and thus obtained possession of the lordship. It now belongs to the Earl of Dunravan. Dzmraz‘m Castle stands on a rocky headland, close to the Bristol channel, on the south from Bridgend, and is the residence of the Earl of Dunravan. It is a cas- tellated mansion, built on the sight of a very ancient structure called Dzi'mlryfan». It enjoys an extensive prospect, and in the adjoining cliffs are some large and curious caves. 118 oeMoRE CASTLE—~EWENNY PRIORY, ETC. Ogmore Castle is situated on the east bank of the river of that name, its remains are inconsiderable, consisting of the keep and some outer walls. It is said to have been given to William de Londres by Fitz-Hamon, con- sequently its foundation may be dated prior to the Norman conquest. Ewomty Abbey is about a mile distant from the eas- tle. It was built by \Villiam de Londres or his son John. Ewonng/ Priory was appended to Ogmore castle by Maurice de Londres, about the year 1141. It stands at two miles distance from the castle, and the same dis- tance from St. Brides. The strong embattled walls and towers, indicate that the priory was intended as a place of security as well as of religious Observances. At the dissolution its revenues were granted by Henry VIII t0 Sir Edward Carne, and the property descended by mar- riage to the family of Turberville. It is'a good fishing station, and permission to angle is freely given by the proprietor. .Portlwawl Harbour possesses many natural advantages and the shore is adapted for sea bathing. It is the ter- minus of the Llynvi Valley Railway. Ty Hawr or the Great House, once the residence of the unfortunate Anne Boleyn, is not far distant. Soutltermlown, a rural watering place, and very healthy spot, is one mile from Dunravan. POPULATION of Bridgend, 1779. INNS—\Vyndham Arms—Castle. NEwsPArEn—Bridgend Chronicle. Rnsrnnnense—Merthyr M awr, John Cole Nieholl, Esq.--Ewenny Abbey, Colonel Jervis Turberville. PYLE—KENFIG—MARGAM. 119 PYLE. MILES. MILES Bridgend . . . . . . . . . . . . 5% Port Talbot . . . . . . . . . . Kenfig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Margam Abbey . . . . . . . . 6 I’yle Inn is a fine large house, built by Mr. Talbot- of Margam Abbey, in a retired and pleasant situation, with good grounds attached. This inn was formerly much resorted to, but since the formation of the Railway, it is not so much frequented. In the churchyard is an elegant cross. 33811111.} is a small borough town about two miles distant. The Barrows, large tracks of hilly sand banks, extend along the coast for several miles, and abound with rabbits. The eneroachments of the sea are in a great measure prevented, by the tenants being com- polled to plant annually a certain quantity of reed grass (Phalarz'a amndzinacea) whose roots bind the loose sand together. fitargam, formerly called Pewdar,(the Oak Summit) is a delightful spot, situated under a finely wooded range of mountain, forming a charming picture. At a short distance from the village stands Maryam Abbey, the beautiful mansion of the Hon. C. B. M. Talbot. The park is about 5 miles in circumference. Here is an ancient Saxon church, restored at great cost, which con- tains some costly monuments of the Mansell family. About 1147, Robert, Earl of Gloucester, founded the Abbey. He was married to the daughter and heiress of the famous Fitz-Hamon, and they are reputed to have been buried here. At the dissolution it was purchased by 120 roar TALBOT AND ABERAVON. Sir Rice Mansell, ancestor of Mr. Talbot. In the plea- sure grounds is a fine conservatory in the Doric style, 880 by 82 feet, containing the finest orangcry in the world, which was obtained as follows :—-A Spanish ves- sel, bearing a cargo of orange trees, &c., sent by a. Dutch merchant as a present to the consort of ‘Villiam Ill, was wrecked here; the plants were preserved by T. M. Talbot, Esq, who built the conservatory for their reception. Some of the trees are 20 feet high, and up- wards of2 feet in girth. Pomegranates, citrons, and lemons, are also in the collection, and the soil is parti- cularly adapted for evergreen and other shrubs, the hollies are like timber trees, and the largest bay laurels in England flourish here. The mansion of Margam is said to have cost £100,000 in its erection. It contains Roman and other antiquities. The hills abound with Roman stones, and an encampment may be traced at the back of the house. The parish is extensive, including the copper works at T az'back, with its long line of white-washed cottages called “ Constantinople.” PORT TALBOT AND ABERAYON. Is about 2 m. distant from Margam, and near to Tai- bach ; it is a rising port, being the outlet for the mineral produce of the valley of Cwmavon, where copper, tin, iron and other metal works are carried on. The har- bour is commodious. Swansea and the Mumbles lie on the opposite side of the bay. Gwmaeon is a populous hamlet about lém. from Aberavon, and 2m. from Port Talbot. The chimney stack of the copper works is 1200ft. above the level of the furnaces, and is easily ABERAVON—BRITON FERRY. 121 seen for many miles. Its great height is for the purpose of carrying away the noxious vapours arising from the copper, which are very detrimental to the growth of vegetation. Tm'haoh, is about lém. from Aberaven. POPULATION—AbOI‘aVOn, 2380; Cwmavon, 7000. EEsIDENeEs—Coed Park, Cwmavon, \Villiam Gilbertson, Esq; Margam Abbey, Hon. Christopher Rice Mansell Talbot; Glenafon, Taibach, Arthur P. Vivian, Esq; Cakwood, Cwm- avon, Rev. Maurice \Villiams. COMMERCIAL INN—\Valnut Tree. BEITON FERRY The next station on the line, is on the estuary of the Neath, and 2%111. from that town. This navigable stream here emerges in a fine sweep under high well wooded banks occasionally broken by naked cliffs, and unites with the sea. The scenery around this little haven is equal to any along the coast, and the village is pictu- resque and neat. The climate is so mild, and the situ- ation so sheltered, that myrtlcs, magnolias, and many tender exotics flourish and bloom in great perfection. More than 200,000 tons of coal are annually shipped from this port. There are very extensive floating docks which are connected by railway with the great mining districts of Glyncorwg and Maesteg. These great un- dertakings were promoted by the Earl of Jersey and other landed proprietors, under whose estates coal is raised, which is identical with the celebrated Aberdare Steam Coal. A British Free School has been established at Giants’ cave by the coal proprietors, and a National School stands in the village. The population is rapidly increasing._ The Neath canal 14 miles in length termi- P 122 BRITON FERRY—NEATH. nates at Giants’ cave. By crossing the ferry and walk- ing over the Burrows to Swansea, instead of going through Neath, a distance of 6 miles may be saved. Baglrm Hall is a fine residence owned by the Earl of Jersey. Near the mansion stands the neat village church, celebrated in an elegy by the poet Mason, who with Gray, occasionally visited at Baglan Hall, then the re- sidence of the Rev. W. Thomas. POPULATION—~11! 1841, 720; In 1851, 1740. BEsmnNens—Eaglesbush, Mr. H. E. Evans; Baglan House, R. Hall, Esq, ; Baglan Hall, Griffith Llewellyn, Esq. NEATH. MILES MILES Bridgend . . . . . . . . . . .. 19 Mertliyr . . . . . . . . . . .. 24 Brecon . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 33 Pent Neath Yaughan . . 13 Margam . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Swansea . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Neath is situated on the margin of the river of that name, which is navigable for vessels of 400 tons burthen. It has secured considerable commercial importance on account oi the inexhaustible supply of coal by which it is surrounded. It does an immense trade in coal, iron, tin, copper, and chemical tiles, with France, Ireland, London, and several of the counties of England, and the trade of the port is facilitated by the canal, and the Vale of Neath and South Wales Railways. It is a corporate and parliamentary borough, in the hundred of its name, con- tains a substantial town-hall, with a commodious corn market underneath, two large public schools, a public library and museum, a mechanics’ institute, and a sub— scription news and reading room. CADOXTON-JUXTA~NEATH. 123 ATE/lath or lVedd is a place of great antiquity, and With- out doubt was the NicZzmz of Antoninus. The Castle, the remains of which is inconsiderable, and stands on the east side of the river, belonged to the domains of J estyn ap Gwrgan, Lord of Morganwg; and after the conquest by Fitz-Eamon, it was allotted to his Kins- man Richard de Granville, who repaired and enlarged the fortress, and after founding a monastery, and sur— rendering his estates to the church, returned to England. In 1281 the castle Was burned by Llewellyn ap J orwerth. Cqdorctony'uzcta-Necttk is a large parish, embracing the Neath Abbey iron works, chemical works, and other large establishments. Neath Abbey is ,' an object of in- terest, it was called by Leland “ the fairest in all \Vales,” but it is now a smoky ruin, surrounded by forges, furnaces, chimnies, and iron sheds. In 1129, the abbey was dedicated by Richard and Constance de Granville to the Holy Trinity, and inhabited by a com- munity of grey friars, the church is dedicated to St. Catwg, and contains a pedigree of the family of Wil- liams engraved in copper. At a short distance from Neath, on the brow of ahill, is the Gnoll, a eastellated mansion, the property of H. Grant, Esq, It is a picturesque and noble residence, backed by beautiful woods and plantations. The river is the boundary of the track of land called GOWGI‘. PoPULyrIoN—Neath, 577 8 ; CadoXton-juxta-Ncath, 7314. REsIDENms—Dyfren’ HOWQH Gwyn; Glanbrane, Capt. “Tm. J 01163; Clyn-y-bont House, George Pemose, Esq_ COMMERCIAL Inns—~Castlc ; Victoria. 19% 124 JOURNEY FROM NEATH TO MERTHYR. am at ifftraflg Elailmaig. ON THE RIGHT FROM NEATH. To Briton Ferry 2 miles. Knoll Castle. Lantwit—j uxta- Neath. Cadoxton Lodge. Ynys-y-gwern, be- longing to J. l). Llewellin, Esq., who is proprietor of the woods for several miles. Melincourt “Tater- fall, on the River Clydaeh. Capel Rcsolven \Vaterfall. Blaengwrach. Aberpengwm Mansion. \Vaterfall. To Aberdare four miles. ’ FROM I runn'rnvn H 24 e! [\‘3 t0 NJ {er-I 21 18% tab-I 16 15 145;- NEATH . Crss. river Neath ,1 Cadoxton-juxta Neath. Abemlulayis Sta. Cross river Dulas near its junction with the Neath. Messrs. Llewel- lyn’s Tin \Vks. Ab ergarwedd. Resolven Station Pentreclwyday. Pontlaine. Glyn Neat/L Sta. From here visit \Vaterfalls. N oath Canal. Hirwain Station and Iron 1Works. Ll'wydcoed Sta. Abcmantstatz'on for Aberdare. MERTIIYR. FROM XEATH. ON THE LEFT FRUIT NEATH. [O é—i—J 8..1 .2 10 18 *Sb-l 24; small Cascade and Mill. A 2' Sarn Helen, a Re- man Causeway, may be traced in a K13. direction for several miles. Rheola. M aesgwyn . \Vaterl all. Aberpengwm. Pontnedd fychan To Breeon twenty miles. ABERDULAIS—ABERPERGWM. 125 VALE OF NEATH. Beautiful and calm was once this loveliest of Vales, and although commerce has altered the aspect of many of its secluded spots, still the main features of its de- lightful scenery appear undisturbed by the blasts of the furnaces—the clanking of iron—the snorting of the rail- way engines—and the tourest has but to deviate a few paces from the track of commerce, to find secluded and pastoral spots with romantic waterfalls in all their na- tive wildness. As the eastern side of the valley is as— eended, at Qé-m. distance from Neath, a small waterfall occurs. Aberd'ulaz's on the opposite side, has also a Waterfall, and its Mill is a picture which an artist would be enraptured with. Between this spot and Glyn Neath, is Vaughan (m Pmzllergacr, the property of Mr. Llewel- lyn, whose ancestral seat of Ym'sgwern is almost con- cealed by foliage. There is a magnificent Cascade at Melz'ncom‘t, 6m. from Neath. The stream, half inclosed by rocks, is precipitated over one the ledges, from a height of 80ft. Rheola, the seat of Mr. Vaughan, and the mansion of Aberpergzmz, is situated near the line. Oliver Cromwell, who was “in some way connected with the Williams’s, is said to have halted here on his way to Milford Haven, and to have despatehed messengers to acquaint the family of his arrived. Receiving no encouragement, he fired a few shots over the house, by way of intimidation, and departed. The railway here passes through some of the most romantic scenery in Wales. At Glyn Neath good accommodation may be found at the Lamb and Flag. 2111. higher from this 126 VALE 0F NEATH. point is a public house called the Angel, near the ‘Wa- terfiills of Ponf—nedrZ-fiw/mz, pronounced and usually spelt Pent wealth Vaughan. This village with its bridges clothed with ivy, is picturesquely situated at the con- fluence of five streams coming down from the Brecknoclr— shire mountains though beautifully wooded glens, and beyond Craig-y-Dinas, a lofty rock of a singular form rears its head. It presents an object of grandeur, and evertops the woods and plantations. The point where the Upper and Lower H’epste and the Jlfellzfe unite their waters at two miles distant, should be first visited, but it is desirable to procure a guide to conduct you to the spot. Proceed by a rough track to the Upper ZTepste cataract, and view from the summit the magnificent prospect here disclosed of the Vale of N eath—the Swansea coast, including the Mumbles point and lighthouse—the wide expanse of the Bristol Channel—and the distant coast of Somerset and Devon. The Upper Hepste is a large expanse of water, falling over a broad ledge of rock, and is projected to such a distance from the cliff as to leave a passage behind, wide enough to allow of persons walking beneath the watery arch. A descent, steep and difiicult, leads to the cataract of the Lower Hepste, which consists of a series of falls from the height of 300 feet. It is not so much visited as other parts, on account of the difficulty in reaching it. The falls of the Mellte, called the CZmzgzryns, are three in number, and are truly beautiful and grand. The surrounding scenery is less picturesque than those previously visited, but excels in sublimity and grandeur. In passing from the middle to the VALE or NEATH. 127 highest of these three falls it is necessary to cross the river by leaping from rock to rock, or to return to the top of the bank and take a circuitous route of nearly a mile. About a mile from the top of the upper Clun- gwyn a View of the Village and church of I'stmcl feZZzfe is obtained, and a short steep descent leads to the entrance of Porth-yr—ogof, or the cavern of Cwm Perth. This is an immense natural cavern, 48 ft. wide and 20 ft. high, and half-a~mile in length, through which the Mellte river flows. To inspect the objects enumerated a full day will be occupied, and by the time the tourist has retraced his steps to the inn at Pontnedd-fychan, or to the Lamb and Flag at Glyn Neath, he will find he has completed a hard day’s work. On the next day he may proceed on another route, as follows z—Pass over the bridge which crosses the Neath, proceed for a short distance along the tram-road to a mill erected for rolling sand, and take a view of the rock Crazlq-y-Dz'aas, pass on the right~hand side of the rock and reach Bram-mam, or the stone bow, sometimes called the “ Chair of the Witch.” Its height is about 90 feet and its breadth about 70 feet. The falls of the Perrldg/n, called Ysgwd Einon Gain, should be next visited, and return down the river to Ysgwd Gwladis, or the Lady’s Fall. The height of this fall is not more than 30 feet, but it is an elegant and beautiful object, and the course of the river I’erddyn is full of rich and beautiful scenery. In this locality the angler will find good sport, and in his rambles will be delighted with the romantic objects in his way. l 28 LLANsAMLET—LANnoaE—momusToN. NEATH T0 SWANSEA. On leaving Neath the railway takes a curve, and after crossing the rivers Neath and Clydach, a nearer and different view of the abbey is obtained. The church of CadoXton-juXta-Neath, dedicated to Cattwg Ddoeth the ‘Vise, is a neat edifice. The pleasant residences of Wémgoch, Greer-n LZz/Jynohwz'th, and Birch Grove stand on the right, before arriving at Lansamlet. Cross the river Tawe, pass near the Jirarod Copper War/cs, and reach the Landore Viaduct, where carriages are changed for Swansea. A stupendous steam engine is erected here, for the drainage of a valuable mine, which machine raises water at the rate of 80,000 gallons in an hour. {*Eiflrrtfitan QB £15119, a square heavy building stands on the summit of the mountain to the right. The surface of the hills and plains around, almost entirely divested of verdure, are rendered barren and unsightly by the smoke of copper, sulphur, and arsenic, and the air is beclouded and vitiatcd by the fumes which arise from the works, giving the stranger a most unfavorable im- pression of the neighbourhood of Swansea. Although the smoke is very unpleasant, it is affirmed that the health of the working people experiences no ill effects from it, and that a full average number of them attain an old age. swansm BAY. 129 SWANSEA. MILES MILES Bristol, (by water) . . . . 66 Llanelly . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Briton Ferry . . . . . . . . . . 6 Mumbles . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Carmarthen . . . . . . . . . . 26 Margam . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Gower Inn . . . . . . . . . . 8 Neath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 London . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 Pent ar Dulais . . . . . . . . 9 Loughor . . . . . . . . . . . . Rhosilly . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Called Abertaweg/ by the \Velsh, derives its name from the confluence of the river Tawe. This town is re- garded as the most important one in South Wales. It is an ancient borough‘town, governed by a mayor, al- dermen, and 18 councillors. With Neath, Loughor, Aberavon, and Kenfig, it returns a member to parlia- ment. It has rapidly risen to commercial importance, being indebted for its advancement and prosperity to the mineral treasures which abound in the neighbour- hood, and its advantageous maritime situation. Nine- tenths of the copper ore manufactured in England are said to be smelted in the district of Swansea. There are also extensive manufactories of iron, tin-plate, zinc, alkali, and patent fuel. The patent fuel is a com~ position of eulm or small coal and tar, compressed into the form of bricks, and much used in steam vessels. The nuisance of the smoke from the copper works has prevented the town being so much frequented as a wa- tering place as it would have been, although the pretty excursions about the bay still attract a considerable number of visitors in the summer season. If the visitor ascends the eminences to the eastward of the town, ex- tended beneath is one of the most beautiful bays to be Q 130 SWANSEA eAs'rLE—rown HALL—CASTLE conceived, sheltered from the north by a range of hills, and sweeping from the town in a graceful curve, termi- nated by the broken and picturesque headland of the Mumbles with Oystermouth Castle on the brow of the hill. The town is well planned, the streets are broad and well paved, the private residences are numerous and many of them handsome, the public buildings are noble looking, and the shops are equal to those of most "large towns in England. The Castle is said to have been erected in 1113 by the Beaumonts, who conquered Gower-land. The prin- cipal feature is a massive quadrangular tower, with a range of arches surrounding the top. It is the pro- perty of the Duke of Beaufort, who is Lord of Gower. The Post O‘fiice is a an ornamental and fine locking structure, built of red brick with Caen stone facings, in Castle Bailey street. ' The Town Hall is a Grecian structure of Bath stone, erected in 1823 and enlarged in 1848. The Rog/cl Ia- stz'tut/zi'on of South Wales is a large and elegant building, the principal front of which extends lOOft, having in the centre a proselyte portico of four fluted Ionic eo- lumns; it contains a fine library, museums of zoology, ‘antiquities and mineralogy. There are five Churches and a great number of dissenting places of worship. The churches are St. Mary’s, St. John’s, Trinity, Kilvy among the copper works, and St. Paul’s at Sketty. The other principal public buildings are the Infirmary and Dispensary, several Public Schools, including the Gram- mar School founded in 1682, by Dr. Hugh Gore, and restored on a new site at Mount Pleasant; the Guild- SWANSEA—PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 131 hall, Somerset Place; a commodious Market Home in Oxford street; a Theatre, Saez'ng’s Bank, Police Court, Ciloanty Gaol, on Oystermouth road ; Union Worlskoase, on Oystermouth road ; andfnslzy'tatlonfor the Deaf and Dumb. Numerous handsome Villas have been built of late years to overlook the bay, and a Cemetery of 13 acres of land is nicely laid out. The Spring Assizes and Quarter Sessions are held here. Ship building is carried on and Floating Docks have been constructed upon a large scale. Regattas take place in the bay, and Races at Crumlyn Burrows. At night a lurid glare for several miles is produced by the flames and vapours from the copper works, and a blasted vegetation for a considerable distance round the works, indicates the pernicious efiects of the smoke, while horses and cattle which graze within the influence of the vapour, exhibit immense swellings at the joints. FAMILY "AND Comunncmr. Imvs—Mackworth Arms; Castle; Cameron Arms; Bush. POPULATION—Including suburban villages, about 36,000. CoNvnYANeEs.-—Sonth Wales Railway; Swansea Vale Railway; STEAM PACKETS to Belfast, Glasgow, ‘,Hayle, Ilfracombe, Liverpool, Milford, Tenby, and Bristol. COACHES, &c. to Morriston every morning; to the Mumbles several times in the day; to Yniscedwin, Ystalyfera, Clydach, Pontardawe, and Ystradgynlais. Nnwsrarnns—Cambrian; Swansea Herald; Swansea Journal. GOWER. This peninsula is worth a visit, its circumference is about 50111. It is inhabited principally by the descen- dants of Flemings, and exhibits fine sea scenery. Qja 132 SWANSEA—THE MUMBLES.—GOWER- Gower and the opposite coast of Pembrokeshire is called “ Little England beyond Wales,” because the manners and language of the inhabitants approach nearer the English than the Welsh. Their employment con- sists principally of cultivating the land and fishing. The peninsula is chiefly invested in. the Duke of Beau- fort, Mr. Talbot, and two or three other large land- owners. The Duke of Beaufort is lord paramount, ap- points a coroner and bailiff‘, and is entitled to quit-rent from the farms. The road from Swansea to the Mumbles affords a delightful drive. The rocky headland of the Mumbles lies on the left, and in encircling the ()ystermouth bay, some fine wooded scenery is passed on the right, studded with gentlemen’s seats, among which may be enume- rated Singleton Atbey, the residence of Mrs. Vivian, reliot of the late J'. H. Vivian, for many years M. P. for Swansea, which is a beautiful Gothic structure. Park- warn, the residence of Henry Hussey Vivian, M. P. for the County of Glamorgan, and owner of the large cop- per and other works in the neighbourhood ; Hendreffoz'lan, the residence of L. Ll. Dillwyn, Esq., M. P. for Swansea, Bryn lVewydd, and Skettg/ lTaZZ. On approaching the Mumbles, Qystermoutk Castle presents itself on the top of a hill, with cliffs and lime- stone quarries in the back ground. Large numbers of oysters are taken at the Mumbles and forwarded to all parts of the kingdom. The oyster dredging gives employment during the season, which extends from September to April, to upwards of 250 persons. EXCURSIONS IN eowna.-rouenoa. 133 Excursions may be made in Gower to Langlaml Bay, Caswcll Bay, Orwz'ch Point, Blshopstone Valley, Pwlda Point, and the Moors. The Gowar Inn, within a two miles of Oxwich bay, affords excellent accommodation, and during the summer season is completely filled with visitors. From this place tours may be made Ito .Penrz'ce Castle, the Tore, Pemzard Castle, the Bone Caverns, &c., for a description of which, we refer our readers to the local Guide Bookfi“ INNs.——l\Icrmaid, Mumbles; The Elms, Mumbles; Ship and Castle, Mumbles; George, Mumbles; Gowcr Inn, Oxwich, six miles from Oystermouth; Ship Inn, Rhosilly. Journey from Swansea to Milford Haven. On leaving Swansea the train returns to Landore Viaduct, where carriages are changed. The first sta- tion reached is Gower Road, 4§m., from whence you enter GOWGI‘. 2m. further along the line is LOUGHOR, Situated on the river of that name, which divides Glamorgan from Carmarthen. The counties are con- nected by means of a wooden bridge of considerable length, and the railway viaduct is nearly parallel with the same. Loughor is a contributary borough with Swansea and other places in returning a member to par- liament. The outward walls of a square castle fortified by a treble trench, is standing ; the castle was destroyed by Rhys Hp Gryffydd. Population, 1099. *Guide to the Mumbles and adjacent Bays, 1s .; Pcarsc & Brown- 134 CARMARTHENSHIRE—WRECKING. durmurtbrnrbia. In this thoroughly Welsh county, the inhabitants still use the Welsh dialect to a great extent, they adhere to their old customs, and their manners are less pleasing than in the counties where the Engish more prevails. Agriculture has not progressed in the same ratio with other parts, and there are vast tracts of waste and un- drained land. The county forms part of the great coal field of South \Vales, and produces a variety of mineral productions. The soils are principally poor, but there are a great number of acres near the sea and along the Valley of the Towy, which are of capital quality. It is the largest of the Welsh counties, but its line of sea coast is inferier to that of Glamorgan or Pembroke. Carmarthen bay is the largest in the channel, it has good anchorage and abounds with fish. Within the sweep of the bay, are the ports of Tenby, Saundersfoot, Carmarthen and Llanelly. The Bury river is an estuary 3m. wide when the tide is in. The wicked and disgrace- ful practise of “ Wrechzl'ng” still prevails on its rocky shores, but nothing like to the extent that it did in for— mer days. The Cefyn Sidan (silky ridge) sands, are very fatal to mariners. Several instances have occurred of passengers bodies washed on the rocks, having been plundered and the fingers of some out off to secure rings, and on some occasions when the bodies have come ashore warm and almost breathing, have been left to die to obtain plunder. Between Ferryside and Pembrey, and from Llanstephan westward, prowlers are continually in search of wreck, and false lights are exhibited on CARMARTHENSHIRE—LLANELLY. 135 dark nights by these abandoned wretches, to lure vessels towards the rocky shore, and after a wreck, when dead bodies strew the sand, these monsters, if they have not time to strip their victims, throw their bodies into apool secured to a stake by a rope, until they have time to complete the “ job.” Carmarthenshire has been very little explored. The ruins of 12 castles, 2 abbeys and 3 small religious houses are still visible, and many traces of the Roman sway remain. LLANELLY. MILES MILES Carmarthen . . . . . . . . . . 15 Loughor . . . . . . . . . . . . 5% Kidwelly . . . . . . . . . . .. 8 London ......217 Llandilo Vawr . . . . . . . . 20 Swansea . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Is a market town and borough, and a thriving sea- port, eligibly situated on a creek of the Bristol Channel. The neighbourhood has long been celebrated for its bituminous coal, stone coal, culm, and fire clay, of which large quantities are exported. The copper works employ about 500 persons, and the collieries up- wards of 1000. There are several foundries, lead and silver works, and a large pottery, and from these im- portant establishments, the flourishing state of the town arises. There are four large docks, with conve- nient landing stages, and each dock has a reservoir for securing it, and there is a public reservoir for cleansing the harbour and channel. By means of the Llanelly railway, a communication is effected with the anthracite coal districts. Upwards of 2000 vessels 136 LLANELLY—PEMBREY—CARMABTHEN BAY. annually enter these docks for cargoes. The principal exports are manufactured copper, lead ore, pig lead, tinned iron plates, crockery, and coal. It has a Chamber of Commerce, to which various measures for the improvement of the town are submitted, and an Athenzeum in Keell Street. Llanelly is a contributory borough with Carmarthen, in returning one member to parliament. The parish of Llanelly, comprises the hamlets of Berwick, Borough Glyn, Hengoed, and \Vestfa. F our miles from Llanelly, the road to Kid- welly crosses a lofty ridge called Pembrey Hill, em- bracing fine views of Gower, Carmarthen bay, and the Bristol channel. Comrnncmr. lNNs—Stepney Arms, with park and pleasure grounds; Station Hotel; Neptune, Falcon; Ship and Castle. POI‘ITLATION of Parish, 16,000. CoNvEYANens.——South ‘Wales Railway; Llanelly Railway t0 Pontardulais, Llandilo Vawr, Llangadock, and Landovery. About midway between Llanelly and Kidwelly is Paint/ray Station. A packet, during the summer months, plies between Pembrey harbour and Tenby, which town lies on the opposite side of Carmarthen bay. A short distance from Pembrey harbour is Burry port, with a large tract of sand banks, known as Pembrey Burrows, which entend some miles into the bay, nearly opposite to which is Worm’s H’ead, at the extremity of Gower land. _ Carma/rthen Bay—The sands of this bay have been fatal to a great number of ships. The bay being ex- CARMARTHEN BAY—KIDWELLY. 137 posed to the full force of the south-westerly gales, and there being a considerable trade at Llanelly and at the different ports within it, wrecks frequently take place in the bay. Life boats have been stationed for some years past at Tenby, on the west side of the bay, and at the floating light, near Llanelly, at its east side, and on the 24th of January, 1860, the Royal National Life Institution sent one of its best life boats to Ferryside, which is in the neighbourhood of Cefn Sidan sands. KIDWELLY. Is a market town, 10,5 miles from Carmarthen, situ- ated on the banks of the river Gwendraeth, which falls into another called Gwendraeth Fawr, at about mile and a half distant. From this junction, and the circum— stance of their afterwards falling into Carmenthen bay, the town derives its name, as the Welsh word Carl/walla signifies “ to go into one place. The town is divided into Old and New by the river. The part distinguished as Olcl Kzllzrelly, was formerly surrounded by strong walls with three gates, one of which is yet standing. Nearly the whole of the houses are in a very dilapi- dated state, and the place has almost the appearance of a deserted village, with the frowning walls of its an- cient fortress towering above it, and looking noble in decay. drew Ift'rlwelly on the east side of the river, over which is a stone bridge, has a small number of good houses, among many of an inferior class. The town was incorporated in the reign of Henry VI, and is within the jurisdiction of the Duchy of Lancaster. The port was much improved by the late Lord Cawdor, R . 138 xrnwnLLY cannon AND CASTLE. but is still a poor one, its chief trade being in coal raised about 4 miles distant. The inhabitants are employed in working coal, smelting iron, and making tin plate. There is a communication by canal with Pembrey, and a weekly market is held here. The Church is an old cruciform edifice, and contains the sepulchral effigy of a priest, with an inscription new illegible; and over the south entrance is a small ._figure of the virgin. The transepts are in ruins and the centre aisle is the only part which can be used for divine ser- vice. On a rocky eminence overlooking the town, stands the Castle, said to have been built soon after the conquest by \Villiam de Londres, a Norman adventurer, in 1094. It is now a large and imposing ruin, with some of its apartments entire. The western gateway is a noble specimen of architecture, and the whole structure has an aspect of solemn magnificence. Leland says :-—- “ The old town is prettily wauled, and hath hard by, the waul of a castle; the old town is near al desolated, but the Castel is meately and well kept up.” Other authorities say :— “ Three years after the Conquest of Glamorgan, ‘Villiam de Londres invaded this district, built a castle of great strength, and fortified the town with walls. At this time Ithys, Prince ofSouth ‘Vales, a youth, was in Ireland, and his mother Gwenllian, a true heroine, accompanied by her two younger sons, marched on Kid— welly, near which, at a spot still called “ The Field of the Grave of Gwenllian,” a fierce encounter took place between the ‘Welsh and Norman troops. De Londres was victorious, his fair foe fell with one of her sons, and the other was taken prisoner.” KIDWELLY eAsrLn~rERRYs1nE CARMARTHEN. 189 It is said by Powell:— “The Castle was re-built in 1190, by Rhys ap Griflith. In the 13th century Kidwelly fell into the hands of Maurice de Lon- dres, a descendant of the founder, by whom the chapel and the greater part of the existing ruins were added. After undergoing the usual vicissitudes Eof siege/s and partial demolition, it became the property of the Duke of Lancaster by marriage, and was granted by Henry VII, who was entertained here, to Sir Rhys ap Thomas. On the forfeiture of Sir Bhys’s grandson, the Vaughans of Golden Grove became possessors, and afterwards his son and heir Lord Oawdor, whose son and successor the late Earl Cawdor afterwards inherited it.” POPULATION—“1560. Inns—Bridge House ; Castle. FE RBYSIDE, A pretty watering place, is an extension of Kidwelly flat to the entrance of Carmarthen river ; about 45m. distant from Kidwelly. Persons who require a retired spot near the sea, with lodgings on reasonable terms, will find this a quiet and pleasant spot. On the opposite side of the river is itanstepbzm @Hfiflt, which over- looks the sea from a promontery. The outer walls are nearly entire, but the building is a mere shell; it has been taken and re-taken on various occasions. It is said to have been built by the sons of Uchtred, Prince of Merioneth, A. n. 1138, but soon after fell into the hands of the Normans and Flemings; in 1143, it was rescued by Meredydd, Rhys, and Oadell sons of Gryffydd f1P Rhys, Prince of South Wales. The village lies in a graceful wooded hollow. Delightful and extensive views are seen from the top of the hill. A road leads across the peninsula to a ferry on the oppo- SltG SldG at 25111, distance, Rs 140 TOWN or CARMARTHEN. CARMARTHEN. MILES MILES Bristol (by Steam) . . . . 138 Laugharne . . . . . . . . . . 13 Brecon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Milford Haven . . . . . . . . 40 Clarbeston road . . . . . . 26 Newcastle Emlyn . . .. 20 Cardigan . . . . . . .. . . . . 30 Narberth road for Tenby 20 Ferryside . . . . . . . . . . .. 6% Pembroke . . . . . . . . . . .. 33 Haverfordwest . . . . . . .. 31 Pater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 34$ Kidwelly . . . . . . . . . . .. 11 Pontdudarlas . . . . . . . . 18 Llandilo Yawr . . . . . . 15 Swansea . . . . . . . . . . .. 27 Llandovery . . . . . . . . .. 29 St. David’s . . . . . . . . . . 48 Lampeter . . . . . . . . . 24 St. Clears . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Llanstephen . . . . . . . . .. 8 Tenby (by Coach Road) 26 Carmarthen is a large, irregular, and ill built town, but at the upper part of Lammas street, in Union street, and at Picton terrace, there are many handsome modern buildings. The town is picturesquely situated on the west bank of the T owy, about 9 miles from its mouth. Most of the streets are of moderate width, but hilly and uneven. The favorite walk is in front of the town, on a gravelled walk overlooking the Tow)‘. There is a handsome monument erected in front of Picton terrace, to the memory of that distinguished warrior Sir Thomas Picton, who was a Welshman, having been born at Poyston, in Pembrokeshire : the base of the monument is broad and solid, surmounted at each corner by piles of arms, and the names of “Badajoz,” “Waterloo,” and “ Picton,” engraved on the squares, above is a lofty column. Another monument stands in Nott Square to the memory of Gen. Sir William Nott, whe is reputed to have been a townsman, and who died here after his return from the east. A third monument is raised is CARMARTHEN—PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 141 Lammas street, in commemoration of the Officers and Privates of the Welsh Fusiliers Who fell in the Crimea. The shells of two Priorz'cs are visible, one in Priory street and the other in Friars’ park. St. Peter’s Church contains some fine monuments. Efligies of the great Sir lihys ap Thomas and his lady lie recumbent, the Warrior clad in plate armour, and at the feet of his Wife is placed a dove. Sir Richard Steele, after dissipating his fortune, retired to his Wife’s relations in Carmarthen, Where she had some property, and died at Llangunnor, near that town, in 1729, and Was buried in a vault belonging to the Surlock family. He Wrote his comedy of the “ Conscious Lovers,” and other dramatic pieces and essays in a house afterwards converted into the Ivy Bush Hotel. The British sage “Merlin,” Who flourished about the year 480, Was born here. It is recorded of this mighty Wizard that he became enamoured of awater nymph, known by the appellation of the “ Lady of the Lake,” who rej ectcd his addresses, and, to rid herself of his importunities, induced him to descend a subterranean passage, about three miles from the town, and whilst there she entombed her admirer alive, by placing a stone over the entrance. It is called Merlzbz’s Cave to this day,'andthe hill containing the cave is called Efcrlz'n’s 112'”. The principal buildings are the Gaol, the Market; House, the Assembly #Rooms, the Barracks, the In» firmary, the Union. Workhouse, the Gas ‘Vorks, the Custom House, the Catholic Churches, the old and new Churches, the Guildhall, andthe South Wales Training College. Carmarthen was considered the capital of all 142 CARMARTHEN—CASTLE. Wales, and recognised as such when the Principality was annexed to England. It was the seat of the \Velsh princes, previous to the seat of royalty being removed to Dinevor. The Castle, after sustaining several sieges by the Normans and Welsh princes, was demolished by order of Parliament, and new forms part of the county gaol. The town has been twice burnt, so that all the ancient vestiges are lost. Carmarthen is governed by a mayor, six aldermen, and eighteen councillors. The assizes for the county are held here twice a year, and the quarter sessions are held alternately here and at Llandilo. In conjunction with Llanelly, the borough returns a member to par- liament. In the vicinity of the town is an extensive tin mill, and there are three iron foundries in the town. The South Wales Railway Station is at Myrtle Hill, about a mile distant, from which place a branch railway leads through the town for Cardigan. Vessels of 300 tons burthen can float up to the harbour. The view from Llangunnor Hill is one of the most beautiful in the neighbourhood. Close on the north side of the town is the site of a Roman camp of large dimensions. POPULATION.—-10,500. COMMERCIAL INNs—Ivy Bush; Boar’s Head. Nnwsrkrnns.—-“ Carmarthen Journal ; "’ “Welshman.” CoNvEYANens—Steamer to Bristol weekly ; Boat to Llanstephan occasionally; Coaches to Llampeter, Aberavon, Aberystruth, Llandilo, and Llanstephan; Railway to Cardigan in progress. ABERGWILI PALACE—VALE or TOWY. 143 VALE OF TOWY. ‘filltl‘gmill' is two miles from Carmarthen, on the road to Llandilo Vawr, and seated on the banks of the river Towy, Abarga'z'll Palace is the residence of the Bishop of St. David’s, being the only one of the seven residences formerly belonging to the bishopric, which is habitable. It is a handsome Elizabethan mansion, and its grounds, which are ornamental, overlook the Towy. It is one of the most complete episcopal palaces in the kingdom, At Abergwili the brave Llewellin subdued his rebellious subjects, headed by Rhun, a Scotsman. N car to this place is G/rongar Llz'll, the spot which the poet Dyer has celebrated in his verse. Marks of a Roman encampment can be traced from this eminence. Golden Grove on the opposite side of the river. On approaching Llandilo Vawr Dyna/tor Castle is seen, seated upon a lofty hill clothed with venerable oaks, once the regal seat of the Cambrian monarchs, The last prince who inhabited it was Rhys a]; Tew Dav“ Mawr, an ancestor of George Talbot Rice, Baron Dynevor. It was besieged by the forces of Henry I, in 1226, which were defeated by Llewellyn, prince of North \Vales. .Nen‘ton Par/u, a picturesque spot, and Middleton Hall, a beautiful mansion, are in the vicinity. ST. CLEARS, A station on the South Wales Railway, is about eight and a half miles from Carmarthen, and is a long strag- gling village, situated at the junction of the rivers Afon Gynin and Dewi-fawr with the T aff. The name of the 144 sr. CLEARS—REBECCA RIOTS. place is derived from Lady Santa Clara, who is said to have founded the town in the sixth century. There are almshouses here, founded by Lady Drummond, sister of James I., who was interred in the church, and slight vestiges of a castle. In 1848, serious outrages were committed in this district, arising from the heavy imposts of turnpike gates, known by the name of “ Rebecca Riots.” A mob of about 600 men assembled at St. Clears, headed by a mysterious tall man, in women’s garments, and made nightly attacks on the turnpike gates throughout the county. On the leader saying, in \Velsh—J‘ My daughters, this gate has no business here, has it?” down went the gate and the tollman’s dwelling. Rewards were offered in vain. The military was called out, but were continually mis- led by false alarms. Matters became more serious. Dwelling-houses were set on fire ; an old woman, gate~ keeper at Hendy, was killed, and the utmost agitation was kept up ; Carmarthen was entered in broad day- light, by horse and foot, with the intention to destroy the workhouse, the new poor law being obnoxious to the people ; but a detachment of dragoons galloped into the town and captured some of the mob. “ tebecca and her daughters” also destroyed a weir on the river Tivy, which prevented the salmon from ascending the stream. At length, finding it vain to resist the law, and on a promise being made to redress the grievances, this outbreak died away. Two of the ringleaders, who were transported, made a full confession, implicating many respectable persons. Laagharae is three miles distant from St. Clears. It LAUGHARNE—WHITLAND. 145 is a clean well built little town, situated in a seques- tered spot on the sea shore, and may be reached by a marine excursion from 'l‘enby. The tOWIl is suited to those who wish to live in economic retirement. Its British name was Aher Coran, from its site on the con- fluence of the river Coran with the Taf. By crossing a ferry, Llanstephan, 3m. is reached. Towards the end of the town, close on Carmarthen bay, is the ruin of a Castle, which, although not extensive, has an imposing aspect towards the town. It was built by the Princes of Dynevor; occupied by the Normans and Flemings on their conquest of these parts, and afterwards besieged and destroyed by Llewelyn ap J orwerth in 1215. It was rebuilt by Sir Guido de Brian in the reign of Henry III. Roche Castle, another ruin, is about a mile distant I’orL'LATIoN-~2011. INN—Castle. \VHITLAND, The next station on the South \Vales Railway, is 5%1'11. from St. Clears. It has vestiges of an ancient Abbey. A few miles from Whitland is C'il mach ZZwg/al, an eminence on which coins of Caesar, Domitian, and other Roman emperors have been found. Soon after passing Whitland, you enter yrmhrnkraljru. The inhabitants of this county are composed of de- scendants of the Dutch, of English, and of Welsh. In the reign of William Rufus, William de Tours, a N or- man knight made a conquest of this part of the country. S 146 PEMBROKESHIRE.—NARBERTH. Another Norman in 1092 settled in Pembroke, and could not be driven out by the Welsh. In 1106, the Flemings, in the reign of Henry I, having been scattered from the low countries by inundations, were compelled to seek new habitations, and were by that monarch, out of respect to his queen, Maud, daughter of Baldwin, earl of Flanders, admitted into England in such numbers, that their presence became burdensome and dangerous to the nation, and the king was induced to remove them from the north of England, where they first settled, to the parts of Pembrokeshire already possessed by the Normans and Saxons, viz., Pembroke, Tenby, and the opposite shores of Grower, for the purpose of harrassing and subduing the WVelsh. By planting this hardy and industrious race in these places to maintain their ground by the sword, it contributed in a great measure to keep the \Velsh in awe; and afterwards, in consequence of the predominancy of the English language in these parts,‘ the district gained the appellation of “ Little England beyond \Vales.” It is no wonder then, that in parts of a county so peopled, deep rooted prejudices should exist even to the present day. In 1797, a French banditti landed and invaded the country, but were soon repulsed and captured. Pembrokeshire con- tains many Druidical remains, and the great Roman road runs through the county. The coast comprises fine natural harbours. The next station reached is NABBERTH ROAD, At which place coaches await the arrival of the trains to convey passengers through N arberth and Templeton t0 Ttinliy. NARBERTH—HAVERFORDWEST. ‘147 fiflfhtl‘tl] is miles distant from the station, 13m. from Pembroke, and 10 miles from Tenby. It is a poor and antiquated market town, situated on a branch of the Milford river, and shares with Haverfordwcst and other places in the elective franchise, with a population of about 2,820, of which about 550 are included in the borough. The ivied ruins of the Castle are prominent and picturesque. On the first introduction of the Normans into Pembrokeshire under Arnulph de Mont- gomery, this place became the possession of Sir Stephen Perrott, and the castle was probably erected by his son, Sir Andrew Perrott, who garrisoned it with Flemings, who were new settlers. Its succeeding possessors were the Lord Marchers in the time of Edward III, and Richard, Duke of York, heir to the last Roger, Earl of March. The duke granted it to the Bishop of St. Davids and Griffith Nicholas, grandfather to Sir Rhys ap Thomas. Leland calls it, “ a praty pile of old Sir Reeses, given unto him by Henry VIII. There is a poor village, and by it a little forest.” The manor, castle, and all privileges annexed to them are the pro- perty of the Baron de Eutzer, obtained by marriage with the heiress of the late Nathaniel Phillipps, Esq. A ride through a picturesque valley, watered by the Cleddon, leads to Lanhuadain Castle. INN.———D6 Rutzer Arms. HAVERFORDWEST. MILES MILES Broadhaven . . . . . . . . 6 N arberth Road . . . . . . 11%’— Cardigan . . . . , _ , . , , . , 26 Narberth , . , _ , , _ , _ _ . _ 143E Carmarthen . . . . . . . . 31 I’icton Castle . . . . . . . . 5 Fishguard , . _ , _ , , _ _ , 14 Pembroke . . . . . . . . . . 11 London . . . . . . . . . . . . 27553,; St. Davids . . . . . . . . . . 16 Milford . . . . . . . . . . , _ . _ 9% Tcnby . . . . . . . - . - . . . . 24,3; I48 HAVE BFORDWEST. Haverfordwest, sometimes called Haverford, is said to be a corruption of Aberfroth, signifying the junction of two streams. It is a seaport, market town, and borough, both parliamentary and corporate, and is the county town. It is beautifully situated on an acclivity, and the vale is watered by the Dew Cleddan. It was formerly fortified, and said to have been dismantled by the forces of Cromwell. The keep of its castle, said to have been founded by Gilbert de Clare, new forms the county gaol. The river is navigable for small craft up to the bridge. The streets are well paved and lighted, but very steep, and contain many good modern houses. The town is governed by a mayor, sheriff, and sixteen councilmen. The assizes are held here twice in the year. The sheriff, by virtue of his ofilce, is lord of the manor. The South Wales Railway Company have extended their line through here to Neyland Ferry, which is within three miles of Pembroke. There are four churches, viz., St. Thomas’s St. Mary’s, St. Martin’s, and Pendergast. The parade coni- mands an extensive view of the country, with the remains of the ancient abbey and priory of Black Canons, supposed to have been founded by Robert de Haverford, lord of the town, about the year 1200. Cottons and woollens were fabricated here at a very early period, by the Illemings, but are new extinct. The neighbourhood carries on an extensive trade in butter and corn with Bristol and Liverpool. It is a thoroughly English town, and the locality is found to be an agreeable and pleasant place of residence. PUBLIC BUILDINGS-—Th6 Guildhall; New Corn Market; Bank; MILFORD. 149 Free Grammar School; National School; Union \Vorkhouse; Lunatic Asylum. PoPULA'rIoN—~5949, COMMERCIAL INNs—Castle; Mariners’ Hotel; Salutation. Coxviziiiivens—~Yan to Fishguard; Omnibus to Milfbrd Haven; Coach to Newport; Omnibus to St. David’s twice a week. Nnwsrxrnns—Pembrokeshire Herald; Petter’s Electric News, and the Haverfordwest aad Milford Haven Telegraph. , MILFORD, Eight miles distant from Haverfordwest, is a seaport town, and, until the last two years, the trade of the place was insignificant. It is now rapidly improving, and plans are devised for erecting terraces on a magni- cent scale, and forming extensive docks at New Milford. It is anticipated that this place, being the terminus of the South Wales Railway, and its being made a govern- ment packet station, will rise to great importance. The old town of Milford is situated on a slope overlooking the haven. It formerly was noted for its docks and quays, but government having removed the royal dock yard to Pater, a distance of about six miles up the arm of the haven, gave a blow to its prosperity. Milford haven altogether comprises five bays, ten creeks, and thirteen roadsteads. It may be entered day or night without a pilot, taking the tide only, and vessels may run ashore within it in complete safety on a bed of ooze. In the year 17841, the Hon. Charles F raneis Greville, struck with the extent and security of the haven, and with its commercial advantages, conceived the plan of erecting a new town, and proceeded to put it into execution. with great spirit. These sanguine expectations were not realised, and instead of rising to a fine commercial city, it remained a quiet little town. 150 MILFORD. Milford Haven has been immortalized by the great poet of the Avon. In Cymbeline he makes Imogen say, on receiving the letter from her husband ;— “ IIear’st thou Pisanio? He is at Milford Haven : read, and tell me How far tis thither. If one of mean affairs May plod it in a week, why may not I Glide thither in a day.” Little could the great poet have supposed when he composed this figure of speech, that what he said would prove literally true, for the distance from London to Milford is now accomplished in 9 hours. Again Imogen says ;- “ How far it is To this same blessed Milford: and, by the way Tell me how ‘Vales, was made so happy, as To inherit such a harbour.” It was here also, that the Earl of Richmond, after- wards Henry VII, landed immediately before the battle of Bosworth Field. H e embarked with about 2000 men, at Harfieur, in Normandy, August 1st, 1485, and landed at Milford Haven on the 7th. He was joined by Sir Rhys ap Thomas with a large force. Richmond then directed his course to Wales, hoping the inhabitants would receive him cordially as their countryman. According to Shakespeare, Sir \Villiam Catesby in announcing this fact to Richard III, says :-~ “My liege, the Duke of Buckingham is taken, That is the best news. That the Earl of Richmond Is with a mighty power, landed at Milford, Is colder news, but yet they must be told.” and Lord Stanley in announcing to Sir Christopher MILFORD. 151 Urswiek, that his son George Stanley, is held hostage by King Richard, says :— “ If I revolt, ofl“ goes young George’s head: The fear of that withholds my present aid, lint tell me Where is princely Richmond now. Chris—At Pembroke or at Ha’rfordwest in ‘Vales. Stanley—“That men of note resort to him. C/zrisz‘.——§ir “falter Herbert, a renowned soldier; Sir Gilbert Talbot, Sir William Stanley ; Oxford, redoubted Pembroke, Sir James Blunt, A‘nd Rhys ap Thomas, with a valiant crew ; And many others of great fame and Worth, And towards London do they bend their course, If by the way they be not fought Withal. StanZey.-‘Vell, hie thee to thy lord, commend me to him ; Tell him the queen hath heartily ronsented He shall espouse Elizabeth her daughter: These letters Will resolve him of my mind, Farewell.” Milford is famed for oysters, they are much smaller than those caught at Tenby or the Mumbles, but of more delicate flavor. TNN——South \Vales Hotel. CONVRYANCEB.——St€amers to and from \Yaterford daily, in con- nexion With the Express Trains from Paddingtcn. Cabin, 12s. 6d. ; Deck, Ts. 6d. Steamer to and from Cork, twice a Week, Cabin 15s., Deck 8s. Omnibuses from the trains to Pembroke and Tenby. PATER, With its Dock Yards and Barracks stands on the oppo- site side of the Ferry. The town is principally oom- pose of miniature White-washed houses, the dwellings of the workmen employed in the Royal Dock Yard. PEMBROKE. Is about 2111, distant. It consists of one long irregu- 152 TENBY. lar street. The remains of a fine Castle, the propertj,v of the powerful Earls of Pembroke, and birthplace of Henry VII, is built on a rock, on a creek of the Haven. TENBY. The Gem of South “Tales, is a much frequented Wa- tering place. A description of the town Will be found in the local Guide, published by Mr. Mason. PLANTS FOUND IN NEIGHBoURHoon—Aquilegia vulgaris; Althaea offieinalis; Asplenium marinum; Cranibe maritima; Coma— rum palustre; Crithmum maritimum; Catabrosa aquatica; Erodium mosehatum; Eryngium maritinlum; Erica tetralix; Glaueium luteum; Genista Angliea; Gentiana Amarella; Hutehinsia petraea; Helianthemum vulgare; Habenaria bi- folia; Inula Helenium; Lavatera Arborea; Linum augusti— folium; Lythrum salicaria; Lithospermum purpurea-eeru- leum; Malva mosohata; Menyanthes trifoliata ; Myrica Gale; Osmunda regalis; Ranuneulus Lingua; Reseda fruticulosa ; Saponaria otficinalis; Seduin Telcphium; Serulata tinctoria; Salvia Verbenaca; Samolus Valcrandi ; Statice spathulata; Salsora Kali; Sagittaria. sagittifolia; Valeriana rubra; Ver- baseum Blattaria, &e. SHELLS ON THE SANDS.-~—S()l0n genus; spieies Vagina ; Siliqua; Ensis; Legumen, 850. species of the Tellina, and Mactra lutraria. EXeUnsIoNs—l. Along the sands and coast road to Waterwineh; Monkstone point, Trevaine, 3111.; Saundersfoot, 5m. ; Ainroth, Newton, 8 m. and from thence to Laugharne, 16 m. from Tenby. 2. Along the south sands t0 Giltar, Penally, and Lydstep bay, and the coast road to Manorbeer Castle, 6111.; Stackpool Court, 12111.; Pembroke 15m. POPULATION.——3220. COMMERCIAL AND FAMILY INNS .—-Cobourg : \Vhite Lion. CONVEYANCES.-——COBCllGS to N arberth Road, Pembroke, and Pater. FINIS. i PRINTED AT THE OBSERVER OFFICE, USK, MONMOUTHSHIRE. ADVERTISEMENTS. TEETH- MEssRs. GABRIEL’S INVENTION. ' THE most extraordinary improvements of the day are those by . which ARTIFICIAL MINERAL TEETH, with Flexible Coralite Gums are rendered indestructible, and consequently everlasting, thus l dispensing with the further services of the Dentist. The workmanship is of the first order, the materials of the best quality {'5 only, and are guaranteed to remain sweet for any number of years. When necessary, complete sets may be fitted with the utmost accu- racy with a visit of one hour, without springs, wires, or metals, and without any operation; while an amount of suction and self-adhesion ‘isjgperfectly astonishing is obtained, rendering the Teeth immoveable it except at pleasure. These Teeth are not affected by the ordinary .ichanges of the mouth, or by the loss of teeth, while residents at a Edistance can adjust them without the aid of a Dentist. GABRIEL’S PRACTICAL TREATISE 0N ARTIFICIAL TEETH, AND THE ONLY EFFECTUAL MODE 0F SUPPLYING THEM, Post Free, Three Stamps, Explains their numerous Improvements. MESSRS. GABRIEL, THE OLD ESTABLISHED DENTISTS, ~ (See Diploma, 1815.) LONDON, 27, HARLEY Sr, Oavnnnrsn 8a., 8a 34, LUDGATE HILL. . LIVERPOOL, 134, DUKE STREET. BIRMINGHAM, 65, NEW STREET. AMERICAN MINERAL TEETH, Best ciin Europe, from Four to Seven and Ten Guineas per set, warn :ante . ' GABRIEL’S CHEMICALLY PREPARED WHITE eu'rm PERCHA ENAMEL, is the best Stopping extant for Decayed Teeth or Tooth-ache, nd no matter how far decayed, renders the injured member again und and useful, and prevents Toothache. This preparation is en- 11'el)’ free from any metallic substance, and as its name signifies, specially prepared for the purpose. Price 1s. 6d. per box, with irections for use. Also the Royal Toot-h Powder, prepared from recipe as used by her Majesty, 1s. 6d. and 2s. 6d.per box. *1?‘ Regular and punctual attendance at Shrewsb'uryflevery Satur. day; Hereford 1st and 3rd Friday; Worcester every other Wednesday d hursday; also in North Wales-particulars on application. it ADVERTISEMENTS. RAGLAN, MOIWMOUTHSHIRE. BEAUFORT ARMS, FAWMLY HCOJTEL also eosrme Gentlemen Families boarded on. Board/mg House T arms. \VINES AND SPIRITS or THE cHoieEs'r QUALITIES. Neat Post Carriages of all descriptions, with able Horses and careful Drivers. WELL AIRED BEDS—GQOD STABLING—LOCK-UP eoAeH HOUSES. Parties supplied in the ruins of the Castle, if required. The above House affords ample Arieonimodation for Tourists and Visitors to the celebrated Ruins of Raglan Castle. The situ- ation is very healthy. A pack of Fox Hounds meet twice a week in the neighbourhood. Rail to all parts of the Kingdom. Raglan is situated from Abcrgavenny 9miles; Criekhowell, 15; Eek, 6; Newport, 16; Pontypool, 12; hIonmouth, 8; Ross, 18; Tintern Abbey, 12; Chepstow, 13; Crumlin Viaduct, 16; and Rag- lan Station, i mile. ELIZA EDWARDS, Proprietress. tynmmruiul @1111 1111i lasting 315mm, PRIORY STREET & CHURCH STREET, MONMCUT H. WILLIAM KING, PRCPRIETOR. Agent to the Great PVestern Railway, OIHNIBUSES TO AND FROM EACH TRAIN. Royal Mails and Coaches to and. from Ross Station daily. FIXED CHARGES roe TOURISTS. Posting in all its branches. Hearses and Mourning Coaches. , ewe: ADVERTISEMENTS KING’S HEAD HOTEL, ,ifumilg, @nmnarriul 2< Tinting 16111152 SITUATED OPPOSITE THE SOUTH WALES, HEREFORD, & PONTYPOOL Railway Stations, AND \VITHIN A FEW DOORS OF THE LANDING 0f the BRISTOL STEAM PACKETS, NEWPORT, Monmouthshire. JOHN LLOYD, Proprietor. 1V. B. Hearses, Mourning Coaches, and Chariot. USK, MONMOUTHSHIRE. ,1 D‘? 9 Q ‘if: ‘U 1. W t s s ti a Family and Commercial Hotel, \YITHIN A FEW’ YARDS OF THE TO'WN HALL, .HMMES JCNES, Proprietor. MONMOUTH. sTEREosooPro REPOSITORY, CHURCH STREET. IR _ WAUGI—I, STATIONER, MUSIC SELLER, 800- Has now on sale a great variety of beautiful STEREOSCOPIC VIEWS of the celebrated Ruins of TINTERN ABBEY, RAGLAN’, CHEPSTOW, Goonnrerr CASTLE, &C. &c. One Shilling each. * a * Piano Fortes and Harmoniums Sold, Tuned, and Let on Hire. ADVERTISEMENTS. JUST PUBLISHED, PRICE ONE SHILLING. TAYLOR’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE TO THE BANKS OF THE WYE, INCLUDING CHEPSTOW, MONMOUTH, sees, merger-esters, WINDCLIFF, TINTERN ABBEY, RAGLAN CASTLE, GOODRICH CASTLE, And many other parts of the Welsh Borders. W'z'th Six 00Z0u/red Steel Engram'ngs and copious Map. Published by ROBERT TAYLOR, Beaufort Square, Chcpstow. LITHOGRAPHIC and STEREOSCOPIC VIEWS of the Neighbourhood in great variety. ADVERTISEMENTS. HIGH STREET, TENBY- “SUN INN,” OPPOSITE THE MARKET HOUSE. ~v~~vvwvvvvv \Jvwy GEORGE STONE, WINE, SPIRIT, ALE, PORTER MERCHANT, IN BOTTLE AND DRAUGHT. osoecs STONE, ljIiqMBER AND GENERAL Uitnsilligsn. LIST OF WORKS PRINTED AND PUBLISHED R. MASON, HIGH S'l‘REET, TENBY. History and Antiquities of St. David’s, by the Rev, W. B. Jones and E. A. Freeman, copiously illustrated, 1 vol. 4t0. £2. Norrls's Architectural Antiquities of St. David's. Folio, containing 18 copper plates, giving an accurate representation of what St. Davids was 50 years ago. 15s. Williams ab Ithel’s, Rev. J., Dt'uidic Stones, 6d. Freeman’s, E. A., Account of Llantlatf Cathedral. 8V0. cloth, 58. Freeman’s, E. A., Arcliitectt ral Antiquities of Gower, 1s. Clark's, G. T., Kitlwelly and t aerphilly Castles, 8V0. cloth, 5s. Clurk’s, Gr. '1‘., History of Kidwelly Castle, Zs. Conybeare, Very Rev. ‘W. 1)., History of Llandafi' Cathedral, 1!. Purnell’s, T., The Englishry 0t‘ Pembrokeshire and its Dialect, 6d. Stephens’s, T., Mic Dinbych. The Eulogy ot' Tenby, 8d. S_vmons’s, Jelinger, Milford, Past, Present, and Future, 6d, Hull’s, All‘. and lllrs. S. C., Tenby: its History, Antiquities, Scenery, g‘faditions, and Customs. Illustrated with 50 woodcuts and 3 ap, 4s. lMason’s, R., Guide to Tenby, Fourth Edition, with a Map, 25. Tales and Traditions of Tenby, ‘2s. Falconer’s. R. W., 1M.A., Catalogue of Tenhy Plants, 18. Norris’s, The Late 0., Historical Sketch 0t’ Tenby, ls. Smith's, the Rev. J. B., historical Sketch 0t Tenby, 6d. A Week’s Walk in Grower. By the Author of M urray’s Hand-Book 7 to South Wales, 1s. Tenby Bone Caves. By a Pemhrokeshire Rector, 1s. Gwynne’s, Mrs, Sketches of Tenby and its Neighbourhood. Second ' Edition, 35,6(l, Views of Tenby and its Neighbourhood. Books containing 6 views, 7 6d.; 16 ditto, 13, Larg? Lithographic Views of Tenby, at 1s. 6d. and 5s. each. Norris’s Etchings 0f the Architectural Antiquities of Tenby, com- plete, 105. 6d. A 1)‘? EH!‘ [SE H E X TS KING’S EEAD MHOTEL, MONMOUTH. BARRETT 65 ‘WEBB PROPRIETORS. W FAMILIES, TOURISTS/g COMMERCIAL G E N T L E M E N Will find every Accommodation at the above old-established Hotel. It may not be generally known that KING CHARLES the First was once accommodated here on one of his travels, and over the fire-place in the bar is the Head of His Majesty with the letters CR, carved in oak, in compliment to the monarch from WllOIll the Hotel takes its name. POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. Jfameral ('farnagvss. AN ()MNIB US TO MEET EVERY TRAIN. WILLIAM SAUNDERS, NURSERYMAN AND AGRICULTURAL AND ' f HORTICULTURAL _ affiflj'SEEDSMANy-Vwy N1‘ “I // " 'é'w ‘ ll 11, CROSS-STREET, _ A B ER 0 AV E N N Y. ~ "f -- i ‘)1 ‘I: Every requisite for the Farm and. Garden on the most Reasonable Terms. A ])V ERTISEM 1'?! TS. '—7~m—“>‘M ‘' “Au/mu.“ "WT ,ifumilq Huh tt’ummmiul file! Is most delightfully situated, commanding an extensive "iew of VAT-£13379 & IBEAU’ZPIILF’UIL SSENERY, And highly attractive to Tourists from its proximity to the celebrated @QBLDBE‘E‘ @QESE‘EJBEQ Andthe FAR-FAMED LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL. MARINE HOUSE, THE MUMBLES, NEAR SWANSEA. entrants PRISKEE’L‘, REsPEcTFULLr informs parties visiting the Seaside, that they will meet with most comfortable accommoda- tion at his house as above. The House contains 8 bed- rooms and 3 sitting rooms, and is delightfully situated at the extremity of the village, contiguous to the beach, and commanding an extensive view of‘the Bay and Town of Swansea. A Cottage adjacent thereto, under the management of Miss Priekett, will be found very convenient for Smaller families or single persons. TERMS MODERATE. LDVERTISEMENTS. CARMARTHEN. J. H. SMITH & Co. MEDICAL AND CHEMICAL HALL, KING STREET, (ESTABLISHED IN 1806). enemses ANZD) wane anti ipmt merrbants, Genuine Drugs used and well elified Assistants employed to ‘ dispen them. W'ines and Spirits of the best quality, 501d in quantities to suit purchasers. JOHN GWYTHER, S W A N I N N, OLD BRIDGE, HAVER'FORDWEST. wit glmh eemnleeernt e ennui? newer... CARMARTHEN. E. EVANS. Auctioneer and. Land Agent. 1s ‘A. J, . Protected Letters 101 . Patent. by a" / HE CHAMPION LIVER dc STOMACH PILLS. These Pills are compounded from the recipe of one of the most eminent Physicians of the day ; are pre- pared by an able and experienced chemist, and are ac- kowledgcd by the Faculty to be the most valuable medi- dine for all disorders of the stomach and derangements of the liver, ever prepared. Try a box, numerous testimonials have been given of their efiicacy. Sold in boxes, 1s. ltd. each, by Messrs. Barclay and Sons, wholesale agents, London; by J. H. Clark, Book- seller, Usk; Thomas Roderick, Druggist,Pontypool; and all Medicine vcnders. TESTIMONIAL. Gwehelog, December, 1859. Sim—After sufi'ering for several years from acute pains in my side, back, chest, and stomach, and after calling in several medical men and trying every remedy, I still suf- fered severely from the complaints. At length I was in- duced to try the “ CHAMPION LIVER AND STOMACH PILLS," sold by you. The first box gave me great relief. I then purchased a second box, its contents completely eradicated the disease, and I am now in perfect health. Having received so much benefit from these pills myself, I think I am only doing a service to the public in recommending em. JOHN ROBERTS. To Cunu, Bookseller, Usk. Newport, March 11, 1861. For a very long time I experienced Sickness of the Stomach, Pains in the Back and Side, Giddiness in the Head, and great Debility. Having heard the “ CHAMPION PILLS” spoken of among my friends, I determined to try them, and am happy to state, that they completely re- moved my complaints. Whenever I am out of order, I take a couple of doses of these pills, and am alllright again. JOHN THOMAS. "53 Sold in Boxes 1s. 1~§~d each, by J. H. CLARK, Usk; (the sole proprietor). T. Roderick, Chemist, Pontypool; W. E. Clark, Bookseller, Chepstow; and the Medicine Vendors in Abergavenny, Monmouth, Tredegar, Cardiff, Swansea, 8w. Wholesale Agents, Messrs.Barclay & Sons, London. Sent by Post for 15 postage stamps. \zk v ADVERTISEMENTS. .AHMEMHODO‘FQ fifimFfiOfiG Qwmm ~Z©w 0% MHQQMQHEW .O A. .95 7:; 1.5 lziu. Tater/é; .5 :T: 7.7: :95; awn 2:75: fie; Kr; .:$ .t. :ZEHTH wmzcacifiu 15c. {elem ieefr 795% {92% fiFQ ‘39:5 :3 a?’ .Epfifié B .SPWQESQ Eofi cotkfw R595 8‘ 09¢ omfiég @SPEQ 22cm EZMQV $59,,“ ciiqw Him “iv/Em .EtFoE “356% 5.5% .Spmuw we’? .95; 56 E wimzbflw $395 In 3 cowzofiq HEEMPSQ fiEbEw of 93am 3 @3556 :21 9; £23 wmobwm E5 925% S‘ 253 .Sfibfi (@5555 33 5 Mmbvfieccz i firm 9; £23 5522 2?? 0a 0.5 1:: Hakim LT“ ?:,:C:_r:: :35 Cain 9:“; lrim 121C .5: 19%EllccmtfilEm iiipi 2T £91m 952* memcPSi 33$ Mow fiE Psi Emu wfioiew 925 P; iéwm 2:. kg 336% PE ,5 0:0 pow .SPSQ .mEW wwwwmfc 95H 3 min Aobsbdpm @FEQEEFH (5.“ ~53 H351 u Q12 3 RASEQQQZ Jfioatamefl gem Efiwrm 55 3 mogfitw we ugué ozgfifiqco t??? @ 396w Q x » .31 .w\ ‘ \vl .nl llllilll ‘| JW tnwl/Mmhrlam a hll‘rWlnMnHlWHl l ‘ \IHM] ‘ t \ tlMlllrilvltl, l‘ 11.13;. 4 \ A- InflluilYo/l ‘ i \Y. t _ c \. ADVERTISEMEN TS. CARDIFF. MUSIC ROOMS, 74, CROCKHERBTOWN, J.H.RIGHTON, Invites attention to his well selected Stock of PIANO PoR'rl-zs, By Broader/‘coal, Collard, li’i'rkman, 0 the?" esteemed Makers. ALEXANDRE’S HARMONIUMS From Six Guineas. TUNING PROMPTLY ATTENDED TO. ADVERTISEMENTS. CARDIFF- "i,"‘e."'n"‘.I".v"~."'n"‘nn"‘.d'"."'n"‘~0"‘. I"¢."'u ‘~n ‘.0 s" , '- a" , "0 G. HOWELL, flBunkmUrr, éiutinmr 25 itnnkhiuhrr. 21, ST. MARY STREET, CIRCULATING LIBRARY, Magazines and Books Regularly Supplied. AN EXTENSIVE ASSORTMENT OF ILLUSTRATED GIFT BOOKS AND HOLIDAY PRESENTS. lllllll i I I l I lwlcitilllll l.llll awe LATELY PUBLISHED. '4 0% 1% anh it; @iggimmylm, CONTAINING A DESCRIPTION OF ) 65’; THE CASTLE, PRIORY, CHURCH, CHARITIES, Cy é‘j CORPORATION, (A), WALEl/is um THE VJCCBHNUTY, 1 5%] 5756 ancient Gilt} of) @crezl’eop, WNW &c. &c. PAPER COVERS, 01m BHILLING; CLOTH, GILT,28. Sold by all the Booksellers in Monmouthshire. “W "@652 THE CHEPSTOW GUIDE, Q5 COMPRISING A DESCRIPTION OF THE % TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD, INCLUDING THE FAR FAME!) TINTERN ABBEY AND WINDCLIFF': Sold by W. E. CLARK, Bookseller, Chepstow.