WHER SEA GIRT GRAD F 72 N2 86M 1906 IMICH ARTES 721817 SCIENTIA LIBRARY VERITAS OF THE UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN վայր TUEBOR SI-QUÆRIS PENINSULAM-AMŒNAM. CIRCUMSPICE THE GIFT OF Mrs. John H. Leete 000- 00- 00 00. 00 00- 1000- 000000000000000000000000 000 0000- 00- UNIV OF Copyright, 1899, 000- by H. S. Wyer. 00- NANTUCKET IN 1862. -00- -00- -00- 00- 00- LA 00- J000- 000000000000000000000000< 00- 000- ор SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET A HAND-BOOK OF HISTORICAL AND CONTEMPORANEOUS INFORMATION FOR VISITORS. SECOND EDITION. "The Truth Without Fear or Favor." COMPILED AND PUBLISHED BY HENRY S. WYER, NANTUCKET, 1906. F 72 NZ W98 1906 C 220 $19 Copyrighted 1902, by Henry S. Wyer. 1906, " " •N? ་་ NANTUCKET Drawn by W. Stevens From A RECENT GOVERNMENT SURVEY 1902 PUBLISHED BY H. S. WYER. U.S.LS. STATION, MUSKEGET TUCKERNUČK ISLAND į : EEL PT. MADAKET US LS STATION GREAT NECK оллог TROTS HILLS THE PLAINS HEAD OF PLAINS THE WOODS AINS / THE N 1 品 ​BRANT PT. Nantucket HUMMOCK PAND SMOOTH HUMMOCKS MIACOMET POND U.S.LS. STATION S * GREAT PT. LIGHT U.SL.S. STATION COSKA COAT U HARBOR WAUWINE Pocomo SQUAM QUAISE POLPIS SAULS HILLS NORTH PASTIRE GIBBS POND MIDDLE RASTURE SOUTH PASTURE 8 SACHACHA POND SANKOTY LIGHT PLAINFIELD Stasconset SOUTH EAST QUARTER WHOM NIF VERS HEAD PREFACE. 000 In compiling this volume I have carefully examined many books and pamphlets bearing on the subject, and have obtained much valuable information therefrom. At the same time my conviction has been strengthened that the history of Nantucket has yet to be written. It is to be earnestly hoped that the writer who undertakes this important work will bring to his task both courage and sympathy: courage to face unpleasant facts and state them in good plain English; sympathy to see and describe the brighter side. Without such equipment no true or adequate history of a people can be written. To do full justice to the many varying phases of the subject must be the work of numerous writers, each seeing from his own standpoint. My purpose in this little book has been simply to pro- vide, for the use of visitors especially, a condensed account of the island's history from its discovery to the present time. All that is claimed for it is that the facts have been gathered from the most reliable sources. I have been favored in my work with the valuable assistance of several of my friends who have written on special subjects, and others who have aided me in various ways. I also ac- knowledge my indebtedness to the authors from whose works quotations have been made. In the present revised edition accounts are given of several new (or enlarged) enterprises in the town; notably, the Historical Association Building; the Public School for Manual Training; the Local Station of New York Yacht Club; and the Athletic Association's Club House. An Appendix also is added. H. S. W. TO MY FRIENDS BEN AND JENNY S Preface SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 00000 INDEX OF HEADINGS. Page 37 • в 6 9 (( 12 (( 14 66 15 66 18 (C 20 • Poem Voyages of the Norsemen Discovery by Gosnold • Purchase by Mayhew Sale to Nine Purchasers Situation and Physiography Early Nantucket Titles The Nantucket Group The Early Settlers The Indians The Friends • The Whale Fishery Sheep Husbandry • Nantucket in the Revolution (( Emigrations (( "War of 1812 (( "Civil War Prominent People The Town Old Buildings The Atheneum 22 པ 23 34 39 42 52 55 པ (( 61 63 (( 65 (( 71 • (C 83 • (( 85 (( 90 (( 93 94 (C 97 98 66 101 Athletic Club The Historical Association Sons and Daughters of Nantucket Schools. Churches Old Cemeteries Historical Notes Water Works Lighthouses • Life-Saving Service Wrecks. Agriculture and Horticulture Bird Life Fishing and Shooting Boat Sailing • Bathing Bicycling Golf For Artists Nantucket in Literature Flora Fires and Fire Department Roads and Drives Climate Steamboats Nantucket Station, No. 11, N. Y. Y. C. U. S. Weather Bureau Gas and Electric Co. Siasconset Wireless Telegraph Wauwinet Lodges. Societies Town Meeting Past, Present and Future Nantucket Humor. · Page 103 (( 106 (( 110 (l 112 • " 114 (( 117 122 (( 124 126 (( 130 (( 132 " 132 (C 133 "( 134 (" 137 143 145 (( 146 "" 154 (( 162 "164A (( 163 164 (C 165 170 • 179 180 183 • "" 185 188 " 192 SONG IN ABSENCE. 000 I thirst for a breath of the good salt air Fresh-blown from the open sea, And O, mine eyes are aching sair For a "blink o' my ain countrie!" For weary is the worldly strife To a spirit sad and worn, And lonesome is your city's life To one who is Island born. In dreams I fare to the old gray town, And wander forth at will To watch the reddening sun sink down Far over the western hill. On either side of the deep-worn road The sweet wild flowers I see; All friendly-wise, from the moss-grown sod Their faces look up to me; Fair Autumn now her largess yields Of aster and golden-rod, And, purpling all the wayside fields, Gerardia's bell-flowers nod. Like nectar now is the spicy air From fragrant swamp-weeds blown; With breath of pines, and the perfume rare Of marshlands newly mown. Along the line of the distant shore Sparkles the sapphire sea, Where foamy breakers, with ceaseless roar, Seem waving white hands to me. O, changeful sea, with your beckoning wile, You woo me in vain to-day, For never again from this dreamful isle Shall you win my heart away! -H. S. W. The Discoverers of Nantucket. VOYAGES OF THE NORSEMEN. Tradition has long accredited the Norsemen with having visited the Island some eight centuries ago; but probably few of the present inhabitants, to say nothing of visitors, are familiar with the sources of this tradition. The late George Howland Folger, in compiling his manuscript books of "Nantucket Historical Notes, Statistics and Biographical Accounts", begins with selections from various writings on the first discov- erers of America. The compiler of the present vol- ume regrets that, to conform to its limits, he is able to give but a brief summary of these interesting ac- counts. In his preface Mr. Folger says: "The history of the 8th, 9th and 10th centuries is filled with accounts of the maritime expeditions of the Scandi- navians. The ancient history of Iceland is said to be the most perfect of any European country. "The history of the early discoverers of America is contained in the two sagas (original manuscripts) of Eirck the Red and Thorfinn Karlsefin. The former narrative makes part of the beautiful vellum manu- scripts called Codex Flatensis, which is a collection of older histories transcribed from other manuscripts between the years 1387 and 1395. "The manuscript of the later Saga is also on vel- lum; and was evidently written about the close of the thirteenth century. "So much doubt having been exhibited regarding 10 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. the discovery of America by the Northmen, the Royal Society of Northern Antiquaries of Copenhagen under- took the task of collecting what was interesting and valuable on the subject. "In 1837 they published their valuable quarto, writ- ten in Icelandic, Danish and Latin, under the title of Antiquitates Americanae. "This volume contains all that is valuable drawn from contemporary narratives, the writings of schol- ars, and evidences deduced from recently discovered monuments in Greenland, and a critical examination of those already known to exist in this country. "As it is my purpose to examine the published ac- counts, and make extracts only so far as they bear evidence connected with Nantucket, the extracts will of course be limited." Here follow most interesting accounts of these early voyagers, which we are compelled to condense to our limits: In A. D. 982 Thorwald and his son Eirck sailed from Zadar, Norway; they arrived and settled in Ice- land, "then already colonized". In a later voyage Eirck discovered Greenland, A. D. 985. Still later Biorne, son of Hereulf, sailed and dis- covered Newfoundland, and finally "some promontory in the present limits of Massachusetts, possibly Cape Cod." (See article in Putnam's Mag., Nov., 1854.) A. D. 986 to 1000, Leif, son of Eirck, purchased Biorne's vessel, and, with a crew of 35, set sail. The first land they found was the last seen by Biorne. Proceeding southward they reached another land, low and covered with woods. This they named Markland. Again set- ting sail they discovered an island, lying opposite to the N. E. part of main land. Then, passing through a SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 11 bay, between the island and a promontory running to N. E., they passed the latter. In this bay were shal- lows of very great extent. (Note by Mr. Folger) "this description is strikingly applicable to the shores of Buzzard's Bay, Vineyard Sound and adjacent islands." They landed at a place where a river flowed out of a lake, and settled for the Winter and built houses. The lake and river were full of salmon. The soil was rich, climate temperate. Grapes were found inland, also corn. In Spring they loaded the ship with timber and sailed for home. Leif gave this land the name of Winland dat Gode. (The good vineland.) In 1002 Thorwald, brother of Leif, sailed and ar- rived at Leif's dwelling; he then sailed southward, found the country beautiful and well wooded, but uninhabited. Again sailing eastward, they came to a wooded promontory, and landed. Here they found 9 Skraellings (Esquimaux). In an encounter wit these Thorwald was killed by an arrow. He requested to be buried on the headland, with a cross at his head and one at his feet. From that time the place was called Krossanes (Cross-ness). In 1007 Thorfinn Thordson, Bjiorne Grimolfesen and Thorkill Gamlason, in 3 ships, sailed for Vin- land to found a Colony there. Their description of the country, of the river that flowed from lake to sea, closely resembles Leif's account. After the third Win- ter, in Spring of 1010, they returned to Eircksfiord. The writer in Putnam's Magazine (Nov., 1854) re- marks: "It is not hazarding too much to suppose that Vineland is identical with New England. The quaint style of the old Norse idiom carries an atmosphere of truth that disarms doubt, and defies criticism." 12 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. A certain succession of events occurs to each of the expeditions. Hellnland, Markland and Vinland (the three lands of stone, wood and vines) always follow successively to the Northmen sailing a S. W. course from Greenland. These facts of themselves, even without collateral evidence, would suffice to identify these headlands with Newfoundland, Nova Scotia and New England. But there is much other evidence. "Following the course of Leif and Thorfinn, as before described, it would appear that they must have passed through Nantucket Bay and Vineyard Sound, thence up Seaconnet beach, Pocasset River into Mt. Hope Bay." With all these data at hand we are forced to the conclusion that they can correctly be applied only to that part of Massachusetts included within the Old Colony, as well as to parts of Rhode Island bordering on the same. To these we must look for the true locality of Vinland." From the accounts above summarized it seems highly probable that one or more of these Norse voy- agers must have nearly approached Nantucket, if they did not actually land upon it. Any visitor who de- sires to read Mr. Folger's interesting writings on this subject in full can obtain access to a type-written copy at the Historical Association's rooms. 1602. GOSNOLD'S DISCOVERY. The following summary is made from Barry's His- tory of Massachusetts: "The shores of Massachusetts may have been and doubtless were seen before this time, but the discov- ery of Gosnold is the first we are able to authenticate SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 13 by that species of evidence which rises above mere conjecture or strong probability. One year wanting two days before Queen Elizabeth died, Captain Bar- tholomew Gosnold, an experienced navigator, who is said to have already crossed the Atlantic by the usual route of the Canaries and West Indies, set out to sail to America by a westerly course. "Furnished (principally at the cost of Henry, Earl of Southampton, the friend and patron of Shakespeare) with a small bark, the Concord, of Dartmouth, and 32 men, 8 of whom were mariners, 12 planters and 12 adventurers, he sailed from Falmouth, March 26, 1602. On April 14th, they sighted land, St. Mary's, Azores. May 15th again sighted land, an island with large sound between it and the main. Coming to west end thereof perceived a large opening, called it Shoal Hope. Near this Cape we anchored in 15 fathoms, took great store of cod-fish, for which we altered the name and called it Cape Cod. Captain went ashore, found ground full of pease, strawberries, whortle- berries, as yet unripe. "Firewood taken, cypress, birch, witch-hazel and beach. A young Indian came to Captain, had bow and arrow, plates of copper in ears, was willing to help us in our occasions. May 16 we trended the coast south- erly, 12 leagues from Cape Cod, saw a point with some beach, named it Point Care. May 18-Sighted another Point, called it Gilbert's Point, also divers islands. Indians in canoes with skins, tobacco and pipes to barter. May 19-Anchored a league or more beyond Gilbert's Point, lat. 41 2-3. May 21-Went coasting to the supposed isles. Saw a disinhabited island, bore with it, and named it Martha's Vineyard. (This was the island now named Noman's land.) May 24-- 14 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. Doubled the Cape of another island next to Martha's Vineyard, which we called Dover Cliff. This island Capt. Gosnold called Elizabeth's Isle, where we deter- mined our abode." The above account is an extract from the relation of Gabriel Archer, a gentleman in the voyage with B. Gosnold.* * * OBED MACY'S ACCOUNT. Having fallen in with the Cape Shore, he (Gosnold) pursued his course South till he reached Sandy Point, the Southern extremity of the County of Barnstable, in the State of Massachusetts. It being late in the day, to avoid danger, he stood off to sea, and in the night came in sight of the white cliffs at the East end of Nantucket, now called Sankoty Head, the highest land on that part of the island." Purchase by Thomas Mayhew and Son. From the reputed discovery of Nantucket by Gos- nold in 1602 until 1641 there seems to be a long hiatus in its history. At least no historian gives us any light on this period. *The letter of Archer above quoted from seems to be the only account of Gosnold's voyage that is available. Historians differ as to whether the discoverer sailed north or south of Nan- tucket. It seems probable it was north. It has been stated as a fact that the party spent the following Winter on an island lying in a pond on Cuttyhunk Island. A controversy arose among the party on the question of profits of the voyage, and twelve of them returned to England. The writings of Gosnold's companions led directly to further voyages, and the settlement of Jamestown, Va., where Gosnold died Aug. 22, 1607. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 15 On Oct. 13, 1641, the island (then under the juris- diction of New York, was deeded "to Thomas Mayhew and his son Thomas or their assigns" by James For- rett, agent to William, Earl of Sterling. (For deed see Macy's History, p. 18.) This was the first deed of sale of the island of which we have knowledge. From the date of their purchase in 1641 until July 2, 1659, it appears that the Mayhews were the sole owners of the greater part of the island. In 1660 they also purchased from the Indians the "sachem rights" to a large por- tion of the island. (Macy's History, p. 20.) Sale to the Nine Purchasers. On July 2d, 1659, Thomas Mayhew conveyed to "nine purchasers," whose names appear below, "all right and interest that I have on the island of Nan- tucket by patent," etc., etc., the consideration being "thirty pounds of current money and two Beaver hats, one for myself and one for my wife". (For deed see Macy's History, p. 19.) "The nine original purchasers," viz.: Tristram Cof- fin, Richard Swain, Peter Coffin, Stephen Greenlief, William Pile, Thomas Macy, Thomas Barnard, Chris- topher Hussey, and John Swain; Thomas Mayhew, retaining one-tenth of the Island, together with Mais- quatuck or Quaise. Each of the above chose an "associate" with whom to settle the Island, viz.: Tristram Coffin, Jr., John Smith, Robert Pike, Robert Barnard, Thomas Cole- man, Edward Starbuck, Nathaniel Starbuck, Thomas Look, James Coffin, Thomas Mayhew, Jr. "The island was now fairly purchased of the orig- inal patentees, and a greater part of it of the natives. 18 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. It was owned by an association, most of whom resided in Salisbury, Essex County, Mass. The purchasers immediately began to make their arrangements to move thither with their families, and to improve the land." (Macy, p. 22.) (From Mr. Worth's letter it appears that they did not remove to the island until the Summer of 1661.) Soon after taking possession they found it neces- sary to still further increase their numbers, especially to encourage the immigration of mechanics and arti- As an inducement they offered to such as might come to them shares in all privileges enjoyed by them- selves. sans. "By this means the number of shares was increased to 27, which still continues to be the number of shares, under the denomination of the common and undivided land on the island. These 27 shares include the whole island, except the place called Quaise or Maisquetuck, which Thomas Mayhew reserved for him- self when he conveyed the island to the 9 purchasers." (Macy, p. 33.) Other "sachem rights" were from time to time pur- chased by the settlers, until finally the whole of Nan- tucket and the adjacent islands became theirs. (See chapter on the Indians.) From the Inquirer and Mirror of Jan. 5th, 1902, the following interesting and authoritative account is copied. Where the Town was First Located. BY HENRY B. WORTH. The purchasers of the island of Nantucket held their last meeting in Salisbury, Massachusetts Bay, SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 17 May 10, 1661. During the following two months they left the land of the Puritan for their island home. The next meeting was held July 15, 1661, at Nan- tucket. This band of settlers selected their houselots along the chain of ponds extending from Cappaum Harbor southward to the sea. Here the town was located, until, over a dozen years later, many of the inhabitants had built houses at Wesco, the present location of the town. On the map prepared by Dr. Ewer, at the west end of the island, at Maddaket, is designated "the site of the first town." As the first inhabitants set- tled at Cappaumet, this designation must be an error, or it is a tradition having some historical basis. The records show the latter supposition to be correct. Before the purchasers settled the island, it had been visited and explored by several of their num- ber. Tristram Coffin, Thomas Macy and John Cole- man were there in June and July, 1659, and during the next January Edward Starbuck secured two Indian deeds. He was on the island with Peter Folger and John Coffin in May, 1660, when another sachem deed was executed. During the same year these purchasers and Richard Swain surveyed and selected their house lots. It may not be far amiss to infer that during the two years between the purchase and settlement of the island, one or more of the owners were there to have charge of the property. They probably lived in a house at Maddaket, built by Edward Starbuck. In March, 1670, certain land was laid out at Maddaket comprising "all the meadow lying between the Long Pond by the old seller built by Edward Starbuck and the way at the head of the creek." Later a grant was made to William Worth including land "at the west- 18 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. ward end of the swampy medo that comes from the Long Pond by the old siller." This cellar had a house over it, and was located where is marked "the site of the first town." Here lived Starbuck and his assist- ants during the two years before the arrival of the company. It was nearest the Vineyard whence came Gov. Mayhew and Peter Folger, and the harbor fur- nished an easy escape from possible depredations of the Indians. This house was not the "town," but a temporary camp occupied by the pioneers while they were preparing homes for the early settlers in the region near the Hummock Pond. Situation and Physiography. Nantucket Island lies in north latitude 41 degrees, 15 minutes, 22 seconds; longitude 70 degrees, 7 min- utes, 56 seconds, and is distant about 28 miles south from Cape Cod, 60 miles southeast from New Bedford, and 110 miles from Boston. Its length is about 14 miles, east and west. Aver- age width north to south 3 1-2 miles. It contains about 30,000 acres. Its shape has, from time immemorial, been subject to changes caused by the action of tides. Within recent years marked changes have occurred at the east and west ends of the Island. On Dec. 17th, 1896, during a severe storm, the sea cut a narrow opening through the low sandy beach at Coskata known as the "haulover." This strip of beach formerly divided the upper harbor from the ocean. The opening by Jan. 10th, 1897, had increased to 150 feet in width and 6 feet in depth at low tide, and has widened considerably since. It forms a convenient SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 19 channel for the fishing-boats entering or emerging from the harbor. It has also converted the Coatue peninsula, with its northern extremity, Great Point, into an island, thus necessitating a cable to the life- saving station at Coskata. At the west end, the long sandy point, called Smith's Point, which appears on Ewer's map, was washed away by the tide in 1869, leaving a wide opening between Nantucket and Tuckernuck, through which a strong tide races constantly. On the south side of the island, in severe storms, the sea undermines the low cliff. By this action consider- able inroads have been made. From Sara Winthrop Smith's interesting "Sketch of the Physiography and Botany of Nantucket," the following quotations are made: "Nantucket is an island belonging to Massachu- setts, but in its physical constitution does not belong to New England. It is a portion of New Jersey thrust up into New England, and really belongs to the coast line extending West and South. One finds evidence of glacial action in every walk. Arctic shells on Sankoty Cliff and Academy Hill are certainly a glacial deposit." In geological times Nantucket was covered with the great ice-sheet. The action of the glacial period is plainly marked upon its physiography. These glacial evidences prove that the island is a ter- minal moraine. * * "In 1847 25 ponds were to be found on the map. All appear to be of glacial origin, and are gradually disappearing." * * ** "Nothing has been more unfortunate for Nantucket than the loss of its trees and thickets." (See in Miss Smith's pamphlet, page 18, "Evidences as to the for- 20 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. mer existence of large trees on Nantucket Island," by Prof. Burt G. Wilder, Ithaca, N. Y.) There are records in existence of many groves of oak-trees in different parts of the Island. One on the North Cliff, another near the present mill, and others at Polpis and elsewhere. These were cut down and used for building purposes. "An old chart in the British records shows Nan- tucket and Martha's Vineyard as six islands Nantucket being entirely different in shape from that of to-day." For further details of Physiography and Botany the reader is referred to the pamphlet from which the above quotations are made. The Early Titles to Nantucket. From Mr. H. B. Worth's pamphlet, "Nantucket Lands and Land-owners" (pub. N. H. A. 1901), the following account is condensed: Thomas Mayhew's deed from Forrett in 1641 was based on a grant from the King of England. The claim of the English Government was based on the voyage of Cabot in 1497. Before occupying the territory Mayhew was also compelled to purchase the "sachem rights" from the Indians then in possession of the islands. After Mayhew had received the Forrett deed he learned that Sir Ferdinand Georges, Governor of Maine, claimed jurisdiction over these islands. He became convinced that the claim was well founded, and received a deed from Georges. This deed does not mention Nantucket, nor was there ever any deed of Nantucket from Georges. Nevertheless the question arose as to whether these SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 21 islands belonged to Massachusetts or Maine; but after Mayhew gave his deed to the 20 purchasers the latter seem to have repudiated Georges' claim, and paid acknowledgment to the New York governor. In 1664 the English King granted to his brother, the Duke of York, considerable territory in the New World, including "the several small islands called Nantukes or Nantucket." The Duke of York then ap- pointed Francis Lovelace Governor of New York and its dependencies. In 1671 the settlers received a new patent from Lovelace, confirming Forrett's deed. This conveyance was to Tristram Coffyn and Thomas Macy, for and on behalf of themselves and their associates. The con- sideration was "four barrels of merchantable codfish to be delivered in New York annually." The conditions of this patent were: 1. The Eng- lish should purchase certain lands from the Indians. 2. Then the English crown would ratify and confirm these purchases. Thus were the rights of the Indians protected by the representatives of the English Government. The capture of New York by the Dutch in 1684 and its subsequent reversion to the English made it neces- sary to obtain another patent. The Dongan patent was a general grant of the entire island, dated June 27, 1687. "It established seven of the settlers a body cor- porate, called the Trustees of the Freeholders of the Town of Sherburne, with liberty to purchase land from the Indian proprietors and confirm unto all per- sons having land on the island their title thereto. The annual tax was one lamb or two shillings, to be paid March 20 at New York." 22 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. "This corporation is the modern proprietary that has had a continued existence ever since that date." "An act of Parliament in 1692 transferred all the islands purchased by Mayhew in 1641 to Massachusetts Province." The General Court of the Province of Massachusetts, May 31st, 1693, enacted a law confirm- ing all titles on Nantucket that were based on grants from the Governors of New York Colony." "Dongan's, 1687, patent is the basis of all titles on Nantucket. It has been preserved, and is in the Reg- istry of Deeds at Nantucket." The Nantucket Group and Their Early Names. The following statistics are quoted from Mr. Henry B. Worth's pamphlet, "Nantucket Lands and Land- owners:" "This group comprises Nantucket, whose area is about 30,000 acres; Tuckernuck, 1260, and Muskeget, 300 acres; together with some small islets between the two latter called Gravelly Islands. "The longest line east and west that can be drawn on Nantucket is 12 miles from Madaket to Siasconset, and the longest north and south is 6 miles from Tom Never's Head to Wauwinet. "The outline of the island is very irregular, its coast line being 88 miles in length. The highest point is 91 feet above sea level, and is located at Saul's Hills. "There are over 20 fresh water ponds, of which the following exceed 20 acres in area: Hummock (called Wauquittaguay by the Indians).320 Sachacha (called Sesagasha by the Indians).....310 Long 215 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 23 Myacomet Gibbs 45 31 23 Capaum (once a harbor). • • "The name 'Nantucket' appears for the first time in 1641 in the deed from Forrett to Mayhew. "It is spelled differently before and since. On the map of De Laet, 1630, it is spelled 'Natocks.' "Tuckernuck is given as Pentockynock, and Mus- keget as Kotget." On various other maps appear "Nantockyte," "Nan- tock." "In 1697 Cotton Mather gave the name 'Nan- toket.' Since Mayhew's purchase it has remained without change." The compound word Nan-tuck-et was found in the Indian Bulletin for 1869, with the translation "it is heard" or "it is sounding" (presumably referring to the sound of the surf on the shoals.) This fact points to the probability that the name as now spelled was the original Indian name, the others being either corruptions or adaptations to various languages.* The Early Settlers. Our knowledge of the settlement of Nantucket by the English during the middle of the 17th century has, until recently, been derived mainly from the mea- gre and unsatisfactory volume of Obed Macy, pub- lished in 1835. In the preface of that book the author remarks: "Probably the reader will discover some omissions; these may be accounted for in two ways: first, the author has been studiously careful rather to omit some trifling affairs, than to wound the feelings of individuals by their recital; secondly, *See appendix 1. 24 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. greatly to his mortification there is very little on record and few documents relating to much of the time embraced within the limits of this history." The latter reason given doubtless accounts to a large ex- tent for the limitations of Macy's History. The for- mer, so naively offered, is suggestive of a common habit of many of the early historians, to say nothing of some later ones, of ignoring unpleasant facts. Certain records of the proceedings of the early settlers, made by themselves, have been published re- cently. By this new light, such of us as are not wil- fully blind may discover that those hardy and ventur- ous spirits were, after all, human; with virtues more strenuous than ours, they combined faults which were equally robust. It is evident that our ancestors, the early Friends, were not always the paragons of humility and self- restraint that certain of their descendants have claimed and still claim. It should also be remembered that in the age in which they lived, bigotry and intolerance were ordin- ary conditions. From the standpoint of the present writer it is not the less possible (but rather the more) to admire and emulate the virtues of our forefathers-their energy, their industry and their indomitable courage. A recognition of their faults simply brings them nearer to us, and begets a fellow-feeling, thus enabling us to form a just estimate. At the last annual meeting of the Historical Asso- ciation an honored son of Nantucket read a paper in which he fitly eulogized the courage and enterprise of those who developed the whale fishery. From this able essay, the opening lines are here quoted: "He SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 25 who writes the history of Nantucket must break away from some of the delusions and traditions of the past, and apply the logic of facts to the settlement and early insular life of our old home, rather than the perhaps more pleasing poetry and glamour of romance." This is well and bravely said, and heartily en- dorsed by the present writer. The orator then proceeded to demolish Obed Macy's hypothesis that the first settlers fled from "an aveng- ing Nemesis," and to assert, in effect, that they came with deliberation, "following out a fixed and definite purpose of settlement." But the sentiments expressed in Mr. Starbuck's prelude reach far beyond the limits of his paper, as he would readily admit. The question of to-day seems to be, do we want history, or are we still to content ourselves with pleasing platitudes about our ancestors (written by their descendants) which serve only to foster our vanity? Why should we fear the truth? and what do we gain by evasion? Why not, for instance, frankly admit (with all due respect and reverence for our an- cestors, the Friends) that the gray mantle which is described by a recent historian as "the peace of a Quaker influence" which was "spread over them pro- portionate to that of Colonial Philadelphia" was in reality far from being an unmixed blessing? Why not admit (what the records clearly prove) that, in many instances, it merely served to cover suppressed fires which would far better have blazed upward toward the stars? No real progress can ever be achieved by a people who lack the courage or disposition to face unpleas- ant facts. There has been too much evasion, too 26 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. much repression, too much pride, and too little cour- age to face the truth. When more of us come to real- ize this, there will be less disposition to hastily crti- cise those who, with the true historical spirit, diligently search the old records and open them to the light of day. To discourage or impede this legiti- mate and necessary work is but to defer the inevitable, for future generations will demand History, and will have it. It is easy to imagine many readers protesting, "Why should we parade the faults of our ancestors? Why not cover them with the mantle of charity and forgetfulness?" Very good, but why should we con- tinue to parade their virtues, and utterly ignore their faults? First of all, let us have the whole truth-not one-half of it. Over that solid foundation we may then build our history and adorn it with sentiment and romance, even as the immemorial rocks on our beloved island are clothed with their mantles of gray lichen, and decked with the wild-rose and the trailing vine. The following brief sketches of some of the prom- inent first settlers have been drawn from various sources, and considerable pains have been taken to verify facts and dates as far as possible. THOMAS MACY. From Macy's History we learn that this "first white settler" came with his family from Chilmark in Wilt- shire, England, about 1635, and settled in Salisbury, Essex Co., Mass. "He lived there in good repute twenty years, and acquired a good interest, consisting of a tract of land of 1000 acres, a good house and con- siderable stock." SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 27 The records state that he was overseer of schools in Salisbury in 1652, Deputy of General Court 1654, Town Clerk of Amesbury 1655. "But when this part of the country became more thickly settled by the English, dissension arose among the people in regard to religion and religious denom- inations." Here follows an account of the persecution of Macy by the colonial authorities in Salisbury. It is stated that "Thomas Macy subjected himself to the rigor of the law by giving shelter to four Quakers, who stopped at his house in a rain storm." Being cited to answer for this offence, he addressed a letter to the court, admitting the facts, but pleading that he "had not willingly offended." He was ordered to pay a fine of 30s. Obed Macy's inference that he left Salis- bury because of this persecution, and that he “sacri- ficed his property and home to his religion" is erron- eous. Naturally, colonial intolerance may have quick- ened his desire to seek a freer atmosphere, but that this was his main motive in leaving is impossible. Witness the fact on record that in 1664 he was again residing in Salisbury, and still retaining his property. In the fall of 1659, according to Macy's History, he embarked from Salisbury in an open boat, with his family, together with Edward Starbuck, Jas. Coffin and Isaac Coleman. Rounding Cape Cod, they pro- ceeded southward, crossing the sound, and landed on Nantucket without accident. This traditional voyage was the basis of Whittier's poem, "The Exiles." Macy and his companions are said to have chosen a site at Madaket for a temporary settlement, but in the summer of 1661 they were established at Cap- paum with the other settlers. They found the In- 28 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. dians very numerous and friendly. Macy was the first recorder on the island, and in 1675, Oct. 1, was com- missioned Chief Magistrate. He was friendly toward the Indians, and opposed the selling of liquor to them. He died at Nantucket, April 19, 1682, aged 74. His wife and one son, John Macy, survived him. From the latter the Macy family in America is descended. EDWARD STARBUCK. Said to have been born in Derbyshire, England, 1604. He moved to Dover, N. H., with his wife, in 1635. In 1643 he received a grant of 40 acres on each side of the Fresh River at Cutchechoc, and of other tracts discovered by himself and associates; was owner of considerable land, and a man of substance as to possessions. He was chosen representative to the General Court of New Hampshire in 1643, and again in 1646, and enjoyed various other tokens of respect from his fellow citizens. In 1648 he was prosecuted in the Dover court for "great misdemeanor," for professing the Baptist faith. As a natural sequence he started on an exploring ex- pedition soon after, during which he met with an- other venturesome spirit, Thomas Macy. In 1659 he is said to have accompanied the latter in the "open boat" to Nantucket; he spent the winter here, and returned to Dover in 1660, and gave an ac- count of the place to the other purchasers. He came back to the island in 1661, with eight or ten families. He is described as "courageous and persevering," "fearless of danger," "was a leading man on the isl- and, and at one time a Magistrate." SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 29 He died June 12, 1690. From his son Nathaniel and his wife Mary, daughter of Tristram Coffyn, sprang all of the Starbuck family in America. PETER FOLGER. The man who was destined to gain the distinction of being the grandfather of Benjamin Franklin, was born in England, probably in Norwich, in 1617. He came to America with his father in 1635, and soon after took up his residence on Martha's Vineyard, where he labored as a teacher, surveyor, and mission- ary among the Indians. He visited Nantucket (prob- ably in 1658) in company with Tristram Coffyn, on a tour of inspection, and in 1663 he came again to make it his home. He had been invited by the settlers to remove to Nantucket to officiate as miller, weaver, and interpreter of the Indian language. His son Eleazer was to act as shoemaker, and a grant of one- half of a share of land, with all the accommodations thereunto belonging, was made to Peter. In 1667 he took charge of the mill (a water-mill on Wesco pond). Besides laboring in the callings above mentioned, ne acted as surveyor. From the time of his first settle- ment on the island, he was one of its most active and useful citizens, and was recognized as one of the most scholarly. Cotton Mather describes him as "an able, Godly Englishman who was employed in teaching the youth." Elsewhere we read that "he was an able and a good man; his occupation as surveyor made him valuable, and his ability as an interpreter was not to be despised." He was from first to last a staunch friend and protector of the Indians. In 1662 we find his name signed as witness to the 30 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. deed given by Sachem Wanackmamack to Tristram Coffyn and Tomas Macy, of that sachem's territory called Pacummohquah. His name also appears on many later deeds. He was the able lieutenant of the doughty Captain John Gardner in his famous contest with Tristram Coffyn for supremacy in town affairs. Peter Folger died in 1690; Mary, his widow, in 1704. They had nine children, only one of whom, Abiah, was born in Nantucket (Aug. 15, 1667). She married Josiah Franklin of Boston, and was the mother of Dr. Benjamin Franklin. She died in 1752. John Swain, Jr., the first white male child born on the Island, married Experience, daughter of Peter and Mary. Many of Peter's descendants became distinguished -notably Hon. Walter Folger, Hon. Chas. J. Folger, and Maria Mitchell. TRISTRAM COFFIN. In a letter written by Joshua Coffin (historian) for the Newburyport Herald, and copied in the Nantucket Inquirer of July 22, 1826, we find the following: "In the year 1642 Tristram Coffyn (born 1605), son of Peter and Joanna Coffyn, of Brixton Parish, Devon- shire Co., England, came to Salisbury, Mass., with his wife Dionis, his mother and two sisters, and four children, Peter, Tristram, Elizabeth and James; whence moved the same year to Haverhill, where his name appears on the Indian deed of that town, Nov. 15, 1642. There two more children were born, Mary and John; he then moved to Newbury and resided about twelve years; there his youngest son, Stephen, was born in 1652. In 1658 or 9 he moved to Salisbury, SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 31 where, on Sept. 2nd, he with eight others, purchased nine-tenths of the Island of Nantucket of Thomas Mayhew. These shares were subsequently divided into 27 shares, 6 of which were owned by Tristram Coffin's family. He came to Nantucket (probably in 1658), in company with Peter Foulger, to investigate the conditions existing here, and to ascertain the dis- position of the Indians towards new-comers, in behalf of certain citizens of Salisbury. On his return to Salisbury a company was formed for the purchase of the Island from Mayhew (the latter to retain one- tenth share).” In 1661 he removed to Nantucket with his family, and established himself with the other colonists at Cappaum, the site of the first town. Here Tristram built a mansion, naming it "Northam," and here he lived until his death, which occurred Oct. 2, 1681. From the first he was a leading spirit among the set- tlers, entering into all public affairs with character- istic energy. His family of five sons and two daught- ers, with their husbands and wives, formed a con- siderable part of the first twenty purchasers. He was appointed by Governor Lovelace as Chief Magistrate of the island in 1671, and again by Governor Andros in 1667. In describing the famous contest between Tris- tram Coffin and his supporters and John Gardner and his party, the author of “Quaint Nantucket" remarks: "The difference in the motives of the opposing parties is shown by their position before the Governor. On the one side was conservatism, selfishness and a dis- regard for the rights of neighbors. On the other side was progress, loyalty and desire for the general wel- fare of all the inhabitants of Nantucket." *See appendix 2. 32 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. In Mrs. Hinchman's "Early Settlers of Nantucket" we are informed that "of the nine children, five out of the seven who married were sons; that Peter had nine children, Tristram, Jr., had ten and left 175 de- scendants, that James had fourteen children, Lieuten- ant John eleven and Stephen ten. The two daughters, Mary Starbuck and Elizabeth Greenleaf, each had ten children." These figures clearly foreshadow the subsequent multiplication of the Coffin family in America. JOHN GARDNER. This man of indomitable personality was the son of Thomas Gardner, who came from England in 1624 and was governor of the Cape Ann Colony. The fam- ily resided in Salem for many years. * * * John and his brother Richard, both of whom be- came prominent members of the Nantucket colony, were not of the original proprietors. "In 1672 the colonists invited Captain John Gardner (mariner of Salem) to settle on the Island, to set up the trade for the taking of codfish." He was to stay at least three years, and was granted "half a share" of land. "His brother Richard came to Nantucket in 1665, as a seaman, and became a land-owner." "Capt. John had evidently not received much school education, but he seems to have been a man of phy- sical courage and rugged honesty that gained for him public confidence. After the death of Peter Folger he was the protector of the Indians. During the thirty years of his residence at Nantucket, for only a few years he was out of office. He was Chief Magistrate, Selectman, Treasurer, and Deputy to New York. He forcibly objected to the new sect (Friends) and SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 33 protested against their establishment on the Island." An account of his long and strenuous contest with Tristram Coffin for supremacy, and the final victory of his party for "equal rights for all" may be found in Henry B. Worth's pamphlet "Nantucket Lands and Land Owners," from which work the above quotations are made. One striking episode of this contest is re- corded in an affidavit of Tristram Coffin, June 13, 1677: "The Marshall, with two assistants, fetched John Gardner by force into the court. When the magistrates spoke to him about his "contemptuous carriages," he listened in silence, and, without re- moving his hat, he sat down on a chest whereon was seated Tristram Coffin, who said to him: "I am sorry you do behave yourself as a Delinquent." To which John Gardner replied: "I know my business, and it may be that some of those who have meddled with me had better have eaten fier." "In the history of those times John Gardner stands as the greatest of all the men who had to do with the beginnings of Nantucket. He had the genius of a leader, and his ability was recognized by Governor Andros in ap- pointing him, three times, the chief magistrate of the Island. The people made him their agent "to act in all matters of the town at New York, etc." "He was made the leader of a committee to consult for the public good of the Island against all invaders of the people's Rights."* In 1687 he obtained from Governor Dongan the "Patent to Certain Inhabitants of Nantucket" which made "John Gardner with six associates, One Body Corporate and Politic to be called by the Name of the Trustees of the Free-holders and Comonalty of the Town." *Quaint Nantucket, p 52. " 34 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. In 1673 he was appointed by Gov. Lovelace "Cap- tain and Chief Military Officer of the Ffoot Company." In 1699 he was appointed judge of probate, which of- fice he held until his death in 1706. "In the ancient burial field, on a breezy hill-top west of the town, stands a granite monument, conspicuous above the bayberry bushes, the blackberry vines and the hawk- weed blossoms that surround it. On its face are cut these words: "Here lies buried ye body of John Gardner, Esq., aged 82, Who died May, 1706." Near by are the unmarked graves of some of the men who stood with him and against him in the mem- orable struggle.* "Tired of tempest and racing wind, Tired of the spouting breaker, Here they came at the end, to find Rest in the silent acre. Feet pass over the graveyard turf, Up from the sea, or downward; One way leads to the raging surf, One to the perils townward. "Hearken, hearken," the dead men call, "Whose is the step that passes? Knows he not we are safe from all, Under the nodding grasses?" The Indians. The tribes of Indians found in possession of Nan- tucket and the adjacent islands by the first white set- *Quaint Nantucket, page 53. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 35 tlers were tributaries of the Naticks, then a numerous tribe in Massachusetts. Its famous Chief, King Phil- ip, visited the island in 1665. From a letter written by Dr. Zaccheus Macy for the Massachusetts Historical Society in 1792 the fol- lowing quotations are made: "At that time (1763) there were living about 370 natives on the island. Wanackmamack was the first Sachem at the Southeast part of the island, when the English came to Nantucket. Next to him was Sou- soauco, and next to him were his two sons, Cain and Abel. These two agreed to divide the Sachem right, two-thirds part to Cain, and one-third part to Abel. The said Cain had one daughter, Jemima, married to James Shea. From Abel sprang Eben Abel, and from him sprang Benj. Abel, the last Sachem, from who:n I bought all his right, title and property on the isl- and, for and in behalf of the whole English proprie- tors. All the said Jemima's right was bought by our old proprietors many years before, as may fully ap- pear on our records." · (For boundaries of these territories see Ewer's inap.) "Next to the territory of Wanackmamack began that of Sachem Wauwinet, and extended Northward, including Squam, Coatue and Great Point, and West- ward to New Town and Southward to Weweeder Ponds." This Sachem's domain fell to his descend- ants of several generations. "The first Sachem at the Southwest part of said island was Autopscot. His territory extended from Weweeder Northward to Con- sue meadow at Monomoy (New Town); from thence Westward to the Southward of Popsquatchet Hills, whereon three mills now stand, and so to the West L 36 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. sea called Tawtemeo (Hummock Pond). Autopscot was a great warrior, and got this land by his bow." The fourth Sachem, Potconet, was at the North- west part, and owned all of the island called Tucker- nuck. (Signifying a loaf of bread.) His bound ex- tended from Madaket down Eastward to Wesco,* and so on to the North side of Autopscot land. All of this was bought of him at the coming of the English, saving some tracts belonging to others.” The warlike Autopscot had a grandson named Ben- jamin Tashama, who was the last Indian chief on the island. He was also a minister of the gospel and a school master, teaching the children of his tribe to read and write. The dwelling of this worthy Indian was on the Eastern border of Gibbs' Swamp, opposite a small island. According to Zaccheus Macy, the old Indian na- tives, at their meetings of worship, used the forms of Presbyterians, but imitated the Quakers in holding meetings on the first and fifth days of the week, at- tending them regularly. They gave suitable seats to visitors, and appeared glad to see them come in. They had justices, consta- bles, grand jurymen, and some were weavers, others good carpenters. From this picture let us turn to one which seems to be more realistic, if not so pleasing. In "Quaint Nantucket," page 54, we read that "As soon as the English had established themselves on the Island it became necessary to put the Indian inhab- itants under restraint. They were lazy and lawless, *Wesco, "the white stone," marking a boundary, said to have been located near the head of Straight Wharf. The town was first called Wesco, or Wesquo. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 37 1 and refused to move off from lands which the Eng- lish had bought. They burned the growing grass, hunted cattle on the commons, carried away English firewood, and stole English sheep. Drunkenness be- came the Indian's predominant crime." Alas, the old story, oft repeated in our nation's history! These poor "heathen," while acquiring the arts and devo- tions of our ancestors, had also been led to imitate some of their vices, even to buying fire-water from them in exchange for good wheat. It is not surpris- ing to read that in 1709 began a half century contest in which the Indians endeavored to recover the land of which they claimed to have been wrongfully dis- possessed by the English settlers. The Indians had great cause for complaint, but the final result of the contest was a foregone conclusion. "It was frequent for some of them to murmur and find fault with the English, charging them with hav- ing unfairly purchased their lands. The English en- deavored to satisfy them by appealing to the records, and stating that the Sachems had a good right to sell, and that their descendants ought to be satisfied there- with. These reasonings quieted them for a series of years, and always would have sufficed, had they kept clear of rum, for they seldom called this subject into view, unless they were in some degree intoxicated." With the aid of friendly whites the Indians addressed a petition to the Supreme Court in Boston praying that a special court of Oyer & Terminer might be constituted, with full power to determine all causes brought before it. Several years after the court authorized one of their body to go to Nantucket and make judicial in- quiry in the premises, and act thereon, as necessity 38 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. required. In 1753 the deputed Judge arrived, and convened the parties. A large concourse of the peo- ple were present. * "The parties, by their deputies, were heard, the records and other evidence adduced, and the cause ably argued on both sides. The trial lasted several days. The Judge addressed them in a long speech, wherein he explained to the Indians that the English had clearly and legally purchased their lands; that they had produced good and lawful records to prove the same; that these records appeared without fraud, or intention to wrong them; that they were the best records of purchases of land of natives he had ever met with, and that it was his judgment they should be satisfied therewith, and quietly repair to their homes. On this conclusion the court rose, the Indians with- drew, and, though not satisfied with the decision, were never very troublesome about it afterwards." (Macy's History, pp. 60-61.) The town records of those days are not pleasant reading for those of us who are wont to regard our ancestors as demi-gods. It is with a sense of relief that we read elsewhere that the Indians had many good friends among the whites, who taught them Christianity by example as well as by precept, and who strove to protect them in their rights. In 1763, when a contagious disease broke out among them, these white friends nursed them back to health, or closed their eyes in death; and, strange to say, not one of them contracted the disease, while it swept away 222 of the Indians, leaving but 136 as a remnant of the once numerous tribe. Prominent among these friends of the Indians was the Rev. Timothy White, SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 39 whose "Papers," edited by Rev. M. S. Dudley, have been published by the Historical Association. White spent thirty years in Nantucket, during which time he was a preacher in the Congregational Church, also a teacher and devoted missionary among the Indians. At that time the whale-fishery was carried on only in boats from stages along shore. As the business grew, and vessels began to make whaling voyages, Indians were employed as sailors, and many of them sailed in crews of the later whale-ships. It has been stated that, up to the year 1835, there had been only ten executions on the island since the first settlement. All of these were of native Indians, their crime being murder. The last full blooded Indian died in 1822. -- L Abram Quary, a half breed (of whom several ex- し ​cellent portraits are extant) died in 1855. He was the last man having Indian blood in him, and retained to the last many characteristics of the race. For many years Quary dwelt in a small house on Abram's Point, a short distance up harbor. It is stated that during the latter part of his life, he was summoned to appear in court to answer the charge of shooting at a man who was digging for relics near his house, on land which was once an Indian burial ground. He admitted the act, and said: "The man came to disturb the bones of my ancestors, and I fired at him; if he or any other man comes again for the same purpose, I shall kill him.” After being cau- tioned he was discharged. The Friends, or Quakers. Thomas Chalkley, a prominent English Friend, visited Nantucket in 1698 and held meetings, which 40 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. were well attended by the people. Thomas Story and other Friends visited the island at subsequent inter- vals. In 1704 Nathaniel Starbuck and his distin- guished wife Mary,* resident here, became ministers, and were instrumental in establishing a Meeting, sev- eral years later, in the first meeting house. In 1708 a "monthly meeting" was started, and con- tnued on the Island until 1894, when it was removed to Lynn, Mass. To this meeting came at times many Friends and ministers from New York, Philadelphia and other places. Thenceforth the society steadily increased in numbers," reaching its highest tide of membership and influence a few years previous to the opening of the 19th century." In 1792 their Meeting- house was standing on Main street, corner of (now) Saratoga street. It was erected in 1730, and was used for more than sixty years. It was then moved to what is now the corner of Main and Pleasant streets (the streets were not named at that time). The same year a second building was erected in what is now known as Broad street. The Meeting was then divided be- tween the two buildings. "In 1794 the population of Nantucket was about 5600, and more than one-half attended the Friends' Meeting." "They had evidently found an enduring stronghold, and in the future were clear prospects of greater success." Yet unknown to themselves they had reached the *In "Quaint Nantucket" (p. 77) the author pays her this high tribute: "Foremost of these Nantucket people was a woman named Mary Starbuck, the mother of four sons and six daughters. Of all the women of Colonial times who were in- fluential in public affairs she stands pre-eminent." "Her con- version was the beginning of Quakerism on Nantucket. In her house the Friends' Meeting was formed, and there it wor- shiped for four years." SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 41 pinnacle of their prosperity, and soon would begin the decline that would be steady and relentless, until they should disappear from the island." The causes which led to the divisions and final de- cline of the Friends' Society on the island are beyond the scope of this book, but they are described in de- tail by Mr. Henry B. Worth in his pamphlet "Quaker- ism on Nantucket since 1800," from which work the above quotations have been made. That system of extreme repression which led the early Friends to deny themselves all indulgence in the wholesome recreations of life, and to forbid their children the practice or enjoyment of art, music, dancing, games, and the reading of works of fiction, could lead to but one result. Human nature, in the young especially, cannot long remain confined within such narrow bounds. The rigid discipline of the Society and the summary "disowning" of members for offences against its tyrannical rules, served only to hasten its decline. Needless to state, there were during its long life many high-aspiring souls, such as Nathaniel Starbuck and his wife Mary, Elihu Coleman and, in later years, Nar- cissa B. Coffin, who would have been shining lights in any religious sect. Many of the early Friends, with all their austerity and repression, were possessed of sterling characters and warm hearts. It was their uniform habit to make ample provisions for the sup- port of their aged poor. They believed in the com- forts, if not in the adornments of home, and were not deficient in sense of humor of a staid and decorous kind. The later Friends, as is well known, became far more liberal in their views, and their descendants of the present day enjoy most of the privileges which their ancestors denied themselves. A 42 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. Though the Friends' Society is now extinct on the island, the influence of their sober and self-restrained lives is still felt and shown in many of their descend- ants. In 1733 Elihu Coleman, a minister of the Society, published a pamphlet entitled "A testimony against that anti-Christian practice of MAKING SLAVES OF MEN." He had many supporters, and eventually the entire Society took a decided stand against slavery. In 1822, nearly a century later, Arthur Cooper, a fugi- tive slave from Virginia, with his family, was rescued from his pursuers by Friends, afterwards ending his days here. In 1841 an Anti-slavery Convention was held in Atheneum Hall, on which occasion Frederick Douglass made his first appearance as a public speaker. With the death of Wm. Hosier in 1899, and of Eunice Paddock in 1900, passed away the last surviv- ors of the Friends' Society in Nantucket. The Whale Fishery. BY DR. BENJAMIN SHARP. The history of whaling in Nantucket prior to 1825 is practically the history of whaling in America to that date. Until then she led the world in this im- portant industry. From that date, owing to the in- crease in the size of whale-ships, deeper harbors be- came necessary, and New Bedford, always important, rose rapidly above all other ports. The larger ships of Nantucket were compelled to fit out from “Old Town" (now Edgartown) on the Vineyard, or from New Bedford. Attempts were made to take empty ves- sels back of the bar and there load them for the voy-· SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 43 age, in order to keep the whole voyage under the direct supervision of the home people. But the loss of one or two fine ships in gales of wind, notably the "Joseph Starbuck" in 1842, put a stop to this laudable attempt. Even the disadvantage of fitting out from other ports did not prevent the ships from returning laden with oil to the bar, where their oil was taken into lighters and the empty ship towed into the harbor, sometimes even listed and literally dragged over the shallow places. Some were taken over the bar by an ingenious adaptation of Peter Ewer, called the "Camels," which was a floating dock, sunk to the water's edge; the ship was hauled in, the water, in compartments, pumped out. This lifted the vessel to such a height that it could be easily towed in over the bar. The first vessel to use the "Camels," was the "Constitution." She was towed out, fitted for sea on September 23, 1842. On October 13th of the same year the "Peru," was taken in with 1340 barrels of sperm oil on board; the "Camels," for some reason, did not prove a success; they were hauled on the beach and slowly rotted to pieces on the Pest-House shore of the harbor. The size of the whale ships in the early part of the last century would surprise the present generation. The enormous steel "four posters" of to-day could take one of them onto her deck and scarcely be incon- venienced. (Compare the "Lydia" of 160 tons, with the five masted bark "Potosi," 3955 registered ton- nage and 6150 carrying capacity). And yet these little ships made voyages up and down the Atlantic, around the "East" and "West" capes to take their oil in the Indian and Pacific Oceans. How little was the draft 44 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. of these old "water-punching wind-jammers" is shown by the fate of the old "Lydia." When she was liter- ally worn out she was taken up harbor to Pocomo to be broken up, and until recently her stout, oil-soaked timbers could be seen making up parts of the fences on the farms about Podpis harbor. Whether James Loper came over to Nantucket from Cape Cod to teach the inhabitants how to catch the whale we need not discuss. Nevertheless such a tradition existed, and so strong was it that two Nan- tucket ships bore his name; the "Loper" and the "James Loper." The former, in 1829 and 30, made the shortest full voyage out of Nantucket-a "cut" of 2280 barrels of sperm oil in fourteen months and fourteen days from port to port. There is no doubt that the Natick indians hunted the whale in canoes in a manner somewhat similar to that practiced to-day by the "Bow-headers" of the northeast coast of Siberia. Tradition tells us that in 1690 several persons standing on what was afterwards called "Folly-House Hill" saw whales playing about the south shore of the island, when one "of their number said: "There is the green pasture where our children's grand children will go for their bread.'"'* About this time one Ichabod Paddock was induced to settle in Nantucket as an instructor of "the best method of killing whales and obtaining their oil." Shore whaling began. Stations were established on the South and East shores of the Island. A signal staff was erected at the station, where a lookout was placed from sun-rise to sun-set. sighted, a boat with its crew of through the surf, and pursit began. *Macy's History of Nantucket, p. 33. When a whale was six was launched In the event of its SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 45 capture, it was towed to the shore, the blubber and "bone" or teeth removed; the oil tryed out, barreled and sent to town. Such shore whaling is still carried on along the southern coast of California by a com- pany of thrifty Portuguese. As the whales became fewer or were driven so far from the shores that they could not be taken by these boats, the stations were gradually abandoned, and small sloops were built, which made short voyages from the harbor to the shoals on the South and East of the Island. The last station in operation was situ- ated where the old part of Siasconset now is, and a description of the house used by the whalers is given in St. John's "Letters from an American Farmer.' (London 1783). The little sloops with square top-sails and to'gal- lant sails, with braces running to jib-boom ends, cruised about the island for whales. Their crews were made up of thirteen men all told, six men to each boat, and a "ship-keeper." When a whale was cap- tured it was "cut in," the blubber stowed in casks, and the vessel made for home. The blubber, on ar- rival, was taken ashore and tryed out in try-works erected along what is now known as the "Clean Shore" of the harbor. Soon longer voyages had to be made, and try-works were built aboard the sloops. The Bay of St. Lawrence became a favorite whaling ground, and voyages extended to the shores of Greenland and along the edge of that great ocean river, the Gulf Stream, as far south as the Bahama Islands. The po- sition, rate and extent of this great stream soon be- came well known to the Nantucket whalemen, and at the request of Franklin (then postmaster general) a sketch of it was made which has been but little im- 46 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. proved upon since. Franklin, whose mother was born in Nantucket, says: "The Nantucket whalemen, be- ing extremely well acquainted with with the Gulph Stream, its course, strength and extent, by their con- stant practice of whaling along the edges of it, from their Island down to the Bahamas, this draft of that stream was obtained of one of them Captain (Tim- othy) Folger, and caused to be engraved on the old chart for the benefit of navigation by B. Franklin."* From these small beginnings, larger vessels were built and longer voyages taken. Division of labor set in; some of the people took to the sea; others to mak- ing casks for the oil. Blacksmiths made harpoons, lances, etc., and repaired the iron work about the ves- sels. Rope-walks (at one time seven were in opera- tion on the island) and sail-lofts were established, until the town became a very bee-hive. No one was idle and all crafts turned on the whale, its capture and its disposal. In 1774 Captain Uriah Bunker of Nantucket led the American whaling fleet across the equator into the South Atlantic. This led to the discovery of the "Brazil Banks," and the enormous seal rookeries about Cape Horn, the Falklands and the islands of the Ant- arctic continent. Many of the whalers took "ele- phant" and seal oil to make up their voyages, as no extra apparatus was necessary. During the period of the Revolutionary War, Nan- tucket was the only port in America which carried on whaling, and this declined, owing to the many cap- tures. From 1775 to 1783, of the fleet of vessels num- bering at the outbreak of the war about one hundred and fifty, no less than one hundred and thirty-four *Starbuck. History of the American Whale Fishery, p. 18. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 47 vessels had fallen into the hands of the British. Many of the owners hauled up their small vessels along the shores of the harbor, others were dismantled and se- cured at the wharves. It has been estimated that no less than twelve hundred seamen, mostly whalemen, were captured by the British or perished at their hands during the Revolution, from Nantucket alone. After the peace whaling sprang up again, and ves- sels sought their cargoes about the West Indies, the Brazil Banks, and around the "East Cape" in the In- dian Ocean, where their rendezvous was Delagoa Bay. Much of the oil went to England and was carried sometimes in whale-ships, which loaded at Nantucket. One of these was the "Bedford," Captain William Mooers. She arrived at the Downs on the 3d of Febru- ary, 1783, and reported at the London Custom House on the 6th, flying the United States flag. She was the first vessel to carry our flag to an English port. "It is related that one of the crew of the vessel first showing the American flag in the Thames was hump-backed. One day a British sailor meeting him clapped his hand upon the American's shoulder, saying: 'Hilloa, Jack, what have you got here?' 'Bunker Hill and be d-d to you,' replied the Yankee, 'will you mount.'"* Many Nantucket officers were employed in the Eng- lish and French whale ships at this time, and the first sperm whale taken in the Pacific ocean was secured by Archaelus Hammond, of Nantucket, mate of an English whaler. Nantucket lost four or five whale-ships to French privateers during the progress of the French war. Among them was the "Joanna," Captain Coffin, valued *Starbuck. History of the American Whale Fishery, p. 77. 48 at $40,000. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. The claims of this vessel have only re- cently been settled. As whaling spread out on the Pacific Ocean from the Atlantic, the west coast of South America became a favorite "ground," and the Spanish ports became ports of call for "refreshments." The first American whaler in the Pacific was the "Beaver," built in 1791, Captain Paul Worth, which sailed from Nantucket in August, 1791, and owing to difficulties with the Span- iards, was ordered out of Lima (Callao) without sup- plies. To the old "Washington," Captain Coffin, rests the honor of first hoisting the American flag (1791) in a Spanish Pacific port. An interesting voyage took place about this time, when the ship "Union" sailed from Nantucket on August 18, 1793, returning in June of the following year with over twelve hundred barrels of whale oil. During this voyage the ship did not anchor once, and only saw land once in that time-Cape St. Augustine, on the coast of Brazil. Later, in 1807, this ship was sunk by a whale, the crew escaping after a journey of six hundred miles in open boats. Whaling prospered now, as the sperm whale was found to be very plentiful in the Pacific, where in spite of Spanish hostility on the west coast of South America, many whale ships resorted. It was the cus- tom then to get a fair cargo of sperm oil in the Pa- cific, and when the dangers of Cape Horn were suc- cessfully passed, to fill up with right whale oil on the coast of Brazil before coming home. Voyages at this time rarely extended over a greater period than two years. At the outbreak of the War of 1812 most of the Nantucket whale ships were at sea. On hearing of the SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 49 out-break of hostilities some returned home, and many succeeded in gaining fortified harbors, as Bos- ton and New Bedford. Many, however, were captured and sent as prizes to Barbados and Halifax by British cruisers and privateers. Those in the Pacific were seized by the Peruvian corsairs, who claimed that they were allies of Great Britain. At the capture of Tal- cahuano a large number of American whalers were captured, among them twelve Nantucket ships pre- paring to return home. Joel R. Poinsett, who had been sent out by the United States governmnt to pro- tect its interests, joined the Chilian army and aided in retaking Talcahuano; he soon released the Ameri- can vessels held by the Peruvians. The timely ar- rival on the coast of Captain (afterwards Admiral) David Porter, in the frigate "Essex," soon put an end to the depredations of the Spaniards of Peru. By the capture of many English armed whalers he soon as- sembled about him a small squadron, and swept the English and Peruvians from the sea. Nantucket lost one-half of her whaling fleet (forty- six) during this war, yet by 1820 the fleet had in- creased to seventy-two ships, aggregating 20,449 tons, besides several brigs and sloops. (Note.-The ton- nage of the "Deutschland" to-day is 23,000 tons.) "In 1818 Capt. Geo. W. Gardner, in the ship 'Globe,' of Nantucket (two years later occurred the notorious mutiny), steering west from the old track, found in latitude 5 degrees to 10 degrees South and longitude 105 degrees to 125 degrees West, a cruising ground where the object of his search seemed to exist in almost countless numbers. This he termed the 'Off- shore Ground,' and within two years more than fifty ships were whaling in the same locality.” * *Starbuck. History of the American Whale Fishery, p. 96. 50 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. In the fall of 1819, the ship "Maro," Captain Joseph Allen, of Nantucket, on the advice of Captain Winship, of Brighton, Mass., merchantman, sought the waters of Japan, where he found enormous numbers of sperm whales. The first whale was taken here by William Jay, third mate of the "Maro." Thus the famous -"Japan Grounds" became known to the world. The Hawaiian (Sandwich) Islands, which for a long time could have been looked upon as a "suburb❞ of Nantucket, were first visited by the "Equator," Cap tain Elisha Folger, in company with the "Balaena,” Captain Edmund Gardner, of New Bedford, on Sep- tember 17, 1819. This "Paradise of the Pacific" be- came the yearly rendezvous of American and English whalers, and their trade really built up the islands. Now occurred one of the most pitiable disasters in the history of whaling. The ship "Essex," Captain George Pollard, Jr., left Nantucket for the Pacific Ocean, where she was very successful. In November, 1820, she was stove by an enraged sperm whale, and in a few moments she sank to the water's edge. The boats were abroad after whales. Their crews looked about and saw that the ship had disappeared, but soon discovered the signals of Owen Chase, the mate, and gathered about the wreck of their vessel. Some fresh water, provisions and tools were secured, and three heavily laden boats started from the equator for Juan Fernandez-twenty-six hundred miles to the south- east. In a month they made Henderson's Island (not Ducie's as was supposed), where three of the men pre- ferred to stay and eke out an existence on a barren island. For two months more the boats struggled with the open ocean. One was lost and never after- SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 51 wards heard from. Toward the end the captain's and mate's boats separated. Chase and two survivors were picked up on February 17th not far from the island which they had so long sought, by Captain William Crozier of the English Brig "Indian," having been eighty-nine days at sea. On February 23d Pollard and one companion were taken from their boat by Captain Zimri Coffin, of the "Dauphin," of Nantucket, having been ninety-four days in the boat. The three men left on the island were taken off by Captain Hen- derson, of an English bark, who was notified and paid for it at Valparaiso. The loss of the "Oeno," Captain Samuel Riddell, in 1824, shows the dangers to which the whalemen were subjected. She was lost on the Fiji islands, and all her crew, save William S. Carey, were murdered by the natives and probably eaten. As the whale ships cruised for their oil in all waters of the globe, and far out of the "lanes" of commerce, many discoveries were made by them. No less than thirty islands in the Pacific Ocean were dis- covered by the Captains of Nantucket whale ships.* This period, from 1820 to 1830, was the greatest in Nantucket's history. Although she held her fleet in numbers, after this date, yet she was outstripped as a whaling port by New Bedford. In 1827, the "Sarah," Captain Frederick Arthur, sailed for the Pacific Ocean, and returning in about a year, brought to Nantucket the largest cargo of sperm oil ever landed here-3494 barrels. The decline of whaling set in; first on the intro- duction of lard oil, and later by the discovery of the *For a list of these islands and their discoverers, see Nan- tucket Inquirer and Mirror, spring of 1899. 52 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. Never did her whal- enormous mineral oil fields of Western Pennsylvania. There is a captain still living in Nantucket, who re- members reading in a newspaper, thrown aboard his ship off the coast of Africa, of the discovery of the great petroleum fields, and how all hands scoffed at the prophecy there held forth. Nantucket was pre- eminently a sperm whaling port. ers take kindly to the tamer right whale. As the price of oil fell before the cheaper mineral product, she was not in a position to grasp the only hope in the rising price of whale bone. Her ships were gradually ab- sorbed in the great whaling port of New Bedford. Many helped to make up the "stone fleet," and have long since crumbled under the ceaseless gnawings of the ship-worm in Charleston harbor. Her great fleet, whose canvas whitened the oceans of the world, dwindled to nothing. Her last flag opened to the breeze at the masthead of the bark "Oak" on Novem- ber 16, 1869, and was hauled down from the "R. L. Barstow" at Callao, in February, 1873. Her sounding wharves, which echoed the taps of the caulking mallet and the cooper, have become silent and have crumbled to ruin; the reverberations of her rumbling oil carts have died out like a summer breeze; her sail lofts have disappeared-save one, which by the time this work is issued will be seen no more; and her rope walks and great candle houses have been swept away, leaving not a vestige, save in the memories of her children. Sheep Husbandry and Sheeps Commons. From the time of their first settlement, our ances- tors set great importance on sheep raising. The fol- SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 53 lowing outline of their system of sheeps commons is drawn from published accounts. When followed up to the present day, it becomes a mathematical prob- lem as complex as it is unprofitable. The land, aside from houselots, was owned in com- mon by the first purchasers. After their number had been increased to twenty-seven, there were, accord- ingly, twenty-seven undivided shares. At a later period large tracts of land were laid out to form "di- visions," and designated by such names as "Squam," "Smooth Hummocks," etc., and each division was di- vided into twenty-seven shares. As the population increased the number of proprie- tors (by inheritance as well as by bargain and sale) increased accordingly, until few individuals could claim a whole share in any one division. Lots were then drawn to determine on what par- ticular share of the new division each man's interest should fall. The proprietors formed themselves into an organization which still exists under the name of the "Proprietors of the Common and Undivided Lands of Nantucket;" held meetings and kept records of their own, distinct from the records of deeds. For more than 50 years all the land of the Island, aside from houselot land, was thus owned in common. these fetters were soon broken by Obed Mitchell and some others, who, being large proprietors, succeeded in having large tracts "set off" to them by the court. The precedent was soon followed by many other set- offs being made. But A sheep common, then, signified 1-19,440th of all the common land on the Island. The original idea was an acre and a half, but as the term is now used, it indi- cates nothing definite either in area or value, but 54 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET, means simply "an undivided fractional part of a very uncertain something else," etc., etc. Is the reader anxious to follow this Chinese puzzle further? If so, he is referred to a chapter in Godfrey's Guide Book written by the late Wm. Hussey Macy. The business of sheep husbandry steadily increased until in 1775 from 12,000 to 16,000 sheep were owned on the Island. But the hardships suffered by the peo- ple during the Revolutionary War caused a reduction of their flocks to about three thousand head in 1784. In 1835 the number had again increased to eight or ten thousand. Since that time the number has steadily diminished until at the present time but a few hun- dred are owned. With the enormous shipments of mutton from the West and the low market price of wool, the business of sheep raising has ceased to be profitable on Nan- tucket. During the days of large flocks an ingenious system of "ear marks" was used, each owner's sheep having a special "ear mark" cut on the ear was the owner's exclusive property, this mark duly registered in a book. It is interesting to learn that the proprietors brought this system of sheeps commons and ear-marks with them from Salisbury and other towns, and that it originated in Scotland. The following table was in vogue during the early days of the Nantucket settlement: 4 Geese Commons equal 1 Sheep Common, 8 Sheeps Commons equal 1 Cow Common. 2 Cow Commons equal 1 Horse Common. SEAGIRT NANTUCKET. Nantucket During the Revolution. 55 Among the many vicissitudes which the inhabi- tants of Nantucket have had to endure, the most serious and far reaching were the losses and priva- tions inflicted upon them during the Revolutionary war. From Macy's History the following selections are made: "Their situation was such as to render them exposed to the ravages of an enemy, without the means of making any defence. Being surrounded by the sea, they could be assailed from any quarter, and were liable to be plundered by any petty cruisers which might visit them for that purpose. It was clear- ly foreseen that the inhabitants could derive no pro- tection from our own country." "Towards the close of 1774 there were 150 sail of vessels in the whaling service belonging to the Island, and the greater part of them at sea. The owners at this time concluded to strip and haul them up as fast as they arrived, in hopes that the impending storm might blow over without any serious consequences. But, alas, how frail is man, and how blind to future events." Naturally the danger to their ships at sea was the source of their gravest apprehensions. News of the battle of Lexington in the Spring of 1775 reached Nantucket a few days after. "All business was immediately at a stand. Dis- couraged and powerless, they could do little else than meet together and bemoan their fate. Every mind was overwhelmed with fearful anticipations, all springing from one general cause-the war. Many were deeply concerned for the welfare of their husbands, children 56 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. or brothers, then at sea, on whom they depended for their subsistence and the comforts of life." "The inhabitants were now driven from their wonted lines of business into a state of inactivity. Some of them joined the army, others engaged on board of privateers,* few of whom ever returned to the island. A few families removed to various parts of the country, chiefly to the provinces of New York and North Carolina. But the bulk of the people con- cluded to remain, and do the best they could. "Whaling having now ceased, the wharves and shores were for a while lined with vessels stripped to their naked masts. The people, however, soon began to turn their attention to fishing on the shoals and round the shores, and many, to save what property they had acquired, went into the farming business. They soon found themselves wholly cut off from all kinds of imported goods. The price of salt was much enhanced, and without it they could derive little ad- vantage from fishing." Attempts were made to pro- duce salt, but with little success. "West India produce of all kinds, as well as salt, soon became excessively high; and a prospect of a profitable business for all was thus presented, too flat- tering to be disregarded." Cautious ventures were soon made in small ves- sels carrying cargoes of oil, candles, fish, lumber, and other articles to the West Indies, returning (if for- tunate enough to escape the enemy) with other car- goes which found a ready market here. It was a dan- *Many Nantucket men sailed with the famous Paul Jones. In speaking of the crew of the privateer "Ranger" (21 out of 131 were from Nantucket,) Jones says, "it was the best crew I have ever seen, and, I believe, the best afloat." SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 57 gerous business, in which few could afford to take large risks. Therefore many combined to make up each cargo. "On this plan a few vessels were soon got away, and such as returned in safety made very profitable voyages. This business succeeded well till the British took possession of a number of American seaports, and were thus enabled to send out numerous small privateers. The coast was soon so thronged with these that it was difficult for vessels to arrive in safety. The loss of property by capture was a small evil compared with the sufferings of those who were made prisoners. As soon as the British took posses- sion of New York and Rhode Island, they established prison-ships, in which thousands of American seamen were pent up, and thousands perished from privations and inhuman treatment." Many Nantucket seamen were imprisoned on these ships, and suffered the worst hardships, often ending only in death. The West India trade, though very hazardous, was continued as long as the smaller vessels lasted, but they dimin- ished fast, many being captured, others wrecked on the coast during dark, stormy nights. "Provisions, notwithstanding what was raised on the island, were very scarce and dear, and many suffered from want." After a few years of war a large proportion of the people had exhausted their savings, and those who still retained capital were afraid to embark it. Corn was frequently three dollars per bushel, flour thirty dollars per barrel, and other provisions in proportion. As wood became scarce various substitutes were used, especially peat. "Although the town was not sacked or burnt during the war, it was often threatened. It was often visited by English cruisers, but only in one instance did they commit serious depredation. On 58 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. April 6th, 1779, eight sail of vessels came to the bar, two of which came into the wharf. One hundred men then landed, and proceeded to plunder several stores and to commit some other depredations. The value of property taken was about £10,000. The people at- tempted no defence, and the invaders left the next day. In June, 1779, a committee was appointed by the town to proceed to Newport, thence to New York, to represent to the British commanders the difficulties under which the people labored. This committee pre- sented a memorial from the town, stating the facts, and on their return to the island, brought a communi- cation from the commander-in-chief of the British forces, giving assurance of his good disposition towards the town. (See Macy's Hist., pp. 99-100.) Sir Henry Clinton fully united in the foregoing declara- tions, and assured the committee that they should be complied with. The report was cordially accepted, and it appeared that all was done that could be ex- pected toward protection. But after a few months it was learned that a squadron of armed vessels was preparing to leave New York for Nantucket, for the purpose of plundering the town and of burning it if any resistance was offered. These were believed to be government vessels, authorized, which caused the greater alarm. It finally appeared that they had no authority from the British commander-in-chief at New York, but that the loyalists instituted and pro- moted the plan. It was soon known that this fleet had arrived at the Vineyard, and the people of Nan- tucket were panic stricken, seeing no possibility of escape, on account of the many English cruisers in the sound. Hasty efforts were made by many to con- SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 59 ceal valuables in remote places, or to bury them in the earth. Others simply trusted in Providence, quiet- ly awaiting the event. A constant lookout was kept every day, but no fleet appeared. At length a com- munication came from Geo. Leonard, Naval Com- mander of the Squadron, and Edward Winslow, Cap- tain of a party of troops, in which various charges were made against the people; in substance, that they had "wafted a sloop from the harbor, preventing her capture by Leonard, also had assisted his majesty's enemies, etc., etc., and unless these charges could be removed, they should consider Nantucket a common enemy, and treat the people accordingly. This com- munication added to the alarm of the people. A meet- ing was held, and a reply to the charges was framed. This was dated Nov. 18, 1779, and signed by Freder- ick Folger, Town Clerk." (Macy, pp. 104-5-6.) A com- mittee was appointed to bear the memorial, and to use their endeavors to give satisfaction. On their re- turn they reported to the effect that they had received full assurance of immunity from invasion "as long as they adhered to their own votes and acted con- sistently with them." Immediately afterwards the squadron returned to New York. "In every instance of application being made to the British Commanders for relief, it was granted, as far as circumstances would allow." Greater suffering was experienced by the inhabitants in the year 1780 than at any other period during the war. During the win- ter of that year (an unusually severe one) their dis- tress was very great, as the greater part of them had been reduced to penury. The harbor was closed with ice from Dec. 20th throughout the winter, and no sup- plies could be obtained from the mainland. For wood 60 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. * they were dependent on scrub oak and juniper brought from Coskata, six miles from town; with this meagre supply, they were barely able to avoid perishing from cold. Still more distress was felt from want of pro- visions. In July, 1780, a petition was sent by the people, through their agent, Timothy Folger, to Sir Henry Clinton, commander-in-chief of the British forces, praying that they might be permitted to send vessels on whaling voyages, and others to fish around the island, and to go after wood and provisions. Pro- tection also was asked against the removal of prop- erty from the island. This petition, although it had not the immediate effect asked for, proved of much advantage in promoting whaling without the risk of capture. In 1781 a memorial was again resorted to, asking for protection of property, and such indul- gences as could be granted. The committee who car- ried this petition to Admiral Digby, then in command at New York, reported having received from him a positive assurance of protection "within the bar of the harbor." Toward the end of the year a considerable number of permits were obtained for whaling. With the return of peace in 1783 the people began to take heart again, though their condition was still deplor- able. "In 1775 the tonnage owned at Nantucket was about 14,867 tons. During the war fifteen vessels were lost at sea, and one hundred and thirty-four captured; total loss in tonnage, 12,467 tons, of which more than 10,000 fell into the hands of the enemy." (Macy's His- tory, p. 122.) It has been estimated that about 1,600 Nantucket men lost their lives in various ways dur- ing the war. Beyond a doubt Nantucket paid as dearly for the independence of the country as any place in the Union. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 61 The War of 1812. In 1812, the infringements of the English on our rights still continued, and our government appeared to be preparing for war. Unfortunately the Nantucket people had cherished the belief that war would be averted, and under this impression had fitted out their ships. In April the government laid an em- bargo, to be of three months' duration; this was designed to give an opportunity for the shipping to arrive before war was declared, and to prevent ves- sels in port from venturing out. Had the first em- bargo act extended to whaling vessels, much of the property of the island would have been saved. A town meeting was held to consider the expediency of sending a memorial to Congress, stating their sit- uation and circumstances. The memorial was sent (Macy, p. 162), and in it the petitioners gave "a retrospective view" of their losses and privations during the war of the Revolution, and represented the exposed situation of the island, also stating the fact "that seven-eighths of the mercantile capital is now at sea, three-fourths of which is not expected to return within twelve months from the present date." In conclusion the petitioners prayed that a declaration of war might be averted. This memorial was signed by Isaac Coffin, Moderator, and James Coffin, Town Clerk. (Macy, p. 163.) War was declared on June 24th, 1812. The people of Nantucket were then greatly discouraged and ap- prehensive of the worst, remembering their experi- ences in the Revolutionary war. No avenue of relief seemed visible. In their despair they resorted to a memorial to President Madison, asking for protection. 62 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. This appears to have been without effect. On Sept. 27th of the same year another committee was ap- pointed to bear a petition to Admiral Cochrane, of the British fleet, asking his permission to obtain sup- plies of food and fuel from the continent. The com- mittee were well received, and Cochrane expressed a friendly feeling for the Nantucket people, and sent a despatch to Commodore Hotham advising him to grant the indulgence, provided the islanders agreed to pay no direct taxes or internal duties for the sup- port of the U. S. Government; otherwise the indul- gence should become void, and the people should pay double the amount of the taxes to the British Gov- ernment. Thus they found themselves "between the devil and the deep sea." In this emergency a meet- ing was called to determine what action should be taken. It was voted "that no taxes or internal rev- enue should be paid to the Government during the war, and that a committee be appointed to carry into effect the neutrality, which is agreed on with Com- modore Hotham." The privilege thus obtained af- forded relief for a brief time, but the coast was so invested with British privateers that it was still ex- tremely hazardous for vessels to venture out. The situation was rendered harder by internal jealousies, caused by the conditions of the grant of indulgence. On February 2d, 1814, a treaty of peace was pro- claimed, and on February 18th it was ratified. Nat- urally this event brought great joy to the people. It was found at the close of the war that about one-half of the whaling fleet were left. Twenty-two had been taken and condemned, one was lost at sea. Business was commenced with alacrity. In a very short time several ships were sent to sea, but the limited amount SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 63 of capital remaining made a system of long credits necessary, which condition greatly impeded their pro- gress. The town was called upon to pay large amounts to the Government as a direct tax. It was also heavily burdened with the support of the depend- ent poor, whose numbers had increased 100 per cent. during the war. Great suffering was experienced for several years after the war, and the recovery was very slow. Many of the people were compelled to mi- grate to other places, where the conditions of life might be more favorable. The Civil War. BY DR. BENJAMIN F. PITMAN. The part which Nantucket took in the Civil War showed that in no other town in the Union did patriot- ism have a deeper hold on the hearts of its inhabi- tants. The town furnished 213 men for the army, and 126 for the navy; or fifty-six more than its quota. These men filled all grades, from Brevet Major General (George Nelson Macy) down to the ranks. Of those who went from Nantucket there was a large percentage who, by ability and education, were fitted to command, but who, from lack of places, served faithfully in the ranks. Company I of the 20th Massachusetts regiment was composed largely of Nantucket men. This regi- ment was in the battles of Ball's Bluff, all engage- ments before Richmond under McClellan, Antietam, Fredericksburg, Chancellorsville, the Wilderness, Spottsylvania, Cold Harbor, Gettysburg, Petersburg, and many smaller engagements. It earned the dis- tinction of being one of only three regiments in the 64 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. Union Army that lost more men by the bullet than by disease. In Company H, 45th Massachusetts, there were more than forty men, all of whom went from Nan- tucket in a body, and saw active service in North Carolina under Gen. Burnside. There is a Post of the G. A. R. organized on the Island, and most of the survivors of the Civil War are members. It is named after Lieut. Commander Thomas M. Gardner. During the summer months many visitors, who are comrades belonging to the order in different parts of the country, attend its meetings. The Post itself numbers about forty- five comrades; auxiliary to it are about fifty associate members. There is, also, an auxiliary Woman's Relief Corps, of about one hundred mem- bers, who have accomplished a great deal of good; how much cannot be told, as, in common with several other Associated Charities, what they have done is known only to themselves, "letting not the right hand know what the left hand doeth." There is also a camp of the Sons of Veterans, not as large as it should be, but efforts are being made to increase its numbers. Nantucket has reason to be proud of its loyalty, for, in addition to the num- ber who served their country going direct from here, there were many Nantucket born men who enlisted from other places. They were found in almost every northern state from Maine to California. Their num- bers can never be known. Suffice it to state that within the area of a six mile radius in northern Ohio, eleven boys born in Nantucket went into the service of their country, and three of them gave their lives for the cause of freedom. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 65 Emigrations from Nantucket. It is a well known fact that migrations from the island have been, from an early date, of frequent oc- currence. The changing conditions of mercantile life here, resulting from the wars, the decline of whaling and other causes, account for many of these, but the restless habits engendered by a sea life probably are responsible for a large proportion. During the past half century there has been little to induce ambitious youth to remain on the island, and thousands of both sexes have gone out to seek more promising fields throughout the country. The purpose of the present writer is to deal with cases of the exodus of associated families rather than with the migrations of individuals. BARRINGTON, N. S. As early as 1761 a considerable colony of Nan- tucketers (as well as Cape Cod people) settled in Nova Scotia. In a letter received several years since from a resident of Barrington, near Cape Sable, N. S., we are told that nearly one hundred families from Cape Cod and Nantucket settled in that township in 1761-2 (soon after the expulsion of the French.) The writer gives a list of heads of families and their immediate descendants, which includes many of the Coffin, Gardner, Pinkham, Clark, Folger, Swain, Worth and Bunker families, and a few named Baker, West, 66 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. Smith, Davis, Tracy, Hussey, Vinson (or Vincent). He remarks that "descendants of John Coffin, Solo- mon Gardner, Chapman Swain, Richard Pinkham and Timothy Covel remain with us; the remainder, with few exceptions, have been lost sight of completely." Of the latter he says: "all of these must have left just before, and possibly on account of the Revolution. I have a list of lands of this township, forfeited on ac- count of the owners being absent from the country, dated 1784-30 in all, 22 of them Nantucket people." According to Obed Macy's History, in 1786 and 1787 another colony of Nantucketers "settled on the shore opposite to the town of Halifax, and there built houses, wharves, spermaceti candle works, stores, etc., calling the place Dartmouth. This enterprise was brought about by efforts of the English govern- ment to encourage the whale fishery within their own dominions. This colony carried on the business prof- itably for several years, with prospects of increasing success. "But their prosperity was not of long dura- tion, for in a few years some of the principal pro- moters of the removal grew uneasy, having a prospect of greater advantages held out to them to remove to Milford Haven, in the west of England, to establish and prosecute the whale fishery." Many of the colonists opposed this, but without effect. "A number of families removed to England, carrying their property with them, which proved so injurious to the interests of the remainder that they began immediately to abandon the enterprise and the place, disappointed in their hopes of a permanent settlement."* The place (Dartmouth) became nearly depopulated in a short time. Those who removed to *Macy, p. 135. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 67 Milford Haven carried on the business extensively during many years. By the removal to Halifax Nantucket was de- prived of much capital, and many of the most active whalemen. DUNKIRK, FRANCE. After the Revolutionary war a heavy tax was im- posed by the English on the exportation of sperm oil from America. This reduced the profits to such an extent that it became necessary for the ship owners to transfer their whaling business to foreign ports. On July 4, 1785, William Rotch, a large ship owner and merchant of Nantucket, with his son Benjamin, sailed for England to effect arrangements for removal to an English port. He selected Falmouth, but was unable to get the necessary concessions from the British government. He then proceeded to Dunkirk, France, and made proposals which were accepted by the French government. In 1786 he sailed for home to make arrangements for transferring his business to France. From that time until 1794 he carried on the whaling business extensively in Dunkirk, employ- ing many Nantucket captains and seamen. It has been stated that he subsequently engaged in whaling from Milford Haven, England, afterwards returning to Nantucket. As a result of these large migrations of sea-faring men from the island, it soon became so depleted of this class that "few men were left capable of going to sea." As many ships were still owned here "it became necessary to resort to the continent for a large por- 68 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. tion of each crew, whence there were brought some Indians and a great number of negroes. Many of the latter took up their residence here." HUDSON, N. Y. In "Historical Sketches of Hudson" we find the following: "In the year 1783 a considerable number of the inhabitants of Nantucket, desirous of bettering their fortunes, determined to leave it and make a set- tlement somewhere upon the Hudson River. "The enterprise originated in Providence, R. I., but was joined by others from Nantucket and Martha's Vineyard. Thomas Jenkins, to whom, more than to any other individual, it owed its success, although a native of Nantucket, was at that time a resident of Providence, and a wealthy merchant. In the spring of 1783 he formed an association to consist of not more than thirty members, all of whom should be merchants, or concerned in navigating the deep." In July, 1783, Cotton Gelston came to the island to secure accessions to this association, for the purpose of purchasing a suitable place for a town somewhere on the Hudson, and the following persons joined it;- Stephen Paddock, Jos. Barnard, Chas. Jenkins, De- borah Jenkins, Gideon Gardner, Reuben Folger, Alex- ander Coffin, Benjamin Hussey, Shubael Worth, Paul Hussey, Benjamin Folger, Reuben Macy, Walter Fol- ger, Benjamin Starbuck and John Cartwright. The above named company, with others from Martha's Vineyard, Newport and Providence, pro- ceeded to New York and purchased a tract on the Hudson, at what was then known as Claverack Land- ing. On Nov. 14, 1784, the name of the settlement was changed to Hudson. This place subsequently be SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 69 came a considerable whaling port. Many descend- ants of Nantucket families are still living there. There were other settlements of Nantucket fam- ilies on the Hudson, at Poughkeepsie, Nine Partners, and other points. Nine Partners was the name of a locality north of Hudson; there was a large board- ing-school there, much patronized by Nantucket fam- ilies who lived in that vicinity. From 1771 to 1775 a large number of families emi- grated to New Garden, Guilford Co., North Carolina. The compiler has seen a list of 46 men who went dur- ing that time. At the present time there is a cotton factory named Nantucket Mills in this locality, which is owned by descendants of Nantucket people. There were also colonies that went to Vassalboro and Kennebec, Maine. About the year 1835 a number of families went to Auburn, N. Y. RAVENNA, OHIO. In 1844-5 a considerable colony removed to Ra- venna, Ohio, and engaged in farming. In a list of heads of families furnished the compiler by Dr. B. F. Pitman, (who was one of the party) 29 names appear, 21 of them being sea-captains. Other families settled in Cleveland, Ohio, and Troy, N. Y., and in Indiana and other western states. CALIFORNIA. News of the discovery of gold in California in 1849 aroused great excitement in Nantucket. The business of whaling had at that time became greatly depressed, with little prospect of recovery. There were only seven ships fitted during that year, three of the number only making successful voyages. 70 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. Nine vessels sailed the same year for San Fran- cisco from this port; three fitted from Boston and two from New York, also owned or officered by Nantucket men. The "Aurora" was the first ship which sailed for that port, Jan. 9th, under command of Capt. Seth M. Swain. The ship was owned by C. G. and H. Coffin and others, and was loaded with build- ing frames, lumber, naval stores, candles, etc. Other ships sailing for San Francisco the same year were:- Henry Astor, Capt. Geo. F. Joy, March 12th. Montana, Capt. Edward C. Austin, May 31st. Edward, Capt. Shubael Clark, June 5th. Brig Joseph Butler, Capt. Francis F. Gardner, July 1st. ton. Sarah Parker, Capt. James Codd, July 7th. Fanny, Capt. Uriah Russell, Aug. 27th. Martha, Capt. Eben M. Hinckley, Oct. 16. Citizen, Capt. Oliver C. Coffin, Dec. 17th. George and Martha, Capt. Richard Gardner, Bos- Scotland, Capt. Barzillai T. Folger, Boston. Manchester, Capt. Job Coleman, New York. Schooner Two Brothers, Capt. Edwin Baldwin, New York. Of the hundreds of Nantucket men who embarked for California in 1849 to seek their fortunes, but a small proportion achieved any lasting success. Many of their descendants have been identified with the later development of the Golden State, some of whom have been prominent in professional and mercantile pursuits. A list of the "Forty Niners" may be seen at the Historical Rooms. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 71 Some Natives of Nantucket Who Became Prominent. ABIAH FOLGER. Daughter of Peter and Mary Folger. Born at Nantucket Aug. 15, 1667. Married Josiah Franklin of Boston, and was the mother of Dr. Benjamin Franklin. She died 1752. In 1900 a memorial foun- tain was erected by the Abiah Folger Chapter, D. A. R., on the site of her birth-place, a short distance west of the town. MARY STARBUCK. Mary Starbuck, seventh child of Tristram Coffin, Sr., born in Haverhill Feb. 20, 1645. Married in 1662 to Nathaniel Starbuck. She died Sept. 13, 1717. She was a woman of strong character and excep- tional intelligence; took an active part in town af- fairs, and was regarded as a leader and judge. In 1701 she adopted the religious faith of the Friends. The first meeting was formed at her house and con- tinued to meet there four years. This house, which stood on what is now the W. T. Swain farm, was called the "Parliament House." DR. ZACCHEUS MACY. Born at Nantucket Dec. 7, 1713. Died at same place Oct. 27, 1797. A He was for more than forty years the principal surgeon on the island, and is said to have performed over 2000 operations during that time, never charg- ing for his services. He was a staunch friend to the 72 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. native Indians; attended them and supplied them with food during the epidemic that raged among them in 1763-4. Dr. Macy was one of the most prominent citizens of his time, and was highly respected. Quo- tations from a letter of his to the Mass. Hist. Society will be found in chapter on the Indians. WILLIAM ROTCH. Son of Joseph Rotch and Mary Macy; born at Nantucket 1734. He became a large ship-owner and merchant. During the Revolutionary War he was one of a committee appointed by the town to proceed to Newport to petition the British commander-in- chief for protection from depredations on our com- merce. A guarantee was obtained from Sir Henry Clinton and Sir George Tupper. In 1785 Mr. Rotch and son went to England and endeavored to obtain privileges from the government to enable him to carry on the whaling business; failing in this, he proceeded to Dunkerque, France, where he was grant- ed privileges, and engaged in whaling extensively until 1793. In 1794 he returned to Nantucket. He was a member of the Friends' Society, and a man of exceptional force and capacity. He died at New Bed- ford May 16th, 1828. MIRIAM (KEZIAH) COFFIN. Daughter of Daniel and Abigail Folger. She was born Oct. 9, 1723. Married John Coffin; built a man- sion on Centre street and a country house at Quaise. She was an owner in many ships in the merchant trade; was a person of superior ability; was sus- pected of rendering assistance to the British during SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET, 73 the Revolution, also of practising smuggling on a large scale, and was tried for the latter in Watertown, Mass. She died suddenly from the effects of falling down stairs, March 29, 1790. She was the heroine of J. C. Hart's novel, "Miriam Coffin, or the Whale Fish- ermen." REUBEN CHASE. Son of Stephen and Dinah Chase; born at Nan- tucket June 23d, 1754; died here June 23d, 1824. The following facts of Chase's remarkable career are taken from a letter recently written by one of the Chase family: He is first mentioned as able seaman (age 20) in the "Alfred," of Providence, R. I., in 1776. In July, 1777, shipped again with Paul Jones in the "Ranger," and made a European cruise in that ship, his conduct in the action with the "Drake" eliciting favorable mention from Jones. When the "Ranger" returned to the United States in 1778 Chase came with her, and in the spring of 1779 shipped in the "Alliance," which carried Lafay- ette to France. Arriving at L'Orient, where Jones was fitting out the "Bon Homme Richard," Jones then took several of his old men out of the "Alliance" and made them officers in the "Bon Homme Richard;" among these was Reuben Chase, whom he made a midshipman. His conduct in the action with the "Serapis" again evoked Jones' com- mendation. In December, 1779, the "Richards" crew were transferred to the "Alliance," Chase going with them. The latter ship made a cruise ending at L'Ori- ent in February, 1780. Here Reuben Chase was ap- pointed second lieutenant in the French privateer "La Bon Adventure" (20 guns), John Mayrant cap- 74 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. tain and Thos. Potter first lieutenant (both from the "Richard"). This cruise lasted from March, 1780, to September, 1781, and was one of the most successful privateering enterprises recorded in history. On their return to the United States from this re- markable cruise, Mayrant, Potter and Chase, with other Americans, again enrolled themselves with Paul Jones in the new frigate "America" (74 guns) at Portsmouth. This ship was presented to the King of France in September, 1782, and her crew were honor- ably discharged. This was the end of Chase's career in the navy. It covered a period of about six years. Chase subsequently commanded packet ships ply- ing between New York and European ports. In 1787 he commanded the "Governor Clinton," making the run from New York to Dover Castle in 19 days. Paul Jones was a passenger with him on this voyage. Reu- ben Chase started in whaling in 1788-9 as captain of the ship "Union," of Nantucket, and continued 10 or 12 years as captain of whale-ships. He and Henry Gardner and others afterwards formed a company that owned several ships, and carried on a large busi- ness. Chase was six feet, four inches in height. The character of "Long Tom Coffin," in Cooper's novel, "The Pilot," was drawn from knowledge of Chase's career. HON. WALTER FOLGER, JR. Born at Nantucket June 12, 1765. He was six years judge of Court of Common Pleas; six years in the Massachusetts Senate; one year in House of Representatives, and four years in Congress; was one of the greatest mathematicians and mechanics of SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 75 } his day. In 1790 made a remarkable astronomical clock, which is still running; also made the first telescopes in this country, as well as compasses and other instruments. He received but little school edu- cation, and was mainly self-taught. He never learned a trade or studied with a lawyer. Once, when going to Congress, Mr. Folger and his sons carded, spun and wove cotton and woolen cloth for his suit, then cut and made it. Mr. Folger was easily the most dis- tinguished Nantucketer of his time; a man of genius and exceptional versatility, and a public-spirited citi- zen. WILLIAM MITCHELL. Born Nantucket, 1792; died April, 1869. Early in life he became interested in astronomy; observed the comet of 1811. Became master of the first free school in Nantucket, about 1827, commencing with 200 pupils; was a very successful teacher. He devoted his spare time to astronomy, and became eminent in that profession; was at one time member of State Senate, and for several years one of the Governor's Council. He married Lydia Coleman about 1812. All of their children were students; their daughter, Maria Mitchell, became distinguished as an astronomer. LUCRETIA MOTT. Daughter of Thomas and Anna (Folger) Coffin. Born Jan. 3, 1793, at Nantucket. A direct descendant of Tristram Coffin on paternal, and of Peter Folger on maternal side. At the age of eleven she went with her parents to Philadelphia. In 1811 married to James Mott. Of their six children, five arrived at maturity. Mrs. Mott was an approved minister of the Society 76 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. of Friends, and in 1828 took sides with Elias Hicks. She was of a strong and noble character and superior intellect; she became famous throughout the coun- try as a philanthropist. ANNA GARDNER. Daughter of Oliver and Hannah Macy Gardner. Born at Nantucket Jan. 25, 1816. Early in life she identified herself with the anti-slavery movement. At the age of 25 she was instrumental in calling an anti- slavery convention in Nantucket; at this meeting, Frederick Douglass made his first appearance as a public speaker. After the Civil War she was one of the first teachers of freedmen in North and South Carolina and Virginia, remaining in the South until 1878. Miss Gardner was an ardent advocate of woman's suffrage and of other reforms. She was an able writer of prose and verse, and published a volume of poems in 1881. She was highly respected in the community. Died in Nantucket Feb. 18, 1901. HON. CHARLES J. FOLGER. Born at Nantucket in 1818. When he was 13 the family removed to Geneva, N. Y. He graduated from Hobart College in 1836, admitted to bar in 1839, ap- pointed judge of Court of Common Pleas in 1844. In 1851 elected county judge (Ontario), serving four years. In 1861 elected to State Senate. In 1869 Judge Folger was appointed Sub-Treasurer of the United States in New York City; in 1880 Chief Justice of Court of Appeals, and in 1882 Secretary of United States Treasury. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 77 MARIA MITCHELL. She was the second daughter of William and Lydia C. Mitchell, and was born at Nantucket Aug. 1, 1818. She was interested with her father in astronomy, as- sisting in his observations, and finally became a stud- ent of mathematical astronomy. In 1847 she discovered the comet which bears her name, and for this discovery received a gold medal from the King of Denmark. On the opening of Vassar College she was invited to fill the chair of mathemat- ical astronomy. She accepted and took entire charge of the observatory, remaining at Vassar until her death, June 28, 1889. She was highly esteemed by the students and faculty and by all who knew her. FERDINAND C. EWER, D. D. Son of Peter and Mary Ewer. Born at Nantucket May 22, 1826; baptized in Trinity Church 1843; grad- uated at Harvard in 1848, and in April, 1849, went to California, followed journalism, and edited a literary magazine. Studied for ministry; was ordained as deacon by Bishop Kip April 5, 1857. Received priest's orders in 1858, and was elected to fill Bishop Kip's place as rector, on the latter's resignation. In 1860, because of ill health, he offered his resig- nation, the acceptance of which was declined, and leave of absence was granted him for one year. He proceeded to New York, and soon decided to remain there. Became assistant of Rev. Dr. Gallaudet at St. Anne's Church, from which position he was called to rectorship of Christ Church. After severing his connection with the latter, he became rector of St. Ignatius, which position he held until his death. 1 78 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. Dr. Ewer was of versatile genius, being a civil en- gineer and something of a geologist. He did consid- erable literary work, mainly on theological subjects. In 1869 he made a survey of Nantucket and adja- cent islands, and drew the map which bears his name. He was of a kindly, genial disposition, and a favorite with all who knew him. He died in Montreal, strick- en suddenly while preaching in the Church of St. John Evangelist, in that city, Oct. 10, 1883. GEN. GEORGE NELSON MACY, U. S. A. Born at Nantucket September, 1837; died in Bos- ton February, 1875. Son of George Wendell Macy and Louisa Macy. In July, 1861, he received his ap- pointment as first lieutenant of Company I, 20th Mas- sachusetts regiment, and recruited 21 men for the regiment. "From Ball's Bluff to Appomatox Court-house he marched and fought. He served through the Penin- sula campaign of McClellan; in the first and second attacks on Fredericksburg; lost a hand at Gettysburg; was wounded in the Wilderness, and again on the James. He won his way by gallantry and efficiency to be major-general by brevet, and provost-marshal- general of the army." (Genealogy of the Macy fam- ily.) JOSEPH SIDNEY MITCHELL, M. D. He was born at Nantucket Dec. 9, 1839, and was the fifth child of Joseph and Sallie Folger Mitchell. He received a common school education in Nantucket, then went with the family to Boston, where he com- pleted his preparation for college. He entered Williams College in 1859, and was graduated in 1863. He had intended to enter the min- SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 79 istry, but decided upon medicine. He took the course of the Bellevue Medical College of New York, and immediately afterwards, in 1865, settled in Chicago, where he remained until his death on Nov. 4, 1898. In 1867 he married Helen, daughter of Joseph Leeds, of Pennsylvania, who, with their three children, sur- vives him. Soon after arriving in Chicago he was appointed a lecturer in Hahnemann Medical College, and in 1870 was given the chair of theory and practice of medi- cine in the same institution. In 1876 Dr. Mitchell was the prime mover in the reorganization of the Chicago Homeopathic Medical College, and was elected its president. He held this position twenty-two years, until his death. Under his able direction the college has grown to be one of the leading institutions of medical instruction in the United States. He was known by the medical profession throughout the country. His genius lay in a marvellous capacity for hard work and honest application. He impressed those who came in contact with him as a gentleman of the old school, always securing harmony and goodwill. His articles in magazines and scientific journals were always closely followed by all students of homeopathy. To Dr. Mitchell was also due the success of the Medical Congress at the Chicago World's Fair; his address was one of the ablest delivered there. He was elected president of the American Institute of Homeopathy, and presided at its annual meeting in Buffalo in 1897. At the organization of the Nantucket Historical Association in 1894 he was elected presi- dent, and in 1895 was re-elected. Probably no honor ever received by him gave him greater pleasure. Nan- 80 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. tucket may well cherish the memory of one of her most illustrious sons, who was also one of the most modest. CAPT. GEORGE WILLIAM COFFIN, U. S. N. Born at Nantucket Dec. 22, 1845; died at Yoko- hama, Japan, June 16, 1899. He was appointed from Massachusetts Dec. 20, 1860, as acting midshipman; July 16, 1861, as mid- shipman; and from that time rose steadily in the ser- vice until Sept. 27, 1893, when he was appointed cap- tain. He served in both the old and the new navy. In 1863, was assigned to the U. S. Sloop Ticonder- oga, of the North Atlantic blockading squadron, serv- ing in 1864-5 in both attacks on Fort Fisher, and was wounded in the knee during a land assault. In 1866 he served on U. S. Steamer Shawmut, Brazil squad- ron; and later on U. S. S. Frigate Franklin, European squadron, under Admiral Farragut. He served alternately on sea and shore until 1884, when he was appointed to command of Steamer Alert of Greeley relief expedition, under Schley. In 1894-6 was in command of U. S. S. Charleston; retired on account of ill health in 1897. On the outbreak of war with Spain, he was assigned to charge of 12th Light- house District, with head-quarters at San Francisco. His health again failed, and he was retired from ac- tive duty Oct. 1, 1898. He then proceeded to Yoko- hama, where his son-in-law, Dr. Frank Anderson, was in charge of U. S. Naval Hospital, and remained there until his death the following summer. Capt. Coffin was always a brave and efficient of- ficer, who earned his promotion by hard and constant routine service. He was on sea duty 16 years, 10 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 81 months; on shore duty for an equal period; on leave and waiting orders 4 years, 11 months; making total of 38 years, 6 months, 26 days. In December, 1866, he was married to Mary S. Cartwright, of Nantucket. She died in 1893, one daughter, the wife of Dr. Ander- son, surviving her. REV. LOUISE S. BAKER. Daughter of Capt. Arvin Baker and Jerusha Baker, of Nantucket. Born Oct. 17, 1846; died Sept. 19, 1896. She was educated in the town schools. On Dec. 12, 1880, she accepted the pastorate of the North Congregational church, and continued in it un- til Feb. 14, 1888. During her ministry she attracted the largest congregations ever known in the church. She was a prolific writer of graceful verse, and published a volume in 1893. WILLIAM FRANCIS BARNARD. He was the son of Wm. S. and Caroline J. (Gard- ner) Barnard, both of Nantucket. He was born Dec. 29th, 1840, and died March 20th, 1903. Early in the Civil War he enlisted in the Twenty- second Massachusetts Regiment. After serving nine months a severe attack of typhoid compelled him to retire from the army. In 1869 he was married to Marianna, daughter of Charles L. and Sarah (Ray) Sprague, of Nantucket. Three children were born to them, the eldest dying in infancy. A son and a daughter, with the mother, still survive. Mr. Barnard served from 1870 until his death, thirty-three years, as superintendent of the Five Points House of Industry, New York City, beginning three years previous to 1870 as assistant superinten- dent. 82 } SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. During this long period of service he suffered at frequent intervals from chronic ailments so serious as to induce him to offer his resignation, but, so valuable were his services to the institution, that the trustees would not consent to his retirement, and, with occasional brief vacations, he was enabled to continue his work to within a few weeks of his death. At the beginning of his long term of service the work of the institution was in its infancy, and its capacity was very limited, but, under his efficient ad- ministration, the demands upon it steadily increased, until it became necessary to provide the spacious and well-appointed edifice which is now in use. At the impressive memorial services in the chapel of the House of Industry, Mr. Morris K. Jesup, president of the Board of Trustees, delivered an elo- quent eulogy, in which he referred to Mr. Barnard as one of three men who had done the most lasting good among the poor of New York (the other two being Alexander McBurney, of the Y. M. C. A., and Charles L. Brace, of the Children's Aid Society). In 1899 Mr. Barnard was elected president of the Nantucket Historical Association, succeeding the late Dr. J. Sidney Mitchell. From the birth of that in- stitution in 1894 he manifested intense interest in its work, his fondness for his native island and all that pertained to its history being ever a ruling passion with him. Here was a son of Nantucket whose heart was never weaned from its allegiance; whose life, from first to last, bore witness to the faith which was in him. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 83 Under this article mention should be made of the large number of school teachers who have gone out from Nantucket during the past half-century. Many of these have attained the highest rank in their pro- fession. With but few exceptions, these teachers were women, and their names, too numerous to be given here, would form a roll of honor well worthy of perpetuation. The Town, Its Beginning and Development. We are told that the first settlers, in the summer of 1661, selected their houselots along the chain of ponds extending from Cappaum Harbor southward to the sea. Here the town was located until, over a dozen years later, many of the inhabitants had built houses at Wesco, the present location of the town. When once the settlement began to spread from Cappaum, the colonists seem to have scattered over various sections. In 1673 Richard Gardner received a grant of irregular shape comprising the land sur- rounding the Lily Pond, then called Wesquo Pond. His house was on Sunset Hill, just west from the Cof- fin House. The first land granted to Peter Folger was at a place called Rodgers field, on the North side of the swamp leading from Wesquo to Wauquittaquay (Hum- mock). He afterwards had 10 acres laid out to him at the southward of his lot. As the settlers increased in numbers many houses were built in what is now the western suburb, along the Madaket road and the roads intersecting it, and in the vicinity of Maxcy's and No-bottom Ponds. On the high ground northward of the latter pond stood the first town-house and jail, also the first Congre- ; 84 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. gational meeting-house (now the North Vestry). These buildings in their turns were removed east- ward to the present town. A considerable group of houses extended from the present head of Main street westward, and through what is known as the Haw- thorne lane; on this lane but one house now remains -Elihu Coleman's, built 1725. In 1671 the town was incorporated. In 1673 its name (up to that time Wesco) was changed to Sherburne, by order of Gov- ernor Lovelace. The same year whaling commenced in boats from the shore, and was soon after followed from numerous "stages" at Miacomet and other points along shore. As the whale-fishery grew in im- portance and larger vessels began to be used, the town naturally developed and converged along the harbor shore, the streets radiating east, south and west as the population increased. The increase is shown by the following figures: 1719, white popula- tion, 721; 1726, 917; 1763-4, whites 3220, Indians 358; 1774, 4545; 1784, 4269; 1800, 5617; 1810, 6807; 1820, 7266; 1840, 9712; 1850, 8779. From the latter date the population steadily decreased, being reduced to 3201 in 1875. In 1795 the name of the town was changed to Nan- tucket. After a long period of stagnation (following the decline of whaling and the great fire of 1846) the island began to be popular as a summer resort, but the inhabitants little dreamed of the extent to which this new business of entertaining strangers would develop within the half century. Even at the present time, in the face of steadily increasing prosperity, there are but few, comparatively, who realize that Nantucket has a future which will far eclipse the past. As the summer travel has steadily increased, SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 84A the town has improved in its appearance; many of the old mansions which had fallen into desuetude and decay have been reclaimed and made habitable, and in all sections an aspect of prosperity is noticeable. Several new hotels have been built and many fine summer cottages; but during several seasons past the accommodations for visitors in July and August have been far from adequate. It is to be hoped that in the near future several large hotels will be built, to be conducted after the most approved methods. A recent visitor to the island, whose profession has made him familiar with many countries, re- marked "You have the finest climate, take it all in all, I have known, the greatest number of pleasant days during the summer and fall. And there is a peculiar charm about your old town, where one may stroll for hours and be sheltered from sun and wind by interesting old mansions and lovely shade trees. Here one can sleep sound o' nights in the hottest weather, and be certain of a steady improvement in physical condition. There is a general air of com- fort and homelikeness throughout the town. tucket is the place for me." Nan- : SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 85 NANTUCKES Old Buildings and Landmarks. STORY OF THE MILLS. The records tell us that in 1666 the first settlers built a water-mill on Wesquo Pond (the remnant of which is the present Lily Pond). On June 10th, 1667, Peter Ffoulger was appointed to keep this mill for "two quarts in a bushel for his labor in grinding and to keep the running gear in or- der to beat the stones." "In 1668 William Bunker engaged to maintain the running gears and the hollow trees at the pond and the flume at the head of the mill." "In 1672 William Bunker agreed to build a corn mill. This was objected to by Tristram Coffin, and the town gave him the job of building the mill." It was probably on Wesquo Pond. Subsequently the old mill was converted into a fulling mill by Capt. John Gardner.* All later mills were built by private en- terprise. *There was a fulling mill on the Joseph Folger farm at Quaise; it stood as late as 1820. 86 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. The first windmill stood on a hill west of the road which leads to the waterworks. Another was in Quaise, on a hill south of the old stone fence. In 1723 a mill was built on the hill, not far from the site. of the present one. It was blown up in 1836 as an ex- periment in the explosive power of gunpowder. Sub- sequently four other mills were built on the Pop- squachett hills, three of which stood in a line run- ning westerly from the present mill. One of these stood within the bounds of the pres- ent cemetery, and was called the Spider mill. It had eight horizontal bars radiating from the top, to each of which, when running, a jib-shaped sail was at- tached. Mr. William B. Starbuck remembers play- ing in this mill when a boy. The north (round-top) mill was still standing in 1872, on the hill which is now enclosed in the North Cemetery. Its demolition is much to be regretted. A photograph of it may be seen in Wyer's "Nantucket Picturesque and Historic." The mill now standing was built in 1746, probably for Eliakim Swain, its timbers being of oak which grew a short distance south of its site. It was used occasionally for grinding corn as late as 1892. In 1897 it was sold at auction, and was bought for the Historical Association by Miss C. L. W. French. It is now carefully preserved, and is open to visitors during the summer months. This old mill, the last of its race, is the most distinctive and interesting of Nantucket landmarks, and is visited by thousands every season. THE TOWN CLOCK AND BELL. Nantucket would be lonesome indeed without its town clock and the old bell that sounds out the hours. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 87 The first clock was made in the town in 1823, and did faithful service for more than half a century. In 1881 the late Wm. H. Starbuck, of New York city, gener- ously presented his native town with a new clock made by the Howard Co., of Boston. It was set in motion in May, 1881, and is still keeping excellent time. THE LISBON BELL. In the belfry over the clock hangs this famous bell, which was brought from Lisbon, Portugal, in 1812. After reaching the island, it remained in stor- age until 1815, when it was purchased by the Uni- tarian Society, aided by outside subscriptions, and placed in the tower. It is the duplicate of a bell which at that time was one of a chime of six hanging in a convent near Lisbon. It bears an inscription in Portuguese, which translated reads: "To the good Jesus of the Mountain the devotees of Lisbon direct their prayers, offering him one complete set of six bells to call the people and adore him in his sanctu- ary. Jose Domingos da Costa has done it in Lisbon in the year 1810." This bell has an excellent tone, sounding on A, with a peculiar "singing" quality. Its tones, varying with atmospheric conditions, penetrate far over the island. The ancient custom of ringing peals at 7 A. M., 12 M. and 9 P. M., is still maintained, and has grown indispensable to the townspeople. "" THE JETHRO COFFIN" HOUSE. This weather-beaten mansion on Gardner's Hill was built in 1686, this fact being clearly indicated by the date which appears in relief on the chimney. On the opposite side of the chimney is a large horse-shoe, also built in the brick. 88 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. This house dates back to the old Sherburne days, and is typical of the architecture of that period. Sey- eral interesting traditions are attached to it. (See "Trustum and his Grandchildren.") This is called the oldest house now standing on the island, though there are probably others of approximate dates. The Cof- fin house is opened to visitors during the summer months, and is well worth inspection. THE "ELIHU COLEMAN" HOUSE. Built 1725, for Elihu Coleman, a minister of the Society of Friends. This worthy man was far in ad- vance of his time, for it is recorded that in 1739 he published a pamphlet against slave-owning. This house, which stands on the Hosier farm, west of the town, is another type of the Sherburne period. Its interior is interesting. Visitors are admitted during the summer by its present occupant. THE NORTH VESTRY. This building adjoins the rear of the North Con- gregational Church. It was the first Congregational Meeting House, and is supposed to have been built in 1711 on a hill north of the town. It was moved to Beacon Hill in 1767. It is still used by the Con- gregational Society, and is attractive in its quaint simplicity. THE FRIENDS' SCHOOL (AND MEETING) HOUSE. The building in Fair street now owned by the Historical Association was built in 1838 for a Friends' school-house; the Meeting-house stood on an adjoin- ing lot. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 89 When the Society became reduced to a small number, it sold the Meeting-house and used the school- house until meetings were discontinued. THE JAIL. This primitive structure was built in 1805; its timbers are still sound, and its interior arrangements are as complete (not to say luxurious) as ever they were. At least no sane Nantucketer has ever com- plained of its accommodations while enjoying them. In a letter written about 1830, the writer, in describ- ing the jail, says: "Of its two present incumbents, one prisoner is deranged, and refuses to quit, and the other might go too if he would." Since that time history has often repeated itself. It is probable that the old yarn about the sheep entering and disturbing prisoners is without founda- tion in fact. Visitors all agree that they never saw a jail like it elsewhere. Long may it stand as a land- mark and a menace (?) to offenders! BIRTH PLACE OF MARIA MITCHELL. Built in 1790. In this house in Vestal street, Aug. 1, 1818, was born Maria Mitchell, daughter of Wil- liam and Lydia C. Mitchell. She became distin- guished as an astronomer, and was for many years professor of that science at Vassar College, where her memory is still revered. This house is open to . the public during the summer months.* SITE OF THE FOLGER HOUSE. A short distance west of the town, on the Madaket road, is the site of the Peter Folger house, where on Aug. 15, 1667, Abiah, youngest daughter of Peter and Mary Folger, was born. She married Josiah Franklin, *See appendix 4. 90 SEAGIRT NANTUCKET. of Boston, and was the mother of Benjamin Franklin. He was born a short time after her removal to Bos- ton. In 1900 a memorial fountain was erected by the Abiah Folger Chapter, D. A. R., on this site. THE GARDNER HOUSE. This old homestead on the Cliff road was built in 1724 for Richard Gardner 3rd, son of Richard Gard- ner, Jr., who was married the same year. It fronts south, and is one of the finest types of the early archi- tecture. It is not open to the public. THE CAPTAINS' BUILDING. This building, the property of the Pacific Club, was built for William Rotch, the famous ship-owner, in 1765, and was used by him as a warehouse. The "Captains' Room" is still used by the club. The Custom House occupies an office on the second floor. The Atheneum Library. From an able and exhaustive paper written for the Inquirer and Mirror in 1900 by Miss Sarah F. Barnard, for many years the popular librarian of this institu- tion, the following is condensed: "The origin of the library was as follows: In 1820 seven young men of Nantucket associated themselves under the name of the Nantucket Mechanics' Social Library Association. In 1823 another society was formed and named the Columbian Library Society. In 1827 the two societies united, and the new society was called the United Library Association. In 1833 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 91 two of its members, David Joy and Charles G. Coffin, bought a lot on Main street, which they presented to the Society, on condition that they would raise $3500 and build a brick building. The sum of $4200 was raised. This lot proving too small, it was exchanged for the property of the Universalist Church (the site of the present Atheneum). The church building was remodelled and used for the library until it was de- stroyed, with all its contents, in the great fire of 1846. The library at that time contained 3200 volumes, but few of which were saved. The following year, 1847, saw the new Library buiding rise from the ashes of the old. From the contributions of stockholders, largely augmented by gifts from Boston and other towns, the new library opened with 1600 volumes. 攀 ​The present building (which is similar in archi- tecture to the former one) was completed, and the li- brary opened to the public Feb. 1, 1847. A committee of the proprietors was appointed to solicit contributions for the Museum, and this call was generously responded to. At the annual meeting, Jan. 4, 1847, the following officers were elected: President, William Mitchell; Vice-President, Thos. Macy; Treasurer, Joseph Mitchell; Corresponding Secretary, Augustus Morse, Recording Secretary, Henry C. Worth; Trustees, Edward G. Kelley, Sam- uel B. Tuck, Eben Coleman, Charles Bunker, George H. Folger. * * * The new library had a solid foundation of valu- able books; this has been a frequent cause of com- ment from visitors. The library was fortunate in its ► 92 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. librarian, Maria Mitchell, who was always alive to its interests, and under whose able administration a high standard was maintained. The prosperity of the Atheneum, as well as of the island, was seriously affected in 1849 by the large exodus from our town on the discovery of gold in California. Its finances were much impaired, also, for some years after the Civil War. In 1870, by means of an extensive fair, in which the proprietors and townspeople assisted, the library benefitted to the amount of $3000. The building was then put in excellent order, the library replenished, and the Atheneum was on a solid financial basis. It has also been enriched by bequests to the aggregate amount of $27,000. In 1883 the library had increased to 7,000 vol- umes. Its capacity was then enlarged; the books rearranged and a catalogue printed. The number of volumes has been steadily increased up to the pres- time, there being now 20,000 volumes. In 1899 a valuable donation of books and pictures was received (a bequest from the late Frederic C. Sanford). It included 1000 books and 52 pictures. The books were mainly standard works in expensive bindings, and are a collection of which any library might be proud. Before many years the whole floor of the building will be required for the library. In the forties and fifties, annual courses of lec- tures were given, which proved very popular and in- structive. Many of the most brilliant orators and scholars of that period delivered lectures in the Athe- neum Hall. Among them were Prof. Silliman, John Pierpont, Theodore Parker, Thos. Starr King, Ralph SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET, 93 W. Emerson, Wm. R. Alger, Wendell Phillips, Geo. Wm. Curtis, John G. Saxe, Horace Greeley, and many others. In 1899 a radical change was made in the library room; the old alcoves were replaced with modern steel stacks, with adjustable shelves. A card cata- logue was also made, and the books rearranged and recatalogued. On April 3, 1900, this institution opened its doors for the first time as a Free Public Library. This step has proved an entire success, the number of book- takers having increased within the year about six- fold. The Nantucket Athletic Club. In 1890 a number of gentlemen, including resi- dents and non-residents, realizing the need of a club- house containing facilities for athletic games and other recreations, held several meetings to formulate plans. The club was then incorporated. A consider- able sum of money was subscribed, and soon after- ward a lot was bought on the beach north of the steamboat wharf. After these steps had been taken twelve years elapsed, during which the enterprise re- mained in statu quo. In October, 1903, meetings were again held, a number of new members enrolled, and plans for a clubhouse were made. In the autumn of 1904 work was begun, and on the opening of the season of 1905 the building was finished, fully equipped and ready for use. The clubhouse contains two bowling alleys, a billiard room, reception room, card rooms, and a spa- cious amusement hall. The young people of the sum- 94 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. mer colony were prompt in showing their appreci- ation of the new enterprise, patronizing it liberally. During the winter months many local members have engaged in bowling tournaments, great interest being manifested in the games. Receptions and balls are held at intervals, and occasional concerts and readings during the season. The rather plain furnishings at first put in have been improved and added to through the generosity of interested members; many useful articles, pictures and ornaments have been donated, the interior being made attractive and home-like. The club has a limited membership, which is en- tirely of men, though many privileges have been ex- tended to the ladies. Applications for membership may be made to any member. The applicant must be of good moral character and vouched for by two club members. The Historical Association. This institution, now so popular and flourishing, had its birth in 1894, and, considering its brief span of life, certainly makes a creditable showing. The group of members forming its council have been most fortunate in inspiring and holding the confidence of Nantucketers at home and abroad, without which their efforts must have been unavailing. The old Friends' Schoolhouse (later used as their Meeting-house) was purchased during the first year for a headquarters. In this building, during the ten years of its occupancy, was gathered a varied and in- teresting collection, comprising well-nigh every article and implement ever used by Nantucketers on land or sea, also many valuable portraits, books, maps, docu- SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 95 ments, photographs, log-books, etc., all of which tes- tify eloquently of Nantucket's bygone days. Soon after the organization of the association, as the collection rapidly increased in extent and value, the Council realized the importance of providing, as soon as practicable, a fireproof building for its pro- tection. A fund was at once started, and in 1903 about $3,000 had been raised, and it was voted to proceed at once to erect the fireproof building. The corner- stone was laid by President Starbuck on July 21st, 1904, the day of the tenth annual meeting. Contracts had already been made for a structure to be built of concrete, on the lot in the rear of the Meeting-house, and adjoining that building. The new building con- sists of a basement, main floor and gallery, with a one-story vestibule projecting eastward. The build- ing is considered by competent judges to be abso- lutely fireproof. It is abundantly lighted from numer.. ous wired glass windows and a large skylight. The whole collection, including the articles transferred from the Athenaeum Museum, is now effectively dis- played, and attracts many visitors. A generous be- quest of $5,000, recently received from the estate of Miss Susan Wilson Folger, which was increased by a residuary gift of the same amount, enabled the Coun- cil to pay all bills on the new structure, the remain- ing amount, $5,000, being invested as a permanent memorial to Miss Folger, the interest to be used for publication purposes. Now that the association and its collection may be considered as on a permanent foundation, it is hoped that a large accession of new members will 96 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. show their appreciation of the work thus far accom- plished, and aid in its further development. The value of this collection to the community can hardly be over-estimated. The older generation of Nantucketers is rapidly passing away. It is of the utmost importance that the records, documents, por- traits and household articles which were used in the early days should be collected and preserved. All Nantucketers and their descendants, who are not already members, are earnestly requested to send in their names for enrollment. Visitors, whether of Nantucket lineage or not, are also eligible. The annual fee is one dollar. Ad- dress Treasurer Nantucket Historical Association. The annual meeting is held during the third week in July. A reception is held at a leading hotel in the evening, for members and their guests. The Historical Rooms are open to the public (a small fee being charged) during the summer months, Hours, 9 to 12 and 2 to 5. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. Sons and Daughters of Nantucket. 97 In the year 1894, Mr. Alexander Starbuck, of Wal- tham, one of Nantucket's sons who has always taken a keen interest in everything pertaining to his native town, conceived the idea of calling together as many as possible of the people of Nantucket birth or de- scent who lived in or near Boston. On his own re- sponsibility Mr. Starbuck engaged a large dining room at the United States Hotel, in Boston, and issued in- vitations to all Nantucketers in eastern Massachu- setts whose addresses could be obtained. Sixty-six persons responded, and after the dinner, a permanent organization was formed under the name which heads this article, with Mr. Starbuck as presi- dent. By-laws were adopted providing that anyone of Nantucket birth or descent, as well as husbands or wives of the same, might join the association by paying one dollar and signing the constitution. Since that date a reunion and dinner have been held at some hotel in Boston in November of each year, and the attendance has increased steadily year by year as shown by the following figures: 1895, 104; 1896, 121; 1897, 119; 1898, 135; 1899, 155; 1900, 164; 1901, 170. There are now about 200 members enrolled, and the organization is in a flourishing and prosperous condition. The annual reunions have been delightful occa- sions, Nantucketers of all ages, from boys and girls in their teens to patriarchs of four score or more years, meeting in pleasant interchange of mutual in- terests, renewing old friendships and forming new ones, and all bound together by the one tie of a com- mon nativity. 98. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. It has often been suggested that Nantucketers in other cities follow Boston's example, and organize similar associations. Almost every large city in the country has a considerable contingent of Nantucket people. In New York, for instance, there are several hundred, and an organization on the same general lines as the Boston society would doubtless meet with equal success, and prove equally enjoyable to its mem- bers. It needs only some enthusiast of Mr. Starbuck's type to start the ball rolling, and the result would be as gratifying as the success of the Sons and Daught- ers of Nantucket (of Boston) has been to its founder and first president. Nantucket Schools. W. F. M. Probably the first settlers of Nantucket were in unity with, and possibly aided in framing laws rela- tive to education, in the towns of the Massachusetts Plantation before emigrating to Nantucket. From the town records of Amesbury of 1647, the following action is copied: "In order that Satan-the old deluder-should not keep men from the knowledge of the Scriptures, by reason of being printed in unknown tongues, it is ordered that every township, as soon as it reached fifty householders, should appoint one within their own town to teach all such children as shall resort to them to read and write." Several of the early settlers came to Nantucket from Amesbury. That some early provision was made in Nantucket is evident from the ability displayed by their descendants, to write not only a legible hand, but in some instances a really beautiful script; and SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 99 also to be able to spell correctly, according to the style of their time. In the town meeting records of 1716 the following vote is recorded: Voted, that the town will choose a school master for the year ensuing, also voted that the town will hire Eleazer Folger for a school master for the year ensuing. Voted, that the town will give Eleazer Folger three pounds cur- rent money to keep school one year, and he consents to keep for the above mentioned sum." Timothy White, a missionary from Boston, left valuable records of his labors as a preacher and a teacher of youth from 1725 to 1755. Prices of tuition, methods of payment, and names of families sending children to his school are espec- ially notable. Friends early started schools for their families.* "Dame" schools existed for small children and girls of all ages. Thus on to 1800 education throve in these primi- tive ways. From 1800 to 1827 private schools still continued, and some of them noted for excellence in the teach- ing of mathematics and various languages. A growing need of public instruction, however, was gaining ground, and despite considerable opposi- tion to "Charity Schools," the town in 1827 established public schools. At first few in number, but by 1850 there were twelve schools in the town precincts, thir- ty teachers, eleven hundred and eighty-four pupils. Ex-Gov. Briggs, of Mass., in an address to the graduating class of the Albany Normal School in 1850, alluded to the successful system of public edu- *In 1796 a school-house was ordered to be built at a cost of 250 pounds ($833.33.) 100 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. cation in Massachusetts. He especially mentioned the "royal island of Nantucket" as an instance of re- markable progress in educational directions. Nathan Comstock was engaged to keep school at the rate of 360 shillings ($60) per month Nov. 29, 1797. Abiel Hussey was engaged to teach school at the rate of seventy shillings ($12) for thirty-five scholars Nov. 29, 1797. The High School dates from 1838. Mr. Cyrus Pierce, a noted educator, first filled the position of principal. Hundreds of Nantucket's sons and daught- ers have honored their Alma Mater at home and abroad. The old building was replaced by the pres- ent structure in 1854. The decline in population since 1860 has occa- sioned a reduction of schools to a marked extent. The building known as the "Academy Hill School- house" now accommodates on the lower floor inter- mediate and primary grades; on the second floor the high and grammar departments. The first floor of the town hall on Orange street is used as school rooms for young children residing in the south part of the town. There are also three village schools, Siasconset, Polpis and Tuckernuck island. Present number of teachers, fourteen; pupils, four hundred and nine. In 1903 the Coffin School was reopened as a Manual Training School, under the jurisdiction of the Public School Board. (See article on Coffin School.) In 1904 the interior of the High School building was re- modelled to meet present requirements, and new heating and plumbing systems were introduced, the results of these improvements being most satisfactory. H. B. W. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET, 100A THE COFFIN SCHOOL. This school was founded by Sir Isaac Coffin, a descendant of Tristram, born in Boston, who entered the British navy in Colonial times and won fame and fortune in service against the French. In his old age he revisited the land of his birth and, finding at Nantucket a large community akin to himself, with no public schools, he determined to provide a school for his relatives. In 1827 Admiral Sir Isaac Coffin's Lancasterian School was incorporated "for the pur- pose of promoting decency, good order and morality, and of giving a good English education to the youth who are descendants of the late Tristram Coffin." The Admiral gave a wooden schoolhouse and an en- dowment of £5,833 sterling. The town soon established public schools, and the Coffin School became an academy, supported partly by the income from its fund and partly by tuition fees. Its standards were high, and many of our col- leges and technical schools admitted students on its certificate of preparation. After the great fire it was closed for some years, and the present substantial schoolhouse was built in 1852. Its fund has been gradually increased by wise investment. But as popu- lation and wealth declined, there was no longer de- mand for an academy which duplicated, to a certain extent, the work of the public schools, the endowment alone was not sufficient to support it, and it was closed in 1898. In 1903 the trustees sclved the problem of main- taining their institution while adapting it to present needs by co-operating with the public school system ' 100B SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. and providing manual training without expense to the town. The children from grammar and high schools go to the Coffin School for instruction in mechanical drawing, wood-work and sewing, as part of the school course. In addition, there is a class in cabinet work two evenings a week, for men and boys, and one afternoon for women, and lessons in basketry have been furnished by private gift. Since the new work was undertaken the school has received an equipment for bench wood-work from Miss Elizabeth R. Coffin, in memory of her father, Andrew G. Coffin, and a gift of four fine lathes from Prof. William Watson; the old school library has been put in thorough repair and made beautiful by Mrs. Maria L. Owen, in memory of her grandfather, William Coffin, first president of the board of trus- tees, and a handsome case has been given for the books of the Frances Mitchell Macy memorial. trustees have also received the sum of $10,000 from the estate of the late Miss Susan Wilson Folger, ac- cording to the provisions of her will. This is the first addition to the endowment since the death of the Ad- miral, and is, we trust, the forerunner of other gifts and bequests which will make it possible to provide special training for boys and girls as they leave school. The Nantucket grows in favor as a seaside resort, and the summer business keeps a resident population on the island, but its winters are stagnant and without wholesome interests for the young people. It would be an inestimable blessing if the way could be opened for them to fit themselves here at home for useful, practical work. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 100 The Coffin School is devoted freely to the public service and is doing all its fund permits in this direc- tion. It is furnishing the school children a training in accuracy and skill of hand equal to that given in the best city schools, and it is reaching out for means to bring to every Nantucket boy and girl the oppor- tunity for practical education in handicrafts. With ample endowment the wood-work might be carried on into constructive carpentry, the sewing into dress- making, and arts and crafts might be developed to supply the demand of our summer visitors for articles made on the island. By such opportunities many a boy and girl would be guarded from the dangers of idleness and started on a useful life. The Coffin School Association, composed of gradu- ates of the old academy and of others who have the welfare of the island at heart, has begun an effort to add to the endowment for this work. It appeals for help to all who are bound to Nantucket by memories of the past and to all who are today sharing the life of the little community. Generous contributions have been received, but much more is needed. Subscrip- tions may be sent to the treasurer of the endow- ment committee, Miss E. R. Coffin, P. O. box 164, Nantucket. An exhibition of work done in the school is open afternoons in summer in the school building on Win- ter street, and visitors are cordially welcomed. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 101 Churches. The following statistics have been obtained from the pamphlet "Churches and Pastors of Nantucket, Mass., From the First Settlement to the Present Time," by Rev. Myron S. Dudley, 1902, and from other sources. FIRST CONGREGATIONAL. According to tradition the first meeting-house used by this society was built in 1711, on the hill north of No-Bottom Pond. It is said to have been used at first as a town-house. From the time of its erection until 1725 nothing definite is known of its history. On May 9th of that year, Mr. Timothy White began preaching the Gospel at Nantucket, probably in this building. He was not an ordained minister, but came to the island by the authority of a missionary society to superintend the religious work among the Indians; also as a teacher, and as preacher to the First Con- gregational Church. His term of service in the lat- ter capacity was twenty-five years. In 1767 the church building was moved to Beacon Hill, where it now stands-known as the North Vestry. In 1834 a new church was built on Beacon Hill, the Vestry being moved back to make room for it. This building has been used by the society ever since. The church, from its beginning to the present time, has had twenty-seven settled pastors. 102 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. METHODIST EPISCOPAL. Methodism was established on the island in 1799. The first regularly appointed preacher was William Beauchamp, who came here in 1799. At first meet- ings were held in the Town Hall, but the first church edifice was dedicated Jan. 1st, 1800. It stood at the southwest corner of Fair and Lyon streets. The present church building on Centre street was dedi- cated in 1823. The names of seventy-two ministers appear on its roll. SECOND CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH. (Unitarian.) This society was organized and incorporated in 1810. The church building was erected during the same year. The first minister was Rev. Seth F. Swift, who was installed the first year, and held the pastor- ate until 1833. Since the latter date there have been seventeen pastors. PROTESTANT EPISCOPAL. A church was organized on March 31, 1838, and steps were taken toward erecting a church building. On September 18, 1839, the Trinity Episcopal Church was consecrated. It stood on the lot in Broad street, next the Ocean House. This building was burned in the great fire of 1846. There had been a heavy debt on it, and the property was turned over to the cred- itors. The church organization was dissolved Sept. 21, 1846, and the new parish organized Sept. 28 of the same year. A new church was afterwards built in Fair street; it was dedicated in Aug., 1850. In June, 1901, Miss C. L. W. French, of Boston, offered to present the parish with a stone church edifice, as SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 108 a memorial to her father. The offer was accepted, and the new edifice built on the site of the old. From 1838 to 1901 there have been fifteen rectors. BAPTIST. The First Baptist Church, whose house of wor- ship is situated on Summer street, was organized in 1839. The Rev. Daniel Round, Jr., was its first pas- tor, remaining nearly five years. In 1879 he again took the pastorate, remaining three years. There have been twenty-four pastors to November, 1901. ROMAN CATHOLIC. This church, from its beginning until 1903, was in the charge of non-resident priests. Services were hel in the Town Hall as early as 1849, and later in Pan- theon Hall. The Rev. Father McNulty, of New Bed- ford, was probably the first to celebrate mass in Nan- tucket. At some time previous to 1858 a hall stand- ing on Federal street was purchased and consecrated this site in 1897. Rey. Father McGee was appointed resident priest in 1903, and still remains in charge. Old Cemeteries. Several of the older cemeteries in Nantucket pos- sess elements of interest to lovers of history. The first public cemetery was probably the one on a hill near Maxcy's Pond; this ground was used for many years by the early settlers. Traces of the graves of a 104 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. number of them still exist. Some years since a new granite monument was placed at the grave of the famous Captain John Gardner; (the inscription upon it will be found in the chapter on the first settlers.) Early in the 18th century members of the Gardner family set apart for burial purposes the lot at the northeast corner of New and Grove lanes; this was long known as the Gardners' burial ground, though for many years it was used for a public cemetery. On approaching it from the east or south, a conspicuous object is the monument at the grave of Robert Rat- liff, who, as the inscription states, was born at New- castle-on-Tyne, England, February 25, 1794, and died at Nantucket February 20, 1882. He was a seaman on board ship "Northumber- land,” Sir George Cockburn, Commander, which car- ried Napoleon 1st to St. Helena in 1815; was also a seaman on ship "Albion" in the attack on the city of Washington in 1814. In 1820 he was shipwrecked on Nantucket Island, where he resided the remainder of his life. He was a successful master shiprigger for fifty years, honored for his integrity, his courtesy and generosity." Within a stone's throw of Ratliff's grave are two of other castaways antedating him by more than a century. On one of the stones is this inscrip- tion: "Here lies buried Capt. Thomas Delap, of Barn- stable, son of Mr. James Delap and Mrs. Mary, his wife. He was cast ashore on Nantucket December ye 6th, 1771, and perished in ye snowstorm there, aged 26 years, 7 months, and 11 days." Close beside the young captain's grave is that of one of his crew, Amos Otis, who met a similar tragic fate. Doubtless there are many other graves of ship-wrecked mariners, long un- marked and forgotten, in this old "silent acre." SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 105 Near by are many graves over a century old, marked by the conventional slate slabs of that period; others have moss-covered stones of earlier date, gen- erally bearing quaint inscriptions below the names. There is an atmosphere of exceeding peace in this neglected inclosure, overgrown with wild rose, myrtle and berry vines. The Friends' first burial ground was not far from the site of the one first mentioned; it was used until 1731; in it were buried Mary Starbuck, 1717, and Na- thaniel, her husband, 1719, and Stephen Hussey, 1718. After 1730 a new ground was opened at the corner of what are now Main and Saratoga streets. The Pros- pect Hill Cemetery was first used in 1811. The Cath- olic cemetery has been used about a quarter of a cen- tury. There are other old burial places in several localities. In one of these at the southern limit of the town is the stone which bears the oft-quoted epitaph to the memory of Huldah, wife of Benjamin Snow. "Died Jan. 29, 1855, aged 62. However dear She was not laid here Some private grief was her disease Laid to the North her friends to please." Many efforts have been made to elucidate these lines, but it is better that they tell their own story with unconscious humor and pathos. 106 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. Historical Notes. SEMAPHORES. During the Revoutionary War the windmills on the island were used as semaphores to signal to Nantucket vessels, and warn them of danger. The vanes were set according to a prearranged code, of which the British were ignorant. About the year 1838 a sempahore was erected on the North cliff for signalling vessels. It consisted of a high pole, with three flat slabs or arms projecting from it, these being pivoted at one end to the pole, and worked by chains which were manipulated by the operator in a small house at the foot of the pole. This instrument was used several years. Similar ap- paratus were erected at Tuckernuck, Martha's Vine- yard and on the mainland, each of them being visible from the next one in clear weather with a good glass. SPERM CANDLE-MAKING. The art was for some time kept a secret by the few who practised it on the mainland. In 1772 a Nan- tucket man obtained the desired knowledge, and cs- tablished himself in the business. He became wealthy and others took it up and prospered. It was after- wards carried on largely on the island. JETTIES. Congress was petitioned in 1878 for an appropria- tion to improve Nantucket harbor. In 1879 Gen. G. K. Warren made a survey of the harbor, and reported in SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 107 favor of the construction of jetties, one from the north shore, the other from Coatue. In June, 1880, an appropriation of $50,000 was secured for beginning the work. A FAMOUS SEA-FIGHT. On Oct. 10, 1814, the American privateer "Prince of Neufchatel," with the English ship "Douglass,” her prize, was chased by the British frigate "Endy- mion" to a point off Tom Never's Head, antucket. The "Endymion" sent out five boats, containing 140 armed men, to capture the American. The crew of the privateer made such a stubborn resistance that, after a fight of thirty-five minutes, in which the enemy lost the commander of the party and 120 in killed, wounded and prisoners, and three boats, the attempt to capture the privateer was abandoned. The latter lost five of her crew, including the pilot, Charles J. Hilburn, of Nantucket. THE TEA SHIPS. In 1772 the ships "Dartmouth," "Eleanor" and "Beaver" cleared from Nantucket with cargoes of oil for London. After discharging there they were char- tered to bring cargoes of tea to Boston. This was the famous tea which was thrown overboard by the Americans on its arrival in Boston harbor. The "Dart- mouth" and "Beaver" were owned in Nantucket; the captain of the "Beaver" was Hezekiah Coffin. The three ships afterwards returned to Nantucket. FIRST AND LAST. In 1765 the ship "Neptune" was built for William Rotch. (Nathan Coffin, master.) She was the first ship owned at Nantucket. In 1870, May 30, the barque 108 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. "Amy," Capt. Joseph Winslow, with 1350 barrels sperm oil, arrived, and June 14, same year, brig “Eu- nice H. Adams," Capt. Zenas M. Coleman. These were the last whalers to arrive at Nantucket. MUTINY ON SHIP " GLOBE." Ship "Globe," Capt. Thomas Worth, sailed in 1822 for a whaling voyage. During 1823 the crew mutinied, killing Capt. Worth, and three officers. Ship returned to Nantucket, Nov. 14, 1824. LOSS OF THE "JOSEPH STARBUCK." This new ship was towed out by steamer "Tele- graph" in November, 1842. It was intended to tow her to Edgartown to be fitted for a whaling voyage. Soon after crossing the bar, a strong head wind sprang up, and the steamer was compelled to leave the ship. The latter parted her cables and drifted back on the bar. The next morning she was found to be full of water, on her beam ends, with a heavy sea breaking over her. The "Massachusetts" put out to her, and a large surf boat was launched from the steamer, and after a hard struggle, her officers and crew of thirty seamen, together with five ladies (rel- atives of the officers, accompanying their friends to Edgartown) were rescued. The ship became a total wreck. THE BANNER SHIP. The "Bedford" of Nantucket, Capt. William Mooers was the first ship to show the American flag in an English port after the revolution, (London, Feb. 3, 1783.) She returned to Nantucket May 3rd, of the same year. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. REUNIONS. 109 In 1865 the High School Alumni Association was organized at Nantucket, and a reunion was held. Others occurred in 1866 and 1869. A reunion of the Coffin family was held in 1881. CENTENNIAL. In 1895 an elaborate celebration was held on the anniversary of changing the name of the town from Sherburne to Nantucket, also the bi-centennial of the incorporation of the county. This was the most suc- cessful celebration of an anniversary ever held on the island. TUCKERNUCK. This island was deeded by Thomas Mayhew in 1659 to "Tristram Coffin, Sr., Peter Coffin, Tristram Coffin, Jr., and James Coffin, to them, and their Heyres forever, for and in consideration of ye just Sum of six Pounds in Hand paid." The same year Tristram Coffin, Sr., bought of Sachem Potconet his rights in the island. A number of families still live on the island, most of whom are proprietors. It is also a favorite resort for many visitors. SHIPS BUILT AT NANTUCKET. The ship "Rose" is said to have been built at Nan- tucket in 1810. The "Charles Carroll" was built in 1832; the "Lexington" and the "Nantucket" in 1836, and the "Joseph Starbuck" in 1838. A large schooner was afterwards built. 110 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. NANTUCK) TOWN CRIERS. The earliest crier of which there is record was probably the one, who, before the time of newspapers, made announcements like the following: "Twelve o'clock and all is well; Jabez Arey has beans to sell! It is probable that the town was never long with- out a crier. *** One of these, William D. Clark, fol- lowed his profession (not to speak of other labors) con- tinuously for more than forty years. In 1903 a severe illness incapacitated him for further service. He is still to be seen on the street (1906), a pathetic figure to all who remember his former energy and industry. Alvin C. Hull has for a number of years officiated as town crier, and still follows the profession acceptably. Nantucket could hardly get along without a town crier. This official is, however, self-appointe¹. THE "DAUPHIN." This remarkable wax figure of an infant is on ex- hibition at the Historical rooms. It was brought from Paris in 1786 by Capt. Jonathan Coffin, who stated that he purchased it at a nunnery in that city. It was claimed to be a portrait, modelled from life, of Louis Charles, infant son of Louis XVI. and Marie Antoin- ette (at that time about one year old). The modelling of this figure is exceptionally fine, and must have been the work of a master. The Water Works. Owing to the foresight and energy of one of the sons of Nantucket, Moses Joy, Jr., the town has had a public water supply for over twenty years. While SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 111 still a boy in the High School, he conceived the pro- ject, his mind straying from his Latin lessons out over the hills to the "Western Washing Pond," a beau- tiful sheet of water, two miles from town. A few years later he proceeded to realize his dreams, and, in the face of great financial difficulties, set about the preliminary work. His enterprise was regarded with skepticism and open ridicule by the majority of his townsmen. The wells of their grandfathers were good enough for them. Then, how was he going to make it run up hill? The scheme was sure to result in failure, etc., etc. He commenced work in 1878, building a small pumping station, an iron reservoir, and a line of pipe into the town, and in April, 1879, the water was turned on. He struggled along with the enterprise, the num- ber of consumers increasing slowly. In 1880 he had the Wannacomet Water Co. incorporated, turning over his property, the water works, to it. He held the greater part of the capital stock, and was the President and Treasurer until 1882, when he sold his interest to R. Gardner Chase, Charles H. Robinson, William F. Codd and others. They have managed the property since, except that Mr. Chase, who was Presi- dent, retired in 1898, and was succeeded in office by Mr. David Folger. The capacity of the works has been steadily en- larged to meet the demands of increasing business. Its pipe lines now cover more than two-thirds of the town, including the North Cliff section and Brant Point. In 1900-1901 a second pumping station was built and a second line of pipe laid to the town, thus making it reasonably sure that the water supply will not be 112 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. crippled by any accident. There are more than fifty- five hydrants in the town for the use of the fire de- partment. The supply of water varies from 60,000 gallons in winter to 300,000 gallons in the summer. The Wannacomet Pond, with its clean water-shed (practically all owned by the water company), its pumping stations with the different kinds of pumping engines, is well worth inspection, and visitors are al- ways welcome. No account of the water works would be complete without special mention of Mr. William F. Codd, who has been identified with the enterprise from its beginnings. A conscientious and efficient practical engineer, his services as superintendent are invaluable, not only to the water company, but to the whole community, Lighthouses. There are four lighthouses on Nantucket Island, and one on Great Point, the northern extremity of Coatue Island. Of these the first in importance is on Sankaty Head, a cliff about 100 feet high on the east side of Nantucket, one mile from Sconset. This lighthouse is a round tower built of bricks and stone, the top being of iron. The whole structure is about 75 feet high. The light is a "Fresnal," of the second order, producing a fixed white light of 50 seconds duration, varied by flashes of 10 seconds' duration each minute. The light, when flashing, is visible at a distance of about 23 miles at sea. It was lighted for the first time February 2d, 1850. Copyright, 1897, by H. S. Wyer. SANKOTY HEAD. IND OF MICH SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 113 BRANT POINT. On this point, at the harbor entrance, was erected in 1746 the first beacon for vessels ever built in the United States. It was for some time maintained by private citizens, was then ceded to the town, and in 1791 passed under control of the U. S. Government. The first lighthouse was destroyed by fire in 1759 and the second was blown down in a gale in 1774. A third was burnt in the fall of 1783. In 1856 a lighthouse was built of brick and stone, with a fixed white light of the fourth order. This light was maintained until 1900, when it was discontinued, and a smaller (wood- en) tower built on the beach at low water mark. This change was made necessary by the construction of the jetties, which threw the old light out of range for incoming vessels. GREAT POINT. On the Ewer map this point shows as a part of Nantucket island, but since the opening was made by the sea in 1896, Coatue and its outstretched arm, Great Point, have formed an independent island. On the end of this point a wooden lighthouse was built in 1784. This was burned in 1816, and the present stone tower was built. It is a fixed white light of the third order. CLIFF OR "BUG" LIGHTS. On the north beach, under the cliff, are two small wooden structures of pyramidal shape. On these are lights of the reflecting order, one white, the other red. They were established in 1838, and refitted in 1856. $ 114 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. The Life-Saving Service. RY REUBEN C. SMALL. If the visitor has any curiosity regarding the United States Life Saving Service, its stations and methods, Nantucket affords an opportunity to exam- ine them at leisure, for there are four stations on itș shores, two of which are within easy reach. : The Surfside station, the oldest one, was built and manned in 1874. It is directly across the island, southward from the town, a distance of about three miles. Great Neck station is at the southwest shore of the island, and is reached by a six-mile drive over the commons. The remaining two, Muskeget and Coskata, can be reached only by boat, although either makes a good excursion with favorable weather con- ditions. One by one, since the introduction of the present system in November, 1871, these stations have been built, with a view to completing the chain along the Atlantic coast. At present every shore which is likely to be dangerous to navigation is patrolled by a system embracing 270 stations, divided into 12 districts, at an annual cost which reached in 1900 over one and one-half millions. The salaries of keepers and patrol- men on the Nantucket stations amount to $20,500 an- nually, a snug sum to draw upon during the winter months, but not in excess of value received by way of security afforded the many coasters daily passing within signal distance, and knowing that help is at hand if needed. Each of the stations on our shores is manned by a keeper throughout the twelve months, six men from August 1st until June 1st of the following year, with SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 115 an "extra" man from December 1st to May 1st, and if a horse can be used for benefit of the service, one is supplied during the winter months. The distance of beach under care of patrolmen is three miles in each direction, and is covered constantly from sunset to sunrise by watches of two men each, dividing the time as on ship board, so that the hour and direction of patrol will change for each man every twenty-four hours. During the day time, if clear, a constant watch is maintained from the cupola of the building, and if the weather is thick the beach patrol is out as at night. Like most Government work where several men on an equal footing are employed, the work is laid down by the rules and regulations (the men be- ing designated by numbers) so that a man may know his routine duty weeks ahead. Visitors are always welcome at the stations, if reasonably disposed, and the first visit, supposing one is at all interested in the service, cannot fail to be interesting. Unfortunately for June and July excur- sionists, the keeper during those months does not re- main at the station continuously, and may not always be found, but during August one will always find a full crew to do the honors. The keeper is usually a veteran in the service, and often the men as well, but at stations where there is little in the way of wrecks and life saving, and the position is isolated, it is hard to keep the sort of men wanted contented at the salary paid. In some localities the men build cottages near by, and at some of the isolated stations on the coast I am told that the Government encourages the keeper having his family near by, providing suitable apart- ments. 116 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. There are the different models of boats to be seen, and explanations are given of the breeches buoy and life car, which are used when a line can be thrown to a vessel by the Lisle gun. You are shown the Coston lights, which are carried by the men at night, the signal code, and many interesting devices to facilitate the working of the system. The men will not tell you interesting stories of their own work, but you may get them to tell what the crew of another station has done; and you may be sure that they are all ready should occasion arise to meet apparent and hidden danger, one or both of which are always encountered when battling with the elements. That this is a life of danger is proven by the fatalities that often occur through meeting an unlucky sea, by a stoven boat, or by some accident to the gear when apparently in little danger. Probably no better illustration of a crew going forward to almost forlorn hope with success can be mentioned than the oft-told story of our Coskata crew on January 20th, 1892. Starting without the usual incentive to life savers, that inspiration given by see- ing human life in danger, with only a report from San- katy of a flash light seen in the night, away out among the "rips," this crew went 12 miles before the wind from their station to the Rose and Crown Shoal, tak- ing seven men from an English vessel (which went to pieces in less than an hour afterwards) then bat- tled for 14 lives nearly 24 hours before reaching the shore. The story of that day and night is recorded as one of the bravest feats of the service. Is it any wonder that coasters now pass Nantucket Shoals with little dread, knowing that four crews await only an oppor- SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 117 tunity to emulate the example of Keeper Walter Chase and crew? The success that crowned that work unfortunately does not attend the utmost exertions of some crews with lives almost within reach, for there are cases where the vessel is just out of gun shot, and it is im- possible to launch a boat before the vessel breaks up. The station, with its brave men and improved appar- atus, is then powerless. One of the saddest wrecks that have come within the jurisdiction of our stations was that of the “T. B. Witherspoon," a cocoa-laden schooner, stranded near Surfside January 10th, 1886. This craft came near enough for the station crew to shoot a line over her, which was twice done, but the crew on the vessel failed to co-operate with the crew of the station, and nothing could be done with the gear. Many people, gathered from town during the day, were sorrowful spectators to the loss of life that followed after the unsuccessful attempts to launch a boat. The number of vessels receiving assistance throughout the service increases annually, as do the number of lives and amount of property saved. Dur- ing the fiscal year ending in 1900, property valued at seven and one-quarter millions was recovered from nine and one-half millions imperilled, while only 48 lives were lost and 2607 rescued. The business of wrecking along the coast was profitable years ago before the advent of telegraph, tugboats and life saving service. By wrecking is meant wrecking, not life saving. As long as lives were in danger, little thought was given to spoils, but when it came to the question of saving the vessel and cargo, each did his best to save the whole outfit (for 118 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET, himself) and many amusing anecdotes are recited of those days. Under this article space permits mention of a few remarkable wrecks. In cases which are attended with loss of life or extreme suffering before rescue the circumstances remain in memory for some time. The improvement in equipments of the large com- merce carriers has kept pace with that of the life saving service, thus making fatal disasters compara- tively rare. The large, well equipped schooners of to-day with their steam gear for taking anchors, hoist- ing sails, etc., are as near perfect as the work they follow permits. The complete and perfect charting of shoals and channels, as well as the good work of the Weather Bureau, also guide and keep many ves- sels from trouble. Recently during threatening weather a large up-to- date schooner, anchoring near one of our outside light- ships, was warned that the "anchorage was unsafe." The master of the schooner questioned of the light- ship crew, "Are you not anchored?" A heavy gale came up; the lightship broke from her anchorage, but the schooner held on, thanks to her improved gear; but occasionally thick weather, darkness and sudden storms get the best of them. For many years the "Newton" and the "Haynes" were spoken of as the most appalling and distressing wrecks occurring on Nantucket during the last half century. From neither vessel was there a survivor, nor was anything known of a disaster until after the sea had completed its sad havoc. The "Haynes," with a cargo from St. Domingo, was found off the southwest of Surfside Dec. 24, 1865, in good condition and recently abandoned, as evi- SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 119 denced by a good fire in the cabin stove. From find- ing soon after a boat and oars and the body of a man on the beach, it was thought the vessel struck on a shoal and the crew, in over haste, started for the shore. The next morning it was learned that in the night, during a southeast gale, the "Newton," an eight hun- dred ton iron ship, from New York for Hamburg, Ger- many, with an assorted cargo, including five thousand barrels of kerosene oil, had struck near Madeque- cham. At first discovery the beach was strewn with wreckage several miles. From the two vessels four- teen bodies came ashore, out of nearly thirty compris- ing the crews. In late years, excepting the wreck of the “T. B. Witherspoon," most of the fatalities have come from vessels on the rips and shoals that surround the island. The ship "Asia," schooner "St. Elmo" and schoon- er "Eliza" have been lost off the east side since Feb- ruary, 1898, with thirty-four lives; of these three vessels nothing was known until the survivors' story was told. The "Asia,” a full rigged ship of 1350 tons, with one hundred thousand dollars' worth of hemp, from Manilla to Boston, probably struck wide off Sankaty on the night of Fẹb. 20, 1898, during a south- east storm. The cargo being somewhat buoyant, the ship pounded over several of the "Rips," filling with water and becoming unmanageable, finally striking and breaking up on Great Round Shoal before day- light. There were twenty-one persons on board, in- cluding the captain, his wife and young daughter. Three of the sailors only were saved the following day by clinging to a raft. 120 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. April 2, 1898, a vessel's mast was descried about 12 miles off Sankaty. The life boat returned with only the mate of the "St. Elmo"; the captain, his wife and three men were lost soon after the vessel had capsized two days before near Pollock Rip; she had drifted to the Rose and Crown Shoal, and there sank. Fishing schooner "Eliza," with a crew of 14 men bound out to the fishing grounds on a bright moon- light night, April 18, 1899, struck on about the same place where the "St. Elmo" sank. Three of the men launched a dory, not intending to leave, but in some way were separated from the vessel and landed at Siasconset the next day. The balance of the crew thought they were safer on the vessel than in dories and probably waited too long before trying to get away, as they were never heard from. The Rose and Crown Shoal is where the Coskata crew made the gallant rescue from schooner "H. P. Kirkham," for which they were awarded medals of honor. A different story is that of the bark "Mentor," loaded with sugar, in good condition and abandoned by her crew; she was picked up April 23, 1893, twelve miles off South Shore by a Nantucket crew of sixteen men, who carried her to Boston, and received $14,- 500 for their work. The crew of the vessel were all saved in their own boats. Mention has been made of lives lost on the schooner “T. B. Witherspoon" Jan. 10, 1886. She had a crew of seven men and the mate's wife and child were also on board, the latter a boy of five years. Of these nine but two were saved, the mate and one sea- man; this after an all day's fight by the Surfside SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 121 crew, during which five shot lines were landed within reach of the sailors. The vessel was cocoa laden, and had been scudding two days, with sails furled, before an easterly and southerly gale. She was discovered soon after striking, but so heavy was the surf that nothing could be done with the boats; the beach ap- paratus was in use all day, but without the assistance on board the vessel necessary to its successful oper- ation until late in the afternoon. The official who in- vestigated this sad affair, as is necessary where loss of life attends operation of the Life Saving Service, concluded his report by saying: "No better work under the circumstances could have been done than Veeder and his crew did that memorable day; and when it is related that a vessel was wrecked near Surfside station and seven out of nine of her crew perished, it will also be told that the life saving crew did their whole duty." The most recent rescue from the treacherous rips and shoals that abound off the south and east of the island fell to Capt. Clisby and crew of the Surfside station on March 20th, 1902. The lumber-laden schooner "Flyaway," entering Nantucket Sound from the eastward during the night of March 18th, was struck and thrown down by a northerly gale near the Handkerchief Shoal, about 30 miles from Surfside, and off the opposite shore of the island. The mast and deck-load shortly after clearing from the vessel, she righted, and, full of water, a complete wreck, with one man missing, drifted out of the sound to the eastward of the island. The remainder of the night and next day, with freezing temperature, westerly gale and snow storm 122 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. of blizzard proportions, she drifted, with five men clinging to the top of her cabin, without shelter, water or food. Shortly before night on the 19th, the wind backed into the eastward and changed their drift, which brought them the next morning near the "Old Man Rip" off Tom Never's Head. About that time the vessel's anchors, which had been dragging for some time, held on, and the weather clearing, she was seen from Siasconset. The Surfside crew were at once notified, and by five hours' work with their surf boat, succeeded in landing the five men. So ex- hausted by exposure, want of food and water were the sailors that they could have held out but a few hours longer. Agriculture and Horticulture.* It is not uncommon with those who know Nan- tucket only by hearsay to think of it as a barren sand- heap, on which nothing grows except beach-grass and other plants that flourish in sand. This is, of course, very far from the truth. In fact, well nigh every vegetable that is raised elsewhere in New England has been produced on the island within recent years, the quality and flavor being generally of the best. Beans, peas, potatoes, sweet corn, pumpkins, beets, turnips, parsnips, cucumbers, celery, lettuce; all of these are easily raised in any house-garden, if proper fertilizers are applied; and large crops of all of them can be raised on many of the island farms, provided they are favored with frequent rains or facilities for irrigation. The liability to drouths has compelled many farmers to provide themselves with driven wells and windmills. But the most serious obstacle to farming in these days is the scarcity of laborers. *See appendix 7. †See appendix 8. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 123 One sad result of the development of a summer re- sort has been to attract many young men, who for- merly devoted themselves to cultivating the soil, to the easier task of driving public carriages. It has often been said that the farm lands have been "worn out;” this is only partially true. Given an energetic farmer and a favoring season, many of these "worn out" farms can be made to yield paying crops. There is no doubt that, in the hands of a colony of thrifty Germans, Swedes or other agricultural people, a large portion of the island could be made to yield profitable crops. Rye, oats, barley and wheat all yield well here when properly cultivated; yet, in spite of this, more than nine-tenths of the considerable amount of grains used here are imported from the main land. A few enterprising farmers (one may al- most count them on his fingers) still follow the hon- orable-and in many cases, lucrative—calling. In Polpis, Quaise, 'Sconset, and in the south and west sections of the island, excellent crops are still raised. Sheep raising, which was for many years a profitable business for farmers, is now practically extinct. Beef cattle, also, were formerly raised here, but Chicago beef is now indispensable. Of small fruits, while few efforts are made towards raising large crops, it may confidently be said that as fine strawberries are raised here as in any part of the country. Blackberries, also, respond well to cul- tivation, as would other small fruits. In sheltered places, excellent pears can be raised, when trees re- ceive proper attention. Certain varieties of apples, quinces, and even peaches, produce good fruit where conditions are favorable; but, as a rule, fruit trees are left uncared for, with the natural result. As Nan- 124 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. tucket increases in popularity it is highly probable that vigorous efforts will be made to convert deserted farms and waste places of the island into profitable market gardens. Visitors who are interested in agri- culture should not fail to inspect the exhibit of vege- tables and fruits at the annual fair in August, though, unfortunately, the date is too early to show many farm products at their best. It is the belief of the present writer that there will be a considerable re- vival in farming on Nantucket in the near future. Bird Life. BY WILLIAM F. MACY. Without attempting any scientific treatise on the ornithology of Nantucket, a few of the more distinc- tive characteristics of the island's feathered life may be of interest to the student or bird lover. What most impresses the observer at first is the comparative scarcity of most of the smaller tree- inhabiting song birds of bright-colored plumage, such as the warblers, finches, vireos, etc. The distance from the adjacent mainland where such birds are to common-rendering sustained flight necessary reach us-and the absence of forest growth of any size or extent, doubtless account for such conditions. A few birds of this class nest in the elms and fruit trees in the town, or in the swamps around the ponds, but most of our smaller birds are of the dull-plumaged varieties, inhabiting the fields and open places. Most of the sparrows are common, especially the field and marsh sparrows, while the song, Savanna and vesper sparrows are met with as frequently, perhaps, as else- where in this latitude. Swallows are abundant in at SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 125 least three varieties; the barn swallow, purple mar- ten and the bank swallow-vast numbers of the lat- ter breeding in the sand-cliffs along the shores of the island. A few chimney swifts are seen, and that gay- est of songsters, the bob-o-link, is quite common in the cultivated fields and meadows about the town in early summer. Of the next larger birds, the usual New England types-such as the robin, the brown thrush, the king- bird, meadow lark, crow blackbird, rusty blackbird and red wing, the kingfisher, the woodpecker, etc., seem to find favorable food and breeding places, and are common in their seasons. Jays, shrikes, cuckoos and tanagers are but rare visitors. The spotted sand-piper, the piping plover, and the upland plover all breed on the island and are fairly abundant. Of the large birds-the omnipresent and omniv- orous crow is as much of a nuisance and as cordially hated as elsewhere. Several varieties of hawks and owls breed in our swamps, and are a common sight on the moors. The black duck still breeds here in considerable numbers, and is the only one of the water fowl which remains with us throughout the year. Herons are one of our most common birds. The black-crowned night heron in great numbers still re- sorts annually to a few large heronries in the most inaccessible parts of the swamps, and the bittern also rears its young on the island. The great blue heron and its smaller green cousin are occasional visitors during the migrations. As might be expected, the most conspicuous fea- ture in our bird life is the sea birds. Thousands of pairs of terns still repair late in the Spring of each 126 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. year to the island of Muskeget to breed, and a visit to this island about the second week in June is well worth while. The Wilson's, Arctic, roseate and least terns, and the blackhead or laughing gull, in countless numbers, deposit their eggs on the hot sand, and on the approach of an intruder rise in a perfect cloud, filling the air with their harsh cries, while fresh laid eggs, newly hatched chicks, and half-grown birds are all about under foot. It is a sight which can now be seen in but one or two places on the north coast, and once seen can never be forgotten. Among the fisher- men, the terns all go by the general name of “mack- erel gull." As they leave us in the autumn, the great gray gulls, "herring gulls" and "black-backs” begin to arrive, and remain till Spring, so there is an un- broken succession of seabird life throughout the year. The game birds and wild fowl which are common here are cnumerated under the heading of "Fishing and Shooting." Fishing and Shooting. BY WILLIAM F. MACY. To the disciple of Isaac Walton, Nantucket offers unusual attractions. Of course blue-fishing is the sport par excellence. A day's bluefishing at Great Point rip is an experience no visitor with a taste pis- catorial should miss. He may find the fish or he may not. If he does it is lively work and good sport while it lasts. If he doesn't, the sail to and from the Point and up and down the rips in one of the big cat-boats is well worth what it costs to those who love the water and are immune from the dreaded mal de mer. Since the break in the "Haulover" at the head of the harbor, SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 127 a choice of routes to the Point is now offered, and the experienced skipper usually goes out one way and re- turns the other, varying his course according as wind and tide may serve. Bluefishing from the beach, by the heave and haul method across the breakers, is an interesting sport when the fish are in shore. Striped bass, sea bass, squeteague and bonita are all fairly abundant during the summer, and may be caught at the right times and places. Scup, flounders, plaice, perch, tautog and the usual salt water fish of a sandy coast are all plentiful, and cod, haddock, hake and pollock are caught in large quantities on the shoals off 'Sconset and Surfside in the spring and fall, furnishing a considerable source of revenue to the islanders. A sharking trip off Wauwinet is a popular amuse- ment to many who have a liking for big game, though it can scarcely be considered sport. Of fresh water fish, either the white or silver perch, or the yellow, banded variety, known locally as the "powwow," are found in most of the larger ponds, notably the Hummock, Long, Miacomet and Sesach- acha. A drive to Quidnet, where boats and gear may be had for a day's white perch fishing on 'Sachacha Pond, is always a popular outing, and several hundred fish are often taken in a day by a party of two or three. Pickerel are found in Maxcy's and Tom Never's Pond, and black bass have been propagated with some success at Wannacomet. Then there are eels, clams, quahaugs and lobsters, all growing less year by year, and oysters have re- cently been bedded by private enterprise at Polpis 128 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. harbor, which appear to be thriving, and are consid- ered of very superior flavor, though former attempts in the same line in our waters have not met with much encouragement. The scallop fishery has become an important in- dustry with the islanders during the past decade. As many as 800 gallons have been shipped in a single day, and the average winter catch ranges from one to two thousand gallons per week. Prices have been as high as $1.50 to $2.00 per gallon and even higher at times during the past few years. The taking of these bivalves is prohibited by statute between April and October. Less encouragement can be offered to devotees of the gun. The annual flight of plover which, a genera- tion ago, brought hundreds of sportsmen to the island late in August each year, is now a thing of the past. Enormous bags of "greenheads" (golden plover) and "dough-birds" (eskimo curlew) were secured in those days, but for some reason we cannot understand these birds seem to have changed the course of their south- ern migrations, and now pass over the sea far to the eastward of the island. Occasionally a few birds are seen, but they rarely stop even in small numbers. Of the common shore birds, such as the sand pipers, yellow-legs, black-breast plover or beetlehead, turn- stone or chicken plover (known locally as the "crad- dock"), red-breast snipe, brown backs, grass birds, curew, willet, etc., a few are still bagged in the sea- son, but, as elsewhere, they are getting scarcer year by year. An occasional flight of English snipe furnishes a days' good sport on the marshes late in the fall, and to the true sportsman, with untiring energy and per- Gill Eng. Co. MY Copyright, 1897 by H. S. Wyer. BATHING AT THE JETTY. UNIV OF MICH SEAGIRT NANTUCKET. 129 severance, the upland plover, which still frequent the high pastures and moors in some parts of the island, offer exceptional inducements. Of the winter shooting, a somewhat better report may be given. Black duck are still fairly plentiful, and with wild geese and brant in their seasons, afford good sport for the nimrod possessing the skill and pa- tience necessary to outwit and secure these wary birds. Redheads and broad bills are among the choice aquatic fowl which still pass the more open winters with us. Coots, sheldrake, whistlers, eider duck, widgeon, old squaws, dippers, butterballs, bluebills, loons and other common seafowl, in countless numbers and vari- ety, remain in our waters from October to April, and may be bagged by any tyro almost without limit. Of brush or field shooting there is nothing worth mentioning. Several attempts have been made to in- troduce quail, but the cover is hardly sufficient, and a severe winter usually kills off most of the coveys. A few are still to be found, but they are protected by special statute. To those who find sport in killing rabbits, there is ample opportunity on Nantucket during the open sea- son for such game. A gentleman whose intentions must have been superior to his judgment introduced the cottontail here about 1890. They have thrived all too well, and are a source of annoyance to the farmers. With two or three good hounds cottontails may be started most anywhere on the island, and parties of visiting sportsmen often bag a hundred or more as the result of a few days' shooting. & 130 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. Boat Sailing. BY BENJAMIN SHARP. It has been said that it always blows at Nantucket. Whether this be true or not, there are very few days when there is no wind for sailing. And even if it blows hard, as it can in June and July, giving us the "smoky sou'wester," the cat-boats of Nantucket are perfectly capable to take their parties to most any point desired. A more capable fleet of small boats does not exist on our coast, and the skippers are pro- verbial for their care, and for their skill in manag- ing them. During the summer months the waters about Nan- tucket are as safe as any on our coast. The low land of the island saves us from those heavy squalls that are so common and dangerous on high and mountain- ous shores. Some of the regular fishermen run out as far as twenty miles to the eastward of Wauwinet, and even stay over night at this distance from land in order to bring in a good fare of cod fish. In the Sound there is plenty of water, and experi- ence only is needed in running the Great Point rip for blue fish or in navigating the intricate channels of the upper harbor. One of the pleasantest sails about the island is to go to Great Point, and if blue fish be there, run the rips for a while, and then run down the eastern shore of the Point, which makes a good lee, during the prevailing southwest winds of summer (the anti-trade wind), and come in at the "new opening," stopping at Wauwinet, and then home, down the beautiful inland harbor. Other cruises to Tuckernuck and Muskeget can be taken, but the stranger is advised to take some Copyright, 1897 by H. S. Wyer. THE WHITE FLEET. Gill Eng Co. My INS OF SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 131 plot to the manner born, in order to get over the shifting shoals about these islands. The same advice can be given to those sailing the upper harbor, for although some buoys are placed in the shoalest parts, one had better learn the bottom before he ventures alone. It is not dangerous navigation at all, but one does not like to be on a shoal all day, and watch other boats pass him in the deeper water. > Good fishing can be had just back of the bar, where a morning or afternoon can be spent in getting a good fare of scup. This still fishing is good sport. There are several good spots to anchor. Back of the bar, along the north shore to "Long Hill," and also in the deep water under Great Point. In June and early July there is good sport in "drifting" for plaice fish in the new opening. This is done by running out of the opening when the tide is setting in, heaving to, and then drifting in through the opening, letting the baited lines trail on the bottom. When in, sail out again, and repeat the operation. From twenty to eighty good fish can be caught this way in a comparatively short time. This may be varied by running a mile or so out from the land, anchoring and down lines for sharks. Plaice may also be caught on the shoal waters of the bar, and sharks rarely es- cape the hook when one fishes inside the pitch of Great Point. The cosmopolitan but wandering blue fish is not as plenty now about the island as one would wish, yet the sport is by no means one of the past, and perhaps no better day can be spent than with a good breeze to run down to the Point, run the shore and the rips, and only come home when your hands are too sore to haul in any more blue fish. 132 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. Bathing. The public bathing grounds are along North beach, near the jetty. In 1903 an act was passed by the Legislature providing for the setting apart of the land including the North Bathing beach, as a public park, the State to loan the price for its purchase to the town. After purchasing the land at public sale, the town leased it to Mr. Clifford Folger, who at once erected a com- modious bathing pavilion. The great improvement in facilities for bathing has already made the north beach a popular resort. The water on the north beaches in August ranges from 70 degrees to 74 de- grees in temperature. The beaches most available for surf bathing are at 'Sconset, where, every day during the summer months, many of the villagers en- joy this exciting and invigorating sport. At Wau- winet, also, surf bathing is indulged in by dwellers in that hamlet, and in rough weather the harbor shore offers a pleasant alternative. To invalids and others who prefer their salt water baths artificially heated, Miss Hayden's well-equipped and cleanly bathing rooms offer strong attractions. Bicycling. There is an ample field for bicycle riding on the island. The macadam road, which extends from the town to 'Sconset village, seven and a half miles, of- fers easy riding. There are good bicycle paths to nearly every part of the island. One of these starts from the Surfside road and extends to the life-saving station, and eastward along the bluff to the hotel. Another connects the Madaket and Cliff roads, pass- Gill Eng. Co. My EMILY FISHING BOATS AT THE DOCK n M SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 133 · ing the golf links. A fifth starts from the end of the Madaket road, and runs westward, crossing the Long Pond "gut," and terminating at Great Neck life-saving station. One extends from the Oliver Backus farm at Polpis to Wauwinet; and another from 'Sconset vil- lage to the 'Sconset golf links. There is a repair shop in Main street, where wheels may be purchased or hired. The Golf Links. The Nantucket golf links are situated on the north cliff, about one mile beyond the Sea Cliff Inn. They are the private property of Mr. Sidney Chase of Boston. Over one hundred acres of gently undulating land are included in the tract devoted to the purposes of the game, and, as in the best Scotch links, neither trees nor stones interferc with the pastime. The course is a full one of eighteen holes, and, as newly laid out, is nearly six thousand yards in extent. The turf for the most part is excel- lent. So far as possible the contour of the land has been preserved in its natural state, and unsightly ar- tificial bunkers and hazards have been avoided. The golf house was built in 1901. It provides wide piazzas, with extensive views, commodious and con- venient lockers, and is equipped throughout with mod- ern plumbing. While the links are a private enter- prise, conducted, under restrictions, in the interests of a limited number of subscribers, applications from visitors (who come properly introduced) will be duly considered, and, when possible, privileges will be ex- tended to them. Applications may be made, during the scason, to the custodian at the golf house. 134 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. As a Field for Artists. As no one writer can ever do full justice to Nan- tucket's history and characteristics, so also no one artist, however talented, can be expected to fitly in- terpret all of the great variety of subjects to be found here. To the painter who finds in woods and streams his favorite subjects, the island offers little attrac- tion, except perhaps as a place for rest. There are visitors who find the island, with its broad stretches of treeless moorland (except for groves of dwarf pines and scrub oaks) monotonous and lonely. But to others, whose eyes are keenly sensitive to the ever varying glories of color in hill and valley, in placid harbor and surf beaten shores, there can be no monotony, quite the reverse, when one attempts to portray these subjects on canvas. If there is one glory that transcends all others in nature hereabouts, it is surely to be found in the sublime sunsets and afterglows, when the transitions of color from zenith to horizon are at once an inspira- tion and a despair to the artist. It is to be regretted that, in a town possessing the unique character of Nantucket, the necessary process which has restored so many of the old mansions from their former dilapidated and oft untenable condition to one of neatness and comfort, should at the same time have destroyed much of their original charac- ter and picturesqueness. But this is the inevitable penalty in the development of a summer resort. There are still in the town many of the old houses in various stages of decay, which, with their weather- beaten gables and rambling "porches," offer tempting SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 135 material to those who affect this class of subjects. Along the water front are many of the old shops and warehouses, their gray forms reflected in the water. There are also fragments of old wharves, which, with the white-winged boats that glide in and out on a sum- mer day, lend themselves naturally to the artist's purpose. While the commons are attractive at all seasons to appreciative eyes, it is in the late autumn that they display a wealth of color not less brilliant than that found in wooded localities. The growth of scrub-oaks, berry-bushes and vines, which covers large portions of the island, then unite to form a gorgeous web of crimson and gold in ever varying combinations. Here and there, surrounded by fragrant swamp-weeds, a pond gleams in the sun- shine, and always from the higher ground one may catch glimpses of the changeful sea. In the past quarter century many well-known ar- tists have visited the island. Some have come as to a haven of rest from the city's tumult, or to com- plete works begun elsewhere. Others (the majority) came to paint such subjects as they found here. Of the long list of visiting artists Eastman John- son probably has a just claim to seniority. During the early years of his coming he engaged with enthu- siasm in the painting of characteristic scenes and portrait studies. His "Cranberry Pickers" (painted from life on the meadows near his residence) is a masterly work. "The Stage Coach," "The Husking-bee," "The Nan- tucket School of Philosophy," and many fine genres and portraits were painted in those days in rapid suc- cession, and are now valued features of permanent 136 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. collections in various cities. Several portraits from his master hand are owned in Nantucket. Two of these may be seen at the Historical rooms. Mr. W. N. Bartholomew, a veteran who claims the distinction of having furnished copy for the first drawing book published in America, and who was the first to inaugurate the teaching of art in the Bos- ton schools, has spent many seasons here, devoting much of his time to water-color painting and to the exquisite pencil sketches for which he is famous. Mr. H. Anthony Dyer has for years devoted his vigorous talent to painting the old streets and by- ways. The late George Inness spent a few weeks here, making a number of effective sketches in and about 'Sconset. Of the many artists who have visited the island within the quarter century, the following list is pre- sented. Eastman Johnson (summer resident). Wm. T. Richards. George W. Flagg (late resident). W. N. Bartholomew. George Inness. Will H. Low. Wm. S. Macy. Wm. F. Macy. Wm. H. Lippincott. Geo. H. McCord. H. Anthony Dyer. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 137 Stacy Tolman. E. M. Bicknell. George Holston. C. C. Cooper. W. Channing Cabot (resident). J. A. McDougall. B. V. Carpenter (summer resident). Marshall Jones. F. M. Bartlett. Walter Brown. Wm. F. Paskell. J. D. Hunting. Alex. H. Seaverns. Miss Annie Riddell (summer resident). Miss Elizabeth R. Coffin (summer resident). Miss Clara Wilson (summer resident). Miss Annie B. Folger (resident). H. B. Simmons. C. G. Davis. Miss Marianna Van Pelt. Miss Gertrude Smith. Miss Reid. Miss Marie Platt. The following artists are permanent residents: George G. Fish, Wendell Macy, Jas. W. Folger. Examples of the work of many of the above artists may be seen at Wyer's Art Store, Federal street. Nantucket in Literature. The literature of Nantucket, as compared with that of Plymouth, Salem, Concord, and other towns of the Old Colony, can hardly be considered as abund- ant or satisfying. The century of the Quaker do- 138 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. minion (the influence of which is even to this day a repressive force in the community) was not favorable to the development of a high order of literary pro- duction. A history of Nantucket, in one volume, by Obed Macy (1835), constituted for a long time our sole possession, and is still the most important. Though conscientiously compiled and valuable as far as it goes, this book is not satisfying for the reason that the author had access to only a small portion of the rich store of material which is now available to the historian. A History of the Whale-fishery, by Alexander Starbuck, published by the United States Government (1878), is important and authoritative. A comprehensive account of this industry at Nan- tucket, with a list of ships and other data, is included in this work. "Quaint Nantucket," by William Root Bliss (1896), which is based on the early records of the first settlers and those of the Friends' Meeting, is an important contribution to our literature. The author's conclusions in regard to Quakerism as an institution are, with some exceptions, fairly drawn. His attitude towards the Quakers, however (who, for a long time constituted a majority of the Nantucket people) is unnecessarily severe, being without sym- pathy. The same author's "September Days on Nan- tucket" (1902) is descriptive, reminiscent and slightly historical. "Maria Mitchell; Life, Letters and Journals, com- piled by Phoebe Mitchell Kendall (1896), is an inter- esting account of a remarkable woman. "Early Set- tlers of Nantucket," by Lydia S. Hinchman (1896), is a valuable compilation of genealogical data. "Miriam Coffin, or the Whale-fishermen," by James C. Hart (1834), is the only long novel depicting life in the old SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 139 whaling days of Nantucket. The story, notwithstand- its conspicuous faults, has the glamour of romance, and impresses the reader as a graphic and character- istic picture of old Nantucket life. "Trustum and his Grandchildren," by Harriet Worron (1881), is a medley of genealogy and anecdote, with sufficient lo- cal color and humor to interest Nantucketers. "An Island Plant," published first in the Atlantic Monthly Magazine, by Mary Catherine Lee, is one of the best of Nantucket stories, being exceptionally true to the island life and atmosphere. "A Quaker Girl of Nan- tucket," by the same author, though distinctly in- ferior to the shorter story, is not without merit. "Nantucket Scraps," by Jane G. Austin, is a humor- ous and somewhat imaginary account of her sojourn on the island. 'Sconset Cottage Life," by A. Judd Northrup, is a vivacious and well-written description of life at that village a quarter century ago; it is the best book on that subject yet written. "There She Blows; or The Log of the Arethusa," by Wm. Hussey Macy (1889), is a breezy story of life on a whaler. A competent critic said of it: "As a truthfu! and exhaustive account of whaling, it ranks with Dana's 'Two Years Before the Mast.' Many magazine articles and short stories relating to Nantucket have been published, some of which have considerable merit, but, as a rule, they seem to be deficient in truth to nature. Books of verse, relating to the island, have been published by Caroline Parker Hills, Anna Gardner, Louise S. Baker, Emily Shaw Forman and Charles H. Webb. The recently published Bulletins of the Nantucket Historical Association; namely, “Quakerism on Nan- 140 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. tucket since 1800," by Henry B. Worth; "Nantucket Lands and Land-owners," by the same author; "The Timothy White Papers," by Myron S. Dudley; are valuable contributions to the history of the island. Other valuable pamphlets are Nantucket's Phy- siography and Botany, by Sara Winthrop Smith; "Plants of Nantucket," by Maria L. Owen; "Nan- tucket Churches and Pastors," by Myron S. Dudley. A list of the more important books and pamphlets on Nantucket subjects is here subjoined: BOOKS OF HISTORY AND FICTION.* Letters from an American Farmer,* Hector St. John, London, 1782. Reprinted, New York, 1904. Miriam Coffin,* novel, 2 vols., James C. Hart, New York, 1834. There She Blows; or The Log of the Arethusa,* Wm. Hussey Macy, Boston, 1879. Reprinted 1899. Miriam Coffin,* reprinted, 1 vol., James C. Hart, San Francisco, 1872. History of Nantucket,* Obed Macy, Boston, 1835. History of Nantucket,* reprint Obed Macy, Mans- field, 1885. Papers Relating to the Island of Nantucket,* F. B. Hough, Albany, 1856. History of the Whale-fishery,* Alexander Star- buck, Waltham, 1878.» Nantucket Guide Book,* Edward K. Godfrey, Bos- ton, 1882. Genealogy of the Macy Family, S. J. Macy, New York, 1868. Six to One, Edward Bellamy, New York, 1878. Nantucket Scraps, Jane G. Austin, Boston, 1883. tAppendix 5. *Titles marked with asterisk known to be out of print. 2 SEA-GIRt nantuCKET. 141 A Quaker Girl of Nantucket, Mary Catherine Lee, Boston, 1889. An Island Plant (story), Mary Catherine Lee, Boston, 1896. Trustum and His Grandchildren, Harriet Worron, Yarmouthport, 1881. Life of Tristram Coffin, Allen Coffin, Nantucket, 1881. 1894. 1896. Quaker Idylls, Sarah M. H. Gardner, New York, Quaint Nantucket,* William Root Bliss, Boston, Quaint Nantucket, 2nd edition, William Root Bliss, Boston, 1897. Life of Maria Mitchell, Phebe Mitchell Kendall, Boston, 1896. Life of Adm'l Sir Isaac Coffin, C. E. Amory, Bos- ton, 1886. Early Settlers of Nantucket, Lydia S. Hinchman, Phila., 1896. Early Settlers of Nantucket, enlarged edition, Ly- dia S. Hinchman, Phila., 1901. Narrative of the Globe Mutiny,* W. Lay and C. M. Hussey, New London, 1828. Narrative of the Globe Mutiny, reprint, New York, 1901. The Heart of Siasconset, Phebe A. Hanaford, New Haven, 1890. 'Sconset Cottage Life,* A. Judd Northrup, New York, 1881. 'Sconset Cottage Life, reprint, Syracuse, 1901. Nantucket Picturesque and Historic, Herry S. Wyer, Nantucket, 1901. September Days on Nantucket, William Root Bliss, Boston, 1902. 142 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. Sea-girt Nantucket (handbook), Henry S. Wyer, Nantucket, 1902. (Reprinted, 1906.) PAMPHLETS. Narrative of the Robbery of the Nantucket Bank,* Albert Gardner and Wm. Coffin, 1816. Memoirs of Hon. Walter Folger, William Mitchell, Providence, 1855. Memoirs of Narcissa B. Coffin, 1897. Catalogue of Names of High School Pupils,* Nan- tucket, 1865. List of Wrecks Around Nantucket,* Arthur H. Gardner, Nantucket, 1877. List of Nantucket Whalers,* Nantucket, 1876. Loss of the Ship "Essex,"* R. B. Forbes, Cam- bridge, 1884. Tuckernuck,* E. V. Hallett, Nantucket, 1892. An Idyll from Nantucket,* edited by Robert Coll- yer, New York, 1888. Talks about Old Nantucket, Christopher C. Hus- sey, 1901. (Other pamphlets have been previously men- tioned.) BOOKS OF VERSE. Sea-weeds from the Shores of Nantucket, edited by Lucy C. Starbuck, Boston, 1853. Here and There in Verse,* Wm. Hussey Macy, Nantucket, 1887. 1881. Vagrom Verse, Charles Henry Webb, Boston, 1889. Harvest Gleanings, Anna Gardner, New York, Poems, Matthew Barney, Lynn, 1892. By the Sea, Louise S. Baker, reprint, illus. by A. H. Seaverns, 1893. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 143 A Nantucket Hermitage and Other Poems,* Caro- line Parker Hills, 1896. Wild Flower Sonnets,* Emily Shaw Forman, Bos- ton, 1895. Nantucket in Picture and Verse,* Henry S. Wyer, Nantucket, 1892. The Relic Auction, Henry S. Wyer, Nantucket, 1898. Poems of Nantucket* (selected), edited by H. S. Wyer, Nantucket, 1888. Nantucket's Flora. No description of Nantucket would be adequate without some mention of its beautiful and varied flora. At no time, from early spring to late Autumn, are its lovely moorlands without rare attractions. Each succeeding month brings its own peculiar wealth of wild blossoms. Every day, with its chang- ing effects of sunlight and shadow, reveals new and hidden beauties. The sandy uplands, ever fanned by salt sea breezes, and bathed in floods of warm, stimulating sunshine, bring forth, as the season advances, an ever varying succession of brilliant-hued flowers, whose effective- ness is greatly heightened by the grey-green lichen carpet beneath them. Who can describe the commons in May and June with their wealth of golden bloom, without an excess of enthusiasm? Surely no lover of Nature. In low green meadows broad seas of butter- cups, rippled by every passing breeze, present dazzling masses of color. Stoop to gather a clump of the golden Hudsonia, and lo, nothing remains in your hand but the gray-green stems; thus does this showy 144 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. plant protect itself from extermination. Would that some of the rarer species had learned the same lesson of self-preservation. As June advances, she seems to tire of her yellow raiment, and begins to adorn herself here and there with masses of pink. Is there another spot in the world where the wild rose flourishes as along Nan- tucket byways and hedges, or where its colors are so brilliant. For July's chief glories one must search in the marshy hollows, and among the borders of the ponds; the beautiful pink-purple orchid, the white azalea and the fascinating sun-dew, are then in their prime. On the uplands the huckleberry is ripening, the yel- low-flowered indigo blooming, and the silky gray Tephrosia is adorning itself with its rose and cream clusters of pea-shaped flowers. August strikes a deeper, richer note than its fore- runners; the graceful Gerardia, with its delicate pur- ple flowers balanced on slender stems, is found in full luxuriance on the commons at this season. The brilliant red lily glows against a background of dark green shrubery. The white clethera now circles the swamps and marshes, while the superb pink hibiscus modestly hides its beauty in the swamp thickets. The green stretches of the western salt marshes are cov- ered with the dancing, fairy-like forms of the marsh rosemary, or sea lavender. A few favored ponds are by this time outlined with the exquisite sabbatia gracilis. Alas, that this lovely flower should be threatened with utter exter- mination-for its beauty is a sore temptation to the unscrupulous flower-hunter! September brings in its train a splendid proces- SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 145 sion of golden-rod and asters-both in many varie- ties; the former in gorgeous plumes of dazzling color; the latter like living eyes that peer out from among the long grasses. But our limit of space forbids enumerating all of these children of an ever lavish Nature. It is re- served for those who love the flowers to seek them in their chosen haunts, and to learn their secrets as only lovers may. For such as these, the arbutus trails its prostrate stems, laden with fragrant blossoms, the heather hangs its purple bells, and the swamps bring forth marvellous creations of orchids, aquatic and insectivorous plants. Nature, the bountiful mother, with open arms, in- vites us, one and all, to come and drink in life, health and happiness from her exhaustless springs, and to learn the secret of her godlike power-the eternal re- newing of her eternal youth. E. S. K. Fires and Fire Department. There were disastrous fires in Nantucket in 1836 and 1838; the loss from the latter is said to have been $300,000, a large amount for those days. But the "great fire," which Nantucketers all date from, was in July, 1846. This conflagration swept away the whole business section, from Centre street to the har- bor, and as far north as Brant Point road; and south to a point opposite the Unitarian church. Oc- curring at a time when whaling had ceased to be profitable and general business was greatly depressed, this was a most serious disaster; but the town at that period was wealthy and the population large, and immediate steps were taken to rebuild. On a total loss of over a million dollars, there was an insurance 146 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. of $300,000, and donations were received from other places amounting to about $70,000. Since that time Nantucket has been remarkably fortunate in its im munity from large fires, and alarms have been of rare occurrence. Two capable steam fire engines now stand in readiness, and rapid work is done in time of need. There are also two hand-engines, and six inde- pendent hose carriages. Roads and Drives. Probably there are few counties in the Common- wealth where a greater variety of roads will be found than on Nantucket. Ranging from cobble-stones to macadam-from beach sand to loam-covered, and last but by no means least, the old "rutted" roads that form a net-work over the entire island. From all these the visitor may choose with the full assurance that he will arrive somewhere before dark, provided he start not too late, and in possession of his senses. Surely it would be difficult under these conditions for even a "stranger" to remain long lost on the island. You have but to shape your course north, east, south, west, no'no'theast, sou'sou'west, west by no'the, or sou'west by west, keep a taut sheet, weather eye well open, then let your craft go until she fetches up against a sand bank. After a good look at the broad blue ocean, you have only to come about and head for the town clock or the old mill, if in sight; if not in sight, sail on anyhow, as the wind serves. Our land craft are both swift and sure on the home stretch. Do you desire to visit 'Sconset, "the patchwork village," and is time an object? You have only to SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 147 drive due east over the fine State (macadam) road, which is now complete from Orange street hill to Broadway, 'Sconset, and in 45 minutes you will arrive on the "bank," from which you can view the open sea, with no land betwixt you and Portugal. A tramp over the beach to the surf (where the bathers disport themselves at about noontide), a good dinner at the hotel, then a stroll about the queer old village, and you are ready for the homeward drive. Should you wish to vary your return trip, you have but to drive northward one mile to Sankoty Head, where you may take a brief view from the cliff (said by the much- traveled to be one of the finest views in the world), then head your steed townward over a good clay road. This road follows the harbor shore, with many curves, winding among green meadows bordered with frag- rant wild hedges, with here and there a pond or a salt-marsh stretching to the harbor. Passing through Polpis village, you will catch fleeting glimpses of remnants of old houses built by the settlers early in the 18th century. Reaching Quaise you take a look at the country seat of the famous "Miriam Coffin" (ship-owner and reputed smuggler); then, winding among bush-covered hills, you catch the first glimpse of the gray old town-crowned, maybe, with a gor- geous sunset. On another day you may start over the same (Pol- pis) road, northeasterly and drive till you see the sign post pointing "to Wauwinet," then, deflecting north- ward, continue your course until the village heaves in sight. From the high ground as you approach Wau- winet you will have a superb view of the upper har- bor and the great "opening" made by the mighty sea in its rage. Another road leaves the Polpis road a 148 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. short distance beyond the Wauwinet road-which leads to Quidnet at the head of Sesachacha Pond, F picturesque locality. If you are still hungry, you may get a good shore dinner at the Wauwinet House, then go and stretch yourself on the beach and watch the surf as it breaks unceasingly, and forget all your troubles. Another road deflects from the Polpis road near the "Bug" lighthouse and, turning eastward, winds among Sauls Hills, finally returning to the Polpis road; or turning southward, leads to Gibbs Pond, a favorite resort. In the late summer and autumn months this is a charming drive; the road is of the old, rutted sort, which to many visitors offer the greatest attractions, with their tangled masses of mealy-plum vines, and the profusion of wild flowers on every hand. The shortest route to the ocean shore is through Pleasant street, due south to the point called Surf- side. Here one may view the ocean in its varying moods, and tramp along the sand-dunes. Here, also, is a typical life-saving station, furnished with the most approved boats and apparatus. The western part of the island still remains to be visited. Taking the Madaket road at the head of Main street, you follow the clay road westward until it ends and the rutted roads begin. Keeping to the northwest you press on until the Long Pond appears in view. Crossing the pond by the "gut" road, you continue on to the end of the island, where a fierce tide races through the opening between it and Tucker- nuck Island. Returning, cross the Massasoit bridge at the south end of Long Pond, and head townward, stopping, perchance, to take a look at the surf (gen- SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 149 erally fine) on the southwest quarter. There are many other attractive drives about the island. To specify these would not only occupy too much space, but would also deprive the visitor of the charm of personal discovery. The roads which are commonly used are indicated on the map at the front of this book. A brief sojourn suffices for new-comers to learn what they most desire to know about the topography of the island. The following table of (approximate) distances is submitted. It includes both land and water routes: From Pacific National Bank to Tuckernuck Bell Buoy Great Point Quidnet Polpis 'Sconset • Sankoty Head 3 9 9 6 9 miles 7 1-2" 8 Tom Never's Head 6 ४ • Surfside 3 Wauwinet, by land Wauwinet, by water Madaket Smith's Point 9 " 7 " 5 7 : : S 154 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. The Climate of Nantucket. Travellers who are accustomed to ocean voyages are cognizant of the fact that the air which blows over the great waters has life-giving properties which must ever be unknown to dwellers inland who are unable to enjoy them. The situation of Nantucket (28 miles from the nearest main-land) and its formation (maximum width, north and south, 4 miles), produce conditions which are largely analogous to those found in mid-ocean. The island lies exposed to every wandering breeze, from whatever quarter; and there are few days, indeed, when there is not a breeze at Nantucket. This, naturally, tempers the summer heat, and makes the nights favorable to sound sleep. It also makes malaria impossible. On this subject, so important to invalids and others who contemplate spending a season on the island for recuperation and rest, the compiler deems it advis- able to publish the opinions of well known physicians and visitors who know whereof they write; whose testimony is therefore authoritative. The following statistics are taken from the In- quirer and Mirror: INTERESTING DATA. "The following meteorological data in relation to weather conditions in Nantucket for the year 1901 are furnished us by Mr. Grimes, of the local weather bureau office: Mean atmospheric pressure, 29.96; the highest pressure, 30.70, Jan. 20; lowest pressure, 28.99, Jan. 28; mean maximum temperature, 53.7; mean minimum temperature, 43.5; mean of the max- imum and minimum for the year 48.6; highest tem- perature, 86 degrees, July 1st; lowest temperature, SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 155 2 degrees, Jan. 20; mean dew point, 42; mean rela- tive humidity, 81; mean vapor pressure, .319; total precipitation, 32.88 inches; greatest amount in 24 consecutive hours, 1.76, April 15 and 16; mean cloud- iness, 6.6; total wind movement, 132,338 miles-an excess of 25,975 miles over 1900; prevailing direction of wind, southwest, 161 per cent.; average hourly ve- locity, 15.1 miles; maximum velocity and date, 68 miles, east, Nov. 24; number of clear days, 83; partly cloudy, 101; cloudy, 181; days with hail, 1; snow 30; fog, 106; days with maximum temperature below 32 degrees, 37; minimum, 84; thunder storms, 14. The summer of 1901 will long be remembered by dwellers in all parts of the "main land" as a season of intense and long continued heat. In view of this fact, the above record of "highest temperature, 86 degrees, July 1st," is indeed worthy of notice. The charts of the United States Coast Survey plainly show the close vicinity of the northern limit of the Gulf stream to the island. As a result of this, the winters are far less severe than on the main land. Severe winter weather rarely begins before February. The late autumn and early winter months are, as a rule, delightful. It is no exaggeration to state that malaria is absolutely unknown on the island. The breezes that blow over it constantly make stagnant conditions impossible. From a mass of communications from eminent physicians and well-known summer visitors from all parts of the country, the following selections have been made: Dr. Harold Williams, of Boston, professor of child- ren's diseases in the Medical School of Tuft's Col- lege, writes as follows: 156 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. Boston, March 13th, 1902. "In reply to your communication of March 11th, I would say that I have practiced at Nantucket for the past twenty-one summers, and that I regard the cli- mate of the island as the nearest approach to the 'Ocean Climate' that can be found at any of our New England summer resorts. By 'Ocean Climate' is meant the air of the ocean itself; an air possessing the maximum amount of oxygen, aqueous vapor and ozone; the minimum of organic impurities; the minimum daily average of temperature; the most regular variations of barometric pressure, and an air containing saline particles of iodine and bromine. These peculiarities of the ocean climate Nantucket possesses in a degree only exceeded by an ocean voy- age, inasmuch as it is an island surrounded by the ocean itself, and far enough removed from the main- land to escape the hot dry winds of the interior and other modifying influences which are operative at all seaboard stations. It possesses a climate peculiarly adapted to the extremes of life; to the aged because of the high barometric pressure and high percentage of oxygen, and to children because it presents the minimum daily range of temperature. It is especially adapted to cases of organic disease of the heart, to convalescents from diseases of the lungs and from the essential fevers. It is an excellent place for per- sons suffering from neurasthenia, insomnia and other nervous affections, and is a specific for many cases of neuralgia and asthma. The number of pleasant days is very large, thus permitting in the highest degree that outdoor life which is so important to invalids. The sea bathing is especially desirable on account of the high temperature of the water (the average for SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 157 the summer usually ranging over 70 degrees). The facilities for diversion and amusements are good and the hotels and lodging houses excellent." Dr. Robert Maury, at the head of the Sanitarium for Diseases of Women, at Memphis, Tenn., who is widely known throughout the South, writes thus to a friend: "I have visited many of the New Jersey and Long Island seaside resorts, but have found in them no climate comparable to that of Nantucket. My family and I will never forget the enjoyment and solid com- fort we had there during the summer of 1897. To inhale the pure and bracing atmosphere, and to sail the waters of the beautiful and safe harbor are truly life giving." Eastman Johnson, Esq., of New York, writes the following: It cer- "It is the only island with a wide stretch of sea between it and the mainland, on the whole Atlantic coast from Halifax to the Gulf. Twenty-five miles of ocean for any land breeze to cross before it reaches it, and the whole ocean on the other side. tainly is most unique in this respect and a circum- stance that will some day make it, as I fully believe, one of the choicest and most coveted spots for sum- mer homes on this continent; and it must be, for there is no other spot like it, or one that has or ever can have those natural advantages of salubrious and healthful air in the most heated summer term, with every facility for living that anybody can have any- where. People will find this out sooner or later, and 158 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. I believe the time will come when it will be covered with summer villas." The Christian Register says: "Of the charms of Nantucket in summer, it is need- less to speak. Situated thirty miles out in the ocean, with every wind a 'sea breeze,' yet with its waters tempered by the genial Gulf stream, it is an ideal refuge from the heat and dust which make July so trying on the mainland. Its ocean views are, of course, superb, its interior moorlands uniquely picturesque and interesting, while the quaint old town itself filled with fine traditions from a sturdy past, is perhaps the greatest charm of all. Hardly a more ideal place for a summer gathering of our people could be selected. "I have a high opinion of Siasconset as a seaside resort for invalids. It is particularly well adapted to improve cases of neurasthenia, hysteria and the neuroses generally. It also is in high repute for asth- ma and hay fever."-Prof. Harrison Allen, Philadel- phia, Pa. "As a non-practitioner, I can say that we have passed nine seasons at Siasconset, and mean to con- tinue. The total freedom from malaria facilitates re- covery from complaints caused thereby. A former student arrived at the place on the day before the one on which, during an experience of several years, he should have been attacked by asthma, and es- caped."-Prof. Burt G. Wilder, Cornell University. General Henry T. Noyes, of Rochester, N. Y., writes the following: "After twenty-five years' acquaintance with the SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 159 summer resorts from Cape May to Bar Harbor, I de- cided to make Nantucket my summer home." H. A. Willard, Esq., of Washington, D. C., says of Nantucket: "I take pleasure and satisfaction in testifying as to health-giving air of Nantucket.' I think it the most desirable location for invalids seeking renewal of health, as well as a most delightful climate in which to spend the summer months. My experience of fifteen summers warrants this assertion." From Dr. J. Tracey Edson, of New York, chief medical examiner of the Equitable Life Assurance Society, New York, formerly of Denver, Colorado, and professor of anatomy and chemical surgery, of the Denver University: New York, January 22, 1902. "The climate of Nantucket is one of the most de- lightful in the world. During the summer the heat is seldom excessive, even at mid-day, and at night a blanket is always needed.* It is also exempt from the cold northeast storms that occasionally visit other less favored seaside resorts. Indeed, the climate of Nantucket is quite phenomenal, or at least it appears such to persons unacquainted with the influence of large bodies of water on an island otherwise favorably situated. "The soil of the island is dry and sandy. Moisture is almost immediately absorbed. There is no malaria and no mosquitoes-except in easily avoided local- ities. The water supply is excellent. *The highest recorded temperature in the summer of 1901 was 86 degrees (July 1st.) 160 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. "Every breeze that blows across the island is fresh from the ocean, pure, sweet and almost equally agreeable whatever its direction. "The climate is not so exhilarating as the dry air of high altitudes, and for that very reason is espec- ially beneficial for those who need rest rather than stimulation. Overwrought nerves here find repose, and the repair which takes place is fundamental in character. "But the advantages of Nantucket are by no means confined to climate alone. It is a beautiful island, and to 'cruise' about over the open moors, along winding roads that are found everywhere and which lead to nowhere in particular, forms one of the popular diversions of the place. "The town itself, which is well shaded with trees -some of them of gigantic proportions—is extremely picturesque and full of interest to those who have eyes to see, for it has been the home of several gen- erations of a sturdy sea-faring people whose whale fishing and extensive commercial relations with all quarters of the world have decidedly modified the usual New England type. During the fall and early winter months I en- joyed my visit quite as much as during the summer. The temperature was several degrees warmer than at corresponding places on the mainland. With a "Children thrive here remarkably well. summer population of 10,000 and a winter population of 3000, there were only two deaths among children during the year 1900. The time to visit Nantucket is any time from June 1st to Feb. 1st." SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 161 1 Denver, Col., March 25, 1902. "In 1901 I spent the weeks between early August and early December in Nantucket, and walked the island well over, from Coskata to Great Head, and from Polpis to Surfside. I was so much charmed with the spot, and have such faith in its healing pow- ers, that I gladly express my approval. For some twenty years I have been a resident of Colorado, hun- dreds of miles from any large body of water, and characterized by the rarity and dryness of its air, and by a large percentage of sunshine. Its climate is stimulating, nervous; and one finds it necessary to get down to the sea level occasionally. I have spent my summers along the north shore, in Maine and in the Provinces; of them all Nantucket seems to me to have the elements to recommend it. Its cli- mate is essentially an ocean climate. I do not recall having experienced any unusual heat in August. There was the bathing in water of temperature from 70 degrees to 74 degrees. The sailing, too, seemed to me to be exceptionally good and safe. Nantucket is particularly blessed in its water supply, which comes from Wannacomet Pond, 2 1-2 miles from town. Of course, the sea-food is unexcelled, a variety of fish being taken from the surrounding waters daily. One cannot forget the quaintness and charm of the town itself, nor the delight of the moors in their variegated autumn colors. If one is in search of a simple life, close to the soil, and to the breakers, he will do well to give Nantucket a trial. As the Rocky Mountains are considered the place for those having lung troubles, so I should regard Nantucket as pre-eminently the place for those with 'nerves;' especially for those who are afflicted with some form 162 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. of neurasthenia, and who need rest. Nantucket has a flavor of her own, and that flavor is good." From Samuel A. Fisk, M. D. Steamboats. The earliest date recorded of a steamboat run- ning to Nantucket is 1818, when the small steamer "Eagle" began making trips between this port and New Bedford. When it is remembered that Fulton's first steamboat made her trial trip on the Hudson in 1807, it appears that Nantucket was one of the earli- est to adopt the new invention. The "Eagle" was succeeded by the "Hamilton," and in 1829 the "Marco Bozzaris," owned by Jacob Barker, was placed on the route. Then followed successively the "Telegraph," the "Massachusetts," the "Island Home," the "Eagle's Wing" and the "River Queen." By far the longest term of service was that of the "Island Home." Beginning in 1855, she continued running regularly until 1895, when she was con- demned and sold. The veteran Capt. Nathan H. Manter was identi- fled with this boat during her full term, never miss- ing a trip when the boat went, and never losing a life. The "Island Home" had several narrow escapes from wreck, notably that of February, 1882, when she was caught in a blinding snowstorm and gale on Tuck- ernuck Shoals. Riding out the storm through the night, she was finally brought safely to dock by the strenuous efforts of Capt. Manter and his gallant crew. The steamer "Nantucket" was built and began SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 163 running in 1886, and the "Gay Head" in 1891. Both of these boats are still in service, the "Nantucket” being used as the winter boat. In 1875 two young men-Wm. F. Codd and Wm. M. Robinson-designed and built the "Island Belle," a steam propeller, 36 feet long, with capacity for 60 passengers. This little steamer was of fine model and thor- oughly built, the entire work being done by the young men. She ran as a ferry-boat to Wauwinet during five summers, and was in service altogether about twenty years. U. S. Weather Bureau and Cable. The present cable, which connects Nantucket with the mainland, via Martha's Vineyard, was laid by the Government in 1886, and on its completion a station of the U. S. Weather Bureau was established. The first message was sent Oct. 18th, 1886, and from that time to the present the line has been in constant operation( except for occasional breakage incident to severe storms). This is the most important easterly station of the Weather Bureau; the island being generally in the track of off-shore storms, special observations are made of them (often several in a day) and reported at Washington. Regular observa- tions are made daily at 8 A. M. and 8 P. M., and duly reported. Storm warnings are repeated to Great Point Light; also to South Shoal Lightship by wire- less telegraph. They are also repeated from the Nantucket steamers to Cross Rip Lightship, and dis- played there. All commercial telegraphy to and from 164 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. the island passes over this line. Messages from the Herald wireless station are also transmitted by it. The station is fully equipped with all self-recording instruments and high power electric lanterns for storm warnings. The above information was obtained through the courtesy of Mr. George E. Grimes, Observer in charge. In 1904 the United States government purchased a commodious dwelling house in Orange street for the Weather Bureau. During eight months of the year the commercial telegraph business of the place is handled by this Bureau. In the four summer months this (commer- cial) business is operated by the Martha's Vineyard Telegraph Company from the telephone office in Main street. Connections are made by cable with all lines. CITIZENS' GAS, ELECTRIC AND POWER COM- PANY. In 1905 this company, composed mainly of resi- dents, purchased at public sale the combined plants of the former company. Extensive improvements have been made in the equipment of the electric plant, with the result of greatly improved service. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 161A Nantucket Station No. 11 of New York Yacht Club. In the spring of 1905 Mr. Paul G. Thebaud, for many years a liberal and progressive member of Nantucket's summer colony, and an ardent yachts- man, conceived the idea of establishing a yacht sta- tion here. Having observed, during the past fifteen years, that the number of yachts coming into the harbor each season steadily increased in number, Mr. The- baud realized that there was urgent need of a sta- tion, with proper landing facilities for these visitors to our shores. With that object in view, he obtained permission from the New York Yacht Club (of which he is a member) to establish one of its stations here. He then purchased a building and placed it at the end of the steamboat wharf, equipping it completely at his own expense. A competent attendant was placed in charge to attend to the wants of visitors. During the season of 1905 abundant evidence was shown that the station was highly appreciated. Mr. Thebaud states that, in comparing the number of yachts visiting the harbor during the summer of 1905 with that of previous years, an increase of nearly three-fold was evident. This result would be due, of course, to several causes: First, to Mr. Thebaud's enterprise in estab- lishing and maintaining the station; also to his un- tiring efforts to make it known to yachtsmen every- where that they would find a warm welcome, and all necessary facilities for landing. ་ 164B SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. Last, but not least, the deepening of the channel by the government dredging in the past year has been, and will be, a potent factor in attracting the larger yachts, which, up to last summer, had been unable to enter the harbor. At the present time twelve feet of water over the bar may be counted on at low tide, with a fairly straight channel, and sixteen feet at high water. It is also stated that, as the result of dredging, boats drawing from eight to ten feet can now reach the wharf, or near to it. The station is known as Nantucket Station No. 11, N. Y. Y. C. It is equipped with landing stage, tenders to bring parties ashore, telephone and post office accommodation, and various supplies can be ob- tained there. This station, while it is under the supervision of the New York Yacht Club, is still maintained and commanded by Mr. Thebaud, who "will be only too pleased to welcome all visitors to our island." Besides being one of the Committee on Club Stations of the New York Yacht Club, he is a member of the Sea- wanhaka Corinthian Yacht, Larchmont Yacht, Amer- ican Yacht, Manhasset Bay Yacht and New York Ath- letic Yacht Clubs. A SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 165 AN OLD 'SCONSET LANDMARK. 'Sconset-"The Patchwork Village." The village of Siasconset is situated on the south- east corner of Nantucket Island on a bluff 30 feet in height and about 400 feet from the ocean. The old village is made up of cottages, many of them built over one hundred-some begun near two hundred years ago. 'Sconset in the beginning was simply a fishing village, and these little houses were the fishermen's temporary homes. They have been enlarged as the necessity came, and some have been entirely remod- eled, but the old street "on the bank" still retains much of its original primitive character. The long, 166 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. many-gabled houses present a sedate, homelike as- pect, widely differing from that of modern villages. But it has been the fate of 'Sconset to come into popularity as a summer resort, and as the tide of travel has steadily increased, it has been necessary to provide accommodations for the large population which assembles during the summer months. This has caused the village to stretch far out at both ends, along the bluff, as well as in other direc- tions, and there are now many fine modern cottages; some are occupied by the owners, many offered for rent. The latter are of all sizes and prices. Not- withstanding the large number of summer dwellers, there is a peculiar air of quiet and restfulness about the village. The footsteps of the passing throng fail noiselessly in the grass-grown streets. 'Sconset Is essentially a place for rest-for weary brain-work-7s, over-wrought business men, and nervous invalids. It is a paradise for children, the broad sandy beach be- ing an ideal playground. There is an excellent shore for surf-bathing, where no fatalities ever occur. Blue-fish are caught by the fishermen during the season, and well stocked mar- kets and groceries supply every need to house-keepers. A steam railroad reaches across the island to Nan- tucket, the train making several round trips per day. The State (macadam) road is now completed between 'Sconset and town, furnishing a fine speedway for teams and bicycles. Two mails per day come and go; telephone communication is always available. The hotels have all been improved recently and a new one, the Beach House, built on the bluff; all of these are now under excellent management. In the 'Sconset chapel services are held by every denomination in SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 167 turn, including Roman Catholic. The Marconi Wire- less Station is a feature of great interest to visitors. In every direction are delightful walks and drives: To Sankoty Head lighthouse, one mile from 'Sconset; to Tom Never's Head and Pond; or across the moors, where innumerable wild flowers bloom and scent the air. From 'Sconset Bank one has an unobstructed view of the open ocean, the nearest land eastward being the shores of Portugal. It is a delightful privilege to see the moon rise from the sea, trailing its path of light to the shore. 'Sconset now prides itself on one of the finest golf links in the State; it has also a spacious Casino, where many fine entertainments are held. A considerable colony of theatrical folk make the village their summer rendezvous. From ail of these data it will readily be understood that no one need be lonesome in 'Sconset. The fishing industry is still followed here, a small fleet of dories being in use during the season. In the fall and winter of 1905-6 an unprecedented catch of cod and haddock was obtained. In " 'Sconset Cottage Life," by A. Judd Northrup, we find this vivid description of "THE OCEAN IN A STORM." "We witnessed one or two storms which revealed to us something of the power of the waves. The long, graceful Atlantic swells, that look so benignant under the summer sky, reared their great fronts and rushed with gigantic fury upon the shore. They came, wave after wave, army after army, an endless host and multitude of roaring waters. The deep hollows seemed 168 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. deep enough to engulf a ship. The towering crests were torn and buffeted into foam by the wind. "The sight was grand, viewed from the 'Sconset bank. The breakers were terrific. They dashed high upon the sands, casting them hither and thither, and in a few hours changing the line of the beach. But the ocean was, if possible, grander a few hours after the wind had subsided. The waves lost nothing of their vastness and fury, but became smoother on their surface and revealed more distinctly their mag- nitude. The mountains and valleys of water swelling to such heights, sinking to such depths, and rolling along shore so swiftly, and then breaking in thunder upon the shore, resolved into a seething foam-this was possibly a more sublime thing than the storm itself. Strange and curious things came up on the beach-pieces of wood borne from distant shores, per- haps; long, broad ribbons of kelp; sea-weeds of many kinds; bits of sponges; shells of various sorts; lively little crabs; curious pebbles. * These days of storm seemed to impress the entire summer population of little 'Sconset with awe. Most of us watched the sea by the hour from the bluff, or standing on the beach just out of reach of the breakers, where we could hardly hear each other speak. We did not care, indeed, to talk, for this grand organ tone of the ocean was something to still all common sounds, and its theme belittled all com- mon thought.” ** * "When the waves and the tide meet on the 'rips,' where the water is only ten or fifteen feet deep-then there is an upheaval of water, a battle of the giants, worth a journey to 'Sconset to see. der comes shoreward a great wave, towering above * * Yon- SEAGIRT NANTUCKET. 169 all its brethren. Onward it comes, swift as a race- horse, graceful as a great ship, bearing right down upon us. It strikes the 'rips,' and is then itself struck by a wave approaching from another direction. The two converge in their advance, and are dashed to- gether-embrace each other like two angry giants, each striving to mount upon the shoulders of the other. Swift as thought they mount higher and higher in fierce, mad struggle, until their force is expended; their tops quiver, tremble and burst into one great mass of white, glittering foam; and the whole body of the united wave, with a mighty bound, hurls itself upon the shore and is broken into a flood of seething waters-crushed to death by its own fury. "All over the shoal the water leaps up in pinnacles, in volcanic points, sharp as stalagmites, and in this form run hither and yon in all possible directions, colliding with and crushing against others of equal fury-a very carnival of wild and drunken waves, the waters hurled upward in huge masses of white. Some- times they unite more gently, and together sweep grandly and gracefully along, parallel with the shore. The sea has its bounds; 'hitherto shalt thou come, but no further.' Mighty and terrible within its own domain, and beating wildly upon the shore, century after century, it yet obeys the law which is mightier than it, and abides within its own limits-powerful to destroy, yet obedient to the last.” *k 'SCONSET GOLF LINKS. The golf moors at Siasconset are considered equal to the best in New England. Their natural formation is peculiarly adapted to the purposes of the game, and every effort has been made to improve their con- 170 A SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. dition. There is a full complement of eighteen holes, with natural hazards and bunkers. The club house, which stands on the hill-top, has been enlarged, and a number of wire lockers have been added. The grounds contain two hundred and ten acres. It is intended to arrange a few practice links, to be in- dependent of the regular links. A professional golfer will be in charge of the links and club-house, and see to the arranging of all matches. THE CASINO. The compiler has before him a handbook contain- ing "Rules for the Government of the Siasconset Ca- sino." As any person interested in the subject may obtain this book on application to the executive com- mittee, it will be unnecessary to include its contents in this work. The committee on both Casino and golf links are: S. Murray Mitchell, Thos. F. Galvin. Wireless Telegraphy at Siasconset.* It In the present age of rapid scientific development our wonder over new achievements is equalled only by our readiness in adapting ourselves to them. is generally admitted that the inventions of Marconi, which already have made wireless telegraphy a prac- tical success, far surpass all other recent triumphs of inventive genius. That Nantucket should have been selected as the first outpost in America (in con- junction with the lightship) for receiving and trans- mitting messages from passing ocean steamers by the new system is indeed a high honor. The entire press of the world has combined to bring the village *See appendix 7. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 171 of Siasconset, on Nantucket Island, into world-wide fame. The South Shoals lightship (which formerly claimed as her distinction that she was farther out at sea than any other) had long rocked and tugged at her anchor, fully unconscious that she was to leap into lasting fame as the mouthpiece of the great sea- going fleet. Some months since the following sugges- tive bit appeared in the New York Herald: WIRELESS WONDERS. Recently, two steamers left New York for Europe on the same day. One, the Etruria, 20 knots an hour, left in the morning. The other, the Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse, 22 knots an hour, left at noon. Both steamers were well equipped with Marconi's appar- atus for wireless telegraphy. In a few hours, they were within talking distance, and as they approached Nantucket South Shoal, the lightship joined in the conversation. Soon came another message from the Lucania far below the horizon at the eastward, in- ward bound. These four great waves of electricity surging through space led to some confusion and the outmost steamer asked the nearest 'Please tell Nan- tucket shut up.' The two outward bound steamers conversed for 72 hours-the longest wireless talk on record, making a roll of printed tape seven inches in circumference. One message over sixty miles of stormy sea on Sunday morning was 'Come aboard for service.'" It may seem superfluous to enter into a detailed description of this new marvel, with the principles of which most readers are already familiar. In view of its importance to Nantucket's history, however, it is incumbent upon the compiler to describe its begin- 172 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET, nings here. The selections which follow are from au- thoritative sources, and are abridged to conform to the limits of this book. The following interesting description is from the Inquirer and Mirror of Aug. 10th, 1901: THE WIRELESS TELEGRAPH. "Over in Siasconset, on the southeasternmost point of the island of Nantucket, on the summit of what is known in local geography as Bunker Hill, stands a lofty mast, measuring 170 feet from ground to the truck, and comprising three parts-lower mast, topmast and top-gallantmast. One week ago this morning these three spars lay alongside Commercial wharf in Nantucket, where they were moored the previous evening by tug Petrel, which towed them from New Bedford the day before for the New York Herald. "This lofty structure, secured by eight wire and four hemp stays, and forming a graceful landmark, may be seen as one leaves Nantucket's limits, and represents a big stroke of enterprise on the part of the great metropolitan newspaper in establishing communication with the Nantucket South Shoals lightship by the Marconi system of wireless teleg- raphy, under superintendence of Commander J. D. Jerrold Kelley, U. S. N., of the Herald staff, Mr. W. W. Bradfield, J. C. Lockyer, and E. George, electricians from the Marconi company, London, installing the apparatus. "Naturally much interest has attached to the erec- tion of the mast and to the placing of the machines. The work of loading the spars at the wharf by Mr. W. H. H. Smith, and the transportation through the SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 173 town was viewed with much interest. The lower- mast is eighty feet in length and it was necessary to go through Washington street to lower Main, and there was just room to swing the great spar and pass through Union, and thus out to the State road. In less than two hours it was landed on the ground, where huge shears had been erected, and at 4 P. M. the heel of the great Oregon pine stick rested at the bottom of the hole eight feet deep prepared to receive it, and the guys were made fast to the four heavy sand anchors, each eighty feet distant. Then followed in succession the erection of the topmast and top- gallantmast, the work being completed and the staff painted from truck to ground early Tuesday afternoon, and the sprit was then adjusted and hoist- ed into position, and measurement made of the dis- tance from its apex to the ground-just 186 feet. A fair estimate of the hill above the sea level is 55 feet, and the height of the receiving wire, which is hoisted to the top of the sprit, will consequently be 241 feet above the sea level. "While all the interesting work of erecting the mast was progressing, Mr. Bradfield and his assist- ants were busy in the Hussey cottage, which will be used for the office. In the south room, which faces out upon the pole, a table has been erected for the apparatus. On it stand the large receivers, the op- erator's key, the numerous Leyden jars (used to give strength to the air waves), and the coil with its large poles, besides several smaller instruments nec- essary in the work. These are connected to 100 cells of 1 1-2 volts, and four large accumulators. ground wires run in a trench to fourteen huge sheets of galvanized iron (all connected by wires) buried in The 174 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. the earth, and thence to other sheets of the iron in the ground at the foot of the mast. The working wire is insulated, and passes out from the instruments through the wall of the house by what is termed the cow's tail, and then is attached to the sprit halyards and hauled to the top of the sprit. This, contrary to the general supposition, is the only part of the appar- atus attached to the mast-just the exposed end of that insulated wire to catch up from a similar wire on the lightship 41 miles from it, the message that the lightship operator may have to send. Truly mar- vellous, indeed! "As explained to our representative, the operation is on the principle of a stone thrown into a pond, the disturbed water dissipating from the centre of the shock in circles which are larger or smaller accord- ing to the force expended in creating them. When the key is operated, the electric shock leaves the end of the wire at its greatest altitude, and radiates in every direction, all the time seeking to reach the earth by the quickest route. When it reaches the wire of some other instrument, on vessel or shore, it finds its short cut to the earth through it, and sounds the warning bell of the instrument there, which calls the operator to his key, ready to receive the intelli- gence his fellow operator is prepared to forward. "The capacity of the instrument is about ten words per minute, and the key differs from the ordinary telegrapher's key in its form only, being a handle lever to be grasped in the hand instead of a button lever for finger pressure. When this lever is pressed down there is a flash between the poles of the coil and a cracking like the snap of a whip lash. "On completion of the work in Siasconset, Tuesday SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 175 afternoon, rigger Perry and his men came to Nan- tucket to prepare for the trip to the lightship the next morning, for which tug Juno was sent down, but she was not suited for the work and returned to Vine- yard Haven. The weather, too, proved too boisterous, and the trip was postponed until Thursday, and the Boston Towboat Company's large ocean tug Mercury sent over. Messrs: Bradfield and Lockyer, two oper- ators from the Herald staff, and rigger Perry and his men embarked early in the forenoon, and it is ex- pected will have their work completed to-day, when all but Mr. Lockyer and the Herald operators will return, Mr. Lockyer remaining to train them and they will remain on the ship permanently. Mr. George, the other electrician, will remain in 'Sconset to train two other operators (also of the Herald staff) who will be the permanent men there. "The Nantucket terminus will bo in the office of the Southern Massachusetts Telephone Company, and will be connected with the 'Sconset office by tele phone. A loop from the telegraph cable to the main land will connect the office with the continent, and the service will be day and night." From the graphic accounts of New York Herald reporters who were present when the first message was received, the following selections were made: “Nantucket, Aug. 16, 1901.-Communication with the Lucania was established about 6 P. M., and mes- sages continued to be received by the lightship. At midnight the first message from the steamship reached the Herald office in Nantucket by way of Siasconset, and messages were received regularly and transmitted to Boston and New York by wire. For about an hour merely congratulatory messages were 176 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. received, together with instructions regarding matter to be forwarded. Congratulations had previously been sent to the Lucania by way of the lightship. Appar- ently the steamship remained within signalling dis- tance for about 6 hours, and when first spoken was about 72 miles east of Nantucket Island. The words of the first message were simply these: 'All well on board.' Prefaced to this was a long date line read- ing: "The Cunard Line Steamship Lucania, Capt. Mc- Kay, 72 miles east of Nantucket, by Marconi wireless telegraph to station at lightship; inauguration of the Herald's service for reporting incoming steamships, and transporting messages to and from them.' "Immediately following came a message to the Cunard agent in New York for the New York Her- ald, reading thus Two hundred and eighty-seven miles from Sandy Hook, with clear weather expect to reach harbor Saturday. All well. McKay.' McKay.' Capt. McKay then followed with complimentary remarks on the inauguration of the wireless system. 'Capt. McKay sends greetings and hearty congratulations to New York Herald for its enterprise and liberality in inaugurating a new epoch in marine telegraphy.' "There was a long and weary wait in the oper- ator's cottage before the presence of the Lucania be- came known. The steamer was due in the South Shoal vicinity about 3 o'clock. Between 5 and 6 P. M. the signals sent from the lightship searching for the Lucania were recorded on the instruments in the Siasconset station. Then the sudden ringing of the call bell on the operator's table brought an end to the suspense, for those in the office realized that the first news of the voyage of the Lucania was about to be received. The Marconi operator, W. W. Bradfield, ད དན 99 ཨ NANTUCKET SHOALS. O Seaterns SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 177 answered the call, and received notice that the light- ship had been signalled by the Lucania, and that mes- sages would be forwarded as soon as possible. Not a word was spoken as the little instrument began ticking at the rate of ten words a minute, and anxi- ously they watched the little band of tape slowly unroll with the dots and dashes plainly visible upon it. Word that the Lucania had been spoken had been telephoned to the Nantucket station, and the excite- ment incident to the receipt of the first message in the United States through the Nantucket Wireless Telegraph station probably was shared by the people in Boston and New York. From a letter written by Commander J. D. Jerrold Kelley, U. S. N., to the Herald of Aug. 18th, the fol- lowing extracts are made: "The peak of the sprit that holds aloft the verti- cal wire by which the signal waves are absorbed or ejected at the shore station is 180 feet above the curve of the hill, and nearly 250 above the plane of the sea. "On board the lightship the wooden spar secured to the steel lower mast swings its sprit 106 feet above the sea level, or 43 feet beyond the gallery of the elec- tric lanterns that shine steadfastly from this outer- most sea mark of the world. Stayed and guyed and trussed tautly this topmast must be, for the lightship is never at rest, and sways day in and out to every breeze that blows and to every sea that riots. The real marvel is the simplicity with which such mes- sages are received and delivered, though there is a savor of witchcraft in it after all. "The theory of electrical wave transmissions is an old one, but to Mr. Marconi belongs the credit of 178 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. the first practical utilization as creators of intelligible speech." THE COHERER.” “The original current is so weak that reinforcement must be furnished, and here enters the function of a 'coherer' that enables the signals to be heard dis- tinctly and recorded legibly. Generally described, this instrument is a small tube, from which the air has been exhausted. In its middle part, separated, between silver posts, is left a gap of a fraction of an inch, and it is filled with metallic particles, chiefly nickel filings. When unexcited by electric currents the high resistance of this gap prevents the coherer acting as a conductor of electricity, but, under the in- fluence of aerial waves sent by the transmitter, the filings cohere in the gap and form a bridge for the circuit to reach and to close a local relay. The relay in turn works a recording instrument, and a 'tapper,' based upon the same principle as the mechanism in an electric bell, serves to 'decohere' the filings and break the bridge, so that the 'coherer' returns to a non-sensitive condition, after it has been successively and intermittently acted upon by the oscillation of this excited ethereal billows. Lord Kelvin has aptly called the coherer an ‘electric eye,' because in its sen- sitiveness it appears to see the waves much as the optic nerve is said to take up the vibration of the undulating light." SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 179 Wauwinet. At the head of the harbor, on the south side, is a little hamlet which is destined to become much larger. Its situation is an ideal one; on high ground, out of reach of the raging surf which forced the opening into the harbor near by, it commands a fine view of the harbor on one side, and the ocean on the other. Both are within a short distance, and are available for bath- ing, boating and fishing. A hotel, the Wauwinet House, is open during the summer months, and a large cat-boat makes two trips from town daily. The sail up the harbor and back (six miles each way) is delightful. No visitor should miss this excursion. If a land trip is preferred, Wauwinet is reached by a drive of eight miles over a fairly good road. From 'Sconset village the distance is four miles. Since the above was printed a large addition has been made to the Wauwinet House, to accommodate the increasing patronage. Mr. J. A. Backus, proprie- tor, will give any further information required. A steam launch is to make regular trips between Wauwinet and "town" during the season. The usual sailboat ferry will also be continued. 180 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. Lodges AND ASSOCIATIONS. UNION LODGE FREE AND ACCEPTED MASONS. At a meeting of the Grand Lodge of Massachusetts held April 26, 1771, a petition was received, signed by William Brock, Joseph Deniston, Henry Smith, Wil- liam Worth, Christopher Hussey and Timothy Folger, all residents in Nantucket, praying that a warrant be issued, empowering them, with such as they might choose to associate with them, to hold a Lodge of Free and Accepted Masons in this town. On May 27, 1771, the warrant was issued, and the Lodge was duly constituted, William Brock being the first Master. The Lodge has had a continuous exist- ence from the above date, being the seventh in sen- iority in the State, the elder lodges being located in Boston and vicinity. About the year 1816 Urbanity Lodge was organized by members of Union Lodge, which remained in ex- istence until that political era arrived, commonly known as the anti-masonic crusade, when it surren- dered its charter and its members returned to Union Lodge. In 1871 the centennial anniversary was observed, among the guests being the Grand Officers of the State, and a large number of visting Masons; the affair was one long to be remembered and was a com- plete success. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 181 NANTUCKET LODGE NO. 66, I. O. O. F. Nantucket Lodge was instituted in March, 1845. In 1846 came the great fire and wiped out all its posses- sions, but the brotherhood on the mainland came to its relief and carried it over the worst disaster in its existence. Since that time the lodge has steadily grown and now contains nearly two hundred mem- bers, and is in a good condition financially. It pays weekly benefits to its members who are disabled by sickness or injury and makes an allow- ance to its widows for funeral benefits. In the year 1901 it paid out to its members over $500 in relief. WANACKMAMACK ENCAMPMENT NO. 16, I. O. O.F This encampment is one of the branches of Nan- tucket Lodge and was instituted in 1846. Its growth at first was slow, but it now has about 100 members. It pays weekly benefits to sick and disabled mem- bers and an amount to its widows. ISLAND LODGE NO. 24, DAUGHTERS OF REBEKAH I. O. O. F. Instituted in 1874, this Lodge has grown steadily until at the present time it has about two hundred members on its rolls, including both ladies and gen- tlemen. It pays no regular benefits, but helps its needy members by many deeds of charity. The branch is flourishing; its financial condition good. THE RELIEF ASSOCIATION.* This association, which is now recognized as one of the most practical and beneficent institutions in the community, was organized February 25, 1873, and in- *Seo appendix 6. 182 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. corporated December 19, 1874. Its purpose, as ex- plained in the preamble read at its first meeting, was to render to aged and infirm persons in the commun- ity such aid as they might require to make their declining years comfortable. It is well known that there are in the town many elderly persons who have houses, often encumbered with debt, but have little beside; others who are without homes, and in the greater need of help. To aid such as these is the object intended. Without other funds than the annual subscriptions of members, this good work was begun, continuing on the same basis until 1881. During that year a gener- ous citizen offered to contribute $1000 to its fund on condition that an equivalent sum should be raised; this was accomplished, and the association thus enabled to enlarge its work. Since that time many generous contributions and bequests have been re- ceived, and at present the permanent fund amounts to nearly $12,000. As only the interest on this sum can be used, the available income for relief purposes is still limited. It is greatly to be desired that this fund shall be increased. It is difficult for those who are unfamiliar with this noble work to estimate the amount of good that is being accomplished with so small an income. The circumstances of all beneficiaries are care- fully investigated, and no aid is ever misapplied. The benefits are conferred without publicity. The sole condition of membership is the annual subscription of an optional amount. No more deserving institution exists in Nantucket than the Relief Association. Its treasurer is Mrs. Annie C. Brock. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 183 THE BOYS' INDUSTRIAL AND IMPROVEMENT ASSOCIATION. This institution, commonly called the Boys' Club, had its beginnings about ten years ago, when Mrs. Zoe Dana Underhill of New York conceived the idea of organizing a club, with the object of attracting to its rooms such boys as otherwise would be lounging at street corners and worse resorts. With the co-op- eration of a number of ladies resident here, the club was started, rooms were fitted up for its headquarters, and efforts were made to gather books, pictures and games to make it attractive. Soon afterward a skilled carpenter was engaged to give instruction in carpentry, and an expert in net-making also taught the boys his art. These two branches have been continued up to the present time, and the repairing of cane-seat chairs has been added. Like all good things, the Boys' Club had a small beginning, but its numbers soon increased and have kept up to an average of about sixty. As one set of boys outgrow the institution and drop out, a new set is always forthcoming. Finding that the club had come to be an enduring institution, steps were taken by the managers to secure a permanent home for it, and in March, 1900, the house in Risdale street was purchased for $500. Two hundred dollars was paid, the balance remaining on mortgage. In April, 1901, the remaining debt of $225 was paid through the generosity of Mr. and Mrs. Stanley E. Johnson. The Association was incorporated in Jan- uary, 1901. Since the purchase of the house, the club has occupied its own home, and the boys take great pride 184 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. in it. The best thing that can be said for the club is that the boys themselves believe in it; in view of that, who can doubt its usefulness? Its present income is derived from the subscriptions of members and a small appropriation from the town. A perma- nent fund is greatly to be desired. There are Nantucketers abroad without number who profess to love their birthplace-even to "the stones in the street." How better could these mani- fest their devotion than by contributions, however small, toward the support of this worthy institution? The treasurer of the club is Miss Lydia M. Folger. GOLDENROD CLUB. The Goldenrod Literary and Debating Society was founded in 1895 by the late Sara Winthrop Smith, with the aim of securing wider interests and a nobler and happier life for the girls of Nantucket. Meetings are conducted in parliamentary form by the members, who are twelve years of age and upwards, and com- mittees are chosen to arrange programs for literary, musical, dramatic and social evenings. Free lectures and classes are provided, experts having been en- gaged to teach sewing, cooking, millinery, dress- making, etc. The club is a member of the General Federation of Women's Clubs and many club women have assisted in its work. In Goldenrod Hall, over Brown & Co.'s hardware store, is a small library, us- ually open Saturday afternoons, and those interested are invited to visit the room. Contributions of money or books will be gladly received by Miss Gertrude M. King, treasurer, Union street, Nantucket. Address P. O. box 301. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 185 CHILDREN'S AID SOCIETY. This society was organized June 10, 1869, its ob- ject being to provide a home for young girls who have no parents, or are exposed to such influences as to make a removal from their parents necessary, where such care and attention can be given to their development, training and education as shall fit them to become respectable and useful members of society. These children are provided for at a home until the age of fourteen, after which efforts are made to se- cure suitable employment for them. By the payment of one dollar any person can become a member. The treasurer is Miss Sarah B. Swain. UNION BENEVOLENT SOCIETY. Organized in 1866, this society was formed for the sole purpose of assisting children, and making them presentable at week-day and Sunday schools. It has a considerable permanent fund, the interest on which only is used. Treasurer, Mrs. Wm. B. Field. WOMEN'S CHRISTIAN TEMPERANCE UNION. Formed in 1876, on the principles of total abstin- ence from all that intoxicates. Nantucket Town Meeting. BY ARTHUR H. GARDNER. While time has touched with annihilating hand the industries which a century ago placed Nantucket in the front rank among the maritime communities of New England, and only the memory remains of her former commercial importance, while associations, re- ligious and political, that once dominated the island 186 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. have succumbed to changed conditions of later years, the Nantucket town meeting remains and bears the stamp of originality transmitted from the father and perpetuated by succeeding generations. The town meeting has been aptly termed the local legislature, and many and varied are the issues of municipal importance that engage its attention. That divergences of opinion often lead to vigorous out- bursts of oratory quite unreportable is true, and one of these occasions has been thus aptly described in a clever satirical poem by the late William H. Macy, Esq.: "Then all the orators uprose; I swan! I thought they'd come to blows As they stood there in dress-up clothes- Right there in annual meeting." But after all, the Nantucket town meeting is a very democratic body, and however acrimonious dis- cussion may have waxed in the heat of debate, the minority acquiesces good-naturedly in the decision of the majority, and the dignity and decorum which prevails and the courteous attention accorded speak- ers is in creditable contrast with many legislative pro- ceedings. In early days special dignity attached to various lo- cal offices that the town was annually called upon to fill, but which from the changed conditions of later years have long since become obsolete and forgotten. The hog reeve and the culler of cooper's stuff no longer clamor for votes, and field drivers, fish wardens and other minor offices not infrequently go begging for incum- bents, while the halo of official distinction which from time immemorial hovered over the charmed circle SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 187 occupied by the selectmen in front of the moderator's desk has been dissipated by their mingling with the audience. From early in the last century until late in the sixties meetings were held in the old "town house" which stood on the corner of Main and Milk streets. It was an unpretentious square-roofed building, whose architecture was suggestive of colonial days. Its straight-back unpainted seats were arranged in ris- ing tiers, and its bare walls echoed with the ring of many a stormy debate in ante-bellum days when Ab- olitionists, public schools and the sheep question fur- nished fruitful themes for bellicose orators. After the sale and removal of the town house, the town occupied successively for a number of years the upper story of the West grammar school-house, the lower story of Academy Hill school-house and the (formerly) Atlantic Straw Works building on Main street. Some thirty years ago, after an ineffectual attempt to sell the South Grammar school-house, its upper story was fitted up as a town hall, and here the town has since assembled in annual and special meet- ings. Within the recollection of the writer the business of the annual town meeting was frequently trans- acted in a single day, and sometimes less, but of late years the tendency to lengthened sessions has pro- tracted town meeting day to town meeting week, with occasional "specials" interspersed during the year. The "warrants" and appropriations have grown pro- portionately until what to-day is regarded as con- servatism would have been looked upon a decade ago as rank extravagance. The town meeting, however, is a conservative 188 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. body. It is the pendulum which regulates the munici- pal machinery, and if occassionally an undue impetus causes it to swing too far in the direction of extrava- gance or parsimony, it quickly recovers itself. It is the controlling factor in the history of the town, past and present, for it must stamp the seal of its approval upon every municipal undertaking. It has produced and will continue to furnish orators and financiers whose memory will be associated only with the period during which they flourished. But the town meeting is an omnipresent body. It has survived the muta- tions of time for 250 years, and like Tennyson's brook, it can say: "Men may come and men may go, But I go on forever." Past, Present and Future. The Nantucket community has, during its exist- ence, passed through many vicissitudes, and been compelled to adapt itself to many changes of fortune. The Revolutionary war cost the island the lives of a large number of its seamen, paralyzed its whaling industry and swept away a large portion of its noble fleet, leaving most of its people, after seven terrible years, reduced to extreme poverty. After a long period of stagnation, resulting from the war, while as yet recovery had hardly begun, a considerable loss was sustained through the capture of several ships by the French. Prosperity was fairly dawning again upon the island when the war of 1812 occurred, with its well-known disastrous results; again many of their ships were captured; once more their industry was brought to a standstill, and the people thrown into great distress. On the return of peace in 1815 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 189 they promptly put forth heroic efforts, and in Decem- ber, 1820, Nantucket had a fleet of 72 ships, besides brigs and smaller vessels. In 1842 the whaling busi- ness culminated, and from that time a steady decline took place. This was due to a combination of causes, too well known to require enumeration here. Per- sistent efforts were made by ship-owners to overcome the many obstacles that presented themselves, but without lasting effect; the whaling industry was doomed beyond hope. In 1869 the last whale ship sailed from Nantucket, and the business was a thing of the past. At various periods, before and after the Revolution, migrations of associated families from the island occurred. Large colonies of whalemen settled in Nova Scotia in 1761-2 and in 1786-7, and another in Dunkerque, France, in 1787. (See chapter on emi- grations.) As whaling continued to grow less profit- able, many of the Nantucket mariners decided to turn their attention to cultivating the soil. Finding the field for profitable farming very limited on the island, they resorted to localities on the mainland, which offered more favorable conditions. Naturally the ex- odus of these large groups of families, together with the constant migrations of individuals, had the effect of materially diminishing the resident population. Notwithstanding this, there appear to have been 8,779 persons remaining on the island in 1850. Consid- erable wealth had been accumulated during the pros- perous whaling period, and a few ships were still sent out. But from that time the population rapidly diminished, and from 1880 to the present time it has risen but little above 3,000. The decay of whaling left Nantucket with little employment for its work- ing people, save in the fisheries and in cultivating the 190 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. land. Good crops of cereals and vegetables could be raised, but the remoteness of the island from city markets made the shipping of farm products expen- sive and generally unprofitable. The same obstacle and others presented themselves when efforts were made from time to time to establish manufacturing enterprises, and each of these in turn was abandoned. During the Civil War Nantucket contributed 339 men to the Union army and navy. From the close of the war until 1870 there seemed to be little ground for hope that the place would ever again be as prosperous as in bygone days. Real estate had depreciated so that houses were frequently sold for from one to two hundred dollars. A large portion of its younger and more ambitious citizens had migrated to other locali- ties, leaving a large residue of the aged, the infirm and the indolent. The general spirit then prevailing here was pessimistic or ultra-conservative, and the conditions of the town seemed to point to a continued diminution of population, which might finally reduce it to a mere fishing village. But fortunately this was not to be, for a new and more cheering note had been sounded. It began to be rumored abroad throughout the country that a new resort for nervous invalids and overworn toilers had been found-an island of the sea whose climate was unequalled; whose com- mons and surrounding waters offered great attrac- tions to visitors. The new business which sprang up was regarded by the islanders generally with their accustomed skepticism. It was not whal- ing-therefore it could never amount to much. But events have forced themselves upon us, and the business of catering to the wants of summer visitors has developed within recent SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 191 years to an extent never dreamed of by past genera- tions. The future of Nantucket as a summer resort is assured; even the most conservative citizens are now compelled to admit that its prosperity steadily increases. There is more than work enough for all who seek it, and real estate once more has a normal value. No more refined or intelligent class of people exists that those who come to the island each sum- mer from all parts of the country for rest and recup- eration. Surely it is incumbent upon all who in any way cater to the needs of these strangers within our gates to observe a liberal policy toward them; to study their comfort and enjoyment, and to give them a full equivalent for all their expenditures; in a word to make them feel at home. Selfish considerations should give way to a broad- er view of the general welfare, and pessimism to the more hopeful attitude. Already a distinctly optimistic note is to be heard on every hand. It is not too much to anticipate that, from this time forward, the Nan- tucket community will rely upon its own industry and enterprise rather than upon the achievements (and estates) of past generations. H. S. W. 192 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. Nantucket Humor. Of the two generic species of humor, conscious and unconscious (each with many sub-divisions) Nan- tucket has furnished conspicuous examples. Among the many "good stories" that have been handed down, with variations, from generation to gen- eration, a large proportion would lose much of their point by being set down in print. Thanks to diligent research, however, the compiler has succeded in un- earthing a few gems, which, though doubtless familiar to many, will bear repolishing and resetting here. THE CAPTAIN'S PRESCRIPTION. A worthy master mariner prided himself on his knowledge of medicine. One of his crew being sud- denly taken ill, the captain went to the medicine chest and, as a measure of precaution, examined the "symptom list" attached thereto. After a careful diagnosis he decided that the patient's case called for remedy No. 13, but unfortunately the bottle contain- ing that drug was empty. After a moment's hesita- tion the captain seized the bottles containing No. 7 and No. 6 and compounded equal parts of the two drugs, to make up prescription No. 13. This was duly administered. The patient is said to have had a close shave, but, thanks to a strong constitution, finally pulled through. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 193 PHONETIC SPELLING. The mate of the whaleship "Aurora," in entering the daily happenings on his log-book, spelled the ship's name thus: "Ororor." On the arrival home, one of the owners asked the mate what that word meant. "Why, the ship's name, of course." "But,” the owner protested, "that isn't the way to spell 'Aurora.' "Wall," said the mate, "if Or-or-or don't spell Ororor, what in thunder does it spell?" THE SAGACIOUS SKIPPER. Capt. Finney of the sloop "Penelope,” of Nan- tucket, had boasted that he was so familiar with the channels and shoals around the island, that he could tell his reckoning in the dark by merely tasting the sounding lead. Obed Fisher, his mate, determined to test the skipper's sagacity on the first opportunity. One dark night in November, the captain having turned into his bunk, it was Obed's watch on deck. He quietly took the lead and, after greasing it thor- oughly, dipped it in the sand which remained in a tub in which turnips had been brought from the isl- and. He then went below, evidently in great agita- tion, and roused the skipper. For goodness' sake, where are we, Capt. Finney?" The captain opened his eyes drowsily, and, seeing the lead suspended be- fore him, seized it and touched his tongue to it. "Great Neptune! Obed," he cried, "Nantucket's sunk, and we're over Doctor Tupper's hill! " ABSENT-MINDED. Uncle Jabez Jenkins attended first-day meeting as usual, occupying one of the "high seats." During meeting he was conscious of certain juvenile eyes 194 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. fixed upon him with unmistakable though suppressed mirth. This made him uncomfortable, for Uncle Ja- bez rather prided himself on his "make up" (if that term properly can be applied to a high-seater). On his return home he removed his broadbrim for the first time since doing his chores in the morning. To his horror he found that he had worn his working hat, covered with dust and cobwebs, to meeting. "De- borah," he called to his worthy spouse, in a voice husky with emotion, "Why did thee let me wear my barn hat to meeting?" A FRIENDLY PLEA. The famous Jacob Barker, financier and ship- owner, employed Nantucket captains for his ships, as far as possible. On one occasion, Jacob (who, by the way, was a Friend, though not remarkably strict) be- came angry with one of his captains because of an indiscretion, and, pulling off his coat, proceeded to "sail in" to the offender. He was restrained by those standing near, and was soon after taken to task by the Friends for breaking the peace. He protested his innocence, saying: "I removed my coat merely for convenience of running away." HIS GOOD MEMORY. The same Jacob, when a boy of twelve at Nan- tucket, earned ninepence by holding a horse. This sum he entrusted to Stephen West, mate of a sloop, to take to Boston and invest for him in candy. This he sold at a profit and invested in snuff, which he also turned over to advantage. Forty years after- wards, Stephen West arrived in New York, mate of SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET, 195 } a ship, bringing a venture of ale from London. Wish- ing to obtain money for Custom House charges, he remembered his old friend Jacob, then a prosperous merchant in New York. Mr. Barker readily advanced him the necessary sum and then asked, "Stephen, what is thee going to get for thy ale?" Stephen named the supposed market price. Mr. Barker said "Leave it with me, I'll do better than that; come here to-morrow morning." The next morning, when Stephen appeared, Jacob pushed him over a much larger sum than he had dreamed of, reserving the amount advanced. "But," said West, "where is your commission?" "O, never mind that," replied Jacob, "thee did not charge me any commission on my candy." ARBITRATION. While Mr. Barker was residing in New Orleans, the crew of one of his ships picked up a ship's cable along shore. Wishing to sell it, they were unable to agree on a price, one of them holding out for a large bonus. They applied to Mr. Barker to act as arbi- trator, to which he agreed. Their spokesman pro- posed cutting off from one end of the cable the share belonging to the stubborn sailor. "No," said Jacob, "that wont do; you must begin at the end and reckon, so much for the mate, so much for the second mate, and so on, which bring's this man's share right here." "Here" being exactly in the middle of the cable, the crew decided not to cut it off, but rather to come to terms with the sailor. SOME QUAKER SQUIBS. A Quaker ship-owner at Nantucket was much dis- turbed by the profanity of one of his sailors. Said he: 196 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. "Friend John, I think if thee should wear my coat for a week, thee would have no inclination to swear." "All right," said Jack, "I'll do it." At the end of the week he returned the coat, and the Quaker said, "Friend John, did thee have any inclination to swear while thee was wearing my coat?" "No," said Jack, "but I had a terrible han- kering to lie! "> It is related of a Quaker school-master of Nan- tucket that he set this copy on the black-board for his writing class: "Beauty fadeth soon, Like a rose in 6th month." It was probably the same one who read to his scholars the story of "Robinson Crusoe and his good man Sixth Day." An old Quaker blacksmith who always told the truth, when asked by a customer who brought him work when it would be done, replied: "Well, thee may call on fourth day." On Wednesday the cus- tomer called. "Is my job done, Uncle Obed?" "No, not yet." "Why, you said it would be done to-day." "O, no, I said thee might call on fourth day; I'm al- ways glad to see thee! "BUTTS UP.” Uncle Jed Ratline, a well-known character in the early fifties, distinguished himself by shingling his hog-pen with the butts of the shingles pointing sky- ward. This innovation earned for him the nickname of "Butts up." SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 197 One day, while passing Capt. Joseph Coffin's house in Main street, he spied that mariner building a "walk" on top of his house. Wishing to be social, Uncle Jed sang out "What'r'ye buildin' up there, Cap'n?" Remembering Jed's shingling exploit, the captain replied, "a hog-pen." "Humph," said Uncle Jed. "Better stay in it when ye git it done! A << FOOPAW." The same Jedediah was employed as night watch- man on the Straight Wharf during whaling days. A ship, having discharged her cargo of oil, was "hove down" to have her bottom repaired. This was done by blocks and falls attached to the mast head and connected with a capstan on the wharf, the bar of the capstan being lashed fast with a small rope called a nettle. One dark night, as Uncle Jed was pacing back and forth on the wharf, he stumbled against this nettle, and, forgetting it, repeated the process several times. At last, losing his temper, he whipped out his jack-knife and cut the nettle. Quick as a flash several things happened. The capstan bar, being re- leased, flew around and struck Jedediah, breaking sev- eral of his ribs, and sending him flying, like a ball from a bat, into the dock. Simultaneously the ship gave a lurch and righted herself. Uncle Jed's cries were heard by the watchmen in the tower, and he was fished out, a sadder if not a wiser man. FRIENDLY DIPLOMACY. Captain Hezekiah Barnard, of Nantucket, on arriv- ing home from a cruise to New York, undertook to work his sloop into her usual berth at the wharf. But the skipper of a Cape wood-packet claimed prece- 198 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. dence for his vessel, and tried to crowd the "Dionis G." out, letting off a volley of verbal fireworks at the Friendly Hezekiah. Enduring this in silence for a time, the latter presently called down the hatchway to his mate: "Obed, just step on deck, will thee, and use some of thy unadvised language to this blas- phemer! Obed, who had just lathered his face for a shave, promptly sprang on deck, mounted the bow- sprit and opened fire on the enemy, who was quickly silenced. The "Dionis G." was then hauled up to her berth. HIS MEASURE. Cousin Cyrus Folger was seen walking briskly down Main street, with both hands stretched out be- fore him, the palms toward each other. He was ap- proached along the route by several acquaintances, who supposed he wished to shake hands. But Cousin Cyrus shook his head negatively, exclaiming "Don't bother me, I've got the measure of a pane of glass! FROM EARLY TOWN MEETING RECORDS. "Voted, that no hogg shall go on this piece with- out an order." "No man shall mow grass on the ram paster." "" On one occasion, the great seal of the town having been lost or mislaid, the clerk drew a curious scroll on the margin of the record book, with the following note appended: "By vote of the Selectmen, this charac- ter shall be recognized as the town seal until the clerk can get another M-A-I-D.” A SAILING ORDER. Two Nantucket skippers, finding themselves in New York, started out for a stroll up town. Passing a glittering oyster-house, they determined to indulge SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 199 in oyster stews. In due time the order was served, and the mariners began to fish for the bivalves in a sea of milky soup. Suddenly Capt. Stephen Bailey waved his hand to a colored waiter, and as the latter approached, the skipper hailed him. "See here, my lad, I want some more oysters; these here are a day's sail apart! ELIZABETH THE GRANDILOQUENT. Cousin Elizabeth Black prided herself on her John- sonian English. The current slang of the old whaling town was her abhorrence. She kept a "shop" in her high-stoop mansion in Main street. Being a Friend, musical instruments were not included in her stock. Naturally, the youth of that day were wont to tease the stately dame by asking for all sorts of outlandish things. A common inquiry was "Has thee any jews- harps?" "No, my child, and no other instrument that the ancient Israelites used either for diversion or devotion." Lydia Green, a worthy spinster, appears to have been a formidable rival to Elizabeth Black for stately diction. Hear her: "I should enjoy my accustomed perambulation over the hills, were it not for inhaling the noxious effluvia which emanates from the cadav- erous carcass of a defunct quadruped." SEIZING HER OPPORTUNITY. Cousin Merab Pinkham was a thorough-going Nan- tucket housekeeper, with whom "cleaning house" was an absorbing passion. On one occasion she sum- moned her friends to an old-fashioned tea-party. At the usual supper hour the Cap'ns and their wives sat in the best parlor anxiously waiting, with appetites attuned for corn-pudding and plum-cake. Six o'clock 200 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. had struck and no sound of the supper-bell; another ten minutes passed, and one of the guests, a crony of Cousin Merab's, ventured into the dining room and found Merab engaged in vigorously scrubbing the shelves of her dish-closet. On being discovered, she exclaimed, "Well, 1 declaro, I was taking down the chiny to set the table, and I just thought it would be a good time to wipe the shelves off, and then-well, I forgot all about the party." "FIGARO'S" BON-MOT. The late Henry Clapp, a native of Nantucket and one of the New York "Bohemians" of a half-century ago, said of a certain bore: "He is not for a time, but for all day" (thus cleverly transposing Ben Jon- son's eulogium on Shakespeare.) “GOGAFRY.” A sagacious school-boy, when asked by his teacher "Where is Alaska?" promptly replied “in the north- west corner of off-island.” A WEDDING QUARTRAIN. The late Samuel H. Jenks, for many years editor of the Nantucket Inquirer, is credited with having written the following lines on the occasion of the mar- riage of Lydia B. Long to Jonathan Bourne: "Said the bridegroom in haste to the bride elect, 'Don't Lydia B. Long for the torch of love burns;' But the damsel, more wary and circumspect, Said 'Is this the Bourne whence no trav'ler re- turns?'" ITEM IN "ISLAND ECHO." We regret to learn that Mrs. Almira G. Higgins is confined to her house with a slight attack of tonsil- itis, instead of pneumonia, as reported last week. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 201 A POINTER. Wife (to lazy husband, who has been sitting by the kitchen stove all winter): "Well, John, one or the other of us has got to go round Cape Horn, and I aint a'goin'! COOL RECEPTION. A wife, whose husband has been away on a four- year voyage, sees him coming up the street on his return; goes and gets a water pail, and greets him at the door with "Hullo, John-here, go get a pail of water! A MAN OF SUBSTANCE. "The goods and estates of Nathaniel Wier, who deceased the first day of March, 1680. It shows that all his worldly possessions were valued at £35, and consisted of his wareing apparell, shows and stock- ings, 2 pare of halfe woven sheets and a pillow case, 1 flock bed, 1 pillow, 1 blanket & 2 old coverlets, 1 tabel & 3 chairs, 1 old bibell and 5 other books, 1 iron pot, 2 bras kettels, 1 scillet, 1 frying pan, 1 iron settel, 1 grid-iron, a trauell, fire shovel, firetongs, 1 lamp, 6 milch tres, 4 little tres, 4 trenchers, 3 old pueter dishes, 3 porrengers, 1 salt seler, 1 pint pot, 1 saser, 1 buter chern, 2 old chests, 5 yds. Wollen cloth, the dwelling house, out houses, the ten akers of land, 2 steers, 1 cow, 6 heafers, 17 cheses, 20 weight of bacon, 3 busels of wheat, 8 busels Indian Corn, 1 busel malt." The compiler is glad to learn that at least one of his progenitors was reasonably well-to-do. What more has any man need to hanker for than the goods 202 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. and chattels described in this list? Yet possibly he was not satisfied with all his pots and kettles, his scillet, his milch tres and little tres (?), his pint pot and saser, not to speak of his house and land and live stock. (Surely the above valuation did not include all these). And then to have to go and leave them all-Alas, Alas! MRS. MCCLEAVE AND HER MUSEUM. For many summers this truly remarkable woman presided over her museum in Main street, giving daily lectures to the throngs who assembled to see and hear. Her discourse was copiously interlarded with pas- sages of descriptive "poetry." These were supposed to be of her own composition, but after her demise it was darkly hinted that a certain "Silas Wegg," who was wont to "drop into poetry in a friendly way” was really the "poet." Like Shakespeare, "Lizy Ann" is doubted by some in these days; but there was never a shade of doubt about her skill in reciting the "poems." Here are samples: "This old shell comb, though not as old as Noah, Yet, when fifteen, my sister Phebe wore; She worked very hard to gratify her passion, And when the cost was earned, 'twas out of fash- ion." "This glass tankard, tho' not a hundred years, Grandmother's gift, as the case appears. The pound of putty daubed throughout is meant To serve for use as well as ornament." SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 203 "These are ashes, supposed to be Which fell on various ships at sea." "These musk-ox horns just seven feet ten from end to end they measure; Look up and view them at your pleasure." THE CEDAR VASE. (Holding it at arm's length and carefully lifting the napkin which covered it.) "This vase of which we take in contemplation Merits, friends, your studious observation. Since, but for Cousin Thomas Macy's enterprise, This feast would not be set before your eyes. So listen, friends, while I at once advance To tell the truth with pleasing circumstance. 'Twas Saturday morn, the busiest day of all, When Cousin Thomas upon me called, And with a grace that could not be denied Invited me to take a morning ride. Across the hall with throbbing heart I skipped, Took out my pies and soon was all equipped. The horse with speed across the commons vaulted, And very soon at Cherry Grove we halted. Our purpose, friends, I trust you'll call it good, Was to get a nice smooth piece of cedar wood. One hundred and twenty-seven years and sound Was that same post set firm within the ground. Cousin Thomas took a hasty view, Then seized the saw to cut the stick in two. He sawed and sawed through many a knot till tired, And very freely all the time perspired. The sun was out and never shone so hot. 204 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. The saw was dull and tough that monstrous knot. I offered help but met with firm resistance, For Cousin then refused all assistance. The piece, perhaps in length two feet, Was brought to Reuben Folger's shop on Orange street. He took the knotty stick within his hands, And wrought the vase which now before you stands. I thank thee, Cousin Thomas, for thy gift, And oft my thankful heart I lift, And ere my gratitude can fall away The firm revolving planets must decay." The last stanza of another poem: "I think much praise belongs to the one Who worked the wood so well begun, For it is some trouble, as I am told, To work out such pieces to make them hold. Therefore, Friend Folger, much credit to thee Will ever be remembered by Eliza Ann McCleave." Occasionally, to relieve the strain, Lizy Ann would lapse into prose. Taking up two small figures, she would remark: "Now, friends, take notice of these figures; one is Caesar, the other Brutus. I've forgot- ten which is which; Mary Lizzie, tell me, which of these two got slewed?" It is worthy of note that this famous artist had an understudy, who became almost her equal in skill. It is only justice to Mrs. McCleave to state that the considerable sums of money received by her dur- ing a long career were used for the relief of those dependent upon her. SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 205 } APPENDIX. 000 1. Page 23.-Mr. Alexander Starbuck, a life-long student of local history, gives his opinion as follows: "I have quite a variety of spellings from old maps. In 1689 it seems to be given as Violante or Vlielant or Nantocke (Fr). It is also written Nanticket. In 1703 it is spelled Nantokee, Nantakei, and Nentocket. In 1760 it is Nantuket and Nantucket, in 1774 Nantuk- ket. As to its meaning, I am strongly of the opinion ex- pressed by Dr. J. Hammond Trumbull, who was one of the best Indian scholars in the country, and who wrote me in reply to the question, that he inclined to the belief that it meant about the same as Natick-"The place of the hills." 2. Page 31.-Mr. Starbuck differs radically from the account quoted from "Quaint Nantucket," and gives his opinion that "Coffin was right, and Gardner grossly wrong." There is no doubt but that the author of the book men- tioned has the habit of jumping at conclusions, and ad- justing facts to fit his theories. The two leaders, Coffin and Gardner, subsequently be- came reconciled. Jethro Coffin, grandson of Tristram, married Mary, daughter of John Gardner. The house which was built for the young couple in 1686, is still stand- ing, and is called the oldest on the island. 3. Page 89.-The birthplace of Maria Mitchell is now owned by the M. M. Association of Vassar Graduates and others, and has been made a repository of many interesting 206 SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. portraits, relics, and other articles once belonging to the family, and of valuable natural history collections. The house is open to the public during the summer months. 4. Page 140.-Since this list was compiled the follow- ing pamphlets by Henry B. Worth have been published by the Historical Association Nantucket, Lands and Landowners, Part 1, Vol. 2, No. 1. The Settlers, their homes and government, Part 2, Vol. 2, No. 2. The Indians of Nantucket, Part 3, Vol. 2, No. 3. Nantucket Lands and Landowners, Part 4, (In prep’n). A Century of Free Masonry on Nantucket, Vol. 3, No. 1, by Alexander Starbuck. 5. Page 170.-The establishment of the first Wireless Station in America at Siasconset in 1901 has been de- scribed in detail, being an important matter of history. It remains to be stated that, in 1904, the Marconi Wire- less Telegraph Co. of America, established a station at Siasconset, at a point a short distance from the original one. From this station direct communication is main- tained with outgoing and incoming steamers, the reports being sent by wire to their destination. The South Shoal lightship still operates the Wireless, but in connection with Newport only. The original Herald Station at Sconset has been discontinued. 6. Page 181.-In the first edition mention of the Howard Society was inadvertently omitted. That Society was started in 1836 its objects being practically identical with those of the present Relief Association. It is still existent. 7. Page 120.—During the past year a movement has been made towards the cultivation of cranberries on a large scale SEA-GIRT NANTUCKET. 207 Mr. Richard H. Burgess and others were the original projectors of this work, and a tract of land in and around Gibbs' Swamp was cleared and planted by them. Recently a stock company has been organized under the name of the Burgess Cranberry Co. The president, Mr. H. P. MacLaughlin is an expert in cranberry growing, and under his direction the work is being carried forward rapidly. The tract now owned by the company includes 280 acres, 170 of which have already been ditched. Large crops may be confidently anticipated as the plants arrive at maturity. This bog, when completed, will be the largest in the country. 8. Page 120.-The Sea furnishes an unlimited supply of kelp and rock-weed, which are well known to be excel- lent fertilizers. BUSINESS DIRECTORY NANTUCKET, 1906 ALMON T. MOWRY, REAL ESTATE AGENT, NANTUCKET, MASS. Correspondence SolicITED. Boston Address: 236 CONGRESS STREET. ALBERT G. BROCK, FIRE AND LIFE INSURANCE, 70 LIBERTY STREET, NANTUCKET, MASS. ANTHONY W. AYERS, REAL ESTATE AGENT, PROPERTY FOR SALE AND TO LET. WYER'S ART STORE AND ANNEX. Nantucket Pictures, Books and Souvenirs. Headquarters for Artistic Post Cards. Circular sent on application. Photographic Studio of Kodak Developing and Printing. M. W. BOYER. FINE PORTRAITS IN ALL SIZES And Styles. VIEWS, FRAMES AND MATS. The Nantucket Historical Association Has on exhibition an extensive and highly interesting collection of Nan- tucket Relics, Pictures, Books, Doc- uments, etc., at the Building on Fair Street, near Main. Open during the season daily (except Sunday) from 9 to 12 a. m. and 2 to 5 p. m. Admission, 15 Cents. Visitors who are before or after the season will be admitted by appointment. MRS. M. A. HUSSEY, Millinery, Dry Goods and Fancy Work. WYER'S SOUVENIRS. Telephone Connection. MARY E. CROSBY, COAL AND WOOD, WHALE STREET, Sign of the Old Tiller. Between Heads of Old South and Commercial Wharves. Established 1879. T. C. PITMAN, Carpenter, Builder and General Jobber, All Work Guaranteed. P. O. Box 20. SHOP, CORNER SOUTH WATER AND OAK STREETS. RESIDENCE, 48 CENTRE STREET. NANTUCKET. GEORGE E. MOOERS, Auctioneer and Commission Merchant, REAL ESTATE AGENT. NOTARY PUBLIC. JUSTICE OF THE PEACE. Also Dealer in FURNITURE AND A GENERAL LINE OF HOUSE FURNISHINGS. MAIN ST., NANTUCKET. C. W. AUSTIN, DEALER IN Stoves and Kitchen Furnishing Ware. BICYCLES AND REPAIRING. KODAKS and Photographic Supplies. Full line of Golf and other Sporting Goods. MAIN STREET, NANTUCKET. W. H. H. SMITH'S Livery, Boarding and Sale Stable Head Steamboat Wharf Nantucket, Mass. Horses and Carriages of all descriptions, to let by the hour or day, with or without drivers. Party Wagons and Hacks to and from the boats and to any part of the Island. Also Baggage Transfer. Drivers, Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. Telephone Connection 2-12 JOHN K. AYERS, Successor to R. M. Allen. Sanitary Plumbing, Steam, Gas and Hot Water Heating. Contractor for Domestic Water Supply from Driven or Dug Wells, by Steam, Wind or Hot Air Engines. NANTUCKET, MASS. ALFRED E. SMITH, CONTRACTOR AND GENERAL JOBBER. Plumbing, Heating, Gas, Sewerage. Repair Work Neatly Done. Estimates Cheerfully Furnished. NANTUCKET, MASS. H. PADDOCK & CO., E. G. THOMAS. Painters And dealers in... H. B. SMITH. Paints, Oils, Varnishes, Glass, Etc. FRESCOAT IN ALL TINTS FOR WALLS. Everything usually carried in a first class establishment. NANTUCKET, MASS. Nantucket Union Store. Our Specialties: BACK BAY CREAMERY BUTTER KING ARTHUR FLOUR CHASE & SANBORN'S TEAS AND COFFEES. Nantucket Union Store ESTABLISHED 1847. INCORPORATED 1897. MAIN STREET, Telephone Connection. NANTUCKET, MASS. ESTABLISHED 1875 TELEPHONE CONNECTION MAIN STREET NANTUCKET WILLIAM HOLLAND SUCCESSOR TO F. J. CROSBY WHOLESALE AND RETAIL DEALER IN FIRST-CLASS GROCERIES SUPPLIES AND TABLE these days of fierce competition in business, it takes square deal- Ning, prompt and courteous attention, hus quality takes square, to win. We prove our claim to all these by doing the largest business in our line on the Island. We have been in the grocery business here 28 years, and by prac- ticing the above method, have won, and hold the confidence and esteem of our best people and our summer residents. We would respectfully solicit a trial order. If you would like a few necessaries put in the cottage to be there upon your arrival, an order by mail a day or two in advance will be faithfully and promptly filled. We make a specialty of High-grade Coffee and Gilt Edge Butter. Very respectfully, WILLIAM HOLLAND, Successor to F. J. Crosby. H. P. BROWN & CO., THE BOSTON STORE. Dry and Fancy Goods, Ladies' and Gents' Furnishings, Boots and Shoes, Bathing Suits. Cor Main and Orange Sts. Branch Store in Siasconset. NANTUCKET. J. W. WESTGATE, Watch, Clock and Jewellery Repairing, MAIN STREET, opp. Pacific Bank C. W. WEEKS, MERCHANT TAILOR, Ladies' and Gentlemens' Garments Pressed, Cleaned, Altered and Repaired. Men's, Women's and Children's Shoes. Agent for Horton's Laundry. Main Street, Nantucket. R. E. CONGDON, Pharmacist, MAIN STREET, NANTUCKET. NANTUCKET DOMESTIC BAKERY. Headquarters for Family Bread and Pastry. Tea Rolls, which cannot be excelled, a specialty. LOWER PEARL ST., Next to Athenæum. NANTUCKET. MISS E. F. SYLVIA, MILLINERY. Lowney's Candies. Centre St., Cor. Pearl. Wyer's Colortype Post Cards. Are generally recognized as the most artistic cards yet published. The coloring is true. Twenty-six subjects in color. Catalogue sent on application. HENRY TODD, JR., Manufacturer of Choice Confectionery and the Famous Salt Water Taffy.. WHOLESALE AND RETAIL Mail Orders promptly attended to. LOWER PEARL STREET, NANTUCKET. NANTUCKET FLOWER STORE CENTRE STREET. A complete line of Cut Flowers, Trees and Shrubs always in stock. FUNERAL DESIGNS A SPECIALTY. FRANK H. PRINCE, Manager. HENRY S. WYER PUBLISHER AND DEALER IN Souvenir Books, Pictures, Post Cards ILLUSTRATIVE OF NANTUCKET. Special attention is called to the large assortment of artistic post cards, copied from my own photographs. These comprise 26 Colortype Cards printed by the Kurtz process, which are considered the best colored cards (from nature) yet printed. Also, a set of Gelatine (black and white) cards, and four Surf Studies in Delft blue. An assortment of Half-tone cards at low prices. (See catalogue.) A new edition of Sea-girt Nantucket: A hand-book of Historical and contemporary infor- mation. This book has been carefully revised and corrected, and new matter has been added. Price in paper cover, $ .25 66 "cloth Postage, .50 .05 All visitors to the Island are welcome to visit Wyer's Art Store and Annex. A catalogue of goods will be sent to any address on application to H. S. WYER. List of Hotels and Boarding Houses. SEA CLIFF INN, North Cliff Road. POINT BREEZE, Brant Point Road. SPRINGFIELD, North Water St. OCEAN HOUSE, Centre St., cor Broad. HOLIDAY INN, Orange St. SWAIN'S INN, Centre St., cor. Lily St. VERANDA HOUSE, Step Lane. GRAY NOOK, North Cliff. FRANKLIN COTTAGES, North Cliff. MISS FOLGERS', Cliff Road. NESBITT COTTAGES, Broad St. MRS. G. G. FISH's, Broad St. MRS. T. C. PITMAN'S, Centre St. MISS M. L. AYERS, Pearl St. MRS. WAITT's, Pearl St. MRS. CATHCART'S, Pearl St. ROBERTS HOUSE, Centre St. PALMER HOUSE, Union St. MRS. AMES'S, Fair St. THE WAVERLEY HOUSE, Gay St. Desirable lodging rooms will be found in many private dwellings near the above houses. SIASCONSET. Beach House, on the bank. Ocean View, near the bank. Atlantic House, on the avenue. WAUWINET. Wauwinet House. The New Point Breeze, BRANT POINT ROAD, BRACEY CURTIS, Proprietor. NANTUCKET. This house commands an unobstructed view of the water from steamboat wharf out beyond jetty, and is within five minutes' walk of bathing beach, steamboat and post office. All modern improvements, Room en suite, with baths. Large dance hall, Sun-parlor, Orchestra. The table is unexcelled on the island. The house will be open from June 1st to October 1st. Correspondence solicited. The Ocean House, AT HEAD OF BROAD ST., Directly up from Steamboat Wharf. NANTUCKET, MASS. W. D. CARPENTER, Prop. A Brick building, with spacious piazzas, shaded by elm trees. On high ground, within short distance of Post Office and business quarter. House has been renovated and refurnished, and new plumb- ing system added. Its table has been highly commended by patrons, and will be steadily maintained at a high standard. Every effort will be made to conduce to the comfort and enjoyment of guests. For terms send for circular. W. D. CARPENTER, Manager. THE HOLIDAY INN, NANTUCKET. J. B. FOLGER, PROPRIETOR. Situated on the highest ground and overlooking the harbor. Large airy rooms. Best hotel service guaranteed. Rates $2 per day and upwards. Table board $9 per week. VERANDA HOUSE. NANTUCKET, MASS. JOHN M. WINSLOW. Open June 1st, to Oct. 1st. For terms send for booklet PITMAN HOUSE, 48 CENTRE STREET, NANTUCKET. Five minutes walk from steamboat landing, post office and bathing beach. Board with Room $10 to $12 per week. Table board $1.25 per day. Rooms $3 to $6 per week. Mrs. T. C. Pitman, P. O. Box 20. MISS M. L. AYERS, PRIVATE BOARDING, 45 Pearl Street, Nantucket, Mass OPEN ALL THE YEAR. Hot Water Heating. A few refined guests accommodated in winter. Wyers' Celebrated Surf Pictures In great variety may be seen at the ART STORE ON FEDERAL ST. The Book in which this is found is the only Hand Book now in the market It has been carefully revised and much new matter added. Price in paper covers 25 cents In cloth covers 50 cents. Postage 5c. ARTHUR WILLIAMS, MASON. Contractor and Jobber in all branches of the business. YORK STREET, NANTUCKET .*. T. C. PITMAN, .. Real Estate Agent .. Houses, Land, etc., For Sale and Rent. P. 0. Box 20, Nantucket, Mass. BEACH HOUSE, SIASCONSET, NANTUCKET. Situated on edge of Bluff, commanding a superb view of the Broad Atlantic. The large addition recently made, including Tea Room, Parlors, etc., will add much to the pleasure and convenience of guests. Send for Booklet. G. H. BRINTON, Proprietor. To the Traveling Public Are you collecting Post Cards or sending them to friends? If so, you are invited to visit Wyer's Art Store and inspect a large assortment. The Colortype cards are universal favorites. Twenty-six subjects. Catalogue sent on application. H. S. Wyer Nantucket UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN 3 9015 04640 5125 HOW TO REACH NANTUCKET. From BOSTON express train service of the New York, New Haven and Hartford Railroad leaves South Station at corner of Summer Street and Atlantic Avenue. Trains run via Brockton, Middleboro, Buzzards Bay to Woods Hole, connecting there with steamers of the New Bedford, Marthas Vineyard and Nantucket Steamboat Company for Nantucket. From NEW YORK the steamers of the Fall River Line leave Pier 19, North River, making the trip through Long Island Sound and Narragansett Bay to Fall River, at which point passengers take train for New Bedford, con- necting with the steamers at that point for Nantucket. From NEW YORK steamers of the New Bedford Line leave Pier 40, North River about June 22nd to October 1st, making a direct trip via Long Island Sound and Buz- zards Bay, connecting at New Bedford with the Nantucket Steamers, thus giving an all water route from New York to destination.