SINANT - 1930 Thermagumu takkelkægt ALANNING SYARAT AND KAASINING AT SAMNI AARPOTKALK A 65050 7 ३१ 2977 है? OCEANIC SKETCHES. Love Bos Edwards Thoma. Nightingale, Esq Ses Cochrane & Co Water Place, 1935) OCEANIC SKETCHES. 122179 BY THOMAS NIGHTINGALE, ESQ. WITH A BOTANICAL APPENDIX BY DR. HOOKER, OF GLASGOW. London: JAMES COCHRANE AND Co., 11, WATERLOO-PLACE. 1835. LONDON: Printed by W. LEWIS, 21, Finch-lane. дізновые Adam AdJ 4-3 → INSCRIBED, BY PERMISSION, TO HIS GRACE THE DUKE OF SOMERSET. CONTENTS. CHAP. I.-Valparaiso - Its Scenery-Fertility of the Soil-Style of Building-A Protection from the Earth- quakes - Society - Anecdote - Callao Its Ruinous Condition-Abject State of the Inhabitants-Banditti- Attacked by three Desperadoes-Partial Administration of Justice-Beauty and Riches of Lima still traceable -Picturesque Approach to the City-Houses-The Plaza-The Opera and Bull-Fights-Remarks on the latter Diversion-Its Influence on the People - Licen- tiousness and gross Immorality of the Inhabitants- Paita-Surrounded by Barren Sand-Hills-Indian Set- tlement on the Banks of the Amatape River-Festival in Honor of the Virgin Mary-Extraordinary Costumes -Dancing and Fire-works-Concluding Observations on the General State of Peru and Chili CRAP. II.-Bade adieu to the American Shores-Arrived at James's Island, belonging to the Gallipagos-Tor- toises found in Abundance on the Coast-Total Absence of Fresh Water and Springs in these Islands, with one Exception-Seemingly not designed for the Dwelling- place of Man--Recent Colonization of Charles' Island - Large Yellow Lizards found in the Mountains, eaten by the Sailors-No Quadrupeds-Four Kinds of Land Birds, their excessive Tameness-Similar Natural Pro- ductions to those of Chili and Peru-Deduction from this Coincidence-Mountain of Salt-Remains of a Crater-Hawksbill Turtle -- Curious Mode of desposit- ing their Eggs -Two American Sailors on the Island Sta -A human Skeleton found on the Top of one of the Mountains-Whale-fishing. • 4 · Page 9 26 viii CONTENTS. CHAP. III-Marquesan, or Washington Islands-New- kihevah-The Islanders Cannibals-Their Appearance -Landing by Mistake-Critical Situation-American Missionaries-Obstacles they have to contend against- Their long Stay not likely to be practicable-Misrepre- sentations of Mr. Stewart's Narrative-Birds of the Island-Doves, red, white, and green-Dare not pene- trate into the Interior-Convenient Harbour at Newki- hevah-Cocoa-Nuts and Bread-Fruit the principal Food of the Natives-Revolting Ceremony at the Death of a King, or Chief. 34 K CHAP. IV. Society Islands-Huahini-Mr. Barff, the English resident Missionary-I obtain an Apartment in the Queen Masheira's Palace-Visit her Majesty-Late War between Huahini and Barabola-The Queen headed her Troops in Person-A Fact, attesting the good the Missionaries are working-The Scenery of Huahini particularly attractive-Native Huts-Chris- tianity established-Idols no longer Worshipped-Can- nibalism completely eradicated-Translation of the Bible into Tahitian-Recollections of Mahini, an old Native-His Address to the Meeting, as well as those of the Native Teacher and Mr. Loxton-Death of a Native Chief-His Trust in the Efficacy of revealed Religion. Page CHAP. V. Departure of Mr. Barff and Myself—Affèc- tion shewn by the Islanders to Mr. B.-Ulitea, natural Characteristics similar to those of Huahini-Its social Condition much inferior-Visit the Harvey Islands— Rarotonga the principal-Delightful Residence of Messrs. Buzacott and Simpson-The Romantic Beauty of the Scenery-My Excursions in the Island-Con- tinually followed by Crowds of the Natives-Insects- Birds-The Chiefs send Parties into the Mountains for 48 CONTENTS. ix their Plumage - Accompany Mr. Buzacott to Church- Another Instance of the kindly Feeling of the Natives to the Missionaries-Anecdote relative to their former barbarous Condition No Anchorage for Vessels- Pasturage extremely rich-Cattle thrive here well Wylotache • K · P CHAP. VI.-The Scenery and Inhabitants of Wylotache -To Native Teachers established there-The Palmes- tone Islands-Dangerous landing there-At present un- inhabited-The Red Tropic-bird-The Samoa, or Na. vigator Islands-Could not land at Tutaila, owing to the Ferocity of the Inhabitants-No Signs, however, of Hostility; on the contrary, they seemed anxious for us to approach their Shores-Favourable Reception at Manono-The Appearance of the Islanders-English Sailors living amongst them-A Club Fight-Upola, a commodious Harbour-Hospitality of the Natives - Savai-The Residence of the King, Marlietos-Alarm- ing Experiment practised upon me-Obscene Dances- Degraded State of the Females-Nature of the Towns and Settlements-Manners of the Inhabitants-The Form of Government in the Navigators-Much Im- provement effected by the Native Teachers--Mission from England about to be established-The Natural Productions of the Islands-Food of the Natives- Reflections on the State of the Inhabitants. CHAP. VII.-Re-visit Rarotonga-Curious Method of Salutation-Introduction to the King-Friendly Recep- tion-Native Feast-Dwelling of the King-Atiu- Difficulty of Landing-Settlement of the Natives-Mr. Barff's Lecture-Curious subterranean Cavern-Indica- tions of the former Existence of a Crater-Barter with the Natives-Narrow Escape of a Lieutenant under Captain Cook-Mangea-Its Situation-Semi-conver- Page 59 70 X CONTENTS. sion of the Inhabitants-Contest between the two Par- ties-Its Result, and the Anticipations of the Mission- aries-Contrast between the Mangeans and Natives of Atiu-Ingenuity displayed by the former in manufac- turing Articles of Dress, &c. Conclusion. • CHAP. VIII.—I again visit the Society Islands-Intelli- gence respecting the American Missionaries stationed at Hooatrehual-Horrible Barbarity of the Natives of that Island-Ulitea-Sudden Death of Mr. Loxton- His Character-Botanical Excursion-Height of the Mountains-The Coral-reefs and Parrot-fish-Prawns, Clamfish, and Salmon-Cat-fish-Anecdote-Otaheite -English Mission destined for the Marquesas-Arrival of the Challenger-Meeting with old Shipmates- Excursion to the interior--Dangers of the Route-Lake Scene by Moonlight-Entertainment given by Captain Seymour to the Chiefs-Their Deportment-Eineo- Missionary School established there--Visit to one of the Ancient Morais in Ulitea-Ascent to one of the loftiest Mountains in Otaheite-Thunder and Rain at its Sum- mit-At the Base the Weather calm and serene-Gene- ral Remarks on the social and individual Characteristics of the Society Islanders-The Exertions of the Mission- aries-Causes of their partial Failure-Departure for England-Tibouai-The Mutineers of the Bounty- K ·· Page 74 104 BOTANICAL APPENDIX by Dr. Hooker, of Glasgow.... 127 1 LIST OF EMBELLISHMENTS. 1. PORTRAIT of the Author.... 2. Peruvian Indian in his Dancing Costume.. 3. Marquesan Hut, at the Island of Newkihevah.. 4. Interior of the Queen's House at Huahini-the Author reposing in his Peruvian hammock S Frontispiece. 5. Missionary House at Gutagnia, the residence of Mr. Pitman of } ·· • · 6. Apia Bay, north-west side of Upolu, Navigator? Islands.. PAGE 22 38 49 62 78 PAGE 13, for miles, read leagues. "" >> "} "" ERRATA. ور 19, dele about twelve miles inland. 46, for haper read paper. 52, for couch read conch. 61, for Simpson read Pitman. 108, for craw-fish read clam-fish. INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. IN contemplating human nature, and in considering its vast variety of condition, from the rudest state of barbarism up to the highest degree of mental culture, and the largest ex- tent of social refinement, we are naturally, and, as it were, inevitably led to a scrutiny of the several circumstances which have occa- sioned those wide differences that exist be- tween beings linked together by the common ties of nature, and by the holy bond of a simi- lar destiny. If this feeling or this contemplation be natural,-in other words, if it fall in and B 2 INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. accord with the common course of our reflec- tions, how much more forcibly must an indi- vidual be impelled to its indulgence, who shall have actually witnessed, and thus positively realized the amazing distinction between man and man, caused by those incidents which, on the one hand, attach themselves to a state of little more than mere animal existence, and, on the other, display the power of mental and moral training through all its mighty and magnificent consequences. Often, very often, has the writer of these pages, while coursing the southern division of the great Western Continent-or while visiting the various groups of islands which are scat- tered, as it were, with profusion on the Pacific Ocean-said to himself-Had Columbus, or some other individual of a master-mind, never conceived the probability of a Transatlantic. World, or never followed out this grand con- ception into actual demonstration or discovery, what a vast difference of scene and of circum- INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. 3 stance would the majestic sun daily witness, while throwing his light and splendour on the western hemisphere. Forests would still have stretched themselves out in sombre and so- lemn silence over plains that are now con- verted into large, populous, and powerful cities;-Nature's fairest and most beauteous productions would yet literally have continued to "waste their sweetness on the desert air." Swamps and marshes would still have existed, exhaling poison and pestilence, which are now, by human skill, changed into salubrious lo- calities; and, above all, man, majestic but feeble man, would have dragged on a brutal existence, apparently with no other objects than to propagate his species, or fight the bat- tles of his clan with a murderous and unmean- ing vindictiveness, or to bow his head before the commands of a slavish superstition, wor- shipping idols, and feasting on the blood of his fellows; instead of being, as he has now be- come, the subject of a large and social com- B 2 4 INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. pact, enjoying the delights of life—restraining the causeless exercise of fierce and unruly pas- sions, and adoring, not with the scalping- knife and tomahawk, nor in the wild orgies of human sacrifice, but with the fervent outpour- ings of his heart, and the aspirations of his better nature, the living and only God-the God of truth, of justice, and of mercy. Would that the picture thus drawn were without its shades! Oh that we might vir- tually witness, in its full extent, the large measure of unmingled good that one should expect to follow from these mighty changes! But thus much must be admitted by the most sceptical and querulous, that when and where Christianity may have arisen, unincumbered by the inventions and superstitions of priest- craft and people, then and there "healing has ever been on its wings." It may not have diffused the knowledge which puffeth up, and whose fruits are pride and vain-glory, but the inculcation of its precepts ever has INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. 5 10 tended, and ever will tend, to mitigate and soften the savage wildness of the barbarian, to refine his grossness, humanize his affections, and dignify his propensities. The most atrocious deeds heretofore com- mitted with unconsciousness and impunity, have been opened up to view in all their blackness; and individuals, still perhaps only half civilized, have been brought to contem- plate with shame and horror, what before they had regarded with complacency and delight. I shall have opportunities, in the course of the ensuing narrative, of attesting the won- ders—yes, I may call them-the wonders, that have been already wrought in the way of moral reformation by the despised-at least, the too often despised and much disparaged-Mis- sionaries; and I shall feel myself compelled to do these deserving men that justice which is denied to them by some who are very little qualified to judge of the good they are effecting, or of appreciating the difficulties with which they have to contend. 6 INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. While their contemners are sitting quietly, and perhaps indolently, under “their own vine and their own fig-tree," these men are encountering dangers almost insurmountable, with an enthusiasm and a perseverance which, in a warrior, would be esteemed the very height of valour and of heroism. I do not mean to identify myself with the Missionary cause; my objects and pursuits have been of a different character; nor is it my design to engage in theological or polemi- cal topics. I have only one duty to perform, that of narrating circumstances as I found them; and if, in the execution of this task, I may have occasion to give the meed of praise to Missionary labours, I shall, it is hoped, in so doing, be without the suspicion, that my sentiments have been warped by prejudice, or my delineations drawn with any intention of producing effect. 1 That I feel grateful for the kindness which every-where greeted me during my accidental sojourn among the benevolent individuals to INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. 7 whom I now allude, I have no desire to con- ceal;—at the same time, I do not wish to thrust myself forward as the avowed apologist of the Missionaries, but am only anxious that this little volume be received as an unsystematic record of what I met with during my singular, and not seldom, perilous wanderings, for the purpose of seeing nature under novel aspects, and selecting rarities from the earth, the ocean, and the skies. I may say, in conclusion, that those who expect to find, in the following chapters, ela- borate details as to the character and habits of the islanders whom I visited, will be disap- pointed. The observations which a stay of a few months amongst them enabled me to make, have necessarily been superficial; and, had I not thought that any information re- specting a part of the globe so little known, and so rarely visited by Europeans, might, from its very novelty prove interesting, I should scarcely have ventured to publish them. ∞ INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. This book, then, must be viewed merely as the index of those natural impressions and obvious feelings which cannot fail to arise in the mind of every man, who mingles for the first time with a strange and uncultivated race of his fellow-creatures and if it shall be the means of inducing further enterprise and investigation, or shall serve as a stimulus to the still nobler work of ameliorating the condition of those upon whom the light of civilization has not yet beamed, the humble anticipations of the author will be more than realized his hopes more than fulfilled. OCEANIC SKETCHES. CHAPTER I. CONTENTS. VALPARAISO-Its Scenery-Fertility of the Soil-Style of Building-A Protection from the Earthquakes-Society— Anecdote-Callao-Its Ruinous Condition-Abject State of the Inhabitants-Banditti-Attacked by three Desperadoes -Partial Administration of Justice-Beauty and Riches of Lima still traceable-Picturesque Approach to the City- Houses-The Plaza-The Opera and Bull-Fights-Remarks on the latter Diversion-Its Influence on the People— Licentiousness and gross Immorality of the Inhabitants- Paita-Surrounded by Barren Sand-Hills-Indian Settle- ment on the Banks of the Amatape River-Festival in Honor of the Virgin Mary-Extraordinary Costumes- Dancing and Fireworks-Concluding Observations on the General State of Peru and Chili. CONSIDERATIONS partly of a scientific na- ture, and others of mere personal importance, induced me, in the middle of 1833, first to • B 5 10 OCEANIC SKETCHES. visit the Coasts of Chili and Peru, and after- wards to extend my expedition to some of the numerous groups of islands situated in the South Pacific. From the frequent intercourse established of late years between Europe and that portion of South America lying adjacent to the sea, its localities, and the manners and customs of its people, have become so familiar as to offer, in the present day, but a barren subject for discussion. Feeling, therefore, that it would be uninteresting to linger, where so little of novel information is procurable, I shall, with a few cursory remarks, pass on to a part of the globe over which a veil of obscurity is still suspended, and the partial removal of which the following pages are intended to facilitate. The first town I visited on the Southern Coast of America was Valparaiso,* so called * Valparaiso is compounded of two Spanish words, signify- ing Vale of Paradise. OCEANIC SKETCHES. 11 by its discoverers, but which, in my opinion, exhibits none of the perfections intimated by the appellation. The principal features of its scenery consist in distinct and fertile vallies, producing a variety of shrubs, aloes, and ferns, and animated by several species of the fea- thered tribe, all of which, including the beau- tiful Chilian humming-bird, are now well- known in Natural History. There is sufficient singularity observable in the style of building throughout this town, to excite attention; the houses, composed of light materials, are perched on the tops of lofty mountains, also on the sides and summits of precipices, many hundred, and sometimes thousand, feet in height. This plan is adopted as a security from the inroads of the sea, which not unfre- quently, during an earthquake, rushes with irresistible violence over the low lands, and would inevitably overwhelm any buildings occupying a less elevated position. The English settlers in Valparaiso consist Kapa 12 OCEANIC SKETCHES. chiefly of a few merchants, whose habits and dispositions do not so exactly accord with our notions of conventional propriety, as to render their society agreeable to the generality of British travellers, from whose minds are not effaced all recollections of the decorous and sober demeanour exhibited by the same class in the mother-country. This may in some measure be accounted for, as, from their fre- quent intercourse and connection with the Spanish Americans, they have necessarily im- bibed a portion of that intemperance and recklessness which the primitive settlers in the Southern Continent of America seem to have handed down as an heirloom to their descendants. I will here venture an anecdote, evincing the antipathy which the fair-sex of this country have to the patriarchal ornament of a beard. I was standing in the street one day, gazing at the curiosities around me, when two Spanish ladies seemed marvellously chagrined at my presence; and the hasty epithets of OCEANIC SKETCHES. 13 turquo, bruto, and diabolo, from their gentle lips, pronounced the punishment I deserved for having allowed my chin to escape, during a whole six months, the operations of the barber. After a brief stay at Valparaiso, I found myself, at the close of a ten days' passage, en- tering the roads of Callao. This, although the seaport town of Lima, is in a most ruinous and dilapidated condition; and the inhabi- tants, with a few exceptions, are of the lowest and most vicious class, exhibiting in their appearance a combination of depravity and abject poverty, to which, it is hoped, the world presents few parallels, and which it may with certainty be affirmed, cannot be surpassed. The route, comprising about three English miles from Callao to Lima, was infested, dur- ing my stay, by numbers of those daring and desperate banditti who form one of the chief perils to which a stranger is liable in these Spanish and Portuguese settlements. They 14 OCEANIC SKETCHES. had become so open and violent in their at- tacks, that no one ventured to travel unarmed. Even the two public vehicles, which were the only communication between the towns, were at that period continually guarded by a mili- tary escort. In such a case, it is not sur- prising that unprotected pedestrians should meet with molestation; and during my short stay I was fated, personally, to experience the polite attentions of these gentlemen. Being once out on a shooting excursion, not far from the road in question, I was stopped by three of these ruffians, one of whom holding a mus- quet to my head, made the usual demand for plata. Fortunately I was accompanied by a friend; and, as we were both provided with pistols, we succeeded, though not without dif- ficulty, in intimidating the desperadoes, who at length departed, threatening revenge at some future period. Had I been alone, it is probable that I should have had a more sub- stantial proof of their vindictiveness than mere OCEANIC SKETCHES. 15 mutterings. So partial is the administration of justice in this country, or, rather, so entirely is it perverted, that an individual possessed of wealth sufficient to purchase ex- emption from punishment, may perpetrate and repeat crimes of the blackest dye with a reckless impunity; while upon the poor wretch, unable to obtain immunity through the same corrupt means, who commits the most venial offence-the most trifling error, is immediately visited with the extreme severity of the law. And against such practices as these there is no protection-all appeals to the Government would be fruitless, nay, even extravagant! The beauty, and, what were once deemed, boundless riches of Lima, have been extolled by many pens; and, although time and faction have partially diminished the glories of this far-famed city, the traces of its grandeur are still discernible, and it is considered, with the exception of Mexico, the finest town in Spanish America. The entrance to Lima appears more 16 OCEANIC SKETCHES. picturesque, by the contrast it affords to the monotonous tract of country which forms the approach from Callao, when, without any prior introduction to suburban villas, cul- tivated gardens, or glowing landscapes, the traveller finds himself at once entering a suc- cession of avenues, shaded by trees resembling our poplars, but more beautiful and luxuriant in their foliage, while at the same time a de- lightful fragrance is inhaled from the orange and lime, whose branches, laden alternately with fruit and blossoms, towering above the surrounding groves, add a fresh and exquisite enchantment to the scene, which terminates at a ponderous arched gateway, such as is de- picted in Spanish romance, and which one might easily imagine erected to admit a chosen band of those invincible warriors who, in the bye-gone days of chivalry, formed the boast and bulwark of Spain-that land once known by the heroic deeds of her warlike sons, but now, alas, sunk, sunk in effeminacy and vice! OCEANIC SKETCHES. 17 Having passed the barrier that guards its entrance, a large and regularly-built town, bearing evident marks of the wealth and pomp which formerly reigned there, presents itself to view. The houses are low and flat, as in Chili, and much ornamented with paintings, not of the chastest description. In the midst of Lima is a spacious square, called the Plaza, in the centre of which stands a public foun- tain, surmounted by a finely-sculptured image of Fame, whence descends a cascade of water into a large circular stone basin, surrounding the statue. The places of public amusement which I visited were the opera and the bull- fights. The latter diversions are so revolting. to every feeling of humanity, that it seems impossible for any but a Spaniard or a Portu- guese, habituated to such sanguinary specta- cles from his earliest infancy, to derive any pleasure from beholding them. While I was there three criminals, who had been sentenced to death, were mercifully pardoned, upon con- 18 OCEANIC SKETCHES. dition that they would receive the first rush of the infuriated bull, kneeling in the middle of the arena, a short spear being the only weapon of defence allowed to them. The poor crea- tures of course complied; one of them was killed, his body mangled in the most dreadful manner; the other two escaped with fractured limbs. It cannot be deemed surprising that assassinations are so numerous in this country, or that the inhabitants are such adepts in the art, when human existence is thus looked upon as naught compared with human gratification, and the taking away of life, though it be from a brute, is made a matter of mere wanton dis- play; and when the popular shout greets, and the contributions of the rich and the noble are liberally bestowed upon him who exercises the most skill in this debasing occupation. The people of Lima, more particularly the females, even in the highest classes, are ex- tremely licentious and dissipated. Their total disregard of external delicacy is truly proved 台 ​OCEANIC SKETCHES. 19 by a prevailing style of dress, called the Sia- manta, evidently invented for the purposes of intrigue, which is here, with few exceptions, practised unscrupulously by both sexes. In fact, the observance of moral duties forms no part of the Limanian creed, and vice, disdain- ing even the semblance of virtue, walks abroad in all the grossness of its nature. From Lima I proceeded to Paita, a small uninteresting town upon the Peruvian coast, about twelve miles inland. The country sur- rounding it is one vast collection of sand-hills, on whose surface grows neither shrub, grass, nor any other kind of vegetation. The rocks in the vicinity are imbedded with shells, thus giving evident marks that the waves once rolled over the ground that is now covered with the haunts and dwelling-places of man. The houses in the town are built of bamboo canes tied together, and the roofs partially thatched with straw; but, in a climate where rain is rarely seen more than once in four "" 20 OCEANIC SKETCHES. years, this simple mode of building is not con- sidered incompatible with comfort. During the whole period I remained in this part of the country, I was hospitably received at the dwelling of Mr. Higginson, an English mer- chant, to whose kindness and liberality many of his countrymen have been indebted, while roving, like myself, far from the land of their nativity. in Previously to leaving Peru, I visited, company with an American officer, an Indian settlement situated on the borders of the Amatape River, which supplies Paita with water, contained in large calabashes, and brought thence, a distance of forty miles, on donkeys, driven by the natives. In the course of our journey, through the obstinacy of our guides, combined with the slow pace of the animals which conveyed us, we were com- pelled to repose one night on the Sandy Desert, exposed to heavy dews, the injurious effects of which, in a tropical climate, are : OCEANIC SKETCHES. 21 especially to be apprehended by the Euro- pean travellers. Arrived at the banks of the Amatape, I observed, in luxuriant growth, the mangrove and beautiful mimosa trees, in whose foliage lodged a varied throng of birds, glit- tering in the gay plumage of a tropical clime. From stem to stem, in sportive gambols, leaped the gray squirrel, while the more ele- vated branches, crested with small yellow flowers, afforded their honied nutriment to the diminutive trochilus, (or humming-bird,) whose delicate form seems fitted only to grace a fairy landscape, whence the beholder might not in- aptly imagine it had originally strayed. Ex- tending even to the river's brink, were thick plantations of cotton and maize; and here and there was scattered a species of palm, several feet in height; its stem, entirely divested of foliage, rendered more singularly striking the leafy coronal, which, waving gracefully from its summit, seemed to look down as if in magnificent disdain on the earth's more puny 22 OCEANIC SKETCHES. M offspring. The river itself is infested with numerous alligators, whose numbers are occa- sionally diminished, when young, by a large description of crested-crane, which frequents the adjacent sands. While I staid at this set- tlement, I was present at a fête given in honor of the Virgin Mary, to which numbers of In- dians flocked from all parts, arrayed in the most extraordinary costumes, intended to re- present different animals, such as cows, pigs, &c. Some of the ornaments which shone con- spicuously among the plumes of ostrich fea- thers that composed their head-dresses were of great value, being made of virgin gold, ex- tracted from the Peruvian mines. There was nothing singular in the style of dancing, except. that some of the party held in their hands, during the performance, a wooden spear, decked with variously-coloured ribbons, which they flourished about them with an amazing rapidity. Feasting and revelry occupied a great portion of the night, which terminated A OCEANIC SKETCHES. 23 " with a display of fireworks, scarcely inferior to exhibitions of a similar kind in Europe. Shortly after returning from Amatape, I bad a final adieu to South America, and left without regret the shores of a land, pre-emi- nent, it is true, in natural beauty, but sunk in an abyss of misery and crime which are fast hurrying it to destruction. Nothing can be more deplorable than the present political and social state of Chili and Peru. Unbridled license and misrule prevail under the boasted name of freedom; and it is certain that the interests of the country have been gradually retrograding since its emancipation from the Spanish yoke. This is the conclusion I have drawn from actual observation and the testi- mony of the inhabitants, who also aver that it was formerly (being then proportionably wealthy) less difficult to pay the exorbitant prices charged for articles of trade, than it is to procure them at their present reduced rate. We scarcely dare enquire what can be the 24 OCEANIC SKETCHES. ultimate fate of a land like this, torn by intes- tine feuds, possessing no home manufactures, and consequently paying in specie (a now per- petually-decreasing source of wealth) for fo- reign commodities, which continue to be sold at enormous profits, governed, moreover, by rulers absolved in selfish projects, and utterly regardless of the ruin or welfare of those over whom they preside? Such a state of affairs, it is evident to an impartial observer, cannot exist beyond a very limited period. Even now, tottering beneath a weight of crime, its ap- proaching downfall, accelerated by the politi- cal dissensions of its inhabitants, the Spanish portion of South America, must eventually, unless protected by a stronger power than at present upholds it, become again subject to the aboriginal possessors. Ages have passed away since the Indian was exiled from the beautiful and sunny land of his nativity, yet has not the lapse of centuries dimmed the recollection of that fatal hour, or lessened the desire of OCEANIC SKETCHES. 25 vengeance, transmitted through successive ge- nerations, which still burns like a never-dying flame in the bosoms of this injured race. M C CHAPTER II. CONTENTS. BADE adieu to the American Shores-Arrived at James's Island, belonging to the Gallipagos-Tortoises found in Abundance on the Coast-Total Absence of Fresh Water and Springs in these Islands, with one Exception-Seem- ingly not designed for the Dwelling-place of Man-Recent Colonization of Charles' Island-Large Yellow Lizards found in the Mountains, eaten by the Sailors-No Quad- rupeds-Four Kinds of Land Birds, their excessive Tameness -Similar Natural Productions to those of Chili and Peru- Deduction from this Coincidence-Mountain of Salt- Remains of a Crater-Hawksbill Turtle-Curious Mode of depositing their Eggs-Two American Sailors on the Island -A human Skeleton found on the Top of one of the Moun- tains-Whale Fishing. C WITH the brief remarks contained in the previous chapter, I take a final leave of the American shores, whence I departed January OCEANIC SKETCHES. 27 15th, 1834, and, after a brisk sail of a few days, arrived at James' Island, belonging to the Gallipagos group, nine in number. Here we anchored for three days, in order to pro- cure a supply of tortoises, which are found in great abundance, and of an enormous size, some of them measuring from four to six feet in length, and four in breadth. They are, moreover, so weighty, that the united strength of five men, alternately exercised, is required to convey them from the mountains. The total absence of fresh-water and springs, with one exception,* throughout the Gallipagos, would incline us to believe that these remote spots of earth were never intended for the dwelling-place of man. There is no trace of original inhabitants to be discovered; and the recent colonization of Charles' Island, by a party of Guayaquilanians, is the only attempt on record made to fix, amidst these solitary * Charles' Island. c 2 28 OCEANIC SKETCHES. recesses, a permanent abode. The whole of the group, according to the reports I met with, presents the same natural features as those observable in James' Island; but as I did not visit any of the remainder, I cannot speak with certainty on the subject. The sides and summits of the mountains are entirely covered with trees and long grass, and produce a large species of lizard of a deep orange-colour, its back surmounted by a white comb. These crea- tures burrow in the earth like rabbits, are ex- tremely unprepossessing in their appearance, but perfectly harmless, and are sometimes taken for food, in preference to the tortoise, by the crews of vessels that anchor here. I did not meet with any quadrupeds; and only saw four kinds of land-birds, namely, two sorts of hawk, a small brown turtle-dove, and a species of sparrow, all of which are so ex- cessively tame, that they frequently, during my rambles, perched on my head, and rested there in fearless security, alike unconscious of OCEANIC SKETCHES. 29 the power and will too often inherent in the lords of the creation to tyrannise over and in- jure her inferior members. Their confiding tameness bespoke how rarely a human footstep had broken the solitude of those sequestered haunts; and it was a pleasing reflection, to a mind somewhat weary with toil and solicitude, that at least there was one green spot, in this wide world of ours, where suspicion and mis- trust were unknown, and their baneful effects unfelt! The trees and shrubs I met with were the same as those I have noticed in Chili and Peru; and this coincidence, combined with the volcanic strata of the island, induces me to think it highly probable that the Gallipago group, now six hundred miles distant from the main land, at one period joined the vast Con- tinent of America, and was separated from it by one of those awful convulsions of nature, which have ever been, and still continue to be, a marked characteristic of this portion of the New World. But however plausible this con- 30 OCEANIC SKETCHES. jecture may be, as to the relative position of these islands on the earth's surface, the sub- ject is still surrounded with difficulties, and remains impenetrable to philosophical re- search: for, no sooner is one opinion formed, than a contradictory light breaks on the ob- server's mind, subverts the validity of his for- mer reasoning, and establishes a new theory in its place. Thus the remarkable circum- stance, that neither the adjoining continent, nor any of the neighbouring islands, produce the large species of tortoise found amongst the group now under consideration, may perhaps be deemed of sufficient importance to defeat the supposition that these isles ever held a geographical position different from their pre- sent one. On the west side of James' Island I discovered a mountain composed of salt; and, a short distance from this, the remains of a crater, but no signs of any recent eruption, though a considerable portion of the adjacent ground was strewed with decayed lava. In OCEANIC SKETCHES. 31 f the evening, at certain seasons, the beach is covered with numbers of the hawksbill turtle, which come on shore for the purpose of de- positing their eggs to this process I was myself a witness, having seen one make an aperture in the sand with her hind flippers, lay one hundred and twenty eggs, cover them over, and then return to her natural element. On leaving James' Island, we were accom- panied by two American sailors, who had re- sided there for nearly two months, having sought a refuge from the tyranny of their cap- tain in that deserted spot. These men were beginning, when we arrived, to suffer much from the scarcity of water, which can be ob- tained only during the rainy season. The absence of this necessary of life most probably occasioned the fatal catastrophe, the melan- choly memento of which met my gaze, as gain- ing one morning the mountain's summit, I beheld a human skeleton, whitening in the sun, the remains, no doubt, of some unfortu- 32 OCEANIC SKETCHES. nate being, who, finding naught within the plains or valleys to slake his burning thirst, had climbed that lofty height in search of a spring or rivulet, and, discovering neither, had thus miserably perished! After quitting the Gallipagos, several suc- ceeding weeks were occupied by our whaler in seeking her cargo from the ocean's depths. Anxious to witness so exciting a scene as the attack and capture of the mighty leviathan, I volunteered to accompany the boat's crew in their hazardous expedition: our first attempt proved most successful, for in a few hours we returned to the vessel with our prize, a sperm- whale, measuring sixty feet in length, and forty in circumference. The next trial, how- ever, was of a less-encouraging nature, the boat being assailed (as it often happens) by the intended victim, who, opening his terrific jaws, threatened us with instant destruction. For a few moments we were suspended, as it were, between life and death, unknowing OCEANIC SKETCHES. 33 which would be our lot; and, but for the timely aid of another boat, all our efforts must have been unavailing to avert the fate that seemed so near. Excursions of similar peril, in which the sailors were continually engaged, formed the only exception I experienced, for nearly three months, to the dull and tedious same- ness of a life on shipboard. C 5 CHAPTER III. CONTENTS. MARQUESAN, Or Washington Islands-Newkehevah-The Is- landers Cannibals-Their Appearance-Landing by Mistake -Critical Situation American Missionaries-Obstacles they have to contend against-Their long Stay not likely to be practicable-Misrepresentations of Mr. Stewart's Narra- tive-Birds of the Island-Doves, red, white, and green- Dare not penetrate into the Interior-Convenient Harbour at Newkehevah-Cocoa-Nuts and Bread-Fruit the principal Food of the Natives-Revolting Ceremony at the Death of a King, or Chief. < M It was not until the middle of March 1834, that we arrived at the Marquesan, or Wash- ington Islands. When off the weather-side of OCEANIC SKETCHES. 35 ous. Newkehevah, the captain and myself landed at Tipie Bay, supposing, by mistake, the American Missionaries were stationed there, and consequently imagining we might do so with perfect safety. Scarcely had we put our feet on shore, when we were immediately sur- rounded by a crowd of the horrible-looking natives, who seemed to have exerted all the art they possesseed to render themselves hide- Entirely destitute of clothing, their limbs were tattooed with curious and uncouth figures, the crowns of their heads closely shaven, while their remaining hair, which was very long, hung down in thick shaggy tresses, nearly covering their faces. A few minutes sufficed to augment the numbers of these terrific beings to an alarming extent; some came armed with spears, and were evidently preparing to convey us up the valley. At this juncture our situation was most critical; with- out defensive weapons, completely in the power of savages, whose intent of devouring us, when 36 OCEANIC SKETCHES. introduced to the remainder of their tribe, was too painfully obvious, the whole population of these islands being cannibals, and preferring human flesh to any other kind of food. Such was our state of anxiety and apprehension, be- coming, too, more acute at every moment, when I suggested, as the only expedient likely to preserve our lives, the necessity of endea- vouring to conciliate the natives, by volunta- rily offering them, as presents, every article we had in the boat, which, at any rate, would have been shortly appropriated without our concurrence. Luckily, amongst other things were some gaudy-coloured handkerchiefs, which seemed to give great satisfaction, and were bestowed as a propitiatory oblation on some of the most ferocious-looking of the party. Our stores being at length exhausted, the promise of returning with a fresh supply, if permitted to go on board, alone induced them to sanction our departure for the vessel, which was safely anchored that same evening OCEANIC SKETCHES. 37 ! in the adjacent harbour of Newkehevah, where, finding the mission was established, we proceeded for a supply of water. Our appearance on shore the following day was greeted by a horde of savages, equally feroci- ous in aspect as those we had just left, and amidst whose discordant yells and reiterated exclamations, we with some difficulty suc- ceeded in reaching the dwellings of Messrs. Parker, Armstrong, and Alexander, who, with their wives and families, had lately arrived from the United States. These gentlemen in- formed us, that all their endeavours had hitherto proved futile to effect even the slightest change, either in the habits or de- meanour of these barbarous and incorrigible. people, who, existing in the most degraded state, practise every vice of which uncivilized man is capable. Here cannibalism and hu- man sacrifices prevail under their most appall- ing forms; and it was not without a shudder we learnt, that very recently several sailors 38 OCEANIC SKETCHES. had fallen victims to this revolting propensity, two of whom had actually met their fearful doom at Tipie Bay, the scene of our danger, and, we might truly say, Providential escape. : Amongst the many barriers to Missionary success in these islands, the absence of a mo- narch, or head-chief, whose support and pro- tection might be available to the cause and its promoters, appears to be the principal ob- stacle. For although the title of king is con- ferred on one of the tribe, his power is all but nominal, as each individual arrogates to him- self an equal share of authority; and thus in savage, as in civilized life, anarchy, confusion, and violence, are ever found following the footsteps of insubordination. During my sojourn on this island, I was present at an address delivered by one of the Missionaries, on the Sabbath, to these de- graded people, who, habited in war costume, with beautiful caps made of birds' feathers, and their waists, necks, and legs encircled From a Sketch made on the spot. by T Nightingale Esg Ad by Cochrane & Co London, 1836 Marquesan Hut, at the Island of Newkihova. & E.Clark, feulp OCEANIC SKETCHES. 39 with shells, were assembled in greater num- bers than usual; but no symptom of attention or respect to the service in which they were engaged was visible, curiosity to see the white strangers being the true motive of their coming, as they scruple not to evince the utmost scorn for the new religion attempted to be introduced amongst them. Never did human nature present a more forcible picture of moral degradation, than is exhibited by the Marquesan islanders; sunk in the grossest natural depravity, inaccessible to the voice of reason or religion, both the presence and doc- trine of the Missionaries are alike incapable of producing the desired reformation. This fact, at the time I allude to, had become sufficiently apparent to the ministers themselves, and it was evident a much longer stay would be im- practicable, the abduction of their wives, and their own destruction, having been already threatened. To me it was a matter of as- tonishment, considering the ferocious and un- C S 40 OCEANIC SKETCHES. tractable disposition of the natives, how they had been able to make a settlement there at all. Yet it is this island, which the Reverend Mr. Stewart, in his Narrative of the South Seas, eulogises in such glowing terms. His representation, like an exquisitely-finished portrait, which, nevertheless, conveys no just idea of the features it professes to delineate, might pass current with those to whom the original is unknown, though by others its want of similitude must be instantly detected, and the artist's inaccuracy as promptly con- demned. Thus Mr. S.'s account of the Mar- quesas may be perused with pleasure as an interesting and amusing invention; but when related, and presented to the public as abso- lute fact, it cannot be too-highly censured for misleading the judgment of those who are un- able to ascertain its falsity. It is greatly to be lamented, that so elegantly-written a narrative should have been marred by the introduc- tion of fiction. To what imminent perils has OCEANIC SKETCHES. 41 not this departure from veracity exposed Mr. Stewart's own countrymen, who, rashly confiding in his reports, hesitated not, con- trary to the advice of the English Missiona- ries, to convey three young and delicate fe- males, with their helpless infants, to shores where outrages are wantonly and openly perpetrated, and from whose contaminating vicinity the least sensitive European would shrink with apprehension and disgust. To determine, however, the motive of Mr. Stew- art's publication, in conjunction with the visit of the Vincennes frigate, no great penetration is required, the whole machinery being evi- dently of political construction, as it is well- known our Transatlantic brethren have long desired to gain an entrance on some of the Pacific islands; and the notion of a republic, such as Newkehevah was represented, must have been more especially in unison with their national prejudices. Some strong incentive alone could have induced any writer to paint 42 OCEANIC SKETCHES. * ; in such brilliant colours the condition of this island; when a few hours' observation, by any unbiassed spectator, must have sufficed to dis- cover its inaccuracy. The blush of modesty so gallantly ascribed to the Marquesan women, together with other amiable qualities men- tioned by the too-indulgent author, might in vain be sought for, and assuredly never ex- isted but in his fertile imagination. How could he bestow such an appellation as the Happy Valley on a spot that might far more consistently be termed the retreat of murder, sensuality, and every species of abomination. I shall not any further notice the errors of this gentleman, but content myself with a general assertion of the incorrectness of his narrative. The countenances and aspects of these islanders, naturally handsome, are, from the means they take to disfigure themselves, ren- dered ferocious and forbidding beyond con- ception; and it is impossible not to remark the fine athletic figures and admirably pro- OCEANIC SKETCHES. 43 portioned limbs of the male sex, and the deli- cate and well-formed hands of the other. These truly constitute the only natural per- fections of a race in whose character there is so much for morality to shudder at, and hu- manity to mourn over. While at this island, I occasionally ven- tured, with my gun, a short distance from the beach, in order to procure some doves, of a green, white, and red plumage, which, al- though numerous, are difficult to, obtain, being in great request with the natives, whose war- dresses are composed of their beautiful fea- thers. That there are other species of birds in the interior, cannot be doubted, but as an excursion thither would unquestionably have terminated at the first morais, this knowledge was not positively attained. When on shore, one morning, I was much amused to observe a shoe, abstracted the day previously from my cabin, decorating the head of a native chief. This novel ornament, surmounted by a large SN 44 OCEANIC SKETCHES. banana-leaf, produced the most ludicrous ef- fect. Thieving may be reckoned amongst the most venial of Marquesan crimes; though, like every other evil propensity, here it is carried to excess. There is a fine and con- venient harbour at Newkehevah, sheltered on every side by mountains, the entrance of which, though rather narrow, presents no ob- stacle to the egress of vessels, as a light breeze blows from the land every morning, and thus renders their departure practicable. Near the beach is a supply of fresh-water, with abun- dance of bananas, cocoa-nuts, and bread-fruit, which form the principal food of the savages, when a more palatable repast on human flesh is not procurable. C I cannot close this sketch of Newkehevah, without adverting to a curious, though revolt- ing ceremony, which takes place there at the death of a king, or chief. Shortly before our arrival, one of these obsequies was celebrated, and the particulars were related to me by an OCEANIC SKETCHES. 45 eye-witness of the whole scene, which, on the occasion referred to, was acted in honour of the gods, upon the king's demise. This horrible rite is commenced by the immolation of a cer- tain number of individuals, to appease the supposed anger of the gods. Should these be obtainable at the different bays, with which this island abounds, and whose respective in- habitants are at constant warfare with each other, none of their own tribe are sacrificed; but, otherwise, the allotted complement must be supplied from amongst themselves. It is during the darkness and silence of night that these victims to a barbarous and fearful super- stition are entrapped. The light canoe, glid- ing stealthily through the water, conveys to the enemy's shores her dread freight of fierce and murderous beings, who, rushing into the tents of their slumbering foes, momentarily suspend over each a ponderous club,* and, at * Made from the ito, or iron-wood tree. UorM 46 OCEANIC SKETCHES. a preconcerted signal, aim the deadly blow; then, bearing away the bodies to the scene of their frightful orgies, fling them on a pile of stones erected for the purpose, where they are left to decay. The next act, in this most ex- traordinary and disgusting performance, pre- sents several men in warlike guise, their wrists and ankles bound with human hair, executing the war-dance before the deceased king's re- mains. To these succeed members of both sexes in a state of complete nudity, who, after singing and dancing for a considerable time, take sharp pieces of shell and inflict, on cer- tain parts of their bodies, deep wounds and incisions, from the effects of which death fre- quently ensues. The women belonging to the king's household remain constantly near the body, until it becomes thoroughly putrified, when his favorite wife scrapes all the flesh off the bones, and, enclosing them in a piece of cloth, made from the haper mulberry-tree, preserves these mortal relics in the dwelling Maou OCEANIC SKETCHES. 47 occupied by the king while living. Repeatedly, during the progress of decomposition, particles of the decaying body mingle with the food of the watchers who are seated underneath; but neither this, nor any other circumstance, in- duces them to move, as such a breach of re- spect, they believe, would arouse the im- placable vengeance of their gods. The Mis- sionaries told me that, so overpowering was the stench emitted from this filthy and ob- noxious ceremony, that they were obliged to remove their habitations in consequence. CHAPTER IV. CONTENTS. * SOCIETY Islands - Huahini-Mr. Barff, the English resident Missionary-I obtain an Apartment in the Queen Ma- sheira's Palace-Visit her Majesty-Late War between Huahini and Barabola-The Queen headed her Troops in Person-A Fact, attesting the good the Missionaries are working-The Scenery of Huahini particularly attractive -Native Huts-Christianity established-Idols no longer worshipped-Cannibalism completely eradicated-Trans- lation of the Bible into Tahitian-Recollections of Mahini, an old Native- His Address to the Meeting, as well as those of the Native Teacher and Mr. Loxton-Death of a Native Chief-His Trust in the Efficacy of revealed Re- ligion. M On the 23d of March, after a visit of eight days, we quitted the Marquesas, and the hor- rors of those polluted shores were gradually Maou From a Sketch made on the spot. T Nightingale Esq Want Pub by Cochrane CLendon. 1835 Interior of the Queen's House, at Huahine E. Clark Sculp OCEANIC SKETCHES. 49 obliterated in the contemplation of new and brighter scenes, which the variegated and beautiful landscapes of the Society Islands presented to my admiring view. I landed, on the 1st of April, at Huahini, the next in size and consideration to Otaheite, and, after bid- ding adieu to Captain F., the companion of many past months, took up my quarters at the dwelling of Mr. Barff, who, for nearly seventeen years, had resided as Missionary in this island, and was warmly and deservedly beloved by the numerous converts to his pure and holy faith. During my stay here, I con- tinued his guest, and received at all times, from himself and family, the most friendly and hos- pitable attention. Through this gentleman's influence, I obtained an apartment in the Queen Masheira's palace, (a large well-built house, situated on a pile of stones close to the water,) where I deposited my botanical and other specimens. On the morning after my arrival, accompanied by Mr. Barff, I paid a D 50 OCEANIC SKETCHES. 1 K visit to her majesty, who received me with much courtesy and kindness, though a great invalid since the late war with Barabola, whose people laid claim to the island. During the various engagements which took place, the queen, armed with a musket, headed the Huahineans in person, and her brave example. tended in a great measure to gain the victory. In one action she had a very narrow escape of being captured by the enemy, and was only saved by her husband, named Noo, a very in- telligent and interesting man, much attached to the queen, snatching her up in his arms, and carrying her to the rear. Her age, at present, is about fifty; she has a pleasing countenance, which bears evident marks of beauty when young, though now much altered by her recent illness. She always shewed me the utmost kindness, her house and attendants were at my service; and when I asked her, which I frequently did, if I might be allowed to make her some remuneration in return, she { OCEANIC SKETCHES. 51 invariably answered "No; you are a friend of Mr. Ellis, and that is sufficient." A few years ago Mr. E. was Missionary at Huahini. How much more does a simple fact like this tell in favour of the Missionaries, and the good they are working, than the most ingenious and elaborate arguments. The scenery at Huahini is particularly attrac- tive; its peaked mountains, resembling, in the delicacy of their jutting points, the most finished architectural adornments, clothed in bright verdure of varied shades, may be viewed rising gradually from the sea, till their lofty summits are lost amid the clouds. At the base of these stupendous heights are fertile and luxuriant valleys, intermingled with thick groves of bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees. Along the beach are seen the native huts, mostly covered with white plaster; and an occasional glimpse may be obtained, through the intervening foliage, of the neat and simple church,―emblem of that pure religion which D 2 52 OCEANIC SKETCHES. is now constantly preached to attentive con- gregations of those from whom the darkness of superstition and idolatry had once veiled it. The Society Islands no longer retain those practices, so disgraceful to humanity, de- scribed by the early navigators: no longer do we behold a concourse of armed men, drag- ging their conquered victim to sacrifice: no longer is heard, reverberating from hill to hill, the appalling and dissonant sound of the war- couch. The senseless images of wood and stone, worshipped through a series of by-gone ages, now lie mouldering in oblivion, while Christianity rears her meek and holy faith upon the ruins of ignorance and falsehood. Who, possessing one sentiment of philan- thropy, could gaze, uninfluenced by plea- surable emotions, on a numerous assembly of converted heathens, uniting in prayer and praise to the only true God, listening with rapt attention to the promise of salvation, the words of eternal life pronounced in the soft OCEANIC SKETCHES. 53 harmonious language of their own native isles; or could withhold his tribute of praise from the supporters of an Institution productive of such glorious results; or refuse to laud still more warmly the indefatigable zeal and cease- less exertions of those excellent men who, amidst dangers and hardships, have hitherto dispensed, and are yet labouring to spread more widely the light of truth and knowledge throughout these remote territories,-objects which the translation of the Bible into the Tahitian language, together with the forma- tion of schools for the instruction of youth of both sexes, tend greatly to facilitate. An anniversary meeting of the chiefs and elders of the Church is held to commemorate the adoption of Christianity, and, at the same time, to select native teachers to commence the work of conversion in other islands of the Pacific. At one of these interesting assem- blies in Huahini I happened to be present, and was especially attracted by the manner 54 OCEANIC SKETCHES. and appearance of the first speaker, an ancient venerable-looking warrior, the former king of that island, but who had abdicated some years in favour of his niece, Masheira. He perfectly remembered the landing of Captain Cook in 1777, and related many instances of inhu- manity committed by that ill-fated navigator, such as causing the ears of innocent persons, not concerned in the depredations on his pro- perty, to be cut off, when unable to detect the real delinquents. This, to say the least, was unjust, and ought, if only from policy, to have been avoided. Far be it from me to censure the memory of that brave and enterprising commander, over whose barbarous and un- timely death even the savage perpetrators of that ruthless deed have since shed tears of mingled penitence and regret. Mahine, for that was the name of the old man, now became a pattern of religious and moral worth, delivered with great animation, though occasionally his voice faltered with the OCEANIC SKETCHES. 55 tremulousness of age, a speech of which the following is a translation; "My people do with energy this good work-this is indeed a good work, a work of mercy, in which we can all unite, in which we become one in heart and labour; it was not so formerly in our heathen state; I hesitated not to kill you then for a slight offence, but the gospel in- spires us with another spirit, a spirit of love to God and to one another. Be thankful to God for the gospel, and manifest your thank- fullness by liberal contributions to this society, that islands, which are now as miserable as we once were, may become, through the bless- ing of God and the gospel, as happy as we are now." Taiete, afterwards sent as teacher to the Navigator Islands, next spoke. "The subscriptions of which I have read the list, are from our school, a tribute of com- passion to the poor children of the heathen; my labours in this school end, but those of 56 OCEANIC SKETCHES. you that continue at home, do not neglect our children. You know rotten fire-wood will not make the stove hot, but good fire-wood will; let your exertions resemble the sound fire-wood, warm and vigorous, then God will not fail to bless your labours both at home and abroad. Paul says, he that soweth sparingly shall reap sparingly. Give cheer- fully of your little property, that the gospel may flourish abundantly.” This address was succeeded by a very appro- priate one from Mr. Loxton, lately appointed to the island of Ulitea. "It is highly interesting, my Christian friends, to find that the gospel excites such lively interest among you. A congregation so large, so suddenly collected for such a great object, forms a pleasing contrast to what you once were. There is as great a distinction between your past and present condition, as there is between the Gods you then bowed down to, and the ever-blessed God whom you OCEANIC SKETCHES. 57 now adore. Those were altogether vile and polluted, but this is the essence of truth, holi- ness, and love: and is it not the spirit of love received from him that has brought us here to day? an object like that we have in view calls for patience and perseverance, and God will not fail to give the blessing. To urge upon others the religion we have experienced to be precious to our own souls, is a most delightful task. Many have gone out from amongst the heathen, and have been blessed in their labours. Ever remember, God is looking down upon us; he hears all, sees all, and loves and approves the work of mercy. Be holy, be kind, be compassionate, and you will be happy, be followers of God and imita- tors of Jesus Christ." At the earnest request of Mr. Barff, I also expressed to the multitude the interest I felt in the great cause they were met to comme- morate and promote. On the day following I attended the death- D 5 58 OCEANIC SKETCHES. bed of a young chief who was expiring from the effects of a mortification in the leg, his wife and family having strenuously objected to amputation. The sick couch was sur- rounded by several natives earnestly engaged in prayers. When these were finished, Mr. Barff informed the sufferer that life was fast ebbing to its close. He appeared perfectly resigned, extending his hand to all around him, and exclaimed in the laconic style pecu- liar to the South Sea Islanders, "If it is or- dained, be it so;" while a smile of Christian triumph, beaming with hopes of an inheri- tance beyond the grave, that would eclipse even the brightness of his own ocean isle, flitted like a meteor across the features of the dying man. A scene like this would have done honour to a land, where the precepts of the gospel had been for centuries inculcated! 1 CHAPTER V. CONTENTS. Departure of Mr. Barff and Myself- Affection shewn by the Islanders to Mr. B.-Ulitea, natural Characteristics similar to those of Huatini-Its social Condition much inferior-Visit the Harvey Islands-Rarotonga the prin- cipal-Delightful Residence of Messrs. Buzacott and Simp- son-The Romantic Beauty of the Scenery-My Excur- sions in the Island-Continually followed by Crowds of the Natives-Insects-Birds-The Chiefs send Parties into the Mountains for their Plumage-Accompany Mr. Buzacott to Church - Another Instance of the kindly Feeling of the Natives to the Missionaries-Anecdote relative to their former barbarous Condition-No Anchorage for Vessels- Pasturage extremely rich-Cattle thrive here well-Wy- lotache. SHORTLY after the meeting recorded in the last chapter, Mr. Barff being about to visit some of the distant Leeward Islands, where 60 OCEANIC SKETCHES. native Missionaries had been previously esta- blished, invited me to accompany him, an opportunity of which I gladly availed myself, preparations were speedily made for the fur- therance of this interesting expedition. No sooner was it known that Mr. B. was about to depart, than his residence was thronged by natives of both sexes, who came to take leave of their respected Missionary. Even the blind, led by their relatives, kissing his hands and feet, prayed with tears for his safe return. On the 2d of May our party, consisting of Mr. and Mrs. B. and family, with Mr. and Mrs. Loxton, embarked on board a small schooner of sixty tons, and the same evening landed at Ulitea, the destination of the new Missionary and his wife. This island so closely resembles, in scenery and natural pro- ductions, the one we had just left, that the same description may with equal truth be applied to both. The social condition, how- ever, of Ulitea is far inferior to that of Hua- * OCEANIC SKETCHES. 61 hini, as the people seem to be gradually relap- sing into their original dissolute habits, an evil partly attributable to the late war with Borabola, a neighbouring island, and also to the fact, that they have been without a resi- dent missionary since the departure of Mr. Williams for England. May 5th we again set sail, and bidding a temporary adieu to the Society Islands, reached Rarotonga, the prin- cipal of the Harvey Group. The beach was crowded with people eagerly awaiting our arrival, all anxious to touch the hands of the White Chief, (the appellation by which I was known amongst them.) Messrs. Buzacott and Simpson, the Missionaries here respec- tively stationed on the eastern and western sides of the island, have delightful residences built in the English style, adorned in front with trelliced veranders, and environed by well-cultivated gardens filled with pine-apples and other fruit. Rarotonga has been justly deemed the Queen of the South Sea Isles, 62 OCEANIC SKETCHES. and is pre-eminent in natural attractions. While it resembles, in some respects, those that are grouped around it, it also possesses features distinct from any I elsewhere observed. The mountainous and rocky heights there made a remarkably romantic appearance. Broken into a thousand fantastic shapes, it scarcely required the aid of imagination to convert them into the ruins of ancient for- tresses or gothic castles, while round their bases extended several miles of table land, planted at right angles with shady walks, on each side of which flourished the Cocoa-nut, Banana, Papaw, and Te trees. Often, whilst wandering along these sheltered avenues, and occasionally glancing through the interstices of the foliage at the beautiful landscape be- yond, has it seemed to me the realization of some bright vision or poetic dream, so tran- quil, so imposing in its mute magnificence was the fairy-like aspect of this romantic isle. The native cottages here are remarkable for 著 ​From a Shetek made on the spot by Nightingale Eng DO AZIN Pub by Cochrane & CLondon 1835. Misionary House at Guatagnia ? E. Clark, foup OCEANIC SKETCHES. 63 their clean and neat appearance, and it is with sentiments of the most pleasurable description I recall the recollection of my sojourn amid scenes so replete with beauty, where, at the same time that Nature was shedding her rich- est gifts in unrestrained profusion, I was ex- periencing many of the comforts of a Euro- pean life. ROGR Here I commenced my entomological re- searches, to the great amusement of the natives, who at first imagined I caught the butterflies for food. Their curiosity was unbounded, and often proved a great source of annoyance, as I was frequently followed, during these excur- sions, by three or four hundred persons, and no sooner was one crowd dispersed at the insti- gation of their chief, to whom I occasionally appealed, than another party, equally formida ble, arose to attend me, and to observe the progress of my novel, and, to them, most extraordinary avocation. The only insects, that deserve particular mention, are a species 64 OCEANIC SKETCHES. belonging to the family of the walking stick insects, which are SO numerous in certain seasons, and commit such ravages among the cocoa-nut trees, (which form the chief food of the natives,) that every means are taken to destroy them. There are very few birds to be found in this island. I have often wandered for three suc- cessive days without seeing one. This dearth of the feathered tribe is to be attributed to the natives having at a former period destroyed them in great numbers, for the sake of their plumage. A chief would frequently send his people for three months into the mountains, with no other object than to procure supplies of feathers. In the absence of fire-arms they had recourse to the stratagem of imitating their notes, which, I have heard, they did with surprising fidelity. This constant system of extermination has evidently rendered ex- tinct many species of birds, not here alone, but amongst all the South Sea Islands which OCEANIC SKETCHES. 65 I visited, the Navigators excepted, where this custom did not prevail. On the Sunday after I arrived I accom- panied Mr. and Mrs. Buzacott to church, where Mr. Barff preached in Tahitian, from the lx. chapter of Isaiah and 12th verse, to a congregation of at least three thousand per- sons, all, to my great surprise, habited in black cloth, made from the Paper Mulberry- tree. Upon enquiring the reason of this unusual and dismal attire, I was informed by Mr. Buzacott, that, on the recent death of his little girl, the king and chiefs requested that they and their people might be permitted to wear mourning, as they did not wish to appear in their ordinary gay habilements, while the families of their Missionary were in affliction. Such an instance of delicate respect might vainly be sought for amongst nations boast- ing more refinement. That it should be found here may well excite astonishment, when it is remembered that only ten years have