A 64891 3

1
HENRY PERKINS
BOOKSELLER
N 159 Chestnut Street
PHILADELPHIA.
DEO REIPUBLICA ET AMICIS
ESTO SEMPER FIDELIS
GeoDuffele
Tappan Presbyterian Association
LIBRARY.
Presented by HON. D. BETHUNE DUFFIELD,
From Library of Rev. Geo. Duffield, D.D.
“DEO REIPUBLICÆ ET AMICIS
Gorge Duffield A. M
In tali nunquam lassat venatio sylva.
A.D.1884.
DS
507
G94

THE
JOURNAL OF TWO VOYAGES
1
ALONG THE
COAST OF CHINA,
IN 1831, & 1832;
THE FIRST IN A CHINESE JUNK;
THE SECOND IN THE BRITISH SHIP LORD AMHERST:
WITH NOTICES OF
SIAM, COREA, AND THE LOO-CHOO ISLANDS;
AND REMARKS ON THE
POLICY, RELIGION, ETC., OF CHINA.
BY CHARLES GUTZLAFF.
NEW YORK:
PUBLISHED BY JOHN P. HAVEN,
No. 148 Nassau Street.
M DCCC XXXIII.
DS
507
.694
Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1833, by
JOHN P. HAVEN,
in the Clerk's office of the District Court of the United States, for the
Southern District of New York.
SLEIGHT & VAN NORDEN, PRINT.
gift
Fappon Pust. Ass
4-9-1932
ADVERTISEMENT.
THE REV. CHARLES GUTZLAFF is a native of Stet-
tin, in Prussia, who, about seven years ago, left his
home, and the most inviting prospects of even royal
patronage, to commence the labors of a missionary
in Eastern Asia. He has made himself completely
familiar with the Chinese manners, dialects, and
literature; and his medical skill is another passport
to the favor of the people. The Journals now pub-
lished will furnish the history of his labors in Siam
and China. We have greatly overvalued the con-
tents of this volume, if it can be read without a
thrilling interest in the author's personal adventures,
and an earnest desire for the success of his truly
apostolic efforts.
The Journal of the first voyage has been before
printed in the "Chinese Repository" at Canton.
The other contents of the volume are now for the
first time published. The reader will perhaps disco-
iv
ADVERTISEMENT.
ver a few foreign idioms: the difficulty of printing
correctly from manuscripts, without the author's
supervision, must be the apology for other errors.
The reader will observe that the voyage of the
"Lord Amherst" was undertaken for commercial
purposes, under the direction of the English East
India Company; but Mr. Gutzlaff enjoyed every
facility for imparting religious instruction. The
latest information from Mr. Gutzlaff was, that he
had departed from Macao on a third voyage, with
the hope of reaching the court of Peking before his
return.
He went to Eastern Asia under the patronage of
the Netherlands Missionary Society; but his ex-
penses have been chiefly defrayed from his own
property. A few English and American friends
have, however, been allowed to share in his good
work by their contributions to supply him with books
and medicines for distribution and use in China.
To aid his further efforts, any profits which may ac-
crue from the publication of this volume will be
sacredly devoted.
After making great allowances for all the exagge
rations of national vanity, and for the possible errors
of the methods of enumeration, we are undoubtedly
correct in assigning to China at least one third of
ADVERTISEMENT.
the whole population of our globe. The introduc-
tion of Christian truth into that immense empire is
indeed an object worthy the zeal of apostles and
martyrs !
The following letter from Mr. Gutzlaff to the Se-
cretary of the British and Foreign Bible Society is
a concise summary of his labors, and an appropriate
conclusion to this introductory notice.
Macao, Sept. 24, 1832.
"I NEVER before addressed the Society; yet under
the present circumstances it will be pardonable.
You heard of my stay in Siam, and the completion
of the translation of the New Testament: since
that, the Lord has opened a great door for the dis-
semination of his holy word in China.
During the greater part of the last year, I visited,
in a junk, the maritime provinces of the Chinese
empire; viz. Canton, Fo-chan, Chang-tong in Pil-
che-le, and Mantchou Tartary; and made a begin-
ning with the distribution of the word of life. I
entered afterwards into the service of the honorable
East-India Company, and revisited Canton, Fo-chan,
and Chang-tong; saw Che-keang, and Keang-nan;
went over to Corea; and imparted the word of eter-
nal life also to some Japanese, whom we met at Loo-
VI
ADVERTISEMENT.
choo, in the harbor of Napa-keang. It will be gra-
tifying to you, when you hear that our Bibles and
Tracts have created a great sensation in the Chinese
empire. Wei, the Deputy Governor of Fo-chan and
Che-keang, sent a copy of the Scripture Lessons and
our principal Tracts to the emperor, and recom-
mended him very earnestly to have the doctrines
duly examined.
I had the pleasure of presenting his majesty, the
king of Corea, with a copy of the bible: he refused
to accept it, but may have repented of it: but if even
this was not the case, his officers have received these
inestimable treasures, and the word of God will gain
a footing in Corea. I entertain the same hopes of
Loo-choo, where a great many Bibles and Tracts
were scattered amongst all classes: and as I ought
to have the faith of a mustard-seed, I humbly hope
that the word of God which we gave to the Japanese
will bring forth fruits in abundance. In China, no
remark was made upon the free distribution of the
Gospel there was no open interference of the gov
ernment, neither has the emperor expressed his dis-
pleasure. Thus I consider this empire more acces-
sible than many other heathen countries; and you
will not wonder at my going to make a third trial.
I know very well the risk I run; but also the Lord's
ADVERTISEMENT.
vii
saying, "He that loses his life for me shall find it.”
Should I doubt to embark in the most dangerous
undertaking, as long as the mighty Saviour opens
the door, which nobody can shut?
In faith on Him, who has begun the glorious
work, I may say, that we very soon shall want
about 10,000 copies of the New Testament, for dis-
tribution in Cochin-China, Tonquin, Hainan, Mari-
time China, Mantchou Tartary, Corea, Satsuma, and
Loo-choo. Please to give me some account of the
Mantchou Translation, of which I have seen the
Gospel of Matthew.
I deeply regret that the Indo-Chinese Transla-
tions are not yet printed; but as we wish to visit
some parts of Eastern Siam and Cambodia, we shall
try to get at least one Gospel printed, in order to
make a feeble beginning in both the Siamese and
Cambodian.
I humbly recommend this work to your special
prayer. Oh that China might live before God!-
that that hateful prejudice of Christians, that nothing
can be done in China itself, might vanish!-that
God might reveal His glory!"
New York, August, 1833.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
INTRODUCTION.
INTERCOURSE WITH CHINA.
Exclusive system unnatural and unjust-Exclusion of Christianity
-Prejudice against foreigners, and its causes-Early civilization
of China-Population-Literature-Disputes with foreigners-
Foreign embassies to China-False estimate of the government,
and of the morals of the people-Catholic missions-The grounds
of hope for China
page 1
JOURNAL OF A RESIDENCE IN SIAM, AND OF
THE FIRST VOYAGE.
CHAPTER I.—Missionary labors in Siam-Encouragements
and obstacles-Royal family-Native Christians-Chinese re-
sidents-Peguans-Burman slaves-Malays-Moors-Laos-
Cambojans-Cochin-China-Catholic missions-Trade-Chi-
nese Junks-Idolatrous rites-Missions to China
page 19
CHAPTER II.-Departure from Bankok-
-Departure from Bankok-Passengers-
Voyage-Teen-fung-Hainan-Namoh-Amoy-Formosa--
Ting-hae-Temple of Ma-tsoo-po-Leto-Chinese notions of
Europe-River Pei-ho-Ta-koo
page 55
CHAPTER III.-Teen-tsin-Residence there-Medical prac-
tice-Trade-Government-People-Departure from Teen-tsin
-Kin-chow-Voyage to Macao.
page 104
X
CONTENTS.
JOURNAL OF THE SECOND VOYAGE.
CHAPTER I. -Objects of the expedition-Departure from
Macao-Priest of Budha-Ma-kung-Bay of Kea-tsze-War-
junks--Salt works--Shin-tseuen--Kang-lae--Emigration-
Ting-hae-Liberality of emigrants-Nan-aou-Pirates p. 1251
CHAPTER II.—Amoy-Destruction of female children--
Difficulties-Imperial edict-Treatment of the friendly natives-
Conference-People-Pang-hoo islands
page 141
CHAPTER III.-Formosa--Dutch missions--Wan-gan--
Chin-tan-Harbor of Fuh-chow-City-Books sent to the em-
peror-War-junks-Mohammedans-Medical labors-Rice-
Native Christians-Departure from Fuh-chow
•
page 163
CHAPTER IV.—Fishermen-Arrival at Ning-po-Prohibition
of trade-Conferences with mandarins-Departure-Kin-
tang
page 193
CHAPTER V.—The Yang-tsze-keang river-Shang-hae-
Forts-Army and navy-Tsung-ming-Return to Shang-hae-
Lew-kung-taou
page 223
CHAPTER VI.-Corea-General sketch-First meeting with
natives-Their barbarism--Gan-keang-Further intercourse
with natives-Books and presents to the king-Mandarins from
the court-Refusal of permission to trade-Ouelpoert page 255
CHAPTER VII.-Loo-choo-Napa-keang-Mandarins-
Language-Japanese junk-Distribution of books-Reverence
for the dead-Loo-choo physician-Manners of the people-
Return to Macao.
page 288
CONTENTS.
xi
RELIGIONS OF CHINA.
Patriarchal religion--Confucius--Taouism--Budhism--Grand
Lama-Festivals-Worship of the dead-Condition of the fe-
males-General apathy-Misrepresentations of certain writers
-Jews-Mohammedans
page 299
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA.
Nestorians-Mongul conquests-Catholic missions—Jesuits-
Xavier-Ricci-Female proselytes-Quarrels between the Ca-
tholic orders-Schaal-Tartar conquests-Verbiest-Disputes
between Jesuits and Dominicans-Death of Kang-he-Perse-
cutions by succeeding emperors-Taou-kwang-Protestant
missions
page 315
INTRODUCTION.
INTERCOURSE WITH CHINA.
THE system of excluding foreigners from all in-
tercourse with China, has often been extolled as
the greatest proof of wisdom in her rulers; but, upon
a nearer investigation, it will be found that nothing is
more at variance with sound policy than this unna-
tural law of restriction.
All mankind are created and upheld by the same
God, descended from the same parents, subject to the
same changes, are living under the same canopy of
heaven, upon the same planet, and therefore have a
natural right to claim fellowship.* The refusal of
it is a transgression of the divine law of benevolence,
which is equally binding upon all the nations of the
earth. Savages might better be excused for seclud-
ing themselves from other nations, since the loss
must be chiefly their own; but a people, like the
Chinese, acquainted with letters, endowed with in-
* An emperor of China, in 1300, before the Tartar Conquest, sent an
embassy to Japan for the sake of cultivating an amicable intercourse.
In his letter he said,-" The sages considered the whole world as one
family; but if all the members have not a friendly intercourse, how
can it be said, that the principle of one family is maintained?" Pub,
1
N
INTERCOURSE WITH CHINA.
telligence, and boasting of a civilization superior to
that of any other nation, cannot do the same without
injury to others, as well as themselves.
(
The most deplorable consequence of this unsocial
system is, that the worship of the only living and
true God has been thereby excluded from this vast
empire. Whilst all nature proclaims an Almighty
Creator and Preserver, the sons of China worship.
the work of their own hands. Peace is proclaimed
between God and men, through the mediation of
Jesus Christ, the Saviour, not of any favored nation,
but of the world;' but China has not welcomed
these 'glad tidings.' Although she once despatched
embassadors to India to inquire into the doctrines of
Budhism, she has never been equally anxious to
possess the divine revelation, or to examine it when
brought to her doors. It may perhaps be said in ex-
cuse for the Chinese, that the true Gospel was for-
merly purposely withheld from them, whilst they
were offered, in its stead, only the frivolous legends
of a spurious Christianity. Protestant Christians
are indeed chargeable with guilt in having so long
neglected to send the Gospel to them; but we confi-
dently hope, that, when an opportunity is offered
to introduce it, and they are found willing to receive
it, Christians will no longer be slow to give them the
word of life.
Perhaps it will be said, that all attempts to remove
the barriers to intercourse with China have hitherto
proved abortive, and will be so in future. The for-
mer is partly true, the latter remains to be proved.
INTERCOURSE WITH CHINA.
3
It may be interesting to inquire, what causes have
operated so powerfully as to defeat all past attempts
to establish mutual intercourse?
It is remarkable that all the nations which use the
Chinese written character, harbor the same preju-
dices against foreigners. By means of this written.
language they have been united for ages under
similar laws, institutions, and religion. Hence they
have formed one great family, quite distinct from
other nations, in all points of national peculiarity.*
As they enjoyed the privileges of civilization at an
early period, while the adjoining nations were living
in barbarism, they learned to look down upon them
with contempt, and in all collisions with them, to
treat them, if inferior, as vanquished enemies, or if
superior, as savage intruders. By sedulously shun-
ning any intercourse with the barbarians,' the
opinion of their ferocity and depravity, which the
Chinese had first imbibed, continued to be cherished
through ignorance of its objects and settled prejudice.
This general contempt was increased also by the
"
"The Chinese language," says Dr. Morrison, "is read from the
borders of Russia on the North, throughout Chinese Tartary on the
West, and in the East as far as Kamschatka; and downwards
through Corea and Japan; in the Loo-Choo Islands, Cochin-China,
and the islands of that Archipelago, on most of which are Chinese
settlers, till you come down to the equinoctial line at Penang, Ma-
lacca, Singapore, and even beyond it, on Java. Throughout all these
regions, however dialects may differ, and oral languages be con-
founded, the Chinese written language is understood by all. The
voyager, the merchant, and the traveller, as well as the Christian
missionary, if he can write Chinese, may make himself understood
throughout the whole of Eastern Asia." Pub.
INTERCOURSE WITH CHINA.
consciousness that they were the most numerous of
the nations of the world.* The fact is certainly true,
but not so the conclusion which they derive from it,
that their country was the most extensive of all.
Fancying the earth to be a square, they assumed to
* There have been many conflicting opinions as to the population
of China. The number of 333,000,000, reported to Lord Macart-
ney, has generally been considered an absurd exaggeration. It is
at the high rate of 257 persons for each square mile. Malte-Brun
gives 150,000,000 as the estimate of all "cool and impartial men."
The editors of the British Almanac give 170,000,000. But if any
credit is to be given to Chinese official documents, addressed to their
own officers and people, the weight of evidence is decidedly in favor
of the largest number. In the collection of the Statutes of the Em-
pire, of which the latest edition was published at Peking in 1825,
there is contained a proclamation of the Emperor Keen-lung, in
1793, calling upon all ranks and conditions of men to economise
the gifts of heaven, food, &c., and by industry to increase their
quantity; assigning as the reason his fear lest the population by its
rapid increase, should soon exceed the means of subsistence. He
states, as the occasion of the proclamation, that the amount of the
population, according to returns sent from all the provinces, the
year previous, was 307,467,200. The same work contains the
particulars of another census taken in 1813, amounting to 361,693,-
879, to which are to be added 188,326 families in certain provinces,
the individuals of which were not enumerated. Allowing an ave-
rage of four members to each of these families, the grand total of the
population would be 362,447,183. "This statement," says the editor
of the Anglo-Chinese Kalendar, "will probably serve to set at rest
the numerous speculations concerning the real amount of the popu-
lation of China. We know, from several authorities, that in China
the people are in the habit of diminishing rather than increasing
their numbers, in their reports to government. And it is unreason-
able to suppose that, in a work published by the government, not
for the information of curious inquirers, but for the use of its own
officers, the numbers so reported by the people should be more than
doubled, as the statements of some European speculators would
require us to believe," Pub.
INTERCOURSE WITH CHINA.
5
themselves the main land in the centre, and allowed
to the other nations the small and remote clusters of
islands, in various directions around themselves.
How could they look upon the poor inhabitants of
those scattered lands otherwise than with the utmost
contempt! The sovereign of so great a nation,
also, regarding himself as the sole potentate of earth
and the vicegerent of heaven, claimed the universal
dominion over all the lands and the four seas. Their
princes, he considered his vassals and tributaries.
He slighted them when he pleased, viewing them
merely as the petty chiefs of barbarous tribes; yet,
with much compassion, he occasionally condescended
to receive their embassies. Though the modern im-
provements in navigation, the progress in the science
of geography and in general information, have par-
tially rectified their opinions on this subject, yet they
are too proud to confess the fact of their national
ignorance; to this moment they claim the title of
"the flowery middle kingdom," and would have all
the princes of the earth humbly do them homage.
We still hear the same old stories about the "four
seas" repeated, and maps of the world may be met
with, which so represent it still. So long as the pub-
lic opinion is swayed by such notions, we cannot
expect foreigners to be held in any just estimation
among them. Those petty nations which use the
Chinese written character, and acknowledge their
vassalage to the Celestial Empire, imitate them also
in all the arrogance of national vanity.
Another cause operating to favor the same system
1*
6
INTERCOURSE WITH CHINA.
of restriction, exists in their literature. The Chinese
are much attached to their own literature, and are
therefore prepared highly to value any degree of
eminence in this department. But foreigners are
not often acquainted with their literary productions,
and having scarcely any thing else which in the es-
timation of a Chinese, entitles them to rank among
the "literati," they are together regarded as ignorant
barbarians. Proud of their own observance of the
rules of propriety and justice, the Chinese are also
taught by their classical authors to look down upon
these barbarians as rude and fraudulent, and to
esteem any friendly intercourse contaminating.
"These barbarians," they are told, "have never felt
the transforming influence of the Celestial Empire,
and though they may therefore be pitied, yet much
more do they call for our contempt. Drive them
away, banish them from the empire."
Chinese policy.
This is true
To increase and perpetuate this contempt of fo-
reigners, various methods have been adopted by the
government, and with various degrees of success.
They know, though reluctant to admit it, that some
barbarians are more warlike than themselves, that
they have made extensive conquests in their vicinity,
and that in the event of a war with them, they them-
selves would be an unequal match for them. This
has led them to regard these nations with constant
suspicion. But to conceal from the people their fear
of the superiority of Europeans, they are accustomed
to stigmatize their characters as infamous, and in
INTERCOURSE WITH CHINA.
7
their intercourse with them, to substitute violence and
cunning for principle and candor. I am firmly per-
suaded that government would, were it possible, re-
duce all European residents and visitants to the same
state of humiliation which the Dutch endure at
Japan.
It must, however, be acknowledged, that Europeans
have frequently, by petty aggressions, provoked the
Chinese to carry their laws of exclusion into the most
rigorous execution. We have cause to regret that
they have never been so successful in re-establishing
friendly intercourse, as unfortunate in giving occasion
for stopping it.
As in the instances where actual force was used
to decide disputed claims, the Chinese have generally
proved inferior, they have become desirous to avoid
any resort to physical strength. Instead of spilling
blood, they prefer to spill ink, and have proved to the
world that China is invincible in a paper war. Like
the anathemas of the Papal See, fulminating edicts
have been invariably issued on such occasions, against
intruding foreigners. These edicts are in general
very specious, and would persuade a European un-
acquainted with the case, to believe that the Chinese
have justice on their side. Their threats are intimi-
dating, and their commands almost irresistible, but
here they stop: for the intruder either yields and re-
traces his steps, or if not, the Chinese is too wise to
let matters come to the extremity of force, where he
is as sure of defeat, as he is certain of victory in a
pitched battle of words.
INTERCOURSE WITH CHINA.
The continual collision of the foreign mercantile
establishments at Canton, with the Chinese authori-
ties, has occasioned great surprise to persons but
slightly acquainted with the native character. The
most severe animadversions also have been called
forth from capitalists who have suffered loss, and who
have not been on the ground to judge of the case.
But so long as the prejudice against foreigners is
cherished, there must be contests; on the one part,
to maintain old privileges, ameliorate their present
condition, and extend the trade, and on the other,
to retrench the liberties and enforce the exclusion of
strangers. The experience of centuries has taught
Europeans that the Chinese authorities will heap in-
sult on insult upon them, when it can be done with
impunity to themselves and their interests. But
when an opponent supports his argument with physi-
cal force, or their interest demands it, they can be
crouching, gentle, and even kind. This peculiarity
of national character, so very unlike our own, has
been prolific in mutual evils.
It has exhibited the measures taken by the Euro-
pean residents to redress their grievances, in a light
the most unfavorable by contrast with their own
plausible and forbearing deportment. While we do
not forget the long catalogue of petty annoyances
from the Chinese authorities, which the Europeans
have suffered from the first arrival of the Portuguese
to this day; we regret that the possession of the Gos-
pel has not taught Europeans more forbearance and
long suffering. Had these been oftener practised on
INTERCOURSE WITH CHINA.
9
suitable occasions, we should have had fewer causes
of complaint against the Chinese. But it is not
strange, that Europeans, destitute of the spirit of
Christian meekness, on coming to this country, and
finding themselves treated as barbarians by a nation
so evidently below them in civilization, should feel
their indignation roused, and should retaliate inso-
lence for insolence and dislike for hatred. Thus the
line of separation became broader and broader.
Governmental proclamations, detailing the infamous
conduct of barbarians, have been repeatedly posted
up at Canton. Foreigners have wisely taken no no-
tice of them, but the minds of the people have been
thus imbued with strong antipathy against such
worthless barbarians. Thus the authorities gained
their point, for the aversion to foreigners thus excited
and cherished, was the best precaution against form-
ing too close a friendship with them. The writer
has often heard the natives rehearse these accusa-
tions with self gratulation at their own superiority.
Thus every event has contributed to widen the
breach between foreign nations and the Chinese. In
vain have embassies been tried to conciliate their
favor; no presents have been withheld, no trouble
spared, in order to bring about a friendly intercourse.
An explanation of these failures will be found in the
above remarks on the general spirit of the nation and
the policy of its rulers. The Portuguese, who were
the first of the European nations to lead the way to
China, had frequent opportunities and causes to soli-
cit the imperial favor. In 1520, a Portuguese em-
10
INTERCOURSE WITH CHINA.
bassador to the Court of Peking, was sent back with-
out having gained any advantage, and eventually,
on account of the jealousy caused by their conquests
in India, imprisoned and slain.* In 1667, they
sent an embassador to Kang-he, the reigning em-
peror this was repeated during the reign of Yung-
Ching. They were treated as Chinese vassals, but
enjoyed more liberty than any natives during their
residence at Peking. The Dutch, from the first, had
attempted negotiation with China; but only their
conquests in its neighborhood effected the opening
of their trade. To establish it on a permanent basis
they sent an embassy to Kang-he, in 1655. This
was very graciously received by the young sovereign,
who had a clear conviction of European superiority;
yet he was unable to stem the torrent of opposing
prejudice against foreigners, and could therefore only
grant a few inconsiderable privileges, which by no
means effected a reciprocal intercourse.
The present relations of the British with China,
make a definite treaty of trade highly desirable.
Much might have been accomplished by a well-
conducted embassy to Peking, near the close of
the last century, and with a sovereign like Keen-lung,
had not the old custom of national exclusion operated
too strongly against them. The Dutch, supposing
the failure of this English embassy in 1793, chiefly
ascribable to the unyielding spirit of the embassa-
dor, enjoined upon the deputation which they soon
* Chinese Repository.
INTERCOURSE WITH CHINA.
11
afterwards sent, implicit submission to every pre-
scribed ceremony, however, humiliating. The conse-
quence was, that while the former had been dismissed
honorably, the latter were despised. For it is a Chi-
nese maxim to trample on the voluntarily submissive
and abject, while they respect firmness and decision.
A second embassador from his British majesty, in
1816, encountered still greater difficulties and had
less success than the first. These fruitless embassies
will teach the sovereigns either to attempt no nego-
tiations at all, or to propose them in a different state
of affairs. For there are two grand obstacles: the
pretension of China to supremacy over all the na-
tions of the world, and her dread of every superior
power. Add to this the want of veracity prevalent in
all the departments of her government, the igno-
rance on subjects of general knowledge, and their
bigoted adherence to unfounded opinions; and we
shall the less blame the embassadors for the failure
of missions, in which there was scarcely a possibility
of success.
That class of persons who form their opinions.
from the Chinese writings, and regard the nation.
with that obsolete admiration which was once so
fashionable, will rejoice that the government has per-
severed in the exclusion of strangers, or has so cir-
cumscribed their intercourse as to render it harmless.
"This wise policy," they say, "has preserved from
ruin and change, the excellent laws and customs
of this ancient empire: the patriarchal institutions
which have the sanction of ages are still existing
12
INTERCOURSE WITH CHINA.
there and while the other countries of the world
are agitated by war, China enjoys the enviable bless-
ings of peace and plenty. The unwarrantable at-
tempts of foreigners first to gain an intercourse, and
then to subvert the existing laws, the Chinese have
justly repelled. These strangers should be thankful
for the privileges granted them merely by Chinese
humanity; they should praise and obey those laws
which secure the happiness of more than three
hundred millions of people. All attempts at changes
should be promptly repelled; otherwise China would
soon be in the present servile condition of Hindos-
tan internal wars fermented by foreign influence,
would desolate the country and destroy the indus-
trious inhabitants, or reduce them to starvation."
These reasonings are as specious as the Chinese
writings on national prosperity: for the sake of suf
fering humanity, we wish they were verified by facts.
Notwithstanding their utmost precautions, the Chi-
nese have repeatedly fallen under a foreign power.
And even at the present time, they are subject to the
chief of a Tartar horde. Had Europeans designed
their conquest, and had they succeeded in their design,
still the condition of China would not have been so
abject a slavery as at present. Look at the civil and
religious rights enjoyed in Hindostan, the rapid pro-
gress there made in science, and the knowledge of
divine truth, and then see China; China! never in
advance, but always in retrograde movement, groan-
ing under arbitrary rule, doomed to perpetual seclu-
༩.
INTERCOURSE WITH CHINA.
13
sion from the world, from its interests, its sympathies,
and its progressive illumination.
We fully accord to many political institutions and
laws of the "Celestial Empire," the praise of high
excellence in theory, and of practical utility during
ages of trial. We grant that the government which
has kept so many millions of subjects comparatively
quiet, cannot be devoid of some principles of sound
policy. At the same time, many of their laws are
far from being praiseworthy; some impracticable, be-
cause not adapted to the actual state of human na-
ture; so numerous also and strict, that it is impos-
sible to be a subject and not a transgressor. Hence
the relaxation of punishment, hence the introduction
of bribery with all its concomitant evils.
The patriarchal institutions exist only on paper,
and the paternal exhortations are similar to the ad-
dresses of the inquisitors to the
when delivering them a victim.
temporal judges,
Happily there are
To talk of the con-
a few exceptions to this mode of administering “jus-
tice;" but they are very rare.
stant peace of an empire where rebellion is frequently
breaking forth, is denying facts, to establish a theory.
Of the "plenty" said to abound in China, we will
only say that no where else have we seen so much
want as here, though we do not charge upon the go-
vernment the entire amount of the prevailing misery.
Those persons who form their opinion from Du
Halde, alone, will be ready to consider the Chinese a
most virtuous nation. Surely there are amiable
qualities in the Chinese character, but their vices are
2
14
INTERCOURSE WITH CHINA.
་
also very repulsive. Without enumerating them, we
may confidently aver, that their manners cannot be
very much deteriorated by foreign intercourse. In
their morals there is, unhappily, not too much good
theory, and very little practice of it. Every point of
etiquette is rigorously observed, while the claims of
mercy and justice are forgotten.
Extortion seems universally prevalent; where
it cannot be effected directly, it is done indirectly
To escape these numerous impositions there is one
mode, often recommended and even enforced by the
Chinese authorities; namely, to leave the country.
No class of strangers have submitted to so great
indignities as the Catholic missionaries. Their zeal
to enter China was stronger than any travellers to
reach Timbuctoo. Francis Xavier died in sight of
this beloved land, and prayed with his expiring breath
for its conversion. Alexander Valignano, general of
the India Missions, who resided at Macao, often turned
his face towards the coast of China and exclaimed,
"O rock! O rock! when wilt thou open!" Diffi-
culties abated not their zeal; they overcame them all
by perseverance, and Matthew Ricci actually entered
the Celestial Empire in 1582. Had they then spread
the pure Gospel instead of the doctrines of the Ro-
mish Church, China would have been numbered
among the social nations, for true Christianity seeks
to unite all the inhabitants of the world together.
Many of them were men of superior talents, of in-
sinuating address, and matchless patience. Amongst
so great a variety of character, some must have been
INTERCOURSE WITH CHINA.
15
men of true piety, whose anxiety to advance the
Redeemer's kingdom would free their religion from
much of human invention. We admire the upright-
ness and intrepidity which many showed in defence
of the Gospel; while we detest the servility by which
a great number conciliated the favor of the Chinese
autocrat. Men like Schaal, Verbiest, Gerbillon, Bre-
marre and Bouvet, would have shone in Europe by
the lustre of their genius. In China they inspired
the emperor with a very high opinion of European
science, but failed to gain his sincere love of the Gos-
pel. Their successors could never gain the same
ascendancy over his mind, and though willing to en-
dure, as they actually did, all the hardships of their
predecessors, they never rose so high into favor.
After the abolition of the order of Jesuits, the mis-
sions of the various orders of monks sunk down to
comparative insignificance. Yet their professed con-
verts are numerous even to this day. The most se-
vere prohibitions have not prevented their entering
the forbidden ground. Ridicule and contempt, per-
secution and martyrdom, have been directed against
their religion and its votaries, yet they still con-
tinue their attachment to it, and their efforts to
promote it.*
When love to our Saviour shall transcend all
minor and selfish passions, and fully possessing the
heart, shall prompt to the utmost exertions to glorify
* In 1815, the late emperor, Kea-King, encouraged a persecution
against the Christians. The present emperor, Taou-Kwang, has
never persecuted them. -Pub.
16
INTERCOURSE WITH CHINA.
his name, we humbly believe that all the barriers of
Chinese misanthropy will fall. There is some-
thing irresistible in that holy ardor which counts all
things nothing for Christ, and which is prepared for
any sacrifices to exalt his glorious name. The
prince of darkness, with all his infernal array, can
never prevail against the men who rely upon their
Redeemer's strength, who walk in his spirit, and
who live and die in his service. As he is the ruler
of the universe, and the sole potentate, upholding
the world by his almighty hand, the removal of ob-
stacles insurmountable to man is to him an easy
work. A simple, steady faith in him, exalts its pos-
sessor above impediments and repeated disappoint-
ments: he knows that his Saviour will triumph over
all his enemies, and under all difficulties in the path
of duty, will uphold him. In the divine promise,
surer than any human covenant, that all the nations
of the earth shall be given to his Lord, he reads the
certain conversion of China. Armed with this faith,
he is confident that the day, though remote, is yet
sure, and that small efforts, in the day of small things,
will subserve the cause of God. The translation
and circulation of the Holy Scriptures, the composi-
tion and distribution of tracts, with occasional oral
addresses to the people, are the means he would em-
ploy to promulgate the Gospel of Christ. Many
thousands may read, and hear, and not understand;
yet, if a few among these thousands embrace the
word of eternal life, the salvation of that few is an
abundant reward: for to save one soul is far more
INTERCOURSE WITH CHINA.
17
valuable than to conquer the world. While quoting
this divine truth, I am convinced that individual
Christians, thoroughly penetrated with such senti-
ments, could accomplish more for the benefit of Chi-
na, than the greatest statesmen as mere politicians.
Of the former there have been few to consecrate
their lives to this great object, and still fewer who
have been successful in their attempts; but more will
arise so soon as the enterprise shall cease to be re-
garded as hopeless.
After the total or partial failure of so many en-
deavors to open an intercourse, a very general doubt
of the success of any future attempt seems to exist.
Yet exertions, prompted solely by a desire for the
glory of God and the good of men, and executed
with a single eye to the Almighty for guidance and
strength, can never be wholly useless. The divine
promise, the experience of past ages, and the present
dispensations of Providence, are in our favor.
When we express our confident hope of success
through the Invisible One, it is not meant to deny
the difficulties of spreading the Gospel in China, but
only that the successful result is foreseen through
them all by the believer. The outcry against the
Gospel will doubtless be very great. It must subvert
a system of atheism, superstition, and self-righteous
morality. The Gospel of peace will be accused of a
rebellious tendency, and its preachers will undergo a
persecution more severe than did their predecessors,
the Roman Catholics. But whatever may befal its
champions, the final overthrow of the kingdom of
2*
18
INTERCOURSE WITH CHINA.
darkness is sure, and the ultimate result will be
glorious.
While representing Christianity as the only ef
fectual means of establishing a friendly intercourse,
I would not reject the efforts of commercial enter-
prise to open a trade with the maritime provinces,
but rather regard them as the probable means of in-
troducing that Gospel into a country to which the
only access is by sea.
JOURNAL
OF
A RESIDENCE IN SIAM,
AND THE
FIRST VOYAGE ALONG THE COAST OF CHINA.
CHAPTER I.
MAY, 1831.* During a residence of almost three
years in Siam, I had the high gratification of seeing
the prejudices of the natives vanish; and perceived
with delight, that a large field amongst the different
people who inhabit Siam, was opening. As long as
the junks from China stayed, most of the time was
taken up by administering to the spiritual and bodily
wants of large numbers of Chinese. We expe-
rienced this year the peculiar blessings of our divine
Saviour. The demand for books, the inquiries after
the truth, the friendship shown, were most favorable
tokens of divine approbation upon our feeble endea-
The work of translation proceeded rapidly;
we were enabled to illustrate the rudiments of lan-
guages hitherto unknown to Europeans; and to em-
body the substance of our philological researches in
small volumes, which will remain in manuscript,
vors.
* Bankok, at which place this Journal commences, is the chief
commercial city of Siam. Its population, in 1828, was 401,300, of
whom 360,000 were Chinese.-- Pub,
20
SIAM.
presuming that they may be of some advantage
to other missionaries. Some individuals, either
prompted by curiosity, or drawn by an interest for
their own eternal welfare, applied for instruction, and
one of them made an open profession of Christianity.
When we first arrived, our appearance spread a
general panic. It was well known by the predictions
of the Bali books, that a certain religion of the west
would vanquish Budhism; and, as the votaries of a
western religion had conquered Burmah, people pre-
sumed, that their religious principles would prove
equally victorious in Siam. By and by, fears sub-
sided; but were, on a sudden, again roused, when
there were brought to Bankok, Burman tracts, writ-
ten by Mr. Judson, in which it was stated that the
Gospel would soon triumph over all false religions.
Constant inquiries were made about the certain
time, when this should take place; the passages of
Holy Writ, which we quoted in confirmation of the
grand triumph of Christ's kingdom, were duly
weighed, and only few objections started. At this
time, the Siamese looked with great anxiety upon
the part which the English would take, in the war
between Quedah and themselves. When the king
first heard of their neutrality, he exclaimed: "I be-
hold finally, that there is some truth in Christianity,
which formerly, I considered very doubtful." This
favorable opinion influenced the people to become
friendly with us. The consequence was, that we
gained access to persons of all ranks, and of both
sexes. Under such circumstances, it would have
}
•
MISSIONARY LABORS.
21
been folly to leave the country, if Providence had not
ordered otherwise, in disabling me by sickness, from
further labor there. A pain in my left side, accom-
panied by headache, great weakness, and want of
appetite, threw me upon my couch. Though I en-
deavored to rally my robust constitution, I could
readily perceive, that I was verging, daily, with quick
strides, towards the grave; and a burial place was
actually engaged.
Bright as the prospects were, there were also great
obstacles in the way, to retard the achievement of
our endeavors, the salvation of souls. The Siamese
are very fickle, and will often be very anxious to
embrace an opinion to-day, which to-morrow they
will entirely reject. Their friendship is unsteady;
the attachment which many of them professed to
the Gospel, as the word of eternal life, has never been
very sincere; neither could we fully succeed in fix-
ing their minds on the Saviour. Though all reli-
gions are tolerated in Siam, yet Budhism is the reli-
gion of the state, and all the public institutions are
for the promotion of this superstition. This system
of the grossest lies, which can find champions only
in the biased minds of some scholars in Europe, en-
grosses, theoretically, as well as practically, the minds
of its votaries, and renders every step towards im-
provement most difficult. We were allowed to
preach in the temples of Budha; and the numerous
priests were anxious to engage with us in conversa-
tion; yet their hearts were, generally, steeled against
divine truth.
22
SIAM.
Budhism is atheism, according to the creed which
one of the Siamese high-priests gave me; the high-
est degree of happiness consists in annihilation; the
greatest enjoyment is in indolence; and their sole
hope is founded upon endless transmigration. We
may very easily conclude what an effect these doc-
trines must have upon the morals of both priests and
laymen, especially, if we keep in mind that they are
duly inculcated, and almost every male in Siam, for
a certain time, becomes a priest, in order to study
them. From the king to the meanest of his sub-
jects, self-sufficiency is characteristic; the former
prides himself on account of having acquired so high
a dignity for his virtuous deeds in a former life; the
latter is firmly assured, that by degrees, in the course
of some thousands of years, he will come to the same
honor. I regret, not to have found one honest man ;
many have the reputation of being such, but upon
nearer inspection they are equally void of this stand-
ard virtue. Sordid oppression, priestcraft, allied to
wretchedness and filth, are every where to be met.
Notwithstanding, the Siamese are superior in moral-
ity, to the Malays. They are neither sanguinary
nor bigoted, and are not entirely shut against per-
suasion.
Favored by an over-ruling Providence, I had
equal access to the palace, and to the cottage; and
was frequently, against my inclination, called to the
former. Chow-fa-nooi, the younger brother of the
late king and the rightful heir of the crown, is a
youth, of about twenty-three, possessing some abili-
ROYAL FAMILY.
23
ties, which are however swallowed up in childishness.
He speaks English; can write a little; can imitate
works of European artisans; and is a decided friend
of European sciences, and of Christianity. He
courts the friendship of every European; holds free
conversation with him, and is anxious to learn what-
ever he can. He is beloved by the whole nation,
which is wearied out by heavy taxes; but his elder
brother, Chow-fa-yay, who is just now a priest, is
still more beloved. If they ascend the throne, the
changes in all the institutions of the country will be
great, but perhaps too sudden. The son of the Phra
Klang, or minister of foreign affairs, is of superior in-
telligence, but has a spirit for intrigue, which renders
him formidable at court, and dangerous to foreign-
ers. He looks with contempt upon his whole na-
tion; but crouches before every individual, by means
of whom he may gain any influence. Chow-nin,
the step-brother of the King, is a young man, of good
talents, which are however spoiled by his habit of
smoking opium. Kroma-sun-ton, late brother of the
king, and chief justice of the kingdom, was the per-
son by whom I could communicate my sentiments
to the king. Officially invited, I spent hours with
him in conversation, principally upon Christianity,
and often upon the character of the British nation.
Though himself a most dissolute person, he request-
ed me to educate his son, (a stupid boy,) and seem-
ed the best medium for communicating Christian
truth to the highest personages of the kingdom. At
his request, I wrote a work upon Christianity, but he
24
SIAM.
lived not to read it; for he was burnt in his palace
in the beginning of 1831. Kroma-khun, brother-in-
law to the former king, a stern old man, called in
my medical help, and I took occasion to converse
with him on religious subjects. He greatly approved
of Christian principles, but did not apply to the foun-
tain of all virtue, Jesus Christ. In consequence of
an ulcer in his left side, he again called in my aid;
yet his proud son despised the assistance of a barba-
rian; neither would the royal physicians accept of
my advice; and the man soon died. Even a disas-
ter of this description, served to recommend me to his
majesty, the present king, who is naturally fond of
Europeans; and he entreated me not to leave the
kingdom on any account; but rather to become an
officer, in the capacity of a physician. Paya-meh-
tap, the commander in chief of the Siamese army in
the war against the Laos or Chans, otherwise writ-
ten Shans, returning from his victorious exploits,
was honored with royal favor, and loaded with the
spoils of an oppressed nation, near the brink of de-
struction. A severe disease prompted him to call me
near his person. He promised gold, which he never
intended to pay, as a reward for my services. And
when restored, he condescended so far as to make
me sit down by his side, and converse with him up-
on various important subjects. Paya-rak, a man
hated by all the Siamese nobility, on account of his
mean, intriguing spirit, and sent as a spy to the fron-
tiers of Cochin-China, urged me to explain to him the
nature of the Gospel; and as he found my discourse
RELIGIOUS INQUIRERS.
25
reasonable, he gave me a present of dried fish for the
trouble I had taken. The mother of prince Kroma-
zorin, one of the wives of the late king, contrasted
evangelical truth with Budhistical nonsense, when
she made me meet one of her most favorite priests,
of whom she is a decided patron. Though she had
built a temple for the accommodation of the priests
of Budha, that mass might be constantly performed
in behalf of her son, who lately died, she thought it
necessary to hear, with all her retinue, the new doc-
trine, of which so much had been said at court of late.
The sister of Paya-meh-tap invited me, on purpose
to hear me explain the doctrine of the Gospel, which
she, according to her own expression, believed to be
the same with the wondrous stories of the Virgin
Mary.
In relating these facts I would only remark, that I
maintained intercourse with the individuals here
mentioned, against my inclination; for it is burden-
some and disgusting to cultivate friendship with the
Siamese nobles. They used to call at midnight at
our cottage, and would frequently send for me at
whatever time it might suit their foolish fancies. At
the same time, it must be acknowledged that, in this
manner, Providence opened a way to speak to their
hearts, and also to vindicate the character of Euro-
peans, which is so insidiously misrepresented to the
king.
I will mention also a few individuals in the
humbler spheres of life; but who profited more by
our instructions than any of the nobles. Two priests,
3
26
SIAM.
one of them the favorite chaplain of his majesty,
the other a young man of good parts, but without
experience, were anxious to be fully instructed in
the doctrines of the Gospel. They came during the
night, and persevered in their application, even to the
neglect of the study of Bali, the sacred language, and
of their usual services in Budhism. The elder, a
most intelligent man, about twenty years of age, con-
tinued for months to repair with the Bible to a fo-
rest, boldly incurring the displeasure of the king. He
also urged his younger brother to leave his native.
country, in order to acquire a full knowledge of
Christianity and European sciences, so as afterwards
to become the instructor of his benighted fellow-citi-
zens; a Cambojan priest was willing to embark for
the same purpose. Finally, a company of friends
invited me to preach to them, that they might know
what was the religion of the Pharangs, or Europeans.
Siam has never received, so much as it ought,
the attention of European philanthropists and mer-
chants. It is one of the most fertile countries in
Asia. Under a good government it might be supe-
rior to Bengal, and Bankok would outweigh Calcut-
ta. But Europeans have always been treated there
with distrust, and even insolence, if it could be done
with impunity. They have been liable to every
sort of petty annoyance, which would weary out the
most patient spirit; and have been subjected to the
most unheard-of oppression. Some of them pro-
posed to introduce some useful arts, which might in-
crease power and riches; for instance, steam engines,
NATIVE CHRISTIANS.
27
saw mills, cannon founderies, cultivation of indigo
and coffee; but with the exception of one French-
man, their offers were all refused; and the latter had
to leave the country in disgrace, after having com-
menced the construction of an engine for boring guns.
When works for their benefit were accomplished,
their value was depreciated, in order to dispense with
the necessity of rewarding European industry, and
of thereby acknowledging the superiority of Euro-
pean genius.
The general idea, hitherto entertained by the ma-
jority of the nation as to the European character, was
derived from a small number of Christians, so styled,
who, born in the country, and partly descended from
Portuguese, crouch before their nobles as dogs, and
are employed in all menial services, and occasionally
suffered to enlist as soldiers or surgeons.
All re-
proaches heaped upon them, are eventually realized;
and their character as faithful children to the Romish
church, has been fairly exhibited by drunkenness
and cockfighting. No industry, no genius, no ho-
nesty is found amongst them, with the exception of
one individual, who indeed has a right to claim the
latter virtue as his own. From this misconception
has emanated all the disgraceful treatment of Euro-
peans up to the time of the war between Burmah
and the Company. When the first British envoy
arrived, he was treated with contempt, because the
extent of English power was not known. When
the English had taken Rangoon, it was not believed
by the king, until he had sent a trust-worthy per-
28
SIAM.
son to ascertain the fact. Still, doubts agitated the
royal breast as to the issue of the war with the in-
vincible Burmans. Reluctantly did the Siamese
hear of the victories of their British allies, though
they were protected thereby from the ravages of the
Burmans, who surely would have turned the edge
of their swords against them, if the British had not
conquered these, their inveterate enemies. Notwith-
standing, the Siamese government could gladly hail
the emissaries of Burmah, who privately arrived with
despatches, the sole object of which was to prevail
upon the king of Siam not to assist the English, in
case of a breach, upon the plea of common religion
and usages. But the national childish vanity of the
Siamese in thinking themselves superior to all na-
tions, except the Chinese and Burmans, has vanished;
and the more the English are feared, the better is
the treatment which is experienced during their
residence in this country. The more the ascend-
ancy of their genius is acknowledged, the more their
friendship as individuals is courted, their customs
imitated, and their language studied. His majesty
has decked a few straggling wretches in the uniform
of Sepoys, and considers them as brave and well-
disciplined as their patterns. Chow-fa-nooi, desirous
of imitating foreigners, has built a ship, on a small
scale, and intends doing the same on a larger one, as
soon as his funds will admit. English, as well as
Americans, are disencumbered in their intercourse,
and enjoy at present privileges of which even the
favored Chinese cannot boast.
CHINESE RESIDENTS.
29
The natives of China come in great numbers
from Chaou-chow-foo, the most eastern part of Can-
ton Province. They are mostly agriculturists;
while another Canton tribe, called the Kih or Ka,
consists chiefly of artisans. Emigrants from Tang-
an (or Tung-an) district, in Fuhkeen province, are
few; mostly sailors or merchants. Those from Hai-
nan are chiefly pedlars and fishermen, and form
perhaps the poorest, yet the most cheerful class.
Language, as well as customs, derived from the
Chaou-chow Chinese, are prevalent throughout the
country. They delight to live in wretchedness and
filth, and are very anxious to conform to the vile
habits of the Siamese. In some cases when they
enter into matrimonial alliances with these latter,
they even throw away their jackets and trowsers,
and become Siamese in their very dress. As the
lax, indifferent religious principles of the Chinese, do
not differ essentially from those of the Siamese, the
former are very prone to conform entirely to the re-
ligious rites of the latter. And if they have children,
these frequently cut off their queues, and become for
a certain time Siamese priests. Within two or three
generations, all the distinguishing marks of the
Chinese character dwindle entirely away; and a
nation which adheres so obstinately to its national.
customs becomes wholly changed to Siamese.
These people usually neglect their own literature,
and apply themselves to the Siamese. To them
nothing is so welcome as the being presented, by
the king, with an honorary title; and this generally
3*
30
SIAM.
takes place when they have acquired great riches,
or have betrayed some of their own countrymen.
From that moment they become slaves of the King;
the more so if they are made his officers. No service
is then so menial, so expensive, so difficult, but they
are forced to perform it. And in case of disobedience,
they are severely punished, and, perhaps, put into
chains for their whole lives. Nothing, therefore,
exceeds the fear of the Chinese, they pay the
highest respect to their oppressors, and cringe when
addressed by them. Notwithstanding the heavy
taxes laid upon their industry, they labor patiently
from morning to night, to feed their insolent and in-
dolent tyrants, who think it below their dignity to
gain their daily bread by their own exertions. With
the exception of the Hwuy Hwuy, or Triad society,
implicit obedience is paid to their most exorbitant
demands, by every Chinese settler.
Some years back, this society formed a conspiracy,
seized upon some native craft at Bamplasoi, a place
near the mouth of the Meinam, and began to revenge
themselves upon their tyrants: but falling short of
provisions, they were forced to put to sea. Followed
by a small Siamese squadron they were compelled
to flee; till contrary winds and utter want of the
necessaries of life, obliged them to surrender. The
ringleader escaped to Cochin-China, but most of his
followers were either massacred, or sent to prison for
life. From that time all hope of recovering the na-
tion from abject bondage disappeared; though there
are a great many individuals, who trust that the
PEGUANS-BURMANS.
31
English (according to their own expression,) will
extend their benevolent government as far as Siam.
Every arrival of a ship enlivens their expectations,-
every departure damps their joy.
Great numbers of the agriculturists in Siam are
Peguans, or Mons (as they call themselves.) This
nation was formerly governed by a king of its own,
who waged war against the Burmans and Siamese,
and proved successful. But having, eventually,
been overwhelmed, alternately, by Burman and
Siamese armies, the Peguans are now the slaves of
both. They are a strong race of people, very indus-
trious in their habits, open in their conversation, and
cheerful in their intercourse. The new palace which
the king of Siam has built, was principally erected
by their labor, in token of the homage paid by
them to the lord of the white elephant.' Their
religion is the same with that of the Siamese. In
their dress, the males conform to their masters; but
the females let their hair grow, and dress differently
from the Siamese women. Few nations are so well
prepared for the reception of the Gospel as this; but,
alas! few nations have less drawn the attention of
European philanthropists.
The Siamese are in the habit of stealing Burmans
and making them their slaves. Though the Eng-
lish have of late interposed with some effect, they
nevertheless delight in exercising this nefarious
practice. There are several thousand Burmans
living, who have been enslaved in this way, and
who are compelled to work harder than any other
32
SIAM.
of his majesty's subjects. They are held in the ut-
most contempt, treated barbarously, and are scarcely
able to get the necessaries of life.
Perhaps no nation has been benefited, by coming
under the Siamese dominion, with the exception of
the Malays. These Malays, also, are principally
slaves or tenants of large tracts of land, which they
cultivate with great care. They generally lose, as
almost every nation does in Siam, their national cha-
racter, become industrious, conform to Siamese cus-
toms, and often gain a little property. With the
exception of a few Hadjis, they have no priests; but
these exercise an uncontrolled sway over their vota-
ries, and know the art of enriching themselves with-
out injury to their character as saints. These Hadjis
teach also the Koran, and have generally a great
many scholars, of whom, however, few make any
progress, choosing rather to yield to paganism, even
so far as to throw of their turbans, than to follow
their spiritual guides.
There are also some Moors resident in the country,
who are styled emphatically by the Siamese, Kah,
strangers, and are mostly country-born. Their chief
and his son, Rasitty, enjoy the highest honors with
his majesty; the former being the medium of speech,
whereby persons of inferior rank convey their ideas
to the royal ear. As it is considered below the dignity
of so high a potentate as his Siamese majesty, to
speak the same language as his subjects have adopt-
ed, the above mentioned Moor-man's office consists
in moulding the simplest expressions into nonsensi-
MOORS.
33
cal bombast, in order that the speech addressed to so
mighty a ruler may be equal to the eulogiums be-
stowed upon Budha. Yet by being made the me-
dium of speech, this Moor has it in his power to
represent matters according to his own interest, and
he never fails to make ample use of this prerogative.
Hence no individual is so much hated or feared by
the nobles, and scarcely any one wields so imperious
a sway over the royal resolutions. Being averse to
an extensive trade with Europeans, he avails him-
self of every opportunity to shackle it, and to promote
intercourse with his own countrymen, whom he
nevertheless squeezes whenever it is in his power.
All the other Moor-men are either his vassals or in
his immediate employ, and may be said to be an or-
ganized body of wily constituents. They do not
wear the turban, and they dispense with the wide
oriental dress nor do they scruple even to attend at
pagan festivals and rites, merely to conciliate the fa
vor of their masters, and to indulge in the unrestrain-
ed habits of the Siamese.
In the capacity of missionary and physician, I
came in contact with the Laos or Chans, a nation
scarcely known to Europeans. I learnt their lan-
guage, which is very similar to Siainese, though the
written character, used in their common as well as
sacred books, differs from that of the Siamese. This
nation, which occupies a great part of the eastern
peninsula, from the northern frontiers of Siam, along
Camboja and Cochin-China on the one side, and Bur-
mah on the other, up to the borders of China and
34
SIAM.
Tonquin, is divided by the Laos into Lau-pung-kau
(white Laos,) and Lau-pung-dam (black or dark
Laos,) owing partly to the color of their skin. These
people inhabit mostly mountainous regions, cultivate
the ground, or hunt; and live under the government
of many petty princes, who are dependant on Siam,
Burmah, Cochin-China, and China. Though their
country abounds in many precious articles, and
among them a considerable quantity of gold, yet the
people are poor, and live even more wretchedly than
the Siamese, with the exception of those who are
under the jurisdiction of the Chinese. Though they
have a national literature, they are not very anxious
to study it; nor does it afford them a fountain of
knowledge. Their best books, are relations of the
common occurrences of life, in prose; or contemptible
tales of giants and fairies. Their religious books, in the
Bali language are very little understood by their priests,
who differ from the Siamese priests only in their
stupidity. Although their country may be considered
as the cradle of Budhism in these parts, because most
of the vestiges of Samo Nakodum, apparently the
first missionary of paganism, are to be met with in
their precincts; yet the temples built in honor of
Budha, are by no means equal to those in Siam, nor
are the Laos as superstitious as their neighbors.
Their language is very soft and melodious, and suf-
ficiently capacious to express their ideas.
The Laos are dirty in their habits, sportful in their
temper, careless in their actions, and lovers of music
and dancing in their diversions. Their organ, made
LAOS.
35
of reeds, in a peculiar manner, is among the sweet-
est instruments to be met with in Asia.
Under the
hand of an European master, it would become one
of the most perfect instruments in existence. Every
noble maintains a number of dancing boys, who
amuse their masters with the most awkward ges-
tures, while music is playing in accordance with their
twistings and turnings.
The southern districts carry on a very brisk trade
with Siam, whither the natives come in long narrow
boats, covered with grass; importing the productions
of their own country, such as ivory, gold, tiger skins,
aromatics, &c. ; and exporting European and Indian
manufactures, and some articles of Siamese industry.
This trade gave rise, in 1827, to a war with the
Siamese, who used every stratagem to oppress the
subjects of one of the Laos tributary chiefs, Chow-
vin-chan. This prince, who was formerly so high in
favor with the late king of Siam, as to be received,
at his last visit, in a gilded boat, and to be carried in
a gilded sedan chair, found the exorbitant exactions
of the Siamese governor on the frontier, injurious to
the trade of his subjects, and to his own revenues.
He applied repeatedly, to the Court at Bankok for re-
dress and being unsuccessful, he then addressed the
governor himself: but no attention was paid to his
grievances. He finally had recourse to arms, to
punish the governor, without any intention of waging
war with the king, an event for which he was wholly
unprepared. His rising, however, transfused so gen-
eral a panic among the Siamese, that they very soon
36
SIAM.
marched en masse against him, and met with im-
mediate success. From that moment the country
became the scene of bloodshed and devastation.
Paya-meh-tap, the Siamese commander-in-chief, not
only endeavored to enrich himself with immense
spoils, but committed the most horrible acts of cruelty,
butchering all, without regard to sex or age. And
whenever this was found too tedious, he shut up a
number of victims together, and then either set fire
to the house, or blew it up with gunpowder. The
number of captives (generally country people), was
very great. They were brought down the Meinam
on rafts; and were so short of provision, that the
major part died from starvation: the remainder were
distributed among the nobles as slaves, and were
treated more inhumanly than the most inveterate
enemies; while many of the fair sex were placed in
the harems of the king and his nobles.
Forsaken by all his subjects, Chow-vin-chan fled
with his family to one of the neighboring Laos chiefs;
in the mean time, the Cochin-Chinese sent an envoy
to interpose with the Siamese commander-in-chief on
his behalf. The envoy was treacherously murdered
by the Siamese together with his whole retinue, con-
sisting of one hundred men, of whom one only was
suffered to return to give an account of the tragedy.
Enraged at such a breach of the law of nations, but
feeling themselves too weak to revenge cruelty by
cruelty, the Cochin-Chinese then sent an ambassador
to Bankok, demanding that the author of the murder
should be delivered up; and, at the same time, declar-
WAR WITH THE LAOS.
37
ing Cochin-China the mother of the Laos people, while
to Siam was given the title of father. Nothing could
be more conciliatory than the letter addressed, on the
occasion, to the king of Siam; but the latter, refus-
ing to give any decisive answer to this and other
messages repeatedly sent to him, himself despatched
a wily politician to Hue,* who, however, was plainly
refused admittance, and given to understand that the
kings of Siam and Cochin-China ceased henceforth
to be friends. The king of Siam, who was rather
intimidated by such a blunt reply, ordered his princi-
pal nobles and Chinese subjects to build some hun-
dred war boats, after the model made by the gover-
nor of Ligore.
But, whilst those war boats, or as they might be
more appropriately called, pleasure boats, were build-
ing, Chow-vin-chan, with his whole family, was be-
trayed into the hands of the Siamese. Being con-
fined in cages, within sight of the instruments of
torture, the old man, worn out by fatigue and hard'
treatment, died; while his son and heir to the crown
effected his escape. Great rewards were offered for
the latter, and he was found out, and would have
been instantly murdered, but climbing up to the
roof of a pagoda, he remained there till all means of
escape failed, when he threw himself down upon a
rock, and perished. The royal race of this Laos
tribe, Chan-Pung-dan, synonymous with Lau-
Pung-dam, (black or dark Laos), is now extinct, the
country is laid waste, the peasants, to the number
* The capital city of Cochin-China.
4
38
SIAM.
of 100,000, have been dispersed over different parts
of Siam; and the whole territory has been brought,
notwithstanding the remonstrances of the Court of
Hue, under the immediate control of the Siamese,
who are anxious to have it peopled by other tribes.
Those Laos nobles who yielded to the Siamese at
the first onset, are at present kept confined in the
spacious buildings of the Samplung pagoda, a tem-
ple erected by the father of Paya-meh-tap, on the
banks of the Meinam, near the city of Bankok. I
paid them a visit there, and found them exceedingly
dejected, but open and polite in their conversation.
They cherish the hope that they shall be sent back
to their native country, relying on the compassion
of his Siamese majesty, who forgives even when no
offence has been given.
Although the Laos, generally, are in a low state of
civilization, yet there are some tribes, amongst their
most inaccessible mountains, inferior even to the
rest of the nation. One of the most peaceful of these
are the Kahs. The Laos, imitating the Siamese,
are in the habit of stealing individuals of this tribe,
and bringing them to Bankok for sale. Hence I
have been able to converse with some of the Kahs,
who stated to me, that their countrymen live peace-
ably and without wants, on their mountains, culti-
vating just so much rice as is sufficient for their own
use; and that they are without religion or laws, in a
state of society, not far superior to that of herding
elephants. Nevertheless, they seem capable of great
improvement, and, under the hand of a patient mi-
CAMBOJANS.
39
nister of Christ, may be as much benefited by the
divine Gospel, as have been the lately so savage in-
habitants of Tahiti or Hawaii.
Some Laos, who were sent by their chiefs, a few
years ago, with a Chinese mandarin from the fron-
tiers of China, appeared a superior class of people,
though speaking the same language as the other
tribes. They have been greatly improved by their
intercourse with the Chinese, to whose emperor they
are accustomed to send regular tribute, by the hands
of an ambassador.
Amongst the various races of people who inhabit
Siam, there are also Kamehs or natives of Camboja.
This country, situated to the south-east of Siam, is
doubtless of higher antiquity than any of the sur-
rounding states. The name Camboja occurs in the
Ramayan and other ancient Hindoo poems; and in
the earliest accounts of the country, Hindostan is
mentioned as the cradle of Budhism. The lan-
guage of the Cambojans differs materially from the
Siamese, and is more harsh, but at the same time
also more copious. Their literature is very exten-
sive, and their books are written in a character
called Khom, which is used by the Siamese only in
writing their sacred Bali books. Most of their
books, and, with the exception of the national laws
and history, perhaps all,-are in poetry. They
treat generally on very trivial subjects, abound in re-
petitions, and are often extremely childish. I have
Been a geographical work, written some centuries
40
SIAM.
ago, which is more correct than Chinese works of
the same kind.
Camboja was very long ruled by its own princes;
but lately, disunion induced two brothers to take up
arms against each other. Cochin-China and Siam
both profited by this discord, and divided the coun-
try between themselves, while one of the princes fled
to Cochin-China, and three to Siam. I was acquainted
with two of the latter, the third having died. They
entertain the hope that their country will yet be re-
stored to them, since they did nothing to forfeit it.
The younger of the two is a man of genius, and
ready to improve his mind, but too childish to take
advantage of any opportunity which may offer to
him. The Cambojans are a cringing, coarse people,
narrow-minded, insolent, and officious, as circum-
stances require. They are, however, open to con-
viction, and capable of improvement. The males
are many of them well formed, but the females are
very vulgar in their appearance. They are on
equality with their neighbors, in regard to filth and
wretchedness, and are by no means inferior to them
in laziness. They carry on scarcely any trade ex-
cept in silk stuffs, which they fabricate themselves,
although to do so is contrary to the institutes of
Budha, because the life of the silk-worm is endanger-
ed during the process. To spend hours before their
nobles in the posture of crouching dogs, to chew
betelnut, and to converse in their harsh language,
are the most agreeable amusements of this people.
Camboja is watered by the Meinam kom, a large
COCHIN-CHINA.
41
river, which takes its rise in Thibet. Like the
southern part of Siam, the land is low and fertile,
and even well inhabited. The principal emporium
is Luknooi (so called by the natives), the Saigon of
Europeans. This place has many Chinese settlers
within its precincts, and carries on, under the juris-
diction of the Cochin-Chinese, a very brisk trade
(principally in betelnut and silk), both with Singa-
pore and the northern ports of China. The capital
of Camboja is surrounded by a wall, erected in high
antiquity. The country itself is highly cultivated,
though not to the extent that it might be; for, as
the people are satisfied with a little rice and dry fish,
they are not anxious to improve their condition by
industry.
Hitherto Camboja has been the cause of much
hostility between Siam and Cochin-China; each na-
tion being anxious to extend its own jurisdiction
over the whole country. Even so late as last year,
a Cochin-Chinese squadron, collected at Kuknooi
was about to put out to sea in order to defend the
Cambojan coast against an expected descent of the
Siamese; while at the same time, the Cambojans
are anxious to regain their liberty, and to expel the
Cochin-Chinese, their oppressors.
Cochin-China or Annam, united by the last revo-
lution with Tonquin, has always viewed Siam with
the greatest distrust. Formerly, the country was
divided by civil contests; but when a French bishop
had organized the kingdom, and amplified its re-
sources under the reign of Kaung Shung, Annam
4*
42
SIAM.
could defy the prowess of Siam. Even when the
French influence had ceased, and the country had
relapsed into its former weakness, the Cochin-Chinese
continued to keep a jealous eye on Siam. The
Siamese, conscious of their own inferiority, burnt,
on one occasion, a large quantity of timber collected
for ships of war, which were to have been built in a
Cochin-Chinese harbor; they have also been suc-
cessful in kidnapping some of the subjects of Annam;
and the captives have mostly settled at Bankok, and
are very able tradesmen. If the character of the
Cochin-Chinese was not deteriorated by the govern-
ment, the people would hold a superior rank in the
scale of nations. They are lively, intelligent, inqui-
sitive, and docile, though uncleanly and rather indo-
lent. This indolence, however, results from the
tyranny of government, which compels the people
to work most of the time for its benefit. The Co-
chin-Chinese pay great regard to persons acquainted
with Chinese literature. Their written language
differs materially from their oral; the latter is like
the Cambojan, while the former is similar to the
dialect spoken on the island of Hainan.
It remains now to make some remarks on the in-
troduction of Christianity into Siam. When the
Portuguese first came to this country, in 1622, they
immediately propagated their own religious tenets.
The French missionaries came to the country some-
time afterward, by land. They had high anticipa-
tions of success from the assistance of Cephalonian
Phaulkon; and, as soon as the French embassy ar-
CATHOLIC MISSIONS.
43
rived, and French influence gained the ascendancy,
they increased the number of able laborers. Two
of them even shaved their heads, and conformed to
the customs of the Siamese talapoys or priests, under
pretence of learning the Bali language. But, when
the treachery of Phaulkon had been discovered, he
himself killed, and the French expelled, the influence
of the priests vanished; the number of their con-
verts, instead of increasing, rapidly diminished; and
the two individuals, who went to live with the Si-
amese priests, were never more heard of. Though
the French missionaries have maintained their sta-
tion here to this day, yet at times they have been
driven to great straits, and subjected to frequent im-
prisonments.
It is astonishing that, while in all other countries,
where Romanists have entered, their converts have
been numerous, there have never been but a few in
Siam. At present, only a small number,-mostly
the descendants of Portuguese, who speak the Cam-
bojan and Siamese languages, constitute their flock;
they have at Bankok, four churches; at Chanti-
bun, one; and lately, a small one has been built at
Jutaya, the ancient capital. Yet, all this would be
of little consequence, if even a few individuals had
been converted to their Saviour, by the influence of
the Holy Spirit. But, to effect this change of heart
and life, seems, alas! never to have been the inten-
tion of the spiritual guides, or the endeavor of their
followers. I lament the degradation of people, who
so disgrace the name of Christians; and would ear-
44
SIAM.
nestly wish that never any convert of such a descrip-
tion was made.
The labors of the protestant mission have hi-
therto only been preparatory, and are in their incipi-
ent state. However, the attention of all the different
races of people who inhabit Siam, has been univer-
sally roused; and we may predict the approach of
the happy time, when even Siam shall stretch forth
its hands to the Saviour of the world.
A country so rich in productions as Siam, offers a
large field for mercantile enterprise. Sugar, sapan-
wood, beche-de-mar, birds' nests, sharks' fins, gam-
boge, indigo, cotton, ivory, and other articles, attract
the notice of a great number of Chinese traders,
whose junks every year, in February, March, and
the beginning of April, arrive from Hainan, Canton,
Soakah, (or Shan-keo, in Chaou-chow-Foo,) Amoy,
Ningpo, Seang-hae, (or Shang-hea-heen, in Keang-
nan,) and other places. Their principal imports
consist of various articles for the consumption of the
Chinese, and a considerable amount of bullion.
They select their export cargo according to the dif
ferent places of destination, and leave Siam in the
last of May, in June, and July. These vessels are
about eighty in number. Those which go up to the
Yellow sea, take mostly, sugar, sapan-wood, and be-
telnut. They are called Pak-tow-sun, (or Pih-tow-
chuen, white headed vessels,) are usually built in Si-
am, and are of about 290 or 300 tons, and are man-
ned by Chaou-chow men, from the eastern district of
Canton province. The major part of these junks
CHINESE JUNKS.
45
are owned, either by Chinese settlers at Bankok, or
by Siamese nobles. The former put on board as su-
percargo, some relative of their own, generally a
young man, who has married one of their daughters;
the latter take surety of the relatives of the person,
whom they appoint supercargo. If any thing hap-
pens to the junk, the individuals who secured her are
held responsible, and are often, very unjustly, thrown
into prison. Though the trade to the Indian archi-
pelago is not so important, yet about thirty or forty
vessels are annually dispatched thither from Siam.
Chinese vessels have generally a captain, who
might more properly be styled a supercargo. Whe-
ther the owner or not, he has charge of the whole
cargo, buys and sells as circumstances require; but
has no command whatever over the sailing of the
ship. This is the business of the Ho-chang or pilot.
During the whole voyage, to observe the shores and
promontories, are the principal objects, which occupy
his attention, day and night. He sits steadily on
the side of the ship, and sleeps when standing, just
as it suits his convenience. Though he has, nomi-
nally, the command over the sailors, yet they obey
him only when they find it agreeeble to their own
wishes; and they scold and brave him, just as if he
belonged to their own company. Next to the pilot
(or mate) is the To-kung (helmsman,) who mana-
ges the sailing of the ship; there are a few men un-
der his immediate command. There are, besides,
two clerks; one to keep the accounts, and the other
to superintend the cargo that is put on board. Also,
46
SIAM.
a comprador to purchase provisions; and a Heang-
kung, (or priest,) who attends to the idols, and burns,
every morning, a certain quantity of incense, and of
gold and silver paper. The sailors are divided into
two classes; a few, called Tow-muh (or head men,)
have charge of the anchor, sails, &c.; and the rest,
called Ho-ke, (or comrades,) perform the menial work,
such as pulling ropes, and heaving the anchor. A
cook and some barbers, make up the remainder of
the crew.
All these personages, except the second class of
sailors, have cabins; long, narrow holes, in which
one may stretch himself, but cannot stand erect. If
any person wishes to go as a passenger, he must ap-
ply to the Tow-mub, in order to hire one of their
cabins, which they let on such conditions as they
please. In fact, the sailors exercise full control over
the vessel, and oppose every measure, which they
think may prove injurious to their own interest; so
that even the captain and pilot are frequently obli-
ged, when wearied out with their insolent behavior,
to crave their kind assistance, and to request them to
show a better temper.
· The several individuals of the crew form one
whole, whose principal object in going to sea is trade,
the working of the junk being only a secondary ob-
ject. Every one is a shareholder, having the liberty
of putting a certain quantity of goods on board;
with which he trades, wheresoever the vessel may
touch, caring very little about how soon she may
arrive at the port of destination.
CHINESE SAILORS.
47
The common sailors receive from the captain nɔ-
thing but dry rice, and have to provide for them-
selves their other fare, which is usually very slender.
These sailors are not, usually, men who have been
trained up to their occupation; but wretches, who
were obliged to flee from their homes; and they fre-
quently engage for a voyage, before they have ever
been on board a junk. All of them, however stupid,
are commanders; and if any thing of importance is
to be done, they will bawl out their commands to
each other, till all is utter confusion. There is no
subordination, no cleanliness, no mutual regard or
interest.
The navigation of junks is performed without the
aid of charts, or any other helps, except the compass;
it is merc coasting, and the whole art of the pilot
consists in directing the course according to the pro-
montories in sight. In time of danger, the men im-
mediately lose all their courage; and their indecision
frequently proves the destruction of their vessel. Al-
though they consider our mode of sailing as some-
what better than their own, still they can not but
allow the palm of superiority to the ancient craft of
the 'Celestial Empire.' When any alteration for im-
provement is proposed, they will readily answer,—
if we adopt this measure we shall justly fall under
the suspicion of barbarism.
The most disgusting thing on board a junk is idol-
atry, the rites of which are performed with the
greatest punctuality. The goddess of the sea is Ma-
tsoo-po, called also Teen-how, "queen of heaven."
48
SIAM.
She is said to have been a virgin, who lived some
centuries ago in Fuhkeen, near the district of Fuh-
chow. On account of having, with great fortitude,
and by a kind of miracle, saved her brother who was
on the point of drowning, she was deified, and loaded
with titles, not dissimilar to those bestowed on the
Virgin Mary. Every vessel is furnished with an
image of this goddess, before which a lamp is kept
burning. Some satellites, in hideous shape, stand
round the portly queen, who is always represented
in a sitting posture. Cups of tea are placed before
her, and some tinsel adorns her shrine.
When a vessel is about to proceed on a voyage,
she is taken in procession to a temple, where many
offerings are displayed before her. The priest recites
some prayers, the mate makes several prostrations,
and the captain usually honors her by appearing in
a full dress before her image. Then an entertain-
ment is given, and the food presented to the idol is
greedily devoured. Afterwards the good mother,
who does not partake of the gross earthly substance,
is carried in front of a stage, to behold the minstrels,
and to admire the dexterity of the actors; thence
she is brought back, with music, to the junk, where
the merry peels of the gong receive the venerable
old inmate, and the jolly sailors anxiously strive to
seize whatever may happen to remain of her ban-
quet.
The care of the goddess is intrusted to the priest,
who never dares to appear before her with his face
unwashed. Every morning he puts sticks of burning
IDOLATROUS RITES.
40
incense into the censer, and repeats his ceremonies
in every part of the ship, not excepting even the
cook's room. When the junk reaches any promon-
tory, or when contrary winds prevail, the priest
makes an offering to the spirits of the mountains, or
of the air. On such occasions, (and only on such,)
pigs and fowls are killed. When the offering is duly
arranged, the priest adds to it some spirits and fruits,
burns gilt paper, makes several prostrations, and
then cries out to the sailors,-" follow the spirits,"
who suddenly rise and devour most of the sacrifice.
When sailing out of a river, offerings of paper are
constantly thrown out near the rudder. But to no
part of the junk are so many offerings made as to
the compass. Some red cloth, which is also tied to
the rudder and cable, is put over it; incense sticks in
great quantities are kindled; and gilt paper, made
into the shape of a junk, is burnt before it. Near
the compass, some tobacco, a pipe, and a burning
lamp are placed, the joint property of all; and hither
they all crowd to enjoy themselves. When there is
a calm, the sailors generally contribute a certain
quantity of gilt paper, which, pasted into the form
of a junk, is set adrift. If no wind follows, the
goddess is thought to be out of humor, and recourse
is had to the demons of the air. When all endea-
vors prove unsuccessful, the offerings cease, and the
sailors wait with indifference.
Such are the idolatrous principles of the Chinese.
that they never spread a sail without having concilia-
ted the favor of the demons, nor return from a voyage
5
50
SIAM.
without showing their gratitude to their tutelar deity.
Christians are the servants of the living God; who
has created the heavens and the earth; at whose
command the winds and the waves rise or are still;
in whose mercy is salvation, and in whose wrath is
destruction; how much more, then, should they en-
deavor to conciliate the favor of the Almighty, and
to be grateful to the Author of all good! If idolators
feel dependant on superior beings; if they look up
to them for protection and success; if they are punc-
tual in paying their vows; what should be the con-
duct of nations, who acknowledge Christ to be their
Saviour? Reverence before the name of the Most
High; reliance on his gracious protection; submis-
sion to his just dispensations; and devout prayers,
humble thanksgiving, glorious praise of the Lord of
the earth and of the sea, ought to be habitual on
board our vessels; and if this is not the case, the
heathen will rise up against us in the judgment, for
having paid more attention to their dumb idols, than
we have to the worship of the living and true God.
The Chinese sailors are, generally, as intimated
above, from the most debased class of people. The
major part of them are opium-smokers, gamblers,
thieves, and fornicators. They will indulge in the
drug till all their wages are squandered; they will
gamble as long as a farthing remains; they will put
off their only jacket and give it to a prostitute. They
are poor and in debt; they cheat, and are cheated by
one another, whenever it is possible; and when they
have entered a harbor, they have no wish to depart
CHINESE NAVIGATION.
51
till all they have is wasted, although their families.
at home may be in the utmost want and distress.
Their curses and imprecations are most horrible,
their language most filthy and obscene; yet they
never condemn themselves to eternal destruction.
A person who has lived among these men, would be
best qualified to give a description of Sodom and Go-
morrah, as well as to appreciate the blessings of Chris-
tianity; which, even in its most degenerate state,
proves a greater check on human depravity, than
the best-arranged maxims of men.
The whole coast of China is very well known to
the Chinese themselves. As their whole navigation
is only coasting, they discover, at a great distance,
promontories and islands, and are seldom wrong in
their conjectures. They have a directory, which,
being the result of centuries of experience, is pretty
correct, in pointing out the shoals, the entrances of
harbors, rocks, &c. As they keep no dead reckon-
ing, nor take observations, they judge of the distance
they have made by the promontories they have
passed. They reckon by divisions, ten of which are
about equal to a degree. Their compass differs ma-
terially from that of Europeans. It has several con-
centric circles; one is divided into four, and another
into eight parts, somewhat similar to our divisions
of the compass; a third is divided into twenty-four
parts, in conformity to the horary division of twenty-
four hours, which are distinguished by the same
number of characters or signs; according to these
52
SIAM.
divisions, and with these signs, the courses are mark-
ed in their directory, and the vessel steered.
China has, for centuries, presented to the Romanists
a great sphere for action. Latterly, the individuals
belonging to the mission, have not been so eminent
for talents as their predecessors, and their influence
has greatly decreased. Although the tenets of their
religion are proscribed, some individuals belonging
to their mission, have always found their way into
China; at the present time they enter principally by
the way of Fuhkeen. It would have been well, at
the time they exercised a great influence over the
mind of Kaug-he, if,-by representing the European
character in its true light, and showing the advan-
tages to be derived from an open intercourse with west-
- nations, they had endeavored to destroy the
wall of separation, which has hitherto debarred the
Chinese from marching on in the line of national
improvement. Their policy did not admit of this ;
the only thing they were desirous of, was to secure
the trade to the faithful children of the mother
church, and the possession of Macao to the Portu-
guese. In the latter they succeeded; in the former
all their exertions have been baffled by the superior
enterprising spirit of protestant nations; and their
own system of narrow policy has tended, not only to
exclude themselves from what they once occupied,
but to excite the antipathy of the Chinese govern-
ment against every stranger.
Protestant missionaries, it is to be hoped, will adopt
a more liberal policy: while they preach the glorious
EFFORTS FOR CHINA.
53
Gospel of Christ, they will have to show that the
spread of divine truth opens the door for every use-
ful art and science; that unshackled commercial re-
lations will be of mutual benefit; and that foreign-
ers and Chinese, as inhabitants of the same globe,
and children of the same Creator, have an equal
claim to an amicable intercourse, and a free recipro-
cal communication. Great obstacles are in the way,
and have hitherto prevented the attainment of these
objects; but, nevertheless, some preparatory steps
have been taken; such as the completion of a Chi-
nese and English dictionary, by one of the most dis-
tinguished members of the protestant mission;* the
translation of the Bible; the publication of tracts on
a great variety of subjects; the establishment of the
Anglo-Chinese college, and numerous schools; and
other different proceedings, all for the same purpose.
One of the greatest inconveniences in our opera-
tions has been, that most of our labors, with the ex-
ception of those of Drs. Morrison and Milue, were
confined to Chinese from the Canton and Fuhkeen
provinces, who annually visit the ports of the Indian
archipelago, and of whom many become permanent
residents abroad. When the junks arrived in those
ports, we were in the habit of supplying them with
books, which found their way to most of the empo-
riums of the Chinese empire. As no place, south of
China, is the rendezvous of so many Chinese junks
* By Dr. Morrison. We see also advertised in the Chinese Re-
pository, another Chinese dictionary, prepared by the author of this
Journal.-Pub.
5*
54
SIAM.
as Siam, that country has been the most important
station for the distribution of Christian and scientific
books. And, moreover, a missionary residing there,
and coming in contact with a great many people
from the different provinces, may render himself en-
deared to them, and so gain an opportunity of en-
tering China, without incurring any great personal
risk.
All these advantages had long ago determined the
minds of Mr. Tomlin and of myself, to make an
attempt to enter China in this unobtruding way;
but indisposition snatched from my side a worthy
fellow-laborer, and peculiar circumstances prolonged
my stay in Siam, till a great loss in the death of a
beloved partner, and a severe illness, made me anx-
ious to proceed on my intended voyage. Although
I had been frequently invited to become a passenger,
yet my first application to the captain of a junk,
destined to Teen-tsin, the commercial emporium of
the capital, met with a repulse. This junk after-
wards left Siam in company with us, and was never
more heard of. The refusal of Jin, the captain, was
re-echoed by several others; till, unexpectedly, the
Siamese ambassador, who had to go to Peking this
year, promised to take me gratis to the capital, in the
character of his physician. He had great reason to
desire the latter stipulation, because several of his
predecessors had died for want of medical assistance.
I gladly hailed this opportunity of an immediate en-
trance into the country, with a desire of doing every
thing that Providence should put in my way, and
PREPARATIONS FOR THE VOYAGE.
55
enable me to accomplish. But I was sorely disap-
pointed; for by the intervention of a gentleman,
who wished to detain me in Siam, the ambassador
did not fulfil his proposals.
CHAPTER II.
DURING this interval of uncertainty, my indispo-
sition had increased to an alarming degree; when I
was surprised by the arrival of one of my mercan-
tile Chinese friends, a native of the eastern part of
Canton province, who felt himself interested in taking
me to China. He used every argument to prevail on
me to embark; but, as I was verging so fast to the
grave, I was reluctant to comply. Nevertheless
Lin-jung (for this was the man's name) succeeded,
for his arguments were imperious; and I agreed
with captain Sin-shun, the owner of the junk Shun-
le, to embark in his vessel for Teen-tsin. This
junk was of about two hundred and fifty tons bur-
den, built in Siam, but holding its license from Can-
ton; it was loaded with sapan-wood, sugar, pepper,
feathers, calicues, &c., and was manned by about
fifty sailors.
The 3d of June was the day appointed for our de-
56
VOYAGE TO CHINA.
parture. Mr. Hunter, Capt. Dawson, and Mr. Mac-
Dalnac, had the kindness to accompany me on board
the junk. I am under very great obligations to the
first of these gentlemen, for his frequent and ready
support to the utmost of his power, of any measures
that could tend towards the civilization of the natives.
When I got on board, my cabin in the steerage, was
pointed out to me; it was a hole, only large enough
for a person to lie down in, and to receive a small
box. I had six fellow-passengers. One of them, a
captain sixty years of age, was obliged to become a
passenger, because his own junk was unseaworthy,
having sprung a leak whilst moored in the Meinam.
He was my declared enemy; a master in opium-
smoking (using the drug to the amount of about one
dollar per day); a man thoroughly versed in all sorts
of villainy; and averse to the instruction of his
countrymen; though, at the same time, he was well
aware of the superiority of Europeans, and knew the
value of their arts. His son was an insolent youth,
well trained for mercantile transactions; and anxious
to amass wealth; he became my friend and neigh-
bor. My mercantile friend, already mentioned, had
a cabin beneath mine. He was remarkable for
deceitfulness, loquacity, childish pride, and unnatu-
ral crime. His companion in trade was wealthy,
self-sufficient, and debauched, but polite. In the
practice of wickedness and deceit, no one was su-
perior to captain Fo, another of my fellow-passen-
gers. This man had formerly been in command of
a Siamese junk, bearing tribute to China, and was
PASSENGERS AND CREW.
57
shipwrecked on the coast of Pulo Way. On his re-
lease from that island, he returned to Bankok. Being
skilful in various sorts of workmanship, especially in
painting and mechanics, he at length gained so
much property, that he was able, this year, to put
some hundred peculs of goods on board a junk, and
to proceed to China, where he had two wives still
living. He was devoted to opium, and prone to
lying; but, according to his own declaration, my best
friend.
Our captain, Sin-shun, was a friendly man, well
versed in the art of Chinese navigation; but, un-
happily, long habituated to opium-smoking. His
younger brother showed himself to be a man of truth;
he was my private friend and associate in every sort
of trouble. One of the captain's brothers-in-law was
the clerk; he denominated himself (from the mo-
ment I stepped on board,) my younger brother; paid
attention to the instructions of the Gospel; and ab-
stained from every sort of idolatry. The pilot claim-
ed cousinship with me, being (as he said) of the same
clan. He was little versed in the art of navigation,
but had never been so unlucky as to sail his junk on
shore. He was a man of a peaceful temper, a yield-
ing disposition, and a constant object of raillery to the
sailors. To all his good qualities, he added that of
opium-smoking, in which art he had made consider-
able proficiency. His assistant was quarrelsome, but
more attentive to the navigation than any other indi-
vidual on board; and he also, as is the case with
almost all the pilots, was trained up to the use of the
58
VOYAGE TO CHINA.
drug; after having inspired the delicious fumes, he
would often, against his inclination, sleep at his
watch. All the principal persons, on whom depend-
ed the management of the vessel, partook freely of
this intoxicating luxury; by which they were alter-
nately, and sometimes simultaneously, rendered unfit
for service.
When I embarked, though in a very feeble state
of body, I cherished the hope, that God, in his mercy,
would restore me again to health, if it were his good
pleasure to employ in his service a being so unwor-
thy as myself--the least, doubtless, of all my fellow-
laborers in the Chinese mission. I took with me a
large quantity of Christian books, and a small stock
of medicines, the remnant of a large remittance,
made, not long before, by some kind English friends.
I was also provided with some charts, a quadrant and
other instruments to be used in case of emergency.
Long before leaving Siam I became a naturalized
subject of the Celestial Empire, by adoption into the
clan or family of Kwo, from the Tung-an district in
Fuhkeen. I took, also, the name Shih-lee,-wore,
occasionally, the Chinese dress,—and was recognized
(by those among whom I lived,) as a member of the
great nation. Now, I had to conform entirely to the
customs of the Chinese, and even to dispense with
the use of European books. I gladly met all their
propositions, being only anxious to prepare myself
for death; and was joyful in the hope of acceptance
before God, by the mediatorial office of Jesus Christ.
My wish to depart from this life was very fervent, yet
DEPARTURE FROM BANKOK.
59
I had a sincere desire of becoming subservient to the
cause of the Redeemer, among the Chinese; and
only on this account I prayed to God for the pro-
longation of my life.
In three days after embarking, we passed down
the serpentine Meinam, suffering greatly from the
swarms of musquitoes, which are a better defence
to the country than the miserable forts built at the
mouth of the river. Such was my debility that I
could scarcely walk; I could swallow no food; and
for some time river-water alone served to keep me
alive. During the night of the 8th of June, I seemed
to be near my end; my breath almost failed, and I
lay stretched out in my berth, without the assistance
of a single individual; for my servant Yu, a Fuhkeen
man, thought and acted like all his countrymen, who
give a man up and leave him to his fate, as soon as
he is unable to eat rice. While in this exceedingly
depressed state, so much consciousness remained, that
I was able, at length, to rally a little strength, and
leave my cabin; scarcely had I reached the steerage,
when a strong vomiting fit freed me from the danger
of suffocation.
On the 9th day of June, we reached the bar,
where there is very little depth of water: here we
were detained for some time. Every vessel built in
Siam, has a Siamese noble for its patron; the patron
of our's was the highest officer in the kingdom, who
sent one of his clerks on board to see us safe out to
This man was greatly astonished at seeing me
on board a Chinese junk, and expressed some doubts
sea.
60
VOYAGE TO CHINA.
in regard to my safety. In fact, all my friends ex-
pressed their fears for my life, which might fall a prey,
either to the rapacity of the sailors, or to the villainy
of the mandarins. Many fearful dangers were pre-
dicted concerning me; there was not one individual
who approved of my course; and I had no other con-
solation than looking up to God, under the conside-
ration that I was in the path of duty. ·
In three days we were able to pass the bar, but it
was effected with much difficulty. When the tide
was in our favor, a cable was thrown out, by means
of which the vessel was moved forward, in a manner
which did high credit to the sailors.
The people treated me with great kindness; re-
gretted the loss of my wife, whom most of them had
seen and knew; and endeavored to alleviate my suf-
ferings, in a way which was very irksome. The
poor fellows, notwithstanding their scanty fare of salt
vegetables and dried rice, and rags hardly sufficient
to cover their nakedness, were healthy and cheerful,
and some of them even strong. They highly con-
gratulated me, that at length I had left the regions of
barbarians, to enter the Celestial Empire. Though
most of them were of mean birth, the major part
could read and took pleasure in perusing such
books as they possessed. In the libraries of some of
them, I was delighted to find our tracts. It has al-
ways afforded me the greatest pleasure, to observe
the extensive circulation of Christian books; this
gives me the confident hope, that God, in his great
mercv. will make the written word, the means of
DEATH OF HIS CHILD.
61
bringing multitudes of those who read it, to the
knowledge and enjoyment of eternal life.
The
On the 14th of June, some Siamese came on
board to search for me; not knowing their inten-
tions, I withdrew. If, at this moment, the message
they brought had been delivered to me, my feeble
frame would perhaps have fallen; but it was not till
long afterwards that I heard, that my dearest infant
daughter had died soon after I embarked.
mournful tidings excited the deepest grief. After
this, I passed several days alone in my cabin, which
was constantly filled with the vile smell of opium fu-
migation. As soon as the men laid down their pipes,
they would indulge in the most obscene and abomi-
nable language; thus adding offence to offence.
All this I had to bear patiently, till I acquired suffi-
cient strength to talk with them; I then admonish-
ed them, in the plainest terms; and, contrary to my
expectations, received, from some, apologies for their
ill-conduct towards me.
At length our passengers had all come on board,
and the men were beginning to heave the anchor,
when it was discovered that the junk was overload-
ed; a circumstance which very frequently occurs, as
every individual takes as many goods on board as he
pleases. The captain had now to go back to Ban-
kok; immediately on his return, some of the cargo
was discharged; and on June the 18th, we finally
got under weigh. But we moved very slowly along
the coast of the Siamese territory, attempting to sail
only when the tide was in our favor. Proceeding
6
62
VOYAGE TO CHINA.
eastward, we anchored near the promontory and city
of Bamplasoi, which is principally inhabited by Chi-
nese, and is celebrated for its fisheries and salt works.
Here the Siamese have some salt inspectors, and
keep the country in complete subjection. On the
19th, we espied Ko-kram,-formerly the resort of pi-
rates, it is an island with a temple on its summit, in
which is a representation of Budha in a sleeping
posture. On arriving at this place, the Chinese,
generally, make an offering to this indolent idol.
Those on board the richly laden junks, make an of-
fering of a pig; poor people, are satisfied with a fowl
or duck; both which offerings, are duly consumed
by the sailors, after having been exposed a short time
to the air. Concerning this practice, so repugnant
to common sense, I made some satirical remarks,
which met with the approbation of the sailors, who,
however, were not very anxious to part with the
offerings.
I now began to cherish the hope that my health
was recovering, and turned my attention to Chinese
books; but great weakness soon compelled me to
abandon the pursuit; and to pass my time in idle-
ness. My fellow-passengers, meantime, endeavored,
by various means, to keep up my spirits, and to
amuse me with sundry tales about the beauty of the
Celestial Empire. My thoughts were now more than
ever directed to my heavenly abode; I longed to be
with Christ, while I felt strong compassion for these
poor beings, who have no other home to hope for
than an earthly one.
PULO WAY.
63
After having passed cape Liant, which in most
charts is placed too far west by two degrees, we ap-
proached Chantibun, a place of considerable trade,
and inhabited by Siamese, Chinese, and Cochin-
Chinese. Pepper, rice, and betelnut, are found here
in great abundance; and several junks, principally
from Canton, are annually loaded wtth these articles.
Ships proceeding to China, might occasionally touch
here, and trade to advantage.
When my strength was somewhat regained, I
took observations regularly, and was requested, by
the captain and others, to explain the method of
finding the latitude and longitude. When I had
fully explained the theory, the captain wondered
that I brought the sun upon a level with the horizon
of the sea, and remarked, "if you can do this, you
can also tell the depth of the water." But as I was
unable to give him the soundings, he told me plain-
ly, that observations were entirely useless, and truly
barbarian. So I lost his confidence; which, how-
ever, was soon recovered, when I told him that in a
few hours we should see Pulo Way. On this island,
one hundred years ago, a British fort was erected;
but it was afterwards abandoned, on account of the
treachery of some Bugees troops, who murdered the
English garrison. During the civil wars in Cochin-
China, near the close of the last century, Kaung-
Shung, the late king, took refuge here, where he
lived, for several years, in a most wretched condition.
In the year 1790, he made a descent upon his own
territory, gained over a party, expelled the usurpers,
64
VOYAGE TO CHINA.
conquered Tonquin, and by the assistance of Adran,
a French missionary, improved the condition of his
whole empire. Some time back, the island was the
retreat of Malay pirates; but at present, it is the re-
sort only of a few fishermen, and is wholly covered
with jungle.
With the utmost difficulty we arrived at the mouth
of the Kang-kau river, in Camboja, where there is a
city, which carries on considerable trade with Singa-
pore, principally in rice and mats. The Cochin-
Chinese, pursuing a very narrow policy, shut the
door against improvement, and hinder, as far as they
can, the trade of the Chinese. They think it their
highest policy to keep the Cambojans in utter pover-
ty, that they may remain their slaves for ever.
Among the several junks at this place, we saw the
"tribute bearer," having on board the Siamese am-
bassador. Though the Siamese acknowledge, no-
minally, the sovereignty of China, and show their
vassalage, by sending to Peking, tribute of all the
productions of their own country; yet the reason of
their paying homage so regularly, is gain. The
vessels sent on these expeditions are exempt from du-
ty, and being very large, are consequently very pro-
fitable; but, the management of them is intrusted to
Chinese, who take care to secure to themselves a
good share of the gains. Within a few years seve-
ral of these junks have been wrecked.
On July 4th, we reached Pulo Condore, called by
the Chinese Kwun-lun. This island is inhabited by
Cochin-Chinese fishermen.
The low coast of Cam-
COAST OF CAMBOJA.
65
boja presents nothing to attract attention; but the
country seems well adapted for the cultivation of
rice. When we passed this place, the Cochin-Chi-
nese squadron, fearful of a descent of the Siamese on
Luknooi, were ready to repel any attack. Of eight
junks loaded with betelnut this year at Luknooi, and
destined to Teen-tsin, only four reached that harbor;
and of these, one was wrecked on her return voyage.
At this time, though I was suffering much from
fear and sickness, I found rich consolation in the
firm belief, that the Gospel of God would be carried
into China, whatever might be the result of the first
attempts. The perusal of John's Gospel, which de-
tails the Saviour's transcendent love, was encou-
raging and consoling, though as yet I could not see
that peculiar love extended to China; but God will
send the word of eternal life to a nation hitherto un-
visited by the life-giving influences of the Holy
Ghost. In these meditations, I tasted the powers of
the world to come, and lost myself in the adoration
of that glorious name, the only one given under
heaven whereby we must be saved. Under such
circumstances, it was easy to bear all the contempt
that was heaped on me; neither did the kindness
of some individuals make me forget, that there were
dishonest men around me, and that I owed my pre-
servation solely to the divine protection.
The coast of Tsiompa is picturesque, the country
itself closely overgrown with jungle, and thinly in-
habited by the aborigines, and by Cochin-Chinese
and Malays. I could gain very little information of
6*
66
VOYAGE TO CHINA.
this region; even the Chinese do not often trade
thither; but it appears, that the natives are in the
habit of sending their articles, to some of the neigh-
boring harbors, visited by the Chinese.
Here we saw large quantities of fish in every di-
rection, and good supplies of them were readily
caught. By chance, some very large ones were
taken; and a person who had always much influence
in the deliberations of the company advised, that
such should be offered to the mother of heaven, Ma-
tsoo-po. The propriety of this measure I disputed
strongly, and prevailed on the sailors not to enhance
their guilt, by consecrating the creatures of God to
idols.
From Pulo Condore the wind was in our favor,
and in five days we passed the coast of Cochin-China.
The islands and promontories of this coast have a
very romantic appearance; particularly Padaran,
Varela, and San-ho. Many rivers and rivulets dis-
embogue themselves along the coast; and the sea
abounds with fish, which seem to be a principal arti-
cle of food with the natives. Hundreds of boats are
seen cruising in every direction. The Cochin-Chi-
nese are a very poor people, and their condition has
been made more abject by the late revolution. Hence
they are very economical in their diet, and sparing
in their apparel. The king is well aware of his own
poverty and that of his subjects, but is averse to
opening a trade with Europeans, which might re-
medy this evil. The natives themselves are open
ISLAND OF HAINAN.
67
and frank, and anxious to conciliate the favor of
strangers.
On the 10th of July we saw Teen-fung, a high
and rugged rock. The joy of the sailors was ex-
treme, this being the first object of their native coun-
try which they espied. Teen-fung is about three or
four leagues from Hainan. This island is wholly
surrounded by mountains, while the interior has
many level districts, where rice and sugar are culti-
vated. There are aborigines, not unlike the inha-
bitants of Manilla, who live in the forests and
mountains; but the principal inhabitants are the
descendants of people, who, some centuries back,
came from Fuhkeen; and who, though they have
changed in their external appearance, still bear traces
of their origin, preserved in their language. They
are a most friendly people, always cheerful, always
kind. In their habits they are industrious, clean,
and very persevering. To a naturally inquisitive
mind they join love of truth, which, however, they
are slow in understanding. The Roman Catholic
missionaries very early perceived the amiableness of
this people, and were successful in their endeavors to
convert them; and to this day many of the people
profess to be Christians, and seem anxious to prove
themselves such.
Hainan is, on the whole, a barren country; and,
with the exception of timber, rice, and sugar, (the
latter of which is principally carried to the north of
China,) there are no articles of export. The inha-
bitants carry on some trade abroad; they visit Ton-
59
CHINA.
quin, Cochin-China, Siam, and also Singapore. On
their voyages to Siam, they cut timber along the
coasts of Tsiompa and Camboja; and when they
arrive at Bankok, buy an additional quantity, with
which they build junks. In two months a junk is
finished--the sails, ropes, anchor, and all the other
work, being done by their own hands. These junks
are then loaded with cargoes, saleable at Canton or
on their native island; and both junks and cargoes
being sold, the profits are divided among the builders.
Other junks, loaded with rice, and bones for ma-
nure, are usually despatched for Hainan.
During my residence in Siam, I had an extensive
intercourse with this people. They took a particu-
lar delight in perusing Christian books, and con-
versing on the precepts of the Gospel. And almost
all of those, who came annually to Bankok, took
away bocks, as valuable presents to their friends at
home. Others spoke of the good effects produced
by the books, and invited me to visit their country.
Humbly trusting in the mercies of our God and Re-
deemer, that he will accomplish, in his own time,
the good work which has been commenced, I would
invite some of my brethren to make this island the
sphere of their exertions, and to bring the joyful
tidings of the Gospel to a people anxious to receive
its precious contents.
As soon as the first promontory of the Chinese
continent was in sight, the captain was prompt and
liberal in making sacrifices, and the sailors were not
backward in feasting upon them. Great numbers
CHAOU-CHOW-FO0.
69
of boats appeared in all directions, and made the
scene very lively. We were becalmed in sight of the
Lema islands, and suffered much from the intense
heat. While there was not wind enough to ruffle
the dazzling surface of the sea, we were driven on
by the current to the place of our destination, Soak-
ah,* in Chaou-chow-foo, the most eastern department
of Canton province, bordering on Fuhkeen. This
district is extensive, and closely peopled. The in-
habitants occupy every portion of it; and must
amount, at a moderate calculation, to three or four
millions. Its principal ports, are Ting-hae (the chief
emporium,) Ampoh. Hae-eo, Kit-eo and Jeao-ping.
The people are, in general, mean, uncleanly, avari-
cious, but affable and fond of strangers. Necessity
urges them to leave their native soil, and more than
5000 of them go every year, to the various settle-
ments of the Indian archipelago, to Cochin-China,
and to Hainan, or gain their livelihood as sailors.
Being neighbors to the inhabitants of Fuhkeen,
the dialects of the two people are very similar, but in
their manners there is a great difference. This dis-
similarity in their customs, joined to the similarity
* The Chinese characters, and, consequently, the mandarin pro-
nunciation, of this and several other names in the following pages,
we are unable to ascertain; Mr. G. having only inserted, in the MS.
he left with us, the names of the places, according to their Fuhkeen
pronunciation. Ting-hae is Ching-hae-heen, and Jeao-ping is
Jaou-ping-heen. Hae-eo, and Kit-eo, we believe to be Hae-yang-
heen, and Kee-yang-heen. Soakah (or Shan-keo,) is a small port
near the mouth of the Jaou-ping river. Ampoh is the same as
Gan-po.
70
CHINA.
of their pursuits, has given rise to considerable rival-
ry, which, frequently, results in open hostility. But
the Fuhkeen men have gained the ascendancy, and
use all their influence to destroy the trade of their
competitors.
Our sailors were natives of this district, and anx-
ious to see their families after a year's absence. As,
however, our junk had no permit, we could not en-
ter the river of Soakah, but had to anchor in the
harbor of Nan-aou (or Namoh), whilst passage
boats came in all directions to carry the men to
their homes. Rice being very cheap in Siam, every
sailor had provided a bag or two, as a present to his
family. In fact, the chief thing they wish and work
for, is rice; their domestic accounts are regulated by
the quantity of rice consumed; their meals according
to the number of bowls of it boiled; and their exer-
tions, according to the quantity wanted. Every
substitute for this delicious food is considered meagre,
and indicative of the greatest wretchedness. When
they cannot obtain a sufficient quantity to satisfy
their appetites, they supply the deficiency of rice with
an equal weight of water. Inquiring whether the
western barbarians eat rice, and finding me slow to
give them an answer, they exclaimed; "O, the
sterile regions of barbarians, which produce not the
necessaries of life! Strange, that the inhabitants
have not, long ago, died of hunger!" I endeavored
to show them that we had substitutes for rice, which
were equal if not superior to it. But all to no pur-
pose; and they still maintained, that it is only rice
1
HARBOR OF NAMOH.
71
which can properly sustain the life of a human
being.
When most of the sailors had left the junk, I was
led to reflect on their miserable condition. Almost
entirely destitute of clothes and money, they return
home, and in a few days hurry away again to en-
counter new dangers, and new perils. But, however
wretched their present condition may be, their pros-
pects for eternity are far more deplorable. Repro-
bates in this life, they tremble to enter into eternity,
of which they have very confused ideas. They defy
God, who rules over the seas; they curse their pa-
rents who gave them life; they are enemies to each
other, and seem entirely regardless of the future;
they glory in their shame; and do not startle when
convicted of being the servants of Satan.
It was the 17th of July, when we anchored in the
harbor of Namoh. The island, from which this
harbor takes its name, is mostly barren rock, con-
sisting of two mountains connected by a narrow
isthmus, in lat. 26 deg. 28 min. N.; long. 116 deg.
39 min. E. It is a military station; it has a fort;
and is a place of considerable trade, which is carried
on between the people of Fuhkeen and Canton.
The harbor is spacious and deep, but the entrance
is difficult and dangerous.
The entrance of the Soakah river is
very shallow;
but numerous small craft, principally from Ting-hae,
are seen here. The duties, as well as the permit to
enter the river, are very high; but the people know
how to elude the mandarins; as the mandarins do
72
CHINA.
the emperor. Tinghae is a large place, tolerably
well built, and inhabited principally by merchants,
fishermen, and sailors. The productions of the sur-
rounding country are not sufficient to maintain the
inhabitants, who contrive various ways and means
to gain a livelihood. There is no want of capital or
merchants, but a great lack of honesty and upright
dealing.
As soon as we had anchored, numerous boats
surrounded us, with females on board, some of them
brought by their parents, husbands, or brothers. I
addressed the sailors who remained in the junk, and
hoped that I had prevailed on them, in some degree,
to curb their evil passions. But, alas! no sooner had
I left the deck, than they threw off all restraint; and
the disgusting scene which ensued, might well have
entitled our vessel to the name of Sodom. The
sailors, unmindful of their starving families at home.
and distracted, blinded, stupified by sensuality, seem-
ed willing to give up aught and every thing they
possessed, rather than abstain from that crime,
which entails misery, disease and death. Having
exhausted all their previous earnings, they became a
prey to reckless remorse, and gloomy despair. As
their vicious partners were opium-smokers by habit,
and drunkards by custom, it was necessary that
strong drink and opium should be provided; and
the retailers of these articles were soon present to
lend a helping hand. Thus, all these circumstan-
ces conspired to nourish vice, to squander property,
and to render the votaries of crime most unhappy.
PLOT OF THE SAILORS.
73
When all their resources failed, the men became
furious, and watched for an opportunity to reimburse
their loss, either by deceit or force. Observing my
trunks well secured, it was surmised by the sailors,
that they contained silver and gold; and a conspir-
acy was formed to cleave my head with a hatchet,
and to seize the trunks, and divide the money among
themselves. In favor of this scheme it was stated.
that I did not understand the use of money, and that
they themselves could appropriate it to the very best
advantage. All the persons who formed this plot
were Opium-smokers; the leader was an old sailor,
and, nominally, my friend. Just as they were about
to execute their plan, an old man came forward and
declared to them, that a few days before he had seen
the trunks opened, and that they contained nothing
but books, which they might obtain without cleaving
my head. Witnesses were then called, and it being
satisfactorily ascertained that such was the fact, in
regard to the trunks, they all agreed to desist from
the execution of their plot.
In the midst of such abominations, the feeble voice
of exhortation was not entirely disregarded. Some
individuals willingly followed my advice. A young
man, who had repeatedly heard the Gospel, and
anxiously inquired about his eternal destinies, was
reclaimed; and, covered with shame and penetrated
with a sense of guilt, he acknowledged the insuffi-
ciency of all moral precepts, if no heavenly principle
influenced the heart.
My visiters were very numerous; they generally
7
74
CHINA.
thought me to be a pilot or mate, and behaved very
politely. In the long conversations I held with them,
they seemed attentive, and not entirely ignorant of
the doctrines of Christianity; and they frequently
noticed as a proof of its power, the mere circum-
stance, that one of its votaries stood unmoved, while
the stream of vice carried away every thing around
him. To these visiters I distributed the word of life;
expressing my earnest wish, that it might prove the
means of their salvation. There was one old man,
who stated that he had two sons, literary graduates,
whom, as he himself was hastening to the grave, he
wished to see reading the exhortations to the world,
(so they call our Christian books.) I enjoyed myself
in the company of some other individuals, to whom.
it was intimated, that we should endeavor to estab-
lish a mission at this place, since so many millions
of their countrymen were without the means of
knowing the way of salvation.
The return of the captain, who had been on shore,
checked the progress of vice. Being a man of firm.
principle, he drove out the prostitutes, and brought
the men to order ;-his vigilance, however, was in
some instances eluded; but when those wretched
beings had obtained their money, (their great object,)
they, generally, of their own accord, abandoned the
junk. I had now full scope to speak to those around
me of the folly and misery of such conduct; and
I was successful in applying the discourse to them-
selves. The Chinese, generally, will bear with just
FAMINE-AMOY.
75
reproof, and even heap eulogiums on those who ad-
minister it.
Here I saw many natives famishing for want of
food; they would greedily seize, and were very
thankful for the smallest quantities of rice thrown
out to them. Though healthy, and strong, and able
to work, they complained of want of employment,
and the scarcity of the means of subsistence.* Urged
on by poverty, some of them become pirates, and in
the night time surprise and plunder the junks in the
harbor. When fourteen days had elapsed, all were
anxious to depart, because their treasure was ex-
hausted, and the opportunities for farther expendi-
tures were only the means of tantalizing and annoy-
ing them. As we were getting under weigh, an old
man predicted that we should have to encounter
storms; but this did not deter us from proceeding.
Many junks, loaded with sugar for the north of Chi-
na, left the harbor in company with us.
On July 30th, we passed Amoy, the principal
emporium of Fuhkeen province, and the residence of
numerous merchants, who are the owners of more
than 300 large junks, and who carry on an exten-
sive commerce, not only to all the ports of China,
* In the department of Chaou-chow-foo, to which these remarks
apply, as also in the neighboring province of Fuhkeen, and in the
adjoining department of Hwuy-chow-foo in this province, famine
has very generally prevailed during the last few months. Pirates,
consequently, abound, and insurrections have in several cases occur-
red; numbers of peasants also are induced, by hunger and want of
employment, to join the secret associations of banditti which infest
China, particularly its southern provinces.
76
FORMOSA.
but to many also in the Indian archipelago. Not-
withstanding the heavy duties levied on exports and
imports, these merchants maintain their trade, and
baffle the efforts of the mandarins. They would
hail with joy any opportunity of opening a trade with
Europeans, and would, doubtless, improve upon that
of Canton.
On the following day, favorable winds continued
till we reached the channel of Formosa (or Tea-wan.)
This island has flourished greatly since it has been
in the possession of the Chinese, who go thither,
generally, from Tung-an in Fuhkeen, as colonists,
and who gain a livelihood by trade, and the cultiva-
tion of rice, sugar, and camphor. Formosa has se-
veral deep and spacious harbors, but all the entrances
are extremely shallow. The trade is carried on
in small junks belonging to Amoy; they go to all
the western ports of the island, and either return
loaded with rice, or go up to the north of China with
sugar. The rapidity with which this island bas
been colonized, and the advantages it affords for the
colonists to throw off their allegiance, have induced
the Chinese government to adopt restrictive mea-
sures; and no person can now emigrate without a
permit. The colonists are wealthy, and unruly;
and hence there are numerous revolts, which are re-
pressed with great difficulty, because the leaders,
withdrawing to the mountains, stand out against the
government to the very uttermost. In no part of
China are executions so frequent as they are here,
and in no place do they produce a less salutary influ-
ence.
TING-HAE-STORM.
77
The literati are very successful; and people
in Fuhkeen sometimes send their sons to Formosa
to obtain literary degrees.
Northerly winds, with a high sea, are very fre-
quent in the channel of Formosa. When we had
reached Ting-hae, in the department of Fuh-chow-
foo, the wind, becoming more and more adverse,
compelled us to change our course; and fearing that
stormy weather would overtake us, we came to an-
chor near the island of Ma-oh, (or Ma-aou,) on which
the goddess Ma-tsoo-po is said to have lived. Here
we were detained some time. The houses on the
coast, are well built; the people seemed poor, but
honest; and are principally employed in fishing, and
in rearing gourds. Their country is very rocky.
Small
A few miles in the interior are the tea hills, where
thousands of people find employment. The city of
Fuh-chow-foo, the residence of the governor of Fuh-
keen and Chekeang, is large and well built.
vessels can enter the river; the harbor of Ting-hae
is deep, and very spacious. We saw there numer-
ous junks laden with salt, also some fishing craft.
When we were preparing to leave the harbor, an-
other gale came on, and forced us to anchor; but in-
stead of choosing an excellent anchorage which was
near to us, a station was selected in the neighbor-
hood of rocks, where our lives were placed in great
danger. The next day the storm increased, and the
gale became a tornado, which threatened to whelm
us in the foaming billows. The junk was exposed
to the united fury of the winds and waves, and we
7*
78
CHINA.
expected every moment that she would be dashed
in pieces. The rain soon began to descend in tor-
rents, and every part of the vessel was thoroughly
drenched.
For several days Egyptian darkness hung over
us: with composure I could look up to God our Sa-
viour, could rejoice in his promises, and was fully
confident, that he would neither leave nor forsake
11s. I was almost the only person who ventured on
deck; for it is customary with the Chinese, in bad
weather, to take shelter and repose in their cabins,
till the tempest is over. At the present juncture,
they were dispelling their cares by sleeping and
opium-smoking.
Notwithstanding all this, they formed a plot, prin-
cipally on account of the riches which they supposed
me to possess, to sink the junk, to seize on the mo-
ney, and then to flee in a small boat to the neigh-
boring shore. Having gained some information of
their designs, I left my cabin and walked near them
with wonted cheerfulness. The ring-leaders seeing
this, and observing the approach of a Canton junk
at the same time, desisted from their treacherous
scheme.
It was most evident that these heroes in wicked-
ness were cowards; they trembled, and their courage
failed them, in the hour of approaching death. For
ten days we were in suspense between life and
death; when, at length, God in his mercy sent
again his sun to shine, and clothed the firmament
with brightness. I could now feel with Noah, and
TEMPLE OF MA-TSOO-PO.
79
render praise to God our great benefactor. While
I was thus engaged, some of our fellow-passengers
went on shore; unconscious of the object of their
visit, I was rather puzzled when I saw them return-
ing in their state dress; but soon suspected, (what
was true,) that they had been to the temple of Ma-
tsoo-po, to render homage to their protectress. At
such an act of defiance, after such a signal deliver-
ance, I was highly indignant, and rebuked them
sharply. One of them held his peace; the other
acknowledged his guilt, and promised, in future, to
be more thankful to the Supreme Ruler of all things.
He remarked, that it was only a pilgrimage to the
birth place of the goddess, and that he had only
thrice prostrated himself before her image. I told
him, that on account of such conduct he had great
reason to fear the wrath of God would overtake him;
when he heard that, he kept a solemn silence.
The temple of Ma-tsoo-po is not very splendid,
though it has been built at a great expense. The
priests are numerous, and well maintained, the num-
ber of pilgrims being very great. When we were
about to sail, a priest came on board with some can-
dlesticks and incense, which, being sacred to the
goddess, had power, it was supposed, to secure the
vessel against imminent dangers. He held up in his
hand a biography of the goddess, and was eloquent
in trying to persuade the people to make large offer-
ings. The priest belonging to our junk replied to
him, "We are already sanctified, and need no ad-
ditional goodness;-go to others who are wanting in
80
CHINA.
devotion." I improved this opportunity to remark
on the sinfulness of paying homage to their goddess;
and reminded them how, during the storm, the idol
shook and would have fallen into the sea, if they
had not caught it with their own hands. The
priest, anxious to maintain his ground, said, "Ah!
she was angry." I replied, "she is weak-away
with an image that cannot protect itself-cast it into
the sea, and let us see if it has power to rescue
itself."
The people from the tea plantations, who came on
board our junk, were civil, and characterized by a
simplicity of manner which was very commendable.
I conversed much with them, asked them many
questions, and was pleased with the propriety and
correctness of their answers.
Before we left Namoh, our captain, the owner of
the junk, attracted by the pleasures of domestic life,
had charged his uncle with the management of the
vessel, and left us. This new captain was an elderly
man, who had read a great deal, and who could write
with readiness, and was quite conversant with the
character of Europeans. These good qualities, how-
ever, were clouded by his ignorance of navigation,
and by his habitual roguishness. His younger bro-
ther, a proud man and without experienee, was a
mere drone. He had a bad tough, and was covered
with the itch; and being my mess-mate, he was ex-
ceedingly annoying, and often spoiled our best meals.
Our daily food was rather sparing-it consisted prin-
cipally of rice, and of salted and dried vegetables.
CONVERSATIONS ON BOARD.
81
When any thing extra was obtained, it was seized
so greedily, that my gleanings were scanty indeed;
yet I trusted in the Lord, who sweetened the most
meagre meals, and made me cheerful and happy
under every privation.
A large party was, at one time, formed against
me, who disapproved of my proceedings as a mis-
sionary. My books, they said, were not wanted at
Teen-tsin; there were priests enough already, and
they had long ago made every needful provision for
the people. And as for medical aid, there were hun-
dreds of doctors, who, rather than allow me to do it,
would gladly take charge of the poor and the sick.
Moreover, they all expressed their fears that I should
become a prey to rogues, who are very numerous
throughout China. But when I told them that I
proceeded as the servant of Shang-te (the Supreme
Ruler), and did not fear the wrath of man in a good
cause, they held their peace. By a reference to the
immorality of their lives, I could easily silence all
their objections;-"If you are really under the in-
fluence of the transforming laws of the Celestial Em-
pire, as you all affirm, why do those rules prove so
weak a restraint on your vicious practices, whilst the
Gospel of Christ preserves its votaries from wicked-
ness and crime?" They replied, "We are indeed
sinners, and are lost irremediably."-" But," I in-
quired, “have you never read the books I gave you,
which assure us that Jesus died for the world ?”.
"Yes, we have; but we find that they contain much
which does not accord with the truth." To show
82
CHINA.
them that they were wrong, I took one of the books
of Scripture and went through it, sentence by sen-
tence, showing them that the Gospel was not only
profitable for this life, but also for the life to come.
This procedure put them to shame; and from that
time they ceased to offer their objections, and admit-
ted the correctness of the principles of the Gospel,
and their happy tendency on the human heart.
As soon as we had come in sight of the Chu-san (or
Chow-shan) islands, which are in lat. 29 deg. 22 min.
N., we were again becalmed. The sailors, anxious
to proceed, collected among themselves some gilt pa-
per, and formed it into the shape of a junk; and,
after marching a while in procession to the peal of
the gong, launched the paper junk into the sea, but
obtained no change of weather in consequence of
this superstitious rite; the calm still continued, and
was even more oppressive than before.
The city of Chu-san (or Chow-shan), situated in
at 30 deg. 26 min. N., has fallen into decay since
it has ceased to be visited by European vessels; its
harbor, however, is the rendezvous of a few native
junks. Ning-po, which is situated a short distance
westward of Chusan, is the principal emporium of
Che-keang province. Native vessels, belonging to
this place, are generally of about two hundred tons
burden, and have four oblong sails, which are made
of cloth. These vessels, which are similar to those
of Keangnan province, trade mostly to the north of
China: copper cash, reduced to about one half the
SEANGHAE-LETO.
$3
value of the currency, is their principal article of
export.
About the 20th of August we reached the mouth
of the river Yang-tsze-keang, on the banks of which
stands the city of Seanghae (Shang-hae-heen), the
emporium of Nanking, and of the whole of Keang-
nan province; and, as far as the native trade is con-
cerned, perhaps the principal commercial city in the
empire. It is laid out with great taste; the temples
are very numerous; the houses, neat and comforta-
ble; and the inhabitants polite, though rather servile
in their manners. Here, as at Ning-po, the trade is
chiefly carried on by Fuhkeen men. More than a
thousand small vessels go up to the north, several
times annually, exporting silk and other Keangnan
manufactures, and importing peas and medical drugs.
Some few junks, owned by Fuhkeen men, go to the
Indian archipelago, and return with very rich cargoes.
It was with great difficulty that we reached the
extremity of the Shantung promontory, in lat. 37
deg. 23 min. N.; and when we did so, the wind
continuing unfavorable, we cast anchor at Leto (Le-
taou, an island in the bay of Sang-kow), where there
is a spacious and deep harbor, surrounded by rocks,
with great shoals on the left side. This was on the
23d of August. There were several vessels in the
harbor, driven thither by the severity of the weather.
At one extremity of Leto harbor a small town is
situated. The surrounding country is rocky, and
productive of scarcely any thing, except a few fruits.
The houses are built of granite, and covered with
84
CHINA.
sea-weeds; within they were very poorly furnished.
The people themselves were rather neat in their ap-
pearance, and polite in their manners, but not of high
attainments. Though very little conversant with
their written character, they nevertheless spoke the
mandarin dialect better than I had ever before heard.
They seemed very poor, and had few means of sub-
sistence; but they appeared industrious, and labored
hard to gain a livelihood. I visited them in their
cottages, and was treated with much kindness—even
invited to a dinner, where the principal men of the
place were present. As their attention was much
attracted towards me, being a stranger, I took occa-
sion to explain the reason of my visiting their coun-
try, and amply gratified their curiosity. They paid
me visits in return; some of them called me Se-
yang-tsze,"child of the western ocean ;" and others
a foreign-born Chinese; but the major part of them
seemed to care little about the place of my nativity.
Apples, grapes, and some other fruits we found
here in abundance; and such refreshments were
very acceptable after having lived for a long time on
dry rice and salt vegetables. Fish also were plenti-
ful and cheap. The common food of the inhabi-
tants is the Barbadoes millet, called kaou-leang;
they grind it in a mill, which is worked by asses, and
eat it like rice. There are several kinds of the leang
grain, which differ considerably in taste as well as in
size.
Some sales were made here, but the people were
too poor to trade to any considerable extent.
It
CAPTAIN EO.
85
worthy of remark that, in the very neighborhood of
the place where Confucius was born, the moral pre-
cepts of that sage are (as I had opportunity to wit-
ness) trampled upon, and even when referred to are
treated with scorn. Here our sailors, especially those
who went to visit the temple of Ma-tsoo-po, were
again ensnared by wretched women-the most de-
graded beings I ever beheld. But the poor fellows
soon felt the consequences of their wicked conduct;
for some of them had not only to sell their little stock
of merchandise, but were also visited with loathsome
disease. Often did they lament their folly; and as
often did they remark, that they had no power to
become better men. Some of my fellow passengers,
when they had recovered their senses, felt keenly
the stings of conscience. Captain Eo was among
this number;"I am a forlorn wretch," said he;
"in vain I strive against vice, every day brings me
nearer eternal destruction." Though he endeavor-
ed to stifle remorse, by placing an idol in his cabin,
and by repeating his "O-me-to-Fuh," (i. e. Amida
Budha, an expression which commences most pray-
ers to that deity,) yet all his efforts were in vain;
his heart became more depraved, his superstitions.
more strong, and he seemed utterly incorrigible. He
would often remark, as I sat with him in his cabin,
talking about the Gospel of Christ,-"I have no
friend; all my vicious companions forsook me when
I was wrecked on Pulo Way; the little property I
now have is only sufficient to support myself alone;
but I have a family at home, who are looking to me
8
86
CHINA.
for support, while I am giving myself up to folly and
vice." The body of this poor man was emaciated,
and he passed most of his time in sleep. Occasion-
ally he would enter into conversation with captain
Hae, his neighbor, who was a great proficient in ini-
quitous schemes and practices. In conversation,
during the night-time, they would relate to each
other the particulars of their feats; it was painful to
hear their narrations, especially when I remembered
that, in the case of Eo, they proceeded from the lips
of a hoary-headed man, who, after a wicked life of
more than sixty years, was fast verging to the grave.
O what must be the company of hell, where all the
heroes of wickedness meet, and hold eternal inter-
course, making daily progress in sin!
Although my sentiments were entirely at variance
with those of Eo, he frequently showed me marks of
real kindness, lamented my lonely state, and feared
that I should fall a prey to wicked men, because I
was over righteous. He would sometimes give me
accounts of geography, according to the popular no-
tions of the Chinese, which he considered as the
only correct ones, and ours as altogether erroneous.
As he was a painter he drew a map, in which Africa
was placed near Siberia, and Corea in the neighbor-
hood of some unknown country, which he thought
might be America. Though his ideas were ridicu-
lous, he possessed a good understanding; and had
he not been debased by idolatry and crime, he might
have formed a talented and useful member of society.
But, alas! Satan first debars God's creatures from
OPINIONS RESPECTING EUROPE.
87
improvement, and then reduces them to the level of
brutes.
The vessels of the last English Embassy touched,
it seems, at Leto, and their stay there was still fresh
in the recollection of the natives. They frequently
referred to those majestic ships, which might have
spread destruction in every direction; and to this
day they are over-awed and tremble, even at the
mention of the Kea-pan* ships, as European vessels
are denominated. I was closely questioned on this
subject, but as I was not well informed respecting the
expedition, I could give them no satisfactory an-
swers; I was able, however by describing the cha-
racter of Europeans, in some degree, to quiet their
minds. "If," said I, "they had come to injure you,
they would have done so immediately, but as they
came and went away peaceably, they ought to be
considered as the friends of the Chinese." My rea-
soning, however, was of little avail;-"They were
not traders," they replied; "if they had been, we
should have hailed them as friends; but they came
with guns, and as men never do any thing without
design, they must have had some object, and that ob-
ject must have been conquest. Those mandarins
who did not inform the emperor of their arrival were
severely punished; and how could this have been
done, if he had not perceived an ultra design?"
Europe is supposed, by a great majority of the
Chinese, to be a small country, inhabited by a few
* We are unable to ascertain the meaning of this term Kea-pan.
It may perhaps be derived from Captain or some other foreign word.
88
CHINA.
merchants, who speak different languages, and who
maintain themselves principally by their commerce
with China. With a view to correct their ideas, I
gave them some account of the different nations
who inhabit Europe, but all to no purpose; the po-
pular belief, that it is merely a small island, contain-
ing only a few thousands of inhabitants, was too
strong to be removed.
They were anxious, however, to know from
whence all the dollars came, which are brought to
China; and when I told them more of the western
world, they expressed a wish to go thither, because
they thought gold and silver must be as abundant
there, as granite is in China; but when I told them
that in going thither they could see no land for
many days, they became unwilling to engage for
such a voyage;-"For where," they earnestly in-
quired, “shall we take shelter and come to anchor,
when storms overtake us? And whither shall we
find refuge when once we are wrecked ?"
Though they soon abandoned the idea of visiting
Europe, they were still desirous to gain some more
information about dollars, and requested me to teach
them the art of making them of tin or lead; for
many of them believe that the English are able, by
a certain process, to change those metals into silver.
As they considered me an adept in every art, except
divinity, they were much disappointed when I told
them, that I neither understood the secret, nor be-
lieved that there was any mortal who did. This
statement they discredited, and maintained that the
KE-SHAN-SO.
89
English, as they were rich and had many great
ships and splendid factories in Canton, and had no
means of obtaining riches except by this art, must of
necessity be able to change the inferior metals into
gold. This same strange notion is believed in Siam;
and I have been earnestly importuned by individu-
als to teach them this valuable art; silver ore has
been sent to me also with the request, that I would
extract the silver, and form it into dollars. The rea-
son of their so frequently conspiring against me
seems to have been, that I acted with liberality and
honesty towards every one, and did not engage in
trade; and hence they inferred that I made silver
and coined money, and by these means had always
a stock on hand, sufficient to defray my expenses.
After staying several days at Leto, we again got
under weigh; but the wind being still unfavorable,
we proceeded slowly, and on the 2d September came to
anchor in the deep and spacious harbor of Ke-shan-
$0. The town from which this harbor takes its
name is pleasantly situated, and its environs are well
cultivated. The people were polite and industrious;
they manufacture a sort of cloth, which consists.
partly of cotton, and partly of silk; it is very strong,
and finds a ready sale in every part of China. They
are wealthy, and trade to a considerable extent with
the junks which touch here on their way to Teen-
tsin. Many junks were in the harbor at the same
time with ours, and trade was very brisk. On shore,
refreshments of every description were cheap. The
people seemed fond of horsemanship; and while we
8*
90
CHINA.
were there, ladies had horse-races, in which they
greatly excelled. The fame of the English men-of-
war had spread consternation and awe among the
people here; and I endeavored, so far as it was in
my power, to correct the erroneous opinions which
they had entertained.
Vice seemed as prevalent here as at Leto; the
sailors borrowed money in advance, and before we
left the harbor, every farthing of it was expended.
I predicted to them that such would be the conse-
quence of their vicious conduct;-that prediction was
now fulfilled, the poor fellows became desperate, and,
as they had no other object on which to vent their
rage but myself, they exceedingly wearied and an-
noyed me. Did 1 ever offer an earnest prayer to
God, it was at this time; I besought him to be
gracious to them and to me, and to make a display
of his almighty power, in order to convince them of
their nothingness, and to console and strengthen my
own heart. The following morning the weather
was very sultry; I was roused from sleep by loud
peals of thunder; and soon after I had awaked, the
lightning struck our junk; the shock was awfully
tremendous; the masts had been split from top to
bottom, but, most mercifully, the hull had received no
injury. This event spread consternation among the
sailors, and with dejected countenances, they scarcely
dared to raise their heads, while they looked on me
as the servant of Shang-te, and as one who enjoyed
his protection. From this time they ceased to ridi-
cule me, and on the other hand treated me with great
KAN-CHOW-THE PEI-HO.
91
respect. The elements seemed, at this time, to have
conspired against us, winds and tide were contrary,
and our progress was scarcely perceptible.
In the neighborhood of Ke-shan-so is Kan-chow,
one of the principal ports of Shantung. The trading
vessels anchor near the shore, and their supercargoes
go up to the town by a small river. There is here a
market for Indian and European merchandise, al-
most all kinds of which bear a tolerable price. The
duties are quite low, and the mandarins have very
little control over the trade. It may be stated that,
in general, the Shantung people are far more honest
than the inhabitants of the southern provinces, though
the latter treat them with disrespect, as greatly their
inferiors.
On the 8th of September we passed Ting-ching,
a fortress situated near the shore, on the frontiers of
Chihle and Shantung provinces; it seemed to be a
pretty large place, surrounded by a high wall. We
saw some excellent plantations in its vicinity, and
the country, generally, presented a very lively aspect,
with many verdant scenes, which the wearied eye
seeks for in vain, on the naked rocks of Shantung.
On the 9th we were in great danger. Soon after
we had anchored near the mouth of the Pei-ho (or
Pih-ho, the White river), a gale suddenly arose, and
raged for about six hours. Several junks, which
had left the harbor of Leto with us, were wrecked;
but a merciful God preserved our vessel. As the
wind blew from the north, the agreeable tempera-
ture of the air was soon changed to a piercing cold.
92
CHINA.
Though we were full thirty miles distant from the
shore, the water was so much blown back by the
force of the wind, that a man could easily wade over
the sand bar; and our sailors went out in different
directions to catch crabs, which were very numerous.
But in a few days afterwards, a favorable south
wind blew, when the water increased, and rose to
the point from which it had fallen. In a little time
large numbers of boats were seen coming from the
mouth of the river, to offer assistance in towing the
junk in from the sea.
We had approached a considerable distance to-
wards the shore before we saw the land, it being
almost on a level with the sea. The first objects
which we could discern were two small forts; these
are situated near the mouth of the river, and within
the last few years have been considerably repaired.
The natives, who came on board, were rather rude
in manners, and poorly clothed. Scarcely had we
anchored, when some opium dealers from Teen-tsin
came along side; they stated, that in consequence
of the heir of the crown having died by opium-
smoking, very severe edicts had been published
against the use of the drug, and that because the
difficulty of trading in the article at the city was so
great, they had come out to purchase such quantities
of it as might be for sale on board our junk.
The entrance of the Pei-ho presents nothing but
scenes of wretchedness; and the whole adjacent
country seemed to be as dreary as a desert. While
the southern winds blow, the coast is often over-
LAST ENGLISH EMBASSY.
93
flowed to a considerable extent; and the country more
inland affords very little to attract attention, being
diversified only by stacks of salt, and by numerous
tumuli which mark the abodes of the dead. The
forts are nearly square, and are surrounded by single
walls; they evince very little advance in the art of
fortification. The people told me, that when the
vessels of the last English embassy were anchored
off the Pei-ho, a detachment of soldiers-infantry
and cavalry—was sent hither to ward off any attack
that might be made. The impression made on the
minds of the people by the appearance of those ships
is still very perceptible. I frequently heard unre-
strained remarks concerning barbarian fierceness and
thirst after conquest, mixed with eulogiums on the
equitable government of the English at Singapore.
The people wondered how a few barbarians, without
the transforming influence of the Celestial Empire,
could arrive at a state of civilization very little infe-
rior to that of "the middle kingdom." They re-
joiced that the water at the bar of the Pei-ho was
too shallow to afford a passage for men-of-war (which,
however, is not the case; when the south wind pre-
vails, there is water enough for ships of the largest
class); and, that its course was too rapid to allow
the English vessels to ascend the river. While these
things were mentioned with exultation, it was re-
marked by one who was present, that the barbarians
had "fire-ships," which could proceed up the river
without the aid of trackers; this remark greatly
astonished them, and excited their fears; which,
94
CHINA.
however, were quieted when I assured them that
those barbarians, as they called them, though valiant,
would never make an attack unless provoked, and
that if the Celestial Empire never provoked them,
there would not be the least cause to fear.
Though our visiters here were numerous, they
cared very little about me, and treated me in the
same manner as they did the other passengers. Most
of the inhabitants, who reside near the shore, are
poor fishermen; their food consists, almost exclu-
sively, of Barbadoes millet, boiled like rice, and
mixed with water in various proportions, according
to the circumstances of the individuals;-if they
are rich, the quantity of water is small; if poor, as
is usually the case, the quantity is large. They eat
with astonishing rapidity, cramming their mouths
full of millet and vegetables-if they are fortunate
enough to obtain any of the latter. Most of the
inhabitants live in this way; and only a few persons
who are wealthy, and the settlers from Keangnan,
Fuhkeen, and Canton provinces enjoy the luxury of
rice. In a district so sterile as this, the poor inha-
bitants labor hard and to little purpose, in trying to
obtain from the productions of the soil the means of
subsistence.
The village of Ta-koo, near which we anchored,
is a fair specimen of the architecture along the banks
of the Pei-ho, and it is only on the banks of the
river, throughout these dreary regions, that the people
fix their dwellings. The houses are generally low
and square, with high walls towards the streets; they
WRETCHEDNESS OF THE PEOPLE.
95
are well adapted to keep out the piercing cold of win-
ter, but are constructed with little regard to con-
venience. The houses of all the inhabitants, how-
ever rich, are built of mud, excepting only those of
the mandarins, which are of brick. The hovels of
the poor have but one room, which is, at the same
time, their dormitory, kitchen, and parlor. In these
mean abodes, which, to keep them warm, are stopped
up at all points, the people pass the dreary days of
winter; and often with no other prospect than that
of starving. Their chief enjoyment is the pipe.
Rich individuals, to relieve the pressing wants of the
populace, sometimes give them small quantities of
warm millet; and the emperor, to protect them
against the inclemency of the season, compassion-
ately bestows on them a few jackets. I had much
conversation with these people, who seemed to be
rude but hardy, poor but cheerful, and lively but
quarrelsome. The number of these wretched beings
is very great, and many, it is said, perish annually
by the cold of winter. On account of this overflow-
ing population, wages are low, and provisions dear ;
most of the articles for domestic consumption are
brought from other districts and provinces; hence
many of the necessaries of life--even such as fuel,
are sold at an enormous price. It is happy for this
barren region, that it is situated in the vicinity of the
capital; and that large quantities of silver-the chief
article of exportation-are constantly flowing thither
from the other parts of the empire.
Some mandarins from Ta-koo, came on board our
96
CHINA.
junk; their rank and the extent of their authority
were announced to us by a herald who preceded them.
They came to give us permission to proceed up the
river; this permission, however, had to be bought by
presents, and more than half a day was occupied in
making the bargain.
(6
Before we left this place, I gave a public dinner to
all on board, both passengers and sailors. This in-
duced one of their company to intimate to me, that
in order to conciliate the favor of Ma-tsoo-po, some
offerings should be made to her. I replied, "Never,
since I came on board, have I seen her even taste of
the offerings made to her; it is strange that she
should be so in want, as to need any offerings from
me."
But," answered the man, "the sailors will
take care that nothing of what she refuses is lost."
"It is better," said I, "to give directly to the sailors,
whatever is intended for them; and let Ma-tsoo-po,
if she is really a goddess, feed on ambrosia, and not
upon the base spirits and food which you usually
place before her; if she has any being, let her pro-
vide for herself; if she is merely an image, better
throw her idol with its satellites into the sea, than
have them here to encumber the junk."-"These
are barbarian notions," rejoined my antagonist,
"which are so deeply rooted in your fierce breast, as
to lead you to trample on the laws of the Celestial
Empire."-"Barbarian reasoning is conclusive rea-
soning," I again replied; "if you are afraid to throw
the idol into the waves, I will do it, and abide the
consequences. You have heard the truth, that there
PASSAGE UP THE RIVER.
97
is only one God, even as there is only one sun in the
firmament. Without his mercy, inevitable punish-
ment will overtake you, for having defied his au-
thority, and given yourself up to the service of dumb
idols; reform, or you are lost!"
The man was
silenced and confounded, and only replied "Let the
sailors feast, and Ma-tsoo-po hunger."
As soon as we were again ready to proceed, about
thirty men came on board to assist in towing the
junk; they were very thinly clothed, and seemed to
be in great want; some dry rice that was given
to them they devoured with inexpressible delight.
When there was not wind sufficient to move the
junk, these men, joined by some of our sailors,
towed her along against the rapid stream; for the
Pei-ho has no regular tides, but constantly flows
into the sea with more or less rapidity. During the
ebb tide, when there was not water enough to enable
us to proceed, we stopped and went on shore.
The large and numerous stacks of salt along the
river, especially at Teen-tsin, cannot fail to arrest the
attention of strangers. The quantity is very great,
and seems sufficient to supply the whole empire; it
has been accumulating during the reign of five em-
perors; and it still continues to accumulate. This
salt is formed in vats near the sea shore; from thence
it is transported to the neighborhood of Ta-koo,
where it is compactly piled up on hillocks of mud,
and covered with bamboo mattings; in this situation
it remains for some time, when it is finally put into
bags and carried to Teen-tsin, and kept for a great
9
98
CHINA.
number of years, before it can be sold. More than
eight hundred boats are constantly employed in
transporting this article-and thousands of persons
gain a livelihood by it, some of whom become very
rich the principal salt merchants, it is said, are the
richest persons in the empire.
Along the banks of the Pei-ho are many villages
and hamlets, and are all built of the same material
and in the same style as at Ta-koo. Large fields
of Barbadoes millet, pulse, and turnips, were seen in
the neighborhood; these were carefully cultivated
and watered by women-who seem to enjoy more
liberty here than in the southern provinces. Even
the very poorest of them were well dressed; but
their feet were much cramped, which gave them a
hobbling gait, and compelled them to use sticks when
they walked. The young and rising population
seemed to be very great. The ass-here a rather
small and meagre animal-is the principal beast
employed in the cultivation of the soil. The imple-
ments of husbandry are very simple, and even rude.
Though this country has been inhabited for a great
many centuries, the roads for their miserable car-
riages are few, and in some places even a foot-path
for a lonely traveller can scarcely be found.
My attention was frequently attracted by the in-
scription Tsew-teen, "wine-tavern," which was writ-
ten over the doors of many houses. Upon inquiry
I found that the use of spirituous liquors, especially
that distilled from suh-leang grain, was very gene-
ral, and intemperance, with its usual consequences,
99
QUARRELS OF THE SAILORS.
very prevalent. It is rather surprising that no wine
is extracted from the excellent grapes which grow
abundantly on the banks of the Pei-ho, and consti-
tute the choicest fruit of the country. Other fruits,
such as apples and pears, are found here, though in
kind they are not so numerous, and in quality are
by no means so good as those of Europe.
We proceeded up the river with great cheerful-
ness; the men who towed our junk took care to
supply themselves well with rice, and were very active
in their service. Several junks were in company
with us, and a quarrel between our sailors and some
Fuhkeen men broke out, the consequences of which
might have been very serious. Some of our men
had already armed themselves with pikes, and were
placing themselves in battle array, when, happily,
terms of peace were agreed on by a few of the senior
members of the party. Several years ago a quar-
rel, which originated between two junks, brought all
the Fuhkeen and Chaou-chow men in the neighbor-
hood into action; both parties fought fiercely, but
confined themselves principally to loud and boister-
ous altercation; the mandarins, who always know
how to profit by such contentions, soon took a lively
interest in the affair, and by endeavoring to gain
something from the purses of the combatants, imme-
diately restored peace and tranquillity among them.
Similar consequences were feared in the present case,
on which account the men were the more willing to
desist from the strife; they were farther prompted to
keep peace by the prospect of trading with some
100
CHINA.
merchants, who had come on board for that object.
Indeed, as the voyage was undertaken for the pur-
pose of trading, our men constantly engaged in that
business; and when there were no opportunities of
trading with strangers, they would carry on a traffic
among themselves; but, unhappily, their treasure
did not always increase so fast as the cargo dimi-
nished.
My anxiety was greatly increased by our approach
to Peking. A visit to the capital of the Chinese
empire--an object of no little solicitude, after many
perils, and much loss of time, was now near in
prospect. How this visit would be viewed by the
Chinese government, I knew not; hitherto they had
taken no notice of me; but a crisis had now come;
as a missionary anxious to promote the welfare of
my fellow creatures, and more willing to be sacrificed
in a great cause, than to remain an idle spectator of
the misery entailed on China by idolatry, I could
not remain concealed at a place where there are so
many mandarins,-it was expected that the local
authorities would interfere. Almost friendless, with
small pecuniary resources, without any personal
knowledge of the country and its inhabitants, I was
forced to prepare for the worst. Considerations of
this kind, accompanied by the most reasonable con-
jecture, that I could do nothing for the accomplish-
ment of the great enterprise, would have intimidated
and dispirited me, if a power from on High had not
continually and graciously upheld and strengthened
me. Naturally timid and without talent and re-
THOUGHTS ON APPROACHING PEKING.
101
sources in myself, yet by divine aid—and by that
alone, I was foremost in times of danger, and to
such a degree, that the Chinese sailors would often
call me a bravado.
Fully persuaded that I was not prompted by self-
interest and vain glory, but by a sense of duty as a
missionary, and deeply impressed by the greatness
and all-sufficiency of the Saviour's power and gra-
cious assistance enjoyed in former days, I grounded
my hope of security on protection under the shadow
of his wings, and my expectation of success on the
promises of his holy word. It has long been the
firm conviction of my heart, that in these latter days
the glory of the Lord will be revealed to China; and
that, the dragon being dethroned, Christ will be the
sole king and object of adoration throughout this ex-
tensive empire. This lively hope of China's speedy
deliverance from the thraldom of Satan by the hand
of our great Lord, Jesus Christ-the king of kings,--
to whom all nations, even China, are given as an
inheritance, constantly prompts me to action, and
makes me willing rather to perish in the attempt of
carrying the Gospel to China, than to wait quietly
on the frontiers-deterred by the numerous obstacles
which seem to forbid an entrance into the country.
I am fully aware that I shall be stigmatized as a
head-strong enthusiast, an unprincipled rambler, who
rashly sallies forth, without waiting for any indica-
tions of divine providence, without first seeing the
door opened by the hand of the Lord;-as one fond
of novelty, anxious to have a name, fickle in his
?
9*
102
CHINA.
purposes, who leaves a promising field, and restless
hurries away to another, all of whose endeavors
will not only prove useless, but will actually impede
the progress of the Savior's cause. I shall not be
very anxious to vindicate myself against such
charges-though some of them are very well found-
ed, until the result of my labors shall be made
known to my accusers. I have weighed the argu-
ments for and against the course I am endeavoring
to pursue, and have formed the resolution to publish
the Gospel to the inhabitants of China Proper, in all
the ways and by all the means, which the Lord our
God appoints in his word and by his providence ;-
to persevere in the most indefatigable manner so
long as there remains any hope of success,-and
rather to be blotted out from the list of mortals, than
to behold with indifference the uncontrolled triumph
of Satan over the Chinese. Yet still, I am not
ignorant of my own nothingness, nor of the formi-
dable obstacles, which on every side shut up the
way, and impede our progress; and I can only say,
"Lord, here I am, use me according to thy holy
pleasure."
Should any individuals be prompted to extol my
conduct, I would meet and repel such commenda-
tion by my thorough consciousness of possessing
not the least merit; let such persons rather than
thus vainly spend their breath, come forth, and join
in the holy cause with zeal and wisdom superior to
any who have gone before them; the field is wide,
the harvest truly great, and the laborers are few.
IDOL MANUFACTORY.
103
Egotism, obtrusive monster! lurks through these
pages; it is my sincere wish, therefore, to be com-
pletely swallowed up in the Lord's great work, and
to labor unknown and disregarded, cherishing the
joyful hope, that my reward is in heaven, and my
name, though a very unworthy one, written in "the
book of life." I return to my detail.
In the afternoon, September 22d, we passed a
grove, on the left bank of the river Pei-ho, which is
said to have been visited by the Emperor Keen-lung.
It contains a few houses, but is at present a mere jun-
gle. On the opposite bank we observed a shop,
having a sign with this inscription, written in large
capitals, Idols and Budhas of all descriptions new-
ly made and repaired. This sign told plainly the
condition of the people around me, and called forth
earnest intercession on their behalf.
104
CHAPTER III.
THE scene, as we approached Teen-tsin, became
very lively. Great numbers of boats and junks, al-
most blocking up the passage, and crowds of people
on shore, bespoke a place of considerable trade.
After experiencing much difficulty from the vessels
which thronged us on every side, we, at length,
came to anchor in the suburbs of the city, in a line
with several junks lately arrived from Soakah, and
were saluted by the merry peals of the gong. I had
been accustomed to consider myself quite a stranger
among these people, and was therefore surprised to
see the eyes of many of them immediately fixed ou
me. My skill as a physician was soon put in requi-
sition. The next day, while passing the junk on
my way to the shore, I was hailed by a number of
voices, as the seensang-"teacher," or "doctor;"
and, on looking around me, I saw many smiling faces,
and numerous hands stretched out to invite me to
sit down. These people proved to be some of my
old friends, who, a long time before, had received
medicines and books, for which they still seemed
very grateful. They lauded my noble conduct in
leaving off barbarian customs, and in escaping from
the land of barbarians, to come under the shield of
TEEN-TSIN-MEDICAL PRACTICE.
105
the son of heaven." They approved of my design
"son
in not only benefiting some straggling rascals (ac-
cording to their own expression) in the out-ports of
China, but in coming also a great distance, to assist
the faithful subjects of the Celestial Empire. They
knew even that seensang neang, "the lady teach-
er," (my late wife,) had died; and condoled with me
on account of my irreparable loss.
It very soon appeared that I was known here as
a missionary, as well as in Siam; and hence I
thought it my duty to act boldly, but at the same
time with prudence. Some captains and pilots, af-
flicted either with diseased eyes, or with rheumatism,
were my first patients. They lived in a miserable
hovel near the banks of the river, and were preparing.
to smoke the "delicious drug," when I entered, and
upbraided them sharply for their licentiousness.
From my severe remarks on their conduct, they
concluded that I had some remedy for the use of the
drug, and intimated their opinion to others. The
success of my first practice gained me the esteem
and friendship of a whole clan or tribe of the Chi-
nese, who never ceased to importune me to cure their
natural or imaginary physical defects. The diseas-
es of the poorer classes, here, seemed as numerous
as in any part of India. They generally complain-
ed of the unskilfulness of their doctors, whose blun-
ders I had frequently to correct. Chinese doctors
are, usually, unsuccessful literati, or persons fond of
study. They claim the title of doctor as soon as
they have read a number of books on the subject of
106
CHINA.
medicine, without showing by practice that they are
entitled to the appellation. Their minute examina-
tion of the pulse, which is frequently very correct,
gives them some claim to the title of able practition-
ers. Anatomy, a correct knowledge of which must
be gained from dissection, the Chinese regard as
founded on metaphysical speculations, and not in
truth. Their materia medica is confined chiefly to
herbs, which are the principal ingredients of their
prescriptions. They have some very excellent plants,
but injure and weaken their effect by mixing them
up as they do, often sixty or seventy in one dose.
They generally foretell the precise time of the pa-
tient's restoration, but are often found mistaken.
To stand against men of this description, who are
so very wise in their own imagination, was not an
easy task; but I always convinced them, by facts,
that our theories, when reduced to practice, would
have the most salutary effect.
Kam-sea, a merchant of considerable property
from Fuhkeen, and a resident at Teen-tsin, invited
me to his house; this was on the 15th of the 8th
moon, and consequently during the Chung-tsew*
* That is, the festival of middle-autumn. This is a very great
festival among the Chinese, and is observed partially throughout
the whole month, by sending presents of cakes and fruit from one
person to another; but it is chiefly celebrated on the 15th and 16th
days on the 15th, oblations are made to the moon, and on the 16th,
the people and children amuse themselves with what they call "pur-
suing the moon." The legend respecting this popular festival is,
that an emperor of the Tang dynasty being led, one night, to the pa-
lace of the moon, saw there an assembly of nymphs, playing on in-
struments of music; and, on his return, commanded persons to
dress and sing, in imitation of what he had seen.
RESIDENCE IN THE CITY.
107
festival. Mandarins in great numbers hastened to
the temples; priests dressed in black,-friars and
nuns clothed in rags; and an immense number of
beggars paraded the streets; and when I passed,
filled the air with their importunate cries. All the
avenues were thronged; and in the shops,-gene-
rally filled with Chinese manufactures, but some-
times also with European commodities,―trade
seemed to be brisk. The town, which stretches
several miles along the banks of the river, equals
Canton in the bustle of its busy population, and sur-
passes it in the importance of its native trade. The
streets are unpaved; and the houses are built of
mud but within they are well furnished, with ac-
commodations in the best Chinese style. A great
many of the shop-keepers, and some of the most
wealthy people in the place are from Fuhkeen; and
the native merchants, though well trained to their
business, are outdone by the superior skill of the
traders from the south.
Kam-sea's house is situated in the middle of the
city, and is well furnished; he received me cordially,
and offered me a commodious room. The crowd of
people at his house was great, and many questions
were asked by them concerning me; but as the
Fuhkeen men acknowledged me to be their fellow-
citizen, these questions were easily set at rest. A
mandarin of high rank, who heard of my arrival,
said "This man, though a stranger, is a true Chi-
nese; and, as several persons seem anxious to pre-
vent his going up to the capital, I will give him a
108
CHINA.
A
passport, for it would be wrong, that, after having
come all the way from Siam, he should not see the
dragon's face."
The curiosity to see me was, during several days,
very great; and the captain's anxiety much increas-
ed, when he saw that I attracted the attention of
so many individuals. There were some, who even
muttered that I had come to make a map of the
country, in order to become the leader in a premedi-
tated assault on the empire. Yet all these objec-
tions were soon silenced, when I opened my medi-
cine chest, and with a liberal hand supplied every
applicant. God, in his mercy, bestowed a blessing
on these exertions, and gave nie favor in the eyes
of the people. Several persons of rank and influ-
ence paid me frequent visits, and held long conver-
sations with me. They were polite and even ser-
vile in their manners. Their inquiries, most of
them trivial, were principally directed to Siam; and
their remarks concerning Europe were exceedingly
childish. The concourse of people became so great,
at length, that I was obliged to hide myself. A gen-
tleman, who lived opposite to the house where I re-
sided, wishing to purchase me from the captain,
with a view to attract customers by my presence,
offered to pay for me the sum of 2000 taels of silver
(about 2700 dollars.) My patients had now become
so numerous as to engross all my attention; from
very early in the morning till late at night, I was
constantly beset by them, aud often severely tried.
Yet I had frequent opportunities of making known
PLAN OF GOING TO PEKING.
109
to them the doctrines of the Gospel, and of pointing
out the way of eternal life.
It had been my intention to proceed from Teen-
tsin up to Peking, a journey which is made in two
days. To effect this, it would have been necessary
to learn the dialect spoken in this province, and to
have obtained the acquaintance of some persons, re-
sident at the capital. For the accomplishment of
the first, there was not sufficient time, unless I
should resolve to abandon the junk in which I had
arrived, and to stay over the winter; but for the at-
tainment of the latter, some individuals very kindly
offered their services. I thought it best, therefore, to
stay and to observe the leadings of Providence. Some
experiments, which I made, to cure the habit of
opium-smoking, proved so successful, that they at-
tracted general notice; and drew the attention of
some mandarins, who even stooped to pay me a visit,
and to request my aid, stating that his imperial ma-
jesty was highly enraged, because so many of his
subjects indulged in this practice. But, as soon as
the Chaou-chow and Fuhkeen men observed that
the native patients were becoming too numerous,
they got angry, saying, "This is our doctor, and not
yours;" and, as this argument was not quite intelli-
gible, they drove many of the poor fellows away by
force. In a few days, moreover, the whole stock of
medicines I had with me was exhausted, and I had
to send away with regret, those poor wretches, who
really stood in want of assistance.
In the mean time our men went on with their
10
110
CHINA.
trade. Under the superintendance of some officers
who had farmed the duties, they began to unload,
and to transport the goods to the store-houses. Many
a trick was played in order to avoid the payment of
duties, although they were very light. Indeed, the
sailors' merchandise was almost entirely exempt from
all charges. As soon as the goods were removed to
the ware-houses, the resident merchants made their
purchases, and paid immediately for their goods in
sycee silver. These transactions were managed in
the most quiet and honest manner, and to the bene-
fit of both parties. On the sugar and tin very little
profit was gained, but more than one hundred per
cent. was made on the sapan-wood and pepper, the
principal articles of our cargo. European calicoes
yielded a profit of only fifty per cent.; other commo-
dities, imported by Canton men, sold very high. On
account of the severe prohibitions, there was a stag-
nation in the opium trade. One individual, a Canton
merchant, had been seized by government; and
large quantities of the drug, imported from Canton,
could find no purchasers.
The trade of Teen-tsin is quite extensive. More
than five hundred junks arrive annually from the
southern ports of China, and from Cochin-China,
and Siam. The river is so thronged with junks,
and the mercantile transactions give such life and
motion to the scene, as strongly to remind one of
Liverpool. As the land in this vicinity yields few
productions, and the capital swallows up immense
stores, the importations, required to supply the wants
TRADE OF TEEN-TSIN.
111
of the people, must be very great. Though the
market was well furnished, the different articles com-
manded a good price. In no other port of China is
trade so lucrative as in this; but no where else are
so many dangers to be encountered. A great many
junks were wrecked this year; and this is the case
every season;* and hence the profits realized on the
whole amount of shipping, are comparatively small.
Teen-tsin would open a fine field for foreign enterprise;
there is a great demand for European woollens, but the
high prices which they bear, prevent the inhabitants
from making extensive purchases. I was quite sur-
prised to see so much sycee silver in circulation.
The quantity of it was so great, that there seemed
to be no difficulty in collecting thousands of taels, at
the shortest notice. A regular trade with silver is
carried on by a great many individuals. The value
of the tael, here, varies from thirteen to fourteen hun-
dred cash. Some of the firms issue bills, which are
as current as bank-notes in England. Teen-tsin,
possessing so many advantages for commerce, may
very safely be recommended to the attention of
European merchants.
By inquiries, I found, that the people cared very
little about their imperial government. They were
only anxious to gain a livelihood and accumulate
riches. They seemed to know the emperor only
by name, and were quite unacquainted with his
* The Canton Gazette, of March, 1832, states, that more than one
half of the Chinese junks, bound to Teen-tsin the year previous,
were wrecked.-Pub.
112
CHINA.
character. Even the military operations in western
Tartary were almost unknown to them. Nothing
had spread such consternation amongst them as the
late death of the heir of the crown, which was occa-
sioned by opium-smoking. The emperor felt this
loss very keenly. The belief that there will be a
change in the present dynasty is very general. But
in case of such an event, the people of Teen-tsin
would hear of it with almost as much indifference,
as they would the news of a change in the French
government. The local officers were generally much
dreaded, but also much imposed upon. They are
less tyrannical here, in the neighborhood of the em-
peror, judging from what the people told me, than
they are in the distant provinces. When they ap-
pear abroad it is with much pageantry, but with lit-
tle real dignity. Indeed, I saw nothing remarkable
in their deportment. No war junks, nor soldiers
were to be met with,-though the latter were said
to exist. To possess fire-arms is a high crime, and
the person found guilty of so doing, is severely pun-
ished. Bows and arrows are in common use. There
are no military stores;-but great stores of grain.
The grain junks were, at this season, on their return
home.
The features of the inhabitants of this district
more resemble the European, than those of any
Asiatics I have hitherto seen. The eye had less of
the depressed curve in the interior angle, than what
is common, and so characteristic, in a Chinese coun-
tenance. And, as the countenance is often the in-
MANNERS OF THE PEOPLE.
113
dex of the heart, so the character of these people is
more congenial to the European, than is that of the
inhabitants of the southern provinces. They are
not void of courage; though they are too grovelling
to undertake any thing arduous or noble, and too
narrow-minded to extend their views beyond their
own province and the opposite kingdom of Corea.
They are neat in their dress; the furs which they
wear are costly; their food is simple; and they are
polite in their manners. The females are fair, and
tidy in their appearance,―enjoy perfect liberty, and
walk abroad as they please.
The dialect spoken by the inhabitants of Teen-tsin
abounds with gutturals; and for roughness is not
unlike the language of the Swiss. The people speak
with amazing rapidity, scarcely allowing time to
trace their ideas. Though their dialect bears consi-
derable resemblance to the mandarin, yet it contains
so many local phrases, and corruptions of that di-
alect, as to be almost unintelligible, to those who are
acquainted only with the mandarin tongue.
The natives here seemed to be no bigots in re-
ligion. Their priests were poorly fed, and their
temples in bad repair. The priests wear all kinds
of clothing; and, except by their shaved heads, can
scarcely be distinguished from the common people.
Frequently, I have seen them come on board the
junk to beg a little rice, and recite their prayers,
with a view to obtain money. But, notwithstand-
ing the degradation of the priests, and the utter con-
tempt in which their principles and precepts are held,
10*
[14
CHINA.
every house has its lares, its sacrifices, and offer-
ings; and devotions (if such they may be called)
are performed, with more strictness even than by the
inhabitants of the southern provinces. Such con-
duct is a disgrace to human nature, and without ex-
cuse; "because that which may be known of God
is manifest in them; for God hath showed it un-
to them." (Rom. i. 19.) Yet, prostituting the
knowledge of a supreme ruler, they bow down be-
fore an image of wood or stone, and say,-"this is
my Creator."
I made many inquiries, in order to ascertain
whether there were any Roman Catholics in this
part of the country, but no trace, not even of their
having once been here, could be found. There
were Mohammedans, however, and with some of
them I had opportunities of conversing. They
seemed tenacious enough of their creed, so far as it
regarded food, they would not even dine with a
heathen, but in their notions of deity they were not
at all correct. In their dress, they differ very little
from their heathen neighbors; and they are quite
like them also in their morals. Though they are
somewhat numerous, they never influence public
opinion, or show any anxiety to make proselytes.
The number of inhabitants which belong to the
middling classes, properly so called, is not large.
A few individuals are immensely rich; but the great
mass of the population are sunk in abject poverty.
I saw very little among the inhabitants of Teen-tsin,
that could give them a just claim to be called a
THEIR INDUSTRY AND POVERTY.
115
literary people. They are industrious, but not skill-
ful workmen; and even their industry furnishes few
articles for exportation. In a few manufactures,
such as tapestry, coarse woollens, and glass, they
succeed well. With such an overflowing popula-
tion, it would be wise policy in the government, to
allow emigration, and to open a trade with foreign
nations, in order to furnish sufficient employment
and sustenance for the increasing multitudes of
people; otherwise, there is reason to fear, lest, ere
long, pressed by want and hunger, they fall back
upon and destroy those, whom they have been
taught to revere as their political fathers. I am in-
clined to believe, from all that I have seen of this
people, that they are susceptible of great improve-
ment, and that reform might more reasonably be
expected among them, because of the extreme sim-
plicity of their manners. Teen-tsin, as has been
already observed, presents an inviting field to the
enterprising merchant; but to the Christian phi-
lanthropist, whose attention may be directed to
these regions, it not only affords an inviting field,
but presents claims-claims which ought not to be
disregarded.
Our sailors, having disposed of their part of the
cargo, and obtained their full wages, gave themselves
up to gambling-the general diversion of this place.
Nor did they desist from this practice until most of
them had lost every thing they possessed. They
had now to borrow money in order to purchase
clothes to protect them against the inclemency of the
116
CHINA.
!
weather; new scenes of contention and quarrelling
were daily exhibited; and the lives, as well as the
persons of some individuals, put in great jeopardy.
They also indulged freely in the use of spirituous
liquors, which were very strong and intoxicating;
and finally they betook themselves to wretched fe-
males. In these circumstances their misery was ex-
treme; several of them were seized upon by their
creditors, some hid themselves, and others absconded.
As we had arrived here so late in the season, just
at the time when many of the junks were about
leaving, it was necessary to shorten our stay, lest the
Pei-ho, freezing up should detain us over the win-
ter. On the 17th of October we began to move
slowly down the river. Before leaving Teen-tsin I
received numerous presents, which were accompa-
nied with many wishes for my welfare. A great
many persons came to take an affectionate leave of
me at our departure. At the earnest request of some
individuals, I was constrained to promise that, if God
should permit, I would return the next year; and,
in the case of such a visit, some of them engaged to
accompany me to the capital-while others wanted
to make with me a journey overland from Teen-tsin
to Hea-mun (Amoy). I can scarcely speak in too
high terms of the kindness I enjoyed during the
whole time I was at this place; and the reason for
such unexpected treatment I must ascribe to the
merciful interposition of the Almighty, under whose
banner I entered on this undertaking. The favor
and kindness experienced in Teen-tsin were a rich
FRONTIERS OF TARTARY.
117
compensation for my former bereavements and trials.
My health also was again restored, and I could
cheerfully perform the duties devolving upon me.
We all had provided ourselves with furs; and we
were now, at length, proceeding to Leaou-tung, which
is situated on the north of the gulf of Petchelee, on
the frontiers of Mantchou Tartary. As Teen-tsin
furnishes no articles for maritime exportation except
the tsaou, or “date," the junks arriving there sell their
cargo, and then proceed to some of the ports of Leaou-
tung, where a part of their money is invested in peas
and drugs. Though we had the current in our favor,
we were a long time in reaching Ta-koo, and this
because the sailors were fonder of gambling than of
working the junk. At Ta-koo we were delayed several
days, waiting for our captain and one of the passen-
gers, who were left behind. While at this place I was
invited by the port master to dine with him on shore,
but was prevented by the inclemency of the wea-
ther; several physicians, also, came on board, to
consult with me concerning difficult cases, and re-
ceived my instructions with much docility. After
further delay, occasioned by a strong north wind, we
finally got under weigh, October 28th, with a native
pilot on board. We soon passed the Sha-loo-poo-teen
islands; and, having a very strong breeze in our
favor, arrived at the harbor of Kin-chow, in the dis-
trict of Fung-teen-foo, about fifteen leagues distant
from Moukden, the celebrated capital of Mantchou-
ria. The persons with whom I conversed about the
place told me that it differed very little from the
2
118
CHINA.
other cities in this district. The Mantchou Tartars
who live hereabouts are numerous, and lead an idle
life, being principally in the employ of the emperor,
either directly or indirectly. There seems to be but
little jealousy between them and the laboring class
of Chinese.
There are two other harbors in this district, viz.,
Nan-kin (or southern Kin-chow, so called to distin-
guish it from the northern place of the same name),
and Kae-chow. The latter is the most spacious and
deep, and is capable of containing a large fleet.
The harbor of Kin-chow is shallow, surrounded by
rocks, and exposed to southern gales. Junks cannot
approach within several miles of the shore, and all
the cargo must be brought off in lighters. This
country abounds with peas, drugs, and cattle of every
kind. It is, on the whole, well cultivated, and inha-
bited principally by Mantchou Tartars, who, in their
appearance, differ very little from the Chinese. The
Fuhkeen men, here, also, have the trade at their
command; and quite a large number of junks an-
nually visit the harbors of Leaou-tung.
It was a long time after we arrived at Kin-chow
before we could go on shore, on account of the high
sea. It became generally known among the inha-
bitants, ere I had left the junk, that I was a physi-
cian, and anxious to do good; and I was, therefore,
very politely invited to take up my residence in one
of the principal mercantile houses. It was midnight
when we arrived on shore, and found a rich enter-
tainment and good lodgings provided. The next
KIN-CHOW-TEMPLES.
119
morning crowds thronged to see me; and patients
were more numerous than I had any where else
found them, and this because they have among
themselves no doctors of any note. I went imme-
diately to work, and gained their confidence in a
very high degree. There was not in the whole
place, nor even in the circuit of several English
miles, one female to be seen. Being rather surprised
at such a curious fact, I learned, on inquiry, that the
whole female population had been removed by the
civil authorities, with a view to prevent debauchery
among the many sailors who annually visit this port.
I could not but admire this arrangement, and the
more especially, because it had been adopted by
heathen authorities, and so effectually put a stop to
every kind of licentiousness.
Kin-chow itself has very little to attract the atten-
tion of visiters; it is not a large or handsome place.
The houses are built of granite (which abounds
here); and are without any accommodations, except
a peculiar kind of sleeping places, which are formed
of brick, and so constructed, that they can be
heated by fires kindled beneath them.
On the summit of a high mountain in the neigh-
borhood there is a small temple, and also several
others on the low ground in the vicinity. One of
the latter I visited: it was constructed in the Chi-
nese style, and the idols in it were so deformed, that
they even provoked a smile from my Chinese guide.
In the library of one of the priests I found a treatise
on repentance, consisting of several volumes. There
120
CHINA.
are here many horses and carriages; but the car
riages are very clumsy. The camel is likewise com-
mon here, and may be purchased very cheap. The
Chinese inhabitants, of whom many are emigrants
from Shantung, speak a purer dialect than those at
Teen-tsin. They are reserved in their intercourse,
and in the habit of doing menial service; while the
Fuhkeen men carry on the trade, and man the na-
tive fishing craft. After having supplied the mani-
fold wants of my patients in this place, I distributed
to them the word of life, and gained their esteem
and affection.
The 9th of November was a very pleasant day;
but during the night, the wind changed, and a strong
northerly breeze began to blow. In a few hours,
the rivers and creeks were frozen up. The cold was
so piercing, that I was obliged to take the most ac-
tive exercise, in order to keep myself warm; while
the Chinese around me, covered with rags and furs,
laid down and kept themselves quiet. The wind,
at length, blew a gale, and we were in imminent
danger of being wrecked; but the almighty hand of
God preserved us, whilst a large junk, better man-
ned than ours, was dashed in pieces, near to us.
Business was for some days, quite at a stand, and I
had reason to fear the junk would be ice-bound.
The sailors on shore whiled away the time, smoking
opium day and night. Some of them bought quails,
and set them fighting for amusement. Indeed,
there was not the least anxiety manifested in regard
to the vessel; and it was owing to the unremitting
DELAYS OF THE VOYAGE.
121
severity of the cold, that we were, at last, driven
away from Kin-chow. The sailors delayed so long
on shore, that the favorable winds were now passed
away; and, dissatisfied with the dispensations of
Divine Providence, they murmured, and gave them-
selves up again to gambling and opium smoking.
On the 17th of November we finally got under
way, passed along the rugged coast of Leaoutung,
and, on the next day, reached the province of Shan-
tung. Unluckily for us, snow now began to fall,
and our sailors thought it expedient to come to an-
chor, though we had a fair breeze, which would
have enabled us to make the Shantung promontory.
My strongest arguments and representations were all
to no purpose :— "Down with the anchor, enter the
cabins, smoke opium, and take rest," was the gene-
ral cry among the men. The next day, they show-
ed
no disposition to proceed, and went on shore to
buy fuel. When we were again under way, and
the wind was forcing us round the promontory, the
sailors thought it best to come to anchor, at Toa-sik-
tow (or Ta-shih-taou,) near the promontory, where
there is a large harbor. This place is too rocky to
yield any provisions; but some of the adjacent coun-
try is well cultivated, and furnishes good supplies.
The inhabitants carry on some trade in drugs, but
are generally very poor. The sailors crammed our
junk, already well filled, till every corner was over-
flowing with cabbages and other vegetables. Even
the narrow place where we dined was stuffed full ;
11
122
CHINA.
66
we must trade," was their answer, when I object-
ed to these proceedings.
A favorable breeze now began to blow, and I tried
to persuade the men to quit the shore, and get the
junk under way. They, however, told the pilot
plainly, that they did not wish to sail; but after
many intreaties, he finally prevailed on them to
weigh anchor.
A fair wind had almost borne us
out of sight of the promontory, when the breeze
veered round to west, and the sailors immediately
resolved to return and anchor; all sails, therefore,
were hoisted in order to hasten the return; but the
wind changing back again to a fair point, they were.
unable to effect their purpose, and so cast anchor.
They continued in this situation, exposed to a heavy
sea, till the wind abated; then they entered the har-
bor, and went on shore, the same as previously,----
wholly regardless of the wind, which had now again
become fair. I strongly expostulated with them,
and urged them to go out to sea, but "It is not a
lucky day," was their reply. Nor was it till after a
wearisome delay, and when other junks, leaving the
harbor, had set them an example, that they were, at
length, prevailed on to get under way. We had not
proceeded more than fifty leagues, when the fellows
resolved once more to return, but were prevented by
strong northerly gales, which now drove us, nolens
volens, down the coast.
Though the sea was amazingly high, when we
came to the channel of Formosa, we saw many
fishing boats, in all directions. I have never met
RETURN TO MACAO.
123
with more daring seamen than those from Fuhkeen.
With the most perfect carelessness, they go, four in
number, in a small boat, over the foaming billows;
while their larger vessels are driven about, and in
danger of being swallowed up by the sea. Former-
ly, these same men, who gain a livelihood by fishing,
were desperate pirates, and attacked every vessel
they could find. The vigilance of the government
has produced this change; and, at present, piratical
depredations are very unfrequent in the channel of
Formosa.
On the 10th of December, after having suffered
severely from various hardships, and having had our
sails torn in pieces, by the violent gales, we, at
length, saw a promontory in the province of Can-
ton,--much to the joy of us all. At Soah-boe, (or
Shan-wei,) a place three days sail from Canton, our
captain went on shore, in order to obtain a permit
to enter.
We proceeded slowly in the mean time, and I en-
gaged one of my friends to go with me to Macao,
where, I was told, many barbarians lived. All the
sailors, my companions in many dangers, took an
affectionate leave of me; and in a few hours after, I
arrived at Macao, on the evening of the 13th De-
cember, and was kindly received by Dr. and Mrs.
Morrison.
The reader of these details should remember, that
what has been done is only a feeble beginning of
what must ensue. We will hope and pray, that
God in his mercy may, very soon, open a wider door
124
CHINA.
:
of access; and we will work so long as the Lord
grants health, strength, and opportunity. I sincere-
ly wish that something more efficient might be done
for opening a free intercourse with China, and
would feel myself highly favored, if I could be sub-
servient, in a small degree, in hastening forward
such an event. In the merciful providence of our
God and Saviour, it may be confidently hoped, that
the doors to China will be thrown open. By whom
this will be done, or in what way, is of very little
importance; every well-wisher and co-operator will
anxiously desire, that all glory may be rendered to
God, the giver of every good gift.
The kindness wherewith I was received by the
foreign residents at Macao and Canton, formed quite
a contrast with the account the Chinese had given
me of "barbarian character," and demands my live-
liest gratitude. Praise to God, the Most High, for
his gracious protection and help, for his mercy, and
his grace!
JOURNAL
OF A
SECOND VOYAGE ALONG THE COAST OF CHINA,
ETC., ETC.
CHAPTER I.
THE expedition of which I am to give an outline
originated in the desire of the factory of the Hon.
East India Company in China, to facilitate mercan-
tile enterprise, and to acquire information respecting
those ports where commerce might be established.
We were instructed to use no force, except for self-
defence; but by every means so to conciliate the na-
tives, as to establish trade on a basis which would
be permanent. We were to visit the coasts of China,
Corea, Japan, and the Loo-Choo islands. Mr. Lind-
say, our chief and supercargo, a man of the most
humane disposition, refined manners, and enthu-
siastic in such an enterprise, was conversant with the
Chinese language. Capt. Rees, the commander, an
able seaman and surveyor, was anxious to make ac-
curate charts of the different harbors.
. We had also a draughtsman among the officers.
There was also a learned Chinese on board. I was
11*
126
CHINA,
charged with the office of interpreter and surgeon.
Our ship, "The Lord Amherst," was in very good
condition, and commanded by able officers.
On the 25th of February, 1832, we went on board
our ship, lying in Macao roads, but from adverse
winds and fogs were unable to sail till the 27th.
Next day we passed the Lae-moon passage, where
was good anchorage, but where, from our eagerness.
to proceed, we did not anchor. That night we were
exposed to a heavy gale, during which my cabin was
filled with water. Before we reached the open sea,
some servants of the Budha temple in the Lae-moon
passage accosted us, and begged for rice. To grant
such a request seemed very harmless; but with the
interpretation they are known to give to such an act,
a Christian can scarcely feel satisfied to do it. For
it is customary with the Chinese, previous to every
voyage, to implore the protection of Ma-tsoo-po, god-
dess of the sea, and queen of heaven. They be-
stow their gifts upon the priests, who, after present-
ing them before the idol, convert them to their own
While offering them to the idol, a priest also
recites prayers, and burns incense before her, to con-
ciliate her favors. Our gift, therefore, was considered
an offering to an idol, and was highly unworthy of
professed Christians.
use.
The wind blowing strong from the northeast, our
progress against it was very slow. March 5th, we came
to anchor at Ma-kung, in the district of Hae-fung.
Here we were hailed by the natives, who seemed
unused to see foreigners, and exceedingly delighted
體
​יי
MA-KUNG.
127
at our arrival. They ushered us into their houses,
and gave us sweetmeats and tea.
This village or
town seemed very extensive and populous. Their
houses were spacious, but very dirty; and most of
the inhabitants go out to fish.
It was soon known that we had medicines to give
them, when repeated applications were made by
those afflicted with the various diseases, and they
showed themselves grateful. Here we began to dis-
tribute Christian books. They had never been seen
before, and their contents excited wonder. To see
this poor friendly people, anxious for the word of
eternal life, but unable to obtain it, is truly distressing.
The next day many people came on board; they
were very inoffensive, and behaved with great pro-
priety. The appearance, however, of a military
officer of the lowest rank, gave them much alarm.
This man was extremely proud and ignorant, and
took no notice whatever of any objects in the ship.
One of his servants was very boisterous in asking a
present for his master, for his condescension in
coming on board. As we did not gratify his wish,
he stole a pipe, and marched off with the stateliness
of a bigoted "Celestial." I had here the pleasure of
hearing the inquiries of the people about the word of
eternal life. One of them was very desirous to know
whether the books which were distributed were good
books, and when convinced of this, his expressions
of delight were extreme.
Towards evening, having left the ship, we as-
cended a mountain in the neighborhood. At the
128
CHINA.
foot of this were a few hovels of fishermen, as
wretched as human dwellings can be; yet there was
a small temple, with an image in it, and a few in-
cense sticks. Even the smallest villages have these
buildings, reminding the Christian to strive to be-
come individually the temple of the living God.
The small patches of land which were cultivated
with great care by the natives, presented a pleasing
sight among the barren rocks. We had a long con-
versation with the poor people, who, though clad in
rags, and scarcely provided with the necessaries of
life, were yet cheerful and communicative. They
were natives of the Kea district, whose inhabitants
speak a dialect more resembling the mandarin than
the natives of any other part of Canton province.
They are industrious cultivators of the ground, bar-
bers, smiths, and carpenters. As their population is
too dense, they leave their country for foreign lands,
especially for the Indian Archipelago. At Banca and
Borneo they are the principal miners, and at Singa-
pore and Batavia, the artisans. They occupy much
of the interior of Formosa, and are spread through-
out the Canton province as barbers and servants.
When we had descended the hill, the scene pre-
sented to our view was sublime-a boundless pros-
pect of the tranquil ocean, and the adjacent country
lying beneath it. The whole ridge of the mountain
was planted with fir-trees. This economy is neces-
sary, as the wood of natural growth is very scarce;
and from the supplies required by the immense po-
pulation, fuel is rapidly decreasing.
BAY OF KEA-TSZE.
129
The dense fogs which we had experienced at Ma-
cao still continuing frequently to envelope us. We
arrived, March 9, in the bay of Kea-tsze. The inha-
bitants soon hailed us with joy; amongst them was
a very intelligent youth who shortly became so fa-
miliar with us, that he offered his services as a sailor.
We were thwarted in our desire to ascend the little
stream where their town was built, by the stern
commands of the officers of two war junks anchored
in a small bay. Our young friend was with us in
the boat, and would have suffered severe punishment
from these tyrants, for being in the contaminating
atmosphere of barbarians, had we not rowed away
and put him into a native boat. The commanders
of these junks were Fuh-keen men; they would
scarcely admit more than two of us on board, and
when in their presence, insisted that we should stand,
which, however, we refused to do. In the course of
the conversation, they upbraided us for our wanton
attempt to ascend the river, which would expose them
to very severe punishment. They and many of
their sailors were devoted opium-smokers, and of the
most depraved character.
In the afternoon we visited some villages at the
entrance of the bay. Viewed from a distance, their
appearance is most romantic; the houses built of
brick, rise up among the high trees, of which there
are a multitude overshadowing them. But on a
nearer approach the charm vanishes. Large quan-
tities of manure, near the houses, infect the air; the
houses themselves have scarcely any furniture, and
130
CHINA.
are exceedingly filthy; the lanes are narrow, and
the whole built without plan or convenience. Great
crowds of people followed us in every direction. Of
the young, also, whom we every where observed to
be numerous, the boys (for the girls were confined
in the houses with their feet bound up) in multitudes
accompanied us, with shouts and gambols, to show
their delight. I distributed several books to the peo-
ple, which excited much interest, as well as wonder,
that we should possess books in their language, and
should distribute them "without money and without
price." The shore here consisting of numerous pro-
jecting rocks, presents an imposing aspect; along
this we walked till we arrived at an old fort. The
wall of this, in part, was massive rock, and able to
resist a heavy bombardment. A ravine in the neigh-
borhood contains a mineral acid.
The next day, which was very fair, we made an
excursion to the right of Kea-tsze. Here are exten-
sive saline works, consisting of an elevated bed of
mud, where the sea water is partially evaporated.
After this it is boiled till the pure salt appears. The
monopoly of salt is one of the most important reve-
nues of the Celestial Empire. The merchants who
deal in it are generally the richest individuals in the
country. Yet the monopoly, though under the con-
duct of certain officers, is generally so conducted as
to become very oppressive to the poor, and a heavy
national burden.
On the dry ground the natives cultivated the su-
gar cane, and prepared it for use. The soil is here
INDUSTRY-IDOLATRY.
131
very sandy, and productive only of a few vegetables.
Yet such is Chinese industry, that they sow here and
reap on the most barren soil; and though they can-
not boast of abundance, they receive a sufficiency.
After proceeding in various directions, we finally came
to a bridge, the first we had hitherto seen. There
was no railing for the sides. At the end was a tem-
ple, where some elderly men waited for us, and very
gravely questioned us about our country. The filth
and stench were here intolerable. Though the
crowd of people around us was very numerous, we
had no reason to complain of their rudeness or want
of respect. It gave me great pleasure to leave with
them the words of eternal life. Eternity will show
how many a soul may be benefited by the perusal of
one little tract.
Notwithstanding the severe prohibitions of the
mandarins, we went up the river. In the midst of it
stands a rock, and upon it a huge image of the god-
dess of the sea. Every where the monuments of
superstition, and of the most lamentable degradation,
meet our eyes. We were pursued by several man-
darin boats, which, however, could not overtake us.
The people on shore pressingly invited us to visit
Kea-tsze. We judged it best not to go on shore, to
avoid implicating the people in guilt and danger from
our intercourse. It is distressing to see that men are
forbidden free intercourse with men, all to please the
whim of a few tyrants.
March 17th, we were again obliged to come to an
chor at Shin-tseuen. The adjacent country is fer-
132
CHINA.
answer.
tile, and sown with wheat. The inhabitants were
very poor, and were consumed with cutaneous dis-
eases. We proceeded up an inlet, on the left bank
of which stands Shin-tseuen. One branch of the
inlet turns westward, and a short distance up is a
village named Shih-Chow. The old mandarin sta-
tioned at the fort at the entrance was very anxious
that we should return. Several of inferior rank
showed us the greatest kindness. I asked them why
we were not allowed to walk upon our common
earth. "The laws of the empire forbid it," was the
"You boast of equity and reason in your
government where is the equity or reason of laws
against the common laws of nature?" "There is
none," they replied. "Why, then, are you so very
anxious to shut us out from intercourse with a peo-
ple who would gladly receive us?" To this they
gave no reply, but inquired our names, and the name
of our ship. We always made it our great endea-
vor to conciliate the people. As the Chinese are not
of that misanthropic cast of mind which foreigners.
generally believe, we succeeded in our endeavor so
far, that though our stay was but short, they 'inva-
riably became attached to us.
and found un-
On the 22d, we arrived at
safe anchorage, amidst surrounding rocks. The
shore is here a large sandy plain, destitute of vege-
tation, except the wild pine-apple. In crossing this
plain I was strongly reminded of the Arabian desert.
There is a fort at the hill, where the half-starved
soldiers were much frightened at our appearance and
KANG-LAE.
closed the gates behind them.
133
The walls were very
weak and crumbled down at the least motion.
The inhabitants living at a distance beyond the
desert, very soon heard the arrival of our ship, and
came off in great numbers to provide us refreshments.
Having received very pressing invitations to visit
them on shore, we crossed over the barren tract, and
came, at last, to Kang-lae. This is a very large
village, situated near an inlet, which reaches far in-
land, and resembles the water of a deep river. No-
thing could exceed the joy of the inhabitants, whom
curiosity and the hope of gain from the sale of a few
articles, had called together. But the stench arising
from the sloughs of manure, was so offensive, that
we were speedily compelled to retreat from this bus-
tling scene. Here were people engaged in the
manufacture of sugar, the staple article of export in
most of the districts already visited by us.
Of this,
the larger part goes to the northern ports. Every
where the population is abundant to overflowing, and
it would be a humane act of the emperor, should
he send the surplus of them to the Indian Archipe-
lago, where large and fertile tracts of land might be
allotted to them for cultivation and subsistence.
Though he connives at the emigration of male sub-
jects from Canton and Fuhkeen province, yet he
never permits females to leave their country. The
consequence is, that Chinese emigrants intermarry
with the natives where they reside and hence, in
the offspring are combined the natural vices of both
parents, while there is little proficiency in the virtues
12
134
CHINA.
of either. The greater part of the emigrants, how-
ever, live in celibacy and wantonness: those who
are fortunate enough to gain a little money, speedily
return to their native land to enjoy it, thus draining
the colonies of wealth and population. Hence, it is
hardly possible that Chinese colonies should extend
and flourish to that degree, which the industry of the
people might lead us to expect. Other nations are
desirous to aid colonization in all ways, but the Chi-
nese government assiduously opposes and obstructs
it. In the public papers, frequent mention is made
of the transforming and salutary influence of the
Celestial Empire upon the conduct of its subjects.
This could actually be exemplified amid the jungles
of Borneo, Lingan, Biletou, &c. were practical virtue,
rather than ostentation, the real object of the Chinese
government.
After many days of dark weather, we finally en-
joyed a fair day, and a favorable breeze for a few
hours carried us to How-ta, where we anchored; a
considerable village in the neighborhood of Nan-aou,
(or Namoh.) We saw the numerous junks lying at
anchor at Ting-hae, (or Ching-hae-heen.) The trade
here has always been brisk and advantageous, for
the government chose to be unusually liberal to the
overflowing population, which here threatened re-
bellion, if not permitted to engage in mercantile spe-
culations, and to embark as colonists for foreign
countries. All the districts belonging to Fuh-chow
Foo, to which Ting-hae likewise appertains, send
forth a great number of colonists, who spare neither
LIBERALITY OF EMIGRANTS.
135
danger or toil to gain a scanty livelihood in their
foreign homes. A part of their hard earnings is an-
nually remitted to their kindred who are left in their
native land; and it is astonishing to see what hard-
ships they will suffer, to procure and send home this
pittance. A man of tried honesty is appointed to
collect the individual subscriptions of the emigrants,
who also engages to go home with them, and there
make an equitable distribution to the donees. The
subscriptions are regularly noted down, and a certain
per centage paid to this commissioner. Before he
goes on board, a banquet is given by the subscribers,
and then he embarks with all the wishes which hu-
man voices can utter, for his prosperous passage. On
arriving at his native shores, he is welcomed by all
those who are anxiously waiting for this supply.
The amount of these remittances is often large, and
there are instances where junks have taken on board
more than sixty thousand dollars for this purpose.
Notwithstanding the great precaution taken to find
a proper man for so important a trust, it often hap-
pens that he runs away with the money entrusted
to him, and the poor families, whose sole dependence
it was, are reduced to starvation. Good faith is sure-
ly not a virtue of which the Chinese can generally
boast, though there are honorable individual excep-
tions; at the same time, it must be admitted, that
their affection towards their kindred is very strong;
neither time nor distance can withdraw their atten-
tion from the beloved objects they left behind in their
native land. If an emigrant can send but a dollar
136
CHINA.
he will send it; he will himself fast in order to save
it; indeed, he will never send home a letter, unless
accompanied with some present; he will rather en-
tirely cease writing than send nothing more substan-
tial than paper. There are also swindlers among
the colonists, who, on their arrival from China, en-
gage in extensive mercantile speculations, and hav-
ing acquired credit, and got much property in their
hands, either run away, or abide the consequences
in a jail.
The condition of the emigrants in general, on
their arrival in a foreign country, is most miserable,
without clothing, or money for one day's subsistence.
Sometimes they have not money enough to pay their
passage from home, (six or twelve dollars,) and they
become bondmen to any body who pays this sum
for them, or fall a prey to extortioners, who claim
their services for more than a year. The junks
which transport them in great numbers, remind one
of an African slaver. The deck is filled with them,
and there the poor wretches are exposed to the incle-
mency of the weather and without any shelter, for
the cargo fills the junk below. Their food consists
of dry rice and an allowance of water; but when
the passages are very long, there is often a want of
both, and many of them actually starve to death.
As soon as they arrive, they fall with a ravenous ap-
petite upon the fruits of India, and many die by dy-
sentery and fever. The climate also has often an
enervating effect upon them, but they very soon re-
cover from it and resume their industrious habits.
NAN-AOU.
137
But disappointed hopes render them languid in their
pursuits; they came to amass dollars, and can scarce-
ly get cents; they expected to live in plenty, but
can earn a bare subsistence. Many therefore be-
come thieves and gamblers to gratify their covetous
desires. This is not strange, for it is generally the
degraded and vicious of the people who leave their
country for foreign parts, and there they rather ad-
vance than recede in vice. The propagation of the
Gospel among such a class of men, is therefore at-
tended with numerous difficulties, from the prevail-
ing corruptions.
March 27th we anchored in sight of the city of
Nan-aou, and the next day resolved to visit the war
junks stationed here. They signified by their hands
and by words, that we must be off immediately,
pointing to the shore where his excellency, the com-
mander-in-chief, resided. We succeeded, however,
in getting on board a very large rice trader, from
Formosa, driven hither by one of the N. E. gales,
which are very common in the channel of Formosa.
The captain of this junk seemed to understand true
politeness well; and when censured by the com-
manders of the war junks, for receiving us, he mild-
ly replied, "How could I transgress so against the
laws of hospitality?" He very soon silenced a bois-
terous mandarin, and Mr. Lindsay's winning man-
ners contributed not a little to remove their objections.
We afterwards approached the city in a boat, but
as his excellency had strictly forbidden all inter-
course with us, we did not wait upon him as we
12*
138
CHINA.
first designed. Conscious of their own weakness,
they are always fearful that the fierce barbarians
will assume too much liberty if permitted to enter
at all.
There are two forts on an island eastward of the
city, and another smaller one nearer to it. The city
itself has a romantic appearance, as viewed from a
distance. It is one of the principal naval stations of
the empire, as the island, Nan-aou, was formerly the
haunt of pirates, who infested all the Chinese seas.
Hence so many forts were erected, but they are at
present almost fallen to ruins, like all the military
defences of the Celestial Empire. In ascending a
hill, Pih-shan-gan, we reached a most romantic spot,
covered with cottages and wheat fields. A streamlet
issuing from the hill falls into the sea near a little
hamlet. The people were rather disposed to shun
us, on account of the neighborhood of the mandarins.
We now left the coast of Canton, and began to
sail along the shores of Fuhkeen. The same bar-
ren rocks, the same sterile soil, present themselves to
the eye of the passenger. The fishermen, whom we
saw in all directions, were not very anxious to ap-
proach us, though we encouraged them by great re-
wards. We anchored westward of four islands,
bearing the names of Tiger, Lion, Dragon, and
Elephant, and east of an offing of perforated rock.
We landed at the village of Gaou-keo, which is built
on a peninsula, and inhabited by fishermen. The
hill we ascended exhibited a great variety of stones
and strata of earth. Though the inhabitants were
PIRATES.
139
very civil, yet they were very cautious in their inter-
course. They asked of what ship and country we
were, and from their conversation we understood that
they were partially acquainted with Europeans before.
The islands here are universally as barren as can
be conceived, yet the larger of them are the abodes
of fishermen. Formerly the pirates had possession
of most of these islands. They were Fuhkeen
men, from the Fung-gan district. The owners of
their ships generally resided at Amoy or Formosa.
Very many of the sailors were men driven to despe-
ration by the mandarins; the rest were worthless
vagabonds. Though the Chinese character is ge-
nerally exempt from cruelty, these men were so de-
generate and hardened that they committed the most
unheard of crimes from mere wantonness. In their
engagements with the imperial fleet they were often
victorious, for many of their sailors were taken from
the flower of the nation; whilst the imperial fleet
has chiefly on board half-starved beings, taken from
the dregs of the people, and regardless of military
honor. A regular system of piratical extortion once
threatened to put a stop to the coasting trade, and to
interrupt the supplies which came to the capital by
way of Teen-tsin. The chiefs of the pirates gave
passports to the trading vessels, and thereby strictly
enforced their claim to the command of the seaports.
Such a ruinous system could not long continue, and
hence the mandarins bribed the chiefs by the offer of
military rank, and service under the imperial banner.
They accepted the offer; and many of them, to this
140
CHINA.
period, are renowned naval commanders, whilst a
few have been executed.
The sea seems here to be receding; for the lands
belonging to this people, ten years ago were sea, and
are yearly increasing in extent. Not far from this
fishing village is Chang-poo-heen. We could
merely discern that it was an extensive place; for it
was already the dusk of the evening, and we could
not reach it. The natives were very inquisitive
respecting our cargo, and complained bitterly of the
system of exclusion enforced by the mandarins.
"How gladly," said they, "would we, if permitted,
cultivate amicable intercourse with you! but we are
always forbidden to obey the impulse of our hearts!"
141
J
CHAPTER II.
AFTER many delays we finally arrived at Amoy.
This place is situated on a very large island, on the
left side of a bay, which deeply indents the country,
and forms numerous islands. The city is very ex-
tensive, and contains at least two hundred thousand
inhabitants. All its streets are narrow, the temples
numerous, and a few large houses owned by wealthy
merchants. Its excellent harbor has made it, from
time immemorial, one of the greatest emporiums of
the empire, and one of the most important markets
of Asia. Vessels can sail up close to the houses,
load and unload with the greatest facility, have shel-
ter from all winds, and in entering or leaving the
port, experience no danger of getting ashore. The
whole adjacent country being sterile, forced the inha-
bitants to seek some means of subsistence. En-
dowed with an enterprising spirit, and unwearied in
the pursuit of gain, they visited all parts of the Chi-
nese empire, gradually became bold sailors, and set-
tled as merchants all along the coast. Thus they
colonized Formosa, which, from that period to this,
has been their granary; visited and settled in the
Indian Archipelago, Cochin-China, and Siam. A
population constantly overflowing demanded con-
stant resources for their subsistence, and this they
142
CHINA.
found in colonization. This they have promoted
all along the coast of China, up to Mantchou Tar-
tary. As soon as the colonists amass sufficient mo-
ney they return home, which they leave again when
all is spent.
This constant emigration of the male part of the
people contributes very much to the destruction of
domestic happiness. It is a general custom among
them to drown a large proportion of the new-born
female children. This unnatural crime is so com-
mon among them, that it is perpetrated without any
feeling, and even in a laughing mood; and to ask
a man of any distinction whether he has daughters,
is a mark of great rudeness. Neither the govern-
ment nor the moral sayings of their sages have put
a stop to this nefarious custom. The father has au-
thority over the lives of his children, and disposes of
them according to his pleasure. The boys enjoy the
greater share of parental affection. Their birth is
considered one of the greatest and most fortunate
events in a family. They are cherished and in-
dulged to a high degree; and if the father dies, the
son assumes a certain authority over his mother.
There is also carried on a regular traffic in females.
These facts are as revolting to humanity as disgusting
to detail. They may serve, however, to stimulate
the zeal of Christian females to promote the welfare
of one of the largest portions of their sex, by giving
them the glorious Gospel of our Saviour-that Gos-
pel, which alone restores females to their proper rank
in society. It is pleasing to observe that there is
AMOY.
143
now a benevolent association in England for the
express purpose of instructing Chinese females at
Malacca. If this institution can ever exert any in-
fluence upon China in this way, for which we sin-
cerely pray, we are persuaded that the degradation
and oppression under which the nation now groans
will be much alleviated.
Amoy was formerly a resort for ships of different
foreign nations. The English were forced to relin-
quish the trade by the severe extortions to which they
were subject. The Dutch continued it for a longer
time, but neglected it when their influence at For-
mosa ceased. The Spanish have nominal permis-
sion to trade there to this day, but they have pre-
ferred to send their ships to Macao. They retaliated
upon the Chinese junks which annually arrive at
Manilla from Amoy and Shang-hae, by imposing
upon them higher duties than they themselves paid
at Amoy. This has embittered the Chinese against
them, given rise to smuggling, and greatly impeded
the trade.
We arrived at Amoy harbor about three o'clock.
Scarcely had we come to anchor when a mandarin
boat approached, and one of the boatmen joyfully
exclaimed, "O! she is a trader !" A young man
now came forward, and delivered us a paper, sent by
a principal mandarin, desiring us to report "whence
we came, and for what purpose we had entered the
harbor." At the same time he invited us to an en-
tertainment the next day at his master's house, where
we should see the Te-tuh, or admiral. Two man-
$
144
CHINA.
darins, with gold buttons,* came very shortly after,
and also desired our report. They were followed by
two others, one with a blue, and the other with a
white button, who were exceedingly reserved. An
elderly man, belonging to the custom house office,
was of quite a different character. He told us very
candidly that this was the best place to which we
could come, because the wealthiest merchants resided
here, who would gladly engage with us in mercan-
tile business.
Scarcely had we dined when the two mandarins
first mentioned brought us notice, "that the admiral
desired us to leave the harbor as speedily as possible,
and they would supply us with water." We thanked
them for this show of hospitality, and merely replied,
that we could by no means be guilty of so great a
breach of politeness as to neglect paying our respects
to his excellency before our departure; that as the
wind was against us, we had time enough to spare.
We begged them to treat us as we treated their coun-
trymen when they arrived at our colonies. This
tended to soften their harsh language, and confound
their reasoning about the inviolable laws of the Ce-
lestial Empire. But nothing inspired them with so
much respect as our well-mounted long guns, which
silently spoke more in our behalf than the best ha-
rangue of Demosthenes could have done. Several
respectable merchants were anxious to come on
* Civil and military officers in China are divided into nine ranks,
which are distinguished by the stone or metal of which the button,
or knob, worn by the Chinese at the top of their caps, is made.-Pub.
OPPOSITION OF THE MANDARINS.
145
board; but as no permission had been given, while
they deeply regretted it, they did not venture to come
on deck.
April 3. Several boats anchored around us, to
keep off the natives; some watermen, by feeing the
mandarin on duty, got permission to come on board.
When several mandarins, our friends of yesterday,
came on board, we were again importuned to leave
the harbor immediately. They pretended to be very
hospitable towards us, and professed themselves our
sincere friends,-hence they had stationed boats
around us that we might not suffer from the trea-
cherous people. We simply replied, that "according to
our foreign customs, friends are not watched like
thieves, and guests are not driven away like scoun-
drels." This answer seemed so conclusive that they
began now to talk about the probability of an au-
dience with his excellency, the admiral. He had
pledged himself to provide us provisions. But as the
trade with foreigners was restricted to Canton, he
could give us no permission to trade.
In going up to the city we passed a large rock
with an inscription on it, the purport of which we
were too distant to ascertain. Before landing, a
mandarin with a white button, who had been aboard
the ship, and had shown us every attention, came up
to us in a boat. He apologized for his sudden ap-
pearance, and offered himself as our guide through
this unknown place. He had evidently been de-
spatched by his superiors, to prevent our landing, but
feeling the uselessness of the order, he did not once
1
13
146
CHINA.
mention it. In our walk around, we saw inany
shops well furnished with the necessaries and the
luxuries of life, such as could scarcely be supposed in
a district almost destitute of any natural productions.
The insufferable stench, and the great crowd of peo-
ple, prevented our penetrating far. We visited se-
veral respectable merchants who treated us with eve-
ry mark of civility, and would have entered into
commercial speculations with us, had not the pre-
sence of the mandarins overawed them. Many large
houses which we passed, bespoke the wealth of the
inmates. A military escort attended us, which ren-
dered our visit very awkward, though the command-
er repeatedly assured us, that it was merely for our
protection. When we objected to this, that the peo-
ple were friendly to strangers, and gave every sign
of being delighted with our visit, the mandarin re-
plied, "these are the orders from our superiors; I
cannot justify them myself; but come to-morrow
again, and you will enjoy greater liberty."
We sailed afterwards up the inlet.
At the en-
trance we found from six to ten fathoms of water, so
that the largest ships could anchor opposite the city.
There were, in all, about one hundred and fifty junks
in the harbor, many of them undergoing repairs in
the docks, which are very cominodious. Daily arri
vals from Formosa, with cargoes of rice, increased
the number. Notwithstanding the abundant supply,
rice was very dear, and soon after our departure, rose
to an enormous price. Farther up the inlet are
shoals and numerous rocks above water.
On our
ORDER TO LEAVE THE PORT.
147
return to the ship we found that our learned China-
man had fallen overboard, but was providentially
rescued by our second mate, Mr. Jemison, a gentle-
man of great intrepidity.
April 4. I was roused by the arrival of all the
mandarins who had formerly been aboard. They
told us that we had nothing to expect, but must im-
mediately leave the port. At the same time we re-
ceived a document from the Te-tuh, containing an
imperial edict, issued the twenty-first year of Kea
King, (1817, a year after the British embassy,) to
the officers in the Fuhkeen and Che-keang pro-
vinces. They were not to permit a barbarian ship to
come near the coast of those two provinces, not to
allow her to anchor for a moment, but to drive her
instantly away, and not to connive at the people's
going on board.
The last clause, how-
his severity, in cruelly
All these orders had been neglected by the admi-
ral, in our case, yet did he plead this document as
the sole rule of his conduct.
ever, he had overstepped by
beating the people who came "along side" of us,
merely to look at our ships; with the design not on-
ly to intimidate them, but also to disgrace us in the
eyes of the natives as unworthy of notice. In this
design he failed, for though the people seemed asto-
nished at his harsh treatment to us, they could not
forbear to be kind to strangers whom they consider-
ed, as their friends.
We often conversed with them upon the things
which concerned their eternal happiness; we gave
148
CHINA.
them books, exhorted them to read them with dili
gence, and we left this kind-hearted people, with a
deep impression of their unhappiness in being form-
ed for improvement from foreign intercourse, yet al-
ways debarred from it. How deplorable it is to be-
hold such numbers of rational beings in a state of
deep ignorance! Whatever other attainments they
may have made, their idolatry is degrading to hu-
manity; their superstitions, a stain upon the human
understanding. How do they stand when viewed
in their relations to the Creator and Protector? How
can we regard them in reference to their God and
Saviour? Though they are ignorant of these rela-
tions, they have immortal souls capable of being en-
lightened, and responsible for the neglect of their
highest duties. A government discountenancing
any mental advancement, cannot deserve applause,
whatever the temporal advantages may be from
laws in favor of stupidity. Every candid reader will
agree with me, that no government has a right to
seclude its subjects from all foreign intercourse.
There are innate rights which no human prohibi-
tion can destroy, and the right of reciprocal inter-
course between the nations of the world, is one of
these.
What authority on earth, even of the Chinese em-
peror, as "vicegerent of heaven over all the globe,"
can enact laws forbidding to acknowledge the Cre-
ator of the universe, and the Saviour of the world?
This in effect has been done in China. Though we
cannot alter their laws to exclude foreigners and the
:
PUNISHMENTS.
149
true religion, yet we do not consider them so binding
upon us, as inhabitants of the same planet and Chris-
tians in faith and practice, that we may not enter
the empire. We have strenuously debated these two
points with them: and the mandarins have conceded
that this system of exclusion is unreasonable, but
throw the whole work of reform upon the emperor.
This convenient way of ridding themselves of con-
scientious scruples, may be styled political popery ;
nothing is more common throughout the empire.
Whilst we were in a temple near a fort at the en-
trance of the inlet, whither we had been invited to
come to an audience at noon, those poor people who
happened to come into the neighborhood of the ship,
were treated most barbarously. After being severe-
ly beaten on board the war junks, so that we might
hear the lamentations of the sufferers, they were
then exposed in the pillory with a canque* about the
neck, and a label inscribed with their crime; not of
leaguing with barbarians, or going aboard, but of
looking at the barbarian ship. Thus, the mere sight
of us was contaminating! We could not have
been worse treated, even if we had had the plague
aboard. Only a few people before this had come on
na.
* This is an instrument of corporeal punishment often used in Chi-
It is made of two oblong pieces of wood, which, when joined,
form a square. Each of the pieces is hollowed out a little at the
place where they are to join; and this hollow encircles the neck of
the criminal, round which the "canque" is placed. It is sometimes
very heavy, and the criminal, while wearing it, can neither raise his
hand to his mouth, nor see where to set his feet. He is sometimes
obliged to carry it for weeks, or even months.
13*
150
CHINA.
board, and they were immediately driven away.
The clerk, who had previously invited us to his mas-
ter's house, came in a great hurry, earnestly beseech-
ing us not to mention this invitation, for, if known,
it would cost him his life.
Towards noon we put off in a boat, to present our
petition to the Te-tuh. In our way up to the tem-
ple we passed ranks of soldiers, dressed in tiger uni-
form; some without a nose, others with one eye,
and the greater number old and emaciated beings.
Their officers, who were in full uniform, armed with
bows, and very elegantly dressed, presented a stri-
king contrast to the soldiers. In a hall adjoining
the temple, we found the admiral and the Tsung-
ping-kwan of Kin-mun, a military station in the
neighborhood, besides several others. We yielded
the point of standing in their presence. This cir-
cumstance, trivial in itself, encouraged the manda-
rins`to treat us insolently. After having hauded the
petition, we were requested to retire to the temple,
till we should receive an answer. Wang, the clerk,
became the bearer of our messages.
Our request to
buy provisions from the merchants, was refused.
The admiral, who was no personal enemy, but ra-
ther our friend, agreed to depute a person to act as
comprador. In the course of our conversation, we
stated our friendly intention in coming to this port.
Mr. Lindsay expostulated with all the firmness and
politeness of an Englishman. The unalterable
laws of the Celestial Empire, were held forth to jus-
tify the treatment we had experienced. If the laws
4.
CONFERENCE WITH THE TE-TUH.
151
are indeed unalterable, we replied, then we ought to
come hither freely, for the ancient edict issued under
Kang-he, permitted foreigners to enter all Chinese
ports. The unchangeable laws, which, as you as-
sert, allow not the least deviation from ancient cus-
tom, are in our favor, and we plead them in our be-
half. We allow your junks to enter all our Indian
ports; they come and trade freely, without being
surrounded by our men of war, or inspected in their
intercourse with our fellow subjects. Moreover, we
allow your nation, and especially the natives of this
province, to settle in our colonies and to enjoy the
same liberties as our own people, without being op-
pressed by any authorities. If we therefore asked,
in return, not all of the same privileges, but only the
permission to trade to every port, our demand is just
by the common law of nations. Besides, we have
been repeatedly told, that the emperor compassionates
foreigners; this compassion has never reached us
yet, and we humbly hope that we may participate in
it, by being permitted to trade to these ports accord-
ing to ancient custom.
This whole conversation was not very palatable
to the mandarins. We were frequently interrupted,
and I myself was charged with impoliteness in addu-
cing the honesty we had exhibited, as a pledge that
we would leave the port after obtaining provisions.
Dont fear, continued I, that we shall not perform
what we promised. "Fear you!" the Tsung-ping-
kwan replied, "fear you!" exclaimed he, with a con-
temptuous sneer. After inviting them to come
152
CHINA.
aboard the ship, and receiving a scornful refusal, we
returned.
We had now tried what could be effected by peti-
tion, and by unresisting submission, and were forced
to give ourselves up to the mercy of these Celestials.
After dinner we took an excursion round an island
opposite to Amoy. All the surrounding country
is barren rock, except some valleys capable of cultiva-
tion, where a few potatoes grow. These vales are
tilled with the greatest care, and richly repay the
labors of the peasant. The country has a romantic
appearance. There is something grand in the sight
of those undulating, barren ridges of hills along the
Chinese coast. We have frequently gazed from the
top of those hills upon the tracts of land spread be-
neath us, and oft did I sing,
"O'er the gloomy hills of darkness
Look, my soul, be still and gaze.
All the promises do travail
With a glorious day of grace:
Blest jubilee!
Let the glorious morning dawn.”
While musing thus, I turned and saw a poor man
carrying a burden, but willing to converse upon the
things of eternal life. I felt consoled by this, and
rejoiced that I was permitted to tread upon these bar-
ren hills. To-day we entered a village at the foot
of a very high hill, and were gladly received by the
inhabitants. They did not hesitate to converse freely
upon any topic which we introduced. I had the
pleasure to add a few books to the well-worn library
INFANTICIDE.
153
of an old man, which he carefully examined. The
houses were built very substantially, and kept tole-
rably clean; but the occupants were very poor peo-
ple, of whom the male part were either at work at
Amoy, or were gone to foreign parts. At the beach
we were shocked at the spectacle of a pretty new-
born babe, which shortly before had been killed. We
asked some of the bystanders what this meant.
They answered with indifference, "it is only a girl."
It is a general custom in this district to drown female
infants immediately after their birth. Respectable
families seldom take the trouble, as they express
themselves, to rear these useless girls. They consi-
der themselves the arbiters of their children's lives,
and entitled to take them away when they can fore-
see that their prolongation would only entail misery.
As the numerous emigration of the male population
renders it probable that their daughters, if permitted
to live, would not be married, they choose this shorter
way to rid themselves of the encumbrance of sup-
porting them.
Thus are the pledges of conjugal love, the most.
precious gift of the Most High, the most important
trust confided to men by the Supreme Being, delibe-
rately murdered. Brutes love their young, and che-
rish and defend them; but man can divest himself
of natural affection, and degrade himself far below
the brute creation.
I had sent my servant, Eu, on shore during the
night, to visit his family, which resides here. He
came off during the night with provisions. The
154
CHINA.
people who came with him were astonished at the
barbarous treatment which we had hitherto expe-
rienced. They blamed us for having yielded too
much to the mandarins. Since matters had come to
this state, however, they saw no possibility of open-
ing a private intercourse with the natives. They
deeply regretted this result. When they saw our
ship enter their port, they had flattered themselves
with the hope of renewing the foreign trade which
was formerly carried on here.
April 5. We waited till this time to receive a
comprador from the admiral; but instead of this we
perceived that our "friends" were making warlike
preparations. They went so far as to point the guns
of the war junks at us. Though this could but
cause us to smile-for the most martial preparations
in China, directed by those possessing neither skill
nor courage, can never intimidate any European
sloop of war-yet we could hence perceive their ill
will emboldened by our tacit submission.
In the afternoon we enjoyed a magnificent view
from one of the highest peaks in the environs of
Amoy. The islands at the mouth of the harbor,
Hin-mun in the back ground, and all the many
hills, valleys, with the villages interposed, and the
city, all before us, afforded us one of the highest en-
joyments we had had. Oh! when will this popu-
lous district become the Lord's?
The Amoy people, though otherwise very reasona-
ble men, have always shown themselves bigoted
heathen. Whether at home or abroad, they have
PEOPLE OF AMOY.
155
everywhere built splendid temples, chiefly in honor
of Ma-tsoo-po, "the queen of heaven," to whose in-
tercession they attribute the increase of their wealth.
They rival Rome in the adoration of images, and
are most devout after a profitable voyage, or an escape
from storm. From their intercourse with foreign
ports they have often enjoyed the high privilege
of becoming acquainted with the Gospel, and they
have often rejected the great salvation. Proud, sel-
fish, and stubborn, they find it entirely agreeable to
reject a religion, at the portal of which is inscribed
humility. But we look for better times.
The mandarin boats, which followed us wherever
we went, kept at a respectful distance, and scarcely
attempted landing where we did; so that we enjoyed
the undisturbed privilege of conversing with the na-
tives. To-day we distributed more books than
usual. They were at first cautious in taking them;
but seeing that we asked nothing in return, they
made no scruple to accept them, and with gratitude.
We were to-day unexpectedly visited by a sailor,
who "claimed friendship" with me. He had form-
erly seen me in Mantchou Tartary, and received
some medicines for his brother, which had restored
him to health. Anxious to show his gratitude, he
had asked permission to come aboard. The manda-
rins had granted it under condition that he became
our comprador. He described, in the most lively
colors, the alarm which our unexpected appearance
had excited in the breasts of the mandarins. We
sent him with a list of the articles needed, and he
156
CHINA.
was very prompt in procuring them. We cannot
account for the fact that the inferior mandarins have
not been permitted to hold any farther intercourse
with us, unless their superiors feared that they would
be seduced by our arguments to favor us.
April 6. To-day I received applications for me-
dicines from mandarins of the highest rank, who
were afflicted with the "itch." In our excursion of
to-day we received, on our return, a military escort.
These soldiers were much astonished at the singular
structure of our muskets. When we asked them
the reason of this escort, we were told again that it
was merely for our protection against the people;
though they have always shown themselves our
warmest friends, and sympathized with us whenever
we were treated insolently.
Our poor sailor came on board this evening very
much agitated. He had been made responsible for
our leaving the port. The junk to which he be-
longed was now ready to sail for Formosa, but could
not proceed till we had left the port. He was also
threatened with corporeal punishment if he failed to
persuade us to depart. He besought us, therefore,
with tears, to leave the harbor early the next day;
or if we could not do this, to move farther out. We
could not doubt the sincerity of this man, but re-
gretted that the mandarins must have recourse to
such expedients, to make up the want of personal
bravery, and to enable them to report to the empe-
ror that they had driven away the barbarians.
April 7. To-day we got under way. I cannot
ENTERPRISE OF THE PEOPLE.
157
ómit to notice a few more particulars respecting this
most celebrated emporium of Fuhkeen, and one of the
greatest in Asia. Its harbor is excellent, and accessi-
ble to the largest men of war. The natives of this dis-
trict seem to be born traders and sailors. Their bar-
ren country, which furnishes employment for only a
few hands, but far more their inclination, prompts
them to leave their home, either for Formosa, or the
principal emporium of the Chinese empire, or the
Indian Archipelago, or for the fisheries along their
native shores. Wherever they go, they are rarely
found in a state of abject poverty; on the contrary,
they are often wealthy, and command the trade of
whole islands and provinces, as well by their capital
as by their superior enterprise and industry. Strongly
attached to their early home, they either return as
soon as they have acquired a small property, or they
make large remittances. Many of the merchants,
settled in the north part of China, return annually
with their profits. It is not surprising, therefore,
that a large amount of Chinese shipping belongs to
Amoy merchants, and that the greater part of capi-
tal employed in the coasting trade is their property.
Hence this barren tract is one of the richest in Chi-
na, from the enterprise of the inhabitants. Here is
doubtless one of the best harbors for European mer-
cantile enterprise, both for its situation, its wealth,
and the stores of all Chinese exports. At an early
period the Portuguese traded here; the Dutch fol-
lowed them; the English, for a long time, had a
factory here; and the Spanish have to this day a
14
158
CHINA.
nominal right to come hither. The cause of the
cessation of trade has not been so much the prohibi-
tion of the emperor, as the great extortion to which
it was subject. The renewal of commerce will have
the most beneficial influence both upon the nation
engaging in it, and upon the Chinese.
It is highly desirable that a Christian mission
should be established here. The facilities for disse-
minating the divine word are greater in this place
than in any other part of China. The Spanish
have a mission in the environs; but it seems to be
almost unknown. Though I have had intercourse
with thousands of Amoy men, I have never met
with one Christian among them.
Boldness, pride, and generosity, are characteristics
of the natives. They have always been obstinate
against governmental encroachments. They were
the last who kept up resistance to the Tartar usur-
pation; and many of them preferred a voluntary
exile in Formosa, or India, to compliance with the
customs of their conquerors, and submission to bar-
barians. They defended themselves bravely at
Formosa, and became notorious for piracy. Suc-
cessful in resisting the attacks of the imperial fleet,
they established a maritime government; and were
never entirely subdued by force, but finally yielded
to persuasion and bribery.
Literary fame is no object of their ambition; but
they generally learn to count and to make up bills.
Their language differs widely from the mandarin
dialect, and they are obliged to learn this with the
DEPARTURE FROM AMOY.
159
same labor as we acquire Latin. In their dealings,
they have a name for honesty above all other Chi-
nese. Though incessantly hunting for gain, they
are not mean, and they are anxious to establish a
fair character. Solicitous to cultivate friendship with
strangers, they have always associated with them
freely, whenever beyond the reach of government.
They have been frequently entrusted with high
offices, by those foreign states where they have
resided as colonists. One of their descendants, as
late as the middle of the last century, ascended the
throne of Siam. I am acquainted with his son,
who became a physician instead of a king, but who,
notwithstanding this degradation, possesses royal
virtues, and too much sagacity, to be a usurper.
He is wise enough to prefer a quiet, humble life, to
the pageantry of royalty, with the disaffection of a
nation, indignant at seeing a foreigner on the throne.
When we had left our anchorage, and got beyond
the reach of the fort, their large guns were fired, and
most of the men of war joined them in this act of
heroism. Several of them escorted us out, to protect
us, no doubt, from the treacherous natives. How-
ever, we had no reason to complain, for we had
received all the necessaries we had requested, though
in a very awkward manner. His excellency even
sent us several boat-loads of stores, as a present, for
which, however, we paid the people who were com-
pelled to furnish them.
On the whole we may say, the Amoy mandarins
heaped all possible insult upon us, to render us des-
160
CHINA.
picable in the view of the people, and to maintain the
dignity of the Celestial Empire. Other ships which
may come hereafter, will avoid all this, by entering
the harbor without delay, and anchoring among the
junks. They ought not to move before their rea-
sonable demands are complied with: as they will
thereby gain their end, expedite the business, and
less trouble both mandarins and people. The na-
tives suggested this course to us, of which we made
experiment in other ports, and to our great advantage.
The most trivial things, if not firmly demanded,
will meet a refusal from the Chinese. Justice and
forbearance should be on our side: we should do
our utmost to conciliate, by unequivocal acts of
kindness: we should prove ourselves Christians, by
honest dealings, and philanthropists, by our religion :
yet we should never allow any native to be unjustly
punished on our account. They regard us as their
friends, and we claim friendship with them. We have,
surely, no right to interfere with the internal laws
of a country, where we are merely tolerated as mer-
chants; but we may restrain the unlawful acts
committed on our account, by the guardians of the
laws.
April 9. After an unsuccessful attempt to proceed,
we got under way, and reached the Pang-hoo, or
Piscadores, anchoring at Se-seu, a very barren island.
These numerous islands, various in extent, are all
extremely sterile; but having good harbors, they
serve as a refuge for the junks, which continually
pass between Formosa and China. As the north-
PISCADORES ISLANDS.
161
east wind generally blows strong a greater part of
the year, in the Formosa channel, many junks must
be lost, if they could not find shelter among them.
On the largest of the islands, there are the ruins of
a fort, built by the Dutch, called Hung-maon-ching
-"red-bristle fort." The Chinese garrison is very
numerous here, because the security of Formosa
depends upon the possession of these islands. Several
war-junks are also stationed in the harbor. Though
the colonists have tried their utmost to draw some-
thing for subsistence from so unfruitful soil, yet they
would be reduced to starvation but for the supplies
of rice from Formosa. Government, also, favor
them greatly. There was lately a scarcity of grain,
and the government sent the Tsung-ping Kwan, to
distribute large quantities among them. The ma-
jority of the inhabitants are emigrants from the
Kin-mun district, of Fuhkeen province, and in
general very poor.
We went ashore, where a great number of the
populace were present at a play, given at the expense
of a captain of a junk. Scarcely had the people
beheld our books, when they grasped them with
eagerness, and read them with great attention. The
village has a very wretched appearance, but the
houses are built substantially of granite. We walked
up an eminence, followed by several people, who
put to us very curious questions, and gave themselves
the air of merchants. We were surprised to find a
light-house, on the highest part of the island, for
this is a thing no where seen on all the Chinese
14*
162
CHINA.
coast: perhaps it was built by the Dutch. Scarcely
had we gone down to the beach, when an old man-
darin, with a blue button, ordered us very peremp-
torily to stop. He then seated himself and with a
firm voice, commanded us to leave the post imme-
diately, since his excellency Woo, who resided on
the opposite islands, would by no means allow us to
stay.
April 10. The old mandarin, of yesterday, made
us a visit. When he delivered his message yesterday,
the people around us showed him so little respect,
that he found his authoritative orders would be lost
upon us, if not duly repeated. He came, therefore,
with his whole retinue, and put again the usual
questions, from what country, where we embarked,
&c. They were all in good humor, and rather
childish at the sight of so many novelties. The
present of a few lion buttons, so pleased the old
mandarin, as to change his commands to requests.
He informed us, that in his native place, several
Christians are living, who are under the charge of
an European missionary-very probably Spanish.
He repeated the name of Maria, mother of heaven,
and showed that he was a convert, or, at least, ac-
quainted with papacy. When leaving us, he advised
us to go to Formosa, where we might trade. There
were several junks in the harbor, waiting a favorable
wind to return to Formosa, for cargoes of rice.
163
CHAPTER III.
APRIL 11. On awaking, this morning, we were
near the level coast of Formosa. This island, which
has become celebrated since the establishment of the
Dutch on some parts of it, at present forms the gra-
nary of Fuhkeen. It produces immense quantities
of rice, and furnishes many cargoes of sugar. The
Formosan camphor is generally known, and exported
to all parts of Europe. Though the greater part of
the island has been subjected to China, the eastern
portion, lying beyond the range of hills which passes
through the island, is still in possession of the abo-
rigines. They are described as a harmless race,
when not provoked, but relentless when once enraged.
As we saw no individual of them, we are enabled to
speak only from report. Frequent rebellion has
tended to retard greatly the growing prosperity of
the island. The colonists, as I have said, are chiefly
Fuhkeen men, who after their arrival, labored hard
to acquire a little property. The mandarins here,
who were free from the immediate control of their
superiors, concluded that they might safely oppress
these emigrants, who were but the dregs of the
Chinese population. The colonists, on their part,
considered themselves entitled to higher privileges
164
CHINA.
than in their mother country, and opposed obstinacy
to oppression. The spirit of discontent was also
encouraged by the success of the rebels in repelling
their enemies. When all resources fail, they retire
to the mountains, and defend their liberty against
all the attacks of the numerous troops, which the
emperor constantly sends against them, to regain
and maintain his authority. There is a very brisk
trade with this fruitful island, but chiefly in the
hands of Fulikeen merchants, who have advanced
the capital for clearing the rice-fields, and for the
cultivation of sugar. There are no junks strictly
belonging to this island; all the shipping is the pro-
perty of the Amoy merchants.
It was at the early period of the Dutch conquest,
that Christianity was preached to the Formosans.
Several ministers of the Dutch church, which was
at that time imbued with the spirit of the reformers,
here spread the saving knowledge of the Gospel.
There are still extant a few books upon Christianity,
which they published in the Formosan language.
They seem, from the number of their converts, to
have been very successful; and great emulation was
created at Batavia, in deciding who should first be
sent to Formosa. While reading their simple and
short relation of their missionary efforts, we must
regret that the conquest of the island, by the Chinese,
has probably left little traces of the true Gospel.
We spared no trouble to ascertain this point, but
found every one ignorant of the facts.
After anchoring we were immediately visited by
FORMOSA.
165
great numbers of fishermen. They did not show
the least suspicion; on the contrary, they treated us
as old acquaintance, and promised to bring off some
merchants to effect purchases. They were very
eager to possess books, and came along side in great
numbers, earnestly craving them. As I can remem-
ber no effort here to spread the Gospel since the Chi-
nese conquest, I rejoiced to embrace this opportunity
of giving them, at least, the means to know it. They
were very thankful, and promised to read what had
been freely given them.▾
We afterwards went on shore and had a view of
the whole coast; the soil of which appears to be en-
tirely alluvial. The sea recedes from the land so
rapidly, that many harbors, once good, are now in-
accessible, even for small junks. Formosa has al-
ways been deficient in good harbors, and ships were
obliged, even at the capital, to lie at a great distance
from the shore, near the fort Zelandia. But latterly
the land is increased to such a degree, that large
shoals have become visible all along the coast, and
the approach to it has become very dangerous. The
place which we visited bears the name of Woo-teaou-
keang, where several junks were lying in shore, with
scarce two feet water at ebb tide. The soil is a
black sand, and as far as the eye can reach, there is
neither shrub, or grass. Carts, with wheels, but
without spokes, and drawn by buffaloes, are used to
carry the cargo through the water to the vessels.
The village is very mean, but inhabited by some
mercantile agents, whose houses are two days' jour-
166
CHINA.
f
ney in the interior. They have also hemp for ex-
portation. We saw a few agents or clerks of the
mandarins, residing here, as overseers of the exports.
The people, though secluded from intercourse with
Europeans, exhibited great interest to know every
thing respecting our ship and our country. Their
inquiries were very appropriate, and were continued
till properly answered. At the same time we had to
lament the profligacy which reigns throughout the
island, and especially in the seaports. When will
the glorious Gospel banish from the earth all the
pests of mankind?
We found here many readers, very anxious to
possess our books. Several natives set off, to call
hither some merchants residing in the district of
Kea-e. The capital of this district is a very large
town, upon a river which empties into the sea at
Woo-teaou-keang, in lat. 23° 38', long. 120° 21'.
We waited about two days for the merchants, but
they did not arrive. At length we saw the manda-
rin clerks stepping on board, with presents of tea and
fruits. By ascertaining the prices of our goods, they
endeavored to give us hope that they would probably
trade.
But unable to wait longer in so bad an an-
chorage, we got under way.
April 15. We narrowly escaped running ashore
near the island of Nan-jih, which belongs to Foo-
teen district. Several junks had anchored in this
harbor, some of which we visited and were advised
to go to Shang-hae in Keang-nan, where we might
find a ready market for our cargo. The people were
WAN-GAN.
167
communicative, and expressed their fears that we
should be unable to do much in trade, because the
natives were suffering starvation; "how could they
afford money to buy cloth ?"
April 16. We entered the Hae-tan passage, a
very labyrinth of islands and rocks, between the
Fuhkeen coast and the large island of Hae-tan. We
were near striking a rock and escaped with much
difficulty and peril. Few ships have sailed through
this passage, and it would be well that none but small
craft should attempt it again. When we had an-
chored at Wan-gan a fish boat came along side, but
the boatmen did not, at first, venture to come on
board. However, we prevailed on them to sell their
fish; and they were at length emboldened to come
up to us. As soon as they had looked around a lit-
tle, their fears vanished, and their tongues were
loosed. They had never seen a ship, and their as-
tonishment was very great in viewing its superior
structure. "What a people are they!" was their
general exclamation. In the cabin, they were struck
with its order, and adinired its carpets. Scarcely
could the savages of the Pacific islands show more
curiosity and amazement than these natives did.
They engaged immediately to bring off customers
for our cargo, and hastened home to give an account
of all the strange things they had seen.
April 17. During the night we heard the report
of guns, the sure sign of the approach of war junks.
Early in the morning we received a visit from the
rear admiral, an old stupid opium-smoker, who be-
168
CHINA.
haved in the most disrespectful and even insulting
manner. It was remarked, by his companion, a
mandarin with a crystal button, that he had lost his
understanding by the immoderate use of this drug.
We should otherwise have been at a loss to account
for his silly behavior and insolent language. How-
ever, Mr. Lindsay made to both of them a present of
pictures, with which they were very highly delight-
ed. The inferior mandarin pledged himself to bring
off some purchasers.
Near our anchorage, is the city of Chin-tan, now
chiefly in ruins. We ascended a hill which com-
manded a view of all the adjacent region. On the
top was a platform, and some stones, engraved with.
unknown characters, which seemed to have been
placed there many centuries ago. The inhabitants
had cultivated, with the most assiduous care, every
inch of arable land, and we could not but admire
their ingenuity in watering their terraced plats. The
city itself is extensive, but thinly peopled at present,
for the pirates had destroyed it. We saw a few
shops, and distributed some books.
Close upon the
shore, at the entrance of the city, stands a pyramid,
about seventy feet high, very neatly built of massy
granite, erected during the Ming dynasty. We en-
tered it, and the more we examined it, the more we
were led to admire its workmanship and durability.
In front is an ancient temple, far gone to decay.
We saw also many dilapidated images of Budha,
with negro head and hair, very similar to those in
Siam. This temple seemed to have been entirely
RUINED CITY AND TEMPLE.
169
abandoned. How earnestly should we pray, that
this may be the fate of all the fanes of idolatry, and
that in their place may rise the temples of the living
God! Whilst our company was examining the
pyramid, I read and explained some passages from
the tracts, to the surrounding people, who were very
much astonished at this new doctrine. They receiv
ed, gratefully, some of our tracts, and took the
utmost care to carry them away without being
observed.
In the afternoon we visited the young mandarin
who had been aboard. He had just risen from
smoking opium, which had stupified him to such a
degree, that he had forgotten his promise to bring
purchasers. His whole war junk seemed a den of
opium-smokers, for all the crew, in imitation of their
noble captain, indulged freely in this narcotic. He
told us that our ships had, a century ago, traded to
this place. There was nothing but the utmost po-
liteness in his conversation, at the same time that all
his remarks showed a total want of moral principle.
He seemed to be a little ashamed of the miserable
appearance of his junk compared with our ship. He
had a few cannon made of cast iron, which seemed
to be in the worst state imaginable.
There were several merchants desirous of coming
on board, who were pursued by the mandarin
boats, but escaped by a speedy flight. We returned
to our ship and found her already under way, after
being obliged to cut the cable of our friend, the rear
admiral. On our return, we met a fishing boat in
15
170
CHINA.
us.
tow of the mandarin boats, which, we afterwards
heard to our great mortification, had arrested the
poor people because they had approached too near
Doubtless their punishment will be as severe
as that of the populace at Amoy; we regret that we
did not rescue them from the hands of such cruel
men. During the night, the war junks fired their
guns continually, and threw up rockets also, both of
which we imitated with very good effect.
April 18. Owing to a continued calm, we are
still amidst the groups of islands. The want of
charts of this intricate passage, rendered our situation
very perilous. We shoaled aft to three fathoms;
and were actually at a loss how to get off again.
Having anchored opposite to a fishing village, we
visited the natives, who were at first very shy, but
when they perceived our peaceable intentions, they
became very familiar. They were much struck with
the construction of our fowling pieces, so different
from their match locks, and mistook them for opium
pipes. Their hospitality found a striking contrast to
their extreme poverty, for they invited us into their
dirty hovels, and shared with us their scanty supper.
I gave them the Holy Scriptures, by which they may
become rich in God, and find their present miseries
alleviated by the joyful and firm hope of eternal
riches.
We exchanged with them rice for fish. This ex-
cited all the inhabitants to come and enjoy the lux-
ury which they had not known for a long time, of
eating a sufficiency of rice. The smoke which was
INTERCOURSE WITH THE NATIVES.
171
soon rising in every direction, showed that we had
provided them a banquet at so very trifling expense.
April 19. To-day was a perfect calm, and we had
therefore no alternative but to wait patiently or im-
patiently for a breeze. In the meanwhile, several
fish-boats came to barter fish for rice, and were high-
ly delighted with their profitable bargain. On their
return home, they fell into the hands of the manda-
rin boatmen who towed them to the admiral's junk.
We much fear that they will suffer severely for
having had intercourse with the barbarians.
A very polite note was put on board, making
inquiries after us, and inviting us on shore. We
expected to see a very great man, who had taken
the trouble to invite the strangers, but found only a
pawnbroker. He gave himself an air of much im-
portance, and seemed anxious to inform government
of our arrival; yet he behaved with much politeness,
and showed also much sound understanding. We
were so happy to-day as to get out of this dangerous
passage, and to find ourselves once more in the open
sea.
April 21. We went on shore at Pih-keun-shan
island, which is not far from the entrance of Fuh-
chow harbor. The fertility of the island astonished
us, for we had hitherto seen only sterility. The
inhabitants had not cultivated it to the extent of
which it was capable, but availed themselves prin-
cipally of its pasturage, for their goats. The natives
lived in the most wretched hovels imaginable, and
were filthy and rude in appearance. We could not
172
CHINA.
have obtained a correct idea of pirates better than by
seeing these natives, whose very physiognomy be-
tokened great ferocity. Their language differed
widely from all the dialects which we had yet heard.
However, they could write, and thus assisted, our
intercourse was mutually intelligible. There were
no females among them, nor any comforts to distin-
guish them from mere savages. I left here some
books, the perusal of which may arouse their untu-
tored minds to reflection.
While advancing towards Fuh-chow, the capital
of Fuh-keen province, we met several war-junks,
despatched, doubtless, in quest of us. We happened
to direct our spy-glass towards one of them, which
so intimidated the crew, that they ran below decks,
and did not re-appear till they were sure of having
escaped the danger. We could only ascribe their
panic to mistaking the glass for a gun, which they
supposed pointed at them.
April 22. It is the commemoration of the Lord's
resurrection. How far from all Christian society!
How long have I been separated from the commu-
nion of the saints!
We arrived to-day in the harbor of Fuh-chow,
after having, the day before, slightly touched the
ground. The whole atmosphere is shrouded in
darkness, which obscured the landmarks at the en-
trance of the harbor; yet we had excellent pilots on
board, who brought us in safely. We are now come
to that district whence the greatest quantity of tea
is furnished for consumption in Europe.
HARBOR OF FUH-CHOW.
173
The hills where the tea is cultivated, stretch abroad
in every direction. The soil does not yield a suffi-
cient quantity of rice for home consumption; how-
ever, the exports of timber, bamboo, and teas, more
than balance the imports of rice and cotton. The
whole region is very romantic: ridges of undulating
hills, naked in part, and partly cultivated, in form
of terraces, up to the top, give the whole a most
picturesque aspect. The river, which leads up to
the capital, is broad and navigable as far as the city.
Here are no fragments of ancient edifices, or other
classic ruins, but a display of Chinese industry and
skill in all its variety. The villages and hamlets
are very numerous all along the river; often in
beautiful situations. The Dutch anciently traded
at this port; but even the remembrance of it is now
lost. Our appearance, therefore, struck the inhabi-
tants with astonishment. The entrance of the
river is in lat. 26° 6', lon. 119° 55'. As soon as we
had anchored, we were visited by the inhabitants of
the adjacent village. They made no inquiries after
trifles, but were anxious to ascertain the prices of
our cargo, and invited us to their village. Fertile
fields, sown with wheat, naked rocks, and plains of
sand, gave a diversified aspect to the whole environs.
We visited our friends in their houses, and held very
long conversations with them, principally upon trade.
They received the books with hearty pleasure, and
read them most diligently. After going through
the village, and scrambling over several cliffs, we
were intending to return, but were pressingly invited
15*
174
CHINA.
by a merchant, to partake of a supper, which he had
prepared for us in a public hall. We supped, there-
fore, upon very good fare, among an immense crowd,
who were extravagantly delighted to see us their
guests, and urgent that we should partake freely of
their refreshments. We felt very happy in the
midst of these cheerful people, who did not act on
the principle of the mandarins, that barbarians must
be treated as enemies.
attention was a war-
Hitherto we had not
April 24. Ignorant of the situation of Fuh-chow,
we started in search of it. Steering north by west,
the first object which drew our
junk, anchored in a little bay.
been annoyed by them, and we began to cherish the
hope that we might escape their vexatious visits.
The beautiful scenery on the banks of the river,
which reminded me of the Rhine, in Germany, was
enlivened by the numerous hamlets in all directions.
We came to the entrance of a second river, which
is more shallow than the first by which we came in.
Near the junction, a village is built, with a granite
jetty on both sides, are dismantled forts, apparently
without garrisons. As soon as the mandarin on the
opposite side espied us, he immediately ordered us to
return. But finding us obstinate, he tried to terrify
us by the tremendous peal of the gong. When
every measure failed, he gave us over to the mercy
of the other boats in pursuit of us. But as none of
them could come up with us, they gave up the
pursuit, and returned to their stations. When we
had passed the narrow point of the river at Min-gan,
CITY OF FUH-CHOW.
175
the boats molested us no more, and we had the
pleasure of admiring the cascades, which fell down
the rocky declivities. Farther up is an island, in
the midst of the river: the water shoals from seven
to five and a half fathoms. On the southern bank
is a large pagoda, with high, towering hills, in the
back ground, cultivated up to the very summit.
Many junks were passing to and fro, to which we
distributed books.
The river, which is here two miles broad, divides
into two branches; the northern, and largest of
which, leads to Fuh-chow. There is a lofty moun-
tain, bearing north-west one half west from this:
near the north bank of the river is a large shoal,
with two fathoms water; on the south, varying from
one to three fathoms. Perceiving, at a distance, a
forest of junks, which we supposed near the city, we
steered for them, and the city gradually opened to
view. On a nearer approach, the numerous small
craft were found to be coasters from the Che-keang
province, and vessels constructed purposely for the
carriage of timber and bamboo. The next object
which arrested our attention, was a great stone-
bridge; a rude, but substantial structure, built quite
across this broad river. The natives, from all quar-
ters, crowded around us, to behold the novel sight
of foreigners. We speedily stepped ashore, and
found an easy passage through all the crowds, whose
politeness was by no means inferior to their curiosity.
As we had drawn up a petition, we proceeded in
quest of the governor, passing through a very long
176
CHINA.
street, both sides of which were lined with shops,
richly supplied with every variety of merchandise.
Many dwellings were spacious and commodious;
and, though of wood, were built in an elegant Chi-
nese style. The eyes of all were fixed upon us, and
their reiterated inquiries were satisfied, by simply
distributing a small pamphlet, which had been
written "upon the English nation." Scarcely any
means adopted to promote a friendly intercourse,
proved so effectual, as the circulation of this paper.
My patience was exhausted by the time of our arrival
at the city gates, from whence we proceeded slowly
to the Heën's office. Here we were encompassed
by a crowd of curious police runners, who were in-
cessant with their common-place questions, till the
arrival of a demure mandarin, who asked no more
than was indispensably necessary, keeping his eyes
at the same time fixed upon the ground. We were
then shown into a small temple, and assured that
supper was preparing. Meanwhile, we were invited
to take a little warm water. Scarcely had we
finished this water repast, when a servant came with
a torch, and screaming, commanded his fellow ser-
vants to conduct us to another house of plenty.
Our swift guides had all provided themselves with
torches, and re-conducted us back to the city gate,
and hurried us through the long street, which we
had just passed. In the way, we met a strange and
gaudy procession, or rather masquerade, apparently
in honor of some god, whose huge image was borne
by people dressed in yellow. Our sudden appearance
INSULTS OF THE MANDARINS.
177
amidst such a train, threw them into confusion.
We hurried away, however, though weary and
hungry, in the hopes of being conducted to good
fare and lodgings. How great, then, was our sur-
prise, to find ourselves suddenly surrounded by a
number of mandarins, who insolently directed us to
step immediately into our boat and depart. Hwang,
a "civil" mandarin, with a white crystal button,
continued to enact his authoritative injunctions to
ears now deafened by his insolence. They, however,
enforced their orders, by pressing us towards the
water's edge, and leaving us no alternative, but to
enter the boat or the water. Their greatest wonder
was, that we should find our way to the city without
a guide; and regarding this as impossible, they
fixed on a young gentleman and myself, as the
leaders of the party. They affirmed that they had
seen us some time since; confounding us with some
sailors who had been cast away near Hae-tan, and
brought to Fuh-chow.
As we, however, expostulated with them on their
inhospitable treatment, and insisted on our right to
quarters, they promised to bring us to a boat for lodg-
ing. This we found overcrowded with people, who
had no previous intimation of our coming; so we
were under the necessity of taking our abode in the
custom house, a very airy mansion. But it did not
end here. Hwang contrived to entice us to a tem-
ple, where he had assembled his fellow mandarins
to sit in judgment over us. Thus far he succeeded
in drawing us from our lodgings, but failed in his
178
CHINA.
design, which he urged very hard, of sending us into
the street for the night. After a long and useless
debate, we quietly made quarters for ourselves in the
room where our disappointed judges were sitting.
In order to secure tranquillity, we posted a sentinel
at the door, who had, however, to perform the duty
but a quarter of an hour, when the mandarins all
dispersed, greatly ashamed of their unsuccessful
stratagem.
April 25. I was first aroused by them this morn-
ing Hwang, in very insinuating terms, inquired
after our books. When satisfied on this point, he
again tried to persuade me that I was a Chinaman,
very kindly entreating me to write down the con-
tents of the petition, that he might report it to the
governor. We had come, however, to have an au-
dience with his excellency, and therefore could only
thank him for his kind officiousness. Last night
we had been regaled upon warm water and sweet-
meats, and this morning we were expected to break-
fast on board a boat; but being vile barbarians, were
by no means allowed to take food on the shore of
the Celestial Empire. Instead of attending to these
proposals, we examined the stone bridge before men-
tioned. It is about four hundred and twenty paces
long, built upon thirty-five huge pillars of granite,
and bears the name of Wan-show, "Myriads of
ages!" Though built with extreme rudeness, and
having all the defects of unskilful architecture, it is
one of the most famous bridges in the empire. Du-
rability is a praise which it well deserves, considering
BRIDGE-FORTRESS.
179
its great length, the rapidity of the current, and the
total absence of arches.
Finding that we were only embarrassed continually
by the mandarins, we went out of their way, and
visited other parts of the city; and were making
preparations to re-embark, when our friend Hwang
made his appearance in a large boat, inviting us to
come aboard. We had had too many proofs of his
studied insolence to make another trial. There was
a large Soo-chow junk in the harbor, the crew of
which were very anxious to see us, and show their
friendliness.
In our return we walked along the shore. No-
thing could surpass the enjoyment we had in passing
through so beautiful a country; and though we had
to scramble over many precipices, our trouble was
richly compensated by the sublime prospects we en-
joyed. We distributed several books to eager and
grateful readers. Botany might here have had a
large field for its researches; but unfortunately none
of us understood any thing of it. Many people
came near us, and inquired the prices of various
articles.
The natives spoke with admiration of Mingan,
a fortress built on the declivity of a hill. We stop-
ped at the place, and ascended the hill by granite
steps till we saw one of the finest places imaginable.
The fortifications were built in the form of terraces;
several large trees overshadowed the precipitous
sides; gardens adorned both the valley and the fort;
and the town was situated at the foot of this ro-
180
CHINA.
mantic hill. Nothing can describe our agreeable
surprise, when, after having ascended one terrace,
another enchanting view opened; thus continuing,
one after another, till we arrived at the summit,
when we could overlook multitudes of the gardens
and plantations beneath us. When we descended
to the town, we were soon surrounded by the inqui-
sitive natives and sportive children. When we left,
some mandarin boats escorted us, to protect us, as we
were told. When we had gone some distance, one of
the boats came nearer, and wished to make some ar-
rangements in regard to trade, but was interrupted
by the sudden arrival of a second one.
April 26. Mr. L. and the Captain took proper
care that the unjust punishments of the natives, who
might approach us, should not be repeated here, as
at Amoy. We were visited by the mandarin of this
district, a civil and sagacious old man.
He had re-
ceived orders from the deputy-governor of Fuhkeen
province to procure a certain number of our Chris-
tian books for the inspection of the emperor. I gave
him, accordingly, one copy of "Scripture Lessons,"
a tract on gambling, "Heaven's Mirror," a full deli-
neation of Christianity, besides a few other books of
which he had copies before. I was highly delighted
that God, in his wisdom, was sending his glorious Gos-
pel to Peking, that it might be fully examined and
known in the palace. Taou-Kwang has never shown
himself an enemy to popery. In all his edicts against
the sects and heresies in his dominions, he does not
even mention the name of Christian. Though I
BOOKS SENT TO THE EMPEROR.
181
know nothing of his character, except that he de-
lights more in pleasure than in business, I humbly
hope that the perusal of the word of God will im-
press his mind favorably towards the Gospel. It is
the first time that the Chinese government has taken
the trouble to examine the oracles of God. The
depravity of the human heart, which is as great in
the rulers of China as anywhere, I fear will not per-
mit them to perceive the glory of God in a crucified
Saviour. Yet it is the cause of God. The mighty
God and Saviour will advocate his own cause, and
His mercy em-
defend it by his omnipotent arm.
braces China as well as enlightened Europe. The
Chinese are his creatures as well as ourselves, and
the Gospel is given for their salvation likewise. His
wisdom will find ways to convey it to their minds.
Though we are unable to fathom his purposes, we
wait for the glorious day when the door will be
thrown open, and the Gospel ride triumphantly
through the land.
I began, to-day, my medicinal operations with a
great number of sick people. To this even the
mandarins could not object.
April 27. A reinforcement of war junks arrived,
and the behaviour of the mandarins was immediately
changed. Though they had promised us to give
the people full permission to come aboard, they now
not only threatened them, but ourselves also. We
therefore went and complained to the admiral, who
promised redress. Towards evening the junks were
moored close around us. We requested the admiral
16
182
CHINA.
to remove so far as to permit our ship to swing round
with the tide, which he refused. The captain sent
some people on board his junk, who cut his cable.
This spread general consternation, and the following
day the whole fleet withdrew into the river.
April 29. As soon as the fleet had withdrawn,
we were visited by great numbers of traders and
patients. Yang, the local literary mandarin, came
to expostulate with us on account of the damage
done. He was a Mohammedan from Sze-chuen
province, and appeared to know a little of the doc-
trines of the Koran, for he was very careful not to
eat pork. Some Arabic sentences were familiar to
him, but the Chinese organs of speech can scarcely
pronounce the Arabic well. His joy was very great
to find some among the sailors who had the same
creed. He denied that he worshipped idols, but was
by no means superior to his Pagan countrymen in
his moral character. Whilst affirming that the Mo-
hammedans never tell lies, and with every important
assertion repeating the imprecation, " May heaven's
thunder strike me," he told the most palpable false-
hoods, unmindful of his dreadful oath. I made seve-
ral inquiries respecting the Mohammedans of China.
Many of them appear to be the descendants of Turk-
ish tribes west of China. They were never nume-
rous, nor ever had influence in the councils of go-
vernment. They pretend to serve no idols; but, if
they are officers under government, this is almost
unavoidable; for at the stated festivals every man-
darin must appear in the temple, and make his
MOHAMMEDANS-MEDICAL PRACTICE.
183
prostrations. But on such occasions they solve their
scruples by the excuse that their heart does not par-
ticipate in this abominable worship, but they exter-
nally comply with it as a mere governmental cere-
mony.
We were to-day invited to the ceremony of hearing
a reply to our petition, which had been addressed to
the viceroy of Fuhkeen. We found a number of
mandarins in a boat moored opposite to a military
station, Tang-ko, and among them the adjutant of
his excellency. Instead of receiving a reply to our
own petition, we were presented with an answer to
a statement drawn up from our petition by a military
mandarin, and presented to the viceroy. This an-
swer contained a refusal of our request. No barba-
rian ships were allowed to come to this place, and no
tea could be exported by way of sea.
We drew up
another petition, therefore, and humbly expressed
our wish for a direct answer, not to the repesenta-
tions of others, but to our own.
In the mean time I was fully employed in healing
the sick, who came in crowds from all quarters.
They were afflicted with cutaneous diseases and
ophthalmic complaints. A great many complained of
the "heart-ache," others of the asthma, and not a
few of coughs. I was highly rejoiced that they came
and afforded so good opportunities of proving our
friendly intentions. Some among them were suffer-
ing intensely, and after being relieved, showed
themselves very grateful. Their presents were very
numerous, and their letters of thanks very hearty:
184
CHINA.
I had often more than a hundred a day, and might
have had triple the number, if I had had time to at-
tend to all the applicants.
I praise God for the grace bestowed upon me, to
be a distributor of his holy word. Here was ample
opportunity to communicate these holy treasures;
for the people were anxious to see and study the
books which the emperor was to examine.
Often
when I came upon deck all hands were stretched
out to receive them; a scuffle would ensue, and loud
complaints were vented by them whose wishes were
not satisfied. I frequently visited the adjacent vil-
lages; the houses were comfortable, except from
their want of cleanliness. The people themselves
seemed to bestow little care to wash their persons
and preserve neatness; and hence the frequency of
cutaneous diseases. They were invariably friendly,
when we entered their dwellings, and communica-
tive upon all our questions. After passing through
the villages, we generally found a temple built with
great care. But a small part of this was destined to
religious purposes, the larger part was a stage. This
seems to be true of all the temples we saw, and is
truly characteristic of the regard in which the Chi-
nese hold their idols, and of the manner of worship
which they offer to them.
May 2. After waiting long for an answer to our
petition, we found that all the promises given us,
were intended merely to encourage our hopes, till
they could find some means of sending us empty
away. Even Yang, our steady visiter, took no longer
TRADE-RICe fields.
the trouble to come and confer with us.
185
Instead of
this, two very fierce edicts had been issued against
us, prohibiting every body from coming on board.
We had expressly stipulated, free intercourse, and
this had been granted and affirmed repeatedly, so
that this breach of promise was the more irritating.
We therefore decided formally to enter the harbor, or
rather the river.
May 3. This decision produced immediate effect.
The mandarins are now mild and yielding, and have
become sureties for our permission to trade.
The patients become daily more numerous and
clamerous, and the number of books distributed in-
creases. Our trade also wears a very favorable as-
pect, so that we begin to be reconciled to our
situation; withal we rejoice, that none of the natives
are punished for holding intercourse with us.
At the close of our daily business, which generally
lasted eight or ten hours, we often traversed the ex-
tensive rice fields. The people have shown much
ingenuity in laying out these fields. To satisfy
immediate want, seems to be the object of the Chi-
nese peasant. Instead of cultivating grains and a
variety of vegetables equally nutritious, he is satis-
fied to plant the rice, and seldom cultivates vegeta-
bles to any extent. Every corner is planted with
rice, and, in the cold season, with wheat, for they
have here two crops a year.
Their daily food, with scarcely any variation, is
rice, with a few vegetables as a relish. Meats sel-
dom fall to the lot of the common people, except on
16*
186
CHINA.
holidays, and even the higher ranks consume meat
more sparingly than the common people in Europe
or America. No Chinese in the southern provinces,
will admit that he has made a meal, unless he has
eaten a sufficient quantity of rice. Even at their
grand festivals, where a great variety of dishes is
prepared, they end with rice. It is not surprising,
therefore, that they undervalue all other vegetable
diets, and bestow so much pains to supply each
member of their families with a sufficiency of rice.
Gardening rarely engages their attention, for
though fond of flowers, they prefer the artificial to
the natural. They are very skillful in the fabrica-
tion of them, and females, of all ages and ranks, con-
stantly purchase them as ornaments of the hair.
We received, to-day, a paper written with red ink,
from a person pretending to be very anxious for our
welfare, because some of his ancestors had been
saved from a watery grave, by people of our nation.
He had heard that we were in imminent danger of
death, if we were so daring as to advance farther,
and so pertinacious as not to retire out of the river;
that our destruction had been agreed on, but the
Tartar general, who was to have executed this
bloody work, not agreeing to it, we were still per-
mitted to breathe. Whoever originated this plot,
(and we strongly suspect the mandarins,) ought to
have been surprised at the consternation which our
entrance into the harbor immediately threw among
all our adversaries; not even the most feeble resist-
ance was offered. The mandarins were humble and
KINDNESS OF THE PEOPLE.
187
kind; the soldiers withdrew every where from our
path, and the most perfect tranquillity reigned every
where. The people rejoiced at this happy change
and improved the opportunity to secure our friend-
ship. Their letters of friendship and advice were
numerous, and their demonstrations of kind feeling
still more frequent. To receive such treatment from
the people, and then to read, what has so often been
repeated, that the Chinese nation detest foreigners
and are averse to all intercourse with them, led us
to doubt this assertion. My little experience rather
leads me to think them a most social people, when-
ever free from the immediate influence of the man-
darins. But to say that the Chinese government
discountenances and severely prohibits intercourse
with strangers, is strictly true. In general, the offi-
cers were never more annoyed, than when the peo-
ple showed themselves our friends, and we returned
their kind feelings. They frequently endeavored to
give us the worst ideas of the stupid and treacherous
natives, while trying to prepossess them against us
also by the most abusive edicts; but on each side
unsuccessfully, for the vail was too thin to hide their
palpable falsehoods.
May 6. It is the Lord's day, and an excessive
crowd of customers are on board. We received, to-
day, a chart of the river, executed by our friend who
had given us the previous warning. He pointed out
the station of the ambush, and described the batteries
destined to blow us up. But his exhortations were
lost upon the fierce barbarians, who could not believe
188
CHINA.
any danger was to be apprehended, while the man-
darins were so dispirited.
This was to me one of the most happy days spent
in China. There was a real desire for books; and
the applications for them were in so earnest a man-
ner as to preclude a refusal. I am ignorant of the
effect produced by their perusal, but some of the
blessed effects of divine truth upon the hearts of the
readers, will remain. Considering it as the work of
God, and as the salvation of souls from eternal con-
demnation, I am prepared to hope and believe that
our Almighty God will give growth to the good seed
sown.
·
There are great obstacles to the efficacy of
the divine word, but it is quick and powerful, sharper
than any two edged sword, and is a discerner of the
thoughts of the heart. Occasionally I sat down with
the people, and spoke about their eternal peace.
Though these words sounded strange to their ears,
since every thing beyond the reach of sense, is
strange and unintelligible to a Chinese mind, yet the
words will not be entirely lost. I have often by
comparisons made the doctrines palpable to their
comprehension. They will listen for a time, but
after this it is quite useless to recommence; for they
generally withdraw their attention and turn their
conversation to other topics.
The number of patients is rather increasing; and
many of them come from a great distance. They are
very urgent in their requests, and so sure of the
good effects of the medicine that they apply them
with the greatest confidence. I received several pa-
NATIVE CHRISTIANS.
189
pers expressive of their gratitude; and a great num-
ber of presents.
Hitherto we had never seen any native Christian,
but to-day we perceived a man with a paper rolled
up in his hand which he was anxious to hide from
the other people. He asked me whether I knew the
objects there represented. Upon examination, I
found it a representation of the Trinity, executed in
Spain. From his conversation, I perceived him to
be very ignorant of Christianity, but he adduced de-
cisive proof of being a real believer. He showed me
the cross which his wife wore around her neck, with
a rosary. Yang, the mandarin, had previously in-
formed us that the number of native Christians, in
his district, was very great, especially among the
boat people. This man confirmed Yang's informa-
tion, said they were all very poor and had no Euro-
pean among them. He could give me no account
of the rise and progress of Christianity here, neither
did he seem to be aware of the extent to which it
was known in other countries.
May 12. The native Christians came in greater
numbers. One of them handed a paper, to prove
that popery was the same as our religion. He
claimed fraternity with us, and used every means of
persuasion to convince us, that as our religion was
the same, we ought to show benevolence towards.
our poor brethren. Another handed us a paper,
expressing his great surprise that we should be in
possession of the holy book, which contains the rela-
tion of the Saviour's life; the more so, because they
190
CHINA.
themselves had begun only last year to print this
holy book; and how it could so soon have reached
us, he was unable to explain. At the same time,
he warned us against giving this holy book to any
people afflicted with the blindness of heathenism,
because they would not understand its contents.
He also requested some prayer books, which he
might study privately. I was anxious to see those
parts of the holy book which his friends had already
printed; but he refused to produce them. After re-
ceiving a manual for prayer, he departed, highly
gratified. I do not know how far he was interested
in the spread of the Bible; but his objections to the
distribution of it among the heathen, are light, and
unworthy of a Christian. Yet I should rejoice if
they would print the Bible, or the New Testament
only, and circulate it among themselves at least, if
they are too narrow-minded to impart it to the
heathen.
I have been very desirous to converse with some
of the native priests; and to-day, was rejoiced to see
a well-dressed young man, introduce himself as a
Christian teacher. Whilst all the other Christians
were rude and illiterate, he exhibited much polish
in his manners, and was well versed in Chinese
literature. Yet his knowledge of Christianity was
very superficial and unsatisfactory; but he promised
to study diligently, to become acquainted with the
heavenly doctrines. I supplied him amply with
Christian books.
When will the time come, that the converts to
DEPARTURE FROM FUH-CHOW.
191
Christianity will be genuine converts; Christians
by grace, cleansed from all sins by the efficacious
application of Christ's blood!
During this period, we had been very successful
in trade; and we might have traded to a greater
amount, if we had not demanded too high a price,
and been desirous to retain our cargo for the northern
ports. Mr. L., therefore, resolved to leave this port
for Ning-po. Thither the mandarins had directed
us, and earnestly requested us to go for the disposal
of the remainder of our cargo.
May 16. Two naval officers, one of whom had
addressed a letter to Mr. L., came to make us a visit.
In that elaborate and quaint communication, he
justified their conduct in interfering with our stipu-
lated arrangements, by the orders received from the
viceroy, and excused themselves for the degradation
of our coming into their very harbor, by the dispen-
sation of fate. Instead of cherishing hostile feelings,
they crave our friendship, and beseech us as friends
to leave the port. The writer of the letter, who
seems to have expressed the sentiments of his brother
officers, was a man of very polished manners, and
cultivated mind. He frankly acknowledged his
mistake in supposing us warriors rather than mer-
chants. "Whenever," added he, "your ship may
arrive here again, we will immediately arrange the
articles for trading, so that myself will not be impli-
cated in the danger, and you will lose no time."
We asked him, whether he desired us to interest
ourselves, that he might regain the rank which he
192
CHINA.
had lost on our account.
"Only quit the harbor,"
he replied, "and I shall regain lost favor.”
May 17. We got under way, after receiving a
final visit from our warm friend, who had so often
warned us against the "imminent danger." To-
day, he acquainted us that he was a Keu-jin, a
literary graduate of the third degree, anxious to go
to the capital, and pass the examination, in order to
obtain a higher rank. As he was short of money,
however, he applied to Mr. L. for a present adequate
to defray his travelling expenses to Peking. Dissa-
tisfied with receiving so very little, he left us.
193
CHAPTER IV.
MAY 21. Highly pleased with our reception at
Fuh-chow, we now steered towards Che-keang.
Many fishermen, natives of this province, came
aboard, and showed much vivacity and decorum.
They examined every corner of the vessel; inquired
the use of the various parts; and retired, delighted
with what they had seen. In general, they were
not tall, but stout, and apparently inured to hardship.
The Fuhkeen fishermen, who spend several months
of the year along the coasts of Keang-nan and Che-
keang, in fishery and occasional piracies, are very
daring and rough seamen. No weather can detain
them in the harbors. In the highest seas, they will
venture out of their smacks into a small boat,
scarcely sufficient to contain four persons. A great
many of them, every year, therefore, are drowned.
All this peril is endured, to obtain a scanty pittance
to sustain their lives, for they are generally very
poor, and often even wanting rice.
May 25. Yesterday, we entered the Chu-san
passage, which leads to Ning-po. We did not here
observe the same crowded population which we had
elsewhere seen. All around us was silent as the
grave. Only a few villages, and some temples,
17
194
CHINA.
were visible in the distant and still recesses of the
mountains enclosing us. We soon saw several
junks, entering and leaving, one of which, from
Fuhkeen, we boarded, and found the captain inqui-
sitive, but an inveterate opium-smoker. He showed
us a Chinese map; and, being aware of its geogra-
phical errors, he was desirous of correcting and ex-
tending his information. The Chinese, in general,
are very tenacious of their errors, more especially in
geography and in nautical science. We, therefore,
admired the more this man's candor. He was from
Formosa, and was slightly acquainted with our
nation, from the perusal of the pamphlet before
mentioned. His cargo consisted of sugar, destined
for the Shang-hae market, whither, at least a hundred
junks, from Formosa, annually repair. Whilst we
were conversing with these boatmen, a mandarin
boat passed, and fired a few crackers, to intimidate
This called forth a laugh even from the sailors
of the junk. When we returned to the ship, several
mandarin boats had already come along side. In
their exterior, there was nothing superior, nor any
thing interesting in their questions. They retired
very soon, requesting us to wait further orders before
we proceeded to Ning-po, and left us.
us.
We pursued our course through a most extraordi-
nary passage, having the appearance of a broad
river. The tide was running very strong, producing
in some places an eddy, which makes the passage
very dangerous. In vain we sought anchorage, for
the depth of the water exceeded the length of our
APPROACH TO NING-PO.
195
cable; till after long search, we found twenty-five
fathoms, close to some junks, and anchored for the
night.
We saw verdant hills, but very few dwellings.
It is surprising to us to find so much fertile ground
uncultivated. We could never find the reason for a
thing so extraordinary in China.
May 26. We set out to-day in our long boat, for
Ning-po. Ignorant of its situation, we followed the
junks, which entered the river by a passage between
the land and an island. By not keeping at a proper
distance from the shore, we got upon a rock, from
which, however, we succeeded in getting off again.
Scarcely any body impeded our progress, till we came
to a war-junk, where we were hailed. On the top
of a hill, at the entrance, is a fort, the best we have
hitherto seen in China. The buildings in it have
something Gothic in appearance; and though the
garrison is not numerous, yet the fort is so excellently
situated as entirely to command the river. The
course, at the entrance of the river, is south-west :
not far up, is an island, or rather a rock, which we
first thought was the "Triangle" of the charts.
The harbor presented a very lively scene. Junks
were anchored in all directions; and, judging from
the great number of vessels constantly entering and
leaving the port, trade must be in a very flourishing
condition. Chin-hae, the place at the entrance, is a
walled town, with a great number of ships outside.
As soon as the mandarins got sight of us, they
despatched a boat in pursuit, which being unable to
196
CHINA.
overtake us, ran ashore, when the soldiers in her
jumped out, and ordered us to stop. It may appear
strange that we never obeyed these summons; but
it must be remembered that our object was to deliver
a petition to the principal magistrate of Ning-po,
and that the local mandarins, as at this place, dislike
nothing more than our gaining access to the higher
mandarins. They failed, however, here, as well as
every where; though they prevailed on a few naked
boys to throw stones at us.
The banks of this river, are so low that dikes are
very necessary: the whole region, with the exception
of long ridges of sterile hills, is highly cultivated.
It was the time of wheat harvest, and all the people
were in the fields, cutting their corn, which this year
amply repaid their labor. Even in the houses of the
peasants we remarked more comfort and neatness
than in the parts we had hitherto visited. To a
mandarin boat which had come up with us we gave
a report of our ship, and passed on undisturbed
towards Ning-po, situated about eleven miles up the
river. The noise of junk-building, and the large
quantities of timber which were piled up on both
sides of the stream, announced the neighborhood of
Ning-po. The people looked very disdainfully at us,
and repeatedly called out hih-kwei, "black devils."
In the middle of the city the river divides into two
branches, neither of which has fresh water. The
junks here were larger and more numerous than at
Fuh-chow. While in search of the principal office,
we passed a broad street, well lined with the most
NING-PO.
197
elegant shops, which even exceed those at Canton.
European manufactures, as well as Chinese, were
here displayed to much advantage. Mirrors and
pictures also, with the most splendid silks, embel-
lished and decorated the scene.
We were first shown to the office of the Che-heen,
a magistrate of a small district, several of which
make a Foo. Our names were noted down, the
particulars of our voyage inquired into, and this, as
well as all the other accounts, delivered in writing.
As soon as we had duly reported, the Che-heen, who
was an elderly man, and wore a white button, came
out, and offered to introduce us to the Che-Foo. We
followed him at some distance amidst a numerous
crowd, and finally came to a large hall with many
books, destined for the examination of the lowest
graduates, the Sew-tsae. The police runners be-
longing to this office are very numerous, but by no
means kept the people in order who thronged the
passage, and could not be prevailed on to leave their
stations.
The Che-Foo, a stout man of a very pleasing
countenance, with a blue button, soon made his ap-
pearance. Mr. Lindsay formally delivered his peti-
tion. He began immediately to read it; and after
having finished it, he turned towards us and said,
"This matter deserves our attention; we ought to
deliberate upon the subject. In the mean while I
shall provide you with lodging and board. Don't
you think this is right?" Upon receiving answer
in the affirmative, he immediately ordered his ser-
17*
198
CHINA.
vants to conduct us to our lodgings. We crossed a
floating bridge, and arrived at the leang-kung, Fuh-
keen hall. This was an extensive building, with
spacious rooms adorned with Chinese pictures and
idols. A very sumptuous supper was served up in
the evening, and every attention shown us to make
us comfortable. We were fully sensible of this un-
common degree of kindness, and made no remarks
upon the dirty room where we were to pass the
night. In front of it were different idols, all gilt ;
one of them was inscribed with the name of the
emperor, and received his regular supply of incense,
with much more attention than his neighbors.
7
May 27. During the whole night the vociferating
crowds had never wholly left us. To-day they re-
assembled, and were not less anxious to satisfy their
curiosity than yesterday. Yet they observed deco-
rum towards us, and one hint from us would silence
the most clamorous crowd. Several merchants made
inquiries after the prices of our merchandise. Some
of the inferior officers asked us what were the coun-
tries bordering on our territories in Asia, and how far
our power extended. We were upon the point of
going out to view the city, when we received a visit
from several mandarins, both military and civil.
Two of these were Turkomans by descent, and
Mohammedans by profession. Ma, one of them,
was a tall man, with a blue button, and had passed
some time at Macao and Canton. He was a very
intelligent man, well acquainted with the customs of
foreigners, and versed in all the diplomatic arts of
MANDARINS.
199
mandarins. The mandarins in general are exceed-
ingly ignorant of all the concerns of foreign countries
which are either not immediately under the sway of
the Celestial Empire, or bordering upon it. They
were astonished to hear that our India possessions
were separated only by forests and mountains from
the Chinese province of Yunnan, and could scarcely
believe that we were so near them. Ma, however,
waived these topics of petty alarms, and entered into
a full discussion upon the European powers which
traded to China. He referred to Arabia and Persia
as the cradle of Mohammedanism, and tried to re-
peat some Arabic phrases to show his adherence to
the system of religion which was delivered in that
language. He was ample in his praise of European
character, highly extolled the advantages of a trade
with them, and frequently addressed the other man-
darins upon the subject with true Persian flattery,
and empty Chinese compliments. Yet his conver-
sation was most interesting, and would have been
valuable but for being intermixed with too palpable
adulation. We received apparently the most cordial
farewell of the mandarins, who, whilst we were
going to the long boat, came down towards the river,
and bowed as long as we were in sight. The peo-
ple, who by this time had read our "pamphlet” on
the English nation, were highly gratified with such
an exhibition, and showed us the utmost attention.
We bought several articles from the shops, inquired
after others for exportation, and answered all the
numerous questions of the natives.
200
CHINA.
Returning by a circuitous route to our boat, we
came to the city wall, a very massive structure, but
overgrown with weeds, and in a state of decay. We
had here a view of the whole city. In extent it may
vie with Fuh-chow, and in population is not inferior
to many of the large trading towns of Europe. It
surpasses any thing Chinese which we have yet
seen, in the regularity and magnificence of the
buildings, and is behind none in mercantile fame.
The Portuguese traded to this place as early as the
sixteenth century. They found here a ready mar-
ket for European products, and they exported hence
to Japan a great amount of silk. After being once
expelled they renewed it again, and other European
nations participated with them in the trade till the
extortions became so great as to limit the foreign
merchants to Canton. The English East India
Company maintained a factory here till the last cen-
tury. Whilst we were at Ning-po, we received a list
of the ships which had formerly been at this port.
They seemed to be very numerous; but at the pre-
sent time no traces of the foreign trade are to be
seen, though the old people retain still a faint re-
membrance of the foreigners. Here the celebrated
Jesuits from France, near the end of the seventeenth
century, landed, and obtained permission to settle at
Peking. Two of them became the constant attend-
ants of the emperor, Kang-he, in all his travels, and
were the partners of his dangers in the Tartarian
What great results might one have expected
from such an opportunity both to benefit the high-
war.
JESUIT MISSIONS.
201
est personages in the empire, and to impart to the
people the blessings of Christianity? In these hopes
we have been greatly disappointed. Instead of in-
troducing the reign of truth, they created intrigue ;
in lieu of pure religion, they spread popery. Though
possessing the greatest talents, they never devoted
them simply to the glory of their Saviour; they ne-
ver employed them in giving to the benighted hea-
then, in their own language, the blessed Gospel of
our Lord Jesus Christ. This is truly lamentable;
that they should bestow such labors, encounter such
sacrifices, and defend their tenets with such heroism,
to found an earthly religion, which confers few
blessings in this life, and leads to a doubtful eternity.
In offering these sentiments, there is no design to
depreciate their talents, or to vilify their religious
zeal; but it is the language of deep regret to see the
salvation of the soul neglected amidst the best oppor-
tunities of securing it; and the most trifling ceremo-
nies predominate over the eternal welfare of men,
which should have been the prime object in all their
operations. But to return.
Highly delighted with the hospitable reception we
experienced, we attributed it to the influence which
the perusal of our little tract had had upon the na-
tives. Crowds of people were collected at the beach
to give us a kind farewell, whilst mandarins of all
ranks vied with each other in their expressions of
friendship.
May 28. In our return we remarked the dangers
of this passage; the water shoaled from sixteen to
202
CHINA.
one and a half fathoms. We were to-day visited by
great numbers of mandarins. Among them were
two naval officers, an aid of the admiral, and a mes-
senger from the Che-Foo. The former stated his
excellency was coming the next day to pay us a
visit. It was therefore necessary to stay and obey
in silence, till he should decide according to our
wishes. They again inquired respecting our cargo,
and one of them remarked, "You have no where
sold any thing; how can you expect to effect any
sales here?" As we, however, gave him proof of
the contrary, he departed quietly. Several war
junks, in the mean time, had anchored near us.
After having surveyed the passage, we got under
way for the entrance of Ning-po river. This sud-
den resolution threw all the mandarins into conster-
nation. They immediately left our ship, hoisted
sail, and followed us.
Having arrived at our anchorage, we fired three
salutes, which roused the soldiers from their stupor.
We now went to visit the Che-heën, of Chin-hae,
who had pressingly invited us to call when we came
down two days before. The concourse of people
was very great, and neither threats nor blows could
deter them from looking at us. Though prohibited
to land, we ascended a stone pier, and went up to a
temple, which served also for a public hall and a
stage. Here we met our friends the mandarins, and
both the Mohammedans, Ma and Le, whom we had
seen at Ning-po, joined them. They earnestly ex-
postulated with us for approaching so near the city.
VISIT TO CHIN-HAE.
203
We replied, that our laws permitted their vessels to
come immediately into our ports, without petitioning
government, and therefore we in return expected the
same liberal treatment. To this they could not
object, as they had declared themselves our warm
friends; but they remarked, that our premature en-
trance would involve the local mandarins in trouble.
We promised to interpose with the admiral in their
behalf; and, as his excellency also had made large
professions of friendship, we hoped he would yield
to our representation. Meanwhile, the people were
all gazing upon us, highly enjoying the novel sight.
In our return, we distributed many tracts, to grateful
readers; afterwards, we went aboard a large war-
junk. The commander asked some impertinent
questions, for his spirit was wounded, or rather, his
national pride had been severely hurt; therefore, he
painted in the most lively colors the displeasure of
his excellency, which they must experience. After
promising our aid to soften his excellency's wrath,
he replied, "before your face he will be friendly, and
grant your request; but behind your backs, he will
reprimand us severely, and punish us besides." We
visited afterwards his fellow-officers, who took it less
to heart. They granted that our way of despatching
business was the best; "but what could they do
who must act according to the laws of their country ?":
After having given them a store of consolation from
the Chinese classics, we returned to our ship, little
moved by the charge of rash encroachment.
It will seem strange, that whatever step we take,
204
CHINA.
we are accused of wantonly transgressing the laws
of the Celestial Empire. To persons unacquainted
with the laws and regulations of exclusion, this must
be inexplicable. "Do not approach our country!"
is the general prohibition, which would be violently
enforced, if it could be with safety. Conscious of
their physical weakness, and persuaded of the im-
practicability of their unreasonable law, the naval
officers, who guard the coast against intruders, al-
ways endeavor to prevail by threats, which they
never carry into execution, or by repeating the pro-
hibitions of the "inviolable laws." Both measures
are vain, when once a vessel enters the harbors.
They are there ready to furnish provisions, if required,
and to allow a certain trade to be carried on, which
they cannot prevent. The only condition they
make is, to leave the harbor within a stipulated time,
after which they report to their superior mandarins,
that they have driven away the barbarian ship.
Future traders visiting the coast, ought to remember
this. The more they understand the spirit of the
system, the better they will be able, without injury
to the mandarins, to obtain their object.
May 29. This morning, the admiral arrived, and
was saluted by many a shot from the guns, whilst
we only fired three salutes, which re-echoed through
hill and dale. To make the event more solemn,
the soldiers blew upon a horn, like that of a herds-
man, and accompanied this dismal sound with the
gong. As soon as his excellency arrived, measures
were taken to seize the people, who had become
PROHIBITION OF TRADE.
205
numerous, and were anxious to trade. We saved
the soldiers the trouble of beating them, and sent a
very polite note aboard the war-junk, entreating of
the mandarins free permission for the people to come
and go.
In the afternoon, we visited several villages farther
up the river, where we had before lodged a night.
So dense is the population here, that the greatest
industry, exerted upon a soil so fertile, can barely
procure their subsistence, from the small extent of
ground. In our excursion, we went to the salt-
boilers, and visited many neat shops. Even this,
our innocent walk, created suspicion in the manda-
rins, who disliked the friendly reception which the
inhabitants gave us. We explained to them, that
it was not our wish to oppose the laws of the empire,
but we could not believe that there were any laws
compelling to such misanthropy. Why not give
the people opportunity to see our faces; and, as
fellow-men, why not be allowed to visit their abodes?
To all this they replied, "Your reasoning is very
good, but our laws forbid you this intercourse."
May 30. We were to-day invited to an audience
to hear an answer to our petition. The Che-heën
of Chin-hae, talked very reasonably; but some of
the mandarins used most outrageous language, and
uttered palpable falsehoods. After a preamble about
the difficulties of carrying on trade without the spe-
cial permission of the emperor, they showed us a
circular, issued by the deputy-governor of Fuhkeen,
strictly prohibiting all trade with us. They were
18
206
CHINA.
pleased to call us deceitful and crafty barbarians,
who, like rats, sneaked into every corner. Though
this order was only addressed to the officers, and by
no means a reply to our petition, yet we were indig-
nant that such words had been used against us;
and showed that our conduct had always been just
the opposite. This answer alarmed them; and
they finally regretted having shown us a document,
which only provoked us, and did them not the least
good. It was evident, that the mandarins intended
to excuse their future oppressions, by a recital of
laws, which had been prescribed as their general
rule of conduct towards foreigners.
May 31. To-day, we removed to another an-
chorage, because the strength of the tide continually
endangered our cable. As we had received no reply
to our petition, and the communication from the
mandarins had rather ended in dissatisfaction on
our part, and vexation on theirs, a new audience
was to take place to-day, when all things should be
settled. To render this new conference the more
formal and satisfactory, the highest personages were
to attend; for we had drawn up a remonstrance for
the higher authorities. We found the two military
commanders, both of the general officers, and a civil
mandarin, with a blue button, seated under a canopy,
in the open air. On each side, they had stationed
soldiers, with fire-arms, regularly drawn up in line;
and to heighten the solemnity, a great many military
officers, of all ranks, surrounded them; whilst flags,
in the back ground, gave to the whole a martial
CONFERENCE WITH THE MANDARINS.
207
aspect. The spectators were exceedingly numerous,
but were quiet and orderly. After being previously
instructed in the ceremonies, we proceeded slowly
into the assembly, and after some explanation, were
seated. The admiral seemed an elderly man, of
very dark complexion, good humored, and of winning
aspect. He wore two peacock feathers, as proof of
the merits of his government over some barbarian
tribes in the empire. The other military mandarin
had nothing extraordinary in his appearance, but
seemed to be present merely to echo the words of
his superior. Nothing could be more striking than
their contrast with the literary mandarin, whose
looks and language both immediately showed the
bitterest enmity against barbarians. The admiral
began with stating, that many years ago an English
factory had been established at Ning-po; but having
long been discontinued, it was very inconvenient
now to recommence it. The civil mandarin com-
mented upon this in the most virulent language, till
he was interrupted by Mr. Lindsay. He briefly
stated the reasons of our coming hither, not as ene-
mies, but friends, desirous to revive those old regula-
tions which unhappily had fallen into disuse. We
founded our hope of trading on their justice and
generosity. We allowed that opposing laws existed ;
but more ancient regulations, (which, according to
the Chinese sentiment, are preferable,) gave us full
liberty to trade to this harbor. Under such circum-
stances, we were highly grieved that such abusive
language had been used against us in a public paper.
209
CHINA.
As soon as this sentence was uttered, they exclaimed
against our rudeness; and to silence our reproaches,
handed us a copy of the letter with which the deputy
governor had accompanied our books to the emperor.
Though we had received the repeated promise of the
governor that he would properly represent our cause,
and would co-operate with us in having the harbors
of the north opened, yet we perceived from this do-
cument, that he only asked the imperial sanction to
what he had done in driving the barbarians off,
without a moment's delay. He also requested that
the degradation of several officers, who had been.
remiss, should be confirmed, and concluded with
expressing his anxiety to learn the imperial pleasure.
We then presented our petition, which they at first
refused to receive. None of the general officers could
read: the literary mandarin, therefore, glanced it
over, and explained to them its contents.
The pe-
tition was then returned to us, but we did not receive
it. When we expressed our gratitude for the atten-
tion received, the admiral replied, that even if our
sovereigns had been at war, we should have been
treated in the same manner, for we were strangers.
After the audience, Le and Ma, our two friends
visited us, in order to come to some understanding
about the trade. I deeply regretted that the people
were not allowed to come aboard, since I was there-
by cut off from the performance of my duties. All
our remonstrances upon this subject proved fruitless;
and I had even to give up the patients with whom I
had commenced some days before. This was dis-
VISITERS.
209
tressing to me, for amongst so friendly a people, I had
expected a rich harvest. I felt persuaded that the
distribution of books here, would be more useful than
even at Fuh-chow, and so far as it was tried, the
experiment had confirmed my opinion.
June 1. Some Fuhkeen merchants visited us to-
day and expressed a desire to trade, but also the im-
possibility of doing so on account of the mandarins.
When they went away they assured us that we
should get no customers, unless we boldly entered
the river and left the mandarins no alternative but
compliance with our wishes. This afternoon we
went ashore. As soon as we had entered the river,
a mandarin boat came up, desiring us to return. On
shore we were surrounded by soldiers, armed with
swords and sticks. We spoke of the delay in ful-
filling their promise to trade, but received no satis-
factory reply. Ma told us that he had been absent
to-day, because he was obliged to accompany the
admiral to a temple, where he publicly and solemnly
worshipped the idols. As this was so directly oppo-
sed to the injunctions of Mohammed, I asked him
whether he did not consider himself polluted by be-
ing present at idolatrous worship. He disclaimed
all actual participation, and considered it as a mere
ceremony.
June 2. New visits from our merchants. They
seemed to be in earnest to purchase, but showed a
great deal of roguery. Yun, a naval commander of
a war junk, of Fuhkeen parents, and my friend,
came aboard with a mandarin wearing a gold but-
18*
210
CHINA.
ton. They told us that all the mandarins stationed
at Ting-hae, at the entrance of the passage to this
harbor, were to be degraded for permitting us to pass,
but he himself had endeavored to avoid this hard
sentence by bribes. As for himself he heartily wish-
ed that his superiors were on better terms with us,
and that they would give permission to trade, to the
mutual advantage of both parties. His admiral
cherished the same sentiments towards us, and con-
tested the point very warmly with the other manda-
rins. "He argued strongly to facilitate intercourse
with you; he even made the Che-Foo his enemy,
who returned indignant to Ning-po. He is also anx-
ious to visit you, but the fear of E, the Taou-tae, pre-
vents him from doing so. Our viceroy, who will
refuse you the trade, has represented the matter to
the emperor. The only course to be adopted in such
circumstances, is to send an intrepid, royal envoy,
to his imperial majesty to arrange these mercantile
concerns. If he is a man who can overawe vile in-
trigue, and maintain his point against all objections,
and if he has full authority to demand, he will sure-
ly succeed."
This was his private opinion, which, in some de-
gree, coincided with the advice received from Ma and
other mandarins.
The guns of the fort were again fired whilst his
excellency, the admiral, went to worship the idols.
We begin to suspect that he is imploring their assist-
ance to drive us away. We have been anxious to
know what all the martial preparations on shore and
EMBANKMENT-FORTS.
211
at the mouth of the river meant; and were told that
"the navy had been collected to repress the annoy-
ance of the fishermen, who are come hither with
their boats, in order to have the names of the districts
to which they belong inscribed, to prevent piracy.
His excellency has been previously engaged to settle
their quarrels, but is by no means come hither to
meddle with you, nor are the batteries and camps
for any other purpose than for display on account of
the fishermen."
We had long admired from afar, a sloping em-
bankment, made of square granite blocks, united to-
gether by iron hooks, as a specimen of Chinese
industry and ingenuity. It was made in the reign
of Kang-he, and had withstood the rage of the waves
more than a century. This is the best proof of its
superior structure, and shows that sloping dikes resist
the fury of the waves far better than massive perpen-
dicular embankments. To-day we visited this mon-
ument of Kang-he's glorious reign, and perceived
that the present generation had suffered so magnifi-
cent a work to fall into decay. It has shared the
fate of all the forts which we have yet seen. Whilst
we were going round the city wall of Chin-hae,
crowds of people had assembled upon the wall, anx-
ious to catch a glimpse of us. Wherever they
moved, the stones tumbled down in great quantities,
bearing ample witness to the ruinous state in which
the successors of the most enlightened Chinese mo-
narch have left the fortifications of the empire. Some
of the soldiers were stationed on the wall with match-
212
CHINA.
locks and bows. I asked them the reason of so
strange accoutrements, and they replied, "we are
come to look at you, in full dress." The embankment
now appeared to be several miles in length. When
we had walked to the fort on the hill, we scaled the
wall, but were requested to withdraw and make a
circuitous route back, of more than three miles; to
which we readily agreed to avoid implicating the
commanding officer of the fort. All the way we
were accompanied by a number of sharp boys, our
constant companions in all our excursions. I ad-
mired the sound understanding which these children
so fully exhibited. What they might become with
a different education I am unable to say, but I must
regret that no better institutions for the cultivation
of their minds are established, than mere schools for
reading and writing. When they are able to write
a legible hand and to compose a letter, they are dis-
missed from the school. If they intend to become
literary graduates, they tarry longer and read the
literature and laws of their country; but, after all,
their acquirements are very limited, and general
knowledge lies quite beyond their attainments. How
great a field therefore is there in China, to benefit
the people by giving their children a better education!
But the sphere for religious instruction is far greater,
for this is entirely neglected, and the juvenile mind
here never receives any direction to the knowledge of
its Creator and God.
In our return, we met the first military command-
er of the fort. He was seated with two other officers,
REASONS OF THE PROHIBITION.
213
and asked us very roughly, "where have you been,
sirs?" We replied, we have taken a walk and ad-
mired the industry and skill of your countrymen in
forming so excellent an embankment.
"But were
you aware," he replied, "that I ordered the soldiers
to stop you? These men do not know the rules of
decorum, and therefore I was afraid something seri-
ous might befal you, and came hither." We thanked
him for his care and moved with all haste towards
Chin-hae, for it had become late, and they would
not allow us to pass through the city, in order to
shorten our return. The constant crowds of people,
as
!
we passed along, behaved with the greatest
politeness and friendship.
June 3. Ma, and his friend Le, came again on
board. He explained the reason that we were treat-
ed with such suspicion. "You are," he said, "very
clever; understand making charts, are well versed in
the management of business, and always ready to
act. We know all this, and are therefore on our
guard. Some Coreans were last year shipwrecked
near us; we permitted them to travel through differ-
ent provinces, allowed them to see every thing and
to return by way of Leaou-tung to their native coun-
try; for this nation is stupid and take no notice of
the things which fall under their immediate obser-
vation. Nevertheless, if, by a proper statement to the
emperor, you can prove that your sole object is trade
and not the acquisition of power, we will unite our
entreaties with yours, that trade to this place may
be established." He himself had brought off some
214
CHINA.
money, to show us that he was in earnest to pur-
chase, and expressed his hearty wishes that others
might do the same. They would wink at the trade
with several merchants whom they had sent on
board.
We
June 4. Several mandarins, amongst them Sun,
and a clerk from the admiral, came on board, the
latter to convey the injunctions and advice of the ad-
miral. He wrote down upon paper, that if we stayed
one or two years, no trade would be allowed.
understood that a messenger from the governor was
expected to-morrow, to examine into the conduct of
the local mandarins towards us. This will involve
the character as well as the fortune of the admiral,
and several petty officers, and therefore they are so de-
sirous to get us away. At the same time it was
stated to us that the admiral exceedingly regretted,
that he did not previously permit us to trade; as this
would have shortened the business and saved him a
great deal of trouble. We expressed our hope that
in future the matters would be better managed.
When going up the river this evening, we were
forcibly stopped, but recourse to compulsory means
(which, however, would have better been omitted)
procured for us a free passage. We went near the
admiral's junk to complain of this unprecedented
behaviour. After all his repeated assurances of
friendship, we were treated like enemies. The crew
on board the junk were so numerous as completely
to crowd her, and render all naval tactics useless.
They betrayed great fear lest we should board them,
ATTEMPTS AT FORCIBLE RESTRAINT.
215
notwithstanding our assurances that no hostile feel-
ings had prompted us to come hither. All the man-
darins present promised that our trade should imme-
diately be settled, and pledged themselves that we
might reckon on their co-operation.
June 5. We had yesterday concluded our bar-
gain with a merchant sent off by the mandarins.
He promised to buy the whole cargo immediately,
and to pay partly in raw silk, and partly in silver.
This man seemed a respectable merchant in Ning-
po, and in full earnest to effect purchases. He ad-
vised us to be firm in our conduct towards the man-
darins.
We visited to-day the hall of audience, where we
also met with some inferior mandarins, who had
come with the messenger from the governor of Fuh-
keen. We were assured by them that to trade was
a thing impossible; the matter, however, should be
taken into consideration. Besides, they intended to
send a statement in our behalf to their sovereign, that
the matters might be properly arranged. After this
confirmed refusal, Ma talked with Mr. L. in private
about carrying on the smuggling trade, and asked
with much interest whether the merchants had been
on board to-day. So much for Chinese duplicity.
In order to prevent our walking abroad, they had
drawn up two lines of military before the temple.
We asked whether they considered us as prisoners,
and to their great astonishment broke through the
ranks. The people, by their extraordinary kindness,
compensated for all the hostile treatment of the
216
CHINA.
rulers, given under the name of friendship. We, on
our part, endeavored to screen them from the blows
of the police runners, who were very liberal in deal-
ing them out, and thereby occasioned much disturb-
ance. One word of admonition from us to a dense
crowd was sufficient to repress their noise and rude-
ness, and we were far more successful in managing
them than were the creatures of the mandarins.
June 7. To-day we received a document from
the Taou-tae, enjoining upon us to obey implicitly the
laws of the Celestial Empire, whose dominion ex-
tended over all the ocean, and whose power kept all
the world in subjection and awe. We were strictly
admonished to conform to established rules, and en-
joined to quit the harbor immediately. We never-
theless urged the matter further, explained the prac-
ticability of the design, and returned a paper, insist-
ing upon the fulfilment of the promises made us.
I have here given, at full length, an account of
our intercourse with the mandarins, as a specimen.
of the unvaried diplomatic policy of the Celestial
Empire. There is a short way of making an end
of these wearisome negotiations, by presuming upon
their professed friendship, and demanding the fulfil-
ment of their promises. Had our ship been a pri-
vate trader, we should very soon have disposed of all
our cargo, without encroaching upon the laws of the
country, by simply leaving them no alternative to
performing their promises of trade. This was the
course our merchants advised us to pursue; but we
ANCHOR IN THE HARBOR.
217
had definite instructions, which did not allow us to
follow our own judgment.
June 9. Bad weather and an exposed anchorage
forced us yesterday into the harbor. While our flag
was waving, we were asked whether this was not
the bloody flag. They are always suspicious that
we design to attack them, and betray their petty
alarms on every occasion. The Taou-tae sent his
clerk to-day, with several despatches, in mild language
ordering us away. He quoted at the end the pro-
verb, "Whoever obeys heaven, will prosper; who-
ever disobeys heaven, will perish." He here blends
the institutions of the Chinese empire with the laws
of heaven. One ought to possess an implicit faith
in political popery, to be guided by such maxims.
How absurd soever these theories may appear to
foreigners, they are nevertheless the principal basis
on which the Chinese found their treatment of
foreign nations; and the same arrogance and misap-
plication of the name of justice pervades all their
diplomatic documents. It may be called mere bom-
bast; but whenever a serious application of these
theories is made, the party concerned feels their inju-
rious consequences.
June 10. I had to-day the pleasure of distributing
some books, and of administering to the bodily wants
of some sick people. Some well-dressed persons
seemed to have been sent as spies upon us. We
treated them in a friendly manner, and showed them.
every thing worth seeing, and they speedily left us
to report to the admiral.
19
218
CHINA.
In order to prevent our going up the river, they
had locked the junks together by means of bamboo.
This line was broken to-day by our long boat, to
the great amusement of some mandarins, who could
not but laugh at such ineffectual measures of de-
fence. His excellency, the admiral, has long been
very sick. I offered him my assistance, but he re-
fused it, and intimated to us by Sun that he should
recover without medicine as soon as we had left the
harbor. Sun complained very much of the suffer-
ings he had to undergo from the duplicity of his
colleagues. He warned us to be on our guard
against them, for they had two mouths; and while
they used to us the most friendly language, they
would asperse our characters and thwart our plans
whenever they were in the presence of their superiors.
June 12. We had finally resolved to leave the
harbor. Ma offered us six hundred dollars demur-
rage, and a large stock of provisions, which we re-
fused; for we should otherwise have been put on
their records as beggars. Several mandarins ex-
pressed their wish that when we came back next
year, matters might be so well arranged as to permit
our trading without any further opposition. We re-
ceived several presents, accompanied with the warm-
est wishes for our welfare. The highest officers did
not scruple to acknowledge openly their regret that
we had not been allowed to prosecute a trade which
would have been so mutually advantageous. All
articles of European imports are much dearer here
than at Canton; and had we been permitted to
A
DEPARTURE FROM NING-PO.
219
trade, or even enforced the fulfilment of promises
made us, we might have realized a considerable
profit.
The curiosity of the people had always been very
great. They had constantly flocked to the beach to
look at the ship; and great crowds now assembled
to see her quitting the harbor. The mandarins,
during our short stay near Chin-hae, had used every
means to frighten us. But finding that neither the
firing of their cannon, nor the increase of their fleet,
could intimidate us, they rallied at one point, waiting
paticntly the effect of persuasion. They promised
themselves much from so subtle a negotiator as Ma,
and were highly disappointed to see him so little
successful.
June 15. We left the thirteenth, steering near
the triangle in four or five fathoms water, a depth
sufficient for the entrance of any ship, and arrived
the same day at a romantic island, Kin-tang, in the
neighborhood of Ning-po. Our anchorage was lati-
tude twenty-nine degrees fifty-five minutes, longitude
one hundred and twenty-one degrees fifty-four mi-
nutes. The mandarins had hinted to us that they
would very gladly allow the people to come aboard if
we chose to move out of the harbor. Though we
placed little reliance on this assertion, we thought it
well to reconnoitre the sea in this place, and to take
in a new supply of water. The harbor is very com-
modious and safe, but the distance which we had
entered was short.
In our excursions over this beautiful island we
220
CHINA.
7
crossed hills and valleys, and halted at several tern-
ples and houses. The fertile valleys all run in the
same direction, are intersected by rivulets, and yield
a rich harvest to the cultivators. The hills are
clothed with verdure, and furnish both fuel and tim-
ber. Most of the fruits which grow in the southern
parts of Europe, grow here luxuriantly; and per-
haps every vegetable could be raised if the inhabit-
ants would give themselves the trouble.
We ascended some of the highest peaks from
whence we could look over a great part of the island.
The beauties of nature are here exhibited in every va-
riety to a numerous and thriving people, who lack only
the blessings of Christianity to enjoy true earthly bliss.
They enjoy the fruits of their labors, because no ex-
tortioner or mandarin lives among them; and though
they pay the customary taxes, yet they can easily
afford it from the produce of their fertile soil. The
temples were very numerous, and built on the most
picturesque situations. We conversed with several
priests, and acquainted them with the way of salva-
tion. My books were rapidly distributed and eagerly
read by a great concourse of people. We admired
the neatness which reigned in the houses, as well as
in the dress of the natives. They expressed unre-
strained joy to see us. In the midst of a beholding
multitude, who had collected from all quarters of the
island, we sat down to dine, to the great amusement
of the spectators. The mandarins often characterize
the common people as stupid; but this could apply
very little to the company which we saw to-day, for
ISLAND OF KIN-TANG.
221
their remarks were just, and their inquiries showed
more intelligence than many of the mandarins. In
our return we visited a school. I conversed with the
school-master on the inexpediency of teaching young
children, like his scholars, the refined principles of
good government contained in their classical books.
He could defend such a practice by no argument but
custom. I urged him. to cultivate the intellectual
powers of his pupils, instead of merely teaching them
a certain number of characters, of which they did not
begin to learn the signification, till the lapse of two
years. He was polite enough to promise what he
doubtless never intended to perform. Several idols
are placed along the road in little shrines, to remind
the people of their religion, and to excite their devo-
tion by burning a little incense. To see so fine an
island under the absolute sway of paganism, is a
very mournful sight. This feeling is enhanced by
reflecting upon the willingness to hear which the
inhabitants constantly evinced. Many other islands
have been visited by the blessed Gospel, though the
inhabitants were cannibals and hostile to missionary
exertions; but this peaceful abode, where mission-
aries would by no means encounter all those obsta-
cles, which they meet in New Zealand, and else-
where, has never known the blessed effects of the
glad tidings of salvation. While we ought to bewail
our lukewarmness, let us prostrate adore the myste-
rious ways of Providence, when savages are called
to the enjoyment of heavenly light, and more civilized
nations are left in darkness.
19*
222
CHINA.
June 16. We had a large number of visiters on
board. Applications for medical aid were very nu-
merous; they were eager to possess books as soon as
they knew I distributed them; and it was a very
cheerful day. The word of God will doubtless find
some serious readers among the intelligent natives of
Kin-tang, and when I revisit the island, there will
be some individuals who know that Jesus Christ is
come into the world to save sinners. This joyful
hope animates me under all discouragements. I
slight the obstacles, though apparently insurmount-
able, firmly looking up to the Saviour who has all
power in heaven and earth.
tune.
In the absence of the gentlemen belonging to the
expedition, I had a long conversation with our old
comprador of Ning-po. He took the liberty of por-
traying the mandarins in true colors. He detested
the duplicity of Ma, as the source of all our ill for-
The naval squadron, in the mean while, had
been withdrawn and anchored at a great distance
from our ship, while some boats were despatched
to watch our movements. However, these boats did
not stop the people who came on board to trade, nor
did they interfere with us in any way. We now
bade farewell to the Che-keang province and moved
on our way towards Shang-hae in Keang-Soo
province.
223
CHAPTER V.
JUNE 19. We reached the banks of the Yang-tsze-
keang, which stretch out very far, and we had only
four feet of water, but very regular soundings. The
regions adjoining this river, are so low that the shore.
was at first invisible. We went through a passage,
which, so far as we know, had never been passed by
a European vessel. Our endeavors to procure a pilot
from the numerous fishing craft, proved vain; we
had therefore no alternative but following the junks
which steered towards the Shang-hae river. About
midday we saw the low coast, rendered conspicuous
by a grove of trees near the shore. In steering to-
wards this harbor, there is no other landmark than
a peak of a small island, the most northerly of the
Archipelago, and called by the Chinese, if I remem-
ber right, Seu-kung-shan. There is a safe anchorage,
and many of the junks destined to Shang-hae wait
in this harbor for a favorable wind. From hence
they steer in a north-western direction, and generally
arrive in a day or two at the mouth of the Woo-sung
river, which leads to Shang-hae. On all the banks,
during several months of the year, there is fresh wa-
ter. So long as no regular pilotage is established,
and no survey of the banks taken, the entrance will
224
CHINA.
continue to be dangerous for large ships. But so
extensive an emporium well deserves the attention of
hydrographers; so that we may soon be in the pos-
session of charts, if the spirit of mercantile enterprise
can give a stimulus to the art of the navigator.
June 20. Early in the morning we set out in our
long boat in search of Shang-hae. Several war
junks hove in sight yesterday and displayed their
bravery by firing guns. We were very long uncer-
tain where to seek the mouth of the river, because
it was about dawn, and the coast was every where
so low and uniform as to render any opening almost
imperceptible. Two forts built on either shore of
the river, whose entrance is broad, marked our
course, bearing south by west. It was about four
o'clock when we arrived and were saluted by a dis-
charge of fifteen guns from each fort, designed by
alarming to prevent our entering forbidden ground.
We cared very little for this ungracious reception,
and proceeded to sound the entrance where we found
six fathoms, but, towards the right shore, the water
shoals so as to leave only a channel for the passage
of vessels. On the left is a town; a canal leading
to Nanking branches off in a western direction. We
were met here by several mandarin boats, which in-
sisted on our immediate return.
The aspect of the country here differs widely from
Che-keang, all is one fertile flat, not much above the
level of the sea, well cultivated, without the least hill.
The ravages occasioned by inundations, are here
very great, since no banks made of this loamy soil,
BANKS OF THE YANG-TSZE-KEANG.
225
can resist the swollen river. In such low ground
one would expect many meadows, but even the
name of them is unknown. The Chinese have ta-
ken proper care to drain these marshy grounds of
water, and to render them well adapted to the cul-
ture of rice, which requires a low and moist soil.
They do not prize milk and butter, nor do they like
to rear cattle for slaughter, hence they would derive
no advantage from meadows. But to procure the
immediate necessary of life, rice, as well as to furnish
their tribute of grain to the capital, which in this
province is very considerable, all their energy is di-
rected to raise annually two crops of grain from this
fertile soil, one of rice and another of wheat.
We visited some houses which are very spacious,
serving at the same time for granaries and dwellings.
The natives are diminutive in size, and very dirty in
their persons, as well as in their houses. They
showed very little curiosity or alarm at seeing us
come suddenly upon them. While walking through
the luxuriant fields then covered with a ripe crop
of
wheat, we saw every where the people busy gather-
ing in their rich harvest. As far as the eye could
reach over this extensive plain, there was no spot
bare of cultivation or of exuberant vegetation. The
dwellings were built in small clusters; the inhabi-
tants possessed just so much land as would maintain
their families; these hamlets were very numerous.
We saw several females engaged in weaving nankeen
cloth, and afterwards examined the cotton of which
it is made, and which is of the same color as the
226
CHINA.
cloth. While we were in the boat at anchor, we re-
ceived numerous visits from the people, whose curi-
osity seemed to be raised by degrees, and who staid
along side, silently gazing upon us. They possessed
neither the intelligence nor politeness of the Che-
keang people. Some of the peasants could read, and
we were glad to present them with our books; some
hesitated in accepting them, fearing we should ask
a great sum in return; others received them grate-
fully. We greatly astonished them by firing a
fowling piece, for though accustomed to the use of
their unwieldy matchlocks, they could form no con-
ception how the powder is ignited without the appli-
cation of a match. In one of the houses, we saw
stuck up a yellow paper given by the emperor, in
token of his great respect towards an aged pair, who
had lived a hundred years. This paper with a large
present, had been granted upon the representation of
the local magistrate, who highly extolled this faithful
pair. In reading the excellent sentiments contained
in the paper, one could not avoid thinking that pa-
ternal government does really exist in theory, and
that an occasional show is made in practice. I have
often made these remarks to the natives, and exhort-
ed them to value a national government founded on
such amiable principles. They always laughed
heartily at these remarks and ascribed them either to
my ignorance or egregious stupidity. "Our rulers,"
say they, "want money, and care little about the
means by which it is obtained. If you know this,
SHANG-HAE.
227
you know the principles and practice of our govern-
ment."
We had now advanced half way up to the city,
whither many junks were proceeding. Those be-
longing to this place are of an oblong form, and
have generally four masts, and canvas sails. They
seldom exceed two hundred tons burden, are all of
them numbered, and have the place where they
belong written in very large letters along the side.
They are bad sailers, and are very frequently
wrecked. They visit, principally, the harbors of
Leaou-tung, or Mantchou Tartary, from whence
they import oil-cakes and peas; whilst they export
silks, and other manufactures of Keang-nan.
We very soon had the mortification of seeing
several boats from the city, and from Woo-sung, ar-
rive at the entrance, to stop our progress. They
were very numerous, and had several military com-
manders on board, who insisted upon our immediate
return; but our boat being a very good sailer, we
got ahead of them, and at half past four, arrived at
Shang-hae. A crowd had already collected on the
shore, to catch a sight of us. We went up a stone
pier, in front of a temple, dedicated to the queen of
heaven, who seems to have many temples and wor-
shippers in all the trading towns.
Our first steps
were directed towards the Taou-tae's, the office of the
principal magistrate, to whom we had addressed a
petition.
The city is built on the left side of the river, with
houses generally very low, streets narrow, shops
228
CHINA.
numerous, some magnificent temples, and excessive
bustle. Our visit was very unwelcome. At the
Taou-tae's office we were told that his excellency
had left this, and repaired to Woo-sung, a town at
the entrance, to have a conference with us. We
expressed our regret at this news; but having once
got to the city, we intended to take the opportunity
of fully examining this great emporium of central
Asia. The Che-heen of this district, a mandarin,
with a gold button, came out very soon to insult us,
and upbraid us severely for coming hither. After
calmly answering his objections, we reminded him
that civility becomes the rulers of the Celestial Em-
pire, and then returned to take up our quarters in
the spacious temple where we had landed. Very
soon, we became acquainted with a man who held
the office of interpreter, because he spoke both the
Fuhkeen and mandarin dialects. I have known
very few characters so stained with falsehood as this
man's. His tongue was volatile; he was a regular
opium smoker, and an abject slave of the mandarins.
Surrounded by numerous police-runners, we had
scarcely waited a quarter of an hour, when the
Taou-tae's arrival was announced. He had come
with the swiftness of lightning, and was ready to
hear our petition. Before the ceremonial question
of standing or sitting was adjusted, we passed more
than half an hour in debate. He finally rose when
we entered, and we also remained standing. He
did not wait till Mr. L. addressed him, but said in a
very stern voice, "Why don't you go to Canton, and
ORDER TO DEPART.
229
trade there? It is an unheard-of thing for any ship
to come to Shang-hae. Conform to the established
laws of the Celestial Empire, and don't trouble us with
your presence." To this, Mr. L. replied: the trade with
Canton is in a state of confusion; but that does not
concern Keang-nan province. As we allow junks
from Shang-hae to enter our ports, we think it right
to have the same privilege of coming hither with
our vessels. When he heard this, he grew very
fierce, and said, "Do not permit them to come to
your harbors, but drive them away." This is im-
possible, said Mr. L. Why?" Because our go-
vernment understands reason, and does not treat any
nation unreasonably. After a great deal of alterca-
tion, we withdrew. We had not long sat down,
when our petition was returned, and a copy shown
to us, to show that the original paper was superfluous.
As we, however, had written it for the information
of the higher mandarins, we refused to receive it back.
((
Some priests of the Taou sect had taken charge
of our bodily wants. They provided us a plentiful
supper, and showed us every attention. Indeed, we
could complain of none but the mandarins, who
wanted to shut us up, in order to prevent our going
about the city. We used a forcible argument to
dissuade them from forcing such restraints upon us,
and they very soon desisted.
June 21. Early in the morning, Mr. L. was
ordered to depart. We regarded these commands
very little, but visited a great part of the city before
breakfast. I copied a fierce edict, which had been
20
230
CHINA.
¡
issued against us before our arrival, in consequence
of some notice they had received from Che-keang,
warning them to be on their guard against our in-
trusion. We bought several articles, though the
most explicit injunctions had been issued against
selling. As soon as the mandarins perceived that
we were firm and reasonable in our demands, they
became polite, and yielded. All of them were opium.
smokers; and among all the number, there was not
one respectable man who came under our observation.
They all expected to repel us by haughtiness and
force; but in this they so completely failed, that
they now tried every means to conciliate us.
While walking through the streets, I was observed
by great numbers of my former "parishioners."
They called me by name, and were anxious to ex-
press their joy at seeing me again; but I beckoned
to them with my hand, not to endanger themselves
by any show of affection to me. They understood
me, and reluctantly complied. How often have I
talked to this people, and explained to them the
gospel of our glorious Redeemer! They are not
ignorant of his holy name, nor unacquainted with
his sufferings for all mankind. Alas! it does not
enter their minds, that they must show a living
faith, in order to become partakers of that grace
which is in Christ Jesus our Lord. Though I have
seen here very little fruit of preaching Christ cruci-
fied, I am fully persuaded, that if circumstances had
allowed a longer stay among them, I might have
gained a few for the Gospel, for they were not en-
tirely unfeeling
ENTERS THE PORT.
231
We had boisterous weather in returning, but
reached the ship just as she was entering the port,
having been yesterday ashore. The naval officers
had already been aboard, and ordered her immedi-
ately to leave the port. While entering, the guns
from both batteries fired, the war-junks also gave us
a few broadsides, which did as little harm as crackers.
As soon as we anchored, the Tsung-ping-kwan, or
river admiral, came along side, and told us, in plain
language, that we were not allowed to anchor here
for a moment. However, while we were debating
this point, our captain fired a salute in return for the
many shots; which threw him into such consterna-
tion, for the report of our guns was very loud, that
he immediately ordered his boat to return on shore.
June 22. A very fresh breeze, which would have
endangered our safety, had we been on the bank
outside. But our gracious God protects us from all
dangers, seen and unseen; his name be praised to
all eternity!
In our petition, we had pointed out the advantages
which would accrue to this province, if trade were
permitted. We used the most cogent reasons, such
as the emperor's great compassion towards foreigners,
the trade of the Shang-hae merchants to our ports,
&c., and humbly hoped these things might become
a subject of deliberation. Instead of this, our petition.
was returned, accompanied with a very angry answer.
The letter we retained, as a fair specimen of Chinese
diplomacy, but refused to receive the petition, which
had been once formally accepted.
}
232
CHINA.
$
While the captain was going up the river, we
took a ramble in the Paou-shan district. This is
on the left side of the river, a very large alluvial
tract, increasing every year, as the sea recedes. As
soon as we landed, the soldiers were regularly drawn
up, armed with pikes, sabres, and matchlocks. We
went to Woo-sung, a filthy, but populous town, ac-
companied by large numbers of people, to whom we
gave books; and escorted also by several mandarins.
We crossed many fertile fields, entered into numerous
villages, and entertained ourselves with the people,
who collected from all quarters. In this walk, we
had to jump over many ditches, which so wearied
the mandarins, that they were disgusted with such
obstinate intruders. Our return was rendered formal
by a second display of the soldiery, who were drawn
up along the embankments. Their officers behaved
like gentlemen, and spoke very friendly. We saw
several large iron guns mounted, of various calibres,
with heaps of stones near them, which serve instead
of balls. These warlike preparations were not in-
tended for us, according to the repeated assurances
of the officers, but for the customary review of the
troops.
June 23. A dark day and fresh breeze, but seve-
ral boats came along side. The people were inqui-
sitive, cringing, and even knelt when they were
about to enter the cabin. On the whole they seem
far inferior to the inhabitants of Ning-po. The
Taou-tae began to repent of his rash measures, and
BARBARIANS.
233
begged us to give back his saucy letter, that he
might frame another according to the model of those
which we had received at Ning-po; both of which
requests were flatly refused.
June 24. We reasoned our friends out of the use
of the epithet E, "barbarians," which they apply to
all strangers indiscriminately. The idea of cunning
and treachery are always attached to this name when
uttered by the Chinese. As foreigners trading to
China have hitherto patiently borne such an appel-
lation, they have been treated as barbarians. It was
highly necessary to object to this epithet, and to
show from its use in Chinese writings that the term
conveyed reproach. From this time they abstained
from the use of it, and called us foreigners, or Eng-
lishmen. They had the strongest objections to our
purchasing any thing; but regardless of this odious
prohibition, we involved some people in danger to-
day by buying of them a few trifles.
June 25. A rainy and stormy day. During all
this unpleasant weather the soldiers, whom we really
pity, are lodged under tents, and subject to the great-
est hardships, all to no purpose. The greater part
of them seem to be common ploughmen, forming a
certain sort of land militia, calculated for the protec-
tion of the coast against the inroads of the fierce
barbarians.
We received to-day a most insolent message, on
which account we moved farther up the river, that
we might come to a better understanding. As soon
as they saw us so earnest, they were kind and yield-
20*
234
CHINA.
ing. The commander in chief, a general of very
high rank, sent a message to tell us expressly that
he was our warmest friend, and well acquainted with
our heroic character, having formerly been an officer
at Canton.
June 27. Early in the morning we received a
visit from the two naval officers, who had been fre-
quently aboard. They had received orders to send
us out of the harbor to-day; and if they failed in
the attempt, they were to be degraded. To show
that they were in earnest, they unscrewed the button
on their caps, which is the badge of their rank, and
offered them to us as henceforth useless to them-
selves. The interpreter, who had no button to lose,
told us that he should be imprisoned if we did not.
leave the harbor. "They were not the only persons
implicated in the affair; but even his excellency, the
commander in chief, would incur the imperial dis-
pleasure if we staid longer. The Taou-tae, also,
was very much afraid." One of the mandarins tried
to weep, but the tears fell very sparingly; and on the
whole this intended tragedy more resembled a farce
than any thing else. If we had not been fully ac-
quainted with the lying spirit which animated these
men-if we had not known their baseness—it would
have been unjust to disregard their intreaties. But
they were the most worthless characters which we
met on all the coast, and so shameless as to deny an
assertion uttered by them a quarter of an hour be-
fore. We simply told them that we wanted to trade ;
that after having traded we should depart imme-
PERMISSION TO TRADE.
235
diately; that as strangers we never interfered with
the maxims of their government as to degrading or
promoting officers; and that we were sorry to be the
occasion of degradation to them. They afterwards.
came to tell us that they had been authorized to ask
how much of all the produce of the country we
wanted before we could leave. We gave them,
therefore, a list of all things needed, when they gained
more courage, and entered into a friendly conversa-
tion, interrupted only by their occasional groanings.
June 30. All the restrictions to free intercourse are
now taken off, though the papers posted up at every
corner of Woo sung, and most severely prohibiting
the "treacherous people from all dealings with the
barbarians," are not yet taken down. The manda-
rins themselves are anxious to oblige us, and per-
suade the people to sell their choice articles. This
sudden change greatly astonishes the people. One
shopkeeper gave a mandarin a ludicrous welcome by
contrasting the gravity with which they one day pro-
hibit a thing, with the lightness with which they
next day trample on their own injunction.
We visited a temple opposite the ship, which had
been built by a mandarin of rank, and served as a
place of public resort. There were several huge
idols, guardians of the river, and rulers of the sea.
The queen of heaven had also a shrine, which was
guarded by some demons armed with tridents. It
was very natural that they should ask me whether
we also adored these idols. They could not have
given me a better text for preaching. Accordingly,
236
CHINA.
after dwelling upon the great truth of an Almighty
Creator of heaven and earth, I reverted to the help-
lessness of their idols, which they all admitted. The
mandarins laughed at these remarks. In general
they succeed in waiving an argument which they do
not intend to follow up, but I kept them to the point
by referring to the mediatorial sacrifice of our Lord
Jesus Christ. O that this precious doctrine might
not be lost upon them! for all whom we have met
here are stained with guilt, and irrevocably lost to all
eternity, if divine power, revealed and communi-
cated through Jesus Christ, do not rescue them.
Our conversation was to-day very familiar. They
did their utmost to convince us of their friendly in-
tention, and even hinted that they had received the
most explicit orders to this effect. They claimed
brotherhood with us, and declared themselves our
most devoted friends. We only requested them to
give us more substantial proofs of their veracity than
mere words, to which they agreed. A long time we
sat in a loft of the temple, while hundreds of people
crowded around, highly pleased to catch a glimpse of
us when we were looking out of the windows.
Though the crowd was excessive, not the least dis-
turbance or altercation arose; for the mandarins did
not beat them, and they had no occasion to retort the
wrong.
We visited the fort on the left side, and saw the
internal economy of the defences of the country.
It was a very massive structure, and they had done
their best to arrange the batteries; yet the most des-
FORTIFICATIONS.
237
picable force could take it, for they have no skill in
fortification, but place their whole reliance on the
thickness of the ramparts and walls. With the
slightest inspection we perceived that both the forts
were constructed after the European model, which
they had probably received from the Jesuits. Though
the river is here more than two miles broad, these
forts might command it if the cannon carried to any
considerable distance. But the powder is very bad,
the guns are ill served and worse directed, their
touch-holes are often very wide, they are made with-
out proportion, and I am fully persuaded that some
of them would more endanger the gunner's life than
his at whom they were aimed. From the long peace
which China has enjoyed, all their military works
have fallen into decay. They even seem anxious
that all should crumble to dust, and that wars should
be blotted from remembrance. As far back as Chi-
nese history informs, this empire was never so large
as at this moment. The reigning Tartar family
has grasped dominion in every direction, and been
successful in all their ambitious enterprises. That
so happy a termination of their warlike exploits
should suggest to them that the nation is invincible,
and can defend itself without fortifications, is not
surprising. Their contempt of European tactics,
without the aid of which they rendered whole na-
tions, north and west of China, tributary, is as natu-
ral as the Turkish military bigotry, while they van-
quished Europe.
Notwithstanding, it is really difficult to ascertain
238
CHINA.
1
the means by which so extensive an empire is kept
together. Persons in the least acquainted with Chi-
nese institutions, can by no means ascribe it to the
wisdom of the theoretical laws of the Celestial Em-
pire. Many of them read excellently, but cannot be
reduced to practice, because they are not adapted to
existing circumstances. Others are trampled on
both by mandarins and people, and few are strictly
observed. Nor can we ascribe this political pheno-
menon to the internal vigor of the dynasty. So far
as I have known the Tartars, they are great cowards,
and they have received their political lessons from the
Chinese. Apparently, the principal means which
confirm their administration are bribes, which are
profusely distributed to those who have the disposi-
tion to question their authority, and the power to
enforce this questioning.
But in all this we ought to look higher, to an
overruling Providence, which upholds nations by
imperceptible means, and subverts kingdoms which
can bid defiance to every earthly power.
That pacific disposition which generally marks
the Chinese rulers is truly praiseworthy; for though
often cruel, they detest bloodshed, and have gene-
rally made the greatest sacrifices to prevent it.
attach no blame, therefore, to their cowardice; but
hope that, while they continue to be pacific, they
will cease to be overbearing towards other nations,
who have power to humble their arrogance.
We visited also the barracks, those abodes of
misery for the ill clad and worse fed soldiers.
They
CHINESE ARMY.
239
are chiefly taken from the dregs of the people, such
as have no other resource for a livelihood; the most
emaciated in appearance, and the most immoral of
the whole community. Though our arrival had
subjected them to great hardships, many of them
had contrived to get a new jacket, to appear at least
decently. During the time of our visit, they endea-
vored to be as friendly as possible: having no tea,
they presented us with warm water. Their officers
repeatedly exclaimed, "What a miserable state our
men are in!" for the utmost wretchedness was de-
depicted in their countenances. We saw the arrows
hanging round upon the wall, but could espy no
bows, which, they said, were on the opposite shore.
There is little uniformity in their armor; some
having swords, others matchlocks, a few pikes, &c.
The division to which they belong is written in
large characters upon the front of their jackets.
Their dress is the same as that of the people; but
they have a cap which marks the distinction. Some
parts of the Chinese army have the character Yung
"valor," written upon their jackets behind: and
it is rather characteristic of their bravery. Even the
soldiers are forced to become agriculturists. In cer-
tain parts of the empire, fields are laid out, which
they cultivate for their subsistence; in other parts,
where they have no farms of their own, they hire
themselves out as servants to the peasants, and
plough the fields, till they are called for the military
reviews. The greater part of the officers are very
illiterate, and have risen from the ranks. There
240
CHINA.
!
are, however, military examinations, as well as lite-
rary, and degrees of bachelor, master, and doctor, in
military tactics, regularly conferred. They have
the same degrees as literary mandarins, and wear
the same badges of rank, buttons or knobs, on their
caps; yet they are regarded both by the literary
mandarins and the people, with the greatest contempt.
Their salary is very small, their resources slender,
and their situation not at all enviable. Many of the
general officers are Tartars, who enjoy great salaries,
besides often some lucrative civil offices. As long
as the peaceful state of China continues, their office
is but a sinecure. The army is no ways distinct
from the navy; an officer or private quitting the one
and entering the other, without any difficulty, for
they both rank alike.
A great part of the navy is manned by Fuhkeen
men, and the natives of the eastern part of Canton
province. The common soldiers, as well as their
officers, belong generally to the place which they
garrison. It is only in case of extreme danger that
they are drawn off to the frontiers, and then by de-
cimation. The actual military force differs greatly
from the numbers on the books. It is the practice
of the officers to draw the full allowances, without
having the receivers in pay. It may suffice to leave
them on paper, so long as the Celestial Empire
wages a paper war with European powers, and she
is too cautious to try the experiment of the sword.
By the various accounts which we had read in
the "Lettres Edifiantes," we were prompted to visit
ISLAND OF TSUNG-MING.
241
the island of Tsung-ming. Though we passed
very near it in entering the Woo-sung river, yet we
could scarcely perceive it, because it was so low.
We set out at half past nine, A. M., steered north-east
by north, crossing banks, and passing near and be-
tween several other islands, all of which were for-
merly shoals, which have gradually increased in
height and extent, till they are now habitable. On
reaching Tsung-ming, we entered a creek, where
we found a junk at anchor. The island is entirely
alluvial, formed by the Yang-tsze-keang, and the
whole country is low and almost level with the sea.
To facilitate agriculture, the people have intersected
it by creeks, and thrown up some dykes, which
prove an ineffectual barrier against the high tides.
The country was very densely populated, in separate
clusters of two or three bamboo cottages. The
ground was sown with rice, Barbadoes millet, and
some culinary herbs: we found also apricot and
peach trees, and apples of very inferior quality.
We bent our walk towards Ho-chin, about two
miles distant from the sea, and found it interesting
and pleasant to pass through such richly cultivated
fields. At first, the natives were much astonished
at our sudden appearance, having never seen a Eu-
ropean; but they soon became familiar and friendly,
because we distributed books among them freely.
It afforded me great satisfaction, as the first protestant
missionary, to tread this spot, where once a regular
mission of the Jesuits had been established. We
had taken with us a great number of books, chiefly
21
242
CHINA.
of the scriptures. At first, they hesitated to receive
them; but, on glancing at the contents, the people
became clamorous for more. I satisfied their re-
quests, as long as it was in my power; but had then
the mortification to send away numerous applicants
empty.
We scarcely any where experienced such friend-
ship as among these islanders, all of them seeming
very anxious to oblige us, and prove that the Chinese
character is exempt from misanthropy. Chin-ko
itself is a very flourishing borough, with numerous
shops and many pawnbrokers among them, who
seemed to be the richest men in the community.
The concourse of people was so great, that we could
scarcely pass through the streets; but there was no
rudeness, and they rather seemed interested to show
us every thing worthy our attention. Finding
several persons in a temple engaged in gambling, I
presented them with a tract on gambling, when
they started up, astonished at our unexpected
and unwelcome gift. At our departure, one
man offered Mr. L. the conveyance of a wheel-
barrow, which, being pushed on by one man, not
only accommodates with a seat, but with room for a
little baggage. We had a numerous train of well-
dressed persons, who continued their intelligent in-
quiries all the way. Striking also was the appearance
of so many healthy boys, playing around us with
their characteristic glee. They were not entirely
frivolous, however, but would occasionally turn to-
wards us, and put some intelligent question, which,
KINDNESS OF THE ISLANDERS.
憋
​243
when satisfied, they communicated to each other.
Great numbers stood on the shore to give us a hearty
farewell, and lamenting that we could give them no
more books. When we were approaching the forts
at the entrance, we were met by a mandarin boat,
sent in pursuit of us. The officer stationed to guard
against barbarians, drew upon himself a very severe
punishment, for his alleged failure in duty. He was
led around blindfold, with a bamboo stuck through
his ear, and a label, on which was written, "As a
warning to the multitude, this culprit has his ear
pierced, for having neglected and disobeyed the
martial laws: by the military commander-in-chief
of Soo-sung."
It was in vain to lament such severity, for the
great mandarins were determined to wreak their
vengeance on the inferior grade. As for us, we had
enjoyed the satisfaction of visiting the island undis-
turbed, and of seeing the Chinese character in its
true light, that of friendliness and kindness towards
foreigners. Our mandarin friends had thought us
entirely ignorant of the existence of such an island;
they were therefore highly exasperated that we had
dared to discover it, and note it in our charts.
Judging from their efforts to keep Europeans ignorant
of their country, they can scarcely believe that we
have any knowledge of them, and are even ac-
quainted with their most celebrated cities. How
astonished were they, therefore, when we mentioned
the principal districts composing the Keang-soo
province, and the canals leading to Nanking.
244
CHINA.
Hence they concluded that some treacherous native
had betrayed his country, and brought the barbarians
to the most fertile portions of the Celestial Empire.
While seeing our maps, which had been made in
the reign of Kang-he, they showed very little interest
to become acquainted with their construction, because
the names were in foreign characters.
July 5. We revisited Shang-hae: though the
wind was unfavorable, the tide enabled us to reach
the place at half past seven o'clock. We took our
quarters at the temple of the queen of heaven,
where the crowds gathered around us again. I
began with distributing the scriptures to them, as
the best means to promote their eternal happiness.
They seized them eagerly from my hands, and im-
mediately retired to read them leisurely.
Confounded at our unceremonious visit, the man-
darins came in great haste to the temple. They
were at this time more humble and yielding than
before, yet they had stuck up two outrageous pro-
clamations, which I immediately copied. They also
attempted to prevent us from going into the city, but
we passed through another gate which they were
unable to shut. We now bought large quantities of
silk, and some trifles; to which they at first made
great objections, but very soon granted to us the
liberty of buying, though they nominally prohibited
the shopkeepers from selling. I distributed tracts
house by house and nobody interfered. Highly
grateful for the favor of the Most High bestowed up-
on his most unworthy servant, of being the bearer of
REVISIT SHANG-HAE.
245
his precious Gospel, we returned to our old quarters,
where the priests who had constantly shown us great
kindness, had prepared a very substantial dinner.
The mandarins afforded us every facility to do our
business, and we ought to be truly thankful to them,
for it was the first time that they showed good will
towards strangers.
It will not be amiss to remark here that Shang-
hae ranks after Canton in importance. Though
this may not be the only emporium near the Yang-
tsze-keang, and thus the only place for importation
to Keang-nan, the junks from all the southern pro-
vinces, are prohibited from proceeding to the harbors
north of this great river.
There is always a brisk trade carried on, which
would be much increased, if Europeans were admit-
ted to the port. The consumption of foreign articles,
among the many millions who inhabit central Asia,
is very great. Hence the imports far exceed the
exports; the latter consist chiefly of raw silk, silk
stuffs and teas, besides manufactures fabricated by
the skillful hand of the Keang-nan people. Ships
bound to this place, might touch at Sha-po in Che-
keang province, Hang-chew district, and at Soo-chow,
a little south of Woo-sung river. This latter place
is one of the most populous and delightful districts of
the whole Chinese empire, and might fully claim the
poetical name of Arcadia. That so large a field for
mercantile enterprise has been hitherto overlooked, is
really surprising. The fear of infringing Chinese
laws has deterred ships from even attempting to open
і
21*
246
CHINA.
commercial intercourse. It is true there are obsta-
cles, but not insurmountable; they are surely less
than at New Zealand and Madagascar. If we con-
sider the luke-warmness with which these regions,
containing so many millions of immortal souls, are
viewed by most of the Christian world, we are con-
strained to weep bitterly. Whilst blind fanaticism,
nourished by attachment to popery, has found ways
and means to penetrate into these regions, we are
satisfied with the bare excuse of alleged impossi-
bilities. If mere fanaticism can conquer the obstacles,
ought we not to expect that true Christian enthusi-
asm will prevail? Can we not fully believe that the
constant prayer of the church, with a firm reliance
on the divine promises, will gradually open the way?
If the heralds of Christianity might not at first be
permitted to stay, nobody will prevent them from
passing along the coast, and the numbers to which
they may thus have access are very great, and well
repay the trouble. Let us not object that the Chi-
nese laws of exclusion are very severe; they are
nominally so, but lose that severity in the same de-
gree with which they are resisted with firmness and
Let it rather be remembered that these
millions of inhabitants are anxious to cultivate friend-
ship with Europeans, and never object to receiving
our Christian books. I speak from facts against in-
veterate opinions; and though I am conscious of
having done but very little for the advancement of
the kingdom of God in Keang-nan, yet I am fully
persuaded that my successor will succeed better.
reason.
FORMAL AUDIENCE.
247
July 6. Two messengers were sent from Soo-
chow in order to settle our affairs; one of them a
Foo-tseang, military mandarin with a red button,
and the other a civilian with a crystal button. We
were formally invited to this audience to bring mat-
ters to a conclusion. They were seated in the hall
of the temple opposite to our anchorage, and receiv-
ed us with the greatest friendship. After the usual
compliments, we sat down near them, and the Foo-
tseang, who was the chief speaker, inquired whether
we had been at Shang-hae and had bought the ne-
cessary articles. He rejoiced very much that we were
satisfied with this visit, and had no complaint against
the mandarins. Mr. L. was very eloquent in show-
ing the reasonableness of permitting us to trade.
They urged the invariable laws of the Celestial Em-
pire, as their general rule. We referred to laws still
trade to all the Chinese
more ancient, permitting a
ports. They then requested us to represent the mat-
ter to our king, that he might send a proper person
with powers to negotiate an arrangemeat. When
our respective sovereigns had agreed on the matter,
they would rejoice to give us free permission. They
ended with a declaration of the friendly feelings
which they cherished towards us.
Whilst they were thus confident of having con-
vinced us that they were our warm friends, we pro-
duced those offensive edicts which I had copied, and
which breathed nothing but enmity. They were
ashamed of the language in which they were couch-
ed, and would have denied the existence of such pro-
248
CHINA.
clamations, had we not copied them only one day
since. The whole conversation was conducted in a
spirit of amity, the best understanding reigned
throughout the whole, and we began fondly to be-
lieve that these men would take the trouble to trans-
mit our representations to the viceroy of Keang-nan.
Mr. L. deserves credit for pleading so well the cause
of his countrymen, and though we did not reap the
advantages of such a conference, we hope that others
may be benefited by it in future. The people also,
who saw that we were on so good footing with the
mandarins, rejoiced at such a happy change.
In the evening we went to the opposite side of the
river to visit some of the hamlets, scattered every
where over this alluvial soil. The cottages are gene-
rally built among a cluster of trees, and would be
very pleasant, if care were taken to keep them clean.
But even the smell of the exhalations from the en-
virons, is so offensive that one scarcely dares to enter.
All the fields yield very good crops, but the number
of the inhabitants is sufficient to consume their most
abundant harvests. After distributing some books
to very attentive readers, we went higher up the
fields and turned towards the fort. This threw the
garrison into consternation, and some soldiers came
out to prevent our proceeding further; but they were
very unceremoniously driven back by the second of
ficer of the ship, who was one of our party. We
inspected the batteries, passed several ranks of sol-
diers, and finally came up to the officers near the
fort, who besought us not to enter, because their su-
GARRISON-DEPARTURE.
249
periors had forbidden it. There was an open stable
for the horses belonging to the imperial cavalry; but
it appeared that no care was taken of the ponies,
which constitute all their horses, but that they were
left to shift for themselves. Their barracks outside
of the fort having been destroyed by water, they
readily afforded us every comfort in their power,
which amounted to permitting us to sit down in
these stables. They repeated the gross lie, that they
were collected here for a military review and not
solely on our account; whilst they complained most
bitterly of the literary mandarins, who left them un-
der the open sky. Whilst the rain poured down in
torrents, they were obliged to stand up to their knees
in mud. We consoled them in the best way we
could, and answered many questions which their
curiosity dictated.
To extenuate his harshness, the Taou-tae had
sent a more reasonable edict on board, but as the
seal was wanting we returned it, to the great con-
sternation of the interpreter and the mandarins.
The Taou-tae afterward was prevailed upon to im-
print his official seal upon the document.
July 8. After having bought, and received as
presents, a great quantity of provisions, we prepared
for our departure; (our anchorage had been lat. 31°
23', long. 121° 20.) The two days previous, they
had given the people permission to come on board.
Our visiters were, therefore, very numerous; and I
enjoyed an excellent opportunity of distributing the
word of eternal life: some sick persons also were
250
CHINA.
benefited. Our visit here has had a most beneficial
influence upon the people; and the mandarins have
learned to relax their severity. They made it their
principal business to-day to praise us beyond bounds,
representing our character as the most amiable on
earth. But they are so despicable for falsehood, that
their vain talk influences us little.
After having made them a few presents, which
they hid under their clothes, we bade them farewell.
They were very kind to offer us their convoy, to
which we could not object.
As soon as we had left the harbor, they fired most
valiantly, leaving us no doubt of their heroism; the
military camps were immediately withdrawn, and
the mandarins began to breathe freely. Had we
come hither as enemies, the whole army would not
have resisted half an hour, for they were all dispirited ;
and the mandarins went so far as to report that one
soldier had actually died at the sight of our second
mate the war-boats are unable to keep out the
smallest well armed ship; and the people highly
disapprove of the restrictions upon trade. All this
we have fully ascertained, and make report of it, to
draw the attention of missionaries, as well as mer-
chants, to this interesting field. At the same time,
we should highly disapprove of violent measures to
obtain an object, which might be gained by firmness
and resolution.
As the heat has been very oppressive, and the
musquitoes numerous, we were happy to leave this
ISLAND OF LEW-KUNG-TAOU,
251
marshy country, where all had fallen more or less
sick.
The tide being in our favor, we advanced slowly
over the banks, followed by the imperial convoy, to
protect us against the pirates in our way to Canton.
Captain Rees, our naval commander, in this unex-
plored passage, and in the most critical moments,
displayed the greatest skill in extricating the vessel
from most dangerous situations. By his consummate
skill and coolness, he rendered the greatest service
to the expedition. He has also made accurate charts
of the harbors which we visited.
July 14. Without suffering in any way from
our passage near the banks of the Yang-tsze-keang,
we arrived at the promontory of Shan-tung, at
Wei-hae-wei, where the English embassy formerly
touched, lat. 37° 8', long. 121° 20′. We immediately
landed at the island Lew-kung-taou, inhabited by
fishermen, who were astonished at our sudden ap-
pearance. In walking over the hills, we experienced
from the natives more than one instance of reserve
and unfriendliness, which seemed depicted on every
countenance. Most of the people refused or returned
our books; though some had the boldness to receive
and read them. The houses are built of granite,
and covered with sea-weed: the people seemed very
poor, and indeed poverty reigns all over Shan-tung
province. They are stronger, and apparently much
more healthy, than the inhabitants of the southern
provinces; but the females, on the contrary, look
pale and languid. Nothing can exceed the clown-
252
CHINA.
ishness of these natives, who, though born in the
land of Confucius, the great author of ceremonies,
are regardless even of the common rules of decorum.
The odor of garlic which proceeds from them, keeps
every stranger at a distance, and is often quite in-
tolerable. But they are more honest than their
southern countrymen; and, if well trained, would
make good soldiers; for of all the Chinese which I
have seen, they are the bravest. Necessity obliges
them to seek the hospitable shores of Mantchou
Tartary, where they find plenty of work, and various
means of subsistence. Thither they have lately
flocked in great numbers, and formed very large
colonies, which greatly contribute to the prosperity
of both countries. All the natives speak the man-
darin dialect with great fluency, and any one who
would learn to speak it perfectly, would do well to
stay among them some time.
As soon as the ship had anchored, a mandarin,
of very large stature, came aboard, rudely entered
the cabin, and made the customary inquiries. He
seemed reserved, and not a little perplexed, at our
arrival: several of his fellow-officers followed him;
and among them, a literary mandarin, from Peche-le
province, of very pleasing manners. He was parti-
cularly anxious to know all the places where we had
touched, and the times of each. According to orders
received from the emperor, we were not allowed to
go on shore. But to console us, they all spoke
largely of the poverty and insignificance of Wei-hae-
LAST VISIT.
253
wei, and strongly recommended us to go to Leaou-
tung, where we might trade extensively.
After dinner, we went ashore; and, though
strongly urged by a military mandarin to proceed no
further, we did not listen to his injunctions, but pro-
ceeded slowly along side of a wall, till we reached
the top of a hill. Here were two stones, with in-
scriptions, from which we learned that this city had
been built during the Ming dynasty, and repaired
during the reign of Yung-la, (1423.) The inroads
of the Japanese are mentioned, and this city consi-
dered a firm bulwark against their invasions.
When the mandarin perceived that we persisted
in our walk, he smote his breast most furiously, and
seemed entirely frantic. In walking through the
fields sowed with wheat, onions, garlic, Barbadoes
millet, and culinary herbs, we saw a team, consisting
of an ass, a cow, and a mule, yoked together, which
presented the most ludicrous appearance yet seen
among Chinese agriculturists. On our return, we
stipulated with our mandarin guide, that provisions.
should be sold us; and he called an old man, who
now became the speaker, and explained to us every
thing relating to the place. I had the pleasure to
observe, that the more civilized part paid more regard
to our Christian books, than the fishermen had done,
and we distributed several among them.
July 16. Fully expecting that the mandarins
would keep their word, we went on shore, but found
the people backward to sell provisions, but every one
willing to impose on us. Wearied with evasions,
22
254
CHINA.
we met the mandarins, who were seated in the
area of a temple, devoted to the queen of heaven.
They complained, that we had taken a fowling-
piece on shore, and fired it several times. We
excused ourselves by saying, that it was our constant
custom to go armed in an unknown country, and
that fowling was our diversion. But after all our
requests, we were obliged to depart without effecting
our purpose.
We now stretched over to Corea, and boarded two
junks, bound to Teën-tsin: one of them was from
Siam, and all the crew recognized me.
255
CHAPTER VI.
JULY 17. A stiff breeze brought us in sight of
Corea. A merciful Providence has brought us
through many dangers, along the coast of China,
and oh that we were truly grateful!
Before entering on any details of our transactions
with this singular nation, I will give some account
of the country.
Corea, called by the natives Chaou-seen, as well
as by the Chinese, who besides name it Keaou-le, is
separated from Mantchou Tartary by a wooden wall.
The waters on the western coast are overstrewn with
islands, which on the charts of the Jesuits have been
blended with the main land, so that the longitude
of this peninsula is placed two degrees too far west-
ward. Those parts of the country which we saw,
were very fertile and well watered; but thinly in-
habited, and still less cultivated. Though this was,
indeed, but the outskirts of the kingdom, we cannot
think the interior is as thickly inhabited as the ma-
ritime provinces of China. Their state of barbarism,
cherished by the odious system of exclusion, which
has no where, by a maritime nation, been carried
farther than at Corea, does not admit of a numerous
256
COREA.
and flourishing population; nor do we think there
are any large cities to be found.
The king may well be styled "the sovereign of
ten thousand isles," for the whole coast is studded
with islands, of every shape. Though his kingdom
is powerful enough to maintain itself independent,
he has long submitted to pay tribute to the Celestial
Empire, four times a year.
The kingdom was known to the Chinese as early
as the times of Yaou. At different periods they
attacked the "middle kingdom," and often proved
victorious. It was natural that they should early
adopt the Chinese writing character, the use of which
prevails among them to this time. Several domestic
broils, which seem to have been fomented by Chi-
nese policy, together with the variety of tribes inha-
biting the country, seem to have kept this kingdom
in barbarism, from which it did not emerge; while
their neighbors, the Chinese as well as the Japanese,
made rapid advances in civilization. As soon as the
Ming dynasty ascended the Chinese throne (A. D.
1368), the Coreans sent an ambassador to Hung-
woo, the emperor, desiring the inauguration of their
king with the imperial seal. This was readily grant-
ed, and Corea was henceforth considered a tributary
kingdom. During the reign of Tai-kosama, the war-
like emperor of Japan, Corea was repeatedly invaded
by the Japanese, and finally conquered. The Chi-
nese tried in vain to expel the Japanese, for they
maintained themselves with the utmost bravery;
and so far from yielding up Corea, they disquieted
HISTORY--TRADE.
257
all the Chinese coast with their fleet. It was at this
time that Christianity, or rather Popery, was first
promulgated in Corea; for the generals of the Ja-
panese, and many of the soldiery, were Christians.
When Tai-kosama died, the Japanese general in
chief withdrew to his own country (1598), after the
war had raged seven years. Thus were all the fruits
of the repeated victories lost to the Japanese. The
Chinese did not fail to establish their authority as
supreme masters, to whom all the earth should bow.
Since that time the country has undergone little
change. The king cannot reign without the impe-
rial sanction, nor can he himself confirm the choice
of a colleague or successor; all these must be sanc-
tioned by the court of Peking. In other respects it
is an independent kingdom, and the Chinese meddle
very little with their internal administration. Its
subjects are not allowed to visit other countries, nor
are even Chinese admitted to settle among them.
They trade with the frontiers of Japan at Tuy-
mataou, which is opposite to the Corean island of
Kin-shang. Their trade with Chinese and Tartars
is carried on at F'ung-hwang-ching, the frontier town
of Mantchou Tartary. This traffic is conducted
with great secresy and circumspection, lest one na-
tion should spoil the other, and thus tend to subvert
their ancient regulations. Nothing is more ridicu-
lous than to see the people so tenacious of ancient
and useless forms, rather than desirous to keep pace
with the march of improvement.
We could never discover the staple articles of ex-
22*
258
COREA.
port from this country. Judging from the climate
and from what we have seen, we think there must
be a great variety of the productions which we find
in southern Europe. The natives were very desirous
to persuade us that their country produced nothing
for exportation; but their trade with Japan and
Mantchou Tartary proves the contrary. Full allow-
ance should, however, be made for the uncivilized
state of the country. Instead of allowing the Chi-
nese to come over from Shan-tung to cultivate a
large quantity of waste but arable land, they choose
to live on salt fish rather than to have intercourse
with foreigners. As long as this system of exclu-
sion, of which they boast, continues, they must al-
ways remain in the lowest rank of nations.
We came to anchor at Chwang-shan, an island
north of Basil's Bays. The silence of the desert
seemed to reign every where. We ventured towards
the shore, and the first thing we met was a fishing-
boat, miserably constructed, with two natives in it,
clothed in rags. Though we could not communi-
cate with them orally, yet we could use the Chinese
character in writing. We gave the old man a few
books, and lion buttons, which highly delighted
him. As soon as we had landed on a small island,
several natives came down from a hill, wearing
conical caps of horse-hair, with jackets and trowsers
similar to the Chinese, but wider and without but-
tons. Nothing could exceed the gravity of their
look and demeanor. An elderly man, who held a
staff, bade us sit down by repeating several times
CHWANG-SHAN.
259
"tshoa." After complying with his request, he made
a long harangue, of which we understood not a syl-
lable, but in which he seemed very earnest. From
his unequivocal gestures, and from a young man
whom we had the happiness to find, who understood
a few Chinese words, we afterwards learned that he
was pointing out to us the regulations of his country,
and the duties of strangers on their arrival.
They thought to be able, by persuasion, to keep
us on the beach; but how great was their astonish-
ment to see us hastening up the hill! When we
turned in the direction of their dwellings, they made
a firm stand, and would by no means permit us to
proceed. What suggested this precaution of not
allowing us to look at their miserable clay hovels we
could not find out; however, we desisted from the
attempt to intrude. On the hill we found a species
of lily and rose growing wild, but no appearance of
the least cultivation, though the soil was evidently
fertile. When we descended, they offered us pipes
and tobacco, and seemed satisfied with our obedience.
They inquired very minutely into our ages, our sir-
names, and our country. The old man was anx-
ious to impress us with the grandeur of Keaou-
le-wang (king of Corea), that every body ought to
fear him, and to be inspired with awe at the mention
of his name.
July 18. We started for a village which we saw
yesterday from a hill. As soon as we stepped ashore,
some persons took the trouble to conduct us to their
village. Many of them wore large brimmed black
260
COREA.
hats, most elegantly platted. Their frocks, made of
a sort of grass cloth, reached down to their ankles,
and had very long and wide sleeves, which served
also as pockets. Most of them wore stockings and
shoes, very neatly fitted to their small feet. They
are not tall, but of middle stature, have Tartar fea-
tures, and the most symmetrical shape. They tie
their hair on the crown of the head, and if married
put a conical cap over it; but unmarried persons
wear long queues, like the Chinese, but do not shave
the head. The females, whom we saw at a dis-
tance, wore short jackets, and had the hair platted
in a different way; and in appearance they were in-
ferior to the males. Considering the degrading state.
in which they are kept by their husbands, it is no
wonder that they are destitute of those attractions
which belong to the sex in enlightened countries.
Among the people who came to us was a man
with a matchlock of European manufacture. He
had also a powder-horn, and seemed well acquainted
with the use of fire-arms. We could not make out
from whence he had gotten this piece; it seemed
very old, and of a superior quality. If we might
conjecture that some European ship had stranded on
this coast, and the natives had thus possessed them-
selves of some European articles, it might account
for the indifference with which they examined some
of our curiosities. More than two centuries ago, a
Dutch ship was lost upon this coast, and the crew
detained for several years, till one escaped and pub-
lished at Amsterdam an account of his sufferings.
CHRISTIANITY IN COREA.
261
A few Jesuits were also permitted to enter the king-
dom during the last century, but we do not remem-
ber that any European nation has traded to this
peninsula. Some priests proposed to the late queen
of Portugal to send an embassy hither, with some
gentlemen versed in mathematics, that they might
benefit the country both in a religious and scientific
way. There were at that time men of high rank
at the court of Corea, who had professed Christianity,
and would have used their influence to promote the
objects of a foreign power in establishing commercial
intercourse. This plan never succeeded. Accord-
ing to all accounts which we could collect, there are
at present no Europeans at the capital, and Chris-
tianity is unknown even by name. We do not
know how far we may credit the detailed accounts of
persecutions which the Corean Christians endured,
and endured with heroic firmness. If so many
thousands as is said had been executed on account
of their belief, Christianity would live in the recollec-
tion of the natives at least as a proscribed creed;
but we could discover no trace of it. The same mi-
santhropic system of restriction is continued till this
day, nor do we know when it will please Providence
to remove these insurmountable obstacles.
We were anxious to walk up to the village, but
were stopped near a miserable hovel, where several
natives, in a respectable dress, met us.
We were
desirous to barter for some cattle, which were abun-
dant here, and were inquisitive to know the resi
dence of a great mandarin, to whom we might hand
262
COREA.
a petition addressed to his majesty. On the plea of
bearing a letter to the monarch, we wished to be
treated with civility. They wrote down, "Please to
communicate to us the contents." Answer, "How
dare we communicate the affairs of so great a king.
to his subjects?" They replied, "Report it to the
mandarins, and they will report it to the king." We
then desired them to call a mandarin of the first
rank, to whom we should communicate our inten-
tions. They pointed out to us the residence of such
an officer, who lived only a few miles to the north,
and bade us get immediately under way, to free
them from so troublesome company, and to gain our
object. Another told us plainly, if we did not im-
mediately retire, he would call soldiers to drive us
instantly away, and our lives would be endangered.
I asked him what rank he held to entitle him to
use such language, and threatened to report his in-
solence to the mandarins. This softened him, and
he asked simply, "What time do you think to de-
part?" Several natives made the sign of behead-
ing when we offered some trifles for their accept-
ance; others secretly pocketed some buttons, and
one received a book, and immediately returned it,
exclaiming, "pulga," which we interpreted to mean
fire, or burn it! There was very little. chance of
giving books in a direct way.
Their conduct formed a contrast with the be-
havior of the Chinese. Had we now left the penin-
sula, we should have reported to the world, in
addition to the accounts of other travellers, that the
Coreans were the most misanthropical people in the
FISHERMEN.
263
world, with courage enough to repress every intruder,
so that threatening and injury were all which could
be obtained there. From our first interview with
them, I very much doubted this, but had no sufficient
reasons to urge in supporting my opinion of their
cowardice, and willingness to yield any thing firmly
demanded. Though they very plainly showed their
inhospitable feelings towards us, we could yet per-
ceive a conflict in them while treating inoffensive
strangers like enemies; for the native feelings of hu-
manity which are in the breast of every mortal, can
never be entirely eradicated.
We got under way again and visited a large fish-
ing boat which was at anchor. The structure of
these boats is very rude, and in a high sea, they are
entirely unmanageable. We could not conceive how
they could hold together, as no iron, not even a nail
is used to unite the parts. There is neither order or
cleanliness aboard; they are as slovenly in their
persons as in their boats. As the boatmen were un-
der no restraint from the observation of their coun-
trymen, they showed us a great deal of cordiality.
Unable to repay a present of books which we made
them, they gave us tobacco leaves, highly delighted
that we condescended to accept them. Every place.
where we afterwards met with Coreans alone, we
found them as good-humored and obliging as these
fishermen. Thus we ought to ascribe the hostile
feelings shown towards strangers, to the iron rules
which the government inculcates. We cannot think
that those signs of decapitation, made by the people
264
COREA.
on shore, were merely for pretence, but begin to be-
lieve from the universal adoption of this gesture, that
government would punish every transgressor with
death, who dared to cultivate friendship with
strangers.
July 23. After coming to anchor between rocks
and numerous islands, we visited one of the peaks
near us. When we had left Chang-shan, we ex-
amined some picturesque caves formed by the dash-
ing of the waves. There were pillars, many of them
as regular as if formed by art, which were composed
of a very hard, brownish basalt. Some parts had the
appearance of a regular church, built in Gothic style,
but in ruins; others formed small niches, and others
were like the fragments of pedestals and cornices.
We amused ourselves a long time among these won-
derful works of nature, till some seals, which were
frisking about in the bay, caught our attention.
They feared no assault from us, whom they had
long eyed with a great deal of curiosity; we shot
and caught one, which furnished a great quantity of
oil for consumption on board.
During all this time the fogs were very dense,
rendering the navigation among the numerous rocks
and islands dangerous. The wind often blew very
fresh and dispersed the mists for a short time, after
which we were again involved in impenetrable dark-
ness. During the afternoon, it cleared up a little,
and some fishermen came from a village to the right
of our anchorage, to make us a visit. They invited
us to come ashore. We accepted their invitation and
A COLLATION.
265
hastened towards their wretched dwellings, to par-
take of a collation, which they offered us. When
we had overcome their scruples, we ascended a hill
and seated ourselves on a sloping spot in front of
their houses. But to render the visit as harmless as
possible, this house had been previously evacuated,
and we only caught by chance the sight of a woman,
who ran up the hill at full speed. We were regaled
upon dried salt fish, and a sour liquor, in common
use among the Tartars. But before entertaining us,
they partook of the fare themselves; they were
greatly troubled, therefore, that our Lascars would
not taste the things offered them. They would not
believe that it was religious superstition, which caus-
ed them to refuse this present; for, possessing very
few religious feelings themselves, they find it hard
to believe that others are guided by them. During
all the time, we made many inquiries about the
country, the residence of the mandarins, &c., but
had the mortification to find, that though we amply
satisfied their curiosity, they gave us no satisfactory
answer to the most trivial questions. All this con-
versation was carried on by writing the Chinese
character, which, though differently pronounced by
the Coreans, conveys to them the same meaning as
to the Chinese.
July 24. A large boat came along side, and be-
fore the people came on board, they sent up a slip of
paper, expressing their sympathy with us in our
hardships from winds and weather, and assuring us
that they did not come to intimidate us. Those
23
266
COREA.
who entered the cabin, called themselves mandarins
and made very free with the rum. They inquired
politely our country, and remarked that we had an-
chored in a very dangerous place, adding, we will
bring you to a bay called Gan-keang, where you
may find safe anchorage, meet the mandarins, ad-
just the affairs of your trade, and obtain provisions.
We did not follow their advice in going to-day, be-
cause the weather was very hazy, but promised to
follow their direction to-morrow.
The principal man of this company was very com-
municative; yet he would not tell us the name of
the king, but simply said that he had reigned thirty-
six years, and ruled over three hundred cities.
They know the Chinese money, "cash," which they
said was also current among them, but they had
never seen a dollar. "In our country," said they,
"there is silver as well as copper found." One of
them explained to us a Chinese classic in his own
native dialect, reading very fluently. We showed
him a Chinese statistical work, which stated that the
king of Corea sent a tribute four times a year to
China, and asked him whether this was true.
answered without hesitation, this is the fact.
He
July 25. The clouds dispersed, and we enjoyed
again a little sun shine; our friends also returned
and brought pilots aboard. When their excessive
desire for spirits was satisfied, we got under way, and
with wind and tide favoring, soon reached Gan-
keang, and found very convenient anchorage, shel-
tered from all winds. Our pilots were numerous
GAN-KEANG-MANDARINS.
267
and clamorous, since all wished to command, but
one only understood the way. As soon as we had
anchored, several mandarin boats came along side.
A brisk little fellow, named Yang-chih, who styled
himself a mandarin, sat down all the questions and
answers which Teng-no, the man who came yes-
terday, had already recorded. All seemed cheerful
and happy that we had come, and promised that we
should soon have an audience of the great manda-
rins, to whom we might deliver the letter. The
capital was stated to be only three hundred lees dis-
tant, so that we might expect a speedy answer. They
were particularly anxious to gain our friendship and
gave us great hopes that we had not come in vain.
July 26. Fresh boats came along side; and the
same questions were repeated till the two great man-
darins arrived. They were both elderly men of
venerable aspect; in their dress no way distinct from
the common people, except a small piece of bamboo
hanging down their side, on which their rank and
station were written. Both of them wore cloaks,
made of transparent skin, well adapted to protect
from rain; their large hats were also covered with
the same material. They inquired particularly the
time we sailed, and came purposely to console us for
the hardships endured in so long a voyage. We
had to explain to them why England was called
Great Britain, and why India was called Hindostan.
Their questions were very brief and imported little;
we were therefore glad that they left us shortly af
terwards. How surprised were we, when about din-
268
COREA.
ner time, small dishes were handed aboard, contain-
ing dried fish, soy and liquor, which were placed
upon low tables, and we were requested to sit down
and partake of a meal. This peculiar mark of hos-
pitality we regretted that we were obliged to refuse,
since it was absolutely nauseous to our taste. All
the sailors were invited, but nobody dared to touch
what the natives themselves must have found diffi-
cult to swallow.
As we intended as soon as possible to deliver the
letter and presents to his majesty, we employed a
great part of this day in packing them up. Mr. L.
very kindly requested me to make up a set of the
Bible and of all the tracts which I had, to send them
in the present to his majesty. I had hitherto enjoyed
the great satisfaction of seeing the people who came
aboard, receive our books gladly; and now I strongly
hoped that the ruler of so secluded a country might
be benefited with the perusal of the oracles of God.
Could he receive a greater gift than the testimonials
of God's love in Christ Jesus, offered to sinful crea-
tures? I highly rejoiced to have an opportunity of
communicating to him those doctrines, which had
rendered me happy for time, and, I hope, for eternity.
Accompanied by our two negotiators, Tengno and
Yang-chih, we set off with the presents, consisting
of cut glass, calicoes, camblets, woollens, &c., and
the letter written in Chinese character, and wrapped
in red silk. Arriving in front of a paltry village, we
were told that the great mandarins had gone out,
and that we could not expect an audience. Then,
PRESENTS SENT TO THE KING.
269
we replied, we shall wait till their return; and pro-
ceeded towards one of the lanes which lead through
the village. There we were met by a soldier,
wearing a large-brimmed hat, with a great quantity
of red hair hanging down. He held a trumpet, and
as soon as he perceived us, began to blow upon it,
both to give notice of our arrival, and to frighten us
away. Mr. L., who was by no means intimidated
by this martial music, entered into one of the houses.
Meanwhile, the two mandarins, one of the military
class, whose surname was Kin, and the other of the
literary class, surnamed Le, both made their appear-
ance, sitting on an open sedan chair, carried by four
men. They immediately ordered, that the sentinel
stationed at the lanes, who had suffered us to proceed
so far, should be punished. The poor fellow threw
himself down upon the ground before the chair, and
awaited his punishment, which was to be inflicted
by blows with an instrument similar to an oar. At
this critical moment, we interceded, and told the
mandarins, that if this innocent man was punished
on account of us, we should immediately withdraw.
Such an interposition had the desired effect, and the
soldiers desisted from inflicting the punishment.
The spectators were delighted with this act of hu-
manity, and we were now going to transact our
business. But the mandarins ordered that a shed
should be set up on the beach, mats spread on the
sand, for us to sit upon, whilst our hosts had seated
themselves on tiger skins. We very soon explained
to them, that such incivility, in not permitting us to
23*
270
COREA.
enter a house to settle public affairs, quite surprised
us; and that, if our letter and presents could not be
respectfully received, we were ready to withdraw.
This had the desired effect. They sent one of their
creatures to empty a house, and finally introduced
us to the outside of one, where we squatted down
upon the "sloping place." Before we entered, a
poor fellow was seized, laid prostrate before the
mandarins, and received two strokes over his thighs,
under the pretence of improper behaviour in public
business, but in reality to impress us with due awe
of mandarin authority.
After our formally delivering the letter and pre-
sents, they handed us raw garlic and liquor, and
promised speedily to forward the things entrusted to
their charge. Meanwhile, they sent us two pigs, a
little ginger and rice, aboard; a very satisfactory
proof of their good intentions. Though apparently
their laws do not permit foreigners to enter their
dwellings, we met every where with as much friend-
ship as could well be expected from barbarians.
Tengno and Yang-chih came during the night,
to make further inquiries. They were anxious to
know how many kingdoms a ship must pass, in
coming from England to Corea? Of how many
cantons and districts the English dominions consist?
"How far does your relation with China extend?
Are you also tributary to the 'middle kingdom?"
On inquiry, we found that their whole system of
government is on the Chinese model. They have
the same examinations, the same ranks, and offices.
CONDUCT OF THE MANDARINS.
271
Anxious to ascertain how soon an answer from the
capital might arrive, we were told, there was some
chance in thirty days, for it was now one thousand
lees distant, (yesterday it was only three hundred.)
To show them the incorrectness of this assertion, we
showed them the map, and pointed out the capital.
Astonished at the knowledge which foreigners pos-
sessed of their country, they confessed, after some
evasions, that they had told us a falsehood. Lying
seems to be as common a vice here as in China.
The behaviour of their mandarins is equally incon-
sistent as the Chinese, if not more so.
When we
beg, nothing is granted; when we demand, every
thing is obtained.
July 27. The names and ages of all our ship's
company were again noted down with great precision.
We were informed that all these things would be
properly stated to the king, though we could not
find the reason that his majesty was so anxious to
know the name of every Lascar. They asked most
minutely, what communications we had at Chang-
shan, why we had not delivered our letter there, and
how many people we had seen. These two chiefs
dined with us the inferior one behaved very rudely;
but Kin, the military man, showed much decency.
We found some difficulties in procuring their per-
mission to go on shore. As soon as we stepped
ashore, we were met by a soldier, who intended to
stop us; but when he saw that we hurried on, he
made the sign of beheading, and ripping open the
belly, as the unavoidable punishment awaiting him,
272
COREA.
if he suffered us to proceed. However, our guide
Tengno upbraided him, and his sour face forced
itself into a smile. We walked over the whole
island, of which only the small part in the immediate
vicinity of the village, is cultivated. The greater
part is overgrown with grass and herbs, and would
furnish excellent pasturage for goats; but we saw
not one. In point of vegetation, the coast of Coreal
is far superior to that of China, where barren rocks
often preclude any attempt at cultivation; but here,
where the land is fertile, the inhabitants do not
plough the ground. The field for botanical researches
in this remote part of the world, is very rich. On
the top of the hill, we saw a stone building, which
we afterwards ascertained to be a temple.
We walked over the silent habitations of the dead,
which are here merely mounds of earth, thrown up
without any regularity. A very venomous serpent,
which infests this place, was shot by Mr. L. The
natives showed great dread of them.
About nine o'clock, our usual examiners, Yang-
chih and Tengno, arrived. They desired to know,
of what wood the ship was made, the height of the
mast, the number of cabins, &c. &c. "What do
you intend to do with all your cargo ?" We wish
to sell the whole. "What do you wish to receive
in return?" Either gold or silver, copper, drugs, or
any other commodity which would suit our market.
To this they replied: "Our gold comes from China,
our copper from Japan: we have very little silver;
but iron we have. For Chinese commodities, we
RELIGIOUS NOTIONS.
273
give paper and straw cloth." From their statement,
it appeared, that the tenets of Confucius were the
popular belief. They have temples erected in honor
of the founder, believe his doctrines infallible; and,
though they worship idols, they detest Budhism, and
are unacquainted with Taouism.
In avowing their belief of the immortality of the
soul, they did not explain themselves upon this im-
portant point, but grew angry when we expressed
our doubts of their entertaining any serious thoughts
upon so consolatory a doctrine. We never discovered
in their houses any traces of idolatry, nor did we
ever witness them performing any religious rites.
From all it appears that they are a very irreligious
nation, and by no means anxious to become ac-
quainted with the salutary doctrines which may
afford consolation in life and death. We had fre-
quent opportunity of speaking to them of the Saviour
of mankind, whilst we explained to them the time
of the commencement of our Christian era. They
heard and read repeatedly, that Jesus Christ, God
over all, was also their Redeemer; but their affec-
tions were never roused. Such callousness of heart
bespeaks great degree of mental apathy, which
seems to be very characteristic of the Coreans. Yet
I provided those who were willing to receive the
Gospel, with books, and they promised to bestow
some attention to the subject, and took great care to
keep possession of their books. To my great sorrow,
our visiters were afterwards prohibited by the man-
darins from receiving any more books, or any thing
274
COREA.
whatever; so that they did not dare take even a
button. Previous to the issuing of this order, how-
ever, all the officers and clerks had received the word
of life. At the same time, I had given them small
treatises on geography and history, and I feel confi-
dent that the prohibition will enhance the value and
increase the eagerness to read the books. At all
events, it is the work of God, which I frequently
commended in my prayers, to his gracious care.
Can the divine truth, disseminated in Corea, be
wholly lost? This I believe not: there will be
some fruits in the time appointed of the Lord. It is
highly interesting to know, that the people even of
the lowest classes, can read, and delight in reading.
They seem, by no means, so bigoted to their own,
as to be jealous of the introduction of another creed.
When the people saw that their chiefs received the
books, they pressed forward to obtain the same gifts.
This encourages us to try again to devise ways to
introduce the Gospel amongst a nation apparently
almost devoid of any religion. Our Almighty God
will remove those political barriers, and permit us to
enter this promising field.
Our friends were greatly apprehensive that we
might tell the mandarins, what we had learned from
them of their king. They said repeatedly, "should
they hear that we told you he has one wife, and
that the capital is only three hundred lees distant, we
shall lose our heads." By promising the most pro-
found silence, we induced them to ask several things
about our capital; but they were highly dissatisfied
MANDARINS FROM THE CAPITAL.
275
that we could not give the exact number of military
officers stationed there.
July 30. Two mandarins, of whom one was a
general by the name of Kim, and stationed at the
Tsee-che-to district, came to visit us in order to con-
sole us for our hardships. Both of them were dressed
in most elegant silks. Kim wore a string of amber
beads to fasten on his hat, in which was stuck a pea-
cock feather. They showed a great deal of dignity
of behavior, and never interfered in any business
which did not concern the immediate object of their
missions. Our old friend, Kin, meanwhile prepared
a dinner, consisting of cakes, vermicelli, honey, pork,
melons, salad, vinegar and rice. This time, they
had taken all possible care to make the whole pala-
table, and we did not fail to enjoy their hospitality.
They were greatly delighted with our cheerfulness,
and that we did not refuse the well-meant though
scanty dinner of Corea. After dining, we requested the
honor of their company to our table to-morrow. To
this invitation they gave no decided answer. These
men had quite the appearance of courtiers, and we
did not doubt, had been sent from the capital to ex-
amine our affairs. Though we expressed this opin-
ion to them, they always denied it.
This afternoon we went ashore to plant potatoes,
giving them in writing the directions, necessary to
follow, for insuring success. Even this act of bene-
volence they at first strenuously opposed; for it was
against the laws of the country to introduce any fo-
reign vegetable. We cared very little about their ob-
276
COREA.
jections, but expatiated upon the benefits which
might arise from such innovation, till they silently
yielded.
While we were engaged in explaining our motives
in walking around, one of the guard in attendance
on the general, who had been negligent of his duty
to drive away the surrounding populace, was about
to be punished in front of the place where we were
sitting; but at our request he was immediately re-
leased. It seems their maxim to impress foreigners
with the rigor of their discipline, that they may know
how to respect such powerful mandarins.
We visited, to-day, the temple on the hill. It con-
sisted of one small apartment hung around with pa-
per, and salt fish in the middle. There was no
other idol visible but a small metal dragon which
rested on the ground. From the inscription on the
outside, we learned that the temple was erected in
the third year of Taou-kwang; the names of the
contributors, with their several sums, were carefully
noted down in Chinese taels.
July 31. General Kim came to-day to prohibit
us from going any more on shore, because he had
received the strictest orders from his superiors to pre-
vent us. "You are our guests," said he, "and
guests ought to conform to the rules the host pre-
scribes." We quoted some passages from the book
of rites, which enjoin the host to give his guest the
fullest liberty to walk about and to be at ease.
When he read this he exclaimed "hota, hota!" (good,
good,) and never touched that point again. We be-
EXCURSIONS ON SHORE.
277
gan now to grow impatient at receiving no answer
to our petition, nor the provisions which we had
been desired to write down. The general only told
us, that we ought to wait quietly till an answer from
the capital arrived.
We took a sail to-day in order to ascertain whether
we were near the continent, or among the islands.
The spot which we visited, was covered with wood
and the most excellent timber in every direction, but
we saw scarcely a human being in the neighborhood.
So long as we have been here, we have not seen an
orchard or garden. To-day we found peach trees
growing wild in the jungle, and some days since dis-
covered wild grapes. It is astonishing that the in-
habitants do not plant these useful trees; yet in all
our rambles, we never saw more than one peach tree
reared by the hand of man. They are ignorant of
wine, though they occasionally eat the grapes, which
are rather sour. I described the mode in which we
cultivated this excellent plant, and the pleasant beve-
rage made of the juice of the grape. This they could
hardly believe, for the wine, they said, which they
had drank on board, was sweet, and therefore could
not be extracted from sour grapes. On the whole,
the food of this people seems to be very scanty; they
eat every thing and swallow it voraciously. It is
most lamentable that so fertile a soil in so temperate
a climate, which might maintain its thousands, now
scarcely subsists a few hundreds.
August 1. There is a marked change in the be-
haviour of mandarins and people no visit us; all of
ייז
.. 110
24
278
COREA.
them are very reserved, and cautious, in answer-
ing any questions. Formerly we had made them
sundry presents, which they gladly and gratefully
received, but now they try to force them back. We
suspect that some prohibiting orders from the capital
have arrived, but we cannot come at the truth.
Mr. L. had been daily collecting words for his voca-
bulary, but now they refuse to give the shortest sen-
tence. For they fear that by learning their lan-
guage, we may converse with them and influence
them to adopt sounder policy. Now and then we
grow impatient at their childish reserve, and again
are reconciled, for no strangers ever enjoyed such
privileges here as we do.
In our excursions we came to several houses lately
deserted. There were generally two apartments in
each, shaped like ovens. The kitchen was a sepa-
rate building adjoining the house. To heat the
room in winter, they had a large hole under the
floor, by burning a proper quantity of wood in which,
the whole apartment was kept warm. Every house
is surrounded with a fence of dry bamboo: these cot-
tages are generally built very compact and in squares,
having sinall lanes between the squares. Such are
the dreary abodes where the Coreans pass their life
amidst filth and poverty.
We met with many individuals whose skin was
regularly incrusted with dirt; many had not washed
themselves for months, and were covered with ver-
min, which they did not hesitate to catch and to
despatch in our presence. They scarcely possessed
any thing; their utensils were clumsy; their vessels
CONDITION OF THE PEOPLE
279
made of earthen ware, of the coarsest kind imagi-
nable; and besides these they had nothing else. As
long as we have been here, we have never seen one
copper coin. Since their mandarins are so elegantly
dressed, and possess all the conveniencies which their
limited world affords, the people must needs be con-
scious of their wretchedness. In their intercourse
with us they always showed a great deal of sound-
ness of judgment. We cannot charge them with
laziness, but we fear they want the necessary stimu-
lus to exertion. Government does not permit them
to enjoy the fruits of their labors; they are therefore
indifferent to the possession of any thing beyond
bare necessaries of life. Would their present state
have been what it is, had they been allowed inter-
course with foreigners? "Exclusion"
may have
kept them from the adoption of foreign customs, but
has not meliorated their condition. Walking over
these fertile islands, beholding the most beautiful
flowers every where growing wild, and the vine
creeping among weeds and bushes, we accuse
lord of nature," man, of shameful neglect; for he
could have changed this wilderness into an Eden.
Let the Gospel penetrate into these regions, and as
far as it is accepted in truth, misery will cease.
"the
August 2. New boats from the capital arrived
very early, and we received a hint that a great man-
darin was coming to make us a visit. He proved to
be a literary mandarin of the third rank, wearing
under his chin a beautiful string of amber. In his
haughty deportment he showed all the ignorance of
280
COREA.
the peasant, and the arrogance of the barbarian.
Woo, a commissioner sent to treat with us, followed
him very soon. He had a very pleasing counte-
nance, was cleanly and elegantly dressed, but disco-
vered very little ingenuity in his questions, and was
exceedingly reserved. Our visiters to-day were more
numerous than on any previous day; among them
were several conceited young men, who used very
impertinent language. I have hitherto had constant
applications for medicine. To-day I was requested
to furnish a sufficient quantity for sixty old persons,
all suffering under a very severe “cold.”
August 5. Woo is so minute in his inquiries, that
it is difficult to answer them all. He insisted upon
examining the chests of the Lascars, and all the
cargo which was aboard. We gratified him in the
former demand, and would have done so in the other,
if he had only brought one hundred thousand dol-
lars aboard to purchase it. In the enumeration of
kingdoms passed in coming out, he insisted on the
most exact catalogue, asked the time required to re-
turn to England, and come back again, &c.
August 7. Old Kin brought back the letter and
presents in a state of the utmost agitation. He said
that he had endangered himself by receiving them
and promising to deliver them to the king. "In a
very short time a mandarin of high rank will ar-
rive, who will settle the whole business." We did
not receive the things returned, but sent the old man
disconsolate away.
We took a cruise to ascertain how far the bay
ROYAL COMMISSIONER.
281
where we were at anchor extended inland; for on
the Jesuits' charts it is marked as entering very far
into the peninsula. After having passed our usual
limits of excursion, the bay became broader and
broader, the country less inhabited, and the scenery
very wild. We went in a north-west direction, where
the bay again opened to a great extent, but the limits
of which we could not discern, though we ascended a
hill whence we could survey all the country around
us. The people were so exceedingly shy, that they
ran off in great haste as soon as they perceived us;
but from the opposite shore they came off to us, and
gladly received a few books. We finally ascertained
that the large projecting point was an island, and
separated from the main land only by a stream which
disembogues into the sea. Had we gone in a north-
east direction, we should very probably have arrived
at the capital, or at least have approached it so near
as to reach it within a few hours; for all the boats
with the great mandarins came from that direction;
and when stating to some of the clerks our conjec-
ture that we had been near the capital, they first
wanted to deny it, but afterwards admitted that it
was true.
August 9. We finally had the pleasure to see the
royal commissioner come on board. He stated that
he was sent by the treasurer, and after some intro-
ductory remarks said: "To receive your letter and
presents is illegal; we ought to ascribe the mistake
to the great age of the two mandarins whom you
charged with this business; but as an illegal busi-
24*
282
COREA.
ness, we cannot represent your affairs to his majesty,
and accordingly returned all to you. Our kingdom
is a dependent state of China; we can do nothing
without the imperial decree; this is our law. Hi-
therto we have had no intercourse with foreigners;
how could we venture to commence it now?" In
our turn we asked why they had retarded our depar-
ture so very long, always requesting us to wait for
the royal answer? It was true that they had never
had any intercourse with foreign nations except the
Mantchou Tartars, Chinese, and Japanese; but we
came hither for the purpose of bringing on such an
intercourse for the mutual benefit of both nations.
Besides, Corea is no dependant state, but only tribu-
tary to China; it has its own laws, and is by no
means ruled by the decrees of the Celestial Empire.
It reflected very little honor on a public functionary
to degrade his own country in the eyes of foreigners,
in order to evade giving a direct refusal to their re-
quest. This remark touched him to the heart; he was
ashamed of himself, and would have retracted the
assertion that Corea was a dependant state, had he
not written it upon paper.
The conduct of the mandarins has been most in-
consistent. At first they were anxious that we
should enter the harbor, and deliver every thing into
their charge. And when we designed to leave im-
mediately, they besought us to remain and await the
royal answer. Finally, they told us that they had
not reported us to the king, though they had re-
peatedly assured us that it was done. Our prin -
FORT.
283
cipal regret was at the loss of time, incurred to no
purpose.
August 10. We obliged the principal mandarins
to become sureties for the deliverance of the provi-
sions which they had promised, but never sent. It
happened that some people came along side, whom
they caught, and cudgelled most cruelly.
We ascended the hills of the largest islands near
our anchorage, and inspected a fort built on the peak
of one of them. It consists of a stone wall, and the
interval filled with earth, but without any guns or
martial apparatus. This island is densely inhabited,
and the best cultivated which we have seen. When
the inhabitants saw us, they were much alarmed lest
we should see their fortifications, and great numbers
ran up the hill, and surrounded us on all sides.
When they found that we would enter their villages,
they escorted us strictly, and turned us several times
out of the right way. It seems they have received
orders to do so, for at first they were very friendly,
and rendered us every little service in their power.
August 11. We heard that the people who
brought the provisions had great trouble to procure
them all. However, we were well satisfied with the
stock which they furnished. After a desultory con-
versation, we handed to some of the principal man-
darins a paper, descriptive of their tergiversation, and
of the English character, which did not brook any
disgrace. Such plain language had the desired
effect; they became humble, and began to regret
their assertions of the day before. Woo, the royal
284
COREA.
commissioner, lost all courage; he had committed
himself too much, and could find no excuse for his
faults. We stipulated that whenever an English
ship came hither in distress, they should immediately
furnish her sufficient provisions. To this they rea-
dily agreed, with the single condition that they
should not receive pay for it. If any ship should be
wrecked on their coast, we requested them to send
the unfortunate sailors back by way of Peking, to
which they agreed also.
We went ashore, and stated the conditions on
which we hoped to leave them; but as they seemed
little disposed to hearken, we left them, and visited
a Corean junk in the harbor. They do not carry
above two hundred tons, and seem quite un manage-
able in a tempest. Even the little skill displayed by
the Chinese, in the construction of their vessels, is
wanting here.
Kim made the last attempt to return the letter and
presents; but when he saw that we did not receive
what we had once given, and what had been ac-
cepted, he praised our rule of conduct as most con-
sistent and commendable. He lamented the mean
shift to which Woo had betaken himself, by de-
claring his country dependent on China. He ex-
pressed his regret at our parting, and was almost
moved to tears. Again we requested that any Eng-
lish ship touching there might be treated with civi
lity, and supplied with provisions, to which he agreed
most fully, and solemnly took his leave. Among all
the officers who came on board, none behaved with
PROSPECTS OF FUTURE TRADE.
295
such politeness and dignity as Kim. He had some-
thing commanding in his aspect; he was always
grave, and answered and asked questions generally
to the point. His observations were just, and his
objections usually unanswerable. He expressed his
deep regret that strangers should not be permitted to
have any intercourse with his country, but remarked
that it was not at the option of the mandarins, but
could be authorized only by the king. This was
nothing new to us, who well knew that in every
despotic country the will of the monarch is the law
of the country.
As cattle are abundant, ships touching here can
always be supplied with beef; and to this the man-
darins will make no objection. It is not likely that
any trade of importance could be carried on with
this peninsula. Though there are spacious and
secure harbors, among which, Gan-keang, the place
of our anchorage, holds the first rank, there are per-
haps few productions for exportation, and little money
to pay the surplus of imports. One should not be
too positive, however, in such assertions, for a coun-
try not sufficiently known, may not be sufficiently
valued. We have an instance in the Sandwich
islands, where a flourishing trade is now carried on,
which a few years before was considered a matter
of impossibility. Those parts of Corea which we
have seen, have in themselves great resources; and
we think that the interior is far more cultivated than
the islands of the coast. Doubtless there would be
a demand for British goods; for we saw they inva-
286
COREA.
riably prized the calico and the woollens, cloths en-
tirely unknown among them. Nor, as the natives
would have us believe, do we think that the country
is so entirely destitute of silver, as to be unable to
purchase annually some cargoes of European mer-
chandise. How could the king, otherwise, pay so
large sums in silver to the court of Peking?
Never did foreigners, perhaps, possess so free ac-
cess to the country as we enjoyed. We hope that
the communications which we transmitted, will
suggest to the rulers a different line of policy from
that which they have hitherto followed.
The inhabitants seem to possess sound under-
standing, but with great pride and apathy of feeling.
The majority indulge to excess in spirituous liquors,
but they swallow great quantities without becoming
intoxicated. Unnatural crimes seem to be very
common among them. Our notions of decency
differ very widely from theirs; however, they are not
so entirely lost as not to feel that they do wrong.
In the great plan of the eternal God, there will be
a time of merciful visitation for them. While we
look for this, we ought to be very anxious to hasten
its approach, by diffusing the glorious doctrines of
the cross by all means in our power. The king of
Corea may be said to have a Bible, which he at first
refused to receive; and whether he now reads it, I
am unable to say; but all the official persons about
Gan-keang, and many of the common people, ac-
cepted them. The scripture teaches us to believe,
that God can bless even these feeble beginnings.
ISLAND OF OUELPOERT.
287
Let us hope that better days will soon dawn for
Corea.
August 17. We passed many islands, of every
imaginable shape. The most southern, Ouelpoert,
(lat. 32° 51', long. 126° 23',) is a charming spot. It
is well cultivated, and so conveniently situated, that
if a factory was established there, we might trade
with the greatest ease to Japan, Corea, Mantchou
Tartary, and China. But if this is not done, could
not such an island become a missionary station?
Would it not be giving a fatal blow to those hateful
systems of exclusion, by establishing a mission in
so important a situation? I know not how far the
Corean government exercises control over the island;
but I should think, that a missionary residing here,
would be less subject to dangers than those in New
Zealand, and the first harbingers of the glad tidings
in Labrador and Greenland. One thing is true,
these islands are not inaccessible to Christianity.
288
CHAPTER VII
AUGUST 22. Yesterday, we passed Sulphur island,
from which great quantities of smoke were rising.
This island seems to be entirely volcanic, and desti-
tute of vegetation. We wished much to go ashore;
but the wind blew too hard, and the sea was too
high to permit us to land. After experiencing sud-
den gusts of wind, we arrived, to-day, safely at
Napa-keang, the principal anchorage of Great Loo-
choo. This island has been repeatedly visited by
Europeans, and has engaged the attention of the
ablest writers.
Soon after anchoring, we set out to go ashore, at
the temple of Lin-hae. We saw several Japanese
vessels in the harbor, and observed the junk returned
which we had seen at Fuh-chow.
Some of the mandarins immediately invited us on
shore. They spoke the mandarin dialect fluently,
and showed us every attention, but objected strongly
to our going further than the jetty. We told them,
however, that we could not converse in the midst of
the water, and went up to the temple without taking
notice of their objections. Surrounded by a great
crowd, we squatted upon the ground, drank tea, and
THE LOO-CHOOANS.
289
smoked, whilst we stated whence, and with what
intention. They showed us a cart, left by captain
Stevens, of the Partridge, who had been here in
February. We saw also the commencement of an
English and Loo-choo dictionary, written in their
own and the Chinese character. In their behaviour,
they are friendly and polite, though very inquisitive
about the China men whom we had on board; but
when they saw our wish to walk, they were highly
displeased. Those whom we saw, were small in
size, pleasing but effeminate in appearance. They
did not hesitate to tell us lies, whenever it suited
their purpose; but they were as ready to retract
what they had uttered. A faint recollection of the
English visiters, who had formerly been here, was
all that remained to them of those past transactions.
The names of captains Maxwell and Hall were
almost forgotten, and captain Beechy was only
slightly remembered. We could perceive a certain
distrust, and an extreme reserve, about them, which
seemed to us unaccountable.
August 23. The wind blew hard, and nobody
came on board. In the afternoon, we landed near
the place where the observatory had been erected,
during the stay of the Alceste and Lyra. We were
conducted, by several mandarins, to the temple,
which at that time had been converted into a hospi-
tal, by the humane Loo-chooans. Though not so
picturesque as the description would lead us to sup-
pose, it is indeed a beautiful place. We went to
visit the grave of the sailor, who had been buried
25
290
LOO-CHO0.
there; and, for the information of the natives, trans
lated the inscription into Chinese, for which they
were highly grateful.
Anjah, so often mentioned by captain Beechy,
was introduced to us to-day. He spoke some phrases
in Chinese; but soon recollected a few sentences of
English, which he repeated very formally. He
likewise was very reserved at first; but soon forgot
the restrictions laid upon him, and uttered his feelings
in unrestrained, and often striking remarks. They
were generally so very complimentary, and so ex-
cessive in their professions of friendship, that we
were at a loss how to answer all their polite obser-
vations.
I distributed, to-day, some books among them,
which they received very gladly. I perceived no
reluctance to receive freely what we offered freely;
but could plainly see, that the principal mandarins
by no means wished the people to take them.
August 24. Anjah, with Tche, and an elderly
mandarin, to-day made us a visit on board, the first
which we have yet received. We took an opportu-
nity of examining their language, which seemed
greatly to resemble the Japanese, so far as we could
compare it with Mr. Medhurst's Japanese vocabulary.
The alphabetical writing is nearly of the same form,
and the letters are pronounced in the same way,
with a very few exceptions. It is, therefore, not at
all improbable, that the Loo-chooans were originally
a colony from Japan. Their present vassalage to
the Chinese empire has given to the mandarin dia-
LANGUAGE-JAPANESE JUNK.
291
lect a great ascendancy amongst the officers, who
converse among themselves almost exclusively in
this dialect. Many of them told us that they had
been educated at Peking, and that the mandarin
dialect was also taught in schools on the island.
The majority of the people understand the Chinese
characters, but do not know how to read it in the
mandarin dialect. The same is the case throughout
Japan.
We received the first provisions, consisting of
fruits and other vegetables. The Loo-chooans have
so graceful a manner in making their presents, that
the value is quite enhanced by it.
To-day, we visited the Japanese junk. The
substantial canvas of the sails, the broad structure
of the vessel, the immense rudder, and main-mast,
which is quite disproportionate, the spacious accom-
modations, were all objects of curiosity for strangers.
Most of the sailors were naked: they were very
friendly, and received our Christian books gratefully;
and we should have gained much information from
them, but for the interference of the Loo-choo man-
darins, who were much displeased with the visit,
and endeavored by every means to get us away from
the junk. They painted off the treachery of the
Japanese, and the danger of our lives in becoming
too intimate with them. Yet we protracted our
visit as much as possible, and viewed every part of
the junk.
We found in the Lin-hae temple a great number
of mandarins, anxiously awaiting us, where they
292
LOO-CHO0.
had prepared a very palatable collation. They
showed more good sense in their conversation to-
day than ever we had observed in China.
By their
questions respecting the trade which several Euro-
pean nations carried on at Canton, they discovered
much geographical knowledge. They were able to
converse upon politics with great volubility, and gave
us to understand that they preferred the friendship of
China to that of England, because the former was
nearer to them. We do not doubt that they have
received strict orders from China to keep strangers
aloof, and to treat them with distance and reserve,
yet they were too good-natured to confess it. Though
they frequently alluded to their intercourse with Chi-
na, at Fuh-chow, where Anjah had seen us this
year, yet they disclaimed all intercourse with Japan,
and said that those three junks from Satsuma, which
lay in the harbor, had been driven hither by stress of
weather. Several of their own craft were in the
harbor, all built in the Chinese fashion, with a green
head like the Fuhkeen junks.
They entered afterwards upon religious topics.
When they heard that we did not worship idols, they
said, “we also abhor this worship; those which you
see here are the property of the Budhists, and we do
not batter our heads against them." This has been
the general reply of many mandarins, when I in-
quired upon this subject. They disavow practical
idolatry, because their reason disapproves the theory,
yet they do in fact persevere in their unreasonable
worship.
DISTRIBUTION OF BOOKS.
293
August 25. I had found several patients on board
the Japanese junk; and therefore we set out this
morning to try whether benevolence would open a
free communication with that people. The patients
were wasted by disease, the consequence of vice, and
were very glad to receive a little assistance for which
they expressed the warmest gratitude. The Loo-
choo mandarins watched them more closely than
yesterday, and did not allow them even to offer us a
pipe, without a special permission. We gave to all
the inmates who could read the Chinese character,
Christian books, though the Loo-choo mandarins
strongly objected to their accepting them. It was
painful to see how anxious the Japanese were to con-
ciliate our favor, and how much mortified they were
when they were prevented from showing their good
intentions. Whilst giving those books, I earnestly
prayed that they might reach Japan, to which none
of our missionaries have yet had access. It is the
precious word of God, which in that country also will
be known ere long. I never cherish great hopes from
my individual endeavors, yet I humbly hope that
God, in his mercy, will bless those remote nations
by the gift of his holy Gospel. It is chiefly the work
of faith, but no less, therefore, the work of God.
Wishing to finish our business very soon, we went
ashore to treat with the mandarins, and while wait-
ing for them ascended an eminence to a temple.
These temples are comparatively very small, have a
broad verandah around them, and large windows.
We observed scarcely any idols, these being gene-
25*
294
LOO-CHO0.
rally shut up in a small building in the back ground.
The priests were always despised, yet seemed neither
to want food or clothing. They do not appear
greatly addicted to idolatry, for they are too rational
for this. We could never discover the reason of their
objections to our distributing books among the peo-
ple; but we overcame these scruples by giving them
freely to all the officers as well as to the people, and
after receiving them, they generally came to pay us
their thanks. Whenever we gave any thing else
privately, they would gladly accept it, though they
have taken the books in preference; but every thing
openly offered them, was always declined. For the
least thing which we gave them, they offered some-
thing in return, but their giving and receiving was
all by stealth.
We tried, to-day, to go into the village, and not-
withstanding their extreme anxiety to prevent us,
succeeded. We entered a house, or rather a temple,
around which the tablets of their ancestors were very
neatly arranged. We afterwards scrambled over the
splendid mausoleums, which are built in magnifi-
cent Chinese style. Their reverence for the dead is
very great; they decorate their silent abodes with
whatever may contribute to give them a mournful
appearance. From the food which was placed near
them, we concluded that they were as profuse in
their offerings to the manes of their forefathers, as
the Chinese are. I am anxious to know how they
will regard the treatise on the immortality of the
soul, which I gave them.
LOO-CHOO PHYSICIAN.
295
August 26. The promise which they yesterday
made, of sending us the provisions to-day, they kept
punctually. They were liberal also in their gifts.
We, on our part, had sent to his majesty the king, or
rather the Che-foo of the island, a variety of presents,
and among them, three bibles, which were very well
received. O, that the glorious Gospel may enter the
hearts of these amiable people, and form them for
heaven!
During my stay here I had an opportunity of ren-
dering them some medical assistance, especially in
cutaneous diseases. The consequence was, that a
doctor was sent off to us, to make inquiries respect-
ing the drugs which had been used so effectually to
cure them; and with him I had a very long conver-
sation. He was very desirous to know every parti-
cular of our pharmacology, and his inquiries bespoke
much intelligence and knowledge of the Chinese
pharmacopeia. After having satisfied his curiosity,
and given him the most important directions in
writing, I presented him some drugs. These he re-
fused most pertinaciously, till I sent them into the
boat and told him that I could not receive them
back.
All my patients were very grateful for the assist-
ance bestowed upon them, and to them I distributed
a great many books; which were gladly received,
because it was done in my cabin where only a few
spectators witnessed it.
To-day we received an answer to our request, that
the mandarins should consult whether it was advi-
296
LOO-CHO0.
sable or not, that we should petition his majesty for
permission to trade. They wrote back in answer,
that their country was poor, and unproductive of any
thing which they could give in exchange for our
imports; that besides, they had never traded with
the English, and therefore this would be an innova-
tion contrary to law; and that from the first they
had been averse to having any commercial dealings
with us.
To-day we dined in the Po-tsang temple. The
most savory dishes were placed with much or-
der and taste, upon japanned tables, and presented
to us in regular succession. The liquor with which
they treated us, was very clear, and of excellent fla-
vor. We admired the good order and propriety ex-
hibited in the feast, among a great crowd of specta-
tors. Good manners seem to be natural to the
Loo-chooans.
After dinner we took a long walk among the hills
and groves of this delightful island. We saw seve-
ral women working very hard in the field; and the
peasantry appeared to be poorly clad and in poor con-
dition; yet, they were as polite as the most accom-
plished mandarins. Sweet potatoes occupied the
greater part of the ground, and seem to constitute the
principal food of the inhabitants.
While our friends were rambling, I gave books to
those people who had collected in the yard of the
temple. As they were not under the scrutiny of a
mandarin, they secured to themselves the word of
life with very great eagerness. After making an ad-
DEPARTURE FROM LOO-CHOO.
297
ditional present of a spy-glass and watch, we depart-
ed, to their great joy; for they had been much
annoyed, with our walking and entering villages,
though they themselves laughed at their groundless
fears.
We took an affectionate leave of our kind hosts.
In reviewing our intercourse with them, I think that
their politeness and kindness are very praiseworthy.
They are, however, by no means those simple and
innocent beings, which we might at first suppose
them to be. Upon inquiry we found that they had
among them the same severe punishments as at
Corea; that they possessed arms likewise, but are
averse to use them. The Chinese tael and cash is
current among them, but very scarce; their manu-
factures are few and neat; their houses and clothes
are always kept clean. They are certainly a very
diminutive race; and every thing which they pos-
sess or build, seems proportionably small. While
the Japanese regard them with the utmost contempt,
as an effeminate race, we will freely acknowledge
that they are the most friendly and hospitable peo-
ple, which we have met during all our voyage.
August 30. After three days sailing, we perceived
Botel Tobago, bearing north, in lat. 21° 40'. A
very heavy sea and frequent showers of rain made
this day one of the most gloomy which we have
experienced.
September 5. Entered Kap-sing-moon, after
groping our way in a dark and stormy night. God
has always protected us amidst the greatest and most
298
LOO-CHOO.
imminent dangers, and his name be praised to all
eternity!
Mr. L. and myself went immediately to Macao,
where Dr. Morrison received us very kindly into his
house.
RELIGIONS OF CHINA.
:
THE tie which unites the visible with the invisible
world, which reaches over the distance between man
and God, is religion. It is the most precious gift of
God to men by it, a world of wickedness is pre-
served from that desolation, which would be the
immediate consequence of the absence of all true
religion from the earth. But the name of religion
has been often given to systems of mere falsehood
and delusion; in which the adoration of the Supreme
Being has been neglected for the service of his crea-
tures; and by which man, instead of being "brought
nigh,” has been more estranged from God.
In our view of the religions prevalent in China,
we lament that this last remark is too applicable to
them. It is important, in the first place, to ascertain
how much of the patriarchal religion has been re-
tained. Few records of the belief of the ancient
Chinese remain. We can trace, however, in them,
a primeval adoration of one Supreme Being, under
the name of Shang-te. We believe that Teën, or
Hwang-teen, was adored as the great God and
benefactor of mankind. The sacrifices made to
300
RELIGIONS OF CHINA.
Shang-te seem to have been in imitation of those
which Noah and his progeny offered; yet to deter-
mine precisely how far the true knowledge of God
influenced the Chinese to worship God, as the only
fountain of all light and grace, is at this distance of
time impossible. Though there are some passages
in the Shoo-king and She-king, which allude to the
omniscience and omnipotence of the Supreme Being,
there are others more numerous, which induce us to
believe, that idolatry gained ascendancy at a very
early period. We fully believe, that the sacrifices
which the Chinese sovereigns, in ancient times,
offered to Shang-te, were in imitation of that patri-
archal institution, by which every father of a family
was its priest also; but, at the same time, we regret
that many sacrifices are mentioned, which were by
no means instituted to honor the Supreme Being.
Yet we believe that the records which have come
down to us, were greatly and purposely mutilated
by the transcribers, and even modelled according to
the prevailing customs of later ages. Even the
commentators on the "five Classics," have often ex-
plained away divine truths in them, and substituted
their own errors as the genuine sense of the passages.
Antiquity has always been the model to which the
Chinese classic writers refer. We are therefore led
to think, that some sufficient cause must have in-
duced them to retrace their steps to former ages, and
to admire there those things of which they considered
their own age destitute. The rude simplicity of their
ancestors seemed principally to attract admiration ;
!
RELIGIONS OF CHINA.
301
they contrasted it with the hypocrisy of their own
times, where they found nothing to praise; but the
golden age of ancient days was all perfection.
Though they undoubtedly overrate antiquity, yet.
this is an honorable testimony in favor of the superior
morals which resulted from even the partial main-
tenance of the true religion; a religion, founded on
the revelations which God made to the progenitors
of mankind, and which was spread as far as the
migration of their posterity extended. We can,
however, by no means plead exemption from barba-
rism for Chinese antiquity. Before the times of
Yaou and Shun, (2200 years before Christ,) they
lived in holes and caves, wore garments of skins,
and devoured the raw flesh and the blood of animals.
Their social order was not yet established, their
dead were left unburied, a prey to wild beasts, and
no written character facilitated communication.
Such is the description which the Chinese authors
themselves give. We doubt not that this picture of
wretchedness is too highly colored, in order to set off
the merits of the emperors Yaou and Shun.
From the time of Kang-foo-tsze, (Confucius,) a
new era begins. He reduced the traditions of anti-
quity into a system, added his own opinions, and
became the moral as well as political lawgiver of his
country. His writings abound in quaint sayings,
striking aphorisms, practical observations, and most
useful lessons to promote order and social happiness.
The theory of good government is here exhibited in
all its varieties. He lays particular stress upon filial
26
302
RELIGIONS OF CHINA.
piety, as the source of all political prosperity. We
admire the subordination which he every where in-
culcates. We praise the practical tendency of much
that he recommends. A system like his, could
never have become the prevailing doctrine of so
many ages, to so many millions of his countrymen,
if there had been no excellency in its foundation,
and no adaptation to usefulness. The opinions of
the greatest philosophers of the western world have
been forgotten, or are kept in remembrance only by
a few scholars; but the Confucian system is studied
to this day, by many millions of people, as the only
rule of conduct, and the best theory of good govern-
But is this system therefore perfect?
ment.
In looking through the pages of Lun-yu, a work
which records the principal sayings of Confucius,
we observe a studied silence on the existence of God,
no
on our duty towards him, and on the worship of this
adorable Being. In vain we look for the doctrine
of the immortality of the soul; in vain for a descrip-
tion of the future state; in vain for a system of ethics
which inculcate humility as a virtue most acceptable
in the sight of God. Even the Chung-yung, which
hints at one great truth, man's insufficiency to be-
come truly virtuous, blends the natural heaven with.
the Creator of heaven, and often applies to the former
what belongs exclusively to the latter. The Con-
fucian maxim is: revere the gods of the land; pay
them your respects by offering stated sacrifices; treat
them all with distant politeness; discharge your
duty to mankind in general, and your relations in
RELIGIONS OF CHINA.
303
particular. The mind of Confucius was so much
engrossed with the things of this world, and with
the necessity of establishing human happiness by
human laws, that he entirely lost sight of the most
important duty of man-gratitude towards his Crea-
tor and Preserver. His peculiar care was bestowed
upon form, and the material part of man: he
never pretended to enter the spiritual world, or to
speak of their future destiny-
"Where, amid the wide etherial,
All the invisible world shall crowd;
And the naked soul surround
With realities unknown."
not even the
As soon as he has described the ceremonials of the
funeral, respecting the grave which includes those
corruptible remains, and the idolatrous sacrifices at
the tombs, he then ceases to speak. Beyond the
threshold of mortality all is darkness:
idea of eternity enters his mind.* We do not call
him an atheist, though many of his present followers
are such; for his allusions to a superior power are
often very plain; but his ideas are very confused,
and he constantly confounds materialism with in-
corporeity. The principle of the reciprocate action
of Yin and Yang, light and darkness, heaven and
earth, the male and female principle, occurs constantly.
He thus explains the procreation of all things by the
*His followers, "the Confucian philosophers," according to a
writer in the Chinese Repository, "anticipate no future state of ex-
istence at all.”—Pub,
304
RELIGIONS OF CHINA.
process of nature in its generating system, and rea-
sons away the primary cause, by confounding it
with the effect. We have a perfect pantheism in the
Chinese system, of constituting heaven (Teen,) and
earth (Te,) the gods, by which all things are made
and maintained. To account for an overruling
Providence, which is visible even to a heathen mind,
Confucius formed, or improved the system of the
Yih-king, which represents the manifold changes in
nature, as well as in the affairs of the world, as pro-
duced by the mutual action of all the elements and
principles of the visible world, in strict imitation of
the principles of Yang and Yin.
We do not triumph in this gross aberration of
unaided human understanding, in order to enhance
the value of the true religion; we wish, on the con-
trary, to ascribe all due honor to God for sending a
man like Confucius, and his most celebrated follower,
Meneius, to so large a nation as the Chinese.
Whatever is praiseworthy in his system, comes from
God, the source of all wisdom; and all which is
evil, is the product of man's corrupt heart.
The numerous followers of Confucius could have
known God; yet "they neither glorified him as
God, nor were thankful, but became vain in their
imaginations, and their foolish heart was darkened :
professing themselves wise, they became fools."
Instead of correcting erroneous notions respecting
the Deity, they have even wandered so far as to
deny his existence. It is true, that Tae-keih, an
existence before the creation of the universe, is loaded
RELIGIONS OF CHINA.
305
with creative epithets in one respect, as bringing
forth, uniting, and preserving all the parts. It works
in conjunction with Le, reason, which is deified as
self-existent. But while they maintain these theo-
ries, their minds actually plunge into atheism, or
gross idolatry. They are callous to all which con-
cerns man's supreme happiness, and are real Epicu-
reans in the world. Bent on the enjoyment of this
life, their only sphere of happiness, they disregard
every thing which does not immediately contribute
towards their earthly welfare. But when death
arrives, which cuts off their prospects, they often
throw themselves into the arms of a Budha or Taou
priest, whom they had heretofore treated with the
utmost contempt.
There is, strictly speaking, no religion of state.
The Confucians are latitudinarians; yet there are
certain rites prescribed which must be observed by
all who are in the service of the government. The
emperor himself very solemnly worships heaven and
earth (Teen-te); the provincial governors, the gods
of the land (Shay and Tseih), with all the spirits
presiding over the elements; the queen of heaven
(Teen-how), who, with Lung-wang, rules also over
the sea; the god of war (Kwan-te); and, above all,
Confucius, and the gods of literature. The worship
of their ancestors is observed by the literati, with far
greater strictness than by the common people. Thus
we meet atheism in league with polytheism, and
both in opposition to true religion.
26*
306
RELIGIONS OF CHINA,
It would be unjust to assert that all the manda-
rins and Confucians are equally ignorant or de-
praved. There are surely some who discern some
glimmerings of light; but the major part still go on
in this course of mental perversion. Their fears and
hopes terminate with this life, and the spring of all
their actions is self-interest.
And yet China, as a nation, claims the nearest
affinity to heaven; it is heaven upon earth-" the
Celestial Empire." They have endeavored to mo-
del their government after nature, and the laws of
the visible heavens. Even their military standards
and royal palaces are supposed to have resemblance
to celestial objects. With the son and vicegerent of
heaven at their head, the Chinese claimed, as a reli-
gious right, interference with the governments and
states which disobeyed the decrees of heaven. They
punished them, they extirpated them, as a warning
against all future attempts to subvert heaven's laws.
Even at the present time we have instances where
they confound the laws of heaven with the sordid
intrigues of their own government. It is a most ex-
traordinary fact, that a nation "without God in the
world" should claim what no other nation on earth
presumes to arrogate—to stand in heaven's stead in
these terrestrial regions; yet this is one article of the
Chinese religious-political creed.
Laou-tsze, the founder of the Taou sect, was a
cotemporary of Confucius. His metaphysics are far
more subtle than those of Confucius, their tendency
is less practical, and hence they have fewer votaries,
RELIGIONS OF CHINA.
307
and are understood only by the higher order of Taou
priests. Though they are much less perspicuous
than the Confucians, yet they speak of a future
state; they glance at the existence of a Supreme
Being, and urge the human mind to the practice of
virtue by notions drawn from a future state of exist-
ence. Yet they do not exclude, but inculcate idola-
try. The San-shing, or three precious ones in hea-
ven, has evidently reference to the mystery of the
Trinity, of which tradition has found its way even
to China. The Yuh-hwang, or Shang-te, the su-
preme emperor and most honorable in heaven; Pih-te,
the northern emperor; Hwa-kwang, the god of fire,
and a whole train of lares, penates, and other infe-
rior gods, demonstrate sufficiently, that without the
aid of divine revelation, we never know the only
true God. Their Taou, reason, or the essence of all
reason, and the fountain whence all reason flows,
coincides in many respects with the logos of the
Platonic school.
We do not pretend to exhibit here all the absurdi-
ties which are so amply detailed in the works of this
sect. We consider the Taou sect as the mystics of
the heathen world in China. The birth of their
founder is related as a miraculous event. He lived
a retired life, and clothed his doctrines in subtle, and
often unintelligible language. We find there a sys-
tem of demons and of demoniacal agency; a de-
scription, or rather some hints of the state of a hu-
man being separated from the body; control of the
passions as the most worthy object of our care, and
308
RELIGIONS OF CHINA.
the direct way to felicity. Alchemy employs the re-
searches of their most celebrated priests; animal
magnetism, which has made so much noise in Eu-
rope, is known to those who are farthest advanced in
their doctrines, and is often shamefully abused.
They pretend to possess the liquid which confers im-
mortality; they impose upon the common people,
and always act with a very mysterious air. Lofty
in pretensions, and nice in their speculations, they
hunt after phantoms, and lose themselves in the
abyss of uncertainty.
Budhism, a foreign religion introduced about
seventy years after Christ, is far better adapted to the
common people, and has therefore the most nume-
rous followers. The system of idolatry which this
doctrine enjoins is very gross, but the idols are not
obscene. Consistent Budhists are atheists. While
they tolerate idolatry in every shape, and adopt every
known idol, they reduce the whole universe to a self-
existent machinery, which moves without the inter-
vention of any agent. Every particle of this great
universe is an emanation from the vast vacuum, into
which all visible things will gradually be absorbed.
The souls of men and of beasts continually transmi-
grate till they arrive at the highest pitch of tranquil-
lity, the summit of happiness-to be swallowed up
in nonentity. Budha, with his numerous disciples,
have trodden this path before, and have safely
reached the vacuum, and his true disciples now ought
to imitate them. Their gods are as numerous as
human invention can make them. Above the
RELIGIONS OF CHINA.
309
thrones are the San-paou-fuh, or the three precious
Budhas; the goddess Kwan-yin, who nourishes all
things; the holy mother, or queen of heaven; and
nameless other deities, which deform the monstrous
system. The moral precepts of their religion are
very minute, and some of them are excellent. To
subject passion to reason, and to curb the lusts, ap-
pear to be the object at which they aim. Their
forbearance to take life in any case is carried to ex-
tremes. The way which they mark as the shortest
that leads to happiness is, perfect silence, utter apa-
thy of feeling, and entire cessation from thought and
action. As soon as a man ceases to be man by be-
coming as unfeeling as a stone, he enters the portals
of happiness. Their paradise in a future world is a
splendid garden, with trees of gold, and birds of the
same among the branches, singing in perpetual me-
lodious strains. Sweet odors impregnate the air of
this celestial region; nectar flows in the rivers; and
eternal day excludes the night. But their Tartarus
(hell) is the haunt of unspeakable misery. The
condemned are strangled, sawn asunder, boiled in
caldrons, frozen, and in other way tormented, till
they arrive at a new metempsychosis. Their mo-
nasteries, nuns, and friars, are very numerous; their
priests generally very ignorant; their system de-
spised by every one, but maintained for want of a
better. Budhism is the refuge of all when this
world is receding, and the horrors of death oppress
the guilty soul. Its literature is in verse.
The present dynasty seems to have supported the
310
RELIGIONS OF CHINA.
authority of the Lainas. As the Monguls are much
attached to this creed, which is either Budhism, or
varies very slightly from it, it forms a part of the
Chinese policy to support the influence of the Thi-
betian Grand Lama, whose authority may prove a
check to the wild inhabitants of the steppes (plains)
of Central Asia.
The Chinese national festivals are numerous, and
nothing can exceed the splendor and clamor with
which they are celebrated. Their gods are then
visited, their temples decorated, their future destiny
consulted. The feast of the tombs, and the birth-
days of gods and heroes, constitute numerous occa-
sions of mirth and festivity, which a nation so sen-
sual as the Chinese demand for the gratification of
their appetites. These pastimes begin with offerings
of burning incense, and prostrations to the gods, and
end in revelry, drunkenness, and gambling. Their
gods are treated with the odor of the viands placed
before them, while they themselves consume the
more substantial part.
To venerate the dead, and to keep up an affection-
ate remembrance of the worthy who have gone before
us, is the duty of every mortal. But to offer sacri-
fices to the manes of their ancestors, and to prostrate
before the tablets created to their memory, is a gross
idolatry. This is the universal practice in China;
the law enjoins such idolatry; Confucius taught his
disciples to serve the dead as they would serve the
living; and he who omits this sacred duty, is stigma-
tized as the veriest wretch in existence.
RELIGIONS OF CHINA.
311
So general degradation in religion, makes it al-
most impossible that females should have their pro-
per rank in society. They are the slaves and con-
cubines of their masters; live and die in ignorance,
and every effort to raise themselves above the rank
assigned them, is regarded as impious arrogance.
We should not mention this under the head of reli-
gion, did not Confucius designate to females an infe-
rior station, and use every argument to render them
mere cyphers in society. Taouism and Budhism
join in this endeavor, so destructive to social and hu-
man happiness. As long as the mothers are not the
instructors of their children, and wives are not the
companions of their husbands, the regeneration of
this great empire, will proceed very slowly.
Astrology, divination, geomancy, and necromancy,
prevail every where in China. Though some of
these practices are forbidden by the government, yet
the prohibitions are never carried into effect. The
Chinese wear amulets, have tutelar deities, enchant-
ed grounds, &c., all the offspring of blind supersti-
tion. We lament the deep degradation of human
nature in a nation endowed with sound understand-
ing, and no wise destitute of reflecting minds. We,
at the same time, cannot avoid noticing their general
apathy towards all religious subjects. They are re-
ligious, because custom bids them be so. Forms and
ceremonies, are the whole which occupy their minds,
their hearts scarcely ever participate in any religious
worship. That the doctrines of Confucius have
greatly contributed to form the national character in
312
RELIGIONS OF CHINA.
this respect, is doubtless the fact. With him every
thing is form, and the outward ceremony is worship.
Earthly pursuits fill the whole mind of a Chinese;
to gain money, to obtain honor, to see his name pro-
pagated in his offspring, are the objects for which he
constantly strives. When he has gained his end,
he relaxes in energy, and calınly enjoys his felicity.
He dreads death as the destroyer of all bliss, and fre-
quently builds splendid temples to avert the indigna-
tion of the gods on account of his ill-gotten gain.
There are few exceptions to this general assertion,
that in religious matters, the Chinese are among the
most indifferent people on the earth.
In the writings of the Chinese sages, we may see
a fair specimen of the degree of knowledge in natural
religion, to which the human mind may arrive with-
out the aid of revelation. Philosophers in Europe,
and even missionaries in China, have endeavored to
make them speak the language of a heathen ac-
quainted with Christianity. The ancient writers,
their commentators, and the literati of the present
day, would not even understand the sentiments
which are ascribed to them. The most simple truth
of Christianity, which even a deist acknowledges, is
unintelligible to a Chinese mind, void of any other
ideas except those drawn from their own classics.
We may here exclaim with St. Paul, "Where is the
wise? Where is the scribe? Hath not God made
foolish the wisdom of this world? For in the wis-
dom of God, after the world by wisdom knew not
RELIGIONS OF CHINA.
313
God, it pleased God by the foolishness of preaching
to save them that believe."
In the enumeration of the different religions which
are known in China, we ought to mention the Jews
and Mohammedans. The former are said to have
entered China under the dynasty of Han, two hun-
dred years before Christ. They have diminished in
number, and at present possess only one synagogue,
at Kae-fang-foo, the capital of the province Honan.
The little which we know of them, rests upon the
authority of Gozani, a missionary; we have never
met with any, nor with any allusions to them in the
Chinese books, from which we might infer their
existence.
The Mohammedans are more numerous; in the
western provinces bordering on Mohammedan coun-
tries, there are great numbers. They are distin-
guished from the Chinese heathen only by their
abstinence from certain meats, and by disclaiming
idolatry. In this latter article, however, they are not
so rigid but that they conform occasionally to the
common ceremonies of their countrymen.
27
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA.
CHRISTIANITY, that heavenly gift, has been gra-
ciously bestowed on many nations. The first dis-
ciples were deeply imbued with zeal for the conver-
sion of the world; and so long as the Holy Spirit
actuated them, Christianity was extended. Congre-
gations sprung up among most of the nations known
at that time to the civilized world. But we have no
account that the truth of the Gospel penetrated as
far as China. Afterwards, when the church was
rent by the disputes of cold-hearted orthodoxy, and
the Nestorians were persecuted by the other parties,
many subjects of the Roman empire, who confessed
this creed, fled to Persia, or went from Armenia to
the regions of the "inaccessible Caucasus." From
hence they promulgated their faith among the Tar-
tars of those extensive steppes, which form a barrier
to the Chinese empire. That Christianity should
thus have found its way to China is by no means
incredible; and seems to be probable from some re-
marks of the early traveller, Marco Polo, who fre-
quently mentions the Nestorian heretics, whom he
met as well in Tartary, as in other parts of Asia,
316
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA.
which he visited. Some missionaries from the Sy-
rian churches of Hindostan or India, might also have
entered China. This the Jesuits strive to prove
from a Syriac inscription, found at Se-gnan-foo, in
Shense province. Though we rather doubt the au-
thenticity of much of this inscription, we do not con-
sider it improbable that some Christian missionaries
entered a country, to which teachers of heathenism
were invited from Hindostan. The silence of the
Chinese historians, on so important an event, tends
not at all to discredit the supposition; for on that
ground, we might as well deny, that popery ever
entered China, during a later period, because their
annals scarcely mentioned the fact. The coinci-
dence of many pagan rites with the ceremonies of a
corrupted Christian church, makes us firmly believe,
that Christianity in a most corrupt form, was once
known to a few individuals. It was afterwards
blended with Budhism and Taouism, tincturing
some of the tenets of those systems. That most la-
mentable state, into which many inhabitants of the
Caucasus have fallen, who were formerly Christians,
is an example corroborative of the truth of our con-
jectures. But the efforts of the Nestorians to extend
Christianity could be but feeble; their ignorance.
prevented them from proclaiming the whole Gospel ;
they mistook a mere acceptance of their creed for
living faith; they taught ceremonies instead of pure
and undefiled religion, and the traces of such mis-
sionary efforts must necessarily have been soon
effaced. When the Christian world had to contend
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA.
317
with the almost irresistible torrent of Mohammedan-
ism, nothing could be done for China, except by the
isolated efforts of Nestorians. The empire of the
Monguls was afterwards extended over a great part
of Asia, under the banner of the celebrated Gen-ghis-
khan. China was subjected to the sway of the
grandson of this great warrior, Cublai, or, as the
Chinese call him, Hurih-peih-lee, (1296.) The
Monguls in the west, soon came into contact with
the Europeans, who were threatened with invasion.
Pope Innocent IV. therefore sent them an embassy
(1246) to persuade the Mongul emperor, Kayer-khan,
to become a convert. Visionary as such a scheme
might appear, it was worth the trouble to try to ac-
complish by persuasion what arms could not effect.
Though the message was then rejected with disdain,
yet the western Mongul rulers of their unwieldy
empire soon were forced to request the aid of the
crusaders to repel the impetuous assaults of the Mo-
hammedans, the enemies both of heathens and
Christians. Several embassadors passed between
the grand Khan and Saint Louis, then on a crusade.
This mutual friendly understanding emboldened
Louis to send Rubruquis, a Capuchin friar, to the
grand Khan to attempt his conversion. Though all
these efforts proved abortive, the attention of Europe
towards this distant land, which now began to bear
the name of the empire, of Katay, was constantly
kept alive. The authentic, though marvellous ac-
counts published by Marco Polo, of his travels in this
empire, which were afterwards confirmed by the re-
27*
318
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA.
ports of the royal Armenian traveller, Hayton, greatly
roused the spirit of discovery to explore this wonder-
ful country.
From the moment when the Portuguese found
the way to India, a new era begins. They had
scarcely taken Malacca when they sent several ships
to China (1517), to form a treaty of commerce. Af-
ter many reverses they established themselves at
Macao (1537).
We see now issuing forth from all the Roman
Catholic countries of Europe, a host of missionaries
to convert China. Amidst so great a variety of cha-
racter were men of great talents, fervent zeal, and
exemplary patience, together with many stupid,
bigoted, and worldly-minded laborers. Though all
the orders vied with each other in taking a large
share in missionary labors, none could send so able
agents as that of the Jesuits; for they had the super-
intendence of schools in Europe, they possessed a
deep knowledge of human nature, and always se-
lected proper agents for the work or trust to which
they were deputed. It would be very uncharitable
to condemn them all; the grace of God must have
been stronger in the hearts of some than Jesuitism.
Should we not believe that their cheerful endurance
of sufferings, yea, of death, was founded on better
principles than blind and headstrong adherence to
superstitious tenets? We leave this to the Judge
of the world to decide, whilst we humbly hope that
their unwearied zeal will find many imitators
among Protestant missionaries, who, with simplicity
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA.
319
and truth in their hearts and lips, will show greater
fervor and wisdom in proclaiming the glorious Gos-
pel, than their predecessors did in propagating the
legends of saints, and establishing the ceremonies of
the Romish church.
Francis Xavier, the man who first attempted to
enter China, surely possessed a warm heart, and a
mind patient to endure all sufferings for the cause
which he had espoused. When dying in the sight
of that land for which he had prayed so earnestly,
he left to his followers his zeal and perseverance for
imitation. That he has been canonized and deified
was no fault of his; he was a most extraordinary
man, but only an instrument of the Lord; and his
name had better been buried in oblivion on earth,
while written with glowing letters on the book of
life in heaven.
The Portuguese, always anxious to promote the
tenets of their religion, had established several ec-
clesiastical dignitaries in India, as well as at their
new-founded city, Macao. Alexander Valignan, su-
perior general of the missions of India, who resided
at Macao, expressed his deep regret that so large a
country as China should not be enlightened by Chris-
tianity. Subsequent events show that his zeal,
though misguided, was sincere. The success of his
efforts to surmount forbidding obstacles proves that
ardent zeal, coupled with perseverance, may effect
the most difficult enterprises. What would have
been the glorious result if these men had promoted
the kingdom of Christ, instead of extending the do-
320
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA.
minion of the pope; if they had taught the word of
God, rather than the commandments of men!
Alexander Valignan chose the most able men for
the establishment of the mission in China. M.
Ruggiero and M. Ricci, by stratagem and by the
greatest sacrifices, gained a footing in China, and
the latter persevered to the last. To zeal and pru-
dence well balanced he joined a thorough knowledge
of the religion which he promulgated, and acquaint-
ance with mankind. He was well versed in the
mathematical sciences, and knew how to insinuate
himself into favor. His acquisitions in the Chinese
tongue are truly astonishing, for he wrote with clas-
sical elegance on several subjects, and discussed phi-
losophy and religion. He was abundant in resources,
and seemed at no loss how to put down his inve-
terate enemies, who seem to have been numerous.
Canton province was the first scene of his labors;
thence he removed to Keang-se, and after wards set-
tled at Nanking, whither multitudes of people came
to hear him, and to admire his talents. Presents to
a large amount opened the way for him to Peking.
He had every where made converts, but he labored
no where with so great success as at the capital.
Even several mandarins believed his doctrines, and
the number of converts increased daily. There is
still extant a confession made by candidates for bap-
tism, before they received the ordinance. It is very
probable that Ricci drew it up. We cannot perceive
that lively faith in the Saviour constitutes the mar-
row of these confessions. It is a renunciation of
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA,
321
idolatry, without a reception of the "faith of the Son
of God" as the only preservative against it.
Among his most illustrious converts was Paul
Syu, a minister of the cabinet. This man was con-
stant in his profession, and became an able defender
and supporter of the Roman Catholic creed. Hav-
ing received this religion from conviction, he main-
tained it against all the assaults of its enemies; while
he valued its doctrines, he showed a superstitious re-
gard for its ministers. His youngest daughter, Can-
dida, improved upon the zeal of her father. During
these abundant labors of Ricci, others of his fellow-
laborers had entered into the harvest. For these she
obtained permission to stay; she protected them
against the extortions of the mandarins; she herself
founded thirty handsome churches in different parts
of the province. The province of Keang-nan alone
contained ninety churches, forty-five oratorios, and
three kinds of congregations. The missionaries
translated into Chinese, "Reflections upon the Evan-
gelists;" "Scholastic Summary of St. Thomas;"
"The Commentaries of Borodius;" with sundry
lives of saints; all together, one hundred and thirty
volumes. These she printed at her expense. Alas!
the pure Gospel, without comment, was never pub-
lished. The lives of saints were distributed to the
people, but not the life of the adorable Saviour of
mankind. Not satisfied with common means to
propagate the doctrines of the church, she persuaded
some blind persons, who stood at the public places,
and told fortunes, to preach the tenets of popery, in-
322
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA.
stead of continuing to impose upon the credulity of
the people. She ordered them to be properly in-
structed for this purpose. When they had suffi-
ciently exhorted their auditors, they bade them re-
pair to the missionaries. After having received the
most distinguished marks of imperial favor, and be-
stowed upon the embellishment of altars, and for the
relief of the poor, the ornaments presented her from
the emperor, she died, the most celebrated patroness
which Romanism ever numbered in China.
Agatha, a female of equal rank, and wife of a
mandarin who had been viceroy of four different
provinces, imitated her zeal, and frequently protected
the teachers against the attacks of fanatic heathen.
The missionaries were desirous to introduce all the
superstitions, as well as the excellent institutions of
their church. While they held assemblies, and in-
stituted congregations, in honor of the holy Virgin,
they had also assemblies where the most fervent
Christians meditated upon the sufferings and death
of our Saviour; a meditation worthy of all Christians.
The unconquered zeal, which prompted them to
hazard life, in order to promote religion, cannot be
entirely ascribed to bigotry. Some heavenly flame
must have burned in the hearts of some individuals,
else the fire would soon have become extinct.
Though there is an immense rubbish of "wood,
hay, and stubble," there will surely be found, also,
some "gold, silver, and precious stones."
The rapid progress of the missionaries drew forth
a persecution against them from the priests of Budha
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA.
323
and Taou. Yet, as these have never much influ-
enced government, it had scarcely any serious con-
sequences. Their most dangerous enemies were the
priests of their own religion, of the other different
orders, all hostile to the Jesuits, the only order which
at the commencement had any missions in China.
Their arrogance, cunning, and contempt of all the
other orders, who were indeed very far inferior to
them, procured them many most inveterate enemies.
Even during the life-time of Ricci, their animosities
broke out at Macao; and a friar was mean enough
to accuse them to the government, of a conspiracy
to subvert the Chinese empire. A heavy tempest
now clouded their prospects; but it was averted by
a mandarin, who arrived at Canton, and successfully
refuted this calumny; but not till Martinez, a very
worthy man, had been beaten to death as a traitor.
Shortly after, Ricci died, (1610) lamented both by
Christians and heathen. He had introduced the
lax rule, of permitting Chinese converts to retain
some superstitious rites in honor of Confucius, and
of their ancestors, that they might the more easily
be gained over for a true Chinese will hardly part
with the worship of his fathers. This indulgence
became subsequently the source of innumerable
evils, and ended in the annihilation of very many
missions.
The approaching armies of the Tartars, which
threatened utter subversion of the empire, caused
the emperor, Wan-leih, to recall the missionaries,
whom he had expelled, at the instigation of a man-
324
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA.
darin at Nanking, who had very cruelly persecuted
them. Shortly afterwards, the great Father Schaal
was called to Peking, in the reign of Tsung-ching,
(1628.) He was a man equal in perseverance and
zeal to Ricci, and superior in scientific acquirements.
Towards the close of the Ming dynasty, robbers laid
the country waste, and the Tartars were invited to
assist the Chinese in expelling them. They readily
agreed to free the Chinese from these lawless bands,
but at the same time they conquered those to whose
aid they had come. The adherents of the Ming
dynasty established themselves in the southern pro-
vinces, and chose an emperor from the imperial
family. The mother, son, and wife of this emperor,
Yung-leih, were Christians, and many ladies of the
court followed this religion. They even wrote a
letter to Pope Alexander VII., in which they showed
their submission to the church, and their gratitude
for being numbered with the holy flock. Though
their influence very soon ceased, for their state was
conquered by the Tartars, yet the reigning Tartar
emperor, Shun-che, showed great respect towards
Adam Schaal, who rendered himself highly useful
as a mathematician.
To him it was owing that a numerous host of
missionaries were invited, who spread themselves
into all the provinces. Among them, was Father
Verbiest, a man who subsequently gained so great
renown. At the death of Shun-che, a persecution
shook the Christian churches in all the provinces:
even Schaal was imprisoned, and sentenced to death.
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA,
325
However, he triumphed over his enemies, gained
the favor of the new emperor, Kang-he, to whom he
had been appointed instructor, and died esteemed by
all parties. Verbiest trod in his steps, ingratiated
himself at court, and accommodated himself still
more to the usages of the Chinese. The persecutions
had ceased, and a number of French Jesuits entered
China, among whom were Gerbillon, Tachard,
Bouvet, and Le Compte. When the emperor heard
of their landing at Ning-po, he sent for them, and
made several of them the constant companions of
his joys and his troubles. These men filled up the
place vacated by the death of Verbiest, (1688,) on
whom hereditary nobility had been conferred, for his
services rendered the emperor. But their enemies
also never slept. Scarcely had the conflict ceased
between the Pope and the king of Portugal, respect-
ing the investiture of bishops, when the viceroy of
Chi-keang province raised against them a fiercer
persecution than any which they had previously
suffered. He insisted upon enforcing all the old
edicts against Christianity. So-san, a powerful
minister of state, vigorously expostulated against it.
At first, he received no answer; and the viceroy
grew more furious in his persecutions; pulled down
the churches; imprisoned the members, and seized
on the preachers. After long petitioning, the mis-
sionaries succeeded in obtaining a favorable edict
from the emperor, who, notwithstanding the mur-
murs of the tribunal of rites, showed himself their
protector and friend. From this moment, Roman
28
326
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA.
Catholicism began to triumph. The Jesuits built a
splendid church within the palace, which drew upon
them the denunciation of the imperial censors; but
they were not dismayed, so long as they possessed
the imperial patronage. Unhappily for the progress
of their doctrines, another dispute broke out, between
the Jesuits and Dominicans, which threatened the
entire extirpation of Christianity. The old questions
were revived, whether the worship at the tombs, and
the honors bestowed on Confucius, and the adoration
of Teen, were not real idolatry? An unbiassed
mind would have answered, yes; and would have
added, that the denomination Teen, heaven, was
understood as the material heaven; for most of the
Chinese have no idea of an invisible world. Yet
the Jesuits found, that if they acted on these rigorous
rules, they would lose all which they had gained
with so immense trouble, and therefore connived at
these superstitious rites in their converts. Even the
holy father, and his legate Tournon, who had come
to China expressly to settle these disputes, could not
succeed. The Jesuits maintained their ground,
while their opponents contested every inch with them.
Finally, Mezzabarba arrived in China, (1720,) and
issued the strictest orders to discontinue all supersti-
tious worship and rites; but as no one wished to
yield, the matter was never adjusted. The death
of Kang-he put a stop to all these contentions: the
most flourishing congregations were very soon scat-
tered; for Yung-ching, who succeeded to the throne
in 1722, was the declared enemy of Christianity,
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA.
327
and persecuted it systematically. Upon an accusa-
tion brought before the viceroy of Fuhkeen province,
the missionaries were banished from the country,
and their churches were condemned to be demolished.
In vain they struggled to protect their numerous con-
gregations, which had spread through all the provinces:
their intrigues, their prayers, and all their endeavors
proved ineffectual. From other persecutions, the
churches had recovered; but this was a death-blow.
The missionaries continued to enter the country
secretly, and to promote their religion by means of
native teachers. Yet the congregations were always
decreasing; and when the order of the Jesuits was
abolished, there were no men of great talent, who
could maintain the respectability of a teacher at
court. Though some missionaries always resided
at court, as mathematicians and artisans, yet they
were too closely watched, to make any progress in
the work of teaching religion.
Keen-lung, who ascended the throne in 1736,
was far better inclined towards Europeans; yet,
reiterated persecutions disturbed the peace of the
Christians, and rendered the inost ardent endeavors
of the missionaries abortive. Notwithstanding the
many marks of private regard which Keen-lung
showed them, they remained, as a sect, exposed to
the caprice of the local mandarins, who often perse-
cuted them with great fury. After the coronation
of Kea-king, (1795,) the successor of Keen-lung, the
missionaries had far more to suffer; for he hated
Christianity more bitterly than any of his predecessors
328
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA.
had done. The sufferings of many were most in-
tolerable. Many congregations were again paganized
for want of teachers; others were dispersed, and only
a few could maintain themselves. An imprudent
act of making maps of the empire, from which to
decide their contentions respecting the sphere of their
operations, roused the cruel monarch to the highest
pitch of jealousy. He punished the author, and en-
deavored by every means to repress the efforts of the
missionaries. Since the accession of the present
emperor, Taou-kwang, (1821,) nothing serious has
befallen the Christians. They have been tolerated,
but not encouraged. The number of missionaries
now sent from Europe, is comparatively small.
The French send the largest number; the Roman
Propaganda" next; the Spanish recruit their mis-
sions in Fuhkeen province from Manilla. The
Portuguese were permitted to maintain a mission at
Peking, while the French claim Se-chuen as their
sphere. Till this day, the Italians, Spanish, Portu-
guese, and French, keep up expensive establishments
at Macao, in order to maintain their missions in the
interior. Taou-kwang has never denounced Chris-
tianity; he has rather connived at it silently; but
has never showed any predilection for it, or wish to
know its doctrines.
66
Protestant nations for more than a century had
reaped the benefits of trade with China, before at-
tempting to bless her in return by introducing the
Gospel. This heavy debt which pressed upon them,
was either unthought of, or they imagined it useless
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA.
329
to attempt any thing while the country was shut
against foreigners. The example of the Catholic
missionaries, showed facts in opposition to such opin-
ions. If they could penetrate China, if by perse-
verance they had gained access to all the provinces,
why should Protestants despair, without one trial, of
an enterprise like this?
As soon as the God of all grace had moved the
minds of his people, in Great Britain, to send abroad
the heralds of salvation, China was also remembered.
But it was so late as 1807, when the London mis-
sionary society sent the first messenger of peace to
this benighted country. They found in Dr. Morri-
son, a man eminently fitted for the great work. He
had an ardent desire to serve his Saviour, and perse-
verance to continue the labors which his zeal for the
salvation of souls had projected. Under the guidance
and help of his Lord, who graciously protected him
from numerous enemies, he studied, without being
discouraged, the Chinese language, which offers great
difficulties to the student, and has translated the
holy scriptures, a work which the Roman Catholic
missionaries, during their labors for more than two
hundred years in China, had never executed. His
appointment of translator to the British factory in
China, secured to him a place not so much exposed
to the malice of his enemies. He completed also a
dictionary under the patronage of the East India
company, the directors of which defrayed the expen-
ses of publication. This work will always remain a
standard work, and has already been one of the most
330
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA.
effectual means of paving the way for others to ac-
quire the language.
In the year 1813, a second laborer arrived. Dr.
Milne, a man of great piety and talent, reached
Macao, from which he was driven away by order of
the Portuguese government. He subsequently visit-
ed Java and Malacca, at which latter place, it was
finally resolved to fix a station. This has been emi-
nently blessed by becoming the depository of numer-
ous tracts and bibles, which have been distributed all
over the Indian Archipelago, and in some parts of
China. A college has also been established here, by
the munificence of Dr. Morrison and other persons
who took an interest in the welfare of China. The
object of this institution was to teach the English
language to Chinese, and the Chinese to European
and other students, and that both may be benefited
by religious and scientific knowledge. It has great-
ly aided the cause of Christianity, and has assisted
many Europeans to acquire the Chinese language,
while it has also constantly instructed some Chinese
lads both in their own and the English language.
Numerous schools were established; new laborers arri-
ved; and though Dr. Milne sunk into the grave,
after the most judicious and persevering exertions
for the diffusion of Christianity, others carried on the
work undismayed. Collie, at Malacca, as a scholar,
and Medhurst at Java, as a scholar and laborer, will
always rank high as Christian missionaries. Other
stations were established at Rhio, Batavia, Singapore
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA.
331
and Penang; finally, a mission to Siam was under-
taken and will be maintained.*
At the present time it appears probable that our
great Lord and king will shortly open the door to
China. Though many true Christians may con-
sider that this is not soon to be expected, we are of
a different opinion-although conversant with the
almost insurmountable obstacles which oppose, we
humbly trust that an Almighty hand will remove
them.
The authority of our Saviour, who is exalted
above all principalities and powers, and has received
all power in heaven and earth, whilst be has given
his promise that the earth shall be filled with his
knowledge, warrants to us the happy issue of every
endeavor made in his name to promote his eternal
glory. We would earnestly beseech Christians at
home, to send out new laborers filled with the Holy
* The American churches have also taken up the cause of China.
Messrs. Bridgman and Abeel were their first missionaries. Mr.
Stevens has also arrived at Canton, intending to preach to the Euro-
pean and American seamen at that port, and also to prepare himself
for missionary labor among the Chinese. Messrs. Tracy and Wil-
liams have just sailed from America on the same benevolent enter-
prise. Mr. Bridgman has a lithographic press, which he is using in
printing scripture-sheet, and other tracts. He has also contemplated
publishing an edition of the Chinese bible, at the expense of American
Christians. The labors of these zealous missionaries have been re-
cently encouraged by a grant of $3000 from the American Bible
Society, and of $2000 from the American Tract Society. And several
private individuals, in America, have cheerfully pledged themselves
to Mr. Gutzlaff to supply his whole demands of medicines and books,
to be distributed by himself for the temporal and spiritual welfare
of the Chinese.—Pub.
332
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA.
Spirit, imbued with humility, willing to suffer and
to die for the great cause. There is nothing impos-
sible with God. A soul fully penetrated with his
eternal love, and living in constant communion with
him, knows the extent of the divine promises, which
never mention impossibilities. O, we wish to see
such laborers in the vineyard. If the Romish mis-
sionaries could brave the dangers of penetrating into
the heart of China, under the auspices of some tute-
lar saint, how much more may we, by trusting the
living God who created heaven and earth and all the
powers therein! It is our earnest wish, our constant
prayer, our feeble endeavor, to convince our fellow
Christians, that China is not inaccessible to the
operations of missionaries.
THE UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
GRADUATE LIBRARY
JAN 1 0 1975
DATE DUE

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