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J
JOURNEYS IN NORTH CHINA,
MANCHURIA, AND EASTERN MONGOLIA :
WITH S () ME ACC0 UNT OF COREA
BY THE
REv. ALEXANDER WILLIAMSON, B.A.,
A GENT OF THE NATIONAL BIBLE SOCIETY OF SCOTLANL).
WITH II,I,USTRATIONS AND TWO MAPS
I N T W O V O L UM E S.
WOL. I.
L O N DO N :
SMITH, ELDER & CO., 15, WATERLOO PLACE.
1870.
[THE RIGHT OF TRANSI, ATION IS RF server,
T) S
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P R E FA C E .
–eº-
My object in undertaking the journeys narrated in these
volumes, was the distribution of the Scriptures and
books and tracts in the Chinese language throughout
the interior of North China. Travelling over districts
near and remote from the Ports, I met with much that
was interesting in the natural features of the country,
in the character and aspect of the people, and not
a little which was both new and important in reference
to the products of the soil and the mineral resources of
the different provinces. It appeared incumbent on me
to make these things known, and therefore I hope this
book will be looked upon, not as the offspring of any
ambition for authorship, but as the result of a sense
of duty. -
Reeping to my purpose of setting forth facts, I have
abstained, as much as possible, from controversy. One
thing, however, has come up which demands some
attention. In papers recently laid before Parliament
(April 6th), “the inland residence ’’ of foreigners has
been denounced ; the restriction of missionaries to the
WOL. I. b
vi PREFACE.
ports has been advocated; and even the adaptation of
Christianity to accomplish its great purpose has been
questioned. This book will throw some light upon
these matters, for there is nothing kept back, and
nothing coloured. It will be seen that there is no
hostility on the part of the people of North China
towards Protestant missionaries; and, moreover, that
our passports were invariably acknowledged, and aid
given, when required, even in the most distant places.
The presumption, therefore, is, that were the matter
of inland residence likewise made a provision in Treaty
engagements, there would be little or no difficulty in
peaceably carrying it out.
I know that the Roman Catholics are very much
disliked: in some places on account of the outrages
committed by French soldiers during the last war; in
other places in consequence of the assumption of the
priests; and also owing to the violent way in which
they have insisted upon the restoration of property
confiscated at the close of the last century, and the
injudicious manner in which they have sometimes built
upon the ground re-occupied by them. All these causes
operate in Peking. But no charges of this kind can
be brought against Protestant missionaries, as is proved
by the repeated admissions of the Chinese Foreign Office
itself.
PREFACE. vii
It seems ungenerous to say aught against our gallant
allies, and religionists, who aim at the same end as our-
selves; but there are times when the whole truth must
be told, and this appears to be one of them, seeing that
charges which are valid only against Romanists, are—in
the Blue Book just referred to—made the basis of an
argument against the extension of privileges to Pro-
testants.
It is true that the Mandarins have been much less
civil to foreigners during the past year; that one pre-
meditated and unprovoked attack near Tien-tsin, result-
ing in the murder of a foreigner, has been permitted;
that two or three serious acts of persecution have been
perpetrated; and that alarming rumours, pointing to
the expulsion of foreigners from Peking and other
places, have been spread far and wide ; but these things
have occurred in consequence of the ultra-liberal policy
of our Government, and especially of that outburst of
hostile criticism in the spring of 1869, on the part of
our officials and leading politicians and writers at home
—all of which was duly communicated to the Chinese
authorities, leading them to believe either that we were
shorn of our strength, or had lost all interest in our
countrymen in China. .
I trust no deeds of violence will ensue; but if they
do, I hope the opportunity will be taken to set matters
viii PREFACE.
right once for all. In these volumes I have hinted at
one or two things which appear indispensable to satis-
factory intercourse; and among them, inland residence
under proper sanctions. The truth is, China can never
be truly or permanently opened up without inland resi-
dence among the people ; and as Protestant missionaries
are centres of light and truth and beneficence, better
adapted for salutary pioneer work than any other class,
acceptable to the natives, and never guilty of political
intrigue, it is clearly the interest of all concerned that
provision be made for their legal establishment and
unfettered action. I am the more disposed to advocate
this, inasmuch as the experiment has been tried with
success. Protestant missionaries, British, German, and
American, have been labouring unmolested for some
years in many of their inland cities. The disturbances
at Yang-chow and Ngan-king were exceptional, in so far
as they were formented before the citizens had time to
understand the character and motives of the mis-
sionaries. My argument therefore is, that Protestant
missionaries who have proved so useful, although under
adverse circumstances, should not be denied rights and
privileges which are granted to Roman Catholics and
even Mohammedans. -
The Chinese opponents of missions, as of everything
foreign, are not the people, but that class of Chinamen
PREFACE. ix
described in Vol. I. p. 5. But a clause in a Treaty would
go a great way to restrain even them ; or, if they broke
out, a clear and decided expression of our feelings—as
experience has repeatedly shown—would effectually pre-
vent a repetition of it.
On the general question I make no remark further
than that the history of the Chinese demonstrates that
it is not only impolitic, but dangerous, to grant them
all the privileges of civilized nations, and allow them
to ignore all the responsibilities recognized by other
powers.
This book being intended for general readers, I have
reserved for another place remarks upon the religious
aspects of the Chinese and the progress of Christianity
among the people ; and being desirous to make it as
complete as possible, I asked my friend Mr. Edkins to
prepare an account of Peking, which will be found in
Vol. II., and I doubt not my readers will thank me
for placing before them so interesting a contribution.
I have also added Mr. Oxenham's valuable narrative
of his journey from Peking to Hankow, so that the
public have now observations of North China in all
directions.
The results of my observations of the Chinese
character and government, and the information as to
the physical geography of the country and other matters
X PREFACE.
of a general character, precede the narrative of my jour-
neys, as it is hoped the reader will thus be prepared to
account for the habits of this extraordinary people, and
the present state of the country.
I have to thank my friend, Rev. Jonathan Lees,
of Tien-tsin, for letterpress in Vol. I., from p. 250 to
341, and also to express my obligations to John Kesson,
IEsq., for the aid he has afforded me in preparing the
sheets for publication, and in carrying the work through
the press.
The engravings of the view of Peking and the
Temple of Heaven are from photographs in the pos-
session of W. A. Cornabé, Esq., and those of the Tomb
of Confucius and the Avenue leading to it are from
photographs taken by Mr. Baker, in the possession of
Dr. Carmichael of Che-foo. I am also indebted to
Mr. Lees, of Tien-tsin, for the sketches of the Cave-
Houses, the Chen-wu, the Nestorian Tablet, the Iron
God, and the Bronze Idol.
ALEXANDER WILLIAMSON.
LoCHWINNOCH, near GLASGOW,
June 13, 1870.
CONTENTS OF WOL. I.
CHAPTER I.
INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONs BEARING ON THE PRESENT
AND FUTURE OF CHINA.
tº & PAGE
Extent of China—Varieties of Soil and Climate—Mineral Resources
—Water Communication—Mental Capacity of the People—
Written Language—Education—Untouched Resources—De-
plorable Condition of the Chinese—Memorial to the Emperor
—Intrigues of Candidates for Office—Lying and Deceit Uni-
versal—No Hope for China in Herself—Mr. Hart's Opinion..... l
CHAPTER II.
BARRIERS IN THE WAY of PROGRESS IN CHINA.
Pretensions of the Emperor—His Titles—Duration of his Assumed
Greatness—Conduct of the Government towards Prince Alfred
—Lord Elgin's Policy—Conceit and Ignorance of the People
—Their Estimate of Foreigners—Chinese Maps—Mr. Hart's
Testimony—Worship of Ancestors a Form of Idolatry—Evils
resulting fromit—Chinese Emigrants—Horrible State of Society
in Manchuria and Mongolia—The Fung-shui Superstition—
Solutions of the Difficulty—The Opium Traffic—Universal
Untruthfulness and Deceit—What the Chinese need to Reform
them 9
CHAPTER III.
MORAL FORCES IN CHINA.
Influence of Foreign Commerce—Effects of Competition—The
Foreign Customs’ Service—Salutary Influence of the Consular
Services—The Diplomatic Services—What have they done 2–
The Anglo-Chinese College—Chinese Newspapers—Roman
Catholic Missions—Date of their Establishment–Native
xii CONTENTS.
PAGE
Christians—Benefit and Deficiencies of the Catholic Missions—
Their Industrial Schools—Romish and Protestant Missionaries
—Protestant Missions—What they have done—Their Books,
Periodicals, and Schools—Scientific Treatises for the Chinese
by Missionaries—Results of Missionary Labour—Missionary
Establishments Centres of Civilisation—The Duke of Argyle's
Opinion — Foreign Intercourse with China — Lord Elgin's
Treaty—Firmness essential in dealing with the Chinese .......... 20
CHARTER IV.
RECEPTIVITY OF THE CHINESE.
Improvements adopted from other Nations in Past Times—Transla-
tions of European Books republished by Chinese Officials—
Modern Inventions and Improvements adopted for the Defence
of the Country—Influence of the Roman Catholic Missions—
Hospitals, Schools, and Colleges—Spread of Vaccination—
Openness to Conviction on Religious Matters—Cause of their
Stationariness—Chinese Capitalists—Prognostic of the Future
of China............... ...........…... 33
CHAPTER V.
THE COUNTRY AND ITS Gover NMENT.
Physical Geography of North China—Geology—Coal-Fields—Iron
Ore—Topography—The “Foo,” “Chow,” and “Hien "Cities
—The Government—Magistrates and Governors of Provinces
—The Emperor—His Power and Titles—Rights of Rebellion
—The Censorate—Railways and Telegraphs involved in the
Chinese Theory of Government—Present Government—List
of its Members ... .................................... . . . . . . . . . 40
CHAPTER VI.
CIVILIZATION AND MEANS OF INTERCOMMUNICATION.
State of Education—Population—Monetary System—Weights
and Measures—Water Communication in North China—Water
Communication with the Sea viá Hai-chow—The Old Yellow
River—A River Vagary—River and Road Communications—
Han River—Imperial Highways—Cart-roads—Bridle-paths—
Proposed Railways—Treaty Ports—Revision of the Treaty—
Frauds of the Mandarins—Advantages of Railways .................... 55
P
Area and Population—Surface—Mountain Ranges—Lakes—Sea-
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER VII.
PROVINCE OF SHAN-TUNG.
ports — Che-foo — Wei-hai-wei — Shih-tau – Kin-kia-kow—
Climate—Soil—Trees—Shrubs—Zoology—Cities—Industries
—Cereals, Produce, &c.—Vegetables — Fruits — Mines and
Mining — Coal — Iron — Gold — Galena — Copper— Precious
Stones—Marble, &c.—Sulphur—Glass—Cotton, Woollen, and
Silk Manufactures—Other Industries—Festivals and Customs
CHAPTER VIII.
PROVINCE OF CHIH-L1.
Boundaries—Surface — Area and Population —Climate—Seasons
—Geology — Minerals and Mining—Coal Districts—Iron—
Silver—Hot Springs–Lakes and Rivers—Industrial Pursuits
CHAPTER IX.
THE PROVINCE OF SHAN-SI.
Boundaries—Surface—Rivers–Lakes—Hot Springs—Abundance
Coal
of Coal—Fine Iron Ore—Silver—Copper–Tin—Sulphur—
Marble—Earth and Clays—Precious Stones—Cities—Cave-
Houses—Superstitions—Officials only inimical to Foreigners
—Character of the People—Exactions of Mandarins—Staples
—Cotton—Wool, &c
CHAPTER X.
PROVINCES OF SHIEN-SI, KAN-SU, AND HONAN.
Iron—Gold—Silver
Copper—Quicksilver—Tin, &c. ..........
CHAPTER XI.
THE TERRACE DEPosits IN NORTH CHINA.
Calcareous Loam—Where Found—-Theory of Pumpelly as to its
Formation—Similar Deposits found in other Places—Houses
Excavated in the Sides of Cuttings.--Striking Features of the
Terraced Hills—Magnificent Scenery—Village cut out of a
Sand-hill–Bright Colours of the Strata—Extent of the Terrace
Deposits and Cuttings — The Author's Theory — Ancient
xiii
A.G. E.
84
138
170
xiv. CONTENTS.
P.A.G. E.
Chinese Tradition of the First Great Flood—Its date corre-
sponds to that of the Noachian Deluge—Early Physical Con-
dition of North China . . ............................ . ....... . ..............…. 173
CIHAPTER XII.
Jours DY Roux D THE SHAN-TUNG PROMONTORY.
Lost in the Dark—Tombs of another Race—Wei-hai-wei—Kiau-
teu and its Inhabitants–Boulders and Granite—Fireworks
and Jewels—Use of English a bad Sign—Shih-tau and its
Warehouses—Rau-tswun—Regal Honours and Inconveniences
—Sulphur Baths of Loong-chuen-tang—Ning-hai . . ........ 186
CHIAPTER XIII.
FROM PERING TO CHIL-Foo vić GRAND CANAL, AND THD
COUNTRY OL CONTUCIUS AND MENCIUS.
Departure from Peking–Bad Roads—Port of Peking—Canal
Voyage and Scenery — Magpies and Tombs – Irrigation—
Attention of People to Preaching — Purchase of Bibles—
Wheelbarrows with Sails – Yellow River — Travelling by
Wheelbarrow—Uncomfortable Beds–Misery caused by Rebels
—City and Tomb of Mencius—City and Tomb of Confucius—
Character and Influence of Confucius — Failure of Con-
fucianism—Duke of Chow—Tomb of Shaou-haou-Priesthood
and Laity—Travelling by Night—Tze-loo–Chinese Inns—
Vicissitudes of Travel–Prosperous Close . .......... . . . 193
CIIAPTER XIV.
JOURNEY THROUGH THE PROVINCEs or CHIII-L1, SHAN-SI, AND A
PORTION OF SHEN-SI AND HONAN.
PART I.—CHIH-LI.
Pleasant Anticipations—Gulf of Pe-chih-li–Aspect of the Country
—Strange Mode of Fishing–Travelling-Carts—Burial-places
—City of Lu-ku-chiau–Curious Bridge—Chinese Inns—
Metalliferous lºange of Hills—Chang-ching-tien–City of Tso-
chow—Pagodas—Marble Bridge and Pailows—A, Beneficent
Viceroy—Open Immorality—Reception of the Gospel—State
of the Great Highway—Ngan-hsu–Condemned Criminals—A
CONTENTS. XV
PAGE
Party of Officials in State—Reception of the Scriptures—
Pau-ting-foo—Mohammedan Mosque—Large Temples with
numerous Idols — Temple of the Emperor Yaou and his
Mother—Ting-chow—A Pig-Fair—Ignorance of the Country-
People—Ching-ting-foo—Colossal Buddhist Idols of Bronze—
Buddhist Priests—Selling Books—Romanist Mission.................... 246
CHAPTER XV.
JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-L1, SHAN-S1, &c.—continued.
PART II.-CHIH-LI AND SHAN-SI.
Significant Names of Chinese Cities—Why-lu-hien—Gateways of
Mountain Villages—A Widow’s Benevolence—Varied Scenery
—The “Heavenly Gates”— Levying Black Mail—River
Ching-shing—Water-wheels for Grinding Corn—A Cruel Inn-
keeper–Coarse Crockery—Limekilns—A Deserted City—
Manufacture of Manure—Wild-Flowers—Imperial Couriers—
Steep and Rugged Roads—Chinese Cannon—The Great Wall
—Insolence of our Carters—West Heavenly Gate—Moonlight
Journey—Ping-ding-chow—Style of the Houses—Lodging in
a Temple—Preaching to the Chinese—Holiday Costumes—
Moon-worship—Coal-pits and Iron-works 278
CHAPTER XVI.
Journ EY THROUGH CHIH-L1, SHAN-SI, &c.—continued.
PART III.-SEIAN-SI.
Ascent of the “South Heavenly Gate”—Chinese Funeral Rites—
Signs of Mineral Wealth—Native Soldiers—Chinese at an
Eclipse of the Moon — Cave-Houses — Boundary-stones—
Dangerous Road—Precipices and Ruts—Pass of Ku-kwan—
Plain of Tai-yuen — A Sacred Tree—A Noisy Bed-room—
Training an Archer—Mission-work—Temple and Idols of the
City God—Views of Foreign Buildings—Roman Catholic
Mission—Imperial Palace—Visit to a Cannon-Foundry—Tai-
yuen-foo—An Imitation of Peking—Mohammedans—Obstruc-
tions and Exactions—Presentation of a Tablet of Honour—
Lofty Tower-houses—Military Posts and Beacons—Temples
to the God of Literature—An Inquisitive Mob-Hieu-kow—
Curiosity of the Women—Swampy Roads—Chi-hien-A Fight
—Conversation with Native Romanists 297
xvi. CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XVII.
JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-L1, SHAN-SI, &c.—continued.
PART IV.-SHAN-SI.
PAGE
Friendly Reception at Ping-yau-hien—A degraded “fool” City—
Tombs in Chang-lang-chow—Group of Monuments—Candle-
stick Pillar—Geomancy—Plain of Tai-yuen—Water-courses
Intersecting the Roads—Walled Villages—Pailows — Chie-
hsiu-Well-dressed and Refined People—A Magistrate listen-
ing to our Preaching—Pass of Han-hsin-ling—Coal-mining
Villages–Fire-damp unknown—Mass of Iron-stone worshipped
—Cave-dwellings—Ascent of the Pass—Magnificent Scenery—
Variegated Strata—Divining-Sticks—Providential Escape—
A Cow-god—Plain of Ping-yang—Traditional Burial-place of
Yaou–Chinese Claims to Antiquity—Ping-yang-foo—An
impatient Congregation — Ruined Temple — Iron Idols—
Colossal Head of Buddha—Paper-making—Great Memorial
Temple—Kau-hien—Wun-shi-hien—A City of Opium-smokers
—Salt Lake—Magnificent Temple—Suspicious Intruders—
Temple of Kwan-ti—A Great Dignitary—Pu-chow-foo—Ferry-
boats—Toong-kwan—An over-curious Crowd................................... 3.18
CHAPTER XVIII.
JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-L1, SHAN-SI, &c.—continued.
PART W.-SHAN-SI AND HON AN.
A formidable Fortress—Interview with a Mandarin—The Sacred
Hill Hwa-Shan—Magnificent Temple in Ruins—Tradition
respecting it—Charming Scenery—The Mirage—The Moham-
medan Rebellion—Story of its Origin—Desolate City—Devas-
tated Towns and Villages—Desecrated Temples—A Company
of Prisoners—The Lake of Grass—A Slough of Despond—
City of Si-ngan-foo–Amenities of the Guard-house—Spacious
Lodgings—Preaching to successive Crowds—Roman Catholic
Establishment—Curious Stone — Ancient Mosque— Quaint
Tradition—Mohammedan Compliancy—A Preaching Tour—
View of the City—Self-righteous Community—“Forest of
Tablets”—The Nestorian Tablet—Conversation with the
Catholic Bishop—Dust-storm—Dangerous Pass—Fear of the
CONTENTS. xvii
CHAPTER XIX.
JOURNEY THROUGH THE SouTHERN AND CENTRAL PORTIONS
of SHAN-TUNG.
PAGE
Signs of Progress—Gold-dust Markets—Gold-washing—A Fair—
Gamblers’ Feats—Magnetic Ore—Self-sufficiency of the Citi-
zens of Whang-hien— Inn at Dzu-kiau–Soap-stone Mines—
Marble Quarry—Good Work at Kau-wang-shan—Gold and
Precious Stones—Hostile People—A Fracas—Lay of the
Land—Dnfriendly Reception — Pleasant Country — The
Mirage—Dining al fresco—Attentive Hearers—Prosperous
Villages—Graveyards—Recovery of Baggage—Saltpetre and
Theft — Mandarins in League with Thieves— Extensive
Table-lands—Vast Cavern—Hill of the Seven Precious Things
—Character of the Country—Water Buffaloes—A Thief self-
detected—Sulphurous Springs—Evil Aspect of the People—
Unsexed Women—The Yi-ho River—Neglected Roads—
Boulders—Troublesome Muleteer—Manufacture of Paper—
Mulberry-orchards — Pilgrims to Tai-ngan-foo — The Tai
Temple—Oldest Historical Hill in the World—Beggars—
Chinese Effrontery—Ruined Villages—The Capital of Shan-
tung — Conversation with a Mandarin—Flooded Road—
Minerals—Glass Works—Lime-burning — Tombs of two
Famous Men—The old Capital—Mohammedans and Romanists
—Fairs—Sell our Books—Home ..... 408
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
WOLUME I.
PAGE
THE MID-DAY HALT (To face Title).
TREE-WORSHIP 162
MENCIUs : REDUCED FACSIMILE OF A RUBBING FROM AN
ENGRAVED MARBLE SLAB To face page 218
AvLNUE LEADING TO THE TOMB of CONFUCIUS 228
TOMB OF CONFUCIUS 230
CoNFUCIUS, &c. &c. ...... To face page 232
BUDDHIST IDOL 272
FINE CAVE-HOUSES AT PING-DING-CHow ......................... To face page 291
CHEN-WU, or MonumENTS FOR AVERTING EVIL INFLUENCEs.......... 322
BRONZE IDOL 339
NESTORIAN TABLET ....... ..To face page 381
HEAD OF NESTORIAN TABLET 382
FACSIMILE OF RUBBING OF THE NESTORIAN CRoss .............................. 383
MAP of North CHINA AND COREA To face page 444
WOLUME II.
VIEw of PEKING, witH IMPERIAL BRIDGE (To face Title).
Mongol ENCAMPMENT, en route, FROM A NATIVE DRAWING.
To face page 94
TEMPLE OF HEAVEN, ON THE NORTH ALTAR, AT PEKING .............. 3.18
MAP OF PART OF MANCHURIA To face page 442
( xix )
MEASURES OF LENGTH.
Chih — according to }
Board of Works......... = 13'1-8 inches.
14:1 inches.
riff ~~~~
10 chih ......….. = 1 chang.
1 chang … = 3 11-12 yards.
1 li = 1,826 feet.
2.89 li (according to º º
old usage) ................... 1 English mile.
250 li (according to the).
Jesuit º = 1 degree.
which now prevails)
25 li do do.......... = 1 French league.
3:1-3 li.....do do.......... = 1 English mile.
LAND MEASURE.
733'32 square yards ..... = 1 mow.
6'61 mow ......................... = 1 acre.
100 mow............................. = 1 king.
l king.…" = 15:13 Square acres.
MEASURE OF CAPACITY.
1 shing … = 96-100 pint.
10 shing … = 1 tau.
1 tau ..….........…...... = 1°13 gallon.
WEIGHT.
16 liang … = 1 catty.
1 catty.….. = 1:1-3 lb. avoirdupois.
100 catties ......................... = 1 picul.
1 picul “…. = 133: 1-3 lb. avoirdupois.
MONEY. *
13 cash …....... = say 1 fun.
130 cash .............................. = say 1 tséen.
1,300 cash ......................... = say 1 liang or tael.
1 fun … = 1 candareen.
10 candareen .................... = 1 mace.
10 mace .............................. = 1 tael.
1 tael … = say 6s. 3d.
1,000 cash ......................... = say 4s. 10d.
* See fuller explanations, Wol. I. pp. 58–62.
( xx )
WOCABULARY OF SOME CHINESE WORDS FREQUENTLY
RECURRDNG.
Shan, a hill.
Chung, e
Cheng, } a city.
Chwang, a large village.
Tsun, ,
Tun, )
Kwan, a fortified pass.
Mun,
Men, } a gate.
Row, a port.
a village.
Riai, a street where a market is held.
Ho, a river or canal.
Kiang, a great river.
Hu,
Hoo,
Yamun, a mandarin’s office.
Wang, a prince.
} a lake.
WOCABULARY OF A FEW MONGOLIAN WORDS.
Alin, a mountain.
Omo,
Nor,
Pira, a river.
Ula,
Muren,
Hata, a rock.
Hotan, a city.
}a lake.
}a great river.
j
r;
JOURNEYS IN
NORTH CHINA, MANCHURIA, AND
EASTERN MONGOLIA.
CHAPTER I.
INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS BEARING ON THE
PRESENT AND FUTURE OF CHINA.
Af
Extent of China—Varieties of Soil and Climate—Mineral Resources--
Water Communication—Mental Capacity of the People—Written
Ilanguage—Education—Untouched Resources—Deplorable Condi-
tion of the Chinese—Memorial to the Emperor—Intrigues of Can-
didates for Office—Lying and Deceit Universal—No Hope for
China in Herself—Mr. Hart's Opinion.
“DESCRIBE to me,” says Cousin, “the geography of
a country, and I will foretell its future.” Applying this
principle to China, the future of that country stands out
clearly before us.
China Proper extends from about the 19th to the
41st parallel of north latitude, and the 97th to the
WOL. I. 1
2 %
2 . INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS.
122nd of east longitude. It comprises an area of
1,300,000 square miles, or nearly 832,000,000 of square
acres. Within these limits are embraced every variety
of soil and climate. There are tracts of champaign
country like France and Beigium ; Swampy districts
like Holland; and mountainous regions like Switzerland.
Advancing within the tropic of Cancer three degrees,
and extending northwards towards Mongolia—including
every degree of altitude from the sea-level to the per-
petual snow-line, and every variety of conformation of
hill and valley, land and water—it yields everything
that can be desired for the sustenance, comfort, or
luxury of man. Its mineral resources are very great,
surpassing those of Europe and Australia, and rivalling
those of the Western States of America. Professor
Ansted, in his official catalogue of the Great Exhibition
in 1851, gives the area of the coal-fields of Great Britain
at 12,000 square miles, and that of the United States
of America at 130,000 square miles, whereas that of the
North of China alone—not to speak of South China or
Western China—is estimated by W. S. Kingsmill, C.E.,
at 83,000 square miles. Iron-ore and iron-stone, of
various descriptions, are found in every province, in
many places in great abundance, and, what is most
noteworthy, the black magnetic ore—the finest ore in
the world—is the kind in common use, so much so,
that the Chinese seidom work any other in the manu-
facture of iron. Copper, lead, tin, silver, and gold are
plentiful, scarcely a district of China being without one
MENTAL CAPACITY OF THE PEOPLE. 3
or other of them. The water communication is ex-
tremely well distributed—in this respect superior to
that of most countries, and surpassed by none.
The mental capacities of the people are of no
inferior order. Their administrative powers are remark-
able. Sir Frederick Bruce is reported to have said that
“Chinese statesmen were equal to any he ever met
in any capital in Europe.” This may, or may not
be. Certain it is, they hold their own with our
British diplomatists. Chinese merchants cope success-
fully with our own in all departments of trade; in
fact are gaining ground on them. * Their literati
are equal to any intellectual task Europeans can set
before them ; and Chinamen have carried off, in fair
and keen competition, high honours in British and
American universities. The number of high-class books
mastered by not a few is quite stirprising. The common
people are shrewd, painstaking, and indomitable ; and
the more I have travelled among them the more have
I been impressed with their mental promise, docility,
and love of order.
The Chinese have a written language co-extensive
with their vast dominions, and although there are many
varieties of spoken dialects in the South, yet from the
Yang-tsi-kiang to the Amoor, and from the Yellow Sea
to India, one speech obtains, viz., the Mandarin col-
loquial, which has also the immense advantage of being
* See Consul Medhurst’s “Report on the Trade of Shanghai’—
Blue Book (China) No. 7, 1870. -
4 INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS.
a written language. Education prevails extensively, and
the minds of the youth are all directed towards moral
excellence as the acme of their ambition. Here, then,
we have all the elements needful to success and
dominion: no end of coal for steam purposes, abund-
ance of iron for machinery, facility for cheap and rapid
communication, capacity to govern, brains to plan, hands
to work, and a will to put everything in motion, sub-
servient to their own interests.
Now, when we consider that the soil is as rich and
fertile as ever; that the mineral resources not only of
North China but of the West and the South—equally
great—are all practically untouched ; when we add the
varied promise and mineral wealth of Manchuria and
Corea, the extent of the population, the ability and
enterprise of the people as attested by a consecutive
history of four millenniums, and the general character of
the race, who does not see that the Chinese nation is
destined to rise and dominate the whole of Eastern
Asia 2 -
The Chinese have always been the imperial race in
the far East; and they are as able as ever to exercise
dominion, and will assuredly do so. It is true that at
present they are in a most deplorable condition. Their
old principles of government are disregarded; the
maxims of their classics utterly ignored by the gene-
rality of their rulers; rapacity and corruption pervade
every department of the State, even to a far greater
degree than foreigners ever imagined. Witness their
MEMORIAL TO THE EMPEROR. 5
recent memorials to the throne published in the Peking
Gazette ; as a sample of which, a few sentences may
be quoted here from the memorial of Ting-ta-jen, the
governor of the province of Kiang-Su, a man of great
authority and position. In regard to the men who now
aspire to office, he says:—
“That men bent on speculation, not only those of but moderate
circumstances, but even the naked poor, come knocking at the door for
office. Those who have no means of making a living, gather a little
here and a little there, in order to make merchandise of office—thinking
that with an office bought for a thousand some hundred taels,” on their
arrival at their station, they can draw several tens of taels per month, and
at once receive a good percentage on their investment. And if, perchance,
they get temporary charge of an office, or full possession of a vacancy,
whether they make the less sum of some thousands, or the greater sum
of some tens of thousands, they seek only their individual advantage,
regardless of the injury to the public welfare ; ” and, further on, he slyly
assumes that, “it is known that these men who thus receive their
appointments from the Board of Revenue, can henceforth fraudulently
appropriate the government revenues, can henceforth plunder and
oppress the people; in hearing a trial can make the wrong appear the
right; in the pursuit and apprehension of criminals can cause it to be
falsely testified that virtuous men are robbers.” Referring to the results of
the present public examination system, he says: “To speak, for example,
of the one province of Kiang-su, of the office of Tau-tai there are only
two or three vacancies which can be filled apart from the throne. Of
the offices of Chih-fu, Chih-chow, Chih-hien, Tung-chih, and Tung-paw,
only some tens can thus be filled, while there are about sixty or seventy
men expectants of the office of Tau-tai, and more than a thousand for the
other offices. But to put a thousand and more in several tens of offices
must be the work certainly of a distant and undetermined future. Even in
the selection, according to the order of time, and the fulfilment of require-
ments for temporary posts, unless it be those who have been expectants
for more than ten years, none can get a single year’s office. Those who
are nimble-footed and manage to advance sooner, must either be clever
in boring and scheming their way, or have friends in a position to help
them forward. How can such a class, by nature unreliable and sordid,
* Tael, equal to, say, 6s.
6 INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS.
be expected to cherish the people 2 Supposing that, in the course of
ten or more years, they obtain one year's office as a substitute, out of
this one year must come the expenses of the preceding ten and more
years for clothes and food, the cost of maintaining a family, and return-
ing favours; and besides, in this one year of temporary office, provision
must be made for the future. To place dogs and sheep before a hungry
tiger, and expect him not to seize and eat them, although you should make
a show of preventing him with a stout bow and poisoned arrows, would
certainly be to expect an impossibility. And so these men, having no
fixed source of income, and consequently no fixed purpose of heart, are
not simply villains; their very penury is the reason of their becoming so.””
This testimony is true, not of Kiang-su alone, but
of the whole Empire. Poverty, on the part of the
Government, has induced them to depart from their old
plan of competition, and dispose of their magistracies for
money. This accounts for the evils above described,
and explains their apprehension of the advance of
European civilization. These are the literati who
stir up the common people against missionaries and
foreigners. These are the men who, with the threat
of reporting them to the mandarins, annoy and
squeeze Christian converts, and such native merchants
as may be seeking to introduce improvements. These
are the men who, at every point, retard the advance-
ment of western civilization, and in whose favour so
much has been spoken in our highest circles and best
literature. Clearly there is no hope from such men.
But the most melancholy fact is, that there is
about as little hope apart from these “hungry tigers.”
Superstition clouds the finest intellects, as we have
* See translation in Supreme Court and Consular Gazette, Sept. 11,
1869.
NO HOPE FOR CHINA. IN HERSELF. 7.
repeatedly witnessed; a low and mean spirit has crept
into the homes even of the higher classes; Squalor
and filth are often barely concealed beneath the grand
silks and embroidered dresses of the wealthy; opium
is gnawing at the vitals of the Empire, and destroying
thousands of its most promising sons. And, worst of
all, there is no truth in the country. Falsehood and
chicanery are their hope and their weapons. Scheming
has been reduced to a science: deceit and lying placed
upon the pedestal of ability and cleverness. The com-
mon people know not when they may be pounced upon
by their own protectors; and so a paralysing sense of
insecurity pervades the country throughout its whole
extent.
As far as we can see, there is no hope for China in
'China herself. We have, at different times and in
different connections, inquired separately of the ablest
Europeans and Americans in Peking, men who had the
best opportunities of knowing the true state of matters,
—whether they had ever met a man in official circles who
ºunderstood the times, and was likely to put forth some
intelligent effort to raise his country, and the reply has
invariably been in the negative.
Mr. Hart, the Inspector-General of the Chinese
Customs—a gentleman in constant personal communica-
tion with the highest mandarins in the Empire, and in
respect of this matter the best European authority in
China—holds the same opinion. “Out of the thousands
of officials in the Empire,” he says, “only some forty
8 INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS.
in the provinces, and perhaps ten at Peking, have a
glimmering notion of what it is that the foreigner means
when he speaks in general terms of progress, but of
those fifty not one is prepared to enter boldly on a
career of progress, and take the consequence of even a
feeble initiative.”"
This accords with my own observation. There is
not a man at present within the field of view in China
of whom anything towards the reorganization of the
country and the elevation of the people can be expected.
The nation, therefore, must become more and more
corrupt, unless some external element be introduced to
save it. This is clear; but here lies the difficulty.
There are, in addition to the preceding facts, certain
formidable barriers in the way of European intercourse,
and the introduction and action of foreign ideas.
* See Ross Browne's Correspondence.
( 9 )
CHAPTER II.
BARRIERS IN THE WAY OF PROGRESS IN CHINA.
Pretensions of the Emperor—His Titles—Duration of his Assumed
Greatness—Conduct of the Government towards Prince Alfred—-
Lord Elgin's Policy—Conceit and Ignorance of the People—Their
Estimate of Foreigners—Chinese Maps—Mr. Hart’s Testimony—
Worship of Ancestors a Form of Idolatry—Evils resulting from it
—Chinese Emigrants—Horrible State of Society in Manchuria and
Mongolia—The Fung Shui Superstition—Solutions of the Diffi-
culty—The Opium Traffic—Universal Untruthfulness and Deceit
—What the Chinese need to Reform them.
FIRST among these barriers stands the position and
pretensions of the Emperor. This is the backbone
of Chinese exclusiveness. He claims to be the repre-
sentative of God upon earth; the source of law, office,
power, honour, and emolument; the possessor of the
soil; the owner of all the resources and wealth of the
country; and entitled to the services of all the males
between the years of sixteen and sixty.
In perfect consistency with these prerogatives, his
government assumes control over “Tien hia,” or all
under heaven; or, as it is sometimes put, all within the
“four seas.” The “nui-fan." and the “wai-fan *—that
is, the interior and outside foreigners, or, more offensively,
10 BARRIERS IN THE WAY OF PROGRESS.
and in reference to more remote tribes, the “nui-t’ and
the “atai-i,” i.e. the internal and external barbarians—
are all under his jurisdiction. So clearly is the unique-
ness of his position understood that he is acknowledged
and called the “Tien tsze,” or the Son of Heaven,
and sometimes the Holy Son of Heaven. He also calls
himself, and is designated by his subjects, as the
“ Kwa jen,” the “man who stands by himself,” or the
“Rwa kuin,” “solitary prince.” He thus recognizes
no equal upon earth, and scouts the very idea of being
placed on a footing of equality with any royal family.
The usual apothegm is, “There cannot be two Suns in
the heavens, or two (Whang-ti) Emperors in the
World.”
This assumption is no modern invention. It is one
of the most elemental ideas of the Chinese system. It
has lived through many revolutions, and gathered strength
by the triumphs of four thousand years. It is supported
by tens of thousands of men distinguished for ability
and a certain culture of intellect, and is proclaimed in
all quarters of the Empire by a three-hundred-million-
tongued voice.
This most exclusive claim stands before us as firmly
as it did centuries ago. Witness the Imperial edicts,
the reference made by the late Emperor to the President
of the United States, viz., that “the idea of his equality
was a 'subject to be relegated to the regions of laughter;”
and, above all, the conduct of the Chinese Government
in reference to the visit of H.R.H. Prince Alfred to
CONCEIT AND IGNORANCE OF THE PEOPLE. 11
Peking, in the autumn of 1869. But this is a most
serious obstacle, for it is clear that so long as the
Emperor of China claims to be superior to the Queen of
Great Britain or other European sovereigns, and the
mandarins refuse to acknowledge the full equality and
authority of our plenipotentiaries and consuls, there never
can be satisfactory or amicable relations with them. The
keen vision of Lord Elgin saw this, and he resolved to
destroy the pretension for ever by a march upon Peking.
But he was baffled. The Emperor fled to Tartary; and
by his most opportune death a boy of six years old was
elevated to the Imperial throne, and thus the question
Was effectually shelved. But it has come up again, and,
in fact, is the question of the day in Chinese politics.
Besides the theocratic assumptions of the Emperor,
another most formidable obstacle to the progress of
China is to be found in the ignorance, conceit, and
superciliousness of the people. They are bad enough
at the ports, despite of all they see and hear; but the
lack of knowledge there is nothing in comparison with
the crass ignorance and absurd ideas entertained of
foreigners which characterize the Chinese of the interior.
None but those who have travelled inland and mingled
freely with the people can have an idea of the extent and
depth of this darkness. The great masses—the nation,
not the sprinkling of people on the coast—look upon us
as a different species of beings. In some places they
call us “devils,” not in impertinence, but in genuine
ignorance of our origin and character; so much so, that
12 EARRIERS IN THE WAY OF PROGRESS.
they often use this term with complimentary prefixes, as,
e.g., their practice of calling a friend of ours “Kwhetze
tajen,”—i.e. “His Excellency the Devil.” Moreover,
they often use this epithet in our courts of justice. In
other places, they look upon us as a race of fierce men
not quite up to the mark in mental powers. Many a
time have foreigners been provoked by Chinamen coming
up to them, patting them on the shoulder, and caressing
them just as we would a huge Newfoundland dog or a
semi-tamed lion. Nor is this all. They appear in many
districts to look upon us as a species of fools. Often
have I observed Chinamen address myself and others
just as mendacious nursery-maids address children, as
if we were incapable of seeing through their barefaced
lies and shallow deceit.
Moreover, they still look upon their country as sacred
Soil. The common name for it among themselves is the
“Middle Kingdom,” and this is propagated by their
maps, which represent China as occupying four-fifths
of the earth, and foreign nations as forming a narrow
fringe on the outside.
Authorities testifying of this self-complacency and
ignorance could be given in great numbers. I shall
adduce only one, but it is the latest, and also the most
unquestionable. The Chief Inspector of the Chinese
Customs' Service, Mr. Hart, speaking on this point,
says: “Not one Chinaman in ten thousand knows
anything about the foreigner; not one Chinaman
in a hundred thousand knows anything about foreign
ANCESTRAL WORSHIP. 13
inventions and discoveries; and not one in a million
acknowledges any superiority in either the condition
or the appliances of the West; and of the ten or
twenty men in China who really think Western ap-
pliances valuable, not one is prepared to boldly advocate
their free introduction.” ”
Their system of ancestral worship, though affecting
the people in a different way from the former, is no
less a tremendous barrier to true progress. “What l”
says Davis, in his work on China, “it is only a
harmless, if not meritorious, respect for the dead.”
“Ancestral worship !” says Fortune, in his Tea Districts
of China—“a considerable portion of it springs from
a purer and higher source than mere matter of form,
and the Chinese indulge the pleasing reflection that
when they themselves are in their graves they will not
be neglected or forgotten.” “Ancestral worship !”
shouts a whole chorus of journalists—“it is a praise-
worthy institution, indicative of noble feelings.” They
know little about it. In the first place, it is, though a
plausible, a most unequivocal form of idolatry—not
idolatry in the letter, for there are no idols used in this
worship, but in the spirit. They meet, Salute, worship,
and escort away the spirits of their ancestors in the
most profoundly religious way of which their nature is
capable. It is the most thoughtful, collected, and rever-
ential act of their lives. Now, this practice runs right
* See North China Herald, Nov. 9, 1869. See also Mr. Oxhenham’s
Report of Journey from Pekin to Hankow, vol. ii. Appendix No. 1.
14 BARRIERS IN THE WAY OF PROGRESS.
in the teeth of the first commandment in the Decalogue;
therefore, in its present form, cannot be allowed in pro-
fessing Christians. But, further, it involves an untruth
of the most serious and far-reaching character—viz.,
that the spirits of the dead are at liberty to visit their
posterity; and it is also a proposition in mockery of
common sense—namely, that the dead require articles
of food, clothing, and furniture etherealised by fire.
These objections, I am aware, are held very light by
some, but there are other evils which result from this
practice which no one can ignore. This system has a
most deleterious effect upon Chinese society. It is the
great cause of early betrothals on the part of parents;
a fruitful source of female degradation, misery, and
suicide. Further, it is the cause of polygamy, and all
its attendant evils. The Chinese cannot bear the
thought of having no posterity to provide the sacrifices,
and so they often have as many wives as they can
afford to maintain. Again, it supplies the reason why
Chinamen never emigrate as families ; only certain
male members of the family in any instance leaving
their native place, and that only temporarily, with the
purpose and aim to return home as soon as they have
acquired a store of the foreigner's money. -
This question is now assuming very important
aspects. Multitudes of Chinese are proceeding to Aus-
tralia and the East Indian archipelago, and yet greater
numbers to the Western States of America. Additional
steamers are being placed on this latter line, and the
HORRIBLE STATE OF SOCIETY. 15
tide of emigration is rising most rapidly. But the emi-
grants are all males—with the exception of a few ruined
females, not one in 100 of the aggregate. The Ame-
ricans are getting into a ferment as to how to deal
with their Chinese immigrants. They say, “If they
brought their wives with them it would be a less
grievance, but as they are all workers who come, they
underbid us in every department of labour, as well as
indulge in every form of vice, and carry all their savings
with them out of our country to enrich another.”
This same question has also a bearing on Manchuria
and Mongolia. There are scores of towns in these
regions where there is not one respectable Chinese
woman,—only communities of males, among whom the
most abominable vices are perpetrated ; and not until this
fetter is broken will Chinamen feel free to settle with
their families either beyond the wall of Ten Thousand
li, or in the fruitful lands of California or Micronesia.
Nor till then will Chinese cease to crowd their native
districts, in spite of poverty and want.
There is yet another obstacle, the “Fung Shui ’’
of China. This is related to the former, but is suffi-
ciently distinct to demand a special notice. It is a
modern superstition, not recognized in their classics,
and, indeed, is denounced in the sacred edicts of their
famous Emperor Kang-hi; and in this way can be met .
by us with great power. But it has a very firm hold on
the people in all places and of all classes. For a full
explanation of the Fung Shui, I refer to a pamphlet
16 EARRIERS IN THE WAY OF PROGRESS.
by Rev. M. Yates, of Shanghai. I may, just in a word,
say, that the principle of it is this: that all genial life-
giving influences come from the south, and all those
of an evil deadening character from the north. They
think that these influences proceed in as straight a line
as possible; and that if any high building be raised, it
will divert the current from the places due north of it,
and so injure the inhabitants in the direct line imme-
diately beyond. On this account they imagine that
cuttings in hills and through graveyards would awaken
the whole invisible fraternity, and produce most disas-
trous consequences. For the same reason they think
that high towers, telegraph-poles, railway-cuttings and
signals would compel the good spirits to turn aside in
all directions, and so throw everything into confusion.
In dealing with this difficulty there are the fol-
lowing solutions which the Chinese themselves must
admit to be valid :
The Emperor, as the Son of Heaven, is lord of the
spirits. This is recognized universally by the Chinese.*
He is their superior; he can command them and appoint
them, and they are bound to obey his behests. A
formal decree from him would therefore allay all popular
dread.
Boads have been made before—imperial highways
—going in a direct line through everything, as far as
* See Mr. Edkins’ description of the worship in the Temple of
Heaven, vol. ii. of this work, and Dr. Legge's account of the Hymns
of the Ming Dynasty in his book on “Chinese Ideas of God and Spirits.”
THE OPIUM TRAFFIC. 17
practicable; with high towers, every 33 miles, for tele-
graphs, overlooking and commanding the whole country
around; and they stand to this present day.
Nothing can be wrong which is for the well-being
of the Empire and the living people ; everything suc-
cumbs to Salus populi. This is the doctrine of their
own classics.
The principle of railways and telegraphs is involved
in their own theory of government.
Then, in addition, we Christians have our own argu-
ments:—The absurdity of the Fung Shui ; the existence
of one God, the Supreme Ruler, who is over all, blessed
for ever.
Another great hindrance to the advancement of China
is the opium traffic. Foreign residents in China, of
almost all classes and professions, now agree in con-
demning this traffic. Even merchants are becoming
ashamed of it, and are leaving it to Jews and Parsees.
They see that it is injuring the country in all its
departments, and seriously affecting the increase of the
population. Unfortunately it has created a most power-
ful prejudice against us among the best minds in the
country; for the more intelligent and virtuous and
patriotic a man is, the more indignant is he at the
presumption of nations implicated in the opium trade
seeking to introduce new forces to elevate his country-
f\len.
Notwithstanding that the Indian revenue is impli-
cated in the question, and several large private com-
WOL. I. 2
18 BARRIERS IN THE WAY OF PROGRESS.
mercial firms are involved, we make bold to say, that
it is unquestionably the interest of the commercial
world as a whole to put an end to this terrible vice in
China. Whatever injures a nation, injures commerce
in all its departments and aspects. But this vice is
impoverishing and depopulating a country larger and
far richer than Europe. The interests of humanity,
therefore, call for its abolition. Why, it would take all
the mills in Lancashire to supply only one-half of China
with cotton cloth for stockings At the same time it
appears clear that the opium traffic is now beyond
government control. It might be stopped in India,
but that would make little difference in China. They
would only grow more there or elsewhere. The traffic
may be fulminated against from Peking, but as long
as mandarins are what they are, such edicts will be
practically a dead letter. There are literally several
millions in China to whom opium is more valuable
than life. The only hope is the creation of a public
opinion against it among those who abstain from the
poison, and among the young; so that the generation
of opium-smokers may in due course die out. This
reformation has already commenced, and only needs to
be fostered and systematized.
The last obstacle to which I shall refer has been
already hinted at, viz., the absence of truth and
uprightness and honour. This is a most appalling
void, and, unfortunately, it meets one in all classes and
professions of the people. I do not refer to money
BARRIERS–HOW TO BE REMOVED, 19
matters, for, as a rule, they stand well in this respect,
inasmuch as they know that, unless they fulfilled their
business engagements, they would soon cease to have
any business at all. I refer to general matters, and for
illustrations may point to every page of our intercourse
with them.
Such are the chief barriers in the path of true
progress, and the elevation of the people of China.
The question is—how are they to be removed ?
Most emphatically they need some thing which
shall awaken the moral sense, create the fear of God,
and adjust and strengthen the conscience. This is
absolutely indispensable to any degree of true advance-
ment in any department of the nation, for without a
regard for truth, honour, and righteousness, what can
be done 2
They need light to inform their minds in regard to
their position as a nation, and every branch. of know-
ledge and every department of science.
They need foreigners of some culture, and of Christian
principles, to mingle with the people, disabuse their
minds of their prejudices, initiate them into the path
of progress, and to instruct, guide, and encourage them
in their new career. But how are these things to be
provided ? - -
( 20 )
CHAPTER III.
MORAT, FORCES IN CHINA.
Influence of Foreign Commerce—Effects of Competition—The Foreign
Customs’ Service—Salutary Influence of the Consular Services—
The Diplomatic Services—What have they done 2—The Anglo-
Chinese College—Chinese Newspapers—Roman Catholic Missions
—Date of their Establishment—Native Christians—Benefit and
Deficiencies of the Catholic Missions—Their Industrial Schools—
Romish and Protestant Missionaries—Protestant Missions—What
they have done—Their Books, Periodicals, and Schools–Scientific
Treatises for the Chinese by Missionaries—Results of Missionary
Labour—Missionary Establishments Centres of Civilization—The
Duke of Argyll's Opinion—Foreign Intercourse with China—Lord
Elgin's Treaty—Firmness essential in Dealing with the Chinese.
FoREIGN commerce is exercising a powerful influence
upon China. Representatives of almost every nation
under heaven are found there. British and American,
French and German, Dutchmen and Danes, Norwegians
and Swedes, Spaniards, Portuguese, and Italians, Jews
and Parsees, and others—men of all characters and
professions—all keenly watching every opening, press-
ing in at every opportunity, and eagerly introducing
foreign manufactures by every possible way into the
country. And the British nation is deeply indebted
to her intelligent and enterprising merchants-who thus
open up new and wide fields for our manufactures, and
FOREIGN COMMERCE, AND COMPETITION. 21
so help greatly to provide employment for the working-
classes of our country. -
At the same time the influence of commerce in
China, as a civilizing agent, is very questionable. Its
power has been lauded to the skies, but fallaciously.
The truth is, King Commerce by himself is a decivilizer,
especially between people of unequal civilizations. Mer-
chants arrive at a semi-civilized country: they com-
mence to buy and sell. At first all goes on well enough,
but keen competition arises, scheming and lying ensue,
adulteration of goods follows, the lower people imitate
the vices of the higher, and demoralization is the in-
evitable consequence. Witness the ports on the coast
of China, and the points of contact between civilized
and semi-civilized people all the world over. So much
is this the case, that I am astonished to find any man,
who has made even one journey by any of the lines of
commerce in the East, and looked at the natives who
deal with the Europeans at the various ports, express-
ing any other opinion.
The establishment of the Foreign Customs' Service
is an element of great hope for China. The members
of it have splendid opportunities: they are in constant
contact with mandarins of all grades at the capital and
at the ports: there is less prejudice against their sug-
gestions, inasmuch as they are in the service of the
Chinese Government, and supposed to be sincerely
desirous to advance Chinese interests: and so we ex-
pected that such intimate relations between educated
22 MORAL FORCES IN CHINA.
and highly cultivated men and the native officials, would
produce the most beneficial results. Not a little good
has been effected, and we hope it is only promise of yet
mightier results.
The Consular Services embrace representatives of all
nations which trade with China. They are for the most
part able men,_many of them excellent scholars, and
well acquainted with the Chinese language. When I
think of their character, their anxiety for the interests
of their countrymen, the self-denial many of them exer-
cise, the kind feeling which many of them cherish for the
natives, and the hearty co-operation manifested in all
good public works, I cannot help bearing my humble
testimony to their worth and their labours. Their in-
tercourse with the Chinese officials has been most
Salutary; and if they have been blamed once and again
for taking too much upon themselves, or carrying
matters with too high a hand, it is because they saw
the weighty interests at stake, and the absolute indis-
pensability of firmness in their dealings with such loose
and deceitful men as are found in offices of authority in
China. Several of the consuls have performed long
journeys of late into the interior, which have been most
productive of good.
The diplomatic services also play their part in China.
For several years there have been five foreign legations
in Peking, viz., the British, American, French, Russian,
and Prussian. These legations have each had their able
and experienced ministers, their learned secretaries, and
ANGLO-CHINESE COLLEGE.—NEWSPAPERS. 23
their talented and accomplished suites. Not long since
the head of the British Legation taunted the missionaries,
publicly, with their shortcomings, and advised them to
convert first the higher classes, saying that “China would
be raised through them, not in spite of them;’ as if any
nation had ever been raised through its higher classes 1
But leaving that alone, we are tempted to ask what have
the gentlemen in this service done 2 This is quite fair.
They have all the advantages of position, prestige, and
learning: they have all the auxiliaries of modern
science and the illustrations of art and elegance: they
have also the advantage of dealing with the ablest and
most susceptible minds in the Empire. How have they
succeeded ? The fact is, they have made little or no
impression ; they have failed to induce the Chinese to
carry out Lord Elgin's treaty ; they have gained no
influence socially with the higher classes; and they
have failed to commend our culture or our civilization.
Not long ago, when the members of the Han-lin
College in Peking were asked to send some of their
men to the much-vaunted Anglo-Chinese college, they
were indignant, and replied, “What ' teach the
foreigners you mean, not learn of them, ; ” and this
saying went from lip to lip among the literati, and
quenched the latter institution for the time being.
Among the moral forces in China, an important
place must be given to the Chinese newspapers.
Several enterprising Europeans have established news-
papers in Chinese at Hong-kong and Shanghai. They
24 - MORAL FORCES IN CHINA.
are published thrice a week, and are slowly but surely -
Winning their way. They are read pretty extensively
on the coast by merchants and mandarins; and now and
then—if not regularly—to our knowledge they find
entrance to the Court at the capital. Their influence is
powerful, and we wish them all success.
Reviewing these forces, it may be well to ask what
manifest thing has been done by foreigners in China for
the enlightenment of the natives 2 Some have given
liberally of their means, various schools have been
started, and some are being sustained; but the outcome
has been comparatively little. Independently of the
missionaries, the only book, as far as I know, that has
been put into Chinese by any European or American,
among the thousands who have been in China, is Æsop's
Fables, translated by Consul Thom, late of Ningpo.
Romish missions were established in China by
Corvino as early as 1293. They were re-established by
Ricci in 1581, and strengthened and extended by his
colleagues and successors; so that there are numerous
communities of that faith in the provinces and depen-
dencies of China. We have met several of the highest
functionaries of that church in North China; and have
had repeated conversations with them, as well as with
priests, in different parts of the Empire; and we have
also come upon communities of native Christians, and
had opportunities of ascertaining their progress in faith
and knowledge. As may be supposed, the bishops and
European priests have all the peculiarities of their
ROMISH MISSIONS AND THEIR WORKS. 25
persuasion. Still they were civil to us, and many of
them are well-meaning men and earnest in their own
ways.
We look upon their work as an element of good in
China. With all their paraphernalia, there is reason to
believe that they teach the great cardinal truths of our
common faith, and not unfrequently have I been
rejoiced to find Christ and His atonement set forth as
the great basis of a sinner's hope. In many aspects
they are preparing the way for a purer form of our
religion, and no doubt their work will all be utilized and
absorbed in the march of Christian progress.
There is one great objection to them. They manifest
no intelligent zeal for the enlightenment and elevation
of the people. Few, if any, of the priests possess that
noble ambition which characterized their predecessors
Ricci, Schaal, Verbiest, and others. I have never
observed any indications among them of men grappling
with the language, and girding themselves with ardour
to overthrow the mighty evils which are stalking abroad
among the natives. -
As a rule, they content themselves with superintend-
ing native priests and catechists, and other purely official
duties. They never preach nor publish any books.
They establish schools wherever they can, and take
pains, through native teachers, to instruct the boys in
their catechisms, and also in a variety of trades: but
there is no effort made to diffuse information, enlighten
the mind, arouse generous impulses, and turn out well-
9.
26 MORAL FORCES IN CHINA.
informed, truth-seeking men and women. They make
good artisans, but that is the sum of the result. And
the only difference between them and their heathen
neighbours is that they are good mass-hearing shoe-
makers, or whatever their calling may be.
Comparisons have been drawn between them and
Protestant missionaries by men who know nothing about
the matter but that which appears on the exterior.
The self-denial of the priests has been set in its most
conspicuous light. But self-denial is a relative term.
It is an easy thing to become an ascetic ; and there is
no great merit in an educated man choosing to live a life
of somnolent routine in Chinese clothes. From what
we have seen, we believe that the man who gives his days
and nights to the language; who day by day preaches
to the people ; who strives to spread light in all directions,
and encounters the Herculean task of training up con-
verts to be men of faith and purity and power, exercises
far more true self-denial than they do ; and there can be
no question as to the comparative value of the results.
We are thus left in a great measure dependent upon
Protestant missions for the advancement of knowledge,
civilization, and true progress among the people. This
department has not failed us. And in this connection
I shall take the liberty of stating what has been done
by Protestant missionaries, and that mainly since 1850.
And here I need not speak of the translation of the
Scriptures and the numerous religious works which
they have given to the Chinese ; or of the dictionaries
PROTESTANT MISSIONS AND THEIR WORKS. 27
and grammars in common use, which, without a single
exception, have been the work of the missionaries: for
Thom's Chinese Reader and Wade's Tsu-ur-chi are mere
lesson-books. Nor need I speak of the weekly periodicals
published by the missionaries, nor tell of the extent to
which they have aided the Chinese newspapers just
referred to ; nor need I allude to the information on
China which missionaries have communicated to the
public. The Supreme Court and Consular Gazette,
November 14, 1868, says, in reference to them :—
“To such men are we indebted for more than nine-
tenths of our knowledge of China and the Chinese.”
Nor need I say anything regarding their schools. I
refer only to works of a strictly scientific character.
^ Dr. Hobson has given them works on Physiology;
on the Principles and Practice of Surgery; on the
Practice of Medicine and Materia Medica; on the Dis-
eases of Children; on the Elements of Chemistry and
Natural Philosophy. Mr. Wylie has given them the
whole of Euclid; De Morgan's Algebra, in thirteen
books; Loomis' Analytical Geometry and Differential
and Integral Calculus, in eighteen books; a work
on Arithmetic and Logarithms; Herschel’s Astronomy
(large edition), in eighteen books, and also the first part
of Newton's Principia, which is now in process of
completion. Mr. Edkins has translated Whewell’s
Mechanics, and given them many other contributions
On Science and western literature. Mr. Muirhead has
produced a work on English history and another on
28 MORAL FORCES IN CHINA.
universal geography. Dr. Bridgman has published a
finely illustrated work on the United States of America.
Dr. W. P. Martin has translated Wheaton's Inter-
national Law, and just published an elaborately illus-
trated work, in three large volumes, on Chemistry and
Natural Philosophy. Other missionaries have given
them works on Electro-telegraphy, Botany, and ele-
mentary treatises on almost every subject of Western
\ science. And, what is very important, the greater
'number of these works have been reprinted verbatim by
native gentlemen, and some have also been reproduced in
Japan by the Japanese; thus vouching not only for the
adaptedness of the works, but also for the literary
attainments of the authors.
It may be said that it is the business of missionaries
to produce these books. But this is not the case. They
have their own special work, and as little time for extra
labour of this kind as men in any other profession in
China. Further, consider the direct results of missionary
labours. There are now considerably more than five
thousand five hundred enrolled as members of Christian
churches. No doubt there are some unmitigated ras-
callions among them, just as there are unadulterated
scamps at home, who try the mask of religion to further
their own selfish ends; but we have some splendid
men in missionary churches, whose exemplary lives and
Christian labours would adorn any church in the world.
Much has been said against missionaries going into the
interior, lest they should complicate matters between
DUKE OF ARGYLL'S OPINION. 29
the Chinese Government and our own. But what is
a missionary or other traveller in China? Is he not a
living volume on ethnology adapted to the capacities
of the weakest of the people 2 What are missionary
establishments 2 Are they not centres of civiliza-
tion ? are they not foci of light 2 and do they not
in a greater or lesser degree radiate knowledge of
every description all around tham 2 It is said that they
beget trouble ; but as regards the Protestant missions,
I venture to question the truth of the statement.
Somewhere about a hundred missionaries have been
always at work during the past twenty years at the
ports and in various directions in the interior, and with
the exception of the troubles of 1868, and another
trifling affair which occurred in 1848, I know of no
instance where gun-boats were called for on their account.
There are black sheep in every fold, but there have been
remarkably few among the missionaries; and as for
their educational qualifications, there are far more Uni-
versity men among them than in any other profession
in China. Their work is indispensable to the elevation
of the Chinese.
It has been recently laid down as a “law of nature,”
that all progress depends upon the growth of human
thought and the dissemination of knowledge. The
Duke of Argyll says: “Among the most certain of all
the laws of man's nature is this, that his conduct will
be, in the main, guided by his moral and intellectual
conviction ; ” and quotes from J. S. Mill's edition of
30 MORAL FORCES IN CHINA.
Comte, to the effect, that “all human society is
grounded upon a system of fundamental opinions.” "
Hence it is clear that any advancement in China
depends on the diffusion of truth in all its phases.
This has hitherto been almost entirely the work of the
Protestant missionary, who is rather entitled to more
encouragement in his civilizing pursuits than to be
made the subject of unfounded censure.
Such is a brief sketch of some of the leading forces
at work in China. They are making their influence
more powerfully felt every day, and we cannot arrest
their march. We may, if we please, spend time in
discussing whether it be right or wrong to force our-
selves and our opinions on the Chinese ; but the ques-
tion is practically settled; and the recent light thrown
upon the mineral resources of the country and its
dependencies, f and the establishment of that grand
line of steamers between San Francisco and China,
preclude the faintest shadow of a possibility of renewed
isolation. We may as well think of keeping the tide
from flowing, or the sun from rising, as foreigners
from pressing into China; and, indeed, it is a tide of
enlightenment, directed by Providence.
The question now is, How shall this intercourse
be regulated 2 The Treaty of Lord Elgin provides for
most things; and, with a few additions and modifica-
* IReign of Law, pp. 388–9. *
f See Mechi's account of the gold fields in Siberia; and Major
Montgomerie's discovery of seven most promising gold fields in
Thibet.
NECESSITY FOR FIRMNESS. 31
tions, is all that can be wished. But great judgment
and firmness are needed in the application of it. The
Chinese are ill-informed—they have no idea of the
“times”—no sense of responsibility—no regard for
honour as honour, they cannot appreciate our motives;
and, above all, they don’t want us. As Sir R. Alcock
says, “the diplomatic instrument has no bending power
with the Chinese, when its stipulations may be evaded
with impunity; or, whenever it is believed that the force
which imposed it is no longer extant or available.” “
Hence the imperative need for firmness. There are no
unjust or unrighteous claims in our treaties. Their
free action will undoubtedly conduce to the advantage
and permanency of the Chinese government, and the
welfare of the people in all departments of life.
Although the Government and the literati are igno-
rant in the extreme, yet they know this much—they
know our power—the irresistibility of our fleets and our
armies. They are quick in discerning intentions. If
they see we are in earnest they will interpret it as fate,
and yield to our demands. The masses of the people
take their cue from their magistrates: they will speedily
fall in with the new state of matters—the more espe-
cially as they will soon find it to be their gain to do so.
I therefore again call for firmness : vacillation is
interpreted as weakness–delay will give them time to
avail themselves of their new arsenals and to augment
their pride, and induce them to try again the arbitration
* See Despatch to Lord Stanley, dated Feb. 5, 1869.
32 MORAL FORCES IN CHINA.
of war. In view of the life and treasure already ex-
pended to gain the foothold we have already secured—
in view of the lives and properties of foreigners in
China—in the interests of the manufacturing classes at
home—for the good of the Chinese themselves, and in
the name of humanity, firmness is called for; inasmuch
as acquiescence in their pretensions just now will, in all
probability, sooner or later involve them and ourselves
in another war: and this war will be no small matter.
( 33 )
CHAPTER IV.
RECEPTIVITY OF THE CHINESE.
Improvements adopted from other Nations in Past Times—Translations
of European Books republished by Chinese Officials — Modern
Inventions and Improvements adopted for the Defence of the
Country—Influence of the Roman Catholic Missions—Hospitals,
Schools, and Colleges—Spread of Vaccination—Openness to Con-
viction on Religious Matters—Cause of their Stationariness—
Chinese Capitalists—Prognostic of the Future of China.
THE Chinese are not naturally an anti-progressive
people. They are peculiarly amenable to reason, have no
caste, and no powerful religious bias. Their history
shows that they have adopted every manifest improve-
ment which has presented itself for these many centuries.
At the commencement of the Christian era they adopted
the decimal system of notation introduced by the
Buddhists, and changed their ancient custom of writing
figures from top to bottom, for the Indian custom of from
left to right. Every dynasty has improved the calendar
according to the increased light obtained from Western
astronomers. This holds particularly true of the present
epoch. When the Tartars obtained possession of Peking
the native mathematicians and astronomers hastened to
present the new governors with the ancient calendar
WOI. I. - 3
34 RECEPTIVITY OF THE CHINESE.
“fully revised and corrected.” An eclipse was near at
hand. The Emperor commanded a competition. The
calculations of the Roman Catholic, Father Schall, alone
were correct, and thereon he was appointed president of
the Board of Astronomy.
In the seventeenth century, the Emperor, Kang-hi,
adopted moveable copper types for printing his magnum
opus, an illustrated encyclopedia of 10,000 books, in
300 volumes; and to this day moveable types are used
for printing the daily Peking Gazette, only they are
of wood. Chinese farmers in the south and north
almost simultaneously naturalized the cotton-plant ; the
former had it from Batavia, the latter from Bokhara.
The northern people have universally adopted Indian
corn, or maize, as also the potato, from Central Asia.
Tobacco was introduced by the Manchu dynasty, and
opium, alas ! by Foreign merchants.
The same disposition prevails at the present moment
in a marked manner among certain prominent literary
men. The translation of Herschel's great work on
Astronomy has been well received, and its teaching will
doubtless prevail. Tsun-kwo-fan, the great mandarin
who has been so prominently before the European
public of late years, has republished all the works of
Luclid, consisting of the first six books translated by
Matthew Ricci, and the remaining nine recently trans-
lated by Mr. Wylie. Li-hung-chang, the famous general
of world-wide celebrity, has republished Whewell’s Me-
chanics, translated by Mr. Edkins, with a large supple-
ADOPTION OF MODERN INVENTIONS. 35
ment upon Hydrostatics and Conic Sections, taken from
the almanack which used to be issued yearly by that
gentleman. The father of Yeh, the former viceroy of
Canton, and the hero of the late Canton troubles, has
republished the works on medicine, natural philosophy,
and astronomy, given to the Chinese by Dr. Hob-
Son. Tsun-kwo-fan's brother, Tsun-kwo-chein, formerly
governor of Che-kiang province, has likewise published
all the works of the native mathematician, Li, who has
been so much indebted to the Protestant missionaries,
and who has this spring been called to Peking by the
Emperor, and appointed professor of mathematics in
the new Anglo-Chinese college at the capital.
Again, although the present Chinese Ministry are
opposed to the introduction of railways, telegraphs, and
foreign machinery for mining operations, yet they have
eagerly adopted whatever appears conducive to their
own interests. Within the last few years they have
established arsenals at various places; at Tientsin, at
Nankin, at Shanghai, and at Foochow. They have
nearly finished an extensive powder-manufactory at
Tientsin, and are building gun-boats at Shanghai and
Foochow. They are also drilling their troops, even in
the interior, in foreign fashion; and are now arranging
a system of gun-boats for the coast. They have built
two or three lighthouses, and contemplate many more.
They have also established some schools for elementary
instruction in these departments. In order to carry
out these works in as thorough a manner as they
36 RECEPTIVITY OF THE CHINESE.
possibly can, they have employed a staff of skilled
Europeans for each locality and each department, at very
high salaries. The consequence is, that these various
establishments are conducted with great vigour, and
they are turning out ordnance artillery and ammunition
of very superior character. Nor is this all. Recent
advices from China inform me that the Chinese Govern-
ment have also employed several gentlemen for the
translation of books, but unfortunately these books are for
the most part to aid them in carrying on their warlike
preparations in the several departments just alluded to.
“They are chiefly text-books for the use of students,
and embrace works on engineering in all its branches,
metallurgy, the manufacture of arms, ammunition, naval
architecture, chemistry, geology, mathematics, naviga-
tion, military and naval tactics, translation of the Admi-
ralty’s charts and Sailing directions for the Chinese
coast,” &c. Foreign manufactures of all kinds are every
year meeting with a wider market, and not only are sailing
ships, but steamers also, increasingly chartered by native
merchants. These proceedings are hopeful, inasmuch
as they evince a sense of their deficiencies in the Chinese
mind.
Nor have they been insensible to the influence of
Western philanthropy. Hospitals, indeed, existed in
the Sung dynasty, between A.D. 960 and 1278, and
perhaps earlier; but there can be no question that such
institutions received an immense impulse from the
Roman Catholic Missions. After their advent in China,
HOSPITALS.—SCHOOLS.—VACCINATION. 37
under the pressure of their example, and from the
Ming dynasty onwards, foundling hospitals and hospitals
for the sick and aged, societies for providing coffins and
food for the poor, have been established in a large pro-
portion of their great cities. Schools, and sometimes
free schools, have been founded by Imperial command
in all directions. Kang-hi, about the beginning of the
last century, issued an order to Governors of Provinces
and others, commanding the establishment of foundling
and other hospitals in all large cities. Yoong-Ching,
somewhere about 1730, ordered the erection of free
schools and country colleges. A similar order was
issued by the present Emperor in 1866, and some
private gentlemen on the coast are now instituting
girls’ schools in imitation of the Foreign Missionary
establishments. Vaccination has been carried from
Canton to Peking, where there are now four or five
establishments for the supply of the virus. It has been
adopted by many of the natives at all the ports, and in
Shan-tung it is spreading rapidly throughout the pro-
vince, propagated by native doctors. They have also
adopted fire-engines, and in some places life-boats.
In reference to religious matters we have abundant
evidence of their openness to conviction. The Buddhist
religion is a foreign importation. The Tai-ping revolu-
tion, which shook the Empire to its very centre and in
the first portion of its history promised so fair, originated
in the perusal of a foreign tract and was fed from the
Old Testament Scriptures. This for ever sets aside
38 RECEPTIVITY OF THE CHINESE.
the idea of the unimpressibility and immobility of the
Chinese mind, and shows that many amongst them are
ready not only to receive truth, but to fight for it if need
be. Stationariness, as a feature of the Chinese character,
is not natural to them, but the result of that isolation
which has been their lot. To this add bad government,
the non-diffusion of knowledge, and, above all, the
absence of that stimulus, guidance, and aim which the
Christian religion alone can supply, and the apparent
sluggishness of the Chinese mind is explained. The
truth is, the Chinese liave all the mental, moral, and
religious instincts of our common nature, with a quick
perception of what will conduce to their interest, and no
fixed prejudices to prevent them adopting it. Enlighten-
ment is all-powerful amongst mankind; advantages
clearly pointed out, and improvements lucidly set forth,
are sure to be adopted. This holds true of China as else-
where. Only openings are wanted to let the light in.
It has been said that the civilization of this people
will be a work of time, and that “a very populous and
ancient nation like the Chinese is slow to turn to an
unaccustomed stand-point.” But intelligent men are
quick to see the value of improvements, and get marvel-
lously soon accustomed to changes. Even now there
are Chinese capitalists at every port ready to invest in
Western improvements and appliances of all kinds, and
they will seize the opportunity of doing so as soon as
liberty is granted. They will supply funds for railways,
mining operations, and manufactures of every descrip-
THE FUTURE OF CHINA. 39
tion, and will enter upon these works with heart and
soul. The fact that they have preceded us in many of
the most important discoveries of modern times, such
as the compass, gunpowder, printing, the manufacture
of paper, silk, porcelain, &c., proves their inventive
genius. The ease with which they are acquiring the
ability to utilize European science in the public works
just specified, prognosticates a grand future, and shows
that when once they are in the possession of the ele-
ments of the knowledge we can give them, and touched
with the fire of rivalry, they will apply their minds to
progress: indeed the presumption is, that with their
powers of observation, skill in manipulation, their
patience, and capacity for labour, they may discover
new facts, new processes, and new appliances for the
economy of human toil.
And when once this teeming, mighty, emergetic
people have left their old tracks and entered on the
path of progress, what a revolution there will be What
a field for young men of ability, enterprise, and Christian
principles to lead the way ! -
As far as I can judge, China is now on the eve of a
new and grander career than she has ever yet known.
There may be overturnings, convulsions, much evil and
misery; these would be but birth-throes. This is the
way of Providence: whose path is frequently through evil
to good. The end, however, is not doubtful. This
great Empire will yet form a part of that glorious
KosMos to which we all look forward.
( 40 )
CHAPTER W.
THE COUNTRY AND ITS GOVERNMENT.
Physical Geography of North China—Geology—Coal-Fields—Iron Ore
—Topography—The “Foo” Cities—The Government—Magistrates
and Governors of Provinces—The Emperor—His Power and Titles
—Rights of Rebellion—The Censorate—Railways and Telegraphs
involved in the Chinese Theory of Government—Present Govern-
ment—List of its Members.
CHINA PROPER naturally divides itself into three por-
tions: first, the Southern ; second, the Central; and
third, the Northern. The Central comprises the valley of
the Yang-tze-kiang and of the Yellow River, which unite
and form the great alluvial plain so famous in China.
Indeed this portion of the “Middle Kingdom'' is as truly
the creation of these rivers, as Egypt is of the Nile.
Were I writing a book on strictly scientific prin-
ciples, it would be well to adopt the division here
indicated; but as this would exclude from North China
a great portion of Chih-li and Shan-tung, I prefer
defining North China as bounded on the south by the
province of Kiang-su and Ho-nan ; on the west by
Thibet; on the north by Mongolia and the Gulf of Pe-
chih-li; and on the east by the Yellow Sea. It thus
PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. 41
embraces Shan-tung, Chih-li, Shan-si, Shen-si, and
Kan-su, and comprises 333,329 square miles, or
213,330,560 square acres.
The aspect of North China may be regarded, gene-
rally, as one grand slope, extending from the north to
the Yellow River, and from the western border of
Thibet to the Yellow Sea. This slope dips mainly
S.E.
The northern and western portions of the country
are mountainous, while the southern and eastern dis-
tricts (excepting the centre and east of Shan-tung) form
alluvial plains. Several causes have prevailed to give
this peculiar character to the country; chiefly the great
rivers, which rise on the high Thibetan plateau, and
the lesser streams which come down from the Mon-
golian steppes, and have, from far distant eras, been
bearing down their huge burdens of silt, and forming
rich fertile plains at their debouchement. At the same
time these rivers have been constantly eating into the
softer soil of these elevated table-lands, gradually cutting
up the country, and, in this manner, forming those hills
and valleys which characterize the upper portions.
Indubitable proofs exist, that in a former period
there were two series of vast lakes, one on the north of
Chih-li, and another in Shan-si, which held immense
quantities of water. At an unknown epoch Some great
catastrophe burst open their natural sluices, and poured
their floods upon the plains below; thus they have not
only added a layer to the former alluvial soil, but have
42 THE COUNTRY AND ITS GOVERNMENT.
scooped out great valleys in several, directions, in Chih-
li and Shan-si. The evidences of these changes on the
surface of the country are twofold: I have found shells
in the plains, on the banks of the Grand Canal, near
Lin-tsing, of the same description as those found in
the calcareous soil which forms the remains of the
terrace or lake deposit in Shan-si; and then this lake
deposit lies now in detached portions in a specified
direction, the intermediate country being low-lying
fertile land. Here, then, we have a natural explanation
of the numerous erosions in the table-lands—the hard
rocky ridges and fertile valleys of the north and west,
and the fine alluvial plains of the south.
There are several indications that for ages past the
coast line has been rising ; which, of course, must be
considered in any estimate of the formation of the
country. We have, in the existing system, rocks far
above the sea-mark, which were once covered by the
tide, such as at Tung-chow-foo in Shan-tung ; also
Spits of land rising here and there connecting with the
mainland places which once were islands, and thus
creating tiny peninsulas: for instance, the Che-foo bluff;
and we find there were seaports, formerly of some
account, which are now left nearly high and dry. These
three causes have obviously been the main agents in the
formation of the country.
The geology of North China has not yet been in-
vestigated. The only man who has made anything like
an attempt in this direction is Pumpelly, whose observa-
PUMPELLY'S MAP.-COAL-FIELDS.—IRON-ORE. 43
tions have recently been given to the public. He has
drawn a hypothetical map, which, although very general
in character, is yet sufficiently correct to give one a good
idea of the main features of the country. This map
may be found in his book, and a glance at it will do
more in the way of giving a distinct idea on the sub-
ject than many pages of description. Another traveller,
of great scientific ability, Baron Ricthofen, has made
several important journeys, and is at present investi-
gating this subject. We look forward to the publication
of his researches with great interest. -
One thing deserves special attention in connection
with the geology of North China. Coal-measures are
represented as underlying the central portion of Shan-
tung, the north of Chih-li, and nearly the whole of
Shan-si, Shen-si, and Kan-su. According to Pumpelly,
there is every reason to believe that coal-measures also
underlie the post-tertiary formations which prevail in
Chih-li, the western portion of Shan-tung, and down
to the Yang-tze-kiang. Independently of him, we
also know that coal-measures prevail through the
whole of Manchuria, and very likely north to the
Amoor.
These strata are associated with several varieties of
iron-ore, among which there are great fields of the black
oxide, the finest ore in the world. Fine limestone
occurs in all directions, and valuable veins of the
precious metals are found in all the northerly provinces.
These facts are most significant, especially when taken
44 THE COUNTRY AND ITS GOVERNMENT.
in connection with the climate and with the character of
the people.
North China comprises six out of the eighteen pro-
vinces of China Proper. The following is a tabulated
view of their area and population, with the proportion
of the inhabitants to the extent of surface :-

s Area * Inhabitants
ProvinceS. in square miles. Population. **u.
Chih-li ............... 58,949 27,990,871 473
Shan-tung......... 65,104 28,958,764 515
Shan-si ............... 55,268 14,004,210 253
Shen-si ............... 67,400 10,207,256 148
Kan-su ............... 86,608 15,193,125 173
333,329
These provinces are subdivided into “foos,” or
departments, and these again into minor divisions. As
this is not a geographical treatise, only the greater divi-
sions are noted here.
CHIH-LI.—Capital, PEKING, also called Swun-tien-foo.
Pau-ting-foo" Ting-chow-foo
Ching-tuh-foo Shin-chow-foo
Hok-kien-foo Shun-tuh-foo
Tien-tsing-foo Kwan-ping-foo
Ching-ting-foo Ta-ming-foo
Yoong-ping-foo Siuen-wha-foo
SHAN-TUNG.—Capital, TSI-NAN-Foo.
Tai-ngan-foo Toong-chang-foo
Woo-ding-foo Tsing-chow-foo
Yen-chow-foo Lai-chow-foo
Yi-chow-foo Tung-chow-foo
Tsau-chow-foo
* Pau-ting-foo is the Provincial Capital.
THE “FOO 99 CITIES. 45
SHAN-SI.—Capital, TAI-YUEN-Foo.
Ping-yang-foo Fun-chow-foo
Pu-chow-foo Tseh-chow-foo
Lu-ngan-foo Ta-tung-foo
Ning-woo-foo Soa-ping-foo
SHEN-SI.—Capital, SI-NGAN-Foo.
Toong-chow-foo
Fung-siang-foo
Yen- ngºn-foo
Han-dzing-foo
Hing-ngan-foo
Yu-lin-foo
KAN-SU.—Capital, LAN-CHow-Foo.
I’ing-liang-foo Si-ning-foo
Koong-chang-foo Liang-chow-foo
Ring-yang-foo Kan-chow-foo
Ning-hia-foo
These “fool” cities are the chief cities of the several
departments of the province ; hence they are called
“departmental cities.” Under them are other cities,
called “chow” and “hien.” This division is apt to
mislead, unless care be taken, as it gives the idea of
cities of different orders and importance; whereas the
“chow” cities are either lesser departmental cities,
exercising a similar jurisdiction, or of the same
character as “hien” cities. One thing only requires
to be observed, the magistrate of the “chow” cities has
a higher rank than the magistrate of the “hien” cities;
the lesser “chow” cities having a mandarin of the sixth
rank, the greater “chow ’’ cities one of the fifth rank.
Inside each “fool” city there is likewise a “hien’’
magistrate, with a corresponding district.
In order to explain distinctly the character of the
Government, it is necessary to describe the province
46 THE COUNTRY AND ITS GOVERNMENT.
and functions of the several magistrates, beginning with
the one who rules over the “hiens,” or lesser divisions.
These “hiens” are districts about the size of an Eng-
lish county, and the head mandarin is called the “chi-
hien,” or “the man who knows the hien,” as he is sup-
posed to be minutely acquainted with everything that
transpires within its bounds. This man is a very
important official, and his duties are multifarious. He
is the sheriff, the director of police, the coroner, and
the judge of all cases civil and criminal which occur
in his shire; he is also the receiver of taxes, and the
examiner, in the first instance, of literary candidates.
He has usually one other civil mandarin under him,
called the “ assistant district magistrate,” who is sta-
tioned outside the district city, at the most populous
place, or in the town of greatest mercantile importance
in the “hien.” Under the “chi-hien,” and responsible
to him, are inspectors of police, masters of prisons, and
a host of subordinates, as writers, clerks, tax-gatherers,
bailiffs, policemen, and turnkeys.
Above the “chi-hien,” or district magistrate, is the
“chi-foo,” “he who knows the foo,” or the head of the
department, called “prefect” by the English. The
“foo,” or department, comprehends several hiens or
districts—sometimes many, and sometimes few. The
prefect takes a general supervision of all that occurs
in his department, and hears appeals from the court
of the “chi-hien,” or the court of “chi-chow,” when
the chi-chow is only a “hien.”
GOVERNORS OF PROVINCES. 47
Several departments grouped together form a circuit,
at the head of which is a magistrate called the Tau-tai,
or “Interidalut of Circuit,” a name familiar enough to
such as are interested in Chinese affairs. He takes the
general Superintendence of all matters in his circuit, but
more especially those relating to trade and commerce,
which are outside of those local cases which fall under
the jurisdiction of the “chi-hien.” He corresponds with
foreign consuls, oversees the customs, and hears appeals
from the Court of the Prefect. There are two kinds of
Tau-tai, one called the Ping-pae-tau; the other, the
Yen-yun-tau. The first has authority over the military,
and power to call out soldiers to suppress any local
rising. The special duties of the other pertain to salt,
of which the Government has a monopoly, and he is
generally called the “Salt Commissioner.” The Tau-
tai generally resides in some of the “foo” cities, but
frequently has his official quarters at the most important
place in his circuit, as, e.g., the Tau-tai of the eastern
portion of Shan-tung resides at Che-foo, which, until
lately, was only of the standing of an unwalled village.
Over all these is the Governor of the Province, who
resides at the provincial capital, is called the Swuin-foo,
and acts instead of the Emperor. He is the only official
who has authority to address the Cabinet Council, or the
Throne. He stands at the head of all the affairs of the
province, is commander-in-chief, and has the power of
life and death. Subordinate to him are three other
officials, whose authority likewise extends to all parts
48 THE COUNTRY AND ITS GOVERNMENT.
of the province in their respective capacities. These
are “the Superintendent of Provincial Finances,” called
the “Pie-chung-Sz;” “the Provincial Criminal Judge,”
called “Ngan-cha-Sz,” and “the Provincial Educational
Examiner,” called “ Hioh-tai.”
The first receives the taxes from the district magis-
trates, and accounts for them to the Governor, and also
to the Fiscal Board at Peking. The second receives all
criminals sentenced by the district magistrates to death
or banishment, re-examines, them, reports their case to
the governor and then to the Criminal Board at Peking.
The third repairs twice every three years to each of the
departmental cities, and, in concert with the Prefect, con-
ducts the last of the series of primary examinations;
after which a fixed number of candidates from each
“hien” receive the first literary degree, equivalent to
our B.A. He also corresponds with the Han-lin College,
or Board of Education at Peking.”
Bach province has a military establishment, and
each Tau-tai has under his control a certain number of
men. But at present these forces are often more
nominal than real, and the military authorities often
draw pay for soldiers who do not exist.f
Over the Governor of the Province and all military
authorities is the Viceroy, who generally superintends
the affairs of two provinces, e. g. Tsun-kwo-fan, who
* For fuller information on the administrative machinery of China,
see Meadows' Notes on the Chinese, and his Chinese and their Rebellions,
p. 5-15.
f See T. T. Wade's Chinese Army. Canton, 1851.
THE EMPEROR. 49
ruled over Kiang-su and Cheh-kiang. There are, how-
ever, exceptions to the rule; for instance, Shan-tung,
over which there is no Viceroy. The duties of the
Viceroy are more those of general oversight and espion-
age than of active administration.
Over all is the Emperor, or “Whang-ti,” as he is
called by the Chinese. He is supposed, as we have
remarked elsewhere, to be cognizant of all that tran-
spires in the Empire; is the Supreme criminal judge,
legislator, administrator, commander-in-chief, owner
of the soil, and the sole source of office, power, and
emolument in the state. He is also Pontifex maarimus,
and appears as mediator between Heaven and his
people.* This is clearly laid down in the Chinese clas-
sics. The Divine Ruler is represented under the name
“Shang-ti,” or more frequently “Tien,” which literally
means Heaven: dynasties, and the successive Emperors,
are believed to be appointed by Heaven, and destroyed
by Heaven when they misrule. The reigning Emperor
is accordingly called the “Son of Heaven” (Sinice,
“Tien-tsze ‘’), and thus stands before the nation as the
delegate and representative of Heaven among men, and
possessing an unalienable right to rule over, not China
merely, but “Tien-hia’’—all under the skies.
Strictly speaking, the succession is not hereditary;
the Son of Heaven nominates his successor, who may
or may not be the eldest son, or a son at all. The
l * See remarks on Temple of Heaven in Peking, by Mr. Edkins, in
WOI. II.
WOL. I. & 4
50 THE COUNTRY AND ITS GOVERNMENT.
Chinese people, therefore, have no right to elect their
own magistrates, or frame their own laws, or to exercise
self-legislation in any sense whatever. Nor have they
the power of Self-taxation, or, theoretically, any method,
other than that mentioned below, of stopping the Sup-
plies or limiting the power of the Emperor. All things
belong to God; the Son of Heaven is his vicegerent
on earth; and everything is vested in him. The
Emperor, therefore, according to this theory, holds an
entirely unique position among the potentates of the
earth. There is none like him, and there cannot be two
Whang-tis. The word Emperor, as Mr. T. T. Meadows
has pointed out, does not properly represent this
monarch : * he maintains that, as we say, the “Czar
of Russia,” the “Sultan of Turkey,” or the “Pope of
Rome,” so we should say the “Whang-ti of China.”
IHe is certainly correct ; but I am afraid it is too late
to substitute this term now : the more so as the system
to which it belongs must soon be either greatly modified,
or fall before the irresistible march of true religion and
civilization.
Theoretically, the system of government is the most
perfect in the world. It predicates that the man pointed
out by Heaven should rule ; and that he must rule in
conformity with the grand old maxims of their classics;
that incapacity or wickedness precludes his right to
reign; and that prolonged famine, pestilence, or hordes
of robbers give the people a right to rebel. The
* See Commercial Reports, China and Japan, for 1868, pp. 207,208.
MACHINERY OF ADMINISTRATION. 51
machinery of administration consists of the Cabinet
Council, the Inner Council, the Six Boards, the Board
of Foreign Affairs, and the Censorate, or Court of
General Inspection over all; to which last great latitude
is allowed. There is thus a system of checks and
counter-checks, very complicated, yet effectual. And
lastly, there is the system of examinations, which is
the basis of all, by which the “heen” and the “nung,”
literally, the worthy (in a moral sense) and the talented,
are eliminated out of the immense population, and the
way opened for talent to ascend to the very pinnacle of
power. In short, it is a most extraordinary and most
excellent system; and were some beneficent Archangel
Emperor of China, it might work admirably. But, .
alas, their maxims and rules are now systematically
broken through; affording another illustration of the
apothegm, that “the best make the worst.”
From the preceding paragraphs it is clear that means
of rapid communication are essential to the due working
of the Chinese Government. Their former Emperors
saw this, and prepared the great highways and signal-
towers spoken of elsewhere ; so that opposition to
railways and telegraphs is inconsistent with the great
principles of their own theories of administration.
The present Chinese Government is thus consti-
tuted :-
The head of the administration is the EMPEROR,
now only 14 years of age; but the managing spirit is
52 THE COUNTRY AND ITS GOVERNMENT.
the Empress Dowager (first wife of the late Emperor,
not the mother of the boy sovereign).
Working in connection with them are the following
Councils and Boards:—
The KEUN-KI-CHOO, or Cabinet Council.”
Prince Koong, a Man-chu.
Wun-siang, a Man-chu.
Pan-kien, a Man-chu.
Shun-kwhe-fun, a Chinese from Soo-chow, late
viceroy of Shan-si.
Li-tse-tszan, the Emperor's Tutor, a Chinese from
Tientsin.
Toong-sieun, a Chinese from Yang-chow ; a great
scholar and poet.
Tan-ting-tsiang, a Chinese.
These Ministers see the Emperor every morning at
daybreak.
The NE-Kö, Inner Council, or, in other words, the
great Secretariat.
Tsun-kwo-fan, a Chinese from Hoo-nan; now gover-
nor of Chih-li.
Kwan-wun, a Man-chu of the White Banner; once
at Woo-chang, where he published a famous map of
China.
Wo-jen, a Mongol bannerman.
* For a full account of these departments, see Williams' Middl
Kingdom, vol. i. pp. 324-352.
COUNCILS AND BOARDS, 53.
Ria-cheng, a Chinese from Whang-hien, near Tung-
chow-foo, in Shan-tung.
Ti-hung-chang, a Chinese ; the famous general.
Jui-chang, a Mongol ; also President of the Board
of Trade.
Chen-fung-chiau, a Chinese.
The Members of the Ne-kö see the Emperor when
invited.
Tsoong-LI-YA-MUN, or the Foreign Office, is a new
office, instituted since the Treaty of Tientsin, to meet
the present exigencies.
Prince Koong is President; the other members are
Wun-siang, also President of the Board of War; Pan-
kien, also President of the Board of Revenue; Toong-
sieun; Tan-tsing-tsian ; Choong-liin, President of the
Colonial Office.
The LI-FAN-YUEN, or the Colonial Office, has charge
of Mongolia, Thibet, and Turkestan ; the President is
Choong-lung, a man very friendly to foreigners.
The HAN-LIN, or College of learned men, who super-
intend all the literary work of the Empire, consists of
SIX BoARDS.
Li-poo—The Board of Officers.
Hoo-poo—The Board of Revenue.
Li'-poo—The Board of Ceremonies.
Ding-poo-The Board of Military Affairs.
Hing-poo—The Board of Punishment.
Roong-poo—The Board of Works.
54 THE COUNTRY AND ITS GOVERNMENT.
Over all is the Censorate, a body of men selected
by the Emperor. They have a standing commission to
inspect the action of the mandarins, of all grades, in
all parts of the Empire. They are of three ranks; two
of the first position, who may be called presidents; four
of the second, who may be called vice-presidents; and
sixty-six others. They are all members of the Han-lin
College, and reside in Peking, but each has a distinct
portion of the empire allotted to him. They are allowed
great liberty in addressing the Throne.
The members of all these offices are, of course,
constantly changing by death and otherwise.
( 55 )
CHAPTER WI.
CIVILIZATION AND MEANS OF INTERCOMMUNICATION.
State of Education—Population—Monetary System—Weights and
Measures—Water Communication in North China—Water Com-
munication with the Sea viá Hai-chow—The Old Yellow River
—A River Vagary—River and Road Communications—Han River
—Imperial Highways—Cart-roads—Bridle-paths—Proposed Rail-
ways—Treaty Ports—Revision of the Treaty—Frauds of the Man-
darins—Advantages of Railways.
THE Chinese system of education is remarkable for a
heathen country. A knowledge of letters is pretty
generally diffused. Shopkeepers and their assistants
can read the Mandarin colloquial, and can keep accounts;
and many among them can also understand the WUN-LI,
the literary style, when written with simplicity. The
higher classes are proportionably better educated. The
wealthier among the agriculturists can read; but very
few among farm-labourers and the coolies know letters.
In speaking on this subject I wish to guard against a
common misconception. The Wun-li, to which I have
just referred, is their ancient literary language, and
although it remains the basis of all the Chinese dialects,
is yet a dead language, known familiarly to scholars only.
The Mandarin colloquial is the language of the people
56 CIVILIZATION.
of North China, and the Court and official language
of the whole Empire. It is also a written language,
and books written in it are very generally intelligible.
The books which form the class-books in the schools
of North China are the same as those used south of
the Yang-tze-kiang—the Four Books of Confucius and
the Five Ancient Classics, as well as the collateral books
in general use. They have also the same system of
Public Examinations as exists in the South. The
Northern men, however, do not compare favourably with
those of the South in point of scholarship ; a much
lesser proportion attaining those higher degrees which
are considered a test of learning.
There is one great omission in their educational
apparatus. They have few or no female schools. One
or two have been attempted of late years in the neigh-
bourhood of the Ports; but I have never met with one
or heard of one in the interior in all my travels; and I
am assured that in the whole of the eastern portion
of Shan-tung there exists not one.
It is extremely difficult, with our present means of
information, to arrive at anything like an exact estimate
of the population of North China. The last census
is of little avail, inasmuch as the loss of life involved
in the recent rebellions has been enormous, not only
from the numbers actually slaughtered, but from the
multitude of men, women, and children who have
perished through destitution or subsequent sickness
induced by their privations. The census of 1812 may
POPULATION. 57
guide to an approximation. According to the returns
then ordered, the population of the eight provinces was
191,400,000; and supposing the destruction was equal
to the increase of fifty years, we may gain some idea
of the numbers of the people.*
More than ninety-nine-hundredths of the population
are true Chinese; the remainder are Mohammedans of
Arabian or Persian descent, whose ancestors came to
China mainly during the Tang dynasty, A.D. 618–905,
as colonists seeking for fields of labour. These re-
ligionists have certain rights: they are permitted the
free exercise of their religion, their mosques, of Indian
fashion, being conspicuous objects in many cities. They
do not intermarry, but keep themselves quite distinct
from the Chinese ; they have, however, adopted the
Chinese costume, even to the queue. Their houses,
their outward manners, and their language are the same
as the Chinese; and, having been subject to like climatic
influences for nearly one thousand years, they are scarcely
distinguishable from the sons of Han,f as the Chinese
love to call themselves. This is another illustration
of the powerful assimilating influences of country and
contact.
The inhabitants of these provinces are stronger than
their brethren in the South, but much less refined and
less cleanly in their habits. Nor is this to be wondered
* Dr. Williams discusses this subject with great care and ability,
See vol. i. p. 206—233 of his work.
f In reference to their great Han Dynasty.
58 CIWILIZATION.
at. The climate is more severe; they have to labour
harder; and whereas in the South bathing is a perfect
luxury, in the North it requires some fortitude to
perform ablutions during the greater part of the year.
Moreover, requiring fires constantly, and having houses
less open, they are exposed to all the deteriorating influ-
ences of Smoke and dust. They are peaceable and civil
to strangers; and in all my journeys I have never
encountered anything like serious molestation, notwith-
standing I travelled unprotected ; my most formidable
weapon being a walking-stick.
The currency of the country is in a most deplorable
condition: indeed it is a standing reproach to the
vaunted civilization of China. The only coin in exist-
ence is a small copper coin (often greatly mixed and
adulterated) with a square hole in its centre, by means
of which the coins are strung together in numbers to
suit the holders. Each string is generally divided into
ten divisions of 100 each, and is called a “tiau,” which
thus nominally contains 1,000. But this is by no
means the rule: in some districts it is 996, in others
990, and so on, varying to 940. Again, in Tien-tsin a
tiau is supposed to be 1,000 “imperial cash,” as they
are called, which should equal 500 real cash ; but it
varies in three or four ways in that one city. In a full
Tien-tsin tiau there are only 488 cash; but when one
sells silver for cash he can have tiau made to order at
the rate of 430, or 440, or 450, as he wishes. Further,
at Newchwang, in Manchuria, a tiau represents 160
MONETARY SYSTEM. 59
cash according to rule ; but, further west, it rises to
165, and towards the north and east it varies from 162
to 164. In Central and Northern Manchuria the tiau
reverts to the Tien-tsin numbers of only 500 cash per
tiau, but retains all the usual district variations. In
Mongolia it varies from 480 up to 760, and sometimes to
900. In that district, and outside the great wall gene-
rally, another element is introduced—viz., iron cash—
which “Hien-fung,” the last Emperor, introduced to
fill his exchequer. They really go for nothing, but are
used to fill up the strings; so that, when one buys cash
or prices articles, he has to ask how many iron cash are
in the tiau.
In Peking the currency is totally different. The cash
or coins used there are larger than elsewhere, and are
not used in any other part of the kingdom : the names
are retained, but the value is very different. One Peking
coin is called 20 cash, and, consequently, 10 are
reckoned as 200, and so on. A tiau there is under-
stood to represent 50 Peking cash, which should stand
for 1,000 ordinary cash; but when counted one finds
he has only 49. This is of a piece with all the Peking
weights and measures, which are invariably magnified.
There is a deal of pride as well as falsehood in this
practice. A provincial man visits the capital and hears
that his friend has an income of, Say, 5,000,000 cash ;
another has, say, 10,000 bushels of grain. These ap-
pear immense sums to the uninitiated, but in reality
only a very moderate amount when the truth is known.
60 CIVILIZATION.
But not only does the tiau of cash vary, the weight
for silver and gold varies all over the country. For
instance, the weight at Che-foo is called the Tsau-ping,
and is that which is commonly used at the seaports, on
the coast of Shan-tung. But it differs from that used
at Whang-hien, not sixty miles away, by five mace,
eight fun, or candareens. This differs from other places,
and so on all over China. There are eight different
“taels” in constant use, and when one buys or sells, the
particular tael requires to be specified. These taels,
which approximate in weight to our oz., are the Law-
kwang-ping ; the Kwang-ping; Koo-ping, or imperial
tael; Hai-kwan-ping, or Custom-house tael, used in
the Customs’ business; Tsau-ping; Koong-fah-ping;
Pau-SOO-pan Kwang-ping; Ching-ping, or Shih-ping ;
the Ur-liang-ping.
These taels are used over the whole Empire, and
their comparative value is given in the following table,
taking the Tsau-ping as the standard:—

OVER. UNDER.
Tael. | Mace. dº. Tael. Mace. dº.
Tsau-ping................................... 100 0 0
Law-kwang-ping.................... 104 O 0
Kwang-ping........................….] … . . . … 96 0 0
Koo-ping ................................... | 102 0 0
Hai-kwan-ping........................ 106 4 0%
Koong-fah-ping .................... |Uncertain.
Ur-liang-ping ......................... ~ || “... | “. 96 () 0
Pau-SOO-pan Kwan ............... Uncertain.
Ching-ping … Uncertain.
* Also 104, according as the Tau-tai may decide.
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 61
Nor is this all. Each great trading centre has a
“ tael” or weight of its own, represented in the accom-
panying table :-
OVER. | UNDER.
Tael. | Mace, a...] Tael. Mace |G:.
SHAN-TUNG.
Chefoo TsAU-PING ............... 100 0 0.
Chang-i 103 || 8 0
Ching-kow .............................. 100 I 0
Chow-tswun.............................. 102 6 0
Kin-kia-kow..............................] ..... . . . ..... 99 6 O
Kyau-chow .......... tº -- - - - - - - ********** | ***** | ***** | ***** 99 O 0
Lai-chow ...............…. 102 7 0
Lai-yang … lO5 0 0
Li-tsin 102 4 0
Ning-hai-chow.........................] ..... . ..., | ..... 96 8 0
Pu-tai 101 5 0
Shu-kwang .............................. 101 6 8
Ta-shan 103 7 0
Toong-chang-foo.................... 100 8 0
Tsi-nan-foo .............................. 100 4 0
Tsing-kiang-poo .................... 100 l 0
Tung-chow-foo.........................] ..... . ..... . ..... 99 4 O
Wei-hien ................................... 100 8 0 *
Whang-hien.............................] ..... . ..... ..... 9.4 4 O
Wun-tung................................... 102 O 0
Yong-ching, two taels one | i. ; §
Tsau-ping.….. 100 0 O
Peking … * a e s is a º e s e º e º s ge 98 0 O
Tien-tsin, two taels ............... | * * * * - I sº tº º e I e º sº s { ; º º
Port of New-chwang ..........] ..... ..... ..... 98 5 O
MANCHURIA.
Foo-chow .....…..................] ... . . . . 99 4 ()
Rai-chow ...................................] ..... . . . … 99 O O
Kin-chow, W. ......................... 100 5 0
Kin-chow, S. .........................] ..... . . . . 99 6 0
Hai-chow ….] ..... . . . .”. 98 8 4.
Liau-yang…] … . . . .” 99 2 0.
New-chwang..............................] ..... . . . . 98 5 O
Pi—tze-woa..............…..] ... . . . . 97 6 0
Shin-Yang (Moukden) .....] ..... . ..... . ..... 98 5 0
Siu Yen * * * * * : * * * * * : * * * * * 99 3 O


62 MEANS OF INTERCOMMUNICATION.
This state of the currency is very confusing to the
foreign trader or traveller. What with adulterated cash,
the difference of numbers in tiau, unequal weights for
precious metals at every few miles, difference in
touch, and the constant variation in price—to-day a
tael in a specified district bringing 1,400 cash, to-
morrow less or more—the reader can have but a feeble
conception of the difficulties caused by Chinese cur-
rency. Nor is the currency more complicated than the
weights and measures. These present endless varia-
tions; but there is no need here to enter into details.
Suffice it to say, that a farmer leaving his native dis-
trict—say a distance of fifty miles—is utterly bewildered,
and has to engage a man to help him in his trans-
actions. There is a purpose in this confusion : large
buyers and money-changers designedly make such regu-
lations for their own profit.*
The water communication in the south of Shan-tung
is naturally good. There is a series of lakes, as depicted
on the map, some of them of considerable extent, all
the way from Nan-wang, latitude 35° 55', longitude
116° 30', down to the Yang-tzi-kiang river. These are
connected together by streams of greater or lesser
volume, and so form a natural water-course all that
distance. This natural conformation of the country
was taken advantage of by the native engineer of the
Grand Canal, and the canal merely follows the course
thus marked out for it. He deepened the channels of
* See Dr. Williams on this topic also, vol. i. p. 234 of his work.
WATER COMMUNICATION. 63
the shallow streams, strengthened their banks all along
where needful, often in a most elaborate and solid
manner, formed sluices where the current was too strong,
and provided places for the water to flow over when
the rivers were too full. And in order to ensure the
Safety and punctuality of the grain junks supplying the
capital, he continued the canal along the edges of the
lakes, so that the junks might be able to proceed on
their course in almost all weathers. These portions of
the canal are the least navigable at present, being all
out of repair and often quite dry. They are, however,
taken advantage of as far as possible, inasmuch as the
canal junkmen have no desire to tempt the uncertain
lakes. Hence it is that the traveller often finds him-
self in a long, narrow strip of shallow water, on the
edge of a great inland Sea, with a wall of stones, fre-
quently in a most dilapidated state, between him and
the roaring waters. This Grand Canal proved itself
of immense value in former times, and could easily be
put into a most efficient condition. The summit level
of the canal is at the debouchement of the Ta-wan-ho
River. Here part of the waters run N.W. and part
S.E. This still continues, but the greater portion
runs S.E. Sufficient, however, goes N.W. to render
the canal navigable for small boats to the Yellow River.
Mr. Ney Elias and party passed this way to the junc-
tion of the Yellow River, so that the canal may be said
to become fit for use at that point.
Visiting this district in 1865 we came by boat from
64 MEANS OF INTERCOMMUNICATION.
Tien-tsin to a large mart called Lin-tsing-chow.
Here the canal became unnavigable, owing to the
want of water, and we took carts to the Yellow
River, touching the banks of the canal at many
points, and finding it in pools here and there. At the
junction the water is of least depth, there being on an
average about two feet of water, and ten to twenty feet
of mud; but at floods large boats pass and repass, and
during our last journey we saw a Tien-tsin lorcha on
one of the lakes. This vessel had come up the new
Yellow River, entered the canal, and sailed down to the
lakes. From Tsi-ning-chow (also spelt Chi-ning-chow)
it is navigable at all seasons for good-sized junks on to
Chin-kiang. On our last journey we joined the canal
at Nan-yang, a large distributing centre, and sailed partly
on canal, partly on lakes, to Chi-shan-kow. Here we
again entered the canal, and from Chi-shan-kow on to
within a few miles on the north-west side of Yang-kia-
chwang, the canal is a wide, deep stream, with one or
two shallows, but only such as could be easily obviated.
Near this place it suddenly narrows, becomes shallow,
and runs at not less than four or five knots an hour.
Passing on, it again widens and deepens, but is not so
wide nor grand as above Yang-kia-chwang; still it con-
tinues a good navigable water-way to Chin-kiang. Above
Yang-kia-chwang, excluding the few shallows, it ranged
from five to sixteen feet deep at the time we passed over
it; and the average depth appeared to be about eight
feet.
THE GRAND CANAL. 65
No one can pass over this route without being struck
with the advantages the canal offers for easy and cheap
communication. A little thought and labour expended
on it would easily re-open it to commerce, and make it
perfectly navigable for flat-bottomed steamers. These
could take the lakes, and so render it unnecessary to
repair the side-cuttings. The only parts requiring
attention, therefore, would be the few shallows and the
portion immediately below the junction with the Yellow
River. Steam-dredges could easily accomplish this, and
there is plenty of cheap and good coal at various
points on the canal. This done, we should have water
communication with all the great inland markets in the
south of Shan-tung, and a portion of Ngan-whei.
Such steamers could call at the towns on the Kao-yew-
hu lake, the great mart of Tsing-kiang-pu, the towns
on the other lakes, the distributing town of Nan-yang,
the great cities of Tsi-ning-chow and Toong-chang-foo,
pass into the Yellow River, call at Tsi-nan-foo, the
capital of Shan-tung, and Li-tsing, and, if need be, go
on to Tien-tsin. Thus, there could easily be an inland
water communication opened between Shanghai and
Tien-tsin, and all the discomfort and danger of the
sea voyage obviated. If preferred, that portion of the
canal north-west of the new Yellow River to Lin-tsing-
chow could also be re-opened. In floods if is even now .
passable. By this way another route could also be
opened to Tien-tsin.
There are two water-ways leading from the Grand
WOL. I. 5
66 MEANS OF INTERCOMMUNICATION.
Canal to Hai-chow and the sea. The first leaves
the canal about 50 li south-east of Sui-chow-hien, and
the other branches off at a village called Shwang-tsah,
30 li N.W. of Tsing-kiang-pu. These two meet
and form the canal called the Yen-ho, which passes
about 5 li to the north of Wang-kia-ying-tze. Here
the Yen-ho is about 35 yards broad, and runs with a
slow current towards the sea. It is navigable for third
and fourth class junks all the year round, and for good
large junks during the floods. The traffic which used to
go by the old Yellow River now takes this route, and
is not inconsiderable. But although it is thus con-
nected with the Grand Canal, junks cannot pass from
this river into it, owing to the want of water; and only
during the flood seasons is there any proper water com-
munication. The village of Yen-ho, north of Wang-kia-
ying-tze, appears to be the terminus; but this state of
affairs could easily be remedied, and the way opened up.
This done, foreign ships might come to Ching-kow,
which is the port of Hai-chow, and discharge their
cargoes, and thus have them imported into Shan-tung
at a much less expense than vià Chin-kiang. Ching-
kow is said to have a good harbour.
The Old Yellow River has been dry for at least
twelve years, and its bed, for the most part, is under
cultivation. Its old course crossed the Grand Canal at
Yang-kia-chwang, and then proceeded east by north to
the Yellow Sea. When we passed it was dry, but there
were thousands of workmen employed on its banks,
THE YELLOW RIWER. 67
apparently with the purpose of re-opening it from
this point to the Sea. Going to Wang-kia-ying-tze
from Tsing-kiang-pu, we again found workmen deepen-
ing its old channel, which at this point, according to
Mr. Elias, is 551 yards, and its greatest depth never
more than 18 inches. We did not learn the design of
all these excavations, but the intention seems to be as we
have hinted; the more so as we find that, after the
heavy summer rains, the water in this dry bed flows for
several days towards the sea, with a depth varying from
a few inches to several feet. It is hopeful to find even
the smallest public work attempted in this half-dead
Empire.
One thing puzzled me for a long time—viz., the
great difference in the volume of water in the Yellow
River in Shan-si, and as it flows through Shan-tung,
where it is so much smaller. We thought of absorption,
as it passed lazily through lagoons, but could not satisfy
our own minds as to the cause. Now, however, a hint
from Mr. Ney Elias has put us on the right track. He
mentions that he found boatmen who had come into the
Yellow River from the great lake called Hong-tse-hu, in
the north-east corner of Ngan-whei. They had pro-
ceeded up the rivers Whai-ho, Sha-ho, and Ku-lu-ho,
and joined the Yellow River above Kai-fung-foo. This
explains everything. It shows that the Yellow River
has formed a connection with the Ku-lu-ho ; and, more-
over, also shows that the Yellow River has now two
courses to the sea—viz., (a) that through Shan-tung,
6S MEANS OF INTERCOMIMIUNICATION.
and (b) that vià Hong-tsze-hu lake and the Grand
Canal. In this connection, I may also express my
persuasion that there is some water communication
between the Wei-ho Canal,—which joins the Grand
Canal at Lin-ching-chow, and the Yellow River; for I
met boats on the upper Grand Canal bound for the JLoong-
whang-miau and other places on the Yellow River, which
they could not reach (as far as I know) but by the
Wei-ho. The Yellow River may, therefore, have even
this third outlet to the sea—viz., vià Tien-tsin. At
all events, this could easily be effected, and thus the
water communication in this region be greatly im-
proved.
In view of the facilities of the Grand Canal, the
Yen-ho Canal to Hai-chow and the sea, the Yellow
River with its branches through Ho-nan, Ngan-whei
and Shan-tung, and its probable connection with the
Wei-ho and the Yün-ho to Tien-tsin ; in view also of
the canals which diverge from that city to Peking, Pau-
ting-foo, Hok-kien-foo, &c., the water communication in
North China could be made extremely easy and cheap,
were there energy to set about repairing and improving
the old courses.
Reverting to the Yellow River, especially in re-
ference to its course in the west, I may remark that in
other journeys we crossed it at two different places,
one latitude 34° 49', longitude 110° 40'; the other
latitude 34° 51, longitude 112° 20'. We travelled
parallel to its banks for three successive days, and
THE YELLOW RIVER, 69
made all the observations and inquiries we could. At
the first place it was comparatively narrow—not more
than four hundred yards across, and the current was
very strong ; the other place was a sort of gorge,
and the current still stronger. On our way along
its banks we observed it sometimes spreading out into
a broad stream, with currents here and there, as the
case might be, and at other times compressed into
a fine, majestic, rapid-flowing river. We saw a great
many huge, flat-bottomed boats laden with coal, from
the north of Shan-si–some from places about two
hundred miles distant — floating on its waters; they
came down the stream at the rate of sixty miles per
diem, but only averaged thirteen or fourteen on their
upward course. One Chinese traveller affirmed that it
was navigable all the way round to Ning-hia-foo, latitude
39°, longitude 106°, and even further; while others
affirmed that it was navigable with ease and safety only
in certain parts of its course. My own impression is
that the latter statement is the correct one ; that it
winds its way alternately in rapids and shallows, and
that there are several portions where navigation is
difficult. As far as relates to the rapidity of the current,
I think a paddle-wheel steamer, or a steamer with a
strong stern paddle, could easily make its way up :
surely there can be no shallows beyond the power of
modern engineering to deepen. One of the Jesuits
speaks of a “cataract,” but I am not sure what he
means: I could hear of none, in the sense of a great
70 MEANS OF INTERCOMMUNICATION.
fall over a precipice, though there may be such. All
the obstruction of this nature that I could hear of was
a gorge with three mouths, between Ho-nan-foo and
Kai-fung-foo. The mouths were called respectively
“god’s Mouth,” “Man’s Mouth,” and the “Devil's
Mouth; ” and we were informed that it was quite safe
if you could guide your boat through “god's Mouth ; ”
that the passage through “Man’s Mouth '' was some-
what doubtful; but if you were carried into the “Devil's
Mouth '' it was certain destruction. Giving off a por-
tion of its waters, as before described, somewhere about
Rai-fung-foo, the main body of the river flows a short
distance eastward; then it leaves its old bed, spreads
out into a sort of lake, and takes a northward course,
flowing past Tsau-chow-foo on to the Grand Canal,
where it takes possession of the bed of the river called
Ta-tsing-ho, and through this channel pours itself into
the sea. In taking possession of this river it burst its
banks, flooded large portions of country, carried away
hundreds of villages, and left strong bridges standing
in the centre of the stream ; and up to the present time
it often deviates from its course. In 1867, it broke
out at Lu-kow and deluged four hundred Square miles
of country. From Toong-chang-foo it flows within five
miles of Tsi-nan-foo, past Tsi-yang-hien, Chi-tung-hien,
Pu-tai, Li-tsin, a great place for junks, and then
through Tieh-mun-kwan to the sea. It often changes
its debouche. In 1866 its main mouth was due east ;
in 1868 that was closed, and one towards the north
THE HAN-KIANG. 71
was opened as an outlet. The bar at low water has
usually from two to four feet of water. Tieh-mun-kwan
is the port, which is now 120 li from the sea, and 450
li from Tsi-nan-foo, the capital of the province.
There are, therefore, many obstacles to the use of
steam on the river; and it is quite possible that owing
to them, and especially to the great bend which it makes,
it may be found more profitable to transport goods into
the N.W. districts from Tien-tsin by rail.
The river next in importance to the Yellow River is
the Han-kiang or the Han River, which flows into the
Yang-tsze-kiang at the city of Hankow, or the Mouth
of the Han. This river rises in the south-western
portion of Shen-si, and makes a zigzag course through
the South of that province and the centre of Hu-peh.
It is wide and deep, a great broad river, more like a
principal than a tributary, and is navigable for good-
sized boats as far as Hing-ngan-foo, latitude 32° 30',
and longitude 110°, while junks can easily reach Yun-
yang-foo, latitude 33°, longitude 111° 20'. It receives
several important tributaries, such as the river Tan-ho,
which falls into it about latitude 32° 30', longitude 112°,
and the Pih-ho river, both of which are navigable for a
long distance. From time immemorial it has been one
of the great water roads of China, and is repeatedly
referred to in Chinese annals. In consequence of this
there are a number of famous cities and large distri-
buting towns on either bank, such as the cities of Fan-
chung, Seang-yang, E-ching, besides those mentioned
72 MEANS OF INTERCOMMUNICATION.
above. By means of this river and its affluents,
Hankow supplies Hu-peh, Ho-nan, and Shen-si with
foreign commodities, and receives their produce.* At
Si-ngan-foo we found goods from Hankow ; and also
met Chinese travellers from Shanghai, who had come by
steamer to Hankow, thence by boat to a place called
Loong-kui-tsai, from which there is a mule-road of four
or five days’ journey to that city. This shows that there
is no hope of Tien-tsin competing with Hankow in
supplying this part of China. We fully intended to
return to Chefoo by this route, but circumstances led
us to prefer the road vid Ho-nan, in the hope of visiting
Kai-fung-foo. Smaller rivers we shall describe in loco.
The northern provinces are well provided with good
roads, which were made by early Emperors, and have
been kept in good or bad repair according to the vigour
or slackness of the Government. They radiate from the
capital in all directions. One goes eastward through
Yoong-ping-foo, Shan-hai-kwan, King-chow-foo, Mouk-
den, Kirin, Ning-gu-ta, on to the very extremity of the
continent, and has a good cart-road to Poissiet, the Rus-
sian port on the east coast of Asia. Near Moukden
this road branches off to the capital of Corea. Another
great road goes north-east through Ku-pi-kow, on to
Ze-hol, and thence to Parin-hotun and Poro-hotun,
about latitude 45°, and I know not how much further
northwards. A third goes westward through the Nan-
* See Mr. Wylie's notes on the Han River in the Foochow
Missionary Recorder,
MAIN ROADS. 73
kow pass, Siuen-hwa-foo, and Kal-gan, or Sinicé, Chang-
kia-kow, where it bifurcates; one branch going north
by west to Dolonor, and the other going on to Urga,
and Europe. A fourth goes south-west through Pau-
ting-foo, Ching-ting-foo, to Tai-yuen-foo; thence South
through Shan-si to Toong-kwan, the fortress at the
southerly bend of the Yellow River. From this place
it goes west past Si-ngan-foo, beyond which city it
divides into two branches, one going west by north to
Ran-suh and Thibet, and the other through SZ-chuen
on to Siam. Another road runs nearly due south
through Pau-ting-foo, Hok-kien-foo, Tuh-chow, Toong-
chang-foo, Sieu-chow, Hu-chin, latitude 33° 10', longi-
tude 117° 16' east, where it divides; one branch going
to Nan-king and the other to Nan-chang-foo, where
passengers embark for Canton. A sixth leaves the road
to Shan-si at Ching-ting-foo; proceeds southwards,
vid We-kyun-foo, to Kai-foong-foo; thence to the great
distributing city of Fan-chung on the Han River, where
travellers can hire boats which will take them by water
all the way to Canton. This is the western Canton
route. And there is yet another great road which
leaves the southerly road at Tuh-chow (also spelt Ti-
chow), and leads south-east through Shan-tung, giving
off a branch which leads to Chefoo, now a good cart-
road.
These roads are carried in as direct a line as
possible to their respective destinations. They are
supplied with excellent bridges, some of them really
74 MEANS OF INTERCOMIMUNICATION.
magnificent, having twenty, thirty, or forty arches.
Towards the west of Peking and in Shan-si the bridges
are often of marble, and the balustrades finely orna-
mented by innumerable figures of animals, such as
lions, tigers, dogs, monkeys. When the rivers are very
wide, the roads are well supplied with ferries, with huge
boats, capable of taking three or four carts at one time.
In the province of Chih-li and parts of Ho-nan and Sham-
tung the highways are perfectly level, and you can travel
at the rate of thirty-five to forty miles a day. In Shan-
si and the hilly districts progress is slower. Valleys
and ravines are generally chosen when these do not
diverge too far from the direct line; but where necessary,
roads are cut through rocks, miles of the way having
causeways of huge blocks of granite, and the road being
carried right over high ranges of mountains. In the
Shan-si passes and several other places, the labour
expended is stupendous, quite in keeping with the other
huge undertakings in this Empire, such as the Grand
Canal and the Great Wall. These roads are usually
from seventy to eighty feet broad in the plains, and are
generally planted on each side with rows of fine trees,
so that they look like some of the fine roads in England
and on the continent of Europe, and in some places like
grand avenues. Every few li there are guard-houses
where soldiers used to be stationed, who were ready to
accompany travellers during night to protect them from
danger ; and every ten li, or three and one-third
miles, there are huge well-built signal-towers on which
ACCOMMODATIONS ON THE MAIN ROADS. 75
fires were lit at night, and dense columns of smoke from
wolf-dung raised in the day-time when any intelligence
of importance had to be telegraphed. All along these
highways are numerous and well-supplied inns for tra-
vellers; and in addition large inns for the Emperor or
important officials, also places where post-horses are
kept always in readiness, and where couriers can obtain
fresh steeds. In addition to the great cities which
appear on the maps, there are large villages every ten li
on the main highways; some of them very important
and the centres of much trade. :
Few things impress the traveller more with the large-
mindedness, ability, vigilance, and vigour of the former
Emperors and the greatness of the Empire, than these
roads; we do not wonder at the touches of exaggeration
which mark the pages of Marco Polo and the Jesuit
fathers, for the bridges, cuttings, and the fine cities
then in their glory would form a powerful contrast to
the roads and works in their native countries. And
perhaps nothing so painfully demonstrates the decadence
and utter emasculation of the present rulers of China
than the wretched condition of many portions of these
fine roads, which could be repaired by the expenditure
of a little thought and a very little money.
Besides these great highways, there are innumerable
other roads intersecting the country in all directions,
and forming a perfect network; and these not simply
foot-paths, but good roads traversed by hundreds of
vehicles every day; so that wherever you wish to go
76 . MEANS OF INTERCOMMUNICATION.
you can have almost always a cart-road direct to the
place. Many of these minor roads are also supplied
with signal-towers, inns, and every convenience for
travelling.
In the hilly districts of Shan-tung, Shan-si, &c.,
there are innumerable bridle-paths which are used by
pack-mules, asses, and horses. They are also provided
with inns, but of an inferior order.
The country is admirably adapted for railways.
The greater part is a plain, and when mountains branch
inwards there are generally valleys, often very wide and
fertile, through which lines could be carried. The great
highways I have just been describing form the best
guides, both physically and economically, in reference
to the most feasible lines. They form the most direct
routes to the great emporiums of trade, with the fewest
possible natural obstructions. Their course lies also
through the most populous districts; either it was so
Originally, or they have attracted people by the facility of
communication. Lines of railway, therefore, could be laid
parallel to them all. But as such a network of railways
is out of the question at present, I can only venture to
Suggest two great trunk lines, one running from Peking
South to Canton, with a branch to Shanghai; and another
running east and west from some harbour on the north
bank of the Yang-tsze-kiang, available for ships of large
tonnage, say somewhere opposite Chin-kiang; and from
this carried through Kiang-su, western Shan-tung,
Chih-li, Shan-si, and on to Shem-si, with a view, ulti-
RAILWAYS SUGGESTED–STEAMSHIPS USED. 77
mately, of being carried through Central Asia to Europe
—an undertaking not much more formidable than the
great Pacific line in America now completed.
It would be well to begin with the first for many
reasons, but more especially because in this case advan-
tage could be taken of the banks of the Grand Canal for
a portion of the way; and as this lies almost directly
through a country perfectly level, and the canal banks
are Government property, there would be no bargaining
with private individuals ; no graveyards to desecrate,
and, in short, the least violent change possible. I
have no fear of the junk-men who still remain on the
canal rising against such an undertaking. Compara-
tively few now, they would soon find employment in
the construction of the works needed for this enterprise,
and they are not strangers to the kind of labour which
would be required. In reference to them, and the
muleteers and carriers of all descriptions, I am con-
fident that the lateral traffic which would immediately
spring up in connection with such lines would soon
engage all their resources, and create a business which
would astonish them. And I base my belief upon
personal observation of the spirit of the people, confirmed
by what has transpired in reference to steam-vessels.
These have been rapidly taken advantage of, not only by
the mercantile classes, but even by the literati, who
are so difficult to move : witness the numbers of scho-
lars brought from the south to Tien-tsin for the exami-
nations in Peking; also the numbers of mandarins, who
78 MEANS OF INTERCOMMUNICATION.
now use the steamers. At the two last great examina-
tions at Peking the literati of Foo-chow actually char-
tered a steamer to take them there and back—showing
that when their convenience requires it they can pocket
their prejudice. Moreover, the fame of steam-ships
has spread all over the country; everybody speaks of
their safety and rapidity, so that railways would soon
also command their approbation. I see therefore no
great difficulty in the introduction of railways into
China. The graveyard difficulty has been exagge-
rated; it is formidable only near large towns, and
could easily be avoided; or where unavoidable, a little
extra money, or an Imperial tablet, would soon allay the
clamour.
No one who has thought carefully over the subject
ever contemplates the indefinite multiplication of Treaty
ports and Consulates in China. The impracticability of
the proposal has been clearly shown in an able article in
the Consular Gazette dated July 15, 1869; and yet every
one sees the importance of this vast country, with great
resources all but untouched, being thoroughly opened
up. How, then, can the problem be solved 2 By the
introduction of railways and the adoption of a system of
passports. This would secure all that is necessary for
the development of the country, obviate the necessity of
minor agencies by large firms, and entail little or no
expense on the part of foreign Governments. The
railways would of course require to be managed at first
and for long by foreigners; but that might be done by
OPINIONS OF SIR RUTHERFORD ALCOCK. 79
the creation of another service, such as the Imperial
Customs, and thus would in no way oppose, but rather
be subservient and a source of strength to the native
Government.
I sympathize with the published opinions of H. E.
Sir Rutherford Alcock, H.M. Minister, that the Treaty
should be revised impartially : that we should hear
what the Chinese have to say, as well as our own
countrymen ; but I humbly think we ought never to
lose sight of the speciality of the case as regards the
Chinese. They are in a state of transition, or rather
differentiation; new thoughts and new ideas, and new
means of warfare, have got abroad among them, fer-
menting and exciting their minds. Year by year this
ferment is increasing, and to arrest its course is as
impossible as it is undesirable. The old paths will not
now do ; China can never again be governed in the old
way. The country is too large, and foreign ideas have
made far too great progress for that. New channels
must be provided for the new ideas: new means
must be adopted to meet the emergency which has
arisen, else there will be confusion worse confounded.
China is like a sick man under a course of medicine;
having put him in this condition, we must not leave
him alone, far less trust him to his own devices, for
that would prove his ruin. We must take him in hand,
point out the proper courses; and, as far as possible,
induce him to follow them, until we have set him on
his feet again in restored health and fresh vigour, quali-
80 MEANS OF INTERCOMMUNICATION.
fied to start on a new and glorious career. I do not
despair of the Chinese being able to rise again from
their prostration, or even of the present Government
being able to purify and re-organize the country; but
new means must be adopted. In the present position
of Chima nothing is so likely to do her real and per-
manent good as the introduction of railways. More-
over, it appears indispensable to the Government of the
country. Unless there be some means provided of
rapidly concentrating troops at any given point, I do
not see how permanent peace and security can be
established in this country. Steam or anarchy ap-
pears to me the only alternative now left to the Chinese
people.
I am well aware of the antipathy of the Mandarins
and Literati to railways and telegraphs. Such means
of communication would place them under the eye of the
Emperor, and so would effectually prevent gigantic
frauds on the exchequer, and the still more abominable
system of bribes and “squeezes'’ which exists all over
the country. For instance, a certain official, at a certain
place, a few years ago, built a wall over the hills behind
the town, extending some forty li, or twelve miles, for
the defence of the place against rebel forces. To defray
the cost of this work, he levied a very heavy tax on
the inhabitants, and charged the public revenue with
an enormous sum. Mark the knavery of this In
the first place, it would require I know not how many
thousands of soldiers to defend such an extent of
CUNNING SCHEME OF AN OFFICIAL. 81
rampart. Again, a wall one-sixth of the extent would
have been much more effectual, inasmuch as this length
would have reached from beach to beach. Then the
wall itself is a perfect farce; a fox could clear it at
a spring throughout the greater portion of its circuit,
and a man with a stout cudgel could bring it down, even
where it is strongest. The truth is, there was no need
for a wall at all. The town is naturally of easy defence,
and one fort at each of the leading passes would have
been more than sufficient to protect the place against all
the hordes of China. But it was a “happy thought”
to fill his pockets, and the chance was not to be lost.
Nor was this all. He induced the British authorities
to land two hundred men, with field-pieces, to protect
the place, on a threatened attack. These men remained
on shore about two weeks, and he appears to have repre-
sented them as in his pay; for, several months after-
wards, there was a general burst of merriment in the
town, and, on inquiry, we found that the Governor of
the province had ordered this official to send his foreign
contingent to the capital, as the rebels had now left his
neighbourhood.
A system of railways and telegraphs would preclude
the possibility of such a deception, and it is clear
that these officials see this, and, therefore, are opposed
to all such schemes. But are they to be abandoned on
that account 2 On the contrary, such opposition only
affords an additional and most powerful argument in
their favour.
WOL. I. 6
82 MEANS OF INTERCOMMUNICATION.
The apologists of stagnation and retrogression say
that the Chinese are not prepared for such changes, and
predict all manner of evil consequences. I have seen
as much of the country as any of these alarmists, and
maintain that the people are not only prepared for
railways, but that they would no more disorganize
Chinese society than they did that of England or
France or Belgium; for it is marvellous how soon men
get accustomed to changes which are for their benefit.
In the first instance, immense numbers would find
employment and good wages on the construction of the
works. The traffic would gradually, as the rails were
laid down, assimilate itself to the habits of the people ;
mines and new sources of industry would be brought
into operation. The agricultural resources would be
greatly developed, and commerce in all its branches
would receive a powerful impulse. The increased lateral
traffic would absorb the present carrying trade. Rail-
ways would bring the whole Empire under the control
of the central Government, put an end to rebellions,
would place commerce on a secure basis, equalize the
administration of justice, modify those famines which
so often threaten and frequently paralyse large portions
of the Empire; moreover, they would provide means
for the diffusion of knowledge. They would introduce a
new element of life and activity among the people, stir
up dormant energies, widen the sphere of observation,
develop new views, evolve new wants, create new busi-
ness, and destroy obstructive prejudices. They would
PROSPECTIVE BENEFITS OF RAILWAYS. 83
increase the intercourse and harmony between Euro-
peans and Chinese, bringing buyers and sellers face to
face. They would place the transit duties—that source
of so much mischief—on a satisfactory footing; and,
in short, would, in a thousand ways, promote the
advancement and happiness of the people.
( 84 )
CHAPTER VII.
PROVINCE OF SHAN-TUNG.
Area and Population—Surface—Mountain Ranges—Lakes—Seaports—
Chee-foo —Wei-hai–Wei-shih-tan— Kin-kia-kow—Climate—Soil
—Trees—Shrubs—Zoology—Cities—Industries—Cereal Produce,
&c.—Vegetables—Fruits—Mines and Mining—Coal—Iron—Gold
—Galena—Copper—Precious Stones—Marble, &c.—Sulphur-
Glass–Cotton, Woollen, and Silk Manufactures—Other Industries
—Festivals and Customs.
THE province of Shan-tung is bounded on the north
by the Gulf of Pe-chih-li; on the south by the pro-
vinces of Kiang-su and Honan ; on the east by the
Yellow Sea: and on the west by the province of Chih-
li. It lies between 35° and 37° 30' N. lat., and 115° 30'
and 122° E. long. The area contains 65,104 Square
miles, and the present population is estimated to be
about 30,000,000.
The surface may be regarded under three distinct
aspects—plains on the north-west, which have been
recovered from the sea; mountains in the centre and
east; fine alluvial plains in the south and west—
features which obviously indicate that, at one time, the
MOUNTAIN RANGES. 85
bulk of Shan-tung was an island. The mountain-ranges
run north and south, with a tendency to north-east
by South-west, so much so, that the promontory may
be said to consist of a series of hills and fertile valleys
lying in these directions. There are, however, marked
exceptions to this general rule, especially in the centre
of the province, where there are two important ranges
trending south-east and north-west. The highest
mountains lie on the north of the city of Tai-ngan-
foo. Here the scenery is extremely grand, mountains
crowning mountains, ranges beyond ranges in grandeur
magnificent. The highest peak has not been measured:
it is called the Tai-shan, and has been famous in Chinese
history for more than four thousand years, and to the
present day is the scene of annual pilgrimages. The
mountains next in importance are the Lau-shan, lat.
36° 5' to 36° 30', long. 120° 10' to 120° 45'. Several
of them reach a great elevation : one on the north-
east attains a height of 3,580 feet, another 3,450 feet,
and several have an elevation of from 2,000 to 2,500
feet. The range third in importance is that of Mount
Elias, called by the natives Fun-tse-shan, or the Flour
Mountain, from the white marble which its slopes expose
to view. This range extends eighteen miles, north and
south, and attains a height of from 1,500 to 2,430 feet.
A fourth range, of some importance, runs South-west by
north-east alongside the great highway between Chu-
ching and Ku-chow, and then turns nearly due south-
east. The mountains are called the Shang-ye-shan,
86 PROVINCE OF SHAN-TUNG.
and have several long and lofty caves. A fifth range
is called the Chiau-woo-shan. It lies on the north
of Hai-yang, and extends for twelve miles north-east
by south-west. There are, further, two ranges on the
extreme east of the promontory—one due south of
Wei-hai-wei, where the hills reach the elevation of
1,600 feet; and the other between that city and Yung-
chung, where they reach 1,860 feet. -
Besides these, there are various mountain masses
whose peaks are seen far and near. Chief among them
stands the Kui-tsze-shan, or the Saw-tooth Hills, near
Tau-tswun, between Hai-yang and Che-foo. The highest
peak here attains the altitude of 2,900. Next to this is
Yeh-Shan, called by the natives Ai-shan, from a peculiar
kind of fragrant grass, perhaps a species of Andropogon,
which grows on it in profusion, and which is twisted
into ropes and burned in their houses to drive away mos-
quitoes and other insects. This peak reaches the height
of 2,065 feet, and is a mark for the sailors in the Gulf.
The mountains in the neighbourhood of Mung-
yin-hien are famous for their altitude and variety, but
have not yet been measured. There are, also, several
hills in the south of the province which are famous
in history, and which are noticed in my journey to
the country of Confucius. Most conspicuous among
them is the Yi-shan, south-east of Tsiu-hien and Ni-
shan, where Confucius is said to have been born.
The two ranges in the centre of the province, which
run east by south and west by north, and lie parallel
LAKES.–RIVERS. 87
to the Great Imperial highway, are not remarkable for
their height. Their peaks are extremely jagged, and
at Some points reach a considerable elevation, as the
Hoong-shan hills north of Mung-yin-hien, and the
Liang-shan hill, one of the Poei-in-shan range.
There are several lakes in Shan-tung, viz. the Nan-
Shang-hu ; the Hi-shang-hu ; the Sho-shang-hu, on the
Grand Canal; the Tsing-shui-hu, north of Tsing-chow-
foo; the Pi-mo-hu, north of Kyau-chow; the Ma-ta-hu,
north of the Po-shan valley; and a small lake south of
Wun-tun-hien, on the east of the promontory. The
first three are the most important, and yield great
quantities of fish, of many varieties.
Excepting the Yellow River, there are no large rivers
in Shan-tung. Those worthy of note are the Wei-ho,
which rises near Mo-ling-kwan, flows east by south to
Chu-ching, then turns northward, flows past Chang-yi,
and falls into the Gulf of Pe-chih-li; the Yi-ho, which
rises near Mung-yin-hien, flows past Yi-chow, and falls
into a lake which lies north of the Grand Canal; and
the Ta-wan-ho, which rises to the east of Sintai, flows
westward, then turns toward the south, and enters the
Grand Canal. The other rivers are either mountain
streams, or summer brooks, flowing over beds of shingle;
and even those we have mentioned are only available for
flat-bottomed boats at a greater or lesser distance from
their point of debouchement. The courses of all are
marked on the map, and their volume and character
described in the course of my journeys.
88 PROVINCE OF SHAN-TUNG.
The water communication, on the south of Shan-
tung, is most excellent, and adds greatly to the wealth
of the province. There are several large lakes, which
stretch across the country from north-west to south-east,
and touch fertile tracts producing cotton, silk, coal, etc.,
in addition to the usual varieties of grain and millet.
The districts bordering these lakes are very populous,
and consume immense quantities of foreign and southern
goods. The Grand Canal, as we have shown, connects
these lakes with one another, and so completes a perfect
chain of inland navigation.
Shan-tung is favoured in having many good service-
able harbours on both the north and the south sides.
Pre-eminent among these is that of Che-foo, called Yen-
tai by the natives. This harbour has been so often
described and is so well known, that it is unnecessary
to enter into details here. Suffice it to say, that it is
deep and extensive, capable of containing large fleets.
Unfortunately the foreign settlement has been located on
the wrong side of the estuary. Foreigners who arrived
for the first time, finding native craft moored on the
South side, and the majority of the native warehouses
on the Southern beach, at once, in their eager desire for
immediate returns, began to build in a cramped locality
on the north-east of the old native town ; forgetting that
what would suit flat-bottomed junks might not suffice
for foreign vessels, and overlooking altogether health,
safety, the certain development of foreign trade, and the
requirements of future residents. The consequence is,
SEAPORTS.—CHE-FOO HARBOUR. 89
that the portion chosen by our predecessors between the
native town and the sea is now nearly full; that foreign
vessels have to be moored at a considerable distance from
the shore, and are exposed to the wind from several
directions, so that there are many days occurring at
intervals throughout the year when the loading or dis-
charging of ships is impossible. Again, the water is
bad, the settlement is exposed to the full blast of the
north-west wind, and foreigners cannot get into the
country without either passing through the native town,
or making a circuit ; whereas, on the opposite side, they
could have excellent shelter from every northern wind, a
fine exposure to the healthful southern breezes, deep
anchorage for ships within a few yards of the shore, excel-
lent facilities for sea-bathing, good drinking-water, a fine
district for exercise, and, above all, facilities for complete
isolation from the neighbouring mainland in case of
rebellions, epidemics, and such evils. A wall across the
sandy “spit” at the western end would entirely detach
our position. Owing to the capital expended in building
on the part both of foreigners and natives, there would
be considerable opposition to any change that might be
proposed now. At the same time, the exigencies of
trade may demand it. When railroads are constructed,
the directors are sure to see the desirableness of this
new locality, not only in view of the advantages above
named, but for the permanent Safety and adequate dis-
posal of their railway stock. It is quite possible the
ever-recurring detention of steamers in bad weather may
90 PROVINCE OF SHAN-TUNG.
lead the managers of the Steam Navigation Companies
to combine with them and change the focus of business
to the other side of the bay. This would place the
future of Che-foo on a proper basis, and provide for its
expansion, both as a commercial emporium and a most
desirable sea-bathing quarter.
Next to Che-foo stands the harbour of Wei-hai-wei.
This seaport lies in lat. 37° 30' N., long. 122°82' E.
Like Che-foo, this harbour is very large, and well shel-
tered on all sides. A large island, lying on the north-
east of the town, defends the shipping from the force
of the north-east wind, the only wind to which it is
in any way exposed. Generally speaking, the water is
deeper than that of Che-foo harbour, and the port is
in great favour with the Chinese. The greater portion
of the junks which trade with Corea take their departure
from this place.
The harbour of Shih-tau lies on the south side of
the promontory, lat. 36° 58' N., long. 122° 23' E., and
is a place of considerable importance. The inner har-
bour is perfectly sheltered from every wind that blows,
and is capable of containing a good many junks. It
presents many features of resemblance to the harbour of
Kirkwall, in Orkney. The town contains about 12,000
people, and there are many large warehouses. The
hills behind are rugged and high ; but there is a good
causeway leading into the interior.
Another seaport is Kin-kia-kow. Formerly the trade
of this place was very considerable, but of late years,
|HARBOURS.—CLIMATE. 91
owing to the rise of Che-foo, it has dwindled down to
almost nothing. The rebels visited it in 1867, and
completed its desolation. It lies on the northern end
of a good bay, and might be made serviceable if needed.
One of the best harbours on the south of Shan-tung
is Ching-tau, or Ching-tau-kow, which lies on the extreme
South of Lau-shan peninsula. It has a pretty good
anchorage, varying from 1% fathoms to 5 fathoms, and
is much frequented by Chinese. There is a village and
custom-house, and a good bridle-road to Tsi-mi, Kyau-
chow, and the interior of Shan-tung. Steamers could
call here.
Besides these, there are many harbours of a second
or third-class order, some of which are incidentally
noticed in my journals, all of which are the resort of
numerous junks, and where a considerable amount of
business is transacted.
The climate of Shan-tung resembles that of the north-
eastern states of America. Corresponding in latitude,
they also resemble each other, as lying on the eastern
edge of a great continent, unaffected by any modifying
influence, such as a gulf stream, which makes so mate-
rial a difference in the climate of Great Britain ; for,
though there is a minor gulf stream in the China seas,
it affects Japan, not China. The same dry atmosphere,
the same arid features, characterize the sister regions
on both continents, although I am inclined to think
Shan-tung the less arid of the two, for the ranges of
hills and the sea on three sides of a large portion of
92 PROVINCE OF SHAN-TUNG.
the country infuse a large measure of moisture into
the air.
The seasons are pretty well marked. Spring gene-
rally begins about the opening of March. Towards
the close of May everything is in rich luxuriance. The
leaf begins to turn about the middle of September,
and the winter opens almost invariably with a snow-
storm near the end of November. There are no fixed
rainy seasons. Heavy rains may fall at any time
throughout the year, but usually the largest proportion
falls in April and July and the beginning of September.
Heavy falls of snow often occur in winter, and cover the
ground to the depth of from one to two feet; but it
seldom lies above three or four days, except in ravines
and places beyond the reach of the noonday rays of the
sun. The temperature seldom rises above 85° Fahren-
heit, or falls below 20°, so that the weather, except
in rare instances, is not oppressive in any way, at any
time of the year. The spring and autumn months are
particularly delightful, and it is a perfect joy for a visitor
from Southern China to stroll on the sea-shore, or
climb the Shan-tung hills at these seasons. Exposure
to the sun, however, has here the same dangerous effects
as in Southern China. In mid-summer the rays are
very powerful, and precautions are necessary, more or
less, during the greater part of the year.
As might be expected from the character of the
country, there is considerable diversity in regard to the
fertility of the soil. In some districts, such as those lying
SOIL AND PRODUCTS.—WILLOW-TREES. 93
between Ku-chow and Yi-chow, and in that region
generally, the ground is very stony and comparatively
barren. The mountain sides all over the province,
Scorched by a burning sun, are unproductive, and yield
only brushwood and grass. But the valleys everywhere
are extremely fertile. The plains on the north, impreg-
nated with Salt, are not very productive, especially near
the sea; but the alluvial districts, both on the west and
on the south, are extremely rich. In their gardens it
would be difficult to say how many crops they obtain.
One thing is grown with another, so that they have
often three or four, or even five, different yields. In the
south-west, and in the valleys all over the province,
they have generally two crops in the year. When the
wheat is pulled, they immediately turn over the ground
and sow pulse, buck-wheat, turnips, beet-root, Sweet
potatoes, and plant young tobacco. Again, after the
small millet is up, they sow beans or hemp in the
middle of the rows, and when the first is cut the other
is left to grow and ripen. It is so with other crops
also. - -
I have never met with any large forests in Shan-
tung, and am inclined to believe that none exist.
Lesser or greater plantations are not uncommon, but
the custom is to plant trees by the sides of streams,
and in other places where they do not interfere with the
agriculture. The first kind of trees which the traveller
observes on landing at Che-foo is the willow, of which
there are three varieties. The river willow, the moun-
94 PROVINCE OF SHAN-TUNG.
tain willow, and the weeping willow. They all attain
a considerable size, and from their rapid growth and the
fact that they grow where nothing else will, are of great
importance to the natives. The most valuable is the
river willow. The weeping willow grows to a great
height and is an ornamental tree of great beauty.
Osier wands are also cultivated for basket-making. The
next tree which attracts attention is the Chinese poplar,
of which there are two varieties, viz. Populus alba and
Populus migra. They grow to about the same size as
the common poplars, and form a very pleasing feature.
The former has large leaves, and the latter has much
Smaller ones. These poplars are especially magnificent
in the South of the province, and add greatly to the
charms of the landscape. The wood is of the utmost
importance to the people.
As the traveller proceeds inwards, he finds stunted
pines on the hill-sides, which are reared for fuel; and
also a very pretty fir which, when old, assumes a
strange shape. It tends to become flat at the top, and
Sometimes appears nearly as flat as the floor of a room,
as if a party might make a picnic on its summit !
Another variety is cultivated by rich men in their
gardens, viz. a dwarf fir, which often grows in pots, and,
ike the yew in Dutch gardening, assumes shapes to
please the gardener. The cypress grows in every grave-
yard, and it is also found in the numerous ancestral
temples. It is very beautiful, and the wood is highly
prized for coffins.
THE LOCUST-TREE.--THE WAX-TREE. 95
The Why-shoo (Sophora Japonica) is very common.
In appearance it looks like the ash. It blossoms in
autumn, and the dried buds and the seeds are used for
a yellow dye, and exported in considerable quantities.
Oaks are found in all the hilly districts, and the best
marked varieties are (a) a tree like our common oak,
from the leaves of which, as well as from the flowers
and cup of the acorn, the natives obtain a black dye;
(b) the oak shrub, on the leaves of which they feed
the silk-worm ; and (c) another, which has a large leaf,
which they use chiefly as a substitute for small trays in
cooking and steaming their bread.
The Wax-tree, called by the natives the Lah-shoo,
blossoms about the beginning of summer, in small
bunches of white flowers, which ripen into fruit. On
this tree is found a peculiar kind of insect, resembling a
louse, which the natives take off and preserve during
winter, replacing it in spring; it feeds on the tree, and
after extracting the juices, about the end of summer
voids a peculiar substance, which is carefully gathered,
and, when melted, forms wax ; they make candles of
it, which are very expensive, and they also use it for the
outer skin of tallow-candles to give them the appearance
of the genuine article. This insect will live during
winter on the tree, but is taken into the house by the
owners of the trees lest it should be stolen. This tree
grows plentifully in the neighbourhood of Lai-yang. The
natives use the wood, which is very tough, for making a
variety of articles. They take it when young, and bend
96 PROVINCE OF SHAN-TUNG.
it so that it assumes any shape they please, and thus they
make most excellent hay-forks, all of one piece, for pur-
poses of husbandry; frames for the backs of mules, on
which they bind the burdens; handles of large baskets,
walking-sticks, and other useful articles.
The Woo-thoong-shoo is the Dryandra cordifolia.
The fruit of this tree is very fragrant; the wood is
used for musical instruments. The Chinese say that
the months of the year may be known from this tree.
It bears one leaf each moon, and so bears annually
twelve leaves, six on each side ; and if there be an inter-
calary month, it produces thirteen In this case they
say one leaf falls off in mid-autumn. The Mulberry-tree
is found in many places in the centre and south of the
province, and is used for the silk-worm, as in the south.
The Ch'-hoo-shoo is a sort of mulberry, but unfit for
silk-worms: the bark is used for making strong paper.
Of the Ch'-hun-shoo there are two kinds, viz. the Hiang-
ch’-hun and the Chiew-ch’-hun. The young leaves of
the Hiang-ch’-hun, or “the fragrant Ch’-hun,” are
highly esteemed as an esculent in spring; and many
boys may be seen climbing the trees to obtain the young
shoots. The wood is very strong and good. The
Pepper-tree is like the hawthorn in appearance, and
full of thorns : the peppercorns are in common use.
The Hawthorn is very common ; the blossoms have
the same rich fragrance as in Britain, but the fruit is as
large as crab-apples. They make excellent jelly of the
haws, and also dip them in boiling sugar, stick them
TEA-TREES. 97.
on the end of a staff tied round with straw, which they
carry on their shoulders, and sell in the markets. The
hawthorn-trees sometimes grow to an immense size, four
to six feet in diameter. The bamboos in the north of the
province are small, and tend to square stems; but in
the south, especially among the “Lau-shan' hills,
South of Tsi-mi, they grow to the usual height, and are
used for a great variety of purposes. -
Tea of a very palatable kind is produced from the
leaves of several shrubs common in the province. The
best kind is from a tall, spare shrub, not unlike our com-
mon privet in habit and foliage, and which produces a
beautiful little flower about the beginning of June. The
natives prize this shrub very highly, and in former years
they exported a large amount of this tea to Peking and
the south. This trade has fallen off. The Chinese say
that the Shan-tung people have not of late employed the
proper methods of preparing the article. Accordingly,
about six years ago, a few Canton men came here to
cultivate this branch of trade, and last year another com-
pany of southern men, L-formed with this view, rented
large tracts of the hilly country near Che-foo, where the
plant grows. It is very doubtful, however, whether this
trade will ever rise into any importance. The other tea-
producing trees are less esteemed, but their leaves are
used both separately as an inferior kind of tea, and also
for the purpose of adulterating teas of a better quality.
Of Flowering Shrubs there is great variety. Among
them may be mentioned the mimosa, which often grows
WOL. I. 7
98 PROVINCE OF SHAN-TUNG.
to huge dimensions, as at the Temple of Mencius;
the Glycine Simensis; Jasminum nudiflorum; the Cercis
siligmastrum ; Honeysuckles ; and several species of
Roses. The mistleto, or perhaps a Loranthus, is found
chiefly in the district of Foo-shan-hien, near Che-foo.
It grows indiscriminately on the willow, the oak, and
other trees. It is very pleasant to meet its well-known
form and beautiful berries in the dead of winter in this
distant land. Its branches are used to decorate the
houses of foreigners during the festivities of Christmas
and the New Year. -
The Zoology of Shan-tung comprises several carni-
vorous animals, the chief among them being the wolf.
This animal is found in the hilly districts, in some
places in great numbers, as, for instance, in Chiau-
woo-shan, near Hai-yang, and in the Saw-teeth Moun-
tains, near Tau-tswun. Men dare not venture singly
into the defiles of these hills; and when they wish
to gather the grass in autumn, parties of eight or ten,
or more, are formed for mutual protection. These
beasts are very ferocious, especially in winter, when
they come down to the plains, generally in pairs.
In the year 1867, one leaped over the high wall into
our compound, and made for the stable, but was detected
by the dogs in time to frighten it away before doing
any damage. In the beginning of December, 1868,
another came, about ten o'clock at night, and killed
one of our goats in the school-yard. Now and then
children are taken away by them, and pigs are frequently.
ZOOLOGY. 99
carried off. Their skins are prized by the natives; the
white fur on their throats makes beautiful winter robes
for the wealthy.
Foxes are very common. The Chinese speak of
three kinds, viz. the red, the grey, and the white. The
white is very rare, and is held in superstitious awe; the
grey is found in Sandy districts; and the red among the
rich valleys. They appear to be very prolific, and are
killed in great numbers every year, as may be inferred
from the skins which come into the market : the poor
people use the tail for a neck-comforter or cravat. The
badger is not unfrequently met with ; its favourite
haunt is Sandy soil, and if it can get near any old
tombs, it makes its nest there. Its skin is highly
valued. The otter is also found, and its skin is used
for cuffs or the collars of coats, and brings a high price.
The weasel and the polecat are common, the latter
especially being fatal to poultry.
Of the order Rodentia, there are various species,
among which may be enumerated hares, rabbits, squir-
rels, mice and rats. The hares are small, and much
resemble rabbits, but they have their nests among
bushes and grass, and do not burrow as rabbits do.
Hedgehogs, moles, and bats are the chief representa-
tives of the order Insectivora. The hedgehogs differ
somewhat from those in England, but have all the
specialities of this animal; one had a litter of five young
ones in our garden. They have a cry for one another in
the fields—a cry which once heard can never be mistaken.
100 PROVINCE OF SHAN-TUNG.
:
:
Domestic animals comprise the horse, cow, sheep,
goat, ass, mule, dog, pig, cat, with hens of many varie-
ties, ducks, and geese. The horses are small, but
hardy. The cows resemble our Highland cattle, and, like
them, graze in herds on the hill-sides. The sheep is
large-tailed. The dog in shape resembles our shepherd-
dog, but lacks his skill and courage. There are several
varieties; those found in the south of the province,
about Yen-chow-foo, are the best kind for watch-dogs;
they are like our mastiff in some respects. The Shan-
tung terrier is a pretty and active dog. -
The feathered tribes, not domesticated, are numerous
and diversified. There are many birds of prey, such as
the common hawk, and two or three species of eagles
and owls. The falcon is trained to kill hares and other
game; and it is amusing to See a Chinaman going out
into the fields with his falcon on his arm—a diverting
caricature of the gallant falconer of olden times.
Of the gallinaceous order, we have the pheasant, the
red-legged partridge, the Turkey-bustard, the quail, and
pigeons of many kinds, including carrier-pigeons. The
quail comes in vast flocks about the beginning of
winter. The Chinese train them to fight, as the people
of some other countries do cocks. Magpies literally
swarm everywhere ; they are sacred to this dynasty.
Crows are frequently met with ; the raven is common.
The sparrow abounds everywhere; it is rather smaller
than the English sparrow, but is distinguished by the
same habits. Larks, especially the meadow-lark, are
BIRDS.—SNARES. 101
very common. The cuckoo is a regular visitant ; and
there are woodpeckers, crossbills, thrushes, linnets,
orioles, and finches of different kinds. Swallows innu-
merable, of various kinds, including the familiar house-
swallow, appear in their season; and the laughing-dove
is heard here and there among the trees and brushwood
on the hills. Small birds are not so numerous as We
might expect, owing to the plague of magpies.
Of water-fowl there is a great variety, including
various species of wild-geese, wild-duck, teal, Snipe,
water-hens, cranes, and gulls. We have also the wild-
swan in Shan-tung. I first saw what I supposed to be
wild-swans about three or four years ago, near the
Yellow River; but, being so rare, I could not then confi-
dently say anything about them ; now, however, there can
be no doubt about the matter: they are found also in
Chih-li and Manchuria, and specimens may be seen in
Père David's Museum in Peking.
There are several varieties of snakes. One is very
deadly; it is of a greenish hue, and measures from
about eighteen inches to two-and-a-half feet; they make
their nests under houses, and sometimes take up their
quarters in trunks among the clothes. A lady in Che-
foo was bitten by one when taking out some articles
from her store-room. It was a very minute bite, and
remedies having been applied, she recovered ; but she
was dangerously ill. Centipedes are common and dan-
gerous; a bite takes months to heal. Lizards are
numerous, but innocuous. Frogs are found everywhere.
102 PROVINCE OF SHAN-TUNG.
Flies are innumerable, and are a great nuisance in
summer. Mosquitoes, too, are common in warm weather.
The glow-worm's light is common, vivid, and beautiful
On the dark summer evenings.
The capital of Shan-tung, Tsi-nan-foo, lat. 36° 50',
long. 117°, lies in a sort of basin, the ground on all
sides being higher than the city. It is a much more
important place than I expected to find it. There are
Several long streets full of large shops, and exhibiting
great life and bustle. The chief one is that which runs
east and west, and, including the western suburbs, is
eight li in length. Several of the streets which run
north and South are also crowded with excellent, well-
stocked shops. I saw quantities of Russian cloth, as
well as a fair proportion of Bradford, Leeds, and Man-
chester goods. There were not a few bookshops, full
of books, native drawings and paintings, indicating the
presence of literary pursuits and tastes. During our
first Sojourn there we met two immense funerals, and
Saw Several processions quite equal to those I have seen
in the South ; a proof of wealth and profuse expen-
diture. There are several fine temples in the city, and
two spacious examination-halls, one for Bachelors of
Arts and the other for Doctors of Law. There is also
a Drum Tower, and all the furniture of a provincial
capital. - -
The city has three lines of defence : first, an
extensive mud rampart ; then a granite wall; and,
lastly, the city wall proper, which is well built and
TSI-NAN-FOO. 103
defended. One most interesting feature marks this
city. I refer to three springs which bubble up in three
Separate gushes of water about two feet high, outside the
western gate. These springs fill the moat all round the
city, and form a fine lake inside on the north. They are
now inclosed by a high wall, while in front and around
them are temples and gardens. The water is pleasant
to the taste, somewhat tepid, but greatly prized by the
natives. The lake has several summer-houses in it, and
is very pretty in summer ; one is finely situated, and
commands an extensive view. We engaged a boat, -
one of many which were plying for hire, and visited
the famous places; and rather enjoyed our sail, though
the morning air was raw. Fish of many kinds abound,
and yield no small proportion of the food of the people.
There are about 100,000 inhabitants; of these there
are 2,000 Mohammedan families, who maintain two
mosques. Our butcher was of this persuasion : we
found him a very decent man, and he gave us many
details in reference to his party. These people all turn
to us, and claim kindred as worshipping the same God.
The Romanists have an establishment in the city, con-
sisting of a bishop and several priests. There are fine
hills on the south side, on which are some famous
temples, much frequented in summer. Owing to these
hills and the low-lying position of the city, the houses
are very damp, except in the western suburbs, where
the ground is higher. Fever and ague are common.
One has only to scrape a hole a few inches deep to find
104 PROVINCE OF SHAN-TUNG.
water. This city is within four or five miles of the
New Yellow River, and would form an important market
were this river opened to steamers.
Approaching Tsing-chow-foo from the west, lat.
36° 45'., long. 118° 35', the old capital of the province,
we found the country fine, roads paved, and everything
indicating former grandeur. We passed through the
Tartar city, which lies on the north of the city proper,
and crossing a plain entered the suburbs. The walls of
the Tartar city are high and strong; but the people are
not very numerous, and no business is done save in huck-
sters’ shops. The city lies in a hollow like Tsi-nan-foo,
though not so marked, and has fine hills behind it ; it is
very large, and has a great population. The shops have
decreased in splendour, and are now almost all second-
rate; but it continues to be the centre of a great local
trade.
Ryau-chow, lat. 36° 16', long. 120° 10', was in
former times the most important centre of trade in the
east of Shan-tung. It received its supplies from the
south by the sea, and distributed goods all over the
country. Now, owing to the rising of the coast or the
filling up of the bay, and especially owing to the opening
of the port of Che-foo, business has greatly fallen off.
What is now the port of Kyau-chow is a small town
called Ta-poh-tur, five miles from the city, situated
about thirteen miles by water from the sea, on a creek
which is as nearly as possible quite dry, when the tide
is out. The Ningpo and Fohkien junks anchor in the
KYAU-CHOW. 105
roadstead on the south, and the cargo is brought up
in flat-bottomed lighters, fifty or sixty of which we saw
lying high and dry on the banks waiting the flow of
the tide. The country all round, as far as the eye can
see, is a dead flat; seawards it is quite marshy; and,
though we were only six miles from the shore as the
crow flies, we could not discern the town: all we could
See were two or three small islands a considerable
distance away. The Chinese Government wished it to
be made the port of Shan-tung rather than Che-foo,
but this would have been fatal, as the bay cannot be
deep; it is either filling up with the monsoon, or rising
of itself, and appears exposed to the wind from almost
every direction.
The city of Kyau-chow bears unmistakable evidence
of its former wealth and importance. The streets in
all directions are bridged over every few yards with
pailows of endlessly various device; some are made of
granite; some of sandstone. The cross-beam is one
piece of stone reaching from one side of the street to
the other; and the upright pillars, also of one piece,
rest on immense blocks, giving to the city a striking
richness of aspect. These abound also in the suburbs,
as well as in the city proper. The site and structure
of the private houses also speak of the wealth of the
place; many of these cover a large space of ground,
having walls often thirty feet high, if not more, care-
fully and strongly built. Many houses have high poles
before their front door, indicating that some member of
.*
106 PROVINCE OF SEIAN-TUNG.
the family had been a mandarin. The city itself is not
large, but the suburbs, which are walled round, are
extensive. The trade is carried on chiefly in the
western suburbs. The people appeared rather hostile
to foreigners the first time we visited the place, and
called us all sorts of names: one man, partially drunk,
was exceedingly abusive. But on our second visit they
were particularly cordial.
Toong-chang-foo, latitude 36° 38', longitude 116°11',
is a very important city, situated in an excellent position.
It lies near the new course of the Yellow River, and on
the banks of the Grand Canal. The eastern suburbs
are very extensive, and have warehouses rivalling many
in Tien-tsin and Shanghai. There is a great business
dome in all kinds of wares, foreign and native. The
other “foo” cities, such as Tsau-chow-foo, Woo-ting-foo,
Yen-chow-foo, Yi-chow-foo, Lai-chow-foo, Tung-chow-
foo, and Tai-ngan-foo are quiet departmental cities,
important only as centres of rural trade. Besides
the cities above mentioned are several “hien’ cities and
towns, worthy of notice as the centres also of consider-
able distributing traffic. The chief among these are
Wei-hien, Whang-hien, Chu-ching, and the great town
of Tsu-chwen or Chow-tswun, near Chi-chow, Tei-chow,
and Li-tsing, the last being near the western borders
of the province. These and other cities and villages
are described in the course of my Journeys.
The bulk of the people are engaged in agriculture.
They understand the rotation of crops, and have con-
FOOD-PLANTS. —WHEAT.-BARLEY. 107
siderable skill in the treatment of the soil and the cul-
tivation of their cereals, fruits, trees, &c. &c. Their
implements are of a very primitive description, con-
sisting chiefly of a rude plough, harrows of a very simple
construction, and the hoe. The plough is sometimes of
Wood, with an iron share and blade, and sometimes
wholly of iron. The harrow is light, and a man stands
On it, uttering a peculiar cry as the animals drag it over
the ground. The hoe is differently shaped from ours,
and admirably adapted for its purpose. The produce of
the soil is very fair, considering all the circumstances,
but could be greatly improved by modern appliances. A
good many people devote themselves to the cultivation
of fruit-trees and vines. Ground fit for nothing else is
occupied as orchards, some of which are very extensive.
Gardening and grafting are well understood, and they
have sometimes three or four different kinds of fruit
growing on One stock.
First among food-plants stands wheat. This cereal
is sown in autumn, when it attains a good braird; it
defies the frost of winter, shoots up rapidly in spring,
and is ready for the sickle, sometimes at the end of May,
but usually at the beginning of June. It is grown all
over the province in great quantities, and produces flour,
in many places, of magnificent quality,+as good as the
best American. The straw is used in the centre of the
province to make tinder-paper for striking light with
their flints, and also straw hats and straw braid, which
last now form an important article of export.
108 PROVINCE OF SHAN-TUNG.
Barley is grown in many places. The natives pre-
pare pearl-barley, which is greatly prized, and produce a
kind of sugarstick from the grain, which is a favourite
sweetmeat with the children. The barley is first malted,
then bruised in a mill, and afterwards boiled in water.
This, when strained, leaves a thick wort, which is boiled
down with sugar to a sweet syrup, then mixed with flour
till it becomes stiff, when they beat and draw it, and
make it up into such shapes as they please.
Millet is divided into the tall and the short kind,
and these again into several varieties. Of the tall
millet there are the yellow, the red, the white, that with
white seeds and black sheath, that with red seeds and
black sheath, that with white seeds and red sheath, the
sweet or sorghum, and that with black sheath entirely
enclosing the seed. The first and second are those
chiefly used for food; the third, fourth, fifth, and sixth
are more glutinous; the seventh is grown in gardens,
and the children eat the stalks; the eighth is prized
chiefly for its stems, which grow to a great height. The
generic name for all these is Kau-liang, but each variety
has its own name. They grow to an immense height,
ranging from ten to fifteen feet : a horse and rider is
lost to sight in the midst of them. These plants are
extremely useful, and in a measure take the place of the
bamboos of the South. The tall stout stalks are used
for roofing, for stockades round the farm-houses, for the
covering of boilers, for frames, for many household
purposes, and for fuel. One peculiarity of their growth
MILLET.-MAIZE. 109
deserves special notice. As the tall stem with its heavy
head of grain could never withstand the wind and
weather if left to itself, Providence has made a most
beautiful provision for its support. When the stem
ascends over three feet or so, it sends out from its base
branches or rootlets, which grow downward and fasten
themselves into the ground. The number and thickness
of these supports are always in proportion to the height
and weight of the head, so that the stems effectually
resist all ordinary winds, and stand before one like so
many tiny masts with their lower stays supporting
them.
The short millet comprises several varieties. The
first and most important is called Ku-tsze, a fine grain
with beautiful small seeds like Sago, only that they are
of a golden yellow colour; other varieties have the seeds
bluish, grey, and red. The bluish variety of short millet
is called Shoo-tsze. It is glutinous, used for food, but
more especially for preparing a kind of beer called
Whang-chiew. There is a kind called Tsi-tsze, which
has white seed and sheath, used only for food, and
sweetish to the taste.
Indian Corn, or Maize, is grown very abundantly.
It is called Pau-mi, or the folded-up grain, in reference
to the structure of its beautiful seed-bearing head.
There are two kinds: that with yellow seeds and that
with white seeds. The yellow is by far the most com-
mon, but the white is the finest. This cereal is not
indigenous, but was introduced some hundred years
110 PROVINCE OF SHAN-TUNG.
ago, and its universal prevalence shows how readily
the Chinese adopt whatever is profitable and useful.
Pulse is divided into three classes, each compre-
hending several varieties. The first is the common
pulse, embracing the yellow and black varieties. The
one is chiefly used for the manufacture of beam-cake
and oil, and the other for feeding cattle. The second
class comprises the small blue bean, the Kiang-teu, the
small beans, including the variegated, purple, and black,
and the Wang-teu, which has a bitter taste. This latter
is sown in autumn like wheat, and comes originally
from Manchuria. The third class, is the kitchen-bean,
embracing the eyebrow bean, the monthly bean, the
long-pod pea, and the fragrant bean. The pods of the
monthly bean are cooked; the peas are not much
esteemed, especially if old. From pulse they also make
a sauce of excellent quality called “soy,” and also a
bean-curd which is much used for food.”
There are four varieties of rice: the dry-soil rice,
the wet-soil rice, the glutinous rice, and the fragrant
rice. The first is sown in spring, on dry soil like
wheat; is never irrigated; grows well and produces an
excellent grain, possessing much more of the farinaceous
element than the southern rice. The natives greatly
prefer it to the watery rice of the south. The second
is grown in the neighbourhood of the hot springs, and
in the south of the province. The third is not so com-
* Regarding the manufacture of bean-cake, bean-oil soy, and bean-
curd, see Medical Missionary in China, pp. 63–69. Dr. Lockhart.
PULSE.-RICE.-ARROW-ROOT.—TOBACCO, ETC. 111
mon, and much dearer, but extremely palatable : it can
be grown both on dry and on wet soil. The fourth
kind is not so productive as the others, yielding scarcely
half as much, and is consequently somewhat rare, but
is prized by epicures.
The Castor-oil Plant is common, and the seeds are
used for a variety of purposes. Sesamum is extensively
cultivated all over the province. It yields a fine oil
called the fragrant oil, which is used for cooking, light-
ing, and various other purposes. Hemp and Jute are
found everywhere. The seeds are used for cattle, oil,
&c., and the fibre for ropes and other purposes. Their
stalks being unpalatable to mules and cattle, they are
planted in company with the castor-oil plant on the edge
of fields and road-sides, and serve as effectual hedges.
Arrow-root of an excellent quality is reared in
several places, but especially in the south-west of the
province ; it is also produced in the neighbourhood of
all the hot springs. That grown at Wun-shih-tang is
brought into the Che-foo market, and is much prized by
the rich native merchants. This article is greatly
adulterated, and unless care be taken it is almost
impossible for foreigners to obtain the genuine article.
Tobacco is grown in great quantities, especially in the
eastern portion of the province. It is Smoked by almost
everybody, man, woman, and boy. It is much esteemed
in the South, and a large amount is exported yearly.
A species of wild hop grows here and there in this pro-
vince ; but it is not used by the natives.
112 PROVINCE OF SEIAN-TUNG.
Cºtton is largely grown in the western and south-
west portions of the province; and could be raised in
much greater abundance if necessary. There are two
kinds, viz. that commonly exported, which is familiarly
enough known, and another superior kind, which is very
strong in the fibre, and of which the people make cash-
bags, Saddle-bags, and strong cloth. This latter is
much cultivated near Tau-ling-hien, in the north-west
of the province.
There appears to be considerable misapprehension
in reference to the silk produced in Shan-tung. Many
imagine that there are no mulberry-trees, and that all
silk which can be obtained there must come from the
worms which live on the oak-shrub, and such trees.
This is a mistake. Mulberry-trees are very common in
the plains throughout the province ; during my journeys
I found them in all directions, out of the reach of the
north wind, and passed through large orchards of them.
The truth is, there are three kinds of silkworms, and
three kinds of silk in common use among the people :
viz., first, the brown common silk, of which they make
the well-known pongee ; the second, a beautiful white
silk, or still more beautiful yellow silk; the third, a
blackish silk, made from worms which feed on the
pepper-tree. Of these three kinds there are various
qualities, dependent on the feeding and the care taken
otherwise in the culture of the worm. One quality of
the second description is famous for producing a texture
almost impervious to stains. The third kind produces
SILK.—DYES.—WEGETABLES.—FRUIT. 113
a cloth exempt from the attacks of insects, and is greatly
prized. I believe that when the matter is looked into,
Shan-tung silk must become an important article in the
foreign market.
For dyes there are indigo, madder, a fine purple dye,
a yellow dye from the leaves of the why-shoo, the famous
vegetable green dye, and others of less importance.
Of culinary vegetables there is great variety. First,
not only from its magnitude, but also from its fame,
stands the enormous Shan-tung cabbage. It is about
fourteen inches high, and eight or ten inches in diameter;
is coarse to European taste, but makes a good salad in
winter. This huge cabbage appears like an exagge-
rated lettuce. Another kind has a heart, and more
nearly approaches to our own cabbage, but is very bitter.
It is salted down like Sauerkraut. The kitchen-garden
produces spinach, a species of turnip, with bitter tops
used for food, celery, a variety of parsley, garlic, leeks,
several kinds of onions, another species of turnip, with
good serviceable bulb, and a curious vegetable like a
bare colewort-stem, with a few leaves on the top, which
is kept in tubs, and portions cut off as required. It is
an excellent wholesome vegetable, and called by natives
woa-sing. Further are produced Brinjals, a kind of
egg-plant, chih-lee or capsicums, mustard, potatoes,
sweet-potatoes, ground-nuts, carrots, beetroot, mangel-
wurzel, melons, cucumbers, vegetable-marrows, gourds,
pumpkins, and yams in endless variety.
Among fruits the first ripe is the cherry; after it in
WOL. I. 8
:
:
114 PROVINCE OF SEIAN-TUNG.
;
:
;
ſº
i
tº
©
Succession come apricots, peaches, plums, nectarines,
six or seven varieties of apples, many kinds of pears,
Several varieties of grapes, walnuts, persimons, gigantic
haws, chestnuts, pea-nuts, dates, pomegranates, lemons,
quinces, citrons, and Siberian crabs, &c. The cherries
are inferior ; the apricots and peaches rich and deli-
cious. Among other kinds of plum they have a fine
magnum bonum. Some of their apples are good : one
variety, a red-cheáked apple, called “wha-hoong,” is as
good as any English apple. Some of the pears are very
fine, one like the jargonelle. The grapes are abundant,
various, and fine. Their dates are not from the palm,
but the fruit of a Rhamnus.
Until recently very little was known of the minerals
in Shan-tung. Wague impressions regarding the exist-
ence of coal at Po-shan-hien and Wei-hien constituted
about the sum of our knowledge on the subject; but
now we can speak with some degree of precision.
Various places have been visited, and samples of coal,
iron-ore, galena, gold, &c. have been brought to Che-
foo, and pronounced excellent.
There are four great coal-fields in this province
with mines in active operation ; several minor ones;
and also other places where coal is known to exist,
but where mining is interdicted. The chief among
the great coal-producing districts is the valley of the
Lau-fu-ho, longitude 117° 56' E., beginning about
latitude 36° 50' N. and extending south to latitude
36° 30', including the cities Chi-chuen, Yen-shih-ching,
COAL DISTRICTS. 115
and Po-shan-hien. This valley runs north and south,
and the hills on the west side, and behind the latter
city, are perforated with coal-pits. Several varieties are
extracted : some fine bituminous coal, some partly bitu-
minous and partly anthracite, gas coal and other kinds
difficult to class. This district is famous all over the
country, and supplies the neighbouring towns and cities.
Approaching this place, I met a very unexpected product
carried on wheelbarrows, often bound for distant places.
This was coke; and on reaching Po-shan-hien, I found
it manufactured in immense quantities: I saw three
different kinds of coke stored in large yards, and ex-
ported abundantly. It is used for smelting silver, and
for purposes where great heat is required. This speaks
volumes for the quality of the coal.
The chief coal districts in this quarter are two in
number, first that on S.E. of the city of Po-shan-hien.
Passing through a narrow gorge in limestone rocks, a hill
is reached where the pits are. We visited one of the
largest ; they were bringing up quantities of fine coal by
windlasses: there was no water about the pit. We asked
the cause, and were referred to a shed down on a hill-
side, in which was a deep well which drained this pit and
several others besides. The hill appears full of coal,
and has the great advantage of being easily worked, the
water having a natural drainage. There are other fine
pits on the east side, and a large pottery. The other
district lies on the west side of the valley, where are
many pits also producing good coal.
116 PROVINCE OF SHAN-TUNG.
The coal from this district is conveyed by carts and
Wheelbarrows, &c. &c. to Li-tsing, on the Yellow River,
about seventy-five miles distant, and there exported in
all directions. This coal and coke are famous above all
in Shan-tung; perhaps because they can work the pit
better, and get at the fine coal. In fact this coal is
the best in Shan-tung, and there is no difficulty in
transporting it to Chefoo; a good cart-road goes direct
to the town called Li-tsing, on the Yellow River
(erroneously marked to the north on our maps), whence
junks or steamers could easily convey it to Che-foo.
The Chinese export great quantities by this route.
The second field, next in importance, lies a little
to the south of Yi-chow-foo, latitude 35° 15' N., longi-
tude 118°24' E. The country here is a plain, and the
coal is obtained by sinking shafts of greater or lesser
depth. I found three kinds, viz. bituminous, a species
of lignite, and another of very inferior quality. The
people assured me of its abundance; they said that they
found it wherever they chose to sink a pit. Here also I
found them manufacturing coke, although what I saw
was much inferior to the coke at Po-shan-hien. The
proximity of the River Yi-ho adds to the importance of
this district. It flows past the field, and, by means of
flat-bottomed boats, coals could be conveyed to Tsing-
kiang-pu on the Grand Canal, thence to Chin-keang and
on to Shanghai.
The third field is the Wei-hien district, which begins
about twenty-five lisouth of the city of Wei-hien, latitude
COAL DISTRICTS. 117
36° 40', longitude 119° 12', and continues for about
fifteen li, chiefly on the west side of the highway leading
to Nan-kui. We visited it in the spring of 1869. There
were five pits in full operation,-one on the west, two
On the south-west, and two on the south. The coal was
of two kinds, bituminous and anthracite, the former
most plentiful. The seams varied from two feet to ten
and twelve feet, and in one place we heard that they
were fifteen feet thick. The pits are vertical, of various
depths, and lined with wooden supports. Water is the
great obstacle : the pits require incessant pumping,
and are given up after a certain depth is reached.
The water-buckets are each formed of one bullock's
hide, and very ingeniously arranged, so that they fill
themselves below, and when brought to the top again
empty themselves. Each pit has two divisions,—one
for bringing up the water, and one for coal. The coal
and water are brought up by windlasses, wrought by
ten men for the former and eight for the latter. There
were from 200 to 300 men employed at each of the
pits, and they received on an average about 150 cash,
or 9d. Sterling per diem. The coal at the pit’s mouth
was about 60 cash, or 3}d. Sterling per 138 lbs. The
mandarins receive so much for permission to open a
pit, and so much for every pical excavated: they
“Squeeze" when they please, and only influential men
can hold their own against them. There are explosions
of fire-damp occasionally; lately five men were killed
from this cause. The country around appears full of
118 PROVINCE OF SHAN-TUNG.
coal. We went round the district, and saw nearly
thirty old pits which had been disused owing to the
rise of water. Hills appear on the south, and, as the
formation is different, these may limit the coal-bed in
that direction ; but the great probability is that it ex-
tends northwards as far as to the sea, and under it.
This coal-field lies only about 110 li, or thirty-three
miles, from the seaport called Hia-ying, to which flat-
bottomed boats could repair, and by this means coal
could be transhipped into large junks for Che-foo. The
country on the north is level, with a slight incline
towards the sea, so that a tramway might be constructed
by which the coal could be cheaply conveyed.
The fourth great coal-producing district lies about
forty li, or twelve miles north of Yi-hien, latitude
34° 58', longitude 117° 47', at a village called Chi-
tswun. Excellent coal is found there in abundance ;
indeed, the whole district from this point east and
north to Yi-chow-foo is carboniferous, and promises to
be perhaps the largest field in Shan-tung. It has this
great advantage, it lies not far from the Grand Canal,
and could supply steam-dredges and engines for work
on the canal and the steamers which will ultimately ply
upon it. It could also be transported at comparatively
little expense to Chin-kiang.
The places of minor importance are Sin-tai, latitude
36° 7' N., longitude 117° 56' E.; Lai-woo, latitude 36°
24', longitude 117° 44'; and Chang-kiu, latitude 36°
57° N., longitude 117° 31' E. I saw coal from all these
CHINESE METHOD OF COAL-M.INING. 119
places; that from Sin-tai and Lai-woo was good, but
the Chang-kiu coal inferior. At the latter place we were
told there were two seams: one near the surface and
the other some feet further down. The coal is mined at
all these places in the usual Chinese fashion. A pit is
dug down, or a hole is made at a more or less acute
angle in the side of a hill, and the miners work on until
water rises; they then leave that place and open another
pit. Thus they, in all probability, miss the finest
quality. Judging from the huge lumps which we often
saw, it is evident that the coal strata are of consider-
able thickness. Besides these places where the coal is
actually worked, it is reported to exist in several others:
for instance, outside the east gate of the city of Kyau-
chow, longitude 120° 9', latitude 36° 17'; in the
neighbourhood of Kwan-sae, latitude 35° 45', longitude
119° 20'; at Lau-Sze-shan, longitude 121° 10', latitude
37° 30'; and at Tung-chow-foo.
Though we have thus gained something like a
definite idea of the quality and quantities of the coal
at present produced, it has only given us a still more
indefinite idea of the actual extent and value of the
coal-fields in the province ; for, judging from the
direction of the prevailing mountain ranges, S., S.S.W.
to N., and N.N.E., and their geological features, there
is reason to believe that coal exists throughout the whole
of the centre and west of Shan-tung.
In this connection, one thing which has been brought
to light by the missionaries at Tung-chow-foo, is creating
120 PROVINCE OF SHAN-TUNG.
considerable interest, and likely to have an important
issue. I refer to the fact that an interdicted coal-mine
has been found within two miles of the city and close on
the sea-shore. The existence of the mine—first reported
by the natives and afterwards denied by them—has been
set at rest by the discovery of a tablet half buried in the
ground where the pit was, forbidding the further work-
ing of the mine. The writer has a copy of the inscrip-
tion in his possession. It is dated 11th year of the
Emperor Kia-king, 6th moon, 11th day, which makes it
A.D. 1806. It was issued by the Chi-hien mandarin, and
declares that as the pit disturbs the Fung-shui of the
villages’ burial-grounds, and neighbourhood, it is hence-
forth closed, &c. Afterwards, an application was made
to reopen it; but the literati took the matter in hand,
and insisted on its continuing shut, and succeeded in
their efforts. Seeing that this city is an open treaty
port, that it is far removed from the capital, that the pit
is in a comparatively quiet place, lying not far from
magnetic iron-ore, galena, and silver-ore, and that it is
within thirty-five miles, by sea, of Che-foo, no doubt
attempts will be made to work it. Should it prove as
productive of coal as is anticipated, it will be a great
matter to all—natives and foreigners—and a boon to
the coasting steamers and the men-of-war which coal
at the above port.
Iron-ore and iron-stone of many descriptions have
been found in several places far removed from one
another, and in such positions as to indicate their wide
IIRON-ORE. 121
distribution. Very fine iron-ore, viz. the black oxide of
iron, has been procured at a hill called Pau-shan, about
fifty li south of Tung-chow-foo. It lies near the surface,
and there appears to be plenty of it. It is nearly pure
metal, strongly magnetic, and draws a needle after it like
a powerful loadstone, which it really is. When in the
city of Tsi-nan-foo, the capital of the province, I saw a
man sitting at the side of the main-street selling pieces
of this kind of ore as “wonderful stones,” which, on being
struck, “grew a beard and drew iron after them.” In-
quiring where they came from, he informed me that
they were from the city of Ha-ta, in Manchuria; the
most distant and wildest place his imagination could
think of. I felt persuaded they were from the neighbour-
hood, and found out afterwards that the fields on the
S.E. of the city contained the ore. Having examined
the pieces he had, I am confident that the ore was of the
same nature and geological formation as that near Tung-
chow, two hundred miles apart ; and it is the most
valuable of all iron-ores. Since then these places have
been visited by a geologist and found to contain vast
masses of this ore cropping up to the surface.
Iron-ore of a somewhat different description has also
been procured from the hill called King-kwo-shan, to
which we shall have immediately to refer, as producing
galena and silver-ore. This hill is about fifty li to the
south by east of Tung-chow. And yet a third description,
very much like specular iron-ore, has been found in the
neighbourhood of Che-foo. Iron ore is also reported to
122 PROVINCE OF SHAN-TUNG.
exist in the hills behind Foo-shan-hien, within ten miles
of the port; but this has not yet been verified. In addi-
tion to these districts, Chinese books also speak of iron in
Mount Chang, 50 li S.E. of Sin-chung-hien ; at Mount
Ta-shi, 18 li S.E. of Lai-wu-hien ; at Mount Kung, 3 li
N.W. of Lai-wu-hien; at Yi-hien, S.E. of Yen-chow;
at Mount Chi-pau, 100 li N. of Kü-chow; at Mount Tieh,
90 li from Yih-te-hien ; at Kau-yuen-hien ; at Long-
ngan-hien ; at Mount Chang in Ting-tsze-hien ; and at
Mount Sung, 60 S.W. of Lin-kü.
When I first began to make inquiries regarding
the minerals of this province, I was astonished at the
universality of the knowledge of the existence of gold
and the apathy regarding it : every one seemed to
know of it. A native literary friend said that “it was
found in the sand of almost all the streams in the
eastern portion of the province after heavy rain.”
Another well-educated man acquainted with the district
reported the fact in nearly the same words, and a
scholar from Hai-yang said that it was found in the
rivulets in his neighbourhood — viz. at the Soong-
shan, 15 li north of the city. But while it thus
appears to be very widely distributed, there are several
places which stand out pre-eminent. The first is Kieu-
dien, 70 li S.E. from Lai-chow, latitude 37° 12' N.,
longitude 120° E., and 95 li N.E. of Ping-tu. Marvellous
stories relating to the richness of the quartz and sand
of this place are current among the people, which of
course have to be taken cum grano Salis. I was told
GOLD IN QUARTZ AND SAND. 123
that a teacupful of the quartz, ground down, would
sometimes yield two oz. of gold, and that 100 catties
of the sand was worth about 1,000 cash. I was also
informed that many years ago a man came from
Shen-si with 300 followers, and in two months cleared
50,000 oz. after paying all expenses. Two or three
years ago, a company of respectable men belonging
to the neighbourhood made a proposal to the Chi-
hien mandarin to work the mine, but he demanded
10,000 taels in hand before he would allow them to
commence operations. They offered 3,000 taels, but
did not venture a larger sum, as they could not
tell how much more might be demanded after they
had commenced. The mandarin remained inexorable,
and so the project was given up. I mention this to
show why so few care to engage in the mining of
the precious metals. The jus metallorum lies with the
Emperor and Government, and they have no scruples
in the matter of “squeezing.” In defence of themselves
the mandarins say that they are afraid of disturbances
among the workers of such mines.
Another place, famed as a market for gold-dust, is
ICu-hien, about 18 miles W. by S. from Che-foo. It is
procured in the streams which flow from the Lau-tsze-
shan. I have passed several old gold-washings on the
banks of the river which flows past the town. A third
district is Kin-shan-Sz, or the “gold-hill temple,” about
40 li S. by E. of Che-ſoo. A fourth and famed district
is Mo-shan, about 85 li S.E. of Che-foo. A fifth is the
124 PROVINCE OF SHAN-TUNG.
Kui-tsz-ya-shan, or Saw-teeth Mountains, near Tau-
tswun. The gold here is esteemed very good, and it is
reddish in colour. A sixth district is on the north of
Tsi-hia-hien. Gold is brought from Lai-yang to Che-foo
for sale. It is found also at Kow-tew, near Ning-hai,
120 li S. of Che-foo.
In one of my journeys having passed through a dis-
trict 100 li to the S.W. of Chu-ching, longitude 119° 45'
E., latitude 36° 1' N., or 100 li N. of Ku-chow,
apparently full of minerals, and having arrived at the
village of Kwun-sae and finished my work, I inquired
of the inn-keeper—as my custom was — about the
products of the district. He told me of a wonderful
hill about 10 li south of where we were, which he
affirmed was full of metals. It was called the Chi-
pau-shan, or hill of the “Seven precious things,”
and yielded gold, silver, copper, lead, tin, iron, and
coal. He further said that it had been mined up
to the close of the Ming dynasty, but was now for-
bidden. Deeming his story to be too good to be true,
I sent out my assistant to inquire quietly about it, and
he returned affirming that the matter was well known,
and that two or three persons independently confirmed
the inn-keeper's report. Though no one cares to
engage in the regular operations of mining, for the
reasons already stated, yet any one is at perfect liberty
to Search the streams; accordingly, every year a good
many of the natives engage in this employment. They
often find nuggets of varying size, which is a great
GALENA. 125
temptation to persevere, in spite of failure. And yet
last year I have been told that the gold-washers made
on an average about one dollar per day in the district
of Tsi-hia-hien. Chinese books also speak of gold at
several places in the province distinct from these, as
Mount Pau, 90° S.W. of Lau-shan; and Mount Sung,
60° S.W. of Lin-ku-hien.
Galena,” or lead-ore, containing lead and silver and
* ANALYSES OF GALENA FROM NEAR CHE-Foo."
Calcutta, Feb. 6, 1869.
To the Accountant of the Oriental Bank Corporation.
DEAR SIR,-The specimen you gave me is an ore of lead, and is
known under the name of “Galena.” I have analyzed it, and found it
to contain,_
Metallic lead 67 per OZ.
Metallic silver 0.26 ,,
Traces of iron and zinc and earthy matter..... 32.974 ,
100'000
In working the ore on a large scale, it would be impossible to obtain
the above proportion of lead and silver. The proportion of lead and
silver would yield in the ton weight—
Lead 1500-8 lbs.
Silver ..... 9°3 OZ.
(Signed) F. W. PETERson,
Officiating Deputy Assay-Master of Calcutta Mint.
Melbourne, Feb. 4, 1869.
I HAVE assayed the sample of Galena” which you gave me on the
2nd instant, and get the following results,
Lead 51 per cent.
Silver 8 oz. 10 dwt. per ton.
Gold ..................…~~~~ Traces.
Ore of this class could not be profitably worked in this colony ; but
1 This specimen was hardly an average in point of richness.
* Specimen hardly an average, taken from near the surface.
126 PROVINCE OF SHAN-TUNG.
antimony in varying proportions, appears to be very
widely distributed over the eastern portion of the pro-
vince. We hear of its existence in all quarters, and
are assured there is an interdicted mine in the hills
close behind Che-foo. We hear, too, it is found south
towards Hai-yang and west towards Wei-hien. A mule-
load of the ore has been brought from King-kwo-shan,
13 miles E. by S. of Tung-chow, already referred to, and
two mule-loads have been got from another place near
Ning-hai. Both specimens were most excellent, con-
taining from 60 to 80 per cent. of lead; that from King-
kwo-shan was particularly valuable, and contained a
good per-centage of silver. In reference to this latter
place, I am told on good authority that while on the
south side of the hill lead prevails, on the north, silver
predominates, especially in one spot. In fact, I was
told that one catty of the Ore sometimes yielded 8 ozs.
of silver; but I do not vouch for this. Again, about
two or three miles south of the city of Tung-chow-foo
a tablet has been discovered relating to a lead mine in
that locality. It announces that the mine has been
closed owing to the representations of the elders of the
surrounding villages, who affirm that the opening of
the mine disturbs the Fung-shui of the neighbourhood:
in countries where cheap labour is to be obtained, as on the continent of
Europe, much poorer ores are worked with profit.
I am, &c.
(Signed) H. D. CoSMO NEwBERRY,
Late Analyist, Geological Department.
MINERS STARWED OUT BY MANDARINS. 127
the old story, which will hold its spell over the
people till the truth enlightens them, and the roar of the
railway engine shall dissipate it for ever.
The European miners who in 1868 went into the
interior to search for gold alighted upon a valuable ore
containing lead, and twenty per cent. of antimony, about
40 li E. by S. of Che-foo. They tried hard to work it,
but the mandarins prevented the natives from selling
them food, and so starved them out. Chinese books
speak of silver and lead at Mount Chi-pau, 100° N. of
Rü-chow; Mount Pau, 90° S.W. of Lau-shan ; at Mount
Liang 60 li N.W. of Mung-yin-hien ; at Mount Sung, 60°
S.W. of Ling-kü-hien ; and in T-shui-hien. Native books
further report quicksilver at Mount Hung, 30° N. of
Mung-yin-hien ; at Mount Sung, 60° S.W. of Lin-kü-
hien ; and at Tung-chow.
Specimens of copper-ore have been brought from
a place 25 li S. by E. of Che-foo, and from the
neighbourhood of Chang-kia-chwang, 110 li S.W. of
Che-foo; and there is every reason to believe that it
prevails there and elsewhere in this part of the
promontory. Chinese books report copper-ore at Mount
Ying-liang, 30 li N. of Lai-wu-hien ; at Mount Ko-
yeh, 15 li S.E. of Yi-hien ; at Mount Chi-pau, 100 li
N. of Kii-chow; and at Mount Sung, 60 S.W. of
Ling-kü. Tin, also, is reported to exist at the three
latter places.
Travelling round the promontory two years ago, I
found large numbers of pebbles in the hands of the
128 PROVINCE OF SHAN-TUNG.
people; some very fine ones, bearing a strong resem-
blance to the cairngorms and stones found on the west
coast of Scotland. There were several varieties in struc-
ture, shade, and colour, and many of them were such as
would take on a beautiful polish. The place where
they were procured in most abundance was to the
east of Yung-ching, on the Sea-coast, at the extreme
end of the promontory. But the most famous place for
precious stones is a hill about 100 li south of the city
of Tsi-mi, long. 120° 32', lat. 36° 22'. This mountain
forms one of the Ngan-shan range, is crowned with
temples, and belongs to a fraternity of priests, who
every year obtain a very large income from the sale of
these stones; which are of various kinds, the prevailing
kind being rock-crystals of various shades, of which they
make spectacles. There are others of different species,
which are used for ornaments. I saw a large purple-
coloured stone from this hill exposed for Sale in a native
hong; it had many features of a true amethyst, though
one or two peculiarities appeared to indicate otherwise.
It was as large as a boy's head, and weighed 12 lbs.,
and, if genuine, would be worth I know not how much.
Chinese books also speak of amethysts in Tai-ngan-foo,
Yen-chow, and Yi-chow.
Marble and Granite exist in many varieties. The
finest marble is found in the Mount Elias range South
of Lai-chow; the next in quality at Yang-muh-tau near
the harbour of Lung-mun ; and a third near Tsi-hia-
hien ; but marble and granite, and excellent building
ASBESTOS.—SULPHUR BATHS. 129
stones, are found everywhere. White and blue limestones
are common in all parts of the province.
The strange fossil mineral, asbestos, is found at King-
kwo-shan, and also at Lau-tsze-shan ; both of which
places have been formerly noticed as producing other
minerals. The natives use it for making fire-stoves and
crucibles, and for other fire-proof purposes. The fibre
is good and very feathery, and by the admixture of
cotton or hemp it has been woven into articles of
clothing. Such articles being exposed to fire and having
all the alloy consumed, afterwards form fire-proof gar-
ments. They are the same as ancient history speaks
of, and such as are used in legerdemain. But the
mineral would make most excellent fire-brick, which
would be cheaper and more durable than any other kind.
This is worthy of the consideration of the masters of
steamers on the coast.
Sulphur is procured in several parts of the province.
I found the natives making copperas (sulphate of iron)
at different places in the valley of Law-foo-ho. Speaking
of sulphur reminds me of the hot sulphur baths which
are found throughout the district, and which deserve
mention as an increasing resort for foreign invalids.
The baths in greatest favour with the Che-foo com-
munity are those at Ai-shan, about a day's ride from the
port, a little to the N.W. of Tsi-hya-hien. But besides
these there are others at Loong-chwen, 60 li east of
Ning-hai; at Wun-shih-tang, 70 li south of Tung-chow,
also near Yi-chow-foo, and at Chau-yuen, 60 li west of
WOL. I. 9
130 PROVINCE OF SHAN-TUNG.
Whang-hien. At all these places there are regular
bathing establishments, consisting of a square tank with
a pavilion over it for the public, which is generally
crowded from dawn to dusk by Chinamen ; and a private
bath for mandarins and wealthy persons. The sulphurous
water from these springs varies in temperature. The
baths at Chau-yuen are the most remarkable ; there, at
one place, the water rises almost boiling hot, and you
can cook an egg in it. One very remarkable circum-
stance connected with these springs is, that they lie
almost in the same line of latitude, though far removed
from one another. Saltpetre is found in several places.
It is produced in considerable quantities in the neigh-
bourhood of Kin-chi, lat. 36° 16', long. 119° 34', and is
found extremely good at Po-shan-hien.
The Manufactures of Shan-tung are various. Chief
among them is that of cotton. This the people spin
and weave into several kinds of fabrics: as the common
cotton cloth ; a thick strong cloth used for saddle-bags,
cash-bags, &c.; cloth woven in patterns of two and three
colours, like our striped shirting, but much stronger;
and thick coloured cotton carpets. Some people give
their whole time to this pursuit, but generally the
spinning and weaving is carried on by the families of
farmers. Woollen manufactures are varied. The most
conspicuous are carpets woven in patterns of several
colours of the same texture and description as Turkey
carpets. These can be made to order to fit any room,
and are often very pretty, and always thick and com-
SILK.-GLASS. 181
fortable. This staple is further used for making woollen
stockings, both of felt and woven ; woollen felt hats of
many kinds; felt carpets, excellently adapted for their
mud or brick floors; felt shoes and socks; and a kind
of plush from white lamb's-wool, which is well finished,
and makes excellent under-clothing. But the greatest
curiosity is their rugs, made of cow's-hair, which are
greatly used by the poor for sleeping-mats. They also
make camel's-hair into hose and mats.
Silk goods are produced in great quantities in most
parts of Shan-tung. The chief varieties are those
from the mulberry-tree silk and the oak-shrub silk : the
former is of two kinds, viz. the yellow and the white.
The most famous districts for mulberry silk are Tsing-
chow-foo, Lin-kiu, Lai-woo, Chow-tswun, Ku-di, Tai-
ngan-foo, Yen-chow-foo, Chu-ching, Ku-chow, and
Ning-hai. The silk is of a very superior quality. One
of the best European judges in China says “ that it is
badly spun, but in point of lustre and elasticity he has
never seen it surpassed.” Turing my last journey to
Tsi-nan-foo I saw silk goods there of extraordinary
quality and beauty. One description was creamy white,
about as thick as a rabbit's ear, and another brocaded
like rich damask. They were used by the high man-
darins in Peking : I never saw anything to match
Among the manufactures of Shan-tung, glass is
entitled to special mention, as it proves to be a most
important article of internal commerce. Long ago it
132 PROVINCE OF SHAN-TUNG.
was discovered that the rocks in the neighbourhood of
Po-shan-hien, when pulverized and fused with the nitrate
of potass, formed glass; and for many years the natives
have applied themselves to its manufacture. I found
them making excellent window-glass, blowing bottles
of various sizes, moulding cups of every description,
and making lanterns, beads, and ornaments in endless
variety. They also run it into rods, about 30 inclies
long, which they tie up in bundles and export to all
parts of the country. The rods of pig-glass cost 100
cash per catty at the manufactory. The glass is ex-
tremely pure ; they colour it most beautifully, and have
attained considerable dexterity in manipulation : many
of the articles were finely finished.
Among other industries may be mentioned the
manufacture of earthenware of all kinds, crucibles for
melting silver, and iron implements. They have also
founderies for casting ponderous objects, such as bells
and cannon. Baskets are made of all shapes, some of
which can hold water. A peculiar industry is the manu-
facture of straw-plait from wheaten straw. This is pro-
duced chiefly in the department of Lai-chow-foo, and
sold at the fairs of Sha-ho near that city. It is farmed
by wealthy men, who make advances to small cultiva-
tors, and thus secure their manufacture, and also keep
them always in debt. It is becoming a favourite in
the New York market, and the export is, rapidly in-
creasing: an effort is being made to get the plaiters to
vary their patterns. Vermicelli and macaroni are manu-
ANNUAL FESTIVALS. 133
factured on a large scale from the small green pea, and
also from green pea mixed with the tall millet. It is
amusing to see bunches of vermicelli drying on frames
like yarn on a British bleaching-ground. It now forms
an important article of export. Fishing is carried on
vigorously all along the coasts, and pursued with great
daring. The Chinese fish both with net and line.
Many of the poor also make a livelihood by gathering
oysters, clams, and other kinds of shell-fish from the
rocks, when the tide is out. There are several varieties
of fine fish, among which may be mentioned the cod,
herring, whiting, a species of salmon, eels, soles, and
halibut. Shrimps, crabs, lobsters, cray-fish, &c. are
also found. Sharks are now and then seen in the bay,
and black whales sometimes visit the gulf.
The annual festivals of the people of Shan-tung are
many, and the customs observed singular and various.
The first general festival is the first of the first moon
of the New Year.” Immediately after sunset on the
evening previous, they offer up sacrifice and burn in-
cense to the spirits of their ancestors, which are sup-
posed to be arriving. After twelve o'clock, midnight,
and early in the morning, they offer up the great sacri-
fice to the spirits, which are now supposed to be pre-
* The Chinese calculate their time by the moon ; and their New
Year falls on the first day of the new moon after the sun enters Aqua-
rius. Hence the day differs year by year; but cannot come before the
21st January, nor after the 19th February. They have seven inter-
calary moons in nineteen years, and additional days at fixed times, in
order to harmonize lunar and solar time.
134 PROVINCE OF SHAN-TUNG.
Sent; and in the evening of the first day they again
Sacrifice and worship, in token of the spirits taking
their departure.
The fifteenth of the first moon is the Feast of
Lanterns. On the evening of this day the people light
numerous lanterns in their houses; they also club toge-
ther, and discharge fireworks, the display of which is
sometimes most beautiful. But the most novel and
striking custom is the lighting of lamps at the graves
of their departed relatives. A good-sized turnip, or a
thick cake of bean-flour baked, serves for a candlestick,
in which they stick a good-sized candle, and place it
on a stone before the grave. Immediately after dark-
ness has fairly set in, they light these candles, and the
effect is most peculiar; multitudes of pencils of fire
start up in all directions; the whole country seems at
Once lit up : plains, hill-sides, glens, and copses exhibit
thousands of tiny lights. A light suddenly bursting
forth before every grave appears, to serious minds, a
shadowing forth of the resurrection.
The second of the second moon is the festival of the
Spirits of the District. Each village has its guardian
spirit, and a small temple erected in its honour some-
where in the neighbourhood. On this day the villagers
proceed hitherward, and burn incense-paper, present
bread, and worship. --
The third of the third moon is a day of rejoicing,
when husband and wife and families go in companies
and visit each other. In ancient times this used to be
ANNUAL FESTIVALS. 135
the great day for commencing bathing operations, the
cold weather being now over. The next festival is called
the “Clear Bright Day.” It is no fixed day, but is one
of their twenty-four divisions. In 1867, it occurred on
the 12th of March. On this day they again visit the
tombs, sweep them clean, and worship their ancestors.
On the summer solstice they invite friends, and hold it -
as a festival day.
On the fifth of the fifth moon they nail some
artemisia, or thyme, or branches of the peach-tree, on
their doors, invite guests, and eat the glutinous rice-pie,
in memory of the famous mandarin who tried to induce
the Emperor of the Tsoo Kingdom, called Whai, to rule
justly, but failing, drowned himself in a well, with a
stone round his neck. The people threw their pies into
the well after him, and their posterity eat rice-pies in
commemoration of his virtues. -
The sixth of the sixth moon is also a festival day,
when good housewives always try to have something
special for dinner. On the seventh of the seventh
moon girls worship the “star which rules over weaving,”
and try to thread their needles in darkness. They also
have feasts, and eat special food. They use the tender
blades of the small green bean to sacrifice to the above
spirit.
On the fifteenth of the seventh moon sacrifice to
ancestors again is made in houses and ancestral temples.
The farmers on this day also sacrifice to the spirit of the
horse, the spirit of the cow, and the spirit of the hills.
136 PROVINCE OF SHAN-TUNG.
The fifteenth of the eighth moon (the Middle of
Autumn festival) is a day for inviting guests, when care
is taken to have a particular cake, called the “moon-
cake,” which among these people is as indispensable as
plum-pudding or mince-pies with the English at Christ-
mas. It is not unlike Scotch shortbread. Some also
sacrifice to the moon on this day. The temples are
visited, and plays acted in public.
The ninth of the ninth moon is a festival connected
with their Yin and Yang superstition. The literati
ascend lofty hills, and amuse themselves on this day
in memory of a famous Emperor of the Han dynasty,
who fled to the hill-tops to escape a great calamity
which occurred in his household.
On the first of the tenth moon they again visit the
tombs, and offer sacrifice.
On the day of the winter solstice the Emperor
proceeds to the Temple of Heaven, and offers up thanks-
giving and sacrifices to God. Great criminals are also
executed on this day, and it is, therefore, regarded with
much solemnity.
The eighth of the twelfth moon is a day when they
feast each other, and also offer up thanksgivings for the
mercies of the year.
The twenty-third of the twelfth moon.—On this
day they offer sacrifices to the “Spirit of the Kitchen.”
The idea is, that on this day the Spirit of the Kitchen
gains an audience with the Supreme God, and narrates
the affairs of the household during the past year. Some
THE ‘‘WHE.” 137
offer wine to the spirit, that he may be intoxicated, and
so be unable to give a faithful narrative; and others
good Soup, to induce him to give a flattering account.
So much for this portion of Shan-tung ; but each
district has its own superstitions. I will not enter
into further details. Readers who wish a fuller account
of their festivals may consult Doolittle's “Social Life
of the Chinese.”
Among multitudes of superstitious practices of a
different kind, I may notice one which compels the
attention of every visitor, viz. the “Whe.” At the
beginning of the year, when the farmers and their
labourers have not much to do, they get up grand
processions in their respective districts, and with idols,
men fantastically dressed, drums, and musical instru-
ments of all kinds, proceed to favourite temples, and
make a great worshipping. They afterwards go round
for subscriptions to defray the expenses, and, as they
generally receive more than the show costs them, they
make a little money. Thus John Chinaman makes gain
out of his holiday time and religious services.
I may here add that, having travelled through this
province in every direction, and visited all the chief
cities and almost all places of any importance, Save a
corner towards the north-west, I have found the people
civil and inoffensive; but curious and greedy, with a
little spice of the anti-foreign element: also, like other
Chinamen, morally false and foul.
( 138 )
CHAPTER VIII.
PROVINCE OF CHIH-III.
Boundaries—Surface — Area and Population — Climate—Seasons —
Geology—Minerals and Mining—Coal Districts—Iron—Silver—
Hot Springs–Lakes and Rivers—Industrial Pursuits.
THE province of Chih-li is bounded on the north by the
Great Wall; on the south partly by Shan-tung, and
partly by Honan ; on the west by Shan-si; and on the
east by the Gulf of Pe-chih-li and Shan-tung. It is
very irregularly shaped—a narrow slip of country pro-
jecting southwards, and nearly reaching the Yellow
River; but the bulk of the province lies within 37° 30'
and 40° 30' N. lat., and 114° 30' and 118° 2' E. long.
More than two-thirds of the province is a plain formed
by delta deposits. The mountainous districts lie on the
western edge of the province and northwards of the 40th
degree of north latitude. Its area comprises 58,949
English square miles and the population is estimated at
28,000,000. The great bulk of the people are Chinese ;
but the proportion of Mohammedans is much greater
than in Shan-tung. The latter are found in almost
CLIMATE. 139
every chief town, and there are many villages composed
exclusively of these religionists.
The land being chiefly level, the extremes of climate
are very marked. The accompanying table will speak
for itself.
TIEN-TSIN, FROM DR. LAMPREY’s SELF-REGISTERING
THERMOMETER.
T HERMoMETER (FAHB).
1861. e * {- ºr
Maximum. Minimum.
Deg. Deg.
January 38 0-8
February .......................................... 46 1°5
March ............ ..... 68 18
April 87 35
May ............ 94. 41
June 107 53
July 108 61
August 100 60.5
September 92 40
October 77 40
November 42 17.5
December 50 3
These figures are sufficiently expressive, but they
fail to convey a true idea of the character of the climate.
Not only does the thermometer range from 108° in
summer to 8° below zero in winter, but the heat and
discomfort are greatly heightened by the absence of all
modifying circumstances. In summer there are no
clouds to veil the sun, no hills to break the monotony
of the landscape, not even trees sufficient to form a
shade; but a general blaze of heat on all sides. In
winter again the same monotony is equally felt ; not a
blade of grass is then to be seen, nor a green tree, only
140 PROVINCE OF CHIH-LI.
a cypress here and there : it is just one dreary extent of
plain, covered in some places by that Saline exudation
So common in the North of China ; or, where that does
not exist, by hoar-frost equally cheerless. There is
nothing for the eye to rest on in any direction save
mud graves, mud towns, surrounded by mud walls and
enclosing mud houses. Add to this earthy appearance,
the crouching and cold looks of the natives as they
rush from house to house, and the whole induces a
feeling more uncomfortable than the mere temperature
warrants. Moreover, the sand-storms which occur both
in Summer and winter greatly augment the discomfort
which prevails. In winter these storms come with keen
north winds, and in summer they are carried along with
fury, darkening the sky and filling every place with
Sand.
Autumn and spring are pleasant enough, as far
as they can be in so monotonous a country. The
change that occurs in spring is wonderful : in a few
days everything seems to rush up at once. In autumn
the abundance of the crops, especially the tall millet,
waving several feet overhead, takes the place of woods,
and enables one to forget the dreariness of winter,
the fierce relentless blaze of the summer sun, and the
furnace-like heat of the burnt-up soil. Snow does not
fall to any great extent in winter. There are no fixed
rainy seasons; but the preponderance of rain occurs
about the close of March, or beginning of April, also in
July and September. These remarks of course refer
MINERALS.–COAL. 141
only to the centre and south of Chih-li. Among the
mountains the climate resembles Southern Manchuria,
elsewhere described.
The plain of Chih-li is tertiary deposit, and in
reference to the hills on the north and west, Pum-
pelly tells us that limestone, volcanic rocks, granite
rocks, and metamorphic schist prevail. He says the
limestone is generally blue and compact, varying with
white saccharoid, black, pink, and dark red. The lime-
stone is several thousand feet thick. In the basin of
Suien-wha-foo the limestone is highly silicious and white
in colour. This formation furnishes the lime and also
the several varieties of marble used for so many orna-
mental purposes in the North of China. It is extremely
hard and durable, and takes a fine polish ; but the black
variety surpasses all in durability. There are several
caves of great interest in this formation. Chief among
them is the Cave at Fang-shan, with its stalagmite floor
and roof of pendent stalactites, containing fossil bones,
&c. Pumpelly further observes that the granite and
metamorphic schists form the foundation of the lime-
stone and volcanic rocks, and the limestone forms the
floor of the coal-measures.
Coal is found in several places in the north and west
of Chih-li. Pumpelly has visited some of the coal-
producing localities, and gives it as his opinion that the
coal-measures remain intact under the whole delta, from
Shan-tung to the mountains on the north and west of
Chih-li, and that the various coal-producing districts
142 PROVINCE OF CHIH-LI.
are probably only “arms of a larger basin concealed
under the younger deposits.””
First and chief among the coal-producing districts is
Chai-tang. In this neighbourhood, within a very limited
area, is a considerable variety of coal. Pumpelly has
visited this district, and given a careful report of the
kinds in his work,” to which we beg to refer the reader
for details, confining ourselves here to a bare abstract.
The Fu-tau mine is 5 li or 13 miles S.S.E. of
Chai-tang. The coal has a brilliant lustre, well-defined
layers, tendency to cubical fracture, ignites quickly,
burning with a long flame and little Smoke, opening
slightly. It burns without caking, and leaves very little
grey ash.
DRY ASSAY, BY MR. PUMPELLY.
Specific gravity I-31
Parts of lead reduced from oxide by 1 part of coal..... 31°50
Corresponding value in units of heat .............................. 7245-00
Ash ........... 4°00
The Hsing-shui mine is 5 li N.W. of Chai-tang.
Coal having no lustre, and an irregular flakey structure;
it ignites quickly, burns with a long flame, cakes readily,
and leaves red ash. It makes very light and porous
coke.
Specific gravity ......…...................... 1.28
Parts of lead, &c.................................... 31 “40
|Units of heat 7222'00
Ash 3° 00
* See his contributions on China and Japan, published by the
Smithsonian Institution of America; also see his recent work, “Across
America and Asia.”
COAL-MINES. & 143
The Ta-tsau mine, 15 li S.W. of Chai-tang, is a
great seam of anthracite, or rather consists of two seams
separated by about 8 feet of sandstone; the upper seam
is from 23 to 35 feet thick, the lower from 7 to 18 feet.
Six-tenths of this coal is of superior quality. It is
found in large firm pieces and well-defined layers,
and has a conchoidal fracture and brilliant metallic
lustre.
Specific gravity...................................... º I ‘55
Parts of lead 33°40
Units of heat 7.682-00
Ash, grey * * * 4'00
The Ching-shui mines, 15 li W.N.W. of Chai-tang,
in the midst of porphyry mountains.—This coal is
very bituminous, very brilliant, clean and firm, breaking
with a cubical fracture. It is very inflammable, melts
and cakes, has a long flame, and leaves considerable
ash.
Specific gravity …, 1°38
Parts of lead 29'00
Units of heat 6670.00
Ash 12:00
The seam is 7 to 8 feet thick; is best in the centre,
and improves as the depth increases. The fuel from
this place is used in the tile-glazing establishments of
Peking.
The second great coal-producing district is Fang-
shan. The first place is near the city of that
name. All the coal in this neighbourhood is anthra-
cite. There are several seams of varying thickness.
144 PROVINCE OF CHIH-LI.
The lowest is the best.
The coal is fiable and
flakey.
Specific gravity ................................... I '86
Parts of lead 27-70
Units of heat 6371°00
Ash 15'00
The second locality is at Chang-kau-yu, 25 li W. by
N. of Fang-shan : there is another mine, where the coal
is hard lustreless anthracite, in layers, with irregular
fracture.
Specific gravity I-80
Parts of lead 31°50
Units of heat 724.5'00
Ash 5-50
The third district is at Mun-ta-kau. Here there
are said to be thirteen seams of anthracite, the most
of which have been worked since the Ming dynasty.
Of these the Teh-yeh mine is worked for a horizontal
distance of 8,500 feet. The coal is anthracite, dull, and
hard. It is made up of layers, and flies to pieces in
burning.
Specific gravity 1-70
Parts of lead 31:00
Heat 7 130'00
Ash 7:00
Specimens of these coal districts have also been
analyzed by Mr. J. A. McDonald, of Yale College, at
the request of Mr. Pumpelly; and, as the analyses were
made with all the appliances of modern investigation,
we likewise subjoin them :—
COAL.
MR. McDon ALD’s ANALYSES.
I. Ta-tsau Mine, 43 feet seam :—
Carbon 89'81
Wolatile matter 3°08
Water 2.67
Ash 4'44
II. Fu-tau Mine, 1% S.S.E. of Chai-tang :-
Carbon 85-77
Volatile matter 11°94
Water •35
Ash 1°94
III. Ching-shui mine, 4% miles W.N.W. of Chai-tang :-
Carbon 81°32
Volatile matter 5'62
Water •36
Ash 12*70
IV. Ta-shi-tung mine, near Fang-shan :-
Carbon 86°62
Volatile matter 4'64
Water 2°64
Ash 6'10
V. Another mine near Fang-shan. Hard anthracite :-
Carbon 90°02
Volatile matter 2’68
Water 2-20
Ash 5-10
VI. Ying-wo mine, Fang-shan. Soft crumbling anthracite :-
Carbon 77.58
Volatile matter 3°63
Water 2°50
Ash 16'29
VII. Teh-yeh mine, near Mun-ta-kau :—
Carbon 80-75
Volatile matter 5*43
Water 4'42
Ash 11'40
WOL. I. - 10
146 PROVINCE OF CHHH-LI.
We have given these details and analyses of the
coal of these districts, because they are the only
Scientific analyses of North China coal we have met
with ; and because they serve as a guide to the other
districts not yet investigated, for the coal in many other
places in Shan-tung, Shan-si, and Chih-li is equally
various in kind and rich in quality.
A fourth coal-producing district lies in the neigh-
bourhood of the city of Kai-ping, south-east of Yung-
ping-foo, in the north-west of the province. Coal
from this place has been tested for steam-boats and
given great satisfaction.*
A fifth great coal-producing district lies on the east
of the River Lan-ho, on the north of the Great Wall, not
far from the village of Tsing-ho-kin. This coal has
also been tried for steam-boats, and found excellent.
A sixth district lies on the great highway to Kalgan,
at the hill called the Ki-ming-shan, on the east of
Suien-wha-foo. Besides these, there are other places of
less note.
Not only is there abundance of coal; there is also
plenty of iron-ore, some of which is magnificent in
quality. Iron-ore of very serviceable quality is found at
Ching-shui, near the bituminous coal-mine four miles
and a half W.N.W. of Chai-tang; at Mount Mang,
four miles and a half N.E. of Tsieu-ngan-hien, near
the River Lan-ho, in the north-west of the province ;
at Mount Tsze, four miles and a half W. of Lu-lung-
* See Appendix, Vol. II.
IRON.—SILVER.—HOT SPRINGS.–LAKES. 147
hien, which lies S.E. of Yoong-ping-foo; at Lung-mun,
N.W. of Suien-wha-foo, near a pass of the Great Wall
—the ore here is the black oxide of iron ; in the S.E.
of the province in the department of Shun-ti-foo, twelve
miles W. of Sha-ho-hien ; the black oxide of iron occurs
also at Tse-chu, on the edge of Honan, S.W.of Quang-
ping-foo. -
Silver is found near Ching-shui, on the N.N.W. of .
Chai-tang, and is reported in many other places, viz. –
at 130 li or forty miles N.W. of Tsieu-ngan-hien just
referred to ; at Mount Tsu, four miles and a half W. of
Lu-ling-hien, with gold and iron ores; at Mount Yin-yen,
four miles and a half S. of Mi-yun-hien, N.E. of Peking;
also at Sr-lin, 100 li N.E. of Mi-yun; and at Yuh-
wang, 90 li N.E. of Fu-ning-hien. Tin is said to be
found in Tsieu-ngan-hien, and also in the country of
the Kar-chin, in Mongolia.
Hot and warm springs are very common at the foot
of the hills along the northern and western edge of the
province, and like those elsewhere are frequented by the
Chinese for skin diseases, &c.
There are three principal lakes in Chih-li. The
first and largest is the Ta-lu-tsze-hoo, about N. lat.
37° 40', and 115° 20' E. long. ; the second lies on the
east of Pau-ting-foo; and the third, which is the
smallest, lies E. by N. of Shun-ti-foo, and is called the
Tu-loo-tze-hoo. They lie in a line going N.E., and
nearly in the centre of the province. Great quantities
of rice are cultivated in their neighbourhood, especially
148 PROVINCE OF CHIH-LI.
on that near Pau-ting-foo. Besides these there are
innumerable lagoons of lesser or greater extent in
various parts of the province, where water-fowl of every
wing abound.
In the province of Chih-li there are five rivers which
demand some notice. These are the Pei-ho, the Shang-
si-ho, the When-ho, the Poo-too-ho (wrongly spelt on
the common maps Hoo-to-ho), and the Lan-ho. Regard-
ing the first I shall say nothing, it being well known
as the river by which Peking receives a great portion
of its supplies. The Shang-si-ho may be said to rise far
west on the borders of Mongolia and on the north of the
province of Shan-si (though there it has other names),
and only takes the name Shang-si-ho between the Lake
of Pau-ting-foo and Tien-tsin. It receives a great many
tributaries. One of these is the Wang-niu-ho, or Lu-li-
ho, which rises at the hills west of Peking, and becomes
navigable for good-sized flat-bottomed boats near the
celebrated coal districts of Fang-shan-hien. Passing
near that place we found coal, piled up in yards on
the banks of this river, and boats there to take it to
Pau-ting-foo and Tien-tsin. We ascertained that were it
not for exorbitant export and transit duties, coal could
be laid down at Tien-tsin for about three or four taels
per ton. This river is a great means of transit between
Tien-tsin, Pau-ting-foo, and the west of Chih-li. The
When-ho is made up of the San-keng-ho and the Yang-
ho. It flows on the west of Peking and falls into the
Shan-si-ho near Tung-ur. The fourth river, the Poo-
RIVERS.—FLORA. 149
too-ho, rises at the N.E. of Shan-si, near the centre of
that province, and flows S.E., like the former, receiving
many tributaries. On one of its tributaries, the Ching-
shing-ho, we saw a great many corn-mills, and found
several places where huge reservoirs could be made at
very little expense. This river does not become navigable
till it reaches Hok-kien-foo, where it turns towards the
N.E., and flows in the direction of Tien-tsin, then, like
the Shang-si-ho, it falls into the Pei-ho. It aids in
supplying the central districts of Chih-li. The Lan-ho,
which rises in Mongolia, has a long course, but is of
little value in an economical point of view. It flows to
the west of Zeh-hol and past Yoong-ping-foo, where it
spreads out lazily in its sandy bed and slowly winds its
way to the gulf of Pe-chih-li.
The flora of the plains of Chih-li corresponds in a
great measure with those of the level districts of Shan-
tung, while that of the North agrees in most respects
with that of Southern Manchuria. The only grand
exception is the white pine. This beautiful tree, which
often grows to an immense size, is almost confined to
North Chih-li. I have heard of it in one or two other
places, but never met it anywhere else, except in the
temple of the favourite disciple of Confucius at the city
of Kio-fu-hien in Shan-tung. The fauna also resembles
that of Southern and Central Manchuria. I am the less
disposed to say anything on this branch of natural
science, as we may hope for a work on the subject from
the able pen of Mr. Swinhoe, H.M. Consul in Formosa,
150 PROVINCE OF CHIH-LI.
who has recently visited this part of China, and made a
fine collection of specimens, especially of birds.
Peking has been the capital of the Empire for so
many centuries, and possesses so many features of
historical, ethnological, and antiquarian interest, that a
chapter has been devoted to it, written by one well
qualified to describe it. The other cities are noticed in
the course of my journeys. The industrial pursuits of the
people and the agricultural products so much resemble
those of Shan-tung, which we have already described at
length, that it would be superfluous to recount them.
We may, however, observe that cotton is much more
largely produced in Chih-li than in Shan-tung, being
common everywhere under the 39th parallel of latitude,
whereas the cultivation of silk is in about the same pro-
portion less in Chih-li. There are some kinds of cotton
fabrics and some varieties of carpets peculiar to Chih-li,
but not worth special notice.
CHAPTER IX.
THE PROVINCE OF SHAN-SI.
Boundaries—Surface—Rivers—Lakes—Hot Springs—Abundance of
Coal—Fine Iron Ore—Silver—Copper—Tin—Sulphur—Marble—
Earth and Clays—Precious Stones—Cities—Cave Houses—Super-
stitions—Officials only Inimical to Foreigners—Character of the
People—Exactions of Mandarins—Staples–Cotton—Wool, &c.
THE province of Shan-si is bounded on the north by
the outermost Great Wall, which divides it from the
country of the Mongol Tartars; on the east by Chih-li ;
on the south partly by Honan and partly by the Yellow
River; on the west by the Yellow River, which divides it
from Shen-si. It embraces the western side of that
great range of mountains which bounds the eastern por-
tion of Chih-li; the great plain which lies contiguous
to these mountains; another central range ; and the
great valley which slopes from them down to the Yellow
River. It may thus be said to consist of one and a
half great ranges of mountains and one and a half series
of great valleys. In the northern portion the ranges are
less marked, but in the southern and larger half they
take a most definite direction and lie N.E. by S.W.
Excepting the Yellow River, described elsewhere,
152 THE PROVINCE OF SHAN-SI.
there are no rivers capable of navigation. The rivers
and streams marked on the map all partake more or
less of the character of mountain torrents, and are full
of stones and large boulders. They are only valuable
in an economical point of view for reservoirs and mill-
dams, for the latter of which purposes they are taken
advantage of. The Fun-ho, which rises north of Tai-
yuen-foo, and which has a course of considerable length,
is no exception. It does not increase in volume in pro-
portion to its course, and even towards the South is
nothing more than a great uncertain mountain stream.
There are no fresh-water lakes of any magnitude.
The salt lakes in the south are of great value to this
and the neighbouring provinces, and are described fully
in my journey. Hot springs are very numerous in the
central parts of the province, and are doubtless of some
medical value. The Chinese esteem many of them
highly and visit them in great numbers.
The mineral resources of Shan-si are great and
varied.
Coal literally abounds in all quarters, although there
are several places more famous than others. The first
coal district may be said to commence at Ta-tung-foo
on the north, and reaches to the neigbourhood of Tai-
yuen-foo. A second comprises the valley of the Ching-
shing-ho, embracing the coal-fields of Ping-ding-chow
and Yu-hien. A third lies in longitude 110° 45' E.
and between latitude 36° 50' and 37° 30' N. Another
coal district lies towards the west, in the neighbourhood
ABUNDANCE OF COAL. 153
of Tai-ping-hien, latitude 35° 52' N. A fifth lies on
the N.W. of Shan-si, not far from the Yellow River.
And, lastly, there is a most important coal-producing
district on the S.E., in the neighbourhood of Loo-ngan-
foo. Thus coal is found, here and there, all over Shan-
si, whose area is 55,268 square miles.
To show how plentiful it is, I may mention that,
travelling through mountain passes towards Tai-yuen-
foo, at almost every road falling into the imperial high-
way from the north, we met donkeys laden with coal;
and also, on our way through the Tai-yuen plain, going
southwards, on the right hand and on the left, we found
coal pouring in, showing that it abounded. One district
in particular struck us, namely, that in latitude 36° 50'
to 37° 30' N., longitude 111° 45' E. This district, com-
mencing a few miles beyond Chee-shui-hien, and ex-
tending for 130 li, or thirty-eight English miles, appears
to be full of this mineral. At first, on the western side of
the river Fun, we saw pit after pit, collier villages, and
all the accessories of coal-mining on the hill-sides; and
having proceeded onwards a little, we found them also
at the eastern side, on which our road lay, and passed
them at greater or lesser intervals till we came to Ling-
shih-hien. Three miles beyond this we had to cross the
famous Han-sing-ling Pass, and from the top of the
mountains we could descry coal cropping out on the
hill-sides all around, as if courting the hand of man to
come and take it. This place was particularly interest-
ing—-a very paradise for geologists. Like another
154 THE PROVINCE OF SHAN-SI.
Valley near Ping-ding-chow, there was a great variety
of coloured earths exposed to view ; and as many of
the hills were cut through almost perpendicularly, and
the strata beautifully distinct, the sunlight reflected
nearly all the hues of the rainbow.
Of course we could not visit the coal-mines in the
different districts, but we constantly inquired of the
muleteers where their coal came from, the price of it,
whether it was plentiful, &c., and generally got a
Sample of it from them to carry home. Also, when
resting at the inns, we made it a duty to examine the
mature of the coal used for cooking and other purposes,
and to ascertain all particulars regarding it. We like-
wise visited several of the pits in the neighbourhood of
Ping-ding-chow and other places.
To sum up :—Throughout Shan-si we found several
kinds of coal, bituminous, anthracite, and lignite. One
variety particularly attracted our attention, as it was
quite new to us. It was of a clear shining black colour,
light, easily igniting, but emitting no smoke, and leaving
no ashes. It is not coke, but a natural product which
the natives called coal-charcoal. Many of the pits are
ingoes, entering the hills horizontally at a greater or
lesser incline, but a large proportion are vertical pits,
substantially faced with stone and worked by strong
windlasses; some of the former were said to be one li,
or one-third of an English mile in length, and the latter
sometimes as many as 200 feet deep. Generally speak-
ing, the seams of coal appeared to be of great thick-
WARIOUS RINDS OF COAL. 155
ness all over the country. The blocks piled up at the
mouths of the pits, the great pieces on the backs of the
mules—in many cases three pieces serving for a full
load, and two pieces for a donkey—the huge lumps on
the backs of camels, which we often met in the plain,
and masses on carts, which it would take two men to
lift, are the best proofs we could have of this. We
made inquiries as to fire-damp, and were told it was
unknown in the midland districts, but that there was
fire in some of the pits in the north; further, that the
great enemy they had to contend with was water; for
when they dug in a certain length or down a certain
depth, water came up and stopped all operations, and
they had to open a new mine in another locality.
But perhaps the most conclusive proof of the abun-
dance and easy accessibility of the coal is its price.
This, of course, varies in proportion to the distance
from the mines, but at the pit's mouth we found the
price in all the districts ranging from 50 to 70 cash per
picul, or 23d. to 3%d. per cwt. for the best coal. In view
of their rude way of working, this speaks volumes. In
addition to the black coal just described, we found
abundance of brown coal both in Chih-li and Shan-si.
This coal they burn with the black, especially with the
kind called coal-charcoal; the former prevents the latter
burning away too rapidly, and retains heat after the latter
is all consumed. Several varieties are found, some of a
light brown, and others of a reddish brown, and in many
places it costs nothing but the carriage. There are
156 THE PROVINCE OF SHAN-SI.
great quantities in the district of Ping-ding-chow, and
also at Ling-shih-hien ; but whether this kind be of any
great use must be determined by practical men.
Not only have we coal in Shan-si, but abundance
of iron ; a fact apparently quite unknown to Europe.
This mineral is found in many places throughout the
province, but there are four districts especially famed
for it. The first is the district of Ping-ding-chow, re-
ferred to above as producing coal, in which are the cities
of Yu-hien, latitude 30° 12' N., longitude 113° 15' E.,
and Lo-ping, latitude 37° 39' N., longitude 113° 45' E.,
where iron-ore mines abound. The next district is the
neighbourhood of Tai-yuen-foo and Yu-tze-hien. Here,
outside the east gate and at the hills thirteen miles
to the north-west, are iron manufactories. Towards
the south-west of the province, in the district of Tai-
ping-hien, latitude 35° 52', are great quantities of iron;
also in Kuih-yu-hien and Yo-yang-hien.
But the most famed district is that of Loo-ngan-
foo, latitude 36° 7' N. The mines here produce the
iron of which the Chinese make their razors, knives,
and cutlery. This iron is in request all over the
country, and it appears to be as plentiful as it is famous.
Perhaps its fame is the cause of its abundance, in-
ducing the natives to mine it to a greater extent. An
intelligent blacksmith whom we questioned on this
point, said that at Tai-ping-hien and Yu-hien there
was a good deal produced, but not to be compared to
Loo-ngan-foo, for at this city you could always get as
A LARGE BLOCK OF IRON-ORE. 157
much as you wished: it was “to to li hai,”—literally,
in “frightful lots.”
Besides these districts and others mentioned in
Chinese books, I am persuaded that iron exists in many
quarters not yet known to the Chinese, or, if known,
not deemed by them worth working, owing to the abun-
dance and cheapness of that already in the market. We
found iron-ore in several places other than where it is
manufactured. Leaving Ping-ding-chow, and passing
toward Tai-yuen-foo, we found black iron-stone in the
bed of the mountain-torrent. Travelling southward
toward Ling-shih-hien, we found iron-ore among the
stuff at a chemical work on the wayside, and large lumps
of rock full of sulphur, &c. And yet more important, as
we entered the city of Ling-shih-hien from the east, we
passed a walled enclosure provided with a gateway,
marking the place as one of some notoriety. We en-
tered, and there we found a stone standing perpendicu-
larly, carefully set in a substantial Socket, having a vase
for incense before it and a temple behind it. It was
about five feet high, three feet wide, and eighteen inches
or so thick in the centre. To our surprise, we found
it to be a huge block of iron-ore—in fact, nearly pure
iron. We examined it most carefully; we struck it with
several articles, and it rung out like bell-metal. The
tablet at the side of it said it was found by the Emperor
Sui-kai in the tenth year of his reign, in the bed of
the river Fun, which flows through the valley; that it
was deemed such a curiosity by the great Emperor
158 THE PROVINCE OF SHANSI.
Kang-hi, that he ordered it to be placed in its present
position, and called the name of the city Ling-shih-
hien, or the “Spiritual-Stone City,” in honour of it.
It may be meteoric in its origin, though I think this
improbable. I am far more inclined to believe, in view
of the highly metalliferous nature of the district, that
it is only a portion of some fine vein of almost pure
metal, such as is to be found at Canaan in Connecticut,
or part of an iron hill such as exists in Missouri.
Much of the iron produced in this province appears
to be of a very superior quality. The bars of welded
iron have that blue shade indicative of strength and
toughness. They are fine in their grain, and when
struck ring like bells. I brought specimens home with
me of the iron of the different districts; several mer-
chants and others acquainted with metal pronounced the
quality excellent. A friend took possession of them,
and specimens of other minerals, and sent them to the
Paris Exhibition.
M. Giquel, of the Imperial Customs, in his Report
on the Trade at Shanghai for 1865, says of the iron :-
“Some is to be had of excellent quality: indeed, a
certain kind coming from Tien-tsin (Pe-chih-li) and
Wan-chow (Che-kiang) does not yield in any respect to
the best Swedish iron; and we know that a sample
which was sent to Leeds some time ago was returned to
China in the shape of a vice perfectly polished, and upon
which could be easily discerned the fine fibres of the
metal, which was declared to be equal to No. 2 Swedish
SILVER.—COPPER. 159
iron.” There can be little doubt this sample from Tien-
tsin was Shan-si iron ; for there is no iron produced
Inear that city: it derives nearly all its supplies from
this province. The price of iron in Shan-sigreatly depends
upon the distance from the mines, as mule-hire is so
expensive ; but the best Loo-ngan-foo wrought-iron bars
can be purchased at that city for about 2,800 cash per
picul, or little over 2 taels; in English rates about 12s.
per cwt. This tells its own tale. Strange to say, these
coal and iron fields, though noticed in old Jesuit books,
appear to have been quite forgotten in modern times, as I
have never seen any allusion to them in published reports,
nor heard of them in my intercourse with foreigners
resident in China. Besides these districts through
which we passed, iron is also said to be found in
several other places, viz. at Howai-tsing-hien, south of
Ta-tung-foo; in Head-yi-hien, south of Fun-chow-foo;
in the south of the province at Tse-chow-foo, near Yang-
ching-hien ; at Ngan-i-hien ; and at Mount Kiang, 20
li west of Kiang-hien. -
We heard of silver mines at a place some miles north
of Tai-yuen-foo, called King-sau-pu, and also believe that
silver is found in several localities in the south of the
province near Ping-loh-hien. Silver also exists in Ngan-
i-hien. Copper, also, appears to be very plentiful. It
is said to be found in forty-eight different localities
in Ping-loh-hien just mentioned ; in twelve localities
within the district of Kiai-chow; all over the neighbour-
hood of Loo-ngan-foo; in the district of Yu-hien, near
º
160 THE PROVINCE OF SHAN-SI.
Ping-ding-chow; at Mount Kiang, six miles S.W. of
Kui-hui-hien in the department of Ping-yang-foo; at
Wun-hi-hien ; at Mount San-chuen, north of Kiang-
chow; at Yang-ching-hien, near Tseh-chow; and also
at Mount Shi-lieu, one-and-a-half miles E. of Ta-tung-
foo. Tin is found at Mount Ki, 60 li N.E. of the city
of Ping-loh-hien ; at Tsui-yuen in the district of Tsu-
chow; and in Yang-ching-hien, near Tseh-chow.
Sulphur is found plentifully in many places through-
out the province. In the north of the province there is
plenty of fine marble of various colours and of several
varieties, beautifully varied. There is also white marble
in great abundance: some of the hills were said to be
of solid marble. There is a great variety of earths and
clays. In several places we found them making coarse
porcelain, crockeryware of all descriptions; also that
strange species of earthenware, thin and brittle, like
the blackleaded pots so much used in Chih-li, where
fuel is so scarce. Agates are abundant in the department
of Ta-tung-foo: amber is found in Loo-ngan-foo. Rock-
crystals are common in Tseh-chow, and also in Fan-
chow-foo. Asbestos is found in Loo-ngan-foo and Fan-
chow-foo. The lapis-lazuli, ruby, and other precious
stones, are reported to be found in several places in the
province. -
In Shan-si the cities are more numerous and
more populous than anywhere else; many of the
“hien,” or third-rate cities, being more crowded than
a “foo,” or first-class city, of other provinces. The
CAWE-HOUSES IN HILL-SIDES. 161
villages of Shan-si are very numerous; they are
generally surrounded with high mud-walls, and full of
goods of every description, and of people giving not
a few indications of wealth and prosperity. I saw
foreign goods in all their busy cities and markets, such
as Manchester cottons, Russian woollen goods, matches,
needles, &c. &c. I was surprised to find everywhere
such quantities of Russian cloth ; they evidently carry on
a most extensive trade through Mongolia. We met
Russian-speaking Chinamen in several cities: rather
an ominous circumstance. I found also that camel-hire
through Central Asia was remarkably inexpensive,
much less than people imagine.
In reference to Shan-si, I may mention that the
architecture presents two notable features. In the moun-
tain districts we found whole villages of people living
in houses scooped out in the sides of the sandy hills
—veritable troglodytes; and this not from poverty,
for the front of their caverns were often faced with hewn
stone and had finely-arched doors and windows. The
people evidently prefer this mode of living, for they have
plenty of stone, and plenty of money to build houses in
the usual style if they wished. Some of these villages
were extremely picturesque ; there were houses of three,
four, five, and six stories, rising one above another on
the front of a hill. Each story receded slightly from
the one beneath it, and had a sort of terrace in front.
The upper stories were reached by flights of steps cut
through the front ; but where these did not exist,
WOL. I. 11
162 THE PROVINCE OF SHAN-SI.
the occupants ascended to them by ladders. In the
plains the houses have flat roofs, on which the
people winnow and thresh their corn, and the women
sit at their various employments. Large houses have
often Square towers, giving them the appearance of old
English churches.
The people of this province appeared much more
Superstitious than those of any other I have visited.
Every city and every village, and even every cluster of
houses, has a tower—sometimes a very tasteful one--
erected generally at the south-east angle, as a protection
against evil influences; and, worse than this, we found

FEELING RESPECTING FOREIGNERS. 163
trees in many parts covered with votive offerings, and
before which stood altars and pots of incense, indicating
that they were worshipped : indeed, we were left in no
doubt on this head, for on many of them we found in-
scriptions in large letters—“If you pray you will
certainly be heard.” -
We never were at any loss for food or necessaries on
all our journeys through these provinces; nor have we
ever had the least molestation from the people. They
evinced great curiosity to see us, which often took
disagreeable forms, depriving us of rest and comfort :
on my last journey they actually took out one of the
windows to see us, because I had closed the shutters,
but did nothing further ; and even in the midst of the
greatest excitement to get a view of the “foreign devils,”
as they called us, an appeal to their sense of good-
breeding, or a pleasant word, would allay a hubbub,
and permit us to go on with our work in peace. This
convinced us that the opposition to foreigners, so much
talked of, exists with the officials, and not with the
people; for it seems impossible that virulent feeling
against us could otherwise have died out so soon.
Another most important matter should be mentioned :
we have found our passports omnipotent all over this
country. Whenever we were iſ ally trouble with our
carters, or required assistance of any kind, the presenta-
tion of our passports at the office of the mandarin
invariably procured the help we needed.
As a rule, the men in the northern provinces are
164 THE PROVINCE OF SHAN-SI.
larger and stronger than those south of the Yang-tze-
kiang, but they are much less refined. There are fewer
scholars, and these not so far advanced in their litera-
ture as their brethren in the south ; still there is a large
proportion devoted to letters, and the great mass of the
people understand a sufficient number of characters to
be able to read, especially books in the mandarin
colloquial. All over these provinces they speak the
same dialect, with very insignificant differences; and not
only so, but this patois prevails throughout Kan-su and
Sze-chuen—in fact, over two-thirds of China: a most
important circumstance for those who seek to introduce
new truths and a new literature among this most in-
teresting people. &
I need hardly say that ignorance and superstition
prevail everywhere and among all classes; and if there be
less of the latter among the better educated, a species of
atheism takes its place, which is equally detrimental to
the moral character. As a consequence, the objects
supremely sought by them are the gratification of the
lower appetites of their nature; and as money secures
this and whatever else they desire, it is sought after
by every one, with all the greed of men who have
nothing better to look for, and with the deceit of those
who have no high principles to regulate them in their
pursuit of wealth. Immorality abounds, and opium-
smoking is spreading like some terrible virus through
all branches of the people, laying thousands of strong
men low.
f
SYSTEM OF EXACTION. 165
The Shan-tung and the Shan-si men are famed as
the most enterprising in the north of China. The
latter have penetrated Mongolia, carrying with them a
measure of civilization. Numerous families from Shan-
tung have colonized Manchuria, and are rapidly assimi-
lating that country in every respect to China. But not
only are they inclined to migrate, many are also ready
to adopt any measures which will afford scope for their
industry and ingenuity. Several have expressed a
strong desire to begin mining operations in places at
present untouched; one has applied for foreign cotton-
Seed, another has purchased a spinning-machine for
the manufacture of cotton yarn, and so on. But, alas !
for their enterprise. An incubus rests upon them,
paralyzing every effort. When a man attempts to step
out of the ordinary routine, an ill-disposed neighbour
or a petty bailiff comes in and threatens to inform
against him unless he gives him so much money.
Suppose this rascal's demands are met, the mandarin
next appears with his exactions, and the man is
generally ruined. It is sad to see a people ground
down by such a system, and still more lamentable to
find it pervading all classes and every department
of state up to the very highest position. And this
state of things extends to religions matters as well as
secular. If a man adopt Christianity he is often set
upon by petty officials. This renders it indispensable
in the present state of affairs that our treaties, like
the French treaties, should not only guarantee pro-
166 THE PROVINCE OF SHAN-SI.
tection to the missionary in his labours, but that
the converts also should be defended from obvious and
illegal oppression.
It remains to make a few observations respecting
the natural products of Shan-si.
Cotton abounds in the southern half of Shan-si.
After crossing the Han-sing-ling Pass, lat. 36° 30' N.,
we found it everywhere. Having crossed the Yellow
River at the Toong-kwan, lat. 34° 49' N., long.
110° 40' E., and having entered Shen-si, we found this
important staple growing all over the country on to
Si-ngan-foo, the capital of the province; returning
homewards through the north-west corner of Honan,
we travelled through field after field, and in many places
there was nothing but cotton as far as the eye could
reach. In Shan-si there are two distinct kinds, one
with a reddish tinge and one pure white. We brought
Samples home with us, and the white Shan-si cotton
was pronounced much finer in colour and longer in the
staple than that obtained at Tien-tsin or Che-foo. The
natives themselves remarked this; they said, “Your
cotton in Chih-li is hair, ours is wool.” On our way
home from Shen-si, and through Honan, we met im-
mense quantities of cotton on its way to Si-ngan-foo,
there to be manufactured for the Shen-si and Kan-su
people.
We tried what we could to obtain reliable informa-
tion regarding the cultivation of this plant, but were
not quite satisfied with the results of our inquiries.
COTTON PRODUCE. 167
There was, as might be expected, considerable diversity
in the amount of seed sown and the yield. In some
places we were told that they used only four lbs. of
cotton-Seed to a mow, which is the sixth of an acre ;
and in other places from five lbs. up to eight lbs. to the
mow. In some places we were also told that the yield
was only about 100 lbs. of cotton-tops per mow, and
from this they obtained 40 lbs. of good cotton wool and
60 lbs. of seeds, while in other places we were assured
that they obtained as many as 300 lbs. to 400 lbs. of
cotton-tops per mow in a good year, from which they
obtained 30 lbs. of clean cotton and 70 lbs. of seeds in
every 100 lbs. of tops. One thing is quite clear, that the
quantity of the yield and the quality of the wool could
be very much improved by greater care in the cultiva-
tion. They do not irrigate it, very seldom water it,
and sometimes even plant it without manure. In many
places the seed is put in after a spring crop has been
lifted. But I have observed that the seed was sometimes
buried in manure before planting. Another means of
improving the crop would be the introduction of foreign
seed from America or elsewhere. As far as I know, this
has not been tried in the north of China; but I under-
stand that a small planter in the north-west of Shan-
tung sent for a quantity to be planted. They use the
seeds for oil, and the refuse they employ as food for cattle.
The seeds sell for 30 cash or 40 cash per lb., or from 1%d.
to 2d. per lb. *.
The soil is possessed, in general, by small pro-
168 THE PROVINCE OF SHAN-SI.
prietors, who cultivate from five to twenty acres. They
pay a land-rent to the Government of 400 to 450
cash per acre, or 206. to 22}d. in English money for
good ground. Large proprietors, who let their land,
either receive a certain rent, or a certain proportion of
the produce, according to agreement. The usual wages
paid to farm-servants is 15,000 cash per annum, or
about 31. 10s., together with their food.
Of wool and camels'-hair there is an unlimited
Supply. If one takes a map, and looks over the north
and north-west and north-east, he will find the country
covered with such uncouth names as these–Tow-mets,
Tsa-khars, Kor-chin, Cha-lets, Tour-betts, Omi-outs,
Kar-chin, &c. &c. These are names of tribes, which are
nomadic and pastoral. Their flocks of sheep, oxen,
horses, and camels are innumerable. They trade with
the Shan-si merchants, and no doubt would gladly trade
with us were they acquainted with the advantages of our
commerce. The wool of their sheep is somewhat
coarse, but this could be remedied by the introduction
of sheep from Europe or Australia. We also know that
the camels'-hair which has up to this time found its
way into the European market has been inferior ; but
this has resulted from the knavery of the Chinese, who
have as yet to be employed as middlemen. Were the
European merchant to have access to the producing
districts, I have no doubt excellent camels'-hair could be
procured in abundance. The wool to be had in the west
of Shen-si is very superior.
CULINARY PRODUCTS. 169
The valuable plant, hemp, is grown in almost all
the places I have visited in this quarter of China.
Some of it is very excellent, and may come to be an
article of export. The China-grass, which has created
some sensation in France, is cultivated all over these
provinces, and should it ever come to be of value
in the foreign market could be produced in any
quantity.
Rice of two kinds is grown in these districts. One
kind is the “wet-soil rice,” such as is common in the
South. It is reared plentifully near Hoa-chow and in
the south of Shan-si. The other kind is the “dry-Soil
rice ’’ spoken of before. It is sown in spring, like
wheat, and never irrigated. It abounds all over the
country, and the rice is white and wholesome. Oats are
grown in the north of Shan-si, in Mongolia, and also in
the east of Manchuria.
Of vegetables there is no end : cabbages, turnips,
carrots, vegetable-marrows, melons, cucumbers, onions,
tomatos, lettuces, celery, beetroot, spinach, &c. abound,
and what will please Europeans best, most excellent
mealy potatoes, which we found to our delight in the
northern half of Shan-si. It may interest some to
know that we found wild raspberries and strawberries in
Shan-si, and also a species of whortleberry, or blaeberry,
on a good-sized bush, and not on a low shrub as in
Scotland.
( 170 )
CHAPTER X.
PROVINCES OF SHEN-SI, KAN-SU, AND HONAN.
Coal—Iron—Gold—Silver—Copper—Quicksilver—Tin, &c.
OF these provinces I have not seen much; the pro-
vincial capital, Si-ngan-foo, being the limit of my
journey, and the north-west corner of the latter being
the only portion visited by me. What I saw, and the
information I gathered, will be found in my Journeys.
Here I shall only detail a few items in reference to
minerals, which are enumerated in reliable native books;
also noticed by Pumpelly. In reference to the province
of Shen-si, coal is found in several localities. There are
several varieties, as in the adjoining provinces. Iron is
reported as being found at Mount Ti-ling, 54 miles N.E.
of the city of Shang-chow; at Lung-chow and Mei-hien,
in the department of Fung-tsiang-foo; in Han-chung-
foo, at Mount Lo-tsung, N.W. of Sia-yang-hien ; at
Mount Tieh, 1% miles N. of Mien-hien ; in Tsun-ku-
hien ; in Chung-pu-hien ; and at E-kuin-hien in the
department of Fu-chow. -
Gold is said to be obtained from the sand of most
of the streams and rivers of that province and Kan-su,
MINERALS. 171
especially near Lan-chow. The Jesuit fathers say that,
in former times, an infinite number of persons made
their livelihood by searching the sands. Silver ore is
reported at Mount Tsung-nau, 15 miles S. of the city of
Si-ngan-foo, in company with iron and jade stone ; at
Mount To, 90 li S.W. of Shang-chow; and at Mount
Sze-ni, N.W. of Lia-yang-hien, near Shang-chow.
Copper is also found at Mount Tsung-nau, just named ;
at a place 25 miles S.E. of Shang-chow; at Si-ung-hien,
15 miles S.E. of that city; and at Mount Ching-liu,
14 miles E. of Hing-ngan-foo. Quicksilver occurs at
Mount Yih, 18 miles E. of Shang-chow; at Mount Sze-
ni, N.W. of Lia-yang-hien ; and at Mount Shui-yin, 45
miles N.E. of Sin-yang-hien. Tin also is found at
Mount Toa, 28 miles S.W. of Shang-chow. Jade is
very common in the departments of Si-ngan-foo, and
Shang-chow, and Hing-ngan-foo. Agates are found in
Ria-chow. Amber is obtained in many localities in
Han-chung. Iron pyrites and sulphur are found in Fu-
chow. Petroleum oil is reported as in use in the north-
east of the province.
The minerals in the province of Kan-su are many
and valuable; I have not visited it, but give a brief
summary. Gold is common in the majority of the
streams. Silver and copper are found in Ping-liang-hien,
and also in Wha-ting-hien, both in the department of
Ping-liang-foo; and at Mount Ning-kwhei, 9 miles S.
of Ning-yuen, in Kung-chang-foo.
172 PROVINCES OF SHEN-SI, KAN-SU, AND HONAN.
Silver is found at Yin-yu, 22 miles N.W. of Wan-
hien, with quicksilver; at Mount Ta-yang, 15 miles
N.E. of Tsing-ngan-hien ; at Mount Sung-kia, 28 miles
N.E. of Liang-tang-hien ; and in Tsing-shui-hien.
Copper is also reported at Tsing-ngan-hien in Tsin-
chow. Iron is found in several places in Ping-liang-
foo; at Mount Tieh-yang, 35 miles south of Ming-yuen-
hien ; at Mount Ning-kwhei, 9 miles south of Ning-
yuen-hien ; at several localities in Tsu-chow ; at Mount
Hung-ling, 5 miles N. of Ngan-wha-hien in King-yang-
foo; and in Ning-hia-foo. Agates, realgar, and nitre
are common throughout the province.
( 173 )
CHAPTER XI.
THE TERRACE DEPOSITS IN NORTH CHINA.
Calcareous Loam—Where Found—-Theory of Pumpelly as to its Forma-
tion—Similar Deposits found in other Places—Houses Excavated
in the Sides of Cuttings--Striking Features of the Terraced Hills
—Magnificent Scenery—Village cut out of a Sand-hill—Bright
Colours of the Strata—Extent of the Terrace Deposits and Cuttings
—The Author’s Theory—Ancient Chinese Tradition of the First
Great Flood—Its date Corresponds to that of the Noachian Deluge
—Early Physical Condition of North China.
PUMPELLY has made some very interesting observations
on the early condition of the north of China, which I am
happy to be able to corroborate and extend. In his
journeys along the north of Chih-li and the extreme
north of Shan-si, he met with a strange deposit exposed
to view on the hill-sides, and also cut open by the carts,
&c. It consisted of calcareous loam, in the form of
impalpable powder, easily crushed between the fingers,
but yet so firm in situ, that the vertical cliffs were
so hard as to permit the excavation of regular houses,
which, in some cases, formed villages. He found the
loam occurring in the valley of every tributary of
the Yang-ho, and probably of the San-kang-ho ; in the
terraces between Cha-tan and Ki-ming; also in the
174 THE TERRACE DEPOSITS IN NORTH CHINA.
valley from Pau-ngan-chow to Ta-tung-foo; in the
valley of Swuin-wha-foo; in the valley of the Si-wan
Creek; in the valley of Hwai-ngan; in the country
between Tien-chung and Yang-kau, and in the plain of
Rir-noor. He also adduces Huc to show that it occurs
in the land of the Ortous, within the northerly bend of
the Yellow River.
He shows, from the nature of the shells, the
uniform character of the loam in the different basins,
its great extent and its fineness, that it is not of local
origin, nor from the detritus of the neighbouring hills,
but is the sediment of some large river, which must
have drained an area of great extent; and he gives it as
his opinion, that the body of water in which this
deposit was formed consisted of a series of connected
lakes several hundred feet deep, occupying the valleys of
the San-kang-ho, the Yang-ho, and Si-ho, and which
stood at a level sufficiently high to cover the low water-
sheds between the three streams. He also says he can
trace some of the more important islands that were
isolated by these lakes, as, for instance, the hilly country
between the Yang-ho and the San-kang-ho. He further
says, that the water which filled these lakes must have
come from the west, and could have been no other than
that of the Yellow River, and intimates that there were
only two channels by which the drainage of all this area
could find its way to the Yellow Sea—namely, the Yang-
ho gorge in the east, which opens on the plain of Peking,
and the deeply-cut channel through which the Yellow
TERRACE DEPOSITS ELSEWHERE. 175
River now flows between Shan-si and Shen-si, and con-
cludes with the remark that “whether both these outlets
existed during the lake period, or only one of them, is a
question of much interest.”
The following observations may assist in throwing
Some light on this subject:-
I have been over a portion of the ground indicated
above, and know well the terrace deposits alluded to ;
I have found the same deposits in other parts of Chih-li
and Shan-tung, throughout the southern portion of
Shan-si, and in many other places where he has not
been. Travelling to Tai-yuen-foo, the capital of Shan-si,
I met the terrace deposit in several places. Leaving
the city of Why-loo, which stands on the borders of
the great plain of Chih-li, I entered the mountain
defiles, and having crossed one minor range, came to
a gorge cut out in this loam to the depth of seventy
feet. This cutting must have been of recent date, for
the signal-towers yet stood on plains far above our
heads. The plain lay east by west, and opened east-
wards. Immediately after emerging I began to ascend
the first pass, called the Toong-tien-mun. On the
other side I came upon a small river running east,
called the Ching-shing-ho, which falls into the Poo-to-
ho, or Hoo-to-ho, as spelt on the maps. The great
highway lay by the side of this river. The hills on
either side were terraced, and in some places crowded
with limekilns, and in other places with porcelain
manufactories.
176 THE TERRACE DEPOSITS IN NORTH CHINA.
As I made my way up the course of the river I again
passed through deep cuttings in the terrace deposit, and
found many people living in houses excavated in the
loam, with regular doors and windows, as above de-
scribed. This terraced character of country continued
more or less till we reached another and higher range,
which divides Chih-li and Shan-si. Crossing this range,
and passing through the second great gate, called the
Pei-tien-mun, I descended to the gate of this arm of the
Great Wall, and after passing it found the hills in
Some places almost perpendicular, and again came on
the deposit, with houses in it. The valleys and ravines
here zigzagged in all directions, obeying the law of
erosion in the loamy deposit soil. Next day, crossing
another range, I went through the Si-tien-mun, or
Western Heavens' Gate, and descended again upon a
rich terraced country. The excavated houses in this
locality were peculiarly tasteful, with arched doors and
windows: they formed pretty villages. In the afternoon
I entered several fine defiles between bare rocks, nar-
rowing more and more into a pass of a few hundred
feet wide ; here stood a tablet, telling travellers to hurry
through, in case of being overtaken by the mountain
torrents which invariably rushed down through the gorge
after rain began to fall. Safely through, I emerged
upon the loamy plain, in which stands the famous coal
and iron district, of Ping-ding-chow.
Leaving this city I crossed the Nan-tien-mun, or
Southern Heavens' Gate, and came upon the same
A DANGEROUS DESCENT. 177
river, called in this quarter the Ping-shan-ho, running
eastward. The road lay up the channel of the river,
with terraced and rocky hills on either side all the way
to its source. Leaving it, and crossing another water-
shed, a country was reached greatly changed in aspect;
many places were standing out like huge pyramids with
flat tops, showing that at one time the level of the
country had been much higher than it is now. Passing
the city of Cheo-yang-hien, a stream was crossed flowing
South-east ; and after passing through several cuts and
terraces and ascending another range, I had magnificent
views of the country, which from several points looked
like a grand amphitheatre, with raised platforms ali
composed of the same loam. Such views occurred over
and over again. The roadsides were very precipitous
and dangerous—not with rocks, but sand,-the inter-
vening places having been washed out by rains, leaving
chasms from 60 to 600 feet deep.
On approaching the town of Ya-ngan, fifty li from
Cheo-yang-hien, another range of hills had to be
crossed, and then our party descended a most terrific
defile, so steep that we had to cog the wheels and hold
on by the end of the carts, lest they should be dashed
to pieces. This defile was cut out in the deposit; the
perpendicular walls were of this loam, and were studded
with the shells peculiar to it. Between this town and
Sze-tieh, which stands at the limit of the hilly region,
the same loamy soil prevailed, with its dangerous ero-
sions and gullies. Arriving at Sze-tieh the traveller
WOL. I. 12
178 THE TERRACE DEPOSITS IN NORTH CHINA.
obtains a magnificent view : a fine plain stretches before
him, bounded on all sides but the south by mountains,
viz. the plain of Tai-yuen-foo. Leaving Sze-tieh, the
roadway lay across the plain to the city of Tai-yuen-foo.
The soil was loamy, and in some places marshy; but
no manifest terrace deposit was met with until entering
the valley of Ling-shih-hien, where it was found in
abundance.
Passing the city of that name, we crossed the
Fun-ho, and slept at an inn, the rooms of which were
dug out of the sand. Our sleeping-place was a long
arched room, the sand so firm that the roof needed no
wooden Supports whatever. Opposite the inn, on the other
side of the road, was a village cut out of the hill-side;
two, three, four, and five houses rising one above another,
giving it a most peculiar appearance. The people
ascended to these abodes by means of ladders. From
this point we commenced a very steep ascent through
gullies cut out in the midst of the deposit. Gaining
the Summit, the country presented a strange appearance.
The hills looked as if cut through with a huge knife;
the strata were finely laid open in some places. I could
count as many as forty or fifty seams of various colours;
in Some places the colours were most marked, e.g., black,
brown, purple, red, and greenish, so that when the Sun
shone on them they reflected the hues of the rainbow.
Proceeding onwards over the range, the same features
continued, and when we began to descend, we again
entered the deposit, and often the road was more than
TERRACED MOUNTAINS. 179
100 feet below the level of the country. Now and then
we emerged, and found the country all terraced and cut
up by tremendous chasms, from 50 feet to 300 feet, in all
directions on the hill-sides. As we approached the city
of Hoa-chow, the road lay for miles in succession through
the heart of the loam, with perpendicular walls ranging
from 80 feet to 200 feet; at that city our party had again
the pleasure of sleeping in one of the cave inns.
Next day we recrossed the Fun-ho, and again entered
a defile cut by carts out of the sand, which continued for
five miles; the walls varied in height from 40 feet to
200 feet. In the afternoon the deposit was again
traversed. Passing Ping-yang-foo and proceeding south-
wards, we went through defiles in the deposit and over
hills, where there were beautiful slate stones of various
colours, as grey, blue, yellow, brown, and black. This
was between Sze-tswun and Kau-hien. Passing the
town of Hoh-ma, we once more entered the deposit, and
found the mountains terraced to the very top, and
crowned with trees. After this a little of the deposit
occurred on the north-east of Pu-chow, but nothing
important till the neighbourhood of the Yellow River
was gained, opposite Toong-kwan. Approaching this
place, we gradually rose to a high loamy plateau, then
descended through cuts in the deposit to the banks of
the river: the cuts were steep and deep and long.
Crossing the river and passing through the city, we
went westward along its banks, through cuts in the
terrace deposit, for about six or eight miles, and found
180 THE TERRACE DEPOSITS IN NORTH CHINA.
the hills on the south of us terraced as before. The
country on the north of the road, to within a few miles
of Si-ngan-foo, presented several indications of the same
soil; and at last, when within two miles of this city,
crossing a river, a small defile was ascended leading to
a higher plateau, on which the ancient capital stood.
On our return journey we again passed through the
city of Toong-kwan into Honan. On emerging from
the gates, and going eastward, we entered deep cuttings
in the same deposit, which continued for several miles.
ICeeping the banks of the Yellow River, we found the
road sandy and the hills on the South terraced. Passing
Ta-tsze-ying, we crossed a famous range of hills, and
through another terribly narrow pass of several miles in
length (say ten or twelve) cut out of the deposit. The
perpendicular sand-banks were from 50 feet to 200 feet
high, and full of the same shells as we found in the
other deposits far away in Chih-li and Shan-si, and also
the same as we found sticking in the dry banks of the
Grand Canal in Shan-tung. Passing the city of Shen-
chow, we turned northward, and as we approached the
Yellow River again entered the sand, and descended
through steep cuts in the deposit to the river. On the
other side, going northward, we found the deposit, which
continued for about fifteen miles, till we reached the
hilly country. Recent information shows that this
deposit also exists in great abundance at Loo-ngan-foo,
and various places on the east of Shan-si.
But this terrace deposit is not confined to these
APPARENT SERIES OF LAIKES. 181
parts; it is also found extensively in Shan-tung.
Approaching Wei-hien from the south, the traveller
finds the road cut out of the ground and banks of the
deposit on the right and left. Between Wei-hien and
Tsi-nan-foo this deposit occurs in several localities,
which I have indicated farther on. We meet it again
between Tsi-nan-foo and Tai-ngan-foo, and in several
places in the central portions of Shan-tung.
These facts throw a new light on the early con-
dition of this portion of China. The attentive reader,
who has also looked at the map, will have observed that
I have traversed the courses of three rivers to a greater
or lesser extent, and, in their respective valleys, have
found this deposit. It thus appears not merely that
there has been “one series of lakes extending from the
neighbourhood of Peking to Ning-hia-foo in Kan-Su”
(as Pumpelly says), which were drained by the Pei-ho, but
that the larger portion of the country has been studded
with huge fresh-water seas; that, in all probability,
the central and fertile portions of Shan-si, the valley
between Shan-si and Shen-si, and a large district of
country in Honan on the north and south of the Yel-
low River, were covered with waters, connected together
by lesser or greater streams: in short, that the courses
of the Ching-shing-ho, the Fun-ho, the Yellow River,
and, in all probability, the Poo-too-ho, mark the lines
of four series of lakes, in addition to the Series on the
north ; showing that they were all, in Some way, con-
nected together, receiving the same sediment, and
182 THE TERRACE DEPOSITS IN NORTH CHINA.
that the source of that sediment was the Yellow River
spreading out from the north-west in several directions,
and flowing slowly through these lakes by five different
channels to the sea. These facts further show that the
present mountain ranges and mountain masses in Shan-si
and Chih-li were at one time islands; and that not only
was the eastern portion of Shan-tung an island, but that
there were islands in Shan-tung related in some manner
to the great western series of lakes.
When was the country drained ? This is difficult to
determine. One thing, however, is clear, viz. that
it was long before the Chinese historical period. When
the ancestors of the people arrived in China, they settled
in Shan-si, and had their first capital at Ping-yang-foo,
and afterwards at two other places in the south-West
of the same province. Again, in the Shoo-king, the
ancient historical classic, part 3, book i. chap. ii., the
Tai-yuen, or the Great Plain, is referred to, which still
exists under the same name; and yet, further, in that
same chapter, the soil of the province is described as
“whitish and mellow,” as Legge translates it—or, more
correctly, as in his note, “whitish and easily pulverized,”
the very words which alone could express the character
of the soil in the present day.
^ An ancient Chinese tradition referring to a time
anterior to their advent into China, and when they were
living on the confines of Central Asia, throws some light
upon this question. It is given by Pumpelly,–Quoting
Klaproth's Ritter's Asien, i. 158,-and is the early
TRADITION OF THE FLOOD. 183
Chinese tradition of their first great flood. They say
that “King Kung fought with Chwan-chio for the
empire of the world. In his rage he struck with his
horn the mountain Pu-chiau, which supports the pillars
of heaven, and the bands of the earth were torn asunder.
The heavens fell to the north-west, and the earth
received a great crack in the south-east.” This tradi-
tion has, therefore, some consistency about it. And it
is certainly strange that, as Klaproth also points out in
Asia Polyglotta, p. 28, the date of the great deluge in
Chinese annals should so nearly correspond with the
Hebrew and Brahminical, being as follows:—
Hebrew Samaritan Text .................................. 3,044 B.C.
Brahminical.….. 3,101 ,
Chinese 3,082 , /
This early physical condition of North China also
explains the peculiar character of the other provinces of
North China, as we have already remarked. According
to the Russian surveyors, Fuss and Bunge, the edge of
the steppes of Tartary is 5,400 ft. above the level of
the sea, and probably about 3,000 ft. or 3,500 ft. above
the level of the edge of the plain of North China.
This depth of soil, of such great width, carried down,
was certainly sufficient—with the rising of the country
previously referred to—to form the plains of Chih-li,
Honan, Ngan-whei, and Kiang-soo. These facts also
Verify and greatly aid us in understanding the prodi-
gious labours of “Yu,” recounted in Chinese books,
and noticed in my Journeys. It would appear that in
184 THE TERRACE DEPOSITS IN NORTH CHINA.
his time some obstruction had accumulated in the
narrow gorge called Hoo-kow, or the “Pot's-mouth,”
70 li S.E. of the city of Keih-chow, in Shan-si; or, as
Dr. Medhurst gives it, latitude 36° 15' N., longitude
6° 5' W. of Peking; that in consequence of this the
waters of the Yellow River had forced an entrance by
the hills called Leang and K’e, which lie on the north-
east of this, in the department of Fun-chow-foo; the
first, Mount Leang, corresponding to the present Ku-gi-
shan, translated “Spine Hill'' by Dr. Legge, and lying
N.E. of Yung-ning-chow; and the other, Mount K'e,
was the Hoo K’e, or “ Fox Peaks '' hill, which lies on
the west of Hiao-y-hien : for we are inclined to adopt the
view of the Sung dynasty interpreters, who say that
these are the hills referred to, and not those in Shen-si;
and also that of Tsae, the commentator, who says that
in ancient times the Yellow River flowed by the base
of both these hills. Moreover, this view is the only
one which affords a consistent interpretation of the
words of the Shoo-king, especially those at the com-
mencement of the second chapter of the third part,
where we are told, “He (i. e. Yu) did his work at
Hoo-kow, and took effective measures at Leang and
R’e. Having repaired the Great Plain, viz. Tai-yuen,
he proceeded to the south of Mount Yo,” &c. That is,
he first removed the obstruction and opened the gorge
for the outflow of the waters; then he stopped up the
new channels which the river had opened at Leang and
K’e; and afterwards repaired the damages which the
THE SHOO-RING AND MENCIUS. 185
flood had wrought in the Tai-yuen, or central plains of
Shan-si. This, in all probability, was the old southern
channel through which it filled the two series of lakes,
whose dry basins now form those fertile plains above
referred to. The great overflow of waters spoken of in
the Shoo-king and Mencius is thus satisfactorily ex-
plained; and the marshy condition of many parts of
the country—also vividly depicted in these books—was
doubtless the result of this, and also of that great former
disturbance of the aqueous equilibrium of North China
which effected the first change in the course of the
Yellow River.
J O U R N E Y S.
CHAPTER XII.
JOURNEY ROUND THE SHAN-TUNG PROMONTORY.
Lost in the Dark—Tombs of another Race—Wei-hai-wei—Kian-ten
and its Inhabitants—Boulders and Granite—Fireworks and Jewels
—Use of English a bad sign—Shih-tau and its Warehouses—Kau-
tswun — Regal Honours and Inconveniences—Sulphur Baths of
Loong-chuen-tang—Ning-hai.
IN these notes I shall confine myself, in the first
instance, chiefly to the route and natural scenery,
noticing afterwards the most interesting objects that
came under my observation.
Started February 21, 1865. I made for Ning-hai:
our road for the most part lay on the sea-beach, and
most enjoyable it was. In parts there were dangerous
quicksands. We reached Ning-hai in the afternoon,
and did some work during the evening.
In the morning started early, my course E. by N.,
and passed to the south of where we were wrecked
when we first arrived at Shan-tung, and reached a town
called Shang-chwang. It was market-day, and so I
had the satisfaction of conversing with many country-
CHINESE TOMBS. 187
people. Thence proceeding, I came to a village, 50 li
distant, called Leu-kow. The country was rather stony
and uninteresting, and not very thickly populated; the
mules going very slowly, darkness fell, and we lost our
way, which was only a bridle-path across the moors.
Fortunately one of the men was an old “rebel,” and
had the art of finding paths; he went creeping along
the ground like a hound. By his aid the path was
regained ; but only to lose it again, and in a more tan-
talizing manner, for the ground was rocky and imper-
vious to impressions. We became somewhat alarmed,
lest we should have a night of wandering in the fields.
After a time one of the men cried out—“Here it is l’”
And sure enough it was a road, but where it led to no
one knew ; there were hardly any stars visible. After
awhile, the wind blowing in our faces brought the
odour of the smoke of “kangs,” certainly never felt
before nor since under such auspicious circumstances;
we almost shouted “ Hurrah!” and onward we marched.
By-and-by the smell became more distinct, and now
dogs began to bark, and we knew we were near a
village. After a variety of inquiries, we were directed
to a miserable hole, said to be an inn, where we found
a company of men playing at cards. There we rested
for the night.
In the morning we set out for Wei-hai-wei, part
of the way by the sea-shore, and through several
villages, and by many tombs of odd shape. Inquir-
ing about these tombs, we were told that they were
188 JOURNEY ROUND THE SHAN-TUNG PROMONTORY.
not Chinese tombs, but were found in the country
when the Chinese settled there; our informant said
such tombs were common in Tung-chow-foo: they
were called by the people “ Moo-tsze-fum,” that is,
“The tombs of Moo,” the name of some clan. On
the hills were innumerable oak-shrubs for the wild
silk-worms. The district was populous, and the people
well-to-do. In the afternoon we reached Wei-hai-wei—a
walled city on the sea-coast, larger than Foo-shan-hien :
many fields within the city were under cultivation.
There was also a hill with temples in the north-west
corner. The inhabitants were comparatively few, and
the shops fourth or fifth-rate ; the west gate was
good, but the other gates were either closed or dilapi-
dated. The town is a seaport, with a good harbour,
the island opposite sheltering it from the winds, and
it is a famous point of departure for junks to Corea.
We found the people civil and well-disposed to our
ministry. We visited one of the chief scholars, and
left on the morning of the 25th. Having proceeded
25 li we came on a fair at Fung-ling, where we halted.
Passing onwards, the road was very bad, and the country
somewhat bleak, but we had glorious views from several
points. We arrived at a village (35 li) called Kiau-
teu, in the evening, and the following day being Sabbath,
I preached all over the place, visited several of the
people, and received return visits. I had large audi-
ences, and found a natural pulpit on a large stone-
bridge. The people were variously disposed, some
Q LI-TAU. 189
decent and respectful, others most flippant and careless,
as if incapable of a serious thought or a straight-
forward action. The village is full of people of the
name of “Liang,” one of whom was lately the governor
of Shan-si. The following was market-day, and we had
the pleasure of disposing of not a few books. Deaving
in the afternoon, we found the country strewn with
huge boulders of various sizes, looking like so many
cattle at rest with elephants among them. We also
found beautiful granite of different colours, blue, green,
variegated, &c. The villages were many, and we reached
Poo-liau-kow, or Poo-liau-tswun, in the evening, having
travelled 35 li according to the reckoning of the country;
as this was far beyond my estimate, Iinquired, and found
that 8 li was considered 10 in this district. It thus
appears that in country districts the length of the li
varies as well as their weights and measures. Next day
over a road hilly and stony, 25 li, brought us to Yong-
ching-hien—a city on a Sandy plain—with tolerable
walls, but no business. Here we saw one of the finest
displays of fireworks we have witnessed in China, and
quite up to the description in Du Halde. This city is
the most easterly in the promontory, and is famous for
precious stones, as agates, carbuncles, &c., which are
found on the sea-shore ; I bought Some, and obtained
a beautiful piece of native amber.
On March 1 we left for Li-tau, 30 li away. The
road was sandy at first, afterwards good, and the country
fertile. The harbour of Li-tau is well sheltered but
190 JOURNEY ROUND THE SHAN-TUNG PROMONTORY.
shallow, and can never be of much use. There are
opium-smokers as at all these ports. I heard English
words spoken by passers who wished to let us know
their accomplishments—often a bad sign ; for English-
speaking Chinamen are generally great rogues, having to
pass through a course not only of Chinese wickedness,
but of foreign wickedness in acquiring the language.
Missionaries do not teach English, because the tempta-
tions of money and good situations are too strong for
English-speaking Chinamen. Besides, Chinamen as a
rule will not stay at School long enough to learn English
so as to read books or speak it satisfactorily ; they
run away whenever they get a Smattering sufficient
to be a compradore, or supercargo, or ship-agent, or a
servant. I heard a Supercargo once raging at his
grandmother for taking him away from school too
soon—just before he could write properly—lest he
should be converted; and assuring us, with the air
of a savant, that “there was no danger of converting
him.” t
Having finished our work, we went on to Ye-tau,
a good-sized village with some respectable houses, and
then left for Shih-tau. The road was good, the country
undulating; we crossed a range of mountains, and
found many village houses built of freestone, and streets
paved with flags. As we approached Shih-tau, the road
was causewayed with substantial stones for one or two
miles; hence the name of the place, which means the
“Stone Road Sea-port.” The mountains around had
RAU-TSWUN. —WUN-TUN-HIEN. 191
fine rugged peaks. We had great pleasure in our work
in the town, and spent Sabbath there. In the morning
I ascended the rocks overlooking the town, and saw
the steamer for Che-foo with mails, the first for the
season, which set all my thoughts astir. I visited
Several warehouses, and had long talks with the shop-
keepers; in each warehouse there was a shrine and idols
dedicated to the god of riches: Confucius tells them
truly that “riches and poverty lie with heaven.”
We set out on the 6th for Kau-tswun. The country
was very fertile, with many villages and a large lake to
the south of the road. The muleteer lagged behind, and
was not to be found when we arrived at our destination;
I sent back, but he could not be seen : there we
were, without bedding, food, or money! Darkness
came on ; and at last, about eight o'clock, he turned
up, saying coolly that “he had lost his way.” Kau-
tswun is a square village, lying low—a dirty place, full of
dirty people. There was a large fair, and we sold many
books; we then set out for Wun-fun-hien. The road
lay over hills, and in some places it was very steep and
stony; we had some fine views, and the pleasure of
hearing the singing of larks. Wun-tun-hien is a small
city, with good walls, the houses rather poor, but business
pretty good. Here we again enjoyed many of the honours
accorded in other lands to royalty: we were not only
“ the observed of all observers,” but had the honour of
a deputation from the mayor and magistrates to inquire
after our health : not a new thing, for it awaits me
192 JOURNEY ROUND THE SHAN-TUNG PROMONTORY.
in most cities, especially if I stay over a night and day.
Here, however, the curiosity of the people went a little
beyond bounds; they tore the paper from the windows,
pushed open the door of the inn, and seemed resolved to
let us have no rest; they repeated words after us, and
carried on all sorts of antics. Some of the literati
came and called on us with the most patronizing air,
as if thinking, “He is a poor barbarian, and must be
treated like a child.” These men generally got their
deserts, and left wiser, if not better, men.
We next came to the village of Wang-tswun, where
there was a fair, and thence to Toong-chuen-tang, where
are sulphur-baths in a hollow among very high moun-
tains, on which we heard the cry of the pheasant.
Deferring our visit to the baths till daybreak, we thought
we should find them empty, but, to our amazement
and amusement, the square stone tanks were full of
naked pigtailed Chinamen, packed as close as herrings
in a barrel, back to back, and perpendicular. Our
laugh did us more good than any bath.
Finishing our work, we went on to Ning-hai; our
road lay through a fine country. There was a steep pass,
on the summit of which was a temple and causeway.
Crossing, we again entered a fine country, and reached
Ning-hai. It was a market-day, and after finishing our
Work, we set out for home, which we reached that
same day.
( 193 )
CHAPTER XIII.
JournBY FROM PEKING TO CHEF00 viá GRAND CANAL,
AND THE COUNTRY OF CONFUCIUS AND MENCIUS.
Departure from Peking–Bad Roads—Port of Peking—Canal Voyage
and Scenery—Magpies and Tombs—Irrigation—Attention of Peo-
ple to Preaching—Purchase of Bibles—Wheelbarrows with Sails—
Yellow River—Travelling by Wheelbarrow—Uncomfortable Beds
—Misery caused by Rebels—City and Tomb of Mencius—City and
Tomb of Confucius—Character and Influence of Confucius—Failure
of Confucianism—Duke of Chow—Tomb of Shaou-haou–Priest-
hood and Laity—Travelling by Night—Tze-loo–Chinese Inns—
Vicissitudes of Travel—Prosperous Close.
WE left Peking in two carts on Tuesday forenoon,
October 17, 1865, and reached Toong-chow in the
afternoon. Our course lay over a flat fertile country,
uninteresting save on account of its fertility and the
active labourers everywhere to be seen. They had
gathered in all their grain crops, but many were busy
pulling up the stalks of the millet and beating the earth
from the roots, with the view of storing them for fuel.
Others were digging sweet-potatoes. We travelled by
a route selected by the carters over country roads, often
through fields, leaving the stone road for his Imperial
Majesty and fine mandarins, who prefer the gratification
WOL. I. 13
194 JOURNEY FROM PEKING TO CHE-FOO.
of their pride to the safety of their bones; and for
ambassadors from foreign parts, who are confined to it
by reason of etiquette. For, be it understood, this fine
highway, once a magnificent road at least forty feet
wide, the centre constructed of huge blocks of granite,
from six to sixteen feet long by four broad, carefully
fastened together, is now a perfect purgatory to those
who are forced to travel over it; the stones being
worn out of joint, and often lying at all imaginable
angles. o
Toong-chow-foo is the port of Peking, where the
tribute and merchandise from the south are landed.
It is most inconveniently busy for the street accom-
modation it possesses. Unlike those of Peking, the
streets are narrow and out of repair. In passing
through it, our carts took I know not how long, owing
to the way being blocked up with gigantic wheelbarrows,
heaped with bamboos, baskets, and such wares, which
almost touched both sides of the street, so that they
had to be pushed half way into shops to make way for
our passage ; and not only so, but twice we had a
vehicle turned on its side and the men roaring to get
it righted. It is amazing that the inhabitants tolerate
such a state of things. Six men could have carried
on their shoulders nearly all the contents of a wheel-
barrow ; yet there were generally two men pushing
it and a donkey in front pulling with raight and
main.
At last we got through, and were fortunate enough
THE GRAND CANAL. 195
to find a covered boat, which we immediately engaged
to go all the way to Lin-tsing on the Great Canal, at
850 old cash (about 4s. 6d. Sterling) per diem. Having
laid in a stock of provisions, we started and travelled all
night. Next day we got on very well, and would have
been in Tien-tsin early the following morning but for
a strong wind and thunder-storm, so that we did not
reach that city till Thursday afternoon. Having laid
in a stock of Scriptures and books and tracts, I sent the
boat forward to the west of the city to wait my arrival
there. After spending the evening with friends, I made
my way, with the help of a coolie and lantern, through
darkness and mud, and at last reached the boat, slept
on board, and was off at dawn. -
We entered the Grand Canal at once, and, passing
a bridge of boats, got fairly off. The level of the canal
appeared to be a little above that of the country. The
tide being at flood, we sailed rapidly through a country
flat and fertile as before. Here we saw a new method
of irrigation, and a very laborious one, by dipping
buckets into the canal and throwing the contents
into a tank, from which the water was carried along
small channels into the adjoining fields. At some
places, where the banks were high, there were two
tiers of men drawing and throwing the water. As
compared with other parts of China, the banks were
well wooded. * -
A sudden noise of gongs and other instruments
attracted us to the door of the cabin. It issued from
196 JOURNEY FROM PEKING TO CHE-FOO.
a large junk on the eve of departure. The crew were
firing off squibs, burning paper, and beating gongs to
appease the god of the canal and give them a prosperous
Voyage.
At night we tarried for a little at a small town
called Koo-liou, and sold some books, but having
promised a few extra cash to the boatmen, we got
them readily to go on in the dark to Ching-hai-hien.
Going ashore in the morning, we found a tumble-
down city, originally not very large. There was some
trade outside the west gate, and having sold a number
of books, we set off again. The canal was extremely
pleasant to sail on : the banks in fine order, beautifully
sloped, and often raised considerably above the level
of the country. Trade is not nearly so active here as on
the canals about Shanghai. When the wind is con-
trary the men disembark and draw the boat, attaching
the rope to the top of the mast, marching in single file,
and often chanting portions of songs to help them to
keep time. Large boats have twenty men or more to
draw them.
Sailing during a good part of the night, we reached
Ching-hien, another city of the third rank, where we
spent the Sabbath. The city is even more dilapidated
than Ching-hai-hien ; the outer bricks on both sides
of the city walls have been taken away, revealing the
mud inside, which gives them a most dismal appearance.
I preached twice in the forenoon: the people crowded
to see us, and I had long conversations in the evening
SING-GI.—T’SANG-CHOW.--PA-TOW. 197
with those on the opposite side of the canal. On both
occasions one of the hearers asked me very seriously,
“What they should do to believe on Jesus 2 ” I men-
tion this, inasmuch as the least indication of interest on
the part of a people so painfully indifferent about divine
truth, was cheering. It was also gratifying to find that
the preaching had been understood. …
We started before daylight and at eight o'clock
arrived at a large village called Sing-gi, where a fair
was being held. Here we sold a good many copies of
the Scriptures and other books. Leaving at noon, we
made for T’sang-chow, which we reached at dusk; I
went ashore and sold a few books, and again at day-
break. Although a city of the second rank, there
appeared to be very little business doing. The suburbs
are straggling, and the city poor. In the old town
there is a famous stone lion which has a great reputa-
tion in the country. Here, as everywhere along our.
route, the houses are all built of bricks: a great many
merely of mud-bricks dried in the sun. All are plas-
tered with clay mixed with straw, giving them a poverty-
stricken look. Sailing on, we next came to Pa-tow.
Here the canal appeared to wind a great deal,—some
places being four, five, and six miles farther apart by
water than by land; but this is not extraordinary
when we consider that the beds of rivers have been
taken advantage of in the construction of the canal.
I fathomed it several times, and found the depth from
six to ten feet—mostly over seven feet. It averaged
198 JOURNEY FROM PEKING TO CHE-FOO.
eighty to one hundred feet in width; but at certain
Seasons it must be both deeper and wider. There is a
current, though not a strong one, flowing towards Tien-
tsin. This canal must have been a stupendous under-
taking, and speaks volumes for the early civilization of
China. It extends from the gates of Peking, through
Chih-li, Shan-tung, Kiang-soo, and on to Hang-chow-
foo, a distance of about 650 miles.
In the afternoon we had a fair wind from the north-
east, but bitterly cold ; at dusk it increased to a gale,
and we had to come to anchor under the lee of the bank,
where we lay all night. The boat was neither air-tight
nor rain-tight; but I hung my water-proof coat on the
windward side, wrapped myself up in my blankets, and
Soon fell asleep amid the roar of the elements. The
wind abated as the day dawned, and we lifted anchor.
I thought it prudent to lose no time, and passed several
places where I might have sold books, so that I might
have more leisure in districts where no missionary
had ever been. Thus we passed Sing-loon-jun, Pau-
tow, and Toong-kwan-hien. At San-yu-ur we sold a
great many books, and found the houses there, better
built and the people better clothed than we had seen
elsewhere on our route.
In the neighbourhood of Pau-tow and onwards the
canal became much shallower, in some places not more
than four feet in depth, while the banks were dilapi-
dated. Some improvement was observable about Tei-
chow, and there were remains of fortifications along the
MOHAMMEDANS. 199
banks. Tei-chow is a large place ; the Southern suburbs
extensive and busy. Trade, however, seems to have
fallen off, as it did not fulfil the expectations we had
formed of it from accounts in old books. The people
bought from us very readily, and I sold a number of
complete Bibles. We passed the night at Lau-kuin-
tang, and, having sailed before daybreak, reached Koo-
chiang-hien. This place has little trade; it happened
to be market-day, and so the streets were more than
usually crowded; but our sales were few. The aspect
of the people did not indicate literary tastes. Moham-
medans are very numerous along the canal. We found
them at almost every place we visited; and, as in the
north, they claimed kindred with us. They called out
“Mussulman’’ as we passed along, to let us know who
they were, and to find out who we were ; and they
bought many of our books.
From Tien-tsin—indeed, from Peking—as far as we
had journeyed, the country presented the same aspect,
namely, that of an extended “carse,” with not a hill to
relieve the monotony; the trees were few, and far from
imposing. When I took a walk along the banks of the
canal, my eyes met the same boundless expanse of
winter wheat, patches of tobacco here and there, with
rows of castor-oil plants to mark off the field. As
we approached villages, there were always vegetable-
gardens on the banks, in which were the fine white
Shan-tung cabbage, carrots, red-topped and white
turnips, thick-necked onions, and a variety of other
200 JOURNEY FROM PEKING TO CHE-F00.
culinary plants. The people, too, have everywhere the
same appearance and follow the same employments.
They are much less refined than in the south, have a
more boorish aspect ; and the shopkeepers are only that
remove above their country neighbours which such town-
life and business habits impart. The shops are very
much alike, -the same articles in stock, and the same
furniture. In several places I found large manufactories
of ardent spirits.
The absence of animal life is very remarkable. I
saw no game all along our route, only a few wild-
ducks and fewer wild-geese. Now and then a flock of
crows appeared, and among them the parson crow, with
its beautiful white neck. Magpies abounded everywhere,
the Chinese having a superstitious regard for them :
they frequent the tombs, and the people suppose the
souls of their grandfathers possess them I could see
no small birds; indeed, there is no brushwood in which
they could find shelter. Pigeons, tame and wild,—the
latter building in the temples, are to be met with.
There was a considerable proportion of horses at work
all along the way; but mules, asses, and bullocks were
found everywhere, drawing the plough or yoked to the
cart. Often we were amused to see queer teams, viz.
a cow, an ass, a mule and horses, and once or twice a
woman, all drawing together; the whole household had
turned out, man and beast. About fifty miles from
Tien-tsin, I saw a great many good cows, evidently
capable of giving a good quantity of milk. There were
CURIOUS METHOD OF IRRIGATION. 201
also plenty of sheep, all of the same kind as at Peking,
having huge flat tails, three, four, or five lbs. in weight,
and many of them with a black head and white body.
Beef and mutton were found exposed for sale in every
place we visited.
A method of irrigation much practised interested us.
A couple of men had a bucket slung between them by
two ropes, one rope attached to the top and the other to
the bottom. They dipped the bucket in the canal, and
threw the water into a reservoir above them, ingeniously
turning the hand so as to dip and empty it with great
ease. Sometimes another tier of men assisted when the
banks were high.
We reached Chung-kia-kow on Saturday night, and
remained there over Sabbath. It is a large and flourish-
ing town, with many extensive warehouses. We found
a great business — consisting chiefly of cotton-wool,
cotton-cloth, felt, silks, and mouth-pieces of pipes, of
which there were immense quantities. Here also we
saw camels resting in an inn, indicating trade with the
north-west. Finding the town so important I stayed
over the morning, and had my reward in selling no
small number of copies of the Scriptures.
- The windings of the canal at this point were not a
little provoking; it was a perfect zigzag, worse than the
links of the Forth below Stirling. I would advise tra-
vellers to take carts or ponies from Tei-chow : a dis-
tance of three miles by land may become nearly nine by
Water. -
202. JOURNEY FROM PEKING TO CHE-FOO.
Arriving at Lin-tsing, we found the old city in heaps
of ruins—the work of the rebels : all the business was
done in the suburbs, which lay on the canal. The trade
appeared to be rapidly reviving—there being many new
warehouses and shops of considerable size—and an air
of activity and hope characterized the people : the line
of shops extended for two miles. The inhabitants
received us civilly and bought our books. Here the
canal divided, one branch going south by west, and
the other east by south. The latter was nearly dry,
and as it was in our direction we had to hire carts.
Leaving Lin-tsing on November 2, we found the
country much more interesting ; but in proportion to
the attractiveness of the scenery was the discomfort of
the journey. Instead of a boat we had a huge cart
drawn by three mules and one horse ; the cart had
wooden axles, and was a lumbering concern, the rough
road jolting us terribly, and so supplying abundant
exercise to our muscles. As we left the suburbs we
crossed the canal, and saw a few small country boats
stuck fast in the mud. Proceeding, onwards we found
Cotton growing in abundance, and whole families, and
especially women, picking the wool. We kept out of
sight as much as possible, for our presence greatly
alarmed the women. We saw large flocks of sheep
pasturing.
Here we met many of their extraordinary wheel-
barrows, moving along on dry ground with a sail set ;
each barrow having a great wheel in the centre, finely
SAILED WHEELBARROWS. 203
balanced. Those we saw were laden heavily, and had
a large sheet of cloth set on a framework in front;
many of these sails were so rigged as to be capable of
being raised or reefed at pleasure, the ropes or braces
being attached to a hook close to the driver. We have
never seen these wheelbarrows without pity; the strain
to the men who manage them is enormous: indeed, we
have never witnessed human beings under such heavy
labour. We met many with fourteen beam-cakes on
one barrow, equal to seven small donkey-loads; and
often saw six bales of cotton on one barrow, though
two are considered sufficient for a mule ; but human
labour is cheaper than animal. In many cases there
were two men to one barrow, one dragging and another
pushing; but, in such cases, the load was increased.
About dusk we reached a village with some good
inns. As there was a fair just closing, we had the
opportunity of selling a few books. We started at dawn
with a guide. Just as the first rays gilded the horizon,
we were saluted by the bell of a Buddhist temple calling
the priests to matins; it was most pleasant to hear,
and called up thoughts of home. Oh, that it had been
to the worship of the “Great God from whom all
blessings come !” Our road lay partly along the canal,
still dry, or with patches of water here and there. By-
and-by we saw the fine bell-tower of Toong-chang-foo in
the distance, and reached the city about 8 A.M. We
found it a most important place, in good order and well
fortified. But the eastern suburbs far exceeded the city
204 JOURNEY FROM PEKING TO CHE-FOO.
proper in extent, and the trade appeared very great.
We have seen nothing equal to it in China, unless in
the suburbs of Shanghai or Tien-tsin. The city is
nearly surrounded by water, partly lake and partly canal,
and has communication with the Yellow River.
Up to this point of our journey we found it some-
what difficult to identify places mentioned in the old
books; but here the country began to be exceedingly
rich in historical associations. This attraction increased
every day; culminating in the temple and tomb of Con-
fucius, though not ceasing there. The city of Toong-
chang-foo is supposed to take its name from a very
famous man called Chang, who rose in rebellion against
Yin, the last Emperor of the Shang Dynasty, and, having
defeated him, took the title Wan (King Wan, of Chow),
and founded the Chow Dynasty, of which his son Woo
was the first recognized Emperor. Tradition makes
him ten cubits high, with four nipples on his breast, a
dragon's countenance and tiger's shoulders. He lived
about B.C. 1100, and was the father of a still more
renowned son, the Duke of Chow.
We left the city, and went parallel to the Grand
Canal, and thus had an opportunity of examining the
sluices: the canal was all but dry. The sluices are
simple enough in their construction, but serve their pur-
pose. We found many shells in the mud of which the
banks are built, proving that the land had been the bed of
the sea or lake; which, indeed, the aspect of the country
THE YELLOW RIVER, 205
and soil left no doubt about. Arrived at Wo-chung, a
village and military post, we disposed of a number of
our books, dined, and again started. Hills appeared.
How pleasant the sight of a hill ! They were the first
we had seen since leaving Peking. We knew that the
famous Yellow River skirted their bases, and so our
enthusiasm began to rise. The road became extremely
clayey, and we nearly stuck fast. The country had
evidently been recently flooded by “China's sorrow.”*
Slowly the river dawned on our vision like a mighty
yellow dragon lying at rest on the flat land. We reached
the ferry and found there another military post. It was
said there were bands of mounted robbers in the neigh-
bourhood. After some bargaining we got our huge cart
and ourselves on board a large flat-bottomed boat, and
crossed to the other side; but not without difficulty.
The boat was dragged up the stream a considerable dis-
tance, and then let go. Several men at two huge oars
tried to row us right across, but the force of the stream
was too much for them ; it carried us down a great
way, but by-and-by we reached the bank, and were
dragged up to a landing-place. I tried to fathom the
river as we crossed; immediately on our being let go
I found the depth eighteen feet, but about the centre
I could not find the ground; owing, not to the depth
altogether, but to the current and the moving mud.
When I first saw the river, with small islets here and
there, I imagined it could not be very deep ; but, after
* A name of the Yellow River.
206 JOURNEY FROM PEKING TO CHE-FOO.
Sailing across, my opinion altered. The deep places in
the river must be constantly changing, but the quantity
of water is so great that there must always be a deep
channel somewhere. Here I had a good illustration of
the way in which this wilful river behaves. As it flowed
against the banks it visibly ate them away; the mud fell
into its devouring jaws, reminding one of cattle brows-
ing on, or a mower cutting, grass. After landing and
surveying the country, I got still more insight as to the
way in which the river worked mischief. The hills are
not in ranges but separate; the country is marshy, and
raised banks serve as roads. I was told that, four years
ago, the river had found its way between two hills a mile
to the south-west, and had flooded the whole district,
and found an egress a little to the east of the village.
I tried to estimate the average force of the current, and
reckoned it not nearly equal to the tide at Shanghai;
a gig-boat could be easily pulled against it, and I there-
fore suppose it may be set down at three or four knots
an hour. Mr. Davis, of Messrs. Fergusson and Co.,
of Che-foo, sailed down the river from Tsi-nan-foo and
sounded it all the way to the sea. He found the
channel averaging from 18 to 26 feet, and the bar
not so formidable as was anticipated; 3 and 4 feet at
low water, and from 9 to 12 feet at high tide. He also
tells us that the bar extended 13 mile and was not very
broad. Mr. Ney Elias has since surveyed the river and
given a full account in a paper read in 1869 before the
Royal Geographical Society.
COURSE OF THE YELLOW RIVER, 207
Our route lying direct through the scene of Great
Yu’s labours, I endeavoured to pierce the mystery of
that flood which has so long interested Chinese scholars,
and which is graphically described in the Shoo-king
and in Mencius ; and also tried to identify the hills
and the rivers operated upon by that indefatigable
minister. The Emperor Yaou thus speaks of the
flood:—“Destructive is the overflowing of the waters,
in their vast extent they overtop the hills, threatening
the heavens.” Mencius enters more into detail, and
says:—“The waters flowing out of their channels
inundated the middle kingdom ; Snakes and dragons
abounded, and the people had no place to settle.”
Some have referred this to the Flood of Noah; but I
am inclined to think that Mencius hints at the true
reason. Consulting old maps of China we find that the
Yellow River first of all flowed through the north of
Chih-li, then between Shan-si and Shen-si, and has
changed its course no fewer than ten times since
B.C. 602; at one time disemboguing itself by the Pei-
ho, at another by the Ta-tsing-ho, and sometimes by
two, and even three, different mouths between these two
places. Keeping this in view, and considering the nature
of the country which we have just described, we gain not
a little light upon the point. The whole district, con-
taining the greater part of Chih-li, the north-western
part of Shan-tung and all around, extending over I know
not how many hundred square miles, is one great plain,
with many marshes, many parts little, if any, above the
208 JOURNEY FROM PEKING TO CHE-FOO.
level of the sea. This river is not only one of the
largest in the world, and the most wayward; it is con-
stantly breaking through its banks, and so has been a
perpetual source of anxiety to every dynasty; great is
the labour and fabulous are the sums which have been
expended upon it. In the Han dynasty—B.C. 200–
A.D. 100—there were repeated floods. A great inunda-
tion occurred in A.D. 131, which took twenty years to
remedy. In A.D. 1344 all the districts of Wun-shang,
Rea-tseang, and Jin-ching were overflowed. Indeed, so
repeated and disastrous have these been, that this river
has got the name of “China's Sorrow.” Now, looking
at the tremendous amount of water poured out by it,
and at the flat and swampy nature of the country, we
can easily conceive of an inundation such as that
described ; the few hills, or rather mounds, would
certainly be overtopped, or appear like insignificant
islands here and there upon the surface of the waters.
Thus the flood can be accounted for by natural causes.
Having again traversed this region, the extraordinary
labours of Yu do not appear so superhuman as they
once did. I used to think that the accounts given of
his travelling over so vast a region in his four kinds of
carriages—a cart for dry ground, a sledge for the mud,
a boat for the rivers, and huge spikes in his shoes and
staves for the hills;–of his incessant toil, passing his
own door so often and hearing his infant child, he had
never seen, cry, and refusing to enter, &c. &c., were
to be set down as romance. But now I do not think
THE LABOURS OF YU. 209.
his labours impossible ; he had the best men in the
kingdom to assist him, he had the full Sanction of the
government, and all the resources of the kingdom at
his disposal; the country, extensive though it be, is
not impracticable ; in a month he might go from one
end of his field of action to another, and thus, by
travelling about, and having the command of all kinds
of labour, could easily complete his work. No doubt
he must have been one of the most extraordinary of
men, clear-headed, active, faithful to the Empire, philan-
thropic, and strong both in mind and body; we see
this even in the brief description we have of his toil.
He did not, like his predecessor K’wan, who had been
first appointed and had failed in the works, dabble away
at the banks and details; he placed his finger at once
upon the sore point, saw the cause of the disaster, and
set to work there. He first fixed upon and mapped
the high hills and great rivers, defined the ranges of
the former, and found out the courses of the latter.
This done, he divided the country into nine provinces,
and arranged how he could most efficiently drain off
the waters. He then set to work, commencing at the
hills on the north-west of China, at a place then called
Hoo-kow, lat. 36° 15' N., long. 6° 5' W. of Peking, in
the present department of Seih, where the river was
manageable; and here he cut off the force of the Yellow
River. He then, to use his own words, “cleared out
the nine rivers and led them to the sea, and deepened
the canals and led their waters into the rivers.” Thus
WOL. I. 14
210. JOURNEY FROM PEKING TO CHE-FOO.
in the course of a few years—some say three, others
eight—the drained the country, and the people returned
to their employments. I also during the journey tried
to identify the mountains and rivers mentioned in the
Shoo-king, as having been operated upon by Yu. The
mountains still stand ; but the rivers are less easily
identified; and no wonder: for the soil is flat and
yielding, and nearly 4,400 years have elapsed since
then. Some of the rivers, however, are clear enough.
The Hang River, and the Wei River in the Kei pro-
vince, mentioned in the Shoo-king (book ii. sec. i.), still
follow their old course ; the former is the river which
flows from Pau-ting-foo to Tien-tsin ; and the latter is
that which comes from the neighbourhood of Hok-kien-
fu. The first is now called the Shang-si-ho, and the latter
the Poo-too-ho River; they unite a little to the west of
the Pei-ho, then fall into it, and flow in its channel on
to the sea past Tien-tsin : we marked the place where
they entered the Pei-ho, as we sailed past it on our way
to that city. The river called the Yih-shui must be an
old name for the Pei-ho.
The preceding notes show that another change of
the course of the Yellow River has to be recorded.
Twice, if not thrice, within recent times has its
embouchure changed from the Yellow Sea to the Gulf
of Pe-chih-li and back again; an extreme range of no
less than ten degrees of latitude, from the Pei-ho, where
we find its northern mouth after the days of the Great
Yu, to the ancient channel of the Hwui.; of which,
“COLD KANGS.” - 211
about the commencement of the Yuen dynasty, A.D. 1194,
it took forcible possession.
Having disembarked, we were surrounded by soldiers,
but with no hostile intent. They had heard that we
had books for sale, and were come to buy. We sold
not a few to them, and to travellers like ourselves on
the banks of the river. We then made for the village
of Li-lieu-kiau, one-third of a mile distant, and tried to
pursue our journey; but found it expedient to desist, -
owing to the roads being so bad. Next day the cart
stuck fast, and we had to give up all thoughts of that
mode of conveyance ; the only other available vehicles
being those wonderful sailing wheelbarrows, we hired
three of them. An officer, a fine well-dressed young
man, came and examined my passport, and was ex-
tremely polite. When our cart was observed in the
mud, with a multitude of clod-hoppers whom we had
employed trying in vain to right it, a small company of
Soldiers drew near and in a few minutes rescued our
precious caravan out of its fix, and, furthermore, refused
any money for their pains, but eagerly took a few books
which we afterwards offered them. Everything being
arranged, we started on our wheelbarrows next morning
at 8.30 A.M. And we were glad to get off; for the inn
was a comfortless place, and we had to sleep on our book-
boxes. The beds all over this district are what are
called “Cold Kangs; ” they are very low, and built of
mud, only one brick above the ground. Of course there
Were bamboo bedsteads in the city nns, but seldom
212 JOURNEY FROM PEKING TO CHE-FOO.
anywhere else. The country people lie on these wretched
“kangs” all the year through. We found our wheel-
barrows very tiresome ; for though one man dragged in
front and another pushed behind, we only went at the
rate of one-and-a-half miles an hour.
At first the road lay along banks raised as a defence
against the Yellow River, reminding me of Holland.
As day dawned we entered a hilly district, crossed
several streams, and passed along the side of a beautiful
lake with swarms of water-fowl, teal, ducks, geese,
and also wild-swans : the first we saw in China. The
lake was the remains of a flood of “China's Sorrow !”
In the genial Sunshine I really enjoyed myself on my
wheelbarrow. As we got to the old level country we
were fortunate enough to have a breeze right on our
backs, which accelerated our pace to about two-and-a-half
miles an hour, so we got to Toong-ping-chow about
3.30, making 70 li in twelve hours. The men said that,
had it not been for the wind, we should not have been
there till dark.
Putting up at a tolerable inn, a great crowd col-
lected in the yard to see us. Selecting an elevated
place, I told the people our errand, preached the
gospel, and then showed them our books; which they
bought as fast as we could sell. Unfortunately, the
other barrows had not arrived, and we had not a suffi-
cient variety; nevertheless, what we had went off
rapidly. After an hour-and-a-half the barrows ap-
peared, and the sale was renewed, and was only
TOONG-PING-CHOW. -- 213
stayed by darkness. Next day we went outside the
city, and sold so many books that we found it neces-
sary to stop the sale, fearing we should not have suffi-
cient left for other places.
This city is on a river, and the country around is
flat and fertile. The farmers were busy sowing wheat,
an indication of the mildness of the climate, and that
we were far south from where we started. Prodigious
quantities of arrowroot were growing. The district was
anciently called Tong-yuen, and is referred to in Shoo-
king as having been brought successfully under cul-
tivation by Great Yu. The soil and its productions
correspond to the description given more than 4,000
years ago : it is still “clayey, red, and rich, and the
trees and grass strong and bushy.” The city has evi-
dently taken its name from that same passage in the
Shoo-king, “Toong-ping,” the Eastern Plain, and hence
called Toong-ping-chow. After the murder of the Em-
peror “Seang,” fifth of the Hea dynasty, the Bamboo
books tell us, that his Empress “Min” fled to “Yew-
ping,” the old name for this place. It would likewise
appear, that it was the birth-place of Shaou-kang, the
succeeding Emperor. In this neighbourhood was fought
the great battle which put an end to the “Hea”
dynasty, and introduced the dynasty of “Shang.”
History tells us, too, that several times the inhabitants
have been driven from their homes by the wayward
and terrible river. One great flood is mentioned in
A.D. 1844.
214 JOURNEY FROM PEKING TO CHE-FOO.
We had great difficulty in finding carts, but having
applied to the authorities, we obtained one late in the
afternoon. As we proceeded, we found the country
more and more fortified : every village had either a
mud-wall around it, or the inhabitants were busy con-
structing one. This was Owing to the presence of
rebels. A few days previously they were within 200 li;
but news had come that they had divided their forces,
and were departing, one division due south, and the
other to Honan. Burning villages could be seen from
where we were.
Next morning we rose at two o'clock, and made for
Yen-chow-foo. At day-break we crossed the classic
“Wun River,” broad, full of water, and well supplied
with boats. It is one of the rivers mentioned in the
Tribute of “Yu,” as that by which the produce of the
north country was conveyed to the river “Tsi,” thence
to the capital. It is also mentioned in the Lung-yu,
book vi. chap. vii., where Min-tse-k’een, not wishing
to serve the Ke’ family, says, “Decline the honour
for me politely. If any one come again to me with a
second invitation, I shall go and live on the banks of
the ‘Wun.” The river was of great use in the Yuen
and Ming dynasties, under whom it was used to feed
the Great Canal. Having crossed the river, we soon
reached the city of Wun-shang-hien. The gates were
not yet opened, and great was the trepidation concerning
the rebels; but after waiting a little we were admitted,
the soldiers scanning us rather suspiciously. Having
YEN-CHOW-FU. 215
breakfasted, we had a dispute with the carter, a dis-
honest and ill-disposed fellow; but things being righted,
we set out, and driving quickly, reached Yen-chow-foo
in the afternoon. As we approached the city, we met
families in carts, some returning to their homes, having
heard that the rebels had left their district, and others
hurrying to the city for refuge; the men walking, whilst
the carts were filled with women and children, sitting
on Sacks of corn, with articles of furniture piled up in
front and back, and the live-stock yoked to the cart.
We saw a poor sick boy in one cart, to whom death
seemed very near. Oh ! the misery of an ill-governed
country ! Meditating thus painfully, my attention was
arrested by a grove of tall cypress-trees, with a high
tablet in front, which I found was the burial-place of
“Hwuy-lew-pea,” mentioned in the books of Con-
fucius. He was an officer of the kingdom of Loo, had
been chief criminal judge in his day, and was a man
of virtue and talents, and famous in China. The victim
of envy, he was thrice dismissed from office. He had a
vein of irony in him—witness this sentence:—“Seeking
to serve men in an upright way, where shall I go and
not experience such a thrice-repeated dismissal 2 If I
choose to serve men in a crooked way, what need is
there for me to leave my native country 2”
Soon the pagoda and walls of Yen-chow-fu came
in sight: I was now approaching the district rendered
classic as being the birth-place of the two great sages
of China, and the scene of many of the more important
216 JOURNEY FROM PEKING TO CHE-FOO.
events in their lives. This city takes its name from
One of the nine divisions of ancient China, into which,
we are informed, the Supreme Ruler, in a vision, told
Yu to divide the Empire. It stands in the centre of the
old kingdom or dukedom called Loo, so often referred
to in the classics. This is certified among other things
by an inscription of four large characters over the top of
the west gate, telling us that to the west lay Chau and
Wei, and we know that Loo lay to the east of these
places. The father of Confucius is said, on a tablet in
the temple of his son, to have ruled over this place in
his time. The city lies on the river called the Sze-shui.
We found Yen-chow-foo more fortified than any
city we had yet come to, with tents on the walls, and
every place guarded. Our passports were examined, and
two parties called at the inn in the course of the evening
to inquire who we were, and how many men were with
us. The city did not appear to be very rich, and it bore
a strong resemblance to Tung-chow-foo. Having passed
a night at Yen-chow-foo, we started for Tsiu-hien, the
city of Mencius, which lies S.E. fifty li from this place.
On Our way we passed the grave of Tan-tai-mee-ming,
who “never took a short cut in walking, and never
came to his superior's office except on business; ” and
also of Li-joh-sz, a man famous in the Ming dynasty:
indeed, almost every tablet on the roadside had a
history, and much could be written about them.
As we approached Tsiu-hien, or Tsow-hien, we were
struck with the beauty of the place. Lying at the foot
THE TEMPLE OF MENCIUS. 217
of the range of hills, its sombre walls and sentinel-like
pagoda stood out prominently, while the hills formed
an enchanting background to the picture. These hills
have a history; that high peak toward the South-east
is the “Yih” mountain, or “E” mountain, spoken of
in the Tribute of Yu as the place where grew that
Solitary dryandra, the wood of which formed part of the
articles conveyed to the Emperor, and which was used
for making lutes. The mountain is famous at the
present time for its supposed natural curiosities; here
is a famous stone drum, another rock in the shape of a
great bell, and yet another of octagonal shape, on which
can be seen the eight diagrams.
While here we proceeded to visit the Temple of
Mencius; no small pleasure to us. The temple stands
to the south of the city, outside the South gate ; it con-
sists of a series of buildings facing the south, surrounded
by cypress-trees, and enclosed by a high oblong wall.
The gate-keeper, a very obliging man, admitted us, and
took us over the entire place. It is of the same cha-
racter as ordinary Confucian temples which are found in
departmental cities, only on a far grander scale. One
of the first things which struck us was a huge tablet
erected by Kang-hi in honour of the Sage. It stands
on a monster tortoise, 12 feet long by 6 feet broad,
and 4 feet high. The tablet itself is at least 20 feet
high, 6 feet wide, and 20 inches thick. The pedestal
and the tablet are each of one slab, and the marble is
beautiful and finely cut. Passing through a central gate
218 Journey FROM PEKING TO CHE-FOO.
and along an avenue of cypress, we saw there were many
tablets in his honour on each side. The Han and
Soong, and almost every dynasty, is represented. Kien-
loong has his pailow or tablet in a pretty little temple
or summer-house. Our attention was drawn to a well,
evidently believed to be a great Wonder by the people,
as it was said to have been made by a thunder-bolt.
We were then shown some interesting engravings on
marble tablets illustrating the genealogy of Mencius
and incidents in his life. -
The main building is two-storied; the tiles are
yellow and green; the upper balustrade stands upon
eight beautiful marble pillars, each of one piece, on
which were cut ornamental gravings. Walking up the
steps which lead to the main temple, we passed between
the pillars and thus entered the great building. Right
in front is a large statue of Mencius himself, on a
platform and enclosed in a gorgeous shrine. With this
statue we were deeply interested, as it is said to be a
good likeness. He was of middle stature, stout, and
having a ready-for-anything appearance, with a round
full face, Sanguine, bright eyes, thin closed lips, and a
large, flattish nose. The effigy conveys the idea of a
man, thoughtful, resolute, outspoken, and experienced
in disappointment and sorrow. In another place we
saw his likeness graved on marble with the same fea-
tures, and on the east side a small temple with another
image of him when he was a very old man. On the left
hand of Mencius, in the main temple, also on a shrine,

A LINEAL REPRESENTATIVE OF MENCIUs. 219
was an image of his favourite disciple, Yo-ching-tsz.
Before the Sage, and also in front of his disciple, were
frames, on which sacrifices are offered at the proper
Seasons, on the Second and eighth month; and also
huge incense-pots. The verandah behind the temple
is likewise supported by eight plain marble pillars, and
the side verandahs by five pillars each. Behind the
main temple was a temple for the father of Mencius, in
which was no image, but only a tablet with the inscrip-
tion, “The spirit's resting-place.” -
My readers know that Mencius is placed next to
Confucius in the estimation of the Chinese. He was
born B.C. 371, and so was contemporary with the latter
years of Plato, with Aristotle, Demosthenes, and the
worthies of these days. He lived eighty-four years. I
felt extremely interested in visiting this place and
looking on the statue of the sage. All who have
studied his writings must respect him : the clearness
and force with which he enunciated the great principles
of public and private morality, his just views of the
positions and relations of prince and people, his illus-
trations and enforcement of the division of labour, his
zeal in the exposure of error, and his frank and out-
spoken deportment, will ever commend him to Western
as well as to Eastern minds.
After a minute survey, we found that the lineal
representative of the family was at home, and we
resolved to call upon him. His residence is on the
West side of the street leading to the south gate, the
220 JOURNEY FROM PEKING TO CHE-FOO.
temple being on the east side opposite. Accordingly I
sent in my card, one English and one Chinese, and
was most politely received. My assistant and myself
were invited into a side-room, where we had tea pre-
sented to us. After a little we were called into the
chief court, and there had a short audience with him.
He was a man of sixty-five years of age. His eldest
son was from home, but his second son and his grand-
sons were all arranged on his right and left hands, and
thus he received us. His resemblance to the statue
of Mencius struck us at once : the same short, stout,
active frame and frank demeanour. He asked a few
questions as to England, made a few remarks on our
dress, and then retired. We sent him a present of
the complete Scriptures and several scientific books: he
returned the compliment by presenting us with a copy
of several inscriptions and books. I felt a strong
interest in him and his family; his sons were bright
and wholesome-looking youths. He was the head of
the seventieth generation from Mencius, and thus
members of the seventy-first and seventy-second were
also before us.
The Emperor Shin-tsung, in A.D. 1083, issued an
order constituting Mencius the “Duke of Tsiu,” and
also ordering this temple to be built. Several changes
have been made in his title since then ; but his repre-
sentative has, I believe, no special title. One of his
descendants, called “He-wan,” of the fifty-sixth gene-
ration, was made, by Kea-tsing, A.D. 1522–66, a member
TABLET IN HONOUR OF THE MOTHER OF MENCIUS. 221
of the Hanlin College and of the board in charge of the
“Five king, or five classics.” This honour was to be
hereditary in his family, and the holder of it to pre-
side at the sacrifices of his ancestor.” The head of
the clan receives a large pension from Government.
Outside the south gate of the city we found a large
tablet in honour of the mother of Mencius, with an
engraving on the marble slab illustrating the famous
story of his mother cutting through the web she was
weaving, to point out to him the evil of leaving things
half done and not pushing his studies on to comple-
tion. Here also is another tablet telling us that Tze-
tse, the grandson of Confucius, dwelt on this spot and
composed the classic called the Tsoong-yoong or the
Golden Mean.
Entering the city we began our work, devoutly
thankful to be permitted to preach the Gospel in the
city of the sage and to his descendants. The people
listened with considerable interest, and afterwards
bought all the books we had brought from Yen-chow-
foo. Meantime, the authorities had heard of our doings,
and messengers came and insisted on our going to the
yamun, or police-office. We always carried our pass-
port ; but, unfortunately, having changed our dresses,
the invaluable document was with our luggage in Kio-
foo-hien. We did not say So, but explained who we
were ; and when they found that we had finished our
work, and were actually departing, they, Chinese-like,
* See Legge's Classics, article Mencius.
222 JOURNEY FROM PEKING TO CHE-FOO.
let us off. “If he be a rogue, we at any rate are
getting quit of him; let the trouble fall on others,” was
their mental exclamation.
Emerging from the city, a comparatively poor one,
we made for the burial-grounds of the family of Mencius.
Their graves are situated on several small hills, about
twenty li from the city, covered with oak, and cypress,
and bushes of various kinds. The Chinese conceive
the grandeur of a graveyard to be proportionate to the
number and thickness of the trees: certainly, their
burial-grounds are pleasanter than our bare walled-in
fields. At the first hill a guide conducted us to the
tomb of the mother of Mencius. Wending our way
through the pleasant woods, I was interested in finding
such a multitude of grave-stones with inscriptions. The
name and the generation of the person were always.
given ; and it would not be difficult to form a history
of the clan from them. Here was a family of the
sixtieth generation, another of the forty-first, another of
the fifteenth, and some down as far as the eighth or
ninth. With the tomb of his mother we were disap-
pointed. Students of Mencius will recollect that he
brought her body from the kingdom of T'se, and gave
her such a splendid funeral that his disciples blamed
him for his extravagance. Her resting-place is merely
a mound covered with bushes and grass. In front of it
were three tablets, the centre one in her honour; before
the tablets is a huge stone table and a niche for the
Sacrifices, which are offered twice a year. At a short
RIO-FOO-HIEN. 223
distance there is a small temple where the worshippers
rest and prepare themselves for their service. On in-
quiry we found we were fifteen li from the tomb of the
Sage himself; and learning that it was simply a repeti-
tion of his mother's, a mound and tablets, etc., we
refrained, and pushed on to Kio-foo-hien, the city of
Confucius, where we were gratified by the attention of
the people and the number of books we sold.
This city is much better and busier than that of
Mencius, and is chiefly inhabited by the descendants
of the great Sage, L-eight families out of every ten bear-
ing his surname. It has two south gates, the one on
the west side being opened only on the visit of an
Emperor: this one is in front of the Temple of Con-
fucius, and leads directly to it. The temple occupies
a large portion of the western part of the city, and the
chief part of it stands on the place where Confucius
lived. Like the Temple of Mencius, it is built after the
manner of the Confucian temples common in China,
but on a grand and most superb scale : take it all in
all, I have seen nothing like it in China. There is
no structure in it to be compared to any of our first or
second-rate cathedrals, but the combination and effect
of the whole is more imposing. The inclosure is
oblong; one square is shut off from another by grand
gates. There are also two bridges, made, as I was told,
for the sake of the “fung-shui,” or good luck; and,
certainly, there did not appear to be any other necessity
for them. A grand avenue leads from the magnificent
224 JOURNEY FROM PEKING TO CHE-FOO.
south gate across the bridges, through the inner gates,
and on to the main temple. The squares are full of
tall and venerable cypress-trees, and the sides of the
avenue are crowded with tablets in honour of the Sage.
Every dynasty is here represented; and many of the
tablets were thus extremely important.
Early in the morning we set out to view this place.
A silver key soon opened the door, and we found the
keeper as obliging as our friend at the temple of
Mencius, for he took us over it all. The enclosure is
divided into two parts by a thoroughfare, for the con-
venience of the citizens; for it is too large to go round.
The chief objects of interest are on the north side, to
which we went first, and, from the moment we entered,
my mind was engrossed with objects of interest. On
the left hand was a cypress, said to be planted by
Confucius himself, and its gnarled aged trunk bore
evidence of great age. Not far from it was the place
where he taught his numerous disciples, now occupied
by a huge pavilion open to the south. Everywhere are
inscriptions in his praise—among others a poem com-
posed by Kien-loong himself, which is engraved on a
marble tablet. In front stands the Grand Temple, a
lofty building for China, and a most spacious one of two
stories. The upper verandah rests on gorgeous marble
pillars, 22 feet high and about 2 feet in diameter, which
at a distance appear as if huge dragons were coiled
around them and hanging from the top ; but, on exami-
nation, it was found that these dragons were cut out of
STATUE OF CONFUCIUS. 225
the marble, and the pillar and all its rich ornaments
are of one piece. The tiles of the roof are of yellow
porcelain, as in Peking, and the ornamentation of the
eaves was all covered with wirework to keep it from the
birds.
Inside this building is the image or statue of
Confucius, in a gorgeously-curtained shrine, holding in
his hand a slip of bamboo, such as was used for writing
upon in his days. The statue is about 18 feet by
6 feet, and is life-like. Confucius was tall, strong,
and well built, with a full red face and large and heavy
head. Here he is represented in the attitude of con-
templation, with his eyes gazing upwards, looking much
more serious than Mencius, but without his attractive,
straightforward, dogged air. On the tablet is the simple
inscription, “The most Holy prescient Sage Confucius
—His spirit's resting-place.” On the east side are
images of his favourite disciples, arranged according to
the estimation in which he is said to have held them.
Mencius is in an inferior position on the west side, and
I must say I felt indignant at this. The roof of the
building is crowded with tablets hung up in honour of
the sage, each vying with another in extravagant praise;
one says he was equal to heaven and earth, and others
are as blasphemous. Before him, and also before his
disciples, were the usual frames for Sacrifices, and in
front of these, beautiful incense-pots; beside them were
several most interesting relics, such as vases, said to
be of the Shang dynasty, B.C. 1610, the work on which
WOL. I. 15
226 JOURNEY FROM PEKING TO CHE-FOO.
was superb. There were also two bronze elephants,
reported to be of the Chow dynasty, and a table of that
same era of dark red wood. Whether we believe in
their declared antiquity or not, there can be no doubt of
their great age, and their appearance speaks volumes
for the art of the nation in ancient days: the forms and
the carving are alike exquisite.
On the west side are two temples; one in front, in
honour of the father of Confucius, who is said to have
governed Yen-chow-foo, and one behind, in honour of
his mother. These are plain temples, without images,
having only tablets. On the east side are temples to his
five ancestors, and a large block of marble, whereon is
a genealogical tree,_there is nothing new under the
sun, -giving all the branches of his family. On the
same side is a well, from which the sage drank; I got
the man to let down a bucket, and tasted the water,
which was excellent, though a little sweetish. On this
side, also, is a place which he is said to have used as
his school. The building behind the Grand Temple
was the temple in honour of his wife, in which, likewise,
was only a tablet, and no image. The second temple
behind that contained four tablets, erected by Kang-hi
in his honour, one character on each, and the interpre-
tation was, “The perspicuous teacher for ten thousand
kingdoms.” Here, also, were three pictures of the sage
on marble : one, an old man, full length, rather dim,
having no date ; the second, smaller, with seal-cha-
racters on the side; the third, and best, giving only his
THE PRESENT DUKE. 227
head and shoulders. These varied somewhat, but were
substantially alike. All of them gave the mouth or lips
open and front teeth exposed, and the full, contemplative
eyes.
Immediately behind these are gravings on marble,
illustrating all the chief incidents in his life, with
appropriate explanations at the side. Of these there
were altogether 120 slabs, which are built into the wall.
The greater part of them were in good preservation,
and extremely interesting ; the more so as they also
give a clear idea of the dress, furniture, carriages, and
houses of those ancient times. I was fortunate enough
to get a copy taken on paper of all these three portraits
and marble slabs, which I cherish as most interesting
objects. -
The southern division is less important than the
northern. It contains tablets innumerable, cypress-
trees, gates, walls, and bridges. Here in ancient times
is said to have stood that “Spirit Tower,” alluded to
in the Shoo-king, and quoted by Mencius (pt. i. chap.
vi.) The Duke lives in a mansion adjoining the temple
on the west. In this mansion was the house, in the
walls of which were found the classics; hidden there
for fear of that destroyer of literature and learned men,
the Emperor Tsin. The present Duke is a youth of
sixteen, and is under his cousin as governor. On my
second visit I had the pleasure of an interview with
him, which is described in my Journey.
Sending off the donkeys and books before us to
228 JOURNEY FROM PEKING TO CHE-FOO.
Sze-shui-hien, in company with my native assistant and
one of the muleteers, I paid a visit to the tomb of the
sage. A fine avenue of old cypress-trees leads due north
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from the north gate to the burial-ground. In a forest
of oak, cypress, and other trees, enclosed by a high
wall, is the grave. Entering the graveyard, we passed
through a finely ornamented gate, and then to a second
avenue, with lions and other creatures in stone on either
hand, and the unfailing cypress overhead. As we ap-
proached the tomb, two sages, larger than life, faced
each other, looking most solemnly, as if they wished

TOMB OF TZE-SZE. 229
to remind the visitor of the sacredness of the place.
Passing the house where sacrifices are prepared and
the worshippers rest and meditate, we were shown a
tree planted by Tsze-kung, one of the Sage's disciples,
and a pavilion erected by Kien-loong, the Emperor.
Moving onwards, we came to the tomb of Tze-sze, who
composed the T800mg-yoong, and who is said to have
been the preceptor of Mencius. We looked at it with
great interest, for he certainly fulfilled Confucius' anti-
cipations, who, hearing one of his observations while
a boy, exclaimed, “Now, indeed, shall I be without
anxiety. My undertakings will not come to nought :
they shall be carried on, and flourish.” When we think
of “his tattered coat without any lining,” and “his
nine meals in thirty days,” his comparative life-long
poverty, his travels, his devotion to the dissemination of
truth and right principles, we say, Peace to his ashes!
Right justly does he bear the title, “Philosopher Tze-
sze, Transmitter of the Sage.” (The tomb of Confucius
is a huge mound, overgrown with trees and shrubs,
having in front of it the usual, arrangements for sacri-
fice. Beside it stands a tablet, 25 feet high by 6 feet
broad, on which are engraved the name and doings of
the sage. On the west side of the tomb was the place
where Tze-koong sat for six years over his master's
grave and mourned for him. When asked why his
master should be ranked as a sage, he replied, “I have
all my life had the heaven over my head, but I do not
know its height; and the earth under my feet, but I
230 JOURNEY FROMI PERING TO CHIE-FOO.
know not its thickness. In serving Confucius, I am
like a thirsty man who goes with his pitcher to the river
and there drinks his fill, without knowing the river's
depth.” He is pre-eminently respected by the Chinese,
inasmuch as while many of the disciples built huts
around the grave and dwelt there for three years, he
alone made his residence there for three years ad-
ditional, sorrowing for his master.
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On the west of the tomb of the sage is that of
his son, “Le,” the father of Tze-sze, and all around
the graves of the chiefs of the clay Towards the east

CONFUCIUS AND THE REBELS. 231
are the graves of his less important posterity; and, as
in the burial-ground of the family of Mencius, we
found on the grave-stones the register of generation
after generation. On our way home we met a funeral
of one of the house. There was the usual music and
paraphernalia of Chinese obsequies, but on a small scale,
indicating comparative poverty. The chief mourner was
a tall, well-built old man, as the majority of the sage's
descendants are.
Such is the present condition of the grave of Con-
fucius. Rumours were abroad, that it had been devas-
tated by the rebels. They indeed approached the city,
and were asked whether they wished to destroy the
temple of the great sage. They repudiated the design,
but avowed their intention to kill the unjust mandarin.
When informed that the chief mandarin was one of the
Confucian family, they retired from the city; but, as a
great many of the country-people who lived in the
neighbourhood had gathered together in the graveyard,
thinking to protect themselves partly by the sanctity
of the place, and partly by the wall which surrounded
it, the rebels—blood-thirsty men—attacked them, and
murdered multitudes. -
The character of Confucius has always been an
enigma to me. I never could discover the secret of his
power—“ where his great strength lay.” There is
nothing in his writings, nor in his achievements, nor in
his remarks, as recorded by his disciples, which afford
an adequate explanation of the extraordinary influence
232 JOURNEY FROM PEKING TO CHE-FOO.
he has exercised upon successive generations in China.
Nor can I yet fully satisfy myself. Still his statue and
his likenesses engraved on the marble tablets have
thrown some light upon the subject. . He appears to
have been a “lordly man,” a man of commanding
appearance; and also one of those “ wisely wise ’’ men
who intuitively perceive the springs of human action,
and who can attract men and move them according to
their wishes. There have been far more original men in
China; the Emperor Táng, of the Shang dynasty,
and the Duke of Chow, whose temple also stands in
this district, surpassed him. Even Mencius is before
him in force of reasoning and sturdy honest advocacy
of what appeared truth and duty; yet no name in
China can be compared in power to that of Confucius.
In a certain sense Confucius is China. His merit and
fame consist in his having collected and edited the
ancient records of the Empire, and having advocated
and enforced those grand sentiments and just views of
duty and far-reaching precepts of the old kings, which
startle us even yet by their freshness, power, and com-
prehensiveness.
There is yet another question relating to the Sage,
which I have often asked myself—What part does Con-
fucius and the system he framed play in the Providential
Government of the world 2 But this is too wide and
difficult a question to discuss here.
The temple of Yen-hwuy, the favourite disciple of
Confucius, also stands within the city of Kio-foo-hien,
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TEMPLE OF THE DUKE OF CHOW. 233
and the graveyard of his descendants on the outside of
the north gate. We postponed a visit to them till a
future period, and they will be found described in the
journal of my trip to Nankin ; we therefore passed on
to visit the temple of the Duke of Chow.
The Duke of Chow was, undoubtedly, one of the
greatest men China ever produced, and there have been
not a few mighty men in the now worn-out Empire;
Confucius perpetually set his example before his followers.
Accordingly we approached his temple with no little
interest. The building stands in a large enclosure full
of old cypress-trees. On the right and left of the avenue
are tablets erected to his honour by almost every dynasty.
His statue faces you as you enter the temple, and is a
Striking figure ; the image is of a large-boned strong
man—bluff, good-natured—with a magnificent head,
and countenance full of intelligence. Though not alto-
gether like Mr. Binney, the Nonconformist preacher, yet
the figure instantly reminded me of him. Looking at it,
we could easily believe how a man of that stamp could
act and speak as the Duke of Chow did. This Duke is
said to have been miraculously conceived ; after birth
his mother, fearing something inauspicious from his
conception, exposed him to be trodden to death on the
road-side, and on the ice; but he was always preserved,
and at last taken home and nursed, and as he grew up
he was a wonder to all. The Duke himself had no
belief in the fable of his origin. In one of his speeches
he says he was “the son of King Wan, the brother of
234 JOURNEY FROM PEKING TO CHE-FOO.
King Woo, and the uncle of King Ching.” His brother,
Ring Woo, was the founder of the Chow dynasty, whom
he mightily helped by his great talents.
The tomb of Shaou-haou is that of one of the semi-
historical Emperors of China. It lies a little to the east
of the temple of the Duke of Chow, in an oblong en-
closure surrounded by a high wall. In the temple are
no images, but only the place for a tablet, which we
were told was in the city, being repaired. The most
interesting object lay behind this building. It was a
pyramid built of large blocks of granite, with a small
house on the top, with turned-up eaves in the present
Chinese fashion, and covered with porcelain tiles. An
old tree grew out of the middle of the pyramid, and gave
the whole a most venerable appearance. This pyramid
was not to be compared to an Egyptian one for size.
But here lay the secret of attraction—to meet a pyramid
in China | Behind the pyramid was a mound for the
sake of the Fung-shui. This Emperor is said by some
to be the son of Hwang-ti-the first reputed Emperor
of China—and by others he is said to be the grandson.
But this matters little; he is said to have succeeded
Hwang-ti, and reigned about 2500 B.C. ^ Chinese Writers
tell us that “anciently the people attended to the dis-
charge of their duties to one another, and left the invo-
cation of spirits and the calling of the spirits to earth
to officers who were appointed for that purpose; in
this way things proceeded with great regularity; the
people minded their own affairs and spirits minded
NE-REW HILL. 235 -
theirs. But, in the time of Shaou-haou, through the
lawlessness of Kew-le, a change took place; the people
meddled with the functions of the regulators of the
spirits and their worship : they tried to bring down
spirits from above. The spirits themselves being no
longer kept in check, but subjected irregularly and dis-
astrously, all was confusion and calamity. Then Chuen-
heuh, the Emperor who succeeded Shaou-haou, took
the case in hand, and appointed Chung, the Minister
of the South, to superintend heavenly things; and Li,
the Minister of Fire, to superintend earthly things. In
this way both spirits and people were brought back to
their former regular courses.” This, of course, recalls to
our mind that strange passage in Gen. vi. 1-4, about
the sons of God having intercourse with the daughters
of men; and if we look at the date on the margin of
the Bible, we will find it B.C. 2448. A remarkable
coincidence certainly. ) -
Satisfied with sight-seeing, we soon turned our faces
towards Sze-shui-hien, and hastened our steps as the
afternoon was far advanced, and we had fifteen miles be-
fore us; yet we could not hurry, the whole district was
so full of interest. There, on the left of us, was the
Ne-kew hill or the Ne hill, to which the mother of
Confucius (Tsing-taiee) went to pray for a son. Of
course we discard the fables which surround his birth,
but there does seem some reason to believe that he
was born on this hill. A cave is still pointed out
as the place where the sage was brought forth, “the
236 JOURNEY FROM PEKING TO CHE-FOO.
hollow mulberry-tree cave,” as it was called; and
there is a temple now standing in honour of his
mother.
North of us are the hills among which stands one of
the four sacred, or rather five sacred, hills of China,
and the chief of them, viz. the Tai-shan or Tai hill,
which is afterwards described.
The river on whose banks our road partly lay, and
which we were impinging every now and then, was
also historical. It is the “Sze-shui” river spoken of in
the Tribute of Yu, B.C. 2000, famous for its sounding
stones, which formed part of the taxes. This district,
especially north of us, was also the place from which
came those coloured earths, five kinds of which are
mentioned in that old book, and which were used on
the investiture of a prince. That kind was taken which
resembled the soil of his principality, and of it an altar
was built; which altar, however, was always covered with
yellow earth. The river is now a feeder of the Grand
Canal.
Our enthusiasm was checked by the fall of night,
when we had still eight miles to travel. This was rather
disagreeable, more especially as our muleteer was not
perfectly acquainted with the road. Often we vowed
we would never travel after nightfall in China, but
Sometimes were obliged to do so. We lost our way
once, were nearly all in a ditch, and when we reached
the gates of the city found them shut and the guards
in bed. We had a great deal of trouble to per-
TEMPLE OF TZE-LOO. 237
suade them to admit us, and once thought we
should have to make our beds outside till morning;
however, we got in at last, and had the comfort
of a wretched inn. Next day was Sabbath, and having
caught a severe cold, I kept my bed; or rather
blankets, for bed, in our sense of the term, there
Wà.S El Oſlé.
Next morning, feeling much better, we started at
dawn. On our way we visited the temple of Tze-loo,
another of the famous disciples of Confucius. I some-
times think of him as the Peter among the followers
of our Sage ; at all events he was a bold, impulsive,
outspoken, good man. His statue represents a stout,
short man, dark-faced, and of rather fierce aspect. Look-
ing at him we thought of many of his sayings, and of
his melancholy death; for he died in battle, as Con-
fucius had predicted. When engaged as a mandarin
in Wei, a rebellion arose ; he refused to forsake his
patron the prince, who had treated him so well, threw
himself into the midst of the rebels, and was slain B.C.
479. His temple is now out of repair, but his memory
is fresh and fragrant.
This city, Sze-shui-hien, stands at the limit of
the level country. Leaving it the ground begins to
ascend, and becomes gradually more and more rugged.
Hard, stony ground, bleak hills and marshes, now pre-
vailed on either hand, and we found herds of black
cattle feeding on the now scanty pastures. We passed
several villages and reached Woo-tai just after the sun
238 Jour'NEY FROM PEKING TO CHE-F00.
had gone down. Unfortunately it began to rain in the
afternoon, and as we had little protection we all got a
thorough drenching. Fortunately I was able to keep
my bedding dry, for had it got wet, I should have
been in a miserable plight. We had some difficulty
in finding an inn, every place being shut up owing to
the rain, and no one on roads or streets. This route
not being one of great traffic, the inns and accommo-
dation were worse than ever. We could get no means
of drying our clothes; for it must be recollected that
Chinese never think of drying clothes by the fire, it
being too expensive, but always by the sun, and when
there is no sun, woe to the poor traveller. The place
allotted to us, the grand room kept for great travellers,
was worse than our most common barns; the floor was
mud; there was no bed whatever, not even a “kang.”
Straw was spread on the floor and a matting laid over
it, and here we were expected to lie down. The furni-
ture consisted of two stools, and a table about one foot
two inches high, to accommodate Savages who eat on
their haunches, or others who are obliged to be savages
for the time being ; and then in the corner was a huge
coffin. In the middle of this cold, damp, dreary room
we kindled a fire of straw and brushwood, and did what
we could to warm ourselves and dry our clothing, but
in vain. My assistant was worse than I, for his bedding
had got wet, and the servant and muleteers were worse
than all. I could not provide them with dry coverings,
and believing that the servant and muleteers would suffer
UNPLEASANT QUARTERS. 239
least, I gave what I could spare to my assistant. Having
got ourselves a little warm, we expected something to
eat ; but, alas ! misfortunes never come single. There
was nothing but the very coarsest food, and so I had
to content myself with tea, and stuff I cannot find an
English name for. Afterwards finding the floor not one
of the most inviting, I tried how it would do to sleep
on the top of the empty coffin ; but I was disappointed
even in this bit of comfort, for the rain and wind kept
pouring in at a hole towards the head of the coffin.
There was no help for it ; my book-boxes were of no
avail here, for the greater part of my stock having been
sold, they were too few to make a bed; and so ordering
more straw from the Surly host, I lay down, and am
thankful to say slept soundly, with the teapot at our
feet for a warming-pan. I am the more minute in
describing this place, as for six days among the hills
our accommodation was of a similar kind.
Next morning the rain having passed off, we resolved
to start and dry our clothes in walking; but here we
had reckoned without our host. Being now in a wild
sort of country our muleteers had made a pact among
themselves to “squeeze” us, and so they told us plainly
they would go no further. Reasoning was of no use
whatever; and so after we had been obliged to add a
great deal to their wages, they agreed to set out. But
now came the landlord's turn, who put in his claim for
an exorbitant bill. He was a brutish butcher-like man,
and as he got the neighbours on his side, we deemed
240 JOURNEY FROM PEKING TO CHE-FOO.
it prudent to comply also with his demands. But Our
annoyances did not end here: this was to be paid for
and that—this required to be done and that. At last
we got off, mentally resolving that we would make them
suffer for it at the first city we reached. Accordingly in
the evening, having reached the city of Mung-yin-
hien, we reported the conduct of the rascals. The
mandarins at Once took our part, and offered to lash
them ; but, on our interceding, they commanded them
to fulfil their bargain, and next day sent a soldier with
us as a guard, telling us that they would provide us
with a guard all the way home if we wished it.
Having started, our thoughts were taken away from
our discomforts by the beauty of the country. Our way
lay right up villages and across hills, and many a time
we were reminded of Calder-Glen and other dear spots
in our fatherland. Numerous herds of black cattle like
our Highland breed added a charm to the scene. But
there was diversity as well as resemblance; many of
the hills were covered with that stunted oak-shrub from
which they feed the wild silkworm in this district, and
baskets of cocoons exposed for sale in the hamlet spoke
of other than Scottish mountains. These oak-gardens,
shall we call them 2 became more numerous next day,
pointing out to us the permanency of the climate and the
perpetuity of the customs of the people. We were now
in the old division of Ts’ing-chow province ; and among
the articles of tribute in the days of Yu from the
district were silk and hemp, which last was also in abund-
THE EASTERN MUNG EIILL. 241
ance. In the days of the Emperor Shun, more than
2100 B.C., the same things had grown in this district,
for silk is mentioned as one of the articles of tribute
in the Shoo-king as having been brought from the old
province of T'sing-chow in which we now are.
Passing on, we came in sight of another historical
object, viz. the Eastern Mung Hill, which is mentioned
as having been brought under cultivation after the
waters had been carried off by Yu ; and on which, in
ancient times, sacrifices had been offered, as we infer
from the remarks of Confucius in the Lung-yu. It is
also famous as having, in modern times, called forth
the poetical genius of Kien-loong, who composed a
piece of poetry in view of its snow-clad summit, on one
of his journeys to the southern parts of his kingdom.
Not far from this hill is another, called Yu, where Shun
kept Kwan, the father of the great engineer, as prisoner
till he died. It was also from the valleys in the neigh-
bourhood that the famous variegated pheasants’ feathers
came, which are also mentioned in that list of articles
given in the Shoo-king, showing that, even in these
times, B.C. 2000, they were used for military decorations.
In the afternoon we reached the city of Mung-yin-hien,
not a very important place, except as a depôt for salt;
we found large salt-warehouses here, and a great trade
in that commodity : the Salt is carried on mules from
the north of the city of Tsing-chow-foo. Leaving in
the morning, we found the country thinly peopled,
and goitre very prevalent in the valleys; the country
WOL. I. k - 16
242 JOURNEY FROM PEKING TO CHE-FOO.
shortly grew less hilly, and we at last reached the
River E, spoken of in the Tribute of Yu as one of
the rivers regulated by him. It is a small shallow
river without bridges, but fordable at the spot where
we reached it; it flows to the south and then south-
east, falling into the lakes connected with the Grand
Canal. On entering Mung-yin-hien we crossed one of
the great highways which leads from Peking to the
south. Yet it was no great highway, but, like the rest,
a very bad road, uneven, and full of stones.
The following day, the 15th of November, I was laid
up with fever, the effects of bad air and bad food. I
feared we were to be detained by illness; but having
taken quinine I grew much better, and started next day
on our journey. It is no pleasant thing to get ill in a
wild country, among heathens, and in a large brick
building with mud floor, without a fire or bed. I felt
lonely and eerie, but as my day, so my strength was.
The country was thinly peopled. Goitre prevailed
in the valleys, but not so badly as in the valleys to the
north of Peking. I rode on before the men, and reached
a country inn at a place called Hia-we. The donkeys
did not come up, and so I had a night without food
(save a piece of cold fowl which I had in my pocket),
and with little for bedding. The rascals said they were
tired. I felt rather worse next day, but again set out,
and crossed another high ridge and through more silk
districts. At dusk we reached Ee-shwuy-hien, another
historical region. Going on, we crossed, on the 19th,
THE RIVER WEI. 243
a third range of hills, and met wheelbarrows without
number. Here, again, I saw human labour at its
hardest; for what these wheelbarrow-men do, almost ex-
ceeds belief. In the valleys, there were goats and sheep
innumerable. On the 20th I started at five o’clock
in the morning. There was a bitterly cold north-east
wind, and I got quite sick, and had to stop at a way-
side inn : I despaired of getting on further that day,
but after two hours' rest I felt better, and arrived at
Wei-hien, where we sold a great number of books. The
soldiers at the gates were not civil, and tried to hinder
our bookselling. The city has an enormous trade: in
fact, there are two cities, the eastern part being enclosed
with an excellent wall. We found ourselves again in a
country of carts, and eagerly hired one ; for we rode a
donkey from Yen-chow-foo. What a comfort 1 for even
a springless Chinese cart is better than a donkey for a
journey. We started about seven o’clock in the morning,
but did not make much progress, for the road was a
continuous puddle. -
We crossed the River Wei in a ferry-boat. The river
rises near Yi-shan, flows east to the busy city of Chu-
chung, then north to the sea. It is a river of no great
importance in commerce ; there is a busy seaport at
its mouth, but it is not navigable for any but small
boats. It came under the care of the Great Yu, who, we
are told, conducted it to its proper channel. To-day we
experienced a most providential deliverance. Owing to
the rains, the roads were flooded in many places, and
244 JOURNEY FROM PEKING TO CHE-FOO.
passing through a sheet of water, on the edge of a quarry
full of water, the young mule which was drawing grew
restive, and very nearly upset our cart; had the cart
been pulled two or three inches more to the side, we
should all have been overturned. I look back on this
Scare with thankfulness, for had we been upset, in
addition to being hurt, if not drowned, everything—
clothes, bedding, food—would have been drenched and
spoiled. On the 24th it rained so that we could not
travel.
Next day the weather was good, and, accordingly, we
set out. About noon we came in sight of the Lai-chow
hills, where the wild tribes lived who were said to have
been taught tillage and pasturage by command of Yu,
and brought in their baskets of silk from the mountain
mulberry, by which we understand the oak shrub. The
country seemed well-fitted for such tribes, for rugged and
wild it is. The teaching of Yu does not appear to have
had much effect. Dr. Legge tells us that it was savages
from this district who were employed at the interview
between Loo and Tse at Kea-kuh. They are described
as half-savage aborigines, and were brought by the chief
officer of Tse apparently to force compliance with his
master's demands, otherwise to make the Duke of L00
prisoner. The tombs of their princes are pointed out
on the seaside between Tung-chow-foo and Che-foo, and
we have often passed them : large mounds of earth
enclosed by what originally had been a high mud wall.
The present Chinese inhabitants of this eastern part of
HAPPY TERMINATION OF OUR JOURNEY. 245
Shan-tung disclaim being the original people ; they all
trace their descent to the west; many families are from
Honan and Shan-si.
Lai-chow-foo is famous for its fine soap-stones, of
various colours and beautifully veined. The stones, of
which we procured several specimens, are cut into idols,
pagodas, and all sorts of things. Very probably it is
these stones which are referred to in the Shoo-king as
the strange stones which form part of the tribute of this
district. If not these, it may be the beautiful pebbles,
and also amber, which are to be found in abundance at
the eastern point of the promontory. Lai-chow-foo is
now faded in glory, and is comparatively a poor city to
be a “foo.” On the 24th we set out for Whang-hien,
which we reached in two days. We now entered that
district, called in old times Yu-e, to which the Emperor
Yaou is supposed to have sent the astronomer, He, to
observe the rising Sun. The locality where he resided
is said to be Ning-hai-chow, a city where we have often
been. From the high hills in the neighbourhood he
could observe accurately the sun as it rose from the
bosom of the sea.
Reaching Whang-hien on the 27th in the afternoon,
we obtained a mule litter, for this city used to be the
limit of carts, and reached home on the morning of
November 29. We found all well and happy, and gave
thanks to God for the success which had attended our
long journey.
( 246 )
CHAPTER XIV.
JOURNEY THROUGH THE PROVINCES OF CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI,
AND A PORTION OF SHEN-SI AND HONAN.
TART I.- CHIH-LI.
Pleasant Anticipations—Gulf of Pe-chih-li—Aspect of the Country—
Strange Mode of Fishing—Travelling-Carts—Burial-places—City
of Lu-ku-chiau—Curious Bridge—Chinese Inns—Metalliferous
Range of Hills—Chang-ching-tien—City of Tso-chow—Pagodas—
Marble Bridge and Pailows—A Beneficent Viceroy—Open Immo-
rality—Reception of the Gospel—State of the Great Highway—
Ngan-hsu-Condemned Criminals—A Party of Officials in State—
Reception of the Scriptures—Pau-ting-foo—Mohammedan Mosque
—Large Temples with numerous Idols—Temple of the Emperor
Yaou and his Mother—Ting-chow—A Pig-Fair—Ignorance of
the Country-People—Ching-ting-foo—Colossal Buddhist Idols of
Bronze—Buddhist Priests—Selling Books—Romanist Mission.
I LookED forward to this journey with great interest,
as the route lay through districts renowned in China for
their great fertility, large and varied mineral wealth,
and for the enterprising character of the people. I
hoped also to see the site of the first capital of China,
and the scenes of its earliest history, dating back over
4,000 years, and likewise many large cities whose fame
reaches down through one or two millenniums. More-
over, I expected to ascertain the truth regarding that
PLEASANT ANTICIPATIONS. 2.47
most ancient and valuable Christian relic, the Nestorian
tablet, which originally stood at Si-ngan-foo, but which
was reported to have perished in that general destruction
consequent on the great Mohammedan rebellion. No
European traveller had preceded me in modern times,
except a few Roman Catholic priests, who travelled in
disguise ; thus I humbly hoped that careful observation
might enable me to acquire information which would
deepen the interest felt in China, and aid in the opening
up of that great land to the blessings of Christianity
and the advantages of modern civilization. How far
success crowned my efforts, readers can judge.
The Commander of H.M.'s Gunboat Weasel having
kindly offered me a passage to Tien-tsin, I left Che-foo
on August 26, 1866. While cruising about for a few
days in the Gulf of Pe-chih-li, I had a renewed oppor-
tunity of observing the shallowing of the water, the
advancement of the mud-banks, and in general the
curtailment of the dimensions of the estuary. This
has been going on for centuries, but the following facts,
which illustrate these statements, have occurred within
comparatively recent times. For instance, several places
once accessible to junks are now high out of the sea ;
hills which were once islands are now connected by a
narrow strip of land and form a peninsula; and several
places which were in historical times covered with the
sea, now form tracts of country. The cities of Tung-
chow-foo in Shan-tung and New-chwang in Manchuria,
are illustrations of the first ; the bluff of Che-foo is
248 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIEI-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
an instance of the second; and the low-lying tracts of
country on the coasts of Shan-tung, Chih-li, and Man-
churia, are examples of the third. The first-named
city had a water-city within its walls, where large junks
in former times used to discharge and receive cargoes;
but it is now impossible for any but the smallest
boats to go up and enter it, and the idea of larger
craft being accommodated within its spacious docks is
now out of the question. In like manner New-chwang
on the Liau-ho river used to be the port of Manchuria,
but it is now many miles beyond the reach of any but
small flat-bottomed boats. After New-chwang failed,
a large town called Tien-tai became the point of ship-
ment, but for several years this also has proved im-
practicable, and now the foreign trade and nearly all
the native business is done at a place called Ying-tze-
kow, not very far removed from the sea; but which, it
is to be feared, from, the same causes, must ultimately
fail like its predecessors and give way to some other
place.
In the course of the fourth day we reached Ta-koo
bar, and thence proceeded to Tien-tsin and Peking.
I need not occupy the reader's time by describing
scenes which have been repeatedly delineated by other
writers; as, for instance, the bleak and barren aspect
of the country on entering the river, the Saline exuda-
tions spread over the soil, the improved character of the
country as one advances, first, tall reeds with beautiful
feathery tops, then fields of tall millet, red, white, and
CURIOUS METHOD OF FISHING. 249
variegated; afterwards," kitchen-gardens, with their im-
mense variety of vegetables, so huge and luxuriant,
and orchards full of vines, peaches, pears, and apples,
and other fruits; nor need I speak of the junks in the
river with their different rigs and cargoes, so picturesque
to the traveller; nor of Tien-tsin, that great Babel of
Sounds, bustle, business, and wheelbarrows, with its
immense stacks of salt covered over with mats, and its
deep lines of native shipping; nor, further, need I say
aught about the level plains between this and Peking,
with crops of cotton, hemp, sesamum, fine millet of
many kinds, and the huge Kau-liang, in which a man
on horseback might hide himself; or of the scenes
through which Sir Hope Grant's victorious army
marched, and the field on which a famous fight was
fought.
One curious thing I may refer to, and that is a
method of fishing, common at Takoo. Approaching
that fort, the attention of observers is arrested by what
appear to be small buoys bobbing up and down in
the sea. Careful observation shows that they are not
stationary but moving, and you wonder what in the
world they are. As the steamer passes rapidly, it is
impossible to discover, and not until you reach the
river and see the performance at its commencement can
you make out their character. They are men's heads,
who are in the sea, wading, often stark naked, but
sometimes in bullocks' hides tied close to the neck, and
fishing as they go along. They often remain for many
250 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
hours in the water, and that even in cold weather ; for
we have seen them when the hoar-frost was on the
ground and the air biting cold. This is another illus-
tration of the adaptability of the human frame to the
circumstances in which it is placed.
Arriving at Peking I had the great pleasure of
finding my friend Mr. Lees, of Tien-tsin, there. He
proposed to accompany me; and, having got our bibles
and books ready, and preparations all made, we set out
On our long journey on the 11th of September.
In the south of China the numerous rivers and
canals render boats the almost universal means of
travel. But in the north the rivers are for the most
part few and shallow, and carts are common. In our own
case there was no choice. There is no direct water com-
munication between the capital and the rich provinces
on the west. A lofty mountain range had to be crossed,
and many a weary mile of open country. We therefore
engaged carts, hiring them for the entire distance, about
900 English miles. The ordinary chair-cart (as it is
called) is a two-wheeled vehicle, made very strong, but
without springs. It has a circular cover made of
wooden lattice-work, covered with cloth, and is also
closed in behind. At the back of the cart the trams
project so as to afford convenience for luggage. All
old travellers are careful to fill up the back of the
inside of the cart first, putting mattresses, pillows, and
such like buffers between their bones and the wood.
Neglect of such “packing” will surely be paid for by
HOW WF TRAVELLED. 251
aching limbs and awkward bruises. When travelling
the easiest place is on the shaft; the driver takes
the left side and leaves you the right. But if too
weary, or anxious to avoid the sun and dust, you
seek the inside, it needs careful management to
sleep, +-as nevertheless one may do—on these rutty
roads. -
Our cavalcade consisted of two such carts, and of
one much larger and without cover, on which were piled
our books. Besides the carters, we had with us a native
preacher and one servant. A fracas with the carters
delayed us at starting. The cause of dispute was very
characteristic of the people. In place of the good
animals promised for the luggage-cart, three bony spe-
cimens of mule-flesh put in an appearance, and more
than three hours were wasted in cajolery, threats, and
expostulations; which only ended, after all, in the rascals
getting pretty much their own way, and leaving behind
a portion of their load. -
It took us another hour to get clear of the capital.
Leaving Peking by the gate called the Chang-i-mun, a
very fine prospect at once presented itself. “The fields
were white unto the harvest,” symbolizing the errand
on which we were intent. Then there were ornamental
graveyards, with their beautiful cypress-trees, among
which the white pine often presented its elegant form ;
a famous pagoda on the left, many stories high, and the
theme of yet more stories and innumerable legends
floating amid the popular superstitions; and then, far
252 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
in the distance, the western hills cast their shadows
upon the plains, deepening the effect of the whole.
One cannot leave Peking on any side without being
struck by the handsome burial-places of wealthy and
official families. These add much to the picturesque-
ness of the landscape, which would otherwise be very
bare of foliage. In general form there is little variety,
though in size and decoration they often differ greatly.
An elevated site is usually preferred, and the ordinary
shape is a parallelogram. There is rarely a wall all
round, but the boundary is marked by lines of forest-
trees, and in front there is generally an ornamental wall
and gateway, with sometimes buildings attached. Within
is a group of cypresses or cedars; many of these are
of great size and boast a growth measured by hundreds
of years. Some are of curious shape, the branches
growing horizontally, so as to present a perfectly level
top, suggesting a huge green pedestal table. The
graves themselves are mounds scattered among the
trees, the patriarch of the family being honoured with
the largest. Behind the graves there is a semicircular
ridge of earth, which is supposed to exercise some
mysterious protective influence over the sacred enclo-
Sure. In some cases a thick plantation, also semi-
circular, takes the place of this ridge.
Our road lay along the great Imperial high-road, but
our men took by-lanes to avoid its jolting stones.
Before sunset we passed the walled city of Lu-ku-chiau,
celebrated for its magnificent bridge over the river
BRIDGE OVER THE HWEN. 253
Hwen. The city is poor and thinly peopled, but the
slated roofs of the houses give it a more respectable
appearance than the general run of Chinese towns.
Uncut stone, too, is largely used in building, as in hill
districts at home, the stones being filled in with mortar
or mud, and the walls plastered or not, as the case may
be. We were a good deal interested in the bridge, which
is really a fine structure. Originally built in the Kin
dynasty, some six hundred years ago, it has on several
occasions since been thoroughly repaired. It is now
about 700 feet long by 12 feet broad, but at either end
it becomes double or treble that width. There is not a
little of scientific skill shown in the construction of the
piers, which are built with strong abutments, so as to
resist considerable pressure. Probably the Hwen was
once a powerful stream ; when we crossed it, the larger
part of its bed was dry, and the tendency of the river
seems to be to leave its old channel: it now flows
under the arch farthest from the city, and a few years
hence may forsake the bridge altogether. The orna-
mentation of the bridge consists of 280 stone lions,
140 of which adorn the buttresses on either side. At
each end are monumental stones—huge upright slabs of
marble, under heavy stone or wooden canopies, on which
are inscribed either laudatory notices of the builders of
the bridge, or imperial eulogies of the scenery around.
Looking northwards, the prospect is indeed fine, hill
crowding upon hill until the eye catches in the far
distance the great capital we had just left.
254 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
Leaving Lu-ku-chiau, we soon reached the market-
town of Chang-ching-tien, our resting-place for the
night. It is little more than one long street, paved
from end to end with large blocks of stone. The up-
setting of one of our carts as we entered—fortunately,
without hurting any one—gave the place a sort of
interest for us, as the scene of our first mishap.
In China every man carries his bedding with him ;
in the daytime it helps to pack the cart, or is laid, by
way of saddle, upon the ass. The traveller may count
himself fortunate if he can find in some “Mutual
Prosperity” or “Heavenly Union ” hostel a tolerable
room in which to rest. On the great roads and at the
recognized stages the inns are pretty sure to be decent,
but elsewhere they are often wretched. In those of the
better sort there is generally an eating-house or tea-shop
on One side of the large door leading into the yard.
The shop faces the street, and is connected with the
cook-house and private rooms of the landlord. At this
end, too, are the rooms occupied by the carters and
others. Passing through the great door, the visitor
finds himself in a large unpaved yard with buildings
all round it. On one side are perhaps six or eight guest-
rooms, little boxes about 12 feet square, with paper in
place of glass for windows, doors which do not fit, and
through the openings of which wind and dust find their
way. A very rickety old chair and an equally decrepit
table are the only furniture, the bed being simply
a brick or mud platform filling nearly half the little
CHINESE INNS. 255
room, and raised about two feet from the floor. Under-
neath it is a flue, into which, in cold weather, dry grass
or other fuel is pushed and fired, the heat and smoke
passing in a zigzag line just under the surface of the
couch, and finally escaping up a vent in the wall. Other
fireplace there is none ; and if, as often happens, the
chimney should be foul, the warmed bed is but a poor
compensation for Smarting eyes and partial suffocation.
But there are other rooms sometimes at the top of the
yard, and it is always an object to secure them, as they
are a trifle larger and cleaner, and probably in better
repair. The charges are moderate, from one to two
hundred cash per night, about one shilling, with
extras for food and gratuities for servants.
On entering the inn, your cart is backed up close by
the door of your room, the mules are unharnessed and
enjoy their roll in the dust, and the host appears, with
the inevitable teapot, to receive your orders for food.
The meal despatched, the weary guest rolls himself up
in his coverlet to sleep until daybreak—if he can, but
rats or lesser vermin often disturb his rest. -
Next day (September 12) we were astir long before
dawn : the clear morning air was very enjoyable.
Large trees lined the road on either hand, and the
western hills ran parallel to it some ten miles off upon
our right. Some of the peaks are of fantastic shapes,
and we indulged in speculations as to their origin, going
back to the time when old ocean washed their bases and
covered this vast plain. There can be little doubt that
256 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
the whole of this range is richly metalliferous. Coal
and lime abound; also marble, iron, and even the
precious metals. And yet the natives have done little
beyond just scratch the surface. - . . .
The “hien’ city of Liang-hiang, passed this morn-
ing, is a pretty little place, but lifeless. There is rather
a striking pagoda outside the west gate. We made no
stay here, the people having been visited several times.
before.
Passing several market-towns and many villages, we
reached the old city of Tso-chow, the birthplace of two
of the heroes of the famous historical romance, The
Three Kingdoms, one of whom acquired royal authority
ultimately in the West. The city has few traces of its
former greatness; such, indeed, are not often found in
China, because of the perishable materials of most of
the public buildings. There are, however, two richly
ornamented pagodas remaining, one 150 feet high,
having a couple of idols on every floor, and a very large
one, a standing figure, at the top. These pagodas, or
“ tahs,” as they are called, are believed to be of Indian
origin, and to have been introduced into China with the
doctrines of Buddhism about A.D. 300-900. They are
generally connected with Buddhist temples, and sup-
posed to ensure prosperity to the surrounding district.*
There is another splendid bridge of white marble at
* For further information upon this subject, the reader is referred
to the able paper upon it by the late Mr. W. Milne. See his Life in
China, part iv. chap. iii. g
THE OLD CITY OF TSO.CHOW. 257
Tso-chow, having at either end an approach some 800
feet in length, embellished with handsome “pailows”*
and strange devices.
At one end are two lions, at the other two elephants.
The slabs of the parapet are elaborately panelled and
carved. The roadway is forty feet wide, and the entire
length of the bridge, including its approaches, is about
430 yards.
Just outside the south gate of Tso-chow is a large
temple-like enclosure, including several good buildings
and a few acres of land. It is a charitable foundation
for giving relief to the poor, the land being cultivated
by the residents in charge, and the profits devoted to
the purposes of the charity.
Tso-chow, though far from being a large city, has
evidently been of some importance in days past, and is
still rather a busy placé. The main-street runs from
north to south, and must be 5 li in length. If the city be
square, this would give to the wall a circuit of 20 li, or
nearly seven miles. But there is a good deal of vacant
ground, besides many poor buildings. The population
may be roughly estimated at from 20,000 to 25,000.
On leaving Tso-chow, we met little of interest for
some miles. A temple and well were pointed out to us
as traditionally connected with the history of Chang-pei,
* A pailow is a monument erected to commemorate the virtues of a
deceased person, or as an ornament. The structure suggests the idea
of a large doorway, minus the door; or three such doorways connected,
the two side ones being considerably lower than the centre. They are
often most elaborate in their construction and ornamentation.
VOL. I. - 17
258 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
one of the heroes of The Three Kingdoms before
spoken of. The villages passed through were all agri-
cultural, and many of them very small, but often em-
bosomed in splendid trees.
There is a story told in connection with a hill in
this neighbourhood, where there are large coal-mines,
which belonged to a wretch who used to kidnap strangers
and enslave them. A viceroy of great reputation, named
Yü-ching-lung, hearing of this, visited the place; was
seized by the owner, and reduced to slavery. It was
some time before he succeeded in acquainting other
officials with his whereabouts, but troops were at length
sent, he was rescued, and the offender punished. Such
instances of devotedness are remembered by the people.
This same mandarin is also said to have burnt the
monastery of Hung-ngan-Sz, near Peking, on account of
the immorality of the priests, many of whom perished
in the flames.
We only passed one walled city to-day, viz. Ting-
hing-hien, a pretty place, but very small, the population
being about 3,000; even the sight of a foreigner did not
collect a crowd. Pei-ho, our stopping place for the night,
is a vile place ; but we got good quarters, the town being
one of the stages on the great road. We were much
annoyed, however, by the number of opium-smokers,
and yet worse company who swarmed around us. Im-
morality in China is not generally so public and shame-
less as, unhappily, it is with us. According to native
law it is death for courtesans to live in cities; but the
IMMORALITY OF THE PEOPLE. 259
law is evaded constantly, and secret dens of hideous
licentiousness exist in every city. In some places on
the great roads all disguise is thrown off, and the natives
appear to have lost all sense of shame; and this is one
of them. However, we got several large congregations
at Pei-ho, and sold many books. One man who had
heard us preach elsewhere, and had evidently read the
New Testament, came for copies of every Christian book
We had ; and such cases were frequent.
The general aspect of the country is as yet little
changed; the soil is thinner and lighter, the loam being
replaced by sand; but the fields are still filled with
the same grain and vegetables, and there is almost as
much wood as ever. The harvest is now (Sept. 14)
nearly ready in some places, and much is gathered in.
Indian corn, the various kinds of millet—a grain strange
to English eyes—beans, yams, several oil-plants, hemp,
tobacco, cotton, and a little indigo, were the principal
products seen.
The stone road has now vanished, and the imperial
highway has degenerated into an unmade track from
40ft. to 70ft. wide, cut up into several lines of cart-ruts;
it is in many places much lower than the fields, which
form banks on either side, telling of the wear of many
years. Bridges are often seen rendered useless, the
road winding round or below them. The towns passed
appear to be wholly agricultural, and even the larger
ones are singularly quiet. Ngan-hsü-hien, where we
dined, was an exception, as we were fortunate enough to
260 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
see it upon a market-day. The market was not very
unlike an English fair, without its merry-go-rounds
and shows; there were few stalls, the different wares
being mostly strewn upon the ground. This was the
first place where we found any pressure upon us to
obtain books.
Ngan-hsü is a larger and more populous city than
Tso-chow, and there are said to be many reading men.
In the time of the Northern Sung dynasty (A.D. 419-
470) the place was known as Hung-cheu, and out-
side the south gate there are mounds of earth, the
remains of a large temple built at this period. Drolly
enough, Ngan-hsü is now only celebrated for its cab-
bages.
. Near the city we met a cart containing some con-
demned criminals, miserable, filthy, wretched, with
unshaven heads, and seeming utterly indifferent to their
fate. Only one officer accompanied the cart, but the
weight of the massive irons encircling their necks, feet,
and ankles precluded the possibility of escape. As no
lower authority than the viceroy of a province can
award the penalty of death, all great criminals are sent
to the provincial city for trial, and, if condemned, they
are returned, as with us, to the city of their own district
for execution.
At Ngan-hsü, we were still some seventeen English
miles from Pau-ting-foo, the capital of the province of
Chih-li. We saw on the road a great number of officials,
travelling in state to Ngan-hsü, in accordance with
TARTAR OFFICIALS-PAU-TING-FOO. 261
native etiquette, to meet and welcome Tsung, the
Superintendent of trade for the northern provinces.
These grandees make a great show with their
luxuriously fitted carts and servants in livery.
To most of these officials we presented copies of the
New Testament. One, a Tartar of high rank, at first
refused the book offered by our native assistant, but
said that he only did so because he already possessed,
and had read, the New Testament and other Christian
books, copies of which had been given him by a
foreigner in Peking.
Another high official, a censor named Chen, who was
On his way to the capital, was even more gracious, enter-
ing into quite a long conversation; while a third, a
military officer, asked for and purchased the Scriptures.
Pau-ting-foo having been often visited before, we
only passed one night there and then pushed on ; and
as the city is an important one, we give the following
notes taken on a former visit.
The population is said to be 100,000; we think it
more, probably 120,000 to 150,000. There are several
very good streets, and the number of respectable shops is
above the average. Curio and book shops abound, a
sure sign of a wealthy population ; the number of
lapidaries and pipe-stem makers may be a sign of
another kind. Nearly every one seems to be more or
less connected with the many public offices, and one
has a constant feeling of constraint and supervision.
Climbing the Ku-leu (drum-tower) we got a good view
262 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
4.
of the place. The walls are not extensive, but are in
good repair, and the space enclosed is on the whole well
filled with buildings; though there are some vacant
spaces. Trees are numerous, and with the hills on the
west add much to the pleasantness of the town. The
Tsung-leu, or bell-tower, is in a ruinous state, but con-
tains a fine bell. -
We made our way to the Mohammedan mosque, a
Second-rate temple, and less cleanly than usual. Tse-
ah-hung, or Moolah, a venerable man of seventy years
of age, with white beard, welcomed us and asked many
questions. He told us that there were 200 families in
his fold; we thus judged that the Mohammedan element
in the population would be about 1,000 souls.
We entered an immense temple, covering, with its
buildings and courts, probably a couple of English acres.
The large court has two long buildings, verandahs
running along its sides, in each of which are twenty-
seven figures, larger than life, in groups of three : the
centre one represents a presiding magistrate of hell,
and the two figures in front are a scribe, holding a scroll
containing the record of some mortal's crimes, and an
executioner or tormentor: the faces of the infernal
constables were truly diabolical. A large building at
the end of this court contained a huge statue of the
“Queen of Heaven,” who is worshipped for her power
to avert or to heal small-pox. In one corner there is
a sort of house from which a female figure is coming
with medicines, and on all sides are little clay models
HEATHEN TEMPLES AND IDOLS. 263
of children in every stage of the disease, many of them
hideous objects.
The hall of the goddess, who is believed to bestow
offspring, was filled, as at Tien-tsin, with little figures,
the gift of mothers, who attributed their happiness to
her blessing. At the back of all is the shrine of
Yü-whang, the Tauist “ King of Heaven;” but the chief
idol seems to be a gigantic figure in a separate room,
styled the “Prince of the Devils.” It is no exaggera-
tion to say there are thousands of idols in this one
temple.
We visited another temple raised in the Ming
dynasty (A. D. 1300–1600), which stands upon an
artificial platform, ascended by some thirty marble steps,
and surrounded by a marble balustrade. In shape, the
building is not unlike a mosque, having a dome-like
roof. The goddess is an enormous person, with no
less than forty arms, besides the two which seem
properly to belong to her and which are placidly folded
upon her breast. Each of the supernumerary hands
holds some emblem ; in one is a medicine-flask, in
another a bill to scare demons, and so on. The priests
in charge had a number of boys training for the
priesthood.
We were strongly impressed with the importance of
the city, especially as a station for mission work.
We left Pau-ting-foo—Pau-foo, as it is colloquially
called, by the west gate. The city has no proper
suburbs, a large village on the west being looked upon
264 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
as distinct from it. Close to the gate we crossed a
Small limestone bridge over the canal by which Pau-ting
is connected with Tien-tsin. This canal appears to have
been originally a natural stream, the bed of which has
been deepened by human labour; just now it was dry.
We kept along its bank for some miles. One or two
fine flocks of black goats were seen, of a different breed
apparently from anything we had before seen in China,
the hair being long and silky. The country passed
through now became more arid and barren; it is well
wooded in the neighbourhood of the villages, but
between these there was hardly a shrub to be found,
and the various kinds of grain looked thin and parched.
We are now, however, entering a district which must
one day be filled with busy towns.
We spent Sunday, September 16, at the little city of
Wang-tu-hien, a few miles from Pau-ting. This city is
very old, and, like many such in other lands, is also very
dead; but there is something to interest the antiquary
in Wang-tu. We will not here enter into the disputed
question whether old Yaou, the first historical Emperor
of China, did or did not live and reign, as Chinese
history avers that he did; nor will we vex the shades of
countless generations by suggesting the theory held by
some, that, though he did indeed once live, he was not a
Chinaman at all, but some relative of good old Noah.
Outside the north gate is a sort of memorial temple
dedicated to him ; while within the walls is the grave of
his mother, and that of his nephew is said to be near.
MEMORIAL TEMPLE TO YAOU. 265
Temples are the substitute in China for the statues and
other monuments by which we are wont to commemorate
the illustrious dead. The one to Yaou is hardly worthy
of his dignity; it is small, and the present buildings are
but in sorry repair. They date from the reign of Kien-
lung (A.D. 1735-1795), and are said to be on the site of
an older temple, which no doubt is true. The temple
proper had very little in it. On the pillars of the
verandah hung two inscriptions. Opposite the door
was the usual raised dais, with a large clay image of
Yaou in his chair of state, with two bland-looking
attendants standing one on either side. In front of the
imperial chair was a small wooden tablet, with the
words, “The spirit-seat of the ancient Emperor Yaou.”
In front of the dais stood a dirty table with an
incense-pot; two large wooden candlesticks with sham
candles in them; and two wooden vases, containing
wooden flowers. At each end of the room was another
attendant. In the courtyard were some magnificent
cypresses, each about nine feet in circumference: Seve-
ral of these must be 700 or 800 years old. We brought
away seeds from these noble trees. There were no
priests anywhere about, and the place is only opened
once a year by the mandarins: we entered it over a
broken wall.
Yaou's mother is honoured with a much larger and
more imposing memorial. This temple has four or five
courts, three of them large, and several fine buildings.
FIere, too, were many noble trees; but the courts were
266 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
all overgrown with tall rank grass, and little care seemed
to be taken of the place. The main building is large and
handsome, standing upon a marble platform, and the
roof is covered with yellow tiles, the imperial colour.
Two massive white marble slabs, each six feet high, and
standing upon tortoises of the same stone, are placed on
either side the entrance. As a specimen of the inscrip-
tions common upon such stones, we transcribed the
characters upon one of these. It read:—“Reverently
erected in the 41st year of Wanli, in the spring month,
by Lin-tien-hing, magistrate of Wang-tu-hien.” One
cannot help suspecting that a desire on the part of
Mr. Lin to perpetuate his own name had more to do
with the erection of the tablet than reverence for the
memory of the Empress-mother. Her image repre-
sented a sitting figure of a placid old dame, more
plainly adorned than is usual with female deities,
and she had but two attendants. In front stood
the incense-table crowded with its dusty wooden orna-
ments. The tablets bore the words, “The throne of
the spirit of the holy mother of Yaou, whose maiden
name was Cheng-feng.” -
Behind this large building was a separate court,
containing the grave itself, a mound at least sixty feet
in diameter at the base, by thirty feet high, having on
the top a single carved stone of large size. Near
the grave was a well, covered by a stone canopy,
and closed by a large bell placed over its mouth. It
is known as the “Well of the Spirit Cock,” and a
“WELL OF THE SPIRIT cock.” 267
comical story was told us about the cock into which,
according to native notions, the spirit of the dead was
supposed to have gone. Said our guide: “The cock
used to be here, and if a small stone be thrown down
the well, there is a sound like the crowing of a cock.”
We proposed to test it, but he objected, and got out of
the difficulty by an ingenious tale about some Southern
men who had somehow managed to get hold of poor
Chanticleer, and carry him away; since which time, of
course, the stone-throwing experiment had failed.
The city mandarins offer sacrifices here at the period
of the Confucian worship in the second and eighth
months. The examination-hall is not far from this.
There is also a very handsome marble pailow just
inside the south gate. For the rest, Wang-tu-hien
is rather an insignificant place : even the natives reckon
the population at only 3,000. The city wall is but
four li in circuit, suggesting the idea of its having
been built solely in honour of the site ; especially as it
is stronger than ordinary, and well kept. The place is
embosomed among splendid trees; the moat being lined
with some of the largest willows we ever saw.
As we left by the South gate, we passed through a
small cotton-market, where the good housewives of the dis-
trict were haggling with the growers for baskets of snowy
cotton-tops, which they will themselves clean and spin.
Close by was another temple dedicated to the “Three
Ruling Ones.” We fancied this, however, was also
originally a memorial temple, for on the platform on
268 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
which it stands are some more magnificent funereal
cypresses, eight and ten feet in circumference. A few
yards further on is another curious relic—the traditional
well of the Yaou family, as attested by two slabs, one of
them being of most beautiful marble. The well is a
circular pit full of water, and about five feet in diameter,
having a stone wall round part of the front, and two or
three trees close behind.
Leaving Wang-tu, our road led on towards the city
of Ting-chow. The drive was a very beautiful one. Not
only were the many villages almost hidden by foliage,
but the road itself hereabouts is lined with trees, many
of them hoary with age; proofs of the taste and munifi-
cence of two of China’s greatest Emperors, Kang-hi and
Rien-loong. The effect was, to make the journey like
a ramble through the avenues of some English park.
The suburbs of the city of Ting-chow were remark-
able for the large quantity of hemp under cultivation.
The walls have been very strong, but have now lost
their brick facing. Entering the east gate, we found it
had a triple tier of walls, the brickwork, as is so often
the case, being admirably finished, and the walls of
great thickness. Within the walls there was little to
attract; most of the enclosed space is under cultivation,
the only busy quarter being in the centre of the city.
There is a pagoda of eleven stories, built in the “Sung”
dynasty, and repaired by the Emperor Wan-li of the
“Ming” (about A.D. 1600). The western suburb, the
most important part of Ting-chow, is one long street,
A PIG-FAIR. 269
running parallel to the wall, boasting some good shops,
and adorned with several fine monuments. The popula-
tion is said to be 15,000—a very doubtful estimate.
Just opposite Ting-chow, the range of hills in the
background appeared to terminate in a bold mountain,
while a more distant range became visible, whose direction
was more easterly; this range we were about to cross.
We spent the evening of September 17 at the
market-town of Ming-yue-tien. Just outside the
houses was a pig-fair, held under the shade of some
large trees. A great number of carts were drawn up
in a rough circle, the mules tied to the trees, while in
the centre lay the pigs,” the delight of all good China-
men; the poor beasts were tied, the four legs together.
The sellers and intending purchasers turned them over
and over at their pleasure, and when a fat porker was sold,
the buyer put a pole under the feet, and, with its body
thus slung, two men lifted it upon their shoulders and
bore it away. The Squealing of the pigs and jabbering
of the dealers was something awful; the street being
filled from end to end by a busy throng. Everywhere
we were welcomed by the people, curiosity leading them
to purchase our books greedily; but to-day one of us
was stopped in an address, which he fondly hoped was
interesting the people, by an inquiry whether we had
not brought foreign matches to sell. Fancy being mis-
taken for an itinerant match-seller | We are often
taken for doctors: a poor fellow would come up holding
his jaw, and asking for a cure for toothache ; another
270 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
had something wrong with his eyes, and a third poked
a sick child in our faces: sometimes most distressing
cases of suffering were met with. China is certainly
an inviting sphere for medical missions.
Southward, we found the country becoming more
and more barren, and deficient, too, in other elements
of interest. Whatever be the culture of the town popu-
lations, those of the country districts are undoubtedly
woefully degraded: hundreds upon hundreds seen to-day
were raised little above the brutes. But the most painful
impression is made upon one by the women : to eat,
drink, and sleep is plainly all they think of. In many
a village hardly a soul can read. Undoubtedly the
mind of the nation is in the cities; yet it is in just such
rural districts that the Gospel has won, and is now
winning, some of its brightest triumphs, God making
thus “the foolish things of this world to confound the
wise.” And, after all, we may understand this : among
the untaught there may be more superstition, but there
is less prejudice; and when once the heart is opened
to the truth, it is wonderful how rapidly the intellectual
powers strengthen. Villages could be named where the
desire to read the New Testament has converted persons
of all ages into willing and apt scholars.
Passing through Hsin-lo-hien, a small and very
poor city, we forded the Sha-ho, a river which flows into
the Ta-ching lake, and thus helps to swell the Pei-ho.
At a small hamlet near, the commonness of marble in
the neighbourhood was strikingly shown by the fact
REMARKABLE II)OL. 271
that drinking-troughs by the roadside were made of
that stone. We learnt that it came from the “Hwang ”
mountain, one of the western range, distant about thirty
li from the city of Leing-chow; and which is said to be
wholly of marble.
We reached Ching-ting-foo (630 li from Peking) on
the evening of September 18. This is an interesting
city, and its long occupation by the Romanists as
a central station made us anxious to examine it as
thoroughly as our time would allow. At a distance the
walls look imposing, and there are two large pagodas
which appear above it, and add to the effect; but there
are no suburbs; and on entering the city, we found an im-
mense amount of vacant ground, and in the great street,
the quieter of the two, we saw hardly a single good shop,
and comparatively few people. But by degrees we learnt
to estimate the place better. The street is a very long
one—the walls are reputed to be 40 li in circuit—and
we found it a weary walk to the centre of the town.
About half-way we turned aside to see a large temple,
whose splendid green-tiled chau-pi" attracted our atten-
tion. In the main building we found a most remarkable
idol, probably sixty English feet in height, and at the
base ten or twelve feet in diameter. From a low plat-
form below rose a huge lotus flower bearing a globular
* Chau-pi are short walls erected opposite a door-way, and so
arranged that passers-by cannot see into the interior of a house or yard.
They are occasionally seen very elaborately ornamented, especially those
of temples. They are for defences against evil influences.
272 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
&
figure covered with—so said the priest, we could not
count them—a thousand lohans.” On the flattened top
BUIDIDEIIST IIDOL.
of this globe, were four large and well-executed figures
of Buddha, all alike, and facing the four cardinal points.
Above these rose another globe of somewhat smaller
* Lohan, a disciple of Buddha, of whom there are said to have been
eighteen principal, but a multitude of inferior. The small images
spoken of above are, however, likely enough intended all of them to
represent Buddha himself.

“TEMPLE OF THE GREAT BUDDHA.” 273
dimensions, but also covered with little images; then
four more crowned Buddhas; over them again a third
globe, and, finally, an unbrella-like top covering a
third group of gods. This immense idol is made
wholly of bronze, and is, in all its details, really a
work of art : its age, too, surprised us, for it is in
capital condition. We could not learn when it was cast,
but it was repaired in the Tung dynasty (A.D. 631–
897); and was last retouched by the Emperor Wan-li
Some two hundred years ago.
There is another famous idol at Ching-ting-foo,
which every traveller should see. It, too, is of bronze,
and was cast in the Sung dynasty (A.D. 960–1297).
It is in a great temple not far from the east gate, which,
from the size of the principal god, is known as the
“Ta-foh-sze,” or “The temple of the great Buddha.”
This temple has received many marks of imperial favour,
but the last three Emperors seem to have been less
liberal than their predecessors. It is a splendid pile,
boasting four very large imperial “ting-tsz,” “ and
many handsome buildings, whose green tiles glittered in
the sunlight. The whole place is in good repair. The
approach from the street is by a white marble bridge of
three divisions; crossing this and entering the court-
yard, we find the first building contains three enormous
Buddhas and two inferior gods, whose huge proportions
would alone suffice to make the reputation of half-a-dozen
*, i.e. stone canopies, covering marble slabs, on which are eulogies;
the roofs of thcse erected by imperial command having yellow tiles.
WOL. I. 18
274 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
temples. But these are dwarfed by the great idol, which
is one of the chief glories of Ching-ting-foo. It is placed
in a lofty building at the back, and certainly lacks none
of the accessories needful to deepen impressions. The
room is kept rather dark, and very fragrant incense,
different altogether from what is ordinarily used, filled
it with its grateful fumes. It requires some effort at
first to see the idol, and when at length one's eyes
become accustomed to the “dim religious light,” the
proportions of the figure are so good that it needs still
greater effort to realize its height. It is a standing
idol, and measures nearly 80 English feet in height
(73 Chinese). A sort of crown towers far up towards
the roof. The broad face beneath is calm, but very
meaningless; the hands are brought palm to palm before
the breast, some score of strings of prayer-beads hang
round the neck, and serve for trimming to the robe, and
the feet rest upon a gigantic lotus. On either side of
it is a broad gilt border, ending in a rather useless
curve. From between the folds of the robe, which are
well modelled, protrudes the figure of a man riding
upon a he-goat. Behind, and on either side, is a sort
of back-ground composed of limes, elephants, rocks,
&c., all mouldcd in mud. On either side of the main
god are two smaller ones, of clay, about 50 feet high, one
very ugly, the other good-looking. There is a hole in
the roof by which the upper part of the great idol is
lighted. The sides of the central dome in which it
tands are covered with immense numbers of lohans,
TALK WITH PRIEST.S. 275
while behind the idol and its rockwork are other gods
and strange devices.
It was easy to see that this shrine is to the people
of Ching-ting-foo what that of Diana was to the old
Ephesians. The door appears to be always open, and
the temple is, probably, rarely empty of worshippers. A
large wick floating in oil is kept burning before the god
day and night. One of us entered into a quiet con-
versation with one of the priests, trying to lead him to
a higher faith ; but another priest, who seemed to be
their chief, came up, and, after claiming omniscience
and other divine attributes for Buddha, turned away
with an assumption of contemptuous dignity, saying
that he “could not listen to such talk:” then the group
of four or five priests, who had gathered, at once left.
We had some reason to believe that one or two books
we had given them had convinced them that our objects
were unfavourable to their superstitions.
It was a relief to get out again into the air, and to
find our native companion seated upon the cart with a
large audience around him. A good deal of preaching
was done during our short stay. It was the period for
the provincial literary examinations, and we had thus a
rare opportunity of getting Christian and some scientific
books into the hands of those who could use them well,
and who would carry them to all parts of the district.
Many graduates bought books. One man was amusingly
persistent in his inquiries about English animals, &c.
Had we horses, cows, pigs 2 and so forth. At last, to
276 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
close the conversation, he pointed to some cakes, reeking
with oil, of which the Chinese are very fond, but which
few foreigners can touch, and exclaimed triumphantly:
“You have not got these.” “No,” was the reply;
“nor do we want them.” This was the very mildest
of retorts, but it was accepted as a joke by the audi-
ence, and the man politely bowed himself off. The
Chinese relish a joke amazingly, and to turn the laugh
good-humouredly upon an assailant, is a common means
of defence when any one in a crowd becomes annoying.
We paid a short visit to the Romanist mission,
obtaining admission for a moment into the courtyard.
The buildings almost abut upon those of the Ta-fob-Sze,
and are not upon a street, but behind among the fields.
There are two sets of buildings, separated by a road :
those on the west are occupied by the “Sisters of
Charity” and some native nuns. We heard that they
have from thirty to fifty of these, and three foreign nuns;
but this information seemed hardly reliable ; nor the
further statement that in the eastern buildings they
have one hundred native monks. It is very difficult, in
most cases impossible, to get the truth as to the progress
of Romish missions; but in this case the last-named
number may, perhaps, include scholars in the boys’
School. There is no school for girls at Ching-ting-foo.
There were said to be some five hundred Catholic
families in the neighbourhood, of whom one hundred
reside within the walls and four hundred in the villages,
and there is but one foreign priest. One fact was often
CHING-TING-FOO. 277
remarked on by those to whom we spoke, and it has,
probably, not added to the reputation of Romanism
here. Their buildings are the old Hing-kung, or Im-
perial travelling palace, which, it is said, they have
taken possession of. It is certain that the people
appear far from friendly towards them.
Ching-ting-foo is not square, having a considerable
addition upon the south, and it has four gates, each
double. The native estimate of the population was
15,000 families, or some 75,000 souls; but we thought
this far too high an estimate. Still, the city is, un-
doubtedly, an important one, and must one day be
occupied by Protestant missionaries. A large part of
the resident population are said to be reading men. The
east and west street is the leading thoroughfare, and
here are many good shops. The staple trade is cotton,
immense quantities of which grow in the vicinity.
We also saw a good deal of tobacco drying, the leaves
being hung in pairs upon a line. Besides the buildings
already spoken of, there are others which merit more
notice than we can here give them. Notably, there
are several very old and curious pagodas: one of these
had its top story (the ninth) wholly open, and a
strangely-twisted metal ornament upon the roof.
At Ching-ting-foo the first stage of our journey may
be considered to end, for at this point we left the great
north road and began to turn west, forsaking now the plain
of Chih-li, and entering soon those deep sand-cuttings.
which lie at the foot of the Tae-hang mountains.
( 278 )
CHAPTER XV.
JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.—continued.
PART II.-CHIH-LI AND SHAN-SI,
Significant Names of Chinese Cities — Why-lu-hien — Gateways of
Mountain Villages—A Widow's Benevolence—Varied Scenery—
The “Heavenly Gates”—Levying Black Mail—River Ching-shing
—Water-wheels for Grinding Corn—A Cruel Innkeeper–Coarse
Crockery—Limekilns—A Deserted City—Manufacture of Manure
—Wild-Flowers—Imperial Couriers—Steep and Rugged Roads—
Chinese Cannon–The Great Wall—Insolence of our Carters—
West Heavenly Gate—Moonlight Journey — Ping-ding-chow —
Style of the Houses—Lodging in a Temple—Preaching to the
Chinese—Holiday Costumes—Moon-worship—Coal-pits and Iron-
works.
FIVE li from Ching-ting-foo we forded the Poo-too (or
Grape) river. The stream was low, but covered a broad
sandy bed, and in rainy seasons would not be easily
crossed. At the further side the depth increased greatly
and the cart stopped upon a sandbank, when we had to
mount men's backs in order to reach a ferry-boat : the
scene was sufficiently ludicrous. Some portions of the
road here were very pretty, trees being abundant and
the soil fertile. Cotton is, however, still the staple pro-
duct ; in many places picturesque groups were seen in
SIGNIFICANCE OF NAMIES OF CITIES. 279
the fields picking it, and as evening came on whole
families, parents and children, were seen going home
with their burdens. Towards afternoon, we began to
enter the deep gullies near Why-lu-hien, which we
reached before sunset of Sept. 19th.
Of course the reader knows that all the names of
Chinese cities are significant. Thus Ching-ting-foo, or
Chen-ting, which we had just left, means the true or
correct tranquil foo; Pau-ting, the preserving-tranquillity
foo; the capital is known as, and is often called, the
obedient-to-heaven foo. In like manner Why-lu-hien
is the hien which “conceals the deer;” one can well
imagine that even now game must be plentiful in its
neighbourhood, while in olden time vast herds of deer
may well have found hiding among those hills. The city
is somewhat picturesquely situated, just at the mouth of
the great pass of Ku-kwan, the principal entrance into the
province of Shan-si. It is apparently a thriving place,
and is celebrated for its iron-market. In appearance, it
reminds one of some Yorkshire towns; the wall is
very irregular, a sort of circle, and only about a
mile in circumference. There are considerable suburbs,
and indeed the busiest quarters are outside the gates:
there are only three, the northern one being want-
ing. The ground on which the town is built is very
uneven, and the streets are therefore hilly; many
shops are approached by eight or ten steps. The
natives estimate the population at 5,000 souls, but it
must contain more. This town is merely an emporium,
280 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
no iron being either produced or wrought here. The
districts of Ping-ding-chow, Loo-ngan-foo, and Yü-hien
are the sources of supply; and it is there that the great
piles of kettles, pans, &c., seen in the shops at Why-lu,
are cast. Why-lu is also one of the great centres for
the various cooking-vessels made of Sand.
One is apt to be misled as to the size of the place
by the number of inns, many of which are of the
first class; this arises from the position of the town,
which is a necessary resting-place on the great road
to the west. It is here that all needful preparations
must be made for passing the mountains; and here,
too, those who have just escaped their many dangers
generally remain awhile, to repair their shattered
carts and to rest their mules. Our company found
a good deal to do: wheels were carefully examined, an
additional supply of ropes was procured, some of the
harness was condemned and changed, two extra mules
were hired for our baggage, and the shoes were taken off
all the animals. The rascally carters made the most of
our anticipated difficulties to pester us till after mid-
night with the most impudent demands; but at
length we got away. Our route now lay directly west,
although the valley entered was a winding one, and we
sometimes appeared almost to retrace our steps. The
scenery at the entrance to the pass is certainly inferior
to that at Nan-kow, north of Peking. The hills are
lower and of less broken outline; still, Some of them
are very striking.
THE “WIDOW'S HILLS.”—PASS OF KU-KWAN. 281
At the little hamlet of Tu-mun we made our first
acquaintance with the gateways of the mountain villages.
There are usually two in each village, one at either end;
but few have gates, though, being generally built in a
narrow part of the valley, they might very readily be
made to add greatly to the strength of the pass, and the
Security of the inhabitants, in case of invasion. The
top of the gateway is nearly always crowned by a small
temple.
The hills on the right of the road as we enter from
Chih-li are known as the “Iºwa-fu,” or “Widow’s Hills.”
The name originated from the benevolence of a widow
lady, who, at a cost of ten thousand taels (between
3,000l. and 4,000l.), made a road across the range, which
saved ten li. Like many other things in China, it is
now useless, no one being public-spirited enough to
keep it in repair, and the people are content to risk
their bones as of old upon the ancient road.
Some fifteen li from Why-lu we entered a more
wooded country; walnuts, persimons, dates, and peaches
abounded. Several large flocks of sheep were seen,
and the hill-sides, green to their summits, appear well
adapted for rearing them. The mountains are all said
to be private property, merely paying, like other land,
a yearly tax to the Emperor.
The Pass of Ku-kwan is about 400 li in length,
reckoning from Why-lu-hien in Chih-li to the town of
Sze-tieh in Shan-si. Its character varies greatly in dif-
ferent parts; in some portions the road is good, and
282 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
travelling as easy as upon the plains; in others there
are valleys covered with stones, and intersected by
mountain streams; and in not a few places again the
road passes over the tops of hills, and is as rugged and
dangerous as can well be imagined. The scenery also
presents considerable variety, in parts being bold and
rugged, while elsewhere the hills are of more undulating
outline and carefully cultivated.
There are four great ranges to be crossed, on the
summit of each of which is a double gateway, with a
temple between. These are known as the Tien-mun, or
“Heavenly Gates,” and are distinguished by the names
of the four cardinal points–East, West, North, and
South. The name is given from their fancied nearness
to the clouds: the difficulty of reaching them would
be a better reason for the appellation; for a road, com-
posed of heavy blocks of stone, such as we have before
described, and worn into irregular ruts from ten inches
to two feet deep, now and again broken into steps
and ascending an incline of from 30° to 40°, is not
an inviting carriage-drive.
We crossed the Toong-tien-mun (“East Heavenly
Gate”) on the morning of the 20th September. It is
32 li from Why-lu. From the summit there is a splendid
prospect on either side. We found a set of scoun-
drels living near, strong athletic fellows, who, under
pretence of assisting travellers, levy a sort of black
mail upon all who pass the gate. They have built a
hut about halfway up the ascent ; and here an old
“HEAVENLY GATES.”—BLACK MAIL. 283
fellow sits, who is too feeble for other work. His
position enables him to see far down the road, and
when a cart is discerned, he announces the fact by a
signal to another man upon the gate, when a number of
them run down to help in pushing the vehicle up. One
of our men knew their pranks of old, and refused to let
them touch his cart; though he afterwards gave them
some cash, to secure himself on a future visit ; but the
others were raw to mountain roads, and one cart came
to grief in consequence, the men actually turning it
over by way of proving to us how difficult the ascent
was. As we entered the gate, a sinister-looking priest
at the temple came out, striking a bell, and asking
alms. No doubt, natives often thus gratefully acknow-
ledge their happy deliverance from the frightful ruts, for
it is certainly an immense relief to find oneself at the
top ; although the descent is, perhaps, even more
perilous.
Soon after passing this first gate, we struck the
river Ching-shing. We found it a shallow, though
rapid stream ; the channel, however, is broad, and it
is no doubt often greatly swollen, but this season has
been so dry that all the streams seem dried up. We
were interested in seeing many mill-dams, and particu-
larly by finding most of the corn-mills worked by water-
wheels, moving in a plane: a sort of turbine-wheel, in
fact. This form of wheel, needing so little water-power,
is admirably adapted to these mountain streams. A
wooden spout is fixed so as to direct the stream upon
284 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
the flanges at a slight angle. The shaft turns the
lower of two large stones within the building; contrary
to our custom, the upper stone is fixed, being tied
roughly with strong ropes to the wall. In one corner
of the mill was a winnower, consisting of a long sieve,
suspended by cords from the ceiling over a wooden
tray, and worked by a spindle; the moving power being
obtained from a smaller wheel with a vertical axis,
like the large one.
There are many villages in the pass, most of them
agricultural, and our first night was passed at One called
Chang-tsun. The first inn we stopped at appeared to be
full; and we were about to look elsewhere for quarters,
when the landlord coolly set to work turning Some dozen
men out of the large guest-room. We protested, but
the fellow went down upon his knees, and “knocked
head,” begging us to stay. There was one nice old
man whom we felt really sorry to have disturbed; but
it is always politic to stay in the first inn entered, if
possible, and moreover we were very weary. Of course
no end of polite talk passed; and, of course also, we had
to pay for the innkeeper's extraordinary civility: which,
alas ! was all he could offer us. There was literally
nothing to eat, and, but for our own scanty stores,
we must have gone to rest supperless. Here we saw
Specimens of the strong, but very coarse crockery made
in the district. The principal place for the manufacture
is Hung-kow, a village east of this: Hung-kow ware is
carried to considerable distances.
A DECAYED TOWN. - 285
After leaving Chang-tsun, we again crossed the
river Ching-shing, and indeed travelled along its bed for
some time. The village of Nan-chin-tswang, on a hill
south of the river, attracted our attention from its
numerous limekilns. Houses above, rows of kilns
below, and then the rock reaching down to the river
bank and covered with refuse, made a picture not
often seen in China. The kilns, however, were most
of them idle, this not being the season for working them.
Porty li north of Chang-tsun there is coal. Iron is
not found nearer than Ping-ding-chow; doubtless it
exists, however, all over the district, for we saw the
strata, among which it is found, frequently cropping out
by the road-side. -
We got our first view of the hien city of Ching-
'shing from a hill-top about half a mile away; from
which point the place reminded one strongly of many
an English town. A splendid stone bridge appears to
cross the river, which flows at the foot of the northern
wall, while the nicely tiled roofs and compact look of
the place awakens one's expectations. But a turn in
the road dissipates them, and on entering the gate
the traveller feels that he is almost in a city of the dead.
There are but some six or seven arches of the old
bridge remaining, and the river can now only be crossed
by a miserable ferry. The town is prettily situated on
a hill slope in the centre of a small amphitheatre of
hills, some of which are very picturesque; but the
walls are in a ruinous condition, the gateways filled
286 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
with rubbish, the miserable buildings fast falling into
decay, and the deserted streets with their grass-grown
pavements confirm the assertion of the half-dozen people
we spoke to, that there are not five hundred inhabitants
in the place. The road does not pass through Ching-
shing, though it probably once did. There is a rather
striking open pagoda on a hill-top mear.
The natives have a curious mode of preparing
manure all through this district. Stalks of millet and
straw of all kinds are chopped up, mixed with earth,
and spread upon the roads. In a short time this com-
position is trampled into pulp by the mules and horses as
they pass; it is then collected into heaps, and reserved
for use during the ensuing Spring. They thus return
to the soil the bulk of what has been taken from it.
A word or two must be said about the floral beauties
of this pass. Sheltered in good measure from the
burning sun which scorches up the plains, and nurtured
by the mountain streams, at this season of the year a
thousand wild-flowers cover the old rocks with their
brilliant colours, and delight the eye with their luxuriant
beauty. We saw some four or five varieties of daisy;
the common English flower was rare, and, when seen,
looked forced and stalky; but there were purple ones
with yellow centre, pink ones, and large white ones.
And there were bluebells, wild pinks, convolvuli, and
foxgloves, with many flowers strange to both of us,
which a botanist would have rejoiced in. We gathered
many specimens; but the want of proper means for
WILD-FLOWERS.—IMPERIAL COURIERS. 287
keeping them, and the pressure of more important
duties, prevented our securing them.
We often met imperial couriers. One who passed
near Ching-shing was more than usually well mounted,
and dressed like a mandarin, with official cap and
feather ; he was attended, too, by a soldier: ordi-
marily these men are somewhat ragged-looking. The
letters, &c. are carried in a yellow bundle, slung over
the shoulders so as to hang behind like a knapsack.
They all ride fast, relays of horses being provided for
them at the various stages. -
In the afternoon we passed the boundary between
Chih-li and Shan-si. It is marked by a rough but
massive stone pailow, which spans the road. The hills
hereabouts are many of them very romantic. We also
passed another famous point to-day. I refer to the
Bei-tien-mun (“North Heavenly Gate”)—the second of
the gates before mentioned. The road for most of the
way from the Toong-tien is a very bad one ; riding,
whether on horseback or in a vehicle, is all but impos-
sible : indeed, one wonders how carts can pass at all.
It is odd to see a cart labouring up, or tumbling down
those steep hill-sides; the motion suggests nothing
more forcibly than a ship in the midst of a rolling sea :
the lurches are fearful, now to this side, and then to
that, with spasmodic plunges forward, and the wheels
rebound from the stones as though made of india-
rubber. -
The Pei-tien-mun is considered the highest point of
288 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
the pass, and is closed at night. The gate itself is
similar to the one already described. We found four
soldiers' tents inside, there being a guard kept here.
Four old guns lay rusting on one side; they were each
about twelve feet long, nine feet to the touch-hole, with
a diameter at the muzzle of three inches, and a bore of
one and a half inches. About the middle was an iron
ring, to be used in lifting and carrying the gun; the
heavier end was let into a heavy wooden stock. The
soldiers were like the generality of their fraternity—ill-
clad, cut-throat-looking men. They were somewhat
surprised to see foreigners in foreign costume in this
part of China. The officers questioned us minutely, but
offered no objection to our going forward.
The other point of interest was the Great Wall. If
the reader will consult any good map of China, he will
see that there is a sort of arm of this celebrated barrier
which stretches from the hills north of the capital
almost the entire length of the eastern boundary of the
imperial province of Chih-li, following the mountain
ranges. Our route led us across this part of the wall,
at a point not very far from its termination. We got
our first view of it from a sharp bend in the road near
the village of Kau-tan-i. Here two towers appeared on
Contiguous hill-tops, but no wall was visible between
them ; just beyond, however, we came upon the gate
itself: this is the Ku-kwan properly so called. It has
been pretty strong, but is fast falling to decay; the
buildings above are almost roofless; it is, however,
THE GREAT WALL-A DIFFICULTY. 289
still guarded. A yamun stands close by, and toll is
demanded from all travellers. Our passports freed us
from this charge, though the fellows in charge were
barely civil, and hesitated some time about letting us
pass. As to the wall, it is in Sorry repair here, and
indeed can never have been equal in strength and finish
to that at the Chū-yung-kwan, north of Peking. Much
of what we saw was built of loose stones, and without
regularly formed embrasures. Still, it is a wonderful
monument; the towers especially are solid and im-
posing.
September 22nd opened wet and gloomy, and the
aspéct of external things was in other respects un-
promising. It is no joke to be imprisoned in a dirty
Chinese inn upon the mountains, at the mercy of any
long-tailed shark who chooses to consider barbarians his
lawful prey; yet this bade fair to be our lot, at any
rate for a day or two. Our carters had been growing in
insolence; and imagining we were now in their power,
they broke out into open rebellion, refusing to go a step
further, unless paid in advance for the whole journey;
we had an awful morning's work with them. Un-
luckily, no official was near ; a petty revenue officer in
the village could do nothing in the matter. One of
us walked back some three miles to the wall, but the
mandarin there pleaded that he had no civil jurisdiction,
and that, besides, he belonged to the province of Chih-li,
and not to that of Shan-si; we were therefore helpless,
and it needed all our experience of native character to
WOL. I. 19
290 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
get out of the scrape. We persuaded one man to go; but
now the innkeeper interposed, and would not allow one
cart to leave without the rest. At last Mr. Lees started
to walk to the nearest city, Ping-ding-chow, and this
decision brought them to their senses. The innkeeper
became alarmed about the possible consequences to
himself, and by his help we were soon once more upon
the road. We complained of our detention to the
mandarins, and on our return journey found that the
innkeeper had been changed.
The “West Heavenly Gate” was passed immediately
after. Near it is a temple, halfway up the rocks, at a
turn in the road. Just beyond it is a gateway, and
then some magnificent rocks, rising perpendicularly
from the road, which called forth an involuntary ex-
clamation from both of us. There is a deep ravine
here on one side of the road, and near the gate is placed
a stone, with the words—“At this place beware of the
mountain water. Travellers should not shelter from
rain here.” Several such stones were subsequently
See Il.
We stopped for a meal at the pretty village of
Chiau-teu, situated on the edge and sides of a
deep ravine; the buildings are mostly stone. Two
pinnacles of rock rise up from the depth below, and
are each crowned by a small temple, having rather a
striking effect. The hills near are all terraced to their
summits. In order to reach Ping-ding-chow before the
Sabbath, it was necessary for us to travel late ; the
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HOME STYLE OF BUILDING. 291
evening ride was splendid, as it was nearly full moon,
and almost light enough to read. For the most part
the road ran along the bed of a mountain torrent, now
almost dry, and between two fine ranges of hills.
Getting down from our jolting carts, we walked on
ahead, full of the thousand memories which such
scenes always awaken.
Ping-ding-chowimpressed us very favourably from the
first; though the eastern suburbs are long and straggling.
The road winds along the side of the river channel, and
is often separated from it only by a low wall, over which
houses and temples were seen, dotted here and there
picturesquely, and looking, with their many lights, and
with all the dirt and squalor hidden by the friendly veil
of night, like the outskirts of some Lancashire town.
The style of building is peculiar, and the dwellings
struck us at once as more like our own than the typical
Celestial house, which would seem to have been modelled
after the patriarchal tent. Many of them are thoroughly
well-built massive structures; usually square, with flat
roofs, surrounded by elegant battlements, and steps up
to them from the outside, like Syrian houses. The
windows and doors have circular tops, and the opening
for the latter often extends from the roof to the level
of the street. In some places, such buildings are
seen one above another on the hill-sides, the roof
of one being on a level with the doorway of its neigh-
bour, and every window and door clearly visible from
the road below. Within the city, the ordinary Chinese
292 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
buildings are more common. Entering at the east
gate, we found a silent street, but one which indicated
plainly enough a wealthy city. Our inn, people said,
was at the west gate, but we went on and on, past
dozens of wooden and marble pailows and endless
rows of shops, before we reached it, and then, wearied
and hungry, were coolly told to move on another stage,
as there was no room. The same pleasant reception
met us elsewhere, for five hundred imperial troops had
just arrived from Kan-su, en route to Chih-li, and not
a vacant room could be had for love or money: even our
passports could not help us ; the magistrates sent some
subordinates to find us quarters, but without success.
Long after midnight, and when we had been in the
city more than two hours, we managed to rouse an old
priest in a temple near, and gladly flung ourselves to
rest upon the floor of the main building, just under the
nose of the goddess. .
It was a strange place in which to awake on a
Sabbath morning. Our bed was, we have just said,
upon the floor ; some cypress planks, two or three
inches thick, which we found propped against the wall,
and which were no doubt intended for somebody’s coffin,
made us no bad couch. We took the precaution to rear
one huge piece against the door, to keep out intruders.
On waking, the first thing that met our eyes was the
meaningless gilt face of the idol, half-hidden behind a
handsome screen of netting, such as is in almost
“universal use in Shan-si temples. The figure was covered
A NIGHT IN A TEMPLE. 293
by a richly-embroidered robe; on one side of it, also
partially concealed by the screen, was a tiger with a
little child upon its back; on the other, a man with
another child in his arms. Four pillars in the centre
helped to bear the weight of the roof, and the two
nearest to the shrine had gaudily-painted carving upon
them. On one was a dragon wrapping its hideous
form around the column, and throwing out a tongue of
fire in angry defiance; on the other, a boy stood upon a
cloud, with his hands folded in the attitude of prayer,
while a dove hovered over his head. On the altar
in front, our baskets and travelling-gear shared the
honours with the paraphernalia of worship. To com-
plete the picture, numbers of paper-lamps adorned the
walls, and ornamental tablets, celebrating the virtues of
the idol, covered every available corner and angle of the
roof. We found the temple was a very large one, and
evidently popular, as votive tablets met the eye at every
turn. It was on the side of a hill, and our room was
nearly the highest in the temple. A long, straight
flight of stone steps led down to the lower courts, which
were filled with large trees and flowers. We had the
town behind us, so no glimpse could be got of it; but
before us lay a valley Smiling in the morning sun, and
beyond it another range of beautiful hills. -
Within an hour or two the soldiers marched away,
and we moved into one of the best inns in the city,
and then commenced work. Let the reader imagine
himself standing among the throng of deluded wor-
294, JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
shippers at some idol shrine, or surrounded by a crowd
of eager and attentive listeners in a quiet corner of
some Chinese city. It is with a strange mingling of joy
and sorrow, that a true-hearted missionary looks upon
those upturned faces. “What,” he thinks, “can one
feeble voice do amid these Babel sounds of ignorance
and superstition ?” Yet, weak and solitary as he is,
the almighty power of His divine message stimulates and
strengthens him—a power whose victorious evidences
are multiplying every day. Such were often our
thoughts during this tour, and never more frequently
than during our short stay at Ping-ding-chow. We
preached in almost every part of the city, choosing
retired spots a little off the great thoroughfares, and
meeting with many an interesting incident.
It was the season for a great heathen festival,
and the streets were crowded with people in holiday
costume; feasting was going on everywhere. We were
struck with the number of girls, from seven to sixteen
years of age, gaudily dressed, and with their heads
loaded with flowers, standing at house-doors, or carried
in open chairs to the temples. This holiday attire has
to do with the worship of the moon, which falls upon
this day, and is specially favoured by the weaker sex.
In the evening we had an opportunity of seeing the
form of this worship. A table was placed in the middle
of the inn-yard, and an incense-pot upon it, with the
lighted sticks of incense arranged in a rough sort of
circle. Such a table is said to be spread in every court-
MOON-WORSHIP-PING-DING-CHOW. 295
yard, and loaded with moon-cakes (a sweetmeat not
unlike the simnel-cakes of Lancashire, which perhaps
had a similar origin), and many other dainties. The
ceremony over, the family feast upon the good things.
Ping-ding-chow is not a large city; the walls are
about 10 li in circuit, forming a parallelogram, 3 li
by 2; but there is a very considerable population in
the suburbs. As already said, the street running east
and west is the main thoroughfare. Here are at least
500 shops, all of them verandahed, and we counted
more than thirty large pailows in this street alone.
Some of these monuments are, however, falling to
pieces, and even the elaborate carving of others would
hardly save them from destruction were this a European
city, they are such an obstruction to the traffic. From
the great street the ground rises irregularly on either
hand; within the south-west angle of the city there is
a high hill, which formerly had a good wall all round its
summit, making it a sort of citadel. The gateway is
still in good condition, and it is approached from the
town by a well-kept paved stone slope. The best view
of the city is obtained from the top of this road.
The population of Ping-ding is said to be about
twenty thousand. The place must grow rapidly, when
the resources of the district become more generally
known. Coal and iron abound in the hills near, and early
on the Monday morning we set off in search of some of
the works, walking six or eight miles. A mile east of
the city we found a perpendicular coal-pit, worked by a
296 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
windlass. The Chinese pits are usually what are known
as “ingoes,” i.e. simple inclined descents, like huge
rabbit-warrens, burrowed in the hill-sides, and never
very deep. The mouth of this pit was six feet square,
and the sides were lined with stone.
Three miles further on are the villages of Si-kow
and Toong-kow, both famous for their iron-works. But
these are, after all, nothing more than very primitive
pan-factories; which, however, must have been wrought
for many centuries, seeing that many hill-sides are
covered with slag. Walls, and even houses, are built of
broken moulds, and as these are all of one particular
kind and size of pan, the effect is as though rows of
cannon-balls were embedded in mud. A man guided us
to one of the factories; like the coal-pit just spoken
of, the place was silent, this being holiday-time. The
casting goes on in the autumn and winter, the summer-
heat making it impossible to work earlier. We saw and
brought away specimens of the ore. No mines were
near. Natives told us that lime, coal, coal-charcoal,
iron, and a clay they called kal (which we took for
kaolin) are all found in the immediate neighbourhood.
A man was pounding kal, which is used to mix with
sand for moulds. There are about twenty coal-pits now
in working, which range from 60 to 200 feet in depth.
Coal at Ping-ding is 70 cash per picul, or 3%d. for
188 English pounds.
( 297 )
CHAPTER XVI.
JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.—continued.
PART III.-SHAN-SI.
Ascent of the “South Heavenly Gate”—Chinese Funeral Rites—Signs
of Mineral Wealth—Native Soldiers—Chinese at an Eclipse of the
Moon—Cave-houses—Boundary-stones—Dangerous Road—Preci-
pices and Ruts—Pass of Ku-kwan—Plain of Tai-yuen—A Sacred
Tree—A noisy Bed-room—Training an Archer—-Mission-work—
Temple and Idols of the City God—Views of Foreign Buildings—
Roman Catholic Mission—Imperial Palace—Visit to a Cannon-
Foundry—Tai-yuen-foo—An Imitation of Peking—Mohammedans
—Obstructions and Exactions—Presentation of a Tablet of Honour
—Lofty Tower-houses—Military Posts and Beacons—Temples to
the God of Literature—An Inquisitive Mob-Hieu-kow—Curiosity
of the Women—Swampy Roads—Chi-hien—A Fight—Conversa-
tion with Native Romanists.
ON leaving Ping-ding-chow, we at once commenced the
ascent of the last of the four gates—the “Nan-tien-
mun,” or “South Heavenly Gate,” the summit of the
last great range between us and the fertile plain of Shan-
si. The climb was a stiff one, and the descent on the
further side by far the worst we had yet met with. In
parts the path was absolutely broken into steps more
than a foot deep, down which our carts crashed with
fearful lurches; one was upset twice, and the wheel
298 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
broken. There is a magnificent panorama spread before
the traveller, as he leaves the western archway of the
gate. -
At the village of T-chingi, we overtook a coffin
suspended between two long poles, and carried by two
mules; we saw many such afterwards, this being the
common mode of transporting the dead in the hill-
country. This corpse was being taken to the province
of SZ-chwen, the native place of the deceased. A cock,
confined in a basket, was placed upon the coffin; the
custom being, in cases where a man has died away from
home, and the relatives wish to remove the body to the
family burial-place, to purchase a cock, and carry it to
the grave; the notion being that the cock conveys the
spirit. On arrival at the tomb, the bird is either set at
liberty by the mourners, who would in no case venture
to eat it ; or it is solemnly killed by cuts made upon its
forehead, the blood being used to write the name of the
deceased upon the coffin. Such is the practice here;
but in all these superstitions, the custom varies greatly
in different parts of the country, and few can tell why
any given custom is observed: “Our ancestors did so,”
would be considered by most Chinamen a sufficient
reason for any absurdity. -
From the Nan-tien-mun the road gradually descends
to the plains of Shan-si, and for some miles west of I-
chingi we had to traverse a terribly stony part of the
pass. The mountains hereabouts are wild and barren ;
but there were many indications of mineral wealth, and
NATIVE TROOPS.—AN ECLIPSE. 299
coal-mines were heard of at various places north and
south of our route. In the valley near Ping-ding-chow
we picked up a large piece of ironstone, which appeared
to resemble the celebrated “black band.” -
A large number of native troops on the march passed
us in one of the valleys; they were a queer lot of raga-
muffins, reminding one rather of an army in flight
after defeat than of a victorious host, for they were
scattered along the road in parties of two, three, or five,
just as they pleased, making no attempt at marching
in time. Some had bamboo spears thirty feet long,
others carried old matchlocks, very few had swords.
Strings of baggage-camels followed at intervals, carrying
tents and bedding. Yet there were many fine-looking
fellows among them; good raw material, if their officers
were worth a rush : it is the ruling class in China
which is so utterly rotten. -
Thanks to these troops we had to pass village after
village before we could find shelter, and at length were
forced to content ourselves with quarters in which an
Englishman would have hesitated to put his horse.
We had hardly got settled before an awful noise began
at the gate; running out to discover the reason, we
found there was an eclipse of the moon. John China-
man firmly believes that Luna is in trouble at such
times, and that she will inevitably be swallowed up by
some wandering celestial dragon, unless he can frighten
the monster away : therefore drums, gongs, cymbals,
and all the other noise-making abortions he has ever
300 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIEI-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
invented to torture human tympanums are called into
requisition, and the effect is something terrific. One
of us went out and read the good folks a short lecture on
astronomy, advising them all to go home to bed; advice
which most appeared inclined to take, but a blockhead
close by shut up the foreigner with the Sage remark
that “Every nation has its own customs:” this en-
lightened dictum at once revived the faith of the vil-
lagers in their moon-eating dragon. It is perhaps hardly
worth while to add that the priests led the way in this
miserable nonsense.
Cave-houses have been numerous all through this
pass. Sometimes they consist merely of one or two
rooms tunnelled out of the side of the road, in places
where, as is often the case, the fields are elevated some
dozen or twenty feet above the highway; at other times
one sees them tier above tier on the hill-sides. The soil
being here a light loam, excavation is easy. The front
wall is left several feet thick, recesses are cut out at plea-
sure for cupboards, beds, &c., while the Smoke escapes
through a hole over the door, or sometimes up a flue to
the field above. The villagers of this pass seem more
than ordinarily jealous of their boundaries, placing stones
to mark them. These stones have usually the names of
two or more villages upon them, and are looked upon as
a sort of evidence that the grass, &c., grown near, are
the property of those villages. We saw these stones
nowhere else, and their use here may indicate a certain
sense of insecurity, such as one might look for among a
BOUNDARY-STONES.–SHAN-YANG. 301
mountain population perhaps not very easily reached by
law, and the better part of which would naturally com-
bine for self-preservation. On every side hereabouts
there are the most picturesque gullies, formed doubtless
by the rains of many successive years. In one place
especially, the road for some three hundred yards was
not more than eight feet wide, while on either side
yawned a precipice of from two to three hundred feet in
depth. The road must be continually changing; for
more than once we came to places where landslips had
but recently occurred ; and in many portions travelling
must be exceedingly dangerous after heavy rains. Even
now the carts often ran quite near enough the edges of
these precipices to shake one's nerves; the wheel pass-
ing over ugly holes or shaking some huge piece of par-
tially disintegrated earth which must soon find a resting-
place in the gulf below.
By noon of Sept. 24 we reached Shan-yang, a hien
city, not far from Tai-yuen-foo. This is a poor place,
the only busy part being the eastern suburb, and the
only building of interest a four-storied temple built over
a massive gateway at the entrance to it. The population
is reputed to be about 1,000 families. Cloth and satin
are manufactured here, but the people depend upon the
south of the province for the raw material. Leaving
by the western gate, we happened to mount the wall,
and were rewarded by finding the barracks over the arch
used as a factory for making gunpowder; the manufac-
ture was carried on on a very limited Scale, however, and
302 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
the powder was very coarse. We were interested in
finding potatoes and beet-root growing here, both appa-
rently indigenous; the latter was very fine, and the
former had the additional merit of being cheap, a large
basinful, ready boiled, only costing us a halfpenny.
Who would expect to hear of broad and narrow-
gauges in China 2 yet it was a change of gauge which
detained us more than two hours at Sze-tieh, a market-
town of some 10,000 people, about 85 li from Tai-yuen.
At first we laughed at the idea of changing our axle-
trees, but a look at the ruts soon convinced us of its
necessity: we must keep “on the line” here, or rather
in it; and while on the roads in Chih-li the gauge is
three feet six inches, in Shan-si it is four feet seven, and
in Shen-si four feet two.
At this town the pass ends,” and the traveller enters
the plain of Tai-yuen. Proceeding twenty li he obtains
the first view of the plain in which the city stands.
Very glorious it looked, well wooded and fertile. It lies
between two great ranges of hills, which, meeting in
* The following are the relative distances of the principal points in
the Ku-kwan Pass :—
Why-lu-hien to the East Gate ................................... 32 li.
East Gate to North Gate 65,
North Gate to Wall (Ku-kwan) .............................. 8,
Great Wall to West Gate 40,
West Gate to Ping-ding-chow ................................... 55,
Ping-ding to South Gate 5,
In all 205 li, or nearly 70 miles, to which should be added the distance
between Ping-ding and Sze-tieh, much of which is as rough mountain
travel as any other part of the road, and making the pass at least 130
English miles in length.
HEALING WIRTUES OF AN OLD TREE. 303
the north of the province, run almost parallel to each
other down to the south of the province. The provincial
capital was not visible from where we now stood, a spur
of the Ta-hang mountains hiding it from view.
A few li from the city, we came upon a curious
illustration of popular superstition. There is an acacia
by the roadside, evidently very old, for its thick trunk
exhibits many traces of decay, and the poles which
support some of the branches seem to have been there
many years. On one side of it is a pailow, made of
the wood of the tree itself; in front, an altar, with
incense-pots, huge sham candlesticks, and all the other
apparatus of idolatrous worship, and every available spot
was crowded with votive tablets and inscriptions. The
tree is known as the “Tang-hwai,” or “Acacia of the
Tang”—tradition declaring that it was planted during
that dynasty. If that were true, it would be more than
1,000 years old; anyhow, the old tree is now renowned
for its healing virtues, and poor deluded people come
from places even a hundred miles away, to be cured
of their diseases. The method pursued is, after the
due performance of worship, to take a little of the bark
of the tree, bruise it to powder, and then drink it in
water; of course some recover, and these put up the
tablets. One felt startled at finding so degraded a form
of heathenism in China; though a living tree is, per-
haps, at least as good an object of worship as a dead
stock. We shall have to allude to this Fetishism again.
We entered Tai-yuen after dark, and found ourselves
304 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
shut out of the inner city, the gates of which are closed
at dusk: we had heard the signal-gun while yet Some
miles away. The inns outside the gate were already
full, and there was difficulty in getting quarters; at last
an appeal ad benevolentiam succeeded. A decent-look-
ing tradesman opened his premises to the strangers, and
gave up his counting-house for a bedroom. Thump,
thump! twang, twang ! It was a few moments before
we could make out what the noises meant which
wakened us. The sounds came from the adjoining
room, into which our own opened, and it turned out
that our host, among other trades, practised that of
military trainer, preparing candidates for the periodical
examinations in feats of strength and skill. Looking
through a hole in the paper partition, we saw a poor
fellow standing in a most uncomfortable position, his
arms supported near the wrists by long poles with rests
like crutches. Twenty minutes afterwards, he still stood
there, “eating suffering,” as he said; the posture being
that assumed by native archers at the moment that the
arrow is directed towards the mark. We laughingly told
him to save himself the trouble; as before he could
take his degree, the bow would be an obsolete weapon in
China. Outside the door stood blocks of stone, each
weighing 300 pounds, with catches for the hand; our
friend had been lifting these, and hence the thumping.
We settled during the morning at an inn in the very
centre of the city. The day passed in the work of our
mission; large crowds were addressed, and many books
CITY GODS. 305
sold. The disposition of the people we found to be very
friendly; persons of all classes visited us at the inn,
and in few cases had we any difficulty in conversing with
them ; indeed, strangely enough, our native assistant
did not seem so well understood as ourselves, perhaps
in consequence of his using a larger number of words
peculiar to his own dialect.
Before recommencing our duties on the 27th, we
traversed rapidly a good portion of the northern city.
On the north side of the drum-tower the population is
very sparse. Among other buildings visited was the
temple to the city god, which is in a street not far from
the north gate : every Chinese city has a temple of this
kind. The idea is, that as in this life every city has its
magistrate to whom all residents are subject, so in the
spirit-world all who have resided in that city, and died
there, are subordinate to a ghostly dignitary who
possesses like rank with his earthly prototype. Of
course, such a dreadful personage should have worthy
homage, and accordingly his temple is usually much
frequented.
The city god of Tai-yuen-foo possesses a noble suite
of buildings, and they are kept in good repair; the main
temple was one of the most effective we have seen. The
chief idol was a sitting figure at least fifteen feet high;
on either side of him stood five others, equally well
proportioned, and ten or twelve feet high. The Chinese
are famous for their brilliant colours, and the glittering
robes of their mud-gods generally justify their reputa-
WOL. I. 20
306 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
tion. In this case the pink, purple, blue, yellow and
bronze were so bright and glossy, and the ornamentation
—especially the imitation of furs—so artistically done,
that we instinctively felt at the flat mud-backs of the
monsters to see if they were really nothing more than
clay.
Outside the doorway and in other parts of the build-
ings were pictures, a sort of frescoes, which interested
us for several reasons. In the first place, they are all
evidently intended to represent foreign scenes, and the
painter must somehow have got hold of foreign sketches,
probably of continental cities, for the buildings have
hardly an English look, and many of them have crosses
upon them. Then again the native artist had succeeded
wonderfully well with the perspective. But the most
curious thing about them was the evidence they afforded
of the national feeling towards foreigners, and that (as
others have remarked) the prejudices we have had to
encounter do not prevail so much among the people,
as among their rulers. These pictures had given great
offence to the officials, and all the larger ones were more
or less defaced by order of the Fu-tai.
Among our visitors had been a respectable Chinese
scholar, whom we suspected to be a native Romish
priest. Mr. Lees afterwards met him again in the
street, when he, with great courtesy, insisted on his
visiting the new Roman Catholic Mission in the north
street, not far from the gate. The buildings are not
extensive, and apparently only recently acquired, for
ROMAN CATHOLIC MISSION. 307
workmen were still engaged with the repairs, and no
part was yet occupied. Had it been otherwise, Mr.
Leng, for such was his name, might possibly have been
less anxious about the visit; it being a most difficult
thing to get any accurate information as to the work of
our Roman Catholic friends, and, above all, to see any-
thing of it ourselves. However, in answer to questions,
the priest stated that they have in Shan-si, sixteen native
and three foreign priests, besides the bishop. Four of
the Chinese priests have passed some years in the
college at Rome, among them Mr. Leng himself: he
had also visited London. Their membership in the
Tai-yuen-foo district he stated to be 600 within the city,
and about 2,000 in the villages. He was rather a pre-
possessing man, about thirty-five years of age, knew
something of Latin and Italian, and appeared in other
respects intelligent. He declined a Testament which
was offered to him, saying that he had a Latin Bible,
and a translation of it into Chinese, which he had himself
prepared. As to the differences between Romanism and
Protestantism, he said, “The foreign priests had ex-
plained all that to him. Our doctrine was the same.”
Of course the question was not discussed any further.
The eastern part of the city is very thickly peopled;
but we could only give it a hurried visit. Near the
south-eastern angle is the Wan-sheu-kung, or imperial
palace, a set of buildings found in every provincial city.
It is really a temple, and arranged as such ; but all the
rooms except one are empty, and in this one the tablet
308 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
of the reigning Emperor takes the place of images. The
roofs are covered with the imperial yellow tiles, and in
other ways the fiction is maintained of the actual pre-
sence of the sovereign: at the winter solstice, all the
officials, civil and military, visit the temple to offer their
congratulations, as if to his Majesty in person.
Just beyond is a larger enclosure, known as the Hsin-
si, said to have been formerly an imperial palace, and
more recently used as a temple. In the fall of 1865 it
was struck by lightning and burnt, and the old buildings
are now all heaps of ruins; a number of huge charred
trees in the courtyard telling of what they once were by
the thickness of their blackened trunks. The natives
evidently regarded this misfortune as a public loss,
for we often heard it mentioned; sometimes with the
remark added, that there is now nothing worth seeing
in Tai-yuen. The place is to be diverted to other pur-
poses; new buildings are rapidly rising, to be used for
the provincial literary examinations. The situation is
a fine one, commanding an extensive prospect beyond
the wall. It would only weary the reader to detail
visits to other temples; to have seen one, especially
if it be a large one, is to have seen all, as there is
little variety, either in design or ornamentation.
Seeing a forge-fire in the east street, we asked
permission to enter the yard; it was readily granted,
and we were interested in finding that we had procured
admission to an imperial gun and cannon foundry. The
men were at dinner, but willingly answered questions
A CANNON-FOUNDRY.—TAI-YUEN-FOO. 309
put to them; showing the guns in various stages, and
explaining the mode of making them. About sixty
men are kept in regular employ, each of whom earns
one hundred cash per diem (about 6d.), besides his
food. The guns are all made by one process. Iron
comes in bars, larger or smaller as the case may be ; it
is then wrought into long strips of the thickness of the
gun required, and these strips are subsequently twisted
and welded into shape. The bore is smoothed by a sort
of auger, and all is done by hand labour. Some finished
guns lay in the yard, highly polished; they were from
five to seven feet long, and of different bores. --
Tai-yuen-foo is a large and noble city, though hardly
so important, perhaps, as we had expected. There is an
inner and an outer city, as at Peking, of which Tai-yuen
is rather a funny caricature. The outer city is only
upon the south ; its wall is of mud, and is much
dilapidated. There are three gateways; but one is
closed, and the gates of the other two are wanting:
the population of this southern suburb is very small.
The walls of the city proper are not very lofty, but in
good repair, and surrounded by a moat. There are
eight gates, and over each of these, as well as at each
corner of the walls, there are splendid towers. The
streets are from fifty to seventy feet wide, and many of
them strongly reminded us of the capital. But though
there are many good shops, the peculiar style of shop-
architecture, which forms so striking a feature of the
Peking streets, is wanting. One could not but laugh
310 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
on finding the principal yamun made to mimic the
imperial palace; in the grounds behind is a paltry
artificial hill, with some gimcrack sheds upon it, called
by the people the “Mei-shan,” and behind this a small
pond, in imitation of the pleasure-grounds of the Em-
peror. The situation of the city may have suggested
this mimicry, which is carried out in many ways. Of
the two sites, though similar in point of beauty, the
palm must certainly be given to Tai-yuen-foo. It lies
between two noble ranges of hills, at the head of a
most fertile plain; and the mountains are much nearer
the city than at Peking. From the walls the views on
every side are very beautiful. As to population, our
estimate made it about half that of Tien-tsin ; and this
agreed well with the often-repeated statement of intelli-
gent natives, who said that there were from forty to fifty
thousand families, or about two hundred and fifty thou-
sand people.
Of the Catholic element we have already spoken. It
remains to add, that a Mohammedan told us that there
were only two hundred families of his co-religionists
within the walls, and that they have a mosque and three
Ah-hungs: we had not time to seek them out. There
are important carpet-manufactories in the place. Felt
caps are made-extensively in some villages near, and
a few silkworms are kept a few li to the north. We
were also told that at Chin-sa-pu, 200 li north, there
are silver mines, now unworked ; that seventy li west,
iron is abundant and good; that thirty li west, there is
DISPUTES WITH CARTERS. 311
good coal, and that sulphur and hot springs are also
found in the neighbourhood.
Anxious to secure, if possible, a quieter Sabbath
than we could hope for in Tai-yuen, we left early in
the morning of the 28th of September; but ill-fortune
attended us at starting. To begin with, one of our
carters got into a quarrel with a man from whom he
had hired mules, and this fellow actually laid himself
right under the wheel of the cart to prevent our leaving;
after a provoking delay, and no end of noise, five
hundred cash procured our release. This is a good
illustration of the tactics of these scoundrels; they
calculate on a traveller’s impatience, and watch their
opportunity, waiting till the last moment to make their
roguish demands. We had hardly done with this man,
before our second carter got us into another scrape,
coming into collision with a large barrow : it was really
the fault of the barrow-man, and no harm was done;
but of course the foreigners were fair game, and we
were therefore at once overwhelmed with a torrent of
abuse, which drew a large crowd. The people sided
with our carter; but notwithstanding, his opponent seized
him by the belt, which was equivalent to putting a
break upon the wheel. An Englishman in such a case
would have used his fists; but this a Chinaman rarely
does: moreover, our man had wit enough to know that,
as a stranger in the place, resistance would only
multiply his troubles. Mr. Lees interfered ; but the
fellow had a spade in his hand, and made a feint of
812 , JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-II, SHAN-SI, ETC.
using it. We pacified him at last by a present of one
Or two small books. -
Just within the gate we met a procession with music
and banners, conveying in state a tablet to the public
offices. On inquiry we learnt that it was a compli-
mentary present from a large number of the leading
citizens to the chief magistrate, and intended as a recog-
nition of the equity and consideration with which he
had discharged the duties of his office. It was a very
handsome tablet, some six or seven feet long, painted
blue with gilt characters, and a richly-carved border.
Below the inscription was a long list of the names of
the donors. We met many mandarins and others in
official costume, all in carts, apparently going to the
yamun to offer their congratulations. Two lofty pagodas
strike the eye on leaving the city; they are close
together, and form part of a large temple upon one of
the eastern hills. -
Our course now lay nearly due south, the road
running between the two ranges. The western hills
are very beautiful, and apparently of a different forma-
tion from the Ta-hang mountains we had just passed,
being level as a line at the top. Their sides are richly
varied in outline and colour, while in the plain at their
feet there is an abundance of wood, and a number of
what in the distance look like small lakes : probably the
ground thereabouts is marshy, that being the lowest
part of the district.
South of Tai-yuen, the flat-roofed houses appeared
TOWER-HOUSES.—MILITARY POSTS. 313
again; the roofs are used largely for drying grain. A
few miles further on we met with another and yet
more extraordinary style of building, which seems
almost peculiar to this province, and which, for want
of a better name, we may call tower-houses. They are
lofty square brick towers, with castellated battlements,
many of them fifty or sixty feet high, with a base of
from fifteen to twenty feet. They have usually one
or two arched windows near the top ; the roofs are
flat like the houses, and have sometimes a sort of shed
built on them. People said the wealthy liked to have
these towers; and perhaps they are intended to afford
protection in times of disturbance; if so, they indicate
a sense of insecurity. Anyhow, they are a most pic-
turesque addition to the landscape; seen among the
trees, or in the middle of a village, they remind one
of the church towers of England, and we often half
expected to hear the bells ring out a merry chime.
Sometimes they are so grouped and walled in as to
appear like old baronial castles.
We ought before this to have said something about
the military posts, so universal upon the great roads.
They are met with every 10 li, and indicate a careful
surveillance in days gone by ; at present one rarely finds
them occupied. In their most complete form, there is
usually a large tower, with barracks, and a sort of watch-
house. Sometimes in front of the tower there is a
second but smaller one. The larger tower is of earth
faced with brick, about fifteen feet Square at the base,
814 JournBY THROUGH CHIHL, SHANSI, ETC.
and twelve to fifteen feet in height, becoming consider-
ably narrower at the top, which has a house built upon
it. It is ascended by steps at the back, and the front
has an inscription, with the name of the prefecture to
which it belongs. The front wall of the yard enclosing
the barracks is covered with whimsical sketches in glaring
colours, such as are common in the decoration of magis-
trates’ offices, as, e.g., soldiers brandishing their weapons,
criminals under torture, &c. At varying distances from
these buildings, either opposite, or on one side, some-
times on a neighbouring hill, are fine pillar-like erec-
tions, the meaning and use of which we could never
learn ; they vary in shape somewhat in different pro-
vinces, and there are always several of them in a line.
They are pedestals about three feet high, surmounted
by a cone of four feet. People connect them with the
signal-towers, and say that wolf’s-dung was burned on
them during the day in olden times. This is very
likely the correct explanation. They used this kind of
material because it is affirmed that the smoke of this
fuel rose higher and straighter than any other. In
addition to these posts, at every three li there is a watch-
house ; the old arrangement, which is still carried
out in some districts, is to have three or four soldiers
stationed in each of these, whose duties are to guard
the peace of their beat, and particularly to look out for
highwaymen. At night travellers can claim the com-
pany of one of these men as escort, changing their
guard at every watch-house.
THE GOD OF LETTERS.—A CLAMOROUS CROWD. 315
Temples to Kwei-hing, the god of literature, are
common ; the god represented is a star, which is be-
lieved to have control over all matters relating to books.
His image is ugly enough, but the little temples in his
honour, which dot the fields here and there, are often
singularly pretty; they are all very much alike, and
generally in good condition.
The city of Hieu-kow was our next stopping-place,
and the scene, on our arrival becoming known, was
strangely exciting. Though it was already dark, and
the shops nearly all closed, the people poured out in
crowds, their curiosity reaching its height upon learning
that we had books for sale ; they swarmed round and
upon the carts, climbed the wheels, thrust lanterns into
our faces, clamorous for books all the while, and asking
endless questions. We had many such experiences
afterwards, but few into which so much of the ludicrous
entered; it lasted nearly two hours, and then, though
with some difficulty, we found shelter in an inn. Even
this was but a change of troubles, however, for a filthier
room than the one we slept in, or a surlier blackguard
than the fellow we were unlucky enough to have for
host, never Surely fell to the lot of wearied travellers.
So much, thought we, for our longed-for Sabbath's rest
Hieu-kow is a well-built little city. Mounting the
central tower we were greatly interested by its appear-
ance; nearly every building has castellated battlements
and a flat roof covered with a sort of concrete. There
appeared to be little or no vacant land within the walls,
316 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-II, SHAN-SI, ETC.
and we readily accepted the native estimate of the
population as being from twenty to twenty-five thousand
souls. Some of the shops struck us as singularly un-
Chinese ; one range of four, especially, each with its
double story, might have passed muster in a western
land. Two-story buildings are common, and many of
them are very lofty, rising forty or fifty feet on either side .
of the narrow thoroughfare. The curiosity of the women
amused us greatly; it quite overcame their fear. Some
old dames wanted to visit us at the inn, but went off
scared, when spoken to ; others, young as well as old,
climbed the roofs of the houses, and one or two even
perched themselves on a building which overlooked our
room, so as to see everything. We being the first
foreigners in foreign costume they had ever seen, one
cannot wonder at this.
Leaving Hieu-kow, we passed through many large
villages and market-towns, some of them remarkable
for the number of large and lofty houses, whose castel-
lated walls looked as though they could almost stand a
siege. The population is evidently well-to-do. Not far
from the city, however, our road became a curious illus-
tration of the uncared-for high-roads of China. Some
Chinaman has said that the condition of the roads is
in an inverse proportion to the quarrelsomeness of the
inhabitants, the mandarins condemning non-suited liti-
gants to serve the public weal by repairing the roads;
if this be true, brotherly love must be a pretty common
virtue in Shan-si. Matters got from bad to worse with
CHI-HIEN.—NATIVE ROMANISTS. 317
us, until at length a boat would have been a more likely
conveyance than a cart. The water rose to the axle-
tree, and it became necessary to retrace our steps some
miles, and then to take the cross-country roads, among
which we soon got lost, so that it was past noon when
We reached Chi-hien.
This is a small city, but compact and thriving, and
presenting abundant indications of wealth. Many of
the shops had two stories, as at Hieu-kow, and the
streets are adorned with numerous pailows. Our stay
here was marked by a furious fight about purchasing
books, which broke out in one of our congregations, and
which, for a time, drew off the attention of the people.
We also had an interesting conversation with some
native Romanists at the inn where they visited us.
t was pleasant to find one of these men, especially,
most clear and full in his answers to questions upon
the great Christian truths. His views of the person
and work of the Saviour were all that could be desired,
and we joyfully recognized in him the faith and spirit
of a true believer; Protestants would have little reason
to complain of Popery if all the converts made by the
Roman church were so trained. Yet this man, alas !
had never seen any portion of the Scriptures.
The population of Chi-hien is about 30,000.
( 318 )
CHAPTER XVII.
JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.—continued.
PART IV.-SHAN-SI.
Eriendly Reception at Ping-yau-hien—A degraded “foo” City—Tombs
in Chang-lang-chow—Group of Monuments—Candlestick Pillar—
Geomancy—Blain of Tai-yuen — Water-courses intersecting the
Roads—Walled Villages—Pailows—Chie-hsiu – Well-dressed and
Refined People—A Magistrate listening to our Preaching—Pass of
Han-hsin-ling—Coal-mining Villages—Fire-damp unknown—Mass
of Iron-stone worshipped—Cave-dwellings—Ascent of the Pass—
Magnificent Scenery—Variegated Strata—Divining-Sticks—Provi-
dential Escape— A Cow-god—Plain of Ping-yang–Traditional
Durial-place of Yaou–Chinese Claims to Antiquity—Ping-yang-
foo—An impatient Congregation—Ruined Temple—Iron Idols—
Colossal Head of Buddha—Paper-making—Great Memorial Tem-
ple—Kau-hien—Wun-shi-hien—A City of Opium-smokers—Salt-
lake — Magnificent Temple —Suspicious Intruders—Temple of
Kwan-ti—A great Dignitary—Pu-chow-foo—Ferry-boats—Toong-
kwan—An over-curious Crowd.
PASSING the night in the village of Chia-ling, we found
ourselves at 9 A.M., on the 1st of October, at Ping-yau-
hien, decidedly the most important city we have seen
since leaving Tai-yuen ; it is large enough for a city of
the first rank, well filled with good buildings, and
evidently densely peopled. We passed through one of
the main streets, and were received in the most friendly
FRIENDLY RECEPTION AT PING-YAU-HIEN. 319
manner by the inhabitants; indeed, this remark must
hold good, for the most part, of all the places visited :
insult was the exception, courtesy the rule. Of course
the curiosity of the people sometimes burst all reason-
able bounds, and needed all our tact and patience;
occasionally, too, the old epithet, “ Foreign devil,”
would be heard, but rarely from any who knew that
we would feel hurt by its use. Now and then it was
good fun to retort the nickname, which nearly always
put our blackhaired friends into a most ludicrous state
of mingled amazement and vexation, ending in a burst
of laughter when they saw that we were good-tempered
enough about it. Or better still was it, to turn unex-
pectedly upon some well-dressed man who had just let
fall the unlucky name and say, “Friend, you should
never abuse people; possibly they may understand what
you Say, and then you could never look them in the
face.” An inferior mandarin at Tai-yuen-foo was ad-
dressed thus, and crimsoning to the roots of his hair
disappeared with marvellous celerity: no one is more
sensitive than a Chinaman when convicted of any want
of politeness. The crush at Ping-yau-hien was cer-
tainly something to be remembered; an immense num-
ber of books were sold, nor was it easy to escape, the
crowd following us for some li after we left the city.
There are few Mohammedans here ; Catholics are
numerous. The total population is said to be about
sixty thousand. The wall of the city is remarkably
good, and peculiar from the number of its towers, over
320 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ET0.
each of which is a small guard-house or barrack. Coal
is again found not far away.
Thirty-five li from Ping-yau-hien, is the city of
Chang-lang-chow, whose glory seems to have, in great
measure, passed away. The natives spoke of it as a
degraded foo: that is, a city which was formerly of the
first rank, but whose importance and relative position
have declined. The walls cover an immense area, but
we could form no estimate of its population. There
is a good deal of business, however, and its periodical
market is of considerable celebrity in the district. The
most striking building is the “drum-tower,” a singu-
larly pretty specimen of its class.
The crowd of graveyards in the neighbourhood of
Chang-lang-chow affords an opportunity to say some-
thing about the funeral monuments of this part of
Shan-si: they are far in advance of what are commonly
seen in Chih-li, in which province there are few tombs
properly so called; a mound of earth surrounded with
trees usually marking the resting-places of the dead.
But here the extraordinary number, variety, and often
elegance of form of these monuments add not a little to
the beauty of the landscape. Probably the greater
natural beauty of the surrounding scenery, the near
neighbourhood of lofty mountains, which could hardly
fail to awaken the aesthetic sensibilities of the people,
and the cheapness of good stone, have all contributed to
bring about this change. It is remarkable, and the fact
* A “drum-tower” is the place where the alarm of fire is given.
MONUMENTS AND INSCRIPTIONS. 321
illustrates the tone of national thought, that all the
monuments we have seen are more or less funereal in
their character. The elegant pailows, of which mention
has so often been made, are nearly all in memory of
virtuous women, and many of the largest and hand-
somest temples have also been raised in honour of the
dead. The celebrated imperial tombs are familiar to
every one. Thus, but on a much humbler scale, it is
the practice all over China for families, in proportion to
their means, to adorn the ancestral burial-place. Most
of them are built of brick, but stone is also freely used,
and some are wholly of that material. In some cases,
the monument is simply an above-ground vault, the
coffin being raised from the ground, and surrounded
by brickwork; in others, a mound of earth covers the
body, while the monument contains the funereal tablet,
on which is an inscription commemorating the name,
age, and virtues of the deceased. Let these serve as
specimens of the inscriptions:–
“A tablet to the (memory of the) benevolent teach-
‘ing of the venerable master Wang-hien-hu. The pupil
Chi-tsun-tsau reverentially erects (it).”
“A tablet to the conjugal and filial virtues of the
wife of Lui-ii, Bachelor of Arts, whose maiden name was
Wang.”
“A tablet (to the memory of) Chen-kai-ti, fifth rank
(i.e. a fifth son), (who in) the 21st year (of the Emperor)
Kia-ching (of the) ‘Ming' (dynasty) (became a) Master
of Arts, (and in the) 25th year (of the same reign) a
WOL. I. 21
322 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
Doctor of Literature, (receiving the title) Kwang-lu-
ta-fu.”
“The grave of Hiu-ngeu-yū (by imperial favour named
‘Weu-liu-lang”). Born on the 15th day of the 9th month
of the 28th year of (the Emperor) Kien-lung. Died on the
2nd day of the 4th month of the 60th year of Kien-lung.”
The last given is the form usual at graves; though,
of course, there is sometimes more than such a
bare record of dates. The others are fair samples of
thousands of complimentary monuments which line the
roads in every direction.
It may interest the reader to know that a small
square opening in the tomb is purposely left for the
more convenient ingress and egress of the spirit. The
willow, the cypress, and the aspen are the trees ordi-
marily selected to plant near graves.
It is not so easy to give an intelligible explanation of
the singular group of monuments given upon the op-
posite page. Like the tombs, they have been selected
from a multitude of similar ones scattered over the
district. They are often found in graveyards; more
frequently, however, in the neighbourhood of villages.
Two will sometimes be seen at the north-western and
south-eastern corners of a village; though why there
rather than at the other corners we could not learn.
They vary in size, quite as much as they do in shape;
some are fifty or sixty feet high, while others are hardly
larger than an ordinary grave. A few have little shrines
either upon them or in some way connected with them.
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THE FUNG-SHUI SUPERSTITION. 323
Nearly all have glazed black porcelain tops, which glitter
in the bright sunlight. Very curious is that candlestick
with its apparently burning candle—but as to its use ?
It is a symbol of “fung-shui,” which is the great
bugbear of a Chinaman, and stands terribly in the way
of progress. It is but the other day that it pulled down
the poles of an experimental telegraph near Shanghai,
and there is good reason to believe that it will prove
a deadly enemy to railways: more than one foreigner
has got himself into hot water by disregarding it. The
name, in plain English, means just “wind and water;”
but this conveys no idea of what is here associated with
the words. Geomancy is extensively practised and
devoutly believed in by the Chinese. In looking out a
site for a grave or building, but especially the former,
a lucky spot must be chosen ; if an unlucky one has
unhappily been selected, or if adverse influences have
been brought to bear upon it, these influences must be
counteracted, or not only the dead but his living posterity
will also suffer. To determine, therefore, the former
point, and so to secure prosperity to all the descendants
of the deceased, elaborate rules are laid down as to the
nature of the soil, position, scenery, relation to neigh-
bouring hills and streams, and much more of a like
kind. This is called “ looking to the wind and water.”
But when the second case has arisen, when adverse
influences have come in, and the “wind and Water" is
bad, then a pagoda or a monument like one of these
may put matters straight. They are called “chen-wu ’’
324 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
or “protectors,” since they “establish the fung-shui” of
the place, and secure it against all kinds of sorcery.
The same Superstition torments them in their homes.
A Chinaman has sickness in his house, or the house
itself becomes shaky, or some other misfortune overtakes
him. Some geomancer tells him that the evil influence
comes from his neighbour's house opposite, or from some
new erection which is supposed to overlook his “fung-
shui,” though perhaps a mile away. Accordingly, a corner
of the parapet of the house looking in that direction is
raised, or a small shrine stuck upon the wall, or some other
equally efficacious plan is adopted to break the spell;
the cost in brick and mortar is not much, and the poor
man sleeps in peace. But to return to our journey.
Beyond Chang-lang-chow the ground became more
and more undulating, and the road passing over many
low hills, outlying sentinels of the range which crosses
the plain upon the south, – we began to anticipate
a speedy renewal of our mountain experiences. The
average breadth of the plain of Tai-yuen we judged to be
from thirty to forty miles; of its length it is not easy to
speak, not having seen it to the north of Tai-yuen, but
from that city to Chie-hsiu, which lies but six or seven
miles from the southern hills, is about seventy English
miles. Throughout, the plain is most fruitful, abound-
ing in fruit-trees and cereals, and dotted over with
cities and market-towns. The mountains on either side
of it, if the statements of the people are to be credited,
abound in coal, iron, and lime, while other minerals
WALLED WILLAGES.—CHIE-HSIU. 325
probably exist; and proper scientific inquiry might
prove the under-strata of the plain itself to be as rich in
mineral as its surface is in vegetable wealth. It is
hardly possible to avoid speculating upon the future of
such a district. It surely cannot long remain closed to
the outer world; those vast stores must ere long be
thrown open, and changes, many and great, alter the
whole character and habits of the people. -
A curious feature of the roads near Chie-hsiu are the
numerous water-courses which intersect them. At the
top of every rising ground we met with one, led down
artificially from some higher level to water the gardens
below. The sides are carefully banked in, and when the
process of irrigation is going on, men stand upon the road
ready to repair at once the breaches made by the wheels
of carts in passing. Now and then this little matter has
been neglected, and then of course the road is flooded.
Walled villages are numerous, as many as twenty
being sometimes in sight at once. They vary
greatly in size ; the wall, built of mud, or at best of
sun-dried brick, being usually from three hundred to
one thousand yards Square. Sometimes two or more
such enclosures seem to have grown together. The
smaller ones are often evidently the property of Some
one individual, whose mansion, surrounded by the cot-
tages of his dependants, is seen over the mud rampart.
Most of these villages have well-built brick gateways,
and some have also a sort of moat.
Chie-hsiu, though not so large as several cities before
326 JOURNEY THROUGH CfIIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
passed through, we found to be a singularly interesting
place. Entering it from the north, there is a long row
of pailows and commemorative tablets by the road-side.
Many of these are exceedingly striking, the carving
being most elaborate ; but only photography could do
them justice, and, as in the case of many such monu-
ments, we did not venture to sketch them. The walls of
the city, too, are peculiar, the port-holes being circular,
as are also the windows in the towers : like all other
Shan-si cities, the wall is only faced with brick upon
the outside. In the street we first entered, there is a
temple so built as to form two sides of a square, under
one of which the road passes; it has a most elaborately
carved roof, and probably is another relic of the great
“Ming.” One li west of the city there is a fine pagoda
of Seven stories. The graveyards are as numerous here
as at Chang-lang-chow.
The city appears to have several interior walls, as
though it had been built piecemeal; we passed through
three or four gates. The streets are narrow, but the
buildings are good, and the shops of a superior order.
There seems to be little commercial activity, and one
would think that its inhabitants have a specially good
opinion of their own importance, for they are more
than ordinarily well-dressed and comfortable-looking.
It is the residence of many wealthy men and families,
members of which either are or have been in official
positions, and this gives the place an air of refinement.
and respectability. Among our hearers on one occasion
HAN-HSIN-LING PASS.–MINING WILLAGES. 327
hére was the resident magistrate, who happened to be
passing with some of his subordinates. The great man
exchanged a few friendly words with us, and then fell
back into the rear of the crowd, but still stood listening
for some time.
Twenty li from Chie-hsiu, the road leaves the plain
and enters a great pass, known as the Han-hsin-ling.
Strictly speaking, however, the mountain pass does not
begin for nearly a hundred li. At first a long narrow
valley has to be traversed, full of interest, whether to
the traveler or the geologist. The entrance to this
valley is stiking, and the effect is greatly heightened by
a lofty pagda which stands upon a hill on the right.
At its foot lows the river Fun, which is here crossed
by a fine bidge. The valley winds greatly, and its
breadth varie from one quarter to three quarters of a
mile. Its plysical characteristics are pretty much the
same as thos of districts already described, only that
the hills are not so bare. Many parts are highly
cultivated, the hills being terraced to their summits.
Minerals, espetally coal, are found in abundance, and
the west bank of the Fun is lined, all along, with
mining villages, Black, dingy clusters of houses they
are, reminding s of many such villages in England;
and the people eem to fancy this gloomy appearance,
purposely coverin the walls and even the roofs of their
buildings with tal or some such material.
Among other ndustrial operations, we came upon a
small chemical wor. Apparently the main manufacture
328 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
was sulphate of iron, as crystals of this product lay in
large baskets, and close by were two or three pits full of
the chemicals in process of fermentation, while around
were heaps of iron-ore. The place was unwalled, and
the little building nearly deserted; so that we could ask
no questions. A few steps further was a coal-pit in full
action; its depth was said to be one hundred and
eighty feet. The coal is of first-rate quality, and, at
the pit-mouth, sells at the rate of threepence for one
hundred and sixty English pounds.
We made inquiries here and elsewhere as to the
existence of fire-damp; but the natives scarcely seemed to
know what we meant. They cannot managedeep work-
ings, because they know of no plan by whidh to get rid
of the water; and probably the shallownessOf their pits
has preserved them from the fearful experences which
have so often brought mourning and deth into the
homes of English colliers. We could nd hear of an
explosion having ever occurred, though thy use no pre-
caution as to lights.
Near the southern end of this valle is the Small
city of Ling-shih-hien. It is situated it a hollow, and
is a poor, broken-down place, with, it is said, a popula-
tion of 2,000 families; an estimate robably far too
high. But we were lucky enough t enter a little
temple outside the north gate, where s preserved the
curiosity from which the city takes its name. Within
the court-yard is a large piece of metl, which at first
we took to be an aérolite, but whichurned out to be
AN INTELLIGENT II)OL. 329
ironstone—apparently almost pure ore. It measures
about five feet in height, by four in width, and is fixed
into a small raised platform, paved with little stones,
opposite to the gate. On a large slab near is recorded
its history: it has occupied its present position nearly
two hundred years, and was found by officers of the
government when engaged in deepening (or changing)
the bed of the River Fun, near the city. In the time of
Kang-hi the name of “Ling-shih,” i.e. the “Spiritual
Stone,” was given to the city, in commemoration of this
discovery, and ever since the poor people have burnt
incense before the stone, and worshipped it as a god.
Fetishism again We looked with wonder upon the
proofs of such deep mental degradation in the country
of Confucius. “Is it not intelligent 2 ” said a well-
dressed bystander. “Listen " And suiting the action
to the word, he struck the stone a light smart tap near
the top, when it rang like a bell.
Onward from Ling-shih-hien, the road rises rapidly.
Collier villages still lined the river banks, and over and
over again coal was seen cropping out of the ground at
our feet. We passed the night of October 2nd at Po-ti
(Hillfoot), a small hamlet at the foot of the great pass,
where we made our first practical acquaintance with the
cave-dwellings, which were to be for some days our only
shelter. From lining the interior of their hill-side dens
with brick, the people have taken to building upon level
ground in the same fashion. Doubtless the saving of
timber has had much to do with this practice. Any one
330 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
anxious to test its advantages cannot do better than rent
some well-used railway-tunnel, bricking up one end,
and putting a window and door at the other; the Soot
which hangs from the roof should be left there, and not
a scrap of wood introduced, except for the door and
window; a brick bed-place should be the permanent, and
a small table and two chairs the moveable, furniture of
the apartment. If a tunnel could be found measuring
about 20 feet by 10, and fitted thus, the reader might
turn troglodyte at once ; but we cannot recommend
these dwellings to people of fastidious tastes, as they are
apt to have a damp, earthy Smell, and are not easily
ventilated. The concentrated essence of scents with
which our rooms were often redolent, would have proved
too much for the olfactory nerves of most Europeans.
Just opposite to our inn was a hill, burrowed on every
side, and very curious it looked. The caves—real ones,
in rows of 25 to 40 or so—rose tier above tier, in stories
of five or six, each likely enough the residence of a
family. The front being faced neatly with brick, gave a
substantial look to the pile.
We were somewhat astounded by the steepness of
the ascent which lay before us on leaving Po-ti. The
difficulties of the Han-hsin-ling are famous in Shan-si,
and we had been well warned ; still they proved greater
than we expected: it took us four hours to travel three
miles. The hills are not rocky, but are terribly hard
to mount, the loose soil and stones crumbling under the
feet. Then, halfway up, our mules became restive, and
ū
SCENERY.—JEN-I-CHUNG.—DIVINING-STICKS. 331.
much time was lost in seeking other animals. Once
up, we found ourselves upon a rolling table-land, broken
into countless ravines. The scenery around was mag-
nificent ; even the natives broke out occasionally into
expressions of delight. Coal cropped out everywhere;
the hills seeming to be half made of it. Descending
gradually about noon, we reached the small market-town
of Jen-i-chung, celebrated as an iron depôt. It is built
partly upon, and partly at, the base of an irregular hill
in the centre of a valley, and is very picturesque from
a little distance. A small river passes through the
valley, flowing close by the town, and dividing the
two hill ranges; we forded it without difficulty. The
ascent of the next range—the Chiau-ya-ling—began at
once. The hill-sides here presented a most curious
appearance; in many the strata were clearly marked
from base to summit, and the many coloured clays
presented all the hues of the rainbow; sometimes an
entire valley would present such coloured strata. It
would, of course, require time and scientific skill to tell
the value of such indications, but the most careless
observer could not pass them without remark.
Stopping for a moment to take breath upon one of
the highest points, curiosity led one of us to look into a
small hill-temple. It was unoccupied ; but just before
the miserable god stood a bamboo, containing the
divining-sticks used in consulting the Oracle, and one of
our carters got hold of the bamboo, shook it, and then
carefully took out three of the splints. “Took here,”
382 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
said he “the first is ‘hia-hia,” very bad ; the second is
‘shang-shang,’ very good; and the third is “tsung-
tsung,’ neither bad nor good: this means that the road
just before us will be very dangerous; then we shall
have a very good piece, and the finish will be neither
good nor bad.” It was no use battling with his supersti-
tion : his predictions, however, proved laughably wrong.
We had a providential escape during the afternoon.
One of the shaft mules became restive at a place where
the road was barely wide enough for the cart to pass;
on one side rose a pretty steep hill, on the other
yawned an ugly chasm, which made one's head swim to
look down. Halfway down there was a projecting ledge,
which might have broken a fall; but even this was
many feet below, and would hardly have saved us, and it
was towards this that the brute began to back the cart.
We were off the shafts in an instant, and each seized a
wheel; but it was all we could do to arrest it. The
carter tried in vain to get the beast to pull; it continued
to back, as if it knew what it was doing and was
possessed of the spirit of a fiend, until the right wheel
was within a few inches of the edge. Happily, some
men at work 400 or 500 yards away heard our call
for help, and came running up. The danger had been
very imminent, for had the wheel once slipped over the
edge, nothing could have saved us ; cart, mules, and
all would have gone. -
Our next stoppage was at Hoa-chow, a small, poor
city; the population cannot be more than 6,000 or
HOA-CHOW,-COW-GOD.—CHI-TAU-KOW PASS. 333
8,000. The north gate, at which we entered, is near
the South-west angle of the wall, so that the great bulk
of the population occupies the east of the main-street.
The wall is remarkable for its narrow top, scarcely four
feet in width. There is a pretty green-tiled “ku-leu,”*
and a small but good bridge over a mountain stream,
now dry, outside the south gate. At one end of the
bridge is a bronze cow, like the one on the north of
Peking, in a recumbent position, very well proportioned.
This is a figure often seen in such situations, illustrative
of the popular superstition; the idea being that, in case
of excessive rain, the cow will preserve the district from
floods, by drinking up the waters of the river.
South of Hoa-chow, the road immediately enters
another defile. The valley in which it lies has been at
one period surrounded by mud ramparts, and traces of
old fortifications hereabouts indicate the importance
formerly attached to these passes. The entrance to
the defile has a regular gateway, and a part of the
pass is probably altogether artificial, a road cut through
the hill. It is about 80 feet wide at the mouth, rapidly
narrowing to less than 30 feet, and is known as the
“Chi-tau-kow.” Beyond this, the pass opens into
valleys, many of them carefully cultivated. Wet-ground
rice was seen growing here, the first time we had
noticed it in Shan-si; the low ground in the neigh-
bourhood of the river is well suited to its cultivation.
Seven miles from Hoa-chow, we entered a larger valley,
* A drum-tower, used for giving alarms of fire.
334 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
whose sandy soil seems to indicate its frequent flooding
by the river; and south of this again, the road winds
round projecting ledges of rock about halfway up the
hill-sides, the rocks rising some hundred feet above us
on one side, and the stream brawling noisily as far below
us on the other. This pass may be said to end near Chau-
hien, for it is here that the road enters the Ping-yang
plain, though the country for many miles is still hilly.
Chau-hien, or, to speak more accurately, Chau-
chung-hien, is even a poorer city than Hoa-chow. It is
noted, however, as being a great cotton emporium, and
we saw many large bales lying in the shops. Hun-
tung-hien, our stopping-place for the night, was hardly
more interesting. Both these cities are small, the walls
being little more than three miles in circuit. Hun-tung
is famed for its rice. The population is larger than
would at first appear, the houses being closely packed ;
but little can be said either for the comfort of its inns or
the civility of the people ; and we were glad to get away.
There is another large bridge on the south, with
some pretensions to beauty, though sadly ruined;
originally there must have been some forty arches, but
only fifteen remain, and after crossing these we had to
descend into the stony bed of the river, a tributary of
the Fun. There is little to note in the Ping-yang
plain ; it is for the most part level and Sandy, at least
on this side ; is not so luxuriant as the plain of Tai-
yuen, and has far fewer architectural monuments. Its
chief interest centres in the traditional stories which
PLAIN OF PING-YANG.-CHINESE TRADITIONS. 335
make it the scene of old Yaou's greatness; and probably
even the most sceptical travellers could scarcely avoid
sympathizing to some extent with the unbounded faith
of the inhabitants on this point. They, at any rate,
believe in Yaou, as their fathers have done for many a
generation, and are untroubled by any doubt that, more
than 4,000 years gone by, he had his capital at Ping-
yang-foo; while somewhere in the neighbouring hills,
within a cave whose mephitic vapours forbid all human
entrance, his bones lie peacefully enclosed in a coffin of
gold lined with silver, and slung by massive chains in
waters of unknown depths.
One is bewildered by the claims to extreme anti-
quity preferred by this remarkable people. It is much
to say that their authentic records carry us back to the
days of Greek and Roman domination; that their great
sage, Confucius, preceded Herodotus, the father of
Western history, by a full hundred years; and that
they have long lists of monarchs who lived and reigned
before the days of David and Solomon. But the great
Yaou's name carries us to within a hundred and fifty
years of the era of the Noachian deluge; and, as if this
were not enough, one of their great Writers, Choo-ſoo-
tsz, coolly begins his history at a point 1,000 years
before the death of Methuselah, or some 600 years after
the date assigned to the Creation. What they regard
as the fabulous period is prior to the date last men-
tioned. No wonder they say, “It is impossible to give
entire credit to the traditions of these remote ages.” It
336 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
is marvellous with what tenacity the people cling to
such traditions, and how, rightly or wrongly, localities
are fixed, and associated with them. Where were
London and Paris, or even Rome itself, four thousand
years ago? Undoubtedly the barbarian kingdoms of
Europe must bow their heads before the hoary glories of
these children of Han.
Within recent years.” Ping-yang-foo has been pillaged
by the insurgents, who have destroyed most of the
memorials of its former prosperity. Fire has done its
work but too well among the buildings, and the sword
has more than decimated the population. The approach
to the city is not bad ; rows of fine old acacias giving a
venerable appearance to the road; but, on passing
within the walls, the desolation visible in the great
north street is very mournful: heaps of ruins meet
the eye on every side. The drum-tower, a fine relic
of the “Ming,” having been built by Hung-wu, the
first Emperor of that dynasty (A.D. 1366–1397) still
remains. Turning east at this tower, we spent some
time in finding a suitable place for refreshment, having,
like most of our countrymen, a somewhat strong repug-
nance to Chinese pork. A fellow behind convulsed us
with laughter by his play upon words. “Who are
these men 2° asked one of the crowd, and he smartly
replied, “Yang kweitsz tsau yang joh chi,” “Foreign
devils looking for mutton to eat.” The remark did not
* Fifteen years ago, in the third year of the last Emperor, Hien-
fung.
PREACHING AT PING-YANG-FOO. 337
seem to amuse the crowd, but to us it was irresistibly
ludicrous. At last the sheep was found, and while it
was killed and cooked, we sold our books. There was
a scorching sun, and the pressure of the people was, for
a time, tremendous : how they crushed and struggled,
and anathematized each other, and shouted to us!
In the evening an interesting group gathered round
the door of our inn. We had purposely deferred preach-
ing until the Sabbath, but these good people's curiosity
could not wait till morning; it was in vain to plead
weariness. At last Mr. Lees went with them to the
gate, and there, seated under a large acacia, with the
people standing in a circle round him, two hours passed
in the most delightful way. . It was evident that the
truths just heard for the first time had awakened some-
thing more than stupid wonder. Several of the men
were scholars, and many of the questions asked indi-
cated an intelligent thoughtfulness not often met with
under such circumstances. “What ails the Classics 2’’
said they. “Why is not Confucius enough for us?”
“Who is this Jesus 2’” The following day (Sunday,
Oct. 6), was wholly occupied with preaching, and every-
where the people showed the same spirit as on the
previous evening, making us wish that it were possible
to linger here awhile.
The streets of Ping-yang-foo were once much wider
than at present ; two lines of shops have been built
along the middle of the east street, as in the great
thoroughfares of Peking, only that these are more per-
WOL. I. 22
388 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
manent erections. The trade in this street is very con-
siderable, and gives one a fair idea of what the city
must have been before the visit of the rebel army; when
it is said that other parts of it were just as thickly
peopled as this. Among our preaching places was the
portico of the temple to Kwan-kung, the god of war:
the long-haired iconoclasts had made short work of it
here. This gateway had been rebuilt since, as had also
one of the large halls, but the rest were but heaps of
ruins. Far back in the huge courts, which are at least
five hundred yards in length, was a platform in front of
where the god had once stood, and on it were two
figures, unlike the ordinary idols, both in form and dress,
and of which the sketch on the opposite page is a very
imperfect representation. The face is like those upon
Assyrian sculptures; on the head is a sort of mitre, with
a falling piece which covers the back of the neck. The
outer garment is an ephod, having round its upper edge
a deep scalloped border, from the middle of which hangs
a small breastplate; while it is confined at the waist by
a girdle with long tasselled ends; the inner garment
reaches to the feet, which are sandalled. The figures
stood upon tripods of iron, from four to five feet high,
and much the worse for wear.
On reaching the east gate we were surprised to find
beyond the walls a large and busy suburb, containing
probably more people than the city itself; it is entirely
separate, having walls of its own, and a deep moat
between them and the gate. There is, or rather was,
SUBURBS.—PLAN OF THE CITY. 339
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another suburb upon the south, but there, not a single
house has been left standing. One wonders how the
rebels got possession of the place ; in the absence of
cannon, it ought to have defied them, and could only
have been lost by cowardice, or gross mismanagement on
the part of its defenders. The general plan of the city
is so arranged as to bear some resemblance to the figure
of a tortoise, which should have done much to preserve



340 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
it from such ill-fortune. More to the purpose, however,
is the strength of its walls and gates, the latter being
triple and so arranged as to enable a garrison to
surround any assailants who should pass the first
barriers. The present population of Ping-yang-foo is
said to be about fifteen thousand.
Besides the Ku-leu, there is now only one other
building of any antiquity within the walls. The Ku-leu
is a handsome brick pagoda of five stories, ornamented
with panels of green porcelain, and said to date from the
days of Tang (A.D. 631-897), but has probably been
rebuilt. Within is one of the most extraordinary idols
in the empire. On opening the door, we could not at
first make out the meaning of the huge figure before us.
Emerging from the ground, as though the body were
buried beneath, was an enormous head with the placid
countenance and curly locks of Buddha. Its height is
more than twenty feet, and its circumference at least
fifty. The locks are a bright green, the lips are a
bright carmine, and the colour of the flesh is a reddish
gold. Some idea of its size may be formed from the
fact, that a full-grown man must stand on tiptoe to
touch the nose. This singular god is made of un-
wrought iron, cast, and then covered with a kind of
plaster, and gilded.
There is a considerable amount of coarse paper
manufactured in the neighbourhood of Ping-yang-foo;
much of it is sent to Peking. The process is very
simple; hemp-ropes are the material principally used :
PAPER-MAKING.-MEMORIAL TEMPLE. 341
these are first bruised with the feet, and then ground
to a pulp in a very primitive mill. In an adjoining
building are the tubs of pulp, each some five feet
Square. The workman has two small wire screens,
made very pliable, of the size of the sheet required,
but one much more open than the other. These being
placed together, are dipped into the mash, and when lifted
out, they have a layer of pulp between them ; the
screens acting as a sieve, the water is easily drained off.
Then the upper screen being raised, the pulp adheres,
and is carefully placed on the top of a pile ; the
paper is then plastered on the outer wall of the house
to bleach in the sun, and finally is pressed. Some of
the villages had a very odd look, with their walls all
covered with this paper.
The district is full of memorials of the old kings.
The grave of Yaou has been already alluded to : it is
said to be about seventy li to the east of the city, and
if the description of the temple and mound given in the
local topography may be trusted, it should be worth a
visit. About five li south of Ping-yang-foo is the spot
pointed out as the site of the olden capital, and a few
li further still, there is a great memorial temple to all
the three great worthies, Yaou, Shun, and Yu. Native
books say that this temple was first built by the
Emperor Yuen-kang, about A.D. 294, at a place called
Chin-sui, considerably to the south-west of Ping-yang-
foo, and was removed here by Hien-chung, of the Tang
dynasty, in the seventh century. We passed this temple
342 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
On Our way southwards, and spent some time examining
the buildings which still remain.
The temple consists of four great courts enclosed by
a high mud wall, and forming a large parallelogram.
The court in the east is sacred to the Great Yu, B.C.
2204-21.96, who is famous as the man who averted the
evils of the Yellow River, regulated the courses of the
streams, and cleared the country of its superfluous
waters. Next to this is the chief court, sacred to old
Yaou, B.C. 2356-2254, who reigned 101 years. West of
that is the temple of Shun, B.C. 2254-2204; and at the
extreme west the palace proper. The court and temple
of Yu is in utter ruins, the image completely defaced,
and the yard sown with wheat. The temple of Yaou is
in a little better condition; the walls are standing, but
it is without a roof, and rapidly decaying. The great
image, which is in a sitting position, is quite defaced,
and the two attendants mere naked shapeless pieces of
yellow clay. The pavilion in the centre is in good
repair; on the eastern side of it stands a sheep made
of stone, called the “Siau-yang-tang,” and on the
western side is the representation of some kind of vege-
table, whose nature we could not divine, made of iron.
The temple of Shun is also in ruins, the building
a mere heap of stones, the images masses of clay, and
everything around in melancholy consistency; the
great palace presents the same tumbled-down aspect.
The chief room at the end is famous as the place where
the great Emperor Kang-hi slept on his visit; the walls
RUINED TEMPLES. - - - 343
are covered with characters, in couplets, written by his
own hand, on slabs built into the wall, and have a
striking appearance. . .
The spot on which these buildings stand is famous
as the site of the old palace of the three first Emperors;
which was erected, according to its present plan, about
A.D. 1460, and, I believe, superseded previous com-
memorative buildings. The original plan evidently has
been good, and the buildings in their pristine condition
must have been imposing; the ruins, the rows of fine
cypress, and divisions of the courts, all indicate as much.
The place was destroyed by the “Tai-ping” rebels about
fifteen years ago. Two li south of the temple is a
ruined village, said to have been formerly Yaou's family
residence. On the corner of the ruined wall was another
of those curious “chen-wu,” of which we have so often
spoken. The hills, rising on each side, arrested our
attention, as being the only things remaining which we
can imagine Yaou's eyes once rested on. And now
having carefully surveyed the ruins, and feasted the
imagination on thoughts of these far distant times, we
set off on our further journey.
Leaving Ping-yang-foo, our way lay over a level plain,
not unlike the Tai-yuen plain. We dined at a village
60 li south, called Sze-tswun, where we found coals from
the eastern hills and plenty of cotton, and in which we
preached and sold books to large numbers. In the
afternoon we passed through defiles, with sand-banks
rising perpendicularly on each side, many feet in height.
344 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
Crossing a low range of hills, we found fine slates for
sale, of different colours, exposed by pedlars on the road-
side, and we purchased samples of each description.
Arriving about dusk at a large walled town, called Kau-
hien, we stayed there for the night.
This place is famous as a great emporium of cottom,
and we found it in great quantities stored in large ware-
houses. Leaving Kau-hien, the road beyond is not
interesting. Many mud-walled villages were in view,
fine poplars in profusion, and cotton everywhere. One
thing drew our attention, and that was the number of
crows with red bills, such as are sometimes seen on the
west coast of Scotland. We breakfasted at a busy
market-town called Ho-ma. Fortunately it was a
“fair; ” and we had thus the opportunity of meeting
great numbers of the country-people, who were very
civil. The road during the afternoon was much more
interesting than that of yesterday. We saw some
strange tombs, several singular “chen-wu,” and also
more crows with red bills.
Approaching Wun-shi-hien, we passed many fine
pailows and elaborate tablets, indicating the presence
not only of wealth, but of eminence and taste. Many
of the mountains, which were chiefly spurs of the
eastern range, were terraced up to the very top, and
crowned with trees on their summits. On this day we
had the first taste of the great salt district, having met
strings of carts laden with that commodity from Loong-
tswun Lake. Next morning we entered Wun-shi-hien
AN OPIUM-SMOKING MOB. 345
just as the people were rising; they gradually crowded
around us as we leisurely made our way through,
preaching and selling our books. At Wun-shi-hien we
left the main road and diverged to the south-east, in
order to visit the great city at the salt-lake. The road
was at first level, then crossed a low range, and after a
journey of 40 li we reached Fei-tswun. Another 30 li
brought us to T'au-tswun. Here there was no good
inn, and we had to cook our own food. We passed a
pretty family burial-place.
Just as it was getting dark we reached Ngan-i-hien,
a poor ruinous city. We were at once surrounded by an
immense crowd, and began our work. Almost every
man, woman, and child appeared to be opium-smokers,
and as the inevitable result there was no civility, no
politeness; nothing but rowdyism and bad language.
We persevered till it got dark, and then hastened to our
inn, which was quite in keeping with the place. The
crowds followed us there, demanding admittance to our
rooms. We appealed to the innkeeper, but in vain; at
last we took the matter into our own hands, shutting
the doors and barricading them. We asked for food,
but there was none to be had ; we were told that the
innkeeper did not provide food, but had it bought in the
street: we could not even get hot water. One of us
went out to buy food, and, to our amazement, found
that, contrary to Chinese custom, the main-street was lit
up with numerous lamps, and buying and selling going
on just as at mid-day in other places. After a great
346 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
deal of annoyance and trouble we succeeded in obtaining
boiling water and a few pieces of bread, and made our
supper as we best could. But there was no rest for us :
the crowd filled the yard, roaring and shouting to see
us, and trying every now and then to break open the door.
We kept them at bay, however, and gradually, as the
night wore on, they disappeared; though some of the
baser sort continued till very late. As may be supposed,
we did not tarry in the morning, but were up and away
before any of the human beasts had recovered from their
opium. We suspect that opium is grown largely in the
neighbourhood, though every one denied any know-
ledge of it.
As the sun rose, on the 10th, we found ourselves on
a barren plain, covered with a white sprinkling of Salt,
and not far from Loong-tswun, or Yuen-chung—“the
city of the springs”—as it is also called. This is a very
important city. It is three miles in circuit, has good
walls, is full of large warehouses, and densely peopled.
The population was given as 80,000 or 100,000. The
chief article of commerce is salt, procured from the
lake which lies in the neighbourhood. We found the
people here extremely civil, and spent the greater part
of the day busily engaged in our work. Towards
afternoon we went to view the lake, which lies adjoining
on the south of the city. Here we found a magnificent
temple, into which we went, and had a view of the
country round. The temple was one of the finest of the
kind I have seen. It stands on an elevated position, and
MAGNIFICENT TEMPLE.-GREAT SALT-LAKE. 347
overlooks the whole valley. It has five great courts—
the main one facing the south lake. A grand, wide
staircase rises from the lake to the main court, on
which is a fine tower for viewing the country. The
chief temple stands in the centre, and consists of three
divisions. The central one contains two great idols,
with these inscriptions:—“The resting-place of the
Spirit of the Eastern portion; ” “The resting-place of
the Spirit of the Western portion.” In the eastern
division, or sub-temple, is a small image, in front of
which is written—“The resting-place of the Spirit of
the Chain of Mountains; ” and in the western sub-
temple is another image, where is written – “The
resting-place of the Spirit of the Vapour in the
Cave.”
Behind the chief temple, and at the sides, are in-
ferior buildings, all full of idols of various kinds. Before
the idols were the usual incense-pots, candles, &c., and
at their sides the usual grim, ugly, particoloured
attendants: the furniture and attendants of the chief
idols were very huge. The whole of the buildings
were in excellent repair, painted in bright colours
outside and inside, and the courts were well paved,
clean, and pleasant. From one of the highest towers
we had a grand view of the whole district, and a most
peculiar prospect it was. At our feet, stretching east
and west, lay the famous lake ; and yet it was not a
lake, but a long, broad basin, divided into innumerable
sections, some full of water, some presenting a glisten-
348 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
ing white surface; while, on others, were heaps of
salt—the whole more like a huge morass covered with
irregular patches of snow and ice-floes than anything
else. Companies of men were busy here and there
laving the water, which had a greenish hue, out of the
pools or fountains into which it rose, and pouring it
into tiny water-courses; thus spreading it over the
surface of the prepared beds, where the sun evaporated
the liquid, and left the residuum of salt. Others were
Sweeping the dry salt into heaps; and, again, other
companies were engaged in packing it into carts for
transportation. The lake itself was like a great basin,
scooped out of the plain, for it was below the flat
country around. The salt-springs were all on the north
side ; and, on the south, coming down to the very edge
of the lake, were high mountains, covered with fine
trees. The whole scene was interesting: the semi-lake,
Semi-plain, the white glistening surface contrasting
with the green foliage of the hills, the great busy city
amid the barren saline fields, and the well-built, elabo-
rately finished and picturesque temple overlooking all,
presented a scene for a painter.
This lake is about 18 miles long by 3 broad. It
belongs to the Emperor, and is farmed out to merchants
by the mandarins. The revenue derived from it is very
great. To prevent illegal transactions, the whole lake
is enclosed by a wall, in some places of considerable
height, and has at least two gates, and a good road
within, all around. There are other salt-lakes in the
SALT-SPRINGS OF YUEN-CHUNG. 349
neighbourhood, but this is the chief. It has been long
famous, and is often referred to in native books. As
far back as the Han dynasty (B.C. 200—A.D. 150), the
produce of the several lakes was worth 300,000 pieces
of silk annually. -
No fewer than three hundred firms are engaged in
the production of the salt. They employ numerous
workmen, who are paid at the rate of 40 cash, or about
2d. per day, in addition to their food. The whole con-
cern is governed by a magistrate of the rank of a Tau-tai,
one of the same class which superintends trade gene-
rally and transacts with our consuls. A cart-load of Salt,
about 1,200 catties, cost at the lake, as we were told, one
tael and five mace. Curiously enough, the people in the
city and neighbourhood use this water for domestic
purposes, apparently without injury. They do not seem
to have any other. There were multitudes of carts
engaged in traversing the city with water-casks sup-
plying the inhabitants.
We went down to the springs, found them very
numerous, and tasted the water, which had very
little perceptible traces of salt, and merely a brackish
taste. The overseers appeared a little jealous of us,
but were polite. Returning homewards, the gate-keeper
tried to prevent our entrance into the city again, but
yielded on seeing our passport. The Salt produced
here supplies the greater part of the provinces of Shan-
si, Shen-si, and Honan ; and we could not fail to mark
the hand of a gracious Superintending Providence evinced
350 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
in the existence of such a lake in this quarter. Far
removed from the sea, exposed to all the uncertainty of
land transit, without this indispensable article of food
in the neighbourhood, the natives might often have
been exposed to great privations ; but here, as in
many of the inland states of America, and in the very
midst of Canada, as well as in many parts of Central
Asia, He, who had man’s creation in view, appointed
these saline springs, as well as coal, iron, and other
minerals, for the use of his creatures.
We started for Kiai-chow, when our road lay along
the north bank of the lake for several miles. Leaving
the lake, we entered upon a fine country, with horses and
cattle grazing in the fields, more like English scenery
than anything yet seen. As the sun set we arrived at
Kiai-chow, which we found full of soldiers. It is now
a very dull city, with avenues of high trees lining the
streets. We passed one or two temples with figures
cut in stone before the gates; one of these struck us
as rather amusing, viz. a man, grinning from ear to ear,
riding on a lion, with a head-dress having the resemblance
of a Kilmarnock night-cap. The inns being full, we
had to go to a wretched place outside the west gate for
accommodation. During the night we were aroused
by several men demanding admittance, saying they
were from the mandarin, and wished to see our pass-
ports. We told them to come at daylight ; they re-
fused, and knocked violently at the door. We barricaded
the place, warned them to go, and declared that no one
TEMPLE OF THE GOD OF WAR. 351
should be admitted till morning; finding us resolute,
and, I suppose, imagining we had arms, they slowly
left us. Undoubtedly they were blackguards, probably
soldiers, who intended to rob us. Questioning the
landlord in the morning, he put his finger upon his
lips, indicating that he dared not inform us. It would
have been well if we had taken the fellow before the
magistrates, for he had no right to admit them ; but
time being precious we set off as early as a little rain
would permit. -
As we proceeded the scenery was grand; we had
lofty granite rocks on our left hand, in many fan-
tastic and imposing forms; fine fields stretching away
on the right, while our road lay through extremely
pleasant avenues of persimon-trees loaded with their
rich red fruit. Leaving Kiai-chow, we passed the great
temple of Kwan-ti, also called Kwan-kung, the god of
war, for this was his birthplace and home. This man
was born in the later Han dynasty, about A.D. 140. He
was a man of great ability and courage, and conducted
several wars successfully. Deified when he died, he has
been gradually raised in rank in the other world, by
several Emperors, until he now stands on the very pin-
nacle of fame, and is constantly and religiously wor-
shipped. He is considered the patron deity of Shan-si,
as Confucius is of Shan-tung, and we saw many temples
in his honour, with the inscription, “To the one man
of Shan-si, the god of war.” -
We had not time to examine the temple, but judging
352 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIEI-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
from the outside, it must be both spacious, and highly
ornamental. A few miles beyond this temple we passed
another salt-lake, about three miles long by one and a half
broad, and heard of a third. The water does not yield so
much salt as that at Yuen-chung, and is not worked; no
fish can live in it, and it has no outlet. Salt-springs
appear common also in this quarter, and some, formerly
famous, are now dried up. Chinese books tell us of
one at Ngan-i-hien, the opium city, formerly referred
to, which, in the Han dynasty, was 50 li long and 6
broad. -
The wheel of one of our carts having broken down,
we were detained for three hours. While engaged in
patching it up, the Supreme Judge of a neighbouring
province passed us on his way to Peking. It was an
amusing exhibition of official pomp. The inns were
prepared for him all along the road. The first inti-
mation of his excellency's approach was by horsemen
at short intervals galloping along in the wildest
manner, announcing how far the great man had
advanced; next came crowds of men bearing curtains,
bedding, cushions, and furniture to fit up the rooms;
after them followed others carrying his clothes and
baggage ; then horsemen at yet shorter intervals, in a
yet wilder mood; lastly, thirty or forty foot soldiers
came marching on in double-quick time with folded
banners, and guns. After another interval, a second
company appeared, of whom no two seemed armed
alike: we noticed spears; weapons which looked like
PROCESSION OF A SUPREME JUDGE. 353
reaping-hooks fastened on a boat-pole; knives with
handles a yard long, and horrible-looking tridents.
This division was followed by a number of runners,
each boasting two feathers in his red sugar-loaf cap ;
after them a mounted lictor, with a knapsack full of
light bamboos tied on his back; then another crier—
or rather roarer, or bellower. There was the usual
crowd of boys in crimson vests and conical caps,
carrying various weapons. After an interval came
the Supreme Judge himself, in a handsome chair, with
many bearers, and a posse of mandarins on horseback,
all in full official costume. When they saw us they
stopped, and some conversation ensued. The chief
magistrate of the town we had just left came to us; we
showed him our passports, and met with the greatest
courtesy. We presented them with copies of the Bible,
New Testament, and a variety of other books, all of
which were politely accepted, and in a few minutes they
departed. A military escort brought up the rear, con-
sisting of about sixty men, well dressed and armed,
and apparently under good discipline. They marched
in two files on either side of the road, every second
man with a flag in his left hand; country-people and
stragglers followed. We looked at the great man
very carefully, as he sat lounging voluptuously in his
chair, with his hands spread out on the front bar,
and his face resting upon them; and on his part he took
a good look at us. He appeared a very ordinary China-
man, without any indications of genius, education, or
WOL. I. 23
354 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
power; a mere dull, heavy, sensual, ignorant, self-
conceited young man.
The cart being mended, we proceeded on our way:
the country became still more charming: miles of im-
mense orchards, in which persimon-trees prevailed, to-
gether with walnut, cypress, poplars, willows, &c. The
scene had often the appearance of one huge park
carefully laid out, and it being autumn, the tints of the
foliage exhibited every hue, beautifully diversified by
the intermixture of the red persimons. Here we saw
a very peculiar kind of cypress, which had no branches,
but a crooked feathered trunk, with a great bunch of
twigs at the top. These trees had a strange appearance
among the others, and seemed like human giants in
solemn guard over the forest.
On October 12 our way was still through orchards.
Peach and apricot trees were now more common, but
we saw no apples for several days. Cotton we met
with in considerable quantities, and found the capsi-
cums in profusion. What, however, struck us most
was a waggon-load of oats which passed us, and
we had hardly recovered our surprise when we came
upon patches of clover, and found it in common use
for feeding horses. Nor was this all; we found the
mistletoe and a species of tallow-tree in this region,
with dock-weed, dandelion, thistles and pinks, in all
directions.
As we approached Pu-chow-foo, the country became
less picturesque, Sand hills prevailing. Crossing a
$
PU-CHOW-FOO.-PERSIMON-ORCHARDS. 355
ridge which lay north and south, we came in sight of
a fine pagoda thirteen stories high, and on passing it
regained the great road, which we had left on going
to the salt district. -
Pu-chow-foo, once a fine city, is now greatly dilapi-
dated. The chief business is done in the eastern
suburbs, which are very extensive, and walled all round
with poor walls. The walls of the city proper, said to
be nine li round, are in better repair, but inside dulness
predominates. Our advent called forth no small stir,
such as the natives had not seen for an age. A great
portion of the ground within the walls was under culti-
vation. We left by the south gate, and found salt
marshes on the south and west of the city. As we
went onward, at the foot of the mountain on the west,
we found Salt on the sides of the road, evidently left
by evaporation.
Meeting with a detachment of soldiers from Sz-chwen,
we entered into conversation with them, and found they
had been the escort of the “judge ’’ we had met on the
previous day. We had the pleasure of disposing of
a good many books among them. -
IEmerging from the barren Saline marsh which
environs the city on the west and south, our road
lay through orchards, the trees of which were chiefly
persimons. Inquiring how the natives used so much
of this fruit, we discovered that great quantities were
used in the manufacture of a strong spirit, which in
taste and colour very much resembled Scotch whisky.
356 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
Thirty li south of Pu-chow-foo, the mountains south
of the Yellow River become visible, and a noble peak,
like a sleeping elephant, riveted our attention. The
south range, whose course we had so long been following,
trends to the east and finishes in a sandy ridge. Pro-
ceeding due south over a fine plateau, from an elevation
we got a glimpse of the Yellow River wending its way
in the distance. Returning to the road we made our
way across the plateau. After a few miles we began
to descend a narrow defile : down, down we went, the
way being often very steep and the sand-banks on each
side very high, the carters meanwhile shouting lest there
should be any others in their way. Passing several
carts and mules, which had shunted in a wider part to
allow us to pass, we, in about half an hour's time, came
out in full view of the river.
Here we found a fortification and garrison of 500
men. The soldiers gathered around us, and were not
very polite; we having called for the ferry-boats, they
asked to see our passports, and when we presented them
took them to the mandarins; but, after some detention,
we were permitted to proceed. The river was broad
and rapid, but not so broad as we anticipated—some-
where about 450 yards. The ferry-boats were huge,
clumsy, and flat-bottomed, but well adapted for their
work. They were forty feet long by twenty wide, with
curious but strong bows. . The oars were gigantic,
some forty feet long by a foot in diameter, at the part
which rested on the boat. Seeing that it took three
HUGE FERRY-BOATS. 357
men to lift them, we wondered how they could be
worked ; but when once placed in position they were
well poised, and three men at each oar managed the
boat with comparative ease. The current was very
strong, and carried us down the stream about a mile.
Reaching the other shore, the men descended and hauled
the boat, aided by the eddy, to the opposite landing-
place. We sounded the river as we crossed, but found
no bottom ; and as there are rocks on either side in this
quarter, it must be very deep. We made all the inquiries
we could in reference to the possibility of its navigation,
both at this place and elsewhere. Statements were
rather conflicting ; the truth seems to be that boats
can go from this point to the neighbourhood of Kai-fung-
foo, but near that city there are various obstacles which
impede navigation. Coal-barges come to this place
from the north as far as 200 and 250 miles, at the rate
of 170 li a day on their downward voyage, making
only about 60 li against the current. But, on the
whole, as the Chinese do not consider it worth while to
use the stream for purposes of transit, it is not likely
to be of much advantage to foreigners without an
expenditure of labour and money which would hardly be
commensurate with the probable gain.
Safely landed, we waited some time for the large
book-cart, which was on a different ferry-boat; but
there being no appearance of it, we proceeded to the
city. Our way lay up a very steep ascent, well cause-
wayed. On reaching the gate of the city, called Toong-
358 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
kwan, we found it shut. The guards refused to open
it without receiving instructions from the commander
of the place ; , whereupon our passports were passed
through beneath the gates, and we had to wait the
answer, which was long in coming. Cold and hungry,
we tarried outside : at last we tried to get an inn,
but could find none. Some of the officials on the
banks of the river took pity on us and gave us tea,
and at last the order for our admission arrived; the
gates were immediately opened, and an officer was
appointed to conduct us to the inn. Hardly were
we settled when a subordinate mandarin, who was
the Inspector of Inns, and to whom every stranger
had to certify himself, called and questioned us as to
our number and errand, &c. Satisfied with our answer,
he departed. Tired and wearied, we took a slight meal,
and immediately lay down to sleep, looking forward with
pleasure to the rest of the coming Sabbath.
But we were counting without our host. The
news had spread that two foreigners were in the city,
and even before the sun was above the horizon there
were people at the inn to see us. Gaining admittance
to the inner court, they thumped at our door to wake
us up; for some time we paid no attention, but the
crowds increased and the thumping became unbearable.
Mr. Lees went out to remonstrate; but they only laughed
at him, and congratulated themselves that they had got
one foreign devil to rise and show himself. Disgusted
with both himself and them, he returned to his hard bed
DISPERSING A MOB. 359
and lay down; but not to rest: the court-yard was now
full, and the windows as well as the door were all besieged.
The people thumped yet more incessantly, while those
at the windows tore off the paper and grinned through
the spars. Fortunately we had shutters on the inside,
and these were closed; but only to be forced open by a
stick from without. Up again got Mr. Lees, who was
lying on the “kang” near the window, while I was back
in the shade, so that they could not see me very well.
As he rushed to the door, the rabble made a movement
backward, but soon were upon us again ; not venturing
to open it, he spoke to them through the chinks, to
their great amusement; then he called to the inn-
keeper to clear the court, but he, poor fellow, was as
powerless as the old lady with the broom to keep out
the tide. All this time I lay quietly enjoying the scene,
and at last, seeing Mr. Lees’ perplexity, and that any-
thing we could do would be of no avail, I urged him to
put plenty of tables and chairs behind the door, and go
and lie down. This he did; but coming into the inner
room where we slept, the window of which they had
torn, he said, “But what about the window 2 ” “Close
the shutters and put your feet to them,” was my reply;
so resigning himself to his fate, down he lay with his
feet against the shutters. In this posture he rested
for about half an hour, when lo! the crowds, baffled in
their efforts at the window and door, began to take out
the window bodily in the room adjoining; this they
speedily accomplished with a shout, and as there was no
360 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
door between our sleeping-room and it, they could easily
see us in a slanting direction. The shout drew the
attention of all, and in a twinkling the ledge of the
window and the whole open space within were filled with
Chinamen of all degrees, and in all sorts of attire,
pointing and jabbering like so many baboons. This
was more than we could stand, so I said, “Have you
a stick?” “Yes,” said Mr. Lees, “here is a good
large one.” Up we started, I in my dressing-gown,
and rushed out. The crowds disappeared in an instant;
the children roared and the men fled; but the outer
gate was too narrow for the masses to escape with
sufficient rapidity; many were overthrown in the door-
way, others fell on the top of them in numbers.
Screams, yells, and imprecations arose on all sides, and
men rushed away in all directions to hide themselves.
Determined to clear the place, we pursued the fugitives
up this stable and down that, brandishing, the one a
stick, and the other the handle of an umbrella, to the
infinite terror of the “celestial” mob. At length,
having cleared every corner, and seeing all those who
were in hiding flying before us, we rushed up to the
Outer gate, ordered the innkeeper to shut it and bar it,
shook our deadly weapons in his pale face, and told him
if he allowed a single man to enter he would suffer for
it. With the utmost agility he helped us to shut the
door and fasten it, and stood pale and motionless after
the work was done. Having thus accomplished our
purpose, we could hardly retain our gravity at the
AN APPEAL TO COMMON SENSE. 361
ridiculousness of the scene; here were we, two peaceful
foreigners, in the full possession of a huge inn, and
Several hundreds of Chinamen within and without
trembling at our innocent display of foreign fierceness.
Returning to our room, we passed our carters and
assistant, who, having viewed the whole affair, and
Seeing the absurdness of our plight, one in dressing-
gown, shoes, and bare ankles, and the other in a long-
tailed surtout, with half a foot of an umbrella-handle
in his hand,-burst into convulsions of laughter, which
rang through the court, and in which we heartily joined.
“Pretty missionaries ' " I think I hear some say.
Well, to strangers it certainly appears inconsistent
enough with our profession ; but I do not think any one
acquainted with the Chinese would condemn us. The
truth is, it had become evident that, we must either
rule them, or they would rule us ; and as we had before
experienced the tender mercies of a Chinese crowd, we
knew that the only safe plan was to expel them from the
inn-yard : and the sequel proved the correctness of our
procedure. Having rested for a few minutes, Mr. Lees,
who was dressed, resolved to go out and address them in
the street, while I made my toilet; he did so, and met
with a most excellent reception. He appealed to their
common sense, and to their sense of what was due to
guests in their city; told them our errand, said they
saw we hurt no one, and only wanted rest after the
fatigues of a long journey. They replied that it was a
shame to disturb us. And so, this matter settled, he
362 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
began to preach the Gospel to them. They listened with
great attention, and proved the intelligence of their
apprehension by the aptness and pertinence of their
questions. After he had finished, I joined him, and
preached in my turn. After breakfast we again went
out and traversed the whole city, preaching and speaking
in their squares and temples, not only without interrup-
tion, but with a manifestation of interest and friendly
feeling on the part of all.
I append Mr. Lees’ description of this émeute :-
“Comes jucundus in vić pro vehiculo est.”—
“Sunday, October 13th.-Wery weary. We long for rest,
and, fancying our arrival unknown, hope to get it. How
vainly . With daylight comes the crowd. No chance
of quiet. We get the windows papered, and shut the
doors. Said windows pulled down. Luckily, there are
inside shutters. Ludicrous scenes—No. 1. Mr. Wil-
liamson full length between the blankets on Kang
No. 1. Mr. Lees on his back (dressed) on Kang No. 2,
his legs at an angle of 75°, keeping the shutters closed
with his feet. A grinning, chattering group of pigtails
pushing at the shutter, trying to force the door, and
—oh, horror of horrors l—climbing through the window
of the outer room. J. L. has been growling for some
time, but his companion is philosophical, when—alas
for stoicism l—it becomes evident at last to him, that
his prone condition is seen by a score of laughing eyes
through the exposed doorway, which leads to Scene 2.
“Mr.W. solemnly rises, but with vigour and rapidity.
ENERGETIC CHARGE. 363
Costume—robe de chambre ; lower limbs considerately
exposed for the study of Chinese ethnologists. He
grasps my stick (J.L.)—I follow. The enemy—some five
or six hundred strong, seeing nearly seven feet of foreign
humanity, in long clothes, brandishing a shillelagh,
take to their heels. My giant friend breaks my stick
across some celestial back. The blows fall pretty thick.
We clear the yards and close the gates, returning to
our room in triumph. Heaps upon heaps, with the
handle of an umbrella have I overthrown a thousand
men l’”
( 364 )
CHAPTER XVIII.
JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.—continued.
PART W.-SHEN-SI AND HONAN : RETURN.
A formidable Fortress—Interview with a Mandarin—The Sacred Hill
Hwa-shan—Magnificent Temple in ruins—Tradition respecting it—
Charming Scenery—The Mirage—The Mohammedan Rebellion—
Story of its Origin—Desolate City—Devastated Towns and Villages
—Desecrated Temples—A Company of Prisoners—The Lake of
Grass—A Slough of Despond—City of Si-ngan-foo—Amenities
of the Guard-house—Spacious Lodgings—Preaching to successive
Crowds—Roman Catholic Establishment—Curious Stone—Ancient
Mosque — Quaint Tradition — Mohammedan Compliancy — A
Preaching Tour—View of the City—Self-righteous Community—
“Forest of Tablets *—The Nestorian Tablet—Conversation with
the Catholic Bishop—Dust Storm—Dangerous Pass—Fear of the
Rebels—Wheelbarrow-men—Head of Foh–A Live Buddha.
Toong-KWAN, or “The Eastern Fortress,” as its name
implies, is one of those great passes where taxes are
levied and strong garrisons are kept, such as Shan-hai-
kwan at the eastern end of the great wall between
China and Manchuria, and Tieh-mun-kwan, or the Iron-
gate Fortress, on the new Yellow River near its mouth.
The city is on the western side of the river, and stands
on the slopes of a hill, at the point where Honan
and Shen-si meet. Naturally its position is very strong,
AN ASTROLOGICAL QUESTION. 365
having the Yellow River on one side, sand-hills and
deep sandy defiles on another, and high hills on a third ;
and every point and knoll and angle are taken advantage
of by the Chinese for extra fortifications: thus it is a
most formidable place. There appears to be a good
deal of business done in the city. We found shops and
second-rate warehouses, and a large population of well-
to-do people. We saw great quantities of cotton-wool
on its way westwards, and iron utensils, newly cast,
on four-wheeled trucks, which only required a slight
alteration in the rim of the wheel to fit them for rail-
ways; they were chiefly drawn by oxen, and so made
that they could be yoked to either end. In the course
of the afternoon the Chi-hien mandarin sent in his
card and called upon us; he was very polite, and sat
and talked for a long time. He had those absurd
long nails, five inches long and turned in, which
scholars in China pride themselves upon. He ap-
peared very much concerned about the Mohammedan
rebellion, which has been raging in those parts for
three years. He asked us if we understood astrology
and could tell from the stars whether they or the rebels
would be victorious, bringing vividly before us that
strange propensity of the human heart, exhibited in
all generations, by men in all positions from prince to
peasant, to search the heavens for interpretation of
future events. We confessed our inability, but were
bold enough to refer him to his own classics, where he
would see that corrupt administration was the cause of
866 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
all such revolts; and that justice tempered with mercy,
and a vigorous arm, would soon allay the disturbances.
He appeared to take this well. We then spoke a little of
our religious and other matters, and parted good friends.
Next morning we set out on our journey, leaving the
sale of books for our return visit. Our road for a few
miles lay along the course of the Yellow River, but soon
diverged due west. At first, and for 30 li, the country
Was Sandy, bare, and unpleasant. Immediately on •
passing out of the city we caught sight of the high
elephant-like peak which had previously attracted our
attention in Shan-si. It proved to be the summit of
that sacred hill called the Hwa-shan, which stands next to
the Tai-shan in Shan-tung in the reverence of the people.
This hill is celebrated in the most ancient Chinese his-
torical classics as the mountain to which their second
Emperor Shun repaired in the eighth month, and
offered sacrifices to Heaven, gave audience to the
nobles of the west, and rectified their affairs. This
is reasonably supposed to have occurred about 2200
B.C., and from that time to the present the hill has
been the object of many pilgrimages: it forms one of
the range now covered with temples. The temple dedi-
cated to this sacred hill stands amid a village, called
after it, about 12 li distant from the foot of the hill, and
due south, so exactly that, at noon, the main gate and
main building are in line with the peak and the sun.
This temple covers a large area, and was a most mag-
nificent structure; but the Mohammedans have made
THE SACRED HILL HWA-SHAN. 367
sad wreck of it: it is now in ruins, and its priests
are gone. We got a picture of it taken from a marble
slab, which gives some idea of the late grandeur of the
place. It was an imperial erection, and, until the recent
troubles, was an imposing group of buildings. Khai-yuen
(A.D. 745), an Emperor of the Tang dynasty, is said to
have been its founder. There was abundant evidence
that the place was formerly well worth a visit. Behind
the temple courts, with their arches, pavilions, tablets,
marble bridges, and other adornments, we found ex-
tensive gardens, with terraces and balconies commanding
a most extensive and beautiful prospect. Mounting a
long flight of broad marble steps, we looked down from
the highest terrace upon the temple buildings, most of
them now in ruins and gutted by fire, and then beyond
to old “Elephant,” the high peak, whose head seemed
almost to overhang our standing-place. A curious
traditionary tale connects the mountain with the temple.
It is said that one of the Emperors of the Sung
dynasty, while yet in low station, played chess with a
Tauist priest, the stake being the ownership of this
mountain; when the loser became Emperor, the stake
was paid, the mountain being given to the priest.
The tale has, at least, this confirmation, that the
people who cultivate the land at its base, and on its
sides, to this day pay no land-tax. Of course, the chess-
board is said to have been preserved somewhere ! though
we did not see it. -
From Hwa-i-miau, the name given to the temple, to
368 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
within a few miles of the city of Si-ngan-foo, our road
lay along the foot of that range of mountains called the
Si-ling mountains—sometimes close to them and some-
times at a greater distance. The scenery was most
charming. There were hill and dale and stream, and
parks and orchards ; having much the appearance of
fine English scenery. But the impression was ever
and anon disturbed; for China would force her peculi-
arities on our attention. Cotton, rice, china-grass, cap-
sicums, and other non-English products would appear.
The mirage here startled us, and carried our thoughts
to the deserts of Arabia and Africa, and the stories in
which we have often taken delight. This phenomenon,
which may be witnessed in many parts of China, was
singularly attractive. “See that river and those boats?”
shouted Mr. Lees, as we came out on an open plain.
“And they have sails,” said I; “and observe how they
go.” We then commenced discussing what they could
be, and while so engaged, the vision faded.
But though the natural features of the country in
this autumn were attractive in the extreme, the signs of
desolation which met our gaze changed our pleasure into
sorrow. We had now entered the region of the fierce
Mohammedan rebellion. It originated in the city of
Hoa-chow, whence one wave went backwards to Hwa-i-
miau, but the great flood went onwards towards the
west and destroyed everything that came in its way.
The following was the story told us regarding the
origin of this rebellion. A wealthy man, named Lin,
ORIGIN OF THE REBELLION. 369
hearing of the advance of the long-haired rebels from
the south, hired 300 Mohammedan braves to defend his
own property. When the “Chang-mau"—the Chinese
name for the rebels—came, these men proved faithful:
subsequently, they were dismissed by Lin, without full
wages, and so some of them stole bamboos planted by the
people; this led to disturbances. The mandarins, no
doubt alarmed by recent events, and thinking severity the
only cure for insubordination, were not very just in their
decisions, and seized and killed many of them, almost
without pretence of trial. The rest fought and escaped
into Kan-su, where the Mohammedan element in the
population is large, and returning secretly with large
reinforcements, they entered Hoa-chow, one by one,
so as to disarm suspicion, and scattered themselves
over the city. One night, when all was ready, at a
preconcerted signal, the city was fired in a score of places
at once, and the gates seized by the rebels. The terri-
fied people, who hardly knew where the danger came
from, were massacred almost to a man.*
Hoa-chow, once populous and flourishing, now pre-
sented a most melancholy aspect. There was literally
not one house standing entire ; many were level with
the ground, and all were unroofed. The only habitable
places were two or three houses temporarily covered
with thatch, and occupied by men from the yamun.
* This rebellion still rages. The latest news from China (1st June,
1870) speaks of a defeat of the Imperialists and a slaughter of 20,000
II].CIl.
VOL. I. 24
870 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
We lodged outside the west gate the night after we left
Toong-kwan, in a miserable inn which was in process
of rebuilding. We could get nothing to eat but
bean-cake curd ; and no dishes to eat even that in,
but broken and dirty crockery. The rebels first had
carried off almost everything, and the patriotic soldiers
had made a clean sweep of the little that was left.
There was not a pig nor a fowl to be seen, save one
cock, which we asked the man to cook for us; but he
politely requested us to excuse him, as he kept this
cock to awaken the guests and carters in the morning.
Mr. L. asked for water to wash his face; and, alas,
for our gravity when we saw the dish in which it was
brought ! A man with a large knife was found by the
innkeeper at our door during the night.
October 16th.-Next day the ruins of towns and
cities were yet more numerous ; almost every turn of
the road revealed fresh atrocities. As we passed along,
village after village was lying in the dust, the only
things standing upright being the iron poles which stood
before the temples. In the afternoon we saw a most
painful sight, as we ascended a hill and skirted round
it; for we came in view of a fine plain, in which were
some ten or twelve villages, with only the walls in some
places standing. We were told that for about 100 miles,
at one time, there was not a living man to be found.
Road-side temples seem formerly to have been
numerous in Shen-si : I say formerly, because we
hardly met with one which the iconoclastic Moslems had
DEFACEMENT OF IDOLS.–COTTON DISTRICT. 371
spared, and sometimes insult had been added to injury
in a way which showed the perpetrators had a rather
keen sense of the ludicrous. Sometimes the old clay
gods would be grotesquely defaced, or placed in absurd
positions; I remember seeing one with a native straw-
hat on. These road-side and village temples are all Small,
often only consisting of one court; in this respect differ-
ing from those in Shan-si; but they are more carefully
finished than any we have been wont to see elsewhere.
One very elegant adornment frequently seen in front of
these Shen-si temples takes the place of the huge flag
seen in front of those at Shan-si and elsewhere ; I refer
to the cast-iron poles, often rising 60 feet high, and
most beautifully ornamented. -
We dined at a city called We-man-hien, which had
been also laid low, but which was being rebuilt in the
centre and western suburbs. This place is the centre of
a large cotton district; and as people had come from
Si-ngan-foo and planted seeds, signs of life were mani-
festing themselves in this quarter : we found many
ginning cotton, and packing it by means of a very primi-
tive but effectual press. In the afternoon we passed
through a ruined village, where there was the ghost of a
fair. We sold a few books, and passed on. We found
salt here, precipitated from water which rises at Pu-
cheng-hien, 100 li north, in the Pe-shan Hills.
Arriving at Shing-fung-tswan, another ruined vil-
lage, we quartered at an inn on the west, where we
found rather strange guests—a company of prisoners in
372 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
charge of a small mandarin. We were rather uncom-
fortable in the vicinity of such characters, especially in
this locality, and after the experience of the preceding
night; but we suffered nought except from the fumes
of opium which regaled us all the evening.
On the 17th, we started long before daybreak, as we
wished to get early to Si-ngan-foo; but finding the
country rather disturbed, we got out and walked, one in
front and one behind the carts, to protect them and our-
selves from any sudden attack; when the day dawned,
we were relieved of our anxiety. The country was flat,
and we soon came on marshy ground. About nine
o'clock we reached a fine bridge of many arches, which
could easily have been defended against almost any
numbers by a few valiant men; but these are rare
in China. Passing this, we came upon the Lake of
Grass, so famous in the Chinese Classics, and musing
upon this famous place, we were suddenly recalled to
consciousness by the cart floundering in a morass. By
dint of great effort we got our own cart safely through,
and then our anxiety was concentrated on the great
book-cart, which stuck fast in a veritable Slough of
Despond; for two hours and a half, with all our forces,
we could not move it. Unloading it was our only
resource, and so we set to work; and, even after
every book was taken away, we had great difficulty in
dragging it out to the solid ground. This was a portion
of the great highway, and said little for the authorities
in the provincial capital, which was so close at hand.
RENOWNED CITY OF SI-NGAN-FOO. 373
Having started so early, we were extremely hungry
and could get nothing to eat in this huge lake of reeds;
fortunately I had a piece of cold fowl and hard bread
in my pocket, which we divided and eagerly devoured.
Crossing another fine bridge, which once was ornamental,
we ascended a steep incline to a yet higher plateau,
on which the famous city stood. At the summit we
came in full view of the great and ancient city, and it
was with mingled emotions that we rode across the
intervening plain. Here were we, two undefended
foreigners, approaching the most renowned city in
China—a city whose history rivalled that of any city
in the world—passing over ground trodden by genera-
tions whose deeds are the praise of this people ; our
eyes resting upon scenery which had often feasted the
eyes of men renowned for their wisdom and prowess,
and going through a country, every inch of which was
classic ground.
As we drew near to the gates we were saddened by
the sight of the recent desolations. The Mohammedan
rebels had ravaged the place up to the very walls of the
city: not only were the hamlets on the plain in utter
ruin, but the very suburbs were burnt; indicating at
once the audacity of the robbers and the cowardice of
the rulers. Passing through these heaps of ruins we
came close to the city walls: the sight was imposing; the
walls were very high, and the towers on the gates were
really magnificent, one of them containing as many as
forty-eight windows. The gates themselves were very
374 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
strong, triplex, but straight; not crooked like those at
Ching-ting-fu. Entering the first we were stopped, and
our passports demanded as we got into the second
division. Being told that it would take some time
ere they could be returned, we were invited into the
guard-house, and very politely treated; we were pre-
sented with tea, which only whetted our now keen
appetites. Informing the officer of our want of food, we
were escorted to a large dining-room in the suburbs,
crowds, of course, following us; but the officials kept us
as free from annoyance as they could. Here we had a
good dish of mutton and wheaten bread; and, satisfied,
we returned to the guard-room, where we now met some
of the higher officers, and as the passports had not yet
arrived, we took the opportunity of fully explaining the
nature of our mission; we also good-humouredly twitted
them on the good condition of the imperial high-
way in the environs of such a city, so famous in the
annals of the “great flourishing central kingdom.”
By-and-by the order came for our admittance, and we
were conducted by back-streets to the inn; the streets
appeared endless, and the distances so immense, that I
began to fear some trick was being played upon us. At
last we were shown to an inn, which would not suit; we
visited several in the same locality, and finally were
taken to one which was most admirably adapted for our
purposes. We wished to be in the most populous part
of the city, and at the same time were anxious not to
interfere in any degree with the great traffic. This
CAPACIOUS INN.—IMPROMPTU PULPIT. 375
place appeared as if prepared for us: a covered way
led to it; within were three courts and three suites of
buildings; the first court could contain about 500 or
600 people. Our rooms were the inmost ones, and out
of the way, but in the chief street of the city. Moreover,
the inn not only had no other guests, but was to be let,
So that there was no landlord fuming and fussing about,
afraid lest our residence should spoil his business, and
we had the whole place to ourselves. It being too late
to begin work, we waited till the following morning, and
then we had our fill. One of the horse-stalls in the first
court formed the pulpit on which we stood; our books
being arranged on a table at our feet. We preached in
turns with our native assistant, and sold our books in the
intervals. We had no need to cross the threshold, for
crowd after crowd thronged the yard, and from morning
till sunset the place was crammed with eager listeners.
Next morning we were awakened at dawn by the
cawing of the innumerable rooks which build in the trees
in the city, so we rose and had an early walk outside the
west gate. Returning, and having taken a hasty meal,
we recommenced our work; which was as arduous and pro-
tracted as on the former day. On the previous evening
a native priest, sent by the Bishop, called and invited
us to visit the Roman Catholic establishment. We
explained to him who we were, and gave him a copy of
each of our books, and said that we feared the Bishop
might not care for us after knowing our errand. He
returned, however, in the course of the day, and politely
376 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
repeated the invitation, saying, “like themselves we
wished to save the souls of men.” We accordingly
accepted it.
The morning of the 19th opened wet. We were up
betimes, however, and went in search of the Nestorian
tablet. Being assured that it was in some mosque, we
asked our butcher, who was a Mohammedan, to get a
guide for us. He most cheerfully provided one—a
respectable old man—and accompanied us part of the
way himself. The first mosque we visited was a small
one, but of handsome interior, and well kept. In a
school-room in the yard, we found many Arabic books,
but few able to read them. Here we were shown a
precious stone, fixed in the pavement before the great
door. It was about one foot Square, white, with,
apparently, water moving inside of it—I suppose owing
somehow to the refraction of the rays of light. It was
certainly very curious, and considered of great interest
by the people. From this we went to another—the
oldest mosque in China—a building founded in the
Tang dynasty, one thousand years ago : the present
buildings look old, but cannot boast of such a date as
that. The chief court-yard was decorated with groups
of artificial rock-work and a variety of tablets, and
an old cypress-tree was pointed out to us, said to
date from that era; indeed it was actually labelled the
“Tang-pai-shoo.” Another curious stone fixed near
the door of the hall was also shown to us; seeing a
number of nails in it, we asked an explanation, and
CURIOUS TEST OF PROBITY. 377
were told the following story. During the Soong
dynasty, it was customary for mandarins on leaving
office to come to this stone, and have their probity
tested. If the magistrate could knock a nail into it,
this proved incontrovertibly that his hands were clean
from bribes, &c.; but if the stone refused to receive the
nail, it was evidence sufficient that he had practised
injustice. Mr. Lees wished to test it for himself, but was
assured it would now be useless. After visiting a third
mosque, by far the largest, but about which there was
nothing novel, we returned home unsuccessful in our
Search, but resolved to attempt another investigation in
a different direction.
The state of Mohammedanism in this quarter of
China appeared to us a matter of some importance,
as this city was not only in former times the home and
head-quarters of Nestorian Christianity, but also that of
the opposing faith. Moreover, it was additionally inter-
esting at the present moment, in view of the formidable
rebellion raised by these religionists, and which was still
raging. We often wondered why so many of them,
computed at 15,000 families, were permitted to live in
quietness in this city; enemies in the camp, as it were.
Accordingly we made several inquiries, both during our
intercourse with the leading men this morning, and more
privately of our butcher, who was a very sincere and plea-
Sant man, and our curiosity was satisfied on many points.
When the rebellion broke out the chief Mohammedans,
who remained in the city, were all seized ; they
378 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
were examined, and ordered to renounce their religion
on pain of death. They complied, and accordingly
made several changes in the designations and internal
economy of their mosques. On the top of the great
gate of their places of worship, instead of the usual
title, “Li-pai-Sze,” or “Temple for Worship,” they
had “I-hioh,” or “ Hall for Gratuitous Instructions,”
—a name frequently given to free-schools. Also,
within the Sacred halls, where the Koran is read, and
on a table facing the entrance, was an imperial tablet,
with the inscription, “Hwang-ti wan mien, wan wan
nien”—“The Emperor, may he live 10,000 years,
100,000,000 years.” Before this were incense-pots and
candlesticks, and all the furniture of heathen temples.
Again, on the right hand of this, stood another tablet,
newly erected, and painted blue, with the inscription, “Chi
sheng hien si Kung-tzi Shin wei”—“The resting-place
(or throne) of the spirit of the most holy sage Confucius.”
We saw these things in each mosque we visited. The
Mohammedans appeared ashamed of them, and were most
anxious to assure us that it was a “mere form” done
under compulsion, and that “no true disciple of the Pro-
phet could ever deny his faith.” They did not seem to
feel the force of our arguments for consistency; indeed it
takes a clear perception of truth, and true faith and strong,
to brave death. Having acquiesced in these alterations,
they were permitted to live unmolested, and to carry on
their ordinary avocations as before. They denied all
interest in the rebellion, although they admitted that a
A PREACHING TOUR. 379
number of their best scholars and A-hungs had fled and
joined the insurgents, leaving them only second-rate
men to conduct their services. They have no fewer
than eight mosques.
On the following morning we set out together
on a preaching tour through the city; with difficulty
we found open spaces suitable for our purpose, but
had the satisfaction of speaking in several places to
large congregations. The principal streets were well
paved, and full of good shops. Proceeding east and
then South, we came to the south gate; and the people
being fewer in this locality, we ascended the wall, and had
a fine view of the city. It appeared immense, and densely
filled with houses, having little or no vacant ground
or gardens, as in other cities; owing, I suppose, to the
country-people having fled to it, and built over such
localities. The walls are high, thick and strong, covered
with good towers at short distances; and heaps of stones
were found piled up within the embrasures to throw down
upon besiegers. These walls were said to be 10 li by
5 li; the city had four huge gates, with immense towers
or barracks on each. On the top of them we conversed
with the people who followed us ; and especially with
a man from Muirhead's foundry at Shanghai, who
had come vid Hankow to cast cannon. He spoke
“pigeon English,” “ and in such a locality it was refresh-
ing even to hear that. Turning to doctrine, we had an
* English, according to Chinese idiom, spoken by Chinamen at the
ports.
380 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
amusing instance of the self-righteousness of the natives.
One said, “Oh ! we are all good here; you have no need
to exhort us to be holy: we have no sin. At Lan-chow”
(the capital of Kan-su) “they are bad, but not here.”
Descending, we went round towards the S.E. corner.
Here we found the famous Pei-lin, or “Forest of
Tablets,” or, Pei-kung, “Tablet Palace.” This is an
extremely interesting place. Here are tablets of the
several dynasties from B.C. 100 downwards, including the
Han, Soong, Tang, Yuen, and Ming dynasties. They
have been collected from many quarters, and form an
unique museum. Most of the tablets are the work of
Scholars of some repute; some are famous all over the
empire. The subjects are various : some are specimens
of elegant caligraphy, others are historical scenes; some
are emblematical animals, some sacred birds, some are
drawings of their famous mountains, some likenesses of
their great men ; among these last we found a full-sized
portrait of Confucius and several of his disciples, but
not nearly so good as those in his own temple at Kio-foo-
hien. The most celebrated of all are the thirteen Clas-
sics cut in stone, dating from the Tang dynasty, far
anterior to those in Peking, now so famous. Many men
were engaged in taking lithographs from them, which
they offered for sale ; the mode in which they were
taken is most ingenious, but too tedious to detail here.
They informed us that the Nestorian tablet was still
extant among the ruins of a temple called the Ching-
tung, outside the west gate. Resolving to revisit this
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THE NESTORIAN TABLET. 381
museum next day and purchase a few of their rubbings,
we returned to the inn, and then went to try and find
the famous tablet. Gaining the western suburbs we
came on the ruins of a Buddhist monastery; an old
priest said, “This is not your temple, it is there,”
pointing to a field of devastation away on the south-
east. Passing through a field of wheat, and leaping
over a demolished wall, we entered. Here, to our joy,
I found the tablet, recognizing it from the fac-simile
which I have at home, bought from book-hawkers.
There it stood perfect, with not a scratch on it, as
represented in the annexed plate, in a brick enclosure
facing the south, amid heaps of stones, bricks and
rubbish on all sides. The preserving care of a wise
Providence was the first thought in our minds, for
this tablet not only enunciates all the leading doc-
trines of our holy religion, but is a most important
witness in favour of our faith in opposition both to
the heathen and Romanist, as it shows that the
Protestant form of Christianity is not of yesterday.
We examined it as carefully as our time would permit,
for the sun was fast descending, and we were in dread
of being shut out of the city. The Syriac on the sides
of the tablet was not seen, but we found Syriac at
the foot : very likely that on the sides was now
built in. On the left side of the tablet a small
portion o the edge of the stone is exposed, bear-
ing an inscription to the effect that in the 9th year
of Hien-fung (viz. 1859), one thousand and sixty-nine
382 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
years after its erection, a man named Han-tai-wha, from
Woo-lin, had come to visit it, and had found the
characters and ornamentation perfect, and that he had
rebuilt the brick covering in which it stood. He then
exclaims: “Alas! that my friend Woo-tze-mi was not
with me, that he also might have seen it. On this
account I am very Sorry.”
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The inscription on the tablet is too long for inser-
tion here. We give the concluding words, which are as
follows: “This tablet was erected A.D. 781, in the
second year of Kien-chung, the ninth Emperor of the


























































NESTORIAN CROSS. 383
Tang dynasty, on the seventh day of the first moon.
Ning-shu, priest, being special law-lord and preacher to
those of this illustrious religion throughout the regions
of the East.”
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FAC-SIMILE OF R.U.B.BING OF THE NESTORIAN CROSS.
For a full account of it—and a triumphant vindication
of its authenticity—the reader may consult Mr. Wylie's
most elaborate and Scholarly translation and commen-
tary, first published in the North China Herald. See
also Williams' Middle Kingdom, vol. ii. pp. 291-7.



























384. JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
Having stayed as long as we dared, we hastened
home, and had a race to be in time before the gates
were shut: we got in just as the officers had arrived to
close them.
According to promise we now went to visit the
Roman Catholic establishment, which lies in the north
of the city. This took us through the north-west angle,
where we had not been hitherto. Our friends were
awaiting us, and received us with great politeness and
apparently good feeling. We were ushered into a fine
room, where we met the Bishop of Shan-si, and one of
the priests resident in the city. We conversed in
Chinese on a good many subjects, and referring to the
great Mohammedan rebellion, we asked if there was any
leader of ability, and any likelihood of it resulting in
dominion ? Bishop Kau (for that was his Chinese
name) replied in the negative, saying, “ There were
hosts of chiefs, but apparently no universally recognized
leader, and that there was little chance of them esta-
blishing a kingdom.” Again replying to my inquiry
regarding their hostility to the Christian religion, he
said, “They had shown great clemency; that they had
not (knowingly) hurt a Roman Catholic, but they had
spared several, and passed by large places in which
Roman Catholics resided, without doing them the least
injury; professedly because the inhabitants belonged to
the religion of the Lord of Heaven.” He also said that
“we need apprehend no danger should we happen to fall
into their hands.” We asked how many Christians were
AFFECTING FAREWELL. 385
in his diocese : he answered about 20,000 souls, and
added, with much feeling, that “through the special
mercy of God they had hardly suffered anything from
the rebels.” We felt drawn towards the good old man:
he had come from Piedmont, and had been thirty-three
years in China; his companion was from Genoa, and had
been thirty years in this country. The object of our visit
having been referred to, we again assured them that we
were not in the habit of decrying Roman Catholics, and
that they were, doubtless, doing good and saving souls.
They were pleased, and evidently reciprocated our senti-
ments ; especially the Bishop. Having conversed for
some time, we rose to depart, and they accompanied us
to the door. We expressed the hope that, though of a
different form of the true faith, we were all journeying
to the same eternal home: We shook hands with them,
when the Bishop in English said, “Good-night,” and
appeared somewhat affected; we said, “May God bless
you.” The tears started in Mr. Lees' eyes, and he
expressed his farewell in the words of the apostolic .
benediction; the old man, startled at first, immediately
seized Mr. Lees’ hands a second time with both of his,
and in tears reciprocated the kindly feeling ; and thus
we parted, all a good deal moved. The native pastor and
the other attendants also joined in good wishes.
Returning to our inn in the dark, we soon lay down
to rest. Next morning at daybreak Mr. Lees went off to
have a more attentive look at the Nestorian tablet, and
take drawings of it, one of which is engraved in the
WOL. I. 25
386 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
preceding plate; an enlarged drawing of the ornaments
at the top is also given on page 382. He also took a
rubbing of the cross at the top of the stone, of which
we give a fac-simile on page 383. I remained at the
inn, packing up and making preparations to start.
Then, all being ready, and Mr. Lees still absent, I com-
menced work, and sold books and preached to a good
number. -
Mr. L. having returned, we breakfasted, and imme-
diately started on our return journey. We did not,
however, at once leave the city, but, preaching and
selling all the time, took the carts round to the Museum
of Tablets, where we purchased a large number of
rubbings. We thought of buying a lithograph of the
Classics; but they asked far too much, and so we had to
relinquish that curiosity. - .
We then went to the Manchu city, which lies within
the other in the corner. In this place we visited the
site of the old palace of the great Tang dynasty, of
which there was not a vestige remaining; the site being
a great space of level ground covered with grass—in
fact, a fine lawn—and walled round: they now use it
for the purposes of archery. .
Returning through the Manchu city, we recom-
menced work and disposed of many books. Thus,
preaching and selling, we continued our slow progress
through the famous old capital, and towards the after-
noon reached the gate by which we entered; and having
dined at our former eating-house, we left the city with
A WELCOME SURPRISE.-BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. 387
hearts full of gratitude to God. Several of the
Mohammedans were extremely civil to us, and some
expressed considerable interest in our work. “When
will you come back?” one asked. We replied, “We
wait the will of God; when He directs, we return.”
Certainly we would have stayed much longer in the
city, but our time was greatly limited : the Tien-tsin
river would be closed by ice in the course of a few weeks,
and if not there previously we should have to endure a
second terrible overland journey to Che-foo. The sun
declining, we left the city ; the carters joyful, cracking
their whips and making the now lightly-loaded carts
speed on their way. Arriving at the “ Slough of
Despond,” and anticipating another stick in the mud,
we found (to our amazement) that the hole was filled up
and the road entirely repaired; showing that a hint is
not always thrown away. We went on in the dark, and
made 40 li that night.
Our way lay along the same road as far as Toong-
kwan, so that further description is unnecessary; only,
let me add, that this portion of our route was the finest,
in point of beauty, in the whole journey. We had
passed through grander scenery and more picturesque
places; but the variety, pleasant and attractive character
of this district surpassed all. For many miles the country
was like one continued splendid park, with knolls, and
lawns, and winding paths, leading rouhd some huge
fantastic boulder, which had descended from the moun-
tains which lay contiguous on the South, or up some
388 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
slope covered with wild-flowers. For two days the road
lay through this district ; oftentimes it was quite an
avenue of fine trees, and every now and then it opened
out and disclosed to view delicious bits of scenery.
A large eagle kept us company one day, flying from
crag to crag on the adjoining mountains; which were
sometimes bare, rugged limestone, at others covered
with clumps of trees and brushwood.
The recuperative faculty of the Chinese greatly
surprised us on our way back through this district.
Though only a few days had elapsed since we passed
onwards, we found considerable improvement in many
places: several new houses had been completed, others
had been greatly advanced, new shops had been
opened, and a marked change in many towns and
villages had taken place. On the third day we arrived
at Toong-kwan, where we had the scene before de-
scribed. The strength of the place again struck us.
Measuring the west gate we found the inner gate 40
paces, or about 120 feet thick, of splendid brickwork,
the arch most admirably made, and the outer gate 20
paces, or about 60 feet. The population, exclusive of
soldiers, is said to be nearly 70,000. The garrison is
very large, and there are two other camps on the opposite
side of the Yellow River, said to number 13,000 men
each. A most painful dust-storm came on early, and
continued throughout the whole day ; we did not feel
it so much after we arrived in the city, but on our
way in the early morning it was most disagreeable,
DUST-STORM.–NARROW DEFILE. 389
and the wind being from the north, cold added to the
annoyance. After working for some time in the
city, we set out, hoping that the storm had abated;
but were mistaken.
Leaving Toong-kwan, we now made for Kai-fung-
fooh ; here we left our old road and diverged to
the South-east, keeping the southern side of the
Yellow River. The dust-storm still raged, filling our
eyes, ears, and mouths with sand, whilst the cold pene-
trated to the very bones; and, to make the matter
worse, we now entered one of the great passes which
lead into Honan. This was just a continuous defile,
cut out by traffic, in the midst of immense sand-hills;
the road would not permit two carts to pass, so that
we had to shout perpetually, and when we heard answer-
ing cries, to raise our voices, that the comers might
take up their position in some wide place, and enable us
to pass. -
About the middle of the afternoon, we reached the
great gate which divides Shen-si and Honan. We passed
through without molestation, and hoped that the country
would improve, but in vain ; still the defile was before
us and sand-banks excluding any view: oftentimes 200
feet high on either hand. Towards evening we
emerged on a level plain, by the banks of the Yellow
River. Here we found a number of coal-barges dis-
charging coal, which had come 700 li down the stream,
from Yoong-chi-hien ; the coal was good, and was
sold from the boats at 250 cash per picul of 133 lbs.
390 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
The boats were very singular, large, oblong, and flat-
bottomed, and decorated with a multitude of bells on
the masts and rigging; two huge storks completing the
ornamentation : each boat had a good-sized house on
deck, for the comfort of the sailors. They had come
down the river at the rate of about 170 li per day, but
the average return rate was only 60 li. Finding a good
inn at a small village, we took up our quarters for the
night.
Next day our road lay along the banks of the
Yellow River, which in this quarter consisted of a suc-
cession of rapids and shallows, sometimes opening out
into a fine broad stream, and anon contracting into a
comparatively narrow river. There were few boats on
it; evidently, the Chinese do not think it worth their
while to navigate the stream. Passing along on a low
sandy plain between the river and the mountains, we
found many natives engaged in sweeping the Soil into
heaps; on examining the stuff, we found it was a
species of soda which exuded from the earth, and
which, after having been purified, was used for many
purposes. About eleven o’clock we made Wen-hiang.
(hien), a poor little city, with rather picturesque gates.
It was built close to the Yellow River, and apparently
must soon be washed away, for the river was now chose
on the walls. There were many ruins inside, Souvenirs
of the Tai-ping rebels.
Leaving this city we came upon immense fields of
cotton, and these were visible all the afternoon as far as
• COTTON-FIELDS.—DANGEROUS DEFILE. 391
the eye could reach ; whilst many carts of cotton were
Inoving to Si-ngan-foo. Next day, the road still bad,
we met yet more carts, drawn by six and eight oxen,
packed with cotton on its way to that city. In the
forenson, we passed a well-known range of hills, and
through another famous pass, which a few resolute men
could easily defend against all comers. Towards the
afternoon, we entered another defile, and, as we thought
we had plenty of time to get to the inn before dark, we
went on herrily. The carters had persistently affirmed
that the Î in Honan was longer than in Shan-si; and
we had laughed at them, for we imagined that the li at
least was uniform throughout the Celestial Empire.
|Unfortunately they were correct; and we were caught
by darkness ºnd benighted in this dangerous defile: there
was no help or it, so onward we sped. At first the pass,
though narrow, and with high banks, was comparatively
level, but by and-by the path began to descend, and
became steeper and steeper; so much so that the mules
could hardly klep their feet, the cart pushing them from
behind. At last we deemed it prudent to take some
precautions; a cordingly, I went first with a huge
pole, feeling myway, and shouting out the nature of the
road. Proceeding a little way in this manner, I heard
the sound of mues coming up ; partly reassured by this,
we went on quicker. Soon they came near, and, to our
discomfiture, we found them laden with bamboos, so
that we did not now how to get past them. What
was to be done 2 We could not go back up-hill; they
392 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
must go downward; and so we all (their own muleteers
included) put our hands and voices into active operation,
By dint of roaring at the mules and tugging at the
bamboos, we got them back to a place cut out of the side •
of the defile to let carts pass. Stowing them in here,
we passed on, but found our dangers increasing. I was
in front of all, and Mr. Lees between the first cart and
the second ; the incline became yet more step, the
mules yet more restless, and with the carts thumping
on their hind-quarters, there was a great chance of their
setting off, or being pushed downwards on me, or Mr.
Lees being crushed between the two. We therefore
proceeded with extreme caution, the carters and our-
selves every now and then holding on by th; wheels to
keep the carts back, and sometimes, when there was not
room at the sides, pulling behind. We hid no light,
and it was pitch-dark. After a time we heard the
sound of water; could it be the Yellow River ? We
came to a fine gate and emerged on a plain “Now we
are safe,” we exclaimed. “The city and inn must be
here.” We little knew what was before Is. Wearied,
we remounted our carts and went forwarl ; no signs of
houses, or lights—only darkness and the Sound of
rapidly flowing water. Proceeding slowly forward, we
saw a light at some distance; cheered by the gleam, we
went on, but only to be brought to a stand-still by a
wide river. We all again dismounted; Mr. Lees and
I held the mules by the head and th carters returned
to find out the ruts. Having run hithr and thither for
A DANGEROUS PASS AND FORD. 393
Some time, with heads bent to the earth like so many
hounds on the scent of a hare, one cried, “Here they
are l’” We took the carts to the spot and followed the
ruts; the track led to the water; we entered, and in a
moment were up to the axles. The front cart drove
through deeper and deeper water, and the carter jumped
off into the water up to the waist; the other carter
followed ; presently we shallowed, and were soon safe
across. Making for the light, we discovered it came from
a corn-mill; but the carts were stopped by impassable
ditches. The carter having gone to make inquiries,
presently returned, saying the men informed him that
the inn lay downwards from them. We turned away,
and feeling our road, determined to cross no more
rivers. At last we came on to the highway, and reached
the inn, where the people were amazed at the sight of
us; and when we informed them that we had come
through the pass and crossed the river in the dark,
they exclaimed that we must have been under the care
of Tien-lao-ye (the popular name for God), as the
stream is the “Black Dragon Torrent,” and full of dan-
gerous holes, and moreover is liable to heavy freshets
which come down from the hills unexpectedly, and carry
everything before them : only a few days previously five
carts had been carried away, and mules, men, and every
vestige of them had perished.
Ling-pai-hien, which is the name of the city where
we found ourselves, is a small place, but famous for its
fish-ponds of gold and silver fish, which are sold all over
394 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
the country. Getting up in the morning we found the
South gate shut, to prevent the entrance of the “spirit
of fire" which was burning up the soil, and the people
were all engaged in praying for rain. Singularly enough
rain began to fall and continued the whole day.
We crossed many hills, the scenery reminding us of
Yorkshire moors, and reached the suburbs of Shen-
chow.
28th October, Sunday.—To-day, as we finished
worship, we were startled by the intelligence that the
rebels were advancing in our direction, and that all
communication between this and Honan-foo had been
cut off. At first we were somewhat doubtful of the
rumour, and paid little attention to it. By-and-by,
seeing the people in the suburbs all astir and carrying
their furniture into the city, we thought it was time
to make some definite inquiries. Accordingly it was
agreed that Mr. Lees should go to the mandarin’s
office, and I should stay and watch the carts, lest they
should be seized by the terrified people in order to
escape, or the carters bolt for their own safety and leave
us in the lurch. In a short time Mr. Lees returned,
confirming the intelligence, and saying that the rebels
had occupied, the previous day, a place only 280 li,
or 80 miles from us. The officials had informed him
that they had despatched a courier to gather yet more
detailed information, and advised him to wait where we
were till next day, which we did. As may be supposed,
we did not spend a very comfortable night, for it was
FEAR OF THE REBELS. 395
obvious that the flying columns of the rebels could
come as quick as the information, and if it was their
purpose to surprise the city, might be down upon it
any moment.
Through the night nothing occurred. Next morn-
ing we found the country-people on the west side, in
numbers, hurrying towards the city with goods and
provisions, and the west gate nearly blocked up with the
throng, but no alarm apparently in the east, in the
direction of the marauders. This reassured us some-
what, and we resolved to proceed onwards till we saw
some more obvious signs of these dreaded bands. We
were also the more disposed to go on, as we had a ferry
across the Yellow River, in our rear, and had obtained
a pass from the governor of the city. Crack went the
whip, and away we rode. At first everything looked
well and peaceful, but gradually the road assumed a
different aspect ; travellers coming from the east
thickened ; we met a man leading his wife on a mule
in a great state of trepidation, and soon afterwards
whole families, in carts, flying to the city. They all
made the same report—“The rebels were on their way
towards us, but were not close at hand.” About nine
o'clock, we met the courier, but he galloped past us, with
two spare steeds at his heels, and would give us no
information whatever. As we were now near a large
town, a great station on the highway, we resolved to
drive on to it, and there feed our mules, and decide on
our course. When we arrived, we found all the people
896 JournBY THROUGH CHIH II, SHAN-SI, ETC.
grave in their aspect, and evidently alarmed ; not a
few, especially elderly persons, wore that stoical ex-
pression which revealed at once their terror, and their
purpose to die callously—if such should be their fate.
Here, too, we found scouts, active intelligent men on
excellent horses, preparing to approach as near as
possible to the rebel camp. -
The usual self-importance, bustle, and even greed,
had fled from the innkeeper, who was as sober as a
judge, and went about like a man who knows that his
body may be food for the dogs next day. He told us
that, as not one traveller or cart had come from Honan-
foo for two days, the rebels were certainly somewhere
between there and here; and when we spoke of going
South towards Hankow, he heaved a sigh, and said,
“Alas! that road is also closed up.” Thus there
appeared no alternative but to return to the ferry
as fast as we could ; and so with hearts sad, and
disappointed at the thought of missing Homan-foo,
Kai-fung-foo, and in some measure re-travelling over the
road we came, we took our dinner, fed our beasts, and
set out for the ferry. Passing rapidly over the road,
travellers asked us about the rebels, and the people in
the villages rushed to the doors with the same eager
inquiry. Poor people ! we sincerely pitied them ; for
these rebels are simply human fiends: they kill every
person they find, except young men, whom they compel
to serve, and a few of the young women. All others,
old and young, male and female, and even dogs, are
DESPONDENCY OF THE PEOPLE. 397
killed, that they may thus husband their provisions as
much as possible. I asked, why stay in their villages
—why not flee ? They replied that “it was of no use: ”
they could not carry sufficient provisions. They had
no money to hire beasts, and no money to pay for
inns, or their expenses in the cities; thus it was best to
take their chance, and die at once.
We reached the ferry—which was fifty li from
Chang-ma, where we dined—just in time to see the last
boat leave for the opposite shore. This was vexing;
for there were no inns, nor any accommodation for us
near the river. Moreover, we had come down a terrible
descent to the bank of the river, and no persuasion
would induce the carters to drag their carts up again.
We shouted as loud as we could, and the ferryman on the
other side seeing us, sent over a small boat for us,
sufficient for our two persons, but inadequate for our
carts. What was to be done 2 It would not do to
leave the carts, and so we agreed to separate : one to go
over, and, if possible, send a large boat for the carts,
and the other to stay with the luggage. Neither
alternative was pleasant, as the one who went would
run the risk of great trouble and a wearisome night, and
the one who stayed might be caught by the rebels.
However, as the books and carts were mine, T offered to
remain, and so providing Mr. Lees with rugs, &c.,
parted from him. He reached the other side in safety;
but nothing would induce the ferrymen to take a large
boat over in the dark to bring us. The mandarins
398 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
refused Mr. Lees an audience, and appointed spies to
track him, and sent him for a lodging, first to this place,
then to that. At last he found a wretched hole, and lay
down on some table, only to be awaked by runners from
the yamun, in the shape of literary men eager to hear
about the doctrines; and thus, half sleeping, half preach-
ing, he spent the night.
My troubles were of a different sort, but rather more
alarming. After looking about us, we found a small
hut under the bank of the river, consisting of an inner
room and an outer shed; the inmates turned out and"
gave me the room. Our assistant lay down inside one of
the carts, and the carters watched and slept alternately.
Having made our supper of eggs and rice, just as I
was lying down, I heard a terrible shouting across the
river. Thinking it to be Mr. Lees, after all, I sent the
assistant to see what it was, and found that it was a
despatch from the governor of the city, Shen-chow,
telling the soldiers to prepare for the rebels. This was
not reassuring. But what could we do? There was no
use in getting up, for they certainly would not take us
over till daybreak, if even then after such news; and so
committing ourselves to Him whose we are, and whom
we serve, we lay down again in peace. But we were not
allowed to rest long. Another noise, very like that of
horses’ hoofs, awoke us ; we sat up and listened, and
it appeared to proceed from a large troop of horsemen
tramping along the Sands.
I rose and went to the door, when the sound re-
AN IMPUDENT OFFICIAL. 399
solved itself into the noise of soldiers on the opposite
shore. Having slept awhile, we were again thoroughly
aroused : this time the tinkling of bells and the sound
of footsteps were evident. I went out and found bands
of camels marching up the bank on this side, and halting
opposite the ferry. It was now dawn : So we called the
carters and told them to prepare, and then went down
to the camel-drivers to inquire about the rebels. We
found the chief very much excited, and utterly incom-
municative; but by-and-by we discovered that they had
been on their way to Fan-chung with salt for the Han-kow
market; but, meeting with the rebels, had fled, leaving
their burdens of Salt among the mountains. As the
sun rose the ferrymen began their operations; boat
after boat was loosed from the opposite bank, and
making a diagonal course through the force of the
current, landed far down on the near shore. We made
for the landing-place, but no one would take us. An
impudent official wished to examine all our luggage ;
we told him we had a pass from the governor of Shen-
chow, but having further said that it was in the posses-
sion of our friend who passed over during the preceding
evening, he shook his head incredulously. At last Mr.
Lees' tall figure appeared on the slopes, amid a crowd of
Chinamen, hastening down to the beach. He shouted
“All right!” and in a few minutes a boat pushed off
for us. Mr. Lees had, after great annoyance, persuaded
the mandarins to send a boat for us. Having got our
carts and men all safely on board, we soon reached the
400 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
fort, where we landed, and exchanged our experiences,
amid alternate bursts of laughter and indignation. I
then began my work; in a short time he returned to
relieve me, and thus we wrought on till noon, selling
not a few books, and speaking not a little.
We found the place strongly fortified, and swarming
with soldiers, runners, and officials of all grades. The
town itself is not large, but there appears to be a good
deal of business done in Salt and grain. The only inn
we could get into was wretched; we both needed sleep,
but that was out of the question in our circumstances:
so we worked on till the sale slacked, resolving to leave
the place as soon as we could. We were informed that
the highway was impassable for carts till night, owing
to a continual stream of wheelbarrows carrying salt,
occupying the whole day on the road for 50 li; dis-
crediting the story, we started, but were soon brought
up. The report was more than true, and such an
afternoon I think I never spent on any journey. The
road was narrow, and the wheelbarrows had to be piled up
at the sides; the barrowmen seemed to think we had no
right to the road, that the way was theirs at that time
of the day, and they pushed on in strings of eight or
ten, leaving an interval of twenty yards or so for another
string, utterly regardless of us. One of us had to go
forward in front and inform them of our coming, and
try to stop them in wide places, and through dint of
entreaty and persuasions and threatening, We managed
to get through them.
WHEELBARROWS AND BARROWMEN. 401
The barrowmen in Shan-tung are bad enough, but
these are lower than they. The loads were dreadful,
and the work beyond anything I ever saw ; the pushing
and tugging and swaying of the men's bodies, as the
barrow rolled over the uneven, often stony road, was
terrific, and the ravenous, eager eating at the inns
on the road-sides excited the most painful feelings.
Human labour is cheaper here than donkey-hire; this
has gone on for years, and will go on till railways
cheapen the carriage of goods, and thus break the yoke
from off such slaves. Having emerged from the plague
of the wheelbarrows, we went a little faster, and soon
reached an inn 50 li distant from the fortification.
During the night we were aroused by a number of carts
coming into the inn : they had started at dusk, as we
were advised to do, to avoid the wheelbarrow nuisance,
and travelled in the dark.
30th. Next morning, starting early, we drove through
a most pleasant country. Towards nine o'clock we
arrived at a stony district, and had to cross a bad hill;
here, unfortunately, we met thirty carts, with four and
five mules each, laden with powder, guns, and pikes,
at the very worst part of the road : they were bound
for the ferry, to strengthen the fortifications. Having
passed them with difficulty,+for the road was narrow,
steep, and full of large stones,—we soon came to
another pleasant track, and after crossing Some hills,
we again entered the province of Shan-si.
Driving on a little distance we came to a village
WOL. I. 26
402 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
where we ought to have changed the axles of the carts,
for the ruts were now on the wide gauge ; but the
carter being unwilling to spend his money, and we
ourselves anxious to get on to the city for work, we
listened the more credulously to his tale that the old
axles would do for the present. The country now became
more interesting. At the foot of the hills we found fine
springs of water gushing out of the ground, and led
away by wooden pipes and cuttings, reminding us of
bleach-fields. Shortly afterwards we passed an aqueduct,
and soon arrived at Hia-hien. Here there was a fair ;
so one of us immediately went to work, and the other to
breakfast, who, having partaken of a hasty meal, relieved
his friend, and enabled him likewise to satisfy the
cravings of hunger. We stayed here, selling and preach-
ing, till the people seemed satisfied, and then mounting
our carts again, set out. The city is Small, with only a
very moderate trade; the people were well clad and
apparently comfortable, but rather rough. During the
afternoon the country continued fine, often extremely
pleasant. Towards evening the cart tumbled and nearly
crushed my right arm ; but a kind Providence was over
us, and I escaped with only a little abrasion of the skin:
fortunately the road was too narrow to allow the cart
to fall flat on its side; it was caught on the embank-
ment, and so was soon righted.
31st. To-day our attention was specially drawn to
pagodas for averting evil, and we found the people more
than usually superstitious. We gained our old track,
IIEAD OF “FOH.”— A LIVE BUDDHA. 403
and rejoiced to be again on the great Shan-si imperial
highway. From this point on to Fu-ching-i, in Chih-li,
our way lay back over the same road, and therefore we
have little more to say in reference to this journey.
On the 1st of November the weather got suddenly
very cold, and made us quicken our steps lest we should
be too late for the steamers; nevertheless, we sold books
whenever we had an opportunity, and invariably preached
at all our halting-places. Reaching Ping-yang-foo, I
again visited the famous head of “Folh.” It is raised on
a short neck, is 22 or 24 feet high, and 45 feet in
circumference at the lower part : I could only reach to
its nose. Green hair in locks hangs down all around and
down the back; it has hanging ears, six feet in length,
and the face is painted a reddish-purple. The figure
is of iron inside and painted clay outside.
November 4th. To-day we met Mongols and lamas
returning home, who told us they were part of a large
company behind ; accordingly, in the afternoon, we
met great numbers, in red and yellow clothes, hurrying
onwards. Suddenly the rabble assumed a more regular
form, and we found horsemen riding in single file in all
the pomp and circumstance of authority. We were told
they were escorting a living Buddha : this excited
our curiosity; but we failed to get a good view of him,
as he was in a sedan. Our attention was drawn to a
fine-looking man in a crimson robe, wearing a fine yellow
circular cap, and a handsome yellow mantle over all,
who rode on horseback and sat well; but he put his hand
404 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
on his nose as he passed us, lest his olfactory nerves
should be shocked, and so we missed a view of his
features. They had many carts laden with powder under
their charge. - -
The day following this we met the commander-in-
chief of the troops in Shan-si with all his paraphernalia.
He was a large, elderly man, of a grave and determined
aspect, with a good black beard. He rode in a cart, and
was attended by a large company of outriders. Two
horsemen brought up the rear, each having a box con-
taining arrows projecting from the top, bound across the
back like a knapsack: these arrows being the insignia
of the general.
On the 7th we visited the Yaou-ching, or the
residence of the family of the old Emperor Yaou, which
we missed on our way. It has no feature of interest,
except the site; the temple is Small and out of repair.
8th. Met a small cart with iron wheels, and on the
day previously found iron railings before a graveyard.
We got safely and speedily through the four “Heavenly
Gates " and over those terrible passes; this time rather
enjoying the excitement. We had reached our goal,
had been successful beyond expectation, and our books
were nearly all sold.
Having arrived on the 15th November at a large
village called Fu-ching-i, in Chih-li, we left the main
road, and made a short cut to Tien-tsin. As the days
were now short, we were up every day long before day-
light, and guided our carts by the stars; and not a few
FU-CHING-I.-KI-CHU.-LI–HIEN. 405
eerie hours were spent each morning, for the district
was not quite safe. The first day after leaving the main
road, the magistrate insisted on sending two soldiers to
accompany us as a guard; they went some distance,
then returned, and afterwards we had no more of these
“braves.” The country through which we passed was
in a measure Sandy, some places very much so, and not
very fertile; the prevailing trees were willows and dates.
At this season the whole village, men, women, and
children, had turned out, raking up the leaves and
withered grass for fuel; many being also engaged making
bricks. The change from Shan-si was great but plea-
Sant, as indicating proximity to Tien-tsin. That even-
ing, after dark, we made Ki-chu; but, next day being wet,
we were detained half a day. The people were preparing
for a great fair, to be held in a few days, viz. fifteenth
of the tenth moon. The city itself is dull and sparsely
peopled, but the southern suburbs are large and impor-
tant. The place is famous for “smoked fowls.”
Leaving about 1 A.M., we passed Pau-i-hien (30 li),
once a fine city, with marble pailows, but now in ruins,
and made Li-hien, 50 li from Ki-chu. This city
encloses a large area, and the walls are in good repair,
but there is little or no business done; the place is
full of large gardens and fields. Setting out early we
made Sen-chow-hien, a busy city on the great southern
highway. The western suburbs were alive with abomin-
able harlots, the most brazen-faced we have met in
China; they tried even to force their way into our
406 JOURNEY THROUGH CHIH-LI, SHAN-SI, ETC.
premises. Messrs. Hall and Innocent had a station
here for some time, but ultimately gave it up : and I
do not wonder at it.
18th.-Up before cock-crow; went through the
city, emerged at the north-east gate, and joined the
great road for Tien-tsin. Several other carts joined us,
and we went along over the level roads most merrily.
Slept that night at a village often visited by Mr. Lees,
and next forenoon reached Tien-tsin, where we found all
well, and gave thanks to God.
Thus we finished this long journey, which we had
looked forward to with some apprehension, but which
we have been enabled to complete with joy for the sake
of the cause, and with benefit to ourselves. We were
delivered from several imminent dangers, which we have
already described, and once were nearly involved in the
death of a child, who was passing with a bundle of straw
over his shoulder. The front mule seized the straw,
and as the boy stupidly held on to it, the animal, in
an instant, dragged him right before the wheels; had
it not been for a merciful Providence causing the shaft
mule to stop at the call of the driver, he might have
been killed, and the consequences would have been
most serious to us.
On this journey we had, on the whole, good food and
tolerable inns, which tended greatly to our strength for
work. In the matter of food we had not much variety;
it was chiefly mutton, but it was good, and we cheated
our palates into appetite by the semblance of change.
SATISFACTORY CONCLUSION OF JOURNEY. 407
One day it was mutton and scones and tea; the next
tea and Scones and mutton; the third scones and tea
and mutton, and so on ; sometimes we had beef, and
now and then a fowl. Our bed, for the most part, was
a door, which we took down for this purpose: for we
preferred the hard board to the cold brick “kang’’ and
the filth thereon accumulated.
On the whole, we got on most pleasantly, and shall
long look back with intense thankfulness and joy to our
Shan-si journey.
( 408 )
CHAPTER XIX.
JOURNEY THROUGH THE SOUTHERN AND CENTRAL
PORTIONS OF SHAN-TUNG.
Signs of Progress — Gold-dust Markets — Gold-washing — A Fair—
Gamblers’ Feats—Magnetic Ore—Self-sufficiency of the Citizens
of Whang-hien—Inn at Dzu-kiau—Soap-stone Mines—Marble
Quarry—Good Work at Kau-wang-shan—Gold and Precious
Stones—Hostile People — A Fracas—Lay of the Land—Un-
friendly Reception—Pleasant Country — The Mirage—Dining
al fresco—Attentive Hearers—Prosperous Villages—Graveyards—
Recovery of Baggage—Saltpetre and Theft—Mandarins in League
with Thieves—Extensive Table-lands—Vast Cavern—Hill of the
Seven Precious Things — Character of the Country—Water
Buffaloes — A Thief self-detected—Sulphurous Springs—Evil
Aspect of the People—Unsexed Women—The Yi-ho River—Ne-
glected Roads—Boulders—Troublesome Muleteer—Manufacture of
Paper—Mulberry-orchards—Pilgrims to Tu-ngan-foo—The Tai
Temple—Oldest Historical Hill in the World—Beggars—Chinese
Effrontery—Ruined Villages—The Capital of Shan-tung—Conver-
sation with a Mandarin—Flooded Road—Minerals—Glass-works—
Lime-burning—Tombs of two Famous Men—The old Capital—
Mohammedans and Romanists—Fairs—Sell our Books—Home.
WE had long looked forward to this journey with great
interest. First, our route lay through the finest part of
the province ; then we expected to see several renowned
cities, and that sacred hill of China which has been
famous for more than 4,000 years; but, above all, we
LAU-SZ-SHAN HILL. 409
rejoiced in the thought of carrying the Bible and the
Gospel into populous and important regions hitherto
untrodden by Protestant missionaries, and in many
parts not penetrated even by Roman Catholicism.
Signs of progress marked our setting out. For-
merly, owing to the badness of the roads, horseback, or
a mule-litter for ourselves and pack-mules for our
books, had been the only method available for us; but
now, the road having been improved by the authorities
at the port, we started from our own door in two Peking
carts, one heaped with Scriptures and books, and the
other packed with the same, leaving only room for a
few European articles of food, our bedding, and a place
where I could sit. The native assistant sat upon the
trams. Busy from daylight on March 7, 1867, we were
all ready about nine o’clock; and not without con-
siderable anxiety, but strengthened by the promises of
God, we started joyfully.
Crossing the Tong-shin Hill—so dear to us—passing
the dunes of Chu-ki, which threaten sooner or later to
overwhelm the village, through the straths of sand
which stretch in from the sea, our course was slow ;
but, having made the pleasant little city of Fu-shan-
hien, we quickened our pace, and dined at Kang-yew.
Here the road divides—one branch going to Tung-chow-
foo, and the other to Whang-hien and the west. We
took the latter, and soon were in sight of the Lau-SZ-shan
—a hill famous for its gold-yielding streams, asbestos,
and other minerals. As we drew near it, we passed
410 JOURNEY THIROUGH SHAN-TUNG.
the village of Ku-hien, now rising from the ruins in
which it had been laid by the rebels, and noted chiefly
as one of the small gold-dust markets of Shan-tung.
Here the road diverges into the bed of a stream, in
which we dragged our way slowly upwards to Liou-hang,
where we passed our first night. At this place we enter
the hilly district, and the country becomes yet more
pleasant. On the banks of the stream, we passed large
heaps of Sand, indicating the diligence of the gold-
washers. Our inn, though the best in the place, was a
very poor one ; the cart-road being new and the village
not yet having been marked out as a station ; but, no
doubt, ere many months pass, there will be new inns, as
the place stands at a very convenient distance for carts.
March 8th. Starting before dawn, we crossed
several hills, passed along an elevated plateau, and soon
came to the large village of Shin-dien. Here the
country-people were assembling in great numbers for
a fair, and there was a large company of gamblers'
tents. The rascals frequent this place in numbers, as
the village lies on the highway among the hills, a good
distance from any city. They reminded me of the
thimbleriggers who used to throng the roads in the
neighbourhood of Falkirk Tryst in the days of my
boyhood; and, strange to say, some of their tricks are
marvellously similar.
This village having been often visited by mission-
aries, we passed on, and halted at Yah-kia-tsun, a
small place on the western side of the hills. The
WHANG-HIEN.—SELF-SUFFICIENT PEOPLE. 411
scenery is varied, but the most interesting fact connected
with this quarter of the country is the existence of
coal and fine magnetic ore toward the north. We
have procured several specimens of the ore, which is
nearly pure, and there is reason to believe it abounds,
and must, sooner or later, command great attention.
Having dined, our way lay along a level, fertile
country, and at dusk we reached the busy and populous
city of Whang-hien. The citizens are not particularly
civil to foreigners; they say they don’t need our doctrine,
know more than we do, and are far superior to the best
and most intelligent of us; for they are denizens of the
“central flowery kingdom *—that nation of 1,000 gene-
rations—and we are outside barbarians, whose nature is
essentially low. Our grand inn was a yard fit for cattle,
and the room where we slept—one of the chief rooms of
the place—was a den inferior to what we use for a stable.
So much for the inherent and manifest superiority of
our hosts. But we did not trouble them much. Next
morning, the 9th, before dawn we were again in our
carts, rattling or rather shaken to bits over a road we
foreigners would be ashamed to have in our neighbour-
hood. The outside of the city was better than within
the walls, the highway through the fields being infinitely
preferable to their vilely paved streets. The American
Baptists have just succeeded in renting a house in the
main-street for a chapel. Success to them
To-day the country continued flat, but there were
hills on the south of us, and the soil was fertile. We
412 JOURNEY THROUGH SHAN-TUNG.
passed several large villages full of people, and met
numerous indications of material prosperity. We tried
to catch a glimpse of the seaport called Loong-kow, at
which a considerable trade is done with the South and
Manchuria; but failed, owing to the distance and flatness
of the country. We dined at Whang-shan-kwan, a
market-town, and then proceeded onwards, as we were
desirous of overtaking our friend Mr. Mills, who was to
journey with us part of the way, and whom we expected
to find at Whang-hien. We slept at Dzu-kiau, where
there was a good inn—for China. Our room was large,
airy, with a mud floor, one square table, two wooden
chairs, a frame with a mat over it for a bed, and plenty
of ventilation through chinks in the door and holes in
the paper windows; the hangings surpassed the finest
tapestry, but they were the work of spiders 1 Mr. Mills
had passed on and was at Lai-chow-foo, 60 li (18 miles)
farther on, and so we resolved to hasten on next morning
in order to find him; accordingly we were up at cock-
crow, and had the pleasure of overtaking our friend
about 11.30 A.M. We spent the day together pleasantly,
arranged our plans, and resolved to take the southern
road, as the other had been already gone over some
considerable distance by two friends during the previous
year.
March 11th. Early in the morning we went to see
the soap-stone mines, which lie on a hill about one and
a half miles from the city. We descended one of them
and found the soap-stone, not in a solid mass as we
SOAP-STONE MINES.–MARBLE QUARRY. 413
expected, but in flakes of all sizes lying one upon
another. These flakes are easily taken out, and the finest
kinds used for making the soap-stone ornaments so
renowned all over the country, whilst the inferior are
ground down and used for stucco. In answer to our
inquiries we found that the entire hill was composed of
this material, and we had ample proof of it; for it was
perforated in all directions with these mines, and we
found that many of the stones which formed the walls
of the houses and fields around were of a white greasy
nature, evidently the same as the stone found on the
hill, but of a coarser description. The mines had
narrow oblique passages not much wider than our body,
with landing-places every few yards, and we descended
and ascended in the same fashion as a sweep goes down
and up a chimney. The people only work the mines in
winter, when they have no crops to attend to, and when
they meet with water they leave the place, and open
another. The stone is light grey, and is dyed for
purposes of ornament.
A friend for whom we had waited not having arrived,
we set out about 12.30 noon. Our way lay nearly due
south; the roads excellent, and the country had the same
character as around Che-foo. A range of high hills rose
on our left hand, but the country on our right was com-
paratively level. Not long after starting we espied a white
belt on the side of the mountains, and soon discovered
that it was the marble quarry which has some notoriety
in the east of Shan-tung, and lies about one mile off the
414 JOURNEY THROUGH SHAN-TUNG.
road. The marble is white, but too soft to be very
durable; the strata are about fifty feet thick. The
natives use it for tombstones and a variety of purposes,
and it is very cheap at the quarry; a headstone for an
adult can be bought for 2,500 cash, or less than two
taels; and for a boy, 1,500 cash. The quarry is 40 li
from Lai-chow-foo, and 60 li from the seaport of Lai-
chow-foo, called Hia-miau-heu. Several slabs have been
procured by foreigners and have given satisfaction.
Though this quarry is renowned for the purity of its
marble, there are several other places where marble can
be procured. At the hill called Mu-shan, 25 li N. of
Tsi-hia, fine hard grey marble abounds, and at Tsu-kia-
kwang, 70 li S.E. of the same city, there is also a good
marble quarry, with an abundance of fine granite, of
several varieties, in different places in this part of the
province.
Passing the quarry we came to a stiff stony hill,
the only bad piece on the road to-day, and had to walk,
as the carts bounded from stone to stone. On the other
side lay the town of Kau-wang-shan, and here we had
the satisfaction of fairly beginning our work. We
preached, and sold a large number of books considering
the size of the place, and when darkness compelled us
to retire to our inn, the people followed us there to buy
more books.
The road next morning was very bad: at first Sandy
and winding, then hilly till we got to Ping-tu. The range
on the east still continued, affording us pleasant views.
GOLD AND PRECIOUS STONES. 415
Ping-tu is a small, square, compact city. The western
and eastern suburbs are comparatively large, especially
the former, where, also, the trade is greatest; but
there is not much business done. On the northern
side are several groves of cypress-trees, encircling high
tombs, which must belong to wealthy families; there
are also several old watch-towers standing like broken-
down sentries here and there around. This city is famous
for its gold. Before leaving Che-foo, we intended to visit
Kin-kia harbour and the city of Tsi-mi, but we found
that the trade and people had almost entirely departed
from the former, and as a visit to the latter would take
us a long distance out of our way, we left that visit
for another time.
The neighbourhood of Tsi-mi is renowned all over
the country for its precious stones, which are found in a
hill about 100 li due south of the city, which is crowned
with temples, and is the property of the priests. The
chief temple is called the Shang-ching-koong, and here
are great annual gatherings of pilgrims and fairs, at
which the stones are in great request. They are used
for all kinds of ornamental purposes, and many of them
make excellent spectacles (preservers), which may be
had of different colours.
Leaving Ping-tu, the country is at first fertile, but
afterwards sandy, then marshy, and thus it varies
onwards for many miles. Just at dusk we reached the
village of Lan-di, where we stayed for the night. There
was a “play” at this place, and as many country-people
416 JournEY THROUGH SHAN-TUNG.
were expected next day, Mr. Mills stayed, while I went
on to Kyau-chow. The country possessed the same
features as yesterday—if anything, the marshy ground
prevailing, and the rivers still flowed northward. About
thirty or forty li from Kyau-chow we crossed the branch
of a great canal which in former times formed the
means of communication between the east of Shan-
tung and Peking. Its terminus was the city of Lai-
yang, and from this point it ran on west by north to
Po-hing on the Ta-tsing-ho (now the Yellow River);
thence boats went up this river to Toong-chang, where
they entered the Grand Canal, and by this means grain
and tribute were conveyed to the capital. But it is now
entirely neglected and nearly dry : pools of water here
and there, and broken-down bridges, are all that remain
to tell of its former glory. It interested us especially
as an indication of the intelligence and vigour with
which China was once governed.
We arrived at Kyau-chow about 1 P.M., worn out
and wearied with our long drive. This city was in
former times the most important centre of trade in the
east of Shan-tung; it received its supplies from the
south by sea, and distributed goods all over the country.
The people appeared rather hostile to foreigners; win-
cing under decreasing trade perhaps. They called us
all sorts of names; and One man, partially drunk, was
exceedingly abusive. On one occasion, while engaged
at my work by myself, the crowds pressed on me most
forcibly ; I tried in vain to get them to stand back, and,
DISAGREEABLE POSITION.— KAU-MI. 417
unfortunately, against my rule, pushed a man rather
rudely. He immediately drew a knife and put on a face
inhuman and fiendish in the extreme. I lifted the stool
on which the colporteur had been sitting, and there we
stood at bay for a few moments. I appealed to the
people, saying that I had no intention to strike him ; that
they had seen the whole circumstance and could judge;
they instantly took my part and quieted the man.
We were told that coal is to be found outside the
east gate of this city, and expressing our doubts,
were positively assured of the Veracity of the statement;
and now, having been in Yi-chow, where good coal is
procured in abundance, and observed the similarity of
the two districts, we are more inclined to believe it.
The people are not allowed to open a pit, and so they
get the coal they use from the south of Wei-hien. The
city has been described in a previous chapter.
16th. We left Kyau-chow at break of day, and were
some time ere we emerged from the large suburbs. The
country rose gradually; the soil was sandy for several
miles, but became more fertile as we proceeded westwards.
The streams all ran northwards; which surprised us, as
we were so near the other side of the promontory: it
shows that the country towards the south must be very
elevated, and the descent towards the sea somewhat steep.
Arriving at Kau-mi about 11 A.M. we found a large
fair, and did not a little work. The people were, on the
whole, much more civil than at Kyau-chow ; yet there
was a spice of bitterness in them too. A shopkeeper
WOL. I. 27
418 JOURNEY THROUGH SHAN-TUNG.
got a book from me to look at, and afterwards flung it
at my head; he may have done this from not being
able to get near me, owing to the crowd; but I am
afraid there was spite in the act. The city is a respect-
able one of the third class; the walls are in good repair
and the southern suburbs large. Leaving about three
o'clock the same day, we drove right through the city,
selling books on our way, and then turned south-west
towards Chu-ching. The country looked much better,
and there was a magnificent braird of wheat. Having
travelled 30 li, the sun set, but as it was a beautiful
moonlight night, and we were most anxious to reach
Chu-ching early next day (Saturday), we pushed on and
spent the night at a village called Yueh-kia-kow. But
our carters defeated our object; for they did not feed
their mules during the night, and consequently it was
8 A.M. before we got away. This resulted from a com-
bination between them and the muleteers, who were
angry at being made to go a few miles in the dark on
the previous evening. These carters and muleteers are
incorrigible scamps.
The country on towards Chu-ching is remarkably
pleasant—a fine, undulating country. Here we met the
first flowers of spring, and saw broom in blossom
in several places; holly hedges too became common
around houses and gardens; and pleasant sights they
were. Just before coming to Chu-ching we had to cross
a broad belt of heavy sand, which tested the strength
of our mules. Passing it, we came on the Wei-ho
THE MIRAGE.-CHU-CHING. 419
River (even here a comparatively large river for the dis-
trict), which flows northward, and debouches on the
Gulf of Pe-chih-li. We saw several places which had
every appearance of having coal beneath, in that black,
soft, slaty rock which is generally found near coal strata.
To-day we saw the mirage, which greatly interested
us on our journey. Not long after starting, and onwards
to near Chu-ching, lakes and rivers, beautiful bridges
and islands covered with trees, and picturesque land-
Scapes diversified with ponds and water-courses, danced
before our eyes the whole morning. Sometimes these
appearances were extremely delusive ; on one occasion,
Mr. Mills said, “There is a river certainly,” but in a
few minutes it resolved itself into an “airy nothing: ”
the groves formed the abutments of the seeming
bridges, and, for some time, one could hardly doubt
the reality of the illusion. This beautiful phenomenon
is very common in the level plains of this and the
neighbouring provinces; and journeying in such circum-
stances is like travelling in fairy land.
On our arrival at Chu-ching, we found a great
market, and immediately commenced work; Mr. Mills
went to one place, and I to another. After the
bustle and sale had a little subsided, we called for
dinner, and ate it in the street, where we sat with our
books, to the great amusement of the onlookers and
annoyance of ourselves; but there was no help for it,
as we wished to make the most of our time, next day
being Sunday. In the course of the evening we caused
420 JOURNEY THROUGH SHAN-TUNG.
our books to be carried to different places, and so
overtook the greater part of the city.
We rested during the Sunday morning, but after
dinner went out and preached here and there in every
quarter of the city and suburbs. The people listened
to us with much interest, and we had the great satis-
faction of disseminating saving truth among the masses
of that district. The city is an important one ; it is
three li long by one li broad, has five gates, and is full
of pailows and fine large dwelling-houses, like its neigh-
bour Kyau-chow. The eastern suburb is pretty large,
but the business is chiefly done in the western suburbs,
where there are a great many large shops. Important
fairs are held here, and it stands next to Kyau-chow
in this quarter of Shan-tung.
On Monday morning we went to a fair at King-chi,
75 li to north-east, where we had good success ; and
then, on Tuesday, to another fair at Po-lung-shan,
where there were only a few people, and we did. almost
nothing. On our way to King-chi we passed through
several large villages, in which were pailows and arches,
and indications of wealth and prosperity; the country
was well watered and extremely fertile. We saw some
fine graveyards, with grotesque stone figures of tigers,
horses, men, &c. King-chi is more like a large scat-
tered village than a city ; and, indeed, is not a hien,
but only a dependency on Kau-mi. A considerable
quantity of Saltpetre is produced from the soil in the
neighbourhood.
THIEVES AND MANDARINS. 421
While engaged at our work, an incident occurred
which throws some light upon the customs of the
country and the method of government. The clothes
and bedding, &c. of our colporteur, which were fastened
to the back of the cart, were stolen, and we did not
discover the theft until we had finished our work and
had started on our way. We immediately went back,
sought out the officer who had charge of the “fair,”
told him of our loss, and threatened to go at once and
inform the mandarins unless the articles were forth-
coming. He tried to put us off—“There were so many
people all around, how could he get them 2 º’ But
seeing we were quite resolved to make a case of it, and
were acquainted with the practices of the thieves, he at
last said he would try and get them ; and in less than
half-an-hour we heard a shout, and there came a man
panting and breathless, carrying our lost luggage: not
one article was missing ! The custom is, that the
mandarins have an understanding with the thieves ;
the thieves on their part agree to sell nothing until a
certain time elapses, and to deliver up stolen goods if
the authorities press them ; and the mandarins, on
their part—for a consideration—agree not to molest
them if they can help it. I have known of other cases
of this kind. A few months ago the guest of a merchant
in Che-foo, a friend of ours, had his case of jewellery
and papers stolen one evening when he was at dinner.
Some days after I met him and assured him that the
articles would be quite safe, and not melted down, nor
422 JOURNEY THROUGH SHAN-TUNG.
in any way injured for some weeks, and advised the
apprehension of a suspicious character who was about :
he was seized on the following day, and that night the
merchant was taken to a house outside the settlement,
where he got every article that had been taken away.
The place called Po-lung-shan, where the fair just
referred to was held, was a small conical hill, and from
its summit we could see a long distance. The country
looks like one huge garden; no hedges, no walls, only
foot-paths and cart-roads for landmarks, and every place
under cultivation. Not a hill was visible except the
range towards the south running south-west, and we
were assured that the country possessed the same fea-
tures north as far as the Gulf of Pe-chih-li, no hills inter-
vening to break the fertility. The soil can hardly be
called alluvial, but is rather table-land, with a gentle
slope dipping toward the north; thus we have a large
tract of level country in the heart of the province. If
the reader takes a map and draws a line from Lai-chow
south-east to Ping-tu, thence on to Lai-yang, then near
Kin-kia harbour, afterwards south-west past Tsi-mi on
to Kyau-chow, thence by Kau-mi on to Chu-ching, then
north, passing to the west of King-chi, Ngan-kiu, past
Wei-hien to the sea, and calculates the number of square
miles in that area, he will have some idea of its extent.
Going back to Chu-ching on Wednesday evening,
we set out for the south-west next morning. The
country looked most beautiful, like a vast garden, and
the mirage again delighted us with its panoramic visions.
A HILL FORT.-A FAMOUS CAVE. 423
This continued for about thirteen miles, when we came
to a fair, and at once went to work. Immediately after
leaving the village we crossed a low range of hills and
reached a level fertile plateau; crossing this, we again
encountered hills, and afterwards found a second plateau.
Beyond this are higher hills, which we also crossed,
and then descended into a fine plain, in which lay the
village called Kwan-sae, where we rested for the night.
Several things interested us to-day. A range of high
hills lay on our left, running south-west as our course
lay; some of them were very lofty, and one had a
strong fortification on its summit, which consisted of an
inner and an outer wall of considerable strength, and
looked impregnable to ordinary Chinese artillery. This
is a place of refuge for farmers in times of trouble, and
such fortifications are very common in North China.
At the base of the mountains is a famous cave; several
persons have penetrated it to the distance of 8 li,
when water and bad air have forced them to return.
As might be expected, many stories are current regard-
ing its use and inmates, and it would be worth while
to explore it, as fossils and fossilized animals might
be found in its caverns, as is the case in similar places.
The last range of hills to-day proved to be the water-
shed, for we found the stream in the valley and all the
rivers afterwards flowing southwards.
The hills just referred to had every appearance of
containing minerals, and on inquiring of the innkeeper,
we found our conjectures correct. He told us that 10 li
424 JOURNEY THROUGH SHAN-TUNG.
South there was a hill famous for metals, called the
Chi-pau-shan, or hill of the “seven precious things,”
which yielded gold, silver, copper, tin, lead, iron and
coal; that the metals were often found together, and
that in Some places the silver was nearly pure, yielding
eight parts in ten of ore. He further told us that at
present no one was allowed to work the mines, but that
up to the close of the Ming dynasty, A.D. 1650, they
had been worked. We sent out our assistant to ask
the neighbours, in a quiet way, about this, and he
found the circumstance well known ; two other persons
having corroborated the report. He was also told that
coal existed within a mile of the village on the east side.
We also found the natives spinning silk here, as else-
where on our journey southwards.
March 22nd. Up at 3 A.M., and started in the
moonlight. Shortly after leaving the inn we began to
ascend, and soon had to dismount, owing to the badness
of the road and rugged character of the hills. The
hills were conical, bleak, and uninviting, a solitary ash
alone relieved the eye now and then ; but in some of
the valleys we found clumps of pine-trees. The rocks
which cropped up to the surface were chiefly sandstone,
slate, and clays, and dipped now in this direction and
now in that, in keeping with the conical form of the
hills and indicating their volcanic origin. Having jour-
meyed six or seven miles, we came down on another of
these strange narrow fertile plateaux, and crossing it for
a distance of four or five miles, we again ascended ; but
FERTILE COUNTRY. —WATER BUFFALOES. 425
only to descend to another of these level belts of country.
We breakfasted at a village called Chau-hien, a place
much injured by the late rebels, which is 45 li from
Ku-chow (wrongly written Lu-chow on our map). From
thence the country is level and fertile, and the road
excellent. We arrived at Ku-chow about 2 P.M., and
had time to do a considerable amount of work. This
city is one of some importance; the walls are in good
repair; there is a fine large moat full of water all round
the place, with plenty of fish, with which the town is
supplied. The people appear well-to-do, well housed,
well clothed, and well fed. The rivers all run south-
wards; the district is well watered and well wooded, the
ash and willow prevailing. We found here those strange
water-buffaloes which are so common south of the Yang-
tze-kiang. This speaks of the marshy nature of the
ground and the growth of rice, these animals being
almost indispensable in the production of water-grown
rice.
On the 23rd March we were up before daylight.
The road was excellent, the country very fine, and the
soil red from gritty red sandstone rocks. There were
several fine pailows of granite bordering the road.
Having done 40 li (12 miles) we began to ascend, and
for a considerable distance our road lay along the ridge
of a low range of hills, whence it was pleasant to see the
farmers at their work in the valleys on either side of us.
By-and-by we descended into an undulating country,
not thickly peopled, but yielding average crops. We
426 Journey THROUGH SHAN-TUNG.
dined at a small inn 95 li from Ku-chow—a good morn-
ing's ride, and then set out again. We had hardly
emerged from the village before rather an odd circum-
stance occurred. The carter was pushing along in the
face of a strong wind, cracking his long whip and going
on most spiritedly, when suddenly his clothes took fire :
he disappeared behind the cart in an instant, threw off
his clothes and buried them in the earth. The rascal
had, I believe, stolen some of my matches from the cart
when I was at dinner, and stuffed them into his girdle ;
hence the catastrophe. Well was it for him that his
clothes could come off so easily; for we had some diffi-
culty in putting the fire out : his coat was padded with
cotton-wool, and hence, a spark remaining unextin-
guished, whenever it was caught by the wind, the fire
rekindled, as it several times did. Most amusing it was
to see him sitting on the shafts all the afternoon as if
on nettles, every now and then starting and looking to
see if he was not again on fire. We made up his loss
at the close of the journey. From the village on to near
Yi-chow-foo the country continued rolling, gravelly, and
not very fertile. We passed a place where there are
sulphurous springs, not very warm and not much fre-
quented; nothing to those in the east of Shan-tung,
and there was no house to bathe in : the water rises and
gathers into pools.
On Sunday the 24th we were thankful for the rest of
this hallowed day. Having caught a severe cold, I was
confined to the inn and unable to preach, but Mr. Mills
UNSEXED WOMEN.—THE YI-HO RIWER. 427
supplied my lack of service. The village was not a very
safe place to lodge in, as the rebels, or rather robbers,
who came north and on to Che-foo, and who murdered
Messrs. Holmes and Parker, were from this neighbour-
hood, and the people had an evil, cut-throat look. They
rather avoided us, and seemed afraid lest we were on
an errand of vengeance ; we assured them of our good
intentions, but only, I suppose, to confirm them in their
suspicions. We were told that the mandarins of Yi-
chow-foo were making amends for their past neglect, and
were dragging supposed former robbers from their homes
and slaughtering them by the hundred.
The women of this district were different in their
habits from the people in general, and unpleasantly so ;
they served in the inn like men, and went about in the
most open way, just as Manchu women. As a conse-
quence they were stronger and better complexioned, but
rude and disagreeable ; they had small feet, yet not the
smallest size.
As we approached Yi-chow-foo on the following
morning we found the apricot-trees in full blossom, but
not one leaf on them. Fruit-trees of several varieties
abounded in this locality. Just before reaching the city
we had to cross the Yi-ho, a good-sized river, which we
forded at a place where it spreads out in the sand, a
man leading the mules and piloting our way. This
river rises at the Ngai-shan in the centre of the pro-
vince, receives several streams, runs southwards, and
pours its waters into a lake on the north of the Grand
428 JOURNEY THROUGH SHAN-TUNG.
Canal. Like other streams in the province it bears
down tremendous quantities of sand in its course. We
were told that flat-bottomed boats could go down all the
way to the Grand Canal; indeed, there can be no doubt
that, after the rains, there would be no difficulty in
navigating such craft. We met good coal on its way
eastwards, and on inquiry found that it was abundant in
the neighbourhood.
We found a large fair in the city, which was for-
tunate for us, as it enabled us to do good work during
all Monday and part of Tuesday. The city is large and
well filled with houses; the great north and south street
has a number of large shops, indicating a good country
business, but not an extensive distributing trade. The
walls and gates are high, strong, and in good repair.
The southern suburbs are extensive; and there is a
mosque in this quarter of the city, and several hundred
families of Mohammedans.
Leaving this city, our road lay across a river and
through fields of thick fine sand, which was extremely
trying to both men and beasts. Emerging from this
we came to alluvial soil, which continued for a few miles,
when the country began to rise, and the road became
stony, rocky, and the ground barren. After dinner we
found the road still more hilly and dangerous. We passed
after sunset a strong granite bridge; the stones were
from 15 feet long by 16 in. thick and two feet broad.
This spoke of former greatness, but now of poverty and
carelessness, for it was in such a condition that there
WATCH-TOWERS.—BOULDERS. 429
was danger in crossing it. We were again on one of
the great highways of China—that which goes from
Peking to Soo-chow, &c. vid Tsing-kiang-pu, where
travellers obtain boats for the South. The road was not
much better than the lesser cart-roads, the chief dis-
tinguishing features being the watch-towers every 10 li,
guard-houses every 5 li, better inns and greater traffic.
After leaving Yi-chow-foo we found soldiers in the
guard-houses, but as we proceeded they were fewer, and
by-and-by these houses were all empty, as is commonly
the case in other districts. The recent proximity of
the rebels and the slaughter of the captives had led the
authorities to place guards in the neighbourhood.
Next morning we started early ; at first the road
was good, but soon became like that of yesterday. It
lay along the top of a low ridge of hills, with a high
range on either hand. These ranges are very peculiar,
being composed of conical hills of greater or lesser size,
the sides having perpendicular ridges running round
them. Many of the hills and valleys are covered with
immense boulders. The bridges were once good, but
now are quite out of repair. Flocks of goats and sheep
with great heavy tails were numerous on the hills.
To-day we met wheelbarrows laden with coke and
red paint and glassware from Yen-shih-ching. We dined
at a place 45 li from Mung-yin-hien. Passing onwards
15 li, we entered a fertile valley with a fine road, which
continued all the way to that city.
28th. The book muleteer tried to raise a disturb-
430 Journey THROUGH SHAN-TUNG.
ance to-day about his money. He was a rude man,
having just sufficient brains to know the multiplication-
table, and passions strong enough to scream when he
did not obtain the fulfilment of his demands. The
night previous he went round the inn-yard throwing up
his arms like a wild man ; one of the carters, however,
very unexpectedly became mediator, and the question
was soon settled. Our road lay over low hills, with
mountains on both sides, till we came to Sin-tai, when
we entered a valley. Sin-tai is a small and empty city ;
the suburbs, however, are respectable, and we disposed of
a good number of books. Shortly after leaving Mung-
yin-hien (wrongly spelt Mong-in-kyen) we came in sight
of a strange, high, conical hill, crowned with a few pine-
trees and temples, which kept in view the whole morn-
ing. It is called the Ching-yu-shan, and there is a
festival held here after the fair at Tai-shan is over.
29th. Up at 3.40; road stony; crossed two
ridges, on which were huge boulders; made 90 li, and
dined at Tse-kia-djang. Here we found all the walls of
the houses covered with paper drying and bleaching ;
it is made extensively here for the paper-money which
is used by the pilgrims in their worship at Tai-shan.
It is of the coarsest kind, made of wheat-straw, mixed
with old ropes cut down and mashed together. Here,
too, as at Sin-tai, we found coal, which it was said came
from Lai-wu, and it is evident that the hills on the north
have it in abundance. To-day we passed many mulberry-
trees, and several mulberry-orchards. They make yellow
PILGRIMS TO THE TAI TEMPLE. 431
and white silk in this region. Leaving this place,
we again entered a fine plain with an excellent road, and
by-and-by crossed a branch of the famous Wun River,
flowing southwards. This river is classical, and was
used to supply the Grand Canal. We reached Tai-ngan-
foo early in the afternoon, but found all the good inns
occupied, and had to put up at a very wretched place.
Next day we attended the great fair in the large
temple called the Tai Temple, and sold not a few books.
Here we remained four days, and had some good oppor-
tunities of observing the character of the pilgrims and
the place. The pilgrims begin to arrive at the Chinese
new year, and continue visiting till the 18th of the 4th
moon; during the second month they are most nume-
rous, when there is a continual stream from all quarters.
They do not appear to be confined to one class of Chinese:
all descriptions of people, high and low, official and non-
official, men and women, were found there, with a large
proportion of old women : it was amusing to see them
carried in their chairs, their husbands, or sons, or both,
trudging behind them. This would be a grand place for
a mission station during the first portion of the year;
and if one society could not occupy it, several might
unite, so as always to have two missionaries there.
The city of Tai-ngan-foo is not very large for a
departmental city, nor does there appear to be much
business independent of that caused by the pilgrims.
The walls are well built and the gates strong and in
good repair; temples are numerous, the chief among
432 JOURNEY THROUGH SHAN-TUNG.
them being a very large and fine one called the Tai
Temple. It covers many square acres in the north-
west corner of the city, and is enclosed by a strong wall
almost as high and good as the wall of the city, having
several gates. Inside it is divided into three com-
partments, each of them containing numerous tablets,
some very large and striking, and many old cypress-
trees. The chief building stands in the centre; it is a
fine two-storied, somewhat elegant pavilion, and within
it stands the great idol. The walls are covered with
paintings representing imperial processions, including
all the grades of mandarins, footmen, horse-guards,
white elephants, camels, his Majesty on a fine cart, and
horsemen galloping along with all the haste, madness,
and fury generally evinced on such occasions.
The area of the southern half of the temple was
occupied by rows of tents, in which were displayed all
sorts of trinkets; and further on showmen were doing
their best to amuse the visitors and fill their own
pockets: there were also Punch and Judy and all kinds
of “merry-go-rounds.” This city has large suburbs
like the most of Chinese cities; the western and
southern being very extensive : in the former most of
the trade is done. Towards the west are many small
temples and two pagodas; and at the outside of the
southern suburbs are two altars, said to have been
built respectively by the Soong dynasty and the Tang
dynasty, on which were offered sacrifices to the Hill.
But the city and the suburbs and all the surround-
ASCENT OF A SACRED HILL. 433
ings are subservient to the Hill, which is reasonably
thought to be the oldest historical hill in the world.
It lies on the north of the city and forms one of a group
of noble mountains, but towers above them all, seeming
as if keeping solitary watch over all the country, like
some ancient warder always at his post. It is referred
to in the Shoo-king, or historical classic, as the first
hill visited by the Emperor Shun, and where he offered
sacrifices to Heaven; which there is synonymous with
God. The passage runs thus: “In the second year
(of his reign) he made a tour of inspection as far east
as Tai-tsung (or Tai-shan), where he presented a burnt-
offering to Heaven and sacrificed in order to the hills
and rivers.” “ This took place about 2254 B.C., and
from that time to the present, this hill is referred to in
Chinese history, and has been constantly visited by
pilgrims. *
We resolved to ascend to the top, and having hired
chairs, which the pilgrims use for that purpose, we
set out very early, anticipating a day's rest from work,
and much enjoyment; but we were sadly disappointed.
The road lay through the city, out of the north gate,
and almost immediately on emerging the ascent began ;
we found the path a well-paved but narrow highway,
much more respectable than we expected. As it got
steeper, there were broad well-built stairs to facilitate
progress, the stairs becoming more numerous and steeper
as we ascended ; the sides of the roads in many places
* Legge's Shoo-king, part ii. chap. iii. p. 8.
WOL. I. 28
434 JOURNEY THROUGH SHAN-TUNG.
were planted with cypress. We had some scruples at first
in allowing men to carry us up such places, but seeing
scores at this work and finding that the men were ac-
customed to it, we sat contentedly : they carried us,
walking at a measured pace, one on each side of the
chair. º
The road was beset by beggars, men and women of
all ages, with all kinds of sores; some with feet rotting
off, some with withered legs, others with diseases of
repulsive appearance. But there was a greater nuisance:
numbers lying in the middle of the road, indeed
at every few yards, some apparently half dead, with
their heads resting on stones, others knocking their
foreheads on the pavements until there was a great
blue bump on them. Young, well-favoured women
with young children were there; old withered hags
with diseased and hale children were there; and bundles
of dirty rags appeared every now and then, out of which
protruded a tuft of grey hair, telling of some human
being beneath : there were regular beds full of children,
with surrounding abominations, some feigning disease ;
and we could not get up without being carried right
over the wretches.
Having proceeded a few miles it began to rain, and
we took shelter in a tea-house on the road-side. Here
was a nunnery, and the nuns came out and invited us in :
of course we did not enter. Setting out again, the
beggars were less numerous, though there was a party of
them every hundred yards or so. Some of them had holes
CROWDS OF BEGGARS AND LAZARS. 435
dug out of the side of the hills, others had big stones
piled on end for houses, a few had small but
regular-built stone huts, and there were some who had
walled up the arches of bridges, and lived there: I never
saw such painful sights before. Spring was covering
nature with beauty; the valleys and road-side were full
of apricot and peach trees in blossom ; the torrent was
dashing over the rocks at our side, and everything looked
pleasant but man, who was there literally a sore on the
face of nature. + *
The rain having ceased we again ascended : the way
became steeper and steeper still, and more and more
interested did we become in the scenery; but the rain
came on much heavier, and we again had recourse to a
tea-shop. There we waited two hours, when, as there
was no appearance of its clearing, we wrapped our
waterproofs around us, and resolved to try the hill. On
we went, higher and higher; the beggars had betaken
themselves to their dens and caves in the earth, but the
wretches sometimes came rushing out into the wet, and
bowed down before us for alms. The rocks became yet
more rugged, and on them we found names of visitors
inscribed, cut out sometimes in huge characters. Grander
and grander became the rocks and scenery as we
ascended, but stronger and stronger blew the wind, and
heavier poured the rain, until at last, having climbed
some almost perpendicular stairs and reached one of the
summits, the wind nearly blew us down. Seeing it
would be dangerous to go farther, we turned to descend.
436 JOURNEY THROUGH SHAN-TUNG.
We had, however, the satisfaction of getting up two-
thirds of the way, far beyond the place tradition tells us
Confucius reached; and had seen the grand scenery and
the road, stairs, bridges, and temples on this hill, which
speak of the ancient power, riches, and intelligence of this
wonderful people. Our descent was rapid enough in
some places. The men had for the most part taken
the herd-boy's method of keeping their clothes dry.
- Before leaving Tai-ngan-foo we had a good illustra-
tion of the effrontery and complaisance of the Chinese
in the person of our landlord. The night before starting
he sent in an enormous charge for his rooms, which
somewhat amazed us, and we asked the servant if his
master thought we were out of our senses? Somewhat
nonplussed he went away, and returning informed
us that each city had its own customs and charges, and
that the bill was a very moderate one ; for they could
never think of cheating such excellent teachers. We
told him we knew as well about the customs of the
country as he did, and refused payment. At last
appeared mine host in propriá persona, as we were busy
arranging our books and packing our boxes. On
entering he looked round most benignly on us all, and,
not venturing to say anything to us, he addressed
himself to the colporteurs. “Is this that worthy
teacher Mr. W — ?”—pretending not to know
me. Receiving an affirmative reply, he proceeded :
“Does he imagine I would ever think of overcharging
him 2 Money is of no importance to me : I would far
ATTEMPTS AT IMPOSITION.—PILGRIMS. 437
rather give it all to him as a present than annoy
him in the smallest degree.” And then he went on in
a strain of fulsome compliment. At last we could bear it
no longer, and told him we were busy and would thank
him to allow us quietly to finish our work; that we
had no idea he was such a good man, and we would
gladly accept of his kindness; but if he repented of his
generosity and made out a decent bill, we would pay him.
He persisted in remaining, and at last we had almost to
shut the door on him ; when a message came that he
consented to our terms. Next morning, however, another
small difficulty arose; the carters were in arms: “they had
not got sufficient money, they would not stir,” &c. &c.
But having threatened them with the mandarins, we got
off about eight o'clock.
The first part of the road had been paved with huge
blocks of granite two centuries ago and not touched
since, and one may imagine what a pleasant drive we
had. After this, and just as we were congratulating
ourselves that we should enjoy some rest to our bones,
we entered the bed of a river; this being the imperial
highway, we had no alternative but to endure the .
inconvenience, and it sadly tested our equanimity, for
it continued nearly all day. As we went on we met
innumerable pilgrims on their way to the fair; the road
was infested with beggars of every description, nearly in
as great numbers as on the hill itself. Hills were on
both hands, having the peculiar perpendicular belts which
characterize those to the South-east of this ; a high
438 JOURNEY THROUGH SHAN-TUNG.
curious hill was in front of us all day. Tai-ngan
appears to be the water-shed, for after passing this city
we found all the streams running northwards.
April 4th. To-day the road continued bad, the
same as yesterday. We found the villages broken down
and miserable; they had for the most part been built
of mud and stones, and were in many instances in ruins.
When we came within 40 li of Tsi-man-foo we left
the Peking Road and turned towards the north-east.
The road was as muddy as the former was stony, so
there was not much gained by the change.
We reached Tsi-nan-foo, the capital of Shan-tung,
about 2 P. M., and immediately commenced work. We
sold a great number of books outside the west gate ;
afterwards we entered the city and sold many more, till
the darkness caused us to retire. Next day we went
over the whole city, and sold a great many books ; we
were the first Protestant missionaries to visit the place;
although, alas ! this is no extraordinary thing in our
experience. There are here about 2,000 Mohammedan
families and two mosques. The Mohammedans are more
straightforward and honest than the Chinese, and much
cleanlier; and it is no small joy to get to an inn kept
by one of them. They also appear more open to
receive the truth than others, and it is quite possible
they may be among the first to accept the tidings
of salvation. The Romanists are also very numerous
in the western suburbs: they have one or two chapels,
and are getting a small cathedral erected within
CONVERSATION WITH A MANDARIN. 439
the city proper. One of the mandarins called upon
us during the second evening of our stay ; he sent
his card, and was extremely pleasant; he was also
intelligent—much more so than I expected. He mani-
fested a tolerable knowledge of geography, and of the
present position of affairs in the world; asked about
India, about our Queen and Parliament ; spoke of
Russia, railways, telegraphs, &c. Referring to religion,
he said that every kingdom had its sage, and that it
behoved the people to listen to the instructions of their
respective holy men; that Arabia had Mohammed, India
had Buddha, China Confucius, and my honourable
kingdom had Jesus; that they were all only different
forms of the worship of Heaven ; thus all were true,
and none to be despised. We pointed out the differ-
ence ; telling him that Jesus was the Son of God, sent
to be the Teacher and Saviour of the world; that He was
infinitely pre-eminent over all, and that all should hear
His words and obey him. After some further conversa-
tion on kindred topics he took his leave, and we parted
good friends. -
6th. Up at daybreak. On our way through the
city, in the early morning, when everything was com-
paratively quiet, we were again struck with its size and
population. It lies only three or four miles from the
Yellow River, and may become yet more important.
Emerging from the eastern suburbs, we found two
hills on the north standing solitary and sentry-like, one
of them almost a perfect cone. The country gradually
440 JOURNEY THROUGH SHAN-TUNG.
rises as you proceed eastward, but continues very damp :
afterwards it gets drier, but again, near Chang-kui,
the road was flooded. We had hills on the south all
day; towards evening a range crossed our path, and
compelled us to turn northwards.
7th. Sunday; stayed at Chang-kui, a large walled
city, but containing comparatively few people. The
eastern suburbs are large, and have likewise a good
wall round them.
8th. Up at four o'clock. The roads were good and
the scenery pleasant for twenty li; after that they
became full of water, and for miles it was like driving
through the bed of an old canal. We passed through
many orchards of mulberry-trees, indicating a large silk-
producing district. We dined at Tui-ping, a large
empty city, containing some fine pailows. The roads
still full of water: it would appear as if they were the
drains for the whole country round. In the afternoon
we arrived at the famous distributing town called Chow-
tswun. Here we came upon the track visited by two
American missionaries last year, and consequently,
though there was a fair, the people manifested no
curiosity either in reference to ourselves or our books.
9th. To-day we made for the Lau-foo-hoh valley,
so renowned for coal, glass, &c. The road lay across
low-lying hills, until we came to Chi-chwen, when we
entered the valley. We passed the city without work-
ing, as we wished to be present on the market-day,
which took place on the 11th, and so pushed on to
MANUFACTORIES OF GLASS, ETC. 441
Po-shan-hien. Reaching the city early in the after-
noon, and being the first foreigners in foreign dress
ever there, we had tremendous crowds and an excellent
sale. The mandarins were not very civil, and insisted
on our leaving the city and doing our work outside;
we complied, as we did not wish to make any disturb-
ance. Officers watched us during our stay here.
Po-shan-hien is finely situated at the end of the
valley, and faces the north. The hills on the south are
girded with a high wall to defend them from the southern
robbers; those on the east and west are fringed with
willows and mulberry-trees, and crowned by the sombre
cypress and still more sombre tombs. These hills are
exceedingly rich in minerals: coal-pits, yielding ex-
tremely good coal, are found in all directions. On the
south of the city are rocks which, pulverized and smelted
with saltpetre, produce that beautiful glass which is
distributed all over China. We found them also making
sulphate of iron, red paint, and a great variety of
earthenware. Nearly all the manufactories are in the
suburbs called Yen-shih-ching, which are extremely busy
and surrounded by a strong wall. These suburbs lie in
the east, and are separated from the city proper by a
pleasant stream, which waters the valley, and flows on
enlarging, till uniting with another rivulet, it forms the
Siau-tsing-ho, and falls into the Gulf of Pe-chih-li.
11th. Early this morning we went to see the glass-
works; and though we found the workmen extremely
jealous, we managed to see the whole procedure and to
442 JOURNEY THROUGH SHAN-TUNg.
obtain specimens of the sand and the various kinds of
workmanship. Starting about eleven o’clock, we arrived
at Chi-chwen in time for the fair, but did not sell nearly
so many books as we expected ; the officials were rude,
shut the city gates, and would not permit us to enter,
So we did what we could outside.
Next day proceeding eastwards, we found the people
on both sides of the river making great quantities of lime
from the stones in the channel, as we had also observed
in another stream on the preceding day. They used coal
to burn the stones, which shows how plentiful and cheap
it must be. Yesterday and to-day, and all over this
district, we again saw innumerable mulberry-trees.
Emerging from the valley, we found the roads literally
drains for the fields, and the mules had terrible work
dragging the carts through the mud and water : near
Chang-hien the way became almost impassable. At this
place we dined, and joined the great road to Che-foo,
which we had left at Chang-kui for the Lau-foo-hoh
valley. This was a great comfort, for the inns, even in
the busy cities we had visited, were horrible ; that at
Po-shan-hien, a city where they boast of selling as many
products as fill a peck of gold per diem, was intoler-
able : the best room in the inn there was only fit for a
coal-cellar.
That night we slept at a town where, there are the
tombs of two famous men. The first is Hwan of Tze,
who flourished b.c. 683-642, and who is repeatedly
referred to in the Chinese Classics. He was Prince of
ANECDOTE OF CONFUCIUS.—TSING-CHOW-FOO. 443
the district now called Tsing-chow-foo. Confucius said
“he was upright and not crafty,” in contra-distinction
to Wan of Tsin, who “was crafty and not upright.”
The other tomb is that of the Duke King, who was also
Governor of Tse. He lived in the time of Confucius,
and was rather a weak Prince, and overshadowed by his
Ministers. Confucius visited him in his thirty-sixth
year, and being asked by the Duke about government,
gave the following laconic answer: “There is govern-
ment when the Prince is Prince, and the Minister is
Minister, when the father is father, and the son is
Their tombs are only large mounds, and not
far from the road, attesting the Veracity of Chinese
history.
Approaching Tsing-chow-foo, the old capital of the
province, we found the country fine, roads paved, and
everything indicating former grandeur. There are here
some 4,000 to 5,000 Mohammedans, and two mosques,
one in the city, and one in the eastern suburbs. Our
butcher here was also a Mahommedan, and gave us a good
deal of information. Romanists are very numerous in the
neighbourhood; and we were told there are from ten to
fifteen Romanist villages on the north of the city. Here
we found little or no demand for our books, owing to
the visit of our friends previously referred to ; accord-
ingly, we did not prolong our stay, but left that
afternoon. Next day, we pushed on to Wei-hien. The
road was rocky, and, as we approached, we found another
Son.” ”
* Legge's Classics, vol. i. p. 120.
444 JOURNEY THROUGH SHAN-TUNG.
set of limekilns on the road-side which were also supplied
with coal. We did not stay at Wei-hien, for our books
were not numerous, and we resolved to keep them for
any “fairs ” we might encounter on the way home.
From this point our road lay through plains; fine heavy
sand being the only difficulty we encountered. The
country, though in some places rather barren, was for
the most part fertile, and fine crops of wheat were found
in all directions. In this quarter we found men and boys
in great numbers following the carts and pack-mules
to pick up droppings for manure, which speaks at once
of the cheapness of human labour. The inns here, as
elsewhere, are not particularly clean.
As we went on, we met several “fairs,” and soon
got rid of all our books, except two or three. Mid-day
(16th), we reached Lai-chow, and spent the evening of
the 17th at Whang-hien. We observed a new fashion
of driving wheelbarrows here ; an ass in front drawing
the vehicle, and a man behind pushing and guiding the
animal with a great long whip.
Next morning, we set out early, and, on the following
afternoon, reached home in Safety, and found all well.
END OF WOL. I.
London: Printed by SMITH, ELDER & Co., Old Bailey, E.C.
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