,1‘ . a i hm it. ¢ ‘ r a’i’i BAEDEKER’S GUIDE BOOKS. BEI I ns. ' ' I ‘Q 'lllllllllllllllllll- rks' . , II I _*, 5: - ._"-' 1”!" .ACK J A, ' ‘USN. NO] nth gs rks. SOL‘ é: JN- E; ,ns. 2: . ‘ g rks THI E .. m- 2 % aps, f .rks. ; 1 1 E E.‘ _ JI‘J, . ~ . ‘ALY E ' g and 2 _ :2 rks. OED é; and ' g =5? rks. SOL :5 g .‘HE 2-: 2 AND :0 = :S a, _=_ .rks. LOI g _ , r THE =' 5 ‘:2 bird i'imllmmlmmmllmllmImmmr'r- 'g .rks_ IF NO] 0nd rks. P A] 1119!‘?! .................... . . ‘ )ON 5: ................................... ".3 i o THE GIFT OF :11‘: SW V’, "V" // ,q LY V‘ l m 1 ‘~35 2L» 'KC‘ZIwQ/UC‘L mas’. ........................................................... Z‘ rrks, mulllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll'lllllIlllll‘llll"lllll“INUIIIIIHIIIIIIE TH] THE (1 76 arkS. ——- L’Aht‘lbi'l‘lNhj AND a uuA, wlm 15 Maps, 43 Ham, 1 Panorama of Jerusalem, and 10 Views. 1876. 20 marks. THE TRAVELLER’S MANUAL OF CONVERSATION, IN ENGLISH, GERMAN, FRENCH, AND ITALIAN. 3 marks- July 1882. NORWAY AND SWEDEN. Money Table. (Comp. p. xv.) s ‘ d. hr. 6. k)‘. a. s. ’ d. 1 —— ~— 90 1 — 1 I 11/3 2 —- 1 80 2 —— 2 22/3 3 - 2 70 3 _ 3 4 4 _ 3 90 4 I _ 4 I 51/3 5 —— [1 50 5 —- 5 I 62/3 6 -— 5 110 6 - 6 l 8 7 — 6 30 7 _ 7 i 91,13 8 -- 7 20 s _ s Hal/3 9 - 8 10 9 ! ~ 10 I _ 19 — 9 - 10 _ 11 11,13 20 _- 18 - 18 ! _ f 20 i _ Measures. English Nurweg. Swedish English Kilo- Norweg. Swedish Feet Feet Feet Miles metres Miles Miles 0,97 0,94 1 1 1.609 0,1424 0,1505 1 0,97 1,02 2 3.218 0,23 0,30 1,029 1 1,05 3 4-827 0,43 0,45 2 1,84 2,05 4 6.1136 0,51 0,60 3 2,91 3,08 5 8.045 0,11 0,75 4 3,33 4,10 6 9.654 0,35 0,90 5 4,35 5,13 6,64 10.683 0,94 1 6 5,32 6,16 7 11.263 1 1,05 7 6,g0 7,13 8 12.872 1,14 1,20 8 7,77 8,21 9 14.481 1,23 1,35 9 8,14 9,24 10 16.090 1,42 1,50 10 9,71 10,26 14 22.526 2 2,10 50 48,50 51,30 180 2,35 3 100 97,14 102,65 3 3,15 "0 .W_.— V 7*1- 1 - ‘V \ 7v V 7 if‘ V ' ' hf'tt‘w‘; J‘- ?41 I14’ 1477* WI-Ji :1' 1";7 )v‘Julw'Ifll-R' “gr mimmm " Scale 112000.000 V ‘4 1 0..- " . .0 ' a ' ,. .k -1. -. 9d gufvfi‘r.“ ‘ '; .>;4""1 \Snl: ‘516" , | "y i4 . II‘ .; §~ .0 1 . 7 A A r 3?: am I ": fay" ‘’ §.§° 80W Ila!‘ h » .l'rru'ia/h - ° ,4 A‘ / I 0100M)" ' 1‘ ' ‘ i; N . ‘ - p I J‘ (isten for Paris ‘ um von - 0“ ~' ' I151" 6 Dates. Lupus. NORWAY AND SWEDEN. HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS BY K. BAEDEKER. WITH 21 MAPS AND 9 PLANS. SECOND EDITION, REIODELLED AND REVISED. . LEIPSIO: KARL BAEDEKER. LONDON: DULAU AND 00., 37 $0110 SQUARE, w. 1882. All Rights reserved. U '0' 0.‘. M‘f'v’v ‘Go, little book, God send thee good passage, And specially let this be thy prayere Unto them all that thee will read or hear, Where thou art wrong, after their help to call, Thee to correct in any part or all.’ ' CHAUCER. rfilLQ/K' Grill-'18 PREFACE. The object of the Handbook for Norway and Sweden is to supply the traveller with information regarding the most interesting scenery and physical characteristics of these countries, and with a few notes on the history, languages, and customs of the inhabitants. Like the Editor’sv other handbooks it is based on his personal acquaintance with the country described, a great part of which he has himself eX- plored, visiting the most important places repeatedly. His exertions to secure the accuracy and completeness of the work have been supplemented by the kind assistance of sever— al gentlemen, Norwegian, Swedish, English, and German, to whom his grateful acknowledgements are due. If, how— ever, any of the statements in the Handbook should be found erroneous or defective, he will gratefully receive any correc- tions or suggestions with which travellers may favour him. The traveller will effect a considerable saving both of time and money by preparing an outline of his tour before leaving home, but the details cannot be finally adjusted until the latest local time-tables have been consulted. The most im— portant of these are ‘NoRGEs COMMUNICATIONER’ for Norway and ‘SVERIGES KOMMUNIKATIONER’ for Sweden, both issued weekly in summer at Christiania and Stockholm respectively (price 20 6.) ; but these publications, the latter in particular, are far from complete, containing no mention of many of the small steamboats which ply on the remoter fjords, lakes, and rivers. An excellent itinerary for the southern districts of N orwayis the ‘LOMMEREISEROUTE’ (usually published in June, price 1 kr. 30 0.). On the MAPS and PLANS of the most important districts and towns the utmost care has been bestowed, and it ishoped that they will be found to suffice for all ordinary travellers. HEIGHTS are given approximately in English feet (1. Norw. ft. = 1.029 Engl. ft.; 1 Sw. ft. = 0.974 Engl. ft.). DISTAN— CES by land and on inland lakes are given in kilometres, as the tariffs for carrioles and boats are now calculated on the metrical system (comp. pp. XXII, XXIII), while those by sea are stated. in nautical miles (1 naut. M. = 4 Eng]. M.). The POPULATIONS and other statistics are given from the most recent official sources. First—class Herring‘??? gs numerous in Norway {-1 vi PREFACE . and Sweden than in more densely peopled countries, are to be found in many of the larger towns, while in the smaller towns and country districts there are inns (Norw. Gjwstgive- m'e-r, Sw. giistgifvaregrirdar), posting—stations (Norw. Skyds- stationer, SW. skjutsstatz'oner), and farm—houses (Norw. Bonde- gaarde, SW. bondegr‘irdar), the proprietors of which are bound to receive travellers and to provide them with horses When— ever required. The accommodation at these country inns or stations is usually unpretending, but they are generally clean, and the charges are very moderate. In the Introduction and throughout the Handbook the ordinary items of expenditure are given approximately. The landlords are a much more in- dependent class than the innkeepers of most other countries, being in many cases substantial farmers or shopkeepers, a very small proportion of whose livelihood is derived from innkeeping. To the LANGUAGES of Norway and Sweden, the former in particular, an unusually ample space has been allotted (see removable cover at the end of the volume), partly on the ground that a slight knowledge of them is essential to the complete success of the traveller’s tour, and partly because they are not included in any of the ordinary manuals of con- versation. Lovers of SPORT will still find considerable scope for their favourite pursuits both in Norway and Sweden , but seldom without deviating from the beaten track of tourists , and un- dergoing some privations. A number of the places where the best shooting and fishing are obtainable are mentioned in the Handbook. From this, as Well as from the Editor’s other Handbooks, advertisements of every kind are strictly excluded. CONTENTS. Introduction. Page I. Expenses. Money. Language. Passports. Post Offlce xv II. Plan of Tour. . . . . . . . . . xvi III. Conveyances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xix lV. Luggage. Equipment. Tourist Club . . . . . . xxiii V. Hotels and Inns. . . . . . . . . . . . xxv VI. National Character . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xxvii VII. Maps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xxviii VIII. Topographical Nomenclature . . . . . . . . . . xxix IX. Physical Geography of Scandinavia . . . . . . . . xxx 0 v v I Situation. Geological Formation. Coast Line xxx Mountains, Lakes, and Rivers . . . . . . . . . . xxxv Climate and Vegetation . . . . . . . . . . . . . xxxviii Animal Kingdom. Population . . . . . . . . . . xli X. History of Sweden and Norway . . . . . . . . . xiii Prehistoric Period . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xlii Transition to the Historical Period . . . . . . . . . xliii Norway before the Union . . . . . . . . . . xliv Sweden before the Union . . . . . . . . . . . . lii Transition to the Union . . . . . . . . . . . . . lvi The Union . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . lviii Sweden after the Dissolution of the Kalmar Union. Literature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . lxii The Continued Union of Norway with Denmark. Literature lxx Union of Sweden and Norway. . . . . . . . . . . lxxv Literature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . lxxviii Chronological Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . lxxix XI. Outlines of Norwegian and Swedish Grammar, at the end of the volume. Norway. Route Page 1. Christiania and Environs . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Oscarshall. Hovede. Ekeberg. Frognersaeter. .10-1‘2 2. From Christiania to the Randsfjord by Drammen and Hougsund . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 1. From Sandviken to Krogkleven and Honefos . . 14 2. From Lier to the Tyrifjord. Svangstrandsvei . . . . 15 3. Excursion through the Lierdal to the Bejstad-Aas. . . 17 4. From Vikersund to St. Olafs-Bad . . . . . . . . . 18 3. From (Christiania) Hougsund to Kongsberg and the ‘ Rjukanfos. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 From the Rjukanfos to Odde or to Eidfjord on the Har- danger Fjord . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 From Kongsberg to the Hardanger Fjord through the Numedal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 viii CONTENTS. Route Page 4. From Christiania to Odde. Thelemarken. . . . . . . 26 a. Via Kongsberg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 1. From Mosebo to Dale in the Maanelv Valley. . . . . 26 2. Ascent of the Vindegg . . . . . . . . . . . 26 3. From Moen to Skien. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 4. From Botten to Stavanger. . . . . . . . . . . . 28 5. From Rgldal to Stavanger. . . . . . . . . . . . 30 b.ViaSkien.................. 31 1. From Skien to the Hitterdal (Rjukanfos) . . . . . . 34 2. From Hvideseid to Tvedestrand or Arendal . . . . . 35 3. From Bandakslid to the Fyrisvand. Lille Rjukanfos . 35 4. From Ravnejuvet to Neesland and Mule i Vinje . . . 36 5. From Christiania to Ohristiansand . . . . . . . . . 36 From Langesund to Porsgrund and Skien . . . . . 38 6. Christiansand and Environs . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 From Christiansand to Ekersund (by land) . . . . . 40 The Saetersdal. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 7. From Ohristiansand to Stavanger . . . . . . . . . 42 Excursions from Stavanger: A. The Lysefjord . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 B. The Sandsfjord, Hylsfjord, and Saudefjord . . 48 The Suledalsvand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 O. The Sandeidfjord . . . . . . . . . . . .. . 49 I From Sandeid to the Hardanger Fjord and Bergen . . 49 8. From Stavanger to Bergen . . . . . . . . . . 50 9. The Hardanger Fjord . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 'From Tera to Vik i Qifjord . . . . . ‘. . 54-60 1. From Skjelnaes to the Maurangerfjord. Bondhusbrae . . 55 2. From the Maurangerfjord' across the Folgefond to Odde 55 3. From Jondal to the Spirfjord. . . . . . . . . . . 5 4. From Norheimsund to the Aadlandfjord by Eikedal . . 56 5. The Fiksensund. From Botnen to Vossevangen . . 56 6. From Eide to Ulvik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 7. From Ulvik to Ose. Osefjord. Osedal . . . . . . . 59 8. From Ulvik to Aurland. . . . . . 59 Excursions from Vik. Veringsfos. Simodal . . . . .60-62 From Vik i Bifjord to Odde. Excursions from Odde . .62-67 10. Bergen and Environs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 11. From Bergen to Vossevangen and on to Eide on the Hardangerfjord or to Gudvangen on the Sognefjord 7.) 12. From Ohristiania through the Hallingdal to Laerdalsoren 0n the Sognefjord. . . . . . . . . 78 1. From Naes to Lake Spirillen . . . . . . . . . . . 80 2. From Viko to the Valders Route . . . . . . . . . 80 3. From Ekre to the Valders Route . . . . . . . . . 80 4. From Tuf to Nystuen . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 13. From Ghristiania through the Valders to Laerdalmren on the Sognefjord . . . . . 84 a. Via Lake Spirillen to Frydenlund . . . . . . . . 84 1). Via the Randsfjord to Odnaes and thence by carriage to Laardalseren . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 v1. Hvidhafd and Kvalehagda. . . . . . . . . . . .9 90 2. From Skogstad to the 0pdalstale. . . . . . . . . 92 CONTENTS. Route 14. 15. 16. 3. Stugonesand Suletind ., . 4. From Nystuen to Aardal . The Sognefjord . . . . . a. Aardalsfjord. Vettisfos . . 1. From Farnees to Muradn and Fortu 2. From Moen to Eidsbugarden. 3. Store Skagastfllstind . . . . . . 4. Circular Tour round the Horunger b. Lysterfjord. Jostedal . From Solvorn to Hillestad From Hillestad to Fjeerland . From Marifjaeren to Sogndal. . . . . From Dasen to the Church of Jostedal . . . . . . . . From Skjolden through the Mflrkereidsdal to the Jostedal . From the Krondal to the Tunsbergdalsbrae . . . . . From Kroken across the Jostedalsbrec to Gredung i Stryn c. Aurlandsfjord and Naerefjord . . 1. Ascent of the Blejan from Ytre-Frgningen scvewwe 2-. The Flaamsdal . . . . . 3. From Aurland to Vossevangen . . . . 4. From Aurland to Tenjum in the Leerdal . . . . . . d. From Laerdalseren to Bergen by steamer. The W. Sognefjord. . . . . . . . . . From Amble to Sogndal (by land) . From Sogndal to Fjaerland . . . . . . . . . Fjaerlandsfjord. Store Suphellebree. Bojumsbrae . From Balholmen to Sande by the Sveereskard . . From Balholmen to Forde . . . . . . . . . . . From Christiania to Molde by the Gudbrandsdal and the Romsdal. Lake Mjesen From Eidsvold to Eidsvoldsverk . From Gjgvik to Skoien . . . . . . . . . From Lillehammer to the Gausdal Sanatorium . From Skjaeggestad to Jerkin . . . . . . . . . . From Laurgaard to the Formokampen and to Serum . From Holsaet to Aanstad . . . . . . . . . . . . From Melmen to Aanstad . . . . . . From Stuefloten to the Norddalsfjord . . . From Statues to Sylte on the Norddalsfjord Routes from the Gudbrandsdal to Jotunheim . a. From Kvisberg to Lake Gjende . . . . . . b. From Bjelstad to Lakes Gjende and Bygdin . c. From Bredvangen to Rejshjem . . . . d. From Storvik to Lake Gjende From the Rusiliensaetre to the top and to the Memurubod , . . cm4mqppa$ mean» of the Nautgardstind .Jotunheim . . . a. From Fagerlund in Valders to the Raufjord Hotel, and across Lake Bygdin to Eidsbugarden . 1. Ascent of the Thorfinstind. . . . . . . . . . . 2. From the Nybud on Lake Bygdin to the Gjende Lake by the Langedal, or by the Thorfinsdal and Svartdal . 3. Excursions from Eidsbugarden.‘ Skinegg. Langeskavl. Uranaastind. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . b. From Skogstad and Nystuen to Tvindehoug and Bide— bugarden.......~.......... x CONTENTS. Route Page Ascent of the Koldedalstind . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 c. From Eidsbugarden to the Gjendebod on Lake Gjende 139 1. Ascent of the Memurutunge, Gjendetunge, and Knuts— hultstind ................139,14.o 2. From the Gjendebod to Skogadalsbflen through the Raudda1..................141 3. Ascents of the Veslefjeld (Besegg) and the Beslw . 142 d. From the Gjendebod to Rejshjem . . . . . . . 142 1. From the Hellerkjaern to the Leirdal by the Hogvagel . 143 2. From the Spiterstul to the Galdhopig . . . , , . , 144 3. Ascent of the Glittertind . . . . . . . . . . . 144 4. From the Visdals-Saetre to the Gokraskard, the Lauvho, and the Smaadal. . . . . . . . . . . . 145 e. Rejshjem and Environs. The Galdhopig 145 f. From Rojshjem over the Sognefjeld to Fortun 148 g. From Eidsbugarden through the Melkedal to Sko— gadalsbeen, and across the Keiser to Fortun . . 151 h. From the Vettisfos to Tvindehong and Eidsbugarden 154 Ascent of the Stolsnaastinder . . . . . . . . . . 154 i. From the Vettisfos to Rejshjem through the Utladal, the Gravdal, and the Leirdal . . . . . . . . . 155 Ascent of the Skogadalsnaasi and the Styggedalstind. . . 156 k. From Skjolden on the Sognefjord to Fortun and the _ Horunger.................158 18. From the Gudbrandsdal to Maeraak on the Geirangerfjord 161 1. From Lindsheim to Mork and the Nordfjord . . . . . 163 2. From Grjotlid to the Nordfjord. . . . . . 163 19. From Bergen to Throndhjem by Steamer . 164 1. The Sgndfjord (Dalsfjord and Ferdefjord) . . . . . . 165 2. The Nordfjord, Hornindalsvand, Isfjord, and Hyenfjord 166 3. The Fjords near Christiansund . . . . . . . . . . 171 20. From Aalesund to Hellesylt (Molde) by Hrstenvik and fiie 171 21. Overland Route from Bergen to Aalesund and Molde 175 From Sylte to Veblungsnees and Aak. The Tafjord . . . 184 22. From Faleide to the Valleys of Stryn, Loen7 and Olden 186 23. Molde and the Moldefjord with its Branches . . . . . 192 a. Steamboat Voyage from Molde to Veblungsnaes in the Romsdal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 1). Land Route from Molde to Veblungsnaes 195 c. From Molde to the Eikisdal . . . . 196 24. Land Routes from Molde to Throndhjem . 200 a. By Battenfjordseren and Christiansund . 200 b. By Angvik and Orkedal . . . . . . . . . . . 201 25. From Domaas (Molde orLillehammer) to Steren (Thrond- hjem)..................201 1. Ascent of the Snehzetta . . . . . . . . . _ 203 2. From Jerkin through the Foldal to Lille-Elvdal 203 3. From Aune through the Sundal to Sundalsaren 204 4. From Bjerkaker to Hrkedalseren . . . .. . . 204 26. From Ghristiania to Throndhjem 205 27. Throndhjem and its Environs . . . . . . 210 28. Inland Route from Throndhjem to Namsos . 218 CONTENTS. xi Route Page 1. From Levanger to Sweden . . . . . . . . . . . 219 2. From Stenkjaer to the Snaasenvand and the Fiskumfos . 220 3. From Namsos to the Fiskumfos and Vefsen . . . . . 221 29. From Throndhjem to Bode and the Lofoden Islands. Province of Nordland . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 1. From Namsos to Kongsmo on the Indre Foldenfjord . . 227 2. The Bindalsfjord and Thosenfjord . . . . . . . . . 228 3. The .Velfjord. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 4. The Vefsenfjord . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 5. From Sovig to Here . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 6. The Ranenfjord, Dunderlandsdal, and Junkersdal . . 230, 231 7. The Melfjord. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 8. Holandsfjord. Reindalstind. Glomfjord . . . 233 Excursions from Bode. Beierenfjord. Beierendal. Sal- tenfjord. Skjerstadfjord. Sulitjelma. Saltdal. Lo- foden and Vesteraalen Islands . . . . . . 234-244 30. From Bode to Tl'OIHBH, Hammerfest, Varde, and Vadse. Finmarken. North Cape. Nordkyn . . . . . . . 244 1. The Foldenfjord . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244 2. From Seveien to the Bardudal and Maalselvsdal . . . 246 3. From Maalsnaes to the Rostavand . . . . . . . . . 246 4. From Maalsnws to the Altevand . . . . . . . . . 247 5. From Kirkemo to Soveien. . . . . . . . . . . . 247 6. Ascent of the Tromstind . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 7. The Ulfsfjord . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 8. The Lyngenfjord . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251 9. The Altenfjord . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252 FromVadsetoNyborg. . . . . . . . . . . . . 26?) From Vadse to the Syd-Varanger . . . . . . . . 266 31. Inland Routes from the Altenfjord . . . . . . . . . 268 a. From the Altenfjord to Karasjok . . . . . . . . . 268 b. From Alten to Haparanda in Sweden . . . . . 269 32. From Christiania by Railway to Charlottenberg . . . . 271 From Kongsvinger to Elverum . . . 272 Sweden. From Christiania to Gothenburg by Railway . . . . . 273 1. The Sarpsfos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274 2. From Fredrikshald to Venersborg by the Dalslands Canal 276 34. From Christiania to Gothenburg by Sea . . . . . 276 35. Gothenburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280 Towns to the S. of Gothenburg . . . . . . . . . 284 36. From Gothenburg to Venersborg. Trollhatta Falls. Lake Venern . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285 1. From Oxnered to Uddevalla . . . . . . . . . . . ‘ 7 w 2. From Venersborg to Herrljunga . . . . . . . . . 288 31. From Gothenburg to Stockholm . . . . . . . . . . 288 1. From Herrljunga to Borz‘is . . . . . . . . . . . 289 2. From Stenstorp to Hjo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 3. From Stenstorp to Lidkiiping. The Kinnekulle. . 290 4. From Skijfde to Karlsborg . . . . . . . . . . . 291 5. Vestgtita Linie of the Gota Canal . . . . . . . . . 291 6. From Moholm to Mariestad . . . . . . . . 291 38. From Falkoping via Jonkiiping to Nassjo. . . . . . . 293 xii CONTENTS. Route Page 39. From Jönköping to Stockholm by Lake Vettern and the Göta Canal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294 40. From Nässjö to Stockholm . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301 1. From Mjölby to Motala and Hallsberg. . . . . . . 302 2. The Kinda Canal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303 3. From Norsholm to Vestervik . . . . . . . . . . 303 4. From Norrköping to Stockholm by the night-steamer . 41. From Charlottenberg to Stockholm . . . . . . 300 1. From Frykstad‘to the Fryken Lakes . . . . . . . 2. The Valley of the Klarelf . . . . . . . 307 3. From Christinehamn to Filipstad . . . . . . . . 307 42. From Hallsberg to Orebro, Köping, and Stockholm . . 308 1. Lake Hjelmaren and the Hjelmare Canal . . . . . . 309 _ 2. From Frövi tO Ludvika . . . . . . . . . . . . 309 43. Stockholm and its Environs . . . . . . . . . . . . 311 Staden and Riddarholmen . . . . . . . . . . . 318 The Northern Quarter-s of the Town . . . . . . . 323 The National Museum . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328 Södermalm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330 Environs: Djurgården, Marieberg, Karlberg, Solna Kyrka, Haga, Ulriksdal . . . . . . . . . . 337-342 Excursions on Lake Malären; Drottningholm, Mariefred, Gripsholm, Strengnäs . . . . . . . . . . 342-340 The Baltic: Vaxholm, Gustafsberg, etc. . . . . . 346-348 44. From Kolbäck and Valskog to Flen, Nyköping, and Oxelö- sund...................348 45. From Stockholm to Upsala. . . . . . . . . . . . . 350 a. By Railway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350 b. By Steamer. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351 40.Upsala..................... 353 47. From Upsala to Getle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 357 1. From Orbyhus to Dannemora . . . . . . . . . . 358 2. From Gefle to Falun . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3,59 48. From Gothenburg to Falun. Dalecarlia . . . . . . . 309 1. From Daglösen to Filipstad . . . . . . . . 2. The Strömsholms Canal 300 49. From Stockholm vii Upsala to'Ös-tersund and'Tliro-ndhj-emI 364 1. From Kryllgo to Borlänge . . . . . . . . . 2. Ascent of Areskutan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307 50. From Gefle to Sundsvall and Haparanda. The Swedish Norrland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367 1. From Sundsvall to Torpshammar . . . . . . . . 308 2. From Luleå to Qvickjock and to Bodø in Norway . . 370 51. From Stockholm to Visby . . . . . . . . . . . . . 373 52. From Stockholm to Malmö by Nässjö . . . . . . . . 378 1. From Vislanda to Bolmen . . . . . . . . . . . 379 2. From Vislanda to Karlshamn . . . . . . . . . . 379 3. From Hessleholm to Christianstad . . . . . . . . ~ 380 4. From Stehag to Röstånga and to the Ringsjö '. . . . 381 5. From Lund to Trelleborg . . . . . . . . . . . . 383 From Hessleholm to Helsingborg . . . . . . . 383 53. From Alfvesta to Kalmar and Karlskron . . . . . . 385 IslandofÖland...............387 From Oskarshamn to Nässjö . _. . . . . . . . 388 PLANS AND MAPS. xiii Route Page 54. Malmo and its Environs . -. . . . 388 From Malmo to Ystad. Bornholm 391 From Ystad to Eslof . 391 From Eslof to Landskrona 392 Plans and Maps. Comp. the Key Map at the End of the Book. PLANS: 1. Christlania (1 :20,000), with Map of the Environs (1:100,000). -— 2. Bergen, with Environs (1 :24,000). —— Thrond- hjem, with Environs (1 : 100,000). —~ 4. Gothenburg (1 :25,000). -— 5. Stockholm (1 :15,000). —— 6. Upsala (1 220,000). —— 7. Visby (1 : 15,000). -- 8. Land (1 :20,000). —- 9. Malmo (1 : 30.000). MAPS. 1. General Map of S. Norway (1 :2,000,000): before 10 pap-‘(IA to (as 00 (IA :4; l-Al-ih-Xl-A OO'QODU‘ {Ob—r OQO . Map the Title-page. . Map of the District between Christiania, Kongsberg, and Lake .Krederen (1 : 500,000): between pp. 12, 13. . Map of North Thelemarken (1 : 500,000): between pp. 20, 21. . Map of South Thelcmarken (1 : 500,000): between pp. 30. 31. . Map of the Stavangcr Fjord and its Branches (1 : 500,000): between pp. 44, 45. . Map of the Outer Hardanger Fjord (1 : 500,000): p. 51. Map of the Inner Hardanger Fjord (1 :500,000): between pp. 52, 53. . Map of the Central Part of the Sognefjord (1:500,000): between pp. 96, 97. . Map of the Inner Sogne/Ijord (1 : 500,000): p. 97. . Map of Jotunhez'm (1 : 500,000): between pp. 132, 133. . Map of the Nordfjord and its Surroundings (1 :500,000): between .pp. 166, 167. . Map of the Molde/30rd and its Branches (1 : 500,000): be- tween pp. 192, 193. of the North- West and North Coast of Norway (1 : 1,500,000), 1st Sheet: between pp. 218, 219. . Map of the North-West and North Coast of Norway (1 : 1,500,000), 2nd Sheet: between pp. 234, 235. . Map of the Estuary of the Gota-Elf(1 : 100,000): p. 280. . Map of the Trollhc'itta Falls (1 : 24,000): p. 281. . Map of the Djurgdrd near Stockholm (1 : 25,000): p. 338. . Map of the Environs of Stockholm (1 :100,000): between pp. see, 339. . Map of the Banks of the Sand (1 : 500,000): p. 388. . General Map of S. Sweden (1 :2, 000,000): after the Index. 21. Key Map of Norway and Sweden, showing the Routes and Maps of the Handbook : after the Vocabulary. xiv ABBREVIATIONS. Abbreviations. N., S., E., W. = north, nor- thern; south, southern; east, eastern; west, western. = Norwegian mile in Nor- way (1 Norw. M. = 7 Engl. M.), and Swedish mile in Sweden(1 Sw. M. = 63/4 Engl. M., nearly), unless the con-_ trary is stated. M. R., B., D., S., A. = room, break- fast, dinner, supper, atten- dance. R. also = Route. Kr., a. = crowns and are in " Norway. 0. = Eire, the form used in Sweden. Ft. = English feet. A cross ('1') prefixed to the name of a station indicates that it is ‘fast’ (see Introd. 111.). ~--— On all land-routes and inland lakes and rivers the distances are given in kilometres (1 Kil. : 0,621 Engl. M.; comp. the Table before the title-page), while on sea- routes in both countries they are expressed by sea-miles (1 sea- mile = 4 Engl. -— On railway and steamboat—routes the distances are generally reckoned from the starting-point of the journey, while on high-roads the distances from station to station are given as more convenient. Asterisks are used as marks of commendation. INTRODUCTION. *— I. Expenses. Money. Language. Passports. Post Office. The cost of travelling in Norway and Sweden is much more moderate than in most other parts of Europe, but as the distances are very great and much time is consumed in traversing them by road, steamboat, and rowing-boat, the sum total of the traveller’s expenses will not usually amount to much less than would be spent on a tour in Switzerland or the Tyrol. After arriving in the country, the traveller should allow at least 1t. for each day of his tour, but less will suffice if a prolonged stay be made at one or more rest- ing—places. Money. By the monetary conventions of 1873 and 1875 the currency of the three Scandinavian kingdoms was assimilated. The crown (krone) is worth 18. 11/3d. and is divided into 100 parts called are in Norway and fire in Sweden (see money—table before the title-page). English sovereigns, each worth 18 kr., usually realise their full value at all the principal centres of commerce, though the rate of exchange is often a few are less than 18 kr. per pound, as in the remoter districts it is sometimes difficult to pro- cure change for a gold piece of 1C or 20 kr. The traveller will find it more convenient to obtain an abundant supply of small notes and coins (Smaa Penge) at Gothenburg, Stockholm, Christiania, or Christiansand before starting on his tour. Language. English is spoken on board almost all the Nor- wegian steamboats and at the principal resorts of travellers both in Norway and Sweden, but in the country districts the native tongue alone is understood. The Danish language, as pronounced in Norway, is on the whole the most useful, especially as most travellers devote far more time to Norway than to Sweden. (See grammars and vocabularies in the removable cover at the end of the volume.) Passports are unnecessary, except for the purpose of procuring delivery of registered letters. -— The Custom House Examination is invariably lenient. Comp. p. 305. Post Office. The postage of a letter to Great Britain, weighing 1/2 oz., is 20 an, and of a post-card 10ere. The traveller should avoid giving his correspondents any poste restante address other than steamboat or railway stations, as the communication with places off the beaten track is slow and uncertain. Telegraph Offices are numerous in proportion to the population. Xvi II. PLAN OF TOUR. 11. Plan of Tour. A careful plan should be prepared before the traveller leaves home, but the details must be left to be filled in as he proceeds on his-way. The steamboat arrangements are constantly undergoing alteration, and the slowness and uncertainty of travelling by car- riole and rowing-boat often give rise to disappointment, while many of the traveller’s movements must of course depend on the state of the weather. The best season for travelling, both in Sweden and Norway, is from the beginning of June to the middle of September, but for the Jotunheim and other mountain regions July and August, as many of the loftier routes are apt to be obstructed by snow both earlier and later in the season. The gnats which swarm in some of the inland districts, especially in the Swedish Norrland, including Lapland, are a great source of annoyance and suffering, but the plague generally abates after the middle of August. For a voyage to the North Cape 30), or to Haparanda and Avasaxa (RR. 31, 50), for the sake of seeing the midnight sun, the best season is from the middle of June to the end of July. It may also be noted that August is often a rainy month in the eastern districts of Norway, while the wet season sets in somewhat later on the W. coast. An energetic traveller may see almost all the chief points of interest in Norway and Sweden in ‘21/2-3 months, but a thoroughly exhaustive tour cannot be accomplished in one season. The chief attractions in Norway are the fjords of the west coast, the Jotun- heim Mountains, and the magnificent scenery of the Nordland within the Arctic Circle. The chief interest of Sweden consists in its towns and its canals, but picturesque scenery, though on a smaller scale than that of Norway, also abounds. — The railway companies have lately begun to issue CIRCULAR TOUR TICKETS, available for 30-60 days, and these may sometimes be found ser- viceable by the tourist in Sweden. He should, however, avoid routes conducting him over the Kil and Falun railway (p.359). The fine scenery on the W. coast of Norway is not included in any of the districts for which circular tickets are issued. —— The routes given in the Handbook may be combined in many different ways, but a few of the favourite tours are subjoined as specimens. i. Two or three Weeks from Christiansand. Days From Christiansand by steamer to Stavanger and Odde on the Har- danger Fjord, and thence to Bergen (RR. 7-10) . . . . 5-7 From Bergen by steamer to Bolstadm'en, and by road, small steamer, and road again to Gudvangen on the Sognefjord (R. 11) . . . . 2-3 From Gudvangen to Laerdalserren, and Excursion to the Jostedals- bra2(R-.14).......'.............3-4 From Laardalseren over the Fillefjeld to Cha'istz'ania (R. 13) . . . 4-6 , 14-20 ii. Threeor Four Weeks from Ohristiansand. - From Christiansand by steamer to Arendal, and by road to ,Tz'n- oset; or (quicker) all the way by steamer to Skim, and thence II. PLAN OF TOUR. xvii Da 8 by lake steamer to Notodden-Hz'tterdal, and by road to Tinoset y (RR.3,4,5....................4-6 From Tinoset to the Rjukanfos, and thence to Mule, either via Tinoset or via the Totakvand (RR. 3, 4 . . . . . . . . 3-4 From Mule to the Haukelisceter and Odde (R. 4) . . 3-4 From Odde to Bergen and thence either via Boldstaderen ‘as. in Tour i, or by steamer all the way, to Lwrdalseren (RR. 9, 10, 11, 14) 5-6 Excursions from Laerdalseren, and thence to Chrtstiam'a as above (RR.1'4,12,13)............... 7-9 22-29 \ iii. Three or four Weeks from Ghristiania. ‘From Christiania to Drammen, Kongsberg, and the Rjukanfos (RR. 2, 3) 2-3 From the Rjukanfos to Odde, Bergen, Lcerdalser-ren, and Christ'iania (as in Tour ii) . . . 18-24 . \ 20-27 iv. Three or four Weeks from Ghristiania. By steamboat from Christiania to Skr'en, and thence by lake steamer to Hitterdal,- excursion thence to the Rjukanfos and back (RR. 4, 3 5-6 From Hitterdal by road to Hv-ideseid and by steamer to Trisaet and Dalen; excursions from Trisaet and Dalen (RR. 3, 4). . . . . 5—6 From Dalen or Trisaet to Odde; steamboat to Bide; road to Vosse- vangen and Gudvangen; and thence to Christr'am'a (as in Tours , ii,iii)......................10-16 20-28 v. Three or four Weeks from Christiania. From Christiania over the Fillefjeld to Loerdalseren and G-udvangen (RR. 13,12) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-7 From Gudvangen to Eide on the HardangerEio-rd; thence to Odde, ‘ and from Odde to Bergen (RR. 11, 9). . . . . . . . . . 7-9 From Bergen by the Overland Route to Molde (R. 21) . . . . . 4-5 From Molde to the Romsdal, the Gudbrandsdal, Lr'llehammer, and Chrz'stz'am'a (R. 15) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-8 22-29 vi. Four or five Weeks from Ohristiania. As in Tour v. to Molde. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16-21 From Molde to the head of the Romsdal and back (R. 15) . . . 3-4 From Molde by steamboat direct, or partly overland, to Thrond- hjem(RR. 19, 24) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3 From Throndhjem over the Dovrejfjeld to Lr'llehammer, and thence to Christianz'a (R. 25). . 7-9 27-37 vii. Seven to eleven Weeks from Gothenburg. From Gothenburg to Trollhdttan, Jonko'pr'ng, Vadstena, and Stock- . holm (RR. 36, 37, 38 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-7 Stockholm and Environs . . o. . . . . . . . . . ,. . . . 3-4 From Stockholm to Upsala, Ostermnd, and Throndhjem (RR. 45, 3 i 46 o . u u e 0 o 0 Q Q 0 o o o 0 o e 0 u I o e ' From Throndh‘jem to the North Cape, and back to Throndhjem ' (RR.28,29, From Throndlrjem over the Dovrefjeld to the Romsdal and Molde 5 6 From Molde overland to the Sognefjord and Bergen (R. 21) . . . 4-6 From Bergen to Odde on the Hardanger Fjord, thence to Eide, _ Gudvangen, Lcerdalseren, and Christiania, as in Tours ii, iii. ' 14-21 49-68 BkEDEkER’s Norway and Sweden. 2nd Edit. 1) .xviii Il. PLAN OF TOUR. WALKING TOURS. All the above tours are easy, being accom- ‘ plished almost entirely by steamboat, railway, and carriole, and the traveller will rarely suffer any privation worthy of mention. To mountaineers, pedestrians, and lovers of wild and grand scenery, ~who are prepared for occasional privations and fatigues, the follow- ing walks and excursions are recommended: -- . From Christiansand through the Scetersdal to the Suledalsvand and Odde, RR. 6, 9. Excursions to the Buarbraz and Folgefond, the Skjwggedalsfos, the 'Vem'ngsfos, and the walk from Ulvz'k to Eide, R. 9. From Loerdalseren to Jostedal; back to the Lysterjfjord, and then to _Skjolden, Fortun, and Oscarshoug, RR. 14 17 , . From Fortun to Aardal and the Vettisfos, and thence to Lakes Tyin, Bygdz'n, and Gjende, RR. 14, 16. From Lake Gjende to the Galdlwpt'g, the highest mountain in Nor- way, and to Rejshjem, R. 17. From Rgjshjem to Opstrg/n, and excursions at the head of the Nord- fjord, RR. 18, 22. _ _ From Hellesylt to the Norangsfjord and back, R. 20. From Hellesylt to Manuals, and thence to Stavbrcekkene and back, RR. 21, 18. From Maeraak across the mountain to Yttredal and Sylte, and thence to Aak in the Romsdal, R. 21. From Veblungsnazs or from Molde to the Ez'kt'sdalsvand and Sandals- eren, RR. 23, 25. ' From Bode to the Sult'tjelma, R. 29. From Tromsa to the Lyngenfjo'rd, R. 30. SPORT of all kinds has fallen off greatly in Norway and Sweden of late years. Excellent salmon-fishing is indeed still obtainable, but only at high rents, and the best rivers, such as the Namsenelv above Namsos, are let on long leases, chiefly to wealthy Englishmen. Trout fishing, however, may still be had in abundance by those ~v who are prepared for some hardships. Among the best waters (‘Fis- kevand’) for trout and grayling are the Thelemarlcen Lakes, the Messna and Laagen which fall. into Lake Mjesen, the Storsja, Istemsja, and Foemundsja, the Ostm Dalelf and other streams fall— .ing into Lake Siljan in Sweden, the Lule Elf and the lakes from ,which it descends in Lapland, and many other lakes and rivers mentioned in the Handbook. -— It is difficult now to obtain good ' shooting in Norway and Sweden , but the mountains enclosing the Hallingdal are still said to afford good reindeer-shooting, which may also be had on the Hardanger Vidder, in the neighbourhood of the Romsdal, near Reros, and in Lapland. Wild—fowl abound in many parts of Norway, particularly in the trackless forests of :Qsterdalen, in the Ostra and Vestra Dal in Dalarne, in the vicin— -ity of the Storsjo in J emtland, and in Lapland, but the sportsman will find serious difficulties to contend with. In the first place a very'large proportion of the mountain and forest districts , where the best sport is obtainable, belongs to government, and by a Nor- "wegian law passed in 1877 200-500 crowns, according to circum- ..'_S.t-a:nces, must be paid for a license to shoot there. Persons found rebooting without a license are liable to a fine of 200-1000 crowns. III. CON VEYANCES. xix Although no license is required when permission is obtained to shoot over private property, the sport is generally very inferior. Another drawback to the sportsman’s enjoyment is the difficulty of obtaining good or even tolerable quarters. The Swedish game-laws, however, are as yet much less stringent, no license being required for shoot- ing on unenclosed land belonging to government. The CLOSE SEASONS in Norway are as follows: —- For heath-hen and black-hen (Red and Aarhene), 15th March to 15th Aug. ; capercailzie (Tim'), blackcock (Aarhane), and hazel-hen (Hjerpe), 15th May to 15th Aug; par- tridge (Rapphens), 1st Jan. to 1st Sept; eider-duck (Edderfugl), 15th April to 15th Aug. (no eider-fowl to be killed in Tromso Stit't or in_ the Fog- derier of Fosen and Namdal till the end of 1885); ptarmigan (Rype), 15th May to 15th Aug; reindeer (Rensdyr), 1st April to 1st Aug, hare (Hare), 1st June to 15th Aug.:, elk (Elgsdg/Ir), beaver (Bower), and deer (Hjo'rt), 1st Nov. to 1st Aug. (but foreigners are prohibited from shooting them at any time). -- Salmon (Law) and sea-trout (Seer'ret) in rivers, estuaries, and lakes, 14th Sept. to 15th April; in brooks or on the sea-coast, 14th Sept. to 14th Feb. The close seasons for game in Sweden are nearly the same, usually ending on 9th August. 111. conveyances. TIME TABLES for Norway in ‘Nor-yes Communicationm", for Sweden in ‘Svem'ges Kommum'katt'oner", and for Denmark in the ‘Rez'selz'ste‘. steamboats (Norw. Dampskibe, SW. c'mgbdtar). Most of the steamboats, both in Norway and Sweden, are comfortably fitted up, and have good restaurants on board. The Danish steamboats (Det Forenede Dampskibs-Selskab are said to be the best of those plying on the Baltic Sea, while the steamers of DetBergensk-Nordlandske Dampskibs—Selskab are commonly reported to be the most comfort- able for a journey to the North Cape (comp. p. 221). The smaller steamers plying on the Norwegian fjords are comfortable during the day, but their sleeping accommodation is rather inadequate (see p. 96). The steamers on the Swedish canals should be used only for short distances. The traveller should take every oppor- tunity offered of making previous enquiry as to the comfort of the vessel in which he contemplates making a long tour. It is, perhaps, superfluous to state that he should always travel in the first cabin. Travellers who are about to spend one or more nights on board a steamer should lose no time in securing a berth by personal application to the steward. In the smaller vessels the dining- saloon is used at night as a sleeping-cabin, but there is always a separate ladies’-cabin. A passenger travelling with his family pays full fare for himself, but is usually entitled to a reduction (‘Mod- eration’) of 25 per cent for each of the other members of the party. On most of the steamboats return-tickets, available for various periods, are issued at a fare and a half. The food is generally good and abundant, but vegetables are rare, and ‘hermetiske Sager’, salt relishes, and cheese always pre- ponderate at breakfast and supper. The usual charge for a sub— stantial breakfast or supper is 1-11/2, for dinner 2-21/2 crowns. b3‘ xx III. CONVEYANCES. Wine, beer (250. per half-bottle), tea, and coffee are all extras. No spirits are procurable. At 7 or 8 a.m. most passengers take a cup of coffee and abiscuit or rusk(‘Kavri11ger’). The account should be paid daily, to prevent mistakes. The steward expects a fee of 1/2-1 kr. for a voyage of 24 hours, but less in proportion for longer voyages. Railways (Norw. Jer'nba'ne'r, Sw. jem'vd'gar). Most of the rail- ways are similar in all respects to those of other European countries. Both in Norway and Sweden, however, there are several narrow- gauge lines (31/3 ft.), with two classes only, which correspond with the 2nd and 3rd on the other lines. The carriages on these narrow lines are often badly hung and unprovided with spring-buffers, so that the passenger sustains a severe jolting at starting and drawing up. From 50 to 70lbs. of luggage are usually free. All luggage, except what the passenger takes into the carriage with him, must be booked. The average speed of the quick trains (Norw. Hurtig- tog, Sw. snc'illtdg) is 22-24 Engl. M. , that of the mixed trains (blandede Tog, blandade tdg) 15-20 Engl. M., and that of the goods trains (Godstog, godstdg) 10-12 Engl. M. per hour. These last, which usually convey 2nd and 3rd class passengers only, are ex- tremely tedious for long distances. All the trains have smoking carriages (Regekupe', rdlckupe') and ladies’ compartments (Koinde- k'upe', damkupé). The RAILWAY RESTAURANTS in Norway are often poor, but in Sweden they are good and inexpensive. Passengers help them- selves, there being little or no attendance. For breakfast the usual charge is 11/4—11/2, for dinner or supper 11/2-13/4 crowns; for a cup of coffee or half-bottle of beer 25 e. Spirituous liquors not obtainable. The express trains stop at fixed stations, the names of which are posted up in the carriages, to allow time for meals Posting (Norw. Skyds, Sw. skjuts; pronounced shdss or shyss in each case). Sweden is so well provided with railways and in- land steamboat-routes that the traveller rarely has occasion to drive on the high-roads. In Norway, however, there are still immense tracts of country where the Stolkjawre (a light cart with seats for two persons, and generally without springs) and the KarioH- (a light gig for one person) afford the sole means of communication. The luggage is strapped or attached with a rope behind the trav- eller, and on the top of it the Skydsgut (or simply Gut) takes his seat, while the traveller usually drives himself. If he does so he will be responsible for any accident, but not if he allows the ‘Gut’ to drive from behind. The horses, or rather ponies, which are al- -1- A comfortable carriole or a ‘Trille’ (open four-wheeler) may be bought at Christiania, or hired for the whole journey, at moderate cost, but serious drawbacks to this mode of travelling are the loss of inde- pendence thereby occasioned, and the delays and expense of conveying the vehicle long distances by railway, steamer, and rowing-boat. III. CONVEYANOES. xxi most always weak and slow, are often cruelly overdriven by for- eigners. The traveller should bear in mind that the average charge of 2-3d. per Engl. mile is very inadequate remuneration to the Skydspligtige, or peasants who are bound to supply the horses, and that on this account also it is unfair to overdrive them. As a rule 12-15 min., and sometimes more, should be allowed for each Eng- lish mile. Most of the principal roads in Norway have been re- constructed of late years, and are now as good and level as is con- sistent with the hilly character of the country. Some of the still existing older roads are extraordinarily hilly, and of course very trying to the horses, but they are certainly more picturesque than the new. The roads are made by government, but maintained by the peasantry through whose land they pass, often entailing on them a heavy burden. At intervals of 10-25 kilometres there are Skydsstationer (pron. stashooner), or farmhouses (Gaarde) whose proprietors are bound to supply travellers with horses whenever required, and most of whom also provide board and lodging. Those stations where the proprietor is bound to have several horses always in readiness, and is liable to a fine if he keeps the traveller waiting for more than 1/4-1/2 hour, are called Faste Station- er (1. e. ‘fixed stations’, where a ‘fixed’ number of horses is always in readiness), or usually by English travellers ‘fast stations’ (indi- cated in the Handbook by at). Another class of stations, now rare, except in little frequented districts, is the Tilsigelse-Stationer (or Shifter), the owners of which are bound to procure horses from the neighbouring farmers. For the ‘Tilsigelse’ (from tilsige, ‘to tell to’, ‘send to’), or trouble of sending for horses, the station- master ('Skydsskaffer) is entitled to 14 o. for each. At these stations, which are justly called ‘slow’ by English travellers by way of anti- thesis to the ‘fast’, the charges are very low, but the traveller may often be kept waiting for several hours. These annoying delays are obviated by sending Forbud (‘previous message’) to stations of this class, and the same remark applies to ‘slow’ boat-stations. The ‘Forbud’ must be sent at least three hours before the time at which horses are required, or better on the previous day. If there is reg- ular postal communication on the road, the message may be sent by letter or post-card; or it may be sent by any one preceding the traveller on the same route. Otherwise it is sent by post-card, which the post-office transmits to the nearest post-town or post- station, after which it is forwarded from station to station at a fixed charge for the les Hest which the messenger rides) Among other regulations, it may be mentioned that each pass- enger drawn by one horse is allowed 64lbs. of luggage. If two per- sons travel together in a Stolkjoerre, for which they pay a fare and + The Forbudseddel, or message, may be expressed as follows: -— Paa Skydsskt'j'tet (. . . name the station) bestc'lles en Hest (to Hesle, etc.) xxii III. OONVEYANCES. a half, they are allowed 24lbs. of luggage only. Lastly it should be noted that in hilly districts the ‘Skydsskafi’er’ is frequently au- thorised to charge for more than the actual distance. Every station- master is bound to keep aDagbog (Skydsbog) or day-book, in which the traveller enters his orders and records his complaints if he has any to make. On the first page of the ‘Dagbog’ is always entered the distance to the nearest station in each direction, whether by road or by small boat, so that the traveller will have little difficulty in calculating the fare. Strictly speaking the fare may be exacted before the hirer starts, but it is usually paid at the end of the stage, when the ‘Gut’, or girl (Jentc) who takes his place, receives a gra- tuity of 15-20 0. per station. The ‘Gaardskarl’, or man who helps to harness the horse, does not expect a gratuity. The following table shows the fares exigible at the different kinds of posting— stations: ~— Land-Skyds. . . Fast stations in the towns and Slow stations in the country. in the country (new unim- E; For 1 Person 2 Pers. For 1 Person 2 Pers. ‘is’ s a a - s as s 0' si s <» 3 00 "-1: Tag "-1: 00 .5: "-12 "4;: -"= ‘if: is as as as as, 8,2 3a Y‘ .2 §5 35 s a; .2 .2 as g z: a g H c: o 3 :8 0'5 H “3 cv 2 c8 88 Em E 2&3 21w Di ‘LT-1m Kr. Kr. Kr. Kr Kr Kr. Kr. Kr. 1 0,08 0,10 0,10 0,14 0,15 0,17v 0,17 0,25 2 0,16 0,19 0,20 0,28 0,30 0,33 0,34 0,40 3 0.24 0,29 0,30 0.42 0,45 0,50 0,51 0,74 4 0,32 0,38 0,40 0,56 0,60 0,66 0,68 0,98 5 0,40 0,42; 0,28 0,3 0,78 1,23 6 0 48 0 5 0, ' . 0,9 0, , a 1, 7 7 r 0150 0107 0,70 0,98 1,05 1,16 1,19 1,72 8 0,64 0,72 0,? 1,13 1,30 1,36 1,3? 9 0,72 0,8 0., 2 5 , 1.53 2, 10 0,80 0,95 1,00 1110 11. 1,05 1,70 2,45 The old tariff, still in force in some of the remoter districts, is lower than the above. For the transmission of passengers and their luggage by boat (Baadskyds or Vandslcyds) the regulations are similar. The follow- ing table shows the usual fares: —- med Karjol (Karjoler) elle'r Stolkjcerre (Stolkjcerre/r') Mandagen den 20. Juli, Formt'ddagen (Eftei'mt'ddagen) Klokken at (to, tre, etc.). Paa same Tt'd varm F'r'okost for en Person (to, tre Personer). Date & Place. . Signature. The station-master may dismiss the horses if the traveller is more than 2% hours late, and after the first hour of waiting he may exact Ventepenge or ‘waiting-money’. III. OONVEYANCES. xxiii Baad-Skyds. Fast stations in the towns and _' Slow stations in the country. in the country (new tariff; old :3 tariff lower). L4 3 s... e s s s s 3 B E B 5 K E B ‘Z3 8 Z.’ 3 E ‘Q g o g o 5 o g ‘3 g 8 g O as‘ i=9 ‘500 Es" 8w 8w 0: co <1 or on <1‘ 1 0,15 0,22 0,29 0,21 0,31 0,41 2 0,29 0,44 0,58 0,41 0,62 0,82 3 0,44 0,66 0,87 0,62 0,93 1,23 4 0,58 0,88 1,16 0.82 1,24 1,64 5 0,73 1,10 1,45 1,03 1,55 2,05 6 0,87 1,32 1,74 1,23 1,86 2,46 7 1,04 1,54 2,03 1,44 2,17 2,87 8 1,18 1,76 - 2,32 1,64 2,48 3,28 9 1,33 1,98 2,61 1,86 2,79 3,69 10 1,45 2,20 2,90 2,05 3,10 4,10 Travellers accompanied by a guide may always employ him as a rower, and thus dispense with one of the boat’s usual crew. Each rower generally wields (or ‘sculls’ with) two oars. A ‘boat manned with two rowers is therefore called a Fi'rri'ng, or four—oared boat, one manned with three rowers a Serving, and with four rowers an Ottering. The number of persons accommodated depends on the size of the boat. For a large party, or where speed is desired, three or four rowers had better be taken. Farther information, if desired, will be found in the Lommereise'route( ‘pocket travelling itinerary’), published every summer by Abelsted of Ohristiania (price 1kr. 30 0.). The exact fare, however, may always be ascertained by en- quiry on the spot, and attempts at extortion are happily rare. Pedestrian Tours. Neither Norway nor Sweden is suitable for long walking excursions, as the distances are too great, and the points of interest lie too far apart. Many of the expeditions re— commended above to the notice of pedestrians and mountaineers may be accomplished on horseback, but there is no lack of glacier— excursions and mountain-ascents which can be undertaken on foot only. In mountainous regions, as well as on high roads, the‘ natives usually reckon the distances by Norwegian miles. On an ordinary road a mile may easily be walked in two hours, but on rough ground three hours at least should be allowed for each mile. IV. Luggage. Equipment. Tourist Club. Luggage. Travellers who intend to perform the whole of their tour in Norway and Sweden by railway and steamboat need not restrict the quantity of their luggage, but those who purpose t_ra-' yelling by carriole should, if possible, limit‘ themselves to 30-40, lbs., and this had better be divided between a small and strong xxiv IV. LUGGAGE . wooden box and a carpet-bag, to which may be added a wallet or game-pouch to be used on occasional walking excursions. If long expeditions on horseback are contemplated, 32 lbs. must be the limit, that being the quantity (2 ‘Lispund’) which a rider may carry with him; if that limit be exceeded, a :sumpter-horse (Packhest, with a Klevsadel) which will carry 192 lbs. (12 ‘Lipsund’) must be hired. A soft or compressible portmanteau is not recommended, as the ‘Skydsgut’, who is sometimes a ponderous adult, always sits on the luggage strapped on behind. A supply of stout cord and straps will be found useful, and a strong umbrella is indispensable. Equipment. The traveller is recommended to avoid the common error of overburdening himself with ‘articles de voyage’, eatables,' or anything not absolutely necessary. On all the ordinary routes, and even in some of the remoter places, tolerable food can almost always be obtained. Tea and essence of coffee will sometimes be found useful in the remoter districts. Spirits are not to be had at the inns, but good Cognac may be purchased at any of the large towns for 4-5 kr. per bottle. A superabundance of clothing should also be eschewed. Two strong, but light Tweed suits, a moderate supply of underclothing, a pair of light shoes for steamboat and carriole use, and a pair of extra-strong Alpine boots for moun- taineering ought to suffice. Lastly a couple of square yards of stout waterproof material. to be used as a wrapper for coats and rugs, or for covering the knees in wet weather, will complete the traveller’s equipment. The aprons (Skvcetlwder) of the carrioles, it may here be observed, are often dilapidated, so that a waterproof coat and rug are very desirable. Visitors to Lapland and the Swe- dish Norrland should also be provided with veils to keep off the gnats. Ladies travelling in Norway should also dress as simply, strongly, and comfortably as possible, eschewing all superfluous ornament. Those who aspire to the rougher mountain tours should be provided with stout gaiters or leggings. Tourist Club. The Norske Turistforem'ng (‘tourist union’) ex— tends its useful sphere of operations throughout almost every part of Norway. These consist in building refuge-huts, improving moun- tain paths, establishing tariffs for guides and boats, and otherwise watching over the interests of travellers. The subscription is only 4 kr. per annum, for which a copy of the ‘Aarbog’ will be sent to the traveller through the medium of any Norwegian address he names. The members are always received with marked courtesy in the mountainous regions, and enjoy a preference in the case of a competition for accommodation at the club huts. Travellers may enrol themselves at Ghristiania ( W. Schmidt’s, p. 2), Bergen, Thrond- hjem, Fagernaes (p. 90), etc. The club-button (Klupknap), which members wear as a distinctive badge, costs 80 a. more. Gnrnns usually receive 4 kr. per day, and on the expiry of their engagement have to return home at their own cost. V. HOTELS AND INNS. Xxv V. Hotels and Inns. Except in the capitals and a few of the larger towns, hotels of the first class are rare in Sweden and still rarer in Norway, but second class hotels and unpretending country inns are abundant in proportion to the population, affording, as a rule, cheap and very tolerable accommodation. The hotels at Ohristiania, Christian- sand, Bergen , and Throndhjem are all as expensive as similar houses in Germany or Switzerland. In Stockholm, on the other hand, the charges at the three principal hotels are reasonable, and in several of the other Swedish towns (Karlstad, Linkoping, Norr- keping, Malme, etc.) there are excellent hotels with very moderate charges. At the stations or wayside inns in Norway the usual charge for a bed is 80 o. to 1kr., for breakfast 1, supper 1, and dinner 11/2-2 kr., while the servant (generally a Pige or Jente) is amply satisfied with a fee of 30-40 a. from each person (Norw. Drikke- penge, Sw. drickspengar). The country inns (ga'stgifvaregdrdar) in Sweden are usually cleaner than those in Norway, but in the less frequented districts they afford very poor accommodation. In remote places the traveller is sometimes asked to share a room and even a bed with another. In Norway travellers are generally conveyed to or from the railway station or steamboat-quay by the hotel-omnibus— es free of charge. Tables d’hote are almost unknown in Sweden, and are rare in Norway, except in the principal towns. On board of all the steam— boats, however, they are the rule. All the Swedish and Norwegian hotels have a restaurant attached to them, where most of the natives dine and sup a la carte. The Smiirgdsbord or Bra'nnvinsbord, where relishes of various kinds, bread-and-butter, and brandy and liqueurs are served by way of a stimulant to the appetite, is an institution peculiar to Sweden. The following dishes are among the commonest in the Matseddel or Spz'seseddel (bill of fare) at the restaurants: —— NORWEGIAN. ENGLISH. SWEDISH. NORWEGIAN. ENGLISH. SWEDISH. Suppe Soup Soppa. Aal Eel til Kie'dsuppe Broth Buljong Gjedde Pike Gaclda Kjed Meat Ko'tt Zrreter Trout Foreller kogt boiled Icokt Torsk Cod Torslc stegt roasted stekt Silo! Herring Sill Oxekjed Beef Oxko'tt Grensager Vegetables Gro‘nsaker Kalvesteg Roast veal Kalfstek Banner Beans Boner Koteletter Cutlets Kgteletter JErte-r Peas Arter Faarsteg Roast mut- F rstek Potetes _ ton ; Kartofler Potatoes Botates Flesk Pork Svinko'tt 1E9 Eggs Agg Raadyrsteg Roast veni- Rddjurstek Pandekager Pancakes Pankakor son 0st Cheese 0st Rendyrsteg Roast rein- Renstek Smer Butter Smo'r deer Kager Cakes Kakor Fjcerkrce Poultry Eiaderfd Redrn'n Red wine Rott'vin And Duck_ And 'Hvidvt'n White winelilvr'dt'vin Gaas Goose Gds Bl (short) Ale Ol, bier. Fisk ’ Fish Fisk xxvi V. HOTELS AND INNS. Beer is the beverage usually drunk (halo Flask or halfva bu-telj, 20-25 0.), but good Bordeaux and other wines are procurable at the better inns and on board all the steamers. Porter has also come into vogue of late years, particularly at Gothenburg and Stockholm. Spirit-drinking, which used to prevail to an enormous extent, has been greatly diminished by recent — LIQUoR Laws. In Norway, where the liquor-traffic was formerly al- most entirely free, the consumption of raw spirits amounted in 1833 to 28 quarts per head of the entire population. Owing to the raising of the duty and to the efforts of temperance societies the quantity was reduced in 1843 to 17l/2 pints per head, and in 1871-73 to about 9 pints per head per annum. In 1874 and 1875 the average consumption rose to nearly 12 pints for each person per annum, but the recent introduction of a ‘per- missive bill‘ has again caused a great reduction and is said to have been attended with the most beneficial results. By the laws of 9th June, 1866, 3rd May, 1871, and 22nd May, 1875, the authorities of each district may, by a majority, refuse to grant any license for the retail sale of spirits within their district, or they may grant a monopoly of the spirit-trade to a company which is bound to pay the whole of its profits to the municipality, after deduction of expenses and 5 per cent interest. The former option has been exercised in many country-districts, with the result that drunkenness is now almost unknown and that poverty, crime, and disease are greatly diminished. The other alternative has been adopted in many of the larger towns, such as Bergen and Christiansand, with the result that drunkenness and crime are much less frequent than formerly, and that a considerable revenue is yielded to the municipality for the support of the improvident classes. The sale of spirits is entirely prohibited on Sundays and saints‘ days, and also on Saturdays and the eves of festivals after 5 p.m. —- The laws restricting the sale of wine and beer are similar, but of a much less stringent character. In Sweden the leading statute regulating the retail spirit-trade was passed on 24th August, 1877, partly in consequence of the success which for several years previously had attended the ‘Gothenburg licensing sys- tem’. Its provisions are similar to those of the Norwegian statutes, and by § 3 it is farther provided that food shall always be sold at spirit-shops. By §§ 10, 14 it is enacted that the authorities of a district may either sell one or more licenses, in accordance with the requirements of the place, by auction to the highest bidder, or to a company which shall pay the whole of its surplus profits to the municipality, or they may by a majority refuse to grant any license for the retail sale of spirits. Again, by § 17, no license Will be granted to any one in a town, except on his undertaking to pay duty on at least 1200 Kanno'r at the rate of 25 a. per Kanna (2%. quarts) of spirits sold for consumption elsewhere, or, at the rate of 40 a. per kanna of spirits consumed on the premises. The mini- mum quantity on which duty must be paid in the countr is 600 Kannor. A license in a town, if granted at all, therefore costs 300-480 kr., and in the country one-half of that sum. By § 28 spirit-shops are closed in the country, and in towns they may be closed by order of the authorities, on Sundays and festivals. —- In October, 1877, the municipality of Stock- holm, under § 10 of the statute, granted the sole license to retail spirits to a company similar to that at Gothenburg, and the police statistics show that drunkenness and crime have already decreased. Travellers requiring to leave a country inn early in the morning should make all their arrangements and give their orders on the previous night, as the people are generally very slow in their move- ments. When lodging is obtained at the house of a ‘Lensmand’ or a pastor, the traveller may either ask for the bill, or pay at least as much as would have been charged at an inn. In some cases, VI. NATIONAL CHARACTER. xxvii however, all remuneration is refused. —— Cafe's are almost unknown’ in Norway, but are to be found in all the larger Swedish towns. One of their specialties is the famous Swedish punch, a mixture of rum or arrak with lemon-juice and sugar, which is drunk as a liqueur and undiluted. With ice in summer it is a palatable, but not very wholesome beverage. VI. National Character. The Swedes are generally pleasant and courteous in their man- ners, and very hospitable and obliging to strangers, but by ordinary tourists, who traverse the country by railway and steamboat, they are seldom seen to advantage. With the Norwegians, on the other hand, whose country, in pleasant, old-world fashion, must be explored chiefly by driving, riding, or walking, the traveller will have ample opportunity of becoming better acquainted. Principal Forbes, the learned author of a standard work on Norway, calls the natives ‘a free, intelligent, and tine-hearted people’, and the definition is still correct, particularly with regard to those who are somewhat removed from the influen- ces of modern ‘civilisation’. Sincerity, honesty, and freedom from conventional cant are the chief national virtues. The outward forms of politeness are very little observed. On arriving at an inn or a station the traveller is seldom welcomed by the host or hostess, and on his departure he is treated with the same apparent neglect. The omission of such attentions arises partly from the independent position of many of the station-masters, with whom innkeeping is quite a subsidiary branch of business, and partly from the national unobtrusiveness and simplicity of character. Of true politeness and genuine kindness there is seldom any lack. The democratic char- acter of the people manifests itself in the freedom with which the peasant, the guide, and the Skydsgut seat themselves at the same table with the traveller. If the latter, however, invites his guide or Skydsgut to share his meals, he must pay for them at the same rate as for himself. The invitation (which is by no means obliga- tory) is accepted with a certain amount of dignity, and not unusually responded to by the attendant’s ordering an extra bottle of wine or beer. On receiving a gratuity, the recipient usually shakes hands with the donor in token of his gratitude. Persons who object to such demonstrations had better abstain from visiting Norway. The Norwegians are uniformly well educated and intelligent, often un- affectedly pious and devout, and generally a God-fearing, law— abiding people. Occasionally, however, their piety degenerates into superstition and mysticism, as in the case of the ‘Haugianer’. From what has already been said the traveller will rightly conclude that extortion, dishonesty, and incivility are rarely met with in Norway. In some cases, in parts of Thelemarken for example, somewhat high charges are asked on the ground that they xxviii VII. MAPS. are not higher than would be paid at Ghristiania, but they are rarely insisted on if the traveller remonstrates. Lastly it may be observed that in many cases in which travellers have had cause to complain of incivility or overcharging, the offence has been oc- casioned by the unreasonableness of their requirements and still oftener by their own want of politeness and consideration. VII. Maps. In maps of an extensive, but sparsely peopled country like the Scandinavian peninsula there is abundant space for names, and as there is no lack of these (see below, ‘Nomenclature’) the traveller will often be misled by their apparent importance. In mountain— ous and remote districts particularly, each farm-house and even many insignificant ‘saeters’ or chalets are named in almost as bold type as Christiania itself. In the maps in the Handbook the names of unimportant ‘gaards’ have been omitted, but those of churches carefully marked. Where several different names are applied to the same place that most commonly used is given. In NORWAY a series of Ordnance Maps, the publication of which began in 1826, on the scale of 1 :200,000, includes as yet only the southern half of Norway and the Tromse-Amt (p. 251). These maps are executed entirely in black, and are often indis- tinct, as most of the plates have suffered from frequent use. A series of 200 new ordnance maps on a scale of 1 : 100,000, called the ‘Topogmfisk Kart over Kongeriget Norge’ (water coloured blue, mountains shaded in chalk), and a ‘Generallcart over det sydlige Norge’, on a scale of 1 :400,000 (in three colours; to be completed in 18 sheets) are now in progress, but in each case only a few sheets have as yet been issued. The maps of these two series exhibit a good many striking discrepancies. For travelling purposes the most satisfactory map that has as yet been issued is the Reiseka'rt over det Sydlz'ge _& No'rdtige Norge, on a scale of 1 :800,000, pre- pared from official sources by Lieutenant Nissen (published by Cammermeyer of Christiania; six plates, 11/2 kr. each). In this map the ‘skyds - stations’, the distances between them, and other points useful to tourists are carefully noted. Lastly we may men- tion ‘Haflfner & Dahl’s Kart over Finma'rkens Amt’ (1:400,000; two plates). Of SWEDEN, on the other hand, there exists a most satisfactory, though still uncompleted, ordnance map, called the ‘Generalstabens Karta 6fve'r Sverige’ (water coloured blue), on a scale of 1 : 100,000. The southern provinces, extending as far as Gefle and Letaforss, will occupy 102 plates, about half of which are published. -— An- other excellent map is the ‘Generalka'rta b'fver S'verige’ (1 : 100,000), in three plates, of which the two southernmost have been issued. —- We may also mention the ‘Lc'inskartor’ (1 :200,000) and the ‘Atlas 6fver Sveriges Lc'in och Stc'idcr’ by Dr.. M. Roth. VIII. TOPOGRAPHICAL NOMENCLATURE. xxix VIII. Topographical Nomenclature. In Norway and Sweden, the former in particular, the spelling and pronunciation of the names of places is very variable. In Sweden the modified a and o are written it and 6, but in Norway usually a; and a, while it and 6 also sometimes occur, the latter being used by some writers to indicate the short sound of the letter. Again in Norway aa, au, ou, and o are frequently inter- changed, as in Laag, Laug, Loug, or Log, ‘river’, and Haug or Houg, ‘hill’. The vowels e, u, ei, at, and e (sometimes also u) are also frequently interchanged, while their pronunciation is nearly identical, so that the same word will sometimes assume such various written forms as Synjereim, Sennerheim, or Sennerum, Bredheirn or Bream, Mazraak or Merok, Eid/‘jord or Hi/‘jord. The letter d in combination with other words or at the end of a word is usually silent, and is consequently often omitted in writing (Meheia for Medheia, Haukeli for Haukelid, etc.). Lastly it may be observed that in many words 9 and k, when hard, are used indiffer- ently, as Agershus or Akershus, Egersund or Ekersund, Vig or Vik. The article en or et (see the grammar in the appendix) is often added in common speech to names which appear in the map with- out it (Krogle-ven, Krogleo, etc.). In the Danish or Norwegian language the letter w does not occur, but in Swedish 1) and w are constantly interchanged, the latter having of late come more into vogue. In both countries the traveller will often be struck by the simplicity and primitiveness of the nomenclature, names signify- ing merely ‘the creek’, ‘the promontory’, ‘the lake’, ‘the end of the lake’, ‘the river’, ‘the river valley’, ‘the valley river’ recurring very frequently. Farm-houses again usually take their names from their proprietors, and the converse is also often the case. The following is a list of several Norwegian words of frequent re- currence (or and 0 being placed last in the alphabet): — Aak, 0k, probably con- Fiord,bay, arm of thesea. Moria, Mark, forest; also tracted from Aaker or Fos, waterfall. a ‘mountain-tract’. Ager, field, cultivated Gaard,farm-house(Engl. Nut,mountain-top, peak. land. ‘yard’) Noes, nose, promontory. Aar, from Aa, river. Gald, rocky slope. Odde, tongue of land, Aas, ridge. Groend, group of chalets. promontory. Aur, see fire. Haug, Houg, hill. Os, mouth, estuary. Brae, glacier. Hei, Heia, barren height. Plads, hamlet, clearing. Bu, Be, ‘Gaard’, hamlet. Helle, slab of stone, rock, Prrestegaard, parsonage. By, town, village. cliff. Ragja,Reia,Reie,parish. Bygd, parish, district, Hyl, Hel, hollow, basin. Soeter,‘chalet’,mountain- hamlet. Kirke, church. farm, cowherds’ hut. ,Dal, valley. Klee, cliff. Stul, Stet, see ‘Saeter’. Egg, corner, edge, ridge. Kvam, Qoam, ravine. "’ Stue, wooden house, Etde, isthmus, neck of Laag, Log, Laug, Long, seeter, hut. land. river. Sand, strait, ferry. Elv, river. Lykke, hamlet, garden. Thveit (Eng. ‘thwaite'), Fjoere, beach. Mark, field. clearing. Fjel‘d, mountain. M0, M09, plain, dale. Tind, peak. xxx IX. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. Tjoern, Tjern, or Kjoern, Ur, rubble, loose stones. l’el, sandy slope. small mountain-lake, Vaag, bay, harbour. b’, island. ‘tarn‘. Vand, Vain, water, lake. Ue,0'y,peninsula,tongue Toft, site of a house, plot Vang, meadow, pasture. of land. of ground (the English Vas, contracted genit. of fire, 0310-, alluvial or and Scotch provincial ‘Vand’. gravelly soil, tongue word ‘toft‘. Vig, Vik, creek. of land. Many places have two or more different names, one usually applying to the church, another to the principal ‘gaard’, a third to the posting-station, and so on7 the number of names being some- times in an inverse ratio to the importance of the place. IX. 0n the Physical Geography of Scandinavia. Situation. Geological Formation. Coast Line. Scandinavia, the largest peninsula in Europe, embracing the kingdom of Norway on the W. and N. sides, Sweden on the E. and S., and part of Russia to the NE, is about 296,500 Engl. sq. M. in area. It extends from S.S.W. to N.N.E. between 55° 20’ and 71° 10’ N. latitude, being upwards of 1100 Engl. M. in length. Between the Gulf of Bothnia and the NW. coast its breadth is about 260 Engl. M., and towards the S. its breadth gradually in— creases, though at the point where the Throndhjem Fjord forms a deep indentation it narrows to 160 M. Farther to the S., in latitude 60° (that of Christiania and Upsala), the width increases to 435 M., beyond which Norway terminates in a rounded penin- sula ending in Cape Lindesnaes (58° 59’), while the S. part of Sweden forms another peninsula to the SE. of the Christiania Fjord, gradually narrowing, and terminating in the promontory of Falsterbo (55° 20’) near Copenhagen. The entire coast-line of the peninsula, disregarding its innumerable indentations, measures 2060 M. in length, the part between Cape Lindesnaes and Vadse alone measuring 1250 M. -. The peninsula contains no distinct mountain-ranges like those occurring in most other countries, but mainly consists in its W. part of a vast elevated plateau, descending abruptly to the western fjords and sloping gradually down to the plains of Sweden and the Gulf of Bothnia on the E. side. Roughly speaking, a line drawn parallel with the W. coast, about 50-60 Engl. M. inland, marks the boundary of the mountain plateau, the W. margin of which is deeply indented with innumerable bays and creeks, and fringed with a belt of countless rocky islands. The latter are known as Skjazr (SW. chair), and the island-belt as the Slcjcergaard (skiirgdrd), To different parts of the mountain-plateau are applied the names of Fjeld (‘fell’), Heidar (‘heights’), and Vidder (‘widths’, barren IX. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. xxxi expanses), and in the N. part of the peninsula Kjeler (‘mountain- ranges), and from it rise at intervals rounded and occasionally pointed peaks of considerable height. The Mountains are composed almost entirely of primary rocks, presenting nearly the same form as when originally solidified, and rarely overlaid with more recent formations, so that for the geolo- gist they possess the charm of the most hoar antiquity. These primary rocks consist of granite, gneiss, mica, horneblende slate, quarzite, clay slate, limestone, and dolomite, disposed in the form of strata, corresponding with which are occasional well-defined layers of more recent slate-formations and particularly of lime- stone. At places, notably in the Romsdal, or Valley of the Rauma, the gneiss, the oldest of these rocks, towers in most imposing pinnacles, 5000-6000 ft. in height, unencumbered by any later formations. That valley extends from the Moldefjord to the S.E., intersecting the pure gneissrock, which rises on each side in almost perpendicular cliffs, 2000-3000 ft. in height, and is afterwards prolonged by the Gudbrandsdal descending to Lake Mjesen. In grandeur of rock-scenery, and in the purity of its formation, this magnificent valley is hardly inferior to the far-famed Yosemite Valley of the Sierra Nevada in California. About the year 1840 rocks of the Silurian Formation were discovered by geologists in the vicinity of the Christiania Fjord, and since that date other deposits of that period have been found in S'Itdne, Western Giitland, the island of Gotland, Herjeddalen, and Jemteland in Sweden, and also on the banks of Lake Mjesen and in Throndhjems Stift in Norway, but nowhere of great extent. The largest Silurian basin in the peninsula is that of the Storsjii in J emteland, a lake of 2580 Engl. sq. M. in area. One of the most instructive sections of the country is formed by the route from Sundsvall in Sweden to Ostersund on the Storsjii and Throndhjem in Norway. The primitive crystalline rocks of Jemteland are first replaced by limestone, extending to the E. bank of the lake, where the Silurian formations begin._ These stretch westwards to the great gnountain backbone of Sweden and _Norway. On this route rises Aresltutan, the highest mountain in Sweden (p. 367), part of the base of which on the E. and W. sides belongs to the Silurian formation, while the primary rocks, con- sisting of quartzite, horneblende, mica-slate, and gneiss, protrude through it all the way to the summit. From this vantage-ground we obtain an excellent idea of the character of the Scandinavian mountains. Many of the hills, rounded and worn by glacier-action, are almost entirely bare, or clothed only with lichens (Cetraria cucullata ni'valz's, Cronz'cularia ochroleuca, etc.), and presentan exceedingly sombre and dreary appearance. The slopes of the intervening basins are often well wooded, butvthe lower plateaux are mainly covered with vast tracts of lake and marsh. xxxii IX. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. Coal occurs here and there in the peninsula. The coal-measures of Helsingborg at the S. extremity of the peninsula are of con- siderable value and extent. On the island of Ande, one of the Vesteraalen group, in latitude 69 0, a bed of coal was also recently discovered at the mouth of the Ramsaa, but investigation has proved it to be of little value. The condition, however, of its organic re- mains proves that the island must have been subjected to violent convulsions about the period when the coal was formed. Under the sea extends a thick seam of coal, above which lie strata of sandstone, clay-slate, and later coal, extending into the island. The island must therefore have at one period been more extensive than now, and thickly clothed with vegetation, after which it ap- pears to have been submerged and then upheaved anew. The configuration of the mainland must at one time have differ- ed greatly from its present form. That it was once higher above the sea than now, is proved by the formation of the coast with its water and ice-worn fjords, straits, and isthmuses (Eid). On the other hand the sea appears within recent centuries to have receded at places. This was first observed by Celsius (d. 1744) and Linne' (d. 1778), who caused marks to be made on the rocks at Kalmar and Gefie with a view to measure the retrocession of the sea, by the German naturalist Hell at Varde in 1769, and by L. o. Buch, the geologist, in 1807. Throughout a vast tract, extending from Spitzbergen to about latitude 62°, the whole country is ascertained to be gradually rising, or the sea to be receding. In the Altenfio'rd, near Hammerfest, there are ancient coast-lines 620 ft. above the present sea-level, and others gradually decreasing in height extend all the way to Throndhjem and still farther S., while at Throndhjem itself a rise of 20 ft. within 1000 years is well authenticated. At Torned, at the head of the Gulf of Bothnia,o the ground is even said to have risen 5 ft. in a century; in the Aland Islands, farther S., a rise of 3 ft. within the same time has been observed; while at Karlskrona no change of level has been detected. To the S. of Karlskrona, on the other hand, a gradual depression of the land or encroachment of the sea appears to be taking'place. These cal- culations are probably not very trustworthy, but careful measure- ments made at eleven different places between 1839 and 1865, proved that the average rise of the coast-line between Maascr and Ohristiania during that period was 1 foot. According to Kje'rulf, the most eminent of the Norwegian geologists, the elevation of the coast has taken place fitfully, as several facts tend to prove. Thus it will generally be observed that in all the Norwegian valleys and fjords there are several distinct terraces, between which there is ‘a sudden and well-defined dip, and that the old coast lines, with their heaps of debris , descend abruptly at their lower ends at an angle of 25-300. Again it will be noticed that the different water- levels on the rocks are marked by a kind of disintegrated pathway IX. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. xxxiii or furrow, each separated from its neighbour by a comparatively intact and unworn surface. ' In glancing at the Glaciers of Norway, the traveller will ob- serve that all the most important are situated to the S. of latitude 67 0. Even so far N. as Novaja Semlja, in lat. 72 0, there are no glaciers of considerable size. The most extensive is the Jostedals- hrce (p. 102), lying between lat. 610 and 62°, 515 Eng]. sq. M. in area, and the largest glacier in Europe. In form it resembles an enormous roof, from which a number of offshoots descend to within 150-200 ft. of the sea-level. A similar ice-mantle is that of the Folgefond (p. 54), a little to the S. of lat. 60°, and another of vast extent is that of Svartisen (p. 233), within the Arctic Circle. The upper parts of these glaciers form immense and comparatively level expanses of dazzling ice and snow, uninterrupted by moraines or crevasses, except where their ramifications descend into the valleys, and rarely broken by peaks rising above them. These plateaux of ice accordingly correspond with the mountain-con- figuration peculiar to Norway, and on a small scale they afiord an idea of the character of the glaciers which once covered the whole country. Of that period numerous traces still exist in Scandinavia as well as on the Baltic coasts. Striated rocks are everywhere observable, from the coast-line upwards; the debris of moraines is distributed over every part of the country; and the soil formed by glacier-friction new forms good cultivable land and affords abun- dant material for brick-making. ERRATIC BLooKs seem to have been first deposited in S. Sweden by the glaciers on their south- ward course, and they abound in N. Germany, sometimes lying a few feet only below the surface of the soil, sometimes clustered together with sand, mud ,Oand gravel, and rising into hills of 70- 185 ft. in height, called Asar in Sweden , and known in Ireland and Scotland as escars and kames. The coast is indented with innumerable Fjords, almost all of which have several minor ramifications. Similar indentations occur in the precipitous W. coast of N. America, extending northwards from the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and on the S. American coast, to the S. of the Island of Chiloe, and on a smaller scale there are numerous fjords on the W. and E. coasts of Greenland, in Spitz- bergen, Novaja Semlja, and on the W. coasts of Iceland, Scotland, and Ireland. All these fjord-formations cease within 40-50° from the equator, and at the same time they generally correspond with the rainiest regions of the countries where they occur. The E. coast of Scandinavia was probably also at one time indented with fjords, to which the numerous inland lakes once belonged, but which have gradually been filled up by the alluvial deposits of the rivers. That the fjords have been formed, as would naturally be supposed, by the erosive action of ice and water, seems to be disproved by the fact that-they are often much deeper than the sea‘ beyond their BAEnExER‘s Norway and Sweden. 2nd Edit. - c IXXIV IX. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. mouths. The Sognefjord, for example, is no less than 4100 ft. deep at places. The fact appears rather to be that these basins existed before the glacier era. They are generally narrow and deep, and with the exception of those in E. Finmarken, they lie at right angles to the axis of the mountains. On the banks of the fjords usually extends a strip of fertile and sheltered land which has attracted a considerable population. The immense and intricate archipelago of the Skjmrgaard (slcdirgdrd), or island—belt, which affords admirable shelter to the coasting steamers, accompanies nearly the whole of the Scandina- vian coast from Vadse to Haparanda. The only considerable inter- vals are in the Arctic Ocean near the North Cape, off the mouth of the Foldenfjord (641/20), ofi Jredern and Lister (between 58° and 59°), and opposite the coasts of Haltand and Sloane in Sweden. Within the Arctic Circle are a considerable number of large islands, the Koala, on which Hammerfest is situated, the Seitand, Sure, Stjerne, Kaage, Ame, Varne, Ringsvadse, and Hoale; between the last and the mainland is the Tromse , with the town of that name; then Senjen and the Vesteraalenand Lofoden Islands. Of the last—named group the first is the Hinde, the largest island in Norway (644 Engl. sq. M.), to the S. of which there are others of considerable size. All these islands, particularly those near the Arctic Circle, are mountainous, and many of them present strik- ingly picturesque forms. Among the finest are the Hestmandse, Threnen, Loounden, Alstene with the ‘Seven Sisters’, and the sin- gular Torghaztta, all of which are described in the Handbook (pp. 228-232). - The great resource of the busy coast-population is the God Fishery, besides which the Herring, Oyster, and Lobster Fisheries and Seal Hunting yield a considerable revenue. The great fishing- banks of the Lofoden Islands are mentioned at p. 239. These fisheries support a population of no less than 100,000 souls. The annual yield of the cod-fishery is estimated at 1,300,000l., and that of the seal-hunting (Phoca vitulina) at 55,600l., while about a million and a half of lobsters are annually exported to England alone. Herrings formerly abounded near Stavanger, but disap- peared from 1784 to 1808, during which period cod were abundant in that neighbourhood. In 1808 the cod in their turn disappeared and the herring returned, but since 1869 the former have again been found in their old haunts. The shoals of cod and herring are usually attended by a kind of whale (Balenoptera musculus), which was formerly supposed to prey on the latter, but this is ascertained to be erroneous. The oyster-fishery is chiefly carried on on the S. coast near Kragere, and on the W. coast near Finnaas in Send- hordland, near Lindaas in Nordhordland, near Vestnazs in the Romsdalsfjord, by the Bjazre, and near Vigten in the Namsdal. The Salmon Fishery is also of considerable importance. Among the IX. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. 'xxxv most famous rivers are the Drammenselv, the Numedalslaag, the Ongneelv in Jaederen, the Suledalselv in Ryfylke, the Rauma and Drioa in the Romsdal, the Gula near Throndhjem, the Namsen in the Namsdal, and the Altenelo and Tana in Finmarken. ' These valuable resources of the coast-districts, compared with which the Opland or inland districts offer little or no attraction to settlers, have also given rise to the important MARITIME TRADE of Norway, the foundation of which was laid by the piratical Vikings (inhabitants of ‘Vikar’ or creeks), whose expeditions extended "to Constantinople, and who discovered Iceland, Greenland, and N. America (‘Vinland’) 500 years earlier than Columbus. On some of the fjords still exist the tumuli of these early navigators, who sometimes caused themselves to be buried along with their vessels. The commercial fleet of Norway now ranks next to those of Great Britain and the United States. Timber for shipbuilding purposes is abundant. The E. coast of the peninsula is less favourable for the purposes of navigation, especially as many of the harbours have altered their position or been rendered shallow by the gradual rise of the coast- line, and accordingly few of the vikings had their headquarters there. The coasting-trade of Stockholm, however, and the inland lake and canal-traffic are of considerable importance. Mountains, Lakes, and Rivers. Owing to the sudden descent of the mountains on the W. coast the streams on that side of the peninsula all have the character of boisterous torrents, while on the E. coast they take the form of long, narrow lakes, connected by rivers and often by waterfalls. The mountains in the northernmost part of the peninsula, border— ing on Russia, rarely exceed 1000 ft. in height, but they become loftier as we proceed towards the S.W., rising to most imposing dimensions on the Lyngenfjord (p. 251) and at the head of the Saltenfiord (p. ‘235), where the Sulitjelma forms the boundary between the sister kingdoms. To the S. of the great glacier-moun— tains of Svartisen (p. 233) the mountains decrease in height, and a number of large lakes send their waters eastwards to the Baltic, while the Namsen and Snaasen descend to the well-cultivated plains on the Throndhjem Fjord. Farther to the S. the mountains, such as the Jomafjcld, Kjelhaugen, Areskutan in Sweden, and the Syltoppe, again attain a height of 4000-5000 ft., while the islands off the coast contain mountains of similar height. In lati- tude‘630 the main range divides, the backbone of the peninsula continuing to run southwards, while a branch diverges to the W. nearly at a right angle. In the central range rise the Oster and Vester Dalelf, which afterwards unite and descend to the 8.12. to the Gulf of Bothnia. Adjoining the same range lies the Fmmund— Sja, ‘out of which flows the Fcmiundselv, afterwards called the 0* xxxvi IX. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. Klarelf, and falling into Lake Venern, whence it descends under the name of the Giitaelf to the Kattegat. A little to the N. of the Faemund-Sje lies the Aursund-Sje, the source of the Glommen, the largest river in Norway, which forms the imposing Sarpsfos at Sarpsborg and falls into the Skager Rak at Fredrikstad. Near the same lake rises the Gula, which descends to the N.W. to Thrond- hjem, and through the valleys of these two rivers runs the impor- tant railway from Throndhjem to the copper-mines of Reros and Lake Mjesen. Between the Faamund-Sje and the Glommen rise the lofty Hummelfficld, Tronfleld , and Elgepig, and between the Glommen and the Gudbrandsdal tower the isolated Rondane. To the N.W. of the latter stretches the Doorefjeld, culminating in the Snehcrtta (p. 203), formerly supposed to be the highest mountain in Norway. To the W. of this point, and to the N.W. of the Gud- brandsdal, stretch the gneiss mountains of the Romsdal, already mentioned. The mountains to the S. of the Romsdal are usually known as the Lang/"jelde, which include the Jostedalsbra’. with the Lodalskaupe and extend to the Horunge'rfjeld and the Jotunheim Mountains. To the last-named group belongs the Ymesfjeld, a huge mass of granite nearly 10 Engl. M. in breadth, culminating in the Galdhepig (p. 146), and surrounded by rocks of the tran- sition period. Farther to the S. lie the extensive Lakes Gjende, Tyin, and Bygdin, surrounded by imposing mountains, be- longing like the Horunger to the easily disintegrated ‘gabbro’ formation, and remarkable for picturesqueness of form. All these mountains are covered with perpetual snow, with the exception of the highest peaks, on which, owing to their precipitousness, the snow does not lie. The southern mountains of Norway, which also run from N.E. to S.W., are bounded by the Sognefjord on the N.W., by the Ohristiania Fjord on the S.W., and by a line drawn on the E. side from the Fillefjeld to Christiania. Between the Sognefjord and the Hardanger Fjord are the isolated plateaux of the Vosseskavl, the Hardanger Jekul. and the Hallingskaro, rising above the snow- line. The Hardanger Field is separated by the innermost branch of the Hardanger Fjord from the Folgefond (p. 54) , an extensive snow-clad mountain with several peaks. To the S.E. of the Har- danger-Fjord stretches the extensive Hardanger Vidde, with peaks 3000-4600 ft. in height, which gradually slope on the E. and S. sides. Farther to the ‘E. are the deep valleys of the picturesque region of Thelemarken, which frequently intersect each other. The E. outpost of the whole of this mountain-region is the Sloogs- horn, ‘to the N. of the Hallingdal. Farther to the E. are the Nume- dal, Hallingdal, and Valders valleys, descending towards the 8., beyond which we again meet with a number of transverse valleys, where the most fertile land in Norway is situated (such as Hade- IX. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. xxxvi-i land on the Randsfjord and Ringerike on the Tyrifjord). The mountains then descend to the plain of Jarlsberg and Laurvig. Among their last spurs are the Gausta and the Lidfield in Thele- marken, and the isolated Norefjeld, rising between Lake Krederen and the Eggedal. The mountains extending towards the S.E. next enter the Herjeidal and Vermeland in SWEDEN, where they contain valu- able iron ores, particularly in Vermeland, Dalame, and Vestman- land. The range next runs between Lakes Venern and Vettern, where it is called Tz'veden, and extends to the E. under the names of the Ll‘ydoskog and Kolmdrrden. It then intersects the province of Gotland and forms the plateau of Smdland to the S. of Lake Vettern. An important spur a little to the S. of that lake is the Taberg, a hill containing about 30 per cent of iron ore. The hills then gradually slope down to the plains of Skiine and Halland, where there are a few insignificant heights only. In the plains of Gotland rise the isolated Kinnekulte on Lake Venern , the Halle- berg, the Hunneberg, and the ()mberg. u The Swedish islands of Gottand and ()land contain no hills above 210 ft. in height. To a comparatively recent geological period belongs the SWE- DISH BASIN extending from the Skager Rak through Lakes Venern and Vettern to Lake Malaren, the land to the S. of which was probably once an island. These lakes are believed to have once formed a water—way to the Gulf of Finland, which again was pro— bably connected with the White Sea, and this theory seems to be borne out by the fact that a kind of crayfish found in the White Sea and Lake Venern does not exist in the Atlantic or in the Baltic. The modern canal-route connecting these lakes is de- scribed in RR. 36, 37, 39. The coast to the N. of Stockholm is flat and well wooded, and intersected by numerous rivers and long lakes, at the mouths of which lie a number of towns chiefly supported by the timber-trade. One of the most important lakes is the picturesque Siljan (p. 363), through which the 6sterdalelf flows. Below Falun that river joins the Vesterdalelf, and their united waters form a fine cascade at Elfkarleby. (0)1‘ the many other rivers the most important are the picturesque Anger'manelf (p. 369), the Lula-Elf (p. 370), and the Tomef'z—Elf. The last, the longest of all, is connected by a branch with the parallel river Kalix. Most of these eastern rivers are rather a series of lakes connected by rapids and waterfalls. The heavy rainfall in the mountain regions descending into the valleys, where the sun has not sufficient power to evaporate it, forms these lakes and extensive swamps, the overflow of which descends from basin to basin till it reaches the sea. The lower ends of these rivers age generally navigable for some distance. Steamboats ply on the Angermanelf and the Lule-Elf (pp. 369, 370). Ixxviii IX. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. Climate and Vegetation. TEMPERATURE. Judging from the degrees of latitude within which the peninsula is situated, one would expect the climate to be uniformly severe and inclement, but this is only the case on the E. coast and among the central mountains. The climate of the W. coast is usually mild, being influenced by the Atlantic and the Gulf Stream which impinges upon it. In the same latitude in which Franklin perished in the Arctic regions of America, and in which lies the almost uninhabitable region of E. Siberia, the water of these western fjords of Norway never freezes except in their upper extremities. As we proceed from W. to E., and in some degree even from N. to S., the temperate character of the climate changes, and the winters become more severe. The climate is perhaps most equable at Skudesnazs, near Stavanger, where the mean temperature of January is 34.70 Fahr., and that of July 55.4 : difference 20.7°. At Stockholm, on the other hand, the mean tem- perature of January is 248°, and that of July 635°: difference 387°. The difference is still greater in many places farther to the N., as at Jockmock (66° 36’ N. lat.; 925 ft. above the sea), where the January temperature is 3.2°, that of July 57.92°, and the diffe- rence 54.90°. The tract lying between the Varanger Fjord and the Gulf of Bothnia, the interior of Finmarken and Lapland, and the southern mountains above the height of 2300 ft., all have an an- nual mean temperature below the freezing point. Some of the other isothermal lines are curious. Thus the line which marks a mean January temperature of 32° Fahr. runs from the Lofoden Islands southwards, passing a little to the E. of Bergen and through the inner part of the Stavanger Fjord. It then turns to the SE. to Cape Lindesnzes, and thence to the N.E. towards the Christia- nia Fjord, and southwards to Gothenburg and Copenhagen. The line marking a mean January temperature of 23° passes through ‘Hammerfest, Saltdalen, Reros, Christiania, and Upsala. In the depth of winter, therefore, the Lofoden Islands are not colder than Copenhagen, or Hammerfest than Christiania. Again, while the mean temperature of the whole year at the North Cape is 356°, it is no higher at Ostersund in Jemtland, 552 Engl. M. farther south. Lastly, it may be mentioned that while the climate on the W. coast is comparatively equable throughout the year, that of the E. coast and the interior of the country is made up of a long, severe winter and a short and sometimes oppressively hot summer. The average temperature of the sea is 31/2-70 warmer than the air, being of course lower than that of the air in summer and higher in winter. The healthiest part of the peninsula is probably the island of Karma, where the death rate is only 12 per thousand. The average rate for Norway is 19, for Sweden 20 per thousand. RAINFALL. In the interior of Norway less rain falls than on the coast. In Sweden the greatest rainfall is between Gefle and Gothen- IX. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. xxxix burg. The mean rainfall in Sweden is 20.28 inches, that of Gothenburg 28.18, and that of the E. coast 16.88 inches. August is the rainiest month in Sweden , especially in the N. provinces. In Norway the maximum rainfall is at Flore, where it sometimes reaches 90-91 inches per annum; on the S. coast the average is about 40 inches, and on the W. coast, to the S. and N. of Flore, 70-75 inches. August and September are the rainiest months in the E. districts of Norway, but on the W. coast the rainy season is somewhat later. June and July are therefore the best months for travelling in Sweden and the E. districts of Norway, and July and August for the W. coast. In the neighbourhood of the Roms- dal the rainy season does not usually set in before December. Hail and thunderstorms are rare in Norway. The latter, however, are sometimes very violent on the W. OOaSt, where no fewer than forty churches have been destroyed by lightning within the last 150 years. The following table shows the mean temperature and average rainfall in different parts of Norway: —— 464-; '3 fig‘ H's-v '3 a) a) Q) ‘a "7"‘. m5 S as 83.23 mi .3 5s 33.5‘ Va'rdo . . . . 42 ,700 22533.45: _ Ona. . . . . 52 62° 5314.24 _, Nyborg. . . . ' —— 170° 2”34.70 — Dom'e . . . . 2095 62° 5'32.5414.39 Fruholmen. . 29 710 6' 35.42 — Ra'ros . . . . 207'~ 62° 35' 27. 5 —— Alien . . . . . — 69° 58' 33.62 — Flora . . . . 2961° 36'4385 75.27 Tromse . . . 39 69° 39' 35.96 - Bergen . . . 49 60° 24' 44.60 72.25 Andenocs . . . 26 69° 20' 38.48 -— Ullensvang . 33 60° 19' 44.78 —- Bode . . . . . 36 67° 1738.48 30.55 Skudesnws . 3659° 9' 44.78 42.83 Ranen . . . . 46 66° 12' 37.22 —- Lindesnws . 2957° 59' 44.24 —- Brena . . . . 38 65° 28' 40.28 34.34 Mandal. . . 5658° 2' 43.85 55.11 Ytteraen . . . 250 63° 49' 41.00 22.36 Sandesund . 42 59° 55' 43.85 23.14 Christiansund 66 63° '7' 43.16 37.48 Chm'sts'anz'a . 79 59° 55' 41.36 21.19 AIR PRESSURE. The pressure of the air in January is greatest in the interior of N. Norway and lowest in Finmarken. In July it is highest on the W. coast and lowest in the interior. The pre- vailing winds in winter are accordingly land-winds, which are fre- quently diverted towards the N. and follow the line of the coast. In summer, on the other hand, W. and SW. winds prevail, blow- ing towards the region where the air-pressure is lowest, also fre— quently following the line of the coast towards the N., and rarely impinging on the coast at a right angle. The most prevalent wind blows from the S.W., and on the coast is usually accompanied with dull weather, but this is less the case in the interior. The most violent storms, which prevail chiefly in winter, come from- the same quarter. The mountains form a boundary between two distinct climates, the W. wind being the dampest- on the W. coast and the driest inthe interior. . xl ' IX. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. The Vegetation, as might be expected from the climate and the geological features of the peninsula, is generally poor, but the flora is. unusually rich for so northern a region. About 25,758 Engl. sq. M. are covered with forest, chiefly pines , the wood of which is valuable owing to the closeness of the rings which mark its annual growth. Next in point of frequency are the oak ,. the birch, the elm, and the beech. Other trees occur frequently, but not in the forests. The beech, which sufi'ers more from cold than the oak, but does not require so high a mean temperature, rarely occurs in Sweden N. of Kalmar, while the oak is found as far N. as Gefle. In Norway, on the other hand, the beech extends to a point beyond Bergen, and the red beech even occurs at Thrond- hjem. Near Laurvig, in latitude 59-591/2° the beech is found in considerable plantations. '— The apple-tree (Pyrus malus) occurs as far as 65° 10 ' N. 1at., the plum (Prunus domestica) up to 64 °, and the cherry to 66°, while currants (Ribes nigrum and rubs-um), gooseberries (Ribes yrossularia), strawberries (Fraga'ria uesca), raspberries (Rubus idaeus), and the common bilberry ( Vaccinium myrtillus) occur as far north as the North Cape. Wheat is cultivated as far as 41/2°, and in the S. of the country to a height of 1000-1250 ft. above the sea; Rye grows as far N. as 69°, and in the S. up to a height of 1950 ft.; Barley and Oats occur up to 70°, and in the S. to a height of 2050 ft. above the sea. Botanists are referred to the instructive works of Schuebeler and Axel Blytt. —-— The cultivated land in Norway occupies the insignificant area of 1074 Engl. sq. M., but in Sweden 10,678 sq. M. In the northern regions the Oxyria remz'formis, a kind of sorrel, is largely cultivated as a substitute for corn. It is kept in a frozen condition in winter and boiled down to a pulp for use, being fre- quently mixed with flour and made into Fladbred. In the S. districts, however, the ‘flat bread’ is usually made of wheat or barley flour mixed with mashed potatoes, and sometimes with pease-meal. The Lapps mix their bread with reindeer-milk and sometimes with the bitter Mulgedium alpinum, which is believed to be a preventive of scurvy. It is a curious fact that barley takes exactly the same time (90 days) to ripen at Alten (70° N. lat.) as at Christiania and in the S. of France, but it is now generally believed that the great length of the Arctic days compensates for the lack of warmth. The seed, however, if brought, from a warmer climate, requires to be acclimatised, and does not yield a good crop until after two or three seasons, so that the effects of a bad harvest are felt for several succeeding years. The traveller will also observe that the leaves of most of the trees which occur in the northern districts of Norway are larger than those of trees of the same kind in the southern regions. Thus the leaves of maples and plane-trees (Acer platanoides and pseudo- IX . PHYSICAL- GEOGRAPHY. xli platanus) transplanted from Ohristiania to Tromso have been found to increase greatly in size, while the trees themselves become dwarfed in their growth. This leaf development is also attributed to the long continuance of the sunlight in summer. It would be interesting to know what effects the protracted light produces on the colours of flowers and the flavour of fruits, but these points have not yet been investigated. The Animal Kingdom comprises most of the domestic and other animals common in Great Britain , besides many which are now extinct there, and a number of others peculiar to the Arctic regions. Among the animals most characteristic of the country are the rein- deer (Cervus tarandus), an exceedingly useful mammal, and the sole support of the nomadic Lapps, and the lemming ( Georychus lemmas), a rodent, somewhat resembling a water-rat, which some- times aifords food to the reindeer (see p. 151). Among beasts of prey the bear and the wolf are still common in many parts of the country, and the lynx and glutton occasionally occur. For killing any one of these the government offers a reward of 25 crowns. Conspicuous among large game is the handsome elk (‘Elgsdyr’; Cervus alces), now becoming rare, next to which rank the reindeer and the red deer. The finest of the Wildfowl is the capercailzie (‘Tjur’; Tetrao urogal'lus), after which come the ptar- migan (‘Rype’; Lagopus mums) and hazel-grouse (‘Hjerpe’; Tetrao bonasia). Partridges rarely occur in Norway, but abound in the S. of Sweden, where they were introduced about the year 1500. The most valuable of the wildfowl, however, is the cider-duck (‘Edder’; Anas mollissima), which is most abundant within the Arctic Circle. The down of the female. which she uses in making her nest, is gathered in the Dun/var of Finrnarken, yielding a con- siderable revenue (see p. 260). The Population is now almost exclusively of Gothic origin,’ but the oldest element consists of the Lapps and-the Finns, who were pro— bably the aboriginal inhabitants of the country and who both belong to the Ugrian race. Their languages are both of the Turanian stock (akin to Hungarian), and are said by Castren, the philologist, to have been identical some 2000 years ago. The Lapps now number about 24,000 only in Norway and Sweden, and the Finns about 22,000 souls. They are both of the Mongolian type, with high cheek-bones, low foreheads, full lips, narrow eyes, ~blunt noses, and yellowish complexions, but the Finns are now by far the su- perior race, both physically and mentally. The names usually applied to them are not used by themselves. The Lapps (‘nomads’) call themselves Sami or Sahmelads, and the Finns (‘fen-dwellers’) Suomi. -- The dominant race, by which the Lapps have been well— Iligh extinguished, is of the Aryan or Indo-Germanic stock , and is believed to have begun to settle in the peninsula before the birth of Christ (see below). With regard to their language, see the xlii X.‘ HISTORY. grammars at the end of the volume. — The total population of Norway at the end of 1875 was 1,807,555; that of Sweden at the end of 1879 was 4,578,901. The annual increase, which is slow, owing to the frequency of emigration, now amounts in Norway to about 18,000, and in Sweden to 50,000 per annum. X. History of Sweden and Norway. Prehistoric Period. The earliest antiquities in Scandinavia belong to the FLINT PERIOD, during which the peninsula appears to have been inhabited by the same race as Denmark and N. Ger- many. Their rude implements indicate that they possessed fixed dwelling-places and cattle, and were acquainted with the art of fishing and probably of hunting also. They buried their dead in large stone tomb-chambers. This epoch was succeeded by the BRONZE P123101), when implements and ornaments in bronze and even in gold were first imported into the country and afterwards manufactured by the natives themselves. Agriculture was now regularly practised, and the same domestic animals were used as at the present day. The tombs of this period sometimes contain cinerary urns, and sometimes bones unconsumed. During this and the preceding period the population seems to have been confined to Skz‘ine and Vester-Gotland. Lastly, about the time of the birth of Christ, begins the IRON PERIOD, when the use of that metal was introduced from Central Europe. At the same time silver and glass make their appearance, and Roman coins and ‘bracteates’ (ornamental discs of metal) are occasionally found. During this period also the contents of tombs prove that the dead were sometimes burned and sometimes buried in coffins. The cinerary urns are usually of terracotta, rarely of bronze. Among other curiosities which have been found in the tombs are trinkets and weapons, some of which appear to have been purposely broken. To this period also belong the earlier Rum'c Inscriptions, in a large character differing from that afterwards used. Quite distinct from the earlier part of this era is the LATER IRON PERIOD, which be- gan in Sweden about the year 500 or 600 and in Norway about the year 700 A. D. The Runic inscriptions of this period are in the smaller character, and the language had by this time attained to nearly the same development as that used by the later MSS., while the native workmanship exhibits evidence of a new and in- dependent, though still barbarous stage of culture. To what race the inhabitants of Scandinavia during the first and second of these periods belonged is uncertain, but it is sup- posed that they were of the aboriginal Finnish stock. That the relics of the following periods were left by a different race is most probable, as no antiquities have been found which show a gradual transition from the bronze to the early iron period, and it is well X. HISTORY. xliii ascertained that the inhabitants of the S. parts of the peninsula were of Germanic origin, both during the earlier and later iron periods. It has also been ascertained that the older Runic alpha— bet of 24 letters, common to Scandinavian, Anglo—Saxon, Bur- gundian, and Gothic inscriptions, was afterwards modified by the Scandinavians, who substituted for it the smaller character, con- sisting of 16 letters only. It therefore seems to be a well estab- lished fact that during the later iron period, if not earlier, the Scandinavians had developed into a nationality distinct from the ancient Goths or the Anglo-Saxons. Transition to the Historical Period. The earliest historical writers agree that Scandinavia was at an early period inhabited partly by a Germanic race, and partly by Finns or Lapps. The Germanic inhabitants, before whom the weaker race seems gradually to have retreated , were first settled in Skane (Skaney) in the S. of Sweden , whence the country was named Scandia, and the people Scandinavians. The name of ‘Swedes’ is mentioned for the first time by Tacitus (Suiones), the ‘Goths’ are spoken of by Ptolemy, and the Suethans and Suethz'di (i. e. Soear and Svz'thjo'd) by Jordanis. Jordanis also mentions the Ostrogothae and Finnaithae, or the inhabitants of Oster-Gotland and Finnveden in Sweden, the Dani or Danes , the Raumariciaz and Ragnaricii, or natives of Romerike and Raurike in Norway, and lastly the Ethelrugi or Adalrygir, and the Ulmemgi or Holm- rygir. As far back, therefore, as the beginning of our era, the population in the S. of Sweden and Norway appears to have been of the Gothic stock. To this also points the fact that the names of Rugians, Burgundians, and Goths still occur frequently in Scandinavia; the Rygir were a Norwegian tribe, the name Bor- gund and Bornholm (Borgundarholm) recur more than once , and the district of Giitland and the island of Gotland or Gutland were doubtless so called by Goths or Jutes. It is therefore more than probable that the picturesque myth of the immigration of the Esir or ancient Scandinavians from Asia under the leadership of Odin entirely lacks foundation in fact. It is at least certain that the history of Scandinavia begins with the later iron period. At that time the southernmost part of Sweden seems to have belonged to the Danes. Farther N. was settled the tribe of the Giitar, to whom belonged the adjacent is— land of Oland, while Gotland appears to have been occupied by an independent tribe. Still farther N. were the Soear, who occupied Upland, Vestermanland, Sodermanland, and Nerike. The territories of the Giitar and the Svear were separated by dense forest, while the latter were also separated from the Norwegian tribes by forests and by Lake Venern and the Giitaelf. Beowulf, the famous Anglo— .Saxon epic 'poem, dating from about the year 700, mentions Den- xliv X . HISTORY. mark as an already existing kingdom, and also speaks of the differ- ent states of the Giitar and Svear, which, however, by the 9th cent. had become united , the Svear, or Swedes , being dominant. The same poem refers to ‘Norvegr’ and ‘Nordmenn’, i.e. Norway and the Northmen, but throwns no light on their history. It is, however, certain that the consolidation of Norway took‘ place much later than that of Denmark and Sweden, and doubtless after many severe struggles. To the mythical period must be relegated the picturesque stories of the early Ynglingar kings, beginning with Olaf T'rertelje, or the ‘tree-hewer’; but they are probably not without some foundation in fact, and it is at any rate certain that the migrations and piratical expeditions of the Northmen, which soon affected the whole of the north of Europe, began about this time (7th-8th cent. A. D.). The predatory campaigns of the Danish King Hugleikr, which are mentioned both in the Beowulf and by Frankish chroniclers, are doubtless a type of the enterprises of the vikings (from Vile, ‘creek), which continued down to the 11th century. The Swedes directed their attacks mainly against Finland, Kurland, Esthonia, and Russia, which last derived its name and its political organisation from Sweden ; the Danes undertook expeditions against France and England, and the Norwegians chiefly against the north of England, Scotland, the Orkney and Sketland Islands, and the Hebrides. Norway before the Union. From the semi-mythical Ynglingar and Olaf Traetelje, who is said to have flourished about the middle of the 7th cent., Halfdan Svarte, King of a part of Norway corresponding with the present Stift of Christiania, professed to trace his descent. His son Harald Haarfagre (‘fair-haired’), after several severe conflicts, succeeded in uniting the whole of Norway under his sceptre after the deci- sive battle of the Hafrsfjord near Stavanger in 872. The final consolidation of the kingdom, however, was not effected until a century later. The kingdom was repeatedly attacked by the petty kings who had been banished, while great numbers of the pea- santry, to escape the burdens of taxation, emigrated to the Orkney and Shetland Islands, to Iceland, and even to the Hebrides. In this weakened condition Harald transmitted the crown to his fa- vourite son Ei'rt'lcr Blo'diizr, whose exploits as a viking had gained for him the sobriquet of ‘bloody axe’. After having slain several of his brothers, Eric was expelled about the year 935 by Haakon the Good, who in his turn was defeated and slain by Eri-c’s sons at the battle of Fitjar in 961. Among‘ the sons of Eric, several of whom were put to death by their own subjects, the most disting- uished was Harald Graafeld, who was, however, at length defeated by the Jarl (earl) of Lade in the district of Throndhjem, with the aid of Harald Gormsson, king of Denmark (970). At this period a number of petty kingsstill maintained themselves on the fjords X. HISTORY. xlv and in the interior of the country, trusting for support from the kings of Sweden and Denmark. The Jarls of Lade, who ruled over Throndhjem, Helgeland, Namdalen, and Nordmere, acknow- ledged the supremacy of the kings of Norway, until Haakon J arl transferred his allegiance to the kings of Denmark. On the out- break of war between Denmark and Germany he succeeded in throwing off the Danish yoke, but did not assume the title of king. Haakon was at length slain by one of his own slaves during an insurrection of the peasantry (995), whereupon Olaf Trygg- vason, a descendant of Haarfagre, obtained possession of the kingdom, together with the fjords and inland territory which had belonged to Haakon. With the accession of Olaf begins a new era in the history of Norway. In the 10th century PAGANISM in the north was in'a moribund condition. Based on the dual system of a world of gods (Asgardr, Godheimr) and a realm of giants (Utgardr, Jiitunhcimr), it regarded mankind ( M idgardr, Mannheimr) as a kind of object of contention between the two. All alike partook equally of the joys and sorrows of life, of sin, and even of death. The period of the vikings, however, to the close of which we owe the Eddas, materially altered the tenets of the old religion. As victory was their great object, they elevated Odin,, the god of victory, to the highest rank in their pantheon, while Thor, the god of thunder, had hitherto reigned supreme. The bards depict in glowing colours the halls of Odin, which become the abode of heroes slain in war. But as the gods had been in many respects lowered to the rank of men, and were themselves believed to have their destinies swayed by fate, it necessarily followed that they were not themselves the Creators, but at most the intermediate artificers and administrators of earth. They therefore failed to satisfy the religious wants of men, who began to speculate as to the true and ultimate Creator of the universe, and it was about this period that Christianity began to dawn on the benighted north. The vikings came into frequent contact with Christian nations, and Christian slaves were frequently brought to Norway and Sweden. Many of the Northmen professed to be converted , but either retained many of their old superstitions or speedily relapsed into them. A few, however, embraced the new religion zealously, and it is to them that the final conversion of the peninsula was due. The first Christian monarch was Haakon the Good, who had been brought up by King Athelstane in England, and been baptised there; but his attempts to convert his people were violently opposed and met with no success. The sons of Eric, who had also been converted in England, showed little zeal for Christianity, and under Haakon Jarl heathenism was again in the ascendant. At length when Olaf Tryggvason, who had also become a Christian, ascended the throne, he brought missionaries‘ from England and Germany to Norway and succeed-1 xlvi X . HISTORY. ed in evangelising- Norway, Iceland, the Orkney and Shetland Islands and the Faroes, partly by persuasion, and partly by inti- midation or by bribery. Iceland, however, had already been partly converted by Thorvaldr Vidforli, a native missionary, aided by the German bishop Friedrich. King Svejn Tveskzrg (‘double beard’) of Denmark now attempt- ed to re-establish the Danish supremacy over Norway, and for this purpose allied himself with his stepson King Olaf, Skot- konung or tributary king of Sweden , and with Eric, the son of Haakon, by whose allied fleets Olaf Tryggvessen was defeated and slain in the great naval battle of Svold, on the coast of Pomerania, about the year 1000. Norway was now partitioned between the kings of Denmark and Sweden, who ceded most of their rights to the J arls Eric and Svejn, sons of Haakon Ladejarl. The kingdom, however, was soon permanently re-united by St. Olaf, son of Harald Grenski, and a descendant of Harald Haarfagre. After having been engaged in several warlike expeditions, and having been baptised either in England or in Normandy, he returned to Norway in 1014 to assert his claim to the crown. Aided by his stepfather Sigud Syr, king of Ringerike, and by others of the minor inland kings, he succeeded in establishing his authority throughout the whole country, and thereupon went to work energetically to consolidate and evangelise his kingdom. His severity, however, caused much discontent, and his adversaries were supported by C-anute, king of England and Denmark, who still asserted his claim to Norway. Canute at length invaded Nor- way and was proclaimed king, while Olaf was compelled to seek an asylum in Russia (1028). Having returned with a few followers to regain his crown, he was defeated and slain at Stiklestad near Levanger on ‘29th July, 1030. Ganute’s triumph, however, was of brief duration. He ceded the reins of government to Haakon Jarl Erikssen, and after the death of the jarl to his son Svejn and the English princess Aelgifu, the mother of the latter; but a reaction speedily set in, stimulated chiefly by the rumour of Olaf’s sanctity, which found ready credence and was formally declared by a national assembly. Olaf’s son Magnus, who had been left by his father in Russia, was now called to the throne, and Svejn was obliged to flee to Denmark (1035). The sway of Magnus was at first harsh, but he afterwards succeeded in earning for himself the title of ‘the good’. In accordance with a treaty with Hardicanute in 1038, he ascended the throne of Denmark after the Danish mon'arch’s death in 1042, but his right was disputed by Svend Estridssen. In 1046 he assumed as co—regent the turbulent Harald Sigurdswn, step-brother of St. Olaf, who succeeded him on his death in 1047. After a series of violent conflicts with Svend, Harald was obliged to renounce his pretensions to the crown of Denmark, but on Harald’s death at the Battle of Hastings (1066) X. HISTORY. xlvii the hostilities between Norway and Denmark broke out anew. Harald was succeeded by Olaf Haraldsson, who in 1068 entered into a new treaty with Svend of Denmark at Kongshelle, whereby the independence of Norway was finally established. Olaf, who was surnamed Hinn Kyrri, or ‘the peaceful’, now. devoted his attention to the internal organisation of his kingdom, and several of the Norwegian towns began to attain importance. Skiringssalr (near Laurvik) and the neighbouring Tensberg already existed; Nidaros (afterwards Throndhjem) is said to have been founded by Olaf Tryggvason, Sarpsborg by St. Olaf, and Oslo by Harald Hardraade; but the foundation of Bergen and several other towns, probably including Stavanger, is attributed to Olaf Kyrri. His court was famed for its magnificence and the number of its dignitaries, and at the same time he zealously promoted the in- terests of the church. While Olaf’s predecessors had employed missionaries, chiefly English, for the conversion of their subjects, he proceeded to establish three native bishoprics and to erect cathedrals at Nidaros, Bergen , and Oslo, making the dioceses as far as possible coextensive with the three provinces in which national diets (Thing) were held. His warlike son Magnus Barfod (1093-1103), so surnamed from the dress of the Scotch Highland- ers which he had adopted, did not reign long enough seriously to interrupt the peaceful progress of his country, and the three sons of Magnus, Qystein (d. 1122), Sigurd (d. 1130), and Olaf (d. 1115), thereafter proceeded to carry out the plans of their grandfather. Sigurd was surnamed Jorsalafarer (‘Jerusalem farer’) from his participation in one of the Crusades (1107-11). The same devotion to the church also led about this period to the foundation of the bishopric of Stavanger, and of several mon- asteries (those of Saele in the Nordfjord, Nidarholm near Thrond- hjem, Munkelif at Bergen, and Gimso near Skien), and to the in- troduction of the compulsory payment of tithes (Tiende, ‘tenths’, known in Scotlandas ‘teinds’), a measure which secured indepen- dence to the church. King Oystein is said to have been versed in law, and both he and several of his predecessors have been extolled as lawgivers, but no distinct trace of legislation in Nor- way of a period earlier than the beginning of the 12th cent. has been handed down to us. ' - After Sigurd’s death the succession to the throne was disputed by several ‘claimants, as, in accordance with the custom of the country, all relations in equal propinquity to the deceased, whether legitimate or not, enjoyed equal rights. The confusion was farther aggravated by the introduction (in 1129) of the custom of compelling ‘claimants whose legitimacy was challenged to un- dergo the ‘iron ordeal’, the practical result of which was to pave the way for the pretensions of adventurers of all kinds. Conflicts thus arose between Harald Gilli, a natural son of Magnus Barefoot, xlviii X . HISTORY. and Magnus Sigurdssen; between Sigurd Slembedegn, who claimed to be a brother of Harald, and Ingi and Sigurd Munn, sons of Harald; and afterwards between Ingi and Haakon Herdebred, a son of Sigurd Munn. All these pretenders to the throne perished in the course of this civil war. Ingi was defeated and slain by Haakon in 1161 , whereupon his partisans elected as their king Magnus Erlingssen,who was the son of adaughter of Sigurd J orsala- farer. Haakon in his turn having fallen in battle, his adherents endeavoured to find a successor, but Erling, the father of Magnus, whose title was defective, succeeded in obtaining the support of Denmark by the cession of Vigen, and also that of the church. Meanwhile the church had firmly established her power in the north. At first the sees of Sweden and Norway had been under the jurisdiction of the archbishops of Hamburg and Bremen , but in 1103 an archiepiscopal see was erected at Lund in Skiine. The Norwegians, however, desiring an archbishop of their own , Pope Eugene II. sent Cardinal Nicholas Breakespeare to Norway for the purpose of erecting a new archbishopric there, and at the same time a fifth bishopric was erected at Hamar. The new archbis- hop’s jurisdiction also extended over the sees of Iceland, Green- land, the Faroes, the Orkneys, the Hebrides, and the Isle of Man, and his headquarters were established at Throndhjem. In 1164 Erling J arl induced Archbishop Eystein to crown his son Magnus, a ceremony which had never yet taken place in Norway, and at the same time he engaged to make large concessions to the church, including a right to a voice in the election of future kings. Supported by the church, personally popular, and a meritorious administrator, Magnus had at first no difficulty in maintaining his position, but his title and the high privileges he had accorded to the church did not long remain unchallenged. After several insurrections against Magnus had been quelled, there arose the formidable party of the Birkebeiner (‘birch-legs’, so called from the bark of the birch which they used to protect their feet), who in 1177 chose as their chief Sverre, a natural son of Sigurd Munn, who had been brought up as a priest, and whoxsoon distinguished himself by his energy and prudence. In 1179 Erling was defeated and slain by Sverre at Nidaros, and in 1184 his son Magnus met the same fate in the naval battle of Fimreite inzthe Sogn district. Sverre's right to the crown , however, was immediately challenged by new pretenders, and he incurred the bitter hostility of the church by ignoring the concessions granted to it by Magnus. In 1190 Archbishop Eric, Eystein’s successor fled the country, and the king and his followers were excommunicated; but, though severely harassed by several hostile parties, particularly the Bagler (the episcopal party, from Bagall, ‘baculus’, a pastoral staff), Sverre died unconquered in 1202. He was succeeded by his son Haakon (d. 1204), by Guttorm Sigurdswn (d. 1204), and by Inge Baardssan x. HIs'roRY. x‘lix (d. 1217), under whom the hostilities with the church still con- tinued. For a time, however, peace was re-established by Haakon Haakonssen (1217-63), a grandson of Sverre, under whom Norway attained a high degree of prosperity. His fathersin-law Skule J arl, brother of King Inge, on whom he conferred the title of duke, proved his most serious opponent, but on the death of the duke in 1240 the civil wars at length terminated. New rights were soon afterwards conferred on the church, but of a less important character than those bestowed by Magnus Erlings-sen, the clergy being now excluded from a share in the election of kings. The king also amended the laws and sought to extend his territory. Since the ‘first colonisa- tion of Iceland (874-930) the island had been independent , but shortly before his death Haakon persuaded the natives to acknow- ledge his supremacy. In 1261 he also annexed Greenland, which had been colonised by Icelanders in the 10th cent. and previous— ly enjoyed independence, so that, nominally at least, his sway now extended over all the dioceses subject to the see of Thrond- hjem, including the Orkney and Shetland Islands, the Faroes, the Hebrides, and the Isle of Man. His claim to the Hebrides being disputed by-Alexander III. of Scotland, he assembled a fleet for the purpose of asserting it, and set sail for the Orkney Islands, where he died in 1263. He was succeeded by his‘ son Magnus Lagabater (‘betterer of laws’), who by thev treaty of Perth in 1268 renounced his claims to the Hebrides and Man in return for a small payment from Alexander. 1nv his reign, too, the Swedish frontier, long a subject of dispute, was clearly defined, and the relations between church and state were placed on a more satisfactory footing. Constitution. From an early period Norway was divided into four large districts, each presided over by a Thing or Lagthing (Lagthing), a diet with judicial and legislative functions. The eight Fylker or provinces of Throndhjem sent representatives to the Frostuthing, so named from Frosten, the meeting-place of the diet, and to these were afterwards added Helgeland, Namdalen, Nordmere, and Romsdalen. The Gulathing, in the Fylke of Gulen, embraced the Fylker of Fir-do, Sygna. and Harda, to which Roga- land, Agdcr, and Sondmere were afterwards added. The district of Vigen appears to have ‘had a Thing of its own, which after the time of St. Olaf met at Sarpsborg and was called ‘the Borgarthing; but from the 12th cent. onwards representatives were sent to‘ this diet by Ranrflcz', Vingulm-mk, Vestvold , and Grenafylke also. Lastly the mountain districts of Heina, Hada, and Raumd, held a diet called the Hcidsavisthing, afterwards named the Eidsifathing from» E'idsvold where it assembled. This diet, though separate from that of Vigen, was under the same law, which had been de— clared common to bothf'by St. Olaf. A committee of each diet, called the Lagretta, chosen by the king’s offlcers, performed the judicial duties of the diet, while the Legthing itself exercised Bannnxsn’s Norway and Sweden. 2nd Edit. (1 l X. HISTORY. jurisdiction over the diets held at irregular intervals in the difl’e- rent Fylker. Resolutions were passed by a majority of the peas- antry at the diet. The four cities of Throndhjem, Bergen, Tens- berg, and Oslo each possessed a distinct Legthing, the law ad- ministered by which was called ‘Bjarkeyjarrettr’. King Magnus proceeded to abolish these diets (in 1267 and 1268), but was prevented from finally accomplishing his object by the protest of Archbishop Jon Randi at the diet of Frosten (1269). He then directed his attention to the amendment of the laws. In 1271 a code called Jiirnsida (‘iron side’) was completed, and in 1272-4 a new code was promulgated at the Frostuthing, which seems to have been immediately adopted by the other districts. In 1276 a new municipal law was introduced at Bergen and soon afterwards into the other towns also; and lastly the Jdnsbo'lc, a collection of the laws of the mainland, was compiled in 1280 and promulgated in Iceland. From these codes ecclesias- tical law was excluded. Though each of them bears a distinctive name, such as ‘Law of the Frostuthing’, ‘Town Laws of Bergen’, etc., and is somewhat modified to suit the requirements of the district or town which adopted it, they substantially formed a single code for the whole kingdom. The whole country was now subject to the jurisdiction of the four diets, with the exception of Helgeland, Jemtland, and Herjedalen, which still formed inde- pendent districts. Meanwhile King Magnus concluded a Concordat with the church at Bergen in 1273 and another at Tensberg in 1277, and at the same time sanctioned an ecclesiastical code drawn up by Archbishop Jon, wherein he renounced all control over ecclesiastical causes and over the election of prelates. An- other interesting code of this period was the Hirdslcraa (‘law of servants’, probably 1274-77), which affords an insight into the early condition of Norway. , Magnus Lagabeter died in 1280 and was followed by his son Eric Magnussen (d. 1299), who was succeeded by his brother Haakon Magnussen (d. 1319). Under these monarchs the con- cessions of Magnus to the church formed the subject of constant dispute, and it was not till 1458 that they were finally secured to the hierarchy by Christian IV. In their secular administration, however, the sons of Magnus experienced less difficulty. At first the functions of the Logthing or diets had been deliberative, judi-_ cial and legislative, and those of the king executive only, but the constitution gradually assumed a more monarchical form. The first step was to transfer the judicial powers of the diets to offi- cials appointed by the king himself. The Legmenn (‘lawyers’) had originally been skilled assessors at the diets, elected and paid by the peasantry, but from the beginning of the 13th cent. onwards it was customary for the king to appoint them , and they became the sole judges of all suits in the first instance; In the X. HISTORY. li second or higher instance the diet was still nominally the judge, but it was presided over by the Logmann and attended by others of the king’s officials. The king himself also asserted a right to decide cases in the last instance , with the aid of a ‘council of the wisest men’. The four ancient diets were thus in the course of time transformed into ten or twelve minor diets, presided over by Legmenn. At the same time great changes inthe social and political system were effected. In accordance with the old feudal system, it had been customary for the kings to bestow temporary and re- vocable grants of land (‘Veitsla’, probably from oet'tta, ‘to bestow’) on their retainers and courtiers (‘Hird’), on the understanding that the tenants (‘Huskar1ar’) would administer justice, collect the taxes, and render military and other services. In some cases, too, a Jarl was appointed governor of a considerable district and invested with extensive powers and practical independence, and it was usual for the king to confirm the heirs of these officials and dignitaries in their respective lands and offices. All these minor jurisdictions , however, were abolished by Haakon Magnusson (1308), who directed that all his officials should in future be under his own immediate control. Thus, by the beginning of the 14th cent., the Norwegian monarchs had attained a position of great independence, and had emancipated themselves alike from democratic and from aristocratic interference. The peasantry, however, always enjoyed greater freedom than in most other Euro- pean countries, and possessed their lands in freehold, being them- selves lords of a great part of their native soil; but they never attained to much wealth or importance, as the trade of the country from a very early period was monopolised by Germans and other, foreigners. Of scarcely greater importance was the nobilityof the country, their lack of influence being due to want of organisation and political coherence. The Intellectual Culture of Norway during this period, as may be supposed, made no great progress. The Runic character had indeed been in use from the early Iron Period downwards, but it was merely employed for short inscriptions and rude registers of various kinds, and not for literary purposes. 0n the foundation of the archbishopric of Land, the Latin character was at length introduced, but before that period all traditions and‘ communica- tions were verbal, and it is mainly to the bards or minstrels (‘Skaldskapr’) that we owe the preservation of the ancient mythi- cal and historical sagas or ‘sayings’. About the year 1190 the Latin character began to be applied to the native tongue, both for secular and religious purposes. Of the exceedingly rich ‘Old Northern’ literature which now sprang up, it is a singular fact that by far the greater part was written by Icelanders. Among the most famous of these were Ari Fro'di (d. 1148), the father of a ‘*‘ Iii X. HISTORY. northern history; Oddr Snorras'on and Gunnlaugr Leifsso'n - (d. 1218), the biographers of King Olaf Tryggvessen; the prior Styrmir Karason (d. 1.245), the biographer of St. Olaf; the abbot Karl Jdnsson (d. 1212), the biographer of King Sverre; and lastly Eirz'lcr Oddsson, Snorri Sturluson(d. 1241), and Sturla Thordarson (d. 1284), who were both historians of the kings of Norway and zealous collectors of their own island lore. The bards attached to the Scandinavian courts were also generally Icelanders. To Nor- wegian authorship are traceable comparatively few literary works, the most important being juridical compilations, the ‘King’s Mirror’, which afl‘ords an insight into the court-life and commer- cial transactions of the 13th cent., the ‘Anekdoton Sverreri’, a polemic in favour of the crown against the church, several ballads of the earlier Edda, and a number of romances translated from English-and French. This poverty of the literature of the main- land is doubtless to be accounted for by the fact thatit was con- stantly harassed by wars and intestine troubles at this period, while Iceland was in the enjoyment of peace. While, moreover, in Norway the clergy held themselves aloof from the people and from secular pursuits, and-the nobles were busily engaged in fashioning their titles, their manners, and their costumes on the model of those of their more civilised neighbours, the Icelanders of all classes retained their national coherence in: a far higher degree, all contributing with equal zeal to the patriotic task of extolling their island and preserving- its ancient traditions. Sweden before the Union. With regard to the early history of Sweden there exist no chronicles similar to those of the Icelanders and Norwegians. It is ascertained, however, that the country was partly evangelised in the 9th cent. by Anskar (d. 865) and other German missionaries, and by his successor Rimbert (d. 888). Archbishop Unni after- wards preached the Gospel in Sweden, where he died in 936, and after the foundation of several bishoprics in Denmark about the middle of the 10th cent., Sweden was visited by several other German and Danish missionaries. The secular history of the country is involved in much obscurity, from which, however, it to some extent emerges when it comes into contact with that of Norway. About the end of the 10th century Olaf Skiitkonung (‘tributary king’) took part in the battle of Svold against Olaf of Norway and in the subsequent dismemberment of that country. He was afterwards compelled by his own peasantry to promise to come to terms with St. Olaf, and on his failure was threatened with deposition. He was then obliged to assume his son Onund as co-regent. andv had to make peace with Norway about the year 1019. Olafand Onund are said to have been the first Chris- tian kings of Sweden. Onund was succeeded by his brother X. HISTORY. liii Emund (d. 1056), the last of his royal house, on whose death hostilities broke out between ‘the Giitar, who were now inclined ‘ in favour of Christianity and the more northern and less civilised Svear, who were still sunk in paganism. Emund had been in- different about religion, but his successor Stenkil Ragnvaldsson was a zealous Christian and was keenly opposed vby theSvear. On the death of Stenkil about 1066 open war broke out between the Christian and the pagan parties. When his successor Inge Sten- kilsson (d. 1112), in whose reign the archbishopric of Lund was erected (1103), forbade heathen sacrifices, the Svear set up his brother—in-law Blot-Sven as a rival king, but Inge and his nephews and successors, Inge II. (d. about 1120) and Philip (d. about 1130), succeeded in maintaining their independence. These dissensions greatly weakened the resources of the kingdom. Stenkilsson fought successfully against Magnus Barfod of Norway and acquitted himself honourably at Kongshelle (1101), but his successors often allowed the Norwegians to invade their territory with impunity. On the death of Philip, Magnus, a Danish ‘prince, and grand- son of Stenkilsson, assumed the title of king in Gotaland, but was defeated and slain in 1134 by Sverker 1., who had been elected ~king two years previously. Sverker was next opposed by ‘Erik Jedvardsson, who was proclaimed king by the Svear, and on Sver- ker’s death in 1156 this Erik, commonly called the ‘Ninth’ and surnamed the ‘Saint’, obtained undivided possession of the throne. Eric, a zealous churchman, converted the temple of Upsala into a Christian place of worship, and conquered and Christianised the S.W. part of Finland. In 1160 he was ‘attacked and slain by M agnus Hcnr'iksson, a Danish prince, who laid claim to the throne, and who in the following year was defeated and slain by Karl Sverkersson. The latter in his turn was slain by Erik Knutsson in 1167, and the contest between the rival houses of Sverker and Eric lasted down to 1222. Eric died in 1195, his successor Sverker Karlsson in 1210, and Jon 80871687880”, the son of the latter and the last of his family, in 1222, whereupon Erik Lmspe (‘the lis- ping’), a son of Eric Knutsson, ascended the throne unopposed. Meanwhile the Svear, or Swedes in the narrower sense , had been converted to Christianity. The church was at first presided over by missionary bishops only, but in the reign of Olaf Eriksson a bishopric was erected at Skara, and under Stenkil another at Sigtuna. Under King Sverker a bishop of Oster-Giitland was ap- pointed, with his residence at Linkiiping , one for the diocese of Upper Sweden at Upsala, and others for Sddermanland and Vester- manland at Strongn'eis and Vesteras, while several monasteries were also founded. The primacy of Sweden was vgranted to Arch- bishop Eskil of Lund’ by Hadrian IV. (Nicholas Breakespeare) about the year 1154, but in 1163 was transferred to Stephamrs. the newly created Archbishop of Upsala. . ‘liv X. HISTORY. Eric Lsespe, though respected by his subjects, was a weak prince. Long before his time the Folkungar, a wealthy family of Ostef-Giitland, had gradually attained to great power, and Birger Brosa (d. 1202), a member of the family , had obtained the title of Jarl or Duke of the Swedes and Giitlanders. From an early period, moreover, intermarriages had taken. place between. the Folkungar and the royal families of Sweden , Norway, and Den- mark. In 1230 an attempt to dethrone Eric was made by Knut Jonsson, a distant cousin. of Birger, but Knut was defeated and slain. in 1234, and his son was executed as a rebel in 1248. The position of the family, however, remained unaffected. Birger J arl, .a nephew of Birger Brosa, married Ingeborg, the king’s sister, while Eric himself married a member of the Folkungar family (1243). Birger now became the real ruler of Sweden, the terri- tory of which he extended by new conquests in Finland. On the death of Eric, the last scion of the house of St. Eric, without issue in 1250, Valdemar, Birger’s son, was proclaimed the succes- sor of his uncle. During Birger’s regency the country prospered, but on his death in 1266 hostilities broke out between his sons. The weak and incapable Valdemar was dethroned by his brother Magnus (1275), whose vigorous administration resembled that of his father, and who maintained friendly relations with the Hanse- atic League. He also distinguished himself as a lawgiver and an upholder of order and justice, and earned for himself the surname of Ladulds (‘barn—lock’, i. e. Vindicator of the rights of the peasantry). In 1290 Magnus was succeeded by his son Birger Magnusson, during whose minority the government was ably conducted by Marshal Thorgils 'nutsson, but serious quarrels afterwards broke out between Magnus and his brothers, the dukes Eric and Valde- mar. In .1304 the dukes were banished, and in 1306 the faithful 'marshal was executed by the king’s order. Soon afterwards, however, the dukes returned and obtained possession of the king’s person. After several vicissitudes, peace was declared and the kingdom divided among the brothers in 1310 and again in 1313. In 1318, however, the dukes were arrested,‘imprisoned, and cruelly put to death by their brother’s order, whereupon Birger himself was dethroned and banished to Denmark (d. 1321). The following year Magnus, the infant son of Duke Eric, was elected king at the Mora Stones of Upsala (p. 350), while Magnus, Birger’s son, was taken prisoner and executed. The first attempts to unite the Scandinavian kingdoms were made in the reign of Magnus Eriksson. ~ ‘ The Constitution of Sweden at first resembled that of Norway. The country was divided into districts, calle Land, Folkland', or Landskap, 'each of which was subdivided into Hundari (‘hun- dreds’), called in Giitland Hc'irath. Each ‘Land’ had its diet or x. HISTORY. ' lv Thing, presided over by a Layman, and each hundred had its Hc'irathsthing, whose president was called a Domar (‘pronouncer of dooms’) or Hc'irathshdfthing. The Landsthing exercised delib- erative and judicial functions, and each had its own code of laws. Precedence among these diets was enjoyed by the Svea Thing or that of Upper Sweden, at which, although the monarchy was nominally hereditary, kings were first‘ elected. After his election each new king had to swear to observe the laws, and to proceed on the ‘Eriksgata’, or a journey to the other diets, in order to procure confirmation of his title. Resolutions of the Svea Thing were even binding on the king himself. As the provincial laws differed , attempts to codify them were made in the 13th and at the beginning of the 14th cent., but with the consolidation of the kingdom these differences were gradually obliterated. The chief difference between Sweden and Norway was the prepon- derance of the aristocratic element in the former. From an early period, moreover, it had been usual to hold diets composed of the higher officials, the barons, prelates, and large landed proprietors, and to these after the close of the 13th cent. were added the Lag- menn. This aristocratic diet was farther enlarged by Magnus Ladulas (1280), who admitted to it all knights willing to serve him in the field, according to them the same exemption from taxation as that enjoyed by his courtiers and by the clergy. As no one, however, in accordance with a law of 1285, could attend these diets without a summons from the king himself, he retained the real power in his own hands and reserved a right to alter the laws with the advice of the diet. From an early period the Lag- man and the Harathshiifthing had been the sole judges in lawsuits, and from the first half of the 14th cent. downwards they were proposed by the people, but appointed by the king. At the same time the king possessed a right of reviewing all judgments in the last instance. No taxes could be exacted or troops levied without the consent of the popular diets, and it therefore became custom- ary as early as the 13th cent. for the kings to employ mercenary troops. —— The privileges of the church were well defined, but less extensive than in Norway. The payment of tithes was com- pulsory, and in 1248 and 1250 the right to elect bishops was vested in the chapters, while all the clergy were prohibited from taking oaths of secular allegiance. At the same period the celibacy of the clergy was declared compulsory. As early as 1200 the clergy was declared amenable to the ecclesiastical jurisdiction only, and in some cases the church—courts could even summon laymen before them. On the other hand the supreme legislative power in church matters still belonged to the state, and parishes enjoyed the right of electing their pastor when no express right of patronage existed. —- In the‘ latter half of the 13th cent. the dig- nity of J arl or earl was abolished, and the Drotswtc (‘high steward’), 171 X. HISTORY. Marsker (‘marshal’), and Kanceler (‘chancellor’) now became the chief officials of the crown. The rest of the aristocracy consisted of the courtiers and royal vassals, the herons and knights (Riddare), the esquires (Sven af vdpen, Vcepnare), and even simple freemen who were willing to render military service whenever required. Between all these and the peasantry there was a wide social gap. The history of early Swedish Literature is well-nigh an ab- solute blank. The oldest work handed down to us is a com- pilation of the laws of West Gotland, dating from the'beginning -of the 12th century. A few meagre historical writings in Latin, a work concerning the ‘Styrilse kununga 0k hofdinga’ (the rule of kings and governors), and several translations of foreign romances also belong to this period. Transition to the Union. On the death of Haakon Magnussen of Norway in 1319 without male issue, he was succeeded by Magnus Eriksson, afterwards called Magnus Smek (‘the luxurious’), the son of his daughter Ingeborg and the Swedish Duke Erik, and at that time a child of three years. On the banishment of King Birger in 1319 Magnus was also elected King of Sweden, so that the two crowns were now united, but it was arranged that each country should retain its own administration. The union, however, was not attended with happy results. At first Sweden was prudently governed by the regent Mats Ketilmundsson, and in 1332 the province of Skz'ine, which had been pledged to the Swedish Marshal von Eber- stein by Erik Menved and Christopher II. of Denmark (1318), declared itself in favour of Magnus. The king, however, who soon afterwards assumed the reins of government, and his queen Blanche of Namur , were ruled by unworthy favourites and soon forfeited the respect of their people. A disastrous fire at Thrond- hjem (1343), great inundations in the Guldal and Orkedal (1345), and above all the plague which swept away about two-thirds of the population (1349-50) aggravated the discontent of the Nor- wegians, who in 1350 elected Haakon Magnusson, the minor son of Magnus , regent of Norway, and in 1355 Haakon entered upon his functions, the province of Vigen and Iceland alone being reserved to his father. In Sweden Magnus consolidated the pro- vincial laws and drew up a new municipal code in 1347, but‘here too he was overtaken by many troubles. The aristocracy resented his endeavours to restrain their excesses, the people were exas- perated by the unsuccessful issue of his Russian campaigns (1348- 49, 1350-51), the plague intensified their dissatisfaction in 1350, and lastly the king was excommunicated in 1358 on account of his failure to pay‘debts due to the pope. Eric, the king’s son, took advantage of these troubles and assumed the title of king in 1356, but died in 1359. New disasters, however, soon followed. X. HISTORY. lvii In 1360 the Danes regained Skiine and in 1361 they took posses- sion of the islands of Oland and Gotland. In 1363 Haakon married the princess Margaret, daughter of King Valdemar of Denmark, then- eleven years old, a union which gave great ofience to the Swedish nobles , who were farther exasperated by the reconcilia- tion of Haakon with his father. Magnus now banished twenty- four of his mot obnoxious opponents, who proceeded to Mecklen- burg and‘oflered the crown to Albert, second son of the duke and of Euphemia, a daughter of Duke Eric of Sweden. Albert accordingly came to Sweden in 1363, and in 1365 Mag- nus and Haakon were defeated at Gata, near Enkoping, where the former was taken prisoner. In 1370-71 a rebellion in favour of Magnus took place in Upper Sweden, and in 1471 Haakon invaded the country with a Norwegian army, but peace was shortly after- wards concluded, and Magnus set at liberty on payment of a heavy ransom and on condition that he would not again lay claim to the Swedish crown. The death of Magnus in 1374 finally extinguished the hopes of those in favour of union. Albert was now compelled to place himself under the guidance of the powerful aristocratic party. In 1375 B0 Jonsson, the most powerful noble in Sweden, was appointed Drost or regent. Meanwhile the Norwegian nobil- ity under King Haakon had attained to considerable indepen- dence, while in the towns the dominant party consisted entirely of Germans, whose proceedings were often most oppressive and tyrannical. Even in Sweden, in accordance with the municipal code of Magnus Smek, one-half of the burgomasters and civic authorities in every town was required to consist of Germans; and it may be here added that Albert chiefly owed his unpopularity to his partiality for German favourites. In 1375 Valdemar IV. of Denmark died without male issue, and in the following year he was succeeded by Olaf, son of his daughter Margaret and Haakon, king of Norway. On the death of Haakon in 1380, Olaf Haakonssen, his only son, acceded to the throne of Norway also, thus uniting the crowns of Denmark and Norway. Olaf’s early death in 1387 dissolved this brief union, but within a few weeks his mother Margaret was proclaimed regent of Denmark, pending the election of a new king, while in Norway she was nominated regent in 1388 without any such limitation. At the same time, as it was deemed necessary to elect a successor to the throne from among the different competitors, the Norwegians appointed Erik of Pomerania, Margaret’s nephew, heir to the crown, but under the condition that he should not ascend the throne during Margaret’s lifetime. On the death of B0 Jonsson (1386), who had held two-thirds of Sweden in flef or in pledge, Albert’s quarrels with his magnates broke out afresh, whereupon the mal- contents proclaimed Margaret regent of Sweden also (1388), agreeing to accept the king whom she-should nominate. Margaret lviii X. HISTORY. thereupon invaded Sweden and defeated Albert at Falkiiping (1389), taking him and his son prisoners. The war, however, still continued, and it was at this period that the Vitalien Brotherhood (1392) came into existence, originally deriving their name (‘victuallers’) from their duty of supplying Stockholm with provisions during the war. The city was at that time occupied by the German adherents of Albert, and these German ‘victuallers’ were in truth a band of lawless marauders and pirates. Peace was at length declared in 1395, and King Albert set at liberty on condition of his leaving the country. During the same year Erik was elected king of Denmark, and in 1396 of Sweden also, so that the three crowns were now united, and the three kingdoms ruled by the same regent. The following year Erik was solemnly crowned at Kalmar by a diet of the three nations. Lastly, in 1398, Mar- garet gained possession of Stockholm , the last stronghold of the German partisans of Albert. The union of the three kingdoms thus effected by Margaret, who is sometimes called the ‘Northern Semiramis’, lasted till the beginning of the 16th cent., when it was dissolved by the secession of Sweden, but Norway and Den- mark remained united down to the year 1814. The Union. Though nominally united and bound to make common cause against all enemies, the three kingdomsjealously maintained their respective forms of government. Margaret ruled over the three countries with wisdom and moderation, though harassed by many difficulties, and on her death in 1412 King Erik assumed the reins of government. Erik, whose queen was Philippa, daughter of Henry IV. of England, was a weak, incompetent, and at the same time a cruel prince. He wasted large sums of money in an at— tempt to recover Slesvig from the Counts of Holstein, who held it as a Danish fief, and who were supported by the Hanseatic League. Meanwhile Bergen was twice plundered by the Germans (1428 and 1429), who now became masters of that city, and in Sweden the people were most oppressively treated by Erik’s German and Danish officials. In 1435, after a disastrous quarrel of twenty- three years, Eric was at length compelled to confirm the privileges ,of the Hanseatic League and to leave the Counts of Holstein in undisturbed possession of Slesvig. Exasperated by Erik’s malad- ministration, by the debasement of the coinage, and other griev- ances, the Swedish peasantry, headed by Engelbrekt Engel- brektsson, a wealthy proprietor of mines, rebelled in 1433 and compelled Erik and his council to appoint Karl Knutsson regent of the kingdom (1436), shortly after which Engelbrekt was assas- sinated. In Norway also the oppressive sway of foreign offlcials caused great discontent and gave rise to a rebellion in 1436. Erik in despair. retired to the island of Gotland, and in 1438 a number X. HISTORY. lix of Danish and Swedish magnates assembled at Kalmar, where they drew up a new treaty of union, but without affirming that the three kingdoms were thenceforward to be ruled by one monarch. Lastly, in Denmark also a rebellion broke out, chiefly, however, against the nobility and the clergy, and the Danes were therefore compelled to seek for a new king. In 1439 Denmark and Sweden formally withdrew their alle- giance from Erik, and Christopher of Bavaria was elected in his stead, being afterwards proclaimed king of Norway also (1442). Erik spent ten years in Gotland where he ‘supported himself by piracy, and ten years more in Pomerania, where he died in 1459. The separate election and coronation of Christopher in the three countries shows that their union had ceased to exist in more than the name. The new'king succeeded, however, in asserting his authority in every part of his dominions, although not without many sacrifices. In his reign Copenhagen was raised to the rank of the capital of_Denmark. His plans for the consolidation. of his power were cut short by his death in 1448, and the union was again practically dissolved. The Swedes now proclaimed Karl Knutsson king, while the Danes elected Christian of Oldenburg, a nephew of the Duke of Holstein and Slesvig. In 1449 Christian also succeeded by strata-gem in procuring his election in Norway, but Karl Knutsson was proclaimed king and crowned by the pea— santry. The following year, however, Karl renounced his second crown, and Christian was thereupon crowned at Throndhjem. Karl having rendered himself obnoxious to the clergy and others of his subjects in Sweden, Christian succeeded in supplanting him here also, and he was crowned king of Sweden in 1457. In 1460 Christian next inherited the duchies of Holstein and Slesvig from his uncle, but he was compelled to sign a charter declaring that he would govern them by their own laws and not as part of Den- mark. The government of this vast empire was a task to which Christian proved unequal. Norway was plundered by Russians and Karelians and grievously oppressed by the Hanseatic mer— chants, who in 1455 slew Olaf Nilsson, governor of Bergen , and the bishop of the town, and burned the monastery of Munkeliv with impunity. In 1468 and 1469 he pledged the Orkney and Shetland Islands to Scotland, and caused great discontent by the introduction into Norway of Danish and German nobles, to whom he granted extensive privileges. Sweden, too, groaned under heavy taxation, and in 1464 recalled Karl Knutsson to the throne. He was soon banished, but in 1467 recalled a third time, and in 1470 he died as king of Sweden. In 1471 Sten'Sture, the‘ Elder, a nephew of Knutsson, and the guardian of his son, was appointed administrator, and the same year Christian was defeated at Stock- holm, after which he made no farther attempt to regain his autho- rity in Sweden. He died in 1481 and was succeeded in Denmark lx X. HISTORY. by his son Hans, who was not recognised in Norway till 1483. Sten Sture sought to delay his election in Sweden, but as he had rendered himself unpopular by an unsuccessful campaign against the Russians in Finland, Hans took the opportunity of invading Sweden with a large army and succeeded in establishing his au- thority (1497). The king having been signally defeated at Hem- mingstadt in 1500 in the course of his attempt to subdue the Ditmarschers, Sture was recalled, but Hans still retained Norway. Sture died in 1503 and was succeeded by Svante Nielsson Sture (d. 1512), whose successor was his son Sten Sture the Younger (d. 1520). King Hans died in 1513, and was succeeded in Denmark and Norway by his son Christian 11., whom the Swedes declined to recognise. He was a man of considerable ability and learning, but self-willed, passionate, and cruel. In Norway and Denmark he eflected several social reforms, protected the commercial, min- ing, and fishing interests, and sought to restrict the privileges of the Hanseatic merchants. Notwithstanding his strength of will, Christian was ruled by Sigb'ri'tt, a 'Dutchwoman, the mother of his mistress Dilweke (d. 1517), even after the death of the latter, and the hatred of the aristocracy for this woman, who treated them with studied contempt, proved disastrous to Christian. In Swe— den the family of Trolle had long been hostile to the Sture family, and when Gustaf Trolle was created archbishop of Upsala in 1515 he invited the Danes to aid him in deposing the administrator. Christian sent troops to the aid of the prelate, who was besieged in his castle of Staket (p. 351), but the castle was taken and Trolle deprived of his dignities and confined in a monastery. In 1518 Crhistian himself undertook a campaign against Sweden without success, and perfidiously imprisoned Gustaf Eriksson Vasa and other Swedish hostages ‘who had been sent to him. A third cam- paign in 1519 was more successful, and Sten Sture was defeatedv and mortally wounded at Bogesund in West Giitland. The same year Christian gained possession of Stockholm , but his atrocious cruelty and injustice proved his ruin. After his coronation by Trolle he permitted that prelate and two others to prosecute their enemies before an arbitrarily formed ecclesiastical tribunal. They were found guilty of heresy, and on 8th Nov., 1520, executed along with several other persons. The 82 victims included two bishops, 13 royal counsellors and knights, and Erik Johansson, the father of Vasa. On the following day many similar-executions of so-called rebels and heretics took place in other parts of Sweden, though on a smaller scale than the ‘Blood-bath of Stockholm’. The exasperation of the Swedes was aggravated by the impo- sition of a new tax and an attempt to disarm the peasantry, and the discontented populace soon found an able leader. This was the famous Gustaf Vii-“(probably so surnamed from case, ‘a beam’, X. HISTORY. lxd which the fascine in his armorial bearings resembled), who had been unjustly imprisoned by Christian, but escaped to Liibeck in 1519. In May, 1520, he returned to Sweden, and on hearing of the death of his father at the Stockholm Blood-bath he betook himself to Dalecarlia, where on former occasions Engelbrekt and the Stures had been supported by the peasantry. The rising began in 1521 and soon extended over the whole of Sweden. InAugust of that year Gustavus was appointed administrator at' Vadstena, and in June 1523 he was proclaimed king at Strengnas. Sweden thus finally withdrew from the union, and Christian soon afterwards lost his two other kingdoms. His favour to the Reformation aroused the enmity of the church, and at the same time he attacked the privileges of the nobility. From the tenor of several provincial and municipal laws framed by the king in 1521—22 it is obvious that he proposed to counteract the influence of the clergy and aristocracy by improving the condition of the lower classes. Among several excellent provisions were the abol- ition of compulsory celibacy in the. church and a prohibition against the sale of serfs. A war with the Liibeckers, who even threatened Copenhagen (1522), next added. to Christian’s difficul- ties, soon after which the Danes elected his uncle Frederick, Duke of Slesvig-Holstein, as his successor and renounced their allegiance to Christian. At length, after fruitless negociations, Christian quittedCopenhagen in 1523 and sought an». asylum in Holland. Nineyears later, after an unsuccessful attempt to regain his throne, he was thrown into prison, where he languished for 27 years. The condition of the Constitution during the union was far from satisfactory. The union existed in little more than the name. Each nation continued to be governed by its own laws, neither the troops nor the-revenue of one could be employed for the- pur- poses of either of the others, and no one could be summoned be— fore any tribunal out of his own country. The supreme authority, next to that of the king, was vested in his council, which. con- sisted of the prelates, a number of. the. superior clergy, and a fluctuating‘ number of nobles nominated by the king, but not removable at his pleasure. In matters of importance the king could only act with. the consent of his counsellors, and they were even entitled to use violence in opposingunauthorised. measures. Nominally the church continued to enjoy all its early privileges, and the concessions made at Tensberg in 1277 were expressly confirmed by Christian I. in 1458, .but invasions of its rights were not unfrequent, and with its increasing solicitude for temporal p.)wer its hold over the people decreased. The church was most powerful in Norway and least so in Sweden, while with the in- fluence of the. nobility the reverse was the case. In Sweden .the estates of the nobility enjoyed immunity from taxation, but Chris- tian I. and his successors were obliged to relax this privilege. lxii X. HISTORY. The nobles also enjoyed jurisdiction over their peasantry, levying fines and imposing punishments at discretion (1483). The Nor- wegian nobles were less favoured; they had no power of levying fines from their tenantry, and their manor houses (Sazdegaarde) alone were exempt from taxation. The position of the townspeople and the peasantry in Sweden gradually improved, and in 1471 Sten Sture ordained that the municipal authorities should then ce- forward consist of natives of the country instead of Germans. 111 Norway, notwithstanding the opposition of several of the kings, the Hanse merchants still held oppressive sway in the chief towns ; but the peasantry were never, as in Denmark, subjected to serf- dom and compulsory services. They were generally owners of the soil they cultivated, while those who were merely tenants enjoyed entire liberty and were not ascripti glebae as in many other coun- tries. In Sweden the compulsory services exigible from the pea- santry by the lord of the soil were limited in the 15th cent. to 8-12 days, and those exigible by the king to 8 days. While this class enjoyed less independence than in Norway, it attained polit- ical importance and even admission to the supreme council at an earlier period, owing to the influence of Engelbrekt, the Stures, and other popular chiefs. During the union Literature made considerable progress in Sweden, while in Norway it languished and became well-nigh ex- tinct. In both countries the education of the clergy continued to be carried on in the monasteries and cathedral schools, but towards the close of this period universities were founded at Upsala (1477) and Copenhagen (1479), and gave rise to the publication of various learned treatises in Latin. Among the religious works of this per- iod may be mentioned the revelations of St. Birgitta (d. 1373) and the ‘Cronica Regni Gothorum’ of Ericus Otai (d. 1486), both showing a tendency towards the principles of the Reformation. Whilst about the beginning of the 14th cent. the native literature of, Norway became extinct, that of Sweden began to increase, consisting chiefly of religious writings, rhyming chronicles, ballads and compilations of laws. In Sweden, moreover, the national lan- guage, though not without difficulty, held its own against the Danish, while in Norway the ‘Old Norsk’ was gradually displaced by the tongue of the dominant race, and continued to be spoken in several impure and uncultured dialects by the peasantry alone. Sweden after the Dissolution of the Kalmar Union. The necessity of making common cause against Christian 11., the deposed monarch of the three kingdoms, led to an alliance be- tween Gustavus Vasa and Frederick I. of Denmark. Christian at- tempted an invasion of Norway in 1531-32, but was taken pri- soner, and after Frederick’s death (1533) the Liibeckers made an ineffectual attempt to restore the deposed king (1534-36). At X. HISTORY . lxiii home Gustavus also succeeded in consolidating his power. The nobility had been much weakened by the cruel proceedings of Christian, while the Reformation deprived the church both of its power and its temporal possessions, most of which fell to the crown. By the diet of Vesteras (1527) and the synod of Orebro (1529) great changes in the tenure of church property and in eccle- siastical dogmas and ritual were introduced, and in 1531 Lau- rentius Petri became the first Protestant archbishop of _Upsala. Lastly, at another diet held at Vesteras (1544), the Roman Catho— lic Church was declared abolished. At the same diet the succes- sion to the throne was declared hereditary. Gustavus efl‘ected many other wise reforms, but had to contend against several in- surrections of the peasantry, caused partly by his ecclesiastical innovations, and partly by the heaviness of the taxation imposed for the support of his army and fleet. Shortly before his death (in 1560), he unwisely bestowed dukedoms on his younger sons, a step which laid the foundation for future troubles. His eldest son Erik XIV. (the number being in accordance with the computation of Johannes Magnus, but without the slight- est historical foundation) soon quarrelled with his younger brother John, Duke of Finland, whom he kept imprisoned for four years. He was ruled by an unworthy favourite, named Goran Persson, and committed many acts of violence and cruelty. He persuaded his brother Duke Magnus to sign J ohn’s death-warrant, whereupon Magnus became insane. After the failure of several matrimonial schemes, of one of which Queen Elizabeth of England was the object, and after several outbursts of insanity, Eric married his mistress Katharine Mansdatter (1567). The following year he was deposed by his brother, who ascended the throne as John 111., and after a cruel captivity of nine years was poisoned by his order in 1577 (see p. 358). John ingratiated himself with the nobility by rich grants of hereditary fiefs, and he concluded the peace at Stettin which terminated a seven years’ war in the north (1563-70) and definitively severed Sweden from Denmark and Norway. Less successful was his war against Russia for the purpose of securing to Sweden the province of Esthland, but the province was after— wards secured to his successor by the Peace of Tensina (1595). John was married to a Polish princess and betrayed a leaning to— wards the Romish church which much displeased his subjects. After his death (1592) the religious difficulty became more serious, as his son and successor Sigismund had been brought up as a B0- man Catholic in Poland, where he had been proclaimed king in 1587. Duke Charles of Sodermanland, the youngest son of Gus- tavus Vasa, thereupon assumed the regency on behalf of the ab- sent Sigismund, caused the Augsburg Confession to be pro- claimed anew by a synod at Upsala (1593), and abolished Romish practices introduced by John. After confirming these proceedings, lxiv X. HISTORY. Sigismund was crowned in 1594; but on his failure to keep his promises, his uncle was recalled to the regency (1595), and when Sigismund invaded Sweden in 1598 he was defeated by Charles and compelled to enter into a compromise at‘ Linkoping. Again breaking faith, he was formally deposed (1599), while Charles was appointed regent for life. After having prosecuted Sigis- mund’s adherents with great harshness, and succeeded in prevent- ing the recognition of Ladislaus, Sigismund’s son, Charles IX., assumed'the title of king in 1604. His administration was bene- ficial to the country, and he was a zealous promoter of commerce, mining, and agriculture, but his wars with Russia and Denmark, which were unfinished at his death (1611), caused much misery. His son and successor was Gustavus II. , better known as Gustavus Adolphus, the most able and famous of the Swedish kings. Though seventeen years of age only, he was at once de— clared major by the Estates. In 1613 he terminated the ‘Kalmar War’ with Denmark by the Peace of Kn'zirod, and in 1617 that with Russia by the Peace of Stolbova, which secured Kexholm, Karelen, and Ingermanland to Sweden. By the Treaty of Altmark in 1629 he obtained from Poland the cession of Livonia and four Prussian seaports for six years. At the same time he bestowed much attention on his home affairs. With the aid of his chancellor and friend Axel Oxenstjema he passed codes of judicial procedure and founded a supreme coprt at Stockholm(1614-15), and afterwards erected appeal courts at Abo, Dorpat, and Jonkoping. In 1617 he reorgan-ised the national assembly, dividing it into the four estates of Nobles, Clergy, Burghers, and Peasants, and giving it the sole power of passing laws and levying taxes. He founded several new towns, favoured the mining and commercial industries, extended the university of Upsala, and established another at Dorpat. At the same time he strengthened his army and navy, which he soon had occasion to use. In 1630 he went to Germany to- support the Protestant cause in the Thirty Years’ War, and after several bril- liant victories and a glorious career, which raised Sweden to the proudest position she has ever occupied in history, he fell on 6th N ov., 1632, at the Battle of Liitzen. The war was continued under his daughter and successor Christina, under the able‘ regency of Owenstg‘ema. In 1635, by another treaty with Poland , Livonia was secured to Sweden for 26 years more. War broke out with Den- mark in 1643, but was terminated by the Peace of Bromsebro in 1645. At length, in 1648, the Thirty Years’ War was ended by the Peace of Westphalia. These treaties secured to Sweden Jemt— land and Herjedalen, the island of Gotland , the principalities of Bremen and Verden , part‘ of Pomerania with 'Stettin and the is- lands of Riigen , Usedom, and Wollin, and the town of Wismar, besides a considerable war indemnity and other advantages. Dur- ing the regency it was arranged that the royal council or cabinet X. HISTORY. lxv should consist of representatives of the supreme court of appeal, the council of war, the admiralty, the ministry of the interior, and the exchequer, presided over by the chief ministers of each department. The country was divided into 23 Ld'ne and 14 Lag- sagor, governed by Landshofdinge and Lagma'n respectively, which officials were to be appointed from the nobility. For these and many other reforms and useful institutions the country was indebted to the energy and enlightenment of Oxenstjerna. On the other hand, in order to fill the empty coffers of the state , it was found necessary to sell many of the crown domains, and to levy new taxes, and the evil was aggravated by the lavish extravagance of Christina and her favourites. Refusing to marry, and being unable to redress the grievances of her justly disaffected sub- jects, the queen in 1649 procured the election of Charles Gustavus or Charles X., son of the Count Palatine John Casimir of Zwei- briicken and a sister of Gustavus Adolphus, as her successor. By her desire he was crowned in 1654, whereupon she abdicated, quitted Sweden, and embraced the Romish faith. She terminated’ her eccentric career at Rome in 1689. Her successor endeavoured to practise economy, and in 1655 obtained the sanction of the Estates to revoke her alienations of crown property. War, however, interfered with his plans. John Casimir, king of Poland, son of Sigismund, now claimed the throne of Sweden, and compelled Charles to declare war against him (1655). After a time Russia, Austria, and Denmark espoused the cause of Poland, but Charles succeeded in gaining possession of Jiitland and the Danish islands, and the Peace of Roeskilde (1658) secured to him Skz‘ine, Halland, and Blekingen , but obliged him to cede the districts of Bohus and Throndhjem to Norway. On a renewal of the war with Den- mark, the Danes were aided by the Dutch, the Brandenburgers, the Poles, and the Austrians , who compelled Charles to raise the siege of Copenhagen, and on his sudden death in 1662 the Peace of Copenhagen was concluded, whereby the island of Bornholm was lost to Sweden. Charles X. was succeeded by his son Charles XL, a boy of four years, whose guardians endeavoured to make peace with foreign enemies. By the Peace of Oliva with Poland, Branden- burg, and Austria in 1660 the king of Poland finally ceded Li- vonia to Sweden and renounced his claim to the throne of Sweden, and by the Peace of Kardis with Russia in 1661 the Swedish con- quests in Esthonia and Livonia were restored to Sweden; but little was done to remedy the internal disorders of the country. One of the few events worthy of record at this period was the foundation of the university of Lund in 1668. Meanwhile the excesses and arrogance of the nobility, the squandering of the crown revenues, and the imposition of heavy taxes threatened .to ruin the country, and the regency even accepted subsidies from BAEoEKER’s Norway and Sweden. 2nd Edit. 6 lxvi X. HISTORY. foreign countries and hired out troops to serve abroad. At the age of seventeen Charles assumed the reins of government (1672). In 1674 he was called upon as the ally of France to take part in the war against Holland, Spain , and Germany, but the Swedish army was signally defeated at Fehrbellin by the Elector of Bran- denburg. Hereupon the Danes declared war against Sweden, causing new disasters, but by the intervention of the French peace was again declared at Lund in 1679. The distress occasioned by these defeats and popular indignation against the nobility, who were now in possession of five-sevenths of the land in Swe- den, and who did their utmost to reduce the peasantry to the con- dition of mere serfs, eventually served greatly to strengthen the king’s position. At the diet of Stockholm in 1680, after stormy ‘debates, it was determined to call the regency to account for their gross mismanagement of affairs , and the king was empowered to revoke the alienations made during his minority. The king was told that he was not bound to consult his cabinet, but to obey the laws, and that he was responsible to God alone. Another diet (1682) entrusted the king with the sole legislative power, merely expressing a hope that he would graciously consult the Estates. Charles was thus declared an absolute monarch, the sole right reserved to the diet being that of levying taxes. The king there- upon exacted large payments from his former guardians and exer- cised his right of revocation so rigidly that he obtained possession of about one-third of the landed estates in Sweden. The money ‘thus acquired he employed in paying the debts of the crown, in .re-organising his army and fleet, and for other useful purposes, while he proceeded to amend the law and to remedy ecclesiastical abuses. On his death in 1697 he left his kingdom in a strong and prosperous condition, and highly respected among nations. Under Charles XIL, the son and successor of Charles XL, this absolutism was fraught with disastrous consequences. Able, care- fully educated, energetic, and conscientious , but self-willed and eccentric, Charles was called to the throne at the age of fifteen and at once declared major. In 1699 Denmark, Russia, and Poland concluded an alliance against Sweden, which led to the great northern war. Aided‘ by England, Holland, and the Duke of Gottorp and Hanover, Charles speedily compelled the Danes to conclude the Peace of Travendal (1700), defeated the Russians at Narva, took Curland from the Poles (1701), and forced Elector Augustus of Saxony to make peace at Altranstadt, whereby the elector was obliged to renounce the Polish crown. Meanwhile Peter the Great of Russia had gained possession of Kexholm, Ingermanland, and Esthonia. Instead of attempting to regain these provinces, Charles, tempted by a promise of help from Ma- zeppa, a Cossack chief, determined to attack the enemy in an- other quarter and marched into the Uk.raine,.but was signally X. HISTORY. lxvii defeated by the Russians at Pultava (1709), and lost nearly the whole of his army. He escaped into Turkey, where he was hospi- tably received by the Sultan Achmed III. and supplied with money. Here he resided at Bender, and induced the Sultan to make war against Russia; but when the grand vizier had defeated the Czar he was bribed by Katherine, the courageous wife of Peter, to allow him to escape. This exasperated Charles and led to a quarrel with the Sultan , who placed him in confinement. Mean- while Denmark and Saxony again declared war against Sweden. Skane was successfully defended against the Danes , but Elector Augustus reconquered Poland, and the Czar took possession of Finland. The resources of Sweden were now exhausted , and the higher nobility began to plot against the king. At length Charles effected his escape and returned to Sweden (1715), to find that England, Hanover, and Prussia had also declared war against him owing to differences regarding Stettin and the principalities of Bremen and Verden. Having succeeded with the utmost difficulty in raising money, Charles now invaded Norway with an army of raw recruits and laid siege to Fredrikshald , where he fell at the early age of thirty-six (1718), just at the time when his favourite minister G'o'rtz was about to conclude a favourable peace with Russia. Brave, chivalrous, and at the same time simple in his manners and irreproachable in conduct, the memory of Charles is still fondly cherished by the Swedes. The short reign of abso- lutism (Envdldstiden) was now at an end, and we reach a period of greater independence (Frihctstiden; 1719-92). Charles XII. was succeeded by his sister Ulrika Eleonora, who with the consent of the Estates resigned in favour of her husband Frederick I. , crown-prince of Hessen-Cassel. At the same time (1720) a new constitution was framed by the Estates. The supreme power was vested in the Estates, a secret committee consisting of members of the three upper chambers, and a council or cabinet of nine members of the committee , three from each estate, to be nominated by the king himself. The kings authority was limited to two votes at the diet and a casting vote in case of an equally divided assembly, and the cabinet was declared responsible to the diet. In 1719 peace was concluded with England, upon the abandonment of Bremen and Verden, and in 1720 with Prussia, to which Stettin and part of Pomerania were ceded; then with Poland and Denmark; and in 1721 with Russia, to which Li- vonia, Esthonia, Ingermanland, and the districts of Kexholm and Viborg in Finland had to be made over. The kingdom now enjoyed an interval of repose, a new code of laws was drawn up (1734),- and efforts were made to revive commerce. The peace party was derisively called ‘Nightcaps’ (nattmo'ssor), or simply ‘Caps’, while a warlike party which now arose was known as ‘Hats’ (hattar). In accordance with the counsels of the latter, war was proclaimed 6* lxviii X. HISTORY. with Russia, which soon led to the loss of Finland (1741). On the death of the queen without issue, Adolphus Frederick of Holstein- Gottorp , a relation of the crown-prince of Russia, was elected as Frederick’s successor, on condition (Peace of Abo; 1743) that the greater part of Finland should be restored. The remainder of Frederick’s reign was tranquil, and he died in 1751. ' The prerogatives of his successor, Adolphus Frederick, were farther limited by the Estates. An attempt on the part of the king to emancipate himself led to a confirmation of the existing constitution, and to a resolution that a stamp bearing the king’s name should be impressed without his consent on documents ap- proved by the Estates (1756). The court vainly attempted to rebel, and the king was bluntly reminded that the Estates had power to depose him. In 1757 the ‘Hats’ recklessly plunged into the Seven Years’ War, and after an ignoble campaign peace was concluded at Hamburg in 1762. The ‘Caps’ were next in the ascendant, but the party disputes of this period were not con- ducive to national progress. In 1771 Adolphus was succeeded by his son Gustavus III., who by means of a preconcerted military revolution or eoup-d’e’tat (1772) succeeded in regaining several of the most valuable prero- gatives of the crown, including the sole executive power, whereby the government was converted from a mere republic into a limited monarchy. The king used his victory with moderation, abolished torture, introduced liberty of the press, promoted commerce, science, and art, and strengthened the army. On the other hand he was extravagant and injudicious, and in 1788 committed the error of declaring war against Russia without the consent of the Estates. His officers refused to obey him, and his difficulties were aggravated by a declaration of war and invasion of Sweden by the Danes. Gustavus now succeeded, with the aid of the middle‘ and lower classes, in effecting a farther change in the constitution (1798), which gave him the sole prerogative of mak- ing war and concluding peace, while the right of acquiring pri- vileged landed estates (frc'ilsegods) was bestowed on the peasantry. An armistice was concluded with Denmark, and the not unsuc- cessful hostilities with Russia led to the Peace of Varala (1790), which precluded Russia from future interference with Swedish affairs. Shortly afterwards, on the outbreak of the French Revo- lution, the king proposed to intervene, together with Russia and Austria, in favour of Louis XVI. and proceeded to levy new taxes, whereupon the disaffected nobles entered into a new conspiracy against him, and in 1792 this chivalrous and enlightened, though sometimes ill-advised monarch, fell by the dagger of Captain Anckarstriim . His son Gustavus Adolphus succeeded him as Gustavus IV., under the regency of his uncle Duke Charles of Sddermanland, X. HISTORY. lxix who avoided all participation in the wars of the Revolution. In 1800 Gustavus, in accordance with a scheme of his father, and in conjunction with Russia and Denmark, took up a position of armed neutrality, but Denmark having been coerced by England to abandon this position, and Russiahaving dissolved the alliance, Sweden was also obliged to yield to the demands of England. The king’s futile dreams of the restoration of absolutism and his ill- judged and disastrous participation in the Napoleonic wars led to the loss of Wismar, Pomerania, and Finland, and to his defeat in Norway (1803-8). The country being now on the brink of ruin, the Estates caused Gustavus to be arrested, and formally deposed him and his heirs (1809). He died in poverty at St. Gallen in 1837. His uncle was now elected king as Charles XIIL, and a new constitution framed, mainly on the basis of that of 1772. Peace was now concluded at Frederikshoamn with Russia (1809), to which the whole of Finland and the Aland Islands were ceded, with Denmark, and with France (1810), whereby Sweden recovered part of Pomerania. The king being old and childless, Prince Christian Augustus of Augustenburg, stadtholder of Norway, was elected crown-prince, but on his sudden death in 1810 the Estates elected Marshal Bernadotte, one of Napoleon’s generals, who was adopted by Charles, assumed the name of Charles John, and em- braced the Protestant faith. The crown-prince’s influence was directed to military organisation. The lukewarmness of Sweden in maintaining the continental blockade led to a rupture with France, and during the war with Napoleon the Swedes concluded a treaty with the Russians at be on the footing that the crown of Norway should be secured to Sweden (1812). England and Prussia having given the same assurance, Charles John marched with a Swedish contingent into Germany and assumed the com- mand of the combined northernarmy which took part in the de- cisive struggle against Napoleon (1813). The crown prince’s par— ticipation in the war was a somewhat reluctant one, but by the Peace of Kiel (1814) he succeeded in compelling Denmark to cede Norway to Sweden, while Denmark obtained possession of Swedish Pomerania and retained Iceland, Greenland, and the Faroes. The frequent changes which took place during this period in the Constitution of Sweden have already been mentioned. The Intellectual Progress of the country was greatly furthered by the Reformation. Peder Mdnsson (d. 1534), bishop of Vesteriis, wrote works on the army, the navy, medicine, and other subjects in the medizeval style, while Laurentz'us Petri (d. 1573), Lauren- tius Andrea’ (d. 1552), and others translated the Bible into Swedish and wrote Protestant theological works in their native tongue. L. Petri and his brother Olaus (d. 1552) also wrote Swedish chron- icles; Archbishop Johannes Magni was the author of a history of the kings in Latin, with a large admixture of the fabulous ele— lxx X. HISTORY. ment; and his brother Olaus wrote the often quoted ‘Historia de Gentibus Septentrionalibus’. An equally indiscriminate writer of history, and an author of dramatic and other works, was Johan Messenius (d. 1637). Even Gustavus Vasa had been anxious to preserve the purity of his native language, but it was not till the 17th cent. that scholars interested themselves in it. Queen Chris- tina, a talented and learned princess, was a great patroness of literature. She invited foreign savants to her court (Descartes, Grotius, and others), as well as native authors, including Johan Bureus (d. 1652) and the versatile and distinguished Giiran Lilje ('ennobled as George Stjernhjelm; d. 1672). At this period, too (1658), Jon Rugman first called attention to the treasures of Icelandic literature, and antiquarian and historical research now came into vogue. Stjernhiio'k, the jurist (d. 1675), and Widekindi (d. 1678), Verelius (d. 1682), Veroing(d. 1697), Rudbeck (d, 1702), and Peringskidlcl (d. 1720), the historians, were meritorious writers of this school. Hitherto German influence had preponderated in Sweden, but about the middle of the 18th cent. a preference began to be shown for the French style. To this school belong Olof von Dalin (d. 1763), the poet and historian, and Count Tessin (d. 1770), a meritorious art-collector, and among the scholars of the same period‘were Lagerbring, the historian (d. 1787), Johan Ihre, the philologist (d. 1780), and above all Karl con Linne' (d. 1778), the famous botanist. The ‘Vitterhets Akademi’ or ‘acad- emy of belles lettres’ founded in 1753 was extended by Gusta- vus III. so as to embrace history and antiquities, and he also founded the Swedish Academy. To the academic school belonged Kellgren (d. 1795) and Leopold (d. 1829), but a far more popu- lar poet, and one who repudiated all the traditions of French taste, was Bellman (d. 1795), the singer of sweet and simple ballads, whose ‘Fredmans Epistlar’ was deemed worthy of a prize even by the Academy, and whose memory is still fondly cherished. The Continued Union of Norway with Denmark. When Sweden withdrew from the Kalmar Union (1523) Nor- way at first remained faithful to Christian 11., but Vincentius Lunge procured the election of Frederick I. (1524). This king’s Protestant tendencies induced the Norwegians to re-elect Chris- tian II. in 1531 , when the deposed king appeared in Norway with an army, but he was treacherously arrested the following year and ended his life in captivity (see p. lxi). Frederick thus regained Norway and continued to prosecute the objects of the Reformation till his death (1533). The nobility and the Pro- testant party in Denmark elected his eldest son Christian III. as his successor, and the southern half of Norway under Lunge acquiesced. A rebellion of the northern provinces, which cost Lunge his life, was quelled, and the archbishop who had‘headed X. HISTORY. . 'lxxi it was obliged to quit the country. In 1536 Christian III. had promised the Danes to convert Norway into a Danish province, and he now abolished the council of state and otherwise partially kept his word. The doctrines of the Reformation permeated the country very slowly, but the dissolution of the monasteries and confiscation of church property were prosecuted with great zeal. The Norwegian towns now began to prosper and the trade of the country to improve , while the tyranny of the Hanse merchants at Bergen was. checked by Christopher Valkendorff (1536). In 1559 Christian was succeeded by his son Frederick 11., in whose reign occurred the calamitous seven years’ war with Sweden (1563-70), which sowed the seeds of national hatred between the countries, and caused the destruction of Oslo, Sarpsborg, and Hamar, the devastation of several agricultural districts, and the military oc- cupation of others. At the same time the country was terribly oppressed by Frederick’s officials, and he himself visited it once only. The sole benefit conferred by him on Norway was the foun- dation of Fredrikstad near the ruined town of Sarpsborg,. His son Christian IV. (1588-1648), on the other hand, visited Norway very frequently and was indefatigable in his reforms. He refused to grant fiefs in future to nobles who were not natives of Norway (1596), and he promulgated a Norwegian code (1604),. which was a revised edition of the laws of 1274 translated into Danish. He also published an ecclesiastical code (1607), and took energetic measures to exclude Jesuits from the country. At the same time the army was improved, trade was favoured, the silver- mines at Kongsberg (1624) and the copper-mines of Reros (1645) were established, the towns of Christiania (1624) and Christian- sand (1641) founded anew, and the Hanse factory at Bergen strictly controlled. All these benefits were outweighed by the disasters of the Kalmar War with Sweden (1611-13), during which the peas- antry gained their famous victory over the Scottish auxiliaries under Col. Sinclair at Kringelen (p. 119), and particularly those of the Thirty Years’ War in which Christian participated (1625- 1629). A second war with Sweden (1643-45) terminated with the severance of Jemtland and Herjedalen from Norway. _ New disasters befell Norway in the reign of his son Frede- rick 11. (1648-70). The result of the participation of Denmark and Norway in the Swedish-Polish war was that Norway finally lost Bahus-Lan, Idre, and Sarna. During this war Halden earned for itself the new name of Fredrikshald by the bravery of its de- fenders. These misfortunes, however, led to a rupture with the existing system of government. On ascending the throne Fred- erick had signed a pledge which placed him in the power of the nobility, but during the wars the incompetency of the council of state, and the energy of the king and citizens in defending Copen- i-hagen‘,‘ had‘ greatly raised him in the public estimation." At a diet lxxii . X. HISTORY. held at Copenhagen in 1660 the indignation of the clergy and burghers against the nobility burst forth, and they demanded the abolition of its oppressive privileges. It was next dicovered that the pledge given by the king was subversive of all liberty and progress , the king and the lower Estates proceeded to declare the succession to the throne hereditary, and Frederick was empowered to revise the constitution. The result was that he declared the king alone to be invested with sovereign and absolute power, and to this document he succeeded privately in procuring the signa- tures of most of the members of the diet. This declaration became law in 1661, but was not actually promulgated till 1709. These great changes were on the whole beneficial to Norway. The country was at least now placed on an equality with Denmark, and the strict bureaucratic administration was preferable to the old evils of local tyranny and individual caprice. The supreme authority now consisted of the heads of the five government de- partments , presided over by the king , and the feudal lords with their local jurisdictions were replaced by crown officials. Frederick’s son Christian V. (1670-99) was not unsuccessful in the Skiine war against Sweden (1675-79), but his chief merit as regards Norway was the promulgation of a code (1687), based on the Danish code of 1683, and of a church ritual for both coun- tries. The erection of the new counties or earldoms of Laurvig and Ternsberg, afterwards called Jarlsberg, and of the barony of Rosen- dal were unproductive of benefit to Norway. The unjust treat- ment of his minister Gri/fenfeld, who for a trivial offence suffered a cruel imprisonment for 22 years, forms a blot on this king’s memory. "" Christian V. was succeeded by his son Frederick IV. (1699- 1730), in whose reign was waged the great northern war in which the Norwegian naval hero Peter Vessel (ennobled under the name of Tordenskjold) took a prominent part. The sole gain to Den- mark by the Peace of Fredriksborg (1720) was the renunciation by Sweden of its immunity from Sound dues. The King husbanded his finances, but often procured money by discreditable means. He hired out mercenary troops, sold most of the crown-property in Norway, and granted a monopoly of the trade of Finmarken. These abuses, maladministration, and an attempt to alter the land laws so embittered the Norwegians that a union with Russia was actually proposed. In this reign a mission to Lapland was organised (1714), Th. v. Vesten being one of its chief promoters , and Hans Egede went as a missionary ‘to Greenland (1721 . Under Frederick’s son Christian VI. (1730-46) Norway was injuriously infected with'German Puritanism, which enjoined the utmost rigidity of church observances and abstention from all worldly amusements. Among the expedients used for reviving trade in Denmark was an oppressive enactment that S. Norway X. HISTORY. lxxiii should draw its sole corn supplies from that country. The fleet, however, was strengthened, an efficient militia organised, and education promoted. A long peace favoured the growth of com- merce and navigation, and the ‘Black Company’ formed in 1739 furthered manufacturing industry. In the reign of Frederick V. (1746-66) the grievous sway of Puritanism came to an end, and art and science were zealously cultivated. A mining school was founded at Kongsberg, and a mathematical school at Christiania, and at Throndhjem a useful scientific society was established by Gunnems, Schening, and Suhm, a learned Dane (1760-67). The frontier between Norway and Sweden was measured and defined (1759), facilities were afforded to commerce, and skilled miners introduced from Ger- many. Complications with Russia connected with the afiairs of Slesvig caused severe financial losses to Denmark and Norway, and the increased taxation provoked a revolt at Bergen, which, however, was soon quelled (1763). Notwithstanding these draw- backs, Norway prospered under the absolute monarchy, while Den- mark languished. The king in Denmark, being separated from the lower classes by a wealthy and influential aristocracy, was unable effectually to redress their grievances, and they still groan- ed under the evils of serfdom and compulsory service. With the exception of Copenhagen, the towns were almost equally oppressed, and in 1769 the whole population of Denmark did not exceed 800,000 souls. In Norway, on the other hand , the peasantry en— joyed freedom, the towns had thrown off the oppressive Hanseatic yoke, and feudal jurisdictions were abolished, while complaints against officials were addressed to the king in person. A class of native officials had also sprung up, affording an additional element of security. While the population had numbered 450,000 only in 1664, it rose to 723,000 in 1769. Within the same period the number of Norwegian ships had increased from 50 to 1150. The peasantry had benefited greatly by the sale of the crown estates, and the trade of Norway now far surpassed that of Den- mark. At the same time frequent intercourse with England and other foreign countries served to expand the Norwegian mind and to prepare the way for a period of still greater enlightenment and prosperity. . During the long reign of the imbecile Christian V11. (1766- 1808) his authority was wielded by his ministers. Strucnsee, his German physician, was the first of these. His measures were those of an enlightened absolutism. He simplified judicial procedure, abolished torture, excluded the lackeys of noblemen from public offices, deprived the aristocracy of their privileges, bestowed lib- erty on the press, and husbanded the finances. The peremptory manner in which these and other reforms were introduced gave great offencerparticularly as Struensee took no pains to conceal 1mm} x. HISTORY. his contempt for the Danes. Christian’s stepmother accordingly organised a conspiracy against him, and he was executed in 1772. His successor was Ove Guldberg, a Dane, who passed a law that Danes, Norwegians, and Holsteiners alone should be eligible for the government service, and rescinded Struensee’s reforms (1776). In 1780 an attitude of armed neutrality introduced by the able Count Bernstorjf gave a great impulse to the shipping trade, but the finances of the country were ruined. In 1784 the Crown- prince Frederick assumed the conduct of affairs with Bernstorfl" as his minister, whereupon a more liberal, and for Norway in partic- ular a more favourable era began. The corn-trade of S. Norway was relieved from its fetters, the trade of Finmarken was set free, and the towns of Tromse, Hammerfest , and Varde were founded. On a renewal of the armed neutrality (1800-1), England refused to recognise it, attacked Copenhagen, and compelled the Danes to abandon it. Six years later Napoleon’s scheme of using Denmark’s fleet against England led to a second attack on Copenhagen and its bombardment by the English fleet, which resulted in the sur- render of the whole Danish and Norwegian fleet to England (1807). Denmark, allied with France, then declared war both against England and Sweden (1808), and almost at the same period Christian died. On the accession of Frederick VI. (1808-36) the affairs of the kingdom were in a desperate condition. The English did not attack the country, but contented themselves with capturing as many Danish and Norwegian vessels as possible and ruining the trade of the country by blockading all its seaports. Owing to an over-issue of paper money the government was soon unable to meet its liabilities and declared itself bankrupt (1813). Meanwhile Norway was governed by a separate commission, presided over by Prince Christian Augustus of Augustenburg (1807), and was so well defended that it lost nothing by the peace of Jiinkiiping (1809). The independence of the peasantry, the wealth of the burghers, and the success of their country in the war against Swe- den naturally created in the minds of the Norwegians a proud sense of superiority over the unhappy Danes, while the liberality of their views widened the breach with a country still groaning under absolutism. A ‘Society for the Welfare of Norway’- was founded in 1810, and a Union with Sweden was warmly advocated, particularly by the talented Count Herman Wedel-Jarlsberg. The Danish government made some vain attempts to conciliate the Norwegians, as for example by the foundation of a university at Christiania (1811), which had been proposed so far back as 1661, but the Norwegians themselves provided the necessary funds. In concluding a treaty with the Russians in 1812, Sweden obtained their consent to its future annexation of Norway, and at the Peace of Kiel in 1814 the Danes were compelled to make the cession. x. HISTORY. ‘mt Frederick thereupon released the Norwegians from their allegiance to him, and the union of Norway with Denmark, which had sub- sisted for more than four centuries, was thus dissolved. The Literature of Norway from the Reformation to the end of the union is inseparable from that of Denmark. As translators of old northern laws and sagas may be mentioned L. Hanssen (d. 1596) and P. C. Friis (d. 1614), of whom the latter also wrote interesting works on Norwegian topography and natural history in his native dialect. A. Pedersen (d. 1574), of Bergen, was the author of a description of Norway and of the ‘Chapter-book of Bergen’. The historian and topographer J. Ramus (d. 1718) and the poet Peter Dass (d. 1708), the still popular author of ‘Nord- lands Trompet’, were also natives of Norway, while T. Torfeeus (d. 1719), a famous historian of Norway, was an Icelander. By far the most important author of this period was Ludvig Holberg of Bergen (d. 1754), the poet and historian, whose ‘Peder Paars’, the ‘Subterranean Journey of Nils Klim’, and comedies have gained him a European reputation. Among later poets and authors C. B. Tullin (d. 1765), J. H. Vessel (d. 1785), C. Fasting (d. 1791), E. Storm (d. 1794), T. de Stockfleth (d. 1808),v J. N. Brim (d. 1816), J. Zetlitz (d. 1821), and C. Friman (d. 1829) are noted for the national character and individuality of their writings , which are uninfluenced by the French and German taste then prevalent in Denmark. This national school was partly indebted for its origin to the foundation of the ‘N orske Selskab’ at Copenhagen in 1772, while the ‘Laerde Selskab’ of Throndhjem, founded by Gunnerus, the naturalist (d. 1773), and Schem'ng, the historian (d. 1780), promoted scientific research. On the whole , notwithstanding the want of good national schools, the Norwegian literature of this period ranks at least as high as the Danish. Union of Sweden and Norway. After the Peace of Jiinkiiping in 1809 Norway was governed by Prince Frederick of Hessen and afterwards by Christian Frederick, cousin of King Frederick and heir to his throne. Christian was a popular prince, and even after the terms of the Peace of Kiel had been adjusted he made an effort to secure the sovereignty of the country for himself. He summoned an assembly of notables to Eidsvold (Feb. 1814), stated the terms of the Peace of Kiel, which had not yet been published, and declared that he would assert his claim in spite of it. The assembly denied the right of the king of Denmark to hand over Norway to Sweden , but also declined to recognise the prince’s hereditary claim. They, however, appointed him regent until a national diet should be summoned to consider ‘the state of afl‘airs. The king of Sweden promised the Norwegians a liberal constitution if they would submit to his authority; but ‘his offer met with no response, the country eagerly prepared to lxxvi X. HISTORY. assert its independence, and a temporary government was con- stituted. On 10th April, 1814, the representatives of the country met at Eidsvold, a constitution framed chiefly by K. M. Falsen (d. 1830) was adopted on 17th May, and on the same day Christian Frederick was proclaimed king. Count Wedel-Jarlsberg, the most far-seeing of the Norwegian statesmen, who had urged a union with Sweden, was overruled on this occasion, but his object was soon afterwards attained. About the end of June ambassadors of the guaranteeing powers, Russia, England, Austria, and Prussia, arrived at Christiania to demand fulfilment of the Peace of Kiel and to recall the regent in the name of the king of Denmark. After fruitless negociations and the outbreak of a war with Swe- den, which was terminated by the Convention of Moss on 14th August, the Swedish regent temporarily recognised the new Nor- wegian constitution, and Christian summoned a Storthing to meet at Christiania in October, to which he tendered his resignation, and immediately afterwards set sail for Denmark. He afterwards reigned over Denmark as Christian VIII. (1839-48). During the same month the Storthing, though not without reluctance, affirmed the principle of union with Sweden, and several modifications were made in the Eidsvold constitution, and on 4th November Charles (XIII. of Sweden) was unanimously proclaimed king. On 10th November the crown-prince Charles John solemnly ratified the constitution at Christiania. With pardonable national pride, how- ever, the Norwegians still observe the 17th of May, 1814 , as the true date of their political regeneration. At first as regent, and after the death of Charles XIII. (1818) as king of Norway (1818-44), Charles John or Charles XIV. had a difficult task to perform in governing two kingdoms to which a few‘years previously he had been an entire stranger, and with whose languages he was imperfectly acquainted. The internal affairs of both countries were, moreover, in an abnormally unsettled condition, and their finances were well-nigh ruined, while foreign states looked askance at the parvenu king and his almost repub- lican kingdom of Norway. In 1815, however, the legislative au- thorities of the two kingdoms drew up a formal Act of Union, placing the connection of the countries on a satisfactory basis. By the sale of the island of Guadeloupe to England the king was enabled to pay part of the national debt of Sweden, and he adopted other wise financial measures. Among other serious difficulties was that of calling in the unsecured Danish banknotes still cir- culating in Norway, a task which occasioned heavy sacrifices, and at the same time a bank was founded at Throndhjem (1816). In 1821 a new burden was imposed by the unlooked for liability of Norway for- part of the'national debt of Denmark, while the intro- duction of anew educational system and other reforms was attended with great expense. About this period the king displeased his X. HISTORY. lxxvii democratic Norwegian subjects by opposing their abolition of titles of nobility (1821), by attempts to enlarge the prerogatives of the crown and to obtain for it the absolute right to veto the resolutions of the Storthing (1824), by appointing Swedish governors of Nor- way, and by yielding to what were considered the unjust demands of England in consequence of a fracas at Bode. On the other hand, by dint of rigid economy, sound administration, and the legalised sale of church property for educational purposes (1821), and owing to good harvests and successful fisheries, the prosperity of the country rapidly improved, while the king’s firmness ‘of character and his self-denial in renouncing his civil list for a period of ten years in order to assist in paying the national debt justly gained for him the respect and admiration of his people. From 1836 on- wards the highest offices in Norway were filled with Norwegians exclusively, and a new communal code (1837), penal code (1842), and other useful laws were passed. —- In Sweden the French re- volution of 1830 caused a great sensation and led to a fruitless demand for the abolition of the existing constitution. A conspiracy in favour of Prince Vasa (1832) and several riots in Stockholm (1838) were also unsuccessful. On the other hand the king earned the gratitude of his Swedish subjects by the zeal with which he promoted the construction of new roads and canals, particularly that of the Giita Canal, and furthered the interests of commerce and agriculture, and at the time of his death the internal affairs of both kingdoms rested on a sound and satisfactory constitutional basis. The administration of his son Oscar 1. (1844-59) was of a still more liberal and enlightened tendency. This gifted and highly educated monarch thoroughly remodelled the law of succession (1845) and the criminal code (1854) of Sweden, and abolished the monopolies of guilds, but he was unsuccessful in his attempts to procure a reform of the constitution (1845 and 1850-51). On his accession the king rendered himself popular in Norway by present- ing it with an appropriate national flag, and he was afterwards a scrupulous observer of the constitution of that country. At the same time the population and wealth of Norway now increased rapidly. His temporary interposition in the German and Danish war re- garding Slesvig, which led to the Armistice of Malmii (1848) and afterwards to the occupation of Northern Slesvig by Swedish and Norwegian troops, was regarded with favour in both of his king- doms , where patriotic Scandinavian views were then in the ascendant. _ Oscar’s eldest son Charles (XV. of Sweden; 1859-72), a highly popular, though pleasure-loving monarch, who was endowed with considerable artistic and poetical talent , inaugurated the present representative constitution of Sweden in 1865, while in Norway the triennial Storthing was made annual (1869). In both countries lxxviii X. HISTORY. the principle of religious equality was extended, new railways and roads constructed, and other reforms introduced. A threatened conflict between the representatives of the two countries was averted through the king’s influence, and to his wisdom was due the neutrality observed during the German and Danish war of 1863 and the Franco-German war of 1870-71, although his sub- jects warmly sympathised with the Danes in the one case and with the French in the other. In 1872 Charles was succeeded by his brother, the present king Oscar 11., a gifted prince, endowed like his father and elder brother with considerable taste for science, poetry, and music. Materially and intellectually his kingdoms have recently made rapid strides, and though, like many other countries, their progress has of late been somewhat checked by the failure of crops and stagnation of trade, it is hoped that these evils are transient. In both kingdoms the field of Literature has been most sedu- lously cultivated during the present century. In SWEDEN there existed an academic and a neutral school, both of which, as for example Franzén (d. 1847), were more or less influenced by French taste, while a romantic school with German proclivities, called ‘Phosphorists7 from their ‘Phosphorus’ periodical, was re- presented by Hammarskiild (d. 1827), Atterbom (d. 1855), and Palmblad (d. 1852). Akin to the latter, but of more realistic and far more national tendency, is the so-called ‘Giitisk’ school, to which belong the eminent historian E. G. Geijer (d. 1847), the great poet Esaias Tegnér (d. 1846), and the poet, and inventor of the Swedish system of sanitary gymnastics, P. H. Ling (d. 1839). An isolated position , on the other hand , is occupied by K. J. L. Almqvist (d. 1866), an author of fertile imagination, but perni- cious moral tendencies. To the highest class of modern Swedish authors belongs the patriotic Finn , J. L. Runeberg (d. 1877), of whose noble and genial poetry ‘Faurik Stiil’s Siigner’ afford an admirable example. As popular authoresses, though inferior to some of their above-mentioned contemporaries, we may mention Frederica Bremer (d. 1865) and Emilie Flygare- Carlén. Pre-emi- nent among scientific men are J. J. Berzelius, the chemist (d. 1848), E. Fries, the botanist (d. 1878), K. A. Agardh, the bota- nist and statistician (d. 1859), and Sven Nilsson, the venerable zoologist and antiquarian (b. 1787). Among modern historians may be mentioned A. M. Strinnholm (d. 1862), A. Fryzvell, F. F. Carlson, K. G. Malmstriim, C. T. Odhner, H. Reuterdal (church history; d. 1870), and C. J. Slyter (legal history); and to this period also belong B. E. Hildebrand and R. Dybeck, the anti- quarians, J. E. Rietz, the philologist, and C. J. Bostriim, the philosopher. —— In NORWAY , whose literature since 1814 has as- sumed a distinct national individuality, and though written in Danish has adopted a considerable number of words and idioms CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE. lxxix peculiar to the country, the poets H. Wergeland (d. 1845) and J. Velhaoen (d. 1873) occupy the foremost rank. Of the still liv- ing poets and novelists Bjernstjerne Bjernson, H. Ibsen, and J. Lie, the two former in particular have earned a well-merited reputation far beyond the confines of Norway. Of high rank among scientific men are N. H. Abel, the mathematician (d. 1829), C. Hansteen, the astronomer (d. 1873), and M. Sars (d. 1869) and his son 0. Sars, the naturalists. Eminent historians are R. Keyser (d. 1864), 1’. A. Munch (d. 1863), C. C. A. Lange (d. 1861), and the still living 0. Rygh, E. Sars, L. Daae, and G. Storm; distin- guished jurists, A. M. Schweigaard (d. 1870), F. Brandt, and T. H. Aschehoug; philologists, S. Bugge, C. R. Unger, J. Storm, and the lexicographer Ivar Aasen; meritorious collectors of national traditions, M. B. Landstad, J. Moe, and particularly P. 0. As- bjernsen. H. Ste/fens, the philosopher and poet (d. 1845), and C. Lassen, the Sanscrit scholar (d. 1876), were Norwegians who spent the greater part of their lives in Germany. Lastly, in the province of Art, we may mention the Norwegian painters Tidemand (d. 1877) and G'ude (b. 1825), and the Swe- dish sculptors Bystrdm (1848) and Fogelberg (d. 1854), but a glance at the galleries of Stockholm and Christiania will show that the list might easily be extended. _ Chronological Table. NORWAY. SWEDEN. Ynglingar Line. _ Ragnar Lodbr'ok’s Line. Harald Haarfagre . . . (‘9)860-933 Erik Blodcks . . 930 Haakon Adelstensfostre, ‘the Good‘ . . . . . . . . Harald Graafeld . . . . (?)961-975 Haakon Jarl . . . . . . (‘2)975 Olaf Tryggvason . . . 995 Erik ‘VII.’ Sejersael . . .(d.)995 . Olaf Sketkonung . . . . 995 Erik and Svejn, Jarler . . . 1000 H I Olaf Haraldssen, ‘the Saint‘ . 1015 Anund (Onund) Jakob . . . 1021 Svejn Knutssen . . . . . 1030 Magnus Olafssen, ‘the Good‘ . 1035 Harald Sigurdssen Hardraade 1046 Emund Slemme . . . . . (‘9)1050 . Slenlc'll’s Line. Olaf Haraldssan Kyrre . . . 1066 Stenkil . . . . . . . . (?)1056 Magnus Olafssen Barfod . . 1093 Inge I. Stenkilsson . . . . 1066 Olaf Magnusssn . . . . 1103-16 Bystejn Magnusssn . . . 1103-22 Philip Hallstensson . . . 1111-19 Sigurd Jorsalafarer . . . 1103-30 Inge Hallstensson . . . ('?)1111-23 Sverkefs Line. Magnus Sigurdsson Blindev 1130-35 I Harald Magnusso'n Gille . 1130-36 Sverker Kolsson . '. . . . 1132 Sigurd Haraldssfln Mund . 1136-55 Inge Haraldssen Krokryg . 1136-61 .Gystejn Haraldssen . . . . 1142 _ , Haakon Sigurdssen Herdebred 1157 Erik IX. J edvardsson, ‘the‘Sarnt 1150 Magnus Erlingssgn . . 1161 Karl VII., Sverkersson . . 1160 lxxx CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE. NORWAY. Sverre Sigurdssen Haakon Sverressen Guttorm Sigurdssen . Inge Baardssen. . . . . . Haakon Haakonsssn, ‘the Old’ Magnus Haakonssen Lagabeter Erik Magnussen . . . . . Haakon V., Magnussen Magnus Erikssen, ‘Smek’ . Haakon VI.. Magnussen I Olaf Haakonssen, ‘the Young2 Margaret, ‘Valdemarsdatter‘ . DENMARK AND NORWAY. Erik of Pomerania Christopher of Bavaria Karl Knutssen . . Christian I. . Hans Christian II. Frederick I. . Christian III. Frederick II. Christian IV. Frederick III. . Christian V. Frederick IV. Christian VI. Frederick V. Christian VII. . Frederick VI. . . . . - Christian Frederick . Charles (XIIL). . . Charles (XIV.) John. Oscar I. . . . Charles (XVJ . Oscar II. . . 1263 1299 1319 1355 1381 1387 1524 1537 1 559 1588 1648 1670 1699 1746 1818 1872 SWEDEN. Knut EriksSOn . Sverker Karlsson . Erik X. Knutsson Johan Sverkersson . . . Erik XL, Eriksson Laespe Folkungar Line. Valdemar Birgersson Magnus Ladulfis Birger Magnusson . Magnus Eriksson, ‘Smek’ . 250 1276 1290 1319 Other Lines, and Administrators. 363 Albert of Mecklenburg . SWEDEN wrrn DENMARK AND NORWAY. Margaret . . . . SWEDEN. Erik XIII. of Pomerania . Karl Knutsson, Administrator Christopher of Bavaria . Karl VIII., Knutsson Christian I. . , . . ~. Karl VIII., Knutsson . . Sten Sture, Administrator Svante Nilsson . . . Sten Sture the Younger Christian II. . . . The Vasa Line. Gustavus Vasa. . . . . Erik XIV. John III. . Sigismund Charles IX. . . Gustavus Adolphu. Christina . . . . Palat-inate Charles K. . Line. Charles XI. ~ 0 0 Charles XII. . . . . Frederick of Hessen . Holstein Line. Adolphus Frederick . . Gustavus III. . . . . . Gustavus IV. . . . . . . Charles XIII. . . . . . . Bernadolte Family. Charles XIV. . . . . . . Oscar I. . . . Charles XV. . Oscar II. . . 1387 1. Christiania and Environs. Arrival. The large steamers from London, Hull, Hamburg, etc., usually land ‘their passengers at the Toldbodbrygge or the Jernbanebrygge, the two principal quays near the Custom House (Pl. D, E, 7). Porterage from the steamer, on board of which luggage is slightly examined, to one of the principal hotels: 30 o. for 601bs. or under, 40 9. for 60-140lbs. Cab with one horse from the quay to one of the hotels 40, 60, 80 6., 0r 1 kr. for 1, 2, 3, or 4 persons respectively, with 50lbs. of luggage free; with two horses 80 91., 1 kr., or 1 kr. 20 e. for 1-2, 3, or 4 persons, with 1001bs. of luggage free. At night (11p.n1. to 8a.m.) the fares are 805., 1 kr., 1 kr. 20, or 1 kr. 40, and 1 kr. 20. 1 kr. 50, or 1 kr. 80 a. respectively. To prevent disputes, a party of 3-4 persons, with heavy luggage, will find it preferable to engage one vehicle for themselves and another for their boxes. —- Travellers by railway from Sweden arrive at the 9'st— or Hoved- banegaard (Pl. D, 6), where luggage is slightly examined, and from Dram— men at the Vestbanegaard (P1. B, 7). Porterage and cabs thence to the hotels, see above. Hotels. *Vro'ronra (Pl. h: C, D,7)._ at the corner of the Raadhus-Gade and Dronningens-Gade, a large, old-established house; *Ho'rar. SKANDINAVIE (Pl. f: C, D,6), at the corner of the Karl-Johans-Gade and the Dronningens- Gade, very central; GRAND HOTEL (Pl. B,C,6), Karl-Johans-Gade, at the E. end of the Eidsvolds-Plads; BRITANNIA (Pl. a: D, 7), at the corner of the Toldbod-Gade and Store Strand-Gade, smaller, the nearest to the uay, well spoken of. Charges at these about the same: R. from 2, B. 1-2, D. 3-31/2, L. and A. 1 kr. -- ANGLETERRE (Pl. b: C, 7), at the corner of the Raadhus-Gade and the Kongens-Gadez, *ROYAL HOTEL (Pl. e: D, 6), un- pretending, R. 2 kr., L. & A. 40 16.; S'rocxnonn (Pl. g: D, 6), opposite the .Ostbanegaard; KONG KARL (Pl. d: D, 6), Jernbane-Torv; KONG OSCAR, near the Vestbanegaard. Charges at these: R. 11/2, B. 1, D. 2—21/2kr. -— Hotel Garni, Dronningens-Gade 13, near the Exchange, well spoken of (landlord speaks English). Restaurants. At the hotels; *(‘hristoflersem corner of Bankplads and Kirke-Gade, Café Central, Storthings-Plads 7, to the left beer-saloon, to the right restaurant; Fm'murerlogen, Grev Wedels Plads; another at the Tivoli (see below). -— Cafes. *‘Baumann, Q'vre-Slotsgade 10; Giinther, Kirke-Gade 16. Cabs. (The drivers are called ‘Vognmaendj. Per drive within the town, with one horse, 40, 60, 80 at, or 1 kr. for 1, 2, 3, or 4 persons; with two horses 80 0., 1 kr., 1 krr 20 a. for 1-2, 3, or 4 persons. At night (11 p.m. to 8 a.m. from 1st May to 30th Sept; 10 p.m. to 9 a.m. during the rest of the year), the fares are higher (see above). -— By time, within the town and immediate environs: with one horse, 1 kr. 20, 1 kr. 50, 1 kr. 80, or 2kr. 10 n. for 1, 2,3, or 4 persons per hour, with two horses, 2 kr., 2 kr. 5O 16., or 3 kr. per hour. Skyds. The posting-station (‘Skydsstation’) is kept by Iversen, Grubbe- gade 3. — OMNIBUs to Grefsen (p. 12) several times daily, starting from Simonsen‘s, in the Stortorv. Tramway (Sporvogn). From the Sim-tom), or principal market-place ad- joining Vor Frelsers Kirke, to the Vestbanegaard (W .), Homansby (N.W.), Grilnerle'lcken (N.E.), and Oslo (S.E.), every 5 or 10 min. from about 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. on week-days, and from about noon to 10 .m. on Sundays. Fare for each of these trips 15 o. —- As there are no con uctors, each passenger drops his fare into an ingenious box placed near the driver. The coins fall on a slide where they are seen through a pane of glass by the driver, who then tilts them into the box below. The drivers give change, but have no access to the money-box. This system, the success of which BAEDnKER's Norway and Sweden. 2nd Edit. 1 2 Route 1. CHRISTIANIA. Shops. depends to some extent on the honesty of the passengers, works well where the traffic is inconsiderable. It is used at Stockholm also. Porterage. From the stations or quays to any part of the town 30 £1. for luggage under 601bs., and 40 6. for 60-1401bs. —— Bybad, or commis- sionnaires, may also be employed at a moderate tarifl‘. Post and Telegraph Offices, at the corner of the Kirke-Gade and Karl-Johans-Gade (Pl. C, 6). Post-Office (P1. 27) open from 8 a.m. to 7.30 p.m.; Sundays 8-10 a.m. and 5-8 p.m. Telegraph Office (P1. 32), open daily from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.; open at night also for foreign telegrams. Banks (open 102). Norslce Credit-Bank, at the corner of the Kirke- Gade and Prindsens-Gade; Christiania Bank and C'I‘Cd’it-KGSSC, Torvet, W. side, Nol-rges Bank, Bank-Plads; Th. Joh. Hefty/ed: Son, Toldbod-Gade 20; N. A. Andressen re 00., Kirke-Gade 6. At any of these circular notes may be changed. Consulates. American: Prindsens-Gade; Mr. Gerhard Gade, consul, Mr. C. E. R. Chrz'stophersen, vice. British: Prindsens-Gade 26; Mr. Mitchell, consul-general; Mr. Septz'mus Crowe, vice. Railway Stations. Gstbanegaard, or Hovedbanegaard (PLD, 6), on the E. side of the Karl-Johans-Gade, for Eidsvold (Throndhjem), Kongsvinger, Sweden, and Fredrikshald. Vestbanegaard (Pl. B, 7), on the Pipervik, on the W. side of the town, for Drammen, Randsfj 0rd, Krederen. and Kongsberg. Shops. Booksellers: Cammermeye-r, Karl-Johans-Gade 33 (publisher of ‘Norges Communicationer’ and of ‘Nissen‘s Reisekart over Norge‘, 6 sheets at 11/2 kr. per sheet); Dybwad, adjacent, No. 2', J. W. Cappelen, Kirke- Gade. —— Jewellers (noted for filigree work): Toslrup, Kirke-Gade 20', Thane, Karl-Johans-Gade, S. side, near the .Gvre Slots-Grade, 1). Andersen, opposite Tostrup‘s, Kirke-Gade 19, cheaper. —- Antiquities: Gram, Torvet 11b. —- Bazaar (Travelling Requisites): Vollmann, Kongens-Gade 22; W. Schmidt, agent of the Turist-Forening, Kirke-Gade 23. —— Stationery, Photographs, etc.: Olsen, Karl-Johans-Gade, near the Hotel Skandinavie; G-ranvold, Kongens-Gade 29; Andvord, Karl-Johans-Gade 2. — Preserved meats, ete.: E. Lezvow d: 00., Toldbod-Grade 8:, C. J. Chr'istophersen rt‘ 00., under the Hotel Skandinavie, Bergwt'tz, Q'vre Slots-Gade. —— Shoemaker: Solberg, Karl-Johans-Gade, near the Skandinavie. — Travelling requisites of allikinds may also be purchased of Mr. T. Bennet, Store Strand- Gade 7. Turist-Forening (see Introd. iv.). Secretary, Mr. H. R. Hstgaard, Rigsarkivet (in the building of the Storthing, p. 6). Newspapers at the principal hotels, and at the Athenazum (p. 6), Akers- gaden, at the back of the Storthings Building, a reading-club to which travellers are admitted for a fortnight when introduced by a member. Baths. Badeanstalt (Pl. C, D,5), Torv-Gaden, a. large building on the N.W.side of the street, with hot (5013.), cold, and shower (30 :6.) baths for both sexes. Vapour and other baths at the Rigshospt'tal (Pl. 0, 6). —— Baths in the Fjord: Hygaea (20 e.) and Selyst (15 it), for swimmers. Also a Badehus for Damer. These three establishments are situated at the S. extremity of the town, near the fortress. The water is almost entirely fresh. The rise and fall of the tide averages 1-2 ft. only. Theatres. Kristiania-Theater (P1. 33), at the S. end of the Kirke- Grade. Performances usually four times weekly, except in summer. Boxes 2% kr., pit 1 kr. 60 £1. —— Folke- Theater, Mollergade 3. -- At the Tivoli (formerly Klingenberg, Pl. B, 7; with a restaurant), in the Eidsvolds-Plads, nearly opposite the University, concerts and theatrical performances take place daily; admission x/z-1 kr. —-— Military Music daily at 2-3 p.m. (Sun. 12.30 to 1.30), and occasionally in the evening, in the Studenterlunden ' (Pl. B, 6), the promenades opposite the University (refreshments in the Pavilion). Steamers to London, on alternate Thursdays; to Hall on Fridays; to Glasgow once a fortnight (cabin fare 3gs., return 4gs.)-, to Gothen- burg three or four times, and to Copenhagen twice weekly; to Christian- sand daily; to Bergen five times weekly; to Throndhjem four times weekly; to Tromse twice weekly; to Hammerfest once weekly; to the North Cape and Vadsa once weekly. All these vessels start from the §€§§52§ wfifisiopwnd hnflwgrfloba .. ._ 1A. . x. h l H . m ‘I ».T wk? .1... \. ...\ . I. L \ . . . Q I . . . ‘ f‘ \ , I . < . _ . I”. . - .v . I. I, , . ,T V v . 2 1 . / ‘Q .7? . . . . .. \11... \ . . ‘ ~ ; ‘ J43 , . ‘ . _ , .1 I, . . I . . l . . / T _ . . . . . . M/v . . m A , . . M . .u a b . .. ¢ ‘ w. \ , o . I , a 6 v u j 1 A I ..: w. .. . 1 . M. g . ) v . Q ¢L\23 4,. z, ¢/w% . ' '~.l‘; Z0 ., Ir 4. ./ . 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D, E, 7). -— Small steamers ply from the Jernbanebrygge to Mass, Horteu, Fred- rilcstad, Fredrikshald, Ternsberg, and the islands in the Bundejfiord; and also from the Pipervik (Pl. A, B, 8) to Fredriksborg on the Ladegaardsc, once or oftener daily, afl‘ording pleasant excursions. — For these, besides a number of other steamers to places on the fjord, Drammen, etc., see ‘Norges Communicationer‘. Small Boats may be hired of the ‘Foergemocnd’ on the Pipervik and at the Baadforening by the fortress for 1 kr. 20 a. per hour. An excursion may be made by boat to the Hoveda, with its scanty monastery ruins, to visit which (strictly speaking) permission from the commandant of the fortress is required (p. 11). English Church Service in the Festsal of the University, S.E. wing. Resident chaplain (Rev. Austin West). Principal Attractions. View from St. Hanshauge-n, about 1 Engl. M. to the N. of the Storthings Building (see p. 6). Walk or drive from the .Ustbanegaard across the Jernbane-Torv, and through the Karl-Johans-Gade, passing the Storthings Building (p. 6) on the left and the University (p. 7) on the right, to the Slot, or Palace (p. 10). Museum of Sculptures and National Gallery (p. 8). Excursion to Oscars-hall (p. 10). Christiania, the capital of Norway, with 77,000 inhab. (almost exclusively Protestants), beautifully situated at the N. end of the Christiania Fjord and on the W. bank of the small Alters-Eli), in 59° 54’ N. lat. and 100 50’ E. long., was founded by Christian IV. in 1624 on the plain to the N. of the fortress of Akershus, and named after him, being intended as a substitute for the older town of Oslo, on the E. bank of the stream, which had been almost entirely burned down in that year. Oslo, founded by Harald Hardraade about the year 1050, afterwards became a depot of the Hanseatic League and the capital of Norway, but was burned down by its inhabitants in 1567 to prevent its falling into the hands of Swedish besiegers, and was again destroyed in 1624. It once possessed a richly endowed cathedral, dedicated to St. Halvard, Where several of the Norwegian kings were interred, and where James I. of England married Anne of Denmark in 1589. Christiania is the seat of government and of the supreme court of Norway, and the headquarters of the Storthing or parliament. It also boasts of a University, containing several scientific collections, a National Picture Gallery, an Observatory, a Royal Palace, and a number of charitable and other institutions. The chief exports are timber, fish, beer, and various manufactured goods, and the im- ports wheat, wine, etc., the former being valued at about 12, and the latter at 27 million kroner per annum. The town now possesses about 190 vessels, of an aggregate burden of 55,000 tons, about a dozen of which are steamers, of an aggregate burden of about 1600 tons. In the neighbourhood are several considerable engine-works, breweries, cotton-mills, and paper-manufactories, most of which lie on the Akers-Elv. _. Owing to its comparatively recent origin, as well as to destructive fires by which it was visited in 1686, 1708, and 1858,: Christiania now presents a substantial modern appearance, most of the old timber—built houses having disappeared. Beyond the beauty of the 1s: 4 Route 1. CHRISTIANIA. Vor-Frelsers-Kirke. situation at the foot of gently sloping, grassy, and pine-clad hills, with the picturesque fjord stretching into the distance , studded with islands, and enlivened with occasional steamboats and sailing vessels, the town offers few inducements for a prolonged stay. Our walk or drive through the principal streets includes the chief points of interest, all of which may be visited in half-a-day, if the traveller is pressed for time. A couple of hours should also, if possible, be devoted to the excursion to Oscarshall (p. 10). Starting from the Toldbodbrygge, or Custom House Quay (Pl. D, 7), situated on the Bjeroik, the bay which bounds the town on the S.E., and proceeding to the N., we come in 4 min. to the .Gstbanegaard, or Eastern Railway Station (Pl. D, 6), which is also known as the Hooed-Banegaard (‘principal railway-station’), the terminus of the lines to Eidsvold, Sweden, and Fredrikshald (Smaalens-Bane), a handsome building erected by Schirmer and v. Hanno in 1854 and enlarged in 1879. On the N. side of the ad- joining Jernbane- Tor'v is the Royal Hotel (p. 1). Leaving the rail- way -station , we cross the market-place to the W. and ascend the Karl-Johans-Gade, the most important street in the town. On the left (2 min.), at the corner of the Dronningens-Gade, is the Hotel Skandinavie (p. 1), opposite to which is a handsome building con- taining the Brandvagt (Pl. 3 : C, 6), or fire-station, and the Basarer (‘bazaars’), occupied by butchers, poulterers, etc. On the right, a few paces farther on, and adjoining the Brandvagt, lies the S'ron- Tonv (Pl. C, 6; ‘great market’), usually known simply as Torvet (‘the market’). It is adorned with a Statue of Christian I V., by Jacobsen. On the E. side of the market-place rises —- Vor-FreIsers-Kirke (P1. 16), or Church of Our Saviour, a large cruciform edifice with a conspicuous tower, consecrated in 1697, and restored by Chateauneuf in 1849-56. The altar-piece, re- presenting Christ in Gethsemane, is by the German artist E. Steinle, and the marble font by Fladager. Fine view from the dwelling of the fire-watchman in the tower. -— The fl'oro-Gade leads hence to the N., passing on the left the Dampkjekken (‘steam kitchen’), a large establishment for the benefit of the poorer classes, where about 2000 persons are daily provided with dinners for 25- 45 e. each. Some of the customers carry away their food, while others dine at large marble tables provided for the purpose. A few paces farther on in the same direction is the Nytorv (‘new market’), on the left side of which rise the Byret (‘municipal court’) and the Politikammer (Pl. 4), or police-office. Beyond this market-place, on the left side of the same street, is situated the Badeanstalt (Pl. D, 5; p. 2), a handsome building, suitably fitted up. (The entrance to the ladies’ baths is at the back.) The Akers- Gade, leading to St. Hanshaugen (p. 6), is only 3 min. walk from this point. The Torv-Gade then leads to the N., past Anker- lekkens-Gravlund, to the Akerselv, which forms several waterfalls Akershus. CHRISTIANIA. 1. Route. 5 higher up. Adjoining the falls are numerous manufactories, some of which are of considerable size. On the E. bank of the river lies the well-built suburb of Gritner Leklte'n, with the Olaf Rye’s Ptads. -— We retrace our steps to the Karl-Johans—Gade, cross it, passing the — Post and Telegraph Offices (P1. ‘27, 32; C, 6), at the corner of that street and the Kirke-Gade, and follow the latter. After 3 min. we cross the Raadhus—Gade, in which the Victoria and Angle- terre hotels (p. 1) are situated, and a little farther on reach the Theatre (PI. 33), erected in 1637, opposite to which, on the W. side of the Bank-Ptads, is situated Norges Bank (P1. ‘25). To the E. is Grev-Wedels—Plads, with pleasure-grounds, adjoining which is the Freemasons’ Lodge. A little to the S. of the Bank, we next reach the fortress of —- Akershus, or Agershus (Pl. 0, 8), situated on the E. bank of the Piperoik. The date of its foundation is unknown, but it is mention- ed as having been besieged by Duke Erik of Sweden in 1310. In 1355-80 the works were extended by Haakon VI., and they were farther strengthened in the 16th-18th centuries, but have since _ been partially levelled, and are now of no military importance. The castle was besieged unsuccessfully by Christian II. in 1531-32, and by the Swedes in 1567 and 1716. Charles XIL, who conducted the siege on the latter occasion, was signally defeated a few months later near Fredrikshald by Tordenskjold (d. 1720), the famous Norwegian naval hero, a native of Throndhjem 216). The for- tress itself now contains nothing noteworthy, but those who have leisure may visit the Rustkammer, or armoury, on applying at the office of the Felttcimester (‘master of the ordnance’, in the ‘Artilleri- gaard’), where permission to visit the monastery ruins on the Hovede (p. 11) is also granted. The Ormegaarden, or court, is also of historical interest. Adjoining the ramparts, which have been con- verted into pleasant promenades, affording beautiful views, are the Bath-houses (Pl. 0, D, 8) mentioned on p. 2, that for ladies being at the extremity of the promontory between the Pipervik and the Bjervik. Retracing our steps to the Bank-Plads and the Raadhus-Gade, we turn to the left and soon reach the Johanskirke (P1. 13; C, 7), built of yellow brick (‘Flensburger Sten’), and completed in 1878. It contains a good altar-piece by Eilif Petersen, eight monolithic granite columns , and a marble font. The sacristan (‘kirketjener’) lives at Akersgade 1, on the W. side of the church. The Raadhus- Gade now descends to the W. to the Piper'vilc, where we observe opposite to us the handsome Vestbanegaard, and obtain a fine view of the fjord, with the rocks of Akershus rising on the left. We next proceed to the N. by the Tordenskjolds- Gade to the *ErnsvoLns— PLADS , a fine square, planted with trees, on the E. (right) side of which rises the -—~ 6 Route 1. CHRISTIANIA. Trefoldigheds-Kirke. *Storthings-Bygning (P1. 30: C, 6), or assembly-hall of the Norwegian Parliament, a handsome edifice, half Romanesque, half Byzantine, designed by Langlet, and completed in 1866. The facade, flanked with two lions in granite by Borch, overlooks the Plads, and the N. side adjoins the Karl-Johans-Gade. The Interior (shown by the ‘Vagtmester’ or custodian, who is to be found at the entrance from the Storthings-Gade, on the S. side of the building, fee 1/;-1 kr.), which is handsomely fitted up, comprises the Storthings- Sal, with accommodation for about 150 deputies and an audience of 300 persons, and the smaller Lagthings-Sal, with seats for about 40 members and 130 visitors, besides which there are several com- mittee-rooms, a library, secretary’s office, archives room (Riks- arki'vet), and other apartments. Prior to 1866 the Storthing met in the Departements- Gaard, in the Dronningens-Gade, which is now occupied by various government offices. The Storthing sits annually in February and March, but not longer without permission from the king, to whom also belongs the prerogative of summoning it to meet at other times if necessary. The usual summer-session, held by royal permission, lasts till the middle of June. In the Akers-Gade, at the back of the Storthings-Hus, is the Athenaeum (Pl. 1; see p. 2), the finest modern building in the town. Following the Akers-Gade towards the N., we next reach the Trefoldigheds-Kirke (P1. 15: C, 5, 6), or Church of the Trinity, on the right, a Gothic edifice, partly designed by Chdteauneuf, and erected in 1853-58. The interior forms a handsome octagon. It contains an altar-piece (Baptism of Christ) by Tidemand and a font with an angel by Middelthun. A few paces beyond it is the Roman Catholic St. Olafs-Kirke (P1. 14), erected in 1853, with a school at the back, where the road divides. The Akersoei, to the right, leads past the E. side of Vor Frelsers Cemetery in 6 min. to the Gamle Akers Kirke (Pl. B, 4'), the oldest church in Christiania, which was founded in the 11th cent , and restored in the original style by Schi'rmer and 1;. Hanna in 1861. The Ullevoldsoei, to the left of St. Olafs—Kirke, leads past the W. side of *Vor-Frelsers- Gravlund, a well-shaded cemetery, embellished with flower-beds, and provided with numerous benches for the use of mourners. The N. part forms a pleasant park, and commands fine views. On an eminence near the entrance is the monument of Henrik Wergeland (d. 1845), the most famous of Norwegian poets, erected by ‘grateful Jews’ in recognition of his successful eiforts in obtaining liberty for them to settle in Norway. In 5 min. more we reach -- *St. Hanshaugen (‘St John’s Hill’; Pl. A, 3, 4; cab from the Stor—Torv 40 e. and upwards, and half-fare returning, see p. 1), an eminence about 150 ft. above the sea-level, on the summit of which there is a reservoir belonging to the city waterworks. This point commands an excellent survey of the town‘, the fjord and University. CHRISTIANIA. 1. Route. 7 islands beyond it, the Ekeberg (p. 12) to the left, Oscarshall (p. 11) to the right, and Frognersaeter on the hill to the N.W. (see p. 12). The view is rather more extensive from the building at the N. end of the reservoir. The attendant, for whom the visitor rings, names the chief points, and lends a telescope (fee 40 e. or upwards). We now return by the same route, or by the St. Olafs- Plads, to the W. of the church of that name, to the Karl-Johans- . Gade, where we next visit the —- University (Pl. B, 6), a handsome edifice in the classical style, with two wings at right angles to it. The establishment was found- ed by Frederick VI. in 1811, but as the various lecture—rooms were scattered throughout the town, the present building was erected in 1841-53 by Grosch, whose design was partly suggested by Schinkel of Berlin. There are five faculties with a staff of 53 professors, who lecture gratis to upwards of 1000 students. In front of the building extends that part of the Eidsvolds-Plads known as Studenterlunden (Cafe' in summer; music, see p. 2), embellish- ed with a Statue of Henrik Wergeland (p. 6), by Bergslien. The E. wing, containing the Festsal (English service, p. 3), is known as the Domus Academica, and the W. wing is occupied by the Library, consisting of 250,000 vols., and reading-room (open on the first five days of the week, 12-2). ' The University possesses several Collections of considerable value, which may be visited if time permits. OoLLEoTIoN 0F NORTHERN ANTIQUITIES (in the E. wing, Mon. and Frid. 12-2). Ascending the staircase, we turn to the left and follow a passage leading to the Cabinet of Coins (see below) and the Antiquities. The latter are arranged in seven rooms. Room 1. (that farthest to the right): relics of the flint and bronze ages. Rooms 11., 111., and IV. are devoted to the earlier and later parts of the iron period. Room V. con- tains medieeval relics (A.D. 1000-1500), the chief of which have their names and dates attached. Among them are three *Church-portals carved in wood, dating from the 12th-13th centuries. Room V1. contains several other interesting door-posts and portals of the same period. Room V1]. is occupied with curiosities of later date than 1500, including tankards in wood and metal, bridal crowns, trinkets, fire-arms. and tools. —— The —- CABINET or‘ COINS (E. wing, adjoining the Antiquities; Mon. and Frid., 1-2) is a valuable collection, numbering 45.000 specimens. -—The-— ZOOLOGICAL MUSEUM (central building, Sun.. Mon., Frid., 12-2) is reached by ascending the staircase. turning to the left, and entering the last door on the left. In the 1st (Reading) Room, birds, etc.; in the 2nd R. is a well-arranged zoological collection; in the 3rd R., fish and rep- tiles. —— We now pass a staircase on the left descending to the Zootomic Museum (see below), and enter the 4th and 5th Rooms, which contain an extensive and valuable collection of birds. —- The staircase above men- tioned descends to the -— ZOOTOMIC MUSEUM (central building; Mon. and Frid., 12-2), a care— fully arranged collection of skeletons and anatomical preparations. The adjoining Anthropological Collection is generally closed. The BOTANICAL MUSEUM (central building, passage to the right at the top of the staircase; Mon.. 12-2) and the adjacent MINERAL CABINET (Frid., 124) will interest scientific travellers only. . - ETHNOGRAPHICAL Museum (central building, reached by a staircase in the NW. corner, from the garden at the back; Mon. and Frid., 1-2). let Room: Scandinavian costumes, furniture, and implements. 2nd R..' 8 Route 1. CHRISTIANIA. National Gallery. Laplander’s tent, reindeer, and pulk. Another staircase now ascends to a series of small rooms containing articles of dress, implements, utensils, armour, weapons. manufactures, etc., from other parts of the world. A shed behind the central part of the university contains a Viking Ship, excavated at Sandefjord (p. 32) in 1880 and supposed to date from the 9th century. It is 76 ft. long and 14-16 ft. broad. Adm. on Mon. and Frid., 12-2 (at other times for a fee). COLLECTIONS 0F MODELS (central building; Mom, 12-1), uninteresting. The Anatomical, Pathological, and Pharmacological Museums and the collections of Physical, Surgical, and Obstetrical Instruments (all in the central building) are shown on application to the medical authorities. Connected with the University —- _ COLLECTION OF CHEMICAL PREPARATIONS (in the adjacent Laboratory, in the Fredriks-Gade; Mon., 12-1). METALLURGIC LABORATORY (in the Laboratory just mentioned ; daily, 9-2). OBSERVATORY (Pl. A, 8), Drammens-Vei, about 1/2 Engl. M. to the W. of the University (shown on a plication). BOTANIC GARDEN (Pl. E, F, ), with its library, 3/4 Eng]. M. to the of the Stortorv, and reached by the Stor-Gade and the Throndhjems-Vei. On days when the above collections are closed, visitors may usually obtain access to them by applying to one of the professors. To the N. of the University, in the Universitetsgade, is the handsome *Museum of Art (P1. 21), built in the Italian Renais- sance style by Adolf Schz'rmer and presented to the town by the Kristiania Sparebank, or Savings Bank. The wings are not yet completed. In the centre is a large flight of steps. Admission on Tues. and Thurs. 1-3, Sun. 12-2, free; at other times on application to the ‘Vagtmester’, who lives at the back of the building (fee I/2'--'1 kr.). ‘ _ The GROUND FLooR contains the *Sculpture Gallery (Sculptur- Museet; Historical and Descriptive Catalogue, by Prof. Dietrich- son, 1 kr.). The Vestibule and the three adjoining Rooms contain the Casts of Ancient Sculptures, and the Staircase and Hall the Casts of Renaissance and Modern Sculptures, the whole forming the most complete collection of the kind in Scandinavia (also presented by the Sparebank, see above). —- The other rooms contain Original Works by Norwegian Masters, the finest Of which are: 328, 329. Fladager, Angel with font (model and sketch); Borch, 330. Je hthah’s Daughter, 331. The first lesson, 331a. The Sulamite Maiden, 1b. David, 332. Bust of Rector Vibe, one of the founders of the collection; 3333. Skeibrok, Rognar Lodbrok among the serpents. A wide double staircase ascends to the UPPER FLOOR, which contains the *National Gallery, a collection of paintings founded in 1387 and belonging to government. It contains about 300 ancient and modern works, chiefly by Norwegian masters but also including several good specimens of the Dutch school. The gallery was for- merly situated in the Apothekergade. We first enter the -— EAST ROOM. Danish School. 198. Jens Juel, Bernt Anker, a Norwegian patriot of the 18th cent.; 201. C. W. Eckersberg, Alms-giving at the con- vent; 202. N. Simonsen, Caravan overtaken by a simoom; 204, 205, Gro'n- land, Flowers and fruit; 206. Serensen, .O'resund, near Kronborg. —- Swe- dish School. 210. Kjo'rboc, Fox; Amalie Lindegren, 214. The widow and her child, 215. Grandfather’s lesson; 216. Fagerlin, Discomforts of bache- lor life; 218. E. Bergh, Birch wood. —- We now turn to the right and enter the -- National Gallery. CHRISTIANIA. 1. Route. 9 SOUTH Room (lighted from above). Norwegian School. J. C. Dahl (1788- 1857), 230. Laurvik, 231. The Hougfos; Th. Fearnley (1802-1842), 235. The Labrofos, 236. Grindelwald Glacier; 241. Baade (1808-1879), Norwegian coast-scene by moonlight; Tt'demand, *246. A solitary couple (family wor- ship in a cottage), *247. Cottage meeting of the Haugianer (a religious sect), 248. Administration of the Sacrament to a dying man; 250. F. Bee (b. 1820), Breakfast; Eckersberg (1822-1870), 253. Valle in the Saetersdal, 254. Mountain scenery; H. F. Gude (b. 1826), 258. Norwegian landscape, 259. Mountain view, *261. Christiania Fjord, 262. Before the rain, 263. Scene in North Wales; *267. H. A. Cappelen (1827-1852), Forest scene in Lower Thelemarken; 272. K. Bergslten (b. 1827), Portrait of the artist’s father; Morten Muller (b. 1828), 273. Scene on the Christiania Fjord, 274. Hardanger Fjord; 276. E. Bodom (1829-1879), Scene in Nordmarken; P. N. Arbo (b. 1831), “‘278. The Walkyries, 279. Asgaardsrejen (The Wild Huntsman); 281. A. Askevold (b. 1834), Mountain lake in summer; 283. V. Stoltenberg-Lerche (b. 1837), Tithe-day at the convent; 284. Karl Hansen, In captivity; "‘287. L. Munthe (b. 1841), Coast-scene in winter; No number, Munthe, Autumn evening; 289. E. Petersen, Portrait of a lady. —— We now traverse the VVEs'r Room, which contains a collection of water-colours and drawings, including some admirable examples by W. Schtrmer, and enter the —— NORTH Rooms (lighted from the roof), the first of which is devoted to the French, Italian. and German Schools. Italian Masters: ‘*1. Fine old copy of Leonardo da Vz'nct’s Mona Lisa, wrongly ascribed to Bernardino Luini; 5. Venetian Master, Massacre of the Innocents; 6. In the style of Caravaggio, Laughing head; 12. B. Strozzz', The tribute money; 13. Salva- tor Rosa, Landscape. -— German Masters: 134, 135. Barth. Beham, Por- traits; 141. J. J. Hartmann, John the Baptist in the wilderness; *145. Setbold, Portrait; Anton Grafl’, 155. Portrait of a lady, 157. Portrait of his son (the landscape painter of the same name); 173. 0. Wagner, Ponte Rotto; 175. K. Sohn, Tasso and the ladies of Ferrara; 176. C. F. Leasing, Scene on the Rhine; *177. R. Jordan, Family worship; 178. E. Geselschap, Christmas morning; 179. K. Hubner, Emigrants paying a farewell visit to the graves of their relatives; 180. A. Achenbach, Beach at Scheveningen; 182. A. W. Leu, Waterfall in Norway; 183. 0. Achenbach, Italian land- scape; 184. A. Seel, Cloisters. -— French Masters; 187. C’. de la Fosse, Achilles discovered by Ulysses among the daughters of Lycomedes. The other works are unimportant. The second North Room contains the works of the Flemish and Dutch Schools: *22. Pieter Claez'ssens, Portrait of himself; 24. Francken the El- der, The works of charity; 26. Abr. Bloernaert, St. Jerome; 28. Pourbus the Younger, Portrait; 30. R. Savery, Landscape with accessories; 32. Al. Adrtuenssen, Still-life; 34. Jae. Jordaens, Allegorical representations of the blessings of the peace of Westphalia; 35. Adr. Brouwer (?), Drunken peasant (signed); “36. Jan Fyt, Fight between dogs and wolves; 50,51. P. v. Bloemen, Cavalry skirmish, Cattle driven off by armed horsemen; 56. J. Horernans, Peasant meal; “‘59. Hellemans, Forest scene, with sheep by J. Verboekhoven; 63. Mierevelt, Portrait; 67. B. o. d. Ast, Fruit; *71. Corn. 1). Keulen (Ravesteyn?), Portrait; 72. E. v. d. Velde, Landscape; 73. J. v. Gog/en, Sea-piece; *81. Jan Davtdsz de Heem, Oysters and Rhine wine; 84. School of G. Dow, Schoolmaster; 86. B. o. d. Helst (‘2), Man with a glass of wine; 94. G. Lunde-rs, Family portraits; *104. M. Hondecoeter, Dog, cat, and game. Farther to the N. in the Universitetsgade, at the corner of the Pilestrtede, is the building of the Kunstforening, or Art Union, adorned with medallion portraits of celebrated artists, executed by Jacobsen. The ground-floor is occupied by the *Kunstindustrz'e- Museum (adm. daily 12-2, free), founded in 1877, and containing interesting specimens of Norwegian work of various kinds, of an- cient and modern date. The Chinese porcelain and lacquer-work also deserve mention. 10 Route 1. CHRISTIANIA. Palace. On an eminence at the W. extremity of the town, in the beauti- ful *Slotspark, stands the Palace, or Slot (Pl. A, 6), a large, plain edifice with a classical portico in the centre. It was erected in 1825-48 as a royal residence at the comparatively small cost of about 22,700l., while the grounds in which it stands cost about 10,700l. more, these sums having been voted by the Storthing for the purpose. The Interior is shown by the ‘Vagtmester’, or custo- dian, who lives on the sunk floor of the S. wing (fee 1-2 kr.). The principal Staircase is embellished with two reliefs in marble : the one to the right, by Stephen Sinding, represents Charles XIV. John laying the foundation-stone of the palace; that to the left, by M. Skeibrok, Oscar II. unveiling the statue of Charles John. The Festsal is a handsome and lofty hall, adorned with Corinthian co- lumns; the large Dining-room is decorated in the Pompeian style; the walls of the Throne Room, Coursal or drawing-room, and Au- dience Chamber are adorned with landscapes by Flinto. The Billiard Room contains two pictures by Tidemand, and another of his works adorns one of the Queen’s Apartments. The roof commands an admirable *View of the town and environs. —— In front of the palace rises an *Equestrian Statue of Charles XIV. John (Berna- dotte), by BrynjulfBergslien, inscribed with the king’s motto ‘The people’s love is my reward’. Christiania also possesses a number of educational, charitable, ' and other institutions, which may be visited if time permits. Among these may be mentioned the Kongelige Tegneskole, a School of Design, with which the National Gallery (p. 8) is connected. It was founded in 1818, and is supported by subsidies of 16,000 kr. from government and 4800 kr. from the municipality. Deichmann’s Library, Dronningens-Gade 11, founded in 1780, and consisting of 13,000 vols., is open to the public on week-days, except Thurs., 6-8 p.m. In the grounds of the Old Palace (P1. 26; D, 6), Lille Strand-Gade, is the Palaishavens Pavillon, containing a collection of Engravings and Drawings, 5000 in number, founded in 1877, and open to the public on Sundays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays, 12-2. There are also several very useful and meritorious scientific, literary, antiquarian, and philanthropic societies, a list of which will be found in Norges Statskalender. The most important of the numerous charitable institutions are the Rigshospital, Akersgaden, near the Trefoldigheds-Kirke, and Oslo Hospital, in Oslo, which was founded by Christian III. in 1538 and united in 1790 with a lunatic asylum (revenues, 39,000 kr.). The Dampkjekken has been already mentioned (p. 4). - Environs of Christiania. a. Oscarshall. A visit to Oscarshall on foot takes 2-21/2 hrs., including time to in- spect the picture-gallery. It may also be reached by carriage (one-horse OSCARSHALL. 1. Route. 1 1 5-6, two-horse 8 kr., there and back) by small steamboat from the Piper- vik (Pl. B, 7; hourly from 1.30 to .30) to Fredrilcsborg (in 1/4 hr., and 5 min. walk more, always keeping to the right), or by railway (fares 40 or 20 a.) from the Vestbanegaard to Bygde (in 8 min., and 20 min. walk more). —- Application for admission is made to the gardener, Clausen, who lives behind the chateau, to the left. Leaving Christiania by the Drammensoei (Pl. A, 7), which is bordered by numerous villas and gardens, we soon reach (3/4 Engl. M. from the University) the Skarpsno steamboat -pier. Here we cross by the ferry (in 6-8 min. ; fare 10 e.) to the wooded peninsula of Ladegaardse or Bygde, and then walk to the chateau in 7 min. more. The chateau of *Oscarshall, which is conspicuously situated on an eminence 80 ft. above the sea-level, surrounded by a pleasant park, was erected in the ‘English Gothic’ style by Nebelong for King Oscar in 1847-52, and adorned ‘with paintings by eminent Norwegian artists. It was sold by Charles XV. to the government, but is still set apart for the use of the reigning monarch. It deserves a visit not only for the collection of pictures it contains, but also for the beautiful view it commands (adm. see above; fee 1/2-1kr.). The DINING Room, on the ground-floor of the smaller separate build— ing is adorned with six imposing Norwegian landscapes by J. Frich (d. 1858), the finest being the Ravnejuv, the Romsdalshorn, and the Norangs- fjord, above which are ten celebrated works by A. Tidemand (d. 1876), re- presenting ‘Norsk Bondeliv’, or the different periods of Norwegian peasant life. The DRAWING Home, on the ground-floor of the principal building, with its oak panelling, is embellished with statues of Harald Haarfagre, Olaf Tryggvason, St. Olaf, and Sverre, in zinc, by Michelsen. A room on the 1st floor contains nine basreliefs from Frithjofs Saga, in marble, by Borch, and five fine landscapes by Gude (b. 1825). Several rooms on the 2nd floor contain works by Swedish and Nor- wegian artists, wood-carvings, basket-work, etc. We now ascend by a winding staircase of 28 steps to the flat roof of the chateau, beyond which 43 steps more lead us to the summit of the tower, where we enjoy a charming *VIEW of Christiania, its fjord, and environs. Refreshments at the Sceterhytte on the Dronningbjerg, between Oscarshall and the Bygdo. A monument has been erected here to Count Wedel-Jarlsberg, an ardent advocate of the union with Swe- den in 1814. b. Hovede. About 1 Engl. M. to the S. of Akershus lies the Hovede, an island now belonging to the fortress (admission, see p. 5 ; boat there and back 1—11/2 kr.), on which are situated the ruins of a Cistercian Monastery, founded by monks from Lincoln in 1147. In 1532, after the Reformed faith had been embraced by Denmark, Mogens Gyldenstjerne, the Danish commandant of Akershus, ordered the monastery to be plundered and destroyed. In 1846-47 the ruins were cleared by the Norwegian Antiquarian Society. 0. The Ekeberg. This excursion may be made by TRAMWAY from the Stortorv to Oslo (comp. Pl. 0, D, E, 6, 5), by STEAMER from the Jernbanebrygge (Pl. D, E, 7) to Kongshavn or Ormsund, or by RAILWAY from the principal sta~ tion to Boekkelaget (p. 273). -— Comp. the marginal map on the Plan of Christiania. 12 Route 1. FROGNERSETER. Environs The Ekeberg, a wooded hill 400 ft. in height, to the S. of Oslo, commands several beautiful views, but the best points are not easily found. One of the finest is a rocky knoll, immediately to the left of the Liabro road, which like the railway, skirts the fjord, and 1 Engl. M. to the S. of the Oslo tramway terminus. Near this point is the steamboat-station Kongshaon, not far from which is an in- teresting ‘giant’s caldron’ or cave, named Kong Kristian Il.’s Hut. Another good point is reached thus : beyond the tramway terminus follow the main road for 5 min., passing the church on the right and the pretty churchyard on the left, and after a few hundred paces ascend the stony old road to the right. Where the old and new roads unite at the top of the hill (‘20 min. from Oslo), we turn to the right, pass the farm of Ekebe'rg, and follow a field-road to the (7 min.) wood on the'N.W. slope of the Ekeberg. A fine view of the town and harbour is obtained from the N. end of the hill (a little to the right, beyond the fence). We may now return by the same route, or (pleasanter) follow the top of the hill towards the S. to the farm Jomf'rub'raaten, then descend to the right, and return by the above-mentioned Liabro road. d. The Frognerswte'r. This excursion, if made on foot, takes 5-6 hrs. CARRIAGE (33% hrs.) with one horse (for 1-2 pers) 10 kr. , with two horses (3-4 pers.) 14 kr., charges lower in the forenoon. The best plan for a single visitor is to hire a Skyds or carriole from Iversen, Grubbegade 3 (see p. 1). The route leads past the N. side of the Palace Grounds and tra- verses the suburb of Hcegdehougen, beyond which we observe the Vestre Alters Ki'rlce on an eminence to the right. About 1 Engl. M. from the Stor-Torv, we next observe the Gaustad Lunatic Asylum (Sindssyge-Asyl), erected by Schirmer and v. Hanno in 1854, which accommodates upwards of 300 patients. We now ascend by a narrow carriage-road, through wood, to the *Frognersaeter (1400 ft.), the rustic summer residence of Consul Heftye, f) Engl. M. to the N.W. of Christiania, with a balcony commanding a delightful view of Christiania, its fjord, and environs. (Coffee, milk, etc., at the ad- joining cottage.)—— While the horses are resting, travellers usually ascend on foot to the (20 min.) Tryvandsheide (1800 ft.), a wooden scaffolding on the summit of which commands a still more exten— sive view, including in clear weather some of the snowclad moun- tains of Thelemarken (the Gausta, p. ‘23) to the W., and of Hall- ingdal (Norefjeld, p. 79) to the N.W. e. Other Excursions. If time permits, pleasant drives may also be taken to the Ud- sigttaarrn on the Solha'ug, on the Bogstad road (1/4 hr. from the Stor-Torv, or on foot 1/2 hr.); to the Ma'ridalsoand, a small lake which supplies Christiania with water, 5 Engl. M. to the N., with the ruined Marikirke at the N. end; to Grefsens-Bad, a small of Christiania. HUNEFOS. 1. Route. 13 water-cure establishment, prettily situated about 21/2 Engl. M. to the N.E. (omnibus, see p. 1); and to Sarabraaten, a summer resi- dence of Consul Heftye, about 7 Engl. M. to the E. (4 M. from stat. Bryn on the Kongsvinger line; p. 113). LONGER ExouRsroNs. Travellers whose visit to Norway is limited to a few days only should endeavour to take one or other of the following short tours before leaving the country. (1) To Gjevz'k and Odnws, and back by the Randsfjord, Henefos, and Krogklev, in 3-4 days. —- This round may be hurriedly accomplished in 2 days: On the lst Day by the morning train from Christiania to Ez'dsvold; by steamboat to Gjevik; drive in the evening to Odnaes (39 Kil. or 24 Engl. M.) in 41/2 hrs., on the 2nd Day by steamer from Odnoes to Randsfiord; thence by train, passing Henefos, to Christiania. —— It is, however, preferable to drive from H8nef0s to (18 Kil.) Sundvolden, visit Krogkleven, drive to (23 Kil.) Sandm'ken, and return thence by train to Christiania. —— Or the traveller may prefer to make an excursion from Christiania to Sundvolden and Honefos. as above, and to return by rail- way, which may be easily done in two days. Comp. RR. 2, 13b, 15 (2) To the Rjukanfos via Kongsberg, and back, 4-5 days (RR. 2,3). — It is possible to accomplish this very interesting excursion in 31/2 days: On the 1st Day by early train from Christiania to Kongsbe-rg; drive to Tinoset, either via Lysthus in the Hitterdal, or via Bolkesje. in 9-10 hrs., 2nd Day, by steamboat on Mon., Thurs., or Sat. to Strand; drive to Vaar in 3 hrs., visit the Rjukanfos on foot in 11/;; hr. (there and back), and return to Strand in 21/2 hrs. more; 3rd Day, by steamer on Sun., Tues., or Wed. to Tinoset, and drive thence back to Kongsberg in 9-10 hrs.; next morn- ing take the train for Christiania. (3) To Fredrc'ksstad, the Sarpsfos, and Fredm'kshald, and back, in 2-3 days (R. 33); or there and back by railway in 1% day. — A steamer leaves Christiania every morning for E'edr'iksstad and F/redrikshald, and there are four weekly to Fredriksstad, where they unload, and Sarpsborg on the Glommen, 9 Engl. M. farther (arr. in the evening). Having slept at Sarpsborg, the traveller may next day inspect the fall of the Glommen, take the train to Fredrikshald, and return thence to Christiania on the following day by steamboat in 7-9 hours. —— Or the excursion may be made in two days: (1) By train from Christiania to Sarpsborg, visit the fall the same day; (2) By steamer (4 times a week) from Sarpsborg to Fredriksstad and Christiania. —— By train the whole way there and back (ll/2 day), not recommended. Travellers arriving at Christiania, or leaving it, by water will find a description of the beautiful fjord in RR. 5, 34. 2. From Christiania to the Randsfjord by Drammen and Hougsund. 142 Kil. (88 Eng. M.). RAILWAY (‘ Vestbane’) in 61/4 hrs. (fares 7 kr. 25, 4 kr. 20 a), two trains daily; to Drammen in 2-21/2 hrs. (fares 2 kr. 40. 1 kr. 6016.), four trains daily. The rails on this narrow-gauge line are only 31/2 ft. apart. The carriages are of two classes only, corresponding to the second and third in most other countries. —— Finest views to the left. The railway traverses beautiful scenery, particularly between Reken and Drammen and between Hougsund and Honefos. The train passes a number of pleasant country-houses, villages, and farms, interspersed with manufactories. To the left lies the beautiful Fjord of Christiania, while to the right is the peninsula of Bygde, with the chateau of Oscarshall (p. 11) and numerous villas. 14 Route 2. SANDVIKEN. From Christiania 3 Kil. Bygde, on the bay of Frognerkilen, ‘is the station for Bygdo and Oscarshall (20 min.; see p. 11). Charming scenery. About 11/2 Engl. M. distant is the Kastelbaltke, where snow-shoe races (‘Skirend’; ‘Skier’, snow-shoes) take place in winter. ——- 6 Kil. Lysaker, at the mouth of the Se'rkedalsel'v, descending from the Bogstad- Vand, to which a beautiful route leads to the N. From the E. side of the lake, a steep path ascends to the Frognei'saeter (P- 121 . . . . . To the right rise the imposing Aaser, a porphyry range of hills. The Silurian strata are here intersected by dykes of greenstone, the most interesting of which is seen near (10 Kil.) Hevik, where it forms a lofty wall, 2 ft. in thickness, in the midst of the disin- tegrated slate. Farther on the train skirts the Enge'r- Vand, also to the right, and reaches —— 14 Kil. Sandviken, a beautifully situated village, the best starting-point for a visit to the Krogklev (see below; skyds-station near the station). To the N. rises the Kolsaas (1212 ft.), command- ing a view similar to that from the Frognersaeter (guide advisable). The annual horse and boat races of the ‘Norske Traverselskab’ take place in June at Sloebende, close to Sandviken. *EXCURSION T0 KROGLEVEN. The road, at first uninteresting, gradually ascends, passing through the Krogslcog, to the first station (18 Kil., pay for 22 Kil., but not returning), + Humledal, situated high above the pictur- esque Holsfjord, an arm of the Tyr‘iflo'rd (230 ft.)-, striking view just be- low the station. We then descend by the beautiful ‘Svangstrands-Vez" (p. 15) to the fjord, and follow its bank to the N. to (81/2 Kil.) Sund- volden (*Inn, with 17 rooms; not now a posting station, but horses pro- curable; the landlord can also send for carriages to Vik), whence we ascend in 11/2 hr. to *Krogkleven, a rocky height (Klev, ‘cIifi"’), 1000 ft. above the inn, on the old road to Christiania (ascent through a romantic gorge, on foot or on horseback; horse 2 kr. 80 9.). We first come to the (1 hr.) Klevstue (1245 ft.), a poor inn, 5min. below which, to the N.W., is Dronningens Uds/igt (the Queen’s View). Higher up (follow the track to the W., keeping to the right) is the (20 min.) *Kongens Udsigt (the King’s View; 14 5 ft. above the sea, 1240 ft. above the fjord), the finer point of the two. The prospect from this point in clear weather is superb, embracing the Tyrifjord with its islands, the district of Ringerike, the Jonsknut near Kongsberg (p. 21), the Norefjeld to the N.W., and the Gausta (p. 23) and other snow-mountains to the W. in the distance. Even the Hallingskarv (p. 82) in the Upper Hallingdal is said to be visible in clear weather. The road from Sundvolden to Hgnefos crosses the Krogsund, which connects the Tyrifjord with the Steensfjord. The numerous islands in the latter are said to be stones once thrown by a giantess of the Gyrihaug (p. 18) for the purpose of destroying the church of Steen (see below), which missiles, however, including even one of her own legs, all fell short of their aim and fell into the lake. Like the battle of the giants against Odin and Thor in the Edda, this legend is syinbolical of the fruitless wrath of the powers of nature against the advance of human culture. The next station, 16 Kil. from Humledal and 3 Kil. from Sundvolden, is 1- Vi]: (travellers in the reverse direction may drive on to Sundvolden without change of horses), about 1/4 hr. beyond which, to the right, is the ruined church of Stem, with the farm of the same name. After an- other 1/4 hr. the road passes No-rderhovs Kirlce, in which Anna Kolbjorns- datter is interred. She was the wife of the pastor of the place, and in 1716, while her husband was ill, succeeded by a stratagem in betraying to Drammen. ASKER. 2. Route. 15 600 of the Swedish invaders into the hands of her countrymen. A picture shown at the parsonage represents the heroine obtaining permission to set fire to a heap of wood for the pretended purpose of warming the Swedish soldiers, but in reality to attract the Norwegian troops who were en- camped at the neighbouring village of Stem. Meanwhile she plied the invaders so liberally with spirits that they fell an easy prey to the Norsemen. -— 11 Kil. Henefos, see p. 18. The train now ascends through cuttings in the rock and two short tunnels to (15 Kil.) Slwbende and (20 Kil.) Hvalstad, whence the picturesque Skogumsaas (1142 ft.) to the W. may be ascended. It then crosses a wooden viaduct, 90 ft. high, and reaches — 23 Kil. Asker, from which the * Vardekolle (1132 ft.), a massive hill of granite, serving to mariners as a landmark, may be ascended for the sake of the admirable view it commands. In former times, on the breaking out of a war, beacon-fires were lighted on this bill to summon the people to arms. ‘The hill commands an incomparable and most extensive view. The spectator surveys the whole of Christiania, with the surrounding country- houses, hills, and mountains; then all the valleys of Drammen; the re- gion of Kongsberg, Holmestrand, Drebak, and the Christiania Fjord. Standing in the centre of this mountainous and so curiously furrowed district, we survey at a glance the Whole of it, spread out like a relief- map’. L. 12. Buck, ‘Norwegen’. The train skirts the foot of the Vardekolle and passes the small lakes Bondivand (the property of an English ice-exporting com- pany) and Gjellumcand. At the S. end of the latter is (28 Kil.) Heggedal, beyond which we pass the base of the barren Brejmaas. Beyond (34 Kil.) Relcen (440 ft.) the train turns abruptly to the W., traversing an uninteresting region and passing through numer- ous cuttings; but immediately beyond a tunnel, 240 yds. long, which penetrates the hilly barrier, a most picturesque and imposing *Vrnw, of the Drammens-Fjord, the town of Drammen . and the fertile valley of the Lier is suddenly disclosed to the left, rivalling the famous views from Chexbres above Vevey or from Optschina above Trieste. The road from Roken to Drammen descends at once to the fjord, while the railway passes through another tunnel and de- scribes a long curve towards the N., descending gradually to the valley of Lier and the (45 Kil.) station of that name. From Lier a pleasant route leads to the N., on the E. side of the valley, past the Engerifjeld, to (8 Kil.) +Kitilsrud at the S. end of the Hols- fjord, the S. branch of the Tyrtflord (p. 14). The road, now called the *Svangslrands-Ve-i, and famed for its picturesqueness, next ascends the Burderaas and skirts the Holsfjord, at a giddy height above it, to (3 kil.) Huntledal (p. 14). The country between Enger, near the Holsfjord, and Humledal is entirely unpeopled. At Lier the train turns towards the S. , traversing a fertile tract, and next stops at (51 Kil.) Bragere, the E. end of Drammen (Bragernms); it then crosses the Drammenselv, and the island of Mellcrholm or ‘Holmen’ with its timber-yards, to the Tangen and Stremse quarters, on the S. bank of the river, and reaches the principal station of (53 Kil.) Drammen, situated at the W. end of Stremse, close to the bridge across the Drammenselv. 16 Route'Q. DRAMMEN. From Christiania Drammen. —— In Sta-0mm.- *CENTRAL HOTEL, opposite the station, en- trance in a side-street, with restaurant, D. 2, S. 11/2 kr.; BRITANNIA, in the Fremgade, leading E. to Tangen. — In Brage'r'nws: *HoTEL KONG CARL, in the Stor-Gade, near the market-place. CAB with one horse, for 1 person 40 a. per drive, with two horses for 2 persons 60 g. -— OMNiBUs from Bragernaes-Torv to Tangen. Sommerfryd-Badeanstalt, on the E. side of Bragernaes, at the end of Erik-Bcrresens-Gaden, near the fire-engine station. British Vice-Consul, Mr. F. W. Melhuus. Steamboats to Holmestrand, Horten, and Moss daily; to Tansberg and Sandefjord once weekly; to Liverpool once monthly. Railway (Grevskabane) to Holmestrand, Tansberg, Laurvik, Porsgrund, and Skien.v see pp. 31-3 . Drammen, with 18,850 inhab., situated on both banks of the Drammenselv, consists of Bragemavs on the N. bank, containing about 11,000 inhab. , Stwmse on the S. side, and Tangen to the S.E., which originally formed three distinct communities. Bra- gernaes, the principal quarter, has been rebuilt since its almost entire destruction by fire in 1860 and a great part of Stromso and Tangen since a fire in 1870. The situation of Drammen on the estuary of the river, between hills of considerable height, is pictur- esque, and not without pretensions to grandeur. The pretty fjord extends down to Holmestrand (p. 31). The trade of the place is very considerable, consisting chiefly in the export of timber from the forests of Hadeland, Valders, the Hallingdal, and part of the Numedal (annual value over 5,000,000 kr.), and of a quantity of zinc and nickel from Skouger and Ringerike. The commercial fleet of Drammen, numbering more than 300 vessels, is one of the largest in Norway, vying in importance with those of Christiania and Arendal, and having an aggregate burden of 72,000 tons. Vessels of large tonnage can load and discharge at the stone quays of Bragernaas. The town also possesses a number of saw-mills, iron-works, and manufactories. The railway-station lies at the S. end of a long Timber Bridge, crossing the Drammenselv and connecting Stromsc and Bragernaes. The bridge affords a pleasant promenade in hot weather, on account of the cool breezes always blowing up or down the valley. Charm- ing prospect in every direction; the Brandposten (p. 17), with its two flagstafis, is conspicuous on the hill-side to the right. The bridge leads from the station to the Bragemazs-To'rv, the chief market—place, in which, to the right, are the Exchange (with the Post and Telegraph Offices, entrance in the Storgade, to the right), and facing us the Raadhus and Byret (court-house), with the inscription Ret og Sandhed (‘justice and truth’). Ascending hence in a straight direction, between the two small towers of the Kirkegade, we soon reach the conspicuous BRAGERNES CHURCH, a handsome Gothic brick edifice by Nordgren, built after theflre of 1866, and consecrated in 1871. The choir is at the N. end, the principal entrance in the S. tower. The interior is embellished with an *Altar-piece by Tidemand (d. 1876), representing the Re- to the Randsfjord. HOUGSUND. 2. Route. 17 surrection, and an *Angel over the font by Borch. (The ‘Klokker’, or sacristan, lives in the one-storied white wooden house opposite the sacristy, to the left; fee 1/2-1 kr.) Following the road on the hill-side above Bragernaes Church, which ascends slightly to the right, or proceeding by the Cappelens- Gade below the church to the E. as far as Erik Berresen’s Gade, and then ascending to the left, we reach after 12-15 min. the *BRANDPOSTEN, one of the finest points of view near Drammen, affording an extensive prospect of Tangen, Stremse, and Bragernaes, of ‘Holmen’ (p. 15), the valley of the Drammenselv, and the fjord. The veranda of the watchman’s house is always accessible. Can- nons are fired here whenever a fire is observed in the town. The road proceeds hence, turning to the left after 10 min., to the (35-40 min.) Klophjovrn (650 ft.), a sequestered lake in the midst of wood, whence the town derives its water-supply. To the left are pleasant grounds, and on the right is a small house where refreshments are sold. From the latter a footpath ascends to the right in 5 min. to Prins Oscars Udsigt, a rocky summit near an- other small lake, which affords a good survey of the Lierdal and the fjord. The mountains to the left are the Vardeaas and the Skogumsaas. (From the small house above mentioned the traveller may ascend to the Varde, a much higher point, commanding a very extensive view.) —- In returning avoid the very steep and stony short-cuts. Another good point of view is the hill of *Bragernaasaas, easily reached in 35-40 min. by a new zigzag road, provided with numer- ous benches, which ascends above the churchyard to the W. of the Bragernaes Church. The view embraces the town and fjord, and the valley up to Hougsund and Kongsberg. From the top the tra- ‘veller may proceed (no path) to the Klopkjaarn and return by the Brandposten (see above). A longer excursion may be taken through the Lierdal by the old Christiania road to the Studenternes Udstgt on the Bejstad-Aa-s, near which is the Gaard Gjellebcek with a wood-girt lake and a fine echo. The road formerly lay farther to the N., crossing the Paradisbakker (about 900 ft.), the marble quarries of which supplied the materials for the marble church at Copenhagen. The RAILWAY 'ro HoUGsUNn (Henefos, Kongsberg) ascends the broad valley of the Drammenselv to (55 Kil.) Gulskogen, (64 Kil.) Mjendalen, and — ' 70 Kil. Hougsund (*Rail.‘ Restaurant, ‘varm Frokost’ with beer 1 kr.), the junction of the Randsfjord and Kongsberg lines. To the W. rises the Jonsknut (2952 ft.; p. 20). In the vicinity is the Hetlefos, a fall of the Drammenselv, where boxes are placed for the purpose of catching the salmon as they ascend the fall. -— Passengers for Kongsberg change carriages here (see p. 19). The Randsfjord train continues to ascend the Drammenselv, which forms a number of picturesque waterfalls and cataracts, and BAEDEKER-‘s Norway and Sweden. 2nd ‘Edit. 2 18 Route 2. I HQNEFOS. we enjoy a succession of beautiful views. The river is crossed several times. 76 Kil. Burud. At (80 Kil.) Skotselven the train crosses the Drammenselv, which here forms the Deviksfos, and next stops at (87 Kil.) Aamot, on the left bank of the river. On the opposite bank are seen the waterfall of the Simoa, a tributary of the Drammenselv, and the Nylcirke. The scenery at this point is remarkably fine. A little farther on is the influx of the Sna- rumselv, the river descending from Lake Krederen and the Halling- dal. Recrossing to the right bank, the train next stops at (91 Kil.) Gjethus, near which is the Gm'vfos. A charming walk may be made hence to the Hi-rsdal with the St. Olafsgryder, large giants’ caul— .drons. 96 Kil. Vikersund, the junction of a branch—line to Lake Kre- deren (p. 79), situated at the point where the Drammenselv issues from the Tyrifjord. A bridge crosses the river here to the church of Heggen, from which a road leads along the S. bank of the Tyrifjord to the Holsfjord, the S.E. arm of the lake (p. 15). A pleasant drive may be taken from Vikersund (carriages at the station. or at the neighbouring posting-station Krona) to (4 Kil.) St. Olafs-Bad at Modum, now the most frequented Watering-place in Norway, with a chalybeate spring, mud-baths, inhaling apparatus, and other appliances. The beautiful forests in the environs, the picturesque views of Ringerike and the Tyrifjord, and the Kaggefos and other falls of the Snarumselv are among the chief attractions of the place. This district is moreover the scene of many traditions connected with St. Olaf. About 5 Kil. to the W. are the Cobalt Mines of Mod'um, worked by a German company. Beyond Vikersund the train skirts the W. bank of the Tyri- fjord, of which it affords beautiful views to the right. The wooded hills on the opposite bank are the Krogskog (with the Krogklev, p. 14) and the Gyrihaug (2216 ft.; Gyw or Gygr, ‘giantess’). Farther on the steep red-sandstone road ascending from Sundvolden to Krogkleven is distinguishable. 105 Kil. Nakkerud. 111 Kil. Skjaerdalen. 119 Kil. Ask. The train now quits the Tyrifjord. 124 Kil. Henefos (*Glatved’s Hotel, with a garden, pleasantly situated in the N. part of the town; Jembane-Hotel, near the station; Skydsstation, in the S. part of the town, near the church), a small town with 1130 inhab., ravaged by a serious conflagration in 1878, lies at the confluence of the Bagna or Aadalselv, which descends from Lake Spirillen, and the Randselv, coming from the Randsfjord. The river formed by them is called the Storelv, which empties itself into the Tyrifjord, whence it afterwards emerges under the name of Drammenselv (p. 16). The Baegna-Elv, just be- fore its junction with the Randselv, forms two waterfalls, of which that to the N. is rather a huge cataract, and which are together known as the *Henefos. Though of no great height, these falls are quite worth seeing (at least for travellers who have not yet visited the large falls in Thelemarken or Hardanger), especially during the ‘Flomtid’ or ‘Flaumtid’ (flood time) in May and June, when the volume of water is very imposing. The bridges which cross the KONGSBERG. 3. Route. 19 rivers afford a fine view of the falls and the environs. By passing under the bridges it is possible to reach a point nearer the seeth- ing waters. As is so often the case in Norway, a number of flour- mills and saw-mills are congregated here for the sake of the mo- tive power afforded by the falls. A channel on the left bank of the N. fall conveys the timber to the mills with immense velocity. A road on the left bank of the Aadalselv leads in 1 hr. to the Hofsfos, another fine fall, close to the railway to Heen. From H5nefos to (18 Kil.) Sundvolden, from which we ascend Krog- kleven, see p. 14; carrioles may be ordered at the hotel. 131 Kil. Heen. —- To Lake Spirillen, see pp. 84, 85. Turning suddenly to the E., the train skirts the Heensbreud and the Askelihoug (1409 ft.), traverses a wooded district thinly peopled, and finally stops at ~— 142 Kil. (88 Engl. Randsfjord Station (*Inn), see p. 88. 3. From (Christiania) Hougsund to Kongsberg and the Rjukanfos. Comp. the Map. From Hougsund to Kongsberg, 28 Kil. (17 Eng. M.), RAILWAY, in 11/2 hr. (fares 2kr. 65, 1kr. 15 5.). From Kongsberg to Tinoset, 65 Kil. (40 Eng. M.), by CARRIAGE in 10 hrs., including stoppages. From Tinoset to Strand, 25 Kil. (151/2 Eng. M.) STEAMBOAT in 23/4 hrs. (2 kr.), in spring and autumn thrice weekly (Mon. afternoon, Thurs. and Sat. forenoons), in summer four times weekly (Mon, Thurs., and Sat. forenoons, Tues. afternoon). From Strand to Rjukanfos, 10 Kil. (6 Eng. M.), DRIVE of 23/4 hrs. and WALK of 1/2 hr. . From Christiania to Hougsund, see pp. 13-17. The railway to Kongsberg (finest views on the left) next stops at — 5Kil. Vestfossen, with several manufactories, on the beautiful Ekersje or Fiskumvand, bounded by lofty mountains on the E. side (usually traversed by a steamboat twice weekly to Eidsfos). 11Kil. Darbo also lies on this lake. 15 Kil. Krekling, where the slate-formation predominates. Farther on we obtain a fine view of the mountains towards the S. 22 Kil. Skollenborg, where sand- stone makes its appearance, and the country becomes sterile. The Labrofos (p. 20) lies about 1 Engl. M. to the S. of Skollenborg. The train approaches the Laagen, which descends from the Nume- dal and forms a waterfall, and stops at -— 28 Kil. Kongsberg. ~— Hotels. VICTORIA, at some distance from the station, in the W. part of the town, on the right bank, R. & L. 2, A. 1/2 kr., B. 80 5.; BRITANNIA, on the left bank, near the station. Both hotels are often crowded in summer. Carriages to Tinoset: Carriole for 1 pers. 16, there and back 28 kr.; gig for 2 pers. 24 or 42 kr., carriage with 2 horses for 2 pers. 32 or 56 kr., for 3 pers. 36 or 63 kr. Those who detain the carriage in Tinoset for more than one night pay 4 kr. extra per horse for each day. Kongsberg (490 ft.), an uninviting, but not unplcturesque town, situated on the Laagen or Laugen, in the S. part of the Numedal (p. 24), contains 4311 inhab. (formerly twice as 2* 20 Route 3. KONGSBERG. From Hougsund many), who are almost all supported by the neighbouring silver- mines. Most of the houses are timber-built, but the large Church and the Raadhus are substantial stone edifices. The former was erected in the middle of last century, when the population of the town was about double the present number. The town owes its origin to the Silver Mines in the vicinity, which are said to have been discovered by goat—herds, and was founded in 1624 in the reign of Christian IV. In the town itself are situated the Smeltehytte, or smelting-works, where specimens of the ore may be purchased, the Mynt (mint), and a government Vaabenfabrilc (weapon-factory), the last of which is near the Hammerfos. The rapid Laagen is crossed by two bridges. The SILVER MINES or KONGSBERG, the property of the government, now yielding an annual profit of about 22,000l., were discovered early in the 17th cent. and have been worked with varying success. Of more than a hundred mines opened since the first discovery of the ore, four only are now of any importance. The principal of these is Kongens-Grube, about 6Kil. to the S.W.W. of the town, which is nearly 2000 ft. in depth, and a- little to the N. of this mine are the ‘Gottes-Hiilfe‘, the Armen- Grube, and the ‘Haus-Sachsen‘ mines. Besides the perpendicular shafts descending to these mines, there are two level shafts or edits, the Fredriks-Stollen and the Christians-Slouch, entering them from the hill-side, the latter being 300 ft. below the other and connecting all the mines, the aggregate length of which is upwards of 5 Kil. -- Permission to visit the mines is obtained at the offices in the market-place, but the expedition is a laborious one, which hardly repays the fatigue (guide 2 kr.). The veins of native silver which the mines contain are mingled with sulphuret of silver and copper pyrites, occurring generally in layers of calcareous spar. Beautiful argen- tiferous crystals are also frequently found. The finest yet discovered is now in the University Museum of Natural History at Copenhagen. The’ Jonsknut (2952 ft.), which rises a short distance beyond the Gottes- Hiilfe and Haus-Sachsen mines, commands an admirable view of the Gausta and other mountains of Thelemarken to the W. Near the Jonsknut rises the Skrimsfleld (2946 ft.), about 15-20 Kil. to the S. of the town, and also commanding a beautiful view. About 34 Kil. to the S.E. of the town the Laagen forms a very fine waterfall called the Labrofos, 140 ft. in height, which is well worthy of a visit. — Another fall of the same river of equal grandeur is the Hot‘- tingfos, 20 Kil. from Kongsberg, on the Laurvik road. FROM KONGSBERG 'ro TINOSET there are two routes, the shorter and more picturesque but rougher road via Bolkesje, and the high road via Hitterdal. The former route is generally preferred in going , the latter in returning. (An account of the ‘Rodestolper’ passed en route will be found at p. 117; numerous snow-ploughs.) a. VIA BoLKEsJe. We first follow the ‘road ascending the Numedal on the right bank of the Laagen for 4 Kil. (see p. 24), and then turn to the left into the Jondal and ascend through the pines on the right bank of the Jondals—Elv. Farther on we cross to the left bank. After about 4 hrs. (including a short halt for rest) we reach the culminating point of the route (1825 ft.), where a magnificent view of the mountains of Thelemarken is suddenly unfolded. The most conspicuous heights are the Lifield (p. 27) and the Gausta (p. 23), which appears from this point in the form of a v in. a“ 11500.000 ° ' 3* .‘eégwJsomm 2 " ° " ‘.“i: um”. “ * ° 8 ' ' ’ , ‘ ‘ 1*? '- .1/ is" I I‘ g " ‘I in | a \ w . ' y w ' ‘ah’ \a'mh d ‘_ - v .. » ‘ v t k‘ p, it,‘ .\“L\\\/rflw ‘‘ ‘ a , . ' ‘ . ' ‘ ~ M!‘ s. GeographAnsmlt von 7 A i l V V tlfisu-rvmd) ‘to the Rjukanfos. HITTERDAL. 3. Route. 21 blunted cone. A little before Bolkesje, a softer charm is added to the landscape by the presence of two lakes in the foreground, the Bolkesjo (1030 ft.) and the greater Folsje (710 ft.). 34 Kil. (from Kongsberg) Bolkesja (1285 ft.), a cottage, in which beer, simple refreshments, and clean but rustic beds may be obtained. The upper room contains a photograph commemorating the visit of the Crown Prince of Germany in 1873. Various quaint proverbs are carved on the walls. The fine ‘Stabbur’, or store- house, should be noticed. Beyond Bolkesje the road leads through wood, high up on the N.W. bank of the Folsje, commanding several views of the Blei- field (3900 ft.) to the right. At the W. end of the lake lie the houses of Vile, about 11/4 hr.’s drive from Bolkesjo. The Tin-Eh; soon comes into view on the left; the road descends and crosses the stream near the church of Grandsherred. About 5 min. later (11/4 hr.’s drive from Vik) we reach the high-road described be- low, on which a drive of 35 min. brings us to Tinoset. b. VIA HITTERDAL. The road at first runs towards the S., but after 2 Kil. turns to the W. into the valley of the Kobberberg-Elv. To the right rises the Jonsknut (p. 20). The road then gradually ascends the wooded Medheia and after 2-21/2 hours reaches Jem- gruben (tolerable inn ; 1350 ft.), where the horses are usually rested for an hour. Beyond Jerngruben the road continues to ascend for some distance, and then traverses the plateau (1450 ft.) in numerous undulations. On emerging from the forest it begins to descend into the Hitterdal, commanding a beautiful view; in front the mountains of Thelemarken, the Himingen , and the Hales/field ,_ to the left the Hitterdalsvand. We then pass the gaards of Heibe, _ Tinne, and Hoaaten, near the last of which a direct road diverges to the right to the (10 min.) Tinfos (see below). 28 Kil. (pay for 36) *Hotel Furuheim, kept by J. G. Thomassen (R. 2 kr., D. 2 kr. 60, B. 80 0.). The drive from Kongsberg to Furuheim takes 41/2 hrs., that in the reverse direction at least 5.1/2 hrs. The horses are rested here 2 hrs., during which the tra- veller should dine. The skyds-station is at Notodden, near the quay of the steamers plying on the. Hitterdalsvand (p. 34). The road now crosses the Tin-Elo by a bridge which affords a view of the *Tinfos, a beautiful waterfall formed by the river here. Near the water-fall, which we may approach more closely, is a wood cutting and polishing mill (Traasliberi); The road, which is ‘here almost level, then passes the inns of Juel and Jomfru Holst and the old skyds-station of Lysthus. About 6 Kil. from Notodden, to the right, lies the —— *Hittordals Kirke , a grotesque - looking timber-built church, resembling the' ancient church of Borgund (p. 94), and one of the greatest architectural curiosities of Norway. The style of archi- tecture andgeneral character of the ornamentation of the singular 22 Route 3. TIN OSET. From Hougsund Norwegian ‘stavekirker’ relegate them to the 12th cent., the capi- tals of the pillars and the mouldings almost exactly corresponding, so far as the difference of material allows, to the details of Anglo- Norman architecture at the same period (Fergusson). They are con- structed, like block-houses, of logs laid horizontally above each other and kept in position by strong corner-posts. The walls are sur- mounted by a lofty roof, the artistic construction of which was ori- ginally left open to view in the interior, though now, as in this case, often concealed by the interposition of a plain ceiling. The quadran- gular nave is adjoined by a semicircular choir. Round the exterior of the building runs a low arcade (Lop), probably added as a pro- tection against snow and cold; the lower part is closed, while the upper part is open and supported by small columns. Above the roof of this arcade appear the windows of the aisles, over which rises the nave, surmounted by a square tower with a slender spire. The windows of the aisle are an innovation, the original design having only small air-holes in their place. The capitals of the pillars, the doors and door-frames, and other suitable parts of the edifice are embellished with elaborate and fantastic carvings, re- presenting entwined dragons, intermixed with foliage and figures. The projections from the ridges of the roof and gables are also carved in grotesque forms. The church of Hitterdal has been re- cently restored. The old episcopal chair at the back of the altar should be noticed. The key (Neglen) is obtained in the parsonage, opposite the entrance to the church. The road from Hitterdal to Tinoset is tolerably level the whole way. The gaards of Bamle and Kaasa are passed. To the left the Himingen and the Hatksfjeld long remain conspicuous. To the right rises the Kjeivingfjeld (2265 ft.), which our road skirts towards the N., while the road to Hjaerdal (p. 26) diverges to the left. We now ascend the course of the .Orvaelta, a small river which has forced its way through huge masses of debris, overgrown with pines and firs. The road crosses the river several times. At the ‘Plads’ Baklten, 23 Kil. from Notodden, the horses are rested. The road from Grandsherred and Bolkesje (p. 21) joins ours on the right, 5 Kil. farther on. After 6 Kil. more we reach —— 34 Kil. yTinoset (Kaali’s Inn, close to the steamboat-pier, often full, R. 1 kr. 60, S. 1 kr. 20 0.), a group of scattered houses at the S. end of the Tinsjo, a small lake, about 22 Engl. M. long and 1-11/2 M. in width, enclosed by barren and precipitous mountains. A small screw-steamboat plies on the lake 3-4 times a week (see p. 19) between Tinoset and Sigurdsrud at the N. end. Fare 2 kr.; hire of the whole steamer on its disengaged days 28 kr. Small boat to Strand 13 kr. 60 0. The Tinsje on the whole resembles the Spirillen, but the banks are even lower then those of that lake. The steamer calls at two intermediate stations, Sanden (to the left) and Hovin (to the right). to the Rjukanfos. RJUKANFOS. 3. Route. 23 The finest point in the scenery is the Haakencesfield, which the steamer skirts. Soon after, 23/4hrs. afterleaving Tinoset, we reach—— Strand (Ornazs Hotel, at the pier; *Fagerstrand’s Hotel, outside the village), near the church of Male, at the mouth of the Mean- Elv. Carriage to Vaaer and back, 10—15 kr. The broad road ascends the Vestfio'rd—Dal, on the left bank of the Maan-Elv. To the right opens the Haakedal, from the sides of which several waterfalls precipitate themselves into the valley be- low. The majestic Gausta becomes visible to the left about 1/2 hr. after leaving Strand. In 1 hr. more we reach (10 Kil.) Dale (Inn), a prettily situated hamlet, near the foot of the Gausta (6180 ft. ), the highest mountain in S. Norway, which commands a magni- ficent view, and may be ascended hence without difficulty in 6 hrs. (there and back, 10 hrs.; guide, near the church, 4 kr. ; the night may be spent at Langefondstrter, about 2/3 of the way to the top). —— From Dale to Landsvaerk, see p. 26. At the houses of Vaaer, 20 Kil. from Strand (a drive of 3 hrs), the road ceases. We ascend hence by a steep footpath to the con— spicuous (35-40 min.) *Krokan Inn (belonging to the ‘Turistforen- ing’; R. 1 kr. 60 0., S. 2, B. 1 kr.; 2300 ft. above the sea), about 250 paces beyond which is the point where the magnificent *Rjukanfos (‘reeking’ or ‘foaming fall’) bursts upon the view. This waterfall, formed by the large Maan-Elv, is one of the finest in Europe and is about 800 ft. in height. The scene is stupendous in the early summer, when the river is swollen with melted snow, but less picturesque than when there is less water, as the fall is partially concealed by the spray and foam. The adjuncts of the fall are also remarkably picturesque. The point of view which we have reached is about 500'yds. from the fall, but it is scarcely ad- visable to attempt a nearer approach. Some of the projecting rocks are not very secure. FROM THE RJUKANFOS TO THE HARDANGER FJORD. There are two practicable but somewhat trying routes for pedestrians and riders from the Rjukanfos to the Hardanger Fjord, one to Odde, and one to Eidtjord, of which the former is the easier. Ole Knudsen Vaa of Krokan may be engaged as a guide (distinct bargain desirable). To Odde, 11-5 days. 1st Day. From Krokan to Holm'lc (*Inn), on the Mjosvand (2800 ft.), a walk or ride of 4 hrs. by a fatiguing path, on which snow sometimes lies early in the season. To the W. are the huge Raulandsfjeld and the Theaeggen. The dreary-looking Mjesvand, 22 Engl. M. long, and 1-6 M. broad, is then crossed by boat, passing Mjesstranden, to (31/2 hrs.) the W. bank, whence a path, very rough and marshy at places, leads across the Bz'tdalselv, in 6 hrs. to Rauland (Inn, tolerable), on the N. bank of the Totakvand (2080 ft.), or to Berge (Inn, fair), also on the lake, 8. little farther on. -— 2nd Day. Row from Rauland or from Berge to Kosthveit (slow station) in 1 hr. , and drive or ride thence by a rough road to (14 Kil.) Jamsgaard z‘ Va'nje in 21/2 hrs., and from Jams- gaard via Nylwnd to (48 Kil.) Batten (p. 28) in 7 hrs. - 3rd Day: from Botten to the (17 Kil.) Haukeh'swter a drive of 3hrs., thence to (28 Kil.) Reldal, a ride or walk of 8-9 hrs. -— 4th Da : from Rgldal to (28 Kil.) Seljestad, a drive of 5—6 hrs., and thence to ( Kil.) Odde, a drive of 4—5 hrs. -- Comp. pp. 29-31. 24 Route 3. SVENNESUND. From' Kongsberg The above route from the Rjukanfos to Odde may be varied as follows. Ride from Holvik by a rough and often marshy path all the way to Berge (see above) in 7-8 hrs. —- Or row from Holvik to Erlandsgaard in 1 hr., walk to Gtbeen in 2 hrs., cross the S. arm of the Mjgsvand in 1/2 hr., and walk to Berge, passing the fine gaard of Gjuveland, in 5 hrs. -— From Berge or Rauland we may row to Br'unelid in 2 hrs., then ascend through the steep Gr'ungedalsbygd to Nylaend (p. 28) in 31/2 hrs., and drive thence in 31/2 hrs. more to Batten (p. 28). To THE V5RINosFos AND EIDFJORD, 4-5 days, for pedestrians only. 1st Day. From Krokan to Holvik (see above) in 4 hrs.; row thence in 3‘/-; hrs. to Mjesstrand, and in 31/2-4 hrs. more to the upper end of the lake; walk in 1/2 hr. to Mogen (poorquarters). — 2nd Day (with guide to Eidfjord, 16 kr.). The path ascends towards the NW. to the (6 Kil.) Gjuvsje, a lake abounding in fish, passes several small tarns on the left, and crosses (20 Kil.) the Gjuvaa, a stream 11/2-2 ft. deep. It next passes the (6 Kil.) Skarvand, and then three mountain-lakes on the left, where the soil is boggy and the scenery very desolate. Farther on we pass several more tarns on the left, and the Lagtjeern and Nor'drnands-Laa- gen on the right, the latter of which is well stocked with fish. Just beyond this lake we have to cross the Bessaelv, a considerable stream which falls into the lake, and here, after a laborious walk of 12-13 hrs., we spend the night in the Bessabu, a small stone but which affords no ac- commodation of any kind. (It is, however, preferable, if possible, to spend the night in a fisherman’s but on the neck of land between the Lagtjaern and Nordmandslaagen). -— 3rd Day. Our route continues to traverse wild and bleak mountain scenery, occasionally crossing snow, to (25 Kil.) Beer'- rastelen, a walk of 5-6 hrs., whence a good path leads in 2 hrs. to the (9 Kil.) Veringsfos, near which is the farmhouse of Hot, where if neces- sary the night may be spent. From H51 to Etdfjord 31/2-4 hrs. From Kongsberg to the Hardanger Fjord through the Numedal. This excursion takes 4-5 days. Of the three great routes (comp. pp. 78, 84) leading from E. Norway across the Fjeld to W. Norway, this is the least attractive. Fine scenery, however, is not altogether lacking, while the inhabitants have retained more of their primitive characteristics than those of Valders or the Hallingdal, and the interest of their country is enhanced by numerous traditions. A carriage-road with fast stations leads through the Numedal to Bresterud (138 Kil. or 851/2 Eng. M.), from which driving is also practicable to Floten, 11 Kil. farther, beyond which the traveller must ride or walk. . The road follows the right bank of the Laagen, which descends from the Nordmands-Laagen in Hardanger (1500 ft.; see above). As far as Skjenne, where the Laagen and Opdalselo unite, the see- nery is somewhat monotonous. 17 Kil. jLSvennesund. Farther on we pass the church of Fles- berg, situated on the left bank of the Laagen. The next stations are (14 Kil.) 'i-Heimyr , (17 Kil.)‘i'Al/bltid, and (23 Kil.) THelle, at the S. end of the KraviIc-Fjord (868 ft.). The district between the church of Vceglid and Skajem is picturesque. The road runs for 22 Kil. along the bank of the Kraoikfjord and Nore-Fjord, which had better be traversed by boat, and passes many thriving farm-houses. One of the old buildings of Gaarden Kravik is said to date from the 12th century. The Nore-Kirke, on the W. bank of the Nore-Fjord , an old timber-built church now doomed to demo- lition, contains interesting paintings and inscriptions in a kind of hieroglyphics , the objects (eyes, ears , animals, the devil, etc.) to the Hardangerfjord. SKJQNNE. 3. Route. 25 themselves being represented. —~— The Eidsfjeld (4300 ft.), rising to the W., may be ascended from Nore in one day. 25 Kil. q'rSazoli lies at the N. end of the Nore-Fjord, and 3 Kil. farther is Skjcrnne (920 ft.), an ancient ‘Tingsted’, or place of as- size, now belonging to the brothers Torsten, Torgil, and Kettil, who accommodate visitors at their farm. From Skjgnne across the Fjeld to Hal in the Hallingdal, 11/2-2 days. The bridle-path ascends rather steeply, skirting the Laagen, which rushes through its channel far below, and passing the Eygaarde, to the (11 Kil.) S. end of the Tankard-Fjord (2550 ft.). At Haga we take a boat and ascend the lake, being towed through several rapids, to the (22 Kil.) N. end. Then a steep ascent to Tunhervd, a hill-farm, where good quarters for the night are obtained. Next day we cross monotonous ‘Heier’ (barren heights), skirting the Redungsvand (2790 ft.) and the base of the Sange-rfjeld (3755 ft.), and passing several seeters, and at length reach H01(Hammersb6en) in the Hallingdal (p. 83). A little beyond Skjenne the road enters the Opdal, and the scenery becomes very picturesque. Within the next 8 Kil. (5 Engl. the road ascends 600 ft. to the Fennebufjord (1525 ft.), at the W. end of which is (14 Kil.) 'f‘Liverud. Thence to (22 Kil.)1-Bre- sterud (2550 ft.) a continuous ascent through a somewhat mono- tonous region. From Brtisterud to Hal in the Hallingdal a mountain-path leads in 1-1‘/-,; days. It crosses a hill (3800 ft.) whence the Hallingskarv to the N.W. and the whole of the Jotunheim chain are visible, and then descends past the Vass and Hefde seeters to Kjernsaas in Dagalid (2750 ft.). We again cross the mountain to the Skm'dal (2740 ft.; poor quarters), and then another height to the Ustadal, pass several farms, and reach Hammers» been and Hal (p. 83). For the journey across the mountain ‘Vidder’ (‘widths’, or ‘ex- pauses’) to the Hardanger (100 Kil., a walk of two days at least) a guide should be engaged either at Brosterud, or, if possible, lower down the valley (12 kr.), and a supply of provisions ob- tained. The route starts from the Floten (Flaata, or Nerstebo) farm , 14 Kil. to the N. of Bresterud (good quarters), at first fol- lows the saeter-path, and then traverses a lofty plateau (4000 ft.) commanding an extensive view in every direction. It passes the S. side of the Solheimsfield, the Skars-vand, and the Ylgelidsazter; it then leads round the Heljebrete/fjeld to the Gjetsje (Langvand), where the Laagen is crossed by boat, and to Hansbu (3380 ft.), a fisherman’s hut at the E. end of the Langesje, which afiords poor quarters for the night (45 Kil. from Floten). —-— Next morning our route leads round the Redhellerfield to the N.W. to the Holmetjern, and then, crossing the boundary between the Numedal and the Hallingdal Fogderi, and skirting the S'ointa, reaches the Nybu- saztre (3600 ft.), on the Nybusje , the first on the W. side of the fjeld ( Vestenfjeldske Norge). Beyond this we generally follow the course of the Bjoreia, which lower down forms the Voringsfos (p. 61), and cross snow-fields, brooks, and marshes. The path is marked by ‘Varder’, or signals, as far as Storlien, and thence to Maurswt (2370 ft.) and Hal it cannot be mistaken (comp. p. 83). 26 4. From Christiania to Odds. Thelemarken. Comp. the Maps, pp. 20, 30. THELEMARKEN, one of the most picturesque districts in Norway, extending from the vicinity of Kongsberg on the E. to the Haukeli-Saeter on the W., and from Kragere on the S. to the Hardanger Vidder on the N., boasts of several beautiful lakes, a number of fine waterfalls, and much wild mountain scenery, but cannot compare in grandeur or variety with the W. coast of Norway. It is, however, now visited by large num- bers of tourists. The inns have improved considerably of late years, and are now often really clean and comfortable; the charges are somewhat high. Many of the lakes afford excellent trout-fishing, so that, if the pursuit of angling be combined with the exploration of the scenery, several weeks might most pleasantly be devoted to this district alone. Some of the mountains and forests also afford good shooting. The fol- lowing description embraces the two chief routes through the district from E. to W. a. V13. KON GSBERG. 402 Kil. (250 Engl. M.). RAILWAY to Kongsbe-rg, 98 Kil., see p. 19', carriage~road thence to the Haukelt-Sceter, 223 Kil.; road for part of the way, and then bridle-path, to Raldal, 28 Kil., carriage-road to Odde, 53 Kil. -— This fine route may be accomplished with tolerable ease in 5 days, but 8-10 days should, if possible, be devoted to the journey and the points of interest on the way. Travellers by this route desirous of seeing the Rjukanfos and of avoiding the rough route thence to Holvik, the Totakvand, and Jamsgaard (p. 23) may visit the waterfall from Lysthus, returning thither by the same route, in 2 days. The direct route may be conveniently divided into the following stages: —— 1st Day. Railway to Kongsber'g (dep. early in the morning, arr. about noon), drive to Landsvcerk (17 Kil. beyond Lysthus, the station for the digression to the Rjukanfos) in 8-9 hrs. -— 2nd Day. Drive to Mogen in 10-12 hrs. — 3rd Day. Drive to Botten in 10-12 hrs. — 4th Day. Drive to Haukeli- Saute-1' in 21/2-3 hrs., walk or ride to Reldal in 7-8 hrs. -— 5th Day. Drive to Odde in 9-10 hrs. -— The usual charge on this route for a horse and horse and carriole is 15 a. per kilometre. The stations are all fast. From Christiania to Kongsberg, and thence to Notodden (Furn- hez'm) and the church of Hitterdal, see R. 3. Pedestrians will be repaid by leaving the high-road 5 Kil. beyond Hitterdals-K'irke (p. 21), crossing the river, ascending the Himingen (3440ft.), an isolated, pyramidal hill which commands an admirable view in every direction, and descending thence to Mosebe (see below)‘, a walk of 7-8 hrs. (guide desirable). About 10 Kil. beyond Hitterdal the road to the Tinsje (p. 22) diverges to the right (N .), while our route leads to the W. to -— 19 Kil. TLandsvaark i Sauland (good station), 3 Kil. short of the old station Mosebe. Picturesque scenery. FROM Mosnee 'ro DALE in the Vestfjorddal, or Maanelv Valley 23), 39 Kil. (24 Engl. M.). -— Carriage-road to Been in the Tudal, ' Kil. (141/2 Engl. M.)-, thence by a saeterpath across the spurs of the Gausta and past the Langefondswter to Date in 4-5 hours. A long, but in many re- spects interesting day”s journey. By sleeping at Been and starting very early next morning, we may ascend the Gausta on the way. As we ascend the valley the scenery becomes wilder and more imposing. Passing the Hjtrrsje on the left, we next stop at — 17 Kil. 1- Skeje i Hjazrdal (poor station). From this station the traveller may ascend the Vindegg (4890 ft.), which commands a magnificent survey of the Gausta and other mountains. MOEN. 4. Route. 27 The route ascends in 2-3 hrs. past several picturesque waterfalls, the parsonage, the Fyrebovatn, and a number of seeters, to the Proestegaards- Sceter, from which the summit is reached in 2-3 hrs. more (guide desirable). The road now ascends to the watershed between the Hjzerdal and the Flatdal. Near the top of the hill (11 Kil.) a road diverges to the N.W. to (11 Kil.) Aamotsdal, whence paths lead to the To- takvand and Mjesvand (p. 21), the former being about 40 Kil., the latter 50 Kil. from our present route. From Aamotsdal another path leads via Razkelid to (28 Kil.) Vaaer (p. 23). Our road turns towards the S. and descends by zigzags, commanding very striking views, to Flatdal, with its little church and sprinkling of farms, beyond which is the Ftatdalsvand, with the Skoroefjeld (4440 ft.) rising in the background. Adjoining the lake is the Spaadomsnut, the falling of which into the water, according to local tradition, will be the prelude to the end of the world. The next station is -- 25 Kil. '(Moen i Siljord (good station), prettily situated on the Siljordsvand (400 ft.), a picturesque lake, 17 Kil. (101/2 Engl. M.) in length, traversed 4-5 times weekly by a small steamboat. On the N.E. side of the lake rises the Lifjeld, on which two French aeronauts descended in 1870, having arrived in their balloon from Paris in 15 hours. FROM MOEN TO SKIEN , 87 Kil. (54 Engl. M.). The first stage may be performed by steamer. 14 Kil. + Telnces, 20 Kil. ~l- Kleppen, 7 Kil. (pay for 14) +Seboden, where the Nordsjo steamer for Skien may be taken; 15 Kil. 1- Ulefos, 11 Kil. +Holtan, 13 Kil. (pay for 15) -l-Kloveland, 7 Kil. (pay for 10) 1-Skien (p. 33). About 12 Kil. from Siljord we pass Brunkebergs-Kirke, near which a road diverges to the S. to (10 Kil.) Hvideseid, about 8 min. walk beyond which is the pier of the steamer plying on the Hvidesje and Bandaksvand (p. 35). Our route now leads to the N.W. through the Morgedal, passing near several considerable lakes, abounding in trout. We next stop at (10 Kil. from the church) — 21 Kil. TBe'rge z‘ Brunkeberg (poor station), and then cross a range of hills of considerable height to -- 14 Kil. '1- Mogen i Heidalsmo (good station), near which a road diverges to the S. to (14 Kil.) Triscet on the Bandaksvand (p. 35). In the vicinity are several lakes which are said to afford good fishing. A hilly but very picturesque bye-road leads hence towards the N. to (37 Kil.) Rauland on the imposing Totakvand (p. 23). -- Our route continues in a straight direction, traversing a fine moun- tainous region. 23 Kil. 'fMule i Vinje (1500 ft.; tolerable station), prettily situated at the E. end of the Vinjevand. From Mule to Noesland and Ravnejuvet, see p. 36. From Mule, a somewhat hilly road ascends the N. bank of the lake for about 200 yds., passing several farms, amongst which is Jamsgaard (no station), where a carriage-road diverges to Kosthoeit on the Totalwand (p. 23). — Our road descends abruptly to the church of Vinje, at the N.W. end of the Vinjevand. Here a 28 Route 4. BOTTE'N. From Christiania beautiful view is obtained of the Midtfield (4527 ft.) and of the Orm Eggen to the S.W. The road then crosses the Grungedals-Elv by a lofty bridge, and follows the right bank of the river towards the N., first passing through a pine-wood, and then ascending to the hamlet of Kringlegd. The Flaatsbunut on the Totakvand now comes into sight to the N., and remains in view during the re- mainder of the journey through " the somewhat monotonous valley. We now cross the Elv by the Grungedalsbro, a sort of Norwegian ‘Devil’s Bridge’, commanding a delightful view to the S. and W. Here the road is joined on the right by a footpath from Brunelid on the Totakvand (p. 23). A little farther on we reach the pretty Grungedalsoand (1590 ft.), on the N. bank of which is situated the station of — 22 Kil. Nylaend (poor; overcharges complained of). The next part of the route, skirting the green but shallow lake and affording a good view of the Grungedalsfield, is very picturesque. After passing the Church of Grungedal we reach the farms of Eilandt, where travellers in the reverse direction generally halt for 1/2 hr. (An uninteresting footpath leads hence to the N.W. end of the Totakvand.) The road now follows the left bank of the Flaathel-El/v. To the left we see the fine Vafos descending from the Langeid- sand in a series of bold leaps. Near the farm of Kasti, to the right, the pines disappear. The route now ascends the dreary and almost entirely uninhabited valley, passing several Hot, or deep pools formed by the Elv after breaking through , in the form of water- falls or rapids, the various rocky barriers thrown across its course, The largest of these waterfalls is named the Rjukanfos (comp. p. 23), the largest Had the Ekelidhel (2290 ft.). Continuing to ascend without intermission, we at last reach — 27 Kil. vj‘Botten i Grungedal (2590 ft. ; good station), situated on the pretty Voxlioand and commanding a good view of the Groo- hoved, Simlenuten, and Haukelifjeld. FRoM BOTTEN 'ro STAVANGER. Good walkers (for the path is almost. too rough for riding) may here diverge to the S.W. to (45 Kil.) Jordbrwlcke, a walk of 14-16 hrs., and (7 Kil.) Roaldkvam on the Suledalsvand. From Roaldkvam to Stavanger via Hylen or Sand, see pp. 47-49. Beyond Botten the road at first skirts the Voxlivand, passing the farm of Voxli on the right, and then the Arrebu'vand and the E'venbuoand. The district traversed is deserted and monotonous, a few old and dying pines being almost the only objects to attract the eye. Farther on the road runs more to the right, on the hill, and reaches a point commanding a fine *View of the mountains to the W.: to the left Vasdalseggen (5765 ft.), then Kistebunuten, the Ktellevasheia, the Sveien, and to the right, the Storefond. Below us, to the left, lies the Kjaela'vand (2940 ft.), to the S. of which rises the Kjazlatz'nd. The trees now entirely disappear. The road now traverses the high-lying plateau to ~- to Odde. DYRESKARD. 4. Route. 29 17 Kil. (pay for 22) Haukeli-Swter (3720 ft.; good accommo- dation). Guide to Reldal 4 kr., necessary as far as Tarjebudal (p. 30) only. Horse with guide (and side-saddle if required) 6 kr.; for a heavy port- manteau a second horse must be engaged; trunks cannot be taken. Stol- kjcerre to the Fjeld 15 per kilometre. The tariff from Tarjebudal to ‘IE-algalris the same, but carrioles cannot be obtained unless ordered by 01' 11 . The Haukeli-Sa’ter is a fjeldgaard at the E. end of the Staaoand, occupied throughout the year. It lies in the midst of most impos— ing scenery , and commands an unimpeded view of the above- named mountains of the field, with the exception of the Storefond. The peaks and even some parts of the plateau remain covered with snow as late as August. —- Comp. the Map, p. 52. The present route from the Haukeli-Saeter to Roldal (28 Kil.) is somewhat rough and fatiguing, but a new road across the Han- kelifjeld is now in progress and will be finished in 1884. The sce- nery, particularly on the first part of the route, is impressive if notdexactly picturesque. The cube-shaped mountains fall away abruptly on all sides, and their bases are surrounded with desolate ‘Ures’ (fallen stones); the plateau is covered with snow. The deep and narrow side-valleys lead on the N. to the lonely Saeters of the Hardangervidde, where herds of reindeer are kept, a landscape of great grandeur but bleak and desolate in the extreme. ' The new road leads from the Haukeli-Saeter towards the N. \V., skirting the Staaoand, as far as the bridge over the outflow of the Ulleoaa- Vatten (3100 ft.), where the Nupsfos descends from the N. To the left rise the lofty mountains of the fjeld, to the right is the Store Fond, with the Nups Eggen (5695 ft.). At the bridge we quit the Bratsbergsamt and enter the Bergenhusamt; the following seeters, although situated on the E. side of the fjeld, consequently belong to Reldal. Pedestrians and riders cross the bridge and follow the ‘strong’ saeter path on the S. bank of the Ullevaa-Vatten, leaving the Ullevaa— Sceter to the left. The carriage-road remains on the N. bank of the lake, and unites with the bridle-path at its W. end. The scene is one of wild and lonely grandeur; to the right the steep sides of the Storefond, to the left the Sveien, in front of us the Stafsnuten, to the right of the latter the Rekkingsnuten and the Midtdiirrnstene. About 8 Kil. from the Haukeli-Saeter the path ascends in steep zigzags to the (1/2 hr.) pass of Dyreskard, the highest point of which lies 3720 ft. above the sea. At the top there is generally a good deal of snow, forming the so-called Dyre Fond. The path now turns to the S., passing after 20 min. a Refuge Hut, on the right, at the base of the dark Sta/'snuten. We then descend by a stony path to the green and solitary Qistenvatten, the N. bank of which we then skirt (10 min.). The N.W. side of the Kallevasheia now comes into sight on the left. -— We follow ta W, direction and in 20 min. reach the — 30 Route 4. GRYTING. From Christiania Midtlseger-Saeter, a small earthen hut on a lake, where a halt is usually made for resting (milk, bread, etc.). The scenery is monotonous. In 1/2 hr. more we pass the Svandalsflaaene, a lonely saeter-house at the foot of the Stafsnuten, to be made a skyds-sta- tion on the completion of the road. To the left, farther on, are several small tarns, above which rises the jagged Rensnuten; to the W., in the distance, the snow-clad Horreheia. The river flowing hence towards the S. forms the Navlefos lower down (see below). Crossing a hill called Staoen, we now descend gradually to the Risbo-Etv, with the Ormcfald saster to the right. At this point the CARRIAGE Roan recommences, crossing the stream and descending the Tarjebudal. The scenery becomes more interesting, and from the hill above the Valdal a fine view is ob- tained of the valley, the blue lake of Reldal, and the Horreheia. The road now descends to the Valdal, crosses the stream, and follows the right bank. (The old bridle-path along the ridge is shorter but not to be recommended.) At the farm of Stohovden (to the right) we enjoy an admirable view of the Navlefos (to the left), above which lie several saeters. We now soon reach the beautiful Raldal with its numerous farms. The lake, with the interesting old church at the N. end and the Holmenuten and Rotdalsaaten (4100 ft.) rising to the S.W., forms a very attractive picture. 28 Kil. 'i' Grytz'ng i Reldal (good quarters; accommodation also at Hagen’s, the Lensmand) lies at the N. end of the small Reldalsoand (6 Eng. M. in length), surrounded by precipitous mountains. Near it is an old ‘Stavekirke’ (p. 22). FROM RgLDAL TO STAVANGER. We row to Botten at the S. end of the lake, and then ride across the fjeld to (23 Kil.) New on the Suledalsvand, whence Stavanger is easily reached (see p. 48). The new road to Odde crosses the Tufte-Elv, skirts the N.W. bank of the lake to Horre, and then ascends gradually, through in- teresting scenery, by a series of interminable windings known as the Horrebmkhene, which the pedestrian can considerably abbreviate. The Botten—Sazter is passed on the left. To the right rises the pre- cipitous Horreheia, to the left the Elgcrsheia. Fine retrospect of the Reldalsvand and the Bredfond and other mountains to the E. At the top of the lonely plateau (3300 ft.), the road passes several small tarns. A little farther on the view of the W. part of the fjeld begins to disclose itself, increasing in extent and grandeur as we descend the **Gorsvingane. Deep below us lies the narrow Gors- botn, surrounded with precipitous mountains and enclosing the dark-blue Gorsoatten, with a waterfall at one end. Beyond this valley lies the extensive district of Odde, with the snow-fields of the flat Folgefond (p. 53), many miles in length. The whole scene is one of great grandeur and peculiarly Norwegian in style. The old bridle-path runs parallel with the Gorsvingane, on the other side of the brook, which is crossed by several snow—bridges. Far- ther on it changes its name to the Hcdstcn-Elv. On arriving at the , '" titan . as I‘ ‘v I“ , 1,,‘ h '1 3 . I ‘ w ‘ I‘ '- I " i :2, H: ‘I ._ 4' - _ _ t Arendal u. Krisiiflisand Arondal u.lirii.iansand GoogiraphAnstnll v. v ' '4. “M, “war...” ‘-.._ to Odde. HOLMESTRAND. 4. Route. 31 lower end of the Gors/vatten (2800 ft.), we pass through a kind of rocky gate, beyond which the whole landscape above described is , seen before us as in a map. We then proceed in easy windings, passing the Soaagen and the Hedstensnuten on the right, to an un- interesting green plateau, on which lies — 28 Kil. Setjestad (2070 ft. ; unpretending quarters). Farther on the road crosses the Elv , which soon after forms the Hestelclevfos (worth alighting to see), and then descends circuitously by the Hestek- too, which is continued by the *Seljestadjuoet, a deep and formerly dangerous ravine. Fine views at every point of the Folgefond and the mountains of Odde. We again cross the Elv and follow the right bank. The Jesendal opens on the left, to the right are the houses of Share (p. 65). The road descends the valley and leads by Hildat (8 Kil.; p. 10) to Odde (65 Kil.), see pp. 64, 65. b. V1.3. SKIEN. This route generally takes 6 days, but under favourable circumstances may be completed in less. — 1st Day. From Christiania to Skien either by steamboat the whole way (4 times weekly, Sun., Tues., Thurs., and Frid.) in 11-12 hrs. (200 Kil. or 124 Eng. M.; fares 12 or 8 kr.); or by railway to Laurvik (158 Kil. or 98 M.; fares 7 kr. 15, 4 kr. 75 o.) in 5-63/4 hrs., and thence by steamer (leaving Laurvik in the afternoon) to Skien. The railway is now being prolonged to (203 Kil.) Skien. — 2nd Day. From Skien to Ulefos by steamer in 21/;; hrs. (daily except Sun., fare 2 kr.) and drive to Strcengen in 3 hrs. — 3rd Day. From Straengen to Trisoet by the steamer ‘Thelemarken’ on the Flaa, Hvideseid, and Bandak Lakes (daily except Sun. and Frid.) in 5 hrs., drive from Trisaet to Mogen in 1% hr. —— 4th, 5th, and 6th Days, as in Route a. Instead of driving from Trisaet to Mogen the traveller may take the pleasanter route via Dale and Ravnejuvet to Mule (also recommended as a special excursion), but in this case he must restrict his luggage to the smallest possible dimensions. From Christiania to (53 Kil.) Drammen, see R. 2. The railway (‘Jarlsbergbane’) from Drammen to Laurvik and Skien runs to the SW. past the suburb of Tangen and then ascends, at a considerable gradient (1 :80), the Kobberoiksdal, the highest point of which is reached at 62 Kil.) Skouger. —- 69 Kil. Galteberg. 73 Kil. (4 Engl. Sande, with the church of the same name, situated near the Sandefiord or Sandesognfiord, of whicha fine view is obtained to the left. The nextpart of the line skirts the fjord. 86 Kil. (531/2 Engl. Holmestrand (Hdtel du Nord; Ves- man’s), a sea-bathing-place with 2200 inhab., situated at the foot of a steep porphyry clifi. The train now leaves the coast for a little. 96 Kil. Nykirke. 100 Kil. Skopum, near the Borrevand ,- branch-line hence to Bone and (3 Kil.) Horton (see p. 37). 103 Kil. (64 Angedal. 109 Kil. Barkaker. To the right we see the chateau of Jarlsberg. The train then passes through a short tunnel and reaches -— 115 Kil. (71 Tznsberg (Schnurbusch’s Hotel; Victoria), a 32 7 Route 4. LAURVIK. From Christiania town with 5700 inhab., and the oldest in Norway, dating from the time of Harald Haarfagre. This is the headquarters of Sven Foyn (see p. 264) and a number of hardy Arctic mariners residing chiefly in the islands of Nettem and Tjeme to the S. of the town, who man the fleet of about fifty Whalers and seal-hunting vessels of considerable size (one-third of them being steamers) which annu- ally starts from this port. The hill above the town, formerly crowned by a castle and now penetrated by the above-mentioned railway tunnel, commands a beautiful view. The line does not extend any farther in this direction, and the train backs out of the station and returns for 7 Kil. in the direction from which it came. At (121 Kil.) Sem or Semb it crosses the Oule'e-Et'v. 128 Kil. Stoklte. 135 Kil. Raastad. 139 Kil. (86 Sandefjord (Hotel Kong Karl,- Heidema'rlc’s Ho‘tel ,- Johnsen’s Hotel), a favourite, but somewhat expensive wa- tering-place with 2500 inhab., prettily situated on the fjord of the same name. It stands in regular steamboat communication with Christiania. The sea here in summer swarms with medusae (‘ma- neter’), which make not altogether desirable addition to the plea- sures of bathing, but are said to exercise a beneficial effect in cer- tain ailments. Mud-baths and sulphur baths are also employed here. —_— The Jmttegryder near Aasen are very interesting; the largest is upwards of 20 ft. deep. Other giant-caldrons of a similar kind at the (6 Kil.) Vindalsbugt may be visited by boat. —— The whole district between Tonsberg and Laurvik is replete with historical interest. At Hjertnoes, where there are several Bauta Stones, the large Viking ship now exhibited at Christiania was dug up. 144 Kil. (891/2 Joberg, in the midst of a well-wooded district. 149 Kil. Tjedling, commanding a view of the Lauroiks- fjord as far as Fredriksvaern. In the vicinity is the hamlet of Kou- pang, perhaps the old historical Skiringssal. The train now crosses the Laagen (p. 24), which descends from the Numedal, by a bridge 550 ft. in length, with five arches. It then traverses the suburb of Thorstrand, passes through a tunnel, and reaches ~— 158 Kil. Laurvik. —- Hotels. "LAuRvIK’s HOTEL, 5 min. to the W. of the harbour, on the Faris-Elv, R. 1 kr. 609.; HANSENS, in the Torv; rooms may also be obtained in the Festivitc'itslokal. Bath Establishment, at the harbour, near Laurvik’s Hotel, with good sulphur, mud, and warm salt-water baths (80 13.), and a. sulphureous drinking-spring. ‘Kurpenge‘, or visitors’ tax , for baths, physician, and spring, 20 kr. per week, for a stay of more than a month 15 kr. per week. —- Sea-Baths, to the W. of the harbour. ,- Laurvik or Larvz'lc, formerly the capital of the county of that name, is finely situated near the mouth of the Laagen or Longer; in the Lauroikfjord, and is a pleasant place for a short residence. With the suburbs of Langestmnd to the W. and Thorstrand to the E. it contains 8000 inhabitants. The station lies close to the harbour, which the railway skirts. A pleasant walk may be taken along the wharfs. Proceeding to- to Odde. SK'IEN. 4. Route. 33 wards the E., we reach, on the right, the Laurviks Kirke, which commands a fine view of the fjord, or in a straight direction, beyond the prison, the Herrgottsbakken. To the W., the bridge crosses to the suburb of Langestrand; it is, however, better to turn to the N. before reaching the bridge and follow the principal street, passing a weir, to the (10 min.) Farisoand. The outflow of this lake affords the motive power for the Fritze saw-mills, and several other manufactories. We then return to the above-mentioned weir, ascend to the left to the town itself, and proceed towards the N. to the (1/4 hr.) *Begeskog, a fine beech-plantation, commanding a beautiful view, especially by evening light (cafe; best point of view at the W. end of the ridge traversing the park). The direct way from the harbour to the Bogeskog passes the Brandvagt on the left. A steamer plies thrice weekly from Laurvik via J5nsberg to Fredrik- stad (p. 273), affording the quickest route for reaching Sweden. The steamer from Laurvik to Skien follows the route via Lange- sund described at p. 38. --—~ The railway (now approaching com- pletion) crosses the Faris-El/v, and skirts the W. bank of the pic- turesque Farisoand. 169 Kil'. Tjose; 181 Kil. Aaklangen, on the small lake of that name. The train now turns to the S., passing several lakes. 188 Kil. Birkedalen; 191 Kil. Eidanger on the Ei- danger-Fjord. The line then proceeds towards the W. to —- 195 Kil. (121 Engl. Porsgrund (Stiansen’s Hotel), a town of 8600 inhab., situated on both sides of the Skiens-Elu, which descends from the Nordsje and here enters a bay of the Friersfiord. The harbour generally contains some large English and American vessels, taking in cargoes of ice from the ‘Ishuse’ at Traag. Beyond Porsgrund the train ascends the left bank of the broad Skiens-Elv to ~— 2031111. (125 Engl.M.) Skien. — Hotels. Hornn’s HOTEL, at fire pier of the southward-bound steamers, R. 2l/2, B. 1, S. 21/2 kr.; SKIENS 0TISnteamers. The steamers for Thelemarken (to the N.W.) start from the dam to the N. of the Damfos: to Ulefos and Tangent‘Ht'tterdal daily except Sun, in 2% and 5% hrs. (fares 2 and 31/2 kr.). Those for the S. (Pors- grund, Langesund, Christiania) ply 4 times weekly, starting from'the pier opposite Skiens Hotel, about 1/2 M. (Engl.) from the other steamboat-quay. Skien (pron. Shane), a town with 5460 inhab., the ancient Skida, dates originally from the 14th cent., but in consequence of repeated fires now consists of modern wooden houses. The church was erected in,1777. Between the two steamboat piers are the Klosterfos and the Damfos, two waterfalls of great volume, which are crossed by bridges. On a small island between the falls form- erly stood the nunnery of Gimse, founded in 1110. On the steep Bratsbergklen, to the E. of the town, are the ruins of the (1/2 hr.) Bratsberg Chapel, belonging to the adjacent Bratsberg- Guard, which has given its name to the entire district (fine view). , i The steamer for Ulefos ascends the Skiens-Elv, passing through the three curious locks of Leveid, and after 1 hr. enters the Nordsje BARDRKER’S Norway and Sweden. 2nd Edit. 3 34 Route 4. ULEFOS. From Christiania‘ (50 ft. above the sea), a picturesque lake about 45 Kil. or 28 Engl. M. in length. To the right in the rocky bank, at a height of about 200 ft. above the surface of the water, is the Mikalshule, or Michael’s cave, which may be visited by boat from Leveid. Religious ser- vices were held in it in former times. In about 1 hr. after enter- ing the lake the steamer reaches — 28 Kil. Ulefos (*Peer Jensen’s Inn, near the saw-mills to the right), picturesquely situated on the W. bank of the lake, with numerous castellated villas and gardens belonging to the rich man- ufacturers of the district. The skyds-station (no quarters) is at Holden on the S. bank of the Sogna (small boat 10-20 0.), which descends from the great Thelemarken lakes and here enters the Nordsje. About 1 Engl. M. above the village this little river forms the magnificent fall of Ule/‘os, which affords the motive power for numerous iron-works and saw-mills. To the S. is the church of Holden, to the N. the deserted church of Romences, on the head- land of that name. Travellers for the HI'r'rERnAL and the RJUKANFOS do not disembark at Ulefos, but go on with the steamer, passing the Romenaes, to Gvarvel and (11/2 hr.) Akershougen. [From here we may drive via (6 Kil.) Seboden to (24 Kil.) Telnoes, at the S. end of the Siljordsvand, comp. p. 27.] The steamer then proceeds to the N. end of the Nordsja, where the sce- nery is finer than at the S. end, and enters the Sauerelo, a river connect- ing the Nordsjel with the Hitterdalsvand (60 ft.), another picturesque lake, 16 Kil. in length. The steamer here touches at Bolvig, Hjukse (J1me), and Notodden (p. 21), and in about 6 hrs. after leaving Skien reaches Tangen (5 Kil. from the church of Hitterdal, p. 21). From Holden (Ulefos) we now drive (17-25 0. per Kil.; to Strwngen 3 kr.) through a fertile and uninteresting district, oc- casionally enjoying a view of the Lifijeld (p. 27) to the N., to (11Kil.) Lundefaret, opposite which is the church of Lunde. Beyond this point the road leads along the Sogna to 11 Kil.) Stmngen (tolerable quarters), at the E. end of the Flaavand, which we traverse by steamer. The rate of speed is at first very slow, on account of the vast quantities of timber floated down from the forests and massed round the outflow of the lake. The eland is still found in the forests on the banks. On reaching the W. end of the lake (17 Kil. from Straengen) the steamer enters the narrow Fjaagesund, which is bordered on the N. by the pre- cipitous .Gstnafjeld, and on the S. by terraces of alluvial formation sprinkled with numerous farms, and soon reaches the Hvidesjar (185 ft. above the sea). The scenery now becomes finer: to the right the Kuskreia, the abrupt S. slope of the Brakedalsfjeld; to the left, in the distance, the Roboltfjeld(3345 ft.), and to the W., near the Bandaksvand, the peak of the Rouberg. At the upper end of the lake lies the wooded island of Buke, and on the W. bank is the village of Hvideseid. The steamer, however, first enters the Sundkilen, a small lake connected with the Hvidesje by-a shallow sound, calls at Kirlcebe at its W. end, and then ref turns itoithe Hvidesje, rounds the Spjosodd, and stops at Hvidcseid. to Odde. BANDAKSVAND. 4. Route. 35 FROM HVIDESEID 'ro TVEDESTRAND (152 Kil. or 94 Engl. M.) or ARENDAL (161 Kil. or 100 Engl. M.). This is the least interesting of the three prin- cipal routes by which Thelemarken may be entered or quitted, but is by no means devoid of attraction. The road ascends rapidly, and then descends to (7 Kil.) i-Strand t Vraadal, a little to the W. of which lies the Vraavand (see below). Our route now turns to the S. and skirts the E. bank of the Nisservand (795 ft.), a fine sheet of water, 40 Kil. long, affording good trout-fishing. The next two stages may be performed by the small steamer which plies on the lake. The following stations are (23 Kil.) Tvet 2' Nissedal, (23 Kil.) Toetsund a’ Nissedal, (23 Kil.) Hy, (15Kil.) Neergaarde-n (fair station), (14 Kil.) Si'monstad r‘ Aaml'id, (l5 Kil.) Uberg, (l5 Kil.) Toede, (6 Kil.) Tvedestrand (p. 38). From Tvedestrand one steamer weekly runs direct to Christiania (in 15 hrs.), and one weekly to Christian- sand (7 hrs.), while small steamers ply almost daily to the Dynger and the Borer in correspondence with the larger coasting steamers to Christiania, Christiansand, and Bergen. The traveller bound for Christiansand will, however, find it preferable to drive direct from Uberg (see above) to (20Kil.) Brcekke and (10 Kil., pay for 13) Arendal (p. 38), whence a small steamer runs every morning, except Mondays, to Christiansand (in 6 hrs.), while the larger coasting steamers also touch here, conveying passengers daily to Christiansand and to Christiania. Beyond Hvideseid the steamer passes through the beautiful Skarpstrdmmen canal, connecting the Hvidesje with the picturesque *Bandaksvand (225 ft.), a lake 24 Engl. M. in length, enclosed by imposing mountains of considerable height, and well stocked with trout and other fish. The sharp peaks and ridges on the N. bank assume various fantastic forms, to which appropriate names have been attached. The first view of these mountains, after the station of Apalste (right) and the Bandakse (left) have been passed, is very imposing, but afterwards the lake becomes somewhat mono- tonous. The W. end, however, is enclosed by another fine group of mountains. On the N. bank, a little more than halfway up the lake, lies Jf'lfrisset (*Station; Sanatorium), with the church of Laur- dal, beautifully situated amidst rich vegetation which contrasts ad- mirably with the frowning mountains we have just passed. Landing here 1% hr. after leaving Hvideseid, we drive (15 e. per Kil.) through fine scenery to (14 Kil.) Mogen i Heidalsmo, where we join the high—road from Kongsberg to the Hardanger (p. 27). . On the Bandaksvand, opposite to Trisaet, and 3 Kil. distant from it, is Bandakslid, whence the hill is crossed by a series of very remark— able zigzags to the (8 Kil.) Vr'aavand (850 ft.), which is connected by a river with the Skredvand, a lake lying 300 ft. higher. Not far from the road this river forms a picturesque fall, known as the *Lz'lle Rjukanfos. Farther on (17 Kil. from Bandakslid) is Haugene, beyond which are Veum and (23 Kil.) Moland, on the Fyr'isvand (28 Kil. in length), on which a small steamboat plies. Between Veum and Moland the Br'spevez‘ diverges to the W. to (56 Kil.) Valle in the Soetersdal (p. 41), a very rough walk of 12-13 hrs. Instead of quitting the steamer at Trisaet, we may go on to (11/2 hr.)Da1en ( Tokedalen’s Hotel, by the pier; Inn in Dalen itself, 1 Engl. M. from the lake), at the upper end of the Bandaksvand. Dalen is the starting-point for a visit to the Ravnejuvet (3-4 hrs., there and back 7 hrs.; guide scarcely necessary; horse there and back, or by the Ravnejuvet to Naesland 4 kr., with fee of'1 kr.). ' The fine new-road‘ ascends to the N. in zigzags. along a'rock‘y wall 3 * 36 Route 5. GHRISTIANIA FJORD. From Christiania. 1500-2000 ft. high. Below us are woods of beeches and oaks, above us pines and firs. Fine view of the lake and of the Botnedal to the W. After 1-11/2 hr. we reach the top, and then proceed by a good and level road to the village of (1/2 hr.) Eidsborg (2300 ft.), where a manganese quarry and an ancient timber-built church (1242) are objects of interest. The road ceases here, and a bridle-path ascends the steep Eidsborgaasen. On reaching the top it descends on the other side, amid rocks and forests, to the Molands-Scete'r (milk). A tablet here indicates the way to *Ravnejuvet or Raonedjupet, a perpendicular rock, about 1000 ft. in height, overhanging the tur- bulent Tokeelv, and commanding a fine view of the Libygfijeld and the district of Naesland. A strong current of air constantly streams upwards from the ravine, so that light objects thrown from the top of the rock do not fall but are blown back over the edge. A pavilion has been erected here in memory of the visit of King Oscar in 1879. Travellers encumbered with much luggage must return from Dalen to Trisaet. Riders and pedestrians may, however, proceed from Ravnejuvet direct to Naesland and Mule. The path at first leads through dense forests, and afterwards descends rapidly and crosses the Tokeelv. In 1-11/4 hr. we reach the village of Naesland, where good accommodation may be ob- tained at the gaard of Sandok. Horses may also usually be procured here, but carrioles seldom. In the vicinity is the gaard of Gjelhus, with an old ‘Stabbur‘ said to date from 1115. The hilly road now leads through lonely forests. From the higher points we obtain a View of the Vehus- kjww'ingen (4508 ft.) to the S.E. At the foot of this mountain is the Hyllandsfos, formed by the Tokeelv, which descends from the Totakvand. After passing the Graven gaard and crossing the Vinje-Elv we reach the great Thelemarken high-road, which leads to Mule 2' V'inje (10 Kil. from Naesland); comp. p. 27. 5. From Christiania to Christiansand. STEAMBOATS (comp. ‘Nm'ges Commun'icatz'oner”). About twelve steamers start weekly from Christiania for Christiansand, a distance of 39 Norwegian nautical miles (156 Engl. M.), performing the voyage in 16-30 hrs., according to circumstances. The larger steamers, bound for Bergen, Throndhjem, and the North, touch between Christiania and Christiansand only at Arendal and Laurvik, while others touch at fourteen or fifteen inter- mediate stations. The traveller who proposes to break his journey at any station between these two towns may perform the first part of it by one of the small coasting steamers plying to Drebak (daily), Holmestrand (daily), Moss (almost daily), Ternsberg (almost daily), Sandej’jord (4 times a week), or to Porsgrund and Skt'en (4 times a week). The smaller vessels, which touch at numerous stations, ply almost exclusively ‘indenskjoers‘, i.e. within the Skjazrgaard, or belt of islands which flanks almost every part of the Norwegian coast, where the water is perfectly smooth , while the course of the larger steamers is ‘udenskjwrs’, or outside the islands, where the sea is often rough. The traveller may, therefore, if he prefer it, perform nearly the whole voyage to Christiansand in smooth water, with the additional advantage of getting occasional glimpses at some of the picturesque coast-towns. -— The usual cabin fare is 40 e. per Norwegian nautical mile, steerage 25 e. per mile. Most of the steamers have good restaurants on board (breakfast or supper about 11/2, dinner 2 kr.), and good, though limited sleeping accommodation (steward’s fee discretionary). --.Distances from Christiania are given approximately in Norwegian sea- miles, one of which is equal to 4 English‘ miles. The *OHRIs'rIANIA FJoRn, - a very picturesque arm of the sea, to Christiansand. DRO'BAK. 5. Route. 37 about 50 English miles in length, and enlivened with frequent steamboats and sailing'vessels , is bounded by banks of moderate height, which are studded with pleasant looking country-houses, villages, and towns. The steamer starts from the Bje'rvik on the E. side of Christiania (p. 4), steers between the islands of Blake and Grazsholm, commanding to the left a fine view of the beautiful Bundefjord with its numerous country-houses, and between the Linda and Ho'vedfl (on the right, with interesting strata of slate), and describes a circuit round the town. On the right rises the picturesque chateau of Oscarshall (p. 19), and to the left projects the promontory of Nwsoddtangen, which separates the Bundefjord from the main fjord of which it is a branch. To the right, a little farther on, lies Sand'viken (p. 13), ensconced behind a number of islands. The vessel now steers due S., and the beautiful city is soon lost to view. Looking back from this part of the fjord, we obtain a view of the Kolsaas, the Skogumsaas, and to the W. the Vardekolle, three porphyry hills well known to geologists (p. 14). Several islands are passed , and the fjord gradually contracts to a passage barely 700 yds. in width. 4 M. (26 Kil.) Drebak (two hotels), with 1700 inhab., carries on a considerable traffic in timber and ice. The latter is obtained from a small lake in the neighbourhood, and is exported to England as ‘Wenham Lake ice’. In winter , when the upper part of the fjord is blocked with ice, the navigation frequently remains open up to this point. Opposite the town is the small fortified island of Kaholm, with the Oscarsborg, to the W. of which (on the right) is the peninsula of Hudrum. On the latter lies Slottet, a posting- station, from which a hilly road leads to S'vel'vig on the Drammens- fjord. Drebak and the next stations Hoidsten (500 inhab.) and Soon (700 inhab.) are frequently visited for the sake of the sea- bathing. Opposite Soon, on the W. bank of the fjord, which now expands to a considerable width, and from which the Drammens- fjord diverges here to the N., lies Holmestrand, see p.31. Beyond Soon the small steamers usually steer to the 8., through the strait and canal which separate the Gjelle from the E. bank of the fjord, to—- 8 M. (52 Kil.) Moss (Reinsch’s Hotel; Moss Hotel; Hotel Skeien, by the bridge), a small town and sea-bathing place, with 4800 in- hab., where the treaty which terminated the war between Norway and Sweden was signed on 14th Aug. 1814. Opposite Moss, on the W. bank of the fjord, is —— ‘ 8 M. (52 Kil.) Horten (two hotels), or Karl-Johansva'm, with 6000 inhab., prettily situated, the headquarters of the Norwegian fleet. The rich vegetation of the upper part of the fjord is now left behind, and the coast becomes more bleak and rocky. A little to the S. of Horten lies Aasgaardstrand, beyond which is —— 10 M. (64 Kil.) Valle, a small town with a large pasteboard- manufactory, where the larger coasting steamers touch frequently. 38 Route 5. LANGES UND. We next pass through the Tensbergs Canal to Tensberg (p. 31). — Beyond Tonsberg our route passes the Nottere and Tjema, to the S.E. of which rises the lofty Lille Farder Lighthouse, which marks the entrance to the Christiania Fjord. The steamer then rounds the "promontory of Tensbergs Tende, which has gained an unpleasant notoriety as the scene of numerous shipwecks, and passes the mouth of the Sandefjord, at the head of which lies the small town of Sandefjord (p. 32). ' 17 M. (108 Kil.) Laurvik, see p. 32. The steamer then steers to the S. to Fredrilcsva’rn, at the mouth of the Laurvilc/‘jord, with about 1200 inhab. and formerly the station of the Norwegian fleet. -— Crossing the mouth of the Langesunds—Fjord, which is unpro- tected by islands, the steamer next stops at —- 19 M. (121 Kil.) Langesund (Inn), with 1100 inhab., which lies at the entrance to an important water-highway leading into the heart of Thelemarken. FROM LANGESUND TO Ponsonunn AND SKIEN, 29 Kil. (18 Engl. M.), steamboat daily in 3 hrs. — About 1/2 hr. after leaving Langesund we reach Brevik (Johnsen’s Hotel), a small town with 2300 inhab., charmingly situated at the S.E. extremity of the rocky peninsula that separates the Eidangerfjord from the Friersflord. Opposite, to the S., lies the little town of Stathelle. Our route then traverses the Friersfjord to (3/4 hr.) Porsgrund (p. 33) and ascends the Skienselv to (3/4 hr.) Skten (p. 33). After leaving Langesund the course of the steamer is un- protected by islands for some distance. The smaller steamers then pass through the *Langesunds— K reppa (i . e. ‘strait‘), or Langaarsund, a very narrow channel between lofty and picturesque rocks, while the larger vessels steer through a wider passage inside the island of Jomfruland, on which stands a lighthouse. 22M. (141 Kil.) Kragere (Hotel Hamburg; Germania; Kragero Hotel), with 4800 inhab., situated on a peninsula opposite the small island of that name, carries on a considerable trade in tim- ber, iron-ore, apatite, ice, and oysters. 1n the neighbouring island of Lango are iron-mines of some value, and near Kragere are ex- tensive deposits of apatite, a mineral consisting chiefly of phos- phate of lime, largely used by manufacturers of artificial manures. Between Kragere and Risoer the coast is unprotected by islands. 24 M. (153 Kil.) Zster-Risoer (Gade’s Hotel), with 2600 inhab., is another small trading town. The islands again become more numerous. Some of the steamers next touch at Boreen, an island 3 M. from Riseer, and others at (28 Dyngeen or Haven, about 1 M. farther, from which a small steamer runs frequently to Tvede- strand (1-11/2 hr.; see below). Beyond Haven, a prettily situated place, the steamer enters the Tromasund, a strait between the mainland and the considerable island of Tromo, and soon enters the excellent harbour of ~— 30 M. (191 Kil.) Arendal (*Schnurbusch’s Hotel; Serensen’s), a ship-building and trading town of considerable importance (4500 in- hab.), prettily situated near the mouth of the'Nidelv, and possessing. CHRISTIANSAND. 6. Route. 39 one of the largest commercial fleets in Norway. At the country- house of Tangen, belonging to Consul Kellevig, is a large magnolia, which blossoms every summer. One of the chief approaches to THELEMARKEN is by the road leading from Arendal via Tvedestrand (p. 38) and Rt'sland (49 Kil., 30 Engl. M.) to the Nisservand (comp. p. 35). Another road leads direct to Rustdalen, whence we cross the Nelougvand to Simona-tad and proceed thence to Ris- land (40 Kil. or 25 Engl. M.). Soon after leaving Arendal the steamer traverses the Galte- sund, between the Trome and the Hise, and passes the two light- houses known as Tort'tngerne. The next stations are —- 33 M. Grimstad (Meller’s Hotel), with 1780 inhab., and -— 35 M. (223 Kil.) Lillesand (Guldbrandsen), with 1420 inhab- 39 M. (249 Kil.) Christiansand (see below). 6. Christiansand and Environs. The Saetersdal. Hotels. *EENs'r‘s HOTEL, Strandgade, close to the steamboat-pier and the custom-house (German landlord), D. 2 kr. 40 5.; "BRITANNIA, at the corner of the Markedsgade and Dronningensgade, 4 min. from the landing- place, more reasonable; SKANDINAVIA, Dronningensgade, nearly opposite the Britannia, small and unpretending. BoA'r to or from the steamboats, the larger of which do not lay to at the pier, 13 9!. for each person, 7 of. for each trunk. PORTERAGE from the landing-place to the custom-house 20 o. for each trunk; from the custom-house, or from the landing-place, to one of the three hotels, 33 e. for each trunk. Posr AND TELEGRAPH OFFICE in the Strandgade,5 min. from the hotels. SEA BATHS adjoining the Ottero, a small island at the E. end of the Strandgade (ferry 3 6.), reserved for ladies 10s12a.m. (bath 40 13.). Warm and Shower Baths adjoining the public gardens, near the church (40-60 15.). STEAMERS to Christiania daily, to Stavanger' and Bergen almost daily, to Throndhjem 4 times weekly, to Tromse 3 times, to Hammerfest twice, and to the North Cape, Varder, and Vadse once weekly. Also to Gothen- burg fortnightly, to Fredm'kshavn in Denmark 3 times weekly, to Copen- hagen weekly, to Hamburg twice weekly, to London fortnightly, to Hall weekly, and to Leith fortnightly. Small local steamers ply daily to Ronene and Been on the Topdalselv, and to Mosby on the Otteraa. Christiansand, with 12,000 inhab., the largest town on the S. coast of Norway and the residence of a bishop, is beautifully situ- ated at the mouth of the Otteraa, or Torrisdalselv, von the Christian- sand Fjord, the prolongation of which, running inland towards the N., is called the Topdalsfjord. The town is named after Christian IV., by whom it was founded in 1641. It possesses an excellent harbour, at which all the coasting steamers and others from England, Germany, and Denmark touch regularly. The broad and regular streets with their low, timber-built houses present an exceedingly dull appearance, as the town is thinly peopled in proportion to its area. Almost every house, however, is gaily ‘embellished with window-plants , on which the inmates usually bestow great care. The only buildings worthy of mention are the : Cathedral, a handsome edifice of the 17th'cent. (recently burned down), adjoining which is'a small Park, the-new Cathedral Skole, 40 Route 6. CHRISTIANSAND. and the Bank-Bygning. In the streets nearest the harbour and the hotels are several good shops. The beer and spirit-shops are few in number, and belong, as in many other Norwegian towns, to a company, whose profits, after payment of 5 per cent to its mem- bers, are handed to the municipality. ENVIRONS. The situation of Christiansand is picturesque, and a day or two may be pleasantly devoted to excursions in the en— virons. One of the favourite walks (1 hr. there and back) is on the Otte're, a rocky and partially wooded island at the E. end of the Strandgade, about 8 min. from the hotels (ferry 3 0.). The baths (p. 39) are reached. by a path turning to the right a few paces from the ferry. The path in a straight direction passes the Seamen’s Hospital and leads round the whole island (40 min.), commanding beautiful views of the town and fjord. -— On the Mandal road, on the W. side of the town, 1/4 hr. from the hotels, lies the pretty Cemetery. Immediately opposite to it (to the right) is a path ascending the hill and leading to the (10 min.) Raonedal, a wooded and grassy dale, at the upper end of which (10 min.) there is a point of view reached by a flight of wooden steps. Descending thence on the W. side of the dale, and passing a fountain , a pond, and a house where refreshments may be obtained, we regain (1/4 hr.) the Mandal road and (10 min.) the cemetery (a walk of 11/4-11/2 hr. in all). — On the N. side of the town, at the mouth of the Otteraa (1/4 hr.), is the landing-stage of the small steamers which ply on that river. A rocky hill near it affords a good survey of the environs. At the mouth of the river, on the opposite bank, rises the church of Oddernces, to which a wooden bridge crosses. —- About 10 Kil. up the river is Mosby, to which the steamer plies daily in an hour; 10 Kil. farther to the N., near the Vennesland station, is the Gaard Vigland, near which are the Hundsfosse and the Het'vedesfos, picturesque waterfalls, to which the traveller may drive from Ohristiansand in 21/2-3 hrs. —— A steamer plies twice daily between Ghristiansand, Ronene, and Boen on the Topdalselv, traversing the Topdalsfjord, a pleasant excursion of 21/2-3 hrs., there and back. ——- A trip by boat may be taken to the (10 Kil.)lighthouse on the Owe. Farther to the S.W. is the lighthouse'of Ny-Hellesund, where L. von Back, the celebrated German geologist, spent a considerable time in 1807, while waiting for a vessel to Denmark, which was then at war with England. Fnon CHRISTIANSAND 'ro EKERSUND (200 Kil. or 124 Eng]. M.). A good, but hilly road, running near the coast, and crossing several fer- ries, leads from Christiansand to Ekersund, traversing beautiful scenery nearly the whole way. Almost all the stations on the route are ‘fast’, the most important being (44 Kil.) Mandal, (62 Kil.) Fedde, (59 Kil.) Eide, and (34151.) Ekersund (p. 44), at each of which good accommodation is obtain- able, but the others are poor. The steamboats perform the voyage to Eker- sund in 12-15 hrs., while the journey by land, which very few travellers undertake,‘ occupies 84 days. If time permit, however. the traveller will ‘be rewarded by driving at least as far as Mandal (p. 43), where steamers S/ETERSDAL . 6. Route. 41 bound for Stavanger and Bergen touch almost daily; or he may continue his journey thence to (52 Kil.) Far-sand .(p. 44), where the steamers also call. The Seetersdal. A visit from Ohristiansand to the Soetersdal, a valley running to the N., 238 Kil. (148 Eng]. M.) in length, watered by the Ot- te'raa, abounding in picturesque scenery and quaint old dwelling-houses, and remarkable for the primitive character of the inhabitants, involves some privations and occupies 10-12 days (there and back). As most of the stations, exceedingly poor at all times, are almost deserted in the height of summer,_when the inhabitants are engaged in pasturing their cattle among the mountains (‘paa Heja’), the traveller should endeavour to visit the valley either before 24th June or after 15th August, between which dates it is difficult to obtain horses, guides, or even food. The journey as far as Breive is accomplished by Stolkjeerre, by steamboat, and (the two last stages) on horseback or foot. Travellers bound for Berggn are recommended to proceed from Breive to the Suledal , Reldat (p. , and Odde (p. 64) on the Hardanger Fjord; while those bound for Kongsberg or Christiania leave the Seetersdal at Valle and traverse the interesting lake-district of Thelemarken (RR. 2, 3, 4). — Visitors to the Seetersdal should travel with the smallest possible quantity of luggage, and had better be provided with a moderate supply of preserved meat, biscuits, and brandy. Oarrioles may be had at Ohristiansand, but at all the other stations the less comfortable Stolkjeerre is used. Fast stations as far as Sogneskar: 17 a. per horse and car per kilometre. 1. DAY. Drive to (10 Kil.) Mosby (to which a steamer also plies on the Otteraa, p.40), (17 Kil., pay for 22) +Rez'ersdal, and (13 Kil., pay for 17) Kile, at the S. end of the Kileflord, Where an *Inn is kept by the captain of the lake steamer. II. DAY. By steamer in 2 hrs. to Faret or Fennefos, at the N. end of the Kz‘lefjord, which is 25 Kil. in length. Drive to (12 Kil.) +Guldsmedm0en, or Senum, at the S. end of the Byglandsfiord, a lake about 40 Kil. long, consisting of two parts, separated by a short river (the Otteraa), with locks to facilitate navigation. The lower lake, sometimes called the Aa-r- dalsvand, extends as far as (28 Kil.) Stremmen, about 6 Kil. above Noes; the upper, beyond the locks, 14 Kil. long, terminates a little below Ose. If the state of the water permits, small steamers ply 4-5 times weekly between Senum and Ose (in 4 hrs.), but passengers are sometimes landed at +Noes (2 hrs.). The traveller may therefore have to drive from Nees to (17 Kil.) Ose; or, if the steamer does not suit, the whole way from Senum to (42 Kil.) Ose; or possibly the whole way from Kile to (63 Kil.) +0se, near the church of fiz'estad. Gunnar Drengse'n‘s quaint old house at Ose affords good quarters (small collection of national costumes, etc.). DAY. Drive to (20 Kil.) +Helle z‘ Hyttestad (tolerable quarters), from which a fatiguing mountain-track leads to the (79 Kil.) Lysefjord (p. 47), near Stavanger (2 days; guide desirable, 12—14 kr.). Drive from Helle to (20 Kil.) +Sogneska'rz' Valle (a fair station; accommodation at Mme. Sundal’s), situated in the heart of the Seetersdal. The bottom of the valley is tolerably well cultivated, but the surrounding hills are ex- tremely barren. The Gam'd Rz'get, adjoining the church, contains an in- teresting collection of antiquities. Before reaching Aakre, alittle farther on, it is worth while descending to the river to inspect the curious Jwt- tegryder, or ‘giant cauldrons‘, 6-8 ft. deep, which have been formed by the action of the water. On the opposite bank lies Omh'd, whence a moun- tain-track, soon uniting with that from Hyllestad, leads to the Lysefiord (79 Kil.; 2 days; guide advisable, 12-14 kr.). — From Aakre a rough bridle-path, called the Bispevet', leads to the E. to (9-10 hrs.) the road between Moland on the Fyfisvand, about 11 Kil. to the S., and Veum, a hamlet 11 Kil. to the N., a little beyond which is the Haugene station (comp. p. 35; horse and man from Aakre to Veum about 14 kr.). —— Beyond Aakre the Saetersdal road narrows to a bridle-path. Sogneskar, as already mentioned, is the last fast station. IV. DAY; Ride or walk from Sogneskar to (17 Kil.) Bjemeraa, and shence to (6 Kil.) Trydal and (5 Kil.) Bykle (accommodation at Ole Deng- tfln‘s) by a good new road. The *Byklem', a. dangerous-looking path skirt- 42 Route 6. CHRISTIANSAND. ing a precipice overhanging the river, formerly afforded the only means of communication between Valle and the ‘Annexkirke‘ of Bykle. The Byklevand, a small lake, is crossed by boat at the end of this stage. DAY. Ride or walk about 37 Kil., and then row up the Ha/rtevand, a lake 8 Kil. long, to Breive or Bret'dvik, at the head of the Ssetersdal, a lonely gaard , picturesquely situated, and affording rough, but tolerable accommodation. The traveller may proceed from Breive in one day to M0 or to Vinje in Thelemarken (p. 27). —- Or, leaving Breive at a very early hour, he may cross the imposing Meienfjeld (4000 ft.) to Jo-rdbrwkke in the Suledal, about 34 Kil., and thence go on to Roaldkvam on the Suledalsvand, 6 Kil. farther, a rough and fatiguing walk or ride of 10—12 hrs. (comp. p. 48). ~— The traveller may now proceed direct to the Hardanger Fjord thus: row to Ga'utetun or Nazs (about 6 Kil.), on the N. bank of the Suledals- vand, a very picturesque lake, 28 Kil. long (p. 48), ride or walk thence to (22 Kil.) Batten on the Reldalsvand, and row to (7 Kil.) Her-re (1 pers. 1 kr. 40, 2pers. 2 kr. 20, 3pers. 2 kr. 8016., 4 pers. 3kr.) or to (10 Kil.) Raldal, whence the journey to (46 Kil.) ()dde is easily accomplished in a day (see p. 30). — Those bound for Stavangcr row to (17 Kil.) Vaage, on the N. bank of the Suledalsvand, walk or ride by a very picturesque path to (6 Kil.) Hylen on the Hylsfjord (steamer to Stavanger fortnightly in til/2 hrs.), and proceed thence by water to (22 Kil.) Sand (steamer to Stavanger weekly in 5 hrs); or they may row from Roaldkvam to Fiskekjen or Moen, at the S.W. end of the lake, passing through a picturesque strait known as ‘Porten’, and drive thence to ('12 Kil.) Fos and (11 Kil.) Sand (see p. 48). —— The Suledalsvand is well worthy of a visit, and the walk from Vaage to Hylen, or the drive from Moen to Sand, is picturesque (comp. p. 48); but most travellers will find it more convenient to proceed from Nees northwards to Odde, where a steamboat touches three times weekly. 7. From Christiansand to Stavanger. Excursions from Stavanger. 32 M. (205 Kil. or 127 Engl. M.). STEAMBOAT almost daily in 18-20 hrs. (usual fare 110 or 25 a. per sea-mile). As the voyage is often very rough, particularly the latter part, from Ekersund to Stavanger, many travellers prefer taking their passage to Ekersund only (12 hrs. from Christiansand), and proceeding thence to Stavanger by railway. Passengers with through- tickets to Bergen or elsewhere may also land at Ekersund, take the train to Stavanger, and there rejoin the steamboat, on board of which they may leave their luggage. In this case they are entitled to repayment of the steamboat-fare between these two stations. If the traveller does not intend making any stay at Stavanger, he should of course enquire if one of the trains from Ekersund starts soon enough to enable him to over- take the steamer. RAILWAY FROM EKERSUND T0 STAVANGER (77 Kil., or 48 Engl. M.) in 31/4 hrs. 20 min. (fares 4 kr., 2 kr. 20 9.; no third class). Two trains daily. Special trains may be ordered. —- As the carriages are not pro- vided with spring-buffers, passengers often experience a series of un- pleasant shocks at starting and drawing up. This is a narrow-gauge line, the rails] being only 31/2 ft. apart. The voyage from Christiansand to Stavanger by the LARGE STEAMERS presents comparatively few attractions, as the coast is very imperfectly seen from the steamboat, but the entrance to the Flekkefjord and some other points are very imposing. The vessel’s course is at places protected by islands (Skjazr), but is often en- tirely without such shelter, particularly between Ekersund and Stavanger, a voyage of 5-6 hrs., where the water is rarely quite MANDAL. 7. Route. 43 smooth. The small LOCAL STEAMERs are of course much slower and call at a great many unimportant stations, but they afford a good view of the curious and interesting formations of the coast. The coast-line is broken by numerous valleys descending from the ‘Opland’ and terminating in long and deep fjords. These valleys are usually watered by rivers which frequently expand into lakes, and they afford a means of communication between the Kystfolk, or dwellers on the coast, and the Oplandsfolk, who differ widely from their seafaring and trading countrymen in character, dialect, and costume. As most of these valleys, all the way from Christiania to Stavanger, radiate from the mountains in the interior of the country as a common centre, it is to them that the fanciful resemblance of Norway to a pancake with split edges most aptly applies. At the head of these valleys, which seldom offer any attraction to the tourist, and barely even the necessaries of life, lie huge tracts of barren mountains , spreading out into vast and rarely trodden table - lands (Fjeld'vidder), and very rarely culminating in peaks or distinct summits. The b'are rock-scenery of the coast is enlivened by a few unimportant fishing and trading towns nestling in the recesses of the fjords, and by an occasional forge for the smelting of ore brought down from the interior. One of the principal branches of trade is the export of mackerel and lobsters to England. The former are packed in ice, while the latter are put alive into tanks (Brande) in the vessels constructed for the purpose, to which the sea-water has free access. If the sea is moderately rough the lobsters rise and fall with the motion of the vessel, and arrive in good condition; but if it is too smooth they sink to the bottom of the tank and crush each other to death. Another native product of considerable value consists of the nu- merous plovers’ (Vibe) eggs found on the moors and sandhills of Jazderen, near Ekersund. -— As mentioned in the preceding route, the journey from Christiansand to Ekersund and Stavanger may be performed by land the whole way, and the scenery is exceed- ingly fine at many places; but most travellers will find the steam- boat more convenient. -— The first steamboat-station (reckoning in sea-miles from Christiansand) is -— 5 M. (32 Kil.) Mandal ( Olsen’s Hotel, Nat'vig’s), the southernmost town in Norway, with 4000 inhab., consisting of Mandal, Malme, and Kleven, and situated partly on rocky islands. As the harbour is situated at the last of these places, the station is frequently called Kleoene (‘the cliffs’). The Mandalsel'v, which falls into the fjord here, descends through a valley parallel to the Saetersdal and through several lakes from the Aaseral, the upper part of the valley, 37 Engl. M. distant, adistrict inhabited by a very primitive pastoral people. In summer they migrate to the neighbouring mountains (tilfjelds or tilheis; Heia signifying mountain-pasture), where they spend several [months in their miserably poor Feelazger, and are not 44 Route 7. EKERSUND. From Christiansand unfrequently attacked by bears. To the W. of the valley of the Mandalselv are the parallel Undal and Lyngdal valleys. Beyond Mandal the steamer passes the mouth of the Undalselo and the conspicuous lighthouse on Cape Lindesnees (formerly Lin- dandisnces, Engl. Naze, Dutch Te'r Neuzc), 160 ft. in height. The part of Norway to the E. of an imaginary line drawn from Cape Lindesnaes to the peninsula of Stadt (p. 167) is called Sendenfieldske or Q'stenfjeldske Norge, that to the W. Vestenfjeldske Norge. The promontory is united with the mainland by the low Spangereid. 11 M. (70 Kil.) Farsund (Hotel), a small seaport with 1500 inhab., situated near the mouth of a fjord running inland in three long ramifications, into the easternmost of which falls the Lyngdals- elv. — Having now passed the southernmost part of the Norwegian coast, extending from Ghristiansand to Farsund, the steamboat steers towards the N., skirting the district of Lister, with its light- house, passes the mouth of the Feddefjord on the right, and enters the Ftekkefjord, at the head of which lies — 16 M. (102 Kil.) Flekkefjord (Wahl’s Hotel), a prettily situated seaport with 1700 inhab. and a sheltered harbour. To the S.E. lies (‘71/2 Engl. Fedde (p. 40) on the fjord of that name, into which the Koinesdal descends from the N.E., and to the N. runs the Sire- dal, with the Siredalsvand, a lake 17 Engl. M. long, the outlet of which falls into the Lundevand, a long lake to the W. of the Flek- kefjord. — A little beyond the mouth of the Lundevand, from which the Sim empties itself into the sea in the form of a cascade, is -— 17 M. (108 Kil.) Rcegefjord, the station for Sogndal (Sluhoug’s Hotel), about 3 Engl. M. inland, in the neighbourhood of which are several iron-mines. 19 M. (121 Kil.) Ekersund, or Egersund (*Ellingsen’s Hotel, on the right, 4 min. from the pier and 8 min. from the railway- station, unpretending, R. 1, D. ‘l kr.; *Jwderen, kept by Daniel- son, a similar house, in the market near the station, also on the right), a town with 2400 inhab. and a porcelain factory, lies in a singularly bleak and rocky region, at the S. end of Jazderen, the flat coast-district extending between this point and Stavanger. An excellent survey of the environs is obtained from the rocky hill at the back of Ellingsen’s Inn, with a pole on the summit, reached in 25 min. by traversing a narrow street opposite the rail- way-station, and ascending to the right past the cemetery and a farm-house. To the N. stretches Jaederen, almost the only extensive coast-plain in Norway, partially cultivated, but chiefly consisting of moor and sand—hills, where plovers’ eggs are found in great quantities, and intersected with a network of rocky dykes which were probably formed by glacier-action. The railway—station is on the N. side of the town, 12 min. from the quay. The RAILWAY FROM EKERSUND T0 STAVANGER (see p. 42), which traverses this coast-plain, presents little attraction , the scenery i, .- 1 q 7‘ r v '. 7' - i ‘ > ' V > * ‘g V - . < , _ _ . . v \ a . v . Q» .~ . . , . I. , l t , , - a)‘ > n ‘ , > t ‘ \ I _ ‘ .- ~ u , 4 , I ' H . . , l. . u . . ' ' "i . I. , ‘ ' ' 1 ' ‘ ‘ t v " ‘ v v ‘ ' v ‘ I -‘ . Q . _' s ‘ v . 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(.I ‘I ., . i '_ . \ o . > I . v , ‘ \ .. . . . 1 ~ . t x Q _ a n , ‘ V a ‘it ‘t - , ‘ "a "_ I‘ J‘ l‘ _' ‘ w t ' .I V “ ‘ _ r ‘ _ l “ I J ‘ o, O’ I.) ‘ . t .‘ ‘ ' . ,0’ ‘ r I ~ ‘\ y 1 I ._ . g f \ ,vr ‘ I,’ ,. if. ‘i ‘w ‘ ’ ~ - ‘ l '_ ‘Ab - _ ' _ ‘I, r ‘p. u I : ~ ; . - l ' , 4 .' ,1 ' . 1:500.000 1 l r l I t \ » “I I. i, Q I‘ . \ a ‘34mm; ‘ ;. :u‘flfltd.‘ “ill . lMli' ffhjlmm ; 3 x ‘\o I ~ .Emtté Ii l | A i I 1 | ‘1 u t "a I l i 1 I > i i G (- ograpli. Anstalt Von to Stavanger. STAVANGER. 7. Route. 45 being very dreary as far as Sandnazs, but is far preferable to the steamboat, especially if the traveller is liable to sea-sickness. The chief stations are (38 Kil.) Nwrbe, (62 Kil.) Sandnass, prettily situated at the head of the Stavanger Eio'rd (comp. the Map), and (77 Kil.) Stavanger. The STEAMBOAT on leaving Ekersund passes the Ekere, a large island protecting the harbour, with a lofty lighthouse, and the picturesque Vibe'rudde, a promontory with another lighthouse. The .coast is flat and dreary, and the water generally rough owing to the strong currents and violent gales by which it is frequently agitated. The Skjaergaard, or belt of islands, now disappears for about 30 Engl. M. The steamer steers towards the N., passing the Jcederens Rev (‘reef’), a sandy promontory forming the westernmost point of Jaederen, and the mouth of the Hafrsfjord, where Harald Haarfagre (‘fair hair’) gained a decisive naval victory in 872, which gave him the sovereignty of the whole country, and which released him from a vow, taken ten years previously, not to cut his hair until he should be king of all Norway. A little farther on, the vessel turns to the E., traverses a branch of the Bukkenfijord, and passes the Tungenazs, a promontory with a lighthouse, forming the N. extremity of the peninsula in which Jaederen terminates. It then steers towards the S.E., and soon reaches the town of Stavanger. 32 M. (206 Kil.) Stavanger (*Hotel du Nord, 10 min. from the station and from the principal quay, R. 2, B. 1%, D. 2, S. 1 kr. 20 0., L. and A. 80 2.; *Jespe-rsen’s Hotel, nearer the quay; Nielsen, near Jespersen’s; Holt, Kirkegaden. British viceconsul, Mr. H. W. S. Hansen; American, Mr. T. S. Falck; there are also a French, a German, and a Russian consul. Nymann’s sea-baths). an important commercial town, with 20,000 inhab'., picturesquely situated on a branch of the B'ukkenfjord, possesses two harbours, Vaagen, facing the N.W., and Hslervaagen, a smaller bay separated from the other by a peninsula called Holmen, on which rises Val- bjerget, an eminence commanding a fine view. The town is one of the most ancient in Norway, dating from the 8th or 9th century, but as it has suffered very frequently from fires it now presents quite a modern appearance. Many of the houses are now built of stone. At the upper end of the Vaag lies the Torn or market- place , beyond which rises the Cathedral, and near the Bstervaag is the modern Petrikirke. Fish is the staple commodity of the place, and the herrings, which for a time had almost entirely de- serted this part of the coast, have of late re-appeared. The * CATHEDRAL, the most interesting building in Stavanger, and the finest church in Norway after the cathedral of Throndhjem, was founded by Bishop Reinald , an English prelate, at the end of the 11th cent. and dedicated to St.- Swithin (Suetonius , Bishop of Winchester, d. 862). It is about 250 ft. in length , and 70 ft. in width. In 1272 the church was burned down, but it was soon after- 46 Route 7. STAVANGER. Excursions.‘ wards rebuilt in the Gothic style. After the Reformation it was sadly disfigured by alterations, but since 18661it has been restored as far as possible to its original condition. The nave is separated from the aisles by massive pillars of early Norman or Byzantine character, which belong apparently to the original edifice. The handsome Gothic Choir, which adjoins the nave without the inter- vention of a transept, probably dates from the 13th century. The choir is flanked with four towers, two at the E. end, and two smaller ones at the W. end, and terminates in a large and effective E. Window. The great Tower of the W. facade of the church is in ruins. On each side of the church are two handsome Portals, one entering the aisle, and another the choir. The Pulpit (Prcedi- kestol) of the 11th cent. and the ancient Font (Debefont) are also worthy of inspection. —- The Munkelcirke, a kind of chapel adjoining the cathedral, is now a school. The neighbouring Kongsgaard, once the residence of the bishop, whose seat was transferred to Ohristiansand at the end of the 17th cent., is now occupied by the Latinskole, with a handsome old Chapel. On the banks of the adjacent Bred'vand, a small lake, are pleasant promenades. To the N. of the cathedral are the Brand'vagt, formerly the Marienkirke, the Hotel du Nord, and the Sparbanlc, or savings-bank, the building of which contains the picture-gallery of the Kunst- forening (open Wed. and Sun., 11-1). In the opposite direction, about 7 min. from the cathedral, is the Railway Station. -——Ascending the Pedersbakke, we may next glance at the modern Petrikirke, and crossing the Nytoro, visit the Spilderhaug Docks, beyond which lies the Hetlandsmarlc with the Vor Fruekirke. Abeautiful Walla may be taken to the Belvedere Tower ( Udsigt- staarn) on Vaald'ndspiben, to the S.W., and another to the Ullen- hauge, farther to the W. , at the foot of which are a famous Fish- breeding Establishment (Fiskeudltlwknings—Apparater; trifling fee for admission) and Hanson’s Willow Plantation (Pileplantning). The road to the Parodies, a pretty private garden, affords a good view of the harbour. An interesting Excursion may be taken to Sole, a village on the W. coast of Jaederen, about 8Engl. M. to the S.W., with aruined church, where the peculiar character of this coast may be inspected. We may then return by the E. bank of the Hafrsfiord (p. 45), cross from Gaard Meling to Malde, and regain the town by another road. Excursions from Stavanger. Stavanger is the commercial centre of the district of Ryfylke and the numerous islands of the extensive Bukkenflord, which is bounded on the W. by the Karma, and on the N. by the long peninsula of which Hauge- sand forms the westernmost point. The name Bukkenfjord applies to the more open part in the centre of the bay, the chief ramifications of which‘ are the Stavanger or Gans Eiord, the Helefr'ord, and the Lgsefiord on the S., the Hjersenflord on the E., and the Sandsfjord (dividing into the Hylsfjord and Saudeflord), the Sandeidfiord (with its ramifications the Excursions. LYSEFJORD. 7. Route. 47 Vz'ndefjord and l’rkefjord), and the Grindejfiord on the N. -— Most of these fjords are in the form of narrow ravines several miles in length, bounded by the lofty and precipitous mountains rising abruptly from the water, at the foot of which lie deposits of debris at rare intervals, affording but scanty space for the dwellings of the sparse population of the district. At places, however, the banks are of a flatter character and well culti- vated, presenting a smiling and picturesque contrast to the forest with which the lower slopes are generally clothed, and to the frowning rocks and glistening snow of the higher mountains in the background. The scenery of several of these fjords vies with the finest parts of the Har- danger Fjord, but is less accessible and therefore less frequently visited by travellers. The magnificent Lysefjord (see below) is unfortunately sel- dom accessible except by rowing-boat, but the Sandsfjord, with its pic— turesque ramifications, and the Sandeidjfiord are regularly visited by steamers from Stavanger (see below). STEAMBOATS. An outline of the present arrangements will give the traveller a general idea of the principal routes, but no plan can be finally settled until the most recent ‘Communicationer‘ have been carefully con- sulted. The steamers to the Hardanger Fjord and to Bergen are not men- tioned here, as they merely cross the Bukkenfjord without penetrating into any of its recesses. To SAND on the SANDSFJORD on Monday and Thursday forenoons; the Monday boat goes on to Sande on the Saudefjord, whence it starts for Stavanger on Tuesday mornings; the other boat goes on from Sand to Hylen on the Hg/lsfjord on alternate Thursdays, and returns (both from Hylen and from Sand) to Stavanger on the same day. These boats touch at Joelse (p. 48), both in going and returning. To SANDEID on the SANDEIDFJORD on Monday and Thursday forenoons; the Monday boat returns the same day, the other on Friday morning, the former touching at Jcclser on the way back, the latter on the way out only. Travellers may proceed direct from Sand (or Hylen, see above).to Sandeid by changing boats at Jcelsa on Thursday afternoon; in the reverse direction they may proceed direct from Sandeid to Sand and Saude by changing boats at J aelsg on Monday afternoon. A. The Lysefjord. An excursion from Stavanger to the Lysefjord, the grandest fjord on the S.W. coast of Norway, occupies 2-3 days, and is attended with some fatigue and privation, unless, as sometimes happens, an excursion steamer runs to Lyse and back in one day. There are no good inns or stations on the route, and the row up the fjord and back takes 7-8 hrs. each way. A small steamer sometimes plies between Stavanger and Halo on the Helefjord (a steam of 2 hrs); or the traveller may take the train to Sandnws (p. 45; 1/2 hr.), and drive thence to ('28 Kil.) Hale (3-4 hrs.), where tolerable quarters may be procured. Here we hire a boat with two or more rowers (15-20 kr. for the whole excursion) and cross the Helefjord to (6 Kil.) Gjese or Fossan, at the entrance to the Lysefjord, on the S. side, where we may visit a large moraine which led Esmark, a Norwegian savant, about the year 1821 , to the conjecture that the whole country was once- covered with glaciers. (See Forbes’s Norway, Edin., 1853; p. 239.) We then enter the *Lysefjord, a wild and almost deserted arm of the sea, 700-@2000 yds’. in width, 23 Engl. M. long, and at places1400 ft. in depth, and‘ enclosed by precipitous rocky mountains upwards of 48 Route 7. . SAND. Excursions 3000 ft. high. At the head of the fjord lies the hamlet of Lyse (poor quarters), surrounded by imposing rocks, a little to the N. of which rises the Lyseham (4500 ft.). A curious and unexplained phenomenon is sometimes observed here. A crashing noise like thunder is heard, immediately after which a gleam of light flashes horizontally over the surface of the fjord, disappearing halfway across. The noise and light are believed to proceed from a kind of cavern in the face of the rock about 2000 ft. above the fjord, and inaccessible except by means of ropes from the top of the mountain. A similar phenomenon is said to have been observed on the Trolgjel near Gaarden Molaup on the Jerundfjord (p. 172). (See Vibe’s ‘Meer und Kiisten Norwegens’, Gotha, 1860.) From Lyse to Helle in the Saetersdal, a very rough and fatiguing walk of two days, see p. 41. B. The Sandsfjord, Hylsfjord, and Saudefjord. As above mentioned , two steamers weekly run from Stavanger to Sand on the Sandsfjord, one of which goes weekly to Sande, the other fortnightly to Hylen. One of these vessels touches at the islands Talge, Finde (where several of the inhabitants of Stavanger possess pleasant villas), and Stjarnere, and at Ncerstrand at the mouth of the Sandeidfjord (p. 149); while the other calls at Tau (15 Kil. to the N.E. of Stavanger; path thence past the Bjereim- wand and the Tysdalsvand to Bergeland in the Aardal; 6 Kil. above Bergeland is the picturesque Hjaafos), Fister, and Hjelme— land on the mainland. Between Tau and Fister we cross the mouth of the Aardalsfjord, which is visited by the Tuesday boat from Sand to Stavanger. Hjelmeland lies at the mouth of the Hjesenfjord, a long inlet somewhat resembling the Lysefjord in character. From the head of that fjord a rough and fatiguing route crosses the mountains in 2 days to Valle in the Sastersdal (p. 41). Both steamers touch at Jaelse or Jelser (Inn) on the mainland (31/2 hrs. from Stavanger), at the mouth of the Sandsfjord, a village of some importance, with a church and an excellent harbour, where travellers desirous of proceeding direct from Sand to Sandeid, or in the reverse direction, change boats (see p. 47). We now enter the 8andsfjord, and in 11/2 hr. more reach —— Sand (*Andersen’s Inn, unpretending), at the mouth of the Logen-Elv, which descends from the Suledalsvand, 22 Kil. distant. The *Suledalsvand, a most picturesque lake, 30 Kil. long, enclosed by imposing mountains, is well worthy of a visit. [A steamer is to be placed on the lake in summer.) A good road leads from Sand to (10 Kil.) Fos and (12 Kil.) Fiskekjen or M0, at the SW. end of the lake. Taking a boat there, we row up the lake, passing (after 6 Kil.) through *Porten, a grand and narrow defile, to Vaage, about 15 Kil. from Mo. About 12 Kil. farther to the N., also on the W. bank of the Suledalsvand, lies Noes or Gautetun, whence a bridle-path leads to (5 hrs.) Botten on the Reldalsvand (p. 28). A new road from Nees to Botten, ascending the picturesque valley of the Store Elf, is now in progress. Room for it has been made at places by blasting the rock. from Stavanger. SANDEID. 7. Route. 49 The route from Stavanger to the Hardanger via the Suledalsvand, Naes , and Reldal has deservedly come into much favour during the last few years. Heavy luggage may be sent from Stavanger to Odde, or to Bergen, by direct steamer. Guide across the Rsldaltjeld desirable (Samson Ericsen Fz'skekje'n of Suledal may be recommended; from Sand to Reldal 7, to Odde 10 kr.). —— At the head of the Suledalsvand, 3 Kil. from Naes, lies Roaldkvam (tolerable quarters), whence Breive in the Saetersdal (p. 42) or Grytz'ng in the Roldal (p. 30) may be reached in one day. Once a ‘ fortnight a steamer goes on from Sand into the Hyls- fjord, an eastern ramification of the Sandsfjord, reaching Hylen at the head of the fjord in 1% hr. more (61/2 hrs. from Stavanger). From Hylen to Vaage on the Suledalsvand (see above), a very pictur- esque walk of 11/2-2 hrs., crossing the lofty Hylsska-r, where we stand on a narrow ridge, a few feet only in width, and enjoy a magnificent view of the lake below. A steamer goes on once weekly from Sand to the *Saudefiord, or Sevdefjord, the N. arm of the Sandsfjord, vying with the Sule- dalsvand in grandeur. Sande or Sande (poor quarters), at the head of the fjord, is reached in 11/4 hr. from Sand (61/4 hrs. from Sta- vanger). A path leads hence to Eske'vz'lc on the Reldalscand (p. 30), near Botten in 10—12 hrs. ; and another, diverging from the first, and somewhat longer, leads through the Slettedal to a point on the Hardanger road about 5 Kil. to the N. of Home (p. 30). C. The Sandeidfjord. The two weekly steamers from Stavanger to the Sandeidfjord, like'those to the Sandsfjord, take different routes, both in going and returning, one of them touching at Jtelse (p. 48) on the way out, and the other on the way back. At the mouth of the Sandeidfjord, on the left, lies Ncerstrand, beyond which the steamer soon reaches the point where this fjord, running N. and S., is intersected by the Yrkefiiord to the W. and the Vindefjord to the E., forming a complete cross, and recalling the form of the Lake of Lucerne. On the right, near the mouth of the Vindefjord, is Vikedal, a pretty place with thriving farm-houses, beyond which we soon reach Sandeid (Inn), pleasantly situated at the head of the fjord (61/2-91/2 hrs. from Stavanger, according to the route taken by the steamer). Travellers bound for the Hardanger should drive from Sandeid across the ‘Eid’, or neck of land which separates the Sandeidfjord from the Hardanger, to (8 Kil.) glen (*Inn), beautifully situated on the fjord of that name, a branch of the Hardanger Fjord. A steamer at present starts hence for Bergen on Tuesday and Friday mornings, via Skonevik, crossing the entrance to the Hardanger Fjord, a voyage of 11-12 hrs. in all. Another calls here on Thurs. forenoon on its way from Fjaere (see below) to Stavanger, and on Sat. afternoon on its way back. One of the Bergen steamers also goes from glen (Wed. forenoon) to Fjaare, at the end of the Aakrefiord (in 4 hrs.), whence a very rough, but picturesque bridle-path crosses the mountains, via Vinlertun, in 6-7 hrs. to (22 Kil.) Guard Jasendal, situated between Seljestad and Htldal on the road to'Odde (see p. 31); a little beyond Vintertan a branch of the track descends to the right direct to Seljestad (p. 31', comp. the Map, p. 52). The Wed. and Frid. steamers (see above) also touch at Etna, at the head of the Etne-Pollen, whence a mountain path leads direct to (50 Kil.) Seljestad (p. 31), a very fatiguing walk of 11-12 hrs. BAEDEKER‘S Norway and Sweden. 2nd Edit. 4 50 Route 8. - KOPERVIK. From Stdoanger If on arrival at glen the steamers do not suit, the traveller may drive to (11 Kil.) Etne and (9 Kil., very bad road, pay for 20 Kil.) Skonem'k, in descending to which a magnificent view of the Ulvenaase, 3600 ft. high, is enjoyed. Boat thence across the Skoneviksfjor'd to (6 Kil.) .erz- far'noes. Then drive to Valen and Sunde (p. 52) or to (12 Kil.) Helm‘k. Ferry thence to Hereen (p.52). About 11 Kil. to the N. of Hereen is Tereen (p.52). This approach to the Hardanger is much more varied and attractive than the direct steamboat route from Stavanger. 8. From Stavanger to Bergen. FROM STAVANGER ro BERGEN there are usually eleven steamers weekly, five being vessels of considerable size from Christiania, and one from Hamburg, bound for Bergen or more distant places, while five smaller steamers ply weekly between Stavanger and Bergen only. The larger boats touch at Haugesund only, beyond which they proceed direct to Bergen, either passing between the Bammele and the Storde, or between the latter and the Tysnoese. The outer islands are mostly bare and rocky, and of moderate height. The voyage by the direct steamers takes 81/2-12, by the local boats 12-15 hours. One of the latter touches at Noeshavn on the W. coast of the Tysnazse; the others pursue the more interesting course via Tea-even (p. 52). Nearly the whole voyage by all these steamers is in smooth water, their course being protected by islands, except for a short distance between Stavanger and Kopervik, and between Haugesund and Lange- vaag. The steamers are comfortably fitted up, but the sleeping accom- modation is always very limited. Breakfast or supper is provided for 1-11/2 kr., dinner for 2-21/2 kr.; steward‘s fee about 505. per day. By water Bergen is about 21 Norwegian sea-miles (84 Engl. M.) from Sta- vanger, but the course taken by the steamers is considerably longer. The miles given at the beginning of the paragraphs in the following route, are the direct distances from the starting-point of the route (Stavanger). The distances between the most important stations are also mentioned. —- Lastly, it may be mentioned, that, as the fine scenery of the Har- danger (R. 9), does not begin till Bergen and Tereen are approached, the traveller loses little by going thus far at night. The navigation of these western fjords of Norway, with their innumerable rocky islands, winding channels, promontories, and sunken rocks, is exceedingly intricate, often demanding the ut- most attention of the captains and pilots, whose skill the traveller will have occasion to admire. Most of the captains speak English, sometimes German also, and they are usually very obliging. —— Nu- merous lighthouses (Fyr) on both sides of the steamer’s course are passed between Stavanger and Langevaag, to the N. of Haugesund. On leaving Stavanger the vessel steers towards the N .W. ; on the left are the Duse-Fyr and Tungenazs-Fyr on the Randeberg ; to the right the Hundvaage, the Mostere with the ruined Ulsten- kloster, and beyond it the larger Rennese and other islands. On the left we next observe the lofty lighthouse on the Hvitingse, beyond which the open and unsheltered mouth of the Bukkenfjord is crossed (in about an hour). To the N .W. is the lighthouse of Falnazs (Skudesntes). We next observe Skudesnazshavn, with its lighthouse, to the left, a small seaport (1300 inhab.) at the 8. end of the Karme, to which a steamer runs from Stavanger twice weekly. The first station at which the steamers usually stop is Ferresoik, a village on the Bukkcne. ?wv“r;~;;—— ._ C‘ i J C‘) RN E FJ 0131) #002115 . u ‘ ~ ' Y , V . KLOSTER W-, 0 ,i 1 '.f~_~ ‘ ' ' fl _ ' ' . Y0": t '1 ‘k’ v‘ Y‘ ‘ ' 7 p . n “I g.— : graph. Ans von Wagner ‘Dubai, ‘ rig """b 2 ¢ 0 a no as no .- o n’ @ ___s 0W1 ‘WWI l'~)00.000 L M to Bergen. HAUGESUND. 8. Route. 51' 3 M. (19 Kil.) Kopervik, or Kobbervik (Inn), with 850 inhab., is one of the largest villages on the Karma, a large and populous island, to which the herring-fishery is a source of much gain. The island is nearly flat, and tolerably well cultivated at places, but consists chiefly of moor, marsh, and poor pasture-land, and is almost entirely destitute of trees. It contains numerous barrows, or ancient burial-places, especially near the N. end, some of which have yielded relics of great antiquarian value. The climate, which is cool in summer and mild and humid in winter, is exceptionally healthy, the average annual death-rate being only 12 per thousand. —- About 12 Engl. M. to the W. of the Karma lies the small and solitary island of Utsz're, with a chapel and a lighthouse. The steamer soon enters the Karmsund, the strait separating the island from the mainland. On the left, about 4 Engl. M. beyond Kopervik, is the old church of Augoaldsnazs, adjoining which, and inclined towards it, is an old ‘Bautastein’, 25 ft. in height, known as ‘J omfru Marius Synaal’ (the Virgin Mary’s Needle). Tradition says that when this pillar falls against the church the world will come to an end. To the N. of this point, on the opposite side of the ‘Sund’, are five similar stones, popularly called the ‘Fine Foolish Virgins‘. At the end of the Karmsund, on the mainland, lies —--~ 5 M. (32 Kil.) Haugesund (Jonassen’s Hotel; Olsen’s), locally known as Karmsund, with 4400 inhab., a place of no interest, except as the supposed burial-place of Harald Haarfagre (d. 933), whose original tombstone is still pointed out. On this spot, the Haraldshaug, a mound of earth a little to the N. of the town, rises an Obelisk of red granite, 45 ft. in height, on a square pedestal, around which are placed a number of stones, 9 ft. in height, called the Fylkestene, representing the Fylker, or districts into which Norway was formerly divided. This monument, called the Haralds- Stette, was inaugurated in 1872, on the thousandth anniversary of Harald’s victory on the Hafrsfjord, in consequence of which the whole of the Fylker were united under his sceptre. —- A road leads from Haugesund to the E. to (48 Kil.) .Glen (p. 49). To the N. of Haugesund extends an unprotected part of the coast, called Sletten, nearly 3 M. (19 Kil.) in length. Near the N. end of this tract, about 1 hr. beyond Haugesund, is Lynghol- men, where some of the steamers stop, the first station in Bergens— Stift, or the province of Bergen, to the W. of which is the Ryva'r— dens-Fyr on a rocky island. We now enter the Bemmelfjord, one of the narrow inlets of the Hardanger (p. 53), passing the Bemmele on the left, on which rises Siggen, a hill known as one of the ‘towers’ of Bergen. This district is called the Send-Harland, the natives of which are known as Seringer. Picturesque mountains in the background. Some of the steamers next stop at Tjernagel, on the mainland, 2M. (12 Kil.) farther, others at Langeoaag, on the Bam- mele, opposite. A i= 52 Route 8. LERVIK. 9 M. (58 Kil.) Mosterhaon, the next station, on the Mostere, boasts of a church built by Olaf Tryggvason (995-1000), the oldest in Norway. —— From this point onwards, comp. the Map. 11 M. (70 Kil.) Lervik, a station of some importance, lies at the S. end of the Storde, one of the largest of the islands at the entrance to the Hardanger. The well-wooded Halsene, an island to the E., contains part of the buildings of a Benedictine monastery, founded probably in 1164. Several barrows in the vicinity. One of the Hardanger steamers, instead of touching at Lervik, usually turns to the 8., past the promontory of Valestrand, and describes a long circuit to Udbjer, glen, Etne, Skonevik, and Her-zen (comp. pp. 49,50), taking 3 hrs. longer to reach Hereen than the more direct steamer. Beyond Lervik the direct steamer traverses the Bemmel-Fjord and Kloster-Fjord, the latter named after the above-mentioned monastery on the Halsene. 12% M. (80 Kil.) Sunde, situated in the Husnazs-Fjord, on the peninsula of Husnoes. Travellers bound for the Hardanger Fjord have often to change steamers here (comp. p. 53). > 131/2 M. (86 Kil.) Hereen, a small island opposite Hel'vik, is an important station, as most of the steamers to the Hardanger, both from Stavanger and from Bergen, as well as several of those plying between Stavanger and Bergen, touch here (see p. 53). The scenery now becomes more interesting; the mountains are higher and less barren, and on every side the eye is met with a picturesque pro- fusion of rocks, islands, promontories, and wooded hills, enlivened with bright-looking little hamlets nestling in sheltered creeks. 15 M. (96 Kil.) Tereen (Inn), a little island and village near the N. coast of the fjord, and to the E. of the large Tysncese, is a very important station, six steamers running thence weekly to Bergen, four into the Hardanger, and two to Stavanger. Travellers have often to change boats here. The scenery is remarkably fine here, especially as the snowy summit of the Folgefond (p. 54) is now visible towards the E. —— Near this point we quit the Send- Horland, the island and coast district hitherto skirted, and enter the Nord-Horland, and it is here that the Hardanger Fjord strictly speaking begins. ' Beyond Tereen, which is reached in 9-10 hrs., the steamer passes through the Loksund, a very narrow strait between the mainland and the Tysnorse. The next station, Einingeeiken, lies on the Tysnaese, at the N. end of the strait; beyond which is Godesund, on a small island to the N. of the Tysnaese. The Bjernefjord is next traversed. To the N. lies the pleasant-looking ‘Os. The steamer passes Lapse (to the right) and proceeds through the narrow Krogene and the Korsfiord. To the right is the Lyse- fiord, on the W. bank of which lies the ruined convent of Lyse. Farther on we pass the peninsula of Korsnazs. To the left, a little later, is the light-house of Marstenfyr, apparently rising directly from the sea. Then Bulcken, a small island between the mainland .4- -.- @355? ‘N_.‘» _ c ‘ J M: " 'V‘f‘vq "H" a if N.,,‘ .‘ a‘ \, '~ A \v‘v '- _J ’ ‘ . ‘I \ M ‘J, ‘ \. "'4 ‘ '\ 1 “ 1v, um Imsrwqiimgo a9 ‘6' W; _ , ‘x 2:‘, i! In» ~ V T #153“ 2" J-ininlL-J ‘r “i l I H‘Rm. '1 I. I! _ } fiHHIIHHHHPWi Ml! . 6F“ ' W ‘ H ' ‘I'M \' I4 I” ‘T’ ‘ l . . k ,- -$,u 15 Kil. (pay for 22 in either direction) ~l-Breisterlen (Station, unpretending, but good), beyond which there is an almost con- tinuous and latterly steep descent, passing several waterfalls, to the bridge of Berlaug on the Valders‘ route (p. 93). From‘Tuf over the Hemsedals‘fjeldv to this point (about 40‘Kil., for which 7-8 hrs. Bannnxn'a’s Norway and Sweden. 2nd Edit. 6 82 Route 121 UPPER HALLINGDAL. From Christiania should be allowed in either direction) the scenery is very wild and bleak, but the road now enters the highly picturesque valley of the Laerdalsel'v. A little below the bridge is —- 12 Kil. (pay for 15, but in the opposite direction for 17) 'fHmg (*Statio'n), see p. 93. — From Haeg to Lcerdalseren, see pp. 93, 95. UPPER HALLINGDAL. The Hallingdal in the narrower sense, or main valley (Hoveddal- ferret), ascends to the W. from Viko (p. 80) to the wild and desolate re- gions of the Hallingskarven, the mountains forming the S. prolongation of the Fillefjeld and the Hemsedalsfjeld, and across which paths lead N.W. to the Sognefjord and S.W. to the Hardanger Fjord. With this district are associated some of the most famous of Norwegian sagas, such as that of the Villand family, and the inhabitants retain more of their ancient characteristics than those of almost any other part of Norway. With the exception of the higher mountains, however, the scenery is neither very picturesque nor imposing. About 8Kil. above Viko a halt of 1/2 hr. is made at Elle/'smoen, beyond which we reach —— 15 Kil. (from Viko) "1* ‘ubgaarden i Torpe, near which is the old timber—built Church of Torpe. 11 Kil. iSundre i Aal (a very fair station). In the vicinity are the interesting Church of Act and the curious old houses known as the Gretastue and Thingstue. The road then skirts the Stran- defjord (1480 ft.), to the S. of which rises the Sangerfjeld (3855 ft.), and then divides into two branches. The branch to the S.W. leads to the Hardanger, while the branch to the N.W. leads to the station of (6 Kil.) 'i‘Neraal, with the church of Hot, from which there is a path to the Sognefjord (p. 83). 1. ROUTE 'ro THE HARDANGER [45-50 Kil.). Near (6 Kil.) Ham- 'mersbeen is the Raaen-Gaard (good accommodation), the property of Sander Raaen, who is said to have‘ collected no fewer than 6000 of the old Norse words to be found in Ivar Aasen’s dictionary. From Hammersboen we ride or walk up the Ustadal to (17 Kil.) Tufte (2755 ft.), the highest gaard in the valley (unpretending quarters). The huge Hallingskarven is sometimes ascended from this point. The E. peak (6330 ft.) is reached by ascending the course of the Eimeheia, while the W. peak (6440 ft.) is scaled from the W. end of the Ustavand. View not picturesque, but very extensive, especially from the latter, vembracing the Hardanger Vidda (p. 62) and other mountains. Two paths, the Northern and the Southern, lead from Tufte to Maursaat, the highest gaard on the Hardanger side. The latter is the shorter, but the masters are farther apart. By either route the journey may be performed in one day. Northern Route. The well-defined saeter-track ascends the course of the Ustaelo, crosses it 11/2 Kil. below its efflux from the Ustavand, and leads to the Rennesdals-Sazter and Homebo-Saeter. Pedestrians had better sleep at the latter, and start thence early next morning. Imposing view of the Hallingskarven with its bold to Lwrdalwren. UPPER HALLINGDAL. 12. Rout-e. 83 precipices. We now follow the Skarvaa and skirt the Monsbuheia, commanding a view of M onsnuten, round which the path leads to a hut on the Hrterenvand. We cross the river and follow the Krcelcjaheia to a ford (‘Vadested’) between the Store and the Vesle Kmkja'vand, skirt the Halnelcolle (see below) on the N. side, cross the boundary of Bergens Stift, and reach the Olafsbuvand. The path then follows the K jelda to the Indsteswter on the Sysen'vand, whence it leads to the gaards of Maurstet and Hal, from which last (p. 61) the Vmz'ngsfos may be visited. Southern Route. This track crosses the Ustaelv to the S. of Tufte and leads past the Brendesazte'r, on the Halvo'r'vand, and the Tuoesazter to the new Tourists’ Hut, where the night is spent. It then leads towards the W. to the Gronaelv, and crosses the Krallcja- heia to the ford between the Kmkjavand and Kmkjatjazm (Tjawn or Kjaern, ‘pond’), near which is the Halnekolle, with two miserable cattle-huts (Fazlazgre). Passing the Dyretjazm, we may now either cross the Gjerenut (commanding an extensive view), or go round its base, to the Storliensaeter on the Bjereia. The path follows the latter, crosses the Leira which descends from the Sysenvand, and descends to Maursa'zt. This route also commands a grand view of the Hallingskarven and the Hardanger-Jekul. -—-— From Maursaet to the Hat Gaard, above the Veringsfos (p. 61), 6 Kil. 2. ROUTE TO THE SOGNEFJORD (about 85 Kil. ; ‘21/2 days). This is one of the finest mountain-expeditions in Norway. We start from Neraal (or Ned'reaal; see p. 82), with the interesting church of Hol, situated between the Holsfjo'rd and the Ha'velfjo'rd. To the W. towers the Hallingskarcen. The church of H01 should, if possible, be visited on a Sunday, when many picturesque old— fashioned costumes are still worn by the peasantry. At the end of the Hevelfjord lies the Guard Villand, the ancient seat of the famous and turbulent family of that name (the Villandsaet), who had another residence at Tufte (‘Villandstufte’), the place mentioned above. About 6 Kil. above Villand the road turns to the W. and leads past the Sunddalsfjord to the Gudbrandsgaard (2550 ft.), to which driving is practicable (good quarters). The saeter track leads hence to the Garlidsazter, and along the Q'vre Strandefjord, a lake 11 Kil. in length, on which are several saeters , to Myrestelen (tolerable quarters), the last regularly occupied Hallingdal saeter. The Hallingskarven remains in sight the greater part of the way. The actual mountain-pass to the Sogn district, about 17 Kil. in length, begins here. It is probable that the original in- habitants of the Upper Hallingdal crossed the mountains thither from the coast, just as Valders was originally peopled from Lmrdal. These valleys therefore belonged to the ancient jurisdiction of the Gulathz'ngslag (p. 112). The path passes Ulevasbotten, Vie-rbotten, and a third saeter with a herd of reindeer watched by Lapps from Reros, and then ascends rapidly to the Shard (‘gap’) between‘the Ulevas- 6* 84 Route 13. LAKE SPIRILLEN. From Christiania nut on the E. and the Sundhellerfjeld on the W., crosses the Bolhevde, where the direction is indicated by heaps of stones, and leads to the Steinbergdal in the Vasbygd. The first night had better be spent at the .Gje-Sseter here (2933 ft.; good quarters). Passing the Nesetsceter, we next pass the mountain-hamlet of Aurland, and descend the formidable pass of the *Noesbegalder, partly by a perpendicular ladder, and partly by a path borne by iron rods driven into the rock, to Gaard Nasbe. The route then follows the Nazsbedal (or a short-cut may be taken by the dizzy Bjollstig) to Gaard Sennerheim (second night). — On the third day the path leads in about 5hrs. down the Sennerheimsgalder and along a rapid stream to the Vasbygdua-nd, which we cross by boat. From Vasenden to Au'rlandsvangen is about 6 Kil. more. See p. 106. 13. From Christiania through the Valders to Leer- dalseren on the Sognefjord. To the N .W. of Christiania lie the three important lakes Kre- deren (p. 79), Rands/‘jord, and Spirillen, running from N. to S. and nearly parallel with one another. The S. end of each of these lakes is reached from Christiania by railway. The steamer on Lake Krederen then conveys us to the beginning of the Halling— dal route (R. 12), while the great high-road through the Valders passes near the N. ends of the other two. Of all the routes between Christiania and Bergen (comp. p. 78) that through the Valders, either via the Spirillen or the Randsfjord, is the finest in point of scenery and the most comfortable in respect of accommodation. The road by the Spirillen is perhaps preferable to that by the Randsfjord, but between the lake and Frydenlund the station-mas- ters have only a limited number of horses. The most frequented route is that by the Randsfjord. By either of the Valders routes it is possible to reach Laerdalseren in 3 days, but is is better to allow four or five. In the height of the travelling season an early start should always be made in order that the station where the night is to be spent may be reached as early as possible, with a view to secure rooms, or, if neces- sary, to go on to the next station. Among the pedestrians who traverse the favourite Valders route a considerable number of Norwegian ladies will be observed. a. VIA LAKE SPIRILLEN TO FRYDENLUND. _ ‘ .250 Kil. (155 Engl. M.). RAILWAY from Christiania to (130 Kil.) Heen in 5 hrs. 50 min. (fares 6 kr. 45 9., 4 kr.). — STEAMBOAT from Heen to (56 Kil.) Serum daily, except Sun., in 51/2 hrs.; or, when the river is low, to New: (Granum) only , in 41/2 hrs.; returning from Serum or Nees 'on the following morning. —— ROAD from Serum to Frydenlund 50 Kil. '(Skyds 17o. per mile); thence to Loerdalseren, 157 Kil. Railway to Heen, seeR. 2. The, steamer usually starts about an hour after the arrival of the train, ' giving time for luncheon or‘ early dinner at Dahl’s Inn (tolerable). It then ascends "the to Lazrdalser'en. GRANUM.v 13. Route. 85 Bazgna or Aadalselv, with its occasional lake-like expansions. The navigable channel, indicated by wooden buoys (Beier) is some- what intricate. On the right we soon pass Hallingby, a ‘skyds- station’, with a pretty church. Higher up the river the stream becomes very rapid, and the engines are required to do their ut- most. We next pass the pleasant-looking farm of Bergsund on the left. The course of the vessel is often obstructed by floating timber (Temmer), through which it has to force a passage. The rapid Kongstrem, which intersects an old moraine, is now ascended, and we enter (18 Kil. from Heen) -— *Lake Spirillen (probably derived from spira, ‘to flow rapidly’), a beautiful sheet of water, 17 Engl. M. in length, surpassing the Randsfjord in picturesqueness. The banks are well cultivated at places, and at others mountainous and severe. The principal place on the W. bank is Aadalen, with a church, and on the E. bank Enger, a picturesque gaard and posting-station. To the left, farther on, the mountains become more imposing (Gyranfisen, 3532 ft.). On the opposite bank lie several farms with a plea- sant sunny aspect (‘paa Solsiden’). The large blocks of stone on the banks have been left in their present position by the ice with which the lake is covered in winter. After passing the preci- pitous rocks on the left, the steamer comes in sight of — Naes, or Nazsmoen, at the head of the lake, with its church and wild mountain-background. To the W. of Nees is the entrance to the Hedal, through which a. rough road ascends to Gore Hedal, with the interesting timber-built church of Ildjer'nstad, about 25 Kil. distant. According to tradition the whole population of this valley died of the plague in 1349-50 (‘den store Mandeded‘, ‘Dauden‘, or ‘den sorte Dad”). When the church was after- wards discovered by a hunter, he found a bear installed by the altar, in proof of which a bear’s skin is still shown. Similar traditions also exist with regard to other places in Norway and Denmark. —— From Ildjern- stad a road crosses the hill to Linheia (see below). When the river above Naes is too low to be navigable, the steamer does not go beyond this point, in which case the trav— eller crosses the bridge to the(10 min.) skyds-station Granum (good quarters), whence he may drive the same evening to Linheia or even to Storsveen. Or he may pass the night at Granum and go on next morning in a smaller steamer to (11/2 hr.) Serum. In summer, however, the Lake Spirillen steamer usually ascends the rapid and picturesque Bwgna to Serum. The banks are at first wooded and somewhat monotonous. On the left rises the precipitous Bjernbratbjerg, and farther on is the Haraldshoug, a hill with several farms, which commands a fine view of the valley. On the right towers the imposing Valdershorn, and on the left the Serumfjeld. We now cross the boundary between the districts (Fogderier) of Buskerudsamt and Christiansamt. The mutilated birches here have been stripped of their foliage to provide fodder for the cattle, Stremmen is prettily situated on the right, 86 Route 13. VOLD. From Christiania Serum (Inn, fair), a prettily situated gaard~ with a steamboat- pier, 11 Kil. from Nae-s and 56 Kil. from Heen, is the terminus of the steamboat-route. To the right lies Gaarden Hougsund, one of the largest farms in Valders. Farther on, to the left, is the Tolteifsrudlcirke, where our road is joined by that from Ildjern- stad in the Q'vre Hedal (see above). Passing Gaarden Docka, we soon reach —— 18Kil. (from Granum) *fLinheio (*Station). To the left diverges the old road, now a seeter-track only, to the Hedal (see above); and on the same side of the road we afterwards pass the huge rocky precipice of Morlcollen. From the left, farther on, descends the Muggedals-Elv. To the right, on the opposite bank of the Baegna, Gaarden Grimsrud. Scenery picturesque and pleasing, particularly in the neighbourhood of the Sendre, Midt, and Nordre-Garthus farms. 17 Kil. i Storsveen (*Station). Here, as in several other places on the route, the peasants often possess various interesting ‘Old- norsk’ books, such as the ‘Heimskringla’ of Snorre Sturlasson. To the left, farther on, rises the Thronhusfjeld, and on the right the Fonhusfjeld. The road then crosses the Helleraa, where there are several mills, and passes a pretty school-house (Skolegaard), a num- ber of thriving farms, and the Grcend (‘hamlet’) Kobbervilc. The Baegna expands at places into the form of a lake. In front of some of the houses a Maistang (‘may—pole’) and a Julebaand(‘0hristmas sheaf’ for the birds) form memorials of the local customs. —— At Sundstad, where the Baegna contracts, are the ruins of a bridge by which the road formerly crossed to the E. (left) bank of the river, leading thence to Bang. The new road, completed in 1877, now ‘follows the W. (right) bank, and skirts the Soartvikfjeld, with its overhanging rocks and ‘giant cauldrons’ (hollows formed by the action of water). The Soleiblomst or Smerblomst (a kind of ranun- culus) is frequently seen by the wayside. We now reach the large basin of Bang 2' Sendre Aurdal, with its numerous farms, its church, and parsonage, all on'the opposite bank of the river, and ‘soon sto at -— ' ' p13Kil. Vold (*Station), charmingly situated. A pleasant walk may be taken to (10 min.) the Fall of the Bc‘egn'a, which however may also be visited on the way to Frydenlund. -—A good road leads from Vold, passing Krcemmermoenv (formerly the station), to Graodat and (11 Kil.) Soeen (see p. .89). ' " ' Y ' ‘ On the left, beyond Vold, ~rises the pointed Hullekollen, at the base of which is Reinlid, with'its ancient Staoekirke' (p. ‘21), the road to which diverges to the ‘left near the Baegna-bridge (1' hr.'). Our road crosses the bridge and turns to the left, ‘entering the'uppe‘r region of the valley of the Baegna‘, while the road- to the right leads to Kraemmermoen, Bang, and Sveen. ' Fine mountain-scenery. The :road. soon quits the valley and ascends the Juk'amshteo in long windings, whence we .obtaina-striking- view of therapid ‘river to Lazrdalsa'ren. FRYDENLUND. 13. Route. 87 below. To the right, at the top of the hill, is G'aardcn Jukam, which we afterwards pass on the left. The road affords a good survey of the Reinlidsbygd with the Stavedals/‘jeld, the mountain range of which Hullekollen is a spur. -— Beyond ‘Plads’ Hengen we obtain a noble *VrEw of the snow-mountains of Jotunheim bounding the valley of Q’stre Slidre, the Kolvaahegda, the Thorflnstinder, and the other. mountains near Lake Bygdin (p. 136). On the right we observe the road which crosses the wooded Tonsaas to Gravdal (p. 89). The road then descends to Gam'den Motet (or Medtes), where it is usual to rest the horses for half-an-hour. Over the door of the gaard are the quaint verses — ‘Stat her mit Huus i Fred ‘Her aeder jeg mit Brod, For hveert Misundheds .Qye, Her frygter jeg min Gud; Thi den misundte Jord Velsignet er hver den Den laer sig ogsaa plcye.’ Som her gaar in 0g ud.’ [May my house stand here in peace from every eye of envy; (but I care not) for the envied earth can equally well be ploughed. Here I eat my bread and fear my God. Blessed be every one that passes in and out.] The scenery beyond this point is less interesting. The road runs chiefly through wood, and again ascends, soon uniting with the road from Gjevik and Odnaes, which descends from the Ton- saas on the right. 17 Kil. i-Frydenlund (*Station; seep. 89) lies on the old road, to the left of the new, and about 200 paces below it. b. V13 THE RANDSFJORD TO ODNZES AND THENCE BY CARRIAGE 'ro LERnALsenEN. 454 Kil. (282 Engl. M.). RAILWAY from Christiania to (142 Kil.) Bands- fjord in 61/4 hrs. (fares 6 kr. 85, Zlkr. 205.). STEAMBOAT from Rands- fjord to (72 Kil.) Odnces daily (corresponding with the early train from Christiania) in 51/2 hrs., ‘returning from Odnaes in the morning, in time for the second train to Christiania (fares ll kr., 2 kr. 80 $5.). Roan from Odnees to (240 Kil.) Locrdalserren, with fast stations. The charge for a carriolc and horse for one pers. is 17 e. per Kil., carriage and horse for 2 pers. 25 e. per Kil., with a gratuity of 15 e. per station. For the whole distance a carriole costs about 45, a carriage for 2 pers. about 65 kr. With ‘Skyds‘ about 6-7 Kil. can be accomplished per hr., or about 80 kil. per day in summer, when the days are long. The so-called ‘DILIGENCE’, which plys 4 times weekly between Od- naes and Laerdalscren, consists of one or more carriages, each drawn by 'two or three horses, and with seats for 4-5 passengers. _The fare for one person is 34 kr. Each passenger is ‘allowed 401bs.-of luggage. Seats may be engaged a fortnight in advance. by writing tQ'Hl‘. _Expeditor Wisting, Odnaes, or to Hr. LensmandAndresen, Leerdalseren, and at the same time prepaying the fare. In the height ofthe travelling, season the diligences are often 'full, and the s'mall‘i-nns" where- they stop for dinner or put ‘up for thenight ‘are, ofucoursel crowded. -'_I_‘he_y canthere— fore ‘only be~ recommended either at. a ,very,_ early-or late ,period of .the season ,_ or when a party of 24, persons engages ‘all the‘ seats in {one vehicle for the whole‘journey (in which case the driver may be induced slightly ‘to modify‘ the usual time-table). The advantages-of; the diligence, besides the trifling pecuniary saving, are [its expedition and the fact that comfortable meals and beds are ‘kept in readinGSS‘fOI' the Passage”; These; however, are more than counterbalanced by the' loss ‘of independence and diminution ‘of comfort. > ' ' '_ . . I 8 8 Route 13 . RAND SFJORD. From Christiania The pleasantest way of driving from Odnaes to Leerdalsoren is to hire a PRIVATE CARRIAGE. A carriage-and-pair with a hood (‘Caleschvogn‘) for 2-3 pers. costs 110-130 kr., with a gratuity of 4-6 kr. Travellers pressed for time are cautioned against engaging horses for the whole distance, in which case 60 Kil. only can be accomplished each day. Speed and com- fort are best combined by hiring a carriage or a ‘Trille’ (a four—wheeled carriage without a hood) and a driver for the whole journey, stipulating, for a change of horses at each station. The arrangements with the driver, who is generally apt to be somewhat independent, should be made very carefully, especially as to the hours of starting and arrival, the stations for halting for dinner, and the change of horses. As almost all the stations are fairly good, the traveller may divide his journey in any way he pleases, but he should avoid those stations where diligence-passengers spend the night. With skyds the drive from Laerdalseren to Odnaes generally takes 3 days, the nights being spent at Fager'lund and Nystuen or at Frydenlund and Skogstad. In midsummer it is possible to perform it in 2 days, as the steamer arrives at 7 a.m. and twilight lasts till 11 pm. In this case the night is passed at Tomlevolden or Sveen. The SCENERY is beautiful almost the whole way from Christiania to Laerdalseren, and at places exceedingly picturesque and striking. The finest part of the route, which will even reward the pedestrian, is from Frydenlund t0 Husum (140 Kil. or 87 Engl. M.). Railway from Christiania to (142 Kil.) Randsfjord, see R. 2. Randsfjord Station (*Inn) lies on the left bank of the Rands— elo, near its efflux from the Randsfjord. A bridge crosses the broad river to Kokkerstuen or Hadelands Glasvwrk, in the district of Hadeland. The Randsfjord (steamboat-pier near the station), a lake 420 ft. above the sea-level, 44 Engl. M. in length, and 1-21/2 M. only in width, is the largest in S. Norway after Lake Mjesen (p. 114). It is bounded on the E. by the well-cultivated and populous district of Hadeland, and on the W. and N. by the districts of Valders and Land. The banks, rising gradually to a height of 2000 ft., and well cultivated at places, are somewhat monotonous and uninterest- ing. The lake is generally so narrow as to resemble a broad river. The steamer (one daily in each direction; see above) performs the trip to Oclnazs in 51/2 hrs., stopping at numerous stations-on the way. By the church of Fluberg, on the right, near the N. end of the lake, are a number of fine weeping birches. tOdnses (*Hotel), situated to the left of the road, at the N. end of the Randsfjord, and 10 minutes’ walk from the steamboat— pier. To the N. of Odnaes, on the high-road from Gjevik to Lake Mjosen (see p. 115), lies — 3 Kil. i-Skeien (*Station; carriages at the pier). Travellers spending the night here or at Odnaes are recommended to leave very early next morning in order to get the start of the usual morn— ing stream of tourists, and they should also avoid spending the night at the same places as the diligence. —— Beyond Skeien the road ascends on the N. bank of the Etnaelv, which falls into the Randsfjord, and crosses the Doltka, an affluent descending from the right. The scenery, though enlivened with thriving farm- houses and beautiful birches, is somewhat tame here. - to Lwrdatwren. , GRAVDAL. 13. Route. 89 14 Kil. 1'Tomlevolden (*Station, good and reasonable) is situated in the district of Nordre Land. The station is a good specimen of a substantial Norwegian farm-house, with its ‘Stabbur’ (store- house, usually provided with a bell) and other roomy outbuildings, almost entirely constructed of timber. About 7 Kil. from Tomle- volden the road crosses the Etnaelv by a bridge which affords a fine view of the Etnadal, and begins to ascend the Tonsaas, a wooded hill with a level plateau on the summit (as is so frequently the case with the Norwegian mountains), 2300 ft. in height, which separates the valleys of the Etna and the Baegna (p. 85). A little beyond the bridge we cross the boundary between Hadeland (p. 88) and Valders. 15 Kil. (pay for 18) 1~Sveen (* Station) is beautifully situated on the N.E. side of the Tonsaas. The road now ascends through fine forest-scenery, affording several picturesque views of wooded ravines, to Gravdal (Tonsaasen’s Sanatorium, a hotel and pension, 110-120 kr. per month), 3 Kil. above Sveen, which attracts many visitors in summer for the sake of the fine forest-walks and beautiful views in the vicinity. [A road diverging here to the left crosses part of the Tonsaas, passes the church of Bang, and leads to (13 Kil.) Vold on the Baagna, a station on the Spirillen route, p. 86.] A little higher up we reach the wooded plateau on the summit of the Tonsaas and pass two swampy lakes (a raft on one of which serves as a ferry-boat). To the N. we obtain a fine view of Bruflat in the Etnadal. The road now gradually descends, and where it issues from the forest commands an imposing *Vrnw of the beauti- ful and partially wooded valley of Valders, with the Strandefjord running through it, and the snow-capped Jotunheim Mountains, Galdbergstind, and Thorfinstinder in the background (see R. 17). The road soon reaches the Bazgnadal, where it is joined by the Spirillen road (p. 87), and, a little farther on, —— 19 Kil. (pay for 23) i'Frydenlund i Nordre Aurdal (*Station), a large village beautifully situated on the old road, to the left of, and 20 paces below the new. The Foged, or chief administrative official, the Sorenskriver, or local judge, and the Lensmand, or chief constable, reside here. In the vicinity are the church of Aurdal and the hamlet of Sofielund. Beyond Frydenlund the road, which is nearly level, runs high above the Bwgna, partly through wood, and partly through cultiv- ated land, and soon reaches the Aurdalsfjord, with its numerous islands, one of the series of long lakes from which the Baegna issues, and of which the Strandefjord and Vangsmjesen are the principal. Another fine view is obtained at Onstad, where the forester resides. The road then passes the District Prison on the left. On the other side of the broad valley is the Aabergsbygd, watered by the Aabergselv, which forms the Kvannefos. ‘To the 90 Route 13. FAGERLUND. From Christiania right, farther on, is a fine waterfall, called Fosbraaten, and to the left is heard the roar of the Vaslefos, a picturesque waterfall of the Baegna, which may be visited from Fagernaes. We now reach the beautiful Strandefjord (1170 ft.), a narrow lake 17 Engl. M. in length, and soon stop at -— 13 Kil. 'f'Fagerlund i Nordre Aurdat (* Station; the landlord speaks English), a few paces beyond the former station of Fagernazs (* Inn), situated on the N. bank of the lake, and at the mouth of the Nazselv, descending from flstre Slidre. This is a charming spot for a stay of some duration, affording attractions to artists and sportsmen alike , and the two names just mentioned (‘fair grove’ and ‘fair promontory’ respectively) are by no means inappro- priate. The lake and neighbouring streams afford good trout- fishing, and wild-duck shooting is also obtainable. As, however, this is a favourite starting-place for an excursion to the Jotunheim Mts. 17), the route to which diverges here, the inns are often full in the height of summer. About 3 Kil. beyond Fagerlund we cross the Nceselv, which forms some picturesque cataracts about 100 yds. above the bridge, and follow the bank of the Strandefjord, passing the churches of Soennces and Ulnazs. To the S., on the opposite side of the valley, is seen the Vassetetv, which descends from the Syndin Lakes. To the W. rise the snow-mountains on the Vangsmjesen. Near Ulnzes-Kirke and at Gaarden Fosseim, beyond it, on the opposite bank, the lake is crossed by bridges, the part of it be- tween them being called the Graneimfjord. Mountain-passes from Ulnaes and Fosseim to the Hallingdal, see p. 80. The road now gradually ascends the hill to —- 18 Kil. j'Reien (a fair station), near which is the Church of Reen with its old K tockstapel (clock-tower); in the vicinity are numerous farms. About 6 Kil. beyond Reien we reach the beautifully situated Church of Vestre Slidre, which commands a fine view of the lake. Near this church a road diverges to the right, crossing the Slidreaas to (19 Kil.) Rogne in Hstre Stz'dre (p. 134). A little before reaching the top of the hill which this road ascends, about 8—9 Kil. from the church, the traveller may diverge by a path to the right, leading in 25 min. to the "Hvz'dhafd (‘white head’), an eminence which commands a striking view of the valleys of Vestre and Q’stre Slidre, the Bitihorn, and the snow-mountains to the N. of Lake Bygdin and the Vinstervand. A few hundred paces to the W. of this point rises the “K'valehegda, where an admirable survey of the whole of the Bygdin range, the Vangsmjesen, and‘ the Hallingdal mountains to the S. is en'j oyed. A few hundred paces beyond‘ the church of Vestre Slidre' a gate and private road on the right lead in 5 min. to .Blken. (*Hotel and Pension, 3-1/2 kr. per day), a farm-house con- verted into an inn, beautifully situated on the hill about 300'ft. above the lake. As this .house is a favouritesu'mmer-resort and attracts a considerable number of invalids and others, it is generally to Larrdalseren. LHKEN. 13. Route. 91 quite full in the height of the season. The ‘Distriktslaege’, or physician of the district, lives on the high-road near Glken. Horses and carriages may be had here. The ascent of the Hvidhefd and K'valchegda, mentioned above, is recommended (3 hrs. there and back). The scenery continues to be very attractive. In traversing the heights of‘ Koala we obtain a magnificent view of the Slid/refjord (1190 ft.), as the upper part of the Strandefjord is often called, with the mountains to the W. —— Farther on we pass the church of Lomen. (Beyond this point the route is given on the accom- panying Map.) 10 Kil. Leken (*Statz'on, English spoken), at the W. end of the Slidrefjord. The road traverses wood the greater part of the way to the next station, ascending the left bank of the Baegna, which, a short distance beyond Leken, forms a fine fall called the Lofos, a little to the left of the road. 15 Kil. i-Zilo (1475 ft. ; *Station, civil landlady) is a favourite resort of artists, some of whom have embellished one of the rooms with a number of paintings. The situation of the place presents little attraction, but it lies close to the *Vangsmjesen (1540 ft.), a magnificent lake, about 30 Kil. in length. The road follows the S. bank of the lake to Gaarden Koam, near which it is carried past the Kvamsklev (‘ravine cliff’) by means of a gallery hewn in the face of the Hugakolle, resembling the Axenstrasse on the Lake of Lucerne. In spring and autumn the safety of travellers is some- times endangered here by the falling of masses of rock. At the most hazardous point the road is protected by a roof. This is the most striking point on the whole of the Valders route, and com- mands a noble survey of the imposing lake and the mountains enclosing it. On the right rises the Vednisfjcld, on the left the Grindefjeld (see below), and opposite us the Shjoldfjeld. To the N. is the Dresjafos. A little farther on, to the left of the road, is Tunei Vang, formerly the station, which, however, was removed in 1881 to (1 Kil. farther on) _- 10 Kil. TGrindaheim (* Vang Hotel, clean and reasonable; the landlord, Ole For, speaks English), beautifully situated on the bank of the Vangsmjesen. Just before reaching the station we pass the Church of Vang, which replaces the old Staockirke (‘timber church’) purchased by Frederick William IV. of Prussia in 1844 for 320 kr. and removed to the Giant Mts. in Silesia. A stone in front of the church bears the Runic inscription: ‘Gosa .sunir ristu stz'n thissi aftir Gunar’ (‘the sons of Gosa erected this _stone to the memory of Guna-r’). To the S. rises the huge Grinde- fjeld (5590 ft.), which may be ascended hence in 4 hrs. —- The road continues to skirt the lake, passing several farms (Hag- .strand, Fertnws, Vierdok, and Sore) and the church of Q'ye. Op; posite to us- rises the imposing N. bank of the lake, on which 92 Route .13. NYSTUEN. From Christiania tower the conspicuous Skodshorn (similar phenomenon to that seen on the Lysefjord, p. 48) and the Sky/rifield. From Bye a mountain-path. passing to the S. of the Kvamenes (3900 ft.) and the Borrenes (4869 ft.), which last mountain may be ascended from the route, and skirting the Utrovand, leads to Nystuen on the Fillefjeld (see below) in half-a-day. The road now ascends from the Vangsmjesen to the small Strandefjord (1604 ft.), which it skirts (not to be confounded with the Strandefjord lower down, p. 90). At the end of it is Kasa. From Kasa a path leads to the Jonskard-Soetelrs (4120 ft.) and thence to the passing the Flagersa’tnes (5479 ft.) on the right, to the gian- gensje‘ and Steinbodsje, and through the Gjelmundsdal to Lake Tyt'n (T'vz'nde- houg, p. 139); in all a good day‘s walk (guide 4 kr.). Beyond the Strandefjord the scenery assumes a more mountain- ous character, and a few farms are now seen on the sunny side of the valley only. 19 Kil. +Skogstad (1885 ft.; a fair station), 1 Engl. M. to the right of the road, is a good starting-point for a visit to Jotunheim (R. 17). From this point to the next station there is a steep ascent of nearly 1400 ft., and the road is unpleasantly hilly at places, especially to persons descending. The scenery now loses its grand moun- tainous character. By making a slight digression from the high-road at Skogstad (about 3 hrs.; guide necessary) a magnificent View may be obtained. The path passes the farms of OpdaZ, Elbier-rg, and Flatten on the S. slope of the hill, and crosses the Troldhe (3207 ft.) to the Hagesoct-Soeter in the valley of the Bjerdela, which falls into the Becgna lower down. The top of the hill commands a very striking survey of the Tyin Lake and the mountains of the Koldedal and Melkedal, with several considerable glaciers. 11 Kil. (pay for 17) i'Nystuen (3252 ft.; *Station, often crowded in the height of summer), which resembles some of the large Alpine hospices on a small scale, stands on the barren Fillefjeld, above the Utro'vand. To the N. rises the Stugunas (see below), to the E. the Borrenes (4870 ft.). The landscape presents the desolate and somewhat monotonous character possessed by most of the higher Norwegian mountains. The gaard, an unpretending group of build- ings, is partly supported by government as a ‘Fjeldstue’, or mountain refuge (comp. p. 202), and is chiefly important in winter, when travellers have frequently been rescued from danger by the bravery of its inmates. (Knud Nystuen, the father of the present landlord, has been presented with the Norwegian silver medal ‘for Borger- daad’, 2'. e. for an act of heroism.) As the most violent winds blow from W. to E., all the buildings are erected with their nar- rower sides to the W., in order to present the smallest possible surface to the storms. — Route to Jotunheim, see p. 139. The *Stugunzs (4827 ft.) may easily be ascended from Nystuen in 21/2-3 hrs. (or 4-5 hrs. there and back) by following the brook to the W. of the station and than going eastwards. Or the ascent may be made from Nystuen direct (somewhat steep). In either case a guide is un- necessary. The summit commands an uninterrupted survey of the J0- tunheim range, from the Horunger 0n the W. to the Sletmarkhg on the -— To'the S. of Nystuen rises the Suletind (5813 ft.), an imposing mountain-top, 6 Kil. distant. The excursion thither from Nystuen and. w Laerdalseren. MARISTUEN. 13. Route. 93 back takes 5-6 hrs., presenting no difficulty; or the ascent may be com- bined with the journey to Mar'istuen by leaving the high-road at the Kir'kesterl, a saeter a little beyond Nystuen, and following the old road (den gamle Vei) to the S. The view from the Suletind is one of the finest in Norway, but is rarely quite clear. FROM NYs'rUEN T0 AARDAL (12-13 hrs.; guide desirable). The bridle- path, which is very rough and fatiguing at places, ascends gradually to the right from the Kirkestel (see below), leading between two small lakes to the watershed of the Fillefjeld (41/2-5 hrs.). which commands a magnifi- cent view ofJotunheim, the Suletind, the Jostedalsbrae, and other moun- tains and glaciers. and also of the loftily situated Tyin-Vand (p. 139). In descending towards the N. we pass the Sletterust, a fisherman‘s but at the W. end of the Tor'holmen- Vand, from which the Aar'dela issues. (From Sletterust to Breikvam and Eidsbugarden, see p. 98.) We then descend the seeter-track along the Aardela to Moen, whence we row in 21/2-3 hrs. to Aardal, see pp. 97, 98. The road from Nystuen to Maristuen traverses the monotonous Smeddal, a mountain-basin without pretension to grandeur. The old road led over the shoulder of the Suletind and past the Sule- nand, which forms the source of the Lcera, and then descended steeply to Maristuen, whence it presents the appearance of a grass- grown band ascending the mountain. Pedestrians are recommended to follow the old road, especially if they purpose ascending the Suletind (see above). At the Kirkestel (‘church chalet’) saeter, where the old road diverges to the left, there formerly stood a church dedicated to St. Thomas, in which the pastor of Vang performed divine service on. 2nd July annually. In connection with this service a kind of fair was also held, which, however, gave rise to such irregularities and excesses that in 1808 both service and fair were discontinued by order of the authorities, and the church was afterwards removed. Farther on we pass the Grenlidsazter and the marble Stette, or column, which marks the boundary between the Estenfjeldske Norge and the Vestenfjeldske Norge, and also that between the Christiania Stift and that of Bergen. It stands at the highest point of the road (3840 ft.), which then skirts the uninteresting Fillefjeld'vand and Smeddalsvand (3120 ft.), both of which are drained by the Law. Opposite to us rises the Sadel-Fjeld. We then ascend to the Brusesazter (3243 ft.), and descend thence, partly through birch- plantations, with the foaming Laera below us on the right, to -— 17 Kil. (pay for 25 in the reverse direction) iMaristuen (2635 ft.; *Station, good, though unpretending), the second ‘Fjeldstue’ on the Fillefjeld, originally founded by the clergy as a hospice in 1300. Notwithstanding the height of its situation, the air will be found perceptibly warmer than at Nystuen, as it not only lies lower, but is influenced by the more genial climate of the W. coast. The scenery, too, though still wild, is far richer and more pleasing than at Nystuen. Between this point and Hag the road descends 1150 ft., and the valley soon becomes more attractive. At the Bridge of Berlaug, 2 Kil. above Hag, the Valders and Hallingdal routes unite (see p. 81). We soon stop at ~— 94 Route 13. CHURCH or BORGUND. From-Christiania 17 Kil. '{rl-Iseg (1482 ft.; *Station, good, and more comfortable than the three last), where the grandest scenery of the *Laerdal, one of the most superb valleys in Norway, begins. The road follows the valley the whole way to Laerdalseren. The finest parts of this most picturesque route are the ravine between the Church of Bor- gund and Husum, and the rock and river scenery between Husum and Gaard Saeltun. Between Hzeg and Borgund the road is nearly level, traversing a basin which was once filled with a lake. At the S. end of this basin , about 12 Kil. from Haeg, rises the Vind- helle, a huge rocky barrier, through which the Laera has forced a passage. The new road, completed in 1872, leads through this ravine, at a considerable height above the wild and foaming river, while at various periods no fewer than four different old roads, still traceable, once traversed the Vindhelle itself. On the right, just before the road descends into the ravine, stands the extremely interesting *Church of Borgund, with its old Ktoclc- stapel or belfry. (The Skydsgut will procure the key from the neigh- bouring farm of Kirk'uotd; fee 40 0., for each member of a party 10 0.) This extraordinary, fantastic looking ‘Sta'vekirlce’, the best-preserved church of the kind in Norway, is believed to date from the 12th cent., but is now disused, service being held in the New Church adjoining. It is now the property of the Antiquarian ‘Society of Christiania. Every part of it is curious and interesting: the external passages, the numerous gables, the shingle-covered roofs and walls, surmounted with dragons’ heads, the lofty portal, the elaborate ornamentation consisting of two entwined snakes, and the almost quite dark and windowless interior. On the W. door are the Runic inscriptions —— Thorir raist runar thissar than Otau misso. (Thorer wrote these lines on St. Olaf’s fair.) Thittai kirkia a hirkiuvelti. (This church in the church-ground.) The church is described in the ‘Turistbref fran en Resa i Norge’ by Finn (Stockholm, 1876; pp. 93 et seq.), in ‘Fahrten durch Norwegen’ by Hartung _& Dullc (Stuttgart, 1877; pp. 232 et seq.), and in several English works on Norway. Comp. the description of the similar church of Hitterdal, given at pp. 21, 22. The traveller is recommended to follow the old road from Bor- gund Church to Husum, a walk of 1/2 hr., while his carriole takes fully as long to descend the ravine by the circuitous new road; but before doing so, he should visit the entrance to the ravine, where the wild and imposing scenery is enhanced by a fine waterfall (Svartegetfos). The high-road descends thence in windings through the picturesque ravine. Immediately above Husum is another picturesque waterfall of the Laerdalselv (Holgruten). -- The route now enters the district contained in the Map at p. 96. 12 Kil. j- Husum (*Station), being the central point of the finest to Lcerdalseren. LERDALSHREN. _ 13. Route. 95 scenery of the valley, is a good starting-point for excursions. Farther on lies another tolerably level basin, once likewise the bed of a lake, with the Higaa'rd, Kvama, Hougen, and other farms. Immediately beyond it the road enters another grand ravine, which the old road avoided by traversing the dangerous Galder (‘cliifs', ‘steep slopes’) to the right. The new road crosses the river and skirts the overhanging rocks close to its bank, where the water has worn a number of more or less perfect ‘Jazttegryder’, or ‘giant cauldrons’, showing distinctly how much higher the level of the torrent must once have been. At one point, not far below Husum, the old bed of the stream has even been utilised for the passage of the road, for which part of a ‘giant cauldron’ has also been hewn away, while the torrent now thunders along 100 ft. below. On the N. side of the ravine are Gaarden Galderne and the Store Sohne- fos, a strange spot for human habitations. — As soon as the ravine expands we come in sight of Gaarden Steltun, situated on the huge deposits (Shred) of a mountain-torrent. The valley is still confined between lofty and precipitous rocks. The road crosses the Laardalselv and follows its right bank; it then intersects the deposits of the Jutulelo and traverses a broader part of the valley, from which the Opdal, closed by the snow-clad Aaken (5690 ft.), diverges. Several extensive moraine-deposits are passed on this part of the route. 15 Kil. '1" Blaaflatcn (a poor station) lies a little to the left of the road, which is tolerably level for the rest of the way. The valley is still enclosed by lofty mountains, but the scenery is now corn— paratively uninteresting. Beyond the Bofos, a waterfall on the left, the road crosses the river and passes the church of Tenjum. By the farms of Em’. the valley suddenly trends towards the N., and we now obtain another view of the Aahen with its peculiar ridge resembling that of the Gausta in Thelemarken. The floor of the valley is well cultivated at places and sprinkled with farms, but the mountains are bare and rocky. The traces of numerous landslips and avalanches (Shred) are observable here. The valley finally turns towards the W., and we now pass on the right, near Hie, the picturesque Stenjumsfos, which descends in two falls from the Veta-Aas and Hagan-Acts. 11 Kil. Laerdalseren (* Lindstrem’s Hotel and Station, two large houses, rather dear, one on the left, and the other a little beyond it on the right, affording good accommodation), the ‘allu- vial plain of the Lzerdal river’, lies on a broad, level, and some— what marshy plain at the mouth of the Lcera, shut in by rocky and barren mountains, and affording a very limited view of the arm of the magnificent Sognefjord on which it is situated. To the E., at the head of the Oftedal, rises the Haugnaase (4075 ft.), and to the W. is the Freibottenfiield. The village, which boasts of a hand- some new timber-built church, a telegraph-station, and a few tolerable shops, is a poor place with 800 inhab., deriving its sole 96 " Route 14. ‘ SOGNEFJORD. importance from the fact that it forms the principal avenue of ap- proach on the land side to the Sognefjord, and also to Bergen (see pp. 97, 108). The steamboat pier is nearly 2 Kil. from the station (carriole 40-50 0. for each person, with luggage 60 0.). A pleasant walk may be taken along the bank of the fjord to (1/4 hr.) the winter- pier, used when the fjord is frozen, and on to Haugene in the Eierdal. 14. The Sognefjord. Comp. the Maps. STEAMBoATs. Although small boats are procurable at all the stations (fare 21, 31, 41 91. per Kil. for 2, 3 or 4 rowers), travellers are cautioned against engaging them for long distances, as their speed is usually slow, and the stations are very far apart. In making use of the steamers a careful consultation of ‘Norges Commum'catt'oner” (under the heading ‘Nordre Bergenhus Dampskibe‘) is absolutely necessary, as several interesting points in the ramifications of the fjord are only called at two or three times a week. The steamers are all well fitted up and have good restaur- ants on board (which provide wine and beer, but no spirituous liquors), but the sleeping accommodation is limited. If a night or part of a night has to be spent on board, the traveller should lose no time in securing a sofa or berth. The cabin fare is 40, the steerage 25, and the deck 15 a. per sea-mile (4 Engl. M.). The usual charge for a substantial breakfast with coffee is 11/2-2, for dinner 2, and for supper 1-11/2 kr. (fee discretionary, according to length of voyage). Comp. Introd. III. The *Sognefjord (from the old word ‘Sogne’, signifying a nar- row arm of the sea), the longest of all the Norwegian fjords, being 170 Kil. (106 Engl. long from Sognefest to Skjolden, and averaging 6 Kil. (4 Engl. in width, forms one of the most important highways of traffic in Western Norway, and also one of the most convenient avenues to some of the grandest and wildest scenery in the country. At places it is nearly 4000 ft. deep. Like all the Norwegian fjords, it is unattractive at its entrance, where the rocks have been worn away, partly by the action of the waves, and partly by that of the enormous glaciers with which the whole country was once covered. The scenery gradually improves as the traveller proceeds from W. to E., until the fjord at length ter- minates in a number of long and narrow arms bounded by lofty mountains rising at places to a height of 5000 ft., from which numerous waterfalls precipitate themselves into the depths be- low. At the upper extremities of the N. ramifications of the‘ fjord lie huge glaciers descending from the snow-mountains, including the Jostedalsbraa (‘Brae’ or ‘Brede’ signifying glacier), probably the largest glacier in Europe. In other parts of the fjord again the banks present a smiling and genial character, being fringed with luxuriant orchards and waving corn-fields, and studded with pleasant-looking dwellings.‘ At some points indeed (as at ‘Balholm , Sogndal, Amble, and Skjolden) the scenery of the fjord is not unworthy of comparison with that of the Lake of Lucerne, or even with that of the lakes of N. Italy. In the majestic grandeur of its mountains and glaciers, the Sognefjord far surpasses the 'Hardanger, but its general character is severe and at places desolate s \ ' ~ - - s . “in.” . . _ C Q Q a m . _ ‘ a ' ll ' Sldeu___ __ I-—_— A _ _ _ ’ ___M ‘l 1 I; ‘ “""" ha. _. ’ . . ""~‘° _- -w-F»,-.__ .q'“. , r. _-i I ’ v4’; . r v . r v‘ a ,.~ " I‘ u “I ‘ .' Us.» ) -_ - u ‘ rpm *9; a x .cdgiygg. _r. I“ a u,“ OI ifialkflf n ' ”’il’".'.mir att'mhlt’ititt o ‘ _;~trmn$(tr.m,, » that ~ } ‘r’ HAOODOO $~mMmwy.m .U, - , - u, ‘. ' ,1 R ,- . ...'. . . ‘*0 graph. Amish vnn "'~ —- u . _. l6 .9, ’ ‘t. ,. ‘V W‘ ‘ kedalsbri . as." - 11*» ‘ . ‘sfié. M‘ Babarsh‘ri ' ' w SW1 'Sognefiord. AARDAL. 14. Route. 97 and monotonous, while the waterfalls, as well as the softer scenery, of its southern rival unquestionably carry off the palm. —— Up to the point where the great ramifications of the Sognefjord begin, the climate is the same as that of the W. coast, being rainy and mild in winter and usually damp and cool in summer; but the seasons in its long and narrow arms are more similar to those pre- valent in' inland European countries. In winter a considerable part of these arms is usually frozen over, and although the ice is detached from the shore at its margins, being raised a couple of feet or more twice daily by the tide, it serves as a busy highway for sledge traffic. On these occasions the steamers of course cannot ply beyond the limits of the open water. The Inhabitants (Sognz'nger) of the banks of the fjord, which, with the adjoining country, are all embraced in the name of ‘Sogn’, appear to belong to two distinct races, those in the W. parts pos- sessing the placid Norwegian character, while those of the E. parts are remarkable for their vivacity, which shows itself in their hur- ried and almost incoherent mode of speaking. All, however, will be found uniformly obliging and hospitable to travellers. a. Aardalsfjord. Vettisfos. STEAMBOAT from Loerdalseren to Aardal twice weekly in 2 hrs. -— From Aardal to Marifjaeren. see p. 99. Lazrdatseren, see p. 95. At first the scenery of the fjord is comparatively uninteresting. To the left rises the Glipsfjeld, on the W. side of which opens the Vindedal. To the right is the Vetanaase, with the promontory of Fodnazs, round which the steamer steers. Farther on a fine view is obtained to the left of the Lysterfiord (p. 99), with the Haugmaelen; in the background the Jostedalsbrae (p. 102). To the S.W. towers the Blejan (p. 105). The steamer now enters the Aardalsfjord, the scenery of which is also somewhat monotonous. On the barren and rocky N. bank rises first the Bodtenakken and then the Brandhovd, between which lie the Ytre and Indre Oferdat. On the wooded S. bank is the station of Nadviken or Vikcdal. The Smheimsdal now opens to the N., and a little later the imposing amphitheatre of mountains around —- Aardal or Aardalstangen (*Jens Klingenberg’s Inn, to the right of the bridge), a small village situated upon an old coast—line, now considerably elevated above the fjord. Opposite rises the snow— clad Slettefield or Middagshaugen (4435 ft.). Aardal is the starting- point for a visit to the beautiful Vettisfos (1/2-1 day; p. 99), for a mountain-walk to Nystuen (1-11/2 day; p. 92), and for a. *Tour round the Horunger to Skjolden (4 days; comp. pp. 99, 159). Guide to Vetti desirable, and for the longer tours indispensable; Jens Klingenbcrg jun. may be recommended (4 kr. per day). Comp. p. 151. For the longer tours provisions must be taken from Aar- dal, as Vetti is the only place where tolerable food can be procured. Bannmmn’s Norway and Sweden. 2nd Edit. 7 98 Route 14. AARDALSVAND. Sognefijord. Passing the pretty church of Aardal and ascending along the Aardalselv, on the right bank of which lies the farm of Hereid, we reach in 1/,;hr. the Aardalsvand (13ft. above the sea), a beautiful lake, 19 Kil. (12 Engl. long, surrounded by precipitous cliffs and profound ravines, in which bears are still found. A boat on the lake carries us in 221/? hrs. (1 pers. 1 kr. 40, 2 pers. 2 kr. 20 e.) to Farnaes, at the N.E. end. To the right we see the Stegafjeld, with the precipitous Opstegene on its E. side; beyond lies the Fosdal with the Etdegaard, to which a zigzag path ascends past a waterfall. Farther on, high up to the right, is the Lest-Sazter, beyond which is the Midnteshamer, with the Eldeholt. To the left rises the huge and precipitous Bottnjuvkamb; to the right the ‘Plads’ or clearing of Gjeithus and the Raudnces. Then, also to the left, the Nondal, with several farms and the Nondalsfos. On rounding the Raudnaes we see Farntrs, whence a carriage-road ascends the Utladal to Gjelle. From Farnees a bridle-path ascends to the N.W. through the Far'dal or Langedal, passing the Aar'e and Stokke saeters, to the Mur'adn-Soeter, whence a path leads through the Lovardalsskar'd (4699 ft.), 3. ‘gap’ or de- pression at the foot of the Austabot-Tinder' and Solei-Tinder, into the Ber’- dal and to Gaarden Fuglsteg (2494 ft.), which lies almost perpendicularly above the valley of Fortun (p. 159). The descent to Fortun is excessively steep, whence probably is derived the name of Fuglsteg, or ‘bird-path’. The walk takes 8-1() hrs. in all (guide necessary, 4 kr.). Pedestrians do not land at Farnaes but at the ‘Plads’ Vee, a little to the right, on the left bank of the Utla, whence the path ascends to the (20 min.) ‘Plads’ Reti, where the Sitlefos becomes visible on the right and the junction of the Utla and the Aardela on the left. We cross the latter stream by (1/4 hr.) an old Nor- wegian bridge and then ascend to (5 min.) the Gaard Moen, where travellers bound for Nystuen (p. 92) or Eidsbugarden (see below) usually spend the night (native beer, coffee without milk, and sometimes fish are alone obtainable). FROM MOEN TO EIDSBUGARDEN, 10 hrs., an unattractive route (a horse should be taken as far as Breikvam). A saeter-track ascends past the numerous falls of the Aar'dela to the (21/23 hrs.) fisherman’s but of Sletterust, where the route to Nystuen mentioned at p. 93 turns to the 8., while another path leads to the N. of the Torholmen Vand, at the S. base of the Mansberg, to (2-21/2 hrs.) the ‘Feelaeger‘ of Breikvam on Lake Tyin. If a boat can be obtained we cross to Tvindehoug and reach the route to Eidsbugarden mentioned at p. 139:, if not we must walk round the N. end of the lake, fording the Koldedela. Our route continues to ascend. Below us to the left are the Utla and the farm of Volddal. We then descend to the (1/2 hr.) farm of Svalheim and ascend the Utla to (40 min.) Gjelle, with the large Gjellefos. Here begins the Vettisgjel, a narrow ravine (‘gjel’) 4-5 Kil. in length, bounded by cliffs of immense height, and endangered in winter and rainy weather by avalanches and land-slips. The bridle-path first descends to the left, crosses the river, and reaches Gaarden Skaaren, just beyond which there is another bridge (‘J ohannebro 1880’). Farther on the path and the turbulent Utla thread their way through a chaos of rocky debris. Sogne/fjord. VETTISFOS. 14. Route. 99 After 1/2 hr. we reach the *Afdalsfos (530 ft.), above which is a bridge. The scenery here is very imposing. The ravine ends 3/4 hr. farther on at the Heljabakfos, which is formed by the Utla as it bursts forth from a wall of rock. The steep path now ascends to the Hetjabakken, from which we have a view of the ‘Plads’ below, the Gaard Vetti above, and also of three small waterfalls to the left. In 25 min. more we reach —— Gaard Vetti (1092 ft.; capital accommodation at Anfind Vetti’s). A rough path (guide unnecessary) ascends hence, at first gradually and then rapidly, to (1 hr.) the *Vettisfos, or Vettismorkafos, a fall of the Morlcadela, about 900 ft. in height, the finest fall in the Sogne district. An eminence on the right bank commands an admirable view of the fall, but a closer approach may be made by crossing a somewhat precarious-looking bridge to the left bank. The ascent of the Store Skagastelstind (7875 ft.), formerly considered like that of the Matterhorn almost impossible, but now looked upon as comparatively easy, is usually accomplished from Gaard Vetti, with the assistance of Jens Klingenberg of Aardal as guide. The route crosses the Utla and then ascends the steep Stetsmar'adal to the Maradals-Sceter, where the night is spent. Next morning we make an early start, cross the ‘Naes’ into the Midtmaradal, and ascend this valley to the Mz'dtmaa'a- dalsbraz, 3 hrs. Our route then leads us over the glacier to its head (3600 ft.), also 3 hrs. After ascending for 1 hr. more we reach the ridge (5040 ft.) between the Midtmaradal and the Skagastelsdal, whence the final and steep climb to the top of the peak takes 2-21/2 hrs. more. The "‘CIRCULAR TOUR ROUND THE HORUNGER (with guide, see above and p. 151; a horse must be obtained at Farnees or Gj elle) is best arranged as follows. 1st Day: To Guard Vettz'. with a visit to the Vettisfos (see above). 2nd Day: Via the Vettismorka-Soeter and the Fleskedals-Soeter (p. 154) to the Skogadalsbeen (p. 156) in 7-8 hrs., or in 3/4 hr. more to the highest Guridats-Socter (p. 156). 3rd Day: Across the Keiser Pass (p. 153) to the Skagasterls—Seeters (pp. 153, 160), and ascent of the Dyrhaugstind (p. 160). 4th Day: Via Fortun to Skjolden, 11/2-2 hrs. —- Several moun- tain-ascents may be combined with this magnificent tour, such as the Store Skagastelstz'nd (see above) and the Stelsnaastind (p. 154) from Gaard Vetti; the Styggedalstz'nd (p. 156) from Skogadalsbcven, the Fanaraalc (p. 156) and the Styggedalsbotn (p. 160) from the Helgedals~Saeter. — Com- fortable accommodation is obtained at Vetti alone; but the seeters of the Fleskedal, Skagastel. and Riingadn are at least clean. A supply of pro- visions must be brought from Aardal. b.v Lysterfjord. Jostedal. STEAMBOATS from Loerdalseren and from Aardal, two or three times weekly. The *Lysterfjord, the N.E. and longest (25 Engl. M.) ramifi- cation of the Sognefjord, presents a series of wild mountain land- scapes, diversified by beautiful scenery of a softer type. On the W. side rises the precipitous Haugmaet (3811 ft.). In 21/4 hrs. after leaving Aardal the steamer reaches —— j-Solvorn (*Hotel), a skyds-station, prettily situated on a bay in the W. bank of the fjord. The ‘Serenskriver’, or district-judge, inhabits the large building to the left. In the background rise _ the snow-clad mountains encircling'the Veitestrands'vand. A hilly‘ road leads from Solvorn to the (2 Kil.) Hafsto- Vand, the banlo 7 a: 100 Route 14. MARIFJjEREN. Sognefio'rd. of which is skirted by the road from Marifjaeren to Sogndal mentioned below. —— About 2 Kil. to the N. of the point where the two roads meet lies Hillestad (poor station; 4 Kil. from Solvorn, pay for 5), where guides and horses are obtained for an ascent of the Molden. From Hillestad the road leads via Hafslo, with a church and parson- age, to (8 Kil.) the S. end of the Vettesta'andsvand (640 ft.), a lake 13 Kil. in length. We then row to the other end of the lake, where accommo- dation for the night can, if necessary, be obtained at the farm of Hegge- strand. Thence on foot across the snow-fields of the S. Jostedalsbree (p. 102-) and through the Vet'teslrandsshard to the Suphelle-Sazter and on to Fjcc-rland (p. 110), a fatiguing tour of a whole day (guide and pro- visions necessary). On the promontory opposite Solvorn, in a charming situation, lies Urnaes, with its ancient ‘Stavekirke’ and ‘giant tumuli’ (Kazm- pehouge). To the left towers the huge Molden (3665 ft.). On the right; about 1/2 hr. after leaving Solvorn, we pass the Guard Ytre Krohen, famed for its orchards. A view is now obtained of the Jostedalsbrae to the N.W., to the left of which is the Leirmohovd and to the right the hills of the Krondal (see below). In 1/2 hr. more the steamer touches at -— Marifjaeren (*Jacob Theroi’s Inn), prettily situated on the Gaupnefjord, a branch of the Lysterfjord, and the best starting- point for a visit to the Jostedal (11/2-2 days; see p. 101). A beau- tiful walk may be taken hence up the hill to the N.W. to the old church of Joranger, which commands a magnificent view of the fjord and the Feigumsfos, a waterfall 720 ft. high on the E. bank. To the S. of Marifjaeren is Gaarden Hundshammer, whence part of the Jostedalsbrae is visible towards the N. On the beach are observed a number of large stones, which have been forced up in to their present position by the ice covering the fjord in winter.— At the N.W. extremity of the Gaupnefjord lies Rancid (p. 102), 3 Kil. distant, reached by small boat in 1/2 hour. (or by road). THE ROAD FROM MABIFJJEREN 'ro SOGNDAL (22 Kil., pay for 38) affords a beautiful walk (6-7 hrs.) or drive (56 hrs.). Horses must be ordered in good time, as the station is a ‘slow’ one. The hilly road passes the base of the Molden (see above), which is veryv steep and not easily as- cended on this side, and follows the course of the Bygdeelv. On the right, above us, lies Joranger. We pass a number of farms and cottages, chiefly on the sunny side (Solsz'de) of the valley, and plantations of birches and elders. A little to the right lies Fet, with its old church. At the highest point of the road (about 1200 ft.) we obtain a view of the distant snow-mountains to the S. of the Sognefjord, including the Fresviksbra: and the Rambrae. During the somewhat steep descent we obtain a magnificent “‘VIEW of the scattered village of Hafslo with the Hafslovand and the mountains of the Sognefjord, and at our feet lies —— 8 Kil. (pay for 14) +Hillestad, see above. Beyond Hillestad the road skirts the E. bank of the Hafslovand and traverses a pine-wood, through which glimpses are obtained of the lake and the Jostedalsbrae to the N. The Solvorn road diverges here to the left. -— Beyond Gaarden Olclevig the road attains its highest point, and then descends the numerous zigzags of *Gildreskreden (Shrez'en), where great caution is necessary in driving. Near the beginning of them is St. Olafskilde, a spring from which sick persons sometimes drink, de- youtly making the sign of the cross with two sticks. In descending we obtain a magnificent view of the fjord. On our right rushes the O'I’rb'i- elv, descending from the Veitestrand and Hafslo lakes, and forming the Sognefjord. SKJOLDEN. 14. Route. 101 Helvetesfos and Futesprang. Below us lies Naglerren. The road now skirts the Barsnoesfjord. The glacier-worn rocks, with large isolated boulders resting on them at places, should be observed here. The vegetation gradu- ally becomes richer, and oaks, elms, and ashes begin to appear. Passing through the Berhut, a curious aperture in the rock, the road ascends to the heights of Kvam, which afford another splendid view. At Gaao'den Loftenoes, on the opposite bank, the fjord contracts to a narrow channel, and the Sogndalsfjord now begins. We then reach -% Hofstund, the station for the adjacent Sogndal (p. 109), 14 Kil. (pay for 19) from Ht'llestad. The upper part of the Lysterfjord is grand and picturesque, somewhat resembling the Lake of Lucerne. The steamer passes Nazs, near the mouth of the Gaupnefjord, on the left, and the im- posing Fez'gumsf'os, a fine waterfall of two leaps, 1400 ft. in height, on the right, and next stops (1 hr.) at "1* Desen (*Inn), charmingly situated on the W. bank, near the old stone church of Date. From Desen the traveller may ascend the Datedal by a horse-track, passing several farms and sectors, to Gaard Kt'len, beyond which there is a steep climb over the Vz'dde of Storhougen (2600 ft.) to the Vtgdats- Soeter. The path then descends to the W. through the Vt'gdal, passing the Buskrednaase on the right, to the gaards of Here and Nedre Vt'gdal. From the latter the path leads across a hill and then descends abruptly to the Ormbergstel. We then cross the Jostedalselv to Myktemyr (p. 103) or proceed towards the N. to Gaard Ot'mberg and over the bridge (p.103) to the road leading to the church of Jostedal (p. 103), 27 Kil. from Desen (a fatiguing walk of 910 hrs.; guide necessary). ' From Desen the steamer proceeds (twice a week) in another hour to Skjolden(*1nn), prettily situated at the end of the Lyster- fjord. To the E. rises the snow-clad Fanaraak; in the foreground, to the right, is Eide; to the left is Bolstad. Skjolden lies at the entrance of the sombre Morkereidsdal, which is about 12 Engl. M. in length and contains the pleasant farms of shale, Bolstad, Thohaug, Moen, and Markeret'd. Beyond these are several saeters: the Km‘- vebakke-Saater to the left, the Dul-Scete'r and the Dalen-Sccter to the right, and then the Fosse-Soeter and the Rausdals-Sazte-r. On both sides lofty fjelds and glaciers rise abruptly from the valley (comp. the Map, p. 96). From the Rausdals-Saeter we may proceed to the W. over the Fjeld and through the Martedal and Fagerdat to the Gaard Faaberg (p. 104) in the J ostedal (one day). From Skjolden to the Fortundal, the Horunger, and to Rejshjem, see pp. 158, 148-151. EXCURSION TO THE J OSTBDAL. This excursion takes 11/2-2 days. On arriving at Mamfjwren (p. 100) the traveller Should immediately order a carriage, and take dinner while it is being got ready. The drive to Sperle or Jostedat, where the night is spent, takes 5-6 hrs., while the walker can complete the distance in almost as short a time. On the following morning we walk or drive to Kroken (2 hrs.) and the Nt'gardsbraa, returning to Marifjaeren the same afternoon. —- As the stations of Marifjoeren, Myklemyr, and Kroken are all ‘slow’, it is usual to hire the Stolkjaerre for the whole tour (to Kroken and back 8 kr.). Riding is not recommended (horse 7 kr.) Those who wish to pass from the upper Jostedal to the Nordfjord proceed from Kroken, after visiting the Nigardsbrae, to (3/4 hr.) the Guard Faaberg, where they ,dine and obtain a guide for the glacier. The night is spent in Faabeo'gsterl, and Gredung t‘ Stryn (p. 188) is reached next day. As the guides in summer prefer to cross the Jostedalsbrae at night, it is desirable to reach Faabergstgl early in the afternoon. so as to have time for several hours’ sleep. 102 Route 14. JOSTEDAL. Sognefiiord. The *Jostedal, like almost all the Norwegian valleys, is a rocky rift or ravine in the midst of a vast plateau of snow and ice. The W. part of this plateau consists of the Jostedalsbrce, the most extensive glacier in Europe (470 Engl. sq. M. ), with its ramifi- cations the Hestebroe, Tvazrdalsbme, Vasdalsbrw, and Reilcedals— but, while the E. half is formed by the Spm'tegb'raz and numer- ous snow-clad ‘Nasser’. The sides of the plateau enclosing the narrow Jostedal, which is watered by the Jostedalselv, are usually almost perpendicular. At intervals they recede, forming wider basin-like openings in the valley, which are accompanied by barriers of rock running athwart the stream and indicating the different zones of the valley. The sides of the valley, sometimes attaining a height of 3000 ft., are generally wooded, and are often broken up by transverse rifts and crevices, from which mountain-streams and waterfalls descend into the valley. The glaciers ( ‘J ekler’) and snow-fields (‘Fonner’) are, however, scarcely visible, till we reach the head of the valley, where parts of the Jostedalsbrae come into view. The Nigardsbroe in particular pro- jects far into the valley near Kroken, and having been long known and frequently explored by Forbes, De Seue, Durocher, Bohr, Naumann, and others, has made the Jostedal the most celebrated of the glacier-valleys of Norway. — The whole valley forms a single parish with a population of 850 souls, most of whom live in rather prosperous circumstances. Lately, however, many of them have emigrated to America. Grain is cultivated as far as the Nigardsbraz. The heat in midsummer is excessive, and in winter the thermometer sometimes falls 30° below zero (FahL). Mam'fjazren, see p. 100. The road skirts the base of the pre— cipitous mountains on the W. bank of the Gaupnefjord. 3 Kil. Rarneid (*Jacob Moland’s Inn), which we may also reach by small boat (1/2 hr.). Carriages may generally be procured here. The delta which the Jostedalselo here forms as it falls into the fjord contains several small farms and the church of Gaupne. Above it rises the Raubergsholten. The road ascends the Jostedal on the right bank of the river, which is turbulent and muddy. Until late in the afternoon the road is quite exposed to the sun. The bottom and slopes of the valley are here carefully cultivated. The road skirts an old moraine and crosses the [foams-Elv. At this point begins a series of huge and shapeless rocks, which flank the road all the way to Leirmo. In front of us rises the Leirmohood. After crossing the Fondela, the road turns to the right to the gorge of Hausadn (‘Hausane’, the houses), whence a retrospect is obtained of the twin peaks of the Asbjmnnaase (5270 ft.). From the rocky wall on the right the Ryfos falls into the valley. A little farther on we reach the first of the curious basin-like expansions of the Jostedal (see above), which takes its name from the hamlet of Leirmo, on the hill to the left. Sognefiiord. . MIKLEMYR. 14. Route. 103 (From Leirmo we may visit the Tunsbergdatsbrw, 8 Engl. M. in length, the most important of the offshoots of the Jostedalsbrae.) Our route crosses the foaming Tunsbergdals-Etv near a pictur- esque saw-mill. To the right towers the precipitous Kolnaase. The river now expands and a little farther up fills the whole floor of the valley. 14 Kil. Alsmo, situated upon an old moraine (‘mo’). Soon after the road ascends through the rocky and wooded Haugaasgjel, or gorge of the Haugaasen, for about 300 yds. Almost perpen- dicularly below us, to the right, are the Jostedalselv and the Vigdela, which here form several fine falls. To the left a glimpse is obtained of part of the Jostedalsbrae. A little farther on we obtain a fine *View of .the deep and imposing basin of Myklemyr, formerly occupied by a lake; to the right is the Gjet, used in win- ter by sledges, while to the left is the Ho-mpekulen, above which lies the Hompedals-Sa’ter. Directly opposite to us, to the right, is the Vangsen (see below), the loftiest mountain in the Jostedal. We now descend rapidly into the basin, which has been frequently devastated by the river, passing the farms of Myten, Teigla, and Hen. Then — 22 Kil. Myklemyr (accommodation at Anders’; slow station). The route now traverses a narrower part of the valley, passing the large farm of Or-mberg on the right, and then enters another small basin, with the farms of Fossen and Dalen. A narrow *Gorge, with a bridge leading to Ormberg (see p. 101), connects this basin with the next, which contains the Sperleeen on the left, and the farm of Aasen on the right. The road then crosses a rocky barrier, from the top of which a good view is obtained of the Liaaslen, the Jostedalsbrce, and the basin of Sperle. Passing a school on the right we now reach Gaarden Sperle (tolerable quarters), above which, to the left, is the waterfall of the same name, descending from the Listetsbrce. Beyond Sperle we ascend a steep incline, at the top of which we pass through wood and cross the Nedre Lid, where the ‘Gjel’, or ravine, of that name opens to the right. In about 3/4 hr. we reach another beautiful basin, in which lies the — Jostedals-Kirke (658 ft.). Good accommodation is obtained here at the house of the clergyman (‘Sogneprest’), who, however, refuses all remuneration. Travellers who accept his hospitality usually show their appreciation of it by sending him a memento of their visit on reaching home. Beyond the church we pass, on the left, the Balckefos, which descends from the Strondafijeld, and near it the Bore Gaard. An- other wide expansion is then reached, into which the Gjeitsdela precipitates itself in three beautiful falls. To the SE. rises the imposing Vangsen (5712 ft.), with a large glacier on its N.E. slope, which may be visited from Jostedal (4 hrs.). Between the valleys of Vanddal and Gjeitsdal, which here open to the right, is 104 Route 14. I NIGARDSBRJE. Sognefjord. the pyramidal peak of the Myrhorn, rising from the great Sperteg- brce behind. At the Gaard Gjeidet (1 hr. from the church; milk), we cross the stream issuing from the Krondal, which is flanked on the right by the Haugenaase (4260 ft.) and on the leftyby the Vetlenibben and Grenneshredbrce. ~ > A path ascends hence through the Krondal and then to the left through the Raihedal, crossing the height at the head of the latter, to the Tunsbergdalsbrte, whence we may descend to the Tunsbergdal and via Letrmo to the road in the Jostedal (see p. 102). — We may also ascend the Tunsbergdalsbrse to its head and then cross the Jostedalsbree at its widest part (highest point 6685 ft.), but this is a very fatiguing and some- times dangerous route (12-14 hrs.). On the other side we reach the farms of Ncesdal (p. 190). Farther on the road crosses a hill, which affords a fine retro- spect of the part of the valley just traversed. In the other direction the view of the Nigardsbrze now opens before us, the best point of view being the bridge at the Berge-Sazter. 10 Kil. Kroken (‘slow’ station; poor quarters), where guides for the glacier are procured (25-50 0.). From the bridge we pro- ceed to the left to the lowest gaard, and then on to the highest, named the Nigard. Hence the route ascends the old moraine (‘Brae- Vos’), which commands a magnificent view of the *Nigardsbrm, a huge stream of ice between the Haugenaase (4260 ft.) and the Liaarlen. A descent to the edge of the glacier is not recommended. The walk from Kroken to the moraine and back occupies 1 hr., that to the margin of the glacier and back the same time. FROM KROKEN ACROSS THE JOSTEDALSBRJE 'ro GREDUNG r STRYN (on the Nordfjord), 12-14 hrs. (guide 16-24 kr.). A good saeter-track ascends to (3/4 hr.) Gaard Faaberg (1314 ft., tolerable quarters), where Rasmussen Larsen Faaberg, the best guide, lives. The traveller should find out in Jostedal or Kroken if he is at home, and if not should hire another guide at Kroken. [From Faaberg a path leads through the Fagerdal to the Markereidsdal, see p. 101.] The path then ascends, between the Liaarlen and the Hamrene, to the Bjernestegadn-Soeter in the Stordal and (11/2 hr.) the szeter Faaberg- $12.61 (1870 ft., tolerable quarters), where the night is usually spent. To the W., immediately above the saeter, extends the Faabergstelbrae. We now ascend the desolate Stordal, passing the Oi-Soeter, where the path to the Gudbrandsdal over the Hanspikje, mentioned at . 162, diverges to the right. Farther on we keep to the left and in fl/z hr. reach the Lodalsbraz (5350 ft.), which we ascend to the right to the Joste- dalsbraa. The highest point of the latter is reached to the right of the Lodalslcaupe (about 6800 ft.). This ascent is very fatiguing, but the view is one of surpassing grandeur. The descent to Gredung takes 5-6 hrs. We first cross the creviced Gredungsbrw or Erdalsbroe, which lies between the Stornaase and the Klubben (5150 ft.), and then descend by a very rugged path past the Skaarene to the lower end of the glacier (2300 ft.). The valley now be- comes less steep, and the saeter of Gredungsstel and the gaard of Gredung are reached without farther difficulty (see p. 188). c. Aurlandsfjord and Naerefjord. S'rEAMBoA'rs. There are usually two steamers weekly from Loerdals- arm to Gudvangen vifi. Aurland, and two to Gudvangen direct. Lardalseren, see p. 95. -— Opposite the promontory of Fod- Sogneflord. AURLANDSFJORD. 14. Route. 105 nazs (p. 97) opens the valley of Vindedal, with the Store G'raa- naase. Farther on, to the left, rise the Gtipsfiield and, beyond Refnwstangen, the huge Blejan (see below). To the right, charm- ingly situated on the Amblebugt (p. 108), lies Amble (Inn), which is usually touched at only by the steamers going to Bergen. In front of us is the Fresviksfjetd, with its glaciers. The steamer then passes the Indre Freningen and calls at (11/2 hr.) Ytre Freningen on the main fjord. On a green plateau, about 400 ft. higher, lies the School House, attended by the children of this very scattered district. From Ytre Froningen the huge *Blejan (5560 ft.) may be ascended in 6-7 hrs.; it commands an admirable view of the Sognefjord, the Joste- dalsbree, the Horunger, the Jotunheim Mts., the Hallingdal, and Voss. The fjord itself is best seen from the brink of the Lemeggen (5190 ft.), a cliff descending almost perpendicularly to the N. -— 'l‘he ascent from Froningen is steep. An easier route is from Vindedal (see above, poor accommodation), which may be reached from Laerdalsoren by small boat. The best plan is to pass the night at the V'mdedals-Soeter, 11/2 hr. above Vindedal and 2-3 hrs. from the top. The steamboat turns to the left and steams round the Saganws into the *Aurlandsfjord (see the Map, p. 96), passing Fresvik (p.108), and the precipitous Nuten to the right. To the N .W. lies Lekanger (p. 109), below the Gunvordsbraz; to the S. rises the Sy'rdatsfjetd with the Steganaase (see below). The Aurlands— fjord and the Nazrefjord which diverges from it (see below) are two enormous ravines with precipitous rocky banks, 3000-4000 ft. in height, forming the slopes of the higher mountains behind, most of which are not visible from the lake. As these banks are intersected at places by side-valleys descending to the lake, they are often divided into sections somewhat resembling the lofty gables of mediaeval houses. Being rocky and barren, they are al- most entirely uninhabited; but houses are occasionally observed high above the lake, perched on some apparently inaccessible rock. Over these abrupt slopes are frequently precipitated waterfalls of great height, partly perpendicularly, and partly in the form of streaks of foam gliding over the dark-brown rock, and reflected in their whole length in the unruffled water of the sombre fjord. Their monotonous murmur alone breaks the profound silence of the scene. The first place in the Aurlandsfjord is Buene, to the left, with a ‘slide’ for shooting down timber from the forests above. Then Simlenws, with a waterfall, to the right, and Brednazs or Breinazs, a group of poor houses on the left. The Kolarelo and Kotartop are also seen to the left. We next pass the entrance to the Naerefjord (between Nazrenazs and Beiteln) on the right, and enter the S.E. arm of the Aurlandsfjord. On the hill to the right are the Stag-Sorters, with two waterfalls. To the left a precipitous slope with the gaards of Nedberge. Farther on, to the right, is Underdal, prettily situated, with a church, whence the Steganaase (‘ugly’ or ‘terrible nose’; 1006 Route 14 . NEROFJORD. Sognefjord. 5665 ft.), the highest peak of the Sy'rdalsfjeld, may be ascended via the Melhus-Sceter. Opposite, to the E., rises the long Flenje-Eg, to the N. of which rises the double-peaked Jelben, to the S. the Flenjanaasi (4840 ft.). The fjord now widens considerably. The mouths of several deep ravines are passed. To the left the gaard of Slcje'rdal. The steamer stops at —— Aurland or Aurlands'vangen (*Brun’s Inn, suitable for a long stay), the principal hamlet in the Vasbygd, with a small stone church, from which a route leads past the Aurlandsvand, up the imposing Golder of Sennerheim, to the Hallingdal (see pp. 83, 84). The interesting Flaamsdal (Flaam or Flaum signifying a flood, or swollen river) may be visited by rowing to Gaarden Frethez'm, at the head of the fjord, 6 Kil. distant from Aurland, and walking or riding thence along the Moldaelv to Gaarden Melhus (1294 ft.), where the night may be spent, or to Gaa'rden Kaardal, the highest house in the valley (3-4 hrs.). The finest points in the Flaamsdal are the hill above the church of Flaam, the Riondefos, Vt'besnaast', and the Be'rakvamsgjel (Gjel or Gil, ‘cleft’, ‘ravine'). FROM AURLAND 'ro VOSSEVANGEN (3 days). lst Day: to Kaardal, as above. 2nd Day (guide desirable as far as Opstral): a steep ascent of about 2000 ft. to the Gravahals (Hals signifying ‘pass’; 3728 ft.), following the telegraph-wires; then a descent to the Rundehoug-Soeter and 0pstal in the district of Voss, whence the path follows the Runolalselv to Al- mendz'ngen (in all 1244 hrs.). 3rd Day: bridle-path to (17 Kil.) Kleve, and road thence to (9 Kil.) Vossevangen. — Above Klctve is the so-called Sver- restt' (‘Sverre’s path’). which is said to have been traversed by King Sverre and the Birkebeiner in 1177 (see p. xlix). -— From the head of the Randal, which is entered a little to the S. of the Gravahals, and which will eventually be traversed by the Bergen and Christiania Rail- way, another route, diverging to the left, leads to (6-7 hrs.) Ose on the Osefjord, a branch of the Hardanger (p. 59). A rough mountain-track also leads from Almendingen direct to (6—7 hrs.) Ulvik (p. 58). FROM AURLAND T0 LACRDAL (2 days). This is an interesting route for pedestrians, traversing magnificent mountain-scenery. 1st Day: steep ascent of about 4000 ft. between the Blaaskavl (Skavl, ‘snow-drift’) on the N. and Haz'skm'smlten on the 8., and afterwards passing the lofty Hodn- snipe on the right, to the Hodnsazter (8 hrs.). —- 2nd Day: to the Skaa- lesceter and ascend the Baa'shagda (4635 ft.), commanding a fine view as far as the Horunger, and of the J'aranaasi with the Troldelifijeld. A rough saeter~path then descends to the (7 hrs.) church of Temjum in the Loerdal (p. 95), from which Lazrdalseren is 10 Kil. distant by the high-road. The steamer now retraces its course for some distance, afl'ord7 ing a fine view of the Troldskilholt to the N.W., steers round the peninsula of Beiteln, and enters the strikingly grand and severe *Naerofjord, the S.W. branch of the Aurlandsfjord, 12 Engl. M. in length (comp. the Map, p. 96). At the entrance to this fjord we see in the distant the lofty mountains on the W. side of the Na’radal (p. 107). To the left rises the peak of the Krogegg, to the right the Luegdeelo, a waterfall nearly 1000 ft. high. Farther on a fine view is enjoyed to the left of the snowy amphitheatre of the Steganaase, beyond which is the Gjeiteggen, lying even at noonday in a dark shadow. A little beyond Dyrdal, which lies on the right, at the mouth of the valley of that name, the fjord contracts to a narrow defile, bounded by precipitous rocky mountains of immense height. On the left rises the Middagsberg, at the foot of which lies Styoe. Sognefjord. GUDVANGEN. 14. Route. 107 Farther on a number of falls descend from the snow-fields to the left, while the Dyrfjeld rises to the right. We next pass, on the left, the Rauegg and the Nissedalselo, the latter descending from the Store Breeen and the Skammedalsheidn, neither of which is visible from the steamer. To the right is a magnificent waterfall, upwards of 3000 ft. high, descending from the Ytre Baklcen. The fjord now turns more to the S., and comes in sight of the waterfall of the Bakloeelo and the church of Bakke, with a cluster of poor cottages. Pleasant walk hence to Gudvangen by the road. The mountains of the Naeredal are now very prominent. This is pro- bably the finest part of the fjord. Farther on, several waterfalls are seen on both sides. At the landing-place of Gudvangen the water is shallow, and passengers are landed in small boats. jLGudvangen (*Helland’s Hotel; *Hansen’s Inn and Station; charges at both, R. 1, B. 1, D with beer 2 kr.), a hamlet on the Naredalselo, at the head of the Naerefjord, 5 min. from the landing- place, lies in so confined a situation that it is not reached by the sun’s rays throughout the whole winter. On the E. rises the Sjer- penut, on the W. the Solbjergenut. From the Kilsboten, to the N. of the former, is precipitated the *Kilefos, a waterfall resembling the Staubbach, 1850 ft. in height, beginning with a perpendicular fall of 500 ft. and terminating in a cataract. On the right of the fall is the Hestncesfos and on the left the Nautefos, which unite with it at one point and afterwards separate. Gudvangen is the best starting-point for an excursion to the *Nzeredal (a walk or drive of 5-6 hrs, there and back), which forms the landward continuation of the fjord and preserves the same wild and imposing character. About 20 min. from Gudvan- gen the road crosses the exquisitely clear river. To the right towers the huge Jordalsnut (3600 ft.), which consists of light-gray felspath. On the rocky precipices on either side are seen traces of the numerous avalanches (Slcreder) which fall into the valley in the early part of the summer. The road gradually ascends past the houses of Sjerping and Hylland, and (about 9 Kil. from Grud- vangen) reaches the *Stalheimsklev (Klee, ‘cliff’), a precipitous slope, about 1000 ft. in height, which terminates the valley. The road ascends the ‘Klev’ by means of sixteen somewhat steep zig- zags, the ascent of which takes nearly an hour. On the right is the *Se'vlefos, on the left the *Stalheimsfos, two picturesque water- falls. Looking back from the top of the pass (1120 ft.), we enjoy a very striking **View of the profound and sombre Naeredal, with the huge rounded rocky summit of the Jordalsnut on the left, the Kaldafield (4265 ft.) and the Aaxlen on the right, and the Kilefos in the distance, near Gudvangen. Somewhat nearer us is the mountain-route of Naalene, leading from the Gaard Breekke to the Gaard Jordal. This view is justly considered one of the grandest in Norway. A little beyond the summit of the pass we reach -—— 108 Route 14. FRESVIK. Sognefjord. 13 Kil. (pay for 17 in the reverse direction) 'l-Stalheim i Vosse- stranden (see p. 78). d. From Laerdalsaren to Bergen by Steamer. The W. Sognefjord. 31 M. STEAMBOAT from Loerdalsm'en to Bergen 3—5 times weekly in 14-24 hrs. (fares 12 kr. 40, 7 kr. 75 5.). Each of the steamers slightly varies its route on each trip, so that it is only at the most important stations that they touch regularly in each direction. Such stations are indicated in the present route by being printed in heavy type. (See ‘Communi- cationer‘.) The distance between the stations are given in Norwegian nautical miles, one of which is equal to 4 Engl. M. Lazrdatseren (p. 95), as already mentioned, is the most im- portant place on the Sognefjord, being the starting-point of the routes to Christiania through Valders and through the Hallingdal, and also of the local steamers to the western branches of the Sogne- fjord, which have been already described. The first station on the steamboat route from Laerdal to Bergen is -— 2 M. Amble , see p. 105. A road leads hence, passing Gaar- den Hez'berg, to (‘2 Kil.) Kaupanger, beautifully situated at the head of the Bay of Amble, which somewhat resembles a large crater. It is not a steamboat-station. The small Stavelci'rlce, now restored, dates from the time of King Sverre (12th cent.). The landscape is diversified here by a number of fine elms and ashes. From Amble to Sogndal the steamer usually takes 2% hrs. or more, having a circuit of 25 Engl. M. to perform, while the direct distance is only 8 M. FROM AMBLE To SoGNDAL (13 Kil.). The direct route is by a good road to (2 Kil.) Kaupanger (see above), beyond which it ascends, com- manding a magnificent retrospect of the Sognefjord and particularly of the precipitous slopes of the snow-clad Blejan (p. 105). The road then enters a pine-forest, and descends past several large farms (each provided with a ‘Stabbm" and belfry with the ‘Maulklaukka’, or bell to summon the labourers to meals) to (7 Kil.) Eide (a poor station). A road skirting the Eidsfjord leads hence to (6 Kil.) Loftes-nazs, a substantial farm-house opposite Sogndal, to which the traveller crosses the Sogndalsfio-rd by boat. It is, however, preferable to row from Eide to Sogndal (6 Kil., in 1 hr., boat with two rowers 1 kr. 8 21.), passing the picturesque Storhoug, a mountain furrowed by avalanches, and traversing the Eddsfjord, in which herrings (Sild) are frequently caught in large numbers. To the N.W. rise several snow-clad mountains. The water in this bay is almost entirely fresh on the surface, but is salter in its lower strata. ‘2 M. Franingen (p. 105), at which the larger steamers rarely touch, lies on the S. bank of the fjord, and is reached in 11/2 hr. from Amble. 1% M. Fres'vilc, a small station on the S. bank ofthe Sognefjord, at the entrance to the Aurlandsfjord (p. 105), lies at the N. base of the Nonhaug (Non, ‘noon’, or rather ‘2 or 3 p.m., when the sun appears over this Haug). To the E. is Nuten with the Saltlcjelnazs. A very interesting excursion may be taken to the Fresvik Glacier to the S.W. (driving practicable part of the way). A mountain path leads hence through the Tundal and Jordal to (8 hrs.) Stal- heim (see above), on the road from Gudvangen to Vossevangen. Sognefiord. SOGNDAL. 14. Route. 109 The steamer now steers towards the N., passing the promon- tories of Hensene (‘the poultry’) and Meisen, and enters the narrow Sogndalsfjord, an arm of the Sognefjord about 10 Engl. M. in length. On the left Gaarden Lunden; on the right is Fimreite, on a fertile hill, commanded by the mountain of that name (2575 ft.) rising above it. On 15th June, 1184, Magnus Erlingsson was signally defeated and slain here by King Sverre. Passing through the narrow Norefjord (with the peninsula of Nordnaes on the left), we enter the Sogndalsfjord strictly so called, the smiling banks of which form one of the best cultivated districts in Norway. On the left rises Olmheims Kirke. Fardal lies at the mouth of the Zverste Dal. On the right opens the Eidsfjord, on the bank of which rises the Storhoug (3940 ft.). On the left lies Gaa'rden Stedje (or Steie), with its thriving orchards. 3 M. Sogndal (*Hotel, R. 80, 13.80, D. 1 kr. 50 0.), consisting of Sogndalshirke, Hofslund, and Sogndalsfjazren (Fjazre, ‘beach’), reached by steamer in 11/2 hr. from Fresvik, lies on an old moraine through which the Sogndalselv has forced a passage. The beauty of the situation is enhanced by the lofty mountains in the neigh- bourhood (Storhougen, to the 8.; Skrz'ken, 4120 ft., to the W.; and Njulcen, to the N., which last may easily be ascended in 31/2 hrs.), and by the comfortable-looking farm-houses on the banks of the fjord, among which that of Aaberge to the N. is especially conspicuous. After the battle of Fimreite the victorious Birke— beiner are said to have burned a hundred farm-houses here in one day. A pleasant walk may be taken on the bank of the river to the Waterfall, where there are several mills, and then to the S. to the picturesque timber-built Church, a Bautastein adjoining which bears the Runic inscription: ‘Olafr konungr saa ut mille staina thessa’. The road may then be followed to Stedje, with its two large Kampehouge(‘giant tumuli’), whence we may return to Sogn- dalsfjaeren by boat (an excursion of 1 hr. in all). FROM SOGNDAL TO FJZERLAND (10-12 hrs.). A tolerable road ascends from Sogndal to (11 Kil.) the Sogndalsvand (1500 ft.), on which we row to (6 Kil.) Gaarden Selseng at its N.W. end. From this point the traveller may as- cend Thorstadnatten, which commands an imposing view of the Togga (4900 ft.), the Fruhest, the Barnekona, and the Jostedalsbree. To the E. the Horunger are visible in clear weather. —— The path now ascends the Longedal, passing several saeters, to the central of the three depressions in the mountain, about 4000 ft. above the sea, to the left of which rise the summits of the Frudalsb-rw (5150 ft.). It then descends the Bergeclal to Gaao'den Berge on the E. bank of the Fjserlandsfjord, from which a boat conveys us in 1hr. to (6 Kil.) Fjcerland (see p. 110). From Sogndal to Mara'fieeren, a beautiful walk or drive of 28 Kil., see p. 100. Returning to the central highway of the Sognefjord, the steamer steers towards the W. and touches at — 3 M. Lekanger or Leikange'r (*Inn of Herm. Bruus Enke, suit- able for a prolonged stay, R. 1, B. 1, D. 11/2 kr.), situated on the beautiful and fertile N. bank of ;the fjord, known as the Sjestrand. To the E. lies Gaarden Henjum, with a quaint ‘Stue’ 110 Route 14. FJAERLANDSFJORD. Sognefjord. (wooden house) of the 17th cent., and to the W. Gaarden Husebe, with a lofty Bautastein. A day‘s excursion may be taken from Lekanger to the N. through the Henjumdal to the Gunvordsbroe (5150 ft.). On the opposite bank of the fjord lie Fejos, where a steamer touches once weekly in each direction, and Vangsnazs (‘meadow promontory’), commanded by huge mountains in the background. From Fejos mountaineers may ascend the *Rambazren (5250 ft.) and the *Fresoz'ksbros (5150 ft.). Opposite Vangsnaes the Fjazrlandsfjord, which is only occa- sionally visited by the steamers, opens to the N. The *Fjmrlandsfjord, of which the Svwreflord and Vellefjord are branches, extends to the N. for a distance of 19 Engl. M., and is terminated by the Bojums-Jekel and the Suphelle-Jakel, the S. offshoots of the Joste- dalsbrae. Its banks are very imposing, though less precipitous than those of the Nwrofjord (p. 106). On the left, near the mouth of the fjord, diverge the Svoe'rejjord and the Vetlefjord (see below). On the right, above the Rommedal, rises the Rommehest (11120 ft.), which may easily be ascended, and commands a mountain-view of the grandest description. The steamer stops at Fjaerland or Mandal (Inn kept by Aasmund Mmzdals Enke), 2 Kil. from the head of the fjord, accommodation may also be obtained at Gaa'rden Vaatevik, 4-5 Kil. from the pier. From either of these points each of the two great glaciers may be visited in 5 hrs. (there and back, guide unnecessary). The steamers stop half-a-day at Fjaerland, allowing ample time for the excursion. The “‘Store Suphellebre, in the Suphelledal, 2 hrs. to the N.E. of the steamboat-pier, descending to within 150 ft. of the sea-level, is one of the lowest glaciers in Norway (comp. p. 251). The lower part of the glacier, however, consists merely of the fragments of ice which fall over the rocks from the proper glacier above. —— About 1 hr. higher up lies the Vetlebroe or Lille Suphellebroe. which is remarkable for the purity of its ice. — The Skjeidesm'pa (4725 ft.) separates the Great Suphellebrae from the *Bojumsbrae, the foot of which is 600 ft. only above the fjord, presenting a huge ice-fall. From Mamlfjoeren and Ht‘llestad t0 Eiwrland, see p. 100', from Sogndal t0 Fjwrland, see p. 09. The Sognefjord here trends suddenly to the S. The next steamboat-station is -— 2 M. Balholmen (*Inn), the principal village on the fertile Balestrand, finely situated at the mouth of the small Essefjord, near the entrance to the Fjazrlandsfjord, which may also be visited from this point. Balholmen is also a good starting-point for several other interesting tours. The imposing mountain-background con- sists of Gjciterryggen, Vind'rekken (3875 ft.), and Guldceple; farther to the N. are Furunipa and Toten. Between the Guldaeple and Furunipa is the curious gap called Kjeipen (‘rowlock’, from the supposed resemblance). The *Munkcg, to the S., which is easily ascended, commands a striking view. The Balestrand is commonly supposed to be the scene of Tegnér’s ‘Frithjofs Saga’. At Gaarden Flesje, 6 Kil. to the S., King Bele’s tomb (Gravhoug) is pointed out, while the fertile promontory of Vangsnazs opposite is said to be the Framnoes of Frithjof (‘the robber of peace’). To the N. of Balholm is the very picturesquely situated church of Tjugum. Shortly before we Sognefjord. VIK. 14. Route. 1 11 stop at Balholmen, the deck of the steamer affords a view of the Vetlefjord with its glacier-background, but not of the N. end of the Fjaerlandsfjord (p. 110). FROM BALHOLMEN T0 SANDE (2 days). 1st Day. Row up the Svaerefjord to (11Kil.) Gaarden Svoeren at the head of the bay (tolerable quarters); ascend through the valley (3 Kil.), and then by a steep and rugged path to the Svoereskard (2300 ft.), a pass between lofty mountains, whence a fine retrospect is obtained towards the Sognefjord, the route next traverses a boggy and sterile plateau to the watershed , descending from which it soon reaches a seeter (about 5 hrs. from Svaeren); it descends thence, pass- ing a small lake, and traversing wood at places, to another sector, crosses the river, and leads over marshy ground to Mjell (8-10 hrs. walk in all). — 2nd Day. From Mjell by a bridle-path to Gaarden Hof, and thence by a road to the pretty Viksvancl, a lake about 1 Kil. long, which is traversed by boat, passing the island and chapel of Hoes-tad; thence by road to Sande (p. 177:, a walk of 3-4 hrs. and a row of 13/4 hr. in all). FROM BALHOLMEN T0 Form]; (2 days). 1st Day. Row to (12 Kil.) Ulvestad, at the head of the *Vetlefjord, and follow the road thence to (6 Kil.) Melt, near which an offshoot (Jekel) of the Josledalsbr'oe descends into the valley; thence, with a guide, to G-rerneng at the N.E. end of the Hauke— dalsvand (rough and fatiguing; 7—8 hrs.). 2nd Day. From Groneng via Holsen and M0 to Fm'de on the Ferdefjor'd (10 hrs.; road). Leaving Balholmen, the steamer usually steers due S. to 2 M. Vik (* Inn), beautifully situated on a bay on the S. side of the fjord, with fertile environs and snow-mountains in the back- ground. To the left rises Rambceren. The two old churches, one built of timber, the other of stone, are interesting. Numerous boat-houses (Nest, locally pronounced Nausht). To the N. the Vetlebrae, a branch of the Jostedals Glacier, is visible; more to the right is the Toindefos. A carriage-road ascends the valley behind Vik for about 10 Kil. — Interesting mountain-routes (about 8 hrs. each) lead hence to Stalheim (p. 60), to Vinje (p. 61), and to Gulbraa in the Exz'ngdal (guide necessary in each case). Soon after leaving Vik the steamboat passes a promontory on the left, on which is placed a ‘Gilje’, or apparatus for catching salmon, with waterfalls painted on it with a view to attract the fish (comp. p. 227). 2 M. Nese i Arnefjord , with an old church, picturesquely situated in its bay on the S. side of the Sognefjord, is commanded by an imposing background of mountains about 3000 ft. in height, which are green to their summits. Through the intervening de- pressions snow-fields are seen in the background. -—About 11/2 M. to the S.W., on the S. side of the main fjord, lies Ortneoilc, where the steamers occasionally touch, 1M. to the N. of which, on the opposite bank, lies -— 2% M. Maaren, prettily situated, with a waterfall near it. The white water-worn cliffs bear traces of the great height to which they are sometimes washed by the waves. 1% M. Kirkebe lies on the N. bank, nearly opposite the Fugl- satfjord. 11/2 M. Vadheim (* Station, ‘slow’) is prettily situated at the head of the Vadheimsfiord, a bay on the N. side of the Sognefjord. 112 Route 14. BHFJORD. On the left rises the imposing Noreoikheien, to the right a hill with Gaard Hovdcn. To the E. lies Hovland. ‘Overland Route’ to Molde, see R. ‘21. (On the Eikefjord, a bay on the S. side, about 15 Engl. M. to the SW. of Vadheim, lies Tredal, at which a steamer touches once weekly in each direction.) 3 M. Ladvik, on the N. bank, the principal place in this part of the Sogn district, presents little attraction to travellers. A little to the E. of it is Vazrholm, where the steamers touch occasionally. To the S. of Vaerholm, on the opposite bank, is — 1 M. Brwkke, on the small Risnefjord, above which the Stang- landsfjeld rises to the W. 2 M. Befjord (or Leroz'lc), on the small fjord of that name. To the N. of Lervik rises the Lz'hest (2370 ft.), at the head of the Aafjord. The magnificent scenery of the Sognefjord is now quitted; the mountains become lower and more barren, and the pictur- esque side-valleys disappear. The last station on the fjord is —- 2 M. Sognefest, on the S. side, opposite which, to the W., rise the Sultan-Her, a group of islands (the ‘Solundarc’ of Frithjofs Saga), containing mountains 1800 ft. in height. The steamer now passes through the strait called the Sognesje, and next stops at —— 1 M. Eivindvik on the Gulenfiord, the famous seat of the ancient Gulathingslag , a popular assembly, to whose jurisdiction all the western ‘Fylker’ from Sandman: to Rygjarbit (now Christian- sands-Stift and Bergen-Stift, including the Hallingdal and Val- ders) were subject. The steamer now threads its way through the ‘Skjaergaard’ or network of islands to the N. of Bergen, inhabited by ‘Striler’, as the natives of this region are called, touching at (1 Skjazrgehavn, (4 Lygren, and (‘2. Alverst'wmmen, and at length reaches -- 3 M. Bergen, see R. 10. 15. From Christiania to Molde by the Gudbrandsdal and the Romsdal. Lake Mjersen. 1183 Kil. (300 Engl. M.). RAILWAY from Christiania to Eidsvold, 68 Kil. (42 Engl. M.), in 23/4-31/4 hrs. (fares 4 kr. 80, 3 kr. 20, 1 kr. 60 21.). The traveller may also go as far as Hamar by railway, but this is not re- commended. -— STEAMBOAT daily from Eidsvold to Lillehammer, 105 Kil. (66 M.), in 71/2 hrs. (fares 5 kr., 3 kr. 35 a). The steamers (‘Tordenskjold‘, ‘Kong Oscar‘) have good restaurants on board. -- DILIGENCE from Lille- hammer to Vebl-ungsnaea, 275 Kil. (170 M.), thrice weekly in three days (starting on Sun., Tues, and Frid., returning on Sun., Tues, and Thurs; fare 40 kr.). — STEAMBOAT from Veblungsnses to Molde, 85 Kil. (22 M.), 3-4 times weekly in 34% hours. As to the ‘Diligence’, see p. 87. In midsummer the seats are gener— ally engaged a week or a fortnight beforehand. According to the latest intelligence the diligence stops for the first night at Bredvangen and the second at Malmen, reaching Veblungsnaer on the third. In the other di- rection the halting-places are Aak or Horghez'm, Helmet, Holaker, or Do- EIDSVOLD. 15. Route. 113 maas, and 'Klevslad, By're, or Fossegarden, Lillehammer being reached on the fourth day. The quickest diligence in this direction is the one leaving Veblungsnses on Thurs. evening, which reaches Lillehammer on Sun. at 9 a.m. The diligence, however, is not recommended except before or after the principal touring season. The traveller will find it preferable to hire a CARRIAGE at Lillehammer for the drive to Aak or Veblungsnses, for which 150-200 kr. is charged, with a fee of 56 kr. An open ‘Trille’ is cheaper. The solitary traveller should drive by carriole (which costs about 50 kr., including fees), devoting 4-5 days to the journey. In this case the finest parts of the route, particularly those from Stuefloten to Ormet'm and from Fladmark to Aak or Veblungs-naes, can be traversed on foot, the luggage being sent on in a ‘stolkjeerre. Travellers by carriage or carriole should not spend the night at the places where the diligence stops (see above). The best quarters for the night are at Fossegaarden, Skjwggestacl, Lt'stacl, Storklevstad, Laurgaard, Domaas, Holsoet, Stuefloten, Aak, and Veblungsnoes. The scenery increases in grandeur as we advance towards the W. Those who intend to explore the beauties of this district from Molde and to go farther N. by steamer may turn back at Ormeim, after visiting the Slettafos. Christiania, see p. 1. As the train leaves the station, we obtain a fine view of Christiania and the fjord to the left, and of the Egeberg and the suburb of Oslo to the right. Stations Bryn, Grorud, Stremmen. Then — 21 Kil. (13 Engl. M.) Lillestrermmen, the junction of the line to Eidsvold and Kongsvinger (see p. 272). The railway from this point to Eidsvold, constructed in 1851, is the oldest in Norway. The country is unattractive, but at Frogne'r and Kleften a glimpse is obtained of the distant blue mountains to the W. Beyond Trag- slad the train crosses extensive tracts of gravel, interspersed with scanty wood. Beyond Dal, which possesses several pretty villas, the scenery becomes more interesting. Two tunnels are passed through. 68 Kil. (.42 Eidsvold (*Je'rnbane Hotel, at the station). Travellers arriving from Christiania by the morning train go at once on board the steamboat, which starts 1/4-1/-_), hr. later. —— If the traveller makes any stay here he may visit the Eidsoold Baths on the Eids'voldsbakke (R. 4-6 kr. per week, ‘pension’ 2 kr. per day; baths 50-80 10.), and the Bautastein, or monument, erect— ed to Henrik Wergeland (d. 1845), the poet, and the discoverer of the spring. A pleasant walk may be taken to Et'dsvoldsverk, about 5 Kil. distant, where the Norwegian constitution (Norges Rt‘ges Grundlov) was established in 1814. A preliminary meeting took place here on 19th Feb. of that year, the sittings of the national diet began on 10th April, and the con! stitution (Grundlov) was adopted 17th May. The building, originally a farm-house, has been purchased by government and embellished with portraits of members of the diet. CONTINUATION on THE RAILWAY, to Hamar and Throndhjem, see p. 205. The STEAMBOAT at first traverses the broad and clear Vormen, which issues from Lake Mjesen and'falls into the Glommen. Largevtracts of debris, deposited by former glaciers, are. passed on Bnnnnxnn‘s Norway and Sweden. 2nd Edit. 114 Route 15. HAMAR. From Christiania both sides. At (8 Kil.) Minna (railway-station, p. 206), where a bridge crosses the Vormen, the steamer reaches the lake itself. Lake Mjnsen (412 ft.; greatest depth 1482 ft.), the largest lake in Norway, which L. v. Buch has called ‘Norway’s inland sea’, is 100 Kil. (62 long and at its broadest part 17 Kil. (101/2 in width, and forms a convenient highway between the districts of Gudbrandsdalen and Hedema'rken to the N. and E., and those of Thoten and Here Romerike to the W. and S. Like the Alpine lakes of Switzerland, Lake Mjesen is very deep at places (1482 ft. near Skreiabjergene), and though it lies 412 ft. above the sea-level, it is a curious fact that the lowest part of its bed is upwards of 1000 ft. below that level. The Skreia- bjerg or Sk'reia-Fjeld, on the W. bank, about halfway between Eidsvold and Gjevik, rises to the height of 2300 ft., but with this exception the hills bounding the lake are of very moderate height. The only considerable Bays formed by the lake are those of Tangen and Hamar (Akersoiken). Opposite to Hamar lies the large and well-cultivated Helgee, the only island in the lake, which at this point attains its greatest depth (1475 ft.). The erection of fortifications and a large central arsenal (like that of Karls- borg in Sweden, p. 291) on this island is projected. The Hunner Hr'ret is a kind of trout peculiar to this lake. The scenery of the banks of Lake Mjosen is of a soft and pleasing character. They present an almost unbroken succession of fields, woods, and pastures, studded with numerous farm-houses and country residences, but will perhaps seem somewhat monoton- ous if the traveller goes all the way from Eidsvold to Lillehammer in one day. The steamer touches at Elcornholm , Stigersand, and Fjeldhoug on the W. bank, and then crosses to Gillund and -- I-Iamar (*Victoria, Jernbane-Hotel, both near the steamboat pier and railway-station, and facing the lake), sometimes called ‘Storehammer’ to distinguish it from Lillehammer, the capital of Hedemarken, with 2400 inhab., prettily situated between the Furnazsfjord to the N. and the Akersoik to the E., which last is crossed by a long bridge. Hamar dates from 1152, when an episcopal see was founded here by the papal nuncio Nicholas Breakspeare,‘ an Englishman, afterwards Pope Adrian IV. From that period also are said to date the ruins of the old Cathedral, once a handsome edifice, of which four round arches of the nave alone are left. A pleasant walk may be taken to the ruins, 20 min. to the N.W., where the original town of Storehammer was situated. The old town with the cathedral and two other churches was destroyed by the Swedes in 1567. The modern town, which received itsmuni- cipal charter in 1864, and again became an episcopal see in 1864, has thriven greatly since the construction of the railway to Thrond- hjem (p. 206). -- Near Hamar is the ‘Folkehoiskole’ of Sagatun. to Molde. LILLEHAMMER. 15. Route. 115 The steamer now steers towards the W., passing on the left the pretty Helgeo, and touches at Nazs, Smer'vilc, and — Gjervik(Gjeviks Hotel, near the pier, with view of the lake, and Victoria, 100 yds. farther up the ,main street, both good), the capital of Thoten Fogderi, with 1112 inhab., situated on the W. bank of the lake, about 60 Kil. from Eidsvold and 40 Kil. from Lillehammer, and at the mouth of the Hansel/v. Pleasing views of the lakeand Helgee from the Hunskirke and other heights near the village. FROM GJovIx To Sxmms, 40 Kil. (25 M.), carriage-road with fast sta- tions (diligence, see below). The road at first ascends rapidly, traversing extensive woods, to - 4 Kil. 1‘-Mustaol (a fair station), situated about 1500 ft. above Lake Mjosen. The drive to this point occupies fully 2 hrs., after which the road traverses a nearly level plateau to (11 Kil.) Lien, a farm-house near the road, and formerly the station (clean and cheap). About 3 Kil. farther on is —- 14 Kil. -t- Granum (a fair station), situated a little to the right of the road, {which farther on descends to the basin of the Randsjfior'd ( . 88). About halfway between Granum and Odnaes a direct road to (14 Kil.) Christiania diverges to the S., skirting the E. bank of the Randsfjord the first half of the Way. A little farther on, about 8 Kil. from Granum, is ~i~ Odna’s (p. 88). Then — 12 Kil. (from Granum) Skerien, see p. 88. The steamer now continues its northward way through the lake, which contracts to the dimensions of a river, and touches at Heggenhaugen, Ringsaker (with an old church containing a Flemish altar-piece of the 16th cent.), Birid (with a glass-foundry), and Frengstuen. About 21/4 hrs. after leaving Gjevik it reaches —— j-Lillehammer. —- “"Vloroxm HOTEL, well situated, near the bridge over the Mesna; *MADAME ORMSRUD, in the main street, on the left, a little farther on; charges at both. R. 1-11/-;, B. or S. 11/2, D. 2kr. The steamboat-pier is fully 1 Engl. M. from the hotels, omnibus to and from the pier. Sxrns STATION, at Vingsnazs (see below). Information about the DIL- renrvon to Veblungsnees is given at the office of Hr. A. M. Larsen. SHOPS. F. Frisenberg. on the E. side of the main street, sells well— executed silver-plate and trinkets at moderate prices; tastefully carved meerschaum-pipes, etc. at G. Larsen‘s, on the opposite side of the street. Lillehammer is beautifully situated on the Mesna, on the E. bank of Lake Mjesen (comp. p. 36), about 150 ft. above the lake, and 1/2Engl. M. below the influx of the Lougen (Laug, Laag, or Log, i. e. ‘river’; Laagen, ‘the‘river’; ‘the Lougen’, though gene- rally used, is grammatically speaking, a pleonastic expression). The town (1560 inhab.), which presents a modern appearance, has enjoyed municipal privileges since 1827 only. It is called Lillehammer (‘little hammer’) to distinguish it from Hamar or Store- hammer. The principal building is the substantial and handsome Grammar School (Latinskole) , at the S. end of the main street, overlooking the church and the lake. A cotton-mill (managed by Hr. Ingeniorr Lyng), saw-mills, flour-mills, and a manufactory of agricultural implements add to the importance of the place. Lille- hammer is a pleasant point for a short stay, and being the terminus 8* .116 Route 15. GUDBRANDSDAL. From Christiania of the Mjesen steamboats and the starting-point of the God- brandsdal route, is a very busy place in summer and a great rallying—point for travellers. ~ The turbulent Mesna forms several beautiful * Waterfalls about 11/2 Engl. M. to the N.E. of the town, the finest being the Halve- deshel, or ‘hell cauldron’, near which is the Niagara Bath House. Pleasant walk of 1/2 hr. to the S., passing the Grammar School, to a bench on the road-side, commanding a fine view of the lake, here scarcely 3/4 Engl. M. in breadth. To the E. of Lillehammer stretches a vast tract of forest, wild and almost uninhabited. The Mesna and the-Mesna Lakes, in a sequestered situation '7 Engl. M. the E. (reached by a rough, and at places swampy forest-path), to afford good trout-fishing. - On theW. bank of Lake Mjesen, opposite Lillehammer (ferry adjoining the steamboat-pier), lies {*Gdarden Vingnazs, a posting- station, prettily situated, from which a good, but somewhat hilly road, with fast stations, leads to Gjevik (p. 115). At Lillehammer begins the Gudbrandsdal, or valley of the Lougen, through which our road ascends. As in the case of the Hallingdal (p. 79) the name is applied not only to the 'principal valley but also in a loose general sense to allthe small lateral valleys the streams of which drain into the Lougen. The inhabi— tants (Gudbrandsdeler) are generally well-to-do, and distinguished by their curious customs and their pride. According to Norwegian ideas the valley is well cultivated, but the cattle-pastures occupy much more ground than tilled fields. In summer most of the in- habitants migrate with the cattle to the saeters. The scenery of the Gudbrandsdal is comparatively tame, as the heights enclosing it are merely the lower spurs of the fjeld, the higher peaks of which are only occasionally visible. The valley sometimes ex- pands and becomes more picturesque, but as a whole it is sombre and somewhat monotonous. The admirable road (‘Kongevei’) ascends gradually from Lille- hammer, at a considerable height above the Lougen, and passes smiling green slopes with forest in the background.- The numerous heaps of stones (‘Agerstener") on the road-side testify to the trouble which the farmers have had in preparing their- land for cultivation. The syllables rad, rod, or 'ryd in which names of Norwegian places so frequently terminate have reference to the "uprooting’ of trees andirernoval of stones. On the left is passed a “Mindes'ten’, or monument, to Hr. Bergk, constructor of the road. About 1/2 hr, from Lillehammer a road descends to the left into the valley, crosses ‘a bridge, and then ascends the GAUSDAL, passing the sta- tions of (12 Kil.) +Diaerud, (1'5 Kil.) +Veist'en. (14 Kil.) +Helleberg, and (14 Kil.) +Kvisberg, beyond which mountain-tracks, rarely used,‘ lead ‘to the Jotunfjeld, (p. 126). “A little beyond Diserud is the gaard of Ole- sta'd, belonging to‘ Bjéi'nstfi'e'l'ne Bjernson, the poet and novelist. - ‘The Gausdel'fianatorium, a lar'geho'téland pension near the Sket- gazter, and a favourite resort. of Norwegianvisit-ors, is finely situated on to Molds. FOSSEGAARDEN. 15. Route. 117 the hill to the right of the Gausdal, about 3000 ft. above the sea-level, or 2600 ft. above Lake Mjfisen, and 42 Kil. from Lillehammer. An omni- bus runs to the Sanatorium in summer from the Victoria Hotel daily (in 61/; hrs.), returning thence to Lillehammer in the afternoon (in 5hrs.; fare 8,_kr.). It may also be reached by carriole via Diserud and (14 Kil.) {-Nerstevold. Visitors making a prolonged stay at the Sanatorium pay 5-6 kr. per day for board and lodging; passing travellers are charged hotel-prices. Among the many pleasant walks and excursions which may be taken from the Sanatorium, one of the finest is to the (2 hrs.) summit of *Prcestekmnpen (4090 ft.), which commands an admirable view of the glaciers and peaks of the Jotunfjeld and other mountains. i4 Kil. Fossegaarden (good quarters) is beautifully situated above the Lougen, which here forms a fine fall called the *Hunncr- fos, where the famous l-iunnermreter, or lake-trout (p. 114),. are- caught in large numbers. The Neucrfjeld, a fine point of view, may be ascended hence in 2 hours. . Beyond Fossegaarden the road traverses a ravine where the Lougen has forced its passage through a barrier of rock. On the left rises the Dreshula, a picturesque cliff. The vegetation is very rich. —— The peasants here wear red caps, and frequently carry a peculiar kind of pannier on their backs (Bugmez's, elsewhere called Nceverkont). 0n the road-side are a number of Huilesteller, or open stalls for resting horses. The posts flanking the road (called Rodestolper) mark the portions (Roder) which the adjoining land- owners are bound to keep in repair. 18 Kil. ~" Formo lain but clean uarters from which a view _ _ _ t p P q . 7 , 18 obtained to the E. of the snow—capped peaks of the Rondane (p. 207). A horse fair of considerable importance is held annually at the neighbouring village ' of Stan, on 15th—17th August. Be- tween Formo and Kirkenstue lies Lake Losna, which contains, excellent fish. The scenery continues to'be attractive. with. fKirlccstucn (*Station). 0n the left rises the pictur-' esque mountain called fl'uliknappen, and to the right the Djupdul, above which is Gaarden Upsal. Near Kirkestuen the height attained by the river during an inundation (Flown) on 16th and 17th June, 1860, is marked on the rocks. The road next passes through a ra-_ vine bounded by the precipitous and furrowed Elstalalev and a si—' milar rock opposite. The horns of the cattle here are frequently tipped with wooden or metal knobs to prevent them from doing‘ injury. 0n the road-side are seen numerous snow-ploughs (81w; plouge). 12 Kil. Tskjaeggestad (*Station; walls adorned with photo-*0‘ graphs, including ‘001. Sinclair’s Landing’ from a picture by Tidernand) is picturesquely situated, but the environs are,_some-' what marshy. On a hill to the left, a little beyond it, stands the’ old church of Ringebo. The Klinlcenberg (3080 ft.) is sometimes ascended hence for the sake of the view (6-8 hrs. there and back ;v horses at the station). From Skjzeggestad a lonely bridle-path leads to Solliden and the *Atne-Vand (a day‘s journey), whence the traveller may either proceed to 118 Route 15. LISTAD. From Christiania Foldal and Jerkin on the Dovrefjeld (p. 202) by a tolerable road, or de- scend the valley of the Ame-Eh) to Atna. Comp. p. 207. The valley now becomes somewhat marshy. We pass the Vaul- houg on the right, and cross the Vaalaclv (fine view). Farther on are the churches of Venebygden and Fron. We next observe the Guard Steig, picturesquely and loftily situated, once the resi- dence of the ‘Foged‘ Lars Gram, the leader of the peasants who an- nihilated the Scottish invaders commanded by Col. Sinclair (p. 119). Farther on is Gaarden Huntorp, once the seat of Dale Gudbrand, the powerful heathen opponent of St. Olaf. Beyond it is Gaarden Hove, once the scene of heathen sacrificial rites. In the vicinity are several barrows (Kcampehouge). 14 Kil. Listad iSendre Fron (*Station, comfortable; *Gaa‘rd Lillehove, a little farther on), near which is the church of Fron, prettily situated, is a good place for spending the night. The road now descends gradually to the Lougen, which here begins to assume the character of a mountain-torrent. On the left is Gryting, a pleasant-looking gaard; on the right rises the Sloudal, a precipi- tous rock. 12 Kil. Byre (tolerable station). A road to the right, crossing the Lougen, leads hence to Kvikne and Skabo, whence a dreary track ascends to Jotunheim (not recommended). Comp. R. 16. The scenery now becomes of a wilder and grander description. The valley turns to the N., and then, beyond Gaarden Vz'k (*Inn, formerly the station), to the W. 9 Kil. Storklevstad (*Station) lies a little below the church of Kvam, situated on the right. Below the church, to the left, is a stone near the road-side recording that 001. Sinclair is buried there (see below). The road now traverses a poor district, partially wooded with stunted pines and birches. The fields are irrigated by means of numerous cuttings (Raznner). The cottages of the Husmaznd, or farm—labourers, called Stuer, are usually roofed with turf. The large slabs of slate common in this district are used for making walls, for roofing purposes, and for the drying of malt. A number of small gaards are perched on the hill-side in apparently inacces-- sible situations. The magpie (Slcjer), an object of superstitious veneration among the Norwegian peasantry, is frequently seen here. The river forms numerous rapids and cataracts. The road has now attained a height of about 1000 ft. above the sea-level, or 600 ft. above Lake Mjosen. The Sjoa here falls into the Lougen. Immediately above the confluence of the Sjoa and Lougen a road di- verges to the left, crosses the Lougen, and ascends the valley of the Sjoa to (29 Kil. from Storklevstad) -1- Bjnlstad, one of the largest and most interesting gaards in Norway, the proprietor of which claims to be of royal descent. Near it is the church of Hedalen. The next stations are tNordre Snerle and (25 Kil.) +Sqrum (p. 128). to Molde. LAURGAARD. 15. Route. 119 The road now passes the new district prison, and reaches the station of -- 17 Kil. Bredoangen (*Inn, small), beautifully situated. The horses have usually to be fetched from the pastures on the other side of the Lougen, which here forms a lake-like expansion. The background of the Alpine picture, looking up the valley, is formed by the lofty Formokampen (see below). A little beyond Bredvangen the Lougen is joined on the left by the Ottaelv, through the valley of which a road leads to (11 Kil.) Aasoren, (if) Kil.) Snerle, and (20 Kil.) Serum (p. 128). On the right side of the road, about halfway between Bredvangen and Moen, is the steep hill called Kringelen, which was form- erly traversed by the old road. On 26th August, 1612, when Col. George Sinclair with his 900 Scotch auxiliary troops, who had landed a few days previously at the Klungenaes on the Romsdals— fjord, were attempting to force their way through Norway to join the Swedes, who were then at war with the Norwegians, they were intercepted by an ambush of 300 Norwegian peasants at this spot. The natives had collected huge piles of stones and wood on the hill above the road, which they hurled down on the invaders when they reached this part of the road. Most of the ill-fated Scots were thus destroyed, while the survivors, with a few exceptions, were put to the sword. (See Laing’s ‘Norway’.) The massacre is commemorated by a tablet in the rock to the left, bearing the in- scription, ‘Erindring om Bandemes Tappe'rhed’. 8 Kil. ~i~ Moen (tolerable station) lies at the confluence of the Lougen with the Ula, which descends from Lake Ula at the foot of the *Rondane (p. ‘207), and forms the Daanofos (‘thunder-fall’) close to the road. The wall of the neighbouring Churchyard of Set is curiously constructed of slabs of slate, while most of the old tombstones are of Klazbersten or soapstone. Half-an-hour may be pleasantly spent here in ascending the interesting valley of the Uta for a short distance. —— The pigs of the Gudbrandsdal, some- times adorned with triangular pieces of wood (Sula) round their necks, enjoy perfect liberty, and are a sturdy, wholesome-looking race. We now pass several deposits of stone and detritus (Shred), the ends of which from some unexplained cause rise in the form of knolls. The largest of these is passed near Laurgaard, before reaching which we cross the river. 10 Kil. TLaurgaard (*Station, comfortable) lies about 1000 ft. above the sea-level. An interesting excursion may be made hence by a bridle-path to the Hervringen Soeter, fitted up as a small inn, the property of the station- master at Laurgaard, about 11 Kil. distant. Near it rises *Formokampe-n (4835 ft.), a fine point of view, easily ascended. Fnou LAUBGAARD 'ro Senum (or Vaage, 21 Kil.). The picturesque, but hilly road crosses the mountains to the W. of Lam-gaard to (14 Kil.) Nordre Snerle and (7 Kil.) Serum (p. 128). 120 Route 15. TOFTEMOEN. From Christiania The road now leads along the Lougen through the imposing pine-clad *Raoine 0f Rusten, resembling the Schiillenen on the Gotthard Route. The river has here forced itself a passage through the rocky barrier of the Rust, and descends in a series of rapids and cataracts. The finest point is at the *Bridge which carries the road to the right bank of the river, about 1/2 kr. beyond Laurgaard. The traveller is recommended to walk from Laurgaard to the bridge, near which diverges the above-mentioned road to the Hevringen Saeter. On emerging from the ravine we soon reach the highest point of the road (1850 ft. above the sea-level) and find ourselves in an Alpine-like valley, in which cultivation almost totally disappears. Cuttings for irrigation appear here also. On the right rises the Rustenfjeld, on the left the Kjelen, the huge moun- tain-mass between the Lesse Valley and Vaage. As late as July large patches of snow are seen by the road-side. The broad floor of the valley is covered with deposits of stone and sand, partially overgrown with stunted pines. 12 Kil. 'jrB'rcendhougen (*Station), in the parish of Doors. The station contains a curious old wardrobe, painted and gilded, a table dating from 1763, and several specimens of wood-carving. The Jetla (5430 ft.) which rises to the W., is sometimes ascended from Braendhougen. It commands an imposing view of the Dovrefjeld, the Rondane, and the Jotunfjeld. We now cross the Lougen by a new bridge, and soon after pass the church of Doors, which Prof. Forbes calls a singular and ugly structure (‘Norway’, p. 11), situated on an ancient moraine. Like many of the Norwegian churches, it is built in the form of a Greek cross. In the centre rises the tower. At the end of each arm of the cross is a small projecting addition. The whole structure is covered with large dark slabs of slate. Some of the tombstones in the churchyard are interesting. — The farms, as usual, are all placed on the sunny side of the valley, while on the other side rise dreary masses of mountain and rock. 12 Kil. JrToftemoen (*Station) lies at the head of the hind- brandsdal in the narrower sense. The name signifies an inhabited site (Taft) on a sandy plain (M0). The word ‘toft’ occurs in Eng- land and Scotland in a somewhat similar sense. The station-- master traces his descent from Harald Haarfagre, and possesses a number of interesting old curiosities. A saeter about 1 hr. distant, belonging to his father, is interesting. Beyond Toftemoen the scenery is at first very uninteresting. The road ascends over huge deposits of detritus to Gaarden Lid, the buildings of which are roofed with birch-bark (Nceoer) covered with green turf. We obtain here a fine view of the profound ravine of the Lougen, with the Kjelen rising above it. The peak in the distance is the Homng. 11 Kil. TDomaas, or Dombaas(2160 ft., *Station, a comfort- able, well-built house, but dearer than most of the others; tele- to Molde. DOMAAS. 15. Route. 1.21 graph-oi'fice; the station keeper and telegraph official speak Eng- lish), is an important place owing to its position at the junction of the Gudbrandsdal and Dovrefjeld routes (to Molde and Throndhjem, see R. 25), and lies high above the ravine of the Lougen (about 2000 ft. above the sea). White fox and other skins and reindeers’ antlers are offered for sale here. The air is fresh and exhilarating, and the place is suited for a prolonged stay. A pleasant excursion of 4-5 hrs. may be taken from Dombaas to the Hardegswter on the bank of the Lougen, where a fine view of the valley, of Sneheettan, and other mountains is enjoyed. The road to Molde leads as far as Stuefloten through an uninter- esting and shallow upland valley, the mountains enclosing which are comparatively tame in form. The bottom of the valley is sandy, and partially covered with a scanty growth of pines, birches, and heather. The ascent is very gradual. ' A short way beyond Domaas the road skirts the N. bank of a narrow lake called the Lesje- Vand (1720 ft.), which has been partially drained. '12 Kil. Holalcer (*Station, moderate charges). The road pas- ses the Lesje-Kirke and reaches —- 15 Kil. 'irHolsazt (*Station), at the N.W. end of the Lesje- Vand. A bridle-path ascends from Holsaet by the Loraelv to the Storsmter and the Nysoezfea' (about 5 hrs.), and crosses the mountains thence to Arm- sla-d (or Skeakei', p. 161), a long day’s journey, which may be broken by spending a night at the Nysaeter, a pleasing specimen of the Norwegian chalet (see p. 122). At the highest part of the valley lie three small lakes known as the Lesjeslcogen- Vand (2050 ft.), from which to the W. the Rauma descends to the Atlantic, and to the E. the Lougen to the Skagerrak. In the vicinity a picturesque waterfall. The fishing is well spoken of. 10 Kil. Lesievcrlc (*Station), at the S.E. end of the lake, derives its name from the iron-mine formerly worked here. 12 Kil. Molmen (*Stutz'on) lies at the W. end of the lake and near the church of Lesjeslcogen, which has given its name to the whole district. From Molmen to the Gaul-d Reiten in the upper Et‘kisdal (10-12 hrs.), a fatiguing mountain~path, see p. 199. FROM MQ'LMEN 'ro AANSTAD (Rejshjem), about 80 Kil. (50 Engl. M.). Travellers from the Romsdal, desirous of visiting the Jotunfjeld. and of avoiding the long circuit by Domaas and Laurgaard to Rojshjem, are recommended to walk or ride across the mountains by the bridle-path from Molmen to Aanstad or Skeakea' (about 50 Kil.), and drive thence to Rejshjem (30 Kil. more). The whole of this route may be accomplished in 11/2-2 days. A good walker may reach Aanstad in 16 hrs. (7 hrs. to the Nysaeter, 2 hrs. rest, and 7 hrs. more to Aanstad); but it is preferable to walk or ride to the Nyswter on the first day, and to Aanstad on the second, whence Rejshjem may be reached in the evening. Guide from Molmen to Aanstad 12, horse 12 kr. (St'vert Paulswn of Led, near Molmen, is recommended as a guide.) The route traverses a dreary mountain-tract, the wildness and so- lemnity of which may almost be described as awe-inspiring. Fine weather is of course indispensable to the enjoyment of the expedition, the chief attraction of which consists in the distant views. Reindeer are occa- sionally met with. The route is quite unattended with danger. as the 122 Route 15. NYS/ETER. From Christiania track is well defined by means of heaps of stones ( Vm'de-r), to which it has for centuries been the custom for travellers to contribute. Provisions are necessary, as the Nysaeter affords nothing but coffee, milk, and Ram- megred (wheat-meal boiled in cream, very rich). 1st Day. The path gradually ascends through a birch-wood in the Grendal to the (1 hr.) Gransoetre (or saeters of Enstad and Malmen), where we obtain a view of the Romsdal mountains. On the opposite side of the Grana, to the left, is a small tarn (Kjernn, or Tjoern, the pronuncia- tion of kj and tj being identical in Norway and Sweden). The path descends to the stream and crosses several brooks and deposits of de— tritus. Aconite and the dwarf birch (Betula nana) are frequently seen here, and the Alpine 0r Lapland character of the flora becomes more marked as we proceed. Reindeer-moss (Rensdyrmosse), here eaten by the cows, is also abundant. After 2 hrs. more the path again ascends to the left. The birch disappears, and patches of snow are passed. Looking back, we observe the Svarthgi to the N. of Molmen, and the Storhei more to the right. The scenery soon becomes exceedingly bleak and Wild. In 11/2 hrs. more we reach the top of the first hill (Toppen), where we Obtain a striking view of the Romsdal mountains to the N.W.: Mon- gejuret, Vengetinder, the Romsdalshorn (usually called ‘Hornet’). To the N.E. are the Svarthai and Storhfli, and farther distant the Snehaattan snow-range. To the S.W. rises the Lafthgi with its large glacier, ad- joined by an amphitheatre (Botn) of black precipices and a broad ex- panse of snow. From the first ‘Top‘ a ride of 1 hr. to the S. over stony ground, scantily overgrown with reindeer-moss, chamois-cress, and other Lapp flora, brings us to the second Top called the *Digervarde, about 5000 ft. in height, which commands a view of the whole Jotunheim chain, from the Glittertind to the Fanaraak and beyond it. The Galdhspig is parti- cularly prominent. We now descend in about 2 hrs. more, over loose stones part of the way, to the Nysaeter, a building with four rooms, kept by civil herd-girls. (There is one bed which will accommodate two travellers. Alpine fare. Everything clean, though homely.) The girls call (lokken) the cattle down from the hills in the evening by singing ‘Fjeldm'ser‘ similar to those with which Jenny Lind once delighted the world. 2nd Day. By starting very early, we may reach Aanstad soon after noon. The monotonous track crosses the Lorafjeld, which it reaches in about an hour. It passes several tarns (Tjern, Kjazrn, or lKjann, see above) and the W. side of the larger Fillingsvand. The broad snow-clad mountain to the left is the Lomshommg. We cross the discharge of the Fillingsvand. Among the interesting mosses occurring here are the Rensdyrmosse (see above), the Komosse or Hvidkralle, and the golden yellow Gulskz'n. The Betula nana covers the ground so densely at places as to form a kind of carpet. After a walk or ride of 3-4 hrs. from the Nysaeter we reach the W. end of the Lomshorung, where a halt is usually made. To the W. lies the *Aursjer, a fine sheet of water with a magnificent mountain back- ground. The path next skirts the W. slope of the Horung for 1 hr., commanding a view of the mountain range on the S. side of the Ottadal, including the Lomsegg and the Hestbraepiggene. About 2000 ft. below us lies the valley and its western ramification. This scene is admirably calculated to convey to the traveller an idea of the immense disproportion be- tween the extent of the mountain wilds and that of the cultivated land in Norway. As we descend, the vegetation rapidly becomes richer (Linnaea boreaha abundant), and the temperature rises. On the slope to the right is the first seeter on this side of the route. The path descends to the Aura, the discharge of the Aursjfl, which forms a fine waterfall. Pines and afterwards birches re-appear. The first gaard on the slope of the valley is Bakke. Among those that follow, one on the left has a. taste- fully carved portal. The rye and barley-fields here are watered by hand with a kind of shovel (Skjelrwk). In 1 hr. from the point of view above to Molde. STUEFLOTEN. 15. Route. 123 mentioned we reach the bottom of the valley. (The ascent in the reverse direction takes 2 hrs.) The path crosses the greenish glacier-fed Otta by along bridge, commanding a splendid view, and leads to the right to the (1/2 hr.) 1~Aanstad station (p. 161). The station-master will sometimes give the traveller horses to convey him direct to Rejshjem; if not, it is necessary to turn to the left by the Church of Lom (p. 129) and drive to +Andv0rd (3/4 hr.), return thence to the church, and ascend the Baevradal to Rejshjem (p. 145). REMARKS 0N SETER LIFE. In connection with the above route a few remarks on saeters may not be unacceptable to the traveller. The seeter, or mountain chalet, consists of two rooms at least, one for the use of the inmates, and also for cooking purposes, with the Skorsten or fire-place (also called Arne or Grue), the other (Melkebod) for dairy purposes. Over the fire hangs an iron pot or kettle by a chain, and adjacent there is usually a boiler built into the wall for the preparation of the cheese. The whey (Mysa, Prim) is made into cheese (Mysost), and is often carried down to the valleys in drum-shaped tubs (Ftasker, Krukker). The saeters formerly had no chimneys, the smoke being allowed to find its way out through an opening (Ljor) in the pyramidal shaped roof, which at the same time afl‘orded light. The cows (Kaer), often accompanied by sheep (Sewer) and pigs (Svz'n), are usually sent up to the mountain pastures (tit Saeters) on St. John‘s Day (24th June), and remain there till 10th September. Women and girls, as a rule, are their sole attendants. In singing their picturesque cattle-call, the saeter girls usually address each cow by name (as Materos, Helgeros, Lek/r05, Palmeros, Tm'm'os, the syllable was being a term of endearment specially applied to cows; also Maa-nfrue, moon-lady; Krone, crown; Gulgave, gold-gift, etc.). The word Kuss is also used to call cows and calves; Gtsa is addressed to pigs, Vullz'ng to sheep, Sku to dogs, and Faale to horses. Among the dogs at the Nysaeter were Faust, Passop, Voegter, Barfod, Spring, Freya, and BMW)’. Among the dairy utensils may be mentioned the Met/‘sewing or Melkekolle (milk vessel), the Melkkak (skimmer), the Dal or Ember (pail), the Krak (milking stool), the Sit (milk-strainer, ‘sile‘), and the Vandsela (water-pitcher). Beyond Melmen the road passes Gaarden Einabu, with an an- cient ‘Bautastein’. King Olaf, ‘the Saint’, is said to have halted at this gaard in 1029, when pursued by the rebellious peasantry, shortly before the final struggle to regain his supremacy which terminated with his death at Stiklestad near Levanger. The scenery is bleak and wild. 13 Kil. Stuefloten (Station, good and moderate) is the last place in the Gudbrandsdal, at a height of 2000 ft. above the sea- level. The Romsdal, the mountains of which are now seen stretch- ing far into the distance, begins here. From Stuefloten to the Et'ks'sdal, towards the N., a fatiguing moun- tain-path, see p. 198. —— Another mountain-route, little frequented, leads hence towards the W. to the Norddalsfjord, a branch of the Stm'fjm'd in the Sandman-e district. It ascends the course of the Ulvaa, which de- scends from the Ulvevand, crosses the mountains, and descends by the Bodalselv to the Tafiord, the innermost bay of the Norddalsfjord, where the steamer touches once weekly on its way to Aalesund and Mseraak. Sylte, on the N. side of the entrance to the Tafjord, and Betting on the S. side, are touched at twice Weekly by a steamer to Aalesund, and twice weekly by one to Hellesylt. The road through the “Bomsdal, or valley of the Rauma, which rises in the Lesjeskogen-Vand (p. 121), is one of the grandest and most widely celebrated routes in Norway. The whole 124 Route 15. ' ORMEIM. From Christiania way from Stuefloten, or at least from Flatmark, to Veblungsnaes (50 or 30 Kil. respectively) is specially recommended to pedestrians. Beyond Stuefloten the new road descends the once dreaded Bjerneltleo (‘bears’ cliff’) in numerous windings. In the deep gorge to the left flows the Rauma, which here receives several tributary streams, the chief of which is the Ulvaa, the discharge of the Uloevand. The river sometimes entirely disappears from view.‘ About 4 Kil. from Ormeim we come to a finger-post in- dicating the way to the *Slettafos (properly the Lower Slettafos, as there is another fall of the same name higher up), ‘80 ells’ from the road. We alight here, cross the new bridge above the fall, and follow the path for a few hundred paces to a spot below the overhanging rocks, where the imposing cascade is seen to the best advantage, and where its roar is loudly reverberated. The rocky walls of the gully have been worn into deep cauldrons(‘Jaette- gryder’) by the action of the water. 10 Kil. (pay for 11) 'fOrmeim (*Station, unpretending), beautifully situated on the right bank of the Rauma, and sev- eral hundred feet above it, commands an admirable view of the picturesque *Vrrrmof’os, or Vrrrmedalsfos, a waterfall on the oppo- site bank, nearly 1000 ft. in height, and of the mountain called the Alterhei. After rain, and during the melting of the snow in early summer, the fall assumes most imposing dimensions. The windows at the back of the station afford a good survey of the fall. If time permits, a day should be devoted to inspecting the fall more closely and ascending the *Storha'tten (5885 ft.). The ascent of Slorhcetten occupies about 4 hrs., and riding is prac- ticable for three-quarters of the way (guide 4, horse 4 kr.). The route descends from the station to a bridge over the Rauma, crosses it , turns to the right, and ascends by the side of the Vrermofos to a(1\/2 hr.) Sade-1',’ After 11/2 hr. more the path terminates and riders dismount. In another hour, the last half of which is spent in clambering over loose stones, we reach the summit. The view, like those from most of the Norwegian ‘Fjeldnuter’, is deficient in picturesqueness, although extensive. ,— The best point for surveying the Veermofos is a rocky knoll on the right (E.) bank of the Rauma, exactly opposite the fall, and easily found without a-guide. It is reached by traversing the pastures at the back of the station. _, _ Beyond Ormeim the scenery continues fine, but nothing is lost by driving from Ormeim to Flatmark. The road at first descends; rapidly, commanding a view of the Vaermofos on the left. Farther on, on each side, are several other fine waterfalls, precipitated ‘from rocks 2000-3000 ft. in height, but most of them are unim- portant in dry seasons. On the right are the Styggefondfos, the Graodefos, and the Skogefos; on the left the Dentefos. In the background rises the Slayrisareln and the Middagshougen (to the S., above Ormeim . 11 Kil. 'iFlatmark (a fair station) lies, as its name (‘flat field’) indicates, in a broader and more smiling part of the valley. The mountain scenery around is very grand. The road and the ltauma next thread their way through a chaos of enormous blocks to Molde. AAK. 15. Route. 125 of rock, the result of some tremendous landslip. The scene is most impressive and picturesque, and is one of the finest of its kind in Europe. On the right we next pass Monge and the pic- turesque Mongefos, descending from the mountain called Monge- ju'ret. To the W. we discern the peaks of the Trolltinder, to the E. the snow-capped Olmafjeld, the whole forming a mountain scene of the most impressive character. A little beyond Monge, on the left, we observe Gaarden Rennen, and, farther on, a water- fall. The sides of the valley are here 2000-3000 ft. in height. Farther on the valley expands, and the road traverses a marshy tract, once the bed of a lake. 12 Kil. Horghez'm (235 ft. ; unpretending but good station) lies on an ancient moraine, nearthe gaard of Mireba. To the right rises the huge Romsdalshorn, from which numerous large masses of rock have fallen into the valley. Through the bed of the stream runs a stony track which is used in winter as being less exposed to avalanches, but is generally under water in summer. On the left now begin the strikingly picturesque *Trolltinder (‘witch- pinnacles’; 5880 ft.), from which avalanches (Sneslcred) and rocks are frequently precipitated in winter. Part of the serrated ridge is known as the Brudefiotge, or bridal train. At the- end of the last Muhre is Gawrden Find, in a plantation of birches. The road follows the right, bank of the impetuous Rauma, with the Roms- dalshorn on the right and the Trolltinder on the left. It then leaves the ravine and enters a smiling dale, enlivened with lux- uriant green pastures and numerous ashes, birches, and alders. We next reach the -— . Gaard Aak (85 ft. ; *Landmwrk‘s Hotel, with baths, comfort- able, charges reasonable), charmingly situated on an eminence to the right of the road, and justly a favourite place for a prolonged stay (salmon and trout fishing in the neighbourhood). The name (pronounced 6106) is probably a contraction of ‘Aaker’ (cultivated land), and occurs in Meraak, Berkaak, etc. The'scenery here is dominated by the huge *Romsdalshorn (5090 ft.), usually known as the Horn, which rises to the Adjoining it on the N. are the picturesque and still more lofty Vengefjeldene (6035 ft.). .Exo‘unsions FROM AAK. 1. Ascent of the Romsdal to Stuefloten, see above. —— 2. Through the Isterdal to the Isterfos. and thence by the SM- gane to the Stegnfjeld (see p. 185). —— 3. To Veblungsnces or Naes, and then either N. to Sten, or S. to the Indfjord and Vold (p. 194), or W. to Thorvik and the hill described at p. 196. —- 4. Ascent of the Romsdalshorn (see above). We ascend the Vengedal and pass the night in the Vengedals- ‘ {er (ca. 3600 ft.). On the next morning we cross the Lillefjeld to Skaret if‘aca. 21900 ft.), and climb to the peak from the W. side. The last part of ascent is difficult. Matthias Soggemoen and Erik Norahagen of Romsdal may be recommended as guides. On the top is a ‘Varde‘, erected by the first travellers who made the ascent (in 1827). The road now traverses old glacier-moraines, forming a pleasant park-like tract. On the left opens the Isterdol (p. 185), on the E. side of which are the last summits~ of the Trolltinder, with a large 126 Route 15. VEBLUNGSNAZS. glacier, while on the W. rise the Sestrene (‘the Sisters’), Kongen, Dronningen (‘Queen’; 5407 ft.), and other fine Alpine peaks. In front of us, above Veblungsnaes, rise the Isterfjeld (to the left) and the Storhesten (to the right). The roads to Naes and Veblungsnaes diverge from each other at the bridge over the Rauma, the former continuing in a straight direction, the latter crossing the river. “rNws (*Aandal’s Inn, station), 17 Kil. from Horgheim and 5 Kil. from Aak, lies on the Isfjord, an arm of the Romdalsfjord to the N. of the mouth of the Rauma, commanding an admirable view of the mountains of the fjord, the Romsdal, and the Isterdal. Naes is better suited for a prolonged stay than Veblungsnaes, which is besides often overcrowded. 'i‘Veblungsnws (*Onsum’s Hotel; *Hotel Romsdal, small and moderate; *Enkefru Brit Sletten, in the village , unpretending), 16 Kil. from Horgheirn and 51/2 Kil. from Aak, lies on the Isfjord, to the S. of the mouth of the Rauma. Veblungsnaes commands a finer view of the Romsdalshom, and particularly of the Vengetinder, than Aak, but the situation of the place itself is far less picturesque than that of Aak or of Naes. Carriages are always in waiting here for those who wish to drive to Ask or Naes. The ‘Skydsstation’ is at Setnes, near the Przestegaard of Gryten, 20 min. walk from the pier. No fewer than four different well-defined coast-levels are ob- servable here (comp. p. xxxiii). — Sten, at the end of the Isfjord, see p. 195. From Sotnes or Aak through the Isterdal by a bridle-path, and down the Valdal by a road, to Sylte, a steamboat-station on the Norddalsfjord, in 1‘/-,»-2 days (see pp. 184. 185). The excursions mentioned above in connection with Aak may also be made from bless and Veblungsnaes. The finest is that along the W. bank of the fjord to Thorvik (3 hrs., there and back), with a visit to the hill above the Gjerseetvatn (p. 196), 1 hr. farther on. From Nazs and Veblungsnws to Molde, see RR. 23a, 23b. 16. Routes from the Gudbrandsdal to Jotunheim. 0f the four routes to Jotunheim described in the following pages the third is the most frequented, as it is used not only by travellers for Jotunheim but also by those who wish to pay a passing visit to this mountain-district on their way to the Sognefjord. The other three routes are also inferior in interest. In addition to this it may be noted that a strong wind on the Gjende (p. 140) or the Bygdin (p. 136) renders the approach to the Jotunheim proper diffieult or at least uncomfortable. a. From Kvisberg to Lake Gjende. 2 Days at least, the night being spent in a seat-er. A guide should be hired at Km'sberg or Espedalsvand (3-4 kr. per day). Kvz'sberg, the last station in the Gausdal, see p. 116. ——- A good bridle—path leads from Kvisberg in 11/2 hr. to — 8 Kil. (pay for 11) Vasendcn on the Espedalseand (about ‘2360 ft. above the sea-level; good quarters at A. C. Nielsen’s), a lake, 8 Engl. M. long, for the passage of which the landlord procures a AAKRE-SETER. ‘ 16. Route. 127 boat (1 kr. each person; for a single person 1 kr. 60 en). At the N. end of the lake we cross an ‘Eid’, beyond which is the Bredsje, about 3 Engl. M. long, forming the geological continuation of the Espedalsvand. Hans Halvorsen Flaate here provides a boat (40 0. each person; 60 e. for one) which conveys us to Veltcolden, or Rytviken, on the N. bank; and we ascend thence in less than 1 hr. to the Dalssaeter. To the right rises the Rutinfjeld (4968 ft.), to the left the Storhepig (4727 ft.), and opposite us the Hedatsmu- kampen (5900 ft.). Two routes lead from the Dalssaeter to Lake Gjende, one lying to the N. of the other: —- The Northern Path. leads from the Dalssaeter to the Kampestrter or to Veslund, both lying to the N. of Lake Otstappen (2 hrs.); the so-called ‘Sikkilsdalsvei’ then runs to the W. across the Sisal/field, crosses the Muru Loner, which descends from the N., by a bridge, and reaches the Aakre - Sector (3130 ft.; 4-5 hrs.), at the foot of the Aakrekampen (4633 ft.). The path then leads to the S. round the Sikhilsdalsha to the (11/2 hr.) Sikkilsdals-Saeter, the property of a company. If the wind is not too strong, we row across the two Sihhz'lsdalsvande; otherwise we must walk along the N. bank of the smaller lake, cross the ‘Bid’, and follow the S. bank of the larger lake, but at a considerable height above the water, in order to avoid the marshy ground. On the right rises the Sihktdalsho'rn, and on the left are the Gaapaapigge. We next cross ahill command- ing a beautiful view of the mountains and glaciers to the W., de- scend into the Sjodal, and cross the Sjoa to Gjendesheim (p. 142). The Southern Path leads from the Dalssaeter along the bank of the Espa, which descends from Lake Olstappen to the Bredvand. In the distance rises the Nautgardstind. The path, now difficult to trace, next crosses the Vinstra by a bridge, and leads thence nearly due N. to the (2 hrs.) Finbele-Saeter; then across the Fin- belhoug to the Hinagletid-Sazter and the (3 hrs.) Flysaeter, pictur- esquely situated. — Thence to the Sikkidals-Sazter, where this route unites with that mentioned above, 2-3 hrs. more. b. From Bjelstad to Lakes Gjende and Bygdin. 11/2—2 Days, spending a night at the G'rz'm'ngsdals-Stetre. Bjalstad in the Hedal, see p. 118. The path at first follows the left bank of the Sjoa, and leads past Aaseng and Fjer- dinggmmd to Gaarden Stene, to the N. of which is the Lussazter, commanding a magnificent distant view of Jotunheim, and well deserving a visit. We next reach (2 hrs.) the Rindssaater, at the confluence of the Sjoa and the Rindenelv. We may now follow the latter stream to (1 hr.) Bandsvwrk (2397 ft.; good saeters), and cross the Graahe to the S. to the Riddersprang (p. 130); or reach the same point from the Rindssaeter by following the Sjoa. From the Riddersprang the route follows the right (E .) bank of 128 RoutelG. GRININGSDALSSZETER. From G'udbrandsdal the Sjoa to the Saliensazter and the Stutgangen-Sceter. We now quit the Sjodal and turn to the S.E., round the Stutgangen-Kamp, and thus reach the Griningsdal, with its saeters (good quarters). The path leads round the large rocky knoll to the W. of the Griningsdal to the Kampsoete-r and the Grasviksaeter, at the N. end of the upper Sjodalsvand. From this point we may row to the Besst'randsaztre or Bes—saztre (p.131), and walk thence to Gjendeosen ; or we may walk the whole way thither, skirting the E. bank of the Sjodalsvand the first part of the way. —— ('r‘jendesheim, see p. 142. From Gjendesheim an interesting route (to which, however, the great difficulty of crossing the Leirungselv is a serious drawback) leads through the Hvre Leirungsdal to the Svartdal, and thence along the Svartdalsaaxle to the Gjendebod (p. 140). Guide necessary (5 kr. 20 6.). FROM GJENDESHEIM To LAKE BYGDIN (6-8 hrs., guide 4 kr.; not a very attractive route). The path leads on the S. bank of the Sioa to the Leirungsvand and passes round the E. side of the lake. It then ascends the course of a brook to the S. to the Brurskard- knatte, avoiding the extensive marshes of the Leirungselv‘ in the valley of that stream. Around the Leirungsdal rise the imposing Synshorn, Knutshultstind, Kjeernhultind, and Hogdebrattet. At the top of the hill towards the S. we reach a dreary plateau called the Valdersfly (Fly, ‘marshy mountain-plateau’), with its numerous ponds. Keeping a little to the E., we then descend by the Rypekjern stream to the Vinster'ua-nd or Stromvand. For a short distance we follow the W. bank of the lake, cross the Vinstra by a bridge, turn towards the S.W., past a spur of the Bitihorn, which has been visible from the Valdersfiy onwards, and thus reach the Raufiord Hotel near the E. end of Lake Bygdin (see p. 135). Those who take this journey in the reverse direction should‘ row from the Raufjord Hotel to the Sundsazter at the N.E. end of Lake Byg- din, and along the Breilaupa (p. 136), which descends from the Kalvaa- hogda on the N., ascend towards the N.E. to the Valdersfly, on which the route unites with that described above. 0. From Bredvangen to Rejshejm. 86 Kil. (54 Eng]. M.). Roan with fast stations (carriole 17 a. per Kil.) ~— This route is one of the principal approaches to Jotunheim and is also trailgé'fed by travellers from the Gudbrandsdal to the .Sognefjord (comp, p Bredoangen, see p. 119. -— The route diverges from the Gud- brandsdal road at Kringelen, to the N.,of Bredvangen, crosses the Lougen, and ascends the wooded and monotonous Ottadal. 11 Kil. Aasoren. We then pass the old farms of Bjernstad and Tolfstad. 16 Kil. Snerle, where. the road from Bjostad i Hedal and Storklevstad (p. 118) joins‘ ours. The valley now expands, and the snow-capped Lomsegge becomes visible in the distance. ~ ' 7 Kil.: 1-8ierrum (*Inn, comfortable), 1/4 hr. to the W. of which is the curious old church of Vaage. The road to Nordre Snerle and ‘Laurgaard diverges here (21 Kil. ; see p. 119). to Jotunheim. CHURCH OF LOM. 16. Route. 129 The road now follows the S. bank of a lake 40 Kil. (25 Engl. M.) in length, called the Vaagc'vand as far as Andvord, and the Otta- cand farther on, passing a number of gaards, some of which are historically interesting. Stow-vile, one of these gaards, where toler- able quarters are obtainable, about 12 Kil. from Serum, is pret- tily situated. The Thesse, which falls into the lake near this point, descends from the Thessevand (p. 130), and on its way forms several fine cascades. The most picturesque of these is the *Oxefos, which may be reached without a guide in 11/2-2 hrs. by following the E. bank of the stream. Opposite, on the N. bank of the lake, rises the Skardho (5340 ft.). 21 Kil. 'tGardmo, the next station, also lies on the S. bank of the lake, beyond which the road runs more inland. 15 Kil. TAndvo'rd (*Station), lies near the influx of the Bazora into the Vaagevand, which above this point is generally called the Ottaoand. From Andvord to the Geirangeojfjord, see R. 18. A view is obtained of the valleys of the Bzevra and Otta, se- parated by the huge Lomsegg. By the bridge of Lom the Baevra forms a waterfall, the milky colour of which indicates that it de- scends from glaciers. The alluvial deposits at the mouth of the stream have formed a considerable delta, which confines the Otta to the N. side of its valley. About 2 Kil. from Andvord we reach the — *Church of Lom (1290 ft.), one of the ancient Norwegian Stavekirlcer, built entirely of resinous pine-wood, and dating from the 13th or 14th century (comp. p. 21). The architectural forms recall the Byzantine style. The once open roof is now con- cealed by a flat ceiling, and there are other modern disfigurements. The Pulpit, with its sounding-board, and a silk Flag with a hand holding a sickle (Ljaa) are noteworthy. Hr. Brodahl, the pastor, who often obligingly shows the church himself, states that the flag was presented by a neighbouring farmer who introduced the system of irrigation many years ago. This must have been a great boon to the community, as rain is scarce in this district (comp. p. 163). The curious dragons’ heads on the outside of the church, the scale-like roof, the central tower, and the N. portal should also be noticed. The external woodwork is coated with tar, which has become as hard as stone. The restoration of the edifice is con- templated. — The churchyard contains interesting Tombstones of ‘Klzebersten’, or soapstone, in the form of crosses encircled with rings. —— A Stabbur at the Praestegaard, or parsonage, is also worthy of inspection. The road to Rejshjem now turns to the S.W. and ascends the narrow and at first well cultivated *Bazvmdal, with its brawling stream, a picturesque valley, especially when seen by morning light. One of the bridges is a curious old Norwegian structure, Bannnxmk‘s Norway and Sweden. 2nd Edit. 9 130 Route 16. FUGLSAETER. From Gudbrandsdal and another near Rejshjem is also an object of interest. At one point called the *Staberg, where there is a mill, the ravine is ex- tremely narrow, and huge blocks of rock have fallen into it from the hills above. Higher up, the valley expands, but at the same time becomes stony and sterile. Great caution is necessary in driving, as the narrow road runs close to the bed of the stream, at places. In the back—ground rise the Galdhe, which conceals the Galdhepig, and the Djwvbrw, forming a most imposing mass of ice and snow. ()n the right we pass the Guard Suleim, with a waterfall, and on the left the falls of the Glaa/ma. and the hamlet (Grand) of Glaamstad. 17 Kil. i-Rejshjem, see p. 14:’). d. From Storvik to Lake Gjende. 1l/2-2 Days. A walk which embraces several interesting points. Guide desirable as far as the Fuglsaeter. The night may be spent at the Fugl- sacter or at the Veoli-Saeter. From the Gudbrandsdal to Serum and Storoik, see p. 128. —— From Storvik the path ascends the right bank of the Thesseelv to the Ringnazsswter, thence to the SW. to the *Oxe/‘os, or Endin/‘os, and across the river to the Nordsmtre at the N.'W. end of the Thesse'vand (about 11/2 hr.), a lake 6 Engl. M. long, abounding in trout, and which is said to have been presented by St. Olaf to the inhabitants of Gardmo (p. 129). In 11/2 hr. more we row to the Naave'rsceter at the S. end of the lake, whence the route mentioned at p. 145 leads through the Smaadal to the Visdal. The path now traverses the disagreeable marshes formed by the Smaadela at its influx into the lake. A horse may possibly be ob- tained at the Naaversaeter to enable the traveller to cross the swamp dryshod; if not , he must keep as far as possible to the right in order to avoid it. Beyond this point the path leads to the S. to the (2-3 hrs. from the lake) —- Fuglszeter (3035 ft. ; good quarters). If time permit, the trav- eller may ascend the Fuglehe (see the Map), in order to obtain a view of the J otunheim Mountains. About 1/2 hr. to the S. of the Fuglsaeter we reach the pictur-. esque, pine-clad Sjodal, where a bridge leads to the E. to the right bank of the Sjoa. Near this spot, according to tradition, the ‘Val- dersridder’ with his abducted bride, when pursued by the ‘Sand- buridder’, sprang across the rocky chasm, which accordingly bears the name of Ridderspranget. (The route to Randsvaerk crosses this bridge; see p. 127.) _ Our route follows the left bank of the Sjoa, and after about _1 hr. quits the Sjodal and ascends to the W. to the Veoli- swter (good quarters), near the Veodal. ' The neighbouring *Veoknap commands an admirable survey of the Glittertind, Nautgardstind, etc. -— An uninteresting route, chiefly used by reindeer-stalkers, leads through the Veodal and crosses the Skautflyene, to Jot'unheim. BESSTRANDSZETER. 16.Route. 131 between the Glittertind and the Veobrm; it then descends by the Skauta- elv to the Ned're Sulhez'ms-Swter in the Visdal (p. 144). The route now descends into the Veodal, crosses the Veoelv by a bridge, and reaches the (11/2 hr.) Hindsmter in the Sjodal, near the influx of the Store Hinden into the Sjoa. A path leads hence, crossing the Sjoa by a bridge, to the Stutgangen Sceteq- on the E. side of the Sjodal, and to the Gm'nz'ngsdals-Soetre (p. 128), which command a fine view of the Nautgardstind to the W. After wading through, or leaping across, the Store and the Vesle (‘little’) Hinden, we next reach (about 11/2 hr.) the three —- Ruslienseetre (2648 ft. ; good quarters at all). The ASCENT OF THE NAUTGARDSTIND (‘neat-yard peak’), a broad and partly snow-clad pyramid but with a summit free from snow, may be made from these saeters in 3-4 hours. It is sometimes spoken of as a ‘Dametind’, partly because of its graceful form and partly because the ascent has been frequently accomplished by ladies. The path follows the cattle-track (‘kuraak’) to the Ht'ndfly, where it turns to the left to the Sendre Tvteraa and round the Russe Rundhe, traversing ‘Ur’. Fine view hence, to the S.W., of the Tykm'ngssuen (7710 ft.). We now come in sight of the slightly flattened and snowless summit of the *Naut- gardstind (7610 ft.), to which we have still a steep ascent of about 1/2 hr. on the N.E. side of the cone. On the W. side the Tind ends in a vast ‘Botn’ or basin, 1600 ft. in depth. To the E. the view embraces the extensive ‘Saetervidder’ of the Gudbrandsdal with their isolated peaks, as far as the Rondane and the Solentind in the Hsterdal. The pro- minent mountains to the S. are the Besho and the Knutshultstind, while far below us lies the dark-green Rusvand. The grandest peaks to the W. are the Memurutind, the Heilstuguhe, and the Leirhfl, with their con~ nected glaciers; then the Galdhepig, and nearer us the Glittertind. FROM THE RUSLIEN-SIETRE TO THE MEMURUBOD on Lake Gjende, a long and somewhat fatiguing day’s walk (9 hrs.). The route at first follows the left bank of the Russenelv, crosses the Sendre and Nordre Tvwo-aa (which must be forded), and reaches the (3 hrs.) Rusvasbod, at the E. end of the crescent-shaped Rusvand (4263 ft.), a lake 7 Engl. M. in length. The little frequented path skirts the N. bank of the lake, crossing several mountain-torrents. To the S. are the precipices of the massive Beshe (see below). At the (3 hrs.) W. end of the lake we ascend the Rusglop, between the Gloptt'nd on the S. and the Tjukm'ngssuen on the N., and then pass the Hesttjeo'n, lying to the right. After following the height to the S. for some distance farther, there is a steep descent to the (3-4 hrs.) Memm'ubod (p. 142), where the muddy Memm'uelv is crossed by a bridge. Thence to the Gjendebod, p. 140 The route from the Rusliensaeter to Gjendeosen (Gjendesheim) crosses the Russenelv and leads to the S. over a spur of the Bes- strandfjeld to the (11/2 hr.) Besstrandsaeter, at the W. end of the lower Sjodalsvand. It next skirts the W. bank of the upper and larger Sjodalsvand, affording a view of the Mugnafjeld, Synshorn, and other lofty mountains towards the S.W., and in 11/2 hr. more reaches the two -— . Bes-Saetre (3205 ft.; good quarters at the upper sister), whence the ascents of the Veslefield, Beseggen, and Beshe are accomplished (comp. p. 142). . From the Bes-saeters we have a walk of 1 hr. more to Gjendeo~ sen (Gjcndesheim; see p. 142). 9* 132 17. Jotunheim. Comp. the Map. The greater part of Norway, as has been repeatedly mentioned, consists mainly of a vast table-land, descending abruptly at the margins, rising occasionally into rounded summits, and rarely intersected by valleys. 1n marked contrast, however, to this un- picturesque formation , that of several districts presents the ‘Alpine’ characteristic of well-defined mountain-ranges furrowed with frequent valleys. The most important of these districts are the Lyngenfjord in Tromse Amt (p. 251) and the region bounded by the Sognefjord on the W. and the plateaux of Valders and the Gudbrandsdal on the S. and N.E. respectively. The latter was explored for the first time by Keilhau in 1820 and named by him Jotunflieldene, or the ‘Giant Mountains’, but is now generally known as Jotunheim, a name given to it by subsequent ‘Jotuno- logists’ (chiefly Norwegian students) as a reminiscence of the ‘frost giants’ in the Edda. The mountain-peaks of Jotunheim (called Tinder, Pigger, Horner, and Naebber, while the rounded summits are named Heer) are all over 5900 ft., several are upwards of 6550, while the Galdhepig (p. 146) and the Glittertind (p. 144) exceed 8200 ft. in height. The high Alps are much loftier (Mont Blanc, 15,784 ft.), but are generally surpassed by the Jotunheim mountains in ab— ruptness. The plateaux extending between the lofty peaks are almost entirely covered with snow, the snow-line here being about 5580 ft. (in Switzerland 8850 ft.). Huge glaciers (Breecr, the smaller being called Huller, holes) descend from these masses of snow, but without penetrating into the lower valleys as they do in Switzerland. The mountain-basins which occur here frequently, enclosed by precipitous sides rising to 1600 ft. or more, are known as Botner. A peculiarity of the valleys, which with a few ex— ceptions, lie upwards of 3300 ft. above the sea—level (i. e. higher than the forest-zone), is that they rarely terminate in a pass, but intersect the whole mountain, gradually rising on each side to a ‘Band’ or series of lakes where no distinct culminating point is observable. The interest of the scenery of Jotunheim is greatly enhanced by its three imposing lakes. The Norwegian Twist-Forming, which began its operations in 1868 (comp. Introd. iv), has rendered invaluable service to trav- ellers by the construction of paths, bridges, and refuge-huts, and by the appointment of competent guides. Several private indivi- duals have followed their good example by erecting other refuges (dignified with the name of ‘hotels’), so that travelling here is now attended with no serious difficulty or hardship. The huts generally contain clean beds and a supply of preserved meats, beer, and other refreshments at moderate charges (bed and food 3-4 kr. per day), but in some cases the broad bed must be shared with a fellow- 1: 500.000 v a JOTUNHEIM. 17. Route. 133 traveller. As members of the Turist-Forening, who are recog- nisable by their club-button , always have a preference over other travellers, those who intend to explore this region thoroughly are recommended to enrol themselves at Christiania, Bergen, Thrond— hjem, or Fagernaes (4 kr. per annum, and 80 6. additional for the ‘Klubknap’). On some~ of the excursions the only accommodation as yet procurable is at the sectors and ‘Faeboder’ or ‘Faelmger’, kept by good-natured cow-herds (Ftekarle or Driftekarle) who regale the traveller with ‘Fladbred’, milk, cheese, and butter, and can gener— ally provide him with a tolerable bed (11/2-2 kr. per day for bed and food). Comp. the remarks on Saeter Life at p. 123. The chief PoIN'rs or INTEREST in the J otunheim centre around the W. end of the Bygdin-Sje and the Gjende—Sje, and are most conveniently visited from Eidsbugarden (p. 138) and the Gjende- bod (p. 140). Besides these there are several places which com- mand admirable views of the Horunger (pp. 155,159); lastly the Utladal (p. 155), the Leirdal (p. 158), the Vz'sdal (p. 145), and the Galdhepig (p. 146). Unless the traveller is prepared for a somewhat rough expedition with 8-10 hrs. walking daily, he should content himself with walking or riding to Eidsbugarden, ascending the Sleinegg (p. 138), and visiting the ice-lake in the Mellaedal (p. 151). The following are the best STARTING POINTS for a tour in Jo- tunheim: — Skogstad and Nystuen (p. 92), from which Eidsbu- garden is a short day’s walk only; Aardal (p. 97) on the Sogne- fjord, whence we proceed in 7-8 hrs. to the Vettisfos (p. 99), the starting-point of the routes mentioned at pp. 154, 155; and lastly Skjolden on the Sognefjord (comp. p. 158). On the journeys de- scribed in R. 16, however, the traveller must be prepared for frequent delays, with the exception of R. c, from Bredvangen to Rejshjem (p. 128). The time occupied in crossing Lake Bygdin (p. 136) also greatly protracts the route from Fagerlund, which is otherwise an interesting approach to Jotunheim (comp. p. 134). The EQUIPMENT required by the traveller is similar to that used by Alpine mountaineers, but everything should if possible be even more durable, as he will frequently have to ford torrents, wade through marshes, and walk over very rough stony ground (Ur) for hours in succession. Heavy luggage should be left behind, as it hampers the tra- veller‘s movements, besides requiring an additional horse for its trans- ort. As each guide is not bound to carry luggage weighing more than lbs. , a party of several travellers must either engage several guides, or carry part of their own belongings. The usual fee is 4 kr. per day, but the charges for the different expeditions are given in each case. No charge is made for the return-journey. In the hire paid for a horse the services of an attendant are never included, but must be paid for sep- arately; if he is a full-grown man (voxen mand) he receives the same fee as the guide. In accordance with the standard Norwegian rule of travel, which applies specially to J otunheim, horses, guides, and boats should always be ordered in good ,time, and if possible on the day before they are wanted. 134 Route 17. ROGNE. Jotunheim. a. From Fagerlund in Valders to the Raufjord Hotel, and across Lake Bygdin to Eidsbugarden. 88 Kil. (55 Engl. M.). A journey of two days: 1st. Drive to (29 Kil.) Northorp, or to Beito, 17 Kil. farther; Walk to the Raufjord Hotel in 3 hrs. —— 2nd. Ascend the Bitz'horn early in the morning, 3-4 hrs. there and back; row across Lake Bygdz'n to Eidsbugarden in 8 hrs. The following outline of a tour including the finest scenery of Jo- tunheim may also be given here: —- 1st Day. From Fagerlund to the Raufjord Hotel, and ascend the Bitz'horn in the evening. — 2nd. Row to the Nybud (p. 136), and walk through the Thorfinsdal and Svartdal to the Gjendebod (p. 140) on Lake Gjende. —— 3rd. Ascend the Memm'utunge with a- guide, and walk in the afternoon to Eidsbugarden (p. 138). —— 4th. As- cend the Skinegg (p. 138), returning by Tvz'ndehoug on Lake Tyin (a short day). -— 5th. Proceed with guide through the Melkedal to Skogadalsboen. —- 6th. With guide across the Keiser to Fortun (p. 159), or through the Utla- dal (p. 155) to the Vettisfos. Fagerlund in Valders, see p. 90. —— The road to the district of Gstre-Slidre diverges to the N.W. from the Laerdalseren road and enters the valley of the Hstre-Slid're Elv. It is nearly level at first, but afterwards ascends rapidly through a wood. To the left, below, lies the Saebo-Fjord, high above which stand several gaards. In the distance rise snow-mountains. Several gaards and on the right the loftily situated church of Slcmtoold are passed. Below the road, farther on, lies the Ho'vsbygd with the Hoos- fjo'rd. A steep track to the right leads to large slate-quarries. 17 Kil. 'l-Bogne (*Inn, often full in summer) lies just beyond the church of that name. Below lies the Voldbofjord, at the N. end of which is the church of Voldbo. To the E. rise Meltene, a considerable range of heights, on the W. slope of which is the Ziangenshai, affording a fine survey of the Bitihorn, Mugnafjeld, and other mountains. Rogue is the last ‘fast’ posting- station on the road. From Rogne across the Slidreaas to Rez'en (22 Kil.), by a good road, see p. 90. The scenery now becomes monotonous. The road crosses the Vindeel'v, which descends to the Voldbofjord and forms a water- fall higher up. It next skirts the Ha’ggefiord, and then ascends steeply to Hagge, with its old timber-built *Ghurch, to the right of which is a tombstone to the memory of a student who perished while attempting to cross the Breilaupa (p. 136). 13 Kil. Northorp, a genuine Norwegian gaard, affords good accommodation (‘hermetiske Sager’, trout, etc.). The intelligent landlord, who is the ‘lensmand’ of the district, will provide a cart, if required , to convey the traveller to Beito (for 2 persons, about 5 kr.). To the left, farther on, are the Dalsfjord and the Mat-sta- fiord, which a river connects with each other and with the He- dalsfiord. 8 Kil. Hedalcn. The new road descends to Lake Qiangen. Fine view of the lake, with the Stellefield, Mugnatind, and Biti'hom Qseebelow), past the last of which runs the route to the .Raufjord. Jotunheim. BITIHORN. 17. Route. 135 8 Kil. Beito (Guldbrand Beito, two rooms with four beds; horses not always to be had). On Sundays the neighbouring peasantry assemble here to dance their national ‘Springdans’, accompanied by the strains of the ‘Norske Harp’. About 3/4 hr. to the W. is the dwelling of Knut Lekken, one of the best guides for the Jotunheim. The path from Beito to the Raufjord Hotel (guide 11/2 kr.; comp. Map, p. 130) leads to the N.W., and is at first nearly level, but afterwards ascends steeply. At (1 hr.) the top of the hill is a marshy plateau enclosed by mountains, the Mugnatind to the W., and the precipitous Bitihorn. (By making a digression of 2-3 hrs., with a guide, the traveller may now ascend the Bitihorn, via the Bitihorn-Saeter, but the excursion is easier from the Raufjord; see below.) In 1/2 hr. more we reach the Snwrhul saeter, beyond which the path ascends steeply for 1 hr. more. Extensive view towards the S. ; quite near us, on the left, rises the Bitihorn. The path now descends towards the N., close to the precipitous rocks (echo). After a walk of 3/4 hr. across marshy ground, passing round the Bitihorn, we reach the houses on the Raufjord, which are inhabited in summer only. The northernmost of these is called the —- Baufjord Hotel (3600 ft.), the property of Knut Lekken (men- tioned above), containing four beds , and affording tolerable food (inferior to the club-huts; charges the same). The second house belongs to a merchant in Christiania, and the third is used by the guides. This spot is almost beyond the zone of trees, and the ground is but scantily covered with ‘Rab’, juniper bushes, dwarf birches, and Arctic willows. -— The water of the Raufjord, an arm of Lake Bygdin, is strongly impregnated with iron, tinging the stones on its bank with its reddish colour (whence the name, mu. being the same as mud or red, ‘red’). This desolate region, in which several snow-mountains are visible, resembles an Arctic landscape. Lake Bygdin is not itself visible, and the Bitihorn is concealed by an intervening height. The ASCENT OF THE BITIHORN from the Raufjord Hotel takes 3-4 hrs. , there and back (guide unnecessary). The traveller as— cends the W. slope the whole way to the top. Several swamps near the beginning of the ascent are avoided by keeping to the left as far as possible. The summit soon becomes visible, serving as a guide. For an hour the route traverses ‘Rab’ or underwood and the whitish soil peculiar to the Norwegian mountains, and for another hour it ascends somewhat steeply over rock. Near the top is a cleft with perpendicular sides, containing snow and ice at the bottom. The *Bitihorn (5270 ft.) rises on the boundary between Jotun- heim and the great plateau extending to the E. of that region. To the W. we survey an imposing Alpine scene, and to the E. a lofty table-land diversified with large lakes and a few peaks, while Lake 136 Route 17. LAKE BYGDIN. Jottmheim. Bygdin lies immediately below, on the N.W. side of the Bitihorn. This mountain may therefore be called the ‘Rigi’ of Norway. To the W. rise the mountains near Lake Bygdin, conspicuous among which are the Kalvaahegda and Thorfinstinder; more to the left, the Uranaastind, the Langeskavl, the Horunger, and Koldedats- tinder. Towards the E. rise the isolated summits of Skaget and Mellene, and below us lie the Vinstervande. To the N. we ob- serve the grey Valdersfly, and farther distant , to the N. of Lake Gjende, the Beshe and Nautgardstind. To the S. are Lake Bian- gen, the valley of Zstre Sttdre, and the Mugnatind, Suletind, and other mountains. FROM THE RAUFJORD HOTEL 'ro EIDSBUGARDEN by boat in 7-8 hrs., including stoppages (for 1, 2, 3 persons with two rowers 8 kr. 40 en, 10 kr., 12 kr. respectively; to Nybud only, 4 kr., 4 kr. 40, 5 kr. 20 a. ; those who hire a guide here may utilise him as a rower, so that one other only need be taken). Crossing the Rau— fjord, the boat soon passes through the Bygdinsund and enters *Lake Bygdin (3610 ft.), the largest of the three lakes of Jotun- heim, about 15 Engl. M. in length from E. to W. , and 2-4 M. in breadth. On the N. side it is bounded by precipitous mountains, at the base of which lies a strip of excellent pasturage. The large herds of cattle which graze here in summer are sent to the Chris- tiania market in September. The S. bank is lower and less pic.- turesque. Storms sometimes render the navigation of the lake impracticable, in which case the traveller must walk along the N. bank to Eidsbugarden (10-12 hrs.). The boat skirts the N. bank. On the right we first observe the Nedre Sazter and the Breilaupa which descends from the Kalvaa- hegda (see below). By another torrent is the saeter of Hestevolden, where a halt is usually made. The traveller may creep into the hut, which closely resembles a Lapp ‘Gamme’ (p. 249), and the night may be spent here if necessary. The Kalvaahegda (7170 ft.) may be ascended hence, and the descent made to the Leirungsbra. We next pass the deep Thorfinsdal (see below), with remains of ancient moraines at its entrance. At the base of the Thor/ins— tind we then reach the Langedals-Sater, and near it the Nybud, a shooting-lodge belonging to Hr. Stehli, a ‘Storthingmand’, of which the neighbouring cow-herd has the key. From the Nybud we may ascend the huge *Thorflnstind (about 7050 ft.; 6-7 hrs.), the jagged crest of which is called the Brudefalge (‘bridal procession’). Fine survey of Lake Bygdin and half of Valders, and particularly of the other Thorfinstinder to the N., the Svartdals- pigge, and the Knutshultstind (p. 141). FROM THE Nrnun 'ro LAKE Gsrmnn there are two routes. One leads to the N.W. through the Langedal, passing the Langedalstjaarn, and cross- ing the glacier (6200 ft.) between the Sletmarkhe (7173 ft.) on the left and the Svartdalspt'gge (7120 ft.) on the right into the Vesle Aadal. Guide 2kr., but rarely to be found at the Nybud. The expedition is very grand, but somewhat toilsome. -- A preferable route (guide 2 kr., but unnecessary) Jotunheim. SVARTDALSAAXLE. 1 7. Route. 137 leads to Lake Gj ende in 4-5 hrs. through the Thorflnsdal and the Svartdal. It ascends steeply at first on the W. side of the Thorfinsdalselv, com- manding a view of the whole valley, which is separated from the Svart- dal to the N. by a ‘Band’, or lofty plain with a series of lakes (p. 132). The path follows the W. side of the valley. To the left, farther on, we obtain a superb view of the Thorjinshul, a basin formed by the Thorfins- tinder; before us rise the three Knutshultstt'nder, which enclose the Knuts- hul, but the highest of them is not visible. Adjoining the northernmost are several peaks of Alpine character. The highest part of the route is reached at the S. end of the long ‘Tjaern’ (tarn), whence we perceive the mountains to the N. of Lake Gjende, particularly the pointed Semmel- tind; to the E. the mountain with a sharply cut outline is the Leirungs- kampen. We may now either walk over the disagreeable rough stones (Ur) on the W. side of the valley, or wade through the river and de- scend on the almost equally stony E. side. In the latter case we recross to the W. side (4750 ft.) by a small pond fart-her on. We now enter the Svartdal, of which there is no definite boundary. On the left tower the imposing Svartdalspiggene, from which the Svao'tdals Glacier descends. We cross the glacier as low down as possible, where it is level and presents no difficulty. The crevasses are not deep , but may be awkward if covered with snow. To the right lies the Svartdalstjazrn, out of which the Svart- data flows to the N. (The passage of the Brae-V613 or moraine at the bottom of the glacier, is objectionable.) Farther on we cross a deposit of snow. We soon reach the huge precipice descending to Lake Gjende, called Gjendebrynet, through which the Svartdola has worn a deep gorge (Sva'rtdalsglupet). We may either follow the latter from ‘Varde‘ t0 ‘Varde’, or (better) ascend a ridge covered with loose stones to the left to the *Svartdalsaaxle, which commands an admirable survey of the whole N. side of Jotunheim. To the N.W. are the Melkedalstind (below which lies the Grisletjaern), and the Rauddalstinder, Smerstabstinder, and Skarvedals— tinder; to the N. the Semmeltind, a peak of pyramidal form, the Memu- rutind, Tykningssuen, and Nautgardstind; to the E. the Besho and Besegg; while at our feet lie the dark-green Gjende with the Gjendetunge and Memurutunge. (From this point the Svartdalspig, 7120 ft., may be as- cended without difficulty.) We now descend to the W., below the Lange— dalsbrae, somewhat steeply, but over soft grass. The route then descends by the course of the glacier-stream into the Vesle-Aadal, whence it soon reaches the GJENDEBOD (p. 140). On reaching Lake Gjende, the traveller may prefer to shout for a boat to convey him across the water. (Those who descend through the Svartdalsglupet are dependent on a boat, as they do not emerge on the path.) Continuing our voyage on Lake Bygdin, we next pass the Langedalselv and soon reach the Galdeberg, where there is a small uninhabited hut. This a curiously situated spot, and well clothed with vegetation (French willows, aconite, bilberries, etc.). From the hill falls the Galdebergsfos. On the S. side of the lake rises Dryllenasset (4864 ft.). Rounding the precipitous rocks of the Galdeberg (which have to be crossed by persons traversing the bank of the lake on foot, who must ascend to a height of 1600 ft. above the lake), we observe to the right above us the Galdebergs- tind and facing us the Langeskacl (or Rustegg) with the Uranaas— tind, presenting one of the sublimest spectacles in Jotunheim. On the right next opens the valley of the Tolorma (Haistakka), which forms a waterfall, with the Grashorung (or Sjoghulstind, 7147 ft.) in the background. To the S.W. rise the Koldedalstin- der, and to the S. the Skinegg. Looking back, we observe the three peaks of the Sletmarkha. The lake owes its milky‘ colour to 138 Route 17. SKINEGG. Jotunheim. the Melkedola, a genuine glacier-brook. After a row from the Raufjord Hotel of about 8 hrs. in all, we reach the timber-built— Eidsbugarden, or Eidsbud, situated at the W. end of Lake Bygdin, about 100 ft. above the water, where the accommodation is similar to that afforded by the club-huts (same charges). This is the most beautifully situated ‘hotel’ in Jotunheim, and is the starting-point for several magnificent excursions. The ascent of the *Skinegg (ca. 5085 ft.) from Eidsbugarden takes 11/2 hr. (or there and back 2% hrs.; no guide required). We cross the stream descending from the Eid between lakes Byg- din and Tyin, and ascend straight to the northern peak, avoiding the soft snow-fields as much as possible. (The southern peak is apparently, but not really, the higher.) The view from the sum- mit, where rocks afi‘ord welcome shelter, is justly considered the finest in Jotunheim, though shut out on the E. side by the higher ‘Egg’ (edge, ridge) of which the Skinegg is a spur. To the S. we survey the Tyin and the whole of the Fillefjeld, with the Stugunos near Nystuen and the majestic Suletind. 0f more absorb- ing interest are the mountains to the W. and N., where Tyseggen, the Gjeldedalstinder and Koldedalstinder (Falketind, Stolsnaastind) with their vast mantles of snow, and farther distant the Horunger (begin- ning with_the Skagastfllstind on the left, and ending with the Stygge- dalstind to the right) rise in succession. Next to these are the Fleske- dalstinder, the Langeskavl, the Uranaastind, with a huge glacier on its S. side, the Melkedalstinder, the Grashorung, and other peaks. To the N. rise the mountains on the N.W. side of Lake Gjende, and still more prominent are the Sletmarkho, Galdebergstind, and Thorfinstinder on Lake Bygdin. Of that lake itself a small art of the W. end only is visible. To TVINDEHOUG on LAKE TYIN (p. 1 9) we may descend direct from the Skinegg towards the S.W. -- A circuit to the top of the Skinegg, down to Tvindehoug, and back to Eidsbugarden may be made in 5-6 hrs. The ASCENT OF THE LANGESKAVL, there and back, takes half-a-day (guide necessary, 2 kr.). The route ascends the course of the Melkedola (see below), and, instead of turning to the right towards the Melkedal, leads to the left into a side-valley, where we keep as far as possible to the right. The bare summit of the Langeskavl (about 5900 ft.) towers above masses of snow. The view embraces the mountains seen to the W. of the Skinegg, to which we are now nearer, and also the whole of Lake Bygdin as far as the Bitihorn. The URANAASTIND (6-7 hrs. from Eidsbugarden, or a whole day there and back; guide necessary, 4 kr.) is ascended partly by the route to the Langeskavl, which after a time is left to the W. in order to ascend the extensive Uranaasbrw. We then cross that glacier to the Broeskard, whence we look down into the Skogadal to the W. (p. 152). Lastly an ascent on the N. side of about SOOft. more to the summit of the *Ura- naastind (7037 ft.), which is also free from ice or snow. This is the highest E. point of the Uranaase, the W. end of which also presents an imposing appearance when seen from Skogadalsboen (p. 156). The extensive view vies with that from the Galdhopig (p. 146). Towards the E. the Ura- naa'stind descends precipitously into the Uradal (p. 154). To the S. it sends orth two glaciers, the Uranaasbrae , already mentioned, and the Melke alsbroe, the E. arm of which descends into the Melkedal (p. 151), while the W. arm, divided again by the Melkedalspigger, descends partly into the Melkedal, and partly to the Skogadal (p. 152). Experienced mountaineers may descend the mountain by the last-named arm of the glacier, which has to be traversed for 1 hr.; the lower part only is fur- rowed with crevasses (Sproekker). ' ‘ ‘ ' Jotunheim. TVINDEHOUG. 17. Route. 139 b. From Skogstad and Nystuen to Tvindehoug and Eidsbugarden. 30 Kil. BRIDLE PATH (horse to Tvindehoug 11 kr.). Some travellers, however, will prefer to walk to (2 hrs.) Lake Tyin, row to (12 Kil.) Tvin- dehoug, and walk thence to (6 Kil.) Eidsbugarden. Skogstad and Nystuen on the Fittefjeld (see p. 92), lying on the great route through Valders to the Sognefjord, are favourite start- ing-points for Jotunheim (horses and guides at both). By the Opdatstele, about halfway between these stations, the route to Lake Tyin diverges to the N. and in 1 hr. crosses the hill which separates it from the district of Valders. Fine view from the top of the hill of the snowy Gjeldedalstind, the Koldedalstind, and the Stelsnaastind to the NW. of the lake. Lake Tyin (3296 ft.), 10 Engl. M. long and 2 M. broad, with a wide bay at the W. end from which the Aardeta issues, is a beauti- ful Alpine lake, the banks of which, like those of the other lakes of Jotunheim are uninhabited, except by a few cow-herds in sum- mer, the most important of whose ‘Faelaeger’ are marked in the map (p. 130). At the S. end, where the lake is reached, a boat is generally procurable to convey travellers to Tvindehoug (for 1, 2, 3 persons with 1 rower 2 kr. 40, 2 kr. 80, 3 kr. 20 e. ; with 2 rowers 3 kr. 60, 4 kr. 40, 5 kr. 20 en); otherwise they must walk along the E. bank of the lake (31/2 hrs.). On every side rise lofty moun- tains. Above the Fzelager of M a-atnms towers the pyramidal Uranaas— tind (p. 138), and to the S. rises the Suletind on the Fillefjeld. Tvindehoug (3330 ft.), a large club-hut belonging to the Tu- rist-Forening, is one of the chief stations of the Jotunheim guides. Ascent of the Skinegg (p. 138) 11/2-2 hrs. ; guide hardly necessary. The Koldedalstind or Falkett'nd (6700 ft.), to the NW. of Lake Tyin. is most conveniently ascended from Tvindehoug (8-10 hrs., guide, Ole Olsen Skattebo, 4 kr.). We row across the lake, ascend the valley of the Koldedela to the foot of the Falketind, and then climb, most of the way over glaciers, to the summit. The view is one of the wildest in Jotun- heim. The Falketind was ascended in 1820 by Prof. Keilhau and 0111‘. Boeck, and was the first of the Jotunheim mountains ever climbed. —— The dangerous descent to the Koldedal (p. 155) should not be attempted. Skirting the lake, and then crossing the low Bid or isthmus which separates lakes Tyin and Bygdin, we reach Eidsbuga'rden (p. 138) in 11/2 hr. more. 0. From Eidsbugarden' to the Gjendebod on Lake Gjende. From Eidsbugarden to the Gjendebod, 4-5 hrs.; guide (hardly neces- sary) 2 kr. 40 5., horse 4 kr. (A still finer route than the present is that already described, from the Nybud through the Thorfinsdal, pp. 136, 137.) On the same afternoon ascend the Memurutunge and return by boat from the Memurubod. Eidsbugarden, see p. 138. We row to the N. bank of Lake Bygdin, as there is no bridge across the rapid Melkedela (p. 151), and follow the path on the bank to (1 hr.) Tolormbod, at the. mouth of ‘the Tolorma or Heistakka, which point may also be reached by boat (with one rower, for 1, 2, 3 persons, 800., 1 kr., 140 Route 17. LAKE GJENDE. Jotunheim. or 1 kr. 20 0.). Grand retrospective view of the snow-mountains to the W. (comp. p. 137). The path ascends the left bank of the Tolorma, on the W. slope of the Galdebergstind, and mounts the Ordalhe, crossing (11,/2 hr.) a brook which descends from that mountain. The route then leads somewhat steeply up the Gjethe to the N.E. to the plateau of Grenneberg. To the left rises the Grashorung (7146 ft.) with the Snehul, and to the right the huge Stetmarkhe (7173 ft.), the glacier of which descends into the Vesle Aadal. Having crossed the Grenneberg, we descend rapidly to the N.E. into the Vesle Aadal, which is bounded on the N. by the Gjendetunge, and follow the brook down to Lake Gjende. Here we turn to the N., pass round the Gjendetunge, and cross by a new bridge to the —- Gjendebod, a well-equipped club-hut, situated at the entrance to the Store Aadal, and at the foot of the precipices of the Me- murutunge. It accommodates 20 persons; and the moderate char— ges are fixed by tariff (good wine). Guide : Erik Slaalien. — Boat to the Memurubod with 1 rower for 1, 2, or 3 pers., 2 kr., 2 kr. 40, 3 kr. 20 0., with 2 rowers 3kr. 60, 4kr., 4 kr. 80 0. ; to Gjen— desheim with 1 rower 3 kr. 20, 4kr., 5kr. 20, with 2rowers 6kr., 6 kr. 80 0., 8 kr. (also for 4pers.). The second rower should not be dispensed with, though his place may be supplied by the guide. *Lake Gjende (3310 ft.), 11 Engl. M. long and 1/2-1 M. in width, extends from W. to E., where the Sjoa, a tributary of the Lougen, issues from it. It presents a still more Alpine character than Lake Bygdin. On both sides, it is enclosed by perpendicular mountains, among which the Beshe (7580 ft.), on the N. or ‘Sol- side’, and the Knutshultstind (7782 ft.), and Svartdalspig (7120 ft.), on the S. or ‘Bagside’, are the loftiest. These peaks, however, cannot be seen from the Gjendebod, but become visible as we ascend the Store Aadal. There are but few places on the banks of the lake where landing or walking for any distance is practicable. The colour of the water is green, especially when seen from a height. The lake is fed by a very small number of wild glacier-torrents. Storms often render the lake dangerous for boating for days to- gether, and the N. wind sometimes divides in the middle of the ' lake and blows at the same time towards the E. and towards the W. The lake is also often covered with fog (Gjendeskacen). The ASCENT OF THE MEMURUTUNGE takes about 4 hrs., or including the descent to the Memurubod 6 hrs. at least (guide 2 kr.). From the Gjendebod we may either make the extremely steep ascent to the E. by the Bukkelazger or the Hagstuele'fte (dangerous without a guide), or follow the bridle-path through the Store Aadal for about 1% hr., ascending the left bank of the stream, and then ascend rapidly to the right (prac- ticable for riding; see below). The *Iemurutunge, a hilly plateau about 4800 ft. in height, with snow-fields, small lakes, and interesting Alpine flora, forms a kind of mountain-peninsula, bounded on the W. by the Store Aadal, on the S. by the Gjende, and on the E. and N. by the Memuruelv. Farther to the N. it is encircled by lofty snow mountains. The VIEW is magnificent. To the S. are the Knutshultstind with its Jotunhcim. RAUDDAL. 1 7. Route. 141 deep ‘Hul‘, and the Svartdalspig, between which lies the deep Svartdal, then the Langedal and the Sletmarkha, to the W. rise the pointed Melke- dalstinder and Rauddalstinder, prominent among which is the Skarvdalstind, all near the Rauddal. To the N.W. lies the Langevand with the Smflr- stabtinder, the Kirke, and the Uladalstinder. To the N. the Hinaa- kjernha, Memurutind, and Tykningssuen. To the E. the Besha and other peaks. —- Instead of returning by the same route, it is far more interesting to traverse the Memurutunge to its E. end and then descend the steep slope to the Memurubod in the valley of that name. In this case a boat must be ordered before starting to meet the traveller at this point. From the Gjendebod we may also ascend the *Gjendetunge (5096 ft.), which commands the same view as the Memurutunge, with the ad- dition of a survey of the whole lake. We cross the bridge to the W., follow the path on the W. bank of the river to the N. for about 1/2 hr., and then ascend steeply to the left. The ascent of the Knutshultstind (7820 ft.) from Gjendebod presents no great difficulty (8 hrs.). We cross the lake and ascend the Svartdals- glupet (p. 137) to the Svartdal, whence We climb to the E. to the summit. The first ascent was made in 1875. ‘ FROM THE GJENDEBOD 'ro SKoGADALsBgEN THROUGH THE RAUDDAL, 10-12 hrs. (guide 5 kr. 40 6.; to Berge near Fortun 6 kr. 4015.). If the Muran saeter in the Utladal (p. 157) is open, which may be learned at the Gjendebod, the night had better be spent there, in whichever direction the route is taken. (Instead of the Rauddal route, the traveller may prefer that through the Store Aadal, the Gravdal, and the Utladal, 1% day, a night being spent on the Leirvand. Guide to Berge 10 kr.; horse, with side- saddle if desired, 4 kr. per day, and as much more to the attendant.) The route leads up the Store Aadal on the right bank as far as a (1/2 hr.) waterfall formed by a brook descending from the Grisletjaern. It then ascends rapidly to the left. Farther on, it crosses the brook and leads on the N. side of the Grisletjwa-n and the following tarns to the Rauddals- houg (3 hrs. from the Gj endebod), where the Rauddal begins. This grand, but unpicturesque valley, with its almost uninterrupted series of lakes, lies to the N. of and parallel with the Melkedal (p. 151). The valley is nearly level, and there is no distinguishable watershed. Here and there are large boulders deposited by the glacier which must once have filled the valley. On reaching the ‘Band’, or culminating point we enjoy admirable *VIEws in both directions: to the right rise the Rauddalstt'nder (7410 ft.), to the left is the Melkedalstt'nd with its perpendicular wall, and between them peeps the Fanaraak (p. 150) in the distance, looking back, we ob- serve the Rauddalstind on the left, the Snehulsts'nd (Grashorung) on the right, and between them the Sletmarkha (p. 136) with a fine amphitheatre of glaciers. It takes about 11/2 hr. to cross the ‘Band‘, from which a route leads to the W. round the Svartdalsegg to the Langvand and the Store Aadal (a round of 10—12 hrs. from the Gjendebod). We next‘ cross the Rauddalselv by a snow-bridge and traverse rough and toilsome ‘Ur‘ and patches of snow on the W. side of the valley, skirting a long lake for the last 1% hr. (patience very necessary here). As we approach the *Rauddals- mund, the precipice with which the Raudal terminates towards the Store Utladal, the scenery again becomes very grand. A view is obtained of the mountains of the Utladal and Gravadal, including the curiously shap- ed Smarstabta'nd, from which the Sjortningsbroe descends. To the E. we survey the whole of the Rauddal, lying between the Rauddalsts'nd on the N. and the Melkedalstz'nd (p. 151) on the S. (the latter being the moun- tain which descends so precipitously into the Melkedal). The red (raud, red) colour of the ‘gabbro‘ rock-formation here has given rise to the name of the valley. Erratic glacier-blocks occur frequently. The route now descends on the S. side of the waterfall of the Rand- dalselv to the Store Utladal, about 3/4 hr. above the Muran-Swter (p. 157). The *Journey by boat across Lake Gjende, fromGjendeboden to Gjendeosen, takes 6 hrs., but is not practicable in stormy weather. 142 Route 17. BESEGG. Jotunheim. Soon after starting a view is obtained to the S. of the Svartdal (p. 137), at the entrance of which lies the cattle-shed of Vaage- boden. To the N. are the slopes of the Memurutunge (p. 140). About halfway, at the mouth of the Memurudal, is the club-hut of Memurubod. To the N.W., at the head of the Memurudal, rises the Semmeltind. Toward the N .E. the Beshe is conspicuous, while more to the E. the Veslefijeld descends precipitously to the lake. From the E. end of the lake, named Gjendeosen, issues the small river Sjoa. On the N. bank here lies the club-hut of Gjen- desheim, the best of the kind in Jotunheim (R. 80, B. 70, D. 1- 1 kr. 30, S. 70 0.). The interesting Asemv'r or THE VESLEFJELD, with its spur the BESEGG, is accomplished from Gjendesheim in 7-8 hrs. (guide not absolutely ne— cessary). A good bridle-path leads N. in 1 hr. to the Bessa, on the N. bank of which lie thqBes-Soeters, mentioned at p. 131. We do not cross the river, but follow the path on its 8. bank indicated by Varder (‘stone heaps’) to the height by the Besvand, where the routes divide. The lofty Beshe here becomes conspicuous to the right. Our route ascends to the left and in 11/2-2 hrs. more reaches the barren and stony Veslefjeld (5765 ft.). The view embraces the whole of the dark-green Lake Gjende, with the Koldedalstinder and Stclsnaastinder to the S.W.; most im- posing, however, is the survey of the neighbouring Beshc, while to the N. rises the Nautgardstind. —— We may now proceed towards the W. along the crest of the Veslefjeld, rising between the Besvand and the Gjende, which lies nearly 1000 ft. lower than the Besvand. This crest gradually narrows to the *Besegg, a very curious ridge or aréte, a few feet only in width, descending precipitously to both lakes, particularly to the Gjende. Travellers with steady heads may follow the giddy ‘edge’ for 1/2 hr., or even as far as the Bid separating the two lakes, and not rising much above the level of the Besvand. It is also possible to pro- ceed to the Memurubod (see above) by following the base of the Beshe. It is, however, preferable to return to the Bes-seeters, or to descend direct to Gjendesheim. The ascent of the Beshn (7547 ft.) from Gjendesheim takes 8-9 hrs. (there and back). The route coincides with that above described as far as the Besvand, and then skirts the N. bank of the lake. Guide necessary. From Gjendesheim to Lake Bygdz'n, see p. 128. iv. From the Gjendebod to Rejshjem. 11/2 Day. On the first day we walk to Spiterstul in 8-10 hrs., and on the second to Rajshjem in 5 hrs. —— Guide to Spiterstul 4km, to Rojs- hjem 5 kr. 609.; horse as far as the foot of the steep ascent to the Ule- dalsvand 2 kr. 60 5., whereby the fatigue is much diminished. The very fatiguing but exceedingly grand walk from the Gjen- debod to Spiterstul should not be attempted without a guide. The route ascends the left bank of the Store Aadalselo and passes through the defile of Haistulen, between the Memurutunge and the Gjendetunge. To the right falls the Glimsdalsfos. Splendid view of the Semmeltind to the N. (p. 143). After 1 hr. we reach the Vardesten, a large mass of rock, 1/2 hr. beyond which the bridle-path to the Memurutunge diverges to the right (p. 140). From the left the Skarvedalsbwkken descends from the Skaroedal. We next observe, to the left of the Semmeltind, the Hellerfos (see below), and to the left, above it, the Uladalstinder. Pedestrians Jotunheim. ULADALSBAND. 17. Route. 143 will find the passage of the Semmelaa, which descends from the Semmelhul glacier, unpleasant. (The Semmelhul is also crossed by a route into the Visdal, which is no less rough and fatiguing than the present route.) Our path now ascends rapidly on the E. (right) side of the wild Helterfos, the discharge of the Hel- lerkjaern , and reaches the top of the hill in 1/2 hr. (2 hrs. from the Gjendebod). Beautiful retrospective view of the Sletmarkhe and Svartdalspig; the Knutshultstind, rising more to the E., is concealed by the Memurutunge. The route traverses a curious- looking mountain-waste, bounded by the Uladalstinder. Blocks of rock deposited during the glacier—period are arrayed along the edges of the mountains like soldiers. We now skirt the Helterlcjce'rn (4300 ft.), and then turn to the right into the insignificant valley which leads to the N.W., and afterwards more towards the E., to the Uladalsband. The serious part of the ascent soon begins (21/2 hrs. from the Gjendebod), and riders must dismount. FROM THE HELLERKJamN To run LEIRDAL AND ReJsHJEm, a route 3-4 hrs. longer than our present route, is much less toilsome (guide, unnecessary, to Ytterdalsseeter 5 kr. 60 02; horse to Rejshjem, with side-saddle if required, 8-10 kr.). From the Hellerkjaern the path next reaches the Langvand, or Langvatn (4627 ft.), and skirts its N. bank (for 11/2 hr.). On the right rise the Uladalstinder, to the S. the Smart- dalsegg (6280 ft.). At the W. end of the lake, in which there are several islands, the path ascends past the two Hegoagelkjcerne to the Hegvagel (‘Vagge", a Lapp Word, signifying ‘mountain-valley’; 5430 ft.), the highest point of the route, which commands an imposing survey of the Horunger to the SW. The path then descends to the Leirvand (4903 ft.) and traverses a dreary and monotonous region. Through the Le'irdal to Rejshjem, see p. 1 . ' A steep ascent of 1/2 hr. brings us to the sequestered Uladals- oand (about 5250 ft.), which lies to the left. The route, which is extremely rough and toilsome here, keeps to the right and passes the foot of the slopes of the Semmeltind (Semmel, ‘a female reindeer’). After another hour it reaches the Uladalsband (5730 ft.), its highest point, where it unites with the route across the Semmel Glacier. We now descend to the northern Uladals- oand (5136 ft.), the second lake of the name. To the right rises the Heitstuguhe (7915 ft.), the fourth of the peaks of Jotunheim in point of height. Traversing the exceedingly uncomfortable stony ground on the E. bank of this lake, we at length reach (2 hrs., or from the Gjendebod 6 hrs.) Utadatsmynnet, or the end of the Uladal. Splendid view here of the broad Visdal, with the Heilstuguhe on the right, and the Uladalstinder and Tvaer- bottenhorne on the left. Looking towards the W. from the Visdal itself, we observe the Kirke rising on the left, past which a path leads to the right through the Kirkeglup to the Leirvand (see above). The route through the *Visdal (to the Spiterstul 11/2-2 hrs. more) follows the right bank of‘ the Visa (vie, Celtic uisge, ‘water’), at first traversing soft turf, which forms a most pleasant 144 Route 17. SPITERSTUL. Jotunheim. contrast to the rough and angular stones of the ‘Ur’. After 1 hr. we have to wade through the Heilstuguaa, which descends from the extensive Heilstugubrte. Early in the morning the passage of the stream is easy, but later in the day, when the water is higher, we ascend a little in order to cross by a bridge (whence the Spi— terstul is 1 hr. distant). Shortly before reaching the saater, we observe to the left, through the Bukkehul, the Styggebraz and the Sveilnaasbraz, two glaciers descending from the Galdhepig group, with magnificent ice-falls, that of the latter being the finest. The Spiterstul (about 3710 ft.), the highest saeter in the Vis- dal, commanded by the Skauthe (6676 ft.) on the W., affords tolerable quarters for the night (one broad bed), and is a good starting-point for excursions, but guides are rarely to be found before the reindeer shooting-season in August. If a guide is ob- tainable, the traveller may ascend the Leirhe (7885 ft.), the Heilst'uguhe (p. 143), and the Memurutind (7910 ft.), the last of which commands a most imposing view. The GALDHflPIG (p. 146) may also be ascended more easily and expe- ditiously from the Spiterstul than from Rojshjem. The route (not easily mistaken by experienced mountaineers) crosses the Visa by a bridge l/2 hr. to the S. of the Spiterstul, ascends on the N. side of the Sveil- naasbroe, and traverses the three peaks of the Sveilnaast. Owing to the glacier-crevasses, however, it is not altogether unattended with danger, and should not be attempted without a guide. Instead of returning from the summit to the Spiterstul, the traveller may descend direct to Rojshjem by the Raubergsstul (but not without a guide). Fnom THE SPITERsTUL To Rersnmm, about 5 hrs. (no guide required). We soon reach the zone of birches and (1/2 hr.) a rocky barrier through which the Visa has forced a passage. After another 1/2 hr we come to a pine-wood, with picturesque trees (F'wr'uer) on the N. side, some of which are entirely stripped of their branches. (The limit of pines is here about 3280 ft. above the sea-level.) Above us, to the left, is an ofishoot of the Tvaerbrae. In 1/4 hr. more we cross the Skautaelv, which forms a waterfall above, by a curious bridge. To the S. we perceive the Uladalstinder (p. 142) and the Styggehe (7317 ft.). On the opposite bank of the Visa is the Nedre Suleims-Sceter (3192 ft.), at the mouth of a small valley through which the ori— ginal route to the Galdhepig ascended. Opposite the saeter the Glitra falls into the Visa. From the Spiterstul or the Nedre Suleims-Seeter the ascent of the Glittertind (8383 ft.), a peak nearly as high as the Galdhepig, may be ac- complished in 8-10 hrs. (there and back; guide desirable). The route follows the top of the hill rising between the Glitra and the Skautaelv, and pursues an E. direction. The height first reached is the W. spur of the rocky amphitheatre which encloses the huge basin (Botn) lying to the N. In order to reach the highest point the use of an ice-axe (Isaa'e) is sometimes necessary. ' The Rojshjem route continues to follow the E. bank of the Visa. In case of doubt the direction indicated by the Varder, or stone beacons, is to be followed. We cross the Smiugjeta; the Jottmkeim. SMAADA’L. 1 7 .' Route‘. 1 Grjota, and the Golan. The Visa is lost to view in its deep channel, but we follow the margin of its ravine. An ascent of a few hundred paces to the E. of the path leads to the Visdals- Smtre (2960 ft.), where fair quarters for the night are obtainable (particularly at the Qvrebaswter). The Gokraskard, an excellent point of view which may be ascended hence, commands a survey of the Uladalstinder to the S., the Galdhapig to the S.W. and the Hestbraepigge to the W. —— A still finer point is the Lauvhe (5824 ft.), whence the Glittertind is also visible. > - From_ the Visdal sseters we may also ascend the Gokradal, between the Lauvha on the N. and the Gokkeraxelen on the S., to the pass of the Finhals (3885 ft.). Following the Finhalselv thence and crossing the Smaadalselv in the Smaadal, we may turn to the right to the Smaadals- Swter (3807 ft.), from which the huge Kvits'ngskjerlen (6874 ft.) to the N. may be ascended. The next points reached are the Smerh'dswter and the Naaversceter on Lake Thessen. Thence across the lake and past the Ozcefos to Slot-vile on the Vaagevand, see p. 129. This route commands fine views of the Galdhepig and the Glittertind, but the Smaadal itself is uninteresting. -—- Those who take this route in the reverse direction should observe that, about 1hr. ‘beyond the Smaadals-Seeter, after cross- ing a brook coming from the right, they must cross the Smaadalselv to the left, and on the other side ascend the bank of the Finhalselv to- wards the S.W. Below the Visdal saaters the path is not easily traceable, but the traveller is not likely to go far wrong. The descent to Rejshjem, skirting the profound Ravine of the Visa, presents one of the grandest scenes in Norway. The Lauva descends from the right. The saeter-path, now practicable for light carts, descends very rapidly, commanding a view of the huge abyss. On the opposite side runs the path to the Nedre Sulheims-Saater (p. 144). To the N. lie the gaards of Rejshjem and Sulheim. The first cottages are reached in 1% hr. from the Visdal saeters, and. here we cross the curious bridge to the left. — Rejshjem, see below. 0. Rejshjem and Environs. The Galdhepig. Rejshjem or Redsheim (1860 ft. ; *Inn kept by Ole Halvorswn Rejshjem, probably the best guide in Norway, a man of unassum- ing manners, but a good English scholar, and remarkably well-in— formed on every subject in which travellers are interested) lies at the junction of the Leirdal (p. 148) and the Visdal (see above), the two valleys enclosing the Galdhepig, and the best starting-point» ‘for the ascent of that mountain and several other fine excursions. The place is therefore often crowded in summer, especially with Norwegian students and pedestrians. The AscnN'r or THE GALDHBPIG may be accomplished from Rejshjem in 8-9 hrs. (there and back, 14-16 hrs.). The expedition is unattended with difficulty, but the walk is very long and fati— guing, and the ground so stony, rough, and slippery at places that considerable caution must be used. Violent snow-storms fre— quently prevail on the summit while the weather isiflne at the base of the mountain; but such precautions are usually taken that no danger need be apprehended, especially in ‘Pi-gveif-(i. e. ' Bannnxnn's Norway and Sweden. 2nd Edit. 10 146- Route 17. GALDHQPIG. Jotunheim. ‘weather suitable for the peak’). Ole Rojshjem rarely now accom- panies travellers to the summit. The usual guides are Peder Ing- bretsen and Knud Olsen Vole (4 kr.). Alpenstocks, the property of the Turisten-Ferening, are provided by Ole Rojshjem. Provisions should also be taken. The traveller may ascend on the previous evening to the (2 hrs.) Redbergs-Sarter, or Raubergsstul (erected in 1616; beds, coffee, dried meat, etc.), and spend the night there, so as to diminish the fatigue of the actual ascent. Or he may drive early in the morning from Rejshjem to Bceoerdals K irke, and use the same horse-for riding thence to Redbergs-Saeter and as far as the glacier, which is only 2 hrs. from the top. -— The writer was unable to get a horse, as Ole and his horses had crossed the Sognefjeld with a party of Eng- lish travellers, and the other horses were engaged in the harvest. The start from Rejshjem was therefore made on foot at 5 a.m. ; fol- lowing the road for 1/2 hr., we passed the cottage of the guide Peder Ingbretsen at Mongjz'et .Gdegaard, and in 1% hr. more stopped at the Redberg's-Swter. Starting thence at 7.45, we reached the barren and stony summit of the Galdeshei (5240 ft.), to the S.W. of the saster, in 1 hr., whence a view of the Gokkerdal and the Gokker- axelen is obtained to the E. (The bridle-path, however, rounds this hill on the S. side.) About 10 we reached the Tverbraz and the Djuo- vand, a small glacier-lake, above which rise the amphitheatrical cliffs of K jedelen (7300 ft.). We now for the first time obtained a view of the summit of the Galdhepig and the Soeilnaasi, its dark rocky spur, with the Keilhaustop and Sceilnaaspig, all rising like dark waves above the vast expanse of the snowy Styggebrae. Gross- ing a field of snow and a stony tract, we reached the Varde (6365 ft.) on the Styggebraa at 11.30, rested for half-an-hour, and took 1hr. more to cross the glacier with its numerous crevasses. The worst part of the route now began. The route traversed loose stones and skirted a deep yawning abyss on the right and the Styggebree with its wide crevasses on the left; it then followed a snowy aréte, the slipperiness of which made the precipices on each side appear doubly formidable. About 2 o’clock (9 hrs. from Rejshjem, 7 hrs. from the Redbergs-Saeter) we reached the summit, marked by a- lofty stone Varde which afiords some shelter. The **Ga.ldh§pig, or Galdhatind (8400 ft.), is the highest summit of the Ymesfjeld, a peculiar mountain-plateau, which is surrounded by the valleys of the Leira, Visa, and Beevra, and connected with the other mountain-groups of Jotunheim by the Hegoaget (p. 143) only. The slopes of the Ymesfjeld on every side are steep. Besides the Galdhepig, there are'few summits rising above the general, level of its snow and glacier-clad sur- face. (The Galdhepig, the top of which is almost always kept clear of, snow by storms, is the loftiest mountain in Norway Mont Blanc 15,784 ft., Monte Rosa 15,217 ft., the Ortler 12,81 ft.). Jotunheim. LOMSEGG. 17. Route. 147 The view from the summit is unobstructed in every direction. It embraces the almost equally lofty Glittertind (p. 144) and the Rondane to the E.; the whole of the Jotunfjeld to the S.; the Horunger, the Smorstabstinder, the Sognefjord, the Jostedalsbrae, and the Nordfjord mountain-chain to the W., and the Snehtettan group to the N. Most of these summits, especially the-nearer ones, arepointed and pyramidal in shape, like the Swiss peaks, and do not present the usual flattened appearance of the Norwegian moun- tains. The scene somewhat resembles a vast ocean furrowed with enormous billows, or an Arctic landscape. No occupied valleys are visible. The distant dark blue water of the Sognefjord alone recalls the existence of the nether inhabited world. The descent is made by the same route to the Redbergs-Szeter in 4 hrs., and to Rejshjem in 11/2 hr. more. Experienced mountaineers may proceed direct from the summit of the Galdhepig across the Styggebrw or to Kez'lhaus Top and Svez'lnaaspz'g, and descend by the Sveilnaasbroe to the Spiterstul (p. 144) in the Visdal and thence proceed to Lake Gjende. The route, however, requires the utmost caution, all these ‘Pigge” being covered with glacier-ice fissured with crevasses (Sproecker). Hr. E. Mohn, a well-known explorer of the Jotunheim Mts., fell into a crevasse about 400 ft. below the summit of the Galdhopig on 27th July, 1877, and narrowly escaped with his life. Rejshjem is also the best starting-point for the ascent of the Lomsegg (6885 ft.), the summit of which is reached via Gaarden Sulhez'm in 5-6 hours. It commands an imposing view of the Glitter- tind and Galdhepig, and of the Smerstabbraepigge and Fanaraak to the W., which, however, seem a long way off. The best survey of the whole chain is obtained from the Hest-. brmpiggene (6095 ft.), which may be described as the ‘Faulhorn’ of Jotunheim. Riding is practicable for part of the way. The two peaks of that name rise on the other side of the valley, to the N.W. A very interesting *Walk of 1-2 hrs. may be taken from Rejs- hjem to Glaamstad, on the right bank of the Baavra, situated ob- liquely above Gaard Sulheim. We follow the Lom road (p. 129) and (10 min.) cross the Bzevra. A rocky *Hitt here commands a fine view of Rejshjem and the Galdhoer. A pleasant meadow-path then leads to the left through a plantation of elders to (20 min.) the right side of the valley and to Glaamstad, a group of farms by the side of which the Gtaama descends in four falls. We may then ascend by the broad track on the left bank of the Glaama- in 20 min. more to Gaarden Engeim on the hill above. Close to Rejshjem, by the upper bridge across the Baevra, are numerous *Jazttegryder, or water-worn ‘ giant cauldrons’, the largest of which, of an irregular oval shape, is about 10 ft. in die- mater. The stones they contain have been lodged there by inun— dations subsequent to the period when the bellows were formed. From Rejshjem through the Visdal or the Let'rdal to Lake Gjende, see pp. 145-142... _ . . 10* 148 Route 17. > BIEVERDAL. Jotunheim. f. From Rajshjem over the Sognefjeld to Fortun. 11/2 Day (about '70 Kil.; guide and horse 16 kr.). Walkers should pass the night at the (6 hrs.) Bsevertun-Saeter and proceed next day to (12 hrs.) Fortun. The first 3 Engl. M. are practicablefor driving, but the rest of the way is only a bridle-path. Rejshjem, see p. 145. Our route leads to (3/4 hr.) Baeverdals Kirke, where the pastor of Lom (p. 129) performs divine service once monthly. On the opposite side of the valley is Bakkeberg, with large farm-buildings amid smiling corn-fields. The road ascends steeply through the grand gorge of *Rusten (‘wooded hill’) or Gaden, with its overhanging rocks, below one of which are the remains of a smithy. Above lies a gaard. Farther on, 1/2 hr. from the church, we come to a moor, once the bed of a lake, where the road terminates. BRIDLE-PATH To Forums. The path which we now follow soon divides. The route formerly most frequented follows the course of the Basra, passing the Rusten, Netto, and Preste saeters (good- accommodation), to the Hfiidals'va'nd, whence the stream issues in the form of a fine waterfall called the Heifos. The other and pre- ferable route soon quits the Baeverdal and ascends the lower Leirdal. We avoid the first bridge to the right, and cross the Leira by the second bridge, following the left bank of the stream, and passing Storlien. To the right are the huge slopes of the Store Juvb'rte and the Store Grovbrw. Farther on we observe a grand Gorge, through which, however, our route does not lead. On the left descends the Ilfos, and facing us is the vast Loftet (p. 158), with its extensive glaciers; nearer, on the left, is the Dumhe with the lofty fall of the D-uma, below which lie the Ytterdals-Swtre. — The path next ascends the Bteverkjtern-Hals. (3515 ft.; ‘Hals’, as in Icelandic, ‘a pass’) and quits the Leir- dal. The Gjende Route turns to the left here, crosses the stream, and leads past the Ytterdats-Saztre to the Leir'vand (see pp. 157, 158). The SOGNEFJELD ROUTE leads to the N.W. across the ‘Hals’,. and soon quits the region of birches. At the Varde it turns to the right, and next reaches the Btr'verkjtern-Swter (remarkably clean), below which, to the left, are several tarns (Kjtern or Tjarn). Farther on we observe the Heivand with the Hoifos, which the above—mentioned path leading through the Baeverdal passes, and. descend to the Bazoerkjwrn, which with its numerous promontories and islands resembles a miniature fjord. We cross the stream flowing out of this lake by a dilapidated bridge, and follow the N. bank of thelake with its milky-looking water, which reflects the Loftet and is fed by several lofty waterfalls. On the S. bank, near'the W. end, lies the'Rustesazte'r (not to be confounded with. that above mentioned). To the W.~ of the Bteverkjtern is the con-7 tiguous Bazvertunvand, which the path skirts, often at a dizzy height above it. To the W. of this lake rises the Sognefjeld. The Jotunheim. BZEVE'RTUNSZETER. 17. Route. 149 whole scene here is one of striking grandeur. At the W. end of the Baevertunvand we at length reach the —— ‘ Bsevertunsmter (3075 ft. ;_6 hrs. from Rejshjem; one room with two beds, in which four persons can sleep if necessary, 40 0. each; Alpine fare, for which payment may be made accord- ing to discretion). To this establishment belong ‘24 cows with their calves, 200 sheep, and 11 pigs. The sheep wander over the mountains in summer without shepherds (Vogter), but the cows, summoned by the cattle-calls already'mentioned, come down to the saeter in the evening. The pigs generally remain near the building. As in the Alpine chalets, the milk is manufactured here into cheese and butter. The whey (Mysa) is carried down to the valley in drum-shaped Myseflaslccr (called Primstrumpcr in the Hardanger), slung over the backs of horses. The cords used here are made of twisted willows, and the horses are tethered in an ingenious manner. The sledges and carts are made of wood, frequently without the aid of a particle of iron. The girls will sometimes sing their untutored but not unmelodious songs by the fireside of an evening, a performance for which of course no payment is expected or ought to be offered. ~— As the next human habitations, the Turtegred and Gjessingen saeters (p. 150), are 7-9 hrs. walk from the Baevertun 8331361‘, an early start should be made. The route leads for 13/4 hr. through the somewhat monotonous valley of the Baevra, until it reaches the Nupshaug, a curious rocky knoll in the middle of the valley. Adjoining it is a fall of the Baevra; to the left are two other waterfalls, all of which unite here. We now ascend to a higher region of the valley and obtain a view of the enormous *Smerstabbraa, one of the most extensive gla- ciers in Norway, a perfect sea of snow and ice, overtopped by the Smerstabspiggene (7515 ft.), the ascent of which may be made from the Baevertunsaeter (10-12 hrs., there and back) without ma- terial difficulty. The services of a good guide should, however, be secured. The Bzevra issues from the glacier, at the end of which there is a magnificent ice-cavern (digression of 1/2 hr.). —- In 3/4 hr. more we come to a stone Vardc surmounted by a wooden figure, bearing the inscription: -- . ‘Veer rask som en Love, 0g skynd dig som en Hind! See Veiret det gryneri Fanaraak Tind !’ _ ‘Be quick as a. lion, haste thee like a hind; see how the storms lower over the Fanaraak Peak !’ In 1/2 hr. we now reach the actual Fjeld, and in 1/4 hr. more the Fantestencnc, where a tramp (Fant) is said to have been shot ‘more than a century ago’ (the date usually assigned in Norway to remote events). Adjacent is a small lake with patches of snow. Grand view hence of the Smerstabbrw, and of the Fanaraak, farther to thevW., from which other glaciers descend. -— We soon reach the highest point of an extensive mountain-tract, and-‘cross the boundary of BergensQStift (4630 ft.). To the left we 150 Route 17. OSGARSHOUG. Jotunheim. observe the Rauskjeldoand, and afterwards the Prestesteinoand, into which the Fanaraakbrw immediately descends. Several hours are next spent in passing this almost contiguous series of lakes and glaciers. The route is marked at frequent intervals by means of Varder, so that an observant and experienced traveller may al- most dispense with a guide. Should fog set in, one Varde should not be quitted until another is descried. Failure to observe this precaution might easily cost the Wayfarer his life. At a curious looking Varde called the ‘Kammerherre’, consist- ing of a tall mass of rock with a pointed stone on the top, it is usual to rest. The route soon descends steeply.to the Herrevand, the stream flowing out of which we cross by the Hervasbrui (Brui, bridge), about 5 hrs. from the Baeverturnsaeter, and halfway to For- tun. The route next rounds the projecting buttress of the Fana- raak (7460 ft.), and passes the Galjeberg'vand , and afterwards the Dju'v-vand, fed by the glacier stream Djuvoandsaa. On our left now rises the W. side of the Fanaraak, and we soon survey the whole range of the Hom'mge'r (p. 159) rising beyond the deep Helgedal, the best point of view being the *Oscarshoug (3730 ft.). a slight eminence to the left of the path. The Horunger embrace three groups, the first consisting of the Styggedalstinder and Skagastels- tinder; the Dyrhaugstinder form the second, and the Riingstind, Soleitind, and Austabottind the third. From the Oscarshoug, which has been termed with some exaggeration the ‘Wengernalp’ of Norway, part of the dark green Sognefjord is visible near Skjolden. The route now descends rapidly. The first szeter is that of Tur- tegred (2780 ft.), to reach which we diverge to the right. This szeter affords Alpine fare, but is not recommended as quarters for the night, though it is preferable to Gjessingen, which lies a little‘- below it. It is occupied in summer by a family with numerous children, and is far from clean. The hill of Klypenaasi (p. 159), above Gjessingen, also affords a good view of the Horunger. The ascent of the Fanaraak, which is free from difficulty, may be made through the Steindal from Gjessingen or from the Helgedal-Saater (p. 153), in- the Helgedal, 40 min. farther to the E. (8-10 hrs., there and back). From Turtegred or Gjessingen to Fortun, through the Ova- bergsdal is a walk of about 2 hrs. more (ascent 3-4 hrs.). The path is good, but extremely steep, and unpleasant for riding. The river forms a series of remarkably fine falls, the chief of which are the Simogalfos, near Gjessingen, and the Dokkafos, at the gaard of that name. Below us lies a picturesque smiling land- scape, while behind us towers the majestic Fanaraak, presenting a very striking contrast. About 1/2 hr. beyond Gjessingen. the ,Riingsbotn opens on the left, with the Riingstind and the Riingsbrae. Farther on is‘a bridge leading to the Skagastele (p. 159). We then pass the pleasant gaards of Aa-Swter (on the left bank), Optun (1350 ft.), Savde (on the right bank), and Berge (1085 ft. ;' on the left bank), situated amidst corn-fields and orchards. A few paces Jotunheim. MELKEDA'L. 17. Route. " 151 beyond Berge we suddenly obtain a survey of the beautiful Fortun- dal, lying about 900 ft. below us. The path now-descends the Fort'wngatde'r in zigzags to the hamlet of (1/2 hr.) -— Fortun, see p. 159. From Fortun to (6 Kil.) Skjolden, on the Sognefjord, see p. 158. g. From Eidsbugarden through the Melkedal to Skogadals- ’ been, and across the Keiser to Fortun. 2 Days. The first night of this magnificent mountain--walk is spent at Skogadalsbeen, which lies almost equally distant (3-10 hrs.) from Eids- bugarden and Fortun. The traveller is recommended to take a guide for the whole way; to Skogadalsbeen 4 kr., to Berge (‘/2 hr. from Fortun) 8 kr. 40 5., to the Vettisfos (p. 99) 7 kr. ’ The guides of Eidsbugarden, Vetti, etc., are usually not well ac— quainted with the Horunger, so that the traveller who intends to make excursions among these mountains should dismiss his guide at the Helge- dals-Saeter and choose a new one at Fortun or Berge (comp. p. 159). Eidsb'ugarden, see p. 138. We row across the lake to the mouth of the — *Melkedal, watered by the boisterous Metkedela, across which there are no bridges. The route gradually ascends the valley, which after 3/4 hr. divides. The branch to the left ascends to the Langeskavl and the Uranaastind (p. 138), while that to the'right is still called the Melkedal. Steep ascent through the latter, pass- ing several waterfalls. As is so frequently the case in Norway, the valley neither posseses a level floor nor expands into basins, but consists of a chaos of heights and hollows, where the rock, polished smooth by glacier-friction, is exposed at places, and at others is covered with loose boulders. Vegetation ceases, and no trace of animal life is visible, save the deep ‘kuraak’, or cattle- tracks, in the snow. At places, however, the ground is thickly strewn with the droppings of the Lemming (or Lemazn; Lemus Nor- oegicus, one of the rodentia, and not unlike a rat), a hardy and intrepid little animal which frequently swims across Lakes Bygdin and Gjende. The reindeer often kills the lemming with a stroke of its hoof and eats the stomach for the sake of its vegetable contents. About 20 min. above the point where the valley divides we ascend a steep field of snow to the plateau of Metlcehulleme, where there are several ponds. In 20 min. more (about 11/2 hr. from Eidsbugarden) we reach the “Store Melkedalsvand, in a strikingly grand situation, the finest point on the route, and well worthy of a visit for its own sake from Eidsbugarden (best time in the fore- noon, 4-5 hrs. there and back). Even in July miniature icebergs are seen floating in the lake, and during the night a crust of fresh ice is sometimes formed. To the left rises the Langeskavl; then the Uranaastind. On this side of the latter is the Redberg. Next, the ‘Melkedalsbrae, descending to the lake , and the Melke- dalstinder, all reflected in the dark-blue water- 11152 Route 17. SKOGADAL. Jotunheim. A walk of another hour over ‘Ur’ and patches of snow brings us to an ice-pond at the foot of the first Melkedalstind, whence we ascend a steep slope of snow in 20 min. more to the Melkedals- band, the watershed. To the W. a view is obtained of the Second Melkedalsvand , a much larger lake than the first, and generally covered with winter-ice down to the month of July. To the left rise the first and to the right the second Melkedatstind (7107 ft.), and to the N.W. the Rauddalstind (7410 ft.). The scenery continues to be very imposing. The route skirts the N. side of the second Melkedalsvand and (1/2 hr.) crosses the stream. Very rough walking. A view of the Horunger is now disclosed (p. 159); on the right rises the Skogadalsnaasi; on the left is the arm of the Melkedalsbrae mentioned at p. 138, with its large moraines, descending from the Uranaastind. The striation of the rocks by glacier-action (Skurings-Striber) is frequently observable. The boisterous torrent is again crossed by a snow-bridge, the remains of an avalanche (caution necessary), or the traveller may wade through it a little lower down, where the water is knee-deep. The Melkedal now ends in a precipitous Bazlte (‘girdle’), over which the river is precipitated in a fall of about 590 ft. in height. To this point also descends the W. arm of the Melkedalsbrae, by which the descent hither from the Uranaastind may be made (see _ above). The lower region of the valley which we now enter is the *Skogadal, which expands into a broad basin. Above it tower the majestic Horunger (p. 159), consisting of the Skagastelstinder and the Styggedalstind. The appearance of the M aradatsbrce descending from the Skagastelstind is particularly striking. —- The Skogadal -is at first a little monotonous, but with the increasing warmth of the temperature the vegetation improves, and the scanty ‘Rab’ _ or scrub is soon exchanged for a fine growth of birches (whence the name, ‘forest valley’). There is no defined path at first, but the route follows the N. side of the Skogadalselv and afterwards the track made by the cattle (Ku-raak). A walk of 2 hrs. from the ‘Baelte’ brings us to the saeters of — Skogadalsbeen in the Utladal, see p. 156. The rest of the tour may be accomplished without the guide, through it is advisable to retain his services as far as the Keiser Pass, especially if it is still covered with snow. The track is practicable for riding for .2-3 hrs. beyond this point, but horses can seldom be obtained here. Ascending from Skogadalsbeen for 25 min., we reach a new bridge on the left and cross it. The path to the right leads to the'(25 min.) Guridals-Saiter, while we follow the good sseter- track to the W., on the N. bank of the Gjertvaselv or St-ygge- dalselo, a stream descending from the Gjertvasbra (at the base of the Styggedalstind) and the Keiser. The retrospect becomes grander and more open as we advance: To the left is the Smei‘stabbraa and the church at' the'end' of theStore Utladal, to. Jo-tunheim. KEISER PASS. 17. Route. 153 the right of which are the Rauddalstinder; in front of us is the Skogadalsnaase; more to the right the Melkedalstind, the Uran- aastind, and, to the extreme right, the Falketind. After 40 min. a small waterfall is passed.‘ To the left extends the large Gjertvasbrte, at the base of the Styggedatstind (7710 ft.), the ascent of which is impracticable from this side. We do not, however, arrive fairly opposite the glacier for another 1/2 hr. ' The path, which now becomes easier, next leads to the (1/4 hr.) Gjertvand, skirts the left bank of this lake, and then ascends steeply, over debris and snow, to the Kaiser Pass (4920 ft.), be- tween the Styggedalsnaase on the left and the Ilvasnaase to the right. To the left lies the Ilvand. To the S.E., above the snow— fields of the Styggedalstind rises the Koldedalstind, to the N. the Fanaraak, to the W. the huge Jostedalsbrae and the mountains bordering the Lysterfjord. The path now leads along the top of the hill, passing the pond of Skauta and (1/4 hr.) a large block of white quartz (to the left). The Hommger, especially the moun- tains round the Styggedalsbotn,‘ now become conspicuous to the left. After 20 min. we cross the Helgedalselv, which flows towards the W. and is sometimes scarcely fordable, and after 10 min. more reach a barren rocky summit, commanding a beautiful view of the huge amphitheatre of snow-fields and glaciers surrounding the *Styggedalsbotn, above which towers the Styggedalstind with the Styggedalsbme. This view is almost unsurpassed in Jotunheim for wildness and grandeur. vSoon after we pass a small waterfall formed by the Helgedalselv. After 25 min. we see to the left the outflow of the Styggedal glacier, and to the right the Steindalselo descending from the Fanaraak. In front of us extends the wide Helgedal, to which the path now rapidly descends. We next pass, on the left, the fine (1/4 hr.) Skautefos, at the confluence of the Helgedalselv and the Styggedalselv. The path then crosses the Steindalsel'v, which usually offers no difficulty, and leads through the wide valley to the (40 min.) Helgedals-Soeter (rather dirty). To the E. is the Fanaraak (p. 150), to the S. the Styggedalsbotn, both of which may be visited from this point. After 20 min.-we cross the ‘Baelte’ (belt) through which the stream has forced its way, and enter a new zone of the valley, containing the saeters of Turtegrod and Gjessingen (p. 150) to the right, and Skagastel and Riinggadn (p. 159) to the left. To the left we obtain an unimpeded view of the Skagastalsbotn (p. 159). The Oscarhoug 150) is seen to the right (1/2 hr.). The path from Bwvert'un (p. 149) now unites with ours. Hence to Fortun, see p. 150. ‘ .154 Route 17. FLESKEDAL. Jotunheim. h. From the Vettisfos to Tvindehoug and Eidsbugarden. 8-10 hrs. A grand expedition (guide desirable, 51/2 kr.). ~In the re- verse direction a saving is effected by rowing across Lake Tyin (with one rower, for 1, 2, 3 persons, 800., 1 kr., or 1 kr. 20 on). In this case a guide should be taken as far as Smaaget. (More fatiguing than the route described below, and not free from risk, is that through the Morka-Koldedal, whence the Koldedflla forming. the Vettisfos descends. See Map, p. 130). Gaarden Vctti and the Vettisfos, see p. 99. We ascend the Vettisgalder towards the N.E., and in 1/2 hr. reach a shelf com- manding a view of the Utladal to the N., with the Mamdalsfos on the left. In another 1/2 hr. we reach the top of the hill, with a few sickly pines and numerous trees overthrown by the wind. To the right rises the Stelsnaustind. We then descend to the left, over marshy ground, to (5 min.) a bridge across the Mor- ltaelo and then. to (5 min.) a point commanding a view of the Vettisfos from above. Near the fall is a wood-slide, by which timber is precipitated into the gorge in winter, to be swept down- wards by the floods of spring. We next ascend the left bank of the Morkaelv (higher up called the Koldedela) towards the E., and in ‘20 min. reach the —~ Vettismorka-Smter (2190 ft.), which is occupied in September only. To the W., at the head of the Stclmaradal, rises the Riings- tind with the Riingsbras; farther down, the Maradalsfos; to the right, the Maradalsnaase. The view of the Horunger increases in. grandeur. - Those who wish to ascend the highest of the Stzlsnaastinder (6690 ft.) diverge here, reach the top in 2‘/2—3 hrs., and descend in 2 hrs. to ‘the Fleskedals—Sseter, where the night is usually spent. The summit com- mands a superb view of the Horunger, the three Maradale, and the pro- found Utladal. Anfind Vetti should be engaged as guide for this ascent. Our route now leads ‘through pines and birches to the (1/2 hr.) bridge over the Fleskedalselv, and then ascends rapidly to the (1/2 hr.) top of the ‘Naes’, projecting from the Stelsnaastind. Magni~ flcent view of the Skagastelstinder, rising above the Midtmaradal. We then ‘descend slightly to the 1/4 hr.) four —— ' Fleskedal Sectors, one of which, belonging to Anflnd Vetti, affords clean quarters. These szeters (here called Sal) accommodate in summer about 40 cows and ‘200 goats, which descend to the Vettismorka-Saeter in the middle of September and to the valley at the end of the same‘month. -— Route to Skogadalsbeen, see below. ’ Beyond the Fleskedals-Saeter the route follows the Fleskedals- do, first on the left (8.), then on the right bank. Striking retrospective view of the Horunger, and particularly of the Riings- bras. To the N. we first observe the Frike'n (4656 ft.), the top of which may be reached on horseback from the saeter (fine view of the Horunger), and afterwards the precipices of the ‘Naas’ which separates the Fleskedal from the Uradal. (The latter, one of the most sequestered valleys in Jotunheim, is almost unknown; at the Jotunheim. UTLADAL. 17. Route. 155 E. end of it rises the Uranaastind, p. 138; and at the W. end it debouches on the Utladal, about 1/2 hr. to the S. of Skogadals- been.) Our route through the Fleskedal gradually ascends to the defile’of Smaaget, which it reaches in 21/2 hrs. after leaving the swter. The scenery is somewhat monotonous. At first the Stels- naastinder, with a large glacier, rise to the right; afterwards we have the Koldedalstind on the right and the Fleskedalstind on the left. The path then descends steeply to the Upper Kotdedatsvand or Uradatsmulen, and leads to the S., following the Kotdedela, to the Lower Kotdedats'oand. We cross the Uradalselv at the upper end of this lake, and then walk along the E. bank of the lake and the stream to the upper end of Lake Tyin, crossing the marshy ground by means of stepping-stones. We then proceed either to the S. to Tvindehoug, or across the Eid to Eidsbugarden (p. 139). ' i. From the Vettisfos to Rejshjem through the Utladal, the Gravdal, and the Leirdal. 21/2 Days: —— 1st. From Gaarden Vetti to Skogadalsberen, 6-7 hrs.=, or as far as the Gm'z'dals-Scetre 3/4 hr. farther (or to Muran, 11/2 hr. from Skogadalsbeen, at which last place enquiry should be made Whether the Muran seeter is tenanted). Those who arrive at Skogadalsbeen early enough, and intend passing the night there, may ascend’the Skogadalsnaasi in the evening. - 2nd. From Skogadalsbeen to the Ytterdals Seetre, 10- 11 hrs.; to shorten which the previous night should be spent if possible at Muran; if necessary, the night may be spent in the refuge-hut on the Leirvand. -— 3rd. To Rejshjem, 4-5 hrs. Gaarden Vetti and the Vettisfos, see p. 99 ; thence to the Fteske- dals-Sozters, 3-31/2 hrs., p. 154. -— The present route ascends the Friken (p. 154), which is covered with vegetation, following the direction of the ‘Varder’, and after 3/4 hr. descends again for some . distance. It then skirts the slope of the mountains, passing through underwood or over stones and snow high above the Utladal, the bottom of which is seldom visible. As we proceed we enjoy an unimpeded *View of the needle-like pinnacles of the Horunger, soaring above the white snow-fields on their flanks: to the left, the Skagastetstinder (7900 ft.) rising above the Midtmaradal, then the Styggedalstind, the E. buttress of the group, descending into the Trearnaradat, with the extensive Maradatsbraz (p. 152). To the S., beyond the end of the Utladal, we see the Blejan and the Fresvikbrae (p. 105); to the S.E., the Stelsnaastind; to the E. the sharp pyramid of the Uranaastind; to the N. the summits inclos- ing the Skogadal and Utladal, and in the distance a range of snow- clad mountains, probably those between the valley of the Otta and that of the Baevra in the Gudbrandsdal. In 3/4 hr. we see below us, to the left, the Vormelid Sorter. ' (p. 156), which cannot be reached from this side. In front of uslie Skogadalsbeen and the Guridals-Saeters (see below). The path then descends rapidly through fatiguing underwood ( Vir) and in 3/4 hr. reaches a small birch-wood. In 10 min. more the Uradat 154) 156 Route 17. sKoGADALsBeEN. Jotunheim. opens to the right, with an immense tract of ‘Ur’, fallen from the ‘precipitous slopes on the S. We then cross the Uradalselv by a small bridge (Klop). The mountain peaks are now concealed from view by the numerous precipitous ‘noses’ running out from the main ridges. We then follow a cattle-track (Kuraak) leading through a sparse birch-wood at the foot of the Urabjerg, cross the Skogadalselv by a bridge, and in 1/2 hr. reach the saeters of —- Skogadalsbeen (2914 ft.), at the entrance to the Skogadal. (Tolerable food at the lower saeter, sometimes including ‘Spege- kjed’; one broad bed with a heavy fur coverlet.) These saeters are among the few in the Utladal which are always inhabited in summer (usually from 24th June till the beginning of September). The Utladal szeters are built of stone and consist of an ante-room, an inner room, and a dairy. The smoke escapes by the ‘Ljor’ or hole in the roof. The cattle come from the Lysterfjord (a branch of the Sognefjord, p. 99), and have therefore to be driven across the snow-clad Keiser Pass (p. 103). From Skogadalsbflen we may scale the Skogadalsnaasi (6080 ft.) with- out a guide (3-4 hrs. there and back) by ascending the 'valley to the ('/2 hr.) Lusahougene (see below) and then climbing to the right. The direct ascent from the saeters is very steep. Grand mountain-view. To the W. the Horunger (but only the Maradalstinder, Austabottinder, and Styggedalstinder) and the Fanaraak; to the N. the Hestbraepigge and Smflrstabstinder; more to the E. the Tvserbottenhorne, Heilstuguha, Kirke, Uladalstinder, Rauddalstinder, and Sletmarkhe; then the Melkedalstinder, and to the S. the Uranaasi and St-fllsnaastinder. The ASCENT OF THE STYGGEDALSTIND, the easternmost peak of the Horunger, should only be undertaken by experienced mountaineers (8-10 hrs., there and back). The route crosses the Utla-bridge (2790 ft.), turns to the'S., and crosses the Gjertvasel'v, which descends from the Keiser 153), on the S. bank of which is the deserted Gjertvasbeen szeter 50ft.). The ascent of the Gjertvasnaast' now begins. In 1-11/2 hr. we _ reach the first plateau (4267 ft.), and in 3 hrs. more the Gjertvastop (4687 ft.). About 490'ft. higher the base of the peak itself is reached, whence we ascend a slope of snow, then over rock with patches of snow, and lastly over the broad crest to the summit of the “Styggedalstind (7710 ft.). On the W. side is a sheer precipice about 1300 ft. in height. -If stones are thrown down into the abyss, their reverberation takes several seconds to reach the ear. At a giddy depth below are the Gjert- vasbrse on the N. and the Maradalsbrae on the S. The smter-path to the S. of Gjertvasbeen, mentioned above, crosses "the Klcvbaklz'er, following the Utla, and leads up and down hill, past the Skogadalsfos (on the left) and the Uo'adalsfos, to the chalets of Vor- melz'd, or Utladalshullet (a pleasant walk of 11/2 hr.). From this most sequestered spot the SkagastPJlst-ind was ascended for the first time (p.99). _ From Skogadalsbgen across the Keiser to Fortun (8-10 hrs.), see pp. 152, 153; through the Melkedal to Eidsbugarden (8-10 hrs.), see pp. 154, 155. For the continuation of the journey through the Utladal *a horse may generally be obtained at Skogadalsbeen to carry the traveller to a point beyond‘Muran (1 kr., but no saddles). We pass a bridge, crossed by the path leading to the Keiser (p. 153) and to the three Guridals-Sa'tre, where the night may be spent. .Our route follows the E. bank of the Utla, passes the debris of the Lusahougene, and (3/4 hr.) reaches the confluence of the Store Jotunheim. LEIRVAND. 17 . Route. 1'57 and Vetle Utla. The latter descends from the Vetle (‘little’) Utla- dal, and is precipitated in several falls over the ‘Baelte’ or rocky barrier of Tunghoug. To the right rises the Hillerhm' (5250 ft.), and to the left the Kongsdalsnaasi. The Store Utla, along which- the steep path ascends, has forced its passage through the ‘Baalte’ and dashes through its channel far below. Fine retrospective view of the Styggedalstind with the extensive Gjertvasbrae. Through the VETLE UTLADAL a little frequented path leads between the Fanaraak group on the left and the Smerstabbra? on the right to the important mountain-route across the Sognefjeld between the Bsevertun- Saeter and Fortun (see pp. 148-151). We next reach a higher region of the Utladal and (about 11/2 hr. from Skogadalsboen) the Muran Saater (3327 ft.), on the op- posite (right) bank of the river. (Tolerable accommodation. Those who purpose passing the night here should enquire at Skogadals- been if the saeter is inhabited.) Grand view of the Styggedalstind to the W., the Kirke to the N., and the Rauddalstind to the E. of this point. Those who require a horse here should attract the at- tention of the people at the szeter by shouting, unless they prefer wading through the icy stream, which, however, at an early hour is usually shallow. (The route through the Rauddal to the Gjende- bod follows the left bank of the Utla; see p. 141 _ Having crossed the stream at Muran, We now follow its right bank, at first passing the base of the Hillerhei. On the S. side we observe the Skogadalsnaasi, the second Mellcedalstind, and then a large Waterfall descending from the Rauddalsmund, ad- joining which rise the Rauddalstinder. The valley is broad, and partly overgrown with scrub. Nearly opposite the Rauddal is the stone but of Stor Halleren, used by reindeer-stalkers. An im- pressive view of the Horunger, which close the Store Utladal to the S.W., accompanies us as we ascend. The valley now takes the name of Gravdal. Vegetation gradually ceases. We now have to wade through the Sandelv, descending on the left from the Skjortningsbraa, an offshoot of the immense Smarstabbrae. The crossing is best effected near the Utla. Above the glacier towers the curiously shaped, *Smerstabstind (7515 ft. ; Stab, ‘block’; the same word as in Stabbur). - As the path ascends the flora assumes a more and more Alpine character (Bartsia alpina, Pedicularis lapponica, Veronica alpina, Saxifraga czespitosa, Viscaria alpina, Gentiana nivalis, Pulsatilla vernalis, Ranunculus glacialis, the last of which is known as the Rensblomme). Having reached a height of 4925 ft., we at length come to thestone Refuge Hut on the Leirvand (4903 ft.), 5-6 hrs. from Skogadalsbeen. The hut contains a table, two benches, some firewood, and a few cooking utensils. Four routes converge here: that by which we have ascended through the Gravdal, another from - the Gjendebod and the Hag'vagel (p. 143), a third from Rejshjem through the Visdal, and the fourth from Rajshjem through theLeirdal _ 158. Route 17. YTTERDALS S/ETRE. Jotunheim. The route through the Visdal goes round the N. side of the ‘Leir- vand and ascends through the Kirkeglup, between the quaint-looking Kit-Ice (7073 ft.; difficult to ascend) on the right and the Tvazrbottenhorne (7220 ft.) on the left, to the Kirkenkjwrne, a series of tarns. Passing these it then descends into the Upper Visdal. On the right tower the vast Uladalstinder with their extensive glaciers. The route, which cannot be mistaken, afterwards unites with that coming over the Uladalsvand from Lake Gjende, from the S. (see p. 1115). In descending the Leirdal, we skirt the imposing Ymesfjeld for a considerable distance, but the curious-looking Skarstind (6576 ft.) is the only one of its peaks visible. To the left are the grand glacier tongues of the Smerstabbrcr and several of the Smar- stabstinder. Lastly we obtain a view of the Loftet (7317 ft.), which is most conveniently ascended from the Baoerkjaz'rn- Saatcr on the Leiraas. After a walk of 4 hrs. from the Leirvand' we reach the — Ytterdals-Saetre (2953 ft.; good quarters), prettily situated near the lofty fall of the Duma. A good bridge crosses the Leira from this point to the Leiraas, which is traversed by the route from Rejshjem to the Sognefjeld (see p. 148). From the saeters to Rejshjem, 4-5 hrs. more (see p. 148) k. From Skjolden on the Sognefjord to Fortun and the Horunger. From Skjolden to Fortun, 6 Kil. (33/4 Engl. M.), carriage-road. From Fortun to the Oscarshoug takes 6 hrs. (there and back), but if the Skaga- stale and the Dyrhaugstz'nd are included a night should be spent at the Riingsseeter. If, however , the traveller is very much pushed for time it is possible, by making a very early start, to return to Fortun the same evening. Skjolden (p. 101 ; fast station for boats, slow for horses), a steam- boat-station at the head of the Lysterfjord, lies near the mouth of the pretty *Fortundal (see p. 159). The birches and alders here, as is so often the case in Norway, are sadly mutilated, being per- iodically stripped of their foliage which is used, alternately with hay, as fodder for the sheep and goats. The cows also eat it readily, but their milk is apt to be unpleasantly flavoured by it. The barley-fields are remarkably luxuriant. The potato-plant often attains a height of 2 ft. or more. A ferry-boat (rowed by the quaint old ‘Faergemand’ Ole Haloo'rsan Eide) conveys us across the rapid Fortunelo, on the left bank of which lies the large Gaard Eidc. The road then crosses the Eid, an old moraine, and reaches the milk-coloured Eidsoand, on the N. side of which rises the huge rocky wall of the Jersingnaasi (3088 ft.). To the N.E. we have a view of the Fanaraak (p. 150). We now skirt the left bank of the lake and then ascend the left bank of the Fortunelv, passing the Lingsfos on the right. Farther on the road is overhung by the Smalaberg, beyond which the Kvwfos is seen on the right. To the right, at a dizzy height above us , we observe Gaard Fuglsteg (‘bird path’;- 2490 ft.), past which a fatiguing path leads to Famms at the E. end of the Aardalsvand in the Aardal (see p. 98). Jotunheim. HORUNGER. 1 7. Route. 1 59 6 Kil. 1'Fortun (*Inn at the Landhandler’s; horse hence across the fjeld, 16 kr., see p. 148), consisting of a group of handsome gaards, with an ancient timber-built church, situated on a hill 435 ft. above the fjord, and commanding a beautiful view. Plea- sant walk from the inn at Fortun up the valley to the *Skagagjel, a gorge on the right, from which the O-vatbe'rgset'v is precipitated into the Fortundal (1/4 hr.). Crossing both bridges, we reach an eminence immediately above the fall, in which a fine rainbow is formed by the morning sun. We may then proceed in 5 min. more to a bridge over the Fortundalselv and (without crossing the bridge) to a small rocky *Hitt by the Haoshetfos (whence a rude ladder descends to the salmon-fishing apparatus), and thus obtain a view of the beautiful valley in both directions, and of the Lingsfos to the S. The *Fortundal, a deep and narrow valley, somewhat resembling that of Lauterbrunnen, but with a well-cultivated floor and Wooded slopes, extends from the Lysterfjord for about 18 Eng]. M. to the N., as far as the glacier-mountains near the Tvcerdalsk-z'rke and the Tundradalskirke (6590 ft.). On the left side it is enclosed by the Jersegnaase, the Tufsen, the Soaj- dalsbree, and the Stenegbroe, and on the right by the Delefjeld, the Liabroe (6100 ft.), and the Mt'dtdalslez'fti. The last saeter, that of Narstedal, lies about 12 Eng]. M. above Fortun. Excursions may be made from it to the head of the valley, to the Hound, a lake situated 4300 ft. above the sea- level, and to the Tundredalskirke. Fortun (where Ole Solfestsen is a good guide) is the best start- ing—point for a visit to the Horunger. The road (see pp. 150, 151) ascends to Gaarden Berge, at the entrance to the Helgedat, beyond which there is a bridle-path, leading in 3-4 hrs. to the saeters of Gjessingen and Turtegred (2790 ft.; p. 153). Above Gjessingen is the *Klypenaasi, an admirable point of view, a visit to which obviates the necessity of ascending to the Oscarshoug (comp. p. 150). Those who wish to penetrate farther into the Horunger cross the bridge over the Helgedalselv mentioned at p. 150, 1/2 hr. below Gjessingen, and ascend to the Riinggadn-Sseters or the Skagastele. To reach the former we ascend directly to the right in 20 min., or follow the stream for 6 min. and then climb to the right, The lowest of the five Rz'inggadn Swters is the most comfortable. The route to the Skagastele turns to the left 6 min. beyond the bridge, crosses the Riingselv by another bridge, and in 40 min. reaches the two swters, of which the upper one is to be preferred. The scenery here is very striking. The view embraces part of the immense *Eorunger, one of the wildest mountain-groups in Jotunheim, with their precipitous slopes, picturesque pinnacles, and numerous glaciers, to which the green valleys below present a pleasing con- trast. The sharpness of the peaks and ridges is causedby the rapid disintegration of the ‘gabbro’ rock of which the mountains are formed. The name Horunger is said to be an ancient Aryan word, probably signifying ‘large mountains’ (akin to the Greek 590;, Slavonic gor, and the horje in the Voss district). 160 Route 17. DYRHOUGSTIND. ' Jot-unhc'im. On the side next the Riinggadn opens the *Riingsbotn, a huge basin containing a large glacier, behind which towers the lofty Riingstind (7000 ft.). On the E. the ‘botn’ is bounded by the Dyrhaugsfjeld and on the W. by the Levnaasi or Nonhougen, which is prolonged towards the S. by the Soleitindcr and the Austabot- tinder. The best survey of the Riingsbotn is obtained by ascending the Riingselv for 3/4-1 hr. beyond Riinggadn. A walk of 11/2 hr. more brings us to the glacier, which we may cross, skirting the Riingstind, to its 8. side, and then descend into the Stelsmamdal p. 99 . ( Th)e Skagastelsbotn lies between the Dyrhaugsfjeld on theW. and the Kolnaasi on the E. Its floor is covered by the Skagastelsbraz, with a small ice-lake, which may be crossed to the Midtmaradal (p. 99). To the SE. tower the Skagastelstinder, among them the Store Skagastelstind (7875 ft.), the ascent of which cannot be accomplished from this side. This ‘botn’ is reached more easily from the Skagastele than from Riinggadn. Y The nearest Dyrhaugstind may be ascended either from the Skagastele or from the Riinggadn in. about 31/2 hrs. In the first case we ascend to the S. to the Dyrhaug, and continue straight on. From the Riinggadn we descend to the Riingselv, cross the bridge, and then ascend the E. bank of the stream to the (1 hr.) hill above the gorge, whence we obtain a good view of the Riingsbrae. We then climb to the left to the top of the Dyrhaug, and follow the crest, partly over debris, to (21/2 hrs.) the summit of the first- *Dyrhaugstind (6537 ft.). The view hence is remarkably fine. Towards the E. we survey the Skagastalstinder, to the right of which are the wild Maradalstinder; to the W. the Soleitinder, Austabot- tinder, and Riingstinde'r; and to the S. the other Dyrhaugstinder, ris- ing in an amphitheatre to the last and highest (6965 ft.), which is still unnamed. To the left, lower down, lies the Skagastelsbmz, with a small ice-lake (4267 ft.), and to the right is the Riingsbrae. Between the Skagastelstinder and the Dyrhaugstinder peep the snow-clad mountains on Lakes Bygdin and Tyin. To the N. rise the Fanaraak and the Smerstabstz'nder, and towards the W. stretches the enormous Jostedalsbrae as far as the Lodalskaupe (p. 104). The traveller is particularly cautioned against venturing too far along the sharp aréte with its loose crumbling stones. The Styggedalsbotn, the third of these characteristic basins of the Horunger, bounded on the W. by the Kolnaasi, on the E. by the Simlenaasi, and on the S. by the Styggedalstind, is most easily visited from the HcLgedal-Swter (p. 153), situated in the Helgedal about 1 hr. above the bridge mentioned at pp. 150, 159. A ‘guide should be brought from Fortun. Throu h the Helgedal and over the Keiser to the Skogadal, see pp. 279, 2 8. From Gjessz'ngen to Bwvertun and Rejshjem, see pp. 276-274. 4-161 18. From the Gudbrandsdal to Mseraak on the Geirangerfjord. ' m From Bredvangen to Lindsheim, 83 Kil. (52 Engl. M.), road with fast stations; from Lindsheim to Grjotlid, 35 Ki1.(22 M.), and on to the Ba'eidalsvand, road with slow stations. From this point we either row to the other end of the lake, and walk or ride thence to Maeraak (comp. p. 164) or proceed the whole way by the bridle-path (11-13 hrs.). A peculiarity of all the routes from the Gudbrandsdal to the western fjords is that they ascend gradually to a lofty and comparatively level mountainous tract, after traversing which for some hours they descend abruptly several thousand feet to the fjords. This final descent, partly over snow, coming at the end of a long and rough walk or ride, is far more fatiguing than the ascent at the beginning of the expedition. The marked contrast between the wild scenery of these mountains, with their sharp and exhilarating air, and the rich vegetation of the smiling fjords, where the weather is often oppressively hot, may be regarded as one of the chief curiosities of Norway, especially as these. entirely different regions are often within two or three hours’ walk of each other. The contrast would, indeed, be hardly more striking were the Lake of Como transferred to the heart of the wildest snow and glacier scenery of Swi- tzerland. The route via Rejshjem (p. 145) to Fortun. on the Sognefjord (comp. RR. 16 c, 17 f), is finer than the route to Meeraak here described. Route to Andvord and the Church of Lom, see p. 129. By the Church of LOIll the Rejshjem road turns to the left, while our route leads to the W., skirting the S. bank of the Otta'vand. The high mountain on the left is the Lomsegg (p. 147), and that to the right (N the Loms Honing (5650- ft.). The country here is tolerably well peopled. On the slopes of the valley lie at number of farm-houses, the lands of which are separated from each other by long stone walls and the rye and barley-fields are frequently enlivened with reapers, gleaners, and persons engaged in irrigating the soil with the help of large shovels (Skyldrek). Part of the road is. bordered with alders, a tree rarely seen in Norway. . 14 Kil. 'i-Aanstad, a good station, to the E. of the church of Skeaker. Farther on, the road traverses thick deposits of sand, the remains of old glacier-moraines. On the right we pass the confluence of the Aurel'u, descending from the Aursje, with the bluish-green Ottadc. which the road soon crosses. On the left we obtain a view into the Lunderdal, with its immense moraines; to the left rise the glacier-clad Hestbrmpiggene (p. 147), and in the background the Holatindcr; on the right the valley is bounded by the Grjotaafjeld, the T-vwrfjetd, and the Svaahe, of which the two first are upwards of 6250 ft. in height. A little farther on, we pass the ruins of a bridge. From the S'vaahe (6110 ft.) descend several waterfalls from a height. of nearly .3000 ft., besides a number of avalanche-tracks. The mountains are somewhat monotonous, but of imposing dimensions. The Otta is crossed by a bridge in the old Norwegian style. Up the valley we ‘obtain a fine view of the snow -clad Glittertind (p. 144). The river expands into the form of a lake, on which there are several boats. _11 Kil. 'l-Lindsheim, a good station. Lars, the landlord , a BAEDEKER‘s ‘Norway and Sweden. 2nd Edit. 11 162 Route 18. ' LINDSHEIM. From Gudbrandsdal well-informed man, sometimes acts as a guide. Tastefully painted clock and cupboard. (‘Skri-varbred’ and ‘Buyers’ are two kinds of cake esteemed by the natives.) A good road leads from Lindsheim through the Bo'otedal, past the Lia- vand, to Faaberg in the Jostedal. This route is described by Mr. Milford in his ‘Norway’ as one of surpassing grandeur, the view of the Jostedal and of the huge towering Lodalskaupe being almost unparalleled. If the trav- eller is prepared for a very fatiguing expedition of 15 hrs. (on the second day), he drives from Lindsheim to (16 Kil.) Mork in the Brotedal, walks or rides b the Dym'ngssoeter and past the picturesque Liavand to the Sotaswter (5470 ft.), and thence to the Rekjeskaalvand (3070 ft.), where the night may be spent at the Musubg/ttsoeter. Next day the Svartbytdal is ascended to the Hansp‘ikje (4519 ft.), whence the route descends steeply through the Sprengdal to the Jostedal. In the latter valley tolerable quarters may be obtained at the Faaberg-Stel (p. 104). From Mork a road leads to Opstryn, ascending the Nordfjordbroe to the Kamphamrene (4065 ft.), from which there is a tremendous descent of extra- ordinary abruptness into the Sandal (967 ft.), finally through the Hjelledal to Hjelle on the OPstrynvand (see p. 187). _ From Lindsheim to Grjotlid the traveller is conveyed in a stolkjaerre, which is required by the authorities to have broad .wheels. As long as the road remains in the valley of the Otta, it is of the ordinary width, but afterwards becomes so narrow that two vehicles can scarcely pass each other. It was constructed to facilitate the intercourse between the denizens of the upper Gud- brandsdal and those on the western fjords. For the greater part of the way it leads through a vast wooded and stony wilderness, but is useful to the proprietors of the saeters on the neighbouring hills, whose traffic it facilitates, and even to the inhabitants of the Upper Gudbrandsdal, who find it cheaper to bring some of the necessaries of life over the mountains on horseback from the western fjords than from Lillehammer in carts. —— While visiting this district the writer met a government engineer at Grjotlid who was engaged in planning a continuation of the road to Maeraak or to Opstryn. After leaving Lindsheim the road passes the Nordbjeryslcirke, erected in 1864. Above the thin pine - woods we observe the -Gjedingsbak, which descends from the Heiberg. -— The Dennfos Bridge which crosses the Ottaelv commands a view of three valleys, the Tundradal to the S., the Brotedal to the W. (see above), and the Billingsdal to the N., at the junction of which lies Aamot (‘meeting of the streams’). -— Beyond this point the road begins to ascend con- siderably, and traverses a vast tract of rocky debris ( Ur). 0n the left flows the Ottaelv, which descends from the Hegerbottenvand and forms the Qibergsfos. Looking back, we obtain a view of lofty mountains with glaciers, including the Tutor/fjeld and Bjarnskred. The Hagerbottenvand ‘with its wooded islands, occupies a higher region of the valley. In the background is the Skridulaupbrtr, with the Glitterhe and the Framrusthovd, and to the right, on the hill, lie the Hegerbottcn-Swtre (3040 ft.). Passing a saw-mill (Sagbmg), we next reach the Fredriksvand and Polvand (1930 ft.). The road now ascends continuously through wild forest, where to Mee-raak. GRJOTLID. 18. Route. 163 thousands of fallen trees and branches broken off by the wind (Vindfald) are left to decay. This scenery will often recall the interesting pictures of Hr. Cappelen, the Norwegian artist. The road skirts for nearly 1/2 hr. an unbroken series of cataracts formed by the Otta, forming the Potfos ( ‘K jeeklce Fosse’). At rare intervals the traveller meets with ‘Saeterfolk’ bringing their whey in ‘Myse- flasker’ down from the mountains. -— Farther on we pass a water- fall on the right, and then by a wooden bridge cross the Thordatsfos, an imposing waterfall descending from the Thordal on the N ., and fed by the glaciers and snow at the head of that valley. On hills formed by deposits of debris, to the right, lie the saeters ofBittingen, to the S. of which, on the opposite side of the Otta, are the Aasen- scztre. A number of the pines in this neighbourhood are curiously shaped. The country looks parched and monotonous, as a peculiar- ity of the climate here is that rain is very rare in summer (comp. p. 129). The large glacier—streams Otta and Thordalselv flow through a dry and barren wilderness. To the right, farther on, we observe the Nysaztre, and we next pass the Vutu'vand (2685 ft.), a pretty mountain-lake, into which the Vutudatselv falls. The road is now comparatively level. On both sides and in the distance rise snow-clad mountains. On the left is the Slcridutaupbraz, with its ice-basin (‘Botn"). We then pass the Hei'mdatsoand and Grjot- lidsvand, and after a drive of 35 Kil. from Lindsheim reach -—- Grjotlid (‘stony slope’), a Fjeldstue or small mountain-inn belonging to the government, and containing two double beds. Ex- cellent trout (Fjetderreter) are generally to be had, but otherwise the fare is simple. The tenant Christ may be taken as guide to Maeraak (4 kr.; horse and guide 8 kr., with fee of 11/2-2 kr.). Reindeer and bears abound in the neighbourhood. The latter are epicures in their way, carrying ofi pigs when they can capture. them, but despising goats’ flesh. FROM GnJo'rLIn 'ro OPSTRYN (8-10 hrs.). This route from the Gud- brandsdal to the Nordfjord is less interesting than that to Meeraak. It turns at once to the S.W. to the Heilstuguvand, passes the base of the Skra'du- laupbroe which lies to the S., and leads through the Vatsenddal and across the boundary of Bergens Stift to Hjelle in the Hjelledal. From Hjelle {across the OPstrg/n'vand to Toning and Visnoes, on the Nordfjord, see p. The mountain-route from Grjotlid to Maeraak (10-12 hrs.) is very fatiguing and somewhat deficient in variety of scenery. Driv- ing is practicable as far as the Breidalsvand. Beyond Grjotlid trees disappear entirely from the landscape. The flora is of an Alpine character. After 1 hr. a large valley diverges to the N .W., through which a little-frequented path leads to the Kalurdal. We cross the K jarringsetv, and soon reach the Breidalsvand (2885 ft.), a lake about 6 Engl. M. long, the clear waters of which reflect the Vatsendegg. On the N. side rises the Breidals- egg, with its snow-fields and rocky wildernesses (Ur), which the path traverses. Pedestrians must also wade through the Hamsaetv.' 11* 164 Route 18." DJUPVAND. It is therefore better to traverse the lakeby boat, riders sending on their horses to the W. end. The path next runs at a consider- able height above the Djupoande or chain of lakes extending into the higher mountains, each of which is a little higher than the one below. The Upledsegg, which becomes grander as we advance, rises in the form of a huge wall of rock to the S.W., with a flat summit, presenting the appearance of having been sharply cut off, and is covered with a snowy mantle (Laken), offshoots from which descend to the green lake. Avalanches fall into the water at very frequent intervals. At the W. end of the lake is a small Fjeldstue, erected by government, the woman (Budeie) presiding over which sup- plies coffee (1/2-1 kr.; not a suitable place for spending" the night, and far from clean). The Budeie also has charge of 100 sheep and 50 goats. Maeraak is reached from this hut in 4-6 hrs. more. We now ascend in 20 min. to Stavbralckene (Sta'v, ‘stratum’, ‘layer’; B'rek, ‘clitf’), with the highest Djupvand, from which the Djupvandsfos descends. To the W. tower huge walls of rock, beyond which is the ice-fall of the Nordfjo-rdbra', a glacier virtually un- known, with the Rindalshom forming its centre. There is now no distinct path, but our route leads round the E. side of the lake for 1 hr., crossing numerous torrents and waterfalls. At the N. end of the lake we. ascend for about 20 min. more, over rocks worn smooth and almost polished by glacier-friction, and at length reach the culminating point of the pass (about 3500 ft. above the sea-level), the watershed between the Gudbrandsdal and the western fjords, where we obtain a *VIEW of the finely shaped mountains around the GeirangerFjord, which itself becomes visible at little farther on. The direction of the path is now indicated by small and hardly noticeable heaps of stones ( Varder); the descent is extremely steep, and this is perhaps the most unpleasant part of the whole route. We soon reach the Oplamdske Dal, the highest basin of the valley, once filled by a lake, and bounded on the E. by the Holencrbba, rising above it like a wall. In this basin lies a large and thriving gaard (1365 ft.), beyond which the route, now a kind of ~cart-track, again descends very steeply. Fine waterfalls are seen in every direction, and several other gaards are passed. Below us lies the fjord with the small church 200 ft. above it; on the height opposite, to the N .,-lies the gaard of Vesteraas. —- At length, in 344 hrs. from the summit of the pass, we reach Maaraak, see p. 184.~ ' . 1,9.f From Bergen to Throndhjem by Steamer. 80 Nautical Miles (320 Eng]. M.). S'rnannoa'r 5-6 times weekly in 4560 hrs., usually starting late in the, evening (fares 32 or 25 kr.). .A berth should be secured at once (comp. p. XIX). The‘ large steamers call only at A'alesund, Molde, and ‘Ohristiansand. ' ' ' ' The voyage is on the-whole of little interest. There are, however, a few fine, points, such as the mountain called Hornélen (or Smalsar- DALSFJORD. 19. Route. 165 horn) , the promontory of Sladt, the charming little town of Molde with the view of the Romsda-ls-Fjord, and the promontory of Stems-hasten. The view of Throndhjem from the sea is also picturesque, and in fine weather the snow-clad mountains of the interior are visible .in the distance, especially between the Sognefjord and Molde. These views, however, do not counterbalance the monotony of the rest of the voyage, and the _so- called ‘inland-route‘ to Molde (R. 21) is far preferable to the direct steamboat-voyage. For it must not be forgotten that the finest scenery is , as we have repeatedly observed, generally to be found in the inner recesses of the fjords, and not at their months. The distances in the following description are given in sea-miles and calculated from Bergen. Bergen, see p. 67. The steamer threads its way through the Skjaergaard, or belt of islands, lying off the district of Nerd-Hor- tund, which, together with Send-Horland, to the S. of Bergen, constituted the ancient Herdafylke. The first important station is (11 SM.) Slcjtrrgehacn, a little to the S. of the Sognefjord (R. 16). We next pass the entrance to that fjord, which shows no sign here of the magnificent scenery of its inner ramifications. The shapele'ss mountains have all been worn down by glacier-action , and most of them are entirely barren. To the N. of the Sognefjord the steamer skirts first the districts of Sendfjord and Nordfjord (the latter extending to the promon- tory of Stadt, p. 167), which together formed the ancient Firda- fig/Ute. We cross the Aafjord, and then the IMls/‘jord, at the en- trance to which is the Prwstz station. Some of the vessels do not touch at Praeste, but steer towards the W. to Vare, from which a visit may be paid to the interesting island of Alden (1550 ft. in height), which is known as the ‘Norslce Hcst’. The proprietor of the island, who lives on the W. side, possesses upwards of 1000 sheep. He and his two ‘Husmcmd’, who live on the E. side, spend the whole year in the island. On leaving Przeste the steamer tra-_ verses the-Granesund (with the Atlee on the left) and the Stung- fjord, passes Stavnees, the westernmost promontory of Norway, and ‘reaches the Stavfjord, which forms the entrance to the'Fm-defjord. The steamer that touches at Vare skirts the E. side of the island of Alden and steers thence to the Stavfjord._ The Dalsfjord and the Fordefjord are embraced in the name of Sendfjord, and are traversed once weekly by a steamer from Bergen, taking 3 days to the voyage there and back. . ~ The Dalsfjord (in ‘Spindfjord‘, not to be confounded with the arm of the Voldenfjord, p. 168) runs inland for a distance of 50 Kil. (31 Engl. M); at the entrance rises the massive Atlee (upwards of 2000 ft. in height). The steamer plying on this fjord passes Strermsnaas and Dale (*Inn), which lies on the S. side, about halfway up the fjord. Above Dale rise the Dalshest (2365 ft.) and the dome~shaped Kringlen (2468 ft.). Farther on are the Lake- landshest, behind which rises the flat and generally snow-clad Blejan (‘mantle’; 4400 ft.), and the imposing Kvamshest (4120 ft.). The last steamboat-station on the fjord is Sveen, near the E. end, from which a ‘hilly road leads to (11 Kil.) Langeland and (11 Kil.) Farrde (p. 178). About 1 Kil. beyond Sveen is Osen, whence a road leads to Sande (p..1_77). The Fardefjord, 60 Kil. (37 M.) in length, though less striking than the Dalsfjord. also abounds in bold mountain-scenery. The most impprt- ant place is Naustdal on the N. bank. At the‘ end of vthe fjor'd rises 166 Route 19. NORDFJORD. From Bergen the majestic Kvamshest, at the foot of which lies the skyds-station Ferde, wheirégp we may drive to M0 and Nedre Vasenden on the Jglstervand ( . . p 20 SM. Floreren (Inn), an island between the Sendfjord and Nordfjord, is an important station, being touched at by some of the direct steamers to and from Molde and Throndhjem , and also by the Sendfjord and Nordfjord steamers. This station, which has rapidly assumed the dimensions of a small town (500 inhab.), forms the E. focus of the traffic of the Nordals, Eike, and Hedals fjords, and partly owes its prosperity to its former success in the herring-fishery. On a solitary rocky islet to the W. of Floreen is the Stabbensfyr (lighthouse). The coasting steamers, which now run between the mainland and the belt of islands, next touch either at Kalleoaag on the Frejen or at Kjelkemes on the large island of Bremangcr, which lies at the mouth of the Nordfjord. At the E. end of the island is the perpendicular and apparently overhanging *Homélen (3000 ft.), rising immediately from the water. An attendant of Olaf Tryg- vason (end of the 10th cent.) is said once to have attempted to scale this mountain and to have been rescued by the king himself from imminent peril. On the E. side of Hornelen is the rocky island of Marc. The steamer then traverses the often very rapid Skatestrem, the entrance of the Nordfjord, and the Vaagsfjord, and stops at the station of (27 Molde, or the opposite village of Scetemazs, on the Vaagsa. The *Nordfjord, extending to the E. of Molde for about 55 Engl. M., is one of the finest fjords in Norway, the innermost arms being especially picturesque. A steamer from Bergen plies on this fjord 4-6 times monthly. The first station is Rugsund on the S. bank, the second is Bryggen on the N. bank, from which a road crosses the lofty Maurstadcid (2060 ft.) to (20 Kil.) Aahjem on the Vanelosfiord (p. 168). A little beyond Bryggen, on the S. bank, is Daviken, where Claus Frimann, the poet (d. 1829), once lived. .On the N. side, to the E. of Daviken, diverges the Eidsfjord, running towards the E., with Nestdal or Nausdal on its N. bank, and Eid at its head, whence we may proceed via the (6 Kil.) Nordfiordeid to Vedvik on the Homindalsvand (see p. 182). —- The S. arm of the Nordfjord is now called the Isfjord and farther up the Hundviksfjord, from which, to the S.W., diverges the Aalfotfiord and beyond it the Hyefjord and the Gloppenfjord. The few steamers which ply in the Aalfotfjord and the Hyefjord call at Jelsmzs at the entrance to the Aalfotfjord, pass the fine *Waterfall of the Hxendalsclo on the right, and then cross the Hye— fjord, calling at Hestenws. The Hyefjord, at the entrance to which rise two imposing mountains, the Slcjwringen on the W. and the Eikemzskctt on the E., each about 4000 ft. in height, deserves a Geog’; ~ Y. Anatalt won to Throndhjem. STADTLAND. 19. Ram. 167 visit. At its head is the station of Stremme (*Inn). The extensive snow-fields and glaciers on both sides of the fjord have hitherto been almostly entirely unexplored. The steamer then traverses the Gloppenfjord to Sandene, charm- ingly situated at its head, whence a road leads past the Eidsfos to Vasenden on the Bredheimsvand (p. 180). The steamer now returns to the main fjord, calling at Rya- fiiazren, Utviken (p. 181), Indoiken (p. 181), Faleide (p. 181), Old- eren (p. 190), and sometimes Loen (p. 189) and Visnces (p. 187). The coasting steamers traverse the strait between the island of Vaagse and the mainland, touching at Osmu'ndoaag. They then pass the islands of Burma and Scljeo, the latter of which contains the ruins of a Monastery of St. Album (12th cent.) and the shrine of Sunniva, an Irish saint, and afterwards the patroness of Bergen. Opposite the Seljee lies Selje, with the church of Hove, on the S.W. bank of the peninsula of Stadtland, a lofty plateau 17 Engl. M. long and 21/2-8 M. broad, stretching out into the sea in the form of a hand and forearm. The peninsula terminates in the promontory Stadt, well known for the tremendous storms by which it is vi- sited. The natives declare that the breakers here are sometimes 20 fathoms in height. A tunnel for the steamers has been pro- jected through the Mandseid, the narrow isthmus connecting the peninsula of Stadtland with the mainland. A visit to the Stadtland takes 10-12 hrs. Provisions must be taken with the party, and ‘forbud’ must be sent on to Drage if driving or rid— ing is contemplated. From Selje we row along the precipitous rocky bank in 14% hr. to Draw (poor quarters), above which rise the Skrazlna (1400 ft.) on the E. and the Vetenakken on the W. From Drage a road leads E. to the chapel of Lekanger and then to the N.W. throu h the Merkedal, passing the Dalsbevand to (15 Kil.) Ervik, a poor ‘San ", exposed to all the violence of the ocean , with inhabitants who support themselves on milk and fish. From Ervik we may ascend (with guide) the *Kjterringen (1680 ft.), which commands an admirable view of the ocean, the Stadtland, the islands as far as Aalesund, and the Sendmore Alps to the S. An easier path diverges to‘ the right about 20 min. from Ervik and ascends through a small valley. -- Those who do not wish to return to Selje may proceed from the Kjaerringen to the E., through the Aarem'ksdal and along the S. slope of the Store Varden, to (11/2-2 hrs.) Eltevik, and row thence, enjoying a fine view of the Revikhorn (1410 ft.), to the Haugsholm (see p. 168). Visitors to the Stadtland approaching from the N. disembark at the Haugsholm and make the tour in the reverse direction. Beyond the promontory of Stadt the larger steamers cross the Vanelvsgab and pass the Sands, containing the famous Dolstens Cavern, about 200 ft. above the sea, the recesses of which have been only partly explored. They then skirt the W. sides of the large islands of Gurske and Hadreidland, touch at Hero, and soon reach Aalesund (see below). Those who travel by a coasting steamer may avoidv the tempest— nous passage round the Stadtland by making the following tour. 168 Route 19. AAHJ EM. From Bergen Landing at ,Selje we row thence through the Moldefjord to (1 hr.) Gaarden Ez'de, whence a good but rather steep bridle-track crosses the Mandseid (820 ft. ; p. 167) to Enerhaug, situated on the K jadepollen, the innermost branch of the Vanelvsfjord. Then we proceed by boat in 11/2 hr. to --- Aahjem, at the S.W. end of the Vanel'vsfjord, and the terminus of the Aalesund and Volden steamers (plying twice weekly). Near Aahj em are the church and parsonage of Vanelven. — From Aahjem to Bryggen on the Nordfjord, see p. 166. After leaving Aahjem the Volden steamer calls at Sand'vilt on the Stadtland (whence a footpath leads to Selje, p. 167; 2 hrs), the island of Haugsholm (route to Eltevik, see p. 167), Eidsaa on the Sevdefjord (see below), and several other unimportant stations.- It then traverses the Revdefjord and the Voldenfjord and reaches Volden (see below) in 5-6 hrs. The following is a pleasant excursion of two days, beginning at Aahjem and ending at Volden. (The traveller is recommended to take with him some tea or coffee essence and other portable provisions.) We first drive up the Almklovdal for 8 Kil. (5 Engl. At a point 3 Kil. before reaching Almklov we leave the carriage in order to ascend (with guide) the hill above the Storlioatn, which commands an admirable view of the Sevdefjord. We then de- scend, passing the Kilsbrekkevatn, to (‘2 hrs.) Ever-Berg, the highest gaard in the Sordal, about 800 ft. above the sea-level. Thence the steep road descends in 3/4 hr. to Nader-Berg and the Serdalsgaarde on the Serdalsvatn, where a carriage can be hired to continue the journey. In about 1/2 hr. we reach Vila and the church of Seode, on the Servdefjord, the E. bank of which is extremely precipitous and picturesque, while the W. bank is flat and studded with pleasant gaards. Among these is Eidsaa, a station of the Aalesund and Volden steamboats (see above). From Vik we may drive in the same carriage up the Norddal, passing the waterfall of Sarpen, to Toerberg, the highest gaard in the valley. Thence we proceed on foot, with the aid of a guide, skirting a brook and several small lakes and at last ascending somewhat rapidly to a swterabove the Dalsfjord, commanding a magnificent view. We then descend by a well-marked saeter-track to Indselsat, 3 hrs. from Tverberg, where we procure good accom- modation for the night. The Dalsfiord (not to be confounded with the fjord mentioned at p. £65), an arm of the Voldenfjord, is about 17 Kil. (101/2 Engl. in length and is enclosed on both sides by mountains 3000-4000 ft. high. At the S. end of it, 5 Engl. M. from Indselsaet, lies Stensoik. _ I On the second day we row in 1/2 hr. to Dale, and then (with guide) ascend through the Dalsdal and descend through the Laur- to Birkedal (see below), The traveller is recommended to to Throndhjem. AALESUND. 19. Route. 169 combine with this route an ascent of the Felden (3855 ft. , 4 hrs. from Dale), which commands a survey of almost the whole Send- mere, the Stadtland, and a large part of the Nordfjord with the Gjegnalundsbrae and Aalfotebrae on its S. side. The Jostedalsbrae forms a conspicuous feature in this prospect. Towards the E. the Felden terminates in a huge ‘botn’, or mountain-basin, above which rise the imposing Torene (Store Toren 4050 ft., Lille Term 3880 ft.). — The descent from the Felden to the Laurdal is not to be at- tempted without a guide. In 4-5 hrs. we reach Sendre Birkedal, whence a path leads to the S. via Smerdal to Nestdal on the Eidsfjord (p. 166), while a road (carriage not obtained without waiting for about 3 hrs.) leads to the N. to Kile and (8 Kil.) Felsvilc on the Kilefiord, the latter of which is called at by the Aalesund steamers once weekly. 'We may also reach Volden by small boat in 2-21/2 hrs. Volden (near the *Redsazt Station), situated in a fertile district on the N.E. bank of the picturesque Voldenfjord, is a good centre for several interesting excursions. The chief of these are those to Aahjem and the Stadtland, see above; via Qrsten'vik and Bmutesazt to Smbo on the .Ierundfjord, see p. 172; across the Austefjord to Ferde and by carriage to Kaldoatn (p. 173), and thence to the Jerundfjord (p. 173) or the Hornindalsvand (p. 182). Leaving Volden, the steamer passes the entrance of the Hrsten- fjord, traverses the Vartdalsfjord and the Bredsund, and stops at —— 42 S.M. Aalesund (Hotel Skandinaoz'e, S., R., and B. 5 kr.; Schjelderop’s Hotel), a thriving commercial town with 5800 inhab., founded in 1824, and picturesquely situated, partly on the main- land, and partly on islands which protect its harbour. The neigh- bouring flshings of Storeggen, to the W., are in great repute, even attracting fishermen from Sweden. The town forms the capital of the StOTfjO‘l‘d, the numerous arms of which all unite here, and is also the great mart of the torsk fishery. The fish are caught, to the number of 5-6,000,000 annually, in large and coarse nets, about 7 ft. in width, with green glass buoys attached to them. A breakwater affords additional protection to the harbour. The prin- cipal part of the town lies on the Vazre, and the church is in Helvigen. The Gods and the Valders are each provided with a lighthouse. The Aalesundsaxel, a hill surmounted with a vane (‘Elsie’), commands a good survey of the town, with the Lang- field to the S.E. The well-constructed reservoirs which supply the town with water are situated here. — A walk may be taken to the E. to the church of Borgund (which of course must not be confounded with Borgund in the Laerdal, p. '94). — Farther distant, to the 8., is the old castle of Hrolf Gangr, the ancient conqueror of Normandy. —- A good road leads from Aalesund to Vestnces on the Romsdalsfjord via Sjeholt (comp. p. 186). To the Jemndfjord and Hellesylt, see R. 20. ' ' ' ' _' The large steamer runs from Aalesund to Moldein 4-5 hrs., 170 Route 19. CHRISTIANSUND. From Bergen without stopping. The small local coasting steamers touch‘ at Hstmrs (on the Harhamse), Hildre, Drenen (on the Hiefjord), and Gjelsten (on the Tomrefjord), and reach Molde in 51/2-6 hrs. 51 S.M. Molde, see p. 192. Beyond Molde the steamer at first steers towards the W., then turns to the N. and enters the Julsund. The islands of Otters and Gorsen are passed on the left, the Julaxlen (1810 ft.), and later the wedge-shaped G jendemsfjeld (2080 ft.) on the right. The first station is Bud, which is also connected with Molde by a local steamboat and by a good road. On the left lies the island of Ona, also a steamboat-station, with a signal-light. The promontory of Stemshesten (‘2550 ft.) now comes into sight, beyond the Bodfjeld, and a little later we see the lofty Tustero (p. 171), to the N. of Ohristiansund. The Stemshesten forms the S. boundary of the Nordmere as the Stadtland forms that of the Sendmore. The sea here is as rough as at the Stadt. The steamer now emerges from the island-belt and passes the Hustadvile, at the head of which lies the village and church of that name. We then pass the small Fuglen (‘Bird Island’), with a signal, on the left, and on the right observe several gaards at the base of Stemshesten (Stemme, Homes, etc), which have regular steamboat-communication with Ohristiansund (see below). Fine view of the snow-mountains of the Romsdal. The steamer next passes the signal—stations of Hcidholmsfyr and Hestskjtrrsfyr (white building), and then steers between the Kirke— land and the Inland to —- 58 S.M. Christiansund (Mellerop’s Hotel, in the Store Gade, middling; Godstad’s), an important trading town with 12,000 inhab. , the staple commodity of which is fish, picturesquely situated on four small rocky islands, in the midst of which lies the harbour. These islands are Kirkelandet, to the S.W., with an old and a new church and the hotels; Inlandet to the E.; Nordlandet to the N., with a church and some fine woods; and Godmadslandet or Skorpa to the W., with the drying-places for the ‘klipfisk’. Small steamboats ply between the different islands. From the harbour we ascend the street to the right, and then visit the New Church, which is surrounded with pretty promenades, commanding a fine view of the mountains to the S.E. We then return to the harbour via the Old Church. The Vagttaam also commands an extensive view. —- In the sea, opposite Ohristiansund and about 1‘2 Engl. M. distant lie the small islands or ‘fiskevaar’ of Grip, with a population of 200 fishermen and a chapel. A little farther out is the little archipelago of Gryptarran. The KLIPFISK, or dried cod, the preparation of and trade in which form the principal industry of Christiansund, is mostly exported to Spain, where it is known as Baeallao Seco (from Lat. baculus, a stick). It is always packed in ‘Vogers’, each weighing nearly 401bs. Some of the prin- cipal firms carry on so extensive a business that they keep several large steamers merely to convey the fish to Spain. The Christiansund merchants t0 Throndhjem. BEIAN. 19. Route. 171 often possess enormous wealth. and many of the beautiful villas on the sheltered Fanestrand. near Molde (p. 195), belong to them. Christiansund affords opportunity for several pleasant excursions in the fjords, which here stretch far into the mainland. Perhaps the finest of these is the Sundalsfjord, at the head of which lies Sundalsoren (p. 204), whither steamers ply from Christiansund twice weekly. The inter- mediate stations are Stensm'g, Gulseth, Gimnocs, Strand-Buttenfjordseren (comp. p. 200), Hrs, Torvt'g. Hdegaa'rd-Stramsnoes, Hoem, Gjul, Kokm'k- Thingvold (p. 201), Angvt'lc (p. 201), Eidsera-en (p. 197), Fjaset'de, Jordal, Hksen- data», and 0pdal. The voyage takes 8 hrs. Another line of steamers plies from Christiansund twice weekly to (7 hrs.) Sm'endalsaren at the head of the Halsefjord, whence a high-road leads to .Grkedal and Throndhjem (see p. 201). The steamer returns from Surendalsoren on the following morning, thus allowing ample time for a visit to the *Lilledal, a wild and grand mountain ravine, enclosed by precipitous rocky walls like those of the Eikisdal (p. 198). The ravine, which is 7 Engl. M. in length, is traversed by a carriage-road. A third line of steamers plies twice a week to the (4 hrs.) Vinjefjord, returning the same day. A fourth steamer traverses the Kvernassfjord to Eide on the [sing- vaag, whence we may drive to the Fanestrand and Molde (slow stations; see p. 195). The steamer then turns to the N.W.. and calls at Kornstad, Vevang, and Kornvog on Stemhesten (p. 170; in all 4 hrs.). The course of the steamer beyond Christiansund is on the whole well protected by islands. To the W. lies the small island of Grip, to the N. of which is Gripshalen, affording an unimpeded view of the open sea. To the right are the lofty islands of Tustera and Stabben, between which are seen the distant snow-mountains of the Sundal and the Eikisdal. Farther on (Eda, with a steam- boat-station, and the low but extensive Smelen are passed on the left. The scenery now becomes monotonous. To the N. of Smelen is the Ramfjord, which separates it from the large island of Hitte- ren, with the station of Havncn. The only other station which the large steamers visit is Beian, at the entrance to the Throndhjem Fjord. The scenery improves as we approach our destination. 80 M. Throndhjem, see p. 210. 20. From Aalesund to Hellesylt (Molde) by Brstenvik and Hie. 116 Ki]. (72 Engl. M.). This route takes two days. From Aalesund to Zrstenvik, 45 Kil. (28 M.), steamboat twice weekly or oftener in 31/2 hrs. (going on to Volden and Aahjem. pp. 168, 169). From Zrstenvik to Swba, Q5 Kil. (151/2 M.), drive (quarters for the night at Rise, near Seebfl). From Ssebe‘ to 66s, 10 Kil. (6 M.), row. From Eie to Hellesylt, 31 Kil. (191/: M.), ride to Haugen and drive the rest of the way. Hie is a slow, but Haugen a. fast station. Side-saddles may be obtained at either. -— A steamer plies from Aalesund to Hellesylt direct twice weekly. This beautiful route, part of which is by water and part by land, traverses the district of Sendmare. If the traveller, after arriving by this route at Hellesylt, proceeds to visit the Geiranger Fjord (p. 183) and ascends from Mtrraak to Stavbraakkene (p. 164), he will then have seen some of the grandest and most interesting scenery in the whole of Norway. The district of Scndmsre, with its fjords and snow-mountains, comprises all the characteristic features of the country, the picturesque, the sublime, and the severe, while the inhabitants (‘Maringer")- many of whom are prosper- ous. and wealthy, are still noted for their primitive honesty and simplicity. 172 Route 20. QRSTENVIK. From Aalesund =— On the route from Hrstenvik to the Nebbedal there are as yet no ‘fast‘ stations, so that the traveller must either send ‘Forbud‘, or run the risk of waiting several hours for horses at the end of each stage. If possible, therefore, horses should be engaged for the whole journey from .Or'sten- vik to Saebo (or Rise), without stopping at Brauteseet, the intermediate station. A supply of provisions for the journey should be procured at grstenvik. The only tolerable quarters for the night are at Rise. Sh'om’s ‘Sondmores Beskrivelse’ (1762-66), a copy of which the station- master at Brauteseet possesses, though an old work , is recommended to the notice of the traveller as containing the best existing description of this most attractive district. Another interesting work is Peder Fglling‘s ‘Folksagn fra Sondmore‘ (2 vols; ‘Aalesund, 1874-77). Aalesund, see p. 169. The steamer first steers across the ex- posed Bredsund. To the N.W. lies the Valders, to the W. the Gods, and to the E. the Hese with the pointed Sukkertop (‘sugar-loaf’). It then traverses the Brandolsfjord to the Hadreidland, with the Hadreid-Kirke, an island with mountains nearly 4000 ft. in height, and then crosses to Sam Vartdal, on the Va'rtdalsfjord. Grand moun— tain scenery. Numerous ancient coast-levels and terraces of detritus, ‘interesting to geologists, are observed. Comp. the Map, p. 166. We next pass the Liadalshorn, rising on the mainland to the E., and enter the Hrstenfjord, at the head of which we stop at the station of Hrstenvik (*Soendsen’s Inn), magnificently situated at the base of the Saudehom (4320 ft.), and aflording a view of the picturesque mountains farther inland. Qrstenvik (like Volden, p. 169) is recommended as headquarters for excursions in the neighbourhood. The valleys are clothed with rich vegetation. From Grstenvik we now drive through the beautiful firstendat or Aamdal, passing the church of grate/n, and traversing a smiling district commanded by. a noble background of mountains. 5 Kil. Gaarden Aam, at the entrance to the Foltestaddal. A road diverges here to the left and ascends the Follestaddal to Kjelaas (14 Kil. from firstenvik), whence a bridle-path leads to (8 Kil.) Standal on the Jorundfjord. Boat hence to Saebo (8 Kil.), see below. Our road to Saabe next ascends an ancient moraine. To the S. towers the majestic Snetz'nd. 9 Kil. Brautesaet (primitive station). We next pass the school- house, and then, on the right, the Vatnevand. The road gradually ascends to a height of 900'ft., passing the entrance to the Bjm'dal ‘on the right, through which a path leads to the Austefjord (p. 169). From the top of the hill and on our descent to Saebo we enjoy a superb **V1nw of the Jerundfjord mountains. The Bonddal, which we now descend, contains several farms. On the left the valley is bounded by the Stokkehorn, the Gretdalstind, the Litledalshom, and the Sazbeaxle; on the right by the Sakshom (4500 ft.), the Storhom (4485 ft.), the Lillehorn, and the Lilleskaardalstinder, which somewhat resemble the Trolltinder in the Romsdal (p. 125). On the right, between these mountains, lie the Sledaland Koz’stadal. 16 Kil. Rise (a fair station, kept by the Lensmand) is about v10 min. drive from Saba, with its new church, situated on the Jorundfjord . This fjord and the Noran gsfjord freeze in winter, while to Hellesylt. NORANGSFJORD. 20. Route. 173 the. main fjord remains open. As the ‘Baadsskydsskafier’ lives about 1 Engl. M. from the station, the traveller should lose no time in ordering a boat with two rowers (‘to Mand Rorfolk’). Saebe forms the best starting-point for a visit to the magnificent **Jorundfjord, which the Norwegians themselves usually consider the finest of all their fjords. From its entrance, about 12 Engl. M. to the SE. of Aalesund, it extends towards the SE. to Bjerke, a distance of 25 Engl. M., and is bounded by huge rocky precipices and wild mountain-slopes, above which peep a number of snow- clad summits. Here, as in other parts of Sendmere, the flattened mountains so characteristic of Norway are replaced by bold and picturesquely formed peaks, separated from each other by profound ravines and sharply defined indentations, reminding the traveller ot' the dolomite mountains in the Tyrol. The fjord, as usual, is really a long, narrow valley filled with water. a At the end of the fjord, opposite Standal (p. 172), rises the Molaup. According to tradition, there once dwelt in the ‘To'olgjel Molaup’ a giantess (‘Qty/gov”), who was wooed by a giant (‘Jain-l”) dwelling in the Raamands- gjerl to the S. of Stiébet. One day she paid him a visit by boat, but found him in so weakly a condition that she spat at him in disgust and thus converted him into stone. On her way back she was overtaken by a storm, and sprang out of the boat between the gaards of Nses and Molaup with such violence that her foot'print (‘Gym-duet“) is still to be seen on the spot. With her other foot she pushed off the boat so vigorously that it dashed across the fjord, made a deep indentation in the mountain by Gaarden Stavscet, and then sank. It still lies there in the form of the Starsaztflu, a rock where the best fishing in the fjord is obtained. Above Sachs and the Norangsfjord the Jerundt‘jord becomes narrower and wilder, being a huge ravine bounded by almost perpendicular moun- tains nearly 5000 ft. in height. From Bjerke at the S. end (12 Kil. from Seebe, Inn), which lies several hundred feet above the fjord, the traveller may pay a visit to the Tyssefos, and drive via Rerslad and Rueid to Kaldvam, and thence over the Km'ven to Ho-rm'ndal (p. 182). An interest- ing trip by boat may also be taken to the Raamandsgje'l with the Rau- mand rising to the S. of Hustadsnazset. At Saebe the Jerundfjord is about 2 Engl. M. in breadth. Oppo- site Saebo on the W. bank, lies Gaarden Skor, with a pretty water- fall. A little to the S., at Gaarden Lelcnazs, is the entrance to the *Norangsfiord, the only branch of the Jerundfjord. A scene from this fjord by Frich is one of the pictures with which Oscarshall is embellished (p. 11). On the right side of the Norangsfjord rise the Stolbjerg (4490 ft.) and the Jagta (5240 ft.), on the left the Leknwsnaklcen and Slogan, and at the head of the fjord lies a gla- cier. The Norangsfjord resembles a large and sequestered Alpine lake. On the right, at the base of the lofty and menacing Stolb.- jerg, is Stennces, with its two gaards. Farther on is the Elgenaafos. 10 Kil. flie, at the head of the Norangsfjord, is a poor station. There are two gaards at Bio, one to the left, belonging to four different families, and another to the right, with eight proprietors, all-of whom gain their livelihood by cattle-breeding. .Some of the interesting houses have the 'oldefashioned Ljor, “or aperture for smoke inthe roof. To facilitate the carrying of pails the peasantry 174 Route 20. .NORANGSDAL. From Aalesund here use a ‘Hisse’, or leathern strap over the shoulders, with a transverse piece of wood across the chest, from which the pails (‘Dailj’) are suspended. A road now leads inland to the Stacbe-rg-Saetre (see below), beyond which there is a bridle-path only. It is, therefore, usual to ride from Qie all the way. Saddles have been provided by the Turist-forening for the use of travellers. If ‘Forbud’ has not been sent to Hie, travellers must be prepared to wait several hours for horses, as in summer the men and horses are engaged in the fields, while the women are often in the pastures with their cattle, leaving their children at home alone. The traveller is often expected to fasten his own baggage to the ‘Hest‘; and as a diminutive urchin of ten years is often the only attendant, the hirer will generally prefer to walk and allow the child to ride. Leaving Hie, we ascend the strikingly wild and picturesque *Norangsdal, which forms the prolongation of the fjord. The road ascends gradually to an upper plateau of the valley with a series of lakes, immediately beyond which the Nebbedal descends to the E., the highest ground between the two valleys being about 940 ft. above the sea-level (comp. p. 132). A little way from Oie the road crosses a ‘Bazlte’, or rising neck of land, and enters a broad basin, containing the hamlet of Slaytstad, from whose inhabitants the sun is shut out during the greater part of the year. A fatiguing path leads hence across Skylstadbrekken (2575 ft.), between. Slogen and Smorskredfjeldet, to the N.E. to Stranden on the Sunelv (p. 185), and thence to the N.W., via Gaa'rden Brunstad to Aure in Sekelven (p. 186). Imposing scenery. The valley is bounded on the S. by the Konnehorn (4200 ft.), the Nonshom, and the Middagshom (4450 ft.), and on the N. by the Smerskredfjetd, culminating in the Skruoen (5285 ft.). The road now quits the inhabited part of the valley and ascends through a stony wilderness ( Ur), under which several moun- tain-torrents disappear. The Norangsdalselv is crossed twice. By the second bridge the scenery is singularly impressive. The moun- tains rise perpendicularly from the valley, and avalanches which have descended from them cover the river at places, forming bridges of snow. Above us rises the precipitous Staven (4960 ft.), under the shade of whose rocks the cattle seek refuge from the midday heat. Farther on, the valley suddenly expands, and we reach the Stavbcrgs'vand, which we pass on the N. side. At its E. end are three szeters (Staoberg-Sastre), where cream may be obtained (Ramme, ‘cream’; K olle, the round wooden vessels in which the. milk is kept). This lake is the first of a series of five, situated one above the other, which the road passes. The Uravand, the Hju'v'vand, and the Hjolstrevand are the following lakes. The road terminates at the saeters, and the bridle-path now skirts the hill to the S., while the river is often lost to view among the rocks and ceases even to be audible. The last lake but one loses most a Hellesylt. TRYGGESTAD. 20. Route. 175 of its water in dry seasons, when it is reduced to a single pool near its outlet. 14 Kil. TFz'beLstad-Hougen (poor quarters, civil people), a gaard 1210 ft. above the sea, lies in the upper part of the *Nebbedal, which is traversed by a good road. The station is sur- rounded by most imposing mountains. To the S. rise the Mara/'- tasnibba (‘afternoon peak’; Me'rafta being a form of Midaften), the Islem'bba (isle,~or vesle, ‘small’), and the huge Kvitegg (‘white ridge’; 5590 ft.). To the N. is the Fibelstadnibben, with its abrupt wall of rock, and to the W.. beyond the Skar, towers the Smm'slcred- f jeld. From the Kvitegg descend several glaciers, the birchwoods below which are still infested with bears. Leaving Fibelstad-Hougen, so called to distinguish it from lndre Hougen on the road to Grodaas (p. 182), we observe to the left, beyond the Fibelstadnibben, the Stetredal and 'l'ryggestad-Nak- ken, and to the right the Blaafietd. The Nebbedal, with its pastures sprinkled with birches, presents a pleasant appearance in summer, but is described by Magdalene Thoresen in her village-tales as a most dismal and dangerous place in winter and spring, when avalanches are frequently precipitated into it. About 6 Kil. from Hougen we reach Tryggestad on the Hornindal and Hellesylt road, whence a retrospective view is obtained of the double-peaked Fibelstadnibben. From this point a good road descends to (11 Kil.) Hellesylt (see p. 183). From Hellesylt to Molde, see R. 21. 21. Overland Route from Bergen to Aalesund and Molde. The ‘overland route” from Bergen to Molde (or to Aalesund), a con- siderable part of which, however, is by water, is far preferable to the direct steamboat-voyage. It passes some of the grandest and wildest glacier and fjord scenery in Norway, all of which lies so near the road that it is easily surveyed from the traveller‘s Stolkjaerre or boat. Until recently the roads were so bad and the stations s0 miserable that this magnificent region was comparatively unknown, but the facilities for traversing it are now so improved that the journey presents no difficulty or privation worthy of mention, and is frequently undertaken by ladies. 360 Kil. (221 Engl. M.). STEAMBOAT from Bergen to Vadheim (141 Kil. or 87 Engl. M.) 2-4 times weekly in 740 hrs. (fares 7 kr. 60, 4 kr. 25 13.). —— ‘Roan from Vadheim to Fm'de z‘ Bredheim, 110 Kil. (25 M.). — Bos'r from Ferde to Red, 13 Kil. or 8 M. (a row of 2‘/.; hrs.). -- RoAD from Red to Utm'ken, 17 Kil. (101/2 M.), from Moldestad over a very steep and high hill, which-is best surmounted on foot. —— BOAT from Utviken to Falet'de, 12 Kil. or ‘ll/2 M. (a row of 2 hrs.). —— ROAD from Faleide to Hellesylt, 45 Kil. (28 M.). -— STEAMBOAT from Hellesylt twice weekly to Sjaholt (51 Kil. or 311/2 M.) in 63/‘ hrs. -— Roan from Sjsholt to Vestnoes, 27 Kil. (17 M.). —— STEAMBOAT from Vestnses to Molde (12 Kil. or 71/2 M.) twice weekly (or by small boat in 2 hrs.). As the scenery between Vadheim and Farde on the Fardefjord is of little interest, while the Dals '0rd and the Fflrdefjord are well worth seeing, the traveller may pre er, if the Ssndfjord steamboat suits, to travel by it as far as Sveen on the Dalsfjord (13 hrs.), ‘or to Fords on the 176 Route 21. VADHEIM._ From Bergen Ferdefjord (22 hrs), and begin his overland journey from one of these points. The Sendfjord steamer usually leaves Bergen on Wednesdays at midnight. —— The distance from Sveen (slow station) to Fo'rde by road, via Langeland, is 22 Kil. only. Travellers by this route from Bergen to Molde should bear in mind that most of the stations are ‘slow’, and that many of them afford neither food nor quarters for the night. It is therefore essential to the success of the journey that a lan should be carefully laid down beforehand, and that Forbud shoul be sent to those of the stations where detentions would otherwise occur. It need hardly be said that a week or a fort- night might very pleasantly be devoted to this route and the excursions which may be made from it, but 4-5 days only are allowed for it by most ‘travellers. In the reverse direction passengers by Tuesday‘s steamer from Aalesund or Sjeholt pass the night at Hellesylt, take the steamer early next morning to Mseraak, and order a small boat to await their return at the mouth of the Geiranger Fjord about 7.30 a.m., thus regaining Helle- sylt about 9 o’clock. Passengers by Saturday’s steamer from Aalesund 0r Sjeholt are conveyed into the Geiranger Fjord the same evening, spend the night at Meeraak, and take the steamer on Sunday morning to Helle- sylt. —- Those who can devote 10-12 days or more to this route should make Faleide, Visnees, or Olderen their headquarters for the magnificent mountain-excursions mentioned below, and Hellesylt their starting-point for a visit to the Norangsfjord (see R. 20) and the mountain-pass at the head of the Geiranger Fjord. The tour thus extended will then embrace far more of Norway’s sublimest scenery than could be seen in any other part of the country in the same time. PLAN OF EXCURSION. This route may easily be accomplished by a good walker in five or six days, if he so times his departure from Bergen as to catch the steamer from Hellesylt to Mseraak. The following outlines may be useful for ordinary travellers with luggage, and especially if ladies are of the party, but they may be modified at pleasure, and they are of course dependent on the steamboat time-tables, with reference to which they are framed. Comp. Communicationer. , , Five Days (odd Vadheim). 1st. On Saturday from Bergen by steamer to Vadhe'im, and drive to Nedre-Vasenden. 2nd. Sunday at .Nedre- Vasenden. (Or on Saturday to Sande only, and on Sunday to Nedre-Vasenden.) 3rd. On Monday to Utm'ken. 4th. On Tuesday to Hellesylt. 5th. On Wednesday by steamer to Sjeholt, drive to Vestnoes, and cross by boat to Molde (or by steamer from Hellesylt to Aalesund). - Or we may proceed by steamer from Hellesylt through the picturesque Norangsfjord and Jerundfiord to Swag), drive thence to Hrsten'vik, and again by steamer to Aalesund. Comp. R Seven Days (m‘d Vadheim). 1st. On Monday morning by steamer from Bergen to Vadhez'm, and drive to Sande. 2nd. On Tuesday to Nedo'e- Vasenden. 3rd. On Wednesday to Utm'ken. 4th. On Thursday to Grodaas. 5th. On Friday to Hellesylt. 6th. On Saturday to Mwraak. 7th. On Sunday to Aalesund or Molde. (Or spend Sunday at Sjaholt). , ' Four Days (m'd Sveen on the Dalsfjord). 1st. On Wednesday at mid- night from Bergen to Sveen, and drive on Thursday to Nedre-Vasenden. 2nd. On Friday to Faleide. 3rd. On Saturday to Hellesylt and Maaraak. 4th. On Sunday to Aalesund or Molde. (Or spend Sunday at Sjeholt, as above.) — 0r: —- On Wednesday night by the same steamer to Fm'de on the Fm'defjord. 2nd. To Utv'iken. 3rd. To Moeraak. 4th. To Aalesund or Molde. [In the reverse direction: 1. On Thursday from Molde to Sjeholt. 2. On Friday to Hellesylt. 3. On Saturday visit Gez'rangerFjord (p. 183) by steamer; return part of the way by rowing-boat to Hellesylt, and proceed to Utm'ken. 4. On Sunday to Nedre-Vasenden. 5. On Monday to Sande. 6. On Tues- day by steamer to Vadhe'im and thence by the evening steamer to Bergen or Loerdalsaren. -- Or: —— 1. On Monday to Sjerholt. 2. On Tuesday to Hellesylt. 3. On Wednesday to Man-dale, Hellesylt, and Utviken. 4. On Thurs- day to Farde. 5. On Friday to Vadhea'm'and thence by steamer to Bergen.) 7 As the only fast stations on this route between Vadheim and Faleide are'T'errde 'on the Ferdefjorfl '(p. 178), and Ferde on ‘the Bredheimsvand to Molde. SANDE. 21. Route. 177 (p. 180), the traveller should send Forbud (p. xxi) to all the slow stations where detentions would otherwise occur. This may be done by post-cards addressed to each ‘Skydsskafi‘er’, stating the day and hour of the travel- ler‘s expected arrival and the number of horses desired. Meals may also be ordered beforehand in this manner. For the first day’s journey from Bergen (or Molde) Forbud should be sent two days in advance, but for the other days it is enough to send it on the evening before. Horses should also be ordered at once for the next morning at the station where the night is passed. The stations between Faleide and Hellesylt are all fast, but Hellesylt (p. 183) itself is slow. Between Hellesylt and Molde the only fast stations are Sjeholt and Ellingsgaard (p. 186). Carriages, 'how- ever, can usually be obtained without delay at Hellesylt, Vestnees, and other steamboat-stations. — Tariff for ‘skyds‘, see pp. xxii, xxiii. The only good INNS are at Vadheim, Sande, Ferde on the Ferdefjord, Nedre-Vasenden, Utm'ken, Faleide. Grodaas, Hellesylt, Mreraak, and Bjeholt. Tolerable quarters at Red (p. 180). The best descriptions of the scenery on this fine route are given in Finn"s Turistbref can on Resa i Norge Sommaren 1875 (Stockholm, 1876), Daae‘s Norske Bygdesagn (Christiania, 1872), Peder Fyllz'ng"s Folksagn (see p. 172), and Magdalene Thoresen’s Billeder fra Vestkysten af Norge (Copen- hagen, 1872). The steamboat voyage from Bergen to Vadheim takes 7-10 hrs., see pp. 112, 111. Vadheim (slow station; *Inn, by the pier, unpretending) is prettily situated at the head of a northern bay of the Sognefjord (see p. 111). To the W. is a waterfall with a manufactory, above which rises the Nore'viksheia. Comp. the Map, p. 96. Between Vadheim and the Nordfjord the road skirts the W. side of the imposing mountains which are covered by the im- mense Jostedalsbrae (p. 102), the largest glacier in Norway, whence a number of offshoots descend to the vicinity of dark green fjords and lakes. —— On leaving Vadheim we at first gradually ascend the Vadheimsdal, which is enclosed by walls of rock 1500-2000 ft. in height. The road threads its way between the river and the cliffs, often passing over large fields of debris (Ur). The first gaard, sit- uated on the left, is the Ytre Dalm, which is somewhat exposed to danger from avalanches. The sun is visible here in winter only for a very short time. The road next ascends between the D'regge- bom'p on the right and the Fagersletnip on the left. On a rocky height to the left lie the gaards of Dreggebo, beyond which the road returns to the left bank of the river. It then skirts the dark Yxlandvand (430 ft.), and crosses to the W. side of the valley. To the E., on the top of a rocky hill, lies the hamlet of Yzrland. We then proceed along the Upper Yrla'ndvand and reach the cul— minating point of the road near the gaards of Aaberge (512 ft.), situated to the right, on the bank of a small lake in a basin sur- rounded by mountains. To the N. rises the Kva'mshesi 178). The rest of the route through the wooded Aabe-rgedal is monotonous. Passing Gaarden Lofald on the right and the parsonage of that name on ‘the left, we cross the Gala or Ho'lmedalsel'v, and reach —— 15 Kil. Sande (*Sivertsen’s Inn, comfortable), in the Indre Holmedal, ‘ with a church and several gaards. To the S. rises the BAEDEKER‘S Norway and Sweden. 2nd Edit. 12 ‘178 Route 21. FBRDE. From Bergen Dreggebonip (see above), adjoining which are the Hegehai (2850 ft.) and the Stensmtfjeld (2470 ft.). To the N.W. towers the majestic Kcandalsfjeld (3325 ft.). A pleasant WALK may be taken from Sande to (6 Kil.) Horsevik, on the Viksvand (525 ft.), which affords tolerable fishing. On an island near the N. bank is the church of Hcestad. To the left rises the Kvandalsfjeld. Horsevik lies about 10 Kil. (6 Engl. M.) from Vik, at the N.E. end of the lake, whither we may proceed by boat. From Vik a road leads through the Haukedal to (8 Kil.) Mostadhaug on the Haukedalsvand, whence we row to Rerm'k, situated on the W. bank, 3-4 Kil. to the N. A cart-track leads hence to Holsen and along the Holsenvand to (16 Kil.) Mo (p. 179). This route is more interesting and picturesque than the one described below, but is recommended to active walkers only. On the Viksvand, nearly opposite Vik (see above), at the entrance of the Eldal, lies Eldalsosen, whence a route leads through the valley to Hof, Mjell, and Svoeren (see p. 111). Unless the traveller has ordered horses by Forbud, he should arrange with the driver at Sande to go on with the same horses all the way to Ferde. Otherwise he will probably undergo a detention of several hours at Langeland. Travellers in the opposite direction are generally permitted by the station-master at Ferde to go on without change of horses, especially when there is only .one pas- senger in a carriole. On leaving Sande the road passes the church on the left, and ascends rapidly to the right to Gaarden Tunvald at the base of the Tunvaldfjetd. Fine retrospect. The hilly road then passes the Lundsgmnen on the right and reaches a height commanding a view of the Dalsfjord (‘Sendfjord’) mountains (p. 165; in the distance the Lolcelandshest, nearer the Koamshest), and of the smiling basin of Lundebygd at our feet. Beyond this basin we reach Gaarden Sicitbred, on the moorland banks of the Skilbreds- vand, whence we enjoy an unimpeded view of the Kvamshest (p. 165) and Lillehest (2985 ft.), with the snow-field between them. In clear weather these mountains are reflected in the lake. We then pass several pleasant gaards, and reach —— 11 Kil. (pay for 14) Langeland (where little is to be had except beer), situated at the S. end of a lake about 4 Kil. in length, the hilly W. bank of which our road traverses, while the road to Sveen (p. 165) descends to the left. Our road passes the saeters of Espetand and Ha/‘stad, at the N. end of the lake, and reaches its highest point (about1150 ft.), commanding a fine view of the valley of Ferde and the imposing mountains at the head of the Angedat (to the N Only a small triangular portion of the Ferdefjord is visible. The hilly road next descends past the saeters of ‘Preste and Halbrand, skirts the Solheimsheia on the left, passes the Halbrandsfos on the right, and reaches -— 11 Kil. 'i-Ferde or Hafstad(*1nn), situated 1 Engl. M. from the head of the Ferdefjo-rd (steamers on the fjord, see p. 156). On the opposite side of the Jotsterelv, which is here crossed by a large bridge, are the Telegraph Office and the Church, the latter situated to Molde. NEDRE VASENDEN. 21. Route. 179 on an ancient moraine. To the N. rises the Fardem'p (2795 ft.), to the E. the Viefjetd (2210 ft.) and the mountains round the Holsen/vand, and to the S.W. the Solheimsheia (1285 ft.). A plea— sant walk may be taken along the J'elsterelv to the pier onthe fjord, of which little is seen from this point. Another may be taken to the (1/2 hr.) Halb'randsfos, on the way to Langeland (see above). On leaving Ferde we obtain a view to the left of the Angedal, at the head of which rise the Sand/field (4100 ft.) and the Rupe- fjelde (4190 ft.). Our road traverses the well-cultivated valley of the Jalsterelv, and passes the Vie/field on the left. Near the gaards of Brutand, which lies on an alluvial terrace, the stream forms the pretty Brulandsfos. The road then crosses the long Fars'undebro, at the end of the clear Movatten, from which the stream issues, and skirts its N. bank. A fine view is enjoyed here of the Sand- datsfield to the N.E., the Hal'vgjwrde to the E.,‘and the Aasen- fjeld to the S., while in the distance appear several offshoots ofthe Jostedalsbroe. Beyond the Movatten we pass on the right the agri— cultural school (Landbrugsskole) of M0. A few minutes farther on is the fine Huldrefos, in the midst of park-like scenery. After 20 min. drive through a solitary pine-forest we pass on the right the road to Holsen and Haukedal, mentioned at p. 178. The culti- vation decreases as the road ascends. At the gaard of Flaata we obtain a fine view of the Jygrafield to the N. and the Sanddalsfjeld to the S. of the Jetstervand, at the W. end of which lies -- 19 Kil. Nedre Vasenden (good quarters), the ‘lower end of the water’. The traveller should here provide himself with provisions, as nothing else can be obtained before Red. The two following stations are also ‘slow’, so that it is advisable to take the same horses on to Ferde (see below). The journey along the Jelstervand by boat is pleasant but rather long. Before continuing this journey travellers should take a walk across the bridge over the Jelster- elv, which here forms some fine rapids. The road now runs along the N. bank of the pretty *Jelster— vand (670 ft.), which is about 14 Engl. M. in length from E. to W. 0n the N. side it is bounded by the Jygrafjcld, and on the S. by the Sanddalsfield, the Klana, the Orlcen, and the Sadeleggen. On the S. side , which is called by the natives the ‘Nordside’ on account of its facing the N., appear several stretches of the Joste- dalsbrze, and at the head of the Kjesnaesfjord, which diverges to the S.E., is the blueish-green Glacier of Lands, descending from the N. Both banks of the lake are studded with gaards, most of them on the ‘Solside’. The lake and the stream flowing out of it contain excellent trout. The road skirts the base of the Jygrafjeld and reaches the gaards of Sviddat, at the mouth of the Bergsdal. It then traverses the fertile Aalhusbygd, passing the entrances of the Nedrebodal and B'vfrebodal, skirts the Bjersa'tfield (3310 ft.), and crosses the Aardalselv. _ ~ ' 12 " 180 Route 21 . BREDHEIMSVAND. From Bergen 1.5 Kil. Aardal (poor station; in the house a ‘Ljor’, p. 173), commanding a fine view of the gaards of Myklebostad. -— A little beyond Aardal we pass the new church of Helgheim , whence we have an admirable view of the Kjesntes/jord, with the Bjerga (5510 ft.) on the N. and the Seknesandnipa (4970 ft.) on the S. 8 Kil. Here Vasenden or Skei, a poor station at the ‘upper end of the water’. Travellers in the reverse direction who fail in pro- curing horses here should proceed by boat instead of on foot. The road now surmounts a small watershed and ‘then leads to the N. through a broad valley, containing the Fegleocmd and the Slcred'oand, the amount of water in which varies considerably. To the E. the Fosheimfos descends from the Bjerga (see above). The scenery becomes really fine when we reach the Bolsazte'r'va-nd, be- yond which lie the Stardal and ‘several glaciers of the Jostedalsbrae. PEDESTRIANS who are willing to forego a visit to the Bredheimsvand may proceed from Skei or Gaard Bolst to the E., through the Stardal, to Aamot, and walk thence (with a guide, 4 kr.) across the Oldenskar (6130 ft.) to Rusteen, at the end of the Oldenvand (p. 191; in all a full and rather fatiguing day’s walk). The beautiful but hilly road now follows the bank of the Stor- elv and then skirts the small Paulsvand. The Slcjorta (4090 ft.) is here conspicuous to the W. To the right, shortly before reach- ing Ferde, we pass the precipitous Kupenaaoa, the valley below which is strewn with huge blocks of rock. 8 Kil. (pay for 11) #Ferde, a poor hamlet, lies near the S. end of the *Bredheimsvand, or Breumsuand (200 ft.; 900 ft. deep), here called the Ferde/jjord, a magnificent lake about 10 Engl. M. in length, enclosed by imposing mountains. Oomp. the Maps, pp. 96, 166. -— The road terminates here, at a lofty old moraine, and we embark in a rowing-boat, in which we skirt the E. bank of the lake. To the left rises the precipitous Skjorta, with the Gamle- datsfos, to the right the dizzy heights of the Soenskenipa (4770 ft.). The Myktandsdal is next passed on the left, and the Aardal on the right. To the N., in the background, rises the Duneggen (3650 ft.). Farther on the Slearstenfield rises to the left. Beyond this point is the Nrrsdal, to the left, with several gaards. Shortly before reach- ing Red we pass the mouth of the Vadtedalselo, and see several ofi'shoots of the Jostedalsbrae at the head of the Bredheimsdal. 12 Kil. Red (tolerable quarters), a hamlet picturesquely situ- ated on: the E. bank of the Bredheimsvand, near the church of Bredheim. Horses are frequently engaged here for the wholejour- neyv to Utviken, in order to savethe trouble of changing again at Moldestad. As the station-master sometimes objects to this, it is advisable to send the order by Forbud. The ‘landskyds-station’ is on thehill to the left, a little beyond the hamlet; the ‘baadskyds- station’ is close to Red, at the footjof the hill. ‘ . ‘At the NW. end of the lake, which is unattractive beyond this point, lies Vasenden, whence a road crosses the Eid (255 ft.) to Sandene on the Gloppenfjord (p. 167). ~ ' to Molde. FALEIDE. 21. Route. 181 The road to Utviken gradually ascends the N. side of the fertile Bredheimdal, passing several pleasant gaards. Beyond Flow a road on the right diverges to the Bergemsvand. . 6 Kil. Moldestad, a group of farms about 500 ft. above the lake, with a fine view of the valley and the Jostedalsbrte. A road to the Sanddalsvand here branches off to the E. -— Between Molde- stad and Utviken our road crossesa very steep hill, about 2200 ft. in height, and most travellers will prefer walking the greater part of the way (11 Kil.). The pony-carts usually take about 3 hrs. to cross thehill, while a good walker will easily cross it in 2hrs.; but those who walk should insist on being preceded by the carts and their attendants, who, if left to themselves, are apt to be uncon- scionably slow. After walking for about 3/4 hr. we obtain a strik- ing view of the whole Bredheimsbygd, the large valleys to the E. and S., and the Bredheimsvand. The most conspicuous moun— tains are: the G jetenyken (5825 ft.), with its huge glaciers, towering above the Sanddalsvand to the E.; the Vera and the pointed Eggem'bba to the S., between the Sanddalsvand and the Bergems- vand; to the W., the Raadfjeld; to the S.W., the Skarstenfiel-d, overshadowing the Bredheimsvand. On reaching the top of the hill we find ourselves in a desolate mountain-plateau (2100ft.), strewn with blocks of rock brought down by the glaciers and with small moorland ponds. The Ska'rstenfjeld, with its sharply defined outline and large ‘botn’, is now very conspicuous the S.W. In about 1 hr. we reach the N. margin of the plateau, whence we obtain a beautiful *View of the Invikfjord, and of the Laudals- tinder, Hornindalsrokken (p. 183), and other mountains to the N. The road now descends rapidly, commanding occasional views of the Jostedalsbrm, to (3/4 hr.) — . 11 Kil. (pay for 14) Verlo z'Utviken (*Loen’s Inn), prettily situated on the Inoz'kfjord. Travellers proceeding to the S. should take provisions for the journey to Nedre-Vasenden. A steamboat plies from Utviken to Faleide once weekly in 1% hr. If the steamer does not suit we take a rowing-boat (with 2 men, 21/4 kr.). On starting we see the Slevbergfjeld with several gaards to the left, at the foot of which is the breeding-place of a colony of Ska'r've’rs, a kind'of gull. In a bay to the right lie the church and hamlet of Indviken. By Indviken opens the wild Prazstedal, enclosed by the Skarstenfjeld on the N. and the Star- l'augpik (2270 ft.) on the S. We then skirt the promontory of Hilde- halsen, and reach - 11 Kil. {Faleide (*Tenden’s Inn, often crowded in summer, English spoken; several good guides here), pleasantly situated on the N. bank of the fjord, and called at once weekly by the Bergen and Nordfjord steamers. Faleide is the best starting-point for ex— cursions to the three glacier-valleys of Olden, Loen, and Stryn (R. 22). Towards the E. the view is bounded by a magnificent 182 Route 21. GRODAAS. From Bergen background of mountains: to the left the serrated Aarheimsfjeld (‘2020 ft.), to the right of which rise the huge Skaalan (6355 ft.) in the distance, and the Auflemfjeld (5090 ft.), somewhat nearer; to the S. is the Algjelfield (2780 ft.), overtopped by the Skarsten- fjeld (5385 ft.). Shorter EXCURSIONS may be made to the N. to Gaarden Langesoeter (about 820 ft.); to the E., along the bank of the lake, to Gaarden Som-ve- stad, which is fitted up in an old-fashioned style; by boat to Indrz'ken and thence on foot to the Prazstedal (see above); by boat in 1% hr. to Rake and thence to the top of the OPheimsfjeZd (see p. 188). If the inn at Faleide is full, the traveller may proceed to Vis- nazs (Inn), 6 Kil. farther up , and the last steamboat-station; or he may row across the fjord to (14 Kil.) Olderen (p. 190). The road from Faleide to Hellesylt at first ascends rapidly to a height of 800 ft. above the sea, commanding fine retrospective views of the fjord and the Skarstenfjeld (p. 181). It then descends through a somewhat uninteresting wooded district, passing the gaards of Langesmter, Flore, and Sind're, to the Kjosbunden, the S.E. arm of the Hornindalsvand. In descending we have frequent views of the Holmeficld to the W., the Gulekop to the N., etc. 12 Kil. (pay for 17) TKjos (840 ft.). The next stage, from Kjos to Grodaas, is a very hilly one and is better performed by water. The Homindalsvand is the geological prolongation of the Eids- fjord (p. 166), 185 ft. above the level _of the sea and 1500 ft. in depth. From Vedvik (p. 166) to Grodaas it is 16 Engl. M. in length. To the N., opposite the mouth of the Kjosbunden, opens the Oterdal, extending between the Snetuen on the left and the Homanakken on the right. 6 Kil. (pay for 8) '1‘ Grodaas. —- Ho'rELs: *Raftevold’s 11m, the first house to the left; Navelsaker’s Inn, adjacent. The latter is not recom- mended, as travellers are sometimes detained on the pretext that no horses can be procured. In the event of this happening the traveller should apply to Hr. Raftevold and enter a complaint in the Dagbog or Skydsbog. The Skydsskafler lives a little beyond the two inns. Grodaas is charmingly situated at the E. end of the Hornin- dalsvand, near the church of Homindal, which we pass in con- tinuin g our journey. - From Hornindal a path crosses the Kvs'ven (2780 ft.) to (11-5 hrs.) the skyds-station Kaldvatn, whence we may drive towards the E. to (20Kil.) Bjerke on the Jerundfiord (p. 173), or to the W. to Fame on the Auste— jfjord, on which a boat may be taken to (18 Kil.) Volden (p. 169). From Grodaas the road ascends the Hornindal, passing several pleasant gaards, the Danefos , and the entrance to the Hjortdal. Farther up the valley expands and is bounded on both sides by snow-clad mountains. On the right rise the Gulekop, the Seelje- swterhom (5490 ft.), and the Muls'vorhorn; to the left, the Brwkeg and Lilledalseg. Below the Seeljesaeterhorn opens the Knudsdal. 8-Kil. (pay for 11) 'l-Indre Hougen (no accommodation). Tra- vellers on their way to the N. do not usually stop at the next station ~-,--~ ‘ v - ' to Molde. HELLESYLT. 21. Route. 183 6 Kil. -1- K jelstadli (1390 ft.), another very poor place , while those proceeding towards the 8. change horses at Kjelstadli, but are not required to change again at Hougen. From Kjelstadli the *Hornindalsrokken (5010ft.; Rok, ‘distafl“), an ap- parently inaccessible pinnacle of rock , commanding a. magnificent view of the Langefjeld to the E. and the Sgndmflre mountains to the N., may be ascended in 5-6 hrs. (there and back, 10hrs.). The traveller drives for 2 hrs. up the Hornindal, ascends by a path through birch-wood, and fin- all)r has a steep climb to the top. Beyond Kjelstadli We enter another grand mountainous region. To the left opens the valley of Kjelstad, with the gaard of the same name and several glaciers; to the right the Rerhusdal. The road descends to Tronstad (1130 ft.), formerly a station, a little to the N. of which, by T'ryggestad, opens the Nebbeda-l (p. 175). The road descends along the left bank of the Sundalselv, the valley of which soon contracts to a profound ravine. To the left opens the Mulskeddal. Splendid view of the Sunelvsfjord and its mountains. The road crosses the stream, passes the church of Sunelven, and reaches — 13 Kil. Hellesylt (*Jergen Tryggestad’s Inn; the landlord speaks English), with the church of Sunelven, grandly situated at the head of the Sunelvfjord, an arm of the Storfjord. Aval- anches (Sneskred) often fall here in winter. Jergen Tryggestad is the tenant of the Helsetvand, 31/2 Engl. M. distant, which affords good fishing. From Hellesylt a pleasant EXCURSION of 14 hrs. (there and back) may be made to the Nebbedal and the Norangsfjo'rd (p. 173). We drive to Fibelstad-Hougen (p. 175) in 1% hr. and walk or ride thence to Eie (p. 173) in 3-31/2 hrs. From Q'ie we row as far as the Jm'undfjord and then return (21/2-3 hrs.). Steamboats ply from Hellesylt twice weekly to Maeraak, Sje- holt, and Aalesund. If the steamer does not suit, the traveller should row from Hellesylt to Maeraak, about 12 Engl. M. (in 3-4 hrs.). About 3 Kil. to the N. of Hellesylt, on the E. side of the Sun- elvfjord, diverges the **Geira.nger Fjord, one of the most magni- ficent fjords in Norway, which should on no account be missed. At the entrance to it are the Nokltenebfjeld (Neb, ‘beak’), on the right, and Gaarden Madm'k on the left. In winter when the avalanches descend from the Stabbefonn, above the Nokkeneb, the windows at Madvik are frequently broken by the concussion. On the right, farther up the fjord, rises Lysurnwbbet, and on the left is the Langflaafjeld, both upwards of 4000 ft. in height. We next ob— serve the isolated Grauthorn, beyond which the fjord contracts. On the N. (left) side, near Gaarden Kni‘vsflaa, are the graceful Knivsflaafossene or ‘Seven Sister Waterfalls’, formed by the Knivs- elv, and falling over a perpendicular cliff into the fjord. On the S. bank lies Gaarden Skaggeflaa, in an apparently inaccessible site, about 1600 ft. above the fjord, and reached by‘ a precipitous and dizzy path. Near the gaard is thetSlcaggeflaafos or Gjeitfos. In the vicinity is a deep ravine with the Jutulbro (‘giant bridge’). 184 Route 21. MERAAK. From Bergen In 1880 an avalanche descended here with such violence as to hurl some of the uprooted pine-trees to the opposite side of the fjord. On both sides of the fjord are seen numerous small water- falls, some of which descend in the form of spray or mist, betray- ing their existence only by the disturbed state of the water into which they fall. Others descend from overhanging cliffs in a veil- like form, and are best seen from one side. In cloudy weather, when the tops of the mountains are shrouded in vapour, the water- falls seem to fall directly from the clouds. Shortly before reaching Maeraak we pass several curious rocks, assuming the shapes of grotesque profiles. To the left are the veil-like Aafjeldfos and the gaard of Grande (see below). Fine view of the mountain-back- ground towards the E. At the head of the fjord, about 121/2 Engl. M. from Hellesylt, lies ~— Maeraak or Merok (*Martin Merolc’s Inn, moderate), pictures- quely situated. The steamboat generally stops here for the night. Maeraak commands a view of a very small part of the fjord only, but the Storeira, 5 min. higher, enjoys a beautiful and extensive prospect. An interesting excursion may be taken hence to the Storsaeterfos (2000 ft. above the sea-level, about 3 hrs. there and back, a stiff climb; guide 1-2 kr.). In the background, behind Meeraak, rises the Holencebba, the base of which is passed by the path to Grjotlz'd (p. 163) and Skeaker (p. 161) in the Gudbrandsdal. This magnificent route should if possible be visited from Maeraak (on foot or on horseback) as far as the ‘Fjeldstue‘ or refuge-hut on the Staobmekkene (10-12 hrs. there and back). Grande, a gaard on the N. bank of the fjord, about 3 Kil. from Maeraak, is the starting-point of an exceedingly grand mountain route to Ytredal (20 Kil.). The path ascends, very steeply at first, to Eide, about halfway, from which a carriage-road descends through a beautiful valley to the Norddalsfjord. From Ytredal to Sylte (see below) a row of 1% hr. -- Excursions may also be made to Hellesylt (p. 183), Sjeholt (p. 185), and the Tafiord (p. 185). The steamer returns from Maeraak to the Sunelvfjord, which is bounded on the W. by the Aakernazsfield, and on the E. by the Nonsfield and the Snuhorn. On the W. bank, opposite the en- trance to the Geirangerfjord, lies Ljeen, whence an old post-road ascends the Ljeenbakker (2600 ft.) in zigzags. On the E. bank’ are several gaards. Farther on the steamer again turns to the E. into the Norddalsfiord, an arm of the Storfjord, where it passes St. Olaf's Snushorn, a grotesquely-shaped cliff, and touches at Ytredal, Belling, with‘ the Norddalskirke, and Syltc (Gunnar Gre- ningsaater’s Inn), on the N. bank. A curious vein of light quartz here is called St. Olaf’s Slange or Syltormon. To the E. rises the lofty Eggwraxlen. -— From this point onwards the route may be traced on the Map at p. 192. FROM SYLTE TO VEBLUNGSNIES AND AAK. This interesting route usu- ally takes 1% day, but may be accomplished in 1 day if the traveller drive to Langdal. The road at first ascends the old moraine of Lang- ,bo'elcken. At the top of the hill 'is a cross in memory of St. Olaf, who in 1028 fled from Sylte to Lesje in the Gudbrandsdal. The road then to Molde. sJeHoLT. 21. Route. 185 ascends the Valdal, passing several pleasant gaards, which are much in vogue as summer-quarters among the citizens of Aalesund. At Rem, the first large gaard, carrioles and horses may be obtained. Beyond Rem we cross the wide stony tract of Skjwrswrden and pass the gaard of Growing on the right. About 5-6 hrs. after leaving Sylte pedestrians reach (24 Kil.) Gaarden Langdal, where good entertainment and also, if desired, quarters for the night are obtainable. The road then ascends past the uppermost saeters of the Valdal to the top of the pass, beyond which a footpath (guide necessary) crosses the Stegafjeld , skirting several small lakes. It then descends the Slega-ne in innumerable windings and passes the Isterfos, which commands a fine view of the Isterdalsfjeld to the left and the W. side of the T'rolltt'nder (p. 125) to the right. In 8-10 hrs. after passing Langdal we reach Veblungsnoes or Aak (see pp. 125, 126). A visit may also be paid from Sylte to the imposing *Tafjord, the easternmost bay of the Norddalsfjord, whence paths rarely frequented lead to Gr'jotltd (p. 163) and to Sluefloten (p. 123). The Tafjord, though inferior to the Geiranger, also boasts of very grand scenery. After leaving Sylte we observe the solitary farm of Kaste on the hill to the right. On the left is a fine waterfall; and on the same side, farther on, is the Mulclals- fos, descending from the inhabited Muldal. The steamer steers through a strait into a kind of amphitheatre. A waterfall on the right rebounds from a projecting rock, which divides it into two parts. In the back- ground is the village of Tafjord, on the hill above which, to the right, are iron-mines belonging to an English company. Lofty snow-mountains peer over the banks of the fjord in every direction. The steamer now continues its western course, and touches at ‘Bygden’ Linge, with its picturesque gaards, and at the Liabygd. A fine view is obtained as far as Hellesylt to the S., and the mountains of the Geiranger Fjord become particularly conspicuous. The steamer then crosses to Stranden or Langlo-Stranden (see also p. 174), with the church of Slyngstad, on the S. bank. The scenery here presents a pleasing combination of softness and gran- deur. In the background rises the Hemdalshom. The fjord now assumes the name of Slyngsfjord. The steamer steers round the projecting Stordalsnazs or Holman, and touches at the gaards of Hove and Vinje, at the entrance to the pictur- esque Stordal. To the S.W. rises the lofty, snow-clad Storeggen. Our course now continues to the N., passing on the left the huge Ramstadhom, the Sjaoikshome, and the Grebstadhorn. On the N. bank lie the gaards of Vagsvik, Vestre, and Amolam. On the S. band are Ramstad, whence a carriage-road leads to (11 Kil.) Aure (p. 186), and the steamboat-station of Sjevik. The steamer then rounds the Gausnazs, and enters a bay, at the end of which lies-— 'I'Sjerholt (*Abrahamsen’s Hotel; *Rasmussen’s Hotel and Station Q'rslcog, English spoken, ‘pens.’ 4-5 kr.), charmingly situated at the S.E. base of the Lifjeld. To the N.E. rises the Snaufjeld, and to the S. the snow-capped Storhom. On the opposite bank of the stream which here enters the fjord is the‘ church of Zrskog. WALKS. Towards the W. to the (II/2 hr.) ‘Laksvarpe‘ (called ‘Gilge‘ in the Sogn district), or apparatus for catching salmon, with white boards to attract the fish. —— o the .Grskogdal, which contains a pretty waterfall. —- To reach the top of the Lifield we ascend the Solnardalfor 1 hr., and then climb to the left for 1/2 hr. The S. slope of the Litjeld is called Apalswtfjeld, where there is a deserted iron-mine, from which n tramway descends to the fjord, 186 Route 21. VESTNZES. FROM SJeHoLr 'ro AALESUND (38 Kil.. or ‘24 Engl. M.), we may proceed either by the road via (13 Kil.) ~f-Flaatc and (13 Kil.) Radsazt, or by the steamboat. The latter, which plies several times a week and takes 4 hrs. to the voyage, first touches at Langskibse, on the N. bank of the fjord, which is here called the Nordfiord (not to be confounded with the Nordfjord mentioned at p. 166). The next station is Aure in Sykelven, charmingly situated on .a S. bay of the fjord in the midst of imposing scenery (comp. p. 174), and often crowded in summer with visitors from Aalesund. In the background rises the pointed Stremshom (3300 ft.). We next pass, on the left, Tusoik, which also affords accommodation to summer visitors. Passing the Jerundfiord (p. 173) on the left, the steamer steers to the N.W., between the Sula on the left and the Oksene on the right, and soon reaches the beautifully situated town of Aalesund (p. 169). FRoM SJeHoL'r TO MOLDE. The road at first gradually ascends through the pretty Hrskogdal to a moorland plateau, in which lies a small lake. The traveller will here notice numerous ‘Loer’, or small huts for containing the hay; the long poles are for marking the way in winter. We then cross the boundary between the Ber- gensstift and the Throndhjemsstz'ft, and descend into the Skorgedal. 15 Kil. qtEllingsgaard (575 ft. ; no accommodation). The sce- nery now becomes more attractive. To the right rise the Spa-Oofjeld and the Jwge'rhom; to the left the Skortind. The road now skirts the W. bank of the beautiful Tresfjord, passing several gaards, crosses the mouth of the narrow Misfjo'rd, and reaches -— 11 Kil. Vestnws (*lnn), a scattered village with a church, beautifully situated near the Moldefjord. Steamboats three times weekly to Molde and to Veblungsnaes (p. 126). If the steamer does not suit, we cross the fjord by boat in 21,/2-3 hrs. to (13 Kil.) — Molde, see p. 192. 22. From Faleide to the Valleys of Stryn, Loan, and Olden. An excursion from Faleide and back to any one of these three valleys requires 10-12 hrs , and conducts the traveller through perhaps grander and more picturesque mountain and glacier scenery than is to be seen else- where in Norway, except in the Nordland. Those who can only visit one of the valleys should choose the Loendal, which, as the finest, should in any case be kept to the last. Those who prefer not to return to Faleide for the night will find good quarters only at Visnoes and Olderen. To cross the fjord two men and a good-sized boat are necessary. The ‘Rors- karle’, who receive 6 kr. each for a single excursion and 5 kr. per diem extra if a night is spent on the way, act as guides; but in the actual glacier-climbing they are of comparatively little service. They provide their own food; the traveller must also take with him his own pro- visions from Faleide, ViSntBB, or ()lderen, as in the valleys only milk and bread can be obtained. Faleide (p. 181) lies on the N., bank of the Invikfjord, the STRYNDAL. 22. Route. 187 innermost branch of the Nordfjord. From the E. end of the In- vikfjord the three valleys Stryndal, Loendal, and Oldendal extend into the heart of the Norwegian Fjeld, and to the Jostedalsbra: (p. 102). The greater part of the floor of each of these valleys is occupied by a lake, 7-10 Engl. M. in length, formed by an ancient moraine-formation, which separates it from the fjord and is called the Eid. At the upper end of the valleys the glaciers, extending from the higher snow-fields of the J ostedalsbree, descend so far that from the middle of the lake they seem actually to reach its banks. All three lakes, but especially those in the Oldendal and Loendal, are enclosed by immense rocky walls 4-5000 ft. high, over which rise mountain-peaks to the height of 6500 ft. On all sides hang huge glaciers, some ending abruptly in precipitous walls of rock, over the brink of which are precipitated large masses of ice detached from the main body. This phenomenon is known as the ‘calving’ of the glaciers. From the numerous fissures in the rocky wall glacier-streams fall into the lakes, tingeing with a milky hue the green waters below. At the mouths of many of these streams are situated gaards or swters, occupied only at night, .the owners com- ing by boat in the evening to milk their cattle, and returning in the morning to their farms. Higher up the valley, however, the saeters are often permanently inhabited. The people are still very primitive and somewhat dirty. Their salutation on meeting a pas— ser-by is Godt Mot (Made); to each other when working, Signe Arbeidet (Gud vet signe A'rbeidet). When the traveller finds a gaard with no one within, he lights a fire for himself, takes what milk and bread he requires (of the former there is always an abundance), and leaves a remuneration on the window-sill (Fen-ste‘rkarmen). I. EXCURSION TO THE STRYNDAL: to the end of the Opstryn- vand 6 hrs., to the Gredungsbrae 8 hrs. Starting from Faleide in a rowing-boat we pass the gaards of Berg and Lunde, enjoying a view, to the right, of the Aarheims- fjeld and of the Grytefjeld, farther to the N. To the right is the steamboat-station of Visnws (p. 167); to the left, the large gaard of Vila, belonging to the Lendsmand. After a journey of 11/2 hr. we leave the boat (retaining the rowers) at the skyds-station of -— Toning (Inn), whence a picturesque road leads along the N. bank of the Strynelv, past Ytre Eide, the church of Nedstryn, and the gaards of Gjerven and Here Eide, to the Opstrynvand (80 ft.). This lake, which is about 10 Engl. M. in length, is at first narrow, but afterwards, at Lindvik, expands into a beautiful sheet of water. We obtain a boat here (40 0.), which is manned by the rowers brought from Faleide, and proceed to traverse the lake. We first pass, on the left, the gaards of Tenden, Sunde, and Eikences, and on the right, those of Ytre and Indre Lunde. We then skirt a pro- jecting headland, and observe the gaards of Dispen, Meland, and Bergstad. When we reach the broader part of the Opstrynvand we 188 Route 22. ERDAL. Excursions see to the N.. the Marshydna (5410 ft.), farther on, the Flofjeld (5140 ft.), with the Rindalshorn (5950 ft.) behind it, and the high- lying gaards of Fto (770 ft.) in front. To the right are the gaards of Holmevik, granules, and Tunold, and higher up those of Brwkke and Aaning, above which towers the Bmalckefjeld. From this point we proceed in a S.E. direction to the Church of Opstryn, above which, to the S.W., appears the Fosnazsbrae, descending from the Skaatan (see below). On the other side we have a view of the Gtoms- dot and Videdal, with the Glomnceseggen and the Midtstelshydna rising between them. At the mouth of the Videdal lies Hjelte. Travellers who wish to visit Grjotlid or Mork in the Gndbrandsdal, land on the E. bank near Hjelle, whence the road to Grjotlid (p. 1633) leads through the Videdal. The road to Mork (p. 162) diverges to the right, near the gaard of Gran and leads through the Sandal and across the Kamphamre. To the right appear the gaards of Fosnms and Dorreflot, and then the entrance to the sombre Erdal, at the upper end of which the Gredungsbrae is visible. In front, to the right, is the Tinde- fjeldsb'raz with the Tavsehydna, and to the left, the Ryghydna (5325 ft.) and the Sceter/‘Ijeld (6200 ft.), the whole forming a most imposing picture of mountain and glacier scenery. ' After a row of 3 hrs. we land (6 hrs. from Faleide) at the gaard of Mark or Grenfur, cross the Erdela to the gaard of Erdal, and ascend the *Erdal, via Berge and Tjazthaug, to Gaarden Gredung (30-40 min.; tolerable quarters). Proceeding thence, with a view of the glacier that stretches down between the Strynskaupen on the left and the Skaatfjetd on the right, we arrive in 2-21/2 hrs. at the loftily-situated Gredungssazter, at the foot of the flssured *G're- dungsb'raz 2330 ft.), past which leads the route to the Jostedal (see p. 104 . An excursion from the Gredungssecter over the Jostedalsbraa to the Lodalskaupe (p. 104), and thence into the Bedal (p. 189) takes 8-10 hrs., and should not be attempted without an experienced guide (to be obtain- ed at Gredung). By this expedition the traveller avoids the necessity of returning to Toning, and can go directly to Loen through the Loendal. II. EXCURSION TO THE LOENDAL: to Loen from Faleide 2 hrs., from Olderen 1 hr.; on foot to Vasenden 3/4 hr.; to the upper end of the Loenoand, by rowing-boat, 2 hrs.; thence on foot to within sight of the K jendalsbmz 1/2-3/4 hr., to the glacier itself 1/2-3/4 hr. The passage from FALEIDE p. 181) to Loen is very picturesque. To the E. rise the Skaalan (636 ft.) with its glacier-filled ‘Schaale’ opening to the N.W., the Sandernibben, and the Auflemsfjeld (p. 189), behind which, as we proceed, the Melheimsnibben comes also into view. On the 8. bank are the gaards of Aarholm, Algjel (high up, with a waterfall and saw-mill), Vanberg, Hwggestad, Gillesdal, and Skarstcn, the last giving its name to the Slam-sten- field (5060 ft.). On the N. side rise the Aarheimsfjetd (p. 187) and the Ophcimsfjeld; the latter may be ascended from Rake in from Faleide. L‘OENDAL. 22. Route. 189 2 hrs., and commands a magnificent view. A still more extensive prospect is obtained from the top of the Lofjeld (1/2 hr. to the To the S. we now gain an uninterrupted view of the Oldendal (p. 190). Travellers land at the ‘Nest’ (boat-houses), about 10min. walk from the village. -— From OLneRnN (p. 191) also Loen can be reached by water only. Loen (where, if necessary, lodging can be obtained in the house of the ‘Bondemand’, Johannes Loen, or in that of Anders Markusson Loen), with a little church belonging to Stryn, lies at the entrance to the *Loendal, which is watered by a clear little stream and is bounded on the N. by the Lofjeld, and on the S. by the Auflems- fjeld (5050 ft.). A carriage-road, affording beautiful views of the snow-covered Bedalsfjeld, and farther on of the Kronsbmz and the Kjendalskona, ascends from Loen through a park-like landscape, passes the mouth of the Fosdal and the Ha-ugfos, a ‘horse-shoe’ waterfall formed by the Loendalselv, and brings us in 35 min. to the hamlet of Vasenden. Fine view from the bridge to the right. We now reach the **Loenvand, a mountain lake of the most imposing description, about 71/2 Engl. M. long. A boat is obtained here (40 0.), the rowers for which must be brought from Faleide (comp. p. 1257). Soon after starting we enjoy an uninterrupted view over the whole lake. On the left, above the gaard of Sande, rises'the Sandenibben (5430 ft.), on the right are the Auflemsfjeld and the Melheimsnibben (5425 ft.). From all the mountains, but especially from the Raonefjeld (6560 ft.) on the right, large gla- ciers descend, all, however, ending at a considerable altitude. At the Brengsnaesswter, to the left, a waterfall descends from the Skabbrw; farther on, on the same side, are the gaards of Helle— swter. On the opposite side of the lake is a huge glacier terminat— ing abruptly at a height of 3900 ft., from which there roll down during the warm weather almost constant avalanches of ice. These fall first over a sheer precipice of 1000 ft. and then flow onward in a partially covered stream, finally spreading themselves out in a fan-shaped form, and almost reaching the verge of the lake. At the time when there are no avalanches about 10 waterfalls pour over the precipice. On the left are the gaard of Hogrending and a waterfall de- scending from the Osterdalsbrw. The right bank is uninhabited; On the left rises the Koazmhusfjeld (5700 ft.), with the gaard of Rodi at its foot. To the right is the precipice of the serrated Ravne/‘jeld, the base of which we now skirt towards the S. On the left we have a view of the Bedal, with Gaa'rden Bedal, and in the background the Skaalfield‘with the Skaalb'rw. From the gaard of Bodal we may visit the Bedalsswter and the ad- jacent Badalsbroe (Soeterbrw, 11/2-2 hrs.) or, spending the night on the saeter, we may ascend the Lodalskaupe (8850 ft.; p. 104) in 840 hrs. The traveller must, however, secure his guide beforehand in Bgdal, as on the swters generally girls only are to be found. 190 Route 22. OLDENDAL. Excursions The lake now contracts to the dimensions of a ‘Sund’. In front towers the huge *Nonsnibba, rising sheer to a height of over 6000 ft. To the right opens the Kvandal or Nwsdal, with its gla- cier, adjoining which is the *Utiga'rdsfos, a waterfall ‘.2000 ft. high, descending from the glaciers of the Ravnefjeld. Passing through a bend of the lake, we find ourselves in the centre of the magnificent **Amphitheatre of Nmsdal, bounded by the Ravne- fjeld on the W., the Nonsnibba on the S., and the Bedalsfjeld on the E. Between the two latter we see the Kronsbrce and the Kjen- datskona (6000 ft.). The grandeur of the scenery here is elsewhere unequalled in S. Norway. On the alluvial land at the mouth of the Kjendatselv, the outflow of the Kjendalsbrae, lie the turf-roofed gaards of Nazsdal. We land at the mouth of the stream after a row of about 2 hours. We now ascend the course of the Kjendalselv, passing at first through a wood of low alders. In 1/4 hr. we pass on the right a pro- jecting ledge called Jm'pen, from which the avalanches in spring rebound to the other side of the valley. After another 1/4 hr. we gain an unimpeded view of the *Kjendatsbmz or Nwsdalsb'rw, at the head of the valley. To the right a waterfall descends on the gla- cier from a height of about 650 ft. The traveller may now turn back, as the fatiguing bridle-path which goes on for about 1/2 hr., crossing two small feeders of the Kjendals— elv, affords no better point of view. An extremely cold wind generally prevails here. The alders all lie over towards the N. The vegetation suddenly assumes an entirely Alpine character. The glacier is receding. From the highest moraine we obtain a good view of the deep-blue ice- cavern at its extremity, which in 1880 could be entered without danger. Those who penetrate thus far should cross the glacier to the above-men- tioned a"Waterfall (as yet unnamed), which is scarcely inferior in size to the Veringsfos. III. EXCURSION To run OLDENDAL: to Otderen 2 hrs., to the Oidenoand 1 hr., to Rustaen 2 hrs., to the Brigsdal Glacier 2-21/2 hrs. The row from Faleide (p. 181) to (14 Kil.) Otdaren resem- bles that to Loen (p. 188), though the boat steers closer to the S. bank of the fjord. Beyond Giltesdal we obtain a full view to the S. of the ()ldendal, as far up as the pass of Sunde. To the right rises the Gecilienkrona, to the left the Ravnefjeldsbrze. Olderen (Inn, unpretending, much frequented by anglers) lies at the mouth of the beautiful Oldendal, 11 Kil. from Visnaas (p. 187) and 22 Kil. from Utviken (p. 181). As this is not a skyds—station it is unlikely that the traveller can obtain a ‘stol— kjzerre’ here, but he may order one to await him at Eide on his return (in about 8 hrs., fare 11/2 kr.). ~ The picturesque walk from Olderen to (4 Eide can be easily accomplished in 1 hr. After 20 min. we cross the milky stream, which here forms the Lakenfos. We then proceedv to the from Faleide. OLDENDAL. 22'. Route. 191 W., skirting the Floenvand, on the E. bank of which lies the ruined gaard of Ophez'm, destroyed by an inundation (Flom) in 1879. In 1/2 hr. we reach —- Eide, at the N. end of the *Oldenvand, a lake 7 Engl. M. in length and barely 3/4 M. in breadth, which stretches hence towards the S. and is enclosed by lofty walls of rock. A rough bridle- path on the W. bank may be used if no boat can be procured. The first halfvof the passage is less interesting than the second. To the left lies the gaard of Sandnazs, to the right an ancient mo- raine with the gaard of Bennazs, above which rises the Bennces- Klaaven. Waterfalls plunge headlong from the rocks on every side. To the right towers the huge Store Cecilienkrona (5825 ft.), the steep sides of which give no foothold to gaard or saeter. To the left, by the side of mountain-torrents, lie the gaards of Haahjem, Strand, and Gjerde. To the S. the lake appears walled in by the Synsnib, but as we approach Sunde, we obtain a view, through an opening to the right, of the Gryterez'dsnib (5620 ft.) and the Yri- nib, with their glaciers. -— The strait of *S'unde, through which we next pass, has been formed by the deposits brought down on the left by two streams descending from the Gjerdeazrlen (6420 ft.) and the Neslenib (4860 ft.). On the same bank are the gaards of Sunde. On the right another stream, formed by the outflow of the glacier of the Cecilienkrona, enters the lake near the gaard Flaaten. The current in the narrow Sunde is rather strong. The reflection (Skyggebz'llede) of the glaciers and waterfalls in the greenish-milky water produces a very curious effect. —— On rounding the sombre steeps of the Synsnib, we obtain a magnificent **View of the S. half of the lake, which here expands to its former dimensions. The Mazlkevoldsbraz, a huge and imposing glacier, is seen descend- ing from the head of the Oldendal to the lake, a distance of 6 Engl. M. To the right towers the majestic Yrinib, from which several waterfalls are precipitated, while at its base lie the gaards of Bak- Yri and Indre- Yri. At the end of the lake is the Rustefiield, with a large waterfall, descending in two leaps. Other cascades fall from the Kvamfjeld, to the left. After a row of 2 hrs. we land at Rusteen, where a bed, bread, and milk may be obtained. The gaard lies on the alluvial land formed by the deposits of innumerable glacier streams. Our route gradually ascends across this low-lying and at places marshy tract to Hojalm, and then traverses an old moraine to (1/2 hr.) Malkeoold, whence a path leads to the S.W. through the Oldenskar to the Stardal (guide, Christen Rusteen ,~ see p. 180). Opposite Maelke— vold are the Augsburgnibba and the glacier and gaards of Aabrekke, in the Braendsdal. At the last gaard we again descend to the left into the valley, passing a mill (kvwrnhus) on the right. The path .then leads to the left along the stream, in the direction of the *Moelkeooldbm, in which there was a large ice-cavern in 1880. 192 Route 22. MOLDE. After 20 min. we cross a marshy piece of ground, beyond which we thread our way among large boulders, and in 20 min. more we cross the stream and ascend to the E. through the Brtgsdal to (10 min.) ~— Gaarden Brigsdal (490 ft.), where milk can be procured. On the opposite side of the main valley is the *Nonsfos, a pretty double fall. Comp. the Map at p. 96. We now ascend on the right bank of the Brigsdatselo to the (1/2 hr.) Waterfall of that stream. The ascent is easy at first, but soon becomes very steep , and at places demands actual climbing. Beyond the fall we ascend over ice-worn rocks to a new zone of the valley, where we suddenly obtain a beautiful view of the *Brigs- dalsbroe, the blue ice masses of which tower above forests of birch and alder. Our route now leads through the trees, and in 20 min. brings us to the foot of the glacier (1000 ft.), which descends from the Jostedalsbrae on the E. On every side are strewn huge blocks of ice, which have become detached from the glacier. Another glacier, ‘from which waterfalls and occasionally ice-boulders also descend, is seen to the 8., high up. The following fatiguing and difficult expedition, affording a fine survey of the majestic beauties of the Jostedalsbrae, is now occasionally made from this point. Ascending the Brigsdalbrce we skirt the rocky hill at the head of it (5500 ft.), and reach the Maelkevoldsbree. We then descend the latter glacier. traversing a disagreeable tract of debris, and finally cross the Brigsdalselv to Gaarden Brigsdal (see above). This ex— pedition should be attempted only with the aid of Christen Rusteen, as the Faleide guides are by no means at home in this region. 23. Molds and the Moldefjord with its Branches. Molde, on account of its multifarious steamboat connections, is an excellent starting-point for various interesting tours- A visit to the Moldefjord and Romsdalsfjord may be especially recommended. This should be made from Molde rather than in the reverse direction, as in the former case the landscape increases in impressiveness as we proceed, whereas, it‘ we visit the Romsdal first, the succeeding scenery becomes less grand at every step. Those who intend to return to Molde should go by land and return by steamer. . Steamers leave Molde for Bergen and Throndhjem 4 times a week; for Aalesund, 6 times; for Vestnces, 3-4 times; for Veblungsnces, 3-4 times, for Etdsvaag and Neste via Alfarnoes, twice. For Bod they sail generally twice a week; and for the islands of Hare, Sande and Ona weekly or fort-nightly. Molde (*Simonscn’s Hotel, at the W. end of the town, with a fine view, R. 11/2-2, B. 1 kr.; *Molde Hotel, in the main street, near the steamboat anchorage), a clean little town of 1700 inhab., is pleasantly situated on the N. bank of the Molde/‘jord. Although the long islands of Hjazrte and Faare afford excellent shelter to the large harbour, yet its trade for the most part has been gradually diverted to Aalesund. Being sheltered by hills of considerable height from the N. and W. winds, the vegetation in the neighbour- hood is unusually luxuriant. Roses and other flowers are more abundant than vin most other parts of Norway, and some of the v.“ “ I " l/ " ‘ - "h . _- . 1 ‘ . . _ 5 ‘v. s a , I K‘ > i , | _A “ ‘ v’ ' i a ,. I _ _ -‘ ‘ “ ' _ 'l‘ _3- I," , ‘ "' ~~ ‘ ,7 , ' " v ‘ _ Z‘I“; \ ,, ‘I _''‘~ v ‘p A", I ’ , 1 ~,. ‘ ‘ 4 1 r» 3 vi ‘I ‘a I .‘ ‘ ‘ _ ‘ ‘if’ “‘ > a‘ “y H .\r V V "v _ L n‘. .7‘ V , I ~ ‘ .l ‘ I » N., ‘I I I“ > ' , . um!” I ‘m ‘M5 I i ' ‘ ‘ ‘ l ' i a ‘ ' 2 0 Kilometres wngm‘“‘Q'Dohefl'I'mp‘ g' .; ‘lsoémrmflsh Y’ .1 : 500.000 ~—- - r 1' It" ‘ M118. IS'EO'R ‘THEN. 23.,r-Rmvte; 193 hhilses are picturesquely overgrown with honeysuckle. The pre- dhminant pine and birch are mingled with horse-chestnuts, limes, ashes, and cherry-trees. The main street of the little town, running parallel with the bank of the fjord, presents a trim and clean ap- pearance. At the back of the town, a little above the main street, is a road skirting the hill-side, and commanding beautiful views. On this road stands the Church, with its pretty churchyard. We follow the road to the E. as far as a mill and small waterfall, near which we observe a very large cherry-tree. A branch of this road descends again to the coast-road, which leads to the E. past the prettily situated Guard Molde and along the'Fanestrand, as this part of the bank is called, nearly 4 Engl. M. in length, where a number of the merchants of Christiansund possess pleasant villas (see also p. 195). "The road running to the ’W. from the church, and another diverging from the main street at the house No. 26 and passing through an avenue of birches, both lead to the Humle-Haoe or_ Dahls-Haoc, a charming private garden , beyond which a path ascends to the (1 hr.) Varde on the *Moldehei (1350 ft.; several finger—posts ‘til Varden.’). On the top are a refuge-hut and a huge weather-vane. The view is one of the most picturesque in Norway. At our feet lies the beautiful fjord, with Molde nestling on its N. bank; on the opposite bank, beyond Vestnaes , rises a long range of picturesquely shaped mountains, partially covered with snow, the most prominent of which is Lauparen (p. 194); to the left of these (S.E.), in the distance, rise the Trolltinder (p. 125), Romsdalshorn, and Vengefjeldene in the Romsdal, and still more to the left the Skjortan in the Eikisdal (p. 198). By walking 10-15 min. farther to the left we also obtain a view of the open sea. (A good pano— rama is to be had at Olsen’s book-shop at Molde, and at Oammer- meyer’s in Ohristiania, price 11/4 kr.) -— Those who have not time to ascend the Moldehei should follow the road for 10 min. beyond Dahls-Have, turn to the right, and ascend the *Rrrlcneshaug, a knioll commanding a charming view similar to that from the Molde- hei, though less extensive (from the inns to this point and back 1/gi-3/4 hr.). At the foot of this hill lies the leper hospital of ' Ratknws. To the NE. of Molde rises *Stor Tuen (‘great hill’; 3200 ft.), known in Molde as the Tursten, another remarkably fine point of view, which should be visited if time permits (21/2-3 hrs. ; ‘guide unnecessary if the following directions be noted). The route as- cends on the farther bank of the brook. at the E. end of the town, passing a few houses and traversing a partially cleared wood. The barren ‘Tue’ forms the background of the valley. After 3/4 hr. the valley divides; we keep to the right, and in 1/4 hr. more cross a bridge. The path then ascends towards the summit in a straight direction, through pines, birches, juniper-bushes, ‘and ferns, and Bannnx'an‘s ‘Norway and Sweden. ~ 2nd Edit. 13 194 Rollin-3. ROMSDALSFJORD. Moldefiord. is marshy at places, but presents no difficulty. The dying and dead pines, with their silver-grey trunks, on the (11/4 hr.) upper boundary of the wood are very picturesque. Thence to the summit about ‘20 min. more. The flora here is of an Alpine character. The very extensive view embraces the fjord and the mountains to the N., E., and S., while the boundless Atlantic stretches to the W. —- On the mountain are several small lakes or tarns ( Tjaern) which form the source of the brook by which we have ascended. a. Steamboat Voyage from Molde to Veblungsnaes in the Romsdal. The Aalesund steamer leaves Molde twice weekly (Sun. and Thurs. afternoons) for Veblungsnoes and Nws (4 hrs.), returning on the following mornings. There are also two local steamers weekly; one leaving Molde on Tues. at 4 p.m. and going direct to Noes; the other leaving on Sat. at 9 p.m. and calling at Vestnws, Nordvt'k, Veblungsnws, and Noes. These leave Naes on the return-voyage on Tues. at 7 p.m., and Sat. at 2 p.m. respectively. The Aalesund steamer and the Saturday local steamer first steer towards the (1 hr.) S. bank of the Moldefjord, where, at the en- trance of the Tresfjord, lies Vestnazs (p. 186), whence a road leads to Sjeholt, see p. 186. The Lauparen (5155 ft.) is here the most conspicuous of the mountains in the background. Passing the ver- dant Gjennundsnazs, we next come to the island of Scekken, where the Aalesund steamer stops at Vestad. Beyond this point the fjord takes the name of *Bomsdalsfjord. We here enjoy a fine view of the furrowed Vengefjeldene and other mountains of the Romsdal, of the Langfjord with the Skaalan to the N., and of numerous lofty peaks to the S. At the foot of these last is the thickly- peopled Vaagestrand, with its high-lying white church. The steamer then skirts the peninsula on which rises the Owen (‘2675 ft.), with the Redvenfjord (p. 196) to the E. Some steamers stop at Nordoik, lying with the church of Ez'd on the low neck at the S. end of the peninsula. To the S. rise the Troldstolene, with the St. Olafs-Stol, a ‘Botn’ formed by two hills and supposed to resemble a chair. The steamer then enters the little bay of Vold, with an old wooden church and numerous boat-houses (Nesta). A beautiful mountain back-ground with a couple of glaciers forms the end of the green and richly cultivated valley. Farther on the huge mountains on the Indfjord, which stretches from Sevik towards the S. for about 4 Engl. M., become promi- nent. They are generally known as the Iste'rficlde, and are as yet quite unexplored by the tourist. To the N. is Thorvik (p. 196). The magnificent view from this point includes the Isfiord, the Smarbottenfjeld to the N., and the massive mountains of the Romsdal to the S. ;. to the left is the Nasfield, and in the back- ground the peaks of the Vmgefjeldene, the blunted Kallskraa- Moldefjo-rd. STRANDE. 23. Route. 195 field and the Romsdalshom (p. 125). An adequate idea of the immense size of these mountains may be obtained by remembering that most of them are as high above the sea as the Kiinigsspitze or the Ortler above Sulden. Veblungsnaes and Haas, on the E. bank of the Rauma, which descends from the Romsdal, see p. 126. On Thursdays the Aalesund steamer proceeds in the evening to Sten in the Isfjord, but on Sunday it remains at Veblungsnaes till next morning. In winter the fjord is entirely frozen. From Sten we may walk via Gmvdal to the N. end ofthe Eikisdalsvand (p. 199). To the N. of Sten lies the church of Hen. b. Land Route from Molde to Veblungsnaes. 1L4 Kil. Roan. The stations are all fast with the exception of Molde itself, where a carriage should be ordered in good time, and of Dve'rgs nazs, to which ‘Forbud’ for a carriole should be forwarded. In the reverse direction this is unnecessary, as a boat is always to be had. Those who have visited or who do not care to visit the Fanestrand may go by steamer (p. 197) 0r rowing-boat from Molde to Alfarnazs. Beer is almost the only refreshment to be got on the way. Immediately to the E. of Molde begins (as already mentioned at p. 193) the *Fanestmnd, a coast-road shaded with birches, ashes, maples, larches, etc., and affording fine views of the fjord and the mountains of the Romsdal in the distance. At Lerbrovik, half-way to Strande, the Strand, the first part of which is studded with numerous villas and gaards, becomes more lonely. To the left diverges a road to Q'degaard and Eide on the Isingvaag (33 Kil. , with ‘skyds’; comp. p. 171). To the right we enjoy an unimpeded view of the island of Boise with its high-lying church, and of the headland of Dvergsnaes. 9 Kil. ist'rande, at the mouth of the Fanefio'rd, along which the road now leads (see p. 197). We, however, proceed by rowing- boat, which we may either take only to the gaards of -—— ~ 4 Kil. Dvergsnaes or Doersnazs (Forbud, see above), on the opposite bank of the Fanefjord (driving or walking thence to Sals- naes) or for the whole way to Alfarnaas. , The road- leading to the S. along the coast from Dvergsnaes is very hilly (‘bakket’), so that we must often alight and walk. We pass the gaard of Gjednazs, and cross the brook that descends from the Skaalan. The Vaagsaztergaard, with a steam-mill, is the pro- perty of an Englishman. From an eminence, which the road crosses, we obtain a fine view of the Trolltinder (p. 125), while in the foreground is the Haonevilc, and to the right the Vea (‘holy island’), with a church. We then descend to a small bay, and ascend the eminence on the S.W. side of the Langfjord, to —— 9 Kil. 'l' Salsnas. ‘From Dvergsnaes to Selsnzes the fare' is 1 kr., but from Sels'naes to Dvergsnaes (Selsnws being a fast station) 1 kr. 80 e. -- Selsnaes commands a fine view ofthe Langfjord to. the E. and the Romsdalsfjord to the S., with the islands of Veer, ‘ 13* 196 Route 23. ALFARNJES. Moldefjord. Saskken (p. 194), and the peculiarly shaped Hestholmen. —- We next cross the Lang/‘jord in a rowing-boat to — - 4 Kil. Alfarnaes, a steamboat—station (see p. 197), recalling by its charming situation the scenery on the Lake of Geneva. ii‘? The next part of the road, extending to the S. along the shore of the Redoenfiord, is the most beautiful of the whole route. The country is well cultivated. We pass in succession the gaards of Sandnazs , Freisazt, Seljenazs, and Holmeim. Opposite we have a view of Nordviken and the church of Eid (p. 194), and of the Owen (p. 194). In the distance are the Troldstolene (p. 194). At the gaard of Lazreim the road to Nordvik turns off to the right, while that to Thorvik ascends in a straight direction. Suddenly there bursts upon the traveller a splendid view of the Oraoatten to the right, of the Gjersaetoatten, and of the Vestnazs/fjeld, with the waterfall of Skjolen. To the left of the last rise the massive Vengefieldene (p. 125), to the right the Trolltinder, the Isterfjeldene, and the mountains on the Ind/‘50rd. The whole forms an immense amphi- theatre, thickly wooded on its lower slopes, and having its centre occupied by the Gjersaetvatten, in whose bosom the mighty moun- tains around are mirrored. Hence to Thorvik (see below) in 1 hr. The road next descends along the N. side of the valley, ascends again through a narrow pass, and, skirting the hill of Klungenoes on the right, leads through pine-woods to -— 14 Kil. '1- Thorvik (fare from Alfarnaes, 21/4 kr.). Thorvik lies at a considerable height above the fjord, but we can drive right down to the beach. From Thorvik we proceed by boat (one rower generally enough; 53 e.) to Veblungsnazs (4 Kil.) or to Naas, 2 Kil. farther (p. 126). c. From Molde to the Eikisdal. Most travellers omit the Et'kisdal, but the scenery in it is so magni- ficent, that it is worth while putting up with the small privations which this tour unavoidably entails. To Neste, situated at the entrance of the valley, we may go either by the road or by steamer. The steamers leave Molde on Sun. afternoon and Wed. morning, and Naste on Mon. morning and Wed. afternoon. The voyage takes 6 hours. The PLAN OF THE ToUR may be arranged in various ways. -— A. 1st Day. On Mon. afternoon by carriole from Molde to Eidsvaag (good inn). 2nd Day (Tues), on foot or by boat to Nests, on foot or by carriole to Overaas, by boat across the Eikisdalsvand to Reiten-Uttgaard. 3rd Day. (Wed), by boat back to Overaas, on foot to Nests, and in the afternoon by steamer t0 Molde. By starting early on Sat. morning, taking a boat from Tjelde (p. 197) to Nesta, and thence if possible walking to Overaas, we may cross and recross the Es'kt'sdalsvand on the second day, and return in the evening to Neste, in time to catch the early steamer to Molde on Mon. morning. 3. 1st Day (Wed), by morning steamer to Nesta, thence on the same day to Reiten—Utigaard. 2nd Day, return to Nesta, thence on foot or by boat to Eidsvaag. 3rd Day, by land to Molde. Travellers who take the afternoon steamer on Sun. spend the first night at Eidsvaag or Nests, the next in Reiten- Utigaard, and the third again in Eidsvaag, whence they may return either by the high-road or by the steamer leav- ring on Wed. afternoon. Moldefjord. EIDSV'AAG. 23. Route. 197 LAND ROUTE FROM MOLDE 'ro Nes'rn (70 Kil. or 431/2 Engl. M.); with the exception of Molde all the stations are fast. -- From Molde we drive along the Fanestrand (p. 195) to — 9 Kil. 'I'Strande (p. 195). The road now skirts the bank of the Fanefiord, on whose S. side rises the mighty Skaalan (3590 ft.). 13 Kil. Eide (good quarters), where the route to Christian- sund, described on p. 200, diverges to the N. The vegetation is still luxuriant, and wall-fruit grows in the open-air. -— The fjord ends at the church of Kleve; but the road continues along the N. side of the valley to ~— 9 Kil. Istad. A little beyond this the road forks, the branch to the left leading to Angvik (p. 201), while our road runs to the right, through a monotonous wooded district, called the Osmark, with a view of the majestic Skaalan on the right. Crossing the Storclo, the road passes on the right the Osvand and the gaard of Gusiaas, and after traversing a more solitary region skirts the Sjerswtervand, with the gaard of the same name, and the Scetervand. Thence it descends steeply, commanding a beautiful view of the Langfjord and the snow-peaks to the S. 15 Kil. Tjelde, on the Langfjord, is hardly suitable for night quarters. Those who do not spend the night in Eidsvaag, should go on by boat from Tjelde direct to Neste (see below: 15 Kil., in 2'/2 hrs.). -— The road proceeds towards the E. at a considerable elevation above the Langfjord, and afterwards descends, always with a fine view of the mountains to the 8., among which the Skjortan is conspicuous. We next pass the old wooden church of Red (about to be pulled down) and several substantial—looking gaards. 10 Kil. Eidsvaag (good quarters), situated at the E. end of the fjord, which is here shallow, and at low water completely covered with sea-weed. A picturesque walk may be taken to the new church, 10 min. to the N. From Eidsvaag a road leads over the Title-raid to Eidseren on the Sundalsfjord (9 Kil.); see p 204 The road to the Eikisdal continues to skirt the bank of the fjord, and passes the large gaard of Varpenazs and the parsonage of Nazsset, where the novelist Bjernson spent part of his youth. Farther on the road becomes very hilly. It runs along the E. bank of the *Eiris/jy'ord (p. 198), passing the gaards of Bogge (steam- boat-station), Bredoik, and Strand, and the Lia-sorter. -- 14 Kil. Neste (p. 198). . STEAMBOAT Rou'rn FROM MOLDE 'ro Nes'rn (comp. p. 196; steamer ‘Molde’, no provisions on board). — The steamer steers ‘between the little islands of Hjaerta and Faare, and passing the Bolser to the left, enters the M olde/j'ord. After touching at Saris/cends on the island of Stricken, it proceeds past the Van (p. 195) to the stations of Salsnaes (p. 195) and Alfarnws (p. 196), to which point travellers for Veblungsnaas may also use the steamer. ‘ 198 Route 23. NHSTE. ' Moldefjord. The vessel next enters the Langfjord (17 Engl. M. long and about 2M. broad), on the N. bank of which towers the huge Skaalan (p. 197). The S. shore, near which our course lies, is to a large extent well-cultivated, though monotonous. The steamboat- stations are Midtet and Myklebostad, with the church of Vistdal, on a little bay, from which the Vistdal stretches into the interior. On the beach there are several boat-houses (Neste); in the background elevated old coast-lines and snow-peaks. The steamer passes the entrance of the Eirisfjord (see below) and calls at Eidsvaag (p. 197), at the E. end of the fjord. The steamer now retraces its course for a short distance, rounds the Nws, with the parsonage mentioned at p. 197, and enters the *Eirisfjord, which stretches 6Engl. M. to the S.E. from the end of the Langfjord. On the W. is the Emazsfield, with the gaard of the same name at its foot. To the E. are the gaards of Bogge (p. 197; steamboat-station), on a steep but fertile slope. In front rises the *Slcjortan (5660 ft.) or Kvitkua (‘white cow’); and below are the Strandelvsfos and the Dri'vafos, a thin thread of water. Farther to the right are the Koksm'en, the Meringdalsncrbbet, and the Tufttind, with a curious ‘Botn’ at its summit. To the extreme right is the Neste- arlen. After a voyage of 6 hrs. the steamer reaches the terminus —— Naste, or Eirisfiorderen. To the left stands a tolerable inn. The slow station for skyds (no accommodation) is 3 min. farther to the right. — On the arrival of the steamer, pedestrians should walk 1/2 hr. farther on to the gaard of '1‘h0rhus, near the Sim—Kirke, where pleasant, but somewhat primitive accommodation is to be had. Or they may go on to Overaas (see below). The fertile and lovely valley , which is generally called Sim- ‘dal after the above-mentioned church, is watered by the Eikis- dalselv, and is surrounded by immense mountains. Beyond the church the road divides into two branches, both debouching on the Eikisdalsvand. The one to the right emerges beside the gaard of Aasen; the other, crossing to the right bank of the river at Over- aas, skirts the imposing height of Gogseren (4325 ft.), which con- ceals the Skjortan from view. The summit of the ancient moraine separating the Eikisdalsvand from the Siradal, the only break in which is formed by the little stream, commands a fine retrospect. About 1 hr. beyond the church, we reach the gaards of - 8 Kil. (from Nerste) Overaas (tolerable quarters), situated on the S. side of the moraine, at the N. end of the Eikisdalsvand. The “Eikisdalsvand. (200 ft.) fills a narrow rocky basin about 12 Engl. M. in length. On both sides tower mountains covered ‘with snow and glaciers, from which descend impetuous waterfalls. Even in August the snow-fields stretch down almost to the lake, although the sides of the valley are clothed with pine and other woods, which afford shelter to bears. The produce of the numerous nut-trees is collected at the end of September and beginning of Moldefiord. ' UTIGAARD. 23. Route. 199 ‘ October, and forms the ‘Romsdalsnedder’ of commerce. The lake is almost always frozen over in winter, but the ice is seldom strong enough to support a man’s weight. Avalanches are frequent, and showers of stones also occur. A north wind generally prevails till about 10 or 11 a.m., and the boatmen make use of it by hoist- ing sails made of woven alder-twigs (Levseil). At other times the lake is generally perfectly still, and reflects in a most remarkable manner the surrounding mountains and waterfalls. There are but few human settlements on its banks, under the threatening masses of rock above. The inhabitants are much more taciturn than those of the rest of Norway , and wear only the darkest clothing. For the row to Reiten (3-31/2 hrs.) two rowers are required (tariff 21 a. per Kil., or 3 kr. 78 e. for the whole journey; there and back 7hr. 56 0., besides gratuity). At first we see only a small part of the lake, with the precipices of the Gogseren and the Aas- harnmeren to the left, and the gaard of Meringdal, commanded by the Meringdalsnazbbet and the Sjedelen (564 ft.), to the right. By and by, however, the mountains recede , and the view over the lake is unimpeded. High on the left is the Snetind. To the right the Nyhoz'tind (c. 6200 ft.) is visible above the Sjede- len. To the left again the waterfall of Tongjem, and the two gaards of Viken, with the Vikesaxlen above. On the W. side is the /Evels- braz, above which is the imposing peak of the Jurafield. Above the gaard of Hoeim, where good milk may be had, rise the snow- fields of the Hoeimfield, commanded by the Hoeimtz'nd (5640 ft.). Farther to the right is the Rangaatind, to the left the Aagottind (4950 ft.) and the Bjerkti'nd. The *Maradalsfos or Mardelafos now becomes conspicuous to the right of the Rangaatind, near the head of the lake. This very large and beautiful waterfall is formed by the Mardela, which flows from an upland valley, about 2600 ft. above the sea-level, and falls sheer over an abrupt precipice, 650 ft. high. The mass of water thus precipitated rebounds from the rock below and rises in the air in clouds of‘ spray. It then disappears and re-appears farther down in two arms, which unite to form another huge fall. On the lake, at the bottom of the fall, resides a ‘Federaadsmand’, or peasant proprietor of a small plot of ground. A finer view of the fall is obtained by landing, but the upper fall is inaccessible. The lake now makes a slight curve to the S.E., and the‘gaard of Reiten, situated at the point where the Aura-Etc flows into the lake, comes into view. Above the gaard we see a beautiful veil- like waterfall and the Bjoraafjeld. —- From the landing-place we walk to (20 min.) the gaard of —— Utz'gaard (good accommodation), which is a favourite resort of sportsmen in search of reindeer. Ola and Hans Utigaard are cele- . brated hunters and guides. A pretty walk up the valley, passing some mills to the left, driven by a small stream that springs from ‘200 Route 24. FURSAET. the earth in the immediate vicinity, brings us in 20 min. to the Eikisdats Chapel, where the pastor of Naesset (p. 197) holds service 4 times in the summer (no service in winter). Following the path we next come to a bridge over the Aura, near which is an ap- paratus for catching salmon. The road leads farther up the valley, passing numerous pretty gaards, to Finswt (12 Kil. from Reiten). Another hour (guide desirable, l/-,¢-1 kr.) brings us to the Aurestupene or Au-rstaupa, the falls formed by the Aura, which issues from the Aursjo. From Overaas (p. 198), from Hoet'm (p. 199), and from Reiten (p. 199) the traveller may walk by fatiguing mountain-paths to Sten on the Isfjord (p. 195) in '10-12 hrs., and in 1 hr. more to Noes in the Romsdal. This should be attempted only with a guide, if possible with one of the Uti- gaards, from whom, in any case, information should be obtained. 24. Land Routes from Molde to Throndhjem. 225 Kil. (140 Eng]. M.). As parts of the sea-route from Molde to Thrond- hjem are usually a little rough, many travellers will prefer one of the two following routes, which, however, are otherwise unattractive. Most of the skyds-stations are ‘slow’, and ‘Forbud’ should always be sent on. a. By Battenfjordseren and Christiansund. Departure from Molde not later than 6 a.m. To Battenfjordseren, 38 Kil. (24 Engl. M.), by carriole; thence in 21/4 hrs. to Christiansund by steamer, starting on Tues. and Frid. afternoon. From Molde by (9 Kil.) Strande to (13 Kil.) Eide, see p. 197. -— Our road turns off to the N. at this point, and ascends to ~— 9 Kil. Furstrt, a slow station. Those who have not sent ‘Forbud’ cannot count upon reaching Battenfjordseren (7 Kil.), and the steamer-station Strand (not a skyds-station), at the S. end of the Battenfjord, before midday. They will find it better to make this stage on foot. -— The Battenfjord is surrounded by mountains, 2500-3000 ft. high. The steamer touches at Gimnoes (see p. 171; also a slow skyds-station; good quarters), situated at the entrance to the fjord; then at Gutseth, Stensoig, and Christiansand. On any other than the two days that have been named, we may drive from F urseet in a carriole to (16 Kil.) Gimncrs (see above), whence we take a rowing—boat to (8 Kil.) Ftadsoet, on the Freda; thence by land across the island to (9 Kil.) Bolgen i Brems- nazs, and again by boat to (9 Kil.) Christiansand. Christiansund, see p. 170. From here to Throndhjem it is best to take the steamer ‘Etatsraad Riddervold’, which performs the journey both ways 3 times a week (12 hrs. each way). Avoiding the open sea, it sails to the ‘S. through the Vinjefjord, passing the large Tustere, Stabben, and Ert'vaage. On its day-journeys (northwards, Mon. and Wed.; southwards, Tues. and Thurs.) it touches at the stations of Laurvig, Storeen, Magereen, Havnskjel, Kongensvold, Beian, Brtekstad, and Redberg. On its night-journeys (Sat. and Sun.) it stops only at Magereen. ’ ’ Throndhjem, see p. 210. DOVREFJELD. 25. Route. 201 From Christiansund we may also take’ the Surendal steamer (twice weekly) to (7 hrs.) Surendalseren, and thence follow the land route de- scribed below. b.‘ By Angvik and OrkedaI. With the exception of the first stage, this route is monotonous , and on the Whole little to be recommended. The stations are fast, with the exception of Heggetm, Angvt'k, Koksm'k z‘ Thtngoold, and Bolsaet, to which ‘Forbud‘ should therefore be sent. The accommodation at almost all the stations is tolerable. From Molde to‘(31 Kil.) Istad, see p. 196. —— Then follow the slow stations of (11 Kil.) Heggeim and (11 Kil.) Angvz'lc, a station of the Sundal steamer (p. 171), whence we cross the Sundalsfjord by rowing-boat to (6 Kil.) Koksotlc i Thingcotd, also a steamboat- station. At both of these places a steamer calls twice weekly in each direction. We then proceed by carriole to (7 Kil.) Bolsazt, and by rowing-boat to (7 Kil.) Stangvik (good quarters), a station of the Surendal steamer. Then again by carriole to — 15 Kil. ~1~Aasen, not far from the steamboat-station of Surcn- dalseren and the Surcndal. 10 Kil. 'I'Haanstad; 16 Kil. 'l‘Aune; 9 Kil. vi‘Foseide, near the church of Rindalen; 14 Kil. 'jrGarberg; 19 Kil. Aarli/uold. 12 Kil. *fBaIc t Qrkedal. [About 8 Kil. to the N. lies Hrke- dalseren (p. 205), whence on Mon., Wed., Frid., and Sat. after- noons the steamer ‘Orkla’ sails for Throndhjem.) 19 Kil. Eli ,- 10 Kil. TSaltncessanden; 8 Kil. Hetmdal, a sta- tion on the Ohristiania and Throndhjem railway (p. 210.) 25. From Domaas (Molde or Lillehdmmer) to Steren ( Throndlg'em) . 159 Kil. (881/3; Engl. M.). Roan, with fast stations, comparatively little used since the opening of the railway described in R. 26. Travellers from Molde who combine_this route with a visit to the Romsdal usu- ally take four days to reach Throndhjem from Aak or Veblungsnazs (p.126), though it is possible to travel .more quickly. 1st Day, to Stueflolen (p. 123); 2nd Day, to Domaas; 3rd Day, to Rise or Aune; 4th Day, to Steren, and in the evening by train to Throndhjem. —- Walking is recom- mended from Domaas to Fogstuen (6 Engl. M.), from Jerkin to Drivstuen (16 M.), and from Austbjerg to Bjerkaker (8 M.). t From Molde or Lillchammer to Domaas, see R. 15. Domaas lies at the S. base of the Dovrefjeld, the most famous of the Norwegian mountain ranges, which separates Southern (Sendenfjelske) from Northern (Nordenfjelslce) Norway. As the Norwegian mountains do not form well-defined chains like the Alps, but consist of vast table- lands, intersected here and there by valleys, there are no passes here in the Swiss sense of the word. After reaching the lofty plateau the road runs for many miles without much variation of level, and then descends gradually to the ‘nordenfjelske’ valleys. A great part of the ‘route traverses lofty, bleak, and treeless solitudes, passing rock-strewn tracts, swamps, gloomy lakes, and dirty masses of snow, and is therefore far from picturesque. The solemn grandeur 202 Route 25. JERKIN. From Domaas of the scenery, however, has a peculiar weird attraction of its own, and the pure mountain-air is remarkably bracing and exhilarating. For botanists, zoologists, and sportsmen there are also abundant attractions. Beyond Kongsvold, however, the character of the land- scape changes. The road traverses the highly picturesque gorges of the Driva and the Orkla, beyond which the country presents a more smiling aspect and is comparatively well peopled. As Throndhjem is approached the vegetation will strike the traveller as being re- markably rich for so northern a latitude (nearly the same as that of the S. coast of Iceland). The road at first ascends very rapidly, traversing moor and swamp, scantily overgrown with stunted pines. Looking back, we obtain an imposing survey of the mountains. To the W. lies the Lesjevand (p. 121), which we passed on the way from the Romsdal to Domaas. In about 1 hr. we reach the plateau. The road then crosses the Fogsaae, an affluent of the Glommen. To the left are ex- tensive mountain-plains where the sources of the Driva take their rise, the waters of which descend to Sundal. On the Fogstuha we observe three saeters on the right and others to the left. To the N.W. rise the Hundsje and Slcreda-Fjeld, and beyond them the Snehatta, the snow-field and glacier of which in its W. basin (‘Botn’) are distinctly visible. 10 Kil. (pay for 11) +Fogstuen (3190 ft. ; tolerable station) is one of the four ‘Fjeldstuer’, or mountain-inns, which were founded by government on the Dovrefjeld for the accommodation of travel- lers so far back as 1107-10. The landlords still receive an annual subsidy from government, and it is part of their duty to keep the roads open in winter and to forward the mails. The other three ‘Fjeldstuer’ are Jerkin, Kongsvold, and Drivstuen. ‘From my inmost soul I commended the good king Eystez'n, who in 1120 built these four Fjeldstuer on the Dovrefjeld for the benefit of Way- farers crossing the mountain‘. (L. 12. Buck.) From Fogstuen the old road, now disused, leads across the lofty Ha'rdbalcke (3750 ft.) direct to Toftemoen in the Gudbrandsdal (p. 120). ~— L. 1). Buck, who traversed this route at the end of April (i.e. in winter) writes; ‘The lofty pyramid of the Snehaetta then came in sight in the midst of the fog, several miles to the north. So rises Mont Blanc , when seen from the Brevent , from its mantle of ice. It is not a mere moun- atin, but a mountain on a mountain. A great and sublime apparition commanding the whole of this solitude’. The road from Fogstuen to Jerkin is nearly level the greater part of the way, and the scenery is monotonous. We pass several lakes (Nysmter Lake, Vardesje, and Afsja) formed by the Fogsaae, which farther on is called the Folda. On the left rises the insig- nificant Vardesjehe, and on the right are the Blaahaer. On the Vardesje (also known as the Foldasje), and to the right farther on, there are several szeters. 21 Kil. 1* Jerkin (3140 ft. ; excellent station), situated in the midst of wild and desolate scenery, is a good starting-point for reindeer-stalkers and anglers, and also for the ascent of the Sne- to Throndhjem. DRIVSTUEN. 25. Route. 7203 haetta. The *Kitchen of the old house, with its antique carved fur- niture, is an object of great interest. One of the chairs dates from 1676. Pleasant walk to the Jerkinhe, the highest point on the old road (4100 ft.). The Snehwtta (7770 ft., ‘snow-hat’), which ranks about sixth among the mountains in Norway in point of height, is most conveniently ascended from Jerkin. The ascent was accomplished for the first time by Esmark at the end of last century, and has very frequently been made since. (Guide 2, horse 4 kr.; ‘Niste’, or provisions, necessary.) For 3-4 hrs. we ride across an exceedingly bleak rocky and mossy tract, crossing several torrents, and lastly ascend on foot for 2-3 hrs. over masses of rock co- vered with snow and ice. For the whole excursions 12 hrs. at least should be allowed. In clear weather (which is rare on the Dovrefjeld) the view is very extensive in every direction, but deficient in picturesqueness and far inferior to that from the Galdhepig (p. 146). The chief object of inter- est is the finely shaped mountain itself, composed of mica-slate. A not unattractive route, with fast stations, leads from Jerkin through the Foldal to Lille-Elvdal in the valley of the Glommen (railway-sta- tion, p. 208). The stations are: 17 Kil. +Dalen, 17 Kil. i-Krokhaugen, 18 Kil. i-Ryhaugen, and 33 Kil. Lille-Elodal. From Krokhaugen a road leads to the S. to the Amevand and the Rdndane (see p. 207). The new road from Jerkin to Kongsvold ascends a hill to the W., and then descends gradually to the Svonaae, the course of which it now follows. We enjoy a very striking *Vnrw of the Snehzetta, which looks quite near. The road crosses the boundary between the Stift of Hamar and that of Throndhjem, and gradu- ally descends into the valley of the rapid Driva, the course of which it follows down to Aune. 10 Kil. (pay for 13) TKongsvold (about 3100 ft.; excellent station) also forms good headquarters for sportsmen. The Snehaetta may be ascended hence almost as easily as from Jerkin. Beyond Kongsvold the road descends through the very picturesque *Ra- vine of the Driva , the first part of which at least should be tra- versed on foot. In winter the route formerly used was the frozen and snow-clad river, while the summer-route, called the Vaarsti (‘spring-path’), was a very steep and tortuous path on the right bank of the stream. Pedestrians are recommended to follow this disused route, which is very interesting, and to send on their horses to the point where it rejoins the road. This ravine is bounded by enormous precipices, from which numerous waterfalls descend, while the Driva itself forms a series of magnificent cataracts. Fine Alpine flora. 15 Kil. 'lrDrivstuen (good station), the fourth of the ‘Fjeld- stuer’ on the Dovrefjeld. The valley expands and the vegetation becomes richer. Birches and pines clothe the slopes. A few fields of barley and potatoes also appear. Scenery still fine. The road passes the Aamotselv and crosses the Driva by a handsome new bridge, a little beyond which is a gorge called Magalaupet (Laup, ‘gorge’, ‘,gully’), crossed by a genuine old-fashioned Norwegian bridge, where the traveller should alight to inspect the scene. The Driva forms imposing waterfalls here. The broad Drz'oadal, a 204 Route 25. - BJERKAKER. From Molde lower and more fertile zone of the valley, now suddenly comes in view, and we descend to — 12 Kil. (pay for 17) 'l-Rise (tolerable station). The Vinstra, descending from the right, falls into the Driva here. The Dovre- fjeld terminates at -- 10 Kil. 'l-Aune (about1750 ft.; good station), sometimes called Ny-Aune or Ny-Qone, in the Opdal. To the W. rises the lofty Munkevoldsfjeld, and to the E. the Atlmandbjerg. From Aune an interesting road diverges to the left, following the Driva, which is afterwards called the Sundalselv, and descends the Sundal to Sundalsmen. The stations on this road are all fast. —— The some- what hilly road leads first to (11 Kil.) ~l-Aalbu and then descends through a ravine, passing Gravaune, to (16 Kil.) qLSliper' (1800 ft.). It next crosses the Graaur'en, a hill at the side of which the Driva rushes through a deep gorge. At (9 Kil.) 1-G'ara begins the *Sundal, a valley which vies in grandeur of scenery with the Romsdal. The road follows the course of the Sundalselv pretty closely. 17 Kil. +Storfale. Avalanches and stones frequently fall from the dizzy heights of the Romfogkjrerringerne, Kleng- fjeld, and Hoaasncebba, and at some of the most dangerous points the traveller is warned by his attendant to drive as quickly as possible (‘Sneeskred! kje'r til’). 18 Kil. ~{~Sundalsoren (accommodation at the ‘landhandler‘s°), at the S. end of the Sundalsfjord, on which a steamer plies twice weekly in 8 hrs. to Christiansund (comp. p. 171). The neighbouring mountains rise to a height of 5000-6000 ft., the most conspicuous being the Gr'emuebba and~ Hofsnoebba to the N., and the Kalken to the S. To the S. opens the romantic “Lilledal, which may be visited by carriage in 3-4 hrs. (road to Date, 11 Kil.). —— If the traveller misses the steamboat, he should take a rowing-boat to (22 Kil.) Eidseren (p. 197) and drive thence by carriole to Eidsvaag (p. 197). Beyond Aune the road quits the valley of the Driva and be- comes uninteresting. It follows the course of the Byna and crosses the low watershed between that stream and the Orkla, which after- wards falls into the Throndhjem Fjord at Qrkedalseren (see below). Beyond -— 14 Kil. 'i' Stuen, or Nystuen (good station), the road descends to the Orkla, which is crossed by a handsome bridge. The river forms a fine waterfall here. Then a steep ascent to —- 11 Kil. Austbjerg (1365 ft. ; tolerable), from which the road, still ascending, and traversing forest, follows the magnificent *Ravine of the Orkla, the bed of which in 700 ft. below us. Beau- tiful views , particularly of the snow-mountains to the S.W. 12 Kil. 1L Bjerkaker (good station) lies at the highest point of his part of the road. From Bjerkaker a road with fast stations leads to (93 Kil. or 58 Engl. M.) .GRKEDALseREN on the Throndhjem Fjord, whence a steamboat starts for Throndhjem four times weekly (see p. 211). The road passes Gaard Hoel, where a famous drinking-horn is still shown, presented by Christian V., out of which Charles XIV. John (Bernadotte), Oscar 1., and Charles XV. respectively drank when on their way to be crowned at Throndhjem. The horn bears inscriptions relating to its history. A huge birch-tree at Heel, 9 ft. in circumference, is also worthy of notice. The first station is (14 Kil.) i-Haarstad. Farther on we pass Guard Uf, with a very old building, the wood-carving on which is said to have been executed by the ‘Jutuls‘ (giants) with their finger-nails‘. Next station a» Throndhjem. sTeR-EN. I 25. Route. 205 (14 Kil.) ~l- Grul; then (11 Kil.) 'i-Kalstad c‘ Meldalen, from which a road leads to the W. via Gar-berg and Fosez'd to Snrendalserren (p. 204). Our road, which leads due N., passes Lekkens Kobbervoerk, crosses the Orkla, and next reaches (15 Kil.) i-Aarlz'vold (good quarters), whence a road to the S.W. also leads to Surendalseren, while another road leads to the E. to (17 Kil.) Kraakstad and the (17 Kil.) Hom'n railway-station (p. 210). From (12 Kil.) +Balc, the next station on our route, a road leads to the E. via (17 Kil.) By aid (12 Kil.) Saltnoessaalen to (11 Kil.) Hez'mdal, a railway-station near Throndhjem (p. 210). We next reach (8 Kil.) +flrke- dalseren (Inn, kept by the schoolmaster), from which Throndhjem may be reached by steamboat in 3-4 hrs. (comp. p. 211). Beyond Bjerkaker the scenery continues fine. The road tra- verses the Soknedal and follows the course of the Igla, and after- wards that of the Staoilla—Elv and Hauka-El'v , the united waters of which fall. into the Gula at Steren. The vegetation becomes richer, and the traveller might imagine he was approaching a more' southern region instead of so high a latitude. ' 12 Kil. “it Garlid (good station) lies on a height to the left. The road descends through a picturesque ravine with waterfalls and mills. In the reverse direction this stage is trying to the horses. 10 Kil. Praesthus (very poor). Handsome gaards to the right. Adjacent is the church of Soknedal or Sogndal. 14 Kil. j‘Steren, or Engen i Steren (Hotel, adjoining the rail- way-station). Travellers arriving here and intending to start again soon by train should drive direct to the railway-station. -— From Steren to Throndhjem (about 21/2 hrs. by train), see p. 210. 26. From Ghristiania to Throndhjem. 560 Kil. (347 Engl. li-L). RAILWAY (Nordbane-rne). In summer a through- train runs daily, accomplishing the whole distance in 24 hrs. At other seasons the early train from Christiania stops for the night at (15 hrs.) Tansoet, and goes on next day to (101/2 hrs.) Throndhjem. In the reverse direction the night is spent at Koppang.. Fares from Christiania to Throndhjem, 29 kr. 70, 17 kr. 58 o. Beyond Hamar the railway is a narrow-gauge line, and as the carriages are not provided with ‘spring- buffers, passengers often sustain a severe jolting at starting and draw- ing up. There are two classes only, called 1st and 2nd, but correspond— ing to the 2nd and 3rd classes of most other railways. —— There are few railway—restaurants on the line. Dinners are provided for travellers going N. at Hamar' and Sz'ngsaas (1 kr. 25 91.). notice being given to the guard at Eidsvold or Tyvold. Going S. travellers order dinner at Singsaas or Stenviken and receive it at Reros or Hamar. It is advisable to write or telegraph to the hotels at Tenstct or Koppang in order to secure a com- fortable room. With the exception of Lake Mjflsen there is almost nothing on this route to induce the traveller to make any stoppage or detour. The sec- nery is monotonous, and the extensive forests on the E. frontier present attractions only to sportsmen and anglers. Of the numerous lakes in the district traversed by the railway the largest is the Faemund-Sje, which may be visited by carriole from Rena or Koppang. From Ohristiania to (68 Kil. or 42 Engl. Eidsvold (410 ft), see p. 113. — The‘ railway journey from Eidsvold to Hamar pre— sents little variety of scenery, but is preferable to' the longer steamboat journey. - To the left we have a view nearly the whole 206 Route 26. HAMAR. From Christiania way of the Mjasen (p. 114), the Skreiafield (p. 114), and the Helgea (p. 115); to the right, in the distance, are the mountains of the .Gstcrdal. The train follows the right \bank of the pretty Vormen to its efflux from the Mjesen, near — 75 Kil. (461/2 Engl. Minna (465 ft.). At the Minnesund it crosses the river by an iron bridge, 65 ft. high and 1180 ft. long, and then skirts the E. bank of the Mjesen. 84 Kil. (52 Ulvin (420 ft.), commanding a fine view of the Bay of Fairing, on the opposite side of the lake. The train now enters the Hedema'rkens Amt. 97 Kil. Espen (425 ft.), situated on the picturesque bay of Korsadcgaard. 102 Kil. Tange'n (540 ft.), with the church of the same name. In the fertile environs lie the gaards of Korsade, Hof, and Vik. The train now ascends through a solitary wooded region, the highest point of which is about 330 ft. above the Mjesen. Beyond (114 Kil.) Stange (730 ft.) it descends through a well-tilled district. 119 Kil. Ottestad (610 ft.), situated on the Akersvik, which the train crosses by an embank- ment and a bridge. I 126 Kil. (78 Hamar (410 ft.), see p. 114. -— We now change carriages, and proceed by the narrow-gauge Reros Railway. The train gradually ascends the sparsely peopled and at places thickly wooded region of Hedemarken. The scenery is uninterest- ing , and the stations are unimportant. 129 Kil. Alter (405 ft.); 131 Kil. Hjellum; 135 Kil. Ilseng. Near (139 Kil.) Hersand (570 ft.) we obtain a fine view of the Slcreia Mts., to the S. of Lake Mjesen. 141 Kil. Aadalsbrug. Beyond (144 Kil.) Lm'ten (760 ft.) we pass the drilling-ground of Tcrningmoen , and soon reach —— 158 Kil. (98 M.) Elverum (600 ft. ; Rail. Restaurant,- *Erlandsen’s Inn,- Niclsen’s, in the adjacent Hummeldal), a prettily situated vil- lage, almost presenting the appearance of a town, situated on the left bank of the Glommen, the valley of which the train follows all the way to Items. The river is crossed by a long bridge. The im- portant Grundset-Ma'rked, a great horse and timber fair, takes place here annually in March. The environs of Elverum are strewn with pleasant-looking farms. The peasantry of the .Qste'rdal, or district traversed by the Glommen and its affluents, are among the richest in Norway, some of their forest-estates embracing an area of many square miles. Until recently the value of timber here was small, from lack of means of transport, but it has largely increased since the completion of the railway. The gaards of the wealthier landowners are most comfortably and even luxuriously fitted up, although their proprietors still adhere with pride to their original name of peasants or farmers (Gaardbruger). At the end of, June or begin- ning of July a number of these stalwart yeomen are frequently to be seen at Christiania, where it is not uncommon for a single pro- prietor to conclude a contract for the sale of a hundred thousand to Throndhjem. KOPPANG. 26. Route. 207 crowns’ worth of timber. The timber is felled in autumn and win- ter, during which seasons the hardy wood-cutters often spend weeks in the forest, in spite of the intense cold, passing the night in wretched little huts. Comp. Broch’s Kongeriget Norge (Christia- nia, 1876). The next stations are (164 Kil.) Grundset and (171 Kil.) Qcrna (660 ft.). Near (184 Kil.) Aasta the train crosses the river of that name. ‘ 190 Kil. (118 Rena (735 ft.; Rail. Restaurant), prettily situated near the church of Aamot, in the vicinity of which are ‘ several inns. 204 Kil. Stenm'lcen, where the train crosses to the E. bank of the Glommen (views to the left). 214 Kil. Ophus (805 ft.). To the right a precipitous wall of rock. The Glommen forms several lake-like expansions. Beyond (237 Kil.) Stai(860 ft.) the mountains enclosing the valley become higher. 247 Kil. (153 Koppang (914 ft.; *Hansen, 200 paces to the left of the egress from the station ; *Jernbane Hotel, opposite the station, R. 11/2, S. 11/2 kr. ; Koppang Hotel; Skydsstation, in the village, 10 min. distant), situated on a height above the river and commanding a good view of the valley. To the W., rising above the forests, are several lofty mountains, the tops of which are carpeted with yellow moss. The village of Vestgaa'rd, with the church of Store Elodal a little to the S. of it, is picturesquely situated on the opposite bank of the Glommen, about 10min. walk from the railway-station. The train now runs through the woods, at a considerable height/ above the Glommen, and crosses two bridges. Fine views towards the S. The ground is often completely covered with lichen and moss. The mountains increase in height, and the valley contracts. Large masses of ‘Epilobium’, a plant of which the roots and young shoots are eaten by the Norwegians, are seen here hung up to dry on hedges and frames. 272 Kil. (169 Atna (1170 ft.), near the mouth of the At- neelo, is the station for several gaards on the opposite bank. An interesting excursion may be taken hence (comp. p. 118) to the W. to Sollz'den and Atnebro (good quarters at the gaards Nwsset, Broen- den, Uta‘, and Traen), near the Atne-SJ'G, commanding an imposing view of the chief peaks of the Rondane: the Rondeslot (7100 ft.), the He- g-rond (67% ft.), the Stg/gfleld (6730 ft.), and the Rundvashegda (6900 ft.). These peaks may be ascended from Slramboden in the upper Atnedal, and through the Langglupdal. (Ola Slramboden, at the Sandro Guard of Stramboden is a. good guide.) —- From Stremboden a path leads across the hills to the Bjornhul-Soeter (good quarters), the Musu-Swter, and through the Uladal to the S. to Moen in the Gudbrandsdal (p. 119). —— A road leads from Atnebro to Strombu, Blwsterdalen (to the E. of which rises the Star-Satan or Dale Salen, 5800 ft.), and (33 Kil.) Krokhougen- Foldalen, on the road between Lille-Elvdal and Jerkin (p. 203). 285 Kil. (177-Engl. Hanestad (1250 ft.), opposite which, on the other side of the Glommen, rises the imposing Grattingbrat- , ten‘. The train skirts the river, and then again enters a monotonous 208 Route 26. THNSJET. From Christiania wooded district. At (304 Kil.) Ba'rkald (1485 ft.) the Glommen forms the Barkaldfos. In the distance rises the snow-clad Tron— fjeld; to the W. are high mountains covered with debris (Ur). Near Barkald is the curious gorge of Jutulhugget, enclosed on every side except the E., and formed, according to local tradition, by the attempt of a giant to divert the waters of the Glommen- into the Randal. 324 Kil. (201 Lille-Elvdal (1660 ft.; Rail. Restaurant), whence a road ascends the Elvdal to Je'rkin (p. 202). Near the railway is a new church. A bridge crosses the Glommen here, and there is another a little lower down. —— The train now skirts the base of the Tronfjeld (5720 ft.), a lofty mountain consisting of gabbro and serpentine rocks, which may be ascended from Lille- Elvdal, and commands an extensive view (carriage-road nearly the whole way to the top). It appears in its full grandeur as we leave it behind us. —— 337 Kil. Auma (1600 ft.). Near this point are large tracts of dead pine-trees, killed by the extreme cold of win- ter, when the thermometer sometimes sinks 600 Fahr. below zero. The scenery is very dreary. . 347 Kil. (215 Tensaet (1620 ft. ; *Jernbane Hotel, at the station; *Tensazt Hotel, 100 yds. to the right of the egress from the station), situated near the confluence of the Tennas and the Glommen, principally on the right bank of the latter. A good road with fast stations leads hence, via Koikne in the Orkladal (the birthplace of Bjemson, the novelist), to Austbje'rg (p. 204). Farther on the line traverses the extensive Godtlandsmyr. To the W., on the right side of the Tronfjeld, rise the summits of the Rondane (p. 207). 358 Kil. (222 Telnazs (1620 ft.). The train now ascends more rapidly, running high above the Glommen, which here breaks through barriers of slate. Pasturage now takes the place of tilled fields. 368 Kil. Tolgen (1685 ft.), in an open situation. On the other side of the Glommen, which is here spanned by a wooden bridge of a single arch, stands a large red church. To the right rises the Hummelfiield (5150 ft.). The vegetation now assumes a thoroughly Alpine character. 385 Kil. (240 M.) Os (1975 ft.); the village lies on a slope (Lid) on the opposite bank. Beyond ()s the train crosses the Nornenebv, traverses a wide moor. and reaches —- 399 Kil. (247 Rows or Remus (2060 ft. ; Larsen’s Hotel,- *Rail. Restaurant), with 2000 inhab., situated on a dreary and in— clement plateau, where winter prevails for fully eight months in the year. The town was founded in 1616 after the discovery of the neighbouring copper-mines, to which alone it owes its existence. It lies on the Hitterelv, and not far from the Glommen, which de- scribes a bend to the W. of the town. The old timber houses, with roofs of turf, and the large‘ church of 1780 give the‘ town a quaint and picturesque appearance. The railway—station, like the others to Throndhjem. 'TYVOLD. 26. Route. 209 on this line, is constructed in a rustic style to harmonise with the older buildings. Corn does not ripen here, and cattle-breeding is the only resource of the inhabitants, apart from the copper-mines and the trade they support. The annual yield of the mines is about 280 tons of pure copper, and that of the two centuries since they were discovered is said to have been worth 72 million kr. in all (4000,0001). Far and near, the woods which formerly existed here have been cut down and used asvfuel. but the works are now carried- on with the aid of coal brought by the railway. The principal mines are Storvarts Grube, 2716 ft. above the sea-level, 0 Kil. to the N.E., the ore of which yields 8 per cent of copper; near it, N31 Solskz'ns Grube; to the N.W. of the town. 1.4 Kil., Kongens Grube, yielding 4 per cent of copper; Mug G'rubc, 22 Kil. distant. The smelt- ing-works are the Rams Hytte, the Dragaas Hytte at Aaten, and the Lovisa Hytte at Lt'lle-Elvdal. From Reros, which is a terminal station, the train returns on the same rails for a few hundred yards to the main line (views to the left). It then passes Storskarven on the right, and traverses a bleak and monotonous plateau. The wide expanses of turf are bordered by extensive terraces of glacial detritus and sandh-ills. which by dint of painstaking and ample manuring have been con- verted into pastures. Near (406 Kil.) Nypladsen (2055 ft.) is the Kongens Grube, with the huts of the miners. Large piles of copper ore (Kobbermalm) are generally to be seen waiting for transport at the station. A little farther on is the site of an old furnace, marked by its deep copper colour. — We now cross the turbulent Glom— men, which descends from the Aursund-Sjo' (2154 ft.). Beyond (412 Kil.) Jensoold (2090 ft.), the train crosses large expanses of debris. A stone to the left marks the highest point of the railway (2200 ft.), on the watershed between the Glommen and the Gain, the latter of which flows N. to the Throndhjem Fjord. 420 Kil. (260 Tyvold (2180 ft.). The train descends cir- cuitously on the slope of a broad mountain basin. Beyond (432 Kil.) Reitan (1780 ft.) it passes on the left some picturesque gaards in the old Norwegian style, and traverses several cuttings through the rocks. Below, on the Gala, lies the'church of H01). 442 Kil. (274 Eidet (1385 ft.). At the bottom of the valley here is a small copper smelting-work. We now reach the most picturesque part of the line, and the traveller should take a seat in the open compartment at the end of the train. The train crosses the Dreilieme , passing through seven short tunnels, and enters the deep wooded ravine of the Brain, which it traverses by means of a lofty bridge. In. the cuttings we distinguish first the clay-state, and afterwards the granite and gneiss formations. 454 Kil. Holtaalen (990 ft.), prettily situated in the bottom of the valley, with an old timber-built church. The costume of the peasantry here is interesting, usually consisting of a red jacket, leathern breeches, and a Toplue or peaked woollen cap. We now descend the valley of the Gula to (463 Kil.) Langlete and (472 Kil.) Reitstam.(675 ft.). The scenery continues picturesque. BAEnEKER’s Norway ‘and Sweden. 2nd Edit. 14 210 Route 27. THRONDHJEM. 480 Kil. (298 Singsaas (545 ft. ; Restaurant), with a bridge over the Gula. Large terraces of debris to the left mark the en- trance of the Forradal. On the same side is a fine waterfall. -— 486 Kil. Bjargen (457 ft.), prettily situated. Three short tunnels. 499 Kil. Rognazs (300 ft.), with another bridge over the Gula. A little above Steren, to the left, lies the church of Engen, situated at the confluence of the Soknaelv and the Gula. We then cross the Gula and reach —— a 510 Kil. (316 M.) Steren (290 ft.; see p. 205), beautifully situated on the Gula. The scenery here presents a park-like appearance; the valley is well cultivated at places, and the rocky mountains enclosing it are partly wooded. Road from Stcren over the Dovrefjeld to the Gudbrandsdal, see R. 25. The remaining stations are unimportant. Beyond (517 Kil.) Ho'vin (170 ft.) the train crosses the river, which here forms the Gulefos. 524 Kil. Lundemo ; 530 Kil. Ler (80 ft.). We now quit the yalley of the Gula, which turns to the W. and flows into the Gulosen, an arm of the Throndhjem Fjord. The train ascends to (535 Kil.) Kvaal (160 ft.) and then re-descends to (538 Kil.) Seberg (40 ft.) and (541- Kil.) Melhus, with a picturesquely situated church. Numerous terraces and mounds of debris, probably due to glacier-action, are passed. Shortly before reaching Nypen, which is called at only by local trains, we obtain a fine view of the fjord, to the W. of Throndhjem. Between (551 Kil.) Hcimdal and (557 Kil.) Sluppen the train crosses the Nid by a bridge which commands a beautiful *View of Throndhjem and its amphitheatre of hills, with the Stenbjerg on the left, the Blazscvoldbakken on the right, and the fjord in the distance. The train again crosses the Nid and enters the small S. station of -— 560 Kil. (347 Throndhjem, see below. 27. Throndhjem and its Environs. ‘Det er saa favert in Throndhjem at hm'le‘ ‘Tis so pleasant in Throndhjem to dwell. (Burden of an Old Song.) Arrival. The station of the Soo'rn RAILWAY (R. 26) is situated to the S. of the town, near the cathedral; the station of the EAST RAILWAY (p. 218, and R. 49) lies to the N. of the town, by the harbour. Carriages and porters (Bybud) with hand-carts (Tm'ller) await the arrival of passen- gers at the railway-stations, and also at the quays at the mouth of the Nid near the Toldbod (Brataren) or on the Nykaie. A slight custom-house examination takes place on board the steamer. The principal hotels are all about 5-10 min. walk from the stations and the quay. , Hotels. *Bnr'rannm, Dronningens-Gade, R. from 1 kr. 60, L. 40, A. 40, B. or S. 1 kr. 40 5., D. 3 kr. *VICTOBIA, Dronningens-Gaden 64; *Hd'rm. d‘ANGLE'rExnE, Nordre Gade; BELLEVUE, adjoining the last,~commercial. Restaurants. Harmonie, Munke-Gade, at the corner of the Torvet. — Spirits cannot be obtained either in the hotels or restaurants (comp. p. 67). Post and Telegraph Offlce at the corner of the Nordre and Kongens-Gade. TH-RONDHJEM. 27. Route. 211 Skyds-Station; Ole Wold, Bersvendveiten. — Carriages: P. Rest, Carl—Johans-Gaden, and Kolberg, .O’rjaveiten, both near the Angleterre; 0._ Solberg, Apothekerveiten, at m‘the back of the Britannia; Ellefsen, Gau- bzekveiten. Banks. Norges Bank, at the corner of the Kongens-Gade and Kjflb- mands-Gade; Privatbank, Sandro Gade; Nordenfjelske Kredz'l-Bank, in the same street; and several others. Money may also be exchanged at Mr. Kjeldsberg’s, the English vice-consul, at the corner of the Strand-Gade and Sondre Gade, and at Mr. Claus Berg‘s (firm of Lundgrens Enlee), the American vice-consul, Munke-Gaden, at the corner of the Torv. The usual bank office-hours are 10-2 o‘clock. Consuls. English and American, see above. German, A. Jenssen, junr., Kjebmands-Gaden; French, H. Lundgren, same street; Austrian, Ch. Toulow, Munke-Gaden. Also Danish, Russian, and others. Baths. Warm, shower, vapour and Turkish baths in the new Bath House, at the corner of the Dronningens-Gade and Krambodveiten. — Sea Baths, on the breakwater, reached by boat from the N. end of the Munke-Gade. Shops. Preserved meats, biscuits, wines, spirits, etc. at Kjeldsberg‘s and at Lundgrens Enke’s (see above). A cheap and not unpalatable spirit in great local repute is that of the distillery of Lgsholm, Strand—Gade. — Furs at J. N. Bruun’s, Strand-Gade 37, one of the best shops of the kind in Norway; eider-down 16-24 kr. per 1b., according to quality. _- Carved wood, ‘Tolleknive", etc. at Blilcstad‘s, opposite the Victoria Hotel. —— Booksellers: Stafl'rt' Gramm, Nordre Gade (also Northern antiquities); A. Brun, Kongens-Gade. — Photographs at Brockslad’s, Sendre-Gade. Newspapers at the Athenaeum Club, in the Harmonie building, at the S.W. corner of the Torv (introduction through a member), and in the Reading Room of the Britannia Hotel. Theatre and Concert Room, at the corner of Prindsens-Gade and Vestre-Gade. — The Hjorten, a ‘Lyststed‘ or kind of ‘Tivoli‘, at the W. end of the Ihlen suburb, is a popular resort (theatricals and music fre- quently in summer). steamboats. All the steamboats start from the pier (Brateren) at the mouth of the Nid, the larger generally at high tide only, the smaller at any time. It should be noted that the larger vessels sometimes start from the pier before their time and cast anchor off Ihlen, the W. suburb. The principal services are at present the following (comp. Communica- tioner). Towards the S.: to Christs'ansund on Sun., Tues., and Thurs. mornings; to Christiansund and Bergen on Thursdays; to Ch'l'z'stiansund, Bergen, and Christiansand every third Thurs. (afternoon); the same and on to Christiania on Tues. afternoon and every third Wed. (afternoon); to Hamburg on Sat. afternoons; to Hull on alternate Thursdays. —- Towards the N.: to Tromsa, Hammerfest, the North Cape, and Varde on Wed., Thurs, and Sat., the Wed. steamer going on to Vadse. -— In the FJORD: to firkedalsaren on Mon., Wed., and Frid. morning and Sat. afternoon; to Bejan once every morning and twice every afternoon except Friday; to Levanger and Vazrdalsaren on Sun. and Thurs. morning; to Stenkjaar on Mon., Wed., and Sat. morning. ——All the coasting and local steamers stop at numerous stations. The above services are of course liable to alteration. ’ English Church Service in summer in the Chapter House of the Cathedral. Points of Interest. Cathedral (p. 214); walks to Chrt'stiansten on the E. side of the town (p. 216), and to the Stenbjerg to the S.W. —- A fa- vourite excursion is to the Lerfos (31/2-4 hrs. there and back). Of all the larger towns in Europe Throndhjem, with 22,600 in- hab., is the northernmost, being situated in 63°30’ N. lat., or in a line with the S. coast of Iceland. It lies on a peninsula at the mouth of the Nid, and on the N. bank of the very extensive and picturesque fjord called after it. The vegetation of the beautiful 14* 212 Route 27. THRONDHJEM. Situation. undulating environs is remarkably rich for so northern a latitude, and among the trees fine old walnuts occur frequently. The mean annual temperature is about 42° Fahr. (corresponding with the mean winter temperature of the S. coasts of England and Ire— land), while that of Christiania is 41° only (that of the Shetland Islands 45°). Christiania, on the other hand, is warmer in summer and colder in winter, the July temperature being 62° and that of -¢> 15,-‘Ti J / ' \// .. . ° - \., = , ftxol ‘ s.’ , i§ >\%\\lltl/////////Z \, _ ' , \'\\\\ t-I~ 'd‘\\ I h ‘ I . §\W///// a "" l/ ,- ‘iih'r‘r ' ' \\\'m » . . \ 7* Q P \Qxl'lfl/mm‘“ . l - . "4"’ .1 ‘ i: "* _.________—::_____. -// _\ I. I‘ x, _ g _"_3\\\\\\‘/(// ' a _ m/I»'""’"3 l\ ,v' I , "L l 1,)“ ' --a___=_-_-f7-, ,f. j . _ .. “ “15473.; /;;IE I / ' fig’- : " w ‘ $57 ,Iy/ -- _ \ I ' \ ' - v ’,- /:/ ;"-1 l \\~..\\‘.g—___ w . ;,/-.t/ H» “Milly/[g e 5 .\ P \ .4: ‘ I [131/1] :2- . ,2 ‘Q ,1 .- ~ . — _._ " .. tun/{start é—lir-g‘ '\ Z I Quill)“ :- ' ’ ’ 4’)\\\\\1\\\\\\\§ 1’4/ . .\ ‘9%’ l. i attummlm§ / m. \ ' 0"" §¥ . i’fln'.\\\§‘ ~- \ "/Ir.'l,\\\§ \l ./\\_ it ~= ‘ a,» w //’" ~ ~ '’ . ' -:-e s é- 1" - ' ' ‘- 1‘- {fan I, E _ / ,.--C .5 ‘I I‘ 4 _:' . ‘lg ‘1e '/// - s‘ 51*. '~’ ‘0’ ~\ /- ‘ _..\;\\\\\_~-.\\rl.{ ”a $- 0 "7” 4 My 1 " a -->" 9» 49h.» "awn \ I, an l I '//l. _ v a Z 3 1 >~§§¢Y "\‘c? ' I \“ (W -~\\\\\\\\\l ‘\_ ‘umillltl‘l “HO, A z; % ‘ l---” I’ - ‘\‘h'll'ilfi _L4mr\r -' .._:__ a 1.x- ._-_ 1;;1- a: ‘- 1 - 32...: Kilometor 1=ioo.ooo ° ‘* ' Engl. M118 Throndhjem 53° only. Many of the inhabitants are wealthy and prosperous, and they have long been noted for the kindliness of their disposition. _ The town is the capital of the district of Threndelagen, and its inhabitants are called ‘Thrender’. The greater part of it lies on the Ntdarmes, a peninsula resembling a fig in shape, formed by the fjord on the N. side and the circuitous course of the Nid on History. THRONDHJEM. 27. Route. 213 the S.W. , S. , and E. sides. At a bend of the river to the W., where it approaches within a few hundred paces of the fjord be— fore making its final sweep round the town, lies the suburb of [Men (probably from Ile, ‘an intrenchment’). Opposite, on the right bank of the river, is the peninsula called Gen. The Nid then falls into the fjord at Bratm'en on the E. side of the town. Beyond its mouth, to the E., rises the suburb of Baklandet (‘hilly land’), with picturesque heights beyond it, the chief of which is the Biase- voldbakken (p. 216), with the old fortress of Ohristiansten, termina- ting in the promontory of Hladehamme'ren. On the S.W. side of the town, to the S. of lhlen, rises the Stcnbjerg (p. 210). All these heights command picturesque views. The town is regularly and on the whole handsomely built, al- though chiefly of timber. The wideness of the streets, which gen- erally intersect each other at right angles, is intended to diminish the danger of fire. The windows of many of the houses are embell- ished with a beautiful show of flowers. In the Kongens-Gade are several tastefully -kept little gardens, where the Sorbus Scandia frequently recurs. Down to the middle of the 16th cent. the name of the town was Nidaros (‘mouth of the river Nid‘; Aa, Aar, signifying ‘river, and Os, ‘estuary‘) or Kaupangerz' Thrdndhjem (‘merchants‘ town in Throndlgem’), after which period the present name came into general use. Like psala in Sweden, Throndhjem, which has been called the Lstrength and heart of the country‘, may be regarded as the cradle of the kingdom of Norway, and it was on Bratoren here that the Norwegian monarchs were usu- ally elected and crowned. Here. too, was the meeting-place of the famous Erething. So early as the year 996 Olaf Tryggvason founded a palace to the S. of Bratoren and a church which he dedicated to St. Clement. St. Olaf, who is regarded as the founder of the town (1016), revived the plans of Olaf Tryggvason, which had fallen into abeyance after his death, and after the death of ‘the saint” at the battle of Stiklestad (1030) a new impulse was given to building enterprise. His remains were brought to Throndhjem and buried there, but were soon afterwards transferred to a. reliquary and placed on the high-altar of St. Clement‘s Church, where they attracted hosts of pilgrims, not only from other parts of Norway, but even‘ from foreign countries. The spot Where St. Olaf was originally bu- ried was by the spring adjoining the S. side of the choir of the present cathedral, and on that site a magnificent church was subsequently erected. Though now little more than a fragment, having been repeatedly de— Sttoyed by fire and sadly disfigured by alterations and additions, it is still the most beautiful and interesting church in the three Scandinavian kingdoms. The reverence paid to St. Olaf gradually rendered Thrond- hjem one of the largest and wealthiest towns in Norway, and gave rise to the erection of no fewer than fourteen churches and five monasteries. At a later period terrible havoc was caused by civil wars, pestilence, and conflagrations, and the pilgrimages, to which the place owed so much of its prosperity, were at length put an end to by the Reformation. The precious reliquary of the saint was removed by sacrilegious hands from the altar in the octagon of the choir, while his remains were buried in some unknown spot, and most of the churches and monasteries were swept away. In .1796 the population numbered 7500 souls only, and in 1815 not above 10,000. Since the Peace of 1814 Throndhjem has rapidly grown in size and wealth , and it bids fair to become a city of still greater im- 214 Route 27. THRONDHJEM. Cathedral. .portance through the new railway to Ostersund and Sundsvall in Sweden (see p. 218 and R. 49), as its fjord forms the natural har- bour for a great part of the Swedish ‘Norrland’. In anticipation of a large increase of traffic a new Harbour and Railway Station have been constructed on the N. side of the town. The *Cathedral, situated on the S. side of the town, near the Nidelv and the present railway-station, has for several years been undergoingathorough and judicious restoration under the superin- tendence of the architect Hr. Christie, and the chapter-house (Eng- lish service in summer) and the octagonal choir are now completed. The work will probably extend over several decades, but will doubtless progress steadily, as annual subsidies are granted both by government and by the town itself, and regular subscriptions are received from private persons who are justly proud of this noble national monument. The church is shown daily, 12-1 o’clock, by a student (no fee ; but strangers are expected to make a small donation towards the restoration-fund). At any other time the sacristan may be applied to for admission, and visitors may some- times enter unattended whilst the masons are at work. The con- nection and history of the different parts of the building are not easily understood without the aid of a guide , especially if the traveller visits it only once. Those who possess amoderate acquain- tance with Danish will find Nicolaysen’s ‘Om Throndhjems Dom- kirke’ (60 0., sold in the cathedral) a useful little guide, or they may consult P. A. Munch’s larger work on the same subject, or the German work of Minutoli. — The first point to be borne in mind is that the building of the church extended over a century and a half, and that it underwent repeated alteration. The architects were, moreover, bound to the site of St. Olaf’s original burial- place, for it was there that they had to erect the altar destined for the reliquary containing the holy man’s remains. The church originally built by Olaf Kyrre was a simple basilica, about 150 ft. in length and 40 ft. in width. Throndhjem having been erected into an archbishopric in1151, the crowds of pilgrims continued to increase, and the church was found inadequate for their require- ments. Eystein (or Qystein, 1161-88), the third of the arch- bishops, accordingly erected the spacious Transept, with a tower over it, and also the *Chapter House (in which he lies buried) on the N. side of the choir, both in the Romanesque style. Of the appearance of the choir at that period nothing is known, but within a few decades after Eystein’s death it was rebuilt, partly by English architects in an ornate Gothic style resembling that of several of the English cathedrals, and ‘was completed about the year 1240. To that period belongs the exquisite **Octagon or apse (which recalls ‘Becket’s Crown’ at Canterbury), forming an independent part of the edifice, and not being merelyaprojecting termination to the choir. It was on an altar in the centre of this Cathedral. THRONDHJEM. 27. Route. 215 sanctuary that the revered relics of St. Olaf were placed, and this was the great goal once so devoutly sought by thousands of pil- grims. The reliquary, executed in silver, and weighing no less than 2001bs., stood here within a simple wooden chest, which in its turn was encased in a finely carved shrine, enriched with pre- cious stones. The reliquary and shrine were carried off to Copen- hagen at the time of the Reformation, and the worthless chest alone left behind. During the third building period, extending from about 1248 to 1300, the imposing Navn, to the W. of the transept, was erected, also in the Gothic style. This part of the church is now in ruins, while the transept (used for divine service, and at present sadly marred by Reformation work) and the choir are both roofed in. The whole church was about 325 ft. long, and the W. end was once richly embellished with statues of saints, a rose-window, and other ornamentation, but few traces of these now remain. After a number of fires which injured the interior of the cathedral (in 1328, 1432, 1531, 1708, and 1719), huge and shapeless walls were erected, partly for the purpose of propping up the ruins, and partly in order to obtain an available space for public wor- ship. In the course of that process many of the original pillars, arches, and ornamentation were concealed from view, and it is now a work of great difficulty to disengage them. The cathedral is built of a bluish chlorite slate, with which the white marble columns contrast admirably. The old quarries from which the former was procured lie about 11/2 Engl. M. to the E. of Baklan- det, while the marble was brought from the quarries of Stoksund (p. 226). On the E. side of the S. transept is the Chapel of St. John the Baptist, in the round-arch style, dating from Eystein‘s period, and containing the monument of Thomas Angell (d. 1767), a wealthy benefactor of Thrond- hjem. On the E. side of the N. transept, immediately to the left of the present N. entrance to the church, is a corresponding chapel of the same period. Above the chapel of St. John, is another (reached by a stair- case), dedicated to St. Olaf, and now containing a number of interesting fragments of ancient tombstones found in and around the church , all in soapstone (Klwbersten). In the 18th cent. the Lagthing, or national as- sembly, used to meet in the S. transept. - The highly ornate chapels of the choir are also worthy of careful inspection. The rich mouldings of the triforium windows are all diiferent, and most elaborately executed; but some of them were left unfinished by their 13th century sculptors and still remain in that condition. On the 8‘. side of the octagon is -- St. Olaj‘s Well, which most probably gave rise to the selection of this site for the church, having, according to tradition, burst forth at the spot where the king was originally buried. -— Good photographs of the cathe- dral are sold in the S. chapel, the proceeds being paid to the building fund. In the 11th and 12th centuries the cathedral was the burial-place of the kings of Norway, and several were crowned here at a later period. By the present constitution of Norway (that of 1814) all the sovereigns of the country are required to repair to Throndhjem to be crowned in the cathedral; and the ceremony was accordingly performed in the case of Charles XIV. John (Bernadotte) in 1818, Oscar I. in 1844, Charles XV. in 1860, and Oscar II. in 1873. 216 Route 27. THRONDHJEM. Environs. To the S. of the cathedral is the pleasing Churchyard, many of the graves in which, in accordance with the Norwegian custom, are adorned with fresh flowers every Saturday. Adjacent is the Arsenal, which occupies the site of the old Kongs Gaard and of the residence of the archbishops, and which contains an interesting collection of old Norwegian weapons (adm. on application to the sentinel). The other churches in Throndhjem are that of St. Mary (Vor Frue Kirlce) in the Kongens-Gade , a small promenade adjoining which (called ‘Parken') is embellished with a statue (by Bergslten, 1876) of Tordenslcjotd (d. 1720), the famous admiral, who was born at Throndhjem; then the Hospital Church, at the W. end of the Kongens-Gade, and the Bakhe Ktrlce in Baklandet (whence there is a Flat or ferry to Bratoren). At Ihlen there is a new Roman Catholic Church. Among the public buildings may be mentioned the large tim- ber-built Stiftsretsgaard in the Munke-Gade, part of which is occu- pied by the ‘Stiftsamtmand’, and part fitted up as a royal palace. At the S.W. corner of the Torv is the large building now occupied by the Harmonie and Athenae'um clubs (p. 211). In the Munke- Gade is also situated the Kathedratskote, which contains the va- luable library (50,000 vols.) and the antiquarian collections of Throndhjems Larde Setskab, a scientific society founded in 1760, of which Schoning, Suhm, Gunnerus, and other distinguished scholars were once members. It is now partly supported by an annual subsidy of 4000 kr. from government. — In the Kongens- Gade, on the S. side, are the Sparbanlc, or Savings Bank, and the handsome building of the Arbeider-Forenz'ng, containing a concert- room and cafe. ENvmoNs. T o the E. of the town rises the fortress of Christi- ansten (reached in 20 min. by crossing the Nid by the bridge and ascending the hill beyond), erected in the 17th cent., but now disused. It commands an excellent survey of the town and fjord, and a still flner view is obtained from the *Btoesevotdbalclcen behind it. ——- Turning to the left beyond the Nid bridge, we may walk or drive through the suburb of Balctandet, crossing the Meraker railway (p. 218), to (11/2 Engl. Htadehammeren (Hammer, ‘pro- montory’), another good point of view. Another fine view, differing from these, is obtained from a rocky height to the S. of Ihlen, where the remains of the castle of Soerresborg, built in the 12th cent., were discovered in 1873. This point is reached from lhlen by following the road along the Nid and then ascending to the right, or by the broad road ascend- ing from the S.W. angle of lhlevolden, passing the *Tolastagaard on the left, which also commands aiine view of the fjord and the town with its picturesque red roofs. The Btyberg, opposite the Sverresborg, commands a still more extensive view. ' . Environs. THRONDHJEM. 27. Route. 217 A pleasant walk may be taken to the W. by ascending from Ihlen to the left to the Gjetfjetd , and proceeding high above the fjord and past several substantial gaards, to (1-11/2 hr.) the *Mun- ka'une and the (20 min.) iron-works of Trollabrug. The whole of this walk is very picturesque, and the promontory of Ho'v'ringcn commands an admirable view of the mountains to the In the fjord, to the N. of the town, and about 1 Engl. M. dis- tant, lies the picturesque Munkholm (reached by boat in 20 min. ; fare 11/2-2 kr., but a bargain should be made; no permission ne- cessary; visitors are attended by one of the soldiers). As its name imports, the island was once the site of a monastery, founded in 1028, of which the lower part of a round tower is now the only relic. Count Peter Gri/Tenfetd (P. Schuhmacher), the minister of Christian V., was confined in a cell here from 1680 to 1698, and shortly after his release died at Throndhjem. The island is de- scribed by Victor Hugo in his ‘Han d’Islande’. The walls of the small fortress which now stands here command a beautiful view, and contain some interesting old guns and gun-carriages. On the S.W. side is a small lighthouse. EXCURSIONS. A favourite excursion from Throndhjem is to the *Lerfos, a fall of the Nid, to the S. of the town. There are two falls of the name, both worthy of a visit, the Lower, about 41/2 Engl. M. distant, and the Upper, 1 M. higher up. (Carriage with one horse there and back 5, with two horses 12 kr. ; or by train to Sluppen in 9 min., and thence to the E. through the gaard of that name to the high-road; after 10 min., by a house where the road divides, we turn to the right and reach the lower fall in about 20 min. more.) The pleasant road from Throndhjem to the Lerfos crosses the Byb'rO, or bridge over the Nid, and turns to the right; it then leads nearly in a straight direction to the lower fall, towards the S. (avoid turns to the right and left). The Lower or Lille Ler/‘os is a fine unbroken fall of 80 ft. in height, which is best viewed from the rocks below it on the right bank. To reach the upper fall, we may either follow the bank of the Nid (rough walking), or return to the cart-track which cuts off the bend form- ed by the river. In 20 min. more we reach the *Upper or Store Ler/‘os, about 100 ft. in height, and broken by amass of rock about halfway across. The best survey of it is obtained from one of the windows in the saw-mill overhanging the seething waters on the right bank (caution necessary). Excursions may also be taken to the ruins of the nunnery of Rein, near the steamboat-station Redbjerget, to the N.W. of Throndhjem; t0 the ruined monastery of Tautra on the Tuttere; to Gaard Hsteraat, near the steamboat-station Bejan, at the en- trance to the fjord, on the N. bank, a place famed in the annals of Norway (the scene of the drama ‘Fru Inger til flstraat’ by Henrik Ibsen, whose ‘Kongsemneme’ is also partly enacted in and 218 Route 27. THRONDHJEM. near Throndhjem) ;- or lastly to the large island of Hitteren, famed for its deer, near which some of the cannon and stores of a Russian man-of-war wrecked here in the 18th cent. have recently been recovered by divers. Several of the cannon are now placed on the harbour at Throndhjem. An EXCURSION TO THE SELBO-SJB' takes two days. On the first day we go by railway to Hez'mdal (p.210), and drive thence across the Skjela Pass to Teigen (18 Kil., pay for 27), at the W. end of the Sselbo-Sjfl (525 ft.), a fine sheet of water, 29 Kil. (18 Engl. M.) in length, on which a small steamboat plies thrice weekly in summer. At the SE. end of the lake lies Marienborg, with the church of Soelbo, whence a road ascends the pretty and well-tilled Tydal. In the winter of 1718 the greater part of the Swedish army was frozen to death on the Tg/dalsflelde when on their retreat from Throndhjem. - FROM THRONDHJEM TO STORLIEN (Ostersund,Stockholm), 106 Kil. (66 Engl. M.), railway (Merake'rbane) in 5 hrs. (fares 5 kr. 84, 3 kr. 46 en). The station lies to the N. of the town, by the harbour, which the line crosses. —— The train passes the church of Lade on the left, and beyond (3 Kil.) Leangen the lunatic asylum of Rot- oold, also on the left. Soon after it reaches the fjord, here called the Strindenfiord, farther on the Stjardalsfjord. 7 Kil. Ranheim; 15 Kil. Malvik; 23 Kil. Hommelviken, the centre of a considerable trade in timber. The train now passes through a short tunnel, and reaches — 32 Kil. (20 Engl. M.) Hell, at the mouth of the Stjerdalsel'v, across which a bridge leads to the skyds-station of Sandferhus (p. 219) on the opposite bank. The line now runs inland, along the left bank of the Stjardalselv. 42 Kil. Hegre, near the con- fiuence of the Form, which descends from the N., with the Star- dalselv. 57 Kil. Floren ,- 72 Kil. Gudaa (280 ft.), where the Reinaa is crossed. The train passes through a tunnel and ascends rapidly, crossing the Sterdalselv, to —— 81 Kil. (50 Meraker (720 ft.), a thriving and prettily situated little town, the last station in Norway. Beyond Meraker, near which there is an old copper-mine, the line continues to ascend rapidly. The district is sparsely peopled, and the vegeta- tion also becomes scantier. The Areskuta and other snow-moun— tains of Sweden appear in the distance. The train at last crosses the Swedish frontier, 1950 ft. above the sea-level, and reaches — 106 Kil. (66 M.) Storlien, the junction for the railway to Stock- holm (R. 49). 28. Inland Route from Throndhjem to Namsos. About 200 Kil. or 125 Engl. M. Travellers visiting the Nordland (R. 29) will find the first day’s voyage along the coast (16-18 hrs.) very uninteresting, and are recommended to vary their journey by taking the Throndhjem Fjord route to Namsos (2 days). This part of the journey may be performed either by driving the whole way along the fjord (fast . “<\\\\ \\ \r W ,. \\ g W, V p, \\ v’ \ \‘ ‘~\‘ \\ 3M“, “(Ni v \\ \\\ ‘ a}, ‘ \\\_ \ \ \ ~\ \ . \\\\Q a \ \\\\\ " \ .. \ \ 0 I . 2 ans-1 \“ji .\ 5X‘ . 1 ~‘ .\ \\ ~‘ \ ‘\ . I \ \\ :_ \ r " “ ash . <\\. . \\l§\‘\\ Rh) ‘ \ it). \ | I I.‘\\ \ x, ' i \\ \ ‘ ‘~ . L} be‘; ‘i ‘\K K‘ \\ - r s. x. ‘ . \p M " \ \ “T l" or c 9 c c c 90 .1 -.‘l 'V - if ,.~ " a‘ ‘A . "'\.. " LEVANGER. 28. Route. 219 stations) or by taking the steamboat to Levanger or Slenkjoer and then driving the rest of the way to Namsos. Steamers start for (41/2-6l/2 hrs.) Levanger five times weekly, and go on to (10-12 hrs.) 'Skenkjeer thrice weekly. The road between those two stations is, however, so pictur- esque, that driving is much preferable to the steamboat journey. On the STBAMBOAT JOURNEY from Throndhjem to Stenkjaer the traveller has the advantage of seeing something of the picturesque rocky W. bank of the Throndhjem Fjord, which is scarcely visible from the land-route. The steamer steers between the Tuttero and the mainland (Frosten) on the E. to Holmberget, and across the fjord to the N.W. to Lezvviken. It then recrosses to Elcne on the E. bank, whence it steers to the large island of Yttero (with the parish of Eid). At the station Hokstad on this island are extensive mines of pyrites. The vessel then steers to Levanger (see below), which it reaches in 41/2-61/2 hrs. according to the number of stations called at. The next steamboat-stations are Skaancrs, Troncrs, Hylla, and Sundnaas, on the peninsula of Indore, on the E. side of which is the strait of Strommen, leading into the picturesque Borgenfijord , on which rises the church of Mare. The steamer, however, does not enter this bay of the Throndhjem Fjord. Strgmmen is a skyds-station. Thence to the S. to +Vce-rdalsm'en 14 Kil.; to the N. to 1-Korsen, on the Indero, 11 Kil., and to i-Stenkjcer 11 Kil. more. The steamboat steers to the W. to Kjazrring'vik, and through the narrow Skarnsund on the W. side of the Indore, touches at Vennces, and enters the broad Beitstadfiord, the innermost recess of the Throndhjem Fjord. It then either proceeds direct to Sten- kjaer (p. 220), via Krogsvaagen, or steers into a narrow ramification of the Beitstadfjord to the N. to Mal-mo and Fosnws, and thence to Stenkjaer. From the skyds-station of Hstoik, near Fosnaes, the traveller may drive to Elden and Namsos (p. 220). Roan FROM THRONDHJEM T0 NAMSOS. If the traveller wishes to see the Throndhjem Fjord, but not to go beyond it , he is recommended to drive from Throndhjem to Stenkjaer, and return thence by steamboat. The scenery on the land-route surpasses that which is viewed from the steamer. All the stations are fast (horse and carriole). The Meraker railway (p. 218) may be used as far as Hell, near Sandferhus. ' 16 Kil. j-Haugan, with fine views of the Stardalsfjord. The road crosses the Stardalselv. 16 Kil. j‘ Sandferhus; 10 Kil. (pay for 11) TForbord (well spoken of). The road now leads along the Aasen- fjord to (12 Kil.) “fVordal and (14 Kil.) j'Nordre Slcjeroe, in the picturesque district of Skogn, which , with those of Vazrdalen and Indherred farther on, forms the inner part of Threndelagen. The parsonage of Alvstahaug is passed on this stage. 11 Kil. jLevanger (Madam Baklund’s Hotel), a small town with 1000 inhab., which was almost entirely burned down in December, 1877, but has since been rebuilt, is charmingly situated. Fnom LEVANGER 'ro SWEDEN. The road is good and the stations are 220 Route 28. NAMSOS. all fast, but the food and accommodation they afford is generally very poor. 14 Kil. (pay for 15) +Noes; 11 Kil. {Gar-noes,- 19 Kil. -l-Sulstuen (good station). The road now crosses the St. Olaf's Bro, a picturesque Nor- wegian bridge over the Inna, which descends from the [mac (1640 ft.) Then (15 Kil.) Sandviken. The first Swedish station is (17 Kil.) Malen, whence a steamboat plies twice weekly on Lake Anjan (1455 ft.) to Anjehem. Then by road to (3 Kil.) Sun/det; steamer on the Kallsjo' (1317 ft.) to _Boniiset; road to Kvt'ttsle, 44 Kil., steamer on the Stor-by'o' (1000 ft.) to Cstersund (comp. p. 366). —— From HUSCOlbT'Uk on the Kallsjo' the *jreskutan may be ascended (comp. p. 367). 12 Kil. Val'rdalse'ren, at the mouth of the Vazrdalselv, which descends from a most picturesque valley. About 0 Kil. distant is Stiltlestad, famous in the annals of Norway, where St. Olaf fell on 29th July 1030. The precise date is fixed by the fact that an eclipse of the sun took place on that day. The church of Vaerdalen occupies the spot where the king is said to have fallen. Near it are two Monuments in memory of the event, one of 1710 and an- other of 180:). 14 Kil. {rites-Ice. The scenery continues picturesque. 15 Kil. Tstenkjaar (Thorbje/rnsen’s Hotel), a small town with 1500 inhab., on the Byelv, is the terminus of the steamboat- route above mentioned. The *Fz'skumfos may be visited from Stenkjeer, leither by a direct road, or by taking the steamboat. (4 times weekly) from Sande on the *Snaasenvand (58 ft.) to Sem, and driving thence. The stations by road, all fast, are: 15 Kil. +Langhammer, 8 Kil. 1-Kvam, 15 Kil. rflstre Hegge, 15 Kil. ~l-Ned1'e Vekset, 6 Ki]. ~l-Sem (“Station), 8 Kil. 1~Homo, 11 Kil. -l~Vz'e, 11 Kil. -l-Fosland, 17 Kil. Fiskum (see p. 221). —— On the Snaasenvand, a beautiful sheet of Water 28 Eng]. M. long, the principal stations are Sande, Grernnws, Klingen, K'vam, Klervgaard, Hammer, Oldernres, Vekset, and Sew. '15 Kil. w'fgstm'lc (good quarters) lies on the northernmost bay of the Beitstadfjord. The road now quits the fjord of Throndhjem, and crosses an Eid or isthmus, about 200 ft. high, to the Namsen- fjord. 15 Kil. 'i‘Elden. 12 Kil. v{-Overqaarol lies on the Namsenfjord or Lyngenfjord. 17 Kil. qLFjar; 11 Kil. 'Irspillum, near the Namsenelv. (Or by water from Overgaard to TBangsund 22 Kil., and thence by road to Spillum 11 Kil.) From Spillum the road leads to the Stremshylden Ferry (6 Kil.), whence we cross the fjord by boat to (3 Kil.) _— Namsos (A. Jensen’s Hotel), charmingly situated on the N. bank of the estuary of the Namsenelv. The town was almost entirely burned down in 1872, but has since been rebuilt. A wood on the hills to the W. of the town was also destroyed by the same tire. The new Church stands on a rocky height in the middle of the town. The staple commodity of the place is timber. —— The richly wooded Namsdal, containing 8000 inhab., is very pictur- esque, the scenery improving as we ascend. —— Two or three of the large coasting steamers touch at N amsos weekly , both on the outward and homeward voyage (comp. p. 227). Excnnsros TO THE FISKUMFOS. This most interesting excursion _is made either from Spillum, or from Namsos, the roads uniting near Hun. The Namsenelv, through the valley of which the road ascends, is considered NORDLAND. - 29. Route. 221 one of the best salmon-rivers in Europe, and is accordingly far famed among anglers. The fishings are always let to English sportsmen, and are jealously preserved. The stations from +Namsos are: 15 Kil. -l-Hun, 11 Kil. +Haugurn, 17 Kil. +Vz'e (Inn, at great fishing station), 11 Kil. -l-Fos- land, 17 Kil. Fz'skum. The last stage is through a magnificent ravine. The "‘Fiskumfos, a most imposing fall, with a copious volume of water, is 100 ft. in height. This is the upper limit of the salmon-fishings. The route from Fz'skum to Vefsen up the Namsdal, and past the Store Mat-vand, is attended with serious privations, and is by no means recom— mended. The scenery is wild and great, but not sufficiently interesting to repay the fatigue. 29. From Throndhjem to Bode and the Lofoden Islands. Province of Nordland. PRELIMINARY REMARKS. The vessels of two different steamboat companies, the Bergenske og Nordenfjetske Dampskibs-Selskab and the Bergensk-Nordtandske Dampskibs-Selskab, ply to the northern provinces of Nordland and Finmarken. The flrst- named company despatches two steamers weekly, one from Christiania and one from Hamburg, while the steamers of the other company, which are said to be the more comfortable, leave Bergen once weekly. Most trav- vellers bound for these northern regions start from Throndhjem, which the Hamburg steamer leaves on Wed., the Bergen and Chris- tiania steamers on Sat. (comp. the Communicationer). The voyage from Throndhjem to Bode takes about 2 days, that to Tromse about 4, to Hammerfest 5, and to Vadse 7-8 days. The steamers start on the homeward voyage on the day after their arrival. All these vessels spend 1-2 days at Bergen and at Throndhjem on each voyage, a break which passengers will hail with satisfaction in fine weather, but which will as often be found irksome, espe- cially at Bergen, should the weather there happen to be in one of its proverbially rainy moods. Most travellers will therefore prefer to proceed to Throndhjem over land, either exploring some of the magnificent mountain and fjord scenery by the way, or travelling direct thither by railway. Even beyond Throndhjem every possible opportunity should be taken of breaking the voyage by excursions on land; and a voyage to any distant station and‘ back by the same steamer should by all means be avoided. A protracted voyage among the fjords is often productive of a kind of physical and mental lethargy, which sadly mars the traveller’s enjoyment and is‘ not easily shaken off, while the confinement, the not unfrequent overcrowding and want of ventilation, and the daily round of meals at the table d’hote are very apt to become irksome. It is a very common mistake to suppose that the northern districts of Norway can be visited by water only. Many ‘of the principal points . are indeed accessible by water only , but there is no lack of inland excursions, especially for those accustomed to walking or riding, and note few of the chief objects of interest lie at some distance from the steamboat-track.~ In order to diversify his journey , the- 222 Route 29. NORDLAND. From Throndhjem traveller is recommended to land at several of the best points for excursionising, and either spend a few days at each and go on 'by the next steamer, or continue his journey by inland routes and local steamers. BREAKS IN THE VOYAGE. Among the more interesting bre’aks may be mentioned: —- *1. Journey by Land from Throndhjem, or from Vardalseren, to Namsos; visit to the Fiskumfos (see R. 28). *2. Visit to the Torghrrtta from Somnazs or Brenesund (p. 228). 3. Visit from Vigholmen to the Ranenfjord, and perhaps also to the Dunderlandsdal, and thence to the N. to the Saltenfjord or Beierenfiord (pp. 231, 230). 4. Excursion to the Hestmandsa from Indre Kvare, or from Selsevig (p. 232). 5. From Grena to the glacier of Svarlisen (see p. 233). 6. From Bode to the Saltenfiord (by steamboat) and to the Sulitjelma (reached from Fuske in 2-21/2 days; pp. 236, 237). *7. From Bode to the N.W. to the Lofoden Islands, a magni- ficent trip of five days (p. 237). 8. From Ledingen to the Ofotenfjord, as an extension of the excursion to‘ the Lofoden Islands and Vesteraalen. 9. From Seveien, in the interior of the Salangenfjord, by a good road through the Barduelvsdal and Maalselvsdal to the Rostavand, and to Maalselv on the M alangenfjord; thence by a rough road. to the Balsfiord and the Lyngenfjord (pp. 246—252). a *10. From Tromse to the Tromsdal with its herds of reindeer, and, if possible, thence to the Lyngenfiord (pp. 250-252). *11. Visit to Tyoen from Hammerfest (p. 254). *12. The ascent of the North Cape (p. 258) is now usually ac- complished during the halt of a few hours made by the steamers for the purpose. Or the traveller may spend a few days at Gjesvazr on the W., or at Kjelvz'k on the E. side. From Kjelvik a visit may easily be paid to Scazrholt (p. 260). 13. Travellers who proceed as far as Vadse should return by land to the Tanafjord (p. 262), and join the steamer there. The main question, how far to go, must of course depend on many considerations. Vadse is undoubtedly a very definite ter- minus, and the Porsanger, Laxe, and Tana fjords, and above all the Kjellefjord and Nordkyn, situated between the North Cape and Vadse, are well worthy of a visit. But the North Cape itself forms the most natural limit to the journey. Europe there termi- nates, and the Arctic regions begin; and there, too, the sublime scenery of the Norwegian coast may be said to culminate, as that of the N. and NE. coasts begins to show a falling oif in point of grandeur and interest. Beyond the North Cape the scene is one of utter desolation, and the same may indeed be said of the regions between Hammer- to Bode. NORDLAND. 29. Route. 223 fest and the North Cape. Travellers, therefore, who have no taste for scenery of this forbidding character will perhaps do well not to proceed beyond Hammerfest. Between Tromsa and Hammer- fest, on the other hand, the coast presents a series of most im- posing mountain and glacier scenes, while Tromso itself lies in a remarkably picturesque situation. The scenery with which the writer was most struck extends from the Arctic Circle (the Hest- mandse) to the Lofoden Islands and the S. extremity of Hindu (Ledingen), where the grandest mountains and glaciers are seen in close proximity with the sea. A girdle consisting of numerous is- lands, some of which rise to a height of several thousand feet, here stretches far out to sea, while the fjords extend as far in the oppo- site direction, reaching to the bases of the lofty inland. mountains. A trip to Bode and as far as Ladingen in the Lofoden Islands will thus comprise some of the most characteristic features of these northern regions; but, if possible, the voyage should be extended to Tromso and Hammerfest for the sake of seeing the Lyngenfjord and the island scenery of the Arctic Ocean, the finest of the kind in Europe. STEAMBOAT TRAVELLING. A cruise in one of the coasting steam- ers rather resembles a stay at a large hotel than a sea-voyage. The vessel’s course lies almost always within the island-belt (‘in— denskjaars’), and sea-sickness is of rare occurrence. From the Skjtrrgaard, however, a view of the open sea is frequently obtained beyond the lower Slcjazr, or Va’r, as they are sometimes called. In July the steamboats are apt to be crowded. It is not easy to secure a berth beforehand by merely ordering it, or even by paying for it, as it is usually those who in proprid persond first come who are first served. On arriving at Throndhjem, therefore, the traveller should lose no time in going on board, or sending some trustworthy messenger, to secure the fraction of a cabin which is to be his lodging for several days or even weeks. — All the steamboats contain a complete Post Office on board, where even telegrams are received. Letters and dispatches are forwarded to their destinations from the nearest available station. The captain and several of the officials generally speak English and German. A coasting voyage of moderate length has many attractions. The captain and crew are usually very obliging and communica- tive, especially if the traveller shows an interest in their country. The Pilots (Lodsen) are especially well informed and intelligent. Two of them navigate the vessel from Ohristiansand to Thrond- hjem, two from Throndhjem to Hammerfest, and two others thence to Vadse, one of them always being on duty, except when the steamer is stationary. They are appointed by government, and each receives 140 kr. per month, besides his board. The number of pilots proper is , however , inadequate for the great traffic, and their place is often filled by other qualified persons (Kjendtmwnd). 224 Route 29. NORDLAND. From Th-rondhjem Among the deck-passengers there are sometimes Lapps (here called Finne'r), Finns (Koazner; comp. p. 249), and convicts, these last being occasionally met with on their way to the Slaveri, or house of correction, at Throndhjem. If questioned as to the object of their journey, they speak of it euphemistically as a ‘voyage to the south’ or ‘in the king’s service’. Itinerant musicians (who in accordance with the traditions of the country travel free) are often a source of annoyance, and when the traveller hopes to get rid of them by going ashore, they are pretty sure to re-appear at the nearest inn. or Gjazstgioert. The sailors are generally a sober and hard-working class, and the traveller will frequently have occasion to admire the patience and perseverance they exhibit in loading or discharging cargo. The inhabitants of the small stations, who on the steamer’s arrival crowd round her in their Ranebaade (pointed skiffs) are another object of interest. The charge for going ashore is usually 20 on, but the Tart should always be asked for, lest the traveller should unwittingly hurt the feelings of some landed proprietor or local dignitary (albeit wielding the oars with upturned shirt sleeves) by offering to pay. However far north the traveller ex- tends his voyage, he will be struck with the civility, honesty, and intelligence of the natives, especially those who are not in im- mediate contact with the influences of modern ‘civilisation’. In Tromse the telegraph official on one occasion insisted on accom- panying the writer for a quarter of an hour in the midst of a deluge of rain to show him the way to the post-office; and at Vadse a merchant vof the place showed him a collection of valu- able photographs from Vienna and a work on the philosophy of Bacon of which the owner was an admirer. Another native of the far north mentioned that he had just returned from Rome where he had spent the winter, while an intelligent native of Kjelvik, close to the North Cape, had travelled over a considerable part of Great Britain, but expressed a decided preference for the freedom of his Arctic home, the greater purity of its air and water, and even for its climate! Olergymen, teachers, and government- offlcials also travel frequently in these vessels, and will give much interesting information regarding the Lapps, Finns, and other in— habitants of the country. The natural phenomena of this hyperborean region will not fail to excite a keen interest even in the most experienced traveller. The weather, the winds, and the fogs, the play of light and shade, the purity of the atmosphere, are all quite unlike the same natural features in other parts of Europe. The Alpine tourist will be sur- prised to find how little his former practice aids him in estimating distances here. The animal world is of extraordinary richness. The sea teams with cod, herrings, skate, and other fish. 'Whales are frequently seen spouting columns of water into the air, or rising to to Beds. NORDLAND. 29; Route. ‘225 the surface in unwieldy gambols. Swarms of cider-ducks swim near every island, and the air is full of sea-gulls. Not unfrequently the traveller may see the industrious sea-gull (Kryhje) robbed of its prey by the skua (Lestris parasitica), which, unable to fish for itself, compels the gull to drop its booty and catches it withv unerring dexterity before it reaches the water. A peculiar ruffling of the water is sometimes caused by the shoals of herrings (Sitd- stim), often pursued by the voracious Set (‘saith’, or hake, one of the Gadidaa), or by a seal (Stethund), to escape from which they dart'iuto the nets and even spring ashore. ~ EXPENSES. The cost of a voyage to the Nordland and Finmarken is very moderate. A return-ticket from Throndhjem to Vadse costs 126 kr., to Tromso 75 kr., the passenger’s lodging and trav- elling expenses thus amounting to about 9 kr. per day only. Return- tickets are issued only for distances of 20 sea-miles and upwards. They are available for a year and for any vessel of the company which issues them. Travellers with return-tickets are, however, not allowed to break the journey. The food on board the steamers is generally good. Fresh salmon and flounders (Helleflyndre) and salted delicacies are always abundant. For a substantial breakfast (Frolcost) or supper (Aftensmad) 11/4 kr., and for dinner (Midday) 2-21/2 kr. are the usual charges. Tea, coffee, wine, beer, and spirits are extras. The steward expects a fee of at least 1/2 kr. per day from each passenger at the end of the voyage. The account for food and extras should be paid daily, to prevent mistakes. MIDNIGHT SUN. The best season for a cruise to the North Cape is between 20th June and 15th August, whether the main object of the traveller be to witness the subdued glory of the midnight sun, or to see the scenery to the best advantage. Down to the middle of June the mountains are almost all covered with snow, and the vegetation in the valleys is imperfectly developed, and after the middle of August the nights become longer and colder; but the intervening period forms one unbroken day, during which the weather is often warm and genial. The midnight sun, which is visible within the Arctic Circle (66° 50') only, is partially or wholly seen from the sea-level‘ within the following dates (those for the North Cape, however, being reckoned for a point 1000 ft. above the sea): —— i For the first time. I For the last time. Places ' ' Upper Whole Whole Upper ‘ Margin Centre Disc Disc Centre Margin Bode 30th May 1st June 3rd June 8th July 10th July 12th July Tromse 18th - - 19th May ‘20th May 22th - 24th ~ 25th - Vadse 15th - 16th - 17th - 26th - 27th - 28th - Hammerfest 13th - 14th — 16th - 27th - 28th - 29th - North ‘Cape 11th _ 12th -- 13th - 30th - 3151: - lst Aug. BAEDExER‘s Norway and Sweden. 2nd Edit. 15 226 Route 29. BEJAN. From Throndhjem It need hardly be observed that travellers desirous of seeing the midnight sun should not postpone their journey till the latest possible date, as clouds and mist, as well as intervening mountains and islands, too often conceal the horizon and cause disappoint- ment. A height of several hundred feet of course commands a better view than the deck of the steamer, and enables the spec- tator to see the midnight sun about one day earlier and later in the season than is. otherwise possible. The sublimity of the spec- tacle, when witnessed in all its majesty, produces an impression never to be forgotten, and has been finely described by Carlyle, Bayard Taylor, and many other writers, while Tegne'r’s lines on the subject are remarkable for their extreme simplicity : — ‘Midnattssolen pa bergen satt, Blodrod till att skada; Det var ej dag, det var ej natt, Det vagde mellan b‘ada.’ (Literally: - ‘The midnight sun sat on the mountains, blood-red to behold; ‘twas neither day nor night, but a balance between them.’) 0 From Throndhjem to Bode. 76 M. (304 Eng]. M.). STEAMBOATS, cnmp. p. 221. The Hamburg steamer at present leaves Throndhjem on Wednesdays , and the Bergen and Christiania boats on Saturdays. Intending passengers should bear in mind that when a vessel is advertised to sail on a certain day, the very be- ginning of that day, or what is usually called the midnight of the pre- ceding day, is frequently meant. The direct distances from Throndhjem are prefixed to each station. Between Christiania or Christiansand and Ber- gen there are 4 stations, between Bergen and Throndhjem 6-10 stations; between Throndhjem and Body; 17-25, between Bode and Tromsfl 12-16, between Tromse and Hammerfest 3-6, and between Hammerfest and Vadse 19; or in all 63-90. For distances between the small stations, see ‘Com- municationer‘. The first station is ( 3 Redbjerget (at which the Hamburg vessels only call), and the next (_ 7 M.) Bejan, at the mouth of the Throndhjem Fjord, on the S. extremity of Hreland. To the N.E. stretches the Skjerenfjord. The vessel now steers to the N., skirt— ing the extensive peninsula of Fosen, formed by the sea and the long fjord of Throndhjem. To the W. are the islands of Stor-Fose'n and the Taro-Her, and farther on is the Fro-Han, a wide channel bounded on the W. by the Fro-Her. 1‘). M. Valdersund. The Nordtandsja’gte, with their peculiar raised cabins (Veng), and rigged with a single square-sail (Raaseil) and a topsail (Skvazrsegl or Topsegl), are frequently seen here on their way to the Tydske-Bryg or German Quay at Bergen (see p. 72), deeply laden with wood and dried fish (Klipfisk and Rund- fisk, comp. p. 239). Part of their homeward cargo often consists of cofflns, ‘filled with bread and Kringlcr (a kind of rusk). These vessels, both in build and rig, are the lineal descendants of the piratical craft of the ancient Vikings. 15 M. Stoksund i Bjemer, with the marble-quarries that furnish- to Bode. BJoRo. 29. Route. 227' ed the material for Throndhjem cathedral (see p. 214). Of four caverns here the largest is Harebakhulen, at the gaard of Harebak. To the W. lie the Stoke and Lindna’sa. 17 M. Syd-Krogo. Fish spread out on the rocks to dry (Klipfisk), begin to be seen here. In winter they are hung on Hjelder, or ‘wooden frames, for the same purpose (thence called Stokfisk). Eider-ducks abound. 21 Rams/a. The black and white rings on the rocks (Ter- neringe), resembling targets, indicate the position of iron stan- chions for mooring vessels (Moerker). The maintenance of these rings (Ring'vazsen), like that of the lighthouses and pilots (Fyrvazsen, Lodsocescn), is under the supervision of government. The number of lights required in the ‘Skjeergaard’ is, of course, very large. For the next two hours the vessel traverses the open and sometimes rough Foldensje, which is prolonged towards the N.E. by the Foldenfjord (not to be confounded with the fjord of that name to the N. of Bode, p. 244). 25 M. Bjore. Here, and farther to the N., we often observe white marks on the rocks, and sometimes white planks in the water, the object of which is to attract the salmon, which mistake them for their favourite waterfalls and are thus decoyed into the nets (comp. p. 111). Beyond Bjerc the steamer’s course is again ‘indenskjasrs’. To the‘right is the island of Skjeingen. We now steer to the SE. into the Namsenfjord, which is separated from the Redsund to the N.E. by the long windingisland of Otterer. As usual, the scenery improves as the fjord is ascended, and the steamer soon stops (generally to- wards evening) at the charming little town of —- . 31 M. Namsos (p. 220). Steering to the W. we next touch at Foslandsosen, then thread the very narrow Radsund, traverse the Foldenfjord with its maze of islands, and reach Apelcazr, on a small island at the mouth of the Indre Foldenfjord. Fnom NAMSOS 'ro KONGSMO on the Indre Foldenfjord, usually a steamboat once -a fortnight (visiting the Bindalsfjord on the alternate weeks, see p. 228). The fjord is very narrow and picturesque, resembling the Lysefjord near Stavanger, and is nearly 12 sea-miles in length. Stations: Sarvig, Ses'erstad, Lund, etc. From Kongsmo at its head a road leads by Harland and OverhaIden to Namsos; from Aavatnsvand, on the Eidsvand, a little beyond Holland. a path diverging to the left crosses the hills to (5-6 hrs.) Fiskumfos (p. 221). The steamer, which generally performs this part of the voyage at night, now threads its way through an infinity of small islands. To the right the island of Nara, with the parsonage of the same name. The next station is Rervik, on the island of Indre Vigten, to the W. of which are the islands of Mellem Vigten and Ytre Vigten, on which rise the Sulafield and Dragstind (450 ft.). On the left, farther on, is the Locke, where a curiously shaped mountain is said by tradition to represent a giantess who was pursued by her lover, while her brother attempted to rescue her. ‘ The ‘Torgheetta’ (see 15* 228 Route 29. TORGHETTA. From Throndhjem below), or hat of the latter, having been pierced by an arrow shot by the amorous ‘Hestmand’ (p. ‘232), the sun shone through the aperture and metamorphosed the distressed maiden into stone, the pursuer being at this juncture only 105 English miles off! In pass- ing the giantess the natives sometimes raise their hats with mock ceremony. 36 M. Gut'vik. On the right, farther on, is the Bindalsfjord, with its numerous ramifications, - the boundary between Nordre Throndhjems Amt and Helgeland, the Halogaland of early Nor- wegian history, which extends to the N. to the promontory of Knnnen near Bode (p. ‘233). Once fortnightly (alternating with a visit to the Foldenfjord, see p. 227) a steamer from Namsos plies on the Bindalsfjord as far as Teraalc, to the S.W. of Vatsaas. Thence towards the N.W. runs the Thosenfjo'rd, a huge mountain-cleft, 13/4 sea-miles in length, extending to Thosbotn and Gum-den Thosdal, from which the traveller may pro- ceed with a guide to Hortslrarmo in the Sveningsdal and Mosjeren on the Vefisenfiord (p. 229) in 11/2—2 days. The ascent from Gaarden Thosdal is ex- tremely steep, and on the E. side of the mountain there is a very trouble- some ford across the Gaasvaselv. From Gutvik the steamer steers towards the island of Torgen with the *Torghwtta. ‘market hat’), one of the most famous is- lands of-the Nordland, situated in 65°24’ N. latitude. It resembles a hat , about 800 ft. in height, floating on the sea, and is pierced about halfway up, from N.E. to S.W., by an aperture known as Hullet (formed by the ‘Hestmand’s’ arrow; see the legend above mentioned), through which, in passing between the island and the mainland, the passenger can see the sky on the other side. The height of this curious natural tunnel at the E. entrance, according to Prof. Mohn’s measurements, is about 62 ft., in the middle ‘203 ft., and at the W. end 246 ft. The sides are flat at most places, nearly perpendicular, and here and there look as if they had been artificially chiselled. ‘At the entrances are huge heaps of rocky rubble (Ur), but in the cavern itself there are but few blocks of rock. The view of the sea with its countless islands and. rocks, seen from this gigantic telescope, is indescribably beautiful and impressive’. (Vibe, ‘Kiisten u. Meer Norwegens’; Gotha, 1860, with two views of the island. See also Friis, ‘Kong Oscar II’s Reise ; Kristie-nia, 1874.) On the island is Ga-arden Target (good quarters), near which are a burial-place and a few reminiscences of anti- quity. Passengers who intend to visit the island disembark at --— (41 Sommzs, a charmingly situated place, with smiling meadows and corn-fields, or at ~— 42 M. Brenersund (65028’), which boasts of a pastor, a doctor, and a telegraph-‘office. The telegraph is of great importance to the natives. On the arrival of a Sildstim , or shoal of herrings, they frequently have to telegraph for extra supplies of salt and barrels, which are then sent by steamers chartered for the purpose. On the shore are often seen the isolated cottages of the Strandsiddere, who. to Botto. VEFS'ENFJORD. 29. Route. 229 live exclusively by fishing. Inland settlers are called Opsiddere or Nysiddere by way of contrast. A visit may be paid from Brenesund to the grand Velfjord, the broad mouth of which the steamboat afterwards passes. The route is by boat into the Skitlebotn, at the end of which there is a quarry of ex- cellent blueish-white marble Thence by a road across a narrow isthmus (Bid) to Saltbu on the Velfjord, and again by boat to (11 Kil.) Gaar'd Hegge (good quarters at Landhandler Knofi"s). —— In the Tidt'ngdal, one of the innermost branches of the Velfjord, which is there called the Store Bjerga, the valley ascending from the fjord suddenly rises to a height of ft., and over this terrace is precipitated the Tt'dingdalsfos in a single leap. —- From the Velfjord to the N. diverge the Oksfiord and the Storifjord, two long and wild creeks, which may also be explored from Saltbu. —— From Bjerrgeerren, at the end of the Store Bjerga, a fatiguing mountain-route crosses to Hor'tskar'mo in the Svem'ngsdal (see above). — From Hegge the traveller may walk to the S. to Nteve-rsted on the U'l'fjm'd, row thence to Somnhoved, and walk to Somnoes, the steamboat-station to the E. of the Torgheetta (p. 228). Some of the steamboats next call at Titr'um-Zilarlcedptads, to the N. of Bronesund, others at ~— 45 M. Rare, on the large mountainous island of Vtegen, to the W. Most of the vessels then steer past the Velfjord, in which, to the right, rises the huge Mosalcseten, while on the N. side are the Heihotmstt'nder. They then pass between the island of flame and the mainland, on which lies —— ' 47 M. Forvilc or Vi'vetstad. Near Vistnes, farther on , opens the Hsterfjord, from the head of which a path crosses the mountains to the Lakaadat and the Eiteraadat in the district of Vefsen (see below). The steamer now approaches the imposing Seven Sisters (see below), which have long been visible in the distance. To the E. towers the conspicuous Finland: (3880 ft.). The vessel crosses the Ve/‘sen/‘Jord, passes on the right a hill remarkable for its red colour, and stops at the flat island of ~— 47 M. Thjete, formerly the‘ property of Haarek of Thjete, a well-known character in early Norwegian history. Beyond Thjote the small steamer ‘Helgeland’ ascends the Vefsenfjord to Mosjaen, at its S.E. end, 55 sea-miles from Throndhjem. The scenery is very imposing, and in the interior of the fjord the mountains are beautifully wooded. From Mosjeen, near which are several large steam saw-mills, a good road leads to the Tustervand and to Stornes on the Ras- oand, which ranks next to Lake Mjesen in point of area. From Stornes the traveller may ascend the Brurskanke and the Kjer'ingtind, on the W. side of the lake, and then follow the course of the Resaa, the discharge of the Tustervand and Resvand, towards the N. to Resaaeren on the Ranenfiord (p. 230). About halfway thither a digression may be made to the E., up the course of the Bju-raa, for the sake of ascending the imposing 0x- tt'nder; but these peaks are more easily reached from Resaaeren and through the Leerskardal. After leaving Mosjeen, the coasting steamboat follows the N. arm of the fjord to Sandnoeseen, at the N. end of the island of Atsten, which lies to the W. of the mouth of the Vefsenfjord. The Hamburg steamboats skirt the W. side of the large island of Alston, touch at Sevz'g, and then at --— 51 M. Sanneseen or Sandnwseen, at the N . end of the island, near which are the old church of Stamna's and the district-prison. 230 Route 29. RANENFJORD. From Throndhjem The view from this point of the Seven Sisters is strikingly grand. At the S. end of Alsten (65 Engl. sq. M. in area; 1500 inhab.) is the church of Atstahoug (5 Engl. M. from Sevig, 12 M. from Sand- naeseen), where Peter Dass, the famous author of ‘N ordlands Trompet’ (published for the first time in 1739) was pastor from 1689 to 1708. This work contains a most accurate description of this province of Norway in poetic garb, and will be found an in- valuable travelling companion by persons acquainted with the language. (Best edition by Eriksen; Christiania, 1874.) On the Haugnws, near the church, is the so-called Kongsg'rav. -— About 4 Engl. M. from Sandnaeseen is Gaarden Botnet, the best starting- ' point for the ascent of the northernmost of the *Seven Sisters (Sy'v Sestre), which rise to a height of upwards of 3000 ft. There are in reality six mountains only, but the summit of one is divided into two ridges. The highest summit is called the Diyertind. The view from the top is one of the grandest and most peculiar in the Nordland. A local steamer runs from Sem'g to Vefsen (see above) and Ranen, and also to the W. to Her-zen. The fishery at Aasvaer, to the W. of Dynnoesa, and on the ‘Skallen’ (“fishing banks’) in December and January is very productive. At that season no fewer than 10,000 fishermen sometimes congregate here, and within a fortnight or three weeks they catch as many as ten million herrings (200-250,000 barrels). The greatest Fair in the Nordland takes place on 2nd July annually in the Bjm'n—Maa'knadsplads in the island of Dynnccs, and is largely attended by the country-people from far and near, and by their servants, who are in the habit of specially stipulating in their contracts for ‘Markedsfem'er’ or ‘fair holidays.’ The fairs in the Nordland were formerly called Ledz'ngsberge (Lensbeo'ge), be- cause the taxes (Ledt'ng) of the inhabitants were paid at them. 53 M. Kobberdal on the island of Lelcten, the next station of any importance, commands a view, towards the E., of the Rancn- /)'0rd. The Hamburg steamers do not enter this fjord, but the other large steamers frequently visit the more important stations. The *Ranenfjord (anciently Radund) is famous for its timber, and yields the material of which almost all the boats, houses, and coffins between this point and Vadso are made (boats, see p. 231). The prin- cipal stations are Hemnoes and M0, of which the former is 4, the latter 8 sea-miles from Vigholmen. The scenery becomes more attractive as we ascend the fjord. Hemnazs (good quarters at Landhandler Nilsen’s), with a new church. Round the church are several small cottages, erected for the accommo- dation of peasants from a distance, who arrive here on Saturday evening to attend divine service on Sunday. Excursions hence to Resaaaren and to the Oxtinder (p. 229). M0 (rooms at Landhandler Meyer's) carries on a considerable trade with Sorsele in Sweden via Umbugten and the Bonws Pass. Railways to Throndhjem to the S., to the Foldenfjord to the N., and even across the Bonazs Pass into Sweden are projected. -- The following stalactite ca- verns (‘Drypstenshuler’) may be visited from M0: the Re'sagrotte on the Langvand, near Hammer-noes (7 Engl. M.), the Laphul, near Gaarden Bjer— naa, and opposite to it another by Gaarden Gunlz'en, both in the valley of the Redvaselv. An excursion may also be taken to the glacier of SVABTISEN (p. 232) by rowing to the end of the Langvand and following the valley to the N. as far as Fisktjernmo. A glacier-pass crosses hence to the end of the Melfjord (p. 233'). to Bode. JUNKERSDAL. 29. Route. 231 Another excursion is to the Svartisvand, a lake into which an off- shoot of the Svartisen Glacier descends. (Forbes’s Norway, p. 228.) To the N.E. of Mo extends the interesting Dunderlandsdal (the Finnish word Tundm't', and the Lappish Duodar signifying mountain), a broad valley, the central point of which is Bjwldaanaes. Several of the streams in this valley disappear in caverns formed by the erosion of the marble from the surrounding mica-slate, and suddenly re-appear lower down. This is the case with the Stilvasaa, near Gaarden Storforshei in the Skog- frudal (about 15 Kil.v from Mo), where there is a very curious, but now ruined mill. Near it is the Urtvand, an interesting forest-girt lake. Farther W. is the Ez'te'raa, which drives mills immediately on its egress from the bowels of the earth. In the vicinity ‘are Tyvshelleren ('thieves" grotto”) and an interesting Ravine, with an icy current of air through it, where the rushing of the subterranean water is distinctly heard. A third stream of the same kind is the P'ruglaa near Gaarden Jordbro. By the Pruglheib-ro are about fifty water-worn Jtetteg-ryder (‘giant cauldrons”), called by the Lapps ‘Kadm'ha Basatam Gaw'e’, or the wash-tubs of the mountain-women. From Bjeldaanaas (55 Kil. from Mo; carriage-road without stations) we may visit the Stormdalsfos and the Marble Grotto at its foot, near the Bredt'ksfjeld. The Uo-tfjeld, reached by crossing the Stormdalshei, and the Brediksfjeld command uninterrupted views, embracing the Svartisen and the Lofoden Islands. An excursion is recommended to the Svartisen, which descends to the Kv-itvaselodal, and to its ice-fall on the slope of the Magdajoktind. From Bjseldaanaes it is a day’s ride to (55 Kil.) Stanford in the Beieren- dal. The route follows the Bjceldaadal, passes the .Nedre and Here Bjoel- daavand, and traverses the hvre and Nedre Toldaadal, past Toldaa and Aasbakke, to Storjord (good quarters at the under-forester‘s). From Stor— jord to Soleen (with the church of Beieren, p. 235) 11 Kil. more. From Bjeeldaanees to Almindingen in the Saltdal is also a long day"s journey, the route leading either through the Bjeeldaadal (following the telegraph-wires), or through the Gubbelaadal, Randal, and Lenesdal, which last forms the upper end of the Saltdal. Below the junction of the Salt- dal and Junkersdal lies Gaarden Berghulnaas; thence to Almindz'ngen and Rognan, see p. 237. -- From Berghulnaes the traveller should proceed to the E. to the Junkersdals-Gaard, in the Junkersdal (lllKil. :, good quarters). The bridle-path thither leads through the U0‘, one of the grandest rocky ravines in Norway, formed by the Kjernfjeld to the E. and the Solvaag- field to the W. (11-5000 ft. high). The route is very dangerous in winter owing to the frequency of avalanches (Sneskred). The valley is named after the ‘Amtmand’, or governor, Junker Prcebend von Ahn, who during a war with Sweden was encamped here with a body of troops. Farther up, the valley is called Graddz's, and is traversed by a bridle-path to Sweden, much frequented in winter, and provided with several ‘Fjeld- stuer’. Many settlements of Lapps are to be met with on the heights in the Dunderdal and Saltdal, where acquaintance may easily be made with their Gammer (‘earth-huts’) and their mode of life (comp. p. 249). —— From the Junkersdal to the Saltdal, see p. 237. The next station, a little to the N. of the Ranenfjord, is —- 55 M. Vigholmen (good quarters), charmingly situated. The Ranowringsbaade, pointed skiffs with lofty bows, recalling the Ve- netian gondola, are built here. They are called Fjering, Sexri'ng, or Ottring, according as they have four, six, or eight oars (each pair wielded by one rower), these words being contractions of the numbers 4, 6, 8, in composition with wring, a termination from Aar (‘oar’). These boats were formerly amazingly cheap, and even now a substantial ‘Sexring’ can be bought for 40-50 crowns. The Fembering (or Femb’yrding), a heavier kind of boat, used in the 232 Route 29. HESTMANDSH. From Throndhjem Lofoden fishery, and accommodating five men, is also built here. As might be expected , the Norwegian boatmen are much more adroit in the management of their craft than most other continental oarsmen. From Vigholmen the steamboat steers to the N .W. between the islands of Huglen, Hannese, and Tombe. To the E. are seen the S.W. spurs of the Svartisen, and to the W. the singularly shaped islands of Lovunden and the group of Threnen (Threnstd‘vene). The former, upwards of 2000 ft. high, is 20 Engl. M., and the latter, a group which is equally lofty, consisting of four rocky islands, 30 Engl. M. distant; but both seem quite near in clear weather. These islands are the haunt of dense flocks of sea-birds '(Lunnen, Lundefugle, Mormon Arcticus), which nestle in the clefts of the rocks and are caught by dogs trained for the purpose. The precipitousness of Lovunden, the summit of which appears to overhang the water, has given rise to the saying —- ‘Se! hvordan han luder den gamle Lovund!” (‘See how it overhangs, the ancient Lovund’.) Another saying is -— ‘Hestemanden tute, Lovunden lute, og Trenen er laengere ute.‘ (‘The Hestemand blows his horn, the Lovund overhangs, and the Thren lies farther out’) See Peter Dass, ‘Samlede Skrifter‘; Kristiania, 1874; vol. i., p. 94. Lovunden and Threnen are inhabited by fishermen only. On one of the latter group of islands there is a church, where the pastor of Lure occasionally performs divine service. These islands may be visited from the station Indre K'vare, but the passage of the Threat/fjord is often rough. The coasting steamers sometimes touch at Lovunden. --— Sandflesen, a mythical island like Gunitlas Hour in Frithjofs Saga, overrun with game, and with shores abound- ing in fish, is said to lie to the W. of Threnen. In steering towards the K'va'rfie'r the steamboat traverses the Stegfjord, the passage between the Lure on the left and Alderen on the right, and we soon come in sight of the *Hestmandse (1750 ft.), which is perhaps the most interesting island in this archipelago. To the right, on a projecting peninsula of the mainland, lies -— 59 M. Indre K'vare, a lonely place , from which visits may be paid to the Melfjord 233), the Lure, Lovunden, Threnen, and the Hestmand. The ‘horseman’s island’, seen from the W., resem- bles a rider with a long cloak falling over his horse (see the legend mentioned above). The summit is said to be inaccessible, but an attempt to reach it might be made from Gaard Hestmoen on the S. side of the island. The view from it must be very gran-d , as even that from the ridge below the head of the horseman embraces the whole of the archipelago and the imposing Svartisen on the main- land. Those who visit the Lure should ascend the mountain (2110 ft.) at the back of Gaarden Lure, whichllies _11/2 Engl. M. from the. harbour. The view is extolled by L. '0. Buck. -~ The Arctic Circle (66° 50'), which we now cross, passes through the islands ofThrenen and a little to the S. of the Hestmandso, to Bode. KUNNEN. 29. Route. 233 Magnificent as the scenery has hitherto been, it is far sur- passed by- that of the *Svartisen, which the steamer now skirts for several miles. This part of the voyage is usually performed at night, so that passengers have an opportunity of observing the effects of the midnight sun. Svartisen is an enormous mantle of snow and ice, resembling the Jostedalsbrze and the Folgefond, about 44 Engl. M. ‘in length and 12—25 M. in breadth, and covering a mountain-plateau upwards of 4000 ft. in height, from which pro- trude a few Nuter or Knotde (‘peaks’, ‘knolls’). From this plateau descend numerous glaciers to within a few hundred feet of the sea, those extending farthest down being in the Holandsfjord. The westernmost spur of this almost unknown region is the promon- tory of K'unnen (see below), which extends far into the sea. The first station on this part of the voyage is (60 M Setsevig, to the right of which is the Rangsuntte, with the Metfljord and its grand mountains beyond it. The Melfjord, which may be visited from Selsevig, branches of? into the Nordfjor'd and the inner Melfjord. From (t'am'den Melfjord, at the head of the latter, a route crosses the Svartisen to Fislrtjer'nmo, and leads thence to the Langvand and to M0 on the Ranenfjord (see p. 230). 62 M. Redo, with the ‘Norslce Love’. To the right, farther on, are the Tjongs/jord and the Skars/fjord, with their ramifications the Berangsfjord and Hotands/jord, which extend into the heart of Svartisen. Passing the ()mnese on the right, the steamer touches at (64 M.) (irene, a picturesque and smiling island, one of the nearest points to the Svartisen, of which it commands a striking view, and the best starting-point for a visit to its magnificent scenery. The steamer affords a view of the deep indentation formed by the Gtomfjord (see below), and then steers through a narrow strait between the Mela on the left and the Skjerpa on the right to the promontory of Kunnen. liar to the N. we obtain our first glimpse of the Lofoden Islands. From (irons! we may take a boat into the Holandsfjord. as far as Re-indatsvik (fair quarters), and thence ascend the Reindalstind (2100 ft.), which commands a magnificent view of the Svartisen. — A visit should also be paid to the (11/2 Engl. M.) Fondatbrte, with its huge ice-caverns. From Gtommen, at the head of the Glomfjord (also reached by boat from (irons), which does not penetrate so far into the Svartisen, the dreary Dokmodal or Arstadal may be ascended and the mountains crossed (without difficulty, though no path) to (30 Kil) Bet'erens Kirke (Sateen, Ar'stad, p. 234), at the head of the Beierenfjord. The promontory of *Kunnen or Rotkntzet (1995 ft.) forms the boundary between the districts of Helgeland and Satten, and at the same time possesses a climatic and geographical importance similar to that of the promontory of Stadt in the Sendmere (p. 167). From this point there is a ‘Havseie’ (‘sea glimpse’), or opening in the island-belt, through which a view of the open sea is obtained and its motion sometimes felt. To the N. the Fugte comes in sight, and 53/4 sea-miles beyond it the island of Landegode, resembling ‘two gigantic buoys which mark the entrance to the Saltenfjord’. The 234 Route 29. BODQ. From Throndjhem atmosphere here is often remarkably clear. -— The opening in the ‘Skjaergaard’ is soon passed (generally at night), and we next ob- serve on the left the Fugte, the Ftez'na, and the Arneer, and on the right the church of Gildeskaal and the large island of Sandhorn, the highest mountain in which is called Sandhornet (3295 ft.). The Beieyrcnfiord (p. 235) may be entered either on the S. or the N. side of this island. This fjord and the promontory of Kunnen form the northernmost limit of the silver fir. —— We now enter the Saltenfjord, obtaining a view in clear weather of the snow-moun— tains around the Sulitjelma (p. 236) to the E., and soon reach the curious rocky harbour of —— 76 M. Bode (67° 17' ; Nitscn’s Hotel), a busy and increasing place, with 1500 inhab. , the seat of the Amtmand or provincial governor, and a telegraph-station. The annual mean temperature here is 372/50 Fahr, that of July 541/20, and that of January (not colder than Ghristiania) 62°. The large modern buildings contrast strangely with the old cottages with their roofs of turf (Newer). The stone church is very ancient, and contains several old pictures and the coats-of-arms of some Danish families. Almost all the steamers coal at Bode. Passengers who do not intend making any stay here will at least have time to disembark and ascend the *Lobsaas, a hill to the N.E. of the town, which commands a view of the Lofoden Islands to the W., of the Btaamandsfjeld (Otmajalos, 5350 ft.), a snowy range adjoining the Sulitjelma (which is not itself visible) to the E., of the Borsvatnstinder to the SE. and the Sandhorn, with the Svartisen, to the S. (A similar view, though less extensive, is obtained from the fields, 1') min. to the S. of the town.) Geologists will be interested in the erratic blocks of syenite in the midst of a rock-formation of slate. The town is supplied with water from a neighbouring lake. —— A pleasant excursion may be made hence to the (6 Kil.) Vaageoand, on the bank of which is a club-hut. A road leads to the SE to (1/2 hr.) the Church of Bode and the Prastegaard, at which Louis Philippe, when travelling as a refugee under the name of Miiller (accompanied by Montjoye, ‘who called himself Froberg), was entertained on his voyage to the North Cape in 1796. A room in the house is still named after him. Onthe S. wall of the church is the monument of a former ‘Praast’ (d. 1666). Beyond the church the road traverses a pleasant tract, with rich vegetation, on the bank of the Saltenfjord (p. 235). Herrings and small whales are frequently seen in the fjord here (p. 225). Bode is a good starting-point for a number of very interesting EXCURSIONS, of which the three following are the most important. Comp. the Maps, pp. 218, 234. 1. FROM Bone TO THE BEIERENFJORD. This fjord, a profound mountain-chasm which is not unlike the Geiranger Fjord, is most conveniently visited by the steamer De be 8 . Leipzig’ Wu garr- l: 0 0 0. 0 0 5. 11 1 r (kograph Anstalt von to Bode.‘ SALTSTRBM. 29. Route. 235 ‘Salton’, which usually leaves Bode on Tuesday and Friday morn- ings and returns the same day (6 hrs. there and back). Crossing the Saltenfjord, we skirt the island of Sandhom on the right. Sta- tions Slcaaltand, on the left, and Sandnazs, in the island of Sand- horn. We now enter the *Beierentjord, a narrow inlet flanked by most imposing mountains. The narrowest point is at Gaarden Eg- gesvilc. The third station is Kjelling, and the last Tvervik, whence the steamer returns to Bode. From Tvervik we row to (3 Kil.) Sateen (good quarters at Landhandler J entoft’s), or to Arstad, where there is a skyds-station. The road leads thence through a picturesque valley, past Beie'rens Kirke (with Gaarden Moldjord ad- jacent), to Sto'rjo’rd, Aasbakke, and (about 20 Kil.) Toldaa (p. 231). If neither of these routes be undertaken, the traveller should ascend from Soloen (or Beierens Kirke) to the summit of the Heitind (4120 ft.; with guide), which rises to the S. and com- mands a magnificent view of the mountain-solitudes extending into Sweden, of the Svartisen to the S., and of the sea with its nu- merous islands to the W., including even the mountains in the Lofoden islands, 17-20 sea—miles distant. ,2. Fame Bone TO THE SALTENFJORD AND SKJERSTADFJORD. The steamboat ‘Salten’ usually leaves Bode on Wednesdays and Sa- turdays for Rognan at the S. end ot the Skjerstadfjord, where the Saltdal begins, and returns thence to Bode at night. Stations: Valosem'Ledmg, Sire/m, Skjerstad, Venset, Fuske, Le'z'fset, and Rognan. The Skjerstad Fjord is the western prolongation of the Salten- fjord, from which it is separated by the Stremo and the Gods, to the N. of-the Streme. Between these islands and the mainland are three very narrow straits, the Sundstrem (‘200 ft. wide), the Storstram (500 ft.), and the Godastrem, through which an enor- mous mass of water has to pass four times daily, forming a tre- mendous, roaring cataract, commonly known as the Saltstrem, as each tide pours in or out of the fjord. The usual rise of the tide here is 5-6 ft. only, but when it increases to 8-9 ft., as in the case of spring—tides, the scene is a most imposing one. No vessel dares to attempt the passage at such times, and the violence of the cata- ract has even proved destructive to whales. The steamboat can ~ pass through these straits during an hour or so at high or at low tide only, and times its departure from Bode accordingly (from 4 to 10 a.m.). The Saltstrem is described by Schytte in ‘Bodes Beskrivelse’, by Sommerfelt in ‘Saltdalens Beskrivelse’, by Vibe in his work on the sea and coast of Norway, and by other writers. The Saltstrem, which surpasses the famous Malstrom (p.241) on the coast of the Lofoden Islands, is best viewed from Stu-em, where we must disembark and wait for several hours (quarters at Landhandler Thomson’s). A granite column at Balcsundholm com- memorates the visit of Oscar II. in 1873. (Frz'is’ Reise).~ The ascent of the Bersoatnstinder to the S. of Strem is recommended. @236 Route 29. SULITJELMA. Excursions Slcjerstad, on the S. bank of the fjord named after it, lies at .the entrance to the Misvcerfjord, a bay of the fjord. Opposite, to ‘the W., is the old gaard of Lenses, with an ancient burial-place. The steamer then recrosses the fjord to —- Venset (good quarters at Koch’s). About 5-6 Kil. farther is Hines- gavlen, a promontory of conglomerate, a formation which also oc- curs in the Kjcrtnaes, 14 hi1. to the S. -— The steamer next touches at —-- Fuske, on the N. bank of the fjord, whence a road leads by the Iv’uskeeid to Dybvilt on the Foldenfyord (Star/‘olden, p. 244). Fuske is also the starting-point for an ~— - Exounsrorz 'ro THE SULITJELMA. The route traverses the district called Vattenbygden, and passes the Nedre Vand, the Hare Vand, and the Lang-wand (357 ft.). On leaving the steamer we cross the Finneid, where there is a fine waterfall, past which runs a wooden slide (Lapp muorka) for the purpose of drawing boats up to the lake. We then row on the Nedre Vand to Moen, at its upper end, and, if possible, as far as Slcjenstuen, the last skyds-station, at the head of the .(dvre Vand. Next day we walk to (3 Kil.) StFrrmG, where the forester (Sko'vvogter) lives, and ascend thence to the Langvand (360 ft.), a boat on which conveys as past a number of gaards to Fage'r'mo at its upper end (quarters at Upsidder Seren’s, who also acts as a guide). A height to the E. of the gaard should be ascended for the sake of the view it affords of the *Sulitjelma (6150 ft.), which only a single valley separates from the spectator. The spectacle is of surpassing grandeur. The ascent of the Sulit- jelma from this side has rarely or never been attempted. ‘The extensive pedestal of the gigantic Sulitjelma, which is formed of a kind of mica-slate as hard as glass, rises almost immediately from the Langvand, extends from E. to W. for upwards ofa mile slopes towards the S., and ascends again at its N. margin, where it is 4 80ft. above the sea-level, and where, with its various peaks, it assumes a nearly semi- circular form. The mountain is covered with enormous masses of snow, which have forced the glacier to descend 700 ft. below the snow-line, and it culminates in two colossal peaks, often concealed by clouds, the northernmost of which is 6485ft. in height, while between them the tongue of the glacier descends into the narrow valley. The S. peak is divided by a deep cleft into two rocky pinnacles, which, as well as the N. peak, rise in tremendous precipices from the glacier below. To the N. extends the vast and gently sloping glacier of the Blaamcmd, and. to the S. the mountain is adjoined by the flat Lairojfjeld‘. The namefiulitjelma is of Lapp origin, being compounded of two words (Sullm' C'ielbma) signifying the ‘threshold of the island world’. The ‘Blaamand’ derives its name from a mass of blue glacier—ice somewhat resembling a human figure, which becomes visible when the snow melts. The old ice under the névé is called Blaabraaen in other parts of Norway. The great Swedish naturalist G. Wahlenberg, the author of works on the flora of Lapland and of the Carpathians, spent several weeks in 1807, in a tent on the Virijaur (p. 237), about 1850 ft. above the sea, with a view to explore the Sulitjelma group. He describes the various peaks and the glaciersmere called Joshua), and ascended the highest peak of the moun- tain, the height of which he estimated at about 6000 feet. Between the summit and the southern peak (5320 ft.) the Salajwlma descends towards the S. to the Lomt'jaur (2260 ft. ; jaur, flake’), a depth of 2570 ft., according from Bode. ROGNAN. 29. Route. 237- to Durocher‘s calculation. This lake is separated by a narrow Eid, the watershed (Vandskz'llel) between the Atlantic and the Baltic, from the Swedish Pjeskajam'. —— Adjoining the Sulitjelma group on the N. is the Olmajalos (p. 234), with its two glaciers, the Olmajalos and the Lina-Joekna. About 30 Engl. M. to the N.E. rises the Sarektjokko (6990 ft.), the highest summit in the range. - See G. Wahlenberg‘s ‘Berattelse om M'altninger och Observationer vid 67 Graders Polhojd‘; Stockholm, 1808. G. v. Duben’s ‘Om Lappland och Lapparne‘, 1873. Hartung (t Dulk’s ‘Nor- wegen", 1877. Du Chaillu’s Land of the Midnight Sun, 1882. Passes to Qvickj'ock and other places in Sweden, see below. Rog'nan, the last steamboat-station, where the steamer stops for 1 hr. or more, lies at the end of the Saltenfjord, on the left bank of the Saltdalselv, while Saltdals Kirke stands on the right bank. Good quarters at Ellingen’s at Salinas, 3—4 Kil. from Rognan. From Rognan, which is a skyds-station, we may drive up the Saltdal to (8 Kil.) Sundby (quarters at Larsen’s, the forester). About 18 Kil. from Rognan is Almindingen, a little below which, on the opposite bank of the river, lies E'vensgaarden (good quarters). From the latter a route ascends the Evencesdal for a short distance, and leads to the S. across the Solvaagfjeld, on the N.E. side of the Solvaagtind, to the Junke'rdals—Gaa'rd (p. 231), a short day’s walk, with which the ascent of the Solvaagtind can easily be combined. —— From Almindingen the road next leads to (13 Kil.) Lerjordfald. About 3 Kil. above Lerjordfald we cross the river near Langsandmo or Troldhelen and reach Gaarden Berghul- noes, where a horse and guide to Beieren and Ranen may be pro— cured. The route now leads through beautiful pine-wood to(_11 Kil.) Sto'rjo'rd (quarters at the house of the ‘Forstassistent’), in the Beier-‘ endal (p. 231). Excursion to the Junkersdal, and route to the Dunderlandsdal, see p. 231. The PASSES TO SWEDEN are very rough and fatiguing in summer. (In winter they are traversed more easily, being then practicable for Kjoerm's, or reindeer-sledges, p. 268) Between the gaard of the last ‘0psz'dde1” on the Norwegian side to that of the first ‘Nybyggare’ on the Swedish, the traveller must frequently ride 12 or even 20 hours. It is usual to break this part of thejourney by spending a night in one of the Lappish ‘Laotah’, or tents. At places, too, there are ‘Fjeldstuer’, erected by government for the accommodation of travellers, Where shelter at least may be procured. A guide and a supply of provisions are indispensable. 1. From the Junkersdal, the upper part of which is called Graddz's, a path leads to the S.E., passing the Godjam'e, or through the Merkdal to the Sadva Lake, Horn-Avan, and Skellefted on the Gulf of Bothnia. On each side of the pass there is a Fjeldstue. 2. From the Junkersdal another path leads to the N.E., passing (11Kil.) Skaidi, to the (17 Kil.) Balcand, and thence to the S.E. to the Horn-Avan, where it joins the above route. The Balvand may also be reached from the Langcand, at the W. end of the Sulitjelma group, so that a circuit from the Junkersdal to the Balvand and Langvand, or the reverse, may be made by those who do not intend crossing into Sweden. . From Fagermo on the Langvand (p. 236) a route leads past the N. side of the Sulitjelma group to Qvickjock on the Luled-Elf in Sweden (120 Kil ; 5 days). The path leads past the Rovigaur and Farrejaur to the Vim'jaur (once the head—quarters of Wahlenberg, the naturalist), where Lapps with their tents are generally met with. Thence to Njungis, the first permanently inhabited. place. in Sweden, and to Qm'ckjock (p. 371). The first of these routes is the easiest, the third by far the grandest. Route 29. ' LOFODEN. Excursions 3. FROM Bone 'ro THE LOFODEN AND VESTERAALEN ISLANDS. The Vestfjord separates the long chain of the Lofoden and Ves- teraalen Islands from the mainland, and is prolonged by the Ofoten- fjord, which forms a deep indentation in the coast. The Lofoden and Vesteraalen groups are separated from each other by the Raft- s-und, which lies between the Hst- Vaaga on the W. and the Hinde on the E., all the islands on the W. of this boundary belonging to the Lofoden, and those on the E. and N. to Vesteraalen. The Lofoden Islands describe a long curve towards the W. and S., somewhat resembling a horn, which tapers towards the S. from the Hinde; and they have not inaptly been likened to the skeleton of some vertebrate animal, the smaller vertebrae of the tail being at the S. end. Most of these islands lie so close together that no opening in their long mountain chain is visible from a distance, but the intervals between those at the S. end of the group are wider. The principal islands and straits (Sunde, Strome), from the Hinder towards the S.W., are: the Raftsund, through which lies the steamboat’s course to the N.W. Vesteraalen; the Hst'vaage, the largest of the Lofoden Islands; the Gimsestwm, in which lies the Gimsa; then Vestvaage, with the Napstram; the island of Flagstad with the Sundstwm, and the Moskenazse; the famous Malstram, or Moskenstmm, and the island of Mosken; the Verve, and lastly the archipelago of Rest. -—-~ This chain forms a perfect maze of mountains, bays, and straits, interspersed with thousands of small rocky islets (Holme, Skjaer, or FLese, from the Icel. flcsjar, as they are often here called), and numerous excellent fishing- banks (Shatter, Klaker), and enlivened at places with fishing- stations and small harbours ( Veer). Most of the mountains are picturesque and pointed in shape, and many of them rise im- mediately from the sea (as the Vaagekalle, at Henningsvaer, 3090 ft. high), while the whole range, sometimes called the ‘Lofot'va’g’ (‘Lofoden wall’), with its countless pinnacles, which have been compared to sharks’ teeth, presents a singularly impressive scene. A peculiarity of these mountains is the crater-like formation of many of their peaks, recalling those of the Tatra Mts. in Austria. So far as they are not covered with snow , they are for the most part clothed with a kind of green moss, which possesses a curious luminosity, particularly in damp weather; but there is also no lack of entirely barren rocks. Good harbours (Vaage, Icel. Vagar) abound, where the largest vessels, dwarfed to the dimen- sions of nut-shells, lie in close proximity to enormous walls of rock, several thousand feet in height. The larger islands contain rivers and lakes of no inconsiderable size. The growth of trees in this high latitude is but scanty, but there is abundance of fresh green vegetation owing to the humidity of the climate in summer and its mildness in winter. The sea never freezes here. —- The scenery of the Lofoden Islands, as well as that of the mainland from Bode. LOFODEN. 29. Route. 239 opposite, is viewed to the best advantage on a bright summer day, in steering across the Vestfjord. By midnight light they present a strange and weird, but less imposing appearance, while the moon is entirely shorn of its silvery lustre by the proximity of the orb of day. Still more picturesque is the scene when witnessed during a gale or a passing thunder-storm, the solemnity of which greatly enhances the wildness of the picture. Having seen the Lofoden Islands in all these various aspects, the writer ventures to affirm that they surpass the finest scenery of Southern Europe in sublimity. The famous Lofoden Fishery (Gaatfiske) is prosecuted on the E. coast of the islands from the middle of January to the middle of April. Millions of cod (Skrei- Torsk, Gadus morrhua), which come here to spawn, are caught here annually, with nets (Gar-n), long lines (Liner) provided with. numerous baited hooks, or hand- lines (Djupsogn, or Dybsagn). The fish are then carefully cleaned, and either dried (Terfisk) on the islands on wooden frames (Hjel- der), or slightly salted and carried to drier regions on the main- land, where they are spread out on the rocks to dry (Klipfisk, from kleppen, to split open). When the fish is cut open and the back- bone removed, it is called Rotskjazr; when simply cleaned in the ordinary way, it is called Rundfisk or Stokfisk. The To'rfisk is chiefly exported to Italy, and the Klipfisk to Spain, where it is known as bacallao seco (comp. p. 170). Fish simply salted without other preparation are called Laberdan. The heads were formerly thrown away, but are now dried by fire and pulverised, and thus converted into manure. A German manufactory for the purpose has been established at Henningsomr, and a Norwegian at S'voloazr. On some of the outlying islands the cod-heads are boiled with sea-weed (Tare) and used as fodder (Lepm'ng) for the cattle. Dur- ing the three fishing months no fewer than 20-25,000 fishermen are employed on the Lofoden coasts. The boats, to the number of 5500 or more, flock to the three principal fishing-banks, within a mile of the islands, where the water varies in depth from 30 to 120 fathoms. The shoals (Torskbjerg) of ‘cod, probably on their way from the great banks farther N., extending along the coast and thence to Spitzbergen, are here so dense that hand-line fish- ers, with artificial minnow (Pills) and sinker (Jernsten, Sekkjet, Sykket), hook their prey as fast as they can lower their lines. Each boat’s crew is called a Lag, over which the Hovedmand or captain presides. The annual yield averages 20 million fish, many of which are of great size, and the number has even reached 29 mil- lions. An average catch (Fisket) of 5-6000 cod per boat is con- sidered a fairly good haul. The chief stations are Henningsvter, where a naval officer is posted to preserve order, Vaagen, and Scol- oa’r (the island of Skrooen). The motley multitude, assembled from the N. and W. parts of Norway, presents a most interesting 240 Route ' 29. LOFODEN. Excursions and novel sight. Most of the fishermen sleep in temporary huts (Rorboder) erected for their accommodation. In the middle is the fire-place (Komfur), where they cook their Supamelja (a kind of soup) and Okjysta. The whole proceedings are usually very orderly and peaceable, especially as no opportunity is afiorded for the purchase of spirits. Many of the fishermen realise very handsome profits, and as they are paid in cash, the coffers of the Norwegian banks are often well-nigh drained for the purpose. A clergyman (Stiftskapellan) is stationed here during the period of the fishery for the purpose of performing additional services in different parts of the islands. -7— At the close of the winter fishery (Gaatfisket) most of the fishermen proceed towards the N. to Finmarken to prosecute the Vaarfiske (‘summer fishery’) or Loddefiske (p. 259). Theywinter fishery is unfortunately often attended with great loss of life. Thus when a westerly gale unexpectedly springs up, rendering it impossible to return to the islands, the open boats are driven across the broad and stormy expanse of the Vestfjord for a distance of 10-12 sea-miles, often capsizing before they reach the mainland. On these occasions the ‘Tolleknive’ of the ill—fated crew are sometimes found sticking on the outside of their craft, where they have been used by their owners for the purpose of enabling them to hold on. Some of the boats are, indeed, provided with handles (Shopper) for this purpose. One of the most serious catastrophes of the kind took place on 11th Feb., 1848, when‘ 500 fishermen perished. The total length of the Lofoden and Vester-aalen Islands is about 130 Engl. M., their area 1560 sq. M., and their permanent population about 20,000 souls. STEAMBOAT TO THE LOFODEN ISLANDS. The most convenient way of visiting these interesting islands is by the local steamer from Bode, which usually starts early on Friday mornings, and plies thence to all the principal points on the Lofoden Islands, including the Hinde and part of the Ofotenfjord, performing the whole voyage in about four days. As the vessel proceeds to the extreme point of its voyage, and returns thence by nearly the same route, the traveller may disembark at one of the most interesting points and remain there for one or two days. The large steamers also call at Ledingen and the other principal stations in the L0- foden and Vesteraalen Islands. Comp. Norges Communicationer. Leaving Bode on Friday morning, the local steamer steers across the Vestfjord to Vtem, Moskemrs, Reine, Sund, Balstad, Stamsund, Lyngvazr, Gimso, Henningsoaw, Kabeloaag, and S'volvrrr. Early on Saturday it starts for Brettesntes, Digermulen, Hana, Melbo, Stene 23 Be, Stokmarknoes, Koitnaes, Sortland, Skjoldehavn, Risehavn, Alfsvaag, Langnws (Ste), Sommem, Bredstrand, and Sundem. ’ ' from Bode. . LOFODEN. 29. Route. 241 On Sunday the boat returns by the same route to Brettesnaas, whence it diverges to Kjee and Ledingen. On Monday the steamer proceeds to Lidland on the Ofoteln- fjord, and to Fagernces on the Beisfjord, the E. arm of the Ofoten- fjord. It then returns by the same route to Svolvazr, where pass- engers may catch the Christiania steamer for the N. Oape. Moskenaas is theprincipal village. with the church, of the large Moskenazse. To the S. of it is the famous Malstrqm or Hosken- strum, a cataract formed like the Saltstrem (see p. 235) by the pouring of the tide through a narrow strait, but inferior to it in grandeur. It assumes a most formidable appearance, however, when on the occasion of a spring-tide the wind happens to be contrary and disturbs the regular flow of the water. There are several other rapids of the same description among the Lofoden. Islands, the navigation of which is not unattended with danger. The worst part of the Malstrem (‘grinding stream’) is at a deep sunken ridge between the Lofotodde (the S. promontory of the Moskenaese) and the Hegholmer(‘haw'k islands’), called the Horgan, where the sea seethes and foams angrily at almost all states of the tide. The Vazre lies 2 sea-miles to the S. of Lofotodden, and 4 M. to the S. of Moskenaes. The church, transferred hither from Vaage in 1799, contains an altar-shrine with reliefs in alabaster. The flat and populous island of Rest, 4 M. to the S.W. of Vaere, lies in a very lonely and open situation, forming the tip of the horn with which the Lofoden groupihas been compared. It possesses a small church, but the ‘Praest’ lives in the Vzere. Auks (Alca pica) are hunted here, as in the island of Lovunden (p. 232), with dogs trained for the purpose. The climate here is so mild that the sheep pass the winter in the open air, whence they are known as Udgangsfaare. ’ _ On the way to the N. from Moskenaes we pass the rapids of the Sundstmm, the Napstrem, and the Gimsestrem. Among the higher mountains the following deserve mention. Near Balstad (steamb. stat.) on the small island of that name, rise the Shots- tinder, and in the Vest- Vaago are the Himmeltincler and the im- posing promontory of Urebjerg. We next reach Stene, Stam- sund (steamb. stat.), and Gimse-Lyngvazr (steamb. stat.) in the Gimsestram. The steamer now calls at several stations in the Bat-Vaage. The first of these is Hen'ni'ngsvaar, above whichtowers'tlie ‘grand Vaagekalle (3090 ft.). The Skjaer, or rocky islands, to the right, are the Vestvrer, Grundskallen, and Flesene. The whole of this region is renowned for its fishery. Vast flocks of birds are fre- quently encountered, and whales are not uncommon here. In the island of Flakstade, near Sund, there is a bay called Koalvig (‘whale creek’), where numerous whales ‘are caught annually. What Bsenaxnn’s Norway'and Sweden. 2nd Edit. 16' 242 Route 29. HINDG. Excursions attracts them to this spot is unknown, but the fact that the water suddenly becomes shallow here, and that the whale has great diffi- culty in turning, constitutes the creek a natural trap from which escape is almost impossible. From Henningsvaer the next stations, Hrsvaag and Kabelvaag, can be reached by water only. Near Hrsvaag are the church and parsonage of Kirkevaag, founded at the beginning of the 12th cent., where Hans Egede, the Greenland missionary , was pastor in 1707-18. A walk may be taken from Kabelvaag by a good road to (11/2 hr.) the Norwegian manure-manufactory near Svolvaer. Imposing sce- nery. Acquaintance will thus be made with the vegetation of the islands; and the manufactory itself, where the cods’-heads are pulverised in large pans, may also be inspected. From this point it is possible to reach Svolvaer (steamb. stat.; good quarters at the Landhandler’s) by land (crossing a river and passing a picturesque lake), but as the road takes a long circuit, the steamboat is pre- ferable. Near Svolvaer rises the lofty *Svolvaerjuret, and opposite to it lies the island of Sk'roven, 1 sea-mile distant. To the N. is Molta. A navigable channel leads hence to the NE. through the Qhellesund into the Raftsund, the last of the Lofoden Streme, and separating the flstvaago from the —— Hindu, an island 860 Engl. sq. M. in extent. At the S.W. extremity of Hinde lies Digermulen (steamb. stat.), at the entrance to the Raftsund, into which the vessel now steers. The scenery here is very fine, especially at the point where the Troldfjo'rd di- verges to the'left. At the N. end of the Raftsund lies Hana (steamb. stat.), also on the Hinds. Opposite, to the N., is the island of Brodz. The steamer then crosses the Hadselfiiord (passing the Mosadelen, which rises in the Hinds to a height of 3600 ft.) to Melbo in the pleasant Utlva, from which a view of the open Arctic Ocean is obtained. Skirting this island, we next touch at -- Stene i Be on the Lange, an island with numerous peninsulas, fjords, and narrow isthmuses, forming nearly the whole W. side of the Vesteraalen group, and containing together with the Skogse five different parishes (Eie'rdinger). We next call at — Stokmarknces, steer through the narrow Baresund to Kvitnaes, in the Hindu, and thence to the N., between the Lange and the Hindu, to — Sortland on the Sortlandsund. During the whole passage the Mesadelen remains in view. Its glaciers are said to be the veil of a maiden‘ giantess fleeing from her pursuers, all of whom, like herself, have been transformed to stone. The scenery here is both grand and pleasing. The next station is - Skjoldehavn in the island of Andz. The island of Ande, about 270 Engl. sq. M. in area, is less picturesque than the others from Bode. LHDINGEN. 209. Route. 243 of the Vesteraalen group, a great part of it being occupied with flat marshes, where the ‘Multebaer’ grows abundantly. The highest mountain in the island , to the W. of Ramsaa, about 1850 ft. in height, commands a magnificent view, but the ascent is marshy and rough. A local steamer from Tromse plies to the N. coast of the Andy, call- ing at Andenws and Dverberg, whence a visit may be paid to the coal- fields of Ramsaa. Opposite Skoldehavn lies Alfsvaag in the Lange, situated on the Gavlfjord, which separates the Lange from the Ande. The steamer proceeds as far as Langenws, the N. extremity of the Lange, returns thence and steers round the S. end of the Ande to the stations Sommere, Bredstrand, and Sundere on the E. coast. The steamer now retraces its course, calling at the same stations, to Svoloazr p. 242) , whence it steers across the Vestfjord to K jee, at the S. end of the Hinde, and to —— Ledingen (tolerable quarters), picturesquely situated on a peninsula of the Hinde, which is here separated from Tjcelte and the mainland by the Tjazllsund. As all the steamboats lie here for some time, passengers will always have time to walk to the (20 min.) Church and Parsonage. Interesting flora; Multeba’r abundant. Those who have 4 hrs. to spare should ascend the Le- dingsakselen (1050 ft.), to the W. of the village. To the S. of Ledingen opens the Tysfjord, which may be visited from Korsnaes (p. 245), but the outer part of it is uninteresting. Its rami- fications, the Hellemofjord and the Botnfjord, extend inland to within 6 Eng]. M. of the Swedish frontier. From Musken, near the head of the Tys- fjord, a route leads by Kraalcmo, situated between the 4th and 5th of the seven lakes bearing the name of Sagvand, to Temmernces on the Sagfjord, and another to Hopen on the Nordfolden (p. 244). — From Kraakmo (where excellent quarters are obtainable) we may ascend the huge Kraakmotz'nd, and make an excursion by the 5th, 6th. and 7th Sagvand (the boat being dragged across the intervening necks of land) to the mag- nificent primaeval forest adjoining the 7th lake. Travellers from Kraakmo to Temmernaes on the Sagfjord (7 Kil.) cross the four lower Sagvand lakes by boat. A waterfall 50 ft. high is passed a little before the fjord is reached. — Another route leads from Drag on the Tysfjord across the picturesque Dr'agset'd to the Sagfjord. The steamboat-stations nearest the Sagfjord are Boga and Trans (pp. 244, 245). On leaving Ledingen the steamer steers to the N.E. into the Ofotenfjord, one of the largest fjords in Norway. The S. shore, on which lies Balangen, is fertile but comparatively tame. The steam- boat touches at Lidland (good quarters at Klaaboe’s), on the N. side of the fjord, at the entrance to the bay called Bogen, and then holds to the SE. to Fagernaes on the Bez'sfjord (quarters at *Mos- ling’s). The grandest scenery on this fjord is tov be found in its W. ramifications, particularly the Rombak and the Beisfjord, be- tween ‘which rise the easily ascended Tetta (5150 ft.) and Vom- tind. The Landhandler Mosling at Fagernaes will provide the traveller with a guide probably Jo Larsen, a Lapp). . To the S. from the fotenfjord diverges the imposing Skjomenfjord, at the end of "which lies *Elvegaard (good quarters). A route to Sweden 16* 244 Route 30. FOLDENFJORD. From Bode leads hence through the Sardal, passing the old copper-mines of Slcjangli (38 Kil.). By far the finest scenery here, however, is on the W. arm of the Skjomentjord, at the end of which is Skjombom, above which towers the *Froste'sen (to the W.), with its enormous glaciers. The steamer returns from Fagernaas to Lodingen in the after- noon, and then continues its homeward course, calling at the same stations as on the outward voyage. On the evening of the fifth day after its start it reaches Bode. 30. From Bode to Tromsa, Hammerfest, Varda, and Vadsa. Finmarken. North Cape. Nordkyn. 1311 M. (536 Engl. M.). STEAMBOATS (three to Hammerfest, and one to Vadso weekly), comp. pp. 221, 226. The voyage to Tromser (49 M.) usually takes 11/2, to Hammerfest (79 M.) 3, and to Vadsa (1311 M.) 5% days. Bode, see p. 234. —— The‘ steamer steers round the Hjerta, running chiefly within the Skjaergaard. On the left rises the mountainous island of Landegode. _ 4 M. Kjtrrringc, the first station, lies to the S. of the Felden- fijord, the surroundings of which are very grand. The lower part of the mountains has frequently been worn quite smooth by gla- cier-action, while their summits are pointed and serrated like the Aiguilles of Mont Blanc. One mountain in particular, of which Prof. Forbes gives a sketch (‘Norway’, p. 58), presents the appear- ance of an extinct crater. At the head of the Foldenfjord rise other huge mountains, the peak of one of which resembles the Matterhorn. The Foldenfjord divides into the Nordfolden and the Sarfolden, to both of which a local steamer plies from Body on Tuesdays and Thurs- days, in 10-12 hours. The stations are Myklebostad (10 Kil. to the N. of Bodn), Kjcea-rt'nga, Leines (on the Let'nesfjord, to the N. of Nordfolden), Nordfolden, Rcsm'k (on Sarfolden; good accomodation at Norman’s), and Dybvik (at the end of Scrfolden, on Thursdays only). From Dybvik across the Fuskee-id to Fuske on the Saltenfjord, see p. 236. The scenery is ex- ceedingly wild, and there are very few signs of cultivation. — From Sflrfolden the Leerfjord diverges to the N.E.; from Nordfolden branch off the Vinkefjord, with its prolongation the Stavfjord, and the Merkes- vikfjord. These fjords are almost entirely uninhabited. Shortly before reaching (9 Greta the steamboat passes through the Gissund, an extremely narrow strait, the bottom of which is often distinctly visible through the clear green water im- mediately under the steamer, and where the navigation requires great caution. It then passes between the Engelocer on the W. and the Skotsfjord, with the Skotstinder, on the E.,, steers east- wards into the Flagsund, bounded by the mainland on the S. and the Engels (Stegcn) on the N., and stops at 12 M. Boga. Steering in a sharp curve round Stegen, we ob- serve on the right the beautiful, but sequestered Sagfiord, which extends inland to Tammema’aahout 4 sea-miles distant. Farther on, leaving the Lands to the right, the vessel again steers out into the Vestfjord, where in clear weather a magnificent *View is rm Tromsa. HARSTADHAVN'. 30. Route. 245 disclosed of the entire Lofoden range, one of the most superb sights on the whole voyage. We now traverse the open fjord, unprotected by islands, this being one of those parts of the voyage known as ‘at rent Farvand’ (‘an open course’). The fjord contracts. To the right rises the peak of the Hammemtind. We pass the stations of Trans iHam'mer and Korsnrrs on the Tysfjord (p. 243), and next stop at — > -. 22- M. Ledingen, on the Hinde, an important station for passengers and mails for the Lofoden and Vesteraalen Islands, see p. 243. - The steamers usually leave Ledingen very early in the morning and steer through the Tjrrtlsund, which afterwards expands into the Vaags/‘jord, the scenery at first being comparatively tame. Passing (:26 Sandtorv in the Hinde, where we enter Finmarken, the northernmost province of Norway, we next touch at —- 30 M. Harstadhavn , the first station in Tromseamt, situated on a fertile height, and one of the most beautiful places on this part of the coast. Towards the E. lies an expanse of water re- sembling an Alpine lake, with snow-mountains in the background; to the N. rises the Senjehest, the S. promontory of the large island of Senjen. —— About 20 min. walk to the N.E. of Harstadhavn is the famous old church of Throndenrrs, containing a good altar-piece. A visit to it is interesting, but the steamer does not stop long enough to admit of it. Roads lead hence to the Kasfjord (view of Andre) and the church of Raa. Harstadhavn is the junction of several steamboat lines. All the large steamers touch here, and also the local boat from Tromse to Ande (see p. 243). The steamer next steers to the E. across the Vaagsfjord to the promontory of Rolde. To the left are the Gryte and the Senjehest, between which a glimpse of the open sea is obtained. We now pass through the strait between the Rolde and the Andorja. 32 M. Havnvilc, in the Rolde. The church, in Ibestad, is, like that of Throndenaes, of stone with a vaulted roof, while all the other churches in Tromse Stift are timber-built. To the S.E., on the mainland, towers the Messetind (3320 ft.), to the S. of which rises the Skavlilcollen (3300 ft.). Both of these mountains may be ascended, with a guide, the first from the Gratangenfjord, the second from the Gra'vfjord. ' The scenery becomes very grand as we steam through the Sa- langenfiord, between the Andorje and the mainland. On the left rises the huge Aa'rbodstind, with a large glacier and a fine water- fall, and on the right the pointed Fazrtind (4120 ft. ; Fax, ‘mane’, ‘fringe’). The scene is most impressive at the next station — 35 M. Kaatnmshavn, whence all these mountains, including the pinnacle of the Faxtind , are seen simultaneously, while the horizon to the W. is bounded by the mountains of Anda and others. -— To the W. lies the Dyre, with the Dyrasund. The voyage be- 246 Route 30. MALANGENFJORD. From. Bode tween Havnvik (or even between Harstadhavn) and Kastnaeshavn should on no account be missed by the traveller, and the scenery should be witnessed both in going and in returning. The writer, who saw this sublime spectacle both in bright sunshine and in wild, stormy weather, considers it unsurpassed in Norway. -- In the Salangenfjord, as well as elsewhere, it should be observed that the glacier-action has, had the effect of wearing smooth the lowest third of the mountains (‘roches moutonnées’), while the two-thirds above are rough and serrated. The 'I‘RoMso LOCAL STEAMBOATS touch at Sm’e-ien in the Salangenfjord. from which a journey to the E. to the Bardudat and the Maalselvsdal may be undertaken (see below). Passengers by the larger steamers reach Seveien by landing at Hamwilc and rowing thence (3 sea-miles). 39 M. Ktaven, on the large island of Senjen. Large quantities of K'vciter (Hippoglossus maximus; skate) are taken here, some- times attaining a length of 7—10 ft. To the rises the snow- clad Ghirragas- Tjoklco, or Istinden. 42 M. Gibostad, also in the island of Senjen, which is separated from the mainland by the strait through which the steamboat passes. The shores on both sides are green, wooded, and tolerably well peopled, and in the background rise snow-clad mountains, the chief of which is the Broddenfjeld to the S. — Though still pleasing, the scenery between Kastnasshavn and the Malangenfjord is inferior to that above described. The *Malangenfjord, with the fjords to the N. and S. of it, forms a large cross, the four arms of which are seen at one time from the deck of the steamer, while to the N.W. we obtain a glimpse of the open sea through the Vangs Haosoie. The fjord, which formed the N. frontier of Norway in the middle ages, is enclosed by lofty mountains in every direction. To the S. rise the snowy A'Iaatset'usdat Mountains. The steamer‘does not enter the deep indentations formed by the Nordfjord and Auerfijord, but touches at (47 Maalsnces on a promontory in the Malangenfjord, near the mouth of the M aatsclv, the waters of which still ruffle the surface of the fjord. The estuary of the river freezes in winter, but the fjord remains open lower down. A very interesting excursion may be made from Maalsnees through the Iaalselvadal to the S.E. to the Rosta-Vand and the Rostafjeld (a carriole-drive'of about 6 M), and another to the S. to the Alte-Vand in the Bardudal. —— Instead of returning to Maalsnaes, the traveller may proceed from Ko'rkemoen in the Bardudal to the W. to Sovez'en on the Salangenfjord (see above). —— The inhabitants of these valleys are chiefly colonists (Indflytterfolk) from the Ksterdat (valley of the Glommen, p. 206) and the-Gudbrandsdal (p. 116), the first of whom were induced to settle here by the chamberlain Berndt Ancker in 1796. 1. Trmouenrrua MAALSELVSDAL To run Ros'rxvarw. We drive from Maalsmes (to which it is advisable to telegraph beforehand for horses) past Hollwndernws, a place deriving its name from the settlement which the Dutch once attempted to found here against the will of the German merchants of Bergen, by whom the whole trade of Norway was then monopolised. This circumstance is alluded to by Peter Dass in the foll- owing lines: —~ to Tromso. MAALSELVSDAL. 30. Route. 247 ‘Men der denne Handel lidt laenge paastod, Da blev det de Bergenske Kjebmaend imod, Hollaenderne maatte sig pakke.’ (But their trade was soon doomed to expire By the merchants of Bergen in ire: So the Dutchmen had soon to be off.) The first station in this picturesque valley is (14 Kil.) Guldhav. The road then leads past the church of Storbakken to (11Kil.) Moen. The im- posing mountain facing us is the Ghz'rragas Tjokko, or Istinden (about 5150 ft. high), somewhat resembling a crater. An excellent point of view is the mountain called Lille Mauket, near Moen, 1850 ft. in height. (The rest of this route lies beyond the limits of the Map.) Passing the small stations of (11 Kil.) Bakkenhaug and (9 Kil.) Neer- gaard, with its small church, we arrive at Hve-rby (poor quarters), which, with the Nordgaard, lies at the confluence of the Maalselv and the Tab~ mokelv. Above the Rostavand rises the huge Rostafjeld (5150 ft.), the ascent of which is not difficult, and may even be undertaken by moun- taineers without a guide. The route is to Gaarden Kongsh'd (very good quarters), whence the ascent is made through a small valley on the E. side. Wild reindeer are sometimes seen on the way. Opposite the Rosta- field, to the 8., rise the Lz'kkavarre, Rutero, Alap and Seutt'varr'e (Kam- mesfjeld); to the S.E. the Likkafjeld; to the E. quite near, the Brattifield. 2. THROUGH THE BABDUDAL TO THE ALTEVAND. We follow the above route to Moen, and drive thence to (14 Kil.) Finsund, the first station in the Bardudal. Near Fosrnoen, in the vicinity, is the Bardufos, a fine waterfall of the Barduelv. To the left rise the Istz'nder, the westernmost of which may be ascended; to the right the equally lofty Alafleld. The next stations in the Bardudal are (14 Kil.) Rydm'ngen and (9 Kil. Kirkemo, where the road to Seveien on the Salangenfjord diverges to the 7W. —- From this point to (8 Kil.) Viken and the Altenvand the road is uninteresting. From Slrems-moen (good quarters) onwards it is rarely used except by Finnish traders on their way to Sweden in winter. —- On the Altenvand, about 14 Kil. beyond Viken, boats are always procurable. To the N. of the lake rises the Guolaecerro (‘box mountain‘, 5660 ft.), and to the S. the Rokombor're (5350 ft.). At its efflux from the lake the Barduelv forms a deep ravine, which is so narrow that a man can leap across it. 3. Fnon KIRKEMO 'ro Severn: ON THE SALANGENFJORD. A good road crosses the hill called Kobberyggen ('seal’s back’) to (11 Kil.) Kroken. We next drive to (6 Kil.) Elvebakken, then along the Nedr'e Vand to Vashoved, and lastly to Sevez'en (p. 246), about 28 Kil. more. The above routes may be combined thus: 1st Day. From Maalsnses to .Gvreby or to Kongslid. 2nd Day. Ascend the Rost-afjeld. 3rd Day. Drive to Kirkemoen in the Bardudal. 4th Day. Drive to Snveien. Several routes lead from the Maalsdalselv to the Balsfjord. The easiest (with guide) is from Olsbor'g, a little to the N. of the Mom station, to Storstenees (1st day), from which it is possible to reach Nordkjos, at the SE. end of the fjord, by boat on the same day. Steamboat thence on the Balsfjord, on the E. bank of which rise several mountains upwards 0f 5000 ft. high, to Tromso'. — Instead of taking the steamer direct to Tromsfl, enterprising travellers may proceed (boat and guide not easily procured; gnats in abundance) from Nordkjos in one day to Moelen at the S. end of the Lyngenfjord, and row thence to (28 Kil.) Skt'botlen (good quarters). Thence by boat next day to (17 Kil.) Lyngen, where the Tromse steamer is reached. — The Lyngenfjord is described on the way from Tromse to Hammerfest (see p. 251). Leaving Maalsnaas, the steamer returns to the centre of the cross formed by the Malangenfjord (passing the huge Bensjordtind, 4430 ft., on the right), and then steers to the N.E., skirting the large island Koala on the left, into the Tromsesund (‘Til Troms’), on which lies —— , ' 248 Route 30. . From Tromse 49 M. Tromse. 4— Hotols. GRAND HOTEL, R. 2%, B. 1 kr.; Ho‘rsr. GARNI, both to the W. of the church. Booksellers: Holmboe and Nilsen. —— Photographer: Vickstrem, near the market, who sells photographs of Lapps. -— Furs (polar-bears’ skins, etc.) at several large shops. Steamers. Several local steamboats ply from Tromse to the Lofoden and Vesteraalen Islands, and to the Ulfs, Lyngen, Reisen, and Koenang Eiords. All the large Nordland steamers also call here. Comp. Commun- icationer. ‘ Tromse, a town with 5400 inhab. , picturesquely situated on the island of the, same name, and on rock of a peculiar shell- formation, lies in 69° 38’ N. latitude. It was raised to the rank of a town in 1794, and is a busy and gay little place, admirably adapted for a stay of some days by way of interlude on the voyage to the North Cape. The annual mean temperature is 353/50 Fahr., that of July 50°, and that of January 23°, while in the interior of Finmarken the annual temperature is 29° only and that of January 5°. In the market-place are the Town Hall and the neat Roman Catholic Church. The interesting Museum, near the Grand Hotel, founded in 1872, comprises an'ethnographical and a nat- ural history department, the latter containing a good zoological collection. Tromse also boasts of a grammar-school, a school for ‘teachers, a bank, a telegraph-office, and a number of large shops. English and German are frequently spoken. The streets are cov- ered with gravel, and the footpaths are flanked with a bank of earth. The main street, running from N. to S., commands a view in the one direction of the snow-clad Skulgamtinder on the Ring- vadse and in the other of the Bensjordtind. The town is embel- lished with many mountain-ashes, wild cherry-trees, and birches, the latter being remarkably fine. The long building on the hill is a ropery. Above the town, which stands on a slope, is a beautiful grove of birches, where a number of villas have sprung up. From this point we obtain a view of the Tromsdal and the Tromstind beyond the strait towards the E. ; to the S. rises the snow-clad Bensjord- tind on the Malangenfjord; to the N. are the Skulga'mtinder in the Ringvadse; and to the W. are the Blaamand, Stantind, and Vastz'nd, on the Kvale. This prospect is very striking, especially when seen by the subdued lustre of the sun at midnight, when half the community is still astir. The Harbour of Tromse always presents a busy scene, and among the vessels are generally several of French nationality. They bring goods of various kinds, and carry away cargoes of salted cod-roe (Rogn), which is used as bait in the sardine-fishery. The principal exports are, however, dried fish, herrin'gs, train oil, and furs, most of which are dispatched to‘Hamburg. ‘Troms’e also carries on a considerable trade with Russia, and equips-‘a number of vessels for the capture of seals, walruses, etc., on ‘the coasts of Spitzbergen and Nova Zembla. — The harbour of Tromso is ap- to Vadse. TROMSDAL. 30. Route. 249 preached by two straits, the Gretsund and Fuglsund on the N., and the-Malangcnfjord on the S. side. An *ExounsroN TO THE TROMSDAL (‘Balm’), for the purpose of seeing a Lapp settlement, should not be omitted (4 hrs., there and back). The captain of the steamboat will order boats and guides beforehand by telegraph (total expense, about 30 kr.], so that passengers, immediately on landing, may cross the Sand, 500 yds. wide, to Storstemrs at the entrance to the Tromsdal. Thence to the Lapp Encampment is a walk of about 11/2 hr., the ground being rough and somewhat marshy at places. The path leads through a birch-wood on the S. bank of the brawling stream, and passes numerous patches of snow. We at length reach a kind of basin, with the Tromstind rising on the S., and a waterfall on the S. side, where there is a colony of a few Lapp families from the Swedish district of Karesuando —i~, who occupy five Darfe Goattelt or Gammer. - The Gamma is a dome-shaped hut, formed of stone, turf, and birch-bark, with a round opening at the top for the exit of smoke and the admission of light. Each but is always provided with a fire, over which is suspended a pot or kettle, and around it recline the inmates. The hearth is called Aran, and the seat of honour beside it Boasso. These Lapps pos- sess a herd of no fewer than 4-5000 reindeer, but a few hundred only, enclosed in a Rengjazrde, into which they are driven to be milked, are usually shown to visitors (a small fee expected]. Among the pretty and useful articles manufactured by these Lapps are fur-boots (Skal-Komager, or Shatter, while ordinary leather shoes are called Gabmagalt) and spoons and other objects in reindeer-horn. The traveller should taste the rich reindeer- milk, which is drunk diluted with water, and observe the peculiar crackling of the animal’s knee-joints, reminding one of the sound produced by an electric battery. The reindeer are caught by a kind of lasso, which is thrown over their horns. They are milked twice a week only. Reindeer milk forms one of the chief articles of food among the Lapps. The cheese made of it is generally re- served for use in winter. The number of Lapps in Norway is estimated at about 18,(D0, of whom 1700 are still nomadic in their habits. Sweden and Russia con- tain ‘12,000‘more, so that the powerful race which once dominated the whole of Scandinavia has dwindled away to a total of 30,0(D souls. The Lapps now intermarry freely with Norwegians and Finns. In Nor- way they are often called Finner, while the Finns are named Keener, from the lan of Kajana in Finland. -— From the fact that the dog alone has a genuine Lapp name (Boednag), while the other domestic animals bear names of Germanic or Finnish origin, it has been concluded that the Lapps were originally a race of hunters, who adopted the ‘nomadic 1- ‘In accordance with the frontier-treaty. of 7th-18th Oct. 1751, the Swedish Lapps are entitled to migrate to the Norwegian coast in summer, and the Norwegian Lapps -to Sweden in winter. — These'migrations are said to lead to frequent disputes with the permanent inhabitants (comp. Fm‘t's, Finmarken). 250 Route 30. TROMSTIND. From Tromsa life within the historic period. On this theory the reindeer, now the prin- cipal source of the Lapp’s wealth, was at first an object of the chase only. Among the numerous works on the Lapps may be mentioned: Mil- ford’s ‘Norway and her Laplanders’, 1842; Everest’s ‘Journey through Norway, Lapland, etc.”, 1829; G. 'v. Dfiben’s ‘Om Lappland och Lapparne', Stockholm, 1873; Frtis‘s ‘En Sommer i Finmarken’, Kristiania, 1871; Fm'is’s ‘Lappisk Mythologie, and Lappiske Eventyr‘, Kristiania, 1871; Stockfleth’s ‘Dagbog over min Missionsreise iFinmarken”, 1860; J. Vahl’s ‘Lapperne, etc.‘, 1866. The Tromstind (4045 ft.) may be ascended from the Lapps' camp in 3-4 hrs. (guide, Gajuson Jasanraa, a Lapp, 2-3 kr.). We first walk to the (1 hr.) head of the valley, which terminates in an amphiteatre of mountains resembling those in the Pyrenees. We then ascend the steep slope to the left, at first over turf and afterwards over snow (snow-spectacles desirable). Herds of reindeer are often met with at pasture here. Before reaching the crest of the hill we have to climb over a very steep snow-field. The final ascent, over snow and detritus, is easier. The top, which is marked by a ‘Varde’, commands a view of the magnificent scenery around the Ulsfjord and the Lyngenfjord; to the W. the sea of ice above Tromso and the Kvalo. On the E. side the mountain falls almost perpendicularly to a neck of land between the Ulsfjord and the Balsfjord (Ramfjord). Leaving Tromse, the steamer steers through the Tromsosund, passing Skatercn on the left, and enters the Grotsund. To the left lie the Koala, the mountainous Ring‘vadse (with a glacier and a lake formed by a moraine), and the Reina, at the S. extremity of which lies Finkroken. Opposite, on the mainland, is the Ulfstind, standing like a sentinel at the mouth of the Ulfsfiord, which here opens to the S. The Ulfsfjord, which penetrates into the land for a distance of 37 Engl. M., between the peninsulas of Stuoranja'rga (on the right) and Iddonjarga, is traversed weekly by a steamer from Tromso'. The first steamboat-station in the fjord is Ulfsnces, to the S. of the Jazgervand, be- hind which tower the Joegervandst'indc'r, with their conspicuous glaciers (visible from the steamers passing the‘ end of the fjord). The steamer next touches at Gjem'k, at the entrance to the bay of *Kjosen, which is enclosed by huge glacier-covered mountains. On the S. side rise the Forncestt'nd (about 6000 ft.; comp. p. 251), the Redbjergttnd, the Reu'ntes- tind, and the Jertt'nd; on the N., the Sofieta'nd, the Tyttebawm'k (at the foot of which lie the gaards of Kjensberg and Tyttebccrm'k), and the K jos- tinder. At the head of the bay lies the station of Kjosen (tolerable quar- ters), whence we may cross the ‘Bid’ to (3/4 hr.) Lyngen, see p. 251. The steamer now returns to the main fjord and passes through the narrow strait of Stq'o'mmen, in which the current is very powerful, to the S. part of the Ulfstjord, named the Szrfjord. The ;E. bank of the Sor- fjord is flat, but the Dm-maalstind (4300 ft.), the Joeggevarre, and other summits are visible. Above the steep W. bank tower the Fuglenoeb, the Ratt'vasoatvve, and the Nakfield. The only station in this fjord is Sanfjordens Kirke, at the base of the Sjurnaast'ind, which the steamer reaches about 8 hrs. after leaving Tromso. The return-passage to Tromsfl takes only 5 hours. The large steamer next touches at (57 Karlse, where the storms and fogs which prevail in the Arctic Ocean are frequently encountered. The milk-white mist often lies on the surface of the water only, while the sky is bright and sunny. In this case the steamer has to cast anchor, and the traveller will have abundant to Vadsa. LYNGEN. 30. Route. 251 leisure to observe the peculiar white Skoddebuer (Skodde, ‘scud’, ‘mist’; Bue, ‘bow’y, formed by the fog. The Karlse is a lonely and treeless island. To the N. lies the Vanna, and to the E. rise the mountains of the Lyngenfjord (see below). The steamer now rounds the promontory of Lyngstuen (2130 ft.), and we observe to the N. the picturesquely shaped and uninhabited Fugla (2575 ft.), to the S.E‘. of which lies the large Arne. In front of us is the small Vortera, behind which we perceive the beautiful outline of the Kaaga (3960 ft.), with a glacier high above the water. This is another very striking point on our north- ern voyage. To the S. we survey the whole of the magnificent **Lyngenfjord, on the W. side of which is an unbroken chain of huge mountains and glaciers, 5-6500 ft. in height. To the S. of the promontory of Lyngstuen tower the *Plpertind, the *Goat- zagaise (6000 ft.), the Kopangstind, Fastdalstind, and the immense Kjostinder. From almost all these mountains (where the snow-line is about 3800 ft.) imposing glaciers descend far into the valleys. The rocky walls are also draped with numerous waterfalls. The LYNGI-INFJURD is also traversed regularly by a local steamboat from Tromss (p. 248), which makes the excursion in 3 days. Those who do not wish to make the whole circular trip may break the journey at Lyngen and return by the Ulsfjord route (see p. 250), or they may join the large northward-bound steamer in the Skjeerva. The steamer touches at Skateren (p. 250), the Helga, and the Karlse, and then steers round the promontory of Lyngstuen into the Lyngenfjord. The snow—clad peaks on the W. side of the fjord tower to an immense height above. The principal stations on the W. bank are the island of Aareholmen and Lyngse'idet (see below), on the E. bank Dybm'lc, Langnaes in the Kaafjord, and Skibotten and Horsnoes in the Storfjord, or S. prolon- gation of the Lyngentjurd. Lyngse-z'det or Lyngen (good quarters), containing a small church and the houses of the pastor, doctor, and Lensmand of the district, _is pleas- antly situated in the midst of birch woods, and is admirably adapted as a starting-point for excursions to the interesting and partly unexplored mountains in the neighbourhood. — A very picturesque excursion, taking 6-7 hrs., may be made to the S.W. to the mountain-basin enclosed by the Goalse'varre (11150 ft.), the Rarnaestz'nder (about 4100 ft.), and the Jerli'nd (about 3600 ft.). —- A fine excursion for one day is made by crossing the Eid (200ft.) to Kjosen (p. 250), rowing to the (1 hr.) Fornoesdal, and then ascending the valley on foot, crossing the old moraines, to the For- nwsdal Glacier, which descends from the Golzevaggegat'ssa and is wedged in between the Fornwstc'nd and the Durmaalstind. — The following tour occupies 11/2 day: On horseback to the S. to Pollen, and by rowing~boat to Dalen, where somewhat primitive quarters can be procured for the night; next day ascend, on foot, through the beautiful but entirely unl- inhabited Lyngsdal, passing the Jceggevam'e (3740 ft.) on the N., to the huge glacier descending from the main plateau (lower end 1300 ft. above the sea). From the Lyngsdal we may also ascend the Njala'varre (5010 ft.) to the S., or walk to the N. to the glaciers of the Ruksisvaggegaissa. It may be mentioned here that the glaciers of the Lyngenfjord are not of the deep blue colour which characterises t..ose of S. Norway. -— Those who contemplate any of the above excursions are strongly recommended to possess themselves of the Kart aver Tromsa Amt (four sheets, at 1 kr. II. per sheet) and of the Beskrivelse af Tromsa Amt (1 kr.), both published by the ‘Geografi‘ske Opmaaling’ of Christiania. Route 30. ALTENFJORD. From Tromse After traversing the Lyngenfjord the steamer touches at Havnoes on the S. extremity of the Ute, and steers through the Rotsund and the Mam-- sand, calling at the station of that name. It then passes Se'rlrjos and reaches the Skjoerve (see below). Farther on it passes Nikkeby, at the S. end of the Logo, and turns to the SE. into the Kvenangfjord, at the mouth of which rise the peaked Kvenangstz'nder'. To the E. is the Jokelfjeld, from which a. glacier descends into the Jokelfjord. The steamer touches at the island of Skorpen, at Stramnces, and at Alteidet, whence a road leads to (15 Kil.) the Langm- fjord, an arm of the Altenfjord (steamer, see below). In spring a herd of 5000-7000 reindeer is driven across the Altet'd to the peninsula of Alnas- Njarg to the N. of the Bid, and some 2000 are conveyed thence by boat to the Stjerne (p. 253). About the end of October these last return to the mainland, to which they are made to swim (a distance of 3 Engl. M.). All these tame animals have the owner’s mark on their ears, to facilitate the recognition of stragglers (Efterstandere), which sometimes remain for weeks behind the main herd. — From Alteidet the steamer returns to Tromso by nearly the same route as it came. The steamer now traverses the Kaagsund, between the Arne and the Kaage. To the N.E. of the latter is the small island of ~— 82 M. Skjoerve; the station lies in a bay on the E. side of the island. To the S. we obtain a view of the picturesque Kvenangs- tinder on the Koenangfjord (see above). —— The steamer's course is now across the open sea, towards the N., crossing the boundary of Tromse Fogderi, to — - 66 M. Loppen, the first station in the Atten Fogderi, a small island exposed to the full sweep of the gales of the Arctic Ocean. It possesses a small church and a turf-roofed parsonage, a two- storied house to the left of which belongs to a merchant. Almost the only vegetation in the place consists of a few meagre patches of potatoes , everything else being unable to defy the fury of the storms which sometimes prevail here for weeks together. Ptarmi- gan abound. —— The steamer next steers to the S. into the Berge- fiord, rounds the wedge-shaped island of Silden, and stops at the station of -— _ 70 M. Bcrgsfjord, where we enjoy a magnificent mountain scene. In the background is a glacier, the discharge of which forms a waterfall. Passing the Lersnrrs, and turning to the S.E., we next reach ~— 72 M. Qlcsfiord, on the Alnas-Njarg peninsula , with a noble amphitheatre of mountains around it, a conspicuous feature in which is a glacier to the W., descending from the extensive Je- kelfield. A little to the N. is the small church. The ‘Land- handler’ here is one of the richest in Finmarken. The Altenfjord may either be visited by taking the local steamer from Tromse to Altet'det and thence crossing the neck of land between the Kvenangfjord and the Langenfjord, or by the local steamer which plies between Q'ksfjord, the Altenfjord, and Hammerfest. (Travellers coming from the N. take the steamer from Hammerfest to the Alten- fjord, and proceed thence either to .O'ksfjord or to Alteidet.) The Altenfjord is a beautiful arm of the sea, and is remarkable for its ‘rich vegetation, especially in its southern part (the Altenbygd). In the annals of literature, too , it has been rendered famous by the visits of almost all the'eminent travellers and savants who have explored this to Vadse. HAMMERFEST. 30. Route. 253 part of Norway (L. v. Buch, Prof. Forbes, and others already mentioned; also by Keilhau, who has written a ‘Reise ifist- og Vest~Finmarken‘, pub. 1831, and Ch. Martins, whose ‘Von Spitzbergen zur Sahara' is a good German authority). The highest mountains on the fjord, all on the W. side, are Kaaven, between Stjernsund and Langfjord, Akkasolsz', between Langfjord and Tal- vik, and Haldz', between Talvik and the Kaafjord, each about 3000 ft. in height. At the end of the fjord, above Kaafjord, rises the Nuppivarre (2675 ft.). -— On the E. side of the Altenfjord is the interesting Aaa'e, with the scanty ruins of the old fort of Altenhus. The most famous feature of the Altenfjord consists in its various old Coast-lines, parti- cularly near Bossekop, formed by the gradual rising of the land, some of them upwards of 200 ft. above the present level of the water. The local steamer steers from Q'ksfjord across the mouth of the Lang- enfjord and touches at —- Talm'k (‘pine bay’) , a beautiful spot, with a church; then at Strems- noes on the Kaafj ord, whence a visit may be paid to Kaafjords Kobbervaark, a copper-mine of no great value, the property of an English company. We then reach — Bossekop (‘whale bay’; bosso is the Lapp word for ‘whale’, or lit- erally ‘blower’; goppe, bay; good quarters), at the foot of the Kongs- havnjfield (700 ft.). Important fairs are held here on Dec. 1st and Mar. 3rd, to which hundreds of Lapps flock in their curious sledge-boats. They bring with them reindeer flesh, butter, and game, which they ex- change for fish, flour, and groceries. Sometimes 10,000 ptarmigans are offered for sale at a single fair. — To the E. of Bossekop lie Altengaard and Elvebakken, near the Altenelv, an excellent salmon-river, and beyond them lies Rafsbom. -— The steamer then proceeds from the Altenfjord through the Vargsund, a strait between the mainland and the islands of Stjerne and Sez'land, to the island of Koala (‘whale island’), on which Hammerfest is situated. The channel divides here. On the E. is the Kvalsund, running towards the N., while on the W. is a strait between the Kvale and Seiland, called Stremmen, once a famous resort of whales, through which the steamboat reaches Hammerfest. From Bossekop or Alten, at the head of the Altenfjord, to Karasjolc and to Ha'pardnda in Sweden, see R. 31. Our course is now to the N. , towards the mountainous Sam, which, as well as the Stjeme and Seiland, islands lying to the S. of it, consists to a great extent of a lofty plateau of the charac— ter common among the mountains of Finmarken. At the S. end of this island, about 4 M. to the N. of Hksfjord, lies Hasoilc, the next station , 70 M. from Tromse by the direct route. The vessel steers through the broad Sersund, round the Fuglnces, and passes on the left the curiously shaped island of Haajen. The steamer now reaches -— . 79 M. Hammerfest (Jensen’s Hotel, Hotel Nordpolen, both at the W. end), the ‘northernmost town in the world’, situated in 70° 40' N. lat. , which has enjoyed municipal privileges since 1787 , had 77 inhab. only in 1801, but now numbers about 2100. Its trade with Russia and the Spitzbergen expeditions organised here are the chief resources of the place. The climate is mild, the mean temperature here being the same as at Tromse (see above). Sportsmen and Arctic explorers may charter a vessel here for a northward cruise for a sum of 3000-6000 kr., according to its size and the duration of the voyage. The traveller’s destination (Spitzbergen, Nova Zembla, etc.), the objects of the voyage, and. 254 Route 30. - TYVEN. From Tromse~ other particulars should of course be stated in the charter-party. —— The town presents a neat and clean appearance , but smells strongly of cod—liver oil, the chief manufactories of which are in the Gronnervoldsgade. Lapps in their quaint and picturesque costumes, often intoxicated, and Finns from the principality of Finland, are frequently seen in the streets. The Russian vessels trading with Hammerfest are generally of the ordinary European build, the old—fashioned Lodjc, a clumsy kind of lugger with two masts and disproportionately large cabin-windows, being now rare. Some of the shops, where bear-skins, walrus-tusks (Hvalros, ‘whale-horse’), Lapp costumes, and other specialties of the country are sold, are attractive. — The Church stands on a rocky hill to the W. of the town, and is adjoined by the Churchyard, enclosed by a stone wall. —— On the E. side of the town are seen numerous Hjct- clear, or wooden frames for the drying of fish. Crossing the outlet of the Lake to the E. of the town, and following the road round the harbour, where a number of civilised Gammer, or Lapp huts (comp. p. 349), are seen on the rocky shore, we may walk in 1/2 hr. to Fugtna’s, the N. promontory of the island, with a lighthouse, commanding a fine view. In 1823 Sir Edward Sabine made some of his famous experiments with the pendulum here. A column in granite called the Meridianstette, has also been erected here to commemorate the measurement in 1816-52 of the number of de- grees between Ismail near the mouth of the Danube and this point, undertaken, as the Latin and Norwegian inscription records, ‘by the geometers of three nations, by order of King Oscar I. and the Emperors Alexander I. and Nicholas’. The hills to the E. of the Meridianstette command a view of the horizon of the Arctic Ocean and the midnight sun. To the S. of the harbour is a valley extending into the interior of the Kvalo, whence a path ascends to the top of *Sadtcn (pron. Salon), a long hill rising above Hammerfest, from which dangerous avalanches (Sncskredc) frequently fall. This is a very fine point of view, though not high enough to afford an unimpeded survey of the midnight sun. Ascending gradually for about ‘20 min. more, we reach the summit of the Sadlen, which commands a view of the glaciers and snow-mountains of Seiland and the Sore. This point may also be reached from the church, at the W. end of the town, but the ascent is steep, and there is no path. If the traveller spends 4 hrs. or more at Hammerfest he should not omit to ascend the *Tyven (1230 ft. ; t'ufva, ‘hill’), which rises to the S. of the town (11/2-2 hrs.). The following directions will enable him to dispense with a guide. A few paces to the E. of the harbour we turn to the right into the valley and ascend a slight eminence with houses; we then follow the road leading above a lake and some pleasant-looking meadows. On the opposite bank are seen the remains of a birch—wood , and at the end of the lake to Vadse. TYvEN. 30. Route. 255 the villas of the townspeople. We soon diverge to the right, follow- ing the telegraph-wires, but keeping a little to the right in order to avoid the marshy ground. The Tyven is the hill at the foot of which the wires run. A little farther on we pass under the wires and ascend to the left to a height covered with loose stones , pass a small pond, and reach (1hr.) the foot of the abrupt Tyven. Here we turn to the left andskirt the base of a huge precipice, ascend- ing the somewhat steep course of a small brook, fringed with wil- lows (Salim arctica) and dwarf birches (Betula nana). At the top of the gully we obtain a view of the sea towards the W. and the villas on the lake to the W., above which lies another small lake. Large herds of tame reindeer, whose peculiar grunting (‘Grynten’) is heard from a long distance, always graze here in summer. We now ascend steeply to the right, passing an expanse of snow, which lies on the right, and then, keeping still more to the right, reach (3/4 hr.) the summit, which is marked by a pyramid of stones (Varde). The Tyven, which may be called the Rigi of Fin- marken, descends very precipitously on the W. side, with the sea washing its base, adjoining which lies a bay with meadows, a birch-wood , and a number of houses. Towards the E. we survey the barren and desolate Koala, with its numerous ponds , and to the S. and W. extensive mountain-ranges, snow-fields, and gla- ciers. The islands of Seiland and Sara are particularly con- spicuous. To the N. stretches the unbounded horizon of the vast Arctic Ocean. Of Hammerfest itself the Fuglnaes only is visible. The formation of the coast recalls that of Sorrento and Ischia. Another prominent feature in the landscape is the promontory extending to the W. as far as Stremmen, over which the Lapps drive their reindeer in spring and autumn on their way to and from the island of Seiland. The animals swim across the Strom- men-Sund (comp. p. 252). The lower part of the Tyven consists of gneiss, the upper part of slate. The flora is interesting. In many places its surface is carpeted with the dwarf birch. —— The best way to return is by the summit of the Sadlen , to the W., which commands a similar, though less extensive view. Returning by this route, the travel- ler should allow 4 hrs. for the whole excursion, but 3-31/2 hrs. sufflce for the direct ascent and descent. The ‘northernmost wood in the world’, a birch-wood about 4Engl. M. to the S. of Hammerfest, which books of travel never fail to mention, is not worth visiting. —— If time and weather permit, the traveller should endeavour to take an excursion by boat to the grand and almost unexplored Glaciers of Seiland , which rise to a height of more than 3000 ft., the finest being on the W. and S.W. sides of the island. They are most conveniently approached through a valley ascending from the Slcrcifjord. — The island of Haajen (‘the shark’), 4 Engl. M. to the W. of Hammerfest, is another interesting object for an 256 Route 30. HAVHSUND. From Hammerfest excursion. The highest point, which is easily reached, commands an imposing view. Beyond Hammerfest the land. ceases to be an object of interest or value, the sea becoming the sole attraction. The vegetation is extremely scanty, so much so that a patch of grass ‘which might be covered with a copy of the Times’ is hailed as a meadow and attracts a colony of several families. The Alpine character of the scenery of Tromse and W. Finmarken entirely ceases , and both mainland and islands now consist of vast “and monotonous pla- teaux, called Nce'ringe, rising to a height of 1000-2000 ft., and generally unrelieved by valleys. The only prominent peaks in this region are the Stappe, near the North Cape. The steamboat traverses long fjords, particularly in E. Finmarken, where no sign of vegetation or of human dwellings is to be seen, and where the silence and solemnity of the scene is only broken by im- mense flocks of sea-fowl wheeling over shoals of fish or con- gregating around their island homes, and by the occasional un- wieldy gambols and noisy spouting of a whale. At the heads of these fjords, on the other hand, we frequently find smiling little colonies, surrounded with bushes and trees, and houses boasting of the amenities of pianos, newspapers, and engravings. With the North Cape terminates the, Skjaergaard, or island-belt of Western Norway, and the coast is here washed by the long sweeping waves of the Arctic Ocean. Fogs often prevail here, causing detention and even danger to the steamboats. The Norwegian vessel in which the writer performed the voyage in 1877 here picked up the crew of a large Swedish steamer from Archangel, bound for England , which had been wrecked on this iron-bound coast. The unfortunate sailors had saved nothing but a compass, a clock, and a dog. At Hammerfest, therefore, the traveller must weigh the in- ducements to prolonging his voyage against the drawbacks. The North Cape should of course be visited, but beyond it the sole at- traction of the voyage consists in the utter bleakness and solemnity of the scenery. The chief points of interest beyond the North Cape are Sva’rholt, the largest sea-fowl island in Norway, the Kjellefiord, and the Nordkyn. The Svaerholt at least should be visited, as it may be reached in a few hours from the ‘North Cape or from Kjelvik. Faon HAMMERFEST 'ro Vance (21/2 days). The Hamburg ‘steamers are the only ones which ply regularly from Hammerfest to Vadse, but in summer the boats of the other lines go as far as the North Cape, allowing time there for an ascent of the Cape. Comp. the Communicationer. The Hamburg steamer sometimes passes round the North. Cape, and sometimes steers to Qjcsvazr, to the W. of the Gaps, and thence round the S. side of the Magere, so that pass- to Vadse. GJESVJER. 30. Route. 257 engers bound for the Cape must land at Gjesvaer or at Kjelvik. Travellers, who intend to devote several days to the Cape and its neighbourhood, should in any case disembark at one or other of these places. The first station beyond Hammerfest, 5 M. to the N., is — 84 M. Rolfsehavn, on the Rolfse, an exceedingly desolate island. To the N. of the Rolfse, and separated from it by the Troltsund, is the Inge, beyond which lies the Fruholm, with the northernmost lighthouse in Norway (71° 6’). To this island a noble Danish lady is said once to have been banished for certain misdeeds and after a residence here of several years to have per- ished owing to the upsetting of a boat when on her way to the church of Inge. —Farther on, to the N. of the Hjelme, we observe a solitary pillar of rock, called H jelmesteren, adjoining which is an island frequented by sea-fowl. The auks when disturbed take to the water, while the gulls soar aloft in dense flights. To the N.E. rise the pinnacles of the Stappene. 87 M. Have lies in a bay on the Hare, amid grand scenery. To the left rises a pointed hill called the Sukkertop (‘sugar- loaf’). The little settlement, which boasts of a church, a ‘Praest’, and a ‘Landhandler’, is sheltered by the Hjelme on the N. from the storms of the Arctic Ocean. Crossing the Maassund, and pass- ing the Kulfjord to the S., we next reach the (89 M.) M'aase, which likewise possesses its church, its pastor, and its merchant, a triad which forms the nucleus of almost every village in Fin- marken. Numerous Hjelder, or frames for drying fish, are seen here. To the right rises the Magere (‘sea-gull island’), with its numerous pinnacles, the northernmost promontory of which is the North Cape. To the N.W. the Stappene become more conspicuous. 91 M. Gjesveer (good quarters at the Landhandler’s), the next station, lies on an island in the midst of majestic Arctic scenery, unrelieved by the slightest trace of vegetation. From this re- mote corner of the globe, close to the North Cape, and nearly 1600 Engl.M. to the N.W. of London, the traveller may telegraph to Great Britain for 41/2 kr. (20 words), or to America for 36-40 kr. (10 words). To the N. rise the *Stappene (stappi, an old Norsk word, ‘column’), four pointed rocky islands covered with dense flocks of sea-fowl, which afford excellent sport. These rocks are sometimes known as the ‘mother and her daughters’. On the easternmost of the group once stood a church. Like other desolate spots in Fin- marken, which also once possessed churches (Svaerholt, Inge, Om- gang, etc.), the island is now quite deserted. The whole of this neighbourhood abounds in rocky islands, cliffs, and reefs. —— An excursion by boat from Gjesvaer to the North Cape takes 5-6 hrs.; but now that nearly all the steamers extend their course thither, few travellers will feel called upon to undergo this fatigue. Beyond Gjesvaar theTuefiord opens to the right, extending Bxnnnxan’s Norway and Sweden. 2nd Edit. 17 258 Route 30. NORTH CAPE. From Hammerfest far into the interior of the Magero. The steamer then rounds the long and low Knivskjcar-Odden or Knivskjcel— Odden, projecting still farther than the Cape itself. The majestic North Cape now comes in sight. Between the Odde and the Cape lies a deep bay. We obtain a good survey of the monotonous form of the plateau of the Magero, rising at places abruptly from the water. The dark-grey slate—rocks are furrowed with deep clefts. At the extremity of the Cape rises the Horn, an almost isolated minaret of rock. The Cape itself, seen from the water, does not rise nearly so precipitously as (owing to a well—known optical delusion) it apparently does when the traveller looks down from the summit. The traveller may land and ascend the Cape on the W. side, but it is prefer- able to steer round it and land in the Ho'r'nvik on the E. side. The ascent, over stones and along the bed of a small brook, takes about 3/4 hr. (the last third steep and rough). The **North Cape (710 10’ N. lat.), named Kneskanas by the early geographer Schdning, is usually considered the northernmost point of Europe, though the Nordkyn (see p. ‘261) has a better claim to the title. The View from the promontory (the height of which is estimated by the best authorities at about 970 Engl. ft.) embraces the dreary heights of the Magero to the W. and beyond them the Hjelme and Rolfso; to the N.W. the eastern, promontory of the M‘agero and the Svaerholtklub andNordkyn in the distance; to the N. stretches the unbounded horizon of the Arctic Ocean. A granite Column, erected at the top in commemoration of the visit of Oscar II. (2nd July, 1873), was overthrown by a storm in the beginning of 1882. ‘The northern sun, creeping at midnight at the distance of five dia- meters along the horizon, and the immeasurable ocean in apparent con- tact with the skies, form the grand outlines in the sublime picture pre- sented to the astonished spectator. The incessant cares and pursuits of anxious mortals are recollected as a dream, the various forms and ener- gies of animated nature are forgotten; the earth is contemplated only in its elements, and as constituting a part of the solar system". Acct-bi, ‘Travels to the North Cape‘. London, 1.802. ‘And then uprose before me, Upon the water‘s edge, The huge and haggard shape Of that unknown North Cape, Whose form is like a wedge”. - Longfellow. From the N. and E. shores of the Magero project numerous promontories, enclosing bays of greater or less size. In one of these lies Skarsvaag (a settlement of four Norwegian and one Fin- nish family), beyond which are K jelvik and Honningsvaag (p. 259). In' the easternmost promontory again are two smaller basins, within one of which lies the small lake of Opnan, which it has been pro- posed to connect with the sea, so as to form a harbour of refuge. When the Hamburg steamer proceeds from Gjesvasr round the S. side of the Magero, through the Maassund, and past the small to Vadse. PORSANGERFJORD. 30. Route. 259 island of Altesula, it makes a short halt at (94 Honningsvaag, where there are several Lapp ‘Gammer’ of a semi—civilised char- acter, and furnished with iron chimneys. (Telegraph-station.) 95 M. Kjelvik (Kjedelvik, ‘kettle’ or ‘cauldron creek’), with its church, pastor, and local merchant, is situated, as its name imports, in a basin of peculiar form. It possesses an excellent harbour formed by an island. The slate-strata run from N. to S., and their exposed margins have been much battered by the waves. A number of Russian vessels are generally to be seen here. The church contains a bell which was carried off by Russian maraudr ers in 1679, thrown into the harbour by them when pursued, and recovered in 1865'). To the E. of the station rises a *Hill, 1065 ft. in height, commanding an admirable survey of the Magere. Fnon KJELVIK TO THE NORTH CAPE. To those who undertake this ex- cursion from Kjelvik one of the following alternatives is recommended: -— In calm weather row with at least five men (Rorskarle) round the E. side of the island to the Hornvik (p. 258) and land there. If the weather is unfavourable for returning by water, walk back across the dreary island-plateau (20 Engl. M.), spending the night, if necessary, at Skars- 'vaag (p. 258). (As the wind is very changeable here, a detention of a day or more may easily be occasioned by stress of weather, in which case boats are said to be vindfasl or ‘weather-bound’.) In windy weather walk to Honna'ngsvaag (or leave the steamboat there), and hire a light boat which the rowers carry across the low Eid to the Skibsfjord; cross the latter by boat to the long promontory on the oppo- site side, and walk thence to Skarsvaag, whence another boat will convey us to the Hornvik. Return by the same route. The rough water off the numerous promontories on the E. coast of the island is thus avoided. The traveller who lands at Kjelvik in the evening may devote the following day to a visit to the North Cape, the second day to the Kjglle- fjord and possibly the Nordkyn also, and rejoin the steamer at Kjsrlle— fjord on the fourth day on her way back from Vadsa. This is a far pre- ferable arrangement to remaining ‘on board the steamer all the way to Vadsa and back. From Kjelvik to Svaerholt about 31/2, thence to the Kjolletjord 4 sea-miles. For the latter passage a different boat should be engaged. The boatmen are civil, and overcharging is as yet unknown. Kjelvik lies at the mouth of the immense Porsanger-Fjord, which is about 20 sea-miles in length and averages 3 M. in breadth. Numerous streams fall into it at its head. The banks are barren, unpicturesque, and almost entirely uninhabited, but present a beautiful appearance when richly coloured by the mid- night sun. In July and August the Sci (‘saithe’, Gadus 'vi'rens), a fish of the cod species, is largely caught here in nets, each of which is managed by 6-8 boats. The proximity of a shoal is indi- cated by the black and ruffled look of the water and the attendant flock of thousands of sea-gulls. The Sei enters the fjord in pursuit of the Lodde (Osmerus arctic'us, a kind of smelt), which resorts to the shore to spawn. At this season (known as the Makketz'd or Parringstid, the ‘mating time’ of the sea-fowl) numerous Russian vessels are seen in the harbours in this region, where they purchase fish, salt it on board, and convey it to Archangel. —— The steam- boat passes the Porsangsnas on the right, a promontory glittering with white quartz, and steers to the to — 17* 260 Route 30. SVJERHOLTKLUBBEN. From Hammerfest 96 M. Repvaag, near the Tamsa, a flat island with extensive moors where Multebazr (‘cloud-berry’, Rubus chamaemorus) grow in abundance, and tracts (Dunocere) where the ‘down’ of wild-fowl is largely collected. A considerable sum obtained from these sources is paid annually to the ‘Stiftsamtmand’ of Finmarken. -— In the Porsangerfjord, about 9 M. farther S., is Kistrand, the next station, with a church, a clergyman, and a doctor, and on the S. side a small birch-wood which is locally regarded as a little paradise. From Kistrand a footpath leads across the Vuom'e-Njarg to the W. to the Reppeflord (a day’s walk), whence Hammerfest or Alten may be reached via the trading (and local steamboat) station of Kvalsund. ~—— Or we may row from Kistrand to (7 sea-miles) Laxelvens Kapel, at the head of the Porsanger-Fjord, and walk or ride thence by the Vuorie Duodder to Ka'rasjok (see p. 268). After this long deviation from its direct course the steamer returns to the N. to the mouth of the Porsanger-Fjord and steers round *Svaarholtklubben, an almost perpendicular promontory of clay-slate, 1000 ft. in height, famous as a resort of thousands of sea—fowl (chiefly gulls, Lar-us tridactylus). When scared by a cannon-shot fired from the steamer, about one-third of the birds take to wing in dense clouds, and after an interval of a few seconds of perfect silence utter their peculiar cries, the effect of which collectively somewhat resembles the sound produced by the escape of steam from aboiler. The gulls which remain sitting on the ledges of the black rock contrast picturesquely with it, looking not unlike long rows of pearls. The proprietor of the pro- montory, the Landhandler Kmbel, lives in a small bay on the E. side of it, called — 98 M. Scoerholt, where the steamer touches in fine weather only, and of which he and his family are the sole inhabitants. The Landhandler‘s house affords tolerable quarters, and the hospi- table proprietor‘s account of his mode of life is not uninteresting. Among his sources of income, as he informed the writer, is the drift-wood (Rwkved, from rouge, ‘to drift‘) which finds its way to this coast in con- siderable quantities; and he showed two enormous trunks of mahogany, which he afterwards sold to a merchant of Throndhjem. He described the shoals of cod as sometimes so dense that it was impossible to sink his hand—line with a lead ofa pound in weight through them, while the fish were so ravenous that they always took the bait instantaneously, 80 that he had no difficulty in catching 500 in one day. One night he was awoke by the noise made in front of his house by a party of thirty whales, gambolling in uncouth fashion and spouting water. In February, 1872, his house was burned down and one of his children perished in the flames, while he and the rest of his family escaped with nothing but their night-dresses. They took refuge in the shop, a small detached building, which fortunately contained a stove, and there they spent eleven days, at the end of which human beings at length came to their relief. The children all fell ill, except the youngest, only a month old, for which an additional garment had luckily been found. The ‘bird mountain’ yields him a considerable revenue, the eggs being sold for human consumption, and the gulls themselves being used as fodder for the cattle. The commandant at Vardehus afterwards told the writer that no fewer than 150 large casks of gulls were annually used there as fodder, and that they were prepared for the purpose by being buried‘ in the earth for a time. to Vadse. NORDKYN. 30. Route. 261 On the W. side of Svaerholtklubben, near the sea-level, is the Russerhule, a cavern in which a shipwrecked Russian crew is said to have once spent a considerable time. — About 11/2-2 M. to the N. of Svaerholt is Slepen, probably part of the so-called Hasbro, a bank where the Sci fishery is extensively carried on. Beyond the Klubbe, the N. extremity of the long peninsula of Spirta-Njarga. (the latter word being synonymous with Nazs, ‘pro- montory’), which separates the Porsanger-Fjord from the Laxe- fjord, the steamer steers to the S.E. across the latter to —— 104 M. Lebesby, on the E. bank, a prettily situated place, with a church and a Landhandler. It next steers to the N. and passes the mouth of the Eidsfjord, at the head of which lies the low and narrow Hopseid, separating it from the Hopsfjord, a branch of the Tanafjord (p. 262; a canal through the Hopseid is projected). The valleys descending to the Laxefjord, like those in the Porsanger and Tana Fjords, are all very short, with level floors, generally several hundred feet above the water. We ob- serve numerous old coast—levels, some of them 200 ft. high, and usually two of them together, one above the other. The Fjcerc (oestuarium), or shore between high and low-water mark, is also an object of interest. The Drottvikmrring, the promontory between the Laxefjord and the Kjellefjord, is a majestic mass of slate—rock, divided into perpendicular sections, and furrowed by deep gullies, at the head of which there are large deposits of snow. At the ex- tremity of the promontory rises the *Store Finkirkc, a huge and picturesque rock, and in the Kjellefjord, a little beyond it, is the Lille Finkirke, resembling a ruin. The vertical strata of sandstone here are not unlike a basaltic formation. At the head of the fjord we reach —— 101 M. Kjellefjord, an ‘Annexkirke’ of Lebesby, with several houses and ‘Gammer’ (see p. 249). The shore is covered with boul- ders, and the pilots state that the bottom of the fjord is completely paved with them. An ancient coast-level is distinctly traceable on the right. Leaving the Kjellefjord the vessel steers round the Redeva'g (‘red wall’) to the station (102 Skjetningberg, and along the bold rocky bank of the Corgas-Njarga (pron. Chorgash), a large peninsula connected with the mainland by the narrow isthmus of Hopseid, already mentioned. The N. extremity of the peninsula is the a“Nordkyn (or Kinnerodden), in 71° 6' N. lat., or 5' (nearly 6 Engl. to the S. of the N. Cape, but really the northernmost point of the mainland of Europe, and almost surpassing the N. Cape in grandeur. Two bold mountains on the W. side guard the entrance to a basin, bounded by a perpendicular cliff with a horizontal top, in which lies Sand'vazr, a solitary flsherman’s but. The masses of quartzose rock , broken into enormous slabs , have a very imposing effect. The snow extends at places down to the water’s edge. Part 262 Route 30. TANAFJORD. From Hammerfest of the Nordkyn has become detached from it, leaving a passage through which boats can pass. Fishing-boats sometimes obtain refuge here, but in certain states of the wind the Aflesning (‘de- tached portion’) affords no shelter. In 1875 about 100 boats with 200-300 men were lost on this coast in one day. Immediately to the E. of the Nordkyn is a deep Gully (‘Kile’) in the rocks, into which large blocks of stone have fallen, leaving openings below them (described by Keilhau, ‘Reise’,v pp. 79, 80). Beyond the N ordkyn on the right are the promontories of Smar— bringa- and the flat Sletnazs, with a curious rock-formation called ‘Biskopen’. The next stations are (103 M.) Sandfjord, (104 Mehavn, and (106 Gamvig. Passing Omgang the steamer now enters the large Tanafjord, about 101/2 sea-miles in length, and skirts the E. bank, with its variegated quartzose rock—formation. To the W. lies the narrow Hopseid, which separates the Tanafjord from the Laxefjord (p. 261). The mountains on the E. side of the fjord in- crease in height, culminating in the Stangencpsfiy'eld (‘2360 ft.). To the W., farther on, is Digermule'n, a peninsula separating the Tanafjord from its branch the Langfjo'rd, and to the S. rises the Algas- Varrc (‘holy mountain’), above Guldholmen. A few isolated ‘Gamme'r’ of the Finnish families settled here are the only human habitations to be seen. Passing Molvik, the steamer stops at Stcmgenws (Lapp, Vagge, ‘valley’), where there is a manure-manu- factory. Bushes, trees, and even a few patches of potatoes are seen here. From this point we survey the Vcstre and Hstrc- Tana- fio'rd, the upper branches of the fjord, and the Leebotten, a bay to the S.E. When a high S. wind prevails, gusts of wind usually descend from all the branches of the fjord, causing strong local currents. —- About 13/4 M. to the S. of Stangenaes is the Church of Tana, opposite which is Guldholmen (good quarters at Schanke’s), at the mouth of the Tana, where the water is shallow, so that the steamer cannot proceed beyond Stangenaas. The steamer now retraces its course through the Tanafjord, skirts the Tanahom (860 ft.), at the N. end of the peninsula of Rago Njarga, and steers to the E. to (112 Berle'vaag. The scenery becomes more and more dreary, and the shore with large expanses of snow is now lower (400-500 ft.), its desolateness being frequently concealed by fog. The succession of promontories, all of uniform character, with intervening bays, has not inaptly been compared to the scenes on the stage of a theatre. Berlevaag lies in a bay on the N. coast of the Rago-Njarga, which is bounded on the E. by the Kongsfjord, in which lie the Kongseer, pleasant- looking grassy islands haunted by thousands of sea-fowl. To the S.E. of this fjord lies the peninsula Vargag-Njarga. 121 M. Sylte- fiord- (Lapp Orddo- Vuodna) possesses an interesting Fugleberg (‘bird-hill’), frequented by thousands of sea-gulls and auks. A to Vadse. vARDe. 30. Route. 263 little farther on is Haoningberg, with tasteful houses and a lofty wooden pier, and boasting of a garden containing grass. To the left, at a height of ‘20-40 ft., lies the former coast-line, above which run the telegraph—wires to Varde and Vadse. To the W. is the projecting headland of Harbaken. Near Havningberg is the cavern of O-vnen, nearly 100 ft. in depth. —— In two days after leaving Hammerfest the Hamburg steamer reaches ~— 124 M. Varde (Figenschou’s Hotel), in 70° 22' N. 1st., which has enjoyed municipal privileges since 1787, with 1350 inhab- itants. It is prettily situated on the island of the same name, which is separated from the mainland by the Bussesund. The town has two harbours, the larger and deeper being on the N. side, pro- tected by a large new breakwater, and the other on the S. side. To the W. of the town is the fortress of Vardehus, founded about 1310, and now of no importance (garrison of 16 men only). To this fortress, however, Norway is indebted for her acquisition of Finmarken. In- scriptions here commemorate the visits of Christian IV., king of Denmark and Norway, in 1599, and Oscar 11., king of Sweden and Norway, in 1873. To the E. of the town, which now consists of neat, well-built houses, covered with turf, while in 1600 it was merely a group of ‘miserrima piscatorum tuguria’, rises the handsome new timber-built Church, containing a brazen font. In the vicinity are numerous Hjelder for drying fish. Fresh Wheaten bread may be procured at the baker’s here, the flour being im- ported from Archangel by the small and uncomfortable Russian steamer which runs thence once a month to Varde and Vadse alternately. Travellers who contemplate a voyage by this vessel may apply for information to ‘Vardehusets Kommandant’, who will kindly answer enquiries. -— If time permit, the traveller should ascend the (20 min.) *Vardefjeld, a rocky hill 100 ft. in height, immediately behind the church, which commands a view of the town and island, the Dom (650 ft.) rising to the S. E., the unbounded sea towards the E., and the district of Syd- Varange'r to the S., with part of the adjoining Russian territory. Over the rugged and rocky banks, in which'are numerous inky-black pools, gyrate thousands of chattering sea-fowl. Trending to the S. on our way back to the town, we observe numerous rounded boulders at a spot about 30 ft. above the present sea-level, marking a former coast-line. The astronomer Pater Hell of Vienna observed the transit of Venus across the sun from the isthmus between the two harbours in 1768-69. He caused two stone columns to be erected on the bank of the Nordrevaag, the N. harbour, with a view to measure the gradual retrocession of the sea, but they have unfortunately disappeared. The church-register still contains a memorandum written by him on 22nd June 1769.. -— The cli- mate here, though considerably colder than that of Hammerfest, is mild compared with that of the interior of the country, the mean temperature being 32° Fahn, the July temperature 47°, and'that of January 14°. Beyond Varde the steamer passes the islands of Rene and 264 Route 30. VADSQ. Home, with their Eider- Var and Dun- Veer (tracts where eider- down and feathers are gathered), where numerous ermines are also found. It then steers to the S., and afterwards nearly due W. The shore continues exceedingly barren, being enli- vened only by the solitary fishing-stations of Kz'berg, Skalntrs, Lille and Store Eltkere, in the sandstone rocks of which last, on the E. side, numerous sea-fowl make their nests. In the interior rise the mountains called Ruyttotjock and Beljek. The steamer passes the S. side of the Vadse (‘water-island’), on which the town of that name formerly lay, and finally casts anchor in the harbour between the island and the town, which now lies on the mainland (Vargak or Varjag-Njarg). Vadsa (Lapp Cacce-Suollo, pron. chahtze; Finnish Vesi— Saari; Russian Vasino; all signifying ‘Water-island’; Hotels Pihlfelt and Aas), a town with 1700 inhab., including 900 Finns (Keener), lies in 70° 4' N. latitude, and has a climate similar to that of Verde (see above). The Finns live at Ytre Vadse, the E. suburb, where one of them (Poikz'la or Vinika, for example, who speaks Norwegian) will on application prepare a vapour-bath for travellers who desire to try the genuine ‘Russian bath’. There are no Lapp ‘Gammer’ here, but the dwellings of the Finns, who have immigrated from the principality of Finland, present several peculiarities which are worthy of notice. In every direction are seen Hjelder for drying fish, the smell of which pervades the whole place. On the W. side of the town is a Manure Factory. Potatoes thrive here, and a few stunted mountain-ashes and plum- trees succeed in braving the long winters. Some of the gardens contain forget-me-not, campion (Lychnis), and other flowers which in more southern countries bloom in spring. The Church is a tasteful building on a hill to the N. of the town. The sacristy contains a votive picture dated 1661, repre- senting a married couple with two sons and two daughters, before whom lie four dead children. Under the Tower, the ascent of which is recommended, is a curious ofl’ertory-box. —— The town contains several large Shops, where interesting specimens of Russian workmanship (Nteverskrulclcer, ‘bark-pouches’, etc.) among other articles are sold. — The chief sight of Vadse is the *Estab— lishment of S'vend Foyn, a whale-fisher from Tcnsberg (p. 68), whose method of killing his prey (100 yearly) is by shooting harpoons and other projectiles at them from a cannon on board his steamer. The extensive buildings, which comprise a train-oil boiling- house, a manure-factory, etc., lie on the island .to the S. of the town. Strangers are not always admitted, and they are rarely if ever allowed to take part in a whaling cruise. (See a spirited de- scription by Friis, ‘Kong Oscars Reise’, pp. 95, et seq.) —— Vadso also contains the establishment of a whaling company. NYBORG. 30. Route. 265 FnoM Vxnse r0 Nrnone. Distance, 5 sea-miles. If the traveller proposes to return by this route to the Tana-fjord (a pleasant change), and at Stange- naes (p. 262) join the steamer which brought him to Vadse, he must make arrangements with the captain and start by the local steamer almost immediately on leaving the Hamburg boat. The local steamer steers to the W. through the Varangerfjord and passes the Lille Vadse, Padrleb'y (where the first birches are seen), Finsnrrs, where the Nordre Jacobselv falls into the fjord, and the Klubnaas, a promontory forming the extreme spur of the Klubbefjcld. The vegetation is much richer here than at Vadse, and improves the farther we ascend the fjord. On the W. side of the Klubnaes, which was an ancient sacrificial station of the Lapps, lies -— Mortensnces (good quarters at Nord'vi’s, the Landhandler). The Lapps have a number of their curious ‘Gammer’, or subter- ranean dwellings here, and in the neighbourhood are several of their old burial-places, situated among heaps of stones (Sten- Ur). The other objects of interest are a Bautastcin (Zceodse Grudge) and some ancient stone rings. —— The Storfjeld, which may be ascended hence, commands a fine view. Passing the church of Nrrsseby, the steamer enters the Maske- flord, the last bay on the N. side of the main fjord. To the N. rises the Mazskehoug, a hill once regarded as sacred (Mrrske-va'rre; passe-aldo). Nyborg (good quarters at Pleym’s, the Landhandler). The women here wear a curious adornment on the back of their heads, similar to that used by the Icelandic women, consisting of a piece of wood (Finnish, fierra) somewhat resembling a helmet, covered with velvet or other stuff, and trimmed with coloured ribbons. From this point travellers sometimes ascend the Madevarre (1470 ft.), 91/2 Engl. M. to the N., where the forest extends to a height of 700 ft. above the sea-level. The summit affords a good survey of the interior of the extensive peninsula. —- An excursion may also be made to the S. by boat round the Angsnces to the Karlebotn, and thence on foot to the Golmes-Oaaive (‘three heads’, about 1300 ft. high). FnoM NYBORG To run TANAFJORD (50 Kil.). Horses and boats are not easily procured for a party of more than four persons.‘ We start early and ride across the Seidafjeld (over which extends a Rengjrrrd'e, or wall to prevent the reindeer from straying) to Suoppanjarg (‘lasso-promontory’), or to the more conveniently situated (16 Kil.) —- Seida, both of which lie on the Tana. Keilhau compares the latter to a ‘large group of saeters’. We now take a boat, manned with a rower and steersman, and with seats for two passengers only, and descend the Tana, the second-largest river :in'Norway, in the waters of which particles of gold occur. (In ascending the 266 Route 30. BUGQN/ES. From Vadse river the boatmen propel their craft by the process of staken, i. e. punting or poling.) The boat careers down the rapids ('Stryk) at an exciting pace. The boatmen are generally able to speak Lappish only. At Guldholmen (‘gold island’; 30 Kil. from Seida), a small is- land at the mouth of the Tana, opposite the church of Tana, we shall probably arrive in time to row to (6 Kil.) Stangenazs, and there meet the Hamburg steamer. —- If we miss the steamer, it is said to be possible to row to (5 sea-miles) Hopseidet (p. 262), a boat being provided by Landhandler Schanke at Marienlund, walk across the Eid, and row to Kjellefiord or to Soazrholt (pp. ‘261, 260), and there catch the steamer. If the steamer is missed at Svaerholt, it is still possible to overtake it at Kjel'uz'k, 3 sea-miles farther W., as the steamer’s usual course between these places is via Kistrand on the Porsanger Fjord (p. 259), a route ‘21 sea-miles in length. The expense of such a long journey by rowing-boat is, of course, very large. FROM Vanse TO THE SYD—VARANGER. If the traveller does not return to Hammerfest by the same steamer he must wait a week for the next. In this case he should pay a visit to the E. part of Syd-Varanger, a district much extolled by the Norwegians. On this expedition, for which Frit's’s Lapland will be found a useful companion, the traveller will have frequent opportunities of making acquaintance with the Lapps and the industrious Finns (Kvoener). — The best guide to the inner Varanger-Fjord and the region to the S., as far as Golmes Oaaz've (in the parish of Ncesseby) is Keilhau‘s Reise t'fi'sljin- marken. The country is wooded and mountainous, and almost entirely uninhabited. The explorer should be provided with a. veil (Star) in the form of a bag, covering the whole head and fastened round the neck, and if possible with a mosquito-tent (Raggas) also, as gnats (Culex pipiens) occur in such swarms as sometimes to darken the sun. ' The district lying to the S. of the Varanger Fjord long formed a subject of dispute between Norway and Russia, but the frontier was at length defined by the convention of May, 1826, and finally confirmed by the protocol of August, 1834. —— This region abounds in timber (whence it is usually known as Raftelandet, ‘Raft’ signifying planks or rafters), in fish, and in birds. The local steamer conveys us from Vadse to (2 M.) Bugenms (good quarters at the Landhandler’s), from which the Bugofijord runs a long way inland. To the W. rises the Bugenoesfield (1750 ft.), and to the E. the Brasfjeld (1335 ft.). Farther to the E. we pass the large and barren Skogere, bounded by the Kjofiord on the W., and the Begfjord on the E. side. On the Kjefjord, the banks of which are almost uninhabited, is a ‘Fugleberg’; the upper part of the fjord is called the Neidenfiord, into which fall the Neidenelv and Munkelo. Several colonies of Finns are settled here; their dwellings are clean, but the accommodation is very poor. The steamer steers through the Korsfiord into the Begfjovd, at‘ the mouth of which lies —--~ ' _ w Syd—Varanger. ELVENZES. 30. Route. 267 Kirkenaas , on the promontory between the Bugefjord and the Klosterfjo-rd, with the church and parsonage of Sydvaranger (rooms at Figenschou’s, the Landhandler). Farther up the fjord (5 Kil.) lies Elvenaes (rooms at K lerk’s, the Lendsmand) and about 4-5 Kil. beyond it the chapel of Boris- Gleb, named after two Russian saints, and situated in a Russian ‘enclave’ of 4/9 Engl. sq. M. in area. The old church is adjoined by a new one built of stone. At Boris—Gleb reside the so-called Skolte-‘Lapps (‘scalp Lapps"), who derived their name from the fact that they were formerly bald from the effects of disease. (Friis’s Lapland, pp. 149, et seq.; Keilhau, pp. 48, et seq.) At Elvenaes the large PasviIc-El-v or Kloster-Elv falls into the fjord. It derives its latter name from Kloster Peisen, a mon- astery once situated here. The river consists of a series of twelve lakes, connected by about twenty-nine waterfalls, and for a dis- tance of 60 Engl. M. forms the frontier between Norway and Russia. lts source is the Enare- Trazsk, a large lake , about 2940 Engl. sq. M. in area. A visit may be paid from Boris—Glob to the Storfos (Gieddegccvdnje) and to the (6-7 Kil.) Harefos (Njoammel Guoilca, ‘hare—fall’), situated near the Valegas-Ja'v're, a lake swarming with trout; also to the (40 Kil.) *Ma'nniko-Koski (‘pine-water- fall’), the route to which traverses the fine forest—scenery of the Sydvaranger. A good road leads from Elvenaes to the (9 Kil.) head of the Jarfjord, on which we may row to Pas-vile (from the Lapp basse, ‘sacred’), a fishing hamlet with a good harbour. A little farther E. (8 Engl. M. from Pasvik, and 55 M. to the S.E. of Vadse) is Jacobselvs-Kapel, the last steamboat-station , and the last place in Norway. Since the visit of Oscar II. in 1873, which is commemorated by a marble slab, the place has been named ‘Oscar den Andens Kapel’. It lies on the Jacobsel'v (Lapp Vuorjem), which here forms the boundary between Norway and Russia. The smelt-fishery carried on here is very important. The fish (Lodde, see p. 259) is used as bait for the cod and other fisheries. The following Lapp words are of frequent recurrence: duoddar, mountain; varre, hill, varre-oaat've, hill-top, tjokk, point; njarg, pro- montory, peninsula; suolo, island; gedge, stone; siez'di (siez'di-gergt'), a stone or rock occupied by a sat'wo (see p. 254), gacce (pron. chatze), water; vuodna, fjord; tshoalmz', strait; javre, lake; gaiva, spring; joklm', river; guoika, waterfall; njalmt', estuary; joekna, glacier; olmt'c's (.9 like 8h), person, human being; goatte, house; maa, land; buocco (buotzo), reindeer, suoppan, lasso; guo'sse, cow; guo'sse-voja, cow’s-fat, butter, gu- oue, fish; guvtjz'n, trout; muorra, tree; baetse, dazdno, fir, pine; kumse, cradle; pulk, lcjwrrs's, sledge, beska, fur-coat, gabmagak, shoes, skallco- mager, fur-boots; bellt'nger, leathern gaiters; nibe, knife; doppa, edge; bamagulam, a mile (literally ‘as far as a dog’s bark is heard‘). The Lapp greeting on entering a house is ‘rafte m'ssui’ (peace to your house)‘ The answer, ‘ibmel addt" (God grant it)! ‘Burz'st’, or ‘buorre brews’ (good day)! Answer, ‘ibmel adds‘ 1’. 268 31. Inland Routes from the Altenfjord a. From the Altenfjord to Karasjok. 200 Kil. (125 Engl. M.). The journey on horseback in summer takes 3-4 days, but can be accomplished more quickly in winter by sledge (kjaerrz's, pulk). Three Fjeldsluer, those of Jotkajavre (or Romsdalssluen, Mollesjok, and Raudejavre (Sarm'ssluen), afford shelter for the night. Beyond Jotkajavre the greater part of the journey may be performed by boat on a series of lakes and rivers. The guide (vappus, ‘pilot’) must understand Laplandish. In summer most of the Lapps migrate to the coast, but in March and April they may be seen here to advantage. The days are already long, but profound winter still reigns. The journey is then performed in a kjeerm's (sledge) or a pulk, drawn by a reindeer; the pulk somewhat resembles a canoe, being covered in front. The motion is very rapid, and the swaying of the pulk is usually steadied by attach- ing another reindeer behind, called a Steppe-Ben (driving ‘6 Slaglerm’), besides which a Vare-Ren, or reserve-reindeer, accompanies each pulk. Lapp costume (peak or beska, a fur-coat; skalkomage'r, fur-boots; bellz'nger, leathern gaiters) is desirable for this expedition in winter, besides which a. pose, or sheep~skin sack for sleeping in, is also useful. The Lapps always use their furs with the hairy side outwards. Bossekop, on the Altenfjord, see p. 253. Beyond Gaa'rden‘Alten the route crosses the Altenel'v, and leads inland, towards the S.E. ()n the way we pass a number of sieidi, or sacred stones (sieidi- ge'rgi, ‘oracle stones’); several of these are to be seen at the top of the Kongshavnfield, projecting into the Altenfjord. We also pass several ‘sacred mountains’ (Passe Varelc , Ailegas), which were formerly worshipped by the Lapps. The ancient belief was that they contained a saiwo, or paradise, inhabited by Lapps and reindeer. The first night is generally spent in the ‘Fjeldstue’ at the small lake of Jotkajavre, also called the Romdalsstue (about 45 Kil. from Bossekop). Beyond this lake we observe to the N.E. the Vuorie— Tjoltlc, a barren conical mountain, and, farther on, the Vuolla- Njunnes to the E., both of which were once famous places of sacri- fice. The country is for the most part well wooded, and the valleys are often very picturesque. We descend the valley of the rapid, but navigable Jes-jok, or Es-jok, into which a route from Kauto- keino (p. 309) also descends. The second Fjeldstue, the Molles- jokstue, is about 40 Kil. (25 Engl. M beyond Jotkajavre. We then cross the fjeld to (30-35 Kil.) the third station, on the Zarijok- javre, and (15 Kil.) the Karasjoklca (rapid river), on the left bank of which we now descend to (15 Kil.) Karasjok. Karasjok has a church, a Lensmand, and a Landhandler, and is admirably adapted for affording an insight into the mode of life among the Lapps. — About 15 Kil. farther to the E. the Karasjokka unites with the Anarjok, the right bank of which is Russian terri- tory. The combined rivers form the Tana-Elv, by which we may descend by boat to Seida (p. 265) in 3-4 days. Travellers on their way to Nyborg leave the river at Suoppanjarg, 11 Kil. above Seida (see p. 265). The water of the Tana is auriferous, but the yield is too small to repay the cost of extracting the gold. KAUTOKEINO. 31. Route. 269 b. From Alten to Haparanda in Sweden. 750 Kil. (465 Engl. M.). This journey occupies 11-13 days. From Alten to (180 Kil.) Kautoket'no 4 days, thence to (205 Kil.) Muom'cvara 3*4 days, and from Muoniovara to (365 Kil.) Hdpardnda 4-5 days. Before the days of steamboats and railways this long, fatiguing, and costly route to Sweden, which presents no great interest except on the Norwegian side, was more frequently undertaken than now. The steam- boat and railway route from Alten to Stockholm via Throndhjem and Christiania is about twice as expeditious and half as expensive. Con- siderable interest, however, attaches to this overland route, and several points on it have attained celebrity in the scientific world, from its having been trodden by L. 1). Buck, Acerbi, Martins, Bravais, Oscar Schmidt, and other scholars and naturalists. To this day it possesses attractions for the scientific traveller and the sportsman, but can hardly be recommended to the ordinary tourist. In the reverse direction the journey is still more tedious and laborious in summer, as the rapids of the Muonio and Torneii-Elf have to be as- cended; but in winter these rivers, and even the Muonio-koski at Muonio- vara, are frozen over and practicable for sledges. A better route in summer for travellers from Haparzinda to the North Cape is via Lulec‘i and Qvz'ckjock, and thence over the mountains (a rough walk or ride of two days) to the Saltenfjord and Body (comp. R. 50). A still easier route is by steamer from Haparanda to Sundsvall, thence over land to Thrond- hjem and from Throndhjem to the North Cape by steamboat. (Comp. RR. 5.9, 50.) The best time for the journey is between the middle of August and the middle of September. Earlier in the season the myriads of mos- quitoes are insufferable, and at a later period the days draw in and snow begins to fall. The traveller’s passport must be vtsé by a Russian am- bassador or consul (a consul at Hammerfest). FROM ALTEN 'ro KAUTOKEINO (180 Kil. or 112 Engl. The shorter and preferable route crosses the mountains to the W. of the Altenelv (the longer, about 136 Engl. M., follows the course of that river). A guide and horses should be engaged for the whole journey to Karesuando in Sweden. (Johan Strand at Bossekop is recommended as a ‘Vappus’ or guide; his charge is 60 kr., and as much more for each of the two horses which each traveller requires.) Four Fjeldstuer afford shelter for the nights, but provisions must be taken for the journey. Heavy luggage should be sent round to Stockholm, or if necessary to Haparanda, by steamboat and railway; if taken across country, a third horse will be required to carry it. — The highest part of the vast mountain-tract which the route traverses is the Nuppivarrc (2600 ft. ; varre'being the Lapp, vara the Finnish word for mountain). The stations are: (28 Kil.) Gargz'a, (40 Kil.) Solovom or Suolovuobme, (50 Kil.) Pingisjazrvi, and (60 Kil.) Kautokeino. From Solovom geologists should pay a visit to the deposits of coal on the neighbouring Akso-Javre. (See 0. A. Wulfsberg, ‘Om Finmarken’; Kristiania, 1867.) The longer route, following the Altenelv (Alatajokki) , crosses the Beskadosfjeld to the Ladnijau-re and Mast, in order to avoid the Sautzofosse, the waterfalls formed by the lower part of the river; a boat is then taken on the now sluggish Altenelv to -— Kautokeino (about 900 ft.; good quarters at the Landhand- ler’s, or at Vorum’s, the Lensmand, who is obliging, and will afford 270 Route 31. KARESUANDO. From Allen useful information), a settlement of Lapps and a few Finns, most of whom are absent in summer, and possessing a church and parsonage. The sides of the village-well are partially coated with ice, even in summer. A few birches thrive here, but no pines are to be seen. (L. o. Buch, vol. ii.; Ch. Martln’s, ‘Von Spitzbergen zur Sahara’, vol. i., pp. 201 et seq.) FROM KAUTOKEINO 'ro KARESUANDO (105 Kil. or 65 Engl. M.), a journey of two days. The traveller may ascend the Altenelv by boat, or ride along its bank, to (22 Kil) Mortas. Thence to -—~ Syoajr'j'rviin Finland (Russia), 55 Kil. more. The frontier, which we cross 11 Kil. before reaching this place, was declared by the Danish-Swedish treaty of 1751 to be formed by the watershed be- tween the Arctic Ocean and the Gulf of Bothnia. A ride of 28 Kil. more, traversing the watershed, about 1850 ft. in height, and presenting little interest, brings us to ~— Karesuando (Inn), the first village in Sweden. The church was formerly at Enontekis, but when that place was annexed to Finland in 1826 it was transferred to Karesuando. The Muonio- Elf is here nearly 400 ft. wide. Barley is cultivated at Karesuando with tolerable success. Pet'rus Lc'istadius, the author of the Lap- land ‘Journal’ (Stockholm, 1831), was once the clergyman here. FRoM KARnsUANno 'ro Nsnnn MUONIOVARA, 100 Kil. (about 62 Engl. M.), a journey which may be accomplished in one day by boat on the Muonioelf, which forms the boundary between Sweden and Finland. The trip is an interesting one, the passage of the cataracts here being unattended with danger. It is usual to hire a boat and rowers as far as Muonioniska (‘beginning of the Muonio’) on the Finland side, or to Muonz'ovara (good quar- ter’s at Fostrum’s) on the Swedish side ; but a fresh boat may be engaged at each of the following stations: (20 Kil.) Kuttainen, (20 Kil.) Palajokko, (30 Kil.) Ketlcisuando, (20 Kil.) Ofore Muo- niom'ska, and (10 Kil.) Muoniooara. About 12 Kil. below Ket- kisuando are seen the first pines (Abz'es ercelsa). An interesting description of the salmon-spearing in the Muonio by torch-light is given by L. v. Buch in his second volume. Muoniovara is pic- turesquely situated, and boasts of a few corn-fields. FROM MUONIOVARA T0 HAPARANDA (365 Kil. or 226 Engl. M.) the journey is also performed by boat, first on the Muonio, and then on the Iorned-Elf. The rushing of the Muoniokoslci, a tremendous cataract, upwards of 1 Engl. M. long, is already audible here, though nearly 1 Engl. M. distant. The descent is a most exciting trip, unsuited for nervous persons. The foaming river careers wildly through a rocky gully and over sunken rocks, lashing the sides of the boat and half filling it with water. At one point there are two falls, each about 6 ft. in height, and near each other, between which the stream has to be crossed in order to reach another narrow channel where the descent is less sudden. to Hdparénda. AVASAXA. 31. Route. 271 ‘You cannot perform this passage by simply following the stream, but the boat must go with an accelerated quickness, which should be at least double to that of the current. Two boatmen, the most active and robust that can be found, must use their utmost exertions in rowing the whole time, in order that the boat may overcome the force of the stream, while one person is stationed at the helm to regulate its direction as circumstances may require. The rapidity of the descent is such, that you accomplish an English mile in the space of three or four minutes. The man that manages the rudder can with difficulty see the rocks he must keep clear of: he turns the head of the boat directly in the line of the rock he means to pass, and when he is in the very instant of touching it, he suddenly makes a sharp angle and leaves it behind him. The trembling passenger thinks that he shall see the boat dashed in a thou- sand pieces, and the moment after he is astonished at his own existence. Add to all this, that the waves rush into the boat from all sides and drench you to the skin; while, at other times, a billow will dash over the boat from side to side, and scarcely touch you’. —— Ace-rbz'. The first part of the journey, to (280 Kil.) Matarengi, is usually performed by boat; the latter part, from Matarengi to (85 Kil.) Hdpa- rdnda, by road. The boat from Muoniovara to Matarengi, or to Ruskola a little beyond it, is manned by three boatmen and has room for two passengers only. Besides the formidable cataract just mentioned, we descend a succession of other rapids, but the dan- gers of the passage have perhaps been somewhat exaggerated. The cost of the boat as far as Ruskola is about 80 kr., and the trip takes 21/2-3 days. Good quarters are procurable at Kz'hlangi, Kengz's Brulc (iron-works), Pello, and Ruskola. The large Muonio-Elf falls into the Tamed-Elf, which descends from the Tomec'z- Trc‘isk, between the Kexisva'ra station and that of Kengis B'ruk, 31/2 Engl. M. below it. The interesting costumes of the natives at Pello should be observed. The Kittis, a neighbouring mountain, formed one ex- tremity of a degree of longitude measured by Maupertuis in 1.736. Matarengi, 3 Kil. from Ruskola, was formerly called Ofver- Tamed. Near it, on the Finland side, a little to the S. of the Arctic Circle, rises the Avasaxa (695 ft.), a hill which commands a view of the midnight sun for one week. Comp. p. 372. From Matarengi, where we leave the boat, to Hdparc'mda, see p. 372. 32. From Christiania by Railway to Charlottenberg (and Stockholm). 143 Kil. (89 Engl. M.). RAILWAY in 41/2-51/2 hrs. (fares 10 kr. 55, 7 kr. 65, 4 kr. 80 91.). —- The train arriving at Kongsvinger in the evening spends the night there and goes on to Stockholm next morning. The hotels are often overcrowded, in which case travellers sleep in the railway carriages. Comp. p. 305. ' From Christiania to (‘2'1 hi1.) Lillestremmen, see p. 113. The Eidsvold line diverges here to the N., while the Stockholm rail- way runs towards the SE. , traversing a less interesting tract of country. Lillestremmen lies on a narrow arm of Lake Uie'ren, formed by the influx of the Lerelv and other streams. The lake, 272 Route 32. KONGSVINGER. the broader part of which begins 5 Engl. M. to the S.E., at the influx of the Glommen, is 20 Engl. M. in length. (Steamboat once on week—days, with an additional trip on Mondays, from Lille- stremmen to Sandstangen, near the S. end, in 31/4 hrs.) 29 Kil. (18 Engl. Fetsund, where the train crosses the broad Glornmen, just above its influx into Lake Qieren. Vast quantities of timber enter the lake here every spring on their way down to Sarpsborg and Fredrikstad. The train now follows the E. (left) bank of the river, which forms cataracts at places, all the way to Kongsvinger. 42 Kil. Blakjer; 49 Kil. Haga; 58 Kil. Aarncrs. At Note, 3% Engl. M. to the N., the Vormen, descending from Lake Mjesen, falls into the Glomrnen. The next stations are (67 Kil.) Sazterstoen, (79 Kil.) Sitar-noes, and (87 Kil.) Sander. Then —— 100 Kil. (62 Engl. Kongsvinger (*Railway Restaurant, with rooms to let; Mollerud’s Hotel, Jensen’s, both at a consider- able distance from the station), formerly called Leiren(‘the camp’), a small town on the right bank of the Glommen, with 1000 inhab., is reached from the station by a handsome bridge. The now dis- mantled Fortress (Fcestnz'ng; 770 ft.), which once played an im- portant part in the wars between Sweden and Norway, commands a fine view. FROM Konesvmonn 'ro ELVERUM (100 Kil.), a good road, with fast sta- tions, following the E. (left) bank of the Glommen, and leading to the N. to the districts of the Solar and Hsterdal. The route presents little interest, and is now rarely traversed by tourists; but it may be preferred to the long circuit to Elverum via Lillestrommen, Eidsvold, and Hamar by travellers from Sweden on their way to Throndhjem. The accommo- dation is generally poor. The scenery of the valley of the Glommen is of a somewhat sombre character. On both banks, especially farther up the valley, extend vast tracts of forest, in which elks (cervus alces), bears, and all kinds of wild-fowl abound. The Storsje, a basin of the Glommcn above Elverum, has great attractions for the angler. Many of the other lakes near which the road passes also afl‘ord good fishing. Elverum, see p. 206. The railway turns to the S.E. and quits the Glommen. The Vingerse near Kongsvinger and the long lakes near Aabogen and elsewhere are basins of a now deserted channel of the Glommen, the old bed of which is followed by the railway (comp. p. 306). 112 Kil. Aabogen, 122 Kil. Eidsskog, 133 Kil. Magnor, all with extensive timber-yards. The train quits the district of Vinger, in which Kongsvinger lies, a little beyond Magnor, and crosses the Swedish frontier. 143 Kil. (89 Engl. Charlottenberg, the first station in Swe— den, and thence to Stockholm, see R. 41. SWEDEN. 33. From Christiania to Gothenburg by Railway. 356 Kil. (221 Engl. M.). From Christiania to Fredm'kshald, the Nor wegian ‘Smaalensbane‘, in 5 hrs. (fares 6 kr. 12 15., 4 in. 8 a); thence to Gothenburg, the Swedish ‘Bergslagsbana’ in 9 hrs. (fares 16 kr. 515., 8 kr. 95 5.). Carriages changed at Mellerud. From Christiania to Gothenburg one through-train daily in 133/4 hrs. (fares 22 kr. 12 15., 13 kr. 25 5.). The railway journey is on the whole tame and uninteresting, so that were it not for the Trollhdlla Falls (p. 285) the preference should be given to the steamboat. Between Ed and Mellerud-Sunnanz‘i. the train may be quitted for the Dalslands Canal (see p. 276). Travellers who mean to pass the night at Fredrikshald are recommended to visit Moss, Fredre'kslad, and the *Sarpsfos on the way, going on in each case by the next train. Steamers run daily from Moss, Fredrikstad, and Fredrikshald to Gothen- burg. Travellers in the reverse direction are recommended to leave the railway vat Moss and take one of the local steamers thence to Christiania, the approach to which by water is particularly fine. Christiania, see p. 1. The train describes a curve round the suburb of Oslo and skirts the base of the Ekeberg (p. 12), affording a fine retrospect of the town. From (4 Kil.) Barkkelaget we have a good view of the islands in the Ormsund, with their villas. The train then skirts the Bundefjo'rd, passing the country-residences of numerous Christiania merchants. 8 Kil. Lion. The train now as- cends to (18 Kil.) Oppegaard (320 ft.). To the right is Nazsodden, a large peninsula separating the Christiania Fjord from the Bunde- fjord. From (24 Kil.) Ski another railway, called ‘Indra Smaalens- bane’, now in course of construction, will run to Fredrikshald through the interior of the district of Smaalenene. Stations Aas, Ves‘tby, and (48 Kil.) Sonar, near which last are the small timber- trading town of Holcn, on the river of that name, and Soon (p. 37), on the Christiania Fjord, a steamboat-station. The train now de- scends to the fjord and skirts the bank of the picturesque Mossee sund, the strait between Moss and the Gelle. — See Map, p. 12. y 60 Kil. (37 Engl. M.) Moss, see p. 37. The station is on the S. side of the town, near the sea-baths. Steamers ply between Christiania and Moss several times daily, tak- ing 4 hrs. to the trip. A great part of the course of these steamers lies between the Gjella and the mainland. _ The next stations are Dilling, _Rygge, and ‘Raade. Beyond Onsa the train crosses the Kjalbergelv, passesthrougha short tun— nel, and'soons stops at — 94 Kil. (58 M.) Fredrikstad (Olsen’s Hotel; Isachaen’s, in the Forstad on the W. bank of the Glommen), a town-with 8500 inhab., and a place of considerable importance owing to-its situation at the mouth ofthe Glommen, Norway’s largest river (350Eugl. M. long), BAEDEKEB’S Norway and Sweden. 2nd Edit. 18 274 Route 33. SARPSBORG. From Christiania on which the timber of the Bsterdal, the most richly wooded dis- trict in Norway, is floated down to the sea. All the timber was originally exported hence in logs or planks, but much of it is now manufactured on the spot into doors, window-frames, etc. , which are largely exported to Germany, Holland, and France. The river here is broad and deep. It is crossed by a steam-ferry, and a small steamer also runs several times daily to Sarpsborg in 3/4-1 hour. The busiest part of the town is the so-called Forstad, on the W. bank of the river, which contains the railway-station, a large new church, a theatre, and the ‘Forlystelsehus Valhalla’, a popular place of amusement. The old town on the left bank was founded by King Frederick 11. in 1570, and was once strongly fortified. On the Torsekt'le (Kile, ‘bay”), 8 Kil. to the W. of Fredrikstad, lies Hundebunden, a pleasant sea-bathing place, also called the Torsektle Baths. Farther on is the Hanlca Kystsanatom'um (‘pens.’ 120 kr. per month), which has daily steamboat communication with Fredrikstad. Beyond Fredrikstad the train passes on the left some curiously worn rocks and a few isolated houses. It then crosses the outflow of a small lake and describes a wide curve towards the W. The banks of the Glommen here are covered with logs, and the river itself with rafts. Substantial farms are seen on every side. 103 Kil. Greaker. The train now quits the Glommen. 106 Kil. Sannesund, formerly called Aloim, 1/2 Engl. M. from the village of that name. Hundebunden (see above) lies 6 Kil. to the W. 109 Kil. (67 Sarpsborg (Railway Restaurant; Lillebye’s Hotel; Kristiansen’s Hotel, R. 2 kr.), a small town with 3300 in- hab., on the left bank of the Glommen , founded in 1840 on the site of an ancient town, which had been destroyed in 1567. To the N. of the town the river forms the lake of Glengshellen. To reach the *Sarpsfos we walk from the railway~station to the E. through the town to (25 min.) Hafslund. The river here pours its vast volume of water over a ledge of rock 140 ft. in width to a depth of 74 ft., while the water above and below the fall is 25-30 ft. deep. The scene is very imposing, particularly in May and June, when the river is in flood. As usual, at number of saw-mills and manufactories have been established on the brink of the thundering waters. The fall is crossed by 8. Suspension Bridge, constructed in 1854, borne by four piers, and farther up is the new railway-bridge (see below). It is interesting to watch the timber shooting over the fall. On the E. bank, by Hafslund, there is a channel for the descent of the sawn wood. The gallery here affords the best M‘View of the fall, which probably surpasses the Trollhatta in height and volume. It is, however, advisable to descend to the right bank and walk as far as the last house, whence the fall is seen in its full extent. The swirl of water below the fall resembles the surge of the ocean, and there is a strong back-eddy which sometimes catches the logs of timber and prevents their farther descent. The salmon-stairs, recently put up, should also be noticed. The farm of Hafslund, now the property of a company at Christiania, is distinguished for the beautiful trees in its park (8 min. from the bridge). —— In the winter of 1702 a portion of the right bank, 2000 ft. long and 1200 ft. broad, on which lay the Borggaard, a large farm-house, having been gradually undermined by the action of the water, was precipitated into the waterfall, a catastrophe which caused the death of fourteen persons and about 200 cattle. ‘1 The train now crosses the (rlommen by a lofty bridge, com- to Gothenburg. FREDERIKSHALD. 33. Route. 275 mending a view of the Sarpsfos to the right. 119 Kil. Skjeberg, situated in a marshy hollow; 131 Kil. Berg. The scenery here is tame and monotonous, woods and patches of arable land (Smaa- Lene) alternating with marshes and meadows. Farther on the train passes through several tunnels and reaches the Iddefjord. Stations Razmmen and Red. To the left rises a wall of rock. We cross the Tistedalselv and soon reach —— 136 Kil. (84 Fredrikshald (Schultz’s Hotel, Kirkegade, R. Q kr., L. and A. 80, B. 80 on, German landlord; S'vea Hotel, in the Torg; Jernbane Hotel, at the railway-station, well spoken of; these two less expensive), an old town, rebuilt after a fire in 1826, is picturesquely situated on both banks of the Tistedalselo, which here enters the Iddefjord. It is an important commercial place and one of the centres of the timber traffic of the E. districts of Nor- way and the adjoining parts of Sweden. On the SE. it is com- manded by the once important fortress of Fredrilcsten. The town contains 10,000 inhab., including numerous wealthy merchants, whose handsome villas line the bank of the fjord. Fredrikshald owes its name and its fortress to the bravery with which the inhabitants repelled the attacks of the Swedes in 1658, 1659, and 1660, in consequence of which Frederick II. exchanged its old name of Halden for the present form. The Swedes under Charles XII. again attacked the town in 1716, but were again unsuccessful, chiefly owing to the gallantry of the brothers Peder and Hans Colbjarnson. In 1718 Charles XII. besieged Fredrikshald a second time, but was shot in the trenches at the back of the fortress of Fredriksten on 11th Dec. of that year, whereupon the siege was raised by his army. A picturesque *Walk may be taken along the harbour, com- manding a fine view of the Fredriksten and of the wooded islet of Songs, to which we may row in a small boat (10 0.). Crossing the island through a narrow ravine we gain on the other side (10 min.) a beautiful view of the fjord and the island of Brate. From the market-place, where an unpretending monument has been erected in commemoration of the bravery of the brothers Colbjarnson , we ascend by a broad road, commanding a series of beautiful views, to the fortress of FREDRIKSTEN (370 ft.), con- nected with which are the forts of O'verbje'rg, Stortaarnet, and Gyldenlave. From the E. gate of the fortress a road leads to the left to (5 min.) the Commandant Park, a well laid out promenade, with a Monument of Charles XIL, erected in 1860 on the spot where that monarch fell in 1718. It consists of a cast-iron pyramid with an inscription by Tegne'r, to the effect that the hero, ‘alike in fortune and misfortune, was the master of his fate, and unable to flinch could but fall at his post’. In returning we choose the road through the *Tistedal, a valley containing a succession of picturesque waterfalls and several mills and manufactories. If ~the traveller has time to spare he may now cross the bridge and visit the W. part of the town, with its pretty promenades (music pavilion). 18* 276 Route 33. BILLINGS-FORS. From Christiania To the S.W. lie the beautiful park and villa of Red, the former open to the public. —— A charming drive may be taken through the Tistedal to (5 Kil.) Vein, a country-house which commands a fine view of the Tistedal and the Femsjo (p. 277). The STEAMBOAT VOYAGE FROM FREDRIKSHALD 'ro VENERSBORG by the Dalslands Canal (c. 160 Kil. or 100 Engl. M., twice weekly, in 2 days) is now comparatively little made since the opening of the railway described in R. 36. Travellers, however, who desire to see a little of the Swedish canal system are recommended to choose this route from Ed to Sunnanft. The Dalslands Canal was constructed in 1863-68 by Baron Nils Er'icson (brother of the ‘caloric’ engineer John Ericson), at a cost of 11/2 million kr. Its locks and sluices are among the greatest triumphs of engineer- ing skill in Sweden. The scenery through which the canal passes is pleasing, though not grand. A short branch-railway runs from Fredrikstad to Ed and to the ‘Lastplats‘ Lee, on the W. bank of the Stem Lee (330 ft.), a narrow lake 35 Engl. M. in length. We now embark on the canal steamer, which first steers to the N. to Foxen, as the N. end of the Stora Lee is called, and then to the S. to Tr'ankz'ls-Kyrka and Lennartsfors, a waterfall which it passes by means of three locks. It then enters Leelitngen (305 ft.), a lake 30 Engl. M. long. Near Gustafsfors, a station on the E. bank half- way down the lake, another canal diverges to the Vestra and Ostra Silen lakes, to which a steamboat usually plies weekly. At the S.E. end of Leelangen we pass through the two locks of — Bengtfors (Gdstglfoaregftrden), where the steamers in the opposite direction spend the night. The steamer now descends what may be termed a staircase of five locks to (6 Engl. M., while the traveller may walk) - Billingsfors ( Ge'istgr'fvaregétrden), where the steamer spends the night (‘71/4 hrs. from Strand). If all the berths are engaged, passengers are provided with quarters for the night on shore without additional payment. Billingsfors is prettily situated, and the neighbouring Kasberg commands a fine view. We now enter the Lamen-Sjo' (245 ft.), on the E. bank of which lies .Baldersnds, a charming country-house ‘belonging to Hr. ‘Warn, a mer- chant of Gothenburg, with pleasant grounds, hothouses, etc. (curious grottoes in the limestone-rock). —- Six more loocks next descend to Ril- oarpen (192 ft.), and another at Katr'ineholm to Aklc‘inge'n (185 ft.), a narrow lake with wooded banks, at the S.E. end of which we reach — *Hofverud (Inn), the most striking point on the canal. Great en- gineering difficulties had to be overcome here by Ericson’s genius. As the loose nature of the soil on one bank and the rocks on the other rendered it practically impossible to construct a canal adjoining the river here, Ericson conceived the bold plan of throwing an aqueduct (116 ft. long) over the waterfall itself, and in the execution of his plan he ‘has been eminently successful. The scenery at this point is also pleasing. While the vessel descends the four locks, the passenger may landv and ascend to a small Temple on the left (E.)‘ bank, which afl'ords a'fi'ne view. Below Hofverud are the two ho'ljar of Ofre and Nedre Holn. (Holja, a calm reach between two waterfalls.) Two locks descend thence to the Upperudho‘lja, beyond which the steamer traverses ‘the Hjerteruds-Sund and the Svansfiord. Lastly ‘it descends through the largest of all ‘the locks to Kopmannabro (p. 360) on Lake Venern (155 ft.), and steers along the W. bank of Lake Venern (about 31/2 hrs. more) to — , 3Venersborg (Ell/2 hrs. from ~Billingsfors). Thence to Gothenburg, see 6. Soon after leaving Fredrikshald we have a view of a huge wall of debris, penetrated by the Tistedalselv. The train then quits the Tistedal'(see above) by'a short tunnel and runs along an ancient moraine, resembling an artificial embankment. to Gothenburg. MON. 33. Route. 277 At (140 Kil. or 87 M.) Femsjeven we obtain a beautiful view of the lake of that name, which is about 37 Engl. M. in length and covered with hundreds of timber-rafts. The Femsje is connected with the large Aspem and other high-lying lakes by canals con-r structed to facilitate the timber traffic. A small steamboat plies on the lake. The fortress of Fredriksten is visible to the W. for a short time. The train passes through several tunnels and reaches (150 Kil.) Aspedammen. To the left a view is obtained of the .Qrsje. Large stacks of timber are passed near (158 Kil.) Prceste- bakke, beyond which we enter a thickly wooded district. 167 Kil. Ko'mse is the last Norwegian station. The line now crosses the Swedish frontier. The district, which is almost uninhabited, is marked by the traces of numerous forest conflagrations. At (177 Kil. or 110 Mon (Rail. Restaurant, D. 11/2 kr. ; comp. p. xx), the first station in Sweden, the custom- house examination takes place and time is allowed for dinner. The through train in the reverse direction arrives here at the same time. Beyond Mon the train traverses a large and bleak heath, surrounded by barren hills. Several cuttings are passed, showing the slate formation of the district. To the left is a hill of quartz, overlaid with white limestone. 185 Kil. Hiilcedalen. 189 Kil. (117 Ed, picturesquely situated above the Stora Lee, to which a short branch-line diverges here. (The ‘Lastplats’ Lee is the terminus of the steamers on the Dalslands Canal, see p. 276.) At the W. end of the station is a tall stone erected in memory of Charles XIL, who carved his name on an oak in the vicinity. The district beyond Ed abounds in marshes, and the scenery is monotonous. 207 Kil. Ba'ckefors. The train traverses a tunnel, passes the Tidke'rsjfi on the right, and reaches (‘217 Kil.) Dalskog. Farther on we pass, on the left, Lake No-radal and the small cha- lybeate baths of Rdstok. 233 Kil. (145 Mellerud, the junction of the Bergslagsbana. (R. 48) and of the line to (3 Kil.) Sunnand on Lake Venern. -— From Mellerud to (356 Kil. or 221 Gothenburg, see R. 48. 34. From Christiania to Gothenburg by Sea. 325 Kil. (201 Eng]. M.). STEAMBOATS. The excellent paddle-steamer Christiania plies direct to Gothenburg in 14 hrs., once weekly till the end of May and twice weekly from June to the middle of September. Its course lies outside the island-belt, and the sea is apt to be somewhat rough. Travellers who are inclined to sea-sickness may therefore prefer one of the slower boats, Oscar Dickson or Albert Ehrensvc'ird, which leave Christiania on Sun., Wed., Thurs, and Sat. at 11 p.m., and perform most of the voyage indenskeers, or within the island-belt. They are 16-18 hrs. on the way. The intermediate stations are Stro'mstad (whence local boats also ply several times weekly to Fredn'kshald), Lyseln‘l, Grebbestad, Fjell- bflfika, and Marsto'and The month of the Christiania Fjord is very bean- tiful, but is unfortunately passed at night by most of the, steamers lea-v— mg Christiania. ‘ ' ‘ ' 278 Route 34. STROMSTAD. From Christiania After the beautiful Fjord of Christiania is left behind, the coast scenery on this route is uninteresting, especially to those who have seen that of Norway, but the climate here is said to be unusually healthy, and the sea-bathing places are much frequented in sum- mer. The water is much salter and purer than in the recesses of the long Norwegian fjords. At some of the watering-places there are also mud-baths (gyttjabad). The inhabitants are chiefly fish- ermen, descendants of the ancient vikings, who have left represen- tations of their exploits in the ‘Ha'llristningar’ which are still to be seen in the parish of Tanum near Grebbestad, at Brastad near Lysekil, and elsewhere. At many points on the coast there are still remains of ancient castles, tombs, stone chambers (oalar), and mon- uments (bautastenar), so that this region (Bohusléin) is justly regarded as one of the cradles of the early sagas of the North. The fishermen are not unfrequently prosperous and wealthy, especially those of Smo'gen. The cod, herring, lobster, and oyster fisheries are the most important. Windmills crown almost every small eminence. The thousands of islands through which the steamer threads its course are little more than bare rocks. Oroust and Tjiirn, however, the largest of them, form exceptions, being fairly clothed with vegetation and at places well cultivated. The *FJoRn or CHRISTIANIA down to Moss is described in R. 5. Below Moss the fjord gradually widens, andpthe scenery becomes less interesting. At the mouth of the fjord the steamer steers to the E. into the picturesque fjord of Fredrikstad, see p. 273. -— It then passes the Hoaleer on the right (on the largest the watering-place of Kirke) and the Singeleer on the left, and enters the Soinesund, a long, narrow fjord, on a bay of which (the Idde- fiord) lies —— Fredrikshald, commanded by the fortress of Fredriksten (see p. 275). After calling at Fredrikshald the steamer descends the narrow Svinesund, which forms the boundary between Sweden and Norway, again passing the Hvaleer on the right. The first Swedish station is Striimstad (Glistgifvaregdrd, kept by Gegerfelt, with restaurant; private apartments also procurable), a town with upwards of 2000 inhab., and a favourite watering- place, situated at the efflux of the Strdmsli from the Striimsoatn. The badgyttja (‘bath—mud’), which possesses sanitary properties, is obtained from the Boijarvik, to the N. of the town, near the mineral spring Lejonkc'illan. In the environs are numerous caverns (bergsgrottor; the largest of which is Osterrb'dshdlan) and giant cauldrons (jiittegryttor), which have been formed partly by the action of water and partly by that of ancient glaciers. Striimstad is a great depot of oysters and lobsters. Beyond Stromstad the steamer steers through the narrow Harstensund, with the mainland on the left and the islands on the right. To the right we observe the Nordkosters Dubbelfyr (light-r to Gothenburg. LYSEKIL. 34. Route. 279 house). Near Grebbestad was fought the battle of Greby, where there are numerous tombstones. A road leads hence to Tanum, the Bullare Sj'o'arne (two long, narrow lakes), Ostad, Hofsa'ter, Eide Bratta (755 ft.), and Striimstad (p. 278). From Hofsater we may pro- ceed to Barby, in Norway, whence a steamer plies to Fredrikshald. The next station is Fjc'illbacka, with 800 inhab., the central point of the Swedish anchovy-trade, curiously situated at the foot of a precipitous wall of rock. The rock is penetrated by the Ram- melkldva or Djefvulskldva, a narrow cleft, near the top of which are several large stones wedged in between the opposing sides. The traveller may walk to the end of this singular gorge. To the W. are the Va'deriiar and the Va'derbodsfyr. We now enter the Sotefjord, with its numerous sunken rocks (blindskiir). On the peninsula of Sotenc'is to the left are the fishing-villages and bathing- places Smo'gen, Grafoerna, and T(°1ngen, beyond which is the Malmt'i, inhabited by the Malmiipyttar or Malmobarn, a small and peculiar race, supposed to be a remnant of the aboriginal Fin- nish population of Sweden. About 4 M. from Fjallbacka is — Lysekil (Hotel Bergfalk ,- Stora Badhuset), a favourite watering- place, lying on the S. extremity of the long peninsula. of Stdngena's, to the E. of which is the Bokena's. Between these peninsulas lies the Gullma'rsfiord, extending to the N.E. to Saltkc'illan, a little beyond which lies Qvz'strum, a prettily situated place. In spite of its almost total want of shade Lysekil surpasses even Marstrand in popularity as a sea-bathing resort. The bathing arrangements are good, and there are numerous tasteful villas. Beyond Lysekil some of the smaller coasting steamers take the inner course (‘in're va'gen’), passing through the Svanesund and between the islands of Oroust and Tjo'rn and the mainland. On their way they touch at Uddevalla (p. 287) and several other small watering-places. Most of the steamers, however, take the outer course (‘ytre vc'igen’), steering to the W. of the islands of Skaftt'iland, Oroust, and Tjorn. In Skaftiiland are Fiskebc'ickslcz'l and Grundsund, in- habited by fishermen and seafaring men. The next station is Gull- holmen on the Hermano. Farther on are seen the red houses and church of Moll'o'sund, on the island of Oroust. The rocks are cov- ered with Klipfisk (p. 239). The large steamers now pass through the Kirkesund, the smaller through the Albrektssund. Between Lysekil and Marstrand are the large lighthouses Me‘iskiirs Fyr in Oroust, to the W. of Mollosund, and Hamnska'rs Fyr, near the dangerous Paternoster Skc'ir, to the N. of Marstrand. Several other ligthhouses are also passed on this voyage, and every harbour has its distinguishing beacon. About 41/2 sea-miles from Lysekil, we next reach —- Haratrand (Stadshotellet), a town with 1400 inhab., on the E. side of a small island, visited by about 2000 sea-bathers an- 286 Route 35. GOTHENBURG. A‘n'ivat. nually. The handsome church of St. Mary dates ‘from 1460. The sea here is generally calm, being protected by the island-belt, and the water is strong and bracing owing to the large quantity of salt it contains. The mild climate has gained for Marstrand the name of the ‘Swedish Madeira’. In the middle of the island is St. Erik’s Grotto, with a spring once used in connection with heathen sacrificial rites. Opposite the town, to the W., rises the fortress of Karlsten, the ‘Gibraltar of the North’. To the N. is the K06, with the small bathing-place of Arvidsvilc. Small steamers ply regularly between Marstrand and Gothenburg. — About 21/4 M. farther S. the steamboat reaches the'mouth of the Gdt'a-Etf, which it now ascends to -— Gothenburg, see below. 35. Gothenburg. Arrival. The large sea-going steamers land at the Sto-ra Bommens 'Hamn (Pl. F, 2), the canal steamers at the Lilla Bommens Hamn (Pl. G. 1), both at some distance from the hotels. Hotel-omnibuscs (75 o.) and cabs (see below) meet the steamers. The Stockholm Railway Station (Pl. H, 1, 2) is quite close to the hotels, so that it is needless to take the omnibus. The station of the Bergslagsboma (Pl. H, 1; RR. 36, i8) is a little farther off. Hotels. *HAGLUND‘s & Go'rA KALLARE (Pl a, H, 2), in the Sodra Hamngata, two separate houses, of which the former contains the best bedrooms, the latter the dining-room, etc., R. 3 kr., A. 25, L. 50 6.; meals a la carte. —— *Cnms'rrArirA (Pl. b; H, 2), Drottningtorget 4', R. from 2 kr.; ROYAL (Pl. c; H, 2), Ostra Linggatan 8; *HGTEL KARL XV. (Den Femtonde; Pl. d; H, 2), Kopmansgatan, near the station; PRINS KARL (Pl. e; H, 2); STADT HAMBURG, the last all unpretending. RESTAURANTS. *Go'ta-Kdllm'e, see above; *Bo'rsen, Gustaf-Adolfs-Torg; Frimurarelogen, Sodra Ham-ngatan 31; Htnr-tksberg, at Stz'gbergslz'den (Pl. C, 3), with view of the harbour. -- Gafés (Schwettzerier): *Café du Commerce, Skeppsbron; Bo'rsen, see above, Nissen, Kungsgatan 15; at the New Theatre; at the *Trddgdrds-Fo'renig, p. 283. The Gothenburg LICENSING SYs'rEM, which has given rise to so much controversy, has been in operation here for many years and is said to have worked well. It is at least certain that drunkenness has diminished ‘greatly of late years. The system was also introduced at Stockholm in October, 1877, and the results are said to have been beneficial‘. The leading features of the system of licensing, or rather of non-licensing, are that a company is empowered to buy up all licenses and existing rights, vand to open a limited number of shops for the sale of pure and unadul- terated spirits, the salaried managers of which have no interest whatever in the sale of the spirits. The company, which is under the supervision of the municipality, after deducting interest at the rate of 5 per cent on the capital expended, hands over the whole of the surplus profits to the civic authorities, thus afi'ording very substantial relief to the rate-payers, and to some extent throwing the burden of maintaining the poor upon those who impoverish themselves by their own improvidence and intem- perance. Post office (P1. 23; F, 2), Packhus-Torg. Telegraph Office, in the Museum (P1. 27; G, 2), Norm Hamngatan . Honey Changers. Skandtnavick Bank; John Odell, Franskatomte'n, by “the Skeppsbro; Schro‘der, Brodrene Larson, both in the Norra Hamngatan. Cabs (Droskor). Per drive within the town, 1-2 pers. 75 6., 34 pers. 1‘kr. ;v longer drive 11/4-33/4 kr.; tg the Slottsskogspark13/4 or 21/4 kr. -- For one hour 1-2 pers. 11/2 kr., -4_pers._ 2kr.; each additional "/2 hr. 60 01-75 61-“ Each large article of luggage 10 6.‘ - ' ' QQUEFWE. HHWWm mqofim. 8 I buqbfiwfifizfi §w§§~ .00 was»? 0 so . .. a. QN~§§MS ehegeszfi . . mgm: 0 “agave-w. o J ‘a. 1. Ewkbgsw .r/ A’ , gimgiw. .. ggwevzeagfimw o Qiiwegaz .. °.° .. t t” , . . xv.» D Q hagvzla r: . .b a? \Li a 89:3 .... . . .s rm Eésass a. ..~ : we. .1 H3». 0: A l B c 1 1) l Fa 1r Y’ i sin-J ‘l! ‘ e . ' 2 ‘\ .1 a l ? eorssoac.§ "l . 1: 21.500 .‘\ , .ioo _ o __&Q___iUO___ZQ:O-_____LQ_OO 51in Yards —-——59C Mét res -,\ L . N17, 1,. 5J3 T N (I i. . \ ~» I _ ' \ g m , \t \ _ -" c 5 £5‘, Kn : \ g - ’ . a ‘0;. .' ‘I v _‘. Ft; ’- c: . .: ,.. .7) s D -' ~~.~;, J's : why/c , 2V3. c" .- ! ~. .. _ ..___. L is- *5 I; 5 a a; 5 :~ til“: 1 a 3x41“! 7 1. (‘art Joluuzs Kvrka . A51». 5 14¢. Iib'zs‘un . -.2. 5 i715’ 2.1)0/11 Ig'i'rkan . . 0.2. 15..Bru7m.s7)arkc’n . . .2. _ 60d 111"" /" ::. Engolslm n , . . rs. ; l6. (,‘usmf'Adolfi' Starr . 6.2. '1 4&6'117'1113'0715' 1! . G24 17. Qwnnastikhus. . . . E3. \s r __ 3. Ilaga '.' . 1241.‘ 18.10am?! . . . F3. a sis . l , o. .Io/zazmis arr/{a . csfi lgli’uflws . . . . . e1. ggrgfl‘ft‘m" |R.1111_1/21u1113~1[6[.& ()iilakiz'llarelli.‘ 7. It'utlmlska 1’ . C- l- i 20- JIM-9011111 - 32- \\\\\\ 5 'blt'ris'tjmu'a R2. ' '8.Kri.¢u‘1:e . H (1.2. 21. rl'urr'yaliwwfl'ola . 0.1. \\ Cllqwtl . II Elnjvrmgqga . ILL’. : 22..._'vu Teeter/1 . . 0.3. ~\ (1.007.117 , . H.'.!._ E 133.1’05‘tlrusv . _ . . . 1.‘.2. 6 e. Frills Karl. . . n2. 1 '10. .tumamta é'julfllue‘ . 0.3. f 2r. stratus . 0.2. f.$''tadl'.lfir.mbzuy ! lLAr'bcts'lzus. . 13. f 'Z.5..Rmslriinl.s‘7m..1'>'ad . E3, 1 l'lArIilZari L‘Zabl.’ . . . ' ‘.3. f Zfiflnridcns _ . F2. I Zlliuzar . . F13. 0.3. ' 27. Telegrrll‘. . . . . 6.1.’. r.‘ I c in. f 1' Ge 0 gra pl: . A'nst. Ll i von “'21 finer & I) shes , Leipzig. . __..__.____.-_.___.. __. curt; (a, l .ler'nvz'igs station tell/natal.any» ‘v. 9.- 7 ‘(ye 11)/61116 a. o , \ . a . Q$~§\¥‘~&\“@" v. Qs 0. “3 °~ I.” > Q 1""“7 1 a, a; I 24.000 W0 Mat!‘ 08 w '— En U610. Wagner 5- e vs, Le - l g‘. Gustaf-Adolfs-Torg. GOTHENBURG. 35. Route. 281 Tramway from the Brunnspark through the Sodra Hamngatan, Maga- sinsgatan, and Nya Allee to Stigbergsliden (comp. the Plan, G 2, F 2, 3, ECD,3); fare 10 o. steamboats. To Christiania (comp. R. 34) five times weekly in 14-18 hrs. (fares 18, 12 kr.); to Stromstad and Fredm'kshald (see p. 278) almost daily; to Ucldevalla ten times weekly; to Fredrtkshavn in summer daily, on the arrival of the Stockholm express (in 5-51/2 hrs.; fares 8, 6, it kr.); to Copenhagen daily (11—24 hrs.), some of the steamers going direct, others touching at intermediate ports (cabin 15-18, steerage 12-16 kr.); to Stockholm through the Trollhatta and Gota Canals and Lakes Venern and Vettern three times weekly (at present Tues., Thurs., Sat., 11 p.m.), in 2 days (fares 30, 25 kr.; comp. R. 39), also a coasting steamer from Gothen- burg to Stockholm twice weekly in 31/2-4 days; to London on Thursdays (from London on Fridays); to Hall on Fridays (from Hull on Saturdays); too Letth fortnightly; also to Hamburg, etc. — Small steam-launches (Angslapar) also ply frequently from Skeppsbron (Pl. E, F. 2) to Klz'ppan (every 1/41 hr.), Majorna, Nya Varfvet (hourly), Nya Elfsborg and Ldngedrag (6 times daily), Bratten (thrice daily), and Stjernotk (sea-baths; thrice daily). Sea Baths at Lc‘tngedrag (pleasant excursion by steam-launch, see above; ‘Kallbad‘ 75 6., ‘Varmbad’ 1 kr. ; Café Miramar) and at Stjernvtl: (see above). River Baths by the Histngbro (Pl. G, 1). Warm Baths in the Renstro'mska Badanstalt and in the B'runnspark (p. 282). Favourite Resorts. Trc'idgc‘lrdsforen-z'ngens-Park (p. 283; music in the evening); Lorensberg (Pl. H, 4), with a bust of Wadman, the poet, by Molin; Slottsskogs-Park, p. 283. A Sunday ‘Lusttur‘ to the‘iS'ky'om'e‘ (Lyse- kil, p. 279) is interesting for the view it affords of the pleasures of the people; comp. the newspapers for Saturday. English Church in the Rosenlundsgata (reached by the Ekelundsgata from the W. end of the S. Hamngata). Gothenbu'rg, Swed. Gdteborg (57° 42-’ N. lat), a busy and pros- perous commercial city, with 76,760 inhab., lies on the Giitaelf, about 5 Engl. M. from its mouth, and possesses an excellent harbour, which is rarely closed by ice. The wide plain sur- rounding the town, though diversified with a few barren gneiss hills, is unattractive. The town itself presents a remarkably hand- some and pleasing appearance , for which it is largely indebted to the enterprise and public spirit of the wealthier inhabitants. The suburbs of Gullbergs Vass and Stampen to the E. , Haga, Albosta- den, and Annedal to the W. and S.W., and Masthugget, Majorna, and Nya Va'rfvet to the W. now form part of the town. Gothenburg is quite a modern place, having been founded in 1621, and it is to the Dutch settlers of that period (including the wealthy Abraham Oabeliou) that it owes the peculiar form of its streets and canals. The first great impulse was given to its com- merce by the great continental blockade, during which it formed the chief depot of the English trade with the north of Europe. The principal foreign merchants now resident here are Scotch and German. The principal manufactures are cotton, machinery, and sugar. The numerous breweries and the ship-building wharfs are also conspicuous features. The business-centre of the town, about equidistant (8 min.) from the railway-station and the principal steamboat-quay, is the Gustaf-Ardel-fs-Torg- (Pl. G, 2), on the N. side of which rises‘the Bore (P1. 14), or Exchange, the finest edifice in Gothenburg, 282 Route 35. GOTHENBURG. Gb‘teborgs Museum. erected in the Renaissance style in 1849, and embellished with twelve cast-iron columns in front. To the W. of it is the Ridhus (P1. 24), or Town Hall, designed by Nic. Tessin, and built in 1670, but afterwards considerably altered. Behind it rises the German Christina-Kyrka (Pl. 8). The centre of the Torg is em- bellished with a Statue of Gustavus Adolphus (P1. 16), the founder of Gothenburg, designed by Fogelberg. This was the second statue cast from the same model. The first was wrecked when on its way from Hamburg to Gothenburg, and was recovered by sail- ors of Heligoland, who claimed so exorbitant a sum for salvage that the Gothenburgers refused to pay it, and preferred ordering the statue to be executed anew (1854). The original statue now adorns the Domsheide at Bremen. At the S.E. angle __of the Torg is the junction of the Stora- Hamn—Kanal and the Ost'ra-Hamn-Kanal, the two most important of the canals intersecting the town. The former is flanked with the handsome quays called the Norra and the Siidra Stora Hamn- gata. — In-the angle formed by these two canals lies the Brunns- Park (P1. 15; G, 2), with pretty grounds and an establishment for warm baths. At Norra Stora Hamngatn 12, in the building of the old East India Company, is the Gbteborgs Museum (P1. 20; G, 2), a meritorious collection of pictures, zoological specimens, and in- dustrial objects (admission on week-days 10-2.30 and 4—6, 25 6.; on Sundays, 12-3 and 6-8, 10 6.). The NATURAL HISTORY COLLECTION includes admirable specimens of most of the fauna of Scandinavia, among the most conspicuous being a fine eland (Elg). A collection of plaster masks of distinguished men and notorious criminals is also shown here. —- Upstairs are the PICTURES (Tajlor), the best of which are: Tidemand, Bear—hunters, Rustic visitors; Gude, Landscape; Mb'ller, The Sognefjord; D’Unker, W'aiting-room, Dress- ing-room. Here also is a marble group of Cupid and Psyche, by Fogel- berg and Molin. A few paces to the W. of the Museum is the Harbour, with the Stora Bommens Hamn (Pl. F, 2), the landing-place of the large steamers. Close to this point is the Post Office (P1. 23), with the Custom House on the lower floor. On an elevation to the right stands the School ofNa'oigation (P1. 21 ; G, 1). A little farther on are the Prison and the Lilla Bommens Hamn (Pl. G, 1), the land- ing-place of the local steamers. To the S. of the Stora Hamn Canal, near the harbour, is the Landshdfdingsresidens (P1. 26; F, 2), or residence of the governor of the district. Farther on a steep flight of wooden steps ascends to the S. to the top of the rocky Stora Otter-Ha'lleberg (Pl. F, 2), which commands a good view of the town and harbour. To the S., on another hill, is the Artillery Station (P1. 12), beyond which is the entrenchment of Kronan. To the W. is the Skeppsbro (Pl. E, F, 2), a long quay from which the steam-launches start. At the S. end of the Skeppsbro is the Rosenlunds Canal (Pl. E, 3), where English Church. GOTHENBURG. 35. Route. 283 a number of fishing-boats from the Bohuslriiner Ska'r (islands of the coast-district between Gothenburg and Striimstad) usually lie with their cargoes of ‘Klipflsk’ caught and dried on the W. coast of Norway. To the E. of this point the Sodra Stora Hamngata leads to the Wallgraf (‘moat’), to the left of which is the Stockholm Railway Station (p. 280) in the Drottningtorg. Beyond the Wallgraf lies the *Garden of the Tradgirdsforening (Pl. H, 2, 3), with its hothouses and exotic plants (restaurant; music in the evening; adm. 10 6., hothouses 25 6. extra). On the S.W. side of the Wallgraf extends the pleasant Kungs- park, intersected by the Nya Allee, adjoining which is the New Theatre (P1. 22; G, 3), completed in 1850. In front of the theatre is placed a replica of Molin’s *Br‘iltespa'nnare (p. 336). To the S. runs the Nya Allee, with a number of handsome private residences, including the villa of Mr. Oscar Dickson, so well known for his energy and liberality in organising Arctic expeditions and initiat— ing other public and philanthropic enterprises. Farther on, on the left side of the Nya Allee, rises the Haga- Kyrka. (Pl. 5; F, 4), the church of the suburb of that name, de- signed by Edeloa'rd, and erected in 1856, a great part of the cost having been defrayed by Mr. David Carnegie, a wealthy Scotch brewer. We now turn to the S., cross the Annedal, a quarter in- habited-by artizans, and reach the charming *Slottsskogs-Park (Pl. D, 6; cab, see p. 280), a visit to which should not be omit- ted. On the S. side is a ‘Schweitzeri’ or cafe’, where cold meat (Kall Seara, comp. p. 312), etc., may be obtained. To the N. is a good point of view (Pl. D, 5). -— In returning from the Slottsskogs— Park we may proceed to the W., passing the old entrenchment of Kronan (Pl. E, 4; view), to the ‘Jerntorg’ (Pl. E, 3), in the suburb of Masthugget, where we take a tramway to Stigbergsliden (Pl. C, 3). The terminus is near the St. Johannz's Kyrka (Pl. 6), a few hundred paces beyond which is the loftily situated restaurant of Hinriksberg, commanding an admirable view, particularly by evening-light. Opposite lies the island of Hisingen, enclosed by two branches of the Gdtaelf and containing Lindholmens Mekaniska Verlcstad , where many of the useful Swedish steam-launches are built. -— To the W. of Masthugget, on rising ground, is the suburb of Majorna, containing the Karl Johans Kyrka (Pl. 1), several ex- tensive shipbuilding yards, and the Porter Brewery and Sugar Factory of Mr. Carnegie. Among the other churches of Gothenburg may be mentioned the English Church (Pl. 3; F 3), in the Rosenlunds-Gata, at the S. end of the Kasernen-Torg, and the Roman Catholic St. Josephs- Kapelle (Pl. 7; G1), in the Spanmalsgata. To the S.E. of the town lies a quarter containing the numer- ous pleasant-looking villas of the wealthy merchants of Gothen- burg, which may be visited by carriage. Most of them lie on the 284 Route 35. HALMSTAD. Danska Vt'igen, the prolongation of the Korsvagen (comp. Pl. I, 4). Many of the gardens and parks are open to the public. The interesting New Cemetery (‘Nya Begrafningsplatsen’) con- tains a monument to Bengt Fogelberg by Molin, that of Sven Ren- strom by Scholander, etc. The large trees were transplanted from the old cemetery in 1865 at great cost. Towns TO THE S. or GOTHENBUBG. Steamboats ply almost daily from Gothenburg to the principal towns on the W. coast, but few travellers will extend their tour in this direction. The steamboat traverses the Ska'rgc‘ird and cross- es the Askimsfjord. The wooded Sa'ro', a pretty island, is much frequented by sea-bathers (steamer from Gothenburg daily). Far- ther on , at the head of a deep bay, is the small town of Kongs- backa. We then reach -- Varberg ( Varberg’s Hotel), an old town with 2500 inhab., much visited for sea-bathing. To the W. rises the old castle, now used as a house of correction. FROM VARBERG 'ro BoRKs (Herrljunga), 85 Kil. (521/2 Engl. M.), rail- way in 31/2-41/2 hrs. (fares 5 kr. 95, 3 kr. 40 5.). The intermediate sta- tions are unimportant. The last two, Vz'skafors and Rydboholm, possess large cotton manufactories. Bards, and the prolongation of the line to join the main railway. see p. 289. Passing M orupstc‘inges .Fyr the steamer next stops at Falkenberg. a town with 1500 inhab. and a large salmon fishery. —— Then —— Halmstad (Hotel Mdrtensson ,‘ Svea), with 6800 inhab, 0n the Nissad, the seat of the governor of the province of Holland, with an old church and an old castle. Itisa centre of the ‘Halmstadlax’, or salmon fishery. FROM HALMSTAD T0 LINDEFORS, 161 Kil. (100 Eng]. M.), railway in 81/2 hrs. (fares 15 kr. 10, 12 kr. 10, 7 kr. 55 5.). The train ascends the valley of the Nissaii. 5 Kil. Sperlingsholm, an old estate of Baron Sper- ling, with a modern chateau and a large park. Most of the other stations are unimportant. Some of them have large saw-mills. 115 Kil. Vernamo, with an important annual fair. The railway is now being continued from Lindefors to Noissjo' (p. 301). The next steamboat-station is Laholm, on the Ldgad, with 1500 inhabitants. Then Torekov, at the S. base of the Holland- sds, a diluvial range of hills, 650 ft. in height, extending to the SE. to Skane, which isointersected by other chains of similar character. These hills (Asar) consist chiefly of sand and loose stones, and are either the huge moraines of primeval glaciers, or ancient submarine deposits. Off Torekov lies Hallands Vc'idero', an island protecting the harbour, and so named to distinguish it from the Vddero‘ar in the Bohusliin in the Sotefjord (p. 279). A the end of the Skelderviken, a bay penetrating far into the land, lies Engelholm (p. 392), on the Riinneti, a small town with considerable fisheries and trade in grain. Lastly Kullaberg, or Kullen, and Helat'ngborg (see R. 52). 285 36. From Gothenburg to Venersborg. Trollha'tta Falls. Lake Venern. 88 Kil. (55 Engl. M.). RAILWAY (‘Bergslagsbana’ to flan. red and ‘Vestra Stambana‘ thence to Venersborg) in 3-31/2 hrs. (fares 6 kr. 70, 3 kr. 40 6.). Return-tickets (‘Tur och Retur’) available for two days, are issued at reduced rates, and on Sunday return-tickets for the day are issued at a single fare. A visit to the TRoLLnA'r'rA FALLS may accomplished in one day, but as the view is most favourable by morning light it is customary to spend a night in the Trollhatta Hotel. Those who do not object to a somewhat uncomfortable berth may make use of the Stockholm Steamer on the (iota Canal, which starts on Tues., Thurs., and Sat. evenings, or of the Karl- stad Steamer, which starts on Wed. at 6 p.m. and Sat. at 8 p.m. The voyage takes 6-7ohrs. (in the reverse direction 5-6 hrs). The traveller may either land at Akersvass and walk thence to the Falls, or go on the whole way to Trollhatta. The ‘Bergslagsbana’ at first ascends the wide valley of the Gdta- elf, passing several unimportant stations. At S'urte we obtain a view, to the left, of the large ruined castle of Bohus, which gives its name to the whole of this district (Bohuslc'in), formerly a part of Norway. The principal tower is known as ‘Fars Hat’, or the Father’s Hat. Beyond (25 Kil.) Nol (Buffet) the train quits the valley and ascends to the right. The scenery is of the sparsely wooded nature characteristic of W. Sweden. — 56 Kil. Upphd'rad. The view be- comes more open, and cultivated fields are passed. Beyond Velanda, which is prettily situated , the Halleberg and Hunneberg (p. 288) rise to the right. 72 Kil. (45 Trollhattan. — The RAILWAY STATION is about 3/4 Engl. M. from the town, with which it is connected by a road entirely destitute of shade. Hotel omnibus 50 6. Hotel. HOTEL TiroLLnA'rrAN, the property of the Trollhatta Canal (30., indifferent and somewhat expensive, R. 2-3 kr., B. 75, A. 25 a. No meals are served after 10 p.m. \Vhen the hotel is full, which in summer is not unfrequently the case, visitors are assigned rooms in private houses, for which 3 kr. are charged. It is advisable to order rooms in advance. A visit to the *WATERFALLs (guide superfluous) and the Canal takes 21/2-3 hrsn7 the falls alone 3/4 hr. We descend past the falls by the path described below to the locks of Akersvass; then ascend and follow the road skirting the canal to the Mekant'slc Verkstad. Thence we may either continue to follow the road, or turn to the left and re-ascend :past the falls. -— The traveller’s patience will be severely tried by the numerous dealers in photographs and other small objects. A fee of 5-10 6. is paid for the opening of the sluices at the saw-mills. Trollhiittan, a small town with upwards of 3000 inhab. and a picturesque Gothic church, consists almost entirely of .manufactories, which avail themselves of the motive power afforded by the falls (estimated at 225,000 horse-power), and of workmen’s houses. The falls are six in number, besides which there are several cataracts and rapids, distributed over a distance of 160 yds., and in all 108 ft. in height. Neither the falls nor their adjuncts can be called picturesque, and the effect of the principal falls is diminished by the islands in the middle of the stream; 1but the enormous volume of water makes the spectacle extremely imposing, 286 Route 36. TROLLHATTA FALLS. FromGothenbua-g and in this respect they are unsurpassed in Europe. The interest is greatly enhanced by the skilfully constructed series of locks and sluices on the left side of the river, which serve to maintain un- interrupted communication by water between Gothenburg and Lake Venern (Gbta Canal, Stockholm). Leaving the hotel we cross the bridge over the N. end of the canal, and then follow the broad path to the right, which passes a saw-mill, two small islands, and the old Ekeblads Sluss, and leads to the Speko. From this point we have a view of the Gullb Falls, 23 ft. in height and divided into two parts by the inaccessible is- land of Gullb. High up on the right bank stands the villa of Stro'msberg. We then follow the main path towards the S., and beyond the next bridge turn to the right and reach a Saw-mill, with a large stock of timber. We pass through the yard. of this mill and cross a small swaying bridge to the island of Toppii (25 6., for a charitable purpose, is deposited in the money-box here). One person only may cross this bridge at a time. The platform and the two galleries passed on the left before we reach the bridge. and the island of Toppb afford the best view of the **Topp6 Fall, 42 ft. in height, by far the finest of the series. The island of Toppo se- parates the Toppo Fall proper from the Tjuf Fall (‘thief fall’) on the W. The lower gallery projects immediately over the principal fall, and affords an admirable view of its boiling and foaming waters. The Slcra'ddarelclint, a rocky barrier formerly here, has been under- mined and carried away by the stream. We now return to the main path and follow it to the S. to the Kungsgrotta , one half of a ‘Giant’s Cauldron’ (see below), which is inscribed with the names of numerous visitors. To the left is the old *Polhems Sluss, constructed at the beginning of the 18th cent., in the reign of Charles XII., but disused since 1755 (p. 287). The grotto commands a fine view of the river. At the top of the rock is a monument erected by the Artizans’ Union. We now descend slightly to the right to the *Slampestro'ms Fall, 8 ft. in height, below which the river expands into the compara— tively calm Hoijumsvarp. The opposite bank is here steep and rocky; at its foot is an apparatus for catching salmon. Those who are satisfied with seeing the three main falls ascend the flight of steps to the left of the Polhems Sluss, which receives a small and picturesque waterfall, and return to the hotel by the principal path, passing the Church on their way. Those who are not fatigued are, however, recommended to take the footpath to the right below the church, which leads through pine and fir woods, passing an oil-mill (Oljeslageri) on the left and the villa Djupa Dalen on the right. Immediately beyond the latter, a few paces to the left of the path, is an unusually symmetrical Ja'tlegryta, or ‘Giant’s Cauldron’. A finger-post (‘Vag till Utsigten’) beyond this indicates the way to a Villa mid Utsigtstom (25 6.), in which photo- to Venersborg. VENERSBORG. 36. Route. 287 graphs, maps, etc., are offered for sale. The villa commands a view of the Heloetes Falls (‘hell falls’), 25 ft. in height, and of the Kopparklt'nt. We next pass the Mekanisk Verkstad on the left and descend by a picturesque path to the river, which here expands and forms the Olideno‘ilan. We now skirt the river by the Dt'idens (Ring to the Hjertatsudde, whence we enjoy a retrospect of all the falls, the church, etc. The pretty path (‘Karlekens Stig’) leads on, passing the Elfoz' Slus's and the Flottbergsstrdm, to —— Akersvass, with its fine trees, fountains, and chalet. The eleven new *Locks of Alcersvass are among the most interesting structures of the kind on the Gtita Canal. They are adjoined by several old and now disused locks. We may ascend on either bank, but the S. bank, adjoining the new looks, is preferable. At the top we (reach a Balcony, commanding a charming view, and the hamlet of Alters— berg, 2 Engl. M. from the Trollhatta Hotel. The chief obstacle to the construction of the Gota Canal (comp. p. 297) was presented by the formidable waterfalls and cataracts of Trollhatta; and the first attempt to overcome the difficulty was made at the be- ginning of the 18th cent. by the talented engineers Sveolenborg and Pol- hem, who proceeded to construct three locks (Ekeblads, Polhems, and Elfi Sluss), by means of which they hoped to enable vessels to pass the waterfalls. In 1755, however, after several interruptions, the enter- prise had to be abandoned, and these old locks now form a not unpic- turesque ruin. In 1800 eight new looks were successfully constructed, and are still in use, serving for the passage of small vessels; but, as these soon proved inadequate for the requirements of the shipping trade, eleven new looks on a largeroscale were formed by Ericson in 183644. All these locks are situated at Akersoass, besides which there are two at Lt'tla Edet and one at Aker'sstro'm, below Trollhatta, and two more above it.v at Br'inkebergs Kulle near Venersborg, where the waterfall of Rtctnnum. 68 ft. in height, has to be avoided. These immense locks, forming a kind of staircase by means of which vessels are enabled to ascend and descend with ease and safety between the North Sea and Lake Venern, 144 ft. above it, form one of the principal objects of interest on the canal and lake-route between Gothenburg and Stockholm. Comp. pp. 297, 298. *— Beyond Trollhattan the train crosses the Gota-Elf and reaches —-- 80 Kil. (50 M.) Oxnered, the junction of the Bergslagsbana, which goes on to Mellerud, Kil, and Falun (see p. 360), with the Uddevalla and Venersborg line. Passengers for Venersborg change carriages here. FROM OXNERED TO UDDEVALLA, 25 Kil. (151/2 Engl. M.), in 1% hr. —- 6 Kil. Grunnebo; 9 Kil. Ryr; 15 Kil. Engebacken. , 25 Kil. Uddevalla (Gt'z'stgtlfvaregt‘it'd), a busy trading town, with 6000 inhab., prettily situated on the Byflord. Pleasant walks in the environs. The Skansberg is the best point of view. The Kapellbackar (200 ft.), to the S., are famed for their fossils. In the vicinity is Gustafsberg, a pleasant watering-place. —- From Uddevalla we may proceed by steamer to Gothenburg, or to the N. to Strtimstad and Fredrikshald (p. 278). Comp. the ‘Kommunikationer’. _, If we do not catch a train from Oxnered to Venersborg (4 Kil.) we may take a carriage. The railway and the road both cross the Vasbotten, a small bay of Lake Venern. 84 Kil. (521/2 Venersborg (*Stadshuset ,- Hotel Victoria), a 288 Route 36. LAKE VENERN. town with 5300 inhab., at the ‘S. end of Lake Venem, lies at the point where the Gotaelf emerges from the lake, and is entirely surrounded with water. On the E. side are the lake and the river, and on the W. side the Vasbotten, which the canal called the Karlsgmf connects with the river. On the E. side the Gotaelf is crossed by the Rfmnumsbro and an iron bridge over the Huf'vud- niis Fall,- on the W. side the Dalbobro, a stone bridge, crosses the lake to Dal; and towards the S. the Gropbro, constructed in 1642, crosses the Karlsgraf. The town has frequently been burned down, and now consists of unusually spacious streets. Extensive market-place. T heK asen is a favourite pleasure-resort, with a theatre and garden. No fewer than sixty steamboats maintain communi- cation between Venersborg and Gothenburg, Stockholm, the towns on LakeVenern, and the canals diverging from the lake. The most im— portant ofthese, after the Gota Canal, is the Dalslands Canal (p.276). Lake Venern, an immense sheet of water (100 Engl. M. long; 50M. wide between Am‘al and Mariestad; about 2290 Engl. sq. M. in area; 143 ft. above the sea-level), where storms not unfrequently impede the navigation, forms an inland sea into which fall most of the rivers of Vester-Gotland and Vermland, including the Klarelf, one of the largest rivers in‘Sweden. These rivers, which fre- quently expand into the long lakes so characteristic of the Scan- dinavian peninsula, traverse vast tracts of forest, and afford easy and natural routes for the transport of timber to the lake, whence the Gotaelf conveys it to the coast. On the left bank of the Gotaelf, to the S.E. of Venersborg, rise the steep and wooded Halleberg (485 ft. ; with an ‘Attestupa’, p. 380), and the Hunneberg (490 ft.), both with lakes on their plateaux. The latter is ascended from Venersborg via (8 Kil.) Nygard. FROM VENERSBORG T0 HERRLJUNGA, 65 Ki]. (40 Engl. M.), railway in 3 hrs. (fares 4 kr. 30, 2kr. 1L5 6.). — The train crosses a cataract formed by the Gotaelf after emerging from the lake, passes between the Halle- berg and the Hunneberg, and reaches (10 Kil.) Lilleskog. To the left lies the Dettern, a. bay of Lake Venern. 19 Kil. Sahlstad; 24 Kil. Grds- torp; 33 Kil. Ulfstm'p. From (38 Kil.) Hdkantorp a branch-line diverges to (28 Kil.) Le'dko'pz'ng (11/2 hr.; see p. 290). 44 Kil. Va'ra; 54 Kil. Ved'um. —- 65 Kil. Herrljunga, see p. 289. 37. From Gothenburg to Stockholm. 458 Kil. (Q84 Engl. M.). Two through-trains daily, a night-train in ill/4 hrs., and a. day-train in 161/2 hrs. (fares 38 kr. 95, 27 kr. 50 6.). The very slow local and mixed trains (fares 32 kr. 10, 24 kr. 5, 16 kr. 5 is.) stop for the night at Hallsberg. -- Those who wish to see Lake Vettern take the train from Falko'pz'ng to Jonko'ping, and the steamboat thence to Motala and Hallsberg (comp. RR. 38, 39). . This important railway (the Vcstra Stambana) intersects the whole of Sweden from S.W. to N.E. , and connects the two- most important cities in the kingdom. The scenery is pleasing nearly the whole w‘ay,~but ‘has ‘no pretension to grandeur. ALINGSAS. 37. Route. 289 The train at first ascends the broad valley of the Giitaelf, pass- ing the suburb of Stampen on the right, and Gullbcrgs Vass, and the old redoubt of Lejonet on the left. 9 Kil. Partilled; 15 Kil. Jonsered, beautifully situated on the Aspen-Sjo'. Near (20 Kil.) Lerum the train crosses the Sd'foed by a bridge of five arches, and ascends to (27 Kil.) Floda, at the W. end of the lake of that name. Farther on, the line traverses an embankment 914 yds. long, and is carried through the hill called Krosekullen by a cutting 1007 yds. long. Scenery still very pleasing. 35 Kil. Noresund. 46 Kil. (281/2 Engl. M.) Alingsiis (Nya Hotellet), with ‘2200 inhab. and several large manufactories, prettily situated near the influx of the Safvea into Lake Mjom, was founded in 1611 by inhabitants of the neighbouring town of Lodose, which had been destroyed by the Danes. —— The train crosses the Safvea several times, quits that river near (60 Kil.) Lagmansholm, and traverses several extensive moors (Svéiltor, see below). 67 Kil. Vc°wg&rda. 80 Kil. (50 M.) Herrljunga. , a prettily situated place‘, is the junction of branch-lines to the N.W. to Venersborg, Oxnered, and Uddevalla seep. 287) and to the S. to Boris. Railway-travellers from Stockholm may diverge here to Venersborg in order to visit the Falls of Trollhatta. FROM HERBLJUNGA T0 BoRXs, 42 Kil. (26Eng1.1\1.), railway in 2 hrs. (fares 2 kr. 95, 1 kr. 60 6.). At stat. Ljzmg begin the dreary moors known as Svdltor (‘famine lands"). Stations Bo'rstenag. Fv-z'stad. —- Boris (Hotel Vestergo‘tland; Eklund’s; Boréis Hotel), with 4000 inhab. and numerous cotton-mills, is a pleasant little town. Pretty walks in the environs. — From Boo-as to Varberg, see p. 284. From Herrljwoga to Lidko'ping and Venersborg, see p. 288. 87 Kil.(54 Foglcwilc; 101 Kil. Sorby. At Marita Kyrlta the line reaches its highest point (740 ft. above the sea-level), and then passes through a deep cutting. Tunnel. 114 Kil. (71 Falkoping (Jer'nvc'igs-Hotel, Rantens-Hotel, both at the station) is the junction for Jonkoping and Nassjo (R. 38). Halt of 10-15 minutes. The town, with 2000 inhab., lies 3/4 Engl. M. from the station. Margaret of Denmark defeated King Albert of Sweden here in 1389, and in consequence of this victory the three Scandinavian kingdoms were united by the Kalmar Union (p. 386). On the neighbouring Mo'sseberg (‘cap hill’; 82(2 ft.) is a hydro- pathic establishment. This hill and the adjacent Alleberg resemble the Kinnekulle_( see below) in formation. The upper part con- sists of trap-rock. _ 129 Kil. (80 M.) Stenstorp is the junction of a branch-line to the W. to Lidkoping on Lake Venern, and of another to the E. to Hjo on Lake-Vettern. F120): STENS'DORP T0 HJO, 38 Kil. (231/2 Engl. M.), railway in 2% hrs. (fares 2kr. 35, 1kr. 606.; no first class). Stations: Dala, Svensbro (branch-line to Ekedalen and Tidaholm), Vreten, Fm'dened, Korsberga, Mofalla. - H30 (Jernviz'gs-Hotel; Gdstgi‘fvaregfird; Stadskéillare), a town with 14(1) inhab., is charmingly situated on Lake Vettern, in a district known as Guld- BAEDEKER’S Norway and Sweden. 2nd Edit. 19 .290 Route 37. LIDKOPING. From Gothenburg kroken (‘golden corner‘). Several large estates in the vicinity. Steamboat .once weekly to Stockholm via Vadstena, Motala, and the canal-route, and once weekly to these stations and Jonkoping. On the 0 posite bank lies .Ha'slholmen, a steamboat-station, with the Omberg (p. 265:, boat 5 kr.). FRoM S'rnns'ronr 'ro LIDKSPING, 50Kil. (31 Engl. M.), railway in 2% hrs. (3 kr. 50, 2 kr. 25 6.; no first class). The train crosses the Brunhemsberg, between the Hornborgasjd and the Billingen, and traverses the Axeoalla Heath, the largest military exercising-ground in Sweden. 10 Kil. Broade- lorp. About 6 Kil. to the E. of (20 Kil.) Axvall, near the ‘skjuts-station‘ Klostrel, at the base of Billingen, stands the interesting Varnhemskg/rlca, a Gothic monastery-church containing tombs of early Swedish kings. 28 Kil. (17 M.) Skara (Gdstgifvaregdrd; Sladska'llare), once a famous episcopal town, mentioned by Adam of Bremen, now with 2900 inhab., was anciently a great stronghold of Swedish paganism. The Cathedral was consecrated by Bishop Odgrim im 1151.. The exterior, which has been sadly disfigured, is poorly restored, but the interior is still very fine. It contains a monument to Erik Soop, who saved the life of Gustavus Adolphus at the battle of Stuhm (in W. Prussia) in 1629. Near Skara are Gudhem and Husaby on the Kinnekulle, where sacrifices used to be offered. To the N. of the town is the mineral spring of Lund. 50 Kil. (31 M.)Lidkbping (*Hotel Lidko'ping; Svea, carriages to the Kinne~ kulle), a town on the Lidanelf and Lake Venern, with 4200 inhab., rebuilt after several fires, is the starting-point for a visit to the Kinnekulle. We may reach this range of hills either by driving to (16 Kil.) Veslerjglana, whence a road crosses the hill t0(16Ki1.)F01'shem, Osterc'ing, Arna's, Sjo'berg, (18 Kil.) Bjb'rsdter, and Mariestad (p. 291); or we may take the steamboat (or a sailing-boat) to Hellekis, from which Lukastorp (plain inn), situated near the highest point, is 1/2 hr. distant. The Kinnekulle is one of the most interesting hills in Sweden, both geologically and in point of scenery. It occupies an isolated posi- tion between Lake Venern on the W. and the plains of W. Gotland on the E., and is about 12 Eng]. M. long and 5 M. broad. It boasts of forests, valleys, bold cliffs (klefvor, a word used by the Norwegians also), rich pastures, and numerous farms and hamlets, forming quite a little world of its own, and the vegetation is unusually luxuriant, apple and cherry- trees growing wild here. The hills rise gently in the form of different terraces, each of which generally marks a different geological formation. The rocks consist of granite, sandstone, alum-slate, limestone, clay-slate, and lastly trap at the top, which has forced its way in a liquid condi- tion through all the strata below it. This range of hills contains numerous grottoes, the finest being the Morkeklef, near Rdbeck, in which there is a clear spring. The parishes of Vesler, Cster, and Medel- Plana, and parts of those of Klefva and Husaby lie in this region. On the W. side are the loftily situated Rabeck, Blomberg, Hjelmsdter, and Helleln's, with its extensive quarries; on the N. side are Ho'nsc'iter and other villages; and on the S. side Husabykg/rka (10 Kil. from Lidkoping), the most ancient cathedral-church in Sweden. A fine view of the bold and picturesque hills is obtained here. Ho'gkullen (771 ft. above Lake Venern, 916 ft. above the sea-level), the highest point, commands an uninterrupted view of the lake and Vester-Gotland. Conspicuous fea— tures in the landscape are the Kallandso (with the chateau of Lecko), Lipilgjping, Mariestad, and the hills to the S. (Billingen, Mosseberg, and e erg). STEAMBOAT from Lidkoping to Venersborg and to Christinehamn and Karlstad (p. 307) twice weekly. -— RAILWAY to Lofvene, Hjerpe‘is, and Ht‘ilcantorp (28 Kil., in 11/2 hr.), and on to Venersborg and Herrljunga (Gothenburg), see pp. 289, 288 Beyond Stenstorp the structure of the line is an object of in- terest, and fine views are enjoyed towards the E. -— 139 Kil. Skultorp. 145 Kil. (90 Skbfde (Jern'va'gs-Hotel; Gc’istgifvaregdrd), an w Stockholm. HALLSBERG. 37. Route. 291 old town with 2600 inhab., prettily situated at the foot of Billingen, has a water-cure establishment which attracts visitors. FROM SKoFDE T0 KARLSBORG,_4/1 Kil. (27 Engl. M.), in 1% hr. (fares 3 kr. 10, 2 kr. 35, 1kr. 55 6.), via Igelslorp, Tibro, Fagersanna, and Mo'll- lorp. —— Karlsborg (*Johansson‘s Inn), the only fortress in the interior of Sweden, was founded in 1820 as a rallying-point and refuge in case of hostile invasion, but is still uncompleted. It is beautifully situated on the Vana's, a promontory projecting into Lake Vettern , at the extremity of which stands a royal pavilion. A new harbour has been constructed between the Lt'ndo' and the Puko‘. On the Botlensjo', an arm of Lake Vettern to the W., rises the Vaberg, commanding a fine view of the lake. Karlsborg lies at the E. end of the W. half of the Go'ta Canal (see p. 298). Steamers bound for Gothenburg leave Lake Vettern here, touching at Ro'desu-nd, traverse the Bottensjb', and ascend by a lock to the lake of Viken, the highest sheet of water on the Got-a route, lying about 300 ft. above the sea-level. At the end of the lake the steamer regains the Got-a Canal through another lock. In 5 hrs. after leaving Rodesund the steamer reaches the railway and steamboat station of To'reboda (see below). From Toreboda the steamer takes 7 hrs. to reach Lake Venern and 10 hrs. more to reach Venersborg (p. 287). 160 (99 Wiring; 167 Kil Tidan. To the left a view of Lake Osten and the fertile plain of Vadsbo. 171 Kil. Moholm. BRANCH LINE (in 1 hr. 8 min.; 1 kr. 5O 6., 1 kr.) to Seckestad, Jula, and Hariestad (Stads-Hotel), prettily situated at the influxo of the Tidan into Lake Venern. Steamboat weekly to Lidkoping, to Amal, and to Christinehamn and Karlstad. — Excursion to the Kinnekulle, see p. 290. 184 Kil. (114M.) Tfireboda. (JernvEigs-Hotel; Gc'istgifvaregard), where the train crosses the Go'ta Canal (see above), is a rapidly increasing place. The train next traverses Tivedcn, a dreary forest- clad region, famed in the military annals of Sweden. 198 Kil. (123 Elgaras; 215 Kil. Finne'ro'dja. To the left we obtain an extensive view of the Skagern-Sjo. The train then passes the lake and village of Bodarne on the right. ‘229 Kil. (142 Laxi. The railway to Charlottenberg and Christiania diverges here to the left (see R. 41). — About 4.- Engl. M. to the N. is Porla, a small watering-place. ‘Z44 Kil. Vretstorp; to the N. rises the Kilsberg. 259 Kil. (160 Hallsberg (*Rail. Restaurant; Jernvc'igs- Hotel; Ga'stgifoaregard) is an important station , being the junc- tion for éw'ebro to the N. (p. 388) and Motala (p. ‘297) to the S. ; stoppage of 10-20 minutes. Beyond Hallsberg the train commands a fine view of the plain of Nerz'ke. — ‘272 Kil. Pdlsboda, whence a narrow-gauge line runs via Svennevad to (31/4 hrs.) Finspong, from which a steamer runs on Lake Glan to Eksund, near Norrkoping (p.__30-l). ‘284 Kil. K ilsmo lies picturesquely on Lake Sottem, in the Orebro—L'an. ‘294 Kil. Hiigsjo. 303 Kil. Vingé’zlcer, a pretty place, is the central point of the district of that name, the inhabitants of which are a handsome race, remarkable for their picturesque costumes (now rapidly dis- appearing) and their love of travel. (See ‘Svenska Folket, Taflor af J. W. Walander’.) Farther on, the train passes Sc'ifstaholm (the chateau of which contains good paintings by Swedish masters, 19"‘ ‘292 Route 37. KATRINEHOLM. a sculpture of Adonis and Cupid by Bystrdm, a Mercury by Fogel- berg, etc), Viren, the Kolsnar (nar, flake’), and the Na'snar, with the chateau of Sjiiholm. 316 Kil. Baggetorp. 324 Kil. (201 Katrineholm (*Rail. Restaurant) is the junction for Norrkiiping, Mjolby, Nassjii, and Malmd (RR. 40, 52). In the vicinity are the estates of Stora Djulii and Claesto'rp, with marble-polishing works, of the products of which there is an ex- hibition at Katrineholm. The train now traverses the picturesque district of Sb'derman- land, with its extensive forests and numerous lakes (which last have given rise to the saying that ‘in Sodermanland the Creator omitted to separate the land from the water’), and passes a number of large chateaux belonging to the Swedish aristocracy. 334 Kil. Valla; 346 Kil. Flen, with the chateau of Stenhammar on the Val— demaren (or Vammeln) Lake. From Flen to Eskilstuna, see p. 349. 361 Kil. (224 M Sparreholm, with the estate of that name, a favourite Sunday resort of the Stockholmers. 373 Kil. Stjernhof, 382 Kil. Bjii'rnlunda, 391 Kil. Gnesta, beyond which we pass the picturesque Fr'o'sjo' or Lake Frustuna and Lake Sillen. l— From Gnesta an interesting excursion may be taken to the S.E. to the chateau of Tullgarn, near Aby, at present the summer residence of the crown-prince of Sweden, and to Trosa (Stadtkallare), a small town on the Baltic, from which a steamboat plies to'Sodertelge and Stockholm. 398 Kil. (247 Mb'lnbo ,- 409 Kil. Jerna. 421 Kil. (261 Sodertelge Ofre, from which a short branch- line runs to (3/4 Engl. M .) the town of Sodertelge (Stadskallare), the first station on the canal-route from Stockholm to Gothen- burg (p. 301). The train crosses the Sddertelge Canal by a handsome draw- bridge or swing-bridge (sva'ngbro). The scenery here is pleasing, but soon loses its interest. 434 Kil. Tamba, with the large paper- manufactory of the Bank of Sweden. 443 Kil. Haddinge; 449 Kil. Elfsjo', beyond which is the Nybodao Tunnel (300 yds.); 453 Kil. Liljeholmen. The train crosses the Arsta-vz'k, a bay of the Malar, by means of an embankment (300 yds.), to the left of which is a bridge for the road, and beyond it the Reimersholm and Liifholm, while to the right is the sugar—manufactory of Tanto. We then pass the Sb'dra Station, where few of the trains stop, beyond which a tunnel, 470 yds. long, leads under the Sodermalm to the bank of the Malar. The train then crosses a bay of the Riddarfjarde, passes the Malartorg in Staden, skirts the E. side of the Riddar- holm, crosses another arm of the Riddarfjarde by an iron bridge 268 yds. long, and finally stops at the Central Station at the S.W. angle’- of the Norrmalm quarter. 408 Kil. (284 Stockholm, see p. 311. 293 38. From Falkoping via Jonkoping to Nassjo. 113 Kil. (70 Engl. M.). RAILWAY (Sodra-Stambana) in 31/2-7 hrs. (fares 7 kr. 85, 5 kr. 90, 3 kr. 95 6.; express, 9 kr. 55, 6 kr. 75 6.). -- Views to the left. Accommodation for the night is better obtained at Jonkoping than at Nassjo. Falkoping Station, see p. ‘289. The train stops again at Fal- ko'pz'ng Stad, 1 Kil. from the starting-point. The next station is (10 Kil.) Vartofta, the junction fgr Ulricehamn, a town with 1100 inhab. at the N. end of Lake Asunden (reached by a narrow- gauge line in ‘2 hrs., fares 2 kr. 80, 1 kr. 75') 6.). The train crosses the long Lake Strdken by means of an embankment 420 yds. in length. Several unimportant stations. At (50 Kil.) Habo the train reaches Lake Vettern and in clear weather commands a view of the Visz'ngso and (irenna in the distance. Beyond [56 Kil.) Banker-yd we reach — 69 Kil. (43 Eng]. Jonkoping (*Stora Hotellet, t0 the E. of the station, with a garden, one of the best hotels in Sweden ; Lund- berg’s, in the town), the capital of Gotland, a town with 15,680 inhab. , charmingly situated between Lake Vettern and the Munksjo', which are connected by a canal. Beautiful promenades extend southwards from the station to the Munksjo. To the E., beyond the canal, stands the Grand Hotel. In the centre of the S. part of the promenades, in front of the new Elementarlc'iro'ue'rkshus (elementary school), rises the handsome *Bolinderska Fountain. The Kyrko- gatan, at the back of the Elementarlaroverkshus leads S. to the beautiful gardens of Stora Limugnen, a restaurant picturesquely situated on the Munksjo. Beyond Stora Limugnen is the Munksjd Papperbruk, which exports a kind of roofing-pasteboard and dif- ferent kinds of paper to S. America. The town possesses several other manufactories. To the W. of the railway-station lies the famous Match Manu- factory Lnot shown to the public), the produce of which (‘tand- stickor utan svafvel och fosfor’) is met with in every part of Europe. The Vestra Storgatan passes the S. side of the match factory and leads to the Dunkehallar, a hill commanding a beautiful view and studded with numerous villas. _A pleasant walk may be taken to the E., along Lake Vettern, to Ostra Kapeltet. EXUURSIONS. The Taberg (1096 ft.), with famous iron-mines, 10 Kil. to the S. of the town, commands a noble survey of the forests of Sma- land. — Another interesting point is *Husqvarna, 8 Kil. to the E., with its manufactories and the waterfalls of the Husqvarnafi, the finest of which is near the inn and is reached by passing through the garden of the ‘disponent’ (factory-manager). Magnificent view of Lake Vettern, especially by evening light. As it leaves Jonkoping the train commands tine retrospective views of the town and the lake. It gradually ascends, and affords a view of the Huoqvama Waterfalls (see above) to the left. 86-Kil. Tenhult; 97 Kil. Forserum. Then -- 113 an. (70 M.) Name, see p‘. 301. 294 39. From Jonkoping to Stockholm by Lake Vettern and the Gota Canal. STEAMBOAT from Jonkoping to Stockholm, via Vadstena, Motala, Nors- holm, So'derkoping, and So‘dertelge, thrice weekly, starting on Tues., Thurs, and Sat. (from Stockholm on Mon., Wed., and Frid.). The pas- sage takes 36 hrs. (fares 16 or 11 kr.); to Norsholm 15 hrs. (9 or 7 kr.). As the Stockholm steamer passes Lake Vettern at night, it is advisable to take a. Lake Vettern steamboat (starting on Wed. and Sat.) to Vadstena and Motala, and then go on by the Jonkopz'ng-Stockholm or the Gothen— burg-Stockholm steamer (2-3 times a week). — The scenery of the Gota Canal is interesting between Motala and Berg only, and it is by no means desirable to go by the canal all the way to Stockholm (comp. p. 298). The best plan is to leave the canal at Berg (to visit Linkoping) or at Norsholm, and take the train to Now-‘roping (it. 40), whence we may either proceed via Katrineholm (p. 292) or by the direct ‘night boat“ (p. 301) to Stockholm. The traveller should bear in mind that the canal boats are frequently late, and often fail to make communication with the trains. a. Lake Vettern. *Lake Vettern (290 ft.), the most beautiful of the great lakes of S. Sweden, is about 80 Engl. M. in length and averages 12 M. in breadth. The peasantry on its shore believe that it is connected by a subterranean channel with the Lake of Geneva and even with the Black Sea. Like Lake Venern, it forms a large inland sea, into which numerous rivers empty themselves, while the M otalastrom forms its only outlet. Although less extensive than the sister—lake, it is even more liable to sudden storms which endanger the navigation, and on both lakes the miseries of sea- sickness are often experienced. The banks of the lake are on the whole far more picturesque than those of Lake Venern, and the water is exquisitely clear. Among the hills on its banks the Va- berg on the W. bank and the Omberg opposite to it are conspicu- ous, each rising about 580 ft. above the lake. The finest points on the lake are the Karlsborg and Hjo 291, 289), on the W. bank; the Visingso, a picturesque island towards the S. end; Jon- Iciipz'ng, at the S. end ; and Grenna, Hiistholme'n, with the Omberg, and Vadste'na on the E. bank. At the N. end the banks are flat and uninteresting. The lake is connected by the Gota Canal with Lake Venern and the Kattegat. About 2 hrs. after leaving J onkoping the steamer reaches the beautifully situated town of — Grenna (Gt‘istgifvaregi’zrd), with 1400 inhab., founded by Gount Per Brahe in 1652. The ruined castle of Brahehus, to the N. of the town , commands an admirable view. - From Grenna a visit may be paid by steamer or small boat to the *Visingso (Inn), an island, about 10 Engl. M. long and 2 Engl. M. broad, once the property of the powerful Counts of Brahe, and now a royal domain (kungstadugz‘ird). The picturesque ruin of Visingsborg, the an- cient castle of the counts, is on the E. bank, surrounded with fine timber. In the 17th cent. Count Per Brahe founded a grammar- HASTHOLMEN. 39. Route. 295 school and a library here, which were closed in 1811. The. Church, completed in 1636, is an interesting edifice, containing monu- ments of Count Per and his wife. The island is fertile and well cultivated, and contains an extensive Oak Plantation, the timber of which is used in the government dockyards, and numerous tine walnut-trees. At the bottom of the lake at the S. extremity of the island are a few scanty relics of the ancient castle of Na'sbo. Sev— eral kings of Sweden once resided in the island, including Mag- nus Ladulas, who died here in 1290. The road to the S. end of the island passes the interesting Gz'lbert’s Grotto. Beyond Grenna the steamer sometimes touches at (11/.2 hr.) Hjo (p. 289) on the W. bank, but usually steers to the N. to (2 hrs.) —- Hastholmen (Ga'stgifuaregc'trd), another charmingly situated spot on the E. bank of Lake Vettern, with a new harbour. At the back of the village lies the fertile ‘Plain of Vadstena’. The chief attraction here is the excursion to the Omberg and Alvastra, one of the most interesting in the southern half of Sweden. Boat with a rower who acts as guide 2-3 kr. ; a carriage may be ordered to convey the traveller back from Alvastra to Hastholmen. The whole excursion occupies 3-4 hours. Or the traveller may find it convenient to drive in the evening from Alvastra to Vadstena, ‘21 Engl. M. distant, via Nyby on the Takernsjo, or to Mjolby, a station on the main line, 25 Engl. M. from Hastholmen ; seep. 302. The *Omberg, the most interesting hill in S. Sweden next to the Kinnekulle (p. 290), begins a little to the N. of Hastholmen, extends for upwards of 9 Engl. M. along the bank of the lake, and is about 2 Engl. M. in breadth. Hjessan (‘the crown"), the highest point, rises at the S. end, near Hastholmen. 0n the side next the lake the Miikeberge (‘gull-hills’, 291 ft.), Elfverums Udde (‘promontory’), and the Rodgafoel (‘red gable’, 141 ft.) rise abruptly from the water, while the gently sloping E. side of the hill is furrowed with valleys and richly clothed with forest. The hill consists chiefly of gneiss and mica-slate, but transition lime- stone, clay slate, and sandstone also occur. This is the northern- most place in inland Sweden where the red beech (fagus sylvatica) thrives, but in Bohus L'ain it occurs as far north as 58° 30’ N. latitude. The S. end of the hill, with its red-roofed cottages, is the most picturesque part. A boat conveys the traveller into the *Riidgafvels Grotto, a cavern 66 ft. long and 29 ft. high, being the largest of a number of grottoes in the deeply furrowed cliffs here, which recall the coast of Capri. Landing near the grotto, the boatman guides travellers to the summit of *Hjessan (557 ft. above the lake, 845 ft. above the sea-level), the highest point of the Omberg, commanding a beauti- ful and extensive view, which in clear weather embraces six towns and fifty churches. The large lake to the N.E. is Takem. The 296 Route 39. VADSTENA. From Jonkoping flat stone on the top, once a tombstone, is now used as a table. We then descend through beautiful forest (crown property) to *Alvastra, named after Alfhild (Al/'hz'ldsstad, Al'vastra), the wife of King SverkerI. (d. 1156), the supposed foundress of a Bernar- dine Monastery here, the ruins of which are perhaps the most picturesque in Sweden. Kings Sverker 1., Charles VIL, Sver- ker IL, and John 1., and many other illustrious personages, are buried within its precincts. The church, dedicated to the Virgin, is in the form of a Latin cross. The nave and aisles and the choir are still traceable. The W. wall, like that of the choir, once con- tained a large window with rosettes and divided by a mullion. The whole building, which was constructed of limestone, was roofed with barrel-vaulting. After leaving Hastholmen the steamer skirts the perpendicular rocks of the Ornberg. At Rodgafvels Port the lake attains its greatest depth (410 ft.). Among the fantastically shaped rocks passed are Munlcen or Gr-akarlen (‘the monk’, ‘grey man’), Predz'k- stolen (‘the pulpit’), and Jungfr'an (‘the virgin’). Farther on, and visible from the deck of the steamboat, are the Vestra Va'ggar and Mullskra'erna, the An- Udde, and Borghamn, with its extensive quarries. The steamer now rounds a promontory and reaches (3 hrs. from Hostholmen) —— ‘ Vadstena. (Hotel Bellevue, near the harbour), the terminus of the branch-railway mentioned at p. 302. Vadstena, a town of ancient origin, with 2500 inhab., became a place of some im- portance after the foundation of the monastery of St. Birgitta in 1383, around which it is built. The monastery was suppressed in 1595, and is now a lunatic asylum. The *Monastery Church, erected in 1395-1424, called the Blakyrha from the colour of its stone and by way of contrast to the brick Rodhyrka, is worthy of a visit. It contains a monument to Duke Magnus and others of interest. The floor is paved with tombstones, bearing the Runic characters which formed the cognisance (boma'rke, oapenma'rke, skoldma'rke) of the deceased. Queens Philippa and Katarina are also interred here. The sacristy contains the remains of St. vBir- gitta and her daughter St. Katerina, which are preserved in a reliquary covered with red velvet. A peculiarity of the church is that the choir is at the W. end. (The A'lockare lives near.) ——— A fine example of a Swedish castle of the 16th cent. is the *Vetters- borg, close to the lake and the harbour (the old moat), which was erected by Gustavus Vasa. The interior, which has been used successively as a school, a manufactory, and a store-house, is uninteresting. Auwindow is shown as that from which the insane Duke Magnus of Ostergotland, one of the sons of Gustavus Vase, threw himself into the lake, attracted, as he declared, by the songs of sirens. Finely vaulted chapel. Extensive view from the tower. --— After another hour the steamer touches at —- to Stockholm. GoTA CANAL. 39. Route. 297 Motala (Motala Hotel, Stortorget; Prins Karl, to the S. of the Storbro, with pleasant garden on the river; baths by the harbour), a town with 2000 inhab., prettily situated in park-like scenery on the Vc'tr/vz'k, at the efflux of the Motala from Lake Vettern. It lies about midway between Gothenburg and Stockholm, at the W. end of the eastern half of the Géita Canal (Ostgota Linie). The road to Skenige commands a fine view. A shady *Promenade leads on the bank of the canal to Motala Verkstad (see below). At Motala there is a ‘bestammande sluss’ or reservoir lock, used for the purpose of regulating the quantity of water in the canal. —— _ Travellers arriving at Motala from Jonkoping or Nassjo, and intending to proceed to Stockholm by the Giita Canal, are recom— mended to proceed .by steam-launch to Motala Verkstad and pass the night there in Fru Flodin’s Hotel. In this way they will have time to inspect the works, and visit Platen’s grave and the locks of Borenshult (comp. p. 298). The scenery resembles a park. Railway to Hallsoerg and Mjo'lby, see p. 302. About 10 Kil. to the N. of Motala is the favourite watering—place Modem‘, with chalybeate springs (Roda Ka'llan, Ho'gb'runnen, Amtrals- Icdllan, and Gustaf Adolfs Ka'llan). Fine view from Lusthusbacken. The most northerly town on Lake Vettern is Aske-rsund , with 1600 inhab. —— .Karlsborg and Hjo, on the W. bank, see pp.291, 289. b. Giita Canal. 0stg6ta Linie. The project of uniting the E. and 'W. coasts of Sweden by a water-highway, the greater part of which already existed in the navigable lakes Mc'ilaren, Hjelmaren, Vettern, and Venern, was first ventilated by Bishop Brask of Linkiiping in 1516, and was afterwards taken up by Gustavus Vasa and Charles IX, the latter of whom constructed the Karlsgraben at Venersborg. It was not, however, till the 18th cent. that the work was seriously taken in hand and an attempt made by the engineers Svedenborg and Polhem (1716), and afterwards, Viman (1753), to overcome the main obstacles to the success of the scheme by the construction of a system of locks and sluices at Karlsgraben and Trollhattan (comp. p. 287). In 1755 the principal part of the latter, the so-called Flottbergsdamm, was destroyed by floating timber, and the enter- prise was abandoned till1793, when a company was formed for the completion of the work. The old locks of Trollhattan were opened in 1800 (p. 287), and Lake Venern thus brought into com- munication with-‘the N. Sea for the first time. After the completion of the Trollhatta Canal in 1800, the task of connecting Lake Venern with the Baltic by a series of other canals still remained for the Swedish engineers to execute. Sur- veys had already been made for this purpose by Daniel Thunberg at the close of last century , but the plans were finally adjusted by Baron Baltzar con Platen, with the aid of Thomas Tel/‘0rd, an English engineer, in 1808. These other canals , connecting Lake 298 Route 39. com CANAL. F'rQ'm Jonkiiping- Venern with Lake Vettern , and the latter with the Baltic , were constructed in 12510-32 at a cost of about 5 million crowns. All the different parts of the Canal between Stockholm and Gothen- burg are collectively known as the Go'ra CANAL, though each part has a local name of its own. The section between Lakes Venern and Vettern is the Cote Canal par excellence or Vestgota Linie, while the section connecting the Vettern with the Baltic Sea is called the Ostgota Lim'e. Although other important systems of canals, such as the Striims- holms Canal (p.560) and the Dalslands Canal (p. 276), have been constructed in Sweden since the completion of the Gota Canal, yet the last still retains the chief place of interest on account of the picturesque scenery through which it leads. The prettiest part is the Ostgota Linie, while the Vestgota Linie and Lake Venern are somewhat monotonous and uninteresting. Most travellers will find it enough to travel by canal from Motala to Berg or Norsholm, the finest scenery of the route being comprised between these points. Travellers are recommended in no case to make the whole journey from Gothenburg to Stockholm by steamer (21/2 days), as they would find it extremely monotonous and tiresome. The steamers also leave much to be desired in point of comfort. STATISTICS. The total distance from the N. Sea to the Baltic by the canal-route is about 260 Engl. M. (to Venersborg 60, thence to Sjotorp 80, and from Sjotorp to Mem 120 Engl. M.). The artificial part of this water-way, including 74 locks in all, is about 56 Engl. M. in length. The highest points of the canal are at Tatorp and Motala, where it enters Lake Vettern, 300 ft. above the sea-level. The canal is 46 ft. wide at the bottom and 86 ft. on the surface, and is 10 ft. in depth. Four of the locks, called ‘bestammande slussar", are used for regulating the level of the water. The canal is crossed by upwards of 30bridges, and there are numerous sluices for the purpose of letting off the Water when repairs are necessary. About 7000 barges and small steamers ply between the N. Sea and Lake Venern, and about 3000 between Lake Venern and the Baltic annually. _ About 2 Engl. M. to the E. of Motala lies Motala Verkstad, an extensive and interesting establishment (1700 hands), com- prising iron-works and an engine-factory, founded in 1822, and the property of a company. Visitors are admitted. Professional men may apply to the director, for special information. The works are driven by a single water-wheel, which is turned by the water of the canal 38 ft. above it. In the Dufvedal, on the N. side of the works, is the simple tomb of Baron o. Platen (d. 1829), the chief engineer of the canal, whose son, the minister v. Platen (d. 1875), is also buried here. Immediately beyond the Verkstad are the five *Locks of Borenshult, by means of which vessels descend to the picturesque Lake Boren, 49 ft. lower. With the exception of the locks and waterfalls of Trollhattan, the most interesting part of the whole canal is that between Motala Verkstad and Berg on the Roxen. Travellers by steamboat from Lake Vettern should land at Motala to Stockholm. BERG. 39. Route. 299 and walk thence to Borenshult, for which they will have plenty of time while the steamer is passing the locks (1 hr.). There is, however, scarcely time for a visit to the Verkstad. *Lake Boren (237 ft.), 9 Engl M. long, and nearly 4 Engl. M. wide, the water of which is beautifully clear, is next traversed by the steamer. On the S. bank, near the church of Ekbyborna, is the estate of Ulfitsa, once the property of St. Birgitta (d. 1373) and her husband Ulf Gudmarsson. 0n the N. bank is the church of Krigsberg. In 2 hrs. after leaving Motala the steamer reaches — Husbyfjol, a pretty place, with an inn and another ‘bestam- mande sluss’, or regulating lock (p. 297). it then quits the lake and enters another reach of the canal, running on the S. side of the Motalastrom. The scenery continues to be picturesque and park- like in character. On the left is Kungs-Norrby, a royal domain, once the property of the Vasa family, and beyond it the Kanga- Norrby-Sjo, with which the canal runs nearly parallel. On the right is the beautiful village of Brunneby, with a church now used as a storehouse.v Between the canal and the lake we next observe Ljung, an estate and country-seat, with a manufactory of beetroot— sugar. Farther on are the iron-works of Jakobsland and the plea- sant estate of Brunneby, with alock, and a little beyond it are fifteen other looks at short intervals, by means of which the steamer de- scends about 120 ft. to Lake Rowena, In 3‘1/2 hrs. more we reach —— Berg, at the W. end of Lake Rowen, a sheet of water 17 Engl. M. long and 6 M. broad (106 ft.), of which it commands a fine view. As the steamer takes 2-3 hrs. to pass through the locks, passengers have ample time to visit the interesting V'reta Klosterkyrka. It once belonged to a monastery situated here, which was founded in the 12th cent., and where Ebba Lejonhufvud, Gustavus Vasa’s mother-in-law, who refused to abjure the Roman Catholic faith, died in 1549. The church, which has been almost entirely rebuilt since its original erection, contains monuments to Ring Inge (d. about 1123) and his queen Helena, restored by John III. (d. 1592), King Valdemar Byrgesson (d. 1302), and to several members of the Douglas family who entered the Swedish service. In the vicinity is Kungsbro, at the influx of the Motala into Lake Roxen, once the property of Gustavus Vasa. The most interesting part of the canal- route terminates here. Passengers may either proceed hence by the road to Linlcoping (p. 302), about 12 Kil. to the S.E., or go on by the steamer to Norsholm, and complete their journey to Stock- holm by railway (p. 303). On the hilly and wooded N. side of Lake Roxen is the ruined castle of Stjernarp , formerly the property of the Douglas family. The S. bank of the lake is flatter, but well cultivated and not unpicturesque. To the S.E., about 31/2 Engl. M. from the lake, and connected with it by a canal, is Linkiiping 302). — 1n 2 hrs. after leaving Berg we reach —- 300 Route 39. SODERKOPING. From G'othenburg' Norsholm, at the E. end of Lake Roxen, at the entrance to another part of the canal, which is crossed here by the Stockholm and Nassjo railway (R. 40). Passengers may disembark here and proceed by the night train to Stockholm. The Motala and the Gota Canal issue from Lake Roxen here, the former falling into Lake Glan, about 7 Engl. M. to the N. The steamer descends three locks, and at H'alta enters the narrow lake of Asplangen, 3 Engl. M. in length. At Sno'velstorp it quits the lake, passes the church of Vestra Hushy on the right, and next reaches the ‘regulating lock’ of Klt'imman. Farther on, the canal is carried at a considerable height above the surrounding country. Beyond Venneberga Bro we descend the four locks of Karlsborg and two more at Mariehof, and soon arrive at -— Siiderkdping (Hotel Go'talcanal), a town with 1800 inhab., and an important place in the 13th-16th centuries, when it boasted of a castle, two monasteries, and five churches. It lies on the Giita Canal and the once navigable Storeoz. The St. Lars and the Drothems Kyrha are now the only old buildings worthy of mention. The neighbouring Hydropathic Establishment attracts numerous Swedish visitors. The water is obtained from St. Ragnhild’s Kalla, where the vessels for drawing the water are of a kind peculiar to Sweden. Above the canal, on the N. side, rises the Ramundershéill. The steamer descends through a lock at Soderkoping and an- other at the foot of the hill just mentioned, and passes Liljesta on the right. About 3 Engl. M. from Soderkoping it reaches the last look, the 74th through which it has passed, Where a marble slab bears the inscription: ‘Om Herren icke byggerhuset, sc'r arbeta de fafa'ngt, som derpi’t bygga’ (except the Lord build the house, they labour but in vain that build it). At this point, the E. end of the Gota Canal, lies— Mom, on Sle'itbaken, a long and narrow bay of the Baltic, where the scenery again becomes more interesting. About 11 Engl. M. to the E. of Mom we pass the picturesque ruined castle of Stege- borg, once occupied by King Birger Magnusson (d. 1321). It was rebuilt on a larger scale by Gustavus Vasa (d. 1560), and here his son John III. (d. 1592) was born. The vessel then enters the Trannofja'rd at the mouth of the Slatbaken creek, and steers past Gottenvi/t, a pretty bay with wooded banks. Farther on, the steam- er’s course is partly on the open Baltic and partly through the monotonous skargard flanking the coast, where the intricate navi- gation requires the utmost attention of the pilot. About4 hrs. after quitting Soderkoping the steamer reaches —- . O-zrelosund, the terminus of the branch-railway to N'ykiiping and Flen (R. 44). The next point of interest, about 11 Engl. M. to the S. of Sodertelge, in a bay of the Baltic, is the handsome chateau of Hiirnin'gsholm, on the Miirkb', which occupies the site of an old castle to which many historical reminiscences attach. ‘to Stockholm. SODERTELGE. 39. Route. 301 It belonged to the famous family of Sture in the 15th and sub- sequent centuries, and afterwards to the families of Bauer and Ribbing. Christina Gyllenstjerna died here, and the daughter of one of the counts Sture was abducted hence by Eric Stenbock. In 1719 the old castle was burned down by the Russians, and the estates afterwards came into the possession of the Counts Bonde, by whom the present chateau was erected. — At the N. end of the bay in which the Mdrko is situated the steamboat enters the short Sddertelge Canal, connecting the Baltic with the small Lake Maren and Lake Mt'ilaren, to the level of which the steamboat ascends by means of a lock. The next station, 5 hrs. beyond Oxeliisund, is —- Sfidertelge (Stadskéillare), a town with about 3000 inhab., and a place of considerable antiquity, entirely destroyed by the Rus- sians in 1719. The church of St. Ragnhild is said to have been built by the queen of that name, the wife of King Inge the Younger, about the year 1100. The hydropathic establishment here attracts numerous visitors from Stockholm. ‘Kringlor’ (ring- shaped cakes) and ‘pepparkakor’ (gingerbread) form a specialty of the place. —— Several trains and steamboats to Stockholm daily. —— The steamboat trip hence to Stockholm traverses the beautiful scenery of Lake M'zilaren, which is seen to great advantage by early morning or late evening light. The boat plies at night. In 21/4 hrs. after quitting Sodertelge the steamer reaches --— Stockholm, see p. 311. 40. From Nassjo to 'Stockholm. 350 Kil. (217 Engl. M.). CSTRA STAMBANA to Katrt'neholm, and Vrzs'rna STAMBANA thence to Stockholm. Express in 9% hrs. (fare 29 kr. 75 6., 21 kr.). Ordinary train, passing the night on the way, 24 kr. 50, 18 kr. 110, 12 kr. 25 6. __ Before the completion of the Ostra Stambana, which reduced the distance between Stockholm and Malmo by about 50 Engl. M., the usual route from Malmo to Stockholm was via Jo'nko'pt'ng and Falko'ptng (RR. 38, 37). Those who prefer to spend a night on the way are recommended to take this old route instead of the direct journey via Nassjfi and Ka~ trineholm. Good quarters for the night may be obtained at Jonkiiping (comp. p. 378). Nissjfi (1013 ft.; Jernva'gs-Hotel, Na'ssjd Hotel), the highest railway—station in Sweden, is the junction for Jonko'ping (p. 293) and Oskarshamn (p. 388), and is situated on the direct railway from Malmii to Stockholm (see R. 52). The first part of the journey traverses the N. part of Smdland, the characteristic features of which are described at p. 378. Be- tween Gripenberg and Sommen lies Holaoeden, a hilly and wooded district separating Sme'tland from Ostergiitland. A. similar chain of hills called Kolm‘arden (p. 305), bounds Ostergdtland on the and divides it from Siidermanlan-d. The natural boundaries of Oster- giitland on the E. and W. are the Baltic Sea and Lake .Vettcrn, 302 Route 40. LINKCPING. , From Nr'issjb' The part of this province traversed by the railway is a fertile plain, containing the oldest towns in Sweden, the chateaux of the nobility, and numerous manufactories. 12 Kil. (71/2 Engl. Solberga; 18 Kil. Flisby; 24 Kil. Aneby, on the lake of that name. The train follows the course of the Scartd, which forms a series of lakes. The largest of these is Lake Sommen (1505 ft.), on which a steamer plies. 36 Kil. (221/2 M.) Frinna'ryd, on Lake Rdldngen , which con.- tains several floating islands (‘rb'rliga holmar’). Near (42 Kil.) Gripenberg is the large estate of that name, to the S. of which lies Traneryd. 52 Kil. Trands ; 64 Kil. Sommen. The train now crosses the Svartd, which here __forms several falls, and is the boundary between Smaland and Ostergiitland. Near Rockebro the train skirts the N. bay of the Sommen. 73 Kil. (45 M.) Borholm, with extensive iron-works. 78 Kil. Strc‘ilsm'is. The train gradually descends, passing several large estatesl —— 89 Kil. M jiilby (Inn), a busy little town with large mills. FROM MJoLBY TO HALLSBERG, 96 Kil. (591/2 Engl. M.), railway in 4-51/2 hrs. (fares 6 kr. 75, 5 kr. 5, 3 kr. 40 ——9 Kil. Skeninge (Grist- gvzfvareqct’m'den), with 1700 inhab., once the capital of Gotland, and famed for the ecclesiastical council (kyrkomb'tct) held here in 1248. Important cattle-fair in September. The so-called Law of Skeninge was very oppres- sive, and once formed the subject of a special petition in a litany used by the peasantry: -— ‘Fran Skenige réitt och Vadstena slot-t Bevara os milde Herre Gud!’ (From the law of Skenige and the castle of Vadstena, Good Lord deliver us !) 16 Kil. (10 M.) Fogelsta, whence a branch-line diverges to Vadstena (p. 296). 27 Kil. Motala. whence another short branch-line leads to Motala Verkstad (p. 298). 111 Kil. Karlsby; 48 Kil. Igegerc'n; 54 Kil. Godegfird; 66 Kil. Mariedam; 76 Kil. Skyllberg; 85 Kil. Asb-ro. 96 Kil. (591/2 M.) Hallsberg, see p. 291. 95 Kil. (59 Sya; 99 Kil. Mantorp. Near (109 Kil.) Banke- berg is the agricultural school of Haddorp. The line intersects a well-cultivated district, dotted with numerous churches. 121 Kil. (75 Linkiiping. -—-Hotels. *S'roRA HOTELLET, Stortorget; Lmnnnnne, Kungsgatan; new. DU Norm, Kungsgatan; DRUFVAN, Bok- hfillaregatan. “ Carriages may be hired of O. Ahlsti'bm, in the Skjutsbolag. To the locks of Berg and the Vreta Convent (p. 299), 11 Kil. Steamboat to Soderkiiping and Stockholm, once weekly, starting on Sun. morning. “ Linkiiping, the capital of Ostergbtland, with 8500 inhab., and the residence of the ‘Landshofding’ and the bishop, lies on the W. bank of the Sttingd, recently rendered navigable, and 31/2 Engl. M. from Lake Roxen (p. 299), by means of which it is thus connected with the Giita Canal. Linkiiping is a place of ancient origin. It was formerly called Liongakdpunger (‘town of the place of assize’), and possessed a cathedral and a bishop so far back as the 12th century. Municipal privileges were granted to the town by Gustavus Vasa. In 1598 Sigismund was defeated by Duke Charles 10 Stockholm. KINDA CANAL. 40. Route. 303 at the Stitngebro, and his adherents were afterwards executed at Linkoping in 1600 (the ‘Linkoping Blood-bath’), the place of execution being now marked by a circle of stones in the Jerntorg. On the Gampekulla, by the locks of Nyqvarn, a little below the town, stands a stone commemorating the battle of Stfingebro. The *DoMxYnKA, the finest edifice at Linkiiping, begun in 1150 and completed in 1499, is in the Romanesque style, with a Gothic choir. Next to the cathedral of Upsala, it is the longest church in Sweden 320 ft.). The vaulting is borne by ten hand- some pillars on each side. The choir-windows are filled with stained glass. The old Altar-piece, by Heemskerk (d. 1574), a Dutch master, purchased by John II. for 1200 measures (7500 cu- bic ft.) of wheat, now stands by the S. wall. Its place is occupied by a colossal figure of Christ, surrounded by Faith, Hope, and Charity, in plaster, by Bystro'm. The church was suitably restored in 1849-70. The verger lives in the vicinity. The Landsfo'rsamlz'ngens-Kyrka, or Church of the Estates, also known as the St. Larskyrka, contains pictures by Hb'rberg, a self- taught peasant artist, whose works are to be met with in various parts of Sweden. The Library in the old gymnasium contains a valuable collection of rare books, MSS., coins, and antiquities (Tues. and Sat., 11-1 ; at other times apply to the librarian, Ny- qvarnsgatan). —— Pleasant walks are afl’orded by the park of the Tradgardsfiirening, to the S. of the town (entrance in the Drott— ninggatan), and by the gardens of the old chateau. To the W. of the town lies the Cemetery (Griftegc‘ird). The Kinda Canal, 80 Kil. (50 Eng]. M.) in length, completed in 1871, connects Linktiping with several higher—lying lakes to ‘the S.: Erlangen (13/1ft. above the sea-level). on the N. bank of which lies the large estate of Sturefors; Rengen (273 ft.), with the estates of Sdby and Bro/rind; (then Jernlunden (277 ft. above the sea; 171 ft. above Lake Roxen); lastly Asun- den (about the same height), connected with the last by the Rimforsstro'm. The last steamboat-station is Horn (steamer three times a week). These lakes form different basins of the Stfiglga, and the ascent is effected by means of fifteen locks. To the S. of'Asunden are two other lakes tra- versed by the Stz'mgfi (Jattern and Kro'n), beyond which lies Vimmerby, in Smfiland (p. 388). The scenery is pleasing the whrgle way. Beyond Linktiping the train crosses the Stanga by a bridge 200 yds. long, and traverses a fertile tract with several churches. 132 Kil. Linghem; 139 Kil. Gistad. It then crosses the Gota Ca- nal (p. 300) by a curious swing-bridge , commanding a pleasant view of Lake Roxen. 145 Kil. (90 Norsholm lies at the efflux of the Gota Canal from Lake Roxen, and is also a steamboat-station (see p. 300). FROM NoRsnoLM 'ro Vns'rnnvrx, 118 Kil. (73 Engl. M.), railway in 8 hrs. (fares 8 kr. 85, 5 kr. 45 6.). — 5 Kil. Skdrkind; 10 Kil. Halleby; 13 Kil. Ringslorp; 17 Kil. Hofversby; 23 Kil. Bjo'rsiiter; 27 Kil. Lakm'k; 33 Kil. Bersbo. ' V42 Kil. (26 M.) ‘tvida'berg, with the most important Copper Mines in Sweden, a visit to which occupies one day. The bottom of the mine at Bersbo (1248 ft.) is reached by a small steam-car called a ‘dog’ in 6 minutes. The Mor'moregrw’va (‘grandmother's mine’), to the W. of 304 Route 40. NORRKGPING. Atvidaberg, is 1320 ft. deep. Among the interesting works which de- serve a. visit are the Bredbergska Hytla, the Vo'indrost-Hus, the Stora Hytla, the Raffinad-Hytla, the Kopparsmedja, and the Laboratory. In 1869 the yield reached 1315 tons, but it has diminished of late years. 51 Kil. (32 M.) Forsastro'm; 58 Kil. Fulcrum; 67 Kil. Nelhammar; 71 Kil. Storsjo'; 82 Kil. Ofoerum, with a foundry belonging to an English company; 94 Kil. Gamleby; 202 Kil. Almoz'k; 114 Kil. Jenny. 118 Kil. (73 M.) Vestervik (Hotel de Ville), an old town with 5500 inhab., situated at the entrance to the Gamlebyvtk and possessing large shipbuilding yards. It was repeatedly destroyed during the wars between the Danes and Swedes. Near the town is the ruined castle of Stéikeholm. -- Vestervik is about 60 Engl. M. from Visby on the island of Gotland, with which it has post-communication in winter over the ice. From Vestervik via Ankara-am to Hullsfred (7OKil. or 44M.), see p. 388. At (154 Kil.) Okna the train reaches Lake Glan, which it skirts to (159 Kil.) Eksund. (From Eksund a steamer plies to Finspong, with a cannon foundry, chateau, and park, whence a branch-railway runs to Pdlsboda, on the Vestra Stambana, p. 291.) Beyond Eksund the train crosses the Motala, the outlet of Lake Vettern (p. 294), and reaches (162 Kil.) Fisheby. Then —- 168 Kil. (104 Norrkiiping (*Central Hotel, with cafe; Stora Hotellet, Nya Hotellet, both in the Karl-Johans - Torg; Bellevue, Skeppsbron), a busy manufacturing and seaport town with 27,380 inhab., is picturesquely situated on the M otala, at its influx into the Brdvik. The town was founded in 1384 , but was plundered and burned down by the Danes in 1567 and by the Russians in 1719. Several diets of the estates have been held here, and among them that of 1604 at which Charles IX. was elected king. Gusta- vus IV. was crowned here in 1800. Owing to several great fires by which it has been visited , the town now presents an entirely modern and somewhat uninteresting appearance. The water-power afforded by the Motala, which flows through the whole town, is utilised by numerous manufactories. An interesting walk may be taken along the upper part of the river where the water dashes over rocks, turns a number of wheels, disappears among manufac— tory buildings, and re-appears to be immediately used for some new purpose. The principal *Bridges are the stone Bergsbro, con- structed in 1775; the Jernbro, or iron bridge, of 1832; the Oscar- Fredriksbro, adjoining the Karl-Johans-Torg(1837); and the iron Spdngbro, or foot-bridge (1863). Between the Bergsbro and the Jernbro are the Bruksholm and the Laxholm, islands which are also connected with the town by bridges. Visitors are admitted to some of the factories. Those who desire special information should apply to the manager. —- On the lower part of the river, where it subsides into a calm and navigable stream, there are also several large fac- tories, chiefly of cloth, worsted, and cotton goods, which have earned for Norrkiiping the title of the ‘Swedish Manchester’. Gamla Varfoet (‘the old wharf’) with its dock is an extensive establishment, and the Motala Varf, to the E. of the town, where cannon-boats and monitors are constructed, is particularly interesting. GHARLOTTENBERG. 41. Route. 305 The handsomest modern buildings are in or near the Karl- Johans- Torg, where the two principal hotels, the post-office, the town-hall, and the theatre are situated. It is embellished with a Statue of Charles K] V. John (Bernadotte), by Schwanthaler, erected in 1846. The Arbetare-Foreningens-Hus, containing a large hall and museum, is a very large edifice, and still more imposing is the Hogre Elementarta'roverkets-Hus (grammar and commercial school), on a height on the S.W. side of the town, erected in 1868 at a cost of 600,000 kr. _ Favourite places of recreation in the vicinity are Stromsholmen (*Restaurant), where concerts are frequently given, and the Stad- husgarden. _ \ The STEAMBOAT VOYAGE to or from Stockholm will be preferred by many to the train. The vessels (four times weekly) ply at flight, afford- ing a beautiful view of Lake Malaren on arriving or on starting. This route is also recommended to travellers intending to take the Got-a Canal route from Norsholm to Gothenburg, or to those who have arrived at Norsholm from Gothenburg, and is preferable to the steamboat-route between Stockholm and Norsholm via Soderko'ping. —- steamboats also ply from Norrkoping to Nyko'pt'ng once, and oto Kalmm' twice weekly. Beyond Norrkiiping and (176 Kil.) Aby the train traverses a wooded plateau , about 400 ft. in height, called Kolmc'irdert, the once dreaded frontier-region between Sodermanland and Oster- gotland, infested by robbers and outlaws. Near Ta'rdala it passes through a tunnel and then ascends gradually to (179 Kil.) Graf- versfors. Farther on it crosses the bays of the pretty lake of Nfickcn by means of embankments, and threads a larger tunnel. 191 Kil. Simonsto'rp (Inn), with the-lake of Flaten on the right. 205 Kil. Sta-Eingsjii. The scenery is uninteresting. 2917 Kil. (134 Katrineholm, and thence to Stockholm, see p. 2 2. 41. From Charlottenberg to Stockholm. 1132 Kil. (258 Eng]. M.). RAILWAY in 141/2-183/4 hrs. (fares 30 kr. 110, 22 kr. 35, 14 kr. 26.; express 36 kr. 406.). From Christiania to Char- lottenberg, see R. 32. —- Between Christiania and Stockholm there are two through-trains daily in 18% and 213/4 hrs., the latter allowing 3%; hrs. rest at Laxz‘i where rooms are fitted up at the station for the purpose (fares 46 kr. , 37 kr. 50, 22kr. 356.). The slower trains stop for the night at Kongsvinger, where the hotels are apt to be uncomfortably crowded. Comp. p. 272. At Charlottenberg (*Rail. Restaurant, D. 1% kr.), the first Swedish station, passengers to or from Stockholm change carriages. Travellers’ luggage entering Sweden undergoes a slight custom- house examination here, while that of travellers in the reverse direction is examined at Christiania. It will strike the traveller as somewhat absurd that these two little kingdoms, united under one sovereign, should have different tarifis of customs—dues. The railway from Charlottenberg to Laxfi (Nm'dvesto'a-Stambana) tra- verses the Vermland, a province where lakes and forests abound, and rich in iron and other ores. This once sequestered region has recently been opened up by anetwork of new railways and canals. The Vermland BAEn‘nKER‘s Norway and Sweden. 2nd Edit. 20 306 Route 41. ' ARVIKA. From Charlottenberg is famous as the birth-place of Tegnér and Ge-ijer, and its praises have been sung by Fry/well in his beautiful Vermlandsm'sa. The railway- traveller will see but little of the attractions of this district. An excursion is therefore recommended from Kil to Frykstad and the Fryken Lakes (see below). Another pleasant digression may be made from Christinehamn to the prettily-situated Fl'l'ipslad (p. 307). Leaving Charlottenberg, the train passes the B'y-Sjii on the right, and next stops at (15 Kil.) Amot on the Flagan-Sjo', where an extensive view is obtained. Pretty scenery. 25 kil. 0tteb0l. 34 Kil. (21 Engl. Arvika (Hotel Kristiania; Stadshuset; *Rail. Restaurant), with 1300 inhab., is beautifully situated on the Glafsfijord, here called the Elgdfjo'rd, which is connected with oLake Venern by means of the Scffle Canal. (Steamer to Seffle and Amiil six times, to Venersborg and Gothenburg once weekly.) This long stretch of water is interesting from the fact that it marks the ancient bed of the Glommen, which once fell into Lake Venern, but now turns to the W. at Kongsvinger (comp. p. 272). During the melt— ing of the snow, part of the water of the Glommen still finds its way into its old channel. In the vicinity is the ArvikaHelsobrunn (‘sanitary spring’). Several iron-works, glass-works, and other manufactories. On the E. bank of the fjord are the pleasant estates of Vik, Skiinoik, and Sand. Passing through several cuttings and a tunnel, the train next stops at (49 Kil.) Edane, beyond which it crosses the picturesque Vermelen-Sjo (180 ft.) by a viaduct, 700 yds. long, and 105 ft. above the water at the highest point, and passes through another tunnel. 56 Kil. Brunsberg, 66 Kil. Boda, 77 Kil. Fageri’ts. Scenery less attractive. The train crosses the Norself, the discharge of the Fryken Lakes, by means of an iron *Bridge, 565 ft. long and 63 ft. in height, resting on iron pillars and massive granite foundations, the construction of which was attended with great difficulty owing to the soft character of the alluvial soil. About 5 Kil. to the S. is the Edsvalla Bruk, from which a steamboat plies to Lake Venern. A little beyond this bridge the train reaches -— 82v Kil. (51 Kil (352 ft. ; Jern'véigs Hotel, R. 11/2, B. 1/2 kr., well spoken of ), the junction for the Gothenburg and Falun railway (R. 48), and of a short branch-line to Fryksta or Frykstad (9 min.), on the Nedre Fryken Lake (215 ft.). From Frykstad a pleasant excursion may be taken to the three "Fryken Lakes (Ned'r'e, Mellan, and Ofre Fry/ken). A steamboat leaves Frykstad three times a week in connection with the train from Kil, for Torsby-Bruk, at the N. end of the highest of the lakes, which it reaches in 5 hrs., return- ing on the following day. —- The Fryksdal, a valley 80-90 Kil. (50-55 Engl. M.) in length , is one of the most beautiful in Sweden, but the long steam- boat-journey to Torsby and back is rather fatiguing. It is preferable to land at Rottneros Bruit between the central and the upper lake, visit the Fall of the Rottnaelf, and proceed to Sunne (Hotel), another pretty place, where Anders Err/well (see above), a distinguished poet and author of tales from Swedish history, was once pastor. -— In the vicinity are several large iron-works, some of which belong to the Edsvalla Bruks Bolag (‘factory company’). — The scenery of Ofre or Norra Fryken is grander than that of the lower lakes. to Stockholm. KARLSTAD. 41. Route. 307 The next station is (95 Kil.) Share. Then — 102 Kil. (63 Karlstad (*Stadshotellet; Hotel Kristiania; Rail. Restaurant; restaurant and music at the Trc'idgcc’trdsforem'ng ,- Attkanten, a favourite resort to the S.E. of the town; post and tele- graph-office at the town-hall, in the Stora Torg), the capital of Vermland, with 6500 inhab., entirely rebuilt after a fire in July 1865, is picturesquely situated on the Tingvallaii, at the influx into Lake Venern of the Klarelf, which descends from the Norwegian mountains. This is a commercial place of considerable importance. The broad streets are flanked with handsome houses, and some of them are planted with trees. Among the chief buildings are the Gymnasium, the Frimurarloge, and the Stadshotel. Pleasant pro- menades in the environs. Steamboat thrice weekly to the principal places on Lake Venern, and to Gothenburg via Venersborg. , From Karlstad or from Kil a visit may be paid to the Valley of the Klarelf. The train may be taken to Deje (p. 360), a station on the Falun Railway (Bergslagernas-Bana), 10 Engl. M. above Kil, whence we proceed to Ransdter (the birthplace of Ge'ijer), and Uddeholm (p. 360), where the Elf- dal strictly so called begins. Beyond it the valley ascends into the most sequestered districts of Vermland and to the grand mountain-chain which separates Sweden from Norway. The last region in Sweden is the Finskog (‘forest of the Finns‘), inhabited by Finns who were established here in the reign of Charles IX., and who still differ from the Swedes in customs and physique. — Beyond the frontier the scenery becomes even wilder and more desolate, especially in the neighbourhood of the Fcemund-Sje (p. 205), the source of the Klarelf, which is at first called the Fcemundselv and afterwards the Trysstl. Comp. p. 205. The train new skirts the N. bank of the vast Lake Venern (p. 288), of which, however, little is seen, and passes over six long bridges and a number of embankments, the construction of which was very costly. 113 Kil. Skattka'rr, 125 Kil. Va'se, 134 Kil. Olme. 142 Kil. 88 Christinehamn (Jernoe'igs-Hotel; Societetshus; Ga'stgt'fvaregard), a small trading town, with 4000 inhab., lies on the Seartd and the Varnumsoik, a bay of Lake Venern. A famous fair , called the Fastnings—Marknad, takes place here annually in April. Steamboat twice weekly to Venersborg and Gothenburg. FRoM CHRISTINEHAMN 'ro Frmrs'ran, 62 Kil. (39 M.), railway in 2% hrs. (fares 4kr. 50, 2 kr. 45 6.). Stations: Na'ssundet, Slorfors, Nykroppa, Herrhult (junction for the Kil-Falun railway, p. 360), and Gammalkroppa. At Nyhyttan the railway forks, the right branch leading to Persberg on Lake Yngen, the left to Fc'lt'pstad (see p. 306). Beyond (154 Kil.) Bjb'rneborg the structure of the railway, which now skirts Lake Visman, is itself an object of interest. 165 Kil. Karlskoga, whence a branch-line runs to the N. to Nora (and thence to Dylta) and another to the S. to Gullspt‘tng and Otterba'cken on Lake Venern. 168 Kil. Degerfors, from which another branch-line runs to the N. to Vikersvik and Striberg. Between these lines lies Lake Miickeln. 180 Kil. S'vartcoz, 191 Kil. Hasselfors. The train now passes the baths of Porla Brunn, and reaches (203 Kil. or 126 M.) Lard (p. 291). From Lexi to (432 Kil. or 258 Engl. M.) Stockholm, see pp. 291, 292. 20* 308 42. _From Hallsberg to 0rebro, Koping, and Stockholm. 242 Kil. (150 Engl. M.). RAILWAY in 81/2-121/2 hrs., one through-train daily (fares 16 kr. 75, 12 kr. 85, 8 kr. 70 6.; express 17 kr. 15 6., 13 kr.). Travellers who have already seen the finest parts of the Giita Canal and Lake Vettern, described in R. 39, may with the aid of the railway described in the present route visit some of the most interesting points on Lake Malaren on their way to Stock- holm. From Motala (p. 297) they proceed by railway in 3-4 hrs. to Hallsberg, and thence to Kdping or Vesteras, from either of which the banks of Lake Malaren may be conveniently explored by steamboat. Or they may now confine their attention to the N. bank of that lake, leaving the more picturesque S. bank to be visited from Stockholm. The chief points of interest are best combined by taking the train to Vesteriis, crossing the lake thence by train to Eskilstuna, driving thence to Strengnas and Mariefred, and completing the journey to Stockholm by steamer (comp. R. 43). The railway traverses a fertile district and passes several of the oldest towns in Sweden, but the scenery is uninteresting until Lake Malaren is reached, and there it is preferable to quit the train. Hallsberg, see p. 291. '{‘he firstpimportant station is —— 25 Kil. (151/2 Engl. Orebro (Orebro Hotel; Bjb'rkegren’s), one of the most ancient towns in Sweden, with 10,500 inhab., men- tioned in history as early as the 11th century. No fewer than fifteen diets of the Estates were held here, and here the destinies of the country have frequently been decided. At theimportant diet of 1540 the succession to the crown, originally elective, was declared to be thenceforward hereditary, and in 1810 Bernadotte was elected crown-prince here. Orebro was the birthplace of Engelbrekt, a powerful Swedish noble, who was elected administrator of the Kingdom in 1435, and'who held the surrounding country as a fief of the crown. The town lies in a flat district, near the bank of Lake Hjelmaren, and is intersected by the Scarlet. It is now quite a modern-looking place, having been in great part rebuilt after a fire in 1854. The handsome Drottninggata traverses the town from N. to S. The handsomest edifice is the modern Gothic Town Hall (‘Stadshuset’), in the Stora Torg. In front of it rises Engelbrekt’s Statue by Qvarnstrt'im, erected in 1865. The Theatre, the principal Hotel, and the Karolinska Elementarla'rooerk (containing a small museum), are also handsome buildings. In front of the last rises an Obelisk to the memory of the brothers Claus and Laurentius Petri, the Swedish reformers. The only ancient buildings are the Castle (now occupied by public offices), with its four round towers, situated on an island in the river, and the Church, which has been partly modernised. The castle was once besieged by Engelbrekt, afterwards bySten Sture the Elder (d. 1503), and by Gustavus I. (d. 1560).’ It was then rebuilt by Gustavus, and completed by ARBOGA. 42. Route. 309 Charles IX. (d. 161 1). —- Pleasantwalks to Skeba'ck on LakeHjelmaren and to Adolfsberg, a small watering-place to the S., on the railway. From Crebro a STEAMBoA'r plies once weekly to Stockholm via the Hjelmare Canal. It first crosses Lake Hjelmaren (65 ft.; 46 Engl. M. long, 640 M. wide) and then proceeds through the Hjelmare Canal to the Arbogat‘t (see below), which it follows to Kungso'r, on Lake Malaren. Then by the last-named lake to Stockholm. - Lake Hjelmaren is destitute of pretty scenery, but its pikes and crabs are considered great delicacies. A monument has been erected on the Engelbrektsholm, in the W. part of the lake, on the spot where Engelbrekt was assassinated by Miins Bengt- son in 1436. Near the mouth of the canal is the chateau of Stora Standby, erected for Count de Gear in the early-English style by Robinson. Soon after leaving Orebro the train stops at (44 Kil. from Halls- berg) Ervalla-Dylta, where a branch-line diverges to Nora and Karlskoga on the Nordvestra Stambana (p. 307). 50 Kil. (31 Friivi is the junction of an important line to Ludvika. FROM Fntivr 'ro LUDVIKA, 98 Kil. (61 Engl. M.), railway in 5% hrs. (fares 7 kr. 35, 5 kr. 40, 3 kr. 70 6.). This railway traverses a very rich mining-district (iron, copper, lead). The scenery between Linde and Kop- parberg is picturesque. — 10 Kil. Vedevfig. 19 Kil. (12 M.) Linde (Hotellet), with 1500 inhab., is prettily situated between the two lakes of that name. Church and a great part of the town l'rebuilt after a fire in 1869. The train then skirts the E. bank of Lake Rossvalen to Gusselby, Storiz’ (whence a branch-line diverges to the silver-mines of Guldsmedshyttan), Vasselhyttan, Riz'llséi, and Bc‘ingbro (branch to Béinghammar, Ko‘lsjo'n, and Kloten). 55 Kil. (34 M.) Kopparberg (Ho- tellet) is an important mining place, with copper, lead, and zinc-mines in the vicinity. 63 Kil. Stdlldalen, where the line crosses the Bergsla- gernas-Bana (R. 48), with which it afterwards runs nearly parallel to Ludvika. The next stations are Stdltberg, Ho'rk, Grdngesberg, Bjorn- hyttan, and Gonds. Then — 98 Kil. (61 M.) Ludvika, see p. 360. 55 Kil. Ullersa'ter, 65 Kil. Fellingsbro, 75 Kil. Jc'iders Bmk. 79 Kil. (49 Arboga (Hoteltet; Ga'stgifvaregdrd), a town with 3600 inhab., was anciently a place of much importance. Thirty-two diets of the Estates have been held here at different periods. At one of these, in 1435. Engelbrekt, and at another, in 1471, Sten Sture the Elder, were chosen administrators. In 1561 the important Articles of Arboga were passed at another diet here. Arboga has frequently been a residence of the Swedish kings, and in the time of Gustavus Vasa had a mint of its own. It is now an uninteresting modernised place. By means of the navigable Arbogad, on which the town lies, and the Hjelmare Canal, Lakes Hjelmaren and Malaren are connected. —- Steamboat to Stockholm twice weekly. 87 Kil. Valskog is the junction for Thorshalla and Eskilstuna (see p. 348). 96 Kil. (591 2 Kiiping (Jemva'gs-Hotel; Kiipings-Hotel), a town with 200 inhab., lies on the river of the same name, near Lake M'alaren. Steamboats to Stockholm daily. As the railway- journey on the N. bank of the lake is uninteresting, many travel- lers will prefer to proceed by steamer from Ktiping to Thorshalla 310 Route 42. VESTERAS. and Strengnas, drive to Mariefred, and take another steamer thence to Stockholm. With regard to the lake and the principal places on its banks, see R. 43. -— About 1 Engl. M. from Kdping is Johannisdal, a small watering-place. Branch-line from Kdping to the N .W. to (34 Kil.) Uttersberg, passing a number of considerable iron works and factories. 106 Kil. Munktorp. 112 Kil.‘ K olbc'ick, where the train crosses the Striimsholm Canal (p. 360), is the junction for the Rekarne and Eskilstuna line (p. 348), the first station of which is (8 Kil.) Striimsholm, at the beginning of the canal. 121 Kil. Dingtuna. 131 Kil. (81 Vesterds (Hotel Kraak; Hotel Vesterds; G678!— gifoaregcotrd), with 5500 inhab., the capital of a district and an epis- scopal see. The name is a contraction of Vestrajiros (‘W. mouth’), a title given to the place to distinguish it from Ostra Aros (Upsala). It was anciently a town of considerable importance and possessed a Dominican monastery and several churches and chapels. No fewer than eleven national diets were held here, the most important being that of 1527, which suppressed the Roman Catholic church in Sweden, and that of 1844, which settled the succession to the throne on Vasa’s heirs. The principal edifice is the handsome Gothic *Cathed'ral, founded in the 11th cent., enlarged by Birger Jarl and consecrated anew in 1271, afterwards frequently altered, and finally restored in 1850-60. The tower, added in the 18th cent., is the highest in Sweden (310 ft.). The altar-piece was presented by Sten Sture the Younger and Christina Gyllenstjerna, his wife. Svante Sture, the administrator (d. 1512), and Eric XIV. (d. 1577) lie buried here. A marble sarcophagus was erected in memory of' the latter by Gustavus III. The tomb of the regent Magnus Brahe is marked by a marble monument. The Episcopal Library of‘ 12,000 vols. includes that of the Elector of Mayence brought from Germany by Oxenstjerna and presented to the ca- thedral' about the year 1640. — The old Slott, on a height near the mouth of the stream, once belonged to Jiisse Erikson, a robber- knight, and the terror of the district, but about the middle of the 16th cent.-~ was taken by Gustavus I., who restored and extended it. It was afterwards the prison of Eric XIV., who was poisoned at Crbyhus (p. 358) in 1577. In the 17th cent. it was entirely re— er'ected after a fire, and it is now the district seat of government. — The Vasa Park, to the E. of the Town Hall, occupies the site of the monastery and contains a bust of Vasa in memory of the diet of 1527. — The cucumbers and other vegetables grown at Vesteras enjoy a considerable reputation. 141 Kil. Tillberga is the junction of branch-lines to the N. to (28 Kil.) Sala (p. 365), and to the W., via (28 Kil.) Ramnc'is and Engelsberg on the Striimsholms Canal (see p. 361), to (68 Kil.) Kc'irrgrufvan and Krylbo (p. 365). -— 147 Kil. Tortuna, 154 Kil. Orresta, 160 Kil. Lundby. . STOGKHOLM. 43. Route. 311 168 Kil. (84 Enkiiping (Stadshotellet), a town with 2100 inhab., lies on the river of the same name, 4 Engl. M. from Lake Malaren. Pretty scenery and numerous market-gardens here. Steamboat to Stockholm three times weekly. -—-~ 178 Kil. Grillby. 180 Kil. Ekolsund, beyond which the train crosses the Elcolsunds- ‘oil; by a bridge 300 yds. long. 195 Kil. Bc‘ilsta, 206 Kil. Bro, 214 Kil. K'ungsiingen. The train now crosses the long northern ramification of Lake Malaren at a narrow part of it called Stc'iket. } 225 Kil. Jakobsberg, 231 Kil. Spfmga, 236 Kil. Sundbybergjj’: . . 242 Kil. (150 M.) Stock lm‘wéee below? ,. __ a‘? » . m. may ‘c, . J" “_ p 43. Stock 0 m and 1 s nvironst’rr ‘5a ,1. Arrival. Travellers arriving at Stockholm by railway alight at the CENTRAL STATION (Pl. C, 3, ll), situated in a large open space facing the Klara—Strand-Gata, and about 7 minutes’ walk from the Norrbro and the principal hotels. Omnibuses from the principal hotels meet each train (fare 75 6.). Cab with one horse for 1-2 persons 1 kr., 3-4 persons 1 kr. 25 ; each trunk 20 6., for three or more 506. (at night, 11-6 o’clock, one fare and a half). Porterage for each package to or from the cab or omnibus 106.; to one of the hotels — Those who arrive by the lake route from Gothenburg, or by a coasting steamer from the 8., land at the RIDDARHOLM QUAY (Pl. I), 5), on the W. side of the Riddarholm, near the church of that name; while the usual landing-place for travellers from the N. or is the SKEPPSBRO (Pl. E, F, 4, 5), on the E. side of Staden. Cab-fare as above; no hotel-omnibuses on the quays. Hotels. *GRAND HOTEL (Pl. a; E,F,3), Blasieholms-Hamnen. a very large and handsome building, with reading-room, telegraph office, etc., beautifully situated, and commanding a fine view of the Palace and the busy traffic of the quays and harbour; *RYDBERG (Pl. b; D, F, 11), Gustaf-Adolfs— Torget, facing the Norrbro, also Well situated and more central, but better adapted for men of business. These hotels belong to the same proprietor. The charges at the former are somewhat higher (rooms at both from 2kr. upwards., A. 50 and 356., L. 706., B. 1 kr.). Both also have good restaurants, that at the Rydberg being the better and slightly less ex- pensive. Travellers are quite at liberty to take their meals where they please. Table d‘h6te at the Grand Hotel in summer only. — $H6TEL KUNG KARL (Pl. c; D, 3), at the S. end of the Brunkebergs Torg, central. not far from the Norrbro, R. from 1 kr. 50 6., A. 35 6., with an excellent restaurant attached. —— GERMANIA (Pl. d“; E, 3), adjoining Rydberg, Gustaf- Adolfs-Torget, with restaurant, chiefly frequented by commercial men; *‘KUNG KARLS ANNEX, Regerings-Gatan 13, R. from 1 kr. 50 6.; KANAN', Brunkebergs-Torget 16; H6TEL DE SUEDE, Drottning-Gatan 43; ROSENBAD, Akademi-Granden (Pl. D. 4), near the Post Office, quiet (no restaurant). All these last are second-class. —— Invthe Norra Smedjegata (Pl. D, 3), at the back of Rydberg, in a quiet and convenient situation : H6'rELs GUSTAF VASA, DE FRANCE, S'rn'r'rm, SKANDINAVIA, and H6'rEL GARNI, all unpre- tending, but tolerable. Restaurants. .N. Side of the City (‘5. Norr’): *Rydberg and *Kung Karl are the best, and the charges are reasonable; Grand Hotel, fairly good, but more expensive; *Phwm'x, Drottning-Gatan 71, adjoining the Northern Museum ( . 324); Hotel du Nord, Lilla Tradgfirds-Gatan, near the Dra- matiska 'Igzater; *Opera Kiillaren. in the Stora Teater (p. 323), entered from the Arsenals-Gata; Strb‘msborg, on the island between the new bridge and the railway-bridge (reached from the latter, or by ferry), see p. 322. -- In Staden (the island forming the central quarter of the city. p.317): Iduna. Lilla Nygatan 4; Rosengrerfs Kiillm'e, Salvii-Gritnden, small; Skomakare-Kdllaren. Slottsbacken 6. -— B’. Side of the City (‘5866a’): Pclikanen, Brunnsbacken 4'; Mosebacke, in the market‘ ofv that name, a ' VA‘ 312 Route 43. srooKHoLM. Cafes. fine point of view (see p. 337). - In the Djurgdrd (p. 338): *Hasselbacken (music in the afternoon; D. 4 kr., good), Alhambra, both much frequented in summer, with gardens where visitors may dine in the open air. -- Most of the restaurants in the environs (Drottningholm, Nacka, Ulriks- dal, etc.) are poor. At all these restaurants visitors breakfast and dine a la carte, and the charges vary greatly. The usual breakfast hours are between 9 and 12, the dinner hours between 2 and 6, and the supper hours from 7 to 10 o’clock. An ordinary breakfast or supper costs 1 2-2 kr., and dinner 2kr. or upwards. For the ‘Brdnnoinsbord‘ or ‘Smo'rgt‘isbord’ (side-table with bread-and—butter, salt meats, fish, and various relishes, with ‘brann- vin’ and liqueurs ‘ad libitum‘), which Swedish gentlemen and even ladies freely patronise before sitting down to table, an additional charge of 30-50 6. is made. It need hardly be said that persons unaccustomed to such a method of stimulating the appetite can hardly resort to it with impunity. ‘Sexor’, so called from the hour when they are usually served, are half-portions of meat, etc., frequently ordered by persons who desire a slight supper only. The waiters ( Vaktmaslare) always expect a fee of 10 6. or upwards from each person. Cafés (Schwes'tzert'er) at all the principal hotels and restaurants. Of the others the pleasantest and most frequented in summer are the "‘Stro'm- parterre (Pl. E, 4; p. 318), adjoining the Norrbro on the E. side, where a. band plays in the evening; .Blanch‘s Cafe (P1. 19; E, 3), in the Kung- striidgfird (music), Bern’s Salong, adjoining the Berzelii Park (p. 324). The Stro'msborg (see above) also attracts many visitors in fine weather. The Hasselbacken, Novilla, Bellmansro, and other cafes in the Djurgdrd are also very favourite resorts. Bo'ih1"s Cafe’, in the Riddarhus-Torg (Pl. D, 5), is chiefly frequented by men of business. Each customer usu- ally gives the waiter a fee of 56. or more. At most of the restaurants and cafes visitors deposit their hats, great- coats, and umbrellas in a small room at the entrance, provided for this purpose. The attendant here shows a wonderful power of recognising the visitor at his departure, and seldom makes a mistake or requires help in restoring his property. It is usual to give him a fee of 10 Confectioners (who generally have a Dam-Cafe, or ladies‘ refresh- ment room, adjoining their shops). *Grafstro'm, Malmskilnads-Gatan 28; *Landele'us, Storkyrkobrinken 9; Ruth, Drottning-Gatan 50:, Sundell, Drott- ning-Gatan 67; Berg, Regerings-Gatan 14; Sandberg, Vesterling-Gatan 83. Post Office (P1. 33; D, 4), Rodbro-Torget, halfway between the Norrbro and the Railway Station, open 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., Sundays 9-11, 1-2, and 7-9 o’clock. Branch Offices: Lilla Nygatan 6; Hijtorget 14, Handtverkare-Gatan 18; Riddare-Gatan 28, Got-Gatan 18. Numerous letter-boxes in the streets. Telegraph Offlce (P1. 47:, E, F, 4), Skeppsbron 2, always open. At the Grand Hotel, open from 10 a.m. to midnight. Also at Brunkebergs Torget 2, Handtverkare-Gatan 18, Riddare-Gatan 28, and So'dermalms Tor- get, open 8 a.m. to 8 pm. Bankers. Riksbank, Jern-Torget; Skandtnaviska Kl'edt't-Aktt'ebolag, Stor- kyrkobrinken 13; Stockholm Enskz'lda Bank, Lilla Nygatan 27; Slockholms Handelsbank, Kornha-mns-Torget 4. Circular notes and foreign money may be changed at any of these; or at Belmonte‘s, Jakobs-Torget, and several other money-changers. Consuls. American, Mr. N. A. Elfving, Drottning-Gatan 13; vice-con- sul, Hr. J. A. G. M. Schiirer von Waldhet'm, Oxtorgs-Gatan 7. British, Mr. R. Drummond Hay, Norrmalms-Gatan 18; office Skeppsbron 30; Mr. F. Ap-George, vice-consul and translator. German, Hr. W. Redlich, Nybro- Gatan 11,0. French, M. E. Thz‘ébaat, chancellier, Jacobsbergs-Gatan 23.,B. Austrian, Hr. 0. Benedicks, Vesterlfing-Gatan 16. Russian, Hr. A. Motle- rim, Nybro-Gatan, 6,14‘. Besides these and a number of other consuls. am- bassadors from the principal European states also reside at Stockholm. Gabe. Drive within the town, for 1-2 pers. 1kr.; 34 pers. 1kr. 25 6.; for one hour 1 kr. 25 or 1kr. 506., for each additional 1/2 hr. 50 or 606.; at night, 11-6, a fare and a half 3 small articles of luggage free; trunk 20 6., for more than two 506-. -- For a drive to the Djurgard and other I Killllfllll. 1. 1115.000 7,. ‘U‘, \ .‘M‘ \ 7' V ‘.l e t \‘r \ \ 5'5"‘ ;-~~b ‘ \~ 1 a’ :rX, \ \\\*\\\ \ Wagner & De‘benJmr'p-zig. iv 0 Key to the Plan of Stockholm. Akademieø- (Academies): 19. Konstföreningen (Art Union) E, 3 1. Akad. för de fria konsternas ' Kyrkor (Churches); (Academy Of Arts), - 13,4 Adolf Fredriks kyrkan . o, 1, 3 2- Ländtbl'llkS-akademl (Agl'l' 20. Blasieholms kyrkan . . . . F 3 cultural Academy) ; - - - 13,3 21. Engelska kyrkan (English 3. Musikaliska akademi (Aca- Church) _ _ , _ _ _ _ _ _ 13,2 demy Of MUSIC) - _- - - - C» 3 22. Finska kyrkan (Finnish 4. Vetenskaps-akademi (Aoa- Church) _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Egg) _ demy Of SQGHCG) -_ - - - 0,1» 2 Hedvik Eleonoras kyrkan . F, 2 0- Arclnvçs (_RlkS-Arklvetl- - Drö 23. Jaknbs kyrkan . . . . . . E,3 6O Badmrattmngar (Baths) Jnhannis kyrkan . . . . . . D, 1 o a r 81?, 5; E» ‘15F, 4 Karl Johans kyrkan . . . . F,7 Bflyngardar (Rallway - Sta- 1 Katarina kyrkan . . . . . . F, 7 110118 - - - - - - C, 3, 4a h, 7 24. Katniska kyrkan (Rom. Cat-h. Church) . . . . . . D, 3 Banke1'(Banks)= Klara kyrkan . . . . . . . D, 3 7. Riksbanken (National Bank) F, Ö r Mafia kyrkan - ~ - - ~ - Er 6» 7 8. Skandinaviska Krcdit-Aktie- 20. Riddarholms kyrkan D, 5 bolag (Scandinavian Joint 26- Ryska kyrkan (Russian Stock Bank) . . . . . . . ,5 Church) - t - - - - - - - 1 9. Stockholms Enskilda Ban- Skeppsholins kyrkan, see ken (Private Bank). . . 115,5 Karl Johans kyrkan. 10. Barnbördshuset (Lying-in 27- Storkyrkan . . . . . . . E, 4, 5 Hospital) . . . . . ,4, D, 2 28- Tyska kyrka-n (German _ Bergssk()lan(Mining-Schoon3 Church) . . . . . . . . . E,O Drottninggatan _ _ _ _ _ _ 1 Ulrika Eleonoras kyrkan B, 4 11. Biblioteket, Riks (National- 29- Møsebaßke - - - - - - - - F, 6 Library) . . . . . . . . . E Mynteflkonsl-a R0ya1Mint)B.<1 National Museum . . . . . FJ; Bildstoder (Monuments): 30 gpservtaatåil-lyâli .1. . .t . . . 3,5 . . I .. . vers a are inse Berzelius, in the Berzelii _ (Govemorrs House) _ _ _ E_ 47 5 Park . . . . . . . . . . . E 3 - f . l 31. Palats, Arfprinsens (Palace Birger Jarl . . . . . . . . D, 5 - Cha 1 of the Crown Prince . . . D, ll I' eS e . . . e . . E, 3 P ~ ~ I Y . oliskammaren (PoliceOffice) D, 4 Charles XIII . . . . . . . E. 3 33 P .I t . osthuset (Post Office) . D, 4 Charles XIV. John . E 3 f o 1 ~ , ’ 34. Badhuset (‘I own Hall). . D, 4, 0 Gustavus Adolphus . E, 4 35 Kddarh t D 5 Gustavus III . . . . . . . E F,4 ' i 1 use ' ' ' ’ ' ' ° °. ’ _ _ ’ 36. Riksdagshuset (House ot 12 Gustavus Vasa . . . . . . D, 5 Parliament) D F) -. Börsen (Exchange). . . . . E Ö -- , ° ' ' ' ' ' ° " 13. Etnografiska. samlingen, ' ’ 37' äanêflfabet (a Smb) tt' t ' E’ 3 skandinavisk (Ethno- (egggigl) “are e B C 4 graphical Museum). . . . C 2 ' ' ' ° ' '. ' ' ’ Farmaceutiska institutet ’ 38' Sšfzßlhdšågla” ‘Industml D 3 n. ska::atšsaäasafaâi C, 2 e E14 Arsenal) . . . . . . . . . G 5 39' Sy'la'gogan (Synag°g“e) E’ 3 15. Frimurarlogen (Freemasons1 Teatrar (Theatres): Lodge) . . . . . . . . . . F, 3 110. Kongl. Stora Teatern . . E, 3, 4 16. Gymnasium(Gra-mmarSchool) D,5 111. - Dramatiska. Teatern E, 3 17. Gymnastiska Central Insti- 42. Blasieholms Teatern . . . . F, 3 tutet . . . . . . . . . . . D, 3 Djurgårds Teatern I, 3 Hasselbacken . . . . . . . 1,4 43. Södra Teatern . . . . . . . F,6 18. Hofrätt, kongl. Svea (Cou 44. Tekniska Skolan or Slöjd- of Appeal for the districts skolan . . . . . . . . . . of Svearike, Norrland and 45. Tekniska Högskolan. . . . B, 1 the Island of Gotland) . . D, 5 46. Telegrafen . . . . . . . E, F, 4 Howls. a. Grand Hotel . . . . . . . E, F, 3 c. Kung Karl . . . . . . . . . D,.3 b. Rydberg . . . . . . . .11,11 d. Germania . . . . . . . . E,3,4 314 Route 43. STOOKHOLM. Steamboats. places in the environs 11/2-2 kr. for the first hour, and 60-75 for each additional 1/2 hr. -— Cab Stands near the Post Office, in the Brunkebergs Torg, on the Skeppsbro, in the Stortorg, etc. Tramway (Spfirva'gar). In the smaller cars the fare is deposited in a box as at Christiania (see p. 1). The drivers give change for sums not exceeding 1 kr., the coin .to be changed being handed to him through the small Window marked ‘VVexling’. There are three main lines. 1. Rise LINE (Slassen-Nor-rmalm; with green name—boards and lan- terns; fare 10 6.), every 5 minutes in each direction. From Slussen (Pl. E, F, 6) by the Skeppsbt'on Quay to the Now-bro (PLEA), then (to the right) by Karl den Tolftes To-rget, Ostra Tradge‘irdsgatan, Norwnalmstorget, and Norrmalms-Gatan, passing the Humlegiirden on the left, to Roslags- Target (Pl. D, 1); then through the Trebackarlang-Gatan and past the Adolf Fredriks-Kg/rka (Pl. 0, 1, 2) to Salu-Torget (Pl. B, 2) and through the Klara Strand-Gatan, past the Central Station (Pl. C, 3, , and across the Vasabro and Riddarhus-Torget to Slussen (Pl. E, F, 6). — From this line diverges a branch (yellow boards and lanterns), which leads to the E. along the Humlegz‘irden, and then turns to the right and runs to Nybro-Gatan (Pl. E, F, 1). Passengers are entitled to change from one of these lines to the other without extra charge, on demanding a ‘Fripollette’. 2. NoRRBRO-DJURGXRD LINE (red name-boards and lanterns; fare 10 6.), every 10 minutes. From the Norrbro (Pl. E, 11) as above to Norrmalms- Target (Pl. E, 2, 3), and then by the Nybrohmnn and Ladugardslands- St'rand-Gata to the Djurgdrd (terminus opposite Hasselbacken in the All- mc'inna-Grdnd; Pl. H, J, 5, 4). 3. From the GUSTAF—ADOLFS-TORG (Pl. E, 4; near the Norrbro) to KUNGSHOLMEN (Pl. A, B, 4). Fare 10 Steamboats. The steamboats which ply from Stockholm in every direction are so numerous, and the maze of islands and water-ways around the city is so complicated, that the traveller will at first be somewhat bewildered. Before making any excursion, he should of course consult the latest number of ‘Sveriges Kommunikationer’, and also the map of the environs, and be careful to ascertain the starting-point of the vessel. For the larger sea-going vessels the principal quays are SKEPPSBRON, on the E. side of Staden (Pl. F, 4, 5), and BLASIEHOLMS-HAMNEN (Pl. E, F, It) adjoining the Grand Hotel and the Museum. For the smaller sea-going and coasting steamers the starting-point is the RIDDARHOLM QUAY on the W. side of that island, which lies to the W. of Staden, whence most of the Malar steamers and those bound for Gothenburg by the canal route also start. A number of the smaller lake-steamers again have their usual berths on the MUNKBRo and the Ko'r'r-Tono, on the W. and S.W. sides of Staden (Pl. D, E, 5). The sea-going steamers will be found in the ‘Kommunikatio— ner‘ under the heads ‘Nom'at’, ‘Osternt‘, ‘So'deruf, and ‘Veste-rnt”; see also the heads ‘Go'ta Kanal’ and ‘Mdlaren’ The following is a short list of the principal routes mentioned in the Handbook. To Gefle (p. 359) 4 times weekly from Skeppsbron and 6 times monthly from Karl XII.’s Torget, to Visby 3 times weekly from Riddarholmen and once weekly from Blasie- holms-Hamnen and Klintehamn (comp. p. 373); to Kalmar (p. 386) twice weekly from Riddarholmen, and once weekly from Blasieholms-Hamnen (also by the Liibeck, Copenhagen, and Gothenburg steamers); to Gothenbm'g via Kalmar, Karlskrona, Karlshamn, Malmo', and other ports three times weekly from Riddarholmen; to Copenhagen weekly, touching at inter- mediate ports, from Riddarholmen; to London fortnightly from Skepps- bron. Steamers also sail occasionally to Hamburg, Amsterdam, Antwerp, Haw-e, etc. — Steamboats on Lake Ma'laren, see pp. 337-348. Steam Launches ( ngslapar). Communication between different parts of the city and the suburbs and immediate environs is maintained y numerous small steam ferry-boats, which cross Lake Malaren and the Saltsjo (p. 346) in all directions at intervals of 3-15 minutes. The fares vary from 3 to 15 6. according to the distance. The course of these steamers is indicated in the Plan, and it will suffice to give here a time- table of those plying to the Djm'géird (p. 338; every 10-15 min.). 1. From the Stro'mparterre (Pl. E, 4) to Alkdrret (Pl. H, 4); fare 10 o. Theatres. STOCKHOLM. 43. Route. 315 2. From Karl den Tolfles Torg (Pl. E, 3, 4) to Alka'rret; fare 10 3. From Nybv'om'ken (Pl. F, 3) to Alka'm'el; fare 10 6. 4. From the Rdntma'slaretrappa (Pl. F, 5, 6) to the Jernvc‘igen atv All- mdnna-Grdnd (Pl. H, I, 3, 4; fare 5 6.) and to Doc/can on Beckholmen (8 6.). 5. From Skeppsholmen (Pl. G, 4, 5) to Allma'nna-Gm'ind; fare 8 6. From Logc‘irdstrappan (Pl. E, 4) to~Blr3porten (Kaptensudden; Pl. H, 3; fare 12 6.) and to Ladugrirolsgdrdet (Hesslz'ngeberg) and Djurgtcirds- brunn (15 6.). 7, 8. From Gustaf‘s III. Staly (Pl. E, F, 4) and from the Rdntmdstara trappa (Pl. F, 5, 6) to Mantlla (20 6.) and Blockhusudolen (25 6.) on the S. bank of the Djurg‘aird, several times daily. Several of the steamboat-routes to the most interesting points in the Environs of Stockholm are described in various parts of the text of the Handbook. The traveller is referred for more detailed information as to the hours of starting, fares, etc. to the ‘Fullstc'indt'g Tabell ofver Kam- munz'kalionerna z'nom Stockholm och dess Ndrmaste OmgQfnt'ngar”, or to the second part of the Soeriges Kommum'katz'oner (under the heading ‘Slockholms Omgz'fnz'nQm", with the sub-headings Ma‘laren and Sallsjo'n). Shops. Booksellers: Samson it’ Wallin, Drottning-Gatan 7, corner of Freds-Gatan; Fritze, Gustaf-Adolfs-Torget 18; Bille, Drottning-Gatan 25; Loostro'm d: Co.,ONorrbro. —- Fishing-gear: Leidedorfi’ska Manufactory, Stora Nygatan 12; Akerlund, Malmstorgs-Gatan 3. —— Furs: P. N. Bergstro'm, Storkyrkobrinken 4 and Freds-Gatan 18. — Jewellers (antiquities, etc.): Hammer, Freds-Gatan 18, first floor; Larson, Gustaf-Adolfs-Torg 14. —- Gloves; Alb. Schmidt, Gustaf-Adolfs-Torg. —— Bazaars: Slbjdfiirem'ngen‘s Museum, see below; Jos. Leja, Regerings-Gatan 5. One of the most interesting commercial institutions of Stockholm is the Exnrm'rror: OF THE FRIENDS OF MANUAL LABOUR (Handarbelcts Vdnners Ulstdlln-ing, Brunkebergs-Torget 15, second floor; open daily 10-4), a society founded in 1874 for the purpose of encouraging the ancient Swe- dish practice of domestic weaving and embroidery and of adapting it to the conditions of the present day. Orders are received at the office, and visitors are admitted to a room in which several peasant-women may be seen at work. Prices rather high. Railway Stations. All the principal trains (to Upsala and Gefle, to Karlstad and Christiania, to Gothenbm'g, and to Malmo') start from and arrive at the CENTRAL STATION (Pl. C, 4), while the So‘dra Bangc‘i/rd is used by a few slow local trains only. The ‘gemensam borgerliga Tid’ or railway-time given in the time-tables is that of Gothenburg. The true Stockholm time is 24 minutes in advance of that of Gothenburg. Baths. Nya Kungsholmsbro-Gatan 16, near Rydberg‘s Hotel (Turkish and others; Pl. 6; D, 4); Gamla Norrbron 5 (Pl. 6; E, 4); Lilla Badstugatan 4 (Pl. E, 6). Swimming Bath (Pl. 6; D, 5), at the N. end of the Riddarholm; Ladies‘ Baths (Pl/‘6; F, 4), adjoining the Skep sholms-Bro, at the S.E. end. Theatres. Stora Teatern (P1. 40; E, 4; p. 23), admission from 1-4 kr. ; performances throughout the year, beginning at 7 or 7.30. - Dramatiska Tealern (P1. 41; E, 3); admission l/2-3 kr. —- Nya Teatern (P1. 42; F, 3); 1/2-2 kr. -— Mindre Teatern (Pl. E, 3), Karl XII.’s Torget, a few paces to the W. of the Grand Hotel; 1/2-11/2 kr. -— Laduge‘irdslands-Teatern (Pl.44; F, 2); 1/2-11/2 kr. —— Humlegc‘trds-Teatern (P1. 43; E, 1), 0 en in summer only. — Sb'dra (P1. 45; F, 6). -- In the Djm'ge‘ird (p. ) are a Theatre (Pl. I, 3), ‘Alhambra’, and Circus, open in summer only. _ Music in the afternoon and evening at Hasselbacken (see above), at Nom'lla in the Djurgfird, on the Sh'b'mpartem'e, at Blanch’s Café in the Kungstradgfird (p. 323), and in the Berzelii Park (p. 324). Collections, etc. "‘Natz'onal Museum (p. 328): *Collection of Art and Weapons, 0n the ist and 2nd floor, week-days (Mon. excepted) 11-3, Sun. 1-4 (on Wed., Thurs., dz Sat. 50 6., at other times free); Egyptian Collection, Tues. & Frid. 11-3, free; *Historical Museum (Swedish Antiquities) and Cabinet of Coins, on the ground-floor, daily, 12-3 in summer, 12-2 in winter, free. On Monday the Museum is closed to the public, but strangers are admitted for a fee of 1 kr., on application to the door-keeper. 316 Route 43. STOCKHCLM. Collections. Natural History Museum 328), Drottning-Gata-n 94, Sun. and Wed. 12-2, free; Sat, same hours, 6. Strangers admitted at other times for fee of 2 kr. Closed in Nov. and Dec. *Northern Museum (p. 324) Drottning-Gatan 71, open on Sundays, 19, and Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays, 11-5, admission 506.; ‘First Annex’, Drottning-Gatan 45, first floor, same times, fee 25 6.; ‘Sec- and Annex’, Drottning-Gatan 79, first and second floors; Wed. and Sat., 11-5, and Sun. 1-3, admission 25 Tickets admitting to all the sections 75 Adm. at other than the stated times, double fee. *Konstfoi'ening (Art-union; p. 323), entrance at the N. end of the Tradgftrd-Gatan; daily, except Mondays, 11-3 or 11-4, admission 25 6.; Sun- days and holidays, 1-3, admission 10 6. National Library (p. 328), week-days, 11—2. Agricultural Museum (p. 324), Master-Samuels-Gatan 36 (Pl. C, 3), Wed. and Sat., daily, 122. Fo'rening for Nordisk Konsl, Hamngatan (Pl. E, 3), daily 11-3 or 11-4; adm. 25 6., Sun. 10 6. Industrial Exhibition (Slojdforeningens Museum, p. 324), Brunkebergs- Torg 15, Sun 1-4, week-days 11-5, adm. 25 6. Collection of Models at the Polytechnic School (Slo'jdskolan, p. 324, P1. 38; D, 3), week-days 8-10 and 3-5, Sun. 25. Museum of the Caroline Institute (Pl. B, 4), Handtverkaregatan 3, a medical collection, daily on application to the ‘Vaktmiistare‘. Riddarholms Kyrka (p. 321), in summer (May-Sept.) Tues. & Thurs, 12-2, 25 6., Sat. 12-2, free; in the other months, Tues. 6L Thurs. 12-2, on application to the ‘Vaktmastare’ at the Royal Palace (Riksmarskalks- Rummen, adjoining the guard-house). , Riddarhuset (p. 321), on week-days, on application to the ‘Vaktmastare‘, who is to be found till 3 p.m. in the antechamber on the first floor, to the left. Fee l/2-1 kr. Royal Archives (p. 322), week-days, 112 Royal Palace (p. 318), daily, in the absence of the royal family. English Church (P1. 21; B, 2), in the R6rst-rands-Gata. Principal Attractions. National Museum (p. 328); Northern Museum (p. 324); Konstfo'i'ening (p. 323); Royal Palace (p. 318); Riddarholms Kyrka (p. 321); view from the Mosebacke (p. 321); walks on the .Skeppsholm (p. 338) and in the Djui'gc‘ird (p. 338); view from Mai'iebei'g (p. 323); excursions to Drotlningholm (p. 343), Gi'ipsholm (p. 344), U lriksdal (p. 342), and Vawholm (p. 347'). Stockholm, the capital of the Kingdom of Sweden, and the seat of government and of the supreme courts of law, with 174,700 in- hab., in 59° 20' N. lat. and 18° 5’ E. long., lies at the influx of Lake Mc'ilaren into an arm of the Baltic (Saltsjo'). It possesses ex- cellent harbours both in the Baltic and Lake Malaren, which are the scene .of busy traffic, except during the four or five months in winter when they are usually frozen over. The situation of the town on islands, on a plain, and on rocky hills, surrounded by water and islands in almost every direction, is exceedingly picturesque. Stock- holm has therefore not inaptly been called the ‘Venice of the North’, and has sometimes been compared with Geneva also; but no such comparison can convey an adequate idea of the place, which differs in many respects from all others. The most striking peculiarity of the city consists in the fact that it lies in immediate proximity with primaeval forests and rocky islands, where to this day there is hardly a trace of cultivation. Various modern im- provements have been effected in the Norrmalm, or N. quarter of the town, but in the Stidermalm, the Kungsholm, by the Obser- History. STOCKHOLM. 43. Route. 317 vatory, and in the Skeppsholm and Kastellholm the bare granite rock is frequently seen protruding in the midst of the houses. HISTORY. The most ancient national chronicles mention a settlement which lay on the site of the modern city of Stockholm, but which was very unimportant compared with Sigtuna (p. 352) or with Gamla Upsala (p. 357). — After the place had been repeatedly plundered and destroyed b pirates and hostile tribes (the Esths and Karelians, about the year 1 88), Bic-yer Jm'l in 1255 fortified Staden, Helgeandsholmen, and Riddar- holmen, the three islands now occupied by ‘the city’, protecting them with towers and walls, and constituting them the capital of his dominions. Since that period the history of Sweden, and particularly that of the numerous conflicts between the Swedes and Danes, has centred around Stockholm. It was long before the city extended beyond the limits of these three islands. The increasing population had indeed several times begun to occupy the mainland to the N. and S., but these settlements were as often swept away by the Danish besiegers (Margaret in 1389, Christian I. in 1471, and Christian II. in 1520). At length from the middle of the 16th cent. downwards the citizens were enabled to extend their borders in peace. During the regency in the reign of Christina, the daughter of Gustavus Adolphus, the precincts of the city were extended so as to embrace the N. and S. suburbs, the former of which was erected in accordance with a regular plan. In consequence of various great fires, the old timber-built houses have gradually been replaced with substantial stone edifices. 1n the 17th cent. the population was 15,000, in 1751 it had increased to 55,700, in 1800 to 75,500, in 1850 to 93,000, and in 1870 to 136,000, while on 31st Dec. 1882 the number was found to be 174,706. Stockholm consists of the following quarters: —- 1. Staden, ‘the city’, the oldest part of the town, situated on an island at the mouth of Lake Malaren and on the two smaller adjacent islands Riddarholmen and Helgeandsholmen. It contains the Royal Palace, and is now the headquarters of the shipping and wholesale trade. 2. Norrmalmen, or the N. quarter, with the island of Blasie- holmen, which is now connected with the mainland, the hand- somest part of the town, containing all the principal hotels, the railway-station, and the best shops, and consisting of substantial. regularly-built streets. 3. Ladugc'zrdslandet, a quarter adjoining the Norrmalm on the E., the distinctive feature of which formerly consisted of its bar- racks. It now also contains numerous handsome private houses. 4\.\ Kungsholmen, an island adjoining the Norrmalm on the S.W.,‘~ the site of several hospitals and manufactories. 5. Siidermalmen, or the S. quarter, which is the most extensive in point of area, but the least interesting part of the city. 6. Saltsjo-Oamc, or the Baltic islands of Skeppsholmen and Kas- tellholme'n, containing naval and military establishments, and lastly Djurgé’zrds-Staden, or the park suburb, with the adjoining Beckholmen. All these quarters are connected by means of BRIDGES, by far the most important of which are the Norrbro (Pl. E, 4; see below) and the new Vasabro (Pl. D, 4), completed in 1878, connecting the Norrmalm with Staden, and Slussen (Pl. E, 6; p. 336), or the ‘Sluice Bridge’, connecting Staden with the Soderrnalm. . 318 Route 43. STOCKHOLM. Staden. STADEN AND RIDDARHOLMEN. The most interesting survey of the singularly picturesque site of Stockholm and of its busy harbour-traffic is afforded by the *Norrbro (Pl. E, 4), a handsome bridge of seven arches completed in 1797, spanning the short river which forms the principal efflux of Lake Malaren, and connecting the Norrmalm and Staden. It is constructed of granite, and is 125 yds. long and 20 yds. wide. Part of it stands on the N .E. side of the small Helgeandsholm, where, flanking the S.W. side of the bridge, there are a number of shops, the old buildings behind which are to be removed to make way for a new park. On the opposite (N.E.) side of the bridge is the *Stromparterre (cafe, with music in the evening, see p. 315; steamboats to the Djurgard every 1/4 hr.), to which two handsome flights of steps descend. ‘Hur praktigt speglar ej den striimmen af Torn, hjeltestoder, slott og sangartempel, Och aftonrodnan iifver Riddarholmen, Der Sveriges ara sofver under marmor!’ (TEGNER). (How magnificently do the tower, heroes’ statues, palace, and temple of the Muses reflect themselves in the stream, and the evening red over the Riddarholm, where Sweden‘s honour sleeps beneath marble.) From the S.E. end of the bridge a broad and massive quay, con- structed of granite like all the others at Stockholm, extends to the E. and 8., along the E. side of Staden. This is SKEPPSBRON, the landing-place of most of the large sea-going steamers, as well as of numerous local steam-launches. Approaching Staden from the N., we observe on the right the M'ynt-Torg and the old Mint, a building with a facade of four columns, now occupied by various public offices. The Mynt-Gata leads thence to the Riddarhus-Torg (see p. 321). On a rocky height at the S.E. end of the Norrbro rises the *Royal Palace (Pl. E, 4), begun on the site of an earlier edifice by Nicodemus Tcssz'n, a Swedish architect, in 1697, in the Italian Renaissance style. The work was interrupted by the wars in which Charles XII. was engaged, but was at length completed by Count Carl Gust. Tessin, Hcirlemann, and Cronstedt in 1753. This massive edifice, consisting of a ground-floor, an entresol, and two upper stories, with a flat roof, forms a rectangle 135 yds. in length and 127 yds. in width, and encloses a court which is nearly square in shape. The N. and S. facades are adjoined by four lower wings, extending to the E. and W., so that the N. facade is double the length of the central building. The N.W. portal, facing the bridge, is approached by a handsome carriage-drive, constructed in 1824- 34, and called Lejonsbacken from the bronze lions, cast in 1704, with which it is adorned. On the S.W. side of the palace are two detached buildings forming a small semicircular outer court, one of them being the chief Guard House. On the N.E. side, be— tween the projecting wings, is a small garden called Logdrdm sateen. STOCKHOLM. 43. Route. 319 or ‘lynx-yard’, which is said to derive its name from a small me- nagerie once kept here. It affords a fine view of the harbour, and communicates with Skeppsbron by means of a flight of steps, but is not open to the public. The central quadrangle on the other hand, with the N.W., S.W., and S.E. portals, is always accessible. The private apartments are shown daily in summer, during the absence of the royal family, while the public rooms (Festivitets- Vdningen) may be visited at any time. The rooms on each floor are shown by a different attendant (cakt'mc'istare; fee 1-2 kr.). The PRINCIPAL ENTRANCE is on the S.W. side, adjacent to the Guard House. Passing the sentinel posted here, we turn to the left in the gate- way and ascend a handsome staircase leading to the SECOND FLooR. Here, on the right, are the sumptuous state apartments known as the Festivitets- Vining, once occupied by Charles XIV. John. Passing through the Life Guard Saloon, embellished with arms, the Concert Room, and the Audience Room, with ceiling paintings illustrative of the history of Alexander the Great by Jacques Fouquet (1700) and some old tapestry, we enter the Red Saloon, embellished with allegorical ceiling-paintings by Fouquet with reference to the youth of Charles XII., several busts in marble, and a valuable silver candelabrum of the time of Charles X. — Farther on we come to the Grand Gallery, 52 yds. long and 71/2 yds. wide, richly de- corated with stucco marble, and gilding. The handsome doors carved in oak by Henrz'on in 1696-99, were designed by Fouquet. Ceiling-paintings also by Fouquet, those in the side cabinets being illustrative of war and peace. This apartment and the following contain a number of sculptures in marble by Fogelberg, Bystro'm, Molin, and others. —- The Great Ban- quett'ng Saloon, known as Hm'ta Hafvet (‘the white sea’), a name derived from its white stuccoed walls, 45 yds. long and 38 yds. wide, was formed in 1845 of two rooms originally separate. The ceiling-paintings are by Italian painters of the first half of the 18th century. —— The Blue and the Red Cabinet, and the Bedroom in which King Charles John died, are also shown. The FIRST FLooR of the same wing (on the right of the visitor ascend- ing the staircase) contains the Privy Council Rooms, the Seraphim Saloon (for the knights of the Seraphim Order, the highest in Sweden, which is said to have been founded in 1276-90, and was reconstituted in 1748 and 1814), and the Riks-Sal Or Imperial Hall, where the ceremony of opening the representative Chambers takes place. — On the left (of those ascending the staircase) are the King’s Apartments, adjoined by the Queen’s Apartments. The latter, in the N.E. wing, are entered from the passage leading to the Logfird (p. 318). These apartments contain numerous portraits of members of the royal family, sculptures by Swedish masters, pictures by Scandinavian artists, magnificent gifts presented by foreign sovereigns, and other objects of value; but a visit to them will hardly repay a trav— eller whose time is limited. - The S.E. wing contains the Palace Chapel (service on Sundays at 11 o’clock). The S.E. facade of the Palace, embellished with a colonnade, looks towards the Slottsbacke, or Palace Hill (Pl. E, 4), a hand- some plats descending to the Skeppsbro. The Slottbacke is ad- orned with an Obelisk, 100 ft. in height, erected in 1799 by Gusta- vus 1V. in memory of the loyalty of the citizens of Stockholm during the war against Russia in 1788-90, while the attitude of the nobility was hostile to their sovereign. At the foot of the Slottsbacke, on the Skeppsbro, rises the finely executed *Honu-i ment of Gustavus 111. (P1. E, 4), by J. T. Sergel, a Swedish sculptor, erected in 1808 by public subscription in honour of that 320 Route 43. STOCKHOLM. Staden. chivalric monarch. The rudder on which the statue of the King leans is an allusion to his naval victories. This point commands a fine view of the harbour and the Skeppsholm. The Governor’s House (Ofverstathc‘itlare—Huset; P1. 30; E, 5), on the S.E. side of the Slottsbacke, which possesses a handsome court, was erected by the distinguished architect Nicod. Tessin (p. 318), to whom it originally belonged. At the S.W. end of the Slottsbacke rises the Storkyrka. (Great Church,- Pl. 27; E, 5), which, according to the inscription, was founded by Birger Jarl in 1264, and entirely rebuilt in 1726-43. The unpleasing tower is 184 ft. in height. In the interior, which consists of a nave with double aisles, is a valuable altar-piece in silver, ivory, and ebony, embellished with 18 scenes from the Passion (beginning of 17th cent.) An interesting candelabrum with seven branches, of the 14th cent., presented by King Magnus Smek, a picture by Ehrenstrahl (d. 1698), ancient tombstones, and the rich treasury of silver vessels are also objects of interest. (The Ktockare or sacristan lives at Svartman-Gatan 22; fee 1/2-1 kr.) A short street leads from the Slottsbacke to the S. to the STOP. TORG(G’rCatM(1‘rk6t; Pl. E, 5), the central and highest point of the old town, on the N.W. side of which rises the Exchange (Pl. 12), where business begins at 1. 3O p.m. daily. In this market-place several tragic scenes have been enacted. In 1280 Magnus Ladulas caused three members of his own family to be executed. In 1437 Erik Puke, and in 1605 the royal counsellor Bjelke were also be- headed here. The saddest event in the annals of the city, known as the Stockholm Blood Bath, took place in the Stor-Torg on 10th and 11th November, 1520, when Christian II. of Denmark caused a great number of his opponents to be executed here with a view to consolidate his power in Sweden, but with the result that the Danes were soon afterwards expelled. from the country. Numerous steep lanes, called Brinka'r and Gréinder, intersected by transverse streets, descend from the Stor-Torg to the Skeppsbro to the E., and to the Stora Nygata to the W., forming the head- quarters of the humbler class of tradesmen, whose Swedish char- acteristics will interest many travellers. In the Svartman-Gata, to the S.E. of the Star-Torg, rises the _Tyska Kyrka or German Church (P1. 28; E, 5), erected in 1636-42 on the site of an earlier edifice, but severely damaged by a fire in Oct. 1878, on which occasion the tower with its set of chimes resembling those in Holland was burned down. The pulpit and the altar were presented by German merchants in the 17th century. We now descend to the S.W. to the Stora Nygata, which leads to the N.W. to the Riddarhus-Torg. At the S.E. end of the Nygata lies the Komhamns- Torg (‘corn-harbour market’; Pl. E, 5), where we may turn to the left to Slussen, leading to the Sodermalm , or to the right to the Mc'ilar-Torg and the Kiitt-Torg (‘meat-market’; Riddarholm. STOCKHOLM. 43. Route. 321 Pl. E, 5), which is intersected by the railway. These quays command fine views of the picturesque hills of the Siidermalm. To the N. of the Kiitt-Torg we next reach the Munkbro (Pl. D, 5), the busiest scene of the market-trafflc of Stockholm, and the landing-place of many of the smaller Malaren steamers. No. 2 in the Lilla Nygata, which diverges from the Munkbro to theS.E., is the Petcrsenskahus, once the property of Queen Christina, and recently restored. The RIDDARHUS—TORG (Pl. D, 5), ‘bounded on the N.W. side by the Riddarhus and the Town Hall, is adorned with a Statue of Gustavus Vasa, designed by L’Archeuéque, and erected in 1773 by the Swedish nobility on the 250th anniversary of the day when the king entered Stockholm and delivered his country from the oppressive Danish yoke. On 13th July, 1756, Count Brahe, Barons Horn and Wrangel, and others were brought to the scaffold here for the crime of conspiring to undermine the constitution. On 10th June, 1810, Marshal Axel v. Fersen fell a victim here to the fury of the populace, who were seriously alarmed by the sudden death of the crown-prince, and believed that he had been poisoned by the marshal. The Riddarhus (Knights’ House; P1. 35; D, 5), a brick struc- tnre, erected in 1648-70 from designs by Simon (i6 la Vallée, is adorned with Latin inscriptions and allegorical figures on the facade. On the first floor is a large room embellished with the armorial bearings of all the Swedish nobles, and with ceiling-paintings by Ehrenstrahl, where the Upper Chamber held its meetings down to 1866. A room on the ground-floor contains portraits of all the marshals of Sweden from 1627 to 1809, who have been presidents of the Upper Chamber, with the exception of General Lewenhaupt, who was blamed by the nobility for their want of success in the war against Finland in 1740-43, and beheaded in 1743. Ad- mission, see p. 316. . Adjoining the Riddarhus, on the opposite side of the Riddar- bus—Grand which leads to the N.W. to the Vasa Bridge, rises the Town Hall (Réidhuset; P1. 34; D, 5), once the palace of Count Bonde, the royal treasurer, and converted to its present use in 1731. The Council Chamber contains several antiquities connected with the history of the town. (Apply to the ‘vaktmastare.’) _. From the Riddarhus-Torg a bridge leads to the SW. to the RIDDARHOLM (P1. 1), 5), on which rises the "‘Riddarholms-Kyrka (P1. ‘2.5), with its conspicuous perforated spire of cast iron, 290 ft. in height. It was formerly a church of the Franciscans, and has. for centuries been the burial-place of the kings and most cele- brated natives of Sweden. The building is in the Gothic style, but has been disfigured by Renaissance additions and alterations. Divine worship has not been performed here since 1807, except on the occasion of royal funerals. The principal entrance is at the W. end. (Admission, see p. 316.) BAEDEKER‘s Norway and Sweden. 2nd Edit. 21 322 Route 43. STOCKHOLM. Riddarholm. The walls of the church are embellished with the armorial bearings of knights of the Seraphz'm Order (p. 319), and the pavement is formed of tombstones. Flanking the high altar are the Monuments of Kings Mag'nus Ladulas (d. 1320) and Charles VIII. ((1. 1470), erected during the reign of John III. in the 16th century. On the right (8.) is the Burial Chapel of Gustavus Adolphus (Gustam'anska Grafkoret), constructed in 1633 in accordance with instructions given by the king in 1629 before his departure for Germany. Since 1832, the 200th anniversary of the famous monarch's death (at the battle of Liitzen, 6th Nov. 1632), his remains have reposed in a green marble sarcophagus, executed in Italy by order of Gustavus III. for the reception of the body of his father Adolphus Frederick, but unused till 1832, when the remains of Gustavus Adolphus were transferred to it by Charles XIV. John. It bears the simple in- scription: Gustavus Adolfus Magnus. Between the windows of the chapel are placed Austrian, Russian, and other flags as trophies of the king's victories. In the vault below are interred Maria Eleonora of Branden- burg (d. 1655), the queen of Gustavus Adolphus: kings Adolphus Frederick (d. 1771), Gustavus 111. (d. 1792), and Charles X111. (d. 1818), with their queens, and other members of the Holstein-Gottorp family. —- On the op- posite (N.) side of the church is the Caroline Chapel (Ka-rolinska Graf- koret), constructed in 1686—1743. It contains the sarcophagus of Charles X11. ((1. 1718), in black marble. on which is placed a li-. n‘s skin in brass, with a crown, sceptre, and sword. To the right is the marble sarcophagus of Frederick l. (d. 1751), and on the left reposes his queen Ulre'ca Eleo- nora (d. 1742), sister of Charles XII. Between the windows are trophies formed of captured Polish, Danish, and Russian flags. In the vault be- low are interred Charles X. Gustavus (d. 1660), Charles XI. (d. 1697), and their queens, and several princes of the Vasa family. -— Adjoining the Chapel of Gustavus, on the S. side of the choir, is the Bernadotte Chapel (Bernadotteska Grafkoret), designed by Prof. Scholander, and constructed in 1858-60. A massive sarcophagus of porphyry here contains the remains of Charles XIV. John (Bernadotte, d. 1844). The vault below contains the coffin of his queen Desz'derta (d. 1860), and those of Oscar 1. (d. 1859) and Charles X V. (d. 1872), the queen of the latter, and several members of the royal family. In the aisles of the church are the burial-vaults of Count Lewenhaupt, adorned with numerous Russian flags; Counts Wachtmeister e v. Ferse-n, also with Russian flags; Count Torstensson, with a marble bust of Mar- shal Lennart Torstensson (d. 1651), with numerous Austrian and other flags; Count Vasaborg, with Austrian flags: Marshal Banér (in the centre of the S. aisle, visible through a pointed doorway), with the armour of the marshal (d. at Halberstadt, 1641) and many Austrian flags; and lastly the Stryks Family, with Russian, Polish, Austrian , Danish, Saxon, and other flags. . On the Riddarholm are also situated the Riksdagshus or Assembly Hall of the Chambers (P1. 36; D, 5), originally erected in 1794, but rebuilt in 1866, occupying the site of the old Franciscan mon- astery; the Svea Hof'rdtt (P1. 18; D, 5), which was occupied by the royal family in 1677-1754, previously to the completion of the palace; and the Rilcs-Arkiv (P1. 5; D, 5; adm. p. 316). In the centre of the island is the BIRGER-JARLS-TORG, em— bellished with a *Statue of Birger Jarl in bronze , which was de- signed by Fogelberg, and erected by public subscription in 1854. -- The Railway Bridge (toll 2 6. ; p. 292), crossing from the Bid- darholm to the mainland to the N.W., has a foot-way on the N.E. side , from which a path descends to the Striimsborg (Pl. D, 4), a small island containing a restaurant and baths. Northern Quarters. STOCKHOLM. 43. Route. 323 THE NORTHERN QUARTBRS OF THE TOWN. At the N. end of the Norrbro lies the GUSTAF—ADOLFS—TORG (P1. E, 4), in the centre of which rises a lofty pedestal of Swedish granite and marble, bearing an equestrian Statue of Gustavus Adolphus , in bronze, designed by L’Archeoé‘que in 1777 , but not erected till 1796. The pedestal is adorned with bronze reliefs of the Swedish generals Torstensson, Wrangel, Banér, and K6nigs- marck. On 6th N ov., the anniversary of the celebrated king’s death, crowds of Stockholmers assemble round the monument, singing hymns and particularly the lines composed by Gustavus himself before the battle of Liitzen (‘F6rfaras ej du lilla hop’; i. 6. ‘fear not, little band’). On the W. side of the market-place rises the Palace of the Crown Prince (P1. 31; D, 4), erected in 1783-93 , and now un- occupied. The principal building on the N. side is the Hotel Ryd- berg; and on the E. side is the Store. Teater (P1. 10; E, 4; p. 315), designed by Adlercrantz, and erected by Gustavus III. in 1775-82, who dedicated it to the ‘National Poetry’ (Patriis Musls) of which he was an ardent admirer and patron. Among the visitors to the court of Gustavus were Kellgren, Lidner, Leopold, and Bell- man, the chief founders of Swedish literature. It was in this theatre, at a masked ball on 16th—17th March 1792, that Gusta- vus III. was assassinated by Capt. Ankarstrtim. Immediately to the N. of the Theatre is the Jacobs-Kyrka (Pl. 23), where Marshal Horn is interred (d. 1659), adjoining which on the E. is the KUNGs'rRAnGARn (‘King’s Garden’; Pl. E. 3), adorned with statues of two Swedish monarchs, and embellished with avenues and flower—beds. At the end of the promenades next to the quay rises the *Statue of Charles XIL, by M olin, surrounded with four mortars captured by that king, after which this part of the quay is called Carl XII’s Torg. (Steamers to Alkiirret, see p. 315. The)*Fountain in the centre of the grounds, also by Molin, is embellished with handsome bronze statues of northern river and marine gods. —- Nearly opposite the fountain, on the E. side of the grounds, rises the Dramatiska Teater (P1. 41; p. 315), erected in 1842. A little to the N. of the fountain rises the Statue of Charles XIIL, the least popular of all the kings of Sweden, erected by Charles XIV. John to the memory of his adoptive father. It was designed by Prof. Go'thc and cast at Paris. The handsome lions at the foot of the monument are by Fogelberg. —— To the N.W. of the statue, and adjoining the Hamn—Gata, is the building ‘of the *Konstfiirening (Pl. 19; E, 3), with Blanch’s Cafe’ (p. 312) on the ground-floor. The entrance to the picture-gallery of the Konst- f6rening, which deserves a visit (see p. 316), is on the W. side of the building,‘ in the Tradgirds-Gata. The collection consists of 21"‘ 324 Route 43. STOCKHOLM. Northern modern works by many of the most-eminent Swedish artists, some of which are the property of members, while others are for sale. A little‘ to the E. of the Kungstradgard, and adjoining the Hamn-Gate. and the Nybro, is the shady BERZELII PARK (Pl. E, 3), named after a Statue of Berz-elius (d. 1848), the chemist, by Qvarnstrom. Adjacent is Bern’s Salong, a favourite cafe’, where a band plays in the evening (p. 312). To the N.E. is situated the Ladugd'rdsland quarter of the city. To the S. of the Berzelii Park is the Varendorf Gata with the new *Synagogue (P1. 39; E, 3), de- signedby Prof. Scholander and erected in 1870. On the BLASIFHOLMS-HAMN, at the S. end of the Kungstrad- gard (Pl. E, F, 4), are situated the Grand Hotel (p. 311) and the National Museum (see p. 328). From the Gustaf—Adolfs-Torg (p. 323) diverge several of the most important streets in Stockholm, containing the best shops. To the W. runs the busy Fredsgata, at the end of which, on the right, is the Academie for de f'rz'a Konsterna (Pl. 1 ; D, 4), founded in 1735 for the education of painters and sculptors. Near it is the Post Office (P1. 33; D, 4). To the N.W. of the Fredsgata runs the long and well-built .Drottning-Gata, nearly parallel with which is the important Reger- ings- Gata, diverging from the Gustaf-Adolfs-Torg. Between these streets lies the Brunkebe'rgs- Torg (Pl. D, 3), which occupies the site of a considerable sand-hill, removed to make way for this market-place. At the S.E. corner is the Kung Karl Hotel (p. 311), and at No. 15 is the Slojdfhreningens-Museum (‘mechanical union’ ; adm., see p. 316). In the Beridarebans-Gata, a little to the N.W. of the Brunkebergs-Torg, is the Cent-ml Gymnastic Institution (P1. 17; D, 3), established in 1813 through the influence of ‘P. H. Ling (d. 1839). In the Master-Samuels-Gata, a few paces to the N.W., are the handsome Slojdskola. (P1. 38; I), 3), or Mechanical School, containing a library and collection of models (adm., see p. 316), andthe.Landtbmks—Academiens Museum, or Agricultural Museum (adm., see-p. 316). On the opposite side of the street, at the corner of the Beridarebans-Gata, is the Landtbruks-Academiens Bibliolek (Pl. 2; library open Wed. and Sat., 12-2). ' Between the Drottning—Gata and the Railway Station is situated theGlm-Kyrk-a (Pl. D, 3), erected in 1751-53 after the de- struction by fire of an earlier church founded in 1285. It contains sculptures by Sergel. (_ ‘Klockare’, Klara Vestra Kyrkogatan 14 A.) In the adjoiningchurchyard the poet Bellman (d. 1785; p. 338) li-es buried. . - In the Drottning-Gata_(No. 71, A, 0), about 7 min. to the N.W. of the Clara—K yrka, is situated the *Korthern Museum (Pl. 13 ,0, 2), a very interesting collection of Scandinavian curiosities, founded ‘by Dr. Arthur Hazelius in 1873. The ‘First Annex’, con- taining the Norwegiandepartment, .is at No. 45,, about 150 yds. Museum. STOCKHOLM. 43.12%“. 325 farther down the street on the same side, and the ‘Second Annex’ is at No. 79, a few doors above No. 71. The entrance to the principal collection is in the S. pavilion, No. 71 A. The attendants are women in the picturesque costumes of Darlecarlia. (Admission, see p. 316.) 1. Room. On the left, *Interior of a house in the district of Ingel- stad in the province of Skane, with figures in the costume of the end of last century; kitchen from the province of Halland, first half of this century; Vingcikerstuga from Sddermanland, 1820, with the figure of a girl receiving presents on the day of the third proclamation of her bans of marriage. On the opposite side of the room are glass cases contain- ing tools and various utensils, bridal trinkets, gloves, head-dresses, etc., chiefly of the 18th and 19th centuries. 4 11. Room. On the right is a glass press containing tankards, drink- ing cups, ornaments, tools, and several ‘pilehanka-r‘ and ‘pilebojar’, 0r ligatures made. of willow, and actually used by the peasantry as charms down to the present day. In the centre is a stand with 30 movable frames containing views and figures in curious and picturesque costumes. On the walls are primitive horse-collars, a Runic staff, tools, etc., chiefly from Smitland and ()stergiitland. III, Room. In glass-cases by the windows are bridal trinkets from Skane, including several of the silver spoons which brides wore suspended by chains, and afterwards used by the bride and bridegroom at table. IV. Boon. Group from the Harad of Vemmenhog in Skfine. Ancient looms and woven stuffs. We next visit the Non'rn PAVILION, on the other side of theGar- den. Entrance, Drottning-Gatan, 71, C The small room to the right of the entrance contains objects from Denmark, that on the left, articles of dress Worn by Swedish settlers in Finland and Esthonia. I. Room. On the left a glass-press with girls’ caps, head-dresses, trinkets, gloves, etc., from Helsingland. Opposite is a press with Wooden beer-tankards, wooden mortars for pounding coffee, a primitive hurdy- gurdy, and rustic horns. The presses on the other side of the room contain costumes, utensils, musical instruments, etc., from Finland. The 30 rotatory frames of the stand in the centre contain figures in German and Danish costumes. II. Room. On the right, a sledge said to have been once used by Charles XII. during his last campaign against Norway. Rustic group of five figures in Helsingland costumes. Another group, in costumes of the same district, representstwo lovers surprised by paterfamilias. Weaving looms from Lapland. In the glass—cases flanking the window-wall are (beginning from the entrance to the room) old armour,.weapons, and tools, numerous ‘bogskott’ (shoulder-pieces for horses) in elk-horn, curious pocket-knives, locks and keys, Runic staves, beggars’ clubs (which used to be given vto beggars to enable them to get relief at thevnext house they came to’), watchmen‘s staves, etc., from Helsingland. Then, from Herjedalen, a case with very miscellaneous contents, including a ‘pan ring’, made of pieces of wood placed edgewise, and used as a stand for hot pans; also a specimen of ‘fladb-ro'd‘ partly made of bark. Next from Jemtlalnd, Angermanland, Lapland and elsewhere, spoons, pouches, lad- les, dolls manufactured by Esquimaux women in Greenland; model, of a Greenland canoe, belts, ‘kastbrdder til fogelspil’ (a kind of game}, etc. III. Room. Costumes, etc., from Helsingland. Objects from Greer» land. Curious old horse-collars._ I ., _ . . _ We next visit the ‘First Annex’ , containing the Norwegian depart- ment. Entrance, Drottning-Gatan 45. (Admission, see p. .) . I. (ENTRANCE) Boon. Oki wood-carving. ._ 1 ._ i ' _ 11. Room. On the right numerous ‘rullejjofl‘ (pieces of, wood used for mangling linen by ,hand), some of them elaborately carved and painted; horse-collars; ornamental ,sledges, curious carved. cabinet of 326 Route 43. STOCKHOLM. Northern 1647 between the windows, with scenes from the creation, fall, and redemption of man; small cabinet carved in oak, 650', carved bedstead, 1667. In the centre a stand with 30 revolving frames containing Nor- wegian views and figures in national costume; and a figure of a Nor- wegian student, with his distinguishing cap and tassel. III. Room (to the left of the 2nd). Glass press containing wooden tankards, carved and painted. IV. Room. On the left, glass cases with embroidery, trinkets, belts, etc., then a rudely carved and painted bedstead; another glass case contains handsome old belts formerly worn in the Saztersdal. The glass cases by the windows are filled with powder-horns of the 16th-18th cen- turies, iron tools, knives, snuff-boxes, etc. In the centre and on the walls are old halberds, spears, and other weapons. Group of figures in the costume of l'helemarken. V. Room. On the walls and in the glass press are numerous wooden ale-bowls, painted and carved, some of them very large, the finest being in the press. In the glass case to the left of the press, stones used for smoothing linen, etc. Glass case to the right: carved boxes, ‘Tejer’ (a. kind of basket or sieve used for separating cheese from the whey), and two ‘Budstz'kker‘ (wooden cases for official messages, which the peasantry of each district were bound to carry to a certain point, where they were planted in the earth to await their conveyance through the next district). In the glass-cases by the windows, wooden spoons and butter- moulds, some of them tastefully carved; ale-goblets in the shape of geese and other birds, etc., chiefly of the 18th cent; then a number of ‘Eiskilskoppe’ (a kind of goblet) and ‘Koks’ (small vessels with handles). To the left of the windows is a ‘Kubbestol‘ (chair formed of a Kubbe or trunk of a tree), with a number of human teeth driven into it in accor- dance with a superstitious practice of thus disposing of decayed teeth for the purpose of warding off toothache in future. A glass case adjacent exhibits a fine collection of silver trinkets. Group from Numedalen. VI. Room. On the left a glass case with relics of the flint, bronze, and early iron periods; two others with old swords, axe-heads, etc. - A glass press with candlesticks and lamps. The ‘Second Annex’, containing a large and very miscellaneous collection, occupies the first and second floors of No. 79 Drottning-Gatan. (Admission, see p. . Fms'r FLooR. In the Vestibule a handsome old carved cabinet, 'finely adorned harness, equipments of a wolf-hunter in former days; female ornaments made of coins. Room I. On the right, uniforms, helmets, etc., chiefly of the 18th and 19th centuries. At the second window a curious old horse-bit found in 1634. On the adjacent wall are hung two old ‘lyktor‘ (lanterns) from a man-of-war. Between these stands a portrait-figure of Charles XII. Opposite the windows a leathern jacket worn by Gen. Akrett at the Battle of Leipsic. Room I]. On the right a glass press with goblets, powder-horns, seals, jewel-cases; on the second shelf from the top is a rude wooden ‘kdsa’ (a kind of bowl) with an ornamental handle resembling a screen, bearing baronial coats-of-arms, and dated 1681. By the door a kind of steelyard in wood. 1st Window: a distatf of 1727. Then a glass case with dolls and infants‘ clothing, 1600. Between the 2nd and 3rd win- dows: richly embroidered purses and pouches. 3rd Window: primitive stained glass, including ‘Daniel, 1503‘; old porcelain. On the adjoining wall a handsome mule-cloth in worsted-work with armorial bearings. In the centre two stands containing richl embroidered articles of dress, elaborate tapestry, curious old lace an needlework. Between these stands is another with 30 revolving frames exhibiting figures in French and other costumes. ‘ _ Room 111. (small room to the right of the entrance to the 2nd Room). Rich costumes and uniforms, including a ‘brudstubb’ (bridal petticoat) and a muff of 1700. (Perambulator used by Charles XV. when a child. Room IV. (beyond the 2nd Room). Handsome carved cabinets and ~Museum. ' STOCKHOLM. 43. Route. 327 chests-, oaken bedstead from Aalborg in Denmark; earthenware beer- mugs. To the left of the entrance to the next room, remains of the gun used by Vahlberg (d. 1856), the naturalist, in Africa. Room V. Opposite the windows a glass press with reminiscences of Gustavus III., Oscar 1., Charles XV., etc. — In the centre 30 revolving frames with portraits and autographs of celebrated Swedes. Room VI. Interesting collection of strong boxes or safes belonging to the various guilds of Stockholm. Those of the smiths, opposite the windows, have extraordinarily complicated locks (1727). That of the brassfounders by the entrance to the next room, is handsomely mount- ed in brass (‘1678). In the glass press, metal tankards and goblets and curious old money-boxes. Room VII. Guild-seals from various parts of Sweden. To the right, by the window, well-executed bookbinders’ stamps. In the door- way to the next room, bread-stamps, 17th century. Room VIII. Pottery and smith‘s work. Room IX. Four handsome embossed water—vessels in copper, 17th century. In the window a copper ‘kylbiicken‘ (cooling-vessel) and mortars, 16th and 17th centuries. In the glass-cases, brazen candlesticks, etc. —— On one of the walls are hung handsome old brazen bed-warmers. Sncom) FLOOR. Turning to the right, we enter the — 1st Room. On the right several ‘kafveldon’ (mangle-rollers), horse- collars, wooden steelyards. 2nd Window: wooden locks from Vermland. Harness-pins in bone, 1650. Glass-press with curiosities from Vermlandz, in the centre an iron candlestick used by itinerant musicians. 2nd Room. On the right, cowherd‘s horns and other rude instru— ments, almanac staves, a ‘skanfstock’ etc., then a ‘bykladd’ (parish re- gister), or staff inscribed with the names of 100 landowners in the vil- lage of Farnas and its public accounts down to 1857. 1st Window: numerous ‘kasstz'cka’ from Dalecarlia. 2nd Window: gorgeous bridal ornaments and trinkets. In the centre three glass-cases with remains of tools of the flint period. Opposite the windows: cradles, ironing stones, women’s caps, etc. Room from Rattvik in Delecarlia. 3rd Room (to the right of the entrance to the 2nd). Rustic costumes, distafl‘s, reels, and bobbins. 4th Room (beyond the 2nd). Locks; walking-sticks with metal handles used as axes; knife-cases. Group from Mora and Orsa in Dalecarlia. 5th Room. 2nd Window: a glass case containing carved wooden spoons and others with movable rings cut out of a single piece. On the right side of the window, several pan-rings. 3rd Window: Rude old horse-bits and portions of harness. Numerous horse-collars. In the centre, remains of ancient canoes. 6th Room. lst Window: several handsome ‘lunar’. In the window a ‘julbock‘ in straw (used as a plaything at ‘Yule’). In the centre a stand with 30 revolving frames with views and costumes. A collection of costumes, etc., also several ‘vdgglusbréider’, drilled with holes (‘bug- traps’). Runic staves from Uppland. 7th Room. Old book-bindings; carved reading—desk; church-stall from Ronneby near Karlshamn; several ‘nyckelharpor’ (‘key-harps’, elaborate stringed instruments). In the 8th Room, costumes, etc., in the 9th, ecclesiastical relics; in the 10th, figure of a convict in irons, wooden stocks, an executio- ner’s axe, etc. Just beyond the last-named collection the Rtirstrands-Gata diverges to the S.W., in which is situated the tasteful Gothic English Church (P1. 21 ; B, 2). On the right in the Drottning-Gata, nearly opposite the R61‘- strands—Gate, is the Academy of Science (Vetenskaps-Academi; Pl. 4; O, 1), founded by Swedish savants in 1739, and endowed by government in 1741. The first director was Karl v. Linne' Route 43. STOCKHOLM. National Museum. (Linnaeus,- 1707-78), the celebrated botanist. The academy now numbers 175 members, of whom 75 are foreigners. The building also contains the valuable *Natural History Collection, the property of the state, comprising numerous specimens of northern fauna, minerals, etc. (adm., see p. 316). a A few paces to the E. of the Academy of Science rises the Adolf-Fredriks-Kyrka (Pl. 0, 1, 2), designed by Adlercrantz, erect- ed in 1768-74, and containing an altar-piece (the Resurrection) in plaster, by Se'rgel. There is also a monument here to Descartes (d. at Stockholm, 1650), the famous French mathematician and philosopher, whose remains were removed to Paris in 1661. In the Drottning-Gata, on the left, a little beyond the Aca— demy of Science, is the handsome Technological Institute (P1. 46; .B, 1), designed by Prof. Scholander, and erected in 1863, adjoin- ing which is the Be'rgskola or School of ‘Mining. The library and collections of these establishments are open to the public on Mondays and Thursdays, 12-2 o’clock. On'a height at the end of the Drottning-Gata rises the Obser- vatory (Pl. B, 1), erected in 1748-52, commanding a fine view of the city (‘vaktmastare’ 25 vAbout 7min. walk to the E. of the Adolf-Fredriks-Kyrka, and the same distance to the N. of the Berzelii Park (p. 324), is situated the Humlegard (Pl. E, 1), a park laid out in the 17th cent., with fine old avenues, and, as its name imports, occupying the site of an old ‘hop-garden’. Near the S. side of this park rises the Riks-Bibliotek or National Library (P1. 11), designed by Dahl, and erected in 1870—76, containing upwards of 200,000 printed books and 8000 MSS. (admission, seep. 316). Among its treasures may be ‘mentioned the gigas librrorum, being a collection of 300 large charters and deeds on parchment, dating from the 9th-13th centuries; and a Latin Bible with notes made by Luther in 1529; both taken by the Swedes during the Thirty Years’ War, the for- mer from Prague, the latter from Wittenberg. THE NATIONAL Museum. At the 5. end of the vBlasieholm (p. 324) rises the *National Mu- seum (Pl. F, 4), designed by Stiller of Berlin, and erected in 1850- 65, a handsome edifice in the Renaissance style, with round- arched Venetian windows, and aportal of greenish Swedish marble. Over the portal are placed medallion-reliefs of six famous Swedish scholars and artists: F ogelberg, the sculptor; Ehrenstrahl, ' the painter; Linnaeus, the botanist; Tegnér, the poet; Wallin, the Qrientalist; and Berlzelius, the chemist; and statues of, Tessin, the architect, and Sergei, the sculptor. The museum comprises thefollowing collections: ion the '(iround Floor the Historical Mu- 8831111181111 the Cabinetof Coins‘,- on the First Floor the Drawings National Museum. STOCKHOLM. Route. 329 and Engravings, antique and modern Sculptures, and a collection of Armour and Weapons; on the Second Floor the Picture Gallery and Collection of Costumes. Admission, see p. 315; catalogues in the different departments, and at the entrance. On entering the handsome vestibule, where sticks and um- brellas are given up on the left (2 6. each), we observe three colos- sal statues of northern deities in marble by Fogelbe'rg : below, on the right, is Odin, on the left Thor, and above them Baldur. Op- posite the entrance a few steps descend to the -— Ground Floor, which contains the admirably arranged — **Hist0rical Museum, or Museum of Swedish Antiquities, an interesting collection of great value, founded in the 17th cent., and recently much extended by the efforts of Hr. Hildebrand. It now consists of all kinds of objects for domestic, agricultural, and ornamental uses, weapons, implements, etc., from the prehistoric period of Swedish culture down to the present time. A glass-door leads into the VESTIBULE, where a copy- of the excellent Catalogue by O. Montelius may be purchased (11/2kr.) The numbers in the catalogue are now, however, different from those on the objects themselves. Rooms 1. & 11. contain OBJECTS OF THE FLINT Pnnron, a prehistoric era when the use of metal was unknown, and when the primitive im- plements of the chase and others were made of flint, bone, or wood. The principal objects here are arrow-heads, axes, earthenware vessels, and amber-beads, most of which were discovered in ancient tombs. ‘(No ‘Kjekkenmeddinger‘, or kitchen-middens, like those in Denmark, have been found in Sweden.) Room 111. Press 137. Owners or‘ run Bnonzn Pnnroo, an epoch sup- posed to have begun in Sweden about a thousand years before Christ, when its inhabitants came for the first time into contact with the more civilised natives of Asia and S. Europe. They probably obtained their bronze from the south, and many of the relics exhibited here must have been imported in a finished condition (e. g. the shield E in the upper part of Press 2). Among the objects which are believed to be of Scan- dinavian manufacture, those of the earlier bronze-period are particularly well executed and tastefully ‘ornamented (as the axe M in the lower part of Press 2; the sword A in Case 22). The only other metal known at that period to the inhabitants of the north seems to have been gold (see Press 1, upper part; Case 11, by the window). Presses 38, and follg. OBJECTS OF THE IRON AGE. Shortly before the Christian era the Swedes became acquainted with iron and its uses (a metal which was known to the Egyptians between two and three thousand years, and to the Greeks upwards of one thousand years earlier). About the same period they also began to use silver, glass, ivory, and foreign coins, chiefly Roman, which last are especially valuable as they aid us in fixin the date of their probable introduction into the country. ‘The objects 0% the earlier iron period, and even those of native origin, are generally remarkable for their tasteful 'forms and refined ornamen- tation, a circumstance probably to be ascribed to the influence exercised by the‘ culture of the Roman imperial epoch even upon nations far be- yond the confines of the great empire‘. Several'imported Roman objects are to be seen (e. g.) in Press 3.9: A and B. Bronze vessels, F. Bronze statuette of Juno, J. Bull; in Press 43, glass goblets. Cases 47-56 contain gold trinkets of the earlier iron age: necklaces, rings, and gold ‘brac- teates’ (i. e. thin bracleae or plates of metal stamped on one side only, and used as ornaments), some of them bearing Runic inscriptions. 330 Route 43. 'STOGK‘HOLM. National Museum. Presses 91, .92,and Table .93, contain handsome swords, shield-knobs, etc., in bronze, silver, and iron. —- Under letter M, in Case 95, are four small slabs cast in bronze, probably belonging to a belt, and interesting on account of the figures of men and animals upon them, which afford us an idea of the costumes worn during the latest period of paganism. Here, too, are a number of handsome silver and bronze buckles. -- During the last centuries of the iron age (about A. D. 700-1050), after the decline of Roman influence, an entirely new and national taste gradually developed itself, its chief outcome consisting of rich ornamentation formed of flourishes, serpentines, and fantastic figures of animals. To this period belong the trinkets and other objects of the 9th-11th centuries in Cases 57-90. Numerous foreign coins, including Arabian, German, Bohemian, Dutch, Anglo-Saxon, and Irish (most of which, however, are preserved in the Cabinet of Coins, see below), are not merely reminiscences of the extensive foreign commerce once carried on by the Swedes, but doubt- less of the predatory expeditions of the Vikings also. —- The ANTIQUITIES FROM THE ISLAND OF GOTLAND are exhibited in separate cases: Nos. 121- 132. Early Iron Period; Nos. 133-138. Later Iron Period. The following rooms, dedicated to medieeval and modern times, are less interesting than the first three. MEDIJEvAL or ROMAN CA'rnoLIo PERIOD (about 1050-1527). ROOM IV.: Censers, crucifixes, reliquaries, chalices, patens, brooches, sacerdotal vestments, parchments and seals, partisans, swords. — ROOM V, a sunken apartment, divided like a church into nave, aisles, and choir by means of eighteen pillars, contains tombstones with R-unic and other inscrip- tions, fonts, choir-stalls, carved shrines, crucifixes and other objects in carved wood, stained glass, etc. MODERN PERIOD (from the Reformation down to the present day). Rooms VI & VIL: Furniture, implements, trinkets, orders, silver-plate (thus D, C, in Press 3, two goblets presented by the town of Nurem- berg to Gustavus Adolphus in 1631), bridal crowns (Press 3), enamels, crystals, etc., together with numerous memorials of Swedish monarchs, from Gustaf Vasa downwards. The CABINET or CoINs is also on the ground-floor. A number of medals are exposed to view in glass-cases, but most of the coins are kept in presses, and are shown by special permission only. We now return to the staircase, pass the ‘Garderobe’ on the first landing, ascend the white marble steps to the — First Floor, and enter by a door on the left. Room I. Engravings and Drawings. The Collection of Engra- vings (catalogue 25 6.), the foundation of which consists of the Crozat Collection purchased at Paris in the first half of the 18th cent. by Count Tessin, the architect (pp. 318, 332), now numbers upwards of 80,000 plates. ' In the glass-cases are exhibited the most valuable: 24. School of Marc Antonio, Engraving from part of Michael Angelo‘s famous cartoon of the ‘Soldiers Bathing" (‘the climbers‘); 32-43. A. Da'irer (34. Knight, death, and the devil, 1513; 35. Adam and Eve, 1504; 36. Melancholy, 1514; 38. Great happiness); 63. Lucas van Leg/den, Dance of Mary Magdalene; 172-181. Rembrandt (172. The celebrated ‘hundred-florin plate‘, Christ healing the sick), etc. The Drawings, particularly those of the Netherlands Schools, are also very valuable. - Among them should be noticed a large and admirable portrait by Lucas van Leyden; about a dozen genuine drawings by Rubens (including a study for the Rustic Dance and busts of Ferdinand and Francesco Gonzaga), nearly as many by Van Dyck, rare and excellent (an English ‘couple, Crucifixion of St. Peter, C. van Geest, etc.)-, a series of very National Museum. sTocKHoLM. 43. Route. 331 clever sketches by Adr. Brouwe-r, D. Tenders, and Adr. can Ostade, and above all about 50 admirable and important drawings by Rembrandt. Of these last, ten are exposed to view, and the others are kept in port- folios. They are chiefly sketches for pictures (Christ appearing to Mary, for his picture at Brunswick; Sacrifice of Manoah, at Dresden; Abra- ham‘s Sacrifice, at St. Petersburg, etc.); also a portrait of Titia van Ulenburgh, his sister-in-law (1639), and several valuable studies. Room II. CERAMIC CoLLnc'rIoN. Chinese porcelain; majolica from Urbino and other Italian manufactories, chiefly purchased by N. Tessin (p. 318) in Italy at the end of the 17th cent.; in the centre a large Moorish-Spanish vase; lastly French, Dutch, Ger- man, and Swedish pottery and porcelain. Room III. The Collection of Sculptures (catalogue 50 6.) begins here. This room contains ANTIQUES. Chiefly busts of the Roman imperial epoch, most of them being portraits (66. Bust of Apollodoros, an Athenian, with a Greek inscription, curious). Then: 45. Colossal bust of Venus. The gem of the collection is in the centre: *1. Sleeping Endymion, in Parian marble, excavated in Hadrian‘s Villa at Tivoli in 1783, and purchased by Gustavus III. —- Handsome Candelabra and a fine Marble Vase. Also a collection of vases and small antiques. RooM IV. BRONZES, chiefly modern copies. Among the few Renaissance works here is, in the centre, N0. 35".). Psyche borne by three Amorettes (from Prague, supposed to be a work of the school of A. de Vries). Also carved wood, ivory, and amber. Room V. The principal ANTIQUES are exhibited here. They are all in the Gratco-Roman style of the empire, and many of them are marred by restoration. Nos. 3-12. Apollo (h'tharaedus and the Nine Muses (Nos. 8 dz 10 parti- cularly good); 2. Athena; 201-221. Greek Tombstones,- 228-236. Roman Tomb- stones. In the centre: *178. Fountain, with an interesting relief relating to Romulus and Remus; 179. Handsome Rhyton (drinking-vessel) in marble. Room VI. , a large saloon containing CASTS, with a fine view from the windows. (The following rooms also comm and good views.) ROOM VII. MODERN Swnmsn SoULr'rUnns , comparatively un- interesting to those who have seen the Thorvaldsen Museum at Copenhagen. Nos. 357-372. Johan Tobias Sergel (1740-1814; founder of the Swedish school of sculpture; in the centre, 359. Psyche, trying to detain Cupid, his master-piece; 362. Colossal bust of Gustavus III., to whose court the sculptor was invited); 373-376. Erik Gustaf Go'the (1779-1838); 377-389. Johan Niklas Bystro'm (1783-1848; a pupil of Sergei); 390, 391, 395, 396. Bengt Erland Fogelberg (1786-1854; No. 391 the best); 397. Carl Gustaf Qvarnstrb'm (1810-67); 398-401. Johan Peter Mols'n (1814-73); several works by J. Bb'rjesson. No. 403. Hylas, by Bissen, a Dane; 404. Magdalena, by Ant. Novella‘ of Florence (d. 1662); 604. Copy by A. Gille ‘of a colossal bust of Alexander v. Humboldt by David d’Angers. Room VIII., a small apartment containing casts and models by Sergel and other Swedish sculptors. The Collection of Armour, which we next enter, occupies four small rooms and a large hall borne by columns, and consists of suits of armour and weapons which once belonged to Swedish monarchs and heroes. Some of these possess artistic value (eques- trian suit of John 111., embossed suit of Charles IX., etc.). In the-centre of the large hall are pistols, swords, etc., which be- 332 Route 43. STOOKHOLM. National Museum. longed to Gustavus Adolphus. The walls are hung with old Swe— dish flags and standards. The exit from the great hall leads into the vestibule. ' On the left side of the Armoury Hall is a door leading to the sunken fllppg, containing the small Egyptian Collection (adm. Tues. and Frid., Another marble staircase ascends to the —— Second Floor, nearly the whole of which is occupied by the *Pioture Gallery (upwards of 1300 works; catalogue 50 6.), a col— lection formed chiefly during last century. In ‘1750 the palaces and chateaux of Stockholm contained 330 of these pictures. The collection was greatly enriched by Queen Louisa Ulrica, a sister of Frederick the Great, with the aid of Count Carl (1)‘. Tessin, the Swe- dish ambassador at Paris, and by her son Gustavus 111. From that period in particular dates the valuable series of decorative paintings of the French School. The Italian pictures consist of the Martelli Collection, purchased at Rome in 1798, and a smaller collection purchased there at a later date. On the occasion of the transference of these collections to the National Museum, as well as subsequently, they were enriched with presentations by patrio- tic societies and private donors. Although containing many valuable works, the gallery is far from being a choice collection, and the removal of about one-half of the 1050 pictures by the earlier masters would be a positive gain. The catalogue, moreover, is far 'from trustworthy , parti- .cularly with respect to the names of the more famous masters. (It is, however, now undergoing critical revision.) The majority of the German, Spanish, and Italian works are of little value, but the French school of last century is better represented here than in any other gallery out of Paris. To this department belong a num- ber of valuable large works by Desportes, Oudry, hBoucher, and ‘Natoire, and several cabinet-pieces by Chardi'n and Lancret. —— Several of the best Dutch masters of the 17th cent. are also repre- sented by admirable works : Rembrandt by his ‘Ziska’ and ‘Cook’, Rubens by his two copies from Titian, and Snyders, Jordaens, Fyt, Steen, Ochter-velt, Hooch, Wynants, Wouwerman, Don, Van Goyen, ' and Ostade by pictures of great merit. The gallery also possesses a number of interesting works by rare masters, the value of which is chiefly historical. The entrance to the Ante-Room (p. 336) from the staircase is flanked with two antique columns brought from Italy by Gus- tavus lII. ; passing through it, we turn to the right and enter the rooms of the old masters. The pictures are all furnished with the names of the painters. The ITALIAN Ann SPANISH SCHOOLS occupy a saloon lighted from above and six cabinets adjoining it. ' ‘ t‘ " , SALOON. Right‘ side: 133. Leandra Bassano, Festival of Cleopatra; Titian (?), Portrait of Don Carlos; 204. Titian (a work in the style National Museum. STOCKHOLM. 43. Route. 333 of P. Aerlsen, and probabl of the Dutch school), Portrait of a girl; 11. Caravaggio (‘2), Judith. — rd CABxNE'r: three small pictures by Tiepolo, sketches for the decorative works in the Scuola dei Carmini at Venice. A room beyond the last saloon chiefly contains GERMAN AND EARLY DUTCH PICTURES. ' Nos. 260, 261. B. Denner, Portraits of an old man and an old wo-- man; 507, 508. Jan Massys, Venus and the amorous old man (1566). - 257. L. Granach, Charles V. and John Frederick of Saxony hunting. —— 370. Jan Brueghel, The market (1609). — 1080. L. Cranach, Senr., Lu- cretia (1528). ' We next reach the NETHERLANDISH‘SCHOOL, which occupies a saloon lighted from above and five adjoining cabinets. SALOON. Wall of the entrance: 595. Rubens (studio-piece), Four fathers of the church; 608. Rubens, Esther and Ahasuerus (a sketch); ‘i607. Rubens, Daughters of Cecrops finding Erichthonius (a sketch); 638. Snyders, Eagles fighting over their prey; 596. Rubens, Susanna in the bath; Rubens, Samson slaying the lion (a sketch); 424. B. Fabrz'tius, The alchymist; *404. Van Dyck, St. Jerome (an early work); 416. Th. Wyck (not Ph. van Dyck), Italian farm; W599. Rubens, Sacrifice to Fertil- ity, and Ariadne in Naxos, copied by Rubens in 1601-8 from Titian‘s famous works then at Rome, but now at Madrid; 386. A. Cuyp, Family portrait (1661); 581, *582. Rembrandt, Portraits, erroneously called those of the artist’s parents (1655). —- 2“i578. Rembrandt, The oath of John Ziska (perhaps rather an Old Testament subject), of great breadth and very effec- tive, but unfinished‘, the master's largest Work after the Night Watch at Amsterdam (about 1654); 462. Isaac van Rug/sdael (attributed to Hobbema), Cottage among trees. *471. P. de Hooch, The letter; 616. Jacob v. Ruysdael, Forest-path; Rembrandt, ‘Portrait of his cock‘ (1651); *583. Rem- brandt, Portrait of Saskia van Ulenburgh, the master’s bride (1632); 510. G. Metsu, Card-players (retouched); *430. F. Floris (assigned to F. Franck-en), Sea-gods; 512. G. Melsu, The smithy, a decorative picture of his early period; 408. P. o. Somer (assigned to Van Dyck), Portrait of the Duchess of Cleveland; 500. P. Laslman, Sacrifice to Juno; 637. Snyders, Still life; 577. Pynacker, Waterfall. — *478. C. Huysmans, Trees by the road-side; 636. Snyders, Dogs fighting for their food; 488. Jordaens, Adoration of the Shepherds (1618); 464. Hoeckgeesl, Interior of the church of St. Ursula at Delft; ""‘433. Fyl, Deadgame (1651); *1159. Jordaens, King Candaules tempt- ing Gyges; *682. S. de Vlieger, Oak-wood; 420. G. 'v. d. Eeckhoul (‘2), La— bourers in the vineyard: 466. Gilles d‘Hondecoeter, Orpheus; *639. P. de Vos (assigned to Snyders), Stag-hunt; J. v. Artoz's, Large, wooded Flemish landscape; 486. K. du Jardz'n, Portrait of H. van Huteren (1674); 539. Th. de Keyser (‘2 assigned to C. Netscher), Family portrait; 398, 399. H. Dubbels, Stormy sea; 534. Moeyaert, Preaching of John the Baptist (1631); 353. J. Bockhorst, The four Evangelists. I. CABINET: 423. B. Fabrs'tius, Family at table (1650); 1046. G. Horst, Meeting of Jacob and Esau (1641); *418. G. v. d. Eeckhout, The satyr and the peasant; 442. J. v. Gog/en, Halt by a farm; 588. Moeyaert, The argggl leaving Tobias; 579. Rembrandt, St. Anastasius in his cell (1631); . Rembrandt, Portrait of a young man (ca. 1638); 421. A. v. Everds'ngen, Norwegian fjord (1648); 1167. G. Neg/ts, Landsca e(1641); J. v. Goyen, View of Dordrecht (1655): ‘473. P. de Hooch, oman by a cradle. 11. CABINET: 310. C. Bega, Music-lesson (1663); 356. R. Brakenburgh, The dance (1699); 343, 549, 554. A. v. Ostade, Small portraits; *1117. J. v. Staveren, Old woman reading (1638); *618. J. v. Ruysdael, View of a sea- side place from the downs (an early work); 647. J. Steen, Card-players; 630. A. M. Schurman, Portrait of herself; 1075. C. Saftleven, Landscape with cattle (1630); *1120. J. de Bray (‘2 not unlike F. Hals), Flute-player; *550. A. v. Ostade, Peasants amusing themselves near the house-door (1660). —— 551. A. 'v. Ostade, Advocate at his study-table (1664). III, CABINET: 304, 305. P. v. Asch, Landscapes; *658. Ochtervelt ‘(as- cribed to G. Terburg), Concert; 453, 1181. G. D. de .Heem, Still hie;- 334 Route 43. STOCKHCLM. National Museum. 1143. Wynants, Ride-rs on the downs at sunset; 394. G. Dou, Portrait of the artist; 672. W. v. d. Velde, Rough sea; 357, 358. Q. Brekelenkam, Genre pieces; 390. D. 0. Delen, Part at table in a drawing-room (1631); 393. G. Dou, Penitent Magdalene; . Pynacker (assigned to Asselyn), Italian landscape. IV. CABINET: 485. K. du Jardt'n, Cattle pasturing (1657); 717. Ph. Wou- werman, Fishermen on the coast; 312. N. Ber-chem, Cattle by the sea (me- diocre, as are also 313, 315-317, by the same master); 712, 715. Ph. Wou- werman, Riding-school, Village-market (both retouched); 695. Th. Wyck, Halt by a tavern; *709, 714. Ph. Wouwerman, Winter-scene, The bridge (the latter retouched). V. CABINET: 603. Rubens, Susanna in the bath (small); *701, 702. Jan Wouwerman, Summer and Winter (landscapes); 654, "653. D. Tent'ers, Junr., Rustic tavern (1661), Four smokers at a table (about 1648); 1101. Jan Parcellt's, Rough sea; 407. Fr. Francken (‘.l), Rubens‘s picture-gallery. Passing through the saloon , and turning to the left, we regain the staircase, from which a doorway, opposite that of the picture- gallery, and also flanked with two antique columns, leads to the left into a room containing the CoLLEoTIoN or Cos'rUMEs or SWED- 18H KINGS AND QUEENS, chiefly coronation and gala-attire, to- gether with a few uniforms and memorials of various kinds. The memorials of Gustavus Adolphus consist of some of the blood- stained clothes worn by him during his battles in W. Prussia, the sheet in which his body was wrapped after the battle of Liitzen, and the horse ridden by him when he fell on 6th Nov. 1632. Among the other curio- sities are the well-known blue coat of Charles XIL, his yellow waist- coat, yellow breeches, and huge boots, and the hat pierced by the bullet which caused his death in the trenches of Fredrikshald on 30th Nov. 1718 (p. 275). The fancy-costume of Gustavus HI. recalls his assassination on 16th March, 1792 (p. 323). Returning to the staircase, we next visit a Saloon lighted from above and five cabinets containing the FRENCH PIoTUEEs. SALOON: Jouvenet, St. Bruno; *845. Pater, Woman skating; *884. H. Rigaud, Bust-portrait of Cardinal Fleury; 891-897. Cl. J. Vernet, Land- scapes of no great interest; also a number of others by his still more insipid contemporaries Loutherbourg and Bruandet. By Jean Bapt. Char- din: 780. Washerwoman, 781. Girl at the well (1733), 785. Still life, etc. (all genuine, but few of them rising beyond mediocrity). Then, *874. Pater, The bathers; *846. Largz'lh'ere (7), Louis XV., full-length figure. Fr Boucher, “770. Triumph of Galatea, perhaps the artist‘s master-piece (1740); 768. Toilet of Venus (1746); *769. Venus and the Graces bathing; *771. Leda and the swan. Then, 793. Noe'l Nic. Cggégel, Judgment of Paris (1728); 854. Le Moyne, Venus and Adonis (1729); . H. Rs'gaud, Portrait of Charles XII. in full uniform; 861-872. J. B. Oudry, the finest being *867. Great stag-hunt, an admirable work; 1313. A. Pesne, Portrait of Ch. Fred. Sparre (1744); 830. Claude Lorrat'n (‘2), Large Italian landscape at sunset; 788, 789. Bourguignon, After the battle, The battle-field, com- panion-pieces; 1072. S. Bourdon, Portrait of Queen Christina of Sweden; “798, 799. Fr. Desportes, Senr., Large still-life pieces (1729); also several other good decorative pictures by the same master. 1. CABINET: *1099. Jan Brueghel, Bouquet; *326, 327. A. v. Beyeren, Dead fish; 454, 455. C. de Heem, Still life. II. CABINET: “640. F. Snyders, Still-life piece with vases; 562. J. v. Cappelle, Calm sea (1646). V. CABINET: 778, etc. Chardtn; 772. Fr. Boucher, The toilet (1746); 773. Fr. Boucher, ‘Pense-t-il au raisin” (1747); 843, 844. Lancret, The swing, Blind-man‘s-bufl'. . . _ Traversing the Saloon and proceeding in a straight direction, we reach afcorridor, leading to four rooms dedicated to the EARLY National Museum. STOCKHOLM. 43. Route. 335 SWEDISH MASTERS, the most distinguished of whom was Dav. Klb- ker Ehrenstrahl 1629-98). Several portraits by him (948-952) are in the fourth room. — Beyond these rooms is a cabinet con- taining WATER CoLoUnS AND MINIATUEES. —— We next inspect the works of the — ModernNorthern Schools, which may be more correctly describ- ed as offshoots of the Schools of Diisseldorf, Munich, and Paris. The Norwegian artists in particular, with few exceptions, have been trained in Germany, where most of them have usually resided, although they have derived their subjects from their native coun- try. 80 Similar is their style to that of the Germans, that Tide— mand, Gude, Munthe, and others are usually claimed as members of the German school. About half of the Swedish masters, on the other hand, have gone for their art-education to Paris, and the rest to Germany. The former have as yet produced few great works, while the latter resemble the average German painters of modern times. A few Danish masters are also represented here. This de- partment of the gallery occupies a saloon lighted from above, the six adjacent cabinets, and the ante-chamber. The following list comprises works by the more eminent of these artists, whose na- tionality is indicated by the letters 8., N., and D. SALooN: Left side: 1027. H. A. L. Wahlberg (8., born in 1834), Winter landscape with bear-hunt; 1297. B. Nordenberg (8., b. 1822) Wedding in Varend; 1138. G. Wickenberg (8., 1812-46), Dutch coast; 1 . J. E.Bergh (8., b. 1828), Swedish forest; 999. B. Nordenberg, Tithe-day in Skfine; 1155, 1237. Wahlberg, Swedish landscape, Landscape from the Eifel (Rhen— ish Prussia); 1223. J. A. Malmstro'm (8., b. 1829), Dance of elves by moonlight; 1296. C. G. R. Cederstrb'm (8., b. 1841), Epilogue. — End-wall: 1154. G. v. Rosen (8., b. 1843), King Eric XIV. with Catharine Mfinsdotter and Giiran Persson. —- Side-wall: 944. Charles XV. (d. 1872), Swedish land- scape; 1275. Morten Mz'iller (N., b. 1828), Norwegian landscape; Ad. Tide- mand (N., 1814-77), The fanatics; 937. J. E. Bergh, Swiss landscape; 1025. C. H. d‘Unker (8., 1828-66), Third-class Waiting-room; F. So'rensen (D.), Storm on the Norwegian coast; 938. J. E. Berg/2., Landscape in Smaland; 1056. F. J. Fagerlt'n (8., b. 1825), Jealous . I. CABINET: 955. Fahlcrantz (8., 1774-1861), View of Kalmar Castle by moonlight; 1242. J. W. C. Wahlbom (8., 1810-58), Death of Gustavus . Adolphus. II. CABINET: 1208. J. F. Hockert (8., 1826-66), Warrior of the 17th cent.; 1244. G. Wickenberg, Winter scene; 1279. Melbye (D., b. 1818), Sea-piece. III. CABINET (Norwegians): 1267. C. Hansen, The visit; 1263. H. F. Gude (b. 1825; now at Berlin), Among the rocky islands (Skjoergaard), old seaman and boy; 1266. Gude, Mountain-landscape in Wales; 1264, 1265. Gude, Breakers; 1273. L. Munthe (b. 1828), Winter-landsca e; 1264. Gude, Outside the Skjaergaard, a ilot-boat and sailing vessel; 1 5. C. Hansen, Peasant family mourning: 1 36. Hansen, A dangerous witness; 1311. E. Pet- ersen, Scholar of the 15th century; 1343. Grade, Sea-piece; 1277. A. Tide- mand, Fortune-teller and Dalecarlian peasant-woman. IV. CABINET: 1207. J. F. Ho'ekert, Wedding in Lapland; 1245. Wicken- berg, Landscape with cattle; 1322. C. H. d‘Unlcer, Gipsy-family. V. CABINET: 1113. D. Helm, Swedish forest; 1225. B. Nordenberg, The worried sheep, rustic interior in Dalecarlia. VI. CABINET: 954. Fagerlin, Fisher-boys smoking; 1210. Aug. Jemberg, The broken ipe; 1112. Agnes Bo'rjesson (8., b. 1827), Old love; 1204. Fa- gerlin, The (yonva-lescent; 1293. G. v. Rosen, Portrait; 1059. G. Rydberg, Landscape. 336 Route 43. sTooKHoLM. Br'iltespiinnare. — We now return through the Saloon to the ANTE~R00M, where the most recent purchases are usually hung. Also 1247-1250. M. E. Wlnge (S., b. 1825), Scenes from northern mythology; 1222. Malmstr'o'm, Ingeborg receiving tidings of Hjalmar’s death; 1026. Wahlberg, Swedish landscape. -- Regaining the staircase, we descend and quit the building. The open and partially planted space in front of the N.W. fa- cade of the National Museum is embellished with the *Biiltespiin- nare (‘girdle-duellists’), an admirable group in bronze, the master— piece of Molin, the talented Swedish sculptor. ‘It represents one of those murderous old Scandinavian duels in which the comba- tants were bound together with their ‘belts’ and proceeded to fight out their battle with their knives. As these ‘Knivgange’ often ter- minated fatally to one or even both the duellists, the women used to carry a winding-sheet for their husbands to banquets where quarrels were likely to arise (comp. Pontoppidan’s ‘Ferste Forseg paa Norges naturlige Historic’, Copenhagen. 1752; and ‘Fani— tullen’, a Norwegian poem by Moe). The four reliefs on the ped— estal, with their Runic inscriptions from the Edda, represent the origin and the issue of the combat. 1. JEALOUSY. ‘Galna frdn kloka go'rer menn'iskors so'ner ban den mak- tlga ka'rleken’. _(‘Mighty love makes fools of wise sons of men’.) — 2. DRINKING. ‘Ar z'kke sit godt, som godt (dc) saga, at (for) mennz'skors so‘ne'r; ty allt mindre vet, som mer dricker, till silt sa'nne mannen’. (‘Not so good as good they say it is, is ale for the sons of men; for the man knows in his mind always less, the more he drinks‘.) -- 3. BEGINNING OF THE COMBAT. ‘Drogo de ur skidan skidejern, sve'irdets eggar till behag (for) trollen’. (‘They draw the knife out of the sheath, the edge of the sword, to the satisfaction of the evil spirit’.) —— 4. Tun Wlnow’s LAMENT.‘ ‘Ensam d'r jag vorden som asp z‘ lunden, fatts'g pd frc'inder som fm'an pd qm'stao". (‘Solitary am I become, like the aspen in the grove, poor in relations, as the fir in branches’). S5DERMALM. The least interesting part of the town is the StinnRMALM, or S. quarter, situated on the mainland beyond the ‘Sluss’, the bridge connecting it with the Stad. Its situation, however, is pictur- esque, and it is built on the natural undulations of the rock. One of the principal streets bears the characteristic name of Bes'vri'rs— gata (‘fatigue street’). The chief attraction to travellers in this part of the town , and one that should not be missed , is the view from the Mosebacke, to which we now direct our steps. At the S. end of Staden lies the Sluss-Plan (tramway ter- minus, see p. 314), adjoined on the W. by the Kornhamn-Torg, and on the S. by the Sliderst'rbm, an efi'lux of Lake M'alaren, through which smaller vessels pass by means of a‘Sluss’ (‘lock’ or ‘sluice’). This channel is crossed by two iron bridges, leading to the Slider- malm , and commanding a view of the busy market-traffic in the neighbourhood. Between the bridges lies an open space called theCarl-Johans- Torg, embellished with an equestrian "Statue of Charles XIV. John (Pl. E, 6), erected by Oscar I. in 1854. The Environs. STOCKHOLM. 43. Route. 337 monument, which represents the king in the costume of a Swe- dish marshal, was designed by Fogelberg. Crossing the E. part of the bridge, and the broad quay beyond it in a straight direction, we ascend the Stora Glasbruks-Gata, a lane to the left, for 150 paces, ascend a flight of 126 wooden steps to the right, turn to the left at the top, and then to the left again, and thus reach the entrance to the *Mosebacke (P1. 29; F, 7; about 25 min.‘ from the Gustaf-Adolfs-Torg; Restaurant ,- admission to see the *View, when no refreshments are ordered, 10 6.). A small garden and terrace within the grounds of the café afford an admirable survey of Stockholm and its environs. At our feet lies the Baltic with its busy trafflc. Among the buildings in the city, the Palace and the National Museum are the most conspicuous. To the right lies the Djurgiirdstad and the beautiful park beyond it, above which rises the conspicuous Belvedere Tower; and to the left stretches Lake M'eilaren. * The building facing the Mosebacke- Torg, to which the cafe and the terrace belong, is the Siidra- Teater (Pl. 43). A little to the SE. rises the handsome Katarina-Kyrka (Pl. F, 7), founded in 1659 on the spot where the victims of the ‘Stockholm Blood- bath’ of 1520 had been interred, and rebuilt in the Renaissance style in 1724. From this church the Tjarhofs-Gata leads to the E. in 1/4 hr. to the Danvik , whence a small steamer runs hourly on the Hammarby-Sjii to Nacka, a favourite holiday-resort of the Stockholmers (p. 342). Environs. Both the immediate and more remote environs of Stockholm afford a great variety of beautiful walks and excursions, and most of the points of interest may be reached expeditiously, cheaply, and pleasantly by one or other of the numerous little steamers which flit about in every direction, both on the Baltic and Lake Malaren. The most attractive place near the city is the charming Djurgdrd or Park (‘deer—garden’), to which steamers ply every 10-15 min. from the Strbmparterre, Karl XII.’s Torg, the Rantmtistare-Trappa, and the Nybro (in 8-10 min.; comp. p. 314). It may also be reached by tramway-car from Slussen, via Gustaf-Adolfs—Torg, Karl XII.’s Torg, Grefbron, and the Ladugardlands Strand-Gate. Excursionists by steamer should observe that Alkéirret is the start- ing-point for the boats to .Karl XII.’s Torg and the Strtimparterre, the points nearest the hotels; while the boats from the Allmc'inna- Griind (Pl. H, I, 5, 4) land their passengers at Staden and the Skeppsholm. Instead, however, of proceeding direct to the Park, we cross the ,Skeppsholms-Bro, leading from the National Museum to the Sheppa- holm (Pl. F, .G, 4, 5), a smallisland containing some of the chief BAnnExnR’s Norway and Sweden. 2nd Edit. 22 338 Route 43. DJURGARD. Environs military and naval establishments of Stockholm. -— A monument has been erected here in commemoration of the Polar Expedition conducted by Prof. Erik Nordenskjdld in 1878-80. Passing the Karl-Johans-Kyrka on the left, and several hand- some barracks on the right, a pleasant shady road leads to the S.E. to a wooden bridge by which‘we cross to the small Kastellholm or Castle Island, which also contains several barracks and other build- ings. The *Tower on the highest point of this island commands an admirable view of the environs ‘vaktmastare’, or one of the sailors on guard, 50 6.; ascent of 94 steps, and then by an iron ladder of 8 steps more). 9 Retracing our steps to the bridge, we cross it and turn to the right, soon reaching the little steam ferry-boat which plies every few minutes between the Skeppsholm and the Allmanna-Grand. Crossing to the latter (which is also the tramway-terminus, p. 314), we pass through the small suburb of Djurgfcrds-Stad, and thus reach the —- *Djurgard, a delightful park, of which Stockholm is justly proud, with pleasant villas, and beautiful walks in every direction. It occupies an island 2 Engl. M. in length, and 3/4 M. in width at its broadest part,‘and was laid out by Gustavus III. and Charles XIV. John, having originally been a deer—park, as its name imports. Opposite Alkt'irret, a small plats planted with trees, where most visitors land, is Hammer’s Villa, which formerly belonged to By- striim, the sculptor; beyond this, to the left, is the small Djur- gdrds- Teater, near which the tramway passes. Opposite the All— manna—Gr‘and, and a few paces to the S.E. of Alk'airret, is the entrance to *Hasselbaeken (p. 311), the largest and best of the nu- merous cafes and restaurants situated here. The grounds command fine views and contain an oak (‘Bellmans Elc’) under the shade of which Karl Michael Bellman (d. 1795), the most genial and popular of Swedish poets, composed some of his charming songs. In the vicinity is a bronze statue of the poet, by Nystriim, erected in 1872. Leaving the Hasselbacke, and passing several other cafes, marionette theatres, and places of popular entertainment, we follow the road to the E. and reach the open park, with its grassy glades, rocky knolls, and beautiful trees, between which glimpses of the Baltic and Stockholm are frequently obtained. On the left, a little beyond the Djurgards—Stad, is a beautiful spot called Bellmans-Ro, with a bust of the great poet and improvisatore, many of whose most beautiful ballads are said to have been made extempore and without effort. The bust (by Bystriim, erected in 1829) is the scene of great festivities on 26th July, the anniversary of its erection, when crowds of the poet’s admirers of all classes assemble here to recite his poetry and 6113011118 genius. Among the most famous and beautiful of his lines are the following; --- 43?. :{wv ~.\\\ ., . Q ,_;:\>_‘:___.).,_:W ‘ .Qfimfiw v1.1}: /. , > . . . \ .5 .w. \xr .v:\:t1 m. 132720 A; , 1 i?“ ‘ r I -'..~ ' __ __ Wests-{'15 T‘P'S'Qflfujym '~ a , E N. v I: a, o f “s‘ 01‘ §wmxzmm J l ‘ " k Sralc l 1 100.000 9 'of Stockholm. DJURGARD. 43. Route. 339 Hvila vid denna kall'a'. Himmel! hvad denna runden, Vfir lilla frukost vi framstalla: - Af friska loftran sammanbunden, Rodt vin med pimpinella Vidgar en plan i lunden Och en nyss skjuten beckasin. Med strodda gfingar och behag! Klang, hvad buteljer, Ulla! Ljufligt der lofven susa, I vfira korgar, ofverfulla, I svarta hvirflar, grd. och ljusa, Tomda i graset rulla — Traden en skugga krusa Ack kann, hvad fingan dunster fin! Inunder skyars flakt och drag. Ditt middagsvin, Tag, Ulla, tag, Sku vi ur krusen halla Vid denna mfiltidsstunden, Med gladtig min. Ditt glas som jag! Hvila vid denna kalla! Himmel! hvad denna runden Hor vfira valdthorns klang, kusin! Bepryds af blommor, tusen slag. Beyond Bellmans—Ro, on the right, is Frisens-Park, another beautiful part of the Djurgiird. Farther on, 25 min. walk ‘from Hasselbacken, is Manilla, alarge asylum for the blind and the deaf and dumb (shown Thursdays, 11-1; ‘h'zir ser man illa, h'ar hor man illa, och her talar man illa’, say the local wits). About 1/4 hr. farther is Blockhus Udden, a custom-house station at the E. end of the island. From Manilla we may cross the island and the narrow Djurgdrds-Vik to (1/4 hr.) Djurgdrdsbrunn, formerly a small watering-place, with an inn, which is still a favourite resort (steamer every 1/2 hr. to the Logards-Trappa, 156.). _ Thence We may walk through beautiful park-scenery, still belonging to the Djurgfird in the wider sense of the name, to the N. to (20 min.) the Lidz'ngo-Bro, another pretty spot, with an inn. The long wooden bridge, where the Ulriksdal steamboats (p. 341) touch frequently, crosses to the Lidingo. A direct road leads back from the bridge to the Norrbro, 21/2 Engl.-M. distant. - On the N. side of the Djurgard, a few hundred paces from the bridge crossing to Djurgardsbrunn, is Rosendal, a royal villa built by Charles XIV. John, with orangeries and hot—houses. At the back of the villa, on the N. side, stands a magnificent modern Porphyry Vase, of antique form, 81/2 ft. high and 111/2 ft. in diameter, and said to weigh 23/4 tons. Adjoining the grounds of Rosendal on the W. is the garden of the Triidgdrds - Forming, or horticultural so- ciety, in which some travellers will be interested. A little to the W. of this garden is the Sirishof-Vag, from which a path and/a road ascend in 5 min. to the *Bel'vedere, a tower erected in 1877, 110 ft. in height, standing on a hill upwards of 100 ft. above the sea-level, and affording an excellent survey of the environs (166 steps in all; admission 506.). The distant view, however, is more extensive than picturesque. There being no mountains in sight, and little or no cultivated land, the distance presents a somewhat dreary and monotonous appearance, the sombre tints of the forests being relieved here and there by water only. Another path ascends to the Belvedere between the Hasselbacken and Maneg'e restaurants (‘/4 .hY-l - We may now quit the Djurgz‘ird by one of the routes already mentioned , or we may walk to the S.E. from Hasselbacken to the (5 min.) BBOKHOLM, a small island with Dry Docks hewn in the 22 * 340 Route 43. MARIEB-ERG. Environs rock and a tar-manufactory, from which steam and other ferry— boats cross frequently to Tegelviken. Thence to Nacka, see p. 342. Next in point of interest to the Djurgard is the short excursion to *Iarieberg, a beautiful point of view on Lake Malaren, about ‘2 Engl. M. to the W. of the Norrbro, which may be reached either by steamer (from the S. end of the Riddarholm, every 1/4 hr., fare 13 6.) or by road (cabs and tramway, see pp. 312, 314). The tra- veller is recommended to go by road and return by steamer. A tramway-car conveys us in 1/4 hr. from the Gustaf-Adolfs-Torg to the W. to the Kungsholm (Pl. B, A, 4), an island about 2 Engl. M. long, on which the W. quarter of Stockholm is situated. On the right we pass the Serafimer Lazaret, opposite to which is the Caro- linska Institut, a medical school connected with it (p. 316), and on the left the Mint; then the Ulrica—Eleonora Kyrka on the right, with its well-shaded churchyard, and the Kungsholms- Torg on the left, where the tramway ends. On the left, a few paces farther on, is the large and handsome Military Hospital (Pl. A, 4). After a walk of about 1/4 hr. from the tramway-terminus we come to another hospital (‘Sjukhjus’ for incurables) on the left, and immediately beyond it diverge by a road to the left, passing in front of'the large Lunatic Asylum of Co'n'radsberg. In 5 min. more we pass the lodge at the S. end of the asylum, follow the road through the gateway to the left, and then (4 min.) through a second gateway. 'Just .beyond it a path ascends in 3 min. more to a rocky knoll, adjoining the rocket-laboratory, which commands a beautiful view of Lake Malaren and Stockholm, entirely different from the views on the Baltic side of the town. —— Returning to the road, we fol- low it to the left and soon reach the Military School of Mariebe'rg, prettily situated on a height above the lake, where a famous por- celain manufactory was established in 1759-88. A path passing the large bell and descending to the right leads in a few minutes to the steamboat-pier (steamer to Stockholm 8 times daily). Travellers arriving by steamer ascend 60 paces, turn to the right, and "then to the left, past the large bell. Opposite are two paths, of which they select that slightly to the right. After a few paces more (5 min. from the pier) the path to the best point of view diverges to the right. Another short excursion may be taken to the palace of KARL- BERG and the SOLNA KYRKA. Steam-launches leave the Riddar- husgro'ind (near the Riddarhus; Pl. D, 5) every 1/2 hr. for Rb'rstrand ‘(13 6.), Karlberg (13 6.), and Ulfsundasjon (30 6.). The steamboat steers to the N. of the Kungsholm, passing through the Klarasjo', Bamhusvik, and Rorstrandsvilc. The prin- cipal intermediate station is Riirstrand, with a railway-carriage .factory, the oldest porcelain factory in Sweden (fine vases of class- ical form,..painted with northern scenes; not expensive), and several other industrial establishments. of szockiozm. sot-NA "K'YRKA. 43.1mm 341 The palace of ‘Karlberg, situated on the mainland to the N. of the Kungsholm, about 2 Engl. M. to the N.W. of the Norrbro, was erected by‘ Karlson Gyllenhjelm, a natural son of Charles IX. (p. 346), at the beginning of the 17th cent., was after- wards occupied by the royal family, and in 1792 was enlarged and converted into a military school. At the back of the building is a beautiful public *l’arlc, which forms the only attraction of the place. From ‘the end of an avenue on the E. side (5 min.), we may cross the railway at a small halting-place, turn to the left, and follow the road to (1/4 hr.) Solna Kyrka, a round church, and one of the most ancient in Sweden, with a pretty churchyard which has long been the burial-place of some of the principal families of Stockholm. Berzelius, the chemist (d. 1848), is buried here. On the N.E. side of the church is the principal Cemetery (Nya Kyrkogc'zrden) of Stockholm, containing many handsome monuments, but contrasting unpleasingly with the old churchyard. Farther to the E. are the entrance to the park of Haga (see below), and the omnibus and steamboat station of Staltmt‘ista'regt'zrden , at the W. entrance of the park of Beltevue (see below). Among the pleasantest of the shorter excursions from Stock; holm is that to *HAGA and ULRIKSDAL, which may be made either by land or by small steamer. Omnibuses. 1. From the Gustaf-Adolfs-Torg, at the corner of the Stro‘mgata (Pl. E, D, 4), to Stallmc'istaregc‘irden at 7 7.30, and 9.30 a.m. (Sun. and holidays 9.30 and 11.30 a.m.) and 1.30, 3. , 5.30, 7.30, and 9.30 p.m.; fare 35 —— 2. From the Adolfs-Fredriks-Plan (P1. 0, 1, 2) to Haga every 1/2 hr. from 7.30 a.m. to 9.30 p.m. (fare 25 6.); also 12 times daily to Stallmastaregfirden. Steam Launches. 1. From Gustaf III.’s Statue (Pl. E, F, 4) twice daily past the S. side of the Djurgard and through the Lidz'ngo'bro (p. 339; 30 6.), and then to the N. through the Lilla Vartan and the Stoeksund to Ulr‘ilcsdal (706.) and Nytm'p (70 6.). -— 2. From Stallmc'istaregéirde-n across the Kraftrik to Haga (15 6.) and Ulm'lcsdals Allee (20 6.) hourly from 7.30 a.m. till 8.30 p.m. (except at 12.30 and 1.30; on Sun. and holi- days first boat at 9.30 a.m.). — 3. From Stallmiistaregdrden to Haga (25 6.) and through the strait of Alkistan to Ulriksdal (35 6,) at 8 and 10 a.m. (Sun. 10 and 12) and at 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10 p.m. Railway to Jerfva (p. 350), starting from the Central Station. Carriage to Ulriksdal and back 6-8 kr. The Norrtullsgatan (comp. Pl. B, 1), the N. prolongation of the Drottning-Gatan, beyond the Observatory (p. 328), leads direct to the inn of Stallmfistaregdzrden, an important omnibus and steam- boat station at the W. entrance of the royal park of Bellevue, and at the S. end of the bay of Brunnsviken. About 6-8 min. farther to the left is the entrance to the park of Haga , from which we reach the chateau in 1/4 hr. The steam- launches from Stockholm and the Stallmastareg'arden land their passengers close to the chateau. The royal chateau of *Kaga, on the W. bank of the pretty Bv'unns'vik, was built by Gustavus III. and his successor at the end of last century, but has since been somewhat 342 Route 43. ULRIKSDAL. Environs neglected. The gardens, and particularly the park with its fine old timber, are the attractions of the place and deserve a visit. At the N. end of the Brwnnsvilt, about 2 Engl. M. from the Stallmastaregard, and 11/4 M. from Haga, lies Nedre Jerfoa (a few hundred paces to the E. of the railway-station of Jerfva, see p. 350), usually known as Ulrilcsdals Alle'e (steamer, see above), a fine avenue with a number of pleasant villas,' which leads to the N. in 1/4 hr. to the royal chateau of *Ulriksdal, beautifully situated on the Eds-vile, a long and narrow creek of the Baltic. It was erected at the beginning of the 17th cent. by General Jacob de la Gardie and named Jacobsdal, after which it passed into the pos— session of Prince Ulrik, a son of Charles XL, from whom it derives its present name. Charles XIV. John converted the chateau into a ‘hotel des invalides’, but it was again fitted up as a royal resi- dence by Charles XV. , who restored the interior with great taste in the original style. During his reign the chateau formed quite a museum of objects of art, porcelain, tapestry, and curiosities; and, though it has since been somewhat neglected, and a number of its treasures have been removed, it still deserves a visit (atten- dant 1kr.). In the neighbouring park is Ulriksdals-Kyrka, erected in 1865 in the Dutch Renaissance style. A favourite holiday-resort of the Stockholmers, but less interesting than those already mentioned, is Nacka (Cafe), at the E. end of the Hammarby-Sjo', 3 Eng]. M. to the 8.15. of the Norrbro. The pleasantest route to it is by steamer from the Rdntmdstare-Trappa (Pl. b‘, 5, 6) to (1/4 hr.; fare 8 6.) Tegelvz'ken (P1. I, 7); thence on foot to (10 min.) a pier on the N. bay of the Hammarby-Sjo'; and by small steamer on the lake to Nackabro in 20 min. more. The steamer then passes through the bridge and enters the Jdrla-Sjo', where it touches at several stations. Longer Excursions. The Baltic to the E. and Lake Malaren to the W. of Stockholm, with their numerous Wooded and rocky islands, and their bays, creeks, and straits in every direction, present many points of in- terest, all of which are most conveniently reached by steamboat. The favourite excursions are to Drottningholm (see below), to Vascholm (p. 347), and to Upsala (R. 45), but a few additional days should if possible be devoted to some of the picturesque and historically interesting places on Lake Malaren, such as Gripsholm, Strengm‘is, and Vesterds (p. 310). LAKE MXLAREN. lilaren, a lake 80 Engl. M. long, and only about a couple of feet higher than the Baltic level, forms a vast archipelago of islands resembling the ‘Sk'argard’ on the coast. There are no fewer than 1209 islands (6ar and holmar) in all; the more open parts of the. lake are called fic'irde ,- and there are creeks and ramifications in every direction , the longest of which is that of Stockholm. DROTTNINGHOLM. 43. Route. 343 of Upsala, extending about 30 Engl. M. from the central part of the lake. Beautiful as the scenery is, it lacks variety, the islands being all of very moderate height and similar in character, and the colouring somewhat sombre. About '7 Engl. M. to the W. of Stockholm (steamer 6 times daily from the S. quay of Riddarholmen, in 3/4 hr., fare 5O 6.; car- riage there and back 8 kr., high road very muddy after rain, and very dusty in dry weather) is situated the royal palace of *Drott- ningholm, on the Lofo, one of the most beautiful of the numer- ous islands of Lake Malaren. —— Soon after starting from the Bid- darholm, the steamer passes the Langholm on the left, with several manufactories and villas. To the S. of the Langholm is the Reimers- holm with its large distillery, a rocky height above which is marked by a cross and iron plate with an inscription in memory of a Russian buried here by his own desire (fine view). On the right is the military school of Marieberg (p. 340); then the islands of Lilla and Stora Essingen. On the left the island of Elcensberg, with the loftily situated chateau of Hc'igersten on the mainland to the S., to the N.W. of which lies Klubben, on the coast. A little farther on, the Sigtuna and Upsala arm of the lake diverges to the N.W. Passing between the Fogelo and the Kersii, we soon reach the pa— lace, situated a few paces to the S. of the village of Drottning- holm and the bridge which connects the island with the Kerso. To the N. of the landing-place is a Restaurant. The Palace derives its name (‘Queen’s Island’) from the queen of John III. by whom it was founded at the close of the 16th cent., and the foundation of the present handsome edifice was laid by Hedvig Eleonora, widow of OharlesX., nearly a century later.v The architects were the eminent Nicodemus Tessin, who designed the Palace at Stockholm, and his son of the same name , by whom the building was completed early in the 17th century. The palace was handsomely fitted up by subsequent monarchs, and contains a number of sumptuously furnished apartments, adorned with portraits of the royal families of Sweden and other works of art. Adjacent is a theatre, built by Gustavus III. The gardens, which are laid out partly in the old French style, are embellished with sculptures in bronze and marble by Adr. de Vries and his pupils. The *Park afiords delightful walks. One of the chief curiosities here, a little to the S.W. of the palace, is the Chinese Pagoda (‘Kina Slott’), erected by Adolphus Frederick about 1770, and presented to his queen Lovisa Ulrika. It still contains a small museum of Chinese objects. Adjoining it on the W. is the so- called Canton, founded by the same king, who was an adept in the arts of turning and lock-making, as a settlement for his work- men. About 1 Engl. M. to the W. of the Canton is the Church of Lofii, from which a pleasant road to the N., and then to the E., leads back to the village (21/4 M.). 344 Route 43. ' GRIPSHOLM. Excursions From the Canton a road leads to the S. to the Malmva'k, where'a bridge crosses to the long narrow island of Munso', extending towards the N.W. Between that island and the Lofo lies the island of Svartsjo, on the E. side of which, on the Hillersjovik, is situated the dilapidated chateau of Svartsjo‘, once a monastery, afterwards fortified by Gustavus Vasa, and at a later period used as a residence by several dowager queens of Sweden. Near the chateau is a large nursery-garden. (Two steamers touch in the vicinity daily.) The next point of interest on Lake Malaren is Manrnrnnn with the castle of GRrPsHoLM, the steamer for which (once daily) starts from the Mc'ilar— Torg (Pl. E, 5) and makes the voyage in 3-31/2 hrs. (fares 11/2 or 1 kr.). On Sundays excursion-steamers frequently ply to Mariefred (return fare 11/2v kr.). On Tues., Thurs., and Sat. the large steamer starting from the Munkbrohamn (Pl. D, 5) at ‘.2 p.m. calls at Mariefred on its way to Sundsor. The steamboat first steers to the W. between Fogeliin and the mainland, and then turns towards the S., passing the island of Kungshatt, so named from a rock surmounted with a pole and an iron hat, which commemorate the tradition that Olaf Haraldsson, king of Norway, when pursued by the king of Sweden, sprang with his horse from the cliff into the lake and escaped, leaving his hat behind him. Farther on we pass Fittja in a creek to the left, and the church of Eckero on the island of Munso to the right, opposite which is the chateau of Sturehof. The island of Kagge- holm is named after MarshalKagg, by whom the chateau at the N.W. end was built. A little to the N.W. is the works, the supposed site of Birka, where St. Ansgar first preached Christianity in 829. That the island was once an important place is proved by the antiquities and remains of ancient buildings recently discovered in it. In 1834 a granite cross was erected on the island to com- memorate the thousandth anniversary of St. Ansgar’s missionary labours in Sweden. Farther N. is the Adelso, the ancient seat of the Folkunga tribe. We pass the Birth, turn to the S., and enter the Gripsholms- Vik, on the W. bank of which (not visible from the steamer) is Rdfsnd's, the gird where Gustavus Vasa received tid- ings of the death of his father Eric in the massacre of 1520 (p. 320). On the S. bank of the bay is the chateau of Niisby, and in a creek to the W. of it Mariefred with its castle. The small town of Hariefred (Stadskiillare) owes its origin partly to the monastery of St. Mary founded here at the end of the 15th cent. by Stan Sture the Elder, whose remains were buried in it in 1504 and afterwards removed to Strengnas, but chiefly ‘to the ancient castle of Gripsho-lm. The original building was enlarged and fortified by the famous Bo Jonsson Grip (‘the griffin’), the all- powerful minister, or rather co-rege-nt, of King Albert from 1371 to 1385, and was afterwards presented by Sten Sture the Elder to the monastery. Soon afterwards Gustavus Vasa suppressed the mon- astery and took possession of the castle, which he re-erected and from Stockholm. STRENGNAS. 43. Route. 345 fortified anew in 1537. It was subsequently enlarged and em- bellished by Gustavus III., who left it ‘in its present form. The principal building, with its four massive towers, is pentagonal in shape, and encloses two courts, still presenting many of the features of a mediaeval stronghold. In the outer court are two huge cannon , popularly called the ‘boar’ and the ‘sow’, captured by Jacob de la Gardie at Ivanogrod in 1581. In the interior (fee 1‘ kr. ; more for a party) are shown the rooms where John, the son of Gustavus Vasa, was kept a prisoner by his brother Eric XIV., and where the latter when insane was afterwards confined by John 111., who deposed him "in 1568. Nine years later the un- happy Eric was poisoned at ()rbyhus by his brother’s order (see p. 358). The small room shown here as his prison was really built at a later date. The unpopular Gustavus IV. signed his abdication here in 1809, and an adjoining apartment is said to have been used by his father as a dressing-room for private theatricals in which he himself took part. The castle contains a very exten- sive collection of portraits of historical personages, nearly 2000 in all, including Gustavus Vasa and his son Eric XIV., painted by the latter, and a number of their contemporaries, the ambassadors present at the conclusion of the Peace of Westphalia in 1648, Gustavus III. and his contemporaries, and many others. A collec— tion of mediaeval furniture, tapestry, and plate also deserves in- spection. — About 5 Engl. to the W. of Mariet'red is the ex- tensive cannon-foundry of Alter, near which are the gunpowder- mills of Riicksta. —— To the N.W. of Mariefred (12 Engl. M.) lies Strengnc'is (see below). The next interesting place on the S. bank of Lake M'zilaren is S'ranNeNKs, which is called at by a large proportion of the steamers plying on the Malaren, so that travellers will have at least two opportunities daily of making this excursion. Most of the steam- ers start from the Munkbroha'mn (Pl. 1), 5), and some from the Riddarhotm. The passage takes 31/2-4 hrs. ; fares 21/2 or 1% kr. The steamers to Strengnas, after passing the entrance to the Gripsholmsvik (p. 344), steer between the mainland and the Setaii, which formerly belonged to several families of historical note. To the right, on the island, is the conspicuous farm of Metsiiker, once a richly furnished chateau, and near it is the church of Ytter-Setaii. On the mainland lies Sundby, beyond which we observe to the right the small Tynnelsr'i, with a building once occupied by the bishops of Strengnas. We now enter a narrow strait between the Tosteri)’ and the mainland, and soon stop at Strcngnil (Hotel), a town with 1600 inhab., prettily situated. The history of the place reaches back to the pagan era. A monas— tery was afterwards erected here, and in 1291 a bishopric estab- lished. Gustavus Vasa was elected king at Strengnas in 1523, 346 Route 43. VAXHOLM. ' Excursions and the throne was secured to his heirs by a decree passed here in 1547. Half the town was burned down in 1871, but has since been rebuilt. The handsome Gothic *Cathedral was consecrated in 1291, but took fire on the occasion. It was afterwards restored, but again repeatedly injured by fire, and has undergone frequent alterations. It now ranks fourth in importance among the cathe— drals of Sweden. The disproportionate thickness of the pillars is accounted for by the fact that after a fire in 1551 the walls of the church were lowered 30 feet. The choir is now the most inter- esting part. Charles IX. ((1. 1009), with his two wives and several of his children, Sten Sture the Elder (d. 1504), Karl Gyllenhjelm (d. 1650), a natural son of Charles IX., a distinguished general, and a pious theologian and author (on whose monument are placed the fetters worn by him when a captive in Poland), Admiral Sten— bock, and other eminent persons lie buried here. The church also contains a collection of reminiscences of the famous bishop Conrad Rogge (d. 1501). The old episcopal mansion built by Rogge, with picturesque gables and turrets, now used as a school-house, con- tains the room on the upper floor where the election of Gustavus Vasa took place. A building to the W. of the church contains the Episcopal Library, a valuable collection, and a small museum and cabinet of coins. The modern episcopal residence is on the S.side of the cathedral. A little to the S. of Strengnas is-the estate of Ulfhdll or Olivehd'll, and in the neighbourhood are several other pleasant country-houses. —— A road leads to the W. to Thorshdlla and Eskz'lstuna (pp. 348, 349), about 21 Engl. M. distant, but it is preferable to proceed thither by water or by railway (see R. 44). The N. bank of Lake Malaren, between Stockholm and Vesteras, though also picturesque, is less interesting than the S. bank. The ramification to Sigtuna and Upsala, 30 Engl. M. in length, is de-- scribed in R. 45 b. Enko'ping, see p. 311. Vesterc'zs, see p. 310. THE BALTIC. Of the numerous excursions which may be made by steamboat on the Baltic, on the E. side of Stockholm, those which will repay the traveller best are to (1) Vaxholm and to Gustafsberg. From the former,’ if time permit, the voyage may be prolonged to Nowtelge and Osthamma'r, and from the latter to Dalarii. The Saltsjii , or bay of the Baltic at the end of which Stock- holm stands, is like the Malaren, dotted with innumerable islands and rocks , separated by wider or narrower channels. Its length from Stockholm to the outermost rocks is nearly 40 Engl. M. 1. VAXHOLM. Steamboats ply from Stockholm to Vaxholm 8-10 times daily. The direct local boats start from the Logdrdstrappan (Pl. E, 4), but the Toftestaholme boat starting from the Nybro- hamn (Pl. F, 3), and the steamers of several different lines start- from Stockholm. GUSTA'FSBERG. 43. Route. 347' ing from Karl den Tol/tes Tot-g (Pl. E, 3, 4), also call at Vaxholm. Passage 11/2-2 hrs. ; fare 65 6. The steamer passes the Djurgard, the entrance to the Lilla Vdrta, and the Lidingo on the left, and the Ha'stholm, the en- trance to the Sleurusund (see below), the Hasseludde, and Kum- melnc'is on the right. It then traverses a broader part of the fjord, passing the Aslcrike Fjiird on the left, and threads its way be- tween rocky islands until it stops beneath the guns of the fortress. The rocky island of Vaxholm (*Hotel) lies about 12 Engl. M. to the N.E. of Stockholm. The village, a poor place with about 1200 inhab. , who are chiefly fishermen, consists almost entirely of slightly built wooden houses, which the military authorities may order to be pulled down on a few hours’ notice in case of a threatened war. Numerous visitors from Stockholm spend the summer here for the sake of the sea-bathing. On a small rocky island between the Vaxholm and the Rindo rises the im- posing Fortress (to which strangers are admitted on showing their passports), founded in the middle of the 16th cent. by Gustavus I. to guard the only practicable approach to Stockholm for large vessels, and strengthened by Gustavus Adolphus. The summit commands a fine view of the surrounding ‘sklirgard’. A pleasant excursion of 2-3 hrs. may be taken by boat to the Fred- riksbo'rg, a picturesque ruined tower on the Vermdo, opposite the E. end of the Rindo, by which the passage between these islands was formerly guarded. This channel is now partially filled up, and is not navigable for large vessels. 7 Beyond Vaxholm, on the mainland to the N., lies Tuna, at the mouth of the filters-Canal, through which a steamer runs to Akersberg and Hakunge, situated on a picturesque lake. Farther distant, to the N. E., are the islands So'dra and Norra Ljustero', beyond which is the large estate of Cstand on the mainland. The next steamboat-stations are Vetterhaga and Bergshamra, beyond which, to the N. of the Yzvlao‘ and the Blade‘, is the islet of Furusund, with a small village, frequented in summer by sea-bathers from Stockholm. Farther to the N. opens the Telgem'k, a fjord about 12 Eng]. M. long, at the head of which lies Norrtelge (Stadshotel), a busy little trading town with 1620 inhab., and a favourite sea-bathing place. The environs are pretty, and a pleasant excursion may be taken to Finsla, the birthplace of St. Birgitta, Lake Skevz'k, the ruined castle of Oxenstjerna at Min-by, and the manufactory of Rdna's with its fine park. By land Norrtelge is 50, by water 90 Eng]. M. from Stockholm. The next steamboat-station of importance is Gr'z'sslehamn, at the N. end of the Va'ddo‘, the starting-point in winter, when almost all the Water-ways to Stockholm are frozen up, for theAland Islands, Fin- land, etc. -— To the N.W. lie Osthammar and Oregrund, two small trading towns of considerable antiquity, but now unimportant. The steamer next steers to the N. W., passing the mouth of the Dalelf (p. 359), to Gefle (see p. 359) 112 Engl. M. distant from Stockholm by railway (see RR. 45, 47), and S7 sea-miles (148 Engl. M.) by steamer. ‘2. Another very favourite excursion from Stockholm is to the porcelain manufactory of Gustafsbarg, 10 Engl. M. to the E. of Stockholm, but reached by a somewhat circuitous route (steamboat 348 Route 43. THORSHALL A. 4-6 times daily from Gustaf 111.’s Statue, P1. E, F, 4, in 13/4 hr. ; fare 75 The steamer steers down the fjord to Kungshamn, and then suddenly turns at a right angle towards the S. into the very narrow and picturesque Slourusund, separating the Vermdii from the mainland. At the 8.. end of the strait lies Dufnds, where Gustaf Vasa is said to have fought against the Danish usurpers in his youth. This point may also be reached by the pleasant route from Stock; holm to Kolbotten at the E. end of the Jarla Sjo (p. 342), from which the traveller may walk to Dufn'as in 25 min. ; or this route may be taken in returning. At Dufnas the strait expands, and the steamer then proceeds towards the E. through another and even narrower strait called Sodra Stt'ilcet, beyond which it enters the broad and almost entirely land-locked Baggens-lrb'c'ird , named after Jacob Bagge (d. 1577), a Swedish naval hero, and steers to the N.E. to Gustafsberg, where the porcelain manufactory is the chief object of interest. One of the specialties of the place is the tasteful Parian and biscuit china, which is favourably known beyond the limits of Sweden. From the Baggens-Fjard, a little to the S. of Gustafsberg, another narrow channel, part of which is called the Stro'mma Canal, separating the Vermdii from the Ingaro‘, and also traversed daily by steamers, leads to Stafsnc'is and the bleak little island of Sandhamn, a genuine specimen of aScandinavian ‘skar‘, but boasting of a post-office and tele- graph-station. Steamers also run from the Stake to the S. to Dalaro, arocky promontory with a picturesque old tower, and a favourite sea-bathing place, with an inn and several pleasant villas. steamboats occasionally run from Dalaro to the S. to the 05th)‘, with an asylum for destitute children, the Orno', the Musk-o‘, with the harbour of Elfsnabben from which Gustavus Adolphus embarked for Germany in 1630, and the Uto‘, with valuable iron-mines. 44. From Kolback and Valskog to Plan, Nykoping, and Oxelosund. 138 Kil. (86 Eng]. M.). R-AiLWAY in 7-8 hrs. (fares from Kolback to Oxelosund 10 kr. 60, 5 kr. 30 6.; from Valskog to Oxelosund 11 kr. 5, 5 kr. 55 6.). ~ Kolba'ck, seep. 310. The train follows the course of the Striims- holms Canal (p. 360) to Striimsholm (p. 361), at its mouth, and then crosses the Borgasund. It next skirts the shore of the main- land, crosses the Qcicksund, and reaches the station of that name. 18 Kil. Rekame, the junction for the railway coming from Vals- kog 309) via Kungsor (at the mouth of the Arbogaa, see p. 309) and Oster- Tibblc. -- The figures prefixed to the following stations indicate their distance from Valskog. 29 Kil. (18 Thorshiilla, situated on the Thorsha'llai’z or Eskz'lst'unaii, near its mouth in Lake Malaren. The town was once an important place, but-has been entirely supplanted by Eskils- tuna since the construction ‘of the locks (1856-60) by which the falls of the Eskilstunaa are avoided. ESKILSTUNA. 44. Route. 349 35 Kil. (22 Eskilstuna (Nya Hotellet; excellent river- baths), a town with 7000 inhab., charmingly situated on the Es- kilstunad, derives its name from Eskil, an Englishman, Archbishop of Lund, and one of the first preachers of Christianity in Siider- manland. The tradition that he was stoned by the heathen popu- lace at Strengnas and buried here is unfounded. He resigned his prelacy a few years before his death and retired to the Bernardine monastery of Clairvaux in France, where he died in 1181. A Ber- nardine monastery founded here in the 12th cent. was suppressed in 1527 by Gustavus Vasa, who erected on its site a royal palace, which was burned-down in 1680. Fragments of the building are still to be seen in the ‘churchyard. In 1654 the first metal-works were established here by a Livonian from Riga, and in 1659 mun- icipal privileges were conferred on the town. Since that period, and particularly since the completion of the canal to Thorshalla in 1856, Eskilstuna has become a famous manufacturing place, the ‘Swedish Sheffield’, the staple commodities being iron and steel wares. The town consists of the Gamla Stad on the E. bank, the Nya Stad on the \V. bank, the adjoining Fristad, and the Kqrl Gustafs Stad. The most important establishments are Karl Gustafs Gevc'irsfaktori, or gun-manufactory belonging to government, on an island in the river, founded in 1814; Munktell’s Foundry and Engine- Works, opposite; the Tunafo'rs rolling and polishing- works, belonging to a company, to the S. of the town; and the Still/‘ors cutlery works, which produce excellent goods at moderate prices. Damascened wares form a specialty of the famous steel- works in the Fristad. Eskilstuna possesses a Technical School, where a collection of the manufactures of the place is exhibited. — The favourite places of recreation in the neighbourhood are the Djurgi’wd, Sommarro to the W. of the Fristad, and Suopptorp’s Helsobrunn to the S. From Eskilstuna a. STEAMBOAT plies 4 times weekly to Stockholm, via Thorshd'lla and Streuguds (p. 345). —— About 7 Engl. M. to the N.E. of Eskilstuna is the church of Jdder, the burial place of Axel Oxen- stjerna (d. 1654), containing a few memorials of the Thirty Years’ War. Adjacent is the large estate of Fiholm, on Lake Malaren. 40 Kil. (25 Skogstorp; 45 Kil. Hdllsta; 61 Kil. Hellefors- m'is; 69 Kil. Mello'sa. 65 Kil. (40 Flen, the junction of the Vestra Stamba-na (p. 292; for Stockholm). - .89 Kil. (55 Vadsbro; 96 Kil. Bettna; 103 Kil. Vrena; 111 Kil. Stigtomta ,- 116 Kil. Larslund, all in the district of S6— dermanland (p. 292), with its numerous lakes. 125 Kil. (78 Nykiiping (Assemblée-Kiillaren), a town with 4400 inhab., at the mouth of the Nykdpingsd, which drains several lakes and here falls into the Stadsfjt'irden, a bay of the Baltic. Nykiiping is the capital of the Ian of the same name, and-is fre- 'rquently mentioned in the early history of the country. The ,water 350 Route 45. ROSERSBERG. From Stockholm of the river, which forms a fall here, is utilised as the motive power of the Nyko'pings Mekaniska Verkstad, a large machine fac- tory. — Steamer to Stockholm twice weekly, to Norrkoping once weekly. 133 Kil. (821/2 Stjernholm. 138 Kil. (86 Oxeldsund, with a good harbour. The steamer plying on the Gota Canal, between Gothenburg, Jiinkdping, and Stockholm, calls here (see p. 300). 45. From Stockholm to Upsala. A visit to UPSALA is best made as an excursion from Stockholm, the traveller either going there and back by train,__or going by steamer and returning by rail. Travellers on their way to Ostersund and Thrond- hjem (R. 49) may visit Upsala in passing. The excursions from Upsala to Gefle, Falun, etc., are not interesting enough to be recommended to the ordinary tourist. a. By Railway. 66 Kil. (41 Engl. llI.). RAILWAY in 1 hr. 40 min. to 3% hrs. (express fares 5 kr. 65 6., 4 kr.; ordinary, 4 kr. 65, 3 kr. 50, 2 kr. 35 ii.) The train starts from the Central Station (p. 311), and passes Kartberg (p. 341) on the left and Rdrstrand on the right. The line to Vesteri'rs now diverges to the left (R. 42). To the right is the church of Solna. —- 7 Kil. Jew/‘ca, from which a road leads to (20 min.) Ulriksdal (p. 342). Farther on .we observe Edsberg on the right, at the N. end of the Edsoilc, and Sollentunaholm on the Norr'vik (with the church of that name to the left). 19 Kil. Rotebro, 25 Kil. Vr'isb'y. ‘ 32 Kil. (20 Engl. Rosersberg, the station for the *CHATEAU or Rosrsnsmmo (Rosersbergs Slott), situated 1% Engl. M. to the W. on a bay of Lake M'alaren, and not visible from the train. The place derives its name from the family of Tre Roser, to which it once belonged It next came into the possession of the famous Oxenstjerua, and afterwards became the property of the crown. It was a favourite residence of Charles XIII. and of his adopted son Bernadotte. The picture-gallery contains busts of these mon- archs and others in marble, by Bystriim, Etruscan vases, etc. The library consists of 7000 vols., a catalogue of which, written by Charles XIII. himself, is shown. His bedroom is also preserved in its original condition. A visit to Rosersberg by the small Sigtuna steamer (p. 351) forms a pleasant excursion from Stock- holm. (The Upsala steamer does not touch here.) From (36 Kil.) Mr'i'rsta a visit may be paid to (8 Kil.) Sigtuna (p. 352); the road turns to the left after 3 Kil. and finally crosses the Garnsoik. 48 Kil. Knifsta, 59 Kil. Bergsbmnna. We now obtain a fine view of the plain of Upsala (Upsala-Sliitten), the cradle of Swedish culture, with the churches of Danma'rk and Vaksala. About 1% Engl. M. to the E. of Bergsbrunna lies the village of Denmark, whence we may walk in 1/z hr. to Hammett-by, with the country- house of Linnaeus, in which he died in 1778. -_~ Near Hammarby are the ‘celebrated Mora Stones (Morastenar). The ten stones now remaining are to Upsala. ALMARE-STAKET. 45. Route. 351 enclosed in a stone building erected in 1770, but probably few of them are genuine. It was here that the newly elected kings swore to observe the laws of the country, and they thereupon received an oath of alleg- iance from the layman, or judges, in the name of the people, who prayed that God might lgrant the king a long life, taking care to add the reser- vation, ‘if he be a good king’. The original Mora Stones, which had all disappeared by the time of Gustavus Vasa, consisted of a large stone, resting on several smaller ones, adjoining which were placed the hylln- t'ngsstenar, or ‘homage-stones’, on which the new king mounted to show himself to the people. By the homage-stone, on the election of each new sovereign, was placed a smaller stone bearing his name and the vdate. It is of these last alone that the Mora Stones now consist. The train crosses the St'ifjad, an affiuent of the Fyrz'sd, approaches the latter stream at Ultuna, traverses Kungsc'ingen (‘the king’s meadow’), formerly the Fyrt'svall, and soon enters the handsome station of (66 Kil.) Upsala (p. 353). b. By Steamboat. _ 90 Kil. (56 Engl. M.). STEAMBOAT daily in 5 hrs., starting from Ricldar- kOl'IIlen (Pl. D, 5) in the forenoon (fare 2 kr.). Another boat, leaving the Munkot'oha'mn (PI. D, 5), about noon, plies to Sigtuna (3 hrs., 1% kr.) and Orsundsbro. The scenery is somewhat monotonous, and the steamer is a slow conveyance, which stops at nineteen intermediate stations; but those who have ample time will prefer it to the train, at least for the journey to Upsala. The first station is Nockeby, where a wooden bridge connects the mainland with the Kersd, from which another bridge crosses to Drottningholm (p. 343). The broad ex- panse of Lake Malaren is quitted here, and the steamer threads its way between the islands and the mainland, crossing several fja'rdar (bays). On the right lies the pleasant estate of Hesselby, beyond it that of Riddars'vik (station), and to the left is the island of S'vartsjii (p. 344). Farther on we pass, on the right, the chi- teau of Go'rct'iln, built by Duke John, brother of Charles X., and on the left that of Lennartsnds, once the property of Lennart Tor— stenson (d. 1651), one of the most distinguished generals of Gusta- vus Adolphus in the Thirty Years’ War. We now reach the narrow strait of Std'ket (said to be a word of Finnish origin), an island in which, called Almare-Sta'ket, contains a few fragments of the castle of St. Erik’s Borg. An ancient stronghold which stood here was destroyed by the Esths in 1187, and a castle was afterwards erected on the same site by Nikolaus Ragvaldi, Archbishop of Up- sala. At a later period it was occupied by Archbishop Gustaf Trolle, a powerful opponent of the administrator Sten Sture the Younger, who took the castle and destroyed it in 1517. This strait forms the entrance to a long and narrow arm of the lake called Sitar/‘sen. We next pass the estate of Runsa on the right. Beyond it, in a bay on the right, lies the chateau of Rosersberg (p. 350), which is called at by the Sigtuna steamer, but is not visible from the Upsala boat. Farther on, we observe to the right the recently restored chi, 352 Route 45. SIGTUNA. teau of Steninge, once the property of Marshal Fersen, who was murdered by the populace during an insurrection at Stockholm in 1812. The park contains a monument to his memory. We now enter the Sigtuna—Fja'rd, in which, to the right, lies — Sigtuna (no hotel; restaurants only), once one of the largest and handsomest towns in Sweden, but now containing 500 inhab. only. It was founded at the beginning of the 11th cent. by Olaf Skotkonung, and was destroyed by the Esths in 1187. They are said to have carried off the two massive silver doors of the choir of one of the churches, which now adorn a church in Novgorod. All that remains of the ancient buildings of Sigtuna consists of the scanty ruins of the churches of St. Peter, St. Lawrence, St. Olaf, and St. Nicholas. The present church once belonged to a Dominican monastery. The place is prettily situated, and com- mands a fine view of the lake. Route to Marsta, 8 Kil., see p.350. To the left we next observe the Signildsberg, the site of a still more ancient town of Sigtuna (For-Sigtuna or Foru-Sigtuna), the scene of the saga of Hagbart and Signe. On the same bank lies Hdtu'naholm, with the church of Hdtuna, where dukes Eric and Valdemar took their brother King Birger prisoner in 1306 and compelled him to grant them extensive privileges. The following year Birger revenged himself by inviting them to Nykoping, where he caused them to be thrown into prison and starved to death , an act of barbarity which cost him his throne. The three brothers are interred in the choir of the Storkyrka at Stockholm. Beyond Erilcssund, Finstaholm (stations), and the church of Ha'ggeby, the arm of the lake expands into the Skofia'rcl, on the left side of which rises the -— * Skokloster (properly Skogltloste'r, ‘forest monastery’; station), an imposing chateau , on the site of a monastery which originally belonged to the Dominicans and afterwards to Cistercian nuns. The convent was suppressed by Gustavus Vasa, and was presented byGustavus Adolphus to Marshal Herman Wrangel, whose son Charles Gustavus Wrangel erected the present chateau in the style of that of Aschaffenburg in Germany and filled it with treasures captured during the Thirty Years’ War. After his death it passed into the possession of Count Brahe, his son-in-law, and still be- longs to the same family. The building is square in form , each side being 140 ft. long, and encloses a court in the interior. At each corner rises a handsome tower roofed with copper. A great part of the *INTERIOR is still in an unfinished condition. The handsome Vestibale is borne by eight Ionic columns of white marble, which were presented by Queen Christina. The Kungssal has a richly decorated stucco ceiling. The staircases and vestibules are embellished with numerous portraits (including those of several of Marshall Wrangel‘s Scotch auxiliaries), pictures by Ehrenstrahl and others, and rich tapestry. The very valuable Collections preserved here comprise a Library contain- ing 30,000 vols. and numerous MSS., and an Armoury with 1200 guns of various kinds, a number of swords, daggers, and hows, the sword of .‘_\ [if . €~)\\‘\ I 43 “Va 41%“ ~\, ){KKg‘lr ‘F kr.‘) "(p/‘b \‘ flé‘a3‘v/$[ /\ 5 ¢ ” I . -\ \\\’'-I / ' ‘A \ v i: \' ‘RH _.1,\'\\~\§\\ W \l ‘= i' a!‘ §;.\\\\ \ \ , Ll'iidgiir s .. , 1'5]; -. .. .. s‘ I fi .-*/"l~>.~.nutyzir f‘ \ x ‘ .. \“L ~ I @ P" s A L A ~ . _ -/ i i "J ’ ——-" 7 * —-—-‘ Y 4’ " '> z.” iltgla —_ x0» \ r ' S kal (1 1120.000 ’ , 'I/IHH'I " \ .2‘ i’ _rapo one I \‘ 0 '/ / > .. _._...__.....__,__ _ ______ _ _ . ___._._________.____._. _ r.. ._ . LLJLI’Z-A... - __._. l .. ...._.._ ._ _._-l . l Anatomic-um _ . 0.4.5 Nations hnsarne @ 22Pus17umer . D4. 3 (‘aroIjIutRediViI'u BA» ' 1'3 (io‘ffiborgs 3.3.1 Ziiliegnellmmum (‘.4. 3 (basis/aria”: (‘.3. l3 {)s/qr'im (3.2. 24 Soml'luu'z'zun . . 0.4-. 4 Dnmbrme . . , . ‘.3. 14- .S'malnllm; . ".3. 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AA.’ 10.1mm" BJS'InnenIurHimr'arknI .. f \Ls‘lflmrem 1'. Faltlyhusl'f ' 5. Il'iniltrh us” 8. Fn'mumrr lqqrn . 7. (iollands Fbmxnl 1 Blimpitnl L_ 18. St . Mil-Iran] 19- .S‘Lll'imlam- 20.67.0111!‘ Isvdsosoo 'wwervrse Grog raph. Anni all van UPSALA. 46. Route. 353 Ziska, the famous Hussite leader, the sword used by the executioner at the ‘Blood-bath of Linkdping‘ (p. 302), and the shield of Emp. Charles V., said to have been executed by Benvenuto Cellini, and captured at Prague in 1648. Near the chateau is the handsome Gothic *Sltokyrka, which originally belonged to the monastery. It contains the burial- chapel of Marshal Herman Wrangel and an equestrian statue to his son, a handsome pulpit, and an interesting altar-piece. The font and a figure of the penitent Magdalene were brought from the monastery of Oliva near Dantzig. Here, too, is buried Hedvig Charlotta Not‘d’enflycht, ‘the Swedish Sappho’, who on account of a disappointment in love threw herself into a river and died shortly afterwards (1763). -— The overseer of the estate provides visitors with board and lodging if required. The traveller may now row to Alst'ke, and drive thence to the (7 Kil.) Knifsta railway-station (p. 350). Beyond Skokloster the steamer enters the Eid/rd Eltoln. On the right are the church of Alst'ke and the estate of Krusenbe'rg (station); on the left the churches of Alter, Dalby, and‘ Nails. To the right, farther on, is Kungshamn, where the kings of Upsala are said once to have kept their fleet. At stat. Flo'tsund' the steamer enters the muddy Fyrt'sd. To the right stretches the fertile plain of Upsala, with the churches of Danmark, Vaksala, and Gamla Upsala. On the left is the agricultural school (Landbruks- Instittttet) of Ultuna. The river expands considerably at two places, beyond which Upsala comes in view and is soon reached. 46. Upsala. RAILWAY STATION on the E. side of the town (Pl. D, E, 3, 4). Steam- boats sto at the Slt'o'mparterre (Pl, D, 4, 5) on the S. side. Hote s. JERNVAGS-HOTEL (Pl. 10; D, 4), SALA, and GEFLE, all in the Kungsgata, near the railwey~station. *S'rAns-Ho'rELLE'r, Drottning- Gatan (Pl. C, 4), with good restaurant a d cafe’. , Restaurants. *Upsala Gille, Vestra. gatan 8; Vaksaala (Pl. D, 3; known as Rullan), at the station, in summer only. Among the cafes may be mentioned that of the *Stt'omparlet't-e (Pl. D, 4. 8), at the steamboat- pier, with a pleasant garden where a band plays in the evening. Baths. Hydropalht'e Establishment, by the Slottska‘llan, below the Slott. River and Swimming Baths by the Dombro and beyond the Svart~ backstull (on the road to Gamla Upsala). Reading Room, with foreign newspapers, at the Upsala Gille, Ved- torget, admission 50 6., or for a month 1 kr. . Bookseller. Akademt'ska Bokhandoeln, Dombro; Ltmdeqvt'stska B'ok- handeln, Drottninggatan and Ostra Agatan. Fine series of views‘ of Upsala and Sigtuna by Billmat-k, 24 kr., Upsalat' Tajlotr, twelve views by Nay, 6 kr. , Cabs (ti/care) at the railway-station and the steamboat-pier. Drive in the town for 1 pers. 50, for 2 pers. 75 6.; to Gamla Upsala 2 kr., with twoghorses, 3-4 pers., 4 kr.; to Eklundshof, 1-2 persons, 50 6.; to Ultuna 2- k1‘. Promenades. OdinsZund, between the cathedral and the university; Slottspat'k; also ‘Pat-ken’ on the Pollacksbacke on- the S. side of the town, especially during the drill of the ‘I'ndelta Armee’. Shady walks on the W. side of the town. — Views'from the Slott and from the steps of the BAEDEKER’s Norway and Sweden. 2nd Edit. 23 354 Route 46. UPSALA. _ History. University, finest view of the Cathedral from the Ustra Agata, near a mill-weir in the Fyris' . University Collections. Botanic Garden, always open. Coins and Northern Antiquities, St. Larsgatan 2', apply to the ‘aman- uensis‘. Library, open in summer on Tuesdays and Fridays, 11—1 o’clock. At other times the hotel-keepers will send for the ‘vaktmastare‘, who, however, is sometimes engaged. Linné‘s Garden (‘Linnéanska Triidgfirden‘), Svartbacksgatan 27, may conveniently be visited on the way to Gamla Upsala. lllt'neralogt'cal Collections in the Chemical Laboratory (Ng/a Kemz'ska Bygnaden), Tuesdays and Fridays, 12-1. Physical Cabinet, in the same building, Wed. and Sat, '12-1. Picture Gallery (‘Muse'et for Bildande Konst‘), in the Gustavianum, to the W. of the cathedral, Sat. '1-2. Zoological Museum, in the Gustavianum, open on week-days. The same building contains Markltn’s Natural History Museum (apply to the ‘konservator‘). Upsala (which is the genitive of Upsalir, ‘the lofty halls’), the most famous university-town in Sweden, and the residence of the archbishop, the ‘landshofding’, and other dignitaries, with ‘15,800 inhab., lies on both banks of the Fyrisd, which is crossed by five bridges. The modern part of the town (Staden) lies on the flat E. bank, while the older quarters (Fjerdingen) are on the somewhat abrupt W. bank. The extension of the town indicated on the Plan has as yet been scarcely begun. It was formerly called Ostra-Aros, and at the period when the kings ofSweden resided at Gamla Upsala it formed their commercial town and harbour. In 1276 the head- quarters of the archiepiscopal see, which had been founded a cent- ury earlier, were transferred from Garnla Upsala to the present town, while the kings selected Stockholm as their future residence. Like Throndhjem in Norway, Upsala may be regarded as the histor- ical and intellectual centre of the empire to which it belongs. Anciently it also formed the great stronghold of paganism, me- moriels of which abound in the tombs and monuments of the neighbourhood; and it was here that the apostles of Christianity encountered the most determined opposition. Geijer, in one of his most beautiful poems, ‘Den Sista Skalden’ (the last of the bards), represents the venerable bard on his return home extolling the magnificence of the temple of Upsala, beneath the lofty arches of which Svithiod’s mighty gods were enthroned, and he after- wards depicts the burning of the sanctuary and the baptism of the terrified inhabitants in the Fyris‘t’a. It is in these historical and mythical associations that the interest attaching to Upsala to a great extent consists. The chief modern centre of attraction is the university, which was founded in 1477. The *Cathedral (Pl. 0, 3) is picturesquely situated on a height (mons domini) rising above the Fyris‘i. The exterior, with its two towers , which were intended to be 388 ft. in height, has been disfigured by restorations, but the interior, though plain, is very impressive. The strictly Gothic style of the architecture recalls Cathedral. UPSALA. 46. Route. 355 that of some of- the French cathedrals, and is accounted for by the fact that the architect was Etienne de Bonneuil, aFrenchman. The edifice was begun in 1289 and completed in 1435, but was partly destroyed by fire in 1702. It consists of a nave with aisles, a transept, and a choir, the last forming a prolongation of the nave, while the retro-choir is acontinuation of the aisles. The handsome vaulting is borne by 24 pillars. The windows are lofty and narrow. Between the flying buttresses, which are enclosed within the walls of the building, are a series of chapels on each side, forming a third and fourth aisle respectively. These chapels are also carried round the choir, where they contain the most celebrated monu- ments in the cathedral. In the interior the church is 359 ft. long, 103-136 ft. broad, and 90 ft. high. The roof rises to a farther height of 23 ft., and the towers, as far as the lanterns added by Hc‘i'rleman, are 178 ft. high. The ‘Klockare’, who lives in the ad- jacent ‘Domtrapphus’, understands a little German (fee 1/2—1 kr.). Among the objects of interest in the interior are the pulpit, desi ned by Tessin, the large organ, the altar (by Burchard Precht of Rome, 1:31), and the candelabra (ljuskronor), one of which, in silver, weighs 521/2 lbs. To the right of the altar is the silver-gilt sarcophagus of King Erik IX. (d. 1160), the patron saint of Sweden. At the back of the altar is the tomb of Jacob Ulfson (1421-1521), Archbishop of Upsala. The chief boast of the cathedral, however, is the ""‘Burs'al Chapel of Gustavus Vasa (‘Gustavianska Koret ; d. 1560), at the back of the choir. The walls of the chapel‘ are embellished with two large and five small frescoes by Sandberg, representing scenes from the life of the great monarch, and are inscribed with the words of his last address to the Estates in 1560. In the centre of the chapel is placed his recumbent figure, between those of Catherine of Lauenburg and Margaretha Lejonhufoud, his first two wives, on a pedestal (“castrum doloris") with obelisks at the corners. His third wife, Karin Stenbock, who survived him upwards of sixty years, is also interred in this chapel. The handsome stained-glass windows are by Way. The Chapel of Katare'na Jagellonica contains the sumptuous monument in marble to John 111, (d. 1592), which was executed in Italy, but wrecked on the voyage from Leghorn to Sweden, and taken to Dantzig, where it remained till 1785. The other chapels around the choir belong to the illustrious families of Sture, Brahe, Oxenstjerna, Lejonhafvud, and De Geer. The monument of Linnaeus is in the Banér Chapel, which ad- joins the N. aisle, while the remains of the great naturalist repose under the organ-loft. It consists of a pyramid of porphyry, with a bronze medallion of Linné by Sergel, and bears the inscription; ‘Carolo a Linné Botam'corum Prtnce'pt Amica' et Dz'scipuli, 1798‘. —— The Sacristy contains many curiosities and precious relics, including ecclesiastical vessels in gold and silver, vestments, crowns, sce tres, the clothes of the Sture who were put to death by Eric XIV. (in 1 68), the derisive gift of King Al.- bert of Mecklenburg to Queen Margaret (21. stone for sharpening her needles), and her retort in the shape of a banner formed out of her own under-garments. The traveller should walk round the outside of the church and inspect the Choir and the imposing lateral “Portals. To the N. of" the cathedral is the Erika Kt'illa (P1. 25), or Spring of St. Erie, which is said to have burst forth on the spot where the saint was executed. Its water is now used by a hydropathic establishment. To the W. of the cathedral rises the large new building of the University (P1. 31; D, 3, 4), erected since 1877. The-.University, 23 * 356 Route 46. UPSALA. Library. founded by Sten Sture in 1477 and richly endowed by Gustavus Adolphus, is now attended by about 1500 students. There are about 50 professors, and as many lecturers and tutors. On entering the university each student is bound to attach himself to one of the thirteen ‘nations’, each of which, somewhat like the col- leges of Oxford and Cambridge, possesses its own buildings, presided over by curators, inspectors, and a committee of management. The members of each nation are divided into seniores, juniores, and re- centiores. On the choice of a ‘nation’ depends to a great extent the character of the student’s education and his future career, and each retains his rights of membership for life. Duelling, to which severe penalties were attached by a law of 1682, has long been unknown in Sweden. One of the chief ‘national’ recreations is quartett-singing. To the S. of the cathedral is the 'l‘refaldighets-Kyrha (P1. 30; B, C, 4), or Bondhyrha(‘church of the Trinity’, or ‘of the peasants’), an older edifice than the cathedral, but now uninteresting. It belongs to the rural part of the parish of Upsala. Farther on is the Odins Land (P1. 21; B, 4), a promenade adorned with an obelisk to the memory of Gustavus Adolphus. We next reach the Carolina Redioioa (Pl. 2; B, 4; adm., see p. 354), a handsome building (with fine view from the flight of steps) containing the valuable library of the university (200,000 vols. and 7000 MSS.), the chief treasure of which is the famous *Codex Argenteus, a trans- lation' of the four Gospels into Moeso-Gothic by Bishop Ulphilas, dating from about the second half of the 4th century, written on 188 leaves of parchment in gold and silver letters on a reddish ground. This precious MS., which was captured in the Thirty Years’ War, was presented by Queen Christina to Vossius, her librarian, and was purchased from him for 400 crowns by De la Gardie, the chancellor of the university. It is to this work of Ulphilas that we are almost exclusively indebted for our knowledge of the ancient Gothic language, which stands nearly in the same relation to the Germanic languages as Sanscrit to the whole Aryan family. ‘In front of the library is the Carolina Park (Pl. B, 4), with a Monument of Charles XIV. John (Bernadotte, d. 1844), by Fogelberg. To the S.W. of the park rises the handsome Chemical Laboratory (Pl. B, 4),‘ with the Physical Cabinet (adm., see p. A little farther on in the same direction is the Botanic Garden (‘botaniska tradgarden; Pl. A, 5), which is always open to the public. The botanical lecture—room contains a marble Statue of Linnaeus by Bystrdm. The celebrated botanist resided at No. 27 Svartbiicksgatan (Pl.11; C, 3), and in summer at Hammarby (p. 350). To the E. of the botanic garden rises the large and unpleasing Slott>(Pl. C, 4), a castle-founded. by Gustavus Vasa in 1548, but never completed... In front of it is a bust of the founder by Fogelberg. In this castle Eric XIV. caused the ill-fated Sture to bemur-dered, and .it was here that Queen Christina abdicated. The N. tower; and the Styrbiskop (built to ‘overawe the bishops’) are mow in ruins. Fine * View from the castle, to the N‘. of which Cemetery. UPSALA. 46. Route. 357 Gamla Upsala is visible. ———A little farther on are the new Hospital (Sjukhus) and the grounds of the Stro'mparterre. Farther to the S. is the Polacksbacke, another good point of view. (Comp. Pl. O, D, 5.). The principal university-buildings not yet mentioned are the (i'ustavianum (‘Gustavianska Akademien’; Pl. 7; B, 3), with zoo- logical and other collections; the Observatory (‘Astronomiska Observatoriet’ ; Pl. A, 3); the Regnelleanum (P1. 23; O, 4), Tr'adgilrdsgatan 18; theoAnatomy Building (‘Anatomi Bygnaden’; Pl. 1 ; D, 4), Vestra Agatan ‘26; the Collection of Coins and Northern Antiquities (‘Myntsamling och Nordiska Fornsaker’), St. Larsgatan 2. The Cemetery (Pl. A, 4) situated to the W. of the library, deserves a visit. Among the numerous monuments of distinguished men is that of Geijer , the poet. The monuments of the different ‘nations’ of the students should also be noticed (see p. 356). EXCURSIONS. The most interesting spot near Upsala is *Gamla Upsala, about 31/2 Engl. M. to the N.E., the first station on the railway to Gefle (p. 359). On foot or by carriage (see p. 353) we may reach it either by the shadeless high-road to Gefle, turning to the right after 2 Engl. M. and following the bye-road round the hill, or more directly by the road diverging after 1/2 M. from the Gefle road and running parallel with the railway. Here are the three Kungshiiga'r, or Tumuli of the Kings, named after the Scandi- navian gods, Thor, Odin, and Freya‘, each about 58 ft. high and 225 ft. in diameter. One of them was opened in 1845 and another in 1874, when evidence of their having been thrown up by human hands was found. Near them is the Tingsho'g (‘assize hill’), 39 ft. in height, from which the kings down to Gustavus Vasa used to address their subjects. —— Adjoining the tumuli is a very ancient Church, built of field-stones (g'rc'tstenar or vrc'ikstenar), containing a monument to Anders Celsius , several old pictures , and eccle- siastical vessels. The inn here contains a drinking-horn, present- ed by Bernadotte, out of which the Swedish students quail mead in memory of the venerable associations of the place. -—— Of the ancient temple of Upsala , which is said to have been lined with polished slabs of brass in Oriental fashion, no trace has ever been discovered. FROM UPSALA 'ro LENNA, 21 Kil. (13 Engl. M.), railway in 11/.; hr. (fares 1 kr. 40, 806.). Intermediate stations: Bc'irby, Marielund. —-21Kil. Lanna. 47. From Upsala to Gefl'e. .114 Kil. (71 Engl. M ). RAILWAY in 4-5 hrs. (fares 8 kr. 55, 5 hr. 15 6.). The scenery is uninteresting, but a visit may be paid on the way to the waterfall of the Dalelf at Elfloarleby and to the famous iron-mines of Dannemora. _ 'The train at first follows’ the course of the Fyrisd. 4 Kil. Gamla Upsala, with the Kungshogar to the left. 1‘Z-Kil. 358 Route 47. ORBYHUS. From Upsala Stor - Vreta. Beyond (20 Kil.) Vattholma is the interesting chateau of Salsta, erected by Tessin. 38 Kil. Vendel. 43 Kil. (‘27 Orbyhus. The chateau, now the property of Count de Geer, belonged for nearly two centuries to the celebrated Vasa family and was fortified by Gustavus Vasa. It was here that his unfortunate and half-insane son Eric XIV. was murdered'by order of his brother John III. on ‘25th Feb., 1577. On 19th Feb. 1577, John wrote thus to Eric Andersson, who was then the commandant of Orbyhus: — ‘We have resolved with our coun- cil as follows. We give you power and authority to shorten King Eric‘s life by giving him such a draught of opium or mercury that he can no longer live. When it is prepared give it him to drink. Should he re- fuse, you may compel him to take it. In case a crowd of ill-disposed persons should come to release him from prison, you must, as soon as you hear of their approach, put an end to his life with the draught above mentioned, and if he will not take it, you are to place him in a chair and open the veins in both his hands and feet in order that he may bleed to death But if he will not submit, you must cause 'him to be bound and restrained by force as long as necessary, or you may smother him with pillows and cushions. In any case you are first to allow a priest access to him, who may administer the holy sacrament to him. All this you must not omit to do if you Wish to be regarded as a good and faithful servant. If there is no.danger, it is our will that King Eric receive princely meat and drink and princely attendance. But if it is necessary .to act otherwise, our true subjects shall be free from all responsibility’. Eric‘s prison is preserved nearly in its original condition. The un- happy prince was arrested on 29th Sept, 1568, deposed on 1st Jan., 1569, and kept a prisoner at Stockholm for 21months. On 16th Julv, 1570 he was removed to bo, on 15th Aug, 1571 to Kastellhotm in Xland, on 16th. Dec. of the same year to Grtpsholm, in _June, 1573 to Vestera’s, and towards the close of the following year to Orbyhus. When he was poi- soned in 1577 he was 44 years of age. FnoM ORBYnUs 'ro DANNEMORA, 9 Kil., by a branch-line in 25 min. (fare 70 or 45 6.). The famous *Hines of Dannemora, which yield the best iron in Sweden, occupy an area of about 2 Engl. M. in length by 30—380 yds. in width. They lie at a depth of 27ft. below the Grufsjo, against the encroachment of which they are protected by means of a massive wall of granite, 37 ft. high at places. The best time to visit the mines is in the forenoon. They are very cold, and at places they contain masses of ice, sometimes assuming grotesque forms. The miners generally work by the light of coal-fires. The air is oppressive, and the ground slippery. __ One of the largest of these mines is that of Osterby, 13/4 Engl. M. to the E. , the property of Baron Tamm, with a handsome mansion, 'a park, a steam-hammer and other works, and a church, together forming quite alittle town. The chateau contains a valuable picture-gallery and sculptures by Sergel, Fogelberg, and Bystro‘m. — The productive mines of Leufsta or Lo'fsta are about 20 Engl. M. to the N. of Dannemora. Beyond Dannemora the train runs on to (43 Kil.) Harg on the Baltic in 2 hrs. more. 48 Kil. (30 Tobo, with extensive iron-works; 61 Kil. Tierp, on the Tierpsd, in a fertile district. Numerous forges in every direction. 69 Kil. Orrskog, whencega branch-line runs to Soderfors on the Dalelf, an anchor-manufactory, driven by the falls of the river, and also belonging to Baron Tamm. It is a prettily situated place, forming a little world of its own. 88 Kil. (54 Elfkarlet'i. The train crosses the Dalelf here by to Gefle. GEFLE. 47. Route. 359 means of a bridge of six arches, 408 ft. in length, and a via- duct 437 ft. long. Visitors to the waterfall of Elflcarleby, about 2 Engl. M. lower down the river, alight here. The fall is 49 ft. high and 250 ft. in width, and the volume of water is very large; but, like the principal waterfalls at Trollhattan, it is divided into two parts by an island in the middle of the stream, whereby its effect is diminished. The environs of the fall are tame and uninteresting. Below it is the Stone Bridge of Charles XIII. (Inn), which affords a good survey of the scene. From this point the traveller is recommended to drive to (98 Kil.) Skutskc'ir, the next railway-station, a place with 1400 inhab., situated on the Baltic, and possessing extensive steam-saw-mills. Steamboats to Gefle, Elfka’rleby, etc. ; another steamboat also plies on the Dalelf daily from Husby-Kungsgdrd, near Elfkarleby, to A'vesta, near Krylbo (p. 365). Immediately beyond Skutskl'ir is (99 Kil.) Harna's. 114 Kil. (71 Gefle (Stadshuset; Central-Hotellet), a hand- some and rapidly increasing town, with 17,000 inhab., is an important commercial and manufacturing place, and the chief outlet for the export of the timber and metal yielded by the pro- vinces of Gestrikland, Helsingland, and Dalarne. It owes its substantial modern appearance to the great fire of 1869, which destroyed the whole of the quarter on the N. bank of the Gefled. Large Shipbuilding Wharfs. The town contains nothing to interest travellers, and the scenery is unattractive. A walk may be taken in the Stadstre'idgc'zrd and on the bank of the Geflefa. —- Steamboats ply frequently between Gefle and the principal ports on the Gulf of Bothnia; to Stockholm daily. Asteam-launch plies daily between Gefle and the fishing village of B6nan, to the N.E. of the town. FROM GEFLE 'ro FALUN. 92 Kil. (57 Engl. M.), railway in 3% hrs. (fares 5 kr. 50, 4 kr. 60, 2 kr. 75 6.). —— The country traversed is very uninteresting. Stations: Valbo; Margretehill' S'andviken, on the Storsjo', with extensive Bessemer steel-works; Kunstgarden. At (33 Kil.) Storvlk the line is crossed by the Sale. and Krylbo railway (R. 49). 55 Kil. Robertsholm; 59 Kil. Kdllviken. The train now enters the province of Dalecarlia. At Ryggen it reaches its highest point (704 ft. above the sea- level). Near (87 Kil.) Korsnc'is (370 ft.) we obtain a pleasant view of the Runn-Sjo'. 92 Kil. (57 M.) Falun, see p. 362. 48. From Gothenburg to Falun. 478 Kil. (296 Engl. M.). Railway (‘Bergslagernas Jernva'gar") in two days, spending the night at Daglo'sen (fares. 35 kr. 30, 17 kr. 65 6.). —--~ The railway, which traverses the province of Dalsland, and connects the rich mining district (‘Bergslager‘) of Vermland with the great S.W. port of Sweden, offers few attractions to the tourist. The trains are slow, the scenery for long distances together is destitute of special attraction, and even Falun itself is uninteresting. Most tourists. will therefore avoid this journey, although it is included in the district for which circular tickets are issued by the Swedish _railways. From Gothenburg to Demand (82 Kil., 51 Engl. M.), the junction of the Venersborg-Uddevalla line, see p. 287. To the N. we have 360 Route 48. LUDVIKA. From Gothenb'urg a view of the Halleberg, and the Hunneberg (p. 288). -- The line runs to the N ., passing (97 Kil.) Fra'ndefors, (10,6 Kil.) Brdlanda, and (114 Kil.) Erilcstad, to -— 123 Kil. (76 Engl. Mellerud, junction of theSunnand- Fredrikshald line 277). 131 Kil. Kdpmannabro, where the line crosses the Dalslands Canal (p.0276) which at this point issues from Lake Venern. -- 144 Kil. Animskog, 155 Kil. Tiisse. — 164 Kil. Amdl, a little town with 2000 inhabitants. View of the lake to the right. Passing (181 Kil.) Seffle, the train crosses a canal of the same name, which connects the Byeloen, and through it the extensive Glasfiord, with Lake Venern, and then threads its way among the numerous lakes of South Vermland. -— 189 Kil. Vermlandsbro, 200 Kil. Segmon, 210 Kil. Grums, 221 Kil. Eds-calla. 232 Kil. (144 Engl. Kil (p. 306), the junction of the Nordvestra Stambana (R. 41), and of a short branch -line to Frykstad. 248 Kil. Deje, with ironworks and a waterfall, on the Klarelf, which the line here crosses by a handsome bridge. — 254 Kil. Mb'lnbaclca, 264 Kil. Mollcom, 271 Kil. Lindfo-rs, 279 Kil. Geijersdal. 293 Kil. (182 Engl. Dagldsen, at the S. end of Lake Dag- liisen. > From Dagliisen a branch-line runs in 20 min. to (7 Kil.) Filipstad (Stadshotel), also a station on the branch-line mentioned at p. 307, pleas- antly situated at the N. end of the Daglo'sen. Finest view from the neighbouring Hastaber'g. Numerous iron-mines in every direction. -— Railway (72 Kil. , in 5 hrs.) from Filipstad via Moka‘rnshyttan, not far from which is Rdmen, where Tegnér spent a great part of his early life, to Uddeholrn and Edebdck on the Ktarelf, with extensive iron-works. 304 Kil. (1881/2 Engl. Herrhult, where our line is crossed by the branch-line from Christinehamn to Persberg and Filipstad (p. 307). —- 326 Kil. Grythyttehed, 334 Kil. Hellefors, 341 Kil. Sihfors, 352 Kil. Bredsjii, all with iron-works. Numerous lakes are passed. , At (372 Kil.) Stiilldalen the Bergslagernas line crosses the Frdvi-Ludvika line mentioned at p. 309 ; and these two lines run parallel to each other from this point to (384 Kil.) Hiirlcen, (392 Kil.) Grc'ingesberg, (399 Kil.) Klenshyttan, and Ludvika. Be- tween the lakes Norra Hbrken and Sodra Ho'rken the construction of the railway is an object of interest. At Grangesberg we cross the boundary between Vestmanland and Dalecarlia. 408 Kil. (253 Engl. Ludvika. (*Inn, not expensive), prettily situated on Lake Vessman (500 ft.), and connected by a branch— line (Marnas-Sandsta-Munkbo; 18 Kil.) with Smedjebacken, on the Striimsholms Canal (see below). The Strbmcholms Canal, which together with the lakes connected by it is about 60 Engl. M. in length, was constructed in 1777-95, and remod- elled in 184260, for the, urpose of, connecting the great mining-districts of Dalarne with Lake alaren and the Baltic. This water-highway reaches its highest level at Smedjebacken, from which it descends 32511.v to Falun. sTRoMsHoLM. 4s. toate. 361 to Lake Malaren by means of 1:") locks. Steamers ply between Stockholm and Smedjebacken almost daily, some starting from Riddarholmen (p. 314) . and others from the Kati-Torg. Passengers are allowed to spend the night preceding the start and that succeeding the arrival on board. The passage between Stockholm and Stromsholm, through Lake Malaren (7-8 hrs., comp. p. 342), is somewhat monotonous, but the canal itself is one of the ‘most interesting in Sweden. We here describe the descent of the canal from Smedjebacken to Stromsholm. ' The steamer first traverses the pretty Nom'a and So‘di'a Baa-ken. Lakes (327 ft.), between which are the picturesque church and parsonage of So'der- bdrke. It next enters Lake Vefungen, where the classic soil of Dalarne (p. 363) is quitted, and then descends through three looks at Semla. At Fagersta (another lock) is one of the largest iron-works in Sweden, with rolling-mills, etc., where gun—barrels are largely manufactured for the Karl Gustaf establishment at Eskilstuna (p. 349). Other important manufac~ tories are situated at Uddna's (lock) and Vestanfors (lock), at which last Bessemer steel is largely manufactured. We now enter the Stora Aspen Lake and beyond it Lake Ama'nningen (250 ft.), a large sheet of water, on the E. bank of which the steamer touches at —— Engelsberg, a place of some importance, as it lies on one of the rail- ways from Stockholm to Storvik, Falun, and Gefle (p. 365). —- At Virsbo (lock) we enter the Virsbosjo', beyond which follows a long canal-reach to Seglingsberg (lock), with another manjifactory (also a railway-station). The steamer next traverses the lakes Ufre and Nedre Nadden (230 ft.) and another part of the canal, where two locks descend to — Ramnas (railway-station, p. 310), with numerous manufactories in the neighbourhood and a church, where the most picturesque scenery on the canal begins. The route next leads through the Noi'rbystro'ui. and past the extensive iron-works of Sujrahammar (two locks), into the Ost-Surasjo' (179 ft.), which is quitted at Alsatw'a (look). A little farther on is Twang- fors (three locks); then *Skansen (Inn; two locks), the most beautiful point on the canal, and So'rqvao'n (three locks). \Vhilst the steamer is passing through these eight locks, by means of which it descends about 126 ft., passengers have ample time to land and inspect the picturesque waterfalls of the Kolbiickséi, near Sorqvarn, and the surrounding scenery. Fart-her on, the steamer passes the waterfalls So'rstafors (with a large paper-mill) and Prestfors by means of a look, beyond which it passes under the railway at Kolba'ck. We next descend two more locks at Vesterqvarn, and then the last of the series at -—- Striimeholm (Elmstro'm‘s Hotel), where the level of Lake Mc'ilaren, about 2 ft. only above the Baltic, is reached. Stromsholm lies at the influx of the Kolbackszci into the lake. The old castle here was built by Gustavus Vasa (d. 1560) and presented by him to his queen Katharina Stenbock, who spent her widowhood here and died at the castle in 1621. Another royal residence, designed by Tessin, and still well preserved, was erected on the castle-island by Hedvig Eleonora, the queen of Charles X. —- An excellent stud of horses is kept here. -— Railway from Striimsholm to Kolback (and Stockholm), see R. UL. 417 Kil. (‘Z58 Engl. Grc'isberg, 426 Kil. Riimen, on a lake of the same name; 435 Kil. ~Skréicka; 455 Kil. Borlc'inge, junction of a branch-line to Krylbo (p. 365). At (456 Kil..) .Domnarfvet, a lofty bridge carries the line over the Klarelf, which here forms a waterfall. There is a large saw-mill on the bank. -— 461 Kil. Orna's, at the S.W. end of Lake Runn, on which a steamboat plies. Orniis and the banks of the Runnsjo are classic soil in Swedish history. At the- S.E. end of the lake is Rankhyttan, with the barn (kungslada) in which Gustavus Vasa when a fugitive and disguised asa Dalkarl 'cnce thrashed corn. At Or'nc'is he was enabled by Bar-bro Stays- elotter vto elude his pursuers', to whom her husband Arendt Person was 362 Route 48. FALUN. about to betray him. His bed and other memorials are still shown here in the Kungskammare, from the window of which Barbro let him down by a long towel. 478 Kil. (‘296 Falun (*Dala Hotel, not expensive; Nya, Hotellct; Falu Hotel), the capital of Da-lame (Dalecarlia), with 7000 inhab., far famed for its copper-mines, lies between lakes Varpan and Tisken, on both banks of a small stream, and in the vicinity of the Runn-Sjo. The town has obviously grown out of a group of separate villages, the names of which still survive. 0n the E.nbank of the stream are Ostanfo'rs, Lallarfvet, Ofra and Yttra Asen, Slaggen, and Holman; on the W. bank Presttz'igten, Gamla Herrgd'rden, and Elsbo'rg. The principal buildings are the Kristina-Kyrka in the Stortorg, the Kopparbergs-Kyrka, with its green copper roof, the‘Rddhus, the Gymnasium, and the Magasin- hus, which contains a collection of minerals. The Villa at Lillarf- vet and Manhcm to the E. of the town are popular resorts. Towards the S.W. the whole face of the country presents the appearance of having been burned up by the Rostro'k, or smoke from the Rosthdgar (‘roasting hills’) which surround the mines. This smoke vblackens all the wood exposed to its influence, and gives metals a spotted appearance, but it is believed to be an ex- cellent disinfectant, and to have warded oil‘ the cholera and other epidemics on several occasions. The fumes of the vitriol of copper in the mine itself have still more marked preservative properties. In 1719 the body of a young man named Matts Israclson, with the sobriquet Fet—Mats, who had perished in the mines 49 years pre- viously, was recovered, and was so well preserved that it was im- mediately identified by an old woman to whom he had been be— trothed. For 21 years more it was preserved in a glass case, but at length fell to pieces and was buried. The Falu Grufva or Slora Kopparbergel (corrupted to Kdrberget) has been known to history since 1347, but was probably worked at a still earlier period. The yield was formerly much larger than at the present day (20,000 skeppund, or about 3322 tons annually in the 17th cent., but rgow 4-5000 skeppund, or 664-830 tons only). At one time the mines of Atm'daberg in Oster-Gotland ( . 303) even took precedence of those of Falun, but they now yield about 30 tons only per annum. As in the middle ages, therefore, the mines of Falun still claim the distinction of being the - ‘Treasury of Sweden‘ (Sveriges Skattka'mmare). The proprietors are called Eierdeparlsegm'e, of whom in the year 1616 there were as many as 1%0. Each Eierdepart is worth about 4000 crowns. The company is called the Stora Kopparbergs Bergslag. The most interesting spot here is known as Stoten, the site of a mine whose roof subsided in 1687, and now an abyss ‘290 ft. deep, 1160 ft. long, and 640 ft. wide. -—- Visitors (adm. from 9.30 a.m. to 4 p.m.) are provided with miners’ attire (6fverkliider) at the mining-office (grufstuga) and with a miner (stigare) as a guide (fee 3-5 kr. , according to the number of the party; ad- ditional fee for gunshots fired to awaken the echoes). The descent is at first by a wooden staircase and afterwards by iron steps. At a depth of nearly 700 ft. we enter theso-called Rddssal DALECARLIA. 48. Route. 363 (‘council-chamber’). The ground is very wet at places, and the usual lighting very inadequate. Those who have conscientiously resolved to see all the lions of Sweden will of course not omit to visit these mines, but the expedition can hardly be called a very attractive one. —- The Grufstuga contains an interesting collection ofportraits, old charters, antiquities, minerals, etc. A visit should also be paid to the Koppa'rhytta, where the ore is successively converted by smelting into Skr'i'rsten, into rd-koppar(‘raw copper’), and finally into gar-koppa'r (‘pure copper’). DALECARLIA. The province of Dalame or Dalccarlia is famed for its mineral wealth (the S.E. portion in particular), its pictur- esque scenery, and its interesting historical associations, and is not undeservedly regarded by the Swedes as one of the finest parts of their vast territory. The inhabitants of the banks ofLake Siljan and of the more remote parts of the district have preserved many of their primitive characteristics. They are generally poor, owing to the great subdivision of the land, but they supplement their agricultural pursuits with the manufacture of watches, bells, fur- niture, grindstones, and other crafts, which they carry on in their own houses (husslo'jd). Many of the young men (Dalkarlar) and young women (Dalkullor) seek employment in other parts of the country, and return with their earnings to settle in their native province. In their ideas of cleanliness they are somewhat behind the age, but there are very fair inns at all the principal places to which travellers resort. The best time to visit Lake Siljan is in the height of summer, when the vegetation is in perfection, and when the younger members of the community while away the long twilight with dances around the richly decked village may-poles. ‘ The most convenient starting-point for a visit to Lake Siljan is Borliinge (p. 361) which is easily reached by railway from Falun (pp. 362, 361) or from Smedjebacken and Ludvika (p. 360). An omnibus or ‘diligence’ runs every morning from Borlange to (1/2 hr.) Bé'ztsta or Bdtstad on the Dalelf (fine view from the neighbouring Predikstol), from which a small steamer ascends the river to (2 hrs.) Gagnefs Kyrka, whence a short drive by another omnibus to Grdsta and a steamer on the Dalelf and Insjii convey us to ~— Leksand (*Gfisigifvaregdrd) or Leksand-Noret. The large vil- lage, with its handsome church, is prettily situated near the efflux of the Dalelf from the Ostcrvik, the long S.E. bay of Lake Siljan (553 ft.), a picturesque sheet of water 40 Engl. M. in length, and enclosed by banks of moderate height. The place used to be famous for the interesting scene witnessed here on Sunday mornings, when the inhabitants of the banks of the lake flocked hither from all directions in their large eight or ten-oared' boats to attend di- vine service. The custom, however, has to some extent fallen into disuse, as Siljansm'is, to the N.W., now possesses a church of its 364 Route 48. MORA. own. If possible, however, it is still worth while to spend a Sun- day at Leksand or at Mora for the sake of seeing the picturesque holiday costumes. From outlying districts the peasantry fre- quently bring the bodies of persons who have died during the week to be buried in the churchyard. If time permit, the travel- ler should ascend the Kt‘iringsberg near Leksand for the sake of the view. Leaving Leksand, the steamboat steers to the N. , passing the peninsula of Siljansna's on the left, where the Bjdrkberg is another fine point of view. To the right opens the Ratt'vik, at the head of which is the village of that name, with its large church, beauti- fully situated in the ‘Arcadia of Dalarne.’ The steamboat touches here twice weekly in each direction. This is considered by many the finest point on the lake, and it may also be reached from Lek- sand by a picturesque road by the Bergsa'ngbachar and Utby. From Rattvik a drive may be taken to (11 Engl. Ofoanmyran and the Styggfors, a small waterfall 200 ft. in height, in the midst of wild and picturesque scenery. Steering to the W. , and passing the Bjorkberg, we next ob- serve the twin bays of Olsna's'uik and Limé’wik on the left. Farther up the lake is the large island Sollero'n, to the W. of which, on the mainland, rises the Gesundaberg (1125 ft.), the highest hill on the banks of the lake. After a voyage of 4% hrs. we reach — Mora (*Gastgifvaregdrd), a large village, pleasantly situated at the N.W. end of Lake Siljan, with which various reminiscences of Gustavus Vasa are associated. Near the bank of the lake here is the so-called Kloclcgropsbacke, from which Gustavus once ad- dressed the people. The neighbouring Kristineberg commands a fine view. A little to the SW. of Mora is Utmeland, where a monument marks the site of the cellar in which the wife of Tomt- Mats Larsson with great presence of mind concealed the fugitive Gustavus from his Danish pursuers, covering the entrance with a beer-vat. The room in the interior of the monument is adorned with three pictures, by Hiickert, E. Berg, and Charles XV. 49. From Stockholm via Upsala to Cstersund and Throndhjem. 854 Kil. (530 Engl. 11,). RAILWAY in 57 hrs., including two halts for the night at Bollnds and Ostersund. From Stockholm to Storlien we travel by the Swedish Nord—Stambana, the last section of which (from Ostersund to .Nc'ilden) was completed in July, 1882. From Storlien to Throndhjem we proceed by the Norwegian Railway. A through-train, accomplishing the entire distance in 33 hrs., runs in July and August only. Fares from Stockholm to Throndhjem 45 kr. 15, 29 kr. 70 6.; from Upsala to Throndhjem 41 kr. 70, 23 kr. 40 o. ' From Stockholm to (66 Kil.) Upsala, see p. 350. The rgilway traverses an uninteresting district. 79' Kil. Véinge; 86 Kil. Aland; 100 Kil. Vittinge; 107 Kil. Morgongdfoa; 113 Kil. Heby.~ STORVIK. 49. Route. 365 128 Kil. (79 Sala (Hotellet; Gr'islgifvaregdrd), a town with 4500 inhab., founded by Gustavus Adolphus in 1622, is famous for its Silfoergrufva, the principal silver-mine in Sweden. The yield was formerly very considerable, and the mine was styled ‘Rikes skattkammare och yppersta klenod’ (the treasury and chief gem of the kingdom), but it has greatly decreased of late years (now about 1500 lbs. only). Lead-ore and litharge are now the minerals chiefly worked here. A visit to the mine, which is nearly 1000 ft. in depth, is attended with less discomfort than in the case of the other Swedish mines. At the interesting Sala Hytta on the Sala Da-mm, to the N. of the town, the various processes of refining the silver should be inspected. —- From Sala a railway diverges to the S. to Tillberga and Veste-ras (p. 310). -— 138 Kil. Broddbo; 150 Kil. Rosshyttan. 161 Kil. (100 Krylbo (Inn, poor), where we reach the Dalelf, the historic frontier river of Dalarne, is the junction for the railway to Engelsberg (p. 361), Seglingsberg, Ramna's (p. 361), and Tillberga (p. 310). About 6 Engl. M. to the W. of Krylbo is Brunnbc'ick, where the Dale- carlians routed the Danes (‘Jutar‘) in 1521. ‘Brunbacks elf ar val djup, ocksii bred, Der siinkte vi s23. manga Jutar ned. Sii kordes Danskar ur Sverige.” (Old Ballad.) FROM KRYLBO TO BoBLANGE, 64 Kil. (40 Engl. M.), railway in 2l/2-4 hrs. (fares 4 kr. 50 2 kr. 60 6.). -— Stations: Avesta, 23 Kil. Hedemora, a small town with 1 inhab., and large iron-works; 30 Kil. Vikmanshyttan; 37 Kil. Kullsoeden, whence a branch-line diverges to Bispberg; 39 Kil. Sitter, with 550 inhab., prettily situated in the Stilersdal; 50 Kil. Gustafs; Q5;}Ki1.1_3(»55'1t0ra Tuna. Then (64 Kil.) Boa'lc'inge. From Borlange to Falun, Iileyond Krylbo the train crosses the Dalelf by a bridge 660 ft. long and traverses a productive mining district. 165 Kil. Jularbo ; 171 Kil. Fors; 179 Kil. Morsh'yttan; 185 Kil. Homdal; 190 Kil. Byvalla; 202 Kil. Ht'istbo; 209 Kil. Torscciker. 219 Kil. (136 M.) Storvik (Wahlgren’s Inn), the junction of the Gefle and Falun railway (p. 359). » The train now traverses the district of Gestriksland, parts of which are well-wooded and fertile. Numerous small iron-works. 226 Kil. xlshammar; 235 Kil. Ja'rbo. 257 Kil. Ockelbo, with ex- tensive iron-works, connected by rail with the mines of Vindhiim or‘ Vintjern. The train then crosses the Nora-d. 274 Kil. Lingbo, the first station in the province of Helsingland; 284 Kil. Holm- sveden. 300 Kil. (186 M.) Kilafors, whence a branch-line runs to- Kilafors Nedre, on the Bergvik, a lake-like expansion of the river Ljusne. Kilafors Nedre is connected by steamer and railway with Siiderbamn (p. 368). Our line now ascends the valley of the Ljusne, through a wooded and agricultural region. The river forms a chain of small lakes. Farther on thetrain crosses the Voama, a feeder of the Ljusne. 366 Route 49. o-sTERsUND. 317 Kil. (1961/2 Engl. Bollnas ('Jemviigs-Hotel, at the station; Gc'istgifvaregdrd), formerly the terminus of the line, and now the station where several trains stop for the night. --— 332 Kil. Arbrd; 337 Kil. Vallsta, on the Orsjd; 353 Kil. Karsjd, on the Tefsjo. In summer small steamers ply upon the Orsjii and the Tefsjii. The scenery now assumes more and more of a northern character, with deep valleys lying between lofty mountains. Beyond (365 Kil.) Jerfsii the line crosses the Ljusne-Elf. —- 380 Kil. (‘236 Engl. M.) Lj'usdal (Inn); about 20 Min. to the E. lies Delsbo on Lake Dellen, whence in summer a steamer sails to Nc'is'viken (Hudiksvall, p. 368). The line now skirts the Vexnesjii and the Letsjd to (408 Kil. or 253 Engl. M.) Hennan, at the S. end of a lake of the same name (770 ft). 428 Kil. Ramsjii, 446 Kil. Mellansjd, also on lakes bearing the same names. The scenery beyond this point becomes wild and wooded. —— 464 Kil. Ostavall, the first station in the district of Medelpad, on Lake Alde'rn, an expansion of the Ljungd. The train follows the imposing river for some distance, crossing it twice, and runs through a wooded and hilly district. 473 Kil. Alby. From (484 Kil. or 300 Engl. M zlnge (Inn) a branch-line runs to the E. to (38 Kil.) Torpshammar, whence it is con- tinued to Sundsvall (p. 368). At Torpshammar there are large iron-works. The main-line proceeds to the N.W. 515 Kil. Brc'icke, at the S. end of the Refsundsjii, along which the train runs, partly over embankments and partly through cuttings. 526 Kil. Sta/‘re; 539 Kil. Gc'illd. The name of (553 Kil.) Pilgrimstad, at the N. end of the Refsundsjii, preserves the memory of the mediaeval pil- grimages to the grave of St. Olaf in Throndhjem (p. 215). —- 505 Kil. Brunflo. -— The line next reaches the large *Storsjii (1010 ft. above the sea-level), surrounded with beautiful scenery, in which the dark pine and fir forests contrast finely with the yellow cornfields. In the foreground lies the island of Fr6s6; and in the distance the dark Ouiksfiellen and the A-reskutan (see below). In summer a steamer plies upon the lake, touching at Brunfio, Ostersund, Trangsviken (see below), Mdrsill (see below), and other‘ laces. 586 Kil. (363 M.) 0stersund (Jern'vt'igs Hotel at the station, new; Gdstgifvaregdrd), the capital of the province of Jemtland and the seat of the ‘Landhofding’ (governor), was founded in 1786. and contains ‘2900 inhabitants. It ‘is pleasantly situated on the E. bank of the Storsjii, opposite the lofty island of Friisii, with which it is connected by a bridge, 14‘20 ft. in length. The streets are broad and handsome, most of the houses being built of timber. OnHFrIisii, near the bridge, stands a Runic stone to the memory of Ostmadur, the son of Gudfast, the first Christian missionary to this district. The church on this island, with walls 10 ft. thick, NALDEN. 49. Route. 367 is one of the oldest in N. Sweden. The churchyard commands a beautiful *View of the lake, with the snow-covered mountains to the W. Farther on, the line skirts the N.,)bank of the Storsjii, crosses the Semsd, and beyond (594 Kil.) Asjo' the Indalself. 607 Kil. Krokom, after which we enter a dreary wooded and marshy region. Skirting the S. bank of the Ndldsjd we next reach —— 618 Kil. (383 Nc'ilden. The train now crosses successively the Ford, which connects the Naldsjo with the Alsensjii, the Ytterd beyond (624 Kil.) Ytterdn, the little Qvamd beyond (633 Kil.) Trdngsoiken, and the Semd, near its entrance into the Oclcesjii, beyond (644 Kil.) Mattma'r. All these rivers and lakes form with the Storsjo an extensive inland water-system, upon which, as already mentioned, steamboats ply. -— 655 Kil. Miirsill. -— 665 Kil. Hjerpen, at the point where the Hjerpstrom enters Lake Lithen, the best starting-point for the ascent of the Ares- kutan (see below). -—- Crossing the Hjerpstrdm we proceed along the Underdkersd to (6708 Kil.) Underc'zlcer, and thence, skirting the riresjo', to (691 Kil.) Are, with copper-mines, at the foot of the Areslautan (5380 ft.), which may be ascended hence by a steep path. Night—quarters and guides are to be found (in the neigh- bouring villages of Morcikgn, Lund-Lien, and Vilcen. Of the two ways to the Aa'eskutan, the longer but easier from Hje-rpen (5-6 hrs.) is usually chosen (comp. p. 220). We drive from the station in ‘Skjuts‘ to the Gdstgifvaregc‘ird Hjerpen, and thence past Bond'set and Huséi Ba'ulc to the base of the cone, which we ascend on foot. The view of the surrounding mountain chains and the numerous mountain lakes is very fione. Several of the most important rivers of Scandinavia, such as the Angermanelf, the Indalself, the Ljusneelf, the Sto'rdalself, and the Mom- men, take their rise here, anod separate to all the points of the compass. , Along the N. sideoof the Areskutan runs the road to Levanger (p. 219). About 20 Kil. from Are lies Tdnnsjo'n, near which the Tdnna forms the Tdnnfors, described as“SWeden’s most beautiful waterfall". The fall,which is divided into two arms by the “Bears” Rock”, is about 100 ft. high and 40 ft. broad. o 700 Kil. (434 Engl. Dufed; 723 Kil. Ann, on a lake of the same name; 735 Kil. Enafors, on the Enaelf. The country round is chiefly wooded and marshy. -— 748 Kil. Storlien, the last station in Sweden. The Norwegian continuation of the line to Throndhjem (854 Kil. or 530 Engl. M.) is described at p. 218. 50. From Gefle to Sundsvall and Haparanda. The Swedish Norrland. ' STEAMBOAT from Gefle to Sundsvall (43 sea-miles) in 27 hrs. (fares 131/2, 11, 7 kr.), or from Stockholm, 80 M., in 40-48 hrs. (fares 15, 1'2, 8hr), usually twice weekly in summer. Steamer from Sundsvall to Haparanda (111 sea-miles) weekly in 3 days (fares 371/2 or 31 kr.), others to Hemo- sand 23 times weekly in 7-8 hrs. —— Sundsvall is also connected by a branch-railway (see below) with the great North Swedish railway to Ostersund and Throndhjem. . . I The vast Swedish ‘Norrland’ is comparatively seldom visited 368 Route 50. SUNDSVALL. From Gefle by travellers, the points of interest being few in number, the distances very great, and the means of communication imperfect. The principal places are briefly mentioned in this route. To the N '. of Ostersund the scenery will not adequately repay the traveller, unless he purposes crossing to Norway from Lulez‘i via Qvickjock, or proceeding from Haparanda to Avasaxa in order to see the mid- night sun. -— Travellers from the south effect a slight saving of time by taking a train on the great northern Swedish railway from Storvik to Throndhjem as far as Kilafors (p. 365), and proceeding from Kilafors Nedre (see p. 365) by steamboat to Berg'vik and by railway to Siide-rhamn, but most travellers will prefer to take a steamboat direct from Stockholm or from Gefie to Sundsvall. The steamboat’s course is protected by a ska'rgdrd, or belt of is- lands, nearly the whole way from Stockholm to Srrnd-svall, and the voyage is a pleasant one in fine weather. The first important station to the N. of Gefle is (13 —— Stider-hamn (Siiderhamn Hotel), a seaport with 6200 inhab., prettily situated at the N. end of the Siiderfjt'ird, a bay of the Gulf of Bothnia. The town, on which municipal privileges were con- ferred by Gustavus Adolphus in 1620, has been often burned down, and since the last fire (1860) has been almost entirely rebuilt. The staple commodities are iron from the neighbouring foundries and timber from the interior of the province of Helsingland. Local steamboats ply daily to several of the neighbouring vil— lages, including Ljusne at the mouth of the Ljusneelf, to the S. Railway to Bergcile, and steamer thence to Kilafors, see p. 365. Hudiksvall (Stadskt'illare; Gc'istgifvaregdrd), the next steam- boat-station, 12 M. to the N. of Soderhamn, a town with 3700 inhab. , is connected by a short branch-line with Forssa, whence a steamboat plies to several stations on the Norra and So'dra Dellen lakes. (Delsbo, see p. 366.) In the environs are several large iron-works and saw -mills. — The next important steamboat- station, 18 M. to the N. of Hudiksvall, is —— Sundsva11(Stadshuset; Hotel Thule), a considerable and in- creasing seaport and manufacturing town, with 7600 inhab., situated at the mouth of the Seldngerd. It was founded by Gusta— vus Adolphus in 1624, plundered and burned down by the Rus— sians in 1719, and afterwards rebuilt in a more substantial style. Several extensive saw-mills and iron-works in’ the neighbourhood, chiefly on the coast, with harbours of their own. —— Several local steamers ply to the villages and manufactories in the vicinity. FRom SUNDSVALL rro TORPSHAMMAR, 58 Kil. (36 Engl. M.), railway in 3 hrs. (fares 4 kr. 30, 2 kr. 70 6.). The first station is Vattjom, whence a small branch-line diverges to the iron-works and sawmills of'illatfors, on the Ljunge-Elj. Th .n Nedansjo', Kdrfsta,.uand Vim/n. Torpshammar, and railway thence to nge, on the Storvik, Ostemund, and 'Ilhrondhjem line, see p. 366. ' The first important place to the N. of Sundsvall is (10 M.) —— to Hapardnda. HERNOSAND. 50. Route. 369 Herniisand (Hotellet Norrland), a seaport town with 5000 in- hab. , founded in 1584, and now the seat of a bishop and the ‘landshdfding’ or governor of the province. Handsome new church, consecrated in 1846. Engine-works , timber-yards, saw- mills, and several manufactories. The town itself, which lies on an is- land near the mainland, is uninteresting, but is important to travellers as the starting-point for a visit to the * germanelf, the most beautiful river in Sweden. The Angermanelf, which descends from several lakes near the Norwegian frontier, is navi- gable as far as Sollefteii, about 65 Engl. M. from Herniisand. The broad estuary of the river opens about 3 sea-miles to the N. of Herndsand, and 6 M. from its mouth lies Nyland (Gastgifvare- gird), where the water is deep enough for large sea-going vessels. A steamer plies daily in summer from Herndsand , and another twice weekly from Sundsvall, to Nyland and Solleftez‘i, and a larger steamer usually runs from Stockholm to Herndsand and Nyland every fortnight. Above Nyland the Angermanland, as this district is called, is sometimes styled the ‘garden of Sweden’, and the banks of the river are well cultivated at places. The scenery is pleas- ing and picturesque all the way to (28 Engl. Sollefted (Hotel and Gastgifvaregard, both good), at the confluence of the Fare-Elf and the Angermanelf, a prettily situated place, where the vege— tation is unusually rich for so northern a latitude (60°). Travellers may drive hence to Liden, on the Norra Angermanelf, 28 Engl M. above Solleftea, another beautiful place. Instead of returning from Solleftea to the Gulf of Bothnia, the traveller may drive to Pil- grignstad (p. 366) and take the train thence to Sundsvall (p. 368) or 0stersund (p. 366). —— The next station to the N. of Hermi- sandZ a little beyond the Lungii lighthouse, is ( 15 M.) -— Ornskiilds'vik (Hotel), a small seaport with 610 inhab.fland several extensive timber-yards. About halfway between Orn- skdldsvik and Umeii, at the head of the Nordmalings-Fjord, lies ---. Nordmaling, another small seaport, of which timber is the staple commodity. We next reach, 18 M. from Ornskiildsvik, — Umed (Ga'stgifvaregdrd; Stadska'llare), the capital of Vester- bottens La'n, with 3000 inhab. , situated at the mouth of the Umed or Ume-Elf. Vessels of heavy tonnage cannot ascend the estuary beyond Holmsund. The ordinary coasting steamers , how- ever , proceed as far as Djupvik, from which passengers are con- veyed to the town by a smaller steamer. The town, founded in 1622, was repeatedly plundered by the Russians, and like most of the other timber-built'towns in Sweden has frequently been injured by fires. The staple commodities are timber, tar, and beer. Near the town the river is crossed by a wooden bridge, upwards of 300 yds. in length, resting on stone piers. -- To the N. of Umed the steamboat passes the lighthouses of Holmii, Gadd, and Fja‘der- (‘£99, and next touches at (10 M.) -— _ , I Bannnxnn‘s Norway and Sweden. 2nd Edit. ‘2,4 370 Route 50. LULEA. From Gcfle Ratan, a busy little seaport, trading chiefly in timber. A little farther N. is Djek‘neb‘o‘da, where the Swedes sustained a severe defeat in 1809 when attempting to drive out the Russian invaders. The next important station, 14 M. from Ratan, is — Skellofte'i. (Ka'l'la're), a little town with 700 inhab. , founded in 1845, and possessing a large and handsome church, the finest in the No'rrland , standing out as conspicuously, says L. v. Buch, as the temple ‘of Palmyra. The steamer stops at U'rsoik, at the mouth of the Skellefte—Elv, from which a small steam—launch con- veys passengers to the ‘town. The scantiness of the vegetation and the stunted character of the trees testify to the inclemency of the ‘climate (lat. 65°). —— The next station, 12 M. farther N., is —~ Pitefi. (Gc'istgifvaregc'zrd), a town with 2000 inhab., founded in 1620, and frequently plundered by the Russians and burned down. Several iron-works, timber-yards, and saw-mills in the neighbourhood. — This was formerly the seat of the provincial government, but the authorities are now established at (15 -- L'aleii. (Ga'stgifoaregdrd; Lundberg), the capital of No'r'rbotten Lc‘in, with 2600 inhab. , founded in 1621 , and repeatedly sacked by Russian m'arauders. As usual in these northern towns , the timber-‘trade forms the ‘chief resource of the inhabitants. Several saw-mills and a manufactory ofwood—wares. Here is the office of the ‘New Gellivai'a Company, Limited’, which possesses large estates in this province, and particularly the hill of Gellioa'ra, about 126 Engl. M. to the N.W., 1750 ft. inhei'ght, and described as con- sisting of one enormous mass of iron ore. The mines are, however, at present of little value, owing to their distance from the sea and the costliness of removing the ore. About the year 1860 it was proposed to facilitate the navigation of the Lule by means of canals passing the ‘rapids of Hedensfors and Edefors, so as to enable vessels to proceed ‘all the way to Storbacken, from which place a railway was to be constructed to 'Ge‘ll'iv‘ara. The works were actually begun, but have since been abandoned. Fa'ou LULEZ 'ro Qvro'xaoo'x am) TO Bone m NORWAY (about 600 Kil. or 370 Engl. M., a journey of 10-12 days). This is one of the grandest and~most interesting routes in Northern Sweden, penetrating into the heart of Lap- land and 'to a considerable distance beyond the Arctic Circle. As far'as (5-7 days) Qvickjock the route is attended with but few difficulties or privations, and tolerable quarters are procurable at the principal stations 3 but thence to (3-4 days) Fuske on the Saltenfjord (p. 236) the journey is very rough and fatiguing, and one night at least must be spent in a miserable h-ut, affording no accommodation of any kind. Enquiry should of coursebe made as to the steamboats before starting from Lulefi, and Forbud should be sent from station to station for horses, boats, ‘and even for lodging for the night. In the height of summer the mosquitoes are an almost insufferable torment, but before the end of June and after the middle of August the plague is more bearable. The Lule affords ood salmon-fishing as far as the first falls. Higher up, and in the lakes ormed by the river, there ‘is abundance of trout-fishing. The lake-trout here frequently weighs 20 ‘lbs. and upwards, but is a somewhat ‘coarse fish. The boatmen on the lakes receive 10-12 a. each per kilometre, according to a government itinerary which may be ‘procured at Lulefi, and to Hdparo'mda. ovlcKJocK. 50. Route. 371 a small fee (d-rz'ckepengar). The traveller should take with him preserv- ed meat, biscuits, and wine or spirits, the sale of the latter being prohib- ited in Lapland. He should also supply himself with a bag of small notes and coins, as change can rarely be got. A gauze bag to cover the whole head and shoulders will also be found a useful protection against the mosquitoes. —- The journey is usually divided as follows, but the traveller‘s plan of course depends on the steamboat arrangements: -- 1st Day. Steamboat to Riibacken in 3 hrs., walk or drive in 11/2-2 hrs. to Hedensfo'rs (a tolerable station), which derives its name from the rapids-here. About 8 Kil. above Hedensfors we reach a higher reach of the Lule, on which another steamer, stopping at Svartleci for dinner, con- veys us to Edefors (a fair station), at the foot of the cataract of that name. 2nd Day. Walk to Ofre Edefoa's in 1/2 hr., and take the small steamer thence to Storbacken (tolerable quarters), at the confluence of the Lilla and Stora Lule-Elf, about 30Kil. from Edefors; drive thence in 3—4 hrs. to Kaskats (poor inn), about 20 Kil. (travellers stopping here should cross the river and walk to the Form‘ Falls of the Lule, in about 4 hrs. there and back); and also, if time permit, to Mam's Udden, where the Arctic Circle is reached, and Jockmock (fair inn), 25 Kil., in 31/2-4 hrs. more. Visit the magnificent fall of the Lule in the vicinity. 3rd Day. Drive to Vaikiiam'by, a hamlet of fishermen’s huts, on the ‘Vaz'ki-Jaur in 1 hr. (excursion hence to the Njommelsaska Falls, see below), row to the head of the lake in 21/2-3 hrs.; walk to the Parki- Jam' in 1 hr., and traverse this lake by boat in 1 hr. more; then walk in 1 hr. to the Randi-Jam', the head of which is reached by boat in 2 hrs., next, a walk of 10 min. to the Parki-Jaur, and a row of 1 hr. and a walk of 20 min. to the Skalka-Jam'; lastly by boat in 1/4 hr. to Bjo'rkholm (a fair station), an island in the lake, situated about midwav between Jockmock and Qvickjock. v 4th Day. Ascend the Skalka-Jaur by boat to Tjomatz's in 3 hrs. (where the boatmen rest for an hour), and then the Tjomatis-Jaur to Niam‘ (a good station) in 3 hrs. more. 5th Day. Walk in 1/2 hr. to the lower end of the Saggat—Jaur; lastly row in 5 hrs. more to —— Qvickjock (poor station; travellers are also kindly received by the pastor, who makes no charge, but travellers should give at least as much as they pay at Jockmock), a very picturesque spot about 950 ft. above the sea-level, in about 67° N. latitude, whence the midnight sun is visible fully as long as from Body! (see table, p. 225), and longer than from the Avasaxa to the N. of Haparanda. The village consists of half— a-dozen-red timber-built houses and a church, and commands a fine view of the Kamajock and the Tarajock , which fall into the Saggat-Jaur in the neighbourhood. Excellent trout-fishing in the rivers and the lake. The summit of the Snejerak commands an extensive view, and is a good point from which to survey the midnight sun. -— Most travellers now return to Lulei by the same route, .which may be accomplished more rapidly than the ascent, being down hill and with the stream. Those who prefer to cross by the foot of the Sulitjelma to Norway must be prepared for some fatigue and privations, but will be rewarded by seeing the grandest scenery on this interesting route (comp. p. 236). . *FALL OF NJ6MMELsAsKA. This most imposing waterfall, with the cataract below it, is formed by the Stora Lule after it emerges from the Stora Lule-Jaur, or Great Lule Lake. It is situated about 30 Kil. to the N. of Vailmjjam'by (see above), where a guide may be obtained (5 kr. a day during the hay-harvest, at other times less). This excur- sion generally occupies the greater part of 3 days. First. Walk or drive from Jockmock .to Vaikijaur in 1 hr.; cross to the settlers’ huts at Vaikijaur by boat in 20 min., thence walk in 4-41/2 hrs. to Lfgga (poor hut with .no beds, but good milk and coffee), crossing a small lake on the way. (A boy should be sent on'the previous day, either from Jockmock or from Vaikijaurby, to ascertain that the boat is on the S. side of the lake. If this precaution is not taken, the traveller will have to walk round its marshy bank to the opposite side, a dis- 24* 372 Route 50. HAPARANDA. agreeable digression which will add about 2 hrs. to the journey). ~— Second. From Ligga to the Njiimmelsaska Falls a walk of 4-5 hrs. through a great forest, and back to Ligga, which the traveller will scarcely reach before evening, so that a second night must be spent in the comfortless hut. -— Third. Return to the Vaikijaur. A guide and a supply of pro- visions for the excursion are of course necessary. — The height of the waterfall is not more than 110 ft., but the stupendous cataract, formed by the long rapids above and below it, descends about 250 ft. in all, and, with the wild and trackless forest surrounding it, presents a strikingly impressive scene. The thunder of the fall is heard at a distance of many miles. To the N. of Lulea is Rained, a village with iron-works and timber-yards , to which a small steamboat plies, and to the E. of Rinea lies Neder-Kalix , an extensive timber-depot. On leaving Lulea the large steamers steer to the N.E. direct to (17' -— Haparanda (Hotel), the most northerly town in Sweden. with 1000 inhab., situated on the right bank of the Tomedelf, 740 Engl. M. from Stockholm. The sea-going steamers stop at the roads of Salmis, 41/2 Engl. M. below Haparanda, to which travellers pro- ceed either by road or by a small steamer on the Torneaelf. — Tamed, on the E. bank of the stream, now belongs to the Russian empire. To the N. of Haparanda, a little to the S. of the Arctic Circle, rises the Avasaxa, a bill which commands a perfect view of the midnight sun from June 22nd to June 25th. It is at this time visited by hundreds of travellers, though the voyage to the North Cape (R. 30) is much preferable. The tour from Haparanda to Mt. Avasaxa and back occupies 25-30 hrs., exclusive of a night’s rest. We drive by ‘skjuts’ through a fertile and well-cultivated district on the right bank of the Torneaelf. The scenery is sometimes pic- turesque. Stations: (17Kil.)Kz'tkkola, (18 Kil.) Korpikula, (16 Kil.) Pc'ik‘ila, (12 Kil.) Niemis, (21 Kil.) Riiskola, and (3 Kil.) Mata- rmgi (Inn; see p. 271), which is reached in about 11 hrs. We new hire a guide, cross the broad and rock-strewn Tornedelf in a flat-bottomed boat, and ascend over smooth and moss-clad rocks to (3/4 hr.) the top of Mt. Avasaxa (670 ft.), which commands a beautiful view of the valley of the Torneaelf and the hills enclos— ing it. This point was long the ‘Ultima Thule’ of aspiring tra- vellers, who could formerly reach the Arctic circle more easily from the head of the Gulf of Bothnia than by following the Nor- wegian coast. The church-register at Jukasjiirvi contains inter- esting entries made by many of them, which are recorded by Acerbi. The earliest of them is by Reignard, the French savant (1681), who concludes with the words -— ‘Sistimus hie tandem,‘ nobis ubi defuit orbis’. Charles XI. visited this spot in 1694, Linmeus in 1732, Celsius and Maupertuis in 1736, and Louis Philippe in 1796. Besides the books already referred to, Oscar Schmidt’s ‘Bilder aus dem Norden’ (Jena, 1851) , Bayard Taylor‘s interesting ‘Northern Travel‘ (1858), and Paul B. Du Chaillu’s ‘Land of the Midnight Sun‘ (London, 1882) may also be mentioned. ' ' 373 51. From Stockholm to Visby. STEAMBOAT four times weekly in 12-14 hrs. (fare 8 or 6 kr.). Three of the steamboats start at present from the Riddar- holmen quay, in which case their route traverses Lake Malaren, the Sddertelge Canal, and the fjord of the Baltic to the S. of Sil- dertelge (see p. 292), after which they steer nearly due S. to Visby. One of these sails round the island, calling, after Visby, at Klinte, Bu-rgs'oik, Rone, Slite, and Fci'riisund. Another steamer starts from the Blasieholmshamn, descends the fjord of the Baltic at the head of which Stockholm is situated, and then threads its way between the numerous islands forming the ‘skargard’ to the S.E. of Stockholm. In both cases the passage of the open sea takes 7-8 hrs., and is almost always performed at night. The Island of Gotland ( Gutaland), which is about 70 Engl. M. in length and 20-35 M. in breadth, lies between 56° 50' and 58° N. lat. and between 18° 70' and 19° 50’ E. long, at a distance of about 60 Engl. M._.from the mainland of Sweden and about 40 M. from the island of Oland. It consists of a plateau of limestone rock of the Silurian formation (overlaid with sandstone at the S. end), rising to a height of 80-100 ft., and terminating abruptly on the sea-board, where the cliffs are here known as landtborgar. On this plateau are a few isolated hills, as the Thorsborg (196 ft.) and the Hoburg (122 ft.), which must have been islands at the period when the surrounding plateau was covered by the sea. The highest hill in this region is in the island of Lilla Karlsii (244 ft.), which rises to the W. of Klintehamn. In every part of Gotland occur large boulders of granite and porphyry (grdstenar, vriikstenar, or rullstenar), deposited here by ice when the island lay under water. There are no valleys or brooks in the island worthy of mention, but a considerable part of its surface is covered with swamps (tra'sk), from which peat is dug (jestingly called the ‘gold-mines of Gotland’). The largest of these is the Lummelund- Trc'isk. The few scanty streams which the island contains are lost in the thirsty limestone soil, or in summer dry up altogether. Here and there, however, a spring wells forth from one of the ‘landtborgar’ in suffi cient volume to turn a mill—wheel. The lime- stone rocks are pierced with numerous grottoes, and at places , as at Kiltej, Boge, and Klintehamn, there are several so-called sten- jiittar (‘stone giants’), or isolated rocks 20-40 ft. in height, which have been formed by the action of water. In parts of the island the surface of the earth is covered with loose stones (Italic-Mapper), but the greater part of it is fertile and well cultivated. The cli- mate is mild, and the town of Visby boasts of flourishing mul— berry and walnut trees and of ivy climbing luxuriantly over its venerable walls. The population (56,000) is chiefly occupied with agriculture and cattle-breeding. The horses and sheep (here call- ed ‘russ’, and allowed to run wild in summer) of Gotland enjoy a 374 Route 51. GOTLAND. From Stockholm high reputation. Quarrying and lime-burning may be mentioned among the other resources of the island. Gotland forms a separate province of Sweden , having a Nationalbeviiring, or militia of its own, in which all the men between the ages of 18 and 50 are liable to serve, and contributing to the Swedish navy a small contingent (Rotering) of 260 men. -— Owing to their insular position, ‘the people of Gotland have retained many primitive characteristics, and traces of their national poetry and sagas still survive. They pride themselves on speaking purer Swedish than the Stock- holmers, and they generally pronounce more distinctly. Their more frequent use of diphthongs recalls to some extent the Gothic of Ulphilas. One of the chief curiosities of the island consists in its numerous churches (about one for every 700 inhab.), some of them very handsome buildings, with their large detached towers, known as castellar, probably ancient places of refuge and much older than the churches themselves. The roads are good, and the inns fair. The HISTORY of Gotland is inseparable from that of Visby, its capital, the ancient ‘place of sacrifice’ (from vi, ‘victim’; oiga ‘consecrate’), situated at the foot of the Klint, a ‘landtborg7 on the N.W. coast of the island. The town owed its early prosperity as the great emporium of the Baltic to its convenient position on the great commercial route established in the 12th cent. between Asia, Novgorod in Russia, and the Baltic, and at the point where this route was intersected by the stream of western European traffic. Owing, however, to interruptions by the Mongolians and to other causes, the eastern traffic was gradually diverted to southern Europe, and even began to find its way round the Cape of Good Hope. In 1361 the town was captured by Valdemar Atterdag, king of Denmark, and this catastrophe also contributed to its decline. It was an important factory of the Hanseatic League, where all the principal nations of Europe had their representatives. The Ger- man element, however, preponderated, half of the members of the council and one of the two superior magistrates usuallybeing Germans. On the whole, however, Visby maintained its character as the free international seaport of the Baltic, and this is con-y firmed by the fact that the principal churches of the place were erected by several of the different rival nations. —- The famous maritime Code of Visby , which has no pretension to originality, being a compilation from Netherlandish and Romanic sources, is called the ‘Waterrccht, dat dc Kooplilde und dc Schippers ge- maket hebben to Wisby’. —— The wealth of the town in its palmy days was proverbial: -— ‘Guld vaga de Gutar pi lispundviig Och spela med adlaste stenar. Svinen am 111' silfvertrig Och hustrurna spinna pa guld-tenar’. (Old Ballad). w Visby. GOTLAND. 51. Route. 375 (The Gotlanders weigh their gold with twenty-pound weights and play with the choicest jewels. The pigs eat out of silver troughs, and the women spin on golden distaffs.) Having become involved in the wars between Sweden and Denmark, Visby was attacked, as already mentioned, by Valde- mar III. of Denmark in 1361. He landed at Eista-Socken, to the S. of the town, and outside the gates of the city defeated the in- habitants, of whom 1800 fell. He then plundered the place, carry- ing ofi his booty to Denmark, but the largest of his vessels foundered near the Karlsoar, where it is said still to lie, laden with rich treasures. The annals of the following centuries are chequered with the varying fortunes of the wars between Sweden and Denmark. For a time the island was in the possession of the Teutonic Order, a period (according to Prof. Bergman, the author of ‘Gotlands Geografi och Historia’) still regarded by the natives as one of the happiest in their history; but it seems always to have formed a refuge for adventurers and marauders of all kinds, including the ‘Vitalienbriider’, Eric XIII. of Pomerania, the deposed king of Sweden, Ivar Axelson, and particularly Severin N orby, the Danish admiral. The possession of this ‘insula latronum’, as it is called by Adam of Bremen, was long contested by Swedes, Danes, and burghers of Liibeck, with varying success , but it was finally re- united to its proper mother-country by the Peace of Bromsebro in 1645. By this time, however, the prosperity of the place had dwindled to a mere shadow, and even so early as 1534 the Regent of the Netherlands writes, probably with some exaggeration, that Visby, once the most important commercial town in the Baltic, was then a mere heap of ruins. Visby (Stadshotellet, Strandgatan, Pl. B, C, 3 ; Smedman’s Hotel, H'zistgatan, Pl. 0, 3; Gc'istgifvaregdrd, at the Soderport, Pl. G, 5; Baths of the Nya Badhusbolag, immediately to the S. of the har- bour), which now contains about 6400 inhab., or less than one- third of its population in the days of its mediaaval prosperity, is picturesquely situated partly at the base of and partly upon the Ktint, a cliff 100 ft. in height, and now occupies less than half of the area enclosed by its walls. The unused space is covered with gardens, amidst which stand the imposing ruined churches, while the town is still almost entirely surrounded by its ancient wall with towers 60-70 ft. in height rising above it. Whether viewed from the sea or the land, the town presents a very imposing appear— ance. In summer it is much visited by the Stockholmers for the sake of the sea-bathing. (See Plan, p. 353.) Beautiful public * Walks between the town and the sea, afiord- ing views of both, are offered by the Botam'ska Trc'idgfird, the Student-Alle'e, and the Strandvc'ig. Near the tower of Silfverhatta (Pl. B, O, ‘2), or Mynt- Tomet, is 376 Route 51. GOTLAND. From Stockholm a cafe. Immediately above the bath-houses are Slottsparken and Palisaderna, and in the town Skolbetm'ngen. Another very inter- esting walk is through the Norra Stadsport to *St. Goran and the former gallows-hill, whence the finest view of the town and par- ticularly of the walls is obtained (see p. 377). Even more pictur- esque is the survey enjoyed from the K lint, above St. Mary’s Church. Visby is divided into four rotar or quarters, indicated on the Plan by varieties of shading. St. Hans-Rota, the oldest part of the town, contained most of the large churches; Strand-Rota ad- joins the old harbour, which is now filled up and covered with gardens; Nordes-Rota, the northern quarter, contains the churches of SS. Clement and Nicholas; and Klint-Rota forms an upper quarter of the town, lying between the lower parts and the eastern wall. The new Inner Harbour (lnre Hamnen; Pl. A, B, 4) affords but little protection to shipping, while the Outer Harbour ( Yttre Hamnen) is formed by breakwaters (vc'tgbrytare) on the W. side, which are frequently washed away by storms. The *TowN WALLS, erected at the close of the 13th cent. on the site of still earlier walls, form the most striking feature of Visby. From the Jungfrutorn (‘maiden’s tower’ ; Pl. O, 1) where, according to tradition, a treacherous maid of Visby who was in league with Valdemar, was built into the wall as a punishment, and the Games Tower (Pl. O, D, 1) on the coast, at the N.W. end of the town, they ascend the Klint towards the E., traverse the hill in a slight curve to the S. gate at the SE. angle of the town (Pl. 0, 5), and by the old castle of Visborg (see below) descend to the harbour at the SW. end of the town. On the land side the walls are about 2400 yds. in length, and on the side next the sea about 1970 yds. From the walls, at equal distances, and in several stories, rise a number of large Towers (Hogtornen) 60-70 ft. in height, provided with embrasures, and resting on the ground, while between them a series of bartizans (Hdngtornen, or Sadel- tomen) stand on the wall itself, being supported externally by means of corbels. Between these towers, and under the roof with which the wall is covered, formerly ran connecting passages for the use of the sentinels, resting on beams, the holes for which are still traceable. Of the 48 ‘high-towers’ with which the wall was once provided 38 are still in good preservation, but the bartizans have almost all disappeared. Outside the walls the old moat is still traceable, and on the 'N. side there are two moats parallel to each other. Of the once famous stronghold of Visborg (Pl. A, 4) above the harbour, a few fragments only now remain. Three of its ancient towers were named Smale Hindrik (‘thin Henry’), Kik-ut (‘look- out’), and ‘Sluk—upp’ (‘swallow up’). Visby once possessed three monasteries and at least fourteen Cannons s. Three of the latter have entirely disappeared, ten are to‘ Visby. GOTLAND. 51. Route. 377 in ruins, and one only is still used for divine worship. This is the Church of St. Mary (that of the Germans; Pl. D, 2), situated at the base of the Klint, erected in 1190-1225, but afterwards much altered. A large tower rises at the W. end, and two slender ones at the E. end. It is now the cathedral of Visby. The interior is uninteresting. The hill at the back of it commands the exten- sive * View already mentioned. To the W. of the cathedral are the ‘sister churches’ of St. Drotten (P1. 12) and St. Lars (Pl. 17), dating from the 12th cent., and provided with huge towers which were once probably used for defensive purposes. To the S. is *St. Catharine’s (Pl. 16), the church of the Franciscans, erected about 1230, once an elegant Gothic edifice, of which twelve lofty and slender pillars and the ribs of the vaulting are still standing. The Helge-Andskyrka, or Church of the Holy Ghost (Pl. 15), built in the Romanesque style about 1250, consists of two stories, one above the other, which have one choir in common. There are several similar double churches in Germany, as at Schwarz-Rhein- dorf, Eger, Steinfurt, and Coburg. Perhaps the most interesting of the ruined churches is that of *St. Nicholas (Pl. 19; I), In the handsome facade are two rose- windows, in the middle of each of which, says tradition, there once sparkled a brilliant carbuncle. These precious stones were carried off by Valdemar, and they are said still to illumine the depths of the ocean in the vicinity of the Karlsiiar. The church is partly in the Romanesque, and partly in the Gothic style, having probably been built after the middle of the 13th century. The interior is very picturesque. It is worth while to ascend to the overgrown roof, which presents a curious appearance and commands a fine view. The churches of St. Gertrude (P1. 13) and St. Olof (Pl. 20; to the S. of the Botanic Garden) and that of St. Hans (P1. 14; to the S. of the St. Hansplats) are now insignificant ruins. St. G6- ran (comp Pl. D, 1), to the N. of the town, is sometimes visited for'the sake of the beautiful view it commands 376). Near it is the Galgebacke, or gallows-hill, with the stones on which the gib- bet was formerly erected. — Visby still contains many interesting Dwelling-houses in the Hanseatic style, the finest of which is the Burmeister house in the Ddnplats, adorned with tasteful paintings and numerous German inscriptions. In the Korsbetning (Pl. D, 5), about 5 minutes’ walk beyond the S.E. gate of the town, rises a monolithic Cross, 9 ft. in height, marking the burial-place of the Gotlanders who fell in the battle of 27th July, 1361. ExoUnsroNs. With the exception of a few picturesque points on the coast, the scenery of Gotland is tame and unattractive, but to some travellers the numerous old Gothic churches will be an object of interest. A pleasant. drive or sail of 1hr. may be taken 378 Route 51. GOTLAND. From Stockholm to the promontory of *Hogklint, to the S. of Visby. Carriages stop at the Villa Fridhem, the property of Princess Eugenie, sister of King Oscar 11., with well-kept grounds, open to the public. The H6gklint is a bare rock, about 150 ft. high, with a few fisher- men’s huts on the beach below. Fine view of Visby, beyond the Buskeoz'k. Steps ascend on the W. side of the rock to a small pasture (Getsod'ltan) and a Cavern, divided into two parts by a pillar. The island now possesses a narrow-gauge RAILWAY, opened in 1879, which runs from Visby to (55 Kil. or 34 Engl. M.) Hemse in 3 hrs. (fares 3 kr. 30, 2 kr. 206.). The station at Visby is on the S. side of the town (Pl. B, 5). —- Stations: 13 Kil. Bardlingbo; 21 Kil. Roma, with an old Cistercian convent, now remodelled and used as the residence of the governor of the island; 27 Kil. Bjerges; 32 Kil. Butle; 40 Kil. Etelhem; 46 Kil. Sleinga, with an interesting old church. Then (55 Kil.) Hemse. Instead of using the railway, travellers are recommended to hire a carriage and drive round the whole island. We first proceed to the N., passing the church and grotto of Lummelund, to Fc‘iro'sund, the station of the French and English fleets during the war with Russia in 1855. Then along the E. coast to Rate, Slz'le, near which are Krillej and the curious rocks called the Stenjdtlar; Thoa'sborg, with an interesting circular in- trenchment, 1600 yds. in circumference; Ronehamn, to the E. of Hemse; and Refsudden, the southernmost promontory of the island. The S. part of the island is destitute of wood, but the curious promontory of Hoburg, at Refsudden, with its lighthouse and cavern, will repay a visit. From Refsudden we may return to Visby via Klintehamn, a village on the coast, 30 Kil. to the S. of Visby, visited by sea-bathers in summer (dili- gence and steamboat to Visby). From Klintehamn a visit may be paid to the picturesque Karlso'arne. This excursion affords a good opportun- ity of studying the handsome Gothic churches of the island with their castellated towers, most of them dating from the 13th century. The best guide-book for this journey is Gotland’s Konstht'stom'a by Brum'us. From Visby the traveller may either return to Stockholm by one of the four steamboats above mentioned, or proceed to Borg- holm and Kalmar (see p. 386), to which a steamer runs from Visby thrice weekly (to Borgholm 9-1() hrs., to Kalmar 2 hrs. more). 52. From Stockholm to Malmii by Nassjii. 618 Kil. (383 Engl. M.). RAILWAY in 181/2-38 hrs. (fares 43 kr. 30, 32 kr. 45, 21 kr. 65 6.; express 52 kr. 40 6., 37 kr.). Travellers who Wish to break the journey may spend the night at Linko'ping, Na'ssjo', or Norrkop- z'ng. A pleasanter way of varying the journey is to take the train to No'rsholm, proceed thence by steamer on the Go'ta Canal and Lake Vetter'n (Tues., Thurs., and Sat.) to Jo‘nko'ping, pass the night there, and go on by rail to Ma1m6 next day (comp. p. 301). — In each railway-compartment a notice is posted up, giving information of the stations at which the train stops to enable the traveller to dine and sup. From Nassjti to Malmo' (268_Ki1. or 166 Engl. M.), railway in 7-10 hrs. (fares 18 kr. 80, 14 kr. 10, 9 kr. 40 6.; express 22 kr. 80, 16 kr. 1O 6.). From Stockholm to (350 Kil.) Nc'issjii, see R. 40. Beyond Nassjo the train traverses the district of Smdland (so called from the ‘small patches of arable land’ with which it is sprin- kled),-which extends from Lake Vettern to Skane, 140 Engl. M. to the S. This region consists of moor, swamp, wild forest, lakes, and rocky islands, all intermingled in chaotic confusion and interminable to Malmo'. ALFVESTA. _ 52. Route. 379 succession. These features are peculiarly characteristic of Swedish scenery, recurring at very frequent intervals all the way from Mal- md to Haparanda. They most probably owe their origin to the action of the ice and snow with which the whole peninsula was once covered. The stones and rocks bear indications of having been worn and rounded by glacier—action, while the mounds of debris, the isolated patches of alluvial soil, the barren rocks, and the dreary moors are traceable to the agency of snow and torrents, resembling in many places the moraines of Switzerland. The forest (skog, from skugga, ‘shadow’, as contrasted with land, which signi- fies a pleasant ‘grove’), which clothes the greater part of this terri- tory, and the countless gloomy lakes, with which this district in particular is not inaptly said to be ‘riddled’, hardly contribute to enliven the scene. - The railway-engineers encountered great diffi- culties here, and the traveller will observe that lofty embankments, cuttings, and bridges are very numerous. A few churches, with their detached belfries (klockstapel), are seen at intervals, and the monotony of the landscape is farther relieved by groups of red, timber-built cottages, roofed with green turf, and patches of pasture. Manufactories, too, are occasionally passed, and wherever water-power is available it is utilised by mills. The next stations are Sandsjd, Sa'fsjo', Stocka'ryd, and Lamhult, to the right of which, 400 ft. above the railway, rises the Gro'ns- kulle. 424 Kil. Moheda. 436 Kil. (269 Engl. M.) Alfvesta (Wiman’s Hotel,- *Rail. Re- staurant, with a few beds), prettily situated on Lake Salon, is the junction of a branch-line to Vexio, Karlskrona, and Kalmar (see R. 43). Near Alfvesta is the ancient church of Aringsds, with a belfry and interesting Runic stones. 450 Kil. (279 M.) Vislanda, the scene of the old Blenda Saga, lies on the Brc°walla Heath. Fnon VISLANDA 'ro BOLMEN, 51 Kil. (311/2 Engl. M.), railway in 31/4 hrs. The intermediate stations are Matiaskog, Ryssby, Tutaryd, Ljungby, and Angelstad. Bolmen lies on the lake of that name, a sheet oof water 28 Engl. M. long and 6 M. broad, from which the river Lagaa (p. 284} issues. The long island of Bolmsjo', once the seat of the governor of Smfiland, contains several interesting tombstones. _ FROM VISLANDA TO KARLSHAMN, 78 Kil. (481/2 Engl. M.), railway 1n 4% hrs. (fares 5 kr. 50, 3 kr. 55 6.). The train traverses a hilly and Wooded tract, and soon reaches ILake Asnen (452 ft.), a large sheet of water, the bays of which it repeatedly crosses. Beyond Ulfo‘ it crosses to an island in the lake and then recrosses to the mainland, where the country becomes more level. Beyond Ryd we enter the valley of the Mb'rrums&. The scenery improves as the sea is approached, and is very pleasing at Asarum, the station before Karlshamn. 98 Kil. (481/2 M.) Karlshamn (Stadshuset, in the Kungsgata; Gibraltar, 0n the quay), at the mouth of the Mied, with 6000 inhab., erected into a town and re-named in 1668. The Klockstapel, or belfry, a stone tower adjoining the church was erected at the end of the 18th cent., and 18 sometimes called Karlshamns Fafa'nga (‘Karishamn’s vanity’), as on com- pletion it was found unequal to bearing the weight of the bells. ~ The surrounding country is one of the prettiest districts in Sweden. To the 380 Route 52. HESSLEHOLM. From Stockholm N.W. lies the Brulms-Park, with the *Bellevue Hotel. —-- A very pleasant excursion may be taken to the Asarumsdal and the Oflerkr'illa (‘sacrificial spring’), and to Stro'mma and Rosenborg, whence we may return by Tuba- ryd. — About 7-8 Kil. to the N. E. of the town is an artificial hill com- posed of huge stones, called the Valhall, probably an Atteslupa, or place from which old and infirm persons used to throw themselves in ancient times in order to avoid the supposed ignominy of dying in their beds. Between (468 Kil.) Liatorp, the next station, and (484 Kil.) Elmhult, the last station in Smiland, lies Rdshult, the birthplace of Linus’ (13th May, 1707), whose father was the pastor here at that time, but soon afterwards removed to the neighbouring parish of Stenbrohult. The train afl'ords a view, to the left, of Rashult, with the obelisk erected in 1866 to the great naturalist’s memory. 493 Kil. (306 Killeberg is the first station in Skins, and the train now gradually descends into a more smiling region. Beyond Ousby, Ha'stveda, and Balingsliif, we reach -— 535 Kil. (332 Hessleholm (Jernvt'igs-Hotellet), an increas- ing place, at the junction of the main line with branches to Christianstad and Soloesborg to the E. (see below) and Helsingborg to the W. (see p. 383). FROM HESSLEHOLM 'ro CHRISTIANSTAD, 30 Kil. (181/2 Engl. M.), railway in 1-11/2 hr. (fares 2 kr. 10, 1 kr. 5 6.). This railway traverses a well- cultivated district and passes a number of unimportant stations. Beyond Karpalund, where a. branch-line diverges to (35 Kil.) Degeberga, it crosses the Helger‘i and reaches — 3O Kil. Christianstad (Sladshusel; Hotel Werlin, Stortorget, the‘Skjuts’ station), the capital of Norra Ski’tne, founded in 1614, with 9000 inhab., and the seat of .the governor and the district courts, which are estab- lished in the Kronhus. The town is pleasantly situated on a peninsula in the Sjo'm'k, a lake formed by the Helgec‘l. The principal edifice is the Church, e ected in 1617. At the mouth of the Helger't, on the island of Alto‘, lies has, the seaport of Kristianstad. The RAILWAY FROM CHRISTIANSTAD T0 SiiLvEssoRG (31 Kil. in 11/2 hr.:, fares 2 kr. 30, 1 kr. 45 6.) is a narrow-gauge line (3% ft.), traversing a somewhat uninteresting district. About 31/2 Engl. M. to the N. of Hell'- inge lies the Opmannasjo' with the pleasant estate of Karlsholm on, its W. bank. 13 Kil. Beckaskog, the next station, derives its name from the old chateau of Beckaskog, beautifully situated 2 Engl. M. to the N., on a narrow tongue of land between the Opmannasjo and the Ifo'sjo'. It was originally a Bernardine monastery and now belongs to the crown. Charles XV. frequently visited this spot, and has composed verses in its praise. On the Ifo', an island in the lake, are the Ugnsmunnar (‘oven- holes’), curious orifices in the belemnite limestone. On the E. side of the island is the Hofgccird, a farm-house built over a kind of crypt (now used as a cellar), in which Bishop Lunneson, an incurable leper, is said to have spent several years. The island once belonged to Marshal Toll (‘Excellensen Toll‘), who when governor-general resided here in 1782-1817. —— To the S. of the Beckaskog station are the large estate and mansion of Trolle-Ljungby, which has successively belonged to several noble fami- lies of historical note. — The train stops at two unimportant stations, beyond which the scenery improves, and lastly (31 Kilpfrom Christian- stad) at- 61 Kil. or 38 M. (from Hessleholm) Soloesborg, a small town, with several large distilleries and the ruins of an old castle. Near (550 Kil.) Sb'sdala is the church of Mdllby, where the composer Otto Lindbled was once sacristan. Then Tjomarp and Hdr, to the N. of which last risesv the basaltic hill of Anneklef. to Malmii. LUND.- 52. Route. 381 The country now begins to be enlivened with pleasant groves of beeches. From Hor a drive may be taken to Bosjokloster on the Ringsjo (see below), whence the traveller may return to the railway at Stehag. Beyond Hor we obtain a pleasing view of the Ringsjd to the left, a visit to which may be paid from (574 Kil.) Stehag. From Stehag a pleasant drive may be taken to the N.W. to (16 Kil.) RosTKNGA, near which is the small but picturesque, crater-like 0densj6. Farther N., at the foot of the So'derds, lies Allarp, to the W. of which, near Rc'tro'd, is the wooded ravine of Skdralz'd, 5 Kil. in length. Another interesting excursion may be taken from Stehag to the wood— girt RmGsJo to the S.E., by driving to (10 Kil.) V'I'angelsborg, where the lake should be crossed to the Bosjdlcloster, once a monastery and a famous resort of pilgrims, and now the property of Count Beckfries. An oak here, 40 ft. in circumference, is said to be the oldest tree in Sweden. The peninsula on which the mansion of Bosjokloster stands is visible from the train between Her and Stehag. At the E. end of the lake are the estates of Fulltofta and Ousbyholm. From Bosjokloster to Her about 13 Kil. by the road (see above). 584 Kil. (362 Engl. M Eslfif (Jernvc'igs—Hotellet; Nilson’s), a town with 3000 inhab., is the junction of a branch-line to the S.E. to Ystad (p. 391), and of another to the W. to Landskrona (p. 392). Pleasing scenery, with numerous parks and country-seats. —— Be- yond Ortofta, the train stops at — 601 Kil. (372 M.) Lund (*Stadshuset, Stortorg; Skandz'navien; Jernvd'gs-Hotellet; Krakau; booksellers, Glee'rup, Lindstett, Stor- torg), a town with 14,000 inhab., and a place of very ancient origin , which according to popular tradition was already a flour- ishing place at the beginning of the Christian era. In the early annals of Sweden it is said to have been a wealthy and for- tified town in the 10th cent., and in 1048 the first bishop was appointed. In 1104 the bishopric was erected into an archiepis- copal see, and the archbishop became the primate of the whole of Scandinavia. Shortly afterwards Lund was even styled the ‘capital of Denmark’, and was frequently the residence of the kings. After many vicissitudes the prosperity of the place gradually declined, and the last archbishop was banished and popery abolished by Christian III. in 1536. In its palmy days Lund is said to have had a population of ‘200,000 souls , and there were 21 churches, besides several monasteries, but after the expulsion of the arch- bishop the town lost all its importance, and for upwards of a century was a mere village. Its modern prosperity dates from the foundation of the university by Charles XI. in 1668, but to this day it presents a somewhat dull and rustic appearance, especially during the university vacations. (Plan, see p. 389,) The Lundagc'trd, with the neighbouring Lilla Torg and Tegne'rs- Plats, are the chief centres of attraction. The beautiful trees here form a pleasant feature of the place. In the centre of the town rises the *CATHEDRAL (Pl. B, 3), dedi- cated to St. Lawrence, which on the whole is perhaps the finest church in Scandinavia. It was founded. about the middle of the 11th 382 Route 52. LUND. From Stockholm cent. and consecrated by Archbishop Eskil (p.349) in 1145. It is a pure Romanesque edifice (judiciously restored by Brunius, who was succeeded in 1868 by Zettervall), with five towers and a semi- circular apse, resembling the famous Rhenish churches of Laach, Andernach, Ooblenz, and Boppard. Although 263 ft. only in length (118 ft. wide, 70 ft. high), it presents a handsome ap— pearance owing to the breadth of the W. end, and to the fact that the pavement rises in the middle 1% ft. above its level at the sides of the church (as in the Pantheon at Rome). Nine pillars on each side separate the nave from the aisles. Seventeen steps ascend from the nave to the massive transept, two more to the choir, and lastly three to the high altar. Under the transept and choir lies the spacious and imposing ** ORYPT (Kraftskyrhan), 122 ft. long, 35 ft. wide , and 14 ft. high, one of the largest in the world. The vaulting is borne by 24 pillars, and there are ten small windows in the sides. In the N. arm of the crypt is a large Well, embellished with satirical figures by ‘Van Duren, a Dutch master. Archbishop Birger (d. 1519) is buried here. On one of the pillars are the figures of the giant Finn and his wife, the traditional builders of the church. They were hired by St. Law- rence to construct the building, and they stipulated either for the sun and the moon, or for the saint’s own eyes as their reward, unless the holy man should succeed in guessing the giant’s name. Luckily the saint overheard the giantess pronounce her husband’s name while she was lulling her child to sleep, and thus saved his eyes. The enraged giant and his wife thereupon attempted to pull the church down again, but the saint converted them into stone , and their figures still testify to the truth of the story. ~— In the upper church the visitor should observe the handsome altar and pulpit, and the venerable seven-branched *Candelabrum. — The Klockare, who shows the church, lives close by. The Old University Buildings (Pl. B, 2; Curia Lundensis), in the *Lundagard, the seat of the university founded by Charles XI. in 1668, contain the valuable Library and the Historical Museum, comprising the archaeological collections of Prof. Nilsson. The university is now attended by about 500 students. The Tower com- mands a fine view. .With the university is also connected the Zoo- logical Museum (Pl. B, 2, 3), where almost all the Scandinavian vertebrate animals are represented, and the Botanic Garden ('Pl. C, 2, , to the N. of the Lilla Torg, adjoining which is the Pa- radislycka with the Hospital of the province (Liinslasarett). Adjacent ‘to the cathedral is the Tegnérs-Plats, embellished with a Statue of Esaias Tegne'r by Qvarnstr6m. Here also is situated the building of the Akademiska Fiirening (Pl. 1; B, 2), of which all the students are members, containing a reading-room called the ‘Athenaeum’, a ‘ball-room, and a restaurant. -- Tegnér’s ,House, at the corner of the Gribriidergata and Klostergata, is to Malmii. TRELLEBORG. 52. Route. 383 indicated by a slab of stone with the inscription, ‘Heir bodde Esaias Tegnér 1813-26’. It was here that the poet composed his Frithjof, Gerda, and other poems. His study, with a large table in the middle, is preserved in the same condition as during his lifetime, and various memorials of him are shown. On 13th Nov., the an- niversary of the poet’s birth, the students assemble round his statue, and celebrate the day with processions, songs, and speeches. The traveller may walk through the promenades on the S. side of the town, and ascend to the chapel in the Cemetery (Pl. 0, 2, 3) on the E. side. This point commands a good survey of the fertile province of Skane, with the Romeleklint in the background. To the S.E. of the town is the Rdby Rc'iddnings Institut (Pl. C, 4), a charitable establishment founded by Gyllenkrook. Farther to the N. rises the Helgonabakke (‘saints’ hill’; Pl. 0, 1), whence we ob- tain a view, to the W. (finest at sunset), of the Sound, Malmii, and the towers of Copenhagen. Exounsrons. To Dalby, 11 Kil. to the S.E. , with a handsome old church, containing a crypt with a well. To the Romeleklz'nl ‘(near Bjorn-s- lorp), 8 Kil. farther, commanding an uninterrupted view of the whole province of Skfine. FROM LUND 'ro TRELLEBORG, 43 Kil. (27 Eng] M.), railway in 22% hrs. (fares 3 kr. 40, 1 kr. 70 6.). The district traversed is fertile but usninter- esting to the tourist. Unimportant stations. At Svedala the line in- tersects the Malmii and Ystad railway (p. 391). Trelleborg (Schwet'tz‘s Hotel) is a small sea-port and manufacturing town with 2000 inhabitants. The train now traverses a very fertile district to the S. of Lund. Near (611 Kil.) Alca'rp is the Agricultural Academy of Alnarp. The train crosses the navigable Hojed, passes Arliif, and crosses the Segee'z, beyond which it skirts the Sound for a short distance, and soon reaches —— 618 Kil. (383 Kalmo, see p. 388. FROM HESSLEHOLM TO HELSINBORG. 77 Ki]. (48 Engl. M.). RAILWAY in 21/2-3l/2 hrs. (fares 6 kr. 20, 4 kr. 65, 3 kr. 10 6.; by the slower trains 5 kr. 40, 4 kr. 5, 2 kr. 70 5.). Like most of the other branches of the great Swedish trunk- line, this railway traverses a wooded district the greater part of the way to Helsingborg. Near (42 Kil.) Klippan is a large paper- manufactory. A little to the N.W. are the large estates of Bjers- yard and Tomarp, and to the S.E. is the ancient and picturesque Herrevadskloster, formerly a Cistercian monastery, now crown- property, and used as barracks. At (47 Kil.) ‘Qvidinge the crown- prince ‘Charles Augustus died suddenly on 28th May, 1810, to the great ‘disappointment and dismay of the whole nation as well as that'of his ‘father. A monument has ‘been erected to his memory near the station. The train now traveroses extensive --coal-measures, recently discovered. From (54 Kil.) Astorp a branch-line diverges to the S. to Landskrona (p. 392), and another to the N. to Engelholm (p. 392). From Bjuf a short branch-line diverges to 384 Route 52. HELSINGBORG. the SW. to Billesholm, the centre of a coal—mining region. From (74 Kil.) Ramldsa, near which are the favourite baths of that name (see below), a line runs to the E. to Esldf on the main line. 77 Kil. (48 Helsingborg (*Hdtel cl’Angleterre; *Mollb‘erg, R. 11/2 kr., A. 25, L. 65 6.; Munthe; Oresund), a town with 11,500 inhab. , is beautifully situated on the Orestmd or Sound, which is here only about 3Engl. M. wide. (Steamboat to Helsingor several times daily in 20 min. ; others to Copenhagen, etc.) It is one of the oldest towns in Skiine, having formerly stood near the Klirnan tower, whence it was removed after a great fire to its present site in 1425. After many vicissitudes, the town came into the possession of Sweden by the peace of 1658, but was again occupied by the Danes in 1676 and 1677. In 1710 the Danes were finally defeated in the neighbourhood by Mans Stenbock and his ‘gedepoger’ (‘he-goats’, so called from the furs worn by the Swe- dish peasants), a victory commemorated by a monument near the windmill of Ringstorp. A monument on the quay commemorates the landing of Bernadotte (Charles XIV. John) on 20th Oct., 1810. The harbour is good for moderate-sized vessels, and there are several handsome modern buildings, but almost all traces of antiquity have disappeared. The Railway Station, which is surrounded with pleasure—grounds, lies at the S. end of the town, near the harbour. The finest point near Helsingborg, and 120 ft. above it, is the tower of *Ka'rnan (perhaps signifying ‘churn’, from its shape; or ‘kernel’, having formed the keep of a larger stronghold). It rises in five stories to a height of 101 ft., and each side is 51 ft. broad, with walls 15 ft. thick. It resembles the towers of Visby, and once belonged to a large castle of which it is now the only relic. The *Vrnw hence is the finest on the Sound, particularly towards sunset. A hundred or more vessels may be counted at one time. Opposite the spectator lies Helsingdr, with the Kronborg (immor— talised by Shakspeare under the English form of Elsinore), and Marielyst; to the S. is the island of Hoen (see p. 392), and to the N. rises the granite promontory of Kullen. A pleasant walk may be taken to the mineral spring of Helsan to the N.E. of the town, and to the Sea-baths (with Russian and Turkish baths) to the N. ——- Among the pretty villas and estates in the environs are Hamilton House, containing valuable collec- tions, and Sofiero ‘Sophia’s rest’), the property of Queen Sophia, to the N. ; farther distant are Kulla Gunnarstorp and Christinelund. To the S. of the town are the villa of Count Essen, the picturesque Cemetery, and the Villa Canzonetta, belonging to Orvar Odd, the poet. On the Hessleholm railway, to the SE. , is the Ramldsa Helsobrunn, a favourite mineral spring and watering—place. A visit to the villas to the N. of the town, particularly to (6 Kil.) Sofiero (see above), may conveniently be combined with an excursion to '(26 Kil.) Hogands and (39 Kil.) Kullens Fy'r. This interesting expedition will occupy a whole day. The hotels let carriages at high charges, but VEXIC. 53. Route. 385 ‘skjuts’ horses may be hired for the excursion at more reasonable rates. As far as Hogands (Zimmerdahl‘s Inn) an omnibus and a steamboat also usually run from Helsingborg. At Hoganas, where ‘skjuts’ horses may also be obtained for the drive to Kullen and to Helsingborg, there are coal-mines and a famous manu- factory of pottery. From Hoganas by Krapperup and the fishing village of Mo'lle to Kullen about 14 Kil. more. The Promontory of Kullen, once probably an island, projects boldly into the Kattegat. On the E side of it is the Skelder Wk, and farther distant rises the Hallands 11s, a hill upwards of 600 ft. high, at the extremity of which lie the little town of Torekov and Hallands Viidero'. At the base of the promontory of Kullen, near the lighthouse, is the Silfpackarhfil, a deserted silver-mine. The point of view most easily reached is the Barekulle, a height near Kochen- has, just beyond Krapperup; farther N. rises the highest point of the promontory (615 ft.), commanding a still more extensive view, but less easily ascended. Inns at Molle and the Kullagdrd, to the E. of the lighthouse. Landskrona (p. 392) may be reached by railway (four trains daily) from Helsingborg in 13/4-‘2 hrs. , and Eslof in 11/2-‘2 hrs. more. 53. From Alfvesta to Karlskrona and Kalmar. From Alfvesta to Vexio‘, 18 Kil. (11 Engl. M.), in 3/4 hr. (fares 1 kr. 30 6., 75 6.); from Vexio to Karlskrona, 114 Kil. (71M), in 5-5l/2 hrs. (8 kr. 55. 4 kr. 30 6). -— From Alfvesta to Emmaboda, 57 Kil. (35 M.), in 21/2 hrs., from Emmaboda to Kalmar, 57 Kil. (35 M.), in 23/4 hrs. (4 kr. 30, 2 kr. 15 6.). Alfvesta, see p. 379. This branch-railway traverses a wooded district at first, enlivened here and there with the cottage of a settler (backstugusittare), with its little patch of pasture (tofta, gra'sgdng), enclosed by the peculiar fences (gc‘irdesgdrd; with pieces of wood placed obliquely between the upright stakes) common in Norway and Sweden and sometimes seen among the Alps. These independent settlers are distinct from the torpa're (from torpa, ‘cottage’), a cottager or hired labourer on an estate. — At (8 Kil.) Gemla several manufactories. 13 Kil. Rdppe, on the Helgasjo, at the point whence it drains into the Bergqcarasjii. To the S. of the station, close to the latter lake, is the estate of Bergqvara, with a picturesque ruined castle, which may also be visited from Vexio. A small steamer starting from R'zippe plies on the Helgasjo and the Ra'ppe Canal, which connects that lake with the Toftasjii. In the vicinity is the mineral spring of Evedal. 18 Kil. (11 Vexid (Nya Hotellet; .Stadshuset), the capital of the Kronobergs-La'n, with 4000 inhab., has been rebuilt on a wide and handsome plan since a fire in 1843. The principal edi- fice is the handsome Cathedral, dating from the year 1300, restored by Brunius. It contains the tomb of St.~Siegfrid (d. about 1030), the first promulgator of Christianity in this region. The old gym- nasium contains the Smalands Museum, _a collection composed of antiquities, a library, and a cabinet of coins. It is adorned with a bust of Linné, who went from Vexio to the university of Lund. Visitors apply to the vaktmastare. Bsnnnxnn‘s Norway and Sweden. 2nd Edit. 25 386~ Route 53. KARL'SKRONA. From Alfvesta On a hill to the E. of the town, andponnected with it by an avenue, lies the episcopal residence of Ostrabo, once occupied by Tegnér the poet, who died here on 2nd Nov., 1846. He is buried in the cemetery to the W. ofthe town, by the S. wall, where his wife reposes by his side. . Pleasant excursion from Vexi6 to Eoedal and the (8 Kil.) *Kronoberg, a castle on an island in the He1gasj6. The modern chateau of Kronoberg is crown-property, and is occupied by the governor of the district. The old castle. with its ruins overgrown with beeches, is very icturesque. In the middle of the court'rises a handsome oak. —— About 1 Kil. to the S. of Vexi6 is the Inglinge Ho'g, an ancient tumulus commanding an extensive view, and once a place of assize. At the top is a stone 7ft. high, adjoining which is a smaller round stone (stenklot) with a neatly executed pattern, supposed to have once been used in connection with ancient sacrificial rites. Leaving Vexi6, the train traverses an interminable forest, frequently relieved with lakes, 'and occasionally enlivened with glass-works. , 57 Kil. Emmaboda is the junction of the Karlskrona and Kal- mar lines. The KARLSKRONA LINE follows the valley of the Lyckebyd to the S. of Emmaboda, and then that of the Bubbetorpsd. At Lyclteby, a prettily situated place, the train quits the mainland and crosses several bridges and islands to - 114 Kil. (71 Karlskrona (Storkc'illaren; Frimurarlce'illaren ,- Kung Karl), the headquarters of the Swedish navy, a considerable town, with 18,600 inhab. , situated on the Tross6 and other is- lands. It is a comparatively modern place, having been founded in 1660. The only sight of which Karlskrona can boast is the Dockyard (OrZogsvarfoet), to which, however, admission is rarely granted without permission from the minister of war. From Emmaboda the KALMAR LINE runs to the W., passing (59 Kil.) Lindl’ts and (73 Kil.) Orsjd. From (87 Kil.) Nybro a branch-line diverges to the iron-works (Jernbruk) of Siifsjb'strlim. 99 Kil. (611/2 Trekanten. The train now emerges‘ from the pine-forest and reaches a more smiling coast landscape, where birches, oaks, "and beeches make their appearance. In the distance the island of Oland is visible (p. 387). 106 Kil. Smedby. 114 Kil. (71 Kalmar (Witt’s Hotel; Stadshuset), a very ancient town with 10,740 inhab. , situated partly on the mainland and partly on two island in the Kalmarsund, and famous in early Swedish history as the scene of the conclusion of the Oalmar Union (20th July, 1397), by which an attempt was made for the first time to unite the three Scandinavian kingdoms. The old town, where this important document was signed, lay on the mainland and no longer exists. The chief object of interest is the fine old *Castle, known as the Kalmarnahus, a large quadrangular edifice, with towers, ramparts, and m‘oats. It existed as early as the year 1200, was rebuilt in 1337, enlarged after 1536, and restored and embel- to Kalmar. KALMAR. 53. Route. 387 lished by John 111. at the end of the 16th century. This venerable building has undergone many vicissitudes. After having withstood eleven sieges and been the frequent residence of kings and princes, it was converted by Gustavus III. into a distillery, and a windmill was even erected upon the highest tower. The Unions-Sal, the largest room in the castle (where, however, the famous treaty was not signed), was used by Gustavus IV. as a granary. From these indignities, however, it no longer sufl’ers, and it is now under- going restoration. Among the other rooms is Gamla Kongsgcmaket (‘old kings’ apartment’), which was once occupied by the ill- starred Eric XIV. The inlaid panelling in the deep-set windows of this apartment has lately been restored and is very flne. —— The *Catheclral , designed by Tessin, was built in stone from the quarries of Oland in 1660-99. To the N. of the town is (3 Kil.) Ska'lby, with a fine park. At Stensii, to the S.W., is an iron monument marking the spot where Gustavus Vasa landed in May , 1520, on his return from Liibeck. A Latin inscription here is by Louis XVIIL, who visited Sweden in 1804 during his exile. Farther to the S. are the curious round churches of Hagby and Voxtorp (resembling that of Solna near Stockholm, p. 341), and still farther (20 Kil.) the famous Briimsebro, or bridge over the Brb'mseba'ck, which once formed the boundary between Swedish and Danish territory. On a small island in the stream are the Brc'imse- stenar, which are said once to have marked the frontier. By the Peace of Bromsebro in 1645 Sweden recovered her independence and the natural coast-frontier formed by the Baltic, the Sound, and the Kattegat. From Kalmar we may cross to the Island of 0land. which,’ though rarely visited by tourists, presents some features of geological interest. It is 140 Kil. (85 Engl. M.) long and 3-15 Kil. (2-9 M.) in breadth. . Owing to its considerable size (about 533 Engl. sq. M.), it is dignified, like Got- land, with the termination ‘Land’. The old name was Wulfstans Eya- land. It contains 38,000 inhab., whose pursuits are chiefly agricultural, and it once boasted of a famous breed of horses, now nearly extinct. The dwelling-houses (manbygnader) are usually constructed of wood, and the farm-buildings (ulhus) of stone. The roofs are adorned with snakes’ and horses’ heads carved in wood. The fields are separated by massive stone walls. Among the other resources of the island are large quarries of limestone and a quarry of alum-slate near Mbckleby. _ Oland does not resent the usual Swedish geological features of granite and gneiss, covereg with lakes and forests, but like Gotland consists mainly of a limestone plateau of the Silurian formation, and 1s wooded in a few places only. The plateau, originally formed under the sea, rises abruptly from the water in the southern half of the island, but slopes gently down to the sandy E. coast. Between the cliffs (landlborgar) and the sea extends a plain covered for the most part by arable land and woods. In the centre of the island rises a bleak and and tract of reddish limestone soil, called the Allvar, scored here and there with deep furrows, and somewhat resembling the deserts of Africa. The scanty vegetation here consists of a hard kind of grass (festuca), on which the sheep graze, while the rich plains, with their groves of oaks, limes, and birches, are enlivened with the song of the nightingale (lcledra). The villages with 25* 388 ‘Route. 53. OSKARSHAMN. their interesting churches (among which those of Albo‘ke and Norm: Motet deserve mention) are generally situated either in the plain or between it and the ‘landtborgar‘, while the latter are crowned with windmills, twenty of which may sometimes be counted in a row. In the northern half of the island there are no ‘landtborgar’, but the coast is covered with sandy downs, particularly at Grankulla in the parish of Bb'da. A large round ‘stone at Folkslunda, called the Runstenskyrka, marks the centre of the island. Geologists should notice the numerous rock-formations resembling ships, with prow, stern, masts, and benches for rowers. The finest of these Skeppsformer is ‘Noah‘s Ark’ at ‘Ho'gsa'um, near Stora Ro'r. Other curious formations, resembling ruined castles, are called Borgruiner, the finest of which are the Ismanstorp and the Vipetorp, also near Stora Ror. Countless tumuli form a‘nother object of interest. The capital of the island‘ is Borgholm (Inn), a small town with 900 inhab., whence steamers ply daily to Kalmar. It owes its sole interest to its imposing ruined Castle, mentioned in history for the ‘first time in 1280, after which it underwent repeated sieges. About 20 Eng]. M. to the S. of Borgholm lies Fz'irjestad, directly opposite Kalmar, to which a steamer plies frequently. The width of the strait here is'about 4 Engl M.. - Near Mb'ckleby, at the S. end of the island, considerable quantities of alum are found. _. __ The classical authority regarding Oland is Linné’s ‘Olandska och Gothlandska Resa’ (1741; Stockholm, 1745). Mam'yat’s ‘One Year in Sw den’ (London, 1862) is‘ also an interesting work. FROM OSKARSHAMN T0 NJissJii. Travellers who do not wish to return from Kalmar to Vexid and Alfvesta may proceed by steamer to Oskarshamn (5 hrs., 2-3 times weekly), whence a railway runs to Nassjo. Oskarshamn (Societetshuset ,- N'ya Hotellet), a town with 5000 inhab., was formerly called Diiderhultsvik, but received its pre- sent name and its municipal privileges in 1856. Several iron.- works and manufactories, including a td'ndsticksfabrik. RAILWAY FROM OSKABSHAMN 'ro NKssJo, 150 Kil. (93 Engl. M .), in 51/2 hrs. (fares 11 kr. 20, 8 kr. 95, 5 kr. 60 6.). — The line traverses a wooded district, presenting little attraction. Several unimportant stations. ' 65 Kil. (40' Hultsfred, the junction of branch-lines to Storebro and Vimmerby (21 Kil.), two small manufacturing towns, and to Ankarsrum (with iron-works) and (70 Kil.) Vestervik (see p. 304). -— Near Marianclund are the estate and church of Hessleby 127 Kil. (79 Eksji') (N'ya Stadshuset), a town with 3000 inhab., near which is the curious Skurugata, a ravine 125 ft. deep and ‘20 ft. wide, penetrating a rocky hill for nearly 2 Engl. M. 150 Kil. (93 Engl.. Nc'pissjb', see p. 301. 54. Malmii and its Environs. Arrival. Railway Station (fiddra~ Stambana, R. 52), near the Steam- boat ‘Quay. On the latter is the Nya Tullhus (Pl. 7; B, 2), or custom—house, where the luggage of passengers arriving from Copenhagen is examined. 7 Cab from quay to station 1kr., porter'SO-bO 6. - Travellers entering Sjweden here should at once buythe latest number of ‘Sveriges Kom- munikationer‘ (10-6.). -— Steamboats‘ (‘besides the coasting vessels to Stock- Q‘ a _ m. txpswfizz Jbébm. . up;.EEsEEbSEQd .QQFCESQESJij \. .u. , . .SEksék .a < \. s s . 1 . u _. . _.._.. \3 ,\ . ._._ Mm L$§$-w .... v 6 .. has} .. . _... an. aegis 5.8 :52. W}. t. . . . . y. a 9 . . .. , .. . 15.53% \QQW/ ,, .l; 519% ENVPN d . / an. its .Eieaé. \ h- Ys ta (1. 4 .353 .|/ .NG . zasaiwfin. - sea 5 .a . i... . . is. -.......-W.i~ W e . 3.3% N l WWSQEMQX. .N .fsgaE EEEEEH ll 71/ ., . . a, may/M . . 7 115/47 . /. w////,M J/x If/WZ/ . . . , . , w/L , ///// , . Man/.1. I h/fi/w .mfl .tkbrw EQWEBEJ ‘\ 9 e31 w. Ruivwéeuv //,/ . r . ./ // é/t . n.1,. .W/fi \nmawet: 0] m r. ...|.-.i|..-l-.. % /////¢/ . . ._ . _ rthi , V, I 1 gszaésfith . V . . //v . \ //.P.. e .. 9. “>5 _ / .ewis :eenibk \ . A z 92 a; H .tu....4..it IaiUHHJ , CON QC" OOH O .956“. ; s5. ., .ocodn : . ; a _. m, . , .. as. -l @251 O ..E£::£ ' . 4 . l ‘ 11“ 1‘ I'1'.‘l I" 00 - v , r 4 . r r‘, . \\‘,\ .7‘ ,5 , ,~_ , \ 0.‘ vr' .v‘r ' I x ' " \ ‘T ‘ | . x a "s ~~ ' *"'r=‘>.\\\\\\\ ,JQ; ~~ \ v 1 l ‘ -a" . “llv-llllllll' ‘ Hoeshldr WM 391': f I‘ . ‘ ¥¢~¢J¢>7-g #7.... A. .- , ‘N. a ,- ..__~_-.- ‘I Islassstab izsouooo Wes. W .m _ -ww- .- MALMO. 54. Route. 389 holm, Gothenburg, etc.) to Copenhagen (16 Engl. M.) four times daily in 11/2-13/4 hr., to Lz‘ibeck five times weekly in 16—18 hrs. Others touch here on their way to London, Amsterdam, Bordeaux, etc. Hotels. *KRAMER‘s HOTEL, *GUs'rAF AnoLF, both in the Stortorg (Pl. B,2)-, “Sven, near the quay and the railway-station; S'rocKuoLM; DANMARK. Restaurants at the hotels. — Café Agnete Jo'nsson, Hamngatan. —- Stadt Hamburg, a favourite resort, in the Gustaf Adolf’s Torg, with open- air concerts. -— Money exchanged by Mr. T. Flensbm'g, the British vice- consul, and at Kjo'benhamns Litnebank. Booksellers: Hedbe-rg, Adelgatan; Cq'onholm, Stortorget. as”. Baths on the N. side of the harbour. Malmo, a busy and thriving seaport and industrial town, the capital of the fertile province of Sltdne, with 36,670 inhab., is situated on the Sound, opposite to Copenhagen (16 Engl. M. distant), in a flat and uninteresting district. It is now the third town in Sweden in point ofpopulation and importance, and possesses a considerable commercial neat and a number of manufactories (including several from which the well-known Swedish gloves are largely exported). . In the middle ages Malmo was the chief commercial town on the Sound, especially during the Hanseatic period. Its prosperity was mainly due to the productive herring-fishery, which attracted merchants from all parts of the Baltic. It is mentioned for the first time in 1259, but it lay at that time in the Vestcrvdng, now the suburb of Sodervarn, while the site of the modern town was then occupied by the fishing village of Svalperup. During the che- quered reign of Christian 11. of Denmark (1513-23) Malmii em- braced the cause of that monarch, the burghers being headed by their spirited burgomaster Jon-gen Koclc, who once occupied the Koclcumska Hus (see below). In the 16th and 17th cent. the pro- sperity of the town declined, partly owing to the failure of the herring-fishery, and partly to the growing importance of Copen- hagen. The peace of Roeskilde, which restored Skane to Sweden in 1658, farther accelerated the decay of the place, and at the end of the 17th cent. it contained 2000 inhab. only. At length, about a century later (1775-78), Frans Sue”, a wealthy and public- spirited merchant of Malmo, laid the foundation of the modern prosperity of his native place by constructing a harbour, which has since been repeatedly extended and deepened. The Harbour is on the N .W. side of the town, with long piers to prevent it from being choked up with sand. The Hamngata leads thence in a straight direction to the MALMéHUS (Pl. A, 2, 3), a fortress at the S.W. end of the town. In its present form it dates from 1537, and is architecturally interesting. It is now used as a house of correction. Bothwell, Queen Mary Stuart’s third hus- band, was imprisoned here in 1573-78, but the vaulted dungeon in which he was confined is now walled up. He died on 14th April, 1578, in the chateau of Dragsholm in Zealand, and was interred in the church of Faarveille. Adjoining the fortress is the Oeltfd'ngelse (Pl. A, 3), or prison. 390 Route 54. MALMO. The Petrikyrka (Pl. 5; B, 2), near the Stortorg, founded in 1319, and tastefully restored by Brunius in 1847-53, is the finest Gothic church in S. Sweden. It contains a curious poor-box (fattig- biissa), mounted in iron , with four slits for the ofl'erings for the church, hospital, widows, and orphans. The Tyslca Kyrka (Pl. 6; C, 2) contains an interesting life-size portrait of Luther, with a swan and the hexameter: ‘Pestis cram vivens, moriens ero mors tua, papa’. -— The Roman Catholic Church (Pl. 4; B, 3) is a handsome new edifice in the Gustaf Adolf’s Torg, to the S. of the Stortorg. The *RXnHUs (Pl. 8; B, 2), or town-hall, in the spacious-Stor- torg, is a handsome Renaissance edifice, resembling those in several of the Danish and Hanseatic towns. The facades are in brick, and the copings and five figures in niches on the root‘ in sandstone. Handsome oriel window in the centre. The inscription records the dates of the foundation, extension, and restoration of the building. The handsome Knutssal in the interior was once the council-cham- ber of the powerful Knutsgz'lle (‘Guild of Canute’). --- In the Stor- torg is also situated the residence of the Landsho'fding, or governor of the province, which contains the room (shown to visitors) where Charles XV., the popular predecessor of Oscar 11., died on 18th Sept., 1872, when on his way back from Aix-la-Chapelle to Stock- holm. The most interesting relic of mediteval domestic architec- ture is the Kockumslca Hus, in the Frans Suellsgata, erected in the 15th cent., and once occupied by Kock , the warlike burgomaster, and Snell, the enterprising merchant and benefactor of the town. Pleasant walks on the S. and E. sides of the town, the most attractive of which is Planteri'ngen near the Malmohus. To the S.W. of the town lies the shady Cemetery (Pl. B, 3). About 30 Kil. (181/2 Engl. M.) to the S. of Malmo lie the two ancient little towns of Falsterbo (800 inhab.) and Skanor (400 inhab.), situated 2 Engl. M. apart on a long sandy promontory. They possess one inn, a pastor, and a burgomaster in common, but each has its own school. The inhabitants earn a scanty subsistence by fishing andtilling the poor sandy soil, but many of them go to sea and are considered the best sailors in this part of Sweden. It is a curious fact that these primitive little towns possess neither doctor, druggist, nor tavern, and crime and sickness are said to be alike almost unknown. Many centuries ago the herring-fishery in this neighbourhood was very profitable, and the ‘Fair of Skanor’, which was held at the ‘Falsterboda’ attracted merchants from all parts of N. Europe between July and November. At that period Skanor was a far-more im- portant place than Malmo. Popular tradition ascribes an almost fabulous antiquity to the place: —— ‘Nar Kristus lat sig foda Stod Lund och Skanor i groda’. (When Christ was born, Lund and Skanor were flourishing.) With the falling oil‘ of the herring-fishery, the prosperity of these towns declined. an in 1631 a storm choked their harbour (‘Flommen‘) and half buried the houses with sand. The Church of Falsterbo, now deeply imbedded in sand, is said to .be the most ancient in Skane, and is still visited by pilgrims, parti- cularly on St. John's Day. The Castle Hill commands a view of the lighthouse (Falsterbo Eur), the light-ship on the dangerous Falsterbo Rtjfl' YSTAD. 54-. Route. 391 (‘reef’), the island of Mz‘ikldppen with its countless gulls, and farther distant the chalk-island of Mo'en. The Church of Skanb'r, another venerable edifice, has a crypt under the choir like the churches of Lund and Dalby (pp. 382, 383). The fine old font is embellished with the figures of twenty kings. The Castle Hill here commands an extensive view, extending in clear weather across the Sound as far as Stevens Klint, a cliff on the Danish coast. RAILWAY FROM MALMd 'ro Ys'ran, 63 Kil. (40 Engl. M.), in 3 hrs. (fares 41/2, 21/4 kr.). -— The train traverses the fertile pro- vince of Skfine, where extensive corn-fields and beautiful groves of beeches contrast pleasantly with the dreary regions farther to the N., while white churches and country-seats of the Swedish noblesse are seen at frequent intervals. About 5) Kil. to the N. of (16 Kil.) Skabersjo is the beautiful mansion of Torup, which forms an interesting object for an afternoon’s drive from Malmo. At (21 Kil.) Soedala the line is crossed by the branch-line from Lund to Trelleborg (p. 383). Near (28 Kil.) Borringe is the chateau of that name, formerly a nunnery. In the neighbourhood of (38 Kil.) Sk'urup is S'vaneholm on an island in the Svanesjd, once the pro- perty of Rodger Maclean, a distinguished farmer and promoter of national education. The following stations are named after the extensive estates and mansions near them. 63 Kil. (40 Engl. M.) Ystad (Hotel du Sud,- Hotel du Nord), a busy seaport with 7000 inhab., mentioned in history as early as the 13th century. To a Franciscan monastery, founded here in 1267, once belonged the Petri Kyrka, which is now modernised. The Vdrfm-Kyrka also dates from the 13th century. Down to 1658 the town belonged to Denmark. Besides the coasting steamers from Stockholm to Malmii, Copenhagen, and Gothenburg, another plying between Stettin and Bergen touches here fortnightly, and there are several small local steamboats. One of the small steamers plies twice weekly between Ystad and the island of Bornholm, which belongs to Denmark, and lies about 5 sea- miles to the S.E. of the Swedish mainland (3 hrs. from Ystad). It is about 230 Engl. sq. M. in area, and contains upwards of 30,000 inhab., whose chief resources are agriculture and the digging of the porcelain- clay used in the famous manufactories of Copenhagen. Ro'nne, the capi- tal, lies on the W. coast. The island is rocky and mountainous. The hill called Kndgten and the Echodal in the interior are worthy of a visit. Between Svaneke and Allinge on the N. coast are a number of pictur- esque and imposing cliffs, including Randklo'veskaaret, Hella'gdomsklipperne, Gaaserenden, and Vaade Ovn. The northernmost promontory is called Hammer-en. RAILWAY FROM YSTAD 'ro EsLor, 76 Kil. (47 Engl. M.), in 3-31/2 hrs. (fares 5 kr. 40, 2 kr. 70 The line intersects a number of the extensive estates of Skane. From (11 Kil.) Scena- gorp a diligence runs daily to Simbrishamn (at 12.30 p.m.) in hrs. 1 Simbrishamn (Hotel Simbrt'shamn; Svea; Sanm'ngen'), a small seaport with 1700 inhab., mentioned in history as early as the 14th cent., lies on 392 Route 54. LANDSKRONA. the coast of the Baltic, 22 Engl. M. to the N.E. of Svenstorp. A little to the S.W. of the town is the Glimm'ingehus , an ancient baronial fortified cha- teau, one of the few of the kind now existing, and one of the most in- teresting buildings in Sweden. A little to the N. of Simbrishamn is the fishing village of Kr'vilc, where there is a curious old monument, pronounced by Prof. Nilson to be Phoenician. To the N. of (32 Kil.) Liifvestad is the fine mansion of Christine- hof, near which is the oldest alum-slate uarry in Sweden. To the S. of (47 Kil.) Bjersjiilagdrd is foeds-Kloster, a pictur- esque and handsome chateau on the Vombsjii, belonging to one of the largest estates in Skz‘ine, and formerly a wealthy monastery. Between (65 Kil.) Hurt'va and (72 Kil. Christineberg the train passes the chateau of Slearhult, built in 15 2 and recently restored by Brunius, and containing a picture-gallery of some value. 76 Kil. (47 Esldf, see p. 381. FROM EsL6F 'ro LANDSKRONA , 32 Kil. (20 Engl. M.), railway in 11/4-2 hrs. (fares 2 kr. 25, 1 kr. 15 6.) —— The train traverses a tame arable district, with several unimportant stations. From (10 Kil.) Marieholm a visit may be paid to the Riisti'inga, Lake Odin, and Skaralid (comp. p. 381). 21 Kil. Billeberga is the junc- tion for Helsingborg (p. 384). 32 Kil. (20 Landskrona (Drufvan; Griina Lund), a town with 9000 inhab., and possessing an excellent harbour 22—36 ft. deep, was founded by Eric XIII. in 1413. The Castle, which was completed in 1546, is now used as a prison and a storehouse. To the N. of the town is Hoilan, a favourite resort. -— Steamboat to Copenhagen once or twice daily. FROM LANDSKRONA '1‘0 ENGELHOLM, 48 Kil. (30 Engl. M.), railway in 2% hrs. (fares 3 kr. 20 6., 2 kr.). The intermediate stations are unim- portant. Beyond (9 Kil.) Vadensjo' the line crosses the Helsingborg and Billeberga railway (p. 385). Near (26 Kil.) Billesholm are extensive coal- mines. 35 Kil. Astorp is the junction of the Hessleholm-Helsingborg line (see p. 383). — 48 Kil. (30 M.) Engelholm (see p. 284). From Landskrona a visit may be paid to the Swedish island of Even, about 5 Engl. M. distant, with the church of St. Ibs (a corruption of Jacobus), where the famous Danish astronomer Tycho Brahe once pos- sessed a chateau called Uram'enborg and his subterranean observatory pf Stelleborg. Of these, however, there is now no trace. -- Sailing-boat -5 kr. INDEX. The Swedish vowel d and the Norwegian w, as well as the Swedish 6°; must be looked for after the letter a, the Swedish 0' and the Norwegian a after the letter 0. Aaberge 109. 177. Aabergedal 177. Aabergsbygd 89. Aabergselv 89. Aaboelv 64. Aabogen 272. Aabrekke, Glacier of 191. Aadal, Store 140. —-, Vesle 140. 136. Aasdfialen (Lake Spirillen) Aadalsbrug 206. Aadalselv 18. 85. 179. Aadland 56. Aadlandsfjord 56. Aaen . Aafjeldfos 184. Aafjord 112. 165. Aafos . Aagottind 199. Aahjem 166. 168. Aak, Gaard 125. Aaken 95. Aakernassfjeld 184. Aaklangen 33. Aakre 41. —., Sseter 127. Aakrefijord 49. 54. Aakrekampen 127. Aal 82. Aaland 49. Aalbu 204. Aalen 209. Aalesund 169. Aalesundsaxel 169. Aalfotfjord 166. Aalhus 179. Aalhusbygd 179. Aalvik 57. Aalrekstadvand 75. Aam, Gaard 172. Aamdal 172. Aamdalselv 172. Aamlid 35 Aaliggt (Bredheimsvand) -— (on the . Drammens- v . —- (OttadaI) 162. -— (.G'sterdalen) 207. Aamotsdal 27. Aamotselv 203. Aaning 188. Aanstad 161. 121. 123. Aarbotstind 245. Aalrgdoal (Bredheimsvand) —— (Jclstervand) 180. — (Sognefjord) 97. —— (near Stavanger) 48. Aardalselv 98. - Aaérdalsfjoi-Msognefjord) 7 -— (near Stavanger) 48. Aardalstange 97. Aardalsvand (Saetersdal) Aardalsvand(Sognefj 0rd) 98 Aardgla 93. 98. 139. Aare-Saeter 98 Aareholmen 251. Aareviksdal 167. Aalrshsejmsfjeld 182. 187. Aarholm 188. Aarlivold 201. 205. Aarnws 272. Aasaethorn 172. Aasbakke 231. 235. Aasdal 61. Aasen (Nordmore) 201. — (near Sandefjord) 32. -—-, Gaard (Simodal) 61.. - (Eikisdal) 198. Aasenfjeld 179. Aasenfjord 219. Aaseng 127. Aasensaeter 163. Aasafer (near Christiania) 1 Aaseral 43. .Aasgaardstrand 37. Aashammeren 199. Aasoren 119. Aasc 63. Aasta 207. Aasvaer 230. Aavatnsvand 227. Aavestrud 79. Aaxlen 78. Adelsii 344. Adolfsberg 309. A Agershus, see Akershus. Aker 206. Akerselv 3. 4. Akershougen 34. Akershus 5. Akersvik 114. 206. Akkasolsi 253. Akso-Javre 269. Alafjeld 247. Alap 247. Alatajokki St. Alban Monastery 167. Albtike 338. Albrektssund 279. Alby 366. Alden 105. Alder-en 232. Aldern, Lake 366. Alfarnaes 196. 197. Alfstad 24. Alfsvaag 243. Alfvesta 379. Algas-Varre 262. Algjel 188. Algjelfjeld 182. Alingszcis 289. Allarp 381. Allinge 391. .Allmandbjerg 204. Allvar 38 A116 380. Almare-Staket 351. Alpéndingen (Rundal) 7. Almindingen (Saltdal) 237 Almklov 168. Almklovdal 168. Almvik 304. Alnarp 383. .Alnas-Nj arg 252. 394 INDEX. Alsensjii 367. Alsike 353. Alsmo 103. Alstahoug 230. Alsten 229. Alteid (Kvenangsfjord) 252. Altenelv 253. 268. 269. Altenfjord 252. Altengaard 253. 268. Altenhus 253. . Altenvand 247. Alterhfli 124. Altesula 258. Alvastra 296. Alverstremmen 112. Alvim 274. Alvstahoug 219. Amble 105. —-, Bay of 108. Amdam 185. Anarjokk 268. Andenaes 243. Andorje 245. Andra 242. Andvord 129. 123. Aneby 302.5 Angedal 17B. 179. Angelstad 379. Angerklev 58. Angsnses 265. Angvik 201. Anjan, Lake 220. Anjehem 220. Ankarsrum 304. 388. Anneklef 380. An-Udden 296. Apald 64. Apalsaztf'eld 185. Apalste . Apelvser 227. Arboga 309. Arbo a3. 309. Arbr 366. Arendal 38. Aringsfis 379. Arltif 383. Arne 76. Arnefjord 111. Arne (Lyngenfjord) 251. Ariifier (near Kunnen) Arrebuvand 28. Arstad 233. 235. Arstadal 233. Arvidsvik 280. Arvika 306. Asarum 379. _ Asarumsdal 380. Asbjornnaase 102. sk 18 Askelihoug 19. Asker 15. Askerike Fjard 317. Askersund 297. Askimsfjord 284. Asks 85. 75. Askcfjeld 68. Aspedammen 277. Aker 345. 353. likersberg 287. 347. Akers-Canal 347. Akersstrdm 287. Akersvass 287. Aklgflgen, Lake 276. Aspen, Lilla and Store 61. Aspen, Lake 289. Aspern 277. Aspliingen, Lake 300. Atleg 165. Atna 207. Atnebro 207. Atnedal 207. Atneelv 207. Atnesjc 207. Atne-Vand 117. Auerfjord 246. Auflemsfijeld 182. 188. 189. Augedal 31. Augsburgnibba 191. Augvaldsnees 51. Auma 208. Aune (Opdal) 204. — (Surendal) 201. — (S. Throndhjem) 201. Aura 146. Aurselv 199. 200. Aurdal, Nordre 89. —, Se'ndre 86. Aurdalsfjord 89. Aure 174. 186. Aurelv 161. Aurestupene 200. Aurland (Sognefjord) 106. —- (Fjeldbygd, in the Nestbedal) 84. Aurlandsfjord 105. Aurlandsvand 106. Aurlandsvangen 106. Aursja 122. 161. Aurstaupa 200. Aursund Sje 209. Austabottinder 98. 160. Austbjerg 204. Austdal, see Q'verste Dal. Austefjord 169. 182. Austesyn 56. Avasaxa 271. 372. Avesta 365. Axenaes 56. Axevalla, heath 290. ' Axvall 290. [Eds 171. . Eases 55. ZEri 95. {)Evelsbrae 199. Aby (in Skflne) 383. 3— (near Norrkiiping) 305. Ahus 380. Akarp 383. 1 land 364, hlleberg 289. Alsatra 361. l‘tmanningen, Lake 361. Amfil 360. Amot 306. Ange 366. l ngermanelf 369. Angermanland 369. 1 nimskog 360. Ann 367. Are 367. Aresjo 367. Areskutan 220. 367. Arnas 290. Arstavik 292. Asbro 302. Asen 362. / qhammar 365. Asjij 367. Asnen, Lake 379. Astorp 383. 392. Asunden, Lake 293. 303. Atvidaberg 303. Baggensfjarden 348. Baggetorp 292. Bagnaelv 59. Bak 201. 205. Baskke (Hardangerfjord) .) - (Illaerofjord) 107. Bakke, Gaard (Ottadal) 122. Bakkeberg 148. Bakkeelv 107. Bakkefos 103. Bakken 22. Bakkenhau 247. Baklandet 16. Baksundholm 235. Bakyri 191. Balangen 243. Baldersnas 276. Balestrand 110. Balholmen 110. Balingslof 380. Balonetjeld 58. 59. Balsfjord 247. Balstad 241. Balvand 237. Bamle 22. INDEX. 395 Bandakslid 35. Bandakss 35. Bandaksvand 35. Bang 86. Bangsund 220. Bankeberg 302. Bankeryd 293. Banknaes 59. Bardlingbo 378. Bardudal 246. 247. Bardufos 247. Barkaker 31. Barkald 208. Barken, Norra and Siidra Barma 167. Barnekona 109. Barshggda 106. Barnhusvik 340. Barsnaesfjord 101. Battenfjord 200. Battenfjordsflren 200. Bseckefors 277. Baegna-Elv 18. 85. etc. Baegnadal 89. Baegna Fall 86. Bsekkelaget 273. Bserby 279. 357. Bserrastalen 24. 61. Bseverdal 146. 148. Bseverkjaern 148. Bseverkjeernhals 148. Bseverkjaernsaeter 148. 158 Bsevertunsseter 149. Bsevertunvand 148. Baevra 129. 148. Bsevradal 129. Bz‘ilsta 311. Bfingbro 309. Bfinghammar 309. Bflrekulle Bfitsta 311. Beckaskog 380. Beian 171. Beierendal 231. Beierenfjord 235. Beierens Kirke 231. 233. 235. Beisfjord 243. Beiteln 105. 106. Beito 135. Beitstad '0rd 219. 220. Bejan 21 . 226. Bejstad Ass 17. Beljek 264. Bengtsfors 276. Bennaes 191. Bensjordtind 247. Berakvamsgjel 1(15. Berangsfjord 233. Berdal 98. Berg (Giitacanal) 299. Berg (near Faleide) 187. — (near Fredrikshald) 274. Berge i Brunkeberg 27. -- (Erdal) 188. -— (Fjaerlandsfjord) 199. — (Fortundal) 150. 159. -— (Totakvand) 23. Bergedal 109. Bergeflot 64. Bergeland 48. Bergemsvand 1.81. Bergen 67. Bergenhus 71. Bergesaater 104. Bergfall 59. Berghulnaes 231. 237. Bergqvara 387. Bergqvarasjii 387. Bergsangsbackar 364. Bergsbrunna 350. Bergsdal 179. Bergsfjord 252. Bergshamra 347. Bergstad 187. Bergsund, Gaard 85. Bergvik 365. 368. Berlevaag 262. Bersbo 303. Besegg 142. 13.1. Beshfl 131. 140. 142. Beskadosfjeld 269. Bessa 142. Bessabu 24. Bessaelv 24. Bessseter 131. 128. Besstrandfjeld 131. Besstrandsaeter 128. 131. Besvand 142. Bettna 349. Billeberga 392. Billesholm 384. 392. Billingen, Sseter 163. -—, Lake 290. Billingsdal 162. Billingsfors 276. Bindalsfjord 228. Birid 1'15. Birka 344. Birkedalen 33. Birkeland 56. Biskopen 262. Biskopen , Prsesten, og Klokkeren 66 Bispberg 365. Bispevei 35. 41. Bitdalselv 23. Bitihorn 134. ‘.eeldaadal 231. gseldaanaes 231. mmMvand, Nedre and :5 cup B'vre 231. Bjerges 3'78. erkaker 204. erke 173. 182. ersgfird ersjdlagfird 392. oraafjeld 199. oreia 25. ornhul-Saeter 207. sberg 81. ellstig 84. slstad 118. 128. flrdal 172. srdgla 92. greia 60. 83. greimsvand 48. grga. 180 , Store 229. ergecren 229. grgen 210. iirkberg 364. tirkholm 371. 5rk5 344. grktind 199. srnaa 230. arnbratberg 85. orneborg 307. flrnebykset 63. {Jrnefjord 52. orneklev 124. erneraa 41. ernestegadn-Saeter104. ('irnhyttan ' 5rnlunda. 292. ern-Marknadplads 230. grngr 226 arnskred 162. srnstad 128. 6rnstorp art? 227. (irsater 303. srsaetfjeld 179. orviken 37. flstad 128. of 383. uraa 229. ur5 370. aafjeld (Nebbedal)175. Blaatlaten 95. Blaahoer 202. EglwfwllwfwfuiflwPwfq9mgfwgglwfitcPwflmEfmlwLqfwflwfwPwPwfwfw 1 cage-mews“rwgrwggewewewrwLq , Blaamanden (near Ber— gen) 68. -— (Sulitjelma) 236. Blaamandsfjeld 234. Blaaskavl 106. Blakjer 272. Blaesevoldbakken 216. Blsesterdalen 207 Bleie 63. 56. Bleifjeld 21. Blejan (Sognefjord) 105. — (Dalsfjord) 165. Bleks 37. Blidii 347.1 .Blomberg 290. 396 INDEX. Blyberg 216. Boda 306. Bodalselv 123. Bodarne 291. Bodfjeld 170. Bodlenakken 97. Bodfl 234. Boen 40. Bofos 95. Boge 373. Bogen 243. Bogge 197. 198. Bogfl 244. Bogstadvand 14. Bohus 285. Bohusléin 278. 285. Boijarviken 278. Bojumsbrae 110. Bojums-Jakel 110. Bokeniis 279. Bolgen i Bremsnaes 200. Bolhgvde 84. Bolkesjz 21. Bollnéis 366. Bolmen 379. Bolmsjii 379. Bolsaet 201. Bolsaeter Vand 180. Bolsfl 195. Bolstad 76. Bolstadfjord 76. Bolstadgren 75. Bolvig 34. Bonaes-Pass 230. Bonétset 220. 367. Bonddal 172. Bonddalsnut 55. Bondesund 55. Bondhus 55. Bondhusbrae 55. Bondhusvand 55. Bondivand 15. Boris 284. 289. Boren, Lake 299. Borenshult 298. Borgafjeld 60. Borgasund 348. Borgenfjord 219. Borggaard 274. Borghamn 296. Borgholm Borgstena %9. Borgund (Laerdal) 94. -— (near Aalesund) 169. Boris-Gleb 267. Borliinge 361. 363. 365. Bornholm 391. Born 35. 38. Borre 31. Borrenas 92. Borrevand 31. Borstenag 289.. Bosjtikloster 381. Bossekop 253. Botnedal 36. Botnen (Fiksensund) 57. Botnet, Gaard 230. Botnfjord 243. Botten i Grungedal 28. - (Rgldalsvand) 42. - Bottensaeter 30 Buttensjé 291. Bottnjuvkamb 98. Boxholm 302. Edda. 388. Bgdal 189. Bgdalsbrae 189. Bgdalsfjeld 189. Bgdalssaeter 189. Bgen 26. Bflfjord 112. Bggeskog 33. Bflgfjord 266. Bgmmelfjord 51. 52. Bflmmelfl 51. Biina 359. Biirhul 101. Bflrlaug 81. Bgmsund 242. Btirringe 391. Byarsvatnstinder 235. Bgrtnaes 80. Barve Naustad 63. Barvenut 63. Bragernms 16. Bragernaesaas 17. Bragerfl 15. Brahehus 294. Brakedalsfjeld 34. Brakenees 58. Brandalsfjord 172. Brandhovd 97. ' Brasfjeld 266. Brastad 278. Bratfl 275. Brawren 213. Bratsbergklev 33. Bratta. 279. Brattifjeld 247. Brautesaet 169. 172. Brblcke 366. Braekeg 182. Braekke (nearArendalJ35. —— (Opstrynvand) 188. —— (Sognefjord) 112. —— (Vossestranden) 107. Braekkefjeld 188. Braekstad 200. . Braenden, Gaard 207. Braendhougen 120. Bruandsdal 191. 360 B1- 'lanfla Braivalla-Heaih 379. Briivik 304. Bredfond 30. Bredheim 180. Bredheimsdal 180. Bredheimsvand 180. Bredikfjeld 231. Brednaes 105. Bredsjii (Sweden) 360. Brleédéja (Gudbrandsdal) Bredstrand 243. Bredsund 169. 172. Bredvand (Gudbrands- dal) 127. — (near Stavanger) 46. Bredvangen 119. Bredvik 197. Breidalseggen 163. Breidalsvand 163. Breidvik 42. Breikvam 98. Breilaupa. 128. 136. Breinaes 105. Breistglen 81. Breive 42. Brejmaas 15. ‘ Bremangerland 166. Bremsnaes ' . Brendesaeter 83. Brengsnaessaeter 189. Brettesnaes 240. Breum 180. Breumsvand 180. Brevik 38. Brigsdal, Gaard 192. —, Glacier of 192. Brigsdalselv 192.; Bringe 101. Brinkebergskulle 287. Bro 311. Brodbo 365. Broddenfjeld 246. Broddetorp 290. Brodfl 242. Brokind 303. Brotedal 162. Briimsebéick 387. Briimsebro 387. Brangsund 228. Brflsterud 25. Bruflat 89. Bruksholmen 304- Bruland 179. Brulandsfos 179. Brummavand 80. Br1u3%ef¢lge(Th0rfinstind) - (Trolltinder) 125- Brunelid 24. Brunflo 366. Brunhemsberg 290.3 Brunkeberg 27. Brunnbiick Brunneby 299. Brunnsviken 341. - Brunaberg 306. INDEX. 397 Brunstad, Gaard 174. Brurskanke 229. Brurskarknatte 128. Brusesaeter 93. Bryggen 166. Bryn 113. Bu, Gaard 59. Buar, Gaard 65. Buarbrse 64. 65. Bubbetorpsfi. 386. Bud 170. Buene 105. Bufjeld 59. Bugofjord 266. Bugflnses 266. Bugsnaesfjeld 266. Bukkehul 144. Bukkelwger 140. Bukken 52. Bukkenfjord 50. 45. 46. Bukkenc 50. Buko 34. Bullaresjtiar 279. Bundefjord 37. 273. Burderaas 15. Burud 18. Buskerud 79. Buskevik 378. Buskrednaase 101. Bussesund 263. Bustetun i Odde 64. Byfjord (near Bergen)168. —— (near Uddevalla) 287. Bygdarelv 60. Bygdeelv 100. Bygdin, Lake 136. Bygdinsund 136. Bygdfl 11. 14. Byglandsfjord 41. Bykle 41. Byklesti 41. Byklevand 42. Byna 204. Byre 118. Byvalla 365. Qacce-Suollo 264. Carlberg 341. Cattegat 385. Cecilienkrone 191. Charlottenberg 272. 305. Christiania 1 Akershus 5. Ankerlskkens Grav- lund 4. Antiquities,Northern7. Athenaeum 2. Banks 2. 5. Christiania: Baths 2. 4. 5. Bazaar 4. Bjflrvik 4. Boats 3. Booksellers 2. Botanic Garden 8. — Museum 7 Brandvagt 4. Byret 4. Cabs 1. Cafés 1. Charles XIV.‘s Statue Christian IV.’s Sta- tue 4. Coins, Cabinet of 7. Consulates 2. Dampkjflkken 4. Deiiéthmann‘s Library Drammensvei 11. Eidsvolds-Plads 5. Ekeberg .12. English Church 3. Engravings and Draw- ings, Coll. of 10. Ethnogr. Museum 7. Freemasons‘ Lodge 5. Frognersseter 12. Gamla Akers Kirke 6. Gaustad Lunatic Asy- lum 12. Griiner Lflkken 5. St. Hangshaugen 6. Heegdehougen 12. Hotels 1. Hoved Banegaard 4. Hovedfl 11. .lohanskirke 5. Karl Johans Gade 4. Kunstforening 9. Kunstindustrie - Mu- seum . Laboratory 8. Museum of Art 8. Music 2. National Gallery 8. Newspapers 2. Norges Bank 5. Observatory 8. St. Olafskirke 6. ()scarshall 11. o 3. Oslo Hospital 10. .Gstbanegaard 4. Palace 10. -, Old 10. Palaishavens Pavillon 10 Pipervik 5. Christiania : Post Office 2. 5. Railway Stations 2. Restaurants 1. R-igshospital 10. Sculpture Gallery 8. Shops 2. Sindssyge-Asyl 12. Skydsstation 1. Slot 10. Slotspark 10. Steamers 2. Storthings Bygning 6. Stortorv 4. Studenterlunden 7. Tegneskole 10. Telegraph Office 2. Theatres 2. 5. Tivoli 2. Toldbodbrygge 4. Tramway 1. Trefoldigheds Kirke 6. Turist Forening 2. University 7. Vestbanegaard 5. Vestre Akers Kirke 12. VorFrelsersGr-avlund 6. Vor Frelsers Kirke 4. Wedel - Jarlsberg’s Monument 11. Zoolog. Museum 7. Christiania-Fjord 36. 3. Christiansand 39. —— Fjord 39. Christianstad 380. Christiansten 216. Christiansund 170. 200. Christineberg 392. Christinehamn 360. Christinehof 392. Christinelund 384. Claestorp 292. Conradsberg 340. Copenhagen 389. Corgas-Njarg 261. Daanofos 119. Dagalid 25. Dagltisen 360. -— (Lake, near Filipstad) 260 Dal (near Eidsvold) 113. Dala 289. Dalarne 363. 365. Dalar6 348. Dalbobro 288. Dalby (near Lund) 383. —- (near Upsala) 353. Dale (Dalsfjord) 165. 168 - (Lilledal) 204. Politikammer 4. Porterage 2. -- (Lysterfjord) 101. —- (Maanelvdal) 23. 398 INDEX. Dale (Osterfjord) 75. 76. Dalecarlia 363. Daledal 101. Dalelf 58. 363. 365. Dalen (Bandaksvand) 35. —— (Foldal) 203. —- (Lyngentjord) 251. Dalensaeter 101. Dalevaagen 76. Dalsbflvand 167. Dalsdal 168. Dalseidet 75. Dalséj ord (Sendfjord) 165. 16 - (Valders) 134. Dalshest 165. Dalskog 277. Dalslands Canal 276. 360. Dalsseeter 127. Damfos 33. Damsgaardfjeld 68. Danmark 350. Dannemora 358. Danviken Darbo 19. Daviken 166. Degeberga 380. Degerfors 307. Degeriin 302. Deje 360. Dellen, Sddra. and Norra 366. Delsbo 366. Demelsviken 55. Dettern 288. Digermulen (Tanafjord) 262 —— (Vesteraalen) 242. Digertind 230. Digervarde 122. Digrenaes 63. ~ Dilling 2'73. Dingtuna 310. Diserud 116. Dispen 187.‘ Djefvulsklfiva 279. Djekneboda 370. Djupadal (near Troll- hattan) 286. Djiipzdal (Gudbrandsdal) 1 . upedal (Hedal) 80. DJ-upvande 164. ;upvandsfos 164. ‘upvik 369. ;uvbrae 130. Quvvand (Fanaraak) 150. - (Galdhgpig) 146. Djuvvandsaa 150. Dtécfika, Gaard (Val-ders) JU UUUU Dokka (river) 88. Dokkafos 150. Dokmodal 233. Dolstens Cavern 167. Domaas, or Dombaas 120. 201. Domen 263. Domnarfvet 361. Dorreflot 188. Dovre 120. Dovrefjeld 201. Dddens Gfing 287. Dagerdalsvand 59. Dogerfos 58. 59. Dolefjeld 159. Dgle-Selen 207. Danefos 182. Dennfos 162. Dgntefos 124. Desen 101. Dgviksfos 18. Drage 167. Dragseid 243. Dragstind 227. Drammen 16. Drammenselv 15. 16. Drammensfjord 15. Dravle—Vand 56. Drgggebo 177. Dreggebonipen 177. Dreshula 117. Drevjebruget 229. Driva 202. 203. -—, Ravine of the 203. Drivafos 198. Drivstuen 203. Drottningholm 343. Drottviknsering 261. Drebak 37. Dreia 209. Drcilierne 209. Drenen 170. Dresjafos 91. Dryllenosset 137. Dufed 367. Dufnas 348. Dufvedal 298. Dulsaeter 101. Dumhe 148. Duma 148. 158. Dunderlandsdal 231. Duneggen 180. - Dunkehallar Durmaalstind 250. 251. Duse . Dverberg 243. Dvergsnses or Dversnees 1 . Dybvik (Foldentjord) 236. . -— (Lyngenfjord) 251. Dylta 307. Dyngfl 35. 38. Dynnaesfl 230. Dyrdal 106. Dyre Fond 29. Dyreskard 29. Dyretjern 83. Dyrfjeld 107. 4! Dyrhaugsfjeld 160. Dyrhaugstind 160. Dyringssoeter 162. Dyrfl 245. Dyresund 245. Dyrteigen 75. Eckerd 344. Ed 276. 277. Edane 306. Edeback 360. Edefors 370. 371. Ednafos 64. Edsberg 350. Edsvalla 360. Edsvalla Bruk 306. Edsviken 342. 350. _ Egeberg, see Ekeberg. Egersund 44. Eggenibba 181. Eggesvik 235. Egguraxlen 184. Eid (Fanefjord) 179. — (Eidsfjord) 60. —- ('ghrondhjem Fjord 21 . — (near Fortun) 158. —— (Lister) 40. Eidanger 33. Eidangerfjord 33. Eide (Hardangerfj ord)57. -- (Isingvand) 195. —— (near Isingvaag) 171. -— (Moldefjord) 168. —— (Oldenvand) 191. ——, .O’Vre & Ytre (Op- strynvand) 187. — (Sognefjord) 108. —- (Geirangerfjord) 184. Eidesnut 64. Eidet 209. Eidfjord 58. 57. Eidsaa 168. Eidsborgaasen 36. Eidsborg 36. Eidsbud 138. Eidsbugarden 138. Eidsfjeld 25. Eidsfjord (Sognefjord) 108. 109. — (Laxefjord) 261. —- (Nordfjord) 166. Eidsfos 167. Eidso'ren 197. 204. Eidsskog 272. Eidsvaag (Langfjord) 197. Eidsvand (Fortundal)158. —2g%‘hrondhjem8-Stift) INDEX. 399 Eidsvold 113. 205. Eidsvoldsbakke 113. Eidsvoldsverk 113. Eierdal 96. Eikedal, Gaard 56. Eikedalsfos 56. Eikedalsvand 56. Eiirieéfjord (Sognefjord) —— (Sendfjord) 166. Eikenses 187. Eikenseshest 166. Eikisdal 123. 198. Eikisdalsvand 198. Eilandt 28 Eimeheia 82. Einabu 123. Einingevik 52. Einsaetfjeld 67. Eirisfjord 198. Eiteraa 231. Eiteraadal 229. Eitn$S 64. Eitrheim 64. Eivindvik 112. Ekbyborna 299. Ekeberg 12. Ekeblads Sluss 286. Ekedalen 289. Ekelidhfl 28. Ekensberg 343. Ekers 45. Ekersjfl 19. Ekersund 44. Ekkere, Lille and Store 264 Ekne 219. Ekoln 353. Ekolsund 311. Ekolsundsviken 311. Ekornholm 114. Ekre 80. Eksjii 388. Eksund 304. Elbjflrg 92. Eldal 178. Eldalsosen 178. Eldegaard 98. Eldeholt 98. Elden 219. 220. Eldre-Vand 81. Elfdal 307. Elfkarleby 359. Elfkarleii 358. Elfsjii 292. Elfsnabben 348. Elfverums Udde 295. Elfvisluss 287. Elgarfis 291. Elgfifjord 306. Elgenaafos 173. Elgersheia 30. Eli, 201. Ellefsmoen 82. Ellingsgaard 186. Elmhult 380. Elsborg 362. Elstakleven 117. Eltevik 167. Elvdal, Lille 208. -—, Store 208. Elvebakken (Altenfjord) 253. —— (near Saveien) 247. Elvegaard 243. Elvenaes 267. Elverum 206. Emmaboda 386. Enaelf 367. Enafors 367. Enare-Trsesk 267. Endinfos 130. Enerhaug 168. Engebacken 287. Engeim, Gaard 147. Engelbrektsholm 309. Engelholm 284. 383. 392. Engels‘ 244. Engelsberg 310. 361. Engelvser 244. Engen i Stsren 205. 210. Enger (nearHolsfjord) 15. (Gaard, on Lake Spirillen) 85. Engerfjeld 15. Engervand 14. Enktiping 311. Enontekis 270. Enstad-Sseter 121. Erdal 188. Erdalen 59. Erdalsbree 104. Erdalsnut 59. Erdflla 188. St. Erik's Borg 351. St. Erik's Grotto 280. Erikssund 352. Erikstad 360. Erlandsgaard 24. Erlfingen, Lake 303. Ernsesfjeld 198. Ertvaags 200. Ervalla 309. Ervik 167. Esjokk 268. Eskevik 49. Eskilstuna 349. Eskilstunafi. 348. Esliif 381. Espa 127. Espedalsvand 126. Espelandsfos 65. Espelandssseter 178. Espelandsvand 59. Espen 206. Essefiord 110. _- Essingen, Lilla and Stora 343 Etelhelm 378. Etnaelv 88. Etne 49. Etne-Pollen 49. Evanger 76. Evangervand 75. 76. Evedal 385. Evensesdal 237. Evenbuvand 28. Evensgaard 237. Exingdal 111. Faaberg, Gaard 104. 162. Faiatiergstsl, Sseter104. 0 —-, Glacier 104. Faars 192. 197. Fagerits 306. Fagerdal 101. Fagerlund 90. Fagermo 236. Fagernaes (in Valders) — (Ofotenfjord) 243. Fagersanna 291. Fagersletnipen 177. Fagersta 361. Faleide 181. 186. Falerum 304. Falkenberg 284. Falketind 139. Falkt'iping 289. Falnses 50. Falsterbo 390. Falun 362. Fanaraak 150. Fanaraakbrae 150. Fanefjord 195. Fanestrand 193. 195. Fantestenene 149. Fardal 98. Faret 41. Fariselv 33. Farisvand 33. Farnses 98. 158. Farodden 34. Farrejaur 237. Farsund 44. 179. Farvolden 34. Fastdalstind 259. Fauske, Gaard 81. Faxeelf 369. Faxtind 245. Fsemund-Sjfl 307 . Fsemundselv 307. Farjestad 388. Ffirtisund 378. Fedde 40. 44. Feddefjord 44. Feigumsfos 100. 101. Feiringsbay 206. 400 INDEX. Fejos 110. Felden 169. Fellingsbro 309. Femsjaen 277. Fennebufjord 25. Fennefos 41. Fet (Q'sterdalen) 272. —- (Sognefjord) 100. Fetsund 272. Fibelstad-Hougen 175. 183 Fibelstadnibba 175. Fiholm 349. Fiksensund 56. Filipstad 360. Fillef‘jeld 92. 93. Fillefjeldvand 93. Fillingsvand 122. Fimreite 109. Finbnle-Saeter 127. Finbfllhoug 127. Findfl 48. Finhals, Pass 145. Finhalselv 145. Finkirke, Store and Lille 26 1. Finkna—Fjeld 229. Finkroken 250. Finmarken 245. Finneid 236. Finnrdd'a. 291. Finsaet 00. Finskog 307. Finsnms 265. Finspong 291. 304. Finsta 347. Finstaholm 352. Finsund 247. F irdalfylke 165. Fiskebla'ckskil 279. Fiskekjan 42. 48. Fiskesby 304. Fisktjernmo 231. Fiskum 221. Fiskumfos 221. Fiskumvand 19. Fister 48 Fittja 344. Fiva, Gaard 125. aagesund 34. iiflerigg 369. ‘éllbacka. 279. ‘aer 220 aere 49. Qaerland 110. Flaerlandsfjord 110. eldhoug 114. eldvidde 80. .elkinge 380. erdinggraend 127. mvaszmger 76. ‘ ‘Kseide 171. Fllaam 106. 3 MPMIQPME qfqPq Flaamsdal 59. 106. Flaata. 179. Flaate 186. Flaaten (Oldenvand) 191. Flaathgl 28. Flaathglelv 28. Flaatsbunut 28. Flaavand 34. Fladberg 66. Fladsaet 200. Flagan-Sjii 306. Flagerssetnqs 92. Flagstade! 241. Flagsund 244. Flatdal 27. Flatdalsvand 27. Flat-ebfl, Gaard 56. Flatebz'gje] 57. Flaten 92. —, Lake 305. Flatmark 124. Fleina. 234. Flekkefjord 44. Flen 292. 349. Flenjanaasi 106. Flenje-Eg 106. Flesberg 24. Flesene 241. Flesje 110. Fleskedalselv 154. Fleskedalssaeter 154. Fleskedalstind 154. Flofjeld 188. Flore 182. Floren 218. Flomen 166. Floten 25. Flotfl 181. Flottbergstrém 287. Flaen 74. Flaifjeld 68. 74. Fliitsund 353. Fluberg 88. Flysaeter 127. Fodnaes 97. Fogeltin 343. Fogelsta. 302. Foglavik 289. Fogsaae 202. Fogstuen 203. Fogstuhg 203. Folda. 202. Foldal 203. Foldenfjord (near Bodfl) 244 —— (near Namsos) 227. Folden-Sjfl 227. Folgefond 54. 63. 66. Folkslunda. 388. Follestaddal 172. Folsjfl 21. Fondalbree 233. Fondgla. 102. ~ Fonhusfjeld 86. Forfi 367. Forbord 219. Formo 117. Formokampen 119. Fornaesdal 251. ——, Glacier 251. Fornavself 251. Fornaestind 250. 251. Forra. 218. Forradal 210. Fors 365. Forsastrtim 304. Forserum 293. Forshem 290. Forssa. 368. Fortun 158. Fortundal 159. Fortunelv 158. 159. Fortungalder 151. Fosbraat-en 90. Fosdal 98. 189. Foseide 201. 205. Fosen 226. Fosheimfos 180. Fosland 220. 221. Foslandsosen 227. Fosnaes 188 219. Fosnaesbrae 188. Fossan 47. Fossegaarden 117. Fosseim, Gaard 81. 90. Fosseimsaeter 80. . Fossen 103 Fossesaeter 101. Foxen 276. Faglevand 180. Fglsvik 169. -— (Breumsvand) 180. — (Austefjord) 169. 182 Fardefjord 165. 178. or Bredheimsvand 180. Fyardenip 179. Fgrresvik 50. F6r-Sigtuna 352. Fgrtnaes 91. Framrusthovd 162. Frindefors 360. tiania) 11. Fredrikshald 275. 278. Fredrikstad 273. Fosmoen (Bardudal) 247. Fgrde (Fgrdefjord) 178. 166 Fredrikaborg (near Chris- —- (near Stockholm) 347. INDEX 401 Fredriksten 275. Fredriksvaern 38. Fredriksvand 162. Fredfl 200. Freheim 64. Freibottenfjeld 95. Frengstuen 115. Fre8§1ik(Sognefjord) 105. —- (Sflrfjord) 64. Fresvikbrse 108. 1.10. Fresviksfjeld 105. Fretheim, Gaard 106. Fridened 289. Friersfjord 33. Friken 154. Frinnaryd 302. Fristad 289. Fritzg 33. Fro-I-Iav 226. Fro-Q'er 226. Frogner 113. Frognerkilen 14. Frognerseeter 12. Fron 118. Frosten 219. Frostisen 244. Friisjii 292. Frojen 166 Frojsmt 196. Frolandsdal 56. Frcningen, Indre 105. ——, Ytre 105. 108. Friisii 366. Friivi 309. Frudalsbrae 109. Fruhesten 109. Fruholmen 257. Frustunasjti 292. Frydenlund 89. 87. Fryken Lakes 306. Fryksdal 306. Frykstad 306. Fugleho 130. Fuglen 170. Fuglenaebbet 250. Fuglesteg, Gaard 158. Fuglc 234. 251. Fuglsaeter 130. Fuglsaetfjord 111. Fnglsteg 98. Fuglsund 249. Fulltofta 381. Fureberg 55. Furnaesfjord 114. Fursaet 200. Furuheim 21. Furunipa 110. Furusseter 58. Furusund 347. Fuske 236. 244. Fuskeeid 236. 244. BAnuEKnR‘s Norway Futesprang 101. Fyrebovatn 27. Fyrisfi. 351. 353. 354. Fyrisvand 35. 41. Gaapaapigge 127. Gaaratun 60. Gaaserenden 391. Gaasvaaselv 228. Gaden (Baeverdal) 148. Ttagnbro 363. Gagnefskyrka 363. Galdeberg 137. Galdebergsfos 137. Galdebergstind 137. 140. Galdehoi 146. Galder (Lserdal) 95. — (near Sonjerheim) 84. 106 Galderne, Gaard 95. Galdhoer 130. Galdhgpig 146. Galdhctind 146. Galjebergvand 150. Galleberg 31. Galtesund 39. Gamla Upsala 357. Gamleby 304. Gamlebyvik 304. Gamledalsfos 180. Gammalleroppa 307. Gamvig 262. Gangdalskavl 59. Gansfjord 46. larberg 201. 205. Gardmo 129. Gargia 269. Gar-lid 205. Garlidszeter 83. Garnaes ((lsterfjord) 75. 76. -— (Throndhjems - Stift) 220 Garnsvik 350. Garthus 86. Gaupne 102. Gaupnefjord 100. 102. Gausdal 116. — -Sanatorium 116. Gausnaes 185. Gausta 23. Gautetun 48. 42. Gavlfjord 243. Gallii 366. G616 348.- Gefle 359. Geflefi 359. Geijersdal 360. Geirangerfjord 183. Gellivara 370. Gemla 385. Gestrikland 359. 365. Gesundaberg 364. and Sweden 2nd Edit. Getaasen 61. Getsvaltan 378. Ghirragas-Tjokko 246. Gibostad 246. Giboen 24. Gieddegaevdnje 267. Gilbert‘s Grotto 295. lildeskaal 234. Gildreskreden 100. lillesdal 188. Gillestad 190. Gillund 114. Gimnaes 171. 200. GilIlSfl 33. Gimsg-Lyngvser 241. Gimsostrom 241. Gissund 244. Gistad 303. Gjednses 195. Gjeidet 104. Gjeiteggen 106. eiteryggen 110. eitfos 183. eithus 98. eitsdal 103. eitsdola 103. elho 140. elhus i Naesland 36. elle, Gaard 98. ellebsek, Gaard 17. ellefos 98. ellero 60. ello 37. 273. tellumvand 15. elmundsdal 92. \elsten 170. ende, Lake 140 endebod 140. endebrynet 137. “454294499499 iendemsfjeld 170. *endeosen 131. 142. endesheim 142. cndetunge 141. erde 191. erdeaxlen 191. erenut 83. ermundnses 194. QQQPQQQQQQQQQQQ§QQQQ§Q ermundshavn 55. ersaetvatten 196. ertvand 153. ertvashoen 156. ertvashrse 152. ertvaselv 152. 156. ertvasnaasi 156. ertvastop 156. Gjesvaer 257. Gjetenyken 181. Gjetfjeld 217. Gjethus 18. Gjetsjfl 25. Gjgdingsbsek 162. 26 pessingen, Saater 149. 1 159 ‘ 402 INDEX. Gjeen Kvitingen 56. Gjarven 187. Gjese 47. Gjcvik (Mjesen) 115. -— (Ulfsfjord) 250. Gjul 171. Gjuvaa 24. Gjuveland 24. Gjuvsje 24. ' Glaama 147. 130. Glaamstad 130. 147. Glafsfjord 306. 360. Glan, Lake 304. Glengshallen 274. Glimminghus 392. Glimsdalsfos 142. Glipsfjeld 97. 105. Glitra 144. Glitterhfl 162. Glittertind 144. Glomfjord 233. Glommen (Glomfijord) 233. —— (river) 206. 272. 273. etc. Glomnacseg on 188. Glomsdal 188. Gloppenfjord 167. Gloptind 131. Gnesta 292. Goalsevarre 251. Goatzagaise 251. Gockeraxelen 146. Gockerdal 146. Godegz‘ird 302. Godjavre 237. (lodmadslandet 170. Gods (near Aalesund) 169. 172. — (Saltenfjord) 235. Godflstrom 235. Godflsund 52. Godtlandsmyr 208. Gogseren 198. Gokra. 145. Gokradal 145. Gokraskard 145. G01 80. Golmes Oaaive 265. Golsbakker 80. Golzevaggegaissa 251. Gonas 309. Gorsbotn 30. Gorsen 170. Gorsvatten 30. 31. Gorsvingane 30. Gothenburg 280. Gotland 373. Gottenvik 300. Gera. 204. Giirvalen 351. Gtita Canal 291. 297. 298. . etc. Gb'taelf 280. 281. 288. 289. etc Gdteborg 280. Graahellerfjeld 58. Graahe 127. Graanaase, Store 105. Graasiden 76. Graaura 204. Graddisdal 231. 237. Grafverna 279. Grafversfos 305. Grande 184. Grandsherred 21. Graneimfjord 90. Granesund 165. Grankulla 388. Granum(Randsfjord)115. —— (Spirillen) 85. Grashorung 137. 140. Grasvikseeter 128. Gratangenfjord 245. Grauthorn 183. Gravahals 59. 106. Gravaune 204. Gravdal (near 75. —-— (Hardangerfjord) 55. — (Jotunheim) 157. — (Valders) 89. Gravdefos 124. Graven 77. Gravenfjord 57. Gravens-Kirke 57. 77. Gravensvand 77. 90. Gravfjord 245. Gravfos 18. Grangesberg 309. 360. Grasberg 361. Greesholm 37. Grastorp 288. Grz‘ikarlen 296. Griista 363. Greaker 274. Grebbestad 279. Grebstadhorn 185. Greby 279. Gredung 188. Gredungsbrae 104. 188. Gredungssaater 188. Gredungsstel 104. Grefsens-Bad 12. Grenna 294. Gretastue 82. Grillby 311. Grimenvand 76. Grimestad 57. Grimo 62. Grimsnut 58. Grimsrud 86. Grimstad 39. Grindaheim 91. Grindefjeld 81. 91. Bergen) Grindefj ord 47. Griningsdal 128. Grinin gs dalssaetre 128. 131. Grip 170. 171.3 Gripenberg 302. Gripsholm 344. Gripshelen 171.; Grisletjern 141. GriSselhamn 347. Grjotaa 145. Grjotaafjeld 161. Grjotlid 163. Grjotlidsvand 163. Grodaas 182. Gronaelv 83. Gropbro 288. Grorud 113. Grov 188. Groven 36. Grovhoved 28. Grena 121. Grendal (in the Halling- dal) . - (Romsdal) 122. Grendalselv 65. Grendcla 81. Groneng 111. Grgnfur 188. Groning 185. Grenlidsaeter 93. Grgnnaes 220. Grenneberg 140. Grenneskredbrae 104. Grant; 233. Grenssetre 122. Grdnskulle 379. Gransdalselv 65. Gretdalst-inder 172. Grow 244. Gretsund 249. Grcttingbraetten 207. Grflvdal 195. Grevnaebba 204. Grufsjti 358. Grums 360. Grundset 207. Grundskallen 241. Grundsund 279. Grungedal 28. Grungedalsbro 28. Grungedalsbygden 24. Grungedalselv 28. Grungedalsfjeld 28. Grungedalsvand 28. Grunken, Gaard 81. Grunnebo 287. Grut 205. Gryptarran 170. Grytefjeld 187. Gryten 126. Gryterejdsnib 191. Grythyttehed 360. Gryting, Gaard 118. INDEX. 403 Gryting i Raldal 30. Gryta 245. Gubbelaadal 231. Gudaa 218. Gudbrandsdal 116. Gudbrandsgaard 83. Gudhem 290. Gudvangen 107. Gula (Sognefjord) 177. -- ('I‘hiéggdhjem Fjord) Gulbraa 11.1. Guldheple 110. Guldhav 247. Guldholmen 262. 266. Guldkrokan 289. Guldsmedmoen 41. Guldsmedshyttan 309. Gulefos 210. Gulekop 182. Gulenfjord 112. Gullbergs Vass 289. Gullholmen 279. Gullmarsfjord 279. Gull5 286. Gulltifall 286. Gullspfing 307. Gulosen‘210. Gulseth 171. 200. Gulskogen 17. Gulsvik 79. Gumpekulla 303. Gunlien 230. Gunnarstorp 384. Gunvordsbrw 105. 110. Guolacaerro 247. Guridalssaetre 156. Gurskg 167. Gusiaas 197. Gusselby 309. Gustafs 365. Gustafsberg (near Stock- holm) 347. -— (near Uddevalla) 287. Gustafsfors 276. Gutvik 228. Gvarvel 34. Gygrastol 55. Gygrerava 57. Gyranfisen 85. Gyrihaug 18. Haahjem 191. Haajen 253. 255. Haakedal 23. Haakenaesfjeld 23. Haanstad 201. Haarstad 204. Haarteigen 62. Habo 293. Haddorp 302. Hadeland 88. Hadreid—Kirke 172. Hadreidland 167. 172. Hadselfjord 242. Hafrsfjord 45. Hafslo 100. Hafslovand 99. 100. Hafslund 274. Hafstad 178. Hafstadsaetre 178. Haiti (near Stockholm) 3 -— (on the Glommen) 272 —— ('I‘unhevdfjord) 25. Hagby 387. Hagesaet-Saater 92. Hagestad 59. Hagstrand 91. Hakunge 347. Halbrand 178. Halbrandsfos 178. 179. Halbrandssaster 178. Haldi 253. Hallands Vaderii 284. 385. Hallandsfis M. 385. Halleberg 288. Halleby 303. Hallingby 85. .Hallingdal 78. 82. Hallingdalselv 79. Hallingskarv 82. 83. Halli} Fyr 279. Hallsberg 291. Halmstad 284. Halnekolle 83. Halogaland 228. Halsefjord 171. Halseno 52. Halseneen 229. Halvgjaarde 179. Halvorvand 83. Hamar 114. 206. Hammarby 350. Hammarbysjii 342. Hammer 220. Hammeren 391. Hammerfest 253. Hammernses 230. Ilammergtind 245. Hammersbflen 82. 25. Hamnskars Fyr 279. Hamrene 104. Hamsaelv 163. Hanaes 170. Hanekamb 57. Hanestad 207. Hanks Kystsanatorium 274. Hannesfl 232. Hana 242. Hansbu 25. Hanspikje 162. Héparénda 372. Haraldshaug (Hange- sund) 51. Haraldshougen (Valders) Haralds-Statte 51. Harbaken 263. Hardangerfjord 53. Hardanger Jflkul 62. —- Vidde 62. Hardbakke 202. Hardegsseter 121. Harebak 227. Harebakhulen 227. Harefos 267. Harg 358. Harhamse 170. Harnas 359. Harstadhavn 245. Hartensund 278. Hartevand 42. Hasselfors 307. Hasseludde 347. Hastaberg 360. Hasvik 253. Hattebergsdal 55. Haugan 219. Haugaasen 103. Haugaasgjel 103. Haugenaase 104. Haugene (Thelemarken) 35 41 —- (Sognefjord) 96. Haugesund 51. Haugfos 189. Haugmaelen 99. Haugnaase 95. Haugnses 230. Haugsholm 168. Haugsnaes(llardanger)62. Haugum 221. Haukaas 56. Hauka-Elv 205. Haukedal 178. Haukedalsvand 111. 178. Haukeland-Lone 76. Haukelandsvand 76. Haukelifjeld 28. Haukeli-Saeter 29. Hausadn 102. Havbro 261. Haven (Dynga) 38. Havnaes 251. Havnevik 195. Havnen 171. Havningberg 263. Havns 229. Havnskjel 2(1). Havnvik 245. Have 257. Havasund 257. Havshalfos 158. Heeg (Lserdal) 94. 82. Hiigersten 26* 404 INDEX. Haegge (Q'stre Slidre) 134. Héiggeby 352. Haeggefjord 134. Hwggestad 188. Haeksfjeld 21. Haestad 111. Héstbo 365. Héistholmen 295. 347. Héistveda. 380. Hfikantorp 288. 290. Hfillsta. 349. Hfitunaholm 352. Heby 364. Hedal (Spirillen) 85. Hedalen (Hstre Slidre) 34 1 . Hedalsfjord 134. Hedalsmukampen 127. Hedemarken 114. 206. Hedemora 365. Hedensfors 370. 371. Hedsten-Elv 30. Hedstensnuten 31. Heen 19. Heensbreuden 19. Hegge, Gaard 229. Heggedal 15. Heggeim 201. Heggen 18. Heggenhaugen 115. Heggestrand 100. Hegre 218. Heiberg, Gaard 108. Heiba 21.’ Heilstuguaa. 144. Heilstugubrae 144. Heilstuguhg 143. 144. Heilstuguvand 163. Heimdal 201. 205. 210. Heimdalsvand 163. Helevand 81. Helgasjii 387. Helgefi 380. Helged-al 150. 153. Helgedalselv 153. Helgedalssazter 153. Helgeland 228. Helgez 115. Helghéim 180. Helgonabakke 383. Helgfi 251. Hell 218. Helle i Hyllestad 41. —- (Numedal) 24. Helleberg 116. Helleforsniis 349. 360. Hellefos 17. . Hellekis 290. Helleland 62. Hellemofjord 243. Hellerfos 143. Hellerkjwrn 143. Hellesaetergaarde 189. Hellesylt 183. 175. Helligdomsklipperne391. Helsan 384. Helsetvand 183. Helsingborg 384. Helsingland 365. Helsingiir 384. Helsingvand 81. Helvedesfos 40. Helvedeshgl 116. Helvedet (Simodal) 61. Helvetesfallen 287. Helvetesfos 101. Helvigen 169. Helvik 5U. 52. Hemdalshorn 185. Hemnaes 230. Hemse 378. Hemsedal 80. Hemsedalsfjeld 81. Hemsedals-Kirke 81. Hemsila 80. Hen 195. > Hengen 87. Henjum 109. Henjumda-l 110. Hennan 366. ll'enningsvaer 241. Herand 57. Hereid 98. Hermanii 279. Hernijsand 369. Hera (Hardangerfjord) 50. 52. 55. — (Nordland) 230. -— (Sandmgre) 167. Herrevadskloster 383. Herrevand 150. Herrgfirden, Gamla. 362. Herrgottsbakk'en 33. Herrhult 360. 307. Herrljunga. 289. Hervasbrui 150. Hesg 172. Hesselby 351. Hessleby 388. Hessleholm 380. Hestbraepiggene 147. 161. Hestebrae 102 Hesteklev 31. Hesteklevfos 31. Hestenaes 166. Hestevolden 136. Hestholmen 196. Hestmandsfl 232. Hestmoen 232. Hestnaesfos 107. Hestkjaersfyr 170. Hesttjern 131. Hiefjord 170. Hildal 31. 49. 65. Hildalsfos 65. Hildehalsen 181. Hildre 170. Hillerhfli 157. Hillestad 100. 101. Himingen 226. Himmeltinder 241. Hilgien, Store and Vesle 1 Hindfly 131. Hindfl 242. Hindsaeter 131. Hingglelid-Saeter 127. Hirsdal 18. Hisfjord 55. Hisingen 283. Hisa 39. Hitterdal 21. Ilitterdalsvand 34. 21. Hitterelv 208. Hitteren 171. 218. Hjaafos 48. liaelmodal 60. 61. H~aelm0elv 60. H_] aerdal 26. Huaersjfl 26. HJan-tg' 192. 197. 1116118 162. 163. 188. elledal 162. 163. ellum 206. elmare Canal 309. elmaren, Lake 309. elmeland 48. 611119! 257. elmastgren 257. elmsiiter 290. erpstriimmen 367. ertatsudde 287. ertdal, see Hjserdal. erterudssund 276. |ertnaes 32. erm 244. essan 295.2 0 289. 295. glstrevand 174. . arendfjord, see J Grund- fjord. H jasenfjord 48. H juske . Hjuvvand 174. Hladehammeren 213. 217 ~ Hoaasnaebba 204. Hoburg 378. Hodnszeter 106. Hodnsnipe 106. Hoeim 199. Hoeimfjeld 199. Hoeimtind 199. Hoe], Gaard $14. Hoem 171. Hof, Gaard 111. 178. 206. EEr:emegempmememrmnmcmemengem {men Pm. INDEX. 405 Hofgfird 380. Hofsater 279. Hofsfos 19. Hofslund 101. 109. Hofsnaebba 204. Hofverud 276. Hogrending 189. Hojalm 191. Hojumsvarp 286. Hokstad 219. Hol£3 (Hallingdal) 25. 82. 8 Holaker 121. Holandsfjord 233. Holatinder 161. Holaveden 301. Holden 34. Holen 275. Holenaebba 164. 184. Holgruten 94. Hollsendernaes 246. Holmberget 219. Holmedal 177. Holmedalselv 177. Holmefjeld 182. Holmeim 196. Hil5men (near Drammen) -— (near Falun) 362. -— (Slyngsfjord) 185. —- (near Stavanger) 45. Holmenuten 30. Holmestrand 31. Holmetjern 25. Holmevik 188. Holmii 369. Holmsund 369. Holmsveden 365. Holsset 121. Holsen 178. Holsenvand 178. Holsfjord (Tyrifjord) 14. 15. 18. — (Hallingdal) 83. Holtaalen 209. Holt-an 27. Holvik 23. Hommelviken 218. Homo 220. Hompedalssaeter 103. Hompekulen 103 Hondalsnut 77. Honningsvaag 259. Hopen 243. Hopseid 261. Hopsfjord 261. Horgan . Horgheim 125. Horn . Horn-Avan 237. Hornaas 251. Hornborgas'6 290. Horndal . Hornebfl-Saeter 82. Hornelen 166. Hornindal 182. Hornindalsrokken. 183. Hornindalsvand 166. 182. Home- 264. Hornsnakken 182. Hornvik 258. Horre 30. 42. Horrebraekkene 30. Horreheia 30. Horsevik 178. Horsnaas 251. Horten 37. Hortskarmo 228. 229. Horung 120. Horunger 159.~ Hotlenut 60. Hougen (Fibelstad-) 175. — (Indre-) 182. - (Laerdal) 95. Hougsund 17. -- (Gaard, in Valders) 86. Hov 209. Hovden 112. Hove (Gudbrandsdal)118. —— (Slyngsfjord) 185. — (near Stadtland) 167. Hovedc (near Christia- nia)/11. 37. Hovin (Guldal) 205. 210. -- (Tinsjfl) 22. Hovland 63. 112. Hovringen 217. Hovsbygd 134. Hovsfjord 134. Hcdalsfjord 166. Hofde-Saeter 25. Hiifversby 303. Hsgan-Aas 95. Htiganas 384. Hcgdebrattet 128. Hogehfli 178. Hogerbotten-Seetre 162. Hflgerbottenvand 162. Hcgholme 241. Hiigklint 378. Htigkullen 290. Hpjgronden 207. Htigsjti 291. Hflgstuelflfte 140. Hsgvagelkjaerne 143. Hcgvagel 143. Hiigsrum 388. Hoibjerg 162. Heidalsmo 27. Hoidalsvand 148. Hoifos 148. Hcgerbottenvand 162. Hoiholmstinder 229. Hflimyr 24. Hoiskarsnut 106. Hoistakka 137 . 139. Hgistulen 142. Hoitind 235. Hcivand 148. Hojezci 383. Hiikedalen 277. Hz], Gaard 24. 61. 83. [Island 227 Hole (Holefjord) 46. Holefjord 46. Holjabakfos 99. Holjabakken 99. Holjebrotefjeld 25. Holleraa 86. Honefos 18. Hiinsater 290. Honsene 109. Hiir 380. Hflrdafylke 165. Hiirk 309. Hiirken, Norra and Sodra 360 Hiirningsholm 300. Ho'rsand 206. Hovelfjord 83. Hgvik 14. Hovringen, Sector 119. Huddinge 292. Hudiksvall 368. Hudrum 37. Hufvudnas Fall 288. Hugakolle 91. Huglen 232. Huldrefos 179. Hullekollen 86. Hulta. 300. Hultsfred 388. Humledal 14. Humlegrovand 56. Hummelfjeld 208. Hun 221. Hundebunden 274. Hundsendvand 81. Hundsja-Fjeld 203. Hundsfosse 40. Hundshammer, Gaard Hundsgret 54. Hundvaagfl 50. Hundviksfjord 166. . Hunneberg 288. Hunnerfos 117. Hunselv 115. Hunskirke 115. Huntorp, Gaard 118. Hurtva 392. Husaby 290. Husfibruk 220. 367. Husby, Vestra 300. Husby-Kungsgfird 359. Husbyfjtil 299. Husdal 62. Husebfl, Gaard 109. 110. Husnaesfj 0rd 52. 406 INDEX. Husqvarna 293. Husqvarnafi. 293. Hustadsnteset 173. Hustadvik 170. Husum (Leerdal) 94. Hvaaten 21. Hvale 21. Hvala (near Tromsri) 247. Hvalaer (near Fredriks- hald) 278. Hvalst-ad 15. Hven 392. Hvideseid 27. 34. Hvidesjg 34. Hvidholmsf r 170. Hvidhflfd . 91. Hvidsten 37. Hvilan 392. Hvitingsfos 20. Hvitingsa 50. Hyefjord 166. Hylen 28. 42. 47. 49. Hylla 219. Hylland 107. Hyllandsfos 36. Hylsfjord 42. 49. Hylsskar 49. Ibestad 245. lddefjord 275. 278. Iddonjarga 250. 115 380. Ifosjo 38o. Igelstorp 291. Igla 205. _ Ihlen 213. Ildjernstad 80. 85. llfos 148. Ilseng 206. llvand 153. Ilvasnaase 153. Indalself 367. Indereen 219. Indfjord 194. Indherred 219. Indre Frgningen 105. - Hougen 182. -— Kvare 232. - Samlen 57. —- Vigten 227. — Yri 191. Indselsaet 168. Indstesceter 83. Indviken 181. Ingard 348. Inglinge Hdg 386. Inge 257. Inlandet 170. Inna 220. Insjd 363. Insfle 220. Invikf‘jord 181. 186. Isberg 64. Isdal 61. Isdalsvand 61. Isfjord (Nordfjord) 166. —— (Moldefjord) 126. 195. Isingvand 171. Islenibba 175. Ismanstorp Istad 197. Isterdal 125. Isterdalsfjelde 185. Isterfjelde 126. 194. 196. Isterfos 125. 185. Istinden 246. Jaastad 63. Jacobsdal .342. Jacobselv 267. —, Nordre 265. Jacobselvs Kapel 267. Jakobsberg 311. Jakobslund 299. Jakta 173. Jan71sgaard i Vinje 23. t’) Jarfjord 267. Jarlsberg 31. J ader 249. Jwderen 43. 44. Jaaderens Rev 45. Jiiders Bruk 309. J aderskyrka 349. Jazgerhorn 186. J aegervand 250. J aegervandstind 250. Jeeggevarre 250. Jselse 48. Jarbo 365. Jarla-Sjti 342. Jelben 106. Jelsnaes 166. J else 48. Jemtland 366. Jenny 304. Jensvold 209. Jerfsii 366. Jerfva 342. 350. Jerkin 202. J erkinhe 203. Jerna 292. Jerngruben 21. Jernlunden 303. Jersingnaasi 158. 159. Jertind 250. 251. Jesjokk 268. Jetta 120. J oberg 32. Jockmock 371. Johannisdal 310. J ognfru Marias Synaal omi'rubraaten 12. J J omfruland 38. J onarnaes 56. J osradal (Hardangerfjord) — (near Kongsberg) 20. Jondals-Elv 20. Jondalsbrae 56. Jonsered 289. Jonskard-Saetre 92. Jonsknut 17. 20. Joranger 100. Jordal (near Odde) 65. —- (near Stalheim) 107. —-1(0G7aard, near Stalheim) — (Sundalsf'ord) 171. Jordalselv 64. 65. Jordalsnut 107. Jordbreekke 28. 42. Jordbro, Gaard 231. Jostedal 102. 162. .lostedalsbree 102.103. 179. 187. 192. Jostedalselv 102. Jostedalskirke 103. Jotkajavre 268. Jotunheim 132. Jekelfjeld 252. Jakelfiord 252. Jgkle-Vand 56. Jalsterelv 178. 179. Jelstervand 179. Jonkijping 293. Jerpen 190. Jgrundfjord 173. Jasendal, Gaard 49. Jesenfjord, see Hjesen- or . Jukam, Gaard 87. J ukamsklev 86. Jukasjarvi 372. Jukulegge 81. Jula 291. Jularbo 365. Julaxlen 170. Julsund 170. Jungfru Clifl‘ 296. Junkersdal 231. 237. Juigléersdalsgaard 231. 2 Juratjeld 199. Juttern, Lake 303. Jutulbro 183. Jutulelv 95. Jutulhugget 208. Juxe, see Hiukse. Jygratjeld 179. Kaafjord 251. Kaagc 251. Kaagsund 252. Kaardal, Gaard 59. 106. .Kaasa 22. Kaaven 253. INDEX. 407 Kabelvaag 242. Kaggefos 18. Kaggeholm 344. Kaholmen 37. Kaldafjeld 78. Kaldvatn 169. 173. Kalken 204. Kallevaag 166. Kallsjii 220. Kallskraafjeld 194.’ Kallviken 370. Kalmar 386. Kalmarsund 386. Kalstad 205. Kalurdal 163. Kalvaahggda 136. Kalvedal 75. Kamajock 371. Kammerherre (Jotun- heim) 150. Kamnassfjeld 247. Kampeswter 127. Kamphamrene 162. 188. Kampsaeter 128. Kapellbackar 287. Karasjok 268. Karasjokka 268. Karesuando 270. Karlberg 341. Karl-Johansvazrn 37. Karlebotn 265. Karlsborg (Lake Vettern) 291 —— (near Siiderko'ping) 300 Karlsby 302. Karlsgraben 297. Karlsgraf 288. Karlshamm 379. Karlskoga 307. Karlskron'a 386. Karlsfl 250. Karlstiar 378. Karlstad 307. Karlsten 280. Karmfl 50. Karmsund 51. Karpalnnd 380. Karsjii 366. Kasa 92. Kasberg 276. Kasfjord 245. Kaskats 371. Kaste, Gaard 185. Kastelbakke 14. Kasti 28. Kastnaeshavn 245. Katrineholm 276. 292. Kattegat 385. Kaupanger 108. Kautokeino 269. Kaallevasheia 28. 29. Kallviken 359. Karfsta. 368. Karingsberget 364. Karnan 384. Karrgrufvan 310. Keilhaustop 146. Keiseren, Pass 153. Kengis Bruk 271. Kersd 343. Ketkisuando 270. Kexisvara 271. Kiberg 264. Kihlangi 271. Kil 306. 360. Kilafors 365. 368. Kile (Kilefjord) 41. — (Voldenfjord) 169. Kilefjord 41. — (Sendmere) 169. Kilefos 107. Kilen, Gaard 101. Killeberg 380. Killej 378. Kilsberg 291. Kilsboten 107. Kilsbrekkevatn 168. KiISmO 291. ' Kinda Canal 303. Kinnekulle 290. Kinnerodden 261. Kinservik 62. Kirke (Jotunheim) 143. Kirkebfl (Hemsedal) 81. - (Hvidesjo) 34. — (Sognefjord) 111. Kirkeglup 143. 158. Kirkelandet 170. Kirkemo 246. 247. Kirkenses (Hardanger- fjord) 62. - (Syd-Varanger) 267. Kirkenkjerne 158. Kirkestgl 93. Kirkestuen 11’7. Kirkesund 279. Kirkevaag 242. Kirkg' 278. Kirkvold, Gaard 94. Kistebunuten 28. Kistrand 260. Kitilsrud 15. Kittis 271. Kivik 392. aélatind 28. aelavand 28. aernhultind 128. serringen 167. serringfl 244. serringselv 163. serringvik 219. cameras 236. ledelen 146. eipen 110. EFHEEPWEF .PF elda 83. eldhaug 54. relkenaes 166. elland, Gaard 58. ellandselv 58. elling 235. elstad 183. elstadlid 183. elvik 259. endalsbrae 190. endalselv 190. endalskona 189. 190. es 243. eringtind 229. ernfjeld 231. os 182. osbunden 182. osenfjord 250. ostinder 250. 251. sbenhavn, see Copen- hagen. jedepollen 168. flfjord 266. eivingfjeld 22.~ elaas 172. fllberg 81. albergelv 273. glen 120. gllefjord 261. endalsfos 64. .ensaas 25. ensberg 250. 'esnaesfjord 179. 180. laaven 191. PNCWGWPWPWPWGWPNFNPQ 5.78.855“ fix-34.715.85.65.“ expanse Klarasjti 340. Klarelf 288. 307. 360. etc. Klamman 300. Klefva 290. Klengfeld 204. Klenshyttan 360. Kleppen 27. Kleve 197. Kleven (Hemsedal) 8’). —— (Mandal) 43. Klevene (Rundal) 59. .Klingen 220. ‘tKlinkenberg 117. Klintehamm 378. Klippan 383. Klockgropsbacke 364. Klopkjeern 17. Klosterelv 267. Klosterfjord (Hardanger- fjord) 52. —— (Syd-Varanger) 267. Klosterfos 33. Klostret 290. Kloten 309. Kloveland 27. Klgf‘ten 113. Klavbaklier 156. 408 INDEX. Klgve (Vossestranden) 1 Klgven (Solbergfj0rd)246. Klgvgaard 220. Klubbefjeld 265. Klgubben (Finmarken) 61. —- (Jostedal) 104. -— (Miilaren) 343. Klubmes 265. Klungenaes 196. Klypenaasi 159. Kniigten 391. Knifsta 350. Knivebakkesazter 101. Knivselv~ . Knivsflaa. 183. Knivskjaer-Odden 258. Knivsflaafossene 183. Kngskanaes 258. Knudsdal 182. Knutshul 137. Knutshultstinder 141.137. 128. Kobberberg-Elv 21. Kobberdal 230. Kobbervik 51. 86. Kobberviksdal 31. Kobberyggen 247. Kochenhus 385. Kokkerstuen 88. Koksaren 198. Koksvik 201. Kolarelv 105. Kolartop 105. Kolbiick 310. 361. Kolbéicksfi. 361. Kolbotten 348. Koldedalstinder 136. 139 Koldedalsvand 155. Koldedzla 98. 139. 154. Kolmfirden 305. Kolna-ase 103. Kolsaaa 14. 37. Kolnaasi 160. Kolsnaren 292. Kigg Kristian II.‘s Hul Kongensvold 200. Kongsbacka. 284. Kongsberg 19. Kongsdalsnaasi 157. Kongstjord 262. Kongsgrav 230. Kongshavn 12. Kongshavntjeld 253. Kongslid, Gaard 247. Kongsmo 227 . Kongsfler 262. Kongstrgm 85. Kongsvinger 272. Kongsvold 203. Konnehorn 174. Koiin 280. Kopangstind 251. Kopervik 50. Koppang 207. Kopparberg 309. Kopparklint 287. Kornsfl 277. Kornstad 171. Kornvog 171. Korpikula. 372. Korsberga 289. Korsdal 56. Korsen 219. K%lé8fj01'd (near Bergen) — (8yd-Varanger) 266. Korsnéi-s (near Falun) 359. Korsnees (near Bergen) 5 . — (Tysfjord) 245. Korsgdegaard 206. Kost-hveit 23. 27. Koupa-ng 32. Kiilsjon 309. Kiiping 309. Kiipingsfi 310. Kiipmannabro 276. 360. Kraakmo 243. Kraakmotind 243. Kra-akstad 205. Kragerfl 38. Krapperup 385. Kravik. Gaard 24. Kravikfjord 24. Kraekjaheia 83. Kréekjat‘jern 83. Kraekjavand, Store and Vesle 38. Kraemmermoen 86. Krekling 19. Krigsberg 299. Kringelen (Gudbrands- dal) 11 '. Kringeln (Dalsfjord) 165. Kringlegd 28. . Kristiania, etc., see Chris- tiania. Kristineberg 364. 392. Krogegg 106. Krmgene 52. Krogkleven 14. Krogskog 14. Krogsund 14. Krogsvaagen 219. Krokan 23. Krciléen (near Saveien) — (Jostedal) 104. -—— (Jerntland) 367. -— (Gaard. on the Lyster- fjord) 100. _ Krokhaug 203. 207. >Krokom 367. Krona 18. Krondal (Hardanger- fjord) 56. — (Jostedal) 104. Kronoberg, Castle 386. Kronobergsléin 385. Kronsbrae 189. 190. Krosfjaeren 59. Krosnaes 62. Krgderen 79. —, Lake 79. Kriin, Lake 303. Krtisekulle 289. Krusenberg 353. Krylbo 365. Kukkola 372. Kulfjord 257. Kullagfird 385. Kulla. Gunnarstorp 384. Kullaberg 284. Kullen, Promontory Kullsveden 365. Kummelnéts 347. Kungséingen 311. 351. Kungsbro 299 Kungsgrotta 286. Kungshamm 348. 353. Kungshatt 344. Kungshégarne 357. Kungsiir 309. 348. Kunnen, Promontory 2 . Kunstgfirden 359. Kungs—Norrby 299. Kupenaava. 180. Kuskreia 34. Kuttainen 270. Kvaal 210. Kva-le 91. Kvalehflgda 90. 91. Kvalenaes 63. Kvalfl 247. 250. 253. Kvalsund 253. 260. Kvalvig 241. —— (Hifjordsvand) 60. -— (Snaasenvand) 220. — (Sogndal) 101. —— (Vangsmjgsen) 91. Kvama. 95. Kvamengs 92. Kvamfjeld 191. Kvamsfos 60. Kvamshest 166. 177. Kvamsklev 91. Kvandal 190. Kvandalsfjeld 178. Kvannefos 89. Kvaru, Indre 232. Kvarven 53. Kvashoved 58. Kvaefoa 158, Kvam (Gudbrandsdal)118. INDEX. 409 Kvserneelv 102. Kvaernhusfjeld 189. Kvenangfjord 252. Kvenangstinder 252. Kvernaesfjord 171. Kvikne 118. 208. Kvindherred 55. Kvindherredfjord 53. Kvinesdal 44. Kvisberg 116. Kvistadal 172. Kviteggen 175. Kvitingen 56. Kvitingskjfllen 145. Kvitkua 198. Kvitnaa 63. Kvitnzes 242. Kvittsle 220. Kvitvaselvdal 231. Kviven 182. Laagen 115. 19. 24. 25. etc. Labrofos 20. Lade 218. Ladegaardsc 11. Ladnijavre 269. Ladvik 112. Lagaz‘in 284. Lagmansholm 289. Lagtjsern 24. Laholm 284. Lairofjeld 236. Lakaadal 229. Laksevaag 75. Lakvik 303. Lallarfvet 362. Lamhult 379. Land 88. Landegode 234. 244. Landskrona 392. . Landsvaerk i Sauland 26. Langaarsund 38. Langbrekken 184. Langdal (Geirangerfjord) 1 8 . Langedal (Aardalsvand) 98 — (near Bergen) 76. —- (Bygdin) 136. Langedalselv 137. Langedals-Saeter 136. Langedalstjern 136. Langefjeld 183. Langefondsaeter 23. Langeidvand 28. Langenfjord 252. Langeland (Sondfjord) 165. 178. Langelandsvand 178. Langenaes 243. Langesaeter (nearFaleide) 182. Langesjc 25. Langestrand 32. Langeskavl 138. Langesund 38. Langesunds Fjord 38. Langesundsfyr 38 Langesunds Kreppa 38. Langevaag 51. Langfjeld 169. Langfjord (Moldefjord) 198. 196. 197. —- (Tanafjord) 262. Langflaafjeld 183. Langglupdal 207. Langhammer 220. Langholm 343. Langlete 209. Langlo-Stranden 185. Langnais 251. Lango (near Kragero) 38. —— (Vesteraalen) 242. 243. Langsandmo 237. Langskibso 186. Langvand (Opdal) 25. —— (Jotunheim) 143. -— (Sulitjelma) 236. — (Svartisen) 230. Laphullet 230. Larslund 349. Larvik, see Laurvik. Laudalstinder 181. Laugen, see Laagen. Lauparen 194. 113531511131 (Bandaksvand) —— (Sflndmo're) 168. Laurgaard 119. Laurvik 32. Laurviksfjord 32. Lauva 145. Lauvho 145. Laxi’t 291. 307. Laxefjord 261. Laxelvens Kappel 260. Laxen, Lake 276. Laxevaag 75. Laxholm 304. Lsegdeelv 106. Lasra 93. 95. Laerdal 94. Lserdalselv 82. Lserdalsoren 95. Lsereim 196. Leangen 218. Lebesby 261. Lecke' 227. Lee 276. 277. Lee, Lakes 276. Leebotten 262. Leelfingen, Lake 276. Leerfjord 244. Leerskardal 229, Leikanger 109, Leines 244. , Leinesfjord 243. Leira (Hardanger) 83. -— Jotunheim) 148. Leiraas 158. Leirdal 145. 158. Leiren, see Kongsvinger. Leirhfl 144. Leirmo 102. Leirmohovd 102. Leirungsbrae 136. Leirungsdal, B'vre 128. Leirungselv 128. Leirungsvand 128. Leirvand 157. Lejonkiillan 278. Leka-nger 109. 167. Leknses 173. Leknsesnakken 173. Leksand 363. Lekve 59. Lemeggen 105. Lenna 357. Lennartsfors 276. Lennartsnas 351. Lepso 52. Ler 210. Lerbrovik 195. Lerelv 271. Lerfos, Lille and Store 217 Lerjordfald 237. Lerum 289. Lervik (Hardangerfjord) 52 -— (Sognefjord) 112. Lesjekirke 121. Lesjeskogen 121. Lesjeskogen-Vand 121. Lesjevand 121. Lesjeverk 121. Letsjii 366. Leufsta 358. Levanger 219. Lexviken 219. Liabrae 159. Liabygd 185. Liadalshorn 172. Lian 273. ' Liasaeter 197. Liatorp 380. Liavand 162. Liaxlen 103. 104. Libygfjeld 36. Lid, Gaard 120. --, Nedre 103. Lidan 290. Liden 369. Lidingii 347. Lidktiping 290. Lidland 243. Lien 115. Liar 15. 410 INDEX. Lierdal 15. Lifjeld (Siljordsvand) 27. -— (Slyngsfjord) 185. Ligga 371. Lihest 112. Likkafjeld 247. Likkavarre 247. Liljeholmen 292. Liljesta 300. Lilla Edet 287. -— Essingen 343. -— Vartan 347. Lille Elvdal 208. - Feerder 38. Finkirke 261. Best 178. Lerfos 217. Mauket 247. Rjukanfos 35. —— Toren 169. Lilledal (Halsefjord) 171. — (Sundalsfjord) 204. Lilledalsegg 182. Lilledalshorn 172. Lillefjeld 125. Lillehammer 115. Lillehest 178. Lillehorn 172. Lillesand 39. Lilleskaardalstinder 172. Lilleskog 288. Lillestremmen 113. 271. Lilletun 60. Limfivik 364. Linajtekna 237. Lindas 386. Linde 309. Lindebreekke 58. Lindefors 284. Lindesnaes, Cape 44. Lindfors 360. Lindneesc 227. Lindti (Lake Vettern) 291. Linda (near Christiania) 37 Lindsheim 161. Lindvik, Gaard 63. -— (Opstrynvand) 387. Lingbo 385. Linge 185. Linghem 303. Lingsfos 158. 159. Linheia 86. Linkiiping 302. Listad 118. Lister 44. Listelsbrae 103. Lithen, Lake 367. Liverud 25. Ljabro 12. Ljeen 184. Ljeenbakker 184. LJung 289. 299. Ljungfi. 366. Ljungby 379. Ljunge-Elf 368. Ljusdal 366. Ljusneelf 366. 368. Ljusne 365. Ljusterii 347. Lodalsbrec 104. Lodalskaupe104. 162. 189. Loen 189. Loendal 189. Loenvand 189. Lofald 177. Lofjeld 189. Lofoden Islands 238. Lofos 91. Lofotodden 241. Lofotveeg 238. L0f5 343. Loftenees, Gaard 101. Loftesnaes 107. Loftet 158. Lofthus 62. Lofvene 290. Logenelv 48. Loksund 52. Lom 129. 123. Lomen 90. Lomijaur 236. Lomseggen 147. 128. 129. Lomshorung 122. 161. Lone 75. Longedal 109. Loppen 252. Lora-Ely 121. 122. Lorafjeld 122. Losna, Lake 117. Lotefos 65. Lotevand 65. Lougen, see Laagen. Lovardalsskard 98. Lovunden 232. Lcbsaasen 234. Lcding 235. Lgdingen 243. 245. Lgdingsaxelen 243. L5d5se 289. Lijfholmen 292. Lofsta 358. Liifvestad 392. Legs 252. Leiten 206. Lakedal 57. Lakelandshesten 165. 178. Lflken 91. Lgkenfos 190. Lskkens Kobberv. 205. Lekten 230. Lcnazs, Gaard 236. Lonehorjen 77. Lenesdal 231. Lenevand 77. Lersnaas 252. Lastegaard 80. Lestsaeter 98. Lgveid 33. Lgvnaasi 160. Lcvstakken 68. 74. Ludvika 360. Lukastorp 290. Lulefi. 370. Lule—Elf 370. 371. Lule-Jaur, Stora 381. Lummelund Trask 373. — (Folgenfjord) 227. -— (Jemtland) 367. —- (near Skara) 290. Lundarvand 77. Lundby 310. —— (near Faleide) 187 ——, Glacier of 179. Lundebygd 178. Lundefaret 34. Lundemo 210. Lunden, Gaard 109. Lunderdal 161. Lundevand 44. Lund-Lien 367. Lundo 244. Lundsgrenen 378. Lurfl 232. Lusahougene 156. Lussaeter 127. Lyckeby 386. Lyckebyfi 386. Lyderhorn 53. 68. 75. Lygren 112. Lykkja. 80. Lyngdal 44. Lyngdalselv 44. Lyngen 251. 247. Lyngenfjord (near Tromsc) 251. —- (near Namsos) 220. Lyngholmen 51.. ' Lyngsda-l 251. Lyngseid 251. Lyngstuen 251. Lysaker 14. yse 48. Lysefjord 41. 46. Lysekam 48. Lysekil 279. Lysfl 52. Lysterfjord 99. Lysurnaebbet 183. Haabe 60. Maabfldal 60. Maabagalder 61. Maabevand 61. Lummelunds Grotta 378. Lund (near Malmij) 381. Lundc (Thelemarken) 34. Lungegaardsvand 68. 75. Lysthus i Hitterdal 164. INDEX. 411 Maage 63. Maalnaes 139. Maalselvsdal 246. Maalsnaes 246. Maan-Elv 23. Maaren 111. Maasa 257. Maassund 257. 258. Madevarre 265. Madvik 183. Magalaupet 203. Magdajoktind 231. Magerg 257. Ma gnor 272. Matorna 281. Matvand, Store 221. Mala-ngenfjord 246. Malde 46. Malmagrgnsnaaven 78. Malmangernut 54. 55. Malmo 219. Malmii (Sk§ne) 388. —- (island) 279. Malmg (N0rw.) 43. Malmtihus 389. Malmvik 344.. Malstrgm 241. Malvik 218. Manda] 43. Mandalselv 43. Mandseid 167. 168. Mansberge 98. Mantorp 302. Maradale 152. Maradalsbrae 152. Maradalsfos 199. Maradalssaeter 99. Maradalstinder 160. Mardala 199. Mardglafos 199. Maren, Lake 301. Margretehill 359. Marianelund 388. Maridalsvand 12. Marieberg 340. Mariedam 302. Mariefred 344. Mariehof 300. Marieholm 392. Marielund 357. Marielyst 384. Marienborg 218. Mariestad 291. Marifiaaren 100. Maristuen 93. Marks. Kyrka 289. Mar‘; 166. Marshydna 188. Marstenfyr 52. Marstrand 279. Martedal 101. Masi 269. 'Matarengi 271. 372. ‘ Matfors 368. Mattis Udden 371. Matt-mar 367. Maurangerfjord 55. Maursaet 25. 82. 83. Maurstadeid 166. Maursund 251. Mauvat-n 58. Mauvatnseeter 58. Malaren, Lake 316. 342. etc. Meele 23. Miilen (in Sweden) 220. M wlen (Lyngenfjord) 247. Maelkevold 191. Meelkevoldsbrae 191. Mallby 380. Miinnikfi-Koski 267. Maeraak 184. Maere 219. MiirS’ta. 350. Maeskefjord 265. Maeskehoug 265. Mfikeberge 295. Mfiklappen 391. Mailaskog 379. Mfiskiirs-Fyr 279. Medelpad 366. Medelplana 290. Medevi 297. Medheia 21. Medtes 87. Mehavn 262. Mehus 61. Meienfjeld 42. Meisen 109. Melaanfos 57. Meland 187. Melbo 242. Meldalen 205. Melderskin 54. 55. Melfjord 233. Melheimsnibben 189. Melhus (near Thrond- hjem) 210. —— (Gaard, in the Flaams- dal) 106. Melhus-Sfeter 106. Meling, Gaard 46. Melkedal 151. Melkedalsband 152. Melkedalsbrae 138. Melkedalspigge 138. Melkedalstind 141. 152. 157 Melkedalsvand 151. 152. Melkedflla 138. 151. Melkehullerne 151. Mall 111. Mellan-Fryken 306. Mellansjti Mellem-Vigten 227. Mellene 134. Mellerud 277. 360. Mellijsa 349. Mela 233. Melsfiker 345. Melsdal 55. Mem 300. Memurubod 131. 141. 142. ' Memurudal 142. Memuruelv 131. Memurutind 144. Memurutunge 140. Meraker 218. Meringdal 199. Meringdalsnaebbet 198. Merkdal 237. Mel-0k. see Maeraak. Messetind 245. Mesna 115. 116. Middagsberg 106. Middagshaugen (Aardal) 97 -— (Romsdal) 124. Middagshorn 174. Midneeshamer 98. Midtdalslgifti 159. Midtdiirrnstene 29. Midtet 198. Midtfjeld 28. Midt-Garthus 86. Midtlaegersaeter 30. Midtmaradal 99. Midtmaradalsbrae 99. Midtsaeter 55. Midtstalshydna 188. Midtunbro 76. Miefi. 379. Mikalshule 34. Minne 114. 206. Minnesund 206. Mirebfl ‘125. Misfjord 186. Misvaerfjord 236. Mjell 111. 178. Mjtilby 302. Mjandalen 17. Mjtjrn, Lake 289. Mjflsen, Lake 114. 206. Mjesstrand 23. Mjasvand 23. M0 (Ranenfjord) 230. —- (Suledalsvand) 48. 42. -— (Thelemarken) 42. Modum 18. Moen (Aardal) 98. -—— (Gudbrandsdal) 119. ——- (Lysterfjord) 101. -— (Maalselvsdal) 247. — (i Siljord) 27. — (near Sulitjelma) 236. —- (V attenbygden) 236. Mofalla 289. 412 INDEX . Mogelifos 66. Mogelinut 66. Mogen i Hflidalsmo 27. —— (Mjflsvand) 24. Moheda 379. Moholm 291. Mokéirnshyttan 360. Moland 35. 41. Molandssaeter 36. Molaup, Fjeld. 173. —-, Gaard 48. Moldaelv 106. Molde 192. Moldefjord 168. 194.197. -— (near Stadtland) 168. Moldegaard 193. Moldehei 193. Molden (Lysterfjord) 100. Moldestad 181. Moldjord, Gaard 235. Molde’ 166. Molkom 360. Mollajok 254. Mollesje'kstue 268. Mollfisund 279. Molt-a 242. Molvik 262. Mon 277. Monge, Gaa-rd 125. Mongefos 125. Mongjel Q'degaard 146. Mongejuret 125. Monsastue 79. Monsbuheia 83. Monsnuten 83. Mora 364. Morastenar or Mora Stones 350. Morgedal 27. Morgongfifva 364. Mork 162. Morka Koldedal 154. Morkadflla 99. Morkaelv 154. Morkollen 86. Mormorsgrufvan 303. Morshyttan 365. llIortas 270. Mortensnaes 265. Morupstfinges Fyr 284. Mosakselen 229. Mosby 40. Mosebfl 26. Mosjaen 228. 229. Moskenaes 241. Moskenaesn‘ 241. Moskenstrflm 241. Moss 37. 273. Mossesund 273. Mostadhaug 178. Mosterhavn 52. Mostera 50. 52. HOME %7. 3020 Motalastriim 294. 297. Motala Verkstad 298. Motet 87. Movatten 179. Méckeln, Lake 307. Mtickleby 387. Moen (Danish island) 391. Mflgeletun 60. M5116 385 Mflllen 75. Mflllendal 74. Mgllerholm 15. Miilltorp 291. Melmen 121. -—, Saeter 122. Mtilnbacka 360. M6lnbo 292. Mgraftasnibba 175. Mfirby 34.7. Mflrk 188. Mgrkadalselv 77. Merkedal 81. 167. Miirkeklef 290. Mgrkereid 101. Markereidsdal 101. Mgrkesvikfjord 244. Miirkij 300. Mflrkvanddal 81. Miirrumsfi 379. Miirsill 367. Mgrstafjord 134. Miirviken 367. Mgsadlen 242. M5sseberg 289. Muggedalselv 86. Mugnatind 134. Muldal 185. Muldalsfos 185. Mule i Vinje 27. Mulelv 74. Mullskriierna 296. Mulskeddal 183. Mulsvorhorn 182. Mundal 110. Munkaune 217. Munkeg 110. Munkelv 266. Munken 296. Munkevoldsfjeld 204. Munkholm 217. Munksjii 293. Munktor 310. Munsii . Muonioelf 270. Muoniokoski 270. Muonioniska 270. Muoniovara. 270. Muran-Szeter 157. Muru Loner 127. Musken 243. Muskii 348. Mustad 115. Musubyttsaeter 162. Mususarter 207. Myklandsdal 180. Myklemyr 103. Myklethveiten 76. Myrdalsfos 55. Myrdalsvand 55. Myrestfllen 83. Myrhorn 104. Myten 103. Naae 63. Naalene (Naerodal) 107. Naaverszeter 130. 145. Nacka. 342. __ Nadden, Nedre and Ofr 361 Nadviken 95. Naglfiren 101. Nakfjeld 250. Nakkerud 18. ‘Namsdal 220. Namsdalseid 220. Namsenelv 220. 221. Namsenfjord 220. 227. Namsos 220. 227. Napstrflm 241. Naustdal 165. 166. Nautefos 107. Navlefos 30. Nétcken, Lake 305. Niilden 367. Naldsja 367. Naerbfl 45. Naem 227. Naergdal 107. Naergdalselv 107. Naergfjord 106. Naerznaes 105. Naerstrand 48. 49. Naes (near Aarnaes) 272. -— (Atnedal) 207. -- (Byglandsfijord) 41. —- (Hallingdal) 80. — (Lake Krgderen) 79. -— (near Levanger) 220. — (Lysterfjord) 101. - (Mjflsen) 115. -— (N aesdal) 190. - (Romsdal) 126. 195. -— (Spirillen) 85. - (Suledalsvand) 42. -— (near Upsala) 353. Nisbo 295. Naesbz 84. Naesbgdal 84. Myklebostad180. 198.244. Nautgaardstind 127. 131. INDEX. 413 Nseselv 90. Naesfjeld 194. Naesheimshorjen 77. Naesland 36. Naesmoen 85. Nasnaren 292. Naesodden 273. Naesoddtangen 37. Naesseby 265. Naesset 197. 198. Nassjii 301. Nassundet 307 . Nsesviken 366. Nseverstod 229. Nebbedal 175. 183. Nedansjii 368. Nederberg 168. Neder-Kalix 372. Nedreaal 83. Nedrebodal 179. Nedre Fryken 306. - Jerfva 342. -— Lid 103. - Nadden 361. —— Saster 136. —- Sulheimsaeter 131.144. — Vand (Salangen) 247. — — (Vattenbygden)236. — Vasenden (Gravens- vand) 77. -- — (Jolstervand) 179. —— Vekset 220. Nedstryn 187. Nedsttun 76. Neergaard (Maalselvsdal) 247 - (Thelcmarken) 35. Neidenelv 266. Neidenfjord 266. Nelhammar 304. Nelougvand 39. Neraal 82. 83. Nerike 291. Nese 111. Neslenibben 191. Nestbo see Naesbo. Nesthammer, Gaard 57. Netland 56. Nettosseter 148. Neverfjeld 117. Niavi 371. Nidarnses 212. Nidelv (near Arendal) 38. (near Throndhjem) 210. 211. Niemis 372. Nigard 104. Nigardsbrse 104. Nikkeby 252. Nipahflgd 59. Nissafi. 284. Nissedal 35. _ Nissedalselv 107. Nisservand 35. Njalavarre 251. Njoammel Guoika 267. Njiimmelsaska 371. Njuken 109. Njungis 237. Noachs Ark 388. Nockeby 351. Nokkenebfjeld 183. Nondal 98. Nondalsfos 98. Nonhaug 108. Norélci’augen (Jotunheim) 1 Nonsfjeld 184. Nonsfos 192. Nonshorn 174. Nonsnibba 190. Nora 307. 309. Noradal 277. Norangsdal 174. Norangsfjord 173. Norbotten 370. Nordaasvand 76. Nordalsfijord (Sendfjord) 166 Nordbjergskirke 162. Norddal 168. Norddalsfj 0rd (Storfjord) 184 Norddalskirke 184. Norderhov 14. Nordfjord (Malangen)246. -— (Melfjord) 233. - (N. Bergenhus) 166. — (Storfjord) 186. Nordfjordbrae 162. 164. Nordfjordeid 166. Nordfolden 244. Nord-Horland 165. Nordkjos 247. Nordkosters Dubbelfyr 278. Nordkyn 261. ‘ Ncégiland, the Norwegian -—, the Swedish‘367. Nordlandet (near Chris- tiansund) 170. Nordmaling 369. Nordmalingsfjord 369. Nordmandslaagen 24. Nordmore 170. Nordnaes (near Bergen) 73 —- (Sognefjord) 109. Nord-Pollen 55. Nordre-Aurdal 90. — Garthus 86. Jacobselv 265. Land 89. Skjerve 219. Snerle 118. llll Nordsaetre 130. Nordsjfl 33. Nordvik 194. 196 Nore 24. Norefjeld 79. Noretjord (Numedal) 24. — (Sognefjord) 109. Noresund 289. Norevikheien 112. 177. Norheimsund 56. Nornenelv 208. Norra Barken 361. — Fryken 306. — Motet 388. Norrfi. 365. Norrharke 361. Norrbotten 370. Norrbystriim 361. Norrkiiping 304. Norrland 367. Norrtelge 347. Norrviken 350. Norself 306. Norsholm 3(1). 303. North Cape 258. Northorp 134. Notodden 21. Norstebo 25. Ngrstedalssseter 159. Ngrstevold 1.17., Nosetsseter 84. Nostdal 166. Noste 198. Ncsteaxlen 198. Nostet 75. Nmers 32. Nubgaarden i Torpe 82. Numedal 24. Numedalslaagen 24. Nuppivarre 253. 269. Nups-Egg 29. Nupsfos 29. Nupshaug 149. Nute (Sognefjord) 108. Nyasto'lsfos 62. Ny-Aune 204. Nyboda-Tunnel 292. Nyborgtoégaranger) 265. Nybussetre 25. Nybusjo 25. Ny-Hellesund 40. Nyhgitind 199. Nyhyttan 307. Nylgirke (Drammenselv) 1 . — (near Holmestrand) 31. Nyktiping 349. Nykroppa 307. Nyliend 28. Nylaénd (Tveitvand) 23. ' '— (Angermanelf) 369. 414 INDEX. Ny-Bvne 204. Nypen 210. Nypladsen 209. Nyqvarn 303. Nysaeter (D ovrefj eld) 202. Nysaater (Gudbrandsdal) 122. —— (Vuluvand) 163. Nystuen (Fillefjeld) 92. —— (firkedal) 204. Ockelbo 365. Ocksjti 367. Odde 64. Oddernees 40. Odensjii 381. Odinshiig 357. Odnaes 88. Oferdal 97. Ofi‘erkallan 380. Ofotenfjord 243. Oftedal 95. Oisaeter 104. Ofvanmyran 364. Oklevig 100. Okna 304. Oksenc 186. Oksfjord 229. St. Olaf’s Bad 18. St. Olafsbro 220. Olafsbuvand 83. St. Olafsgryder 18. St. Olafskilde 100. St. Olafs Slange 184. St. Olafs Snushorn 184. St. Olafs-Stol 194. Oldendal 191. Oldenskar 180. 191. Oldenvand 191. Oldernaes 220. Oldaren 190. Olestad 116. Olidehfilan 287. Olivehall 346. Olmajalos 234. Olmheim 109. Olsborg 247. Olsnasvik 364. Olstappen Lake 127. Omberg 295. Omgang 262. Omlid 41. Omnese 233. Ona 170. Onen 58. Ousfl 273. Onstad 89. Opdal (Drivadal) 204. -- (Laerdal) 95. -- (Numedal) 25. -— (Valders) 92. Opdalselv 24. Opdalstflle 139. Opdel 171. Opheim 64. —— (Oldenvand) 191. Opheimsfjeld 182. 188. Opheimskirke 78. Opheimsvand 77. Ophus 207. Oplaendske Dal 164. Opmannasjfi 380. Opnan, Lake 258. Oppedal 63. Oppegaard 273. Opstegene 98. Opstol 106. Opstryn 188. Opstrynvand 187. Optun 150. Oravatten 196. Orddo—Vuodna 262. Orken 179. Orkla. 204. Orkladal 208. Ormberg 103. Ormbergstel 101. Orm Eggen 28. Ormefald 30. Ormeim 124. Ormsund 273- Ornas 361. Orno' 348. Oroust 279. Orresta 310. Orraielv 100. Orrskog 358. Orreielv 100. Orsjii 366. Ortnevik 111. Os (near Bergen) 52. —— (near Raros) 208. Oséagr den Andens Kapel 7 Oscarsborg 37. Oscarshall 11. Oscarshoug 150. Ose (Osefjord) 59. 106. —— (Saetersdal) 41. Osedal 59. Osefjord 58. 59. 106. Osen (Osefjord) 58. —- (Sflndfjord) 165. Oseswter 59. Oseskavl 59. Oskarshamn 388. Oslo 3. Osmark 197. Osmundsvaag 167. Osterdalsbree 189. Osterfjord 76. Ostera 76. Ostervik 363. Osvand 197. Oterdal 182. Ottadal 122. 128. Ottaelv 119. 161. 162. Ottavand 129. 161. Ottebol 306. Otteraa 39. 40. Otterbacken 307. Otters (near Christian- Sand) 40. -— (near Molde) 170. —— (near Namsos 227. Ottestad 206.~ Oulie-Elv 32. Ousby 380. Ousbyholm 381. Ovabergsdal 150. Ovalbergselv 159. Overaas 198. Overgaard 220. Overhalden 227. Oviksfjellen 366. Ovnen 263. Oxdalhe 140. Oxefos 129. 130. 145. Oxeliisund 300. 350. Oxen 57. 58. — (Romsdalsfjord) 194. Oxo (near Christiansand) Q'degaard 171. 195. Ofre Fryken 264. - Holn 276. -- Nadden 361. Qftshus-Fos 56. Ofvedskloster 392. Ofver Tornefi 271. Ofverum 304. .9'hellesund 242. Q'iangen, Lake 134. Hiangenshsi 134. Q'iangense 91. Qibergsfos 162. Q'itggNorangsfjord) 173. 1 - (Lierdal) 95. .O'ieren, Lake 271. Hierhavn 55. “Hiestad 41. .O'ifjord 60. Bifjordstjeld 60. Q'ifjordsvand 60. .Gigaard 95. .Gje-Saeter 84. Hilo 91. .Ginesgavlen 236. flistenvatten 29. Q'ksendalen 171. Q'ksfjord 252. Oland 387. .O'len 49. 52. B'lfarnees 50. Q'lken 90. Olme 307 . Orbyhus 358. INDEX . 415 .Q're 171. Qrebro 308. ()regrund 347. Hreland 226. Qrenaes 188. Oresund 384. Q'rkedal 201. Q'rkedalsflren 201. 205. O_rnsk6ldsvik 369. ()rsj5 386. firsjfl 277. Q’rskog 185. Urskogdal 185. 186. Brsten 172. firstendal 172. firstenfjord 169. 172. Q'rstenvik 172. 169. firsvaag 242. .Qrterenvand 83. Ortofta 381. Q'rvsella 22. Qstad 279. Qstanfi 347. Ustanfors 362. Cstavall 366. .Gsten, Lake 291. Hstensg 56. .Q'steraat 217. Qsterang 290. ()sterby 358. ,G'sgterdalen 206. 272. 74. Q'sterfjord 229. Qstergtitland 302. Osterplana 290. Osterriidshfilan 278. Q'ster-Riseer 38. Qstersund 366. ()ster-Tibble 348. Q'stervaagen 45. Osthammar 347. Q’stnafjeld 34. Qstnaes 170. Ostrabo 386. .Ustre Hegge 220. .O'stre Pollen 55. Hstre Slidre 136. Q'stre Slidre Elv 134. Ost-Surasj5 361. Hstvaaga 241. .Gstvik 220. .Gverberg 168. B'verby 247. .Gverste-Dal 109. .Gvrebodal 179. .Gvrebzsaeter 145. .G'vre Eide 187. Hvregaard 103. vrehus 55. Hvre Seim 57. —— Strandefjord 83. —- Vand 236. Q'vre Vasenden (Gravens- vand) 77. —— - (Jalst-ervand) 179. fixendalselv 166 Q'xna 207. Oxnered 287. Q’xtinder 229. fly 35'; .9’ ye 91. fiygaarden 25. Paddeby 265. Palajokko 270. Paradisbakker 17. Parki-Jaur 371. Partilled 2189. Pasvik 267. Pasvikelv 267. Paternoster-Skaren 279. Paulsvand 180. Pakila 272. Pfilsboda 291. Peisen, Kloster 267. Pello 271. Persberg 307. 360. Pilgrimst-ad 366. 369. Pingisjarvi 269. Pipertind 251. Pitea'). 370. Pjeskajaur 237. Polfos 163. Polhems Sluss 286. Pollen 251. Polvand 162. Perla 291. 307 . Porsangerfjord 259. Porsangsnaes 260. Porsgrund 33. Porsi Falls 371. Porten (Suledalsvand) 48. Praestebakke 277. Praestedal 181. Preestegaards-Saeter 27. Praestekampen 117. Praesthus (Soknedal) 205- Praestg 165. Predikstol 296. 363. Preste 178. - Prestesaeter 148. Prestesteinvand 150. Prestfors 361. Prins Oscars Udsigt 17. Pruglaa 231. Pruglheibro 231. Puddefjord 68. 75. Pukii 291. Purki-Jaur 371. Qvarnfi 367. Qvickjock 371. Qvicksund 348. Qvidinge 383. Qvistrum 279. Baa 245. Raade 273. Raadfjeld 181. Raaen, Gaard 82. Raamand 173. Raamandsgjgl 173. Raastad 32. Rafsbotn 253. Raftelandet 266. Raftsund 242. St. Ragnhilds Kalla 300 Rago-N'arga 262. Rake 1 2. 188. Rambaaren 110. 111. Ramfjord 171. Ramliisa 384. Ramlijsabrunn 384. Rammelklz‘iva. 279. Ramnas 361. Ramsaa 243. Ramsjd 366. Ramsfl 227. Ramstad 185. Ramstadhorn 185. Ramundershall 300. Randal 231. Randeberg 50. Randi—Jam‘ 371. Randkltiveskaaret 391. Randselv 18. Randsfjord 88. Randsvserk 127. Ranenfjord 230. Rangaatind 199. Rangsundg 233. Ranheim 218. Rankhytt-an 361. Ransater 307. Ratan 370. Rativasoaivve 250. Rattvik 364. Rauberg 34. Raubergsholten 102. Raubergsstul 146. Rauddal 141. Rauddalselv 141. Rauddalshoug 141. Rauddalsmund 141. Rauddalstinder 141. 152. Raudnaes 98. Rauegg 107 . Raufjord 135. Rauland 23. 27. Raulandsfjeld 23. Rauma 121. 123. Rausdalssaeter 101. Rauskjaldvand 150. Ravnedal 40. Ravnedjgget, or Ravne- juvet . Ravnefjeld 189. Racksta 345. 416 INDEX . Rafsnas 344. Raegefjord 44. Raakelid 27. Raeknaes 193. Rzeknaeshaug 193. Rallsfi 309. Riimen 360. 361. Raemmen 275. Rappe 385. Rariid 381. Rz‘ibacken 371. Rfiback 290. Riiby Raddningsinstitut 383 Rz‘ilacingen, Lake 302. Rfinas 347. Rfinefi. 372. Rfinnum 288. Rfishult 380. Rfistok 277. Rfivarpen 276. Red 180. Reensfjeld 81. Refnaestangen 105. Refsudden 378. Refsundssjii 366. Reien 90. Reiersdal 41. Reimersholm 292. 343. Rein 217. Reinaa 218. Reina-Nut 54. Reindalstind 233. Reindalsvik 233. Reinlid 86. Reinlidsbygd 87. Reina 250. Reisaeter 56. Reitan 209. Reiten, Gaard 199. Reitstgen 209. Rekarne 348. Rekkingsnuten 29. Rekve 76. Relling 123. 184. Rem, Gaard 185. Rembesdalsfos 62. Rembesdalsvand 62. Rena 207. Rengen, Lake 303. Rennen, Gaard 125. Rennesdals-Saeter 82. Rennesfl 50. Rem?! 263. Rensnuten 30. Reppefjord 260. Repvaag 260. Revikhorn 167. Riddarsvik 351. Riddersprang 127. 130. Ridii 344. Riget, Gaard 41. Riingadn-Saetre 159. Riingsbotn 150. 160. Riingsbrae 150. 160. Riingstinder 150. 160. Rimforsstriim 303. Rindalen 201. Rindalshorn 164. 188. Rindenelv 127. Rindii 347. Rindsaeter 127. Ringebo 117. Ringedalsfos 67. Ringedalsvand 66. 67. Ringerifos 55. Ringneessaeter 130. Ringgen 62. Ringsaker 115. Ringsjii 381. Ringstorp 303. Ringvadsa 248. 250. Riondefos 106. Risagrotten 230. Risbo-Elf 30. Rise 172. 204. Risland 39. Risnefiord 112. Risii 344. Rjukanfos 23. -, Lille 35. Rjukande Fos 81. Roaldkvam 28. 42. Robertsholm 359. Roboltfjeld 34. Rockebro 302. Rognaes 210. Rognan 237. Rogue 134. Rokomborre 247. Rolda 245. Rolfshus 80. Rolfsfl 257. Rolfsahavn 257. Roma, Monastery 378. Rombaken-Fjord 243. Romeleklint 383. Romenaes 34. Romerike 114. Romfo gkj aerringerne 204. Rommedal 109. Rommehest 109. Romsdal 123. Romsdalsfjord 194. Romsdalshorn 124. 126. Romsdalsstuen 268. Rondane 117. 119. 207. Rondeslot 207. Ronehamn 378. Ronene 40. ' Rosenborg 380. Rosendal (near _ holm) 339. - (Hardangerfjord) 55. Rosersberg 350. Rosnaas 64. Stock- Rosshyttan 365. Rossvalen, Lake 309. Rostafjeld 247. Rostavand 247. Rotebro 350. Rothoug 74. Rotknaet 233. ltotsund 252. Rottnaelf 306. Rottneros Bruk 306. Rotvold 218. Rovijaur 237. Roxen, Lake 299. Red 197. 275. 276. Rgdbergs-Saeter 146. Redbj erget (near Thrond- hjem) 217. 226. Rndbjergtind 250. Rijdesund 291. Rgdevaeggen 261. Riidgafvel 295. Riidgafvels Port 296. Rfldhellerfjeld 25. Rodi 189. Rode 233. Rgdsaet 186. Radsheim, s. Rgjshjem. Rodsund 227. Radungsvand 25. Radvaselv 230. Rgdvenfjord 196. Rrden 90. Roikedal 104. ' Rgikedalsbrae 102. Raise 60. Rgjshjem 145. Reken 15. Rokjeskaalvand 162. Raldal 30. 42. Rflldalsaaten 30. Reldalsvand 30. Raneid 102. Rtinne 391. Riinneg. 284. 392. Rgraas 208. Rgrhusdal 183. Rernaestind 250. 251. Euros 208. Ram 229. Rerstad 173. Rijrstrand 340. Rflrvik 178. 227. Rgsaa 229. Rasaaeren 229. Reske 220. Rest 241. Rtistfinga 381. Resvand 229. Rflsvik 244. Rzti 98. Revdefjord 168. Rueid 173 Rugsund 166.‘ INDEX. 417 Ruklenut 64. 65. Ruksisvaggegaissa 251. Rundal 106. Rnndalselv 106. Rundehoug-Seeter 106. Rundvashflgda 207. Runn-S'6 359. 361. Runsa 351. Runstenskyrka 388. Rupefjeld 179. ' Rusglop 131. Ruskola 271. 372. Ruslienssetre 131. Russenelv 131. Russe Rundhfl 131. Russerhule 261. Rustdalen 39. Rusteggen 137. Rusten (Baeverdal) 148. — (Gudhrandsdal) 120. Rustenfjeld 120. RuZgen-Saeter (Beeverdal) 1 Rusten Ravine 120. Ruste-Sseter (Baever- kjaern) 148. Rustoen 180. 191. Rustcfjeld 191. Rusvand 131. Rusvasbod 131. Rute 378. Ruten 247. Rutinfjeld 127. Ruyttotjock 264. Ryd 379. Rydboholm 284. Rydningen 247. Ryfos 102. Ryfylke 46. Rygge (Smalenene) 273. Ryggen (Dalecarlia) 359. Ryghydna 188 Ryhaugen 203. Rypegern-Stream 128. Ryr 7 Rysfgaeren 167. Ryssby 379. Rytviken 127. Ryvardens Fyr 51. Sadelegen 179. Sadelfjeld 93. Sadlen (near Hammerfest) 254 Sadva Lake 237. Saganses 105. Sagfjord 243. 244. Saggat-Saur 371. Sagvande 243. Sahlstad 288. Sakshorn 172. Sala 365. Salajaekna 236. BaanEKEB's Norway Salangenfjord 245. Salen, Lake 379. Salien-Seeter 128. Salmis 372. Sals ta 358. Saltbu 229. Saltdal (Saltenfjord) 237. Saltdalselv 237. Salten 233. Saltenfjord 234. Saltkallan 279. Saltkjelnaes 108. Saltnaes 237. Saltnaessaalen 205. Saltnaessanden 201. Saltsjti 316. . Saltstrcm 235. Samlekolle 57. Samlentjord 57. Samlenut 57. Samnangerfjord 56. Sand (Sandsfjord) 48. 42. Sanddalstjeld 179. Sanddalsvand 181. Sande (Holmedal) 177. — (near Drammen) 31. —- (Loenvand) 189. Sandefjord 32. Sandeid 49. .Sandeidsfjord 49. Sandelv 157. Sanden (Tinsjfl) 22. Sandene 167. Sandenibben 188. 189. Sander 272. Sandesognfjord 31. Sandferhus 218. 219. Sandfjeld 179. Sandfjord 262. Sandflesen 232. Sandhamn 348. Sandhorn 234. Sairgisnses (Moldefjord) —- (Stavangerfjord) 45. 47 — (Nordland) 235. —— (Oldenvand) 191. Sandnsesoen 229. Sandok 36. Sandra (near Stadt) 167. Sandsfjord 48 ‘Sandsjti 379. Sandstangen 272. .Sandstfl 63. Sandsviken 359. Sandtorv 245. Sandvser 261. Sandven (Norheimssund) -— (Soandvenvand) 65. Sandvenvand 64. 65 Sandvik (Stadtland) 168. and Sweden. 2116. Edit. Sandviken (near Levan- ger) '. —— (near Gefle) 359. —- (near Christiania) 14. — (near Bergen) 74. Sandviksfjeldet 68. Sangerfijeld 25. 82. Sannescen 229. Sannesund 274. Sarabraaten 13. Sarektjokko 237. Sarpen, Fall 168' Sarpsborg 274. Sarpsfos 274. Sartoro 53. Saude 49. Saudefjord 49. Saudehorn 172. Saue-Nuten 54. Sauerelv 34. Saugfl 275. Sauland 26. Sautzofosse 269. Saxaklep 56. Seebfl (Jflrundfjord) 172. — (Bifjordsvand) 60. Saebe'axla 172. Saby 303. Safjaz‘i. 351. Safsjo' 379. Safsjiistrtim 386. Safstaholm 291. Safvefi 289. Saeheimsdal 97. Saekken 194. 197. Saekkenaes 197. Sselbo 218. Sselbo-Sjc 218. Steltun 95. Sarti 284. Salter (Dalecarlia) 365. Saeterbrse 189. Saeterfjeld 188. Saeternaes 166. Ssetersdal (nearChristian- sand) 41 Sseterstoen 272. Saetervand 197. Saetredal (N ebbedal) 175. Saevli .' Seckestad 291. Seeljesmterhorn 182. Seffle 360. Sefl‘le Canal 306. Segefi 383. Seglingsberg 361. Segmon 360 Seida 265. Seidafjeld 265. Seierstad 227. Seiland 253. 255. Seim i Graven 77. Sel 119. 27 418 INDEX. Selao 345. Selfingerfi. 368. Selje 167. 168. Seljenaes 196. Seljee 167. Seljestad i Odde 31. 49. Seljestadjuvet 31. Selseng, Gaard 109. Selsnut 55. Selsovig 233. Sem (Snaasenvand) 220. -— (near Tgnsberg) 32. Semfi. 367. Semb 32. Semla 361. Semmelaa 143. Semmelhul 143. Semmeltind 143. Semsfi. 367. ‘ Senjehest 245. Senjen 245. 246. Senum 41. Seutivarre 247. Seven Sisters 230. Sevlefos 107. Sexe 63. _ Siggen 51. Signildsberg 352. Sigtuna 352. Sigtunafjarden 352. Sigurdsrud 22. Sikefi 370. Sikfors 360. Sikkilsdalshorn 127. Sikkilsdalshe 127. Sikkilsdalssaeter 127. Sikkilsdalsvande 127. Sildefjord 55. Si1den__252. Silen,OstraandVestra276. Siljan, Lake 363. Siljansuas 364. Siljord 27. Siljordsvand 27. 34. Sillen, Lake 292. Simbrishamn 391. Simleaa, see Semmelaa. Simlehul, seeSemmelhul. Simlenaasi 1 Simlenecs 105. Simlenuten 28. Simletind, see Semmel- tind. Simoa 18. Simodal 61. Simogalfos 150. Simonstad i Aamlid 35.39. Simonstorp 305. Sindre 182. Singelaer 278. Singsaas 210. Sira 44. Siradal 198. Sirakirke 198. Siredal 44. Siredalsvand 44. Sitlefos 98. 'erpenut 107. erping 107. 0a 130. 140. 142. udal 127. 130. odalsvand 128. 131. oghulstind 137. ortningsbrae 141. 6berg 290. edolen 199. dholm 292. gholt 185. grseeterva'nd 197. estrand 109. gvik 185. 5vik 380. evikshorne 185. urnaestind 250. useet 56. Skaalan 182. 188. Skaalbrae 189. Skaalesceter 106. Skaalfjeld 188. 189. Skaallund 235. Skaanars 219. Skaard, Gaard 61. Skaaren 98. Skaarene 104. Skabbree 189. Skabersjo' 391. Skabo 118. Skaftiiland 279. Skagagjel 159. Skagastsle 159. Skagastelsbotn 160. Skagastolsbree 160. Skagastclsdal 99. .9saw.wmpmmmmpwmmgl £19181 Skagastelstind 99. 160. Skagern-Sjii 291. Skager Rak 278. Skaget 136. Skaggeflaa, Gaard 183. Skaggeflaafos 183. Skaidi 237. Skalfjeld 127. Skalka-Jaur 371. Skalnees 264. Skammedalshoidn 107. Skandr 390. Skansberg 287. Skansen 361. Skara 290. ' Skarafjeld 58. Skardha 129. Skare 65. Skarfven 351. Skarhult 392. Skarnaes 272. ‘ Skarnsund 219. Skarpsno 11. Skarpst-rcmmen 35. Skarsfjord 233. Skarsfos 65. Skarsten 188. Skarst-enfj eld 180. 181. 188. Skarstind 158. Skarsvaag 258. Skarsvand 25. Skarvaa 83. Skarvand 24. Skarvedal 142. Skarvedalsbcek 142. Skatestrem 166. Skatoren 250. Skattkar 307. Skauta 153. Skautaelv 131. 144., Skautfly 130. Skauthe 144. Skavlikollen 245. Skalby 387. Ska-ralid 381. Skarkind 303. Skfine 384. 389. Skfire 307. Skeaker 161. 121. Skeback 309. Skei 180. Skeiseeter 1.16. Skeje i Hjeerdal 26. Skeldervik 284. 285. Skelleftefi 237. 370. Skeninge 302. Skevik, Lake 347. Ski 273. Skibotten 247. 251. Skibsfjord 259. Skien 33. Skienselv 33. Skilbred 178. Skilbredsvand 178. Skillebotn 229. Skinegg 138. Skiringssal 32. Skiseeter 61. Skyangli 244. Skt'eeggedal 66. Skyrggedalsfos 67. Skyeeggestad 117. Skgeerdalen 18. Skgaargehavn 112. 165. Sku'aeringen 166. Skj'sersurden 185. Sk; eerva 252. Skleberg 275. Skgeidesnipa 110. Sk; eingen 227. Skleldal, Gaard 57. Sku'elntes 55. SkJelvik 64. Sk; erdal 106. INDEX. 419 SkJerstadfjox-d 235. ."erveselv 77. ;ervesfos 77. ervet 77. .oldehavn 242. '; olden 101. Skmoldfjeld 91. ‘ohm 196. ombotn 244. ‘omenfjord 243. torta 180. 198. Qala-Pass 218. Skymnne 25. Sktrflnstuen 236. Sk‘grenfjord 226. Skt fltningberg 261. Skoddals-Fjaeren 62. Skodshorn 92. Skofjarden 352. Skogadal 152. 156. Skogadalsbaen 156. 152. Skogadalselv 156. Skogadalsfos 156. Skogadalsnaasi 156. Skogefos 124. Skogerg 266. Skogfrudal 231. Skogn 219. Skogshorn 81. Skogsg 242. Skogstad 92. Skogstorp 349. Skogumsaas 15. Skokloster 352. Skole 101. Skollenborg 19. Skonevik 50. 52. Skoneviksfjord 50. Skopum 31 Skor, Gaard 173. Skorgedal 186. Skorpa 170. Skorpen 55. 252. Skorsten 123. Skortind 186. Skorvefjeld 27. Skorvefos 77. Skotselven 18. Skotsfjord 244. Skotstinder 241. 244. Skouger 31. Skougumsaas 37. Skéfde 290. Skaien 88. Skiinvik 306. Skracka 361. Skraddareklint 286. Skraedderdal 74. Skraelna 167. Skredja—Fjeld 203. Skredvand 35. 180. Skreiabjerg orSkreiafj eld 114. . Skreifjord 255. Skridulaupbrae 162. 163. Skriken 109. Skrikjofos 63. Skrimsfjeld 20. Skroven 242. Skrutvold 134. Skruven 174. Skudal 118. Skudesnaes 50. Skudesnaeshavn 5U. Skudeviken 74. Skulgamtinder 248. Skultorp 290. Skurdal 25. Skurugata 388. Skurup 391. Skurusund 347. 348. Skutskar 359. Skyllberg 302. Skylstad 174. Skylstadbrekken 174. Skyrifjeld 92. Skyrisuxelen 124. Skytjafos 61. Slaebende 15. Slatbaken 300. Sledal 172. Slepen 26L Sletmarklw 136. 137. 140. Sletnzes 262. Slettafos 124. Slettedal 49. Slettefjeld 97. Sletten 51. Sletterust 93. 98. Slidreaas 90. Slidrefjord 91. Sliper 204. Slite 378. Slitehamn 378. Slogen 173. 174. Slottet 37. Sloudalsvand 59. Slflvbergf'eld 181. Sluppen 10. Slyngsfjord 185. Slyngstad 185. Smaadal 145. Smaadalssaeter 145. Smaadgla 81. 130. Smaaget, Defile 155. Smaaland 378. Smaamgllen 74. Smalaberg 158. Smfiland 301. 378. Smedby 386. Smeddal 93. Smeddalsvand 93. Smedjebacken 360. ' Smiugjela 144. Smijgen 279. Smzlen 171. Smgrbottenfjeld 194. Smgrbringa 262. Smgrhul, Saeter 135. Smarlidsaeter 145. Smflrstabbrae 149. 158 Smgrstabpiggene 149. Smflrstabtind 141. 157. 160 Smgrvik 115. I Snaasen vand 220. Snarum 79. Sna'rumselv 79. Snaufjeld 185. Snehaetta 203. Snehulstind 141. Snejerak 371. Sncrle 119. 128. Snetind 172. 199. Snetuen 182. Snilsthveit 55. Sntivelstorp 300. Snuhorn 184. Sofielund 89. Sofiero 384. Sofietind 250. Sogna 34. Sogndal (Guldal 205. -— (J sederen) 44. - (Sognefjord) 109. Sogndalselv 109. Sogndalsfjord 101. 108. Sogndalsvand 109. Sognefest 112. Sognefjeld 148. Sognefjord 96. Sognesjg 112. Sogneskar i Valle 41. Soknaelv 210. Soknedal 205. Solberga 302. Solbjgrg 56. Solbjmgenut 107. Sole 46. Soleitinder 98. 160. Solfjeld 55. Solheimsfjeld 25. Solheimsviken 75. Solhaug 12. ' Solheimsheia 178. 179. Solleftefi. 369. Sollentunaholm 350. Solleriin 364. Solliden 117. 207. Solna 341. Solnm'dal 185. Solnut 63. Solovom 269. Solaen 233. 231. 235. 801131‘ 272. Solsi-Saeter 59. Smgrskredfjeld 174.175. 27 * 420 INDEX. Solsivand 59. Solvaagfjeld 231. 237. Solvaagtind 237. Solvorn 99. Sommen 302. -—, Lake 302. Sommera 243. Somnaes 228. 229. Somnhoved 229. Soner 273. Soon 37. 273. Sorsele 230. Sortland 242. Sordlandsund 242. Sotasaeter 162. Sotefjord 279. Sotenas 279. Sotenuten 58. Sottern, Lake 291. Sound, the 384. 389. Sflberg. 210. Saboden 27. 34. Siiderfis 381. Siiderbarke 361. Siiderfjard 368. Sijderfors 358. Siiderhamn 368. Siiderkiiping 300. Sijdermanland 292. SiSderteIge 292. 301. Siidra Staket 348. Saholt 185. Sgkelven, see Sykelven. Soknesandsnipa 180. Sglsnaes 195. 197. Siilvesborg 380. Sgndfjord 165. Send-Horland 51. 165. Snndmm'e 171. Sflndre Birkedal 169. —— FrOn 118. -— Garthus 86. -— Tvaeraa 131. Sannereim 84. Sannereimsgalder 84. 106. Sbrby 289. Sardalen 244. Sardalsgaard 168. Sardalsvatten 168. Sure 91. Sore Vartdal 172. Serefjord 76. Sgrfjord 62. 250. Sgrfjordena Kirke 250. Sarfolden 244. Snrkedalselv 14. Sgrkjos 252. Sara 253. Siirqvarn 361. Siirstafors 361. Sorsund 253. Serum (Gudbrandsdal) 128 Sgrum (Valders) 86. Sarumfjeld 85. Sarvig 227. Siisdala 380. Setnas 126. Sflvde (Fortundal) 150. -— (Suvdefjord) 49. Sflgélefjord (Bukkenfjord) —— (Sendmgre) 168. Seveien 246. Savik (Alsten) 229. — (Indfjord) 194. Spaadomsnut 27. Spangereid 44. Sparreholm 292. Spa‘inga. 311. Spekii 286. Sperle 103. Sperlegen 103. Sperlingsholm 284. Spillum 220. Spirillen, Lake 85. Spirta-Njarga 261. Spiterstul 144. Spflrtegbra: 102. 104. Sprengdal 162. Sprovtjeld 186. Staavand 29. Stabbefonn 183. Stabben 171. 200. Stabbensfyr 166. Staberg 130. Stadt, Promont. 167. Stadtland 167. Stafre 366. Stafsniis 348. Stafsnuten 29. Stai 207. St-alheim 78. 108. Stalheimsfos 107. Stalheimsklev 107. Stamnaes 229. Stampen 289. Stampestriimsfall 286. Stamsund 241. Stana 64. Standal 172. Stange 206. Stangenaes 262. 266. Stangenazsfjeld 262. Stangfjord 165. Stanghelle 76. Stanglandsfjeld 112. Stangvik ‘ Stantind 248. Stappene 57. Stardal 180. 191. Stathelle 38. Statt, Promont.,seeStadt. Stattland, see Stadtland.. Stav 117 .Stavangerfjord 45. Stavberg-Saetre 174. Stavbergsvand 174. Stavbrekkene 164. Stavedalsfjeld 87. Staven, Fjeld 174. —, Hill . Stavfjord (Fardefjord) 165 — (Norfolden) 244. Stavilla-Elv 205. Stavnaes 165. Stavsaet 173. Stavsaetflu 173. Stakeholm 304. Stiiket 311. 351. Stallberg 309. Stalldalen 309. 360. Stz‘inga 378. Stangfi (river) 302. Stz‘ingebro 303. Stfingenaes 279. Stedje, Gaard 109. Steen 15 Steensfjord 14. Stegafjeld 125. 184. Steganaasi 98. 105. 106. Stegeborg . Stegen (Engele) 244. Stegfjord 232. Stegsaeter 105. Stehag 381. Steie, Gaard 109. Steig, Gaard 118. Steinbergdal 84. Steinbodsjfl 92. Steindalselv 153. Steine 56. Steinsdal 56. Steinsdalsfos 56. Stelleborg 392. Stellefijeld 134. Stemme 170. Stemshesten 170. Sten 195. St-enbjerg 213. 210. Stenbrohult 380. Stende (Strandefjord) 80. Stene 1 B9’ 242. — i Lofoten 241. Stene, Gaard (Sjodal) 127 Stenegbrae 158. Stenhammar 292. Steninge 352. Stenjattar 378. Stenkjaer 220. 219. Stenkorsnaes 57. Stennaes 173. Stensaettjeld 178. Stensij 387. Stenstorp 289. "Stavanger 45. Stensvig 171. 200. INDEX. 4 Stensvik 168. Stenviken 207. Stervik 359. Stigersand 114. Stigtomta 349. Stiklestad 220. Stilvasaa 231. Stjaernerc 48. Stjernarp 299. .Stj ernhof 292. Stjernholm 350. Stjernc 253. Stjernsund 235. Stockaryd 379. Stockholm 311. Academy of Arts 324. -— of Science 327. Agricultural Museum 3 . Alkarret 338. Almanna-Grand 337. Bankers 312. Baths 315. Baltespannare 336. Beckholmen 317. Bellevue 341. Bellman‘s R0 338. Belvedere 339. Bergskola 328. Berzelii Park 324. Blasieholmen 324. Blockhusudde 339. Brunkebergs Torg 324. Cabs 312. Cafés 312. Carl den Tolftes Torg 323. 347. Carolinska Institut 340 Cemetery 341. Churches : Adolf Fredriks Kyrka ‘ 28 3 . Carl J ohans 338. Clara 324. English Church 316. 32 German Church 320. Jacobs Kyrka 323. Katharina 337. Riddarholms 321. Storkyrka 320. Tyska Kyrka 320. Ulrica Eleonora 340. Confectioners 312. Consulates 312. Djurgfird 338. Djurgfirdsbrunn 339. Drottninggata 324. English Church 316. 327 Exchange 320. Frisens Park 339. . Stockholm: Governofs House 320. GuardHouse 318. Gustaf Adolfs 323. Gymnastic Institution 324 Torg Hammers Villa 338. Handarbetets Vanner Utstallning 315. Hasselbacken 333. Helgeandsholmen 317. Hofratt2 Svea 322. Hotels 311. Humlega‘ird 328. Kastellholmen 311. Konstfiirening 323. Kornhamnstorg 320. Kiitt Torg 320. Kungsholm 317. 340. Kungstradgfird 323. Ladugfirdslandet 317. Landtbruks Akademi Lidingiibro 341. Logzcirds 'I‘rappa 346. Lunatic Asylum 340. Manilla 339. Malaren, Lake 316. 342. Military Hospital 340. Mint 318. 340. Monuments: Bellman 338. Berzelius 324. Birger Jarl 322. Charles Xll. 323. Charles XIII. 323. Charles XIV. John 336 Gustavus Vasa 321. GustavusAdolf us 323. Gustavus III. 319. Mosebacke 337. Munkbro 321. 344. Music 315. Nacka 342. National Library 328. National Museum 328. Antiques 329. Armour 331. Ceramic Collection 331 Coins 330. Drawings 330. Egyptian Collection 332 Engravings Historical Museum 329 Picture Gallery 332. Sculptures 331. Natural History Col— lection 328. Stockholm: Norrbro 318. Northern Museum 324. Nybrohamn 346. Observatory 328. Palace, Royal 318. —'of the Crown Prince Petersenhus 321. Post Office 312. 324. Railway Station 315. Rfidhuset 321. Restaurants 311. Riddarholmen 317. 321. Riddarhus 321. Riks-Archiv 322. Riks-Bibliotek 328. Riksdagshus 322. Itosendal 339. School of Mining 323. Schweitzerier 312. Serafimer Lazaret 340. Shops 315. Skeppsbron 318. Skeppsholmen 317. 337. Skinnarviken 340. SlijjdfiireningsMuseum 324 Sliijdskola 324. Slott 318. Slottsbacke 319. Slussen 317. 336. Siidermalmen 317. 336. 85derstr6m 336. Spz‘irvagnar 314. Staden 317. 318. Steamboats 314. Stora Nygata 320. Stortorg 3 30. Strdmborg 322. Striliénparterre 312. Synagogue 324. Tegelviken 342. Technologicallnstitute 328 Telegraph Office 312. Theatres 315. 323. Town Hall 321. Tramway 314. Tradgzoards Fiirening 339. Vasabro 317. Stohovden 30. Stokke (Saeter, in the Langedal) 98. - (near Sandef’ord) 32. Stokkehornet 1 2. Stokmarknaes 242. Stoke 227. Stoksund 226. Stolbjerget 173. Stora 309. 422 INDEX. Store. Djuli)’ 292. -— Essingen 343. —- Lee Sjd 276. 277. Rtjr 388. Sundby 309. Tuna 365. Stori 300. Storbakken (Maalselvs— dal) 247. -— (in Sweden) 371. Stordal 104. 185. Stordalsnees 185. Storde' 52. Store Aadal 140. -— Bjerga 229. Braeen 107. Ekkere 264. Elvdal 207. Finkirke 261. Storebro 388. Storefond 29. Store Graanaase 105. -*- Grovbree 148. Storehammer 114. Store Hinden 131. Storhorn 172. Store Juvbrae 148. - Kraekjavand 38. Store Majvand 221. Storemzlle 74. Stogg Skagastclstind 99. .— - Soknefos 95. - Strem 75. -— Suphellebree 110. -— Toren 169. —- Utladal 154. - Varden 167. Storeggen 169. 185. Storelv 18. 180. -— (near Molde) 197. Storfale 204. Storfjeld 265. Stpggjord(sflndmare)169. -— (Velfjord) 229. — (Lyngenfjord) 251. Storfors 307 . Storforshei 231. Storf17‘os (near Elvenaes) Stor-Fosen 226. Storhaetten 124. Stor-Halleren 157. Storhesten 126. Storhorn 185. Storhapiggen 127. Storhoug (Sogndalsfjord) 108. 109. Storhougen (Vidde, near the J ostedal) 101. Storjord 231. 235. 237. Storklevstad 118. Storlien (Seeter, Maursaet) 25. 83. -- (Leirdal) 148. -— (Sweden) 218. 367. Storlivatn 168. Stormdalsfos 231. Stormdalshei 231. Stormo 236. Stornaase 104. Stornees 229. Storseeter 121. Storseeterfos 184. Storsjii (near Gefie) 359. —~ (Jemtland) 220. 304. near Storsje (Hallingdal) 80. - (Hedemarken) 272. Storskarven 209. Stor-Salen 207. Storstennses (Balsfjord) 247 —- (Tromsdal) 249. Storstrem 235. Storsveen 86. Stor Tuen 193. Storvik (Sweden) 365. -— (V aagevand) 129. Stor-Vreta 358. Stosoira 184. Stels—Maradal 99. Stelsnaastind 154. Stenjumsfos 95. Sterdalselv 218. 219. Stcrdalgfggrd 218. 219. Stcren . 10. Sterlaugpik 181. Strand (Battenfjord) 200. - (Eikisdal) 197. - (Oldenvand) 191. —- (Sundalsfjord) 171. - (Tinsje) 23. - (Vraadal) 35. Strande (Fanetljord) 195. Strandebarm 55. Stggndefjord (Aurdal) 90. -— (Hallingdal) 80. 82. 83. (Vang) 2. Strandelvsfos 198. Stranden (Storfjord) 174. 185. Strandsfos 64. Stivengen 34. Straken, Lake 293. Stratlsnies 302. Strangsjii Strengnas 345. Striberg 307 . Strindenfjord 218. Strondefjord 103. Streen, Lake 80. Strem (Skjerstadfj 0rd) 235. Strcmboden 207. Strgmbu Strijmma 380. Strdmma Canal 348. Strcmme 167. Stremmen (Throndhjem Fjord) 219. -—- (near Lillestrcm) 113. —— (Seetersdal) 41. — (near Seiland) 250. 253 —— (in Valders) 85. Strgmnees 252. Strgmfl 235. Stro'msa 278. Strijjmsholm 310. 348. 3 . Striimsholms Canal 360. 361 Strgmshorn 186. Strgmshylden 220. Stremsmoen 247. Stromsnaes (Altenfjord) 253 — (Sundalsfjord) 171. Stremsc 16. Strtimstad 278. Strtimsvatn 278. Stremvand 128. Stryndal 187. Strynselv 187. Strynskaupen 188. Stuefloten 123. Stuen (Brkedal) 204. Stugunes 92. Stuoranjarga 250. Sturefors 303. Sturehof, Chateau 344. Stutgangen-Kamp 128. —— Saeter 128. 131. Stygfjeldet 207. Styggebree 144. 146. Styggedalsbotn 153. 160. Styggedalsbra: 153. Styggedalselv 153. Styggedalsnaase 153. Styfigllgedalstind 156. 153. 1 Styggefondsfos 124. Styggehfl 144. Styggfors 364. Styve 106. Sukkertop (Have) 257. - (Hess) 172. Sulafjeld 227. Suledal 41. 42. Sui2edalsvand 48. Suleim, Gaard 130. Suleimssaeter 144. Sulenaer 112. Suletind 92. Sulevand 93. INDEX . 423 Snlheim 147. Sulitjelma 236. 237. 371. Sula 186. Sulstuen 220. Sund (Elgfifjord) 306. — (Lofoden) 240. Sundal (Nordfjord) 162. - (Nordmgre) 204. Sundalselv 183. 204. Sundalsfjord 171. 201. 204. Sundalsgren 204. Sundby 237. 345. Sundbyberg 311. Sunddalsfjord (Halling- dal) 83. Sunde (Hal-danger) 52. ~— (Opstrynvand) 187. —- (Oldenvand) 191. —— (Snaasenvand) 220. Sunderg 243. Sundet 220. Sundhellerf'eld 84. Sundkilen 4. Sundnees 219. Sundre i Aal 82. Sundsaeter 128. Sundstad 86. Sundstrgm 235. 241. Sundsvall 368. Sundvolden (Tyrifjord) 14. Sunelven 183. 184. Sunelvfjord 183. Sunnanfi 277. Sunne 306. Sunniva 167. Suoppanjarg 265. 268. Suphellebrae 110. Suphelle-Saeter 100. 109. Surahammar 361 Surendal 201. Surendalszren 171. 201. Surte 285. Svaagen 31. Svaahg 161. Svajdalsbrae 159. Svalheim 98. Svalperup 389. Svandalsflaaene 30. Svaneholm 391. Svaneke 391. Svanesjé 391. Svanesund 279. Svangstrandsvei 14. 15. Svansfjord 276. Svartfi. 307. , river 302. 307. 308 Svartbytdal 162. Svartdal 137. 128. Svartdalsaaxle 128. 137. Svartdalsbrae 137. Svartdalseggen 143. Svartdalsglupet 137. - Svartdalspigge 137. 140. Svartdalstjaern 137. Svartdgla 137. Svartediket 75. Svartegelfos 94. Svartenut 64. Svartisen 233. 230. Svartisvand 231. Svartlfi. 371. Svartsjij 344. Svartsj'ciland 344. 351. Svartvikfjeld 86. Svarvestad 182. Svaltor 289. Sveerefjord 111. Svaeren, Gaard 111. 178. Svaereskard 111. Svaerholt 260. Svaerholtklubben 260. Svedala 383. 391. Sveen (Dalsfjord) 165. -— (Valders) 89. Sveien 28. 29. Sveilnaasbrae 144. Sveilnaasi 144. 146. Sveilnaaspig 146. Svelberg 66. Svelvig 37. Sveningsdal 228. Svennaes 90. Svennesund 24. Svennevad 291. Svensbro 289. Svenskenipa 180. Svenskenvand 80. 81. Svenstorp 391. Sve1rresb0rg(nea1-Bergen) 7 —— (near Thr0ndhjem)216. Sverresti 106. Sviddal 179. Svinesund 278. Svinta 25. Svolvaer 242. Svolvaerjuret 242. Svonaae 203. Sya 302. Sydkrogfl 227. Sydvaranger 266. Sykelven 186. Sylte 123. 184. Syltefjord 262. Syltormon 184. Syndin Lakes 90. Synshorn 128. Synsnib 191. Syrdalsfjeld 105. Sysenvand 83. Syvajarvi 270. Syv Sastre 230. Taberg 293. Tabmokelv 24.7. Tafjord 185. Talgfl 48. Talvik 253. Tamsg 260. Tana 262. 265. Tanaelv 262. 268. Tanafjord 262. —, Vestre and Hstre 2 . Tanahorn 262. Tangen 16. 206. Tanto 292. Tanurn 279. Tarajuck 371. Tarjebudal 30. Tarv-Her 226. Tan 48. Tautra 217. Tavsehydna 188. Tannzci 367. Tannfors 367. Tannsjiin 367. Tfikern Sjti 295. 'l‘fingen 279. Tefsjii 366. Tegelviken 342. Teigen 218. Teigla 103. Telgevik 347. Teln aes (Thelemarken) 27. 34 —- (Hedemarken) 208. Tenden L . Tenhult 293. Teraak 228. Terningmoen 206. Tera 50. 52. 54. Tesleidvand 80. Thelemarken 26. Theseggen 23. Thesseelv 129. 130. Thessevand 129. 130. 145. Thingvold 201. Thjata 229. Thohaug 101. Thordal 163. 'I‘hordalsfos 163. Thorfinsdal 137. Thorfinshul 137. Thorfinstinder 136. Thorfinvand 57. Thorhus 198. Thorsborg 378. Thorshalla 348. Thorshallafi 348. Thorsnut 54. 63. Thorstadnatten 109. Thorstrand 32. Thorvik 196. Thosdal, Gaard 228. Thosbotn 228. Thosenfjord 228. - Thoten 114. 424 IND EX . Threnen 232. Threnfjord 232. Throndenaes 245. Throndhjem 210. Throndhjem Fjord 219. 'l‘hrondhustjeld 86. Thrandelagen 212. 219. Thveit, Gaard 61. Thveite Kvitingen 55. Thveitnut 66. Tifikersjii 277. Tibro 291. Tidaholm 289. Tidan 291. Tidingdal 229. Tierpszci. 358. Tillberga 310. Tilrum 229. Tiltereid 197. Tindefjeldsbrae 183. Tinelv 21. Tinfos 21. Tingshog 357. Tingvallaii 307. Tinne 21. Tinoset 22. Tinsjfl 22. Tisken, Lake 362. Tistedal 275. Tiveden 291. Tjaelhaug 183. aellf! 243. 245. aellsund 243. 245. elde 197. ernagel 51. omatis 371. omatis-Jaur 371. ongsfjord 233. jose 33. 'I‘jodling 32. Qwmnw. Tjiirn 278. 279. Tjiirnarp 380. Tjufi'all 286. Tjiigum 110. Tjukningssuen 131. Tobo 358 Toftasjii 385. Toftemoen 120. Togga 109. Tokeelv 36. Tokheim 55. 64. Tokheimsnut 64. 65. Tokstagaard 2.. Toldaa 231. Toldaadal , Nedre and fine 231. Tolfstad 128. Tolgen 208. Tolleifsrudkirke 86. Tolorma 137. 139. Fae fe’apeeaeee’iee Tolormbod 139. Tombfl 232. Tomlevolden 89. Tommarp 383. Tomrefjord 170. Tongjem 199. Toning 187. 'l‘onsaas 89. Topdalselv 40. Topdalsfjord 39. Toppti 286. 'l‘oppiifall 286. Torekov 284. Torene 169. Torgen 228. Torget, Gaard 228. Torghaetta 228. Torholmen-Vand 93. Tornefi 272. Tornez‘i-Elf 271. 372. Torne-Traesk 271. Torpe 82. 'I‘orpshammar 366. Torrisdalselv 39. Torsfiker 365. Torsby—Bruk 306. 'l‘orsekile 274. Tortuna. 310. Torungerne 39. Torup 391. Torvig 171. Tosterij 345. Totakvand 23. 27. Toten 110. Tgmmernaes 243. 244. Tenjum 95. 106. Tznnas 208. Tgnsaet 208. Tansberg 31. Tansbergs Tande 38. Tiireboda. 291. Tbsse 360. Tease 56. Tgtta 243. Traag 33. Tranfis 302. Traneryd 302. Trankilskyrka 276. Tranniifjard 300. Trang i Hammer 245. Trz'ingfors 361. Trfingsviken 367. Treamaradal 155. 'l‘redal 112. 'l‘rekanten 386. Trelleborg 383. Trellefos 60. Trengereide 76. Tresfjord 186. 194. Trisaet i Laurdal 35. Troldfjord 242. Troldhfl 92. Troldhalen 237. Troldskilholt 106. Troldstolene 194. Trolgjfll 48. Trollabrug 217. rl‘rolle Ljungby 380. Trollhatta, Waterfalls of 285 286. Trollhattan 285. Trollsund 257. Trolltinder 125. 'l‘rome 38. Tromgsund Tromsdal 249. Tromsa 248. Tromsgsund 247. Tromstind 250. Tronaes (Hardangerfjord) - (‘Throndhjem Fjord) 219 'I‘rondhjem, see Thrond- hjem. Tronfjeld 208. Tronstad 183. Triisa 292. Trossii 386. Trgen 207. Trggstad 113. Trydal 41. Tryggestad 183. 'l‘ryggestad-Nakken 175. Trysil 307. l‘ryvandshgide 12. Tubbaryd 380. Tudal 26. Tuefjord 257. T111 81. Tufsen 159. Tufte 82. Tufte-Elv 30. Tufttind 198. Tuliknappen 117. 'l‘ullgarn 292. Tumba 292. Tuna 347. Tundal 108. Tundradal 162. Tundradalskirke 159. Tune i Vang 91. Tungenws 45. 50. Tunghoug 157. Tunhavd 25. Tunhgvdf'ord 25. 80. Tunold 1 . Tunsbergdal 104. Tunsbergdalsbra: 103.104. Tunsbergdalselv 103. Tunvald 178. Tunvaldf'eld 178. Tursten 93. Tustera 171. 200 Turtegrgdsaeter 150. 159. Tustervand 229. l ' INDEX. _ 425 Tusvik 186. Tutaryd 379. Tuttero 217. 219. Tuvesseter 83. Tvaeraa Nordre and Son- dre 1.5.1. Tvserbotnhorn 158. Tvardala 305. Tvserdalsbrae 102. Tvaardalskirke 159. Tvaerfjeld 161. 162. Tvede 35. Tvedestrand 35. 38. Tveit (Simodal) 61. Tveitafos 62. Tveithougen 60. Tveito, Gaard 58. Tverberg 168. Tverbree 146. Tvervik 235. Tvet 35. Tvetsund 35. Tvinde 77. Tvindefos 77. 111. rI‘vindehoug 139. 98. Tydal 218. Tydalsfjelde 218. Tyin, Lake 139. 98. Tykningssuen 131. Tynnelsii 345. Tyrifjord 14. 18. Tysdalsvand, Nedre and fine 48. Tysfjord 243. 245. Tysnaeso 52. Tyssaae 66. Tyssedal 64. 66. Tyssedalsnut 64. 66. Tyssefos 173. Tyssestrenge 67. Tyttebaervik 250. Tyven 254. Tyvold 209. Tyvshelleren 231. Uberg 35. Udbjo 52. Uddeholm 307. 360. Uddevalla 287. Uddnas 361. Uf, Gaard 204. Ula 119. Uladal (Jotunheim) 143. -- (Gudbrandsdal) 207. Uladalsband 143. Uladalsmynnet 143. Uladalstinder 142. Uladalsvande 143, Ulavand 119. Ulefos 34. Ulevasbotten 59. 83. Ulevasnut 83. Ulfasa 299. Ulfhall 346. Ulfii 379. Ulfsfjord 250. Ulfsnaes 250. Ulfstind 250. Ulfstorp 288. Ulfsundasjijn 340. Ullenhouge 46. Ullensvang 63. Ullersater 309. Ullevaa-Sseter 29. Ullevaa-Vatten 29. Ullvii 242. Ulnaes 90. Ulnaeskirke 80. Ulo 252. Ulricehamm 293. Ulriken 68. 74. 75. Ulriksdal 342. Ulsaker 81. Ulstenkloster 50. Ultuna 351. 353. Ulvaa 124. Ulvenaasi 50. Ulvestad 111. Ulvevand 124. Ulvik 58. Ulviksfjord 58. Ulvin 206. Umbugten 230. Ume-Elf 369. Umeii. 369. Undal 44. Undalselv 44. Underiiker 367. Underflkersfi. 367. Underdal 105. Ungsmunnar 380. Uplodsegg 164. Upperudhiilja 276. Uppharad 285. Upsal, Gaard 117. Upsala 353. —, Gamla 357. Upsalaslatten 350. Urabjerg 156. Uradal 154. Uradalselv 156. Uradalsfos 156. Uradalsmulen 155. Uranaasbrae 138. Uranaase 138. Uranaastind 138. 136. 155. Uranienborg 392. Uravand 174. Urbotten 65. Urebjerg 241. Urfjord 229. Urnaes 100. Ursvik 370. Urtfjeld 231. Urtvand 231. Uskedal 55. Ustadal 82. 25. Ustaelv 82. Ustatind 82. Ustavand 82. Utby 364. Utigaard 199. 207. Utigardsfos 190. Utla 98. 156. 157. Utladal 154. 155. ——, Vetle 157. Utladalshullet 156. Utmeland 364. Utne 57. Utnefjord 57. Ut6 348. Utrovand 92. Utsire 51. Uttersberg 310. Utviken 181. Vaade Ovn 391. Vaaer 23. Vaage (Suledalsvand) 48. 42. 45 —- (Vaagevand) 128. Vaageboden 142 Vaagekalle 241. Vaagen (Lofoten) 239. -— (Stavanger) 45. Vaagestrand 194. Vaagevand (Gudbrands- dal) 129. — (Nordland) 234. Vaagsssetergaard 195. \I'aaégsfjord (Nordfjord) 1 6 -— (Vesteraalen) 245. Vaagsfl 166. Vaalaelv 118. Vaalandspiben 46. Vaalhaugen 118. . Vaarsti (DrivaValley)203. Vaatedalselv 180. Vaatevik, Gaard 110. Vaberg 291. 294. Vadensjii 392. Vadheim 177. 111. Vadheimsdal 177. Vadheimsfjord 111. Vadsbo 291. Vadsbro 349. Vadso 264. _, Lille 265. Vadstena 296. Vafos 28. Vagsvik 185. Vaiki-Jaur 37317.1 Vaikijanrb . Vaksala Valbjerget 45. Valbo 359. Valdal (Norddalsfj ord) 184 . 426 INDEX. Valdal (The1emarken)30. Valdemaren, Lake 292. Valdera 169. 172. Valders 88. 89. Valdersfly 128. Valdershorn 85. Valdersund 226. Valegas-Javre 267. Valen 50. Valestrand 52. Valhall 380. Valla 292. Valle (Saetersdal) 42. Valle 37. Vallstfi 366. Valskog 309. Vammeln, Lake 292. Vanas 291. Vanberg 188. Vanddal 103. Vanelven 168. Vanelvsfjord 168. Vanelvsgab 167. Vang 91. Vangsen 103. Vangsmjzsen 91. Vangsnaes 110. Vangsvand 57. '76. Vannenvand 80. Vanna 251. Vara 288. Varaldsa 55. Varanger 266. Varangerfjord 265. 266. Val-berg 60. 284. Vardefjeld 263. Vardekolle 15. 37. Vardesja 202. Vardesjzhfl 202. Varda 263. Vardghus 263. Vargsund 253. Varjag-Njarga 262. Varmofos 1211. Varnhemskyrka 290. Varnumsviken 307. Vary 165. Varpan, Lake 362. Varpenms 197. Vartdal, Sgre 172. Vartdalsfjord 169. 172. Vartofta 293. Vasbotten 287. Vasbygd 84. 106. Vasbygdvand 84. Vasdalsbrae 102. Vasdalseggen 28. Vasgbnden (Breumsvand) 1 . — (Espedalsvand) 126. - (Loenvand) 189. -— (Nedre, 0n the Gra- vensvand) 75. 77. Vasenden (Nedre and 1988e,Jgalstervand) 179. —— (Vasbygdvand) 84. Vasendenfos 66 Vasends-Saeter 81. Vasfjaeren 59. 58. Vashoved 247. Vaslefos 90. Vass-Saeter 25. Vasselhyttan 309. Vastind 248. Vassetelv 90. Vatnevand 172. Vatsaas 228. Vatsenddal 163. Vatsendegg 163. Vattenbygden 236. Vattensazter 58. Vattholma 358. Vattjom 368. Vaxdal 76. V axholm 347. Vaddti 347. Vaderéar 279. Vaefos 65. Vaegen 229. Veeglid 24. Vange 364. Vaerdalen 219. 220. Vaerdalsgren 220. Vaerholm 112. Varing 291. Vaermedalsfos 124. Vaermofos 124. Vierg (near Aalesund) 6 . -— (Lofoden) 2111. Vasby 350. V ase 307. Vfirgfirda 289. Vfirvik 297. Veblungsnaes 126. 195. Vedevfig 309. Vednisfjeld 91. Vedum 288. Vedvik 166. Vee 98. Vefsen 221. Vefsenfjord 229. Vefungen, Lake 361. Vehuskjeerringen 36. Vein 276. Veisten 116. Veitestrandsbygd 100. Veitestrandsskard 100. Veitestrandsvand 99. 100. Vekset 220. Velanda 285. Velfjord 229. Veltvolden 127. Vendel 358. Venebygden 117. Venern, Lake 288. Venersborg 287. Vengetinder 126. Vennees 219. Venneberga 300. Vennesland 4U. Venset 236. Veodal 130. Veoelv 131. Veoknappen 130. Veolisaeter 130. Veg 195. Verlo i Utviken 181. Vermdii 347. 345. Vermelen-Sjii 306. Vermland 305. 360. Vermlandsbro 360. Vermofos 124. Vernamo . Veshuldo 56. Vesle-Aadal 140. 136. -— Hinden 131. Veslefjeld 142. Veslund 127. Vessman, Lake 360. Vestanfors 361. Vest-ad 194. Vestby 273. Vesteraalen 23S. Vesteraas 164. Vesterz‘is 310. Vesterbotten 369. Vesterplana 290. Vesterqvarn 361. Vestervik 304. 388. Vestfjorddal 23. Vestfossen 19. Vestgaard 207. Vestnaes 169. 186. 1911. Vestnaesfjeld 196 Vestra Ed 276. — Husby 300. — Vaggar 296. Vestre, Gaard 185. Vestre Slidre 90. Vestvaagg 241. Vestvaer 241. Veta-Aas 95. Vetanaase 97. Vetenakken 167. Vetlebrae 110. 111. Vetlefjord 111. Vetlenibben 104. Vetle Utladal 157. Vetlevand 67. Vetterhaga 347. Vettern, Lake 294. Vettersborg 296. Vetti, Gaard 99. Vettisfos 99. Vettisgalder 154. Vengefj eldene 125. 194. 196 INDEX. 427 Vettisgjel 98. Vettismorksaeter 154. Veum 35. 41. Vevang 171. Vexi6 385. Vexnesjti 366. Viberudde 45. Vibesnaasi 106. Vibetorp 388. Videdal 188. Vie 220. Viefjeld 179. Vierbotten 83. Vierdok 91. Vigdal 101. Vigdalsseeter 101. Vigdflla 103. Vigholmen 231. Vigland Gaard 40. Vigten 227. Vik (Eidfjord) 60. -- (.Elgfifjord) 306. -— (Folsj 21. a) -— (Gudbrandsdal) 118. —- (Hedemarken) 206. — (Invikfjord) 187. —— (Jemtland) 367. —— (near Molde) 170. — (Sognefjord) 111. —— (Sflvdefjord) 168. - (Tyrifjord) 14. Vikebugt 63. Vikedal 49. Viken (Bardudal) 247. -— (Eikisdal) 199. —— (Gijta Canal) 291. Vikersund 18. Vikersvik 307. Vikesaxlen 199. Vikmanshyttan 365. Viko 80. Vikgr 56. Viksvand 111. 178. Vildure 63. Villand, Gaard 83. Vimmerby 303. 388. Vinaes 57. Vindalsbugd 32. Vindaxlen 60. Vindedal 97. 105.’ . Vindedalssater 100. Vindeelv 134. Vindefjord 49. Vindegg 26. Vindhelle 94. Vindrekken 110. Vindkeern 365. Vingz‘iker 291. Vinger 272. Vingersfl 272. Vignaes 116. Vinje (Thelemarken) 27. -— (Slyngsfjord) 185. - (i Voss) 77. Vinje-Elv 36. Vinjefjord 171. Vinjevand 27. Vinkefjord 244. Vinstervand 128. 136. Vinstra 127. 204. V intertun 49. Vintjern 365. Viren 292. Virijaur 236. 237. Virsbo 361. Virsbosjii 361. Visa 145. Visborg 376. Visby 375. Visdal 143. 158. Visdalsseetre 145. Visingsborg 294. Visingsti 293. 294. Viskan 368. Viskafors 284. Vislanda 379. Visman, Lake 307. Visnaes 167. 182. 187. Vistdal 198. Vistnes 229. Vittinge 364. Vivelstad 229. Vold(R0msdalsfjm-d)194. -— (Valders) 86. Voldbo 134. Voldbofjord 134. Volddal 98. Volden 169. ' Voldenfjord 168. 169. Vomtinder 243. Vora 181. ~——-——_I.l-——————- OCT 1 8 1916 Vortem 251. Voss 76. Vosseelv 76. 77. Vosseskavl 59. Vossestgle 57. Vossestrands-Elv 77. Vossestranden 78. Vossevangen 76. Voxli 28. Voxlivand 28. Voxna 365. Voxtorp 387. Vzringsfos 61. Vraadal 35. Vraavand 35. Vrangelsborg 381. Vrena 34 Vretakloster 299. Vreten 289. Vretstorp 291. Vuludalselv 163. Vuluvand 163. Vuolla-Njunnes 268. Vuorie-Duodder 260. — Njarg 260. -— Tjokk 268. Vuorjem 267. Ylgelidsaeter 25. Ymesfjeld 146. 158. Yngen, Lake 307. Yrkefjord 49. Ystad 391. Ytre Bakken 307. Ytredal 184. Ytre Dalm 177. Ytre Eide 187. Ytre Kroken 100. Ytre Samlen 53. -— Vigten 227. Ytterfi. 367. Ytterfisen 367. Ytterdalssaetre 158. Ytterfl 219. Ytter-Sela6 345. Yxland 177. Yxlandvand 177. Yxlab' 347. Zarijokjavre 268. Zaevdse Gaedge 265. Leipsic: Printed by Breitkopf dz Harte]. .1 _ . I , .1 . i . A1 ' 0st trim Greonw. k Thron - em 1 1 . e ? stmm swaosrr. Scale 1:2.ooo.ooo ‘.1 ‘,8 I z s c s a 1 I l w 1 m t: “ 3_-—-* H,’ 1 SwrdishMilc-s. m 20 an _ 5° .7 ‘ ., . . EngLIilQS. .i ' norm e-u— ._. i -- ._‘.__1_ _. :_.._A. . Bostfran Paris 115 l — _- _i — _g A * _____ ,____ Geog'nrph. Anuiull vou ' of Norwegian and Swedish Grammar, ‘ I with ‘ Vocabulary and List of Phrases. .—..0.___ Contents. The Language of Norway. The Language of Sweden. Vocabulary. ‘ Short and Useful Phrases. This cover may be detached from the rest ofthe book by severing the yellow thread which will be found between .2; 1. Language of Norway. The Gothic tribes of Aryan or Indo-European origin who set- tled in Scandinavia, probably about the beginning of the Christian era, if not earlier, appear all to have spoken a common language called the Nor'rmno Mat, afterwards known as the Db'nslca Tunga, the history of which is not distinctly traceable farther back than the 9th or 10th century. That language, now known as Icelandic, or the Old Northern Tongue, and called by the Norwegians ‘Old Norsk’, was carried to Iceland by the Norwegians who settled there in the 9th century, and it has there been preserved in its original purity and vigour down to the present day, while on the mainland it gradually nmlerwent modification and split into several distinct dialects, of which modern Swedish and modern Danish are now the most important. The history of the language of Norway be- tween the colonisation of Iceland and the incorporation of Norway with the kingdom of Denmark towards the end of the 14th century is involved in obscurity, but the dialects spoken in different parts of the country probably continued closely akin to the primitive Old Norsk. In Denmark the original D6nska Tunga had meanwhile undergone considerable alteration, as is shown by the Slmanske Loo and the Sjrrlandskc Loo, promulgated in 1162 and 1171 re- spectively, the gutturals and other consonants having been some- what modified and softened, and the inflections simplified. From the year 1387, when Queen. Margaret, the ‘Northern Semiramis’, was crowned queen of Norway, dates the introduction of the Danish language into the sister country. Between that date and the year 1814 when Norway was severed from Denmark and united with Sweden, the Norwegians had enjoyed a considerable degree of political independence, but their ancient language was gradu- ally superseded by that of the dominant race, which was used by the government officials and adopted by the upper classes gener- ally, although a number of dialects descended from the Old Norsk speech continued to be spoken in the remoter districts, chiefly by the uneducated classes. At the present day therefore the language of the country is Danish, although the natives prefer to call it Norsk, but it is pronounced with greater vigour and distinctness than by the Danes themselves, and it is enriched with a con- siderable number of words derived from the old provincial dialects which greatly enhance its interest. Like other languages of the Teutonic stock, Danish has admitted many Romanic and other foreign words to the rights of citizenship, such as genera sig (se géner), Kandidat (candidat), Konto'r (comptoir), Kritz'k (critique), Koarter (quartier), Pmst (presbyter); but some of these have I 2 1. LANGUAGE OF NORWAY. been introduced more from fashion than necessity, and words of purely native growth are to be found in every branch of art and science. The following lines by Norwegian poets may be quoted here as a specimen of the modern language common to Norway and Denmark: — ‘Min norske Vinter er saa vakker: De hvide snebedeekte Bakker Og grgmne Gran med pudret I-l'aar Og- trofast ls paa dybe Vande 0g Engledragt paa neigne Strande Jeg bytter neppe mod en Vaar". J. N. Brun. Literal translation: My Norwegian winter is so beauti- ful: the White, snow-clad hills, and green pines with powdered hair, and stedfast ice on deep lakes, and angel- garb on barren shores, I would hardly exchange for spring. A knowledge of the language Ja! herligt er mit Fcdeland, Den gamle klippefaste Norge Med Sommerdal og Vinterborge, Der evig trodser Tidens Tand. Om Kloden rokkes end, dets Fjelde Skal Stormen dog ej kunne faelde'. S. O. Wolfl’. Literal translation: Yes! glorious is my native land, the ancient cliff—bound Norway, with summer valley and winter fastness, which ever defies the tooth of time. Even if the globe be shaken, the storm shall be unable to overthrow its mountains. of the country will conduce ma- terially to the traveller’s comfort and enjoyment. English is spoken at the principal resorts of travellers and by the captains of most of the steamboats, but on the less frequented routes and particularly at the small country-stations the native tongue alone is understood. The traveller should therefore endeavour to learn some of the most useful and everyday phrases which he is likely to require on his journey. Those who are already acquainted with German or Dutch will find the language exceedingly easy and interesting, as the great majority of the words of which each of these languages con— sists are derived from the same Gothic stock as Danish. A still higher vantage-ground is possessed by" those who have studied Ice- landic, or even the kindred Anglo-Saxon, the former being the direct ancestor of the language of Norway. Those, on the other hand, who are tolerably proficient in Swedish, will understand and be understood with little difflculty in Norway, though much less readily in Denmark. Conversely, the traveller who has learned Danish with the Norwegian accent will generally find it intelligible to Swedes, and will himself understand Swedish fairly well; but Danish acquired in Denmark will be found very unsatisfactory in Norway and still more so in Sweden. The traveller who takes an interest in the language, which throws light on many English words, and particularly on English and Scotch provincialisms, should be provided both with an Eng- lish-Danish (Rosing’s, 3rd edit. ; Copenhagen, 1869) and Danish- English dictionary (Fcrrall &Repp’s, 3rd edit. ; Copenhagen, 1867), and with Ivar Aasen’s copious and instructive ‘Norsk Ordbog’ (2nd edit., Christiania, 1873). Rask’s Grammar, Fradersdorff’s Practi— cal Introduction, and Bojesen’s Guide are also recommended to the notice of students of Danish. For the use of ordinary travellers, I. LANGUAGE or NORWAY. 3 however, the following outline of the grammar and the vocabularies, though necessarily brief and imperfect, will probably suffice. Pronunciation. The GoNsoNAN'rs and their pronunciation are nearly all the same as in English; but f at the end of a word is pronounced like o,- 9 before 0 and i and at the end of a syllable is often pronounced like 3;; j is pronounced like the English y ,- k be- fore e, i, j, y, (r, and a is (in Norway) pronounced like the Eng- lish t followed by the consonant y, or nearly like the English ch,- sic before the same vowels is pronounced like the English sh,- while 0 (like 8 before 0, i, y, (2, and a, and like It before a, o, u, and aa), q, ac, and z are used in words of foreign origin only. The chief irregularities are that d at the end or in the middle of a syllable is generally mute, as Fladbmd (pron. Flabre), sidst (pron. sist), hende (pron. henne); g at the end of a syllable is often in- audible, as deilig (pron. deili), farlig (pron. farli), while eg is softened to 62', as jeg (pron. jei), egen (pron. eien), and, in con- versation, mig, dig, sig are corrupted to mei, dei, sei; s after r is pronounced almost like sh,- lastly, in det, the t is usually mute, and de is pronounced di (dee). The VowELs a, e, and 2' are pronounced (as in French and Ger- man) ah, eh, ee; 0 is sometimes pronounced 00 (as in boot), some- times 0 (as in hole), and when short it is like the short English 0 (in hot), but less open; in m‘, ei, oi, each letter is pronounced distinctly; u, when long, is somewhat like the u in lute, with an approach to the French u, and when short it resembles the French on or the English 1 in bird; y , when long, is like the French u, and when short it is indistinguishable from the short a. The sound of aa is that of the long English 0; a? is like e, but more open (as in where); a, sometimes written 6 when the sound is more open, has the sound of the German 6 or the French eu. These two last letters are placed at the end of the alphabet, a peculiarity which consulters of a Danish dictionary must bear in mind. —— Those who have studied French or German will have no difficulty with the y and the 6, but it is not so easy to catch the precise sound of the u, and it requires some practice to distinguish be- tween words in which 0 is pronounced 00 and those in which it pronounced as in English. Genders. There are two genders, the common (including mas- culine and feminine) and the neuter. ‘ Articles. The INDEFINITE is en (c.) or at (n.), as en Mand (a man), en Kvinde (a woman), at Barn (a child). The DEFINITE is den (0.), det (n.), de (pl.), which forms are used almost exclusively when an adjective intervenes between the article and the substantive, as den gode Mand (the good man), det unge Barn (the young child), dc gamle Konger (the old kings). When immediately connected with its substantive, the definite article is -m or -n, —et or -t, and -na 01' -cne, added as an affix to Is 4 I. LANGUAGE OF NORWAY. the substantive, as Mandcn the man), Barnet the child), Kongerne (the kings), Gaardene'(the farm—houses). Substantives. All substantives are spelled with an initial capi- tal. The genitive, both singular and plural, usually ends in s, as Kongens Mildhed (the king’s clemency), Mamdenes Heste (the men’s horses). All nouns ending in 6 form their plural by adding r, as Konge, -r, Kvz'nde, -r; others add er, as Blomst, -er,- others 6, as Best, -e; and many neuter nouns remain unchanged in the plural, as Sprog (language), Hus (house). Lastly, a number of substan- tives modify their radical vowel in the plural, as Haand (hand), Hoender, Fod (pron. 00; foot), Fb'dder, Bog (pron. 0; book), Beyer, Barn (child), Born. In many cases the consonant is doubled in order to preserve the short sound of the vowel, as Hat (hat), -te, Ven (friend), -ner, Gut (Norw., boy), -ter. Adjectives. Those derived from proper names are not spelled with initial capitals (as norsk, Norwegian ; engelsk, English). When . preceded by the indefinite article, the adjective remains unchanged in the common gender, but t is added to it in the neuter, as an god Hest, ct stort (large) Hus; if, however, the adjective terminates in c, 0, u, or y, it remains unchanged in both genders, as en title Hest, et title Barn, en sky (shy) Host, ct bly (shy) Barn; but ny (new) has the neuter nyt. When preceded by the definite article, and in the plural whether with or without article, adjectives have an 6 added, unless they terminate in e, 0, u or y; as den gode Heat, det store Hus, de smuklce smaa Bern (the pretty little children), 'vakre (contracted from oaklcer -e) Fjords (beautiful bays). When standing alone after the substantive as a predicate the adjective usually agrees with the substantive in gender and number, as Huset er (is) start, Hestene er store. The COMPARATIVE and SUPERLATIVE are formed by adding re or are and rt or est to the positive; as glad (glad), gladerc, gladest; rig (rich), rigerc, rigest; but in some cases they are formed by prefixing mEr and mEst to the positive, as elsket (beloved), mer elsket, mest elskct. The radical vowel is sometimes modified; as stor, sterre, sterst; faa (few), fcerrc, fazrrest. Several adjectives are irregularly compared: god, bedre, bedst; 0nd (bad), vwrre, vaarst; gammcl (old), aeldre, aztdst; lilla (small), mindre, mindst; megen, meget (much), mer, mest; mange (many), flare, flestc. Numerals. The CARDINAL NUMBERS are: an or can (11. at), to, tre, fire, fem, sex, sy'v, otte, m‘, ti, elleve, tolv, tretten, fjorten, femten, sexton, syttcn, atten, nitten, tyoe (twenty); en og tyoe, to og tyve , etc. ; treti (tredive); firti (fyrrety've), femtz' (or hal'vtresind- signs, a‘. e. ‘halfway between twice and three times twenty’, or ‘thrice twenty all but a half of twenty’; the word used in Den- mark, and often contracted to halvtres), sexti (tresindstyve, or tres), sytti (halvfiersindstyve, or haloflers), otti (firsindstyve, or firs), nitti (halofemsindstyve, or halvfems), hundrede, tusindc. r. LANGUAGE OF NORWAY. 5 ORDINAL NUMBERS. Den, det, de første, anden (pl. andre), tredie, fjerde, femte, sjette, syvende, ottende, niende, tiende, ellevte, tolvte, etc., tyvende, trediende, firtiende, femtiende (or halvfre- sindstyvende), etc. , hundrede and tusinde undergo no alteration. FRACTIONS. En halv (1/2, adj. , the subst. is en Halvdel), halv- anden (11/2, ‘another all but half’); halvtredie (21/2, ‘a third all but half’), or to og en halv; halvfjerde, or tre og en halv; en Tre- diedel (1/3), en Fjerdedel (1/4, or en I'Ijerding, en Kvart, or et Kvar- ter), en Femtedel ; and so on, del (part) being added to the ordinals. Pronouns. PERSONAL. Nom. sing. jeg (l), du (thou), han (he), hun (she), den or det (it), pl. vi, I, de. Acc. sing. mig, dig, ham, or sig, hende or sig, den or det; pl. os, eder, dem or sig. Gen. sing. hans, hendes, dens or dets; pl. deres (their). Sig is always reflexive, referring to the nominative or subject (himself, herself, itself, themselves). Members of the same family and intimate friends address each other as Du, pl. I, but in or- dinary society De (literally ‘they’), with the verb in the singular, is always used. In this sense the accusative of De is Dem, never sig; as De har skadet Dem (you have hurt yourself). POSSESSIVE. Min (my), mit, pl. mine; din (thy), dit, pl. dine,- sin (his, her, or its), sit, pl. sine; vor (our), vort, pl. vore;jer (your), jert, pl. jere (colloquial), deres (their), Deres (your, in the polite form of address). DEMoNsTRATIvE. Den, det (this), pl. de; denne, dette (that), pl. disse; hin or hiin, hint (that), pl. hine; samme (same), selv (self), and begge (both) are indecl'inable, saadan, saadant (such a one), pl. saadane. RELATIVES. Som (Who, whom, which, nom. and acc.) and der (who, which, noni. only) are indeclinablo, hvilken, hvilke, hvilket (who, whom, which, nom. or acc.), pl. hvilke; hvis (whose, of which, sing. or pl.); hvad (what), indeclinable. INTERROGATIVES. Hvo or hvem (who, whom), indeclinable, hvilken, hvilket, pl. hvilke (which, nom. or acc.), hvad (what). INDBFINITE. Man (one, they, nom. only), en or et (one), nogen (some, somebody, some one), noget (some, something), pl. nogle; ingen (no, nobody, none), intet (no, nothing, none), no plural; anden, andet (other), pl. andre; hver, hvert, enhver, enhvert each, every; each one, every one), al, alt (all), pl. alle; det, der (it, with impers. verbs), as det regnes (it rains), der siges (it is said), der skrives (it is written). Verbs. AUXILIARY. At have (to have), pres. indic. har, pl. have; imperf. havde; perf. har or have havt,- fut. vil or skall, pl. ville or skulle, have; imperat. hav, pl. have; partic. havende, havt. At være (to be), pres. ind. er, pl. ere; irnperl'. var, pl. være; perf. har or have været; fut. vil or skall, ville or skulle, være; im- perat. vær, pl. værer. 6 I. LANGUAGE or NORWAY. At skulle (to be about to, to be obliged); pres. skall, pl. skulle; imperf. skulde ,- perf. bar or have skullet. At ville (to be about to, to be willing); pres. vil, pl. ville; imperf. vilde; perf. har or have villet. At kunne (to be able); pres. kan, pl. kunne ; imperf. kunde; perf. har or have kunnet; fut. vil or shall, ville or skulle, kunne. At maatle (to be obliged); pres. maa (must); imperf. maatte ,- perf. har or have maattet. At twrde (to be allowed, to dare); pres. tar (may, dare); im- perf. t'wrde (might, dared). At burde (to be bound, to be under an obligation); pres. ber (ought, eto.); imperf. burde (ought etc.). The verb faae (to get), with the perfect participle, expresses futurity, as naar jeg faaer skrevel (when I shall have written). The verb blive (to become) is sometimes used to form the passive voice, as han bliver, blev skadet (he is, was hurt). CONJUGATIONS. The conjugations are either weak or strong, regular or irregular, and under each of these heads there are sev- eral subdivisions. The first and second of the three following verbs are weak (i. e. with the imperf. formed by the addition of ede or te, and the partic. by the addition of el, or t to the root), and the third and fourth are strong (i. e. where the imperf. takes no affix whether modifying the radical vowel or not). Elske (love): pres. elske'r, elske; imperf. elslcede ; perf. har or have elsket ; partic. elskel, pl. (when used as adj.) elskede. Tale (speak); pres, taler, tale ; imperf. talte; perf. how or have talt; partic. tall, pl. talte. Komme (come); pres. kommer, komme; imperf. kom; perf. er kommen, neut. Icommet, pl. ere komne. Sljazle (steal); pres. stjceler, stjazle; imperf. stjal; perf. km‘ or have stjaalet; partic. used as adj. stjaalen, stjaalet, sljaalne. The imperfect participle is formed by adding nde to the infini- tive (as elksende, kommende). The imperative singular is the root (as tal, stjcel), to which er is added in the plural (as elske'r, komme'r). Elskes (be loved); pres. elskes, or bliver elsket, blive elsltede; imperf. elskedes or blev elskel, blev elskede. Tales (be spoken); pres. tales, or bliver talt, blive talte; im- perf. taltes, or blev tall, blev talte. The following List of Verbs in frequent use includes a number of weak and strong, regular and irregular. The infinitive, imper- fect, and participle of each are given. When the participle ends in -t, the usual auxiliary is have, when it ends in -n, -ne, the auxiliary is van-e. Accompany, ledsage, ledsagede, ledsaget. Alight, stige ned (steg, steg-en, -et, me),- stige ud. Arrive, ankomme, ankom, a-nkom-men, -met, -ne. Ascend, mount, stige, steg, stag-en, ~et, -ne. Ask, sperge, spurgte, spurgt. Awake (trans.), vwkke, vakte, valet. I. LANGUAGE 'oF NORWAY. 7 Become, blive, blev, blev-en, -et, -ne. Beg, bede, bad, bedt, -e. Believe, tree, troede, troet. Bind, binde, bandt, bundet, band—en, -et, -ne. Blow, blwse, blazstc, blaest. Boil, koge, kogte, kogt. Break, brakke, brak, b'razkket, bruit-ken, -ket, -ne,- slage itu (slog, slaget, slag-en, -et, ~ne). Bring, bringe, bragte, bragt. Buy, Iwpe, Iwpte, kept. Call, shout, raabe, 'raabte, raabt, -e; see also ‘name’. Garry, barre, ba'r, baa'ret, baar—en, -et, -ne. Change, skifte, ski/‘tede, skiftet; bytte, byttede, byttet; change (money) oexle, verlede, vexlet. Come, komme, kom, kom-men, -met, -ne. Count, tazlle, talte, talt. Cost, koste, Icostete, kostet. Gut, slcjazre, skar, skaaret, skaar-en, -et, ~ne. Demand, ask (a price, etc.), forlange, forlangte, forlangt, -e. Depart, see ‘start’. Descend, stige ned (steg, stegen). Dismount, stige af, stige ned. Do, gjare; pres. gjar, gjare; gjorde, gjort. Drink, drikke, drak, drukket, druk-ken, -ket, -ne. Drive (a carriage), kjare, kjarte, kjart, -e. Dry, tarre, terrede, terret. Eat, spise, spiste, spist, -e, or a'de, aad, aadt, -e. Fear, frygte, fr'ygtede, frygtet. Find, finde, fand, fundet, fund-en, -et, -ne. Fish, fiske, fiskede, fisk-et, -ede. Follow, felge, fulgte, fulgt, -e. Forget, glcmme, glemte, glemt, -e. Freeze, fryse, fres, fruss-en, -et, -nc. Get, faa, file, faaet; get down, stige ned (stag, stag-en, -et, -ne),- get in, stige ind,- get up, stigc 0p; get on, komme frem (kom, kom- men). Give, give, ga'v, givet, giv-en, -et, -ne. Go, gaa, gik, gaaet. Help, hjcelpe, hjalp, hjulpet, hjulp-en, -et, -ne. Hire, hyre, hyrede, hy'ret; leie, leiede, leiet. Hold, holde, holdt, holdt, -e. Hope, haabe, haabede, haabet. Jump, springe, sprang, sprunget, sprung-en, -et, -ne. Keep, beholde, beholdt, beholdt. Knock, bankc, bankede, banket. Know (a fact), vide; pres. oEd, oide; m'dste, vidst; (a person, a place, etc.) lcjende, Icjente, kjent. Lay, put, laegge, lagte, lagt, lagd, -e; lay hold, tage fat paa (see ‘take’). Learn, lure, lazrte, leert. Leave, forlade; leavebehind, efterlade; see ‘let’. Let, lade, lod, ladet, ladt, -e; let go, let fall, slippe, slap, sluppet, slap—pen, -pet, —ne. Lie, ligge, lag, ligget. Light, kindle, tamde, tamdte, tcendt, -c. Like, syncs (0m), syntes; or like (Norw.), Likte, likt. Lose, tabe, tabte, tabt, -e. Make, see ‘do’. Mend, istandswtte (sat, sat),- reparere, re- parerede, repa'reret; udbedre, udbedrede, udbedret. Mistake, make a mistake, tage fail (tog, taget). Mount, stige, steg, stegen; (on horseback) sidde op (sad, siddet). Name, call, kalde, kaldte, kaldt, -e. Named or called (to be), hedde, hed, hedt, -e. Open, aabne, aabnete, aabnet, -e. Order, bestille, bestillcde, bcstillet. . Pay, betalc, bctalte, betalt, -e. Pronounce, udtale, udtalte, ud- talt, -e. Put, mite, sat, sat, -tc; see also ‘lay’; put to (horses), spande, spwndte, spandt. 8 I. LANGUAGE or NORWAY. Rain, regne, regnete, regnet. Read, lazse, lcrste, laest. Reckon, regne, regnede, regnet. Require, behave, behevde, beheot, -e. Rest, hvile, hvz'lede, hvilt. Return (intr.), ko'mrne or gaa tilbage. Ride, ride, red, redet, red-en, -et, -ne. Roast, siege, stegte, stegt. Row, roe, roede, roet. Run, lebe, Zeb, lebt. Say, sige, sagte, sagt, -e. See, see, saa, seet, -e. Seek, sege, segte, segt. Sell, seelge, solgte, solgt. Send, sende, sendete, sendet, -e. Set, see ‘put’. Shoot, skyde, skjed, skudt, -e. Shut, tukke, luk- kede, lukk-et, -ede. Sit, sidde, sad, siddet. Sleep, sooe,sov, so'uet. Smoke (intrans.), ryge, reg, reget; (trans) rege, regte, regt. Snow, sne, snZte, snEt. Speak, tale, talte, talt, -e. Stand, staae, stod, staaet. Start, afgaa, afgik, afgaaet ,- or gaa bort, gaa al'sted. Stop (trans. or intrans.), standse,'standsede, stands-et, -ede. Take, tuge, tog, toge, taget, tag—en, -et, —ne ,- take care of, serge, sergede, sergt (for). Think. ttrnlce, ttenlcte, toenkt. Travel, reise, reiste, reist. Try, forsege, forsegede, forsegt. Understand, forstaae, forstod, forstaa-et, —ede. Use, bruge, br'ugede, brugt. — Wait, 'vente, oentete, 'ventet. Wash, eudske, oadskede, vadsk-et, -ede. Wish, enslce, ensleede, ensk-et, -ede. Write, skri've, skren, skrevet, slcrev-en, et, -ne. Adverbs. The neuter forms of adjectives are used as adverbs; as gdd (good), gddt (well); langsom (slow), langsomt(slowly); and such adverbs take the same comparative and superlative as the ad- jectives. Godt or eel has bedre, bedst ,- ilde (ill), like ond or clear- lig, has rvcerre, ocPrst; gjerne (willingly), hellere (rather), helst (most willingly, rather, especially). The following are in very frequent use: -- PLACE. About, orntrent; above, ovenpaa; after, efter; around, omkring; at home, hjemme (indicating rest, like several other ad- verbs ending in e, While Without the e they indicate motion); away, bort, borte; back, tilbage; below, nedenunder; down, ned, nede; everywhere, were“; far, langt; far from here, far distant, ‘langt herfra; here, her ,- home, hjem ,- in, ind, inde; near, na’r ; nowhere, ingensteds ,- out, ud, ude ; past, forbi ,- there, der; thither, did,- up, 0p, oppe; where, h'vor; within, inde. . __ TIME. About, omtrent; afterwards, sidcn efter; again, atter, igjen; always, altz'd; already, alterede; before, fer; early, tidligt; immediately, straw,- last year, i/‘jor; late, sEnt; long, lcenge; near- ly, naesten; never, aldrz'g; now, nu,- often, ofte, tidt; once, engang; seldom, sjazlden; sometimes, undertiden; soon, snort,- still, endnu; the day after to-morrow, io'vermorgen; the day before yesterday, iforgaars; then, do, paa, den Tid; this evening, ia/‘ten; this morning, imorges; to-day, idag; to-morrow, imorgen; twice,-to Gange ,- when (interrogative), naar, h'vad Tid ,- yesterday, igaar. MANNEB, DEGREE, etc. A little, noget ; also, ogsaa; also not, halter, ilcke; altogether, i Alt, i det hele tagit, altsammen; broken 11. LANGUAGE OF swEnEN. 9 (in two), itu; downhill, nedad (Bakken) ,- how, h'uofrledes; little, lidt; much, meget; no, nej; not, ikke; not at all, slet 270106; of course, naturligvis; only, kun; particularly, iscer; partly, de'ls," perhaps, kanske, maaslce ,- possibly, mulz'gvis; probably, 'rz'melz'gvis; quickly, hurtigt (fdrt); so, thus, saaledes; softly (gently, slowly), sagte ,- straight on, lige/‘rem; together, tilsammen; too (much, etc.), for (meget, etc.); uphill, opad (Bakken); very, meget; why, hoor- /'or; yes, ja, jo (the latter being used in answer to a question in the negative or expressing doubt). Prepositions. Among the most frequent are : —— About, cm; above, over; after, ef'ter; among, blandt; at, 2', pad, oed; at (of time), 0m; behind, bag; between, mellem; by, at the house of, hos; by, near, awed; by, past, forbi; during, 0m, under,- for, in front of, for; from, ['m; in, i,- instead of, istedenfor; near, now, 'ued ,- of, from, af; on, pad,- opposite, ligeove'rfor; over, upwards of, over; past, forbi; round, rundt 0m; since, siden: through, gjennem; till, indtit (not till, ilclce fer) ,- to, til; towards, mod,- under, under,- upon, pad,- with, med. conjunctions. The most important are: ~— After, e/Zemt; although, skjendt; and, og; as, dd; as —— as, saa —— som; because, fordi; before, far,- but, men ,- either —- or, enten —— eller; for, the"; if, 0m, derso'm, hvis; in order that, for at; or, eller; since (causal), fordz', efterdi, (of time) siden; so, sad,- than, end; that, at; till, until, indtil; when (with past tense) da, (with present or future) near,- where, hvor; while, medens. Interjections. Ah, alas, alt; indeed, z‘h, jasaa, 'vi'rkelig; not at all, far from it, don’t mention it, langt i/‘m, ingen Aa/rsag; of course, certainly, kors, bevars; pardon, 0m Forladelse; please, van" saa good, 'va’r saa a'rtig; thanks, Talc (many, mange); true, det er ,sandt; what a pity, det er Synd ! v 11. Language of Sweden. The remarks already made on the origin of the Danish language and on the peculiarities of its pronunciation apply almost equally to the Swedishlanguage. The latter, however, is derived much more purely and directly from the original Gothic tongue, and is therefore much more interesting to philologists. , Articles. The IINDEPINITE ARTICLE is (In. and f.) en, ett; as en kart, a man; ett barn, a child. ~ The DEFINITE ARTICLE is (m. or f.) en (or n after a vowel), and et or ett, affixed to the substantive; as konungen, the king; flickan, the girl. Preceding an adjective, the definite article is (m. or f.) den, (n.) det, (pl.) de; but the substantive which fol- lows still retains its affix; as den gode konungen, det Lilla bamet (the little child), de skiina flickoma (the pretty girls). Substantives. The genitive, both singular and plural, usual-1y 10 II. LANGUAGE 0F SWEDEN. ends in s ; as barnets mode'r, konungens godhed, presternas bb'clcar (the priests’ books). The plural is formed by adding or, or, er, or n ,- but it is some- times the same as the singular, especially in the case of neuter substantives; as krona, kronor; gosse (boy), gossar; lind lime- tree), lindar; prest, prester; knc'i (knee), knc'in; has (house , pl. has. Among the irregular plurals the commonest are man, man ; iiga (eye), iigon; lira (car), iii-on; bok (book), biickar; fot (foot), fdtter ,- nat (night), ndtter; gds (goose), gc'iss. Adjectives. After the indefinite article the adjective under- goes no change, except in the neuter gender, in which case t is added; as en any man, en skiin flicka, ett artigt barn (a good child). The neuterof liten (little) is litet, of mycken (much) mycket. After the definite article the adjective takes the affix e or a in the masculine, and a in the feminine or neuter; as den gode man- nen, den slco'na flicka, det artiga barnet. When following the de- finite article liten becomes lilla (pl. smd). For all genders the plural is de goda, de skiina, de artiga, de smd. The COMPARATIVE and SUPERLATIVE are formed by adding are and asl to the positive; as 'rolig (quiet), roliga're, roligast; ringa (small, insignificant), 'ringare, ringast. Irregular are: god (good . ba'ttre, ba'st ,- ddlig (bad), séimre, sa'mst, or va'rre, vc'irst; liig (low), lc'ig're, ldgst; ldng (long), la'ngre, la'ngst; liten (small), mindre, minst ,- smi’z (small, pl.), smdr're; fd (few), fa'nre ; mycken (much), mer, meal,- mdnga (many), fle-re, de fleste; stor (large), stiirre, stiirst; gammal (old), c'ildre, a'lst; ung (young), yngre, yngsl; tang (heavy), tyngre, tyngst. Numerals. The CARDINAL NUMBERS are: en or elt, tvd, tre, fyra, fem, sex, sju, dtta, nio, tio, elfva, tolf, tretton, fjorlon, fem- ton, sexton, sjutton, aderton, nitton, tjugu (20); tjug-u en, etc. ; tretti, fyratio (pron. fdrti), femtio, sextio, sjultio, dttatio (dtlio), nittio, hundra, tusen, en million. The ORDINAL NUMBERS are: den fiirste, den, det fdrsta; den andre, den, det andra (en annan, ett annat); tredje, fierde, femte, sjette, sjunde, dttonde, nionde, tionde, elfte, tolfle, trettonde, fijort— onde etc.; tjugonde (20th), tjugu fiirste etc. ; trettionde, fyrtionde etc.; hand-rude, tusende. FRAo'rIoNs. En half (1/2, adj.; the subst. is en ha'lft), half- annan (11/2); en tredjedel (1/3 rd), en flierdedel ('/4 th), etc. Pronouns. PERSONAL. Nom. sing. jag (I), du (thou), han (he), hon (she), det (it); nom. pl. vi, 2', de. Acc. sing. mig, dig, honom, henne, det; acc. pl. 083, eder, dem. Gen. sing. hans, hennes, data,- gen. pl. deras (their). Refl. acc. sig (himself, herself, itself, them- selves). Hvarandm (one another). Du is used in addressing near relatives and intimate friends. Ni, corresponding with the Danish De (you), with the plural number, is used in addressing strangers; but it is more polite to II. LANGUAGE OF SWEDEN. 11 use the awkward periphrasis herrn er, har, etc., frun er, fröken er, or better still the person’s title, if known, as vill herr öfversten vara så god (Will the colonel be so kind)? Mig, dig, sig are pronounced mei, dei, sei (almost like the French pays). De is often pronounced dee, and det day. PossBssrvE. Min (my), mitt, pl. mina; din (thy), ditt, pl. dina; hans (his), hennes (her), dets (its), sin (his, her, its, their; refl. only), sitt, sina; vår (our), vårt, våra; eder (your), edert, edra (er, ert, era). DEMONSTRATIVE. Denne, denna (this), detta, pl. desse, dessa; den, det her (this here), pl. de her; den, det der (that there), pl de der ,- den, det, de samme (the same). RELATIVE. Som (who, Whom, which), nom. and aee. only; hvilken, hvilket (who, whom, which), pl. hvilka; hvad (what). INTERROGATIVE. Hvem (who), hvems (whose), hvad (what), hvilk-en, -et, -a (which). INDEFINITE. Man (one), sjelf (self), någon (some, somebody), något (some, something), några (pl., some), ingen (no, nobody), intet (no, nothing), inga (pl., no), mången (many a one), många (many); all, allt (all); hvar, hvart (each, every), hvar och (pron. ok) en (one and all), hel, helt (Whole), hele (pl., whole). Verbs. AUXILIARY. Att hafva (to have). Pres. indie. jag, du, han, hon, det, Ni har; vi ha (or havfa), i han (hafven), de ha (hafva). Imperf. jag, etc., hade; vi hade,- i haden; de hade. Fut. jag, etc., skall hafva,- i skolen hafva; de skola hafva. Condit. jag, etc., skulle hafva ; vi skulle hafva; i skallen hafva; de skulle hafva, Imper. haf (ha), pl. hafven. Partie. hafvande, haft. Att vara (to be). Pres. indie. jag, etc., är; vi äro, iären, de äro. Imperf. jag, etc., var; vi voro, i voren, de voro. Perf. jag, etc., har varit. Imperf. jag hade varit. Fut. jag skall vara. Cond. jag skulle vara. Imper. var, varen. Partic. varande, varit. Att skola (to be obliged, to be about to), pres. skall, skola; imperf. skulle; partic. skolande, skullet. Att vilja (to be willing, to be about to), pres. vill, vilja; im- perf. ville; partic. viljande, velat. Att kunna (to be able), pres. kann, pl. kunna; imperf. kunde; partic. kunnat. Att må (to be obliged), pres. må; imperf. måste. Att töra (may, to be allowed), pres. tör; imperf. torde. Att böra (to be bound, obliged), pres. bör (ought); imperf. borde (ought). The ÛONJUGATIONS are either weak or strong, regular or irre- gular. The following three verbs are weak and regular: Infinitive. Att älska (to love), böje (bend), bo (live). Pres. indie. Jag, du, han älskar, böjer, bor; vi, de älska, böja, bo,- i älsken, böjen, bon. . Å Imperf. Jag, du, han, vi, de älskade, böjde, bodde; iälskaden, 12 n. LANGUAGE 0F SWEDEN. biijden, bodden. l’erf. .lag har iilskat, bo'jt, bott. Fut. Jag skall ('itska, bo'je, b0. Imper. Atslca, biij, bo; oitslcen, bo'jen, bon. l’artic. Atslcande, bo'jende, boende; a'tskat, bbjt, bott. Most of the Swedish verbs are conjugated like (itska. Those whose roots end in It, p, s, or t form the imperfect by adding te, and the participle by adding t; as Icb'pe, kiipte, kbpt. The passive is formed by adding s: jag ('itskas (I am loved), t'itslcades (was loved), har (ilskats (have been loved), t'itslcandes (being loved). The passive may also be formed with the auxiliary bti/"va (to be, become): jag btir (itslcad (I am loved), bte/‘filskad (was loved). The following List of Verbs in frequent use includes a num- ber of regular, strong, and irregular verbs. The present indicative, which is generally formed from the infinitive by adding r, the imperfect, the perfect participle used. with haf'va, and the perfect participle used with 'uara are given in each case. When the parti- ciple ends in n, the neuter usually changes the n to t, and the plural ends in ne or na. Arrive, anlcommer, ankom (pl. ankommo), anlcommit, an- kommen; or intrt'i/far, intrd/fade, intrii/fat. Ascend, stiger (app), steg (stego), stegt't, stegen. Ask, /'rdgar, frdgade, frdgat. Awake (trans.), 'vt'iclcar, 'ut'iekade, oa'ckat. Become, btir (vi bti/iva, inf. btifoa), blef, bti/‘uz't, bte’ven. Beg, ber (vi bedje or be, inf. bedja), bad (vi bddOih bedt,‘ bedd. Bind, binder, band (vi bundo), bandit, bunden. Blow, bldser, bldste, bldst. Boil, kokar, kokte, kokt. Break, brytar, brytade, brytat. Bring, bringer, bragte, bragt (bringat). Buy, Itiipa, kiipte, ko'pt. Call, shout, ropa, ropte, ropt; see also ‘to name’. Carry, br'ir (inf. bdra), bar (buro), burit, buren. Change, bytar, bytade, bytat; change (money), oerlar, oertade, oertat; change (alter), /" firfindrar, fo'ra'ndrade, fo'rt'indrat. Come, kommer, Itom (Icommo), kommit, kommen. Count, tt'itjar, ta'tjade, ta'tjt. Cost, kostar, Icostade, kostat. Cut, sit/fir (inf. ska'ra), sitar (skuro), skurit, skuren. Demand (ask a price etc.), fordrar, fordrade, fordrat. Depart, afresar, afreste, afrest ; or gdr bort, resar bort. Descend, stiger ned (see ‘ascend’). Dismount, stiger ned, stiger af (hesten), sitter af (see ‘sit’). Do, gdr (inf. gijra), gjorde, gjordt, gjord. Drink, dricker, drack (drucko), druclcit, drueken. Drive (a carriage), kdrer, kb'rte, kdrt. Dry, torkar, torkade, torkat. Eat, spiser, spiste, spist, or titer, c°tt (dto), c'itit, dten. _ Fear, fruktar, frulctade, fruktat. Find, finner, fann, funnit, funnen. Fish, fiskar, fiskte, fisleet. Follow, fiitjer, fiitjtejiiljt. Forget, gliimmar, gldmte, gtr'imt. Freeze, fryser, fro's (fro'so), frusit, frusen. Get, fdr, ficlc (fingo), fdtt; get up, down, in, stiger upp, ned, in; get on, kommer fram. Give, ger (gifver; inf. ge, gif'va), gaf (git/"00), gifvit, gifven. Go, gdr, giclc (gingo), gt'ttt, gdngen. ~ Help, hjelper, halp (hutpo), hutpit, hulpen. Hire, hyrar, hyrade, n. LANGUAGE OF SWEDEN. 13 hyrat. Hold, hdtler, hiitt (hotto), hdltit, hdtlen. Hope, hoppas (a ‘deponent’ verb, used in the passive form only), hoppades, hoppats. Keep, behdlter, beholt (behdlto), behdtlit, behdtlen. Knock (at a door), klappar, klappade, ktappat. Know (a fact), vet (inf. veta), nisste, oetat. Know (a person, a thing), kr'inner, kc'innte, kc'innt. Lay, put, tc'igger, lagde, lagt, lagd,-. lay hold of, tager fatt pd (see ‘take’). Learn, lc'irar (mtg), Zdrte, tr'irt, ldrd. Leave, lemnar, ternnade, lemnat ; leave behind, temna q'var. Let, tc'zter, hit (him), ldtit ,- let go (get rid of), sldppar, slt'ippade, slc'ippat. Lie, tiggar, ldg (tdgo), legat. Light, tdndar, ta-ndte, tdndt. Like, tyclcar (0m), tyclcte, tycltt. Lose, fdrlorar, fdrtorade, fdrlorat. Make, see ‘do’. Mean, menar, mente, ment. Mend, sd'tteri stdnd (see ‘set’), or reparerar, reparerade, reparerat. Mistake, make amistake, misstagar mtg, see ‘take’. Mount, stige, steg (stego), stigit, stegen; (on horseback) sitte upp, see ‘sit’. Name, call, Icaltar, Icaltade, kattat; to be named (to signify), hater, hette, hetat. - Open, iippnar, 6ppnade, o'Ppnat. Order, bestdtlar, bestc'itlte, bestrfittt. Pay, betdtar, betalade, betatat. Pronounce, uttalar, uttalade, uttalat. Put, séitter, satte, satt; see also ‘lay’; put to .(horses), spdnna for, spéinnte, spiinnt. Rain, (det) regnar, regnade, regnat. Read, ldser, le'iste (or las, no pl.), ldst, ldsen. Reckon, réilcnar, rr'ikndde, rdlcnat. Require, bchd/‘uar, beho'f'uade, beho'fuat. Rest, hm'tar, hvilade, hvz'tat. Re- turn (intr.), 'vdndar (0m), vdndte, vdndt ,- or resar (reste, rest) tit- baka. Ride, rider, red (redo), ridit, riden. Roast, stekar, stelcte, stekt. Row, ror, rodde, rott. Run. liipar, lopp (tupo), lupt't. Say, siigar, sagte, sagt, sagd. See, ser, sdg (sdgo), sett, sedd. Seek, so'ltar, so'lcte, solct. Sell, sc'itjar, sc'itjade, sdlgt. Send, sc'indar, st'indte, sd'ndt; or skiclcar, slciclcte, skickt. Set, sc'itter, satte, satt. Shoot, slcjutar, skjutade, skjutit. Shut, stc'ingar, str'ingte, stc'ingt. Sit, sitter, sdtt (sutto), suttz't (sutit). Sleep, sofrver, 50f (so/"'00), sof'vit. Smoke (intr.) rylca, rb'lt, rukz't; (trans.) rb'lta, ro'lcte, riikt. Snow, (det) sndr (inf. sno'a), sndte, sndt. Speak, talar, tatte, tatt. Stand, stdr, stod, stdtt. Start, afgdr, afgick (afgingo), afgdtt, af- gdngen. Stop (intrans.), stcotrstz'lta (see ‘stand’). Take, tager (or tar), tog (togo), tagit, tagen; take care of, har (hafva) omsorg 0m. Think, tt'inkdr, tt'inlcte, tc'inlct. Travel, resar, reste, rest. Try, fb'rsdlcer, fdrsiilctc, fiirsiikt. Understand, fb'rstdr (like ‘stand’). Use, brukdr, brulcte, brukt. Wait, viintar, 'viintade, vdntat. Wash, t'vc'ittar, tvt'ittade, t'vc'ittat. Wish, onskar, o'rtskade, 5nskat. Write, skri/‘ver, skref (slcrefvo), skri/‘vit, skrifven. Adverbs. The neuter forms of adjectives are used as adverbs; mannen dr c'irlz'g (the man is honest), mannen handtar ('irtz'gt (the man deals honestly). Such adverbs are compared like adjectives. A few are compared irregularly. Godt or edit (well) has bc'ittre, 14 11. LANGUAGE or SWEDEN. bäst; dåligt or illa (ill), värre, värst or sämre, sämst; gerna or gärna (willingly), hällre (rather), hälst (most willingly, especially). PLACE. About, omkring; above, ofvanpå ; after, efter; around, (rundt) omkring; at home, hemma (indicating rest, like several other adverbs ending in a, while without the a they indicate mo- tion); away, bort, borta; back, tillbaka; below, nere; down, ned; far, långt borta, fjärran; here, här; home, hem; in, in, inne; near, när; nowhere, ingenstädes; out, ut, ute; past, förbi; there, der; thither, dit; up, up, uppe; where, hvar; within, inne. TIME. About, omkring; afterwards, sedan; again, igen, åter; always, alltid; already, redan; before, förut; early, tidigt, bittida ; last year, ifjor; late, sënt; long, länge; nearly, nästan; never, aldrig; now, nu; often, ofta; once, en gång; sometimes, stundom; soon, snart; still, ännu; the day after to-morrow, iöfvermorgon ; the day before yesterday, förgår; then, då, på den tid; this evening,’ i afton; this morning, imorse; to-day, idag; to-morrow, imor- gon; twice, två gångar; when (interrog.) när; yesterday, igår. MANNER, DEGREE, etc. A little, något; also, ochså; also not, häller icke; altogether, alltsammans; broken (in. two), i sär; down, downhill, nedåt, nedåt backen; how, huru; little, lidet; much, mycket; no, nej; not, icke; not at all, slätt icke; of course, naturligtvis; only, blott, endast; particularly, synnerligen; partly, dels; perhaps, kanske; possibly, mögligen; probably , sannolikt; quickly, fort, hurtigt; so, thus, således; softly (gently, slowly), sakta; straight on, rakt fram; together, ihop, tillsammans; too, för; too much, för mycket; up, uphill, uppåt, uppåt backen; very, mycket; why, hvarför; yes, ja, jo (the latter in answer to a question in the negative or expressing doubt). Prepositions. About, om; above, öfver; after, efter; at, på, vid; at (of time), om; behind, bak; between, mellan; by, at the house of, hos; by, near, vid, nära; by, past, förbi; during, om, under; for, before, för; from, från; in, i; instead of, i stället för; near, nära, vid; of, from, af; on, på; over, öfver; past, förbi; round, rundt om; since, sedan; through, genom; till, till, intill; to, till; towards, emot; under, under; upon, på; with, med. conjunctions. After, sedan; although, ehuru; and, och; as, då; as-as, så-som; because, emedan; before, för; but, men; either—or, antingen-eller; for, thi ; if, om; in order that, för att ; or, eller; since (causal), emedan; since (of time), sedan; so, så; than, än; that, att; till, until, tills; when (with past tense), då; when (with present or future), när; where, hvar; while, medan. Interjections. Ah, alas, ack; indeed, ja så, verkligen; of course, naturligtvis, ja visst, bevars; pardon, ursäkt; please, var så god; thanks , (jag) tackar, tackar ödmjukast (‘most humbly’); true, det är sandt ; what a pity, det är synd! NORWEGIAN. Vocabulary. ENGLISH. Omtrent (adv.); om About. (Prep-)- Ovenpaa (adv.); over Above. (prep) Ledsage (p. 6). Vant til. Fordel (-en). Accompany. Aooustomed to. Advantage. Efter (adv.); efte'rat After. (oonj.). Eftermiddag (-en). Siden efter. Alter, igjen. Behagelig. Alt Stige ned (p. 6). Noget. Ogsaa; helle'r z'klce. Alle'rede. Skjendt. I Alt, i det hele tagit, altsammen. Altid. Blandt. Morsom. Og. Kjedelig. Soar (-et, pl. S'var). Arm (-en, -e). Omkri'ng. Ankomme (p. 6). Da; saa — som. Stige (p. 6). I Land, paa Landet. Sperge (p. 6). Afternoon. Afterwards. Again. Agreeable. Ah, alas. Alight. A little. Also; also not. Already. Although. Altogether. Always. Among. Amusing. And. Annoying. Answer. Arm. Around. Arrive. As; as -— as. Ascend, mount. Ashore (go), —— (be). Ask. I, paa, ved; (of time) At. m o . Hjemme (p. 8). Veekke (p. 6). Bort, borte. Axel (-en, Axler). .Tilbage. Daarlig, 0nd. Sazk (-ken, -ke). Banksed-el(-eln, -ler). At home. Awake, to (trans) Away. Axle. Back. Bad. Bag. Banknote. 15 SWEDISH. Omlcring ,- 0m. Ofuanpa ,- ofver. Beleclsaga. Van till. Fordel Efter ; sedan. Eftermiddag (111.). Sedan. Igen, ater. Angena'm, behaglig. Ack. Stiga ned (p. 12). Ne'zgot. Ochsa; ha'ller icke. Redan. Ehuru. Alltsammans. Alltid. Ibland. Rolig. Och. Fo'rtretlig. Soar Arm Omk'ring. Ankomma (p. 12). Del,- sa - som. Stiga (p. 12). I land; pa landet. Fraga (p. 12). Pa, vid; 0m. Hemma (p. 14) Viicka (p. 12). Bort, borta. Axel Tillbacka. Dc‘llig. Sack, pc‘ise (m.). Bankseddel 16‘ VOGABULARY. N oEwEGIAN. ENGLISH. Barometer (-ret, -re). Barometer. Botte (-n, -r), Vand- Basin. tad {-et, pl. id.). Karo {-en, -e). Bad (-et, Bad). Vakker, deitig. Fordi. BLi/ve (p. 7). Song {—en, -e). ~Orelcjed (-et) ,- bifstelt. ill (-let). Fer(adv.); for(prep.). Bede (p. 7). Bag. .Troe (p. 7). Nedenunder. Keie (—n, -r). Mettem. Btaabrrr (-et, pl. id.). Jtegning {-en, -er). Bt'nde (p. 7). Smart. Ur/tane {—en, -er). Sengtteppe (—et, -er). BLa'se (p. 7). Btaa. Kost {-En); ombord. Baad {-en, —e). Myr (-en). Koge (p. 7). Bog (-en, Beger). Ste-vte'r. Ftaske (-n, -r)_. Gut {-ten, -ter). Breende'vin {—en), Cog- Basket. Bath. Beautiful. Because. .lecome. Bed. leef; beefsteak. Beer. llefore. Beg. Behind. lelieve. Below. Berth. Between. Bilberry. Bill, account Bind. Black. Blackcock. Blanket. Blow. Blue. loard (food l, on board. Boat. Bog. Boil. Book. Boots. Bottle. Boy. Brandy. nae. Bred ('—et),~ Smer're— Bread; bread and bred. butter. Bra'kke, stage ttu Break. (p. 7). Frukost (-en_). Breakfast. Bro {-en, —er). Bridge. Temme (-n, -r),- Ri- Bridle; bridle-path. de'vei (-en, -e). ' Bringe (p. 7). Bring. SWEDISH. Barometer Fat, be'icken (11.). Korg (111.). Bad (11.). Vaelcer, sleiin. Emedan. Btifua (p. 12). Sting (m.). Qrltdtt. ()t (11.). Fiirut; fiir. Bedja (p. 12) Bait. Tro, mena. Nere. Koj (m.). M'eltan. Btdbdr (11.). Rr'iltnéng (111.). .Binda (p. 12). Stuart. Tj/ider (111.). Seingtr'iclce (11.) Btdsa (p. 12). Btd. Kost (111.); ombord. Bdt (In. ('i'yttja(f. ), sump(m .). Koka (p. 12). Bolt (m.). Stdftar. Butelj (111.). (r'osse (111.). Brc'invin (111.). Briid; smiirgds. Bryta (p. 12). Frokost (m.). Bro Tt'im (m.); ride-viig. Bringa (p. 12). VOCABULARY. n NoRwEGrAN. Itu. Basic (Jam, Jae). Broder, Bror (-en, Breder). Barste (-en, —er). Men. Smar {—et). Kepe (p. Ved (near); forbi (past.); hos (at the house of). Raabe (p. 7). Lys {-at). Hue {-en, -er). Tiur (-en, -er). Agt (-en); tag Dem i Agt. Agtsom. Vogn (-en, -e). Kariol (-en, -er). 'Bazre (p. 7). Kjazrre {-n, -er),- Stotkjarre. Bestemt. Stol (-en, -e). Sicifte, (money) vexle (P- 7)- Smaapenge. Pris {—en, -e-r). Billig. Ost (-en),- Gammelost. Kirsebaer (-et ,- pl. id.). Kylting (-en, -er). Barn (-et, Bern). Cigar {-ren, -rer). Klasse (-'n, -r); farste, anden K lassens Bit- jet. Ren. Ktar. Kta’der. Muttebazr (-et, pl.id.). Kiole (-n, -r). Torsk (-en, -e). Kafl‘ee {-n). ENGLISH. Broken (in two). Brook. Brother. Brush. But. Butter. Buy. By. Call, shout. Candle. Cap. Capercailzie. Care; take care. Careful. Carriage. Carriole. Carry. Cart; cart with seats. Certain, decided. Chair. Change, to. Change, small money. Charge. Cheap. Cheese; sweet goats’ milk cheese. Cherry. Chicken. Child. Cigar. SwEnIsrr . Isi'i'r. Bz'iclc Broder Borste Men. Smdr (n.). Kiipa (p. 12). Ved,nc'ira; fiirbi; hos. Ropa (p. 12). Ljus (n.; l. mute). Hufva Tjc'ider Akt (m.); taga sig i akt. Aktsam, sorgfiitlig. Vagn Karriot Biira (p. 12). Kiirra Bestc'imd. Stol Bysta, fiifd'ndra; vexla (p. 12). Smdpenningar. Pris Bittig. Ost Kersbc'ir (n.). Kyckting Barn Cigar-r Class; first, second Ktass (m.); en bitjett class ticket. Clean. Clear. Clothes. Cloudberry. Coat. Cod. Coffee. fiirsta, andra ktass. Ren. Klar. Kidder. Hjortron Rock - Kabiljo Kafi’e (n.). II 18 VOCABULARY. NORWEGIAN. Kold ; jeg fryrer. Komme (p. 7). Behagelig. Sazdvanlig, alminde- Zig. Selskab (-et, -er,). Tazlle (p. 7). Land (-et, -e). Koste (p. 7). K0 (-en, Kee'r). Flede (n). Spmzlcke (-n, -r). KOP (rpm, 1w)- Ribs (-et; pl. id.) (rude, svarte). Skjazre (p. 7). Daglig. Fare (-n, -er),~ farlig. Mark; Mm-khed. Datte'r (-en, Datre). Dag (-en, -e). Kjazr (beloved); dyr (dear iii price). Dyb. Forlange (p. 7). Stige ned (p. 7). Forskjellig. Vanskelig. -Middagsmad (-en, -e), Middag. Smudsig. Stige af (p. 7). Afstand (-en). Gja're (p. 7). Lcege (-n, .-r). Hand (-en, -e). Der (-en, -e). Dobbelt. Ned, nede; (Bakken). , Klwde (-t, a‘), Drikke (p. 7). . Kjare (p. *Kudsk (-m, -e). nedad ENGLISH. Cold; I am cold. Come. Comfortable. Common, usual. Company. Count, to. Country. Cost, to. Cow. Cream. Crevasse. Cup. Currant (red, black). Cut. Daily. Danger ; dangerous. Dark; darkness. Daughter. Day. Dear. Deep. Demand, ask (a price eto.). Desoend. Different. Difficult. Dinner. Dirty. Dismount. Distance. Do, to. Doctor. Dog. Door. Double. Down ; downhill. I)ress. Drink, to. Drive (a carriage). Driver. SWEDISH. Kali; jag fryser. Komma (p. 12). behaglig. Allmdn, vanlig. Sc'illskap Tc'ilja (p. 12). Land (n.). Kosta (p. 12). K0 Grddde Spricka Kop Korinter (pl.), Vin- bce'r (n.). Skc‘ira (p. 12). Daglig. Fara (f.); farlig. Moria, dunkel; miirker (n.). Dotte'r Dag Kc'i'r; dyr. Djup (d mute). Ford'ra (p. 12). Sotiga ned (p. 12). Atskillig. Svd'r. Midday, middags- mé’zltid Smutsig. Stiga ned (p. 12). Afstdnd. (n.). Gora (p. 12). Lc'ikare Hund (m.) Don‘ Dubbel. Ned. Kldde (11.). Dricka (p. 12). Kora (p. 12). Kusk VOCABULARY. 19 / Aeg (-get, Aeg); bladt- Egg; 5 "-. Nonwsaum. Euomsrr. Tar. Dry (adj.). Terre (p. Dry, to. Om, under. During. Stev (-e'n, or -et). Dust. Tidlz'g (adj.); tidligl, Early. betids (adv.). .Ostlig, estre. Eastern. Let. Easy. Spise, (ede (p. 7). Eat, to. soft, hard, kogte, haard kogte, poached eggs. Speilcegg. Enten — eller. Either —— or. Elsdyr (-et, Elsdyr). Elk. Engelsk ,- Engelsk- English; English- mand (-en, -mcend) . man. Nok. Enough. Convert (-en, -er). Envelope. Omegn (-en). Environs. Aften (—nen, -ne); Evening. Kvazld (-en, -e). Overall. Everywhere. »Langt,- bevars; langt Far; far from it; far hervra. from here. Betalz'ng {-en, -er), Fare (railway, etc.); Pris (-en,-er); Pris- reduction of fare. Moderation (-en). Kost (-en), Spise (—n, Fare (food). -r). Gaard (-en, -e). Farm-house. Hurtz'g. Fast. Fader, Far (-en, Father. Fazdre). Besvcer (-et). Fatigue. Trust. Fatigued'. Trygte (p. 7). Fear, to. Drikkepenge (-n, pl. Fee, gratuity. 1d.). Fazrge (-n, -r),- Sand Ferry. (-et, pl. id.). Faa. Few. Mark {-en, -er). Field. Finde (p. 7). Find, to. Ild (-en). Fire. Fast. Firm. Swsmsn. Torr. Torka (p. 12). Om, under. Stoft (n.). Tidig (adj.); tidigt, _. bittida (adv.). Ostlig, 6ster ut. Lt'itt. Spisa (p. 12); am .. (P- 12 - Agg (n.); liis-kokta, hdrd-kokta, stekta a'gg. Anti'ngen — eller. Elg Engelsk ; Engelsman m. . Nog. Kuvert Omliggande traltt(m Afton Ofverallt . Lc°mgt borta, fic'irran. Betalning (f .)‘, pris (n.). Spis Gdrd Hurtig. Fader M6da(f.), besvdr(n.). Triitt. Fmkta (p. 12). Drickspenningar(pl.). Fiirja Fa. Fa'lt Finna (p. 12). Eld Fast. 11* 20 VOCABULARY. NORWEGIAN. Fiske. ENGLISH. Fish, to. Swnmsrr. Fiska . Fisk {-en, -e),- Fiske- Fish; fishing-hook; Fisk krog (-en,-e);Fiske- fishing-line ; fishing- snare (-n, -r);Fiske- stange (-stanger). Flad. Ftynder {-ren, -re). Blomst (-en, —er). Flue (-n, -r). Taage (—n). Felge (p. 7). Fod (-en, Fedder); til Fods. The‘; (in front of) for. Glemme (p. 7). Gaf—fel {—ten, -ler). Fryse (p. Frisk, fersk. Ven (men, -ner). Frugt(-en, -er); Red- grad {—et). Fuld, fuldstwndig. Fm. Vildt; Leg (-en, -e). rod. Flat. Flounder. Flower. Fly. Fog. Follow, to. Foot; on foot. For. Forget. Fork. Freeze. Fresh. Friend. Fruit; fruit-jelly. Full, complete. From. Game; a game. Grind (—en, -ar), Port Gate. Herve (-n, -r). Gauze . Gentleman. Jc'imn. Flundm Blo'mma Fluga Dimma Fb'lja (p. 12). Fat (pl. fb'tte'r); till fots. Thi; f5'r. Glb'mma (p. 12). Gafl’el Frysa (p. 12). Pride, fe'irsk. Vii'n. Frukt Full. Frccin. Vildbriid (n.). Port (m.). Flor Herre Faa; stige ned; stige Get; get down; get Fii; stiga ned, in, ind; stige komme frem. Pige, Jente (-n, -r). Give (p. 7). 0P; in; get up; get on. Girl. Give. Bra: (-en, -er), Jekel Glacier. (-len, -ler). Glad; det glwde'r mig. Glas {-et, \Glas). .Handsker. Gaa (p. Hod. Grazs (-et). 82k {-en, -e). Smarelse (-'n). Grfln. Gevar {—et -er); Krudt (-et). Glad; I am glad. Glass. Gloves. Go, to. Good. Grass. Grayling. Grease. Green. Gun ; gunpowder. app; komma fm'm. Flicka (f.). Gifva (p. 12). Isbe'rg Glad, forniijd. Glas Handskar (pl.). Ge'z (p. 12). God. Gre'is (n.). Harr Smo'rja Gron. Geviir (11.); kmt VOCABULARY. 21 NORWEGIAN. Haar (—et, -e). Slainke (-n, -r). Haand (-en, Hamder). .Lommetarklaede (-t, -r). Hare {-n, -r). Seletei {-et). Hat {-ten, -te). He {-et). Hjerpe (-n, -r). Hoved {-et, -er). Tung. Hjwlpe (p. 7). Her. Sild (-en,- Sild). Hei. Bakke {-n, -r),- balcket. Hyre (p. 7). Holde (p. 7). .Hjem. Arlig. Krog (-en, -e). Haabe (p. 7). Hest (-en, -e). HEd, varm. Time (-n, -r). Hus (-et, Hus). Hvorledes. Sultan. Mand (-en, Mcend). Is (-en),- Isewe (-n, -r). Om, dersom, hvis. Ilde (adj. sjulc). _' ~Strax. I,- (adv.) ind, inde. For at. Ih; ja saa; virkelig. Blwk {-ket). Station {-en, -er), G j a’stgiveri ( -et, -er ) Hotel (-let, -ler). Vert (-en, -er). Istedenfor. Tolk {-en, -e}. ENGLrsH. Hair. Ham. Hand. Handkerchief. Hare. Harness. Hat. Hay. Hazel-hen. Head. Heavy (rough, steep, hilly). Help. IIere. Herring. High. Hill; hilly. Hire. Hold. Home. Honest. Hook. Hope, to. Horse. Hot. Hour. House. How. Hungry. Husband. Ice; ice-axe. If. Ill. Immediately. In. In order that. Indeed. Ink. Inn. Innkeeper. Instead of. Interpreter. Swnmsn. Hdr (n.). Skinka (f.). Hand (f. ; hi'inder). Ndsduk Hare Seldon Hatt Haj Hjerpe (111.). Hufvud Tung. Hjelpa (p. 12). Backe Hyra (p. 12). Hc'tlla (p. 13). Hem. Arlig. Krok Hoppas (p. 13). Heist Het, varm. Timma Hus Huru. Hungrig. Man (m.; mc'in). Is Om. Sjuk. Genast. I ,- in, inne (adv.). Fdr att. Ja sit,- verkligen. Bliick (n.). Gd'stgifvaregdrd, viirdshus Viird I stc'illet fiir. Tolk .22 VOCABULARY. NORWEGIAN. Jern. ENGLISH. Iron. SWEDISH. J ern. 9(-e'r),Holm (-en,-e),- Island; rocky island; 6 (f.); ska'r(n.); ska'r- Skjazr (-et, Skjwr); Skjazrgaard (aden- slcjazrs, indenskjcers). Reise (-n, 79‘). Krukke (-n, -r). Juli (-en). Springe (p. 7). Jam’ (-en). Beholde (p. 7). Kjed-el (-len, -ler). God, venlig. Konge (-n, -r). Kniv (-en, -e). Banke (p. 7). Vide (a fact); kjende (a person) (p. 7). Dame (-n, -r); F-reken (-en, -er). 80 (-en, -er),- (-et, -e). Land (-et, -e). Sprog (-et, Sprog). Stor. Sidst ,- ifjor. Sent. Lwgge (p. 7). Lane (p. 7). Mindst; idetmindste. Forlade; efterlade. Vand Igjen, tilovers. Venstre. Ben (-et, -e). Lade (p. 7); slippe . P. - Brev (-et, -e). Flat, jawn. Ligge (P- 7) Taende. Lys (-et, Lye). Let. K lar, lys. belt of islands (out— inside the side , belt). Journey. Jug. July. Jump. June. Keep, to. Kettle. Kind. King. Knife. Knock. Know. Lady; joung lady. Lake. Land. Language. Large. Last; last year. Late. Lay, put. Learn. Least; at least. Leave ; leave behind. Left(remaining over). Left (hand). Leg. Let; let go, let fall. Letter. Level. Lie. Light, kindle. Light (subst.). Light (in weight), easy. Light (in colour), clear, bright. gdrd (utomska'rs, inomskd'rs). Resa Krulca Juli Springa. Juni Behdlla (p. 13). Kittel God, 'va'nlig. Konung Knz'f Klappa (p. 13). Vela,- ka'nna (p. 13). Dama (f .); friilcen (f Sjii Land Sprdk Stor. Sista; ifjor. Sent. La'gga (p. 13). Ld'ra (p. 13). Minsta; i det minsta. Lemna; lemna goar (p. 13). Igen, gvar. Venstra. Ben n.). Ldta (p. 13); sla'ppa (p. 13). Bref Jdmn. Liggar Tdnda (p. 13). Ljus (n.). La'tt. K lar, ljus. VO'GABULA‘RY. NORWEGIAN. Lige. Synes, like (p. 7). Liden (pl. smaa : adv. lidt). Logi (-et;pron. lozhee), Kvarte'r (-et, -e). Lang. Les. Tabe (p. 7). av. Tei (-el). Mand (-en, Mcend). Kort,LandIcort(et,—e). Myr (-en). Fyrstikker. Mening {-en, -er), Be- tydning {-en, -er). Kjed. Istandsaztte, reparere, udbedre. Sendebud , Forbud (-et, pl. id.). Middag (—en). Midnat (-ten). Mil (-en, Mil or Mile). Melk' (-en). Tage feil (p. 7). Qieblik (-ket, Jae). Penge {-n, Penge). Maaned {-en, -er). Maane (-n, -r). MEr (pl. flered). Mést (pl. fleste). Moder, Mor (-en, Me- dre). ‘ Stige, sidde op (p. Fjeld (-et, -e). Meget. Senep (-en). Faarekjad (-et). Negl (-en, -e). Navn (-et, -e). Kalde; hedde (p. ENGLISH. Like (adj.). Like, to. Little. Lodging. Long. Loose, slack. Lose, to. Low. Luggage. Make, see do. Man. Map. Marsh. Matches. Meaning. Meat. Mend. Messenger. Midday. Midnight. Mile. Milk. Mistake , mistake. Moment. Money. Month. Moon. More. Most. Mother. make a Mount. Mountain. Much. Mustard. Mutton. Nail. Name. Name , named. Swnmsn. Lila. Tycka (om), likna. Liten(pl. 81nd); lidet. Boning (f Ldng. L63. Fo'rlora (p. 13). Ldg. Bagage (n.). Man (m. ; mc'in). Karta Sump (m.), tra'sk (n Tfindstickor. M ening (f .), betydning f ( . . Kott Sa'tta i sté'md; par-era. Bud re- M iddag M idnatt Mil (f.). Mjiilk (f.). M isstaga sig (p. 13). Ogonbliek (n.). Penningar. M dnad Mane Mer, mera (pl. flera). M est, mesta(pl. flesta). Moder (f. ; modre). Stiga, sitta upp (p.13). Fja'll Mycket. Senap Fdrkott (n.). Nagel (m.). Namn (n.). call; to be Kalla; beta (p. 13). 24 VOOABULARY. N onwnomn. Near, ved. Ncesten. Synaal (-en, -e). Nwrhed {—en). Garn (-et , Garn), Net (—et, Net). Aldrig. Avis (-en, -er). Naeste. Natt {-en, Naetter); om Natten. Nej. Stai (-en) , Bulder (-ret). Midday (-en). Nord (-en); nordlig, nordre. Norsk. Ilcke ; slet ilcke. Nu. Ingensteds. Aa're (-n, -r). Klokken; Klokken er fire, el Icvarter. til sex, halv syv, tre Icva'rte'r til otte. Af ; natwrlz'gvis. Konto'r (-et, Kontor). Embede (-t, -r). Ofte, tidt. Olie (-n.) Gammel. Paa. Engang. Kun. Aaben. Aabne (p. 7). Eller. Ligeover for. Bastille (p. 7). Over. Ud, ude. Pandekage {-n, -r). Papir (-et). ENGLISH. Near. Nearly. Needle Neighbourhood. Net. Never. Newspaper. Next. Night; at night. No. Noise . Noon. North; northern. Norwegian. Not; not at all. Now. Nowhere. _ Oar. O’olock; itis 4, 5. 15, 6. 30, 7. 45 o’olock. Of; of course. Offlce (counting- house). Offloe (appointment). Often. Oil. Old. On. Once. Only. Open (adj.) Open, to. Or. Opposite. Order, to. Over, upwards of. Out. Pancake. Papper. SWEDISH. Nc'ira, ved. Nc'istan. Synal Grannskap (n.). Na't, garn Aldrig. Tidingsblad Na'sta. Natl (f.; nc'itte'r); 0m natten. Nej. Buller Middag No'rd Norslc. Icke; slc'ilt iclce. Nu. Igzgensta'des. Ara Klockan; klockan c'ir fyra, en qvart 6fver fem, half sju, tre qvart pd. dtta. ' Af ,- naturlz'gtvis, ja visst, bevars. Konto'r (n.). Embete Ofta. Olja Gammal. Pa. En gang. lilott; endast. Qppen. Oppna (p. 13). Eller. M idtemot. Ifeste'illa (p. 13). Ofver. Ut, ute. Pan'nkaka Papper (n.). VOCABULARY. 25 NORWEGIAN. ENGLISH. Forladelse [-n), Til- Pardon. givelse (-n). Prcestegaard (en-, —e). Isazr. Déls. Agerhone (-n, -r). Forbi. Betale (p. 7). Betaling (-en, -er). Bonde {-n, Bender). Pind (-en, —e), Stift (-en, —er). Pen {—nen, -ne). Folk (-et, Folk). Peb-er {—ren). Kanske, maaske. Person (-en, -er). Fotografi (—en, -er). Stykke (-n, -r). Brygge, Landings- brsgge (-n, -r)- Lods (-en, -er; pron. Lds). 'Naal {-en, -e). Pibe (--n, -r). Parsonage . Particularly. Partly ., Partridge. Past. Pay, to. Payment. Peasant. Peg, pin. Pen. People. Pepper. Perhaps. Person. Photograph. Piece. Pier. Pilot. Pin. Pipe . Sled (-et, -er), Plads Place. (-en, -er). Tallerlcen {—en, -er). Behagelig. Plate. Pleasant. Veer saa god, 'vazr saa Please. artig. Forrwielse (-n, -r). Heflig. Fattig. Boerer (-en, -e). Mulig; mulig'vis. Porto (-en); Frimwrke Postage; (-t, -r). Skydsgut (-ten, -ter). Skydsskafl’er (-en, -e). Postkontor (-et). Pleasure. Polite. Poor. Porter. Possible ; possibly. postage- stamp. Post-boy. Post—master. Post-offlce. Skydsstation (-en, -er,- Posting-station . pron. hoon), Shifts. shess — stas- Potete {-n, -r), Kar— Potato. tof-fel (Jen , -ler). SWEDISH. Ursdkt (f Prestgdrd Synnerligen. Dels. Rappho'ns Fo'rbi. Betala (p. 13). Betalning Bonde Pinne Penna Folk (11.). Peppar Kanslce. Person Fotografi Stycke (n.). Bro Lots Nagel; spilt Tallrik (111.). Angendm. Var sd god. Fo'ro'ielse Hdflig. Fattig. Bdrare Mdjlig. Porto (n.); Frimdrke (n. . Skjutspojlce Postmdstare Postkontor (n.). Slcjutsstation Potates (pL). 26 VOCABULARY. NORWEGIAN. ENGLISH. SwEDIsH. Pen, smulo. Pretty. Ta'clc. -Pris {-en, -er). Price. Pris Rimelig; rimeligvis. Probable; probably. Sannolilc. Udtale (p. 7). Pronounce. Uttala (p. 13). Udtale {-n). Pronunciation. Uttal (n.). Proviant (en), Niste Provisions. Proviant (-n). Rype. Ptarmigan. Ripa Saztte (p. 7); spwnde Put; put to (horses). Sc'itta (p. 13); spa'nna p. . for (p. 13). Hurtig;hurtigt (fort). Quick; quickly. Hurtig; fort, hurtigt. Jernbane {-n, -r),- Railway; railway- Jernbana ; bangd-rd Banegaard(-en,-e). station. (m.). Regn (-en). Rain. Regn Regne (p. 8). Rain, to. Regna (p. 13). Hinbazr (-et, pl. id.). Raspberry. Hallon Lazse (p. 8). Read, to. Lc'isa (p. 13). Fardig. Ready. Fa'rdig. Regne (p. 8). Reckon, to. Ra'kna (p. 13). Red. Red. Rb'd. Rensdgr(-et, pl. id.). Reindeer. Ren Trailer, Temmer. Reins. _ Tygel Behave (p. 8). Require. Behiifva (p. 13). Hvile (p. 8). Rest, to. Hvila (p. 13). K omme or gaa tilbage. Return (v. Viinda;3 resa tilbaka p. 1 Len (-en, Len). Reward, wages. Lo'n Baand (-et). Ribbon. . Band (n.). Rig. Rich. Rik. Ride. Ride. Rida (p. 13). Rigtig; De har Rel. Right; you are right. Riktig; Ni or Herrn - har rc‘itt. Heiere. Right (hand). Hb'ger. Elv (-en, -e). River. Elf or a'lf Vei (-en, -e). Road. Va'g ' Siege. Roast, to. Steka (p. 13). Voerelse (-t, -r). Room. Rum Tang (-et). Rope. Rep (n.). Ujeevn, (of water) Rough. Oja'mn, (of water) urolig. orolig. - Rundt om. Round. Rundt om. Roe (p. 8). Row, to. R0 (p. 13). Roerslcarl (-en, -e). Rower. Roddare Lebe (p. 8). Run, to. Liipa (p. 13). Sad-el {-len, -ler)-. Saddle. Sadel Sikker. Safe. Sdker. VOCABULARY. 27 NORWEGIAN. Lax (-en, Lax). Salt (-et, -e). Sand {-en) ; sandig. Saus {-en). Sige (p. 8). Saw (-en, -e). Se (-en, -er). Sende (p. 8). See (p. 8). Sage (p. 8). Sjwlden. . Salge (p. 8). Tjener (-en, -e), Dreng (—en, —e),- Pige (-n, -r), Jente (-n, -r). Stange {-n, Stcenger). Grand. ENGLISH. Salmon. Salt. Sand; sandy. Sauce. Say, to. Scissors. Sea. Send, to. See, to. Seek, to. Seldom. Sell, to. Servant; servant girl. Shaft (of a carriage). Shallow. Lagen {-et, -er). Sheet. Slcjorte (-n, -r). Shirt. Slco (-en, -e). Shoe. Skyde. Shoot, to. Jagt {-en). Shooting (chase). Batik (-en, -er),- Shop; shop-keeper. Handler (-en, -e). Kort. Short. Hagel (-len). Shot. Lukke (p. 8). Shut, to. Luklcet. Shut. Sjulc. Sick. Side {-n, -r). Side. Siden (of time); fordi, Since. efterdi (causal). Nip (-pet). Sip. Enlcelt. Single. Seat-er (-ren, -re). Sister. Sidde. Sit, to. Sove. Sleep, to. Langsom. Slow. Ryge (intr.); rage Smoke, to. (trans.). Sneppe {-n, -r). Snipe. Sne (-en). Snow. Sne (p. 8). Snow, to. Saa (conj.); saaledes So. (thus). Swnmsn. Lax Salt Sand (m.),- sandig. Sds (m.). Sa'ga (p. 13). Sam Sjo Sa'nda (p. 13). Se (p. 13). Solca (p. 13). Sa'llan. Sfilja (p. Tja'nare (m.); flicka f. . Tistel Grand. Lakan Sltjorta Slco Skjuta (p. Jagt Butik (UL); lande Kort. Hagel, skrot Stc'inga (p. 13). Slutet. Sjuk. Sida (f.). Sedan ; emedan. Sup Enkel. Syster Sitta (p. 13). Sofva (p. 13). Ldngsam. Ryka; roka (p. 13). Hand - Sna'ppa (f.) Snb' Snoa (p. 13). S& ; .sdledes. 28 VOOABULARY. NORWEGIAN. Sabe (~n). Sagte. Undertz'den. Snart. Bed'ravet; det gjer 'mz'g ondt. Suppe {-en). Syd Pm); sandre. ~Tale. Skee {—n, -r). Vaa'r (-et). Stald (-en, -e). Skifte (4, -'r). sydlig, Staae (p. 8). Afgaa, gaa bort (p. 8 . - Dampslcib (-et, -e). Opvarter (-en, -e). Stole (-ken éke). Endnu. Stigbaile (-n, -r). Strempe (-n, -r). Sten (-en, -e); stenet. Standse (p. 8). Ligefrem. Rem (-men, -me'r). Jordbwr (-et; pl. id.). Slwm (-men, -me). Snor (-en, -e) Snare (-n, -r) , Hyssing (-en). Stark. Saadan. Suit-leer (-'re'n). Sam-mer (-ren, -re); om Somren. Sol (-en, -e). Aftensmad (-en). ENGLISH. Soap. Softly (gently, slowly). Sometimes. Soon. Sorry; I am sorry. Soup. South ; southern. Speak. to. Spoon. Spring. Stable. Stage. Stamp, stamp. Stand, to. Station, see posting- station, railway- station. Start, to. see postage Steamer. Steward. Stick. Still. Stirrup. Stocking. Stone; stony. Stop, to. Straight on. Strap. Strawberry. Stream. String. Strong (also rough, fatiguing). Such. Sugar. Summer; in sum- mer. Sun. Supper. Swnmsn. Sdpa Sakta. Stundom. Snart. Bedrofvad; det giir mtg ondt. Soppa Syd- Tala (p. 13). Sheet Vdr Stall Skifte Std (p. 13). Afga (p. 13). zingbdt (111.), dngslup (steam-launch). Uppassa're Staf Annu. Stegbdgel Strumpa (f., pl. -0'r). Sten Std stilla (p. 13). Raltt fram. Rem Smultron St'rdm ' Sndre Stark. Sddan. Socker (n.). Sommar (m.); cm sommaren. Sol Aptonmdltid VOCABULARY. 29 NORWEGIAN. Bord (-et, Bord). :Tage (p. 8); søfrge (p. 8). Taxt (-en, -er). Thee (-n). Kikkert (-en, -er). End. 'Tak ; mange Tak. At. Iooermorgen. Iforgaas. Da, paa den Tid. Der. Tyk. Tynd. Sag (-en, -er). Tænke (p. 8). Tørstz'g. Iaften; imorges. Did. Traad (-et, Traad). Tre Gange. Gjennem. Bíljet (-tet, -ter). Trætt. Fast. Indtil ; ikke før. Tid (-en, -er). Til Tobak (-ken). Idag ; imorgen. Tilsammen. For (meget etc.) Top (-pen, -pe). Mod. Haandklæde (-t, -r). By (-en, -er). Tog (-et, Tog). Oversættelse (-n, -r). Reise (p. 8). Besvær ( -et ) ; besvær- Trouble ; lig. ENGLISH. Table. Take; take care of. Tariff. Tea. Telescope. Than. Thanks; many thanks. That. The day after to-mor- row. The day before yes- terday. Then. There. Thick. Thin. Thing. Think. Thirsty. This evening; this morning. Thither. Thread. Three times. Through. Ticket. Tired. Tight. Till; not till. Time. To. Tobacco. To-day; to—morrow. Together. Too (much etc). Top. Towards. Towel. Town. Train. Translation. Travel, to. trouble- some. SWEDISH. Bord (n.). Taga ; hafva omsorg om (p. 13). Taxa Te (n.). Teleskop (n.). An Tackar; tackar ödmju- kast (mosthumbly). Att. I ö/'fvermorgom Förgår. Då, på den Tid. Der. Tjock. Tunn. Sak Tänka (p. 13). Törstig. I afton; i morse. Dit. Tråd Tre Gånger. Genom. Biljett Trött. Fest. Till, intill. Tid Till. Tobak I dag,- i morgon. Ihop, tillsammans. För mycket. Spets (111.). Emot. Handduk By Tåg (11-)- Ofversà'ttning Resa (p. 13). Besvär 30 VOOABULARY.‘ Nonwn GIAN. Benkloeder. Qrret {—en, -er). Sand; det er sandt. Ku/fert (-en, -er). Sandhed (-en, -er). Forsege. To Gange. Styg. Paraply (-en, -er). Unbestemt. Under. Forstaae (p. 8). Unbehagelig. Op, oppe; opad (Bak- ken). Paa. Brug {-en), Nytte(-n). Bruge (p. 8). Scedvanlig, alminde- lig. Dal (-en, —e). Vazrdi (-en).- Grensager. Sler (-et, Sler). Meget. Udsigt (-en , -er). Landsby (—en, -er); Landhandler (-en, -e). Eddike (-n). Beseg (-et, Beseg). Sereise (-n, -r). Vente (p. 8). Opvarter (-en, -e). Spadsergang (-en, -e). Var-m ; jeg har varm. Vadske (p. 8). Vadskelcone (-n, -r). Vand (et, -e). Lokum (-et), ‘det lille Hus’. Fos (-sen, -ser). Svag. Veir (-et). Uge (-n, -r). Frisk, sand. ENGLISH. Trousers. Trout. True; that is true. Trunk. Truth. Try. Twice. Ugly. Umbrella. Uncertain. Under. Understand. Unpleasant. Up ; uphill. Upon. Use. Use, to. Usual. Valley. Value. Vegetables. Veil. Very. View. Village ; village- shopkeeper. Vinegar. Visit. Voyage. Wait. Waiter. Walk. Warm; I am warm. Wash. Washerwoman. Water. Water-closet. Waterfall. Weak . Weather. Week. Well (in health). SWEDISH. Benkla'der. Forell Sann; det c'ir sannt. Ko/fert Sanning Forsiika (p. 13). Ted gdngar. SW99- Regnskdrm (m.). Obestiimmt. Under. Fiirstd (p. 13). Obehagelig. ' UP, “we; unfit, up— pdt backen. Pd. Bruit (n.). Bruka (p. 13). Vanlig. Dal Va'rde Gronsalcer. Sliija Myckel. Utsigt (f.). By Attika (f.). Besok (n.). Sjoresa Va'nta (p. 13). Uppassare (m.). Spatsergdng (m Varm. T'vc'illa (p. 13). Tviitterska Vatten Aftra'de (n.), or det lilla hu8. Fora S'vag. Va'der (n.). Vecka Frisk, sund. VOCABULARY. 31 ENGLISH. Brand (-en, -e-r),Kilde Well (subst.) NORWEGIAN. (-n, —r). Vel, godt. Vest {—en); vestlig, vestre. Fugtig, vaad. Hjul (-et, Hjul). Svebe (-n, -r). Naar, hvad Tid. Da (with past tense), naar (with present or future). Hvor. Medens. Hvorfor. Husfru (-en, -er). Vind (-en, -e). Vindue {-t, -r). Vin {—en, -e). Hnske (p. 8). Med. Inde. Kvinde (-n, -r). Skov (-en, —e) ,- Tiur (-en, -er). Ord (-et, 0rd). Arbeide (-t, -r). Veerd. Skrive (p. 8). Urigtig, gal, falslt ,- jeg har Urett. Aar {—et, Aar). Gill. Igaar. Ja, jo (the latter being used in answer to a question in the ne- gative or express- ing doubt). Ung. Well (adv.). West; western. Wet. Wheel. Whip. When (interrog. When (conj Where. While. Why. Wife. Wind. Window. Wine. Wish, to. With. Within. Woman. Wood; woodgrouse. Word . Work . Worth (adj Write . Wrong; I am wrong. Year. Yellow. Yesterday . Yes. Young. SWEDISH. Brunn (m.), kiilla (f Val, godt. Vest Fuktig, vdt. Hjul Piska Na'r. Dd,‘ ndr. Hvar. Medan. Hvarfor. Hus/‘m, fru Vind Fiinster Vin (n.). OnsIta (p. 13). Med. Inne. Gvinna Skog (m.); tja'der (m. . 0rd Arbete Va'rd. Sltrifva (p. 13). Falsk, origtig ; jag bar. 0 ore'itt. Ar Gut. Igdr. Ja; jO. Ung. a i' :åh-3:14 (hf-td... af (gg :få à :š' ' , i' I, . 2 i 3 ÖJ fi if}. ' Short and Useful Phrases. NORWEGIAN. ENGLISH. SWEDISH. Göd Morgen, Ãften, Good morning, even- God morgon (pron. gu Nät. ing, night. morron),afton,natt. Hvördan här DE det? How do you do? Hur mår Ni (herr-nj ? Hur står det till? Tak skal De have! Thankyou. Many Tack! Jag tackar så Mange Tak! thanks. mycket. Vår saa güd ! Be so good. Please. Var så god! Hvad ønsker De ? What do you want? Hvad önskar Ni ?Hvad vill Ni ha ? Hvad behager? (sounds What do you wish? Hvad behagas? almost like Va ba ?) Tater De Engelsk? Do you speak English? Talar Ni engellskàf Nei, men jeg taler lidt No, butI speakalittle Nej, men jag talar litet norsk, svensk. Norwegian, Swed- (final t silent) nor- ish. __ ska, svenska. Ønsker De et Værelse? Do you want a room? Onskar Ni ett rum? Hvad kan jeg faa at What can I have to Hvad kan jag få att spise? (æde is used eat? åta (or spisa)? of animals only). Givl- TägI-Stöpl Give. Take. Stop. Ge (gif)! -— Tag! — Håll (stopp)! Det behager mig alde- That (this) does not Det behagar mig alls les ikke. please me at all. icke. . Forstaar De det? Do- you understand Förstår Ni det? that? Er det ikke godt? Is that not good? Är det icke (more com- monly inte) bra? Jo, det er meget godt. Yes, it is very good. Jo, det är mycket bra. (Jo is used in reply to a negative in- terrogative.) Hvad hedder dette What is the name of Hvad heter detta stäl- StêdPDenneStatiön? this place, this sta- le ? den här statiö- Hvad hedder Du ? tion ? What is your nen? Hvad heter du? name? Hvad hedder- kaldes What is that in Nor- Hvad heter det på nor- -- det paa norsk, wegian, Swedish? ska, på svenska? paa svensk ? Hvörlëdes sgnes De How do you like that? Hvad tycker Ni öm 5m det ? det? Det behager mig meget I like it very well. I Det behagar mig godt. mycket m 4 j'. , Vent lidt! Bi lidt! Wait a little. Vänta men »a .KL Pas paa! Take care. Pass på! (se upp I) 0 - -f it} _ *gilt-fä: fi: -a I‘ a, Cris}. ‘- LIST OF PHRASES. ENGLISH. SWEDISH. That is superfluous. Det är öfverflödigt. Who is that knocking Hvem klappar på dör- NoRwE GIAN . Det er överflödigt. Hvem banker paa Døren? at the door? ren? Kom ind! Come in. Stig in! Vær saa god, luk Dø- Please shut the door. Var så god och stäng ren! dörren I Aabn et Vindue ! Open a Window. Öppna ett fönster! Jeg er trait, hulten og I am tired, hungry, Jag är trött, hungrig tørstig. and thirsty. och törstig. Hvad koster det? What does this cost? Hvad kostar det? Erl alle Pladse op- Are all the places ta- Aro alla platser upp- tägne ? ken ? tagna ? Det gjør mig meget I am very sorry for Det gör mig mycket ondt. that. ondt (ledsen). Kan De veæle en ti Can you change aten- Kan Ni vexla en tie- Kroner-Sedel? crown note for me? krone-sedel? Ja, men jeg har ikke Yes, but I have no Ja, men jag har inte Smaapenge, heller small change. småmynt. ikke Skillemynt. Hvad er Klokken? What olclock is it? Hvad är klockan? Klokken er to; halv It is two olclock; half Klockan är tu (två),- tolv; tre Kvarter til past eleven ; aquar- half tolf; tre qvart êt; et Kvarter over ter to one; a quar- på (or till) ett; en ti,- fem Minutter ter past ten; five qvart öfver tio ; fem over fire,- mangler minutes past four; minuter öfver fyra; tre Minutter i syv. three minutes to fattas tre minuter seven. i sju. Jeg vilde gjerne reise I wish to start early. Jag ville gerna resa tidligt. tidigt. Jeg vilde gjerne væk- I wish to be called Jag ville gerna bli kes. _ (wakened). väckt. Naar skal jeg vække When am I to waken När (hur dags) skall Dem? you? jag väcka Er? Klokken sex. At six o'clock. Klockan sex. Det er for sent. . That is too late. Det är för sänt. Saa maa De komme Come earlier then. Då får Ni komma ti- tidligere. ._ digare. Ønsker De -at spise Do you want break- Onskar (vill) Ni äta Frökost ? fast ? frukost ? Ja, Tak! Nei, Tak! Yes, thank you. No, Ja, jag tackar; nej, (Tak is not used thank you. jag tackar. alone.) Der er Drikkepenge. Here is the gratuity. Där är drickspengar. Om Forládelse! Jeg Excuse me. Ursäkta! Jag ber om beder om Undskyld- ursäkt. ning! In Am) macaw‘. 34 LIST OF PHRASES. NORWEGIAN. ENGLISH. SWEDISH. Tag det ikke ilde op! Dont take it ill. Tag inte illa upp! Det gjër intet. That does not matter. Det gör ingenting ( ska- dar inte). Veiret er idäg smukt, To-day the weather is Vädret är i dag vac- ß men igaar var det fine, but yesterday kert, men i går var meget stygt;det reg- it was very bad; it det mycket dåligt; nede den hele Dag. rained the Whole det regnade hela day. dagen. I morgen vil vi have To-morrow will be I morgon få vi blåst. Blåst. windy. Veiret er mørkt, lum- The Weather is dull, Vädret är mulet, gval- mert, varmt, koldt, sultry, warm, cold, migt, varmt, kallt, foranderligt, be- ehangeable,settled. ostadigt, stadigt. standigt. Søndenvinden har The south windbrings Sunnanvinden har Skyer og Regn til clouds and rain. med sig moln och Følge. regn. Det bliver kjëligt; det It is getting cooler; Det blir kyligt; det klarer op. it is clearing up. klarnar upp. Solen gaar tidligt op. The sun rises early. Solen går tidigt upp. Solen gaar sildigtnêd. The sun sets late. Solen går sent ned. Om Sommeren i de One can travel com- Om sommaren under lyse Nætter reiser fortably in thelight de ljusa nätterna man meget behage- nights of summer. reser man mycket ligt - hyggeligt. behagligt. Jeg glæder mig meget I am very glad to see Det gläder mig mycket overat seDemigjën. you again. att återse Er. Er De syg? Are you ill? Ar Ni sjuk? Jeg er ikke rask. I am not well. Jag mår inte bra. Skal jeg gaa efter en Shall I go for a doc- Skall jag gå efter en Læge ? tor? läkare ? Jeg har Tandepine. I have toothache. Jag har tandvärk. Jeg har ingen Feber, I have no fever, but Jag har inte någon men jeg trænger til I need rest. feber, men jag be- Hvile. höfver hvila. Lad mig være alene. Leave me alone. Låt mig vara ensam. Lev v`él! Fär v`ël! Farewell. Farväl! Adieu! Vær saa god, vis mig Please show me the Var så god och visa Vejen til N. way to N. mig vägen till N. Hvör kommer De frå ? Where are you coming Hvarifrån kommer ' from‘? Ni? Jeg kommer fra Slot- I come from the castle. Jag kommer från slot- tet. tet. LIST OF PHRASES. 35 NORWEGIAN. ENGLISH.. SWEDISH. Gaa ligefrem,- til Go straight on; to the Gå râkt frà'm; åt hö- højre; til venstre. right; to the left. ger,- åt venster. Hvörlängt er der How far is it from Hur långt är det häri- herfra til N? hero to N ? från till N. ? Hvörlàênge behøves, How much time do I Hur lång tid behöfs for at komme til N? need to reach N. ? det för att komma till N. ? Kan vi finde os tilrette Can We find our Way Kunna vi hitta efter med Kortet? With the p1an(map)`? kärtan? Ved Hjørnet maa De You must ask again Vid hörnet måste Ni spørge Dem videre at the corner. fråga (fråga Er för) frem. vidare. Gaa altid fremäd. Go straight forwards. Gå alltjämt framåt. Naar kommer Du til- When are you coming När kommer du till- båge ? back ‘P bäka ? Er Herr N. hjemme? Is M1'. N. at home? Är Herr N. hemma? Kan jeg faa Hr. N. Can I see Mr. N.? Kan jag få tala med i Tale ? Herr N. ? Giv ham mit Kort. Give him my card. Ge honom mitt kort (visitkort). Hvor er Po'rtneren? Where is the porter? Hvar är portvakta- ren ? Er De fremmed her ? Are you a stranger Ar Ni främling här? here ‘? ` Er De gift? Are you married? Är Ni gift? Har De Bern ? Have you any child- Har Ni barn? ren ? ` ' Jeg har Iväret gift og I was married and Jag har varit gift och har et Barn. have one child. har ett bärn. En Søn eller en Dat- A son or a daughter? En son eller en dotter? ter? ————— Opvärter, En Flaske Waiter, a bottle of Kypare, en bute'lj vin, Vin, Øl, 'en Kop wine, beer, a cup öl, en kopp kaffe! Kaffe! of coffee. __ Ønsker ÅDe Hvëdebrëd Do you want wheaten Onskar Ni hvetebröd dertil, eller Kager? bread With it, or eller kakor till? cake? Bring mig en Aqva- Bring me a glass of Ge mig en sup, ett vit! (en Cognac, en spirits (brandy, glas brännvin, kon- ,,Allum“, en ,,Lys- ‘Allum’, LLyshol- jak, etc. holmerç'). mer’). Bring mig Punsch og Bring me some punch Ge mig punsch och Sodavand. and soda-water. sodavatten'. Spirituoser faas ikke Spirits are not to be Spirituosa kan man _ m I. 36 LIST oFPHRAsEs. N oRwBGLm. ENGLISH. SWEDISH. om Lñrdægs Aften got Von Saturday icke få om lördags og hele Søndagen. evening and Sun- afton (or qväll) och day. hela söndagen (ge- nerally pron. sön- dan). Bring mig en halvPor- Bring me half a por- Ge mig en halfportion tion af denne Steg, tion of this roast (pron. pörtshön) af Potetes og en halv meat, some pota- den här steken, po- Flask Øl> (en halv toes, and half a tatis och en halfbu- Øl). bottle of beer. telj öl (en half öl). Hvör er Spiseseddeln? Where is the bill of Hvar är mätsëdeln? fare? Ønsker De Rügbräd Do you Want rye- Önskar Ni rågbröd el- eller Hvëdebrëd ? bread or wheaten- ler hvetebröd? bread? Jegønsker Brëdß'mër I Want some bread, Jag önskar bröd, smör *og Ost. butter, and cheese. och ost. Hvad sg'jnes De om How do you like the Hvad tycker Ni om Gammelost og Mys- old cheese and the gammal ost och ost? Myse cheese ? mësost ? Den første er for barsk The former is too Den förste är för skarp og den anden for strong and the lat- och den andre för säd. ter too sweet. söt. Bring mig en Kniv, en Bring me a knife, a Ge mig knif och gafiel, Gafiel, enTállerken, fork, a plate, a en tallrick, en sked en Skë og et Glas. spoon, and a glass. och ett glas. Nej, Nei, heller to Glas. No, better two glas- häldre två glas! ses. Der mangler Salt, Pë- There is no salt, pep- Det fattas salt, peppar, ber,Sennop,Eddike. per, mustard, vine- senap, ättika. gar. Har De kogende Have you boiling wa- Har Ni varmt vatten? Vand? ter? Bring mig en Pánde- Bring me a pancake Ge mig en pánnkäka krige og Sukker; en and sugar; a sau— och socker; en korf, Pelse, Suppe, Mæl- sage, soup , some soppa, välling; kevelling ,- Mælk og bread - and -mi1k; mjölk och grädda; Flíø'de; Grönt ( Ge- milk and cream; grönsaker, etc. myse) etc. some vegetables. __ Ønsker De varm Frö- Do you wish a hot Onskar Ni varm fru- kost, inden De reise? (meat) breakfast kost före resan? before you start? Nei, kun en Kop Kei/Te No, only a cup of cof- Nej, bara en kopp kaffe og to Æg; men fee and two eggs; och två ägg,- men haard-, -blødkogte but the- eggs must hård-kokta, lös- Æg. be hard, soft boiled. kokta ägg. LIST OF PHRASES. 37 NORWEGIAN. ENGLISH. SWEDISH. Kan jeg faa Rëræg Can I have beat-up Kan jag få ägg-röra eller Speilæg ? or poached eggs ? eller stekta ägg? Har De Fisk? Have you fish‘? Har Ni fisk ? Ja, der er Torsk, Lax, Yes, you can have Ja, det fins torsk, lax, Ørreter, Makrel, torsk (a kind of foreller, makrill, Hummer, Flyndre cod) , salmon, hummer, flundror og saa videre. mackerel, lobster, och så vidare. _ flounders, etc. Kan jeg faaø noget Can I have something Kanjagfå någon kall- Koldt, Skinke, Pelse cold; ham, sausage, mat, skinka, korf og andet saadant ? or something of that och annat sådant? sort ‘? . Vilbekomme I May it agree With you l Välbekomme .' (said on rising from table after dinner). Läd vaske mit Lin- Getmythingswashed. Låt tvätta mitt linne. ned. Naar kommer Våsker- When does the wash- När kommer tvätter- könen? ervvoman come? skan? I morgen, om to Däge Everything must be I morgon, om två dar maa alt være fær- ready to morrow, måste allt vara fär- dig. in two days. digt (vara i ord- ning). Kan jeg stöle derpaa? CanI depend upon it? Kan jag lita på det? Jeg har faaet et stort I have made a large Jag har fått ett stort Hul i Frakken, i hole in my coat, håt på rocken, på Kjolen, iBáæerne; dress-coat, trou- fracken, på byxor- lad det straæt sy sers; get it mend- na; låt genast laga samme, reparere. ed at once. det. U/ Hvormêget er jegDem How much do I owe Hur mycket är jag skyldig? you? - - skyldig Er? Det er for meget, for That is too much, too Det är för mycket, för dyrt. dear. dyrt. _ > Priserne er for høie. The charges are too Priserna äro för höga. high. Vil De snyde_mig ? Do you want to cheat Vill Ni preja mig? ' me ? Bring mit Tør' -- min IBring my luggage to Ska/fa mina 'saker Bagage -iHotellet. the hotel. ' (mitt bagage) till - hotellet. Hvad er Taxten? What is the regular Hvad är taazan? charge (tariif)? Hvad betales for Kjør- What is the charge Hvad-betalar? man för sel med Kjñretøi for the drive'for a. åkning med en en- 38 LIST or PHRASES. NORWEGIAN . ENGLISH. SWEDISH. forspændt med En oarriage with one spännare , en två- eller tö Heste ? horse, with two spännare (åkdon horses? med en, två hästar )? Hent mig en Droschke Fetch me a cab from Hemta mig en droska fra nærmeste Hol- the nearest stand. från närmaste håll- deplads. plats. Hvormeget betales hen What is the fare there Hvad betalar man ( för og tilbäge- for Tur and back? åkning) från och og Retur? tillbaka ? For længere Ture be- For longer drives the För längre turer beta- tales efter Overëns- fares are according lar man efter öfver- komst. to bargain. enskommelse. Med Vogne med En Only two grown-up Med en häst befordrar Hest befordres kan persons can be con- man blott tvåvuxna to voæne Personer. veyed in a one- personer. horse carriage. Jeg vil kjøre timevis. I wish to drive by Jag vill fara på tim- Hvormeget koster time; what is the me; hvad kostar det det per Time ? fare per hour ‘9 i timmen? Er der en Bgbüd, etter 1s there a porter here, Fins- här ett stadsb-ud en Færgemand ? or a boatlnan? (en bärare) eller en båtkarl (roddare) ? VilDe have Landskyds Do you wish to go by Vill Ni färdas .land- eller Baadskyds? land or water ? vägen eller sjövägen? Jeg vil reise med I wish to travel by Jag vill fara med äng-- Dampskibet. the steamboat. båten. Idäg gaar intet Damp- No steamboat starts 1 dag går ingen ång- skib. to-day. båt. Da besørg en Baad Then order a boat Beställ da en båt med med fire Mänd (not With four men. fyra karlar (man). Mænd). Har de Niste med? Have you provisions Har Ni matsäck med? With you? Der er Niste for D`ém Here are provisions Här är matsäck för og for Rörskarlene for you and the Er och roddarna. (pron. kárene). rowers. Den unge Rorskar(l)er The young oarsman is Den unge roddaren är meget flink og staut. very fast andstrong. mycket rask och stark. Vil vi faa Vind eller Shall we have Wind or Få vi blåst eller regn? Regn ? rain ? Fjörden er lidt ürölig; The fjord is rough; Fjärden år oroliggupp- der er Bølger. there are Waves. rörd); det går vågor (böljor). Da bliverjeg säsgjg. Then I shall be sea- Då blir jag sjösjuk. sick. LIST OF PHRASES. = 39 NORWEGIAN. ENGLISH. Swnmsn. Vær saa god, vis meg Please tell me which Var så god och visa Veien tílBänegaar- is the way to the mig vägen till bån- den. station ? gården. Naar gaar Töget til When does the train När går tåget till N.? N. ? for N. start? ReiserDe med Hurtig- Do you travel by the Reser Ni med snälltå- eller det blandede express train or by get eller med blan- Tög? the mixed train? dade tåget? Billetkontöret erändnü The ticket- office is Biljettkontöret är än- ikke aabent. not open yet. nu inte öppet. Naar aabnes det? When is it opened? När öppnas det? En Billet første-an- A ticket for N., first- En biljett första - den-trëdje Klasse class, second-class, andra _- tredje til N. third-class. klass till N. Har De Overväzgt ? Have you over- Har Ni öfvervigt ? Weight? Hvor er Røg-, Dåme- Where is the smoking Hvar är rök-, däm- kupëen ? carriage, the ladies’ kupe'n ? compartment ? Frä hvilken Kantkom- Which side does the Från hvilket håll kom- mer Vinden? wind come from? mer vinden? Vær saa god, luk Vin- Please shut the win- Var så god och stäng duet ! dow. fönstret .f Trækluft er meget A draught is very Drag är mycket far- färlig. dangerous. ligt. Hvad hedder dette What is the name of Hvad heter den här Vand,< hint Bjerg, this lake, moun- sjön, det der berget, denne Station? tain, station? __ den här statiönen? Er Bänen smälspöret ? Is this a narrow-gange Ar detta en smalspårig line ? bana ? Hvor mange Klasser How many classes are Hur många klasser gives her? there? fins det här ? Bäre to, tre, en. Only two, three, one. Blott (bara) två, tre. en. Er der et godt Hotel Is there a good hotel Fins det ett godt (bra) iN? Hvilket er det at N.? Which is Hotel i N.? Hvil- bedste ? the best? . ket är det bästa? De er alle gode; der They are all good; De äro alla bra; det er ingen Forskel. there is no diife- fins ingen skilnad. rence. Tak' for behageligt Thank you for your Tack för godt sällskap. Selskäb .' agreeable company. Behagelig —— lykkelig A pleasant, happy Angenäm-lycklig- - Reise! journey. resa! Jeg gaar tilfods. I go on foot. Jag går till föts. Hr. Konduktør, vilDe Guard, will you take'Herr konduktör, vill 40 LIST oF PHRASES. NORWEGIAN. ENGLISH. SWEDISH. opbevare 'mit Tat‘, care of my luggage Ni (vill Herr kon- til i Eftermiddag ? till the afternoon ? duktören) förvara - mina saker tills i eftermiddag ? Kan jeg faa et Værelse Can l have a room Kan jag få ett riím med en Seng-med With one bed, with med en säng-- med to Senge ? two beds‘? två sängar ? Bring mig et Läs og Bring me a candle and Skafia mig ett ljus och koldt Vand, for at some cold Water for kallt vatten titt att vaske mig. washing myself. tvätta mig i. Hvor er Lökumet, Where is the Water- Hvar är privêtet (af- Dås ? closet ‘?- trädet) ? Gaa opad, nêdäd Go upstairs, down- Gå uppför, ned/ör Trappen og derefter stairs , and then trappan och sedan til hairs, til venstre. turn to the right, till höger,tillvenster. left. Har De en vSti'vle— Have you aboot-jack? Har Ni en stöfvel- kniv-gt? knekt? Nei, men jeg skal gaa No, but I will call the Nej, men jag vill ropa efter Gaardskarlen, ‘boots’, to pull off på gårdsdrängen, som skæl trække af your boots. som skall dra af Er Dem Støvlerne. stöfiarna. Jeg forstaar Dem ikke, I do not understand Jag förstår Er inte, Ni De maa tale høiere you,you must speak måste tala högre och og lángso'mmere. Iouder and slower. långsammare: f Kan jeg faa en Fø- Canlprocureaguide, Kan jag få en förare rer, en Ledsager, en attendant (to show (m'igvisa're); en led-A Bärer? the way), porter? sagare, en bärare ? AJeg giver gjerne dob- I am ready to give a Jag ger gerna dubbla belte Drikkepenge. double gratuity. drickspengar. Jeg vil saa stramt som I wish as soon as pos- Jag ville så fort som müligt have en Kar- sible a oarriole with möjligt få en skjuts- iöl og en Hest ;_ tö one horse, two car- kärra (karriol) med ~ Karioler med tö rioles with two en häst, två karrio- Heste. horses. ler med två hästar. Hvad koster Skydsen What is the fare to Hvad kostar skjutsen til den næste Sta- ~ the next station? tills nästa Station? tion? - Hvor er Dagbogen? Where is the day- Hvar fins dagboken ? book? Hos Stationsholderen, At the station- Hos gästgifvaren (ge- -hos Skydsskafferen. _ master’s. nerally--pr0n._ yay- ' shivären). Jeg vilstraxt reise ví- I Wishto goon at once. Jag vill genast resa dere; . r - vidarei' LIST OF PHRASES. 41,. NORWEGIAN. ENGLISH. SWEDISH. Hvor er Skydslcarlen, Where is the driver? Hvarärkuskemskjuts- l‘ .G'utten? pojken) ? Det er en göd og flink That is a good and fast Det är en god och rask Hest. Hvor gammel horse ; how old is häst; hur gammal er den ? he ‘P är han ? Har Du en Tollekniv ? Have you a knife? Har du en knif? Hvor har Stationshol- Where did the sta- Hvar har gästgifvaren deren kjøbt Hesten ? tion - master buy köpt hästen ? Hur Hvor mange Heste this horse? How många hästar har har han P many horses has he ? han ? Hesten er doven, der The horse is lazy, he Hästen är lat, här be- behøves en Pidsk. needs awhip. Have höfs en piska. Har Har Du en? you got one? du någon ? De kjfø'rer for hurtigt, You are driving too Ni kör för fort, for or langsomt! fast, too. slow. långsamt. Jeg vil gjerne komme I want to get to N. in Jag vill gerna komma tidligt til N., for at time to catch the tidigt (i god tid) till naa Dampskibet. steamboat. N. för att hinna med ångbåten. Gode Ven! Kjære Får Good friend, dear Min kära vän, kära —— en Hest! father, a horse I far, en häst! De maa vente lidt. You must wait a little. Ni får vänta litet. Er her i Närhêden et Is there a post-offioe Fins här i närheten en Postaabneri ? near here ? postanstalt ? Har De et Brëv for Have you a letter for Har Ni (fins här) nå mig ? me ? got bref till mig ? Naar kommer Posten When does the dili- När kommer posten ' til N? genoe for N. arrive? till N. ? Faaes her godt Natte- Can i obtain good Kan man här få ett qvarter, godt Natte- night - quarters godt nattlogi? logis ? here ? Alle Værelser er op- All the rooms are oc- Alla rum äro upp- F'Tåtägne. ' oupied. tagna. Jeg har desværre glemt I have forgotten my Jag har dessvärre min Vadsæk; gaa travelling bag. Go glömt min resväska tilbäge for at hente back and fetch it. (nattsäck),- gå till- den. baka om hämta den. Jeg har tabt min Rei- I'åhave lost my guide- Jag har förlorat min f'isebög. Jeg har fun- book. I have found resehandbok. Jag det den igjen. it again. har funnit rätt på den igen. ' Stands lidt; vi vil Stop a little; we will Håll (stanna) litet,- vande Hestene. letthehorses drink. vi vilja vattna hä- starna. Hvad er det" der? What is that there ‘2 Hvad är det der? Der har gaaet enSlcrëd An avalanche has de- Der har ett raa ägt _ 42- -msroF' PÉRASES. NORWEGIAN. ENGLISH. g SwEDrsH. ned, en Snëslcred, scended there, an rum, ett snöras, ett en Jördskred. avalanche of snow, joe-dras. a, landslip. Der er en Säter, men That is a sæter; but Der är en sc'iterJ men - der bor ingen Folk. nobody lives in it. det bor ingen folk der. Denne Elv maa vi va- We must wade Den här elfven (ån) de over. through this river. måste vi vada öfver. Vi vil gaa over Snë- We will cross the Vi vilja gå öfver snö- bröen. snow-bridge. bron. Nei, gaa ikke, der er No, do not go, there Nej, gå inte, där är store Buller. are large holes in it. stora hål. Er der Sprækker paa Are there orevasses in Fins det remnor på Bräen? the glacier? glaciéren? Man maa sammenbin- We must tie ourselves Man måste binda sig des med et Toug. together With ro- tillsammans med ett pes. tåg. Jeg har et daarligt I have a. sore foot; I Jag har ondt i foten,- Ben,- jeg har en have a blister, a jag har en blåsa, en Blemme, en Büle. boil. svulst. Lipaic: Printed by Breitkopf a Härtel. Leipzig} Karl .Baevdekélfl 1882. I ‘ll : ‘*II 3i; i! / I10 NUT REMOVE UR MUTILATE BARB wiuvfizbzuznvmsaflfifi. , mroiwflmfiro , nocdmm>zumwmn_>r Z>vw ” 21 fig Edmoom. wnDHH H " #050968 .- _. .. v s : |ls “1&5 52, .3 §E- 5gb. figeawi g‘ ti. Nm .Qn 918% QQKNEEQE? 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