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O E L RICHS & CO., A GENTS, North German Lloyd Steamship Company, - NEW YORK. sº * */620. Zo ſee /ø//, ºr º "Know'st thou the land where the fair citron blows, “Where the bright orange midst the foliage glows, “Where soft winds greet us from the azure skies, "Where silent myrtles, stately laurels rise, * Know'st thou it well?” -Goethe, “Wilhelm Meister.” Italy, the land of history and romance, the home of art and song, has now become the central shrine of the American traveler in his European pilgrimage. | Of late years the path from the shores of this country to that classical | land has been made easy by the establishment of convenient and attractive | direct steamship services between New York and Italian ports, offering the traveler the same comforts and luxuries that he finds on the transatlantic lines to England, France, and Germany. The erroneous impression prevails that the summer in Italy is unpleasant, | unhealthy and oppressively hot. This may apply to railway journeys through - | Southern Italy, but, with the possible exception of August and September, the summer in Rome is perfectly enjoyable for the American, for whom, if he or she live sensibly and as the Romans do, the Roman fever of the past need have no terrors, as it does not exist. The early winter months are apt to be rainy | in Italy, and railway traveling in summer rather dusty and warm, as in many other countries; but, as a whole, the summer heat in Northern and Central Italy and around Naples is less intense than that of the average American summer. - I - º –2- - º * GA3, Žd; zza Zzz & * &/6a, 2.5 // tº º, “Z/620. Zó see /zz/y : or -º Z/9* see Zºzz/y : should be refused, as it is out of circulation, and great care should be taken not to accept worn coins. The centesimi consist of copper coins of one, two, five, and ten centesimi, and of nickel pieces of twenty and forty centisimi. A five centesimi piece is termed a “soldo.” Travelers will find the ordinary letters of credit, or travelers' checks, issued by well-known bankers or express com- panies, most convenient for their purpose. On entering Italy the usual custom house examination of baggage takes place either at the port of debarkation or at the frontier station, which exam. ination, however, applies chiefly to tobacco, cigars, playing cards and matches. It should be mentioned that nearly all Italian cities levy a tax (octroi) upon provisions, etc. On entering a city the baggage is not subjected to any examination for this municipal tax, but is passed on the traveler's assurance that his baggage does not contain articles subject to the octroi. - -- Ladies' room ox. A North cer MAN LLOYD STEAMSHIP OF THE MEDITERRANEAN SERVICE. The pleasure and profit derived from a trip through Italy will be vastly increased by a certain degree of familiarity with, or knowledge of, the Italian language; a few months' study before leaving for Italy will enable the traveler to understand and make himself understood. While in the large cities of Italy the English and French languages are generally spoken or understood in the hotels and shops, a knowledge of Italian is desirable in visiting the smaller | No RTH (, ERMAN LLOYD STEAMsHIP OF THE MEDITERRAN EAN SERVICE. Bicycles can be brought into Italy on depositing with the Italian custom house authorities a sum of about eight dollars, for which the bicyclist receives a receipt. On leaving Italian territory the amount of the deposit is returned to the depositor on production of this receipt. | “Travel in the younger sort is the part of education; in the older part of “experience.” –Lord Bacon. There is no allowance made for baggage on Italian railroads, and the amount of baggage carried by the traveler, therefore, should be limited to the most necessary articles only. Travelers should not send their baggage ahead of them, or leave it behind them to be forwarded, but should keep their eyes upon their baggage and take it with them on their train. Baggage pilfering is a very common complaint in Italy, and if the traveler is obliged to forward any trunks from Italy to another country, or vice versa, he should be careful to place the baggage in charge of a responsible forwarding agent at the frontier station, sending the agent the keys to the trunks. It is not necessary to carry a passport in Italy, but the possession of such an instrument is desirable in cases of emergency or to secure the delivery of regis- towns, and is also useful in preventing extortion and defeating attempts at tered letters. cheating. - Traveling is as safe in Italy as in any other country of Europe, and even The unit of value in use in Italy is the lira, containing one hundred centesimi, Sicily, in which, until comparatively recent times, the traveler was exposed to of the value of about twenty cents, which is coined in one, two, and five lire silver | some risk, is now entirely safe from any danger along the beaten routes. pieces. The bank notes of the Banca d'Italia, the Banco di Sicilia, the Banco The traveler will find the "Orario Ufficiale,” or railroad time table, to be di Napoli, and treasury notes, termed “Biglietti di Stato,” are in circulation in had in any book store and costing one lira, a most reliable adviser on the subject | denominations of five, ten, and twenty-five lire. The former one lira bank ". of railroad travel throughout the peninsula. When purchasing tickets in rail- - – } - || – 3– - 4 - * &/62, Ž& see: /*2/y ---> : - - road stations, the traveler should have as nearly as possible the exact amount to be paid for the tickets on hand, but for long distances the services of Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son, who have offices in prominent locations in all of the large cities of Italy, will be found convenient. - DIRECT ROUTE FROM NEW YORK TO ITALY. "Farewell, Monsieur traveler, look you lisp and wear strange suits; disable all the "benefits of your own country. Shak “As You Like It.” -Shakespeare, "As You Like It. In preparing for a trip to Italy, the traveler's first step should be to engage his berth or room upon an ocean steamship, especially during the traveling season, which on the Southern route to the Mediterranean extends from January 1st to about July 1st, during which period steamers are often fully engaged months before departure. The Mediterranean steamers of the North German Lloyd sail from New York on the Saturday throughout the year for Gibraltar, Napſes, and Genoa. The time from New York to Gibraltar is about nine days, to Napſes about DINING ROOM OF A NORTH GERMAN LLOYD stEAMSHIP. IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SERVICE. eleven days and a half, and to Genoa thirteen days. By taking these steamships } the traveler avoids the long and tedious railway journey from a northern port and passes through a part of the ocean on which pleasanter weather may be expected than in more northern latitudes. The traveler can thus enter Italy at Naples, and, after passing through the country, can leave its northern borders, and finally embark on one of the North German Lloyd steamships from Bremen, Germany; Southampton, Eng- ſand; or Cherbourg, France, for New York again, thus enjoying the advan- tage of a tour through Europe, laid out in such a way as to avoid the retracing of steps and a going over of the same ground. The course of travel may be reversed by leaving New York on one of the Northern Twin-Screw Express or Twin-Screw Passenger Steamships of the North German Lloyd directly for England, France or Germany, whence the traveler can descend to Italy, passing through that country, and finally returning to New York from Genoa or Naples by the Mediterranean steamships of the North German Lloyd. If it is the traveler's intention to return from Europe during the months of August, September or October, it is advisable to secure return accommodations either from Genoa, Naples, Bremen, Southampton or J. ON THE PROMENADE DECK OF A NORTH GERMAN LLOYD STEAMsili P 1 N THE MELITERRA NEAN SERVICE. Cherbourg by applying to the agents of the North German Lloyd when engaging outward passage. All of the Mediterranean Express Steamships, as well as the Twin-Screw Express and Passenger Steamships of the Northern Service of the North German Lloyd, are either entirely new or of recent construction and of large size. They embody the best improvements and safeguards that the modern science of ship-building has devised, such as a large number of watertight bulk- heads, forming many compartments in the steamers' hulls; a full comple- ment of lifeboats, collapsible boats and rafts, with the latest devices for lowering; bilge keels, ensuring a large degree of steadiness in a sea-way, and a balance system in the construction of the engines which greatly reduces the vibration and movement in the body of the vessel. Among the other general features of these modern steamships are extensive promenade decks, fine staterooms and excellent ventilation. DEPARTURE FROM NEW YORK. “A strong nor'wester's blowing, Bill! “Hark! don't ye hear it roar now? “Lord help 'em, how I pities them “Unhappy folks on shore now!” —Wm. Pitt, “The Sailor's Consolation.” On leaving New York the Medi- terranean Steamships of the North German Lloyd follow a route which is below the latitude of 40, and which passes directly through the islands of the Azores. These islands are passed on the fifth day out from New York, and they offer a most picturesque and welcome sight to the passing voyagers, their green slopes dotted with white houses, their precipitous sides marked with many waterfalls. Before entering the Straits of Gib- raltar the steamer passes Cape - Trafalgar, where Lord Nelson won PILOT or ºt. | T. 277781 * Gº/622, Żó see Wºz// * ---> * &/62, Ž3 see: 742// stopping over at Gibral- - tar and proceeding to | Italy on a later steamer of the North German Lloyd without addi- tional charge, but they should not fail to apply to Messrs. John Onett! ^: Sons, and to register their names with this firm, as applicants for room on followingsteam- ers to Italy are accom- modated, so far as they can be, on arrival of the following steamers in the order of their applica- tion. Spain will well repay the traveler who spends a few weeks in visiting | HORTA, ISLAND OF FAYAL, Azor Es. } { his famous victory over the Spanish and French fleets in the year 1805. On entering the Straits the passenger observes Tangier, the port of Morocco, on that interesting country, the right, and farther inland, in Africa, the Mountain of the Apes, while directly in which the vestiges of Lºſ ahead the rock of Gibraltar looms up in grand proportions. The steamer, a vanished Moorish civil- GRANADA AND THE ALHAM ET. A. on arrival at Gibraltar, anchors about half a mile from shore, and passengers are conveyed to the land by the special tender of the North German Lloyd, which is provided with a well-appointed cabin for the accommodation of pas- sengers in wet weather, and are landed at the waterport, whence small Maltese carriages convey them to their hotels. Spanish or English money is taken ization mingle with the ruins of the Roman period and the Spanish art of a more recent time. He will find the people courteous, kind and obliging; the large hotels in the principal cities well kept, clean, and provided with an excellent table, and the railroad service, though slow and infrequent, tolerably sure. The fall, everywhere in Gibraltar. The examination of baggage by the Customs winter and spring months are quite agreeable in Southern Spain, and the Officers is a formality in Gibraltar, as it is an English port. Messrs. John warm months in the more elevated portions. Onetti & Sons, the agents of the North German Lloyd in Gibraltar, will The traveler on his way to Italy will not regret a few weeks spent in Gran- give passengers any information or advice they may desire. ada, Seviſſa, Cordova, and Madrid. He can in two weeks easily cover these interesting cities and then return to Gib- raltar and continue his voyage to It a ſy. O'Shea's Guide to Spain, published by } Adam and Chas. Black, in London, can be ac- cepted as reliable, as it has been compiled with great care and intelli- gence, and is particularly well equipped with use- ful information concern- ing the art treasures of Spain. The stay of the steam- ship at Gibraltar gives passengers sufficient time to visit the interest- SPAIN. “How much of my young heart, O Spain, “Went out to thee in days of yore, “What dreams romantic filled my brain “And summoned back to life again "The Paladins of Charlemagne, “The Cid Campeador.” –Longfellow. Passengers who wish to visit Spain or Morocco have the privilege of ing points of that famous English stronghold. Upon leaving, the vessel G-1 ºr ALTA 1-. - court tº 1-10 NS, ALHAM ºr A. skirts the mountainous * – - - —ly £1– - - - —") – 7 - - S - ºr * &/62, Ž3 see Zzz/y : * &/6a Żó see /zz/y. º-º. * Spanish coast, and, passing the Island of Sardinia, the passenger, after a sail of about two days and a half from Gibraltar, enters the far-famed Guſf of Napſes, which is heralded from afar by its exquisite outlying “While on Vesuvius' misty brim "O'erlooking the volcanic lands. surrounding country. lutely sure. islands and the familiar cone of Mount Vesuvius. Weather and permitting, the North German Lloyd steamships run alongside the new pier at Napſes and there land their passengers. crowded condition of the pier, the North German Lloyd steamships are obliged to anchor in the harbor and to disembark their passengers by tender. Passengers landing at Napſes are disembarked at the Company's expense by the tender, if the steamship is not able to go alongside the quay. NAPLES. "My soul to-day "Is far away, "Sailing the Vesuvian Bay; “My winged boat, “A bird aſloat, "Far, vague, and dim, "The mountains swim; “Here Ischia smiles "O'er liquid miles; "And yonder, bluest of the isles, “Calm Capri waits, “Her sapphire gates “With outstretched hands --- - “Beguiling to her bright estates.” “The gray smoke stands NAPLEs. traffic In case of bad weather or of the “Swims round the purple peaks remote. —Thomas Buchanan Read. Except in the month of September, the weather in Naples cannot be termed oppressive; the heat is generally tempered by a pleasant sea-wind, which cools the atmosphere. During the winter rain is very frequent. The traveler will soon learn to regard Mount Vesuvius as the barometer for Naples and its If the wind is from the north, and the smoke of Mount Vesuvius, therefore, blows toward the island of Capri, good weather is abso- When the south wind, or “scirocco,” blows the smoke to the ISCHia. CASTELLO DI REWIGLIANO, NAPLES, VESUVIUS IN THE BACKGROUND. north, the traveler should prepare for rain; and the east wind, which blows the smoke toward the island of Ischia, is the precursor of cold weather. The sanitary improvements made in Naples of late years have greatly contributed toward rendering the city safe for travelers. Since the year 1884, a new water supply that is pure and wholesome has been introduced by aqueduct from the mountains; the water of Naples, in fact, is considered the finest in Europe. The streets, too, through whose narrow dusty tracks ...We ride in files, each on our donkey's back, ...When evening's shadows o'er the high gray walls, "Q'er topped with oranges and olives, falls, ...And at each corner, 'neath its roof of tiles, "Hung with poor offerings, the Madonna smiles ... In her rude shrine so picturesque with dirt. “Is this not Italy? Your nerves are hurt "By that expression—dirt—nay, then I see “You love not nature, art or Italy.” —W.W. Story, “Lines on Italy." Aside from the well-known natural beauty of Naples, with its surrounding heights and islands, its feet bathed in the blue Mediterranean, the visitor will find the Museo Nazionale of engrossing interest. In this museum are –9 — ºr-º- º: e/6a #3 see: 74.2/y. * || º - … a a ºn a ºn POSITANC). collected the multitude of objects of art and household use excavated in | Pompeii, Herculaneum, Stabłae and Cumae, which, together with the marble and bronze statues and busts from other cities, form probably the finest and most interesting collection of this character in the world. Another attractive feature of Naples is the Aquarium, situated in the Villa Nazionale, on the sea shore, which contains a large number of marine animals from the Mediterranean, of all the colors of the rainbow. The Aquarium is maintained as a zoological station by the contributions of a number of the principal governments of Europe, and the United States. Other interesting features are the Museo Filangieri, containing antique weapons and other articles of the Middle Ages and of the Renaissance; the Museum and Church Tower of San Martíno, from which latter there is a - - - º - tº: *º POMPH.II. | - 11 — * &/6a #3 see Wºzz/y. º beautiful view of the bay and surrounding country; the Catacombs of San Gennaro, dating from the first centuries of the Christian era; the Royal Palaces: the Palazzo Reaſe and the Palazzo di Capodimonte. The churches are of no particular interest. The finest views are to be had from the street leading to Posíſipo, the “Strada Nuova di Posilipo,” from the bell tower of San Martíno, which is above the city proper, and from Camaſcoſí, a monastery near Naples. "This region, surely, is not of the earth, “Was it not drop from heaven? Not a grove, “Citron, or pine, or cellar, not a grot, "Sea-worn and mantled with the gadding vine, “But breathes enchantment.” -Rogers. The environs of Naples are far-famed for their large number of beautiful and interesting points, all within easy reach of the traveler. “The silence there was what most haunted me. “Long, speechless streets, whose stepping-stones invite “Feet which shall never come; to left and right “Gay colonnades and courts, -beyond, the glee, “Heartless, of that forgetful Pagan sea; “On roofless homes and waiting streets the light “Lies with a pathos sorrowfuller than night.” -“Pompeii,” Thomas Gold Appleton. POMPEII. Of all these points the buried city of Pompeii, a large extent of which is now again opened to the gaze of the modern world, enlists the chief interest of the traveler. The railroad from Naples to Pompeii skirts the Bay of Naples, passing the base of Mount Vesuvius and reaching Pompeii in less than one hour. The carriage road can be taken by the traveler, and in fine, cool weather may be preferred. At Pompeii a lunch can be taken at one of the station hotels, and, for the exploration of the ruined city, guides and chairs, the latter for the use of those who wish to avoid fatigue, are in attendance. Herculaneum, the ancient Roman town covered by lava from Mount Vesuvius in the same eruption that overwhelmed Pompeii, and now buried beneath the modern town of Portici, and partly excavated by the Italian Government, can be visited on the way to Pompeii. – 12 – J) * &/620. Żó see: Wºzz/y. ---> * * Gº/622, Żó see Zºaſ, * º- VESUVIUS. “But here the mighty monarch underneath, “He in his palace of fire, diffuses round “A dazzling splendor. Here unseen, unheard, “Opening another Eden in the wild, “He works his wonders.” —Rogers. CRATER or MoUNT VESUVIUS. For the ascent of Mount Vesuvius, travelers will find it convenient to avail themselves of the services of Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son, who operate the wire rope railway from the foot of the cone, and whose conveyances carry the pas- sengers from Napſes to the cone, where Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son provide a good luncheon. “Not a cliff but flings “On the clear wave some image of delight “som.” cabin ºf glowing with crimson flowers, “Some ruined temple, or fallen monument, “To muse on as the bark is gliding by.” —Rogers. The country west of Napſes contains histori- cal remains of ancient Roman cities in Pozzu- oſí, Baiae, Misenum, and Cumae, which are all worth a visit, and where the traveler will find numerous extinct craters and evidences of great volcanic activity in the past. The well-known moun- tainous island of Capri, which forms one of the most picturesque features THE FARRALORIES, CAPRI. CAPRI. of the Bay of Napſes, famous for its equable climate and for its delightful excursions, can best be reached by the saloon steamers of the North German Lloyd, which maintain a regular daily service during the traveling season. “Many an arched roof is bent "Over the wave, "But none like thine, from the firmament “To the shells that at thy threshold lave. "What name shall shadow the rich-blue sheen, "Violet, sapphire, or ultramarine, “Beautiful cave? “World of wonders and strange delights, “Submontane sea, “Bowers of branching stalactites, “Islands of lapis lazuli, “And waves so clear and air so rich, “That, gazing, we know not which is which,- “Adieu to thee!" —William Gibson, “Capri, the Blue Grotto.” BLUE GROTTO AT CAPRI. - 13 - - 14- § * Gº/620. Żó; see Wºz/y. º The celebrated Blue Grotto, a cave of Capri, 175 feet in length and 100 feet in width, the greater part of which is under water, is entered by boat directly from the sea through a narrow and low aperture. The island contains two towns, Capri and Anacapri, the latter affording a beautiful view of the bays and many interesting remains of Roman villas. The North German Lloyd steamer, on her way from Naples to Capri, calls at Sorrento, situated among orange trees on precipitous cliffs rising from the sea. The islands of Procłda and Ischia are well worth a visit. They are reached by North German Lloyd steamer from Naples during the traveling season in about two hours. Both islands are of volcanic origin, Ischia contains warm springs that are used for their curative properties by those afflicted with rheumatism. AMALFI. “Sweet the memory is to me “Of a land beyond the sea, “Where the waves and mountains meet, “Where, amid her mulberry trees, "Sits Amalfi in the heat, “Bathing ever her white feet “In the tideless summer sea. “Round the headlands far away “Sweeps the blue Salernian bay “With its sickle of white sand; * On the clim discovered coast “Paestum with its ruins lies, “And its roses all in bloom “Seem to tinge the fatal skies “Of that lonely land of doom.” —Longfellow. “this is an enchanted land. AMALFI. The old historical city of Amalfi, dating back to the Sixth Century, and most picturesquely situated on the Gulf of Salerno, surrounded on one side by overhanging mountains and rocks, and on the other by the sea, is best visited by carriage from Sorrento, on the Gulf of Naples, which can be reached either by boat from Naples, or by carriage from Casteſſammare, a town a few miles distant from Pompeii. The fine carriage road winds up from Sor- rento across the mountain to the Gulf of Salerno, and skirts the coast of the Guſf of Saſerno in most attractive windings and with gorgeous views of moun- tain and water. “Sorrento, viewed from any of the hills that overlook it, seems one mass of “orange and lemon trees, with their golden fruit and snowy flowers glittering “beneath the sunbeam; while the lofty stone-pine, oak and ºyPress, | their “heads far above them, as if to guard the rich, and glowing fruit. —Countess of Blessington, “The Idler in Italy.” —dº - 15 — “Further still and furthermost } ---> * &/62, Ž3 see: /*2/y. * GULE OF SALERNO AT AMALFI. Passing the villages of Prajano and Positano, the carriage reaches Amalfi in about three hours and a half from Sorrento, and the traveler will find excellent fare in the old Cappucine convent on the side of the mountain above the town, now turned into a hotel. RAVELLO. "Where vines carve friezes 'neath the eaves, “And in dark firmaments of leaves “The orange lifts its golden moons.” —Lowell "An Invitation." PULPIT IN OLD NORMAN CATHEDRAL, RAVELLO. Ravello, founded by the Normans and situated above Amalfi, containing a Romanesque cathedral with interesting Byzantine mosaic work, should not -16 - |), * @%a £& see Wºz/y. º: --> º º or * * be omitted. On leaving Amalfi, the road continues along the Gulf of Saſerno past the towns of Atraní, Minori, and Małorf, winding along the precipitous sides of mountains near the sea until the town of Cava Def Tºrrent is reached. Here an interesting old Benedictine Monastery and the cathedral of Salerno, near Cava Def Tírrent, may be visited. The traveler can now either return to Naples or remain in Cava Dei Tirrent during the night, and can continue the journey thence to Paestum, where some noble remains of Greek temples may be seen. | | TEMPLE OF NEPTUNE AND BASILICA, PAESTUM. FROM NAPLES TO BRINDISI. The Southeastern part of Italy is seldom visited by the ordinary tourist, although well worthy of a visit. This section of Italy is generally only traversed by the traveler on his way to Brindisi, to embark there for Greece or other Eastern parts of the Mediterranean. The best route from Naples to Brindisi is via Foggia, in about ten hours by express train. The trains run through picturesque mountainous country, passing Benevento, rich with ancient Roman remains; Foggia, a railroad junction; Barletta, an important sea- port town; Traní and Barí, both containing interesting Byzantine and Roman- esque structures. Another route from Naples to Brindisi is via Potenza, Metaponto and Taranto, a picturesque ride through fine mountain scenery and remains of Greek and Roman architecture. The steamship connections at Brindisi are as follows: From Brindisi to Corfu and Patras every Sunday and Tuesday by the steamships of the Navigazione Generale Italiana; or every Wednesday by the steamships of the Austrian Lloyd. From Patras to Athens, trains twice a day. From Brindisi to Patras and Piraeus by the steamships of the Navigazione Generale Italiana, every Tuesday; or by the steamships of the Austrian Lloyd every Wednesday. From Piraeus to Athens, trains every hour. From Piraeus to Constantinople by the Gº/622, Żó see Zzz/y. SORRENTO. steamships of the Khediviè Company every Wednesday; by the steamships of the Navigazione Generale Italiana every Friday; by the steamships of the Austrian Lloyd and of the Compagnie Russe every Saturday. From Naples to Egypt by the new North German Lloyd twin-screw steamship Schleswig from Napſes to Alexandria, and by the Imperial Mail steamship of the North German Lloyd from Naples to Port Said. These steamships proceed from Port Said to Australia and to China and Japan, respectively. SICILY. “Italy without Sicily leaves no image in the soul.- “Sicily is the key to all.” -Goethe. No tour through Italy is complete without a visit to this beautiful island. There are three routes from Napſes to Sicily, one by steamships of the Navigazione Generale Italiana every evening from Naples to Palermo, arriving early the next morning. The steamships are provided with good accommoda- tions and are very comfortable. Another route is by weekly steamships of the same company between Naples and Messina, and the third route, by rail from Naples to Reggio, and thence across the Straits of Messina to Messina, is generally preferred by the traveler who fears the sea. A sleeping car is attached to the train leaving Naples in the evening and arriving at Reggio the following morning. The trip across the Straits by ferry-boat occupies an hour, and the traveler is landed alongside the train leaving the port of Mes- sína for Taormina. The City of Messina itself should be avoided. Its position is fine, but the town is not very inviting, and the hotels miserable. A ride of about an hour and half on the railroad skirting the blue sea, during which a dining car furnishes opportunity for breakfast, brings the traveler to Giardini Taormina. “There are no terrible lava streams in sight, with their painful reminiscences, !" but the gleaming ice-fields reach upwards to the highest peak, which throws a delicate whiff of smoke upon a turquoise sky, and melt gently below into satellite mountains, clothed with forest and vineyard, and glowing with every variety of " roseate hue, till they are lost in the hazy distance of the sea. On the nearer ... crags, the town with its towers and arches and over-hanging balconies, and here and there a cypress, palm or pine tree, clings to a rocky shelf, above gigantic “purple rifts, which extend, covered with cactus, to Giardini in the far depths.” -A. J. C. Hare's "Cities of Southern Italy and Sicily.” - IT - - 18 - * @zzº Żó see yeazy. - ALMOND TREES, SICILY. The town of Taormina is situated upon a precipitous hill immediately above the railroad station of Giardíní, which is on the sea-shore. A carriage road leads from the station in long windings up the steep hill to Taormina. The beautiful view, combining ocean, curving coast line and picturesque moun- tain scenery, with its majestic pyramid of Mount Etna in the background, for which Taormina is justly celebrated the world over, can best be enjoyed from the ancient Greek theatre east of the town. The vigorous pedestrian will appreciate a climb to Moſa, a mountain rising 2000 feet above the sea, crowned with a hoary but dirty village, and affording a gorgeous view over land and sea; or the ascent of Monte Venere, some 800 feet higher, offering an enlarged panorama, may be more tempting. “Snowy Etna, nurse of endless frost, - “The mighty prop of heaven '' –Pindar Pyth., Od. 1. * &/62, Ž3 see Zºzz/y. * TAORM INA. —19 — Q--> --- - LATOMIA DEI CAPPUCINI, SYRACUSE. Continuing the journey by rail from Taormina around the foot of mighty Etna and over the great lava beds that are now covered with vineyards and orange and almond groves along the sea shore, Catania is reached, the second city of Sicily in population, a great commercial town in an extremely fertile district, but not offering any special attractions to the traveler. Thence the route continues, along the sea, through country rendered famous when Rome was in its infancy, to the old City of Syracuse, or Italian Siracusa. “O thou who sitt'st in towered state, “Proud Siracusa, shrine “Of Mars, that loveth war's debate; “Of steel-clad chivalry thou nurse divine.” -Pindah Pyth. II, Cary's Translation. - - - - – 20 – * &/6ao Zöse e Zazz/y : * @%a Żóse e Zzz/y : Founded in prehistoric times by the Phoenicians, and known in 734 B. C. as a Greek colony, the modern town of Syracuse is situated upon the island of Ortygia, which was formerly a part of the ancient city. Old Siracusa occupied a great part of the country on the coast north of the island of Ortygia and was a mighty city in its day, with a circumference of twenty miles. Now there is nothing left of all this ancient city but a most interesting Greek theatre hewn out of the solid rock, a Roman ampitheatre, and huge remains of the city walls. All traces of houses have disappeared, but the most attractive feature of old Siracusa is the “latomie.” These are the original quarries situated within the city walls, from which the ancient Syracusans cut the huge blocks used in the construction of their city and its fortifications twenty-five hundred years ago. These quarries, a hundred feet in depth, are now filled with luxurious vegetation, orange and lemon trees, and flowering plants of all kinds. In these southern latitudes flowers bloom all the year round and turn the gloomy, old, gray quarries into gardens of delight. “Yet to the relics of thy splendor past “Shall pilgrims pensive, but unwearied, throng.” –Byron, “Childe Harold's Pilgrimage.” In one of the quarries, the “latomia del Paradiso,” is shown a grotto 75 feet in height and 200 feet in length, curved in the form of the letter S and possessing most remarkable acoustic properties. It is related by tradition that this grotto was hewn by order of the tyrant Dionysius out of the solid rock and formed a perfect “whispering gallery.” The grotto is known as the “Ear of Dionysius.” and is said to have been used by the tyrant to listen to the conversations carried on by his prisoners in the dungeons of the “latomia.” Maſta is within six hours' sail of Syracuse, and steamships leave Syracuse every Monday evening for the island. From Syracuse, the traveler should retrace his steps to the junction Bicocca, near Catania, where he can join the train from Catania for Girgenti via Santa Caterina-Xírbí. GIRGENTI (Acragas). “Theron, for his conquering car, “Shall spread a shout of triumph far and wide, “True to his friends, the people's pride; “Stay of Acragas and flower “Of many a noble ancestor; “They, long toils and perils past, “By i. river built at last “Their sacred bower; and were the eye “To light the land of Sicily.” —"Pindar Olymp. II,” Cary's Translation. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Gírgentſ was also originally a Greek settlement, dating back to about 600 B. C., and then known as Acragas. It is celebrated for its Greek temples, of which the Temple of Concord is probably one of the best preserved Greek temples now in existence. It was used as a church in the Middle Ages, hence its comparatively good state of preservation. The modern town itself con- tains nothing specially noteworthy. The traveler returns from Girgentſ to the junction at Santa Caterina- Xirbí, where the through express train from Catania to Paſermo is met, and reaches Palermo in about eight hours from Girgenti. PALERMO (“La Felice”). “Perhaps there are few spots upon the surface of the globe more beautiful "than Palermo, The hills on either hand descend upon the sea with long-drawn “delicately broken outlines, so exquisitely tinted with aerial hues that, at early “dawn or beneath the blue light of a full moon, the panorama seems to be some “fabric of the fancy, that must fade away, ‘like shapes of clouds we form,' to “nothing. Within the cradle of these hills, and close upon the tideless water, “lies the city. Behind and around on every side stretches the famous Conca “d'Oro, or Golden Shell, a plain of marvelous fertility, so called because of its “richness and also because of its shape, for it tapers to a fine point where the "mountains meet, and spreads abroad where they diverge like a cornucopia “toward the sea.” —J. A. Symonds. - - - - - | | PALERM. O. MonTE PELLEGRINo. Palermo is the Capital of Sicily, and its largest city. Its situation is unsurpassed and equalled only by Naples. It lies fronting a beautiful bay and encircled by imposing mountains extending to the capes which form the confines of the bay. Between the city and the mountains in its rear stretches a fertile plain, known as the ‘Conca d'Oro,” filled with magnificent groves of orange and lemon trees. The city is finely built, clean and attractive. The Cathedral, erected under the Normans, is worthy of inspection, as is also the church of San Giovanni Degli Eremiti, one of the earliest Norman churches, built in the remains of a Mohammedan mosque. The Capella Palatina, a gorgeous specimen of Arabic-Norman style, built in the beginning of the Twelfth Century, with beautiful mosaic decorations, should not be omitted. The pulpit affords the best point of view from which to observe the marvelous beauty of this chapel. “This is that Sicily . . . . . . I saw the most interesting (profane) !country, after Egypt, and its history—beginning with the highest antiquity- "united in one time both with the Greek history and the Roman. It was the theme of almost every poet and every historian, and the remains in it of the past "are of an earlier antiquity and more perfect than those of other countries.” -Cardinal Newman. ºr. CLOISTERS AT MONREALE. The Botanic Garden contains a very fine collection of rare tropical plants and trees. The traveler should also visit the Museo Nazionale, in which a large number of statues and other articles of sculpture, remains of Greek, Roman and Saracenic art excavated in Sicily, are exhibited. In the environs of Palermo are the Monte Pellegrino, 2065 feet in height, rising abruptly out of the sea, called by Goethe the most beautiful promontory in the world, affording a magnificent panoramic view of Paſermo and the surrounding country. The Royal Palace of La Favorita, in the Conca d'Oro, surrounded by extensive grounds. - - - - - - - MONREALE. * &/6%a £5 see Wºzz/y : The Norman Cathedral and Cloisters of Monreale, the walls of the former covered with rich mosaics, and the latter containing 216 richly ornamented columns, the capitals of which are all different. The Benedictine Monastery of San Martino, founded by Pope Gregory the Great, in the Sixth Century, and now occupied as a reformatory. "Thy fanes, thy temples, to thy surface bow, “Commingling slowly with heroic earth, "Broke by the share of every rustic plough, “So perish monuments of mortal birth, “So perish all in turn, save well-recorded worth.” —Byron, “Childe Harold's Pilgrimage.” Pefore leaving the island of Sicily, the Greek ruins of Segesta and of Seſſnas should be mentioned. The temples of Seſſnas are of special interest, and will repay the somewhat fatiguing journey from Paſermo by rail and carriage, or on horseback. The steamships of the Navigazione Generale Italiana, leaving Paſermo every evening, arrive in Napſes at seven o’clock the following morning. º - - . ºº . TEMPLE RUINS, SELINUS. The distance from Naples to Rome is 155 miles. The most convenient train is an early morning express arriving in Rome in time for luncheon, and making the run in four hours and a half. The other trains are slower and take more than five hours. The route from Naples is via Caserta; Capua, built on the site of ancient Capua, once the second city in Italy after Rome, and still “Beautiful valley ! through whose verdant meads “Unheard the Garigliano glides along;- "The Liris, nurse of rushes and of reeds, “The river taciturn of classic song. “The Land of Labor and the Land of Rest, “Where mediaeval towns are white on all “The hillsides, and where every mountain's crest “Is an Etrurian or a Roman wall.” - –Longfellow, “Monte Cassino.” containing ruins of the old city; Cassino, from which the celebrated Bene- dictine Monastery of Monte Cassino, now an ecclesiastical educational insti- tution and containing some splendid art treasures, can be visited. The country is picturesque, affording a succession of beautiful panoramas culminating in interest when the train emerges from the hills and descends into the Roman -23 - -24- * &/6a Żó see: ſzz/y. *6%a. Żó see Wºz/y: ---> * { { | - MONTE CASSINO. Campagna. The great dome of St. Peter's appears in the distance, with the Eternal Cityspread out beneath it. ROME. “'Tis the centre “To which all gravitates. One finds no rest “Elsewhere than here. There may be other cities “That please us for a while, but Rome alone “Completely satisfies. It becomes to all | “A second native land by predilection, - “And not by accident of birth alone.” -Longfellow. ToMB of CECILIA METELLA, CAMPAGNA, ROME. The traveler who is pressed for time should not allow less than two weeks for a visit to Rome, and even in that period of time he cannot expect to obtain more than a passing glimpse of the glories of the “Eternal City.” A study of the guide books before arrival in Rome will enable the hurried traveler *|| - lay out a program that will make it possible for him at least to see the most important sights in that short time, but he should remember that a lasting impression can only be received from repeated visits to each shrine of history or art; it is better therefore to restrict one's self to the most interesting and | not to endeavor to cover all the ground. PALATINE Ruins of Palace of septiMlus sever-us. In the large hotels there are placards exposed giving accurate information of the days and hours when places of interest and art collections can be visited. The traveler should consult these placards in making up his program for the day and week. It should be remembered that, with the exception of the churches of San Pietro in Vaticano, San Giovanni in Laterano, Santa Maria Maggiore, San Paolo Fuori le Mura (outside the walls), San Lorenzo Fuori le Mura, Santa Croco in Gerusalemme, and San Sebastiano, the churches in Rome are closed from noon until 3 p.m. view from The pincio. - 25 - -26 - * &/62, Žá; see zºo/, * "Oh, scene sublime! Yet stern and sad enough “To make us shudder with an icy breath “From times forever past. And Oh, what times “The glorious days of Rome's supremacy "From every ruin sounds a wondrous voice "Like the invisible rush of eagles' wings, “And Rome's great spirit ghost-like walks the earth "Which once . ruled in uncontested might,” -Lingg. The traveler will do well to vary his program somewhat by visiting the gardens and parks in the afternoon. The finest view of Rome can be had from San Pietro in Montorio, late in the afternoon. In returning from San Pietro in Montorio the Passegiata Margherita can be visited, offering a con- tinuation of the same beautiful view. On the other side of the city the gar- dens on the Pincian Hill, in which a military band plays four afternoons in the week, present another panorama of Rome. PORTA MAGGIORE, ROME. “How vast a portion of the history of the whole world seemed opened before “our eyes as we then looked down (from the Pincio) upon Rome, Pagan and “Papistical . . . Saint Peter's towering in the distance, so pre-eminently, - “so unmistakably, the lord of all . the castle of Saint Angelo with "its imperial tomb and Christian fortress over it . . . the roof of the "Pantheon here . . . that of the Propaganda there . . . rare morsels “of antique edifices caught here and there, if carefully sought for . . . “while unnumbered and almost innumerable Christian basilicas, and towers, "and domes, and pinnacles, showed like the crowded masts of an enormous fleet “ that had found safe anchorage among them.” —Mrs. Trollope, “A Visit to Italy.” The other parks open to visitors are that of the Villa Borghese outside the Porto del Popolo and the Porta Pinciana, the gardens of the Villa Pam- phili-Doria, on the right side of the Tiber, of the Villa Mattei near the Coli- seam, and of the Villa Wolkonsky or Campaneri near San Giovanni in Laterano. For these two latter parks cards of admission must be obtained, and the park of the Villa Pamphili-Doria can only be visited in carriages without numbers. The guard-mounting at the Royal Palace on the Quirinal in the evening is entertaining to travelers and is enlivened by a musical selection played by the military band. Information with regard to sights or objects of interest can be obtained by the traveler at Piale's, No. 1 Piazza di Spagna, or at Reynaud's Free Inquiry || ". Via Capo le Case 24. * Gº/622, Żó see Wºz// * ---> As many collections and places of interest are closed on feast days, national holidays, etc., and as galleries and museums are closed at different periods of the year for repairs, inquiry should be made before starting out on one's daily tour in order to avoid loss of time. The following is a suggestion for the most economical disposal of the traveler's time dur- ing a fortnight's stay in Rome. First day. Visit the Roman Forum, Peri- patetic lectures are now delivered in the Forum by competent scientific authorities on certain days of the week. Passing through the Arch of Titus, visit the Coliseum and Arch of Constantine. In the afternoon the Pincian Gardens. Second day. San Pietro in Vaticano, Vatican Museum. In the after- noon via the Passegiata Margherita to San Pietro in Montorio. Third day. The Palatine hill. In the afternoon the Villa Borghese and its park. Fourth day. Sistine Chapel, Raphael's Stanze and Logge. In the after- noon the park of the Villa Pamphili-Doria. Fifth day. San Clemente, San Giovanni in Laterano, Baptistery and Lateran Museum, Scala Sancta, San Paolo Fuori le Mura and the Tre Fontane in the afternoon. Sixth day. Santa Maria Maggiore, Santa Pudenziana, Baths of Caracalla, Catacombs of St. Calixtus in the afternoon. Seventh day. Capitaline Museum and Palace of the Conservatori, Mamer- tine Prison. In the afternoon San Lorenzo Fuori le Mura. Eight day. Baths of Diocletian, Santa María Degli Angeli and the National Museum. Ninth day. Pantheon, Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, Palazzo Barberini, In the afternoon the Via Apia. Tenth day, San Pietro in Vincoli, House of Nero, The Corso, Piazzo Navona. Eleventh day. Excursion to Tivoli and Hadrian's Villa. Should be made on the first fine day, as good weather is essential for this excursion, The other three days should be devoted to a repetition of whatever visits have most interested the traveler, in order that the impression conveyed by the first visit may be made as lasting as possible. "Did the º heap “Their spoils here? Yes; and in yon field below, “A thousand years of silenced factions sleep- "The Forum, where immortal accents glow, "And still the eloquent air breathes—burns with Cicero.” -Byron, “Childe Harold's Pilgrimage.” SCALA, SANCTA. The Forum Romanum with the adjoining Comitium, once the central point costly public buildings, temples and monuments of wonderful beauty, now | of the civic life of Rome, when she was the mistress of the world, and filled with H} -28 - * Gº/620. Żó see Vez// -º-º: * @%a £6 see Zºz/y : * - --- - - v1 EW of For UM ROMANUM. } represents a ruined waste covered with fragments of buildings with here and there a few columns. The systematic work of excavation and research carried on by the Italian Government has gradually unearthed many remains of by-gone splendor, and now enables the reverent tourist to conjure up in his mind's eye a picture of what the Forum and Comitium were in the days when these public places were gloriously adorned with bronze and marble sta- tues, triumphal arches, temples and halls of justice, the roofs glittering with gold, and when past these buildings marched the stately processions of Roman Gen- erals with their victorious cohorts leading captive the armies of the barbarians. The Forum suffered the same fate that overtook all of the ancient public buildings and temples of Pagan Rome. It became throughout the - Middle Ages, and even until the Renaissance, the great quarry from which their columns and blocks of marble were drawn for the construc- ! tion of palaces and churches. Marble sta- tues and objects of art went into the lime kiln, while articles of bronze were in great demand, owing to the scarcity of iron and copper. This wholesale destruction of all the beautiful monu- ments of antiquity re- sulted in a gradual accu- mulation of rubbish, with which the Forum was filled to such an extent as to raise the modern level some thirty | TEMPLE OF WESTA. or more feet above the —dº lºº. - º For-UM-House of VESTALs. PALATINE IN BACKGROUND. old pavement. Old prints of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries show the desolate character of the waste that was once the busy market-place of Imperial Rome, overgrown with grass and weeds and used for the pasturing of cattle, hence popularly known until recently as the “Campo Vaccino.” “Italia, too! Italial looking on thee “Full flashes on the soul the light of ages, “Since the fierce Carthagenian almost won thee, “To the last halo of the chiefs and sages “Who glorify thy consecrated pages; “Thou wert the throne and grave of empires; still, “The fount at which the panting mind assuages “Her thirst of knowledge, quaffing there her fill, “Flows from the eternal source of Rome's imperial hill.” —Byron, “Childe Harold's Pilgrimage.” It was not until the advent of the present government in 1870 that excavations in the Forum were conducted on an extensive scale. These systematic operations have resulted in uncovering a large expanse of ground and in discovering ancient remains and structures of the greatest interest and ARCH OF TITUS. - 30 — - º º **/6a, 7&see Zazzy: **/ów Łó see Zzz/y : - º º º ºº: º *Tº | º --- º: } FRONT WLEW OF COL.I.S.I.U.M. INTERIOR OF COLISEUM. The external circumference of the Coliseum is nearly a third of a mile, value. The latest discoveries in the Forum comprise an ancient Etruscan and its height and massive structure are still wonderfully impressive, although burying-ground that ante-dates the City of Rome herself and appears to be of two-thirds of the gigantic structure have disappeared, quarried by Michael the Ninth Century B. C. The ornaments and utensils found in the graves Angelo in the construction of Saint Peter's, and before him despoiled by of this pre-historic people show the state of civilization in that remote age many rulers, popes and cardinals for the material for their palaces. to have been comparatively high. Another discovery is that of the alleged The most comprehensive view of this enormous amphitheatre, which seated “Tomb of Romolus,” with a column bearing a Latin inscription ascribed to from forty to fifty thousand spectators, is from the upper galleries, reached the Sixth Century B. C. The period of the Republic is represented in the by stairs from below. Fountain and Shrine of Juturna, while on the side towards the Comitium the "But lo! the dome—the vast and wondrous dome, --- - --- - - 1. hi ----- - remains of the Basilica Emilia of the Imperial Era have been unearthed, and Tºy º Dinº s mºve * * cell - under the shadow of the Palatíne, a Christian Church of the Seventh Century, ! Enter: its grandeur overwhelms thee not; “And why? it is not lessened; but thy mind, originally undoubtedly a public building altered into a church, with rich “Expanded by the genius of the spot, - - “Has grown colossal, and can only find frescoes in Byzantine style, has been found. - "A fit abode wherein appear enshrined -- r; -- .. - - "Thy hopes of immortality; and thou The traveler will do well to survey the Forum either from the Paſatíne “Shalt one day, if found worthy, so defined, hill or from the steps leading down from the Capitol, before entering the en- ºšº by Gºſage to face, as thou dº nºw ... | liable official guide in the English - - “His Holy of Holies, nor be blasted by his brow.” closure. At the entrance to the Forum a reliable official guide in the Englis —Byron, “Childe Harold's Pilgrimage.” language can be purchased, and it is advisable to consult this official guide in order to arrive at a clear idea of the probable site of the various structures | that the Forum is known to have contained, unless the traveler should } prefer to join one of the parties conducted through the Forum by the peri- patetic lecturers mentioned on page 28. At the east end of the Forum the traveler passes under the Arch of Titus, which commemorates the victory of Titus over the Hebrews in 70 A. D., and leaves the Forum, “A ruin—yet what a ruin! from its mass -- - -: , . º endi ls th Walls, palaces, half-cities, have been rear'd, descending towards the “Yet oſt the ‘....". º | 88, - “And marvel where the spoil could have appear'd. Coſíseum. “Hath it indeed been plunder'd, or but clear'd? “Alas! developed, opens the decay, “When the colossal fabric's form is near'd: “It will not bear the brightness of the day, “Which streams too much on all years, man, have reft away. “But when the rising moon begins to climb “Its topmost arch, and gently pauses there; “When the stars twinkle through the loops of time, “And the low night-breeze waves along the air “The garland forest, which the gray walls wear, “Like laurels on the bald first Caesar's head: “When the light shines serene but doth not glare, “Then in this magic circle raise the dead: “Heroes have trod this spot-'tis on their dust ye tread. “While stands the Coliseum, Rome shall stand; “When falls the Coliseum, Rome shall fall; “And when Rome falls—the World.” ITALIAN BOY. —Byron, “Childe Harold's Pilgrimage." P1A22A IN FRONT OF ST. PETER's AND THE WATICAN. – 31 – - -32 - ºr * &/622, Żóse e Zazz// * * º &&.e. £3; see: 722/y : THE ARCH of ConstanT INE. The Arch of Constantine, near the Coſíseum, is the best-preserved triumphal arch in Rome, and is mainly composed of sculptures dating from the time of Trajan, with later productions of Constantine's period, easily distinguishable by their rudeness. The present Church of Saint Peter dates from the year 1452, when the work of construction was begun by Pope Nicholas V on the site of the original Church of Saint Peter, said to have been founded by the Emperor Constantine the Great. Owing to the death of the Pope, work was suspended in 1455, and was not resumed until Pope Julius II revived the undertaking by entrusting the architect Bramante with it. Bramante was followed by Michael Angelo, who designed the wonderful dome, and on the death of Michael Angelo his plans were altered and a façade was constructed that completely interior of st. Peter's. destroyed the effect of the dome, except from a distance. The consecration of the church took place in 1626. The effect of the interior, especially the part under the great dome, is very impressive, and the harmony and symmetry of the architecture while adding to the grandeur of the vastdome prevent its enormous dim en- sions from overpowering the observer. One of the chapelson the right side of the entrance c on ta in s Michael Angelo's Pieta, the Madonna holding the dead body of Christ on her lap, a figure of wonderful pathos. The Vatican Paſace, the residence of the Pope, immedia tely adjoins Saint Peter's, forming a little city of its own, with its vast array of buildings and gardens. Part of the Vatican Paſace is set aside for the collection of antiqui- ties, formed by a succession of munificent popes, and consisting mainly of masterpieces of Greek sculpture. This collection is without doubt the finest of its kind in the world. It includes the wonderful Apollo Belvedere, found in the fifteenth century in the ruins of a Roman villa. - PIAzzA DI MONTE CAVALLO. “The Lord of the unerring bow, “The God of life, and poesy, and light- “The Suninhuman limbs array'd, and brow “All radiant from his triumph in the fight; “The shaft has just been shot- the arrow bright “With an immortal's vengeance; in his eye “And nostril beautiful disdain, and might “And majesty, flash their full lightnings by. “Developing in that one glance the Deity.” –Byron, “Childe Harold's Pilgrimage.” And the well-known group of Laocoon and his two sons, strangled by serpents at the com- m and of the offended God Apollo, which was discovered in the be- ginning of the sixteenth century, and immedi- Y APOLLO BELVEDERE. -34- —dº -33 - * @%zz, Żó see Wºz/y. * or º ately won the homage of the civilized world as a marvel of art. On the way to and from Saint Peter’s and the Vatican the traveler passes the castle and bridge of Sant' Angelo, which leads across the Tiber The castle was originally built by the Emperor Hadrian as a Tomb for himself, in 136 A. D., but has since passed through many vicissi tudes and changes, serv- ing as a fortress or many wars. The bridge was also constructed by the same Emperor to connect his tomb with the city. The Paſatine Hiſſ was the original site of the Rome of Romulus, and to this very day may be seen the blocks of tufa forming frag- CASTLE AND BRIDGE OF ST. ANGELO. ments of the walls of Roma Quadrata, which then occupied only the Paſatine, but soon extended across the intervening valleys and took in the neighboring hills. The Paſatºne was chosen by the first em- perors as their residence. Augustus built his house here, which was enlarged by Domitian, and of which extensive ruins remain. Tiberius occu- pied the northern side of the Paſatºne with his palace, which was enlarged by Caligula. Nero laid out a vast series of buildings ex- tending from the Paſa- tine across the valley to the Esquiline, and called his palace the Golden House. Finally Septimius Severus LAOCOON AND HIS SONs, “Go see “Laocoon's torture dignifying pain- "A father's love and mortal's agony “With an immortal's patience blending:-Vain “The struggle; vain, against the coiling strain “And gripe, and deepening of the dragon's grasp, “The old man's clench; |. long, envenom'd chain “Rivets the living links,—the enormous asp “Enforces pang on pang, and stifles gasp on gasp.” —Byron, “Childe Harold's Pilgrimage.” erected a palace on the south side of the hill overlooking the great Circus Maximus, which —dº stronghold through * &/6a #3 see: 742/y : º-º- latter has now entirely disappeared and the site of which is occupied by gas houses. The excavations conducted by the Italian Government have brought to light most interesting remains, among others the House of Livia, the mother of Tiberius, and at the present moment the Government, having bought the Villa Mills, which occupies part of the Paſatine Hiſs, is about to extend the work of excavation into the library of Augustus, which will undoubtedly furnish rich returns. The Viſſa Borghese, outside the Porta del Popolo, and consisting of a fine art gallery preserved in the villa, surrounded by a fine park, has recently been acquired by the Italian Government from the Borghese family. The Sistine Chapeſ, in the Vatican Palace, is celebrated for its ceiling frescoes by Michael Angelo, considered by many to be the highest develop- ment of the pictorial art. The figures, although the colors have faded and become obscured by smoke and dust, are strikingly lifelike in drawing and perspective. The position of the frescoes on the ceiling renders it difficult to observe them carefully and for any length of time. Mirrors are therefore HALL OF SCULPTURE, VATICAN. provided by the use of which the inconvenience experienced in gazing upward may be avoided. Over the altar is the Last Judgment, one of Michael Angelo's last works. This picture, grand in conception and execution, has unfortunately lost a great deal, and in fact in places has become entirely blackened by the smoke of candles and incense burned in the chapel during the last three hundred and fifty years. Raphael's Stanze (rooms), which contain the frescoes executed by Raphael for Popes Julius II and Leo X, are also in the Vatican Palace. These wall paintings are considered to equal, if not to surpass, the creations of Michael Angelo in the Sistine Chapeſ. Raphael unfortunately died comparatively young and did not complete the paintings, which were finished by his pupils. Raphael's Logge contain other fresco paintings of this great master aided by his pupils. The traveler should not omit to visit the tapestry which was executed at Brussels from Raphael's cartoons and show designs taken from the New Testa- ment. The tapestry was intended for the walls of the Sistine Chapeſ. | § Gºzzº Żó see Vºz// ºr Q--> * BAPTISTERY OF SAN GIO WANNI IN LATERANO. The Borgia Apartments, also in the Vatican Palace, contain frescoes by Pinturicchio and his school, which are famous for their brilliancy of color. “Yet, Italy through every other land - “Thy wrongs should ring, and shall, from side to side; "Mother of Arts as once of arms; thy hand. “Was then our guardian, and is still our guide; “Parent of our Religionſ whom the wide “Nations have knelt to for the keys of heaven l'' –Byron, “Childe Harold's Pilgrimage. The Church of San Clemente is particularly interesting for the reason that the present church, built in 1108, is constructed upon an early Christian church, which is known to have been in existence in 417, and the walls of which, showing traces of frescoes under the upper church, can still be seen and examined. Below the old church, again, there are traces of two separate strata of Roman masonry. The Baptistery of San Giovanni in Laterano is regarded as one of the oldest Christian ecclesiastical buildings in Rome. In it Constantine the Great INTERIOR OF SAN GIO WANNI IN LATERANO. INTERIOR OF BASILICA OF SAN PAOLO. is said to have been baptized. The font is shown which was used for this purpose. San Giovanni in Laterano was for a long time the principal church of Rome before the erection of Saint Peter's, and was burnt and rebuilt and altered at various times. The Lateran Palace was used as a residence by the Popes from the time of Constantine the Great until the removal of the Pope to Avignon. It now contains a collection of ancient Pagan sculptures in the Museo Profano, and of Christian sculptures, mostly sarcophagi fragments, in the Museo Cristiano. º On the square opposite the Lateran is a building in which the Scala Sancta, or Holy Staircase, is installed, consisting of twenty-eight marble steps from the palace of Pilate at Jerusalem, which Christ is said to have ascended. These steps are now covered with wood for protection, and are ascended on the knees. The Church of San Paolo Fuori ſe Mura was originally constructed in º, º i. - SANTA MARIA MAGGIORE. – 37 – * &/6%a £5 see /*2/y : 388 on the site of an earlier church of Constantine, and has since been restored and again almost entirely destroyed by fire in 1823, when it was re-built. The interior is imposing by reason of its dimensions and the decorative effect of its architecture. From San Paolo the Abbey Deſſe Tre Fontane should be visited. This is the place where the Apostle Paul is said to have been executed, and where his head, when struck off, is said to have made three bounds, at each bound a fountain gushing forth from the earth. The three fountains are shown, together with the ancient column to which the Apostle was bound when executed. The Church of Santa María Maggiore is one of the five patriarchal churches of Rome and dates back to the year 431 A. D., when the present nave with its ancient marble columns and mosaics was erected. Unfortunately, the interior of this venerable church is generally so dark that the mosaics are not easily distinguishable. The church was altered in the Twelfth Century, and four hundred years later received its present general form. | - - THE BATHS OF CARACALLA. Before visiting Santa María Maggiore it is well to enter Santa Paden- } ziana, in a neighboring street. This church is reported by tradition to be the oldest church in Rome, and to have been erected on the spot where Saint Pudens and his daughters Praxedis and Pudentiana lived and where they entertained Saint Peter. The earliest records of the church are of the Fourth Century, since which time it has been frequently altered and restored. BATHS OF CARACALLA. “Nothing remaining in Rome, not even the majestic Coliseum itself, has given “me such an idea of the grandiose splendor of these marvelous ºple as have “these wide-spreading ruins. Of their entire extent and of the ... proportions of different chambers, within them, it is easy, to judge on the spot; but of the “costly magnificence of the finishing no just idea can be formed without taking “the trouble to remember how many noble works contained in the public "museums, as well as in private collections, have been discovered here.” —Mrs. Trollope, “A Visit to Italy.” The Baths of Caracaſſa, so-called from the fact that they were begun by the Emperor Caracalla in 212 A. D., although now a mass of ruins and naked walls, still bear evidence to the unparalleled grandeur and magnificence shown in their construction. They were filled with the most costly and beautiful º - *) - U. &/620. Żó see Wºz/y: statuary, and such treasures as the Farnese Bull, the Hercules and the Flora, now at Naples, were found here. The Catacombs of Saint Calixtus, the most interesting of all the catacombs of Rome, are reached by the Vía Appia. A monk leads visitors through the labyrinthian passages, and if with a large party the traveler should be careful not to become separated from his guide. Many of the early Christian martyrs and a number of the first popes or bishops of the church were interred here. The Capitoſine Museum, on the Capitol Hiſſ, founded by the Popes and now maintained by the Italian Government, contains an innumerable array of masterpieces of antique art. Chief among them is the celebrated Dying Gladiator, or Dying Gaul, of whom Byron's touching lines were written: THE DYING GAUL, “I see before me the Gladiator lie: “He leans upon his hand—his manly brow “Consents to death, but conquers agony, “And his droop'd head sinks gradually low- “And through his side the last drops, ebbing slow “From the red gash, fall heavy, one by one, “Like the first of a thunder shower; and now “The arena swims around him—he is gone, "Ere ceased the inhuman shout which hailed the wretch who won. “He heard it, but he heeded not—his eyes “Were with his heart, and that was far away: “He reck'd not of the life he lost nor prize, “But where his rude hut by the Danube lay: "There were his young barbarians all at play, “There was their - Dacian mother— he, their sire, “Butchered to make a Roman holiday.” –Byron “Childe Harold's Pilgrimage.” The Resting Faun of Praxiteles, which suggested to Nathaniel Haw- thorne his romance of “The Marble Faun,” is another well- known work: "Only a sculptor of the finest "imagination, most delicate tastes, "sweetest feelings, and the rarest “artistic skill – (in a word, a "sculptor and a poet, too)—could "have first dreamed of a Faun in “this guise and then have suc- “ ceeded in imprisoning the sportive “and frisky thing in marble. "Neither man nor animal, and yet "no monster, but a being in whom "both races meet on friendly “ground . . . . . trees, "grass, flowers, woodland stream- "lets, cattle, deer and unsophisti- "cated man—the essence of all "these was compressed long ago, "and still exists within that dis- "colored marble surface of the "Faun of Praxiteles.” —Nathaniel Hawthorne, “The Marble Faun.” and the following rooms contain many glorious examples of Hellenic art in sculpture. FAUN OF PRAxiTELEs. \ * &/6a, 7&see Vaz (, ; * Gº/622, Ž; “See: Vºz// º san Lor-Enzo Pruori LE MURA. The Paſace of the Conservatorſ, opposite the Capitoſíne Museum, con- tains bronzes and other antique objects, terra cottas and mosaics found in the reconstruction of the City. Adjacent to the Forum Romanum is the Mamertine Prison, one of the oldest structures of Rome. The original construction, it is believed by some, was that of a tomb, but it was used as a prison in Republican days, and in it were confined and perished miserably Jugurtha, Vercingetorix and other celebrated enemies of Rome. Catiline was imprisoned and executed here, and the Mamertine Prison, according to tradition, once held Saint Peter, who, while confined here, converted his jailers and caused a spring of water to gush from the floor of the prison, with which he baptized them. The Church of San Lorenzo Fuori ſe Mura was originally a church of Constantine the Great's creation, was re-built in 578, and was altered and added to in the Thirteenth Century. The later church is, as it were, built into the older church, the floor of which lies about ten feet below the later church, and shows some magnificent columns and restored mosaics of great interest. The tomb of Pope Pius IX, the predecessor of Leo XIII, is in the vestibule of the old church. “Italy *Time º hath wrong'd thee with ten thousand rents “Of thine imperial garment, shall deny, “And hath denied, to every other sky “Spirit, which ºr from ruin thº'decay “Is still impregnate with divinity, “Which gilds it with revivifying ray.” –Byron, “Childe Harold's Pilgrimage.” The Baths of Díocſetian once covered more ground than any other baths in Rome, and were completed by the Emperor Diocletian and his co-regent Maximian in 305 A. D. The circumference of this enormous structure in its original state was about 6000 feet, but only the remains of a small part of it can be seen to-day. Michael Angelo converted the central hall of the baths into a church, Santa María Degſ? Angelí, while other parts of the baths were altered into a convent. The National Museum has now been established in the old convent. This Museum contains all those articles of antiquity dis- covered in the City, among which are a great many interesting objects of art and of utility found in excavations for buildings and recovered from the bed of the Tiber. The famous collection of antique statues and busts formerly placed in the Museo Boncampagní, in the Viſſa Ludovísi, is now deposited here and should not be overlooked by the traveler. Among them is the head of Juno, known as the Juno Ludovisi, of which Goethe wrote: “No words can give any idea of it; it is like a poem by Homer.” THE PANTHE ON. THE PANTHEON. “Simple, erect, severe, austere, sublime— “Shrine of all saints and temple of all gods, ". . . . . -spared and blest by time; “Looking tranquillity, while falls or nods “Arch, empire, each thing round thee, and man plods “His way through thorns to ºnes glorious dome! “Shalt thou not last? Time's scythe and tyrant's rods “Shiver upon thee-sanctuary and home “Of art and piety—Pantheon-pride of Rome!” –Byron, “Childe Harold's Pilgrimage.” The Pantheon is believed to have originally been constructed by Agrippa, the son-in-law of Augustus, as a temple, at the north side of the Baths that bear his name, of which some ruins have been discovered. The Pantheon was probably restored by Hadrian, to whom is now ascribed the present circular PATH's or Diocle-TIAN. - 41 – Q--> * &/6, #3 see /zz/y : building with its beauti- ful dome, while the por- tico is believed to have belonged to the original edifice of Agrippa. In the Seventh Century the Pantheon was dedi- cated as a Christian church, and it is now the final resting-place of the Kings of Italy, and also shelters the remains of Raphael with the following epitaph in Latin: “Ille hic est Raphael, timuit quo sospite vinci “Rerum magna parens, et moriente mori,” Which has been trans- lated by Pope: “Living, great nature feared ...he might outvie . . "Her works; and, dying, fears -- herself may die. TOMB OF RAPHAEL, PANTHEON. The Pantheon has the distinction of being the only ancient building in Rome that is still perfectly preserved, in that its walls and roof are still intact. Near the Pantheon is the Church Santa María Sopra Minerva, built on the ruins of the Temple of Minerva, and the only mediaeval Gothic Church in Rome. It contains Michael Angelo's statue of Christ with the cross, which is disfigured by a later addition of bronze drapery, and the tomb of Fra Angelico, who died in the adjacent monastery in 1455 A. D. - - . - - - INTERIOR OF PANTH HON, | * GA/622, Żó see Zºz/y. º or-ny VIA APPIA. The Barberini Gallery contains a small number of fine paintings, among them Raphael's “Formarina," Guido Reni’s “Beatrice Cenci,” and Dürer's “Christ Among the Scribes.” “Where the gray stones and unmolested grass “Ages, but not oblivion, feebly brave, “While strangers only not regardless pass.” —Byron, “Childe Harold's Pilgrimage.” The celebrated Via Appia, which can be visited at the same time with the Catacombs of Saint Calixtus, if time permits, is the ancient military road constructed 312 B. C., and led to Capua, afterward extending to Brindisi. On return- ing from the excursion to the Via Appia, the traveler should take the Wła Latina, on which a number of interesting tombs are situated. The Church of San Pietro in Vincoli was founded as a receptacle for the chains of Saint Peter, which are still kept in a cabinet under the high altar. It is known as the home of Michael Angelo's great statue of Moses, one of the great master's most famous works. The figure was designed as part of a great monu- ment to Pope Julius II, who, however, is not - - - buried here, Michael ANGELo's STATUE OF Moses. – 44 - * - 47 – ---> º, &/620. Żó see Wºz// * THE WATERFALLS OF TERNI. "The roar of waters 1-from the headlong height “Velino cleaves the wave- worn precipice; “The fall of waters! rapid as the light "The flashing mass foams, shaking the abyss; "The hell of waters! where they howl and hiss "And boil in endless torture; while the sweat "Of their great agony, wrung out from this "Their Phlege thon, curls round the rocks of jet "That gird the gulf around, in pitiless horror set.” –Byron, “Childe Harold's Pilgrimage.” The celebrated falls known as the Cascate Deſſe Marmore, which are reached by electric trolley road from the railroad sta- tion of Terni, are 600 feet in height in all, divided into three terraces about 330 feet, 190 feet and 65 feet each in height. They are caused by the River Velino, a mountain stream of large volume which plunges down in one compact mass, forming a series of cascades probably the most beautiful in Europe. ORVIETO. "The Cathedral of Orvieto is the grand monumental record of dogmatic “teaching as to the Holy Sacrament of the Altar; and the sublime office for “Corpus Domini, composed by Saint Thomas Aquinas,'does not more impressively "convey its meaning in orison or hymn than does this splendid Cathedral, in "the various art works adorning it—in the very fact, indeed, of its existence.” -Heman's “History of Mediaeval Christianity.” WATER FALLS AT TERNI. Orvieto is picturesquely situated on an isolated rock, rising perpendicularly out of the plain, and derived its name from Urbs Vetus, the “Old City” of the Etruscans. A cable tramway conveys the traveler from the station below, up or VI E'lu, * &/6a, 7&see: 74.2%/. Q--> * Gº/620. Żó see Wºz/y. º § CATHEDRAL AND CAMPANILE AT WITER BO. through a tunnel under the fortifications into the town, terminating on the piazza opposite the celebrated Cathedral, a beautiful structure of the Italian Gothic-style, probably the finest example of that style in Italy. The façade is famed for its rich mosaics and sculptures. The interior has been well restored and contains many masterpieces of sculpture and painting, among the latter noteworthy frescoes begun by Fra Angelico and finished by Luca Signorelli. Near Orvieto is the small town of Boſsena, containing many remains of Roman art, and situ- ated on the banks of the Lake of Boſsena, the scene of Raphael's paint- ing, the “Miracle of Bol- sena,” in the Stanze, in the Vatican. Montef as cone, with its distinguished Cathedral and known for its excellent wine. Ví terbo still main- tains its original mediae- wal aspect with a fine Romanesque Cathedral (San Lorenzo), said to have been erected in the Twelfth Century, and with many old palaces, fortifical with thick walls and heavy portals, now occupied by the poor. "Where fair Clitumnus º bids his waters flow “Through arching POLETC). groves, and bathes his herds of snow.” SPOLETO. Spoſeto, celebrated for its cool climate, its fine situation, and also for its truffles, still boasts a Forum, Triumphal Arch and other remains of Roman construction. In its Cathedral, which dates from the Eleventh Century, Fra Filippo Lippi is buried. His frescoes decorate the choir of the cathedral. The Palazzo Municipale contains a beautiful fresco by Lo Spagna, the pupil of Perugino, and some fine Roman || mosaic pavements excel- || lently preserved. The Church of San Agos- tino deſ Crocłffsso was built in the Fifth Cen- tury upon the remains of a Roman temple, and in its interior shows the old temple columns themselves, forming part of the wall and upholding the dome of the choir. Spoſeto is noteworthy not only for its Roman remains, but also for its Etruscan walls, and shows some Pelasgic walls underlying and antedating even the Etruscan construction. ALTAR-PIECE, SAN NICCOLO CHURCH, FOLIGNO. Foligno, situated upon the old Flaminian Way of the Romans, lies at the edge of the Apen- nines, where they de- scend toward the valley of the Tiber. The Cathedral of San Feliz- fano contains a chapel by Antonio da Sangallo, and in the Church of San Niccoſo can be seen a large altar-piece by Niccolo da Foligno. “Fair Italy, "Thou art the garden of the world, the home “Of all Art yields, and Nature can decree; “Even in thy desert, what is like to thee? "Thy very weeds are beau- tiful, thy waste "More rich than other climes' fertility; "Thy wreck a glory, and thy ruin graced - “With an immaculate charm which cannot be defaced.” –Byron. “Chille ARCH OF TRAJAN, ANCONA. Harold's Pilgrimage." . … ". - - - - -º-º-º-º: - -* , - - - 49 - - 50 - * Gº/ö, #3; see /*2/y. º or. º Ancona, founded as a Greek colony 400 B. C., is a beautifully situated seaport city on the Adriatic. It is noted for its well-preserved Triumphal Arch, erected in the year 115 A. D. by the Romans in honor of Trajan. The Cathe- dral of San Ciriaco, situated on the site of a temple of Venus, was built in the Twelfth Century and contains some interesting ancient sculptures. | Assisi is the birthplace of Saint Francis of Assisi, who founded the religious order of Franciscans in 1208 and re-introduced true Christianity into Italy. The old monastery of San Francesco, conspicuously situated on the hill at one end of the town, is now used as an educational institution. The two churches, one above the other, in the monastery are most interesting. The lower church contains Giotto's famous frescoes illustrative of poverty, chastity and obedience, the vows assumed by the Franciscans, and of the apotheosis of Saint Francis, and paintings of Cimabue. The upper church contains frescoes of Cimabue and his pupils, most of them, unfortunately, partly obliterated. º -º-º-ºrº ASSISI. PERUGIA. “No Italian city illustrates more forcibly than Perugia the violent contrasts “of the earlier Renaissance . . . . To many travelers the name “Perugia suggests at once the painter who, more than any other, gave expression “to devout emotions in consummate works of pietistic art. . . . . . . But “the students of mediaeval history in detail know Perugia far better as the lion's “lair of one of the most ferocious broods of heroic ruffians which Italy can boast.” —J. A. Symonds, “Sketches in Italy and Greece.” Perugia, the home of the Umbrian School of Painting, was the scene of much of the activity of Pietro Vanucci, known universally as Perugino, the teacher of Raphael. The Coſſegio deſ Cambío, the old Chamber of Commerce of the town, contains frescoes by this master. These and the collection of paintings and frescoes of Fra Angelico, Pinturicchio and others in the Palazzo Pubb{{co will amply repay the traveler for a visit to this old town. The cathedral contains an altar-piece by Luca Signorelli, and in the chapel of a convent, now the College of San Severo, Raphael painted his first fresco in 1505 as an independent artist. The Churches of San Domenico and San Pietro de Cassinensi are distinguished by works of Fra Bartolomeo and Sassoferrato. The latter also contains choir stalls, the designs for which are attributed to Raphael. It is difficult for the traveler to realize, when contem- plating these works of art in Perugia, the turbulent history of the typical Italian town of the Middle Ages, which was a constant succession of bloody -" º: - - - - --- * * - — 51 - * &/6ao Zósee: Zzz/y: PALAZZO PUBBLICO, PERUGIA. brawls and fighting among the contending factions and with neighboring enemies. “Ah! servile Italy, grief's hostelry! “A ship without pilot in great tempest! “No Lady thou of Provinces, but brothel! “And now within thee are not without war “Thy living ones, and one doth gnaw the other “Of those whom one wall and one fosse enclose! “Search, wretched one, all round about the shores “Thy seaboard, and then look within thy bosom, “If any part of thee enjoyeth peace!” —Dante, “Divina Commedia, Purgatorio," Longfellow's translation. Before the Roman era Perugia, which was originally the site of a Pelasgic settlement, was one of the chief cities of the Etruscans and was taken by the Romans in 309 B. C., and was then known as Perusia. Through the early || PERUGIA. -52 — * @%a £3 see: ſzz/y : * &/622, Żó see Wºzzy * Middle Ages it passed from the hands of one master into those of another until the city finally asserted her independence, but only to remain in a constant state of war with her neighbors for centuries. Near Perugia, at the foot of the mountain, is the celebrated Etruscan tomb of the Volumnii, containing sarcophagi of terra cotta covered with portrait figures and reliefs, and lying where they were found. The railroad from Perugia to Florence passes Lake Thrasymene, where more than two thousand years ago Hannibal disastrously defeated the Romans, and continues to Cortona. Here the Cathedral boasts four paintings by Sig- norelli, which, however, are in a very poor light. The baptistery opposite the Cathedral contains three beautiful Fra Angelicos, and in the Churches of San Domenico and San Niccolo paintings of Signorelli can be seen that appear in a more favorable light than those in the Cathedral. A celebrated specimen MONTEPULCIANO. of Etruscan art in the shape of a fine Etruscan lamp twenty-three inches in diameter, decorated with reliefs of sirens, satyrs and animals, is preserved in the museum of the Paſazzo Pretorio. - Montepuſciano, another old Etruscan town in an impregnable position on an isolated mountain, contains some fine specimens of Renaissance archi- tecture by Sangallo and Michelozzo. SIENA. “A single glance from one of the slopes on the northern side will show how “truly mediaeval is its character. A city wall follows the outlines of the hill "from which the towers of the cathedral and the palace, with other cupolas an “red-brick campanili, spring; while cypresses and olive gardens stretch down- “ward to the plain.” —J. A. Symonds, “Sketches in Italy and Greece.” Tradition says that Siena was founded by Senius, the son of Remus, but the discoveries of the archaeologists have established the fact that it was originally an Etruscan settlement, although at the time of Augustus a Roman military colony. The city went through the Middle Ages with the same amount of --- - sil-NA. - | indiscriminate fighting and incessant warfare as the other Italian cities. It is noted as the Siennese School of the Renaissance, and the scene of the activities of the greatest of this school, Sodoma (Antonio Bazzi). The Piazza di Campo, on which the Palazzo Comunale stands, contains a modern copy of the famous Fonte Gaja, the original of which, by the sculptor Jacopo della Quercia, is in the museum of the Duomo. SIENA. “O gracious city, well-beloved "Italian, and a maiden crowned, “Siena, my feet are no more moved “Toward thy strange shapen mountain bound “But my heart in me turns and moves, "O lady loveliest of my loves, "Towards thee, to lie before thy feet "And gaze from thy fair fountain-seat "Up the sheer street.” —Swinburne. From a corner of the Palazzo Comunale the Torre di Mangia, a pictur- esque and slender tower, rises to a height of 335 feet. W. D. Howells says of | this beautiful shaft: “When once you have seen the Mangia, all other towers, obelisks and columns are tame and vulgar and earth-rooted; that seems to quit the ground, to be not a monument but a flight.” - - - - — ? 7-º º, &/620. Żó see ſeaſy * * &/620. Żósee: 742%, * PULPIT IN CATHEDRAL AT SIENA. THE CATHEDRAL OF SIENA. “The first view was so dazzling as to require a shutting of the eyes. . A “thousand beautiful white sculptures radiated back the bright sunlight, running “all over the vast façade in a perfect riot of grace and beauty. No church façade “is so genuinely stunning to the observer at first glance, unless we except that of “Orvieto.” - —Egerton R. Williams, Jr., “Hill Towns of Italy.” The Cathedral, it is stated, stands upon the site of a temple of Minerva. It was begun at the opening of the Thirteenth Century, and the façade was completed in 1380. The marble pavement of the - interior is covered with - scenes from the Old . . . . Testament, donesome in black stucco and others in mosaic. These works are generally covered for protection with a wooden flooring, which is only removed on special occa- sions. The art treasures of this Cathedral in painting and sculpture are unique. In the chapel of San Giovanni Saint by Donatello, while in the Cathedral itself the wonderful pulpit of Niccoſo Pisano imme- diately attracts the eyes of the visitor. On the walls of the library of the Cathedral are Pin- turicchio's great frescoes ENTRANCE, CATHEDRAL AT SIENA. perfectly preserved. cesco, and in the Chapel there is a statue of the - 55 - The Church of San Agostino contains a magnificent Crucifixion by Perugino, and a fine Adoration of the Magi by Sodoma, and in the Church of San Spírito are other paintings of Sodoma, and a Virgin by Lippo Memmi. More Sodomas are found in the Oratorio of San Ber- nardino of San Fran- of Saint Catherine, in San Domenico, is shown the “Swoon of Saint Catherine” by the same artist. Woſterra is situated on a lofty height domi- nated by an imposing fortress constructed in 1343, and is now used as a prison. The city dates from Etruscan times and preserves a remarkably fine collection of Etruscan and Greek antiquities in a fine museum. ETRUSCAN GATEWAY, VOLTERRA. Its town walls and ancient gateways are most interesting. SAN GIMIGNANO. “San Gimignano delle belle terri a delle belle campane “Gli Uomini brutti e le donne befane,” —Italian Proverb. The ancient town of San Gimignano has not changed its mediaeval aspect, and presents, as no other city in Italy, a faithful picture of the time of Dante, who came here as Ambassador from Florence in 1299. It is known for its many towers. The Saſa del Consiglio, or Council Hall, of the Palazzo - SAN GIMIGNANO), –56 - * &/6a £3 see: 7.zz/y. º * &&. #3 see: ſzz// * - AREZZO. Pubbſico, is still shown, into which Dante was ushered, the wall of which is | adorned by a large fresco by Lippo Memmi. In the same building is an Annun- ciation by Filippino Lippi, and a Madonna by Pinturicchio. The chapel of Santa Fína, in the Cathedral, contains frescoes of Ghirlandajo, and the Church of San Agostino the famous frescoes of Gozzoli. AREZZO. “Over the roofs o' the lighted church I looked "A bow-shot to the street's end, north, away “Out of the Roman gate to the Roman road, “By the river, till I felt the Apennine, “And there would lie Arezzo.” –Browning, “The Ring and the Book.” Arezzo has the honor of having been the birthplace of many celebrated men: Francesco Petrarca, the poet; Pietro Aretino, the satirist; Guido Aretino, the inventor of the modern system of musical notation, and last, but - - - - CATHEDRAL AT AREZZO. | not least, Caius Cilnius Maecenas, the friend of Augustus and patron of Virgil and Horace. The Church of Santa María deſſa Pieve, built in the beginning of the Eleventh Century, on a Roman temple with Romanesque columns, contains a Madonna by Lorenzetti, and in the Chapel of the Madonna, in the Cathedral, are five beautiful terra cotta reliefs by Andrea Della Robbia. Gubbio, another old Etruscan city, was and still is known for its Renaissance majolica-ware. It is also celebrated for its Madonna del Belvedere of Ottaviano Nelli, a work of wonderful charm, preserved in the Church of Santa María Nuova; a Madonna by Gentile da Fabiano, in the Church of Santa María Deſía Piaggioſa, and the so-called Eugubian Tablets, containing liturgical regulations and prayers in the Umbrian language, discovered here and now preserved in the Paſazzo Pretorio. FLORENCE. “Florence is rich in associations. Poets, statesmen, historians, sculptors "and painters, whose works still charm us, have bequeathed names to her that “recall great, and delightful images to our minds: and we forget the actual “present in dreamy reveries of the past. The old structures, too, that seem “built to bid defiance to the ruthless destroyer, Time, take us back to their foundºrs, and we people them anew, in imagination, with a race long passed a Way. -Countess of Blessington, “The Idler in Italy.” - -- º ºn - -- º - - ºº:: FLORENCE. Florence, Italian Firenze, “la bella,” retains more nearly her mediaeval character as a city than any other large city in Italy. Every street bears refer- ence to some name known in the arts, in science, poetry or statesmanship, and the names of Fra Angelico, Giotto, Leonardo da Vinci, Michael Angelo, Raphael, Galileo, Dante Alighieri, Giovanni Boccaccio, Girolamo Savonarola, Lorenzo de' Medici, and Machiavelli are indissolubly connected with the proud history of this great city. Florence is charmingly situated in the valley of the Arno, which bisects the city, running approximately from east to west. The most satisfactory view of the city as a whole is had from the heights of San Miniato, and the traveler should not omit a visit to this terrace. The centre of interest in Florence lies in the Piazza deſſa Signoria, the forum of the republic and the scene of many startling events in the city's varied history. Upon the Piazza fronts the Palazzo Vecchio, finished in 1314, the | “. unchanged as it stands to-day, but the interior since reconstructed, –58 – ---> * Gº/622, Żó see: 742/y. * PIAZZA DELLA. 54 C. NORIA AND THE PALAZZO. W. H.C.C.H.I.O. the seat of the Signoria, or governing body of the republic, afterward the resi- dence of Cosimo I, and now the City Hall. In the interior are shown the council chambers of the republic, and the room in which Fra Girolamo Savonarola, the Florentine reformer, passed his last days before his execution on the Piazza deſſa Sígnoría. In the south corner of the Piazza, the Loggia dei Lanzí, an open-vaulted hall of magnificent proportions, was erected in 1376. It contains a number of statues, among them Perseus with the head of the Medusa in bronze, by Benvenuto Cellini, and Judith and Holofernes in bronze, by Donatello. “Search within, “Without, all is enchantment. 'Tis the past “Contending with the present; and, in turn, “Each has the mastery.” —Rogers. - - - - - Locola DEI LANZI. - 59 - { ºr - - --~~~~--- E. º CHURCH OF SAN Giovanni BATT is T.A. Near the Piazza deſſa Sígnoria the attention of the traveler is claimed by the Church of Or San Mícheſe. The lower story of the building only is used as a church, whereas the upper floor, formerly a grain warehouse, is now used for lectures on Dante. The exterior contains in niches interesting statues by Donatello, Ghiberti and Michelozzo, and the interior a fine canopy by Andrea Orcagna, with scenes in relief from sacred history. The Bigaſſo, a charming little Gothic Loggia at the corner of the Piazza del Duomo, was built in 1352 as an institution for the exhibition of foundlings. In front of the Cathedral, or Duomo, is the Battistero, or Church of San Giovanni Battista, which until 1128 was the Cathedral of Florence, an octagonal building with cupola, apostrophized by Dante in the Divina Com- media as “My beautiful San Giovanni.” It was probably founded in the Eighth Century, and was re-modeled in 1200. It is celebrated by reason of its three bronze doors, the first completed by Andrea Pisano in 1336, with scenes in relief from the life of Saint John the Baptist; the second the work of L or enz o Ghiberti, 1403–24, and representing scenes from the life of Christ; the third also by Ghiberti, 1425–52, with scenes from Biblical history. "Of all the fairest cities of the earth, “None is so fair as Flor- ence. 'Tis a gem “Of purest ray; what a light broke forth “When it emerged from darkness!” -Rogers. CATHEDRAL AND CAMPANILE. * @%a £6 see /*2/y : º -60 - * &/6a, 7&see: Wºz/y: * @A/6, #3 see /zz/y : º or The Duomo (Santa María del Fuore) was begun in 1296 by the architect Arnolfo di Cambio, who was succeeded by Giotto and Andrea Pisano. The dome was planned and executed by Filippe Brunelleschi, and the church was consecrated 1436. The present façade is modern, and was erected in 1875 | and finished in 1887. The interior, which is rather bare and dark, contains bronze and terra cotta work by Luca della Robbia, and stained glass windows attributed to Ghiberti. THE CAMPANILE. “The characteristics of Power and Beauty occur more or less in different “buildings, some in one and some in another. But all together, and all in their “highest possible relative degrees they exist, so far as I know, only in one build- “ing in the world, the Campanile of Giotto.” —Ruskin, “Seven Lamps of Architecture." º º } INTERIOR, CHURCH OF SANTA CROCE. The wonderful Campaniſe, in the Italian Gothic style, begun by Giotto and continued by Andrea Pisano and Franc. Talenti, is richly decorated with } colored marbles. The statues on the exterior of the tower are by Donatello and his pupil Rosso, the reliefs by Andrea Pisano and by Luca della Robbia. The Cathedraſ Museum, near the Cathedral, containing Luca della Robbia's and Donatello's celebrated reliefs of singing children, should not be omitted by the traveler. The Palazzo degli Uffizi contains the celebrated picture gallery the basis of which was the collections of paintings made by the Medicis. It is now one of the most valuable and largest in the world. The central point of interest in the gallery is the Tribuna, where the great masterpieces of painting by Raphael, Titian, del Piombo, Perugino, Michael Angelo, Durer, Correggio, are placed, but all the rooms contain treasures that claim the attention of the visitor. By a long, enclosed pas- sageway across the river the traveler can reach the Palazzo Pittſ, situated on the left bank of the Arno. This palace is the residence of the King of Italy when he visits Florence. Its left wing contains the famous picture gallery formed of collections of the Medicis, which is a continuation of the Uffizi Gallery. |" are here a dozen of Raphael's most brilliant works, and Titian, Paolo —ly CHURCH OF SANTA MARIA Novº LL.A. Veronese, Rubens, Andrea del Sarto, Fra Bartolomeo, Tintoretto and many others are magnificently represented. “But Arno wins us to the fair white walls, “Where the Etrurian Athens claims and keeps “A softer feeling for her fairy halls. “Girt by her theatre of hills, she reaps “Her corn, and wine, and oil, and Plenty leaps “To laughing life, with her redundant horn. “Along the banks where smiling Arno sweeps “Was modern Luxury of Commerce born, “And buried Learning rose, redeem'd to a new morn.” –Byron, “Childe Harold's Pilgrimage.” Cour. TYARD, PALAzzo DEL PODESTA. - The Palazzo del Podesta, known as Il Bargello, was originally in the Thirteenth Century the residence of the Chief Magistrate of Florence, but in 1574 it was converted into a prison and police headquarters, and in the middle of the last century it was arranged as a National museum for the purpose of illustrating the mediaeval and modern art of Italy. The —ly - 61 - º, º/620. Żóse e Zzz/y. * ground floor contains a large and valuable col- lection of weapons of all kinds in two rooms which open on the delightfully mediaeval courtyard, ſrom which a fine stone staircase mounts to the upper floor. Here are ten interesting works in bronze and marble by Donatello, and a large collection of ni e l l o, carved work, bronze and terra - cotta reliefs by many well-known artists. “In Santa Croce's holy precincts lie “Ashes which make it holier, dust which is “Even in itself an immor- tality, “Though there were noth- ing save that past, and this, “The particles of those sublimities “Which have relapsed to chaos:—here repose “Angelo's, Alfieri's bones and his, “The starry Galileo, with his woes; “Here Machiavelli's earth returned to whence it rose.” –Byron, “Childe Harold's Pilgrimage.” Near the Bargeſſo are the Church of La Badía, with a beautiful Madonna by Filippino Lippi, and the Palazzo Quaratesi, the plan of which is attributed to Brunelleschi. The Church of Santa Croce, built by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1294, in the Gothic style, is the Pantheon of Florence, for in it rest many of her great men. The church contains frescoes by Giotto and his succes- sors, mostly restored. The marble pulpit by Benedetto da Majano is much admired. The Church of San- tissima Annunziata is entered through a court wnich is decorated with frescoes by Andrea del Sarto illustrating the life works of Saint Philip on one side, and the arrival of the Magiand Nativity of Mary on the other. In the cloisters near by is the tomb of Ben venuto Cellini, MONUMENT: GLULIANO DE MEDICI. and another beautiful MONUMENT: LORENZO DE MEDICI. - — 63 – * &/6a £3 see: Wºzz/y : fresco by Andrea del Sarto, the Madonna del Saco. The Museo Archeologico, with interesting Etruscan remains, is well worth a visit. The Church of Santa María Novelſa, dating from the year 1278, con- tains a Madonna said to be by Cimabue, and frescoes by Ghirlandajo and Filippino Lippi. The Sagrestia Nuova, New Sacristy, was built by Michael Angelo in 1520 as a Medici Mausoleum, and contains the celebrated monuments of Giuliano and Lorenzo de' Medici. The figure of Giuliano is that of a General of the Church, baton in hand. Below the figure is the sarcophagus containing Giuliano's remains, and on the sarcophagus repose the famous figures of Day and Night. The poet, Giovanni Battista Strozzi, a friend and admirer of Michael Angelo, wrote upon the figure of Night the following lines: “The night that here reposing thou dost see “An angel from the stone hath new created. “She sleeps, but life's flame is animated. “What! dost thou doubt? Wake her, she'll speak to thee. to which Michael Angelo replied, alluding to the tyranny that suppressed Flor- ence's liberty: “Sweet 'tis to sleep; and sweeter to be stone “In days which shame and vilest wrongs deprave; “Neither to see nor hear is all I crave; “Therefore speak low, and let me slumber on." On the opposite wall is the monument of Lorenzo de' Medici, who is repre- sented in deep meditation, with the figures of Evening and Dawn reposing on his sarcophagus. The Sacristy is part of the Church of San Lorenzo, founded in 394, and restored in the Eleventh Century, and one of the oldest churches in Italy. The Accademia di Beſſe Artſ contains but few great pictures; it is, however, noteworthy for its fine collection illustrating the development of Renaissance in painting. The Chiostro Deſſo Scalzo, with beautiful frescoes by Andrea del Sarto, illustrating scenes from the life of Saint John the Baptist, should be visited by the traveler. PONTE VECCHIO. “Taldeo Gaddi built me—I am old, “Five centuries old. I plant my foot of stone “Upon the Arno as Saint Michael's own “Was planted on the dragon. –Fold by fold “Beneath me as it struggles, I behold “Its glistening scales. Twice has it overthrown “My kindred and companions. –Me alone “It moveth not, but is by me controlled. “I can remember when the Medici “Were driven from Florence; longer still ago **The final wars of Ghibelline and Guelſ. “Florence adorns me with her jewelry; “And when I think that Michael Angelo “Hath leaned on me, I glory in myself.” —Longfellow. THE PONTE VECCH10. - 64 - * &/62, Ž& see: %2// º-º * Piazza di Santa Croce, The Ponte Vecchio, the most picturesque and quaintest bridge in the world, re-built in 1345 on the site of an early Roman bridge, is lined on either side of the way | il with shops belonging to the goldsmiths since the Fourteenth Century. It leads across the Arno to that part of Florence on the left bank of the river. It is not the oldest bridge, as the Ponte alle Grazie was built in 1237, the Ponte Santa Trinita in 1252, and the Ponte alla Carraja in 1218. The last- named bridge was destroyed in 1333 and rebuilt in 1337. In the monastery of San Marco, in which Fra Bartolom e o and Hous E OF DANT E. Girolamo Savonarola once lived, are shown the wonderful frescoes of Fra Angelico with which he decorated the cells of the monks. The house in which the great poet Dante Alighieri was born in 1265 can still be seen. Florence banished him and he died an exile at Rav- enna, but his native city in 1865 dedicated a monument to him in the consisting of a white marble statue and high pedestal, to atone in part for her ill-treatment of him while he was living. “Ungrateful Florence! Dante sleeps afar, “Like Scipio, buried by the upbraiding shore: “Thy factions, in their worse than civil war, “Prescribed the bard whose name for evermore **Their children's children would in vain adore “With the remorse of ages; and the crown “Which Petrarch's laureate brow supremely wore, - “Upon a far and foreign soil - had grown, | | | | | | | | | | | 1 “His life, his fame, his grave, --- though rifled – not thine own.” –Byron, “Childe Harold's - Pilgrimage.” DANTE's Monumº NT. CATHEDRAL AND LEANING TOWER, PISA. PISA. “The proud mart of Pisa, “Queen of the western waves, “Where ride Massilia's triremes “Heavy with fair-haired slaves.” —Macaulay's Lays. Pisa, once a Roman Colony, was in the Middle Ages one of the greatest commercial and maritime cities of the Mediterranean, and was once the rival of Genoa and Venice. After a long period of existence as an independent city and state, it was finally subdued in 1509 by Florence, passing under the control of that city. The principal sights in Pisa are the Cathedral, built in 1063, in the Roman- esque style, and containing paintings by Andrea del Sarto and Ghirlandajo; The Baptistery, begun in 1153, with a pulpit by Niccolo Pisano; - 65 — ---> &/620. Żó see Wºz// * The Campaniſe, or Leaning Tower, from which a beautiful view of the surrounding country can be had; The Campo Santo, with a green surrounded by a Cloister, which is deco- rated with frescoes by painters of the Tuscan School of the Fourteenth and Fifteenth Centuries. Leghorn, a large and important commercial city and a busy seaport, is modern and has no special attraction for the traveler. GENOA. “Genoa stands at the northwestern point of Italy, and is, as it were, its “key-note. No place is more entirely imbued with the characteristics, the “beauty, the color of Italy. Its ranges of marble palaces and churches rise “above the blue waters of its bay, interspersed with the brilliant green of orange “and lemon groves, and backed by swelling mountains; and it well deserves its "title of Genova la superba.” A. J. C. Hare’s “Cities of Northern and Central Italy.” Genoa, now the most important commercial seaport in Italy, was a powerful city in the Middle Ages, and contested with Venice in frequent wars the supremacy of the Mediterranean, which she partly won, gaining NORTH GERMAN LLOYD, IMPERIAL MAIL STEAMSHIP. the ascendency in the western part of the Mediterranean in the Thirteenth Century after having defeated Pisa. Genoa was pre-eminently a commercial city, and was cordially hated by her rivals, and especially by Pisa and FMorence, during the Middle Ages, as is shown by Dante's uncomplimentary reference to the Genoese of the Thirteenth Century: “Ah Genoesel ye men at variance “With every virtue, full of every vice, “Wherefore are ye not scattered from the world?” –Dante, “Divina Commedia, Inferno.” Longfellow's translation. Her harbor is an animated scene of activity and is entirely an artificial one, the shipping being protected by long moles or breakwaters. Her natural position is one of great beauty, especially when seen from the sea, with the grand wall of mountains rising amphitheatrically around her. Genoa is celebrated as the birthplace of Christopher Columbus, and a house is still shown there in which the great discoverer is said to have first seen the light of day. } -67 - * @%a Żó see /zz/y : Genoa’s churches, some of ancient origin, do not contain many art treasures, but the mag- nificent palaces that still adorn the city offer the traveler attractive collec- tions of paintings by Rubens, Van Dyck, Paris Bordone, Guercino and other famous masters. The principal palaces are the Paſazzo Munící- paſe, formerly Doria Tursi; Palazzo Rosso; Palazzo Bianco; Pa- Iazzo Darazzo Paſſa- | vícíní; Paſazzo Baſbí Senarega and Palazzo Doria. The Campo Santo, reached by trolley car, is well worth a visit. Genoa is the ter- minus in Itaſy of the Mediterranean Line of the North German Lloyd between New York and Italy. The traveler who is desirous of avoiding the railroad journey to Napſes and Rome from Genoa can avail himself of the frequent sailings of the Imperiaſ Maíſ Steamships of the North German Lloyd, which, on their way to China and Austraſta, call at Genoa and thence proceed to Napſes on their way to the East; or the traveler can take the New Yorksteam- ships of the North German Lloyd from Genoa to Naples. The time from Genoa to Naples by sea is about twenty hours. The Mediterranean Coast east and west of Genoa is known as the Riviera. Owing to its position on the southern side of the Alps Maritimes, it is completely Monum ENT IN THE CAM Po santo &/62o. Żó see Wºz// * * Gº/622, Żó see Wºz// * MENTONE. SAN REMO. sheltered from the north wind and is therefore in great favor with invalids The frontier between Italy and France reaches the sea at Ventimiglia. and with all who seek a mild climate during the winter months. Beyond are the well-known health resorts, Mentone, Monte Carſo, Cannes Its vegetation is luxuriant, and the picturesqueness of the landscape, with and Nice. To the east of Genoa, on the Riviera di Levante, are Nervi and towering mountains on one side and the blue Mediterranean on the other, is other smaller towns. very attractive. - - - - - “See the mountains kiss high heaven, “And the waves clasp one another." - —Shelley, "Love's Philosophy.” The sea coast on the west of Genoa is known as the Riviera di Ponente, that to the east of Genoa as the Riviera di Levante. Both parts of the Riviera contain many attractive towns and villages, charmingly situated and offering the traveler every inducement to tarry in this beautiful region. On the Riviera di Ponente the chief points are Pegli, Savona, Noli, Alassio, San Remo and Bordighera, famous for its flowers and palms. “I have been told that there are probably now more palms at Bordighera “alone than in the whole of the Holy Land.” –Dean Alford. MONTE CARLO CASINo. TURIN. "Perhaps of all the cities I have seen, Turin is the most beautifully placed "being situated on a fair and fertile plain, watered by a noble river, surrºunded "by a circle of majestic mountains, and blessed by an atmosphere of such "exquisite purity that every object is brought out to view with tenfold greater "effect, as far as clearness of vision is concerned, than any which can be hoped "for on the northern side of the Alps.” —Mrs. Trollope, “A Visit to Italy.” The first settlement of Túrin, the old Taurasia, was destroyed by Hannibal in 218 B. C. Turin was the centre from which the movement for the uni- fication of Italy started. It was during the Middle Ages the small capital of Piedmont, and finally became the residence of the Dukes of Savoy. When the Kingdom of Sardinia was established, Turín was the capital, and when the little Kingdom of Sardinia expanded and was transformed into the King- dom of Italy, the city remained the capital until the seat of government was transferred to Florence, and finally, in 1870, to Rome. - £ L- lºo RL-1. HERA. - – 69 - - 70 - * &/62, Ž3 see: 7.zz/y. º: - - - - º tº - . . . The Royal Palace contains the Royal Armory, harboring a choice collection of weapons, ancient and modern. The Picture Gaſſery, consisting of art collections originally made by the Dukes of Savoy, is chiefly noted for a number of fine paintings by the Netherland School. The Museum of Antiquities, with a large number of Egyptian antiquities, is well worth a visit. The Cathedraſ, built in 1492, contains a number of monuments of the House of Savoy. The panorama of the Alps from the Monte di Cappucini, or from the Superga, near Turín, reached by a cable tramway, is remarkably fine. The traveler should not omit a trip to the Sagra di San Mícheſe, reached by bridle-path from Sant' Ambrogio, a railroad station near Turín. This is a Benedictine Monastery, founded in 999 A. D., on the Monte Pirchtriano, from which there is a magnificent view of the Alps and of Piedmont. PLAZZA CASTELLO, TURIN. º –71 — º e/64, Zo see Zzz/y: -- CASTLE, TURIN. RAVENNA. “Ravenna in her widowhood—the waste “Where dreams a widowed ocean; where the hand “Of time has gently played with tombs defaced “Of priest and emperor; where the temples stand “Proud in decay, in desolation grand. “Solemn and sad, like clouds that lingeringly “Sail, and are loth to fade upon the sky.” —J. A. Symonds. Ravenna, one of the most ancient towns in Italy and once a populous seaport, is now six miles from the sea and a deserted city. It deserves the attention of the traveler as the best depository after Rome of early Christian art. The Cathedraſ (modern) contains some remains of the ancient church on which it is built. Near the Cathedraſ is the Baptistery of the Or- thodox, which is said to have originally been part of a Roman bath, and º which contains mosaics of the Fifth Century. The Capeſſa di San Pier Crísologo, dating from the Fifth Century, also contains ancient º mosaics. In the Museo Nazionale the traveler will find a fine collection of early Christian and Byzantine sculptures. The Churches of Sant” Agata, San Francesco, San Vítaſe, Spírito Santo with mosaics of the Sixth Century, San Giovanni Evangeſista with frescoes by Giotto, DANTE's Tom B, RAVENNA. –72 - * Gº/620. Żó see: Wºzz/y. Q--> --> *6%zo & see Wºz// * San Apoſſinare Nuovo, erected by Theodoric the Great, and containing mosaics of the Sixth Century, and the Mausoleum of Theodoric, known as Santa María Deſſa Rotonda, are well worthy of attention. Before leaving Ravenna, the traveler should visit Dante's tomb, a square structure surmounted by a dome. The poet died here in 1321 in exile. CHURCH OF SAN DOMENICO, BOLOGNA. BOLOGINA. “To enter Bologna at midnight is to plunge into the depths of the Middle “Ages. Those desolate, sombre streets, those immense dark arches, those "endless arcades where scarce a footfall breaks the silence, that labyrinth of “marble, of stone, of antiquity; the past alone broods over them all.” —Pascarel. Boſogna, an ancient town of the Umbrians and Etruscans, is renowned by reason of its great university, founded by Theodosius the Great in 425 and celebrated throughout Europe in the Middle Ages, when it is said at one time to have had 10,000 students. The Museo Cívico contains an interesting collection of antiquities, Etruscan and Roman, and of weapons and armor. In the Accademia di Beſſe Artſ the traveler will find a number of fine examples of Guido Reni, Lodovico and Annibale Carracci, Domenichino Guercino, Francesco Francia, Perugino, and last, but not least, Raphael, whose “St. Cecilia” is the great masterpiece in this gallery. The Churches of San Petronio in the Gothic style, San Domenico, con- taining two works of Michael Angelo, Santo Stefano and San Giacomo Maggiore contain good pictures, sculptures and carved work that should be inspected. MODENA. "Here they twine the vines around the trees and let them "trail along the hedges; and the vineyards are full of trees "regularly planted for this purpose, each with its own vine “twining and clustering around it. Their leaves in autumn are “of the brightest gold and deepest red, and never was there “anything so enchantingly graceful and full of beauty.” —Dickens, “Pictures from Italy.” Modena is chiefly known in art as the home of terra-cotta sculpture, which was developed here in the ſº Fifteenth and Sixteenth Centuries. The Cathedral A. |- | | contains sculptures by Giulio Romano, and carved choir stall by Cristoforo da Lendinara. The Aſbergo Artí is the home of the well-known picture gallery with treasures of art by Correggio, Cima da Conegliano, Paolo Veronese, Titian, Andrea del Sarto, Guido Reni, and others. PARMA. -- “Parma has cheerful, stirring streets for an "Italian town; and con- "sequently, is not so “characteristic as many "places of less note,_ “always excepting the “retired Piazza, where “the Cathedral, . “tistery, and Campanile “-ancient buildings, "of a sombre brown, "embellished with innu- "merable grotesque "monsters and dreamy- “looking creatures "carved in marble and “red stone—are clus- “tered in a noble and ! magnificent repose.” –Dickens, “Pictures from Italy.” The Cathedraſ con- tains an Assumption by Correggio, in the dome; the Baptistery shows some interesting sculp- tures around the portals and in the interior. In the Palazzo deſſa Piſotta are contained the Museo di Antichita, containing Roman and mediaeval remains, and the Picture Gaſſery with a large number of Correggios and Parmigianos. In the Church of San Gio- vanni Evangeſista can also be seen some fine specimens of Correggio. FERRARA. “Ferrara! in thy wide and grass-grown streets, “Whose symmetry was not for solitude, “There seems as "twere a curse upon the seats “Of former sovereigns, and the antique br "Of Este, which for many an age made gº “Its strength within thy walls, and was of yore “Patron or tyrant, as the changing mood “Of petty power impell’d, of those who wore "The wreath which Dante's brow alone had worn before.” –Byron, “Childe Harold's Pilgrimage.” DETAIL OF CATHEDRAL, MODENA. Ferrara was the home of the ancient family of Este, from which most of the pres- ent Royal families of Europe are descended. CATHEDRAL DOOR, PARMA. Under the patronage –74 – –73 - ---> * Gº/622, Żó see Wºz/y : CATHEDRAL, PARMA. of this distinguished family, art, and especially painting, was fostered and a distinct school, that of Ferrara, established. The Palazzo de' Diamanti contains the Civic Picture Gallery, with a number of fine examples of Garofalo; the Cathedraſ also contains some paintings by Garofalo. Mantua was founded by the Etruscans and is celebrated as the home of Virgil. Andrea Mantegna and Giulio Romano lived here, and specimens of their works may be seen in the Churches of Sant Andrea and in the Cathedraſ. Padua was well known in the Middle Ages, on account of its university, which was founded in 1222. The chief objects of interest are the Scuolo deſ Carmine, the Scuola deſ Santo, containing frescoes by Titian; the Church of Sant Antonio, the high altar in which was executed by Donatello; the º . º º º º -- --- | - - - - - º CATHEDRAL, FERRARA. — 75 - Q--> * &/62, Ž& see: ſzz/y. * º ... º º PADUA. Capella San Giorgio, with frescoes by Jacopo d'Avamo and Altichieri, the Churches of the Eremitant with frescoes by Andrea Mantegna, and of Madonna Deſſ' Arena, with frescoes by Giotto. The Picture Gallery in the Museo Cívico does not contain any important pictures. VENICE. "White swan of cities slumbering in thy nest “So wonderfully built among the reeds “Of the lagoon, that fences thee and feeds, "As sayeth thy old historian and thy guest! "White water-lily, cradled and caressed ... By ocean streams, and from the silt and weeds "Lifting thy golden filaments and seeds, “Thy sun-illumined spires, thy crown and crest. “White phantom city, whose untrodden streets "Are rivers, and whose pavements are the shifting "Shadows of palaces ..". of sky; "I wait to see thee vanish like the fleets “Seen in mirage, or towers of cloud uplifting “In air their unsubstantial masonry.” -Longfellow. VEN1c1. –76 - } * Gº/622, Żó see: 7.zz/y. º * &/ºz, ž; see /zz/y : | -- " - GRAND CANAL, VENICE. Venice, still practically the same in outward appearance as in the time of its ancient glory, is undoubtedly a most attractive city to the American traveler. On arrival, he steps from the railroad train into a gondola and glides through the network of canals to the door of his hotel. No noise of horses’ feet or carriage wheels on pavements reaches his ear; all is perfect quiet save for the voices of the gondoliers. The traveler, before starting on his round of sight-seeing, should undertake a trip through the city by gondola, traversing the Grand Canal from its mouth at the Piazetta to its end, and through some of its lateral canals. The centre of life in Venice is the Piazza di San Marco and the adjoining Piazetta. In fine weather the traveler should not neglect to } visit and observe the delicate tints brought out by the setting sun and the evening lights. “I stood in Venice, on the Bridge of Sighs: “A palace and a prison on each hand; “I saw from out the wave her structure rise “As from the stroke of the enchanter's wand: "A thousand years their cloudy wings expand “Around me, and a dying glory smiles “O'er the far times when many a subject land - Look'd to the wing'd lion's marble piles, "When Venice sate in state, throned, on her thousand isles.” -Byron, “Childe Harold's Pilgrimage.” – } * - BRIDGE OF SIGHS, VENICE. º º lºſſ. º - - - - - Dog E's PALACE, VENICE. VENICE IN MoonLIGHT. “Who talks of vanished glory and dead power, “Of things that were and are not? Is he here, “Can he take in the glory of this hour "And call it all the decking of a beer?” —Milne's, “Lines Written by Moonlight.” The exterior of the Doge's Palace is worthy of minute study, and the traveler should observe the beautiful carvings on the capitals of the columns supporting the upper arcade. The interior contains much that is highly inter- esting, including the Bridge of Sighs, connecting the palace with the prison. The Cathedraſ of Saint Mark's, the architecture of which is Byzantine, exercises an indescribable fascination, due, no doubt, mainly to its wonderful coloring. “The effects of Saint Mark's depend not only upon the most delicate sculp- “ture in every part but -- eminently on its color also, and that the "most subtle, variable, inexpressible color in the world—the color of glass, of “transparent alabaster, of polished marble and lustrous gold.” - –Ruskin, “Stones of Venice. " St. MARK's squaRE AND clock TOWER, VENICE. –!}. –77 – * &/6a Zo see 7zz/y. º PLAZZA AND CAMPANILE, VENICE. wrºnic E. “Oh beautiful beneath the magic moon, “Fantastically perfect this low pile “To walk the watery way of palaces! ... Of Qriental glory; these long ranges “Oh beautiful o'er vaulted with gemmed blue “Of classic chiseling, this gay flickering crowd “This spacious court with color and with gold, “And the calm Campanile beautiful! “With cupolas and pinnacles and points. - - - - - - - - - - - “Then at once “At a step, I crown the Campanile's top “And view all mapped below; islands, lagoon “A hundred "...ſº and a myriad roofs, “The fruitful champagne and the cloud capped Alps, “And the broad Adriatic.” - —Arthur Hugh Clough, “In Venice.” From Dipsychus. The Campaniſe, landmark of Venice, built in 888, and re-built in 1329, in the Piazza opposite the Duomo, collapsed in 1902, but is now being rebuilt on the same spot and in the same style but on securer foundations. The Accademia di Beſſe Artí, containing pictures of the Venetian School, and especially Titians and Paolo Veroneses, is of the highest interest; also the Scuoſa di San Roc co, with master- pieces of Titian and Tintoretto, and the Museo Cívico, with a collection of sculptures and paintings. All the Churches of Venice are worthy of inspection, and contain objects of interest to the traveler. “In Venice Tasso's echoes are no more, “And silent rows the song- less gondolier; “Her palaces are crumb- ling to the shore, “And music meets not always now the ear; “Those days are gone—but Beauty still is here. “States fall, arts fade—but nature doth not die, . “Noryct forget how Venice once was dear, “The pleasant place of all festivity *Thºrºſ of the earth, the masque of Italy!". –Byron, “Childe CHURCH OF SANTA MARIA LELLA 5ALUTE. Harold's Pilgrimage.” * &/62, Žo see Zzz/y : CANAL SCENE, VENICE. Several of the large palaces along the Grand Canaſ can be visited (the porters in charge expect a small fee), and the traveler can spend weeks in roam- ing through the ancient city, through the canal or on foot, without exhausting its interesting features. Excursions by gondola can be made to the Lido, or sandspit, separating the Lagoon of Venice from the open sea; or to Marano, the seat of the Venetian Glass Industry; or to Burano and Torceſſo, where lace-making may be seen; or to Chioggia, noteworthy on account of the quaint costume of the women. “As in the arsenal of the Venetians “Boils in the winter the tenacious pitch, “To smear their unsound vessels o'er again, “For sail they cannot; and instead thereof “One makes his vessel new, and one recaulks “The ribs of that which many a voyage has made; "One hammers at the prow, one at the stern, "This one makes oars, and that one cordage twists, “Another mends the mainsail and the mizzen.” - Dante, " Divina Commedia. Interno.” Longfellow's translation. || || - º * ºld. º - PALAZZA HOSCAR1 E. REZZONINGo. so * Gº/622, Żó see /zz// ---> -- * §§ * Gº/622, Żó see /ø// ºr. VERONA, PONTE PIETR E. The old Arsenal of Venice, founded in 1104, in which, in the height of Venice's power, 16,000 workmen were employed, contains an interesting collection of weapons and ancient models of ships. Beyond the Arsenaſ are the Public Gardens, in which is erected the Palazzo deſſ' Esposízione Artistica, for the biennial exhibition of modern paintings. VERONA. "Is this the Mincius? “And not a stone, in a cross way, inscribed “Are those the distant turrets of Verona” "To mantua'-and ‘to Ferrara'—but excites “And shall I sup where Juliette at the masque "Surprise, and doubt and self congratulation. "Saw her loved Montague and now sleeps by him? “Oh Italy, how beautiful thou art!” "Such questions hourly do I ask myself; -Rogers, “From Italy.” Verona has a very ancient history. She was a Roman Colony before the Christian era, and there is still a well-preserved amphitheater, built in 290 A.D., - - - - - - - TOMBS OF THE scal-IGERS, VERONA. MILAN. and capable of accommodating 20,000 spectators, in one of the piazzas of the city. The Palazzo deſ Consigſto, or City Hall, is ascribed to the architect Fra Giocondo, who was born in Verona in the Fifteenth Century. Near the City Hall are the well-known and imposing Tombs of the Scaſi- gers, each tomb surmounted by an equestrian mailed figure with lance and helmet. The Church of Sant' Anastasia, the Cathedraſ and the Church of San Zeno Maggiore, one of the best types of Romanesque architecture in Northern Italy, and dating from 1138, are well worth a visit. “Come, go with me; go sirrah trudge about “Through fair Verona." -Shakespeare, “Romeo and Juliet.” The Picture Gallery in the Palazzo Pompet contains paintings of Titian, Cima da Conegliano and Paolo Veronese, and other works of the Veronese School. - || || || 1 - CATH EDRAL, MILAN. – 82 - ºr-º- º/6a, 7& see /zz/y. MILAN. Milan . . . may be ranked among the few cities of Italy which "have, I will not say escaped, but risen superior to the devastation of ages, "wars and revolutions, and brought down to modern times the greatest part, “if not the whole, of their ancient celebrity.” -Eustace, “A Classical Tour Through Italy.” The Picture Gaſſery in the Paſazzo di Brera contains a large number of valuable paintings, among which Raphael's Sposalizio is easily first. Giovanni and Gentile Bellini, Cima da Conegliano, Titian, Tintoretto, Cor- reggio, Guercino, Ru- bens, Van Dyck and Rembrandt are repre- sented in this remarkably fine collection. The Museo Archeo- logico ed Artístico includes prehistoric remains discovered in Northern Itaſy, besides sculptures mediaeval and modern. The famous “Last Supper,” by Leonardo da Vinci, was painted as a fresco in the former refectory of the monas- tery adjoining the Church of Santa María deſſe Grazie. It has unfortun- ately been very much damaged and has faded. The Church of Sant' Ambrogío, founded by Saint Ambrose in the Fourth Century, contains mosaics in the tribuna of the Ninth Century. It was in the first church on this spot that Saint Augustine was baptized by Saint Ambrosius, in 387, and this was the church the doors of which Saint Ambrosius closed to the Emperor Theodosius after the massacre of Thessalonica. Other churches church of Sant' Ambrogio, MILAN. LAKE MAGſ. It jRE. -83 – * Gº/622, Żó see Zºz// * 7--> LAKE LUGANO. of the Fourth Century are San Lorenzo and Sant’ Eastorgio, both with interesting mosaics and frescoes. “O Milan, O the enchanting quires, "I climb'd the roof at break of day; “The giant windows' blazon'd fires, “Sun-smitten Alps before me lay. “The height, the space, the gloom, the glory ! " I stood among the silent statues, “A mount of mark, e, a hundred spires! “And statued pinnacles, mute as they.” -Tennyson, “The Daisy.” The central attraction of Miſan is its celebrated white marble Cathedral, begun at the end of the Fourteenth Century and consecrated in 1577. The façade was not completed until the beginning of the Nineteenth Century, but it was so out of harmony with the other parts of the structure that the work of reconstruction of the entire façade has recently been undertaken. The interior of the Cathedral is particularly impressive, and by many is preferred to the architecture of the exterior. 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R R A N * *. º º “y *. s E. | A. - - - ------- -- ...” - ---- *— º ºs y | - || “.…"4.º.º. - … . .” - - - º - -- i. - -S ſº. * - -- N A N - - - º - - -º- - - - \ yº —ºn |- LºC & . - ............ tº ... **** ºr QS | - - º S. 1. c I 1. ſ A º ---- --------- ºw * * * * -* *- - - --- Lºwºrwar ºar º- anº-wºº, - * º * - tº- º- * **/6a, 7&see /zz/y. 3. - SMOKING ROOM, NORTH GERMAN LLOYD STEAMSHIP, MEDITERRANEAN service. “Hills peep o'er hills, and Alps on Alps arise.”—Pope, “Essay on Criticism.” They are easily reached by rail from Milan to Como in one hour. At Como, the traveler embarks on a steamboat, which bears him up the lake to Cad- enabbia, Beſſegro or Menaggio. From the last-named point he can proceed to Lugano, on Lake Lugano, and thence to Paſſanza, on Lake Maggiore, opposite the lovely Borromean island. Isola Beſſa and Isola Madre. Lake Garda is reached by rail to Desenanzo or Peschiera, and thence by steamboat on the lake to any one of the many beautiful towns and villages on its shores. Having completed his contemplated tour through Italy, the traveler can now either return to New York by the steamships of the North German Lloyd, from Genoa or Naples, or he can pass from Italy into Switzerland and Germany, embarking on the steam- ships of the North German Lloyd at their home port of Bremen; or he may turn into France, and take one of the steamships of the same Company at Cherbourg, France; or at Southampton, England. The traveler will find the following books helpful in preparing the mind to enjoy a tour through Itaſy: Sketches and Studies in Italy and Greece, by J. A. Symonds. Itaſian By-ways, by J. A. Symonds. Renaissance in Italy, by J. A. Symonds. Cities of Southern Italy and Sicily, by A. J. C. Hare. C#: of Northern and Central Italy, by A. J. C. are. Hiſſ Towns of Italy, by Egerton R. Williams, Jr. Seven Lamps of Architecture, by Ruskin. Stones of Venice, by Ruskin. Venice, by A. J. C. Hare. Italian Journeys, by W. D. Howells. Venetian Life, by W. D. Howells. Tuscan Cities, by W. I). Howells. Cuſtur der Renais- sance in Italien, by Burkhardt. Life of Michael Angelo by Herm. Grimm. PILOT COMING ON. Lio ARD Olºlº sani). Y. Hook. &/620. Żó see /zz// * Voyage en Itaſſe, by Taine. - Life on the Lagoon, by Horatio F. Brown. Venice, by Horatio F. Brown. Venetian Studies, by Horatio F. Brown. Historicaſ Sketch of the Republic, by Horatio F. Brown. Makers of Florence, by Mrs. Oliphant. - Makers of Venice, by Mrs. Oliphant. Picturesque Sicily, by Wm. A. Paton. Wayfarers in Itaſy, by Katharine Hooker. Assist, by Lina Duff Gordon. Fiorence, by Edmund G. Gardner. Perugia, by Marg. Symonds and Lina Duff Gordon. Rome, by Norwood Young. Verona, by Alethea Wiel. Siena, by Edmund G. Gardner. Ferrara, by Ella Noyes. Ravenna, by Edmund G. Gardner. GUIDE BOOKS FOR ITALY. Baedeker’s Handbook for Travelers, in Three Voſs. 1.-Northern Italy, including Leghorn, Florence and Ravenna. 2.-Central Italy and Rome. 3.-Southern Itaſy and Sicily, also Sardinia, Malta, Tunis and Corfu. Murray's Handbook for Travelers, in Three Voſs. 1.-Northern Italy. 2.—Central Italy. 3.-Southern Italy. McMaſſen's Guide to Itaſy. Grant Aſſen's Cities of Northern McMaſſen’s Western Mediterra- Italy. 112a11. Rome of To-day and Yesterday, A. J. C. Hare's Waſks in Rome. by John Dennie. Grant Aſſen's Guide to Florence. vil-LA PAMPHILI, Rovi E. North GERMAN Lloyd. Home Office: Bremen, Germany. Telegraphic Address: Lloyd, Bremen. Milan . . Gio Corr. Meiss. Monte Carlo Smith Bank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Smank, Monte Carlo. Nice . . . Norddeutscher Lloyd . . . . 14 Avenue Felix Faure Nordlloyd, Nice. Palermo . Angelo Tagliavia & Co. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angelo, Palermo. Venice . . Fischer & Rechsteiner, Succrºs . . . . . . . . . . Fischer Rechstein, Venice. Paris . . . Norddeutscher Lloyd . . 2 Rue Scribe . . . Nordlloyd, Paris. Vienna . . Capt. A. Fernickel . . . . Grand Hotel . . . Nordlloyd, Vienna. Berlin . . Capt. C.Arnold . . . . . . Hotel Bristol . . Nordlloyd, Berlin. London . . Keller, Wallis & Co. . . . 14 Cockspur Street . . Teutonic, London. Munich . . H. G. Koehler . . . . . . Hotel Bayerischer Hof Nordlloyd, Munich. £ – – ) AGENTS IN ITALY. City. Name of Agent. Address. Telegraphic Address. Genºa . . Leupold Fratelli . . . . . . 10 Piazza San Siro . . Nordlloyd, Genoa. Naples . . Aselmeyer & Co. . . . . . tº Corso Re Umberto - Nordlloyd, Naples. Rome . . North German Lloyd . . . . Corso Umberto I, No. 395 & 3.06 . . . - - Nordlloyd, Rome. - 24 Via Tornabuoni. Florence . French, Lemon & Co. ---> -86 – | - - | - - - sº §§ §§