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REPORT.º.º. ca.
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TELIE TRIECO
NOTIWS RN WYOMING,
LLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK,
MIADE IN
THE SUMMER OF 1873
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WILLIAM A. J.ON Es,
CAPTAIN OF ENGINEERS U. S. A.
witH APPENDIX.
W ASEH IN GT ON :
G O W E R N M E N T P R IN TI N G O F F I C E . .
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NOTE.-Chapters IX to XV, inclusive, of Professor Comstock's Geological Repor
were prepared after the Congressional Document [H. R. Ex. Doc. No. 285, 43d Cong.
1st sess.] had gone through the press, and consequently do not appear in that editio
of the report. See Appendix.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
LETTERS OF TRANSMITTAL.
GENERAL REPORT.
CHAPTER I.
DESCRIPTIVE JOURNAL,
Page.
Fort Bridger—Pacific Springs—Hostile Indians—South Pass–Sweetwater River
—Camp Stambaugh—Camp Brown—Shoshone Agency—Hot Sulphur Springs
—Wind River—Owl Creek Mountains—Valley of the Big Horn—Discovery of
the Sierra Shoshone—Ascent of the Washakee Needles—Shoshone Willage—
Washakie—Indian scouts—Stinking water River—Crossing the Sierra Sho-
shone—Stinking water Pass—Yellowstone Lake—Great Falls on Grand Cañon
—Explanation of origin—Hot Springs on Orange Creek—Great Hot Springs on
Gardiner's River—Description and explanation—Fossil gas-bubbles—Amethyst
Mountain—Fossil trees with hollows containing crystals of amethyst—Geyser
Basins—Yellowstone Lake—“Our Twenty-eighth Hop"—Ascent of Mount
Sheridan—A deserted camp—Trouble with Indian scouts—Upper Yellowstone
River—Discovery of “Two-Ocean Water”—The Three Tetons—Discovery of
Togwotee Pass—Teton Basin—Head of Wind River—Return to Camp Brown. 5–44
CHAPTER II.
PIHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY . *
General description—Green River Basin—North Platte Basin—Wind-Big Horn
Basin–Yellowstone-Teton Basin–Indian trails........ --- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 45–55.
CHAPTER III.
THE YELLOWSTONE ROUTE TO MONTANA.
A short route to the Yellowstone National Park. --- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 55–58
CHAPTER IV.
MIFTEOROLOGY.
Instruments—Climate of Green River—Big Horn and Yellowstone-Teton Basins—
Probable region of equable precipitation of rain—Table of altitudes—Table of
Weather observations.----------------------------------------------------- 5S–Sf
S
Š
IV TABLE OF CONTENTS.
ASTRONOMICAL REPORT.
BY LIEUT. S. E. BLUNT, TIIIRTEENTII UNITED STATES INFANTRY.
- Page.
Instruments-Failure of chronometers—Examples of computations............ 81–84
\ ,
GEOLOGICAL REPORT.
BY PROF. T.H.EO, B. COMISTOCK.
CHAPTER I.
INTRODUCTION.
Explanation—General plan of geological report—Narrative of special trips..... . 85–95
CHAPTER II.
I’EIYSICAL GEO GIR-APII.Y.
General surface-features—Mountains, plateaus or table-lands—River systems... 93-102
CHAPTER III.
STRATICRAPIIY, MIETAMORPHIC AND PALEOZOIC.
Introduction—Pre-silurian era—Silurian system—Potsdam Sandstone—Quebec
group—Niagara limestone—Devonian system—Oriskany sandstone–Carbonif-
erous system—Subcarboniferous linestone.--------------------------------102-116
CHAPTER IV.
STRATIGRAPIIY, CONTINUED–MIESOZOIC AND TEIRTIAIRY.
Triassic system—Jurassic, Cretaceous, and Tertiary systems—Age of the Lignite
formation.---------------------------------------------------------------116-133
CHAPTER V.
STRATIGRAPHY, CONTINUED–PoST-TERTIARY AND RECENT.
Glacial and Champlain epochs—Terrace epoch. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 133-144
CHAPTER VI.
STRATIGRAPHY-RECAPITULATION.—GENERAL REVIEW, WITII ECONOMIC GEOLOGY.
Fort Bridger and Uintah Mountains—Northward to South Pass and Camp Stam-
baugh—Sweetwater gold mines—To Camp Brown and across Wind River Valley
—Owl Creek Mountains, Sierra Shoshone, &c.—Yellowstone Park and return. - 144–153
CHAPTER VII.
DYNAMICAL GEOLOGY-ISLEVATION, EROSION, AND DENUDATION.
Mountain elevation—Erosion and denudation.—Glacial action—Aqueous action
—Peculiar effects of erosion—Wind action... --- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -153–170
TABLE OF CONTENTS. V
Page.
CHAPTER VIII.
DYNAMICAL GICOLOGY, CONTINUED–BIOLOGICAL AND CHEMICAL ACTION.
Effects of plant and animal life—Weathering of rocks—Chemical changes and
products—“Alkali” deposits—Conclusion. -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 170–183
CHAPTER IX.
TLIERMO-DYNAMICES-IGNEO US ROCIKS AND HOT SIPIRINGS.
Wolcanic action—Fissure and crater eruptions—Thermal Springs—I. Turbid Lake
Group—II. Steamboat Group—III. Green Spring Sulphur (!) Hills, &c.—IV.
Mud volcanoes and crater hills—V. Forest Group—WI. Wayside Group, &c.—
VII. Bath Spring near Camp Brown ------------------------------ tº º sº sº º sº, sº º ºs 183—200
CHAPTER X.
TIILRMO-DYNAMICES, CONTINUED–DESCRIPTION OF IIoT SPRINGs, CONTINUEI).
VIII. White Mountain Hot Springs of Gardiner's River—First seven terraces—
Eighth terrace—Ninth terrace and beyond.----. sº º ºs º º ºs e º sº º me tº º sº sº ºr * * * * * * * * * * * * 200–215
CHAPTER XI.
THERMO-DYNAMICS, CONTINUED–DESCRIPTION OF HOT SPRINGS, CONTINUED.
IX. Prairie Group, Warm Spring Creek—X. Silica jets on branch of Warm Spring
Creek—XI. Brimstone Group—XII. Hot Springs on East Fork, Madison
River—XIII. Prominent bowls of Lower Fire-Hole Valley—XIV. Half-Way
Group ---------- tº dº gº tº sº gº ºn sº tº e º gº tº dº tº dº º ºs e º ºs is sº e s = * * * * * * * * * * * tº º tº º º tº sº * * * * * * * * * * * * * 215–230
^* CHAPTER XII.
TIILRMO-DYNAMICs, CONTINUED–DESCRIPTION OF HOT SPRINGS, CONCLUDED.
XV. Principal bowls of Upper Geyser Basin—XVI. Hot Springs on Southwest
arm of Yellowstone Lake, Group No. 1—XVII. Southwest arm of Yellowstone
Lake, Group No. 2—XVIII. Thermal Springs above Heart Lake, at base of
Red Mountains–Conclusion --------------------------------------- ... ------230-241
CHAPTER XIII.
THERMIO-DYNAMICS, CONCLUDED–DESCRIPTION OF GEYSERS AND SUMMARY,
Distribution and general remarks—A. Group on East Fork of Madison River—B.
Geysers of Lower Basin, Fire-Hole River—C. Geysers of Upper Basin, Fire-Hole
River—Generalizations - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * dº º sº tº dº sº tº º s 241–259
CHAPTER XIV.
AIRCILEOLOGY, WITII MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF EASTERN SLIOSHONES.
I. Archaeology—a. Wrought flakes—b. Spear-heads and arrow-heads—c. Stone
circles and other relics of sun-worshipers (?)—d. Stone columns, graves,
&c.—e. Rock-inscriptions. II. Eastern Shoshones or Washakie Band—a. Gen-
eral and social character—b. Traditions and superstitions—c. Expression of
emotions—d. Society, government, &c.—e. Musical expression—f. Ornament
and “medicine” forms. ---- * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 259–279
CHAPTER XV.
I?IIILOLOGICAL NOTES ON TILE EASTERN SIIC)SII ONE DIALECT.
General remarks on pronunciation—Phonic elements of Shoshone dialect, with
tables—Comparative vocabulary of two hundred words, with etymology—Brief
outline of Shoshone grammar—Compound words—Numerals—Inflection of
nouns, verbs, &c.—Illustrative sentences.------- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - tº ſº tº sº º ſº tº 279-291
VI TABLE OF CONTENTS.
HEPORT ON MILNERAL AND THERMAL WATERS.
BY ASSISTANT SURGEON C. L. HEIZMANN, U. S. A.
Page.
Qualitative analyses of river and spring waters—Spring deposits, &c.—Thera-
peutical considerations. ------------------------------------------------393-307
BOTANICAL REPORT.
BY DR. C. C. PARRY.
List of plants collected.------------------------- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 308-314
ENTOMOLOGICAL REPORT.
BY J. D. PUTNAM.
List of insects collected.--- - - - - - - - - - - - - - ------------------ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -315–318
APPENDIX.
Correspondence relative to printing additional chapters of Geological Report—Mil-
itary wagon-road in Wyoming and Montana Territories. -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 321–326
MAPS.
º
Map of Western Wyoming, showing region traversed; scale Erºſiſ, ; forty-nine trail-
maps, showing detailed topography; geological map, (colored ;) scale gut'ſuw.
L E T T E R.
FROM
THE CHIEF CLERK OF THE WAR DEPARTMENT,
TRANSMITTING
A report upon the recommaissance of Northwestern Wyoming, made in the
summer of 1873 by Captain William A. Jones, Corps of Engineers.
The Chief Clerk of the War Department, in the absence of the Secretary
of War, has the honor to transmit to the House of Representatives, in
compliance with resolution of the House of the 20th ultimo, report of a
reconnaissance made by Captain W. A. Jones, Corps of Engineers, in the
year 1873, for a wagon-road from the line of the Union Pacific Railroad,
in Wyoming Territory, to the Yellowstone National Park and Fort
Ellis, Montana Territory, together with letter of the Chief of Engineers,
of the 13th instant, transmitting the same.
f H. T. CROSBY,
Chief Clerk.
WAR DEPARTMENT, June 16, 1874.
OFFICE OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERs,
R Washington, D. C., June 13, 1874.
SIR: In compliance with the reference to this Office of a resolution of
the House of Representatives of the 20th ultimo, I have the honor to
transmit here with a copy of a report of a reconnaissance of Northwestern
Wyoming, made in the summer of 1873, by Captain W. A. Jones, Corps
of Engineers, chief engineer of the Department of the Platte, under the
orders of Brig. Gen. E. O. C. Ord, commanding that department.
It would appear from the report of Captain Jones that the wagon-road
to Montana, by the Yellowstone Park, proposed by him, would open a
route that, Whatever may be the advantages of the Missouri River route,
would tend to keep down rates, and would prove advantageous to the
Government in the transportation of military and Indian supplies.
The route passes the military posts of Camp Stambaugh and Camp
Brown and the Crow Indian agency, and is stated to be the shortest
and most practicable route to the Yellowstone Park and Montana; trav-
ersing a fine mineral and agricultural country in the Wind River Val-
ley ; an extensive area of well-timbered and well-watered country about
the upper valleys of the Snake and Yellowstone Rivers, where the soil is
fertile and the rain falls equably through the season; and also a fine agri-
cultural country in the valley of the Yellowstone below the falls.
It would give an outlet to the mineral and agricultural resources of
Montana, which is stated by Captain Jones to be one of the most pro-
ductive mining regions of the West; and, in that connection, it is to be
H. Ex. 285 1.
2 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
noted that this route would save two hundred and fifty miles of railroad
transportation, or the distance from Point of Rocks to Corinne, which is
the present point of departure on the Union Pacific Railroad for the
posts in Montana.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,
A. A. HUMPHREYS,
Brigadier-General and Chief of Engineers.
Hon. W.M. W. BELKNAP,
Secretary of War.
Unexpected delay has occurred in the copying of the maps by which
the report is accompanied, and they will be transmitted within a few
Clays.
HEADQUARTERS DEPARTMENT OF THE PLATTE,
OFFICE OF THE ENGINEER OFFICER,
Omaha, Nebr., May 9, 1874.
SIR : I have the honor to transmit here with my final report upon the
military reconnaissance of North Western Wyoming, made during the
summer of 1873.
I take great pleasure in thanking my associates in the field-work for
their uniform courtesy and devotion to duty; the officers of the depart-
ment staff for their kindly and efficient assistance While I Was prepar-
ing my outfit for the field; the officers and men of Company I, Second
Cavalry, for their constant and Willing assistance; Lieut. R. H. Young,
Fourth Infantry, for his extremely arduous and efficient Services as
acting assistant quartermaster and assistant commissary of subsistence
for the expedition ; and Mr. Charles Curtis, pack-master, for his untiring
energy and enthusiastic devotion to duty.
The report is accompanied by the following reports, viz:
Botany, by Dr. C. C. Parry :
Geology, by Professor T. B. Comstock;
Astronomy, by Lieut. S. E. Blunt, Thirteenth Infantry;
Entomology, by J. D. Putnam ; and
One map (in the preparation of which valuable information was ob-
tained from the maps of Professor Hayden and Captains Barlow and
Heap, United States Engineers) showing the region traversed, and
forty-nine trail-maps, showing, on a large Scale, the topography along
each day’s march.
Considering the extremely successful results in that field, the report
upon botany is rather more meager than I had anticipated. Ten new
species were collected, none of which are described.
Dr. Heizmann's report upon mineral and thermal waters has not yet
reached me; delayed, I suppose, by his sickness. It will be transmitted
as soon as I receive it. *
In conclusion, permit me, sir, to thank you for your kindly interest and
constant and intelligent assistance, to Which much of our success must
be ultimately attributed.
I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant,
W. A. JONES,
Captain of Engineers.
Brig. Gen. E. O. C. ORD,
Commanding Department of the Platte.
* Report since received, and is appended hereto,
RECONNAISSANCE OF NoRTHwBSTERN Wyoming. 3
HEADQUARTERS DEPARTMENT OF THE PLATTE,
Omaha, Nebr., May 11, 1874.
SIR. : Captain Jones's report and accompanying maps of an exploration
of Northwestern Wyoming are here with inclosed. He received from me,
besides the written instructions stated in the report, verbal directions
to find, if possible, a good route from the south, via the Wind River Val-
ley and Upper Yellowstone, into Montana, which the report shows he
accomplished.
The trail-maps give a correct and detailed picture of the country
passed over; the reports of the geologist and botanist, with Captain
Jones's description, explain its resources and capacity to support a large
population, and show that the country to the south and West, and in the
vicinity of Yellowstone Lake, will not, for agricultural purposes, require
irrigation, as does the most of Wyoming and Montana.
Valuable minerals were found, especially in the Wind River and
Shoshone Mountains.
The fact that this route, north of the Wind River Valley, passes
through a timbered country, over which the mild southwest winds
prevail in winter, renders it probable that, even at great elevations, it
is not liable to drifting snows. Its shortness compared with the pres-
ent traveled route via Corinne, the mildness of the climate, fertility of
the soil, and abundance of water, coal, wood, &c., in the Wind River Valley,
are strong reasons for opening the route for the use of the military posts,
and the people of Montana, which section is languishing for the want of
an outlet for its valuable mineral and agricultural productions.
I therefore recommend that Congress be asked for an appropriation
of $60,000 to open a wagon-road from Camp Brown, or some convenient
point on the Union Pacific Railroad, to Fort Ellis, or Helena, Montana.
I am, sir, Very respectfully, your obedient servant,
E. O. C. ORD,
Brigadier-General Commanding.
The ADJUTANT-GENERAL UNITED STATES ARMY,
Through Headquarters Military Division
of the Missouri, Chicago, Ill.
[First indorsement.]
HEADQUARTERS MILITARY DIVISION OF THE MISSOURI,
Chicago, May 15, 1874,
Respectfully forwarded to the headquarters of the Army.
P. H. SHERIDAN,
Lieutenant-General Commanding.
[Second indorsement.]
• HEADQUARTERS OF THE ARMY,
Washington, May 18, 1874.
Respectfully forwarded to the Adjutant-General.
By command of General Sherman :
WILLIAM D. WEHIPPLE,
Assistant Adjutant-General.
4 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING,
[Third indorsement.]
WAR DEPARTMENT, ADJUTANT-GENERAL's OFFICE,
Washington, May 19, 1874.
Respectfully referred to the Chief of Engineers. To be returned.
E. D. TOWNSEND,
Adjutant. General.
CHICAGO, May 16, 1874.
COLONEL : The inclosed order” was issued in order to give Capt.
William A. Jones, Engineer Corps, a chance to have his work of last
summer published; but I wish it to be distinctly understood that I in
no manner can indorse the contemplated road from the Point of Rocks,
on the Union Pacific Railroad, to Fort Ellis, via Yellowstone Lake, as a
military necessity.
If the Government desire to make appropriation for the benefit of the
mining population at Atlantic City, and the settlers in and about Camp
Brown in the Popo Agie Valley, I have no objection; but I am not pre-
pared to give even a shadow of support to anything SO absurd as the
military necessity for such a road. ©
The land-transportation now, via Carroll on the Missouri River, to
Port Ellis is only two hundred and twenty miles, over a good road.
I am, colonel, very respectfully, your obedient servant,
P. H. SHERIDAN,
Lieutenant-General Commanding.
Col. W. D. WHIPPLE,
Assistant Adjutant-General,
Headquarters of the Army, Washington, D. C.
[First indorsement.]
HEADQUARTERS OF THE ARMY,
Washington, May 19, 1874.
Official copy respectfully forwarded to the Secretary of War.
- W. T. SHERMAN,
& General.
[Second indorsement.]
WAR DEPARTMENT, ADJUTANT-GENERAL's OFFICE,
Washington, May 20, 1874.
Respectfully referred to the Chief of Engineers, to whom was referred
the report of Captain Jones of his explorations in Northwestern Wyo-
ming, on the 19th instant. To be returned.
By order:
E. D. TOWNSEND,
Adjutant-General.
* Special Order No. 30, Headquarters Military Division of the Missouri, May 15, 1874.
G E N E R A L R E PO R. T.
C EIA P T E R I.
DESCRIPTIVE JOURNAL,
Fort Bridger—Pacific Springs—Hostile Indians—South Pass–Sweetwater River—
Camp Stambaugh—Camp Brown–Shoshonee agency—Hot Sulphur Spring–Wind
River—Owl Creek Mountains—Valley of the Big Horn–Discovery of the Sierra
Shoshonee–Ascent of the Washakee Needles–Shoshonee Village–Washakee—Indian
Scouts—Stinking water River—Crossing the Sierra Shoshonee–Stinking water Pass—
Yellowstone Lake—Great Falls on Grand Cañon—Explanation of origin—Hot Springs
on Orange Creek—Great Hot Springs on Gardiner's River—Description and explana-
tion—Fossil gas-bubbles—Amethyst Mountain—Fossil trees with hollows containing
crystals of amethyst –Geyser basins—Yellowstone Lake—“Our Twenty-eighth
Hop”—Ascent of Mount Sheridan—A deserted camp—Trouble with Indian scouts—
Upper Yellowstone River—Discovery of “Two-Ocean Water”—The Three Tetons—
Bºry of Togwotee Pass—Teton Basin—Head of Wind River—Return to Camp
TOWI).
[Special Orders No. 80.—Extract.]
HEADQUARTERS DEPARTMENT OF THE PLATTE,
Omaha, Neb., May 15, 1873.
4. Capt. William A. Jones, Corps of Engineers, will proceed as soon as practicable
to Northwestern Wyoming, and there make a reconnaissance of the country within the
territory about the headwaters of the Snake, Green, Big Horn, Grey Bull, Clark's Fork,
and Yellowstone Rivers. He will organize and equip his party at Fort Bridger.
Second Lieut. S. E. Blunt, Thirteenth Infantry, will accompany Captain Jones as
assistant.
Assistant Surgeon C. L. Heizmann, United States Army, will report to Captain Jones
for duty with the expedition, and to the commanding officer of the escort as medical
officer for the troops. -
The acting assistant quartermaster and assistant commissary of subsistence appointed
by the commanding officer of the escort for his troops will perform the duties of assist-
ant quartermaster and assistant commissary of subsistence for the expedition.
5. Company I, Second Cavalry, (Noyes's,) is detailed as escort for the reconnaissance
of Northwestern Wyoming by Captain Jones, Corps of Engineers. The company will
proceed by rail on the 4th proximo to join Captain Jones's party at Fort Bridger.
The Quartermaster's Department will furnism the necessary transportation.
* & * * * * *
8. Second Lieut. R. H. Young, Fourth Infantry, will report in person to Capt. H. E.
Noyes, Second Cavalry, for temporary duty with his company.
* * * * :- * }:
By command of Brigadier-General Ord.
GEO. D. RUGGLES,
Assistant Adjutant-General.
In compliance with the above order I organized an expedition in
Omaha, Nebr., consisting of the following persons, viz.: Professor T. B.
Comstock, geologist; Dr. C. C. Parry, clerk, botanist, and meteorolo
gist; Assistant Surgeon C. L. Heizmann, U. S. A., chemist; Second
Lieut. S. E. Blunt, Thirteenth Regiment of Infantry, astronomer ;
Second Lieut. R. H. Young, Fourth Regiment of Infantry, acting assist-
ant quartermaster and assistant commissary of subsistence; four topog-
raphers, one astronomical assistant, one meteorological assistant, three
general assistants, one chief packer, two guides, and two laborers.
6 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
The party was concentrated and went into camp at Fort Bridger,
Wyoming, June 5, the escort joining the same date. The officers on
duty with the latter were Capt. H. E. Noyes, Lieutenants C. T. Hall,
F. W. Kingsbury, and R. H. Young. . . . .
The sum of $8,000 had previously been allotted to me from the appro-
priation for “surveys for military defenses,” for the purpose of making
the reconnaissance, and proved sufficient.
The transportation, as furnished by the Quartermaster's Department,
consisted of eight wagons and sixty-six pack and saddle mules, in charge
of One pack-master and ten packers; also three six-mule teams and
wagons were turned over to me for transfer to Camp Stambaugh.
Until June 12, the tinae was occupied in equipping the party, making
final preparations for the march, and completing the preparatory work
of the several field-parties. From Colonel Flint, the commanding officer
of the post, I received the most cordial and hearty assistance, which
CODtributed not a little toward our success.
An expedition for an ascent of the Uintah Mountains, at the head of
Henry’s Fork, was sent out, but on account of the great quantity of
Snow and the limited time at their disposal, was obliged to return un-
successful. On the 6th of June the water rose so high in Black’s Fork
as to force us to abandon Our first camp and seek a drier one.
Thursday, June 12.—The expedition broke camp at 8 a. m. and took
up its line of march, moving northeasterly to the Big Muddy River, a
distance of eighteen miles. -
On the march the party was organized as follows: geologist, with
one assistant; meteorologist, with two assistants; astronomer, with one
assistant; medical officer, with a complete outfit for the analysis, in the
field, of mineral and thermal waters and gases; chief topographer, with
two parties of two each, one on the general triangulation and the other
in charge of the Odometer measurements and general description of the
line of march. The odometers (three) were carried on a wheel attached
to a pair of shafts, arranged for facility in moving over bad trails
through timber.
The train, consisting of eleven wagons with the packers as teamsters,
was in charge of Lieut. R. H. Young, acting assistant quartermaster for
the expedition. These wagons carried a four months’ supply of pro-
visions, a complete outfit for a pack-train, and ten days’ half-forage, be-
sides the usual stores and camp-equipage. All supplies and train-ma-
terial were concentrated at Fort Bridger in preference to the Wind
River posts, because of the greater certainty with which it could be
done in a limited space of time.
The triangulation was carried on with a small transit-theodolite, start-
ing from points established by me in 1871, and using the prominent
landmarks along the route as signals. The system worked well, the to-
pographers having no difficulty in keeping up with the column in any
march it could make. The odometers did not work well, three of them
on the same wheel failing to record a like number of revolutions or even
any approach to it.
The unusually high water in Black's Fork had seriously undermined
the abutments of the bridge north of the post, but fortunately nine of
the wagons crossed it with safety. The tenth broke through, but was
quickly rescued, and the hole repaired, valuable and timely assistance
being rendered by Captain Noyes and his command.
The line of march lay across the country known as Colorado Desert,
flanking the southeastern extremity of the Wind River Mountains, and
thence following up the Wind River Valley to Camp Brown. As far as
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWEST ORN WYOMING. 7
these mountains the region is almost rainless, but the extraordinary
spring rains had extended over it and fallen as Snow in the surrounding
mountains in enormous quantities. As a Consequence, the streams were
swolleu to a remarkable extent, and rendered well-nigh impassable.
At this camp there is no wood, but little grass, and the water was
excessively muddy.
Friday, June 13.−Broke camp early and commenced the passage of
the Big Muddy. This was attended with great difficulty, as the stream,
barely fordable, was running very swiftly, and the bottom was soft.
The first wagon mired in the rapid current, and the mules were rescued
with much difficulty, great skill and energy being displayed by the
men in charge. After this accident a line was led from each wagon to
the opposite bank and unanned by Captain Noyes's men, and only the
best teams hitched to them. The passage, though tedious, was effected
successfully, and a march of 13.2 miles made to Ham's Fork by 3.30 p.m.
Here the water was so high that the valley was largely overflowed and
the ford absolutely impassable. Fortunately an old abandoned bridge,
with its middle piers washed away, was found across the main channel,
and this was successfully used in making a passage. The teams were
unhitched and the wagons lightened to 1,000 pounds, and a detachment
from the escort was then stationed on the opposite side, who drew them
over the shaky bridge with great caution by means of a line. The un-
loaded material was then carried over by these men, and the teams led
Over with extreme care. There remained about one-fourth of a mile of
low bottom, of alkaline soil, which was considerably overflowed and cut
up with sloughs, over which the greatest difficulty was experienced.
Work continued until nightfall, which found six wagons with their
cargoes safely across, while the remainder were mired in the bottom,
which was strewn with material unloaded from them.
Good grass and Wood at this camp.
Saturday, June 14.—Commencing early, the passage was completed by
1 p. m., but the men and animals had worked so hard that it was not
deemed advisable to make any march, and We went into camp. I con-
sider this passage quite a feat, the success of which was very largely
due to the conception and energy of Captain Noyes and to the untiring
efforts of Mr. Curtis, Wagon-master. -
During the night some horse-thieves, who had been prowling around
us, succeeded in getting two horses belonging to the escort. A party
was sent out but failed to find them. Before leaving, however, the
services of a citizen of Granger were secured to capture them if possible.
Sunday, June 15.—Marched 18.9 miles to Green River, which was at
flood-height. Excellent road and good camp.
Monday, June 16.—Moved 3.3 miles down the river to the stage-ferry,
by means of which We effected a crossing by 1 p.m., and went into camp.
Green River flows through a narrow flat valley which is covered with
sage-brush interspersed with good meadow near the Water and on the
islands in the stream. Groves of the inevitable cotton-Wood are nume-
rous. The stream is here of considerable size at any season of the
year, but generally is fordable at a few places. Good camp.
Tuesday, June 17.—Moved 12.4 miles to the Big Sandy and commenced
crossing it at 11 a. m. This stream was at flood-height, and the ford
difficult from moving sands in deep Water. The Wagons were unloaded
and reloaded after their beds had been lined with tarpaulins and tent-
canvas, Teams of eight and ten mules were then hitched on, and they
were carefully drawn through the swift current, the water coming up
above the middle of their beds. The passage was effected by 2 p.m.,
8 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING
and we went into camp. One mule was drowned. The two stolen horses
were brought in this afternoon, having been recaptured near Black's
Pork. The country passed through is a flat plain marked by a few
buttes and benches; soil dry and sandy in many places, and the whole
covered with a thick growth of sage-brush.
Big Sandy River is a stream having its source in the Wind River
Mountains, and runs through a narrow sandy valley with but little
grass and no trees.
This camp is at a stage-station on the route from Bryan to South
Pass City and the Sweetwater mines. A little grass and no wood.
Wednesday, June 18.—Moved 17.1 miles to the second crossing of the
Big Sandy. The ford was much more difficult than that at the first
Crossing on account of holes and quicksands. The channel was very
much wider, though the water was hardly so deep. Twelve mules were
hitched to one wagon, and hauled it safely across; but as this exposed
too many mules to the danger of getting tangled in the harness and
drowned in the rapid current, a line was led across to the opposite side,
to which a ten-mule team was hitched, besides being manned by all of
the men of Captain Noyes's command. By this means the wagons were
pulled across, but not without much difficulty and very hard labor.
One wagon was overturned in the stream, but its contents, except a
few insignificant articles, were saved by prompt and skillful action.
Fortunately they were not of such a nature as to be damaged seriously
by being wet for a short time. One mule became entangled in the har-
Iness amid-stream and was drowned.
The ford was reached 12 m., and the crossing completed by 4 p.m.,
When we went into camp.
This is an eating-station on the stage-route. Water and grass; no
WOOd.
Thursday, June 19.-Marched ten miles to the Little Sandy, where the
crossing was made by 12 m., and camp was made. There is plenty of
grass here, but no wood. The country traversed in the past two days is
a hot, Sandy plain, supporting a thick growth of sage-brush and grease-
Wood, and swept by strong winds from the southwest daily after about
10 a. m., during the hot season. -
Commenced immediately laying out a secondary base-line. This work
Was finished by noon of- -
Friday, June 20, when we broke camp and marched 13.8 miles to the
Dry Sandy. Gnats were extremely troublesome at this camp, where
there is but little grass, and no wood. It is a stage-station. The Dry
Sandy is an insignificant stream which goes dry except at the stage-
station, where there is a spring. The country traversed has the same
characteristics as that passed through on the previous days.
Saturday, June 21—Broke camp at 5.30 a. m., in the midst of a driv-
ing storm of cold rain, which soon turned into snow, and marched 10.6
miles to the stage-station at Pacific Springs. Here the storm turned into
a severe gale of cold wind. Wood, grass, and water at this camp, which
is on the northern border of the hot stage-brush plain over which we
have been traveling. This vicinity is the “South Pass” of the early
geographers, about which there has been so much fictitious writing and
picture-making. As there are no mountains about it, and as the old
road hardly crosses a hill of any magnitude, the misnomer is evident.
The road, however, crosses at this point the divide between the Atlantic
and the Pacific flowing waters, and this gave origin to the name.
Captain Noyes, Lieutenant Hall, and a small escort went ahead to
Camp Stambaugh. -
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 9
At this point I received a communication from the commanding officer
of Camp Stambaugh, informing me of the presence of hostile Indians in
his neighborhood. Rumors had already reached us of their depreda-
tions, and I had already commenced precautionary measures by keeping
my guides in the morning and evening on the lookout for signs.
Sunday, June 22.-The night was very cold, the minimum thermome-
ter registering 219 F. Broke camp at 1 p. m. and marched four to six
miles to the Sweetwater River, crossing over a bridge that is used in
high-water seasons. The stream is generally fordable. Evidences of a
recent and considerable fall in the Water were abundant. The river
here runs through a narrow, flat-bottomed valley, with sharp rugged
sides of metamorphic rock. The soil is rich in garnets of small size,
with slight indications of gold. The road traversed thus far from Fort
Bridger has been excellent. i.
Monday, June 23.—Broke camp at 6.30 a. m., and marched sixteen
miles to Camp Stambaugh.
The route passes through the mining-towns of South Pass City and
Atlantic City, and traverses the greater portion of the Sweetwater gold-
mining region across the slopes of the southeastern extremity of the
Wind River Mountains. These mines are in a belt of metamorphic
schistose rocks that occupies the axial line of the mountains. They are
very favorably located for working, and good roads are within easy
reach, although water is so scarce that placer-mining does not prosper
as it certainly otherwise would. On Strawberry Creek, near Camp
Stambaugh, it was found remunerative to haul the dirt several miles to
water. The gold occurs singularly free in veins of a bluish, impure
Quartz, generally rather thin. For some reason, or reasons, this indus-
try is in a languishing condition. This was partly caused by a great
silver excitement in Utah, which drew away a large portion of the
miners to that ever-fascinating new country that they do not happen to
be occupying. There is every indication here of gold in paying quan-
tities, but a stage has been reached where capital is needed for further
development.
Camp Stambaugh is situated on the southeastern extremity of the
Wind River range, where it has run out to an elevation of about 8,000
feet above the level of the sea, and is exactly on the divide. Thus ele-
wated in position, it lies between and commands the two lines of approach
and escape over which the marauding parties of Sioux, Arapahoes, and
Cheyennes, from about Fort Laramie and Fetterman, make their almost
regular annual descents upon the Wind River and Sweetwater settle-
ments and stage-stations, lying respectively to the north and south of it.
These two lines are connected by difficult trails over the high foot-hills
of the range, above and to the northwest of Camp Stambaugh and the
exposed mining settlement, so that either can be chosen as a line of escape
after an outrage.
The obvious mode of getting at these Indians, after their presence
has been made known in the usual manner by some depredations, is to
move the troops with the utmost celerity to some point near the junc-
tion or convergence of these lines, which probably would not be more
than one hundred miles to the east or north of east from Camp Stam-
baugh, and there throw out an efficient line of signal-pickets. By this
means, if they did not reach their objective point in advance of the
escaping Indians, they would not be unlikely to stumble over them on
the way.
Indians travel over a country guiding themselves by the prominent or
noticeable landmarks, and When these are not sufficient, they build piles
1() RECONN AISSAN C E OF NORTHWESTERN W YOMING.
of Stones on a hill or in a doubtful pass. As a consequence, their trails
of general travel must almost of necessity converge or diverge at or
near Some of these points, and however much a party may scatter, it
will come together again in the vicinity of some such place. These are
really strategic points in Indian warfare, because the most difficult part
of the matter is to get at the Indian, and he can best be reached through
a thorough knowledge of his modes of travel.
About Camp Stambaugh and the Sweetwater mines the grazing is
generally good, but the country is nearly barren of timber, which, how-
ever, is abundant higher up in the mountains. The climate is very
severe, and strong winds are almost constantly prevalent.
Until June 28 the time was occupied in shoeing animals, repairs, &c.,
and as many as possible of the mines were examined by Professor Com-
stock and myself. Both of the box-chronometers, which had been car-
Tied by a mounted man in a basket attached to a sling, had been so erratic
in their rates that they were left behind here, and the remainder of our
Work was done with pocket chronometers. Three wagons and teams
which we had brought from Fort Bridger were turned in. -
We were received at this post with the utmost courtesy and attention,
and the commanding officer, Lieutenant-Colonel Brackett, cheerfully
accorded us every assistance in his power.
Friday, June 27.-Starting at 6 a. m., we marched 8.2 miles to
Twin Creek. The road passed through Miner's Delight, the most thriv-
ing of the mining-towns in this locality, was very hilly, and in some
places quite boggy from the late-melting snows. The long slopes of the
foot-hills of the unountains are here covered with a splendid growth of
grass, and there is a scattering growth of timber, pine, spruce, and aspen.
It is a region admirably adapted for grazing.
Saturday, June 28.-Broke camp and marched 12.2 miles to Murphy’s
ranche, on the Little Popo-Agie River, which latter had very recently
fallen so as to just permit us to ford it. There is here a small but Well-
sheltered valley of rich soil, where vegetables and hardy cereals are
successfully cultivated.
Sunday, June 29.-At 6 a. m. we broke camp and marched 15.5 miles
to the North Fork of the Big Popo-Agie River, crossing the valley of
the principal stream on the route. This latter is of considerable size,
has a rich soil, lies well for irrigation, and is well watered. The climate
is quite mild. It is the old site of Camp Brown, and is now occupied by
a small settlement of whites, among them several women.”
The valley of the North Fork is quite similar, although the land does
not lie so well for irrigation. The grazing-land everywhere around is
very fine.
Monday, June 30.-Marched eleven miles to Camp Brown. The road
from the crossing to the Little Popo-Agie follows a monoclinal Valley
parallel to the mountains, and is excellent. The country is rolling, with
a good soil, supporting a fine growth of grass, but no trees. Camp
Brown is situated on the right bank of Little Wind River, just above
the mouth of its north fork. The strealm has just emerged through a
short caſion from the long rolling outlines of the mountains, and shows
a broad, flat, and well-watered valley of rich soil. A large area of land
in this valley can be irrigated with but little expense. The climate is
very mild and, so far as observation has yet gone, but little snow falls
during winter. The mild and dry climate is easily accounted for from
* Shortly afterward hostile Indians made a descent upon this settlement and butch-
ered two of these women. They also attacked Murphy's ranche, but were driven off.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 11
its situation under the lee of a very high range of mountains, which
catches the prevailing storms on its southern face and deflects them to
the south, whence they are drawn down the Sweetwater Valley as
through a funnel, making a fierce eddy and the corresponding severe
climate over South Pass City and Camp Stambaugh.
On the river, two miles below the post, there is a large, hot sulphur
spring in a small lake, which has remarkable properties for bathing. An
analysis of the water, by Dr. Heizmann, discovered chloride of lime as
one of the constituents. The temperature is usually 110° F. Near by
there is a running oil-spring, and also large beds of gypsum and alabas-
ter. There is also a cold sulphur spring a few miles south West from
the post.
Near by is the agency of the Eastern bands of the Shoshonee Indians.
Their chief, Washakee, is thoroughly well known on the plains, and is a
man of considerable ability and foresight. He expressed a strong de-
sire to see a railroad come through his country as a result of this expe-
dition, and took great interest in it.
Table of distances.
Miles
Fort Bridger to Camp Stambaugh - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - --. - - - - - - - - - - 135
Bryan, on the Union Pacific Railroad, to Camp Stambaugh. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 99.5
Bryan to South Pass City --------------------------------------------------- 3
Bryan to Camp Brown ------------------------------------------------------ 146
Bryan is the point from which supplies are shipped to the Wir.d River
posts.
Until July 10 we were engaged in turning in the wagons and wagon-
train material, rigging up the pack-train, and in measuring out a base-
line and carefully locating the principal landmarks with a large transit-
theodolite. An expedition for the ascent of the Wind River Mountains
Went out. On the 5th and returned on the 10th. Ten Shoshone Indians
were enlisted as scouts, and Narkok, a petty chief, was employed as
guide. These Indians stipulated that their families should be permitted
to accompany them. To this I had no objection, as it insured their good
behavior, and they could easily travel as fast as we would be likely to.
We received the utmost courtesy and attention from the officers at the
post, and the most cordial assistance from the commanding officer, Cap-
tain Torrey, and Lieutenant Guthrie, post quartermaster. On the 10th
of July We broke camp early and attempted to make a march, but many,
in fact most, of the train-mules were entirely new to packing, and created
such havoc, that We were quite content to move one half of a mile across the
river and go into camp again. It took all day to accomplish even this
much, and there was great amusement and excitement over the despe-
rate struggles of the frightened and frenzied mules. Mules require a
season of training before packs should be put on them for a march,
but this we had no time for, and were obliged to break them in while
on the march. This involved the breaking of nearly every breakable
article in our outfit, and many a sigh was mingled with the laughter
over the antics of some wild mule as one after another of the fragile
luxuries of camp-life disappeared from usefulness.
Frnday, July 11.—The morning was spent in repairing the damages of
yesterday’s attempt at a march. Made a start at 2.30 p.m. and march-
ed 8.4 miles to Sage Creek. This small stream has a bottom of soft
mud and runs between almost vertical banks of alluvium. Our camp
was at the nearest point to Camp Brown where it is fordable. There is
12 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING,
no ford below it. Poor camp. There is a little grass, no wood, and
poor water.
Saturday, July 12.-Marched 10.7 miles to Wind River. Passed over
a high plateau covered with sage-brush, from which there is a consider-
able descent to the valley of the river. This was swollen to a great
height and was not considered fordable. We were prepared to make a
raft-ferry over it, but I thought it advisable while looking for a suitable
Spot to also see if a ford could be possibly found.
Sitnáay, July 13.−This morning the Indians set at work with the ut-
most spirit in search of a ford. They stripped off all clothing except
the soldier's blouse, with which they had been furnished, and, mounting
bare-back, drove their ponies into the stream at every possible point,
Where they soon became involved in many dangerous as well as ludicrous
situations. Three or four hours of this sort of work was followed by
the announcement that they had found a possible ford. The line wound
around and up and down among the islands and shoals in the channel
in the most tortuous manner, and displayed an intuitive knowledge of
the effects of flowing water that was remarkable. It was really a skill-
ful feat. Great care had to be observed in this crossing, as the line fre-
Quently ran along narrow shoals amidstream, where the rapid current
was more than swimming-deep a few steps on either side. Six hours
were occupied in effecting it, when we went into camp on the opposite
side.
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A fine specimen of gold quartz (float) was found near this Camp,
washed down probably from near the summit of the Wind River range.
Crossing the river afforded a rare spectacle; for a while, the long, tor-
tuous ford was completely lined with the motley crowd of soldiers, citi-
zens, pack-mules, and gaudily-dressed Indians, with their Squaws,
children, and numerous loose ponies. Among them was a colt which,
on account of the deep water, was strapped legs up, to the pack carried
by its mother. The presence of these Indians, who formed a small






























ERRATA,
The following paragraph should follow immediately after Figure 1, page 12:
In the vicinity of this crossing, Wind River flows through a broad riband of meadow,
of varying width, with numerous groves of cottonwood, which grows to quite a large
size. The approach by the right is over very high terraces of soft earth. These pla-
teaux are so high that their cultivation by irrigation is probably out of the question.
The soil is rich, and is covered with sage-brush and the characteristic bunch-grass,
which latter is of quite superior size. Wild licorice occurs in the valley. On the left
bank these terraced deposits are mostly worn away, leaving many buttes and benches,
among them Crow Heart Butte, whose height and characteristic features render it a
very noted landmark in the valley,
RECONNAISS ANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 13
village, gave us a rare opportunity of studying their habits and mode of
life. They proved to be extremely vigilant, and their conduct Was unex-
ceptionable.
Monday, July 14.—Marched 14.8 miles up Dry Creek, on which we
made our camp. The country rapidly grows coarse, dry, barren, and
very dusty. No water, except in the creek, where it is poor; Wood and
grass are scarce.
Tuesday, July 15.-A topographical party which had been sent to a
station in the Wind River Mountains overtook camp at 10 a. m., When
we took up the march and moved 10.3 miles along the same Creek, going
into camp at a spot where there was plenty of Wood, tolerable grass, and
poor water. Dry Creek, from its name, probably does not always carry
water through the season.
Wednesday, July 16.-Broke camp 9 a. m., and marched 18.5 miles
through the foot-hills of the Owl Creek Mountains. The line of march
lay through a country extremely desolate and quite mountainous in its
character, the rocks being frequently tilted vertically, with some very
large dikes of quartzite. Some quite extensive beds of gypsum and ala-
baster occur, with deposits of iron-ore, (brown hematite.) These give to
one cañon on the route a highly variegated appearance, which led us to
call it “Painted-Rock Cañon.” Along the route, Water, wood, and grass
are very scarce, and only one stream (the Little Muddy) was crossed.
It was almost dry thus early in the season. At camp the water was
from springs that were nearly dry, and was quite alkaline; and the
grass was thin and poor. There is no Wood. In this region the rocks
are tilted and flexed in quite a remarkable manner, apparently by forces
from two directions, making a considerable angle With each other. I
saw indications of coal, but may be mistaken.
Thursday, July 17.—Broke camp at 9.30 a. m., and marched across the
Owl Creek Mountains, camping on the Middle Fork of Owl Creek.
Distance 10.5 miles, Over an easy trail. Wagons from Camp Brown
have been taken across at this point and as far north as the Grey Bull
River.
The mountain-slopes are generally rounded, and covered with a fine
growth of grass; timber, aspen, pine, Spruce, and hemlock, occurs in
extensive groves, and there are many Springs and Sluall streams on the
northern Water-shed.
At 5.30 a. m. I took a small topographical party, With an escort and
some Indian Scouts, and started to make the ascent of the peak which
forms the climax of the range, and reached the Summit by 9 a. m.
I have named this peak Phlox Mountain, from the extensive fields of
white phlox that its slopes display. From this point it was seen that we
were entering the Big Horn Valley close under the eastern flank of an
enormous range of mountains whose existence, although suspected, was
unknown. Subsequent observations showed it to be the same as that
bordering Yellowstone Lake on the east, and connected with it by a belt
of massive peaks fully sixty miles in width. To the north and east lay
the Big Horn Valley, visible through nearly its whole extent, with its
streams running transversely from the unknown range to our left into
the Big Horn River northward. As far as the eye could reach could be
seen a grand and endless series of faces of broken strata of the sedi-
mentary rocks looking up to and dipping away from the Owl Creek
range. Strangely enough no strata could be seen dipping from the vastly
larger range on our left. Toward the southeast the Owl Creek range
evidently ran out in the vicinity of their crossing of the Big Horn River;
to the northeast were the Big Horn Mountains, of which little could be
14 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
2’
seen except Cloud Peak and a few peaks in its vicinity, distant one
hundred miles. Subsequent and frequent examinations of this range
from a distance of eighty miles, and from many high points, show that,
with the exception of the cluster of culminating points just mentioned,
the range must be a low one, with the general line of the summit much
below the timber-line. North of Cloud Peak this summit appears re-
markably even and free from peaks, from which I infer that it is a high,
rugged plateau. Very little water drains from their western slopes, and
the Country appears quite desolate and barren. To the southeast lay
the “bad lands” that are inclosed within the angle of the “big bend "
of Wind River, coming quite up to the foot of the Owl Creek range.
The quantity of Water that drains from the south slopes of this range
is quite small, and from the north slopes but little is supplied to Owl
Creek, which is in reality a drain from the mountains to the westward;
to the South, across the valley, the Wind River Mountains stand out in
in assive grandeur, with snow-clad peaks along their whole length.
From the Indians I learned that the snow disappears during the sum-
mer from all except in the vicinity of Union Peak. Along their flank,
and sweeping up to their summit from the valley below with wonderful
Symmetry and regularity, lay the huge layers of Silurian, Carboniferous,
Triassic, Jurassic, Cretaceous, and Tertiary rocks, forming immense
ridges, and forcing one to the simile of the petrified waves of a mighty
geological Ocean.
I noticed in this vicinity that along the summit, in the neighborhood
Of Phlox Mountain, the metamorphic rocks are similar and are arranged
similarly to those at the summit of the Wind River range. Good camp.
Friday, July 18.—Left camp at 6 a. m., with a topographical party,
accompanied by Professor Comstock and Lieutenant Blunt, to make the
ascent of what appeared to be the highest peak in the range West of
us, distant about fourteen miles. The approach appeared to be one of
great difficulty, and when I asked the Indians if they could guide me to
a point somewhere near it, they said they knew of no way to get there
at all. I had examined the country for an approach the day before
from Phlox Mountain, and could see none except by following along the
South slopes of the Owl Creek range. This varied considerably from a
direct line, but seemed to be free from caſions. The question was a
Serious one, as the peak was so far away, and evidently of such a diffi-
cult character, that a mistake would be attended with a considerable
loss of time. At 12 m., after a rapid march of six hours, I ascended one
of the peaks in the Owl Creek range to reconnoiter for a further
approach, and was fortunate in picking out one by which we could
probably reach the foot of the peak by night-fall. In a short time We
reached Owl Creek, just above its grand caſion along the anticlinal
axis of the mountains, and at 6 p.m., thinking ourselves near enough
for the assault to-morrow, we made our bivouac, after a pretty hard
day’s work.
Saturday, July 19.-Taking an early start, we commenced examining
the peak for a feasible point of attack, and marched up Owl Creek until
9 a.m. before finding one. We then secured our animals, and at 9.30
a. m. the ascent was Commenced.
This peak, to which I have given the name of the “Washakee
Needles,” is a terrible crag. Its appearance from the valley of Owl
Creek, above our camp, is simply frightful, sheer precipices of Whitish
lamellar granite rising up from the valley fully 2,500 feet high. From
this side it is unassailable, and we spent the best part of the morning in
looking for a way across to the other side, expecting to find there a slope
RECONNAISSANCE ()F NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 15
of some kind. After five hours of severe and extremely dangerous climb-
ing, three of the party—two of the topographers, very fortunately, and
to my astonishment, with the barometer and theodolite—and Inyself
found ourselves at the limit of progress toward the summit. The peak
is formed by several huge plates of granite, whose summit-lines are serrat-
ed with teeth at which the edges are generally vertical. The summits are
so narrow that in places one can actually sit astride, with legs dangling
over great precipices on either side. We were upon the serrated Summit of
the plate adjacent to the highest one, whose summit loomed with pre-
cipitous sides fully 200 feet above us. Between was an immense gulf
separating the plates. Not only was further progress impossible, but
we could see now that the summit was absolutely inaccessible except
with the aid of appliances for climbing, and probably not even with
them. We took the angle and estimated the distance to the summit;
finished our instrumental work upon a ledge a little below our highest
point, for there was not room on top to set up an instrument and use it,
and were very glad, indeed, to commence the descent. The situation
upon our perch—no one dared stand up on it—was anything but pleas-
ant, and we left it only with the burning regret that it had not been the
summit. Messrs. Putnam and Bond, who carried the instruments up,
certainly deserved success. The approximate altitude of the peak is
12,250 feet. From our dangerous perch the view, spread out to the north
and west, was grand and even terrible. As far as could be seen lay a
jagged mass of peaks of dark-brown volcanic ejectamenta, which showed
black in the shadows of the falling sun, giving to the whole that appear-
ance of black shadow and mystery which always produces such strong
impressions on the mind.
Later observations lead me to the belief that we were looking upon
the headwaters of the Snake and, possibly, the Yellowstone Rivers. We
were upon the highest peak in sight in this range.
By 5 p. m. We had completed the descent, and found the rest of the
º one of whom, Lieutenant Blunt, had narrowly escaped with his
ife. -
We marched back over our trail until after dark, and then made our
Weary bivouac for the night. - -
Owl Creek, above its cañon, runs through a splendid park, abounding
in game—mountain sheep, bear, elk, deer, and buffalo.
Sunday, July 20.—Started back a. m. for camp over a route selected
from the mountain yesterday, and reached it 1.30 p. m.
Monday, July 21,–Marched north-northwest eighteen miles to Cotton-
wood Creek. The line of march lay through the grassy and well-
watered foot-hills of the mountains. Scrub-cedar grows upon the hills,
and cotton-Wood along the streams, both somewhat sparsely. This
country is a favorite range for buffalo. The grass is very fine. At
camp we found a very cold spring, temperature 410 F. Wood is scarce,
and there is an outcrop of coal near by. I have renamed this stream
Mee-yer-o Creek, giving it an Indian name. The early trappers, follow-
ing the Indian practice of referring to streams by means of the natural
features about them, have inflicted the country with numberless Cotton.
Wood, Willow, Sage, &c., Creeks, which is sure to lead to much confusion
hereafter. Froum what I could gather, I am of the opinion that the
Shoshonees do not have distinct names for the streams and mountains,
but refer them, where they are not in sight, to prominent landmarks or
characteristic natural features in their immediate vicinity; thus, the
Stinking Water River Would be spoken of as “the stink, water in such a
direction and near such a landmark;” the South Fork of the Stinking
16 RECONN AISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
Water, as “the water with a peculiar-shaped rock close by it;” Beaver
Creek, as “the little water near such a landmark, where there are many
beavers;” Wind River, as “the big water by such a landmark, where the
Wind blows very hard,” &c. I do not think that they have names for
the mountain-ranges at all. As there is a remarkable sameness among
the natural features along the streams in the plateaus of the Rocky
Mountains, it results that a large number of streams are named alike.
On this account I have changed a few names.
Tuesday, July 22.-Marched 13.6 miles to Beaver Creek, and went into
Camp 12.30 p.m., where we found good grass, Wood, and water. The
country is still high-rolling, with fine grass all over it, and few trees.
Extensive patches of the wild gooseberry grow along this stream. I
have renamed it Gooseberry Creek, feeling little apprehension that the
name will be duplicated.
Wednesday, July 23,-I find that by making marches in the forenoon
everybody becomes too tired to work to advantage in the afternoon, and
have therefore decided to make them in the afternoon, starting about
noon. Were we simply marching through the country it would be dif.
ferent, but in cases of this kind the marching should be made subsidiary
to the work of examining and describing the country. As our marches
are short, it is not too fatiguing to travel in the heat of the day, and we
are thus enabled to examine the country about camp during the fore-
noon, obviously to greater advantage. Another advantage is that the
animals have plenty of time to graze before starting on the march,
which they do not have when an early start is made, and it is very im-
portant that pack-animals should eat their fill before starting on a
Inarch.
Some Shoshonee Indians came in from Washakee's camp near the
Stinking Water River. They report immense herds of buffalo lower down
in the valley, and that the village is baving a grand hunt. We have
seen a number of straggling buffalo in the past few days, and several
bave been killed.
Marched 10.7 miles to Grey Bull River. This is a stream of consid-
erable size, running through a narrow valley, which two or three miles
above widens out very much and encroaches into the mountains. An
expedition of miners, called the “Big Horn Expedition,” came into this
country from the South in 1870, and brought one wagon as far as this
stream. Here they disbanded and the most of them returned to the set-
tlements via Camp Brown, while a few made their way into Montana by
the way of Clark’s Fork and Rosebud.
Thursday, July 24–Marched seventeen miles to a small tributary of
the Stinking Water, which I have named Mee-tee-tsee Creek—a Sho-
shonee name. Grass and water are a little Scarce. About three miles
ahead of us, at the foot of a huge spur from the mountains, the Sho-
shonee village is encamped. The divide between the Grey Bull and the
Stinking Water is quite high, and the descent into the valley of the lat-
ter rather abrupt.
We have had all day a good view of the Big Horn Mountains, and I
am satisfied that, with the exception of Cloud Peak and a few peaks
about it, the range is comparatively a low one. The valley of the Big
Horn appears very desolate, except along the valleys of the streams,
whicil are frigged, as usual, with cotton-Woods and narrow, grassy bot.
tomS.
Friday, July 25.-This morning Washakee, with a large party of his
braves, in full dress, made me a state call. He was much interested in
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 1.
7
the expedition, but did not seem so well pleased at having so many of
his best young men go with us as Soldiers.
At 2 p. m. We moved camp 4.4 miles, to a point near the Shoshonee
village. Five more of them were enlisted by Captain Noyes, and one
joined us as a volunteer, raising the number of Indians with our party to
seventeen. The captain also swapped off a poor unfortunate fellow who
had developed a case of hopeless sore eyes for a healthy one. The tribe is,
terribly afflicted with syphilitic affections. The village was perched well
up on the mountain-side, on a small stream which here opens out into a
diminutive valley, just above a long, gloomy caſion. Its existence would
never be suspected from below. From the lookouts the view of their
sentinels swept all possible approaches thoroughly. Unobserved ap-
proach was impossible, and a better place for defense could not well be
selected. Constant incursions into this Valley of large War-parties of
Sioux gave wisdom to their precautions.
To our surprise, the mountain-spur above us is composed almost, if
not entirely, of volcanic matter, which, in some places, contains fossil
trees of considerable size. Its measured altitude is 8,607 feet, which is
3,400 above the valley of the Stinking Water. Grass is thin and wood
SC3I’C62.
Saturday, July 26.-Marched 18.8 miles to the North Fork of the Stink-
ing Water River, crossing the South Fork, or Ish-a-Woo-a River. I have
given this stream the Indian name of a peculiar-shaped rock, by means
of which they distinguish it. It is a remarkable, finger-shaped col-
umn of volcanic rock, standing alone in the valley, about three miles
above our crossing. The valley of the Stinking Water has here an ele-
vation of 5,273 feet above the sea, and is the lowest point touched by
the expedition. Just below the junction of the two forks, and about a
mile below our crossing, the river, by a deep and rugged but short
caſion, cuts off the point of a sharp and high anticlinal ridge of yellow
limestone which stands vertical along the summit, leaving a high, bold.
peak on the right bank, which the Indians use as a landmark. They
refer to it as the “mountain with many cedars.” I have, therefore,
called it Cedar Mountain. High up on its southern face is a remarkable:
hole, which the Indians called my attention to, and said it was very
deep. I could, with my glass, see that it was a hole, and intended to
visit it after reaching camp, but was prevented from doing so by more
urgent business. About twenty miles northeast from this point is a
small, isolated cluster, which is probably the Heart Mountain of the
early trappers and guides.
To-day We began meeting with huge spurs running out from the
mountains at about right angles; also evidences of tremendous volcanic
action. The drift in the valley is composed of the débris of volcanic
rock. We passed the remains of a large depositing-Sulphur spring.
The water oozed from a cylindrical mound of soft mud, a little har-
dened on its rim and held together by the roots of a rank growth of
water-grasses. It lies close to the Ish-a-Woo-a River, on the south side
near where our trail crosses, and probably at one time contributed
largely to the odorific title of the main river. A few miles lower down,
below the caſion, a mass of sulphur springs occur which still give good
cause for the river's name. On the North Fork we found the extinct
remains of a mass of depositing springs; the whole hill-side was covered
with the large sedimentary mounds of soft black and brown earths, hav-
ing a good deal of transparent gypsum in crystals and Small pieces
scattered through them. -
On the mountains there is a tolerably heavy growth of coniferous
H. Ex. 285 2
18 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
trees, and along the streams the everlasting cottonwood flourishes. The
valley of the North Fork for a considerable distance above the cañon
has very little grass except a very tall, coarse kind, that grows in
patches near the Water, and is not sufficiently nutritious to induce the
animals to eat it. The soil has a peculiar greasy, yellowish look, and
only supports a stinted growth of grease-wood and Sage-brush. The
Stinking Water is a river of considerable size, and, prooably, is rarely
fordable below the junction of its two main forks. We had considera-
ble difficulty in finding a ford across the Ish-a-Woo-a, even this late in
the season, and probably neither of the forks are fordable much
earlier.
Above the cañon the waters of both streams are perfectly pure and
have no smell. Fine trout are abundant and game has been very plen-
tiful. The tracks indicated that the elk and mountain-sheep have lately
moved higher up into the mountains.
Sunday, July 27.-Marched 14.7 miles up the North Fork of the Stink-
ing Water, and camped at the mouth of its grand caſion. We entered
the mountains yesterday. Along the trail the soil is rather poor and the
grass is thin. Wood is abundant. The latter part of the trail, for about
six or eight miles, is quite rough, and crosses a small but remarkable
bed of tertiary deposits of colored marls and clays.
The mountains are very rugged. The rocks are mainly limestone,
sandstone, and a coarse volcanic conglomerate. The sedimentary rocks
soon disappear, and the peaks are composed of, apparently, horizontal
layers of volcanic ejectamenta. The prevailing color is a dark-reddish
brown, which gives the mountains their marked black haze in shadow
and bronze tint in the light. The conglomerate Weathers into the most
fantastic pinnacles, needles, and grotesque forms. When interstratified
with the rich brown sandstones it Weathers into characteristic rounded
.columns, displaying tier upon tier, reaching above the timber-line into
the clouds, of sculptured balconies supported by long processions of pilas-
ters and clustered columns, while, clambering up from below, forests
of spruce and pine, growing on seemingly impossible slopes, cover the
mountain-side to the upper limit of forest-growth. Compared With any
mountain scenery that I have seen, the effect is quite peculiar, and even
magnificent. The massive grandeur of the huge peaks is suffused
with a rare beauty of form and color. At the mouth of the caſion, upon
either side, stand two lofty and slender peaks of similar form, which I
have named “The Sentinels.”
Monday, July 28.—Marched up the stream 9.1 miles. The trail enters
the caſion, and is very difficult, leading along steep and seemingly im-
possible slopes above the river, with frequent precipices below and
above. To avoid a huge precipice which reached quite into the river,
unfordable through the cañon, it made a detour to the right over the
most difficult hill met with on the trip. It did not seem possible for ani-
mals to climb it, and the mishaps to the pack-train were quite numer-
OUIS.
The grotesque forms of the conglomerate previously alluded to afforded
great amusement to the party. It is really something remarkable.
After the hill came a short, broad bottom of Sage-brush, and then the
huge precipice-walls of the caſion closed in upon the river, leaving only
a narrow bank, first on one side and then the other, densely covered With
cottonwoods, brush-willows, and Scattering pines. It was necessary to
ford the river repeatedly—no easy matter—and the dense undergrowth
of brush made progress anything but pleasant. Earlier in the Season
this stream is in all probability unfordable, and progress along our trail
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 19.
therefore impossible. At last we came to a patch of grassy bottom,
just large enough for the party to camp upon, and a halt was cheerfully
called.
The caſion-walls are streaked with dikes and veins. To-day and thence-
forward it was found necessary to send a pioneer party from the escort
ahead of the main body to clear and make the trail. Captain Noyes
generally took charge of this party, and to his untiring efforts the expe-
dition owes much of its successful progress.
During the day the Indians have been following the fresh trail of two
white men with two led horses, who have ascended the valley just ahead
of us. After reaching camp one was sent ahead to reconnoiter, and
about three miles farther on he found them, just as they had predicted;
two white men with two spare horses, which were packed. They were
prospectors from Clark’s Fork, and were greatly relieved when they
found we were not Sioux, as they had supposed upon first sight of our
‘Indian scout.
Tuesday, July 29.—Laid in camp. The pack-train was so badly used
up that it was necessary to give the animals rest, and replace the lost
shoes and tighten the loose ones.
Wednesday, July 30.—Broke camp and marched 14.5 miles up the
stream. The trail was extremely difficult and beset with danger, both
upon land and in the water. In one place it was so dangerous that even
the Indians dismounted and led their ponies over it. Those who under-
stand how Indians stick to their ponies in the most unheard of places
rather than dismount, will appreciate the difficulties of a situation that
induced them to travel on foot. The stream was forded seven times.
At one of these crossings, which was quite difficult, a pack-mule lost
his footing and floated, pack and all, some distance down stream.
Through the extraordinary exertions of Mr. Curtis, our chief packer,
this animal was saved, though at the expense of its cargo and aparejo.
Mr. Curtis came very near drowning, and broke one of the bones of his
right hand—a serious accident.
On this march we emerged from the cañon and came into the park
that is usually found near the head of mountain-streams. At Camp
there was splendid grass and plenty of Wood. Along the stream is a
thick growth of cottonwood, pines, cedar, and Willow. The mountain-
slopes are densely timbered.
We are passing through what appears to be one ridge of maximum
elevation in the mountains. They seem to be composed entirely of ma-
terial thrown from or poured out of Volcanoes, and yet no distinct cra-
ters, or anything that looks like them, can be seen. Estimating from the
timber-line, many of these peaks are over 12,000 feet high, and some
carry at this season vast fields of snow on their northern slopes. From
the precipitous character of the weathering about their Summits, many
of them will probably be found inaccessible.
Thursday, July 31,–The Indians say that I can make one “big march”
to the divide, or two easy ones, and get across it. I choose the latter,
and we start at 12.30 p.m., marching eleven miles up the river.
The trail leads through a perfectly lovely country of open pine forests,
carpeted with long soft grass and the mountain-huckleberry. This berry
is quite small and red, and has a very delicate flavor. We camped in
a spot that was absolutely perfect, having ice-cold Water, a broad meadow
of thick grass, with dark forests of spruce and pine close around, car-
peted with a long grass that makes our camp-bed feel like down. Elk,
deer, and trout are abundant. A mule deer was killed.
I find to-day that we have crossed the highest ridge of the mountains.
20 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING,
and that the pass at the head of the Stinking Water is probably through
a secondary ridge, and not the main divide. -
At this point it became necessary to ascend a neighboring peak to do
Some important topographical Work, and it was decided to lay over one
day for the purpose. In this connection the question of provisions
asserted its importance. It appeared that by making all possible haste
to Yellowstone Lake, and sending the pack-train from there to Fort
Ellis for supplies, the party left behind would be out of provisions before
it could get back. As one day more or less in a case of that kind would
not make much difference, it was decided to lie over, do the necessary
work, and meet the consequences by shortening the allowance of pro-
visions, should it become necessary. An examination showed that the
soldiers had eaten more than their allowance of flour; that my party had
consumed cousiderably more than its allowance of everything, and that
the Indians had devoured their rations long ago and were subsisting on
the country. They frankly confessed that the supplies thus obtained
were rather scanty, and that they were getting hungry. Just here may
be explained the Secret of the treunendous marches made by War-parties
of Indians. Having the power of going several days without food, they
have no need of a train to incumber their progress.
Friday, August 1–Started at 5.30 a. m. With a party consisting of
Dr. Parry and Messrs. Bond and Putnam, with the theodolite and ba-
rometer, to make the ascent of the peak before mentioned, and reached
the summit after three hours of pretty stiff and some dangerous climb-
ing. The point proved a very good one for examining the eastern slope
of the divide between the Big Eſorn and Yellowstone drainage. We
were in the midst of a mass of wild and rugged peaks, seemingly thrown
together in the direst confusion. To the West, and not far distant, was
a line of peaks which evidently formed the “divide,” and through a
depression in it, to the northwest, we could see mountains, which were
evidently upon the farther side of the Yellowstone Valley. The day
was spent in work at the Summit, and we reached camp at 7 p.m. very
tired and hungry. This peak we have named “Sailor Mountain.”
Saturday, August 2.-Broke camp at 8.30 a. m. and marched 14.4
miles, across the divide and into the Yellowstone basin, about one mile
from the pass. The trail was excellent, except the short spurt of ascen
into the pass, which was severe. This slope is on a friable volcanic
sandstone, carrying but little soil, and smooth and bare in many places.
The horse in the odometer-cart broke down completely at this spot,
and the cart had to be left behind.
After the Indian guides, I was the first to reach the summit of the
pass, and, before I knew it, had given vent to a screeching yell, which
was taken up with a wild echo by the Indians; for there, seemingly at
their feet, and several miles nearer than I had expected, was spread out
a scene of exceeding beauty—Yellowstone Lake—embosomed in its sur-
rounding plateau, and a mass of green forest extending as far as we
could see. Slowly, and in single file, the remainder of the party came
toiling and panting up, leading their animals, and, spite of lack of
breath, each gave the same involuntary yell as the wonder-land burst
upon their view. Perhaps there was something that moved us in the
broad and startling contrast between the dreary deserts, the sage-brush
plains, the awful and majestic mountains, and that broad expanse of
fresh, hazy, and sensuous beauty that looked up so invitingly at us from
below; but there was also the proud feeling that we had crossed the “im-
passable” mountains.
There was no time to be lost, however, and I ascended a neighboring
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 21
peak in company with the theodolite-and-barometer observers, to do the
important work that was now presented to us. Prom this point it could
be seen that Yellowstone Lake lay in a broad and high rolling plateau,
densely covered with trees; that from it, to the west and south, there
are no mountains except Mount Sheridan and the Tetons, and that the
country probably slopes off gradually in those directions into the basin
of Snake River. We found fresh tracks of mountain sheep exceedingly
numerous, but there was so much noise that they took the alarm in time
to get out of sight. Two bears came down to witness our passage, but
the hostile demonstrations of our Nimrods scared them away.
We reached the camp of the main party at Sundown, when it ap-
peared that Dr. Parry and the two white guides were missing.
I have named these mountains “The Sierra Shoshonee,” because the
right to name them is clearly minè, as I have been the first to cross
them and mark out their geographical position and extent. Professor
Hayden has called what he has seen of them and their western border
sometimes the “Snowy Mountains " and sometimes the “Yellowstone
Mountains,” but he has also applied the latter name to a range lying
south of Yellowstone Lake, that has no existence.*
Sunday, August 3.—Owing to a miserable contretemps, this day was
lost. The trail to the lake was not found by 2 p. m., so I had the
train unpacked, and went into camp without making any move. This
camp was in a small opening in the forest, near a very large, gushing spring,
whose temperature was 38° F. There are also, close by, some bubbling
gas-springs from pools of water at 38° F., that have regular one-minute
intervals between times of maximum action. The gas is sulphurous acid.
Grass was very scarce and poor about camp. Measures were taken
in the morning to discover our whereabouts to the supposed lost mem-
bers of the party, and the odometer-cart was brought in. At 2.30 p.m.
I took four packers and went back to the old trail, which we rapidly
followed down to the prairie on Pelican Creek that was open to the
lake. Returned to camp at 6.30 p.m., where I found a note from Cap-
tain Noyes, informing me that he had made his way to the lake, and
that the three missing persons were there, and not likely to suffer, as
they had killed an elk.
Monday, August 4.—Broke camp at 9 a. m., and marched about
eighteen miles, to the outlet of the Yellowstone Lake. The last of the
three odometers gave out to-day. About six miles from camp we came
upon a lake of warm water, with a multitude of diminutive hot sulphur
and gas springs on its eastern shore, and some large springs breaking
out from beneath the water near this shore. It is the recipient of quite
a stream of pure cold Water from the mountains, and has an outlet into
Yellowstone Lake. On the south side of the lake is a small mud-puff,
Steaming and funning away, depositing Various forms of sulphur. Two
kinds of rock seem to be forming in its immediate vicinity ; one a con-
glomerate from the surface-material. A careful study of the way in
which rocks are decomposed and others formed from the resulting
material by the hot steam and gases from the Springs of this basin
ought to throw light upon the dark subject of metamorphism.
On Pelican Creek, in the timber about six miles farther on, there is
another system of depositing-springs, supplying a large mass of red
earths and recently-formed rocks. An analysis showed the existence
in those deposits of chromium, a rare mineral.
The trail down the mountain side was through a dense forest, very
* See Report of United States Geological Survey, 1871, and map of Yellowstone Lake,
p. 101, and also same report for 1872, -
22 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
much obstructed with fallen timber. Along Pelican Creek is a strip of
rolling prairie, with marsh close by the stream, while near its junction
With the lake the greater portion of its valley is marsh. This prairie is
the home of great numbers of field mice and moles, which have bur-
rowed up the ground to such an extent that it is traveled over with diffi-
culty. The same is true of a great deal of the open country in the
Yellowstone basin. Along the north shore of the lake the timber is
interspersed with many grassy Openings.
Tuesday, August 5.—I sent the pack-train to Fort Ellis for supplies.
It was accompanied by Captain Noyes and the escort. Lieutenant
Hall and a few men remained with us. There is very little, if any,
danger from hostile Indians in the park at present. Small parties of
Bannacks, Mountain Crows or Snakes, (“Sheep-eaters,”) might try to
steal something, but they are arrant cowards. f
As far as my observation Went, good Camping-grounds for parties of
ordinary size can be found almost anywhere in the basin. -
At this camp a complete series of astronomical and hourly meteoro-
logical observations was instituted and continued during our stay.
Two p. m. found the beach sprinkled with explorers, spread out at
full length, with strained eyes close to the sand, waiting for a crystal to
“ pop up.” The sand is full of clear, sharp but diminutive crystals of
different minerals, mostly silica. These crystals are perfectly shaped,
and quite beautiful. They come from a porphyritic-trachyte porphyritic
with glassy feldspar and silica, that occurs among the igneous rocks of
this region. Much of the quartz is amethystine. The north shore of
the lake has a long, shallow, sloping beach of Soft sand, Very convenient
for bathing. The temperature of the water varies between 500 F. in
the morning and 650 F. in the evening. It is influenced considerably
by the heat of the sun, but at any time is cold enough to break down
the constitution of the strongest bather if persistently applied. I have
ventured to name this place Crystal Beach for the benefit of future
poets and sentimentalists.
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We find, as others before, us, that the trout of the lake are perfectly
splendid in size and condition, but are full of parasitic intestinal worms,
which leave the intestines and enter the flesh.




























































RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 23
The forest here is made up almost exclusively of pine, (P. contorta.).
Toward the lake their branches are stunted and bent upward toward
the trunk, while on the north side (from the lake) they grow out long
and free. The contrast is very noticeable, showing that the prevailing
storms come from the southſ (southwest ?). This is to be expected as the
basin is all open toward the south and west, and is completely hemmed
in by high mountains on all other sides.
Thursday, August 7.-While breaking camp this morning a party of
horsemen were discovered upon the other side of the river. They proved
to be a party of officers from Fort Ellis.
After placing in a cache a lot of provisions and material, for which we
did not have transportation, we started at 12 m. and marched fifteen
miles to Yellowstone Falls. The river near the lake is not fordable, and
generally between the lake and the falls is unfordable. Just below the
mud volcano there is a ford that can be used late in the season. Our
Indians stopped here, where they crossed the river to await our return
upon the other side.
Two of my topographers started down the river upon a rude raft
which they had constructed, expecting to get down to the falls before
the main party. They were to sketch the stream and make soundings.
Unfortunately about six miles below the lake they were swamped in
some rapids, whose existence they had not discovered in time, and were
obliged to abandon their raft, from which they escaped with much diffi-
culty. They did not reach camp that night.
The trail is very good, about eight miles of it next to the falls being
through open Country. Some very fine springs occur opposite and a little
below the mud volcano. Along the streams there is considerable marsh,
and also along the river just above the rapids.
Friday, August 8.—Decided to remain at this camp two days. We
are following the trail of Captain Noyes, which here runs into the direst
confusion, branching off here and there, but each part always returning
upon itself. They have evidently lost the trail and have been hunting
for it. We bad no guides who were conversant with the country about
the lake, and I had trusted to our ability to pilot ourselves by the map
of Captains Barlow and Heap, United States Engineers, who were
here in 1871. I sent the guides out to find a continuation of the trail,
and afterward visited the upper falls and examined the rocks in the
caſion and about the falls with much care. With Lieutenant Blunt I
went below the fall. This required some pretty nasty climbing along
the Water's edge about the immediate approach, perhaps not so much
from the actual danger as from the moral effect of the terrible torrent
just below, which seemed to clamor and roar at the prospect of a mis-
step by the human intruders upon a smooth, slimy shelf of rock, scarcely
wider than the foot, which had to be passed at one place. Ten or
fifteen feet from the mass of falling water, just on its flank, and a little
to the rear, farther progress became impossible, for here the loose débris
which occurs at intervals along the torrent’s edge gives out, and one
stands against the face of the vertical wall of the fall gazing into the
cauldron of unknown depth, which the impinging Water has worn into
the igneous rock, softened and disintegrated by the heated gases and
vapors from God’s awful laboratory beneath. By the barometer the
height of this fall is 150.2 feet. Its beauty is really remarkable. The
water contributes beauty of form and color, and the rocks grandeur, as
from their vertical jointage they weather and are worn into vertical
walls, sheer and straight, of tremendous height. Just before taking the
leap there is a sharp bend in the channel, which narrows considerably
24 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
and wears out below, and to the right a huge semicircular precipice.
The rocks are a porphyritic trachyte, and a loose conglomerate contain-
ing quite a large variety of igneous rocks. This conglomerate will repay
future study.
We then went to the lower fall, but became separated on the way.
He descended to the bottom of the cañon below, while my progress be-
came obstructed at the verge of a precipice about 80 feet high, spring-
ing up from the Seething Waters close by the flank of the fall. The
rocks, like those about the upper fails, weather vertically, and, from
greater decomposition, into pinnacles and isolated slopes of débris lying
thin on the softened and disintegrated surface.
I did not enjoy the sight of this fall at all, as my attention was con-
stantly diverted to the steep and narrow gulch in the rock, at whose
foot I stood, fearing that Lieutenant Blunt, whom I expected down every
Imoment, might, by accident, start a loose stone from the débris, a mis-
hap which would have inevitably knocked me into the waters below.
Besides, there was just above me a huge drift of snow, and I began to
feel certain that the time had come for it to be a small avalanche. I
scrambled up the gulch with considerable difficulty, and soon found my-
self in camp with clothing thoroughly Saturated from the spray about
the falls.
During the early morning I had visited a mass of hot springs and
gas-vents on the sides of a hill near camp. It seemed to me that I saw
here evidences of the disintegration of the rocks by the hot waters,
gases, and vapors from the springs.
I have noticed that whenever there is a mass of gaseous springs, either
in action or extinct, if they come from a hill-side, the whole mass of
rocks adjacent is disintegrated and of yellowish and white color.
Some of the party, while walking down the river along the edge of
the grand cañon, stumbled across what is probably Captain Noyes's trail.
Progress in this direction had been considered impossible. It after-
Ward appeared that he had pushed ahead, making his own trail, after
having lost half of one day in looking for file old one, which had become
indistinct.
Saturday, August 9.-I sent back to the cache for extra supplies, and
taking a small party, including Lieutenant Blunt, Mr. Hitt, and Mr.
Putnam, returned to the lower fall, where we descended to the bottom
of the grand caſion. We could not approach nearer than about 100 feet
from the fall. The water in the river is quite high for this season, and
probably at a low stage a nearer approach can be made; but not much
nearer, for soon the rocks at the water's edge slope smooth and almost
vertical into the torrent, and no débris can remain along the edge of
such a tremendous current; besides, there is such a dense cloud of spray
that nothing could be seen even if a nearer approach were made.
I have noticed no hot springs along the river between the falls,
although there is abundant evidence of their former action ; but imme-
diately below the lower, or great falls, they are quite numerous, Oozing
and spouting from holes in the solid rock. Here I saw three that threw
up slender columns (about half an inch in diameter) of very hot water,
two or three feet high, like a fountain. The flow was continuous. A
similar one across the river was just below the water's edge, and is only
seen as the waves recede. Down the river little columns and clouds of
steam gave evidence of the existence of numerous others. I infer that
there are many of these hot gas and water springs, active and extinct,
along the channel of the river through the grand cañon. Other explor-
ers report their existence wherever they have reached the bottom of it.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 25
Of those that we could examine, the greater number issued from clean
holes in the hard, smooth, (Water Worn.) rock. Probably the material
deposited from the water gets washed off, while the gases, stain the
neighboring rocks. One spouting spring, however, had built for itself
quite a symmetrical bee-hive-shaped mound of silica. An idea of the
shape can be gained from the sketch below, (Fig. 3.)
*
23
*
º
•
-- -~.- -
<!
~
-*
-*
:~-
*
VERT CAL SECTION
PLAN
Fig. 3. Spouting Silica Spring, Yellowstone Falls.
By improvising a horizontal sight we set up the barometer at about
the level of the bottom of the fall, after which we ascended to its crest.
We were on the right bank, where there is a narrow ridge, very steep,
with loose dirt on it, which leads down to the crest of the fall. We set
up the barometer here, with the feet of the tripod in the water, at the
only spot where the Water's edge can be approached at all. The sharp
ledge of rock here overhangs the precipice, and may fall off at some
future day.
. From this point one gets the fullest idea of the grandeur of the fall.
The depth of the cut seems immense, and the effect is heightened by
the tremendous vertical wall on the right, which has a sheer height of
fully 500 feet. On the face of this mighty gash in the rocks the column
of falling Water dwindles and appears small, and this, perhaps, is the
reason the effect of the fall is not so impressive from below, or even from
the bottom of the cañon ; the volume of water appears small in com-
parison with the great height and mass that encompass it. The fall is
so great that the whole volume of water seems to break into drops and
spray before it reaches the bottom, and the chasm for one-third of the
height from the bottom is filled with a mass of white vapor which very
much lessens the apparent height to the eye looking from below. But
looking down from the crest, one gets the full effect of the great height.
The chasm is so deep that the trees along the bank have but a slight
effect in the beauty of the surroundings. The height of the great fall











26 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
from our measurements (barometrical) is 328.7 feet. This differs from
the results obtained by previous parties, but from the satisfactory man-
ner in which our altitude work checked itself, I think it can be relied
upon as a reasonable approximation. After examining the rocks from
the top of the caſion above the upper fall to the bottom of that below
the lower fall, with a view of arriving at an explanation of their origin
and the attendant phenomena, I find that at the upper fall the rock is
mostly a hard porphyritic trachyte, and Professor Comstock saw two or
three dikes of trap. Higher up, and outcropping between the falls, a
layer of coarse, soft sandstone, (conglomerate,) apparently horizontal, and
distinctly stratified, occurs. It carries a good deal of obsidian in coarse
grains, and its débris covers a good deal of the country on both sides of
the river. Below this, and to the bottom of the upper caſion, occur an
amygdaloidal conglomerate; a very coarse conglomerate, (rather breccia,)
containing reddish-brown sandstone and obsidian, with Well-marked
cleavage; a coarse, friable stone, made up of grains of spherulitic obsi-
dian ; and the hard porphyritictrachyte observed above the fall. Between
the falls I observed no marked change in the character of the rocks. A
yellowish color appears over the whole just above the lower fall, but it
is only on the outside, and is evidently a stain. About and in the Grand
Cañon the rocks are nearly all tinged a brilliant yellow, and along the
walls are Weathered largely into pinnacles with their summits tinged
reddish brown. Everywhere that I broke the rocks the fracture showed
clearly that the yellow color was only a tinge, and revealed their igneous
character, and I tested some of the most marked specimens. I found
the same hard porphyritic trachyte and granular obsidian rock that
occurs above. Close by the hot springs in the caſion the trachyte carries
the strongest tinge of yellow, (sometimes whitish,) and is sometimes con-
verted into a cellular rock, the imbedded crystals having evidently been
destroyed.
I therefore suggest, in explanation of this phenomenon, that during a
former period, when Yellowstone Iſake covered a much more extensive
area than now, the line now occupied by the river below the lake,
especially from the falls downward through the Grand Cañon, became
the line of escape for the hot gases, vapors, and chemical Waters from
the volcanic depths below ; that their action softened and disintegrated
the rocks until the waters of the lake could wear them away and form
the present river-channel. There is evidently a sudden break in the
quantity of this action at the falls, with its maximum effect below ; Con-
sequently the Grand Cañon commences in a very marked manner. This
view is further supported by the fact before alluded to, that generally
where these hot springs come out of the side of a hill, that side is excess-
ively eroded and the rocks stained yellow. In the deep tranverse
gulches that lead into the Grand Caſion from the east, there is an ex-
cessive quantity of thermal and gaseous spring action. In many of
these spots I have noticed what appeared to be solid rock, with the
greatest similarity of outward contour to the undoubted igneous rocks
close by, into which the finger could be thrust with ease, although the
interior would be found very hot. A further examination than I had
time to make would prove whether or not these are igneous rocks disin
tegrated by heat and chemical action, as I am much inclined to believe.
As the jointage is vertical, or nearly so, the walls of the caſion weather
vertically. w
Notwithstanding the remarkably extensive evidences of Volcanic
action, we have seen nothing yet that could be satisfactorily identified
as an extinct Crater.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 27
Deer-flies, (a kind of horse-fly,) mosquitoes, and gnats are very numer-
ous below the lake, and future travelers should be well supplied with
netting, both for themselves and animals. They are not troublesome at
night, owing to the cold. In other mountain localities they disappear
with the extremely cold nights of July, but here, in the vicinity of the
hot springs, they find plenty of Warm rocks to roost upon when the
nights are cold, so they can live on for an indefinite lateness of season.
Sunday, August 10,–Started on the march at 10 a. m., with the pack-
Imules very heavily loaded. The trail, for a considerable distance, fol-
lows close to the cañon through a dense wood, and is quite difficult.
Marched twelve miles to Orange Creek. Much of the cargo had to be
thrown off on the way, to be sent back for on the following day. The
chief difficulty was in getting through the thick timber, which had not
been sufficiently cleared away.
Monday, August 11.—Remained in camp. Provisions are getting low;
sent, back to the cache for what was left there. One of our cooks was
lost in the forest, and remained out over night. I felt much worried,
because it is a serious thing for a man to get lost in these forests as
there are no landmarks visible from which he can determine his position.
Tuesday, August 12.-Sent parties out to the highest neighboring
points to fire signals, and also sent out a guide to make a circuit around
camp and find, if possible, the trail of the lost cook. Rain had been
falling all night, and was still falling. Our efforts were successful, and
the poor fellow came in about 10 a. m. in a pitiable plight, having had
neither fire nor food. Rain was falling so hard that it was not consid-
ered advisable to move camp. It cleared up, however, by 1 p.m., when,
with Lieutenant Hall, I started, with a few pack-mules and such of the
cargo as was not required for immediate use, to carry it forward on the
trail as far as possible. Our means of transportation were so limited
that it took us two days to make one march. We moved fourteen miles
to the East Fork divide, and returned to camp by sundown, leaving the
cargo under proper guard.
Hot Springs are very numerous along this trail, and the whole atmos-
phere is saturated with their vapors to that extent that we were some-
what nauseated by them. The trail follows for a while an old Indian
trail, which, becoming too difficult, Captain Noyes had evidently aban-
doned it, and tried to get around by the head of the sharp ravines. It
led in a very tortuous manner through heavy forests and over very steep
hills. Along the bank of the Grand Cañon, by bridging a few of these
ravines and deep gulches, a very easy road could be made.
Wednesday, August 13.—Broke camp at 9 a. m., and marched twenty-
eight miles, directly over the highest point of the East Fork divide, to
the East Fork of the Yellowstone River, one mile from the bridge over
the latter stream. Through the ranch man at the bridge We have news
of Captain Noyes and the train. Rinowing that we would be short of
provisions before he could get back to us, he had made a very rapid
march into Fort Ellis and would probably get back to us in five or six
days.
While on the high summit of the East Fork divide we were greeted
with quite a severe mountain-storm. During the march along the trail
among the numerous hot springs We Were again nauseated as on the
day before.
On Orange Creek, near our last camp, occurs a notable mass of springs
that have so cut down and discolored the rocks that I named the locality
Orange Rock Springs. Orange Creek is a wild mountain-stream, run-
ning at this point through a picturesque cañon whose walls are fully
28 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
200 feet high. From the bed and banks of the stream, and at the foot
Of the cañon walls, countless springs are issuing. The air is saturated
With gases; the noise deafening, and the smell sickening. The spot
has most of the physical characteristics of our best authenticated con-
ceptions of hell; and one of our guides, who discovered it, did not tarry,
for he felt certain that “the devil was not far off.” The stream dashes
Over a series of rapids and cascades. The rocks are disintegrated and
discolored with the greatest variety of hues—white, yellow, red, various
shades of green, brown, and drab. Along the summit of the caſion
walls lie huge blocks ready to drop off, while the foot of the slope is
strewn with masses of fragments of the trachytic rock. On the north-
east side, close by the water, is an exceedingly large jet of steam, escap-
ing under such pressure from a narrow fissure that the noise is deafen-
ing. The steam smells of a sulphur gas, and is excessively hot. Close
around it are three large hot springs with steam issuing from them, one
of which is turbid White and quiet, while the other two are boiling and
geyser-like. Very little water escapes from them by the surface into
the stream. Directly across the stream, a little to the west, is a large
boiling fountain spring, with an outlet whose channel is lined with silica.
Besides, there are multitudes of small gas-jets, depositing sulphur in a
variety of forms.
Where the trail crosses a small tributary of Broad Creek is another
active mass of Springs. Among them, one elliptical in shape and about
20 by 30 feet in opposite diameters, is quiet, has a whitish scum, and
emits a sulphur gas. It has a slight overflow. Another of dark drab
mud is 15 by 31 feet across, and is constantly in violent ebullition, throw-
ing the Inud 2 and 3 feet high. Steam and gas escape from it.
I decided to wait in this vicinity until the return of the train from
Fort Ellis.
Thursday, August 14.—Sent back for the cargo left on the trail yester-
day. -
Across the stream, to the north from our camp, is a high ridge of gran-
ite, whose direction is not at first sight apparent. It runs across the Creek
close by camp, where it is quite low, and the surface débris can be seen
for some distance to the south. A little east from us it shows two Well-
marked crags close by the south bank of the creek, which latter makes
through it a sharp caſion, commencing about two miles from its mouth.
About 200 yards farther up it cuts through a layer of sandstone, carry-
ing numerous fossil plants, which rest upon a bed of volcanic conglom-
erate. This latter crops out extensively along the stream above, and
its débris is scattered over the rounded hills to the south. It is cer-
tainly peculiar. We have seen it in varied conditions and structure.
All of the way across, from one side of the mountains to the other, at
the Washakee Needles, and, in fact, everywhere that we have come in
contact with these mountains, it can be recognized in the distance by
its columnar and fantastic weathering, and somber brown, Sometimes
almost black, hue. It is made up of a smoothly-rounded débris of a
great variety of volcanic rocks, in sizes varying from a pebble to enor-
mous bowlders. I have seen these latter in position that were from 10
to 15 feet in diameter, and others that clearly came from it very much
larger. Along this stream it carries large bowlders of granite and
basalt. Being so near to the granite ridge just mentioned, I was doubtful
about the source of the granite bowlders until I found a huge one in the
bed of the stream with some of the matrix still clinging to it, and
shortly afterward numbers of them stuck along a vertical wall of the
conglomerate. It is probable that the blocks of granite strewn over
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RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 29
the country south from camp are from this source, because they appear
to be rounded from wear rather than from concretionary structure,
while the granite of the ridge is lamellar, and gneissic in structure. A
notable feature of the conglomerate is, that it is frequently stained and
its constituents sometimes thoroughly impregnated with a green mine-
ral (silicate of iron,) which might easily be mistaken for carbonate of
COpper.
As far up East Fork as can be seen from these granite knobs the
valley is quite open, fairly timbered with Spruce, pine, and aspen, and
is clothed with excellent grass on the rolling country between the caſions
where the stream cuts through some minor ridges. On these there are
many ponds of stagnant water. To the north and northeast the mount-
ains are very high and rugged.
Friday, August 15.—I started at 7 a. m. with a small party, carrying
rations and bedding on our saddles, for the Great Hot Springs on Gar-
diner's River, distant twenty miles down the Yellowstone. We made
our nooning near a lovely fall on the east fork of Gardiner's River, after
traversing a beautiful country of high, rolling hills, well watered, with
excellent grass everywhere, and wood scattered here and there in groves
and masses. At the fall the rock is basalt, stained to a dull yellowish
hue. The weathering about it and in the caſion below is quite similar
to that about the Upper Falls of the Yellowstone.
A beautiful effect is produced about half-way down the face of the
fall, where a horizontal dish-like ledge juts out from the wall. Some of
the falling water rushes down and into the disb of the ledge, so that its
impetus throws it up again at several points in low, heavy, fountain-like
jets, while another portion jumps clear over and beyond the ledge, in a
thin transparent sheet whose convex surface looks exceedingly like a
glass cover preserving the little fountains beneath from defilement.
We reached the springs at 3 p. m., and spent the afternoon in looking
over this very interesting and beautiful phenomenon. A settlement has
sprung up here for the purpose of accommodating sight-seers and bath-
ers. I have not much confidence in the bathing properties of the Water.
Saturday, August 16.-Completed an examination of the Springs and
the surrounding country, and started back to camp, which we reached at
8.30 p.m. As the Great Hot Springs have been described and thoroughly
photographed, I will only offer an explanation of their structure, as my
views materially differ from any that I have yet seen advanced. The
maximum temperature of the water given (1649 F.) was obtained by
Dr. Heizmann and myself by penetrating through the clouds of steam
and over the hot and dangerous crust to the main fissure, from which
the water was escaping with considerable violence. Looking back at
this performance it seems foolhardy; for no one can tell, in Such a mass
of steam, whether the crust under their feet about the edge of the fis-
sure is firm, or thin and overhanging, a common feature. These Springs
(see sketch, Fig. 4) are the source of a small stream which empties into
a sink near Gardiner's River, a short distance above where the latter
joins the Yellowstone. The water comes out at temperatures varying
from 920 F. to 1649 F.; the latter at the fissure, where the maximum
Quantity of water is escaping now, and is strongly impregnated with
certain minerals, principally calcite, which latter it deposits profusely
upon exposure in thin layers to the atmosphere. The Springs originally
came out at the top of the hill above them, which I should judge to be
fully 1,000 feet above those in action now.
The effect of the rapid deposition from the water is quite remarkable,
there being formed by this agency level-topped hills, sometimes 200 feet
30 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
high in successive terraces, one below the other down the slope of the
hill—probably along a line of rupture in the rocks—their faces showing
Fig 5.
\
ce. Spa «ting &ring
Ideal section of spring and its deposits.
beautifully corrugated surfaces which imitate very closely the Meandrina
coral, and display, while the water is flowing over in thin sheets, deli-
cate and coarse tints of carmine, pink, rose, yellow, and brown.
The proof that the progress of these formations is from the top down-
ward, and not from the bottom upward, as explained by Professor
Hayden,* is conclusive ; at the top, the Springs are all dead, and the
deposits are decayed and almost hidden beneath vegetable loam from the
dense forrest that has overgrown them, while all of the active springs are at
or near the bottom. He saw the dead remains at the top, but after ob-
serving closely their characteristics as hot-spring deposits, he falls into
the strange error of saying: “But in what manner was it formed ? I
believe that the limestone was precipitated in the bottom of a lake,
which was filled with hot springs, much as the calcareous matter is laid
down in the bottom of the ocean at the present time. * * * * *
The deposit was evidently laid down on a nearly level surface and the
strata are horizontal.”
After the water ceases flowing the surface bleaches snow-white or
bluish-gray. -
The process commences with the water running from one hole or ſis-
sure, (Fig. 5,) or several, under sufficient pressure to rise as a column to
a height varying with the pressure, and from thence flowing off down
the hill, with its surface covered with concentric ripples, caused by pul-
sations in the current; along the scolloped lines of these ripples lie the
minimums of velocity in the flow, and the maximums of deposition of
sediment; consequently, little wave-lines of ridges commence forming
very soon, and once started, another check to the velocity is introduced
whose value is continuously increasing. This, in time, makes shallow
pools, which are soon filled up with sediment, and in time the upper
* Report United States Geological Survey, 1871, p. 68; ibid., 72.


RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 31
ones merge into one large one around and below the orifice, on a level
with it and bordered by a scolloped rim, over which the water flows in a
continuous sheet, (Fig. 5.) The water flowing over this rim and down-
Ward, builds up, as the rim rises and advances outward, a steep slope
with the maze of corrugations on its surface that result from its rapid
throbbing flow. Any serious obstruction on this slope will bring about
the formation of a seconday pool on the face of it, a feature of common
OCCurrence. This process builds up a large hill, with the large shallow
pools on top of it, but everywhere on its slopes and top-surface the slight-
est Cause tends to produce the general results just described in miniature.
Hence, on top we find the large pools whose surfaces are literally meshed
With the Scolloped rims before described, and the slopes are studded with
little shallow basins with scolloped rims and corrugated sides, the hill
itself in miniature.
It was along these rims that Dr. Heizmann and I made our way to
the Very edge of the largest orifice and took the temperature of the
Water in it. The spring thus builds for itself a characteristic mound of
great beauty, both of form and color, which ultimately becomes its tomb.
—
º: - Fig 6.
cl. ſſälsäcle
Ö. Spring deposit
| c. Sºrin?
For, in due course of time, the level surface about the orifice becomes
raised so high that the water can no longer flow out and over it, where-
upon the deposition gradually chokes it up with thin, cellular curved
layers of calcite.
Now, if the cause of this action were continuous and of constant
power, the spring would break out again in a favorable spot, and build
up another mound of about the same height, and the process would
be repeated so long as there remained any possible means of escape for
the confined Waters in that locality. But, although the cause is thus
far continuous, the power is actually decreasing, as is evidenced by the
extensive distribution of the dead relics of former volcanoes and the
multitude of extinct and waning thermal Springs; consequently, where
the spring breaks out afresh, it must, in this case, be at some point
lower down, as the line of rupture in the crust of Surface-rock evidently
runs downward toward Gardiner's River, and a new mound Will be
built up of less height than the last one. Sometimes small vents have
broken out below the level of maximum action, producing a fountain-
spring, throwing a jet of water nearly as high as the level of the princi-


32 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
pal spring. The deposition from this would produce a cylindrical col-
umn, with the top narrower and rounded. (Fig. 7.)
$
g
i
SS . . . illºl
… ºliº (º)
‘....&ººlſ. : 'º',', | | | | Š
3. I - w ºkº **** **. —Sºº-ºº ºl '!' 'i ſi :'' . ºriºſph- ... - - - - - SFS-
• " }}| % , S. $,
*
N)
º & § §
So, º S
Šs Š
s S ºf
* ~ S
e. Nº tº
3 S ^y
S. $
§ 3 ; Ś
S \S $ J
§ 3 ; Ś
Co S Sº S
& SS
So S. S. §
| : $; $ $
63 ^y SS
SS & 3 &
& ‘S & SS
The “Liberty Cap” described by Hayden, and a similar column near
it, are illustrations of this, and there are other examples higher up. If,
instead of such an orifice, there should be a narrow fissure, a sharp,
rounded ridge Would result, of which there are numerous examples.
Local circumstances may concentrate the force in certain small orifices or
fissures, and thus keep up the action in a feeble manner at a level where
the principal action is extinct. Thus there is now feeble action on three or
four levels above the principal one, which at one place has produced
an illustration of all the structural peculiarities on a diminutive scale.
Sometimes the water has found a Vent lower down, before the orifices
above have closed over, thus leaving the craters bare, displaying numer-
ous small caves. :
I infer that the hill of maximum action now has about reached matu-
rity, from the fact that the Water from the principal orifice is only
thrown a little above the surface... We may, therefore, expect springs
to break out lower down the hill, if indeed they have not already done
SO.



RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 33
Among the peculiarities of deposition are delicately-beautiful hol-
low spheres, about one-eighth of an inch in diameter, sometimes open
on the top, with a lid. They are so thin and fragile as to break at the
slightest touch. I put forward with some hesitation a curious explana-
tion of their origin. From the soft sediment at the bottom of the pools
about the main orifice, small bubbles of carbonic-acid gas are constantly
but quite sluggishly arising. Now, the deposition is here so rapid that
any bubble that lingers a certain length of time on the bottom—as
many of them can be seen doing at any time—receives a coat of it over
its film of surface sufficient to keep it there, thus forming a fossil bubble.
Lying there on the bottom, it is soon surrounded and covered up with
the ordinary material of deposition. This is the origin of the small
spherical cells which are so marked a feature of the rocks deposited
from these springs. Certain forms of coral are imitated, notably the
Madrepores and Meandrina ; stalactitie forms are common, and the soft
deposit in the pools seems to harden into an irregular interlaced mass
of strings and fibers.
Sunday, August 17.-I went out to-day with the miners at the bridge
to a place called by them “Specimen Mountain,” a noted locality for
amethysts, forms of chalcedony, opal, and silicified wood. We were
fortunate in finding some notably fine specimens of amethysts and yel-
low crystals of quartz. The containing-rock is the igneous conglomer-
ate, before mentioned. In it, at this locality, are a good many silicified
trees, the hollows of which are frequently lined, in short sections, with
varieties of quartz in very beautiful and perfectly-preserved crystal
forms; rock-crystal, yellow, blue, amethyst, and opal, and many kinds
of chalcedony. The amethysts seem to predominate. In the process
of silicification these trees generally become divided into short sections
by cleavage planes at right angles to their length. It is these sections
that are occasionally hollow and lined with crystals, the adjacent sec-
tions being plain, unpretentious petrified wood. Much of the latter is
perfectly black, as though it had been carbonized by heat before the fos-
silizing material came in.
Loaded with specimens and very tired, I reached camp a little after
dark. Camp had been this day moved three miles across the river,
to meet the train from Fort Ellis. Mr. John Bari Onett has built here a
very substantial bridge across the Yellowstone River for the use of
miners visiting the head at East Fork. It is only suitable now for pack-
animals.
Monday, August 18.-Pack-train in charge of Lieutenant Young ar-
rived at 3 p.m. from Fort Ellis, with twenty days' supplies for the
escort and twenty days' supplies for my Working-party.
Tuesday, August 19.-Moved camp seventeen miles, across the Ele-
phant's-back Mountains to Yellowstone Falls. The trail proved very
bad ; many animals fell down hill, and there was considerable bad bog.
The train was pretty badly used up, and two mules were lost; all this,
too, after leaving half the cargo at the old camp to be sent back for.
The odometer is again in use, having been repaired at Fort Ellis.
Camped on Cascade Creek. Along the trail the country is pretty open
north of the mountains, with excellent grass, plenty of water, and
groves of trees. Across the divide the forest is quite thick, with small
openings of meadow, There are three trails across the divide, and we
unfortunately took the worst one. I made the ascent of Mount Wash
burne with a topographical party.
Wednesday, August 20.—Sent back to the old camp for the cargo left
behind yesterday. The lost mules were found. Lieutenant Kingsbury
H. EX. 285—3
34 RECONN AISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
With the escort arrived at 2 p. m. from Fort Ellis; they had staid
behind to get their horses shod. Captain Noyes had been taken sick
and could not join us. He proposes to meet us at Camp Brown.
Thursday, August 21.—We remained in camp, shoeing the animals and
resting them. Rain fell during the whole day. Sent to the cache for the
remainder of the cargo left there.
JFriday, August 22.-In camp : rained all day.
Saturday, August 23.−Moved camp thirteen miles to the Hot Springs,
on Warm Spring Creek, where it emerges from the timbered hills. The
Indians were in camp on this stream waiting for us. Our party, with
the exception of Captain Noyes, was now altogether again. The coun-
try along this creek, for about eight miles from Yellowstone River, is an
open, rolling prairie, extensively burrowed by moles and field-mice.
About the springs the water of the creek and its tributaries is either
hot or sour, frequently both. We found good water, after a little search,
in a marsh above the springs, on the South Fork.
Sunday, August 24.—Marched 13.3 miles across the divide between the
Yellowstone and the Madison, to the Lower Geyser Basin, on Fire-Eſole
River ; met two parties of sight-seers from Montana. The trail passes
by a small lake, very near the summit, and down a sharp but short hill,
on the West side of the divide, and soon strikes the Waters of the Mad-
ison. The size of this stream has been exaggerated ; it is from two to
three feet deep. A depth of 10 feet, as reported, would overflow its
banks and the whole valley. Along this stream there is a good deal of
imarsh, meadow and many groves of timber. Good Water can be easily
found in the Geyser Basin by hunting for it,
Moguday, August 25.-Marched ten miles to the Upper Geyser Basin.
The trail from the Lower to the Upper Geyser Basins is very bad from
marsh ; with a little trouble it could be carried along the hillside through
the timber aid Inade very good. Fire-Hole River is the principal East
Fork of the Madison. Its Waters in the Geyser region are generally
quite warm, sometimes liot; just above Old Faithful, in the Upper
IBasin, it becomes cool and potable again.
The boiling water from the silica springs was used for cooking and
found very convenient. The structure of the geysers or silica springs
is quite similar to that of the calcite springs on Gardner's River,
except that the silica deposits slowly, while the calcite deposits rapidly,
making a corresponding difference in the size and shape of the mounds
formed. There is a good deal of silica (geyserite) about the springs in
a soft, pasty condition from solution in the presence of alkaline Salts,
which ought to throw light upon the formation of Chalcedony. Other
explorers have devoted much of their time and attention to the descrip-
tion and explanation of these geysers and springs, to which, in my
hasty visit, I have seen nothing to add. Further elucidation must be
the result of careful observation and study, over greater periods of time
than are at the disposal of exploring parties; besides, the question of
getting back to Camp Brown is becoming rather serious; the pack-train
is badly used up, from traveling excessively laden, over bad trails, (the
cargoes average over 250 pounds,) and there is considerable doubt
whether the rations will hold out while we are making way through the
“impassable” country at the head of Wind River, described by our
forerunnerS.
The immediate difficulty, however, is, that the Indians have failed to
find the trail back to Yellowstone Lake. They seem to be nonplussed
and are depending upon me, and this even ng informed me that We Were
lost. The explanation of this is, that they are “plains Indians,” and are
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 35
wholly unaccustomed to travel among forests like these, where all land-
marks disappear. It will, therefore, be necessary to make a trail—no
pleasant prospect in such a Country, where one has so many people and
animals dragging along after, to multiply the consequences of getting
caught out in the dense forest without any camping-place. An indi-
vidual or an animal might easily stray a short distance from the trail
and get lost, if there was any halting or confusion, and to get lost in
this dense forest, where the hills are so rounded that nothing can be
seen from their tops, would be a terribly serious matter.
Tuesday, August 26.-Taking a picked party of Indians, the guide
Smith, and the escort as pioneers to blaze and clear the trail, I started
out early in the morning, with the intention of making a trail to Yellow-
stone Lake, if the old one could not be found. The train was to wait
until 10 o'clock before starting. After a short and fruitless search I took
out a compass, and giving the Indians the direction, told them to go that
way all the time, and pick out the best way. This they did with great
skill, but as our route lay directly across the water-drainage, the hills
were frequent, and the trail pretty rough.
An Indian seems to have an instinct which enables him to pick out
the best country to travel over, and to avoid natural obstacles.
Four p. m. found the advance party at the lake, at the spot we had set
out for, but it was perfectly certain that the train would have to stop on
the way. Fortunately there were suitable camping-places along the
trail. With empty stomachs, and saddle-blanket lodgings, we made a
large fire, and spent a remarkably long night in vain efforts at sleep.
Wednesday, August 27. –The minimum thermometer last night regis-
tered 130 F., the greatest cold we have yet experienced. At S a. m. an
orderly arrived with a message from Lieutenant Hall, commanding the
escort, informing me that the mules of the train were so badly used up
that it could not move to-day. Much of the cargo had been thrown
off along the trail, and one loaded mule was lost. Later in the morning
Lieutenant Hall himself arrived and further informed me of the state of
affairs. Theodometer-cart had worn out completely and was abandoned.
The packers had gone back on the trail to gather up the cargo and find
the lost mule. Sending all back to camp except the Indians, my orderly,
and the guide, I remained to look up the trail ahead.
. By noon, having gone without food since morning of the day before,
the pangs of hunger overcame a violent prejudice and I ate some fish
from the lake worms and all. The Indians have been eating these
wormy fish all along and I doubt whether there is anything injurious
about them. I might have obtained something to eat from them, but
there is a feeling in the average white man's breast which prevents him
from asking such a favor from an Indian. It is very unreasonable, but
it is there. The Indian, on the other hand, asks favors from the White
man, feeling within himself that all that the White man has belongs to him,
and he is therefore only getting back his own. He never returns thanks
for such favors.
The principal difficulty on the trail yesterday was that it was not suf.
ficiently cleared to allow the pack-mules to get through without getting
frequently stuck between trees—a mishap in which a mule will waste
strength enough to carry him and his pack several miles.
I have often been struck with the philosophical Way that a packer
proceeds from the grass that a mule eats to the Work that it will do.
In his eyes so much grass represents so much mule-work, and no grass
represents pretty nearly no work, while it is true that very little Work
36 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
can be expected of a train of pack-mules that have not eaten pretty
nearly their fill of grass or something else before starting.
Thursday, August 28.—The train came in during the morning and
went into camp at the Hot Springs on the lake three miles ahead. The
trail was good, but somewhat obstructed with timber along the shore
of the lake. There is a first-rate trail along the west side of the lake,
over which I would have sent the greater part of the expedition had
I known of its existence, thus avoiding the Fire-Eſole Basin, and our
trials in getting away from it. It would have been perfectly easy to
get a small party from that basin to the lake.
Along the West shore of the lake are numerous small streams with.
meadows and marsh.
The lost mule, with a cargo of flour, beans, and coffee, was not found
yesterday, although the search was carried back to our camp in the
Fire-Hole Basin. Word was left with some gentlemen visiting the
geysers, who were coming across on our trail, to take this mule back to
Fort Ellis in case it should find its way back to the trail before they
came along. Our rations were too short to permit any more time to be
spent in search and it was therefore abandoned.*
The flour belonged to the escort and is a severe loss, necessitating
half rations of bread for them during the remainder of the trip.
At night the Indians in camp up the valley had a scalp-dance over
two Sioux scalps that had been given by the Crows to two of the In-
dians with Captain Noyes's party going to Fort Ellis, who had
visited the Crow agency. They invited everybody to join, which
invitation was eagerly accepted by the young men of my party, the
guides, packers, and soldiers. This dance gives every one a chance to
sing and yell with all his might, and they literally made the Welkin
howl. There was considerable lung-power in action. The waves of
sound were echoed back and forth from the Woods and hills on either
side of the narrow grassy Valley, and came billowing to the lake with a
tremendous effect, which was heightened by the lurid glare from the
numerous camp-fires standing out in the darkness against the mass of
black forest behind. The West Pointers in the party called it “Our
twenty-eighth hop.” º
Friday, August 29.—I made arrangements for the main party to move
along the south shore of the lake toward the river, and started at
11 a. m. with Professor Comstock and a topographical party to make
the ascent of Mount Sheridan, about ten miles south of the lake.
The country is covered with a dense mass of timber on low rounded
hills, with the fallen timber So bad as to make much of the country im-
passable for animals. There was no trail and no one who knew any-
thing about the country. I went ahead, steering by the compass,
going around the masses of fallen timber and picking out the highest
ground and ridges to travel over. We were lucky enough to make
gamp at the foot of the mountain after a march of between three and
four hours. We could not see it at all at starting, and only caught one
glimpse of it on the way before we came directly upon it, and yet it
towers to a height of 3,000 feet above the surrounding country.
Saturday, August 30–Started up the mountain 7 a.m.; a very late
start for such work. As there was no chance to reconnoiter, we had the
ill luck to take the longest and most laborious line of ascent. The party
becoming separated, to my great surprise I reached the summit first at
9.45 a. m., and the rest of the party an hour later. Thinking myself
* This mule was found by them and turned in to the quartermaster at Fort Ellis.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 37
behind I had made great haste so as to reach the summit before the
others were ready to come down.
Mount Sheridan is a high mountain mass, rising alone from the rapidly
sloping hills of the Snake River drainage, just south of the Yellowstone
divide. All the rocks seen were igneous, sometimes stained and decom-
posed from hot-spring action. Springs and feeble geysers being still in
action along the streams from its north and east slopes. -
To the east and southeast is a ridge of high timbered hills, which
sweeps around to the northward and terminates in Promontory Point
at the South end of the lake. To the south, as far as the Wind River
range, about sixty miles distant, the country is a mass of high timbered
ridges, formed by the erosion of the Waters of Snake River, all rapidly
sloping down to the eastern base of the Tetons, which lie south 100
West, about forty miles distant.
Westward, and from the Tetons, there are no mountains, only low,
rounded, heavily-timbered hills, as far as the eye can reach. To the
north West commence the high ridges of bald mountains which lie be-
tween the different tributaries of the Gallatin and Madison Rivers.
Between Mount Sheridan and the lake, the divide between the Snake
and Yellowstone waters—the Continental Divide—is certainly not more
than 300 feet above the lake, and in many places runs within a mile of
the latter. It is a broad, comparatively low, gently rounded stretch of
country, so flat on top that the opposite-shedding waters are frequently
interlocked. It is dotted with lakes, some quite large, and carries a
good deal of marsh and strips of meadow along the streams. All of
the lakes in sight, except one, drain into the Snake River.
The divide between the waters of the Madison and the Yellowstone,
above the falls, is a stretch of smooth hills, rising but little above the
Yellowstone Basin, and having steep, rocky slopes only in few places.
All of the country in the basin about Yellowstone Lake and extending
far to the Westward is very densely timbered, with only small openings
along the streams and about the marshes.
There is a great deal of fallen timber, such as to sometimes com-
pletely obstruct progress, but I have observed that the most and the
worst of it lies in the immediate neighborhood of water, either in lake,
stream, or marsh, and can be very largely avoided by traveling high up
on the hills and ridges. Along the shores of Yellowstone Lake a great
deal of water is held in the numerous swamps which afford a constant
supply to the multitude of small brooks feeding into the lake. There is,
consequently, here an excessive quantity of fallen timber.
The huge mass of the Sierra Shoshonee Mountains closes in and
around to the northward of the basin, showing a comparatively low
granite ridge running from the East Fork with a northerly trend down
the right bank of the Yellowstone River. The highest portion of this
mass seems to be that northeast from the basin, about the head Waters
of Clark’s Fork and the Rosebud. Northward from there it soon runs
out and makes way for the valley of the Lower Yellowstone River. Its
structure seems to be buried beneath the most extensive outpouring of
lava and volcanic matter yet observed on the globe. Along its eastern
base we gained only an inkling of its structure from the dip of the
upper-lying rocks. Probably the key lies in the country on the Muscle-
Shell River, to the northward. It is probable that the southern portion
of this volcanic overflow at one time overlaid the northeastern slopes of
the Wind River range, and that the erosion of the drift period has cut a
channel through on this flank, forming the Wind River Valley and leav-
ing the extensive deposits of volcanic débris in the valley as well as tre-
38 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
mendous precipices of castellated basalt, trachytes, conglomerates, and
Sandstones that fringe and seemingly seal its head and northern border.
I had the topography of the country in sight from this station sketched
With great care and reasonable precision. It is the best geodetic sta-
tion in the region traversed. My topographical party has now inspected
the Yellowstone Lake Basin from mountain-peaks favorably situated
on its eastern, northern, and southern borders.
We commenced the descent at 12.30 p.m., and as soon as possible took
up the march for the main party. Their trail was struck at 5 p.m., and
followed until sundown, when we camped on the spot they had left in
the morning.
The smoke was still rising from the smouldering fires and the ground
still fresh on their departing trail. As I rode up to the scene so lately
rife with the jest; the coarse shouts of laughter; the murmuring of many
voices; the bugle's blast; the loud words of command; the round-toned,
cadenced shouts of the Indians; the shrill, clarionet-like cry of the
Squaws; the crying of papooses; the barking of dogs; neighing of
horses; braying of mules; the roaring and crackling of great camp-
fires; and the occasional rifle or pistol shot at some misguided squirrel—
it seemed utterly cheerless and desolate. What can appear more deso-
late than a freshly-deserted camp &
Sunday, August 31.-We have now only twelve days’ rations, and
between us and Camp Brown is the “impassable barrier never scaled
by White man or Indians.” If it were not for the question of provisions
I would laugh at it, because we have an outfit that can go almost any-
where ; but the question of time now assumes an unhappy importance,
and I begin to feel much worried.
We arose at daylight, cooked a hasty breakfast, and started off at
Sunrise, overtaking the main party at 9 a.m. on Yellowstone Lake, just
as they were preparing to start on the march. They had made one
march of ten miles over a good trail, and the one of the day before of
nine miles, which had been beset with difficulties, owing to the attempt
to follow the lake-shore too closely. There was no trail, but a great
deal of marsh and fallen timber.
Owing to some misunderstanding, the Indians lºad become angry
with Lieutenant Hall, and considerable jealousy had sprung up among
themselves, whereat the greater portion of them had left our camp and
gone off. -
After a short rest I started off with the guides to make a trail. It
was pretty rough for a few miles, but after that we struck a good
trail, with many freshly-blazed trees marking it. . A queer freak of
the disaffected Indians was here displayed. They had deserted the
main party and gone on aliead, when, finding this excellent trail, they
had freely blazed it with their hunting-knives for quite a distance until
the work and slow progress involved became monotonous. I regarded
this as an olive-branch, and treated them very kindly, as though noth-
ing had happened, when we passed them. They staid away two or
three days and then came back in driblets, but I never, by word or
sign, let them know that their absence had been thought of. Their own
jealousy continued a few days longer, and then everything went on as
happily as before.
We marched ten miles and camped at the extremity of the arm of
the lake that we left this morning. There is a well-marked beach along
this shore of the lake, but it is frequently deceptive and dangerous from
quicksands where the water comes in from marshes above; the timber
gradually becomes more open and meadows replace the swamps; the
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING, 39
country to the south rises rapidly into hills of considerable magnitude,
and the water drains off too rapidly to permit the formation of much
marsh.
Monday, September 1.-Broke camp and marched ten miles into the
valley of the Upper Yellowstone River. The trail strikes the southeast
arm of the lake, thence following up the valley of a small tributary
of the lake whose course is parallel to the river to a point high up on
the hills bordering the west side of the valley. The latter part is
pretty bad from marsh and underbrush. Our Camp was about ten miles
from the Inouth of the river.
The valley about the mouth is very marshy, with numerous small
ponds and sloughs. There is also a great deal of timber on the low
grounds on the west side, but from its proximity to Water there must be
in it a great deal of fallen timber to impede progress.
While the advance was quietly following a first-rate trail, it was sud-
denly observed to lead up a high hill to our right. I sent an Indian to
see what became of it up there, who came back with the information
that it led to an open rocky place on top, and was after that “kaywut,”
(played out.) It now appeared that the top of the hill was used as a
stamping-ground for elk, and they had made such a broad trail leading
up to it as to completely deceive us. Sending back word to the train
to go into camp, we started in search of our lost trail, which was soon .
found considerably lower down in the valley.
We have now reached a country from which one of our Indians says
he knows the way back to Camp Brown by the head of Wind River.
He belongs to a band of Shoshones called “Sheep-eaters,” who have
been forced to live for a number of years in the mountains away from
the tribe. A heavy rain-storm set in about night-fall.
Tuesday, September 2.--Broke camp a. m. and marched up the Yellow-
stone River thirteen miles. The trail leaves the timber and goes into
the open valley. This latter is probably quite marshy earlier in the
season. It is also probable that the river is not fordable in the spring.
The storm of last night burst out about noon with great violence and
continued during the day and night. A good deal of snow fell in the
mountains about 1,000 feet above us. -
We camped in the edge of a grove of pines with a dense fringe of
fallen timber on its border. It was a cold, wet camp in the border of
the timber, and considerably mixed withal. As it was raining hard when
We reached it, everybody dropped into the first place that presented
itself; the fallen timber monopolized nearly all of the ground, so that
there was little cheice; the result was, that Indians, soldiers, citizens,
and officers were all camped together in the direst confusion, on a small
spot that it seemed possible almost to cover with a blanket.
All through this basin game-tracks have been very abundant, but
our party from its size makes a good deal of noise, which will account
for the fact that we did not see a great deal. A magnificent elk crossed
the valley in advance of us, and in plain sight to-day. He was a royal
feilow, indeed, and seemed to resent our intrusion upon his chosen rut-
ting-ground. The party was too much drenched and too cold from the
driving rain to make any attempt to get him ; the first instance of the
escape of anything (except bear) that came in sight of it. The trail
was very good except the last mile, which was quite marshy.
Wednesday, September 3.—The storm continued. Broke camp 8 a. m.
and marched thirteen miles. The trail soon leaves the main stream and
follows up a small tributary that comes in from a little West of south,
crossing a low divide to a tributary of the Snake.
40 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
At this divide occurs a curious phenomenon, probably the one re-
ferred to by the early trappers as the “Two Ocean Pass.”
Marching at the head of the column where the trail approached
the Summit, I noticed that the riband of meadow in which the stream
lay We had been following suddenly dropped away in front of
us with a contrary slope. I could still see the stream thread-
ing it, and for a moment could searcely believe my eyes. It seemed
as if the stream was running up over this divide and down into
the Yellowstone behind us. A hasty examination in the face of
the driving storm revealed a phenomenon less startling perhaps,
but still of remarkable interest. A small stream coming down from
the mountains to our left I found separating its waters in the
meadow where we stood, sending one portion into the stream ahead
of us, and the other into the one behind us-the one following its (les-
tiny through the Snake and Columbia Rivers back to its home in the
Pacific ; the other, through the Yellowstone and Missouri, seeking the
foreign water of the Atlantic by one of the longest voyages known to
running water. On the Snake River side of the divide the stream be-
comes comparatively large at once, being fed by many springs, and a
great deal of marsh.
While the small advance party were approaching camp two of our
Indians discovering three elk close by gave us an illustration of skillful
hunting by crawling up and killing the three with four rifle-shots. They
were extremely large and fat. As examples of Indian generosity to
White men are becoming rare, I wish to put on record this one where
one of them made me a present of the whole carcass of one of these elk.
Being hungry enough to eat it all myself, after the long march in the cold
rain, I had a vivid appreciation of the gift.
The trail was good, passing around a beautiful lake in the Yellow-
stone Valley, which is probably the Bridger Lake of the old maps.
The valley of the Upper Yellowstone is quite flat, and lies between
grand and rugged walls of bare, broad mountains of volcanic ejectamenta.
It is from one to three miles wide, and interspersed with broad meadows,
and groves of pine and spruce. The amount of water that it receives
from the slopes on either side is astonishing, and accounts sufficiently
for its marshy character. -
There is a remarkable discrepancy between the volumne of water in
the river above and below the lake. The storm prevented us from mak-
ing observations for a comparison, and I can only say that above the
lake the stream seems ridiculously small compared to what it is below.
The volume of water which the lake receives from small streams and the
numberless marshes along its border must be very great.
Thursday, September 4.—There is only one Indian in the party who
knows the country between here and Wind River, and he seems to be
getting proud of the power he has over us and wants to exercise it a little.
When all ready for the start it was discovered that he was enjoying all
the comforts of a home in the bosom of his family and taking a quiet smoke
after having been told to get ready an hour before. Here was a dilemma.
It was his second offense, and must be noticed, but to rebuke him and
rouse his anger Inight be followed by his certain departure, followed in
all likelihood by all of his dusky brethren. It was no easy matter to
make them understand us when we were perfectly quiet. How much
misapprehension must occur in case all should become excited and
angry. I sent another message to him, and rode along myself trying
to look solemn and determined during its delivery. To our great grati-
fication he surlily saddled up his pony and struck off on the trail, as-
suming from thence forward a winning Smile and air of boyish oblivion.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 41.
We marched fourteen miles across the high rolling outliers of the
Sierra Shoshonee, with the mountains close on our left, and camped on
another tributary of Snake River.
The hills between the valleys are quite large but considerably worn,
so as to present accessible slopes. The dense timber which has caused
us so much trouble and labor is rapidly thinning out so that the trail
can be picked out mostly clear of it. Magnificent slopes of grass and
luxuriant flowers are becoming numerous.
In getting through the timber and over the terrible trails that we
have seen so much of, it has been my custom to start first on the march
with a small party, consisting of the guides, a few of the best Indians,
and two soldiers with hatchets to blaze our trail. Immediately after comes
a pioneer-party from the escort with axes and shovels to clear the trail
that has been blazed ; cutting away trees and fallen timber; cutting
down steep banks, filling bogs with brush, and making a passable way
for the crowd of animals and pack-mules that were to start two or three
hours later. How necessary it was to keep the clearing party well ahead
of the train will appear when it is known that the pack-train could not
stop in the dense forest without great danger of losing some of the
animals, as it would be impossible to keep them on the trail; and, once
off of it, there was little bope of finding them.
Ont he march, a train of pack-mules travels as a unit, as though each
mule were connected with the one in front, but let a halt be called, and
each one becomes a free and independent creature to hunt for grass, or
the bell-mare, at will.
Just before reaching camp, two of the Indians and one of the white
guides killed three bears after a lively skirmish. There are wood, water,
and grass all along the trail, which is excellent.
Friday, September 5.-The Indian difficulty came up early. The fellow
after being told to get ready in time to start with us, went off up the
stream to trap for beaver. It was evidently time to deal with him. Call-
ing the one who acted as interpreter, and several of the most prominent
Indians about me, I endeavored to make them understand that this fellow
was not doing as he had agreed to with me; that we had to travel back to
Camp Brown as fast as we possibly could or else our rations would give
out, and there was not game enough in the country to feed such a big
crowd ; that I could go back without his assistance, only it would take
longer to find the way, and we might get very hungry before we
got back to Camp Brown ; that I had sooner do that than have any more
nonsense from him, and that he either must do as he had promised, or I
would have him tied up and carried back to Camp Brown and put in
the white man's jail there. I then sent out two Indian runners to follow
up his trail, find him as soon as possible, and tell him that he must
come in as fast as he could—well knowing that they would tell him all
that I had said. To my utter relief, in about half an hour they were
discovered away up the valley returning with him, and driving their
horses at desperate speed ; without a word he took his place in advance
of the column, and soon appeared perfectly cheerful and contented. Still
I had a fear that he might in resentment lead us out of the Way, and
watched him with much apprehension. The few days following proved
my fears groundless. He as well as the others were overawed, and said
that “the captain” was “heap mad.” The only misunderstanding that
arose from my talk to them was an impression that I was going to put
him and a few of his intimate friends in jail upon our return. We did .
get into a great deal of trouble on this day's march, but no one worked
harder than he to help us out of it.
We broke camp at 8 a. m., and after a march of nine miles the trail
42 BECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
led across a large densely-timbered hill. About half way up it the fallen
timber lay so thickly across the trail that it soon appeared to be a hercu-
lean task to get through it. Everybody took hold, officers, men, guides,
and, to the astonishment of all, even the Indians who were with
the advance, but before we had any hope of getting through, the train
came up with us, making it unnecessary to go into camp.
Sending back word to it to camp before attacking the hill, I sent
out the Indians and guides to look up a better place for crossing, and
in the mean time scrambled ahead on foot over this trail far enough to
see that it would take at least a day to clear away the fallen timber so
as to make it practicable.
Toward night the Indians returned, having been successful in finding
a way across. They pointed it out to me, and I am free to confess it
seemed about as feasible as to lead the train over a squirrel-trail up a
tree. It boldly attacked the hill by way of numerous openings at its
steepest part. e
The trail to camp was good, with Wood, water, and grass abundant
The vegetation is luxuriant. -
All of the Snake River drainage above the Tetons concentrates in a
low-lying tract along their eastern base, called Jackson's Hole. For
this reason I have called this partial water-shed the Teton Basin.
Viewed from the east, the Tetons rise from a low elevation, and, being
projected against a low country, their appearance is truly majestic.
From their aspect at this distance, I should judge their structure in
altitude to be the same as that at the Washakee Needles, i. e., lamellar
granite, forming numerous acicular pinnacles.
Saturday, September 6.—Broke camp at 7 a.m., and making a trail over
the tremendously-steep hill by continual zigzags, up which it took
the train one hour and a half to climb, we marched ten miles over a
very good trail, and camped close by the pass to Wind River.
I rode ahead into the pass with the Indian guide, who pointed to me
Wind River Valley displayed at our feet in its full length, with evident
pride and satisfaction. Dismounting, I climbed the high mountain South
of the pass with much difficulty, and had a view that seemed to unravel
a good deal of the mystery in which this region has been wrapped. I
found myself on the extreme point of the southwestern angle of the
Sierra Shoshonee, and at the very head of Wind River. -
Along their southern wall to the southeast lay the Wind River Valley,
in which I could see Crow Heart Butte, not far from Camp Brown.
Across came the grand Wind River Mountains, sweeping up to a climax
in Union Peak and running out at a point ten miles south from me. From
just south of this extremity, running west as far as Snake River near
the southern extremity of the Tetons, and culminating in snow-clad peaks
along the Western half, lay a range of mountains which have hardly
attracted notice before as such, and which I have named the Wyoming
Mountains. From the south they appear as a continuation of the Wind
River Mountains. To the west, distant forty miles, the Tetons seemed
to pierce the sky with their needle-like spires; between and to the north-
west and north lay the Teton Basin, a semi-funnel-shaped region of high,
rolling, green-clad hills, narrowing to a focus in Jackson's Hole at the
foot of the Tetons, and far beyond was just a glimpse of Mount Sheridan
-a grand mountain, which will always do honor to the general's name.
The culminating point of the Tetons has for a very long time been
called the Grand Teton. It is a good name, and I see no reason for
changing it, although some members of Dr. Hayden's party of 1872 have
seen fit to rename it after him. I know of no man who is more worthy
of having his name left behind him in the Rocky Mountains than be ;
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 43
but certainly, among the “thousand peaks worthy of a name” which he
describes, along the western face of the Sierra Shoshone, some one
might have been selected which would have gone down to posterity
With a clearer title. -
The Teton Basin is notable for the abundance of its streams, the lux-
uriance of its vegetation, and the happy distribution of immense areas
of low-lying timber-land among a liberal display of grassy slopes and
valleys.
Togwotee Pass lies between the head of Wind River and a small
tributary of Snake River. It has an altitude of 9,621 feet above the sea,
but, notwithstanding this altitude, the approaches to it are quite easy.
A railroad could be carried over it without extraordinary expense. Just
South of it is the last peak of the Sierra Shoshonee in this direction. It
is composed of horizontal layers of volcanic ejectamenta, (sand, sand-
stone, and conglomerate,) and rises to an elevation of 10,625 feet above
the Sea.
Sunday, September 7.—We crossed the divide and camped on Wind
River, after a march of fifteen miles. The trail is good, except about
tWO miles of fallen timber on the Wind River side. After this there is
no more timber in the Wind River Valley, except the cottonwood along
the streams. Grass occurs in meadows along the streams and sparsely
Over the rolling hills, on either side.
A marked change of climate is noticeable immediately upon entering
Wind River Valley. It is considerably warmer, both by day and night,
and the relative humidity is very much less. The effect of this is notice-
able in the comparative scarcity of springs, streams, and marshes, in
the dry and dusty character of the soil, in the sun-cured grasses, and in
the gray and sun-dried appearance of the face of the country so peculiar
to the rainless region of the Rocky Mountains. In the Teton and Upper
Yellowstone Basin the grasses look fresh and green; there are number-
less marshes, springs, and small streams, and the black soil does not
fly into a cloud of dust at first touch. Indeed, our whole train rarely
broke the soil enough to raise the dust. These considerations, taken in
connection with the weather observations made on the trip, lead me to
infer that we may find in these basins a region of equable precipitation
of rain—a phenomenon of rare occurrence in the great Rocky Mountain
plateau. I think it quite probable that here the soil can be cultivated
without irrigation; and it may be as well to remark jºst here that the soil
of this great plateau is generally quite rich, however unpromising it may
appear at first sight; but in these basins, coming, as it does, from the
decomposition of volcanic rocks, it is peculiarly fertile. -
Monday, September 8.-Broke camp at 10 a.m., and marched seventeen
miles down Wind River. The trail is good and well marked, being the
one used by the Indians in their trips to Snake River and Fort Bridger.
There is good camping-ground almost anywhere in Wind River. The
heat and dust are oppressive. -
Tuesday, September 9,-Sent a small party of Indians to Camp Brown
to announce our return and obtain information regarding the presence
of hostile Indians. Broke camp at 9.45 a.m. and marched twenty miles.
Wednesday, September 10–Lieutenant Hall and a small party started
at 5 a.m. for Camp Brown, expecting to get in before night. Broke
camp at 10 a.m., and marched twenty miles to a point about three miles
above the mouth of Bull Lake Fork; grass rather thin.
Thursday, September 11.—Broke camp at 9.30 a.m., and crossed Wind
River, moving on down to Lake Fork. After crossing the latter we
struck across a Very high plateau to Sage Creek, coming upon our out-
44 RECONN AISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
going trail and camping near a former camp. Distance traveled, seven-
teen miles; grass and poor water; no wood.
Friday, September 12.-Broke camp at 8.30 a. m., and marched eight
and one-half miles to Camp Brown.
September 17, 18, and 19.-The expedition marched back to Camp
Stambaugh, where it was disbanded. -
I take the greatest pleasure in according to Captain Noyes the credit
that is due him for having, by his skill and energy in assisting us, con-
tributed very largely to whatever of success that has attached to the
expedition. Perhaps this will be better understood when I state that a
delay of three days at the Big Muddy and Ham's Fork, which might
very easily have occurred, would have been followed by a delay of two
weeks at Green River on account of the freshet. This delay would have
brought us into the Big Horn Valley after the arrival there of a power-
ful War-party of Sioux, which, it is known, came in shortly after we went
out, and who certainly would have driven us back to Camp Brown, and,
perhaps, made the expedition a failure. .
In conclusion, I may perhaps be pardoned for referring to the opin-
ions that previous explorers have held with regard to the character of
the undertaking accomplished by this expedition. -
From the report for the year 1872 of N. P. Langford, superintendent
of the Yellowstone National Park, I extract the following:
The park is only accessible from Montana. It is unpossible to enter it from Wyoming.
Attempts to scale the vast ridge of mountains on the eastern and southern borders
have been made by several expeditions across the continent, commencing with that of
Wilson G. Hunt, the chief of Astor’s overland expedition in the year 1811. As late
as 1833 the indomitable Captain Bonneville was thwarted in a similar effort, and,
after devising various modes of escape from the mountain-labyrinth in which he was
lost, determined to make one more effort to ascend the range. Selecting one of the
highest peaks, in company with one of his men, Washington Irving says:
“After much toil he reached the summit of a lofty cliff, but it was only to behold
gigantic peaks rising all around, and towering far into the snowy regions of the atmos-
phere. He soon found that he had undertaken a tremendous task; but the pride of
man is never more obstinate than when climbing mountains. The ascent was so steep
and rugged that he and his companion were frequently obliged to clamber on hands
and knees, with their guns slung upon their backs. Frequently exhausted with fatigue
and dripping with perspiration, they threw themselves upon the snow, and took hand-
fuls of it to allay their thirst. %. 3. * As they ascended still higher,
there were cool breezes that refreshed and braced them; and springing with new ardor
to their task, they at length attained the summit. #4
As late as 1860, Captain Raynolds was foiled in repeated efforts to
cross the barrier. While camped on Wind River, at the southeastern
base of this formidable mountain, he wrote, (Senate Ex. Doc. No. 77,
40th Congress, 1st session :)
To our front and upon the right the mountains towered above us to the height
of from 3,000 to 5,000 feet in the shape of bold, craggy peaks of basaltic formation,
their summits crowned with glistening snow. % jſ % 7& %
Directly across our route lies a basaltic ridge rising not less than 5,000 feet above us, its
walls apparently vertical, and no visible pass, or even caſion. On the opposite side of
this are the headwaters of the Yellowstone. Bridger remarked triumphantly and forci-
bly to me upon this spot: “I told you you could not go through. A bird cannot fly over that
without taking a supply of grub along.” I had no reply to offer, and mentally conceded
the accuracy of the information of the “old man of the mountains.”
Dr. F. W. Hayden, in his Report for 1871 of the Geological Survey of the
Territories, p. 134, says:
The range of mountains on the east and south of the Yellowstone Basin % %
* * seems to be entirely of volcanic origin; they are also among the ruggedest and
most inaccessible ranges on the continent. From the valley of Wind River they present
a nearly vertical wall from 1,500 to 2,000 feet high, which has never been scaled by
white man or Indian, but are covered with perpetual snows to a greater or less extent .
From any high point a chaotic mass of peaks may be seen.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 45
C E A P T E R II.
PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
General description—Green River basin—North Platte basin—Wind-Big-Horn basin—
Yellowstone-Teton basin—Indian trails.
The region traversed by this expedition lies in the western extremity
of the Territory of Wyoming, including the whole extent of the Terri-
tory from the southern to the northern boundary. It lies between N. lat-
itude 419, along the base of the Uintah Mountains,—a little south of
the Union Pacific Railroad, and 45° at the north boundary of the Yel-
lowstone National Park, and W. longitude 1089 at the Big Horn River,
and 1119 near the Western boundary of Yellowstone Park, and the east-
ern base of the Wahsatch Mountains. It forms a trapezoid, with the
longest dimension running north and South, with an area of about
41,925 square miles. Distance across, at the Southern boundary, one hun-
dred and fifty-seven miles; at the northern boundary, one hundred and
forty-seven miles; and length from South to north about two hundred
and seventy-six miles.
It is a portion of the plateau from whose surface rise the numerous
ridges which, taken together, form the Rocky Mouritains. Between north
latitude 419 and 469, the general trend of these ridges changes from a
northerly to a northwesterly direction, and in the obtuse angle thus
formed the ridges themselves are so broken and scattered that the east-
ern water-shed breaks quite through and takes a considerable portion of
the drainage from the western slopes, while between them, and extend-
ing as far West as the Wahsatch Mountains, in west longitude 111° 30',
the plateau itself is exposed, opening out into the great plains of the
Missourion the east, through the valley of the North Platte River; across
the gap between the northern extremity of the Black Bills and the Big
Horn Mountains; and on the north through the valley of the Big Horn
Biver between the Sierra Shoshone and the Big Horn Mountains. The
Black EIills of Dakota form a remarkable outlier nearly opposite the eastern
opening and the point of the angle—lying between the two main forks of
the Big Cheyenne River, a tributary of the Missouri, in latitude 430
north and longitude 109° 30' West from Greenwich.
Hypsometrical observations enough have now been taken by the nu-
merous parties that have traversed it, to show a fair approximation to
the mean height of this plateau above the Sea, but they are not availa-
ble for my reference, as this writing is done at a place where the neces-
sary means of reference upon scientific subjects are very scant indeed.
Enough has come within my observation, however, to lead me to esti-
mate it at about 6,500 feet.
Its breadth from east to west along the parallel of 42° north latitude
is three hundred and nine miles, and its length along the meridian of
10SO 30' is three hundred and forty-five miles. The area described is, as
a rule, semi-barren and treeless, although the Soil is quite rich and sup-
ports a scanty growth of extremely nutritious grass in connection with
a few very hardy shrubs. -
The line of the Rocky Mountain divide, or Water-parting, passes
through this region. This line, after traversing the country from
Mexico in a northerly direction between the meridians of 1060 and 108C
west longitude, is deflected from its course in north latitude 40° 30',
where bending around the head of North Park it soon leaves the ridge
of maximum elevation—in fact leaves the mountains altogether——and,
46 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
taking a northwest-by-northerly trend, follows a low line at an eleva-
tion of about 7,500 feet across the plateau just described to the Wind
River range, making a sharp detour about the head of the Sweetwater
River, which here breaks through the low ridge and intrudes upon the
Pacific water-shed, giving a poor excuse for the name of South Pass;
thence following the summit of the range to its northwestern extremity;
thence by a tortuous course about the heads of the Wind, Snake, and
Yellowstone Rivers in the Sierra Shoshone range, from which it shortly
emerges into the Yellowstone Lake Basin; thence northwesterly, skirt-
ing the southern border of Yellowstone Lake, at an altitude, in some places,
of between two and three bundred feet above it, running—still a very
tortuous line,—between Shoshone Lake and the Upper Geyser Basin, on
Fire. Hole River, to the low ridge, with a deep flexure to the southeast, which
surrounds the sources of the Three Forks of the Missouri; thence return-
ing to the line of direction departed from it takes a north-northwesterly
course into the British Possessions. It will be seen that for the greater
portion of this distance the continental divide is a comparatively low
line, with high mountain-ridges arranged on either side of it, on the
opposite slopes of the great plateau.
Including the portion of this divide between the parallels of 440 and
510 north latitude, we have the crown of the water-shed of the con- .
tinent, from which the water is shed literally in all directions, as from
a point; to the north through the Mackenzie River, to the Arctic Ocean;
to the east, through the Saskatchewan and Lake Winnipeg, to Hudson's
Bay; to the east and south, through the Missouri, Yellowstone, Wind,
and Big Horn, to the Atlantic Ocean; to the south, through the Green
and Colorado, to the Gulf of California and the Pacific Ocean ; and to
the west, through the Snake and Columbia, to the Pacific.
The table-land of Wyoming, previously described, forms, in the
Southern half, the most important pass through the Rocky Mountain
chain. It is a belt about one hundred and forty miles broad, from Inorth
to south, and is traversed by roads along its northern and Southern
borders and through the middle, the latter being the line of the Union
Pacific Railroad.
The principal water-sheds formed are five, viz.: 1st. The Mackenzie-
Saskatchewan ; 2d. The Missouri-Mississippi; 3d. The Colorado-Snake;
4th. The Columbia; and 5th the remarkable region lying between north
latitude 330 and 432 and west longitude 1110 and 1210, where the surface-
waters are either carried into lakes without outlets or into “sinks,” Where
they disappear from the surface. To give a description of these Water-
sheds would lead me beyond the scope of this paper into a field for
which sufficient material for reference is not available. The description
will, therefore, be confined to the subordinate basins lying near their
superior limits and within the field of the reconnaissance. These are the
Green River, the North Platte, the Wind River, the Big Horn, the Upper
Yellowstone, and the Teton Basins.
THE GREEN RIVER IBASIN.
This basin is formed by the Wyoming and Wind River Mountains
and the continental divide on the north and east, and by the Wahsatch
and Uintah Mountains on the West and South. Its dimensions are two
hundred and twenty-three and one hundred and seventy-five miles along
the forty-first parallel and the one hundred and tenth meridian, respect-
ively. -
The Wyoming Mountains form a spur, which leaves the Wind River
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 47
range near Union Peak, in latitude 43° 25', longitude 108° 50', running
in a Westerly direction to Snake River. The highest elevation is Mount
Leidy, near the western extremity. Near their junction with the main
range the altitude becomes quite low, forming one of the passes through
which the Shoshonee (Snake) Indians reach the head of Green River.
The Wind River Mountains rise from the continental divide, in latitude
42° 30', longitude 1080 48', at Camp Stambaugh, and run, with a north-
Inorthwesterly trend, at an elevation of about 13,000 feet, to latitude 400
37', longitude 1090 55'. The culminating points are: (1) Union Peak,
near the northwestern extremity, with an estimated altitude of 14,000
feet; and (2) Fremont's Peak, near the Southeastern extremity, whose
altitude is 13,750 feet. This range is one of the principal elevations in
the itocky Mountains. It is a huge ridge, with the sedimentary rocks
sweeping up in long, broken slopes to a broad belt of crystalline schists
at the summit. This belt is estimated to be about eight miles broad,
and is very much cut up by fissures. Numerous veins of quartz occur
in it. The Sweetwater mines are found in these rocks, on the south-
western extremity of the ridge.
Along the northern slope deep monoclinal valleys occur, from which
the waters escape to the plains below through short, but very sharp
and deep, caſions. Only a few of these openings occur, and between
them the long, smooth slopes have suffered comparatively little from
erosion, and are probably seen now in something like the original shape.
The principal valleys are longitudinal, and not transverse, as is usually
the case. Considerable timber occurs, but it is in the valleys above the
lower ridges.
There is a pass across to the head of Green River, near Union Peak,
and another across to the Gros Ventres Fork of Snake River. Animals
have been ridden across from the head of Green River to Camp Brown,
but it is probably quite a difficult task.
The continental divide is simply the line of superior elevation of
the plateau itself. Its altitude is about 7,500 feet; but little above the
surrounding country. South Pass is where the Sweetwater breaks.
through, and does not deserve the name of pass at all. -
The Wahsatch range in Northern Utah has a trend that bears a little
west from north ; toward the southern extremity the direction of the
range seems to bear off considerably to the west, but I surmise from
a hasty personal examination that this is caused by a number of the
parallel ridges, so characteristic in Utah, lapping over each other thus:
A/ The range comprises a series of three or more parallel
A ridges, which terminate in about latitude 439, although
* it is probable that the Tetons, much farther north,
really belong to it. Its southern limit has not been very.
...” well defined yet, but it will not be far wrong to place it
---------|- º in latitude 379. In Northern Utah the peaks are gen-
erally from 10,000 to 12,000 feet high, the latter limit
being reached in the Twin Peaks, a little southeast
from Salt Lake City. The range is not more than fairly
timbered.
The Uintahs are considered a spur from the Wahsatch, but it is more
probable that they are one of the transverse ridges of the Rocky Mount-
ain chain. Their elevation is considerably greater than the Wahsatch.
They leave the latter in the vicinity of latitude 40° 30', thence trending
northwesterly by a curved line, which turns a little to the south before
reaching Green River, where it practically terminates. The extreme ele-
Vation is attained in the vicinity of Gilbert's Peak, where Mount Hodges
%
\
48 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
and Mount Toh-kwana have an elevation of about 13,500 feet. Gil-
bert's Peak is 13,250 feet. The range forms an immense ridge, with an
almost level but badly-broken-up ridge on top, having a width of from
twenty-five to thirty miles, and an altitude of about 6,000 feet above
the table-land on the north, and about 7,000 feet above the similar table-
land on the South.
The valleys are numerous, deep, and narrow, except at the head, and
extend quite up to the summit. Between them, on the north, are the
transverse and generally unbroken ridges, by means of which the sum-
mit can be reached by a gradual ascent. On the south these ridges are
badly broken toward the summit. Ranged on either side of the summit-
line are enormous basins of erosion at the head of the valleys. They
have a direction considerably oblique to that of the prevailing winds,
and in consequence the amount of snow that drifts in during the winter
must be enormous. At such an altitude this snow melts comparatively
slowly and furnishes an almost continuous supply of water to the very
numerous mountain-streams, much of which is first caught in the multi-
tude of small lakes that are sprinkled around the border of the basins.
On the north slope there is a good deal of marsh in these basins, but on
the south the water, having to make about 1,000 feet more descent in
reaching the plains, runs off much more rapidly, and leaves but little
marsh. This circumstance, combined with the greater heat of the
southern exposure, makes many of the smaller streams run dry early in
the season. #
The opposite Valleys frequently start from about the same point and
have between their sources only a thin precipitous wall, which erosion
is slowly removing. Gilbert's Pass, at an elevation of 11,000 feet, is such
a point. Here the wall has been sufficiently worn away to admit of the
construction of a road across it. There are probably few such places at
present. The broad belt or strip along the summit is broken and eroded
enormously; ridges of high peaks extend across it between the valleys,
and many narrow precipitous caſions occur, both along the valleys and
transversely to them. The sides of these ridges are generally masses of
broken rock. The country along the base of the mountains, both on the
north and south, is an elevated, highly-terraced plateau of soft earth,
the slopes of the terraces being generally as steep as the earth will stand,
and frequently quite barren.
The timber-line, or superior limit of forest-growth, is at an altitude of
11,000 feet. Below this these mountains are covered with a dense for-
est, very much interspersed with small openings of meadow.
Of the northwestern outline of this basin comparatively little is known.
It is probable that the divide here between Green and Snake Rivers is
a low ridge of mountains—a continuation of the Wahsatch system.
Of the mountain-ranges described, none rise to the limit of perpetual
snow. Only a few large banks or drifts on their northern slopes remain
from one winter to another.
The basin itself is a broad highly-terraced plain, the bed of an ancient
lake. Away from the immediate vicinity of its scanty streams the
excessive erosion of the soft soil has left many isolated buttes and
patches of bad lands, and there is every where the appearance of bar-
renness given by the gray hue of the universal sage-brush and grease-
wood. The soil, however, as a general rule, is quite rich, and produces
splendid crops where sufficient water can be supplied to it by irriga-
tion, and when the unseasonable frosts do not interfere. Bunch-grass,
which is extremely nutritious, grows sparsely among the sage-brush.
The water comes entirely from the surrounding mountains, springs
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 49
being very rare indeed. Some very fine springs occur near South Pass,
at Pacific Springs.
The valleys of the streams are narrow, with meadow and pasturage
near the mountains, but toward the interior the vegetation is rather
sparse. No trees grow except a few cottonwoods along the streams,
and away from the mountains even these are rare. The region is in-
fested with great swarms of grasshoppers. In and near the mountains
the valleys are fertile, well watered, and, together with the lower slopes,
furnish an extensive and abundant pasturage. Some rain falls, but
probably not sufficient for cultivation of the soil without irrigation.
All of the hardy cereals and vegetables can be successfully cultivated
both in the mountains and on the plains.
In the mountains extensive forests of coniferous trees occur, but as the
streams are generally not large enough to float logs, they are, or rather
will be, for some time inaccessible.
The rivers are Green River and its tributaries. Green River rises in
the southwestern slopes of the Wind River Mountains and southern
slopes of the Wyoming Mountains. Its course through the basin is
generally southerly until it strikes the base of the Uintah Mountains,
where its course is deflected to the left in seeking for a passage through
them in longitude 108° 53'. It receives numerous tributaries from the
outliers of the Wahsatch on the right, and, with the exception of Bear
River, the whole drainage from the north slopes of the Uintahs, and a
few on the left from the continental divide. .
Of those on the right the principal ones are: (1) Black's Fork, which
drains the angle between the Wahsatch and the Uintahs; and (2) Hen-
ry’s Fork, which drains the middle slopes of the Uintains. On the left
we have: (1) The Big Sandy with its tributaries draining the southern
slopes of the Wind River range and a short portion of the continental
divide; (2) Bitter Creek, which rises in the continental divide and trav-
erses a country where the soil generally carries a considerable quantity
of alkaline salts, giving their character to the few streams that flow
through it; and (3) the Little Snake River, which drains that portion of
the continental divide which lies south of the Union Pacific Railroad.
THE NORTH PLATTE BASIN.
This region is bounded on the south and west by the continental
divide and the southeast extremity of the Wind River range ; on the
north by the low divide that separates the Sweetwater and North Platte
Rivers from the Wind and Powder Rivers; on the east by the Black
Hills. Its greatest dimensions are 204 miles along the parallel of 429
30', and 173 miles along the meridian of 106° 30'. -
The Black Hills form the continuation of the easternmost ridge o
the Rocky Mountains beyond the point where the line of general direc-
tion of the range is deflected to the northwest. Their northern limit is
near Laramie Peak, in latitude 42° 10' and longitude 105° 25' ; from
this point their direction is almost due south to latitude 419, where the
Cache-la-Poudre, a tributary of the South Platte, breaks through the
ridge. The general altitude is between 8,000 and 9,000 feet. It is a
low range with gently rounded slopes, and a ridge of granite crags
along the summit, culminating in Laramie Peak, one of the noted land-
marks of the West. The Western slopes, running down into a table-
land whose elevation is about 7,000 feet, are much shorter than the
eastern, which leave the plains at an altitude of 6,000 feet—1,000 feet
lower. The axis-line lies quite close to their Western border. But little
water is drained from their western slopes, while the eastern is quite
H. Ex. 2S5 4
5() RECONN AISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
well watered, furnishing many fine Valleys susceptible of cultivation.
There is good grazing all over the range. Timber occurs, but some-
What sparsely. The ridge is crossed by numerous roads.
The Medicine Bow Mountains are the continuation of another ridge
of the Rocky Mountain chain in Colorado, which extends as an isolated
ridge into the basin of the North Platte, between the Black Hills and
the continental divide. This high range has its northern limit near Elk
Mountain, in latitude 41° 40', longitude 106° 30'. From this point the
range has a southeasterly trend to its southern extremity, which is im-
perfectly known, and indeed but little is known of the range itself.
The basin has very nearly the same surface characteristics as the
Green River Basin. Whether the ancient lake that once occupied the
latter extended across the divide into this, to cut it up into terraces
during its subsidence, is still an unsettled question. This much is cer.
tain, that the country is smoother and not characterized by terraces to
anything like the extent of the former.
The Laramie plains is a bight of land extending in a southerly direc-
tion between the Black Hills and the Medicine Bow Mountains. This is
the most favored spot in the Whole plateau; the surface of the country is
rolling, and thinly covered with grass, while the valleys of the streams
through it afford excellent pasturage. Irrigation is necessary in the
cultivation of the soil. Quite a noticeable feature of the whole plateau
is that grazing is possible during the Whole year; and although but
little rain falls, yet the grasses become sun-cured, and are always very
nutritious. The North Platte River rises in North Park, an elevated
valley of the Rocky Mountains, in latitude 40° 30', longitude 1069, and
flows in a northwesterly direction, carrying the drainage of the Medi-
cine Bow range and the continental divide, to latitude 41° 30', where
it bends to the north—passing the Union Pacific Railroad at Fort
Steele, as far as latitude 42° 20', when it enters a deep caſion of incon-
siderable length, and, sweeping around in a semicircle to the east and
south, marks out, perhaps, the northern limit of the easternmost ridges
of the Rocky Mountain chain.
On the right its principal tributaries are: (1) Medicine Bow River,
which drains the north slopes of the range of that name and the South
slope of the hills in the great bend of the river; and (2) the Laramie
River, which drains the eastern slopes of the Medicine Bow Mountains
and the slopes in the angle between the latter and the Rocky Mountain
range, and flowing northerly through the Laramie plains makes a short
bend to the eastward, in latitude 42°, Cutting a Cañon quite through the
Black Hills, and joins the North Platte in latitude 429 12", at Fort Lara-
mie. On the left its only tributary of importance is the Sweetwater River,
which takes its rise in the southern slopes of the Wind River Mountains
and flowing in an easterly direction joins the North Platte in latitude
42O 25/.
The roads that cross the two basins just described in the direction of
the parallels of latitude have already been mentioned. They are also
traversed by—(1) a road from Medicine Bow Station, on the Union Pacific
Railroad, in a northerly direction to Fort Fetterman; (2) one from Point
of Rocks, on the railroad, northward to South Pass City and the Wind
River Valley; (3) one from Bryan, on the railroad, northeasterly to the
Sweetwater mines and Wind River Valley; (4) one from Fort Bridger to
South Pass in a northeasterly direction, (the old emigrant-road to Salt
Lake City and the Pacific coast;) and (5) one from Evanston, On the
railroad, northward along the valley of Bear Iłiver to the Mormon set-
tlements at Bear Lake to Soda Springs, and to Fort Hall, in the Snake
River Valley.
RECONN AISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 51
THE WIND-DIG. HORN BASIN.
This basin opens into the basin of the Lower Yellowstone on the
north ; has the Big Horn Mountain on the east, the low divide between
the Sweetwater and the Wind-Big Horn on the south, and the Sierra
Shoshone and Wind River ranges on the west. Its longest dimen-
sions are one hundred and seventy-five miles along the meridian of 108°
30', and one hundred and twenty-six miles along the parallel of 43° 30'.
Of the Big Horn range but little that is reliable is known. The
probability is that the axis is a curved line. Commencing very low,
about in latitude 430, longitude 107° 30', the line of direction runs
northeasterly as far as Cloud Peak, the summit of the range in latitude
44° 23', longitude 1079, and thence northwesterly to the Big Horn River
in latitude 450 10/, longitude 108° 7'. The culmination seems to be a
cluster of peaks. To the north of these the range sinks to a low eleva-
tion, where the summit has something of the character of a plateau, and
to the south also the elevation seems to be quite low. The streams that
flow from their eastern slopes are very numerous and water a fine
country along their base, while from the Western slopes scarcely a
stream flows that is worthy of the name, and the bordering country is a
barren waste.
The Sierra Shoshonee range sends off a light spur, half-way across
the basin, in the Owl Creek Mountains, whose line of direction is about
south 270 east from latitude 43° 40', longitude 109° 10', from whence
they run with an average elevation of about 8,250 feet as far as the Big
Horn River, attaining a maximum elevation of 9,136 feet in Phlox
Mountain. The foot-hills on the south are much more rugged than the
mountains themselves, showing many sharp ridges where the rocks are
tilted vertically, apparently in two directions, one parallel to the range
and the other making an approach to a right angle with it. Above these,
and on the north, the slopes are smoothly rounded and support a fine
growth of grass and sparse groves of aspen, hemlock, Spruce, and pine.
The summit is formed by ledges of the sedimentary rocks, arranged, in
a measure, alternately along the opposite sides of the axis-line.
The amount of water that is shed from the south slopes is extremely
small, while the north slopes are comparatively well watered. A strange
freak occurs at the western extremity of the range, where Owl Creek,
after taking its rise at the Washakee Needles, cuts through to the anti-
clinal axis of the Owl Creek range, which it follows for quite a distance
through a Wild precipitous caſion, from whence it emerges into the
plains seemingly from a source in this range, whereas its source is really
in the Sierra Shoshonee Range. The Sierra Shoshonee range is proba-
bly the most remarkable one in the great Rocky Mountain chain. The
original range, if there ever was one, and of this there are many indica-
tions, lies buried beneath an outpouring of material from the fluid inte-
rior of the earth, which it is safe to estimate as being now from 4,000
to 5,000 feet thick. This statement is warranted by the fact that the
section cut through by the Stinking Water Tiver shows only this vol-
canic material down to an elevation of 5,500 feet, While the peaks are
all over 10,000 feet, and many reach an elevation of over 12,000 feet, and
are composed entirely, so far as our observation went, of this material,
(except the Washakee Needles, which is granite.) It will be more appro-
priate to speak of it as a mountain mass, which extends from latitude
430 10' in a northerly direction, to 45° 10', with a general width of over
sixty miles in peaks that will certainly average over 10,000 feet in ele-
vation. The culminating points are at the Washakee Needles, near the
52 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTEW&N WWYOMING,
southeastern extremity, where the elevation is 12,253 feet, and in a
cluster of peaks, in latitude 45°, whose elevation is not known. Be-
tween these, however, there are probably quite a number of summits
that equal and, perhaps, exceed them in elevation.
It is doubtful whether any of the craters, from which this enormous
mass of once-fluid material escaped, have yet been discovered. There
are many appearances of volcanic cones, but a close examination will
probably show them to be simply peaks of erosion. This mountain mass
has been eroded to a remarkable extent, and the streams have cut their
channel into it accordingly in the most irregular manner. The Snake
cuts clear through from the West to the east side, and the Grey Bull and
Stinking Water on the east have their sources in the very Westernmost
Tim. Their valleys are simply huge caſions, except the usual park-like
Opening near their sources.
The mountain-slopes are covered with forests of coniferous trees,
wherever it is possible for trees to grow, and streams are very numerous.
Perhaps more water is shed from this mass of mountains than from any
of equal size in the Rocky Mountain chain.
There are no roads across the Sierra Shoshone range, and this expe-
dition is the first that ever crossed it, a feat that had been previously
considered very difficult, if not impossible. Three passes were found
across: one along the Ishawooa River to the head of Yellowstone Lake;
one by the North Fork of the Stinking Water to the foot of Yellowstone
Lake ; and one from the head of Clark’s Fork to the East Fork of the
Yellowstone. - -
The basin is divisible into, 1, the Wind River Basin; and 2, the Big
EIorn Basin.
1. The former is triangular in shape and traversed by the Wind River
and its tributaries. It is characterized by high benches, dropping off
by steep slopes to the river. Along the right bank of the river, as far
down as Bull Lake Fork, a great deal of bowlder drift occurs, and the
soil, away from the narrow bottoms along the streams, is quite rocky.
On the left bank there is not so much of this drift-soil, and it disappears
below Crow Heart Butte, a noted landmark in the valley, which seems to
have been left to point toward the amount of erosion that has taken
place. The favored portion of the valley is along the foot of the Wind
River Mountains, in the region watered by Wind River, below Crow
Heart Butte, Little Wind River, and the Popo-agies. The mountain-
slopes are clothed with grass, and the Valleys of these streams are quite
fertile and lie well for irrigation. North of Wind River the country is
generally rather barren.
2. The Big Horn Basin is generally barren, except the narrow belts
along the streams, the foot-hills of the Sierra Shoshonee and Owl Creek
Mountains, and the strip of country along the base of these mountains,
which is tolerably well watered, fertile, and clothed with grass. Except
along the streams, but little timber occurs. The general aspect of the
country is rugged, parched, and barren.
The Wind-Big Horn. Itiver rises in the angle between the Sierra Sho-
shone and the Wind River Mountains, in latitude 430 40', longitude
110°, and, with the name of Wind River, runs in a southwesterly direc-
tion for nearly the length of the Wind River Mountains, whence, round-
ing to the northward, making the “big bend,” it proceeds northerly to
its cañon through the Owl Creek Mountains; here it loses its first name
and is called, thenceforth, the Big Horn River, which flows northerly
to its caſion through the extremity of the Big Horn Mountains, and
thence to its junction with the Lower Yellowstone. The name “Big
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 53
Horn” comes from the Indian name for the mountain-sheep, which are
Quite numerous in the mountains about this basin. The Indians call
them “big horns.” It was the custom of early trappers to name local-
ities from such circumstances as the abundance of certain kinds of game,
trees, &c., in their vicinity. The principal tributaries, on the right, are
Campbell's Fork, Bull Lake Fork, Little Wind River and its tributa-
ries, the two Popo-agies and Beaver Creek from the Wind River Mount-
ains, and Bad Water Creek and No Wood Creek from the Big Born
Mountains. On the left, De Noir Fork, North Fork, and Dry Fork, from
the south slope of the Sierra Shoshonees; Muddy Creek from the south
slopes of the Owl Creek Mountains, and Owl Creek, Meeyer-o Creek,
Gooseberry Creek, Grey Bull River, and Stinking Water River, from
the Sierra Shoshonee.
A wagon-road, opened by James Bridger, leaves the old North Platte
road from Fort Laramie near Red Buttes, follows up Poison Spring
Creek, and thence across to the Big Horn River, which it follows up a
short distance and then strikes across the basin to Heart Mountain,
from whence it proceeds in a northwesterly direction to the settlements
in Montana. It traverses a very barren country, in which good water
is very scarce for a considerable portion of the distance.
THE YELLOWSTONE-TETON BASIN.
As the region here to be described is quite small, it is thought advis-
able to treat it as a whole, although it is traversed by the main divide
of the Rocky Mountains—here very low—and part of the divide between
the Upper Yellowstone and Missouri Rivers. It includes the Yellow-
stone National Park. It has the Sierra Shoshonee range on the north
and east, the Wyoming Mountains on the south, and the Tetons on the
southwest. All but the latter have been described. This range is
Quite short, and extends in a northerly direction between the parallels
of 430 30' and 44° 15', in longitude 1100 35'. A few peaks are quite
acicular in character, and attain in the Grand Teton and Mount Moran
the altitude of 13,835 and 12,800 feet respectively, as given by Profes-
sor Hayden. The figures are largely in excess of what the previous
estimates of these altitudes had been. This region is an elevated pla-
teau, lying about the sources of some of the principal rivers of the con-
tinent. It has a surface of high, rolling hills, covered with dense for-
ests, with many lakes, some quite large, about the sources of the
streams which lower down have cut very deep valleys.
The northwestern portion about the sources of the Gallatin and
Madison is mountainous, culminating in Mount Washburn, overlooking
the Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone at an elevation of 10,105 feet.
About 10 miles south of Yellowstone Lake is Mount Sheridan, a small
knob, with an elevation of 10,156 feet. The soil is quite rich, and vege-
tation flourishes, although there are indications of a severe climate.
At the foot of the Tetons, on the east, is a large, fertile valley called
Jackson's Hole. In the midst of it is Jackson's Lake, a considerable
body of water. The whole region is thoroughly well watered and is
notable for the quantity of timber which it carries on low-lying land.
Its greatest dimension is one hundred and four miles from north to
south, and there is an area of over five thousand square miles. South-
west from Yellowstone Lake is a cluster of small lakes—of Which the
largest is Shoshonee Lake—all at the sources of Snake River.
Yellowstone River rises in the Sierra Shoshonee range about fifty
miles above the lake, to which it flows in a north Westerly direction.
54 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
Shortly after leaving the latter it makes a fall of about 500 feet into its
Grand Calion, through which it flows in a curved line, emerging with
a northwesterly direction, and afterward makes a grand detour around
the northern extremity of the Sierra Shoshonee, from Whence it joins
the Missouri by an easterly and northeasterly course.
Within the limits of the region described, the only tributaries of
consequence are Pelican Creek and East Fork, on the right, flowing
from the Sierra Shoshonee.
Snake River rises along the Continental divide, between latitude
43° 50' and 44° 30', in a large number of streams that spread out like a
fan from a base at the foot of the Teton Mountains. The principal
ones are: 1st, Lewis Fork, rising in a series of lakes lying southwest
from Yellowstone Lake; 2d, Barlow's Fork, a tributary of the latter
from the east; 3d, Pacific Creek, rising near Two-Ocean Pass; 4th,
Buffalo Fork, rising far to the eastward, in the vicinity of the Washa-
kee Needles; and 5th, Gros Ventres Creek, rising near the head of Wind
River.
There are no roads traversing this basin. One from Fort Ellis leads
to the Great Hot Springs, just inside of its northern limit. -
INDIAN TRAILS.
The following are some of the important Indian trails traversing the
region visited by the expedition :
1. From Camp Brown, up Wind River Valley nearly to its head, and
across the divide to the Gros Ventres Fork of Snake River. Here it
forks, sending one branch down the stream as far as Jackson's Hole,
where it forks in turn, one portion leading down the Snake River to
Fort Hall, and the other, bending sharp around to the northeast, follows
up Pacific and down Atlantic Creeks to the Yellowstone River, down
which it follows, passing, to the east of Yellowstone Lake, to the Crow
country in Montana—a branch of it following Lewis Fork and the West
side of the lake and river; the other branch leaves the Gros Ventres
near its head, and, bending to the south, crosses a low pass in the
Wyoming Mountains to the headwaters of Green River, which it fol-
lows down to the open country and thence to Fort Bridger.
2. From Camp Brown to the North Fork of Wind River, which is fol-
lowed up, and two divides—one to the headwaters of Snake River—
crossed to reach the headwaters of Yellowstone River, which is fol-
lowed down to Yellowstone Lake, where it joins the trail previously
described. The divides crossed are extremely difficult.
3. From the “big bend " of Wind River along the left bank to Dry
Fork, which is followed up to its head, and a low divide crossed to the
headwaters of Owl Creek near the Washakee Needles, whence it passes
up this stream to its source, passing through a remarkably fine hunting-
ground for mountain-sheep. There is here one of those luxurious
mountain-parks which Nature seems occasionally to throw off in the Very
midst of her most forbidding works. Its existence would never be
suspected from without, as there is about it nothing but the most deso-
late and forbidding scenery, while Owl Creek, the natural approach,
after leaving it, flows for a long distance through a tremendous Caſion
along the very axis of the Owl Creek Mountains, from whence it emerges
into the plains, seemingly from a source near their summit; a higher
source would scarcely be suspected. This park bears many evidences of
having been used as a hiding-place. Our Indians knew nothing of it, and
yet there are all through it numerous trails, old lodge-poles, bleached
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 55
bones of game, and old camps of Cheyennes and Arapahoes. We may
expect to hear from it some day as a hiding-place for horse-thieves
and other marauders.
4. From Camp Brown northward over the Owl Creek Mountains, and
still further north to the buffalo-grounds of the Big Horn Valley and the
Stinking Water River, near Heart Mountain, thence up the North Fork of
that river and over the divide to the trail along Yellowstone Lake.
5. From the “big bend " of Wind River eastward along the northern
face of the Sweetwater Valley, by the head of Powder River to the Sioux
country east of the Big Horn Mountains.
6. From the “big bend " of Wind River northerly into the Big Horn
Valley.
7. From Camp Brown to the head of Wind River, thence through
Togwotee Pass, and northerly across the drainage of Snake River, strik-
ing at Pacific Creek, a previously-described trail from the Tetons to the
east side of Yellowstone Lake.
8. From the Wind River Valley across the Wind River Mountains,
above Union Peak, to the headwaters of Green River.
C E A P T E R III.
THE YELLOWSTONE ROUTE TO MONTANA,
A short route to the Yellowstone National Park.
The discovery of Togwotee Pass, at the head of Wind River, is preg.
nant with results to the future commerce of the West and Northwest, as
it discloses in all probability one of the principal highways that will in
the future bind their interests with those of the Mississippi Valley and
the Atlantic States.
One important object of the expedition was to discover, if possible, a
practicable approach to Yellowstone Lake from the south or southeast,
an approach Which would not only furnish the shortest route to the Yel-
lowstone National Park, now practically inaccessible, but would open a
new route to Montana by a wagon-road but little, if any, longer than the
present one from Corinne, Utah, that would save a considerable distance
by rail. In this it has met with a gratifying success.
In the first place, it was ascertained that there are three passes through
the Sierra Shoshonee affording approaches to the Yellowstone Basin
from the east. These are : 1st, from the head of Clark's Fork to the East
Fork of the Yellowstone; 2d, from the head of the North Fork of the
“Stinking Water, entering the basin opposite the foot of Yellowstone
Lake, (the route of the expedition;), 3d, from the head of the Ishawooa
River, entering the basin opposite the head of Yellowstone Lake. These
passes aer all difficult.
Also one at the head of Wind River, a little southeast from Yellow-
stone Lake, which affords a perfectly practicable passage to the Yellow-
stone Valley, via Wind River Valley and the head of Wind River. I
have named it. Togwotee Pass, preferring to attach easy Indian names,
wherever possible, to the prominent features of the country. It lies in
latitude 43° 46' 29', longitude 110° 1', and has an altitude of 9,621 feet
above the sea. Not Withstanding this altitude the slopes approaching
the summit so long and regular that a railroad could be built over it at
a reasonable COSt.
At present there are two routes to Montana, over which theinterchange
56 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WY OMING.
of products between that Territory and the East is carried on, and gov-
ernment supplies shipped to the military posts and the Indians in that
country. These are: 1st, the Missouri River route, by which supplies
are carried by steamboat as far as Fort Benton, Montana, and from
thence distributed through the Territory by Wagons; and, 2d, the Union
Pacific Railroad route, over which supplies are carried by rail as far as
Corinne, Utah, and from thence northward, by Wagons, to Idaho and
Montana. In the Government's freighting contracts of 1873, the rates
from Fort Benton to points in the Territory, and from Corinne to the
same points, are exactly the same. Of course, So far as rates are con-
cerned, the land-route cannot compete with the Water-route ; but the
river-route is only open during a few months of the year, and during the
remainder of the time the land-route is not brought into competition
with it. Furthermore, during the season that the river is open, its
navigability is far from being certain and reliable at all times; so that
shipments over it are detained a very long and wholly uncertain length
of time in transitu. As the business of the country is now conducted,
men can ill afford to have their money lying idle for months, or weeks,
or even days, locked up in goods in transitu. Every day saved on
goods, of whatever character, is the equivalent of money gained. It is
this element of time and its money equivalent that underlies the astound-
ing success of railroads as competitors with Water-lines of traffic—suc-
cess through which the steamboat is disappearing from our rivers; suc-
cess that is proving to us that there is no such thing as slow freight;
that men want some kinds of freight shipped faster than others, but that
there is none they want shipped in a slow and unreliable manner.
These considerations are so potent that, were a railroad constructed
to Montana from some point on the Union Pacific Railroad, it would, in
all probability, be followed by virtual disappearance of steamboat-traffic
from the Missouri River; and it is by no means improbable that the
great saving in distance effected by the new Yellowstone route will, even
without any more railroad, enable the land-route to compete successfully
with that via the Missouri. In all events, the proposed route is fraught
with benefit to the people of Montana, through the bringing of the rival
lines into a closer competition.
The present land-route leaves the Central Pacific Railroad at Corinne,
Utah, and runs in a northerly direction through Idaho to Montana,
crossing the Bannack Mountains on the divide between the Snake and
Missouri Rivers. The distance from Corinne to Fort Ellis, Montana, is
four hundred and three miles. The proposed road should leave the
Union Pacific Railroad in the vicinity of Point of Rocks, Wyoming, and
run about north into the Wind River Valley; thence following up that
valley to its head, and through Togwotee Pass, northerly, to Yellow-
stone Lake, and through the Yellowstone National Park to Fort Ellis.
This route would pass directly by all of the principal phenomena of the
park—except the geysers, which could easily be reached by a short side-
road. By it, the distance from Point of Rocks to Yellowstone Lake is
two hundred and eighty-nine miles, and to Fort Ellis four hundred and
thirty-seven miles,
COMPARATIVE TAJ3 LIE OF DISTANCES.
Omaha, Neb., to Corinne, Utah - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 1,055 miles.
Omaha, Neb., to Point of Rocks, Wyo. --------------------------------- . 805 “
Distance saved by rail------------------------------------------------- . 250 “
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 57
Omaha, Neb., to Yellowstone Lake.
Omaha to Corinne------------------------------------------- 1,055 miles.
Corinne to Fort Ellis, Mont. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - •re º is as sº as ºs as we gº 403 “
Fort Ellis to Yellowstone Lake. ----------------------------- 118 “
Omaha to Yellowstone Lake, (present route) - - - - - - - - - - - * * * * * * * 1, 576 miles.
Omaha to Point of Rocks------------------------------------ 805 ($
Point of Rocks to Yellowstone Lake.------------------------. 289 “
Omaha to Yellowstone Lake, (proposed route).------...--------- 1,094 *
Proposed route shortens distance to Yellowstone Lake- - - - - - - - - 4S2 “
Omaha, Neb., to Fort Ellis and Bozeman, Mont.
Omaha to Corinne------------------------------------------- 1,055 miles.
Corinne to Fort Ellis.--------------------------------------- 403 “
Omaha to Fort Ellis, (present route).----...----------. ---------- 1, 458 miles.
Omaha to Point of Rocks------------------------------------ S05 “
Point of Rocks to Fort Ellis---. ------------------------------ 437 “
Omaha to Fort Ellis, (proposed route).------------- - - - - - - - - - - 1,242 “
Proposed route shortens distance to Fort Ellis - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 216 “
It is fair to presume that the freight and passenger rates will be about
the same over the proposed as they are over the present route, as the
distances are nearly the same. A reasonable comparison between these
rates can therefore be made from the following table, showing those
paid by the Government to the Union Pacific Railroad.
TABLE OF RATES.
Transportation of persons—(amount for each persoa.)
Omaha to Corinne - - - - - - - - - - ... * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * g º ºs º gº * sº sº gº º sº º ºs s sº $79 25
Omaha to Point of Rocks -------------------------------------------------- 57 25
Amount per man saved by the proposed route. ---. ----...-------. --- - - - - - - - - - - 22 00
TRANSPORTATION OF FIREIG [IT.—THIRD CLASS.*
(4 cents per ton per mile.)
Omaha to Corinne, (1,055 miles,) per ton . -----...--------. -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $42 20
Omaha to Point of Rocks, (S05 miles,) per ton - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 32 20
Amount per ton Saved by the proposed route. ----- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 10 00
SHIPMENTs of FREIGHT TO MONTANA.
Shipments to Montana via Union Pacific Railroad.
Years. Amount,
1869------------------------------------------------------------ 1, 125,960 pounds.
1870------------------------------------------------------------ 6, 896, 723 pounds
1871------------------------------------------------------------ 7, 501,280 pounds,
1873------------------------------------------------------. - - - - - 6, 129,644 pounds.
1873------------------------------------------ 3 * * * * * * * * * (about) 6,000,000 pounds.
Shipments from Saint Louis to Montana, via all routes
Years. Amount,
1871----------------------------------------------------------- 13,000,000 pounds.
1573----------------------------------------------------------- 10,000,000 pounds.
1873----------------------------------------------------------- 6,000, 000 pounds.
* Based upon present rates of Union Pacific Railroad from Omaha to Ogden.
5S RECONN AISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
The proposed route will not be blocked by snow so much as the pres-
ent one, as the snow-belt lies in a heavily-timbered country, in which
the snow will not drift much. This will include a distance of fully one
hundred and fifty miles north from Wind River Valley. It will open
up a body of 2,000,000 acres of timber-land, well watered, and with a
rich soil. Observations thus far indicate that this is a region of equable
precipitation of rain, and that irrigation will not be necessary in culti-
Vating the soil. There is considerable frost even during the summer,
but in spite of it the vegetation is always quite luxuriant.
There is good reason for believing that the Yellowstone National Park
will, in time, become the most popular summer-resort in the country,
perhaps the World. This, of itself, is a sufficient reason for opening
the Way to it at once. *
To sum up, the proposed route will save two hundred and fifty miles
of distance by railroad ; four hundred and eighty-two miles in reaching
Yellowstone Lake, and two hundred and sixteen miles in reaching the
principal cities of Montana; is a direct route to the Yellowstone National
Park, which at present is practically inaccessible, and will eventually
be the shortest railroad line to Montana; it opens up a very large tract
of low-lying timber-land, a feature of rare occurrence in the great Rocky
Mountain plateau; it will open up to settlement the Wind River Valley,
the Teton Basin, and the valley of the Upper Yellowstone ; and, finally,
will throw open the Yellowstone National Park to the wonder-seekers
of the World.
C H A P T E R IV.
METEOROLOGY.
Instruments—Climate of Green River, Big Horn, and Yellowstone—Teton basins—
Probable region of equable precipitation of rain—Table of altitudes—Table of
Weather-observations.
Observations were taken with barometers, (two cistern and three
Small aneroids,) thermometers, hygrometer, maximum and minimum
thermometers, and Solar and terrestrial radiation-thermometers. In all
possible cases, the temperature of Springs, including thermal springs,
was taken. The temperature of the latter will be treated in the report
of Dr. C. L. Heizmann, assistant-surgeon U. S. A. Observations were
generally taken by Mr. J. D. Putnam, under the direction of Dr. C.
C. Parry, and are, in my opinion, thoroughly reliable. Mr. Putnam
deserves special mention for having carried cistern-barometer No. 1972
(Green) the round trip, frequently in very difficult mountain climbing
and marching, Without getting it injured in any manner that could affect
the reliability of its readings. The terrestrial radiation thermometer
was unfortunately broken on the march to Camp Brown. The minimum-
thermometer Was also broken, but afterward observations were taken to
get the minimum just before sunrise, which I think can safely be relied
on. Observations for maximum are not so numerous as I wished to
have them, because the Column was generally on the march at that
period of the day when it usually occurs. All altitudes are deduced
from readings of the cistern barometer.
A careful comparison of the aneroids with a cistern, (1972,) in the
office and on the march from Fort Bridger to Camp Brown, in all the
circumstances of rapid and wide variations of temperature incident to
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 59
hypsometrical observations, led me to look with suspicion upon their
reliability. In bringing them down from great elevations, they require
a long and erratic period of time for returning to their normal indica-
tions, while in going up they indicate the decrease of pressure too rap-
idly, thus leading to the excessive altitudes usually resulting from their
use. It would seem as though the corrugated metallic box offers less
resistance to expansion than compression, and that at high altitudes it
is likely to take a set, thus preventing a complete return to the shape
which it held at the lower level. Furthermore, where the diurnal vari-
ations of temperature are very wide, these aneroids, although compen-
sated, were visibly affected by heat, and there is nothing to show to
what extent. The result of office-comparisons is given below in Tables
I, II, and III.
COMPARISON OF BAROMIETE I?.S.
TABLE I.
Omaha, Neb., altitude--------------------------------------------------- 1,000 feet-
Error of cistern-barometer No. 1972. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +0.005
Error of cistern-barometer No. 1854------------...------------------------ —0. 042
Cupillarity ------------------------------------------------------------ +0.004
Mean of 44 comparisons with 1972. ---------...- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - — 0.038
Fort Bridger, Wyo., altitude ---------------- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - * * * * * * * * * * * * 6, 639 feet.
Error of cistern-barometer, (1854.)-------. ------------------------, ------
Mean of 14 comparisons------------------------------------------------- —0.039
Probable constant error of No. 1854 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - —0, 038
TABLE II.
Ameroids.”
Omaha, Neb., elevation------------------------------------------------- 1,000 feet.
Error of aneroid No. 1, (mean from 34 readings). - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - —0. 118
Error of aneroid No. 2, (mean from 34 readings) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - —0.043
Error of aneroid No. 3, (mean from 34 readings).------------------------- +0.034
TABLE III.
_{neroids.”
Fort Bridger, Wyo., altitude. ------------. ---------------------- * * * * * * * * 6, 639 feet.
Error of aneroid No. 1.-- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +0. 524
Mean from 23 comparisons-- { Error of aneroid No. 2.- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +0.667
Error of aneroid No. 3.------------------- +0.646
Ş Error of aneroid No. 1..................... +0.632
Mean from 115 comparisons. { Error of aneroid No. 2 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +0.818
Error of aneroid No. 3.- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +0.72S
N. B.-These aneroids were compensated.
On the 16th of May I sent Mr. Putnam to Fort Bridger with all the
barometers and other necessary instruments for making (before the ex-
pedition took the field) a thorough comparison of their readings. This
he did very faithfully, and the result showed that my aneroids were not
reliable, although I still hoped to use them for special trips, by compar-
ing them immediately before leaving and at once after returning to
camp. It soon appeared, however, that they were not fit even for this.
The aneroid is a good Weather-glass, but is hardly fit for hypsometrical
work; this is a great pity, for there is great merit in its portability
where mountains are to be climbed, and in its non-liability to breakage.
* Compared with No. 1972, (cistern,) at 33° Falurembeit,
60 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
On the march from Fort Bridger the mercury in cistern-barometer
1854 leaked a little through the bag. The oxidation of this mercury
between the threads of the elevating-screw soon clogged it, so that it
could not be turned without great difficulty. Mr. C. T. Creary, who
was carrying it, very ingeniously remedied the difficulty by making a
Wooden Screw to work in its place: This answered the purpose admira-
ably until we arrived at Camp Stambaugh, when he made a new screw
of iron, that answered its purpose during the rest of the trip.
The leakage was caused by attempting to screw up the mercury until it
filled the tube, in putting it up for transportation. This brings too much
pressure on the bag of the cistern, and the mercury is crowded through
it. It should only be screwed up until the cistern is full. The small
motion in the mecurial column that is thus permitted does not endanger
the instrument so much as the leakage when it is screwed up too tight.
Works on meteorology do not call sufficient attention to this point, but
rather convey the idea, if they do not positively direct, that the tube
should be filled. The Smithsonian directions for meteorological obser-
Vations, under the head of Barometer, say, page 17: “If circumstances
compel this (moving) to be done, we should begin, before taking it from
its place, by raising the mercury in the cistern by means of the screw
so as to fill the cistern and the tube.” Now, for transportation in the
field, when at high altitudes, a comparatively large portion of the mer-
cury gets into the cistern. This will not do at all, and, indeed, I should
not think it advisable ever to screw up the mercury more than enough
to fill the cistern. t
In comparing these barometers, my attention has been particularly
called to the unsatisfactory manner in which the attached thermometer
registers the temperature of the mercury in the tube. Its bulb is placed
in a small metallic case fastened to the outside of the brass frame of
the barometer, which has a small hole sometimes cut in it opposite the
bulb. It makes but little difference whether the hole is cut or not ; the
thermometer registers the temperature of a small inclosed space that
receives the impress of increments or decrements of heat, somewhat
less rapidly than the air outside, and the whole would make no sensible
change in the readings. But the column of mercury is very slow to
receive impressions of heat, and yet it is the temperature of this mer-
cury that we must have in order to proceed with certainty to a common
point of comparison for all observations. Here is undoubtedly the real-
son why no satisfactory results can be obtained in the comparison
between two barometers. The true difference can only appear from the
mean of a good many observations. In hypsometrical work this must
be the cause of serious error, and when it is remedied the barometer
will indeed be a remarkable leveling instrument.
Through the courtesy of the Chief Signal-Officer of the Army I have
obtained the barometer-readings at Cheyenne, Corinne, and Fort Benton
for the period covered by our trip. They have been plotted, and the re.
sults are shown in the accompanying chart. From these I was enabled
to refer Camp Brown, our field-base, to Salt Lake City, at a time when
the whole region was equally affected by barometric disturbance, thus in-
suring excellent altitude results, as an examination of the table of altitudes
Will show. TO instance this I will call attention to the altitudes of Yel-
lowstone Lake. We camped upon its shore five times, making almost
the circuit around it. Iły leaving out one observation, that was not made
at a proper time in the day for nice work, as the others were, it will be
seen that the results compare quite closely. The mean of these gives
7,564 feet for the altitude of the lake, which, there is good reason for
.APPRO.Y’I./M.ATE HOR.A. R. Y B./1 ROMETRIC C UR WES.
(&m/p S/a/e/aug/.
Inches A.
.O.35
.030
.025
. () 20
.015
... O IO
.005
,000
, 0.05
, Ol 0
. OI 5
.0%0
.025
.030
.O.35
.O4.0
Inches /37' owzz.
.035
. O30
. 02:5
.020
... O 15
... O 10
. 0.05
.000
,005
. OT 0
... O I5
. 020
, 0.25
.039
, 0.35
,040
Yellowstone Zake.
Inches
.O2O
, Ol;
... O I 0.
.O.O;
,000
.005
... O IO
,OI 3
.020
Camp Stambaugh elevation 7767 feet, Lat, #2° 30', Long. 108° 48'.
4 4
Brown, “ 5/98 “ “ /9° 59', ‘ 108° 54.
Yellowstone Lake & 4 756/ ‘’ * / 35, 110° 22.



RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 61
believing, is a fair approximation. I am somewhat specific on this
point, because these figures differ so widely from those obtained by
Professor Hayden, who, in 1871, finds this altitude to be 7,427 feet, and
in 1872 finds it 7,788.
At Fort Bridger, Camp Brown, and the outlet of the Yellowstone
Lake, I had hourly observations taken, for the purpose of getting an
approximate horary curve for each. The results are given in the an-
nexed chart, and will be of much interest.
The barometric readings at Corinne, Fort Benton, and Cheyenne,
show that over the field embraced by the reconnaissance, the abnormal
barometric oscillation was very nearly uniform. The computations for
altitude were made by Lieut. S. E. Blunt, Thirteenth United States In-
fantry.
G-REEN RIVER BASIN.
In the Green River Basin the diurnal temperature varies between
pretty wide limits. This is largely owing to the extreme dryness of the
atmosphere, which leaves almost nothing interposed to interfere with
the radiation from the sun and earth. The relative humidity is very
low, and dew and frost are quite rare. Rain seldom falls. The amount
of solar radiation, as will be seen from the observations, is large, and
the same causes that produce it Will also probably produce a corre-
spondingly large terrestrial radiation; all this indicates a severe climate.
The winds, with remarkable unanimity, are from the southwest and
west, and the quantity of motion is great; a gale of Wind can be confi.
dently expected every day, commencing a little before noon. The natu-
ral tendency of the Winds to come from the southwest over this re-
gion, is augmented by the local configuration of the ground. The west
end of this basin is a cul-de-sac, With high mountains nearly surround-
ing it—the Uintahs on the south, the Wahsatch on the west, and the
Wind River range on the north. The annexed sketch will illustrate it,
(Fig. 8.) -
Çe
$. tº T- \º:
il, # S x----- § - §
§ 2%. Nº. | N >} . . . t \S
*. S : Lºr ** §§§ - ------------ -—s;
| < | <n \º * §§ sº Yºs S. S
| | g §§§ §: $SS - *><s * – ==
* §§§§ > Şs
R xº~ & §§ *
| §§§ Ö Nº. =--
*Nºx * - s=
4 *~ zf ºf). s
& —- *=
i } S->
i = *
~
k * = H
S-—- 3. §
|\s S& ‘’. <st- §
<> | sº fe t
| !--- ~~~$ r
| N <- K Šºš
- - - - --- «. > * *::
| Ys ! ā-sº
*SA' , N}) N\}, s , i. t § i-º-º: º:
§:, , º, \", \S 2. lºº-ºº:
#8&sº ſº d.º.S.: | z- ºs-
| | | S W ſº, W - *
s jºy . W. "|\, 'W A —cº s 5;
> || || Ni----~ : º3: *
^ = *, * * = • - - - - sº * * * § - * SS , , W, A fº
* S$ & -ºš
,& \\}; l Al '' suit) § §§ § *
* l § wº, \\ \ * | SW { * ! ', § \\? s º }\ | ? W
\\ i , \ J §§§§º ſº. Sº "
& 2\jiùWººlwº- tº
X- >. -16
tº 3. | |
SJ
R. J | | | }. | §
*—- § § &
FIG. S.—Explanation of Winds in Green River Basin.
The air over the plateau becomes inordinately heated from radiation,
while the cold air from the mountains rushes in to take its place, as it
rises, and restore the equilibrium. The resultant motion thus produced













62 RECONN AISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
is in a northwesterly direction, and as this is about the mean direction
of the general currents of the air in this latitude, it Will be seen that the
different causes that tend to set the air in motion mutually re-enforce
each other, producing the high Winds that are such a Well-known fea-
ture of the climate.
There are times when this local disturbance must be excessive, and
perhaps we may look here for the origin, or at least a clew to it, of the
storms that sweep across the continent to the east Ward, and spend their
fury on the Atlantic Ocean.
Local storms and squalls from the mountains sometimes descend a
short distance into this basin, but generally clouds are rare, except the
low fringe of cumuli on the horizon, that is so characteristic of fine
Weather.
WWIND RIVER, BASIN.
Fig. 9.
44 °
_> * -
º
2 * W
fl'ſ
2. §s .*
* --> > * * Sz.
%, .º. WSºft 'ºïSs
ſ | ,'!
''
140° Zoo” 108"
Explanation of Winds in Wind River Basin.
The climate here is comparatively mild. The diurnal temperature
has not such a great range as on the other side of the Wind River range,
although in Summer the air gets exceedingly warm about mid-day. The
Solar radiation is still very great, but terrestrial radiation is smaller, as
the nights are warm. The relative humidity is also extremely low, caus-



RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 63
ing a rarity of dew and frost. The mountains lying so close around, a
slight rain-fall is caused by the summer showers from them, but the
quantity of water that falls is very small. The general prevailing winds
are entirely intercepted by the mountains, but the local disturbance
caused by the air getting highly heated over the Valley, and the rush of
the cold air from the mountains to establish an equilibrium, is very great,
causing daily currents of such strength and persistence as to give origin
to the name of the river and mountains. This action is illustrated in the
annexed sketch, (Fig. 9.)
THE BIG. HORN BASIN.
The climate here is probably quite similar to that of the Wind River
Valley; as far as our observations go such are the indications. There
is the same and perhaps a somewhat greater cause for violent winds.
The Indians repeatedly called my attention to the fact that it was very
windy here, even more so than in the Wind River Valley. This is suf-
ficiently accounted for by the fact that the mountains are very extensive,
and the country at their feet and across to the Big Horn Range is
mostly bare soil and rock, capable of becoming very strongly heated
under the effects of the great solar radiation.
Away from the western face of the basin where the summer-squalls
hang down from the edge of the mountains, the region is probably
largely exempt from rain. This is further indicated by the fact that an
extremely small quantity of water is drained from the western slopes of
the Big Horn Mountains. The streams are of rare occurrence, and are
frequently dry. On account of the scarcity of water, travel in the
lower part of this basin, and more especially along its eastern face, is
attended With much inconvenience.
UPPER YELLOWSTONE-TETON BASIN.
These two basins, although on opposite sides of the main divide of
the Rocky Mountains, are yet subject to the same climatic influences;
for this divide is so low between them as to lose its mountainous char-
acter almost entirely. This is supplied by the Sierra Shoshonee range
which borders them on the east, the Wyoming Mountains to the south,
and the Tetons which lie to the West.
This region is also characterized by wide extremes of diurnal tempera-
ture, although the day temperature is generally rather low, making an
agreeable summer climate. The freezing-point seems to obtain quite
commonly just before sunrise; and late in August, different parties, in
three consecutive years, have hoted at this time of the day such very nota-
ble temperatures as 149 F., 130 F., and 122 F. The nights are extremely
cold as a rule. An approximation to the mean annual temperature ob-
tained from the temperatures of some springs east of Yellowstone Lake,
and one between the lake and the falls, is 579.5 F.
The relative humidity is remarkably high for the Rocky Mountain
region, which is so generally characterized by the small proportion of
aquous vapor in its atmosphere; as a natural attendant upon this ex-
ceptional feature, the whole region is densely timbered. -
There is ample evidence of a moderately copious rain-fall in and
around this basin, especially about the headwaters of Snake River, the
vegetation is always fresh and tolerably luxuriant; the country is amply
Supplied with Water in marsh, Spring, stream, pond, and lake, and the
meteorological records of parties who have visited it for three years in
\
64 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
succession point clearly to it. We had several rainy days while travers-
ing it, days in which the rain fell almost continuously during the night
and day. This is a notable fact.
It is probably a region of severe storms; for an inspection of a gen-
eral map, together with the annexed sketch, shows that the principal
N sº
WY
43
Yellowstone–Teton Basin.
southwest air-current, moving over a low portion of the mountain maSS
of the Pacific Coast, reaches the Teton’s and Sierra Shoshonee range
without being deprived of much of its vapor. It is not only checked
in its course by this high, cool wall, but the tremendous acicular ridge
of the Tetons stands in such a position as to produce a strong eddy
about the head Waters of the Snake and over the lake basin.
The equable precipitation favors the growth of forest and rank Vegeta-
tion, while the latter stores up the water, to be constantly vaporized and
held ready for reprecipitation, the cause and effect each favorably act-
ing upon the other. The indications are that this region along the
western base of the Sierra Shoshone Mountains,” and lying between
* I use the word “mountains” in connection with sierra in deference to the custom
of considering them words of different shades of meaning. To the majority of English-
speaking people mountain is the only word that completely covers the idea involved.

RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN wyoming.
65
the parallels of 43° 30' and 45° 30' north latitude, is one of equable
precipitation. The severity of the summer frosts, however, will prevent
any extensive tillage of the soil, which, by the way, is a rich black
loam. The prevailing winds are westerly, and mild in their character.
Table of altitudes.
All observations with mercurial barometer.

H. Ex. 285 5
Place. Altitude.
Feet.
Fort Bridger ----------------------------------------------------------- 6639. 0
Camp No. 3.----. ------------------------------------------------------. 6308. 3
Camp No. 5------------------------------------------------------------- 6314.9
Camp No. 6.------------------------------------------------------------ 6210. 2
Camp No. 8--------------------------------------------- * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 6257. 0
Camp No. 9------------------------------------------------------------- 6569.2
Divide between Big Sandy and Little Sandy-- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 6685. 6
Camp No. 10------------------------------------------------------------ 6657.6
Camp No. 11------------------------------------------------------------ 6742, 6
Camp No. 12----------------------------------------------- ------------ 7134. 0
Summit of South Pass.--------------------------- as º ºs º ºs º ºs ºs e º sº gº sº me ºn s is sº me a s = as s 7480. 0
Camp No. 13------------------ ----------------------------------------- 7400. 2
Camp Stambaugh ------------------------------------------------------- 7767. 1
Triangulation Station. No 43--------------------------------------------. 8267. 1
Camp No. 15.-----------------------------------------------------------. 6937. 3
Bench at head of Red Cañon --------------------------------------------- 6848. 0
Camp No. 16------------------------------------------------------------ 5407. 1
Ranch on Big Popo Agie, (old Camp Brown).----------------------------- 5311. 0
Camp No. 17------------------------------------------------------------ 5447. 3
Camp Brown ---------------------------------, ----------------------. 549S. 4
From Camp Brown to Wind River Mountains :
Foot of first hill---------------------------------------------------- 6600. 0
Top of first hill------------------------- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 8034. 0
Top of second hill--------------------------------------------------. 8857, 0
Summit of Bald Mountain. ----------------------------------------. 9897. 4
Timber-line -------------------------------------------------------- 10760, 0
Summit of Chimney Rock---------------. ----------------. ----------| 11853.0
Camp No. 20-------------- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 5792, 7
Divide Sage Creek and Wind River-------------------------------------. 6096, 5
Camp No. 21.----------------------------------------------------------- 5553. 1
Camp No. 22, (across the river from Camp 21) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 5556, 5
Camp No. 23------------------------------------------------------------ 6140, 2
Camp No. 24-----------------------------------------------------------. 6320, 0
Camp No. 25------------------------------------------------------------ 6208, 0
Pass over Owl Creek Mountains.----, ---------------------------------- 7836. 0
Summit east of pass ---------------------------------------------------- 8233, 0
Summit of Phlox Mountain --------------------------------------------- 9136. ()
Camp No. 26.----------------------------------------------- .* = * * * * * * * * = - 6168. 1
Camp on headwaters of Owl Creek -----------------. -----. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 8610. 0
Timber-line on the Washakee Needles-------...----------- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 10683, 0
Summit of the Washakee Needles.---------------------------------...---. 12253, 0
Last divide before Camp No. 27------------------------------------------ 7074. 7
Camp No.27------------------------------------------------------------ 6471. 0
Hill south of Camp No. 27.---------------------------------------------- 6783. 0
Camp No. 28------------------------------------------------------------ 6120, 8
Camp No. 29.----------------------------------------------------------- 5780, 0
Camp No. 30. ----------------------------------------------------------- 61.66, 4
Spur from the mountains------------------------------------------------ 8607, 1
Camp No. 31------------------------------------------------------------ 7423. 0
Camp No. 32------------------------------------------------------------ 5273. 2
Camp No. 33.------------------------------------------------------------ 5845, 0
Camp No. 34.----------------------------------------------------------. 6041, 6
Ridge S. S. W. from Camp 34, 1st point.--------------------------------- 7203. 0
Ridge S. S. W. from Camp 34, 2d point.------------------------...--.... . 7284. 0
66 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
Table of altitudes—Continued.
Altitude.
Place.
Ridge S. S. W. from Camp 34, 3d point - - - - - -----------------------------. 8062. 0
Camp No. 35.----------------------------------------------------------- 6318.7
Camp No. 36-------------------------------------------, ---------------- 6683. 0
Summit of Sailor Mountain ---------------------------------------------- 10046.0
Timber-line on Sailor Mountain ----------------------------------------- 9746. 0
Stinking-Water Pass ---------------------------------------------------- 9444, 3
First triangulation-point north of pass----------------------------------- 9938. 1
Second triangulation-point north of pass--------------------------------- 10027. 9
Camp No. 37------------------------------------------------------------ 8940. 0
Yellowstone Lake, (at outlet) ------------------------------------------- 7564. 0
Camp No. 39------------------------------------------------------------ 7491.8
Height of Upper Falls of the Yellowstone- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -. 150. 2
Height of Great Falls of the Yellowstone. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 328, 7
Camp No. 40-------------------------- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 7908. 0
Camp No. 41----------------------------------- ºr e = • * * * * * * * * * * * * = • = • * ~ * ~ * 5762. 1
Jack Baronett's cabin --------------------------------------------------- 5741, 5
Yellowstone River at bridge--------------------------------------------. 5695. 0
Camp No. 42-----------------------------------------------------------. 5813.7
Summit of Mount Washburne ---------------------------------------- - - 10105.3
Camp No. 43------------------------------------------------------------ 7724. 0
Camp No. 44------------------------------------------------------------ 8985. 8
Camp No. 45-------------------------. ---------------------------------- 7132.4
Camp No. 46----------------------------------------------------------- 7373.3
Camp No. 47 ------------------------------------------------------------ 8301.7
Camp No. 48, (Yellowstone Lake).---------------------------------------- 7565. 9
Camp No. 49, (Yellowstone Lake).---------------------------------...----- 7564. 0
Camp No. 50, (Yellowstone Lake).-----------------. ---------------------- 7552. 3
Camp No. 51, (Yellowstone Lake).---------------------------------------- 7563. 1
Yellowstone Lake, (mean adopted) -------------------------------------- 7564. 0
Summit of Mount Sheridan--------------------------------...-------------| 10150.0
Camp No. 52------------------------------------------------------------ 7787.7
Camp No. 63------------------------------------------------------------ 7847.7
Camp No. 54------------------------------------------------------------ 8080. 9
Camp No. 56------------------------------------------------------------ 7574. 6
Camp No. 56-------------------------- * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * = s. sº gº sº * * * * * * 6892. 4 ,
Hill above Camp 56, (crossed by trail) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 6892. 4
Camp No. 57 ------------------------------------------------------------ 8917. 4
Togwotee Pass --------------------------------------------------------- 9621. 3
Mountain S. W. of pass------------------------------------------------. 10625. 4
Camp No. 58------------------------------------------------------------ 7498. 2
Camp No. 59-------------------------- --------------------------------- 6942. 0
Camp No. 60.----------------------------------------------------------- 6172.
Camp No. 61------------------------------------------------------------ 5750. 1
‘’amp No. 62, (Camp No. 20)--------------------------------------------- 5799. 6
*
TABLE I.— Meteorological record of Northwest Wyoming Daºpedition from May 19 to September 13, 1873.
5 § CLOUDS, WIND.
# * | 3 &
# | – # – # º
Station. # F # | ## É É E § Pemarks.
- à || 5 § 5 & , º • E. •º d;
q) O C : 3 3 = rº --> rº C 3 SX
†: à 3 || 3 || 5 Ł 35 É 8 .: Š
Q #: § | 3 || | | | E | * <q ſº R
Fort Bridger, (elevation 6,639')....| May 19 || 9 0 a.m. || 23.400 + 43 |...--- 44, 5 39.5 ------------------------------ * * * * : - - - - - - * * * * - - - - - - - - - -] Rain.
10 0 a.m. || 23. 400 || 44 | . . . . . . 44 39.5 | Cumulus..... --------------- 2 ---------------, - - - -] Rain.
12 0 m. . . . . 23. 390 || 45 . . . . . . 45 39 Cumulus. . . . .--------------. 5 |---------------. * * * *
1 0 p.m. || 23. 390 || 48 |...... 47. 5 41 Cumulo-stratus ... -- - - - - - - - - - 9 ---------------. * * * *
2 0 p.m. || 23.410 || 48 |. ----. 47 39 Cumulo-stratus. ------------ 8 || --------------- tº me - -
4 0 p.m. || 23.426 47 . . . . . . 46 38 Stratus ... . . . . * - - - - - - - - - - - - - 6 || --------------- * * * *
6 0 p.m. || 23, 460 44 . . . . . . 46 37 Cumulus.------------------. 1 ---------------. * * * *
May 20 | 8 0 a.m. || 23, 480 | 40 |...... 41.5 ! 35.5 Cumulus. -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 1 ---------------. * * * *
9 0 a.m. || 23. 476 44.5 | . . . . . . 44 38 Cumulus.--------------. . . . . 1 |---------------- * * * *
z. 10 0 a.m. || 23. 475 || 47 l. - - - - - 47 39 Cumulus. ------------------. 5 |.-------------- * * * *
11 0 a. m. 23, 470 || 48 - - - - - - 47 39 Cumulus.------------------. 7 || --------------- - - - -
1 0 p.m. || 23. 443 51 |... . . . 51 42 Cumulus.------------------- 6 ---------------- * * * *
2 0 p.m. || 23.415 || 56 |. ---.. 53 43 Cumulus.------------------- 6 ---------------. * * * *
3 0 p.m. || 23.404 || 56 |...... 55 45 Cumulus.--------------...--. 5 ---------------. - - - -
4 0 p.m. || 23. 371 57 |. . . . . . 56 45 Cumulus.--------------, ---. 4 I.--------------. * * * *
5 0 p.m. || 23. 332 55 . . . . . . 54 43 Nimbus.-------------------. 10 ---------------. * * * *
-- 6 0 p.m. || 23, 332 52 |... --- 52 43.5 ! Nimbus.--------------. . . . . . 10 ---------------. - - - - Light rain.
May 21 || 8 0 a.m. || 23. 340 37 . . . . . . 38, 5 || 34 Cumulus.------------------- 2 |.--------------. --...] Snow.
9 0 a.m. || 23. 320 38 . . . . . . 38.5 || 34 Cumulus. ------------------. 4 ---------------. - * * *
10 0 a.m. || 23. 320 39 . . . . . . 39 35 Cumulus.------------------. 1 ---------------. - - - -
12 0 ml . . . . 23, 313 | 40 |. - - - - - 40 35 Cumulus.------------------- 1 |---------------- • * * *
2 0 p.m. || 23, 356 45 |...... 43 36, 5 Cumulus.----------. . . . . . . . . 8 |---------------- * * * *
4 0 p.m. || 23. 358 || 41 |. . . . . . 4° 37 ------------------------------|----|---------------...--
May 22 || 10 0 a.m. || 23.480 || 48 |. . . . . . 49.5 43 Cumulus.------------------. 1 |---------------. * * * *
11 0 a. m. 23. 472 47 l. - - - - - 4) 43 Cumulus. --...--------------- 1 |---------------. * * * *
12 0 m. . . . . 23.461 49 |- - - - - - 49 43 Cumulus.-----------------. 2 --------------. * * * *
3 0 p.m. || 23, 440 53.5 |... . . . 54 47 Cumulo-stratus . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 | North . . . . . . . . 2
4 0 p.m. || 23.438 53 |. . . . . . 54 46 Cumulus. ------------------- 9 |.--------------- * * * *
5 0 p.m. || 23, 423 53 |...... 53, 5 || 43.5 Cumulus. . . . . -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - 9 ---------------- * * * *
6 0 p.m. || 23.426 || 51 |... . . . 52 44 Cumulus. --...--------------- 9 |---------------- * * * *
7 0 p.m. || 23. 432 50 |...... 52 45 Cumulus. ------------------- 9 |---------------- e - sº tº
May 23 6 0 a.m. || 23, 397 44 |... . . . 46 40. 5 | Stratus ---...--------------- 8 | East - - - - - - - - - - 2
7 0 a. m. 23, 386 45 - - - - - - 47 42 Cumulus. ------------------. 6 | East . . . . . ----- 2
8 0 a.m. || 23. 372 46.5 | . . . . . . 4) 44 Cumulus. --...--------------. 5 | East . . . . . . . . . . 2
9 0 a.m. || 23.348 49 - |...... 50 45 Cumulus. ---------...--------. 4 | East . . . . . . . . . . . 2
10 0 a. m. 23, 321 | 50 . . . . . . 53 47 Cumulus. ----------. . . . . . . . . 3 | Last - - - - - - - - -. 2
11 0 a.m. || 23.387 || 51 |. - - - - - 52, 5 || 46.5 | Cirro-cumulus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 | East - - - - - - - - - - 2 | Storm to west.
12 0 m. . . . . 23, 254 52 |. - - - - - 55 48 Cumulus------, ---------. . . . 8 | East - - - - - - - - - - 1 | Storm to West.
f


TABLE I.–Meteorological record of Northwest Wyoming Expedition from May 19 to September 13, 1873–Continued.
3
§ § CLOUDS. WINI).
.c. . . tº .
--> || 4 || + º-
§ rº-3 # rº # º .6 d
Station. 3 # = | ##| || 3 TE --> C Remarks.
º: E | * º gº * =4 &
& H & 2 | "3 2 || 3 rº º p 5 GD
GD GD C § 5 | # 5 | E, tº 'E C Q) ©
* 5 § <!--> Ö $–4 Q sp-4 E .: 5
P E- på | < | Q ſº | P: Sd -q P Fr.
Fort Bridger.--------------------. May 23 || 2 0 p.m. || 23, 282 52 ------ 51 46 Cumulo-mimbus. . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 | Southwest . . . . | 3 | Storm to southwest.
3 0 p.m. || 23. 302 50 ||-----. 50 45 Cumulo-stratus . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 | West . . . . . . . . . 3
4 0 p.m. || 23. 335 || 48 ||-----. 19 44 Nimbus. -------------------. 10 1.--------------. . . . . . Rain.
6 0 p.m. || 23. 352 || 48 ||-----. 50 44 Nimbus -------------------- 10 ||---------------. - - - || Rain.
7 0 p.m. 23. 364 || 48> . . . . . . 50, 5 || 44.5 ! Nimbus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 | West . . . . . . . . . 2 Clearing.
May 24 || 6 0 a.m. || 23. 380 43 |.----. 44 40 Nimbus. ---. -----------. . . . . 9 | South. . . . . . . . . 0
7 0 a.m. || 23. 386 43 |. - - - - - 45 40 Nimbus. . . . . . --------------- 9 | South. . . . . . . . . 0 | Snow.
8 0 a.m. || 23. 397 || 44 |. - - - - - 46 41 Nimbus. . . . . . . . . . ----------. 10 I.--------------. 0 | Snow.
9 0 a. m. 23. 401 || 46.5 ! . . . . . 47 42 Nimbus. ---------. . . . . ------ 9 || Wost . . . . . . . . . 1.
10 0 a.m. || 23, 413 ; 47 |. . . . . . 47 42 Nimbus. . . . . . . . . . ----------- 10 | West - - - - - - - - - 1 | Snow.
11 0 a.m. || 23.416 || 45.5 |. - - - - - 47 42 Nimbus. ----------------, --. 10 | West . . . . . . . . . 2 | Snow and rain.
12 0 m . . . . 23. 408 45. 5 |, . . . . . 45 42 Cumulus. ... --...-------------. 6 | West. . . . . . . . . 2 | Sloot.
1 0 p.m. || 23. 415 || 46 . . . . . . . 46 42 Nimbus. . . . . . --------------- 10 | West . . . . . . . . . 3 | Rain.
2 0 p.m. || 23, 418 45.5 - - - - - - 46.5 42.5 | Cumulus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 | West . . . . . . . . . 3
3 0 p.m. || 23, 418 47 |... . . . 47 43 Cumulus. --------------. . . . . 4 | West . . . . . . . . . 3
wº 4 0 p.m. || 23. 437 || 48 |. . . . . . 46.5 || 44 Cumulus.------------------- 7 | West . . . . . . . . . 3
5 0 p.m. || 23. 448 || 48 . . . . . . . 50 45 Cumulus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 | West . . . . . . . . . 3 | Light rain.
6 0 p.m. || 23.452 47.5 |. ----. 48 44 Cumulo-stratus, nimbo-cirrus|| 4 || West . . . . . . . . . 2 | Light rain.
7 0 p.m. || 23.464 || 47.5 |. ----. 48 43.5 | Cumulo-stratus, nimbus. . . . . 6 | West . . . . . . . . . 1
May 25 6 0 a.m. || 23. 504 || 42 |. ----- 45, 5 || 41 Cumulo-stratus - - - - - - - - - - - - - 6 | West . . . . . . . . . 1
7 0 a.m. || 23.509 || 44 |- - - - - - 45 40.5 | Cumulus. --...--...----------. 4 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
8 0 a.m. || 23, 523 44 |... - - - 45. 5 41 Cumulus.------------------. 9 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
9 0 a.m. || 23.523 || 45 |. - - - - - 45. 5 || 41, 5 | Cumulus. --------------...--. 8 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
10 0 a.m. || 23.521 || 47 |. - - - - - 48.5 43.5 | Cumulus. -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -. 3 | West . . . . . . . . . 1
11 0 a.m. || 23.523 e50, 5 - - - - - - 51 45.5 Cumulus.---------...--...--. 6 West. . . . . . . . . . 1
12 0 m. . . . . 23.520 50 . . . . . . 50 44, 5 | Cumulus.--------------...--. 8 | West . . . . . . . . . 1.
1 0 p.m. || 23, 520 || 51 |...... 50 45 Cumulus. ------------------. 8 | West . . . . . . . . . 1
3 0 p.m. || 23. 508 || 50 - - - - - - 51 45 Cumulus.------------------. 3 | North. . . . . . . . . 2
4 0 p.m. || 23. 504 || 50 |.----. 50. 5 || 44 Cumulus-------------------. 3 | North. . . . . . . . 2
7 0 p.m. || 23.520 53 |-----. 53 46 Cumulo-stratus - - - - - - - - - - - -. 3 | West . . . . . . . . . 1
May 26 || 7 0 a.m. || 23. 492 || 44 ------ 45.5 40 l.----------------------------- 0 | North. . . . . . . . . 1.
8 0 a.m. || 23. 491 46 |. - - - - - 40.5 ! 41 ------------------------------ 0 | North. . . . . . . . . 1
9 0 a.m. || 23. 476 || 48 |... - - - 48 43 Cumulus. ------------------- 1 | West . . . . . . . . . 0
10 0 a.m. || 23. 472 || 49 |... - - - 48 43 Cirrus ---------------------- 2 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
11 0 a.m. || 23.447 | 52 |. - - - - - 52 45 Cirro-stratus. --- - - - - - - - - - - - - 5 | West - - - - - - -. 2
12 0 m. - - -] 23.440 53 |.... -- 52 45 Cumulus, cirro-stratus - - - - - - 5 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
1 0 p.m. || 23.440 55 |...... 54. 5 || 45 Cirro-cumulus - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 7 | West ... -- - - - - - 2
6 0 p.m. || 23.418 52 |... --. 55 48 Cumulo-stratus - - - - - - - - - - - - - 8 | West - - - - - - - - - 2
May 27 | 6 0 a.m. || 23. 436 | 48 l.----- 47 4% ------------------------------ 0 ---------------- 0
i

Fort Bridger
* * * * *
as a sº as as as a s as sº as a * * * * * * * * * *
May 28
May 28
May 29
May 30
May 31
June 1
June 2.
1
1};
}
3.
I
Il
0 p.m.
Ill.
II].
:
:
* = * * * *
* * * * as *
* * * * * *
* * * * *
tº sº º & ºn tº
* * * * * *
s & sº am gº º
3
5.
5
* * * * * *
Cumulus.------------------. 1 | Northwest. . . . . 1
Cumulus. . . . . . * * * * * dº e = * * * * * * 6 est. --------. 2
Fog-------------------------|- --.] Southeast. . . . . 1.
Cumulus. ------------------ 2 | Southeast. . . . 1
Cumulus. ------------------. 2 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
Cumulo-nimbus. . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 | South. . . . . . . . . 3
Cumulus.------------------ 9 | West . . . . - - - - - 3
Cumulus. ------------------- 5 | West . . . . . . . . . 3
Cirro-cumulus, cirro-stratus. 3 | Northwest. . . . 3
Cumulo-stratus -- . . . . . . . . . . 9 | Northwest. - . . . 2
Cirro-cumulus, cumulo-strat. 8 West . . . . . . . . . 3
Cirro-cumulus - - - - - - - - - - - - -. 7 | West . . . . . . . . . I
Cirro-cumulus. ------...----. 3 | East . . . . . . . . . . 2
Cirro-cumulus, cumulo-strat. || 8 || North . . . . . . . . l
Cumulus. ------------------. 8 | South. . . . . . . . . 1
Nimbus---------------...---. 9 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
Nimbus. -------------------. 9 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
Cumulo-stratus . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 | Southwest . . . . | 1
Cumulo-stratus -----. . . . . . . . 6 | Southwest. ...| 1
Cirro-stratus. ------...-----. 4 | North . . . . . . . . 1
Cumulus.------------------. 8 | West . . . . . . . . . 3
Cumulus, nimbus ... --...--.. 9 | West . . . . . . . . . 4
Cumulus. ------------------. 7 | Wost . . . . . . . . . 3
Cirro-cumulus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
Cirro-stratus. ----. . . . . . . . . . . 1 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
Stratus --------------------. 1 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
* = * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *s s as ºr s = ºs º ºs 0 | North . . . . . . . . | 1
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * = as s = - e s as a w = - sº - as 0 | Last . . . . . . . . . . | 1
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * sº as as as ºs ºr * * * * * 0 | East . . . . . . . . . . | 1
Cirrus . . . . . . . . . ------------. ! --------------- - - -
Cirrus ---------------------. 3 | Northwest. -- l
Cumulo-stratus . . . . . * : * * * * * * * 6 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
Stratus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 | West . . . . . . . . . 3
Cumulo-stratus ----. . . . . . . . . 9 | West . . . . . . . . . 3
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * as as 0 | West . . . . . . . . . 1
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * s 0 | West . . . . . . . . . | 1
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * as a tº as * * * * * = as as a 0 | West . . . . . . . . . .2
Cirrus ------------------...-- 1 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
* * * * * * * as as as sº tº as a s m sº as ºn as s º ºs e = ** = as e 0 | West . . . . . . . . . . 2
* * * * * * s sº ºn as ºn tº sº sº ºn an is a ºn as w tº as a m = a m = a 0 | West . . . . . . . . . | 1
* * * * * * * s = º as a s = * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 0 | Northwest . . . . | 1
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * m = * 0 | North West - - - - | 1
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 0 | East - - - - - - - - - - | 1
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 0 | East . . . . . . . . . . 2
Cumulus. --------- . . . . . ----. 1 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
Cirro-stratus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 | Northwest . . . . . 2
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * () West ... - - - - - - - 1
* * * * * * * * * = a- a • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 0 | West. . . . . . . . . . ()
Light rain.
Heavy dew.
Storm to south.
Light rain.
Ice one-eighth inch.
Ice one-eighth inch.
Slight aurora.
3
TABLE I.—Meteorological record of Northwest Wyoming Expedition from May 19 to September 13, 1873–Continued.
C
§ 5 CLOUDS. WINI).
5 : | 5 s
P- § § e g &
Station. $3 ºf 3 || 3 | # fe -4→ 3 Itemarks.
Q) * = | }. p p g: s =4 *_
g 3. SS | S 9 ~ rº E. 5 QE)
CD KX O § F. & 8 <!--> rº C QX Q.)
*: 5 § <!--> § Pº QX É 3 .#: 5
P 8- § | 3 || ſ= | F | P: -q Q Fr.
Fort Bridger-----------........... June 3 || 7 0 a.m. || 23. 689 || 58 . . . . . . 62 51 Cirrus -----------..... ----- 1 | West . . . . . . . . 0
8 0 a. m. || 23 689 58 |. - - - - - 59 47 Cirrus ---------...-- . . . . . . . . . 1 | Northeast . . . . . 1
9 0 a. m. || 23. 689 61.5 | . . . . . . 62.5 47 l. --------------------. . . . . . . . . 0 | Northeast - - - - | 1
10 0 a. m. || 23. 689 64, 5 | . . . . . . 65. 5 || 50 Cumulus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 | Northeast . . . . | 1
11 0 a.m. || 23. 683 || 69 |. - - - - - 73 55 Cumulus. -----. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 | North. . . . . . . . . T
1 0 p.m. || 23, 683 || 80 |... . . . 87. 5 || 63 Cumulus. --...--...-----------. 1 | North. . . . . . . . . 1 | Showers in mountains.
2 0 p.m. || 23. 664 || 79.5 |... . . . 82, 5 || 61 Cumulus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 | West . . . . . . . . . 1 I)0.
4 0 p.m. || 23, 635 | 79 |. . . . . . 76 53 Cumulus. ---...-----...----. 2 | West . . . . . . . . . 1
7 0 p.m. || 23, 603 || 65 . . . . . . 63 52 Cirro-cumulus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 | Northwest 1
8 0 p.m. || 23, 584 || 52 |. . . . . . 50 44 Cirrus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 | North. . . . . . . . . 1
June 4 || 6 0 a. m. 23. 681 | 50.5 | . . . . . . 52.5 | 40.5 !-------------------------...--. 0 | West . . . . . . . . . 1.
7 0 a. m. 23. 601 || 58 . . . . . . 59.5 || 51 |------ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . | 0 | West . . . . . . . . . 1
2 0 p.m. || 23.532 76.5 |......|------|-----. Cumulo-stratus . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 | West . . . . . . . . . 1
7 0 p.m. || 23, 509 || 61.5 . . . . . . * - - - - - - - - - - - Nimbus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -----. 1 | Northwest . . . . 1 || Showery to east.
9 0 p.m. || 23. 505 || 44 |------|------|------|-----------------...-- s º is is g º as a 0 | South . . . . . . . . . 1
June 5 || 7 0 a.m. || 23.574 || 63 ... ---|--|--|--|- - - - , . Cirrus ---------------------. 1 | North . . . . . . . . 1
10 0 a.m. | 93. 594 | 78 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cirro-cumulus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 | Southwest . . . . | 1
12 0 m. 23, 588 78 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cumulus.-----------. . . . . . . . 2 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
3 0 p.m. || 23. 567 || 79 |......|- - - - - , |... . . . Cumulus. -----------...----. 1 | West . . . . . . . . . 1
6 0 p.m. || 33.538 | 72.5 |------|------|------|-------, -----. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...] West . . . . . . . . . 2
9 0 p.m. 23.539 || 47 |... . . . 47 42 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ----------. ---. 0 | South . . . . . . . . . 1
June 6 || 5 0 a.m. || 23, 532 || 47.5 |- - - - - - 50 ------|-------------------------...-- 0 | West . . . . . . . . . 1
June ºf | 12 0 m. 23. 564 || 74 74 |. - - - - - |... -- Cumulus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 0
6 0 p.m. || 23, 574 69 65 |------|----- Nimbus. -------------------. 3 | West . . . . . . . . . 0
June 8 || 7 0 a.m. || 23.652 || 49 50 ------|------|------------------------------|- - - ---------------. - - - -
9 0 a. m. 23. 664 61.5 | 69 - - - - - - I - - - - - - I - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - as s sº ſº º sº dº sº * * * * * * * * * * *
J 1 0 a. m. 23. 686 71 70 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - as as a * * * * * * * * * * * * = as as s
1230 p.m. || 23, 674 | 73 || 70 ||------|--|--|---------------...-------------|....|-----...-----.... *
3.30 p.m. || 23, 634 || 64 62 |------|------|------------------------------|... l. --------------. - -
6 0 p.m. || 23. 610 54 57 ------|------|------------------------------ * * * : * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * sº
9 0 p.m. || 23.634 || 48.5 || 48 ||------|------|------------------------------|. ams as as i v ºr sº * is sº as a s as as as sº sº m as *
June 9 || 7 0 a. m. : 668 47.5 ! 47 l. - - - - - - - - - - -] . Cumu ins.................... 0 || --------------- 0
2 0 p.m. || 23. 666 76 72 |------|------ UlDD Ullus - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 1 | West . . . . . . . . . 1 | Instrum’ &
6 0 p.m. || 23. 629 || 65.5 | 63.5 - - - - - - - - - - - - Cumulus.------------------. 1 | Southwest - - - - | 1 Do. ts exposed to sun
9 0 p.m. || 23. 614 || 44 || 45 ||------|------|------------------...----------- 0 ---------------- 0
June 10 | 6 0 a.m. || 23. 624 / 46.2 50 ||------|--|--|--|------------------ - - - - - - - - - - - - * * s a i s = * * * s tº sº am as sº ºf s as as a & gº ºn tº
7 0 a.m. || 23. 668 63.5 56 |------|-----. 1.-- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 0 | West . . . . . . . . . 1 Do.
12.30 p.m. || 23.653 | 78.5 || 78.5 ||------|--|--|--|- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 0 | West . . . . . . . . . 1 Do.
2 0 p.m. || 23. 644 86 86.5 ! ------|-- - - - - Cumulus. ----------...------. 1 | West . . . . . . . . . 2 Do.


i
º
9 0 p.m. || 23. 596 || 51.5 54 ||------|------|------. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - * * * * 0 | West . . . . . . . . . 1
June 11 || 6 0 a. m. 23. 592 || 53 54 ||------|------ Cirro-cumulus . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 | South. . . . . . . . . 1
12 15 p.m. || 23. 644 || 79 74 |------|------ Cumulus-------------------- 4 | West - - - - - - - - - 2 Do.
2 0 p.m. || 23.632 | 73 71.5 l.-----|------ Cumulus.------------------ 8 || Southwest . . . . 2 | Instrum’ts exposed to sun;
- - a few drops of rain.
9 0 p.m. || 23.634 50 45 ------|------ Stratus . . . . . . . . . . - - - - - - - - - - - 1 | South . . . . . . . . . 1
June 12 || 7 0 a.m. || 2:3. 728 || 71. 5 || 65.5 |. -- - - - - - - - - - Cirrus ---------------------- 2 | West . . . . . . . . . 1
Camp 3, (6,308') - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - June 12 || 7 30 p.m. 24.004 || 63 62. 7 ||------|-----. Cirro-stratus . . . . . . . . . -----. 1 | West . . . . . . . . . 1
June 13 8 15 a. m. 24. 013 | 72 67 ------|------|------------------------------ 0 | West - - - - - - - - . 1
Camp 5, (6,315') - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - June 14 || 9 0 a. Im. 24.016 || 78 |. - - - - - 68 57 Cumulus. ----------. . . . . . ... 1 |---------------. 0
12 m . . . . . 23.982 | 80.5 ! ... - - - - 80. 5 59.5 Cumulus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 | South . . . . . . . . . 1
3 0 p.m. || 23, 948 || 85.5 |. -- - - - 78 |. - - - - - Cirrus - - - - - - - - ------------ 2 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
- 7 0 p.m. || 23.922 || 65 |. . . . . . 64 53.5 Cirrus, cumulo-stratus. ----. 7 | West - - - - - - - - . 1
Camp 6, (6,210) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - June 15 || 4 30 p.m. || 24.038 77 73 I.-----|-----. Cumulus, cirrus, nimbus . . . . 8 | East - - - - - - - - -. 2
- 6 0 p.m. || 24.036 71 70, 5 1. ----. ----- Nimbus, cumulus, cirrus . . . . 8 || Southeast. . . . . 2 | Thundering.
June 16 7 0 a. m. 24. 049 57 55, 5 1. ---. ------- Cumulus, nimbus.----------- 6 Jast ---------. 1 Instrum'ts exposed to sun
Camp 7 ------------ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - June 16 || 11 0 a. Im. || 24.057 | 85 78 93 70 Cumulus, cirrus. -- . . . . . ----- 2 | South. . . . . . . . . 2 Do.
12 m - - - - - - 24. 046 || 86 83 96.5 ! . . . . . . Cumulus, nimbus . . . . . . . . . . 7 | Southeast . . . . . 3 Do.
2 0 p.m. || 24.032 86.5 82 93 68 Cumulus, nimbus - - - - - - - - - -. 6 | West . . . . . . . . . 3 Do.
& 6 0 p.m. || 23.995 || 71 67 65 55 Cumulo-stratus ... ----------- 8 | West . . . . . . . . . l Do.
Station-house south side of Big -
Sandy --- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - June 17 | 12 m . . . . . . 23.962 | 80.5 ! 81.5 ! . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cirro-stratus. ---...--...----. 7 | West - - - - - - - - , 2
- 1 0 p.m. || 23.949 || 77 78 |------|------ Cirro-stratus. -- . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
Camp 8, (6,257'). ------------------- June 17 | 8 || 0 p.m. || 23. 898 || 57 55 ------|-----. Cirro-stratus. --------------- 1 | West . . . . . . . . . 0
B June 18 || 4 30 a. m. 23. 810 || 41 41 ---...--|------ Cirrus ---------------------. 1 | East . . . . . . . . . . ()
ation-house crossing of ig
sº sº as a s = * * * * * * * * * *g * as sº sº a sº * * * * June 18 || 2:30 p.m. || 23.642 | 77.8 || 78.2 |. -----|-- - - - - Cirrus ---------------------. 4 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
430 p.m. || 23. 640 77 76.5 |------|-----. Cirro-Cumulus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
Camp 9, (6,569') - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - June 19 || 5 30 a.m. || 23.705 |37 || 48 |------|->;--. Cirrus --------------------. 1 | Southeast . . . . . 0
Camp 10, (6,658'). ---. . . -----------|---------- 2 0 p.m. || 23.634 88 88 88 60 Cumulus. ------------------. 1 | East . . . . . . . . . . 2 Do.
6 0 p.m. || 23. 573 | 84.8 82.6 | 82 56. 7 | Cumulus.................... 1 | South West . . . . 2
© 9 0 p.m. || 23.534 57, 5 52, 5 54 47 Stratus --------------------. ! ---------------. 0
June 20 6 0 a.m. || 23, 558 59. 3 55 59 49.5 | Cirro-stratus................ 1 | North. . . . . . . . . ()
- 12 m . . . . . . 23. 570 | 85 |- - - - - - 90 60.5 Cumulus.................... 1 | South. . . . . . . . . 3
2 0 p.m. || 23. 510 | 88 92 89 ** !-----------------------------. 0 | South. . . . . . . . . 4
8 0 p.m. || 23, 472 | 68 66 67 48 Cumulo-stratus . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
June 21 | 12 m . . . . . . 23. 442 | 81. 5 || 83 79.5 || 55 Cumulus. . . . . . . . .----------- 4 | South . . . . . . . . . 4
Camp 11, (6,743')------ - - - - - - - - - - - - June 21 | 730 p.m. || 23. 102 || 61.2 58.5 |. -----|-----. Stratus -------...----------. 3 || --------------. 0
June 22 || 5 0 a.m. || 23, 110 || 43 || 4:3, 5 |... ----|------ Nimbus, cumulo-stratus . . . . 8 || West . . . . . . . . 2 | A few drops of rain.
Dry Sandy station-house.--------. June 22 || 7 0 a. m. 23. 138 || 40 4 - |------|------ Nimbus--------------------- 10 | Southwest. . . . . 3 | [[ard rain and SnOW.
Camp 12, (7,134) --------- - - - - - - - - - June 22 || 4 0 p.m. 22.986 52 50.5 |.... --|- - - - - - Cumulus------------------- 7 | West . . . . . . . . . 4
5 0 p.m. 22.992 || 49 48 |------|------ Cumulus-------------------. 6 | West . . . . . . . . . 3
June 23 || 6 0 a. m. || 23, 126 52 55 49 * !-----------------------------. 0 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
12 m. - - - - - 23. 148 || 56 57 57 l. - - - - - Cumulus-------------------. 1 | South . . . . . . . . . 2
Summit of South Pass, (7,480'). ---- June 23 || 3 30 p.m. || 22, 788 59 52 ------|------|... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
Camp 13, (7,400') - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - June 23 630 p.m. 22.858 55 * !------|------|-----------------------------. 0 | West . . . . . . . . . 1
June 24 ; 0 a. Im. ; ; ; r: ; 5 |.......I. Stratus --------------------. 1 Iºast : - - - - - - - - - 2
ambaugh, (7,767') - - - - - - - - - June 24 20 p.m. . 516 || 65.5 | 60. 5 |- - - - - -]. - - - - - Cumulo-stratus ... -- - - - - - - - - - 1 | West - - - - - - - -. 1.
Camp Stambaugh, ( ) June 25 || 7 0 a. m. 22. 567 || 62 * !------|------|-----...----------------------. 0 | West - - - - - - -. 2
9 0 a. m. 22. 568 77.5 | 78 |------|------|--|-- . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0 | Southwest . . . . . 2
10 0 a.m. || 22, 575 70 69.8 |------|------|.............................. 0 | Southwest . . . . . 2
11 0 a.m. || 22, 572 | 70 7" ------|------|-------------------...--...----- 0 | South West . . . .' 3
TABLE I.—Meteorological record of Northwest Wyoming Expedition from May 19 to September 13, 1873–Continued.
º
th * w
* • * º CLOUDS. WIND
*— ;- || --→ ;-
§ * $3 § - -S -
Station. § ă ă '## É H +-> 3. Remarks.
65 KX # ##|33 || 3 | # re; 5 #5 d
<!-> 8 g --> --> # 3 º: O £ $2
cº Peº cº; +-> Q * E • *. C
ſº 8- § | 3 || | | E | P: g -q ſº Pri.
Camp Stambaugh, (7,767'). ---...--. June 25 | 12 m - - - - - - 22. 576 | 73.8 76.5 ! ------|-----|-----------------------------. 0 | South ...... --. 3
1 0 p.m. || 22.568 74 79 |------|------|------------------------------ 0 | South. . . . . . . . . 3
2 0 p.m. || 22. 576 | 73 74. 5 75 40 l.----------------------------- 0 | Southwest ....! 4
3 0 p.m. 22. 562 75 ------|------|------|------------------------------ 0 | Southwest . . . . . 4
4 0 p.m. 22. 594 | 74.5 || 74 || " " ' ' ' ||------|------------------------------ 0 | Southwest . . . . . 4
6 0 p.m. 22. 598 || 73 70 70.5 ! 44, 5 -----------------------------. 0 | Southwest - - - ..] 3
8 0 p.m. || 22.640 | 68 60 ------|--|-- Cumulo-stratus. ------...----. 1 | Southwest . . . . . 2
* 9 0 p.m. || 22. 610 | 69 57.5 ------|- - - --|------------------------------ 0 | Southwest. . . . . . 2
10 0 p.m. || 2.2. 690 | 68 63 |------|------|------------------------------ 0 | Southwest - - - . 1
11 0 p.m. | 22.076 | 68.5 54 |------|------|------------------------------|--|--|---------------. * * -
12 m - - - - - - 22, 680 67.5 51.5 ------|------|-------------------, ----------|--|--|----------------|--
June 26 1 0 a.m. l 22, 708 67.5 46, 5 |... ---|------|-----...----, -----------------. * - - - sº sº - - e º 'º - as sº º Aº Aº e s - - -
- 2 0 a.m. || 22, 710 | 66.5 44.5 ! ... - - - - - - - - -].... * - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - s - - - - - - * - - - - - - - - a - - - as * - - s sº - - -
3 0 a.m. 22, 735 | 05.5 42.5 l.-----|------|------------------------------|--|--|---------...-----|.
4 0 a. m. 22. 740 || 65 41, 5 || -----|------|------------------------------|--|--|----------------|- *
5 0 a. m. 22, 764 || 62 42.5 ! -----|------|- - - - ------------------------- sº - - - as a - - e as a - - e s - - º ºs - - * * -
6 0 a. m. 22. 758 61 51 64.8 45.5 ! ----------------------------. 0 | West . . . . . . . . 1
7 0 a. m. 22, 774 64 61 || -----|------|---------------------, - - - - - - - - 0 | Southwest . . . . . 2
8 0 a. m. 22, 790 | 68 65, 5 l.-----|------|------------------------------ 0 | Southwest .... 2
9 0 a.m. 22.806 | 69.5 | 68 1. -----|--|--|--|- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 0 | Southwest - - - . 2
10 0 a. m. 22, 808 || 72.5 | 71 ||------|------| -- . . . . . . --------------...----- 0 | Southwest. . . . . . 2
11 0 a. m. 22. 815 || 74 70.5 ! ------|------|------------------------------ 0 | Southwest. . . . . . 2
12 m ------ 22. 810 || 75 77.5 75 47.5 ! ------------------------------ 0 | Southwest . . . . . 2
1 0 p.m. | 22. S11 | 75. 5 | 81.5 |------|------|-----------------------------. 0 | Southwest . . . . 3
2 0 p.m. || 22, 811 || 74 75 76.5 47.5 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 0 | Southwest . . . .] 3 ||
3 0 p.m. 22. 813 || 75 74.5 |.-----|------|-----------------------------. 0 | Southwest . . . . 2
4 0 p.m. || 22, 808 76 76 |. -----|------|-----------------------------. 0 | Southwest . . . . . 1
5 0 p.m. 22. 816 | 73.5 | 73.5 |------|------|-----------------------------. 0 | Southwest . . . . . 1
6 0 p.m. || 22.820 71.5 || 70 71 45.5 - - - - - ------------------------- 0 | West - - - - - - - - - 1
8 0 p.m. || 22.838 69 57 ------|------|----------------------------. 0 | Southwest - - - - 0
9 0 p.m. 22. 848 67 54 ------|------|------------------------------ 0 | West . . . . . . . . . 0
| June 27 || 7 0 a.m. || 22, 875 || 65 64. 5 l.-----|------|------------------------------ 0 | Southwest . . . . . 1
-- - 8 0 a. m. 22.884 || 69 68.5 ------|------|------------------------------ 0 | Southwest . . . . 1
9 0 a. m. 22, 880 | 72 72 ------|------|------------------. ---------- 0 | West . . . . . . . . . 1
12 m -----. 22.882 75 80 76.5 48 |----------------- ------------ 0 | South West - - - - 2
2 0 p.m. 22.873 || 74.5 74 75 46 |------------------------------ 0 | West . . . . . . . . . 3
6 0 p.m. 22.850 | 74 69 69.5 43.5 |------------------------------ 0 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
8 0 p.m. 22. 848 70 57 ------|------|------------------------------ 0 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
9 0 p.m. 22.851 | 68 56 ------|------ Stratus. -------------------. 1 | West . . . . . . . . . 2



i
&
Julue 28 || 6 0 a. m. 22.838 61, 2 58 - - - - - - I - - - - - - Cirro-cumulus ---------...--. 1 | Southwest....
Camp 15, (6,937').------------...---. June 28 7 15 p.m. || 23. 332 || 53 44 I.----------. Cirrus :--------------------. 1 | Southwest . . . .
Camp 16, (5,407'). ----------------- June 29 | 12 m - - - - -. 24. TI3 || 88 76 |------|------ Cumulus.------------------. 1 | Southeast. . . . .
2 0 p.m. || 24.663 87 76 ------|-- - - - - Cumulus.------------------. 1 | North - - - - - - - - 1
6 0 p.m. 24. 573 75 74 74 57 Cumulus-------------------. 1 |.--------------. 0
June 30 || 415 a. m. 24. 533 46 45 l.-----|------ Cumulo-stratus ... -- - - - - - - - - - 3 |---------------- 0
Ranch on Baldwin Creek, (5,311'). - June 30 | 12 30 p.m. || 24. 630 | 67.5 | 66 |. -----|------ Cumulus-------------------. 8 | South. -- . . . . . . 1
1 15 p.m. || 24, 630 || 71.5 || 70. 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cumulo-stratus ... ----------- 7 | South . . . . . . . . . 1 | Light rain.
Camp 17, (5,447')-----...--...------. June 30 345 p.m. || 24, 551 | 66 64 - - - - - - - - - - - - Cumulus. . . . . . . . . ----------- 3 | West . . . . . . . . . 1 | Rain.
8 0 p.m. || 24. 531 || 51 51 1. -----|------ Cumulo-stratus - - - - - - - - - - - - - 6 | South. . . . . . . . . 1
July 5 0 a. m. 24. 468 || 41.5 42 • - - - - - I - - - - - - I - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - * * * * : * - - - - - - as a s = e = * - - - -
6 0 a.m. || 24. 472 || 48.2 | 54 | . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cirro-cumulus, cirro-stratus. | 1 |... . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0
Camp Brown, (5,498).-------------| July 2 | 12 m ------ 24, 420 76. 5 || 70 78.8 56 Cumulus.------------------. 8 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
2 0 p.m. || 24.406 || 78.5 80 80. 5 54.5 | Cumulus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
8 15 p.m. || 24, 440 | 73 66 1. -----|------ Cirrus, cumulo-Stratus ...... 2 | West . . . . . . . . . 1
July 3 || 7 0 a.m. || 24, 472 63 58 67 52.5 |.. ---------------------------. 0 || --------------. 0
g 8 0 a.m. || 24. 507 | 68 04 ------|------|------------------------------ 0 | East ---------. 1
9 0 a.m. || 24. 510 | 72 68 I.-----|------|------------------------------ 0 | East . . . . . . . . . . 1
10 0 a.m. || 24. 509 | 73 71 ------|------ Cirro-Stratus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 | East . . . . . ----- 1
11 0 a. m. 24, 508 || 75. 5 || 74 | . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cirro-Stratus. -- - - - - - - - - -----| 1 || --------------- 0
12 m . . . . . . 24, 510 || 77 78 78, 9 || 51 Cirrus ---------------------. 1 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
1 0 p.m. || 24.508 || 77.8 80 . . . . . . . . . . . . Cirrus ---------------------- 1 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
2 0 p.m. || 24. 510 || 79.5 | 81 82 52, 5 | Cirrus ...--------...----------- 1 ! West . . . . . . . . 2
3 0 p.m. || 24, 512 || 81 83 |------|------ Cirrus . . . . . ----------------- 1 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
4 0 p.m. || 24, 512 | 83.5 | 84 |......] . . . . . . Cirrus :--------------------- 1 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
5 0 p.m. || 24. 532 81.5 82 . . . . . . . . . . . . Cirrus ---------------------. 1 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
6 0 p.m. || 24, 544 || 82 79 |------|-----. Cirrus ---------------------- 1 | West . . . . . . . . . 1
7 0 p.m. || 24. 557 78.3 || 74 72 51 Cirrus ---------------------. 3 | West . . . . . . . . . 1.
8 0 p.m. || 24, 586 75 67 l.-----|-----. Cirro-stratus.----...-...----- 2 || Wost . . . . . . . . . 1
9 0 p.m. | 24, 392 | 72.5 64 |------|------|------------------------------|--|--|----------------|--
10 0 p.m. || 24,000 || 70.5 | 62 |. -----|------|------------------------------|--|--|---------------- - -
11 0 p.m. || 24.608 || 72 62 ------|------|------------------------------|--|--|----------------|-
12 m --- - - - 24. 610 || 70 60 ------|------|------------------------------|--|--|---------------. - -
July 4 || 1 0 a.m. || 24, 616 || 69.5 59 |------|------|... . . . . . . . . . . . . ... -------------|--- |----------------|--
2 0 a. m. 24, 620 | 68.5 62 |.-----|------|... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . * * * * * - - - - - - - a s = * * * -
3 0 a.m. || 24, 626 67, 6 59 |. -----|--|--|--|- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - * * * * - - - - - - - - - * * * * - - -
aº 4 0 a.m. | 24, 622 | 66, 7 52. 4 - - - - - - - - - - - -]. - . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . * * * i s m sº m - * * * * * * * * * * *
5 0 a.m. || 24, 664 | 66 * || -----|------|------------------------------ 0 l.--------------- 0
6 0 a. m. 24, 673 | 64.5 56 | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0 | West . . . . . . . . . 1
7 () a. m. 24, 672 | 66 61 69.5 52.5 ſ. ----- . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0 | West . . . . . . . . . 0
8 0 a.m. || 24, 676 | 69.5 | 66 | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . * - ºr ºn tº * * - - - - - - - - es º º - - - - - - 0 | East --- - - - - - - - 1
10 0 a. m. 24.670 75.5 | 72 l------|------|----...---------...-----...-----|--|----------------|.
11 0 a.m. || 24. 664 || 78.5 76 |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . * * * i • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
12 m - - - - - - 24. 652 81 79 ------|------|------------------------------|--|--|----------------|--
2 0 p.m. || 24.640 83 84 86 55.2 |. . . . . ------------------------. 0 | West - - - - - - - - - 2
7 0 p.m. || 24, 628 83.5 77 73 55 || ----------------------------- 0 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
July 5 || 9 20 a.m. || 24, 680 78 75 ------|------|------------------------------|--|--|----------------|--|--
12 m -----. 24, 652 | 84, 5 || 87 86 60. 5 1. -----------------------------|--|--|----------------
2 0 p.m. || 24, 646 | 86.5 | 89 87.5 59.5 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
4 0 p.m. || 24.628 86 87 87.5 61 | . . . . . -------------------------|-- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
6 0 p.m. 24.634 86 85 85.5 60.5 ! -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
9 0 p.m. 24.612 | 72.5 | 66 63 53 |..... --------. . . . . . . . . . . . . . ---|--|--|----------------
TABLE I.—Meteorological record of Northwest Wyoming Expedition from May 19 to September 13, 1873—Continued.
CI,OUDS.
§ 5 WINI)
5 tº 5 §
H § +-> g e *
Station. $3 | "3 2 | "... ? | 3 = +5 3 Remarks.
§ # 3 || 3 = | E E º: is p-g *
te d5 3. S 3 | "3 2 rº rº tº d 5 GD
Q) C & E : E +3 re: O Kl) ©
* 5 § tº T | 3 : 3 .8 F. .: 5
P 8– § | 3 || | | | E = g -: P Prº
Camp Brown, (5,498'). ----...- ... . . . July 6 || 7 0 a.m. || 24, 682 || 71.5 | 68 71.5 58 ------------------------------|-- me & as me as * = as tº as as as as as an ºs sº sº e * &
9 0 a.m. || 24, 680 || 76, 5 || 75, 5 || 76.5 58 Cumulus.-------------------| 6 |................l.
12 m . . . . . . 24, 666 86. 5 || 87 88, 5 62 Cumulo-stratus ... ---------. 8 || ---------------|- ... I'ew drops of rain.
wº 2 0 p.m. || 24, 688 80. 5 || 78 78 56.5 | Cumulo-stratus . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 ----------------|- --. Ilight rain.
7 0 p.m. || 24, 678 76 77.5 || 76, 5 57.5 | Stratus, ninbus . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 ----------------|---
10 0 p.m. | 84.670 70.5 !------|------------|-------...----...--------------. * = e i < * * * * * * * * * * * * * * = I as se
July 7 || 7 0 a.m. || 24, 698 | 66.5 54 54.5 33 || -----------------------------|--|--|----------------|---
8 0 a. m. 24.696 || 70 73 73 90 ------------------------------|--|--|---------------|. -
9 0 a. m. 24. 708 || 75.5 | 74 |.-----------|---------------...------...-----|....l................l.
10 0 a. m. 24, 710 || 77 70 ------------|------------------------------|--|--|...------------.l. -
11 0 a.m. || 24, 710 | 80 78.5 ------------|------------------------------|--|--|----------------|- - -
12 m . . . . . . 24, 692 || 82 80. 5 | 81, 5 60 |. -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - . . . . . . * = e i s is nº º sm e º s = s. s is sº s = ºr i = *
1 0 p.m. || 24, 674 84.5 83 84. 5 61 || ----------------------------- * * * : * s is is s s sº s = º ºs as as as as as I me as *
2 0 p.m. || 24, 658 88 87.5 ------------|----------------------------- tº º sº tº i <= * * * *º tº ſº gº gº ºg º ºr gº º sº sº I ºr sº -
3 0 p.m. || 24, 652 | 87 82 |. ----. -----. Nimbus, cumulo-stratus. . . . . 9 | Southwest . . 0 | Showering.
4 0 p.m. || 24, 636 | 85 81 81 61.5 | Nimbus, cumulo-stratus. . . . . 9 |----------------|-- *
5 0 p.m. || 24. 620 | 82 79 89.5 50 Nimbus, cumulo-stratus. . . . . 9 |----------------|-- *
6 0 p.m. || 24, 634 81.5 77.5 || 77.5 57.5 | Nimbus, cumulo-stratus. . . . . 7 | East - - - - - - - - - - 1.
Camp Brown, (5,498'). -- - - - - - - - - - -. July 8 || 7 0 a.m. || 24, 674 | 68.5 67 67.5 57.5 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - --------------.
9 0 a.m. | 24, 676 75.5 76 ... -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
12 m. 24.674 | 85.5 | 82.5 ! 83.5 60 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2 0 p.m. || 24. 654 || 85.5 | 82 ||------------|. . . . . ------. . . . . . . . . . . . . . ----. ‘..-
5 0 p.m. || 24. 622 || 90.7 | 84.3 |. . . . . . . . . . . . Cumulus. ------------------. 2 | West . . . . . . . . . 2 | Wind-storm between 3 and
4 D. Im.
6 0 p.m. || 24. 636 | 80. 5 || 77 77. 5 58 Cumulus, nimbus . . . . . . . . . . . 2 | Northwest. - - - || 2 D
9 30 p.m. || 24. 723 | 73 68 - - - - - - - - - - - - Cumulus, nimbus . . . . . . . . . . 9 | North . . . . . . . . 3
July 9 || 7 0 a.m. || 24, 749 || 67. 66 66.5 56 - - - - - - - - - --------------------. 0 | North . . . . . . . . 0
12 m. 24, 766 80. 5 77.5 |. -- - - - - - - - - - Cumulus. ------...---------. 1 ---------------- 0
6 0 p.m. || 24, 730 | 89.9 || 81.5 | 83 61 Cirro-cumulus ...-------...--. 1 | North . . . . . . . . 1.
July 16 || 7 0 a.m. || 24, 700 69.5 67 68 58.5 Cirro-cumulus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 | North . . . . . . . . 1
Camp 19.-------------------------. July 11 || 7 0 a.m. || 24.640 | 66.5 69 |... . . . . . . . . . Cumulo-stratus. . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 |---------------- 0
12 15 p.m. || 24.603 || 87 90 l.----------. Nimbus, cumulus . . . . . . . . . . . 4 | Southeast. . . . . 1
Camp 20, (5,793'). ----------------. July 12 || 7 0 a.m. || 24, 348 63 62 ------------ Cumulus-------------------. 1 | West - - - - - - - - - 1
Camp 21, (5,553).----------------. July 12 || 8 0 p.m. || 24. 412 || 67.5 | 68 |... . . . . . . . . . Stratus --------------------. 4 | South. . . . . . . . . 1
July 13 || 6 0 a.m. || 24. 515 53 56 |------------ Cirro-cumulus, cumulo-strat. | 8 || South. . . . . . . . . 0
7 0 a.m. || 24. 532 | 66.5 | 61.5 59.5 50.5 Cirro-cumulus, stratus . . . . . . 3 | East. -- - - - - - - - 1
12 15 p.m. || 24. 515 . 72 72 71.5 51.5 | Cumulus, cumulo-stratus. --. 6 | West . . . . . . . . . 3 | Shower in Wind River
Mountains.
3 0 p.m. || 24. 546 74.6 75 . . . . . . . . . . . . Cumulus.--------------- . . . ." 2 | West . . . . . . . . . 1–3 || Wind westerly,
T


i
G.
Camp 24, (6,320) -----------...-----
Camp on Dry Creek . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Headwaters of Owl Creek, (8,610').
Eijghest point reached on Washa-
kie Needles, (12,053')... . . . . . . . . .
Timber-line on Washakie Needles,
. (10,683).-----------------------.
Camp 26, (6,168). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Last divide before reaching Camp
27, (7,075'). ----------------------
Camp 27, (6,471'). --...----. . . . . . . . .
Camp 29, (5,780') ...---...----------
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
24
:
i
i
i1
3.
2
I).
Iſl.
º
º
;
.
3
1
:
13
1
i
º:
I
}]
o
:
i
24. 563
5.066
i
55:
5
tret
3:
- * = as as - - - - as * -
- * * * - - - - * * * *
- * * * * - - - as ºs s =
- - - - - - - - - - - -
- - - - - - - - - as º ºn
- = * * * - - - as as s -
* * * * * * * * * * * *
• * * * * * * * * * * *
- * * * * - - - - s = -
• * * * * * * * * * * *
* * * * * * * * * * * *
* * * * * * * * * * * *
- - - - - - - - -e ºs as a
* * * * * * * * * * * *
* * * * * * * * * * * *
• * * * * * * * * * * a
- - * * * - - - - as * *
* - is as tº - - - - s = *
* * * * * * * * * * * *
* - w = * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
- - - - - - - - - * * * * - - - - as as * - - - e s s as - - -
Cirro-stratus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cumulo-stratus . . . . . . . . . . . . .
- - - * * * - - - - e s - - - - - m s - - - - - as as sº - - -
- - as s = * - - - as as as a - - - as e º sº - - - - as as as - - -
• - as as s = - - - sº sº g º - - - * * * * - - - sº sº sº ºr - - -
s - w sº as * * * * * * * * * * * * as s = * * * * * * * * * *
- - - * * * - - - - a s tº - - - * * * * - - - - * * * - - -
- - - as º ºr a - - * * *s tº - - - m º ºs º ºs - - * * * * * - -
- - -> * s se - - - - as e = - - - - as * * - - - - - - - - - -
- - * * * * * - - - nº sº sº - - - * * * * * * * as sº is a “ - -
Cirro-cumulus, cumulo-strat.
Cirrus, cumulo-stratus . . . . . .
Nimbus. -------------------.
Cumulo-stratus . . . . . . . . -----
Cirro-stratus. -----...-...----.
Nimbus, cumulus. . . . . . . . . . .
Cumulus, Stratus . . . . . . . . . . .
- - - ºr * * - - - - s sº - - - - - a s - - - - - a s sº - - -
• * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Cumulus. ------------------.
Cumulus-------------------.
Cumulus. -------------------
Cumulus. -------------------
Nimbus. -------------------.
Nimbus, cumulus . . . . . . . . . . .
Cumulus, cumulo-stratus . . .
Stratus, cumulus - - - - - - - - - - -
Cumulus.-------------------
South. -------.
Southwest - - -.
South... ------.
Camp 22, (5,556'). ----------------.
Camp 23, (6,140') ------------------
Camp 25, (6,208) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Highest point on trail over Owl
Creek Mountains, (7,836'). - - - - - -
Summit, east of pass, (8,233'). -- - - -
Camp 26, (6,168). ---...--.... ------.
Camp 28, (6,121') ..................
Camp 30, (6,166').-----............
Summit of mount south of Camp
30, (8,607'). ----------------------
Camp 31, (7,423') ..................
Camp 32, (5,273') -- . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
13
14
24
25
25
25
26
26
949
. 636
- - - - - - - - - sº ºs -
* * * * * - - - * * * *
- - - * * * - - - - - es sº - - - - sº e as - - - * * * * - - -
Northwest. ...
Southwest . . . .
- I - - - is sº - - - - tº e s - - - -
West . . . . . . . . .
West . . . . . . . .
Wost . . . . . . . . . •
Northwest. ...
NorthWest . . . .
• * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
North West . . . .
West - - - - - - - - -
2
i
Brilliant meteor at 8.35p.m.
- Light rain.
Rain in mountains.
Light rain,
Show ery.
TABLE I.—Meteorological record of Northwest Wyoming expedition from May 19 to September 13, 1873—Continued.
§
# g
§ e :
Station. § 35 E
s # 5 3
d QD O § 3
* 5 : | {
ſº 8– pi | <
amp 32 ------------------------- July 27 | 11 0 a.m. || 25.078 70.8
Camp 33, (5,845'). ----------------- July 27 || 6 0 p.m. || 24, 536 69. 1
7 0 p.m. || 24. 544 | 66.5
July 28 || 7 15 a.m. || 24. 537 60.3
11 0 a. m. 24. 529 76
Camp 34, (6,042') ------------------ July 28 || 6 0 p.m. || 24, 357 || 71
p 34, (6,042') y 7 0 p.m. || 24, 344 58.6
July 29 || 6 15 a.m. || 24, 332 52.6
1 0 p.m. || 24, 263 79
\, 2 0 p.m. || 24, 240 || 74.4
6 0 p.m. || 24. 203 || 65. 7
July 30 || 6 20 a.m. || 24, 213 || 53.9
Camp 35, (6,319'). ----------------. July 30 2 0 p.m. || 23. 800 75
6 0 p.m. || 23, 784 66
July 31 5 0 a.m. || 23, 790 || 35.5
7 0 a. m. 23, 818 || 71.5
10 45 a. m. 23, 822 || 74.6
Camp 36, (6,683).---------...-----. July 31 || 4 35 p.m. || 23. 500 67.5
7 0 p.m. || 23. 492 || 58
Aug. 1 || 4 30 a.m. || 23.509 || 34.2
5 15 a. m. || 23, 530 || 33.5
Summit of Sailor Mount, (10,046’). Aug. 1 || 9 30 a.m. || 20, 880 || 61
10 0 a. m. 20. 893 || 64.5
12 m . . . . . 20. S93 || 62. 7
Camp 36, (6,683') ------------------ Aug. 2 5 0 a.m. || 23.599 || 34
- 6 30 a. m. || 23. 616 || 35
Summit of Pass, (9,444') - - - - - - - - - - - Aug. 2 || 2 0 p.m. || 21.340 | 67
Camp 37, (8,940') - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Aug. 2 || 7 45 p.m. || 21. 786 || 56.2
Aug. 3 || 6 30 a.m. || 21.706 || 44
Summit of Pass, (9,444')...... . . . . . Aug. 3 || 9 0 a.m. || 21. 288 || 60
Camp 37, (8,940) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ug. 3 || 1240 p.m. || 21. 766 75
6 0 p.m. || 21. 709 || 61
Aug. 4 || 5 || 0 a.m. 21.640 || 47.5
6 30 a. m. 21. 648 || 50.5
Camp 38, (7,564) ------------------ Aug. 4 || 4 0 p.m. 22. 692 || 56.8
7 0 p.m. 22. 702 || 51.2
Aug. 5 || 7 0 a.m. 22. 798 || 48
12 m - - - - - - 22.839 || 63. 8
2 0 p.m. || 22. 848 62.5
§ CLOUIDS. WIND
# ,
§ * * g
##| # | # à 3
© & --> *
3 à | * º rd C 3 g
§ Łº & .5 g .#: 5
P S | P: $4 -: ſº ſt
67.5 |. -----|- - - - - - Cumulus. --------...--------- 3 | Southwest . . . . | 1
67 l. - - - - - - - - - - - Cumulus, nimbus . . . . . . -----| 6 ||------...--------- 0
65. 7 - - - - - - - - - - - - Nimbus, cumulus . . . . . . . . . . . 9 | South . . . . . . . . . 1
59.6 |. -----|- - - - - - Cumulus. ------------------- 1 | South . . . . . . . . . 2
68, 5 - - - - - - - - - - - - Cumulus. ------. ------------ 7 | Northeast. . . . . 1
67 - - - - - - - - - - - - Cumulus, cirrus, nimbus. . . . 7 | Northeast. . . . . 1
59 - - - - - - - - - - - Cumulo-stratus - - - - - - - - - - - - - 4 || --------------- 0
52.5 1. - - - - - - - - - - - Cumulus. ------------------- 1 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
74.5 - - - - - - - - - - - - Cumulus.------------------. 5 | West - - - - - - - - - 1
72 |. -- - - - - - - - - - Cumulus. -----...-------- - - - - 7 | North . . . . . . . . . 2
64. 5 |. - - - - - - - - - - - Cumulus, nimbus . . . . . . ----- 9 | North. . . . . . . . . 1
65, 5 || -- - - - - - - - - Cumulo-Stratus. -- - - - - - - - - - - # | West . . . . . . . . . l
72. 3 |. -----|- - - - - - Cumulus.----. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 || --------------- 0
65.6 |. -----|- - - - - - Cumulus, nimbus. . . . . . ----. 8 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
36, 5 |------|--|--|--|-- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 0 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 0
56.5 |. -----|--|--|--|-- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 0 | West . . . . . . . . . 1
72.5 |. -----|- - - - - - Cumulus. ------------------. 2 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
66.5 1. -- - - - - - - - - - Cumulus. -- . . . . . . ----------- 3 | North . . . . . . . . 1
57. 4 |. -- - - - - - - - - - Cumulus. -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 1 | Northwest . . . . . 1
34 || -----|- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 0 ---------------. 0
33 1. -----|-- - - - - Cirro-cumulus - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 1 | Northwest - - - - | 1
56 |. -----|- - - - - - Cumulus.------------------. 1 | South . . . . . . . . . 1.
58 |. -----|- - - - - - Cumulus. ------------------. 2 | South. --- . . . . . 1.
60 l. - - - - - - - - - - - Cumulus. ------------------. 7 | South. - - - - - - - - 1
34 |. -----|--|--|--|------ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 0 | North . . . . . . . . 0
35. 5 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 0 | North . . . . . . . . 0
* * * = = < | * * * * * * | * * * * * * Cumulus. - - - - - - - - - - - - - ------| 1 | West - - - - - - - - - 2
s = as as a sº I = * * * * * | * * * * * * | * as sº as s ºf s = * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 0 | East . . . . . . . . . . . 0
44, 5 |------|------|------------------------------ 0 | East - - - - - - - - - 0
59.5 ! ------|------|------------------------------ 0 West . . . . . . . . . 1
67.5 |------|-- - - - - Cumulus. ------------------. 2 |------ • * * * * * * * * * 0
60.6 ||------|-----. Cirrus ---------------------- 1 | North . . . . . . . . 1
48.5 ! ------|------ Cirro-cumulus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 | Southeast . . . . . 1.
52 |. -----|-----. Cirro-cumulus ---------...--. 9 |---------------- 0
56.5 57.5 51.8 | Cumulo-stratus . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 | Northwest - 1
51.2 53.1 : 50 Nimbus. . . . ------...--------- 10 ---------------- 0
48. 3 || 51 49 Cumulo-stratus . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 | North . . . . . . . . 0
64. 1 || 62.5 55 Cumulus.------------------. 5 | East-southeast 0
62 ------|------ Cumulus, nimbus - - - - - - - - - -. 8 | East-southeast| 1 |
Remarks.
Heavy shower to south.
Thunder to north.
Light showers.
Light dew.
Light frost.
Smoky.
Thunder; a few drops rain.
Drizzling rain.
Thundering in the north.
i


6 0 p.m. 22.825 | 61.8 ſ 61.8 62.7 54.3 | Cumulo-stratus ... --...----. 5 |---------------. - - sº e
9 0 p.m. || 22,828 54.5 || 53.5 |......]. - - - - - Cumulo-stratus ...----------- 7 | West . . . . . . . . . - - º &
Aug. 6 || 7 0 a.m. || 22.846 || 51.5 50.5 - - - - - - - - - - - - Cumulus-------------------. 2 | South . . . . . . . . . 0
2 0 p.m. || 22.838 || 67.5 | 66 |. . . . . . . . . . . . Cumulus.------------------. 4 | South . . . . . . . . . 0
6 0 p.m. 22. 794 | 62.2 62.7 63 50.1 ! Cumulus. ----. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 | Southeast . . . . . 0
9 0 p.m. || 22. 760 46.5 46.5 || 48.3 || 43 Cumulus. ------------------. 2 | North. . . . . . . . . 0
- Aug. 7 || 7 0 a. m. 22. 734 || 49 47 51. 4 46.5 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -. 0 | South . . . . . . . . . 0
Camp 39, (7,492') -----------------. Aug. 7 || 7 0 p.m. || 22. 701 | 61.4 53 |... ---|--|--|--|- - - - - - - - - - . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0 ---------------- 0
Aug. 8 || 6 0 a.m. || 22. 734 35 | 37 |. ----. |. -----|-- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 0 --------------- 0
-> 12 m . . . . . . 22, 813 | 66.5 65 |------|------|------------------------------ 0 | South - - - - - - - - - I
Aug. 9 || 7 0 a. m. 22.851 47.5 | 40 40 37 Cirro-stratus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 | South . . . . . . . . . l
2 0 p.m. || 22. 886 67.5 | 72 . . . . . . . . . . . . Cirro-stratus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 | South. . . . . . . . . 1
3 0 p.m. || 22.892 || 72 70, 8 || 70.8 49.5 | Cirro-stratus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 | South. . . . . . . . . 1
6 15 p.m. || 22.870 | 66 66.5 | 66.5 50.5 | Cirro-stratus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 ---------------. 0
Aug. 10 530 a.m. || 22, 844 || 33 31.5 31, 5 30, 5 || Cirro-stratus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 ---------------. 0 | Thin layer of ice.
Camp 40, (7,908) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Aug. 10 || 6 0 p.m. || 22.491 67 62. 6 || 62.6 ſ 51.5 | Cirro-cumulus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 | West . . . . . . . . . 0
- - Aug. 11 || 7 0 a. m. 22.484 || 51.5 52 52 47 Cirro-stratus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 ---------------. 0
2 0 p.m. 22.478 || 71 68. 5 | 68, 5 || 49 Cirro-stratus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 | Northwest. . . . . 0
6 0 p.m. || 22. 455 60.2 || 60.4 60, 4 || 52, 5 | Cumulo-stratus . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 | Northwest - - - || 0
Aug. 12 || 5 15 a.m. || 22. 389 || 47.6 || 48.5 |. . . . . . . . . . . . Nimbus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 l. . . . . ----------. 0 | Drizzling.
2 0 p.m. || 22.407 || 61.5 || 59.5 59.5 54, 5 | Cumulus, nimbus . . . . . . . . . . . 9 | West . . . . . . . . . 1 Clearing up.
7 0 p.m. 22, 409 || 54. 7 || 52. G | 52, 6 49.5 |. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0 ---------------. 0
Aug. 13 6 0 a.m. || 22, 450 43. 1 || 44 |... . . . . . . . . . Cumulus . . . . . * * * - - - - - - - - - - - 10 | East . . . . . . . . . 1
Camp 41, (5,741'). ------...--------. Aug. 13 || 7 20 p.m. || 24, 283 63 57. 1 |.-----|------ Cumulo-stratus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 | South . . . . . . . . l
Aug. 14 9 30 a.m. || 24, 374 60, 5 63. 1 63, 1 55 Cumulus. . . . . . .------------. 9 | North . . . . . . . . 1
1 0 p.m. || 24, 355 | 67.6 | 66.5 |. . . . . . . . . . . . . Cumulus, nimbus . . . . . . . . . . 8 || North . . . . . . . . 2
2 0 p.m. || 24, 373 || 60 59.5 59.5 52.5 | Cumulus, nimbus . . . . . . . . . . . 10 | West . . . . . . . . . 3 | Threatening.
6 40 p.m. || 24. 421 || 56.8 55 55 51 Cumulo-stratus . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 | Northwest . . . | 1 || Steady rain from 2 to 4 p.m.
Aug. 15 | 12 m . . . . . . 24. 404 | 66.2 || 65 | . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cirrus, cumulus . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 ſ. --------------- 0
6 30 p.m. || 24. 330 | 64. 5 64, 5 |- - - - - . . . . . . . . | Cirrus, cumulo-stratus . . . . . . 9 | West . . . . . . . . . 1
Aug. 16 || 6 0 a.m. | 24, 335 | 43.5 || 43.5 |... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0 ---------------. 0
2 10 p.m. || 24, 302 || 79.5 77 77 61, 5 | Cumulus. --...--------------. 2 West . . . . . . . . . 1 Thunder-shower with hail,
2.30 to 3 p. m.
Aug. 17 | 530 a.m. | 24, 342 39.5 | 39.5 |... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ----------. 0 | Southeast. . . . . 1
10 50 a. m., 24, 334 || 70 67 l. -----|-----. Cumulus. ------------------. 4 |---------------- 0
Camp 42, (5,813') - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Aug. 18 || 7 0 a.m. | 24, 198 || 48.8 49. 1 |... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .---...----------. 0 | Southeast. . . . . 0
2 15 p.m. || 24. 166 81.5 | 80 - - - - - - |. -----|- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - . 0 | North West . . . | 1
7 30 p.m. || 24. 110 || 56 53. 6 - - - - - - - - - - -. Cumulus. ----------. -------- 1 | Last . . . . . . . . . 0
IMount Washburn, (10,105'). --..... Aug. 19 || 1 0 p.m. | 20.835 | 64.5 |... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cumulo-stratus . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 | South. . . . . . . . 3
Camp 43, (7,724') - - - - - - - - - - - - ------ Aug. 19 || 6 0 p.m. || 22. 599 || 62.7 59 |. . . . . . . . . . . . Cumulus. ------------------. 2 ---------------. ()
|| 7 15 p.m. || 22. 574 || 50.5 50.5 ! . . . . . . . . . . . . Cumulo-stratus. -- - - - - - - - - - - 2 |---------------. (,
Aug. 20 || 7 0 a.m. || 22. 592 || 48, 5 || 48.5 || 48, 5 || 44 Cirro-cumulus -- - - - - - - - - - - -. 1 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - , 0
2 0 p.m. || 22. 594 || 65.5 | 64 64 46 Cumulo-stratus . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 | Southwest . . . . . 2
6 0 p.m. || 22. 578 63 64 64 51 Cumulo-stratus. -----------. 2 | North . . . . . . . . 0
Aug. 21 || 7 0 a.m. || 22. 548 50 39.5 | 39.5 ! 36 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 0 | Southeast. - - - - 0
7 0 p.m. || 22. 511 || 56. 1 || 56.5 || 56, 5 || 45.8 || Stratus - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 0 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 0
Camp 43, (7,724) ------------------ Aug. 22 || 5 30 a.m. || 22, 484 || 40. 6 | 40.2 | 40.2 38.9 || Stratus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ------ | 0 | Nortlı west - - - - || 0
7 0 a. m. 22.490 46. 2 | 46.0 || 46.0 42, 7 | Stratus - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 10 | Northwest - - - - || 0
2 15 p.m. 22.490 56 56. 0 || 56 5] Nimbus. -----------. ------. 10 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 0 | Drizzling rain.
6 10 p.m. || 22, 475 || 48.8 || 48 48 48 Cirro-stratus . . . . . . -- - - - - - - - 6 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 0
Aug. 23 || 7 0 a. Im. 22. 590 || 38.5 38.8 || 38, 8 || 37.8 Cumulo-stratus . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 | North . . . . . . . . 0
Camp 44, (8,986').----------------- Aug. 23 630 p.m. 22. 615 54 53. 9 |. -----|------|------------------------------ 0 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - . 0
-
TABLE I.—Meteorological record of Northwest Wyoming expedition from May 19 to September 13, 1873—Continued.
§ ; CLOUI)S. WINDS.
5 : | 3 &
H § 3 tº g
Station. $2 Tº 2 | "º $2 | c. fe _s Q
Q * = # = p-4 p E .3
& & 8 & S | S S 2 ~ & º 5 4.
CD Q C & E | < E º- ~4-3 re: C (l) C.)
§ É 3 || 5 || || 5 º Sp à E .H 3
ſº H § | 3 | * | * | P: -: P £r.
Camp 44-------------------------. Aug. 24 || 5 15 a. m. 22, 616 || 36 38 |. -----|- - - - - - Stratus -----...------------- § ---------------- 0
Camp 45, (7,132'). --- - - - - - - - - - - - - -. Aug. 25 || 7 0 a.m. || 23, 214 || 38.5 37 ||------|. . . . . . Tog------------------------. 10 | West . . . . . . . . . 0
Camp 46, (7,373).----------------- Aug. 25 || 2 0 p.m. || 23.049 || 71. 1 || 69.2 |. . . . . . . . . . . . . Cumulus. --...--------------- 7 | North. . . . . . . . . 1
Aug 26 540 a. m. 22.999 || 42 41, 5 1. -----|- - - - - - Cumulus. . . . . --------------. * !---------------- 0
9 30 a. m. 23, 016 | 66 65.8 |. -- - - - - - - - -. Cumulus. . . . . . . . . ---- * * * * * * * 2 | West . . . . . . . . . 2
Camp 47, (8,302') . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aug. 27 | 5 15 p.m. || 22, 253 | 53.9 || 54.5 ||------|--|--|--|-----, - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 0 | South . . . . . . . . . 3–4
Camp 48, (7,365'). --...--...--...----- Aug. 28 || 7 0 p.m. || 22.852 50 46, 5 1. - - - - - - - - - - - Cirro-stratus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 | West . . . . . . . . . 1
Ang, 29 || 7 0 a.m. 22.825 | 39 34 || -----|------|------------------------------ 0 | Southwest. . . . . . 1
9 45 a. m. 22. 835 58 50 || -----|--|--|--|------------------------------ 0 | Northeast - - - - | 1
Camp near base of Mount Sheridan Aug. 29 || 6 35 p.m. || 22. 560 54 52. 3 52.3 42 |. --------. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0 | West . . . . . . . . . 0
- Aug. 30 5 15 a. m. 22. 556 || 43 44 ||------|------ Stratus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 | West . . . . . . . . 1.
Summit of Mount Sheridan, (10,156'). Aug. 30 | 11 0 a.m. | 20. 840 64 57 |. -- - - - - - - - - - Cirro-stratus. --- - - - - - - - . . . . . 1 | West . . . . . . . . . 1
12 m . . . . . . 20. 842 (35 60. 4 - - - - - - - - - - - - Cirro-stratus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1. ---------------|. * * *
Camp 49, (7,564) -------...-------. Aug. 30 || 7 0 p.m. || 22, 840 57 52 |------|------ Stratus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 | South . . . . . . . . . 0
Camp 50, (7,552') - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Aug. 31 || 9 30 a. m. 22. 859 57.5 56.2 |. . . . . . . . . . . . . Cirro-stratus. --...----------- 3 | Last . . . . . . . . . . 1.
Camp 51, (7,563') - - - - - - - - - - -, - - - - - - - Aug. 31 4 0 p.m. || 22. 836 || 69.5 | 68, 5 | 68.5 53 Cumulus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 | South. . . . . . . . . 1.
6 0 p.m. || 22. 829 || 63.5 62 62 52 Cumulo-stratus . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 . . . . . ----------- 0
Sept. 1 || 6 0 a. m. 22. 773 || 51 46 l.-----|------ Cumulo-stratus . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 | South. . . . . . . . . 3
Camp 52, (7,788) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Sept. 1 6 0 p.m. || 22, 604 || 58 50.5 ! ------|------ Cumulus, nimbus. . . . . . . . . . . 8 |---------------- 0
Camp 53, (7,848'). -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -. Sept. 2 | 730 a. m. 22. 558 60. 5 52, 8 |. -----|--|--|-- Cirro-cumulus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 |---------------- 0
Sept. 3 || 8 30 a. m. 22. 590 50 45, 6 |. -----|------ Cumulus, nimbus . . . . . . . . . . . 9 |---------------- 0
Camp 54, (8,081'). --...-- - - - - - - - - - - - Sept. 3 || 6 30 p.m. 22. 396 || 40. 5 36.6 | . . . . . . . . ----. Cumulus, nimbus - - - - - - - - - -. 9 || -------------- 0
Sept. 4 || 7 30 a.m. 22.462 || 43 44 |. -----|------ Cumulus-------------------. 7 | Northwest. . . . . . 1
9 0 a. In. 22.480 || 46 46 |. -- - - - - - - - - - Cumulus.------------------ 9 | Northwest. . . . . . 0
Camp 55, (7,575') ------------------ Sept. 4 6 0 p.m. || 22.846 || 48.5 || 45 45 43 Cumulus. ------------------- 7 | West . . . . . . . . . 0
7 0 p.m. || 22.820 42 41 41 39.5 | Stratus - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -. 1 | West - - - - - - - - - 1.
Sept. 5 || 7 0 a. m. , 22.890 37.7 34.5 34.5 33 Cirro-cumulus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 | North . . . . . . . . . 0
Camp 56, (6,892'). --...--...--...--. Sept. 5 || 3 0 p.m. || 23. 496 64 64 1.-----|------ Cumulus-------------------. 5 | Southwest - - - - || 1
6 30 p.m. || 23.496 || 50 50 50 46 Cumulus-------------------- 5 ---------------- 0
Sept. 6 6 0 a.m. || 23. 567 || 30. 0 || 32 33 33 |Fog------------------------- 10 I.--------------. 0
8 0 a. m. || 23. 580 || 38, 5 || 38 38 37.5 ------------------------------ 0 | South . . . . . . . . . 0
Camp 57, (8,917) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Sept. 6 630 p.m. || 21.884 || 47.5 || 44 |. ----. . . . . . . . --- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - * * * * | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | * = -
Sept. 7 || 7 0 a.m. || 21.809 || 33 33.5 33.5 ! 32 Cirrus, cumulus . . . . . . . . . . . . | 4 | South . . . . . . . . . 0
Mountain southwest of pass(10,625') Sept. 7 || 1035 a.m. || 20.568 || 61 49.5 |. -----|------ Cumulus ------------------. * ---------------- 0
Togwotee Pass, (9,621'). ---...-- - - - Sept. 7 | 11 30 a.m. || 21. 376 || 62. 1 || 51.5 |... ----|--.... Cumulus.------------------. 1 | Northwest. ... 1
Camp 58, (7,498) ------------------ Sept. 7 || 6 0 p.m. || 22.997 || 59.5 53.8 |.-----|-- - - - Cumulus.--------. ---------. 0 | South - - - - - - - - - 0
Sept. 8 || 6 0 a.m. || 22.980 || 31 32 ------|------|------------------------------ 0 || --------------- O
9 0 a.m. || 23.01.7 69, 5 62.5 ! ... - - - - - - - - - - Cirro-stratus. -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - 1 | East . -- - - - - - - - 0
Camp 59, (6,942') - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Sept. 8 6 0 p.m. 23.536 59 58, 5 58.5 44, 5 || Cirrus, cumulo-stratus - - - - - - 1 ---------------. 0
Remarks.
Threatening rain.
Drizzling.
Fog on mountains.
D
O.
Slight frost.
3.

º
Camp 60, (6,172).....
Camp 61, (5,750'). --..
Camp 62, (5,799') ... --
Camp Brown, (5,498')
* = as as * * * * sº sº * * *
Sept.
Sept.
Sept.
Sept.
Sept.
Sept.
Sept.
Sept.
Sept.
y
3
3
i
i
73
* - º º sº º
* * = &º tº º
& sº º sº dº sº
* * = * sº s
Cirrus ----------------------
Cirrus ---------------------.
Cirrus. --------------------.
Cirro-cumulus ------------- -
Cirrus ---------------------.
Cumulus, stratus. -- - - - - - - - - -
Cirro-cumulus -------------.
Stratus, cumulus.----------.
Cirrus ----------------------
ºn tº sº tº sº º sº º tº e º º ºs º sº tº
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
West . . . . . . . . .
Southwest . . . .
West - - - - - - - - -
8() RECONNAISSANCE OF
WYOMING.
NORTHWESTERN
TABLE II.-Record of radiation, mazimum and minimum thermometers.
Heat. Radiation.
Station. Date.
r º Terres-
Max. Min. Solar. trial.
1874.
Fort Bridger -------------------------------------- June 9 79.5 61 126.75 58
June 10 82 29 133 28.5
June 11 82. 5 45.5 142. 5 45
June 12 - - - - - - - - - - 39.5 ----------|----------
Camp 5.------------------------------------------- June 14 96 - - - - - - - - - - 140. 5 |. --...-----
Camp 6.------------------------------------------. June 15 115 ---------. 170 (?)|- - - - - - - - - -
Camp 7-------------------------------------------- June 16 88.5 ! . . ... ----- 150. 7 |. --...----.
Camp 8. ------------------------------------------- June 18 ||---------. 38.5 - - - - - - - - - - - --------
Camp 9-------------------------------------------- June 19 97 45.5 152, 5 |- - - - - - - - - -
Camp 10--------- -------------------------------. June 20 ! --- - - - - - - - 41 148 - - - - - . . . . .
June 21 90 37 149.25 | . . . . . . . . . .
Camp 12. ------------------------------------------ June 23 62 23 ----------|---------.
Camp 13. ------------------------------------------ June 24 |---------. 21 |----------|----------
Camp Stambaugh --------------------------------. June 25 78. 5 68 ----------|----------
June 26 83 36 140. 75 . . . . . . . . . .
June 27 83 38 143, 8 |. --- - - - - - -
Camp Brown -------------------------------------. July 2 82 ---------- 138. 6 |... . . . . . . .
July 3 83 66 147. 2 . . . . . . . . . .
July 4 86 49 148 |... . . . . . . .
July 9 82 50.5 !----------|- - - - - - - - -
Camp 26.------------------------------------------ July 19 |----------|---------. 161.25 |. . . . . . . . . .
July 20 ! ---------|---------- 129.5 ! . . . . . . . . . .
Camp 34. ------------------------------------------ July 29 |- - - - - - - - - - 46, 5 ----------|----------
Camp 35. ------------------------------------------ July 30 |. --------- 44, 5 |----------|----------
July 31 ||---------. 36.5 ----------|----------
Camp 36. ------------------------------------------ Aug. 1 |---------- 33 |----------|----------
Aug. 2 ||---------. 34 |----------|---------.
Camp 38. ------------------------------------------ Aug. 4 58.5 !----------|----------|---------.
Aug. 5 67. 8 39.7 ----------|----------
Aug. 6 69 46 ----------|---------.
Aug. 7 ||---------- 37 ----------|----------
Camp 39. ------------------------------------------ Aug. 9 |---------. 22.5 ! ----------|----------
Aug. 10 |---------- 30.2 ----------|- - - - - - - - -
Camp 40. ----------------------------------------- Aug. 11 ||---------- 38.5 !----------|----------
Aug. 12 ||---------- 46. 6 ----------|----------
Aug. 13 ||---------- 37 ----------|----------
Camp 41------------------------------------------. Aug. 15 - - - ------|---------- 146.5 |- - - - - - - - - -
Aug. 16 ||---------. 38.5 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Aug. 17 |---------. 38 ----------|---------.
Camp 42.------------------------------------------ Aug. 18 ||---------- 31 ----------|----------
Aug. 19 |---------- 35 || -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Camp 43.------------------------------------------ Aug. 20 ---------. 32.5 ! ----------|---------.
Aug. 21 |---------- 26 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Aug. 22 - - - - - - - - - - 40.2 |----------|----------
Aug. 23 ||---------- 33 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Camp 44. ------------------------------------------ Aug. 24 ||---------. 38 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Camp 45 ------------------------------------------ Aug. 25 |- - - - - - - - -. 35 I. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Camp 46. .----------------------------------------- Aug. 26 |- - - - - - - - .. 41.5 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Camp 47. ------------------------------------------ Aug. 27 |- - - - - - - - - - 48 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Aug. 28 |.----. . . . . 13.5 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Camp 48. ------------------------------------------ Aug. 29 |. --...----. 24. 5 || ---------|----------
Camp 49. ------------------------------------------ Aug. 30 || --------. 27 * = * * * * * * * | * * * * * * * * * *s
Camp 50. ------------------------------------------ Aug. 31 |.--------. 27.5 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Camp 51.. ----------------------------------------- Sept. 1 |---------. 38 |----------|- - - - - - - - - -
Camp 52. ------------------------------------------ Sept. 2 . . . . .----. 36 |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Camp 53. ------. ----------------------------------- Sept. 3 |.......... 37 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Camp 54. ----------------------------------------- Sept. 4 |. -- - - - - - -. 35 |. -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Camp 55. -----------------------------------------. Sept. 5 |.......... 29 |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Camp 56.------------------------------------------ Sept. 6 |. . . . . . . . . . 27 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Camp 57. -----------------------------------------. Sept. 7 |. ----. . . . . 28, 5 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Camp 58. -----------------------------------------. Sept. 8 . . . . . . . . . . 26 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Camp 59. -----------------------------------------. Sept. 9 |... . . . . . . . 42 |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Camp 60 -----------------------------------------. Sept. 10 |. . . . . . . . . . 46 l----------|-- - - - - - - - -
Camp 61. ------------------------------------------ Sept. 11 | . . . . . . . . . . 46.5 |. --- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Camp 62. ------------------------------------------ Sept. 12 |. . . . . . . . . . 34, 5 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Camp Brown -------------------------------- ----- Sept. 13 78.5 39 || -- . . -- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
81
TABLE III.-Temperature of 8prings, waters, &c.

Tempera-
Date. ture.
1873. - O
June 12 0 m. | Sand, on ridge between Big Muddy and Ham's Fork.---------------- 126
Jºne 9 30 a.m. | Sand, on divide between Big and Little Sandy. ---......... --- - - - - - - - 112
June 6 0 a.m. || Water in well at station-house, near Camp 9------------------------. 36
June 6 0 a.m. || Water in Big Sandy ------------------------------------------. - - - - - - 53
June 2 0 p.m. || Water in well at Camp Stambaugh - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 40
June 5 0 a.m. || Spring near Camp 15------------------------------------------------. 42
July 7 0 p.m. || Spring at Camp 27----------------------------------- "---------------- 44
July 2 0 p.m. || Spring near Camp 30 ------------------------------------------------ 37. 5
Aug. 630 a.m. || Spring at Camp 37 ----------------------------------- • - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 37
Aug. 4 0 p.m. || Yellowstone Lake --------------------------------------------------. 60.5
Aug. 7 0 a.m. l.----- do -------------------------------------------------------------- 56
Aug. 6 0 p.m. ||------ do -------------------------------------------------------------- 65. 5
Aug. 6 0 a.m. ------ do -------------------------------------------------------------. 58
3.x. 285—6
A S T R O N O M I C A L R E PO R. T.
BY LIEUT. S. E. BLUNT, Thirteenth United States Infantry,
Instruments—Failure of chronometers—Examples of computations.
ENGINEER OFFICE,
Omaha, Neb., January 1, 1874.
SIR : I have the honor to make the following report concerning the
astronomical work of the expedition to Northwestern Wyoming during
the summer of 1873. The observations were taken by myself, assisted
by Mr. George C. Hitt.
The only instruments used were one sextant, one reflecting circle, and
one artificial horizon ; two box-chronometers, one regulated on mean
solar time, and the other on sidereal time, were used in connection with
the sextant at Fort Bridger, and part of the way to Camp Stambaugh.
The boxes containing the sextant and reflecting circle were carried on
the backs of men in the saddle ; thus transported, the instruments re-
mained in good order, and, though they were always examined before
taking an observation, adjustment was but seldom found necessary.
The box-chronometers were also packed in the usual manner for field
transportation and carefully carried on the back of a man in the sad-
dle; but it was our experience that the slight motion that they were
thus unavoidably exposed to, so impaired their rate as to render them
worthless as a means of determining longitude. They were left at Camp
Stambaugh, and a pocket-chronometer (Frodsham, 9898) was used dur-
ing the remainder of the trip, and gave satisfaction ; its rate had been
determined at Omaha, and also at Camp Brown, before leaving and after
returning; all three results closely agreeing.
Longitude at the following places was obtained by means of lunar ob-
servations; the distance of the moon from the sun, and also from a
planet or star, or from both, being taken.
At Fort Bridger, mean of two lunars; Camp Brown, mean of fourteen
lunars; outlet of Yellowstone Lake, mean of four lunars; Camp 49, on
Yellowstone Lake, mean of four lunars; Camp 56, on Buffalo Fork Of
Snake River, mean of three lunars. -
Some of the lunars at Camp Brown were taken before departure for
the Yellowstone, the remainder after our return—the fourteen observa-
tions being taken on four different days.
To show the manner of taking the observations for longitude by lunar
distances, and for field-Work the closeness of the results obtained, I give
the observations at the outlet of Yellowstone Lake, (Camp 38.)
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 83
Observations for longitude by lunar distances, moon, Mars. Outlet of Yellowstone Lake,
Camp 38, August 6, 1873.
2 + º-, *—w *MA e- - -, º- 2 1 *-
#33 #3 : a ; : 3 : # = gº.5
2: 3 -: ź : . ... 2 . +3 £3 5++
3 * * 3 o * - 2 = = 2 # , 2- tº ~ 3.2
rzº rt ºt 3 = a - - - tº: # : - * *
Ç r-, ºr º, E ... 5 : C = < * * 2 as × -
z – 52 - E 2 2: 3: 2- .2 : * = 2 a 5 § 2 & 3
#### 33.3 # = 3 2 : 2, # 3 = == ####
.25 c. 2 ºr … cº -- .2 :- c. .2: P → .** = --> & = ob --> S > →
O C P 8– ſ: = • Q
O / / / O / / / O / // h. 777. S h. m. 8 h. m. s !. 77?). S
23 14 00 34 43 30 67 47 50 9 41 42. 5 1 0 9.5 8 41 33 7 21 25
29 25 30 29 12 40 i--------------|--------------|-------------------------------------------.
29 25 30 29 12 40 67 57 40 || 10 5 3 1 0 9.5 9 4 53.5 7 21 15.5
30 40 00 23 10 10 ! ----------------------------|----------------------------|----------------
30 40 00 23 10 10 68 4 00 || 10 18 7 1 0 9. 5 9 17 57.5 7 21 35. 5
31 58 10 21 57 50 --------------|--------------|----------------------------|---------------.
31 58 10 21 57 50 68 7 10 10 25 32.5 1 0 9.5 9 25 23 7 21 35
32 30 00 20 00 00 --------------|--------------|--------------|--------------|----------------
|
Index error of sextant, 00". Barometer, 22.824 inches. Error of
eccentricity of sextant, 00'’. Attached thermometer, 550.5. Detached
thermometer, 549.5.
The altitudes of the moon were taken at equal intervals before and after
the time of observing for distance—the same in regard to Mars; the
means of the altitudes thus obtained were used as the altitudes at the
time the distance was measured, this being more accurate than any
other method that could be adopted by a single observer.
The computations were made according to Chauvenet's method of cor-
recting lunar distances.
Longitudes for other points were determined from the error of the
pocket-chronometer on local mean solar time, its error on the mean solar
time at Camp Brown being found by computation; lunars serving as
checks upon these where the longitude was obtained by both methods,
and the two determinations agreeing closely ; the longitudes by time
can be regarded as close approximations.
The mean solar-time at place of observation was found either from
equal altitudes of the sun or of a star; Arcturus, a Serpentis, a Ophiu-
chi, or a Aquila, being generally used.
Latitude was obtained by circum-meridian altitudes of the sun, or of
the same stars as used in the observations for time. Whenever the
party remained more than one day at the same camp, latitude was de-
termined each noon, as well as by the stars at night. Here, too, very
satisfactory results were obtained, remembering that no other instru-
ment but a Sextant Was used in the observations.
I give one of the observations, and the mean of the deductions from
four others, to show how closely the results agree With each other.
Determination of the latitude, from observed double circum-meridian altitudes of the sun.
Camp 38, (outlet of Yellowstone Lake,) August 5, 1873.

Latitude deduced
from each obser- Remarks.
Vation.
Time of observa- Observed double
tion by Watch. altitude of sun.
h. m. S. O 1 / ? O f f /
0 55 4 1.23 46 -10 44 34 51. 26 || Barometer 22.S03 inches.
58 30, 5 52 30 34 57.94 Attached thermometer 65°.
1 1 4 55 30 34 58. 30 Detached thermomer 659.
4 31.5 57 40 34 55, 64 Index error of sextant +40".
6 23. 5 57 50 34 C5. 47 || Error of eccentricity of sextant 00"
8 24 57 20 34 53, 19 Watch fast of mean Solar time, 1b 01n 13s.57.
10 40 55 30 35 00, 76 Approximate longitude, 33° 15' West from
Washington.
13 92, 5 52 20 35 00.01 | Approximate latitude, 44° 34'.
15 42 48 30 34 56. 77
84 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
The latitude deduced from the mean of these nine observations on the
sun is 44° 34' 56”.59, and from the other four sets 44° 34' 47".2; 440 34'
52''.23; 44° 34' 53'.56, and 44° 34' 49".97, respectively, giving a mean for
the final result of 449 34/51/.91.
The following is the list of latitudes and longitudes determined :
List of astronomical stations,
Stations. Latitude. Plongitude.
O f f / O f //
Fort Bridger------------ • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * - - - - - * * * * * * * * * * * - - - 41 15 37 110 22 39
Camp No. S ----------------------------------------------------------- 41 54 36 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Camp No. 10 ---------------------------------------------------------. 42 7 43 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Camp Stambaugh.----------------------------------------------------- 42 29 56 108 4S 28
Camp Brown --------------------------------------------------------- 42 59 11 108 53 .51
Camp No. 21 ---------------------------------------------------------- 43 12 25 108 57 2S
Camp No. 26 --------------------------------------------------------- 43 41 00 108 50 22
Camp No. 28 --------------------------------------------------------- 44 2 30 108 51 22. 5
Camp No. 30 ---------------------------------------------------------- 44 19 15 109 7 54
Camp No. 32 ---------------------------------------------------------. 44 30 16 109 14 4
Camp No. 33 ---------------------------------------------------------. 44 28 48 109 30 34
Camp No. 34---------------------------------------------------------. 44 28 6 109 39 14
Camp No. 35 ---------------------------------------------------------- 44 28 11 109 52 13
Camp No. 36 ---------------------------------------------------------. 44 33 46 109 59 15
Camp No. 37 ---------------------------------------------------------- 44 32 45 110 10 46
Outlet of Yellowstone Lake. -----------------------------------------. 44 34 52 110 21 56
Camp No. 42 ---------------------------------------------------------- 44 56 13 110 23 30
Old Faithful, (Upper Geyser Basin). . . . . . . . --------------------------- 44 28 30 110 53 51
Camp No. 49 ---------------------------------------------------------- 44 22 26 110 18 50
Camp No. 55 ---------------------------------------------------------- 43 56 47 110 5 20
Camp No. 56 ---------------------------------------------------------- 43 51 13 110 9 10
Togwotee Pass-------------------------------------------------------- 43 46 29 110 00 57
Camp No. 59 ---------------------------------------------------------- 43 33 13 109 38 10
Camp No. 60 ---------------------------------------------------------. 43 26 45 109 14 36
Camp No. 61 ---------------------------------------------------------- 43 17 15 109 2 51

The magnetic variation could not easily be obtained very accurately
with the instruments at my command; three or more observations, how-
ever, were taken whenever the declination was obtained, in order to
eliminate errors as much as possible, and a mean of the results adopted
as the final result. They can probably be depended upon to within 5'.
Table of magnetic variations.
Date. . Stations. Declinations.
- O f
June 9. ---------------------- Fort Bridger--------------------------------------------. 17 30
June 17 ---------------------- Camp No. 8 ---------------------------------------------. 17 30
June 19.--------------------. Camp No. 10 --------------------------------------------- 17 32
June 26 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Camp Stambaugh.--------------------------------------- 17 25
July 4 ----------------------- Camp Brown. -------------------------------------------- 17 33
August 6--------------------. Outlet of Yellowstone Lake. -----............ . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 1
August 9. -------------------. Yellowstone Falls --------------------. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 ()
August 22--------------------|------ do -------------------------------------...---------- 10 1
August 26.------------------. Upper Geyser Basin . . . . . . . . .--------. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .----. 19 33
September 6 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Camp 56, (Teton Fork, Snake River). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19' 6
September 9 ----------------- Camp 59, Wind River . . . . .----------- . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 43
September 10 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Camp 60, Wind River .----------. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 36
September 11 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Camp 61, Wind River . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . * * * * * * * * * * * 18 27
September 13 - - - - - ---------- Camp Brown--------------------------------------------. 17 35
I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant,
STANEHOPE E. BLUNT,
Second Lieutenant Thirteenth Infantry.
Capt. W. A. JONES,
Corps of Engineers.
(; E O L O G. I. C. A. L. R. E. P. () R. T.
BY PROF. THEO. B. COMISTOCK.
C H. A. P. T. E. R. I.
INTRODUCTION.
Explanation—General plan of geological report—Narrative of special trips.
Before proceeding to the more special and detailed account of the
geology of the district traversed by Captain Jones during the summer
of 1873, it will be proper to devote a little space to a hasty review of
Some points connected with the trip itself, which come justly within the
Scope of this report, and which, if not here introduced, might leave
unexplained some matters of greater significance. It is also desirable
that Some explanation should be given of the causes which have led to
the appearance of the report in its present shape.
Upon my return from the field with an abundance of material, in the
form of notes and specimens, for the preparation of a report upon the
geological structure of the greater portion of the western third of Wy-
oming Territory, it very soon became evident that the labor of arrang-
ing and elaborating completely the whole of the work done in the field
would require much more time than could well be allowed me. This
difficulty would have been grave enough had the region explored been
of no more than ordinary interest; but when the wonderful extent and
variety of this section is fully realized and considered, it will be seen
that my task has thereby been greatly increased. In addition to this
difficulty, circumstances beyond my control have compelled me to work
with very few advantages of reference or comparison. As a natural
result, regretted by no one more than by the Writer, the following pages
will be found lacking in several important particulars, among which
two interesting subjects require some notice in this place. I refer to
paleontology and chemical geology, in both of which departments much
material was collected, but which, for the reasons mentioned, have been
necessarily treated quite summarily. So far as I have been able, I have
identified the fossils collected, and, in most cases, I have thus been ena-
bled to determine with certainty the formations from which they were
obtained.
PLAN OF GEOILOGICAL REPORT.
In the preparation of this report I have sought to arrange its compo-
ment parts in such a manner as to combine utility with conciseness of
expression and ease of reference. In a Work which is intended merely
as a résumé of the more important results of field-labors, it is excusable,
not to say necessary, that events and discoveries should be narrated in
the order of their occurrence, but, however easier it may be to thus Send
forth the final results, such a report can only be accepted as the fore-
runner of a more complete and elaborate treatise in the future. Though
86 RECONN AISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
indulging the hope that the ample material now in my possession may
yet yield richer fruit under more favorable circumstances, I have yet
felt, in the absence of such assurance, that the present work should
have as much of the air of a finished production as can well be given to
it within necessary limits. For this reason the plan of arrangement
adopted in the following pages is the grouping of facts and conclusions
under appropriate heads, with little or no regard to Sequence of obser-
vation, except when essential to the complete elucidation of any subject.
IEach broad division of geology and related subjects is discussed in suc-
cession, each occupying as many chapters as may be deemed expedient.
In each chapter the several prominent topics are plainly indicated by
head-lines in the text, and these, with minor topics, will readily be found
by referring to the copious index at the close of the report. This method,
which, I believe, will prove most satisfactory to the majority of those
who will use this report, will necessitate a somewhat more careful
attention than would be required by an arrangement which would allow
of more frequent repetition; but I am persuaded that if this treatise be
incapable of resting upon its own merit, nothing in the Way of mere
Composition can make it any more deserving of generous approval. It
has been thought desirable, however, in one or two instances, to give a
brief résumé or recapitulation of several chapters, as in chapter VI,
which is devoted to a general review of local geology, systematic and
economical.
The order of arrangement of the several chapters is in a measure
natural and progressive. Beginning with a notice of the physical
geography, or the resultant of all the various forces which have com-
bined to produce the present surface features, then proceeding to the
discussion of geological structure or the resistance encountered, the
determination of the forces themselves comes next in order, after which
such special subjects as are not directly connected with the geology of
the region are considered. To the latter class belong the chapter of arch-
aeological notes and the notes upon the Shoshone tribe, with a vocabu-
lary.
N ARRATIVE OR ITINERARY OF SPECIAL TRIPS.
It would be entirely superfluous to write anything like a narrative of
the occurrences from day to day along the line of march ; nor have I
thought it necessary to transcribe the greater portion of my field-notes
in the form of a journal. I found it necessary, however, upon several
occasions, to make independent side-trips for the purpose of obtaining
more extended information than was possible at all times in the imme-
diate vicinity of our trail. As the incidents and observations of these
sorties will not be elsewhere related, it will be well to describe them
without amplification in this place. Each is numbered in the order of
its occurrence.
I,-TRIP TO THE UINTAEI MOUNTAINS.
June 6.—A delay of several days at Fort Bridger, incident to prepa.
ration and organization, afforded an opportunity for a somewhat extended
trip, of which I availed myself by a run to the Uintah Mountains for
the purpose of observing the structure of that range, and with the
intention of learning as much as possible of the intervening Country
and its geology. I was accompanied by Mr. J. D. Putnam, who carried
a mercurial barometer and an aneroid, with which frequent observations
were taken. We were piloted by William Somers, a guide of much expe-
rience in this section of country. Our route, which was as direct as
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 87
possible so early in the season, lay across the southwestern corner of
the great Green River Basin, in a general south-southeastern direction.
When we left the post the Water of Black's Fork at that point was
unusually high, causing serious damage to bridges, and knowing ones
predicted the failure of our little expedition. A ride of eight miles
brought us to the crossing of Smith's Fork, which was found to be too
high for fording, and we went some distance above, where the creek
divides into several smaller streams. Even these proved difficult to
cross. One must see these swollen torrents and ford them to fully
appreciate their force and the consequent amount of sediment held in
Suspension. In seasons of heavy floods many of the mountain-streams
are Veritable rivers in size, and such they are usually named, to the
great Wonder of those who have seen them only in midsummer, when
many are almost dry. All the streams that we were obliged to cross in
our progress toward the mountains were very much swollen, and we
were not infrequently obliged to cast about for suitable places to ford.
After crossing Smith's Fork we bore southward for several miles, pass-
ing through a portion of the Grizzly Buttes,” a “bad lands” district
now made famous as the scene of the labors of Professors Marsh,
Leidy, and Cope, resulting in the discovery of numerous remains of
extinct vertebrates. This formation is more or less restricted, flanking
the edges of quite extensive benches as a kind of fringe at this point
about one mile in width. The buttes are usually capped by grotesque
lmasses of Weathered rock in the form of columns or pyramids of various
shapes, which often bear a fair resemblance to familiar objects, such as
huts, anvils, chimneys, steeples, monuments, nestling birds, &c.
Continuing our course over benches becoming broader and more ex-
tended nearer the mountains, we finally reached and crossed Cotton-
Wood Creek, one of a dozen so named within a limited area in the West.
From this point we continued our course across sage brush plains,
with little of variety, except an occasional alkali bog, in which our
mules sank to their bellies, or an alkali hole, filled with a sloughy mass
of the consistency of soft-soap, with irregular streaks of blue and yellow.
Pushing onward rapidly we crossed the divide to the slope toward
the west branch of Henry’s Fork, camping just at dusk near a fine cold
spring, in a sheltered depression upon the hill-side. . This camp Was at
an elevation of about 2,000 feet above the valley of Black's Fork at
Fort Bridger, and it was distant by an air-line nearly nineteen miles,
and by our course about twenty-two miles from the same point.
June 7.—Left camp quite early, bearing east of South toward the
mountains. On our Way we encountered quantities of fallen timber,
which very seriously impeded our progress. Between two wide belts
of this we were obliged to climb a steep bluff strewn with bowlders,
largely of red sandstone, but with a beautiful grassy summit almost level.
Passing through a narrow opening in the timber which skirts this ridge
there is brought to view an inclosed pasture of several acres, evidently
a favorite resort of the elk, judging from the number of shed antlers
which lie strewn over its surface. The view from this point is very fille,
and quite extensive. The ridge slopes rather abruptly upon both sides
to the streams below, one of which ripples through a grassy bottom, ap-
parently walled in upon all sides, with a narrow gap where the Water
* In a paper entitled “On the Geology of Western Wyoming,” published in the
American Journal of Science and Arts, vol. VI, December, 1873, I have offered an expla-
nation of the origin of this name, which proves to be erroneous. Judge W. A. Carter
states that the name originated from a report that an old hunter had there discovered
a petrified grizzly. -
88 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHIWWESTERN WYOMING.
flows out. This was pointed out by our guide as one of his favorite
places for Wintering stock. Beyond this we passed through an exten-
sive tract of fallen timber, part of it scattered over the surface of a hill
Which we descended to reach the valley of a small creek to which I have
given the name of Bog Creek, merely for convenience of reference.
The left bank of this stream for several miles has a very gentle slope
toward the creek, and it is, therefore, very boggy and dotted with stand-
ing pools, at least early in the season. The slope upon the right bank is
Very much greater and the bulk of the stream flows aloug that side of
the Valley. Passing up the stream by a gradual ascent we suddenly
reached a small belt of timber stretching across the valley. This was
but a few rods in width, and very quickly the water was found running
off rapidly in the opposite direction by a series of small cascades, ex-
tending nearly to the junction of the West branch of Henry’s Fork, not
a great distance below.
The west branch, or Burns' Fork, runs through a broad alluvial valley,
very irregularly, frequently, as at this point, splitting into four or five
parts, which again unite and separate indefinitely, causing constant
changes in the channels by the formation and destruction of islands,
peninsulas, ponds, &c. This valley is in many respects the counterpart
of the Lower Amazon, but on a very small scale. Even the fluctuations
of level caused by the tides in the mighty Brazilian stream, which I
have observed at a distance of five hundred miles from the Atlantic
coast, are simulated in this average mountain-stream in the rise and fall
produced by the alternate melting and freezing of the snows.
Directly opposite our point of approach a side valley opens, but its
stream, lugging the right bank, enters Burns' Fork some rods below.
Crossing the latter, we ascended this tributary. The upper portion of
the Valley was very miry, and we were soon in the midst of immense
drifts of the slowly-melting snows. For at least two miles our mules
fairly floundered, sinking above their knees at almost every step, until
we finally reached a high hill covered with loose bowlders, which we
ascended by a very steep course to a height of about 4,000 feet above
IFort Bridger. Descending upon the other side, a still greater slope, not
less than 1,000 feet in height, we reached the main stream of Henry’s
Fork, which here runs through a comparatively narrow gorge. It was
my Original intention, after crossing, to push on as far as good forage
existed, and there leaving the mules in charge of the guide, to proceed
with Mr. Putnam to make the ascent of Gilbert's Peak, one of the most
accessible elevations, with an altitude of 13,250 feet. To accomplish
this I soon saw was impossible; for the swollen creek, with its fierce cur-
rent, was rapidly rising, and we dared not attempt its passage. Indeed,
We had barely time to kindle a fire and partake of a hasty meal ere
we were forced to climb the hill by the flooding of the narrow valley.
Baffled in our purpose, we could only make up for our disappointment
by returning by a different route. We retraced our steps, however,
with little divergence until we reached the valley of West Branch, which
we crossed, camping near the entrance of the Cascade Creek before
mentioned.
Game in great variety is plentiful in this section; deer, elk, bear, and
grouse of several kinds being quite common, particularly in the neigh-
borhood of Burns' fork, while antelope, and some varieties of grouse,
frequent the grassy benches nearer the plains. While at this camp a
large drove of elk came very near to feed upon the rich grassy bottom,
and all of the game in this vicinity seemed remarkably tame.
June 8.—We crossed the low divide to Bog Creek, following it down
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 89
near its junction with one of the forks of Sage Creek, to which I will refer
under the name of Meadow Brook. Bog Creek Valley continued swampy
upon its left bank, widening gradually until we left it, when it descended
more rapidly from 50 to 100 feet into the terraced valley of Sage Creek.
Crossing the latter, we bore northwest for several miles, gradually veer-
ing to the north and northeast, crossing benches, descending as by an
irregular succession of steps, until we reached our camp at Fort Bridger.
A short distance beyond Sage Creek we came upon a small camp of friend-
ly Ute Indians returning to their reservation from a visit to Fort Bridger
for trading purposes. We found our party in Camp 2, having been
driven from Camp 1, on lower ground, by the overflow of the stream
during our absence. The whole distance traveled upon this trip was
not far from one hundred miles.
II.-RED CANON ROAD ALONG DEEP CREEK.
June 29.-Just beyond Camp 15, on Twin Creek, the road forks; one
branch, called the Red Cañon road, passing by a very steep hill down
into the narrow valley of Deep Creek, while the other follows a mono-
clinal valley farther from the mountains, which leads by a more direct
course to the crossing of the Little Popo. Agie near Murphy’s Ranch.
The train took the latter route, and I followed the former with a small
escort. Deep Creek flows through a narrow valley or caſion, originally
a monoclinal valley, bounded upon one side by a carboniferous ridge
with precipitous bluffs of Triassic red sandstone upon the right, prob-
ably extending upward into conformable beds of Jurassic sandstone of
a lighter color. The whole valley, for a considerable height, has been
filled in with red drift material, through which the stream has cut nearly
to the base, leaving a series of terraces high up on the ridges. The
name appropriately refers to the manner in which the present stream
has cut through its bed; for in some places the narrow creek runs through
a gorge With almost vertical sides, at least 20 feet in height, making a
Veritable Cañon in the soft material of the drift, a form of erosion which
is somewhat peculiar under such circumstances.
This walley lies very favorably for irrigation, as it receives several
fine streams from the mountain-side of the Caſion, where the descent is
rather gradual. Several fine gardens are here tilled, affording a choice
and varied supply of “truck” for consumption at Camp Stambaugh,
Miner's Delight, and the settlements in the vicinity of South Pass. Six
or seven miles below its source, Deep Creek joins the Little Popo-Agie,
almost at a right-angle, just beyond the point at which the latter emerges,
with considerable force, from a grand old cañon cut through the lime-
stone ridge. From this point we followed down the left bank of the
Little Popo. Agie River to Murphy's, where the main party joined us, and
made Camp 16. The valley of the river, as it may be styled, pursues a
nearly straight course away from the mountains until it reaches a point
below Murphy's Ranch, when it is deflected greatly to the left for some
distance, cutting diagonally through the next ridge. This, and other
interesting features of these streams, have a peculiar interest to the stu-
dent of dynamical geology, and they will be further considered in con-
nection with that subject in another chapter.
III,-TRIP TO NUCLEUS OF WIND RIVER, MIOUNTAINS FROM CAMIP BROWN.
July 5–8–Left Camp 18, at Camp Brown, with Doctor Parry, Messrs.
Le Hardy, Putnam, and Jewett, and Somers, my own object being the
90 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
study of the structure of the range at this point from nucleus to exterior.
As in all other cases, I give here only the incidents and general obser-
vations of the trip, reserving for future chapters the discussion of geo-
logical structure and topics of a special nature. At the kind suggestion
of Doctor Irwin, the much-esteemed and highly-successful Indian agent
of the eastern Shoshone reservation, we directed our course toward a
prominent land-mark in the nucleus known in the neighborhood as
Chimney Rock. Passing for five miles over a comparatively level tract,
with abundant evidence of ancient glacial action, we followed a well-worn
wood-choppers' road, which led us upward for three-quarters of a mile
Over the regular surface of a ridge of carboniferous linestone with a
slope of 20°, (1,900 feet to a mile.) From the top of this we descended
several hundred feet only to climb another ridge of older rocks, and so
on, ridge after ridge, until the last (i. e., the earliest formed) exposures
of the unchanged sedimentary rocks had been passed, when we struck
through the metamorphic series, and thence into the granitic nucleus.
We were fortunate enough to find our way into a magnificent park,
which afforded fine pasturage for our mules, which we rode as far as
practicable, leaving them at our second camp to make the ascent of
the ridge on foot. This feat proved much more tedious and difficult than
we had anticipated, though it was accomplished in a shorter time than
we had supposed possible. Mr. Le Hardy and myself left the camp
toward evening, hoping to reach a point half way up the first ridge
before dark; but we were much surprised to find that the distance to the
summit was less than estimated from below, so that we were able to build
our signal-fire just at dark, near the edge of the timber-line, at an alti-
tude of 10,500 feet. The first part of our way lay for a short distance
through a treacherous bog, partly covered with icy-cold water, which,
safely crossed, gave place to a long stretch of huge granite bowlders
irregularly tumbled together, making it necessary to make steps of
unequal lengths, occasionally leaping, now up, now down, in places where
a misstep was of serious consequence. Oftentimes it became necessary
to force our way through dense thickets of small but springy under-
growth, reminding one strongly of the impenetrable laurel-brakes of the
Alleghanies. After this experience, the long steep climb, through a
forest strewn with the dead pine-needles, rendering a sure foot-
ing all but impossible, was welcomed as a pleasant variety. This
was succeeded by a long, perilous stretch of melting snow, in huge
drifts, covering quantities of bowlders, ready at any moment to start
from their places and go hurling down the almost vertical declivity
thousands of feet into one of those clear, cold lakes that are to be found
only in these far-off mountain-fastnesses. It was impossible to climb
directly up this slope, and we were obliged to pursue a long diagonal
course to the summit. Finally, we passed beyond the snow, continuing
our course over less dangerous but not less tiresome bowlders, until we
had reached a point several hundred feet above the timber-line, where
there grew some small patches of straggling cedars. Here we kindled
a roaring fire, and spent the night. Next morning very early we pushed
on and succeeded in reaching the “chimney’ before the mist had Com-
pletely obscured the surrounding country. The summit of this isolated
mass of rock can only be reached by climbing in the rear to a narrow
cavernous opening well toward the top, through which it is necessary
to crawl, or, more properly, to drag one's self. The front of this is a
very narrow ledge, more than 500 feet from the débris below, which
leads to a series of rough, irregular steps by which the top can be
gained with caution. From this point, 11,853 feet above the level of the
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMIN G. 91
sea, we obtained a view of the whole country north and east of the
mountains for a distance of one hundred and fifty miles. In front lay
the Owl Creek Mountains, with the Wind River like a thread between,
and far in the background the Big Horn range with its prominent peaks
towering high in air. To the north the Sierra Shoshone and the exten-
sion of the Rocky Mountain divide appeared to meet, and no doubt we
saw many high peaks far beyond, which seemed to form portions of one
of these chains.
The return-trip was but a repetition of the experiences already nar-
rated, with the addition of much discomfort arising from the short sup-
ply of provisions, which gave out before we started backward. The
total distance traveled was about thirty-five miles.
IV.—TO WASIIAIXIE NEEDLES, SIERRA SIHOSHONEE.
Long before reaching the Owl Creek Mountains we had in view what
appeared like a double peak lying beyond, and rising much ligher than
the main crest of that range, and this assumed so much importance in
the topography and geology of the country that a party was organized
under the direction of Captain Jones for the purpose of visiting it.
Though one of the most interesting excursions made during the trip,
there is no call for description here, as it will be given in the general
Teport of the expedition. We left Camp 26 on the 18th of July, travel.
ing in all more than sixty miles, and returning July 20, . The peak was
ascended to a greater or less height by each member of the party, the
highest point reached being over 12,000 feet above sea-level. The geo-
logical results of this excursion will be found in the recapitulatory chap-
ter on the general geology of the whole trip.
V.—TO STEAMIBOAT SPRINGS, ON YELLOWSTONE LAKE, ETC.
August 6.—From Camp 38, at the outlet of Yellowstone Lake, I went
alone to Steamboat Springs, an interesting locality upon the lake-shore,
about three miles above the mouth of Pelican Creek. In order to make
much headway in this vicinity it is necessary to follow, as closely as
possible, in most cases, the lake shore or the valleys of the larger
streams. By crossing the marshy valley of Pelican Creek rather near
its mouth and crossing a wide belt of fallen timber, I saved two or three
miles in the distance by the usual trail, but the time occupied in reach-
ing my destination was largely increased. The groups of hot and cold
springs at Steam Point and in the neighborhood are rather numerous,
but many of them are very insignificant when compared with those in
other localities. Like nearly all of the groups within the Yellowstone
Park, however, they present peculiar and distinctive features of their
own. Among these none is more interesting than the Steamboat, the
noise of which So closely resembles the puffing of a small lake-steamer
that one involuntarily casts a longing eye over the surface of the Water
in the hope that such is really there. This sound is produced by the
escape of vapor, under pressure, from a small orifice in a cavernous
opening in the rocks. A short distance beyond the vapor issues from a
kind of cavern near the Water's edge, with a seething sound as it comes
in contact with the Waves, and this adds greatly to the effect, simulat-
ing very closely the escape of Waste-steam from a boiler on a windy
day. -
My work at the springs was completed by 4 o'clock, when I endeav.
ored to pass in a straight course to a point on Pelican Creek, Several
92 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTH WESTERN WYOMING.
miles above its mouth, but I was so delayed by the fallen timber that I
was barely able to reach a favorable camping spot on Sulphur Pond,
not more than two miles in a direct line from Steam Point, before night
set in. I selected a delightful place at the edge of a small grove of
trees near the mouth of the eastern inlet of the pond. My camp was
upon a Well-worn game-trail, which led up a bluff within a few feet of
the fire. Being much fatigued, I turned in early, but, when fairly in a
doze, I Was aroused by the frightened movements of my mule picketed
near by, and I presently heard the doleful howl of a large wolf, which
Was slowly approaching along the trail. In auticipation of a trifling
adventure, I lay down again with my carbine close at hand. It was late
in the morning when I woke, and all was quiet; but a little investiga-
tion showed that the animal had been lying in the grass at the edge of
the bluff, just above my head. This locality seems to be a favorite
resort of many animals. Our train approached it by following a promi-
ment game-trail, at least a dozen of which, extending for miles into the
forest, meet at this point. Upon my first visit to this place, the day
before the passage of the train, fresh tracks and other unmistakable
signs of their presence were visible. To-day I started numbers of elk
while passing through the fallen timber, not far from some active
boiling springs. This is probably explained by the fact that there are
here a number of cold springs containing sodium chloride, or common
salt.
During the night a very heavy mist enveloped the pond like a cloud.
It was quickly dispelled by the heat of the sun in the morning.
August 7.—Followed up the small creek near camp for two miles and
attempted to cross the divide to Pelican Creek, but I was obliged to
return nearly to last night's camp, on account of a comparatively narrow
belt of fallen timber, which baffled my utmost endeavors to pass.
Nearly the whole of the summit of the ridge was blocked by long wind-
rows of blasted pines, not infrequently forming impenetrable walls four
or five feet in height. Reaching the valley of Pelican Creek, I ascended
the stream for two or three miles, then crossing, returned, taking Hay-
den's so-called Sulphur Hills and the hot springs of Lower Pelican
Creek on the way. Arriving at Camp 38, and finding it deserted, I fol-
lowed the trail to Camp 39, which I reached soon after dark.
WI.-FROM CAMP 40 BACK TO CAMP 38, THENCE UP PELICAN CREEK
AND DOWN EAST FORK TO CAMIP 41.
Attgust 12.—Discovering, While at Camp 46, that a necessary portion
of my outfit had been placed in a cache at Camp 38 during my absence,
I determined to return for it, extending my trip so as to reach the next
camp of the main party by a circuitous route. With Mr. Creary as an
assistant, I followed back upon our trail as rapidly as possible to Camp
38, at the outlet of Yellowstone Lake, securing my goods, and camping
in a grassy Spot upon the bank of the river. As We emerged from the
timber into the open space about Camp 39, a badger, (Tavided Americana
Waterh.,) unwittingly approached quite near to us, but I did not succeed
in killing it, although I fired twice at it. About 1 p. m. we stopped for
lunch nearly opposite a group of hot springs, about seven miles below
Yellowstone Lake, upon the west bank of Yellowstone River. Here
Mr. Creary shot with a Colt's revolver a fine male of Erithizon epivan-
thus Brandt, commonly known as the yellow-haired porcupine, of which
I obtained the skull and some of the quills. From the size of the
testicles, and the presence of a peculiar white, soft, waxy secretion on
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 93
the exterior of the urinary orifice, as well as the strong skunky odor of
the animal, I judge that it was at the beginning of the rutting season.
It was also remarkably fat. When shot it was lying in the crotch of a
tree, about 10 feet above the ground. Some of our Indians, who were
then encamped upon the opposite side of the river, were rejoiced at the
gift of the offensive carcass; Luisant remarking that it was “Heap good
€6tt.
August 13.−Left camp early, making a short cut through the timber
to Pelican Creek, which we followed up along the right bank for several
miles, until, when near some hot springs, at the junction of two of
its forks, we struck a prominent trail, evidently that of Doctor Hay-
den's party of 1871. This we followed for a number of miles, but left
it before crossing the divide, choosing another route which led us over
the ridge in another place. After struggling through much fallen tim-
ber we again struck the trail upon the other slope of the divide, near
the point at which it makes an abrupt descent to a tributary of the East
Fork of the Yellowstone. From the forks of Pelican Creek the trail
leads rapidly upward, passing a series of cascades with one interesting
waterfall, the valley for the most part being rather broad and grassy.
Plentiful tracks of game were noticed, but we saw very little until near
the summit, when we met a large drove of elk and some deer. After
reaching the south branch of the East Fork, our course lay through a
belt of fallen timber, all but impassable for some distance, when we suc-
ceeded in keeping clear of the greatest difficulties by following the most
open of the very numerous game-trails high above the stream. By this
means, however, we passed unawares the junction of the north and
South branches, at Which point I had proposed to camp for the night.
It had been raining hard all day, and we camped at dark in the mud
near a mountain torrent in the midst of a dense forest, our exhausted
animals refusing to proceed farther.
August 14,-Continuing our course, four miles of excessively difficult
travel through marshes with tangled undergrowth and fallen timber,
brought us opposite the mouth of Soda Butte Creek, where we met the
well-traveled miners' trail leading to the mining district of Clarke's Fork
of the Yellowstone. Beyond this point our ride of nine miles to Camp
41 was comparatively easy. This we reached at 3 p.m., having traveled,
since leaving Camp 40, about seventy-five miles.
VII.—FROM CAMP 41, ON EAST FORK OF YELLOWSTONE, TO GARDINER's
RIVER HOT-SPRINGS, AND RETURN.
This excursion, though made independently of Captain Jones's party,
was practically over the same ground, and, therefore, requires but little
attention here.
August 15.—Left Camp 41, with Mr. Creary, and crossed the bridge
over the Yellowstone River. At the foot of a steep hill, which We ascended,
about a mile beyond the bridge, three fair-sized California raccoons
(Procyon hermandes, Wagler,) crossed our path. This neighborhood
seems to be Well supplied with these animals, as I noticed others at
points not far distant. We reached the falls upon the East Branch of
Gardiner's River Soon after 1 o'clock. I spent the greater part of the
afternoon in the examination of the structure between this point and
the springs, reaching Captain Jones's camp, near the latter, toward
evening.
August 16.-Spent the Whole day in the study of the springs, leaving
our camp upon the return about 5 p. m. Being very anxious to gain
94 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
time, we rode the whole distance back to Camp 41 the same night, reach-
ing it soon after 11 p.m., being obliged to move upon a Walk on account
of the darkness and the fragile nature of the specimens which I had
Collected.
VIII.-FROM CAMIP 42, ON YELLOWSTONE RIVER, TO HELL-ROARING
CREEK, THENCE BACKWARD TO AMIETHYST MOUNTAIN, RETURNING
TO CAMP 43.
August 19.-With Mr. Creary as assistant, I went back from Camp 42,
crossing East Fork just above Camp 41. Here we found a trail which
led us, by a very direct course, to Hell-Roaring Creek, one mile above its
junction with the Yellowstone. On the way we met with several large
droves of antelopes feeding upon the fine pasturage here afforded with
much security, owing to the irregular topography, which enables them
to seek immediate shelter upon the approach of danger. At the time of
our visit the great antelope country along the left bank of East Fork
was remarkably free from their presence, which may doubtless be ex-
plained by the recent passage of several parties of miners. Near the
mouth of Eſell-Roaring Creek we met another raccoon, which quite sav-
agely resisted an attack until it was forced to beat a hasty retreat.
After spending the greater portion of the day in the study of the geology
of this section, We returned to East Fork to camp, reaching a favorable
spot opposite Camp 41 long after dark.
August 20.—Crossed East Fork, and followed the miners’ trail up along
the left bank of the river to Amethyst Mountain, which we ascended
nearly to the summit, collecting a number of fine mineral specimens, and
returning to Camp 42, where We found a small guard in charge of supplies
left behind by the train. We proceeded to Tower Creek and spent the
remainder of the day in its éxamination, camping in its caſion for the
night. -
August 21.-Left camp quite late in the morning, and followed the
trail over Mount Washburn to Camp 43, on Cascade Creek, where I
packed my collections and prepared for an advance movement on the
following day.
IX. —FROM CAMIP 43 WIA GEYSER BASINS TO CAMP 47.
August 22.—In order to gain as much time as possible for investiga-
tion among the geysers of the headwaters of Madison River, I pushed
ahead of the train with Mr. Creary, in a drizzling rain, which continued
with occasional heavy showers throughout the day. The route followed
was mainly that taken by the train during the following days. Our
first camp was in the vicinity of a few prominent silica springs or jets,
near the point chosen by the main party next day as Camp 44. Owing
to the storm, we did not reach our destination until nearly dark.
August 23.—Took notes and collected Specimens from the springs,
starting forward at 8 a. m. Passed an area of sulphur jets, and soon
struck the old trail of Captain Barlow, (1871,) leading over the divide
to a branch of East Fork of Madison River. We then left the trail, cross-
ing the stream much above Barlow’s Ford, and striking across the
country in a nearly direct line to East Fork, crossing the latter twice
via Barlow's trail. After a hasty review of the springs and geysers of
the East Fork we visited the lower geyser basin of Fire-Hole River,
camping toward its upper end, near the White Dome Geyser.
August 24,-Visited the springs and geysers not previously examined.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 95
About noon we hastened by a short cut through the timber to the Upper
Geyser Basin, examining the intervening Springs by the way. Camped
near the lower end of Upper Basin.
August 25.—Pushed on very early to the upper end of the basin,
leaving heavy articles near the spot designated as Camp 46. With my
assistant the whole day was spent in a careful study of the principal
geysers, until too dark to work.
August 26.-Remained in the Upper Basin until 5.30 p.m., the train
having moved on to Camp 47. Rode until after dark, when we picked
our way for two or three miles on foot, leading our mules until we could
no longer feel the trail, and were finally compelled to camp about 9
miles from Camp 46.
August 27.—Moved on at daybreak nine miles to Camp 47, reaching
it just in time for a late breakfast. -
X.—FROM CAMP 48 TO MOUNT SHERIDAN, THENCE TO CAMP 50.
On this trip Imade one of a small party led by Captain Jones from Camp
48, at the southwestern extremity of Yellowstone Lake, to Mount Sheri-
dan, a prominent elevation near the sources of Snake River. We left
Camp August 29, reaching a camping-spot in the vicinity of some hot
springs at the base of the mountain, about 3 p. m. The ascent of the
peak was made by all but myself on the following day. With consid-
erable difficulty I succeeded in reaching a prominent point, several
hundred feet below the summit, when I was forced to relinquish an
attempt which had been made against the advice of my friends, on ac-
count of previous over-exertion.
The total distance traveled by myself in these ten excursions, exclu-
sive of that portion over the trail of the main party, was very nearly
four hundred miles.
C H A P T E R II.
PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
General surface features—mountains—plateaus or table-lands—river systems.
While it is true that the examination of the minute topography of a
Country, the contour and forms of relief of its surface, falls somewhat
Out of the domain of the geologist engaged in the study of the past his-
tory of the earth, it is evident that a thorough appreciation of the causes
Which have produced the present external configuration of our globe is
Only possible after study of the results. In other words, we have no
means of judging of the past except by comparison with the present. It
becomes necessary, therefore, at the outset, to devote a little space to
a consideration of Some of the results of the action of natural forces over
the area embraced by our reconnaissance. Moreover, the physical
geography of any portion of the earth's surface is closely related to its
geology, and it is consequently necessary to examine, with some degree
of care, the external features before proceeding to the investigation of
internal structure. A full discussion of this subject in all its bearings
Would, however, lead to encroachment upon the field of others engaged
upon the survey, and it is only intended in this chapter to refer to those
features which bear more or less directly upon the solution of questions
concerning the geology of the district.
96 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
Few Americans at the present day are so ignorant of the general
topography of their country as not to know that the approach to the
central portion of the Rocky Mountain chain from the east is very
gradual in most places, but it is very doubtful whether this fact is fully
realized by those who have never visited this region, and yet the
traveler in the West, unless he be provided with a list of elevations of
the principal points, would scarcely be prepared to acknowledge that in
passing Westward from Omaha to a distance of five hundred miles he
had reached an altitude of 5,000 feet above his starting-point, while
apparently traversing a level prairie. Southward, along the line of the
Ransas Pacific Railroad, the slope is even less, averaging little more
than eight feet per mile, while northward, near the latitude of Saint
IPaul, Minn., it is not more than two feet to the mile.
The ridges of the Rocky Mountain system, considered separately,
appear to trend quite irregularly, as if all attempts to arrange them into
a general system would prove futile, but when viewed as parts only of
a vast whole they are all seen to be subordinate ranges of a great sys-
tem or chain, with an average northwest-southeast trend.
The district comprising the field of our labors during the summer of
1873 is included between the forty-first and forty-fifth parallels, and the
meridians of 1080 14ſ west and 1110 west. The Whole of this tract is
within the limits of the two counties of Uintah and Sweetwater, in the
western third of the present Territory of Wyoming. For our purpose,
though not strictly correct, on account of the convergence of the merid-
ians northward, it may be considered in outline a parallelogram with a
length of two hundred and seventy-eight miles, and a width of one
hundred and thirty-nine miles. By reference to the topographical map
it will, then, be seen that the parallel of 43° north divides this district
into two equal squares, each containing 19,300 square miles, the northern
division containing the bulk of the mountain-masses, while the southern
square is proportionately free from extreme elevation, being mainly
occupied by a continuous plateau. Again, if the diagonal from the
northwest to the southeast corner of the parallelogram be drawn, it Will
be noticed that the greater portion of the mountainous country lies
within the limits of the northeastern half. The central meridian of this
tract (109° 37' west) cuts the northern square into two such halves that
the western portion contains the bulk of the westward, or Pacific-bound
waters, and the eastern half contains the greater portion of the Atlantic-
bound streams within the district, but each half also contains a Cer-
tain amount (about equal in each) of the headwaters of rivers belonging
to the opposite slope. This latter feature is somewhat remarkable from
the fact that it is caused not so much by the distribution of the moun-
tain-masses, as by the operation of apparently insignificant forces, Which
have produced extraordinary results. In the southern square but a
small proportion of the precipitated moisture is carried off by way of the
eastern slope, although less is carried westward than might be imagined
from the examination of an orographical chart of this region.
ROCIXY \IO UNTAIN SYSTEM.
The whole of this district may be said to constitute a portion of the
great Rocky Mountain chain, as generally understood, although, geolog:
ically, this term cannot properly be applied so loosely, because it would
imply that over this area all the secondary ranges belong to a single
system of upheaval ; that is to say, from such a term one might justly
infer that the whole tract was occupied by those mountains only which
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 97
were simultaneously elevated, which is not the case. It will, however,
be convenient to use the name in this sense, and chiefly because the only
portions of other determined systems which lie within this area are upon
its borders, and have not received as much attention as the remaining
ranges from the members of our Survey. The main crest of the Rocky
Mountain system, strictly speaking, passes tortuously across our field, in
Some places so nearly upon a level with the surrounding country that
its true course has only been determined after extended and laborious
study upon the part of many explorers; at other points rising abruptly
from the plains to a lofty height, with prominent peaks towering high
above the mass of the chain. The eastern slope is So gradual that the
irregularities of the crest are rendered much more noticeable than similar
variations in chains, such as the Appalachian, which rise quite abruptly
from base to summit, and at the same time these variations are in reality
more extensive. This is one reason that names of purely local applica-
tion are so common among the Western mountains, being almost neces-
sary in order to avoid difficulties which would arise from the confusion
of the main divide with ranges which, though more conspicuous, may
afterward prove to be subordinate to it, or even of another system. A
glance at any ordinary map of Western North America will show the
force of these remarks, and their application is perhaps nowhere more
manifest than in the section of country now under consideration.
The Rocky Mountain crest has been traced and mapped with consid-
erable accuracy throughout the greater part of its winding course
through the territory of the United States, from the thirty-fifth to the
forty-ninth parallel, The general direction of the axis of the chain,
northward from the thirty-fifth to the forty-first parallel, is nearly north,
but at this point it bends gradually to the west until South Pass is
reached, in latitude 42° 25' north, longitude 109° 43' West, when it is
continued northwest in the Wind River Mountains, beyond which it
follows a flexuous course, crossing the forty-ninth parallel ten degrees
of longitude west of its intersection with the thirty-fifth parallel.
The elevations of passes through the crest vary greatly throughout
its length ; Vermillion Pass, in British America, having an altitude of
less than 5,000 feet, while in Colorado the pass between Gray’s and
Parry's Peaks is reported by Whitney to be 13,623 feet above sea-
level, which is higher than any recorded peak of the divide in Wyo-
ming or Montana. The point of greatest elevation in the Rocky Mount-
ain crest within the limits of this survey is Fremont's Peak, of the Wind
River Mountains, with an altitude of 13,570 feet.
OTHER. RANGES AND SECOND ARY RIDGES.
The Wahsatch range and the Uintah Mountains belong, geologically
speaking, to a different period of upheaval to that in which the eastern
ranges were elevated, a conclusion first adopted by Prof. J. D. Whitney,
of the California survey, with respect to the Sierra Nevada range, which
was synchronously thrown up, and afterward extended to the Wabsatch
and its parallel ranges with their connected ridges, by Prof. Clarence
Ring, in charge of the survey along the line of the fortieth parallel.
Very little more than the foot-hills or outlying ridges of either the Wah-
Satch or the Uintah ranges lies within the district comprising our field,
but the relations of both to the geology of this region are so close and
important that a general review of their features Will be useful.
The Wahsatch Mountains form the boundary between the so-called
Great Basin and the basin of the Green River, including the upper por-
EI. Ex. 285 7
9S RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
tion of the valley of the Colorado. The basin of the Green and Colo-
Tado Rivers is divided into two parts by the prolongation eastward,
near the forty-first parallel, of the Uintah Mountains. The upper por-
tion of this basin (i. e. the portion north of the Uintah Mountains) is
commonly called the Green River Basin, and the southern portion has
received the name of Uintab Basin. Rising abrubtly from the plains,
the Wahsatch Mountains stand out prominently in the topography of
the country, although their elevation above the Green River Basin is
comparatively small in amount. The culmination of the crest is, how-
ever, South of the forty-first parallel in Central Utah. A peculiar rug-
gedness is produced by the deep-cut caſions which abound, not infre-
quently extending nearly or quite down to the base of the mountains,
which is but little above 4,000 feet in many places at the foot of the
Western slope. The Union Pacific Railroad in its course through this
range, along the cañons of Bear and Weber Rivers, nowhere reaches
an elevation as much as 1,750 feet above its crossing of Green River.
The Uintahs present much the same general features as the Wahsatch
Mountains, but with less of ruggedness in outline, owing partly to the
existence of fewer and less eroded caſions, but principally to the trend
of the range and its consequent structure. It should be explained that
the Wah Satch chain runs north and south with a series of parallel
ridges separated by synclinal valleys, while the Uintah range trending
at a right angle forms one immense anticlinal extending across a basin
which sheds its water southward. This fact, to a student of dynamical
geology, is alone sufficient to account for a very large portion of the ex-
isting topography. In the Uintah range there are several peaks with
elevations above 13,000 feet, and the greater portion of the crest rises
certainly above 11,000 feet. The altitude given by Clarence King for
Mounts Hodges and Tohkwano is 13,500 feet, and Gilbert's Peak,
according to the same authority, has an altitude of 13,250 feet.
Among the secondary ridges lying directly in our line of march, the
Sierra Shoshone and Owl Creek ranges are the most important.
The Sierra Shoshone in its present aspect can scarcely be termed a
range of mountains, being more properly an irregular mass of elevated
territory, longer than broad, with a succession of isolated points appear-
ing above the general surface in irregular curves. The causes which
have produced this configuration have operated since the original form-
ation of a range which is now greatly obscured. Remnants of this
partly obliterated range are to be seen in some localities, but in most
places it is entirely concealed by a thick formation of volcanic material
subsequently deposited. Several imperfect prolongations of the under-
lying range seem to stretch southward across the upper portion of the
valley of Wind River, even in one or two instances extending quite to
the foot-hills of the Wind River Mountains. This subject constitutes,
however, one of the most important structural problems of the trip, and
as such it will be more fully treated under the head of dynamical geol-
ogy in the Section upon the elevation of mountain-ranges.
In physical features, there are some points of resemblance between
this Sierra and the Wahsatch chain, but the comparison must not be
extended too far, for the similarity is less real than might be imagined
from the perusal of finely-wrought descriptions of the scenery, which is,
indeed, impressive and remarkable. A comparison of any well-cxecuted
map of the region traversed by the Wahsatch chain with the topograph-
ical map of Captain Jones will render this more evident. Unlike the
chain of the Wahsatch, the Sierra Shoshone, though not a simple anti-
clinal, has no prominent series of folds which would cause the caſions to
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 99
be cut through the mass, more or less, longitudinally, but the streams
follow the general slope nearly transverse to the length of the Sierra,
but with a very irregular northward tendency. The whole area is, to
the last degree, rugged, and scored by numerous deeply-cut gorges and
C2.1) On S.
From the southeastern portion of the area occupied by the Sierra
Shoshone the Owl Creek range extends eastward as far as the Big Horn
River. This ridge is much less elevated and generally more regular in
outline than any of the preceding, although it is not unlike the Uintahs
in some respects. The highest point is but little more than 9,000 feet
above sea-level, while in the Sierra Shoshone many peaks exceed 10,000
feet, and Washakie Needles, a high point north of the junction with the
Owl Creek range, attains an altitude greater than 12,000 feet.
Besides the foregoing there are several other ridges of more or less
importance which require at least a passing notice. These are:
1. The Téton range, a most jagged and apparently inaccessible ridge,
with a nearly meridional trend, lying in longitude 110° 48' west. This
culminates in a peak known as the Grand Téton, which is the highest
point within the limits of our parallelogram. Messrs. Langford and
Stevenson, of the Snake River division of Doctor Hayden's party of
1872, report that they ascended to the summit, 13,858 feet above the sea.
2. The Wyoming Mountains, a transverse range, trending latitudi-
nally almost along the line of the parallel of 43° 30' north, West of the
main divide of the Rocky Mountains. This ridge is sometimes called
the Green River Mountains.
3. The Sweetwater Mountains, lying east of South Pass and trending
eastward from that point.
4. Far to the northeast lies the Big Horn range, concerning the rela-
tions of which much too little is known.
PLAINS, PLATEAUS, OR ELEVATED TABLE-LANDS.
The lowest point reached during the trip was not far from 5,000 feet
above sea-level. All that portion of country lying between the various
mountain ranges, and partaking of the nature of plains, must, therefore,
be classed under the head of elevated plateaus or table-lands. Of the
19,300 square miles composing the southern half of the district under
consideration, more than three-fourths belong to this class. The area of
plateau surface within the limits of the northern square will scarcely
exceed one-third of the entire area of the square. Thus it will be seen
that the total area of table-land is not more than six-tenths of that of
the whole district; the 1emainder being occupied by mountains.
It will be unnecessary to describe in detail the several divisions of
the plateau-surface, for they will require attention in various places in
the following chapters, where their special features can be more fully
discussed. Some general remarks in this place will, however, be useful
to those who may be more particularly interested in the subject of this
clapter, and it will also be found that some subjects will be explained
by this means which would otherwise require much useless repetition.
The table-lands comprised within the limits of this district, excluding
such as are of small extent or of minor importance, are four, viz: The
Green River plateau, the Wind River plateau, the section to which I
shall refer as the Shoshone plateau, and the Park plateau, occupying a
portion of the Yellowstone Lake Basin.
The Green River plateau, as here understood, embraces the ellipsoid
tract north of the Uintah Mountains, Which, under the name of Green
"* *
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tº > * * * * *
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10() RECONNAISSANCE OF North WESTERN WYOMING.
River Basin, will be frequently referred to in this report, extending from
the main divide of the Rocky Mountains westward to the Wahsatch
range and bounded on the north, in its northwest corner, by the Wyo-
ming Mountains. For the purposes of this review, it is convenient to
take as its eastern boundary that portion of the continental divide be-
tween South Pass and the latitude of the Uintah Mountains. In reality,
however, this is a semi-arbitrary line of division, and the separation of
the Green River Basin from the Laramie plains east of the divide is
rather geological than otherwise. Accepting this water-shed, then, as
its limit, the Green River plateau occupies an area of not less than
16,500 square miles, its greater diameter extending from northwest to
southeast. Its surface is now very much broken into low buttes and
benches with intervening vales, so that the elevation varies greatly;
but as this configuration has been accomplished mainly by the action of
running water, we need now consider only the elevations of the various
divides between the principal streams. A comparison of these shows
that the plateau, as a whole, has an average elevation of about 7,000
feet above the level of the sea, and that there are several points upon
the plain exceeding in altitude some portions of what is generally con-
sidered the Rocky Mountain divide.
The Wind River plateau, as the name indicates, lies upon both sides
of the Wind River, between the Owl Creek and Wind River Mountain
ranges, extending as a triangle from below Tó-gwo-te Pass as far as the
Big Horn River, beyond which it passes out of the limits of this sketch.
Its topography is even more irregular than that of the Green River
plateau, and though not more than one sixth of the latter in extent, it
varies much more in extremes of elevation. It is safe to say, however,
that the average altitude is considerably less than that of the Green
|River Basin. The whole tract lies upon the eastern slope of the Rocky
Mountain chain.
The Shoshone plateau, extending east of the Sierra Shoshone and
north of the Owl Creek Mountains, is irregular in outline as well as in
its topographical features. In general shape it approaches the form of
a narrow quadrangle, with its length in a north and south direction.
Its extent beyond the limits of our survey cannot be great, at least
toward the east. There are several prominent mountain-peaks over
this district, but aside from these it is probable that the average eleva-
tion is less than in either of the two cases before mentioned.
Much of the area within the district reserved for the national park
comes properly under the head of table-lands, and it will be conven-
ient to describe the whole of such area as the park plateau. This will
then include all the non-mountainous country comprising the Yellow-
stone Lake Basin, with the broad valleys of many of the large streams
connected with or adjacent to it. A careful description would necessi-
tate the division of this region into a number of districts, none of
which would be of wide extent, but which differ so greatly in position
and in altitude that they cannot well be correlated in any but the most
general manner. The physical features of the Yellowstone Lake Basin
may be mentioned here, leaving the minor areas to be treated elsewhere
:as occasion may require. To the south and southeast of the Yellowstone
Lake the great continental divide, or watershed, is quite low, compared
with the surrounding country, in many places, where it must be re-
garded as forming a part of the plateau which we are now discussing.
Including this, the lake-basin has an average elevation exceeding by
several hundred feet that of the Green River Basin. Its area is not
great, and it differs from the three foregoing tracts in the amount of
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 101
timber and other vegetation, which is doubtless a result of the more
abundant supply of water. Its topography is more rounded and regu-
lar than is the case upon the “plains” before alluded to.
RIVER-SYSTEMS.
In this rapid review of those physical features of the water-courses
of Western Wyoming, upon the cognizance of which a full understand-
ing of many points in its geology depends, it will be advantageous to
narrate the facts, as nearly as possible, in their geographical order, that
they may be the more readily compared with the general topography as
previously indicated. The whole of the district being highly elevated,
we shall meet only with the headwaters portion of the great river-sys-
tems, but the number of the streams will be large.
In the extreme southwestern corner of the Green River plateau, the
junction of the Wahsatch and Uintah ranges forms a double water-
shed, which, according to the laws of the composition of forces, carses
the resultant stream to flow off in a direction west of north. At this
point rises Bear River, which pursues its tortuous course northward be-
tween the parallel ridges of the Wahsatch Mountains, occasionally cut-
ting through them, until it reaches latitude 42°42' north, at a point about
thirty-five miles West of its source, when it turns abruptly south Ward
and works its Way out of the range upon the Western side to pour its
contents into the northeastern prolongation of the Great Salt Lake,
known as Bear River Bay. East of the main sources of Bear River the
water-shed from the Wahsatch Mountains is unfelt, and the streams run
northward, escaping to the plains nearly at right angles to the Uintahs.
This is notably the case with Black’s Fork, which rises well up in the
Uintah Mountains, and, in a lesser degree with Muddy, Smith's, and
Cottonwood Forks, which have their sources nearer the plains. East of
these is Burns' Fork, and other tributaries of Henry's Fork start north-
ward, but joining Henry’s Fork, and finding no immediate escape from
the mountains, they follow its cañon eastward, which receives all the
mountain-streams along its course to the junction with Green River.
All the streams originating east of the sources of Bear River, upon the
northern slope of the Uintahs, flow directly or indirectly into Green
River. The main Sources of Green River, however, originate upon the
southwestern slope of the Wind River Mountains, but it receives im-
portant tributaries from the east, and several, which come in from the
west, rise in the outlying ridges of the Walsatch Mountains, north of
the Union Pacific Railroad. The main river flows across its basin in a
general southeastern course. Green River and its tributaries may be
said to drain the whole of the plateau, for the streams of other systems
merely catch a portion of the surplus Water from the corners, and,
although in each case a source of an important river, they do not to a
great extent determine the main course of their systems. They are,
however, peculiar and important for some reasons, but it will be unnec-
essary to dwell upon them now, as they will be more fully treated in
another chapter.
Passing to the Wind River plateau, we find that it is almost com-
pletely drained by the Wind River system, which receives nearly all
the precipitation between the crests of the Wind River Range and the
Owl Creek Mountains. All the tributaries of Wind River, with their
affluents, which rise near the nucleus of the Wind River range, emerge
from the mountains through narrow caſions in the outlying ridges, cut
at right angles to the axis, or nearly So ; hence it may happen that the
102 . RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
separate sources of One of these rivers originate many miles distant from
each other, and flow together from nearly opposite directions, until they
meet to pass to the plains as one stream, by a narrow gateway, as it
were. Near latitude 430 north, longitude 108° 30' West, the Wind River
turns abruptly northward, pursuing a very direct course to its junction
with the Yellowstone River. Beyond this bend it is known as the Big
Horn River. The tributaries of the Big Horn which rise in the Sierra
Shoshone, viz, Owl Creek, Meeyera and Gooseberry Creeks, Grey Bull
and Stinking Water Rivers, pursue a general easterly course, with a
northward tendency, the latter increasing and continuing so that Clarke's
Fork, the main Yellowstone below the lake, the three forks of the Mis-
souri, &c., are found to flow almost due north for a considerable dis-
tance. The sources of the Stinking Water are so far to the west of the
more southern tributaries of the Big Horn that it drains a very large
proportion of the whole Sierra Shoshone, its branches extending far to
the Southward of the main head. Still farther to the south, however, this
range is drained by some of the headwaters of the Snake and Upper
Yellowstone Rivers, and it is in the vicinity of the point where these sev-
eral streams originate that We have that peculiar Water-shed which has
been not inaptly termed the “Crown of the Continent.”
The preceding review gives but the bare outlines of the physical geogra-
phy of a most interesting region, and many subjects have been passed
by without notice, while others have received but little attention; but
enough has been written to make a detailed review of the geological
structure of the region more comprehensible and valuable than it could
be without a general knowledge of the facts related in this chapter.
There are many of the finer features or lineaments of the surface, par-
ticularly in mountainous countries, which are apt to be overlooked or
lightly treated because of their apparent insignificance; and yet it not
unfrequently happens that careful scrutiny will prove that they have
been instrumental in shaping the outlines of a vast expanse of territory.
It would be interesting to review these in a chapter by themselves,
but it has been thought best to defer special mention until they can be
more carefully noted in connection with the subject of dynamical
geology.
C EI A P T E R II. I.
STRATIGRAPHY-METAMORPHIC AND PALEOZOIC.
Introduction—Pre-silurian era—Silurian system—Potsdam sandstone—Quebec group—
Niagara limestone—Devonian system—Carboniferous system.
In collating and arranging the results obtained in this department of
our subject, it has been deemed advisable to adhere strictly to the plan
adopted in other portions of the report, and to present topics in chrono-
logical order rather than in the order of observation. This method will
cause us to wander from point to point; but it will prevent much use-
less repetition, and give something like system to the work, which will
render it more easy of reference; and it will also render more permanent
whatever of value the report may possess.
As we proceed, it will become more and more evident that the chief
value of the determinations in this department will depend almost wholly
upon the relations which are found to exist between the rock-formations
of this section and those of other parts of the country and of other
S T ER ALT I G- ER. A. P. H. T. C C EIA E, T
- 9
T'REPARED BY
N t y-
- . T H E O DO R. E. B. C.O MS TO C. K., B. S.
AGES. STRATA, &c.
TERAS. T*ERIODS. IEPOC HS.
PIºIlíS. Animals. EäSt North America, West North America. Western Wyoming. Europe.
Coral Reefs | Bison and other Animal Remains. If Bones of Bison,©c.; Bearer Ijams, iſ Blown Sand.
Čave deposits Mounds. &c Błown Sand. | Sand Drifts and Dunes; Fallen ! Coral Reefs. .
PSYſ, HozoLC. IHIIImaru. IH [IIIºna Ił. RECENT AND PRE-HISTORIC. §§.”. 3 *** * “Alkali.” Deposits. & Timber; “Alkali” Deposits; Hot Peat. Alluvium.
iguano Deposits &c | Peat. Alluvium. | Spring and Geyser Deposits; H | Caye-Deposits. *
*7; ºva i Artificial Mounds. Stone Circles. ( Stone Circles. UILake and River Deposits.
- - tº sº - Terraces, Loess, Alluvium, and other Terraces. :* - Terraces; Peat ; Loess.
TERRACE, (Transitional.) } Surface-Deposits. { Surface-Deposits in general. Terraces and Surface-Leposits. : Old Cave-Deposits.
PIeistocene, Qua- CHAMPLAIN i.º.º. Forest-Beds Alluvium ; Modified Drift. Modified Drifts, Scattered Drifts, Marine Claws
ternary, or Post- - 1. i...º.º. º. º. Scattered Drifts. Till, dºc. ... **
Tertiary Champlain Clay ; Erie Clays.
GLACIAL. Glacier-Drifts. | Glacier-Drifts, Glacier-Drift. Glacier-Drifts.
Norwich Crag; Sicilian Beds.
tº PLIOCENE. Sumter Loams, Sands, and Clays. Loup River Group, &c. } S.º,ſº
: 3 ------ Suffolk Crag i Antwerp and Nor-
CENOZOIC. : Mammalian. mandy Crag.
R+
: Wºº Riº, and º:
- >x Ix - *† : * --~~~ * Kroups; Volcanic Rocks; Inter- # * = itynifas - - º
<! MIOcENE. Yorktown Sands and Clays. White River Group, &c. Volcanic Group, (Sierra Sho- British Lignites; Molasse; Faluns
33 Tertiary. shone.)
3
| à UPPER EOCENE. Wicksburgh Beds. Uintah Basin Beds. Hempstead Beds, Tongrien.
3 Bridger Group.
i-
C MIDDLE EOCENE. | Jackson Beds. |Baris Eocene; Nummulitic Beds.
: Part or whole of Fort Union,
OT -
F. * *r- - Great Lignite Group 3 Greezi River Beds. London Tertiary; Glauconie In-
C LOWER EOCENE. Claiborne Beds. P férieure.
*:::
Ç
<!
New Jersey Greensand. Fox Hills Group. *** Senomien, White Chalk, and Maes-
- TJPPER CRETACEOUS. Alabama Beds. IFort Pierre Group. Green River Coal Group. tricht Beds.
4 Marine Cretaceous (in part.) Green Y- } . 4.
MIDDLE CRETACEOUS. Lower New Jersey and Alabama Beds. É.º.º.roup. } River Basin, Wind River Valley, - º: *. º, omanien.
Cretaceous. and elsewhere. -
j T - - -
4. { LOWER CRETACEOUS. Absent | Absent f .. Absent 3 tºº eocomian ; Lower Green
- - } --
–. WEALDEN. Absent 7 | Absent : | Absent? Wealden Beds; Lower Necomian.
Mt (ESO ZOIC. Reptilian. - -
- UPPER OOLITE. Absent. Portland Oolites. $º White
i , . - * 2- XIiddle White .
- - - H º º Jura.
MIDDLE OOLITE. Absent. ford Oolites. *
- * Li Se]] * (Limestone and Arenaceous Beds Oxford Oolites Y 1. Lower White
Cº. (Jurassic Calcareous and Arenace- Wind Fº Wałle Uintañ - t Jura.
> - ; ous Beds of Nebraska, Colorado, | farer (Ittey, in
* ** Jurassie. Wvomiug. Utah, Nevada, Cali- Jſountains, and east of Sierra
F. l fornia. &c. º * * * | Shoshone not get divided into
P- 3 *-*** * groups. | 2. P. (f ºper
$º - I’ſ] W Il ºſ III":l.
9. LOWER OOLITE. Absent. Bath Oolites. Y 1. Middle Brown
: :* U Jura.
:
* LIASSIC. Absent. º: Lias, Black Jura, &c.
C #-
E.
: REUPER. + Reuper; Grès Bigarré.
ODInêCtl Cut K1 VéI UOng IOmērates, Shales rick-red Sandstones, &c., Rocky rick-red an tºff? SºldişţGnes
(C {j Congl tes, Shales, ſº d Sandsto à . ( Brick-red and Buff? Sands
- * MUSCHELKALK. } and Sandstones; North Carolina Upper Monntain region and in most o ; and other beds, Wind Rirer Wal- Muschelkalk; Calcaire Coquillier.
Triassic. § Red Sandstones, Coal - Measures, and the States and Territories West- i ley, Shoshone Plateau, dºc., not IlSČite Kä 1re Coquiller
t Lower Red Sandstones. Ward. +- distinctly defined.
BUNTER SANDSTEIN. ; Bunter Sandstein; Marnes Irisées-
- Magnesian Limestones, &c. Magnesian Limestone ; Zech-
Permia II. PERMIAN. | Absent. } Kansas, Nebraska, Wyoming, &c. Doubtful. tein.
UPPER COAL-MEASURES. | Upper Coal-Measures. + Tºpper Coal-Measures.
- Limestones and Årenaceous Beds, Dolomitic Limestones and Arena-
Amphibian, or Car- Carboniferous. LOWER COAL-MEASURES. Lower Coal-Measures. | Rocky Mountain region, east: ceous and Argillace0tts beds of Lower Coal-Measures.
boniferous Y ward and westward, not divided wncertain affinities, Wind River
* l into groups. Valſey.
cºstrºnous CONGLOMER- | Carboniferous Conglomerate. Millstone-Grit.
% TJPPER SUB-CARBONIFEROUS. | Sub-Carboniferous Limestone. E- Sub-Carboniferous 2 3 Mountain Limestone.
# sº Carbonifer- Sub-Carboniferous Beds, Utah, &c.
3 LOWER SUB-CARBONIFEROUS. | Sub Carboniferons Sandstone, Shales, &c. f Limestone. Lower Limestone Shale.
- C *
<! —- E.
ă
Fº Catskill. CATSKILL. | Catskill Sandstones and Shales.
Cº. - -
<! 5.
| CHEMUNG. | Chemung Sandstones and Shales.
Chemung. - -
| PORTAGE. | Portage Shales and Sandstones.
GENESEE. Genesee Black Shale.
- Tully Limestone. º - -. * º Tº
* - f th doubtless exist, A formation between the Niagara |ſ Barnstable and Marwood Beds
Hamilton. EIAMILTON. *...*. t Bºº, º TI ...”. Dolomite and the Carboniferous || and Upper Old Red Sandstone.
Age of Fishes, or #.'...” westward, but it is impossible Formation may represent the De- || Ciy menia and Goniatite Lime-
30 evonian. * to classify them from accessible vonian in the Wind River Mount- l stones.
data at present. ains, but nothing definite is Cypridina Slates.
3. known conterning it.
MARCELLUS. Marcellus Shale.
* Fl * - Corniferous Limestoire. :
CORNIFEROUS. | Onondaga Limestone.
Corniferous, SCHOHARIE. | Schoharie Grit.
t I 3– Eifel and Devon Limestone.
CAUDA-GALLI. | Cauda-Galli Grit.
É *
Vº Oriskany. ORISKANY. Oriskany Sandstone.
H
IPALA EOZO [C. <!
5 :
Upper Pentamerus Limestone; Enerinal -
º * -- ~~ ---. - 3. Upper Ludlow Beds,
Ç Helderberg. HELDERBERG. ºº:: º,ºTº, €*: Not reported definitely as yet. Not known to eacist. § Aynrestry Limestone.
<! - waterline Group 3. 1. Lower Ludlow Beds.
3 Salina. SALIFEROUS. Onondaga Salt Group. Probably absent. Probably absent.
P
Hº-
: º:
tº Guelph Limestone. -** lomite, Idah h
à . NIAGARA. {º}.” Sºgºra Dolomite, Idaho, Utah, Niagara Dolomite. Wenlock Beds.
: Riagara Shale.
P
Niasr
Lagara. CLINTON. Clinton Group. Absent Absent & Tºpper Llandovery.
ta + Medina Sandstone. Not reported Probably absent. L Lland
MEDINA. Oneida Conglomerate. * p - y & ower Llandovery.
Age of Worms and +-
MoHusks, or Silu- i if.
rian. | FIUDSON Hudson River Shales. - i
Hudson. Bossibly present in places. ; Probably absent.
+ | UTICA. Tſtica Shales. - |
Bala and Caradoc Group.
. Trenton Limestone. :
- TRENTON. Black River Limestone. sº
: Trenton, T3ird's-Eye Limestone. Possibly present in places. Probably absent.
2 :
# # h Limestone. -
E CHAZY Chazy Limes i Llandeilo Flags.
º
# ty Quebec Group. Quebec Group, Idaho, Montana, &c. Quebec Group.
à Calciferous. I CALCIFERocs. :-
H Calciferous Sandrock. Perhaps represented Probably not represented.
Tremadoc Slates.
- Potsdam Sandstånes, Rocky Moun- - ~~~
Potsdam Sandstones. } tain region and westward. | Potsdam Sandstones.
Primordial. POTSDAM. Lingula Flags.
Saint John's Group. Not recognized. : º | Not recognized.
| HURONIAN. Huronian System. Part of Metamorphic Series? Part of Metamorphic Series? Cambrian System.
EOZOIC. Eozoic. Eozoic.
| LAURENTIAN. Laurentian System. Part of Metamorphic Series? Part of Metamorphic Series 3 “Fundamental Gneiss.”
º * * º - º * H+h H * iod. si - *I t employed, it will be
xplanation.—Braces are used to connect sets of deposits belonging to one age, period, or epoch, but which cannot be arranged in exact chronological order, as With the accumulations of the Human Period. In all cases in which braces are no J - - 1
uniº that the several strata are arranged in i. order, as in the cases of R. *::::::::: and Hamilton Epochs, &c., in East North America, and others. Occasionally it has been necessary to use the brace, (especially in the column headed º to show
that the formations of one epoch or period are not synchronous with the special deposits of that age in other parts of the world. In such instances, the braced groups are usually numbered, beginning below, to show their relative ages with respect to each other.

|.
| . .
|
|
i -
| -
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING, 103
countries; and particularly will it depend upon their relations to the
formations of neighboring districts.
Fortunately for the writer, the explorations which have been made of
late years in this region, under the direction of Hayden, King, and
others, have rendered the tracing of the latter class of relationships
much less difficult and more certain than could have been the case under
less favorable circumstances. Although much yet remains to be done
in various directions, it is but due to these men that grateful acknowl-
edgment should be made of the value of the information which has been
derived from the perusal of such of their reports as have been consulted
in the preparation of this treatise.
To show at a glance the proper relations of the geological formations
of Western Wyoming, the accompanying synoptical table of the deposits
of the various epochs has been prepared, giving the formations repre-
senting them in different parts of the world as they are commonly named,
in which one column is devoted to the deposits now to be described.
This table is so arranged that each formation is placed in its proper
relative position to all the others; at least, so far as it can be done with
our present knowledge of the strata, and beyond this no explanation of
its use is necessary.
METAMORPEIIC ROCKS.
The question naturally arises, what is the earliest act of which any
record has been discovered within the territory embraced by the recon-
naissance % Such records must evidently be sought in the lowest rocks
which are exposed over this area. It is now scarcely doubted that our
globe has passed from a gaseous condition by successive stages to its
present form.
Accepting this view, we are prepared to find that many of the rocks
which were formed during earlier stages of the earth’s history have
been greatly altered since their deposition by the various kinds of action
to which they have been subjected. Wherever, then, as in some parts
of the district under consideration, sufficient force has been employed
to rend apart or wear away the superincumbent strata, but without dis-
turbing their relative positions, we may expect to meet with exposures
of the underlying metamorphics. These exist in quantity throughout
the region of the Rocky Mountains, but they are not well exposed in
all of the ranges. In that portion of the Uintahs visited by the Writer,
they are mostly concealed by the overlying purely sedimentary rocks,
as they are also in the Owl Creek range, though in the latter one or two
fair exposures were noticed by Captain Jones from the summit of Phlox
Mountain. In the Sierra Shoshone, it is almost impossible to determine
whether the metamorphic series ever came to light; for, with few excep-
tions, the whole section is now covered by a formation which has been
deposited since the elevation of its primary ridges. The Wind River
Mountains furnish abundant opportunities for the study of these rocks,
however, and they are extensively exposed in the Wahsatch range,
according to the reports of Clarence King, Hayden, and other geolo-
gists. The central portions of the Rocky Mountain system, or, more
properly, the crests of the Rocky Mountain chain, furnish the best ex-
posures of these rocks.
In the Wind River Mountains, as in most other portions of the Rocky
Mountains, the nucleal rocks occupy an irregularly-exposed belt along
the axial line of the range. It is at least doubtful Whether any true
igneous rocks are here exposed; for the gradations between the compact
104. RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
and the gneissoid granites, and between the latter and the gneisses and
schists, are so close as to point toward the aqueous or sedimentary ori-
gin of the whole series, At any rate, there can be little question that
the exposures of purely igneous rocks, if any exist, are of very limited
extent. It will, therefore, be convenient to consider the whole series as
composed of metamorphic rocks, although the massive granites are so far
changed from their original condition as to be structurally inseparable
from igneous granites by any method of analysis known at present.
The rock most nearly approaching the igneous is a compact, fine-tex-
tured granite, containing an abundance of mica, apparently muscovite,
with more or less of black biotite distributed through the mass; the lat-
ter, in places, becoming so abundant as to give character in color and
Imode of weathering to separate portions of the rock. These granites
seem to be associated with gneisses and gneissoid granites, varying con-
siderably in texture and composition ; and these again pass somewhat
gradually into the metamorphic schists, upon both sides of the anticlinal.
Beds of quartz and reddish and flesh-colored feldspathic seams are met
with, and quartz veins traverse the slaty metamorphics, charged with the
gold which is mined in the neighborhood of South Pass. Some portion
of these metamorphic rocks contains, besides the magnetic iron, (Fe3O4,)
which is abundant, garnets, mostly quite small, but occasionally of fair
size. These were accidentally discovered in large quantities in the bed
and alluvial bottom of the Sweetwater River, at Camp 13. The feldspar
seams in this section are mostly filled with nuggets, as it were, of mus-
covite. The quartz, in many instances, is quite pure and white; in
other cases it is darker colored and frequently contaminated by the
decomposition of pyrites.
Beginning below, or at the center of the mountain-nucleus, we have
then the following succession of the metamorphic rocks:
1. Gray and reddish granites, with masses of black interspersed.
2. Gneissoid granites, passing through granitoid gneiss to—
3. Gneisses of varying composition and feldspathic seams.
4. Metamorphic slates and Schists, with quartz veins containing gold
and silver.
5. Pre-Potsdam metamorphics.
This will serve to show the general character of the series, though by
no means intended as a complete section, which would require much
more investigation than is possible in a mere reconnaissance. It is not
improbable that a closer study would reveal many interesting facts in
connection with the origin of many of these rocks. For instance, there
is some ground for the belief that some apparently local actinolite schists
and other allied forms may have originally been the trap-dikes of the early
sedimentary Strata now metamorphosed. Some rocks here classed among
the metamorphics may be proved more recently trappeam, but it is prob-
able that such cases are very exceptional.
Other exposures of the metamorphic rocks occur along the route of
the expedition. The granites appear at the surface over a considerable
area in the valley of the East Fork of the Yellowstone, and in the val-
ley of the Yellowstone River, between the mouths of East Fork and
f{ell-Roaring Creek. The structure of this section is deserving of close
attention, for it cannot fail to add greatly to our knowledge of the dynam-
ical history of a large portion of the Rocky Mountain system. North of
latitude 43°45', and west of longitude 1099, every exposure of the deep-
seated rocks is to be welcomed as an aid in the solution of difficult prob-
lems connected with the mountain-geology, because such exposures over
a vast territory are rare indeed. There is here, perhaps, some evidence
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 105
that a portion of the granites are igneous intrusions, or, rather, it should
be said that there is less evidence to the contrary; and yet, upon the
whole, I am strongly inclined to the opinion that they are no less meta-
morphic than those of the nucleus of the Wind River Mountains. Here
We find the same general characteristics, with a similar succession of
gneissic and schistose rocks, wherever full exposures can be reached.
There is this difference, however, that not only the overlying metamor-
phic and sedimentary beds, but the granites themselves, bear traces of
further change, owing, probably, to the subsequent ejections of molten
volcanic products, which have flowed over them. This view is partially
supported by the fact that in this region there occur granites Com-
posed of the same varieties and proportions of mineral ingredients as
some from the Wind River Mountains, but differing in their arrange.
ment, and consequently in texture. This feature is also noticeable in
many of the micaceous sandstones, and in the schists, which have become
more friable, and, like some of the granites, have the appearance of
having been burned or baked. Quartz veins of various sizes occur
in these rocks, and gold has been obtained from some of them in what
appears to be a continuation northward of this system of ridges.
Between the Two-Ocean Pass and Tógwote Pass there are exposures
of a metamorphic group, which undoubtedly represent the ridge of some
mountain-range or its spurs, though it is a difficult matter at present to
define its relations to the main chains; and the same remark will apply
also to the section just discussed. Here, again, the same conclusions
may be drawn from facts quite similar; and such trifling differences as
are found to exist between these formations in the two localities may, I
think, be readily reconciled by referring them wholly to differences in
the amount of the pre-volcanic erosion. This will be rendered more
apparent as We proceed, as it will be necessary to refer more than Once
to the evident changes in texture which have been produced in the rocks
by the outflow of the later igneous material from volcanoes.
Age of the metamorphics.—Sufficient data for determining the exact age
of this series have not been collected; nor is it by any means certain
that this can ever be done. On account of the complete change which
most of these beds have undergone since their deposition as sediments,
it is possible that future research can do little more than to extend
downward the series of rocks of known age by the transfer to it of one
or two restricted groups from the upper beds of the metamorphic series.
The structure of the Wind River Mountains is, however, so regular that
it affords convincing proof of the relative age of such of these beds as
are exposed in the nucleus of that range, at least in one direction. In
other words, although it would be unwise to assert that they are identi-
cal with either the Saint John’s, the Huronian, or the Laurentian sys-
tem, as elsewhere known, without a wider knowledge of their relations,
we may confidently affirm that no portion of the whole series was de-
posited later than the formation of the Potsdam sandstone in the Rocky
Mountain region. There is a possibility that the comparison of facts
from a large number of localities in the West may hereafter lead to some
very interesting developments concerning these undetermined rocks.
Certain it is that the succession of the strata throughout the Rocky
Mountains is remarkably uniform, and a careful examination of the
metamorphic rocks over an extended area would do much toward un-
raveling their history. Uniformity of lithological characters over broad
districts is rare, even when the metamorphosed rocks were originally
identical in composition, because slight differences in the amount or
quality of action or resistance may cause great differences in the results,
106 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
There are some slight reasons for placing a portion of the oldest of
these rocks in a group nearly equivalent to the Laurentian system of the
East, but it must be confessed that none of them are based upon much
better foundation than a certain similarity to that formation in litho-
logical characteristics. Their position upon the stratigraphic chart is,
therefore, entirely provisional.
SILURIAN SYSTEM.
As before remarked, no proof has been obtained of the existence in
recognizable form of a set of beds which can be referred to the horizon
of the Saint John's group of the Canadian geologists; although it is not
impossible that some of the upper beds of the metamorphic series may
be of that age. So far as can be determined from the hasty review
which is rendered necessary in a simple reconnaissance, there are few, if
any, indications of unconformability between any of these lower beds;
but this is a question which can only be settled after careful examination
over a wide space. In the valley of a small branch of Beaver Creek, at
a point where the overlying sandstones have been cut through, the meta-
morphic slates appear in such a manner as to suggest unconformability
between themselves and the Lower Silurian sandstone, but the exposure
was so narrow and weather-worn that it was impossible to determine the
physical relations of the two groups to each other. In most localities,
the sub-sedimentary beds dip at a much greater angle than the overlying
rocks, some of the former being very nearly vertical, while the adjacent
strata are much less inclined. This, of itself, is not sufficient to prove
the unconformability of deposition, however. Until we know more of
the rocks comprising the metamorphic series, this subject of their “lie”
is of minor importance, though it will be of consequence in determining
their geological relations. One great difficulty in working out such pro-
blems in connection with a reconnaissance is that the route of the ex-
pedition must necessarily lie through the least rugged portions of the
country, in which the geological structure is frequently obscured by drift
and other later formations of mere local extent.
The Silurian system is represented by several important formations in
the region of our survey, most of which probably underlie a vast extent
of country west of the Mississippi, but which are concealed by the more
recent deposits except in places where they have been brought to light
by the upheaval of the mountains; and even here they have been again
largely buried by the accumulations of later formations of non-sedimen-
tary character. The lowest formation yet recognized is that of the
widespread—
POTSDAM SANDSTONE.
Beds of a reddish sandstone, of varying thickness, with the structural
and mineralogical characteristics of the Potsdam sandstone east of the
Missouri River, were noticed some years since by Dr. Hayden at various
places in the Rocky Mountains, from which a few characteristic fossils
were obtained in some instances. The first discovery of these remains,
announced by Meek and Hayden in March, 1858, in a paper read before
the Philadelphia Academy of Sciences, was made in the region of the
Black Hills, Wyoming, (then Nebraska.) Subsequently, Dr. Hayden
reported other fossils, collected in the Big Horn range, near the head
of Powder River, and in his report for 1870 he mentions the discovery
of others in this formation near South Pass. On the geological map
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 107
accompanying his report in connection with the expedition of Col. Wm.
I”. Raynolds, published in 1869, this formation is represented as an irreg-
ular band loounding the nuclei of all the prominent mountain-ranges.
In the colored map which I have prepared to accompany this report,
Some modifications have been made in the distribution of these rocks,
in certain sections, but they are not of sufficient importance to call for
Special notice. Unfortunately, though satisfied of the age of such rocks
as I have referred to this formation by reason of their order of se-
quence, and their lithological features, I was unable to obtain any fossils
from any of the exposures along our route.
In the Wind River Mountain district, there is a succession of beds of
a loosely granular, almost friable sandstone, varying in color from red or
brown below to white above; in texture, from a mere loose aggregation
of the siliceous particles to fairly compact sandstones; in structure, from
thinly-laminated or obliquely-laminated to thickly-bedded massive rock.
The parallelism of these beds with much of the Potsdam sandstone of
the East, even to minor peculiarities, is quite remarkable. The follow-
ing statement concerning this formation is taken from the Wisconsin
Report, (Hall and Whitney, vol. 1, 1862, page 141,) being a portion of
Prof. J. D. Whitney’s contribution to that work:
The lower sandstone occupies the same position as the Potsdam sandstone of the
New York geological survey, and is the exact equivalent of it. As developed in the
Northwest, and especially in the State of Wiscousin, where it occupies a large extent
of surface, it is made up of an almost chemically pure siliceous sand, in minute grains,
hardly larger than a pin's bead, which are held together by the minutest possible
quantity of a calcareous or ferruginous cement. Frequently even this small quantity
of cementing-material is wanting, so that the rock can be readily crumbled between
the fingers, like a crystalline granular sugar. Where the ferruginous material, which
is the peroxide of iron, becomes more abundant, so as to form 2 or 3 per cent. of the
mass, the sandstone acquires a dark-brown color, and frequently affords a solid and
durable building-stone.
This description will apply to the rocks of this group along the east.
ern slope of the Wind River Mountains. In the same relative position
to the metamorphic rocks, there occurs, in the valley of Lava Creek,
along the Western base of the Sierra Shoshone, a thick formation, com-
posed mainly of a compact red sandstone, almost a quartzite, portions of
it being entirely made up of coarse grains of bright quartz, with quite
small quartz pebbles distributed irregularly through the mass. Hay-
den also mentions a similar outcrop east of South Pass; and other
exposures of apparently the same group as that on Lava Creek are
referred to by Hayden and Bradley in the report of the Department of
the Interior survey of 1872. The rock seen upon the right bank of
Lava Creek is very hard, but it has the appearance before noticed of a
partially-metamorphosed sediment, as if it had been modified by the out-
flow of the eruptive material, which has largely covered this section,
and its imperfect jointing and consequent mode of Weathering have
probably been induced by the same cause.
Other geologists have described beds of this formation in other sec-
tions, and their remarks will often be found to apply almost equally as
well to the exposures along our route. Emmons and the Canadian
geologists, as well as Hall, Owen, and others, allude to peculiarities of
this sandstone and its associated rocks, which are strikingly repeated
in the Rocky Mountain region. Among these may be mentioned the
peculiar lamination of some of the harder brown beds, which contain
a considerable quantity of the ferric oxide cement. A short distance
beyond Miners' Delight, the present wagon-road from Camp Stambaugh
to Camp Brown passes through a hollow, upon the edge of which the
108 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
reddish-brown beds are exposed and weathered in such a manner as to
present something of the appearance of crowded shelves in tiers. This
is roughly represented in Fig. 1, which is a diagrammatic Section in the
direction of the strike of the rocks.
Fig. 1 —Style of weathering of cliffs of Postdam sandstone, Wind River Mount-
ains, near Miners' Delight. The lines all represent the uneroded portions; the spaces
between representing the eroded portions. A portion of one stratum only is shown,
hence there are no lines of bedding.
This form of weathering is doubtless owing partly to variations in
the texture of the rock, which have produced the lamination or alterna-
tion of the fine and coarse materials, but, also, to other peculiarities
induced by the erosive agencies.
The greatest thickness of the Potsdam sandstone over the area
described is about 200 feet, in the region of the Wind River Mountains.
All the beds bear evidence of deposition in shallow seas, or upon
beaches or sand-flats.
QUEBEC GROUP.
Above the Potsdam sandstone in some sections, and probably in most
places directly superimposed, occurs a set of beds which, for reasons
that will presently be given, are referred to the horizon of the Canadian
|Upper Calciferous strata, known as the Quebec Group. As exposed
along the eastern flank of the Wind River Mountains, these beds differ
widely from the underlying sandstone-formation, and they furnish
abundant proof of the deepening of the sea over the area in which they
were deposited. Their distribution is not yet fully determined ; but
some interesting hints in this connection may, if they have been cor-
rectly interpreted, go to show that, though a wide-spread formation, it
extends less regularly over the country than most of the beds below
and above it. This conclusion cannot be considered final until the
numerous missing links in the chain of the western geological history
have been supplied by the more careful surveys of the future. The facts
upon which it is based are briefly these: The geology of the eastern
portions of the Rocky Mountain region has been traced over an extended
space from north to south without the discovery of important exposures
of this group of strata, which fact, to one acquainted with the differ-
ences of Weathering between most sandstones and limestones, seems
remarkable if such strata exist. Again, Hayden, after several good
opportunities of observation, has expressed the opinion that no strata
between those of Potsdam and Carboniferous age occur along the east-
ern slope of the Wind River range. This, as we shall see, is certainly

RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 109
an error, but it was based upon an examination of well-exposed sections
at each end of the range, and there are some indications of the thinning-
out of the Calciferous beds in the neighborhood of South Pass, which
would partly justify his opinion. West of the Rocky Mountain divide,
beds of the age of the Quebec group have been observed by both
Hayden and Bradley; but, as is the case in several places on our trail,
the supposed Potsdam is also to be seen immediately overlaid by rocks
of more recent date.
The best exposure of these rocks which was reached during our trip,
and, in fact, the only one from which the main facts were gathered, is
situated near the central portion of the Wind River Mountains, a little
> * ~
X- * K.
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- / / , a
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/ - ,” //
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i
south of West from Camp Brown. The connection with the rocks below
is entirely obscured by heavy drift-deposits, as will be seen from the
accompanying Section taken at a point where the overlying beds have
been worn away, (See Fig. 2.) The thickness of the exposed Quebec



110 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
limestones is about 200 feet, which will constitute two-thirds of its
whole amount, if it be true, as supposed, that there is only a thickness
of 200 feet of Potsdam sandstone between this formation and the meta-
morphic series, but which is not exposed in this section.
This supposition is not of much value, for there is no means of deter-
mining from this section the nature of the 300 feet which is covered by
drift. One thing, however, is certain : there is nowhere in the Wind
Tiver range such a development of this formation as is reported by
Bradley from several localities farther west, unless it be in a very
restricted Section.
The rock varies somewhat in composition and texture, but in general
it may be described as a ferrous-magnesian, or dolomitic, limestone with
an Öolitic structure, although large portions of it are not Öolitic. In
some of the layers there is a considerable amount of siliceous material
intermixed with the calcareous, and occasionally there is a bed which
might better be called a calcareous sand-rock. Local bands or streaks
of ferruginous shale are common, in some instances almost constituting
separate layers, but generally irregularly dispersed through the lime-
Stones.
The greater part of the silica, which is contained in the dolomitic
limestones, is exceedingly fine, but there is scattered through the rock
a small amount of what appears to be the minute fragments of some
silicates of black and orange-red colors. Occasional globular masses of
pyrites (FeS2) are found distributed through the Öolite, and “drusy"
cavities lined with rhombohedral crystals of calcite are very common.
Many of the fossils seem to be connected with the mineralization of the
rock by the introduction of special ingredients in the place of their
component minerals. The change of the calcic carbonate of the shells
to dolomite, and the alteration of other shells into ferric oxide, or the
filling of their cavities with the same mineral, are of common occurrence,
and in some layers a species of Theca (?) is now almost invariably largely
composed of a green mineral resembling glaucomite, (silicate of iron.)
Organic contents.-The beds of the Quebec group in this region Con-
tain an abundance of fossil remains of a Lower Silurian cast, such as
would require for their existence the conditions under which these beds
were formed, viz, a comparatively clear sea, not necessarily of extreme
depth, nor free from occasional slight turbidity, but highly charged with
calcareous matter. As a rule, these fossils are quite badly broken,
although the fragments are remarkably well preserved with few excep-
tions. In the Öolite they are apt to be less broken than in the other
limestones. From the few specimens collected I have been able to iden-
tify a trilobite of the genus Dicellocephalus, several specimens of Orthis-
tritonia (?) and a quantity of a species of Theca (?). Fragments of other
fossils are present, some of which could, doubtless, be identified, with
more careful study and comparison with better-preserved remains, but
this has been impossible under existing circumstances.
NIAGARA LIMESTONE.
Until the time of the present reconnaissance, all of the rocks of Silu-
rian age north of South Pass, and east of the main crest of the Rocky
Mountains, were referred to the epoch of the Potsdam sandstone. Hay-
den discovered evidences of the existence of strata of Upper Silurian age
near South Pass as early as 1860, but he did not meet with any indications
of their presence elsewhere in the Wind River Mountains. The trip to
Chimney Rock, made by the writer from Camp Brown, which is mentioned
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWFSTERN WYOMING. 111
in Chapter I, proved very fortunate, as it resulted in the discovery of sev-
eral important groups of strata not heretofore suspected in that region.
The junction of the Quebec group with the underlying formation is still
unsettled; but very near the section shown in Fig. 2 its connection with
the formation above is rendered plain by an exposure, which shows the
tWO groups in contact. Fig. 3 is a section illustrating the prominent
facts as there exhibited.
Several other outcrops of a similar limestone along our trail have been
referred provisionally to this formation on account of their relative
position to other beds. Near the summit of the Owl Creek range, where
N
`s N N
///4 GAAPA N N
/soft N \
N `s `s
N \ S \,
N N N N.
\ \ \
N \
Fig. 3.-Section showing the connection of the Niagara and Quebec formations, Wind
River Mountains.
we crossed it, there is an exposure of compact crystalline limestone,
overlying a thinly-bedded shaly rock, which does not greatly resemble
the limestones of the Quebec group lithologically, but which may be of
the same age, though there are, perhaps, better grounds for considering
it of later date. There are several exposures of thick limestone forma-
tions in the valley of the East Fork of the Yellowstone which have
yielded no paleontological evidence of their true horizon; but, as they
appear to lie not far above the metamorphic series, it seems more
likely that they were deposited during the Niagara period than that
they are of Carboniferous age, the rocks of which in this region they
do not so closely resemble.
On Lava Creek, a locality before mentioned, the red sandstone which
I have referred to the Potsdam epoch is directly overlaid by limestones,
the upper portions of which are probably of Upper Silurian age, being
very similar in many respects to the fossiliferous Niagara beds of the
Wind River range. This opinion is strengthened by the discovery of a
co-incident arrangement of strata in the neighborhood of the Téton
range, forty miles west of this point, by Prof. Frank H. Bradley, geol-
ogist of the Snake River division of Doctor Hayden's expedition of
1872. -
The lithological characters of this formation are very similar to those
of some of the more eastern rocks of the same age. It is possible that a
few beds of an arenaceous nature will eventually be included in the


112 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.'
group, but, so far as its limits have been determined over the area.
which we are discussing, it is entirely made up of a compact cherty dolo-
mite of a color varying from white to gray or light-drab. Some portions
of it are inclined to weather brownish-yellow, but much of it only
assumes a darker gray color upon exposure to atmospheric agencies.
Large masses of the dolomite frequently Weather into turreted or castel-
lated forms, aud Sounetimes huge blocks are left standing by themselves.
or tumbled down steep declivities into the ravines. Caverns of various
sizes are also not Scarce, affording fine shelter even for quite large ani-
mals. -
Beautiful siliceous crystals are abundant in the rock in “drusy” cavi-
ties, many of them being highly ferruginous, while others are opalescent,
and some are concretionary, with an agate structure. Portions of the
rock are also traversed by thin veins of chalcedony, interlacing and
studded with minute and brilliant crystals of quartz. An occasional
fossil is almost completely transformed by this process. Nodules or
flakes of hornstome are also found sometimes approaching in color the
carnelian.
Organic contents.-Unfortunately, some of the most characteristic fos-
sils belonging to the rocks of the Niagara period are not sufficiently char-
acteristic of a single formation to enable one to refer the beds containing
them to their exact horizon. A cursory glance at the specimens collected
in 1873 might cause considerable doubt whether these beds would not be
as appropriately regarded as synchronous with the Clinton limestones
of the East, but a more careful review of all the evidence shows that the
affinities are largely in the direction of the more recent limestone of the
Niagara epoch. In the interior basin, in the valley of the Mississippi,
where the limestone-beds are more extensive than at points farther east,
the lithological features, the mode of weathering, and other character-
istics of the Niagara limestone strikingly resemble the peculiarities
which have just been described. But the comparison does not end here,
for the character of the fossils also points to the more recent date of this
formation in the Rocky Mountain region. -
Perhaps the most common organic remains are those of the well-
known Halysites catenulatus, Linn., or “chain-coral,” which can be ob-
tained in quite large masses. Other corals, of the genera Cyathophyl-
lum and Zaphrentis, are not rare in the lower beds, and a brachiopod,
poorly preserved, resembling a cast of the interior of Pentamerus (gal-
eatus 2) was collected, besides one specimen of an Orthoceras.
The fossils, with the exception of the brachiopods, are usually silici-
fied and very well preserved ; but they are difficult to collect on account
of the extreme hardness of the rock.
ABSENCE OF THE DEVONIAN SYSTEM.
Overlying the Niagara dolomite there is a series of beds which are
mostly arenaceous, but which promise to prove of much geologic inter-
est when they shall have received their due share of attention at the
hands of those who will not be obliged to merely “skim” the country.
In a paper published in the American Journal of Science, (vol. vi, De-
cember, 1873,) I have too hastily referred certain of these arenaceous
strata in the Wind River Mountains to the Oriskany Period of the De-
vonian age. Prof. James Hall, of Albany, N. Y., who has since kindly
examined two specimens obtained from this locality, writes that one
proves to be identical with Spiriferina pulchra, Meek, a form originally
described from Nevada; while, concerning the other, he remarks,
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTH WESTERN WYOMING. 113
*
“Strange as it may appear, I am unable to refer it to any other than
Spirifer cameratus, from the ordinary forms of which it differs consider-
ably. The characters of the specimen are certainly obscure, and the
determination may admit of doubt; but “ , ” I should give it the
relations I have indicated, and, if not Sp. cameratus, it is to me unknown
at the present time.” It is probable, therefore, that the Devonian sys-
tem is not represented by any considerable formation in this section of
the West, although there is a wide field for research here; and, if this
view be correct, the development of the Upper Carboniferous is quite
remarkable.
CARBONIFEROUS SYSTEM.
Above the Niagara limestone, there is a well-developed and wide-
ly-distributed formation, which was early referred to the Carbonif.
erous system. Beds of this age are quite generally exposed all along
the flanks of the principal ranges of the Rocky Mountain chain, and
occasional exposures of beds, which are usually considered synchronous
With them, occur in many places west of the main crest, where it is often
difficult to determine their relations to the adjacent rocks. Recent dis-
coveries have made it doubtful whether such reference has not too often
been based upon the previous supposition that there were no beds in
this region between the Potsdam Sandstone and the Carboniferous
rocks, so that it is possible that some outcrops of an earlier date have
been inadvertently reported as of Carboniferous age.
SUBCARBONIFEROUS 222 LIMIESTONE.
The limestones of the Carboniferous age, flanking the ranges of the
Rocky Mountain system, with one or two exceptions, have been generally
regarded as of the horizon of some portion of the Carboniferous period,
(the terms age and period being technically employed here.) In another
place,” the Writer has expressed the opinion that this formation, as
exposed in a portion of the Wind River Mountains, north of South
Pass, is of Subcarboniferous age. That statement was made from a
review of the notes taken in the field, without the opportunity of further
examination of the specimens collected, and it is now so far modified
as to be less confidently expressed, for reasons which will presently
appear.
The rock in question (the arenaceous beds before mentioned being
excluded from the present review) is a bluish-gray dolomitic limestone,
quite compact and thickly bedded, with numerous crystalline facets and
geodes of calc-spar, besides occasional minute crystals of some foreign
minerals. Some beds which seem to belong to this age are exposed in
the caſion of the North Fork of the Stinking water River, showing, in an
interesting manner, the effects produced by the molten volcanic outfiows,
portions of which have passed in between the upturned layers, trans-
forming the sedimentary rocks into forms with peculiar characters.
Organic contents.—Much of this limestone is quite fossiliferous, but
there is so little difference in the mineral composition of the rock and its
contained remains that it is often difficult to procure specimens which
can be readily identified, and this difficulty is not lessened by the irreg-
ular manner in which the fossils are crowded together. Several re-
corded specimens, containing remains from a favorable locality, have been
* In a paper “On the Geology of Western Wyoming,” by Theo. B. Comstock, pub-
lished in the American Journal of Science and Arts, Vol. Wi, December, 1873.
H. Ex. 285 8
114 |REC ONN AISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
lost, so that the material on hand for final determination is far from
complete. Among the missing were a crinoid of the genus Poteriocri-
mus 2 and two or three specimens of Lithostrotion, as recorded in the field-
notes. If my determinations of the remaining forms are correct, this
limestone also contains Spirifer biplicatus, and a chometes closely allied to
C. variolata.
By some this might be deemed sufficient ground for the omission of
the interrogation-marks after the word Subcarboniferous at the head of
this section, but in view of the novelty of such a designation, as well
as the doubt, which must be confessed, as to the validity of all the
determinations, it is best that it should stand as it is.
There is also another reason for doubt. It is known that limestones
of the age of the Coal-Measures occupy the position of this formation
over a very large area in the mountainous region of the West, and it is
difficult to imagine such a state of things as would have been necessary
for the deposition of a restricted Subcarboniferous group immediately
followed by a period in which the absence of any deposition was geo-
graphically identical, without some marked evidence being visible in
the arrangement of the strata. So far as known at present, there is no
ground for the belief that there is any break of this kind structurally,
unless it be that an observed change in the character of some of the
Carboniferous beds in the Big Horn range, reported by Hayden, may
indicate a difference in horizon. As the subject now stands, it would
be unwise to press too strongly an opinion of the Subcarboniferous age
of this group; and it will be best to regard the whole series as Upper
Carboniferous, according to previous authorities, until the matter can
receive more thorough investigation.
CARIBONIFEROUS LIMIESTONE.
Near the head of Wind River, overlying conformably the Subcarbon-
iferous 3 limestone, there is a thick formation of arenaceous and calca-
reous beds underneath the brick-red sandstones usually regarded as
Triassic. Toward the base of the group, from a non-homogeneous dark-
gray limestone, I obtained a portion of a tooth of Psammodus, and shells
undetermined, which have led me to place it in the Carboniferous group
or Coal-Measures. The rock resembles limestones of this horizon in
Illinois and Indiana. This was met upon the return trip. ºd no oppor-
tunity afterward occurred for reaching another exposur ſts reference
must, therefore, be regarded as provisional. If the . .111estone referred
doubtfully to the Subcarboniferous be really the equivalent of Hayden's
Carboniferous east of our district, this formation would seem to occupy
the position of his Permian. The determination of the Carboniferous
eastward rests on such good authority as Prof. F. B. Meek, and cannot
be questioned without better evidence than I can offer. These difficul-
ties can readily be settled by those who may hereafter have occasion to
work in this region, by the collection of more material from each for-
mation.
The sandstones and arenaceous limestones before mentioned, from
which the supposed Spirifer cameratus was obtained, underlie beds which
are apparently continuous with those which have been referred very
doubtfully to the Subcarboniferous period, which fact adds another
element of uncertainty to the determination. Accepting, therefore, the
opinion of previous explorers, the thickness of the Carboniferous lime-
stones, the equivalent of the Upper Coal-Measures of the Eastern
United States, is not less than 2,000 feet (probably much more) in the
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 1 iff
*
Wind River Mountains. The entire absence of coal and the prevalence
of Calcareous strata, as well as the widespread distribution of the forma-
tion, all point to the existence of an extensive sea of considerable
depth during the period of their formation; and no evidence has thus
far been collected of a shore-line in any part of this region during the
era in question. The upper limestones are massive and very compact,
forming prominent ridges, with even, well-worn slopes, while the under-
lying strata are more thinly bedded, being usually less calcareous.
Organic contents.-Besides those already mentioned, no fossils have
been identified. But few opportunities occurred of obtaining a good
Supply, and the general toughness of the rocks renders it difficult to
procure them in excellent condition. As a rule, they are much crowded,
and poorly preserved also.
OBSERVATIONS ON TELE PALEOZOIC STRATA.
There is yet too much to be learned concerning the geology of our
district to make any but the most broad generalizations useful, but the
results of this expedition, in a geological way at least, will prove barren
indeed if they do not furnish future explorers with a few hints of some
of the unsolved problems yet remaining, that they may know where to
Seek for new facts for their elucidation.
It has been already remarked that the Potsdam Sandstone and the
Carboniferous limestone are widespread formations in the region of the
Rocky Mountains, and that over the greater portion of the area east of
the main divide these two formations have heretofore been reported in
contact. Knowing now that several other formations intervene in cer-
tain sections, it is natural to seek a reason for their apparently local
distribution. Two or three explanations are suggested by the facts as
far as they have been gathered. First, it will be noticed that few com.
petent geologists have traversed this region, even in such a manner as
to collect all the data necessary for the mere tracing of the prominent
outcrops of the successive formations, and none bave been able to
obtain more than a bare outline of the geological structure of any
portion. It seldom happens in a reconnaissance—and territorial Surveys
are usually nothing more—that one can obtain information to any ex-
tent at a distance from the trail of the expedition; and the route pur-
sued must of necessity be mostly away from the rugged Country, luaking
it impossible to reach the most instructive sections in all cases. Thus
it may have happened that many exposures of the Quebec and
Niagara strata have been entirely overlooked. This supposition, how-
ever, to one Who has engaged in western field-Work, will have little
weight, and the Wiser conclusion will be that such strata do not exist
where they have not been reported, except it may be in small patches.
Put there is another question which is not so easily decided. Did these
formations once spread over this whole area, or were they deposited in
patches as We suppose them to exist at present 3 An examination of
the limestones and their fossils shows that they were deposited in Saline-
waters of considerable depth and extent, as a Sea or Ocean. Moreover,
during the Quebec epoch the shore need not have been very far distant
from the present position of the Wind River Mountains. A compari-
son of the statements concerning that group in this chapter With the
reports of Hayden and Bradley shows that this formation rapidly
thickens westward, While there is no doubt that it thins out south Ward
and eastward, so that it is very thin, if not entirely absent, in the vicin-
ity of Miner's Delight. The same features are noticeable with the
116 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
Niagara dolomite, which, as before stated, probably extends farther
eastward than the Quebec group.
If this idea be correct—and it seems well Supported—there was an
ancient shore-line during the deposition of the Quebec and Niagara
groups, of uncertain trend, but a portion of which lay near the longi-
tude of South Pass. This opens a new field for research in this region,
one which will doubtless add much to the great mass of facts which are
now helping on the settlement of the theories of mountain elevation,
and it also suggests the possibility that the history of the far-past in
the West is not as simple as many have believed.
CEIAPTER IV.
STRATIGRAPHY, CONTINUED–MESOZOIC AND TERTIARY.
Triassic system—Jurassic—Cretaceous and Tertiary systems—Age of the lignite
formation.
We have seen that over much of the region north and west of South
Pass the earlier Paleozoic rocks were deposited in a sea at first shallow,
but soune what gradually deepening until toward the close of the epoch
of the Niagara dolomite, when comparatively shallow seas were the
rule. During a considerable portion of the Devonian and Carboniferous
ages, it is probable that dry land existed over at least a portion of this
region; and east of the Big Horn River, it would seem that, during much of
the era between the deposition of the Potsdam sandstone and the Carbon-
iferous beds, the land was not covered by the sea. However this may have
been, there is abundant proof that the barrier was overflowed at least
as early as the close of the Carboniferous age, since which time the
geological history of the whole area has been essentially the same,
generally speaking.
TRIASSIC SYSTEM.
Directly overlying the limestones of Carboniferous age a thick series
of brick-red sandstones forms one of the most peculiar and conspicuous
features of Rocky Mountain geology. In most places where these beds
are well exposed they stand out prominently by themselves, their sepa-
ration from the underlying hard limestones being extremely distinct, on
account of the great difference in the texture of the formations and the
consequent greater erosion of the so-called Triassic strata. The brick-
red sandstones are generally considered Triassic, though full proof of
their age cannot be said to have been obtained. Notwithstanding the
fact that these beds are among the best exposed of any of the Western
formations, less is probably known of their true relations than of those
of all the others, except the metamorphic series.
Frequent exposures of the red sandstones occur over our district,
but often the forces which have operated to bring them to light have
also aided in again obscuring their structure. The most simple outcrop,
not complicated by folds or subsequent deposits, is to be seen in the
caſion of Deep Creek, at the base of the Wind River Mountains. Figure
4 is intended to represent a section across this caſion at a right angle to
the axis of the range, but it also includes a portion of the exposures
upon each side as they are seen along the banks of the Little Popo-
Agie River.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 117
Some outcrops in deeply-eroded vales in the Owl Creek range are
quite similar, but many of the finest exposures are in eroded folds,
Several of which occur in the Wind
River Valley, between the two mount- /
f
* * * º Cr
ain-ranges. In these, the dip of g
the red beds is often very great. Ü
Ripple-marks, and other evidences
of deposition in shallow water,
abound in most of the strata.
/
i.
§
The rock appears to vary but little 3 * § §
Over broad areas, though occasional § 14; $
beds of a different nature from that tº 43% Sº
of the red sandstones have been A so?
observed. Besides the ferric oxide, g §
&
:
rº
Á
;
to which the color is mainly due,
much of the rock contains a consid.
erable quantity of iron in spots scat-
tered through the interior like fossils,
but showing no structural markings.
Many of the layers are fairly compact,
and being traversed by a double sys-
tem of regular joints, they break into
blocks of a form and size suitable for
building-purposes, Large quantities
of bedded gypsum occur, apparently
interstratified between the layers of
the Sandstone in many places. A
short distance below Camp Brown on
the Little Wind River, this is quite
abundant, and it bids fair to become
of much economic importance in the
future. At the head of Lake Fork, in
the caſion, there are also extensive
outcrops of this mineral, which are
very accessible. The greater part is / &
probably in the form of saccharoidal || /
or compact alabaster, but some por-
tions closely resemble in properties / /
the finer varieties of anhydrite, and it /
is not impossible that other portions,
in places where the rocks have been
folded, may prove valuable as a par-
tial substitute for marble, as is the -
Case with the Vulpanite of Northern Italy. In most cases, however, the
anhydrite has been broken into quite small blocks by the heat accom-
panying the uplift. Some extensive beds of selenite were also observed.
Beds of limonite, Some of which appeared to be of the argillaceous vari-
ety known as yellow Ocher, were noticed in the outlying ridges south
of the Owl-Creek range, a portion of which may be of Triassic age.
Above the brick-red beds two or three hundred feet of lighter-colored
sandstones, containing less ferric oxide, lie beneath arenaceous lime-
stone-beds, affording a transitional series between the so-called Triassic
beds and the succeeding strata of undoubted Jurassic age.
Organic contents.-The rocks of this age in Northwestern Wyoming are
as barren in the evidences of life as the Potsdam sandstone, and it is
seldom that one is so fortunate as to collect any fossils from them,
except when making a specialty of their study. None were obtained by
/
•'s
;






118 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
the writer in 1873, hence no new facts were elicited concerning the age
of this formation. There can be no doubt that it is older than the Fos-
siliferous jurassic of this section, for it is invariably found beneath it
wherever both are exposed, but its limits cannot at present be clearly
defined, although it is undoubtedly Post-Carboniferous, for it has been
reported in some sections as lying unconformably upon beds which have
been referred, with good reason, to the Permian period.
* JURASSIC SYSTEMſ.
Wherever good sections can be reached, the brick-red and buff.col-
ored sandstones, which constitute the provisional Triassic system, are
almost always found covered by the Jurassic limestones, a group which
attains a thickness of nearly 1,000 feet in some localities. Many fine
outcrops of these strata are to be seen in the Wind-River country, par-
ticularly in the neighborhood of the mountains, upon both sides of the
plateau. The first exposures upon the northeastern slope of the Wind
Fiver Mountains are in the main as simple as on the Little Popo-Agie
near Red Cañon, (see Fig. 4), where there are no complications in the
way of folds, and the structure is not obscured by accumulations of drift
or other material. Passing across the plateau several prominent folds
have so tilted the strata that the Jurassic beds outcrop at different
angles to the horizon, but frequently dipping almost vertically, in which
case the harder layers jut above the softer intermediate beds, often to
a height of many feet, stretching like so many irregular walls across the
country. The formation is very widespread, its distribution in the
Rocky Mountain region being nearly identical with the supposed Trias-
sic, at least so far as our district is concerned. West of the main divide,
on our route, no exposures were observed of rocks, which can with cer-
tainty be referred either to the Jurassic or the Triassic, but the existence
of the former in that section has been proved by the explorations of
Hayden and Bradley, who have obtained characteristic fossils of this
group from localities comparatively near. -
The formation as a whole might be characterized as one of impure
limestones, the nature of the fossils, as well as the composition of most
of the strata, indicating that the beds were deposited during an epoch
of marine subsidence in comparatively shallow water. The beds com-
posing the walls, before mentioned as occurring in certain sections, are
generally quite hard and compact, but they are not remarkably homo-
geneous. The proportion of silica is always large, seldom extremely
fine, but often quite coarse. In the more calcareous strata, containing
fossils, alumina seems to be present only in small quantity when Com-
pared with the amount which is contained in less arenaceous rocks of
earlier date. The fossiliferous limestones are dolomitic and often some-
what ferruginous. Crystals of calcite and dolomite are very commonly
distributed through all the rocks, and much of the magnesian lime-
stone is traversed by numerous very thin joints, filled with veins of
calcite.
The prevailing color of the rocks is a dull leaden or ashy gray, Weath-
ering from darker gray to brown and dark brown. Occasional beds of
quite pure yellowish-white limestone are seen, also yellow and brown
arenaceous limestones. It is probable, also, that this formation in the
neighborhood of the Owl-Creek range, upon its southern flank, includes
some valuable iron-ore beds; but, as before remarked, they cannot be
properly placed until the boundary between the Triassic and the Jurassic
shall be more definitely fixed, and this cannot well be accomplished until
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 119
Imore Complete paleontological evidence has been collected from the
lower series of arenaceous beds.
Organic contents.—Characteristic Jurassic fossils have been more
than once collected from the region of the Rocky Mountains, and the
announcement of those collected from the Wind River Valley by Dr.
Hayden, while acting as the geologist of Captain Raynolds’ expedition,
Was made as early as 1861. These remains present strong resemblances
to many of the species which characterize the lower strata of the
Jurassic system in Europe. A good supply was collected from the
various exposures seen upon the trip of 1873, but inopportune circum-
stances have made it absolutely impossible to work them up with any
degree of care, so that it must be acknowledged that there are a number
of forms which have not been made out which it is believed will add some
Inew members to the list of the characteristic organic remains of the
American Jurassic, Enough has, however, been learned to determine
the age of the containing beds, without a doubt, for their separation
from the overlying group is very distinct, stratigraphically and paleon-
tologically, as has been well remarked by Meek and Hayden.
Among the forms which are most readily recognizable, there is a
Species of Gryphaea, bearing Some resemblance to the European Liassic
G. Arcuata, Lam., but perhaps nearer G. Calceola, Quenstedt, (which I
have not seen represented.) Fairly preserved specimens of llonotis
curta (?) were obtained, besides a few of a species of Rhynchonella, spec-
imens of the genera Lingula (brevirostra. 2) JIodiola, etc., and two speci-
mens of Belemnites, near B. densus.
CRETA CEOUS AND TERTIARY SYSTEMIS.
Perhaps there is no question of greater interest connected with Western
geology, nor one Which has attracted more attention of late years, than
the determination of the upper limit of the Cretaceous deposits. The
beds of this age are usually found to be so distinct from the Jurassic
strata that it is seldom very difficult to define the boundary between
these two formations, but there is an important group lying between the
known Cretaceous and the undoubted Tertiary rocks, the age of which
has not yet been conclusively settled. Some geologists, with much ap-
parent reason, are disposed to regard the majority of these intermediate
beds as Tertiary, While perhaps a larger number are of the opinion that
the weight of evidence thus far obtained places them more properly within
the limits of the Cretaceous system, and not a few, taking a middle view,
favor the idea that they are largely transitional in character. The oppor-
tunities afforded for the collection of facts bearing directly upon this
question were not many during our trip, as the route followed was not
such as to offer good outcrops of the beds under discussion. No oppor-
tunity has since occurred for the elaboration of any of the material
which might throw light upon the subject, and it will therefore be
necessary in this place to pass it by With much less notice than it deserves.
Leaving the matter for some further consideration at the close of the
chapter we will now proceed to a review of the Cretaceous beds, as far as
full evidence exists of their true age.
CRETACEOUS STRATA.
As a rule, the Jurassic beds are conformably overlaid by the members
of the Cretaceous series, and the distribution of both formations is, in
the main, identical east of the Wahsatch chain, although the Cretaceous
120 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
system is made up of several more local groups. In the Wind River
Valley the beds overlying the Jurassic strata are exposed in much the
same manner, but there are fewer good outcrops, owing to the more
extensive covering of the Cretaceous by the Tertiary rocks, in the neigh-
borhood of the Wind River Mountains, and to the greater erosion of the
Cretaceous beds when they occur in the uncovered folds. North of the
Owl Creek range it is probable that these strata are favorably exposed
for study over a wide district, but in many places they have been so
much folded and eroded that their stratigraphical relations to the adja-
cent formations cannot be satisfactorily worked out in a single trip
across the country. Sufficient evidence was obtained, however, to show
that there is no want of conformity between the Jurassic and the Cre-
taceous within a considerable distance of our trail. About half-way
between Pacific Creek and Lava Creek the trail crosses the deep gorge
of a small stream, where some of the Cretaceous beds are to be seen dip-
ping Southwest 579, and in the caſion of Buffalo Fork, just below Camp
56, similar beds, with additional members, are found dipping in the oppo-
site direction 892. Detween these points no Cretaceous exposures were
Inoticed, but, judging from the dips of the lower sedimentary strata,
which were observed on Lava Creek between Camps 55 and 56, there
Imust be one or more folds intervening.
The lithological characters of the included members are almost as
Variable as possible, with intimate mixtures of arenaceous, argillaceous,
and calcareous ingredients, in different proportions. There are very
few beds of limestone, and such are always very thin, but there are some
Shaly layers, and even occasional beds of clay, though the formation, as
a whole, would best be designated as an argillo-arenaceous group.
Some of the shales, as well as many of the sandstones, are highly ferrugi-
Inous, While other layers are quite free from the presence of iron. Much of
the ferric oxide can be traced directly to the plant-remains which abound
in parts of the group, but a large portion is undoubtedly due to the decom-
position of pyrites. Passing up through a thick series of strata, with
the arenaceous material somewhat gradually increasing in proportion,
Several beds of lignite, or impure bituminous coal, are reached, which
are Well exposed for Working in many places. More will be said of their
economic vaſtle in another chapter, but it may be mentioned here that the
beds are of considerable thickness, and that they contain much sulphur
and ferric oxide, besides a notable quantity of gypsum, all resulting very
largely from the decomposition of iron pyrites, which is abundant in
the coal. Beautiful grains or drops of amber, usually not larger than a
pea, are also rather common, and, rarely, a short piece of the stem of a
plant, several inches in circumference, will be found so completely car-
bonized as to approach somewhat closely to anthracite. These lignite
beds are usually separated by several feet of soft sandstone, frequently
of a yellow color, and they are directly underlaid by a peculiar har-
dened clay, or soft, clayey shale, to which it is, as it were, cemented, the
Iignite becoming browner below, and running into the shale almost
gradually.
Three of these coaly layers are exposed upon the northeastern flank
of the Wind River Mountains, and what appear to be the same beds
can be traced by numerous exposures across the country to the southern
flank of the Owl Creek range, while, perhaps, similar outcrops over the
area beyond, as far as the Stinking Water Caſion, North Fork, may not
be improperly referred to the same horizon. There is more or less of
variation in character and quality over this district. . .
These lower lignitiferous seams are generally included in the Creta-
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 121.
z
ceous groups by those who have studied them, whatever may be their
views concerning the age of the doubtful beds which occur higher in
the series; and this conclusion seems supported by the paleontological
evidence. In the Wind River region, as well as over the district tra-
versed in 1873, north of the Owl Creek range and east of the Sierra
Shoshone, the great bulk of the Cretaceous formation appears to lie
below the lignite beds, and it is supposable that the whole group, as
there exposed, was deposited before the changes took place which
resulted in the deposition of the strata of doubtful age.
Organic contents.—It will be impossible now to give even the genera
of the distinctively Cretaceous fossils, but this lack will be less felt from
the fact that Hayden long ago gathered evidence that the Wind River
Valley deposits underlying the horizontal Tertiary strata are mainly of
Cretaceous age. The remains of marine life are of Cretaceous types, and
there is, as yet, little or no evidence of a great thickness of uncertain beds
of brackish or fresh water origin. Still it must be confessed that this
'formation has been, at the best, but hastily examined, and changes in
the character of the beds above appear to begin toward the head of
Wind River, and to increase in importance westward. Near Gray Bull
Biver some interesting plant-remains, mostly leaves of angiosperms,
were obtained, and some very fine leaves in shale were obtained near
the top of the section exposed upon the left bank of the caſion of North
Fork of Owl Creek. The latter resemble so closely in character and
position, and in the nature of the rock, some very good specimens col-
lected in a bluff upon the left bank of Wind River, a short distance
below Camp 5S, that there can be little doubt that they are from the
same horizon. In both cases I am disposed to regard them as Creta-
ceous, though the dip of the beds is much less than that of many of the
underlying rocks. At any rate, the overlying Tertiary beds in the
Wind River Valley are horizontal, or nearly so, and unconformable to
these beds, while it is impossible to draw a similar line of unconforma-
bility between any two of the lower formations, although some of the
beds dip much more than the plant-layers. The same relative arrange-
ment of the principal forumations was also observed north of the Owl
Creek Mountains, where there are variations in degree but not in the
order of Superposition. -
The outcrop before mentioned, which is exposed in the cañon of
Puffalo Fork, affords a fine section of arenaceous and carbonaceous
strata, with abundant remains of plant and animal life, which seem to
bear affinities to Cretaceous types. These will be more fully discussed
in connection with the remarks upon the age of the doubtful lignite
group, -
TERTIARY DEPOSITS.
Passing over the debatable ground for the present, we find that suffi-
cient land had appeared above the sea at the close of the era of the
lignite deposition for the existence of extensive fresh-water lakes over
much of the Rocky Mountain region. Some of the lake-basins far ex-
ceeded in area the largest of modern depressions containing fresh Water,
and in them were deposited innmense quantities of the detritus brought
in by the streams from the surrounding country. This process in some
places continued until the sedimentary material had accumulated in the
bottom of the lakes to a thickness of hundreds, and even thousands,
of feet. The important chapters of the earth's history, in which the
records of these events are minutely recorded and profusely illustrated,
might have remained a Sealed volume had not the later history of our
122 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
globe required for its records the waste of what had been built up during
the long Tertiary period. As it is, the draining of most of the old Ter-
tiary lake-basins has been accompanied with erosion upon a scale so
vast that it is often possible to obtain a nearly complete Section of these
enormous accumulations by merely passing across the basin in which
they were deposited. A very few years since it was scarcely believed
that the Tertiary deposits of our country were capable of yielding as
rich a harvest as had been reaped from beds of this age in Europe, but
it is now ascertained that they are not surpassed in interest or pros-
pective importance by any known group of strata in the World. To
one at all familiar with the general geology of the United States it is
only necessary to mention the names of Newberry, Lesquereux, Marsh,
Leidy, Cope, and Meek to call to mind the rich results already obtained
by the careful study of specimens collected from this horizon in the
West. One of the most remarkable sections, the favorite field of several
of the most experienced collectors, is situated in a portion of the terri-
tory embraced by our reconnaissance, and it therefore claims a share of
Our attention.
The greater portion of the Green River Basin, (as defined in Chapter
II,) is now occupied by fresh-water deposits of the Tertiary period. A
section of these beds from top to bottom will, however, include a con-
siderable thickness of the lignite formation. Excluding this from the
review, we shall have to consider here only that part of the series which
is exposed in the vicinity of the road traveled between the Uintah
Mountains and South Pass.
EOCENE STRATA.
In view of the discrepancies found to exist between supposed syn-
chronous strata in different parts of the world, the plan of employing
local names to designate the various epochs and periods represented
in the United States, has wisely been adopted by field geologists.
Strangely enough, however, the evident advantages arising from this
method when applied to the Paleozoic rocks have been overlooked in
the classification of the later formations, so that our Tertiary nomen-
clature is now encumbered with terms which are even less appropriate
than would be the names, “Lingula Flags,” “Llandeilo Flags,” and
“Wenlock Beds,” applied to American Silurian strata of the same ad-
judged horizons. The terms Eocene, Miocene, and Pliocene, are partic-
ularly objectionable in American geology, and it must be distinctly
understood that they have no more literal significance at present in
the West than does the term Triassic when applied to the formation
succeeding the Permian.
There has been some doubt concerning the proper disposition of the
beds overlying the lignite or coal group, which were referred to the
Middle Tertiary (Miocene) by Hayden in his report for the year 1870.
This reference was largely based upon the supposd Eocene age of the
coal-formation of the Green River Basin. Dr. Newberry, after exam-
ining a very few of the fossil plants from near Green River station,
remarked that they hinted of an earlier period than the Lower Miocene.
Professor Cope pronounced the age of the Green River fishes to be
more likely Eocene, and during the same year (1870) that Hayden
crossed the basin, Prof. O. C. Marsh determined to his own satisfaction
that some still higher beds are Eocene, since which time he has two or
three times visited the locality (Grizzly Buttes) and obtained more
evidence. Professors Leidy and Cope, Who have also collected and de-
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING, 123
Scribed numerous vertebrate remains from this section, regard them as
Eocene. The weight of authority thus seems to favor their reference
to the Lower Tertiary. My own conclusions, somewhat tardily adopted,
were partially formed in the field, but have not heretofore been advo-
cated for want of decisive proof. I can now express more confidently
the opinion that these beds are of Eocene or Lower Tertiary age,
although the paleontological evidence which I have collected is less
Satisfactory on account of the fresh-water type of the invertebrate
remains, than would be the case were there more vertebrate forms.
The collections have not yet been carefully examined, and it is there.
fore impossible to speak of them in detail.
Hayden has provisionally divided the beds comprising this remark-
able formation into two groups, which may be conveniently recognized
in the present state of our knowledge concerning them, though no
definite line of separation can be drawn between them.
GREEN RIVER GROUP.—(Lower? Eocene.)
This name is at present used to designate that portion of the fresh-
water Tertiary strata which lies directly above the coal group, and which
is the present surface formation over a large portion of the Green River
Basin north of Fort Bridger. If it be true that the coal-beds are of
Eocene age, this group holds a position which will entitle it to be ranked
as Middle Eocene, but if, as many believe, the former group be really
Cretaceous, these beds may be considered Lower Eocene, there being in
this case no Middle Eocene, unless it shall be found that the Whole series
is made up of three well-marked groups, which does not now seem
probable, to say the least.
The upper limit of the Green River group is not readily definable at
present, the transition between the beds of this and the overlying group
being rather gradual, but the general character of the two formations,
both lithologically and paleontologically, differs greatly. The Green
River beds are mainly composed of a series of shales, marls, and harder
calcareous strata, the latter, especially, containing quantities of the
remains of fresh-water forms of life, with laminated layers literally
filled with the remains of land-plants of the Phaenogamous series. The
famous “petrified-fish beds,” so well exposed near Green River station,
Union Pacific Railroad, belong to this group.
The outline of the ancient lake-basin in which these strata were
deposited is not fully determined, but there are indications that its east-
ern boundary was outside of the present limits of the Green River Basin,
and there is no room for doubt that the Uintah Mountains and the
Wahsatch chain then, as now, towered above its surface. Northward it
is equally clear that the Wind River range formed the shore of the
great lake, with probably more or less of gently sloping border during
a portion of the era of Lower Eocene deposition. This formation is now
exposed over our route from Fort Bridger to near South Pass, the ex-
cessive erosion over this area causing the rocks to be laid bare in
most places, so as to afford favorable opportunities for study, but they
do not yield as plentifully the interesting remains which are character-
istic of these beds in the neighborhood of Green River City, though it
is highly probable that rich harvests will hereafter be reaped by col-
lectors who may be able to examine the outcrops with Some degree of
thoroughness. -
Generally speaking, the rock contains a considerable portion of calcic
carbonate, with an abundance of ferric oxide produced by decomposition
124 RECONN AISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
and oxidation. Gypsum and calcite of different varieties are abundant,
frequently occurring as thin, papery seams between the rock-layers, at
other times forming masses of considerable extent. These features are
scarcely as characteristic of this formation, however, as of the Bridger
group. Some of the layers are little more than a pure clay shale, while
there are a few quite arenaceous beds and some compact limestones.
The mineral peculiarities are so generally the result of chemical and
other changes in the rocks of a secondary nature, that they will be
more properly considered in that part of the report which treats of the
action of atmospheric agencies, under the general head of dynamical
geology. The texture of the different beds is quite variable, but, in
general, the streams which have cut their channels through them are
walled by nearly vertical cliffs, and the buttes and benches for the most
part have quite precipitous sides. Numerous joints occur in many of
the strata, particularly in the more compact kinds, and fine examples of
concretionary structure or weathering are not rare. The tendency of
the thick beds of marly sandstone on the banks of Green River, at the
crossing, to weather spheroidally is very noticeable, and this is repeated
in various degrees in the argillaceous and calcareous rocks as well.
Organic contents.-In the absence of adequate knowledge of the affin-
ities of the fossil-plants collected, it is impossible to state with certainty
their bearing upon the age of the beds now under consideration. Indeed,
after the abundant material of this nature which has passed through
the hands of Dr. Newberry and Professor Lesquereux, it is scarcely
probable that the meager collections made by myself in 1873 will furnish
cause for the changing of opinions so strongly held by these vegetable-
paleontologists. Some remarks regarding the manner of occurrence of
these remains will, nevertheless, not be out of place. The finest speci-
mens were obtained from an exposure in a bluff just below the stage-
station at First Crossing, Big Sandy, on the left bank of the river, near
the top of the bluff. A few good specimens were obtained from a cliff
upon the left bank of Green River, about one mile and a half below the
crossing at Robinson’s Ferry. Outcrops of plant-beds at other localities
were not rare, but the remains were seldom as well preserved as in these
places. The rock containing these is usually a very fine-grained white
or yellowish shale, often more or less ferruginous. The leaves, the most
common form in which the relics exist, are mostly spread out smoothly,
giving most perfect impressions of the ribs and veins, making their
identification a matter of comparatively little difficulty. In some places
the plant-layers are composed of comminuted fragments of leaves and
other vegetable matter crowded together in an indefinable mass, and
again mere bits of Water-worn pieces were scattered thinly over the
shale, seldom sufficiently distinct for determination, while even more
frequently the shales are traversed by irony streaks of ferric oxide, with-
out a trace of the original vegetable tissue. -
The animal remains gathered during the summer of 1873 are mostly
well preserved, consisting mainly of Lamellibranchs and Gasteropods,
of the genera Unio, Corbicula 3 Melania, Viviparus, and Turritella 2 with
possibly others, including, perhaps, some undescribed specific forms. In
a bluff on the right bank of Ham's Fork, less than half a mile below the
old toll-bridge at the main crossing, a bed remarkably rich in Unio, as-
sociated with immense quantities of Viviparus, occurs, half way to the
top, directly above the stream. Directly opposite Camp 3, on Muddy
Eork, a few feet above the water, there is a bed almost completely made
up of Gasteropods—Melania, Vivipara, and Turritella 3 This is but a
few rods north Of the Union Pacific Railroad. A somewhat similar
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 125
Gasteropod bed underlies a thinner layer, apparently almost wholly
made up of Cypris remains, which is exposed on the left bank of Black's
Fork, a few rods below the lower bridge across that stream at Fort
Bridger. This exposure is near the point at which the telegraph-line to
Carter crosses the creek. Back in the cliffs, on the right bank of Green
River, nearly south from Camp 6, (three miles above Robinson's Ferry,) in
a thin calcareous shale partially saturated with petroleum, I obtained a
single specimen of the vertebra of a fish. This bed is probably of the
same horizon as the petroleum beds not far from Green River station.
In the present state of geological science, there are few who will not
acknowledge that vertebrate remains are a better criterion of the age
of a formation than fresh-water molluscs, or the leaves of plants. No
one doubts that the beds of the Green River group are Tertiary ; and
more recent beds, with abundant remains of the higher vertebrates,
being referred to the Eocene by the best authorities, it will be seen that
the reference of the Green River Strata to the Lower or Middle Eocene
is tolerably well founded. This classification receives additional Sup-
port from the statement of Prof. E. D. Cope, before given, concern-
ing the affinities of the fossil fishes collected from this formation near
Green River City.
BRIDGER GROUP.—(Upper Eocene.)
The beds overlying those of the Green River group are closely related
to them in age, for the transition from one to the other is not abrupt,
whether we regard their structure or their contents. All who have had
occasion to study the features of both groups, in the field or the closet,
have agreed in this, that they have regarded them as representatives of
a single Tertiary epoch, the point of controversy being only the question
whether they together represent the Eocene or the Miocene era. After
all, it will be found that the whole difficulty originated mainly in the
doubt concerning the true age of the coal group beneath, the settle-
ment of which seems just now to be the chief desideratum of American
geology. Hayden provisionally referred the Bridger group to the period
of the Upper Miocene, which must have been proper had the Green
River group proven to be of Lower Miocene age, as he at first supposed.
Those who hold to the Eocene age of the lower strata will, therefore,
also be unanimous in the avowal of the Upper Eocene age of the mem-
bers of the Bridger group. -
This formation is exposed at the surface over a considerable extent of
country, northward and eastward from Fort Bridger as far as Little
Sandy River and beyond, forming the top layers of numerous isolated
buttes. Along our route they are nearly horizontal or dip very slightly.
Perhaps the most instructive section observed on the trip, south of
South Pass, is in the vicinity of the Uintah Mountains, where the beds
of the Bridger group may be seen in their connection with the tilted
strata of earlier date. Figure 5 gives a general view of the structure
of the country lying between Fort Bridger and the Uintah Mountains
although it does not strictly represent a section in a direct line between
the post and Gilbert's Peak, but, more properly, it is a representation
of the principal facts with the surface features exaggerated, but mainly
correct, as far as the cañon of Henry's Fork. Gilbert's Peak is then
included to show its geological relations, although it is really out of the
line of the section. - -
During the epoch of the Bridger group, it is probable that the land
was covered with fresh Water in a lake as large as in the previous era,
126 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
if not more extensive. It may have been that the northern shore was
farther south than during the time when the Green River beds were de-
posited, but the mere fact that few of the Bridger strata now cover the
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underlying group north of the Little Sandy, on our road, does IIot
afford sufficient proof of this. There is, doubtless, much yet to be
learned from the field study of that section of the Green River Basin,
as yet unexplored geologically, which lies north of the forty-second
parallel and west of longitude 109° 30'. It may, however, be safely
stated that the lake of this epoch did not extend across the divide of
the Wind River Mountains. There is also no doubt that the Uintah
Mountains formed a portion of the southern boundary, though Profes-
sor Marsh discovered evidence of a synchronous basin south of this
range, which, having been much lower, may have received the outflow













RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 127
from the ancient Bridger Lake, though he remarks that the outlet was
not through the present channel of Green River. If the Washakie
group of Hayden, east of the present continental divide, be synchron-
ous, and continuous with the Bridger group, the eastern boundary of
the basin in which both were accumulated was far outside of the pres-
ent Green River Basin, but this supposition is little more than a sur-
mise thus far. The western limit could not have been beyond the
Wah Satch higher ridges, for reasons which will be obvious to those
Who read the remarks upon the age of that chain, in the section treat-
ing of the subject of the elevation of mountains.
The beds of the Bridger group, as a whole, are readily distinguisha-
ble from those of the Green River group, being mainly composed of dull-
colored indurated clays, and arenaceous layers of considerable thick-
ness, the latter usually brownish, or dull yellow or gray, often with more
or less of a concretionary structure. The clays are generally compacted,
but they become disintegrated upon exposure to the atmosphere, and
readily yield to the eroding forces. Some thinner layers of more calca-
reous material, with siliceous seams often affording interesting concre-
tions, are interspersed, but they are rather exceptional than otherwise.
These two groups of strata may also be readily distinguished wherever
seen by the great difference in the effects produced by erosion in each
case. As before remarked it is the tendency of the beds of the lower
series to present nearly vertical cliffs, so that the general impression
received in passing across the section in which they compose the surface
formation is that of traveling over an ordinary plain with occasional
descents by a succession of terraces to the narrow valleys of the streams;
on the contrary, the topography of the country wherever the Green River
beds are concealed or only occasionally capped by the members of the
Bridger group, is very irregular, often simulating that peculiar aspect
which has received the appropriate name of “bad lands” in other
regions. In some places at a distance from the mountains, as in the
neighborhood of Church Buttes, and between that point and Bryan
along the Union Pacific Railroad, the beds of this formation have been
so eroded without complete denudation, that they now stand out in
buttes by themselves, often with some slight resemblance to rude archi-
tectural forms. The now famous “Grizzly Buttes” southeast of Fort
Bridger belong to the Bridger group, and in that section the same essen-
tial features are observable, but the buttes are much more crowded, and
seldom so completely isolated as are those farther northward. This
intensely interesting subject will receive more attention in another chap-
ter. (See Erosion.)
The mineral characteristics of these Upper Eocene beds are generally
similar to those of the Lower group, but they are exhibited upon a much
larger scale, which may no doubt be mostly accounted for in the more
extensive erosion to which the Bridger group has been subjected, es-
pecially as there are numerous indications of changes of a secondary
nature. The subject can be more appropriately discussed beyond, (see
Shemical Geology,) but a brief review of the more common mineral forms
will be now given. Gypsum, in the forms of selenite, satin-spar, and,
more rarely, as alabaster, is very common. One of the most striking
features of many of the buttes is the silvery, glistening appearance Which
they present in the clear light of the sun, giving them at a little dis-
tance a very pleasing aspect. Closer investigation shows that this is
produced by the reflection from enormous quantities of bits of selenite
which lie strewn over the surface of the slopes. When found in situ it
usually occurs in thin layers between more extensive beds of other ma-
12S RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
terial, or in masses, the fibrous forms not unfrequently being rather geo-
diferous in their formation. Joints and planes of loose lamination are
commonly filled with selenite, or even with gypsum in the form of small
crystals, which are often ferruginous, or coated with ferric oxide. Calcite
is abundant in Several crystalline varieties, or calc-spar, also in other inter-
esting forms, occurring in similar manners to the gypsum, of which it occa-
sionally appears to be a pseudomorph. The presence of iron in consider-
able quantity is shown by the reddish color imparted to many of the rocks
upon Weathering, also by the accumulations of ferric oxide in the Crew-
ices, and in connection with imperfect organic impressions. Pyrites is
probably commonly distributed, though scarcely ever obtained in dis-
tinct crystals. Silica, in its remarkable development in these rocks,
constitutes one of the most interesting subjects which claim the atten-
tion of the chemical geologist in this section. Saline efflorescence, and
the connection of the so-called “alkali " deposits with much of Ithe his-
tory of the region, are topics which naturally fall within the imits of
another portion of this report, where they will be further treated.
Organic contents.-The scientific public, at least, are already familiar
with the great results which have accrued from the studies made by our
vertebrate-paleontologists of the remains which have been obtained in
such great abundance from the beds of the Bridger group, more espe-
cially from the vicinity of the Grizzly Buttes. The organic remains which
I have myself obtained from these strata are not numerous, but they
were obtained from new localities, as a rule, and may embrace one or
two new specific forms, though this is quite doubtful. From a ruggedly
weathered exposure of loosely compacted sandstones and conglomerates,
with some harder beds of white and slightly red sandstones, half a mile
northeast of Camp 10, on Little Sandy River, some poorly preserved
specimens of gasteropods (Melania 2) Were collected, with numerous
small fragments of turtles, Which were found partially imbedded in
the soil upon a small raised flat. At the foot of a prominent butte
standing entirely alone near Soublette's road, three miles or more
back from Camp 10, across the Big Sandy, a fragment of a costal plate
of the carapace of a Triomyº was obtained from about the same horizon.
B. D. Smith, one of our guides, who had collected for Professor Marsh,
brought from a locality above Camp 10, on the Little Sandy, at nearly
the same level, a caudal vertebra of a crocodile, a portion of the ilium
of a turtle, and the proximal extremity of the left humerus of a turtle.
Much higher in the series specimens of Planorbis were collected from a
bluff exposure at the foot of the Uintah Mountains west of the Grizzly
Buttes. It was possible only to collect from these beds, in the Imost
superficial manner, but enough was observed to convince the Writer that
a richer harvest than has yet been reaped a Waits the future collectors in
this field. -
CONCERNING THE AGE OF THE WIND RIVER, TERTIARY DEPOSITS
AND SOME OTHERS.
During one or more of the long Tertiary epochs, there was deposited
over the space included between the Wind River and Owl Creek ranges,
a lacustrine formation of great thickness, composed of beds of arena-
ceous and argillaceous material. The general character of the strata is,
on the whole, more like that of the Bridger group than that of the Green
River beds, and yet the formation cannot be said to closely resemble the
former, nor would such a similarity between the two series in lithological
features furnish, in itself, the least proof of identity of age. The sandy
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING, 129
marls of the Wind River deposits are frequently variegated, i. e., bands
of a bright red or a pinkish color are associated with the blue, greenish,
and light-colored beds of this material. But few fossils have ever been
obtained from this formation, and it will be wise to make no definite
Statement regarding its age until it has been more carefully studied.
The Whole group lies in a nearly horizontal position, and the erosion has
been so extensive that the beds are well exposed for observation, pro-
Vided one can regulate his course so as to seek the most favorable locali-
ties; hence it may be hoped that the future development of this region
may greatly add to our knowledge concerning them.
The arenaceous nature of most of the strata, and the oblique lamina-
tion of the sandstones and conglomerates, prove that they were deposited
in quite shallow water; and these facts will account for much of the
lack of organic remains. The thick deposits, on the other hand, of more
alluvial material, would suggest the probability of the preservation of
Some vertebrate remains. Hayden has reported the discovery of frag-
ments of the skeletons of Triomyº and Testudo, but diligent search along
our route was unrewarded by the sight of a single bone of any kind. It
is proper to mention here that a more definite statement concerning
these beds, published elsewhere,” was based upon the supposition that
some underlying beds, now believed to be Cretaceous, were of Tertiary
age.
In the same unsettled state must be left the Tertiary beds which are
exposed north of the Owl Creek Mountains, of small extent at present,
but in many respects resembling the Wind River deposits. There is
here, however, stronger proof that these are of later than Eocene date,
and it may be suggested that the Wind River deposits may prove to
have been laid down nearly simultaneously, but certainly in a separate
basin.
In all of these beds there is an absence of the great deposits of gypsum
and calcite, as would be readily supposed from their arenaceous charac-
ter. The topography, also, is different, from a similar cause, although
the erosion has been great, and interesting forms have been produced.
PLIO(|ENE DEPOSITS.
In the neighborhood of South Pass, extending across the Water-shed,
is a deposit which apparently represents the closing scenes of the lake
period in the Green River Basin. It would seem that during the Miocene
epoch, or near its close, while, perhaps, extensive but shallow lakes ex-
isted in the Wind River Valley, a portion of the Sweetwater Valley, and
north of the Owl Creek range, the waters upon the Western slope of
the Rocky Mountains had so far been drained off as to allow of partial
denudation of the old lake-bottom. During the next epoch (Pliocene)
a shallow lake spread over the northeastern portion of the Green River
Basin across the outlying metamorphic ridges, and connecting with a
body of fresh water which more or less covered the area occupied by
the Miocene (?) lake of the Sweetwater Valley. Figures 6, 7, and S are
intended to explain this idea, Without giving the slopes, elevations, or
distances with any degree of accuracy.
It should be understood that the Pliocene deposits are represented as
if local, merely because their boundaries are not known positively. In
these deposits in the Sweetwater Basin, Dr. Hayden has obtained fos-
* In a paper “On the Geology of Western Wyoming,” in Amer. Jour. Sci., vol. vi, De-
cember, 1873, *
H. EX. 285–9
130 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
sils which show close relation to those of the Niobrara River beds of
|Pliocene age. On the left bank of Little Popo-Agie River, some dis-
tance below the entrance of Deep Creek from the right bank, there is a
similar deposit of marls and laminated sandstones and conglomerates to
that near South Pass, which may be of Pliocene age. The South Pass
beds, as shown in Fig. 8, cross the outer portion of the metamorphic
rocks, and some of the beds contain pebbles from those beds of the
mountain nucleus.
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RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 131
the valleys of the streams, particularly in the lower valley of Pelican
Creek, and far down the Yellowstone River, where they become more
complicated, but on that account all the more interesting. An exami-
nation of these shows that the lake formerly extended over a much
larger area, and that it has held its place amid changes of great im-
portance. It is impossible for the most enthusiastic and imaginative
person to go beyond the truth in the description of the remarkable
events which are here recorded in this one page, as it were, of the
World’s history; but this is but the beginning of the end, for the mind,
even of the careful observer, fails to grasp in its entirety the vastness
of the variety which is here displayed.
It was during the later portion of the Tertiary age that much of the
volcanic activity took place which was so general over this portion of the
country, though probably only the closing stages of the lava flows are
represented by the eruptive deposits of the Pliocene epoch. As it will
be necessary to speak somewhat in detail of the history of those accum-
ulations in a section specially devoted to the subject of volcanic action,
a mere résumé of the deposits of Pliocene age will here be presented.
A Section of the lake sediments, taken on the present lake-shore, be-
tween Bluff Point and Steam Point, is as follows in descending order:
1. Grass-covered soil passing gradually to loose sand, 2 feet.
2. Various sand, gravel, and Spring deposits, with scattered irony con-
cretions, 6 feet.
3. White and dark lake sand, very thinly laminated, with beach
structure, and occasional irony layers, 5 feet.
4. About 15 feet of thinly laminated, blue-black clay, locally contorted
and beautifully cut by a small Till emanating as a spring from one of the
irony layers in No. 3. The Water is slightly chalybeate.
Other sections in this vicinity show the same general features with more
or less of variation. They represent the upper portion of the Pliocene
series, deposited toward the close of the era of volcanic activity, hence
the occasional beds of volcanic ejectamenta which were poured out into
the lake are mainly composed of volcanic sand and the finer textured
conglomerates, as may well be seen near Steamboat Springs. As we
descend the Valley of the Yellowstone River we find the lower members
of the group well exposed and the beds of unmodified” non-molten
material becoming more common. With increasing proportions of the
molten or lava Series, until the latter are almost universal, and doubtless
represent an earlier period, though frequently largely concealed by the
subsequent spring deposits. Near the close of the Pliocene epoch the
internal fires had so far died out that the igneous ejections were of fit-
ful occurrence, and geysers, solfataras, fumaroles, &c., abounded to an
almost incredible extent, giving rise to enormous deposits of siliceous
and calcareous material, which has continued to be deposited with
decreasing vigor until the present day. From the nature of the circum-
stances under which these rocks were deposited, but few fossils will be
expected, and yet there are some interesting facts which lead to the belief
that not a few organic remains now entombed in these strata are really
the relics of the Pliocene epoch and not of an earlier date. For a more
complete elaboration of this and other subjects of great interest con-
nected with this group the reader is referred to the dynamical portion
of this report.
* The term modified will be a convenient one to apply (as in the case of drift deposits)
to those lake or stream deposits which have been re-arranged by aqueous action, after
having been deposited in beds by eruption from volcanoes. Unmodified in this sense
applies to beds of volcanic sand and ashes thrown out into a lake without subsequent
re-arrangement.
132 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
CONCERNING THE A.G.E OF THE COAL OR LIGNITE GROUP.
It is not pretended that the true horizon of the contested coal series is
to be settled by the scraps of evidence which are now brought together,
nor is it probable that the little that the author can present in the shape
of newly obtained facts, will materially aid in promoting a decision of
the mooted question. The least that can be done, however, is to place
on record the field-notes of the writer, as far as they may bear upon the
Subject, and to show the grounds upon which they have been referred
to the Cretaceous epoch in this report. It would be presumptuous to at-
tempt, from so few opportunities of observation, to Solve a problem
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which has received the thoughtful consideration of the ablest minds
without satisfactory settlement. It will, therefore, not be expected that
the quesſion will be treated here, except with extreme brevity.




RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 133
The investigations of Clarence King, in particular, have shown that
the Westward continuation of the known Tertiary strata of the Green
River Basin is in a series of broad folds, and that the beds do not lie
horizontally, as is the case farther east. It has also been determined
that the Eocene series is there unconformable to the underlying coal
group, while the latter rests conformably upon the rocks of undoubted
Cretaceous age. Again, the formation of the coal was begun during the
Cretaceous epoch, probably while the Rocky Mountains were slowly ris-
ing, and several lignite beds were deposited during the marine era. It
is not difficult to believe that the elevation of a prominent chain in the
eastern ocean, which then beat upon the flank of the Wahsatch, would
gradually cut off the Green River Basin from free communication with
the sea, causing it to be occupied by a brackish-Water estuary, while
marine deposits were still accumulating in the east ; for it must be
borne in mind that the Unitah Mountains then existed as a prominent
range, as remarked by Clarence King. Continued gradual elevation
Would finally completely shut off the estuary basin from the ocean by
raising it higher, when the liquid contents would gradually become
fresh, provided that the outlet was not closed, as would probably be the
case, the elevation being gradual. The three accompanying sections
will show the idea more clearly, although some of the beds are neces-
Sarily represented as unconformable because it is impossible to show in
a drawing the gradual nature of the upheaval. Subsequent to the de-
position of the fresh-water beds here referred to the Cretaceous, the
whole series was disturbed westward, and the Tertiaries were afterward
unconformably deposited upon them. The question must at length be
decided upon the evidence furnished by the organic remains, no doubt :
but in the absence of conclusive evidence of this nature, it is not
unreasonable to suppose that such marked physical changes as took
place after the deposition of the fresh-water beds which underlie the
Green River group, would have been unnaturally local if they had
transpired between two of the fresh-water sub-epochs of the Tertiary
period. It would certainly be difficult to account for the deposition of
the estuary beds in the Green River Basin without the existence of a
sea to the eastward at nearly the same level, and in View of all the facts
thus far collected, to the writer at least, the belief that the coal-group
is of Cretaceous date seems much less difficult to support than the
opinion that the strata were formed during the Eocene epoch.
It is unnecessary to make more special mention of the coal-beds
which, it has been previously observed, are exposed in the caſion of
Buffalo Fork of Snake River, for the foregoing remarks are largely
based upon a study of that section, and no special features have been
elicited from them.
C E A P T E R V .
STRATIGAPHY, CONTINUED,
Post-Tertiary and recent Glacial and Champlain epochs—Terrace epoch.
From the numerous organic remains entombed in the strata of the
Eocene epoch, we learn that the climate over a large portion of the
Rocky Mountain region was tropical or subtropical; but the gradual
elevation of the mountains to a considerable distance above the Sea-
level, with, perhaps, other causes now too little understood, produced
134 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
also more or less gradual changes in the climatic conditions. Hence we
find that the plants and other relics collected from the Miocene beds
indicate a climate cooler than that of the Eocene epoch, though
milder than that of the present day. This condition of things con-
tinued with little apparent change during the Pliocene epoch, or
until near its close. In Eocene times there roamed over the western
continental hills and plains vast numbers of peculiar mammals, and
in the dense forests innumerable birds filled the air with sonorous notes,
while reptiles of the most varied forms sought the darkers recesses of
the murky swamps, and fishes and molluscs in Wonderful variety in-
babited the great fresh-water lakes. Then was presented a scene in
many respects similar to what may now be viewed in some of the more
elevated portions of the tropics where lakes abound, but on a scale more
Vast than has ever been witnessed by human eyes. The “struggle
for existence,” ever more severe in tropical regions than in milder
climes, resulted in the destruction of millions upon millions of indi-
viduals, the remains of which, as Dana remarks, are now coming to a
Inew “existence” through the researches of our eminent paleontologists.
Slowly but steadily the growing severity of the climate doubtless com-
pelled the dominant forms to maintain their positions by successively
Imore vigorous contests until they were finally compelled to seek the
lower latitudes nearer the sea-level, and finally to succumb to their in-
evitable fate when the climate had reached the climax of severity,
thus forcing them into a small area southward. Dr. Newberry (Hay-
den's Report on Wyoming, 1870, p. 337) has well suggested that ex-
posure to such vicissitudes would have less effect upon some of the more
hardy plants than with animals, on account of the smaller space re-
quired by the former for support; hence, as he concludes, the cause of
the greater similarity of our flora than of our fauna to that of the Mio-
cene epoch. The rise of the land continued during the Pliocene epoch,
and the more elevated lakes were gradually drained, thus adding to the
increasing rigor of the climate. There are probably few who will in-
sist, after a careful study of the facts, that the period of extremely low
temperature which undoubtedly succeeded the Pliocene epoch, was
wholly the outcome of the mountain elevation. However this may be,
this is not the place for discussing the influence of cosmical causes in
bringing about the results which followed. We will, therefore, turn our
attention directly to the main features of the deposits of the more
modern periods, without here entering deeply into the subject of the
forces employed in their accumulation.
POST-TERTIARY, OR QUATERNARY SYSTEM.
We have now reached a point in geological history beyond which it
will be impossible to divide the separate formations into so many dis-
tinct and related groups, and we shall find, as we proceed, that we have
entered upon the discussion of a series of events of a more inodern
character than those which have preceded, many of which still continue
with diminished energy and effect. The close of the Pliocene epoch
left the country in the neighborhood of the mountains in a partially
exposed condition. During all the previous periods erosion had taken
place upon a grand scale, but the material transported had been Only
removed to short distances from the mountain eminences, and it was
then accumulated at their bases in such a manner as to add largely to
the elevations of the surrounding plateaus. The streams were so small
and so swollen at intervals by large lakes, not remarkably high above
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 135
the level of the sea, that their erosive power was comparatively slight,
except for short distances. It is probable that the lakes were fed by
numerous small tributaries from all sides, rather than by one large inlet
receiving the contributions of many branches.
The draining of the lake basins, and the elevation of the land, with
the accompanying decrease of temperature, would increase the amount
of erosion by giving greater slope to the surface, and by combining
more extensively into river-systems the hitherto independent streams.
This would also be facilitated by the precipitation of the moisture as
Snow in the place of rain, as before. Such, in brief, were the conditions
at the close of the Pliocene epoch.
GLACIAL AND CHAMIPLAIN EPO CHS.
Evidences are not rare in the West, north of the 41st parallel at least,
of the former existence of a period during which there occurred the
principal phenomena which have had such an important influence in
shaping the surface-features eastward. However difficult it may be to
fully account for the important climatic changes which succeeded the
Tertiary period, there is now no reason to doubt that the Pleistocene, or
Post-tertiary period, was opened by an epoch of frigidity with a climate
similar to that of the subarctic regions at present. In seeking for the
causes of such an apparent difference in temperature between these con-
tiguous eras, it is necessary to bear in mind the fact that the cold of
the glacial epoch was universal over the northern portion of our globe;
hence it is unnecessary to suppose that that portion of the Rocky Moun-
tain region lying south of the forty-fifth parallel was elevated much, if
any, higher above the level of the sea than in the Pliocene epoch, for
the extreme severity of the climate farther north would have had a
chilling influence upon the temperature in the lower latitudes. Judg.
ing from the observations of others southward, it is concluded that the
lower limit of the ancient glaciers of this age in the West was not far
from its latitude in the east, i. e., about 39° N., or in Colorado, near the
latitude of Pike's Peak.
Inasmuch as the drift-deposits in many portions of the Rocky
Mountain chain are often of comparatively small extent, and usually
bear evidence of transport for short distances only, it would seem that
the glaciers from which they came were more local in character than were
those which then existed farther to the east. Dr. Hayden, whose oppor-
tunities of observation have been very extended, has repeatedly re-
marked in his reports that he has “never been able to find any evidence
in the Rocky Mountain region of what is usually termed a northern
(lrift.”
There is, however, little doubt that the glacial deposits in this section
are synchronous with those which exist in the east, and it is the opinion
of the present author that the causes of the actual differences can
mostly be explained. This will be rendered more plain as we proceed;
but, first, it will be well to take a cursory glance at the deposits as they
occur in Western Wyoming.
In passing southward from Fort Bridger toward the Uintah Moun-
tains, the buttes are frequently found covered with small fragments of
rarious rocks, which are quite firmly imbedded so as to resemble a varie-
gated pavement. Many of them represent the more recent formations,
being largely siliceous, and these may owe their present position to the
action of water, or other causes, not entirely during the glacial period,
which is probably the case when found upon the terraces of the streams.
136 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
Associated with these in many places, however, are undoubted drift-
pebbles, composed of materials from the earlier strata, and deposits of
the finer and coarser mixed gravels of considerable thickness are not
infrequently exposed along the banks of the streams. The remarkable
extent of the erosion over the Green River Basin, and its relations to
the surrounding mountains, make it unsafe to generalize upon all the
phenomena of the Drift period in this section, without extended obser-
vation of the facts; but it may be said that the features already men-
tioned rapidly increase in importance as the Uintah Mountains are
approached, showing clearly that much of the material was transported
from that direction. Much of the structure of the Uintah range,
particularly near the line of junction between the tilted strata and the
nearly horizontal Tertiary beds, is obscured by very thick deposits of
drift-material, and the harder formations of the outlying ridges have
been eroded into rounded hills by glacial agency, as is shown by the
quantities of bowlders which are strewn over their summits and down
their sides.
Northward from Fort Bridger the drift-deposits seem to thin out,
and finally almost to disappear until pebbles of the metamorphic series
begin to be seen beyond Green River, and they gradually increase in
size and amount northward to South Pass, in the vicinity of which some
of the rounded hills of Pliocene strata are covered with numerous heavy
bowlders. One mile south of Dry Sandy Creek a bowlder thirty inches
in diameter was observed lying over beds of probably Eocene age,
though now well imbedded in the soil. The water-divide at South
Pass is composed of Pliocene rocks, which were deposited in a lake
which covered the upturned edges of the metamorphic group, and it is
evident that the erosion of the valley of the Sweetwater, in at least a
portion of its extent at this point, was accomplished during the glacial
epoch, for the stream has since, in some places, cut its way through the
drift-deposits. Over the district from South Pass to Camp Stambaugh,
the erosion has been great, and numerous local valleys have been
formed, many of which are now filled in With moraine-deposits, or occa-
sionally with modified drift. Bowlders are scattered over the surface in
many places, but they are, perhaps, less numerous than might be ex-
pected. Between South Pass City and Camp Stambaugh, particularly
near Atlantic City, a very fine road has been laid out through the accu-
mulations of the fine material, and over several quite large moraines.
Much drift, composed of quartz, quartzites, and a great variety of
fragments of the metamorphic rocks, largely covers the slopes of the
hills above Beaver Creek. The two forks of Twin Creek are separated
by part of a moraine, jutting out from the hills in a direction nearly
northeast, (N. 400 E.) Deep Creek Valley (Red Cañon, see Fig. 4,)
was probably cut during this epoch, and it was then partially filled
with the detritus of the Triassie brick-red sandstones, which was modi-
fied by the action of the water. Between the Little Popo-Agie and
the North Fork of the Popo-Agie River erosion has been extensive,
and heavy drift-deposits occur. The same may be said of the coun-
try lying between North Fork and Camp Brown, where these fea-
tures are noticeable on a larger scale. On the trip from Camp Brown
to Chimney Rocks, described in Chapter I, the evidence of ancient
glacial action was abundant. At intervals along the northeastern
slope of the Wind River Mountains, the various streams emerge from
the mountains through narrow caſions with nearly Vertical walls hun-
dreds of feet in height, but an examination of the country inside of
the great ridge of limestone of the Carboniferous age shows that each
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 137
of these cañons receives the accumulated waters of several prominent
tributaries which rise in the mountain nucleus far to the northward or
southward. Moreover, the higher points of the nucleus stand as islets
hundreds and often thousands of feet above the
sources of the streams at their base. Clearly, |
then, we have here complete proof of an amount
of erosion since the elevation of the range Which,
without this evidence, would seem almost incred-
ible. But this is but a small part of it, for there
are in this section magnificent and extensive
parks; long and high moraines, composed of
huge granitic bowlders, stretch like vast walls
across the way, with intervening lakes or ponds;
scattered bowlders of other material, and im-
mense blocks of the tougher sedimentary strata
of Silurian age, are to be seen in the greatest pro-
fusion ; yawning chasms many hundreds of feet
in depth have been scooped out of the very sum-
mits of the highest ridges, and the numerous
water-courses now follow channels which they
could never have cut for themselves.
The deposits of the drift are in general abun-
dant across the Wind River plateau, decreasing
in amount toward the main stream until an in-
crease is again apparent upon approaching the
Owl Creek Mountains. Northward from Camp
Brown the coarser bowlder ingredients are more
common, and the streams which flow out from
the Wind River range, including Bull Lake Fork,
i
one case the valley of Wind River has been cut
for some distance through an extensive deposit
of this nature. This is shown in Fig. 12, which
represents a section across the main stream, be-
tween the mouths of North Fork and a smaller
stream from the right bank a short distance
above.
'assing up the Wind River Valley from this
point the materials are found to become gradually finer, with occasional
exposures along the river-banks of some modified drift. The materials
also appear to change Character somewhat, and to partake more of the
nature of the Volcanic rocks of the Sierra Shoshone.
To return to the Owl Creek range : The evidences of glacial action are
not rare, and the erosion and deposits of this epoch have greatly added
to the complications in the structure of the outlying ridges. It would
are often seen passing directly to the main river Š #5.
by continuous cañons, at right angles to the Q = T.
trend of the mountains. Such streams are usu- Ś 3
ally bounded by heavy deposits of drift-bowlders, Š/#:
composed of granitic and metamorphic rocks * =
from the nucleus of the Wind River range. Fre- ==
Quently these accumulations are found filling > =
large hollows which had been previously eroded / z-
in the Tertiary and lower stratified rocks, and in º #
Ž
2.
à


138 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN W YOMING.
appear that the greater effect has been produced upon the northern
slope, although it is often much less rugged than upon the Southern side.
As good a place as could be desired for the study of the dynamics of
the early Quaternary period is the region inclosed by the trail of our
party during the two months' absence from Camp Brown. The remark-
able caſion of the main stream of Owl Creek, far more deserving of the
name of river than three-fourths of the larger streams of the district,
now undoubtedly marks the course of a former glacier of great power,
for the remains of the ancient drift-deposits are abundantly exposed in
many places along its borders, where they have been cut through by
the stream. The same may be said of many other channels originating
in the Sierra Shoshone, and in lesser degree of nearly all the minor or
Secondary Water-courses, but it is only when we pass across to the main
upper tributaries of Snake River that we can form an adequate idea of
the enormous amount of the material which must have been worn away
during the glacial era. In numerous places between the Two Ocean
Pass and the Tógwote Pass, the finer materials of the drift are well
exposed in sections along the streams, showing that a formation at least
500 feet in thickness was deposited during this epoch.
The study of the Rocky Mountain drift, when it can be entered upon
without special regard to other subjects, will fully reward those who
Imay undertake it. It would greatly exceed the limits of this work to
attempt anything like a complete discussion of its history, and the most
that can now be done is to give very briefly an outline of the author's
conclusions so far as they seem warranted by the facts. We must be-
lieve, from the enormous thickness of the Tertiary strata which were
deposited at the base of the higher elevations, that the denudation
which had been produced at the beginning of the Quaternary period
was very great, and this view is well corroborated by the records which
have come down to us. Before the close of the Miocene epoch the an-
ticlinal of the Wind River Mountains had so far been eroded that the
Sweetwater Basin then, as now, formed a portion of the Atlantic drain-
age system ; and the same is true of the Wind River Basin. The Green
River Basin during at least the latter part of the Eocene epoch was oc-
cupied by a lake which probably shed its water into the Uintah Basin,
though by a different channel from that of the present Green River.
The existing caſions through the hard limestone ridge upon the north-
eastern slope of the Wind River range were doubtless begun during the
Cretaceous period, toward its close. We may, then, with good reason
suppose that a section across the main chain at the beginning of the
glacial epoch would be essentially as indicated in Fig. 13 by the broken
line. The dotted lines may be taken to represent, in a general way, the
relative positions of the bed of the main branch of Little Wind River
along its course through the mountains, though it is obvious that this
cannot be done with great accuracy. It would require a dozen sections
to show the variations in the transverse outlines of this range at differ-
ent points, but it is believed that the most prominent features are fairly
exhibited in the accompanying figure. Leaving the reader to supply
the details of the argument from the facts which have already been given,
it may be remarked that the conclusion seems natural enough that the
main glacier of this region followed a course very nearly coincident with
the axis of the range, probably gradually increasing in size, from a mere
cap at the summit until it had spread so as to fill a large portion of the
space between the flanking Carboniferous ridges, thus wearing for itself
an irregular channel in a southeasterly direction. At various points
along its sides the material inclosed in the ice was separated from the
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 139
main glacier and carried down into the plains and distributed. There
is also some reason for believing that the northeastern slope of the
mountains was in many places denuded by glacial action so as to leave
small lakes outside of the limestone-ridge, or, perhaps, one or more
larger lakes, with very irregular outline, and quite uneven bottom, in
which the bowlders and finer material were deposited. Be this as it may,
there is abundant evidence that the glacier escaped over this edge of
the range at several points.
For my own part, after the
careful review of a large
number of facts, collected at
every point along our route,
I am disposed to regard the
period of drift-deposition,
Over a considerable portion
of the Rocky Mountain re-
gion, as made up of two
epochs, and it is highly
probable that they were
Dearly synchronous with
the Glacial and Champlain
epochsin the east. This view
has been adopted in the ar-
rangement of these deposits
ls,
*
… * > * *
*
*
Ž
.*
>
in the Stratigraphic Chart
accompanying Chapter III.
To express this idea more 2 #3;
clearly, but much too briefly, .# St $
it is probable that the Plio- ####
cene epoch was followed in # ====
this section by a gradual * 33 #:
diminution of heat, which § 3 s ==
caused the lower limit of per- # = = g
petual congelatiou to de- – 5 = #
scend by degrees from near 5 * =# 3
the summit of the moun- == I ==
tains. == 5 T5
Thé first erosive effects Egg:
were therefore produced § 3.5 s :
near the axes of the ranges, s
and the courses of the chan-
nels produced in each case
would very largely depend
upon the surface features,
but with a prevailing South-
ern direction. At first one
of the great causes of glacier
motion—the difference be-
tween summer and Winter
temperature — Would prob-
ably be almost Wanting, but this would also continue to increase, though
perhaps never becoming. So great as in many other parts of the country.
For a long time the erosion of the tilted strata remote from the axes
would be accomplished by water from the melting snows, and thus
channels would be cut and the river-courses upon the plains would be
º
§§
gº.
3.
f
(,
^

140 |RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
marked out. As the snow-line came nearer the plains the glacial action
would become apparent also ; and still later smaller side-glaciers would,
doubtless, partly follow the larger valleys or cañons, widening them and
often slightly altering their courses. Through some of these valleys
and in places over the ridges through which the Water-caſions had been
cut, some portions of the main glacier would finally escape. It might
happen that one of the side-glaciers would dam up the main Valley be-
low the mountains, forming a lake above itself, which would distribute
the bowlders and finer material according to size. In places along the
Wind River Valley, above Lake Fork, this feature is displayed, and
elsewhere in the narrower portions of other Valleys. Later still, the
melting of these ice-streams gave rise to accumulations of fine and
coarse materials which were afterward re-arranged by the streams, ac-
cording to the force of their currents, in the upper valleys usually being
stratified irregularly as modified drift, while the very fine particles were
often carried below and deposited in the undrained lakes.
To sum up, then, it is the author's opinion that these deposits may be
conveniently divided into two groups, sufficiently distinct in character
and origin to warrant the belief that they represent the two eastern
epochs, generally known as the Glacial and the Champlain—the free2.
ing and the thawing eras, as they may not inaptly be termed.
During the freezing or Glacial epoch, glaciers spread widely over the
more elevated portions of the Rocky Mountain region, and the effects
produced by them were enormous, but mainly local.
The general direction of the motion was from the northwest, but
greatly modified by the slopes of the country. Erosion by Water and
ice was very great, and in some places inamense deposits of bowlder's
and detritus were formed.
The deposits which I have referred to the Champlain epoch may be-
long in part to the Glacial epoch, for it can hardly be said that it is
proper, in all cases, to separate these eras. All over the Green River
Basin, in the Wind River Valley, and elsewhere upon the plains, away
from the mountains, the materials of the drift are widely but thinly
scattered, the particles gradually increasing in size as the mountains
are approached. Thus, fine pebbles of red sandstone from the Wah-
satch or the Uintah range, twenty to fifty miles distant, may be ob-
tained from the summits of some of the higher benches north of Fort
Bridger, and the metamorphic series of the Wind River range begins to
be represented before these disappear. Clearly these are not the direct
products of a glacier, but the facts would seem to indicate deposition by
re-arrangement in the waters of a shallow lake, as Hayden has remarked.
The agency of small icebergs might be suspected, but the arrangement
of the materials according to size is too regular for the support of that
supposition. The large isolated bowlder noticed south of Dry Sandy
Creek, with some others nearer the mountains, may have been thus
transported for a short distance, but these are quite exceptional. The
principal reason which can at present be offered for referring these a C-
cumulations in the Green River Basin to the Champlain epoch is, per-
haps, not very conclusive, but it affords some little ground for such a pro-
visional classification. It is this: If the lake over the bottom of Which
they were spread, had existed during the glacial epoch, it is but reason-
able to suppose that in this long period of time a considerable thickness
of material of various sizes would have been deposited from the Wear of
the mountains, but this has not been observed; hence it is probable that
this lake was a later body of water caused by the melting of the glacier's
RECONNAISSANBE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 141
Upon its borders, and the accumulation of morainal débris, which were
assorted, as it were, according to Weight, by its waters. But there are
Other deposits of greater thickness in various localities, which, by their
position overlying the drift, show that they are of more recent date. It
is impossible to do more than to enumerate them here. They are—
1. Deposits of modified drift of varying thickness, mostly exposed
along the banks of existing or ancient streams.
2. Deposits of “till,” sometimes of great thickness, evidently deposited
during the melting period in the deeper portions of the lakes, or in other
more local lakes.
3. The connection of the graduated drift, as it may be called, with the
other Quaternary deposits in the Wind River Valley renders the reference
to this age of similar accumulations in other localities more probably
COrrect.
TERRACE EPOCEI.
The transition from the Drift era, including the Glacial and Cham-
plain epochs, to the succeeding epoch in the earth's history, was certainly
not abrupt, and inasmuch as we are now dealing, as in the whole of this
chapter, with surface-formations which are still being subjected to great
changes by reason of their exposure to destructive agencies, it is often
difficult to determine correctly the synchronism of results. Moreover,
the forces which were at Work during the epoch immediately succeeding
the Drift era are still active, and many of them had produced such great
effects previous to the Quaternary period that the glacial denudation was
insufficient to eradicate them. There is no lack of proof that the pres-
ent drainage-system over the southern portion of our district was at
least outlined as early as the close of the Cretaceous epoch, while over
the northern portion changes have probably been produced by the igne.
ous outflows, but still the present courses of the streams are mainly
through channels of ancient erosion. But even in these regions there is
enough to indicate that the epoch of the Champlain deposits was followed
by a period during which the valleys were cut deeper, apparently by a
succession of impulses imparted to the strealms, and the records of this
time are now to be seen in the form of terraces which more or less regul-
larly follow the general courses of the present river-channels. The ero-
sion of the valleys by the stream still goes on, but there was evidently
a long era in the past when this action was upon a grander Scale, and
to this indefinite and transitional period it is convenient to give the name
of Terrace epoch.
Concerning the causes of the fluctuations of level in the stream-beds,
little can be said in a work of the local nature of this report, for it is
necessary to accumulate evidence from a wide extent of country, in
order to fairly discuss the subject; but the author may, perhaps, be
pardoned for the expression of an opinion in this place, not hastily
formed, but greatly confirmed by observations in the upper valley re-
gions of a large number of streams during our trip. There are yet a
large number of geologists who, though ever ready to acknowledge the
inconceivable length of geologic time when found necessary to explain
many phenomena, are still prejudiced to the old theories, which refer
all great changes in the surface-features of the earth to the action of
internal forces. There is, however, a growing conviction in numerous
minds that this is a serious error, and it is the candid opinion of the
writer that the production of these terraces, except in rare instances, is
very largely the result of external causes.
142 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
Many interesting varieties in the forms of the terraces may be
observed, some of which will be again referred to when considering the
subject of erosion. A few only of the more common examples will be
mentioned here. In many portions of the Green River Basin, particu-
larly in sections in which the lower or Green River group is the surface-
formation, the approach to the larger streams upon each side is made
over a succession of extensive and quite regular terrace-benches; and
in some places the same regularity is noticeable in the minor valleys.
Elsewhere in this basin, and perhaps much more commonly, the surface
of the terraces bordering ancient streams has been much changed, so
that it is not always an easy matter to determine their courses. Fine
examples of regular benches are also to be seen in the Wind River Val-
ley and in other places away from the mountains.
Even in the gorges of the streams issuing from the rugged Sierra
Shoshone, this structure is often observable, though now much obscured
by the growth of trees. In the valley of the Yellowstone River, at
Imany points, the terraces can be readily made out, but their surface is
largely Scored by gulleys, which cause them to appear less regular than
they really are. One of the best places for the study of the effects of
running water upon the beds of streams is the section of country be-
tween the Two-Ocean Pass and Tógwote Pass, where there is probably
as much variety in the results as could well be found over an equal area
elsewhere.
EIUMAN PERIOD.
The close of the Terrace epoch brings down the history of the earth
to a time when the present conditions were in force, and the changes
which have since taken place are of comparatively slight extent,
although much has been done in the way of denudation, transportation,
and deposition, from which important local formations have not unfre-
quently resulted. Some very prominent recent deposits, which have
been in process of formation during several of the preceding epochs,
have been lightly passed over, that their history may be more clearly
elucidated by comparison with similar action now in progress. Such
are the hot-spring and geyser deposits, many of which doubtless origi-
nated long before the present epoch, but, being laow active and of special
interest from their comparative rarity, it has been thought desirable to
devote one or more chapters to their exclusive consideration. It is also
proposed in succeeding chapters to treat as completely as opportunity
will allow of the forces or causes which have produced the effects pre-
viously discussed. It is consequently unnecessary to speak very fully
of the remaining general deposits of the human period which exist in
the district under consideration, for they are almost entirely the direct
results of local action, which can usually be traced with little difficulty.
The so-called alkali deposits, and the rather common dunes, mounds,
and furrows of Wind-blown sand, will each receive due attention in the
part of the work devoted to dynamical geology, and this passing allu-
sion must here suffice. The same remark may be made concerning the
prehistoric and other relics, which will receive special mention beyond.
There are not a few other topics also about which much of interest and
importance might be written, such as come more properly within the
scope of the science of zoology. These also must be left for review
in another portion of the report, and this chapter may appropriately
conclude with Some— -
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 143
GENERAL IREMAIRKS ON THE POST-TERTIARY AND EIUMAN
PERIODS.
Whatever may have been the cause of the cold of the glacial epoch,
there can be but little doubt that by some means the northern portion
of the continent was raised to a considerable height above the level of
the sea during the period of its continuance. The resulting glaciers
extended far to the southward, causing great erosion of the surface over
a very wide area, but the effects produced near the summit of the Rocky
Mountains, though frequently of much importance, were usually of a
local character. The general course of the motion of the ice-sheet
between the forty-first and the forty-fifth parallels was about southeast,
varying according to circumstances to a greater or less degree. It may
be suggested—the writer is not sufficiently familiar with the facts far-
ther south to offer it as a confirmed opinion—that the cause of the local
nature of the deposits, resulting from comparatively slight glacier mo-
tion, was the gradual change of climate after the Pliocene epoch. In
other words, if the decrease of temperature was almost wholly owing to
the slow approach of glaciers from the north, we will suppose that the
Wind River Mountain glacier, for instance, did not fairly begin its
erosive action until one-third of the glacial epoch had elapsed ; that is
to say, one-third of the Whole time during which the bulk of the glacier
existed in the north. Now, we know that there was a more or less grad-
ual reversal of these conditions during the Champlain epoch, and it may
have happened that the climate at the Supposed point farther north
would cause the glacier there to continue as much longer as it had before
preceded the Wind River Mountain ice-mass. Thus the latter would
have just one-third as much time, with much less force for the perform-
ance of its work of erosion and transportation. Upon this supposition,
it is not necessary that the effects produced should be found to decrease
Quite gradually as we go southward, for the amount of erosion or
transportation effected at any one point depends quite as much upon
the resistance as upon the power employed. The author must lot be
understood to imply by these remarks that the formation of the more
southern portions of the great ice-sheet was separated from the Pliocene
epoch by a greater interval of time than was the case farther north,
though this may have been true. In such a case, it is more than likely
that all the southern Pliocene beds are not synchronous With What might
be called the parachromous beds farther north, using the latter term in
the sense of beds of the same relative age.
The Champlain epoch, as a whole, Was one of relative approach of the
land elevations to the sea-level, and during this era the climate gradually
became more mild from the diminished amount of Surface above the Sea.
There was then a partial return toward Lower Tertiary conditions, and
the valleys were partially filled with material washed from the deposits
of the melted glaciers, which was afterward partly removed by the
action of the streams during the Tertiary epoch. The fauna of the West
became enlarged, and finally man entered upon the Scene, leaving behind
him relies of his rude skill, with monuments of his Superstitions. Pass-
ing down thus through the prehistoric period, We next find proofs of
the existence of later tribes, who have left us far too little of themselves,
and by degrees we come to the present Indian families spread apart by
fortune and misfortune until their tribal relations are even less under-
stood by each other than by the White man who makes them his study.
Accompanying man, or rather accompanied by man, in his nomadic
144 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING
condition, large herds of ruminating animals next crowd the plains,
deriving therefrom their sustenance. With remorseless hand, the wily
savage drives them from their haunts, and in a few short years spreads
their bones far and Wide across the country. Literally exterminating as
he goes, for a brief While he rules supreme, when, pushing eastward to
seek the food-supply of which his reckless waste has deprived him, he is
met by other tribes more savage than himself, pressed westward by a
power greater than hunger—the onward march of civilization. Then
begins another conflict, and the records which have hitherto been the
property of the geologist and the archaeologist are silently placed in the
keeping of the historian, where We must leave them.
C EIA P T E R V I.
STRATIGRAPHY-RECAPITULATION.
General review, with economic geology—Fort Bridger and Uintah Mountains—North-
ward to South Pass and Camp Stambaugh—Sweetwater gold-mines—To Camp Brown
and across Wind River Valley—Owl Creek Mountains—Sierra Shoshone, &c.—Yel-
lowstone Park and return.
It is only intended in this chapter to give a very general description
of the geology of the district traversed by Captain Jones in 1873, for the
benefit of those who may require a concise statement of the facts in
local order. In connection with this review, some few topics bearing
upon the economic geology of the region will also be very briefly consid-
ered. Should fuller information upon any special subject be desired, it
will usually be found more completely discussed in another portion of
the report, which may readily be ascertained by reference to the alpha-
betical index at the close of the work. -
From Creston, on the continental divide, at an elevation of 7,030 feet
above the sea, the traveler on the Union Pacific Railway passes down
to the valley of Green River, and beyond across the plains to the Wah-
satch Mountains, over and among the fresh-Water Tertiary deposits of
the great Green River Basin, striking in the western portion the tilted
brackish and fresh-water strata, containing large deposits of coal, which
are referred in this report to the Cretaceous period. Leaving the rail-
road at Carter station, nearly sixty miles West of Green River City, a
wagon-road is found running eleven miles southward, to Fort Bridger,
which pursues an undulating course over successive benches of the low-
est Tertiary formation, known as the Green River group. This repre-
sents the Lower Eocene epoch in the earth's history, and is well exposed
Over a wide extent of country. -
FORT TBRIDGER AND THE UINTAEI MOUNTAINS.
Fort Bridger is pleasantly located in the well-watered valley of Black's
Fork, having been a prominent station on the old overland stage-route
to California. This was the initial point of our reconnaissance ; but the
writer was able to pass in review the country southward to the Uintah
range, which forms a prominent natural boundary in this section, and
it will be well to notice its peculiarities. South of west from the Post,
the principal feature in the landscape is a flat-topped hill or bench, called
Bridger Butte, rising to a height of more than seven hundred feet above
the valley-level at the Fort. This is also interesting from the fact that
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 145
its upper portion is composed of mostly arenaceous beds of the Upper
Eocene formation, or Bridger group, while its base contains more cal-
Careous beds of the Green River group. The Green River beds are ex-
posed in part in the vicinity of Fort Bridger, and to some extent south-
Ward ; but as we pass toward the mountains, the sandstones and the
indurated clays of the Bridger group appear at the surface, and finally
entirely conceal the underlying formation. Still farther south, the denu.
dation has been less effective, and a great thickness of the Bridger beds
is revealed in the sides of the buttes and benches. In some places, as at
the locality known as Grizzly Buttes, the erosion has produced remark-
able forms, and the argillaceous strata are cut through so extensively as
to afford numerous exposures of their fossil contents, which are very
largely made up of the remains of extinct vertebrate animals.
The Tertiary beds in the vicinity of the mountains dip very slightly,
and they jut against the northern Siope of the Uintahs in a manner
which plainly indicates that they were deposited after the upheaval of
that range. Thick accumulations of the fine and coarse materials of
the drift are so common that the structure of the point of junction is
much obscured ; but examinations of sections at several points show that
the sedimentary rocks to the close of the Jurassic period were repre-
sented in the main upheaval. The Mesozoic rocks seem to cover the
underlying formations to a greater extent in the Uintab range than
is common in the Rocky Mountain system.
Drift is abundant and coarse toward the central portion of the Uintahs,
somewhat gradually decreasing in size and quantity north Ward. It is
very difficult, however, without extended examination, to determine the
amount of this material which may have been the result of glacial action
in the Wahsatch Mountains. Accumulations of Some extent exist in
the vicinity of Fort Bridger, to the origin of which a hasty review of the
country southward furnishes little or no clew. There are very interest-
ing questions connected with the history of similar deposits over the
whole district, which deserve careful attention in the future. -
The return from the mountains is much more satisfactory to One
desirous of gathering only general facts, for it enables the observer at
many points to obtain views of the country extending over a wide area.
The traveler across the Green River Basin can obtain but an inadequate
idea of the vast amount of erosion which has taken place since the depo-
sition of the horizontal strata, without passing (lo Wil through the Valleys
of the northward-bound streams from the present Summit of the Bridger
group of beds.
FROM FORT BRIDGER, VIA SOUTH PASS, TO CAMIP STAMIBAUGH.
Along our route, the Bridger group is exposed at the surface over a
considerable extent of country northward and east Ward from Fort
Bridger, and numerous isolated buttes, largely composed of the strata
of this formation, are met before reaching Little Sandy River, While a
number exist beyond this point, which are merely capped With these
beds. Between Bryan and Church Buttes, on the railroad, there is an
interesting collection of buttes which are weathered into forms slightly
resembling the Grizzly Buttes, but much less crowded and irregular.
The Green River beds are exposed beneath the Bridger group over the
whole country north of Fort Bridger, and beyond the Little Sandy they
are at the surface almost to Pacific Creek. This formation is now noted
for the abundant and finely-preserved remains of fishes and land-plants
which it has yielded, particularly in the railroad-cuttings not far
H. E.X. 2S5—10
146 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WW YOMING.
from Green River City. A shale highly charged with petroleum is also
found, containing the remains of fishes. This was met upon our trip
above Robinson's Ferry on the right bank of Green River. Its fuel.
properties are fair, but no economical methods of utilizing it have yet been
proposed on account of the great amount of waste Which clogs the fur-
nace and Smothers the fire. It is not probable that it will soon be brought
into use, as the supply of better material near at hand will be sufficient
for all demands for a long time.
The coal of this country occurs in a group which underlies the fresh-
water Tertiaries. It is not exposed along the road between Fort
Bridger and South Pass; but it is worked at several points along the
railroad east and west. In the neighborhood of the Wahsatch Mount-
ains, the strata are much tilted and the coal is easily reached. East of
Green River City, the coal-bearing group is nearly or quite conformable
to the overlying Tertiary series, and is occasionally found by boring at
some distance beneath the surface. East of the continental divide, sim-
ilar beds underlie a large area of the country, and a thriving mining-
town has sprung up at Carbon station, half-way between Creston and
Laramie.
Shallow-water lacustrine beds of the Pliocene epoch are seen in quan-
tity near Pacific Springs, though not extending far southward over the
plains. These have spread across the outlying portions of the meta-
morphic series of the Wind River Mountains near South Pass, and they
have been greatly denuded since their deposition. Remnants are now
left standing in the shape of immense buttes, forming prominent land-
marks to the traveler in this region.
Passing northward from Fort Bridger, the drift-material thins out
gradually, then increases by degrees until it is rather abundant near
South Pass, its size increasing in about the same proportion. Alkali
deposits, chalcedonic masses and concretions, deposits of gypsum and
calcite, and interesting changes in the minor surface-features by wind
and, Water action, are among the more important peculiarities which
claim a share of the attention of those who shall make the Green River
Basin the field of geological labors.
The low divide at South Pass might readily be crossed without being
observed, except by the most watchful traveler; for there is no high
ridge to mark the passage from the Pacific to the Atlantic waters, and
the change in direction of the streams upon each side would scarcely
be noticed, unless special attention were given. The water-divide is
not the geological divide, or axis of the anticlinal, which is situated
some little distance beyond, and is often lower than portions outside the
nucleus of the mountains. It will thus be seen that the Sweetwater
River rises upon the southwestern slope of the Wind River range, but
cuts its Way across to join the Atlantic water-system without escaping
to the plains of the Green River Basin. Near the point at which the
road Crosses, it runs in a narrow caſion through the metamorphic slates
and Schists, Occasionally meeting with a swell or basin filled with Plio-
cene Strata, Or the more recent accumulations of the Post-Tertiary
period. Below this it meets with the fresh-water sediments of a lake
which existed probably in the Miocene epoch, occupying what is now
termed the Sweetwater Basin.
The metamorphic slates pass rather gradually through the common
forms to the granites, which compose the axis of the Wind River range,
which here constitutes the main crest of the Rocky Mountain chain.
The geological divide is crossed before reaching South Pass City, and
it is here comparatively low. The same gradations in the metamorphics
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMHNG. 147
are noticed beyond in reversed order until the overlying sedimentary
rocks make their appearance upon the northeastern slope. Quartz and
feldspathic seams are abundant upon both sides of the anticlinal. Heavy
drift-deposits fill many of the variously-eroded valleys, and excellent
Toads are built without difficulty on this account. South Pass City and
Atlantic City are located in deep valleys occupied by tributaries of the
Sweetwater, which were in part at least cut out during the Glacial
epoch, and afterward more or less completely filled with the finer drift-
deposits, probably to some extent during the Champlain epoch. The
Pliocene deposits extend to a remarkable distance over the metamorphic
series, being discovered where wells have been dug in places where
they are covered by the drift, as at Camp Stambaugh, which is almost
directly upon the divide between the Sweetwater River and Wind River,
SWTEETWATER GOLD-MINES.
Some opportunities of observation having occurred, the gold-mines
of this section, known as the Sweetwater mining country, were exam-
ined in company with Captain Jones, with as much care as time would
allow. It should be here stated that the writer is greatly indebted to
the proprietors of the mines now in operation, and particularly to Mr.
James Smith, of Atlantic City, for facilities given, in every case very
courteously rendered and without hesitation.
The gold of this region occurs in thick veins of impure quartz among
the schists and gneissic slates of the northeastern side of the anticlinal.
The greater portion is disseminated through the matrix, but it not un-
frequently is found in cavities in the quartz in fair-sized flakes or scales.
Silver is frequently associated with it, and iron-pyrites in varying
proportions is rarely absent. There are at least two prominent lodes,
which may be called the Cariso and the Miners' Delight. The
mining-section is locally divided into two portions, known as the Sho-
shone and the Miners' Delight districts. The Shoshone district, in par-
ticular, has been the scene of great excitement, and signs of compara-
tively recent prosperity are evident in the numerous fine dwellings,
hotels, factories, and other concomitants of mining-settlements, which
mark the sites of the now deserted Atlantic and South Pass cities. The
mines have not been exhausted, and some are yet in Operation; but so
far as could be learned, the entire lack of capital and the cost of trans-
portation of the ore to points where it can be worked, have caused their
gradual abandonment or suspension. The small number of remaining
inhabitants of the two cities—not more than thirty in all—are very
sanguine of ultimate success, and it is quite probable that a railroad
through this country would add the necessary incentive to the profita.
ble development of these mineral resources.
The notes upon these mines, active and abandoned, will be given in
order, beginning at South Pass City, in the Shoshone district. The
natural facilities for placer-mining are very good, and the channels of
former ditches are by no means uncommon. Some of these exist in
the neighborhood of South Pass City. Numerous “prospect-holes” are
to be seen in all directions.
Cariso mine.—Not now in operation. This mine has yielded Well, and
much labor has been spent in its working. Very good buildings, With
good but not extensive machinery, are still standing above the main
shaft. The shaft has been sunk two hundred and ten feet, in a tough,
dark quartzite with numerous thin, quartz veins. Marshall's shaft is
ninety feet in depth, and has a tunnel along the vein, toward the main
148 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WY OMING .
shaft, one hundred and sixty-five feet in length. The vein is here four or
five feet in thickness, Clipping 70° to the northeast, being conformable to
the adjacent rocks. Some free gold is found in the cap and wall rock, and
the shafts and tunnels have been excavated partly in these. A rich spe.
cimen from the hanging-Wall represents a reddish or Speckled, rather fria-
ble, quartzose layer, with the gold finely disseminated. This rock very
readily splits into thin laminæ upon exposure to the air, owing, doubt-
less, to the quantity of ferric oxide which it contains. The average of the
gangue is more refractory quartz or quartzite. Iron pyrites is more or
less abundant, occasionally being found in the form of cubes in the attle,
or refuse. Very little water was met before reaching a depth of two
hundred feet, but the reason given for suspension of the work is ina-
bility to supply pumping-machinery, which is now rendered necessary.
Young America mine.—Suspended or abandoned. Across a ravine,
easterly from the Cariso mine, the Young America shaft, ninety feet in
depth, has struck the same lode. Considerable silver is found in the
attle, but it has never been worked, though said to exist in sufficient
quantity if the more valuable gold were not present. This mine has not
yielded as well as the Cariso; the average being not more than $25 per
toll.
Irish man and Sheridan mine,—Not in operation at present. Two
mines, consolidated under this name, have a shaft ninety feet in depth.
The rock which was worked yielded fairly, but it is not extremely rich
in gold. In general, it is an impure, hard quartz, but much decomposed,
in parts containing pyrites.
There is apparently a “horse * in this mine, containing a considerable
Quantity of magnetite.
Below this mine a few rods, the Grecian Bend mine was opened, with
the hope of reaching the same lode, but was finally abandoned. Ten-
Inessee, Golden Gate, and Flora are the names of other mines, which
Were opened and prosecuted with comparatively little success, though
With fair prospects. The I3arnaby prospect-pit, farther eastward, was
sunk with a view of striking the lode on which the Duncan mine is
located.
Duncan mine.—Worked on a small scale in summer; James Smith, of
Atlantic City, proprietor. The approach to this mine, sixty-five feet in
length, is roughly timbered, and its continuation in a tunnel seventy-
five feet in length along the vein enters the hill about eighty feet below
the summit. The mean width of the tunnel is four and one-half feet,
with a large expansion or pocket, ten feet in width, near the inner end.
The height is about six ald one-half feet, and it slopes inward about
three feet. Above this tunnel, on the hill, a shaft twenty feet in depth
has been opened, with a tunnel at the bottom fifteen feet in length,
Striking along the same vein, and a “slope” to the surface eastward. A
Windlass Worked by hand constituted the motive-lyower. A layer occur-
ring near the middle of the vein contains an abundance of iron-pyrites
and ferric Oxide, mostly in small pockets. In large swellings or pock-
ets in the vein, there occurs a soft irony layer, much decomposed, very
rich in gold, most productive near the northern or hanging Wall. All-
other hard quartzy layer is rich, and is also abundant in pockets on the
side of the hanging-wall. Along the northern side of the Vein, more
prevalent eastward, runs a streak of quartz containing notable quan-
tities of a blue salt of (apparently) copper, probably some silver, and
much ferric oxide. An “arrastra’ has been in use at this mine, and it
is very favorably situated for obtaining a supply of water. The yield
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHIWW ESTERN W YOMIN G. 149
of gold is less than at the Cariso, but it will probably average $20 or
more to the ton if properly worked.
Jſary Allen mine.—Suspended. This mine is located one mile and a half
eastward from the Dulican, apparently striking the same lode, which
Seems to turn very slightly to the north in that direction. It was not
visited during our trips.
J3\tcheye mine.—Now being worked by McBurk, Lawn, and Dawkins.
The metamorphic rocks are here nearly vertical, but the vein appears
to have filled joint-fissures near the surface, Inaking the dip of the
lode at this point from 342 to 39° Southwest. They have apparently,
by sinking a shaft, also struck and worked another smaller vein or
branch below, with much the same direction, which does not come so
near to the surface. Along the upper vein, and penetrating in the same
Way the lower, a thin foreign seam occurs, with a fine example of “slick-
ensides,” where it comes in contact with the quartz vein. The upper
vein near the surface is about nine feet in thickness. At the lower end
of an incline, seventy-six feet from the entrance, it is about four feet in
width, but the gangue is richer. The gold-bearing rock from the bottom
of the shaft and on the side of the incline is a tough but broken quartz,
With some visible particles of gold.
Between this mine and Camp Stambaugh, the Caribou mine, not far
distant, and a few placer and other mines in Promise Gulch, were
hastily passed for lack of time to examine them.
Young America mine, (East End, JIiners' Delight.)—Now in operation.
The dip of the lower wall averages 722, S. 65° E. The shaft, which fol-
lows the vein, is one bundred and eight feet in depth ; first level, sixty
feet below the surface, the portion of the shaft above being on an incline.
The width of the vein varies from nothing to four feet. The lower wall
of the Workable portion is quite quartzy, and there is much adhering
quartz in many places on the hanging-wall. The average yield is about
$15 per ton, and the working is easy. The proprietors run a twenty-
stamp mill, and the hoisting-machinery and the timber-work are in good
order and substantial. At a depth of less than one hundred feet, the
shaft runs vertical for twelve feet, and then bears northward. In the
center or to one side of the vein, often in pockets, occurs a blackish
rock-material, which decomposes readily. At a depth of one hundred
and five feet, Water issues from the Wall in a good-sized strealm. The
gold is here often found in large scales in the quartz.
The Miners’ Delight district is now more thickly settled than the
Shoshone district, and more or less of an impulse has been given to this
Section by the success of those who have opened mines. Several other
prominent mines are worked, which could not be examined for want of
time. These few notes give but a bare outline of the facts; but the
report of Captain Jones will, doubtless, contain other items of information
connected with their economy. Mr. R. W. Raymond, United States
Mining Commissioner, has given these mines due attention, and he has
already published more complete accounts of them.
FIROM CAMIP St.AYIBAUGH TO CAMP BROWN, TIIENCE ACROSS THE
WIND TIVER WALLEY .
On the western slope of the Wind River Mountains, near South Pass,
no signs of strata older than the Tertiary were discovered ; but upon the
northeastern slope many fine sections were afforded, exposing represent-
atives of the great groups of the Western sedimentary rocks, from the
Silurian to the Cretaceous, inclusive. By comparing and elaborating
150 RECONN AISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING,
the materials collected from various points, it is ascertained that the
following formations are represented in ascending order, above the met-
amorphics: -
1. Potsdam Sandstone.
2. Quebec group limestone, &c.
3. Niagara limestone, (cherty and dolomitic.)
4. Carboniferous group.
5. Triassic red sandstones.
6. Jurassic limestones, &c.
7. Cretaceous beds.
S. Tertiary (miocene 2) beds.
9. Pliocene 3 clays and soft or loose arenaceous beds.
10. Drift-deposits of glacial epoch.
11. Champlain deposits.
12. Terrace-formations.
13. Recent accumulations of blown sand, &c.
The streams flow down from the mountains by a very direct course
to the plains through the Sedimentary strata, including the Cretaceous
and occasionally the Tertiary. A fold in these rocks is then met, which
turns the more Southern of the streams more or less to one side, sometimes
for a short distance in a direction opposite to the general course of the
Wind River. Several of these folds stretch along the Wind River pla-
teau, being variously eroded at different points.
There are several places between the Little Popo-Agie and Camp Brown
where the Triassic gypsum-beds are thus exposed in a manner which
makes them quite accessible, as well as the valuable building-stone, which
would otherwise have been kept concealed. Several extensive seams of
coal outcrop in the Cretaceous series, and a portion of it may hereafter
prove of economic value, though it is mostly of an inferior quality
so far as observed. Just beyond the Little Popo-Agie, and on the Little
Wind River below Camp Brown, oil-springs exist, which bid fair to be.
come of importance in the future. That near Camp Brown has already
furnished a quantity of asphaltum by its evaporation as it flows Over
the ground, and this has been extensively employed at the post for
pavement and roofing purposes. The Hot Spring, two miles below
Camp Brown, is a very interesting feature of this section, and cold Sul-
phur-springs are found in other localities. Camp Brown itself is located
in the midst of a rolling country, which has been much planed down
since the upheaval of the mountains, so that the geological structure is
much obscured by drift-accumulations.
The fresh-water Tertiary beds jut against the older deposits, almost
exactly as those of the Green River Basin overlie the red sandstones of
the Uintah Mountains, and like them they are nearly horizontal. They
form the surface rocks across the Wind River Valley to near the junction
of Spring and Dry Creeks, when they are replaced by the underlying
strata, which are much folded and eroded, making their study rather
difficult. Fine exposures of the Jurassic and Cretaceous beds are Seell
in the outlying ridges of the Owl Creek Mountains, with numerous fos-
sils in the former. A species of the Lamellibranch genus Gryphauſt is
remarkably abundant in some of the nearly vertical Jurassic limestones.
The Triassic brick-red sandstones are also exposed in places. The mill-
eral contents of all these formations are intensified, as it were, in quality
and in number of exposures by the excessive folding to which they have
been subjected.
RECONN AISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 151
OWL CREEK MOUNTAINS, SIERRA SEIOSHONE, ETC.
The metamorphic nucleus of the Owl Creek range is not well exposed,
being covered, except in a few isolated localities, by the early sediment-
ary rocks. Glacial action and the consequent deposits of bowlders and
finer material are abundantly manifested, but especially upon the north-
ern side and in the caſions or narrower valleys of the streams.
The country between Owl Creek and the Gray Bull River is very
rugged. Beds similar to those south of the Owl Creek Mountains con-
tinue. Lignite or coal, some probably valuable, iron-ore, and gypsum
are not scarce. The Tertiary beds are very scanty, and it is difficult to
determine their original distribution. Drift continues abundant, and
interesting studies in dynamical geology, including water-erosion, wind-
action, and other subjects, could hardly be more favorably presented than
in this section. Cretaceous strata are most common along our route,
but lower beds are occasionally seen.
From Gray Bull River to the Stinking water Valley, the surface is
less rugged, but it still shows great erosion. No new developments of
structure can be made out until the divide above Short Fork is reached,
When we are obliged to descend by a very steep trail to the tributaries
of the Stinking water. Here the volcanic conglomerate, which makes
up such a large portion of the mass of the Sierra Shoshone, is seen as
detached fragments scattered upon the hills, and to some distance upon
the plains. An examination of the main portion as it is exposed back
upon the higher ridges near Washakie's temporary camp, reveals large
quantities of silicified wood, sometimes in small pieces, but often as
large logs and trunks of trees. Passing beyond across Ish-a-Woë-a
River to the North Fork of the StinkingWater River, more outcrops
of coal are met, and a dying sulphur-spring. Near this point, a fair
section is afforded, including the Triassic beds.
As we pass up the North Fork, the volcanic rocks increase in quantity,
at first covering the sedimentary rocks, without obscuring them, but
shortly becoming so thick that the streams have not cut to their base,
thus continuing for many miles, completely concealing the structure of
the original range. In fact, little or nothing was learned of the under-
lying rocks, while passing through this cañon, except what was gleaned
from a very few exposures toward the lower end, with an occasional
outcrop of some of the later strata in most unexpected places. The
eruptive rocks extend westward over a vast extent of country far be-
yond the limits of our reconnaissance, and they constitute one of the
most interesting features of the geology of the West beyond the Rocky
Mountains. The caſion of North Fork has been cut to a depth of many
hundreds of feet in this material.
The Stinking water Pass is a narrow opening between two high points
on the divide between the North Fork and the Yellowstone Lake.
TIIE YELLOWSTONE PARK AND RETURN TO CAMIP BROWN.
The geologist who reaches the park from the east, by Way of the
Stinking water Pass, will soon find his attention drawn from the study
of the more ancient deposits to the consideration of the rare and too
little understood phenomena attendant upon the closing stages of Vol-
canic activity. Almost the Whole tract is covered with hot springs and
geysers in the greatest variety, and in many places the older stratified
deposits are not visible. The Pliocene lake-deposits are very Dromi-
ment, high above the present sheet of water, and they extend to a con-
152 RECONN AISSANCE OF NORTH. W. ESTERN \\ YOMING.
siderable distance northward, where their eonnection with the volcanic
outflow opens a field for careful investigation. At other points, partic-
ularly north Ward, the earlier sedimentary strata outcrop in some cases
as far back as the Siiurian and even to the metamorphic rocks. Follow-
ing down near the lake-shore to the river, and descending the latter for
fifty miles to the bridge, one has the advantage of meeting with the
facts in such order as to obtain an understanding of their significance in
the best manner possible in a limited time. Then making the trip to Gar-
diner's River, where the hot springs are at work upon the grandest scale,
he is better able to comprehend what he sees, and to apply the knowl-
edge thus gained to the future study of the geysers in another section,
It is unnecessary to dwell here upon any of these phenomena, which are
to be discussed by themselves, and which are of such special interest
that no general statement concerning them would be at all satisfactory.
We will, therefore, hastily review the country southward and eastward
to Camp Brown, the closing point of our labors.
South of Yellowstone Lake, although the volcanic rocks still continue,
there are numerous places in which the sedimentary strata are revealed
beneath them, or are uncovered by them. These occur mostly on the
banks of streams which are tributary to the Snake River. On Lava
Creek the granites are exposed, overlaid by a quartzose sandstone,
which is probably Potsdam, and this by limestones, which may be of the
ages of the Quebec group and the Niagara limestone. Cretaceous strata
are exposed before reaching Lava Creek on our route; also the coal-
bearing series on Buffalo Fork. The strata containing the coal are
nearly vertical and in folds, so that the beds are several times exposed
along the caſion within a stort distance. Much of this coal is very good,
and will, doubtless, some day be of value. Drift is very abundant in
some places between Two-Ocean Pass and Tógwote Pass. Near the
latter point, the eruptive rocks are largely denu(ied, if they ever covered
the lower strata, and the sedimentary rocks are finely cut through dia-
gonally by the Wind River, exposing numerous good sections. Before
reaching North Fork, this river has passed through the later formations,
and is then almost entirely walled by the Tertiary beds for the re-
mainder of its course. The drift-accumulations are very abundant, both
as bowlders and gravels and as modified drift. The details of its distri-
bution are in many respects very similar to the synchronous deposits of
the Green River Basin. It would seem that the Pliocene beds, if any
were formed in the Wind River Basin, were quite local in extent, but
the evidence of action during the Champlain epoch is much more con-
clusive. Well-formed terraces mark the courses of the streams here as
elsewhere, and recent surface-deposits are, perhaps, as well shown as
anywhere over our district.
ECONOMIC GEOLOGY.
It has not been the main purpose of the writer to collect statistical
information, nor to examine the country with special reference to its
capabilities for improvement, but such data have not been entirely
neglected, and the following summary of facts in this connection will
not be without soune interest to a large class of people.
The Sweetwater gold-mines have certainly not been worked to their
full capacity, and the introduction of capital and machinery consequent
upon the increase of railroad facilities, which must no doubt take place
at an early day, will probably add to their productiveness. In such an
event, parkets will be produced for the garden-truck which can be very
RECONN AISSANCE OF NORTH \, ESTERN WY OMING, 153
readily raised in many parts of the Wind River Valley, where the facil-
ities for irrigation are of the best. The deposits of coal and oil can
doubtless then be utilized; the inexhaustible store of building-material,
of Stone, and the abundant supply of timber will furnish ample accommo-
dations for the settlers, as it has already done at Atlantic City, South
Pass City, Miners' Delight, Camp Stambaugh, and Camp Brown. The
gypsum-deposits will be found valuable and easily obtainable, while at
no Very great distance iron-ore may be cheaply Worked. The main rail-
road through this country will probably be ou the regular route to the
National Park from the East, and distant markets could be supplied
with the products of this section. The Potsdam Sandstone, it is very
possible, is in some parts well calculated to be used in the manufacture
of glass, and a good quality of line can be produced from much of the
limestone.
Everything considered, the Wind Tiver Valley is the most favorable
locality for this development, but it can be extended across the Owl
Creek Mountains to the Shoshone plateau and beyond without difficulty.
The rich fuel-deposits along the line of the Union Pacific Railroad
will some day demand the introduction of au agricultural population to
furnish the food-supply. Very many localities are now very favorable
for grazing purposes, and the soil is, as a rule, very rich in the necessary
ingredients of plant-food. In most places irrigation is all that is needed
to turn the desert wastes into productive fields, as has been done in the
Salt Lake Basin, and on the Rio Virgin, by Mormons. The possibility
of irrigation is a deeper question, but it is certain that much can be
done in this direction even now, while the capabilities of the future will
very largely depend upon the measures which are adopted to husband
and distribute the water-supply. There are those, and the author is one,
who believe that the results to be obtained in this way will be almost
exactly commensurate with the time and money which may be spent in
diligently working out the problem of the influences of vegetation upon
atmospheric precipitation. This is not the place for argument upon
this subject, and this reference to it is all that can here be made.
Enough has been said, however, to show that the possibilities of
advancement are far greater than many have imagined, and it will be
found that these views are shared in common with the great majority
of observers in this region, who are competent to form an opinion from
the facts.
C EI A P T E R W I i.
DYNAMICAL GEOLOGY-ELEVATION, EROSION, AND DENUDATION.
Mountain Elevation—Erosion and Denudation—Glacial Action—Aqueous Action—
Peculiar Effects of Erosion —Wind Action.
In all the preceding chapters we have dealt mainly with results,
studying the history of each epoch from its completed works, and pay-
ing but little attention to the forces which have aided in their produc-
tion. In Chapter II, when reviewing the general surface-features of
the country, it was stated that there are many physical peculiarities
which are at first sight remarkable, and which must be, in a measure,
explained, before one can fully appreciate the great changes which have
taken place in this portion of the Rocky Mountain region since the
formation of the earliest strata. This portion of the report is, there-
154 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WWYOMING.
fore, devoted to a consideration of the causes of these changes, with a
more complete account than has previously been given of the direct
effects; that is to say, the indirect, or ultimate effects, will require little
notice, as they have already been discussed in the chapters on stra.
tigraphy. In other words, we are now to deal, in a general way, with
forces Which have been at Work more or less permanently, and we shall
endeavor to trace their action in the production of results, many of
which have been already considered. The subject will be topically dis-
cussed, somewhat systematically, but with scarcely any regard to local
or chronological sequence, except in the treatment of minor or special
topics. - - -
ELEV ATION OF MOUNTAINS.
It has been elsewhere remarked that the elevation of the Wahsatch
and Uintah ranges was accomplished before the chain of the Rocky
Mountains eastward had risen to any extent above the ocean. This
conclusion was reached by Clarence Ring, from the fact that the Cre-
taceous beds extend up to the eastern base of the Wahsatch chain, but
they are not found upon the Western slope. The relation of the Cre-
taceous strata to the underlying rocks in the neighborhood of the Wah-
satch and Uintah ranges also favors this belief. Previous to the deposi-
tion of the Paleozoic strata, an uplift of limited extent occurred in
Arizona, according to the published reports, and some statements have
been made in Chapter III of this report, which point toward the conclu-
sion that there may have been a slight elevation somewhere in the
neighborhood of South Pass during early Paleozoic times. This latter
supposition requires further evidence, however, for its support. The
Wahsatch and Uintah ranges, then, were uplifted toward the close of the
Jurassic period, with a broad area westward, the whole of which was
thrown into a series of parallel folds, with a general north-south trend.
The upheaval of the ranges composing the Rocky Mountain chain,
east of the Wah Satch range, took place at a later date. The disturbance
appears to have commenced during some portion of the Cretaceous
period, and to have continued gradually until its close. King also re-
ports a later uplift affecting Green River Tertiary beds in the neigh-
borhood of the Wahsatch Mountains. It is very difficult to determine
the complete orographic history of the northwestern portion of our
district, but the uplift of the whole region seems to have been com -
pleted before the opening of the Miocene epoch, although large addi-
tions have since been made to its height by the accumulation of ma-
terial poured out over its surface.
The Jurassic upheaval, as well as that of the Cretaceous period, was
accompanied by sufficient heat to transform or metamorphose a great
thickness of strata below the Potsdam sandstone, and almost to melt some
of the lower beds, if the granites be rightly considered a part of the met.
amorphic series. North and west of the Wind River Mountains, the heat
accompanying the later upheaval was So intense as to lead to outflows
of igneous material from fissures, upon a scale of such magnitude that
whole ranges were concealed and a new aspect was given to a vast extent
of territory. These ejections of molten matter continued with greater
or less force during the Miocene epoch, and probably through the Plio-
cene, or even later, gradually diminishing in quantity until the fissures
were covered by lines of volcanoes, from the craters of which the lava
poured down upon all sides at irregular intervals. The remnants of
many of the cones now stand as clustered peaks, to mark their former
positions. These volcanoes finally became extinct, and geysers, fuma.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 155
roles, and Solfataras, in almost inconceivable numbers, were left through
Succeeding ages to attest by the accumulation of enormous mineral de-
posits the persistency of the subterranean heat. Many of these still
remain, but they are slowly dying out, and it is evident that they rep-
rºsent the last stages of the volcanic action.
The development of the eruptive rocks is very great westward, and the
author would here express his obliga-
tions to those investigators whose
Writings have enabled him to obtain
additional evidence of the truth of sev-
eral Opinions which were formed in the
field, and largely confirmed by the study
Of notes and specimens. In the suc-
ceeding pages these views will be freely
expressed, together with the facts upon
Which they are based.
In the lower portion of the caſion of
the North Fork of Stinking Water River
there occurs a peculiar patch of Tertiary
rocks, lying Dearly horizontal upon each
side of an almost vertical dike of com-
pact andesite, in such a manner as to
leave no room for doubt that some of
the volcanic rocks were deposited prior
to the existence of the fresh-Water
Tertiary lake in which the horizontal
ls,
l
conglomerate, also occur near the junc-
tion of the Owl Creek Mountains and
the Sierra Shoshone, at a much higher
level than these.
Beyond this point the dikes are very
numerous, but usually rather narrow, at
le= beds were formed. These strată are
*#= composed of about 300 feet of clays and
==HE light-buff sandstones, very similar to the
Pliocene beds in the neighborhood of
South Pass. It was impossible to deter-
- .# 3 mine whether this basin was continuous
º *ś with an outside lake during the deposi-
Sº # ºf tion of these strata, but it appears to
§ #3 have been quite isolated, and not more
º S. #5 than a dozen square miles in area.
§ º Figure 14 illustrates the section referred
3 to. Similar Tertiary beds, with nearly
º, the same relation to the lower volcanic
:
*-
5
i
\
->
º
first cut through by the stream with a
; : general north-south trend parallel wise
H to the axes of the folds in the underly-
ing sedimentary rocks, then becoming
more abundant and irregular and crossing each other in almost every
direction. Figure 15 gives an outlineview of several dikes, as seen in a
cliff on the right bank of the Sream, a short distance below Camp 34.
The conglomerate frequently contains large masses of the sediment-
ary rocks, particularly those of Tertiary age, which are often baked so
hard as to give a peculiar metallic ring when struck With the hammer.
In these not unfrequently finely-preserved specimens of leaves of angio-


156 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWES TF RN WY OMING.
§
Sperms are found, almost indelibly impressed upon the rock, much after
the manner of the porcelain print. Logs, Stumps, and even trees silici-
fied are found in many places in large quantities.
The effects produced upon
the sedimentary beds by the
outpouring of the heated
volcanic material upon them
are very instructive. Hard
limestones have become fria-
ble, Sandstones have been
changed to the texture of
Quartzite, and beds of gyp-
sum have been very much
hardened where they have
not been converted com-
pletely into anhydrite. Some
beds of cherty limestone
have also been rendered
even more compact and
finely-jointed, and apparent-
ly some beds of sandy marl
have been locally trans-
formed into quite compact
but much-jointed rock.
As We pass up the caſion
of North Fork the conglom-
erates are interstratified
with and overlaid by thick
beds of trachytic material
varying in texture and in-
closing many minerals. The
whole series to the Stink-
ingwater Pass is of great
interest, but few lithological
details can herebe given.
Judging from all the facts
which have thus far been
gathered, we may read the
history of these deposits in
this region, including as
well their continuation be-
yond the limits of our recon-
^ naissance, briefly as follows:
\ During the Cretaceous pe-
riod there began a disturb-
ance in the strata east of the mountains which had been elevated at the
close of the Jurassic period, resulting in the upheaval of the Rocky Mount-
ain chain. This was gradual in its effects, and, whatever may have been
its cause, the trend of the new system was parallel wise to the axis of the
previously-formed chains; in some portions of its length the later system
is almost exactly parallel in trend with its predecessors. Over a large
part of the area now occupied by the Sierra Shoshone a considerable
range was probably elevated during the period of the Cretaceous up-
heaval. This is now so nearly obscured by the igneous deposits that
the evidence of its age is difficult to obtain, and it is at best very frag-
mentary. In some respects it resembles more closely the Jurassic than

RECONNAISSANCE OF N () RTHWESTERN WYOMING. 157
the Cretaceous mountain-chains, but wherever the Cretaceous beds are
exposed in the vicinity of its ridges they are invariably involved in the
folds; it must, therefore, be considered a portion of the Rocky Moun-
tain system. From a review of all the facts which bear upon this sub-
ject it is inferred that the nucleus of this concealed range is to be found
in a belt of granites and other metamorphic rocks extending northward
from Tógwote Pass, bearing about 192 to the west, and crossing the
East Fork of Yellowstone River just above its mouth. If this be the
case, the range formed a part of the north Ward continuation of the main
geological divide of the Rocky Mountains, or the prolongation of the
axis of the Wind River Mountains.
The early outflows of igneous material were accompanied by masses
of the stratified rocks, broken from the walls of the fissures no doubt in
many cases, but also, it is probable, entangled in the liquid stream from
the upturned edges of tilted beds, caught from cliffs, and in other ways
accumulated until thick beds of conglomerate had been deposited. As
a rule, the successive outflows are arranged in a stratified manner, and
the lower layers follow closely the inequalities of the pre-existing sur-
face, wherever the latter is exposed. The overlying layers, and especi-
ally the lavas, have gradually filled the depressions until the later
outflows have passed away from the fissures over a comparatively
even course. In some places large patches of stratified rock have
apparently been engulfed in the lava-flows without removal from their
position; and there may be seen in the left wall of the caſion of the
Yellowstone, not far above the mouth of Hell-Roaring River, and at
other points, the upright trunks of large trees, which may have grown
where they stand. None but the earlier outflows extended eastward to
the mouth of the North Fork of the Stinking Water River, or, if so, they
were removed from a broad area prior to the deposition of the provis-
ional Pliocene beds. No Sudden breaks are noticed, however, Westward
to the Stinking water Pass, but the change from fissure to crater erup.
tion seems to have been rather gradual.
It is possible that the eruptive rocks of the Jurassic upheaval extend
eastward beneath a portion of the district under consideration, but this
is rather doubtful. A limited outflow took place after the Cretaceous
period, and perhaps prior to the Miocene epoch, but the great lava-flows
probably occurred during the Miocene. Much more investigation is re-
quired before the details of this history can be made out with certainty, but
it is believed that the foregoing statements, though of necessity less com.
plete than the material collected warrants, are yet generally correct.
Prof. Joseph Leconte, of the University of California, has published, in
the numbers for March and April, 1874, of the American Journal of
Science and Arts, two admirable articles upon the subject of the lava-
floods, with whose conclusions in the main the present author heartily
concurs—the chief differences in the facts being due almost entirely to
local causes, independently of age. It would be a pleasant task to follow
this subject to the end, but the peculiar difficulties under which this
report is prepared forbid further discussion, and it is very reluctantly
dropped at this point.
The Owl Creek range is a kind of spur or shoot from the angle formed
by the bending eastward of the main axis of the Cretaceous upheaval, and,
with the many folds of similar date, doubtless served as the mechanical
expression of much of the elevating force which would otherwise have
been converted into leat for the melting of the rocks.
15S RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOM ING.
ANCIENT EROSION AND DENU DATION.
Perhaps the greatest difficulty in the way of generalizing correctly
upon the results of field-work is that of determining accurately even
the main surface features of the country at any given period in the
past. It is rare, indeed, that one will find each successive step in the
history so clearly and unmistakably revealed that it may be read with
ease in a hasty passage through a complicated district. There can be
Ino doubt that erosion has been as active in past times as at pres.
ent under like conditions. We must, therefore, believe that each suc-
ceeding formation has been built up from the Waste of those which have
preceded it, wherever the latter have been exposed to disintegrating
influences. The evidences of excessive denudation of Some portion of
the earth's surface during the Paleozoic era are abundant, but there is
no proof of the existence of extensive tracts of land high above the sea-
level, in Western Wyoming, until the period of the Jurassic upheaval.
The elevation of the Wahsatch and Uintah ranges, with the accom-
panying Sierra Nevada chain, then furnished ample material for the
accumulation of the arenaceous and other deposits of the Cretaceous
seas, and the succeeding estuaries and fresh-water lakes. Subsequently
the uplifting of the Rocky Mountain chain added largely to the super-
aqueous surface, and, notwithstanding the conservative effects of the
luxuriant vegetation during much of the Tertiary period, the country
was denuded to an extent sufficient to produce at least three thousand
feet of lake-sediment over a very wide area. It is safe to conclude that
the average height of the mountains in this section was reduced by de-
nudation fully one thousand feet during the Tertiary period alone, and
if we add to this the accumulation at their base of more than three
thousand feet in thickness, we shall bave a reduction in altitude, from
base to summit, of four thousand feet since the Cretaceous upheaval,
without taking into account the denudation during the Glacial epoch.
There are good reasons for believing that this estimate is much too small,
for the Eocene beds of the Green River Basin present a thickness of cer-
tainly four thousand feet. Two thousand feet of beds which are prob-
ably Miocene occur in the Wind River Valley, and the Pliocene beds
near South Pass are fully one thousand feet in thickness. It is almost
impossible to decide how much of the material deposited in the Green
River Basin was worn from either mountain system, but some clew to the
proportionate amount furnished by the Wind River Mountains may be
obtained by an examination of the physical features of that range.
During the Eocene epoch there seems to have been a comparatively free
passage for the waters upon the northeastern slope; and, although the
erosion may have been as great as at a later period, very little of the
material was deposited until it had passed some distance from the mount-
ains. Upon the western slope a great lake existed during this epoch,
and whatever fine material was carried down by the streams was de-
posited in the Green River Basin. In the Miocene epoch these condi-
tions were almost reversed as far as the opposite sides of the range Were
concerned, and during the Pliocene epoch both shared in the deposition
to some extent. Judging from the present aspect, and taking into Coll-
sideration the effects of the glacial action, it seems very probable that
the Wind River Mountains have always been characterized by greater
erosion upon the northeastern slope, though it must be acknowledged
that less is known of the southwestern flank.
In the Owl Creek range and the Sierra Shoshone almost nothing Can
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTN WESTERN WYOMING. 159
be learned of the early denudation, but in both of these the drainage
appears to have been mainly northward and eastward, as at present,
though not in all cases through the same channels.
GLACIAL ACTION.
To One accustomed to the heavy drift-deposits of the East, often bear-
ing evidence of transport for many miles, the local nature of the
Western accumulations, in view of the excessive erosion which has been
produced in certain sections, is somewhat bewildering. It is unneces-
Sary to repeat here the facts and explanations which have been offered
in Chapter V, but an attempt will be made to give a more satisfactory
review of some topics which were there too briefly considered.
It has been remarked that the general course of the glacier move-
ment was southeastward, varying more or less according to the resist-
ance encountered, and spreading out, in Some cases, nearly at right
angles from the sides. In the Wind River range the main glacier fol-
lowed a course apparently not strictly parallel with the axis, but trend-
ing slightly more toward the east, so that the erosion was usually much
greater upon the northeastern slope. From the top of the Chimney Rocks,
in the axis of the range, the whole country northward and eastward can
be taken in at a glance, but the view in the opposite direction is ex-
tremely limited, being almost entirely confined to the exposures of the
metamorphic series.
There are many remarkable features in the erosion of channels which,
from their form and the partial filling in of undoubted drift-deposits,
no one would hesitate to refer to the Glacial epoch, but which it taxes
the mind to trace to their special causes. The absence of grooves
or striae from sections in which the volcanic products are almost universal
may be accounted for by the rapid weathering; but it is more diffi-
cult to understand why they should not be found in the harder and
more durable metamorphic rocks. The only instance during our trip in
which I was able to detect anything approaching to the nature of a
glacial mark, was in the case of a very limited outcrop of a dolomitic
limestone above the Niagara, which had upon its surface two or three
faint scratches, which may have been quite recent.
In the valley of the East Fork of the Yellowstone, and on Lava
Creek, a quantity of very large granitic bowlders are strewn over the
surfaces of the higher terraces, and similar masses of granite occur
isolated and in moraines, in the central portion of the Wind River
range. In the latter, outside of the nucleus, large masses of the strat-
ified rocks are occasionally seen standing by themselves, but usually in
such positions as to indicate transportation very gradually, and for
short distances only. The bowlders becoming smaller extend out into
the plains, and some of them are composed of the material of the
sedimentary rocks, Sometimes containing fossils. -
The general course of the glaciers over the igneous district was not
very different, and all the observed peculiarities of the drift in this
region are traceable rather to the outlines of the surface and the texture
of the rocks than to any important difference in the glaciers from those
farther south. In the upper valley of the main fork of Owl Creek
there are extensive accumulations of bowlders running down from the
east in low ridges, similar to those noticed in the Wind River Val-
ley. The erosion was rather uneven, and the southern-bound glacier
seems to have met an insurmountable obstacle in the Owl Creek range,
and to have been deflected from its course ; or, perhaps, the erosion
160 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN W YOMING,
was effected by separate glaciers existing at different times, and possi-
bly pursuing different courses. At any rate, there is abundant evi-
dence, also, of the final deposition of volcanic-drift material at the base of
the mountains, between the upper and lower caſions of Owl Creek, far
to the eastward. Mere glimpses were obtained of the Wonderful his.
tory which is yet to be unraveled in this region, but enough was
learned to show that these deposits and their channels are but the
subordinate parts of one system, in unison with similar accumulations
in other portions of the district.
Between Pacific Creek and Lava Creek, and in the valleys of Lava
Creek, Buffalo Fork, and Rock Creek a large portion of the drift is very
finely comminuted, and this is often the case elsewhere in the volcanic
district, especially where the lavas prevail. Many of the metamorphic
bowlders may have come from the volcanic conglomerates. Much modi-
fied drift, probably of the Champlain epoch, occurs in the valleys of
Buffalo Fork, Rock Creek, and in other places, of which the later ter.
races have been formed. In these cases, and perhaps in many others,
there is evidence that a part, at least, of the Valley was cut out by a
glacier, and the same may be said of portions of the valleys of the
majority of the streams in the Uintah and the Wind River ranges, as
well. As before remarked, however, it is almost certain that the narrower
caſions of many of the streams have been for the most part, or entirely,
cut by running water, partly or wholly since the Glacial epoch. In
some places the streams have plainly turned from their original courses
to cut deep caſions through solid rock ; at other points these caſions,
though narrow, bear unmistakable evidence in the shape of drift-deposits
that they were partly cut as early as the close of the Glacial epoch,
while some even appear to have been in progress during the Tertiary
period. 's
From the facts that have been given in this and a previous chapter,
it cannot be doubted that, whether the Imovement were rapid and
evanescent, or very slow and longer continued, the element of power
was present, though it seems to have become concentrated in its effects,
causing extensive erosion with little transportation, comparatively.
RECENT EROSION.
In discussing the causes of the erosion and denudation which have
taken place since the close of the Post-Tertiary period, it is often
impossible to separate that part of the effects which properly belongs
to the Champlain or Terrace epoch, nor is this necessary for our present
purpose. The term recent at the head of this division will, consequently,
be used to desiguate all that time which has elapsed since the period of
the drift. .
A QUEOUS ACTION.
Since the laying down of the fresh-water Tertiary strata they have
been denuded to a degree almost incredible to one who has never vis-
ited the region in which they occur. The Green Tiver Basin in particular
has been subjected to this process, lying as it does almost completely
hemmed in by the mountains. The Bridger beds originally covered
the Green River formation over the greater part of the basin With at
least one thousand feet of clays and Sandstones, but now the lower
group is laid bare to a remarkable extent by the complete wearing
away of the superincumbent strata. The position of the drift-deposits,
at least in the southern portion of this tract, indicates that much of the
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 161
denudation had been accomplished prior to the close of the Post-Tertiary
period, and it is probable that local glacial action had much to do with
the early erosion, though I have had no opportunities of observation of
Such effects, except in the vicinity of the Uintab Mountains and near
South Pass, in both of which cases there is no doubt that extensive
denudation was accomplished during the Glacial epoch. Of the great
effects which have since been produced, the largest part must undoubt-
edly be attributed to the action of running water during the Terrace
epoch, in comparison with which the amount is very small which has
taken place in modern times. Nevertheless it must not be thought
that the erosion now in progress is by any means of trifling importance.
On the contrary, it would be a simple matter to bring forward abundant
evidence to prove that the amount of the material which is annually
removed by the streams is excessive when compared with ordinary
standards. There are many causes of this, a few of the more important
of which may here be mentioned.
1. The great altitude of the region.—Two prominent results accrue from
this cause, viz, the accumulation of snow in the mountainous districts,
and an increased force to the currents of the streams arising from the
greater slope of the surface.
The accumulation of the greater portion of the atmospheric precipi-
tation during a long winter causes powerful freshets in the late spring,
which produce greafer effects upon the surface than would be accom-
plished by the same amount of Water passing off gradually. The
mountain-slopes give free scope to the action of gravity, and the streams.
strike the plains with a force sufficient to carve out deep channels in:
the soft strata, and to remove large quantities of the finer material, as:
sediment, to great distances.
2. The alternate melting and freezing of the snow by day and might.—In
this section of the country during the months of late spring and sum-
mer there is usually much difference in the temperature of the days and
nights. The snow in the mountains thus melts by day and freezes by
night, causing alternations in the level of the streams of considerable
magnitude. In some instances these changes are so regular for days at
a time as to closely simulate the ebb and flow of the tide in rivers com-
municating with the sea, except in the length of the intervals. The
frequent importance of very slight differences of this nature, dynami-
cally considered, will be readily acknowledged.
3. The character of the rocks.-This influences not only the amount.
but also the character of the erosion. Accordingly we find that the
Bridger beds, where they have not been entirely removed by the long-
continued action of the streams, are left standing for the most part as .
isolated hillocks, though these vary greatly in size and frequency. The
harder Green River beds are usually more regularly and perpendicu-
larly worn. Between the extremes nearly every possible form may be.
met, according to position, and other circumstances which are generally
not difficult to understand. To this cause must be mainly attributed:
the irregularity in the results which have been produced, for the aque-
ous eroding agencies, though not constant in their intensity, have prae-
tically always held about the same relations to each other as at present.
These and other agents acting in concert are steadily degrading the
surface by undermining the cliffs, Washing out the alluvial deposits from
the old stream-beds, and transporting the finer material to points be-
low. One who has only seen these stream-beds in the late summer or
early fall, when they are traversed by mere wiry rivulets, can form no
adequate idea of the powerful river-torrents which fill and often over-
|H. EX. 2S5 11
162 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
flow their banks for several weeks early in the season, so thoroughly
charged with sediment as to appear more like mud than water.
The foregoing remarks will apply almost equally as well to the Wind
River Valley and to other portions of the Rocky Mountain region where
the conditions are similar, but there are usually minor differences, de-
pendent upon a variety of circumstances which are more or less special
in occurrence. The sandstones are at the surface over a large portion
of the Wind River plateau, which has caused the erosion to result in
Valleys and gorges similar to those which have been cut through the
beds of the Green River group. In some cases peculiar buttes of small
size remain, and Crow Heart Butte and another similar to it, in the main
valley of Wind River, are in some respects like the more regular ones
of the Bridger group. There are also “bad lands,” exposures of the
indurated green and red marls of the Wind River Tertiary, near the
mountains and in the upper valley where the upper sandstones have been
Worn away, having a peculiarly rugged aspect. These may very appro-
priately be named the Gothic Buttes. The peculiar mixed structure of
Some of the sandstone-conglomerates of this formation has given rise
to many curious and remarkable forms resembling familiar objects, as
urns, pillars, altars, &c., and many of the Grizzly Buttes near the Uin-
tah Mountains are capped by masses even more strikingly similar in
outline to other less regular objects. In the volcanic rocks the chasms
are lined with caverns, pillars, towers, and steeples, often hundreds of
feet in height. In some cases narrow fissures have been produced by
water-action through lavas and conglomerates thousands of feet in
depth, so that, in numerous places, the whole formation now has an
extremely rugged, turreted, and castellated appearance. It seems
remarkable that many of these thin chimney-columns can remain in
position. In the caſion of North Fork of the Stinking Water, in one
locality, there is a vertical block of volcanic material less than fifty feet
in length, two feet in breadth, and five hundred feet in height, standing
alone at a distance of three or four feet from the north wall of the
caſion, and this is but one of many similar instances which might be
given. Hundreds upon hundreds of lofty pinnacles, deep-worn caverns,
and fathomless crevices attest the resistless power of apparently insig-
nificant forces with unlimited time in which to work; they stand as
mute witnesses of the almost inconceivable length of the era which has
elapsed since the comparatively modern igneous ejections; and they
add one more to the long list of proofs of the immensity of geologic time.
Sections taken at intervals across the valleys of the streams would
show that the erosion, ancient and modern, has been very unequal at
different points, and it may seem rather peculiar that this statement is
nowhere more applicable than in the volcanic district. This is no doubt
largely owing to the local nature of the glacial action, but it must be
partly attributed to the character of the rocks and partly to other exist-
ing causes. In the lower part of the caſion of North Fork, hard dikes
of trachyte are abundant, many of which are almost vertical. These
rarely cross the path of the stream at a right angle to it; but, in most
cases, being tougher than the adjacent rocks, they now jut above them,
and in a line making a more or less acute angle with the stream. This
causes much of the detritus from above to accumulate behind the high
walls thus formed, affording lodgment for trees and other vegetation,
and allowing of the growth of thickets of symmetrical pines on slopes
so steep that there would otherwise be frequent land-slides. This is
well shown by the comparative absence of growing timber from lesser
slopes which are not thus protected.
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RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 163
Some of the most remarkable and interesting effects of water-erosion
are to be seen in the Yellowstone Valley, where the gradual draining of
the very large ancient lake has caused the formation of a river-channel
of very great depth. The Great Falls, at a distance of fifteen miles
below the lake, are a complete study of themselves. (See Fig. 16.) For a
number of miles above the rapids the river runs through a broad, level,
grassy bottom, made up of sandy lake-deposits and of gravelly deposits
of the stream before the period of its present level. Here it pursues a
very tortuous course, but the current is visibly rapid, although the water
is too deep for fording, except in a few places. Below the mouth of
Sour Creek the sandstones and fine beach-conglomerates, largely com-
posed of volcanic material, are cut through by the stream, which
is thus narrowed at first, and then turned slightly eastward. It next
Strikes against ridges or masses of purplish trachyte-porphyry, contain-
ing crystals of sanidine. This is made up of alternations of fairly
compact and slaggy portions, the latter containing reddish-brown
botryoidal geodes and spherulites. Much of the material is very
nearly pearl-stone, between which and the trachyte-porphyry there is an
almost insensible gradation. The resistance offered to the current by
the hard face of the trachytic-porphyry creates a counter-current, which
causes a bay-like expansion of the river, in which the Water appears
almost stagnant. No notice is given of the coming turmoil save the
muffled roar from the rapids below. But the rock also feels the shock and
it is finally cut through, this action being facilitated by the jointage of the
rock. The stream now pursues a general course along one of the lines of
jointing, trending north 4° west. It then meets the perlitic trachyte-por-
phyry, which, being thinly bedded and more loosely arranged, yields
more readily to the eroding forces, making swells at the sides and trans-
verse troughs or gullies in the bed of the stream, the action upon the
sides being increased by the formation of eddies produced by the strik-
ing of the main current against another portion of the tougher or non-
perlitic rocks. Here the rapids begin, but they are not yet very bois-
terous. At each ridge of the more massive material more or less of an
eddy is formed by the resistance of the rock, which causes currents to
rush in from the sides to join the main current in the center, thus throw-
ing the eroding force by degrees toward one point, concentrating it, and
enabling the stream to force its way through the remainder of the sec-
tion in a straight and narrow gorge. The rapids or cascades are largely
due to the irregular erosion along the bottom, as Will be seen by exam-
ining its general outline represented in Figure 17.
The terraces bordering the river at this point show the same features,
but they are much more regular at a distance from the stream, as they
have there been cut through the soft sandstones which overlie the por-
phyry. Upon the right bank, at the gorge, there are low spots or basin-
shaped holes which, before viewing the rapids, were almost inexplicable,
but were made clear When considered as the positions of eddies in the
former stream. A mass of the harder rock also marks the place of a
small islet in the stream at a higher level, which then stood in the midst
of the rapids.
Figure 18 gives the existing contour of the surface at this point. A
similar sketch would, doubtless, properly represent the transverse out-
line of the present bed of the stream at the lower rapids in the midst of
which now stand the islets shown at II, Figure 16.
Below the gorge the river Widens, owing mainly to the absence of
hard beds in one spot on the left bank, which may have once been at
the mouth of a tributary stream. It continues its course, alternately
164 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
cutting into the right and left bank, according to the nature of the
rock. The stream below the rapids, at the last rock islet, is thrown
mostly into a deep hole near the right bank; then meeting hard rock, it
is thrown across to the left bank against hard rock, which forces it to
pass through another gorge by the formation of a powerful eddy.
Through this the Water rushes with remarkable force in a short series
of rapids or cascades, then suddenly plunges by a sheer fall of 150 feet
down into a large amphitheater in which the Water spreads out shal-
lowly, flowing over a comparatively smooth bottom With little current.
The cause of the falls is the rather sudden change in the character of
the rock to a fine-jointed argillo-trachyte-porphyry, which gives way
lmore readily to the action of the water than the more massive rock
above.
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RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 165
sistance, so that it is deflected very greatly from its course and narrowed
at the same time. Just at the Verge of the lower falls it is quite sud-
denly constricted by the protrusion of a hard ledge from the left wall
of the gorge, which causes it to leap with redoubled energy over the
Steep but irregular precipice, (nearly 330 feet) which was undoubtedly
Caused by the passage to the softer conglomerates which here underlie
the porphyries.
Numerous other intensely interesting studies of this character are
aVailable to the investigator in this wonderful region, but this one
example must serve as the type of the class, and it will convey some idea
of the enormous results of the long-continued action of running water,
While it will also serve as another reminder of the great length of time
Which has elapsed since the geologically modern igneous products were
deposited in this section. It must not be supposed that the transitions
from one kind of rock-material to another are as abrupt in all cases as
might, perhaps, be inferred from the foregoing description. On the
Contrary there are many varieties in the volcanic rocks alone. Between
the rapids and a point in the Grand Cañon a few rods below the foot of
the lower falls, I collected not less than twenty forms, exclusive of the
Sandstones and conglomerates, sufficiently distinct to merit special
description. These include, besides those already mentioned, obsidian,
obsidian-porphyry, various spring deposits, and other varieties which
Cannot be noticed here. These affect more or less the results of the
erosion, but usually only in minor degree.
PECULIAR EFFECTS OF AQUEOUS IEROSION.
From what has already been said of the present surface features of
much of the country, it will not be matter of surprise to learn that there
are many peculiarities in the manner of distribution of the atmospheric
precipitation, and in other directions, which seem quite remarkable
When portrayed upon any but the most minutely accurate maps con-
structed upon a very large scale, and even then they can be only
imperfectly understood without at least a general knowledge of the
geological structure. An examination of Captain Jones's admirable
map will show the force of these remarks. One of the most striking
features in the topography of the district is the interlocking or overlap-
ping of the headwaters of many of the rivers, particularly in the portion
occupied by the volcanic rocks. The continental watershed (see Figure 19)
is now very irregular in trend north of South Pass, there being several
instances in Which the Atlantic Waters rise far to the westward of the
geological divide, and the Pacific streams vice versa. This result may
be traced to two main causes, each of which has taken effect since the
upheaval of Cretaceous date, i. e., erosion or denudation and dep-
osition. In some cases one of these causes has apparently operated to
a much greater extent than the other. In the Reighborhood of South
Pass, it would seem that the deposition of the Pliocene beds has influ-
enced the course of the headwaters of the Sweetwater River more than
the previous extensive erosion, but it is an open question how much of
the transfer of the precipitation from the Western to the eastern slope
through these channels is due to the subsequent glacial erosion. It is
quite certain, however, that the latter has exerted a powerful influence,
from the fact that the Watershed at this place in most points is directly
upon the Pliocene beds, which have been glacially eroded between the
water-divide and the geological divide, or axis of the range, forming a
trough in which the SweetWater now lies, in part at least.
166 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
In the ancient volcanic district it is highly probable that deposition
has had the greater share in the marking out of the present stream-
channels, though, as we have seen, these have been much enlarged and
otherwise modified by the glacial action. The Yellowstone Lake Basin
has undoubtedly been partly formed by erosion; but, as remarked by
Doctor Hayden, the deposition of the igneous rocks around it has had
much to do With its formation.*
FIG. 20.-Example of acute junction of streams.
The occurrence of low divides in this portion of the Rocky Mountain
region is somewhat characteristic. The slight elevation of portions of
the water-shed at South Pass may be inferred from the fact that several
of our party passed some rods beyond the divide before observing it,
although they were at the time specially engaged in its determination.
The divide at the Two-Ocean Pass, as the name indicates, is so nearly
level that the single mountain-torrent which feeds the divergent streams
is passed northward and southward with little disturbance, and an ordi-
nary observer might - pass from the Pacific to the Atlantic waters, or
'wice versa, without noticing for a time the difference in the direction of
the currents. South of Yellowstone Lake the divide is often quite low,
being, in places, scarcely three hundred feet above the lake-level, though
some miles distant. Other examples have also been given in the course
* Doctor Hayden, in several places in his reports, has spoken of this basin as largely
one of elevation. This term is liable to cause misapprehension, for certainly he cannot
intend to express the opinion that the basin has been formed partly by its own eleva-
tion, but rather by the elevation of its boundaries by deposition. I shall therefore use
the less objectionable phrase, basin of circum-deposition, which may be conveniently
employed to designate such basins or valleys as have been more or less caused by the
deposition of beds about them as an inclosing wall or walls.

RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 167
of this report. In nearly all such cases these effects may readily be
traced to the deposition of nearly horizontal beds in such a manner as
to cover pre-existing ridges without materially affecting the general
course of the drainage. This, at least, will explain the general results;
but modifications of greater or less extent have arisen from subsequent
erosion in special cases.
Among the many interesting features of this region one or two other
peculiarities of the aqueous erosion
must suffice for the present. The
courses of conjoining streams near
their junction are not unfrequently
gradually convergent, so that they
unite acutely, although often widely
divergent in their general courses. As
a type may be taken the case of Hell-
Roaring River, entering the Yellow-
stone six miles below the bridge. Fig-
ure 20 represents this feature fairly.
Slough Creek, the last tributary of the
East Fork of the Yellow cone, is an-
other good example, as are also some
of the Stinking Water tributaries and
other streams, found, as a rule, in the
volcanic district, this result being
doubtless due to the nature of the
crok in a large measure.
At A, Figure 20, there is a curious
cutting, the place of a former channel
of the Yellowstone, which is separated
by a very thin ledge from the present
cañon. This ledge is so frail that it is
difficult to understand how it could
have remained, even had it been but
an islet in the middle of the earlier
stream. A section across both the
Yellowstone and Hell-Roaring Rivers
_^
~
wº
#
—
300 feet
IT
|
;
ſ
§ s s is shown in Figure 21, including this
| | 3: 2: S thin Wall.
ſº s § $
* g Q- ~!
§§ S WIND ACTION.
S. §
s
Like the circulation of the water
upon the land, the atmospheric move-
ments are also controlled by the topo-
graphy of the country to a very great
extent, and it will not be surprising
to find that the results of such action,
in a district composed of Compara-
tively level plains, bounded by high walls upon one or more sides, have
a certain uniformity about them which could not be expected in more
open tracts.
The Green River Basin is, practically, a plain, hemmed in upon all
sides but the east by snow-clad mountain-ridges, while the open side
communicates with a wide expanse of prairie-surface. During the Sum-
mer the heated air rises from the plains, causing a current Which is kept
up by the continued supply of colder air from the mountains. The

168 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
direction of the wind, or of the surface-currents, will thus depend partly
upon the position of the outlet, but even more upon the location of the
surrounding mountain-walls. The prominent features, as exhibited in
WYOMING MTs
-------
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*
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SS \
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Y.
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—ūRTAH Mountains
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Fig. 22.-Showing cause and effect of wind action in the Green River Basin, Wyo
mi ng Territory.
the Green River Basin, are illustrated in Figure 22 and Figure 23
gives an outline view of the main facts as they occur in a portion of the
Wind River Valley. The arrow points in both indicate the courses of the
prevailing atmospheric currents. The power of the wind is plainly shown
in the Green River Basin by the peculiar position of those composite
plants which are collectively known as “sage-brush” and “grease-wood”
in this section, and by the scooping out of the road-bed in Some places
to a depth of 3 or 4 feet. These plants, in spots which are well exposed
to the wind, now stand upon isolated mounds or Small hills, not unlike
the potato plants in a well-tilled field, except that the hills are often
three or four times the height of a potato hill. In the Section marked
“Sand Hills,” in Figure 22, there is now a very large barren tract extend-


RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 169
ing for miles to the eastward, said to be the abode of innumerable rattle-
snakes, but it is entirely destitute of vegetation. When viewed in the
reflected light from the sun it closely resembles an immense tract of
drifted snow; and if a strong wind be blowing at the same time, as is
almost always the case, one could readily mistake the clouds of Sand
for a driving snow-storm.
FIG. 23,-Showing cause and effect of wind action in a portion of the Wind River
Plateau.
In the Wind River Valley, in the region indicated by the lettering in
Figure 23, similar formations exist; but one or two special features de-
serve notice here. Dunes, or sand-hillocks, of considerable size may be
seen in places, usually in hollows or along the edges of low cliffs which
serve to break the force of the wind and cause the sand to be there
deposited. Figure 24 represents the structure of the sand-drifts when
only herbaceous vegetation is present. Here the prevailing winds are
from the west, or nearly so, and the slope of the hillocks is much less
upon that side. As a rule they are less regular than here represented,
owing to the growth of clumps of grass upon many of the summits,
which finally changes the hillocks into tufty hummocks.
Some peculiar forms of soft sandstone, already referred to as results
of aqueous erosion, have no doubt received their finishing touches by
the direct influence of the wind or by the abrading action of wind-blown
sand. Many of the pinnacles and other irregular masses of rock which
cap the conical and pyramidal buttes of the Bridger group in the Green
River Basin, as well as the grotesque forms found elsewhere, were prob-
ably shaped in part by this force. *~.
Lastly, the action of the winds in the felling of timber in large quan-
tities has produced results the importance of which can scarcely be

170 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
estimated. To say nothing of the ultimate effects which may be sup-
'º' posed to follow from the decay of the vegetable tissue and the
possible or probable accumulation of peat, coal, or other mate-
rial, there can be no question that the present features of a
Vast expanse of country in the West are due, in a measure, to
the influence of these Wind-falls upon the circulation of the
water in the streams. The snow which becomes lodged in the
intricate masses of logs resists the thawing power of the sun’s
rays for a longer time, and it is also often prevented from slid-
ing down declivities with force. Streams are not seldom
dammed or otherwise obstructed, retarding their progress for
a time, only to renew their courses with increased power when
the resulting lake overflows the barrier. Swamps are formed in
other places, allowing of the growth of denser and more luxuri-
ant vegetation, and the consequent increase of humus by decay.
In these and in numerous other Ways these all but impene-
trable stretches of fallen timber are playing their part in the
dynamics of the country, but chiefly by retarding the passage
of the atmospheric precipitation from the mountainous districts,
and providing for its more equable distribution throughout the
year.
C H A PTE R V III.
DYNAMICAL GEOILOGY-CONTINUED.
Biological and chemical action—Effects of plant and animal life—Weath-
ering of rocks—Chemical changes and products—“Alkali” deposits–Con-
clusion.
The geological action of plant and animal life, directly and
indirectly, is, perhaps, too frequently overlooked in estimating
the effects of the various forces engaged in the formation, de-
struction, and conservation of deposits, although it must be
acknowledged that results of importance are often produced
by these agents in their growth and decay. There are many
questions of the greatest economic interest as yet unsettled
which can only be finally solved by the accumulation of facts
bearing upon this and kindred subjects. As a single example
may be mentioned the opinion now quite commonly, but prob-
ably erroneously, held that forests exert an attractive influenec
upon the moisture contained in the clouds, but there are other subjects
concerning which even less is known, which are more or less connected
with the dynamical action of life.
In view of all this, a portion of the present chapter is devoted to a
consideration of some of the important effects visible in Western Wyo-
ming, which have been accomplished through the agency of living
forms.
EFFECTS OF PLANT LIFE.
The geological results of the growth and decomposition of the mem-
bers of the vegetable kingdom may be conveniently divided into three
classes, viz.: 1. Protective or conservative; 2. Formative, or reproduct-
ive ; 3. Destructive.

RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 171
I.—CONSERVATIVE ACTION.
In cases in which two or more forces are simultaneously at work in
nature, it is often not easy to determine accurately the results which
should properly be accredited to each, and even when certain of these
agencies are antagonistic, the difficulty is not always decreased. Thus,
'...';', the sand-hills southeast of South Pass, men-
tioned in the preceding chapter, (see Figure
22,) were there formed because of the absence
of vegetation from that tract, but the lack of
vegetation is, doubtless, caused by the power
of the wind which has drifted the sand. The
protective or conservative effects of plant-
life, in the shape of the hardy “sage,” and
“grease-wood,” are well shown in the hillocky
region to the Westward. So, also, in the sand-
drift region of the Wind River Valley, before
mentioned, (Chap. VII, Figures 23 and 24,)
the growth of grasses upon some of the small
hillocks has produced similar but less regular
features upon a reduced scale. Figure 25
represents a section across the old emigrant-
road and overland stage-route, at a point
where its course lies in the direction of the
prevailing winds. It will be seen that the
sand has been blown out of the track, (which
has been much worn by use,) to a depth of
several feet, while the plants have protected
the greater portion of the district, partly by
their roots and partly by the resistance offered
by their trunks to the wind.
The influence of turf in preserving the
surface of the land is well shown in por-
tions of the Yellowstone Basin. A small
stream which flows into Pelican Creek a mile
and a half above the crossing of our trail
illustrates this in a peculiar and remarkable
manner. The amount of Water which passes
through the channel is not very small, but
the matted turf layer of considerable thick-
ness has held the stream within narrow
bounds, thus preventing great lateral spread
at the surface. Were the supply of Water
uniform at all times the undermining of the
banks which is continually taking place
* might prove more destructive, but the differ-
- §§§ ence in the amounts furnished during the
spring and the summer is so great that the channel is overflowed in the
flood seasons, resulting in the production of shallow ponds. Occasionally
masses of the overhanging turf (see Figure 26) fall down, damming the
stream, and thus in a measure retarding the eroding action behind. In
the upper portion the valley is very boggy, and here again the growth
of the grasses prevents the soil from being removed, though a treacher-
ous quagmire is the result.
The growth of underwood in numerous places has served to retard
the transportation of material to the great advantage of many parts of
P->
i
*
* t, a * * • *
t * *,
s', '', ', " ". . . . * * ~ *

172 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
the country. Accumulation of leaves, detritus, and other loose deposits
are swept down in times of freshets in large quantities and retained,
thus gradually increasing the depth of the river-channels by thickening
the deposits upon the banks. The dense growth of gooseberry-bushes
T U R F
*—
across Fool Creek, Yellowstone Basin.
--~ :- - - - - - - - "
FIG. 26.-Average section
upon the banks, and almost in the bed of the stream of Gooseberry
Creek, (tributary of Big Horn River south of Gray Bull River,) as well
as the large patches of tall grass, resembling grain-fields, in the same
section, are of the greatest value in this way, as is evinced by the less
effective action of the stream in wearing away its banks, and by the more
extensive accumulation of alluvium in these localities than at other
points along the same stream. These and other plants of like nature
are frequently met in similar situations, but they are especially charac-
teristic of the volcanic district and of the region about the eastern base
of the Sierra Shoshone. The excessive erosion of the Tertiary plains is
attributable in a large degree to the general absence of protective Veg-
etation, particularly to its absence from the vicinity of the streams.
Numerous examples are in mind, which could be given, of the existence
of deep gullies, small “earth-pillars” and other results of water-erosion
which would have been almost wholly prevented had there been but a
mere covering of turf or other matted vegetation.
Cotton-wood and other forms of Populus serve in the same manner as
the willow, the gooseberry, &c., to bind the soil by their roots and pre-
vent rapid waste of the land by running water. Fair-sized trees of this
genus border the streams in favorable localities, not unfrequently accom-
panied by a dense undergrowth of the same plant, as upon the Middle
Fork of Owl Creek, half a mile above Camp 26, where their value as a
restraint upon the action of the water is well indicated by the depth
and narrowness of the channel as compared with its limits beyond the
extent of their influence.
The importance of accumulations of fallen timber in preventing the
sliding and the rapid melting of the snow was mentioned in the last
chapter. Growing trees to a certain extent answer the same purposes,
and they also protect the surface in other ways. Binding the soil by
their roots, even with added weight, they have been the means of retain-
ing much of the detritus upon the steep slopes of the caſion-walls of the
North Fork of the Stinking Water, and elsewhere, perhaps nowhere
more noticeably than in the Grand Caſion of the Yellowstone. In the
nucleus of the Wind River Mountains, huge bowlders have been im-
prisoned by the gnarled and tangled roots of the pines on slopes so
near y vertical that the snow could not rest upon them were it not for
their roughness. The decay of leaves and trunks has covered the rocks
in very many places so deeply with vegetable mold that the ordinary
processes of weathering have been retarded or almost wholly checked.
The ancient spring deposits on Gardiner’s River and at other localities
are extremely liable to degradation by erosion and decomposition, and


RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 173
yet they have often been remarkably well preserved, owing mainly to
the protective action of plant-life and its results.
Lastly may be mentioned the protection afforded the less hardy plants
by belts or patches of timber lying upon the side from which come the
prevailing winds. It is always difficult to estimate the true value of
this element in special cases without more extended observation than it
is possible to obtain in a single season spent on the march, but some
slight idea of the real importance of this influence may be gained from
a single well-marked example. In the valley of Yellowstone River, just
Southeast of Sour Creek, there is a sand-flat of several acres so exposed as
to be frequently acted upon by local wind-currents, while the adjacent
timber is well arranged for the protection of much of the contiguous
unwooded area from the same currents. The sand-flat is more or less
covered with drifts and shifting dunes, but the protected portions are
clothed with excellent grass. Similar features are noticeable, with
variations according to circumstances, above the forks of Warm Spring
Creek and in one or two other sections.
II.—FORMATIVE ACTION.
Allusion has already been made to certain accumulations of vegetable
mold or humus, resulting from the decay of leaves and the trunks of
fallen trees. There is nothing very peculiar in these formations, except
that they are often rather remarkable for their extent and protective
power. The thick layer of this material which now covers deeply the
ancient hot-spring deposits of Gardiner’s River is particularly noticeable
on this account. This and other extensive accumulations in the present
thickly-wooded districts bear abundant evidence of the coniferous nature
of the vegetation, which, as now, has occupied these regions almost ex-
clusively for centuries past. The dry pine “needles” falling upon the
ground not only directly tend to increase the deposits, but they also
largely prevent Water-erosion of their own accumulations by the forma-
tion of a kind of thatch which protects the surface and serves to bind
the decayed material more firmly together. These facts will probably
explain the more abundant humic deposits in pine-clad countries, a
feature not confined to the Rocky Mountain region.
Upon the treeless plains, when clothed with turf, the amount of the
vegetable mold varies greatly, in some places being but two or three
inches in thickness, while in others, more accessible to moisture and less
exposed to the winds, accumulations of as many feet in depth have been
formed. On the arid Tertiary areas remote from the mountains and away
from the streams, especially in districts open to high prevalent winds,
there is, practically, no formation of humus, although the Soil is usually
very fertile.
Many interesting observations concerning other deposits of this char-
acter are necessarily omitted here, though often extensive and of great
importance. Alluvial deposits in portions of the district have been
caused by the damming up of the streams by fallen timber or by drift-
wood, but much more frequently by the retaining action of growing
vegetation in the flood seasons. These latter accumulations are most
abundant, perhaps, in the valley of the Upper Yellowstone River,
though they are represented in parts of the Wind River Valley, and,
markedly, on the tributaries of the Big Horn River north of the Owl
Creek range, as well as in the valley of Burns' Fork, (Uintah Mount-
ains,) and more especially on some of its affluents. Small lakes and
ponds abound in many sections, and it would require a lengthy chapter
174. RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
for the description of the characteristic deposits of each, to say nothing
of otber striking peculiarities. To allude to some of these in a very
general manner, it will answer the present purpose to divide these minor
bodies of water into three not well-defined classes. In the first division
may be included those lakes and ponds, with outlets, which are constant
or perpetual, i. e., those which retain water throughout the year, how-
ever they may fluctuate in level at different seasons. Such basins rarely
receive important deposits of purely vegetable matter, except as drift-
wood, which occasionally accumulates to a certain extent upon the
shores. Leaves and herbaceous stems will, however, become mixed with
the alluvium, and thus aid in some slight degree in the formative process,
though the comparative absence of deciduous trees from this region pre-
vents such effects to any considerable extent. Another class of lakes,
those, with or without outlets, which become dry during a part of the
year by drainage or evaporation, may be the cause of not unimportant
vegetable-deposits. A single case in point must suffice for illustration,
although many might be given from notes taken in the field. About
four miles south of Camp Brown, upon our outward march, on the first
day of July, we encountered, directly in the road, a still pond of shallow
water less than half an acre in extent. Around it, upon all sides, the
land surface was exposed to the Wind, and consequently mostly barren.
|Upon our return, in the middle of September, we rode through a slight
hollow where the pond had been, now completely dry and clothed with
the choicest grass, which was being made into excellent hay for use at
the post. The soil in which it grew was quite rich in humus, the result
of the decay of many previous crops not reaped by the hand of man.
The third division embraces the stagnant pools and ponds of various
sizes which are so very abundant in the Yellowstone Basin, though by
no means strictly confined to that region. These are usually productive
of important cumulative results on account of the continual progress of
decomposition, which furnishes abundant food for the growth of many
plants. Accordingly we find these places crowded with aquatic forms
of vegetation, which by subsequent decay gives rise to noticeable deposits
of humus.
Nor is this all. The very large tracts of country covered by fallen
timber have so influenced the drainage as to form vast swamps in which
the greater portion of the local vegetable products are retained and de-
composed. In such places the vegetation is, of course, very luxuriant
and of rapid growth, and it is also of such a character that the annual
contribution of waste material, such as leaves, stems, and fruits, is much
larger than in the drier and more exposed localities. The consequent
accumulations of muck are very great, While to all this must be added
the enhanced decay of the fallen timber itself, resulting from exposure
to conditions brought about by its own prostration, though in many
cases this is retarded by the antiseptic properties of the swamp extract,
which only serves to increase the bulk of the deposit, however.”
In this connection, the enormous quantity of silicified wood, which is
so commonly distributed in portions of the volcanic series, and which is
now being formed to some extent by geyser action, may be mentioned
in passing as one very prominent example of a vegetable accumulation.
In this case, however, the result is due mainly to the exertion of forces
elsewhere considered, and to the deposition of preservative material
not derived from the vegetable kingdom. The process by which this
* It should be noted that the dryness of the climate and the nature of the vegation
together exert a retarding influence upon the decay of the blasted timber, thus adding
greatly to the continuance of the above effects.
TECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 175
deposit has been produced will receive attention in a succeeding chap-
ter, to which the reader is referred for further information upon this
subject. To avoid repetition one or two other formations of minor ilm-
portance, resulting more or less directly from the growth and decay of
plants, but also dependent upon the action of geysers or hot Springs,
Will be left for discussion beyond.
III.--DESTIRUCTIVE ACTION.
So far as Western Wyoming is concerned it does not appear that the
destructive effects of plant-life have been at all commensurate with the
protective and reproductive influence of vegetation. Land-slides in the
mountainous districts are very rare, if We may judge from the absence
of frequent proof of such occurrences. There are many places along
the walls of the caſion of North Fork of Stinking water River, where
the loose earth and gravel is almost constantly falling down the steeper
slopes, but this bears no resemblance in extent or effect to a real land-
slide. Even upon the nearly vertical walls of the Grand Cañon of the
Yellowstone, where pines often grow, there is no evidence of frequent
or extensive changes of this nature. There is, on the contrary, conclu-
sive proof that the roots of the trees often prevent land-slides by bind-
ing the soil and the rocks more firmly together.
The destructive element in connection with vegetation is, therefore,
reduced to a small amount. The extensive growth of lichens upon the
rocks, giving them at a little distance an unnatural color, shows that
the disintegration due to their presence is notable, at least, although it
would be difficult to determine the extent of their influence. Large trees,
undermined by the wear of the water upon the banks of streams, cause
considerable destruction when they fall by tearing up the soil about
their roots, and the effect is produced more generally by the prostration
of timber by the Wind.
EFFECTS OF ANIMAL LIFE.
The geological or dynamical action resulting from the life and death
of animals will be treated under three heads, similar in scope to the pre-
ceding, viz.: 1. Protective effects; 2. Cumulative effects; 3. Destructive
effects.
I.—PROTECTIVE EFFECTS.
Animals exert but little conservative influence in any way, and that
indirectly, but it is, nevertheless, true that some slight preservation of
the surface can be traced to them in this region. To say nothing of the
hard-beaten paths or trails made by the domesticated animals of the
white man and the Indians, game-trails almost without number are to
be seen all over the district wherever the country is not so open as to
allow of the Scattering of the animals to feed, and one soon learns to
detect the character of the animals which have made them, from certain
peculiarities in each case. The bison prefers the plains, and the great
weight of his body and its clumsiness compels him to climb the heights
and knolls by a gradual or zigzag course. The elk often passes high up
in the mountains, and the trails made by droves of this animal are quite
direct, but never as steep as the courses often taken by the big-horn, or
mountain-sheep. At first the passage of large droves of animals over
the same course wears the surface, loosening it and causing the dust to
be swept out of the trail by the wind, but the final result is to leave the
176 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
soil so compact that vegetation Will not grow upon the path for many
years afterward. This protects the surface somewhat, especially if the
trails have been made along the edge of a bluff, one above another, as
is so commonly the case with the bison, paths. But this conservation is
slight compared With the effects produced by another habit of this ani-
mal. All over the wide tract which has been traversed by the bison
within the past fifty years there may be seen circular patches of grass
in greater or less number, often now raised slightly above the surround-
ing surface in Windy sections. Catlin, in his valuable work entitled
“North American Indians,” refers to these patches in the lower valley
of the Missouri, and his explanation of their origin is no doubt correct.
Without entering upon a lengthy discussion, it may be remarked that
the bison is fond of wallowing in the mud, and no one can travel far in
the West without meeting with what are there called “buffalo-wallows.”
These are shallow depressions, bearing some resemblance to the familiar
“hog-wallow” by the roadside in the rural districts, though more nearly
circular or semi-oval in outline. On account of the erratic habits of the
animal large numbers of these depressions will be left, wherever the
herds have rested in a suitable spot, to be filled with water by the rains,
which, by evaporation, allows of the growth of grass to fix the soil by
its roots, while the surrounding surface, if parched, as is often the case,
may be degraded by the Winds, leaving the grass-plats at a higher level.
II.-CUMULATIVE EFFECTS.
There are very few recent animal formations of much geological im-
portance to be presented under this head, but there are several interest-
ing and somewhat peculiar deposits of limited extent which deserve a
share of our attention in this place. Next to the barren aspect of the
great plains produced by the aridity of the climate, there is nothing
which has so much to do with their appearance of utter desolation as
the Widespread accumulations of the bones of the bison and other ani-
mals which have been so recklessly slaughtered for the sake of the sport
of hunting.(?) them, or, at best, for the mere value of their hides. Mil-
lions upon millions of the skeletons of these animals now lie bleaching
upon the surface, and it is almost certain that very many of them will
become entombed much after the manner of their Eocene ancestors
buried in the deposits of the Bridger group of strata. The present con-
ditions for their fossilization are less favorable than during the Tertiary
period, but many of the bones are already partly or wholly covered by
the drifted sands, or by the growth of vegetation around them, and
many have, no doubt, been transported by the streams and buried in
the alluvial deposits.
“Buffalo-chips,” as the dried dung of the bison is called, is common as
a thickly-scattered surface-deposit in sections where it has not been
covered by wind-action, though it is scarce along the line of the Well-
traveled roads, on account of its frequent use as fuel for camp-fires. In
a few localities small deposits of guano exist in crevices in the rocks
not exposed to the action of the rains. Opposite Camp 24, on a short
tributary of Dry Creek, (Wind River Plateau,) I noticed in such a crevice
a rich deposit of at least half a bushel. In many places in the Sierra
Shoshone the weathering of the rocks has produced admirable crevices
or fissures for the nests of owls, and frequently the walls of these are
lined with a richly-colored glossy deposit of their excrement, mixed with
the pellets of indigestible material ejected through their throats, accord-
ing to their habit. Much of this is very resinous and not in the least
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 177
offensive to nose or eye of one who does not know its real character.
In fact, one of the party expressed a desire to taste a portion of it until
informed of its true nature. This very strong resinous odor and quali-
ty is rather difficult to explain, except upon the supposition that the
Crevices are commonly shared by the owls with other birds which feed
upon the Seeds of the pines, though it is just possible that it is the re-
Sult of secondary action, caused by the decomposition of the pine
“needles” which fall into the crevices and become mixed with the guano.
The beaver may, perhaps, be properly credited with the indirect and
unintentional formation of local deposits of alluvium by the damming
of streams, but this effect is more than counterbalanced by its destruc-
tive tendencies. A few rather important but not extensive cases of fos-
silization by immersion in the basins of hot springs were noticed, but
they do not require fuller notice in the present chapter, as further men-
tion will be made of them in the section devoted to the geysers and hot
Springs.
III. —DESTIR U CTIVE EFFECTS.
The beaver is probably entitled to take the lead in the work of de-
struction. These animals are still common in portions of the Yellow-
stone Park, and elsewhere, but the hand of man is already turned against
them, and their works are, in most places, more numerous than them-
selves. It is unnecessary to describe these structures or their effects,
for they are already widely known. Prairie-dogs and other burrowing
animals are very commonly distributed throughout the region, and their
actions have resulted in more or less destruction to the soil by bringing
to the surface deposits of sand, which is scattered by the winds, and by
injuring the solidity of the ground above their burrows. The destruc-
tion of vegetation by beavers occasionally has been quite general over
small areas, but usually it has only accomplished a more or less beneficial
thinning out of superfluous growth. Grasshoppers, in some sections,
particularly on the Shoshone Plateau, have been instrumental in the
destruction of vegetation to a remarkable degree, at seasons of the year
when such devastation is often detrimental to the life of the plants.
CEIEMICAL GEOLOGY.
A large number of interesting details remain to be considered, con-
cerning which a quantity of illustrative material has been gathered, but
which must be very generally treated within the prescribed limits of the
present chapter. Much of this material requires careful chemical anal-
ysis for its complete elucidation, and this it has been impossible to pro-
cure, though the author indulges the hope that opportunity for its elab-
oration at some time in the future may yield valuable results in a depart-
ment of geological science which assuredly deserves thoughtful consid-
eration on the part of investigators. In the foregoing pages of the Sec-
tion relating to dynamical geology, very little has been said of the
chemical changes which have taken place in the rocks since their depo-
sition or of the important products which have resulted from chemical
action.
The remainder of this chapter is, therefore, allotted to these subjects,
including also some of the more important effects produced by the action
of the atmosphere. No classification can Well be adopted, and the
rarious effects will be taken up in convenient order without regard to
perfect system. In order to partially supply this lack, minor headings,
in italics, are introduced for greater convenience of reference,
H. Ex. 285 12
1 78 RECONN AISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
WWEATHERING OF ROCKS.
It will not be necessary to speak in a detailed manner of the charac-
teristic modes of weathering of the rocks of the various formations, but
there are certain peculiarities in the effects of climatic and other influ.
ences upon special layers in some sections, which are of sufficient impor-
tance to merit attention.
OSome in the atmosphere.—Many of the sandstones of the Green River
group of Eocene beds, though white inside, weather reddish upon the
exposed surface. The mere presence of iron in this rock seemed insuf-
ficient to account for the very marked change in color, but for several
days no clue was obtained toward any more satisfactory Solution. While
engaged with Dr. Heizman in some preliminary analyses at our camp
on Little Sandy River, I noticed that blue litmus-paper rapidly reddened
upon exposure to the air, even when moistened with ammonia. Dr.
Heizman, then and subsequently, kindly made several tests for ozone
with iodized starch-paper, and found it abundant. This, then, may
account for the excessive oxidation of many of the rocks of the Green
River basin. This action is also noticeable in other Sections where sim-
ilar beds are exposed, but it seems to be mainly confined to the more
compact beds, which, is, perhaps, owing to the fact that the more friable
beds become more rapidly disintegrated and crumble before they can
become colored. This will also explain the otherwise remarkable fact
that the reddening effect is seen only upon those rocks not very highly
ferruginous, though oxidation has taken place much more extensively in
rocks highly charged with iron. If we seek to account for the presence
of so great an amount of ozone in the atmosphere, it seems probable
that it is due to the strong wind-currents or to some peculiar electrical
condition of the atmosphere not accompanied by sufficient heat to pre-
vent its accumulation. -
Comcretionary structure.
It is in the Tertiary rocks especially that the most interesting exam-
ples of nodular and concretionary forms may be found.
It would be no easy matter to enumerate the various peculiarities in
the modes of weathering which have been induced by this structure,
much less is it possible to describe more than a very few of the leading
varieties, within the narrow limits of this section. In the Bridger group
of beds large quantities of siliceous material are found, sometimes in
compact cherty layers, but often in nodular masses, and frequently in
concretionary forms with concentric or concentring layers. Sometimes
these are lined with minute crystals of quartz, being in effect roughly-
shaped geodes; others are little more than the fillings of cavities of
irregular form, without separation into bands. Again there will be seen
a huge concretion, composed of alternating layers of sandstone and
intrusive chalcedony, the latter partly in “tears,” partly massive or even
crystalline. Very often in arenaceous and marly beds the concretionary
structure appears almost to be entirely induced by the weathering of the
rock, the oxidation of calcareous or ferruginous material giving rise to
more or less concentric bands of color.
In the sub-Tertiary rocks concretions are often common. The Niagara
limestone contains jaspery flakes and “drusy" cavities filled with beauti-
ful agate concretions; clay ironstones, sometimes with plant-fossils, occur
in the Cretaceous beds near Gray Bull River and at other points; and
geodes of calc-spar are abundant in nearly all of the sedimentary rocks.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 179
The volcanic rocks are very well supplied with these secondary form-
ations, as instance the botryoidal geodes of the Yellowstone River, men-
tioned in the last chapter, and the great variety of interesting forms
associated with the masses of silicified wood at Amethyst Mountain, on
the south of the Jºast Fork of the Yellowstone. Even the geyser
deposits sometimes take on the coucretionary, or, more properly, the
Concentric structure.
. The principal forms of concretions will be found more fully described
in the chapters relating to stratigraphy, under the heads of the different
formations.
Influence of climatic conditions.—In Winter the temperature of this
region is severe but steady, and the Surface is mostly covered with
snow, which protects if to some extent from the effects of the various
Weathering influences. In the early spring and late fall the action of
frost, in rending apart the rocks and enlarging the fissures, becomes an
important element among the numerous dynamical agents, and it is
probable that the alternate freezing and thawing which takes place at
these seasons is productive of a large part of the Weathering effects
which are exhibited upon a scale of great magnitude in many parts of
the district. Positive proof of the Workings of this force from actual
observations are wanting, but no one at all familiar with the ordinary
results of such action will be disposed to doubt the propriety of the
above statement when told that the necessary conditions of thawing
and freezing are present during a large portion of the year in a high
degree of intensity. Evidences of the slight movement of large masses
of rock from the original positions by some force of this nature are very
common. Some excellent examples of this action may be seen in the
Wind River Mountains, particularly in the neighborhood of the nucleus,
though it would be difficult to name a single rock-exposure in the whole
district where such effects are not visible. Any person at all familiar
with this process and its results in places in which freezing can take
place only during a small portion of the year, will be prepared to recog-
nize the dynamical importance of this agent in a country where there
are but few nights, even in Summer, during which the temperature does
not fall below 320 Fahrenheit. In the central portion of the Wind River
range the profound chasms have often been choked with immense accu-
mulations of angular granitic bowlders which could never have been
thrown down from positions in the cliffs without the intervention of the
force produced by the expansion of Water in assuming the solid condi-
tion. Steep cliffs of the Quebec group and the Niagara dolomite are
almost invariably accompanied by large blocks at their base, which
have thus been forced from their original places. The same features
are observable in jointed exposures of the rocks of all the formations,
but not always to the same extent. In many of the Tertiary rocks, as
well as with some of the members of the metamorphic series and in cer-
tain argillaceous beds of the intervening formations, the strata are tra-
versed by very numerous joints, which in a measure prevents the accu-
mulation of Water in the crevices for the formation of ice, and also leaves
in the talus much less convincing proof of its mode of origin.
In the volcanic conglomerate in a large number of places there are
good-sized cavernous holes, sometimes high above the ground. It is pos-
sible that some of these at the bases of cliffs may have been formed by
ſave action upon the shores of Miocene lakes; but many, and by far
the greater number, have, undoubtedly, been caused by other agencies.
Not a few show pretty clearly that they are the result of the action of .
freezing water in fissures, which has caused large masses to be dis-
180 RECONN AISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN W YOMING.
lodged at the Weaker points from time to time without affecting the bulk
of the rock adjoining the crevices. The alternate expansion and con-
traction of the rocks by differences of temperature in the days and the
nights is, doubtless, of great consequence as a dynamical agent, although
the actual effects produced are usually very difficult to ascertain. No
special facts have been collected which can be offered with entire con.
fidence, but the following remarks will enable the reader to form some
general idea of the influence which these thermic changes must exert
upon the rocks of this section : The difference between the day and
night temperature (i. e., maximum for day, liminimum for night) upon the
plains during the summer months is frequently as much as 300 or 400,
and it often becomes as great as 50° during the month of August. Dr.
Livingstone” reports that the rapid contraction by cooling of rocks in
Africa heated to a temperature of 1379 Fahrenheit during the day, was
sufficient to cause the breaking off of masses weighing even two hun-
dred pounds in some instances. It may at least be suggested that this
cause has been instrumental in the weathering of the rocks in the Rocky
Mountain region to a greater degree than has generally been supposed,
Summary.—In general, it may be remarked that the Tertiary rocks
show the effects of erosion and weathering much more clearly and ex-
tensively than the earlier rocks. This is due to two things: the greater
activity of the eroding agencies, and the more fragile and soluble nature
of the later horizontal strata. Another prominent cause is the rather
abundant presence of formative and protective agencies in the moister
mountainous districts, which are almost entirely absent upon the plains.
Again, in the mountains there is greater resistance to the exercise of
mechanical force, While below the chemical action is also increased, so
that, upon the whole, the later series is exposed to far greater destruc-
tive influence, at the same time that its power of resistance is very small
in proportion to that of the more ancient deposits.
CHEMICAL CHANGES AND PRODUCTS.
As before stated, a clear and comprehensive elucidation of the impor-
tant subject of chemical geology cannot be given in these pages, but
the present chapter would be incomplete without some reference to the
more prominent changes resulting from chemical action, both in the
direction of degradation of ancient deposits, and the accumulation of
new formations from their waste. Hitherto, the chemical or physical
processes of solution, condensation, evaporation, and precipitation, have
been scarcely mentioned, in order that their effects might be more sys-
tematically considered in this portion of the report. For the sake of
convenience, rather than from any natural method of arrangement,
these subjects may be taken up in the Order which has just been given.
Solvent action of water.—As Water, in its passage over the rocks,
takes from them the more soluble ingredients, its power to effect similar
changes upon the rocks afterward met is more or less modified, accor-
ding to a variety of circumstances. On this account it will be best for
us to begin at the sources of the streams in the mountains and follow
them down across the plains, that the ascertained results may be more
clearly understood. Chemically speaking, there are two classes of
mountain streams, which may be productive of somewhat different
effects in the way of solution of the mineral ingredients of the soil and
* “Zambesi,” pp. 492, 516. Quoted in “Manual of Geology,” Jukes & Geikie, (third
edition,) p. 376.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 181
the rocks. To the first group belong those which are the direct prod-
ucts of the melting snows, and which pass off quickly to the plains over
the Surface of the ground. The second division comprises those which
proceed from springs, in which the water has percolated through the
Soil, and has become partially saturated with the more soluble sub-
stances. In the region of the Rocky Mountains, where snow lies in the
higher ridges almost perpetually, it is seldom possible to separate these
two classes of streams, for very soon they will be found united in the
same channels. There are, it is true, in the Yellowstone Basin, some
important streams which proceed from Springs alone; but in nearly
every instance of this kind, the water passes for many miles over rock
which is practically identical, mineralogically, with the formation in
which the springs occur, so that the observed effects are much the same
as in the snow-fed streams, which traverse the same district. A nota-
ble and not unimportant exception must be made in the case of the
prominent aqueous products of the geysers and hot Springs, which will
receive special attention. -
The extensive accumulations of decomposing vegetable matter in
most of the mountainous districts furnish favorable conditions for the
absorption of carbonic acid by the Water, and this has no doubt had
much to do with the excessive erosion which has taken place in the
limestone exposures, and it may partly account for the general emerg-
ence of the streams from the mountains through cañons cut in the
limestone. The absence of thick accumulations of soil is a very notice-
able feature of a large part of the country, and this is due to the solu-
tion of the limestone, which is then carried off by the streams. Upon
reaching the plains the waters become saturated with the more soluble
mineral ingredients, though in seasons of freshets this may not take
place until the stream has traversed the open country for a long dis-
tance. The Water at this stage will contain allvaline carbonates which
will have increased its solvent power, and even silica will be attacked
and dissolved. In the Tertiary rocks there are many cherty beds and
layers of the more soluble forms of silica which thus add their quota
to the amount. In flood-seasons the banks of the streams are over-
flowed, and pools and small ponds are left in low spots when the cur-
rent subsides. Rains and melted snow-Water pass down through the
crevices of the rocks, and the same ingredients are extracted, but with
less of variety in each case than will be found in running water which
has passed over many different rocks containing a great assortment of
minerals.
Subterranean waters.-The presence of limestone-beds in such great
Quantity as to form the bulk of the Paleozoic and Mesozoic rocks as
well as the regular but extended tilting of the strata, has produced
fissures and underground passages, since enlarged by the Waters, through
which the drainage of the country is now partly effected. When the
streams from these subterranean channels reach the surface in limestone
districts, or in places where carbonic acid is forming from the decomposi-
tion of carbonates or of organic matter, bubbles of this gas (CO2) are sent
off in quantity. Springs of this kind exist in many parts of the Yel-
lowstone Basin and in other portions of the Volcanic district. Yellow
Water Creek, a southern tributary of Gray Bull River, originates in a
chalybeate spring which is very highly charged with carbonic acid. The
hot springs below Camp Brown also evolve considerable quantities of
this gas. Several cold sulphur-springs issue from the Triassic and other
rocks containing gypsum as a deposit or in process of formation by the
decomposition of pyrites. Near the left bank of the Little Popoagie,
182 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
and also at Camp Brown, thick oil issues from the earth, probably con-
nected in some way with the Cretaceous coal or lignite beds not far dis-
tant in either case. Both of these springs are located Within or near
a prominent fold involving the Subtertiary strata. At Our camp on
Spring Creek, at the southern base of the Owl Creek range, several
springs of bitter “alkali” water afforded the only means of quenching
thirst. Sour Creek entering the Yellowstone above the falls, from
the right bank, Warm Spring Creek, nearly opposite, and all the promi-
ment streams of the geyser basins, are highly charged With mineral
ingredients held in solution, largely the result of the action of subterra-
nean WaterS.
As might be inferred from the horizontal disposition of the Tertiary
strata, and from their extensive erosion into buttes and benches, springs
are seldom or never present over the area occupied by them, except in
cases in which they may originate in other formations and reach the
surface through the Tertiary beds.
The most important and extended results of the action of underground
water are exhibited in those sections where heat has accompanied its
movements, as in the geysers and hot springs of the National Park
which fall to be described in a subsequent portion of this Work.
Results of condensation and evaporation.—In the Tertiary districts the
surcharged streams, and particularly the stagnant pools produced by
the overflow, soon become condensed by the heat of the Sun and the
drying action of the wind. In soils which are not argillaceous, or in
those which are covered with turf, this results in the production of a
sirupy saline liquid, and finally, if the evaporation be sufficiently ex-
tended, the so-called “alkali” deposit is formed. In clays the evapo-
ration is retarded and chemical changes doubtless take place contin-
ually. If the saline accumulation be excessive, or if the evaporation be
insufficient to dry the clay, a bog or slough is the result, and these are
commonly known as “alkali bogs” and “alkali holes.” Along the
edges of the streams and upon the overflowed grass after the receding
of the waters, a deposit is formed which is usually reddish or brown at
first, from the presence of iron, becoming white or grayish upon expo-
sure to the air and drying. This is usually called “alkali,” although
it frequently contains scarcely a trace of potassa or soda. A Specimen
of this deposit gathered by myself on June 20, 1873, from a fresh accu-
mulation on Little Sandy River, was qualitatively analyzed the Same
day by Dr. Heizman and myself with the following result:
Alumina, very abundant.
Magnesia, in considerable quantity.
Lime, in small quantity.
Iron, small amount.
Carbonic acid, considerable.
Sulphuric acid, very abundant.
In a peculiarly weathered concretion exposed in a bluff or butte near
the same locality a quantity of siliceous marl was inclosed by a deposi-
tion of chalcedony in “tears.” An analysis of the marl yielded :
Alumina, in considerable quantity.
Magnesia, in considerable quantity.
Lime, abundant. -
Iron, small amount. .
Silica, basis of the marly deposit.
Carbonic acid, in considerable quantity.
Sulphuric acid, in considerable quantity.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTH WESTERN WYOMING. 183
The very large quantities of “alkali” which exist so widely over the
plains as an efflorescent deposit have probably been formed by the
evaporation of former extensive lakes and ponds left over the Tertiary
basins by the draining of the ancient lakes which once covered the
Whole area. Some of these deposits are of great thickness, but none
Worthy of more special notice were met upon our line of march. The
same process is in operation at present, as described above, but the re-
Sults are small when compared with what was accomplished in ancient
times, because the streams now carry off the greater portion of the sol-
uble material. In these old ponds also are found the readily soluble in-
gredients as well as those which are sparingly soluble, while the streams
leave behind only the substances which are not so easily held in solu-
tion.
The various deposits of the hot springs and geysers to be hereinafter
described might properly be discussed under this head were it not more
convenient to consider them in a chapter by themselves.
Precipitation.—The only prominent example of undoubted precipita-
tion occurring in a natural aqueous Solution along our line of march
was noticed in a portion of Yellow Water Creek.” The Water is slightly
alkaline, and contains or receives a large amount of iron from an ore-
bed near its source. Much of the iron is precipitated as ferric hydrate,
(Fe2O3, H. O.) This settles to the bottom, but it entangles carbonic
acid which struggles, as it were, to free itself, thus lifting the precipi-
tated mass toward the surface a little way. A few rods below, the Water
becomes clear and more palatable, from which it would seem that the
iron had by this time exhausted the alkaline principle so that the pre-
cipitation can no longer take place. This phenomenon is very interest-
ing and quite remarkable.
Nothing but the absolute necessity of completing this report within
the allotted time bas compelled the omission of not a little in the Way
of facts bearing upon the important subjects of this chapter. An en-
deavor has been made, however, to introduce those facts and observa-
tions of the Writer which are of the greatest interest, and such as will
most aid in connecting together the several parts of the report in a har-
monious whole.
C EI A P T E R IX.
THERMO-I)YNAMICS –IGNEOUS ROCKS AND HOT SPRINGS.
Volcanic action—Fissure and crater eruptions—Thermal springs: I. Turbid Lake
group; II. Steamboat group : III. Green Spring, Sulphur (!) Hills, &c.; IV. Mud-
volcanoes and Crater-Hills; W. Forest group : VI. Wayside group, &c.; VII. Bath
Spring, near Camp Brown.
In this and the three succeeding chapters, we shall have to deal With
subjects which might appropriately have been discussed in part in each of
the four or five preceding chapters, but which, from a certain special
interest that attaches to them and for other obvious reasons, may be
more satisfactorily considered separately. It is fitting that this review
should occupy the position here given it on account of its historical and
dynamical relations, both of which have been of the greatest moment in
* Precipitation occurs commonly in regions of hot springs and geysers also, but this
subject will receive more attention beyond,
184 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
shaping the physical features of a vast expanse of Western territory,
and often in the production of deposits of economic value.
In several places in the course of the discussion of subjects connected
with stratigraphy and dynamical geology, in the previous pages of this
report, it has been necessary to refer to topics which are now to be con-
sidered; but in no case has any subject of this nature been treated with
any degree of completeness. It is hoped that the material presented in
these two chapters will prove at least as interesting and valuable as
that of any chapter which has preceded them, although evidences of haste
in their preparation cannot be avoided.
The subject of thermo-dynamics, or the final effects and the passing
phenomena of heat-action, naturally divides itself into four heads in
the region embraced by our reconnaissance. These are : 1. Fissure-
eruption; 2. Crater-eruption; 3. Geyser action; 4. Hot-spring action,
including also solfataras and fumeroles. This arrangement is based
upon the general chronological sequence of the phenomena, and it will
be seen to represent successive stages in the diminution of thermal inten-
sity. For reasons that may be apparent to those who have followed
the author through the preceding pages of this report, the above Order
will not be strictly observed in speaking upon these topics, but an effort
will be made to treat the subject in such a manner as to accomplish the
best results possible in a limited space.
V OLCANIC ACTION.
The proper treatment of the highly interesting subject of the history
and dynamical effects of the ancient volcanic action would require more
time and space than can be devoted to its discussion in these pages.
A review of the history will be found in portions of chapters IV, V, and
VII, reference to which may be made with little difficulty, and it will,
therefore, be unnecessary to repeat it here, though some additional de-
tails may be given for the sake of clearness.
Prof. Joseph Le Conte, of the University of California, spent a por-
tion of the summer of 1873 in the field-study of the volcanic rocks west
of the Rocky Mountain chain, and his views, which have been published
in the American Journal of Science, March and April, 1874, are in many
respects identical with those held by myself concerning the history of
their accumulation. There are many unsolved problems connected with
this subject; but the backbone, as it were, of the history seems now to
have been largely determined, and with this key to the structure the
labors of future investigators will be in a measure simplified.
F [SSU RE-EIR UPTIONS.
The earliest outflows did not pass over smooth surfaces, apparently in
all cases, but they appear to have met with large bowlders strewn over
the surface and with growing timber and other obstructions, which Were
cemented together by the igneous material into thick beds. It is prob-
able that masses of the sedimentary beds were Occasionally ejected also
from the fissures, but I am obliged to differ with Dr. Hayden as to the
extent of such effects. In his report for 1871, page 138, he remarks:
“My impression is that when the old volcanoes disgorged their con-
tents into the great lake of waters around, they threw out also por-
tions from the sedimentary formations, and thus the Silicified Wood
comes from the Tertiary or Cretaceous beds, which may have formed the
upper part of the walls of the crater. To my own mind, there are sev-
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 185
eral prominent objections to this belief; but first, it will be well to explain,
more fully than has yet been done in these pages, some of the leading
characteristics of the conglomerates in which the immense deposits of
Silicified wood are contained. In some respects the lower deposits of con-
glomerate differ from those of later origin; but the dissimilarities are not
of Sufficient importance to justify the belief that they have been formed
under very different circumstances, except, perhaps, in the case of the
earliest beds, which often contain many more fragments of the meta-
morphic and sedimentary rocks than are usually found in the higher
beds.
The later conglomerates also lie, for the most part, in a nearly horizon.
tal position, while the lower beds follow quite closely the irregular con-
tour of the surface at the time of their deposition. It is very difficult
to conceive of the condition of the surface at the period of the later out-
flows; nor would it be wise to attempt wholly to explain all the observed
phenomena without a much wider knowledge than is at present pos-
sessed of the distribution of the various volcanic formations. No other
explanation of the horizontality of the upper conglomerates seems at
present admissible than that they were deposited, or, at least, arranged,
under water, as Hayden has observed. This is partly proved by the
occurrence of intervening layers of sands and clays at various points;
but it must be acknowledged that many of the facts are not easily
accounted for upon this hypothesis. -
Often quite large masses of the Tertiary and other strata are inclosed
in the cement of the breccias; and these are frequently composed of
thin layers, which have not been separated from each other, as must
have been the case had they been forcibly ejected. These sedimentary
beds, often containing plant-remains, (Miocene probably,) are also usu-
ally disposed horizontally, and, even when much broken and widely
separated, a certain continuity can be traced, which proves, beyond the
shadow of doubt, that they have been covered where they lay before
the volcanic outflows took place. It is, then, highly probable that the
semi-aqueous breccias and conglomerates, being thrown out into large
bodies of water covering the sedimentary strata, have disrupted the
latter in places, leaving other portions to be inclosed by the igneous
material in situ. -
The silicified Wood exists in enormous quantities in many of the vol-
canic breccias and conglomerates; and thousands of excellent specimens
may readily be obtained beside which the ordinary fragments so often
preserved in museums will sink into insignificance. In many instances,
large iogs and stumps of trees are found entire; and examples have previ-
ously been given of the existence of the upright trunks of trees in some of
the beds. From Amethyst Mountain I obtained pieces which had been
worm-eaten, before becoming fossilized, and several logs were observed
which had been Worn very smooth by Water-action previous to the change.
In both of these cases there was every reason for believing that the wood
had been rather suddenly acted upon, and that it had not been formerly
deposited as a sediment; for the worm-holes had apparently never been
filled by mud, and the water-worn logs had the appearance of recent
drift-wood. As for the large majority of the silicified logs and Stumps,
I am quite confident that they were contemporaneous with the igneous
deposits in which they are now inclosed; and this opinion is based upon
a much greater amount of evidence than can be presented here With-
out detriment to other portions of the report. There are other more
fragmentary accumulations of this material in the later strata, which
have probably been formed to some extent by hot-spring action, and
186 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
in these memilite is not uncommon. The process of silicification, in my
opinion, so far as the bulkier masses are concerned, has been that of
the infiltration of silica by means of water percolating through the
igneous material ; for cavities in the wood and in adjacent portions of
the conglomerate are now very often lined with perfect quartz-crystals
in great variety of color and arrangement, particularly in the vicinity
of Amethyst Mountain, on the left bank of East Fork of the Yellowstone
River. Quite commonly, the wood shows signs of charring or of lesser
heat-action upon the outside, which cannot be explained unless we
adopt the conclusion that it was not mineralized at the time of the
igneous ejections. Often, large cylindrical masses of very beautifully.
banded opal, of richly-variegated colors, will be found in cavities with
an exterior and interior resemblance to wood; and these very frequently
present an irregular surface across one end, as if the tree or log had
been broken in two by the force of the flow, leaving a fractured end
upon which the concretion was formed and continued beyond the wood.
In other cases, it appears that the wood was nearly or quite consumed,
but so slowly that an impression was left of the exterior in the volcanic
cement, to be afterward filled up with silica with more or less of a con-
cretionary structure. In this way, as well as in cavities formed by other
means, geodes and other concretionary forms have been produced in
quantity with almost every conceivable variety of structure and coloring.
The position of the ancient fissures cannot be accurately determined
except by extended observation. Dr. Le Conte, as the result of special
observations in Oregon and Westward, is convinced that the principal
fissures in that section were located in the Cascade and Blue ranges;
but it is probable that others, perhaps of less importance, existed east-
ward from that region. There is yet the greater part to be learned con-
cerning the deposition of the beds surrounding the Yellowstone basin ;
and it is with some slight hesitancy that the following views are ad-
vanced, although they appear to be well supported by the facts so far
as they have been observed. The author hopes yet to do more thorough
work in this intensely interesting field; but, in the mean time, it will not
be out of place to record here some opinions, which may serve, in some
measure, as a basis for future investigations. So far as I am aware,
these views do not very widely differ from those held by others who
have traversed a portion of this field. In brief, then, it seems evident
that the topographical separation of the Sierra Shoshone mass from
the volcanic district to the westward is no less a disjunction, geologically
considered. It is barely possible that the Yellowstone Lake basin as
such was of pre-volcanic origin; but this is, to say the very least,
extremely improbable. I think there can be little doubt that Miocene
fresh-water lakes extended Over a large portion of the area now cov-
ered by the volcanic rocks cast of the Rocky Mountain divide, though
the deposits of that age have been so covered and disarranged by the
subsequent igneous outflows that it is now next to impossible to trace
the boundaries of the separate basins.
Richthofen, who has proposed a minute classification of the fissure-ejec-
tions, claims that the succession of these rocks is fixed and in the fol-
lowing order, beginning with the earliest formed: 1, Propylite ; 2, An-
desite ; 3, Trachyte; 4, Rhyolite ; 5, Basalt. The fine exposures in the
deep-cut caſions afford excellent opportunities for the Settlement of this
subject; for it is possible to obtain a nearly complete vertical section of
the whole series, although this will require careful and extended investi-
gation. With the amount of study that I have been thus far able to
give the large number of specimens which I have collected from these
HECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWNSTERN WYOMING. 187
beds, it is impossible to offer much of value bearing upon this question ;
but it may be said, in a general way, that the order of succession of such
of the layers as appear without doubt to represent the fissure-eruptions
is not unlike the above in the district under consideration. The classi-
fication proposed by Baron Richthofen separates varieties of igneous
rocks which may, in one or two instances, be too closely allied to admit
of such distinction ; though too little is known of the mineralogical rela-
tions of all these rocks to enable a more natural system to be adopted.
The lowest conglomerate bed is propylitic, i. e., it is cemented with
propylite; and the overlying lavas, as exposed in the lower portion of
the caſion of North Fork of the Stinking water, are propylite until the
region of dikes is reached, when andesite comes in, apparently having
broken through the propylite by new fissures in places. Above the latter,
as a rule, occur thick beds of sanidin-trachyte, or trachyte-porphyry, con-
taining crystals of sanidin. The rhyolite beds, probably, in most cases,
overlie these, and these are succeeded by layers of basalt, often columnar,
and sometimes brick jointed. There are many intermediate varieties of
these rocks, including compact and cellular, porphyritic and amygda-
loidal, quartzose and felspathic, and the lavas are interspersed with
tufaceous and other breccias frequently partly formed from the material
of the preceding layers.
Judging from sections exposed in the Yellowstone basin and in the
valley and the caſion of the Yellowstone River, it would appear that,
after the deposition of the Miocene beds, the first outflows of propylite
had passed across this region, and probably a large part of the succeed-
ing fissure-ejections, including the basalt-flows. I am strongly inclined
to believe that at least one prominent fissure existed during the propy-
litic, andesitic, and trachytic periods (and possibly during the period
of basaltic eruption, though this is somewhat doubtful) at a point some
Iniles east of the present watershed on the east of Yellowstone Lake.
The location of this fissure need not have been permanent, however; but
it may have shifted its position at each period of action. The formation
of the Yellowstone Lake basin, according to this view, is, then, readily
accounted for by supposing the area, now occupied by it to have been
situated between the limits of an eastward and a Westward lava-stream,
which approached each other without meeting, except, perhaps, during
the earlier eruptions.
It must be remembered that the fissure-action continued during a
very long era, extending from near the close of the Miocene epoch until
probably late Pliocene times, or perhaps even into the Post-Tertiary
period; and that, between each period of outflow as well as between each
separate eruption, erosion of the surface was often very extensive. Add
to this the subsequent erosion and obscuring of the structure by various
agencies, and some faint idea may be had of the difficulty of obtaining
a sufficient number of facts for safe generalization in a single rapid trip
through the region. The ideas which have been here presented have, how-
ever, been rendered possible by the peculiar and very fortunate course
chosen by Captain Jones, which permitted a more extensive view of the
district than is often obtained in a single season by exploring-parties.
Several lengthy chapters might easily be filled with results derived
from the proper study of notes and collections; but justice to other parts
of the report, treating of subjects of equal interest and importance, for-
bids the expenditure of more time and space upon this review. A few
brief remarks upon the results of crater-eruption will be all that can be
given at present.
18S RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
CRATER-ERUPTIONS.
A tracing of the lines of trend of the remnants of the extinct volcanic
cones would scarcely represent the true positions of the ancient fissures
which have just been hastily considered. Taken together, and in con-
nection with the general history of the volcanic action, it may be said
that the phenomena of crater-eruption were of more recent date than
the fissure-ejections; but it may be doubted whether all of the products
of the cones have been deposited subsequently to those of the extended
fissures. In other words, the crater-period, as We may call it, is chro-
nologically later than the fissure-period; but active volcanic cones may
have existed to a certain extent during the earlier period also. It has
become a custom with some to refer every high peak in the volcanic
district to the category of extinct craters, often with little or no regard
to propriety; and I cannot believe that there have been as many such
centers of emission in the region visited by our party as have been cur-
rently reported from that section. In fact, the excessive erosion to
which these rocks have been subjected since their ejection from the vol-
canic vents has so obliterated the original craters that it would be
very unwise, in many instances, to attempt their ideal reconstruction
or restoration without the closest study. “Sailor” Peak, and many
other similar high points in the Sierra Shoshone, numbers of which are
in view from the elevations upon either side of the Stinking water Pass,
have very probably formed parts of the rim of one or more craters; but
it would be the height of imprudence to affirm that there had existed in
this section a definite number of craters, or to attempt to define their
limits, or even to determine their relative ages, without devoting a very
great amount of time and labor to the investigation of these special
subjects. o
There can be no possible gain in reporting, as fact, mere opinions
based upon a cursory review of a district teeming with an overwhelm-
ing amount of material for study, which it will require years of patient
research to develop into anything like perfect system. The present
writer has had some slight opportunities of observation of recent but
practically extinct craters, while twice passing quite near to several of
the principal islands of the Windward group, including Guadaloupe,
Dominica, Martinique, and the Barbadoes; also, by two passing visits
to the island of Saint Thomas. It is true that there are important
points of difference between the phenomena of these widely-separated
and non-synchronous accumulations; but it does not seem to 1me that
these are sufficient to account for all the differences in structure, if the
ancient craters in Northwestern Wyoming were as numerous as some
travelers have imagined. One prominent objection, to my mind, is the
fact that in many of these so-called crater-peaks, not only the lavas, but
the conglomerate and tufaceous layers, are resting in a horizontal posi-
tion ; and that their continuity in this manner can be often traced to
some distance in the surrounding elevations. Besides this, the evidence
which should exist in the form of broader valleys, or, at least, of uneroded
expansions within the supposed rims, is too often lacking.
Still, there is scarcely room for doubt that important craters have
existed in this region; and it is highly probable that the Sailor Peak
and its neighboring elevations have once formed portions of one of these,
subsequently to the last fissure-flow in that particular section. Near
the head of the Yellowstone Lake, upon the eastern and southeastern
boundaries, there are also indications of cones; but it is impossible to
determine their true limits from a passing view.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 189
The material of the crater-outflows of lava appears to include members
of both the felspathic and augitic series; but it cannot be positively
affirmed that some well-exposed sections (particularly in the lower end of
the Grand Caſion of the Yellowstone and in the magnificent gorge of Gar-
diner's River, East Branch, below the high falls) do not exhibit inter-
mingled crater and fissure flows. Obsidian of several varieties is quite
Common ; in some cases directly overlying the granites, and forming thick
layers, which have been denuded so as to leave prominent dark-colored
buttes. This is not uncommonly spherulitic, sometimes a compact vol-
canic glass, splitting into flaky pieces, quite generally porphyritic, and
often possessing a more or less perfect columnar structure, varying in
Color from reddish-brown to dark-brown and black.
Very regretfully, this subject is thus summarily disposed of, although
its further elucidation is but a question of time devoted to the elabora-
tion of material in the possession of the writer. Should future leisure
allow of the completion of this work, it will be given to the public
through the medium of periodical publications. It is necessary now to
pass to the consideration of topics of more general interest by reason
of their present significance.
TEHERMIAL SPRINGS.
In order of time, the hot springs were preceded by geyser-action ; the
former being the representatives of a later stage in the gradual dying-
Out of the subterranean heat. It will be more Convenient to reverse this
order in the examination of their effects; leaving the rather special
pnenomena of the geysers to be described in chapter XIII, which will
be largely devoted to them. In the remaining pages of the present
chapter, and in chapters X, XI, and XII, descriptions of the principal
thermal springs will be given, including also such cold springs as are
the undoubted relics of formerly heated basins or channels. This clas-
sification of the results is founded upon extremes of activity, between
which it is possible to discover a complete gradation, so that no well-
marked line of distinction can be drawn to separate the two main divis-
ions.
The hot springs represent merely the quiescent state of the active gey-
sers; and many of the latter, when dormant, present no features which
will enable one to determine their real character. It is, therefore, not
certain that a few of the bowls,” which have been described heretofore
and in this place as hot springs, are not in reality geysers, which have
never been observed in action. In most cases, llowever, as Will appear
in the sequel, the important dormant geysers can be distinguished from
the non-eruptive bowls by the marks left upon the surface of the rim by
the falling water. Where convincing proof of this nature exists, the
bowls have been referred to the second division ; and they Will be consid-
ered in another chapter.
For purposes of description, it will be advisable to deviate somewhat
from the general plan of this report, and take up the groups of thermal
springs in local order without special reference to their phenomena or the
composition of their products. This method possesses more of System
than would at first appear, because each locality is marked by the exist-
ence of effects which are in a measure peculiar to itself. We may begin,
* The term bowl will be used in this work to designate generally the basins or Craters
of the hot springs and geysers, regardless of form or size; the term basin being
restricted to its more general use, as applied to a topographical division; thus, river-
basin, geyser-basin, &c.
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190 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING,
then, with the first group which was met after our entrance into the
National Park, viz, the Salses and solfataras in the vicinity of Turbid
Lake, reserving the Bath Springs below Camp Brown for some consid-
eration at the close of this chapter.
I.—TURBID LAIOE GROUP.
Three visits were made by myself to this locality, including one night-
camp near the shore of the lake, (see chapter I, special trip No. V.) The
greater part of the data here recorded were gathered on the occasion of
the second visit, made the day of the passage of the main party through
this section, on the way to Camp 38, at the outlet of Yellowstone Lake.
The first near view of this group of springs was had on the previous
day, when I reached the spot at 11 a. m., but was able to gain but little
information, as I was obliged to return immediately to Camp 37. At this
time, little or no vapor was rising from the surface; but there was every
indication that ebullition had taken place within a few hours; for the
ground was wet in many places around the bowls upon the lee side, and
the inner surfaces of the bowls themselves above the then water-level
were also quite Wet.
On the following day, (August 4,) I reached the locality at 8.45 a. m.
When two miles distant from the spot, the odor of sulphureted hydro-
gen from the steaming sulphur was plainly perceptible. When I arrived,
there was much vapor arising from Various points southeast of the small
lake, and the odor was very strong. Near the beach, there was a rather
large, deep, saucer-shaped hole, containing muddy Water in a vio-
lent state of ebullition, (a, Fig. 27.) In Fig 27, b represents another
spring not far distant, with a deep bowl somewhat longer than wide; the
sides being nearly vertical. This also contained boiling, muddy Water,
which produced a rumbling sound beneath the surface at one side, as if
a subterranean chamber existed at that point. Occasionally mud was
spurted to a height of several inches; but in neither a nor b did any
overflowing take place, though recent marks of such a flow were evident
upon the side nearest to the lake. Little sulphur was apparent; but a
vapor-vent at one side of b, not then in action, was lined with an incrus-
tation of this substance. c is a cold spring, the largest and most power-
ful in the group, boiling up fiercely in the midst of the clear cold water of
GameTrail Creek. This is evidently a sulphur-spring, as the water of the
stream becomes suddenly somewhat milky at this point, and the gravelly
bottom is distinctly colored by it. The creek then flows along the edge of
d, an area of small, raised vents, resembling diminutive volcanic craters.
These have been formed by the breaking-through of the incrusted
surface at points subjected to tension by the escaping vapors; and
the area covered by them is an excellent model of a region of volcanic
activity. Volumes of dense white vapor arose from these numerous
orifices, and became condensed in part against the face of a ledge a
short distance back from the stream. The whole area was underlaid
by boiling and sputtering sulphurous water; and along the line of the
creek, upon the edges and within it, there were both cold and hot
bubbling springs, some of which were quite clear, others milky from
suspended sulphur. In spots, where the springs were somewhat in-
active and covered by nearly stagnant water, there has been precipitated
a black deposit of ferrous sulphide, (Fe S,) which was doubtless formed
by the slow action of the sulphur upon the iron set free by the decom-
position of the vegetable matter which has there accumulated. A
delicate grega:Cryptogam was found growing upon sticks in the hot
e a 9
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a, b, c, d, e, springs described in the text. t
e National Park.









RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 191
sulphur region d. According to Dr. Eſeizman's observations, the tem-
perature of the hot springs of the Turbid Lake group varied from 1802
F. to 1920 F.
Much drift-wood has been brought down by the stream at times, and
lodged near the area of activity. Wherever this has been soaked by
the Sulphurous water, it has changed color, at first assuming a yellow
tint, then gradually becoming brown, dark-brown, and finally black.
The spring-deposits about this wood also become blackened to a great
extent. Indescribable clusters of crystals, needle-shaped, of pure
sulphur, are formed by condensation upon the roofs of the miniature
caverns beneath the crust, where the heat is retained for a great length
of time. Fragments of scoriaceous material, composed of Sulphur and
other ingredients, with admixtures of various impurities, are scattered
over the surface, appearing as if burst from the crust by the sudden
increase of tension attendant upon the periodical eruptions.
There are good reasons for placing many of this group in the list of
active geysers; but inasmuch as their projectile effects are not great, it
has been thought best to include them among the hot springs. Few,
if any of them, are entitled to be classed as perfectly clear springs;
there being in this locality two principal kinds of turbidity, the muddy
and the milky. The mud bowls, or the salses, are situated at some
distance from the exposures of igneous rocks, with thick argillaceous
deposits at the surface, through which the waters must pass in their
exit to the outer air. The sulphur-vents, or solfataras, on the other
hand, are, in the vicinity of the ancient spring-deposits, derived from
volcanic rocks of the trachytic group, from which they may obtain the
sulphur, alum, and other substances which they have deposited by
sublimation, condensation, and evaporation in such large quantities.
Concerning the periodicity of the action of this group of springs, a
few facts only have been collected; but I was fortunate enough to obtain
some data upon which to found an opinion. About 3 p. m. Of the 2d
day of August, I first caught sight of Turbid Lake from a high point
north of the Stinking water Pass, two thousand feet above the level of
the springs. At that time, no vapor was rising from this spot, although
the locality of the concealed Steamboat Springs, which emit much less
vapor at any time than the Turbid Lake group when in action, could
be plainly discerned by the vapor. On the following day, as previously
stated, I reached this locality at 11 a. m., and discovered that an erup.
tion had occurred before my arrival. Upon the way, at least two hours
before reaching the place, I clearly distinguished volumes of White
vapor issuing from the direction of the group, and then the view was
obstructed by timber for the remainder of the distance. On the 4th of
August, I found the springs in action at 8.45 a. m., and the emission of
vapor had almost ceased at 10 a. m.
Returning to spend the night in this vicinity on the 6th of the same
month, no notable quantity of vapor was visible, but during the night
a heavy mist shut out the springs from view. When this had been dis-
sipated by the sun, I again saw the springs in vigorous action before 6
a.m. From these observations, it seems reasonable to conclude that
the increase of activity, or the eruptive throe, takes place in all the
springs of this group quite regularly, beginning before 6 a.m. each day
and continuing for at least four hours without interruption. It is pos-
sible that another period of activity may occur at night; but this I
regard as exceedingly doubtful for good reasons, which it will be impossi-
ble to give here.
192 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTH WESTERN W YOMING.
II. —STEAMI3O AT SIPRINGS AND OTIIERS.
The Steamboat or Puffing Spring and its associates are situated on
the bank of the Yellowstone Lake, west of South from Turbid Lake, as
shown in Fig. 27. At c, same figure, are represented several stagnant
lakes, with a number of hot and cold springs near Yellowstone Lake,
which are apparently dying out, there being few signs of recent activ-
ity. These may be included in this second section, on account of their
close similarity, except in intensity, to the Steam Point and Steamboat
groups. At Steam Point, close to the lake-shore, there is a prominent
spring, which emits much vapor, but it does not differ in any marked
manner from the Steamboat group, either in its plenomena or in the
character of its deposits. Eastward from the point a short distance,
another small collection of evanescent solfataras occurs, which, in real-
ity, belongs to the Steamboat group, from which these springs are sepa-
rated by a minor ridge running down to the lake shore, composed
mainly of ancient spring-deposits.
Passing over this ridge, the trail runs above several more springs, one
of which is the Steamboat, appropriately named from the peculiar sound
emitted, which closely resembles the puffing produced by the escape of
steam from the cylinders of a high-pressure steamer. This is caused by
the passage of the vapor from a subterranean chamber, under pressure,
through a narrow orifice in the hard rock. A few rods farther up the
lake, sulphurous vapor issues from a cavern, in conglomerate, with a
seething noise, as it comes in contact with the waves, not unlike the
sound produced by the escape of steam from the cylinders of a locomo-
tive moving slowly. For purposes of distinction, this will here be called
the Locomotive Spring. There are two or three other prominent springs
at this point, one in nearly the same vertical position as the Steamboat,
but with a larger orifice.
A general section of the rocks in this vicinity, given in Fig. 28,
will render more clear the explanation of the facts here observed, and
the probable relations of these springs to those of the Turbid Lake
group.
An examination of this section will show that the origin of the Salses
and the solfataras is probably not distinct, irut that the nature of the
surface-rocks has very much to do with the character of the Spring-
deposits. In the Turbid Lake solſataras, silica is not a very common
ingredient, but it is found in large quantities in connection with the ori-
fices of those springs which pass wholly or partly through the thick
mass of ancient hot-spring formations here overlying the lower con-
glomerate. The Salses a and b encounter this substance also in the
beach-deposits, K, which there forin the surface-beds; but the various
deposits of these springs are very much mixed on account of the con-
stant stirring of the mud by elullition.
The recent deposits of the Steam boat group contain soda, Sulphur,
iron, silica, and alumina. Carbonic acid is given off from the dried mud
of H, when treated with chlorhydric acid, but not in large quantity.
Sulphur is less common than in the solſataric area (d) of Turbid Lake,
but it is still a characteristic ingredient of the clearer springs. Salses,
properly so called, are not present, except near Steam Point, as the
water in the simmerers bubbles up through the siliceous mud so gently
as not to render it turbid in most cases.
It will be noticed that the present open cavern from which the Loco-
motive sends out its vapor was probably at one time subterraneous, like
the underground swell of the Steamboat channel in the conglomerate.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 193
The action of the waves upon the shore is gradually converting the
Steamboat and other springs into Locomotives, and the Locomotive into
a boiling spring in the midst of the lake, several of which already exist
at different points. •º
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Sufficient data for arriving at a satisfactory conclusion in regard to
the periodicity of the action of these Springs are wanting at present.
Some observations have led me to surmise that the emission of vapor is
more constant or of more frequent recurrence than in the case of the
Turbid Lake group. At any rate, there is no good reason for believing
that any underground connection exists between the two groups. It
seems probable, also, that while the Steamboat and Steam Point
Springs may be subject to nearly the same influences, the group repre-
sented at e, Fig. 27, is not connected with either. This view is little
FI. EX. 285-–13 *








194 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
better than a mere opinion, however; though it may be stated that the
members of the latter group were not observed in vigorous action at
the time of my visit.
III.-G-REEN SPRING AND SULPHUR (!) HILLS.
Less than two miles beyond Turbid Lake our trail crossed Pelican
Creek at a point where there occurs upon the right bank an extensive
bed of hematite, (Fe, Os,) of the variety eisenrahm, or red ochre, which
is evidently the result of deposits from hot chalybeate springs. An
iron-Spring of cold Water empties its contents into Pelican Creek at the
crossing, but little or no precipitation takes place. The Indians use
the material as a paint, and much of it has been taken from the spot,
although our discovery of it was new to the Whites.
At the farther edge of this deposit is a magnificent hot, sulphur-
spring, the stream from which sinks after running a few rods, then
passes over the surface again along the edge of the ore-bed, finally dis-
charging into Pelican Creek. The temperature of the water, according
to Dr. Heizman, is 1049 F. Large quantities of a slimy, green Cryp-
togam grow in the bed of the stream, which suggests the name Green
Spring proposed at the head of this section. The study of this locality
bids fair to prove of great interest; for there are developments here
which cannot be elsewhere observed over the whole region. The hot
springs in the Valley of Pelican Creek, near the junction of the Three
Forks and above, upon the main branch, possess a certain degree of
interest, but they are removed from the region of great activity, and
may be included in the present division on account of their minor
importance.
The mineral products of Green Spring are mainly iron, sulphur, and
silica; the iron being apparently of small moment, so far as the accumu-
lation of a ferruginous deposit is concerned. There is, however, much
ground for the belief that this substance is of great importance in Con-
nection with the growth of the above-mentioned Cryptogam. Nowhere
near any of the hot springs of this region was there found such an
extensive ferruginous deposit as at this place; and the deep-green color
of this vegetation was here especially noticeable, as well as the luxuri-
ance of its growth. In many other cases, the amount and exuberance
of similar cryptogamic forms was remarkably proportioned to the
Quantity of iron present in the waters. No opportunity is here afforded
for the production of crystals of sulphur by the process of sublimation;
there being scarcely any vapor produced. The actual amount of sul-
phur accumulated is not large, though a small quantity is carried off in
the water of the stream. A measurable portion is precipitated as milk
of sulphur, and retained in hollows in the rough bed of the more quiet
portions of the stream. Silica is a common ingredient, forming a beau-
tiful stalagmitic arrangement by gradual accretion along the bottom
and the sides of the outlet, affording an excellent attachment for the
slimy vegetation.
Sulphur Hills is the quite inappropriate title which has been given to
a very prominent ancient group of hot Springs not characterized
particularly by the presence of that mineral. At this point, there are
three deep basins or hollows between ridges of the old spring-deposits,
in each of which there is a small group of Springs.
From the west side, a powerful stream has issued at one time, drain-
ing off the surplus water by a series of interesting cascades. Through-
out the whole section between this spot and Green Spring, there has
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 195.
been, during a recent geological period, and probably within the histori-
cal epoch, a degree of activity greater than is at present manifested
anywhere in this vicinity; and yet it does not appear that the existing
phenomena are materially less than they have been for very many years.
Small springs at the very bottom of these pits have formed about their ori-
fices deposits which are clearly the result of long-continued action, while
there is unmistakable proof that the present level of some is from
tWenty to fifty feet, at least, below the outlet of comparatively modern
ponds, which once occupied the basins. The present outlets are largely
of later origin. The history of the accumulation of the extensive
deposits, here forming a mass several square miles in area and fully
two hundred feet in thickness, is not to be read in an hour; but it will
require the patient labor of years to unravel the intricate problems
which arise even while viewing hastily a single section like this, which
is but one of the lesser of a hundred of this nature. This deposit repre-
sents, without a doubt, a period subsequent to the culmination of the cra-
ter-eruption, when the Yellowstone Lake extended to a much higher level
than now, and the formation may have begun within its waters, after-
ward becoming a portion of the shore-line. From this and other observa-
tions, it cannot be disputed that the early hot-spring action Was upon a
scale of almost unimaginable magnitude. The mind utterly fails to
grasp the reality; and the existing demonstrations, wonderful as they
are in many places, We must believe are the mere shadows of the past.
The ridges which now form the rims of the basins are made up of
quartzites, conglomerates, and other layers, most of which are mainly
composed of materials originally deposited from hot springs. The snow-
white aspect of the hills, which enables them to be distinguished from
a great distance, is due to the silica which forms the great bulk of the
deposit. Sulphur exists in broken masses, mostly amorphous, with some
sublimated crystals about the active springs. Occasional brick-red
spots are visible, caused by the presence of iron. The mass of the sili-
ceous deposit is a fairly compacted white rock, fine grained, and much
jointed ; but there is much of a very beautiful tough quartzite, with a
conchoidal fracture, and having a pearly luster, or it is sometimes
iridescent in a favorable light.
Between 12 m. and 1 p.m. of the 4th of August, a heavy cloud of
vapor was observed ascending from this spot while passing along Our
main trail one mile distant. I visited the locality about two o'clock in
the afternoon of August 7th, and also had several other good opportun-
ities of observing such emission if it had occurred, but not near Imidday.
Had I not seen it, I could not have believed it possible for such a quan-
tity to be emitted by such a small number of apparently unimportant
springs as were afterward found to occupy this section. Judging from
this accidental circumstance, it may not be unfair to Suppose that these
fumeroles are periodically agitated, though notbing can be predicated
concerning the regularity of the action, nor the duration of the quiescent
intervals. It may also, with some degree of propriety, be inferred that
this group is distinct from those previously discussed.
The springs before mentioned, which are situated in the upper portion
of the flood-plain of Pelican Creek, near the junction of its forks, and
above, are of comparatively little importance, although there are several
small fumeroles among them. Like many others of their class, they are
noticeable on account of the sulphur which they are the means of depos-
iting about their orifices and distributing through the agency of their
overflow. Not infrequently these springs are directly in the bed of the
stream, or in the midst of sluggish pools near its edges. Two visits to
196 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
this locality, about noon on the 7th of August, and at 8 a. m., August
13th, showed that differences in intensity are not lacking ; for sev-
eral fair-sized orifices, which were not seen on the occasion of the first
trip, were observed in action on the 13th, some time before reaching the
spot. In connection With this statement, it must, however, be remem-
bered that the difference in the temperature of the atmosphere at S a. m.
and 12 m. is sufficient to account in part for the difference in the quan-
tity of the vapor, and, perhaps, for the whole.
IV.—HOT SPRINGS OF YELLOWSTONE RIVER, BETWEEN THE LAKE
AND THE GREAT FALLS.
In passing down the Yellowstone River Valley from the lake, two
prominent groups of hot springs are met before reaching the rapids
above the falls. Most of these are upon the left bank of the river, how-
ever, and they were, therefore, not specially examined. Somewhat
detailed descriptions of the principal members upon that side of the stream
are given by Dr. Hayden and Dr. Peale in their reports for 1871, under
the heads of mud-volcanoes and crater-hills. * Both of these groups are
highly interesting and important. They doubtless represent a former
more vigorous condition of the Sulphur Hills group. In each case im-
mense deposits have been accumulated, and many springs have ceased
their action; but, in the Yellowstone River groups, many powerful, clear
and turbid springs and Salses are still active. From the right bank, all
this may be learned, as well as the fact that sulphur, iron, and silica form
portions of the accumulated masses, giving the characteristic yellow, red,
and white colors to Various portions of the hills. Dense clouds of vapor
may be seen issuing from these localities at certain hours, and the thump-
ing noise produced by the throbbings of the agitated mud of the salses
may be distinguished without difficulty at a considerable distance. Sul-
phydric acid gas (H2S) is evolved in notable quantity.
There are several mud-bowls and Seething springs upon the right
bank of the river, directly opposite the upper group, or the mud-volca-
noes, six miles below the outlet of the lake. One of these, near the
water’s edge, strongly reminds one of a large kettle of boiling soap; the
resemblance to this uninviting substance being increased by the pe-
culiar streaky appearance, arising from the imperfect mixture of the
yellow sulphurous, the red or pink ferruginous, and the blue and green-
ish argillaceous ingredients of the mud. The mud-paste is in a con-
stant state of Sputtering ebullition, and it is occasionally spurted with
force to a height of two or three feet. There were some signs about the
rim of the bowl of recent more vigorous action, but nothing to indicate a
degree of activity nearly approaching the energy displayed by some of
the mud-volcanoes across the river.
Both the mud-volcanoes and the Crater-hills occupy positions appar-
ently nearly identical in horizon stratigraphically with the Turbid
Lake and Steamboat groups, and the Variation in actual level is very
slight. The exposed formations in the vicinity of the river-groups are
clays and sands of lacustrine origin in all respects similar to the depos-
its along the present lake-shore near Steam Point, in the valley of Pel-
ican Creek, and elsewhere. Overlying these are layers of tufaceous and
other volcanic material, many of which bear traces of more or less Com-
plete and regular re-arrangement of their component particles by the
* Geological Survey of Montana and Adjacent Territory, 1871. Washington, Gov-
ernment Printing-Office, 1872.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 197
waters of the ancient lake. In some places, above the looser and more
finely-comminuted sands and clays, or intermingled with them, occur
Occasional beds of the more compact trachytic lavas. In the immediata
vicinity of these springs, the clays and the trachytes predominate,
Which fact is sufficient to account for the emergence of the springs, for
the most part, as salses and solfataras.
W.—FOREST GROUP.
The foregoing general remarks will apply almost equally as well to
an extensive group of thermal springs near the verge of the right wall
of the Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone, and the few following details
concerning this collection will be found to correspond in most essential
points with the descriptions of the two preceding groups which have
been given by Dr. Peale and other authorities. This cluster may be
appropriately styled the Forest Group, being so nearly surrounded by
growing timber that it might easily be overlooked by the passing trav-
eler, or regarded as a section devoid of special interest.
This group comprises representatives of all the great classes of
thermal springs, including also a variety of cold springs of varying
composition and temperature; while, as a whole, the locality in which
they occur may be said to belong to one of the latest stages of
thermal intensity. There are some spots in which the activity is
much greater than in others, and a considerable stream of water passes
off at certain intervals, as the result of the accumulated discharge
from a number of the clear and more vigorous bowls. The majority
of the active springs, including the Salses and Solfataras, emerge
through the enormous accumulations of ancient bot-spring deposits,
which here almost completely obscure the underlying beds of volca-
nic origin. Not infrequently, two or more salses are seen in close prox-
imity to each other, apparently receiving their supply of heat from the
same source, and yet scarcely any two of these agree exactly in all their
manifestations. One feature of several of these mud-bowls is espe-
cially noticeable, i. e., the thickness or toughness of the mud, which
causes it to be arranged in the form of low cones about the centers of
ebuilition. This represents the stage of transition from the Salse proper
to the mud-puff, but none of the latter were observed in the basin occu-
pied by the Forest Group. This collection of springs is distributed over
an area of considerable extent, and also includes properly several im-
portant bowls which are located upon the walls of the Grand Cañon
itself, mostly near the bottom of the chasm, not far from the edges of
the stream. The majority of the springs, however, are located upon a
broad, barren flat of dried mud, sand, and fine gravel, which nearly
encircles a short ridge of ancient hot-spring deposits, rising to a height
of about two hundred feet above the general surface. It was extremely
difficult to make out a satisfactory section of these deposits on account
of their great variety and the obliteration of structure caused by Wash-
ing and weathering. Besides many of the more connon varieties of
the hot-spring formations, the following-described specimens of rocks
were collected from this locality:
1. Rock at the top of the ridge, a fine-grained, yellowish-white Sand
rock; or, rather, a fine gravel-rock, or conglomerate, apparently formed
from material deposited originally by hot Springs.
2. White siliceous rock, which gives character to the hill; also, a hot-
spring deposit.
3. Lying, apparently, between layers of No. 2, occur bands of reddish
198 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
and light-yellow sandstones, probably re-arranged by the waters of the
ancient lake subsequent to formation by hot Springs.
4. Lower (?) than the preceding, hard, slabby, fine-grained sand-
stone, which also appears to be composed of hot-spring material.
5. A peculiar hard rock, showing a thin layery structure, occurs in
both thick and thin layers.
6. In position probably above No. 5, a conglomerate made up of a
rock like No. 5, inclosing fragments of a kind of Spring quartzite.
7. Crystalline deposit from a spring toward the eastern base of the
ridge. This hot spring is in every respect (except the presence of very
little iron) like the Green Spring, on Pelican Creek, before referred to.
(Group III, this chapter.)
8. A hard, white, slabby rock, found below in the Wash, but occurring
in situ (?) below the others.
About two-thirds of the distance up the hill fragments of a tufaceous
layer were seen, but its position with respect to the above could not be
determined.
On the flat below the hill, in the mud washed from the springs, there
were imbedded logs of softened wood, and the standing trees for a little
distance showed signs of a former flood in the Whitening of their trunks
at the base. The flat was covered (August 8) with magnificent exam-
ples of mud-cracks on a large Scale.
As might be anticipated, these Ingredients of the accumulations now
in progress in this locality are by no means characteristic, but there is
scarcely an element which is found in other springs that is not here
represented in one or umore springs. Sulphur is not formed at present
in great quantity, although there are several quite active solfataras;
but that this substance has at one time been abundantly produced here
is proven by the prevalence of the yellow colors in the walls of the
caſion and in the adjacent bills. Silica is abundant in the cliffs, and it is
still the principal product of several of the most interesting bowls. One
of these in particular is worthy of note. It emerges from the rocks
within a very few feet of the river's edge, below the lower fall, hun-
dreds of feet below the level of the majority of the members of the
Forest group. Its action is more or less regular, but intermittent, and
the water is occasionally ejected to the height of a foot or more above
the chimneyed orifices. These chimneys, as I have called them, are
small tubular eminences through which the fluid is spouted, and they
have been steadily built up by slow accretions from the evaporation of
the water as it has fallen down about the original orifice in the rocks.
In this case the chimneys are less than a foot in height, tapering from
a breadth of six inches at the base to a diameter of only two or three
inclues at the apex.
It is noticeable that iron is less conspicuous in the recent as well as.
the ancient spring deposits in this section, although there would seem
to be no reason for its scarcity. This may, perhaps, be explained in a
measure by the preponderance of other ingredients which give color
to the formations, or possibly by the production of salts of iron not
common in other localities.
WI.--WAYSIDE GROUP AND ISOLATED SPRINGS.
This name is here proposed for a number of springs of considerable.
interest situated on the banks of Orange Creek, near where it is crossed
by the trail of Captain Jones's party. The path at this point, after
crossing the stream, follows it upward for a short distance along the
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 199
base of a steep hill, and the springs lie upon both sides of the creek
quite near the edge of the Water, two or three emerging almost directly
in the trail. Unfortunately, a mere cursory glance was all that could
be obtained, on account of other duties, but enough was learned to
prove that this group is well worthy of careful investigation. Sulphur
and iron appear to be the prominent products, though it is probable
that Silica also plays an important part. As a rule these springs are
clear, and they mainly emerge from the rocks, leading to the formation
of Small cavernous openings, which render more audible and resonant
the puffing of the vapor as it escapes under pressure. One bowl thus
Simulates the noise produced at the Steamboat Spring, on Yellowstone
Lake, but in a lesser degree. The Orange-colored precipitate covering
the rocky bed of the stream, from which its name has arisen, is a spring
deposit of ferric oxide. This does not seem to originate wholly at this
point, but it is probably formed also by other springs, hot or cold,
farther up the stream.
Isolated springs.-A few scattered bowls occur over the region south
and east of the great Gardiner's River Group, to be described in the fol-
lowing chapter, but a mere statement of their positions is all that is nec-
essary, for nothing is known concerning them which serves to separate
them in their features from the groups already mentioned. A few of
these may be found at greater or less intervals along the banks of the
Yellowstone River below the falls, and, less frequently, in the valley of
the East Fork and upon its tributaries. In most cases, these isolated
Springs are the remnants of more active scenes in the past, and occa-
sionally they serve to mark the location of a once very vigorous group,
even including one or more geysers, as in the valley of the East Fork.
WII.- BATH-SPRING NEAR CAMP BROWN.
This description is introduced here simply for the sake of convenience
in arrangement, and not because of any direct relation which it is sup-
posed to bear to any of the foregoing groups or springs. Indeed, the
Question of its relations to other similar bowls in any part of the West
is by no means an easy matter to solve. In other words, it would almost
seem that the causes of its existence are more apparent, if we consider
it as unconnected in any direct manner with the Park groups. Reserv-
ing the discussion of this subject for a more appropriate place, we will
conclude the present chapter with a description of the principal features
of this spring ; which is situated near Little Wind River, on the right
bank, about two miles northeast from the military headquarters at Camp
Brown.
This bowl is, properly speaking, an aqueous basin or pond; which
receives the contributions from several prominent orifices opening
within its borders. This pond covers an area of considerably more than
five thousand square feet, and a continuous supply of hot water is passed
off through the channel of a large stream, which connects the springs
with the Little Wind River not very far distant. The water is usually
clear enough to enable the bottom of the pond to be seen at a depth of
five feet or more, but there seem always to be held in suspension, mi-
nute particles of a very light-yellow precipitate, which also covers the
bottom, and which renders the water turbid when disturbed by the feet
of the bathers. The depth of the pond near the center is very great, and
one very soon passes beyond one's depth in moving from the edge of the
basin.
Carbonic acid is given off abundantly, and Dr. Heizmann finds that cal-
200 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
cic hypochlorite (chloride of lime) is present in considerable quantity.
The roots of grasses, and such other vegetation as is found in the imme-
diate vicinity of the water, are completely bleached by the agency of
the latter. It is a little remarkable, in consideration of the fact that gyp-
sum is so abundant in the neighborhood of this spring, that Sulphur and
its acids are present only in very small proportions. The temperature,
which varies slightly at times, is but a few degrees above “blood heat,’
(980 F.,) but it differs from the ordinary day-temperature in the summer
sufficiently to cause a feeling of discomfort When first entering the water
to bathe. The effects produced are thought to be very beneficial, and
the inhabitants of this section consider it especially valuable in the
treatment of affections of the skin. The members of Washakie's band
of Shoshones, regard it as useful in alleviating the distressing features
of syphilis, a disease which is quite generally prevalent among Indian
tribes.
This spring emerges at a point where the great gypsum-fold, as it
may be termed, has been denuded for the passage of the Little Wind
River across it. Without more extended study it is extremely difficult
to account for its occurrence without supposing it to be in some way
connected with the formation of the fold itself. There are no rocks of
volcanic origin within a radius of more than forty miles, so far as is
known, and no hot spring, within the volcanic district, is known to
exist nearer than one hundred miles from this point.
The next chapter will be devoted to the description of the mammoth
Springs of Gardiner's River, the most important collection of this nature
now known in any part of the world.
C H A P T E R X.
THERMO-DYNAMICS, CONTINUED–DESCRIPTION OF HOT SPRINGS, CON-
TINUEL).
VIII.--White Mountain Hot Springs of Gardiner's River—First seven terraces—Eighth
terrace—Ninth terrace and beyond.
While the main division of Captain Jones's party was encamped above
the mouth of the East Fork of the Yellowstone River, (Camp 41,) a
small corps was detached for the purpose of examining the locality
referred to at the close of the last chapter, which lies some twenty
miles distant to the West of north. At this point there exists the most
remarkable development of thermal springs within the limits of the
National Park, and certainly there is not its equal in grandeur or in
importance elsewhere on our globe, if we may judge from all the
accounts of similar manifestations in other parts of the World which
have heretofore been published.
VIII.—MAMMOTH (WHITE MOUNTAIN) HOT SPRINGS, GARD INER'S
IRIVEIR.
This group lies near the northwest corner of the Yellowstone Park
reservation, forming a part of the bluffs above the stream, on the left
bank of Gardiner’s fiver, a short distance below the entrance of the
West Branch. The springs are situated upon a series of benches of
unequal dimensions, arranged rather irregularly after the manner of
A
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 201
steps. These benches, of which there are no less than fourteen, with
active Springs, besides a number more ancient and more elevated, are
not Ordinary terraces such as those of the Terrace Epoch, but, as we
shall presently see, they are almost entirely made up of deposits from
extinct and active hot springs.
. The first seven steps contain the majority of the largest and most
Vigorous springs now in action. The upper tiers of benches shed their
drainage, for the most part, down upon and across the tops of the lower
Series, but the greater part spreads out, when it reaches the seventh
terrace, so as to pass over the edge in a thin sheet. This is caused by
the very slight slope of the surface, and it has resulted in the very
peculiar conformation of the bluffs, which is one of the most striking
features of this group. The section shown in Fig. 29 will serve to
iſſy, BAs44.7
| º º
|||ſiº
|linº
|m.
º
|N
|||ſiſſilliºn,
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||}|, |**N
7 AºA CA/YZZ" CA A'Aº O/V/A-Z APO CAS J U Aſ A SS/C
FIG. 29.—Ideal section, across Gardiner’s River at White Mountain Hot Springs.
elucidate the structure which has influenced the production of the gen-
eral features, while the special peculiarities alluded to are diagram-
matically represented by Fig. 30. We need not here enlarge upon
the causes of the arrangement of the rock-masses which underlie this
area, but we will proceed at once to the description of the springs and
the phenomena attendant upon their action.
DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST SEVEN TERRACEs.
On the flat below the main tier of terraces there are a number of scat-
tered springs, which do not essentially differ from those at a higher level,
and several prominent chimneys mark the positions of former geysers.
One of the latter, more than forty feet in height, with a base at least
twenty feet in diameter, is the most striking feature to be observed on
this plain. From its peculiar shape it received the not inappropriate
name of Liberty Cap from members of Dr. Hayden’s party of 1871. Be-
sides the geyser chimneys there are also a few dry bowls and fissures, and
between this point and the river below there are several active springs
of some importance. -
Bathing-pools.-Rising to a height of nearly two hundred feet above
this flat is the main tier of steps before mentioned, which is fringed with
a most remarkable arrangement of shallow pools or bathing-tubs, as
they have been styled. This peculiarity cannot be described with any
degree of satisfaction to the writer, for it is so unlike any other work of
nature or art that it is impossible to convey an adequate idea of its Won-
drous grandeur or of the almost endless variety of the strange products
formed by the action of well-known forces. The study of the playsi-
cal and chemical changes here in progress is intensely interesting, and *


202 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
rich rewards are certainly awaiting those who may bereafter be enabled
to labor in this new field for investigation. Some idea of the structure
of this unique formation may be gained from an examination of the dia-
rº- *Wººd,
-lºgºff; jº *} łł
wº i 㺠§: i: sº
a rºw. ''{{{#ſº **~~
gif|| lſº ;|->| | | *. tº
-º-º-º: | 1' ºrº-
- *E--> —s:-- º Vºs.
-- ~~
→ºmini
===siº
-*-
Eº-º-
FIG. 30.—Diagrammatic view of “bath-tub” formation on the bluff at White Moun-
tain Hot Springs, Gardiner's River.
gram, (Fig. 30.) A careful study of these pools has led me to believe that
they are all formed originally in the same manner, whatever may be their
size or shape and without regard to their present depth. If correct in my
views, the water, which flows slowly over the surface at the top of the ter-
race, or elsewhere if the conditions are favorable, spreading out thinly,
passes off so slowly as to afford time for evaporation at the edges, and this.
is hastened by the saturation of the hot solution of calcic carbonate. Very
slowly a narrow rim is thus formed about the pool so as to hold it in as by a
dam. Once started, this process continues until the basin acquires a con-
siderable depth, provided that a steady but small supply of water is kept
up. When this supply ceases, the whole is evaporated to dryness, leav-
ing a deposit of calcic carbonate and other ingredients, the nature of
which is dependent upon the conditions under which the evaporation takes
place. In the majority of cases this residue is a fine white powder, and
it not unfrequently accumulates in large quantities, but occasionally
various crystalline and other forms of entirely new structure are found,
leading to the belief that a careful investigation will reveal much con-
cerning some unknown laws of crystallization and chemical combinations.
The process of pool-formation in all its stages may be seen in progress
wherever the conditions mentioned above are present. The outer sur-
face of the rim of each is ornamented with relief-work similar to the
scales of a fish, but more closely resembling the wave-marks commonly
found on many rocks of beach origin.
These markings are also common over the bottoms of very shallow
pools in progress, and in such cases their source is readily traced to the
action of the wind blowing over the surface of the water.
The cause of their production upon the nearly vertical Surfaces of the
walls of the tubs is not so easily deducible, perhaps, but it does not re-
quire very close attention to convince the observer that they are the







RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 203.
result of the action of the water which trickles or pours over the sides
of the cups.
The pools vary greatly in depth and in circumference, those of the
greatest dimensions being usually accompanied by the most coarse orna-
mentation, owing to the fact that they are subjected to the most rapid
and powerful action of the descending stream, thus being more abun-
dantly supplied with the ingredients held in solution by the water.
Chemical composition.—As would naturally be expected, when it is
known that the principal constituents of the solution at this point are
iron, calcium, and magnesium in the form of carbonates, the iron is
usually separated locally under specially favorable conditions, while the
upper pools, and especially the larger and coarser among them, are
built up by the deposition of magnesic carbonate mixed with calcic
Carbonate; the lower and the more shallow pools being more frequently
composed of nearly-pure calcic carbonate. This latter substance, as is
Common in hot spring districts elsewhere, usually separates as aragonite,
the greater portion, at least, of the calcite in this section being in the
form of stalactites, and, consequently, of secondary origin. A careful
determination of the mineral composition of these deposits at various
elevations would, perhaps, reveal the existence of all the varieties which
result from the combination of these three carbonates in different propor-
tions, including true dolomite and ankerite, with their intermediate
forms. This view receives support from the great variety of coloring
produced by the weathering of the ancient deposits, nearly approaching
black in some cases. Silica is also a prominent ingredient of the spring
deposits, and is sometimes obtained almost free from admixture with
the others. Sulphuric acid is also perceptibly present.
The tubs, arranged as they are upon the slope of the hill, receive their
Supply of water mainly from the overflow of the boiling springs above.
As the Water passes from one pool to another, it gradually loses heat,
each tub answering the purpose of a cooling-vat, so that bathers find
no difficulty in obtaining almost any desired temperature. This locality
has already become a favorite resort of many invalids from the surround-
ing country, particularly those suffering from cutaneous diseases, for
the treatment of which the waters are thought to be very valuable.
Products.-There is a remarkable diversity in the special products of
these numerous cooling-pans, owing to the varying conditions of tem-
perature, dimensions, and agitation of the contents. In some, especially
near the top, and in the direct course of the outflow from the springs,
the Water is constantly passing through and does not remain long
enough to become perceptibly cooled, and these are usually quite free
from precipitations or other deposits, while the external ornamentation
is often very coarse. Others more remote from the flow transmit the
water more slowly, thus allowing time for a considerable reduction of
temperature in transit, and, in such cases, a very fine white deposit of
calcic carbonate is formed over the bottom, which often attains a thick-
ness of several inches. Many pools through which the water passes
with sufficient rapidity to maintain a temperature as high as can Well
be borne by ordinary bathers, are thus encumbered by accumulations
of this substance, in which the feet sink very perceptibly. Again, there
are others in which a high temperature is maintained by a constant but
diminished flow, which furnishes the conditions essential to the produc-
tion of crystalline aggregations of the most peculiar and interesting
forms. Twigs, small stones, and other objects placed in such situations
eventually become covered with thick deposits of this nature, and the
preparation artificially of ornaments of various kinds has already been
204 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
successfully accomplished with little difficulty. The most delicate and
interesting products are, however, so frail as to render their transport
impossible, and very many of them cannot be lifted from the pools
without demolition. Owing to the presence of notable quantities of
iron, magnesia, and other ingredients, the majority of the crystalline
and colloidal products are of a dark-brown or reddish color while wet,
changing often through pink to a most delicate white upon the gradual
evaporation of the water in the pools in which they are formed. It oc-
Casionally happens that a flowing tub will become converted into an
evaporating pan by the cutting off of its supply of water by some
means. In this event, if the condensation be fairly uniform and unin-
terrupted, stalagmitic pillars, often with a beautiful honey-comb texture,
are not uncommonly built up over the bottom of the pool. Two such
Small and shallow pans occur near the edge of a small stream flowing
from the large boiling spring presently to be described, which is situated
upon a low terrace above the spring from which the main group of pools
is supplied. One of the pans was entirely dry at the time of our visit,
the bottom being covered with white pillars of the size of one's finger,
three inches in length, arranged at intervals of about two inches. By
the exercise of the greatest possible care both in collecting and in
packing, I was enabled to transport several of these pillars with no
further detriment than a reduction in length by fracture and crumbling
at the ends. In a neighboring pool, somewhat deeper and partly filled
with water, another set of these columns was observed in progress.
They were soft and rather swollen in appearance, of a dark-brown color,
and all attempts to raise them out of the “mother-liquor” proved futile.
When taken from the water at this stage, the effect is very similar to
the collapsing of a “jelly-fish” upon its removal from its natural ele-
ment, with this difference, that there is left in the hand a more abun-
dant slimy residue in the former instance.
Much of the outflow from the large spring at the top of the bluff pass-
es down over a series of quite regular cascades, which present a rather
gradual transition between the tiers of pools on one side and the gen-
eral absence of such formations upon the other side. Passing southward
beyond this stream, we come upon the dry bed of a rill which has at
Some time coursed down the ridge with a gentler fall than the main
stream. Here, again, the running water has left its mark, but in a
shape not elsewhere seen. The same feature of overlapping is noticed
that was referred to in speaking of the ornamentation of the bathing-
pools, but the form of the separate parts, with the minute ramifying
channels here observed, is peculiar to this spot. When broken out by
a hammer, small fragments are procured which remind one, in a measure,
of a bird’s wing, the delicate tracery appearing not wholly unlike the
feathers with their appendages.
Fucoidal markings.-Still farther toward the edge of the outcrop of the
Spring-deposits in this direction, over a surface which has clearly been
overflowed at times, there occur numbers of raised prominences which
bear a striking resemblance to ſucoids, for which they are sometimes
mistaken. A Close examination shows that each one of these has a
small cylindrical channel through its entire length, and this tube is
always occupied by the culm of a species of “rye-grass,” which grows
abundantly at this point. The deep longitudinal striae of this grass are
distinctly preserved in relief on the walls of the tubes. The size of the
prominences varies greatly, from that of a large pipe-stem to those which
project two inches or more above the general surface. A rude illustra-
tion of the manner in which these incrustations are built up is given in
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 205,
Fig. 31. In autumn the dead and dried culms fall flat on the ground
Without detachment from the main stem, and thus the water flows over
them without transporting them from the spot in which they have grown.
Gradually an incrustation is thus formed by deposition from the Sat-
-> * * * ... • . . ... * ...: ; z - :--> - - * * g g
…--"-_, * * - - - * - - - - - * * -* - & -
^_^ a cº & ſº ſº, ſº AºA- Zºº & X /º ..º.º." º.:*N. : : , **TN - , * -e-ST-M ſº,
• * : * ~ * * * * * * * - - - - - - - :----. F.Tº...T.T. . . . . -, -, - - - - ... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . * * = ... • * • . . . . II". - ..Tº = - . . .”. *T Tº &T&T&
• * *_. . . 4..."k . . . . :-- . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .º.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .". : *- : * * * : " : " : "... .". : " . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ... ". . . . . .”
gº tº - *, *, *, *. z - - - * * t • * & *** , , * q = - - *-- - * . : : " ". . . .” -- - , , , , . " • *-, * , * * * * * *, * * - , ", - N . . . * *... • * * * , •
& "º . ** **: * * * > . . . * * * * = * — s 6 -- * - - - - - • * • * * * ... • - * * * * = • • * * s - * ... • . . . * * * * *
*S:0}:/; %; 2 1: . ::...//.67%:.S.A. :/// G.70. </ O SE/ 7. S. . . . . . .: ... . . . . . . . . . . . .”; ; , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ; • ** * *
; : : * ~ *...*.*... ". . . . Jº...'..." . . ‘....: * *- : ... . . . . .* > *... . . . . . . . * * * * ... *, *...* * * , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . * : * ~ *- : * ~ * . . . . * * * * * * * * * *...* * * * & * t • *
* * *... . . . . . . . .”.”", *::::::: *:::::::::::::::::----------→–--→ * = g
- ::\'.2%. , • * : *
FIG. 31,–Diagrammatic section intended to show the process of formation of incrus-
tations upon “rye-grass” at White Mountain Hot Springs.
urated liquid, and the increase of the resulting prominences is limited
only by the amount of water or the time employed in their formation.
The texture of these cylindroid masses is compact, and rather uniform,
With some tendency to greater looseness of arrangement of the particles
toward the surface. A transverse fracture shows lines of imperfect ra-
diation, as though the crystalline structure had been induced by the deep
ribs which mark the surface of the grass to follow certain lines in prefer-
ence to others. -
Springs on seventh terrace.—Passing now to the summit of the ridge
or bench which we have been discussing, a large active bowl is
brought into view, which proves to be the source of a large portion
of the water which flows over the cliff into and through the bathing-
pools before described. *Just below the main outlet of this spring,
there was a beautiful pinkish deposit at one side, where it was
still wet, but beyond the force of the current. This characteristic color
is undoubtedly produced here, as in numerous other instances, by the
presence of sufficient iron in the water, as ferrous carbonate, to leave de-
posits of ferric hydrate in quiet spots by the evaporation of the carbonic
acid on exposure to the air. The spring itself, or, more properly, two
very large springs connected by a narrow and shallow Strait, are among
the most powerful and extensive of the Whole collection. Each bowl
is nearly 150 feet in one dimension, while the breadth of one is 50 feet
and that of the other nearly half its length. The boundaries of both
are very tortuous, and the edges are handsomely ornamented by a tasty
rim which projects inward some inches. This rim is the lowest of three
similar ledges, the water in the bowl having twice receded about four
inches in depth, leaving each time a rim to mark its former position.
These have been formed by the pulsation of the Water in the follow-
ing manner: Each convulsive throe of the liquid sends across to the
edges of the bowl a wave which rises slightly above the general sur-
face of the water and spreads gently over the sides to the distance of
several inches. By evaporation a residue is left Which forms a thin
shelf which projects inward over the surface of the Water. The edge
of this shelf is kept almost constantly moist, but the rear portion is
subjected to more rapid evaporation; consequently, while the latter pre-
sents a delicately-glistening surface, resembling clear White porcelain,
the edge, being exposed to oxidation with less evaporation, forms an
attractive fringe of red, caused by the precipitation of ferric hydrate.
IPieces broken from the rims show essentially the same structure, being
composed of layers of pink and white irregularly alternating. The tem-
perature of these springs is much below the boiling point of water at this
altitude, but the force of ejection is so great as to cause rapid and vigorous
ebullition, which is no doubt facilitated, if not in some degree induced, by



206 RECONNAISSANCE OF NoRTHwBSTERN WYOMING.
Q
the presence of much carbonic acid. The water is very clear and of an
azure tint, which renders startling and impressive the view obtained
upon looking far down into its depths.
In a somewhat quiet portion of the southernmost bowl, removed from
the immediate vicinity of the excessive agitation, there was found a
white and reddish gelatinous substance, probably colloid in part. In-
terlaced or included within this are little globules of calcic carbonate
formed by the bubbling up of carbonic acid through minute orifices be-
neath the colloid body. At the edges of the bowl, where the carbonic
acid rises with less obstruction, little hollow filmy spheres of calcic
Carbonate are formed, after the manner of soap-bubbles, which increase
in size by the union of several by attraction, until they become too
heavy or non-cohesive to remain suspended, When they fall to the bot-
tom entire, or burst and scatter their component particles. Not unfre-
quently in this vicinity, these are found as hard, shelly globes, inter-
mingled with the general texture of the ancient spring deposits.
In another portion of this bowl, also in a comparatively quiet spot,
are a few small clusters of a tough, green, fungoid form of growth, vig-
orous and prominent. The real nature of this apparent anomaly and
other undescribed inmates of these springs is as yet unknown. In com-
mon with many of the latter, it possesses characters which would seem,
at first sight, to define its position as a member of the vegetable king-
dom amoug the lower cryptogamic orders, but there are other features
which seem to place it more properly in the large and ill-defined group
of colloids. In either case, however, there is here presented a wide
field for study in a little-understood subject. In this connection may
be mentioned two other forms which are not only found at this point,
but which are also more or less abundant in a large number of the
springs throughout the Gardiner's River group. The first of these con-
sists of a collection of white, silky fibers, sometimes coated with a fine,
granular substance resembling sulphur, usually forming the bed of a
shallow rill, through which quite warm water is flowing. The other is
a yellowish-green substance found on the gravelly and rocky bottoms
of channels of no great depth, with siliceous or calcareous particles in-
closed in its meshes. This form is often seen underlying the first, which
is then usually attached to it. Both simulate closely the confervoid forms
of vegetation.
On the west side of the larger bowl, and in fewer numbers at the
western edge of all the wide bowls, a quantity of grasshoppers were
floating, which had probably been blown into the water, for none were
observed on the barren land adjoining. They were coating rapidly
with an incrustation of calcic carbonate; and doubtless many are thus
covered and preserved as fossils by falling to the bottom of the spring,
although none were obtained from the old deposits about the extinct
SpringS.
From evidence abundantly present, it is plain that there have been
recent extinctions of springs on this terrace, unless it be true that many
not in action during our stay were then but dormant representatives
of bowls which are vigorously active during certain seasons of the year
when more moisture is supplied. In fact, Dr. A. C. Peale, to whom
we are indebted for many interesting and trustworthy observations
concerning these springs, reports quite important differences in their
degree of activity which had taken place within the space of one year,
and there was certainly not a little change during the year that elapsed
between his last visit and our own in 1873. In One Spot I observed
water bubbling at the bottom of a hole which had once been filled with
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 207
the water, as was proven by the ornamentation of its walls. At present
there is no visible outlet to this spring, though it may be in some way
connected with the large bowls before described, and the same may be
said of the frequent long and deep fissures, which are not uncommon,
in which the sputtering is continually heard, and from which a quantity
of vapor is frequently seen to escape. Several other old spring holes are
present, lined with numerous white crystals of exceeding beauty.
The foregoing descriptions have been mainly confined to a review of
the first seven terraces.
Eighth terrace.—The eighth bench is raised but five feet above the
seventh, and contains but a single Spring, about ten by fifteen feet in
diameter, and having not more than One-third the depth of the preced-
ing bowls. The water in this spring throbbed fitfully near the center
to the height of a foot or more. About the edges there were a number
of rather shallow evaporating pans, containing Water at different tempe-
ratures, in which were being deposited the most beautiful crystals, in
wonderful variety, aggregated into masses of the most varied forms, and
of several tints—brown, red, pink, white, and yellow. This collection
of slowly-forming products of imperceptible forces is not the least im-
pressive of the remarkable features of this little known region. Far
abler pens than mine would fail to do justice to a Scene beyond the power
of language to describe, but one which can never be forgotten by the
most careless observer of the Workings of nature. In some of these
pans there was a quantity of a peculiar reddish-brown fungoid growth,
which apparently possessed the texture as well as the consistence of a
colloid body. It is especially interesting on account of its rather definite
form, which is fairly represented in Fig. 32. The upright shoots are mere
tubes, closed at the top, which seem to be distended, if not wholly caused,
*
§:
ºº
F
É
|
É;
É-
*º-É
#i
*Éà
: .#
i
FIG. 32°–A clump of a colloid (?) growth in evaporating-pans on eighth terrace, White
Mountain Hot Springs.
by the evolution of carbonic acid from beneath, and when taken out of the
water they completely collapse. They are, however, sufficiently cohesive
to enable small clumps to be dried, when they are very brittle, and crumble
to powder unless handled with care. A comparatively large quantity
of solid matter is attached to the under-surface, consisting of the vari-
ous substances Which would naturally be freed from the solution upon
the liberation of the carbonic acid. Furthermore, a microscopic examina-
tion of the dried gelatinous matter, softened and swollen by soaking in
hot water, reveals no trace of vegetable organization, although green is
not uncommonly a prevalent color. Add to all this the fact that no
amount of steeping in ordinary hot water will suffice to raise the film
with its weight of Solid matter, as in the evaporating pan, (though the
colloidal mass When freed from this encumbrance rises rapidly to the
surface,) and there can be no doubt that the conformation illustrated in
Fig. 32 is produced by the struggling of carbonic acid to free itself
from beneath an obstruction of colloid matter, which probably origi-
nates from the organic matter contained in the water. This organic
matter may in part arise from the rocks through which the Springs
reach the surface, but We have already seen that much is introduced







208 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
into the bowls from without by the action of the Wind and in other
Ways. Amidst so much of novelty, and while closely studying the won-
derful variations produced by very slight changes of condition, one is
almost Overwhelmed with the hundreds of interesting problems which are
continually presented for solution on all sides. It is, therefore, impossi-
ble, within the limits of a single chapter, to record one-half of the interest-
ing observations made in the field, much less to follow out the discus-
sions to their legitimate conclusions in all cases. On this account, many
important features of this region must be omitted altogether, while
Others can receive but a small share of attention in this report. Some
subjects, which cannot be even alluded to in this chapter, will receive
Some consideration in another place, however.
Before leaving the description of the eighth terrace, it will be well to
speak briefly of some very striking results which have been produced
by the action of water upon many of the deposits since the extinction
of the springs. In some manner not necessary for our present purpose
to investigate, there have been produced deep fissures in the material
of the benches, and occasionally also quite large caverns have been left.
The latter are, doubtless, in some cases the relics of underground cham-
bers belonging to some of the ancient springs. Whenever these are
brought to light, the trickling of the water which percolates through
the Superincumbent mass has formed huge masses of clear white stalac-
tites of the most fragile nature. Whole masses of the adjoining forma-
tion also present an appearance very difficult to describe, but not wholly
unlike an immense aggregation of long acicular crystals joined together
by cementation into a loosely-fibrous rock. This peculiarity will here-
after be referred to as the acicular structure. Sometimes this is not clearly
defined, when the mass presents more of an amygdaloidal structure, or
an appearance resembling some kinds of cream Candy Which contain
Inumerous air-cavities within their texture.
FROM NINTEL TERRACE TO UPPER, LIMIT OF ACTIVE SPEINGS.
Above this point there are many active springs, but they are as a rule
much smaller and less vigorous than those existing on the lower terraces.
A thickness of more than thirty feet of the ancient deposits occurs in a
ledge overlooking the eighth terrace, in which the peculiar “wave-line” or-
namentations at frequent intervals serve to mark the successive stages as
well as the varying positions of the old springs. Large masses of this forma-
tion arefrequently forced off by the action of frost and other agents, forming
by their disintegration a considerable talus of fine material. Not quite
half way to the top of this ancient cliff, on a narrow jutting ledge, there
are several small orifices from which the hot water issues, one of which
deposits internally a little sulphur. Above this a ridge runs out South-
erly which is deeply split by what appear to have been earthquake fis-
sures. Toward the northern end the bubbling of hot water is plainly
heard beneath, and this finds its exit at the other end, where it nearly
fills the fissure; still bubbling, it finally passes out, spreading over the
sides and ends of the ridge, and finally runs off below in a little stream.
In this spring there is also deposited a thin lining of sulphur. In the
outflow below, where the water runs over the surface in a shallow strealm,
there is left a deposit of the most delicate cream-color tinged with pink,
and in one spot there may be seen almost every conceivable shade
which can be produced by mixture of delicate white, pink and yello W.
Back of this ridge, in a kind of hollow, occur three boiling springs of
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 209
different composition; one clear with a dark-brown bottom, another
with bluish water, and the third slightly yellow.
Here the acicular structure before mentioned is seen in progress, being
caused by the gentle overflow from the small orifices slowly running off,
as it Were, in lines. At one point a curved arrangement of the needles
is induced by the meeting of the overflow from two adjacent orifices.
The outlets of these three springs join a small rivulet coming from a
point above, and the whole falls into a hole below and disappears.
The white silky fibers previously noted, which closely resemble vege-
tation, if they are not actually of such nature, are abundant in the out-
flow from the long fissure. At the end of the ridge, half way down, these
are covered by a thin streak of sulphur, which is deposited from a rill
which here issues from an orifice in the side of the bank.
Below the ridge, there are two extinct geyser chimneys above six feet
in height. One of them is a mere mound, with a smaller chimney sur-
mounting it, while the other is more regular and open from top to bot-
tom upon one side. No evidences of recent action are present, and both
are gradually, though slowly, becoming wasted through the means of
various weathering agencies. This action is, however, retarded in a
measure by the irregular arrangement of the overlapping-plates of which
the chimneys are composed. On the next bench above, a hot spring
runs out of the bluff near the top, which contains much of the silky
fibrous material,” and deposits of ferric hydrate are common in shallow
places and at the edges of the bowl. This terrace is mainly a region of
extinct springs, and many old orifices not now in action may be dis-
covered by careful examination over the area. More or less of earth-
Quake action at different times is apparently indicated by the numerous
stopped fissures which are especially prevalent in the small extinct gey-
ser ridges and other similar elevations. The structure adjacent to the
fissures is frequently more or less acicular, and sulphur becomes a prom-
inent ingredient above the ninth terrace. Light incrustations of silica.
are sometimes formed about the smaller orifices, but it is seldom depos-
ited in a pure state, being usually mixed with sufficient foreign matter
to give it a dark color not pleasing to the eye. When quite pure, its
component grains are usually much finer and more closely arranged
than in the majority of instances. The deposition of silica in all the
springs seems to mark the declining stages of action, and small extinct
orifices are quite commonly filled with a rather fine-grained calcareous
sand.
On one old ridge at this height, (eleventh terrace,) there is an extinct
shallow bowl four by eight feet, with two very small bubbling springs.
Carbonic acid can here be readily detected by the taste, and the silky
fibrous material is abundant. The orifices are evidently dying Out, and
the bubbling is very irregular, the action for a time (sometimes five
minutes or more) being very vigorous, then almost or entirely ceasing
for about the same interval. There were also two other openings Within
the rim of the extinct bowl, which appeared to have recently died out,
as the sand was still moist about them. No stream issued from the
acting orifices. The bowl occupies the summit of the ridge, and dry
bathing-pools and evaporating-pans, in all respects similar to those pre-
viously described, are ranged below on all sides as on the seventh
*It is to be regretted that the determination of the nature of this substance was not
more thoroughly made. The very limited time devoted to this section, and that With-
out assistance except in packing, rendered it absolutely necessary to pass hastily some
of the most interesting features. It is worth recording, however, that this substance
is always more abundant in the presence of carbonic acid.
H. Ex. 2S5 14
210 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
terrace. In the walls of some of these, holes were observed, some hav-
ing served as mere exits for the contents of the pools, while others,
which extend downward from the outside below the bottoms of the
tubs, doubtless gave rise to small springs at some time in the past.
Below the ridge, on the tenth terrace, there are several hot springs
possessing a due share of interest, but none were noticed which differ
sufficiently from those already mentioned to require special description.
These Springs are mostly less active than those on the lower terraces,
and they do not overflow to a great extent, though a few are of more
than average dimensions. Grass is growing over the terrace quite
generally.
The twelfth terrace is a region of greater activity, and in some respects
it resembles the seventh terrace in its developments, though the over-
flow was by no nieans as great at the time of our visit as at the latter
locality.
Dr. Peale particularly speaks of a great reduction in power and over-
flow on this bench which was observed between the summers of 1871
and 1872. I have no means of comparing accurately the status of any
terrace in 1873 with that of the preceding years, but the overflow in 1871,
as reported by Dr. Peale, was certainly greater than when visited by
us in 1873. Such comparisons will not be considered of much value, how-
ever, when it is remembered that our knowledge of the causes upon which
the supplies of heat and water are dependent, is extremely limited.
The “cooling-vat” structure is here well displayed, but it differs in no
important particular from those previously described. Several promi-
nent but not unique bowls occur at different points on the terrace, the
various deposits and other products being no less interesting than those
which have preceded. No mention has heretofore been made of the
occurrence of unmistakable vegetation in not a few of the cooler springs
throughout the district, in the form of green filaments of Confervoidae.
These are naturally more abundant in the little rills which flow from
the springs, but they are also occasionally present within the bowls
themselves, and sometimes in water of a high temperature. That this
vegetation is less common here than in other hot-spring groups, described
in the preceding chapter, is, perhaps, due to the smaller proportion of
iron in the water of the White Mountain springs.
The thirteenth and fourteenth terraces are occupied by three classes
of springs, viz.: 1. The ordinary deep bowls, usually with no raised
walls above the surrounding surface. 2. The fissure springs. 3. Those
which emanate from ridges or in Ounds, some of which may have been
active geysers at One time.
The common bowls occur almost without exception on the fourteenth
terrace, and, like the majority of such springs in the whole group, they
evolve sulphureted hydrogen. Few of them are especially interesting
on account of their peculiar phenomena, though there is more or less of
variety in their products. As a whole they may be regarded as repre-
sentatives of the closing stages of heat action in this region, and their
variations from the generality of the bowls in the group may readily be
explained by reference to the somewhat different conditions of soil and
geological structure which here prevail. Lying as they do nearer the out-
crop of the volcanic rock, the thickness of the ancient spring deposits
is increased and the composition of the Water more closely approaches
that of the springs which directly cover trachytic material. Being com-
paratively feeble in action, and located at the edge of a thriving forest,
in the midst of a recent surface-formation, they also partake to some
extent of the nature of Salses, or, more properly, several of these springs
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 211
are more or less turbid. Sulphur is a prominent ingredient and silica
is present in fair quantity.
The thirteenth terrace is pre-eminently an area of fissures, there being
Several of large size, with many smaller. Occasionally these are now
Occupied by small springs, but the greater number are dry and show
signs of great age, as we shall presently see. Most of the fissure
springs are of low temperature; and, indeed, this is a characteristic of
the whole series upon the thirteenth and fourteenth terraces. The springs
themselves possess very few features of special interest, but a careful
study of the fissures in which they occur cannot but prove liighly ad-
vantageous in working out many of the present problems connected with
the post-volcanic history of this section. It would be unwise to gener-
alize extensively upon the few facts already obtained, although a num-
ber of interesting observations were made which might seem to warrant
more definite conclusions than are here expressed.
The mounds are so directly the reverse of the fissures that a cursory
view would not lead one to suppose that they could be in any Way con-
nected in their origin. A careful examination, nevertheless, reveals a
degree of similarity in this respect which is quite surprising when first
observed. The fissures very often extend through the axes of ridges
similar to the mounds in general shape, and almost every mound, whether
closed or not, shows traces of a fissure-line (if I may use the term) along
its axis, between the spring orifices, if any exist. These and other facts
point to the conclusion that the mounds, however formed originally, are
produced by the closing of fissures through the agency of hot Springs.
The whole subject deserves more careful attention than any one has
been able to devote to it as yet. Some of the mound Springs, though
often quite small, are brilliantly colored and very interesting ; carbonic
acid, as indicated by the sweetish taste, is often present in quantity, and
iron and sulphur are common ingredients; occasionally pools are formed
on the sides of the mounds, and in one case an ancient pool now gives
rise to a spring of some size, containing, besides a quantity of the silky
fibers, an amount of the fungoid substance referred to in connection
with the large springs of the seventh terrace.
Evidences of age.—The upper benches just discussed may be easily
reached from the tenth terrace by following a Well-Worm trail running up
the dry bed of a stream which formerly carried off the waste water from
the springs above. Above the tenth bench there begins a fair growth
of pines, many of which are so situated with respect to ancient spring bowls
as to make it certain that they have grown since the extinction of the
springs. Some of these trees, of the species Pinus feralis, are fully thirty
inches in diameter below, which, according to Dr. Parry, is equivalent to
a growth of five hundred years. In the direction of the cliff to the left,
and also partly upon the cliff itself, (twelfth terrace,) there are much
younger trees, now dead, appearing as if killed by the springs, some of
which probably existed there at a more recent date. The evidence of
the very great age of the larger portion of the spring-deposits becomes
more marked and abundant as we go upward. The excessive Weather-
ing of the rocks, the thick accumulations of soil and detritus, and the
heavy growth of very old timber, amply illustrate the truth of this
statement. In one broad and extended fissure on the thirteenth terrace
the vegetable mold has accumulated to a sufficient depth to allow of the
growth of pines fifteen inches in diameter. Above the fourteenth terrace
some remains of ancient springs were noticed, more or less obscured by
the surface-ormations and by the growth of trees, whose roots have often
largely filled the old bowls. Still higher the deposits become more worn,
212 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
and, finally, the vegetable mold becomes so thick that only an occasional
exposure of the Spring-formation is seen, while the timber becomes so
densely crowded as to render progress through it rather difficult.
Bearing in mind the great length of time which must have elapsed
after the extinction of the springs before vegetation could have covered
the terraces, as well as the extreme slowness with which deposits of
vegetable mold are accumulated, we are justified in believing that at least
one thousand years have passed since the complete cessation of activity
over the upper or oldest terrace. It is, however, more than probable, all
things being considered, that this era has extended over many times that
period. If now We allow that all the spring-deposits of the first twelve
terraces, counting from below, have been formed during this latter epoch,
(which is scarcely possible,) we shall certainly not be overestimating the
antiquity of the volcanic outflows in this section if we regard their age
as fully eight thousand years. To one who has had the opportunity of
examining this remarkable formation these figures will appear small in-
deed, and I am myself convinced that a period of more than twenty
thousand years has elapsed since the origin of the earliest springs in
this section, at the very lowest calculation consistent with all the facts
thus far collected.
The composition of the products of the springs of this group is not
difficult to explain if it be true, as there is every reason to believe, that
a thickness of hundreds of feet of the limestones of Carboniferous age
underlies a portion at least of these deposits. The general structure
exhibited in Fig. 29 is ideal only as regards a portion of the section,
and sections observed farther to the north are reported by Drs. Hayden
and Peale to reveal fifteen hundred feet of the Carboniferous beds in the
same relative position as here indicated. Although not positively ascer-
tained, few indeed will be disposed to doubt that the springs originate
in the eruptive rocks, and this would cause the water to reach the sur-
face by passing through the limestone, dissolving it in its course and
depositing calcic carbonate as its principal ingredient.
Subterranean passage.—Not far from the upper limit of the spring-
formed rocks, quite near the trail, which passes high up through the
timber, there is a large cavern With a narrow entrance from above at
one side. The opening is not prominent, and might readily be passed
unobserved by one in search of it. Mr. Creary and myself came upon
it quite accidentally, and it was not visited by other members of the
party. Two small pine trees had been conveniently placed as a kind of
ladder leading downward from one end of this passage. It is highly
improbable that these could have fallen into this position, from which
it must be inferred that the cave had been entered by some one before
our visit; but no reference is made to it in any writings upon the sub-
ject of the springs that I have yet seen. As a cavern merely, this is
not especially interesting, but its features plainly indicate that it once
formed a part of the underground channel of a hot spring, and this ren-
ders it important as a means of adding to our limited knowledge of the
structure of such as are now in action. A section through the main
portion of this cave is given in Fig. 33. The entrance lies at One
side of the bottom of a depression which was evidently at one time the
surface portion of a fair-sized spring. It is rudely hopper-shaped ; that
is, it is narrower below than above, and it has a length of about six feet,
an average width of three feet, and a depth of about three feet. Crawl-
ing through the passage (0) and descending by the rude ladder, We
found ourselves in a chamber (c) about nine feet in height, with a steep
--
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 213
sloping floor, covered with a thick deposit of vegetable mold, which
was carpeted with undecayed pine leaves and the smaller branches.
..— =
==== &
-
-:=#e.
- -->.
*==-----ºse
FIG. 33.-General section through cave left by extinction of a hot spring at White
Mountain, Gardiner's River.
a, a, surface contour, showing ancient pool ; b, entrance ; C, chamber ; d, descending
channel, transverse section; e, remains of a bison; 0, passage into cavern, (not quite
as large as represented in the cut.)
A section taken along any given line fails to convey an adequate idea
of the extent and irregularity of this subterranean channel.
The passage or constriction between c and d, Fig. 33, leads also to a
larger chamber not represented in the cut, which communicates more
directly with the descending channel, d. It is probable that a careful
exploration will reveal one or more external openings, through which
springs have once issued, in addition to the one already described. In
support of this opinion, not verified for want of sufficient time, it may
be mentioned that much more light enters the larger chamber than
would seem possible if the one entrance (o) discovered were its only
source of supply. Some interesting deductions may be made from the
structure of this cavern, the more important of which are reserved for
use in chapter XIV. In this place it need only be remarked that the
observed features point very clearly to the existence of one or more hot
springs in this section in very ancient times which received their supply
of water through these underground passages, and which obtained the
substances deposited from this water by direct solution of the material
of the surrounding Walls.
At the farther side of the chamber 6, near the foot of the sloping floor,
e, (Fig. 33.) I discovered the skull and other bones of a bison (Bos America.
mus Gmelin,) of such size as to render the question of the manner of its
entrance not an easy one to Solve. The relative position of the bones,
(which did not appear to have been disturbed since the death of the
animal,) as well as the general position and posture of the whole, seemed
to indicate a certain amount of choice on the part of the individual, from
which I conclude that the animal did not die before reaching the bottom
of the cavern. This also confirms me in the opinion that there are
other external openings to this series of chambers, for I am persuaded
that no animal of this size could fall into the opening (b) Without one of
two results: either he would be able easily to extricate himself, or, if
too severely maimed, he would remain Wedged into the narrow passage

214 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
(o) until death ensued. In the latter case, the carcass would not fall
until so far decomposed as to prevent it from reaching the foot of the
slope entire, and it is highly probable that the head or some other por-
tions would remain outside. The conclusion seems natural, therefore,
that this animal in some way fell through a larger opening, perhaps
into the adjoining chamber, from which he passed to the chamber c, as
the one nearest the surface, trying to force his way through the passage
(o,) until death finally came to his relief. All the bones found were well pre-
served, but, in common with the surrounding objects, they were covered
with mildew. From the fact that they were well imbedded in the soil,
it is not probable that the animal had perished within a number of
years, though certainly very much later than the extinction of the
Springs.
The dampness of the air within the cave will be inferred from the
growth of mildew and its allies, but very little water gains an entrance,
and this by percolation only. As a consequence, a stalactitic growth
takes place very slowly in a few spots over the roof.
This cavern is situated on the highest and most ancient hot-spring
terrace, which is adjacent to the outcrop of trachyte forming the high
timber-clad ridge above. This terrace is the fourth or fifth, at least,
above the fourteenth or highest bench now containing active springs.
It is very difficult to determine the exact number of the extinct benches
on account of the thick growth of timber and the partial obliteration of
the ancient contour of the surface by the various eroding and other
agencies.
In leaving a subject of such great interest as that which occupies so.
large a part of this chapter, it may not, perhaps, be considered wholly
out of place to reiterate a portion of the author’s views on the benefits.
to be derived by science from these and other works of nature, within
the limits of the tract reserved by the Forty-first Congress under the
name of the Yellowstone National Park. These remarks, as given
below, are quoted from an article which appeared in the number of the
American Naturalist for February, 1874.”
“It is a remarkable fact that the springs in different localities are
widely dissimilar in many respects, and even those in the same locality
often differ as greatly from each other in some of their characteristics.
The White Mountain Hot Springs of Gardiner’s River are a note-
worthy example of this, and did there exist no other reason for the
formation of a park in this region, the fact that here the successive
steps in the history of the ancient volcanic action are so clearly portrayed
is alone sufficient ground for their protection. I venture to say that no-
where in our country, not even in the truly wonderful caſion of the Col-
orado, is so much of geological history crowded into such narrow limits
as in this portion of the Yellowstone Basin. Nowhere in the world, I
had almost said, is there to be found such an infinite variety with so
small an expenditure of material. The area within which all this is
comprised is much less than ten square miles. Some of the most inter-
esting products are so delicate, and many of them are formed in situa-
tions so peculiar, that frequently the Work of years might easily be
demolished in a very few seconds. It is true that in many cases Spolia-
tion may be rectified, but there are numerous formations which have
been and are now progressing so slowly that the Work of accumulation.
can barely keep pace with the destructive effects of natural erosion.
* The Yellowstone National Park. I. Its Scientific Value. II. Its Improvement. By
Theo. B. Comstock, B. S., American Naturalist, vol. viii, February and March, 1874. A
few copies were reprinted in palmphlet form, entitled “The Scientific Value of the Yel-
lowstone Park.”
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 215
“And yet this remarkable section furnishes but a small portion of
the attractions of the Park to the scientific observer. Hot and cold
Springs, mud-volcanoes, fumaroles, solfataras, and geysers; rapids,
Water-falls, and torrents; deep-cut caſions and craggy peaks, abound in
eVery direction ; lakes, gorges, and Cataracts surprise one almost at
every turn, and the whole is situated at a point where ‘the grand Rocky
Mountain system culminates in a knot of peaks and ranges inclosing
the most remarkable lake-basin in the world. From this point radiate
the chief mountain-ranges, and three of the longest rivers of the conti-
ment—the Missouri, the Columbia, and the Colorado.”
“These being preserved by act of Congress, the earnest student of
nature will always find an abundance of fresh matter for research in
nearly every department of science. Here he will find ready to his
hands a laboratory of physics in which he may observe on a large scale
the action of the various forces of attraction and repulsion, and new
illustrations of the correlation and conservation of energy cannot fail
to attract his attention. He will find the laws of crystallization ex-
emplified in forms novel and instructive, and will, doubtless, witness
many new and varied phenomena of heat, light, and electricity.i
“The chemist will interest himself in problems of analysis and syn-
thesis, in the processes of solution, condensation, and evaporation, and
the chemical changes incident thereto. To the botanist and the vege-
table physiologist the field is open for observation and wide experimen-
tation, but there exists even at this great altitude a store-house of facts
bearing upon the distribution and fertilization of plants and the almost
indefinite related subjects. The zoologist and the student of compara-
tive anatomy may also hope for rich rewards in but partially explored
fields, and the meteorologist, astronomer, artist, and physician may each
find here full employment for his peculiar talent. Speaking from a
geological standpoint, I can, from my own experience, promise the
enthusiastic student of our earth's history a view at once so complete
and so overwhelming as to enchain his whole attention.”
C. H. A. PTE R N I.
THERMO-DYNAMICS, CONTINUED–DESCRIPTION OF HOT SPRINGS, CON-
TINUED. -
IX. Prairie Group, Warm Spring Creek—X. Silica Jets on branch of Warm Spring
Creek—XI. Brimstone Group—XII. Hot Springs on East Fork Madison River—
XIII. Prominent bowls of Lower Fire Hole Valley—XIV. Half-Way Group.
Returning to Camp 41, on the East Fork of the Yellowstone, the train
then proceeded southward along the left bank of the main river, after
crossing by the Miner's Bridge, a substantial structure which spans the
torrent not far above the entrance of East Fork. No prominent groups
of springs are met along our trail until the valley of Warm Spring
Creek is reached, more than twenty miles farther up the river. The
existence within these limits of three groups, including fifteen bowls, is,
however, reported by Dr. A. C. Peale in his report for 1872. These are
* “Wonders of the Yellowstone,” edited by James Richardson; “Illustrated Library
of Travel, Exploration, and Adventure,” edited by Bayard Taylor. New York : Scrib-
ner, Armstrong & Co., 1873. - * - *
+ Some interesting observations of others are quoted in the article from which these
remarks are copied.
216 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
located near the western edge of the Grand Cañon, at the Southeastern
base of Mount Washburne, and, consequently, at Some distance from
our trail, which passed to the westward of this point, to avoid recent
obstructions in the old path.* In the same volume, Doctor Peale also
describes one or two interesting collections which he visited upon a
stream to which the name of Violet Creek was given. These Springs
were not passed by Captain Jones's party, but a glimpse of them was
obtained by myself while making the trip from Cascade Creek to the
Geyser Basins of Fire-Hole River one day in advance of the train. The
route then pursued varied in some respects from that followed afterward
by the main party, being less direct and bearing well to the South Ward,
when these springs were seen in the distance. Even the imperfect
view thus obtained was sufficient to enable one to judge that the group,
as a whole, possesses features not less interesting than those of any
other collection within the limits of our reconnaissance, and this Opinion
is substantiated by the report of Dr. Peale, who describes them as “an
important group,” and mentions some very striking peculiarities in con-
nection with them.
IX. —WARMI SPRING CREER, OR PRAIRIE GROUP.
A short distance above the rapids, which occur above the upper
falls, two streams enter the Yellowstone River nearly opposite each
other. The one flowing from the right bank is named Sour Creek upon
the map of Captain Jones, which also forms the basis of the colored
geological map accompanying this report.
Warm Spring Creek, rising near the divide between the waters of the
Madison and Yellowstone Rivers, enters from the left bank just below
the collection of hot springs known as the Crater Hills Group. (Group
IV, ante, chapter IX; see also Fig. 16.) The valley of this stream is
rather narrow, but marshy, the descent being comparatively slight for
some distance above the junction of the creek with the river.
The bluffs upon both sides for the distance of a mile or more are
clothed with a thick growth of timber; but above this a wide expanse
of high-rolling prairie wedges in, as it were, between the forest patches.
The springs being almost wholly located outside of the timber, the name
Prairie Group suggests itself as not inappropriate for use in designating
them,
The first collection of hot springs occurs about two miles above the
mouth of the creek. They are situated mostly upon the left bank, not
far from the main stream, with which they are connected by a small
branch entirely supplied by their overflow. The temperature of the
water is sufficiently high to heat the contents of the creek to a very per-
ceptible amount above the previous temperature and to make this in-
fluence felt for some distance below. The springs themselves do not
differ essentially from others which have already been described not far
distant; but such differences as were noticed furnish a clue to the causes
of observed dissimilarities in the members of a single group. In other
words, we are here given a striking illustration of the principle elsewhere
enunciated, that variations in the character of different springs are de-
* A single spring emerges with force in the deep cañon of Tower Creek near its junc-
tion with the Yellowstone River, and others are scattered thinly along the banks of
the latter. See “Isolated Springs,” under section VI, chapter IX.
f See report of Dr. A. C. Peale in United States Geological Survey of Montana,
Idaho, Wyoming, and Utah, 1872, pp. 134, 135. Washington : Government Printing
Office, 1873.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 217
pendent, not only upon dissimilar geological structure, but also very
largely upon variations in the intensity of the subterranean forces.
The structure at this point is almost identical with that along the banks
of the Yellowstone, in the neighborhood of the salses; but the deposition
of Sulphur is here more abundant in proportion to the size of the springs.
In general, the bowls may be described as sputtering fumaroles, though
there are a few fair-sized pools from which little or no vapor ordinarily
escapes. The clearness of the water, compared with that usually
present in springs emerging from the old lake-deposits, and the marked
absence of mud-bowls, is a matter of some surprise to one who has pre-
viously visited the groups which lie in similar relations to the lacustrine
formation. This seeming discrepancy may readily be understood, how-
ever, by referring it to the comparative feebleness with which the
water is ejected in most of the members of the Prairie Group.
No new products, structurally or chemically considered, were here ob-
served, nor were there forming any deposits of sufficient extent to merit
Special consideration.
The presence of iron is less apparent in the coloring of the products
than is often the case, but the constancy and rapidity of the outflow of
the water, though in comparatively smail quantities, is sufficient to
account for the absence of such indications. At the same time the
small amount of special deposits formed by precipitation from the
water after it has become condensed by cooling, points to the conclu-
sion that the solution of the subterranean rocks is less complete than in
many localities. . -
Another important collection of thermal springs occurs two or three
miles farther up the valley of Warm Spring Creek. These were just in
view from the point at which we (Mr. Creary and myself) turned south-
ward, away from the creek, but the trail of the main party passes the
group at no great distance, if I am not mistaken.
The water which flows from them remains quite hot until it has
reached a point below our crossing.
The valley has been cut down to the underlying igneous rock at our
ford, and the clear water passes over it in a broad shallow stream. So
far as we were able to ascertain, the prominent springs of this upper
group emerge from the volcanic rock. Quantities of vapor were ascend-
ing from the locality at the time of our passing, which was not far from
3 p.m., (August 22.)
X.—BOILING SPRINGS NEAR SOURCE OF WARM SPRING CREEK.
After crossing Warm Spring Creek, we pushed on in a southwesterly
course for several miles, until a severe storm of wind and rain (We had
been all day exposed to a cold, drizzling rain) forced us to take shelter
upon the lee side of a forest. After a time we were able to proceed, when
we soon struck a trail (Barlow’s, 1871) for which we had been searching,
which led us near to the source of the creek. By leaving the trail at a
point where it turns to make a considerable détour, we made an advan-
tageous cut-off, not impracticable for riding animals, and quickly
reached an interesting group of springs, in the neighborhood of Which
we spent the night. -
The train camped here on the following day, making Camp 44.
The stream on which these hot springs are situated probably comes
from cold springs some distance above, a number of which also add to
its volume from along its sides in a meadow above our camp. Here it
also meets with a number of hot springs, which, with the contributions
218 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
from the numerous boiling springs below, soon render the water excess-
ively hot. This upper meadow is partially separated from another in
which we were camped, by a ridge of trachyte, which has been cut
through by the stream.
The Springs are scattered along both sides of the creek above and
below, but the most powerful and interesting bowls occur near the edge
of the current, on the left bank, just within the lower end of the short
pass or gorge. This set of jets, as they have been called, is the nearest
approach to geysers that we have yet noticed, and, in the ordinary
acceptation of the term, it would not be improper to designate them
thus, but it will be more convenient and, for our purpose, more correct
to describe them under the present head. We will therefore consider
them merely as spurters, a kind of highly active boiling springs in
which the Water is thrown to a considerable height, but in a manner
differing essentially from the eruption of a true geyser, even when the
latter is in a state of constant activity. This distinction is one of not a
little importance, but, as it will be found more clearly defined in the
chapter partly devoted to the discussion of the general subject of the
hot springs and geysers, (chapter XIII,) no further attention need be
given to it in this place.
These springs vary in size and intensity from furious boiling pools, in
which the water spurts but an inch or two, to those in which it is thrown
to a height of more than twice that number of feet. One bowl in par-
ticular, the largest in the group, is partly surrounded by a chimney
nearly five feet in height, and the water is occasionally thrown to a
height of more than six feet, so as to pass completely over this rim.
The contents of this bowl are continually agitated, and the constant
but irregular thud of the successive impulses reminds one vividly of
the sound produced by the dashing of the water on a rock-bound coast.
The chimney is open on the side next the stream, thus allowing the over-
flow to pass off freely in this direction. It is difficult to imagine the
building up of such a compact and regular Wall by the mere accumula-
tion of solid particles derived from the evaporation of the ejected solu-
tion, and yet the evidence is abundant and quite conclusive upon this
point. Some idea of the antiquity of the spring may, perhaps, be
gained from a knowledge of the fact that a small portion only of the
water which is projected from the bowl falls in a position to be availa-
ble for the purpose of increasing the height or thickness of the wall of
the chimney. There are several smaller orifices with correspondingly
diminished chimneys, but the majority of the minor springs of this
group are mere bubbling jets, in which the wateris occasionally spurted
to the height of a few inches, and these are not usually provided with
raised walls. In all of these, however, there is something of an ap-
proach to the same structure, and a few differ only in degree from
the largest bowl.
The water as it falls and evaporates about the smaller orifices spreads
out so as to form a slightly arched covering over the bubbling pool,
with an opening near the center, through which the jet is forced ; in
the large bowls, on the contrary, the volume of agitated water keeps
open the space above the pool, and thus only the liquid which falls
outside its limits can become evaporated, while the greater rapidity
with which the accumulation takes place causes the resulting wall to
rise much more nearly in a vertical direction.
Sulphureted hydrogen gas is evolved from some of these springs and
small deposits of sulphur are formed in favorable situations, but the
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 219.
chief and most characteristic ingredient throughout is silica, of which
the chimneys are mainly composed.
Were we to classify these jets according to the character of the de-
posits alone, their place would undoubtedly be among the geysers, for We
find here not only a composition nearly identical with that of the products
in the Fire-Hole basins, but even the peculiar structure of the geyser
products is very closely imitated in the formations about the bowls.
About some of the smaller jets clear white deposits of the most beauti-
ful geyserite are formed, resembling porcelain beneath, with an upper
Surface of delicate tracery or of coarser excrescency, according to the
force of the falling water. Sometimes a glistening pink surface is dis-
closed by the fracture of the rougher incrustations, which are usually
of a light-brown color. Manganese in the form of pyrolusite (manga-
nic dioxide) is extremely abundant as a coating to parts washed by the
outflow and by the falling spray, as well as on portions of the interior
walls of many of the bowls. Iron is not scarce, being more particularly
present exteriorly, where it gives rise to the brown and pink colors
which are visible in the siliceous crust, and it is noticeable that the
growth of green cryptogamic vegetation in the Water is especially abun-
dant in those spots where iron is most common as a deposit. The pro-
portion of this ingredient is, however, not as great as in many Sections,
the trachyte being lighter in color in consequence.
The following description of specimens obtained from this locality
will serve to explain the special features observed :
a. Igneous rock from the Wall of the gorge, a part of the ridge
through which the stream has been cut. This is a trachyte of a pur-
plish tint on a surface of fracture and Weathers light-colored.
b. An incrustation of siliceous sinter or geyserite, formed about the orifice
of a small jet. The water, falling as a coarse spray, has produced upon
the upper service a peculiar kind of ornamentation almost impossible to
describe, but which may be compared to a quantity of brown beans,
partly imbedded in a rock.
c. Piece broken from the channel of the same jet, where the Water flows:
out. This is coated with a dark yellow incrustation caused by the ad-
mixture of sulphur (?) and ferric hydrate, and is very largely composed of
manganic dioxide, which give it a soft earthy texture.
d. Small island-masses standing in the bed of the outflow from the
largest jet. The top is covered with relief work not unlike a cauliflower-
head in general appearance, but more deeply indented, formed by the
action of the returning water as it falls from the jet. The upper por-
tion of the side is coated with black, (possibly a sulphide,) and the
lower portion is covered with a considerable deposit of aluminic hydrate
and ferric hydrate mixed (bauxite) of a light coffee-color. A section
shows that the whole is composed of a rather irregular alternation of the
three minerals geyserite, pyrolusite, and bauxite, there being no mixture
of these at any point, on account of their different Specific gravities.
The deposition of the bauxite and pyrolusite at the same distance
from the jet, therefore, indicates some variation in power at different
times.* The siliceous sinter, or geyserite, which comprises the greater
portion of the mass, is compact and glistening and rather dark in color.
e. Portion of the outside of the rim of the lower or open side of the
largest jet. Here the surface is exposed to the combined action of the
overflow and the falling water; hence the mammillary excrescence is
coarser and less regular, while the flowing off of the water has produced
* In some cases the deposition of the manganic dioxide is undoubtedly induced by
the presence of foreign organic matter, (as Wood, &c.)
220 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WWYOMING.
much the same features as in specimen c, though on a much larger
scale. Pyrolusite is prominently present as an incrustation, but it does
Inot accumulate on Surfaces exposed to the washing action of the water.
f. Fragment of soaked wood taken from the water at the outlet of
the largest jet. This does not show signs of silicification after months
of exposure to the air, (from August 23, 1873, to September 17, 1874,”)
though it had previously become softened and thoroughly permeated by
the hot liquid. Its color, as at first, is now a light brown, and it has
become toughened by drying, without, however, increasing in brittle-
D.CSS,
g. Earthy moss obtained from beneath the water in the stream below
the largest jet, originally formed as an incrustation upon a small branch.
The impression of a portion of the wood is left as a groove in the lower
side. A deposit of pyrolusite was first formed, but this is now covered
by an accumulation of bant.cite, one-quarter of an inch in thickness. The
upper or Outer surface is ornamented slightly by annular grooves. Here
again We have evidence of a change in the force of ejection of the same
mature as recorded under d. The deposition of alumina (as bauxite) in a
spot previously characterized by the precipitation of pyrolusite, indi-
cates a diminution of intensity since the epoch of the formation of the
black coating at this point.
There can be but few subjects more interesting or more promising of
rich results in the investigation, than the tracing of the numerous hot
springs through their various products back to their origin in the igneous
rocks. In the present case, we need go no further than the immediate
vicinity of the group for eruptive material which contains all the mineral
ingredients of the spring deposits, so that we may be justified in believ-
ing that the source of these bowls, so far, at least, as their products are
concerned, is not far distant. The source of the heat and other possi-
ble forces concerned in the movement of the water, is, however, quite
another question, and one which can only be answered after a careful
review of all the facts, and a comparison of the features and phenomena
of a large number of Widely-separated springs.
XI.-BRIMSTONE GROUP. (SOLFATARA.S.)
Less than a mile distant from the silica jets just described, in a south-
westerly direction, an important collection of Solfataric fumaroles exists
as the main source of another branch of Warm Spring Creek. There
are many points of similarity between this group and that on Turbid
Lake, described in chapter IX, (group I,) but the Salses of that section
are here scarcely represented, while the activity of the solfataras is much
increased.
The geological structure is much the same in the two localities, although
the Turbid Lake Group is more than 1,500 feet below the level of the
Drimstone Group. From this fact it may be inferred that a smaller lake
has existed in the past, or perhaps a Series of lakes at a much higher
altitude than the great Yellowstone basin. It is also highly probable
that these were drained in the direction of the great lake, though the
exact course of the outlet cannot be determined without more thorough
and extended investigation. Several ponds and pond-like depressions
still remain, and although their relations to the present drainage system
cannot, in all cases, be clearly made out in a cursory view, there is still
* Though I can see no reason to suppose that it would cause any difference in the re-
sult, it may be well to state that the specimen has been tightly wrapped in paper during
the year that has elapsed since it was obtained.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 221
much reason for the belief that all are more closely connected with the
Yellowstone slope than with that of the Madison River. A large but
not rapid stream passes off from the neighborhood of the springs, which
is probably the main source of Warm Spring Creek, the outflow from
the silica jets being more properly considered a branch of this. A sul-
phurous pond not more than one-quarter of the size of Turbid Lake is
Situated near one side of the group, lying some feet above the flat on
Which most of the springs are located. Some vapor was arising from
a few of the orifices at 8.30 a. m. On the twenty-third of August, but
signs of previously greater activity were apparent. It is therefore prob-
able that these springs are subject to periodical agitation, though no
facts were elicited which could aid in determining the intervals between
eruptions.
The time spent in this locality was not sufficient to allow of much care-
ful work, and the nature of all the products was consequently not ascer-
tained; sulphur, however, is the principal ingredient, being probably
produced here in greater quantity than in any other portion of the
National Park thus far described by the several authorities. There are
some bowls of considerable size, but the most striking feature of the
whole area is the occurrence of a large number of small orifices, in
which the water bubbles constantly, giving rise to deposits of crystal-
lized sulphur, which are formed upon the Walls of numerous cavernous
incrustations. The various interesting effects produced by the action
of sulphurous water and vapor in other sections are here displayed on
a scale of some magnitude, whenever the necessary conditions are
present.
The pond and some of the larger bowls occur in a spot which con-
tains a few feet of limestone deposits as a surface formation, while the
solfataras emerge more directly from the underlying trachyte. The
whole group is, perhaps, one hundred feet above the level of the jets
described in section N.
Local deposits of ferric by drate were observed, but nothing was seen
to indicate the deposition of manganic dioxide as a prominent deposit.
In the midst of the dense forest, about half a mile beyond this group,
the trail passes partly around a small lake of clear fresh water, not in
the least unpleasant to the taste. Its size, late in August, was not less
than forty rods in diameter, and the signs of water action extended for
some distance up the steep slope of the gravelly beach, showing that it is
much larger at times. I could perceive no outlet, and it is not impossible
that it has underground connection with some of the neighboring hot
springs, although it is lower in position than the Brimstone Group, I
think.
XII.-HOT SPRINGS ON EAST FORK OF MIADISON RIVER,
Heavy deposits and other evidences of the former existence of springs
over a portion of the area drained by the East Fork of the Madison and
its tributaries,” occur abundantly along our course, which also here dif-
fered somewhat from that afterward taken by the train. No active
springs were observed of special importance until a prominent group,
on the left bank of the East Fork, was reached shortly before entering
the Lower Geyser Basin of Fire-Hole River. There are, however, a large
* Ou the maps, two streams flowing into the Madison River are named alike (East
Fork.) That referred to throughout this report is the more southerly, which has re-
ceived the name Hayden’s Fork from members of the expedition of 1872, though this.
appellation has not become general.
222 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
number of thermal Springs, more or less isolated, in the valley of East
Fork, which we could not stop to examine, while the existence of others
is indicated by the amount of highly-heated water contained in the
Stream.
Judging from the accounts of other members of the expedition, as
well as from the published reports of Dr. Hayden and others, we prob-
ably missed many of these by passing in a nearly direct line through
the timber for some distance before striking the river.
In the group just mentioned there are more than a dozen large and
mportant bowls, some of which are vigorously active, approaching even
to the smallest geysers in the force with which their contents are occa-
Sionally ejected. At the time of my visit to this locality, (2 p.m., August
23,) the activity was not as great as is sometimes the case, for there
were signs of recent overflows much more extensive. Very little vapor
was then ascending from the spot, but dense clouds were afterward
given off. The springs vary in size from mere orifices less than an inch
in diameter, to deep bowls having circumferences of from thirty to
forty feet.
There is considerable variety in the phenomena here exhibited, some
of the larger bowls being comparatively quiet, others almost incessantly
boiling, though quite regularly, while others Sputter, and even eject the
water in jets. Besides these there are not a few seething solfataras,
and the contents of one bowl alternately rise and fall in connection with
excessive ebullition. Some of the springs have no rims other than the
adjacent soil, but the majority are ornamented in various ways, several
being provided with raised chimneys of no great height.
Here again we find the geological structure not widely different from
that observed in the neighborhood of the Yellowstone Lake at the Tur-
bid Lake Group, (I, chapter IX,) with, perhaps, a much smaller propor-
tion of alumina in the uncompacted surface-formation. As a consequence
of the latter feature, silica predominates in the products of this section.
Iron and sulphur are also present in sufficient quantity to give charac-
ter to some of the bighly-colored deposits, and the latter js found lining
the interior of many of the smaller orifices in the form of delicate yellow
crystals. A green cryptogamic (?) growth is present in some of the
larger bowls, which offer favorable conditions of agitation and tempera-
ture.
Another small collection of Springs, manifesting quite similar phe-
nomena, occurs directly On the trail, just at the entrance by a kind of
pass to the Fire-Hole Valley. One or two geysers with low chimneys
also exist here, but they were not in action when we passed them. As
in the group near the stream, mentioned above, there are some bowls
which are quite extinct, while others appear to have been more recently
formed than most of those in action. None are sufficiently unique to
require special mention, and the two collections may be considered as
one so far as essential features and products are concerned.
In passing down to this point from the summit of the divide between
the drainage systems of the Yellowstone and Madison Rivers, we obtain
a vertical section of two thousand feet of the eruptive rocks, though the
structure is greatly obscured in many places by immense deposits of
ancient spring products or by thick accumulations of vegetable mold.
Some peculiarly-mixed varieties of rocks of igneous origin occur under
circumstances which suggest mere local distribution as veins or dikes;
but the general order of arrangement can be made out with some degree
of satisfaction. Without attempting an accurate classification, the
following may be taken as a representative section ; beginning above
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 223
a. Hard and compact trachyte, with a crypto-crystalline texture ;
underlaid by,
b. Quartzose trachyte, (? granitic rhyolite, or newadite, of Richthofen;)
which covers,
c. Obsidian ; above
d. Volcanic breccias, &c.
\
XIII.-SPRINGS IN LOWER GEYSER BASIN, FIRE-HOLE RIVER,
Just beyond the locality of the last-described group, a sudden turn
to Southward brings us quickly in sight of many more hot springs and
geysers belonging to several more or less connected clusters which
occupy a large area in the lower valley of the so-called Fire-Hole River,
covering the district now commonly known as the Lower Geyser Basin.
The highly-interesting phenomena of the geysers in this section claim
such a great share of the observer's attention that the many non-eruptive
springs may readily be Overlooked unless some special attention is
devoted to them. In attempting to describe the more important of
these, we are met at the outset with the difficulty of drawing a close
line of separation between the hot springs and the geysers. This sub-
ject will be discussed, however, in its proper place, and we may proceed
without present delay to take up here such of the bowls as do not
properly come under the head of geysers, as defined at the close of
chapter XIII.
The remains of ancient, extinct springs are quite as abundant as the
deposits of recent formation, covering as they do portions of the igneous
rocks of different ages in the neighborhood of the basin. Not a few of
the active springs now occupy the summits of mounds which have been
built up by former geysers; and the present bowls of such represent
the last stages of the warring subterranean forces.
Upon entering the Lower Geyser Basin, we first crossed a broad, flat
tract, clothed with a rank growth of grass, except in spots subjected to
inundation by the overflow from the hot springs and geysers during
the flood-seasons.” Some hot springs have previously existed in cer-
tain portions of this tract, and the evaporation of their contents when
spread over the surface has left impressions of some interest, though
upon a Scale of no great magnitude. In a series of quite shallow pools
thus formed on the plan of the evaporating-pans of Gardiner's River,
the ornamentation and other peculiarities of that region are very closely
imitated, while fine examples of mud-cracks are shown in those which
have been so recently produced as not to allow of the accumulation of
a deposit of Sufficient thickness to conceal the soil beneath. Silica is
the principal ingredient of all the bowls of this basin.
Evtinct geysers.-At the edge of the timber, near the flat, there is
a sluggish spring, which issues from the center of a conical geyser-
mound four feet in height. By the unequal degrees of evaporation in
various parts of the outflow, the top and sides are streaked with shades
of red and yellow, which give the whole an appearance very striking,
but not suggestive of an agreeable object; for it forcibly reminds one
of an ulcerous discharge from a putrid sore. The mound is the accu-
mulation of a geyser long since extinct, and the deposits from the subse-
Quent Spring have nearly closed the orifice, so that the present discharge
* There is no lack of evidence here, as elsewhere, both in this valley and in other
parts of the National Park, that the amount of the outflow has been recently much
more abundant. The term “flood-seasons” is used here to designate the period of such
increase, without regard to the actual times of such occurrences, or the causes by
which they have been produced.
224 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
is much reduced in quantity. The vivid colors are produced by the
precipitation of ferric hydrate and a small amount of Sulphur upon a
white ground produced by accumulations of silica and calcic carbonate
with more or less of the common impurities.
From this point southward, after crossing a small stream coming in
from the east, the surface is covered with a fine calcareous sand, through
which progress is made with some difficulty, and this is succeeded by a
similar loose deposit, with a thin crust not firm enough to support the
weight of a riding-animal. Continuing this course, a low, broad, mound-
shaped hill is ascended, upon which there are several geysers not to be
distinguished by casual observers from hot-spring bowls, except when
seen in action. Upon one side of the eminence over which the greater
portion of the drainage passes, the bathing-pools and evaporating-pans
of the Gardiner's River Group are represented on a reduced scale, and
several small springs of no special importance emerge in their vicinity.
lſud-caldron.—Back of this group of geysers, in a hollow of the ridge
to which they also belong, there is a large mud-caldron in a state of
violent agitation. -
The contents consist of a thick, pasty mud, of a great variety of colors,
from clear white to the most brilliant red. The surface of the sputtering
mass is several feet below the edge of the bowl, and the interior of the
pit thus formed is lined with red, blue, and yellow deposits, caused by
the clinging of the mud which is spurted fitfully upon the disruption of
many viscous cones temporarily formed by the resistance offered to the
ejecting force. The shape of the pit is irregular, approaching the ellip-
tical, with a depth of three or four feet and diameters of about thirty-five
and sixty feet. The mud is composed of a rather streaky mixture of
siliceous, calcareous, and argillaceous material, with the not uncommon
concomitants from which the deep red and yellow colors are derived.
Owing to the constant and excessive agitation of this material the union
of the ingredients is more complete than in many of the mud-bowls, and
the colors are consequently more nearly blended into one. The boiling
takes place over a large surface, perhaps more vigorously near one side,
and small cones or puffs are raised temporarily at each center of ebulli-
tion, which finally burst from the continued pressure, often spurting to
a height of four or five feet. Smaller mud-springs occur in the neigh-
borhood, and there is one bowl of clear water, nearly or quite as large
as the mud-caldron itself. From my own observations I was led to Sur-
mise that the clear spring, and the mud-caldron, or salse, are subject to
more or less of periodical variation in the intensity of their action, but
this supposition is based upon too little knowledge to be of any special
value by itself. It is mainly based upon variations noticed in the amount
of vapor ascending from the pit.
We next passed across a marshy and slushy valley, down which an
important series of geyser clusters shed their surplus water. Camping
as near as convenient to the White Dome, (described in chapter XIII,)
the remaining springs of the basin here mentioned were visited on the
following morning. It should be understood that the writer has placed
these bowls in the category of hot springs, according to the best of his
judgment, after a review of the geysers in this and other localities; but
it should also be borne in mind that some, at least, of those described
as mere springs, may be true geysers which we were not fortunate
enough to observe in action. Such errors, however, are of trifling im:
portance, when the close connection existing between the two classes of
bowls is duly considered.
North Branch.-North of east from our camp, less than half a mile
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 225
distant, there is a group of powerful geysers among which occur several
bowls less evidently eruptive in character. As a rule, the latter do
not, apparently, contribute a notable amount of waste liquid to the gen-
eral outlet of the group; but in one or two cases the overflow is very
Considerable, if not even equal to the ejections from some of the larger
intermittent geysers, owing to the constancy of the flow. One of these
thermal springs is much more feeble than it has been at some earlier
period of its existence, as is evident from the dryness of a large bowl
at the surface, below the bottom of which the present spring is boiling
With a marked resonance. Not far from this is a pool in which the
Water bubbles constantly over the greater part of the surface, but boils
fiercely near the edges, as if struggling to free itself from beneath a
projecting rim, Another, near the last, has been a powerful geyser at
Some time in the past, for it is surrounded by the peculiar stalagmitoid
prominences, so commonly produced by the water as it falls to the
ground after its ejection. The pools about the bowl were quite dry at
the time of our visit, but it is quite possible that we have here a geyser
in which the eruptions occur only at long intervals, as in the Giantess,
elsewhere described, (chapter XIII.”)
Above all of these springs there is a large and deep bowl filled with
hot, but not boiling, water, and there seems good reason for the belief
that this is not a geyser, in the fact that it contains a quantity of a
brown colloid substance, which could not thus accumulate in pools sub-
ject to periodical agitation, unless the dormant intervals were extremely
long. But again, the Water in this bowl is constantly pouring over the
edges in a steady stream, though not in excessive quantity. It is pos-
sible, it is true, that there, may be some underground connection which
furnishes direct communication between this spring and one of the
neighboring geysers, but such a passage is not clearly apparent in any
way. The so-called colloid matter is occasionally found incrusting bits
of wood and other similar bodies floating in the Water. In such cases
it is often almost or quite crystalline in texture, a result which may,
perhaps, be induced by contact with organic matter. A Coleopterous
and a Neuropterous insect were taken from the Water of this bowl, and
others were found in similar situations in other localities.
South Branch.-A short distance West of the White Dome Geyser the
main creek is formed by the junction of two forks; the cluster above
mentioned being located on what may be termed the North Branch.
For convenience of reference, the main stream will bere be designated
as White Creek, a name suggested by the prevailing color of the depos-
its along its sides. The South Branch, besides the geysers which largely
supply it, receives the contributions of a number of thermal springs in
addition to such bowls as are of doubtful nature. A few are deserving
of a fuller notice than can be given in this place, although their pecu-
liar characteristics are mainly the results of count)inations of features
already described. One who has never remarked the marvelous variety
which is not seldom produced by very slight changes in the relations of
parts or in the occurrence of physical conditions, can form no adequate
idea of the great diversity of delineation Which is here displayed.
There are springs with ornamented borders and Springs which are
mere holes in the ground filled with Water; some are deep, with azure-
tinted contents, while others are almost forbidding in their aspect,
reminding one of nothing less disgusting than a tub of sloppy liquid.
In some, delicate rims of their own deposits project inward over
* See Unknown Geyser, chapter XIII, 9.
H. Ex. 285—15
226 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
the surface of the Water ; others are provided with margins no less
fragile which project upward as fringing reefs, and not a few are
hemmed in by Stout walls of coarser composition. There are those with
deep pits, in which the water bubbles, or gurgles, or roars, or simmers,
or sputters, or spurts, and there are quiet bowls, steadily-flowing springs,
and fitful pools. The character and composition of the deposits, the
Wonderful variety and combinations of their colors, and the numerous
conditions under which they have been accumulated and distributed,
have resulted in the production of effects impossible to describe, never
to be justly interpreted by the most skillful artist. Such, in fact, may be
said of each prominent collection throughout the Whole district of hot-
spring action, no less truly than of the South Branch cluster, which is in
some respects exceeded by many of the groups already described. Our
passage through this portion of the basin was too rapid to allow of much
detailed observation, and a very important cluster of geysers and ther-
mal springs on the main trail, at the junction of White Creek with the
Fire-Hole River and below, was necessarily left unexamined.
Desiring to reach the upper basin as early as possible, We pursued as
direct a course as practicable through the timber to a point on Fire-Eſole
River half-way to the next group of springs, (XIV,) thus saving very much
in the distance by the usual trail. In the forest an occasional spring was
passed, and the remains of extinct bowls were not uncommon. In some
places fallen timber is quite abundant, but the greater part of it lies in
one general direction, so that progress along that course is not seriously
impeded. Upon the higher lands, however, it is almost impossible to make
headway against the obstructions of this nature, which are thickly strewn
over the surface in inextricable confusion, and one is forced to follow closely
the scarcely less objectionable course marked out by the low marshy
border of the Fire-Hole River. Less than two miles above, the stream
runs through a narrow caſion in the volcanic rock, which renders travel
less difficult for a considerable distance along its borders, and just here
occurs the prominent collection of Springs to which has been given the
name of Half-Way Group, on account of its position on the trail, about
equidistant between the two geyser-basins of the Fire-Hole Valley.
XIV.-HALF-WAY GROUP-FIRE-HOLE RIVER,.
At this point the river is deflected by the wall of igneous rock upon
the right bank so as to turn nearly at a right angle to its previous
course. The trail, extending along the right bank near the Stream,
passes close to a number of interesting springs within a distance of less
than a mile, scarcely one of which is not deserving of a critical exami-
nation. Altogether there are not less than fifteen bowls of considerable
size, with several smaller orifices and one or two pools in which the
water is thrown up as in a miniature geyser. Upon the left bank of the
river, at the lower end of the group, the most important springs are
located, and their features are so different in many respects from all
others elsewhere observed that even the most casual observer cannot
but be impressed with a sense of the Wondrous variety of manifestation
within such narrow limits. The river in turning West Ward passes partly
around and beneath the edge of a broad siliceous terrace rising forty
feet or more above the bed of the stream. On this bench the springs
are situated, and the outflowing Water is carried over the cliff into the
river by the most direct course. e
One of the bowls is a mere pond of hot water, one hundred and fifty
feet in diameter, but so deep and clear that the view obtained upon
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN Wyoming. 227
looking down into its water is very fascinating, and this effect is very
much heightened by the play of the sunlight upon the rippling surface.
The Water rises by a series of regular and gentle impulses acting in the
Center, thus causing a kind of pulsating overflow all around the margin
of the pool. In this manner the bowl has become slightly raised above
the Surrounding surface by the evaporation of a portion of the extra-
verted liquid, and a series of steps, each but a few inches in height, has
been formed outside. These present an appearance very much as if a
number of immense rings, transversely flattened, with their external
dimensions decreasing gradually from the bottom upward, had been
placed one above another about the rim of a large pit. Clouds of vapor
ascend from the surface at times, but this does not serve to lessen the
beauty and brilliancy of the whole, for even these fumes are quite dis-
tinctly tinted when viewed in certain favorable lights. Another bowl
less than twenty-five feet in diameter is shaped like the interior of a
hollow frustum of a cone inverted, and another is the feeble remnant
of a once powerful spring, which now exists only as an orifice at the
bottom of the ancient pool.
Cliff Spring.—Near the northern edge of the terrace the most con-
Spicuous Spring exists, one which is as unique as it is impressive and
difficult to describe. At a little distance one sees nothing but a dense
mass of vapor rising from one of the largest and deepest pits” to be found
in the Fire-Hole Valley. Approaching with some caution, it is possible
to pass down into the pit near the outlet, and thence along the southern
and western edges of the bowl. The present surface of the water is, in
Some places, at least 20 feet below the general surface of the terrace on
which it is situated. The outline of the pit is very irregular, but we
shall be quite safe in estimating the average diameter (if such an ex-
pression may be used) at not less than 200 feet. The water is con-
stantly most violently agitated, the greatest commotion being observed
atthe Western edge, where it is forced out from beneath the overhang-
ing rock, which is composed of laminated ancient spring deposits. It
would require some careful study to determine the exact relations which
the laminated rock bears to the origin of the existing springs, but the
later history of the present bowl is quite clearly revealed by a compari-
son with its recent manifestations. We thus learn that the subterra-
nean forces have in the past, as now, found an outlet in an easterly
direction, while the surplus contents of the bowl have been discharged
toward the West, according to the natural slope of the surrounding sur-
face. As the Water is thus forced up from below it wears the rock
upon the Western side in such a manner as to undermine it, the thin
lamination of the mass causing this process to take place more rapidly.
After a time a kind of cavern is thus formed, as may now be seen at
one point, and finally the impending portion falls by its own weight, by
so much carrying Westward the margin of the pit, the bowl having ac-
complished its own enlargement wbile undermining the ledge. Occa-
sionally, also, large blocks of the ancient deposits have become de-
tached from the sides by the action of frost and through other means,
and it is highly probable that such masses have not unfrequently been
instrumental in changing the location or direction of the subaqueous
operations to some slight extent. A constant stream of hot Water
passes out through a walled channel from the main portion of the bowl,
but this soon Spreads out thinly and runs off down the slope in many
* The term pit, as employed in this report, distinguishes that portion of a spring
which is above the surface of the liquid contents from the bowl proper, which contains
the water or mud. .
228 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
small rills. According to the shallowness and sluggishness of the flow
at different points, upon which the amount of condensation mainly de-
pends, deposits of various colors are formed, affording examples of
almost every conceivable shade from delicate white to the darker tints
of brown and reo. in addition to the mineral deposits, green and
brown and red accumulations of growing vegetable matter and of col-
loidal substances are common here as well as elsewhere upon the bench
to which this spring belongs.
The specimens collected from the Cliff Spring, as this may be styled, are
described in the following list:
1. A portion of the jutting ledge of the pool, bathed by the water as
it washes the edges in successive waves from the centers of ebullition.
This is exceedingly delicate and highly colored by the deposition at
different points of the silica, containing various proportions of ferric
hydrate and other foreign matter. The colors are very largely retained,
so that the older portions of the ledge, not now exposed to the action of
the water in its ebb and flow, present irregular alternations of the Sev-
eral shades over a surface of fracture. The process of formation of the
ledge, and its chief characteristics, remind one strongly of the cor-
responding portion of the rim of the large bowl on the seventh terrace,
at Gardiner's River Mammoth Hot Springs. The richness and softness
of coloring, and the delicacy of texture in that section, is, however,
much inferior to that of the Cliff Spring, on account of the preponder-
ance of silica at the latter point. Much of the Simter here has the glossy
appearance of real porcelain, being very compactly and evenly deposited.
2. A soft, dark gray depositin shallow water, with a finely wave-marked
surface, caused by the ripples produced by the agitation in the center of
the bowl. The temperature of the Water in which this is forming is so
high, that specimens can be procured only with great difficulty, although
the substance offers no great resistance to blows from a hammer. The
mass thus obtained is rather tenacious, and it hardens upon long eXpo-
sure to the air.
3. Loose pieces of sinter in shallow water, near the edges of the bowl,
originally introduced from without, and now more or less coated with
an incrustation of No. 2, according to the duration of its exposure to
the action of the hot Water.
4. Portion of the wall of a shallow pool through which the Water passes
in escaping from the bowl. This may be regarded as a general combi-
nation of the three preceding, being subject to conditions partaking of
the nature of all of those under which they have been produced. The
result is, therefore, a deposit of a mixed color, with a consistency be-
tween that of a hardened sinter and the Soft No. 2.
5. Brownish red colloid substance, not uncommon about the edges of
the bowl; a pulpy jelly with very slight tenacity, becoming extremely
brittle when dried. It presents no peculiarities other than pertain to
the numerous masses of a similar character which abound throughout
the Hot Spring district.
6. Green confervoid 2 vegetation in quiet places near the Cooler edge
of the bowl ; also observed in channels of the outlet. Owing, proba-
bly, to the presence of iron in the water, this growth is abundant in the
springs of the Half-Way Group, when favorable conditions of depth and
temperature are offered.
7. More ancient deposit near the base of the Wall of the pit, washed
by the water as it boils up in the southwestern corner of the bowl. A
25msiderable quantity of ferric hydrate, and other matter, is deposited in
the crevices of the wall at this point. The ancient laminated rock is
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 229
mainly siliceous, but it resembles the more recent formations in the irreg-
ularity of its texture and composition. -
8. Pieces from the wall with less trace of recent action than in No. 7.
These do not show much change from weathering, except in crumbling
more readily than the modern deposits. They were not taken from spots
eXposed to much aqueous action.
9. Specimen from the old wall, in which the red and green deposits are
Quite conspicuous. The green is of uncertain origin, but it may be col-
lodial, or even some lowly-organized form of vegetation, and it is possi-
bly not an ancient formation.
10. Portion of the surface layers of the wall, showing a very interest-
ing structure induced by the action of running water and other “weath-
ering” influences. A description can scarcely convey any idea of this,
but it may be compared, in general terms, to a series of thin horizontal
plates supported and separated by minute pillars closely crowded, the
distance between the floors being not more than an inch or two.
The reddish substance, No. 5, is formed in the other springs where the
Water is not too much disturbed, and in one spot upon the summit of the
bench there is a very large deposit of it, some two inches in thickness, pos-
Sessing all the properties of like aggregations to be seen in every group
of importance throughout the whole region of springs. The yellowish-
white silky deposit so common at Gardiner's River is also present here
in channels of the outlet through which the hot water passes.
Near another bend in the river, a few rods above this spot, there are
Several bowls upon each bank, one of those upon the right being quite
large. The deposits from these are not widely different from those just
described, although they are situated in a rather alluvial section.
Above this point the trail passes through a continuous succession of
Quaggy marshes and fallen timber for three or four miles, with no signs
of hot springs until the lower end of the Upper Geyser Basin is reached,
when travel becomes much less difficult. -
General geological structure between the Geyser Basins.
As before remarked, in passing from the Lower Geyser Basin up the
Fire-Hole Valley to the Half-Way Group, a broad alluvial tract is
crossed, which is raised so slightly above the bed of the stream as to
be kept continually in a marshy condition by the overflow of its banks.
The existence of ancient thermal springs over a portion of this area is
suggested by the occurrence of several ponds with basins not unlike the
bowls of large hot springs, but there is nothing in the aspect of this
section which seems to indicate the formation of extensive deposits by
such agency within a very great length of time. On the other hand,
there is every reason to believe that much of the space included between
the Half-Way Group and the Upper Geyser Basin bas more recently been
the scene of very great activity, for the greater part of the valley from
side to side is flooded with ancient siliceous sinter, not very deeply
covered by recent humic accumulations. The bed of the river, for nearly
the whole distance, is also composed of the same material. The Geyser
Basins and the intermediate springs are underlaid by these deposits,
and it is apparent that the origin of the post-Volcanic thermic action
was in the far remote past. We may also learn that, whatever of change
has taken place since that period, has resulted rather in diminution of
intensity than in movements of base. In several places the opposite walls
of the valley approach each other more nearly than usual, so as to form
short caſions or passages between somewhat restricted basins.
230 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
In the lower valley there has been much erosion, and two prominent
hillocks, known as the “Twin Buttes,” have been left as relics of the
igneous beds which once filled a portion of the present hollow.
In the walls of the upper part of the Valley, particularly upon the
right bank, the structure can be made out with less of difficulty, but it
will require long and careful investigation to determine the relations
existing between this and distant sections. High up in the bluffs, on the
north, the trachytes appear dipping away from the river at an angle of
nearly 15°. The strata upon the opposite side of the valley, so far as
could be ascertained by cursory observations, are apparently continu-
ous with these. (See Fig. 34.)
The foregoing facts, incomplete as they are, are offered as important
links in the chain of evidence which must some time be gathered from
a region which certainly holds as much material of interest to the
student in thermo-dynamics as can be found anywhere within the same
limits.
º-
º:--
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Hill!!!”; Bºšī|||||||||||
!!!!-TT ºffi #iſ ſº |
FIG. 34.—Ideal section across upper portion of valley of Fire-Hole River, Yellowstone
National Park. A 4 A, trachytes, &c., dipping 15°; B, ancient spring deposits, siliceous.
Tišī
.
The Hot Springs of the Upper Geyser Basin, and the several remain-
ing groups, will be described in the following chapter.
C H A P T E R XII.
THERMO-DYNAMICS, CONTINUED–DESCRIPTION OF HOT SPRINGS, CON-
CLUIDED.
XV. Principal Bowls of Upper Geyser Basin–XVI. Hot Springs on southwest arm of
Yellowstone Lake, Group No. 1–XVII. Southwest arm of Yellowstone Lake, Group
No. 2—XVIII. Thermal Springs, above Heart Lake, at base of Red Mountains.—
Conclusion.
Near the lower end of the Upper Geyser Basin a prominent branch
enters the Fire-Eſole River from a direction east of south. On the
map of the basin, published by Dr. Hayden in his report for 1871, this
stream is recorded as Iron Spring Creek, a name which is sufficiently
appropriate on account of the reddish deposits of iron, which occur in
its track. A group of hot springs and geysers is situated just below a
fork in the creek, one mile and a half above its junction with the Fire
Hole, but we were unable to visit the locality so as to describe them
properly. The minor collections of Springs remaining to be described






















RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN wyoming. 231
in this section are all located in the Fire-Eſole Valley, and the geysers
and non-eruptive bowls are so generally mingled together that it is even
more difficult to separate the members of the two classes than in the
Lower Geyser Basin.
XV.-HOT SPRINGS OF UPPER, G-EYSER BASIN–IFIRE-HOLE RIVER,
In a visit of such short duration to a basin containing a large number
of the most remarkable geysers in the World, it was impossible to fix
the attention strongly enough upon the quiescent thermal springs to ob-
tain all the information concerning them which is essential to accurate
description. Enough material was, however, gathered from the study
of these bowls to demonstrate, beyond the shadow of doubt, that they
are no less important and interesting in their phenomena than those of
any other section within the limits of our reconnaissance. Some were
examined with sufficient thoroughness to enable them to be described
with some degree of fullness, accounts of which will now be given in
the order of their occurrence, beginning at the lower part of the basin.
Clusters a, b. On each bank of the Fire-Hole River, just below the
mouth of Iron Spring Creek, there is a group of springs of varying
temperature, among which are a number of large bowls.
Those upon the left bank lie but a little above the bed of the river, while
those of the opposite collection are disposed upon a sloping surface, the up-
per members being not less than thirty feet higher than the main stream.
The former collection comprises several minor geysers, with three or four
mere springs; the group upon the right bank including only one bowl with
sufficient eruptive power to be properly considered a geyser, but having
seven thermal springs of some importance. As a rule the bowls are
Quite regular in outline, approaching the circular form, and the depth
of the upper portion is very considerable. One of the largest, however,
at the summit of the hill has formed a bordering rim at some distance
outside of the edge of the original bowl, so as to Wall in a larger portion
of the Water, making, as it were, a shallow pond about the inner cup.
This fringing pool is mainly upon the drainage-side of the Spring, leav-
ing the main bowl nearer the opposite edge. The temperature of the
different springs is not uniform, but the average is high, the boiling-
point being almost reached in one or two instances. As might be in-
ferred from their similarity in structure, the features and products of
the springs in these clusters are not markedly different from those
described under Section XIV. Iron is prominently present and silica is
the principal ingredient. The growth of confervoid vegetation is abun-
dant in favorable Spots.
Much vapor is evolved at times from this locality, particularly from
the large bowl at the Summit of the terrace upon the right bank, but,
although a very great difference was observed in the amount of such
fumes given off at dusk (August 24) and on the following morning, it
was impossible to ascertain how much of this change was due to atmos-
pheric conditions. It may, however, be predicated that this bowl at
least is subject to more or less of periodical variation, for there was
sufficient evidence to that effect in the marks of recent overflow about
the edges of the Outlets.
Cluster c.—The next collection of Springs is little more than a con-
tinuation of cluster b, though it is distinct enough to claim separate con-
sideration. As here somewhat arbitrarily defined, this group ...;
all the bowls upon both sides of the Fire-Hole River between the mou
of Iron Spring Creek and a point half a mile above. Within this area
\\
232 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
there are seventeen hot Springs of noteworthy importance, besides a num-
ber of inferior geysers, which might not inappropriately be classed in
the same category. Of this number, but five are situated upon the left
bank of the strealm. Among them all there is, perhaps, as much of va-
riety in ornamentation and mode of action as is to be found in other
Sections, but their general features and phenomena, as well as their
products, are strikingly similar to the members of cluster a, which are
apparently influenced by nearly the same circumstances of structure,
position, and temperature. Indeed, it may be said that the whole de-
Scription given in the preceding paragraph will apply equally as well to
the present group, taken as a whole, for if there be any important differ-
ence, it is rather to be found in the degree of activity than in the nature
of the springs or the character of their deposits. One point of interest
common to all the groups, but more especially noticeable in this cluster, is
the frequent occurrence in close proximity of two or more bowls in which
the temperature of the contents differs greatly. As We pass up the valley
the eruptive effects are more apparent, and the main geyser basin is
reached by a kind of transition from the latent bowl to the roaring spouter.
In accordance with this, the overflow from the upper members of the clus-
ter under review is more excessive than in the collections below, giving
rise at last to well-defined streams, which also receive the surplus from the
accompanying geysers. The deposits of silica, contaminated with iron
(as hydrated sesquioxide) and alumina, and a slight amount of magne-
sic carbonate, are consequently rather more abundant than in the lower
groups. Owing probably to the easy drainage, which causes the surplus
water to be rapidly removed, the finely-ornamented rims and the richly
variegated deposits which abound in Some sections are here less com-
mon, but their place is supplied by heavy accumulations of equal geolog-
ical importance, and of no less weighty interest when viewed in the
light of local history.
Above cluster c.—The remaining Springs cannot be grouped satisfac-
torily; but they will be described as nearly as possible in local order,
omitting such as are unimportant or not Specially characteristic of some
new or interesting feature. At least twenty-five large, and doubtless
very significant, bowls must be passed without notice for want of care-
ful observation, while the number of minor orifices and springs thus
excluded from this account is many times as great. Not a few of these, it
is certain, are but representatives of one or other of the prominent types
already described; but many were seen which promised much additional
information if they could have been properly examined. Above the upper
limit of cluster c no noticeable Springs occur upon either bank of the
river for a space of nearly one-quarter of a mile, when an area of great
activity is met, thickly dotted With them, besides a number of remark-
able geysers, including the IFan, Riverside, Giant, and Grotto.
Pyramid.—From the flat upon the left bank, at a distance of several hun-
dred feet from the river, a large, white mound of silic arises to the height of
twenty-five feet. More or less of vapor was almost continually ascend-
ing from a vent-hole at the summit, with a periodic increase of intensity,
the intervals of which were not determined. This was at one time
undoubtedly, a very powerful geyser, which has gradually erected an
enormous pyramidal chimney, the bowl being closed by degrees as the
internal forces have slowly decreased in power. Even now there are
unmistakable signs of comparatively modern ejections in the peculiar
ornamentation about the bowl, which One soon learns to recognize as
the result of the action of the falling Water. Some of these markings
are quite coarse, clearly indicating to those who have had a little expe-
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 233
rience in the study of geyser phenomena that the eruptive power was
Sufficient to project the column of Water to a considerable height.
There is no evidence of recent great activity, and the mound may safely
be regarded as a mere thermal spring of small size surmounting the
Chimney of an extinct geyser, which it is steadily closing by the accu-
mulation of its own deposits. Near its base are several fumaroles and
One fair-sized boiling or spouting spring, which possesses, on a small
Scale, all the essential characteristics of some of the simpler geysers.
The ornamentation of the fumeroles is here of the plainest kind, and
there is nothing especially novel or attractive in any of their features,
So far as I was able to observe. Back of the pyramid, at twice its dis-
tance from the river, much vapor was seen ascending from the vicinity
of a series of highly-ornamented springs, with brilliant deposits and
unique walls. Several of these were figured by Dr. Hayden in his
report for 1871, and they are merely mentioned now to show that they
were quite active at the date of our visit to this region. No careful
examination could be made on account of the sudden eruption of neigh-
boring geysers, which diverted the attention from them. On this
account it will be impossible to describe in detail the numerous other
Springs in the basin, of which only the positions were noted.
To sum up briefly, then, the results of observations upon the hot
springs of this section, it may be remarked that while the diversity in
special features, such as size, form, and position of the bowls, the style
and degree of ornamentation, and the temperature of the contents, is
scarcely less than may be observed elsewhere, the general nature of
the deposits and the phenomena of eruption are much the same in all
cases. With but a few exceptions, the springs are grouped about
active or extinct geysers, and it is not uncertain that a large propor-
tion of those here mentioned have themselves been geysers in the past,
while others may yet be proven to be geysers which have never been
seen in action heretofore. It should be remarked that sulphur occurs
as an ingredient in some bowls, though rarely and in small quantity.
Concerning the geological structure of the basin, little need be said in
addition to what has already been given in chapter XI, except that
there is reason to believe that the basaltic layers of the igneous material
are more nearly in the line of the subterranean channels than the
purely trachytic rocks.
Before proceeding to the next main division of this chapter, a small
group of thermal springs above the Upper Geyser Basin, in the same
valley, requires a passing notice. There are only five bowls, and none
of these are remarkably large, but they are interesting from the bril-
liancy of their deposits, and the shape of some of the mounds from
which the water emerges. Although the water was spurted in one of
the bowls to a height of two or three feet, the degree of activity in the
cluster was apparently less than in the majority of the springs of the
Upper Geyser Basin. The “Third Geyser Basin of Fire. Hole River,” a
small area mentioned by Dr. Peale and Professor Bradley, was not seen
by our party.
XVI,-FIRST GROUP ON SOUTEIWEST ARM OF YELLOWSTONE LAKE.
Three miles beyond Camp 47, Captain Jones's trail strikes the lake-
shore near a group of active springs covering a large area along the
bank. Like most of the collections within the limits of the ancient lake
basin, this cluster contains a number of bowls which emerge directly
from the silty deposits, the contents of which are, therefore, more or less
234 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
contaminated by the admixture of insoluble ingredients. Near the
lower end of the group a small muddy flat runs back from the shore
which appears to have been the bed of an ancient stream, if not the
channel of a recent creek during seasons of flood. On this are situated
several mud-bowls and a number of orifices of smaller dimensions, in
which the agitation is not powerful enough to render the contents tur-
bid. Nearer the shore there are several large, clear, or nearly clear
Springs which constantly overflow, sending their surplus into the lake.
The little stream which carries off the waste is so highly heated that one
cannot bathe with comfort ill its track except by Wading for some little
distance into the lake before venturing opposite its entrance. Several
mud-pots occur at a higher level just north of the flat on which the above
are located. South of this point, at a still higher level, there are what
may be called three clusters of springs, although they are not widely
Separated. The first collection comprises a set of half a dozen bowls
of varying dimensions which emerge from the summit of a kind of ter-
race of old hot-spring deposits fifteen feet above the level of the lake at
low water. In several of these the vapor issues with considerable force,
but with a seething rather than a puffing sound.
One Spring has a large bowl about four feet in diameter. Back of
these the members of the second cluster issue from a silty area, for
which reason the contents are mostly turbid or muddy. The third
group is farther from the lake and more elevated than the others, and
may be said to combine, in a measure, the features of them all. The
products are as various as the varying character of the springs would
suggest. The mud-pots deposit about the usual proportion of ferric
hydrate in addition to the other ingredients, and the amount of iron dis-
Solved in the water of the clearer springs is apparently large, judging
from the amount of colloid and confervoid growth which exists wherever
favorable conditions are present for such accumulations. The ornamen-
tation of the margins of the clearer bowls is comparatively simple, and
raised rims are almost entirely absent. Hydrated alumina is a prolni-
ment ingredient, and in some of the ancient deposits it is blended and in-
termingled with the siliceous accumulations in a very interesting manner.
In the past, as now, there has evidently been a close connection between
this group of springs and the Yellowstone Lake, for all the bowls are
situated in a section which has been worked over by the beating of the
waves upon a beach, and the ancient deposits have been greatly modi-
fied since their formation by the same action.
There are certain peculiarities of geological structure in this region
which should be understood in order to fully appreciate the prominent
points of difference between this group and those upon the west of the
divide between the Yellowstone Lake and the Fire Hole River.
In passing eastward from the geyser basins high ridges of basaltic
rocks are crossed, until, when nearing the lake, important outcrops of
dark-brown and black Obsidian are reached. This latter material is
highly porphyritic, and not unfrequently Spherulitic, or even approaching
to what is known as blistered obsidian. -
The heavy accumulations of detritus and vegetable mold obscure the
structure within a mile of the lake shore, but the character of the all-
cient spring-deposits is such as to indicate that the Obsidian porphyry
predominates over a wide area. The section represented in Fig. 35
was taken on the lake shore south of the muddy flat before mentioned.
The lower portion, marked a in the cut, is made up of irregular alter-
nations of conglomerates and other beachy formations, largely com-
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 235
posed of ancient hot-spring deposits. The following list of the forma-
tions exposed in the section includes the more important and peculiar
of these re-arranged layers:
1. Heavy conglomerate, composed of siliceous pebbles of hot-spring
material, firmly cemented, with smaller particles of obsidian distributed
through the mass, occurring near the bottom of the section. This seems
to have been formed by the cementation of the particles of a beach-de-
posit by the action of hot springs containing silica in solution in their
Water. Some of the sintery pebbles are coated with a glistening layer of
Silica, and the obsidian particles, though small, are often brilliant. The
general color of the mass is gray, with a reddish tinge, and it weathers
dark.
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FIG. 35.-Section exposed in a cliff along the shore of Yellowstone Lake, southwest
arm, Hot Spring Group No. 1. a, several kinds of modified spring deposits, mixed with
obsidian fragments ; 10 feet. b, gravelly beach-deposit of hot-spring material and
obsidian ; 1 foot. c, alumina spring deposits; 3 feet. d, vegetable mold covered with
timber. The horizontal scale of this section is approximately one-tenth of the vertical
Scale.
2. Sandy conglomerate near the base, composed of compacted grains.
of white and gray sand, interspersed with black Obsidian Sand, and
larger particles, and occasional nodular pieces of water-worn Spring de-
posits, appearing as white blotches through the mass. Weathers darker
gray than the original color.
3. A bed of light-colored trachyte containing a quantity of irregularly
disseminated granules of an undetermined black mineral, the general
texture being compact, and the specific gravity high ; approaches the
augitic series of volcanic rocks, and might be called a trachydolerite. At
base of the Section. --
4. Ancient hot-spring deposits, inclosing Small stems and roots of
grasses and other light vegetation.
5. Conglomerated hot-spring deposits, and pebbles of Various kinds.
This is rather an agglomerate, the arrangement of the component parts
being quite irregular throughout the mass.
6. Ancient hot-spring deposits shown at c, Fig. 35, modified by per-
colating water. The bulk of the material is a white mineral tinged with
gray, very largely composed of alumina, and possessing properties which
ally it closely to the species known as gibbsite. Much of it is arranged
in layers of several inches in thickness, bound together by alternating
layers of siliceous sinter. The main portion is very friable, except in
unexposed spots, or where the proportion of combined silica is rather








































236 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
large. The action of the water and weathering influences has induced
an irregular cellular structure, which gives a delicate and attractive
appearance to much of it.
The setting-in of a small bay at this point exposes portions of two
sides of the terrace to the action of the waves. Large blocks of the
ancient deposits have been broken off from the cliff and now lie at the
water's edge, to be comminuted for the formation of new lacustrine de-
posits. This is but the continuation of a process which has long been
in operation, and the present bowls are undoubtedly the relics of once
powerful thermal springs in this vicinity. Several caverns were ob-
served in the cliffs beyond the present reach of the Water, although it
is not certain that the waves may not affect them in seasons of high
water. It seems probable, however, that they represent chambers in
the subterranean passages of long extinct springs, which, like similar
expansions at Steamboat Point, and elsewhere, have become exposed
by the wearing away of the cliffs.
XVII.-SECOND GROUP ON SOUTHWEST ARM OF YELLOWSTONE LAKE,
AT HOT SPRING CAMP.
Camp 48 was made August 28, near the southwestern extremity of
Yellowstone Lake, in a grassy park, which has become a favorite rest-
ing place for travelers in this section on account of its admirable loca-
tion at one of the best points for viewing the lake from its shore. The
large number of thermal springs in the vicinity, and on the trail between
this and the foregoing group, may lack interest to the tourist fresh from
the more exciting geysers, but to the student of nature many new and
striking facts are here presented of great importance in the solution of
intricate problems, while much material may also be gathered which
will serve to confirm the results obtained in other localities. Properly
speaking, there is no very distinct line of demarkation, structural or
geographical, between the collection now to be described and the cluster
immediately preceding, for there are many scattered bowls within the
intervening space, each of which may, however, be taken as a represen-
tative of one or other of the two types.
The springs in the immediate vicinity of Hot Spring Camp, nearly
fifty in number, are of two kinds, mud-caldrons, and clear fumeroles.
Those which lie directly upon the shore of the lake are of large size,
with deep bowls of limpid water, besides which several emerge from the
bottom of the lake itself, their positions being indicated by the rising
of bubbles at different points. One of these has built up an inclosing
wall, which separates it from the water of the lake which surrounds it,
and it has become a rather common practice on the part of visitors to
catch the trout from the cool waters and cook them in this spring, with-
out detaching them from the hook, or moving from the spot at which
they are caught. This bowl, with two or three others adjacent, which
may all be the separate outlets of one large subterranean chamber not
far below, are provided with walls of a hard siliceous deposit resembling
the sinter of the geyser basins of Fire Hole River, but darker and less
homogeneous as well as coarser in general texture. There is also a lack
of the delicate ornamentation so common in other sections of the Park.
There is, however, the same azure hue to the water when viewed perpen-
dicularly to its surface. Two of the bowls appear to be separated only
by a kind of bridge, scarcely three feet in width, but of sufficient thick-
ness to support the weight of as many men as can conveniently stand
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 237
upon it. The water is not excessively agitated, neither is it very quiet,
but it throbs rather regularly, with no great display of force.
The remaining springs to be noticed are situated on the main terrace
or flat on which Camp 48 was located, more than twenty feet above the
level of the lake. This bench is formed of ancient lacustrine deposits,
With relation to which the springs occupy much the same position that the
bowls of the preceding paragraph hold with respect to the lake forma-
tions now in progress. In other words, it would seem that the upper
collection was at one time so near an ancient level of the lake that
several of the bowls emerged from beneath its Waters as some of the
lower bowls do at the present time.
This idea is illustrated in the accompanying Section, (Fig. 36,) in which
C

X x G 6
× − x-z-z-z-zº; – º –
6 X- - |
C |
| |
\ |
zas—º
2. Tº
× . TS- |c
FIG. 36.—Positions of hot springs with respect to ancient and present lake-levels.
a a, present level of Yellowstone Lake. b b, ancient level at a given period. c c e c,
surface-contour of ancient and recent lacustrine and hot-spring deposits, c ca, r,
positions of existing springs. Note-For the sake of illustration, the clusters of springs
at a and b are represented on a line perpendicular to the shore of the lake. In reality,
cluster b is thirty rods or more farther north, i. e., down the lake.
the upper line, b b, may be taken to represent a former level of the lake
at a period when the low terrace back of the upper cluster of springs
formed a portion of the bank. This collection lies in a kind of hollow,
showing that its area was included within the limits of a small shallow
bay which here set in at that time. In fact, there is a striking resem-
blance between the ancient condition of this cluster and the present
aspect of the small collection upon the lower mud-flat in group XVI,
the only important difference being in the height of the adjacent bench,
which in the latter case is nearly fifteen feet, while here it is less than
five feet. The comparison may also be extended to the character of the
bowls in the two districts, but beyond this the parallelism fails, for the
springs near Hot Spring Camp are in every respect more vigorous and
important than those described in the preceding section.
It will be unnecessary to describe in detail all the clear bowls of this
vicinity, of which there are several possessing characteristics which
are common elsewhere, but there is one large Spring which, if not
unique, is sufficiently interesting to deserve special mention in this
place. This has a diameter of nearly fifty feet at the surface, tapering
gradually downward to a depth scarcely less, forming a funnel-shaped
bowl, a form which is not unusual in this region. At the date of our
visit (August 28) the cavity was not entirely filled by the water, but
the surface of the Water was bounded by a narrow sloping shore, a few
feet in width. Passing down this to the Water's edge, I was about to
break a piece of sinter from the wall, when I was forced to retrace my
steps rapidly in order to escape from the heated lieuid which was sud-
denly raised in a mass by a steady impulse from below, passing over
the shore like a single wave upon a lake-beach. The impelling force ex-
238 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
hausted, the water then returned in the same steady manuer to about the
same level as at first, and the process of ebb and flow was again and
again repeated at slight intervals with much regularity. This alternate
rising and falling of the contents with an even, throbbing motion, has
suggested a comparison with the beating of the pulse in animals, and
the bowls in which this action occurs have been not inaptly termed
“pulsating springs” on this account. It seems to be partly owing to
this continual oscillation of level, that richly-colored deposits accumu-
late in many spots between what we may call “high and low water
marks.” As in the bowls upon the shore of the lake, the solution is
highly siliceous, but a certain amount of alumina is present, and ferric
hydrate is precipitated to some extent. Conferroidea and colloid mat-
ter do not meet with all the necessary conditions for rapid accumula-
tions in such a place, but they are not wanting in the more quiet bowls.
Mud-puffs.—As before remarked, the great bulk of the formations at
this locality is made up of lacustrine deposits, and these are very
largely composed of the finer or silty layers, although a fair proportion
of gravel is also intermingled in some parts. Fine sections are exposed
along the bank of the lake above and below our camp for several miles.
The addition and more or less complete admixture of the hot-spring
deposits has given a decided siliceous cast to much of the area, which
would otherwise show a preponderance of the lighter alumina. Upon
the outer edges of the upper collection of springs, and particularly upon
the western side, the subterranean Waters have burst through the less
compact material, issuing from the flat as mud-pots or mud-caldrons,
containing pasty masses of somewhat varying consistency. In some of
these the contents are thin and but slightly coherent, so that the boiling
is continuous and not very irregular, while in others the mud is glutinous
or even sufficiently dense to form chimneys about the ebullient centers.
Although there is, then, great variation in the tenacity of the plasma
within a very limited area, it is owing almost wholly to the varying
supply of water, and not, as might be supposed, to any marked differ-
ence in the composition of the mud itself in the different bowls. The
agitated material is minutely divided and most thoroughly mixed by
the constant stirring which it undergoes in the struggling of the Sub-
terranean heat to escape through its mass. Some of the most interest-
ing effects are produced in the more viscous bowls, in which the con-
tents retain permanently the cones which are always at least temporarily
formed by the pressure from below whenever the tension is overcome.
Thus there are exhibited several grades between the simmering spring
and the mud-puff of plastic clay. Several of the latter have one or more
conical chimneys of different dimensions, the largest being not less
than two feet in height, with a circumference at the base of fully four
or five feet. From the apex of these, or occasionally at one side of the
center, the mud is irregularly spurted, often to a height of several feet
above the summit of the cone, and it then falls back upon the outside,
serving to increase the size of the cone. The eruptions are accompanied
by a peculiar hollow sound, which can be heard for some distance. When
moist, the drying mud is usually of a bright pink color from the pres-
ence of ferric hydrate, but excessive evaporation soon precipitates the
lighter-hued ingredients, in which silica and alumina predominate. It
is interesting to note that here, as elsewhere in the Park region, the
boiling surface of the mud-bowls is almost in variably from one to five
or more feet below the general surface surrounding, although the larger
mud-puffs are often raised above the level of the edges of the pits. This
fact, it strikes me, is very important as an aid in determining the source
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 239
of the Water-supply of any given group of springs, and, indirectly, the
possible position of the heating agencies.
No data were obtained for determining the periods of eruption of any
of the springs of this or the preceding group, but some slight indica-
tions of more or less uniform variations of intensity were apparent in
the adjacent markings, though it would be unwise to draw definite con-
Clusions on this point without more convincing evidence, to be obtained
Only by continued observation.
The next group of hot springs, the only one now remaining to be de-
scribed, was visited by a small detached party, which left Camp 48 in
advance of the train, for the purpose of making the ascent of Mount
Sheridan. A brief account of the trip is given in the narrative in chap-
ter I of this report, (Special trip No. X.)
XVIII.--THERMAL SPRINGS AT NORTHEAST BASE OF RED MOUNTAINs,
ON SOURCE OF HEART LAKE.
One of the finest points for obtaining a comprehensive view of the
country south of Yellowstone Lake is to be found at the summit of the
highest peak of the Red Mountains, a limited range of undulating hills
which trend nearly north-south between two of the main sources of the
Snake Biver. The highest peak of this wavy ridge has been known as
Mount Sheridan since the date of Captain Barlow’s expedition, that
gentleman having been the first to ascend it and propose a name.
Heart Lake lies in a deep depression at the eastern base of the range,
three thousand feet below the summit, receiving its water-supply very
largely from the snow-fed streams, which pour their contents down
through deep-cut caſions among the lower hills. Our little party was
Camped in a sheltered spot near the brink of a high fall on One of
these creeks, at the northern end of the range, several hundred feet
above the lake, which was not in sight from that point. We passed a
number of interesting Springs along the banks of the stream, but the
largest and most powerful members of the group were only seen at a
distance. This collection has never been carefully examined, and it is
probable that many new facts of value will yet be gathered here, if one
may judge from the peculiarities of the two following bowls, which re-
ceived some Special attention.
Puffing Spring.—The first to be described is situated on a kind of
platform, upon the right bank of the stream, below the main fall, but
near the side of a rambling cascade. The orifice is not large, and the
vapor, which is constantly emitted, issues from the solid rock, in a man-
ner closely resembling the puffing effusions at the Steamboat Spring,
described in chapter IX, section II. The expanded chamber, which
probably exists at no great distance beneath, is not visible from the
surface. The resonance of the escaping vapor is increased, With the
production of a slight echoing sound, by the Wall of the gorge, which
partially incloses the spot, somewhat after the manner of an amphithe-
ater. The result is a noise not unlike that of a hydraulic-ram in action.
The products are largely siliceous, with a fair proportion of iron and
some sulphur. Alumina is abundant in Several larger bowls lying On
an alluvial flat at a lower level.
Sand Spring.—Just above the falls, nearly opposite our camp, there
is a depression in the bank of the creek, but a little above the present
level of the stream, near its edge, though it rises gradually beyond.
This seems to have been, at a time long since past, au area CoVered by
hot springs. The greater portion is now covered with a thick matting
240 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
of turf, which supports a rank growth of tufted grass. Unsuspicious of
the treacherous nature of the subsoil, of which no indications are visi-
ble, I incautiously sprang across the creek upon the flat, When I imme-
diately sank nearly to the middle in a hot quagmire, from which it was
difficult to extricate myself. The only result of this involuntary bath
Was a thorough soaking of apparel, including heavy under-garments, no
mud adhering to the clothing. This miry patch lies in the track of a
Small outlet from an interesting boiling spring above, the contents of
Which seem to be very largely retained beneath the toughened sod, which
is thereby provided with an abundance of heat as well as moisture for
the Support of its vegetation. A very small portion of the Water is seen
to escape into the creek. The spring referred to lies at the upper end
Of the depression, which is here so narrowed that its Walls almost inclose
the Spring on three sides. There are several centers of ebullition near
the edges, the very hot water boiling up with force, greatly contamina-
ted with white sand, with minute black grains interspersed.
But a comparatively small quantity of Water overflows the bowl, and
this passes off in a sluggish stream, which is soon lost in the quaggy
area, after serving for a time as a support for a brownish, Scummy, col-
loid substance, very similar to masses of the same material elsewhere
described. Silica is the principal deposit, alumina being present only
in small quantity. Some vapor escapes from the surface, but it is not
a marked feature of the locality. The ornamentation of the edges of the
bowl in places washed by the water is not elaborate, nor is it, either,
commonplace; but the decoration is frequently retarded by the mixture
of the suspended sand with the precipitates arising from the condensa-
tion of the Solution.
Hissing Spring.—Just after reaching the basin in which these Springs
are located, a large spring at some distance down the creek suddenly
ejected a dense mass of white vapor to a height of perhaps twenty-five
feet, with a rushing noise which startled us all. This may have been a
veritable geyser, but we were unable to detect any signs of a column of
water from our point of view below the Puffing Spring, one hundred
rods distant. The eruption lasted for about five minutes, the action
ceasing rather gradually. Time, near 3 p.m., August 29.
The mass of the Red Mountain range at this point, including Mount
Sheridan, is made up of trachyte and trachyte-porphyry, the latter pre-
dominating. The greater portion is finely brecciated, and very much
of the exposed part is red from the oxidation of iron, which is a promi-
ment ingredient. This color prevails when the mountains are viewed
from a distance, but a closer inspection reveals the fact that many por-
tions weather white, while not a little of the material presents a
dark steel-blue metallic luster. The red and dark varieties are espe-
cially characteristic of the higher peaks; the white portion, which is
lighter and softer, and thus more easily eroded, being almost wholly
confined to the lower eminences. The small fragments of an irregularly-
prismatic form, into which the rock readily separates on exposure, lie
strewn in immense quantities as a talus Over the steep slopes, often
completely covering the formations beneath, obscuring their structure
while it serves to maintain the mountain physiognomy by preventing
excessive erosion. This latter effect is, however, often carried to an
extreme, resulting in the production of new and Softening features by
the enormous accumulation of this material upon the declivities.
So far as observed, the majority of the springs of the present group
emerge from alluvial or silty areas, although there is little doubt that
all pass through the underlying rock-formations in their course. Many
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 241
other bowls were observed than those described, some of which were of
good size and quite clear, others turbid but not pasty, and a few veri-
table simmering solfataras, besides a large number which were only
i. in the distance while climbing the peak which directly overlooks
them.
CONCLUDING REMAPKS.
It is believed that the four chapters which have been occupied with
the description of the hot springs visited by the writer will be found as
full and complete as is necessary or possible in a work of this nature,
and that while a very large number of the springs hitherto described
from this section have not been here included, a sufficient number of
new facts have been adduced to render the generalizations to be pro-
pounded in another chapter lucid and intelligible. If it be thought that
the five hundred bowls or more, which have furnished the material for
the foregoing descriptions, are not enough to afford ground for the con-
clusions there offered, it must be remembered that the groups examined
are widely scattered and of remarkable variety, while but few collections
now known have been omitted, and these, with one or two exceptions
only, such as possess but a minor degree of interest and few important
features of unique character. It should also be borne in mind that al-
most an equal number of localities were visited by our party, which
have not heretofore been described with any degree of accuracy.
In order to discuss with freedom the nature and action of what may
be termed minor volcanic phenomena, i.e., the phenomena of post-volcanic
activity, it will be necessary to include in the same category all the
hot springs and geysers, for it will be impossible to divide them into
well-marked classes based upon any ground of distinction known at
present. The following chapter is therefore devoted to the description
of such bowls as may be roughly but conveniently separated for that
purpose under the head of Geysers. Before proceeding to that subject,
it may be well to call attention to the existence of large tracts of ancient
hot spring deposits in many places where there are no signs of present
or very recent activity. It is not possible to find words which shall ade-
quately depict the impression left upon the mind of the attentive traveler
in this region concerning the enormous amount of vigor which has been
displayed in the past by innumerable bowls in almost every part of the
district. One is amazed at the remarkable persistency of the heat to the
present late epoch, but the imagination is taxed to its utmost capacity
to conceive of the magnitude of the manifestations which must bawe
taken place at a remote period, though Within recent geological eras.
No special description of the ancient accumulations is necessary, for,
although there is a variety almost marvelous in their texture and com-
position, there are few facts connected with them which are not exemp-
lified in one or more of the groups of existing Springs.
C EIA P T E R XIII.
THERMO-DYNAMICS, CONCLUDED–DESCRIPTION OF GEYSERS AND SUM-
ARY.
Distribution and general remarks—A, Group on East Fork of Madison River—B. Gey-
sers of Lower Basin, Fire-Hole River—C. Geysers of Upper Basin, Fire-Hole River
—Generalizations.
The term geyser, as employed in this chapter, relates to such bowls as
are more or less eruptive in character, in Which the Water is periodically
H. Ex. 285—16
242 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
ejected with force. This classification is in many respects arbitrary and
unsatisfactory, forthereason that it often compels a separation of springs
which cannot positively be said to differ except in power. The majority
of the bowls included under this head will, however, be found to possess
certain peculiarities which point to some important modifications in the
relations of the supplies of heat and water, rendering them in a meas-
ure distinct from the most active of the hot springs previously de-
Scribed.*
A few of the springs mentioned in chapters IX-XII might, perhaps,
as well have been considered in this place, but their position in the re-
port has generally been determined as a matter of convenience in dis-
cussing them.
DISTRIBUTION OF GEYSERS.
Of the eighteen groups of hot springs reviewed in the four preced"
ing chapters, the first three do not possess a single bowl which approaches
the typical geyser. Some of the mud-volcanoes of the fourth group are
eruptive in character, but the ejection of the mud is rather the result of
the restraining and concentrating influence brought to bear upon the
projecting force by the tenacity of the material. No geysers are includ-
ed in the fifth group, nor in the seventh, ninth, eleventh, sixteenth, or
seventeenth groups. The sixth or Wayside Group, on Orange Creek,
in the Yellowstone Valley, contains two or three jets which might not
inaptly be termed pseudo geysers, but their phenomena are essentially
different from those of a true spouting geyser. The same may also be
said of the jets at Gardiner's River, already described, (chapter X,) as
well as those already mentioned in connection with groups XIII, XIV,
and XV. The silica jets of group X are really minor geysers, which
would have been as appropriately described in this chapter as in chap-
ter XI. Thus it will be seen that the bowls which have been reserved
for the present chapter belong to three of the hot-spring localities before
marked out, all of which are connected and not widely separated. It
should, however, be noted that several small geysers are supposed to
exist in the imperfectly-known basin of group XVIII, and another im-
portant collection was discovered by a portion of Dr. Hayden’s com-
mand in 1872, on the shores of the lake at the source of the Snake River,
now known as Shoshone Lake. It is not unreasonable to suppose that
other similar groups will be brought to light by future explorations about
the headwaters of the larger rivers.
The most prominent geysers have received settled names, which have
become as familiar as the bowls themselves to travelers in this region.
These titles are employed to designate them here whenever it has been
possible to determine their application. In some instances new names
have been proposed, but not with a view to their perpetuation unless
they are hereafter found to be original.
A.—EAST FORK (MADISON RIVER) GROUP.
Besides the small jets alluded to in section XII, chapter XI, a few
bowls were noticed in which the stalagmitic appearance caused by the
falling of the water upon the surrounding surface gave evidence of the
existence of real geyser action, although no eruptions were Witnessed.
* The points of difference between the hot spring and the typical geyser can only be
appreciated after a careful review of the prominent characteristics of each. A definition
of the term geyser is given near the close of this chapter, where this difference is also
clearly stated.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 243
This growth, as it may justly be called, is the one distinguishing feature
of the active geyser, by which its character may be determined even in
its quiescent state. As the formation of this peculiar surface is de-
pendent upon the complete evaporation of the water, it is not absolutely
necessary that it should be produced in order to entitle a spouting bowl
to the name of geyser, for a large column of water may be shot high
into the air from the center of a large pool in such a manner as to return
Wholly within the rim. In such cases no fungoid tracery will be formed
Without the bowl, and no evidence of eruption will be found after the
ejection has ceased, except in the marks left by the overflow, which, of
themselves, are not sufficient to determine the character of the bowl.
Judging from the comparative fineness of the excrescences about the
Spouting springs of this group, it may be inferred that the height of the
projected column is never very great, but this criterion cannot be fully
relied on in all cases, because the coarseness of the ornamentation is as
much dependent upon the amount of the falling water as upon the height
from which it falls. In other words, the falling of a large column of
water in a mass may produce the same effect as a smaller body drop-
ping from a considerable elevation.
Another result of geyser action is the building up of a chimney about
the bowl, usually becoming somewhat narrowed as it ascends, so as to
approach more or less closely to a conical shape. In this locality the
raised rims are not high, and the bevel is rather slight. The composi-
tion of the products is the same as that of the surrounding less turbu-
lent springs, silica predominating, but there is less chance for the
precipitation of the iron as ferric oxide, and the red deposits are, there-
fore, less abundant. The main features of the craters are of essentially
the same nature as those described beyond and need not be enumerated
here, but we will proceed directly to the next group.
B.—G-EYSERS OF THE LOWER FIRE-HOLE BASIN.
Upon the ridge containing the mud-caldron and other springs, between
the entrance to the Lower Geyser Basin and our special camp near the
White Dome, there are several interesting geysers, some of which were
fortunately observed in action. For convenience of reference these,
with all the others to be described in this report, are numbered consecu-
tively. Names marked thus * are taken from the reports of Dr. Hayden
and corps; those preceded by a f from other authorities, as Doane,
|Barlow, &c.; the S being used to designate such as are supposed to be
named by the writer for the first time. The descriptions are all given
from personal observation, any additional information used being in-
Variably properly accredited.
1. § Spasm. Geyser.—After reaching the summit of the terrace of
sinter, which forms a part of the lower edge of the ridge mentioned
above, several quiet bowls were passed before reaching one near the
western edge of the bench, which was fitfully spurting a small column
of hot water two or three feet into the air. This was at 3.20 p.m.,
(August 23,) and the same action continued with no apparent diminu-
tion until 5.30 p.m., when it ceased altogether rather suddenly. It is
impossible to state the length of time it had been playing, before we
first observed it, but it will be interesting to note its sympathetical
relations to some adjacent bowls, as remarked beyond. The fungoid
markings, so common about many of the larger geysers, are here repre-
sented by similar excrescences of a rich and delicate structure. The mass
of the sintery deposit is composed of an exceedingly fine-grained White
244 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
silica, the outer and fresher portions being of a shiny yellowish color
When collected, with a surface covered with roughened prominences like
an aggregation of minute coral branches. These are sometimes formed
as little islands, in small shallow pools surrounding the geyser-bowl,
and they appear to have been caused by the interference of opposing
waves produced by the falling water, though this is not definitely

FIG. 37.—Relative positious of geysers on Fountain Terrace, Lower Fire-Hole Basin.
The figures refer to bowls thus numbered in the text. The dotted lines represent
the general course of the outflow from each bowl.
ascertained. Pieces of rope and cloth left here by previous visitors
were picked out of the water in a half-rotten condition, which became
tough and Spangled With Crystalline grains of silica upon exposure to
the air until dried. Some pieces of the rope, which were of a brownish-
yellow color at the end lying out of the water, were bleached to a most
delicate white. Pine cones and chips of wood were also well silicified
by immersion. The size of this bowl is not great, consequently the
larger portion of the ejected water is thrown beyond the edges and falls
without the bowl, mostly upon the lower side. In favorable spots, the
characteristic red deposits are precipitated in the track of the outlet.
2. § Impulsive Geyser.—While watching the pulsations of the Spasm,
a second geyser (2, Fig. 37) suddenly began to spurt, at 3.30 p.m. At
first it sputtered sullenly, and the water was thrown upward but a lit-
tle distance, but gradually the action became more rapid and violent, a
small jet occasionally rising with considerable force to a height of fifteen
feet. The contents of the bowl were thoroughly agitated, but the great-
est activity occurred in the center, the jet being thrown, as it were,
through the middle of the main mass ejected, which may be likened to
a fountain. The falling spray produces remarkable forms of relief, with
a glistening surface, rendered only more attractive by slight discoloration,
which gives it the appearance of the richest ivory. It would be impos.
sible, by the most artistic description, to convey an adequate idea of the
marvelous richness and beauty of this formation as viewed in the light
of the unclouded Sun, and we are forced to resort to comparisons, which,
at best, are very unsatisfactory. If one can imagine the effect of a
million of glittering pººrls, large and Small, arranged without! order over
an uneven surface, crowded and jumbled together in irregular masses,
the very confusion of which lends an added charm, he may be able to
form some faint idea of the surpassing grandeur of nature's workman-
ship in this lonely spot.
As represented in Fig. 37, a large part of the overflow from the Impul-
sive Geyser passes into the bowl of the Spasm, which lies at a little lower
level. The differences observed in the mechanical deposits, as we may
call the peculiar protuberances resulting from the falling of the Water,
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 245
are mainly structural, but the texture, upon which their structure partly
depends, is also more or less distinct. Instead of the compacted powder
Which is eminently characteristic of much of the product from the Spasm,
We have here prevailing an impure porcelain texture. The resulting
forms of relief may be considered respectively, as illustrations of the
Coralline and the mammillary types of structure.
The eruption of the Impulsive Geyser continued until 5.30 p.m., hav-
ing been in operation for two hours. The cessation of the boiling
Was very nearly simultaneous with the close of the eruption in the
Spasm.
3. § Clepsydra Geyser.—The third member of the group is one of the
most regular in the basin, and on this account the name Clepsydra is
proposed for it. Like the ancient Water-clock of that name, it marks the
passage of time by the discharge of water. It would be unwise to num-
ber this among the constant geysers without knowing more concerning its
movements than has yet been gathered, but it was in action during the
whole of the two hours and a half that we were in its vicinity. A large
Imass of water is forced up in a rolling wave, ending in a vigorous but
not greatly elevated spurt, at intervals of three minutes. The mechanical
deposit surrounding this geyser is even more delicate than either of the
forms above mentioned. It is of the coralline type and may be described
in terms of coral-masses, so far as mere general resemblance is concerned,
as a close aggregation of madreporic coralla,” of small but varying sizes,
arranged on a horizontal plane. This parallel can be carried no further,
however, for the numerous corallets* and the connecting coenenchyma,”
if we may use these terms, are of course solid, the process of growth
being wholly similar to the formation of true stalagmites over the floors
of caverns. A piece of wood taken from the bowl of the Clepsydra
was coated with a layer of pure White semi-crystalline silica, resembling
the icing used in confectionery.
4. § Fitful Geyser.—This geyser is quite near the boiling spring repre-
sented in Fig 37, numbered 6. It was in action irregularly all the
time we remained in its vicinity. The main orifice is near one side
of the top of a small heap of sinter, built up by the Water somewhat in the
shape of a leaning cone. Occasionally the aqueous contents were
spurted to the height of three feet above the top, in a coarse jet, but
more frequently the ejections were much less forcible than the accom-
panying sound would seem to warrant. No connecting passage
between this and the adjacent boiling bowl was apparent, but the
action of the latter was such as to suggest some degree of sympathy in
their movements. Some Water also escapes from small bowls near
the base of the chimney, which are constantly agitated, although they
are not necessarily in direct communication With the geyser tube. In
pools formed by the falling water, delicate white pebbles of pure gey-
serite, with a coucentric structure, have been formed, a polished sur-
face being maintained by the frequent movements to which they are
subject. These, as well as portions of the coralline mechanical deposits
about the main orifice, are frequently tinged or colored With rich shades
of pinkish red, when moist.
5. * Fountain Geyser.--While obtaining an interesting specimen of the
porcelain silica which forms a jutting ledge in the boiling spring, (No. 6,
Fig. 37,) the water in No. 5, which had previously been quiet and not
*These terms are employed in the usual Zoological sense, according to Dr. J. D. Dana,
(Corals and Coral Islands.) A corallum is a coral-mass or skeleton, the skeleton of each
pseudo-individual being called a corallet. The comenchyma is the main connecting mass,
which is common to all the polyps of a corallum.
246 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
entirely filled, rose suddenly until the bowl was ready to overflow,
when a large amount was elevated to a height varying from six to ten
feet, in a column of nearly equal diameter. The action began at 4.40
p.m., (August 23,) and the eruption did not cease wholly until 5.40 p.m.
Occasionally very sudden impulses would carry smaller but quite large
columns twenty-five and thirty feet into the air. Sometimes the whole
would gradually die down, and more than once when I thought that
the ejection had ended, a vigorous throb would violently throw the
Water and vapor to its greatest height. The rushing noise produced by
the escaping liquid was very loud, and a subsequent eruption, which
occurred from 7.30 a.m. to 8.30 a.m. on the following morning, was
distinctly audible at our camp near White Dome Geyser, more than
a mile distant. At the close of the first eruption the Water receded in
the bowl, so that we could look down many feet into the large open pit
which was thus formed. In this case, as in all other instances of hot
springs or geysers, which I was able to examine beneath the surface,
the water does not issue perpendicularly beneath the bowl, but in an
oblique direction, and, almost invariably, at one side of the bowl. After
a time, by a series of alternations of level, an equilibrium is restored
and the water comes to rest nearly in its position before the eruption.
The agitation takes place mainly in the portion represented at a in the
cut, b being intended to show the outline of an adjacent bowl which
receives much of the surplus water, but does not appear to be greatly
concerned in the ejection. The ornamentation is peculiar and interest-
ing, varying in fineness of structure according to the distance from the
rim of the bowl. The composition of the deposits is not materially dif-
ferent from that of the accumulations about the neighboring bowls.
The Water in the fountain is very clear, and one obtains a very good
view of the interior of the bowl by looking down through it. The com-
mon azure tint is present, adding greatly to its beauty. A third erup-
tion of this geyser (apparently) began at 1.20 p.m., August 24, the
duration of which was not determined.
6. * White Bome Geyser.—The North Branch of White Creek (see chap-
ter XI) is fed toward its lower end by the drainage from two clusters of
hot springs and geysers lying at a little distance back from the left bank
or edge of the stream. Between these clusters there is a very promi-
ment cone of a once very vigorous geyser, as is evinced by the existence
of an old and important channel, now dry, which then carried off the
surplus Water. The siliceous deposits in this ancient stream-bed are
much weathered, and a few small pines are growing directly in its track.
The White Dome is a conspicuous object in the landscape, rising nearly
or quite 30 feet above the surrounding level. It is composed of a wide
mound more than 15 feet in height, surmounted by a narrower chimney
Inear one side, which is open at the top. The geyser is evidently dying
out and gradually closing its orifice, although it manifests a certain
degree of activity, not sufficient to cause the ejection of very much
water. A sumall amount of vapor is emitted from the chimney without
frequent interruption, but there is considerable variation at times in
the quantity thus given off. -
We slept too soundly to take note of any eruptions which may have
occurred during the night, but three were observed on the morning of
August 24. The first took place at 8.26 a.m., there being little more
than an active Sputtering, which continued for two minutes. Almost
at the same time, one of the geysers, which had been playing vigorously,
in the more southerly cluster, ceased its action. While standing upon
the White Dome, at 10.17 a.m., it again sputtered, and threw water 3
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 247
feet above the apex of the cone during two minutes. From a distance
of half a mile, it was again seen to spout, at 11.20 a. m., with about the
Same degree of force, the eruption lasting the same length of time as in
the preceding instances.
The first two ejections were preceded and followed by a roaring in
the tube, (the third was observed beyond the limit of the sound-waves,)
each period being of nearly three minutes duration, making the whole
time of eruption about eight minutes. Occasional roars were heard for
Some time afterward at irregular intervals.
A portion of the water falls outside of the chimney and courses down
One side, where it has worn a channel in the old deposits of the mound.
A few small holes are exposed along this line, through which more or
less of vapor is constantly escaping. The material of the mound at this
point is a very compact, flinty variety of geyserite, arranged irregularly
in plates, with a clear opal appearing in spots. The exterior is covered
with a dark-brown growth of a scummy substance, which turns black
upon drying, and a perceptible pink tinge, with a few touches of green,
are found beneath and in patches. The recent mechanical deposits
about the mouth of the chimney are compactly granular, breaking
readily into coarse, uneven joints along no particular lines. The surface-
contour is irregular, and the whole when wet has very much the appear-
ance of a mass of white commercial Sponge of a mixed variety, i. e., an
average mass with frequent spots of a very fine-pored variety. In an
ordinary light, small pieces sometimes have a dingy aspect much like
the color of coarse granular salt recently removed from a saturated
greasy brine, but this changes to an extremely delicate pinkish hue in
the full play of the sunlight.
Some excellent specimens of silicified wood were obtained from the
bed of the ancient outflow, with all the structure of the original tissue
without a visible particle of the substance, which is entirely replaced by
the pure white silica. In many cases these are covered by a structure-
less incrustation of the same material, which has often reached a thick-
ness of more than an inch. The inclosed portion is usually very brittle,
the silica showing a tendency toward the granular texture.
7. § 13oiler Geyser.—Besides the hot springs already described, which
lie in a group near the upper end of the vale of White Creek, there are
several geysers of some interest. The Boiler and the following bowl
are not very extensive, but both appear to be constantly in action. The
water in the former rises throbbingly near the center, and falls in a mass
almost wholly within the cup, producing its mechanical deposits upon
the edges by the action of the successive waves which are thus origi-
nated. The resulting formation bears traces of the Wavy ridges which
would be left upon a horizontal or slightly sloping surface of loose ma-
terial, as along a lake-beach, but the undulations being here more rapid
and restricted in breadth, there is less of uniformity in the surface of
the deposit. It is brilliant and glistening, though roughened and much
cut into irregular squares, beads, and other forms of relief. Much of
the grooving, or, more properly, the separation of the several parts of
the relief-work, seems due to the trickling back of the Water after it has
been thrown up by the waves. By this combined action small gullies
are worn out beneath the edges of adjacent raised patches, which give
an appearance of overlap beyond what is real. These deposits were
slightly pinkish when collected, but the color vanishes when the speci-
mens become dry, although the unexposed portions are often flesh-colored
over a surface of fracture. The silica is of a brownish color, usual-
ly, except at the surface, much of which is light gray or nearly White.
248 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
8. § Bead Geyser.—Not far from the Boiler there is a vigorous jet,
which issues from a rather long, narrow fissure, the water falling back
upon the sides in a fine spray. The mechanical deposit is comparative-
ly even, and it consists of a compact aggregation of minute, shiny, glob-
ular grains, which are opaque and of a delicate brown color when dry,
but having a rich pink luster as they lie continually moist in their natural
position. The vertical edge of the rim is somewhat coarser, with the
beady clusters more confusedly arranged. There is a tendency here, as
elsewhere for the compacted deposit to split into more or less regu-
lar cuboidal blocks, resulting in this case in the production of very lim-
ited fissures, and these have been refilled by the infiltration of a pure
white silica, which now traverses the mass as an irregular net-work or
honey-comb of platy veins, serving to cement the parts more firmly to-
gether. Larger fissures, though quite small, are not thus filled, owing
to a deficiency in the Water-supply.
9. § Unknown Geyser.—This name is proposed, provisionally, for a
bowl which has been mentioned in a previous chapter under the head of
Hot Springs, but which offers such unmistakable evidence of past geyser
phenomena that its peculiarities deserve special consideration in this
place. No signs of very recent activity were apparent, nor is there any
reason to believe that previous observers have witnessed an eruption,
and yet the adjacent deposits exhibit very little appearance of extensive
weathering. The shallow pools which have received the falling water
were wholly dry in 1873, and a large number of the characteristic peb-
bles of geyserite are present, showing the results of much disturbance,
luany being lozenge-shaped, others polyhedral. Numerous mammillary
pillars project from the surface like so many stalagmites to a height of more
than an inch, with horizontal diameters varying from a quarter of an inch
to nearly two inches. The tips of these have the glistening leaden hue
which characterizes the Water-polished siliceous surfaces about active gey-
sers, while the sides possess the peculiar yellowish tints and roughened
prickly surface which belong to portions submerged in pools containing
hot solutions of silica, The material is a very compact opaliferous gey-
serite, a cross-section of a pillar presenting a glittering surface, with
several concentric bands, caused by the darkening of the color toward
the center. The common tints are three, arranged more or less dis-
tinctly, with dark gray in the center, brownish-yellow between, and
white, with a yellowish-tinge, at the circumference. Little or no agi-
tation of the contents of the bowl was observed at the time of our visit,
(August 24.)
10. * Young Hopeful.—This name appears in Professor Bradley's report,
1872, designating a small bowl of the group which we are now consid-
ering. It spouts rather irregularly, with active and quiescent epochs of
one or two minutes duration. The water is thrown in a jet, varying in
height from three to nearly ten feet.
The mechanical deposits are not of special interest. Another small
geyser near this spot throws the liquid in much the same manner, but
with shorter intervals, and to a height of a few inches only. Both of
these bowls are probably constant, or perpetual in action, for they seem
to have been observed by all the parties which have heretofore visited
the locality in which they occur.
11. * Steady Geyser.—About a dozen rods eastward from Young Hope-
ful, there is a basin which receives a portion of its overflow after it has
become somewhat cooled by passing through a pool of its own. The
contents of this lower basin are almost continually agitated by the ejec-
tion of a column of water from beneath a ledge or mound near one side,
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 249
Causing the jet to rise somewhat obliquely. The extreme altitude of the
Column at the time of our visit did not exceed twenty feet, and it rarely
ascended less than fifteen feet. The falling spray mostly mingles with
the Contents of the pools, so that the mechanical deposits are less re-
markable than in many parts of the Lower Basin. In some of the cooling
pools at this point, there occurs a quantity of the yellowish-brown gelat-
inous material so abundant elsewhere, but it is here so thinly distrib-
uted as to give the water the appearance of a yellow liquid at a little
distance.
Several other important geysers were observed in action during
Our stay in the Lower Basin, but we were, in such cases, so far removed
from them that it was not possible to obtain any information of suffi-
cient value to merit record here.
In the Half-Way Group, (XIV, chapter XI,) there are one or two ap-
parently constant geysers, in which the water is thrown in fine jets to
a height of three or four feet. At first sight, there appears to be no
essential difference between such bowls and those spouting springs
which have elsewhere been excluded from the class of geysers, but a
more careful examination proves that they manifest certain peculiarities
of eruption belonging only to Veritable geysers. The falling water
here returns almost wholly into the bowl, so that no mechanical de-
posits of importance are formed about their rims.
C.—GEYSERS OF THE UPPER, FIRE-HOLE BASIN.
12.f Old Faithful.—At the extreme upper end of the Upper Basin, on
the left bank of the Fire-EHole River, there are several white mounds or
domes which mark the ancient position of as many extinct geysers.
One, now active, stands by itself upon a broad table, as it were, with a
succession of irregular steps extending downward to the edge of a low
cliff at the river-side, some ten rods distant or more. The contents are
ejected through an elongated opening in a one-sided chimney, which rises
perpendicularly to a height of fifteen feet above the upper step. Its
appropriate name was given by Doane and Langford, on account of the
approximate regularity of its action. The following table, originally
published in the American Naturalist,” gives the particulars of eleven
successive eruptions Which occurred during a portion of the time which
we spent in this locality.i
TABLE.
Number of eruption. Date. Eruption began. Eruption ceased. | Duration. intº Of
h. m. s. h. m. s. 7??. S. h. m. S
1 --------------------- Aug. 25, 1873 || 10 3S 00 a.m. || 10 43 00 a. m. 5 00 1----------------
2 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ----do ------- 11 36 00 a. m. 11 41 30 a. m. 5 30 0 58 00
3. -------------------- ----do ------- 12 39 00 p.m. | 12 44 00 p.m. 5 00 0 57 30
4 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ----do ------- 1 41 15 p.m. || 1 45 45 p.m. 4 30 0 57 15
5. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ----do ------- 2 45 20 p.m. 2 50 00 p.m, 4 40 0 59 35
6 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ----do ------. 3 53 35 p.m. || 3 58 00 p.m. 4 25 1 3 35
7 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ----do ------- 5 11 10 p.m. || 5 15 40 p.m. 4 30 0 47, 25
8. --- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - do ------- 6 3 15 p.m. || 6 07 45 p.m. 4 30 0 47 25
9. -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - do ------- 7 12 00 p.m. ||------------------|------------ 1 4 15
10 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - do ------ 8 14 00 p.m. ------------------|------------|----------------
11 --------------------- do ------- 9 17 00 p.m. ------------------|------------|----------------
Average duration and quiet interval.--...--------------------------. 4 33% 0 56 40

* Vol. viii, March, 1874, p. 160. The first eruption given here was omitted in the
Naturalist. -
# I take pleasure in acknowledging obligations to Lieut. S. E. Blunt, astronomer, for
the record of several of these eruptions, in addition to other favors.
250 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
A description of the second eruption will serve as an illustration of
the custounary phenomena, there being but slight differences in any of
the succeeding ejections. At 11.28 a.m. the geyser began to spurt a
little, but barely enough to throw a slight amount of water over the
sides of the chimney, although a constant rumbling was kept up below.
At 11.36 a. m. a heavy mass of water was suddenly thrown out in a
magnificent jet to the height of nearly 150 feet, and the accompanying
column of Vapor ascended to a much greater altitude. This continued
quite steadily for two minutes, when the intensity gradually decreased
With an Occasional vigorous spurt, until 11.41.5 a. m., the rumbling and
internal Sputtering continuing for some minutes, during which a small
amount of vapor quietly escaped from the orifice of the chimney. At
least a dozen eruptions of Old Faithful were witnessed without record,
for Want of accurate observation. In every case the force of the ejec-
tion was much the same, but the duration of the premonitory and sub-
Sequent Sputterings was quite variable. In the third eruption given in
the table, the first spurt occurred only three minutes before the ejection
began, and the preliminary agitation in the fourth eruption took place
but two minutes previously.
The sides of the chimney of this geyser are covered with a very deli-
cate mechanical deposit, which may be compared to an aggregation of
immense quantities of minute pearls so arranged as to simulate irregu-
lar but crowded masses of grayish-white coral of the finer varieties.
In the broad but shallow pools about the base of the chimney, there
were no geyserite pebbles, but each pool had a beautiful pinkish bed,
tesselated by the falling water in such a manner as to give it the appear-
ance of a pebble-paved floor. There is a distinct cleavage line, marked
by the grooves between the pseudo-pebbles. The latter vary in size
from that of a grain of wheat to those which have diameters of nearly
or quite two inches. The mass of the deposit is composed of remarka-
bly pure, glittering, pearly silica. There is sufficient evidence that the
tesselation is caused by ripples induced in the pools by the agitation of
the water, and the resulting structure is not widely different from that
of the mechanical deposits about the rim of the Boiler Geyser, (ante, 7.)
Notwithstanding the abundance of the deposits of Old Faithful, it seems
certain that it is of comparatively recent origin, for there are large quan-
tities of silicified wood imbedded in the track of its outlet, and even
among the outer layers of the chimney itself. As a rule, the cellular
texture is not wholly obliterated, although the original form of the wood
is often scarcely discernible. Specimens obtained are usually very brit-
tle and much penetrated with intercalated silica.
13. * Castle Geyser.—At some distance down the stream, upon the same
side as Old Faithful, a prominent mound rises above the general Surface
to a height of twenty feet, with a huge chimney more than fifteen feet
in height, ascending from a point near the center. About the edges of
the latter are abundant mechanical deposits, some of which are of the
coarse varieties, which everywhere indicate a high fall, or, more Com-
monly, the thud of a heavy column of water. The geyserite is extremely
compact, as in No. 12, but, unlike the greater portion about Old Faith-
ful, the exposed surface is here quite generally polished, possessing the
peculiar leaden luster noticed in some of the deposits from the Lower
Geyser Basin. The same feature is strikingly displayed in parts sub-
jected to the overflow in some steaming pools near the base of the gey:
ser, but with less of the bluish tint, which seems in some way connected
with the descent of the Water.
When we entered the basin, early on the morning of August 25, the
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 551
Castle was roaring vigorously, and a small amount of vapor escaped
steadily from the vent at the summit. This gradually dwindled, and
no eruption took place until the following day, although spurts of two
or three feet only occurred at irregular intervals. Shortly before 4 p.
m. on the following day, a large mass of water was ejected in a column
which was maintained for ten minutes at a height of nearly thirty feet.
Leaving the basin one hour later, the roaring which continued after the
eruption was still very audible at a considerable distance. From this it
may, perhaps, be justly inferred that an eruption had taken place just
before our arrival on the previous day. There was a certain fitfulness
of action before and after the main ejection, all of which may properly
be considered as part of one eruption lasting more than an hour. We
observed the phenomena from a little distance, when we were unable to
devote any time to special examination.
There are several small boiling pools near the base of the geyser, and
a round steaming caldron on one side. One pool is almost a geyser,
throwing the water two feet into the air.
14, f Giant Geyser.—Near the edge of the main stream, upon its left
bank, below the Castle, there is a large conoid chimney ten feet in height,
open down one side, so that one might pass in through the gap. The
thickness of the wall is not very great, nor is it remarkably thin. In
the past there has evidently been much and vigorous agitation of the
pool, which is now in a constant state of ebullition but a little below
the surrounding surface-level. Doane, Hayden, Langford and others,
have witnessed and described eruptions of great power, but there is Llo
record of important ejections since 1871. In 1873, the action was con-
stant, the water being rarely thrown in successive jets to a height of
three feet or less above the summit of the encircling wall, but as a rule
the column did not rise sufficiently to throw the liquid over the edges.
This is one of the most noticeable geysers in the whole basin, on account
of its raised portion, which has been entirely built up by the evapora-
tion of the water ejected from the pool within. The exterior is dark-
colored, unlike many of the other chimneys, and the rather coarsely
granular geyserite of which the wall is partly composed has a tawny
yellow tinge. Smoothly-worn lozenge-shaped and polyhedral pebbles
were obtained from shallow pools adjacent to the cone. The come itself
is elevated somewhat above the general surface, resting upon a slight
terrace formed of geyser deposits. Several other pools, which seem to
have more or less of sympathy in action with the Giant, are situated
near it, and some are provided with interesting rims. One large open-
ing of this kind, in a flat-topped mound three feet in height, spurted ten
feet in sudden jets.
15. * Grotto Geyser,-About thirty rods down the stream from the Giant,
and at some distance back from the Water, there is an irregular mound
with several lateral orifices, through which the Water is forced during
an eruption. By this means the main current is thrown over a ridge
into a pool behind, and a large portion of the ascending column of Water
is converted into a very fine spray. The markings over a considerable
surface are, therefore, exceedingly regular and remarkably fine, resem-
bling a smooth white floor inlaid with glittering pearls. Large slabs
of this material, three-fourths of an inch in thickness, can readily be
detached without injury, but the geyserite is rather brittle and does not
bear transportation Well. t
We witnessed but one eruption, which began at 2.17 p.m., August
25, continuing uninterruptedly till 3.03 p.m., when it ceased altogether.
The water was ejected with much force in two irregularly-alternating
252 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
columns, proceeding from the two large conical chimneys of which the
mound is made up, and from several intermediate Openings of small
size. The volume of Water and vapor was large, and a good-sized stream
was formed by the surplus, which ran off down the hill to the river.
The maximum height was nearly twenty-five feet. According to Dr.
Peale, the duration of this eruption was less than one-half that of two
witnessed by himself in 1872, and the intensity, as measured by the
mean height of the eruption, was also less in 1873, judging from his
report.
16. * Riverside Geyser.—A little below the Grotto, across the river, a
geyser which is situated near the edge of the stream began to spout at
2.43 p. m. This is known as the Riverside Geyser. A jet of fine spray
was very suddenly thrown more than thirty feet into the air, which
continued quite steadily until 2.47.5 p.m., when it ceased acting for
one-half minute; then it played weakly for two minutes, ceasing again
for half a minute, then played again rather vigorously until 2.53 p. m.,
(two and one-half minutes). At 2.54 p. m. it roared loudly and became
Quiet at 2.56 p. m., after which no action occurred. The Riverside has
a low, irregular mound, with a small chimney Scarcely rising near its
center. When quiet, however, there is little about it to attract the
attention of the passer along the trail.
17. * Fan Geyser.—While watching the pulsations of the Grotto, a col-
umn of vapor was evolved from a geyser upon the right bank of the Fire-
Hole River, a few rods below the Riverside. This began at 2.43 p.m.,
almost precisely at the moment when the eruption began in the
Riverside. Gradually increasing in intensity, it was throwing a large
column of water at 2.49 p.m., which continued, but gradually diminish-
ing, until 2.54 p.m., at which time it almost ceased, sputtering occasion-
ally, however, until 2.56 p. m. This record shows a remarkable simi-
larity or sympathy between the Fan and the Riverside. Dr. Hayden
states (Geological Survey of Montana, &c., 1871, p. 124) that the Fan
is composed of a close cluster of five orifices which play together. The
column is very interesting, spreading out broadly owing to the cross-
play of the several streams.
18. * Grand Geyser.—Returning to camp, laden with specimens, When
nearly opposite the Castle we were recalled by the shouts of several of
the party who were standing near that geyser. Passing down the river
a few rods, upon the right bank, we saw a heavy mass of water rising
in a square pool at the foot of a cliff some ten rods back from the stream.
With a rush of wonderful power the column of dark blue liquid ascended
nearly two hundred feet, mingled with a cloud of dense white vapor,
which rose to a much greater height. This tremendous fountain was
kept suspended during five minutes, from 4.01 p.m. to 4.06 p.m., by a
series of successive fierce impulses which caused the surrounding plat-
form of geyserite to tremble with the shock. The water then receded
in the bowl, passing entirely out of sight and remaining quiet during one-
half minute; then playing vigorously for one minute, in the same manner
as at first, it again receded and remained quiet for one minute, afterward
playing once more even more fiercely than before for two minutes, re-
maining quiet from 4.11 to 4.12, and then continuing with more or less
of vigor until 4.12.5 p. m. At 4.17.5 p.m. vapor issued from the mouth
of the bowl, and water was ejected at 4.20.5, continuing until 4.24, when
the action ceased, the water, as in every case, receding to a great depth.
Spurting took place at 4.28.5, gradually increasing in intensity, with
occasional jets, until 4.31, when it again spouted two hundred feet till
4.32.5 p.m. Remaining quiet until 4,48.5, it again spurted several times,
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN wyoming. 253
less rapidly than before, but very gradually increasing in power and
frequency till 5.47 p.m., when the action wholly ceased.
The mechanical deposits about the Grand Geyser are of much beauty,
being highly polished and of a glistening ivory tinge. The falling water
is very largely broken into fine spray before it reaches the ground, so
that the protuberances are often quite delicate, but there is a certain
irregularity of arrangement which rather adds to the general effect than
Otherwise. Perhaps the nearest approach to a satisfactory parallel will
be to compare a portion of the common ornamentation to a siliceous base
Covered with a jumbled arrangement of miniature teeth of various ani-
mals without regard to classification. Such comparisons are, however,
of little value, at best. There is not a little variation in size of the com-
ponent parts, according to the action of the water at different points.
Sometimes the excrescences are so minute and so densely crowded as to
appear globular, giving an irregular surface much the aspect of a coarse
Oolite or pisolite; other masses, often more or less like small imbedded
bowlders, present an appearance upon the upper surface, in many respects
similar to the finer varities of Meandrina, or “brain-coral.” In the wash
at a little distance from the geyser, a beautiful specimen of snowy-white
Silica was obtained, which had been honey-combed by the solvent action
of the hot water passing over it. There is more or less of variation in
the quality and texture of the deposited material, as is shown by the
differences observed in successive layers. Some of the geyserite is pure
white, some brown, and green, pink, and even black, are not unfrequently
Seen in spots or in distinct layers.
It should be remarked, that notwithstanding the expressed contrary
Opinion of Dr. Hayden, based upon observations of several eruptions, the
Writer is strongly in favor of the idea that the Grand Geyser is to some
extent in sympathy with the three following, for reasons which will be
suggested beyond.
19. * Turban Geyser.—Just above the Grand Geyser and but a few feet
distant there is an oblong pit ten by twenty feet and six feet in depth,
With a large passage at one end through which it is fed from below.
Shortly before an eruption, as is common in the geyser basins, the water
rises so as to fill the pit. At 4.09 p. m., August 25, during one of the
spoutings of the Grand Geyser, the water in the Turban was agitated,
boiling up in a powerful throb to a beight of three feet, with occasional
protracted spurts varying from twenty to thirty feet. At 4.12.5 the
water receded|far down the subterranean passage; at 4.17 p.m. vapor
ascended, followed by water at 4.17.5, after which the agitation was
variable in degree, being continued without interruption until 5,40.
Prequently during the eruption quantities of Water poured over the rim
of the bowl, a considerable portion flowing directly into the mouth of
the Grand Geyser, and apparently producing an important effect upon
the action of the latter. -
The Turban is named from the occurrence of large globular masses of
geyserite within the rim, which are ornamented in such a manner as to
suggest the form of the Turkish head-dress to one of an imaginative
turn of mind. A fine-grained mechanical deposit taken from near the
bottom of the pit after the eruption resembles a piece of sponge with
minute “pores,” (inhalent apertures,) and quite large “ oscula,” (exhalent
apertures.) In general, the deposits are coarser and quite firm in texture.
20. * Saw-Mill (?) Geyser.”—Just beyond the Turban, down-stream, a
* The Saw-Mill Geyser laid down on Hayden's Map of the Upper Geyser Basin, pub-
lished in his report for 1871, is not the one referred to here, but Dr. Peale and others
have used this name in such connection as to lead me to suppose that this is the one
to which the name is applied in their Works.
254 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
small orifice, not more than 5 or 6 inches in diameter, would be over-
looked if not observed during an eruption. The mixed vapor and
water ascends in a vigorous jet several feet in height, with a kind of
puffing noise, or, more properly, with a sound like the continuous escape
of steam under pressure, interrupted by occasional sudden puffs, when
the column ascends to a height of 10 or 15 feet. The puffing noise is
also present as the eruption dies out by successive irregular spurts.
On the 25th of August, this geyser began to play quite Suddenly at 4.11
p. m., ceasing action with the Turban and the Grand at 4.17.5 p. m.
Vapor again issued at 4.18, and water at 419, the eruption continuing
constantly until the others also ceased, at 5.40. -
21. § Tardy Geyser.—A fourth went near the Saw-Mill (?) gave rise to
a small jet during the height of the second eruption of that geyser, and
it may be but a waste-pipe for this when full. The Tardy Geyser began
to play about 4.26.5 p.m., August 25, and continued in action nearly to
5.40 p. m. The Water rose to a maximum height of only 3 feet above
the surface.
22, 23, 24. § Trinity Geysers.--This name is used for convenience in
designating three bowls, which have, perhaps, been otherwise named.
So far as can be determined, however, from any Writings upon this
subject, no record of any eruption has been published. We had left the
vicinity of the Grand Geyser late in the afternoon of August 25, and
were hastening to our camp at the upper end of the basin, when we
were startled by the eruption of another geyser at the edge of a broad
terrace just above us. This began at 6.30 p.m., continuing till 6.35.5
p. m. The water proceeded from a mound raised some 3 feet above the
terrace, having a diameter of 5 or 6 feet. The water reached a height
of 75 feet or thereabout. Another geyser very near spouted at 6.33
p.m., ceasing wholly at 6.35. This had a similar orifice and chimney,
not quite as high as the preceding, but the column of water was of
nearly the same dimensions. A third geyser, with little or no raised
walls, but with a fair-sized pool, but a few feet from the others, spurted
at 6.37 for a few minutes, throwing the liquid about 60 feet into the air.
From their apparent connection they have received the provisional
name of the Trinity Geysers. We were unable to devote sufficient time
to their study; hence these few data.
25. f Giantess.-This geyser, which is situated on the right bank of
the Fire-Hole River, near a portion of our camp, (No. 46, August 25,)
was not seen in action by any of our party. In fact, but two or three
eruptions have as yet been Witnessed, and it is probable that its quies-
cent intervals are of great duration, although it is one of the most
powerful bowls in the world. There is little in its aspect and surround-
ings to indicate its power, and its subterranean structure is very
obscure.
SUMMARY.
The geysers, which have been described from the Upper Fire-Eſole
Basin, comprise, with the exception of the Giantess, those which were
observed in action by the writer of this report. They also constitute
the principal members of the great group to which they belong, and
several are included which have not before been known to eject a col-
umn of water. In the Lower Basin a few of the principal bowls were
not seen by the writer; hence, no descriptions of these have been given,
but enough has been offered to show all the prominent features of the
eruptive springs of the district.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 255
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN HOT SPRINGS AND GEYSERS.
Hot Springs.-We have seen that in some bowls which have been
classed as mere thermal springs there is more or less of constant or
periodical eruption. A careful examination, however, will almost inva-
riably show a marked difference in the character of the phenomena
attendant upon the projection of the elevated liquid.
In the ordinary hot spring the spurting of the liquid, when it occurs,
is owing to a resistance offered to the direct escape of the expansive
force from below, and this resistance may be found in the tenacity of the
liquid contents of the bowl, in the untoward shape of the bowl or its
connected passages, or in the sudden restriction of the orifice near the
Surface of the liquid. In either case the uprising force is condensed,
as it were, near one point, and the spurt or eruption is caused by the
sudden overcoming of the tension when the force has become sufficiently
concentrated to free itself from its confinement. Thus we may meet
with a great variety of spouting thermal springs, resulting from two or
more of these causes combined, and the force may be produced by heat
alone or by the evolution of carbonic acid or other chemical change in
addition. (See Fig. 38.)
Geysers.—The phenomena observed in connection with the typical
geyser, however, do not admit of such a simple explanation ; and there
is much doubt whether existing theories are sufficient to account for
all the common manifestations of such agitated bowls. Almost without
exception, in the true geyser, the action, whether frequent or the reverse,
is intermittent, although the successive periods in each case may be
Quite irregular. Without entering upon a lengthy discussion of this
interesting subject, it will be necessary to enumerate several of the pe-
culiar features of geyser-eruptions which serve to distinguish these
bowls from the mere eruptive thermal springs. Usually, as the first
indications of an approaching eruption, there will be noticed an escape
of vapor, soon followed by a sudden rising of a mass of water sufficient
to fill the surface-chamber of the geyser. The phenomena which follow
are very largely the result of structural features of varying nature, no
doubt, but it will invariably be found that the eruption takes place
near the center of the bowl, and that the elevation of the column of
water is accomplished by continuous or successive throes from one spot,
while in the ordinary eruptive springs the column is seldom shot up-
ward from the same point twice in succession. We must, therefore,
believe that the propelling power in the geyser acts temporarily and
suddenly, while in the common hot Spring, quiet, boiling, or eruptive,
constant or periodical, the force is evolved with considerable regularity.
The idea which the writer desires to convey will be rendered more evi-
dent by the comparison of Figs. 38 and 39. Fig. 38 shows the supposed
section of a common eruptive spring ; and it will readily be seen that
jets may even occur in cold springs of this structure, provided a quan-
tity of carbonic-acid or other gas is struggling to free itself from beneath
the ledge at 0. In Fig. 39, which is intended to represent the supposed
condition of the subterranean geyser-Waters in the first stage of an
eruption, the reservoir a is supposed to contain water which remains
in equilibrium nearly at the level ss. By constant accessions of heat
from below, the vacant passage above is finally filled with vapor, and
by degrees the water in the bent passage c becomes heated, and evolves
vapor also, as in o. After a time, the expansion of the vapor in b is
able to overcome the combined pressure of the Water and vapor in c and
o, when the latter is forced out, followed by a portion of the water in
256
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
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apable of explaining the
hey are known, and the variations observed in special
repeated. This theory seems c
the reservoir a. The force thus expended
the receding of the column of water in a
FIG. 38.—Ideal section of a thermal eruptive-spring.
direction of the action of the subterranean force.
the entrance of the surface-bowl.
jets.
-Ideal section of an intermittent
IG. 39
F
eruption during the escape of vapor,
are indefinitely
facts so far as t


















RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN wyoming. 257
cases, or even in different eruptions of the same geyser, appear to the
Writer to require but slight modifications of the section, and none that
are of great importance. The passage c may be kept filled with water
by means of the surplus which falls back into the bowl.
Bunsen's theory of geyser action, which has not yet been proven inade-
Quate to explain the more prominent features of eruptions, does not seem
sufficient (to the writer) to account for all the differences between
the geyser and the mere hot spring, but it must not be inferred that
Such excellent authority is disregarded. On the contrary, the author
proposes the structural hypothesis simply as a supplement to the super-
heating theory of Dr. Bunsen, in order to explain surface phenomena
Common in the Fire-Hole basins, which appear to require an extension
of his views. At the same time it must be confessed that there are ob-
jections to his theory, based upon these observations, which are difficult
to reconcile. It will be impossible to present these here, but an outline
of the theories in question is appended. Bunsen has shown that an
eruption may be artificially produced by introducing steam near the
base of a long, narrow column of water, which causes the water, as it
rises under pressure, to become superheated, the surplus heat being
used for the production of more steam, which adds to the elevating force.
His admirable theory, of which the above experiment is an illustration,
is based upon a series of ingenious observations among the hot springs
of Iceland. Bischof adopts an opinion almost identical with the struct-
ural hypothesis here proposed, and the present author, it will be remarked,
combines the two theories, believing both necessary to explain all the
facts observed.
ORIGIN AND PRESENT SOURCE OF III: AT-SUPPLY.
It is not to be doubted that the origin of the heat evolved in these
springs must be sought in the causes which have led to the pouring out of
the immense floods of igneous material which now cover the area over
which they are distributed; and yet there are so many elements of un-
certainty connected with the distribution of the bowls that a thorough
discussion of the subject would scarcely be possible, were it advisable to
enter upon it here. The present source of the heat-supply is equally
difficult to determine on account of the very meager knowledge which
we possess of any of the phenomena, as well as our ignorance of the
intimate geological structure of the district. We have now learned just
enough to make further investigation most desirable, and it is to be
hoped that measures may be taken without delay for the prosecution of
researches in a field which promises results of most extraordinary impor-
tance if properly cultivated.
Chemical changes, déc.—While it is probable that the seat of the heat-
supply is far below the present surface, there is every reason to believe
that the character and intensity of the eruptions are very much influ-
enced by the supply of Water from above-ground, and some data Were
collected which seem to prove that certain chemical changes under
ground produce a very appreciable effect also. Carbonic acid certainly
exerts a power in the propulsion of the water in not a few of the Springs,
and its similar action in some of the geysers is much more than suspected.
Some hints of the results of analyses of the various thermal Waters,
kindly furnished by Dr. Heizmann, lead to suspicions of like results
caused by other chemical changes, but little is definitely known concern-
ing them. -
H. Ex. 285——17
25S RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WWYOMING.
IMIISCELLANEOUS NOTES.
Peyserite pebbles.—As remarked in several places in this chapter, many
of the principal geysers in both basins of the Fire-Hole River are sur-
rounded by shallow pools in which are found well-worn pebbles of
geyserite, with more or less of a concentric structure. These were at
first supposed to be accretions formed by the continual addition of silica
from the falling Water. Careful observation and the subsequent study of
the various mechanical deposits have led me to an opposite conclusion,
however. Many of these pebbles are polyhedral, but the concentric
layers of these, as in other cases, are arranged in bands, with oval or
circular cross-sections, not corresponding with the external configuration.
Moreover, an examination of the external layer of polyhedral specimens
shows that it has been worn away in parts, proving conclusively that
the pebbles have been reduced from forms with a more or less curved
outline. These pebbles have, therefore, been worn down to their present
shape, by attrition in their pools, and they have no doubt been first
formed as ordinary mechanical deposits, in the form of protuberances
over the general surface, or as divisions of a tesselated patch, like por-
tions of the platform near the base of Old Faithful Geyser. (No. 12, this
chapter.)
Silicified wood.—That a very large portion of the petrified wood now
found in the volcanic district has become so without the intervention of
thermal springs is scarcely to be doubted in the light of the abundant
evidence which has been gathered of the more direct action of the waters
percolating through the igneous material. Still we are, perhaps, not
warranted in adopting the conclusion that the process of silicifica-
tion was necessarily widely different from that now in progress in the
vicinity of many hot springs, for it is probable that very much, if not
all of it, was accomplished by the action of heated water. (See chapter
IX.) The amount of petrifaction now taking place about the thermal
springs is comparatively small, though in some localities a considerable
Quantity is subjected to the influence of the water. The process is more
complete and uniform in the neighborhood of the quieter bowls than
usually about the active geysers. In the hot spring the soaking of the
wood is much more complete, and, though the silicification may be much
retarded, the entrance of the siliceous solution into its substance is
thereby greatly facilitated. On the other hand, the outflows from the
geysers being more plentiful and vigorous, the fragments of wood are
Quickly coated with nearly pure silica, but thorough penetration is almost
impossible, unless they are so situated as to be almost constantly boiled
within the bowl.
Evidences of former floods.-Not only in the geyser basins of the Fire-
Hole Valley, but in several other regions of thermal springs, as at Gar-
diner's River, the locality of the Wayside Group, &c., there are unmis-
takable signs of inundation at some undetermined time in the past,
the extent of which it is very difficult to imagine. In some portions of
these districts the trees are marked for two feet above the base of the
trunk with a white incrustation, giving them something of the appear.
ance of the Whitewashed trees in an orchard. It would certainly be impos-
sible that any such traces should be left by snow remaining upon the
ground for any length of time, and there seems no alternative but to regard
these markings as a relic of a time not very long gone, when the areas
in question were overflowed by siliceous waters to the depth mentioned.
If it be true, then, that the overflow from the included bowls has been
so enormous during modern times, it becomes a question of very great
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 259
interest what can have caused such an increase in their intensity. No
facts can now be given to aid materially in the solution of this problem,
but it may be stated, in closing this lengthy review of the subject of
thermo-dynamics, that this is but one of a hundred equally interesting
Subjects which press upon the attention of the investigator in these
barts. When it is considered that all the facts which have thus
far been gathered have been recorded during the driest season of the
year, and that no observations at any one locality have extended over
a period of a single week, it may be well esteemed most fortunate that
We have even gained the little knowledge which we now possess of these
remarkable phenomena. May the day be not far distant when a com-
plete Series of careful, constant, extended, and connected observations
º be undertaken, to be continued through all seasons for a number
Of years,
C EIA P T E R X [V.
ARCHAEOLOGY, WITH MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF EASTERN SHOSHONES.
I. Archaeology—a. Wrought flakes—b. Spear-heads and arrow-heads—c. Stone circles
and other relics of sun-worshipers (?)—d. Stone columns, graves, &c.—e. Rock-
inscriptions. II. Eastern Shoshones or Washakie band—a. General and social char-
acter—b. Traditions and superstitions—c. Expression of emotions—d. Society,
government, &c.—e. Musical expression—f. Ornament and “medicine” forms.
There are very few portions of our western territory which do not
furnish some evidences of the former existence of Indian tribes other
than those now occupying the given areas. Relics of various kinds are
not absent from the district now under discussion, although such are by
no means extremely common in this region. The present and the follow-
ing chapter are devoted to the very brief discussion of those which have
come under the notice of the author, together with some account of the
manners, customs, and language of the present inhabitants of the Wind
River Valley, commonly known as Washakie's band, or Eastern Shoshones.
The material for this review, with one or two exceptions,” consists
entirely of personal notes obtained on the march and in camp, in the
intervals of more pressing duties, as much time as possible being
devoted to the examination of archaeological relics wherever they
occurred during the trip. It was originally proposed to present this
material in a series of several chapters, but this has been rendered
impossible for lack of the necessary time for its complete elaboration in
gonnection with outside labors,
I.—ARCH.EOLOGICAL NOTES.
The relative age of the several varieties of the remains to be described
under this head may, perhaps, be capable of determination when Suffi-
cient data have been gathered, but it will readily be acknowledged that
this is now impossible, when it is considered that all the accumulations
are superficial and separately distributed, so that two distinct forms are
* Dr. J. Van A. Carter, of Fort Bridger, who is Well posted concerning the habits and
language of the Shoshones and neighboring tribes, has kindly furnished a few notes
which have greatly aided in verifying my own, upon the dialect of Washakie's band,
besides enabling me to obtain additional hints as to the structure of the language.
Wherever comparisons are made with other tribes, due credit is given to the authorities
quoted in the text. Mr. J. D. Putnam obtained for me a small list of words front one
of our scouts, most of which were verified by comparison with my own notes.
260 RECONNAISSANCE OF North WESTERN WYOMING.
seldom or never found in one locality. We will, therefore, group them
according to their character, considering them in their order of occur-
rence along the trail of Captain Jones's party.
(t.—WORKED FLAIXES OF QUARTZITE AND OTHER MATERIAL.
The southern portion of the Green River, or Bridger Basin. has the
surface strewn with numerous fragments of Various rocks, mostly of
small size. The greater number of these possess no features of special
interest, being evidently the mere accidental products of the natural
wear and tear of bowlders in transitu, or of rocks subjected to sudden
great changes of temperature. Not a few, however, so closely resemble
the rough flakes which are produced by striking off Small chips upon
both sides of a median line that scarcely any one Who might view
them by themselves in a cabinet would be disposed to question their
artificial origin.
Prof. Joseph Leidy has figured and described a number of these
wrought flakes in Hayden's Report for 1872*. In Speaking of them he
says: “These with little doubt may be viewed as rude implements of
art. The vast numbers of similar stones to be found On the buttes and
plains near Fort Bridger, and their gradation to undoubted accidental
fragments with which they are mingled, alone renders it improbable
that they should be considered as such.”
We can add little or nothing to his careful observations upon the
subject, but a little space may, nevertheless, be occupied with a de-
scription of these relics and their distribution and mode of occurrence.
The form and size of two average specimens are clearly shown in
Eigs. 40 and 41, which also afford examples of two of the most com-
mon rock varieties observed among the worked fragments in the neigh-
borhood of the Uintah Mountains. Fig. 40 represents a flake of
dark, glistening quartzite, with a corroded appearance over a surface of
fracture. Fig. 41 is drawn from a specimen composed of a finer-
grained variety of quartzite, of a much lighter color, approaching green-
ish-gray. -
Neither of these show remarkable signs of weathering, but there is
often much difference in this respect among fragments from the same
locality. It is scarcely to be supposed that these rude splinters have
ever subserved the purpose of weapons or other implements, although
there are many of the flakes of more definite shapes, which may have
been so employed. It seems probable, however, that a large proportion
of those which can be referred to no particular form, are merely the
rejected pieces which have been spoiled during the process of manufac-
turing more perfect implements, or, in some cases, perhaps, they are
pieces from which smaller arrow-heads have been chipped.
Flinty and jaspery flakes are not uncommon, and Professor Leidy
reports the occurrence of Well-wrought implements in situations which
have afforded favorable locations for permanent camping-places of the
Indians.
Aside from the freshness of appearance of very many of these stones,
there are other reasons for doubting the remote antiquity of the
greater portion of them. -
It is well known that existing tribes of North American Indians, now
mainly removed to the southward of the forty-first parallel, have used
* See his excellent, article,“ on Remains of Primitive Art in the Bridger Basin of
Southern Wyoming,” Geological Survey of Montana, Idaho, &c., 1872. Washington :
1873, p. 651.
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Uintah Mts., Green River Basin,










RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 261
Weapons and other implements of stone, many of which now lie scattered
OVer a wide area, including the territory embraced by our reconnaissance.
It is interesting, to note that the material of these fairly-fashioned tools,
as Observed northward along our trail, bears a striking resemblance to
the rocks and the rude flakes collected near the northern base of the Uin-
tahs. In fact, not a few of the spear-heads and arrow-heads mentioned
beyond could not have been obtained at any point nearer their observed
positions than the southern portion of the Green River Basin. Again, cer-
tain articles of a very rude character are still in use to some extent among
Our Western Indians, and even in the cases of such tribes as have now
entirely discarded the implements of stone and bone, relics of such ma-
terial are not uncommonly found in graves which cannot be regarded
as ancient. The Shoshones, though mostly provided with tools of iron
and steel of approved patterns, are still to be seen employing, as a
Scraper in the dressing of skins, a mere “teshoa,” consisting of a small
worn bowlder, thinner at one end, split through the middle in such a
manner as to furnish a rough cutting-edge at one side. There seems to
be a considerable advantage in this over any form of knife or other
tool which has yet reached them from without, and it is probable that it
will be retained so long as their present method of preparing hides is in
Vogue.
As a possible offset to the foregoing remarks, it may be mentioned
that nothing can be learned of the origin or use of the flakes from the
Indians themselves, who appear to know little of them, or, as Dr. Car-
ter observes, they regard them as ancestral possessions bestowed
by the Great Spirit directly.
In estimating the value of this element in the determination of the
age of these relics, it should be borne in mind that the traditional
method of communication is not prevalent among the tribes of the Sho-
shone Group. But we have barely touched upon the salient points of a
subject of great interest, which requires more careful observation and
comparison for its further elucidation. We pass somewhat naturally to
the next topic.
b.—SPEAR-HEADS AND ARROW-IIEADS.
Our route from Fort Bridger to Camp Stambaugh lay along the line
of a road which has been much traveled by foot-passengers in the past,
and very few of the stone weapons which have doubtless been strewn
widely over the Green River Basin by the tribes which have roamed
and fought over its area were observed by members of the party. The
ever-shifting Sands have probably buried large numbers of these imple-
ments also, and it is only in peculiarly favorable situations that they
are now exposed at the surface. As before mentiond, Well-formed spear-
heads and arrow-heads may be obtained from many localities in the
neighborhood of the Uintah Mountains, where they lie more or less im-
bedded in the compacted surface-layer, upon the Summits of benches,
or in the vicinity of hollows, which offer attractive and sheltered situa-
tions for camps. North of the Union Pacific Railroad, there are Very
few chances of obtaining such relics, except upon the tops of rocky
buttes or benches not covered by beds of the Bridger-Eocene formation.
Fig. 42 represents in outline, with cross-sections taken at base and apex,
a portion of a spear-head of gray quartzite, not greatly differing from
the material of the flake illustrated in Fig. 41. Very few of the im-
plements made of this material appear to have long retained their origi-
nal form in toto, but the ends are usually more or less fractured, as in
262 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
figs. 42–44. While running a topographical base-line across the plain
near Camp 10, Mr. Le Hardy obtained a fragment of a spear-head of
similar Substance, three
d KC, a or four times as large as
that of Fig. 42. Captain
Jones picked up a beau-
tiful arrow-head, very
small, of clear Opal, from
the slope of a low terrace
bordering the North Fork
of Popo-Agie River, at
Camp 17, (Wind River.
country, South east of
Camp Brown, eight miles.)
The fragment shown in
Fig. 43 is a portion of an
uncertain weapon, which
b" my frequent companion,
Pínatsi,” picked up of his
own accord from the top .
of a very bigh ridge which
FIG. 42.—Traced outline of a broken spear-head of we had ascended together,
gray quartzite from a bluff on Little Sandy Creek, one- north of the trail between
half mile north of Camp 10, Green River Basin. a d, b c, Camps 24 and 25, among
Sectional outlines at A D and B C. the foot-hills of the Owl
Creek range. He seemed anxious to inform me of its origin, with-
out any hint from myself. Not being able to recall the name of the tribe
to which he would refer it, I ran
Over a list of several well-known
< X Indian nations, including some
which had previously roamed
over this territory, to all of which
he gave a negative answer, but,
suddenly brightening, he ex-
claimed Apáche! Apóſche / This
sº information cannot, of course, be
Fig. 43—outline and end sections of Apache implicitly relied upon, but it is
relic, of greenish gray quartzite, from near Dry here given only for What it may
Fork, Wind River Valley. be worth. The spear-head rep-
resented in Fig. 44 Was found partially imbedded in the red sandy
talus at the foot of a bluff of the brick-red beds which are generally
regarded as Triassic. It is made of gray quartzite, very fine-grained
and compact, and shows some signs of weathering. The under sur-
face as it lay had become conspicuously reddened by contact with
the soil, and this color is now permanently retained. Between this point
and the Yellowstone basin no remains of this character were observed,
though it is highly probable that such are not scarce, as there is evi-
dence that this Section has been the haunt of many Indians in the past
as now. Mr. Creary obtained from the twelfth terrace at the Mammoth,
Hot Springs of Gardiner's IRiver, a large spear-head of light-drab quartz-
ite, nearly three by four inches. Beyond, in the region occupied by the
igneous or eruptive rocks, a new material is provided in the masses of
obsidian which occur in places as “volcanic glass.” Pig. 45 represents.
a small specimen of arrow-head with the remains of a shaft, which was
* For pronunciation of Indian words, see vocabulary, Chapter XV, beyond.

RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 263
picked up by one of the cavalry escort at our camp on Pacific Creek,
just below the Two-Ocean Pass. An unbroken arrowhead of pure chal-

sc-

FIG. 44.—Outline of spear-head, with end sections, from the base of a cliff of Trias-
sic beds, beyond Camp 25, at southern base of Owl Creek range.
edony, of the form given in Fig. 46, lay within a few inches of the trail,
half way between Camps 53 and 54, not far from Atlantic Creek. The


C.
X-
<<TS-> *
FIG. 45.-Outline and end sections —xº~~~
of an obsidian arrow-head. The in- F1G. 46.-Outline, with end sections,
ner line of the section X is the basal of an arrow-head of pure chalcedony
cross-section of the shaft, or neck, of obtained on the trail between Camps
the implement. Locality, Camp 54, 53 and 54, near Atlantic Creek, tribu-
on Pacific Creek. tary of Upper Yellowstone River.
material of which this is composed is very abundant in regions of Tertiary
exposures, and the arrow-heads are usually of extreme beauty, being much
more perfect and symmetrical than one would suppose it possible to manu-
facture from such a substance, while a sharp and jagged edge is secured
which cannot fail of accomplishing its intended purpose, when skillfully
used. No direct clew to the age of these relics was obtained, nor is it pos-
sible to offer any well-founded opinion with respect to the tribes by
264 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
which they were employed. It may be said, however, that there is
little reason for considering them in any degree ancient, for they were all
found lying upon the surface of the ground, and mostly showing scarcely
any signs of weathering effects. On the other hand, few, if any, are
to be regarded as very recent, for all were more or less firmly settled in
the soil, and it cannot be positively asserted that they had not lain
in their observed positions for a century or more. Few would be dis-
posed to regard them, probably, as other than relics of the North Ameri-
can Indians, with the exception, perhaps, of such as were alluded to
as occurring in parts of the southern portion of the Green River basin.
No weapons of stone were observed in use by the Shoshones, although
many of the boys were provided with bows and arrows, with sharpened
iron or steel heads for the latter, of the pattern commonly adopted by
the Western tribes. This consists merely of a thin blade of about the
form and dimensions shown in the annexed cut, (Fig. 47,) sharpened
along the entire edge, except at the base.
Occasional variations in the outline may
be observed, and the size is somewhat
Variable also.

c.—STONE CIRCLES, TRIANGLES, ETC.
Since our return from the field, Pro-
fessor E. D. Cope has presented a paper
to the Philadelphia Academy of Science,
in which he describes several circles of
stones observed by himself in the neigh-
borhood of the Uintah Mountains. In
form and size, as well as in their mode of
<C-> construction, these all appear to differ
from those which fall to be described in
y this place, and indeed, no exactly similar
works have been discovered elsewhere,
so far as can be learned from the perusal
of the writings of leading compilers and
authorities.
Strangely enough, the points origi-
nally chosen as the termini of a “base-
Fig. 47. Typical shape of knife line,” marked out by the topographical
arrowhead now occasionally em- Corps While at Camp Brown, had also
ployed by young Shoshones, (East- been selected at a period long since past,
ern.). *3, by ruder men, as the locations of simple
structures, probably connected with Some form of religious cere-
monies. The engraving (Fig. 48) represents an oval inclosure formed
by the arrangement of flat stones upon the ground in such a man-
ner as to leave an opening toward the east, or in the direction of
the rising sun. The circlet is composed of nineteen irregular pieces of
limestone, corresponding in character to Some of the beds of a neighbor-
ing cliff. It is situated upon a rounded bluff in a very commanding po-
sition. All the stones were partly imbedded in the soil, and portions
of two of them were overgrown with a thick tuft of moss. There was a
perceptible depression or hollow near the middle of the inclosure, as if
fire had been employed in the rites, but no traces of implements or re-
mains of sacrifices were observed, although a careful search was made.
The structure at the northwestern terminus of the base-line is much
smaller, and nearly circular, with rather thicker stones, obtained from
Fig. 48.—Sketch of a rude stone circle on a bluff on right bank of Little Wind
River, south of Butte Springs, below Camp Brown,
Dimensions, 3 x 6 feet, inside.

RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 265
the butte upon the summit of which it is located. The number of stones
is nearly as great as in the former instance, but they are more closely
Crowded. Unfortunately the topographers' monument was built directly
upon one side of this circle, two of the stones beyond being also taken
to build the pile; hence the writer cannot state positively the number
of pieces in the ring. The opening, as before, is toward the east. The
butte on which the circle rests is a prominent landmark, though soon
shut out from view northward, and it offers a commanding position for
such a structure. This bill lies less than a mile to the east of our trail,
midway between Camps 19 and 20.
In both cases, rather noticeably, the rings are so placed that access
to their level is quite difficult from the west, while the eastward pros-
pect from the flats below is shut off in such a manner as to allow of an
earlier view of the rising sun from the more elevated point. It may
not be hazardous to regard these inclosures, with others to be men-
tioned directly, as relics of a race or tribe of sun-worshippers, although
we have now no data for assigning them to their proper period or peo-
ple. They are certainly not very recent, and the Shoshones are unable
to account for them, except by referring them, as usual in cases of
doubt, to the agency of the Great Spirit, or “Tam. Apa.”
On the left bank of Wind River, below Camp 5S, and a short distance
above the entrance of De Noir Creek, there are a number of irregular
hillocks or small mound-shaped hills, which overlook a comparatively
level area, which offers an attractive spot for temporary camps, but
which would scarcely be selected as a site for a more permanent abid-
ing-place. Several of the hills are crowned with low piles of Small
stones, which furnish but little evidence as to their significance, but the
arrangement observed on the summit of one of them, perhaps the most
conspicuous, deserves special consideration on account of its apparent
relation to the circles before described. The positions of the three
clusters of stones in this relic are indicated in Fig. 49, by the letters
A, B, C. It will be ob- &B
served that the base of
the triangle is Open
toward the east, and it -
has occurred to the writer céſ ºft->
that these also may have
constituted the hastily
improvised temple of a
tribe of sun-Worshippers
temporarily encamped in
this vicinity. Even Were
the neighboring flats not
wholly unsuitable for a Q94
permanent camp, much FIG, 49.- \ncient monuments, Wind River Valley,
more favorable and ele- above ºuth of Do Noir creek, A, B, C, Heaps or
vated situations for the clusters of small bowlders. Distances estimated: A, B,
construction of circles are 30 feet; B, C, 50 feet ; C, A, 50 feet.
not wanting at a little distance. The corner heaps are not large, Con-
sisting of from two to four rough bowlders of small size, merely thrown
together. Whether the single clusters of the same nature upon the
surrounding hillocks are identical in origin it is not easy to determine,
but it may be remarked that all are easterly from the locality in which
the favorable camping-spots occur. -
The author is unwilling to press too closely the theory that these
circles and triangles have been used in the worship of the Sun, although
266 RECONNAISSANCE OF NorthwestERN WYOMING.
it may be difficult to account for their locations and the position of
their openings on any other supposition. Again, although there is
every reason to believe that the origin of these relics is not of recent
date, it must be confessed that much too little is known of the historical
ethnography of the West, and there is danger of giving undue credit to
matters of little importance in themselves.
Sir John Lubbock,” in speaking of the cromlechs, or circles of upright
stones, found in several parts of the World, suggests that the number
in each circle may have had some significance, and he credits Dr.
Thurnam with the statement that “four circles at Boscawen and adja-
cent places in Cornwall have each been formed of nineteen stones.” It
is a coincidence not necessarily anything but accidental to find the
same number in the oval inclosure (Fig. 4S,) though the ring would have
been as complete with less. -
(l.—MONUME NTS, GRAVES, IETC.
Pillars or columns made of small, flat stones several feet in height,
are common along the wagon-roads which traverse the Green I&iver Basin,
but these are known in many cases as land-marks established by the
early Mormons who marked out the course to be pursued by the con-
verts who were to follow them across the plains on their way to the
Salt Lake Valley. Not a few of those monuments have, perhaps, also
been built by members of the various topographical parties which have
“triangulated” over this area since the date of the first exploration of
the region, and a goodly number were added in 1873, by our own
corps of surveyors. None of these structures were observed along our
route which furnished any indication of a different origin, until we
had passed beyond the Owl Creek Mountains, and penetrated the rugged
area lying between Owl Creek and Gray Bull River. At a point where
the trail led through a peculiar gap in a complicated series of bluffy
hills, about three miles before reaching Camp 27, there was a consider-
able mound of loose fragments of white and red sandstone obtained
Quite near. There could be no doubt that these stones were placed in
their present position by human agency, and it seems proper to regard
them as the resting-place of the dead. This opinion is strengthened
by the location of the mound, which is in a sheltered nook among the
lıills, in a spot where no land-mark would be visible even at a distance
of several rods only. It should be stated, however, that the trail here
made a sudden turn over a hill, and the heap may have been employed
as a guide for Indian travelers.
Other monuments were observed in different localities, many of which
may readily be dismissed from consideration by regarding them as mere
coverts for hunters lying in wait for deer and other game, but there
are some which will scarcely admit of so simple an explanation. Such
are those which have been erected in such situations that they could
never serve as land-marks for travelers or topographers, nor yet as
means of concealment from animals. In the absence of any evidence of
their real significance, however, these must be passed with a mere
allusion to their occasional occurrence, without an attempt to account
for them in any Way. - -
It is matter of some surprise that so few Indian graves were noticed
during the trip, when we consider the number of burials wh ch must
have taken place over the area discussed. The best example of an
undoubted sepulchre was seen near the trail, two miles beyond Camp
“Pre-historic Times,” 3d edition, London, 1872, p. 113.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 267
32, on the left bank of North Fork of Stinking Water River. This
Consisted of a low mound of loose stones lying nearly east and west,
With an irregular and broader heap extending a few feet northward
from the eastern end. Our Shoshone scout, Nakok, stated that this
was the burial-place of a Blackfoot (?) Warrior. The stones were small and
Somewhat broken, having been taken from a collection of washed frag-
ments of limestone spread out over the bed of a flood-stream, which
was dry when we passed. Digging down the length of my arm, the
stones were found gradually becoming smaller below, and mixed with
loose earth, but no human remains nor trinkets were discovered. From
the appearance of the adjoining heap, a horse may have been buried
near the foot, apparently at a right angle to the warrior's body.
The position of the Indian’s body, lying nearly in an east and west
direction, may be not wholly accidental. G. Catlin,” speaking of the
burial customs among the Mandans, after describing the construction
of the scaffold, remarks, “The body is laid “ :* * on its back,
with its feet carefully presented toward the rising sun.” The smaller
mound in this case, as before stated, had what appeared to be the foot
toward the east.
Human skeleton.—While at Camp 28, on Gooseberry Creek, (Shoshone
Plateau,) Burt, one of the cavalry escort, brought in the skull of a white
man, which he had found on a hill-side near one of the lookout stations.
Pſe reported that he found lying with it, at the surface, the prominent
bones of the skeleton and laid them together in a secluded spot. We
were unable to find these by careful search on the following day; but
a story is current among the Indians of the killing of a white man near
this locality not many years since, one of three, it is said, who had
been driven into the ravines, the others having escaped.
€.—HIERO G-LYPHIC ROCK-INSCRIPTIONS.
In the Smithsonian Report, 1872, (page 409 et seq.,) Mr. J. G. Bruff
gives two views of Indian rock-carvings from the upper portion of the
Green River Valley, at some distance northwest of our line of march.
These are much more perfect in construction, as well as more true to
nature, than any which were observed by us. In fact, none were
noticed along our course until we had reached the Little Popo-Algie
Tiver, in the Wind River country; and all that were seen by our party
Occurred within the limits of the Wind River Plateau.
On the left bank of the Little Popo-Agie, just across the road from
Fletcher's ranch, above Murphy's, there is a small cavern in light, buff
sandstone, which might shelter from three to five men. The mouth of
this is well barricaded, by a low, curved wall of large, flat stones, placed
on edge so as to afford almost complete protection in case of an attack,
provided that the besieged were well armed. Inside, on a kind of ledge,
a few twigs and leaves were seen, leading to the conclusion that the
retreat may have been used as a place of incantation by some Indian
medicine-man. On the face of the cliff, above the entrance, and a little
to the left, are three hieroglyphic figures, mere daubs of black paint,
two being long, thin, characteristic representations of horses, and the
third resembling a tapiroid animal without a proboscis, which WaS
probably intended to represent a mule.
Upon a nearly vertical wall of the yellow sandstones just back of Mur-
phy’s ranch, at Camp 16, a number of rude figures had been chiseled,
* “North American Indians,” Vol. i., p. 89.
26S RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
apparently at a period not very recent, as they had become much worn.
The greater number of these are shown about one-fifth of their size, in
9 tº gº & Ye
* * * * * *
FIG. 50–Hieroglyphic inscriptions on a cliff of yellowish sandstones back of Mur-
phy’s ranch, at Camp 16, on Little Popo-Agie River. (X % about.)
Fig. 50. No certain clew to the connected meaning of this record was
obtained, although Pinatsi attempted to explain it when the sketch was
, ºr N shown to him some days later by Mr. F. W.
Bond, who copied the inscriptions from the
rocks. The figure on the left, in the upper
row, somewhat resembles the design com-
, monly used to represent a shield, with the
greater part of the ornamental fringe omit-
ted, perhaps worn away in the inscription.
We shall possibly be justified in regarding
the whole as an attempt to record the par-
ticulars of a fight or battle which once oc-
curred in this neighborhood. Pinatsi's re-
marks conveyed the idea to Mr. Bond that
º he understood the figure marked b in the
cut to signify cavalry, and the six figures
\ marked c, to mean infantry, but he did not
3. 51,-Hierog ºne appear to recognize the hieroglyphs as the
at: º;', copy of any record with which he was famil-
Trout Creek, ]] 6.2LT crossing of 18 I’. On the side trip to Chimney Rocks, II)
woodmen's road from , Camp the nucleus of the Wind River Mountains,
ºwn Gº"...." (see chapter I,) an interesting hieroglyphic
* $º . As *-* * series was discovered carved in a wall of light-
buff sandstones overlying the brick-red Triassic beds. The well-traveled
woodmen's road from Camp Brown, passes close under this bluffjust after
crossing Trout Creek. The figure in the cut (Fig. 51) was copied in the
afternoon when returning from the mountains. About noon of the fol-
lowing day, an attempt was made to obtain copies of all the others, which
are numerous and of several forms, but the light upon them at this hour
was so unsatisfactory that only a few of the most prominent figures
could be sketched, and these are included in the group in Fig. 52. The
story here marked out is more complete, or, perhaps, extends over a
greater period than in the Little Popo-Agie record, for the cliffs bave
very many rude designs cut upon them, a large number of which have
now become so indistinct that it is impossible to trace them accurately.
Those which are illustrated in the accompanying cuts have been copied
as they appear, but it is not certain that they correctly represent the origi-
nal delineations. The figures are all quite large and the lines are broad
and coarse, as if made in haste by some blunt instrument. The rock is
very soft and weathers rapidly, being of such a color that the finer mark-
ings are only brought out by the direct light of the sun in the afternoon.

RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 269
No information was obtained which can aid in solving the problem of the
.
i
age, or significance of the picture-writing, as a whole, though the special

270 - RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
*
meaning of certain designs may be inferred from their form, as in the
case of the many represented in Fig. 50.
The only remaining instance of rock-sculpturing observed over our
route was a set of rough etchings in the upper portion of the Valley of
Wind River, on the left bank, in the face of a cliff of soft buff-colored
sandstones, near the mouth of a creek which enters Wind River a short
distance below Camp 59. These are given in Fig. 53, so far as they
could be made out, no signs of others being visible. Pínatsi was shown
the copy of these in my note-book, and he remarked that they were in-
tended to record the particulars of a fight between the Cheyennes and
Shoshones some years since, in which (of course) the latter were victo-
rious. As nearly as could be gathered from his efforts at description, he
stated that the upper figure on the right represents a shield, and a
FIG. 53.—Hieroglyphs (badly weathered) cut in buff sandstones on left bank of
Wind River, at mouth of a creek below Camp 59. (One-fifth actual size, about.)
similar design is rather commonly noticed in many of the engravings of
hieroglyphs in the works of authorities on the customs of North Amer.
ican Indians. It would be unwise and futile to attempt any close gen-
eralizations upon this Scanty material, and it is very unsafe to base any
conclusions wholly upon the uncertain testimony of the Indians alone,
but there are several points of interest which require at least a passing
allusion. It seems a little remarkable that all of these carvings should
occur in the Wind River Valley, and, especially, that all should have
been recorded upon light-buff sandstones, which are all so soft that the
designs are even now greatly obliterated. The general rudeness of
workmanship and a certain similarity of construction, as well as the
comparative amount of Weathering, all point toward a common origin ;
and the occurrence of the shield in two or three instances would seem
to indicate that the work was done at a period prior to the general in-
troduction of fire-arms. There are, however, a few designs which were
probably intended to represent guns, from which it may be inferred that
their use was also known at the time. We are, therefore, in the absence
of other evidence, brought to the conclusion that these relics are of
modern date, though pointing backward to an epoch of more primitive
Indian culture than the present. The author is strongly of the opinion
that they were not made by the Shoshones, for reasons which cannot
now be detailed. At the same time the story of Pinatsi, concerning the
fight with the Cheyennes, was related in a manner which entitles it to
some consideration at least.

RECONN A ISSANCE OF NORTH WESTERN WYOMING. 271
II.—MANNERS AND OU STOMS OF WASHAKIE'S BANI) OF
EASTERN SHOSEHONES.
One of the most important, and now among the most widely-scattered
groups of Indians inhabiting the territory of the United States west of
the Mississippi, comprises a large number of hostile, semi-hostile, and
friendly bands, extending in patches from Oregon to Texas and from
the Missouri River to the Pacific Ocean. In the lingual classification
of the North American Indians adopted by Schoolcraft, his fifth division,
or “Shoshonee group, comprises the Comanches, Shoshones, Snakes,
Bonacks, and other tribes of the Rocky Mountains, the higher Red
River, and the hill country of Texas.”
Numerous causes, among which may be mentioned the governmental
policy of separating and intermingling the various tribes, have rendered
this definition obsolete, and it would now be a difficult task to collect
the statistics necessary for the enumeration of the numerous bands
which properly belong to this group. The names Snake and Shoshone
are interchangeable, and there are given in the report of the Secretary
of the Interior for 1873 not less than thirty-one distinct bands which are
affiliated by their language, comprising in all, (male and female,) only
21,000 individuals. In many cases, where several bands are living upon
the same reservation, they have been reported as one, hence the actual
number of sects is much greater, no doubt. Even in the district traw-
ersed by ourselves, we were frequently called upon in conversation to
make distinctions between such companies as Washakie's band, or
Eastern Shoshones, and Bannocks, Sheep-Eaters, &c., which were sup-
posed to be rowing about. We were, however, thrown in contact prin-
cipally with the inhabitants of the Eastern Shoshone Agency, at Camp
Brown, although some glimpses of Utes, from the Uintah Valley Agency,
Utah, were obtained at Fort Bridger and in its vicinity. Fifteen Shoshone
scouts were enlisted for the expedition at Camp Brown, who accom-
panied us during the remainder of the trip, taking with them their fam-
ilies and all their possessions, including a large number of horses. We
also passed two days in the neighborhood of Washakie's camp, South
of the Stinking Water River, whither he had preceded us with the
greater part of his band, for the purpose of hunting buffalo upon the
plains. At odd moments upon the march, and when unemployed in
camp, the following notes upon the habits, customs, and dialect of these
Indians were gathered, and it has been thought that their paucity
should not exclude them from publication, when the value of every fact
bearing upon these subjects is considered. The opportunities for such
observations are fast passing away, and the time will come when even
little scraps of this nature will possess a much greater interest than at
present. -
a.—General character and domestic relations.
The intelligence and susceptibility of cultivation shown by this peo-
ple is quite generally remarked by those who have had occasion to
observe them, and Washakie's band is, perhaps, especially noted for
the possession of these traits. This is doubtless owing in large measure
to the powerful influence of the chief himself, and partly to their subju-
gation by the whites several years ago, which has made them realize
their comparative weakness; but the Shoshones have held an enviable
*H. R. Schoolcraft, “History of the Indian Tribes of the United States,” vol. i., p. 197.
(Bonacks, usually written Bammocks.)
272 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
reputation, with some few exceptions, since the date of the early explora-
tions, notwithstanding the warlike propensities of the allied Comanches,
and the degradation of many of the related Pa-Utes. Catlin writes:
“Of the Shoshones and Shosokies (Root-Diggers, Yampa-tickaras, [or
Pa-Utes ? T. B. C.) all travelers who have spoken of them give them a
good character, as a kind and hospitable and harmless people,” and he
cites in proof Rev. Mr. Parker, (“Tour across the Rocky Mountains,”)
Lewis and Clarke, and Captain Bonneville. “In their domestic rela-
tions,” as Dr. Carter observes, “there are often cases of tender affection,
and I firmly believe them as devoted to each other in all that is practi-
cal as are more enlightened nations.” The Army officers accompanying
our expedition, most of whom were familiar with the habits and customs
of other tribes in the West, often expressed great surprise at the nu-
merous exhibitions of paternal and conjugal love which were openly dis-
played without embarrassment or apparent sense of condescension.
While, as is usual among Indians, the squaws belonging to our Scouting
party were given the charge of domestic affairs, including the packing
of luggage and the driving of the animals on the march, young children,
especially the boys, were quite commonly carried long distances in their
fathers' arms, or in front of them on the saddle, and it was very common
to see one or more of the braves strolling about in our camps with their
sons tenderly clasped in their arms. Very often, when rough shelters
of boughs were made, the material was cut and brought to the spot by
the men, and many little acts of kindness of a similar nature were fre-
Quently noticed. Cheerfulness and gayety, approaching even to Witti-
ness, are prominent traits of the Shoshone character. An amusing
instance occurred on the return-trip shortly before reaching Camp
Brown which is worth relating as an illustration of the keen sense of
humor often manifested among them. Pinatsi, who was so frequently
an attendant of the Writer as to earn the appellation of his “man Fri.
day,” was riding quietly by my side, when I very soberly asked him, by
way of a jest, “Pinatsi, aren't you an arrant humbug?” Without
apprehending the question, as he understood English but little, he
immediately replied, “Yes, Gum-stóck,” (his pronunciation of Com-
stock.) The derisive shouts of those of our party who were near con-
vinced him of his blunder, when he almost instantly retaliated by put-
ting to me a question in Shoshone, which I answered as unwittingly,
bringing down storms of good-natured laughter from his little party
upon my own devoted head.
The affections are developed early, One of the little girls of our party
carried about with her almost constantly a diminutive “papoose” case,
containing a doll with a China head, bestowing much care and attention
upon it.
b.—Traditions, legends, and beliefs.
It is always difficult to obtain accurate information regarding the tra-
ditions of lndian tribes, and it is somewhat remarkable that this
method of preserving history is believed to be almost unemployed
among the various divisions of the great Shoshonee Group. This fact,
no doubt, has an important bearing upon their capacity for civilization,
and their willingness to adopt the manners of the Whites with whom
they may be associated. Concerning the Comanches, Mr. David G.
Burnet remarks that they “ have a loose tradition that they came from
* G. Catlin, “North American Indians,” 1845, vol. ii, p. 113.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 273
the north.” Jesse Chisholm, a Cherokee, who had lived among them,
Stated that “his intercourse with the Comanches had impressed him
with a high opinion of their intellect. * $ * They have an un-
Wavering confidence in the Good Spirit.”f Robert S. Neighbors writes:
“The Comanches believe they have always lived near the same coun-
try they now occupy, and they know of but one migration of their tribes,
many years ago, when they traveled from the West and met with what
they termed “Mountain Spaniards’ in the mountains of New Mexico.
They lived with them many years and intermarried with each other.
The first chief they recollect was Ish-shee-shū, (Wolf House,) a great
and wise chief. They then lived in Mexico. From thence they visited
the prairies for hunting and intermarried with the Wacos, Tah-wac-car-
ros, Torinash, and branches of the Pawnee tribes. * 36 * When
* & º - º & * *
they came from the west there were no people living in Texas. * :#;
#: :K The first whites they saw were west of the Rio Grande del
Norte.” He also states that they are “superstitious and worship the
Great Spirit, and the sun, moon, and earth.” Their “shields are made
in imitation of the sun, and before going to War they are stuck upon
their lances, facing the rising Sun, and no person is permitted to handle
or touch them except their owners.”
Adam Johnston S says of the Bonaks, (Bannocks,) or Root-Dig-
gers: || “In all my researches among the Indians of this country, I have not
found a single relic to mark the past. * :6 * They seen to have
lived in this simple style for ages past, depending on the natural pro-
ducts of the earth for subsistence, and Without a single means of record-
ing thought or action—without idols, Sacrifices, prayers, or priests.”
In the main these statements coincide so nearly with the results of
personal observations among the Eastern Shoshones, as to warrant the
supposition that these scattered tribes are nearly related, even without
the confirmation afforded by similarity of language. Dr. J. Van A.
Carter writes me from Fort Bridger as follows: “I have often searched
for legends and the like, but Without finding ally which I regarded as
reliably Indian. There was always something to suggest unbelief in the
legend or tradition being purely their own—Something to stamp it as
originally from the fertile brain of some poet or novelist, which had
gotten to the Indians by legend-hunters leaving with them what they
couldn’t honestly find among them. As far as I can see, there is no
poetry among them.”
Legend of the Gray Bull.—The only legend which we were able to
secure, is one which is current in the neighborhood of Camp Brown. It
was first obtained from officers at the post, and afterward freely related
by intelligent Indians Without material alteration, but it could not be
certainly ascertained whether it at first came from the imagination of
white men or Indians. Some four miles or less above Camps 21 and 22,
a stream known as Bull Lake Fork enters Wind River from the right
bank. This stream passes down from the mountains through a cuntin-
uous cañon, without a side channel for several miles. Soon after pass-
* Im Schoolcraft's, “History, &c., of Indian Tribes,” Vol. i., p. 229.
# “I’acific R. lv. Reports,” vol. iii, part III, p. 35.
f II. R. Schoolcraft, op. cit., Vol. ii, p. 126.
§ Schoolcraft, op. cit., Vol. iv, p. 226.
| The term Root-Diggers, originally applied to a tribe called Shoshokies, living just
west of the Rocky Mountains, in the present Territory of Idaho, has become very
indefinite, and it is used indiscriminately to designate the poorer classes of several
tribes of Utes and Shoshones, Who Wander on foot, and are often compelled to subsist
upon roots. Their more fortunate brethren call them Yaumpa-Tickara, (literally, Root-
Eaters.)
H. Ex. 285—18
274. RECONNALSSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
ing through the skirting ridge of Carboniferous limestone, it becomes
Swollen into a beautiful sheet of water called Bull Lake, or sometimes
Gray Bull Eake. Passing along the bottom of the gorge, one hears a
low, roaring sound, not unpleasant, caused by the echo from the rush-
ing water, which passes over a series of low cascades near the outlet of
the lake. The northern shore of the lake is walled in by a precipitous
and rocky bluff, clothed with a thickly scattered growth of scrawling
cedar bushes. The legend has it that an old Indian, at midnight, in
hot pursuit of a gray bull buffalo, finally drives him down the steep
into the water, where the hunter also follows him, and bull, rider, and
horse all disappear together. The roarings are supposed to be the dying
groans of the vanquished buffalo.
This lake and stream have no connection with the Gray Bull River
beyond the Owl Creek Mountains, and it is not impossible that there is
some slight confusion in the Indian geography, provided the legend be
legitimate.
The Shoshones appear to believe in the Great Spirit, (Tam Apa- Thou
(?) Father,) and to lave faith in what may, perhaps, be appropriately styled
a rude spiritual philosophy, though the almost entire absence of tradi-
tions and legends seems to place them in a peculiarly receptive condition
with respect to modifications of belief from time to time. A single
illustration of each proposition will suffice to show this more clearly.
The dead are usually buried in such a manner as to allow of the return
of the spirits to visit their friends, as they say ; i. e., by covering their
bodies io9sely with small stones. It is reported that their “Medicine-
Man” once told them that the barking of dogs by night would drive
away the spirits of the departed, whereupon these animals were excluded
from the camp. This is remarkable indeed, for, as Catlin remarks, dogs
“seem to be so near an Indian’s heart, as almost to constitute a material
link of His existence.” Dogs are again coming into use with them,
however, and they now have about half a dozen in the whole band, of
which mention is made beyond. These Indians seem very superstitious
and are much given to the use of charms and various forms of “Medicine,”
as it is termed.
c.—Emotional expression.
Advantage was taken of the presence of our scouts and their families to
observe somewhat closely the character of the men, with their unconscious
modes of expression of emotions called out by varying circumstances. It
will be understood that the notes under this head are the results of studies
of individuals selected for their peculiar fitness for the duties imposed
upon them, for which reason we can scarcely regard them as representa-
tives of the average of the tribe to which they belong, but rather above
the medium standard.
I frequently noticed the children crying and shedding copious tears,
with expressions similar to those of white children in like cases. Laugh-
ter was Very common, both among young and old, its only peculiarities
being the very numerous and trifling exciting causes, and its grunting,
or guttural, and explosive nature. The voices of the men and women
are more nearly alike in pitch than is often found among civilized races.f
I never saw anything approaching a kiss, though our Indians were quite
affectionate compared with other tribes ; nor did I notice the habit of
shrugging the shoulders, said to be prevalent With Some Indians.
Whistling, also, was unobserved. Pouting, with great protrusion of
* G. Catlin, “North American Indians,” vol. i., p. 88.
f See “Medicine Song,” illustrated, beyond.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 275
the lips, is common with the children when crying or sulky. I have
also noticed among the children, particularly with two above fifteen
years of age, a look of sullen obstimacy when noticed or patronized by
the whites, which is quite different from the usual smiling greeting of
the men and women. Can it be that this is an inherited trait 2 The
Shoshones were more or less hostile a few years since, and it may be
remarked that this expression was much less common on the faces of
the youngest children. “ Knitting of the brows,” or frowning, was re-
peatedly observed when an Indian was puzzled, accompanied by a rapid
Winking of the eyelids, when confused or embarrassed. This incessant
Winking conveyed to me the idea of embarrassment more than anything
else. The expression was not noticed to a great degree, except in the
Cases of those who were markedly particular in the observance of habits
of order and neatness, and other approaches to the refinements of civil-
ization. Such actions would have a tendency to develop a feeling of
self-consciousness, which is one great cause of embarrassment. This
feeling would probably be more intense in the case of a partially civil-
ized tribe like the Shoshones, for the Indian would have a strong con-
Sciousness of being observed, not only by the whites, but also by the
members of his own band. Washakie, whose endeavors to introduce
the benefits of civilization among his followers entitle him to rank as a
real reformer, is a great winker at times. Pinatsi came to my tent
While in Camp 31, to reconnoiter. I Wrote my name upon a slip of pa-
per, which he took and examined very intently with knitted brow and a
confused expression, in which the emotious of doubt, Wonder, envy, and
perplexity seemed to be but imperfectly conquered by the (to the In-
dian) stronger emotions of pride and conceit. This peculiar complex ex-
pression was often exhibited by the features of this person, more or less
modified by the circumstances. When strongly manifested, it gave to his
countenance a remarkably perplexed appearance, and, to a certain de-
gree, it betrayed the comparative weakness of his intellect. The same
expression, similarly induced, was observed upon the faces of other In-
dians, and the variations produced by the prevailing traits of their char-
acters were quite striking. In the case of John Le Claire, (French half-
breed,) one of the most intelligent of our guides, the prevailing emotion
was rather that of disgust or pity, or occasionally even of contempt or
conceit. With Luisant, (another French half-breed, very intelligent,)
who was affectionate and fond of praise, but very proud at times, this
expression was commonly a queer mixture of humility and fear, with a
faint lurking sign of suspicion. Tó'göte, (Mountain Shoshone, or
“Sheep-eater” band,) who was rather looked down upon by his com-
panions, on such occasions usually appeared considerably annoyed, but
careless, as if habitually accustomed to difficulties, but yet conscious
that he was then of much importance on account of his superior knowl-
edge of the country through which he was guiding us. Ná-kök, (half-
breed,) when thus excited, assumed an air as of conscious superiority,
mingled with condescension.
d.—Government, social customs, regulations, etc.
The political economy of this people is comparatively simple, but ap-
parently very effective in a band which numbers barely three hundred
Warriors. The office of chief is elective, and the popular vote is almost
invariably in the favor of the most capable man. Petty chiefs, usually
men of some special ability, are not uncommon. Ná-kök at one time
possessed much influence, which was much lessened by a serious defeat
276 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
in a fight with the whites on Bear River, several years ago, from which
he escaped with the loss of an eye. John Le Claire had a bright-look-
ing boy, of whom he was very fond, who was frequently mentioned by
others of our scouting-party as a prospective candidate for the highest
office. Washakie's influence is very great indeed, which is not matter
of surprise, for his physiognomy indicates an intellect of no mean order.
Eſe has steadily favored the civilization of his tribe as far as possible,
and lives himself in a neat log house when at Camp Brown. He told
Captain Jones that he was dissatisfied with a roving life, and he has
since determined to give up the chase as a means of Subsistence. It is
proper to give to Dr. James Jrwin, the esteemed agent at this agency,
the credit which is undoubtedly due him for a very large share of the
improvement which has taken place of late years in the condition and
prospects of these Indians.
Polygamy is not forbidden, but it cannot be very common so long as
the proportion of the sexes is so evenly adjusted. Of 1,024 individuals
reported by Dr. Irwin in 1873, 489 were given as males, with only 535
females. Bigamy is practiced to some extent, but monogamy is the gen-
eral rule, perhaps more from necessity than from choice. Adultery, as
in other tribes of the Shoshonee group, is punished by cutting off the
nose of the guilty female. Young children are carried in cases formed
by stretching a skin or cloth over a straight board so as to form a kind
of pocket, but no compression of the head is attempted. The case or
cradle containing the “papoose ’’ is slung over the mother’s back or
attached to the front of the saddle so as to hang down by the shoulder
of the horse. Persons who are too ill to ride on horseback are Carried
in litters formed of two poles, with skins stretched across between
them. These are used in two ways, either by attaching a horse at each
end between the poles, or by placing one horse in front, allowing the
other end to drag on the ground. The latter form, called a “wetedda,”
was used by Nākök for several days after leaving Camp Brown, thus
providing him with a reclining seat or bed.
The dead are usually buried in shallow graves and covered with a low
mound of loose Stones.
While in the neighborhood of Washakie's hunting-camp We were in-
formed that there would be a grand “buffalo dance” about the close of
the hunting-season, in which both braves and squaws would take part,
some going without water for four days. Luisant seemed anxious that
we should witness the performance, and after our return to Camp Brown
we received special invitations for a specified night, but were several
times put off on the plea that Washakie was unwell and could not bear
the noise, from which it was concluded that the Indians were un Willing
to conduct the exercise in Our presence.
When a few of our Indians returned from a visit they had made to
the Crow Agency in Montana, while off with the train which went in to
Eort Ellis for provisions, they brought a recently captured Sioux Scalp
given them by the Crows. This was “disgraced” at our camp on the
southwest arm of Yellowstone Lake, by elevating it on a pole, and dan-
cing and yelling around it. Ridiculous as was the performance, there
was a wild kind of excitement about it which impelled the greater por-
tion of our whole party to join in it with a Zest which greatly pleased
the Indians.
The general absence of dogs from Washakie's band has already been
remarked and explained. The superstition which caused their exclu-
sion seems to be gradually leaving them by association with the whites,
as they now have several small curs which bark shrilly and fiercely on
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 277
the slightest provocation. The allied Utes and Comanches have nu-
merous dogs. In a band of about a dozen Utes (including women and
children) near the Uintah Mountains, I saw at least six or eight large,
Wolfish dogs, while our party of more than forty Shoshones had only a
Single animal, which if not actually a young coyote, was but a single
remove from it. This creature barked, imperfectly, much like those we
met in Washakie's camp. The women of the scouting party were sev-
eral times observed eating with the men. The Utes referred to above
Were partaking of their noon-day meal when we came upon them, and
the men were eating with great gusto, while the women stood idly by
Or served them when required.
There was a contrast between the appearance of the Shoshones and
that of the Utes we saw about Fort Bridger, which was quite favorable
to the former. The men among the Utes were of good size and robust,
but of low type. Their heads were large and broad across the face, the
In OSe Very large and flattened. The Women were quite small in com-
parison. Their habits were in many respects even disgusting. As a
rule they were admirable horsemen, but were most awkward and un-
gainly on foot. The women were roughly treated. One young buck,
more attractive than the average, brought a good-looking squaw to the
store to trade, evidently for the first time. When he departed, he rode
off suddenly at a fast trot, his clumsy wife running behind clinging to
his horse's tail. The Shoshone women appear happier and they have
Certainly much more interesting faces than those of the Ute squaw's We
met at Fort Bridger.
e.—Songs and Singing.
Singing, if such it may be termed, was of frequent occurrence in the
camps of our scouts at night, and occasionally one or more of their
Inumber kept up a monotonous series of jerking drawls during the greater
part of the day's march. The most of this was found to arise from a
faith in its curative properties, or, in other Words, such singing was
usually considered “great medicine.” During Nákók's illness a “medi-
cine song” was sung by both braves and squaws almost every night:
and we were unable to deny that he steadily improved each day there-
after, all of which was, by the Indians, attributed to the virtues of the
music. Through the kindness of Dr. Heizman, this song and a melody
sung by the squaws alone have been furnished from his notes, and both
are here introduced with his explanations appended. (See Figs. 54
F. (Braves and Squaws sing in unison.)
A LILEC IN () NIOTYEIR \TO.
N N
d
¥ \ S-
::: Count five in this bar.
(; ºnce notes are sung sliºhtly sharp and drawling.
FIG. 54.—Medicine-song of the Shoshones, (arranged by Dr. Chas. L. Heizuman
assistant surgeon, United States Army.)








278 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN . WYOMING.'
and 55.) So far as could be ascertained, no words are used with any of
their songs, most of them being sung by the continued repetition of a
nasal sound, very near the diphthong oi when pronounced through the
nose. The men, when singing, or more properly grunting alone, often
run into a falsetto pitch. The only suspicion of the existence of any.
thing like Worded songs or ditties came from observations of the man-
ners of two light-hearted young squaws, (the wives of Nákök and
Pinatsi,) While on the march. Occasionally as they passed me with
Some coquettish remark, or comical imitation of English words, which
they had heard used by us, I fancied that I detected also the fragment
of Some merry ditty, but it was impossible to settle the question.
_AID_\GIQ. (Squaws alone in unison.)
Fine.
FIG. 55.-Shoshone melody, (arranged by Dr. Chas. L. Heizman, assistant surgeon
United States Army.)
f—Medicine, ornament, etc.
Among the charms and talismans observed in use, several which at-
tracted special attention are given below in the form of simple notes,
Without attempt at explanation.
An Indian, (Påka-ké-v'it 2) almost blind from syphilis, carried a “med-
icine stick” consisting of a slender black-rod, three feet in length, with
a small rosette of cut feathers at each end, and a large entire feather
hanging loosely from the upper end. Another Indian led a white horse
with galled withers, which had its mane and tail stained orange-yellow,
and a large feather was tied in the long hair of the tail. Pínatsi one
day had a similar feather fastened in the mane of his horse and hang-
ing across its forehead. Singularly enough, all these feathers were
black below the middle, with the outer or upper half white, and they
were always inverted when in use.
Paint was commonly used for adornment with entire disregard of all
principles of refined taste. The material employed was usually an ocher-
Ous ore, and much of the earthy hematite from the Green Spring
locality on Pelican Creek was collected and used for this purpose. The
green, Slimy Cryptogamic vegetation from the same spot was also
daubed in Stripes and patches on the horses in some instances. The In-
dian mentioned above who led the horse with the sore withers, had
about ten large rings of brass wire arranged in the fleshy margin of each
ear, the largest some eight inclies in diameter, at the bottom, the circles
gradually (liminishing in circumference to the top of the ear, the smallest
being not more than two or three inches in diameter. The women gen-
erally were fond of display, Nákók's squaw seemed supremely happy
when gaily dressed in red flannel, riding a noble gray steed, the favorite
war-horse of her spouse, with the saddle girt about with a jingling fringe
of bits of Steel or nails. The decoration reached its climax on the day
of their return to Camp Brown, when all rode merrily in to the post,
decked in every available fragment of colored garment, with paint and
head-dresses of most Wonderful arrangement and combination. Nákók’s
favorite head-gear was an old hat from which the top of the crown had
been removed, With the upper edge cut in scollops. It is customary

RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 279
for the men to ride with the “breech-clout,” i. e., a loose cloth which
COVer's the buttocks when walking, but which allows the bare surface to
come in contact with the saddle when riding. Frequently, when given
a pair of Crdinary pants, the buck cuts out the “seat " on this account,
but our Scouts, being dressed in the Army uniform, wore their breeches
entire during their stay with us. --
C EL A. P. T. E. R. X. V.
PHILOLOGICAL NOTES ON THE EASTERN SHOSHONE DIALECT.
General remarks on pronunciation—Phonic elements of Shoshone dialect, with tables—
Compa) ative vocabulary of two hundred words, with etymology—Brief outline of
Shoshone grammar—Compound words—Numerals—Inflection of nouns, verbs, etc.—
Illustrative sentences.
There are two not simple obstacles to be overcome in the collection o
Indian vocabularies and in the study of the structure of their spoken
language. The first difficulty arises from the irregularities of pronun-
ciation, which cannot but exist in dialects communicated only by word
of mouth, without any standard of comparison as in the case of written
language. Even in our own tongue, With an acknowledged authority of
reference, we find great diversities of accent without corresponding dif.
ferences in Orthography. For instance, besides their true pronunciation,
the words yet, catch, evil, are often spoken by the illiterate as if spelled
yit, kêch or köch, evil; god, even among educated people is pronounced
gawd, gahd, and even glid, (or nearly so;) tomahawk is called variously
tömähawk, túmihawk, túmihök, túmilmawk, etc. Savages are, of course,
much less particular than the lower classes of a civilized community, in
this respect, and, as they never study their modes of speech, great varia-
tions must necessarily occur in the pronunciation of different indi-
viduals. It is, therefore, a task of no mean proportions to obtain
accurately the sounds of which words are composed. But when it is
attempted to represent these words so that others may be abie to pro-
nounce them at sight, we are met with a second difficulty which arises
from the lack of means to fully express the elementary sounds by the
use of ordinary type. It will be necessary, therefore, before proceeding
to the vocabnlary beyond, to offer some remarks upon the phonic elements
of the Shoshone dialect, together with an explanation of the plan which
has been adopted for their illustration in the list of Words.
A.—PHONIC ELEMENTS, WITH EXPLANATION OF WOCABULARY.
The basis of the system employed in indicating the Shoshone words
given in this chapter, is to be found in the excellent “Analytical Alpha-
bet for the Mexican and Central Aumerican Languages,” which was
published as a pamphlet by the American Ethnological Society, New
York, 1869. The author, Dr. C. Hermann Berendt, in explaining the
principle of this method of phonetic analysis, says, “I call such letters
as I am unable to dissolve elements, and I adopt one sign for each.”
The changes here rendered necessary are almost wholly confined to the
substitution of different founts of common type, in the place of certain
special characters invented by Dr. Berendt. For convenience of refer-
ence, the elements are arranged alphabetically in the following table,
with the necessary remarks upon each in a Special Column.
280 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
I.—Synoptical table of phonic elements.
Signs of To be sounded as the equiva- x * *
elements. lent element ** Ikemarks.
8 - - - - - - - - Father, ah.------------------.
à -------. Sack, track. ------------------
* - - - - - - - - LaW, talk----------...-------.
b -------. Big, bat, ball.----------------. b and p are, in Shoshone, identical, the real sound being
apparently between the two.” -
C - - - - - - - - Buch, (German, ch.) . .-- - - - - - - - Same as the j of Dr. Berendt.
d -------- Did, dot ---------------------. d and t are identical ; or rather, the actual element is be-
tween them, and very difficult to indicate.
e - - - - - - - - Cedro, (Spanish,) fee, (French).
e ------- Met, pet, fret ------------. . . . .
f--------- Fife, fifty ---------------...----.
§ - - - - - - - - Go, get, gush. ----------------. In rapid speaking this sound is harsh and guttural.
5 - - - - - - - - (A grunt like ugh).----------. Very much like ch in the German buch, but softer as if
spelled bugh.
* --------- (Indefinite grunt). --- - - - - - - - - -
h -------. Hat, behind - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - A mere rough breathing.
i--------- Marine, centime - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
i.-------- Pin, within . -----------------.
j. -------- Je, jardin, (French) - - - - - - - - - - - Tºmation dj is used as the equivalent of j, as in jail,
€ll3/, &C.
R -------- Rick, docket. ----------------- Jelly
1. -------- Let, lively, long----------. . . . .
Ilſh - - - - - - - Manua, mimic.------...--...-----
HM - - - - - - - - Noun, nine. --------------.....
18 - - - - - - - - Bom, (French,) dom, (Spanish). (Nasal.)
O - - - - - - - - Hope, flown, bone - - - - - - . . . . .
6 -------. Hot, not, Tot ------------------
tº -------. Schön, (German) -------------- Represents the sound of modified o in German, nearly the
equivalent of u in wrqe.
HP - - - - - - - - Past, pip, put----------------- Not distinguishable, as a rule, from b.”
F - - - - - - - - Bear, fear, Severe - - - - - - - - - - - - - Final r, not trilled.
* - - - - - - - - teap. trap, rot ---------------- Initial r, distinctly trilled.
S - - - - - - - - Sad, sour, Scene. -------------. sh must not be mistaken for the sound of these letters in
shall, shot, &c., but the elements are to be separately
pronounced as in dishearten.
8 - - - - - - - - - Amuse, lose, Choose. ---------- Equivalent of z as ordinarily used in English.
9 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Lisped s, practically equivalent to th in English.
t--------- Tom, tight, test -------------- Not generally distinguishable from d, * tº is employed in
place of ch, as in church.
Di - - - - - - - - Brute, flute, lute -------------- w, as in Ute, unite, &c., is written yu.
fi.--...--. Uncle, utter, ultra - - - - - - - - - - - - The sound of tº combined with y, as in young, is written yū.
* - - - - - - - - (OO) foot, hood - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
V - - - - - - - - Vast, vault, vane - - - - - - - - - - - This is not always distinguished from f.
(***) -----|-------------------------------- N. B.-A compound sound usually expressed by the use of
w is otherwise represented here, as explained elsewhere,
X - - - - - - - - (sh) shall, shout . . . . . --...----.
Y - - - - - - - - Year, young, Nyack ----------
* The choice of either of these consonants (b for p, t for d, and vice versa) is usually a mere matter of
taste or custom on the part of collectors, but certain words which have become well known among tho
whites are always pronounced alike, and such have not been altered in the vocabulary. I'or instance,
buingó (horse) is frequently used, while ptángó, which is quite as near the Indian pronunciation, would
be considered improper in the West.
be thought wrongly pronounced bi'abug', which would
Similarly, º (often pronounced pi'ſup by the whites) would
be no less proper. It has, therefore, been thought
|best to adopt the commonly-received pronunciation in such cases, rather than to adopt an intermediate
sign.
Shoshonee group of dialects,
This note will also explain some apparent discrepancies in other published lists of Words of the
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 281
II.-Table of combinations of elements.
Symbols. Pronounced as— Remarks.
*we diphthongs ...-----------------...--------. Dr. Berendt's method of indicating “true diphthongs''
is impracticable in print; hence a different plan is
* here adopted.”
(ai) -----------. I in fine, ei in zeit (Germ). - |
(au). -- . . . . . . . . . Ow in how, au in bawm, These are the only true diphthongs noticed in the Sho-
* (Germ.) Shone dialect, and they evidently occur but seldom.
(ºi). -----------. Oi in oil, toil, &c ------. --.
Eacamples of false
diphthongs. º *
ai Åh-ee ) “False diphthongs,” as Dr. B. calls them, are “combi.
en'... . . . £hoo......I.I.I.I.I. nations of elementary vowels < * * which do not
ei............... £hº * - - - - - - - - sº * - - - - - - - - -> * lose their peculiar sounds, and are pronounced one
us....I.I.I. Óðah..................... after another; . . . * one of the elements is always
ta.......... ...] jºin..................... U predominant, the other accessory or half mute.” The
to ... ......I. Ehlöh ............ .....I. ſ method of writing these is shown in the left-hand col-
wif ............I. Öoleſe (we)'.............I. umn, and examples of words are given below to illus-
war.... .......I. Öo-āh (rapidly wah) ...... trate their use. Thus the French word rien would be
&c. « DIClly Wan) - - - - - - written ren; the Spanish reina, reina, and the English
º lenient, lê'nient.j
* The accentuation of Indian words being very irregular, the accents are not omitted in the vocabu-
lary except when the pronunciation is sufficiently indicated by the orthography, as in reina, which must
have the accent on the first syllable, and cannot be mistaken for reina, with the second syllable accented.
f The false diphthongs, composed of a vowel preceded by a diminished w, as "e, "i, &c., are frequently
employed without confusion for the sound of w followed by the vowel.
B.—VOCABULARY OF TWO HUNDRED AND TWENTY WORDS OF THE
DIALECT OF WASHAKIE’s BAND OF EASTERN SHOSHONES, (LOCATED
ON THE WIND RIVER RESERVATION, WYOMING...)
The words contained in the annexed list were, with very few excep-
tions, personally obtained and carefully recorded as they were several
times pronounced by the Indians themselves, and by far the greater
number have been verified or corrected by comparison and repetition.
So far as can be learned from any accessible data, this dialect is more
nearly allied to those of the Comauches and the Chemehuévis than to
others of the great Shoshonee group. For purposes of ready comparison
lists of these Words, phonetically spelled, have been prepared from vo-
cabularies already published, and a column is also added to show other
affinities which have been traced, and for the purpose of recording inci-
dental notes. The greater part of the information of a comparative nature
has been obtained from the Pacific Railroad Reports, Vol. III, Part III,
mostly from Chapter V, in which are given vocabularies collected by
A. W. Whipple and classified by Wm. W. Turner. Some words were
taken from the lists in Schoolcraft's large Work on the “History, Condi-
tion and Prospects of the Indian Tribes of the United States,” but his
orthography is in many cases quite unsatisfactory, and indicative of a
lack of care in collecting the material on the part of those who recorded
the words. To Pinatsi is the author indebted more than to all the other
Indians for the unusual zeal which he showed in teaching him the words
of the language, which is explained by the fact that he was himself an
eager pupil in the study of English,
282
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
III.-Comparative vocabulary.
English. Washakie band.* | Comanche.* | Chemehuévi. Notes.
All, any. --------- u'it --------------. ô'ryūk, [oyet] manoni - - - - - - - u’mim, (Calhuillo.)
Antelope - - - - - - - - m’boa' -----------. l"a'ntsit!------|--------, ------
Ant-lion, (myr- espu'si------------|----------------|----------------
ameleon 2) -
Arrow. ---------- pāk--------------- pa'kân -------. Illl - - - - - - - - - - - - hul, (Cahuillo;) hul, (netela;)
nobu', (IXechi;) tºxuar, ni-
hun, (Kizh.)
Ass -------------. a's"0--------------|----------------|---------------- Probably introduced with the
donkey; an attempt to pro-
Inounce the English word.
AX, hatchet. ----. hohinik ---------- ho"ni--------. taka/benepa. -- Probably incorrect, as takáb sig-
nifies Smow in Shoshone, &c.
Bad-------------. kisu"nt-----------|----------------|---------------- In the sense of dishonorable or
of bad character.
Bad-------------. titxi-------------. ti'stxit ------- kut.Na', katx-
uxo'a.
Beads. --- - - - - - - - - tSo'mo ------------|----------------|----------------
Beaver. . . . . . . . . . ha’nitsi---------- ha’nis - - - - - - - - - pa"i'nx-------.
Belly -----------. ostip -------------- pi’spo, usa'p . . . Napunim -----.
I3eyond - - - - - - - - - - Onu'ng"a - - - - - - - - -. * * * * * * * * * * * * * | * * * * • * * * * * * * * * * *
Big, great. -- . . . . . pi*pug'------------ pi'afs, ſpi'êp) -- akonte' ------.
Big ELorn, (buck). mºtsambi' --------|----------------|---------------.
Big Horn, (female) tu'kuku' - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -. Dag't----------
JBison, buffalo . . . . . ku'txi, kui'txi. - - - - [ku’t Xil ... ----- ku’txo -------. u/txanſit, (Cahuillo.)
Bitter------------ ki"it ------------- [harxkoni]. ---|---------------.
Black - - - - - - - - - - - - to'óp’t, (tu'o'it) - - - tu'huft, [to'hop]| xava'gare . . . . . tu/likx, (Calhuillo.)
Blanket. --------- bo'hu-"antip ------|----------------|---------------- Literally, cloth - cloak, or cov-
* €)^777, (I.
Blue ------------- tsaidu'it, euu'it - - - - e'fift - - - - - - - - -. x(au)"a/mök. J
Bombycid moth. - e.pril -------------|----------------|----------------
Iłow ------------- ho-et-------------- hu”et, ſhoeeté). ats. -- - - - - - - - - -
Boy. ------------. tu'nuptitsi - - - - - - -. tu’īnūspilk ---- (ai)'pats -----.
J3ring, fetch. - - - - - miya' -------------|----------------|----------------
Brown - - - - - - - - - - - toganu'mf’--------|----------------|---------------- A kind of diminutive of to'gan,
night
Brown-black, or toga'n'-to'óp’t -----|----------------|----------------
dark-brown.
Buffalo-robe. ----. kutx-empu'. ------|----------------|---------------- Literally, buffalo-skim.
I3ug, beetle - - - - - - go'nip - - - - - -------|----------------|----------------
Buprestis, green e"i"tit -------------|----------------|----------------
species.
Calloptemus spré. u’tsik"i-----------|----------------|---------------.
tats, (insect.)
Camp, town. ----. ka'ni-------------- ka’ne --------. ka/pi.--------.
Caterpillar, large. pi’ap’-"ab'---------|--------------- ||---------------. Literally, large caterpillar.
Chief -----------. te'k "ani, pi'a' - tekhuéni"Op. . . . to/önio - - - - - - - - Literally, talker, or great talker.
teguin. -
Cicada ----------. kö"a'--------------|----------------|---------------,
Cloak ------------ "a'nup ------------|----------------|---------------. Used for a loose outer garment,
or a blanket when wrapped
about the body.
Cloth ------------ (See Skin) --------|----------------|---------------.
Cloud -----------. to'mopi ----------- tomork, (plu- |. --------...----.
ral 7)
Coat ------------ k"a'x0 ------------ ſk"axol -------|---------------. (See note opposite Shirt.)
Colia 8. -- - - - - - - - - - o'op't-e'pril -------|----------------|--------------- Literally, yellow moth, or yellow
butterfly.
Colt ------------- do(au)'ts----------|----------------|---------------.
Come -----------. pi'tſunt (came). . . . . kim. ---------- p(ai)'ik . . . . . . .
Cow ------------- kut x-Ém-bu'n go- "i'stua . . . . . . . . ................ Literally, buffalo-horse mother,
ém-pi/a. (female.)
Creek, stream. --- o'gua. . . -----------|----------------|---------------.
Cricket - - - - - - - - - - mě/xu-"a'nik ------|----------------|---------------. ua'nik in Comanche signifies
O3C,
Cricket, (Califor. mé'Xu ------------|----------------|---------------. J.
nia.)
Cricket, (Spider. n"enig"i'pa--------|----------------|-----------...--. ane/-go'nip-pi'a(?) fly-beetle, big,
like.) or big beetle-fly.
Crooked - - - - - - - -. o'nendja, pó'nde"upl.----------- ---|---------------. -
Cry, Weep. - - - - - - - Ya’ga - - - - - - - - - - - -. aki----------|---------------.
Day ------------- tà"hi-------------- ſta'arp]. ------ tu'a'ruit. -----. ta/myit, (Cahuillo.)
Do. -------------- mehtin------------|----------------|-------. . . . . . . . .
Dog ---. --------- tsäri . . . . . . . . . . --. 8á/di [xārdi) --|xaritz . . . . . . . .
Eagle .----------- k"ina ------------- ſiliito] --------|---------...----.
Ear-------------. mani'nk ---...----- Intik'---------. n(au)]ca'ba . . . . nanó'ka, (Cahuillo;) nona'k,
- (Kochi;) manakſum, (Notola ;)
anama, Dadja3 (Kizh.)
Eat -------------. fi'ktºp'. --...------. tiskadó . . . . . . . teka'ba . .----.
Eater .----------- ti'kura------------|----------------|---------------. Also signifies meal, dinner.
* Phonetically, na's baki as pronounced by the Indians.
column are taken from Schoolcraft's work.
Words within brackets in the Comancho
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
283
III.-Comparative vocabulary—Continued.
Inglish. Washakie band. Comanche. Chemehuévi. Notes.
Dight.----------. nai-"at guit. ------. né'me"atsu't, náts . . . . . . . . . .
[na/ue"etxote)
Eleven . . . . . . . . . . shu'ima (simitsi) [Xu'mi-meto'i- - - - - - - - - -...----- Compounded of shu'ima, (one,)
manto'gan. kut.] and mönto'gán (meaning 2)
Pliodes obsoleta, bisu’k"a ----------|----------------|---------------. kö"a’, (cicada.) Possibly from
(insect.) pi'étsi-kö"a', (little Cicada.)
Elk, Wapiti . . . . . . pathi'. ------------|---------------. pari' ---------.
Ephemera. . . . . . . . mu'I-6 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ----------
By 9. ------------. nebuſ ------------. upu‘i---------- pui'----------- pusu/nopus, (IKechi;) nopulum,
* (Netela.)
Far, far off....... mānū’ngua, or má’- [me/narki] ---. mioni - - - - - - - - There is a surprising similarity
nilnk. between the Shoshone equiv-
alents of far and understand,
(Compare Beyond.)
Fast, rapid. ... . . . nă'mixa ---------------------------|----------------
at - - - - - - - ------ YUI - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ſyû] ----------|----------------
Fat man . . . . . . . . . yu'putsi ----------|----------------|----------------
Father . . . . . . . . . . . a'pa - - - - - - - - - - - - - - a'puk --------- mi'o ---------.
Fear . . . . . . . . . . --. meri'ya-ne'sungén,----------------|---------------. To feel? fear.
or meri'ya-xutint.
Feather. . . . . . . . . . titsi'niga - - - - - - - - si'e [Xia] -----. pita'o --------.
Female . . . . . . . . . . pi'a, pi'êtsi. -------|---------------|---------------- Mother, or of the mother kind.
One who is big, (with young.)
See Big, above.
Fight, battle, ná'viting----------|----------------|----------------
(noun.)
I’ight, (verb) . . . . . nă'viting mehtin --|----------------|---------------- To do fight.
Fifteen . . . . . . . . . . mana"gºt manto'- [mo"eke - met- ||---------------- Literally, five-ten or its equiva-
gall. oiktit], m (oi)- lent; exact meaning not as-
beka. certained.
Fingers . . . . . . ---. mana(?)'mo - - - - - - - O- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Five ... ----------- ma'n'a'g't --------- m (oi)beka [mo----------------- All the fingers of one hand. Per-
weke.] haps from mana (fingers) and
u’it (all.)
Fire ------------. ku"na ------------- kun, [ku'ono] . . kun ----------- kut, (Cahuillo;) kūt, (Kechi;)
mug'at, (Netela;) tsa"ot, toi-
na, (Kizh.)
I'ly, (horse). - - - - - be"mit -----------|----------------|---------------.
I'ly, (house). . . . . . ane'Yu ----------------------------|---------------.
Tog-------------- pa-gāna'kit -------|----------------|---------------- Apparently compounded of pa
(water) and a word or words
signifying dark or darkness.
Toot . . . . . . . . . . --- namp' ------------ Inape [nehāp). Ina'mpan ------ ne'ik, (Calhuillo.)
Foreigner, (White t(ai)'bo - - - - - - - - - -. (ta'rbabo) --------------------.
Imall,)
Tour. ---...------- "atsu'it ----------. b(ai)odokºit. . . . "at Nu'. - - - - - - - - wasa', (IXechi:) watsa, (Netela;)
"atsa, (Kizh.)
JFourteen . . . . . . . . "a’t suit-manto'gan he'aru'k"e-me- |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
to'iküt.
IFriend - - - - - - - - - -. hánts ------------- h(ai)itx, [hartsi tegibu : - - - - - - -
Girl - - - - - - - - - - - - - navitsi ----------. teistute-n(ai)'i- |n(ai)i'tsit.----- inismal, (Calhuillo:) literally,
spúk, [*(ai)' in Comanche, little woman.
epixi.]
Glove.----------. mabu'c'-----------|----------------|----------------
0 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - mie'r' ----------- ſnie'r] ...------. p(ai)'k"e ------
God, Great Spirit, tam’-ápa - - - - - - - - - - ſta-e'pi]. ------ pua'nt - - - - - - - - Literally, Thou, Father.
od . . . . . . ------ tSant - - - - - - - - - - - - - 't Sat. --, ------ at' ------------ at(ai), (Cahuillo.)
Grandmother ---- gö'gutsi. ----------|----------------|----------------
Granite. -- - - - - - - - ti'mf-ama'kit. ----|----------------|---------------- Literally, stonesfoggy, (miased ?)
Grass. -- - - - - - - - - , Shº'nip . . --------- lsº [No- Nu’bàt - - - - - - - -
Illi),
Grasshopper . . . . . atu”-------------|----- p sº as an as we sº as sº sº a * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Great, big . . . . . . . . (See Big). ---------|--|-- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Green . . . . . . . . . . . a"hé'nt. ---------- ê'fift ſawhi'pt]. tup (ai)' . . ----,
Gun - - - - - - - - - - - - - pi'a'-et ------------ pi'-(ai)et ------|---------------- Literally, big-weapon; usually
called merely et in Shoshone.
Hand ------------ mo, ma'suwi'ki - - - - - omâ’spänſmo'a] masi"anim. - ..] memoheunox, (Cahuillo;) mérta,
(Kioway ;) mana, (fingers ?)
mana'igit, (fingers all?) five ;
ma'suwiki, (fingers open 3)
hand.
Handsome, protty tsant-mabu'ni. . . . . . [txe-marbu'ni] n(ai)ts -------. e'ito, (Cahuillo;) literally, good
SCCºl.
Hard, (not soft) -- kitānt------------|----------------|----------------
Pſaro - - - - - - - - - - - - ka'mo,ta'b . . . . . . . . ta'bon . . . . . . . . kam ---------. IRabbit,to'Xo-ka/mo, (whitehare.)
lſat. . . . . -- - - - - - - - "abha ------------|----------------|----------------
Hatchet . -- - - - - - - (See AX) ----------|----------------|----------------
II.e. -- - - - - - - - - - - - - Sik(?) ------------. o'rdtsa [Nokul. einpa' ---. ---. silk, that. The Shoshones com-
monly use that in place of he
when speaking English,
IIeavy . . . . . . ----- pu'ttônt ----------|----------------|----------------
284
NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
RECONNAISSANCE OF
III.-Comparative vocabulary—Continued.
English. Washakie band. Comanche. Chemehuévi. Notes,
Here------------- hina'--------------|----------------|---------------. |Used also as an imperious ex-
clamation, in the sense of
come here.
Pieroglyph, pic- mo'ra. ------------|----------------|---------------.
ture, (trawing,
sketch.
High - - - - - ------. Pant --------------|----------------|---------------.
Hill, (see Mount. duºvana'p'. -------|---------------...--...--------. A low ridge or butte, not a con-
ain.) siderable elevation.
Horned toad, (liz- ama’tsingaha" ....|----------------|-----...----...--
ard.)
Horse.----------- bu’ngo, tohuetx...] tihi'ar - - - - - - -...--------------.
FIouse, hut, wig- kat ... --- - - - - - - - - -. (See Camp) ---|---------------. Tsed apparently only to dis-
Wºl Ill. tinguish between camp and
lodge ; ka'mi is used for a sin-
gle wigwam or a camp.
Hungry---------- patherián ---------|----------------|----------------
I (me) ---------- ni'a, mi ----------. Inetsa [nur] . . . . nou' - - - - - - - - - - ne, (Cahuillo;) no, (Kechi;) no,
(Netala;) nona, (Kizh;) mo,
(Kioway.)
Ice, snow - - - - - - -. taka'b ------------ ta'kab [takan] nuave. .... ---.
Rettle, pot. ------ "i’tua ------------- ["it"a] pinhoro'. palmpu'ni . . . . . 'tsu, (IXioway.)
Cuife ------------ "i’hi -------------- *i', ſui'it) - - - - - - "its ----------.
Lake ----------- pa'-ga'ri-----------|--------------. pa-ga'ri - - - - - - - Compound of pa, water, and a
word unknown.
Lance, spear ... --. to'göte(?)--------------------------|---------------. May be a compound word; name
of our Sheep-eater guide.
Lariat ----------- t’Nu'nk'-----------|----------------|---------------.
Laugh, (verb) . . . . yá'nikén - - - - - - - - - - Yāhênet-------|---------------.
ea Il - - - - - - - - - - - - ka’nebitsi---------|----------------|---------------.
Litter, (for the "eté'sa ------------|----------------|----------------
sick.)
Little, Small ... --. teſtits" ------------ º [yör- yù”puits.----.
itx.
Lost, Stray. -----. sóriºgo ------------|----------------|---------------. This may mean loose rather
than lost.
Male. -----------. no'Yogān----------|----------------|---------------.
Man ------------. tu'n III)a - - - - - - - - --. de'nāsptik ----|---------------.
Many -----------. (See Much) -----------------------|---------------.
Mare -----------. bu'ngo-em-pi'êtsi -|----------------|---------------. Literally, horse-mother, or horse
Moon
Morning, to-mor-
r0 W.
Mother
Mountain,
hill.)
(see
* - ºn tº e º 'º sº º ºs º ºs
Negro
Night ------------
ºs e º & & ſº E & Rºº as º.
as ºn s = º ºs º ºs ºs º ºs ss ºs e sº
No, not
Noctuid moth . . . .
None, not any,
pêntxiko. --------.
pia, bi'a
toiya'b
pa-"itsi ----------.
nă'nyak
miſtítsi
toa-t(ai)/bo
to'gan
shuima'-ru'mit . . . .
shuima-ru'mit-man-
to'gan.
No, (Spanish, not
Shoshone 7)
ke ---------------.
Ul/n d'ast
ke'-u’it------------
igitxi. -----------.
Xo'köpi ----------.
xo'köputsi
Shu'ma.-----------
mu'mpits
* * * * > * *-* º ºr
meſni, ſmäxj.
pū’etsko
bi'a,
pi'apsi-t(oi)yab
* * * * * * * * * * *
m iſ st is t X i,
| me/titx.]
too-t(ai)/bo - - - -
[tu'kene] tuſ-
kan. ->
se'ermano, [sé-
momansi. J
[s & mom a nsi-
meto’ik (it.]
No, (not Co-
manche 7 but
Spanish.)
itxokopiſ, su.
kutpur.
* * * * * * * * * * s & sº º ºs &
mia'gorokits . .
taba'reuikit . . .
* * * * * * * *s º a
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
kutki-m-bu'ngo. ----------------------------------
of the mother kind, or of the
kind that goes big with young.
men'yil, (Cahuillo;)
(Kechi;) moi"u,
moa'r, (Kizh.)
m (oi)'la,
(Netela;)
These are no doubt corruptions
of the English and Spanish
words for mule.
Literally, (little water-animal 3)
Literally, black foreigner. ...
tukma/rpix, (Cahuillo ;) liter-
ally shut 3
Shulma, one.
In answering questions this
form is now generally used,
but it is probably introduced
from the Spanish.
kill, (Cahullo.)
Literally, not all.
Inanimato, not used in speak-
ing of animals or persons.
Said of persons and animals.
supli, (Cahuillo;) supul, (Ke-
chi.)
Iiterally, buffalo-horse.
RECONNAISSANCF,
WYOMING. 285
OF
NORTHWESTERN
III.-Comparative vocabulary—Continued.

I2nglish.
Notes.
Perhaps
Picture
Pipe
* * * * * * * * * * * * *
Pretty . . . . . . . . . . .
Prionus, (beetle).
3abbit
* - - - - - - - - - - -
Run, (verb). -- - - -
Saddle
Salmon
Satchel . . . . . . . . . .
Say, (Speak, talk,
tell.)
* s et as * - - - - - - - - -
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Six --------------
Sixteen
Skin, (cloth).-----
Sleep, (verb) . . . . .
Slow
Small
Snake-----------.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
* * * - - - - - - - * *
Soldier. ---...-----
Son
Son-in-law
Sour
Stallion
Stand
Stirrup
• m a • * * * * * * * * *
* - - - - - - - * *
e = * - - - - - - - - *
Stone, (rock)
Straight . . . . . . . . .
Stream
* * * * * * * * * *
Strike, (verb) -- . .
Strong
Sugar
Sun - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Washakie balud. Comanche. Chemehuévi.
11ohô'gáni - - - - - - - -. ["oha’rkani]. ... ----------------
(See Hieroglyph)--|----------------|----------------
to' ---------------. tô'i [to'ix! . . . . . tsu . . . . . . . . . . .
kiwi-et -------------------------------------------.
(See Handsome). --|--------------------------------
go'nip-pi'ap' ------|----------------|---------------.
to'xo-ta’b, (ka/mo.) - | (See Hare). ---|----------------
pa^Ina - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Dà mixa ----------. (See Fast) ----|---------------.
e'uk-Öp’t - - - - - - - - - - e'köfte - - - - - - -. enka'garé . . . . .
(See Creek)-----------------------|----------------
ná’menuk - - - - - - - -. tu'nes'x, ſno- Inok"ina ...----.
keark.]
na'de u0 ----------|----------------|----------------
arki ----------------------------------------------
mo-ets ------------|--------------------------------
te'k"in -----------. te/k"aden, [te/- empa'no ------
koon.
pa”hapa - - - - - - - - -. [pa'hāpie] . . . . . otsip----------
mabu'ni ---------- okubón, nar- puni'ºka - - - - - -
buni.]
tatsuc'----------- ta” tsus, [tae- mok"i'st -----.
txote.]
ta’tsuc'-manto'gan. [taetxote-met- - - - - -----...----
o’ikut.]
ki'Veránt ---------|----------------|----------------
k"à'No ------------ k"exi -------------------------
(See Snake).------|--------------------------------
Y (au)nge'īri - - - - - - - i'kard - - - - - - - - kare' -- ------.
na”"h"t ... -- - - - - -. [ma'"a) - - - - - - -. aab (aī)" ------.
na”"h"t-manto'gan. Una’"a - meto’i- ||---------------.
kut.]
bo'huſpu) ... ------. lpes] ---------|----------------
ë'p"i-------------- é'rspuidoi. . . . . opti'n'o. ------
OYi'te ------------|----------------|----------------
(See Little).------|----------------|---------------.
Shosho'ni ---------|----------------|----------------
taka'b ------------ (See Ice).------|---------------.
Yun (ai)'tits'. ------|----------------|----------------
to-R"OXu ----------|----------------|----------------
ent."o'a - - - - - - - - - - - - etu’ór.--------|----------------
mu'môp"ts"--------|----------------|---------------.
si'kèn-kema'nt----|----------------|----------------
bu'ngo-mo'Yogān --|----------------|---------------.
Nets -------------. "alºn - - - - - - - - - - "ini'na. --------
na'rati' ---------, ----------------|---------------.
timpf. ------------ (tirp)tti'pist...] timp ---------.
to'nānt -----------|---...-----------|----------------
O'gua ------------- (See Creek, ---------------.
Ičiver.)
m (ai)ră'nik . . . . . . . ["e'rpur] . . . . . . . --. - - - - - - - - - - - -
ne"riànt ---------. ku/tstawi'sto- kui'tse - - - - - - -
nets (kietú.)
pi'na. -------------|-- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
ta'bi -------------- ta/bib, Uta"rp] . ta'baptlts . . . . .
Answers also for “it may be,”
&C.
From kiwirant, (short,) and et,
(gun.)
Literally, large-bug, (or beetle.)
Literally, white hare, referring
to the true rabbit often do.
meSticated.
pa, (Water,) falls.
Sometimes distinguished from
Smaller streams by the pre-
fix pi'apug', (large.)
nu'inix, (Cahuillo.)
Hand-bag.
Ilete'ik, (Cabuillo.)
Literally seven-tem. (not exact
meaning.)
This seems to apply to any fitted
garment for the trunk of the
body, as a coat, vest, shirt, &c.
(See also Cloak.)
Literally, six-tem : (or an equiv-
alent word of uncertain ety-
mology.)
The pronunciation of this word
Varies much, particularly in
Compound Words. (See Buf.
falo-robe, Blanket, &c.)
hanetximku'pa, (Calhuillo.)
Name of the tribe; not Noxo'ne
as frequently pronounced.
(?) Possibly made up of yu (fat).
and n(ai)'vitsi (girl, or little
Woman,) with the affix 6p’t,
(meaning a quality,) included.
Literally, having the feeling
of a fat girl.
Literally, black-coat; not used
in the sense of warrior, but
to designate a member of the
Army.
atu'a, (Kioway.)
In some way formed from tu'-
Ilup"tse, (boy.)
Literally, horse-male.
Possibly compounded of na'de-
Ino (saddle) and a word mean-
ing to hang, or the like.
kut, (Rioway.)
ta’mit, (Cahuillo ;) teme/t, (Ke-
chi;) temeſt, (Netela;) tamet,
(Kizh.)
º
286 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTEIWESTERN WYOMING.
III.-Comparative vocabulary—Continued.
English. Washakie band. Comanche. Chemehuévi. Notes.
Sunrise ---------. pent Niko-tsis ---------------------|---------------- Literally morning dawns? Pos-
sibly merely morning person-
GUI.
Sunset - - - - - - - - - - - ta'bi Yek (?)-------|----------------|---------------- 4
Sweet. - - - - - - - - - - - pi'na-kemünt. ----|----------------|---------------- Literally, sugar-like 3
Tail ------------- mung"0's ---------|----------------|---------------.
Talk, tell -------- te'k"in ------------ (See S a y : ||.--------------.
Speak.)
Ten. ------------. shu’ima'nu"it [xé'- Se'ermano"um- ma'Xa. ---...--. nomatNu'mi, (Cabuillo.) (See
mör..] : pnét, [Xu'r- observations on numerals
Imüm.] elsewhere.) Literally, one
(once) fingers-all, abbrevia-
tion of shu'imama-u'it. -
That ------------ sik. --------------- o'rd’t --------. pe ------------ (See He.)
Thick-----------. politundilut----------------------------------------
Thin. ------------ ke-pohiindúnt. --------------------|---------------- Literally, not thick.
Thirteen --------- p(ai)tº-monto'gan. . . [peh” - meto"- - - - - - - - - -------. peta-pa', (Calhuillo;) literally
kut. three-tem, or equivalent.
Thou—you, (sin- im --- - - - - - - - - - - - - - tun't.' [un] . . . . . h(ai)iko ... ----- é, (Calhuillo;) om, (Kechi;) om,
gular.) (Netela ;) oma, (Kizh;) am,
(IXioway.)
Three-----------. p(ai)t” -----------. pa'hist (pe'hu). p(ai)'i... --...--. mepa', (Cahuillo ;) hº (Ke-
chi;) pahe, (Netela ;) pahe,
(Kizh ; pao, (Kioway.)
Thunder. -------. to'mo-yá'ga ------- to'mo-ya’k - - - - to'nā'īnūk ... --. Compounded of to' mopi, (cloud,)
and yá'ga, (to cry ;) literally,
cloud crying, (crying-cloud.)
Tobacco - - - - - - - - - pa'hémo ---------- pa'mon, [pahe- koa'pe - - - - - - - -
II] O.
To-day----------. igi’txi-ta/bi-------- ta'ben, (day) -- au’bit. -------. txiva, [now !] (Cahuillo;) liter.)
ally, mow-day, (present day.)
To-morrow, (rnorn pé/ntxiko ... --...--. pe'netsko - - - - , a'cekuxt -----. p(ai)'ipa, [coming,) (Cabuillo.)
1D.g.
Tooth. ----------- tān"e ------------- tä'man [tani]. - tſau)”"a ... --- metà'ma, (Cahuilio :) tun, (IKio-
way.)
Trail ------------ no'bu -------------|-------------------------------- y
Tremez, (Hymen- a”né'wilts'. ...-----------------------|---------------. Same as fly, with animate in-
opterous insect.) flection.
True, (to be). . . . . iſ Xam -----------------------------|---------------. To speak (or tell) truth.
Twelve - - - - - - - - - - hºatº-manto'gan. ... [*ehe-meto'ik- |. --------------- Literally, two-tem, (or word of
lit. similar meaning.)
TWO ------------- h"at"-------------- ["ehe],"a'hat -- “(al)'i. . . . . . . . . "e, (Kechi;) “ehe, (Netela ;)
"ehe, (Kizh :) gia, (Kiowa.)
Ugly. ------------ titxi-mabu'ni . . . . . tist Rit (bad) . . . ; mama'o - - - - - - - Literally, bad-seen.
TJTiderstand. -- - - - nu'ngèn, manu'n- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
gén, Xumbú'na.
Uncle.----------- era ---------------|-------------------------------
Very ------------ tibits ------------. [tibits! -------|---------------.
Want—wish, de- makamu'rºgen - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
sire—(verb.)
Water - - - - - - - - - - - pa’---------------- pa ſpa"r] -- - - - - Pa. -----------. pal, (Calhuillo;) Pala, (Kechi;)
- pal, (Netela ;) bar, (Kizh.)
Weep, (cry). -- - - - Yá'ga ------------. [ya-ki]. . . -----|---------------- -
What, (Why?). --- hin ---------------|----------------|---------------
Where. --- - - - - - - - hô'gáni -----------|----------------|---------------- (See Perhaps.)
Whip . ----------- 'ni'pa' -------------|----------------|----------------
White ... - - - - - - - -. to'X-óp’t - - - - - - - - - - [to'xop] . . . . . . . tuxa’gare - - - -.
YWhite man - - - - - - tox-op’t-t(ai)'bo . . . [toxop-t(ai)'bu, ---...----------. Literally, white foreigner.
pabo-t(ai)/bo.]
Wife. ------------ âng"obitsi - - - - - - - - k"uºr [k"u'örl. ... :---------...-.
Wintl.----------- nu'e'it.----------. I.--------------- nigá't . . . . . . . . .
Wolf. ------------ i’sha -------------. [ix]. ---------- Xiina'p. --...--. iſsouit, (Cahuillo;) is unt, (Ko-
chi;) isot, (Netela;) ixot, isot,
(Kizh.)
Woman - - - - - - - - - - "(ai)'ipe. ...--------. u (a i)' s p fl k, Imaru'k"a . . . . .
[u (ai)/epe.]
Yellow - - - - - - - - - - o'-Öp’t ------------ [o'hopt]. ------ hörbenkare... s
Yes -------------. ha'. --------------. haſa, [hā] . . . . . u"(ai)'. --- . . . . . hek, (Calhuillo;) oho, (Kechi;)
ho”, (IKioway.)
Yesterday ... -- - - - kint -------------. kūto, ſkirt]. --|..: ' ... ---------. &
You or ye - - - - - - - - ta/ine . . ----------. Ina/meko - - - - - - Č'mim. - - - - - - - - |Used also in the singular.
C.—SOME REMARKS ON SHIOSHONE GRAMMAR.
The closest study of two or three hundred words of a language could,
of course, determine comparatively little of its structure and forms of
synthesis, but some broad generalizations may be made concerning the
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 287
peculiarities of Shoshone grammar, which may prove of some slight
value as a contribution to the philology of the North American tribes
of Indians. Sufficient data, besides what is given in the accompanying
Vocabulary, have been collected for a brief review of this subject, from
Which illustrations will be drawn as we proceed. The matter which fol-
lows is arranged under italicized heads, the main topics being but
Toughly Systematized, although an attempt has been made to follow a
SOImeWhat logical classification.
a.—Compounding of words, as proper names, etc.
In joining together two or more words for the purpose of expressing
their combined meaning by a single term, as in the names of places or
persons, or of things fancifully used, the great desideratum in all cases
is that the resulting equivalent may possess the quality of euphony, as far
as possible without destroying the sense. The greater the original dissimi-
larity between words, the more radical will be the change required to
Secure this end, and, to a great extent, the more frequently the com-
pound is used the greater will be the change, and consequently the
euphony will be more complete. Thus, in the common names of persons,
usually “bestowed by the Indians from some trivial circumstance in
domestic life, or hunting, as mere nicknames,” euphonious combina-
tions are quite the rule, and the same may be said of the fanciful equiv-
alents of such English words as thunder, sunset, and the like. Examples
of both kinds are given in the list below, with their original or extended
form. -
IV.-List of euphonic combinations.#
IEnglish. Complete form, Shoshone. Euphonic form.
Names of Indians, (though all but the second could
be used otherwise :)
Big Belly ----------------------------------------. pi"pug-osſip - - - - - - - - - - - - -. pi*sūp.
Red Blanket (cloak). -----------------------------. e'nk-àp tsi-"a'nilp. -- - - - - - -. e/nkivtsia'a'ntlp.
No Arrows---------------------------------------- pā’k-ke/-u"it - - - - - - - - - - - - - - pā’kake'u'it.
Muddy (bad) Creek. ------------------------------ ti’t Si-O'gua ---------------. tSO'gua.
Comanche tribes:
Root Eaters. -------------------------------------- ya'mpa-tikfira... - - - - - - - - - -. ya'mpati'kiura.
Buffalo Eaters ---------------...-----------------. ku’t Ni-ti'küra- - - - - - - - - - - - - ku't Nimti kura.
Honey (sugar) Eaters ---------------------------. pi'ua-ti'kūrā -------------- pi'naënti'kiura.
Names of Streams :
Stinking Water ---------------------------------. pa'-Sama'ri (!).------------ pa'sama'ri.
Wolf's Penis. . . . . ---------------------------...----- i’sha-u'a (!).--------------. i’shatluſa.
Pistol, (short Weapon) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ki'Y"rānt-et - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ki' Vee’t.
Thunder, (cloud cries). ------------------------------- to' mopi-Yā'ga ------------- to’moyā'ga.
Chief, (big talker). -----------------------------------. pi'apug-te'g"in ---...------. piate'g"im.
$
b.—Formation of numerals.
The basis of Shoshone numeration, like that of the North American
Indians generally, is to be found in the use of the fingers for counting.
There is some difficulty in determining the exact English equivalents of
all the terms employed, but enough has been learned to render possible
a general explanation of the system, which is given below, in the—
* H. R. Schoolcraft, “American Indians,” 1851, p. 87.
# I'or other examples of euphony in compounded words see in Table III, second and
last columns, the equivalents of the words buffalo-robe, caterpillar, (large,) cow,
cricket, granite, God, (Great Spirit,) mare, muskrat, negro, ON, rabbit, satellel, soft, Sol-
dier.
288 RECONN AISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
W.—Table of Shoshone numerals.
English. Shoshone. Explanations,
One. - - - - - - shu'ma.----------- One : (or first 3) finger or forefinger ?
Two - - - - - - - h"at". -------------
Three - - - - - - p(ai)'t". -----------
Four. ------ "a’t suit - - - - - - - - - - - From h"atu-shuima-u'it (?) meaning two-ome-all. Very doubtful.
Five - - - - - - - mana''g't ---------. (?) From mana, fingers, and u'it, all, meaning all of one hand; or per-
haps a compound word, meaning fingers dowbled or closed upon them-
selves.
Six -------. na’"h"t. -----------
Seven - - - - - - ta’tSuc' - - - - - - - - - - -
Eight . . . . . . ma’i-"atsu'it. - - - - - -
Nine------- shuima'-ru'mit . . . . (?) From shuima-u'it, one (lacking from) all.
Ten . . . . . . . . . shu”ma'nu'it. . . . . . From shuima-mana-u'it, one-(once) fingers all, (all the digits open.)
Eleven. ---. shuima-manto'gan Shuima-mana-togan, one-fingers might, (shut,) meaning fingers shut—
then one ; referring to the closing of the fingers before counting the
second set of tens.
Twelve to .------------------. The remaining numerals to nineteen, inclusive, are formed by suffix-
nineteen. ing manto'gan, in the place of ten, to the digits in succession : as,
p(ai)/te-manto'gan, thirteen, &c. Above nineteen the system was
not studied, but it is probable that it is very similar to the method
in use among the Comanches.

N. B. The Chemehuévis seem to reckon differently. Thus forty is
expressed by them "atsu'-i-maxuſ, four-tem, fifty mamiſ-maxuſ, five-ten,
equivalent to fourteen and fifteen in Shoshone and Comauche. The
Cahuillos are also reported as counting in the same manner, the multi-
ples of ten.
c.—Inflection ; how and when employed.
1. Of the noun and adjective.—So far as can be learned from the mate-
rial gathered, no distinction is made in Shoshone between the nomina-
tive and objective cases of nouns. For instance, tomopi, cloud, is the
same in both the following sentences:
Im sík tomopi mabāni ? Did you see that cloud 7
Sik tomopi točp’t. That cloud is black. tº
No distinction was observed in the terminations of the singular and
plural numbers, nor doesthere appear to be any inflection to denote gender.
Certain terminations, however, may be noticed in nouns which do not
seem to partake wholly of the nature of compound words, and similar
endings will be seen to be characteristic of not a few adjectives as well.
Thus the names of the prominent colors are composed of simple prefixes
to Öp’t, an expression which may signify the possession of a quality of
some kind, perhaps that of color. From this we obtain téðpt, black ;
toxop’t, white; Óðp’t, yellow ; and &nköp’t, red. The names for brown,
blue, and green, as given in Table III, are exceptions to this rule, but it is
not certain that these terms are the exact equivalents of the English Words.
The suffix is usually dropped in the formation of compound or derivative
words, but this is not always done.” Again some words, both nouns and
adjectives, end in si, tsi, or tSipreceded by a vowel, and these terminations
are not seldom mere affixes, to well-known Words, as Pína (Pinatsi,)
túnupa (tānuputsi.) The general effect of this addition is to personify the
object expressed by the original word, but often it acts the part of a
diminutive ending, and it may be that the latter is its principal use:
Theoretically there is reason to believe that it partakes of the nature of
an animate affix, and it is seldom used in speaking of inanimate objects
* It is interesting to observe that the suffix are or ga're, is similarly employed in
several dialects, and it is also used as a termination for the Words signifying lake, Sea,
&c., even in Shoshone.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 289
unless personified, though it is often omitted in connection with persons
Or the lower animals. -
2. Of the pronoun.—Little information has been gained concerning
pronouns, and it is not easy to arrive at definite conclusions as to their
use, owing to the difficulty of correctly interpreting Indian sentences
in which they occur. The remarks which follow are, therefore, very
Cruide. -
The personal pronouns are:
I, ni'a, or ni”, sometimes pronounced mi. This seems to be equivalent
to ºne rather than I.
Thou or you, im, (ta/me, plural, is also used.) .*
He, sik.” The Indians often use that for he in speaking English. (sik=
that.)
We, ta/me-ni", (sometimes called name-mi,) literally, you—1.
You, taſm".
They, 3.
No inflections, if such occur, are known to the writer. Of pronouns
other than personal, no data are available.
3. Of the verb.—It is possible to understand the use of the verb with-
out some articulate method of conjugation, though it is not here claimed
that such is the case among the Shoshones; but the notes thus far col-
lected afford no clew to anything like a system of verbal inflection in their
language. The number and person of the verb are easily determined by the
pronoun connected with it, and it is not difficult to distinguish between
the infinitive, indicative, and imperative moods by the construction of
the sentence, the tone of voice, or the manner of the speaker. The tense,
perhaps, is not so readily ascertained, but this can be determined also
without trouble in spoken language. In the Sentence—
Im sik parhi'mabu'ni?
Do (or did) you see that elk 3
It is impossible to state whether the verb “mabu'ni’ be present,
past, or future, but its mode (indicative) is shown by the mark of inter-
rogation. If the speaker wished to change the time or mode merely,
it would be accomplished as indicated below by the use of adverbs of time.
now you that elk to Strike .
1. igitxi im Sik parhi' m(ai)ră'nik 2 (Present, indicative.)
(Are you striking that elk (wapiti) 3)
yesterday
2. kint, im Sik parhi' m(ai)ra/uik? (Past, indicative.)
(Did you strike that elk yesterday 3)
3. im Sik parhi' péntxiko m(ai)ră'nik 2 (Future, indicative.)
(Will you strike that elk to morrow?) *
I mot 7tant - .
4. ni" ke makamu'mgen silk parhi' m(ai)ră'nik. (Present, infinitive.)
(I do not want to strike that elk.) &
5. m(ai)ră'nik sik parhi'ſ (Present, imperative.)
(Strike that elk') iº
The position of the verb in the sentence, then, often is very important,
but the manner of utterance also plays an important part in the eXpres-
sion of ideas.
d.— Exercises in Shoshone.
The remainder of the notes on the language may best be arranged in
the form of sentences which will embody the ideas which it is desired
to convey. The substance of all these sentences was obtained from the
H. EX. 2S5 19
290 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
Indians or from Dr. Carter, but some few words have been introduced
occasionally to illustrate certain points of structure more clearly.
1. Nia "a'shaki, Shoshone pi'a'te'g"in.
I Wass-ha-kee, S-ho-s-ho-nee Chief.
I am Washakie, the Chief of the Shoshones.
2. Ni'a ke kixuānt tinupitsi.
I not bad boy. I am not a bad boy.
3. Igi’txi im pa/heriñn 3 Are you hungry now 3
4. Sik bu'ngo teſtits shanip ssió/nt ti'kiip’. That little horse eats
much grass.
5. Im xó'gópúts, ni'a ke yu'pits. You are old; I am not fat.
6. Hin ſhö'gäni im ma/kamungen? What do you want?
7. Kint, ni'a ke tame mºero, igi'tsini'a mie'r 2 I did not go with you
yesterday, but now I will go.
8. Kint im Sik to/-to/mopi mabu'ni. You saw that black cloud yester-
day.
9. Pé'ntxiko, Ssiónt pa’ema, ni'a te'g"in. I say, it will rain hard to-
IO OTTOW.
10. Sik toya'b onu'ng"a, taka'b teſtits. Beyond that mountain there
is little snow.
11. Piºto'k"a'Xu, hū'gäni im na/nyák 2 Big Soldier, what is your
name 3
12. Im kint pi'tūnt, ni'a igi'txi-ta/bi. You came yesterday, I to-day.
13. Igi’txi-tábi, pé/ntxikotsis, Sik tu'nupits nã/menuk. To-day, at
Sunrise, that boy ran.
14. Pé/ntxiko, ta/me-ni'a miſtitsi Paſsama/ri épºi ? Will we sleep
near the Stinking Water to-morrow %
15. Mi'tits sik ka’ni, kint, kutxim-bu'ngo-em-pi'a tibits ssićnt ? Were
there very many cows near that camp yesterday ?
16. Im ki’vi-et tibits tsant, ni'a era te'gºin. My uncle says your pis-
tol is very good.
17. Tu'nupa hö'gāni me/hiin 2 What did the man do *
18. Hö/gäni im bo'hu-Ma'niip ! Where is your blanket?
19. Igiſtxi-ta'bi tsant, kint pa’ema, pë'ntxiko, nobó'géni, takáb. It is
pleasant to-day, yesterday it rained, and perhaps it will snow to-morrow.
20. Im igitxi no/bu mabāni ? Do you see the trail now %
21. Tu'nupiits kint yā'ga, n(ai)'vits' igi'txi—tábi yā/níkén, to'gan,
bu'ngo, tsāri, u'it' p"i. The boy laughed yesterday, the girl cries to-day,
and at night all horses and dogs sleep.
22. Mabu'ni Sik haſnitsi ni pi'a-et miyá. See that beaver bring my
UlD.
g 23. Kint "atsuit-manto'gan bu'ngo-no'yogān, "aſshaki' in-kánishanip
tibits ss'önt ti'küp'; igi’txi-ta/bi, ke. Yesterday fourteen stallions ate
very much grass near Washakie's camp; to-day they do not.
24. Nohö'gāni im iſ Xam nohö'gălni ke.
Perhaps (it may be) you to be true.
Perhaps it is as you say, perhaps not.
25. Ni'a bu'ngo to/xöp’t, hē’géni im to'-bitngo 2 My horse is white;
where is your black horse 2
The foregoing sentences, incomplete and unsatisfactory as they cer-
tainly are, will serve to show the general syntax of the Shoshone dialect,
as these Indians use it in their communication with whites who understand
them. As Dr. Carter remarks, “their communications with each other
are, of course, more profoundly Shoshone than when communicating
with whites who, as fully as whites can under ordinary circumstances,
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 291.
understand their language.” Hence the difficulty of estimating the real
value of all the notes obtained from a tribe containing so many who are
Quite well versed in English. Believing, however, that every item
which is authenticated may eventually become of importance in the
Study of dialects which are much nearer extermination than many be-
lieve, this chapter has been prepared, and it is here offered as a slight
Contribution to one of the most promising of sciences—that of compara-
tive philology.
292 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
NOTE EN PLANATORY OF THE COLORED GEOLOGICAL MAP.
The general distribution of the various geological formations in West-
ern Wyoming is sufficiently indicated by the coloring upon the accom.
panying map, specimens of the tints being separately given with their
proper numbers.
It should be remarked that the author lays no claim to strict accu-
racy in the delineation of outcrops, a task which it is manifestly impos-
sible to accomplish, unaided, in a single season. Delieving that such a
map, however imperfect in minor details, will serve as an aid in the
more complete understanding of the text of this report, and cherishing
the hope that it may hereafter prove of some slight Value as a guide for
future laborers in this field, it is offered as an exponent of the geology
of this region with the conviction that it is as nearly correct in its main
features as it is possible to make it without more extended research.
In fact it is just such a map as the author would use as a basis of oper-
ations if he were again to enter the same field.
As far as possible the introduction of conjectural material has been
avoided, but in most cases it will be fair to consider that the number of
known facts is in inverse ratio to the distance from the trail of Captain
Jones's party. In some cases the map of Dr. Hayden, accompanying his
report to Captain Raynolds, has been followed outside of the limits of
this reconnaissance upon the northeast. Prospective maps from com-
petent authorities will doubtless soon render possible quite accurate
delineation of the prominent features in the West and south of the dis
rict. For this reason the former area has been left uncolored, and the
structure of the latter has been but roughly designated.
REPORT ON MINERAL AND THERMAL WATERS.
BY Assista NT SURGEON C. L. HEIZMANN, U. S. A.
QUALITATIVE ANALYSES OF RIVER AND SPRING WATERS, SPRING DE-
POSITs, ETC.—THERAPEUTICAL CONSIDERATIONS.
SIR : I have the honor to submit the following report of analyses of
spring and stream waters, &c., examined en route during the summer of
1873 to and from the headwaters of the Yellowstone River through
Northwestern Wyoming Territory, together with general observations
of the medicinal qualities of the springs within the section known as the
National Park.
As a thorough description of the trails and surrounding country will
be included in the topographical and geological reports of the expedi-
tion under your charge, I confine myself to allusions to the former in
localizing waters, and advise references to the latter for particular geo-
logical features, instead of incorporating in the report a reiterated ac-
count of the route. The date and number of the camp, therefore, will
serve to fix the geographical position of streams and Springs as well as
to guide to the correct appreciation of the natural relations. Moreover,
the thermometrical record, which is of the greatest import in the proper
estimation of the medicinal value of a water, Will be found very incom-
plete; this on account of the desultory character of observations, neces-
sitated always in a comparatively new and unexplored country. How-
ever, the meteorological report of this expedition can be consulted, but
it must be remembered that careful readings of instruments for a day
or a month in one place are now-a-days deemed insufficient for a strict
understanding of climate and its influences. Reference can also be
made to the excellent reports and tabulated statements of Dr. A. C.
Peale in Hayden's Reports of the United States Geological Survey for
1871 and 1872.
In consequence, and to make easy by a connected account, I have
adopted the field system, a recital of observations and notes day after
day. A few general quantitative analyses, however, subsequently made,
are thought necessary to be incorporated in the body of the report.
After our return, I found in Hayden's Report for 1872 analyses of de-
posits which cover a great deal of the ground of the Yellowstone Basin,
and you will find, therefore, that I have only noticed such as have some
special relation to a water or have not been analyzed before.
Our journey from Fort Bridger, through South Pass, to Camp Stam-
baugh, (June 12 to June 24,) over one of the well-worn overland emi-
grant-routes, crossed the eastern section of the Green River Basin,
which is mainly traversed by Green River and five of its branches.
All of these streams were greatly swollen and they impeded our progress,
particularly the Sandys, whose origin is in the foot-hills of the Wind
fiver Mountains, and which, then violent torrents, in September follow-
ing had an insignificant flow. The water of these streams at neither
period is acid nor alkaline, though bitter to the taste, and causing a
294 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
burning sensation to the skin. One fluid-ounce of the water of the Lit-
tle Sandy contained in suspension one-half grain of Sand, all of which
deposited one hour after standing. The reactions of the clear water
showed only the presence of magnesia and sulphuric acid. A bit of the
so-called “alkali dust,” a white or grayish deposit taken from the banks
of this stream, contained lime, magnesia, iron, alumina, Sulphuric and
Carbonic acid, and silica.
IIere (June 21) was first noticed a peculiar behavior of the blue lit-
mus-paper used in testing, that of showing after immersion and short
exposure to the air an acid reaction; even after Wetted with ammonia-
Water it turned red after a few seconds free exposure.
Ozone papers became of a deep brown color in a few hours, and thus
accounted for the phenomenon, which was verified afterward at Camp
Stambaugh, and the higher localities of the route, before entering the
Yellowstone Valley.
The waters of the Sweetwater, (June 23,) of the streams supplying,
and those about Camp Stambaugh, (June 24, July 1,) Viz, Beaver, Twin
Creek, Little and Big Popo-agie, at this season, and at the points crossed,
were pure mountain-streams, exhibiting no reaction though they carried
different amounts of sand. In contrast the valley (5,560 feet above sea-
level) of the Little Wind River furnished novelties, and I think my
regret on leaving it was shared by all of the members of the expedition.
The abundance of material for the geologist, botanist, and meteorolo-
gist in it makes it a desirable point for their work; and I have no doubt
of its possessing advantages for study and discovery for the medical
hydrologist, excluding the sources already known there—one large Sul-
phureted lime, (sulphuric calcique,) several cold sulphurous springs,
and one carbureted and oil spring—but including its mild and invariable
climate of summer, (mean average temperature for July, August, and
September, 1873, 629,) and its beautiful surroundings.
The sulphureted-lime spring, two and a half miles from Camp Brown
and near the bed of Little Wind River, into which its water flows in a
not insignificant stream, is elliptical shaped, (315 feet and 250 feet diam-
eters,) neutral, and contains free carbonic acid, (abundant,) sulphuric
acid gas, lime, magnesia, Soda, Sulphates, chlorides.
Its deposit, hard, stratified, yellowish, contains lime and magnesia
carbonates, some chlorine, and a little (not deposited) silica.
The waters, used for bathing only, have the reputation of curing
rheumatism and some skin-diseases, and are similar in composition and
effects to Alia;-les-Bains, (Savoy.*) Even a short stay in them for the
first time makes one weak, dizzy, and nauseated; afterward, however,
after a sensation of depression (rapid beating of the heart) there occur
agreeable feelings of cleanliness and strength with mild thirst. The
following observations of temperature, taken by Dr. Thomas G. Maghee,
United States Army, are interesting:
“Wide Barrault, Eaux Minerales.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 295

º, P: -
*::: Temperature of the Hot " ; Tenuperature of the Hot
㺠; in degrees == Springs, in degrees
o an +3 { * 2: -3 if:
I)ate. 2 # Fallrenheit Date. # # Fahrenheit.
2.Étº: In th 2 := In th
‘z,3: 39 D 1516 CCIl- '3. 3. Sº € CéIl-
a- - At the shore. ter. # * , , At the shore. ter.
1874. 1874.
March 18. . . . . 16. 00 106.8 109 April 3. . . . . 35. 66 107.2 109. 1
March 19. . . . . 13. 33 104 106 April 4. . . . . 33. 66 104. 2 106. 2
March 20. . . . . 24, 33 107 10S. 8 April 5. . 29. 33 105.4 108
March 21. - - - - 18. 0ſ) 107.8 109 April 6. ---. 24. 00 108.8 109.9
March 22. - - - - 24. 33 106.4 109.4 April 7 . . . . . 33.33 108.4 110. 1
March 23. . . . . 29. 66 107.2 109. 8 April 8. ---. S. 66 106.9 108. 5
March 24. . . . . 32. 00 106. 4 108.9 April 9. . . . . 40. 33 108.4 110
March 25. . . . . 35. 33 106 107.2 April 10. . . . . 44.3.3 *109. 1 110.3
March 26 - - - 31. 66 107. 6 108.1 April 11. - - - - 45. 66 107. 1 109. 2
March 27 . . . . . 36. 33 109.9 110, 1 April 12. . . . . 43. 33 101.1 102, 4
March 28. . . . . 27. 33 J03. 6 106 April 13. - - - - 38. 00 97.2 99. 5
March 29. . . . . 27. 33 T06. 2 109 4 April 14. ---. 34.66 104. 6 106. S
March 30. . . . . 25. 33 106 107. 5 April 15 . . . . . 30.00 105 107.5
March 31. . . . . 23. 33 107. 1 109 April 16... - - - 32. 33 105. 1 106.1
April 1. -----. 30. 00 108. 6 110.4 || April 17.. --. 2S. 00 107. 6 109. 2
April 2. - - - - - - 36. 33 107.2 109.4 |
The cold sulphurous springs arise from the base of the foot-hills of the
mountains, about six miles from Camp Brown. One, (Tesson's)—tem-
perature 500—blackish brown deposit, contains lime, magnesia, carbon-
ates, chlorides, sulphates, and abundant sulphureted hydrogen. Doctor
Maghee writes that he found its water to be diuretic and mildly laxa-
tive.
Te carbureted oil-spring about one mile from the Camp is remark-
able only for its oil and great amount of asphalt making up its shores.
With the gases—sulphureted hydrogen and carbureted hydrogen (?)—
rising from its sandy bottom (water two feet deep) Spring up to the
surface plenty of oil-globules, which, floating, are blown ashore, and
there become a hard asphalt after some time. The oil, taken as it arises,
after evaporation of the water, loses on burning exactly 90 per cent.
The water, I think, possesses no interest in a therapeutical point of
view, as the bathing or drinking facilities are small, it being constantly
filled with the rising globules of oil.
After leaving the Little Wind River Valley and crossing Sage Creek,
(Camp 20) WindRiver, (21 and 22,) and Dry Creek, (23,) all of no noticeable
interest, we passed over the Owl Creek Mountains, which were remarkable
for the scarcity of springs and water-courses. One spring, (Camp 25,)
the only one on our route over, gave very little water, very hard, and
intensely disagreeable to the taste. The Water of the Beaver, (2S,) a
small stream, and Grey Bull, (29,) possessed nothing Worthy of note, but
a series of little springs were found a few miles South of the latter river,
which form a creek (Yellow water of the Indians) flowing into it. Their
sides and bottoms were of deep yellow ; their Water contained an abund-
ance of iron, some lime, magnesia, Sulphuric acid, Sulphurets, and Car-
bonic acid combined and disengaged—were neutral, and of 50° tempera-
ture. The exterior of their deposit (carbonate of iron) became, after
short exposure to the air and light, a White impalpable powder.
Camp 30, July 24, was made on a small stream flowing into the Stink-
ingwater, and formed by a large number of mountain-springs, with a
temperature of 500 (air 700) neutral and containing lime, magnesia,
sulphuric and carbonic acids. The deposit of these, tasteless, was scant,
white, and reacted for carbonic acid and hyposulphuric acid.
Camp 32, July 26, was made on the Stinking water, near wbich we
found a large spring raised two or three feet above the ground, With an
296 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
abundant flow of a blackish water of great specific gravity, of strong
sulphurous smell, (temperature 569; of air, 759,) and depositing black.
The water contained soda, sulphates, and sulphides. The deposit was
made up of sulphur and hyposulphite of Soda. As We approached the
river, by Cretaceous bluffs, an odor of sulphuretted hydrogen became
distinctly perceptible in the air, observable several miles away. A
number of extinct springs occur here, but the existence of numerous
active ones near, besides the last mentioned, was indubitable. The In-
dians stated that many large similar ones could be found at the junction
of the forks, about twenty miles east of our trail.
The river, North Fork, which we ascended July 26, August 2, was
fed by many pure mountain-streams, flowing abundantly from both the
north and south. These often consisted of a succession of falls, some-
times of 100 feet, over the volcanic sides of the cañon ; most of them,
however, were furious torrents, over steep inclines, broken by great
masses of rock.
At the headwaters, where the sources were attainable, the tempera-
ture of these was found to be invariably 50°, (air 710 to 800.) They
were pure, or nearly pure, as they exhibited no reaction. The water of
one spring, 100 feet beneath the top of the pass over the mountains into
the Yellowstone Valley, gushed from a hole in the perpendicular rock
and made a perfect fall of 20 feet before reaching its first flowing sur-
face.
The pass into the Yellowstone Basin, August 2. At no time or point
of our subsequent trail within the Yellowstone region was spread out
for us a more complete or effective view of it than here in the Sierra
Shoshonee Mountains. Sufficiently above timber-line to meet with no
obstruction, we in Wonderment looked upon the great placid lake
glimmering in the Sun, imbedded in ridges, among bald peaks and tim-
bered hills; a great flowered lawn here, a dense forest there. A large
ascending mass of steam marked the Firehole section ; others, smaller,
the localities of less thermal activity; the course, entrance, and exit,
of the river, the whole water-shed of the valley as an amphitheater;
the scene backed by the Teton range, with its sharp-cut and jagged
contour, the three sisters of which stood out grandly in the clear Sky.
Nor was our curiosity less gratified when, after a slight descent, we
camped (37) (9,000 feet) on a decline whose beautiful clumps of pine and
spruce, running streams, and plots variegated by flowers, were suggest-
ive of a cultivated park. Around us buried in the woods we discow-
ered a number of circular springs, 10 to 15 feet in diameter, each on a
small terrace. The water of these (temperature 370–420) was clear and
limpid, revealing a soft grayish bottom pierced here and there by little
round holes from which bubbles of gas ascended at intervals of One
minute exactly. It showed no reaction of any kind, while the gas col-
lected was suspected to be sulphurous-acid gas, on account of its bleach-
ing litmus paper. Tests for carbonic acid and sulphuretted hydrogen
were frequently but fruitlessly applied. These springs were remark-
able because of being sui generis, none anologous having been found
afterward in the other hills or the valleys of this region. What rela-
tion they bear to the thermal springs immediately below them (Turbid
Lake) could not be discovered either by their deposits or contents in
solution. Their outlets gave egress to a small quantity of water, which
soon joins the larger streams from the melting snows of the summit.
Turbid Lake is an instance of a class of many thermal foci, others
existing near Orange Creek, shores of Yellowstone Lake, west side of
Yellowstone River, &c., though the surface involved and degree of
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 297
activity differ in all. A common reservoir for two mountain-streams
and innumerable hot springs, it supplies a good stream to the lake. Its
clay-colored surface was in constant agitation by the bubbling gases,
carbonic acid, and sulphureted hydrogen; its temperature near the shore
Varied whether taken near the entrance of a hot stream or not, though
only a few degrees, the lowest being 60°, highest 700. Reactions were
obtained for iron, alumina, magnesia, sulphates, and sulphides.
The shore of this pond presented, as compared with that of the others
to be mentioned, a diminutive representation of the activity of its class.
A Scaly surface, almost 100 feet wide, was broken by countless springs
of all shapes and sizes, temperatures, contents, and deposits, from the
emission of a fine puff of steam, or little bubble, to a spring a few feet
in diameter, varying from 66° to 1929, sometimes two within six inches
of each other differing 20° to 30°, and containing in different propor-
tions lime, magnesia, iron, and alumina, Sulphates, chlorides, sulphides,
and silica. Indeed, some of the waters tested failed to show the presence
of lime or iron, and alumina. Their deposits or surfaces about them, in
all cases brilliantly colored, were as various; green, (Confervoidea,) yellow,
red, or white prominently ; and the forms of them were as many as the
Colors, dry scaly layers, glazed viscous precipitates, and villous or noduled
masses. The last, for the most part, consisted of a green base covered
with white fungiform protuberances, the manner of the formation of
which I could at no time suspect.
A little southeast of the lake, but in the same class, were a number of
larger springs than those immediately about it, whose waters flow into
it, and two mud-craters in some way connected with it. On the rim of
its barren shore, unusually near timber and grass, was a circular hole
20 feet in diameter, borders clean cut, filled to within 14 feet of its top
With a steaming, bubbling, and thudding mass of seemingly plastic and
drab-colored mud, (1849.) It had no visible outlet, but its relation to the
common reservoir of the surrounding springs may be guessed from the
fact of the hollow-sounding surface 25 feet above it, which was broken
by small orifices, puffing steam, lined with sulphur crystals. At times, or
spasmodically, the mud in the middle of this hole was thrown a foot
above the level surface; and strewn on the ground near its border was
found a number of chunks of sulphur which is nearly pure, being nearly
all soluble in benzole. A specimen of this mud contained iron, alumina,
lime, (apparently in Small quantity,) magnesia, Sulphates, hyposul-
phites, and Sulphur.
The companion of this mud-spring, south of it, differed from it in no
respect except by being smaller and puffing like a steam-engine.
Three water springs of large size were found on the banks and in the
bottom of one of the mountain streams running into Turbid Lake. One
of these was remarkable and curious in its violent ejection of hot water
3 to 5 feet from the midst of a cold, rapid stream. The others (1809–
1S2O) gave large flows to the creek from slightly-elevated banks, but
from the enormous mass of deposit (some nearly pure sulphur) about
them, I think they Will soon become extinct.
The banks of Pelican Creek, which we followed to its mouth to Camp
3S, presented for the most part very little of importance until a few
miles from its entrance into the lake, where were found remains of
extinct springs and a collection of active sources in many respects
peculiar.
From a high, large, red bank, flowed into the creek two hot streams
beginning in little springs, (average 1249,) depositing the same noduled
masses as some waters at Turbid Lake. One, after flowing a few feet,
298 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
disappeared through a small hole in the bank and re-appeared 70 paces
below, when it continued openly its course to the river. Although a
few of these springs steamed and gave off the odor of Sulphureted
hydrogen, none bubbled carbonic acid. Curiously, the red bank con-
tained carbonate of iron. The Indians with us used its material for
pigment to ornament themselves and horses. It is of mixed consist-
ency, color, and texture; portions being soft and oily to the touch,
others hard and irrefragable; from dark to light red, with purple and
brown intermixed; compact or loose; and these differences not owing
to the depth from which taken. It is partially soluble in water, (chlo-
rides of lime and magnesia,) partially in acids, (carbonates of iron and
lime.) A portion of the hardest intermixed with White, contained :
Silica, 70 per cent. ; iron, 29.54 per cent. ; lime, .13, with traces of mag-
nesia. The hard white noduled deposit from the bed of the flowing
Spring, a few feet from its source, lost on ignition 9.50 per cent. and
contained 75.55 of silica, with iron and alumina, lime and magnesia.
A soft green, white, and brown granular specimen, taken from a spring
near this, lost on ignition 11 per cent. and contained 83 of silica and
other similar contents. The waters contained iron and alumina, mag-
nesia, sulphates, and chlorides.
Here in one of the average (1242) springs animal life was active.
Between the mouth of Pelican Creek and Steamy Point, on the shore
of the lake, is a chain of springs (1000–1929) some steaming, most of
them with lead-colored deposit and water, all bubbling carbonic acid,
and only some sulphureted hydrogen. In one I noticed the gases rising
from small holes similar to those of the springs at Camp 37, and from
the top of little cones in its bottom. One, (106°,) the largest, and like
Turbid Lake a reservoir, bubbled along its shore, while its banks were
filled like it with small active, and remains of small extinct springs.
One, 20 feet from the last, 3 feet in diameter, temperature 1200, lead-colored
deposit, reacted for sulphureted hydrogen, iron, alumina, and SOda,
sulphides, sulphates, and hyposulphites, and became very acid after
Standing four hours. -
Nearer Steamy Point another like series of springs around a bubbling
pond (76°) exists. Steamy Point, covered with large vegetable growth,
contained a small number of springs, (1842–1920,) all bubbling violently,
and a few holes in the side of a rocky bank, from which issued jets of
steam, but little water, depositing a yellowish-brown on the surface. At
times, irregularly, the puffing steam was more violent than at others.
The ground about these was insecure, as about the mud-springs. The
water of one spring, (1920,) lead-colored and slightly acid, (specific
gravity great,) contained lime, iron, and alumina, sulphur, sulphates,
and hyposulphites. Its smooth, convex bank, 14 feet deep, was com-
posed of a soft, green, amorphous deposit, which, after having lost
most of its water by long keeping, and breaking down into a dry powder,
lost on ignition 9.01 per cent. and contained a large quantity of silica,
Some sulphur, and the same constituents as the water, excepting the
hyposulphites.
From Camp 38 we followed the course of the river, east side, down:
stream, through thick timber and by pure springs, and over beautiful
streams (422) flowing into the river. En route were passed many Sul.
phurous springs also. At Camp 39, which was opposite the head of
the cañon, were numerous extinct and active springs, the latter materi-
ally aiding in the formation of a clear, rapid stream, (700,) which was
very acid and astringent, depositing reddish yellow, and running by a
great mound-shaped bank containing both the active and extinct springs.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 299
16S Water, taken from below all its sources, contained only iron and
alumina, sulphates and chlorides. It is formed by several groups of
Springs about Camp 39, closely allied, judging by the great prevalence
in all of iron and alum. Two springs in one set north of us, (1560
and 1589,) each 4 or 5 feet in diameter, muddy bubbling contents, with
no Outlet visible, emitting a strong odor of sulphureted hydrogen, and
ejecting with it sulphurous-acid gas, contained lime, iron, and alumina,
magnesia, sulphates, sulphides, chlorides, and hyposulphites. They are
Surrounded by countless springs and mud-vents of all temperatures;
the contents of one of the latter, a very large one, are colored like mo-
lasses, and have in agitation a curious intermittent thudding sound.
Of the others, the shades are as various as their temperatures, black
mud and lead, light and deep green, colorless, &c. Six of those with
light green water, (880–1000,) having an outlet, and very acid, gave
Only reactions for iron, alumina, magnesia, (abundant,) sulphates,
sulphides, (slightly.) Two in the same group had water, blackish,
(deposit drab-green,) boiling (1700) and bubbling so violently in deep
oblique holes as to be thrown out in great waves, slightly acid, and
containing iron and alumina, sulphates, and Sulphides. The Sulphur
was hardly appreciable after the water was taken out, but together
With hyposulphites was deposited in great quantity.
Another group, separated from the last by a small ridge filled with
the remains of springs and apparent geysers, possessed not so many
springs but all of the same kind excepting one, (140°,) which had a col-
Orless water, more acid than any tested, and contained iron, alumina,
Sulphates, and sulphides, (slightly).
All of these springs tested emitted sulphureted hydrogen, (some
steam and sulphurous-acid gas,) the deeper-colored the greater quan-
tity, but none evolved carbonic-acid gas. The deposits of all contained
Silica in various though small proportions.
Sparsely scattered along the east bank of the river at the bottom of
the cañon there are some small springs, pouring their water directly into
the river. Sulphureted hydrogen was freely emitted from all, carbonic-
acid gas from only a few. Their salts were the same and as differing
as those of the springs at Camp 39 and on Turbid Lake. One, however,
was remarkable in being something like a geyser in its action, that of
ejecting five feet transversely through the air and directly into the river
a thin stream from the top of a conical eminence.
August 10–Camp 40.-We found a number of springs on the bank of
Orange Creek, which where we crossed had a fine appearance, flowing
rapidly between rocky and timbered hills, over a bright orange, siliceous
bottom, though its valley is redolent with odors of sulphurous gases.
All of these differed in temperature; two of the largest, within a few
feet of each other, were of 1700 and 1960. The first (green-yellow de-
posit) sending a blackish water into the stream, contained iron and alu-
mina, lime, sulphates, hyposulphites and sulphides, and silica, which last
deposited in enormous quantities.
The largest and most numerous steam-jets we saw in the Yellowstone
region were found here, in a gap giving egress to a small stream arising
from them and flowing from the south into one of the forks of Orange
Creek. Its sides and bottom, of deep-red and yellow, included about 50
acres and were filled with hundreds of steamjets, but contained only a few
small holes bubbling hot water. Over the greater portion of its surface
the ground was very insecure, often breaking under the tread and expos-
ing soft sulphur crystals, from the midst of which issued a new jet. Hard
chips of sulphur, in very great quantities, are strewn about. Scattered
300 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
in this gorge on firm foundation were rocks of all sizes, some 50 feet
high, from beneath most of which violently puffed steam which depos-
ited on the roofs sulphur crystals. There were two very large vents,
whose action could be heard a great distance, that of throwing columns
of steam from caverns half-way up the declivity, 200 feet into the air.
These, together with a few others not so large, emitted small, clear
streams with variegated deposits, which united to form the main one
through the gap. Water taken about 20 yards from the greatest jet, as
near as one dared to venture, had a temperature of 1449, while the tem-
perature of the steam issuing from the smaller and accessible vents
was 1969; of the air 592. It contained iron and alumina, magnesia,
probably, and sulphates.
Six miles from Camp 40 on our trail was found a group of springs in
a ravine the upper half of which was filled with extinct springs, where
the water flowing through it was potable, the lower half with active
Sources greatly acidifying it. These were (contents, deposits, &c.) ex-
actly like the last-mentioned, Farther on another group similar to that
about Turbid Lake exists. A large central pond, water 100°, with an
outlet giving a considerable flow toward a small Creek, is surrounded
by many small, clear, bubbling springs with nearly the same variety of
temperature (860–1500) and with the same deposits. Near it is a mud-
hole (40 by 25 feet) in violent agitation, so much so that the mud in its
center is sometimes thrown 2 to 3 feet in the air—great waves of mud
being thrown with considerable force against and over its sides—but in
other respects having the same characteristics as those at Turbid Lake.
No waters of importance were met with during our journey over the
high divide to the East Fork of the Yellowstone River from the camp
on which we visited the celebrated Hot Springs at Gardiner’s River.
The region about the East Fork of the latter river is one of great beau-
ty. The hills are broken by the stream, which nearly the whole distance
to its mouth runs through caſions and over precipices, making fine falls
constantly exposing their structure of volcanic rock, basalt, and tra-
chyte, topped by columnar ridges of metamorphic limestone; the falls
and rapids alternate in quick succession and give life to the scene. As
we approached the mouth of this fork the Great Hot Springs appeared
on the west side of the river itself, several miles away, as an enormous
dirty-white projection from between two hills, looking like the slag-pile
of a giant furnace. Indeed, one’s impression is unsatisfactory even after
crossing the river at a point facing the springs, and admiration only
arises when standing almost at the foot of the great mass of terraces,
basins, and cascades.
GREAT HOT SPRINGS, GARDINER'S RIVER,
As these springs have been described and mapped several times as
well as a few days' sojourn in their locality permitted—for there is still
a great deal of untouched material of all kinds to be observed and ex-
amined—I confine myself to a few general remarks.
Each basin is perfect, excluding such as are in a state of forming,
composed of crystal-covered walls, from 6 inches to 6 feet high ; its
sides in columns and consequently its rim Scalloped, 1 inch to 5 inches
thick; its depth varies 1 inch to 3 feet, its length or breadth from 4 feet
to 12 feet. Sometimes its material is snow-White, (When it has just been
deprived of water-supply,) at others grayish, (extinct Sometimes,) at oth-
ers brilliant brown or yellow with green-trimmed edges, (when it contains
water to its rim, which is either constantly supplied from a main source
*:
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 301
above, or, if this is cut off, percolates from others in its vicinity, prob-
ably through its own bottom, signifying, I think, early extinction.)
The deposit on their bottoms is as multiform as the whole system of
Crystalization. A thin sheet of pure white, looking like rice-paper and
breaking to the touch, is very abundant; little white spheres; to 4 inch
in diameter, with one small opening, their exterior rough, somewhat]ike
a mulberry, interior smooth—also very fragile—exist in all, and in some
COVer completely and form the bottom. Many tubs are filled with cor-
alloid crystals springing from the bottom and branching like trees or
Spreading over the surface in all conceivable shapes. In one basin I
observed, attached to a beautiful sandy bottom, an abundant, verythin
gelatinous growth 3 inches high, shaped like a mushroom, and of the
Same bright yellow color as the oscillating silky substance found more
frequently. The white deposits are sheets of lime, (mainly,) rapidly pre-
cipitated, beneath which become entangled bubbles of rising gas which
slowly molded the spheres. Other forms are accounted for by crystaliza-
tion and deposit of the contents of the water, sometimes modified by
intermixture, with minute organic matter, or even by the presence of
large growth, as twigs and leaves blown into a basin.
The colors of the granular contents of many bottoms differ wonder-
fully ; white, violet, pink, flesh-color, brown, red, green, yellow, &c. As
noticed by observers before, the basin temperatures were curious, often
those of two lying together differing 30° to 40°, and the colder, though,
in general, not always the farthest removed from its source. Of these
the lowest I took was 70°, the highest 1449, with all shades between.
Between basins are smooth covered slopes, which contribute mostly to
the general cascade appearance. They are nearly pure white when the
water is falling over them. Their structure is as various and as won-
derful as that of the basins—generally small radiating crystals giving
the mass an asbestos-look, (when the water flows over it from basin to
basin ;) sometimes a smooth surface becomes rugose by ripples coursing
in all directions, (abundant specimens among the extinct springs;)
sometimes the exterior is shaped like scales overlapping each other—
mailed. Often these slopes terminate abruptly without connecting with
a basin below or with a more horizontal surface; their under surface,
then, is composed of small, many-colored stalactites, finely fringed, and
having the appearance of wings, feathered horns, &c. Sections of level
floor have the same structure, forms, colors, &c., but are thicker and
have larger stalactites beneath. The temperatures of the sources taken
last year do not differ materially from those tabulated by Dr. A. C.
Peale, (Hayden's report for 1872,) excepting one, which we succeeded,
after considerable trouble, in taking at the center where the water was
violently agitated and thrown a foot or more high, (No. 22, 9th ter.
race of Peale);-it was found to be then 1649. All of the springs on
all of the terraces evolved carbonic-acid gas, sulphureted hydrogen,
and vapor, all in different proportions. The water of one little spring,
on the 12th terrace, (1509,) alum taste and acid, contained silica, lime,
magnesia, iron, alumina, carbonates, (slight,) sulphates, sulphides, and
chlorides. The Water of the springs (13th terrace) flowing from geyser-
like tubes on the largest mound contained silica, lime, iron, carbonates,
chlorides, and Sulphides. There was no spouting, during our stay, from
any of these, as witnessed by Peale in 1871, although now and then a
Tumbling sound from beneath the mound or the more violent gurgling
of one or two Sources seemed to threaten such an eruption.
A deposit, yellowish-green, scraped from the surface of one of these
mound-springs, nearly all soluble in Water, contained very little silica,
smºs---
302 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
iron and alumina, lime and magnesia, carbonates, hypoSulphites, sul-
phates and sulphides. The white deposit of extinct springs near the
“Liberty Cap” reacted for carbonic acid (very abundant) and lime, with
a trace of iron and very little silica.
A pure white deposit (powder) of one of the springs on the 11th ter.
race contained lime and magnesia, carbonates, trace of iron, trace of
sulphur, and very little silica.
August 23—Camp 44.—Before reaching this point a camp Was made on
Cascade Creek, which is of no special interest outside of its beautiful
fall into the Yellowstone River. Leaving it and the falls of the river,
We passed the locality named Mud Volcanoes, where were a number of
springs of the same class as and similar to Turbid Lake. Here, flowing
into the river, is a small creek, (Alum ?) which we followed to near its
source in the little divide between the Yellowstone and the Madison,
(Firehole.) All along its banks were hundreds of boiling and bubbling
springs and remains of extinct ones, all of which may be classed with
the last, although there is a greater profusion of clear alum-springs
evolving only sulphureted hydrogen, intermixed with the others, than
elsewhere. One, near the head of the stream, was for the most part
walled (6 feet high) by its deposit on small timber, which, partially sili-
cified, gave it the shape of a yellowish-brown snaggy cone. Although
not exactly like a geyser, it nevertheless threw constantly its water (1949)
with great violence against its sides and 8 feet into the air. It contained
lime, iron, alumina, magnesia, sulphides, sulphates, and chlorides, and
evolved no carbonic acid but sulphureted hydrogen. All of the springs
surrounding it, very numerous and close together, evolved carbonic-acid
gas, but, strangely, some of them only it and sulphureted hydrogen.
The creek above, besides being supplied by many small springs (1000–
1809) on its banks, contains in its bed many bubbling carbonic-acid gas
but no sulphureted hydrogen.
The temperature of the running water here was 840. However, a
tread or the mere piercing with a stick of its sandy bottom anywhere
Within one-half mile, started a thin, hot, and unbearable stream contain-
ing carbonic-acid gas, but no sulphureted hydrogen; of course, as its
flow was only momentary, its relative temperature could not be got, but
the temperature of the surface-sand where no visible spring existed was
the same as that of the water, 849. Above the point where camp was
made and where this phenomenon gradually disappeared, the water of
the Creek was pure and potable.
Camp 45—August 24—in Lower Geyser Basin, and on a little pure
stream running into the Firehole River. On the hill back of this camp,
100 feet above the open-geyser area, and surrounded by a large growth
of timber, was found a number of springs, which for beauty exceeded
all in this locality; some large, perfect-shaped funnels, 20 to 50 feet in
diameter, at the bottom of which, through the transparent water, could
be seen the orifices proportionately as large as the spring, (largest having
one of about 1 foot diameter,) venting great bubbles of carbonic-acid gaS
and vapor. From any point, whether as one approaches them or is
directly over them, their bright azure-color strikes one even more
pleasantly than the sources (21–32, Peale) on the terraces (9th, 12th) of the
Hot Springs at Gardiner's River. This color is not entirely due to Sky
reflection, but partially to the mixed colors of the deposits. A few deposits
were iron-rust, drab, yellow, red, &c., and these were always semi-plastic
coatings, (silica just deposited,) which, as they became exposed to the
air, hardened. Sometimes the mouths at the bottom were oblique,
cavernous-looking holes. A few are surrounded by walls a few feet
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 303
high, and evidently are, or were, geysers. One spring, (102°,) evolving
only carbonic-acid gas, differed from the rest in its sides, not sloping
toward its center, but uniformly away from it and under its banks, and
Was apparently bottomless.
In the most active (geyser) space, the surface surrounding each basin
or geyser for 100 yards or more is composed of white, scaly, siliceous
deposits, is mound-shaped, gently rising a few feet, and only broken here
and there by water trickling down. Frequently at the base there are
traces of little basins, something like those at Gardiner's River; at the
top they exist whole, but never more than 3 to 4 inches deep, thus in
some measure giving to the whole a terraced appearance. The top
contains the spring or geyser, averaging in this basin 10 to 30 feet
across, irregularly shaped, often like the contour of the human ear, and
bordered generally by a corrugated elevation of 2 to 3 inches of various
beautiful and brilliant colors. On looking into the limpid water from
the rim one can see that he is standing on a thin projecting shelf. The
water is constantly boiling and steaming in One or two places, and bub-
bling great gas globules over the rest of the surface; these were car-
bonic acid and sulphureted hydrogen. In one case I succeeded in taking
the temperature when the geyser was in action, throwing water 30 feet,
and found it to be 2000.
In the Lower Basin there are very few springs with rims elevated more
than 2 to 3 inches; one, however, was about 12 feet high, dome-shaped,
having no water visible, but constantly puffing steam, and only inter-
mittingly ejecting water 5 feet. In all cases in both basins where so
great a deposit had formed as to hide from view the water, the internal
border of the orifice was composed of from 4 to 10 beautiful rounded
surfaces covered with little crystals of white, yellowish, drab, &c.; some-
times surrounding the base of these are small holes, went probably, giv-
ing issue to steam and an occasional spurt of water.
The water of the geyser mentioned above (30 feet) contained silica,
iron, alumina, lime, magnesia, (trace of,) sulphates, carbonates, chlorides,
and sulphides. A specimen brought home to obtain the quantity of
silica for the purpose of comparing with a like specimen from the Upper
Basin was unfortunately lost.
The Upper Geyser Basin differed from the Lower in greater activity
and larger deposits. As the manner and periods of eruptions of geysers
have been described and noted, and as our stay was so brief that few
observations only could be taken, I refer you to these descriptions:
Doane's, Barlow’s, Hayden's, &c., and to Prof. T. B. Comstock's col-
lated tables.*
“Old Faithful,” the most notable for its having furnished the best
opportunities for transient observations, ejects water containing .14
grammes silica to the litre,i lime, a very small quantity of iron, alumina,
and magnesia, Carbonates, sulphides, chlorides. The pools at the base
of its mound are filled with water, lowering between the eruptions to 70°,
while those about the vent (containing pebbles) retain a great deal of
heat, varying according to proximity. In some of the latter, just pre-
vious to an eruption, the thermometer showed 122°, 130°, 1389.
The water of a spring or geyser, (not determined,) at the opening of
* Wide Scientific Value of Yellowstone Park, by T. B. Comstock, B. S., Geologist, &c.,
in American Naturalist, vol. viii, February, 1874.
# The geyser water of Iceland contains 5.40 parts of silica in 10,000 parts of water,
the remainder of the total (10,75) constituents being soda principally, (2.74.) In all
Yellowstone geysers this base appears to be replaced by lime, there being traces
only of Soda.
304 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
the Upper Basin on the trail along Firehole River, with a drab, nodur
lar deposit, contained iron and alumina, magnesia, carbonates, chlorides
and sulphides, but no trace of lime.
By analysis the geyserites of the Upper Basin do not differ essen-
tially from each other in the quantity of silica they contain ; the loss
on ignition, however, is comparatively small when the specimen is old or
taken from the lower layers. Wide Doctors Endlich's and Peale's analyses
in Hayden's Report for 1872. The results obtained from four analyses
since our return are nearly the same as those. I think it, therefore,
proper to note only that one of my specimens, a piece which was found
broken off for some time from the rim of a little geyser near the
“Giantess,” and lying loose some distance from it, with a velvety, drab
surface and interior of pearly luster, lost on ignition 6 per cent., and
contained 93 per cent. of silica. It thus closely resembles in analysis
the opaloid, stratiform specimen No. 2 of Doctor Peale, (p. 154 Hayden's
Report 1872,) though in description is more like No. 1. However, it
has only traces of iron, the remainder consisting of magnesia and lime.
Camp 4S, August 28, on West shore of Yellowstone Lake. Two miles
of the shelving beach here are filled with thermal springs, which extend
a mile back of the lake, with characters generally like those in the Fire-
hole Valley. Many of them are walled high, or are on conical emi-
mences—two perfect ones in the waters of the lake, some distance from
shore. The temperatures range from 70° to 180°, and all evolve car-
bonic acid ; a few only, sulphureted hydrogen. One (809) whitish-
water, like slaking lime, clay-colored deposit, and slightly acid, contained
silica, (very little,) iron, alumina, lime, magnesia, sulphates, sulphides,
and chlorides. Another, near it, (1609,) evolves water, drab deposit;
slightly acid, reacted only for iron and alumina, sulphates, and chlorides.
Another, (1000,) with reddish-brown, soft, gelatinous, follicular deposit,
evolving carbonic acid, contained soda, lime, magnesia, iron, alumina,
silica, sulphides, chlorides, and sulphates. This group can be classed
with the springs of the Firehole Valley; whether any active geysers
are among them has not been determined.
In our course around the southern shore of the lake and up the Yel-
lowstone River there were no springs except pure mountain, among
them the Source of “Two-Ocean Pass.” -
On the picturesque slopes of the Snake River sources occurred many
springs, but of no especial interest. The springs at Heart Lake were
not visited. On the north side of the fork of Wind River, which we
followed to Camp Brown, was (September 8) a small, cold, sulphurous
spring, like those in the foot-hills of the Wind River Mountains at
Camp Brown.
In conclusion, the difficulties of field analyses in so new and interest-
ing a section as the Yellowstone Basin will be remembered. The im-
perfect means of transportation (pack-animals) for instruments was
often a not unforeseen cause of disappointment and annoyance in all
the departments of science represented. As an instance, you will rec-
ollect the previously-prepared means to measure the gases at the
sources, and in failure thereof to imprison them for subsequent labora-
tory inspection. Both efforts were fruitless: the first on account of
breakage of glassware long before our entrance into the valley; the
second for the reason that the manner of collecting and sealing in the
open air was not well understood by myself, and though repeatedly tried
was only partially successful—so little, I ought to say, that it was
always found worthless in result, estimating the exact quantity of free
gas. The importance of a correct knowledge of this is appreciated not
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 305
only by medical hydrologists, but more so, probably, by geologists and
physicists; for no one who has witnessed the character of geyser-action
can fail to suspect an immense influence of subterranean gases (espe-
cially carbonic acid) as a motive-power. . .
Moreover, before starting, through the kindness of Surg. J. B. Brown,
U. S. A., medical director of this department, reagents of all kinds—
a complete outfit—were supplied for qualitative analyses; for it was
Very Well known that quantitative analyses could not be made on account
of our rapid transit and the abundance of material. Indeed, much
more than was required was taken with us, and, consequently, much
that under the circumstances became a useless burden : several ex-
periences, in other words, are necessary to select what is necessary. In
this connection, should any new student in this field (open-air chemistry,
under similar circumstances) desire to know what is or is not requisite,
I will be glad to furnish him the needed data, since, after discovering
the unwelcome facts, I took pains to note wants and superfluities.
However, in anticipation of imperfect work, means were suspected and
amply taken to bring back waters, deposits, &c. Of the waters (60
specimens in pints) only 20 were brought unbroken to the Union Pacific
Railroad, and these, through some oversight or unexpected delay, were all
frozen and rendered worthless before reaching Omaha. As an instance,
one specimen of geyser-water from the Lower Basin, brought for the
purpose of comparison (silica) with that of the Upper Basin, had frozen
and was mostly lost, and what remained had deposited all of its silica,
as no reaction for it could be obtained. -
In consequence of these difficulties experienced, and many others unfore-
seen, of the great scientific value in innumerable respects of the Yellow-
stone region, I fear that much that is now passing there will remain
unobserved until such times as the permanent residence of observers is
secured by appropriations by the Government, and their material pre-
served likewise by a properly-paid superintendency.
Chemical analysis comes in particularly for mention in assistance to
geology* and to medical hydrology, a much-neglected branch of medi-
cine in the United States, except when for the benefit of this or that
corporation or landholder. - *
, From my own imperfect analyses, I would classify the thermal points
of the Yellowstone Basin as follows, premising that no definite system
(prevalence of an acid, gas, or base) has been copied, and that the num-
erous springs in the localities mentioned are merely generalized and do
not exclude some with them possessing other characters:
for the localities see context. -
Neutral and containing— ) Turbid Lake.
1. Carbonic acid and S East shore of Yellowstone Lake.
Sulphureted hydrogen. Eight miles from Orange Creek.
Acid and Opposite head of Yellowstone River.
2. Sulphureted Cañon (falls) east side of river.
hydrogen only. ) Orange Creek springs, six miles from Orange Creek.
y 8- e S Sº-'7 S-
* Fide Geology of Northwestern Wyoming, by Theo. B. Comstock, B. S., American
Journal of Science and Arts, vol. vi., Uecember, 1873.
+Barrault—baux minerales—is probably the best to use because the latest.
lºaux :
1. Chlorines Sodiques, (6 divisions.)
2. Bicarbonates, (3 divisions.)
3. Sulphates, (4 divisions.)
4. Sulphureuses, (2 divisions.)
5. Ferrugineuses, (4 divisious.) g
Others, like Dunglison, (Dictionary, art. Waters, Mineral,) or Nystem, (Dictionnaire de
Médicine, &c., art. Eaux minerales,) classify, 1. Gaseous or acidulous. 2. Chalybeate.
3. Saline. 4. Sulphureous.
H. Ex. 285-–20
306 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
3. º* d. | Pelican Creek springs, six miles from its mouth.
Lime and
4. Carbonic acid, | Gardiner’s River.
marked.
º acid Geyser region (Fire Hole Valley,) west side Yellowstone
& silica, Lake
marked. CU, tº Ve
From a therapeutic point of view, as there is no recognized system
attainable, and elaborate chemical (quantitative) analyses and medical
observations are necessary, it is difficult to make comparisons with other
well-known sources. Barrault says that “the appreciation of springs
is like the science of physiognomy; two sources may have the same
constituents in close proportions without being identical from a thera-
peutical point. In consequence, every analysis must be considered only
as relative. Nevertheless, the chemical constituents of a water, the
prevalence of one element over another, its temperature, balneo-th era.
peutical means, the climatology of its position, are very valuable indices
to the physician in the selection of a Water.” In this connection
Nystem (Dictionnaire art. cit.) remarks of sulphureted waters particu-
larly, that they are the most difficult to imitate, and although their
composition is now well known, nevertheless there is something outside
of chemical analysis which is not understood, for the manufactured
waters do not have exactly the same effect as the natural.
I made several attempts to experiment on the effects of different
springs, but as the time allowed was short, nothing was determined.
Gardiner's River prings (external use) seemed to alleviate chronic
rheumatism, and, no doubt, would by protracted use cure some forms
(syphilitic 2) of dermatoses; both believed by residents and the invalid
visitors from Montana. -
However, taking the points mentioned by Barrault, I would suggest
the probable relation of the following springs to well-known sources:
1. All those which emit carbonic-acid and sulphureted-hydrogen
gas, (lose sulphureous principle on keeping,) to Aix-la-Chapelle. Mein-
berg, (Lippe-Detmold,) in chemical constitution, but not in thermality.
Virginia springs, (White Sulphur.) &
2. All those which give off Sulphureted hydrogen in great quantity,
to Bariges, Canterets, Bagnols, (Lozère.)
3. Iron-marked, to all sulphated chalybeate springs, except in tem-
perature, as none but cold springs of this class exist elsewhere.
4. Carbonic acid and silicia-marked, to Rockbridge springs (Virginia)
in constituents and effects.
5. Lime and carbonic acid, to Carlsbad, (Bohemia,) in thermality and
effects, as the incrustating base of the latter is soda instead of lime. In
constituents to Saint Galmier, (Loire.)
By all patients advised or inclined to be hydropathically treated, it is
thus seen that the Yellowstone Basin offers all the means, as far as
chemical constitution is concerned, with the exception of the unproven
existence of manganese, bromine, iodine, and arsenic. The latter ele-
ment was more than once suspected, but in the hurry tests for all Were,
unfortunately as the event showed, reserved for a more thorough labor-
atory analysis. The infinity of springs in all parts, and their great
flow, their variety of temperature, any shade of which can easily be got
at different points from their source, the facility for all methods of treat-
ment, (inhalation, water-bath, vapor-bath, drinking, douches, &c.,) are
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 307
remarkable—probably no resort in the world comparing with this
region. -
A few objections only occur: one, that of the hygienic action of the
position. This is defined by Barrault as the influence of altitude, climate,
temperature, (relation to water,) &c.
Reference to the meteorological tables will explain the unfitness of
this region except for non-debilitating diseases, those of the cutaneous
and lymphatic systems of the skin, scrofulous (but not tubercular) dis-
orders, rheumatisms, and articular maladies. For asthmatic diseases,
bronchial catarrhs, and Some forms of dyspepsia; for phthisis, mala-
rial sequelae, &c., it is evidently inappropriate, and for an additional
reason, that of the debilitating result of even a few days’ inhalation
of the sulphureous air about Springs—a constantly-noted fact by many
members of your party. At present there is one other objection, reme-
diable, that of the expensive accessibility to invalids of this basin, this
to be corrected only by a direct road from the Union Pacific Railroad,
and suitable measures for their retention.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant, -
C. L. HEIZMANN,
- Assistant Surgeon U. S. A.
Capt. W. A. JONES, U. S. Engineers.
BOTANICAL REPORT.
J3Y. DR. C. C. PARRY.
LIST OF PILANT'S COLLECTED.
DEAR SIR: The following comprises a list of the plants collected on
the route of the Northwestern Wyoming expedition, under your com-
mand, during the season of 1873.
The numbers affixed are those under which the Collection has been
distributed to the principal herbaria of this country and Europe.
A general sketch of the botanical features of the country passed over,
with notices of rare plants and descriptions of the new species collected
on the expedition, has been published by your permission in the Ameri-
can Naturalist, being included in consecutive numbers of vol. viii, for
January, February, March, and April, 1873.
Trespectfully, your obedient servant,
C. C. PARRY.
Capt. W. A. JONES,
Engineer Corps, U. S. A.
DAVENPORT, IOW.A, April 1, 1874.
BOTANICAL LIST.
No. 1. Clematis Douglasii, Hook., Camp Stambaugh, June.
No. 2. Aquilegia flavescens, Watson, Yellowstone Park, August.
Aquilegia carulea, Torr, Owl Creek range, July.
No. 3. Aquilegia Jonesii, n. sp., Owl Creek range, July.
No. 4. Delphinium Menziesii, DC., Fort Bridger, June.
No. 5. Delphinium azureum, Michx., Wind River, July.
No. 6. Ramunculus occidentalis, Nutt., Little Sandy, June.
No. 7. Ramunculus flamula, L., Stinking water, July.
No. 8. Ranunculus glaberrimus, Hook, Stinking water, July.
No. 9. Anemone multifida, DC., Owl Creek, July.
No. 10. Trollius law.us, Salisb., Wind River range, July.
No. 11. MyoSurus minimus, L., Snake River, September.
No. 12. Thalictrum alpinum, L., Wind River range, July.
No. 13. Stanleya tomentosa, n. sp., Owl Creek, July.
No. 14. Stanleya viridiflora, Nutt., Wind River, July.
No. 15. Draba ventosa, Gray, n. Sp. Snake Pass, September.
No. 16. Draba alpina, war. densifolia, Pacific Springs, June.
No. 17. Smelowskia calycina, Mey., Stinking water divide, August.
No. 18. Arabis canescens, Nutt., var., Sweetwater, June.
No. 19. Sisymbrium junceum, Bieb., Green River, June.
No. 20. Vesicaria alpina, Nutt., Green River, June.
No. 21. Vesicaria Ludoviciana, DC., Wind River, July.
No. 22. Capsella divaricata, Walp., Little Sandy, June.
No. 23. Lepidium montanum, Nutt., South Pass, June.
No. 24. Thelypodium sagittatum, Endl., Fort Stambaugh, June.
No. 25. Physaria didymocarpa, Hook, Red Cañon, July.
{}
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 309
No. 26. Nasturtium lyratum, Nutt, Yellowstone, August.
No. 27. Subularia aquatica, L., Yellowstone Lake, August.
No. 28. Arabis Drummondii, Gray, Stinking water Pass, August.
No. 29. Sisymbrium canescens, Nutt., Stinking water, August.
No. 30. Arabis canescens, Nutt., Stinking water, August.
No. 31. Draba alpina, L., Stinking water, August.
No. 32. Cleome aurea, Hook, Green River, June.
No. 33. Viola Nuttallii, Pursh, Wind River, July.
No. 34. Viola Nuttallii, var., Stinking water, August.
No. 35. Arenaria, Franklinii, Dougl, Wind River, July.
No. 36. Arenaria Hookeri, Nutt., Wind River, July.
No. 37. Arenaria congesta, Nutt., Wind River, July.
No. 38. Arenaria pungens, Nutt., Stinking water, July.
No. 39. Arenaria arctica, Steven, Owl Creek, July.
No. 40. Arenaria Rossii, R. Br., Owl Creek range, July.
No. 41. Cerastium arvense, L., Owl Creek, July.
No. 42. Lychnis Drummondii, Watson, Owl Creek, July.
No. 43. Lychnis Ajamensis, Regel., Owl Creek range, July.
No. 44. Spragued umbellata, Torr., Stinking water, August.
No. 45. Lewisia rediviva, Pursh, Wind River, July.
No. 46. Calamdrina pygmaea, Gray, Wind River, July.
No. 47. Calyptridium roseum, Watson, Green River, June.
No. 48. Sphaeralcea acerifolia, Nutt., Snake River, September.
No. 49. Rhamnus almifolius, L. Her., Stinking water, July.
No. 50. Lathyrus linearis, Nutt., Wind River, July.
No. 51. Thermopsis fabacea, var., montana, Gray, Big Sandy, June
No. 52. Lupinus pusillus, L., Green River, June. -
No. 53. Lupinus minimus, Doug., var., Stinking water, August.
No. 54, Lupinus sericeus, Pursh, (?) Wind River, July.
No. 55. Lupinus argenteus, Watson, Wind River, July.
No. 56. Lupinus argenteus, var., Yellowstone, August.
No. 57. Lupinus ca’spitosus, Nutt., Stinking water, July.
No. 58. Lupinus cæspitosus, Nutt., var., Yellowstone Falls, August.
No. 59. Hedysarum boreale, Nutt., Owl Creek range, July.
No. 60. Hedysarum Mackenziei, Rich., Wind River, July.
No. 61. Trifolium gymnocarpon, Nutt, Green River, June.
No. 62. Trifolium Andimum, Nutt., Ham's Fork, June.
No. 63. Trifolium longipes, Nutt., Sweetwater, June.
No. 64. Trifolium dasyphyllum, T. and G., Wind River, July.
No. 65. Astragalus ventorum, n. sp., Gray, Wind River, July.
Astragalus megacarpus, Gray, Camp Brown, July.
No. 66. Astragalus sericoleucus, Gray, Wind River, July.
No. 67. Astragalus triphyllus, Pursh, Owl Creek, July.
No. 68. Astragalus simplicifolius, Gray, Green River, June.
No. 69. Astragalus cæspitosus, Nutt., Stinking water, July.
No. 70. Astragalus Missouriensis, Nutt., Wind River, July.
No. 71. Astragalus glabriusculus, Gray, Wind River, July.
No. 72. Astragalus lotiflorus, Hook., Wind River, July.
No. 73. Astragalus Geyeri, Gray, Green River, June.
No. 74. Astragalus Purshii, Doug., Green River, June.
No. 75. Astragalus flavus, Nutt., Green River, June.
Astragalus Grayi, n. Sp., Stinking Water, July.
No. 76. Astragalus pubentissimts, Nutt., Green River, June.
No. 77. Astragalus Shortianus, Nutt., Green River, June.
No. 78. Astragalus hypoglottis, L., Green River, June.
No. 79. Astragalus glareosus, Dougl., Green River, June.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
. S0.
. 81.
. S2.
&T)
. OCP,
. S4.
. Astragalus Kentrophyta, Gray, StinkingWater, July.
. Orytropis campestris, L., var., Green River, June.
. Oxytropis campestris, L., var., Yellowstone, August.
. SS.
. Oxytropis viscida, Nutt.(?), Wind River, July.
. Oxytropis Lamberti, Pursh, Wind River, July.
. Oxytropis Lamberti, Pursh, var., Yellowstone, August.
. Oxytropis lagopus, Nutt., Pacific Springs, June.
. Spiraea betula folia, Pallas, Yellowstone, August.
. Spira’a ca’spitosa, Nutt., Owl Creek range, July.
. Purshia tridentata, DC., Pacific Springs, June.
. Ivesia Gordoni, Gray, Stinking water Pass, August.
. Potentilla Plattensis, Nutt., Stinking water Pass, August.
. Parmassia fimbriata, Banks, Stinking water, July.
. Heuchera cylindrica, Dougl., Stinking water, July.
. 100. Saarifraga Jamesii, Torr., Owl Creek range, July.
. 101. Savifraga debilis, Engel., Owl Creek range, July.
. 102. Mitella trifida, Grah., Stinking water, July.
. 103. Tellima tenella, Benth. & Hook., Sweetwater, June.
. 104 Ribes cereum, Dougl., Sweetwater, June.
. 105. Ribes lacustre, L., Yellowstone, August.
. 106. Ribes setosum, Dougl., Yellowstone, August.
. 120. Peucedamum
. 121.
. 122. Cymopterus anisatus, var., Gray, Wind River, July.
. 123. Cymopterus Fendleri, Gray, Green River, June.
. 124. Valeriana dioica, L., Stinking water, July.
. 125.
. 126. Aster Parryi, n. sp., Gray, Green River, June.
. 127.
. 128. Aster adscendens, Lindl., Yellowstone, August.
. 129. Aster montanus, Rich., Snake River Pass, September.
. 130. Aster conspicuus, Lindl., Yellowstone, August.
. 131.
. 132.
135.
Astragalus junceus, Nutt., Green River, June.
Astragalus campestris, Nutt., var., Dry Sandy, June.
Astragalus microcystis, Gray, Stinking water, July.
Astragalus microcystis, var., Stinking water, July.
Astragalus oroboides, Hornem, Stinking water, July.
Oxytropis campestris, L., var.(?), Owl Creek, July.
. Ribes leptamthum, Gray, Wind River, July.
. 108, Ribes viscossissimum, Pursh, Yellowstone, August.
. Ribes bracteosum, Dougl., Wind River, July.
... iio. Epilobium alpinum, L., Stinking water, July.
. OEmothera Andina, Nutt., Green River, June.
. 112. OEmothera scapoidea, Nutt., Green River, June.
. OFnothera breviflora, Nutt, Yellowstone, August.
. 114. OEmothera ca’spitosa, Nutt., Green River, June.
. Zauschneria Californica, Presl., Stinking water, July.
. 116. Bupleurium Ranunculoides, L., Yellowstone, August.
. Cymopterus montanus, Nutt., Green River, June.
. Carum Gardineri, Benth. & Hook., Stinking water, July.
. Peucedanum leiocarpum, Hook, Yellowstone, August.
, (?), Stinking water, August.
Ligusticum Scopulorum, Gray, Yellowstone, August.
Kellogia galeoides, Torr., Stinkingwater, July.
Aster pulchellas, D. C. Eaton, Yellowstone, August.
Aster integrifolius, Nutt., Yellowstone, August.
Macharanthera canescens, Gray, Yellowstone, August.
. Aster elegans, Nutt., Yellowstone, August.
. Aster Engelmanni, Gray, Yellowstone, August.
Erigeron ursinum, D. C. Eaton, Yellowstone, August.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN wyoming. 311
NO.
No.
No.
No.
No.
No.
No.
NO.
NO.
NO.
No.
NO.
No.
No.
No.
No.
No.
No.
No.
NO.
NO.
No.
. 136.
. 137.
. 138.
. 139.
. 140.
. Solidago Virga-aurea, L., Yellowstone, August.
. Townsendia spathulata, Nutt., Wind River, July.
. Townsendia strigosa, Nutt., Wind River, July.
. Townsendia Parryi, n. sp., D. C. Eaton, Wind River, July.
. Townsendia spathulata, var. (?), Stinking water Pass, August,
Erigeron compositum, Pursh, Green River, June.
Erigeron radicatus, Hook. (?), Wind River, July.
Erigeron radicatus, Hook., var. (?), Wind River, July.
Erigeron canescens, Hook., Wind River, July.
Drigeron concinum, T. and Gr., Green River, June.
Townsendia condensata, n. sp., Washake's Needles, July.
. Chaºnactis Douglasii, H. and A., Green River, June.
. Chrysopsis hispida, Hook., Yellowstone, August.
. Bahia Cucophylla, DC., Stinking water, July.
. A plopappus inuloides, Nutt., Wind River, July.
. Schkuria integrifolia, n. sp., Gray, Wind River, July.
. Grindelia squarrosa, Dunal., Wind River, July.
. Rudbeckia occidentalis, Nutt., Snake River, September.
. 153.
. 154.
. 155.
. 156.
. 157.
. 158.
. 159.
. 160.
. 161.
. 162.
. 163.
. 164.
. 165.
. 166.
. 167.
168.
169,
170.
171.
172.
173.
174.
175.
176.
177.
17S.
179.
1S0.
1S1.
1S2.
183.
184.
185.
186.
187.
188.
No. 189.
190.
Arnica Parryi, n. sp., Gray, Yellowstone, August.
Armica amgustifolia, var. (?), Yellowstone, August.
Arnica angustifolia, var. (?), Fort Stambaugh, June.
Arnica longifolia, D. C. Eaton, Snake River Pass, September,
Actinella acaulis, Nutt., Stinking water, July.
Actinella grandiflora, T. and Gr., Wind River, July.
Cosmidium gracile, T. and Gr., Green River, June.
Tetradymia camescens, var. inermis, Nutt., Green River, June.
Aplopappus suffruticosus, Gray, Yellowstone, August.
Aplopappus acaulis, Gray, Green River, June.
Aplopappus Nuttallii, T. and Gr., Wind River, July.
Aplopappus multicaulis, Gray, Wind River, July.
Balsamorhiza Hookeri, Nutt., Pacific Springs, June.
Balsamorhiza sagittata, Nutt., Wind River, July.
Senecio amplectens, var. taracicoides, Gray, Yellowstone, Aug.
Senecio Fremontii, Gray, Stinking water, July.
Senecio canus, Hook., Yellowstone, August.
Senecio Andimus, Nutt., Yellowstone, August.
Senecio lugems, Rich., Yellowstone, August.
Antennaria dimorpha, Nutt., Green River, June.
Antennaria dioica, Gaertn., Owl Creek, July.
Antennaria luzuloides, Torr. and Gray, Stinking water, July.
Antennaria alpina, Gaertn., var. (?), Stinking water, July.
Antennaria Carpathica, R. Br., Wind River, July.
Antennaria racemosa, Hook, Stinking water, July.
Tamacetum capitatum, Nutt., Wind River, July.
Tanacetum Nuttallii, T. and Gr., Wind River, July.
Artemesia pedatifida, Nutt., Green River, June.
Artemesia spinescens, D. C. Eaton, Green River, June.
Artemesia incompta, Nutt., Owl Creek, July.
Artemesia scopulorum, Gray, Yellowstone, August.
Artemesia Ludoviciana, Nutt., var., Yellowstone, August.
Troasimon parviflorum, Nutt., Green River, June.
Macrorrhymchus glaucus, D. C. Eaton, Green River, June.
Trowimon aurantiacum, Hook. (?), Green River, June.
Hieracium Scouleri, Hook., Yellowstone, August.
Stephanomeria paniculata, Nutt., Stinking water, July.
Crepis accuminata, Nutt., Wind River, July.
312
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
NO.
No.
No.
No.
No.
No.
No.
NO.
No.
191.
192.
193.
194.
195.
196.
197.
198.
199.
. 200.
. 201.
. 202.
. 203.
. 204.
. 205.
. 206.
. 207.
. 208.
. 209.
. 210.
. Pentstemon glaucus, Graham, Stinking Water, July.
. Mimulus Lewisii, Pursh, StinkingWater, July.
. Mimulus moschatus, Dougl., Stinking water, July.
. Eunanus Fremontii, Gray, Yellowstone, August.
. 215.
. 216.
. Castilleia flava, Watson, Stinking water, July.
. Orthocarpus Parryi, n. sp., Gray, Yellowstone, August.
. Castilleia affinis, H. and A., Nebraska, June.
. 220.
. 221.
. 222.
. 223.
. 224.
. 225.
. 226.
. 227.
. 228.
. 229.
. 230.
. 231.
. 232.
. 233.
. 234.
. 235.
. 236.
. 237.
. 238.
. 239.
Crepis occidentalis, Nutt., Wind River, July.
Porterella carnulosa, Torr., Yellowstone, August.
Bryanthus Empetriformis, Gray, Stinking water, July.
Ledum glamdulosum, Nutt., Yellowstone, August.
Gaultheria Myrsinites, Hook., Yellowstone, August.
Monotropa hypopothys, L., Yellowstone, August.
Lonicera carrulea, L., Yellowstone, August.
Pyrola dentata, Hook., Yellowstone, August.
IJodecatheon Jleadia, L., Wind River, July.
Androsace filiformis, L., Yellowstone, August.
Androsace Chamajasme, L., Owl Creek, July.
Douglasia montana, Gray, Washakee's Needles, July.
Phelipaea lutea, n. sp., Owl Creek, July.
Phelipaca fasciculata, Nutt., Owl Creek, July.
Pemtstemon Menziesii, Hook, Stinking water, August.
Pentstemon Menziesii, Hook., var., Snake Pass, September.
Pentstemon laricifolius, H. and A., Owl Creek, July.
Pentstemon deustus, Dougl., Stinking water, July.
Pentstemon gracilis, Nutt., Pacific Springs, June.
Pentstemon secundiflorus, Benth., Yellowstone, August.
Pentstemon humilis, Nutt, Pacific Springs, June.
Pedicularis Parryi, Gray, var. (?), Yellowstone, August.
Castilleia breviflora, Nutt., Stinking water, July.
Echinospermum deflexum, Lehm., Yellowstone, August.
Echinospermum deflexum, Lehm., var., Yellowstone, August.
Myosotis alpestris, L., Stinking water, July.
Myosotis alpestris, L., var., Stinking water, July.
Myosotis alpestris, L., var., Yellowstone, August.
Eritrichium villosum, var. aretioides, DC., Wind River, July.
Mertensia alpina, Don., Stinking water, July.
Mertensia alpina, Don., var., Stinking water, July.
Eritrinchium glomeratum, DC., war. (?), Green River, June.
Phacelia circinata, Jacq., Stinkingwater, July.
Phloa bryoides, Nutt., Pacific Springs, June.
Phloa canescens, T. and Gr., Green River, June.
Phloa Douglasii, Hook., Owl Creek, July.
Phloa longifolia, Nutt., Green River, June.
Gilia liniflora, Benth., Stinking water, July.
Gilia nudicaulis, Gray, Wind River, July.
Gilia pungens, Benth., var., Green River, June.
Gilia inconspicua, Dougl, Green River, June.
Gilia congesta, Hook., Green River, June.
Gilia iberidifolia, Benth., Green River, September.
Gilia spicata, Nutt., Green River, June.
. 240. Gilia Breweri, Gray, Dry Sandy, June.
. 241.
. 242.
. 243.
. 244.
Colomia gracilis, Dougl., var., Green River, June.
Polemonium confertum, Gray, Wind River, July.
Polemonium parvifolium, Nutt., Stinking water, July.
Swertia perennis, L., Yellowstone Falls, August.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 313
. 245.
. 246.
. 247.
. 248.
. 249.
. 250.
. 251.
. 252.
. 253.
. 254.
. 255.
. 256.
. 257.
. 258.
. 259.
. 260.
. 261.
. 262.
. 263.
. 264.
. 265.
. 266.
, 267.
, 268.
. 269.
. 27().
. 271.
. 272.
. 273.
. 274.
. 275.
. 276.
. 277.
. 278.
. 279.
. 280.
. 281.
. 282.
. 283.
. 284.
. 285.
. 286.
. 287.
. 288.
. 289.
. 290.
, 291.
. 292.
, 293.
. 294.
. .295.
, 296.
. 297.
, 29S.
, 299.
. 300.
Gentiana detonsa, Fries., Yellowstone, August.
Asclepias brachystephana, Torr., Green River, June.
Acerates viridiflora, Ell., Owl Creek, July.
Polygonum imbricatum, Nutt., Stinking water, July.
Rumea, paucifolius, Nutt., Sweetwater, June.
Eriogonum flavum, Nutt., Owl Creek, July.
Eriogonum brevicaule, Nutt., Wind River, September.
Eriogonum ovalifolium, Nutt., Green River, June.
Oaytheca dendroidea, Nutt., Big Sandy, June.
Paronychia sessilliflora, Nutt., Wind River, July.
Shepherdia argentea, Nutt., Wind River, September.
Fleagnus argenteus, Nutt., Green River, September.
Comandra pallida, DC., Wind River, July.
Atriplea, endolepis, Watson, ined., Stinking water, July.
Grayia polygaloides, H. and A., Green River, June.
Rochia prostrata, Schrad., Green River, September.
Suaeda depressa, Pursh, Green River, September.
Atriplea, canescens, Watson, ined., Green River, June.
Betula occidentalis, Hook, Green River, June.
Salia, (?), Wind River, July.
Juniperus Sabina, var. procumbens, Pursh, Owl Creek, July.
Calochortus Eurycarpus, Watson, Yellowstone, August.
Fritillaria atropurpurea, Nutt., Wind River, July.
Fritillaria pudica, Spreng, Yellowstone, August.
Spiranthes Romanzofiana, Cham., Yellowstone, August.
Allium brevistylum, Watson, Yellowstone, August.
Allium Schaemoprasum, L., Yellowstone, August.
Allium Schaemopraswm, L., Yellowstone, August.
Allium reticulatum, (Watson, 1181,) Sweetwater, June.
Allium cernwum, Roth, Owl Creek, July.
Allium reticulatum, Fras., Green River, June.
Juncus aiphioides, E. Mey., Yellowstone, August.
Carea, Douglasii, Boott., Fort Bridger, June.
Carea, Raymoldsii, Dewey, Yellowstone, August.
Carea, vitilus, Fr., Yellowstone, August.
Carea: aquatilis, Wahl., Yellowstone, August.
Carea, rigida, Good., Yellowstone, August.
Carew Hoodii, Boott., Wind River, July.
Carew festiva, Dewey, Yellowstone, August.
Carea: Douglasii, Boott., StinkingWater, July.
Carea, tenwirostris, Olney, ined., Yellowstone, July.
Carea, vulgaris, Fries., Yellowstone, August.
Carea, Jamesii, Torr., Yellowstone, August.
Carea leporina, L., Stinking water, July.
Eriophorum polystachyon, L., Yellowstone, August.
Raeleria cristata, Pers., Yellowstone, August.
Poa, , (?), Yellowstone, August.
Tristeum subspicatum, Beauv., Stinking water, July.
Agrostis scabra, Willd.; Yellowstone, August.
JFestuca , (?), Yellowstone, August.
Poa tenuifolia, Nutt. (?), Yellowstone, August.
Melica bulbosa, Geyer, Yellowstone, August.
Beckmannia cruciformis, Host., StinkingWater, July.
Elymus condensatus, Pursh, Wind River, July.
Poa Andima, Nutt., Yellowstone, August.
Triticum agilipoides, Turck., Yellowstone, August.
Calamagrostis Lapponica, Trin. (?), Yellowstone, August
314
RECONNAISSANCE OF NoFTHWESTERN wyoming.
No.
No.
No.
NO.
No.
No.
No.
No.
No.
No.
No.
f
301.
302.
303.
304.
305.
306.
308.
309.
310.
311.
FILICEs.
Cheilanthes lanuginosa, Nutt., Owl Creek, July.
Cystopteris fragilis, Benth, Yellowstone Falls, August.
Woodsia scopulina, D. C. Eaton, Yellowstone, August.
Woodsia Oregama, D. C. Eaton, Sweetwater, June.
Botrychium lunaroides, L., Yellowstone, August.
Botrychium simplea, Hitchcock, Yellowstone, August.
LYCOPODIACEAE.
. Isoetes Bolanderi, n. sp., Engel, Yellowstone, August.
FUNGI.
Trichobasis leguminosarum, Lk, Wind River, July.
AEcidium Ranuncalacearum, DC., Wind River, July.
Alcidium Psoraleae, n. sp., C. H. Peck, Colorado, June.
AEcidium Parryi, n. sp., C. H. Peck, Stinking water, August.
ENTOMOLOGICAL REPORT.
J. D. PUTNAM.
DEAR SIR : The following list embraces the Coleoptera collected dur-
ing the months of June, July, and August, 1873, on the route from Fort
Bridger to the Yellowstone National Park, via Green River, South Pass,
Camp Brown, Wind River, and Stinking water River; and on the return,
in September, via Snake and Wind Rivers. My opportunities for col-
lecting were quite limited, having responsible meteorological duties to
perform at all times, and being almost constantly on the march. For
these reasons, and also on account of the lack of transportation facilities,
the collections are much more imperfect than they should have been.
All the regions passed through, and especially the Wind River district,
give promise of good yields for future collectors. I am much indebted
to the officers on the survey for various kindnesses, and to Mr. Henry
TJIke, who very kindly determined the Coleoptera, hereafter enum lated,
for me. I also annex a list of words used by the Shoshone Indians to
designate insects.
Respectfully, your obedient servant,
- J. D. PUTNAM.
Capt. W. A. JONES,
United States Corps of Engineers.
LIST OF COLEOPTERA.
Cicindella tranquebarica, Herbst,-vulgaris, Say, Green River basin,
June.
C. duodecimguttata, Dej., Yellowstone basin, August.
Iºlaphrus Californicus, Mann., Green River basin, June.
Nebria hudsonica, Lec., Yellowstone basin, August.
Calosoma lua'atum Say, Wind River basin, June.
Carabus Agassii, Lec., variety of C. taedatus, Fort Bridger, May ; Wind
River and StinkingWater, July.
Lebia guttula, Lec., Wind River basin, July.
Philotecnus migricollis, Lec., Green River basin, June.
Pterostichus protractus, Lec., Fort Bridger, May ; Yellowstone basin,
August.
Pt. Luccotii, Dej., Fort Bridger, May.
Amara lacustris, Lec., Fort Bridger, May.
A. patricia, Dej., Yellowstone basin, August.
Chlamius sericeus, Forster, Green River basin, June.
Harpalus amputatus, Say, Green River basin, June.
B. funistus, Lec., Fort Bridger, May ; Yellowstone basin, August.
H. stupidus, Lec., Fort Bridger, May.
H. furtivus, Lec., Fort Bridger, May.
II. obesulus, Lec., Green River basin, June.
Bembidium nebraskense, Lec., Yellowstone basin, August.
B. lucidum, Lec, Green River basin, June.
316 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
JB. umbratum, Lec., Green River basin, June.
I)ytiscus marginicollis, Lec., Yellowstone basin, August.
Silpha lapponica, Herbst, Fort Bridger, May.
S. ramosa, Say, Wind River basin, June.
Aleochara bimaculata, Grav., Green River basin, June.
Oreophilus villosus, Grav., Yellowstone basin, August.
Philonthus, (undetermined,) Fort Bridger, May.
Saprinus pratensis, Lec., Green River basin, June.
Phalacrus pennicillatus, Say, Green River basin, June ; Wind River,
July.
Nitidula 2iczac, Say, Wind River basin, July.
Dermestes marmoratus, Say, Green River basin, June.
D. caninus, Germ., Green River basin, June.
Aphodius denticulatus, Hald., Green River basin, June.
Troa, alternans, Lec., Fort Bridger, May.
Hoplia laticolis, Lec., Wind River basin, July.
Serica curvata, Lec, Wind River basin, July.
S. frontalis, Lec., Wind River basin, July.
Lachnosterna fusca, Fröhl., Fort Bridger, May.
Polyphylla decemlineata, Say, Owl Creek, July.
Melanophila longipes, Say, Stinking water Valley, July ; Yellowstone
basin, August.
Acmaeodera mixta, Lec., Wind River basin, July ; abundant in the
flowers of the prickly pear, (Opuntia.)
Brachys terminans, Fabr., Wind River basin, July.
Dolopius pauper, Lec., Stinking water Valley, July.
Corymbites tinctus, Lec., black variety, Yellowstone basin, August.
Podabrus, (undetermined,) Stinking water Valley, July.
Collops vittatus, Say, Green River basin, June.
C. cribrosus, Lec., Green River basin, June.
Pristoscellis, near fuscus Lec., Wind River basin, July.
Listrus interruptus, Lec., Wind River basin, June.
Dolichosoma foveicollis, Kirby, Wind River basin, July.
Dasytes breviusculus, Motsch., Green River basin, June.
Eleodes obscura, Say, Wind River basin, July. -
E. hispilabrus, Say, Green River basin, June; Wind River basin, July
E. extricata, Say, Green River basin, June; Wind River basin, June.
July.
B. migrina, Lec., Green River basin, June.
E. pimelioides, Mann., Wind River basin, July.
Blapstinus pratensis, Lec., Green River basin, June.
Coelocnemis dilaticollis, Mann., Yellowstone basin, August.
Corphyra lugubris, Say, Yellowstone basin, August.
O. Lewisii, Horn, Wind River basin, July.
Notoaus serratus, Lec., Wind River basin, July.
N. subtilis, Lec., (?) Green River basin, June.
Anaspis rufa, Say, Wind River basin, July.
JEpicauta punctiollis, Mann., Wind River basin, June.
E. maculata, Say, Wind River basin, July.
E. sericans, Lec., Wind River basin, June, July.
Lytta fulgifera, Lec, variety of Nuttalli, Say, Wind River basin, July.
Cephaloon leptwrides, Newm., variety, Yellowstone basin, August.
[Mr. Ulke says, “Your specimens differ in size and coloration from
the Northern-Atlantic types, but I have an intermediate form from
Oregon.” -
Prionus Californicus, Motsch., Stinking water basin, July.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 317
Oriocephales productus, Lec., Yellowstone basin, August.
Cr. asperatus, Lec., Yellowstone basin, August. - - -
Monohammus scutellatus, Say, Wind River basin, July.
Oa'oplus corallinus, Lec., Yellowstone basin, August. -
|Differs from Mr. Ulke's New Mexico type in having the base of the
elytra blackish.] - -
Pachyta liturata, Kirby, Yellowstone basin, August. -
Acmaeops pratensis, Laich.,-strigilata, Fabr., Wind River basin, July.
AC. Subpilosa, Lec., Wind River basin, June. - ,
Galeruca americana, Fabr., Green River basin, June.
Luperus longulus, Lec., Wind River basin, June, July.
Haltica (Graptodera,) imarata, Lec., Green River basin, June.
Disonycha alternata, Ill., Wind River basin, July.
Saſcinus saucia, Lec., Wind River basin, July.
A dowus vitis, Linn., Wind River basin, July.
Trirhabda alternata, Say, var., Yellowstone basin, August.
Monowia guttulata, Lec., Green River basin, June.
Hippodamia Lecontei, Muls., Green River basin, June.
H. Quinquesigmata, Muls., Wind River basin, July.
H. parenthesis, Say, Green River basin, June.
Coccinella picta, Rand., Yellowstone basin, August.
C. trifasciata, Linn., Wind River basin, July; Yellowstone basin, August.
C. transverso-guttata, Fald., Yellowstone basin, August.
J C. movemnotata, Herbst., Green River basin, June; Wind River basin,
UlD 6.
Sphemophorus Ulkei, Horn., Green River basin, June.
Lépyrus colon, Linn., Wind River basin, July.
There were also collected five or six undescribed species of Curcu-
lionidae, belonging to the genera Listroderes, Lichemophagus (?), and
JErirhinus.
INDIAN NAMES FOR INSECTS.
The following Words, used by the Shoshone or Snake Indians to desig-
nate insects, were obtained September 14, 1873, at Camp Brown, Wyom-
ing Territory, from Moonharvy, Charlie, and Bob, three Shoshone
Indians belonging to Washakie's band :
Large, wingless cricket, (Anabrus simplex, Hald.,) Mesch.
Black cricket, (Gryllus , sp. 2), Mesch ; Mes-oo-wan-ich.
Spider-like cricket, (Stenopelmatus 2) Nen-i-gūipo.
Pupa of a large grasshopper, (CEdipoda,) At-tung.
Large grasshopper, (CEdipoda,) A-dûn-ich.
Hateful grasshopper, (Calaptenus spretus, Uhler,) Ud-Sée-guee.
Tenebrionidae, (Ctelaenemus dilaticollis, Mann,) Bee-sóu-guah.
Cerambycidae, Priomus Californicus, Motsch.,) Gön-i-pée-ah.
Green buprestid, E-wee-et.
Horse-fly, (Tabanus,) Bée-meet.
Common fly, (Musca,) (An-6-Vou,) An-è-ou.
Tremea, (sp.?) An-e-góot-tsee.
Cicada, (sp.?) Kii-ah.
Ant lion (Myrmelion,) Es-poſi-see.
Day-fly, (Ephémera,) Moë-pô.
Various diurnal butterflies and moths, A-e-pril.
Colias philodice, (yellow,) Oabit A-e-pril.
Moths, from Washakie's Needles, (Arctia,) Un-dwust.
Large, brown caterpillar, (larva of some Sphingidae,) Beer-Waub.
318 _RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
Colors.
White, Tós-it-eh.
Black, Ton-Ór-wit.
Brownish-black, Toà-gon-dań-bit.
Brown, Toà-gon-umph.
Red, En-ga-bit.
Yellow, [Oabit, Orbt.
Green, Å went.
Blue, (bright,) Tsoi-wi-it.
Blue, (grayish,) Ab-mü-it.
APPENDIX.
A PP E N DIX.
CORRESPONDENCE RELATIVE TO PRINTING ADDITIONAL
CEIAPTERS OF THE GEOLOGICAL REPORT.
OFFICE OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERs,
Washington, D. C., January 9, 1875.
SIR. : Since the printing of the congressional document containing
the report of Capt. W. A. Jones upon his reconnaissance in Northwestern
Wyoming in 1873, Prof. Theo. B. Comstock, the geologist of the
expedition, has prepared eight additional chapters to his geological
report.
As these chapters could not be prepared in time to accompany Cap-
tain Jones's report, which was transmitted to Congress by the Secretary
of War, I would respectfully recommend that one thousand copies of
the additional matter be printed by the Public Printer, upon the usual
War Department requisition.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,
A. A. HUMPHREYS,
Brig. Gen., and Chief of Engineers.
Hon. WM. W. BELKNAP,
Secretary of War.
Approved, by order of the Secretary of War.
H. T. CROSBY,
Chief Clerk.
WAR DEPARTMENT, January 13, 1875.
WASHINGTON, D. C. January 4, 1875.
SIR : I have the honor to transmit here with a letter of Prof. Theo. B.
Comstock, together with the additional manuscript which completes
his report to me as geologist of the reconnaissance of Northwestern Wy-
OIIll Il Q.
owing to the illness of Professor Comstock, he was unable to com-
plete this manuscript in time for it to be presented with the main
report. This latter has gone to press; and as the additional matter is
of considerable scientific interest, I would resºrt fºlly suggest that it
be printed, if possible, in such form that it may be distributed with the
main report. w
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,
W. A. JONES,
Captain of Engineers.
The CHIEF OF ENGINEERs,
United States Army.
21
EI. Ex. 285
322 RECONNAISSANCE OF NorthwestERN Wyoming.
CLEVELAND, OHIO,
December 31, 1874.
SIR: The last installment of my report on the geology, &c., of the
district surveyed under your direction in 1873, is here with transmitted.
The construction and arrangement of the several parts is substantially as
proposed to you upon our return from the field, more than thirteen months
since. The departures from that plan, except in some minor points,
have been almost wholly due to the constant state of uncertainty regard-
ing the date of publication. The first eight chapters Were sent you in
six installments, and as no copy could be retained, under the circum-
stances, some unnecessary repetitions could scarcely be avoided. The
succeeding five chapters (on hot springs and geysers) were completed
too late for publication in the first edition of this document, (for the use
of Congress,) and the remainder of the report was put in manuscript
while the former portion was in press. This brief statement will explain
to you the necessity for the omission of the intended simple lists of min-
erals, mammals, and birds, and the lack of the index referred to in the
introductory chapter and elsewhere.
The method which has been adopted, of employing head-lines in the
text, lessens the need of an index, however, and the subjects are gener-
ally so classified as to make reference easy to any part of the work with-
out such a guide. -
I have endeavored, in all cases, to give due creditin the body of the work
to those who have rendered aid in the Collection or elaboration of the
material upon which this report is founded, but I cannot let this final
opportunity pass without grateful mention of some who have a special
claim upon my remembrance. The members of the expedition, without,
I believe, one exception, were always ready to assist when called upon,
and the officers at Fort Bridger, Camp Stambaugh, and Camp Brown
gave me information of value, as well as bestowing kind attentions with-
out stint. Dr. Carter, of Fort Bridger, has laid me under obligations
for his very carefully written notes on the Shoshone dialect. Dr. Heis-
man, of our party, has furnished freely of his notes, besides giving ma-
terial aid while on the trip. Mr. Charles T. Creary acted as my assist-
ant a portion of the time, and deserves credit for his zeal and endurance
of many hardships. I cannot but believe that my life was once saved
only by his firmness and presence of mind. Mr. Geo. Hitt, my tent-mate,
has my thanks for his consideration and warm-heartedness at all times,
which added not a little to the amount that I was able to accomplish
during the day. * -
The Engineer Department at Washington has freely granted more
than I have asked, and I would not forget that the publication of this
report, in its present form, is due to the charitable opinion of its chief.
Lastly, to your own unflagging interest and hearty support, both upon
the trip and since our return, is to be attributed the largest portion of
the power to make the report even what it is, and as for myself, I can
only regret that the result sent here with is not more worthy of your un-
selfish generosity and continual encouragement of my efforts.
With esteem, I am sir, your obedient servant,
THEO. B. COMSTOCK,
Geologist N. W. Wyoming Eaſpedition, 1873.
Capt. W. A. JONES,
Corps of Engineers, Commander of Elapédition.
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 323
MILITARY WAGON-ROAD IN WYOMING AND MONTANA
TERRITORIES.*
Letter from the Secretary of War, relative to the bill (H. R. 2854) for the
location and construction of a military wagon-road from Green River
City, Wyo., to the Yellowstone National Park, and to Fort Ellis, Mont.,
December 15, 1874. Referred to the Committee on Military Affairs and
ordered to be printed.
WAR DEPARTMENT, December 10, 1874.
The Secretary of War has the honor to return to the House of Rep-
resentatives House bill 2854, “For the location and construction of a
military wagon-road from Green River City, Wyoming Territory, to the
Yellowstone National Park, and to Fort Ellis, Montana Territory,” and
to transmit, for the information of the Committee on Military Affairs, as
requested by the chairman of said committee, under date of June 9,
1874, letter of the Chief of Engineers of the Army, dated June 16,
1874, and copy of report of Capt. W. A. Jones, Corps of Engineers,
which fully sets forth the advantages to be derived from the construc-
tion of said road.
Under date of November 28, Lieutenant-General Sheridan states:
“In forwarding the report of Capt. William A. Jones, Engineer Corps,
of his reconnaissance of the route referred to by the within papers from
Green River City, Wyoming Territory, or its vicinity, to Fort Ellis, Mon-
tana Territory, via the Yellowstone Park, under date of May 10, 1874,
I did not express myself as in favor of the projected road. Since that
date I have had opportunity to make a personal examination of the
road through to Camp Brown, Wyoming Territory, which causes me to
reconsider my former action; and I now return these papers with my
approval, and recommend that the road, as proposed by the within
House bill, introduced by the Hon. W. R. Steele, of Wyoming Territory,
be favorably considered by the honorable Secretary of War.”
WM. W. BELKNAP,
Secretary of War.
-*==-
OFFICE OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERs,
Washington, D. C., June 16, 1874.
SIR: In compliance with reference to this Office of bill No. 2854,
introduced into the House of Representatives on the 6th instant by the
Hon. Mr. Steele, for the location and construction of a military wagon-
road from Green River City, Wyo., to the Yellowstone National Park
and Fort Ellis, Mont., I have the honor to transmit here with a copy of a
letter from Capt. W. A. Jones, of the Corps of Engineers, in which the
advantages which are expected to accrue from the construction of said
road are fully set forth ; and also beg leave to refer to my letter of the
13th instant, forwarding to you a copy of a report by Captain Jones of
a reconnaissance of Northwestern Wyoming, made in 1873.
The letter from the Committee on Military Affairs inclosing the bill is
returned here with.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,
A. A. HUMPHREYS,
Brig. Gen. and Chief of Engineers.
Hon. WM. W. BELKNAP,
Secretary of War.
*House of Representatives Ex. Doc. No. 22, 43d Congress, 2d session.
324 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
WASHINGTON, D.C., June 12, 1874.
SIR : I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of your letter of
this date upon the subject of a proposed military Wagon-road in Wy-
Omlng.
The road proposed by this bill is over the line discovered by me last
year while making the reconnaissance of Northwestern Wyoming. I
consider it a perfectly practicable project, which can be attained at a
reasonable expense.
The road will leave the Union Pacific Railroad near Green River City,
Wyo., at such a point (probably Point of Rocks) as will give the shortest
distance from the railroad to the mouth of Wind River Valley. This
valley is followed up to its head, where there is a pass over which the
grades are perfectly easy and practicable. It is probable that this pass
will be practicable for winter travel, as it lies in such position that the
prevalent winds are intercepted by neighboring mountain-ranges, and
cannot reach it with sufficient force to drive the Snow into drifts that
will be serious obstructions. It is the testimony of miners, freighters,
and others in the Territories, that winter roads can easily be maintained
in the mountains, provided the snow does not drift badly. Whether
this should prove true or not, the proposed road would remain open as
long as the present route via Corinne, and longer than the Missouri River
TOllte.
From this pass the road will proceed northerly to Yellowstone
Lake, following down its eastern shore, and thence down the Yellow-
stone River, passing the Great Falls and along the crest of the Grand
Cañon, and by the Mammoth Hot Springs on Gardiner's River to Fort
Ellis, Bozeman City, and the Crow Indian agency. From here there are
good roads to the principal cities and mining towns of Montana. The
route traverses the Wind River Valley, (avoiding the present mountain-
road between Camp Stambaugh and Camp Brown,) where the soil is
quite well adapted to agriculture and grazing, as has been proved by
experience, and the climate is exceptionally mild ; the Teton Basin, a
thoroughly well-watered and well-timbered area of country, where the
soil is quite rich, and rain falls with sufficient equability to render irriga-
tion unnecessary probably; the Yellowstone National Park, passing all of
its wonderful phenomena except the geyser basins, which can be reached
by a short side-road, and a stretch of country in Yellowstone Valley,
north of the park, which is now cultivated with success.
Gold, (in veins and diggings,) coal, coal-oil, iron, and gypsum occur in
the Wind River country, fine coal in the Teton Basin, and gold, (in veins
and diggings,) lead, and silver in the Yellowstone region.
It will thus be seen that this road will open up and develop a country
of considerable and varied resources.
It will also furnish the shortest and a most agreeable route to the
Yellowstone National Park.
The present approaches to Montana from the East are only two, viz:
(1.) The Missouri River route, which involves wagon transportation from
Eort Benton, or from Carroll, over a desolate country. This latter
affords about the same wagon-road distance to Fort Ellis as the One
from Fort Benton, and, should it prove available, will supersede it. (2.)
The land-route via the Union and Central Pacific Railroads to Corinne,
Utah, and thence to Montana by wagons.
The road proposed by the bill is an improvement upon this, as will
be seen from the following tables, and will thus bring the two main
routes into a closer competition, giving the mining and agricultural in-
terests of Montana an improved outlet and better competing lines of
RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING. 325
land and water travel, and affording all of the attendant advantages in
the transaction of business, settlement of new country, and the ship-
ment of Army and Indian supplies. It is fraught with lasting benefit to
the people of Montana and Northern Idaho, and will hasten the utiliza-
tion of the Yellowstone National Park as a place of summer resort.
Table8.
Miles
ſ By rail:
Omaha to Corinne, Union Pacific Railroad -----------------------...--- 1,055
I. Omaha to Point of Rocks, Union Pacific Railroad.--------------------- 805
| Distance saved by rail-------------------------------------------. 250
ſ” Omaha to Yellowstone Lake, present route:
Omaha to Corinne --------------------------------------------------- 1,055
Corinne to Fort Ellis------------------------------------------------- 403
Fort Ellis to Yellowstone Lake --------------------------------------. 118
Omaha to Yellowstone Lake.... ... * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * - - - 1, 576
Proposed route: g Miles.
Omaha to Point of Rocks------------------------------------- 805
Point of Rocks to Yellowstone Lake. -------------------------- 289
Omaha to Yellowstone Lake-------------------------------------- 1,094
Distance Saved to Yellowstone Lake------...---------------------- 482
II ! Omaha to Bozeman, Montana, present route:
Omaha to Corinne---------------------------------------------------- 1,055
º Fort Ellis
Corinne to } Bozeman : * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * tº º ſº, º ºs º ºn tº ºn m e º ºr sº me tº sº e º nº dº º º 403
Fort Ellis
Omaha to } Bozeman : * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 1,458
Proposed route: Miles.
Omaha to Point of Rocks------------------------------------- 805
º Fort Ellis
Point of Rocks to } Bozeman ; * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * ºn 437
Omaha to Bozeman ---------------------------------------------- 1, 242
º § Fort Ellis
Distance saved to Q Bozeman : * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 216
º --
ſ * Passenger rates, (railroad:)
Omaha to Corinne, Utah --------------------------------------------- $79 25
III. & Omaha to Point of Rocks, Wyoming ---------------------------------- 57 25
Amount saved per man----------------------------------------- 22 00
* Freight rates, ( railroad:)
Omaha to Corinne, (third-class) per ton------------------------------- $42 20
IV. & Omaha to Point of Rocks, (third-class) per ton ------------------------ 32 20
Amount saved per ton------------------------------------------ 10 00
To sum up : The proposed wagon-road saves 250 miles of railroad;
482 miles of distance to the Yellowstone National Park; and 216 miles
to Fort Ellis, Bozeman, and the principal cities of Montana, which is
one of the most productive mining regions of the West ; is the shortest
and most practicable road to the Yellowstone National Park and Mon-
tana; is heavily timbered through the belt of country where the heavy
* As the distance (wagon-road) is about the same in the two cases, the saving effected can very fairly
be represented by the saving over 250 miles of railroad.
326 RECONNAISSANCE OF NORTHWESTERN WYOMING.
snows fall, indicating a probable winter route, while, at present, there
is none; opens up a large tract (2,000,000 acres) of low-lying timber-
land—a very important feature; will open to settlement the Wind River
Valley, the Teton Basin, and the valley of the Upper Yellowstone; will
hasten the attainment of the objects for which the Yellowstone Park
was created by law; and will afford better competing lines of travel to
the mining and other industries of Montana.
I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant,
W. A. JONES,
Captain of Engineers.
The CHIEF OF ENGINEERS,
United States Army, Washington, D. C.
Forty-third Congress, First Session, H. R. 2854. In the House of Representatives,
April 6, 1874. Read twice, referred to the Committee on Military Affairs, and ordered
to be printed.
Mr. Steele, on leave, introduced the following bill:
A BILL for the location and construction of a military wagon-road from Green River City, Wyoming
Territory, to the Yellowstone National Park, and to Fort Ellis, Montana Territory.
Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United States of America in
Congress assembled, That there shall be located and constructed, under the direction of
the Secretary of War, a military wagon-road from Green River City, in the Territory of
Wyoming, or from such other point in said Territory as may be selected, to the Yellow-
stone National Park, and to Fort Ellis, in the Territory of Montana. And the Secre-
tary of War is hereby authorized to expend, for the prosecution of said work, any sum
of money necessary therefor, not exceeding the sum of sixty thousand dollars; which
said sum of money, or so much thereof as may be necessary, is hereby appropriated for
that purpose out of any money in the Treasury not otherwise appropriated.
O
IND EX.
ADJUTANT-GENERAL of the Army referring
report, 3.
- - * *-* - refers General Sheridan's letter,
4.
Acting assistant quartermaster of expedi-
tion, 5
— commissary ——, 5.
Action, geological, of plant and animal life,
170
Alabaster deposits, 153.
Alkali, 182.
— analysis of, 182, 296.
— bogs or holes, 182.
— deposits, origin of, f83.
Altitudes, table of, 65.
Amethyst, Mount, trip to, 94.
Animal life, protective effects, 175.
— — cumulative —, 176.
— — destructive —, 177.
Aqueous action, 16ſ.
Area, relative, of plateaus and mountains, 99.
Archaeology, 259.
Arsenic, existence in springs suspected, 61,
62, 306.
BAsiN, Wind, Big Horn, 51.
— — — — mountains of, 51.
— — — — rivers of, 52.
— — — — soil of, 52.
— — — — roads of, 52, 53.
— — River, explanation of winds, 62, 168.
— — — temperature, 62.
— — — humidity, 62.
— — — radiation, 62.
— — — I aim, 63.
— — — winds, 63.
— Green River, 47.
— — — mountains of, 47.
— — — rivers of, 48.
— — — soil of, 48.
— — — roads of, 49.
— — — explanation of wind phenomena, 61,
62, 167.
— — — temperature of, 61.
— — — humidity, 61.
— — — radiation, 61.
— — — rain, 61.
— — — winds, 61.
— North Platte, 49.
— — — mountains of, 49.
— — — rivers of, 50.
— — — soil of, 50.
— — — roads of 50.
– Yellowstone-Teton, 53.
— — — mountains of, 53.
— — — rivers of, 53.
— — — soil of, 53.
— — — roads of, 54.
— — — temperature, 63.
— — — humidity, 63.
H. Ex. 285
22
Basin, Yellowstone-Teton, radiation, 63.
— — — rain, 63.
— — — winds, 64.
— Big Horn, temperature, 63.
— — — humidity, 63.
— — — radiation, 63.
— — — rain, 63.
— — — winds, 63.
— Teton, 42.
Barometers, aneroid, unreliable, 59.
— — comparison of, 59.
– mercurial, cause of leakage, 60.
— — attached thermometers of, 60.
Barometric curves, horary chart, opposite
60.
Base line, secondary, measured, 8.
Big Horn Mountains, 13, 16,99.
—— expedition, 16.
— Muddy River, camp on, 7.
— — — fording of 7.
— Sandy River, description of first crossing,
7.
* - - - amº. second —, 8.
— Popo Agie River, 10.
Bill, for location and construction of wagon-
road to Yellowstone Park and Montana,
326.
Black Hills, description of, 49.
Box chronouneters, failure of, 10.
Bridge, across Yellowstone River, 33.
— — Black's Fork, broke, 6.
Bridger Lake, 40.
Brig. Gen. Ord, letter forwarding report, 3.
Buffalo, 16.
CACHE, of provisions and material, 23.
Camp Brown, description of, 10.
—Stambaugh, – —, 9.
Capt. W. A. Jones's, letter transmitting re-
port, 2.
Cavalry, 2d, Co., I, detailed as escort, 5.
Carboniferous system, l 13.
— limestone, 114.
— — lithological characters, 114.
— — organic contexts, I 14.
Chalcedony in tears, 182.
Chief of Engineers, letter transmitting report
to Secretary of War, 1.
— — — letter relating to bill for construction
of wagon-road to Yellowstone Park and
Montana, 323.
Chimney Rock, ascent of 90.
Classification of springs in Yellowstone Ba-
sin, 30.5–6.
Conglomerate, volcanic, arranged under wa-
ter, 185.
Cold, extreme, 35.
Comstock, Prof. Theo. B., letter transmitting
final chapters of geological report, 322.
328
INDEX,
Climbing impeded by snow, 87.
Climate in Wind River and Teton Basins,
comparison of, 43.
Cloud Peak, 51.
Coal of lignite group, age of, 132, 133.
— 146.
— and oil deposits, 153.
Continental Divide, chart of, opposite, 165.
— — line of, 165.
— — low points in, 166.
— — j ( .
Crater eruptions, 188.
— overflows, material of, 189.
Craters, few remains of, lºs.
Condensation and evaporation, results of,
1S2.
Cretaceous and Tertiary systems, 119.
— — line between, 1 19.
— strata, 119.
— — in Wind River Mountains, 120.
— — — Owl Creek —, 120.
— — — Sierra Shoshone —, 120.
— — lithological characters, 120.
— — organic contents, 121.
* Crystal beach, 22.
Curves, horary barometric, chart of, oppo-
site, 60.
DEER, mule—killed, 20.
Devonian and Carboniferous ages, dry land,
areas of, 1 16.
— system, absence of 112.
Distances, comparative table of 56, 57.
— table of 11.
Divide, Continental, 37, 165, 166.
— between Madison and Yellowstone Rivers,
37.
Drift deposits, 135, 136.
— — of Wind River Valley, 136.
— — two epochs of, 139.
— — freezing and thawing eras, 140.
ELK Mountain, 50.
Ejections, fissure, classification of, 186.
Elevation of second system of ridges in
Rocky Mountain chain, 156.
Eocene beds of Green River Basin, thickness
of, 158.
— strata, 122.
— — Green River group, 123.
•mº ºmºmº ºmºmºmº sº- --> outlines of lake basin, 123.
*-* * * *-* -º-º: lithological characters, 123.
a- *m' -ºº -m-, *-* organic contents, 124.
Eocene strata, Bridger group, 125.
— — — — outline of lake basin, 127.
— — — — organic contents, 128.
Erosion and denudation, ancient, 158
— — — extensive in Tertiary deposits 158,
I6().
— recent, 160.
FALLs of the Yellowstone, upper, 24.
— — — — lower, 25.
— — — — lithological description, 26, 163
— — — — explanation of phenomenon, 26
— — — — chart, opposite, 163.
— on East Fork of Gardiner’s River, 29.
Fallen timber, how to avoid, 37.
— —, 92.
Field analysis of gases, 304.
— — outfit for, 305.
— mice and moles, 22.
Fissure eruptions, 184.
— action, era of, 157.
Fissures, eruptive, position of, 186.
Floods, evidences of in volcanic district, 258.
Fort Bridger, description of 144.
Freight to Montana, table of quantities, 57.
Funds, amount allotted for expedition, 6.
GAME tracks, numerous, about hot springs,
Garnets in soil, 9.
Garden truck can be raised, 152.
General Sherman, forwards report, 3.
— — — General Sheridan's letter, 4.
Geology, dynamic, 153.
— Chemical, 178.
Geography, physical, 45, 95.
— — general surface features, 95.
Geyser Basin, trip to, 94.
Geysers in upper basin, 34, 195.
— — lower, 34, 303. !
— structure of 34.
— 241–59.
— distribution of, 242.
— Madison River group, 242.
— Lower Fire Hole Group, 243–9.
— Upper Fire Hole Group, 249–54.
— and hot springs, difference between, 256.
— — — — explanation of phenomena, 255.
Geyserite pebbles, 258.
Geyserites, analysis of, 304.
Gilbert's Pass, elevation of, 48.
— Beach, 47, 88.
Glacial and Champlain epochs, 135.
— action in Owl Creek mountain, 138.
— — before close of Miocene, 138.
— — erosive effects of, 139.
— — 90.
— — local nature of, 159.
Glaciers, general course of over igneous dis-
trict, 159,
— Owl Creek, 160.
Gold, quartz found, 12.
— in quartz veins, 105.
— mines, Sweetwater, 147, 152.
— — Cariso, young America and Irishman,
7
— — Miner's delight, Buckeye, Mary Allen,
J49.
Granite bowlders, source discovered, 28.
— — origin of, 159
Grass, conversion of, into force, 35.
Grasshoppers, 49.
Grizzly Buttes, 87.
Group, m tamorphic, south of Two Ocean
Pass, 105.
Grooves and striae, absence of, 159.
Gypsum and alabaster deposits, 153.
HAM's Fork, description of passage of 7.
Headwaters of Yellowstone and Snake
Rivers, 15.
Heat supply, origin and present source, 259.
Hell Roaring Creek, trip to, 94.
High water in Black's Fork, 3.
Horses, stolen, recovered, 8.
INDEX.
329
Horse-thieves, steal two horses from escort,
7
Hostile Indians, informed of presence of, 9.
— — line of approach to Sweetwater settle-
ments, 9. -
Huckleberry, mountain, 19.
Human period 142.
INDIANS, mode of travel, 9.
— Shoshone, agency of 11.
— — manners and customs of, 271. *
-— — traditions of, 272.
— — emotional expression of, 274.
— — government, social, customs, &c., 275,
— — songs and singing of, 277.
— — medicine, ornament, &c., of, 278.
— in search of a ford, 12.
— power of abstaining from food.
— instinct of 35.
— scouts enlisted, I 1.
— — trouble with, 37, 40.
— trails, enumeration of, 54.
Insect pests, 27.
Insects, Indian names for, 209.
Instruments, astronomical, used, 82.
JACKSON'S Hole, 42, 53.
— Lake, 53.
Jones, Capt. W. A., letter requesting publi-
cation of additional chapters of geological
report, 321. -
* * *-* *gº ºmº to Chief of Engineers relating
to proposed wagon-road to Yellowstone
Park and Montana.
Jurassic system, 118.
— — in Wind River Mountains, 1 18.
— — lithological characters, 118.
— — organic contents, 119.
LARAMIE Peak, 49.
Latitude, example of 83.
Latitudes and longitudes, table of, 84.
Lieut. Gen. Sheridan, fowards report, 3.
— — — disapproves project for wagon-road
to Montana, 4.
— — — approves — — — — — — (See ap-
pendix.) *
Little Popo Agie, valley of, 89.
MAGNETIC declimations, table of, S4.
Marl, analysis of, 182.
Marches, mode of making, 16.
Medicine Bow Mountains, 50.
Meteorology, 58.
— instruments used, 58.
Measurements, barometric, satisfactory chat-
acter of, 60.
Metamorphic effects of eruptive action, 157.
Metamorphics, age of, 105.
Minerals, 3.
Miners' Delight, 9.
Mineral and thermal waters, report on, 293.
— — — — field system, 293,
Miocene beds of Wind River Valley, thick-
mess of, 158.
Monuments, graves, &c., 266,267.
Mount Hodges, elevation of, 47.
– Tohkwana, – — 48.
— Washburne, 33, 53.
— Sheridan, 36, 37, 53, 95.
Mountains, Sierra Shoshone, obscured, 156.
— — — probable axis of, 157.
— — — effects of eruptive action, 157.
— — — description of eruptive deposits, 157.
— — — fossil forests in lava, 157.
— Owl Creek, 157.
Mountains, elevation of, 154.
—Wahsatch, age of, 154.
— Uintah, – — 154.
— eastern ranges, 154.
Mountain near Togwotee Pass, ascent of, 42.
Mud volcanoes, 302.
Mule lost on trail, 33, 36.
— drowned, 7, 8.
NIAGARA limestone, 110.
— — discovery in Wind River Mountains,
11.
— — on east fork of Yellowstone River, 111.
— — in Sierra Shoshone Mountains, 111.
— — lithological characters, 112.
— — organic contents, 112.
Noyes, Capt. Henry E., credit due, 44.
OBSERVATIONS, astronomical, manner of
taking, 82.
Odometer cart, 6.
— — abandoned, 35.
Oil-spring, 182.
Orange Rock Springs, 27, 299.
— — — large steam jets of 299.
Order, Brig. Gen. Ord, directing reconnais-
Saú Ce, O.
Overflow, remarkable volcanic, 37, 51.
— — — thickness of 51.
Owl Creek Mountains, 13, 99, 151, 157.
Ozone in atmosphere, 178, 294.
— effect of, in rock weathering, 178.
PACK-train, 11.
— sent to Fort Ellis for supplies, 22.
Paleozoic strata, general remarks on, l 15.
— rocks, depths of seams, 116.
Park, Yellowstone National, 53, 58.
Pass through Rocky Mountains, 46.
— Togwotee, 55.
Passes discovered in Sierra Shoshone Mount-
aims, 52, 55.
— over Wind River Mountains, 47.
Pelican Creek, trip to, 92.
Phlox Mountain, ascent of, 13.
— — description of country seen from, 13.
Plains, Laramie, 50.
Plant-life, conservative action of, 171.
— — formature — — 173.
— — destructive — — J75.
Plateau, Green River, 99.
— — — area of, 100.
— — — elevation of, 100.
– Wind River, 100.
— Shoshone, 100.
— Park, 100.
Pliocene deposits, locality of 129.
— — in Yellowstone Lake Basin, 130.
— — — South Pass, 158.
Point, lowest, reached, 99.
Porcupine killed, 93.
Post-tertiary, 134.
— — general remarks on, 143.
Potsdam sandstone, 106.
330
INDEX.
Potsdam sandstone, first discovery of, I06.
— — in Wind River Mountains, 107.
— — — Sierra Shoshone Mountains, 107.
— — peculiar weathering of, iOS.
Precipitation, IS3.
Preparations for the march, 6.
Prospectors met with, 19.
Progress checked by fallen timber, 42.
RAFT on Yellowstone River, 23.
Rates of freight to Montana, 56, 57.
— tables of freight and passenger, 57.
Rain, equable precipitation of, 58.
Radiation, record of, 80.
Recommendation for an appropriation to
build wagon-road to Montana, 3.
Record, meteorological, 67.
Red Cañon, trip to
— — land in, cultivated, S9.
Report, astronomical, S2.
— botanical, 308.
— — list of plants, 308.
— entomological, 315.
— — list of insects, 315.
— geological, S5.
— — general explanation and plan of 85.
— on mineral and thermal waters, 293.
River, Green, 49, 101.
— — camp on, 7.
— Little Sandy, camp on, S.
— Big Sandy, 7.
— Little Popo Agie, 9.
— Big — —, 9.
— Sweetwater, description of valley, 9,
– Wind, camp on, 12, 101.
— — fording of, 12.
— Bear, 101.
— Ishawooa, 17.
— Stinking-water, 17, 102.
— — cause for name, 17.
— — Sulphur Springs, on 17.
— — North Fork, canon of 18.
— Yellowstone, 23, 53.
— East Fork of Yellowstone, lithological ob-
servations, 28.
— Upper Yellowstone and valley, 39.
— Medicine Bow, 50.
– Laramie, 50.
— North Platte, 50.
— Wind, Big Horn, 52, 103.
— Snake, 54.
— systems, 101.
Rocks, metamorphic, 103.
— — of Wind River Mountains, 104.
— granite, where exposed, 104.
— — and metamorphic change in, 104.
— eruptive development of, 155.
— weathering of I78.
— — — influence of climate, 179.
— chemical changes and products, 180.
— solvent action of water, 180.
Rocky Mountains, eastern approach to, 96.
— Mountain system, crest of, 97.
— — — ridges of, 96.
— — — — — eievation not contemporan-
eous, 97.
— — region, climate during Eocene, 133.
— — — fauna, –- —, 134
— — — flora, – —, 134.
Rocky Mountain region, continental eleva-
tion, 134.
Route from Fort Bridger to Camp Stam-
baugh, 145.
— — Camp Stambaugh to Wind River, 149.
— — Yellowstone Park to Camp Brown, 157.
— — Yellowstone to Montana, 55.
Routes, present, to Montana, 55.
SAILOR MOUNTAIN, ascent of 20.
Sand Hills, 168.
Secretary of War, letter returning to House
of Representatives bill for construction of
wagon-road tº Yellowstone Park and Mon-
tana, with favorable indorsement of him-
self and General Sheridan, 323.
Scouts, Indian, 1.
Shore, Yellowstone Lake, 38.
Shoshone dialect, vocabulary of, 281–286.
— — glammar of 287.
— — compounding of words, 287.
— — formation of numerals, 287.
— — table of numerals, 288.
— — inflection, 288.
— — examples of sentences, 289–29].
Sierra Shoshone Mountains, 98.
— — original range obliterated, 98.
— — — eastern slopes of, 15.
Silicified wood, origin of, in volcanic district,
258.
Snake River drainage, 42.
Suow, perpetual, 48.
— storm in June.
Soil, fertility of, 153,
Songs and singing of Shoshone Indians,
277–278.
South Pass, 47.
Spear and arrow-heads, 261–264.
Springs of Yellowstone Basin, medicinal
value of 306
— — — — classification of, 305-306.
Springs, sulphureted lime, near Camp Brown,
10, 294, 199, 200.
* mºsº sºm. *-mºr amº- amms effects of bathing in, 294.
*= * * *m' mºmmºm a mºm. table of temperatures, 295.
— carbureted oil, 11, 295.
— on Stinking-water River, 295.
— — — — at source, temperature of, 296,
– sulphuric-acid gas, 21, 296.
— on Pelican Creek, 189, 302.
— — — — analysis of, 298.
— deposit used as paint by Indians, 298.
— near Steamy Point, analysis of 298, 300.
— — Yellowstone Falls, 298, 307.
— Orange Rock, 299, 306.
— Great Hot, on Gardiner's River, 29, 30,
300, 301, 200–216.
— near mud volcanoes, 302, 304.
— in Lower Geyser Basin, 223–229, 302.
— on shore of Yellowstone Lake, 233-236,
304.
— Steamboat, trip to, 91.
— Spouting silica, 25.
— Cold, table of temperatures.
Stone circles, triangles, &c., 264-266.
Stratigraphy, 102.
— recapitulation, 144.
Stratigraphic chart, opposite 103.
Streams greatly swollen, 293.
INDEX.
331
Streams swollen by freshets, 7.
Structure, geological, between Upper and
Lower Geyser Basins, 229. &
Subterraneous waters, 181.
Supplies, short of, 20.
Subcarboniferous limestone,
characters, 1 13.
— — — organic contents, 113, 114.
Survey, description of field embraced by, 96.
Sweetwater Mountains, 99.
— River 9.
lithological
TERRACE epoch, general observations, 141.
Tertiary deposits, 121.
— — in Wind-River Valley, age of, 128.
— — — Sierra Shoshone Mountains, 158.
Teton Mountains, 99.
— the Grand, 43.
Thermal springs, 189.
— — Turbid Lake group, 190.
active geysers among, 191.
— — — — — periodicity of action, 191.
— — Steamboat group, 192.
— — — — deposits of, 192.
— — Green Spring group, 194.
mineral products of 194.
— — Sulphur (!) Hill group, 194–195.
— — Yellowstone-River group, 196.
— — Forest group, 197.
— — — — section of spring deposits, 197.
— — Wayside (Orange Rock) group, 198.
— — Mammoth Hot, on Gardiner’s River,
200–216.
sºma ºs- sº- * *-* = *
*-* * m_m is ºmºmºs º-re
*-* *-* ºm *-* -º
bathing pools, 201.
products of deposition,
203.
* *= *m' ºn-º º smº- * fucoidal markings 204.
sm *-* * *-* *m, ºs- -sºme colloid growth, 207.
asses m = mºm, "mºre mºm me ass= extinct geyser chim-
meys, 209
* - sºm- * *-* * *-*. fissures and mounds
21].
* * * * *-* * * evidences of age of, 211.
a- - -ma ººm-º -ºs--- * * description of cave, 212–
214.
— — Warm-Spring Creek group, 215.
— — Boiling-Spring group, 217-220.
geysers of, 219.
specimens obtained, 219.
— — Brimstone group, 220.
— — Madison River group, 221.
section of igneous rocks, 222.
— — Lower Geyser Basin, 223–226.
— — Fire-Hole River group, 226–229.
list of specimens from, 228.
— — Upper Geyser Basin, 231—233.
— — southwest arm of Yellowstone Lake,
23.3—236.
* ºmºmº sºm. *mº -º-
sºme = *-* *= =
•==< *= a- - - -
Section of rocks, 234.
— — Mt. Sheridan group, 239–240.
Time, mean solar, 83.
Timber land, large body of 58.
— line of Uintah Mountains, 48.
Togwotee Pass, 55.
Trachyte dikes, 162.
Trail, dangerous.
— lost, 23, 34.
— manner of making, 41.
Trails, Indian, enumeration of, 54.
Train commanded by Lieut. Young, 6.
— used up, 35.
Transportation, 6.
Triassic system, 1 18.
— — in Wind River Mountains, 118.
— — lithological characters, 118.
— — organic contents, 119.
Triangulation, 6.
Trees, fossil, in volcanic rock, 17.
— — containing crystals of amethyst, 33.
Trout, parasitic worms in, 22.
Twin Peaks, 47.
UPHEAVAL, jurassic heat, effects of, 154.
– Cretaceous, – — — 154.
– Tertiary remarkable volcanic ejections,
— — last stages of volcanic action about
Yellowstone Lake, 154.
Uintah Mountains, description of, 47, 98,
145.
— — trip to, 86.
— — period of upheaval, 97.
VIEW of Yellowstone Basin, 20, 296.
Village, Indian, site of, 17.
Volunteer Indian, scout, 17.
Volcanic overflow of Pliocine age, 131.
WAGON-ROAD to Montana via Yellowstone
Park, appendix, and 1, 3, 55.
Wahsatch Mountains, 97.
— — period of upheaval, 97.
Washakee, chief of the Shoshones, 16.
— Needles, trip to, 52,91.
— — ascent of, 14.
Water-supply, 153.
Waters, difficulty of preserving, for analysis,
305.
Watershed, Crown of the continent, 46, 102.
— double, 101.
— secondary, 46.
Water, Two Ocean, discovery of, 40.
Wind action, 167.
Wind River Mountains, passes over, 47.
— — — trip to, 89.
— — Valley, return to, 42.
Wind River Valley, description of 13.
Wood, silicified, in volcanic conglomerate,
185.
— — explanation of origin, 186.
Wyoming Mountains, 99.
YELLOWSTONE Lake, former area of 131.
— — first sight of 20.
— — temperature of, 22.
— — Basin, formed by deposition, 295.
— — — view of, 296.
— — — fitness as a resort for invalids, 307.
— — — classification of springs in, 305-306.
— — — Medicinal value of springs, 306.
— River, 53.
— — old channel, 167.
— — headwaters of, 15.
— Falls, 23, 24, 26, 163.
— Grand Cañom of, 53, 163.
— National Park, 58.
— route to Montana, 55.
Yellow-Water Creek, 297.
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