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THIS BOOK
FORMS PART OF THE
ORIGINAL LIBRARY
OF THE
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
B.OUCHT IN EUROPE
1838 TO 1839
BY
ASA GRAY
J. *> '1
in
*■>
TRAVELS
ALONG THE
MEDITER RANEA.N,
AND PARTS ADJACENT;
IN COMPANY WITH
THE EARL OF BELMORE,
DURING THE YEARS 1816-17-18:
EXTENDING AS FAR AS
THE SECOND CATARACT OF THE NILE,
JERUSALEM, DAMASCUS, BALBEC,
ILLUSTRATED BY PLANS AND OTHER ENGRAVINGS.
BY
ROBERT RICHARDSON, M. D.
LICENTIATE OF THE ROYAL COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS IN LONDON.
VIRTUTE ACQUIRITUR HONOS.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR T. CADELL, IN THE STRAND; AND
W. BLACKWOOD, EDINBURGH.
1822.
CONTENTS TO VOL. II.
CHAP. XV.
PAGE
Thebes 1
Large Freneh Work . .3
Thebes, on the west side of the Nile 7
Gornou ib.
Memnonium .. 14
Statue of Memnon 38
Medina Thabou 44
Coptic Church 62
Thebes, ©n the east side of the Nile 78
Luxor 79
Karnac 84
Coptic Church 98
Mummies 112
Papyri.» 114
Egyptian Statuary 116
Employment of the Theban wo-
men .122
Tirsi Moslimin ib.
CHAP. XVI.
Voyage down the Nile 125
A Coptic Convent .136
Pilgrims 142
Pyramids of Dahschour 144
Of the Masonic Arch 147
Pyramid of Cephrenus .154
Site of Memphis 157
CHAP. XVII.
Ruins of On 164
Land of Goshen 166
Excavations above Old Cairo . .169
University of Cairo.......... ,171
CHAP. XVIII.
Departure from Cairo 172
Salehiyyeh ^77
El Arisen !91
vraza . «••«.«.«,,».».,.#% 198
PAGE
Askelon 201
Ashdod 205
Jaffa 208
Raima 217
Karialoonah 224
Arab dinner 227
CHAP. XIX.
Jerusalem • • • • »238
Omar Effendi 239
Accounts of Jerusalem 250
Armenians 256
Jews 261
Ruins $67
Turkish evenings • .270
Mosque of Omar and the Haram
Schereeff. 283
Grotto of the Lord Jesus 308
Bed of ditto ib.
Berca Solymon 309
Sects of Mussulmans 312
Palace of Pontius Pilate 316
Church of the Holy Sepulchre. .320
Holy Sepulchre 322
Mount Calvary 325
Battles between the Romans and
Greeks 326
Ceremonies. 329
Opinion on the places exhibited
within the Church of the Se-
pulchre 333
Ancient Jerusalem 344
Mount Zion 346
Ravine round the city, 354
Brook Kedron 357
Vale of Jehoshaphat 363
Garden of Gethsemane 36^
Mount of Olives 367
Bethan y ., 37Q
Mountain of Offence. 371
CONTENTS.
CHAP. XX.
PAGE
Bethlehem 374
The place of the Nativity 377
Solomon's pools .... 379
St. John's in the Desert 381
Where David slew Goliath 386
Procession of the Pilgrims to the
Jordan 387
Departure from Jerusalem ... .403
CHAP. XXI.
Journey to Nablous 404
Sebast6, or Samaria 412
Jenin 416
Bisan 418
Tiberias » 426
Nazareth 434
Source of the Jordan 451
CHAP. XXII.
Damascus 460
Where Saul fell to the Earth... Ab.
Ahmet Bey 464
Streets. 467
JBazars 468
PAGE
CafiSs 473
Agro Damasceno 478
View from Satehiyyeh 479
Turks and Jews 486
Caravans from Damascus to Bag-
dadt 491
Scham 493
Population of Damascus 494
of the World ib.
The house of Judas. 495
of Ananias ib.
CHAP. XXIII.
Journey up the Barrada 498
Ein Figgi 499
Zibdane* 501
Balbec , 502
Mount Lebanon.. 511
Cedars of Lebanon 512
Eden 514
Tripoli 517
Nausa 521
Slaves ib.
Milo „ 525
Malta 526
ERRATA.
Page 7, line 24, for county, read country.
■ 9, 7, for longer, read larger.
63, 2, after on, insert our.. . . . -
95, 6, for Thabau, read Thabou.
155, 1, for strictly, read nearly.
■■ 201, 21, for herbs, read herds.
—.— 237, 13, for Pisons, read Pisans.
326, 12, for swooning, read writhing.
« 331, 17, for unconsolitary read unconsolatory.
404, 1, for CHAPTER XX. read CHAPTER XXL
460,. . 1, for CHAPTER XXf. read CHAPTER XXII.
f—- 498, l, for CHAPTER XXII. read CHAPTER XXIII.
EXPLANATION
PLATES.
VOL. II.
DESCRIPTION OF THE ICHNOGRAPHICAL PLAN OF
THEBES PAGE 1.
THEBES, ON THE WEST SIDE OF THE RIVER.
1. Habitations and Tombs cut in the Rock—2. Valley of Biban el Me-
iook—3. Entrances of the Tombs of the Kings, latitude 25° 44' 31"—4. Ruins
©f Gornou—5. Northern Dair, with the Rows of Sphinxes and ruined
Fornix—6. Memnonium, with adjoining Brick Mounds and Brick Vaults—
7. Dair el Medina—8. Tank of Water—9. Statues of Shamy and Damy,
the northernmost supposed to be that of Memnon; latitude 25° 43' 13"—
10. Two Temples of Medina Thabou; latitude 25° 43> 8", longitude
32° 37' 32"—11. Coptic Church—12. Southern Dair—13, Brick Mound,
supposed to be a Fragment of the Wall of Thebes—14. Ancient Reservoir,
or Hippodrome, with the Village of El Barat on the side of it—15. Ruins—
16. Sycamore-tree—17. Propylon—18. Dromos—19. Pronaos—20. Sekos.
THEBES, ON THE EAST SIDE OF THE RIVER, OR
DIOSPOLIS.
1. Luxor j latitude 25° 41' 50", longitude 32<> 39' 16"—2. Road to Karnac
—3. Rows of Sphinxes—4. Temple of Isis, and Villages of Karnac—
5. Propylons—6. Ruined Temple—7. Grand Temple of Karnac; latitude
25° 43' 2", longitude 32° 40' 24"—8. Ruined Temples—9. Tanks of Water—
10. Coptic Church—11. Arab Tents—12. Medamoud.
PUNISHMENT OF REBELLION 4<9.
THE BALANCE—67-
EXPLANATION OF THE PLATES,
ICHNOGRAPHICAL PLAN OF JERUSALEM AND ITS
ENVIRONS PAGE 238.
1. The Holy Sepulchre—2. The small Chamber in front of it—3. The
Stone on which the Angel sat—1. Five Chapels—5. Globe in the Greek
Chapel—6. Great Altar in ditto.—7. Stone of Unction—8. Mount Calvary,
the plaee of the three Crosses—9. Where Christ wan nailed to the Cross
—10. The Altar of Isaac—11. The Altar of Melchisedek—12. The Rent
in the Rock—13. Where the Cross was found—14. Altar of St. Helena—
15.- The Stone in the centre of the Sakhara, with the ground plan of
the Mosque—16. Stoa Sakhara, with Chapels round it—IT. El Aksa—
18. Orange Fountain—19. Haram Schereeff— 20. Where the Sect HambaH
pray—21. Entrance to the Grotto of the Lord Jesus, and the Berca Soly-
mon—* 21. Sereer Sidn Aisa, or Bed of the Lord Jesus—22. Where Maho-
met is to sit on the day of Judgment—23. Throne of SoVomon—24. Pool
of Bethesda—25. Pilate's House—26. Herod's Palace—27. Mosque of St.
Anne 28. Where the Virgin Mary swooned—29. Mournful Way—30. Ruins
at the Gate of Judgment—31. Ruins—32. Latin Convent—35. The House
for female Pilgrims—34. Pool of Bethsheba—35. Castle of David—36. Ar-
menian Convent on Mount Zion—37. Garden of the Armenian Convent
—38. Convent of St. John—39. St. Peter's Prison—40. House of Annas—
41. Jews'Synagogue—42. Bazars—43. Rocky Ravine—44. Ruins—45. Wall
of Sulphur—46. Subterranean Cistern of Water—47. Hospital of St. Hele-
na-—48. House of Omar Effendi—19. Zion Gate—50. Bethlehem Gate—
60. Damascus Gate—61. Herod's or Ephraim Gate—62. St. Stephen's Gate
63. Golden Gate—64. Dung Gate—65. Sepulchre of David on Mount Zion
—66. Palace of Caiaphas—67. Tombs—68. Part of a ruined Wall—69. Ruin
70. Ravine round the City, commonly called the Valley of the Son ofHin-
nom 71. Pool of Hezekiah—72. Sepulchres of the City of David—
73. Campo Santo, or Aceldama—74. Well of Nehemiah—75. Where Isaiah
was sawn asunder—76. The Terraces by which Mount Zion descend—79.
King's Pool—80. Pool of Siioam,by which the Road from Siloa passes up to
Mount Zion—81. Brook Kedron—82. Turkish Cemeteries—83 .Turkish Ora-
tory—84. Dragon's Pool—85. Pits full of human Bones—86. Where Jere-
miah wrote the Lamentations—87. A Cistern cut in the Rock—88. Scopo,
where Titus encamped—89. Road to Jaffa—90. Mount Gihon—91. Upper
Pool of Gihon, where Solomon was crowned—92. Burying-ground—
93. Road to St. John in the Desert—94. Place of the Nativity at Beth-
lehem—95. The Manger in which Christ was laid—96. The Stalls for the
Horses, now Chapels—97, Solomon's Pook beyond Bethlehem—98. House
EXPLANATION OF THE PLATES.
of evil Counsel—99. Valley of the Brook Kedron, leading to Santa Saba—
100. A high Mountain rising directly from the Bed of the Siloa, not
named nor examined—101. Village of Siloa—102. Tomb of Jehoshaphat—
103. Tomb of Zecharias—104. Tomb of Absalom—105. Print of our Sa-
vior's Foot in the Rock in the Bed of the Brook Kedron—106. Tomb of the
Prophets—107. Ancient Tombs of the Jews in the Valley of Jehoshaphat—
108. Sepulchre of the Virgin Mary—109. Grotto of Gethsemane—
110. Garden of Gethsemane—111. Sepulchres—112. The Mount of Tempt-
ation—113. Northern Pinnacle of the Mount of Olives, with the ruined
Church, marking the spot where the Angels appeared to the Apostles after
the Ascension, and addressed them, "Ye men of Galilee"—114. The
Print of our Savior's Foot, marking the spot of his Ascension from the
Mount of Olives, with the adjoining Village—115. Where the Lord's
Prayer was composed—116. Where the Creed was composed—117. Where
Christ wept over Jerusalem—118. Road to Bethany—119. Tomb of Laza-
rus—120. The barren Fig-tree-+-l2i. Where Judas hanged himself—
122. Tombs of the Kings of Juda—123. Road to Damascus.

TRAVELS,
CHAPTER XV.
EXAMINATION AND DESCRIPTION OF THEBES.
The instability of all human grandeur has been the
constant and favorite theme of philosophers in every
age; and every moment of man's existence furnishes
proof of the lesson which the Sages inculcate. The
appeal may issue from a mouldering wall, a crazy
bench, or a tottering throne; but it comes with
irresistible force upon the heart, amid the ruins of
an ancient and mighty capital. Thebes is cele-
brated, in the language of Homer, as the city with
100 gates, through each of which 200 men on
horses and in chariots issued to the field. It was
140 furlongs in circumference, adorned with mag-
nificent temples, public buildings, and private
houses of four and five stories high. It was the
richest and most beautiful city, not only in Egypt,
but in all the world. Let us see how time has
respected this boasted labour of man.
VOL. II. b
THEBES.
Next morning, the 14th of January, we pro-
ceeded, in company with Mr. Salt, to view the
antiquities which the diligent and faithful Greek
had collected for the noble traveller, during his
absence in Nubia, and with whose industry and
success there was every reason to be satisfied; one of
the most curious and interesting articles which he
had discovered, was an ancient door made of what
appeared to be common deal. It was nearly eight
feet high, about three feet and a half broad, and
the boards were fastened on with pins. There were
nails in it; but they appeared to be of a more modern
date than the door itself, and not to have been
any way connected with its original construction.
A round projecting peg of the wood on one
side, at the top and bottom of the door, served as
a tenon, which being received into a mortise above
and below, formed the hinges on which the door
readily turned backward and forward. A few
hieroglyphics with a figure of Osiris were carved
gel the outside of it. He is represented in a sitting
posture, with his hands crossed over his breast,
holding the crook and scourge. So that in Thebes
Osiris appears to have been the guardian god of
the door, as Saint Januarius is of the wine casks
at Naples, in the present day.
This ancient relic was found near one of the
tombs that have been cut in the southern aspect of
the mountain above the village of Gornou, a little
THEBES.
to the west of the road that leads into the valley
of the tombs of the kings. It is in an excellent
state of preservation- The noble Earl made a
present of it to Mr. Salt, and it is now in the
British Museum. The remaining products of the
labours of the Greek consisted of stone jars with
moveable tops, representing a wolfs, a dog's, or
a hawk's head, with a number of scarabei, small
statues, and stones covered with deities, offerings,
priests, and hieroglyphics; all of which were
sufficiently curious and interesting.
After this examination we proceeded up the
valley of the tombs of the kings, where Mr. Salt
and Mr. Beechy had taken up their abode, and
had assiduously employed themselves, during our
Nubian excursion, in taking drawings of the finest
groups and figures in the newly discovered tomb.
We were favoured with a sight of their labours,
immediately on our arrival, and had reason to
admire the accuracy of the representations, and the
warmth and force of colouring, with which they
had imitated, but not surpassed, the original.
We next proceeded to compare the labours of
the French Savans, in the large French wrork, with
what they professed to represent. We began with
that which is called the HarpTomb, on account of
its containing the representation of that musical
instrument, which occurs twice in one of the
chambers, and which was first copied by the
b 2
THEBES.
celebrated Bruce, and his secretary; and the re-
presentation which they have given both of the
instruments, and the group of dilettanti, will cer-
tainly not yield in respect of accuracy to that of
their wise successors. The priest who plays on the
harp, on the left hand side, is dressed in a long
white robe shot with small red stripes : his head
is shaved and his feet bare, according to the custom
of the ancient Egyptian priests. The Savans have
attired him in a fine flowing black mantle. If they
meant to make any changes for decency's or com-
fort's sake, they ought to have bestowed on him
a night cap, and a pair of sandals or shoes. The
gentleman too who is seated on a chair at a small
distance listening to the music, and who in the
original is habited in a short loose robe, falling a
little way down the thighs, with anklets and brace-
lets, the rest of the thighs, arms and legs being
bare, him they have dressed in a pair of nice blue
pantaloons a la frangois, and a strait waistcoat of
th§ same colour, and his head-dress which reaches
up to the ceiling, they have curtailed into a short
snug bonnet, like a cap of liberty. Thus giving
the whole group, a sort of general resemblance,
but as unlike in the detail as possible. The work
of the Savans is equally incorrect in other parts
of the colouring and drawing, as in that of the
mantle and the head-dress; making that blue
which should be red, or black which should be
THEBES.
white, yellow which should be green, short which
should be long, &c. Thus looking at any thing
but the object before them, and representing any
thing but the truth. After so many misrepresen-
tations in the works of the wisemen, it will be no
great difficulty to decide whose names should
precede the verb in the very courtly inscription of
Bruce est un Menteur; and if we might not, with
some degree of propriety, address the wisemen in
the words of the Roman bard, mutato nomine,
de te fabula narratur. Wisemen are generally
considered as a singular and collective body, so
that there is no occasion to put the words in the
plural number. I shall not pursue the ungracious
task of detailing their blunders in the other parts
of this chamber; but I beg leave to mention that
Mr. Salt has made a correct drawing of it, exactly
as it is, without supplying any of the ravages that
time has made in the original work, and without
omitting any of the names or inscriptions that
different visitors have left upon the walls. It is
to be hoped that this drawing will one day
see the light, and then the difference between
truth and the performances of the wisemen, in a
work that costs only 600 guineas, will be visible to
all the world.
But this chamber is not the only one in which
these wisemen have attempted to paint and com-
pose for the ancient Egyptians, In a small room
6
THEBES*
on the opposite side of the same tomb, there is
represented in one place a number of chairs with
people sitting on them. The chairs in the tomb
are so elegantly shaped that they might challenge
a comparison with any pattern of modern times*
The same wisemen have given drawings of them,
but both the drawing and colouring are so different
from the truth, blue, black, or green occupying
the place of red, white, or yellow, that on bring-
ing the drawing and the original together, the
difficulty is not to find out wherein they differ, but
wherein they agree, and to conceive how any men,
letting alone wisemen, wishing to exhibit a true
representation of ancient art, could possibly offer
to the world such a thing as they have done in the
600 guinea work. The carelessness or want of
fidelity to their originals, shewn by the wisemen,
is equally glaring in other tombs, which we had
occasion to examine, as in that in which I have
specified it; a circumstance which I believe the
count Forbin can testify, having seen the same
comparison that I have now described* And every
person, and every friend of art, must especially
regret that the late French government should have
so much misplaced its confidence, as to have ex-
pended so much money in employing men who
w7ould not, or who could not tell the truth; and in
publishing their work, which no person can trust,
as a guide in his Egyptian researches; being unable
THEBES.
to tell when it is faithful to the original, and when
it is not. The world would have been relieved
from this dilemma had the authors of the different
drawings condescended to inform us when they ex-
hibited what was really ancient Egyptian, and which
might of course be judged of as specimens of an-
cient art, and when they were treating us with the
splendid lucubrations of their own genius, which
would of course be amenable to the laws of modern
criticism. Truth is the agreement of word and
deed, and though those who set them at variance
may call themselves wisemen, posterity will find
out another name by which to designate them.
Having made a general survey of the field, we
proceeded, each as his inclination led him, to ex-
amine the ruins of Thebes in detail. The noble
traveller who kept a number of Arabs constantly
at work, set an example of the most commendable
industry and perseverance to the whole. The man
who toils for bread could not return more regularly
to the performance of his stated task, than the no-
ble traveller to direct and superintend the opera-
tions of his labourers. The superb collection which
he has brought to this county is the best attestation
of his zeal and the success which crowned his efforts.
In describing the ruins of Thebes, I shall begin
at the village of Gornou, because it is nearest the
river, and the first object which the traveller en-
counters in his tour through the ruins, on the west
8
THEBES.
side of the Nile, from which it is distant about a
quarter of a mile* This village stands in a grove of
palm-trees, where the cultivated soil joins the rocky
flat, exactly at the spot where the road turns off
to the right to go to the tombs of the kings. It
consists of a number of houses of unburnt brick,
generally small, but some of them much larger and
of superior workmanship to the average of ruined
houses in this country. At the time when we visited
it, it was quite uninhabited. The natives had aban-
doned it, and retired to the caves in the adjoining
rocky flat; because from the low situation, and the
filling up of the canals, the village is liable to be over-
flowed during the time of the inundation. However,
when the river subsides, and the ground becomes
dry, they quit their rocky tenements and return to
their mansions of clay, which are more conveni-
ently situated for water, grazing and agriculture.
This village is sometimes called Gornou or Corner,
which is the name of the district on the north side
or end of the valley, and which now contains se-
veral separate small villages, of which however this
appears once to have been the chief, from the cir-
cumstance of its containing a ruined temple, which
none of the others do, though some of them are
larger than it, Both in Egypt and Nubia the name
of the district and the name of the principal vil-
lage are generally the same. This village has also
been called Ebek, and on asking the name of the
THEBES.
9
ruin from the Arab guide who was a native of the
place, he called it Cassr el Gornou. The ruined
temple here has been very little mentioned by tra-
vellers, though but for it, I don't think even the
village would be named. It is small indeed, when
compared with the Memnonium and Medinat Ha-
bou j yet it is much longer than those of Northern
Dair, Dair el Medinat, and Southern Dair, which
are seldom omitted. It is so much dilapidated that
it is difficult to make out what has been the extent
of it. The principal entry appears to have been
from the south, where there is a row of eight co-
lumns running along the front of the wall. The
height is about five diameters, and both shafts and
capitals are reeded. Over the door is the usual
ornament of the globe with serpent and wings.
From the passage we entered into a chamber, from
each side of which passages go off into other cham-
bers, or courts. Some of the chambers are small,
and so much filled up with rubbish, that it is almost
impossible to enter them. They are also distributed
in a different manner from what chambers usually
are in the interior of the temples, hence this build-
ing has by some travellers been called a palace;
but the size of the apartments, would, in my opinion,
be equally inconvenient for that; besides, it is 01%
nacnented with sculpture and hieroglyphics in the
same manner as the other temples; and from the
frequent occurrence of the ram's head upon the wall
10 THEBES.
both among the sculpture, and hieroglyphics, it
would appear that Jupiter Ammon was the princi-
pal object of worship in this as well as in the great
temples. Emblems frequent on other temples are
also met with, as sphinxes with the globe over their
heads, Osiris with a scourge and crook in the one
hand, and a hatchet in the other. The figures are
remarkably well cut, but it is difficult to preserve
any thing like a continued story in the sculpture, on
account of the wall being so much dilapidated; be-
sides there being no remains of stone houses in any
of the towns, which have been great, and celebrated,
and seats of trade and opulence, and even of roy-
alty itself, I hardly think it would be presuming
too much to infer that stone houses were very spar-
ingly used by the ancient Egyptians. The external
air in this country is so uniformly delightful, that
any thing which interrupts its free circulation is felt
as disagreeable, and a fine house instead of being
a luxury would really be an inconvenience. Truly
to enjoy the climate of Upper Egypt, a person
should sit in the shady side of his tent, or in the
door of his rocky cave, where he inhales the breath
of heaven as it passes by uncontaminated, or if
mixt with foreign ingredients, it is the odour of
flowers.
Proceeding west from the temple of Gornou
along the edge of the rocky flat, for about three
quarters of a mile, where it turns in a southerly
THEBES.
11
direction, we came to a broad avenue that has been
formed along its surface for nearly an equal di-
stance, straight up to the precipitous front of the
rock. This beautiful avenue is exactly opposite to
the grand propylon of the great temple at Carnac,
and has been lined with a row of sphinxes made
of quartzy sandstone highly crystalized, and, to
judge from the remaining fragments, they have been
of the finest workmanship. Here we also find many
fragments of gigantic statues that have been the
produce of the same quarry. Advancing along this
avenue, over the rocky flat which is every where
strewed with the mouldering remains of brick huts,
and immense high ruins like caravansaries of the
same material, which the natives call Christian
Convents, we came in about three quarters of a
mile to the precipitous front of the rock, where are
the remains both of an ancient temple, and a mo-
dern building. It must have formed a splendid
termination to the avenue above mentioned, and is
exactly opposite to the temple of Carnac and is
called Northern Dair. The high mound of rubbish,
the masses of stone, and polished granite, that lie
scattered about indicate the extent and splendor of
the building: as the few shattered portions of the
walls that still remain testify the barbarian violence
with which it has been overturned. Several cham-
bers still remain; but they are small, filled up with
stones, and close in upon the perpendicular front
12 THEBES.
of the rock, in which there is a doorway cased
with polished granite, leading into several excavated
chambers, which, without a great deal of labor to
clear away the obstructing rubbish, it is impossible
to examine or describe. Several of the chambers on
the outside of the rock have also the posts and
lentils of the doors of polished granite. There is
one beautiful upright table of the same material
about-twelve feet high, and five feet broad, covered
with sculpture and hieroglyphics, and a superb gra-
nite gateway, wrought in the same manner, on
which the hawk frequently occurs among the sculp-
ture, but there is no human figure. Attached to the
ruin on the south side there is a large stone vault
in the form of an arch without being constructed
on the principal of it. The stones on the outside
of the wall are built in line \ but each successive
course projects further into the interior of the build-
ing than the one below it, and the corners of the
stones are rounded away so as to give it the vaulted
form. The stones in the uppermost course on each
side are shorter, on which account they are not on a
perpendicular line with those on the outside. They
are applied to each other by broad surfaces with a
small quantity of cement between them, and are
rounded and smoothed on the inside like the others.
This is not constructed on the principal of the
arch; but if any accident were to make the two
uppermost stones fall in so as to support themselves
THEBES.
13
by lateral pressure, it gives both the key-stone,
and principle of the arch. I do not consider this
vault as coeval with the ancient ruins among which
it exists j but with that part of the building which
was constructed by more modern architects, pro-
bably the Christians. The whole has been covered
with unburnt brick with a view of keeping out the
heat. I observed the same form of the rounded
arch without the principle in the temples of Gir-
genti in Sicily. If there be any passage from the
plain of Thebes through the mountain into the
valley of Biban el Melook, and communicating
with all the tombs in the rock, this is the place
from which it probably entered, and this, in my
opinion, is the proper place to commence the exa-
mination in search of it. No place was more likely
from which to form a private passage to enter the
tombs of the great, than a temple situated close
upon the rock on the other side. The passage from
the tomb lately discovered by Mr. Belzoni, has
been traced already half way through the moun-
tain running in this direction, and it would be dif-
ficult to assign any reason why the shaft of that
tomb should descend so much, and by so many
flights of steps, were it not to attain the low level
of the plain on the other side. This ruin at nor-
thern Dair, has been but little mentioned by tra-
vellers, but it is one of the most ancient in the
Theba'fd.
u
THEBES.
Having retraced our steps along the ancient
avenue to the hedge of the rocky flat, we turned
southward, and in a few minutes reached the
Memnonium; on our way thither we passed many
ruined huts, and many immense piles of unburnt
brick, exactly like those large square piles that are
erected for being burnt. Some very large piles of
this description are close to the ruin itself, and
being placed at right angles to each other, and
continued for a considerable way in each direction,
present the appearance as if they had formed part
of the wall of the village which surrounded the
temple. Some people are of opinion that they did,
but I am rather disposed to think that they were
only kept there till wanted, for the purpose of
building.
The term Memnonium is used by Strabo, to
designate that part of ancient Thebes which lies
on the west side of the river. The French Savans,
however, without any sufficient reason, have re-
stricted it to the magnificent ruin which we are
going to describe.
This beautiful relic of antiquity looks to the
east, and is fronted by a stupendous propylon of
which 234 feet in length are still remaining. The
propylon stands on the edge of the cultivatable
soil; but the area or space for the dromos behind
it, is floored by the solid rock on which the rest of
the temple is erected. The eastern wall is much
THEBES.
1.5
fallen down, and both ends of it are greatly dila-
pidated ; the passage in the centre or doorway is
quite obstructed with the falling in of the wall, and
every stone in the propylon appears to have been
shaken and loosened in its place, as if from the
concussion of an earthquake; for no human violence
seems adequate to produce such an effect in such
an immense mass of building as that under con-
sideration. A stair enters from each end by which
to ascend to the top of the propylon, from which
passages go off into a number of chambers, as in
the temples of Philoe, Edfou, &c. but they arc
so broken, and so filled up as hardly to admit of
any examination. No devices can be obtained
from the eastern wall, and very little from the door-
way. The sculpture on the west end of the latter
merely presents the figure of a hero with the globe,
and serpent over his head. In his right hand he
holds the lotus-headed sceptre, and the sacred Tau
in his left; his standard is reared beside him on his
right, and the bird of victory is hovering over it;
here the tale of the sculpture breaks off, the work
on this side of the passage has not been completed,
and the ravages of desolation prevent us from
reading the other side which has fallen down.
Our attention is now to be directed to the west
aide of the propylon, which has also suffered much
from the cruel outrages of man, but which still
contains some specimens of the art of sculpture
16
THEBES.
not unworthy of attention. Round the door is a
scene of repose, the figures are seated, and hold
sceptres of Osiris, and sacred Taus in their hands,
with offerings before them. Passing on to the
right, the eye is immediately roused from this
peaceful scene by the sight of a hero of gigantic
size, mounted in his war chariot. His head is
crowned with the globe and serpents; the sacred
bird hovers above, of which only the wings remain,
the rest is destroyed. The tyings of his cap
stream out behind, his quiver is adjusted to his
side, and he stands in a most determined attitude,
his bow is bent, and the shaft ready to fly from the
string. There is no charioteer, the reins are tied
round his waist, and in this terrific plight he is
rushing into the midst of his falling and flying foes.
The havoc of his arrows is seen in the heaps of
wounded and slain, pierced through the heart, the
side, the hip, and every part of the body. The
combatants on the side of the conqueror are dressed
in short kirtles like the ancient Egyptians, and many
of them are entirely naked. Those oh the side of
the vanquished are habited in a long and pretty close
fitting robe down to their ankles. They are armed
indiscriminately with square shaped shields rounded
at the top, and carry in their hands swords or clubs,
or an instrument resembling the reaping sickle in
present use, and which they seem to have employed
in the contest, as a hook to bring their flying
THEBES. 17
antagonist within their grasp, when they imme-
diately seized him by the hair of the head, and
plunged their daggers into his breast.
A person who appears conspicuous as the chief
of the fugitive party is flying in'his chariot from
before the conqueror. His greater distance, and
diminished power, are represented by his own infe-
rior size, as well as that of his horses and chariot.
His shield-bearer behind him is struck with an
arrow in the back, and turns round as if to ward
off a second attack, or to ascertain the proximity
of his pursuer. His companion in the chariot, who
appears to have been in the act of fitting an arrow
to the bow, alarmed at the disaster of his friend,
looks round towards the victorious hero with a
^countenance strongly expressive of rage and ap-
prehension; evincing a higher state of the art
than we find exhibited in any of the tombs, and
which we could hardly conceive to have existed at
such an early period in the history of the art of
sculpture as that in which this is believed to have
been executed. There is a fortress in the rear of
the flying army, with a ladder applied to the wall,
on which the assailants are mounting to take it by
storm. The defenders are pushing them off the
ladder, and, in their fall, throwing stones after
them. The compartment above this seems to be
in possession of the assailants, who are aiming their
darts at those below to make them surrender j some
vol. ir. c
THEBES.
of them are represented hanging over the wall,
wishing to drop and make their escape; but per-
ceiving that they must fall into the midst of their
enemies at the bottom, they are afraid to let go
their hold at the top. The horror of their situa-
tion is admirably depicted. In the highest tower a
number of soldiers are raising up their hands in
joyous acclamation at their success. Beside them
is an instrument like a catapulta, containing a
number of arrows undischarged. With this our
view of the combat is terminated. The wall is
covered over with mud, and it is otherwise rough,
and projecting beyond the line as if it had never
been sculptured. Indeed, from the effect of violence
over the whole, the individual expression of the
combatants is greatly injured. Below the prin-
cipal hero already described are two others of
smaller dimensions, and apparently younger in
years, but greatly exceeding, in size and prowess,
those by whom they are surrounded. They too
are mounted in their war chariots, with the globe
over their heads, and the sacred bird hovering above.
One of them, in the same posture with the princi-
pal hero, has his bow bent, and drawn home ready
to wing the shaft upon his enemies. The wounded
and dead, the horses without riders, and the empty
chariots, present a melancholy picture around him.
The other hero is farther advanced in the fight,
#nd accompanied by a phalanx of men, armed with
spears. He appears to have cut his way entirely
TJJEBES. 19
through the ranks of the enemy, and having reined
up his steeds, turns round in his chariot to speak to
a person behind him, who seems to direct his
attention to what is passing in the rear. The face
of the youthful combatant is greatly injured, and
the sculpture terminates at the projecting unfinished
wall mentioned above.
Passing northward from the gateway along the
same front of the propylon, a horrid scene is
exposed to our view, in the representation of the
interior of a captured town, with all the dreadful acts
of riot and outrage, that but too frequently cha-
racterize this hideous method of glutting the ven-
geance of a savage conqueror, by giving up a town
to be sacked, and unbridling the infuriated soldiers
to plunder, insult and massacre the unfortunate
citizens. Towards the middle of the piece the
principal hero is seated on a throne, which is sur-
rounded with the flowering lotus, the sacred plant
of the Egyptians. The tyings of his head-dress
flow down upon his shoulders. In his left hand
he holds a sceptre, and with his right he points to
a procession below. Two banners are erected
behind him. Near to this great personage another
warrior seems as if just alighted from his chariot:
his horses are held by three attendants, a long
tabletof hieroglyphics runs along their back. It is
different from that of any of the other warriors ; but
I could not copy the whole of it, from the injury
c 2
SO THEBES.
done to the wall. This figure may be intended to
represent the chief of the adverse party, though
it must be owned that under such circumstances
they were seldom so mildly treated. He stands
with a submissive and disconsolate any and seems
extremely solicitous to attract the attention of the
above great personage, but remains behind his
chariot, without daring to approach till he receives
permission. Meanwhile the person upon the throne
is entirely occupied with a procession of indivi-
duals who are advancing towards him, each with a
roll in his hand, to record the sentence of the
judge, on the unfortunate victims of his displeasure,
the execution of which is to be witnessed by the
unfortunate chief.
On the upper part of the wall there is represented
some smart skirmishings about a round tower, which
is totally abandoned, or rather it appears to have
been left unfinished by the artist. In different
places over the town, and round about it, the
prisoners with their hands tied over their heads are
undergoing the punishment of flagellation, or are
led on with ropes about their necks, or their hands
tied in the same posture, while their brutal con-
querors are insulting them by pulling their beards,
beating them with clubs, and embittering their
situation by every species of the most unfeeling
indignities. Others of the victors are solely intent
on plunder, and are helping themselves to whatever
THEBES. 2*
is most agreeable to their taste, and laying their
spoil upon beasts of burden to be carried away,
some of which they are most unaccountably putting
to death. Several rows of hieroglyphics inter-
vene, after which the sculpture again commences,
but the wall is so shattered and bedaubed with
mud, that it is impossible to understand it, without
having first cleared that away which would have
required more time than I could afford.
There are fifty-six paces between the propylon
and the front of the temple. This space was pro-
bably inclosed with a high wall on each end, and
formed the dromos, but it does not appear that
there were any columns in it, and no traces of the
walls exist, except the rough marks of their junc-
tion with the propylon. This space is now the
public road between Gornou and Medina Habou,
and the only remains of antiquity which it contains,
are the pedestal and fragments of a most magni-
ficent statue of large grained granite, which stands,
or rather is broken in a thousand pieces, a little in
advance of the front wall of the temple. This
front wall is greatly dilapidated, and the stones
carried off, and what remains of it does not indicate
in its external aspect that imposing grandeur, and
profusion of ornament, that generally characterize,
the facade of an Egyptian temple. Passing round,
however, to the inside of the wall, for it is impos-
sible to enter by the door-way which lias been
%% THEBES.
thrown down, probably by the fall of the above-
mentioned statue, the walls are adorned in the
usual manner, and the eye meets again the horrors
of another battle scene, equally terrible and disas-
trous with that on the propylon.
The hero, mounted on his chariot, which has the
figure of a lion rampant sculptured on its side, is
dressed in robes chequered with red and pale blue.
His bow is bent, the reins are tied round his waist,
and he is driving furiously over the body of a hero
who has been laid prostrate by an arrow in the left
breast. Paralyzed and panic struck his enemies
are flying before him; men and horses and chariots
in wild disorder are plunging into the river, and
having swam across, are helped out by their friends,
who are assembled in crowds on the opposite bank.
Some of the chariots in their flight are loaded
with two riders; one of whom holds the lash and
reins, and the other bears a shield. Others of the
chariots have three riders, one holds the lash and
reins, another bears a shield, and the third is armed
with a spear. Most of the wounds are inflicted on
the breast; a warrior falls on his back, and looking
up, takes leave of his associates in arms, in a table
of hieroglyphics, in which blue birds are the pre-
vailing emblems. A horse is wounded in the
shoulder, and writhing with pain, advances his leg,
and tries to rub out the dart with his nose. His
rider lies before him shot through the breast. The
THEBES.
23
object of contest is a round tower or fortress placed
on an eminence in the bend of a river, the charac-
teristics of which are not to be found in any situa-
tion in the Nile, between Rosetta and the second
Cataract. It resembles more the rock of Troy, as
it is rounded by the Simois above the village of
Bonarbashy, than any place to which I can assimi-
late it. Here the wall is destroyed, and prevents
us from pursuing the story any farther.
On a higher compartment of the wall than the
scene which we have just described, numbers of in-
dividuals are advancing with offerings towards a
great personage seated in the middle; near to
whom a female is grasping the stem of the lotus,
which she is endeavouring to cut with a hook.
Above this is the sacred bull, with globe and cre-
scent over head, a person, pouring out libations
from a vase, goes before him, and another bearing
offerings comes up behind. The rest of the wall is
greatly injured and covered with mud.
The columns in front of the wall, forming the
piazza, are adorned in the usual fashion with sculp-
tured representations of heroes and deities. Isis,
Osiris, Mendes, the hawk-headed and dog-headed
deity; some with square beards, others with round,
holding sceptres in their hands, and receiving offer-
ings of lotus-flowers, and goblets, with numerous
tablets of hieroglyphics. That on the right should-
er of the large broken statue, already mentioned,
24
THEBES.
occurs frequently, and is nearly the same with that
of the heroic personage whose achievements are
sculptured along the wall. He is seated on a throne,
his face, limbs, and chair are painted blue like the
figures of Osiris in the tombs.
The front of these columns is formed into statues
exhibiting Osiris with his hands crossed over the
breast, holding the crook and scourge; a row of
hieroglyphics passes down the front j the limbs are
not separated, but closed up in the shape of a
mummy, like those already described in the temples
of Diarfessen and AbsambuL Four of these sta-
tues are still remaining on the east side of the
pronaos; they consist of seven stones each, and
are about twenty-two feet high. Facing these four,
columns, and at the distance of thirty-four paces,
there are four other columns exactly similar. In all
of them the greater part of the face and head are
wanting, the lower part of the face and beard re-
main. There have been four of these columns on
each side of the door of the pronaos fronting an
equal number on the opposite side of the court;
that is, sixteen in all. This space has been bounded
on the north and on the south by two rows of
columns, forming, with the sixteen Osiris columns,
a magnificent piazza all round the court. Only
two of these columns now remain on the north
side, and three on the south; they are reeded at -
the base and at the top, and are twelve feet in
THEBES. 25
diameter. They stand upon the solid rock, which
is strewed over with a slight covering of sand; and
if any part of this most magnificent temple was
ever intrusted with the mortal remains of any of
the Egyptian heroes, this I should consider as the
most likely place to search for the deposit. In the
rear of the eastern row of these columns or statues
there are the fragments of many statues of black
granite; one of them has the head punched off, and
much disintegrated by the fall j the nose is broken,
the ears entire, the eyes open, but not perforated,
and the whole expression of the countenance is re-
markably placid and benign, such as is not to be
seen in the statuary of any other country, except
that of Egypt. On the back of one of the statues,
besides the hieroglyphics, there is sculptured the
figure of a man with the right hand extended, and
a staff in the left. These are at the north side;
but the row of statues appear to have been conti-
nued through the whole breadth of the temple,
for on the south side there are also many fragments
of statues. Here we see the venerable remains of
the body and pedestal of that noble head which is
nowin the British Museum, under the unwarrantable
and gratuitous appellation of the young Memnon.
On each side of the pedestal is represented the
elegant device of two men tying the lotus round
what has been called the stalk of a table, but which
to me rather appears to resemble the instrument
26 TiiEUKs.
which the Roman augurs called ligula or little
tongue, with which they examined the entrails of
the victims. This device is also exhibited on the
pedestal of the statue which is generally considered
to be the real statue of Memnon, and on that of
his ancient companion who is seated on the other
side of the avenue near him in the plain, both of
which serve as the sacred guardians to the entrance
of another ruined temple which has nothing in
common with the one under consideration. The
device is by no means rare, as we have seen it on
the monolithic niches at Debude and Philce, and
many other places, so that its existence on any
pedestal, statue, temple or tomb, can in no wise be
considered as establishing a relationship between.it
and the vocal statue of the son of Aurora; still
less so here, as the tablets of hieroglyphics, the
only certain proofs of affinity or identity, are quite
different in these two statues. This misnamed sta-
tue was about twenty-two feet high; that which is
supposed to be the real statue of Memnon is about
fifty-two; and nothing but the trifling coincidence
of the ornament on the pedestal gave rise to the
silly conceit of bestowing upon it the name which
it at present bears, and for which there is just as
much reason as there would be for calling a dagger
a young sword, or a pistol a young gun. It has
been broken over a little above the elbow, and has
hieroglyphics down the back, which it has been
THEBES- 27
Stated above are not the same with those on the
back of the statue which Strabo, and Pausanias,
and other authors on more ancient authority have
dignified with the name of the statue of Memnon.
It is farther remarkable that the rays of the sun
struck the statue of Memnon as soon as it appeared
in the horizon. Now such is the position of this
statue, that I do not think the rays of the rising
sun could strike it, and I even think it very doubt-
ful if they could touch it at any time of the day.
I speak of the situation of the statue when the
temple was entire, and when it seems to have been
under the roof.
Advancing about eight or ten paces from these
venerable fragments, we come to another wall,
which on the east side is covered with representa-
tions of Osiris, Mendes, the sacred bull, crowned
hawks, hawk-headed deities, with processions of
priests, and people on their knees presenting offer-
ings. On the other side we are again presented
with a battle scene, which, although extremely in-
teresting to the spectator, I shall not describe, as it
has many circumstances in common with those
already mentioned; the hero is the same, and ac-
companied with the same hieroglyphics, and the
object of attack is a fortified tower, as in the
others.
Between this ruined wall and the next is a distance
of thirty-five paces, which is filled up with a stu-
28 THEBES,
pendous colonnade, consisting of eight rows of
columns, with six columns in each row, twenty-eight
of which are still remaining, covered with sculptured
figures and hieroglyphics. The two rows of co-
lumns in the middle are higher and larger than
the others, and have five spreading capitals re-
sembling lotus leaves. The ceiling consists of large
flat stones ornamented with the sacred bird, and
tablets of hireoglyphics the same with those on the
top of the wall above the columns. Advancing
to the next wall, it is equally ornamented with
sculpture and hieroglyphics, processions and repre-
sentations of Osiris and Isis, the latter of whom
holds in her hand a graduated staff which rests on
a crocodile which rests on a globe. On the other
side, the wall is equally ornamented with proces-
sions of sacred boats, and offerings to the different
deities. Here we are presented with another
colonnade of twenty columns, two in each row, and
ten across the building as in the former one. The
veiling is ornamented with stars and boats, a figure
of Nephthe and two crocodiles. The next wall is
ten paces distant from this; and here, among other
allegorical devices, we perceive the hero who has
fought his way through the whole of the arduous
contests pourtrayed on the walls, seated on a throne
in the midst of a far spreading tree. His head is
adorned with the tutulus surmounted with serpents
and feathers, and a square plaited beard under his
THEBES. 29
chin. His left hand is folded across his breast, and
holds the sceptre up to his shoulder; in his right
he grasps the sacred Tau which rests on his knee.
Numbers of men are performing genuflexions be-
fore him, and grasping his throne with their hands.
Before them stands the great goddess Isis with a
pen in her hand, which she is about to withdraw
from the last letter of a hieroglyphic inscription
which she has just finished on the cordate fruit of
the tree which seems to be the Thebaic palm. Be-
hind the goddess an Ibis headed deity or Tau has
just completed another tablet of hieroglyphics, on
another fruit of the same kind, and is also about re-
moving his pen from the last character. Behind the
hero, Horus has just concluded the same operation.
On examining these tablets of hieroglyphics, we find
they are the same that accompany the hero through
the whole of the battles sculptured upon the wall,
and now point him out as the principal object of
regard in this interesting group. Such are the
rewards of glorious and successful toil. It is ob-
servable that the last character which the pen has
closed is the circle, and there it emphatically rests.
At the close of this arduous achievement having
defeated his enemies, given peace to his country,
and covered himself with glory, the hero sits down
under the shade of his native palm, his name is
recorded by the immortals, the memory of his
deeds live in every heart; and though at last he
may drop into the earth like a ripened fruit in its
30
THEBES.
season, yet his seed shall rise up after him, genera-
tion after generation, inheriting their father's pos-
sessions and renown, as long as the indigenous
palm shall grow in his native Thebes, or the gods
exist to record and approve of virtuous deeds.
Among the animals sculptured on this wall we
observed the camelopardalis standing over water
with an eye above him, and a sword behind him.
Beyond this there had been another chamber, filled
with another colonnade, of which only four columns
now remain, which are upon the right of the door as
we went out. They resemble in size and decoration
those in the after parts of the edifice. Their com-
panions on the other side have been all removed
by the unfeeling hand of man, whose invidious out-
rage spares no monument, however splendid, that
his fellow creatures have been at the trouble to
erect.
This side of the wall is also extremely interesting
for sculpture and hieroglyphics. In one place a deity
is exhibited in the dress of a mummy. His arms are
crossed over his breast, and his hands, exposed, hold
the sceptre of Osiris, which is bound round with
the lotus; a square tablet of curious workmanship,
which we have called the breastplate of truth or
judgment, lies flat upon the breast, and is suspended
by a chain round his neck. Before him is an
offering, consisting of three antelopes and other
ingredients, and a priest with a censer in his hand
burning incense. Another priest is pouring a
THEBES.
libation from a vase shaped like the sacred Tail,
upon the lotus flowers, over which the incense is
burning. The other wall that bounded this cham-
ber is entirely destroyed.
We have now passed completely through this
noble and most interesting ruin, of which it may
be truly said that only a skeleton remains. It has
been about 200 feet wide and 600 feet long. It
contained six courts and chambers, passing from
side to side of the temple, which were ornamented
with about 160 columns, thirty feet high; all the
side walls have been broken down, and the mate-
rials of which they were constructed carried away.
What a small remnant has escaped the cruel deso-
lation! A few fragments of the party-walls that
separated the apartments, forty-eight columns of
all these stately colonnades, and a mass of the
propylon, testify to the spectator what a noble
edifice and what specimens of art once adorned
this memorable spot, and send him away sorrowing
for what it is now.
Of the large unfortunate statue that once stood
in the dromos, a little in advance of the front wall,
I cannot refrain from saying a few words. It cer-
tainly is by far the finest relic of art which the
place contains, and I have no doubt once was its
brightest ornament. By some travellers it has been
supposed to be the statue of Gsymandyas, by
others that of Memnon, and by many these two
32
Thebes.
illustrious individuals have been regarded as one
and the same person. It would be a tedious and
unprofitable task to enter into any learned dis-
cussion of the subject in this place; but perhaps
I may receive the indulgence of my readers while
I state that Herodotus does not mention the names
of either of the heroes as connected with Thebes,
nor indeed the name of Osymandyas at all: and if
Strabo, or Pausanias, or Juvenal are to be heard on
the subject, their description of the statue of Mem-
non cannot apply to the one under consideration,
which has been entirely thrown off the pedestal,
laid prostrate on the ground, and broken into a
thousand pieces apparently by the fall. This over-
throw may have been occasioned by an earthquake,
or by the malignant order of a savage conqueror
to wreak his horrid vengeance on the statue, when
the illustrious individual whom it represented was
beyond the sphere of his operations. It is about
six and twenty feet broad between the shoulders,
and fifty-four feet round the chest; thirteen feet
five inches from the shoulder to the elbow. One
fracture passes right through the breast, and the
belly of the biceps muscle; another through the
abdomen. The legs and thighs are dreadfully shat-
tered, and much of them carried away. These
fractures have evidently been produced by the fall,
for there is not the slightest mark of external in-
jury on any part of the statue about them. The
THEBES.
33
surface is as clear from any soil, and as smoothly
polished as when it came from the hands of the
artist. However though the hand of man has not
been the immediate instrument in producing these
fractures, the statue bears the marks of many in-
tentional injuries of which it is impossible to
acquit him. The whole face has been completely
picked, and marred by the hammer. The nose,
eyes, and external ears are entirely broken off, not
a feature remains, and, as if the rage of the furious
banditti had made them think that the object of
their vengeance suffered from their blows, they have
punched a deep groove into the upper part of the
face as if wishing to penetrate to the brain, uncover
the marrow, and sever the cords of life at their
origin. The flaps of the head-dress fall down upon
the breast on each side; that on the right has suf-
fered much from the same malignant violence j
that on the left is more entire, and has been curi-
ously and elegantly wrought. There are tablets
of well cut hieroglyphics down the back, and on
each arm, which are quite entire, and serve to
identify this enormous statue with the hero whose
achievements are sculptured along the wall. Thus
this noble image of that illustrious conqueror,
though formed of the granite rock, lies a most piti-
able sight, a broken and disentegrated mass of ruin;
exciting the astonishment, the indignation, and
sympathy of the spectator, and wringing from his
VOL. II. D
34 THEBES.
heart those execrations against the destroyer that
would be uttered by a native on beholding the
murdered and mangled body of the hero himself.
The pedestal, true to its charge, has also been
rent by the fall of the statue; and stone wedges
have been driven into it in several places, with a
view of detaching the splintered fragments: the
sides of it are adorned with hieroglyphics which
are almost entirely covered up with sand collected
round its base, so that it is impossible to tell whether
they are the same with those on the back and arms
of the statue, or whether they are different. How-
ever those which remain on the statue itself suffici-
ently evince that it was erected to the hero whose
battles are sculptured along the walls of the temple,
and in my opinion that hero was Osymandyas j and
as this statue is quite preeminent and alone, the
statues at the other temples being generally in pairs
of nearly equal magnitude, most probably this tem-
ple was the tomb of the hero whom it represents,
there being no other obvious reason for placing it
here within the precincts of the building the smallest
of all the colossal structures that adorned this ve-
nerable plain.
The floor within, and the area all round the
building were spread over with a thin covering of
sand, which could easily be cleared away, and the
surface of the solid rock perfectly swept; even the
pedestal of the statue itself might yield its place
THEBES. 35
to enable the curious searcher after the hidden an-
tiquities of Egypt, to ascertain the existence of
one orinore subterraneous caverns in the rock. The
expence would be so trifling, and the satisfaction
so great, whether success or disappointment result
from the labour, that it is quite astonishing that
some traveller of fortune and enterprize has not
Jong since put the matter beyond a doubt.
The area round the temple is bounded by num-
bers of small niches, like seats, in a wall of sun-
4ried brick. On the west side many of them are
.quite entire, and some of them have been used as
sepulchres, which does not appear to have been
their original intention. On the north and south,
Ihe greater part of them are destroyed; but behind
them all round we have a display of the most cu-
rious brick ruins in Thebes. They consist of a
nurpber of long parallel vaults adjoining each other,
they are built of unburnt brick upon the solid rock
and rounded in the top in a regular masonic arch.
The rows of brick forming the arches are double,
andin soine cases triple, all laid in the form of the
ai;ch; so that there may be said to be two or three
arches, the one surmounting the other, as if to give
greater security to the whole. Those on the west, or
epd of the temple, rim from north to south, they are
quite touching each other, as if a common side wall
served every two of them at the base, but each is
arched in separately for itself. They are about ten
d 2
36 THEBES.
feet wide, and the remains of fourteen of them
along side of each other are still visible running in
this direction, and taking them continuedly from end
to end they are between six and eight hundred feet
long. Those on the sides of the temple run from
east to west, and on the north side they are ten in
number, and eight on the south continuing thus
running from east to west for about half the length
of the temple on each side, when they again
open from north to south. The whole space has
been surrounded with a brick wall, and there are
no traces of any houses within its precincts, ex-
cept these long dark tunnels are to be considered
as such; and if shut up at each end by the wall by
which they were surrounded, should they commu-
nicate with each other, the unfortunate individual
might wander on in Cimmerian darkness, groping in
the labyrinth, ages of hopeless end, without ever
finding his way back to the cheering light of the
sun.
I cannot pretend to state the purpose for which
these tunnels or vaults were constructed; they re-
semble extremely the shafts or corridors cut in the
rock which have been called the tombs of the kings j
but they have no chambers like them* At present
some of them are open throughout the whole of
their length, and are lighted by the apertures which
the lapse of time, and the encroachments of human
violence, have made in the roof} but under foot
THEBES. 37
they are at least half filled up with earth and rub-
bish, which in many places have been heaped over
dead bodies that have been deposited there at dif-
ferent times. If these dismal contents were cleared
away, and the tunnels laid open from end to end,
the purpose for which they were constructed might
then be apparent. There is nothing like them in
any part of Thebes, or in Egypt, excepting the
excavations in the rock of Beban el Melook, and
if these were admitted to be the habitations of the
kings of the Troglodita^, the others might be re-
garded as the mansions of their principal subjects,
or as the first houses which the inhabitants con-
structed for their abodes after leaving their gloomy
caverns in the rock; the arches being made double
or treble in order to exclude more effectually the
heat of the sun; but these structures are modern.
We now took our leave of this interesting spot,
and proceeded southward along the edge of the
rocky flat. Almost immediately after leaving the
temple we passed on our left many fragments of
statues of highly crystallized quartzy sandstone,
which marked the site of an ancient edifice, whose
substructions are now lying buried under the earth;
which the successive inundations of the Nile have
accumulated over them. This was probably the
predecessor of the temple which we have just de-
scribed. On the right a little farther on, we came
to three sides of a large square cut in the rock,
38 THEBES.
and fronting the east; it is perforated witli niany
doors on each side, that lead into as many houses
or tombs of the ancient inhabitants of the soil. At
present they are nearly blown full of sand, and as
far as I know have never been fully examined. Pro-
ceeding a little farther in the same direction,, we
came opposite to two ancient statues standing oil
our left considerably advanced in the cultivated
plain. When we visited this field in November,
they were inaccessible from the depth of the water in
the canal that runs all the way round the plain in
front of the rock, and which was probably formed
for bringing water to the vicinity of the village
whether below or above ground in this rocky emi-
nence. The water had not yet entirely disappeared
from its ancient bed; but had sufficiently subsided
so as to leave the road easily practicable to the
statues. Rejoiced at the sight, we turned immedi-
ately from otir route, and having passed the canal,
held our way over a circular heap of ruins, then
along an avenue strewed with fragments of broken
statues, bounded by a field of flowery addess on
each hand, and in about five minutes reached the
base of these noble and ancient inhabitants of
Thebes. We approached them with a heartfelt
pleasure and veneration, feeling that in being there
we had accomplished an object worthy of our toil,
and regarded the moment that brought us to the foot
of Memnon as one of the most gratifying in the
THEBES. 39
whole course of our Egyptian tour. Standing by
its side, with our hands upon the pedestal, and
looking up to the disintegrated frame of this mo-
numental colossus that for ages had been the won-
der of the world, the theme of the philosopher, the
poet, and historian, every scar upon its surface
deepened our interest in its fate, our enthusiasm
grew more intense as we continued to look on, and
we felt for the stony Memnon almost as we should
have done for Memnon himself; our joy would
have been complete if history could have told us
the tale of this eventful plain since the time that
the statue of Memnon had become an inhabitant
of the soil.
These two statues are nearly equal in size, they
are about fifty-two feet high, and forty feet asunder j
the throne on which they rest is thirty feet long,
eighteen feet broad, and between seven and eight
feet high. They look to the east, are on a line
with each other, and apparently directly opposite
to the temple of Luxor. If there be any difference
in size, the one on the south is the smaller of the
two. It appears to be of one entire stone. The
face, arms, and front of the body are greatly dis-
integrated from the effects of human violence.
Not a lineament of the countenance remains. The
back seat and pedestal are very entire. The head-
dress is beautifully wrought, as also the shoulders,
which remain uninjured. The massy hair projects
40 THEBES
from behind the ears like that of the sphinx, and it
seems like Jove, as if it would bow its head, and
welcome you to Thebes. There is a row of hiero-
glyphics down the back, but no inscription or hiero-
glyphics on the pedestal The sides of the throne
are highly ornamented with the elegant device of
two bearded figures tying the stem of the flexible
lotus round the ligula. The statue is in a sitting
posture, with the hands resting upon the knees.
On the outside of each of the legs there is a
small statue, with a spiked crown on its head, and
the arms down by its side. It stands up in front
of the pedestal, and reaches a little above the calf
of the leg, nearly to the knee. The legs of the
statue are divided, and between the two feet there
is another small statue that reaches nearly to the
calf of the leg.
The northernmost of the two statues, which
appears to be that of the vocal Memnon, is in the
same posture with a similar figure between the feet,
and on each side of the legs. It has been broken
over above the haunches, which was reported to
Strabo to have been the effect of an earthquake.
The head, in his time with the disrupted half of
the statue, was lying beside it on the ground.
The other half was sitting in its original position,
which it still retains. The part that had been
broken off is now carried away. The sitting and
remaining part has now got another, though I
believe few people will think it a better half, built
upon it in regular courses of common cut sandstone.
Four courses form the body and part of the neck,
and one forms the head and the remaining part of
the neck. It is entirely fashioned like the upper
part of the other statue, with tablets of hierogly-
phics, with the goose and egg over the back
between them. The carved drapery on the arm
has not been attempted, nor is the stone susceptible
of such elegant workmanship as that which adorns
the shoulder of its more fortunate neighbour.
Upon that part of the ancient statue which still
remains, namely, upon the side of the throne, the
ornament of the two bearded figures tying the
lotus round the stalk of the ligiila, with the ac-
companying hieroglyphics, are as fresh apd dis-
tinct as on the other. Both the statues are attired
in the same drapery, which is that of a male, and
as far as we could judge, the drapery on both has
been the same.
But what characterizes this as the statue of vocal
celebrity are the numerous inscriptions both in
Greek and Latin, in verse and prose, with which
the throne, legs, thighs, and body of it are covered;
all of them attesting that the writers thereof had
heard the heavenly voice of Memnon, at the first
hour or before the second. Feeble indeed at the
first, but afterwards becoming strong and powerful,
like a trumpet. We searched with eagerness for the
4$ THEBES.
name of the illustrious geographer quoted above,
but if ever it was there it is now among the many
illegibles, that no human eye can decipher. Julia
Bomilla, Cecilia Treboulla, Pulitha Balbima, and
many others, attest that they heard the voice of
the Memnon, when along with the Emperor
Hadrian, and his Royal Consort Sabina, whom they
seem to have accompanied in his tour throughout
the country. One person writes, I hear (Audio)
the Memnon, and another person, I heard the
Memnon sitting in Thebes, opposite to Diospolis;
implying as if that were more particularly the
name of the western part of the district, now called
Thebes and Diospolis that of the eastern.
Resolved to try our fortune, and to give the
Memnon an opportunity of being equally vocal to
us as he had been to other travellers, Lord Corry
and myself set out one morning at peep of dawn,
and arrived at the foot of the statue about half an
hour before sun rise. We remained till he was an
hour above the horizon, and though the god of
day shone out as bright and cloudless as ever he
did on the son of Tithoneus; no grateful salutation
of welcome was echoed in return, all was still and
silent as the grave. The voice had departed from
Memnon, and the vivifying ray touched the mute
and monumental statue in vain. The report of his
former vocality, however, still prevails in the country,
and the Arabs call it Salamat, or the statue that
THEBES. 43
bids good morning. The two statues they also
call Shamy and Damy.
The material of the statues is a quartzy sand-
stone, highly crystalized, with a considerable tinge
of iron. The stone gives a metallic ring when
struck. It is difficultly sectile, but more so in
some places than in others, according as the grain
of the stone is more or less compact. It cannot be
called a spotted stone, that appellation may apply
to the statues of granite, more especially those of
large-grained granite, such as the one that I have
described, as being the statue of Osymandyas, and
also to the greater part of the statues in the eastern
Thebes. The two statues under consideration
have been remarkably well polished, and the smooth
glossy surface still remains on them in many places;
and but for the horrid hand of man might have re-
mained throughout. Considering the countless ages
that they have pressed their yielding bed, it can-
not seem surprising that the pedestal on which they
rest, should have sunk considerably in the earth,
but this subsidence is more apparent than real, for
the annual inundation of the Nile contributes to
accumulate the mud around their base. Hence
one inscription on the south side of the northern
statue, was only seen by digging away the earth
from its base.
These two venerable statues evidently stand the
one on the one side of an avenue, and the other
44 THEBES,
on the other, and have been followed by a series of
other colossal statues, the upper half of one of
which still presses the soil, guarding the approach
to a temple whose ruins lay buried on the edge of
the cultivated ground, till Mr, Salt uncovered them,
and exposed a number of statues and sphinxes,
with the lion's head on the body of the human
female, and traced the foundation and columns of
a magnificent temple to which they belonged.
After which Mr. Belzoni struck the ground with
his ithurial spear, and brought up a handsome
statue of black granite, which is now in the court-
yard of the British Museum; but which it is
hoped will soon find a shelter in the interior. If
the statue that we have just described be the Mem^
non of Strabo and Pausanias, of which I think
there can be little doubt, this ruined temple ought
properly to be called the Memnomium, and not
that formerly described, where is the large broken
statue of Osymandyas.
Leaving these ancient and interesting ruins, we
crossed the canal, regained the road on the edge of
the rocky flat, turned to the left, and after riding
about a quarter of a mile, arrived at Medina
Habou, as it has been lately written by Mr. Burck-
hardt? Medinat Abou as formerly written by Pococke,
which has evidently been the largest village on this
sjide of the river, though now totally deserted, and
without an inhabitant; and it is the only one in
PHEBES. *5
the whole district which retains in its modern
appellation, a relic of the name of the ancient city
of which its magnificent ruins formed a part. My
knowledge of Arabic does not enable me to statehow
the name ought to be written; but had I not seen
Mr. Burckhardt's way of spelling it, I should cer-
tainly have written it as Mr. Pococke did. For in
the country it is generally pronounced as if it were
written Medina Tabou, and in my own humble opi-
nion, both ways of writing and pronouncing it
have grown out of the ancient name of the city,
Thabou or Thebes.
As we approached the temple a long broad ter-
race, rivetted by a stone wall, lined the right of
our course on to the gateway, which conducted us
into a large court, inclosed by a stone wall on each
hand, and crowded with stones in front of a large
propylon. The propylon has but little sculpture
or hieroglyphics, and has been built out of the ruins
of a former edifice, for many of the stones in the
centre of the wall are covered with deeply-cut
hieroglyphics. Passing through this we came to
another and smaller propylon, from which we pass-
ed into a low square court, in the middle of which
had been erected a Christian church; many of the
columns of which are still standing. Proceeding
forward we came into the principal part of the
temple, which is adorned with a number of columns,
in an open court, with a number of side chambers,
46
THEBES.
and in the middle an insulated and sacred apart-
,ment, open at both ends, and probably used for
exhibiting the idols, and idolatrous rites of the
Pagan devotion. The novitiate appears to have
entered at the one door, and to have passed out at
the other, while the veils of the mystical house ex-
cluded the eyes of the profane, who were left with-
out to gaze upon the pictured walls, and to learn
•their religion from processions and licentious exhi-
bitions. Beyond this chamber *are two other apart-
ments, occupying the middle of the building with
several side chambers. All of them covered with
•sculpture and hieroglyphics, and painted in various
colours, some of which are still remarkably vivid.
The only representation of any consequence .has
*been mentioned by Mr. Hamilton. It is on the
tnorth side of this insulated chamber, and exhibits a
^person hoeing with the sacred hoe in presence of
Osiris. The picture is so far of importance as it
shows us the use of this, awkward instrument, which
has-been called the sacred Alpha, the sacred plough,
and which we see here to be the ancient hoe. It is
the common instrument represented in the right
hand of statues, and held upon the Jeft breast, with
ihe string of the bag for holding the seed, which
Jiangs over the left shoulder. The flail for thresh-
ing the grain is.held in the left hand up to the right
shoulder. The whole device iprobably intimating,
ihat the cultivation of ithe earth is the natural and
THEBES. 47
proper employment of man ; being the best and the
only means of supplying his wants, and that the
Deity himself condescends to behold the operation
with a favorable eye.
This temple is comparatively small, and of in-
ferior consideration. The insulated chamber, and
parts immediately adjoining, have a more ancient
appearance than any of the other buildings in Me-
dina Thabou. The immense propylon, which be-
speaks a grandeur and consequence that but ill cor-
respond with the temple to which it is attached,
is evidently of a more modern date. On the north
side of the temple there is a tank for containing
water, and which has been surrounded with statues
of lion-headed Isis. Attached to this temple on the
south, are the remains of what has been called a
stately palace: though, I confess, I am more dis-
posed to consider them as a series of chambers built
over the gateway leading to the grand temple. The
original and regular entrance to which passes un-
derhand through the middle of it; an inconvenience
to which a palace was not likely rto be subjected.
At the time when we visited Medina Thabou, this
passage was completely blocked up with rubbish,
and masses of unburnt brick, and there was no en-
trance to the chambers in the tower above the gate-
Way, but through the court of the temple on the
north side, already described. The tower, or pa-
lace, whichsoever it is called, is covered with sculp-
48
THEBES.
ture and hieroglyphics within and without. It is
three stories high, and has two rooms in each story;
but they are of small dimensions, and the upper ones
are considerably injured: I consider it of Roman
architecture.
Proceeding about 350 feet in a direct line to the
west of this gateway, over heaps of sand and houses
of unburnt brick, we came to the propylon of the
grand temple of Medina Thabou. The propylon
is about 175 feet long, the temple is about 507 feet
long, and the cella is about 148 feet broad without
the walls. The front of the temple is much incum-
bered by houses of sun-dried brick, which have been
overturned, and built successively on the top of
each 6ther, according as war or peace prevailed in
the country. All of them of course have been
erected since the downfall of paganism, when the
temple ceased to be frequented by the worshippers
of the gods of the Egyptians. The accumulation
of rubbish is, indeed, so great, that but a small part
of even the most colossal figures can be seen. Over
the door is the usual ornament of the globe, sur-
mounted with the serpent and wings, with a figure
of Osiris seated on each side of it, presented with
offerings. A little farther on we perceive the sculp-
tured figures of the principal hero, received both by
Isis and the hawk-headed deity, who presents him
with the sacred Tau, as a proof of their taking him
under their protection.
'£
of

^¥\;
WnllU

una Mis o m kwt <»i' ->i'v :K niK ii., it, ir.o w
THEBES. 49
Passing northward along the front of the pro-
pylon, we perceive a distinguished personage of gi-
gantic size, with his right arm raised above his
head, and his hand holding a hatchet, which he is
drawing for the infliction of a tremendous blow.
The sacred bird hovers above the blade, and his
left hand is extended as if grasping the hairy head
of the unfortunate victims, such as we have de-
scribed on the temple at Phiioe; but here the rub-
bish interposes, and covers the remainder from our
sight} and where the rubbish is wanting, the ham-
mers of the barbarians have effaced the rest.
Turning the end of the propylon we proceeded
to view the northern wall of the temple. Here our
eyes were speedily arrested by the representation
of another battle scene, or rather a series of battles,
that cover the whole outside of this northern wall.
The work of the sculptor commences from the first
propylon; but the accumulation of rubbish pre-
vents us from seeing any thing more than the head
of the hero, with the Ethiopian hawk hovering
above it, his tablets of hieroglyphics, and his prin-
cipal weapons of war, his bow and quiver.
Having passed the projecting end of the second
propylon, we come to the surrender and punish-
ment of the unsuccessful combatants, who are
marched on in a miserable plight, with their hands
tied behind their backs, and what is still more pain-
ful, some of them with their hands tied over their
VOL. II. E
&0 THEBES.
heads, and presented by the hero to Osiris, the god
of his country, who graciously extends his sceptre
towards him in approval of his gallant achievements
in thus subduing his enemies, and bringing them
bound to the footstool of his throne.
We come next to the representation of a sea or
river fight, apparently to repel an invasion. The
principal hero, with his four sons before him, and
standard bearer behind hhn, are on land. The
four sons are of smaller size, and considerably in
advance of the father. They are standing side by
side with their bows bent,, and twanging their ar-
rows to destroy and repel the invaders. The hero
himself of gigantic size, and vigorous proportion,
stands behind them. His bow is bent in his hand,
the shaft is drawn home, and ready to wing its de-
structive flight with the arrows of his sons. By his
two tablets of hieroglyphics we discover him to be
same hero whom we had noticed on the front of the
propylon, receiving the sacred Tau from Isis and
the hawk-headed deity. Ten of his slaughtered foes
are already under his feet, and one of his soldiers
is pulling another from the scene of carnage to
place him in the same humiliating position. Those
were not the times when enmity ceased with the
life, or the resistance of the antagonist—but when
the victor glutted his vengeance on the bodies of
the dead. If Christianity has not yet made wars
to cease, it has, at least, humanized the hearts of
THEBES. 51
the combatants, and the dead and the conquered
remain uninsulted. The Egyptians obviously have
the advantage in the contest, though the affair is
not yet finally decided. A boat of the enemy has
been capsized, and the sailors, being thrown into
the water, are endeavouring to save themselves by
climbing up the sides of the other vessels. Their
friends seem too much engaged to assist them, and
many are lying half dead with fatigue, yet the rest
maintain the contest, shooting their arrows from
the hulls and from the rigging, and coming into
close quarters, grapple with the enemy, and when
boarded, obstinately maintain their ground, and die
sword in hand. The Egyptian boats are filled with
prisoners, and every where they prevail. And thus
may it fare with every king, and with every people,
who defend their country against the inroads of a
foreign foe. The invaders are dressed in a tiara,
or a kind of round bonnet with feathers; some of
them have armour on the body. They are armed
with bows and swords and round shields. The de-
fendants have a close fitting cap, with a bandage
round the waist, and are mostly naked. The pri-
soners, manacled and tied together, are led up to
punishment with ropes about their necks, as already
described. On the wall above are numerous hiero-
glyphics, in which the figure of the bull is frequently
repeated, and many devices in which a priest with
e 2
52 THEBES.
uplifted hands is preferring his devotions to the sun
in behalf of his fighting countrymen.
To this fight succeeds one of another description,
the hunting of the lion. The scene is represented
at the close of the chace. One lion, shot through
by the arrows of his pursuers, is rolling on the
ground under the horses' feet; the other with his
back stuck full of darts, hit but not subdued, is
running and gaping tremendously; and just upon
the point of entering a thicket where the diversion
seems to cease. The hero has turned round in
his chariot to aim a spear at another enemy in his
rear, but the downfal of the wall prevents us from
seeing the victim of his blow. The remains of a
similar thicket are perceptible, and probably their
was another lion. A body of troops are marching
below led on by a man with a drawn sword in his
hand. The object of their attack is not quite
obvious although the wall here is less encumbered
with rubbish than at any other part.
I am not quite satisfied that the above was in-
tended to represent a hunting scene, though I have
called it such in conformity with preceding tra-
vellers. No person appears in pursuit of the lion,
and a hunt of the kind never took place in Egypt.
The lion is evidently running past the reeds, or it
may be a field of grain, certainly it is not a wood,
and directing his march towards a hero at a con-
THEBES.
siderable distance. We are informed that it was
the custom of an ancient Egyptian warrior to carry
a lion or lions along with him to battle, and to let
them loose upon the enemy when the fight com-
menced; and I am disposed to consider this exhi-
bition as representing a battle scene in which the
lion was engaged. The hero of the field has evi-
dently been occupied in another part of the fight,
and lets loose the lion to keep this enemy at bay
till he should have finished the work he had on
hand. The monarch of the beasts has, in the
present instance, been unsuccessful, and retires
wounded leaving a companion dead, and his enemy
in possession of the field, but still engaged in
combat, the issue of which is not seen on account
of the ruin of the wall. For the same reason we
cannot tell what effect the charge of the lions
produced either in slaughtering or repelling the
the foe. Did the grateful remembrance of the use
which the Egyptian hero made of the lion in fight-
ing give origin to the sphinx of that country, a man's
head on the body of a lion? On the other side of
the breach in the wall, which is but trifling, the
battle scene is still continued, and is so all the way
on to the end of the wall which is so built up with
houses of unburnt brick that it is quite impossible
to give an adequate description of it. Two dif-
ferent heroes appear on the walls rearing part of
their gigantic forms above the rubbish; each of
54 THEBES.
them has different tablets of hieroglyphics, and the
one has four feathers in his horses' heads and the
other only two. One or two towers also appear
with arched, or rather wavy tops, as at the Mem-
nonium. The whole terminated by a scene of
repose which probably is for the punishment of the
vanquished, or the partition of the spoil among
the victors. It is no great compliment to the
antiquaries either of France or England that the
whole of this ancient specimen of historical sculp-
ture has not long since been before the public.
A smaller sum than what is often paid for one
painting would be sufficient to bring casts, and
drawings of the whole of the antiquities in Egypt
to this country. He is to be envied who possesses
the means, pitied if he does not employ them: and
above all praise is the man who shall enrich his
country with such a treasure of ancient art.
The end of the cella is completely built up, and
the rubbish rises so high that a person can step
from it on to the top of the building with the
greatest facility. Passing round to the southern
side of the temple, we find it rather more encum-
oered with rubbish than the northern. In dif-
ferent places near the top of the walls small por-
tions of the sculpture appear^ which show that this
side of the temple is covered with the representa-
tion of battle scenes as well as the other. In the
staircase fo* ascending to the top of the building
THEBES.
55
in the end of the second propylon, the hero cha-
racterised by the same tablet of hieroglyphics
presents an offering to Osiris, which tends to prove
that it is the achievements of the same hero, which
are sculptured round the whole of the temple.
Having compassed the exterior of the temple,
we proceeded to take a view of the interior. The
sides of the gateway are highly ornamented with
the sacred Tau, supporting by two hands the
sceptre of Osiris, one on each side, and continued
in succession throughout the whole of its length.
The tablet of hieroglyphics, guarded by mitred
.serpents, constitutes another row, and thus through-
out the whole passage is ornamented in the most
beautiful manner. It leads into the dromos which
is a court of about 120 feet square. It is much
blown up with sand, and contains the remains of
many brick houses. On each side of it there is
a row of nine columns forming a piazza all the
way to the second propylon. The columns, the
ceiling, and walls behind them, all round the court,
are covered with sculpture and hieroglyphics, ex-
hibiting this distinguished personage presenting
offerings to the gods in grateful return for the
success with which they have been pleased to
crown his efforts, who in return present him with
the sacred Tau, as a pledge that their favor and
protection shall continue with him. One very large
tablet of hieroglyphics, indeed the largest that I
56
THEBES.
saw in Egypt, is sculptured on the right side of the
dooivway within the dromos. Birds and implements
of art are the prevailing characters.
Passing from the dromos through the magnificent
door-way of the second propylon, we entered the
pronaos which is an open court with a piazza all
round; it has eight columns on the east, eight
on the west, and five on each side. In the centre
of the court are the remains of a Christian
church. The columns all round are highly orna-
mented with gods, goddesses, heroes, and hiero-
glyphics. They have been painted in various
colors, some of which glow with all the warmth
of originals. The ceiling is azure, studded with
brilliant stars. The south and part of the east
wall is covered with a battle scene, and the cruel
punishment of the vanquished by cutting off their
hands and maiming their bodies, which is performed
in presence of the chief, who has seated himself
in repose on the back part of his chariot, to wit-
ness the execution of his horrid sentence. Three
heaps of amputated hands are counted over before
him, and an equal number of scribes with scrolls
in their hands are minuting down the account. As
many rows of prisoners stand behind to undergo
a similar mutilation in their turn; their hands are
tied behind their backs, or lashed over their heads,
or thrust into eye-shaped manacles, some of their
heads are twisted completely round, some of them
THEBES.
57
are turned back to back, and their arms lashed
together round the elbows; and thus they are
marched up to punishment. Whenever a hand is
disengaged it is extended to implore mercy, but
it implores in vain. The north side of the piazza,
and the remaining part of the east side, are covered
with scenes of religious ceremonies and processions.
The ibis-headed and hawk-headed deities are
pouring over the hero, streams of the sacred Tau,
and sceptres of Osiris, thereby intimating that the
powers both of earth and air conspire to honor,
and take him under their special, and divine pro-
tection. He is sccompanied by his two tablets of
hieroglyphics, and the sacred bird with outspread
wings hovers over his head. He afterwards assists at
a number of ceremonies in honor of the god Apis,
who is painted with a magnificent head-dress, and
a scarlet collar round his neck, in all of which he
is accompanied by his tablets of hieroglyphics and
attended by the hawk-headed, and ibis-headed
deity, and sometimes with his banner born behind
him. In one compartment the hero is seated
with the scourge and crook in his hand, two
females are standing behind him, each covered
with wings round the waist, and followed by a
banner and feathered sceptre. Two sphinxes are
reposing beside him, and his two tablets of hiero-
glyphics with the feathered sceptre, are spread out
before him. Near to him is a person with a book
58 THEBES.
or scroll in his hand, and below him a procession
of boats with human heads, hawks' heads, and
rams' heads sculptured on the prow and stern.
They are borne along in some places by twenty men
dressed in long robes, and feathers in their heads.
In the boats are arks or chests, and figures of the
deity in honor of whom the procession is held, and
who is perfumed with incense, or presented with
offerings in different stages of its progress. Mendes
is represented sometimes with five vases resembling
in shape the dwarf Cyprus or cedar tree behind him,
sometimes with only two having a large stem of the
flowering lotus between them. A priest closes the
procession near to whom stands a female habited
in various attire. The lower part of the dress is
red, the body dress yellow, and a blue handker-
chief round the neck. A little in advance of this
is an immense stem of the flowering lotus, which
the hero is cutting with a knife, and near to him
a little man is officiating at the altar with a number
of blue birds hovering over him. Another person
bears a torch in one hand, and raises the other in
an attitude of prayer; he also is accompanied with
blue birds which a third person is provoking, and
they seem highly enraged and ready to pounce
upon him. Behind whom there is a number of
men bearing offerings and sceptres of Osiris, de-
corated with ribbands, and a long-tailed fox or
wolf over each of their heads. Three hawks are
THEBES. 59
borne aloft on the end of three long poles, and a
man is toiling away towards the altar with a bull
on his shoulder. There is apparantly much dumb
.show or pantomime between the hero, the hawk-
headed and wolf-headed deity, which it is impossible
to explain or describe.
There are two rows of columns on the west end
of the court immediately in front of the cella,
which are ornamented with painted and sculptured
figures and offerings, as already described. In one
device Osiris is on his knees at the foot of a throne
with the scourge and crook in his hands; on the
pedestal of which the hawk-headed and ibis-headed
deity are represented tying the flowering lotus
round the stem of the augurial Jigula or tonguelet.
We have now come round to the south wall of the
piazza or pronaos, where we see an immense tablet
of hieroglyphics to which the hero is pointing with
his sceptre in his right hand, as if it contained the
speech which he is addressing to the crowd en*
gaged in bearing along a boat with a hawk on board,
AS the honoured deity, behind which in one part
he is bearing a vase and sceptre, in another he is
attired in a leopard's skin, perfumed with incense,
and honored as a god. Here we come to the cruel
scene of mutilating the unfortunate captives with
which wre began the description of the pronaos.
The notice that I have taken of the numerous
and interesting subjects which adorn the walls of
frO THEBES.
this part of the temple is extremely general, and is
a very short epitome of what I transcribed on the
spot. To describe them minutely, with the reflec-
tion and interpretations that would naturally be
suggested on a full consideration of the subject,
would require a volume, and here we can only af!
ford to bestow upon it a few hurried pages.
The cella was completely filled up with sand,
and could not be entered. Much remains to be
discovered about this temple, and a rich harvest of
Egyptian antiquities may be reaped by the traveller
who shall clear away the sand and rubbish from
these venerable ruins. This is the most perfect,
and apparently the most modern, of all the temples
m Thebes, The space occupied by the ruins at-
tached to it is about a mile in circumference, in
which the inhabitants of the adjoining village are
constantly searching for beads and jewels. We are
informed by Diodorus Siculus, that the riches of
Egypt were so great, that three hundred talents of
gold, and two thousand three hundred talents of
silver, were found in the ashes and rubbish of her
towns. The mine is not exhausted yet.
At the south corner of the ruins, but without
the precincts of the village, there is a small temple,
which consists of three small rooms ornamented in
the same manner as the other temples j but it does
not appear to have been finished, and is now em-
ployed to accommodate a small herd of goats, the
THEBES. 61
worthy successors of Mendes to whom it probably
was dedicated.
To the south east of this ruined temple stands
the pleasant village of El Barat the present suc-
cessor of Medina Thabou. It is situated on the
east side of one of the oldest and most remarkable
monuments in Thebes: a strong embankment of
earth of about five hundred feet thick, and from
thirty to forty feet high, enclosing a square space
of about two thousand feet a side. The enclosed
field is at present cultivated; the bank itself is cover-
ed with sand to a considerable depth, and part of
it is used as a burying-ground by the inhabitants
of the village. The villagers are a superior class
of people to the inhabitants of Gornou to whom
they are by no means friendly disposed. They
seem remarkably hospitable to strangers, I never vi-
sited them, but they silenced and beat off their
dogs, the principal sheikhs came out to welcome
me, and offered me bread and milk, and boiled
eggs, and a pipe of tobacco. Monsieur Repaud,
supposes the above-mentioned inclosure to have
been used as a Champs de Mars for the military
exercise. He may have been led to the supposi-
tion from some slight similarity which it bears to
the Champs de Mars at Paris. However from the
great strength and thickness of the bank, I am
disposed to regard it as an ancient reservoir made
for containing water for the purposes of agricul-
62
THEBES.
ture, and the supply of the city when the Nile was
low or the inundations defective. A deep ravine
like a canal, with similar embankments, that runs
along the west side of it, seems more in favor of
this supposition than that of citizen Ripaud.
Travelling southward from the ruined temple of
Medina Thabou, and a small way into the desert,
we arrived at a mean looking house, built of dry
stone, covered with turf and faggots, surrounded
by a dry stone wall and secured with a locked gate
to exclude the idle and unconcerned. We have
seen the temples of pagan idolatry. This is the
house of the Christians' God. Near to it there
was a deep well with a bucket and string lying be-
side it to draw water for the few, and persecuted
votaries, who resort to this place of Christian wor-
ship. The priest himself, whose humble abode
was between two and three miles distant, was exe-
cuting some repairs on this temple of the living
God. On learning that we were Christians, the
door instantly flew open, and we were cheerfully
admitted into this sanctuary of public prayer. The
floor was covered with mats made of the rind of
the palm-tree, and a reading desk stood on one
side of the apartment. Though dirty and homely
in appearance it had an air of comfort; like the
rose in the wilderness it shone by comparison. The
purposes to which it is devoted atoned for all its de-
fects. The eye of criticism was shut, the soul had
THEBES.
63
found a home, and the tongue of censure was stilled
on beholding the happy countenance of this man
of God, that indicated a heart no stranger to the
feelings of his religion, bounding with joy to meet
a traveller from a foreign land who worshipt the
same God, and acknowledged the same Saviour with
himself- We did not enquire what are the dogmas
or tenets of your sect ?—those warhoops of faction
that sever man from man, and many from their
Maker. We saw his creed in his conduct. Man
was his brother, religion had possession of his
heart, and with five other families on this side the
river he had constructed this mansion for worship-
ing a God, and a Saviour whom they continued to
serve and adore, among the scoffing moslems by
whom they are surrounded, persecuted, and reviled..
He valued his soul above his body, and would die
a martyr sooner than renounce his faith.
Leaving this hallowed spot, which struck a deeper
and more lasting interest into the mind than could
have been awakened by the most splendid temple,
we regained the bed of the ancient canal, at the
end of which we turned a little way into the de-
sert, and came to an ancient temple standing
among the ruins of another village. This temple
has been surrounded with a high wall, and adorned
with a propylon in front, part of which is still
standing, ornamented with sculpture and hiero-
glyphics. The temple itself is used as a sheepfold,
64
THEBES.
and the inside is finely sculptured and ornamented
with figures of Isis and Horus, to whom offerings
are presented, and divine honours paid, as the
principal objects of worship within its walls. The
outside is rough, unpolished, and unsculptured.
It is called southern Dair, in contradistinction to
northern Dair, already mentioned. Near to this,
on the edge of the cultivated ground, adjoining
the rocky flat, there are the remains of a mound
of unburnt brick, which some travellers suppose
to have been part of the wall of ancient Thebes.
But if we are to allow Gornou,. the Memnonium,
and Medina Thabou to have formed part of
ancient Thebes, I should as soon believe that this
heap of bricks formed part of the wall of London.
It appears to me that this brick mound is merely
the remains gf the brick that was collected for the
repair and building of the village, the ruins of
which we now witness around the temple.
The rocky flat here is considerably wider, and a
defile opens up a passage among the mountains,
into which we did not enter; butt were informed
that there is there another Dair and excavations in
the rock. In several other mountain defiles above
Medina Thabou, into which we entered, we found
a number of excavations extremely well executed,
covered with sculpture, and painted in the most
brilliant colours; likewise a number of pits sunk
perpendicularly into the rock, like that which has
THEBES. 65
improperly been called the Well in the Tomb, dis-
covered by Mr. Belzoni, all of which have been
used as burying places, and many of them still
contain handsome mummy cases, made of wood
and stone, beautifully painted in a variety of colours,
and covered with curious devices. The whole of
these pits have generally been opened, yet on
lifting up the lid of the mummy case, the body is
found lying wrapt up in its last clothes, apparently
untouched. The stone mummy case, which the
Earl of Belmore presented to the British Museum,
was found in one of these pits.
High up in the front, along the base of the
mountain and over the rocky flat, all the way from
MedinaThabou, there are innumerable excavations,
many of them large and beautifully formed, painted,
and sculptured with many curious devices, illustra-
tive of ancient customs. In one place above Me-
dina Thabou, the doors into these excavations are
so numerous and so contiguous, that they resemble
a row of houses in a village. They have a long
piazza in front, and a large apartment within; and
long shaft running back into the rock. They rise
in tiers above each other, according to the different
elevations of the mountain. They have evidently
been dwelling-houses, and, from the shady piazza
in front, the spectator enjoys the most delightful
view that can possibly be obtained of the plain of
Thebes.
vol. ir. -
66
THEBES.
Speaking generally, both of the excavations in
the front of the rock, and those along the rocky
flat, it may be said that most of them consist of
several chambers; commonly as two or three, in one
of which there is a sarcophagus, or a collection of
human bones, the others unincumbered with any
thing but sand or stones. In some instances a long
shaft runs back from the first chamber, with small
horizontal excavations in the side, and at the end
a perpendicular niche, shaped like a mummy case,
which it is capable of containing in the erect pos-
ture, and for which it probably was constructed;
as we are informed that the ancient Egyptians kept
their dead in the house, and removed them one by one
as it became necessary to make way for another; and
if at any time embarrassed in circumstances, they
laid them in pledge as their most valuable possession,
which they would certainly not fail to redeem as
soon as they had it in their power.
Continuing our route northward, by the base of
the mountain, we came to another temple of Isis,
situated in a most desert spot, on the west of, and
nearly opposite to the Memnonium, but concealed
from its view by a large high mound, which rises
up in the rocky flat between them. It is called
Pair el Medina, as if it had been more connected
with Medina Thabou, than with any of the other
temples*, during the time that Christianity was the
prevailing religion in the country. It is surroundedv

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7'he four Fi//;:/rw /ha/< art. nsucMv foiuut in /'//?
^AitmunA' Cast alton/ with the.* fteo/v.
THEBES. 0/
by a high w^li of unburnt brick, and its name
intimates that it once was the seat of a holy bro-
therhood. It consists of a small propylon, a pro-
naos with a column on each hand. The front of
the temple has two columns on each side of the
gateway, half built up: and three small chambers
which enter separately from the pronaos. The
whole piazza, chambers, and front of the temple,
are covered with sculpture and hieroglyphics, which
are cut in a most superior style, greatly surpassing
that of any temple in Thebes, and resemble more
the hieroglyphics in the tombs, which are probably
of a more ancient date than those on the temples.
The subjects are of the most simple description,
and relate chiefly to the worship of Isis, who is
represented with the lotus sceptre in her hand, and
honoured with offerings of different kinds. Some-
times she is exhibited with the cow's head and
human body; but most frequently both the head
and body are human. The scarabseus and globe are
the common devices over the door, with a person
kneeling on each side of it. The tablets of hiero-
glyphics contain the scarabseus, and have a strong
resemblance to those at northern Dair. There are
no battle scenes in it, and no processions.
In the southern chamber, among a number of
curious devices, is that of a balance with two scales
depending from it. In the one scale there is a sort
of pot, or urn, or censer, like that which is fre-
f 2
68
THEBES.
quently presented to Isis, sometimes with incense,
and sometimes it contains a vegetable resembling
the stalk of an onion. In the other scale there is
a feather. The hawk-headed deity lays hold of the
rope of the former scale with his hand, as if going
to ascertain which way the trepidations of the ba-
lance shall determine. The wolf-headed deity
grasps the rope of the other scale in the samp man-
ner, and probably for the same purpose. Directly
above each of them a human head is placed upon
the beam, about a third of its length from the end
of the balance, and two thirds from the centre of
motion. On the centre of motion a monkey sits
squatted, with his hands upon his knees; thus
seeming to indicate, that if the actions and obla-
tions of the individual under consideration out-
weighed a single feather in the balance, he fell to
the care of the hawk-headed diety, to be conducted
through the air to the regions of bliss; but if, on
the contrary, they were found wanting, and the
balance preponderated to the side of the feather,
the unfortunate being was then seized upon by the
grinning wolf to be carried deep into the lower
parts of the earth, the regions of sorrow and de-
spair. In all such devices the wolf-headed deity is
stationed at the left end of the balance, and the
hawk-headed deity at the right. But there is a
third state, a tertium quid, typified by the monkey,
if the balance should rest in an equipoise; in which
THEBES,
69
the merits and demerits of the deceased are exactly
balanced, so that the being becomes perfectly ef-
fete an object for annihilation, neither of rewards
nor punishment > as the monkey is neither fit for-the
society of men nor beasts. On one side of this
curious group, the ibis-headed deity is represented
with a scroll and pen in his hand, as if entering the
result in the records of the temple, whatever that
may be. On the other side is Horus, characterised
by the lock of hair curling down his neck, and by
wearing the scourge and sceptre of Osiris; showing
that he possessed equally with him the power to
punish and command.
Throughout the chamber are many other mysti-
cal contrivances, as that of a ram with four heads
receiving offerings, and adorned with the globe,
and the sacred bird over head. A wolf placed
upon an altar, with a scourge laid over him, and
hard by a number of people waiting at a tomb,
which is shaped exactly like the sheikhs' tombs of
the present day, the top being turned round in the
form of the dome or arch. We have also the sacred
boat, and the stems of the lotus twined round with
serpents.
In one part there is a curious assemblage of small
figures squatted upon their seats, with their knees
up to their breasts, and their hands raised. There
are two rows of them, and twenty-one in each row,
and each of them has a feather in its head, which
?o
THEBES.
is sometimes that of a dog* a hawk, a hippopotamus,
an ibis, or a wolf, but most frequently it is a hu-
man head. They are presented with the lotus and
other offerings, by a person half kneeling with a
vase, and a bird on his hand. They attend near
the balance, with the sceptre of Osiris in their
hands, indicative of his commission to be there for
the performance of certain special duties. Near the
door there is a curious exhibition of the wolf-head-
ed and hawk-headed deities in half-kneeling pos-
tures, with their fists clenched and threatening each
other, as we frequently see in the tombs of the
kings, in the chamber which contains the sarco-
phagus. The sacred bird, with expanded wings, is
painted along the ceiling of all the three chambers,
and the floors of them all have been torn up in
quest of the treasures of antiquity, supposed to
have been deposited there. At the north-east angle
of the temple there is a small tank for containing
water; and on the south-west of it is the burial
ground of the former Christian possessors, whose
sepulchres the Arabs are now ransacking for anti-
quities, and in which they say that they sometimes
find Greek MSS. rolled up, and stuffed in the
breasts. I have seen part of a Greek MSS. on
papyrus, which was said to have been taken out of
one of these tombs. This beautiful temple is by far
the most entire, and most highly finished, of all the
temples in Thebes.
THEBES.
71
In addition to these temples on the west side of
the river just described, and which are in part
standing, I must mention that there are traces of
many more, and apparently an older race of tem-
ples, whose walls are levelled with the ground, and
the greater part of the materials of which they were
built carried away. Two of these have been al-
ready mentioned on the edge^of the cultivated soil;
one of them near to the Memnonium, the other
behind the two statues of Shamy and Damy, near
Medina Thabou. There is another on the rocky
flat between it and the Memnonium, but nearer to
Medina Thabou. The substructions of it, however,
are far from being of that colossal extent which
characterise the magnificent edifices of these two
places. It has been constructed partly of the stone
of the country, and partly of sand-stones. The
greater part of the latter have been carried away,
and it is probably these wThich we beheld in the
propylons of the Memnonium and Medina Thabou.
We also perceive on the site of this ancient temple
many fragments of colossal statues; some of which
are of the stone of the country, which break with
a kind of splintery fracture; others are of the highly
crystallized quartzy sand-stone, the same with that
of the ancient statue of Memnon. There are also
the remains of another similar temple to the north
of the Memnonium, on the rocky flat with similar
fragments of statues, and 1 have no doubt many
72
THEBES.
more would be found on a more careful examina-
tion of the ground than I had it in my power to
make j for the ancient Egyptians seem to have been
more deeply infected with the mania for building
temples than any other nation in the world.
If it be admitted that Cambyses destroyed the
temples and statues in Thebes, I should consider
these earlier relics as the witnesses of his cruel po-
licy, and that the present magnificent ruins, which
now astonish the traveller, were built after the
Egyptians had recovered from that sore disaster,
and, perhaps, the greater part of them under the
Greek empire. We see the materials of these an-
cient temples in the walls of the present ruins; both
the sculpture and hieroglyphics are deeper and bet-
ter cut, and I should feel disposed to refer these
more ancient edifices to the era of the two statues
of Shamy and Damy. The fragments of the statues
are of the same species of stone, and the workman-
ship extremely similar. The quarry from which
the stone is taken is near at hand. All the other
statues in Thebes, with the exception of the two
above mentioned, are of syenite or the granite of
Assouan, which being at a great distance, were pro*
bably not procured till a later period in the history
of the country.
All over this rocky flat, and in the face of the
mountain in several places, numbers of recesses are
cut in upon the front of an elevation, and carried
THEBES. 73
back so as to form three sides of a square, and af-
ter having obtained a sufficient perpendicular height
in front, numbers of excavations are then made in
the rock, with columns for a piazza running all along
the line at the entrance; then there is a large chamber
for each separate mansion, and a shaft passing back
from it, with a niche at the further extremity for
the reception of a mummy case. The space in
front is levelled and cleared out, and in some cases
where the excavation has descended into the rock,
a square court is formed round the entrance, with
a stair to go down to it. The most conspicuous of
these lodgements, at least to the eye of the newly-
arrived traveller, are in the face of the rock above
Medina Thabou, where there is one line of them
regularly formed, that extends about five or six
hundred yards in length, and its numerous doors
of entrance present exactly the appearance of a vil-
lage. There are many others extending on all sides
in the same rock, both above and below, in groups
and in detached excavations, that look towards the
rising, the meridian, and the setting sun, and are
more or less elevated above the level of the plain,
according as the natural form of the mountain is
suited for the excavation. Many of these settle-
ments occur also along the rocky flat, as that al-
ready mentioned between the Memnonium and
Medina Thabou, bordering the cultivated soil; and
in several places between the Memnonium and
74 THEBES.
Gornou, and below the latter place in the rocky
eminence that extends in a north eastern direction
towards the river. In one of these I counted fifty-
two doors in one line, leading into as many sepa-
rate excavations, each of them sufficient for the ac-
commodation of a family, which would be more
conveniently and comfortably lodged, than in any
of the houses in any of the present villages in
Egypt. In other settlements of the same kind I
counted thirty doors, in others twelve, more or less,
as the conglomerate rock was practicable, or the
tribe or family that formed it was small or nume-
rous. Some of them have two rows of columns in
front, others only one row, and all of them are adorn-
ed with hieroglyphics and sculpture, and mytholo-
gical devices.
It is impossible to view these excavations in their
number, accommodation and extent, without con-
sidering them as the dwelling-places of the first
inhabitants of Thebes; and the taste and style
with which they are formed and decorated, indi-
cate a state of society greatly surpassing what is to
be met with at present in any part of the Turkish
empire; The inhabitants of Gornou still live for
the greater part of the year in these rocky mansions,
and may be regarded as the link that connects the
ancient and modern style of dwelling in Thebes.
They are, however, but humble representatives,
and, though residing in the same apartments, &re as
THEBES* 75
much inferior in apparent comfort to their prede-
cessors, as the character and influence of their
country are to the nations of the world, when com-
pared with the power and grandeur of ancient
Egypt. These subterranean abodes are generally
filled up with sand, and the debris which has fallen
down from the rock; but the modern inhabitants,
on taking possession, are too indolent to clear out
the rocky cave, and to avail themselves of the
whole of the accommodation formed by the ancient
settlers. Instead of this they merely scratch a hole,
by which to crawl in, and clear out a little of the
rubbish from the first chamber, in which they de-
posit their sleeping mats, and any trifling furniture
which they possess, Here they repose during the
night, and retire from the heat of the sun during
the day. All the shaft, and all the excavations,
and inner chambers remain blocked up with the
rubbish and sand that have drifted in from the
surrounding flat. It is no uncommon thing to find
a family residing in the outer chamber, and the
master of it sleeping in the bottom of an ancient
sarcophagus, by way of being in the state bed;
while at the same time the shaft and interior niches
continue to possess the sarcophagi and mummy
cases, filled with the bones and bodies of the for-
mer tenants of the soil, that had been lodged there
between two and three thousand years ago. To
supply in part the accommodation that the whole
76 THEBES.
of this subterraneous abode would afford them, if
restored to its pristine condition, they generally
build near the door a round hollow tower, shaped
like some of the ancient Egyptian borders, of
unburnt brick, or stone plastered over with mud,
with openings in its side, in different places, to serve
for presses, and other conveniences. It is closed
at the top, and shaped like a funnel or open bowl,
from which the camel eats his grass, cut straw,
beans, or other provender. The asses, the goats,
and the sheep take their station near the same place,
and eat their repast off the ground. The mistress
and daughters of the family sit round the door, and
retire into the cell on the approach of a stranger,
who is received by the master of the family, and
sits down in the open air, among the dry sand, or
on a mat, if there happens to be such a luxury at
hand. He is generally presented with bread and
milk, coffee and tobacco. The dogs being in-
trusted with the defence of the settlement, occupy
the heights above, and furiously assail every stran-
ger who ventures to approach. Similar excavations
are continued all round in the rocky flat, and up
the face of the mountain, though of very steep
ascent, and on each side of the road to the valley of
Biban el Melook, and in the openings of the defiles
in the mountains; so that if the whole were exa-
mined and cleared out, I should not be astonished
to hear that it contained accommodation for more
THEBES. 77
than twenty thousand families: and what is more,
I may add, comfortable accommodation, for the
mountain here is without any damp, and the tem-
perature in its centre, is always the same, alike
unaffected by the heat of the day, or the chills of
the night, which even here in the mornings of
December, January, and a part of February, made
us feelingly acknowledge that it was winter. We
saw ice about a quarter of an inch thick, which
was froze in an earthen-ware basin, in the noctur-
nal cold of Thebes, in the end of January. Do-
miciled, however, in his mountain recess, the The-
ban experiences no such changes of climate. He
sits under his elevated piazza, in front of his rocky
cave, and looks from out its shade over this noble
and venerable plain, equally warm and comfortable,
whether the sun, moon, or stars shine upon the
field of vision: alike undisturbed by the smoke
of cities, or the obstructing medium of houses, he
enjoys the contemplation of the scene in the most
absolute repose. The world has been favoured
with a view of subterranean Rome; but a view of
subterranean Thebes, would much more delight
and astonish them. Notwithstanding all that they
have read of its grandeur and magnificence, I am
convinced that they would take up the language of
the queen of the south to the wise king in Jerusa-
lem, and confess that the half has not been told
them. Mankind lament the want of books and
78 THEBES.
records of the affairs of ancient Egypt; but here
are to be seen, sculptured and painted in the most
glowing colours, the religion, history, philosophy,
arts, and costumes of the ancient Egyptians, Much
of it certainly in a language that cannot be under-
stood; but much of it perfectly intelligible. We
have probably in this small compass, more true
information respecting the private life, customs,
occupations and amusements of the ancient Egyp-
tians, than we should have found in all the volumes
of the Alexandrian library, had they come down to
us unimpaired, untouched by the devouring fire
of the Romans or the Saracens. Yet the world
know little or nothing of them, and cannot know
without going there; for there is but one copy of
their works upon the walls of their tombs and
dwellings, and that, to our shame, has never been
printed: and when the saps of time shall have
destroyed their integrity, their legibility, and their
brilliant hue, future ages may tax our careless and
sluggish nature, as we now do that of the Greeks
and Romans, who saw the monuments of Thebes
in all their glory; but stalked silently and stupidly
by, hardly leaving us a notice of what they were,
either in size, number, beauty, or appropriation.
Mr. Belzoni has done much; but the surface of
Thebes is hardly scratched, its mine of diamonds
remains unexplored.
The east side of the Nile has also its attractions,
THEBES. 79
and those by no means inconsiderable, in the tem-
ples of Luxor and Karnac. The first is situated,
as has been already mentioned, on the banks of
the river directly opposite to Medina Thabou. It
is at present the port of the eastern, or great
Thebaid; and the remains of an ancient pier,
and a high embankment of stone, show that it also
was so in former times. The workmanship, how-
ever, displayed in this embankment, seems to be
entirely Roman. The ruined temple, like that of
the Memnonium, is quite a skeleton; the greater
part of the columns in the interior, and part of
the sanctuary are still standing; but the outer walls
are thrown down, and the materials of which they
were constructed have been carried away. It is
nearly eight hundred feet long, and the propylon
along the front measures about two hundred feet
at its present base, which is twenty or thirty feet
above the foundation, as may be be seen from the
statues near the gate-way that just rear the tops of
their caps above the rubbish; so that judging from
the battering of the wall, it probably measured
twenty or thirty feet more. The large temples in
Thebes are not built on one uniform plan, all are
different; but the one under consideration re-
sembles that at the Memnonium more than those
at Karnac or Medina Thabou. It consists of a
propylon, large colonnades, and several chambers.
On.the front of the propylon is exhibited a battle
80
THEBES.
scene, in a most spirited style. It resembles in
many respects one of those at the Memnonium,
in the attitude, and colossal-size of the hero; the
havoc which he makes among his enemies; the
armour, dress and weapons, both of his friends
and foes; his complete triumph over all their op-
position; and finally his sitting on his throne judg-
ing the captives, and witnessing their punishment.
The whole piece is excellently described by Mr.
Hamilton; to whose work and to the plates of major
Hayes, I beg leave to refer; with this remark, that
there are no feathers waving over the heads of the
horses, and that the lion which he represents at
the feet of the hero in the act of rushing forward
to combat, is merely an ornament on the side of
his chariot, as in the same piece on the temple above
mentioned. The propylon is provided with stairs,
which are now much dilapidated, that lead up to
to the top, and give off passages to small chambers
as they ascend. The visiter passes easily from one
end of the propylon to the other over the top of
the ruined gateway, and ascends completely to the
summit. The base all round is built up with the
houses of the present village; and, in order to ob-
tain a correct view of the sculpture, it is necessary
to mount upon the roof of them, which the in-
habitants, for a small gratuity, readily permitted
us to do. There are several statues all along
the front of the propylon. The mitre-shaped
THEBES.
81
head-dress, and part of the face of two of them,
one on each side of the gateway appear above, the
body and the remaining parts are all buried under the
rubbish. Other statues just rearing their colossal
heads above the mud are to be seen in the interior
of the houses. They are all of the large-grained
granite of Assouan, highly polished and beautifully
formed, and all, except one, are in close contact
with the propylon. A little in advance of it to
the east are two beautiful obelisks from the same
quarry. They are about eighty feet high and ten
feet square at the base, perfectly unaffected by the
injuries of time, and covered all round with deeply
cut hieroglyphics from top to bottom, beginning at
the top as usual with the mitred hawk, emblematic
of their dedication to the god of day.
Behind the propylon we passed into the dromos,
a large open court with two rows of columns that
had been walled on each side and covered above,
forming a piazza all round. There are, or rather
have been, twelve square columns in each row at
each end, and eight on each side, counting the end
columns only onee, making in all twenty-six. The
whole dromos is about 300 feet long, and 160 feet
wide. All the columns and the side of the pro-
pylon are covered with sculpture and hieroglyphics.
From the dromos we passed on between two rows
of the most stately columns twelve feet in diameter,
and between thirty and forty feet high, with spreads
VOL. II. G
82 THEBES.
ing capitals, like the budding lotus. There are
six columns in each row which occupy the middle
of the space directly from the door of the dromos,
and it does not appear whether there were any
more, or whether they were inclosed by walls at
the sides. We came next to what had the appear-
ance of a cella, which is peripteral, having a row of
eleven columns on each side. The walls are pretty
entire, and inclose a space of about 160 feet long,
and 140 wide, and is at present possessed by a
number of the villagers and their cattle. It con-
tains many columns and the fragments of many
more which are broken down, and from the figure
of the cross and other insignia displayed along
^the walls, appears to have been once used as a place
of Christian worship. There has been a door-way
at each end, both of which are now built up, and
the regular entrance is over a low part of the side
wall. We next came to another colonnade, con-
sisting of ten rows of columns, three columns in
each row, all of which are covered with sculpture
and hieroglyphics; then a cross wall with a door-
way in the middle of it, and then another colon-
nade consisting of eight rows of columns with
four columns in each row. At the end of this
colonnade we came to what may be regarded as
the sanctuary of the temple, with an arcade in the
middle of the wall for a statue, in the place where
we naturally, in conformity with the plans of the
THEBES. S3
other temples, expected to have found a door; but
this we met with on the north side, and on entering
came to the sanctum sanctorum, or innermost
apartment of all, which is a small chamber about
fourteen feet square covered with sculpture
and hieroglyphics. From this we passed into
another chamber containing twelve columns, and
from that into another containing four columns,
and adorned with an equal number without,
with the appearance of their having been many
more, all of them highly ornamented with sculpture
and hieroglyphics. We have now arrived at the
end of the ruin, and near the brink of the river,
towards which there has been no door of access;
but the present termination of the ruins does not
seem to have been the original one of the building.
The subjects in the sculpture or hieroglyphics donor
differ materially from those already described, and,
therefore although I noted the greater part of them,
I consider it unnecessary to lay them before the public.
On the east side of the temple there is an im-
mense heap of rubbish higher than the temple it-
self, consisting of mud and sand, and broken pot-
tery ware, all huddled together in a mass. The
present village of Luxor occupies the centre of the
ruin, and spreads out to the north, and south, and
east, a considerable way. It contains one hundred
Coptic families who are Christians. They have four
priests, and a place of worship about four miles
g 2
S4 THEBES.
distant in the desert.- There are about five times
the number of mussulmans who live in small huts
about twelve feet square, among vermin, dust and
filth, the usual comforts of the moslems in Egypt.
These wretches neither enjoy themselves, nor per-
mit others to enjoy the sweets of a tranquil and
social life.
The temple of' Luxor was probably built on
the banks of the Nile for the convenience of sailors
and wayfaring men, where, without much loss of
time, they might stop, say their prayers, present
their offerings, perform their vows for past favors,
and bribe the priests for promises of future success;
and great and magnificent as it is, it only serves
to show us the way to a much greater, to which it
is hardly more in comparison than a kind of por-
ter's lodge. I mean the splendid ruin of the temple
at Karnac.
The distance from Luxor to Karnac is about a
mile and a half or two miles. The whole road was
formerly lined with a row of sphinxes on each side.
At present these are entirely covered up for about
two thirds of the way on the end nearest to Luxor,
and the track lies over the superincumbent ruins
of unburnt brick, and broken pottery-ware, covered
with dust and scattered tufts of a hard rushy grass,
such as generally grows in those parts of the coun-
try which are not subjected to the fertilizing inun-
dations of the Nile, ror watered by the labor of
THEBES. 85
man. Several high mounds appear in the course
of the way, as if small hamlets or villas had lent
their aid to enliven the scene. On the latter part
of the road near to Karnac, a row of criosphinxes,
that is with a ram's head, and a lion's body, still ex-
ists on each side of the way. Some of them are
very entire, but all are quite uncovered, and shaded
for part of the way by a grove of palm-trees on the
right hand, and on the left. n The road is well and
regularly formed, and is sixty three feet wide. The
sphinxes are represented couchant with their heads
turned towards the road. They are of common
sand-stone, the same as that of which the temples
are built, are twelve feet asunder, and each of them
has a small mummy-shaped figure standing up be-
tween the paws with the hands crossed over the
breast, and the sacred Tau in each, and a row of
hieroglyphics down the front. The road proceeds
for a little way up a gentle ascent, after which it
gradually slopes down and terminates in a fine gra-
nite gateway in front of a temple of Isis, close to
the village of Karnac. This handsome temple, which
is one of a suite of smaller temples, connected with
the grand temple, consists of a propylon, a small
dromos with columns on each hand, a pronaos with
four columns on each hand, and a cella divided
into five different apartments. The sculpture and
hieroglyphics are of the same description as on the
so
THlillES.
other temples, and the worship of Isis prevails*
throughout.
Abk
This, however, is not the regular approach to the
large temple which lies considerably to the right or
east, and passes likewise between two rows of
sphinxes which are much broken, and covered up
with sand; it then passes through four immense
propylons, the gifts of so many illustrious monarchs.
The gateways are chiefly of polished granite, and,
as well as the sides, are covered with sculpture and
hieroglyphics, and adorned with numerous colossal
statues; they are at the distance of four or five
hundred feet from each other, and as the votary
advanced, continued in succession to increase the
ardor of devotion, till, entering by the side, he is
placed in the centre of this splendid ruin, where the
astonished eye passes over the wrecks of a sacred
edifice extending to about six hundred feet on each
hand. Twelve hundred feet being about the whole
length of the temple, and four hundred and twenty
feet the breadth.
Besides this entrance which leads directly from
the Nile at Luxor, and which appears to have been
formed for the religious processions and ceremo-
nies that passed between the two places in sight of
the wondering multitude, there is another which
seems to have been the principal and public en-
trance from the west, facing northern Dair on the
TIIKUflS.
87
opposite side of the river. This entrance, which is
near the wall of unburnt brick that enclosed the
whole of this sacred ground, passes through a mag-
nificent propylon of 400 feet long and 40 feet thick,
andis approached also between two rows of sphinxes,
part of which was uncovered by the Earl of Bel-
more. It has eight windows in two rows, and four
false doors on each side of the gateway. The north
wing of the propylon is very much fallen down.
The front is not hewn, nor ornamented with hiero-
glyphics: from which I would infer that it has
been left in an unfinished state. There is a stair in
the northern end, by which to ascend to the top,,
and a passage over the ceiling of the doorway,
from the north to the south wing of the propylon.
Advancing within we perceived inscribed on the
right hand side of the passage, the latitudes of the
different places in Egypt, as taken by the French
Commission of Arts, at an early period of their un-
dertaking, when probably they had not learned to
take the error of their instruments, or to observe
with accuracy. Afterwards, however, they dis-
covered their mistake, repeated their observations;
the results of which are published in their large
work on Egyptian Antiquities. Looking forward
from the centre of this gateway, what a scene of
havoc and destruction is presented to the eye of
the observer, in an immense heathen temple of 1200
feet long and 400 feet wide, with its columns and
88
THKUliSi.
walls, and intersecting propylons, all prostrate in one
heap of ruins, looking as if the blight of heaven had
smote it at the command of an insulted God! Yet
this is but a part of the sacred premises of Dios-
polis. On every hand are gateways and adjoining
temples, which, in other places, would be reckoned
magnificent, and rows of sphinxes bounding the
avenue of communication to the different doors in
the sides of this grand temple, this pantheon, this
centre of pagan worship, the abode of the mighty
Ammon. The walls that remain are so shattered,
and the stones so detached from each other, that I
am now rather disposed to ascribe the effect to the
concussion of an earthquake, than to any human
operation.
This gateway leads into a spacious court, which
we should consider as the dromos of the temple;
but a row of stately columns, about forty feet high,
almost preclude our doing so. A row of smaller
columns passes down each side, and on the right a
small temple projects considerably into the court.
There are six columns in each of the rows in the
middle of the court, which terminate in front of
two broken colossal statues of large-grained granite,
standing in front of another propylon, which is com-
pletely covered with sculpture and hieroglyphics.
Great part of it, however, has fallen down, and we
see in the centre of the wall many stones which
had formed part of a temple previous to the pre-
THEBES.
89
sent ruins. Each side of the passage is richly sculp-
tured over with gods, and priests, and offerings,
and hieroglyphics.
Succeeding to this propylon is an immense co-
lonnade, consisting of eighteen columns, across the
building, and nine in the length of it. The two
rows of columns down the middle are the largest, as
we have seen in the Memnonium, and are about 11
feet in diameter. These supported the highest part
of the roof, in the sides of which are small windows
for the admission of light to this part of the temple.
The other columns are about eight feet in diame-
ter, and about 32 feet high. They are not mono-
lithic- The wall of the propylon, the side walls of
the temple, and all the 162 columns are completely
covered with the sculptured images of the hawk-
headed, wolf-headed, and human headed gods of the
Egyptians. To account for the occurrence of the
immense colonnades that we meet with in the Egyp-
tian temples, and more especially in those of the
Thebaid, such as the Memnonium, Luxor, and
Karnac, it may be observed that the Egyptians had
no other way of supporting a roof but by the erec-
tion of columns, the masonic arch not being then
understood. So that whenever a roof over a large
space was required, a large colonnade was indis-
pensible. The frequent and entire exhibition of
their polymorphous deities was another use that
they made of the colonnade. A succession of these
90
THKBESL
was carried over the columns, so that numerous
votaries could select the god of their choice, pre-
sent their offerings, kneel down, and worship, and
find a willing priest to teach them how to con-
ciliate his favor.
The end of this colonnade brings us to the end
of this half of the temple, on the outside of which
is sculptured the figure of two immense boats.
One of them is 51 feet long, and has the head of a
ram at each end, with only one principal person
on board, who, in one part of the vessel, is arrang-
ing an offering, and in another part of it working
the oar. The other boat is 45 feet long, and has a
number of people on board engaged in the act of
poling it forward. At this part of the temple en-
tered the grand passage from Luxor, through the
series of propylons, by the avenues of sphinxes al-
ready mentioned. The other half of the temple is
equally, and, perhaps, more interesting, for we
have not yet reached the sanctuary. Of four gra-
nite obelisks that adorned this part of the building
three are still standing. They are about seventy
feet high, and nine feet square at the base. The
other is thrown down, and cut through the middle,
that part of it might be carried away, which cir-
cumstances have prevented. A little to the west
of the obelisks are several beautiful columns, well
turned, and highly polished; I have not noted th^ir
height, but state them from memory, to be about
THEBES. fH
£0 feet. The capitals are exquisitely wrought,
and resemble the flower of the lotus. They seem
to have been merely ornamental, and stand at the
entrance of a sanctuary, which is also of highly
polished granite, and occupies the middle of this
part of the temple. This sanctuary is open at each
end, and divided into two open compartments, by
small partition walls that advance but a short way
upon the floor. The ceiling is also of granite paint-
ed blue, and adorned with stars. The walls are
covered with sculpture and hieroglyphics, and of-
ferings to Osiris and Mendes throughout; showing
the purpose for which it was constructed, and the
infamous nature of the Egyptian devotion. Lat-
terly, however, this sanctuary seems to have been
chiefly appropriated for the reception of the images,
vessels and sacred utensils employed in the rites
of their religion. The Earl of Belmore caused ex-
cavations to be made in it, and the discovery of a
granite boat, with an image on board, a number of
small statues, and other remains of antiquity, were
the result; proving at once the sagacity of his lord-
ship's conjecture, and the use for which this inner-
most apartment was constructed.
But walls of granite alone were not considered as
adequate to guard the sanctity of this little fane; stone
walls were also added with chambers on each side, ex-
clusive of the walls of the temple. Beyond this is ano-
ther extensivecolannade,whkhismuch broken down,
92 THEBES.
as well as the side walls of the temple. Indeed
the whole of this division of the edifice has suffered
much more than the other, and in many parts it is
quite level with the rubbish, so that we could
merely trace the continuous line of the wall, and in
some places not even that Passing out at this end
of the temple, there are the remains of another
colonnade, and at the distance of about twenty
paces another gateway, which at one time probably
formed a part of this most magnificent edifice;
but the intermediate space is so much covered with
rubbish that it was impossible to trace any connec-
tion between them. Much digging would be re-
quisite to enable the antiquary to form a correct
plan of this most interesting field of ruins: and
when we consider the value and importance of the
ancient treasures that lie hid in their bosom, we
are astonished that the labor has not long since
been commenced and pursued on a regular and
determined plan. An active young Frenchman,
Mr. Riphaud, was then engaged in making exca-
vations, so as to form plans of the temples for Mr.
Drouetti, the ci-devant French consul at Cairo, and
his labors have been crowned by many interesting
discoveries. But the labors of one man of moderate
means, in such a field, are nothing. They are like
the scrapings of a hen upon a field of corn ; enough
for the individual, but nothing for the whole. The
ruins of Thebes, and the ruins of Babylon, ought
THEBES. 93
to be thoroughly gone over, excavated, and cleared
out, as the king of Naples is excavating and clear-
ing out Pompeji and Herculaneum. The ruler
of the country has not a soul for such an under-
taking; but he has no objection to allow others to
dig and carry off all that they can find, and that
gratuitously. The work could never be begun under
more favorable circumstances; and were a well-
appointed commission to take their station on the
ruins of these ancient capitals, and set the natives to
work to clear them out from the foundation, much
of the mystery of antiquity would be solved, and
the museums of the world enriched beyond all cal-
culation. It is a weak and wretched policy that
makes one nation throwr obstacles in the way of
another, in its search after knowledge; and the indi-
viduals who do it, whatever may be their professions
to the contrary, have more good-will to self than to
science: a statue buried under rubbish can be seen by
no man, and can be useful to no man. But once un-
covered, whether that should be done by an English-
man or a Frenchman, it matters not, it is then the pro-
perty of the world. The finder may keep it, or sell it,
and it may be transferred to Paris, to London, to
Rome, to St. Petersburgh, to Vienna, or any where:
still it is accessible, people can see it, study it,
and derive from it pleasure and instruction. It
is a lost child restored to the great family of science
and art, which is of no country; whose home is
94 THEBES.
the world, of which all its votaries are citizens
united for improvement, and over whom religious
or political differences should exercise no dividing
influence or control.
But to resume the description of this interesting
field.—The great temple, the habitation of their
gods, occupies the centre; the field all round is
intersected by avenues lined with sphinxes up to the
temple, like so many radii from the circumference
to the centre. Between these different avenues
stood the houses of the city; each quarter provided
with a gateway for its own convenience, and fre-
quently with a temple and place of worship in the
course of the avenue between it and the great
temple; several of these are buried in the rubbish;
some of them were uncovered by Mr. Belzoni,
where he found several rows of female statues with
the human body and the lion's head, all of them
in a sitting posture with their hands upon their
knees, the left hand holds the sacred Tau. Near
to this temple is a large tank containing water;
there is also another large tank near the great
temple.
Every thing in regard to the plan and splendor
of this great city appears to have been subservient
to religion; and when we consider that the city
extended all the way to Luxor, a direct distance of
nearly two miles on this side of the river, we shall
cease to be surprized that it should be called
THEBES.
95
Diospolis; for never was there a city, not even
modern Rome, of which it might be said with
equal truth, the temple is every thing, and the ha-
bitations of individuals of no consideration. And
if we take into account the west side of the river
Medina Thabau, which faces Luxor, and northern
Dair which faces Karnac, all of which formed but
so many cardinal points in the religious processions
of the Theban priests; for though the tabernacle
of Jupiter dwelt in Diospolis or Karnac, yet it was
carried over the river every year, and remained for
a few days in Lybia: we have a space of between
nine and ten miles over which they exhibited the
pomp and parade of their religion, both going
and returning. Almost every part of the road
through this immense theatre was lined with
sphinxes, statues, propylons, and objects calculated
to awaken and keep alive the flame of devotion
throughout the procession; and in the whole of
the imposing ceremonies of pagan idolatry, I can-
not conceive any thing more extatic or confound-
ing, than the view which must have burst upon
the ravished sight, when, at the close of the solem-
nity of bringing back their god from the other side
of the river, they entered the grand temple at Kar-
nac, to replace him in his shrine, with harps and
cymbals and songs of rejoicing. I would attempt
to describe the enthusiasm of the votaries; hut the
gpd was a ram^ a hawk, a monkey^ or a goat.; and
96 THEBES.
we blush to think that there should be a God in
heaven, and that the heart of man should acknow-
ledge, or burn with zeal towards any other.
The field of ruins, more especially called Karnac,
is about a mile in diameter. Probably the whole of
this space was once, in the prouder days of Thebes,
consecrated entirely to the use of the temple; there
are evidences of walls considerably beyond this,
which probably enclosed the city in its greatest
extent; but after the seat of government had been
withdrawn, the capital removed to another spot,
and the trade transferred to another mart, the in-
habitants narrowed the circuit of their walls, and
planted their houses within the line of the sacred
confines. Traces of ancient brick buildings extend
about a quarter of a mile beyond the gateways
and more recent walls, after which commences the
level and cultivated plain, intersected by numerous
and deep canals.
From Karnac we proceeded to Medamoud, which
lies about a couple of miles to the east; but from the
low ground being still damp and unfit for travelling,
we were obliged to take a circuitous route, and we
were fully an hour in reaching it. In our way thither
we passed through the tents of the Bedoween Arabs,
who occupy the uncultivated part of the plain near
the mountain, and pasture their flocks among th^
coarse rushy grass that springs up in these neglected
fields. Here and there, we encountered a small
THEBES. 97
patch of cultivated ground for the supply of their
wants ; but the greater part of the land lies waste to
supply the wants of the cattle. The ruins of many
houses of sun-dried bricks show Medamoudto have
been a town of considerable extent. At present it is
quite uninhabited. A dilapidated gateway, and
a few granite columns are all that remain of an
ancient temple, and show that the same patient
spirit of labor for working the hardest material of
the stony world, and the same taste for ornamenting
their sacred buildings with hieroglyphics, and the
images of their polymorphous deities, prevailed
here as in other parts of the country. The greater
part of the stone of which the temple was built
has been carried away, probably to assist in the
construction of the stupendous edifice at Karnac.
There are many evidences of Medamoud having
once been a seat of Christian worship. The figure
of the cross still remains on many of the houses,
the figure of the Virgin Mary, the usual represen-
tations of God the Father and God the Son still
exist on the interior of a large building near the
west end of the ruins. In the days when the light
of the gospel shed its genial influence over this
venerable plain, it is supposed that this was the
seat of the metropolitan bishop, and called after
him Maximianopolis. It is certainly far from being
so conveniently situated for the inhabitants of this
side of the river as either Luxor or Karnac; being
VOL. II. h
98 THEBES.
fully three miles distant from the Nile in a direct
liije, and only about one, or one and a half, from the
mountain. In a country like Egypt to live at such
a distance from the Nile is really to live in banish-
ment; for with that river all the pleasures and
sociable enjoyments of the inhabitants are inti-
mately connected.
The ruins of the ancient temple prove that Me-
damoud was a place of consideration in more
ancient times. And not a few of the learned
suppose it to have formed a part of ancient Thebes,
which would be making that ancient city occupy
nearly the whole of the plain on both sides of the
river. From the report of its ancient population
and wealth, a person may be almost induced to
believe any thing of the extent of this ancient
capital. However there do not exist in the pre-
sent day any proofs in support of the opinion of
its having been ever joined to Karnac by a con-
nected series of buildings like Luxor, or of their
having ever been inclosed within the same walls.
I am therefore more disposed to consider this as
an adjoining village, than any integral part of the
town of ancient Thebes.
A little to the south-east of this I proceeded to
examine the mountain, in which I was accompanied
by the four Coptic priests of Luxor already men-
tioned. The visit was more particularly to see
their place of worship, which stands on the! rocky
THEBES.
90
fiat, about two hours' ride from Luxor. Thither they
assemble every morning by sun-rise, for the purpose
of Christian devotion. It is a small ill-built house,
surrounded with a court, inclosed by a stone wall.
As we approached their house of prayer, the vene-
rable fathers pointed with triumph to the sign of
the cross that had been sculptured on the wall, as
the badge of the religion in which they gloried.
On remarking that it was nearly obliterated by
human violence, they shrugged up their shoulders,
stroked their beards, and observed that they lived
by an imperfect toleration in presence of the
Mussulmans, the enemies of their faith, who let
no opportunity escape of wounding their feelings,
by insulting their chiefest boast. Still, however
they felt it to be their duty to engrave it upon
their walls and upon their doors in defiance of
every threat and of every assault, as they did to
hold fast the doctrines of their religion, in spite of
every taunt to wrhich it might subject them, or of
every worldly temptation with which they might
be assailed, to exchange the Christian religion for
another; which they very properly observed was no
religion at all. Sincerity is a grand thing; and a
clear conscience, like a cloudless sky, is a conti-
nual feast. It was impossible not to feel something
more than respect for such men, illiterate as they
were: their profession had evidently a hold, of
h 2
10(1 THEBES,
their conscience, and in the clay of trial and per-
secution they were more likely to die as martyrs,
than to live as proselytes, of a creed which they
disbelieved and despised. The interior of the
church was not better than what might have been
expected from th.9 appearance of its coarse and
tawdry exterior. We entered and sat down on the
palm-tree mats with which the floor was covered,
in a sort of circular corridor, and remained about
half an hour. I asked them to show me their bibles
and prayer-books. They replied, that they were
at home in their houses; that they could not with
safety leave them there. I trust, the meaning that
met my ear, was the conscious knowledge of their
hearts. One of them pulled out of his bosom a
few leaves of an Arabic prayer-book with an Italian
translation. Of the latter language he did not
know one letter of the alphabet, nor comprehend
so much as one word; and, from what I saw, it
seemed to be a Roman Catholic missal; but he
seemed to hug the tattered fragment as an invalu-
able treasure, which he possessed above all his
brethren. What an inestimable possession would
a few bibles and prayer-books, both of their own
liturgy and ours, that they might see and know
the difference, be to such men as these, and to
their flock! I regretted exceedingly that I had
neither the one nor the other to offer them; but I
THEBES. 101
believe many have since been forwarded to Egypt
and to Thebes; as the reverend Mr. Jowett has
since visited the country.
On leaving this poor but respected place of
Christian devotion, that, like the rose in the desart,
or the lily in the valley, for the time engrossed all
the enthusiasm, and all the feelings of our heart, we
took a ride along the rocky flat by the base of the
mountain, to see if there were any excavations in
it on this side similar to those on the west side of
the river. Before we set out on this expedition,
the reverend fathers assured me that there were
none; and after a little peregrination, I gave up
the pursuit, yielded to their persuasions, and mea-
sured the way back to Luxor. I should like ex-
tremely that the mountain and rocky flat on the
east of Karnac were examined, and that the ex-
plorer would constantly ask himself and his attend-
ants, where were the sepulchres of Karnac, Me-
damoud, Luxor, and the other towns or villages
on this side the river?
On our way to Luxor the conversation was va-
rious and desultory. They enquired my name,
with which heretofore they were unacquainted,
always calling me, as they had heard me called,
Hackim, or Doctor. I translated it into Arabic,'
Ibn Raschid, son of Richard, or Richardson; but
that was so islamitic, that they would scarcely
believe me: I assured them, however, that it was
\Q®. THEBES,
a truth j and that so far from being aware of its
conformity with the system they alluded to, that
I was called by the Reisses and sailors, Mahomet
Hackim. With this piece of information they were
perfectly shocked, and reprimanded me as if I
had renounced my creed, saying that Ibrahim,
Isaac, Yakoub, and Yousouff, were names that any
man might adopt without compromising his creed,
or having his ears offended; but that Mahomet
was a sound which no Christian could or ought to
hear with patience or satisfaction. It was like
hearing yourself called Devil for fun, and these
were too serious matters to jest about. I smiled, and
stood corrected, with their critique upon a name;
though, not without conviction, that the reverend
fathers were perfectly in the right; which I honestly
acknowledged.
On our arrival at Luxor we alighted from our
asses, in a large court in the Coptic quarters: here
the reverend conductors departed to their homes,
and left me in the midst of a numerous assembly
of Christian patients, who had been collecting there
during the whole of the day to receive advice for their
different complaints. I sat down in the open court,
and the invalids collected around me, and seemed
really to rejoice as much that their visiter was a
Christian as that he was a physician. The old and
the young, the blind, the sick, and the lame, came
to me with a joy and confidence that it was delightful
THEBES.
103
to witness, and which it is impossible to describe.
Havingoperated on one of their eyes, I withdrew the
knife at the end of the operation, and pausing a little
before I bound up the wound, looked round upon
a crowd of about an hundred individuals by whom
I was surrounded. Instantly one of them wishing
to say what he thought would be most agreeable,
called out "Koulli Nazarani," they are all Chris-
tians. Koulli, Koulli, all, all, was immediately re-
echoed by the whole assembly; imagining that
the most gratifying sight that can fall under the
eyes of a believer in Christ, is an assembly of men
and women worshipping the same God, and resting
their hopes of eternal salvation on the same Savior
with himself. It is, and it always ought to be
so; but if at any period, or on any occasion, the
acclamation on the ear may be allowed to thrill
more gladly in the heart than another, it is when
the glorious confession bursts spontaneously from
such an assembly as this, who, for ages, have held
fast their faith in opposition to their rulers and
their neighbors, by whom they are degraded and
held in contempt. Here is a Christian wanting
advice, was an appeal that the Coptic applicants
constantly employed, when they saw me surrounded
by the consulting votaries of islamism, who kept
them at bay, or when they had arrived too late for
the morning or evening hours of consultation. My
104
THEBES.
conscience bears me witness that it was an appeal
which they never made to me in vain.
During the whole time that I remained in Thebes,
I am sure I had not fewer than twenty patients a-
day, both morning and evening, from all parts of
the country. Money they had none to give; but
they brought freely of pigeons, fowls, and eggs,
which was all they had to bestow j but which, to
the great annoyance of our young Reis, I never
accepted. "Let them take the physic, and I will
take the pigeons," said the youthful Abdallah, who
was a man of taste, and preferred boiled eggs and
poultry to boiled bread and water. His eye gloated
on the birds, and his mouth filled with water, as if
his teeth wrould devour the hand that refused the
feathered younglings. This youth had two wives,
whom, like most other Mussulmans, he thumped in
rotation, that they might not steal his shirts, and
bestow them on their sweethearts. Kind treatment
was recommended, as a more worthy expedient to
endear him to their affections, and to identify their
interest with his own. This touched a note which
had no existence in the moral gamut of his
country; but nature had stamped it on his heart,
and he wras about to reply, like a husband and a
man, when his father maintained the jus marili
that the dames richly deserved it; and rebuking his
son for holding such heretical conversation, said he
THEBES. 105
was next year to make the pilgrimage to Mecca,
and would then be a Hadji, whom his wives ought
to worship, and whom he ought to thump. Abdallah
was an amiable man, and had he been allowed,
would have been a Christian.
When the wives of Mussulmans are caught in
adultery, they are obliged to choose between the
dreadful alternative of being put into a sack with
stones, and drowned in the Nile, or of becoming
women of the town; in which case they must pay
every month a certain sum to the Aw^alli, for per-
mission to exercise their infamous profession: the
latter is the part of the alternative which they most
generally adopt. No punishment whatever is
exacted from the man. When both parties are
equally guilty, there is no justice in the law by
which one only is made to suffer for the offence.
If lions could paint, what would be the picture?
The prevailing diseases in Thebes are affections
of the eyes, with a greater proportion of cataracts
than I ever remember to have seen in the same
population. Dyspepsia, slight hepatic affections,
and, what I was not so much prepared for, consump-
tions, cutaneous diseases, schirrous and ill-condi-
tioned ulcers; but the most importunate of all the
applicants for advice were those who consulted on
account of sterility, which in this country is still con-
sidered as the greatest of all evils. The unfortunate
couple believe that they are bewitched, or under
io6
THEBES.
the curse of Heaven, which they fancy the physi-
cian has the power to remove. It is in vain that
he declares the insufficiency of the healing art to
take away their reproach. The parties hang round
dunning and importuning him, for the love of God,
to prescribe for them, that they may have children
like other people. Give me children, or I die,
said the fretful Sarah to her husband. Give me
children, or I curse you, say the barren Egyptians
to their physicians. Of all professions, that of phy-
sic is certainly the best to travel with in the Levant:
the physician may be sometimes difficulted in
getting away from a particular place, where his
professional services have entitled him to the esteem
and gratitude of the inhabitants; but there is ne-
ver any doubt of his meeting with a kind and wel-
come reception, and of hearing many prayers put
up for his safety, the efficacy of his prescriptions,
and his continuance among them.
The ruins on the east side of the river are far
from being so interesting to the inquiring traveller
as those on the west: they may be said to consist
solely of the temples at Luxor and Karnac. No
excavations have yet been discovered, whether any
actually do exist in the mountain, or along the
rocky flat, is a circumstance to be determined by
the researches of future travellers. The edifices
here are undoubtedly on a grander scale; that of
Karnac alone, independently of the adjoining tern-
THEBES. 107
pies, and connecting medium of double-rowed
sphinxes, is so confounding, that to state its length
and breadth, the diameter of its columns, the height
of its obelisks, or the number and depth of its
propylons, is not by any means adequate to give
the reader a true idea of the vastness and imposing
effect of their ruined grandeur. Time might have
done his worst, he was incompetent to their destruc-
tion ; but the wasteful Typhon has strewed them on
the ground, that man may be humble, nor have
whereof to glory in the labor of his hands.
When, however, we examine in detail the work-
manship on the temples, on the east side of the
river, we do not find that it is superior ; and I should
rather feel disposed to say, not equal to that dis-
played upon the temples on the west: it is only
the battle scene on the propylon at Luxor, and the
wood and pastoral scenes on the north wall at
Karnac, that can be put in competition with the
ornamental part of the Memnonium and Medina
Thabou. The execution and composition of both
may be considered as of equal merit, judging from
the imperfect specimens that remain for our inspec-
tion. In regard to the general sculpture and
hieroglyphics, the small temple of Isis, behind the
Memnonium, infinitely surpasses them all in point
of execution. I am disposed to consider this small
temple as one of the oldest in Thebes; and were I
to arrange them in a chronological order, I should
108 THEBES*
mention next the body of the Memnonium; the
propylon seems to be considerably more recent;
next the body of the smaller temple at Medina
Thabou, both the propylons of which appear to be
much more modern than the small temple of Isis
at Karnac; next the temple at Luxor; then the
large temple at Karnac; and, last of all, the large
temple at Medina Thabou.
Small temples probably preceded large ones, and
templesbuilt of the stone of the country, in theimme-
diate neighbourhood, probably preceded those built
of materials which were brought from a distance.
There are several relics of the former on the west
side of the river, but none, as far as I perceived,
on the east, where they are all of sand-stone, pro-
bably from the extensive quarries of Hadjr Silsil.
There are no obelisks on the west side of the river,
and those on the east side appear to be older than
the temples, and the hieroglyphics on them are
deeper and better cut. There are many statues,
both at Luxor and Karnac, of the red large-grained
granite of Assouan : there are none on the west side
of the river, saving the large broken statue at the
Memnonium. There are no statues on the east
side of the river, made from the stone of the
adjoining rock of the country, or of the highly
crystalized quartzy sand-stone; but on the west
side of the river there are many fragments of both
in different places. The two statues of Shamy and
THEBES. 109
Damy are the largest, and apparently the oldest
in Thebes. The angles in the arms, knees, and
different flexures of the body are more acute; the
soil upon the stone is greater, and apparently they
are coeval with the first series of temples. Some
small figures made of the same stone, and cut in
the same style, are found in the tombs of the kings.
If the first series of temples are those which
were destroyed by the orders of Cambyses, ad-
mitting such an event to have taken place, the
date of the temples in Diospolis, of the different
propylons, and the large temple in the western
Thebes, are probably subsequent to that period;
and these being constructed of the materials of
other sand-stone temples, furnish a presumption,
that they were constructed posterior to some great
disaster, and .most probably to the one alluded to.
Herodotus mentions a spacious temple in Thebes,
which contained a number of wooden statues, and
states that they existed in the time of Hecateus,
who is believed to have flourished in the days of
Darius Hystaspes, the successor of Cambyses; a
proof that the Theban temples had not been 'all
destroyed by the son of Cyrus: but the venerable
historian does not mention whether that temple
was on the east side of the river, or on the west,
and is altogether silent as to its dimensions, and to
the number of temples in Thebes.
110 THEBES.
Diodorus Siculus says there were four temples,
probably those of Luxor, Karnac, Medina Thabou,
and the Memnonium—" for beauty and grandeur
to be admired."— The most ancient of which was
thirteen furlongs in circumference, five-and-forty
cubits high, and enclosed with a wall four-and-
twenty feet broad. The prescribed dimensions come
nearest to the great temple at Karnac. The frag-
ments of the wall of the enclosure may be found in
the ruined circumvallation of unburnt brick; but
the walls and columns of the present temple fall far
short of the altitude assigned by the historian.
The greater part of these temples I consider to
have been erected by the hierarchy, and not by the
government of the country; for not one of them
has been begun and carried on regularly to a con-
clusion, but built up in detachments. First, a
small cella, then side chambers, then a pronaos,
then a propylon, then a colonnade, a dromos, a
propylon, and so on, as they obtained money from
the success of their speculation, or donations from
grateful sovereigns. The later built parts of the
temple are hardly ever in proportion with the for-
mer, so that they they appear to have begun their
buildings without any regular plan. But the most
interesting object of research in the Thebaad, per-
haps I ought to say in the whole universe, are the
subterraneous excavations on the west side of the
THEBES. Ill
river, so often mentioned. Of these I have already
stated my opinion, and would only observe further,
that the decorations correspond, in a wonderful de-
gree, with those on the temples. The same objects
of adoration, masked in the same disguise of the
human body, surmounted by the heads of different
animals.—The bull and cow are met with occasi-
onally, perfumed with incense, and presented with
offerings; but I never saw them, either in temple
or tomb, as the principal object of worship. Scenes
of private life, exercise, amusements, and rural
sports, which we see so frequently exhibited along
the walls of the tombs, and which constitute no
small share of the delight which the traveller ex-
periences in visiting them, are seldom found upon
the temples. The ancient Egyptians were accus-
tomed to say, our houses are but hotels, in which
we sojourn for a moment; our tombs are our lasting
habitations. It were a wasteful profusion to orna-
ment the former; but no exuberance of fancy can
sufficiently embellish the latter. How eagerly must
that man cling to earth who condescends to dress
himself a tomb! He knows not that flesh and bones
are but the momentary appendages of our being;
they are not the life of man. When the soul quits
the earthy tabernacle assigned it by the Creator,
it has finished its converse with mortality, and its
mandate is to return to its God; yet man would
chain it to earth, by decorating its loathsome off-cast
112 THEBES.
in marble, whose place is in the dust, to become
an integral part of that mould from which it was
derived, to feed others as it was fed. How falsely
does he appreciate its value, who would give the
body immortality. Let the fiat of Heaven prevail,
and the corpse be buried in the earth.
In this season of the year, the Egyptians, having
little occasion to employ their time in the labors
of the field, devote themselves to opening and
plundering the tombs of their ancient countrymen,
of every article that can tempt the European tra-
veller to make it his own. The grave-clothes, bones,
bitumen, and mummy-chest, they leave exposed in
the open air. Of the mummies it may be observed,
that, generally speaking, nothing but the bones re-
main. Mr. Belzoni has brought one very perfect
specimen to this country; but such an one is very
rare. Sometimes the hair is found on the head re-
gularly plaited, and well preserved; the chest and
skull are generally filled with bitumen ; and if there
be a papyrus MS. accompanying the body, that is
generally thrust into the breast, or between the
knees: sometimes it is enclosed in a small wooden
box or a leathern purse. In the latter case it is a
species of charm, and it is usually written in
Arabic. The papyri MSS. are written in the hiero-
glyphic, or in the enchorial character, which is
supposed to be the running hand hieroglyphic;
hence the French call it cursif. The cloth wrap-
THEBES. US
ping of the mummy looks fresh, but is quite rot-
ten; and though generally coarse, it is occasionally
met with of the finest texture. When a fine mum-
my-chest is discovered, it is generally expected to
contain something valuable. This, however, rarely
proves to be the case, as the greater number of
them has been opened; and although the body has
not been unrolled, and seems very little, if at all
discomposed, the box with the papyrus has usually
been purloined. The images of the female, the
dog headed, wolf-headed, and hawk-headed deities
that accompanied them to the tomb have been car-
ried away. These figures are sometimes found in
the abdomen, but frequently at the feet of the
mummy, which occasioned the cases to have been
anade so much longer than the size of the body.
Sometimes these images are solid, at other times
they are hollowed out like jars, with moveable tops
fitted to them, resembling the heads of these dif-
ferent animals, and then they are considered as
more valuable. These are often found empty, but
occasionally they contain the liver, the stomach,
and other parts of the viscera that have been steept
in the same antiseptic as that with which the body
had been embalmed. Sometimes on the outside of
the swathing the body is entirely covered over with
small blue beads strung together, and tastefully ad-
justed in squares. The figure of a scarabaeus, em-
blematic of the moving principle, is wrought over
VOL, II. j
114
THEBES.
the heart, and rows of ornament round the neck.
Sometimes above all there is a covering of the stem,
leaves, and flower of a plant, probably the lotus,
interlaced and tied together round the body.
The papyri are generally found in the bitumen,
which lines and fills up the chest, or between the
knees. They are in compressed rolls, and are
sometimes a foot and a half long, and highly gilt,
in which case they are greatly prized. At other
times they are found short and thick, and are still
considered as valuable. When long and thin, and
without any ornament, they are but lightly esteem-
ed. The most perfect of these papyri, and the best
unrolled that I have ever seen, belongs to the Earl
of Belmore, and was unrolled by himself. It is in
hieroglyphics, and is every way complete, not a
device or character wanting, or even obscured,
but fresh and legible as the day in which it was
written: it is about a foot broad, and fourteen feet
and a half long. The finest and the largest that I
ever saw belongs to Mr. Belzoni: it is about a
foot and a half broad, and three and twenty feet
long. It is written partly in the hieroglyphic, and
partly in the enchorial character, with a number of
curious devices; but here and there large patches
of it are effaced.
A number of small black wooden figures of the
human body, of about eight or ten inches long,
forms another part of the furniture of the tombs.
THEBES. 115
They are generally found lying scattered about the
tomb, but are rarely found in the mummy-case
along with the body; and as in the same tomb
the figures are generally of one feature, and differ
from those in another tomb, it is probable that they
were intended for likenesses of the deceased, to be
distributed among his friends at the funeral. Some-
times these small figures are made of the easily
sectile stone of the country, highly'polished, and
painted of a pale blue color. They are mummy-
shaped, the limbs are not separated, and the body
appears as if enveloped in a robe. The arms are
folded over the breast, and the hands exposed on
each side; the right holding the hoe and string of
the seed-bag, which hangs over the left shoulder;
and the left hand holding what has generally been
denominated a scourge. I confess I am not satis-
fied with the appellation; but I am not sure that
I am nearer the truth in calling it a flail. The
beard is finely plaited; the ends of the head-dress
fall down the breast. From the point of the beard
two rows of hieroglyphics pass down to the feet,
and three rows down the back. Some of these
small figures are remarkably well executed, and
are of the more valuable materials of red or black
granite, serpentine, or alabaster. And last of all
they are sometimes of a species of pottery ware,
covered with a vitrified coat of the finest blue, said
to be from Cobalt. The large figures of this de-
i 2
116
THEBBS.
scription, about a foot long, are very rare, and hi-
therto have been found chiefly in the tombs of the
kings.
I have already alluded to the Egyptian statuary,
and would here subjoin a few words more on the same
subject. Diodorus Sicitlus informs us, that the an-
cient Egyptians judged of a statue by measure-
ment, and not by fancy or the eye like the Greeks;
that they divided the whole body into twenty-one
parts and one fourth, to each of which they assign-
ed a determinate and relative proportion. Having,
therefore, measured the size of the stone, and
agreed upon the dimensions of the statue, the art-
ists set to work, and each performed the portion
assigned him with such exactness, that though the
statue had consisted of two parts, and one part of
it had been wrought in Assouan, and the other in
Thebes, when brought together they fitted to a
hair, and the whole appeared to be the workman-
ship of one man. This was a plan likely to main-
tain the art in the state of perfection to which it
had arrived, but not calculated to advance it. The
hands of their statues were generally stretched out,
and their legs in a walking posture. The only
statue that I ever saw which answered to this de-
scription, was one made of wood, and painted black,
at Luxor in Thebes. It was between eight and
nine feet high, and I believe was discovered by
Mr. Belzoni. A sort of pyramidal apron or bag
THEBES. 117
hung down to the knee; the rest of the body was
naked. The legs in a walking attitude is a very
common posture, but the hands are generally down
by the side, as in the six large statues in front of
the smaller temple at Absambul, or resting upon
the pyramidal apron in front, as in many of the
isolated statues in Thebes, and other parts of the
country.
The most common posture of their large statues
is sitting, as in those in front of the large temple at
Absambul, and of Memnon and his companion in
Thebes. They are seated upon an elevated throne,
their hands rest upon their knees, a plaited beard
hangs from the chin, and the aspect is placid,
dignified, and composed. A tippet of curious work-
manship surrounds the neck, and falls down upon
the breast. The head is attired in a long painted
cap, or a mass of hair, like a periwig, falling over
the tippet upon the breast, and encircled with a
row of serpents crowned with the globe, emblema-
tic of the sun, as of time and eternity. Round the
waist is a large kirtle that falls lightly upon the
thighs; the feet are accommodated with sandals.
The countenance is generally well executed, the
lower eyelid particularly delicate, and the lips do
all but speak. They are generally fleshy and large,
and approach considerably to those of the negra,
as in some do also the nose and forehead; in others,
and those by far the finest, excepting in the lips,
118
THEBES.
there is not the slightest resemblance in other parts*
of the countenance, though a good deal both hi
the legs and arms, in the hands, and in the feet.
The fingers are of unequal length, as we find them
in nature. The second toe is generally longer than
the first, which is uniformly the case in the Afri-
can, and occasionally in the European ; but the re-
verse is generally exhibited in the Grecian statues.
The remarkable uniformity which prevails both in
their largest and smallest statues, is to be accounted
for from their mode of working described above.
The drapery, countenance, and body of the statue
is decidedly national, which is a compliment to the
taste of the artists, and a proof that they were na-
tives of the country whose gods and heroes they
have sculptured, A foreign artist generally imparts
something of the costume of his native land, and can
never give the true feeling and expression to the
countenance of a stranger that belqngs to him. If
an epic poet ought to be the compatriot of his
hero, much npore ought a statuary and a painter to
be the same. Memnon was an Egyptian; Zeuxis,
JVoxiteles, and Phidias were Greeks; Raphael,
Miphael Angelo, Italians; and Sir Joshua Reynolds,
an Englishman. The statuaries in ancient Rome
were Greeks; apd when called to exert their skill,
i£ was to give immortality to a Roman, the enslaver
pf their, country. How lifeless, and how insipid are
their representations of their masters compared
THEBES. 119
with the statues of their indigenous divinities and
patriotic heroes! They are studies of fancied nature,
and not reality. They wrought with reluctance,
their genius being called upon to execute what it did
not feel, could not succeed, like the Highland drum-
mer, who could not beat a retreat, because he did
not like it, and had never learned it. The Memnon,
the Theseus, and Apollo are all delightful; wre want
a Babylonian statue to precede them, and an Eng-
lish one to come after them, to have complete spe-
cimens of the history of this noble art. It is in
vain to complain of our national feature and cos-
tume, give it truly, it has many excellencies; but
if it had none, a well executed pig is better than a
bungled peacock. Stupidity is encompassed with
difficulties; genius surmounts them: and an Eng-
lishman can no more be gratified with seeing Mr.
Fox in a cella curulis, a Roman toga, bare legs, and
sandals on his feet, than would an ancient patrician
with seeing Cato attired like a dandy, and frisking
away on the back of a velocipede. Extera laadan-
da, bona verb nostra fovenda.
Sometimes these tombs contain only one deposit,
with the accompaniments and decorations above
mentioned, and these may be considered as the
tombs of people in eaay circumstances, who could
afford to pay for all the state and pomp with which
their bodies were ornamented and interred. But
there are large pits that have evidently been formed
120 THEBES.
as general receptacles far the more indigent dead.
Lord Belmore, in the course of his researches, opened
one of these near the small temple of Isis, above the
M emnonium. It contained, according to our judg-
ment, 500 or 1000 mummies; some went so far
as to say 1500 or 2000, or even further. All of
them decently wrapt up in their grave clothes, and
laid in a horizontal posture above one another. I
never saw, and 1 never met with any person who
said he had seen a mummy placed erect upon its
feet; yet I do not consider this as decisive of the
question that they were not once so placed. On the
contrary, from the shape of the niches that I have
seen in the abodes of the ancient Egyptians, I have
the most firm conviction that they were so placed,
and among the common people probably after-
wards removed to such a receptacle as the one
which I have just described. After having for
sometime looked upon these fallen generations of
our race, the tomb was again shut up, and the dead
left to repose in their ancient abode.
One object that especially engaged the attention
of the noble traveller, was the taking out of a
granite sarcophagus from the bottom of a deep
tomb, about half way up the mountain, above the
village of Gornou, on the west of the road that
leads to the tombs of the kings. This was a most
Herculean undertaking, and required every effort
that ingenuity could suggest to accomplish it. The
THEBES. 121
want of ropes, crow-bars, and strong men accus-
tomed to the work, presented obstacles almost in-
superable. These, however, were all at length
overcome, and this ancient inhabitant of the inner-
most recess of the tomb transferred to the open
air. It was the original intention of the noble tra-
veller to have brought this sarcophagus to England,
it being the only entire sarcophagus that has ever
been met with, having the lid uninjured, and re-
maining in its place. The body, if ever it con-
tained one, had been abstracted. However, on
bringing it to the light, his lordship did not Con-
sider it worth the trouble and expense of trans-
portation.
While the men are employed in ransacking the
tombs of the ancient Thebans, the females are en-
gaged in the pristine occupation of tending the
flocks. In our peregrinations along the edge of
the desart, it was no uncommon occurrence to
meet with both mother and children seated beside
a little flock of sheep or goats, hardly more nume-
rous than themselves. When the stranger approach-
ed them, the adult females drew their dark woollen
veils over their faces, leaving only a small opening
for their darker eyes to look abroad. If he chose
to bid them good morning or good evening, they
might or might not return his salutation. It was
by no means to be reckoned uncivil though they
V%°1 THEBES.
did not. The younger part of the group usually
made up, and the silencing the dogs was an usual
prelude to their demanding a baxiss, which they
generally did with much importunity. But the
flocks in Thebes being very few, the weeding of
the crops, the superintendence of the domestic
concerns, and the carrying of water for the uses of
their families, comprise the more general occupa-
tions of the softer sex. Their only education is to
perform the lowest offices of domestic drudgery, to
work nets for their hair, bracelets for their wrists,
or siring beads for their necks. The beads are
generally of glass, and uncut agate, of which they
wear an ungraceful profusion. Their nails are dyed
red; the backs of their hands, their arms, chin, and
several parts of the face are tattooed in small
patches, of a pale blue color. The devices are
generally circular, and filled with dots. On the out-
side, or to speak technically, dorsal aspect of the right
forearm, a little above the wrist, both sexes generally
have tattooed the * of the Prophet,
Tirsi Moslimin, or v/^~^0 which is perfectly
moslem shield, an ^j « V" competent to ward
amulet; engrained J\ • • J^off, or quench all
in the skin, in the f°y~\St t^ie ^erY ^arts °^
form of the shield * * the devil and his
angels. The Christians are tattooed with the
sign of the cross, the holy sepulchre, the holy
THEBES.
123
family, or some favorite saint. Confidence is half
the battle. How happy are they who have their
shield in their heart, and trust in their God, while
they do their best themselves, giving amulets and
images alike to the dogs! Marriages are consum-
mated at the early age of twelve, or fourteen. The
man must husband his earnings to purchase him-
self a wife j and I mention for the information and
comfort of poor, bashful, despairing bachelors, that
the price of a wife in Thebes is thirty piastres, or
fifteen shillings British money. Reading or writ-
ing, or mental improvement, are to them unknown.
I don't believe that the first woman in Thebes
knows one letter of the alphabet. There is a school
at Luxor for teaching the boys the knowledge of
letters, and a little arithmetic, and a discourse is
delivered in the mosques every Friday by one of the
Shiekhs; but it is seldom that females are allowed
to participate even in this small gratification. Their
want of consequence and degradation in society
strikes an European with horror. In the whole of
the villages that occupy the site of this ancient
capital, from which proceeded the first conquerors
and civilizers of the world, where science first rear-
ed her venerable head, where was the oldest library
on record, and where books were called the medi-
cine of the soul, though still possessing a popula-
tion of eight or ten thousand beings, there does
124 THEBES.
not exist one person that merits the appellation of
a lady, an instructed man, or a gentleman. Who
shall cover Thebes again with its splendor? With
man it is impossible; but not so with God. When
the Millennium commences, these dry bones shall
live.
[ 125 ]
CHAPTER XVI.
DEPARTURE FROM THEBES VOYAGE DOWN THE
NILE ARRIVAL AT CAIRO.
We have now completed a general survey of the
antiquities of Thebes, and the more wre looked at
them, the more interesting we found them; and the
more reluctance we felt in quitting this memorable
spot. Man may linger on his journey, but time
continues in unremitting progression. We had
now spent nearly a month in Thebes. The plague
usually commences in Cairo in the beginning of
April; and wishing above all things to avoid a ren-
counter with this terrible scourge of our species, it
behooved us to make preparations for our departure.
These were completed by the ninth of February;
and on the morning of the tenth, at break of day,
we unloosed from the bank and took leave of this
most delightful plain, situated in the most delight-
ful climate in the world. We floated down slowly
past Karnac, (which our Arabs called Hamdi) and
Gornou. The ruddy sky gradually brightened along
the horizon, and the god of day showed his glad-
dening aspect over the mountains of Diospolis, sa-
126 VOYAGE DOWN THE NILE.
luting with his earliest ray the opposite hills of
Gornou; then touching his favored Nile, he lighted
up all the surrounding plain. The interesting and
beautiful scene gradually retired from our sight.
The smaller propylons of Karnac and Luxor first
yielded to the distance; the lofty gateway and obe-
lisks of the former continued longer in view; but
at length they also sunk in the horizon, and, by eight
o'clock, nothing but the sycamore-tree at Gornou
of all our acquaintances in Thebes lingered in the
vanishing point to bid us a long and lasting adieu.
The song of the boatmen as they towed us along,
and the succession of villages in our course, called
up again our travelling recollections, and compen-
sated in some measure, by their variety, the re-
gret that we felt in quitting this most interesting
and inexhaustible field of ancient ruins, where the
inhabitants had used us with an uniform kindness,
and the constant and delightful occupation of the
mind made the stay of a whole month appear but
as the passing of a day.
We stopt for the night a little above Gheneh,
which we reached early next morning. It was not
our intention to have remained long here; but the
interpreter who had been sent round to Cous or
Coptus in quest of antiquities, did not arrive at
the time expected, and we were on that account
obliged to remain for the night. Next morning
having arranged matters with the banker, we dropt
VOYAGE DOWN THE NILE, 127
down to Dendera. The second view of the tem-
ple pleased us quite as much as the first. Egypt
does not possess a ruin of greater architectural
beauty.
Leaving Dendera, we proceeded on our way
and stoptfor the night a little above Dashni, which
we passed next morning about eight o'clock. The
wind was from the north, and blew so fresh, that
we moved on heavily, and the vessel being high
above the water rowing was of little service, and
was accordingly desisted from.
On the evening of the 13th we stopt at Raisieh,
and about nine o'clock the following morning passed
Gassr Seyada nearly opposite to Diospolis parva,
on the west side of the river, where there are large
mounds of rubbish and a ruined temple, which we
did not stop to examine.
We remained all night opposite to Fardjout*
which is surrounded by a grove of Thebaic and
other palm-trees, and about an hour and a half dis-
tant from the river. Here we saw many crocodiles,
which were fired at by several of the party, but with-
out effect. Next morning the wind was still high
and contrary and cold. The Arabs call this month
Shahr Amsheer; ten days of it are said to be pe-
culiarly severe upon the goats, and many of them
die in consequence of the cold; if they can with-
stand this, they have nothing to fear from climate
during the rest of the year. On the morning of
128 VOYAGE DOWN THE NILE,
the 16th it was calm, and we made considerable
way $ but the wind got up about noon, and obliged
the rowers to desist, and we got on but slowly.
The monotony of this day's sail was somewhat
broken by observing a troop of dervises on each
side of the river. They had two large drums and
two stands of colors which they displayed in going
from place to place, in order to collect a crowd, or
when they ran, or danced, or exhibited any of
their wonderful feats. One of them was mounted
on an ass, and wore a high cap, resembling the
tutulus or Persian cap. They had in every respect
the appearance of a band of strolling mountebanks
wandering about the country to play tricks, and
cheat the people of their money. Yet these saints,
as they are called, perform no inconsiderable part
in the drama of Islamism; and like their predeces-
sors, the magicians of Pharaoh, who strove by their
enchantments to defeat the miracles of the inspired
legislator of Israel, would prove the most formida-
ble opponents to any attempt to change the religion
of the country, and appeal to their legerdemain
as an undoubted proof of their enjoying the divine
favor and protection; nevertheless, the most cer-
tain way to vanquish error is to promulgate truth.
As it happened in the days of Moses, so may it
fare with the godly men who are endeavoring to
open the eyes of the deluded world to a milder and
a. sounder faith than they at present profess.
VOYAGE DOWN THE NILE. 129
At noon we passed Billien, a pleasant village
situated on the west bank, with numerous whitened
dove cots on the tops of the houses, and in the
evening arrived at Djirdja, Didjerdja, or Girgeh,
which is a considerable town, with many mosques,
and a Roman catholic convent. Here our inter-
preter joined ys, and mentioned that he had passed
a large temple like that at Dendera, between
Fardjout and Girgeh, nearer to the latter, and about
three miles from the river. It seemed to be very
entire, but much covered up with sand. Having
laid in a stock of bread, we started next morning,
the 17th, at ten o'clock. At one it began to rain,
and we had a smart shower, the first that we had
had since we entered Egypt. A little below Girgeh,
the mountain on the east bank approaches close to
the river, and contains many mummy pits and
doors well cut, in the front of the rock, evincing it
to have been an extensive settlement, in ancient
times, and well worth the attention of modern
travellers. A slight rain continued to fall during
the remainder of the day, and during the night it
poured through the ill-adjusted boards of the deck,
into our cabin. We stopt for the night a little way
above Ikhmim, which we passed next morning, the
18th, about nine o'clock. The day was cloudy
and cold; it cleared up considerably towards
noon, but the wind still continued high and con-
trary. About one we passed Sahait, where are
VOL. II. rr
130 VOYAGE DOWN THE NILE.
the remains of an ancient town, which we did not
stop to examine. We stopt all night at Almaragat,
a little above Sheikh Abadeh, on the opposite side
of the river.
Next morning, the 19th, the wind still continued
high and cold. A little above Sheikh Abadeh, we
perceived many large doors cut in the rock, which,
on visiting, we found to be extensive quarries of a
species of chalky lime-stone. The mountain is
high, and affords a delightful view of the verdant
and well-cultivated plain below. We passed Sheikh
Abadeh, about three o'clock, p. m. and the wind
being still high and contrary, we stopt a little
below it for the night. Next morning, the 20th,
we reached Gau Kubeer, or as it is named, Kau-
Alkharab, or ruined, about ten o'clock. On ex-
amining the stones of the temple and columns,
we found them to be of the same species of stone
as the quarry above mentioned, from which they
were probably taken. At Gau Kubeer there are
many Christians, and their place of worship is
about three miles off, in the desert.
We continued to glide down slowly, during the
greater part of the night, and next day arrived at
Osyout, about four o'clock p. m.
Our friend the Defterdar Bey still remained at
Cairo, governing in the absence of his father-in-law
the Pasha, who had gone to Alexandria; and Ahmet
Bey, the second in command, governed at Osyout
VOYAGE DOWN THE NILE- 131
in his absence; but as unlike to him as a moribund
drunken debauchee can possibly be to a healthy
and a sober man. His habits of life had at length
convinced him that he was not immortal. The
daily use of a bottle*of rum, a bottle of wine,
opium, tobacco, and other indulgences had brought
on a chronic dysentery, under which he had labored
for six months, and he now appeared the blighted
ghost of what he was. He sent, through his sur-
geon, Dr. Maruchi, a sensible and skilful man, to
request that I would call upon him. I complied
with his request; but what could physic do for
such a battered sot? I gave him my best advice,
which he seemed anxious to follow ; reformation of
his habits were indispensable to the success of any
plan; no constitution can stand both physic and
debauchery. He seemed willing to try every
thing that would prolong the lease of his existence,
for I believe he had not numbered thirty-five. He
promised every thing; I have not heard the result;
but I think it is more than probable that he has
long since entered upon another world to render
an account of his conduct to the great Physician
of souls.
From the consultation with the Bey we proceeded
to examine the excavations in the rock that lie in the
neighborhood of the town. The first into which
we entered was very large, and the roof of the
outer chamber cut in the form of an arch. It was
k 2
im
VOYAGE DOWN THE NILE.
covered with sculpture and hieroglyphics, which
are much effaced. The ceiling was chequered, and
of an azure color, which, in many places retained
all its original freshness; the whole mountain is
completely catacombed with excavations. We were
informed of two that were much larger, and much
more perfect, but at too great a distance in the
mountain for us to visit. We read in Diodorus
Siculus that there were a hundred stables between
Memphis and Thebes, each of them capable of
containing two hundred horses. Perhaps some of
these large excavations may have been devoted to
that purpose, and the hundred gates of Thebes,
Mentioned by Homer, each pouring forth two hun-
dred chariots of war, may have an allusion to the
number of stables that a command from Thebes
could empty of their horses, and not to the gates
of the city.
On the 23d, we resumed our voyage. The
morning, though cold, was much milder than it
had been for some days. The wind was light,
and we rowed on without any interruption. About
nine o'clock, we passed Mankobar, a pleasant village
on the we&t bank of the river; here we found
another gang of dervises at work in the midst of
a crowd of people whom they were gulling and
amusing with all the deceitful tricks of their kna-
vish profession. One of the greatest marks of
attention that a dervis can show a stranger, is to
VOYAGE DOWN THE NILE, 133
call upon the name of God for several times in
long deep hollow tones, and then to breathe upon
his face as long as he can without making an in-
spiration. The noble traveller and myself received
this holy afflation half whistled from the lips of
one of the most venerable of the corps in Thebes.
It should be remarked that he bestows his bene-
diction with more peculiar energy if he has pre-
viously touched a little money, and any person
who gives him a sixpence is sure to have the first
piaff, if others don't give more. About one o'clock,
we passed Menabad; the wind was moderate and
we rowed on cheerfully the whole of the day, and
in the evening arrived at Manfelout, which w7e left
.again early on the 24th; the wind was still low,
and for a short time we rowed on very pleasantly,
but in the .course of the forenoon became con-
vinced that for the size of our maashes &nd the
subsidence of the river, we had remained long
enough in Thebes. About half past eleven, we
stranded on a shallow that ran right across the
river, and after much exertion got off about four
o'clock. The mountain Aboufedda is perforated
here with numerous excavations near to which are
the extensive ruins of an ancient town, On the
morning of the 25th, we were late in setting off;
the wind was high during the early part of the
day, and we made but little progress, however it
fell towards evening and we rowed on in a spirited
134 VOYAGE DOWN THE NILE.
manner, and a little before sun-set passed the en-
trance of the Bahr JousoufF, which about 10,000
people were employed in deepening under the in-
spection of Turkish overseers, who seemed no wise
aversive to employ the lash. The deepening of
this river seemed to be a highly popular measure.
The Reis and sailors on board spoke of it with
the highest commendation, and were loud in the
praises of the Pasha for undertaking it. Any
scheme that will bring water to the doors of the
inhabitants all the year round, is sure to be popular
in Egypt. -
Next morning, the 26th, was calm, we rowed on
steadily andamvedatAlrairamounaboutoneo'clock,
where wTe were politely welcomed by Mr. Brine.
Having procured a sufficient number of asses, we
set out immediately to visit the ruined temple at
Oschmounein, which the height of the inundation
had prevented us from doing when we ascended
the river. We reached it after an hour's ride
through a fine, but partially cultivated plain; the
ruins here consist of decayed huts of sun-dried
brick, and are about a mile and a half in circum-
ference; but the great object that draws the tra-
veller to the spot are the ruins of what appears to
have been a magnificent portico; but we could
not discover any remains of a temple to which
it probably belonged, nor any tank for water near it.
Some people are therefore disposed to consider it
VOYAGE DOWN THE NILE. 135
as a triumphant monument; but I am not sure
that any such thing ever existed in Egypt, unless
we are to consider the propylons as such- It con-
sists of two rows of columns, six columns in each
row, with a flat stoite ceiling beautifully painted
and adorned with stars like that of the Memnonium.
The columns are reeded and uniform, covered with
sculpture and hieroglyphics, and are about nine
feet in diameter; the whole has been of excellent
workmanship, but now much disintegrated.
Next day, the 27th, we rode to Mellawi, which is
about two miles above Alrairamoun to pay a visit
to Sehag Bey the uncle of Mahomet Ali, the
Pasha, who is an old man of seventy years of age
in a very infirm state of health; he received us
with great civility, talked freely, but ignorantly as
might be expected, of the affairs of Europe. He
enquired whether England had made peace with
Algiers, or whether we had actually commenced
hostilities; whether Bonaparte was really a prisoner,
and if there were any chance of his escaping, and
many such unimportant questions that he ought to
have been as well informed about as we were.
On the morning of the 28th, we took our depar-
ture from Alrairamoun; and having rowed down
to Antinopolis, landed and took another view of
the ruins, from which we glided down to Metahara
where we remained for the night. Next morning
the 1st of March we started again at an early
136 VOYAGE DOWN THE NILE.
hour, and got on prosperously till about nine o'clock,
when our maash ran aground a little above Me-
nieh, and it was one o'clock before we got off.
Numbers of wild ducks, geese, pelicans, and cor-
morants were constantly flying about the river; with
plenty of pigeons, partridges and hares on shore. A
little below Menieh we stranded again, and in spite
of all the efforts of the Reisses and sailors, and all
their calling upon God and the prophet to assistthem,
we were obliged to pass the night in the middle
of the river. We disengaged ourselves by eight
o'clock next morning, but soon got fixt again,
though fortunately for us we did not remain long,
and there being but little wind we rowed on expedi-
tiously to make up our lee-way; by one o'clock
we were opposite Djbl Tair which is on the east bank
of the river. The mountain is high and rises pre-
cipitously from the stream. There is no village
on either side of the river \ but there is a Coptic
convent on the top of the mountain, and steps
formed in several places down the face of the rock
to the water, which I have no hesitation in saying
it must require an apprenticeship to qualify a
person to go either up or down. Several of the
holy brotherhood presented themselves on the top
of the rock, and in one place two of them, and in
another three came running down the cliff like so
many naked monkeys, plunged into the river and
swam to the vessels to ask for charity. They said
7
VOYAGE DOWN THE NILE, 137
their convent consisted of ten members; that they
were excessively poor and could hardly maintain
themselves 5 we certainly believed the accounts
of their poverty; they seemed a most miserable
collection of humar* beings, having more of the
spirit of beggarliness than of Christianity or good
manners, which ought to teach every man, who is
able to work to provide for himself* I consider the
common ditcher or water-drawer that lives upon his
hard-earned fare, a much more respectable being
than the idle, the praying and beggarly monk.
Nevertheless our hearts were not steeled at their
solicitations, and having obtained their mite they
scrambled up the rocks like so many naked cats,
and joined their brethren.
A little below the convent we stranded again
and were a second time under the necessity of
passing the night in the middle of the river. We
got oft' early next morning, the 3d, but the wind
being high we were unable to proceed by rowing,
and after floating down a little way we were obliged
to stop for the night.
We set out again at an early hour on the morn*
ing of the 4th. The wind at first was low, but by
micL-day it freshened so much that it was blowing
us quite up the river, and we were obliged to stop
for the night; next morning we found there had
fallen a heavy dew, which we were informed is
always the case so far down the river when there
138 VOYAGE DOWN THE NILE.
is a northerly wind, which is at least nine months in
the year; with the south wind there is no dew, and
at no time, they subjoined, is there any dew in
Thebes. This, however, we had found to be a
mistake, for in walking through the corn and grass
early in the morning to visit the statue of Memnon,
our shoes and stockings were completely wet with
dew; however, it may be safely affirmed that but
very little dew falls in Thebes. Neither is rain by
any means such a miracle as is stated by Herodotus.
Our countrymen, who had resided there for eighteen
months, informed us that they had seen it rain
pretty smartly 5 and there are many proofs in the
mountains of its having rained in torrents, which
however, it is said does not occur above once in
seven years.
We set off again at an early hour on the 5th. The
wind was at first low, but afterwards became so
high, and at the same time cold, that we stopt at
Sheikh Zeiadeh for the night; having made but
little way.
On the 6th we set off again at an early hour, but
the wind was two high for rowing; by seven
o'clock a.m. we were a breast of the tomb of
Sheikh Gedame, which stands on the top of the
mountain Goumet el Fahnel, on the east bank of
the river; but the wind freshened so much that
wre were obliged to stop at el Fent for the night.
On our taking a little exercise on the shore, the
VOYAGE DOWN THE NILE. 139
Arabs took occasion to remark on our quick walk-
ing, to which they have a particular aversion; they
say it may be tolerated in a little man, or a fool;
but that it is quite unbecoming, nay quite inad-
missible, in a tall man. They themselves are remark-
able for a grave dignified deportment, though not
quite so stately as their masters, the Turks. They
used to be particularly annoyed when they saw any
of us walking smartly; and perceiving our habits
in other respects different from theirs, they of
course never failed to prefer their own, and used
to ask if the Christian book allowed or desired us to
do so; imagining that nothing short of that could pos-
sibly have occasioned a difference between our habits
and theirs. As for example, that of never seeing
us say our prayers, or seeing us touch a dog or a
dead body without washing our hands, or the part
of our clothes that touched it; or not particu-
larly respecting the mat, or the place on which
they prayed. In short, as their whole conduct
was regulated by the rules of the sect to which
they belonged, or those laid down in their sacred
book, they imagined that every deviation from it
on our part, was the result of instructions derived
from a similar source.
There is much uncultivated land round el Fent,
covered with' a thin coat of sand, and a coarse
rushy grass. We set out early again on the morn-
ing of the 7th, and the wind being low we rowed
140 VOYAGE DOWN THE NILE.
on pleasantly to the village of Fougai, which we
reached about ten o'clock; when the wind having
got high we were obliged to desist from rowing,
and having floated down to el Atoua, a small viU
lage at the foot of a hill, on the top of which stands
the tomb of Shiekh Benour. Here there were
many villages in sight, and near us in the plain,
which is very extensive, but ill cultivated, immense
tracts lying perfectly waste, and covered with coarse
rushy grass.
We set off again at an early hour on the morning
of the 8th. The air was calm, #nd we rowed on
delightfully through a thick succession of smiling
villages surrounded with palm-trees, About ten
o'clock we passed el Wahm, # pleasantly situated
village on the west bank; and at noon we arrived
at Benesouef, which is also pleasantly situated on
the west bank, but surrounded with immense heaps
#f mud and rubbish that have been carried out of
the town. It contains a number of mosques and
minarets, with many souks or bazars, and has some-
thing like regular streets, which are rarely met
with in any of the villages in Egypt. In three
feoi^rs from this the traveller enters the Fayoum.
The latitude of Benesouef is 29.4,84 north, 59 miles
of latitude from Cairo. We rowed on for about a
couple of hours further, when the wind becoming
high, we stopt at four o'clock for the night, under
the shelter of a high bank. There was no village,
VOYAGE DOWN THE NILE. 141
On the 9th, we set off again at an early hour,
the country on the west now widens, and presents
a delightful prospect. About seven o'clock we
were opposite to Maimoun, and going on delight-
fully. It is an ordinary sized Egyptian village,
consisting of mud and straw-built huts, with white
pigeon-houses on the top, embosomed in groves of
palm-trees, with dogs, goats, asses, men arid child-
ren, lolling on the dunghills and heaps of rubbish;
and bands of females at the river, filling their
pitchers, washing their legs and arms, or moving
off in trains with their pitchers on their heads,
which they carry particularly well, and walk with
an uncommon ease and grace. About nine o'clock,
the first pyramid, Haram Asawee hove in sight,
looming on us over the plain as we passed the vil-
lage of Haggheh Shabatabi, or Shallabi. About
noon we passed the village of Riga, where many of
the doors were curiously painted in various colors
and devices, which we were informed was a proof
that the inhabitants had performed the pilgrim-
age to Mecca. This is a pious errand that every
Mussulman is enjoined to perform once in his life-
time, provided he have the means necessary to ac-
complish it. After which he obtains the title of
Hadji, of which he is not a little proud, and, to en-
able him to merit it, husbands his earnings with the
greatest care. About half-past four we saw two
other pyramids, bearing considerably west of the
143 VOYAGE DOWN THE NILE.
first, and further removed into the desart; but we
soon lost sight of them; they are called the false
pyramids.. The wind was favorable, and we were
enabled to set sail, and moved on joyfully during
the whole of the day, and in the evening stopt at
Cafr Liar.
We did not set off next morning till after sun-
rise. The groves of palm trees, the whitened tombs
of the Shiekhs, presented a delightful prospect to
cheer us on our way. Shortly after we had un-
loosed from the bank, our attention was roused by
the hallowed notes of devotion that pealed from a
cangia moving past us. It was full of Coptic and
Abyssinian Christians singing hymns, and keeping
time to the oars by which the vessel was impelled.
They were proceeding to Cairo, on their way to
Jerusalem, to be present at the feast of Easter.
The sun shone softly on the pilgrims. Their plain
and simple attire, their venerable and unaffected
deportment, the pious duty in which they were en-
gaged, and the no less pious errand on which they
were bent \ the springing grain, the smiling land-
scape, and the majestic river that bore them along,
gave an emphatic interest to the group of holy tra-
vellers. We were seized with amazement as they
passed, and felt as in the precincts of heaven. They
sung and rowed along, and were speedily out of
sight; like beings, who touched the world, yet
cared not for it.
VOYAGE DOWN THE NILE. I4c
In this better informed country we are not ac-
customed to attach any value to one place of prayer
above another: and the holy aspirations of the de-
vout Christian are equally welcome to the Hearer
of prayer, whether thfcy are offered up at the pole, or
under the line, on the summit of the loftiest moun-
tain, or in the bottom of the deepest valley; from
the centre of the holy city, from London, or the no
longer imperial Rome: all are the same; no place
can recommend a petition whose only vehicle is a
mediating Savior, and the ardor of devotion. Yet,
for all this, he is a callous Christian who has but
the same feelings for Jerusalem that he has for
other cities, or who would withhold his respect
from a humble pilgrim, though he may lament the
erroneous view that sends him on such an errand
of devotion, to perform in the holy city of Jerusa-
lem, what might be done with equal efficacy in his
parish church. A frail and finite being clings to
a spot: an Infinite pervades the mass, and is the
same in every part.
The wind was still favorable: these are the only
two days that we have had the wind from the south
during the whole of our voyage down the Nile.
To-day, however, we did not set sail, the river was
particularly broad, and there was considerable risk
of our running aground. The plain on the west
bank is still the most extensive. These several
mornings have been hazy; the tops of the moun-
144 VOYAGE DOWN THE NILE.
tains are visible above the mist, and the base of
them through it, while the middle is wrapt in ob-
scurity, and the sun looks abroad shorn of his
beams. The plain on the east side of the river is
narrow, covered with sand, and little cultivated.
The pyramid Asawee stands on an elevated base,
seemingly composed of heterogeneous materials.
It rises up like a tower and is different from the
other pyramids. The pyramids of Dahschour next
show their square massy tops through the haze,
which announce our approach to Memphis, the
ancient residence of kings; between them and the
pyramid of Asawee there are many sepuchral
mounds. The murky summits of the two large
pyramids first met our eye, next the smaller one
of unburnt brick, which showed of a darker hue,
and on a nearer approach we perceived that it was
considerably disintegrated, and seemed to lessen in
its dimensions. The crops look remarkably well;
they consist of wheat, barley, onions, lentils, and
a leguminous vegetable called helbe; it has a long
thin pod like french-beans, with a leaf like clover
and a feeble stem like vetches. The natives are
remarkably fond of it, and eat both pod and leaves
quite raw. Wherever the boats stop, the Reisses
and sailors all run ashore into the field and take
whatever they meet with, whether it be onions,
helbe, or sugar-cane; they pull and eat more like
a herd of black cattle than human beings.
PYRAMIDS OF DAH8CHOUR. 145
We next hove in sight of the pyramids of Sak-
kareh and soon observed the rapid gradations by
which one of them contracts to its summit. Be-
tween Sakkareh and JDahschour are numbers of
sepulchral mounds, some of which show at a con-
siderable distance^ and seem to have been pyramids;
but time has destroyed their angularity, and left
them like so many rounded tumuli, which appeared
the more insignificant the nearer we approached
them. Here we left the boats, which were ordered
to glide down to Mousganeh and stop for the night,
while we procured asses and proceeded to view the
pyramids of Dahschour, which lie about half a
mile to the north of the village of that name. The
cultivated plain here is narrow, and the rocky flat
is low and covered with sand. We measured the
largest of these pyramids which we found to be
691 feet, taking the measurement about thirty
paces out from the base, which we could not reach
on account of the rubbish that had fallen down at
the sides. It is cased with smooth flags of com-
pact chalky limestone which are joined by a cement
of lime without any mixture of sand; it slopes
up gradually to the height of fifty feet, then it
contracts suddenly and closes at about an elevation
of three hundred feet; it is not covered with
plaster, although it appears to be so on account of
the smooth white casing. The next pyramid we
found to be 704 feet base on the east side, and
VOL. II. l
146
PYRAMIDS OF DAHSCII0UR.
691 on the north, on a level with the base at thirty
paces distant. This pyramid, like most of the
others, has been opened, and is still accessible in
the interior; it contains a handsome chamber which
exactly resembles the dm wings that I have seen of
the treasury of Atreus, at Mycen^ It is lined with
large slabs of polished granite, each of which pro-
jects into the room about six inches further than
the one below it, and terminates nearly in a point
at the top, and looks something like a pointed arch,
though certainly not constructed on that principle.
Near to this stands the brick pyramid which we
did not measure. It is much fallen down on the
ttorth side, and looks as if the roof of one chamber
had given way and the walls fallen in; the bricks
are sun-dried and remarkably fresh ; they have been
taade of mud and cut straw* in the same manner
that bricks are made in Egypt in the present day.
The straw is required to give tenacity to the ma-
terial, which is a black, loamy, friable earth, and
-could not be easily formed into bricks without it.
Among the great ardor for Egyptian researches
that has prevailed in this country of late, it is rather
unaccountable that this pyramid should have been
so neglected, for, from the manner in which it is
mentioned by Herodotus, we should have imagined
that it would have been one of the fir&t that would
have been examined. This is probably the pyra-
mid of Asyches, the successor of Myeerinus, wfoo
PYRAMIDS OF DAHSCHOUIt. 147
was so much attached to brick, that he put on this
pyramid an inscription, declaring that it was as
much superior to those built of stone, as Jove was
to the rest of the deities. It would be curious to
observe how this lover of brick formed the roofs
of the passages and chambers of his pyramid. If
the arch were then known in Egypt, from such an
avowed predilection for the material of straw and
clay, I think we are almost warranted to infer that
he would employ it in preference to large flat stones,
as are done in the other pyramids. If, upon exa-
amination, the passages and chambers of this pyra-
mid should be found arched, then there is an end of
the question, whether or not the ancient Egyptians
possessed any knowledge of the arch? If, on the
contrary, they should be found covered with flat
stones, it would furnish a strong presumption that
the arch was not known in Egypt at that time.
There are also some brick pyramids in the Fayoum
which might be examined for a similar purpose.
In treating of the antiquity of the arch, I ought
to mention the vault which Semiramis is recorded
to have made under the bed of the Euphrates, in
order that she might pass from the palace on the
one side, to the palace on the other side, without
going over the river. These were built of brick,
and the walls were twenty bricks in thickness, and
twelve feiet high above the vault; they were built
of firm and strong brick, and plastered all over on
l 2
148 PYRAMIDS OF DAHSCHOUll.
both sides, with bitumen, four cubits thick. This
certainly is very like the description of a regular
masonic arch. But the Greek word employed by
Diodorus Siculus, whose description I refer to,
is Kanaka, translated by the Latin word fornix, or
testudo, which means a structure covered or rounded
above, in the form of an arch, but not constructed
on the principle of the arch. The rounded roof
of any walled space was denoted by the term
Kamara, the same by fornix, and testudo. It was
notnecessary that the component parts that rounded
this place, should depend mutually upon each other
for their support. Hence the definition of the word
arch is fornix suspensus, or a suspended fornix, or
vault; importing thereby, that the fornix was not
suspended by the principle of its own inherent
structure, but that each successive course pressed
upon the one below it, without being at all indebted,
or having any relation, to the key stone for its sup-
port. Hence, the structure pressing all round, both
on base and key stone, every part supporting
another, being quite a different thing in its power
and resiliency, from the fornix, or vault, such as we
have mentioned at northern Dair, in Thebes, or at
Gergenti, in Sicily, a new name implying its in-
herent energy, became necessary to express it, and
it was accordingly called, arcus or the bow, by
way of eminence. In support of this view of the
subject, it may be remarked, that there is not a
PYRAMIDS OF DAHSCHOUR. 149
word in the Greek language that can interpret the
Latin word arcus, in this acceptation. Hence we
may perhaps be allowed to infer that there was no
word to expressitin thelanguageof any of thenations
with which they were acquainted; and hence that
neither the principle nor the practice of the masonic
arch were known, till a late period, probably till
the time of Augustus Caesar. What gives addi-
tional probability to this interpretation of Semira-
mis's construction of the subamnian vault is, that
in the account of the magnificent bridge of five
furlongs in length, which she built across the Eu-
phrates, the term Kamara, fornix, or arch, is not
once mentioned; the support and pillars are men-
tioned, and the stones are mentioned as being
rivetted with iron hooks, fastened with melted lead:
and further that the bridge was joined by planks of
cedar, cypress, and palm-trees, of remarkable size;
a pretty intelligible statement, sufficient, I think, to
warrant us to conclude that no arch was employed,
or even understood at that time. Even the yk^ai
lefypEvai of Homer are to be considered as bridges
wrought of beams and abutments like the bridge
of Caesar across the Rhine, without the inter-
vention of the arch. The same term K*^^ is
employed in describing the hanging gardens, which
are said to have been built a long time after, by
her successor Cyrus. This brings us down to near
the age of Cambyses, a period of nearly 1400 years,
ISO PYRAMIDS OF DAHSCHOUR,
without any proof of the existence of a masonic,
arch* I do not consider the specimens of the arch,
given by Mr. Belzoni, at all bearing upon the
point which he wishes to establish. They are, with
all deference, in my opinion, but of recent date,
and were built to protect the tomb to which they
are attached; the wall round the orifice of the
open court, was built to keep out the drifting sand
from the people who lived in it, and the arch to
afford them ingress and egress to their habitation.
I regard it of a very recent construction and greatly
posterior to the time of the Romans. Probably
coeval with the brick huts that crowd the interior
of the temples, or the walls that encircle the ruined
convents. But enough of this subject for the pre-
sent: when the interior of the brick pyramids and
the ruins of Babylon are examined, we shall pro-
bably obtain more accurate information, both on
this and other important subjects of antiquity. I
think it more than probable that the abutments of
the above mentioned bridge still exist among the
ruins of Babylon; if these are found, then the
palace is found, and if the palace be found, so
may the entrance of the tunnel or subamnian pas-
sage above mentioned. With the discovery of
which, facts will commence and conjecture on this
siibject be at an end.
Leaving the pyramids of Dahschour, we pro-
ceeded along the rocky flat, which is covered with
METRAHENY. 151
pyramids of smaller dimensions, both of brick and
stone, some of which are so ruined as absolutely to
appear a perfect heap of dust, and regained th§ rozd
through the cultivated plain* Here we found ancient
avenues lined with the acacia on each side, and
passed a deep lake of large dimensions which might
answer to thefamed Acherusiain the neighbourhood
of the Egyptian capital. In a little time we reached
Metraheny, which is a considerable modern village,
attached to an immense field of ruins, supposed to
be part of the ancient Memphis. The sides of a
large square still remain enclosed with strong
mounds of earth like the strong embankment in
Thebes, at the village of El Barat near Medina
Thabou. In several places throughout the ruins,
are numerous fragments of granite covered with
hieroglyphics, and so exquisitely wrought as to
leave no doubt of their having belonged to some
public building.
Though no regular foundations can be traced
here, from the accumulation of rubbish, yet these
scattered fragments probably formed part of an
ancient temple, the most valuable parts of which
may now be sought for at Cairo, Alexandria, or
even in Rome itself. A contiguous tank, half full
of muddy water, adds probability to the conjecture*
The setting sun warned us to return to our boats.
Next morning, the 11th, after having received a
visit from the cachief, and a sick friend, we mounted
15& ABOUSIK.
our asses, and set out to continue our ride along
the edge of the desert to the pyramids of Gheeza,
where the boats were directed to wait for us at
night. The road for part of the way ran along
the edge of one of the mounds above mentioned.
This mound we were disposed to consider as part
of the embankment which Menes is said to have
built to the south of Memphis, to protect it from
the water of the Nile; but this we are informed
by Herodotus, was a hundred stadia, or about
twelve miles and a half from the city, which the
mound under consideration could not have been.
It is completely covered with palm-trees, and me-
rits a more patient examination than it has yet re-
ceived from any traveller. We proceeded across
the plain in a north west direction to the mountain,
and passed in our way several ancient causeways,
some deep canals, and the bahr Jousouif which the
laborers had not yet began to deepen at this quarter.
The plain exhibits many specimens of the finest
agriculture and excellent pasture, well stocked with
a most beautiful breed of black cattle. In looking
at them, a person would positively say that models
for Apis and Isis still existed in the country. The
rocky flat all the way between Sakkareh and Abusir
is covered with pyramids, some of them large;
but generally they are small. The large ones are
of stone; many of the small ones are of brick, and
appear to be from fifty to a hundred feet high.
ABOUSIR* 153
At Abousir there are Jhree large pyramids, but
apparently smaller than those at Sakkareh or Dah-
schour, and many tumuli around them. All along
the edge of the desert here, the eye is delighted
with the sight of much beautiful pasture, and the
tents of Bedoween Arabs spread in the field with
their flocks feeding around them; between it and
Sakkareh we passed over a well-formed avenue
lined with rows of acacia trees. The ground
sloped beautifully down to the plain, and called to
our minds the description of the site of the palace
of the kings of Egypt at Memphis. Abousir is a
small miserable village, situated upon the edge of
the desert, among sand and rubbish, the ruins of a
former village of the same name. The inhabitants
called it Abousir Said From this the rocky flat is
much covered with sand, and is less interesting till
we come near to the pyramids of Gheeza, which is
a distance of about three miles. The plain on the
right is extremely beautiful and well wooded, as is
frequently the case in Egypt, with the sites of an-
cient towns, and was so in Thebes till of late that
the trees have been all cut down. Cafr Sarai is the
first village after passing Abousir; it stands at a
distance on our right, in the plain which widens
considerably from the mountain range retiring in
a westerly direction. There are no villages on the
rocky flat; but near to the pyramids of Gheeza,
there are the remains of several, with many stones
3<54 PYRAMID OF CEPHRENUS.
ornamented with the usual sculpture and hiero-
glyphics of the ancient Egyptians. Here we ascended
the rocky flat, to take another view of these cele-
brated piles, and having made our way over many
wreaths of drifted sand that had volumed them-
selves up on the edge of the plain, we passed to
the south of the venerable sphinx, and speedily
reached their base. The natives having perceived
our approach, had collected round the pyramids,
and were ready with their torches to conduct us
into the interior of these gloomy mansions. This
second visit afforded but Jittle matter for further
reflection, only on passing the mouth of the well,
lord Belmore threw a stone into it, and the report
which its fall made on the ear was exactly the same
as if it had fallen into water. It may be difficult
to account for the effects produced; but we were
all sensible of it, and I mention it in vindication of
Dr. Daniel Clarke, who I have no doubt told accu-
rately what he heard.
On our return to the open air, the day being far
spent, we were going to mount our asses and pro-
ceed directly to the boats; but the Arabs crowded
round and informed us of the successful enterprise
of Mr. Belzoni in opening the second pyramid,
which Herodotus states to have been built by Ce-
phrenus. Rejoiced at the news we forgot the late-
ness of the hour, and proceeded to pay it a visit.
On approaching the entrance, which like that of
JPYRAMID OF CEPIIRENUS. 155
the largest pyramid, is on the north side, and strictly
in the centre, being at the same distance from each
angle, and about an equal height from the base,
we perceived the effects of his gigantic toil in the
immense stones that had been torn out and rolled
down in his first attempt to discover the regular
entrance. This effort, however, had proved unsuc-
cessful, and after much labor he found himself in
a false passage that had been made by previous
adventurers in the same research. Though baffled
here he was not discouraged; and, bent upon suc-
cess, returned to survey again the large pyramid,
and having ascertained more exactly than at first
the relation of its entrance to the angles and base,
he returned to apply the same ratio to that which
was now the subject of his operations; and here he
found that allowing the passages to the interior of
the pyramid to occupy the same situation in both,
his first calculation was wrong, and that he had at-
tempted to penetrate a few feet or yards further to
the west than he ought to have done. Stimulated
by this discovery, he commenced his operations with
renovated vigor in the spot which his calculation
indicated, which was a few yards to the east of the
former attempt, which was in the centre; and the
labor of a few days unsealed the entrance of this
long sought for passage to the interior of the py-
ramid of Cephrenus: and what a passage! about
three feet and a half square, lined above and below,
156
PYRAMID OF CEPHKENTJS,
and on each side with slabs of large-grained red
granite, polished as smooth as glass, and shining
with all the gloss of novelty, as if untouched by
either hand or foot, or unbreathed upon even by the
air itself since the day that the workman withdrew
his finishing hand. This discovery had been made
about ten days before our arrival, and Mr. Belzoni
had inscribed his name at the entrance, recording
that he had opened the passage into this pyramid,
on the second of March, 1818. Thus this enter-
prizing and ingenious antiquary, with the aid of
sixty Arabs, each working for the hire of sixpence
a-day, achieved in ten days' time what but a few
months before was considered as likely to occupy
as many months, and to require the enormous sum
of a£ 20,000. The passage descends for about 120
feet, at about an angle of 26°, where a moveable
slab of granite forms a portcullis and seems to bar
all further progress. Thus far the passage was per-
fectly clear, and the floor so smooth and slippery
that we could hardly keep ourselves from falling as
we descended. The portcullis having been raised
up, was supported upon stones, and admitted a free
access. From this point the passage proceeds in a
horizontal direction for 273 feet nine inches, and
is a good deal obstructed by stones and rubbish,
which appear to have accumulated by the opera-
tions to force an entrance, and terminates in a spa-
cious chamber of forty-six feet three inches long,
PYRAMID OF CEPHRENUS. 157
sixteen feet three inches-broad, and about twenty-
three or twenty-four feet high. The walls of the
chamber are scratched all round, and some Arabic
characters were found written upon it, which when
read, were found to contain the names of the
individuals who had formerly opened it; but with-
out any date, though from the circumstances pre-
viously mentioned in treating of the pyramids, it
probably took place in the ninth century.
In the middle of the floor, stands a sarcophagus
of large-grained red granite; it is eight feet seven
inches long, two feet six inches broad, two feet
five inches deep; the breadth of the edge is seven
inches and a half. It is a mighty odd configuration,
if made to contain the embalmed carcase of a bull.
The lid is quite entire, and the whole beautifully
polished, but without any hieroglyphics or ornament
whatsoever either on it or the chamber. The roof
of the chamber slopes up like that in the king's
chamber in the large pyramid. Returning from
this chamber, a passage leads down to a lower
chamber, from which it passes up at the same angle
as the one above, and terminates in the open air.
Having finished our examination of this unexpected
discovery, we mounted our weary asses and pro-
ceeded to Gheeza, where the boats were waiting
for us.
In regard to the site of Memphis, though
no regular outline of the town remains, I think
158 MOUHKNAN—rMEMOAT.
from another ride that I took over the field, I am
warranted in saying that there are sufficient evi-
dences in the plain, opposite to the rocky flat
which contains the pyramids of Dahschour, Sak-
kareh, and Abousir, to authorize us to place it
there. The ruined mounds and walls at Metra-
heny have already been mentioned, and probably
formed the southern extremity of the city. Con-
siderably to the north of this is the village of
Mouhknan, where there are also many fragments of
granite, granite columns, aquaeducts built of Roman
brick, and covered with broad flat stones on the
top, a Roman bath about twelve feet square, and
two large tanks of water, indicating that the gra-
nite columns had once formed part of an Egyptian
temple. Farther to the north near a village called
Memoat, there are many pits for water-wheels built
with Roman brick, and many large granite sarco-
phagi filled with water for the cattle to drink out
of, and remarkably well-built aquseducts conveying
the water all over the plain in different directions.
All of them constructed with burnt brick, joined
with a cement of lime and mostly arched above.
Other vestiges are still to be seen; as a large mound
-of earth at Memoat, as if it were part of the
northern wall of Memphis, and I think it not im-
probable that it was so. The distance between
that and Metraheny being between three and four
miles or perhaps more; and I have no doubt that
RETURN TO CAIRO. 1.59
many more traces of the ancient city would be
found on a more minute and careful examination
of the plain than it was in my power to make.
If an account were taken of all the villages that
now occupy this interesting site, some one might
be found whose name approaches nearer the original
name of the city, than those of Mouhknan or
Memoat; although it must be allowed that these
are quite as near to the word Memphis, as Stambul
is to Constantinople. There are no remains about
the village of Gheeza that can for a moment support
its claim to be the site of Memphis. Admitting
the site of this great city to have been as above
stated, the burial-ground of both kings and people,
and gods, lay alongside of the town, as it did in
Thebes and other ancient cities; and the pyramids
of Gheeza extend between three and four miles
beyond, that is to the north of the precincts of
the town, as Strabo affirms they did, in whose time
Memphis was the second city in Egypt.
About eleven o'clock a. m. on the morning of
the 12th, we loosed from Gheeza and dropt down
to Boulak, a distance of between two and three
miles, the port from which we had sailed about
four months and a half before on the expedition
which I have attempted to describe; having in
that period performed a voyage of nearly seven
hundred miles up the Nile, and returned all in
160 RETURN TO CAIRO.
health and safety, as happy to step on shore as we
had been impatient to step on board. The luggage
which we meant to carry along with us was speedily
unpacked and conveyed to our former residence,
the house of the consul-general in Cairo; the rest
consisting of antiquities and such other articles as
had been collected in the course of our excursion,
was carefully packed up, and sent in a vessel to
Alexandria to be forwarded to England.
[ 161 ]
CHAPTER XVIL
PREPARATIONS FOR GOING TO SYRIA EXCURSION TO
METARIEH WHERE WAS THE LAND OF GOSHEN?
THE QUARRIES OPPOSITE TO MEMPHIS, &C.
It behooved us now to use every possible despatch
in preparing to set out on our Syrian expedition.
During our absence from the capital of Egypt,
our beards and mustachoes had thriven so luxuri-
antly under the fostering influence of the tropical
sun, which had browned our complexions to such
a degree, that but for the stiffness of our joints,
and our tongues betraying us, we might have passed
for natives. Our clothes and shoes too, which were
mostly in tatters by crawling into the tombs and
caves of the rocks, and by walking almost con-
stantly among sand and stony fragments, required
to be refitted. Such of us also as had not assumed
the dress of the country, it behooved to lay aside
their European robes, and disguise themselves in the
oriental costume. For though in Egypt a Euro-
pean may walk about unmolested in his close
.fitting garments, yet still he is an object of curi-
osity and sometimes of dread; but the aversion
to the European attire is much greater in Syria,
where it is even looked upon with a sort of disgust.
VOL. II.' m
162 SEASON OF THE PLAGUE.
The plague, that terrible scourge of the eastern
world, had not yet paid its annual visit to the ca-
pital of Egypt; but it had begun its ravages in
Alexandria, Rosetta, Damietta, and all along the
coast, from which it was expected to travel speedily
to the interior. The time of its usual visit was
nearly arrived, the feast of Ahmet the Bedowin,
which was to be held in a few days at Tante in the
Delta. To this annual festival Mussulmans re-
sort in crowds from Cairo and all parts of Lower
Egypt, and meeting there with the pilgrims and
visitors from the coast, imbibe the contagion, and
carry it back with them to their respective homes.
From that time it continues to rage more or less in
the country, till the rising of the Nile arrests its pro-
gress, and restores health and spirits to the dismayed
and afflicted inhabitants* The months of April, May,
and the beginning of June are peculiarly fraught
with death and distress to the inhabitants of
Caphtor, or Lower Egypt. It is seldom that the
plague visits Upper Egypt, and still more rarely that
it arrives at Assouan. During the time of the
inundation the hearts of the people expand with de-
light. Every thing is health and gaiety, they forget
that they are slaves, and riot in unbounded joy.
When the inundation subsides, the season for
Ophthalmia commences, occasioned by the evapora-
tion from the damp extensive surface, and the
long continuance in the field, for preparing the
ground to receive the seeds of the barley, the
OF THE DEPARTURE OF THE ISRAELITES, l6S
wheat, and the flax. The barley and flax are no\tf
far advanced, the former is in the ear and the latter
nearly boiled, and it seems to be about this season
of the year that God brought the plague of thunder
and hail upon the Egyptians to punish the guilty
Pharaoh, who had hardened his presumptuous heart
against the miracles of Omnipotence. Every thing
in Egypt is interesting; every blade of grass, and
every tree, every drop of water, and every grain
of dust, man and beast, and holy light, had all been
made to testify in a wonderful degree the displea-
sure of the Almighty at the pride and obstinacy
of the ruler of the land. This was the country
of conquerors, philosophers, and artists, when al-
most all the other nations of the globe were buried
in ignorance and slavery. Many monuments of her
grandeur still remain upon the soil, others are
carried off arid are shown with wonder in every
£6uritry lincter Heaven. A temple is the pride of
Athgri§, an amphitheatre the boast of ancient
Roni£; but Egypt from end to end, and from side
to side, from the mouth of the Nile to the second
c&tafact, a distance of nearly a thousand miles, is
a field of inexhaustible wonder and delight to th£
traveller.
During the time that was neeess&rily employed
in making provision for the journey to Syria, by
the desert of Suez, an opportunity was afforded u£
of taking rides in the neighbourhood to visit sad!
M"2-
164 METARIEH.
places of interest as we had not already seen.
About five miles to the north of Cairo lies the vil-
lage of Metarieh, close to the ruins of the ancient
city of On, the city of the Sun, of which Poti-
pherah, the father-in-law of Joseph, was priest.
On our way thither we went out by the gate el
Fatou, which is near to the Metba, or shambles,
passed the tombs of the Arab shiekhs, that crowd
the rocky flat on this side of the river, as the an-
cient tombs did that on the other side. In about
three quarters of an hour we came to Koub el
Gourli, a small village, so called, from the name of
a shiekh, whose tomb it contains: proceeding a
quarter of an hour further we came to Metarieh,
which contains about 600 inhabitants, and is dis-
tant from Cairo about an hour and a quarter, or
four miles. Close to Metarieh are the ruins of the
once celebrated and populous On, the Heliopolis
of the Greeks, whose wilful absurdity in changing
the names of ancient places, by translating them
into their own language, has created much confu-
sion in respect to the situation and identity of
many of them. The ruins of On, or Heliopolis,
are in the form of a square, about a mile and a
half in circumference; they consist chiefly of
houses of unburnt brick, which I mention only to
show that they are of the same description with the
ruins in Upper Egypt; in the midst of this square
grew a crop of common beans, not remarkable
RUINS OF ON. 16-5
either for luxuriance or fecundity; but they showed
that the doctrines of Pythagoras were not now
acted upon in the place where he had learned them.
In the midst of this field of beans stood a venerable
obelisk, of large-grained red granite, towering to
the height of 70 feet, eight feet square at the base,
and covered with hieroglyphics from top to bot-
tom. . The inscription is the same on each of the
sides. The obelisk is eroded by the destroying
hand of time in several places; but is upon the
whole very entire. It bears the mark of the water
of the Nile about five feet above its base, the height
to which it ascends in the time of the inundation.
To the west of the obelisk, and without the pre-
cincts of the inundation, are the fragments of an
ancient colossal statue, of the same species of crys-
talized quartzy sand-stone as the statue of Memnon
in Thebes, so frequently mentioned; and near to
it a pedestal of large-grained granite, several masses
of which lie scattered about; but no substructions
of any regular ancient building are perceptible.
These are all the remains of the ancient Heliopolis,
or the still more ancient On, the city of the Sun.
The fragments of the houses and walls of the city,
both from the freshness and the quantity of burnt
brick among them, appear to be of a more modern
date, and are probably Roman. Yet these simple
relics deeply affect the mind, and carry it far into the
postern of time long elapsed, when Joseph served
166 LANJP 0^ G'OSUKN.
$n officer of Pharaoh, languished ip prison under
an unjust accusation, or ruled in power by the ap-
pointment of the Sovereign, and fed the starving
uations out of the stores which his foresight had
enabled him to accumulate y when Pythagoras and
Plato studied philosophy under the priests of Egypt,,
and carried home their intellectual stores to instruct
their benighted contemporaries in the learning and
science of this wonderful people.
Here we are naturally tempted tQ enquire, Where
was the land of Goshen, where neither blight nor
murrain fell upon the cattle or the fields, where?
neither the fly, nor the locusts, nor any plague*
molested their habitations; where the destroying
angel sheathed his sword, and passed over the land,,
leaving the inhabitants in tranquillity and sunshine,
when darkness, dismay, and death, fell upon their
oppressors? It might have been imagined, that the
scene of such miraculous events would never have
been forgotten; that temples would have been
erected therein to worship the God of Israel, and.
th#t the infant babe would have been taught to
lisp in, his earliest numbers tfce name of the hallowed
spot. But here history is silent, and conjecture is
of little avail. Nations are slow to record their
Q\yn punishment and disgrace: the plague^ were
removed, the heart of Pharaoh was hardened, and
ti^e register of the place and event ceased to exist
i& tfiq Jand. Withput pretending to solve tjie ques*
LAND OF GOSHEN. 167
tion completely, we may merely observe, that the
land of Goshen was near to the residence of Pha-
raoh, which probably was in the capital. Two
cities have been stated by critics as being the capi-
tal of Egypt in the days of Joseph, Memphis and
Zoan, or Tanis, as the septuagint version of the
Holy Scriptures has rendered it. In support of
the former are alleged its size and convenient situa-
tion, and the concurring testimony of chronologers
in dating its foundation several hundred years ante-
rior to the arrival of the Israelites in Egypt. It
is said to be known in Scripture by the names of
Noph and Menoph. Out of the latter, a Greek
would be under no difficulty of forming Memphis;
and it is mentioned in such terms as to induce us
to believe that it was the capital of the country at
that time. Goshen was near to it, as we learn
from the same sacred record. There is a consider-
able portion of the name in the word Gheeza, which
is the district that contains Memphis; there is also
near it a town, called Ramasi, lying between it
and the pyramids of Gheeza: this was the name
of one of the towns which the Israelites built for
Pharaoh, and the name of the place from which
they took their departure in going out of Egypt.
It is not stated that they passed the Nile in their
march, but I do not think that wre are thence war-
ranted to infer that they did not, for the people
were urgent to send them away, and the passing of
168 ZOAN TUJ£ ANCIENT CAPITAL,
the river would have been no obstruction of con-
sequence, though it might have occasioned a little
delay. The claim set up for Tanis or Zoan rests
upon equally high authority j the statement of the
Psalmist in the 78th psalm, of the miracle of Moses
before Pharaoh, having been performed in the field
of Zoan, and of Isaiah, in the 19th chapter of his
Prophecy, mentioning the princes of Zoan before
the princes of Noph. These statements, however,
only prove that there were princes of Zoan, and
princes of Noph, who were counsellors of Pharaoh,
and that at each of these places there was a royal re-
sidence, as there are at present in the same country,
Beys or princes of Cairo, Osyout, Esneh, and
other places; the Pasha may reside occasionally at
either, though Cairo alone is the capital of the
country. The great difficulty, in my opinion, has
arisen from referring the site of Zoan to that of
Tanis, on the lake of Menzaleh, and not to that of
Tanta, Sais, or Sin, in the Delta. Here we learn
from Herodotus, that the ancient kings of Egypt
resided, here they were buried, here they had their
most magnificent temples, here was their principal
seat of learning and science; all which circum-
stances argue in favor of this being the Zoan
mentioned in Scripture, where Moses performed his
miracles before Pharaoh, and of its having been
the ancient capital of the country before Memphis
was built, or before Upper and Lower Egypt were
EXCAVATIONS ABOVE OLD CAIRO. 1G0
•
united into one kingdom, perhaps when the valley
of the Nile was divided into a number of petty
states, each having its own king and constitution,
and when the Delta alone enjoyed the appellation
of Egypt, having Africa on the one side, and Asia
on the other, but belonging to neither. The first
sovereign of the whole country from Migdol to
Syene was probably the founder of Memphis, so
conveniently situated for all parts of his dominions.
Gheeza is near to On, which corresponds with the
statement of Joseph to his brethren, "You shall
be near unto me." Hebron was built seven years
before Zoan, in Egypt. This view of the subject
will be considerably illustrated by referring to the
Chapter on Dendera.
Another ride that we took during this prepara-
tory interval, was to visit the excavations in the
rock, a little above Old Cairo, on the east side of
the river, opposite to the site of ancient Memphis.
The rock here consists of a chalky limestone, con-
taining fewer shells and acini than the rock on the
west side of the river, and therefore, I do not think
that the stones for building the pyramids were taken
from them. The excavations are large and nume-
rous, and seem to have been chiefly quarries, and
probably yielded the stone for building Toura,
Babylon, Old Cairo, and some smaller towns in the
neighbourhood. The sepulchral excavations are
probably referable to the inhabitants of the same
towns, rather than to those of Memphis, whose
170 EXCAVATIONS ABOVE OLD CAIRO.
burial ground, as has been already stated, was in
the rocky flat, on which the pyramids stand, on the
west side of the river. From the roof of one of
these quarries my friend Osman, who accompanied
me, copied an inscription in the cursiff or enchorial
character; but which it is unnecessary to print,
because no person can read it. These tombs merit
a more careful examination than they have yet re-
ceived, or than I had time to give them. They
were connected with those settlements which the
Egyptians permitted the fugitives from Babylon
and Troy to form among them, and it would be
found that they contain the tombs of these different
nations cut, inscribed, and adorned in the language,
and after the fashion of their country, and fit to be
put in competition with other Phrygian, Babylon-
ian^ and Jewish sepulchres. No Persian, Greek,
or Roman sepulchres of consequence have hitherto
been discovered in Egypt.
On our return to Cairo, by the river side, we
observed a little above the village of Kater Nebbe
the remains of an old pier on each side of the river,
with numerous fragments of granite, stones, and
pottery-ware, probably indicating the place where
the granite, and other columns of Memphis, and
the stones of the above mentioned quarries, had
been embarked on the Nile for Cairo or Alexan-
dria. This place is a little below the village of
Toura,, the, ancient Troja, which was founded by
a migration of Trojans from Asia Minor. Next to
UNIVERSITY OF CAIRO. V/l
*
Kater Nebby is Massera, then Old Cairo, pleasantly
situated on the east bank of the Nile, and greatly
surpassing the present capital in point of the salu-
brity of its situation, as well as in its convenience
for the shipping and trade of the river. From this,
three quarters of an hour carried us past the ele-
gant tombs of the Mamelukes, replaced us in Grand
Cairo, and closed our researches in this most inter-
esting country, anciently so great that its monu-
ments are worth travelling from the world's end to
examine; but now so fallen, that generation passes
away after generation, as one drift of sand suc-
ceeds another in the desert, without leaving any
thing to benefit those that come after them, or for
future ages to behold and admire.
A few days before leaving Cairo, I was informed
that besides the discourses on law and language,
which I have mentioned, were delivered weekly in
the mosque of Azhar, there are also delivered in
the same place regular courses of lectures on thirty-
Oixe different branches of science, that is thirty-
three in all. Mathematics, Astronomy, Natural
Philosophy, Chemistry, Botany, Theology, Meta-
physics, Moral Philosophy, &c. &c. I never met
with any of the professors or students, and shall
only say of the university of Cairo as a celebrated
French wit did of another university: "C'est \m
£r$s bqn enfant, on n§ p&rle jamais d'elle/'
[ 172 ]
CHAPTER XVIII.
DEPARTURE FROM CAIRO—JOURNEY TO, AND ARRIVAL
AT, JERUSALEM,
When the soul looks earnestly to Heaven, it vacates
all earthly enjoyments, and when the traveller sets
his face to go to Jerusalem, he will not find much
to detain him in Cairo. From the greater good to
the less we descend with reluctance ; but from the
less to the greater the heart bounds with joy.
According to the arrangement with the shiekh of
the caravan, the horses, the asses, the camels, and
the dromedaries arrived at the consulate on the
25th of March, took on their burdens, and at two
o'clock p. m. we left this city of Saracenic enchant-
ment, and proceeded on our journey to Palestine.
It was not possible to procure a sufficient number
of horses for all the party. The Turks and Arab
shiekhs have them for their own use, but not to
hire. The shiekh of the caravan accommodated
the noble traveller with his own dappled steed, and
procured another to carry one of our English sail-
ors, who held the youthful traveller before him.
Lady Belmore and the rest of the party were ele-
gantly mounted on Egyptian ponies, which were as
DEPARTURE FI.OM CAIRO. 173
•
loud in their bray as they were long in their ears.
The men-servants mounted the camels, and travel-
led along with the luggage. The two shiekhs were
mounted on dromedaries, and one of them travelled
along with us in the van, the other brought up the
baggage in the rear. Such a procession in England
would be gazed upon with astonishment; and, like a
London Lord Mayor's show transferred to the capi-
tal of Egypt, w7ould form an era in the annals of
spectaculation. In Cairo, however, it is but a com-
mon exhibition, and we passed on without interrup-
tion, or danger of being swallowed by the mouths
of the multitude.
The most useful appendage to our saddles wras a
tin flask, which contained about three pints of wTater.
It should be covered with leather over a wadding
of cotton, and if wTet every morning when filled,
and attached to the shady side of the saddle, will
keep the water cool and pleasant for drinking dur-
ing the whole of the day. If completely in the
costume of the country, in addition to the flask at
the saddle, the traveller should have a brace of
pistols stuck in the left side of his belt, a dagger or
sekeen in the right, a sword slung round his should-
ers, with a flint and steel, a piece of amadou in his
pocket or katab, and a bag of tobacco in the breast
of his caftan. Thus accoutred, with a haversack
slung across the saddle, stuffed with bread, onions,
and cheese, a small tin pot, a cup, and some coffee,
174 JOURNEY TO SALEHItYEH.
With a petsiali or travelling carpet, which i§ about
the size of a hearth rug, folded beneath him, to
spread upon the ground when he lights to repose,
the traveller shoulders his pipe, smokes, and muses
along at the rate of three miles an hour; having
rested a little in the heat of the day, he resumes his
journey again in the afternoon, and continues it till
sun-set, and thus in one unvarying round till he
reaches his destination.
Mr. Walmas, of the house of Messrs. Briggs,
Sch.ut2 and Walmas, who had been extremely use-
ful and civil to us during the whole time that we
remained in Egypt, and Mr. Assis, the interpreter
of the consul-general, accompanied us a little way
out of toWn, when they bade us adieu, and we pro-
ceeded in company with our friend, Mr. Belzoni,
to Koub el Gourli, which is about three miles
from Cairo, where we found our tents spread, our
dinner prepared, and we stopt for the night.
Next morning, the 26th, we rose with the sun,
breakfasted, and prepared to set off immediately;
but so great was the delay in loading the camels,
owing to their charging only one at a time, that it
was past eight o'clock before we moved from our
encampment. At length we proceeded forward
along the edge of the desert. In about half an hour
We passed to the east of Metarieh. Here we parted
with Mr. Belzoni, who went to take a view of the
contiguous ruins of Heliopolis* In two hours there-
JOURWEY TO SALEHIYYKH. 1^5
after we came to Hanghe, having passed on our
right the Birket el Hadj, or lake of the pilgrims,
at which there is a considerable village, surrounded
with palm-trees, where the pilgrims assemble pre-
vious to their setting out for Mecca. Hanghe is a
large and well-built village, on the edge of the de-
sert, where it was our intention to have stopt the
night before; but the men who preceded us with
the tents, mistook the direction of the shiekh, and
we were compelled to shorten our journey as above.
About one o'clock we reached Abousal, where we
encamped for the night: though anxious to pro-
ceed we found it impossible. There was no place
within six hours that possessed equally good water;
and considering that it wras the wisest plan to ac-
custom both ourselves and our animals to the tedi-
ous journey before us, by making short stages at
the commencement, as soon as the camels arrived
the tents were pitched, and we got for a little time
under shelter from the sun. All is rock and sand
where we repose; but the cultivated fields, andnume-
rous villages surrounded with trees, are contiguous.
The Bedoueen Arabs are encampt beside us in the
desert. They pay tribute to the Pasha of Egypt.
Then; females are an active good-looking race of
women. They wear a dingy white or red colored
veil, and are rather on a larger scale than the Arab
females of the towns, for whom they entertain a
most sovereign contempt. The latter wear a black
176 JOURNEY TO SALKHIYYEH.
veil about a foot broad, which descends below the
knee, and is attached over the forehead, in the
same manner as that of the Bedoueens.
On the morning of the 27th, we found that our
cavalcade had considerably increased. A number
of pilgrims, both male and female, going to Jeru-
salem; merchants travelling to Sidon and Damas-
cus; and soldiers, in the Albanian costume, going
to Jerusalem and Bagdadt, all joined our caravan,
for protection, so that we had now a formidable
appearance* We set off about seven o'clock. The
road lay partly through the desert, and partly
through the cultivated fields. Of the villages,
Zamle is extremely beautiful, surrounded with good
cultivation, plenty of woodland water formed into
numerous lakes and canals, winding round the
village, and through the groves, in every direction.
We continued our journey this day for seven hours,
and stopt at Bilbeis, where there has formerly been
a large town, called Pharbethus, according to D*
Anville. It is pleasantly situated on an eminence,
beside a considerable mound of ruins. There is
plenty of good water, at a mile distance; but that
at Bilbeis is brackish. Our journey, on the 28th,
was much the same in point of scenery; one time
along the desert, another time among the villages,
and cultivated fields. We passed through Cait,
wrhich very much resembled Zamle, fpr the abun-
dance of wood and water. We stopt a short time
ARRIVAL AT SALEHIYYEH. 177
at Garain, where there is plenty of good water,
and then proceeded forward to Hatarah, where we
pitched our tents for the night, having travelled
seven hours. We moved from Hatarah next morn-
ing at seven o'clock, and at nine passed El Heskar,
where there is plenty of good water, and fine pas-
ture, but decidedly desert; we next came to
Heyad, where there is also fine pasture, and plenty
of Nile water, and at noon, arrived at Salehiyyeh.
This is the last town that the traveller stops at
in Egypt, on his way to Syria, by the desert of
Suez. Here we pitched our tents, and immediately
began taking in bread and water, and other provi-
sions necessary for our journey. We had no sooner
lighted than a poor ill-looking, ill-dressed man,
calling himself a Shiekh, with a miserable pipe in
his hand, came and sat down beside us. Seeing
us annoyed with the impertinent contiguity of such
amass of filth and vermin, one of the camel drivers
desired him to withdraw. But our unwelcome
visiter kept his seat, and retaliating on his adviser,
upbraided him for his effrontry, in presuming thus to
address an Arab shiekh. The fellah had not a word
to utter in his defence; our living nuisance, how-
ever, soon retired of his own accord, and on refer-
ring to my pocket, I found that I had been eased of a
small leather case, containing a flint and steel, and a
bit of amadou, with which I could easily dispense.
The women brought down from the village,
VOL. II. n
178 JOURNEY ACROSS THE DESERT.
bread, and onions, and other provisions, of which
our fellow travellers laid in a plentiful store. The
water for our journey was mounted on the backs
of camels, in skins and earthen-ware jars. The
latter are the best vehicles, for they carry the water
without imparting to it any disagreeable taste,
which the skins always do, especially if they have
not been previously used, and there is then a chance
of their having been damaged. The jars are more
liable to be broken, and are more expensive; besides
from the imperfect manufacture in that country,
they are porous, and ooze out their contents.
However, to make sure of having abundance of
this valuable article, the noble traveller gave
orders to take enough in both ways. In every
stage of this desert, there is water for the animals,
for washing, and even for cooking; so that we only
required to carry what we should want for drinking
and for making coffee. Next morning, the 30th,
at seven o'clock, we left this ancient land of corn,
and idolatry, and set out again upon our journey.
From Salehiyyeh, the road plunges immediately into
the desert. We are surrounded with sand on all
sides > but the whole surface is firm, and yields
but little to the foot, being cemented by tufts of
grass, and small shrubs springing up in great pro*
fusion. A thick grove of palm-trees, stretched
along on our left, and accompanied us for about an
hour. In another hour we were quite out of sight
DESERT OF SUEZ. 179
of it; by ten o'clock the deep sand had abated;
we passed over a high bank covered with a shrub,
like the dwarf cedar, and got into a pleasant path.
On our left, at a considerable distance, lay an ex-
tensive sheet of water, which the reis or shiekh of
the caravan informed us was from the Nile. The
road here was low, and covered with a white efflo-
rescence, which on examination we found to be
common salt. In other places the ground was quite
wet, when the sun had not been sufficiently power-
ful to dry the salt from the deliquescing dews of
the night. Here we met an Arab, well armed, and
well mounted on horseback, attended by a man on
an ass, and two men walking. A little way after
them, came up a caravan, consisting of six camels,
and seven riders. The road continued nearly the
same, and the prospect all around was sand mixt
with heath and shrubs, till about one o'clock, when
we arrived at Gantara, and our guide throwing him-
self upon the sand, said, this is the first day's jour-
ney from Salehiyyeh; but I will go further if you
please. Here there is a large well of brackish
water of which the animals drank freely, and
seemed to relish it. About an hour after our
arrival the camels came up. Our tents were imme-
diately pitched, and we retired to the shady side
of the tent, which is cooler than the inside. Each
little party gathered sticks, lighted their fires, and
commenced cooking their victuals. All behaved
N 2
180 DESERT OF SUEZ.
quietly, and retired to rest at an early hour. We
enjoyed the evening in conversation, or in walking
about among the sand, and generally by nine gave
ourselves up to repose.
Next morning, the 31st. we began our march at
the same hour, winding slowly over a high mound
of sand, and down by the salt water lake which we
had seen the day before. The road for a consider-
able way was covered with a white efflorescence,
which seemed like hoar frost on the ground.. A
quantity of brushwood grew along the edge of the
lake, and up the hollow dell, under which a num-
ber of wild ducks and other water-fowl had taken
shelter. The starting of two or three of them
roused the sporting blood of the party; the muskets
were instantly seized, and the cover attacked; but
we soon tired of beating up the thicket, and re-
sumed our march, without having diminished the
number of its inhabitants. At nine o'clock we
crossed a pool of salt water, and shortly thereafter
came to an old ruined bridge, where we made a
detour to the left, and crossed a long winding pool
of salt water, about the breadth of an ordinary
canal, and so deep that we had all to abandon our
asses, and mount the dromedaries of the shiekhs;
but little satisfied at being hauled so often through
the pool, as was necessary to transport the whole
of the party. This canal bounded a beautiful ver-
dant spot, covered with flowers and shrubs, and
DESERT OF SUEZ. 1 81
had there been any fresh water near, would pro-
bably have been enlivened with the residence of
several families. We now proceeded along an
excellent road, banked with sand on each side;
and about ten o'clock, crossed another part of the
same deep ditch which wound round to enclose
this favoured spot, which might answer to the
Rhinocorura, to which Actisanes, the conqueror of
Egypt, banished the patriots, even then called in-
surgents, whose noses he cut off. In about another
hour we crossed a third pool, which, however, we
were able to do upon our asses, About one o'clock
the road became extremely heavy from the depth
of sand which was at the same time very uneven.
About three o'clock, we passed several clumps of
trees, and at four, arrived at the next halting place,
which is called Gatsallakh.
This had been a most fatiguing day's ride under
a burning sirocco wind from morning to night. AVe
were afraid that the dreaded chamsin winds had
set in; but our guide assured us, with the certainty
of fate, that they woidd not commence for a fort-
night. The poor pilgrims who were travelling with
a small quantity of water, and anxious to husband
it lest accident should detain us longer in the de-
sert than we expected, or who carried no flask
along with them, and had kept up with us a great
way a-head of the camels, came toiling up with
parched lips, flushed face, and turgid eyes, like to
start from their sockets, and begged if we had any
182 DESERT OF SUEZ.
water, to give them a little to cool their mouths.
It was impossible to be deaf to such a request, how-
ever much we might wish to husband our store ,
and yet there was no cause for apprehension, for
we had more than enough; but under the idea that
it would fall short, even those of the party who
might be considered as the best entitled to indulge,
had we been on short allowance, obstinately held
out, and though pressed, and really in want of it,
denied themselves the gratification, lest a more
urgent period should arrive, when a drop of water
would be called for as if to save a life. Often have
I seen the flask of water pushed away by the hand
when ■ I well knew the parched throat required its
quenching aid. It was impossible to see and not
to admire the feeling and spirit that dictated the
resolution, or ever to forget the countenance that
spoke the need of the beverage that the hand
put by.
On our arrival at Gatsallakh we stopt in a low
wind-swept valley, beside a precipitous sand-bank,
that towered above our heads to the height of 100
feet, Here, however, we were told there was water,
though to our longing and inexperienced eyes,
every inch of surface was covered with dry sand,
without the slightest indication of the fluid below.
Our flasks were all drained, and we lighted, and
laid ourselves down on the sand, wishing for the
arrival of our camels to bring us a fresh supply.
Meanwhile, as we were admiring the operations of
DESERT OF SUEZ. 183
the industrious beetle rolling his ball over the
smooth surface of the desert, the shiekh of the
caravan began to clear away the arenaceous accu-
mulation from a very unlikely spot, which, how-
ever, soon discovered signs of water beneath. He
then proceeded to deepen the excavation by bas-
keting out the sand, singing at the same time an
appropriate Arab tune to these words, "Allah a
ma wil fater," and was answered in the same strain
by the person who carried it away from him, "El
Moye ta wil hater/5 which was interpreted to mean
"God, we give thee praise, and do thou give us
water." Thus they continued digging and singing
for about ten minutes, when abundance of the
wished for fluid flowed amain. At the joyful sight,
men, women, dogs, and asses, all crowded round,
eager to dip their lips in the wave. It was handed
round, basin after basin, as fast as they could be
emptied and filled. We all drank of it, and though
it was muddy and brackish in the extreme, our
first sentiment was that of universal approbation.
"It is extremely good," flowed from every tongue
after it had tasted the water. We tried it a second
time; but the voice of applause stuck in our
throats, when the welcome sound of " the camels
are arrived," played upon our ears. On looking
up, we saw them stretching their picturesque and
graceful necks over the ridge of sand, and direct-
ing their march to a pleasant valley on the other
side of the hill under which we were sitting. With
184< DESERT OF SUEZ,
the arrival of the caravan, fresh candidates for
water came up to the well, to whom we gave place,
and proceeded to the other side of the mound to
superintend and assist in forming our encampment*
The fires were immediately lighted, the beasts of
burden unloaded, the tents pitched, and in a short
time a comfortable dinner and a good glass of wine
consoled us for the fatigues of the day.
As the shades of night closed in upon us, the
light of our fires gleamed back in reflection from
the banks of sand with which we were surrounded,
and the members of each small party collected
round their little hearth, smoking their pipes, drink-
ing their coffee, and reposing after their fatigues,
presented a tranquil and happy prospect, and
seemed to the spectator at a distance, as if we had
encamped in a focus of light. Last night's medita-
tion held them mute; they had just entered on a
journey which might be attended with suffering, and
had not advanced sufficiently far to enable them to
talk of their fatigues, or the probability of themselves
or their animals holding out to its termination. But
the vigorthat remained after this day's fatigue roused
their confidence, and produced conversation. At an
early hour the Mussulman retired to his prayers, the
Christian pilgrims having assembled together, sung
hymns of thanksgiving and praise, and all gave them-
selves to rest. The desert is the spot in which man
is all to his Maker and nothing to the world.
Next morning, April the 1st, we commenced
DESERT OF SUEZ. 185
our march again at seven o'clock. In about half
an hour we passed over the mound of sand, and
got into a sandy valley where were shrubs and palm-
trees on each hand, and the road much lighter and
pleasanter. The palm-trees are supposed to have
sprung from the stones of the dates, left by the tra-
vellers who had stopt there for refreshment. At
half past nine we ascended another ridge of sand,
and saw an extensive sandy plain before us, with
trees running through it as if it had once been in-
habited. To the right of this lies Gapia, the route
of the caravan which was given us at Cairo; but
the guide found it convenient to change it on pre-
tence of the water being better on the other road.
At eleven o'clock we stopt in the edge of a small
wood, to wait for the camels. Here there are great
numbers of the verbascum and squills; vegetables
of one sort or other grow upon the top of the highest
mounds of sand. We set off again at twelve, the
scenery continued much the same, a constant alter-
nation of mounds and vallies, and at half past two
we arrived at Abousmeyra, the third stage in the
desert, where we stopt for the night. This day had
been cloudy, with a northerly wind, and the travel-
ling so pleasant that we were not in the least fatigued.
April the 2nd, we resumed our march about
half past seven. The road lay over the same un-
dulating surface as before. The edge of the sand-
hills are almost perpendicular, and the sand seemed
18(3 DESERT OF SUEZ.
more recently blown, with more shrubs and fewer
trees than on the preceding day. At half past ten
we reached Aboulafam, where there is a well of
brackish water and one sycamore-tree. This is the
usual stopping place of the caravans, and had the
appearance of being much frequented by cattle.
Here we waited an hour for the coming up of the
camels. At noon we ascended another sandy ridge,
and saw before us an extensive plain bounded on
the east by a dark mountain ridge, running in a
north-west direction. After the long and dull
monotony of sand, the sight of the mountain cheered
us exceedingly; the valley contains a good deal of
pasture, and on approaching it a little nearer, we
descried two camels feeding along with a number
of cows and goats; next we discovered several
Arab tents, and the camels having come up, we
pitched our own in the neighbourhood. This was a
party of Bedoween Arabs, who had come from El
Arisch, six days ago, to pasture their flocks. The
party consisted of four men, with their wives and
a number of children; they brought us milk and
kids and fresh and salt butter. Nothing could be
more simple than the construction of their tents;
three sticks, one at each end stuck into the ground
and standing upright, with one across the top,
formed the frame-work, and a large brown cloth
made of goat's or camePs hair, thrown over it, and
pinned down to the ground, formed the covering.
DESERT OF SUEZ. 187
This place is called Djeradam, or as others pro-
nounced it Djenadeel; here there is great profusion
of squills, the water is very bad, but thank God,
we had no occasion for it. On the morning of the
3rd, we set out again, about the same hour; hav-
ing mounted to the top of the sandy ridge, we de-
scried a large sheet of water on our left which we
imagined to be the sea; but our guide informed
us it was not, and we were afterwards convinced
that he was right; it is called Hshoub. The sand
deepened and the mounds became higher and more
numerous still, with a sharp precipitous edge facing
the north. We afterwards crossed three vallies in
succession, divided from each other by a mound
of sand; the last and largest of which was about
a mile long, opened to the south-east, and pre-
sented us with another view of the mountain above
mentioned; the crop of shrubs increased and the
bottom of the valley was covered with an efflores-
cence of salt. Some of the vallies were perfectly
square and regularly formed, as if they had been
enclosed by art. At two o'clock, we passed the
tomb of Shiekh Masar, a small square building,
with a dome; it is situated on the top of a hill, has
three windows and a door which looks to the east,
with an immense collection of rags and ropes sus-
pended over his grave, which occupies the centre
of the building. Down from the tomb is a pleasant
looking valley with a well of brackish water. This
188
DESERT OF SUEZ.
is the usual resting place of the caravans, and here
we waited a couple of hours for our camels, which,
however, passed by the other side of the hill with-
out coming to water; as soon as this was known,
we set out in pursuit of them, and coming up, con-
tinued our march till five o'clock. On making our
encampment we found that ten of our former num-
bers, and six asses were missing, having parted com-
pany in the desert; this might have been a serious
misfortune; but our journey through the desert was
now nearly completed, and it fortunately happened
that along with the strayed party there were several
people who knew the route to El Arisch.
The want of fresh water, now began to be expe-
rienced by our fellow-travellers; which coming to
the ears of the earl of Belmore, he ordered a jarful
to be distributed among them; which relieved their
wants, and produced the most grateful acknow-
ledgments.
The greater part of the deserters we found were
the Christian pilgrims, and among them was one
who had walked on foot all the way from India,
carrying his clothes and provision on his back. On
discovering him among the pedestrians, the noble
traveller desired him to mount one of the camels,
that however he refused to do, it being contrary to his
vow; but consented to part with his burden which
was mounted accordingly, and restored to him every
night. To-day, however, he had taken it along with
DESERT OF SUEZ.
189
himself, which showed that the separation was pre-
meditated, and proceeded from awash of travelling
by longer and more fatiguing marches. This even-
ing we had little sacred music, but one of the
Albanian soldiers sung us to rest with a variety of
his native airs, which he alternately sung and in-
terpreted to the great entertainment of his party.
During the night one of our tents was overturned;
the asses having broke loose, gallopped about and
pulled up the cords by which it was fastened. How-
ever we sustained no inconvenience, saving that
of getting out of bed to replace it.
The mode in which the Arabs fasten their ani-
mals on a journey is very simple. Two sticks are
driven into the ground at a certain distance from
each other, which is greater or less, according to
the number of animals to be secured. A rope is
stretched between the two sticks, and tied to it
at each end, to this rope the asses and mules are
all attached by the feet; the horses are secured in
the same manner, but apart from the asses; the
camels are seldom secured at all. April the 4th,
we resumed our march, at half past seven o'clock,
and having crossed the ridge of sand, filed along
a beaten track for about an hour. The mounds
of sand are still sharp on the northern edge, and
slope down towards the south, but the surface
upon the whole is more agreeable, and more shrubs
and grass show themselves above the sand. At
190 DESERT OF SUEZ.
eleven o'clock we came to a herd of camels with their
young ones feeding on this burning pasture. Here
we stopt an hour for the caravan to come up, and
amused ourselves in hunting the lizard, and jerboa,
which I suppose had routed all the beetles, for this
was the only place in the desert where we did not
find them. We saw no trees to-day and had seen
none yesterday. On the arrival of the camels, our
men informed us that they had seen six antelopes;
but though very anxious, could not get a shot at
them. We proceeded on for two hours further, and
stopt at Melegabr to water the animals, when the
same ceremony of digging up the water to the
Bedoween air was practised with equal success.
Having watered, we proceeded again on our jour-
ney, and the guide announced to us the joyful
tidings that we were only an hour and a half from
El Arisch. Thank God we are now nearly out of
the desert, was the spontaneous reply of every
heart; the sand deepened considerably, and the
road become more desert than in any part of our
journey, with fewer shrubs and vegetables. How-
ever, nothing now could discourage us; we held
on our way regardless of obstacles, excepting that
they made us sympathize with our poor animals,
toiling under their heavy burdens, through the
deep wreaths of sand. At length we got on the
summit of the ridge, and the tombs of the shiekhs
of El Arisch met our delighted sight. As we
ARRIVAL AT EL ARTSCII. 191
wound down the hill, the fortress showed its sub-
stantial form with the village hanging under its east-
ern front- We soon crossed the intervening valley,
ascended the sloping height, passed though the
burial-ground, and pitched our tents on the east
side of it, a little to the north of the village. Still
all around us is sand, no traces of cultivation meet
the eye from the site of our tents in any direction,
and El Arisch, seated upon a slightly elevated rock,
among wreaths of drifting sand, in spite of the heat
of the brilliant sun, appeared to us like a fortress in
the midst of snow. The shiekhs' tombs are small, well
built, and being extremely white, harmonized with
the prospect and helped to maintain the delusion.
The rock is a shell limestone, with a greater propor-
tion both of chalk and shells than any of the rocks
in Egypt; it resembles most that above Gau Kubeer
or Antasopolis.
El Arisch is held by the Pasha of Egypt, and
garrisoned by his troops. It is the residence of
the wife, or rather wives and family, of the shiekh
of our caravan. His father, a venerable looking old
man, dressed in a scarlet Juppa, and apparently in
comfortable circumstances, came down from the
village to welcome us to El Arisch; the other
sheikhs deferred their visit till we were just going
to dine, when arriving all in a cloud, they placed
themselves as thick as locusts round the door of
our tent, that we could hardly breath, and it be-
192 JOURNEY TO JAFFA,
came necessary to request them to retire. This
request is as unpleasant to make as it is to hear,
and to the Arabs the sound is peculiarly ungra-
cious: but self-preservation is the first law of
nature, we were almost suffocated, and there was
no other way of avoiding it.
Next morning, I had the half of the village for
patients, some of them were sick, but most of them
wished for physic to prevent them from being sick.
Strong lusty men of between seventy and eighty
years of age, would come and thrust their arms
into my hand for advice, and on being told that
there was nothing the matter with them, would
coolly reply, we know that, but wish to be informed
what disease we are to be attacked with first, and
to have advice and medicines to provide against
it. I frankly told them that old age was the dis-
ease of which a man of eighty was most likely to
die, and that I knew of no remedy equal to cure
it. I must, however, honestly confess, that though
I have seen people die at all ages from one hour to
a hundred and four years; yet I never knew one
die of sheer old age; there was always another
existing cause that terminated its operation in death.
We left El Arisch at half past seven o'clock.
Cultivation commenced immediately on the other
side of the hill, but was not visible from our encamp-
ment. A ploughed field, bestrewed with a goodly
sprinkling of sand, first attracted our notice on the
SHIEKH JUIDE. 193
right. Having passed it and a deep mound of sand,
we descended into a small valley shaded with trees
and partially cultivated; but the weeds so con-
tended with the corn that it was difficult to tell
which had the best right to the possession of the
soil. We held on our route over a similarly un-
dulating surface in which grass and sand disputed
the superiority, and at two o'clock pitched our
tents in a narrow valley near the ruined village of
Shiekh Juide. Here there was a tolerable crop
of barley in the leaf, much later than that of
Egypt, an old shepherdess attending a wretched
herd of goats, two trees, no houses, no Arabic tents
in sight, and no water within three miles. Why did
we encamphere? Heaven and our shiekh only knew.
The water at El Arisch is slightly brackish; but
we had brought enough of it with us so that we
might have encampt wherever we pleased.
The Arabs in this quarter have an indifferent
character, and were at one time very troublesome
to travellers. Some years ago having plundered a
caravan, a complaint of their conduct was made
to the Pasha of Egypt, in whose territory they
reside. On receiving the information, his High-
ness instantly dispatched a messenger to desire
that they would return to the lawful owners,
every article of which they had robbed them, and
otherwise to indemnify them for the loss sustained.
If they refused to comply he threatened to send
VOL. II. o
19^ SHIEKH JUIDE.
an army who would destroy them root and branch*
They believed the word of the Pasha of Egypt,
who is not likely on any occasion to say or threaten
more than he means to do; restitution was made
without delay, and since that time they have not
ventured on a similar aggression. Next morning
we found ourselves a few forks and a few knives
minus; but it admits of strong doubts if the Arabs
were the thieves.
We resumed our march on the 6th, at eight
o'clock, and at nine passed the ruined village of
Shiekh Juide, which is reported to have been burnt
down by the French on their way to Egypt, and
never since rebuilt. It occupied a pleasant situa-
tion at the upper end of the valley; but the tomb
of the venerable Shiekh who lent his name both
to the premises and the valley, is all that remains
erect to tell the tale of its disaster. Over the
deposit there is suspended by the four corners, a
black and white cloth with a large ostrich egg,
and a few monumental charms hanging above it;
close by these is an extensive burying-ground, and
a large field of barley nearly ripe; the ground all
round is picturesque and cultivated, but the crops
are poor. At eleven it threatened to rain, and we
waited to get our coats from the caravan; by noon
we reached Rafah, anciently called Rafiah, on the
top of the hill where there are still standing two
columns of grey granite beside a small heap of
HANOONIS. 195
rubbish. This name calls to our recollection a
great battle that was fought between Ptolemy the
fourth, the king of Egypt, and Antiochus the Great,
the king of Syria, A little way down the hill
there is a deep well; the sides of the shaft are re-
gularly built up and covered at the top to exclude
the sun; it is surrounded with many scattered
columns of granite and contains tolerably good
water. The crops here are much better than about
Shiekh Juide. About two o'clock we passed by
Hanoonis which we left on the right, it is a large
village situated on an eminence on the south side
of the valley. Near to Hanoonis were two en-
campments of Bedoween Arabs which looked like
two tent villages; one of them had nine and twenty
large tents, all covered with browrn cloth, made of
camel's hair. Such a covering protects them from
the heat of the sun; and in such a climate any in-
terruption to the air of heaven abridges human
enjoyment: even a palace would be a nuisance.
The men were abroad riding among their flocks
in the field; all looked like fruition, nothing
like labor. Having crossed the plain from Ha-
noonis we wound our way up a beautifully sloping
hill, and encampt on the other side of it, having
the village of Dair on the one hand, and an en-
campment of Bedoweens on the other, with a view
of the sea in front. Hanoonis the last village
which we passed, pays tribute to the Pasha of
o 2
196 DAIR.
Egypt; but Dair, near which we are now encamp-
ed, is in the pashalic of Acre. There is no per-
ceptible line of division between the two govern*
ments. Here there is plenty of good water, raised
by a water-wheel, resembling the Persian wheels in
Egypt and Nubia, and three beautiful marble co-
lumns laid together form a trough for the cattle to
drink from.
Dinner was scarcely begun when a number of
patients arrived from the village; and as soon as
possible I gave them attendance. Among these
came a fine looking old man of seventy-five years
of age, carried down by his disconsolate townsmen,
to consult me on a sabre wound which he had re-
ceived in the neck the day before, in a scuffle with
the inhabitants of a neighboring village. Like a
languishing flower, his head drooped upon his
breast, from which it was not likely ever to be
raised. Another of their friends had been shot
dead on the spot, and during the whole night the
villagers sung and made a noise around him like
so many savages. Strife between the different vil-
lagers and the different herdsmen here, exists still,
as it did in the days of Abraham and Lot: the
country has often changed masters ; but the. habits
of the natives, both in this and other respects,
have been nearly stationary. Abraham was a
Bedoween: and I never saw a fine venerable
looking shiekh busied among his flocks and herds,
JOURNEY TO JAFFA. 1Q7
that it did not remind me of the holy patriarch him-
self.
On the 7th, we set out again at half-past seven.
The same kind of rural scenery continues; beauti-
fully undulating fields covered with flocks and herds.
The breed of black cattle are not near so handsome
as they are in Egypt. Among the articles of cul-
tivation wre saw considerable fields of tobacco. The
addess, or lentils, are in rich growth, the barley is
in the ear, the wheat not so far advanced. About
nine o'clock we descended the hill, and crossed the
dry bed of a river, about thirty yards wide. It is
called Oa di Gaza. Below where we crossed there
was stagnant water in several places. The route
lay through a fine alluvial plain, that when there
was water seemed to be surrounded by the river.
From this we ascended a hill, where the road was
deep with sand which had drifted in from the left.
On the right, were ploughed fields, and excellent
crops of a deep verdant hue. The sheep here
are exceedingly fine, black-faced and white-faced,
and many of them with a brown colored fleece.
The leaders of the flock bear the bell, as in this
country. The peasantry plough here with two
oxen; the plough is remarkably slight, and has
only one handle, which the ploughman holds with
one hand, and carries a long stick in the other;
the beam and yoke of the plough is so remarkably
short, that, without moving from his post, he can
198 GAZA.
chastise the oxen, and make them quicken their
pace at his pleasure. At ten o'clock we reached
the summit of the hill. The whitened tomb of the
sometime Shiekh Ab Ali Montar, crowned the
lofty promontary of the mountains of Hebron, on
our right j and the town and minarets of Gaza oc-
cupied the summit of a mound in the plain, on our
left. Gaza was one of the five satrapies of the
Philistines, celebrated both in ancient and modern
times, from Samson, the Judge of Israel, down to
our redoubted champion of the cross, Richard, the
king of England. A hedge of Indian fig lines the
road on each side, and a number of upright white
marble tomb-stones mark the spot where the road
turns to the left, and winds like a serpentine walk
through gardens of pleasure to the gates of the
city. The gardens are enclosed with hedges of
Indian figs, and abound in tall spreading sycamore
trees, which gave them an enchanting and delight-
ful appearance, though but indifferently provided
either with articles for use or beauty. The town
and the burying ground cover the top of the emi-
nence, which is about two miles in circumference
at the base, and appears to have been wholly in-
closed within the ancient fortifications, and must
doubtless have been strong according to the ancient
mode of warfare. For a period of two months it
withstood all the efforts of Alexander the Great on
his way to Egypt. He was often repulsed, and fre-
GAZA. 199
quently wounded, which he afterwards revenged in
a most infamous manner, oft the person of the gal-
lant defender, Betis, whose ankles he bored while
the man was yet alive, tied him to his chariot
wheels, and dragged him round the walls of the
town, in the wicked parade of imitating Achilles in
his savage treatment of the body of Hector.
There are no antiquities of any consequence at
Gaza. In several places we saw a few scattered
columns of grey granite, probably of Roman work-
manship, and part of the substructions and columns
of a round edifice, near the Seraglio, which is a
large awkward looking building, of Saracenic archi-
tecture. There is a number of mosques, and some
fine tombs, and both town and people, upon the
whole, seem comfortable, and in every sort of ac-
commodation greatly superior to the Egyptians.
The number of inhabitants is estimated at between
two and three thousand. Gaza is farther from the
sea than El Arisch, the distance being between
three and four miles.
From the height of Gaza we descended into the
plain, and three quarters of an hour brought us
without the olive grove. The trees are old and large,
and judiciously planted, not crowded together in
such impenetrable masses as we found them in the
Ionian isles, so as to prevent a free circulation of air,
and infect the neighbourhood with a noisome damp;
but free and open, admitting of cultivation, and the
200 BAIUSAttAo
healthy growth of vegetables at their roots. The?
whole is like a well arranged domain, formed equally
for pleasure and utility. On the edge of the grove
a number of storks, so venerated by the Mussulmans,
presented themselves, and our muskets were em-
ployed in thinning their ranks. We next passed
Bet Hanoon, a small village on our right, our left
being still bounded with large mounds of sand. A
little farther on we crossed the deep dry bed of a
winter torrent, supposed to be the torrent Escol. The
village, Beeresnait, was on our right, and before us
the villages Bedigga and Dia, from which we turn-
ed off to the left, and pitched our tents on a fine
grassy field, close to the village of Barbara, a
modern village standing in the plain.
The people here are much fairer than the people
in Egypt, and have been so all the way from El
Arisch. They are also clean and well dressed, and
comfortable in their appearance. The females no
longer wear the dirty beteen, or stick their face
into # black crape bag, as they do in the land of
Mizraim. Their usual veil is a large white hand-
kerchief or shawl, which covers their head, face,
and shoulders, and which they keep remarkably
clean. It is astonishing what a light and cheerful
air the costume imparts to nature's fairest form,
compared with the dull funereal drapery of the
Egyptian dames. They are like angels of light
compared with a set of dusky dames hanging in
LAND OF CANAAN. 20l
the train of the prince of darkness. The white
veil covering the head and face, and falling over
the shoulders, is worn by all the females in Syria
and Palestine, except the Jewesses.
Next morning, the 8th of April, we began our
march at eight o'clock. The morning was hazy,
but the air extremely delightful, and the sun half
emerging, shed a mild and softened light over hill
and plain. The caravan brushing the dew from off*
the tender herb and new blown flowers, filed along
the beautiful and well wooded valley in their way
to Ashdod (pronounced in the country Shdood)
and Gibny, while we ascended the hill, passed
through the village of Barbara, and took the road
for the ruins of Askelon (pronounced Ascalaan),
which lie about an hour out of the direct line of
march to Ashdod.
We are now in the land of promise, from Gaza's
frontier bounds; the land of Canaan, the land of
God's chosen people, a land flowing with milk and
honey, a land for flocks, and herbs, and bees, the
land of legislators and sages, prophets and apostles,
the land where God himself walked the earth in
human form, and spoke his words which have gone
out unto the world's end. A land in comparison
of which all others are of no reputation. We tread
it with awe and reverential delight, conscious that
the same Spirit still pervades the ground where
202 ASKELON.
anciently were exhibited such manifestations of
divine wisdom and power.
Olive trees still occupy the sandy height upon our
left, with fine crops of wheat and barley upon our
right, Arab tents along the edge of the hills, and
Arab shiekhs busily employed among their flocks in
the field. In about half an hour we crossed the sandy
ridge, and descended into a well-cultivated plain
at the village called Naide. On the next eminence
we found the remains of an edifice, with granite
columns, like what we had seen at Rafia, and en-
joyed an excellent view of the ruined walls of As-
kelon -y winding round an eminence on our left, and
having crossed a small stream in the intervening
valley, we arrived at their base. The position of
Askelon is strong: the walls are built on the top
of a ridge of rock, that winds round the town in a
semicircular direction, and terminates at each end in
the sea. The foundations remain all the way round,
the walls are of great thickness, and in some places
of considerable height, and flanked with towers at
different distances. Patches of the wall preserve
their original elevation; but in general it is ruined
throughout, and the materials lie scattered around
the foundation, or rolled down the hill on either
side. The ground falls within the walls in the
same manner that it does without: the town was
situated in the hollow, so that no part of it could
ASKELON.
203
be seen from the outside of the walls. Numerous
ruined houses still remain with small gardens in-
terspersed among them. We passed on through
the centre of the ruins, and about the middle of
them came to a ruined temple or theatre, as it has
been supposed, part of which had lately been clear-
ed out by the exertions of the Lady Hester Stan-
hope. Her Ladyship is reported to have found here
a beautiful marble statue, which was afterwards
broken. We saw none of the fragments, and I
do not vouch for the accuracy of the story. A few
columns of grey granite, and one of red, with an
unusually large proportion of feldspar, and some
small portions of the walls, are all that were then
visible of this extensive edifice.
In the highest part of the town we found the
remains of a Christian convent, close upon the sea,
with a well of excellent water beside it. The sea
beats strongly against the bank, on which the con-
vent stands, and six prostrate columns of grey
granite, which we saw half covered with the waves,
attest the effects of its encroachments. There is
no bay nor shelter for shipping; but a small har-
bour advancing a little way into the town, towards
its eastern extremity, seems to have been formed
for the accommodation of such small craft as were
used in the better days of the city. From this
saddening scene, we retraced our steps across the
204
ASKELON.
ruins, and rejoined our shiekh, who smoked his
pipe, and waited for us without the gate of the
city.
Askelon was one of the proudest satrapies of the
lords of the Philistines; now there is not an inha-
bitant within its walls, and the prophecy of Zecha-
riah is fulfilled, «the King shall perish from Gaza,
and Askelon shall not be inhabited." When the
prophecy was uttered, both of these cities were in
an equally flourishing condition, and nothing but
theprescience of Heaven could pronounce on which
of the two, and in what manner, the vial of his
wrath should be thus poured out. Gaza is truly
without a king, the lofty towers of Askelon lie
scattered on the ground, and the ruins within its
walls do not shelter a human being. How is the
wrath of man made to praise his Creator! Hath he
said, and shall he not do it? The oracle was
delivered by the mouth of the prophet, more than
five hundred years before the Christian era, and we
behold its accomplishment eighteen hundred years
after that event, and see with our eyes that the
king has perished from Gaza, and that Askelon is
not inhabited: and were there no others on which
the mind could confidently rest, from the fulfilment
of this one prophecy, even the most sceptical may
be assured that all that is predicted in the sacred
volume shall come to pass.
ASHDOD. 205
'Askelon was the birth place of Herod the Great,
and several eminent Mussulmans.
We now pursued our way across the hill, which
was covered with a plentiful mixture of grass and
sand, and arrived at the village of Misdal, situated
in a beautiful plain, and surrounded with small
gardens, hedged with the Indian fig-trees. An hour
and a half from Askelon, we reached the village
Hamami. Its environs are cultivated, and the
crops abundant, but quite overgrown with thistles,
extensive plantations of which line the road on
each side. At present, although our prospect is
extensive, there is not a tree in sight; yet the
growth of spring clothes the undulating fields, and
every thing is fresh and beautiful. It is not like
the land of Egypt, but it is a thousand times more
interesting. Having passed a large tumulus on the
top of an adjoining hill, the history of which we
could not learn, we came in sight of Azotus,
Ashdod, pronounced in the country Shdood. In
about half an hour thereafter we crossed a broad
stone bridge, which was over the bed of a river,
with stagnant water, in several places. Next wre
come to the ruined village of Tookrair, which is
situated on the top of a hill, on the left, and seems
to have been a place of considerable consequence,
probably Ekron. Soon after which we arrived at
Ashdod, passed the town and well, with a small
contiguous mosque on the road side, turned into a
206
ASHDOD.
pleasant grassy field, and pitched our tents for the
night.
The lie of the ground around Ashdod is beauti-
fully undulating, the pasture luxuriant, but not
half stocked with cattle. The site of the town is
on the summit of a grassy hill, and if we are to
believe historians, was anciently as strong as it is
beautiful. Herodotus states, that Psammetichus,
the king of Egypt, spent twenty-nine years in
besieging it, and in the end was successful; an
event which is stated to have occurred 1124
years before Christ, about fifty years before the
reign of David in Hebron. This was another
of the five satrapies of the Philistines, who when
they had taken the Ark of God from the Israel-
ites, in battle, brought it to Ashdod, and car-
ried it into the house of Dagon, and set it by
Dagon their God. We neither saw nor heard of
any ruins here. Scarcely any of the inhabitants
came near us. They do not appear to be so sociable
or kind to strangers as their neighbours at Barbara.
Every thing here was dearer than in Egypt; a sheep
cost eight shillings and sixpence; the dearest in
Egypt was seven shillings, and generally but a
dollar. They charged us four piasters, or about
half a crown, for the night's grazing of our camels
and asses, which in other places we had with a free
hearty welcome. The blood of the plundering
Philistines is still in the land.
YAFFA OR JAFFA. 207
In the evening there fell a remarkably heavy dew,
but in the course of the night the haze cleared off,
and in the morning every thing was dry. On the
ninth we set off again at half past seven o'clock,
the bugle horn sounding our departure to the neigh-
bouring hills, while the caravan moved slowly off
among the trees. At the bottom of the hill we cross-
ed the bed of another river, with pools of stagnant
water, and continuing our march across the plain,
passed an encampment of seven tents, some of which
were Bedoween, others the round upright party co-
lored tent of the Turkish soldiery. In about two
hours we passed the village Bededjen where the
features of the cotmtry are of a milder aspect, and
in a little thereafter turned to the left, leaving the
village of Djedou on our right, reached the top
of the hill, and came in sight of Yaffa or Jaffa, an-
ciently Joppa, from which we are distant about an
hour's ride, or three miles. The surface of the
ground is still beautifully undulating, the hills are
high and partially cultivated, but upon the whole
the plantations of thistles are quite as numerous as
the fields of grain. The end of this day's journey
is in sight, which brings us within twelve hours'
march of Jerusalem. At the lowest part of the
plain, the gardens of Yaffa commence on each side
of the road; they are extensive and beautiful, as
a spot of cultivation is in the midst of fields that
run wild in a state of nature. The gardens are
SOS YAFFA OR JAFFA.
fenced with hedges of the prickly pear, and plen-
tifully furnished with pomegranate, orange, fig-trees,
and water-melons. The latter of which, the pro-
duce of Yaffa, are celebrated all over the Levant,
and are delicious; but will be cautiously and spar-
ingly used by the European who values his health,
and wishes to avoid bowel complaints, the most
harassing and debilitating of all the ills with which
the traveller is liable to be affected. These melons are
found only at Yaffa and Damietta in Egypt, and
seem to owe their flavor and peculiar excellence to
the soil and climate of these two places; for though
transplanted to others, and cultivated in the same
^manner, they lose their exquisite flavor, and quickly
degenerate, I believe, into the common water-
melon. Surrounded with gardens, we passed on
through an atmosphere perfumed with the odor of
sweet scented flowers, and at half past eleven, a. m.
alighted at the gate of Yaffa. The camels came up
with our baggage in about three quarters of an
hour after, and we pitched our tents on a sandy
piece of ground, beside three old trees, where the
gardens terminate on the right. There is plenty
of water in an adjoining orchard, to which we were
allowed an unrestrained access. Here our engage-
ment with the caravan from Cairo terminated, the
shiekhs of which had uniformly conducted them-
selves in a most becoming and respectful manner.
It behoved us now to form another caravan to
YAFFA OR JAFFA. 209
transport ourselves, and our effects to Jerusalem;
with this view in company with the English consul,
we proceeded in the afternoon to pay our respects
to the governor. His Excellency received us in the
usual way, placing his distinguished visiter on the
left hand, and having welcomed him to Yaffa, pipes
and coffee were immediately introduced. He talked
to his lordship of his extensive tour, his change of
costume, and concluding with a touch of Russian
politics, he said he was bound to forward him on
his journey to the utmost of his powTer; that he
could neither promise us horses nor asses, but that
there were plenty of mules and camels, and that
we had only to let him know how many we required,
which we promised to do on the following day. I
happened to be among the last who entered the
room, and took a seat among the Arabs, who were
on the right hand of his Excellency, beside a red
haired, fair complexioned, well dressed Arab, whose
countenance wore an air of dissatisfaction and de-
sign, which he tried to carry off by an abrupt and
forward freedom of manner that but ill corre-
sponded with his looks. Having heard that I was
of the medical profession, he took advantage of
the first pause in the conversation to thrust his
arm into my hand and begged to be informed of
the state of his health. I enquired what was his
complaint. He replied that he expected me to tell
him that. I felt his pulse for a few seconds, and
VOL. II. p
210 YAFFA OR JAFFA.
tossing away his hand with a liberty which the free-
dom of his manner authorized me to take, told him
he was perfectly well, and had no need of physic.
He laughed, and, turning round to the governor,
called out, clenching his fist, hackim tayeep, hac-
kim tayeep, and gave me great credit for my de-
cision, as if there had been any merit or exercise
of skill, in pronouncing a man in health to be per-
fectly well.
Having finished our interview with the governor,
we took a walk through the town, and in the even-
ing received a visit from this same red-haired gen-
tleman and a green coated companion, whose for-
ward manners by no means prepossessed us in their
favor. A crowd of listeners had collected round
the door of the tent, while he pushed on his con-
versation with a familiarity and even levity that in
the end was likely to have proved rather annoying;
but a messenger came hallooing from the town, to
announce the hour of closing the gate; at hearing
of which our rosy faced visiter and his green coated
companion sprung to their feet, wrapt their abbas
around them, and fled to the city as if panic struck,
leaving us as much relieved by their absence, as en-
tertained by their prompt and precipitate retreat.
Next morning, in consequence of what Rosy had
said to the governor, I was assailed by innumerable
applicants for medical advice. A person in the Frank
dress, but speaking tolerably good French, and
YAFFA OR JAFFA. 211
calling himself an Arab, brought me more requests
of this kind from the "gens comme il faut" than
I could possibly comply with. There are no anti-
quities in Yaffa, and after a walk round the fortifi-
cations, in which I was not allowed to omit the
English Battery, so named because an English offi-
cer has the merit of having advised its erection, I
proceeded, in company with my interpreter, to feel
as many of the pulses of the good people in Yaffa as
my time would permit. And in order that I might do
them as much justice as possible, the gates of the city
were kept open a couple of hours longer than usual
for our mutual accommodation. During the whole
of this fatiguing day it afforded me sincere pleasure
to see the comparative comfort and easy circum-
stances in which the greater part of the inhabitants
seemed to live.
In the Christian families all over the Levant, the
physician sees his patients of either sex much in the
same manner as in Europe; but in the Moslem
families a little more ceremony and restraint are
observed in regard to the females. I had a toler-
able good specimen of this in the family of the
grand paymaster of the city, who requested me to
prescribe for his favorite wife, who had been a corn-
plainer for about the space of eight months. I
readily complied with his request; and we walked
together from the office to his house. Having sat
down in his parlor, pipes and coffee were immedi-
p 2
212 YAFFA OR JAFFA.
ately introduced, and he proceeded to inform me
of the ailments of his better half, or rather fourth
or sixteenth, I believe, would be the appropriate
fractional denominator of the female invalid who
shared the affections of her husband with fifteen
competitors. Having enumerated what he consi-
dered to be the leading symptoms of her disease,
he inquired if it would be necessary for me to feel
her pulse. I replied in the affirmative, and to this
he made no objections. But on the interpreter
adding, yes, and he must see her too, the good
man seemed rather stunned, and appealed to me to
confirm or renounce the statement of the interpre-
ter. I assured him that there is an aspect as well
as a pulse of disease, and that the physician can
frequently judge more accurately of the state of his
patient from an examination of the countenance
than of the pulse. On hearing this, he paused for
a considerable time, and sucked in, and volumed
out the smoke in wreaths from his mouth, as if all
the whole faculties of his soul had been in consult-
ation; and demanded if it were necessary for me to
see the whole of her face. I replied, yes, the whole
of it, as I see your's just now before me. La, la,
la, no, no, no, he shook his head, and instantly ex-
claimed, looking me full in the face, as if to in-
quire, Do you mean to insult me? Finding the
look made no impression, he tranquillized himself,
and began to bargain with me, that I should see her
YAFFA OR JAFFA.
213
face in detail; the mouth and tongue at one time,
the nose and cheeks at another, but not the whole
at once, and on no account her eyes. At this my
risible faculties were rather excited, and I informed
the worthy gentleman, that I had no desire to see
his wife at all j but since he had inquired of me, as
a professional man, what was necessary to enable
me to judge properly of the state of his wife's com-
plaint, I considered it my duty to tell him candidly,
and without reserve, all that he had asked. Sahe,
sahe, dougre, dougre, right, right, true, true, he
exclaimed, and, apparently subdued, after a little
consideration, during which he seemed to have rea-
soned himself into something like common sense,
added, "Well, you shall see her;" and having walked
out, returned in a few minutes with the lady at his
back, wrapt up, as usual, in a white faldetta, or
robe that covered the head and face, and the greater
part of the body. She did not, however, enter the
room, but sat down at the top of the stair, on the
outside of the door; the interpreter remained with-
in, and, at her husband's request, I walked out to
her, and saw a plain, diffident, unaffected, and ap-
parently amiable woman, who held out her hand,
showed her tongue, and face, and eyes without any
hesitation, such as a sensible woman would do in
this, or in any other country, and told the tale of
her sufferings with great simplicity, earnestly de-
siring relief, and inquiring if I could give her any
214 YAFFA OR JAFFA.
hopes of a recovery. The account of this lady's
complaint, as well as those of many others, convin-
ced me that nervous affections prevail to a greater
extent, and, if possible, under a greater variety of
forms, among the ladies in the Levant than in this
part of Europe. And when we consider that tyran-
nical seclusion to which the most amiable part of
our species is subjected all over the East, and in
every unchristian country, we need not be sur-
prised that their health should suffer, and that their
days and nights should be spent in misery and ap-
prehension. Air and exercise are necessary for the
health of every human being, and they who de-
prive themselves of either, have no more right to
expect that the hue and vigor of their frame should
remain unimpaired, than the naturalist would have
to look for the fragrance of the rose, or the hues of
the carnation, from the plants that grow in a dun-
geon. After this fashion, through the mouth of
my interpreter, I preached to the lordly Turk;
telling him, if he wished his wife to get well, she
must be unshackled and restored to the liberty of
which she had been unjustly deprived: that she
must quit the relaxing seclusion of the harem, for
air and exercise in the country: that gentle exer-
cise on horseback, and one month's residence in
the bracing air of Mount Lebanon, would do her
more good than all the medicines in the world. On
hearing me pronounce to this effect, the grand
YAFFA OR JAFFA.
215
payeur de la ville seemed rather disappointed, and
though he acquiesced in the propriety and justice
of what was said, yet looked as if he had expected
some thaumaturgic physic, or that by some magical
spell or abracadabra pronounced on the spot, his wife
should be restored to him sound and whole as at
the first. The conversation ended with his agree-
ing to take his lady to his country residence, as
soon as he himself could accompany her, and there-
by afford her the best opportunity of recovery in
his power. The purport of this conversation with
the grand payeur de la ville was retailed by the in-
terpreter to every Mussulman who consulted me
about his wife, and I had no more any occasion to
bargain with the husband for a sight of his lady's
face, when called to prescribe for hen The ladies,
however, were not always so compliant; and wrhat
made it still more ridiculous, even ophthalmic pa-
tients would not show their eyes till shook, and
abused, and threatened by their husbands. How
much it is to be washed, for the health and comfort
of the fair, that all that absurd Oriental seclusion
were abolished, and that their selfish and unfeel-
ing masters were convinced, that a religious edu-
cation and sound principles in the mind, are more
effectual guardians of virtue, than the bars of a
castle.
The inhabitants of Jaffa were stated to me to be
between two and three thousand Mussulmans, and
216
JAFFA.
about six hundred Christians, who are Roman
Catholics, Greeks, and Armenians, I consider the
number of Mussulmans to be considerably under-
rated, and should estimate the whole population of
Yaffa at between four and five thousand souls. Of
the Christians, the Greeks are by far the most affa-
ble and agreeable to strangers. The Armenians
the most triste and austere, though more so in ap-
pearance, I believe, than in reality.
On the 12th, after much delay in packing our
luggage, and loading the animals, we set out on our
journey towards the holy city. All of us, except Lady
Belmore, had now exchanged our horses and asses
for stiff-necked mules. The baggage was mounted
partly on camels, and partly on mules; but what
a horrid cut-throat looking crew were our guides
and drivers compared with our two most respectable
looking shiekhs and1 conductors from Cairo. We
proceeded slowly through the gardens of Yaffa, and
having cleared the thick plantations of thistles, as-
cended the hill, and in a little time passed a toler-
ably good looking mosque on our left, where there
is plenty of excellent water; after which we came
to the village of Seraphan, that stands on a hill on
the right, where there is also a cistern of water on
tjhe road side; and at one o'clock arrived at Ramla,
which is only three hours from Yaffa. The whole
of the road lay over an undulating surface partially
cultivated, and thinly inhabited, and of a wilder
fcAMLA. 217
and more unkindly aspect than our journey through
the ancient territory of the Philistines. A good
deal of wood appeared around a smiling village on
our left as we passed out from Yaffa; but the whole
road was exceedingly unprovided with that article
till we came near to Ramla, anciently called Ari-
mathea, of which was Joseph, that good and just
man, who took down from the cross the body of
the crucified Jesus, wrapt it in linen cloth, and
laid it in his own new sepulchre. The ground
about Ramla is covered with rich verdure, and
adorned with many trees, of which the palm-tree is
the most conspicuous. On a high hill to the west
of the city stands a venerable ruin, called the tower
of the Martyrs, with some stately sycamores over-
looking the town.
On our arrival at Ramla we were conducted to
the Spanish convent, the universal home of the
Christian travellers in that quarter, where we met
with a most welcome reception from the Father
Superior, who expected that we were to have
remained with him all night. We reposed for a
short time under the piazza, to enjoy the shade and
the cool circulation of air, while we partook of a
cup of coffee and a glass of liqueur, which the
reverend father had ordered for us, and of which
he also freely partook. Meanwhile we were sur-
prised by the arrival of our guide from the gover-
nor of Yaffa, who was no other than the fresh faced
918
IIAMLA.
Arab, whose visits had annoyed us so much the
evening before. But how changed, how altered!
respectful, affable, and accommodating; full of
softness and consideration, with an air and graceful
deportment altogether unlooked for, and such as
we had not seen in any man in the whole country.
The Father Superior received him in the most cor-
dial manner, and said « This man is not a Christian,
but few Christians are better men. His name is
Abdel Rahman, the brother of Abougosh, the man
of the first consideration in all this country." This
was to us a most welcome piece of intelligence:
for though we had observed in the morning, that
the lowering clouds were filing off his brow, and
that he had begun to feel that his proper station
was at a more dignified and respectful distance than
he at first seemed to consider it; yet it was truly
consoling to hear such a character of our guide
from such a quarter.
Our caravan being nearly arrived, we took leave
of the venerable father, proceeded through the low
damp ground that skirts the town on the east,
ascended to the top of the hill, which we found
dry and commodious, and here we took up our
station for the night; choosing rather to spend
the night in tents, as we had formerly been ac-
customed to do, than in the gloomy chambers of a
convent, to which, I believe, none of the party
ever manifested great partiality. There was a
RAM LA. 219
spring of good water close at hand, and plenty of
provender for the animals around the tents.
Next morning, the 13th, the crowd of invalids
was prodigious, although we were nearly two miles
distant from the town. Both high and low, the
mayor of the town, the attorney, the grocer, the
scavenger—all came pouring up the hill, more as if
they had been going to a tent-preaching, than to
ask medical advice from a person who had not
above a quarter of an hour to hear their complaints.
To shew my willingness to serve them, I took my
station on the edge of a contiguous ruin, and con-
tinued to hear their complaints, and prescribe for
them, till about eight o'clock, when the sound of
the bugle announced that the caravan was on its
way. I resumed the journey, and bidding them
adieu, said if they came to Jerusalem, I would
prescribe for them all, with the greatest pleasure.
Several of them took me at my word. Having
descended the hill, we passed through an extensive
level plain, where the road was deep, the ground
wet and marshy. After which we got upon a
higher level, and were proceeding merrily along
a scarcely perceptible track on the grassy turf,
reckless of let or interruption, when a haggard look-
ing Arab springing across the field, seized Lord
Corry's mule by the bridle, and refused to let him
advance any farther. His Lordship grasped his
sword to knock him on the head, and his brother
220 UAMLA.
who was riding a little behind, with his musket
slung round his neck, made a show of bringing it
to his eye, which the Arab perceiving, flinched
aside, to shew how little inclination he had to
run the risk of receiving the contents. The affair
might have had an unpleasant issue, but one of
the muleteers coming up, explained to our detainer,
that we were travelling under the protection of the
governor of Yaffa, and accompanied by the brother
of Abougosh. Devil with devil damned firm concord
hold. Instant, at the sound, he dropped the bridle, and
walked off, equally happy to have escaped the sword
of Lord Corry and the shot of his honourable
brother; gnashing his whetted teeth over the prey
that had just been snatched from his jaws, having
taken us for unprotected pilgrims, whom it was
his intention to insult, plunder, and detain. How
blank and dastard he looked, the ragged red-haired
knave, as he slunk across the field to his thievish
den, that lay in the shape of a farm-house, a little
off the road. By the Franks the place is called
Ladron, or den of thieves. Our conductor Abdel
Rahman, was considerably behind, having accom-
panied the noble traveller and Captain Corry to
pay a visit to the Aga or Commandant of the
town, after we had set off. We continued our
route for a little way, and coming near to the rocky
scenery, waited their arrival, not wishing to run
the risk of such another rencontre; for here, as
HILLS OF JUDEA. £21
in many other places, it is better to avoid fighting
than to come off victorious.
On their coming up we again set forward. The
aspect of the country was now become bleak, the
trees both few and small, the grass withered from the
little depth of soil, hard, and of a bad quality. In
about two hours and a half from the time that we
left Ramla, we entered the mountain scenery, the
hill country of Judea. For sometime before Ave
reached the mountains, we kept looking up at their
dusky sides, as they rose in towering grandeur to
the height of about a thousand or fifteen hundred
feet above our heads, covered with sun-burnt
grass; here and there disclosing strips of the bare
horizontal rock, and diversified with a few bushy
trees that stood at very unfriendly and forlorn dis-
tances from each other. Having entered the
mountain defiles, we moved along a deep and most
uncomfortable track, covered with big sharp stones,
sometimes down a steep and almost precipitous
descent, which obliged us to alight and lead our
mules; at other times along the dry stony bed of
a winter torrent, which we had to cross and recross
half a dozen times in the course of a hundred
yards j at other times we climbed a heavy and
lengthened ascent, with only a few shrubs between
us and the edge of the precipice. Thus we con-
tinued ascending and descending, one while round
the projecting base of the mountain, another while
222 HILLS OF JUDEA.
winding in the hollow curve formed by the meet-
ing of their circular edges, till about one o'clock,
when we stopt to refresh the animals, having arri-
ved at a well of good water beside a ruined edifice,
that seemed to have been erected as a military
station to guard the pass. Since entering the
mountain scenery we travelled all in a body; the
riders not separating from the beasts of burden
for fear of any unexpected attack, or any lurching
cur among our own numbers setting off with a
straggler, which the nature of the ground would
soon enable him to conceal and set every search
at defiance.
Here we found the advantage of our gallant
escort from the governor of Yaffa; for scarcely had
we alighted from our mules to repose ourselves on
the scattered stones of the ruin, when a comfortable
collation was brought us by a peasant from a neigh-
bouring village, the master of which had a great
friendship for the brother of Abougosh. Whence
he came or whither he went we could not tell;
there was no house or village in sight; but we
profited by his hospitality, and resumed our march
with redoubled vigor.
The road continued nearly the same with that
already described. The hills, from the commence-
ment of the mountain scenery, are all of a round
handsome shape, meeting in the base and separated
at the tops, not in peaks or pointed acuminations,
HILLS OF .TUDEA. 223
but like the gradual retiring of two round balls,
placed in juxta position. Their sides are partially
covered with earth, which nourishes a feeble
sprinkling of withered grass, with here and there
a dwarf tree or solitary shrub. They are not sus-
ceptible of cultivation, except on the very summit,
where we saw the plough going in several places.
They might be terraced, but there are no traces
of their ever having been so. The rock crops out
in many places but never in precipitous cliffs; the
strata are horizontal, and in many places have
exactly the appearance of the stone courses in a
building. The features of the whole scenery brought
strongly to my recollection the ride from Sanquhar
to Lead-hills in Scotland: and to those who have
visited this interesting part of my native country,
I can assure them the comparison gives a favorable
representation of the hills of Judea. But there are
two remarkable points of difference, which I must
not pass unnoticed: in the northern scenery the
traveller passes over an excellent road, and travels
among an honest and industrious population, where
the conversation of the commonest people will
often delight and surprise the man of letters. But
among the hills of Palestine the road is almost
impassable, and the traveller finds himself among
a set of infamous and ignorant thieves, who would
cut his throat for a farthing, and rob him of his
property for the mere pleasure of doing it.
224 KARIALOONAH.
At half past three o'clock we reached the village
of Karialoonah, the residence of Ibrahim Abou-
gosh, the brother of our conductor, the chief of
his tribe, the prince of the Arabs, and a plunderer
of pilgrims. However, we had nothing to fear; we
were conducted by his brother, and had, moreover,
a letter of introduction from the Lady Hester
Stanhope. The worthy veteran appeared to have
been apprized of our coming, for immediately on
our arrival he presented himself to welcome us-
He was habited after the fashion of his country,
with a tobacco-pipe in his hand, and a fine India
shawl, for a turban, on his head; the other parts
of his dress were of unbleached cotton cloth,
plain and homely like that of the Bedoweens. In
stature he is rather under the middling size, but of
a robust and vigorous make, admirably formed for
supporting fatigue; his complexion is swarthy,
his features regular and animated, with a fine dark
eye, placid and moist as a drop of dew. You would
say that this man is formed to make love and cap-
tivate the hearts of his species; better fitted for
the bower than the field, more a Paris than a Hector,
a servant of Venus, than a votary of Mars. This in-
dividual possessed his own mind, and modelled his
exterior by an unusual calmness of manner; when
he spoke the man was rarely revealed in his counte-
nance; a secret purpose lurked in the bottom of his
eye, that showed his heart had other game than what
KARIALOONAH. 225
was started by his tongue. We looked, admired,
and looked again. Is this the man that rules the
Arabs of whom even the Turkish governors are
afraid?
There was time enough for us to have gone to
Jerusalem, but here we had determined to stay,
and had turned oft' the road into a dry stony field
on the left to take up our station, and pitch our
tents for the night, when the chieftain preferred
a pressing request to the noble traveller that we
should save ourselves that trouble and make his
house our home, with such accommodation as he
could afford. The request was made in such a
hospitable manner, and so ardently seconded by
his brother, that it was impossible to refuse it,
and it would have been imprudent had we been so
inclined.
Having accepted the invitation, we followed our
host across the road to his house on the other side
of the valley. Orders were immediately given to
prepare dinner for the party, and we walked with
him about the premises till it was ready. The
residence of this Arab chief is about two hours
and a half distant from Jerusalem; it is pleasantly
situated on the east side of the valley, and re*
sembles very much the mansion and offices of a
wealthy farmer in this country, having much ac-
commodation for men, horses, and cattle, without
regard to taste or appearance. Every thing about it
VOL. it. Q
226
KARIALOONAH.
k more useful than ornamental; the ground around
is terraced and of a good quality, little cultivated,
but abundantly showing its fertility in long grass,
olive, sycamore, and fig-trees, which are in greater
numbers on the other side of the valley than around
the house. On the top of a high mountain to the
south stands Modin, still called by the same name,
and still a place of strength; it is in the territory
of Abougosh, and known as the site of the city
and tombs of the illustrious and patriotic Mac-
cabees. Here Simon of that family set up seven
pyramids one against another for his father, his
mother, his four brethren and himself. Much
building and ruin still remain about the place.
There is little to be seen, however, as to beauty
or repair about the mansion of an Arab chief.
The sun sinks beneath the horizon, and we enter
his substantial dwelling. The prince himself led
the way up one pair of stairs, followed by the Earl
and Countess of Belmore and the gentlemen of
their suite. He conducted us into his principal
room, which was fitted up in the usual Eastern style.
Alow portion, cut off by a rail across the room for
the servants or visiters of inferior consideration to
stand without, and an elevated and a larger portion
within, provided with a low sofa round the sides on
the floor, for the accommodation of these visiters
whom the chief delighted to honor. One small
window illuminated the apartment j but it was
KAR1AL00NAII. 227
now beginning to get dark, and the light of the sun
was succeeded by that of a farthing candle, which
only served to make darkness a little more visible
than the faint rays of twilight.
On the appearance of dinner the farthing candle
was exchanged for one of larger dimensions, set
upon the floor; the dinner was also set down on
the floor at our feet, and we hitched down from
the edge of the sofa to reach it. It consisted of
a great profusion of rice, boiled fowl, different
kinds of boiled and minced meat and rice mixed
together, forming a kind of sausage inclosed in
the skin of a gourd resembling a cucumber,
and several other trifling articles, all of which
were so admirably seasoned, that having tasted
of one we felt no disposition to quit it for an-
other, and when we had done so were as little
inclined to return or to change it for a third or a
fourth: yet most of us I believe were induced to
try a little of each of them, and became such pro-
selytes to Arab cookery, that we protested in good
earnest we should wish to dine so every day in our
lives, as far as eating was concerned; though neither
roast-beef, nor plumb-pudding were among the
dishes.; Not so with respect to the auxiliary im-
plements of feeding, which were rather of an
awkward description, though ancient as our mouths,
and all of us had them in our finger ends. Forks
and knives there were none, and only one spoon
q2
2^8 KAIUALOONAH.
to help a little lebn or sour milk upon the rice.
When the invitation to commence the attack issued
from the lips of our landlord, we looked at each
other as much as to say, "how shall we proceed?"
The good man himself sat by, and, out of respect
for his guests, did not mean to partake of any thing
till they were satisfied, which Lord Belmore per-
ceiving, immediately requested that he would set
us the example, and pressing him thereto, then
"bismilla," in the name of the Lord, a pretty general,
though not an unusual signal among the Arabs to
commence the act of manducation, he tucked up
the long dangling sleeves of his shirt as far as his
elbow, and thrust his washed hand into the moun-
tain of rice that smoked before him, and having
taken a handful he formed it into an oblong ball by
folding his fist, which, when done, he put his finger
and thumb behind it, thrust it into his mouth, and
down his throat in the twinkling of an eye. Then he
tore off the leg of a fowl, part of which immediately
followed the rice, the rest was returned into the plate
to serve the next comer to the dish. Again he re-
turned to the rice, and again to the fowl or the beef5
judiciously alternating layer upon layer, handing,
mouthing, and swallowing, and hospitably inviting
us to follow his example, and instructing us how
to ball the rice and thrust it into our mouths. No
ceremony or city civilization here. His brother
followed at a distance, and did not begin till after
KARIALOONAH. 22$
much intreaty; but once engaged, played quite as
good a fist as Abougosh himself. Thus we all went
on eating, talking, laughing and enjoying ourselves,
till abundant repletion taught us to desist; then
Al ham de lelahi, glory to God, we are satisfied,
and a servant comes round with a pitcher full of
water, part of which he pours upon our hands, we
wash, and it falls into the basin below, then having
dried he receives the towel, and goes round to per-
form the same ceremony to the next, and thus
makes the tour of the company.
Meanwhile the persons of less consideration com-
menced repasting on what we had left, and after all
Iiad done, rumy fragments were carried away to re-
gale the other members of the family who could not
appear* Adam's wine we drank ad libitum, and at
the end of the repast in came pipes of tobacco, and
a strong cup of coffee without milk or sugar* Some
of us partook of the islamitic beverage; but most of
the party seemed more inclined for our own exhila-
rating cup of tea, which being proposed to our
hospitable entertainer, he was all compliance, and
looked as if he himself should like to try a little
of it. The tea equipage was forthwith unpacked
from our luggage, and presently the cups that cheer,
but not inebriate, mantled on the floor. They were
handed round in succession to Ibrahim Abougosh,
his brother, and his green-coated companion, whom
we might have been tempted to call the king of
230 KARIALGONAH.
the Fairies, bat we found that he was only a shiekh
of the second or third water, and proprietor of a
considerable village and territory in the neighbor-
hood of Abougosh, where he resided, about a quarter
of an hour's ride from Jerusalem. They eagerly
tasted our celebrated infusion, and though not very
forward in their encomiums, I dare say wished to
pronounce it good: and I can readily believe that
on a palate saturated with the fumes of tobacco,
and accustomed to receive as a luxury the harsh
and bitter draught of a pure unqualified infusion
of ground coffee-beans, the softened and elegant
beverage of tea would make but a faint and insipid
impression; as the chastened and refund harmony
of civilized society have not half the attractions
for the ear of the untutored savage, as his own
boisterous and discordant mirth. Each of them drank
about half a cupful, and called it tayeep, tayeep
hem tayeep, good, good, aye good, and handed it
to his nephew, his son, or his neighbour next in
consideration, to finish and pronounce his verdict
on it in his turn. This is a common practice among
the Arabs, and is considered as a manifestation of
their respect and cordiality towards the individual,
and their willingness to share with him, the person
so honored, the half of their support. However,
for all that, I should not choose to trust to their
professions, and would farther observe, that though
such dishing about may be a compliment with
KARIALOONAIi.
231
them, it was often an annoyance to some of us to
be called on, as a token of friendship, to swallow
their tepid slops, when we had plenty of good tea
and coffee at our command, which we could drink
untroubled or undefiled with any beard but our own.
When the business of dinner was concluded, Lord
Belmore sent for his letter of introduction from the
Lady Hester Stanhope. The existence of this let-
ter had been previously communicated to both bro-
thers, and when his Lordship showed it to Abdel
Rahman, at Yaffa, who escorted us thither, he took
it into his hand, and insisted on opening it imme-
diately, saying it is all one thing whether the letter
be addressed to my brother or myself. However,
the noble traveller thought differently, and having
recovered the letter, delivered it now with the seal
untouched, into the hands of the person to whom
it was directed. The epistle of the noble Lady, or,
as she is called in the country, the Christian wo-
man, was most graciously received, and read first
by the chief, and then by his brother, both of whom
expressed the greatest respect and friendship for the
Lady Hester Stanhope, as, indeed, did every Turk
or Arab whom we ever heard mention her name.
Abougosh himself informed us that he had once
entertained her ladyship and suite in his house, and
exulted in the honor that she had done him in ac-
cepting his hospitality. His brother put her a ques-
tion, to which a laugh was the answer, How she
232 KARIALOONAH.
thought of travelling With so many maid-servants,
and not one husband?
He showed us with pride a telescope that had
been sent him as a present by Sir Sidney Smith,
along with an Italian letter, which he requested our
interpreter to translate, as he had not yet been in-
formed of its contents. He talked with rapture of
the gallant admiral, and professed great friendship
for the English nation; and I believe I may say,
without incurring the charge of partiality, that all
over the Levant the Russians are the most dreaded,
and the English are the most esteemed. Again and
again have I been told, both by Turks and Arabs,
€( If an Englishman give his word, we believe him;
for an Englishman speaks the truth/' May this con-
tinue to be the character of our countrymen, and
the existence of our nation will only terminate with
the existence of the globe,
Thus we continued to pass the evening agree-
ably, But where the parties are ignorant of each
other's language, and, in a great degree, of each
other's habits and pursuits, the subjects of convers-
ation are soon exhausted, being few, and of little
interest, Every sentence filtered through the lips
of an interpreter, loses its choicest value, all the
seasoning and unction of individuality evaporate
in translation. Facts are useful things; but they
are yawning ingredients in the cup of amusement.
When -the hour of mirth and hilarity comes round,
KARIALOONAH. 233
one fool outweighs in the balance a thousand phi-
losophers. Cocker, Cudworth, and tobacco, may
make you sleep, but they will rarely make you
smile. Such a sentiment seemed to pervade all the
members of the party, and imagining us to be some-
what fatigued with our journey, about eight o'clock
Abougosh and his brother wished us good night.
The Earl and Countess of Belmore and their family
remained in the room where we had dined and
spent the evening, fitting up their own cots and
hammocks as well as they could; while Captain
Corry, the Reverend Mr. Holt, and myself, were
accommodated with our own beds on the floor of
an adjoining apartment, of about one-fourth of the
dimensions of the one in which we had left the
noble family. Yet this was the best accommodation
in the house of the greatest man in the country.
Next morning we left our beds at an early hour;
but the earliest of the party was preceded by Abou-
gosh. On quitting the apartment, and going to
the top of the stair, where a low wall between his
two houses furnishes a charming prospect of the
valley below, I found him sitting on his heels in the
shade, although the sun had scarcely shone on his
abode. He held his pipe in his hand, which he had
just taken from his lips, to address a party of his
men whom he had called around him, and whom,
it appeared, he was about to despatch on some
piratical expedition, For be it known that this
234 KARIALOONAII.
chieftain keeps a number of well mounted cavalry
on constant service, besides a corps de reserve al-
ways at hand, to be ready on emergencies to run
to this or that quarter to protect his frontiers, or to
make reprisals from caravans or pilgrims that pass
within his reach. So that but for our introduc-
tions, we should probably have had an opportunity
of defending ourselves against the attacks of his
myrmidons, or appealing to the glorious passport
of the English name for our title to travel unmo-
lested through this land of plunderers and thieves.
We had, however, made friends of the mammon of
unrighteousness, and instead of being pillaged of
our goods, were hospitably entertained and lodged
in his house. The chieftain kindly saluted me on
my approach, and invited me to sit down beside
him, which I readily did, though not on my heels,
having never learnt to assume the posture. The
servant immediately brought me a pipe, and after-
wards a cup of coffee, which I continued to enjoy
while Abougosh proceeded in his instructions to
his attendants. Here the man was all alive, his
sleeping energies were roused, every faculty of his
soul was braced, and every fibre of his body in
action; the muddy reserve was cleared from the
bottom of his eyes, which shot forth a keen and
living intelligence that pierced the inmost soul of
his hearers. I did not understand the third of what
he said; but his looks and gestures spoke folios,
KARIALOONAH. 235
and would have explained themselves to the deaf*
At length the conference ended, the attendants
withdrew, and Abougosh, smoothing up his face,
laid his energies asleep, and showing that he who
had played the lion could also play the lamb, or
the tender parent, requested me to see an afflicted
child who had been confined with typhus fever for
about five weeks. To this I readily consented, and
having conducted me to the sick room, he left me
with the patient and its mother, and proceeded to
pay his respects to his noble visiters.
On my return from the sick room, breakfast was
spread upon the floor, and orders given to load the
camels and the mules; and with all possible de-
spatch we got ready, and sallied forth from the
castle of our Arab chief, greatly delighted with his
hospitality, and not less with the idea of reaching
Jerusalem in two hours and a half from the time of
starting. As Abougosh frequently visits Jerusalem,
the parting scene was nothing more than a simple
good morning; he saw us all mounted at the gate,
and bade us adieu. We had the pleasure of seeing
him frequently at the holy city. His brother con-
tinued to accompany us all the way.
The road between Karialoonah and Jerusalem
presents nearly the same features with that in the
other parts of the hill country which we had al-
ready passed. The mountains continued on the
right and on the left, with here and there a tri-
236 KARIALOONAH.
angular patch of low alluvial land, opening into a
narrow valley, pervaded by a small stream of water
that scarcely covered its pebbly bed. We passed
the villages of Caglione and Lefta, and a small
brook trickling down through the valley of Tur-
pentine; and having ascended the hill, where the
road was formed with considerable care, from the
edge of the rock passed the village of Abdelcader,
the property of our green-coated shiekh, on the
left, and in a few minutes having reached the sum-
mit, came in sight of Jerusalem, from which we
were distant about ten minutes' walk of our mules.
These plain embattled walls in the midst of a bar-
ren mountain track, do they inclose the city of
Jerusalem? That hill at a distance on our left sup-
porting a crop of barley, and crowned with a half
ruined hoary mansion, is that the Mount of Olives?
Where was the temple of Solomon, and where is
Mount Zion, the glory of the whole earth? The
end of a lofty and contiguous mountain bounds our
view beyond tthe city on the south. An insulated
rock peaks up on our right, and a broad flat-topped
mountain, furrowed by the plough, slopes down
upon our left. The city is straight before us; but
the greater part of it stands in a hollow that opens
to the east, and the walls being built upon the higher
ground on the north, and on the west, prevent the
interior from being seen in this direction. We path
down the gentle descent covered with well trod-
ARRIVAL AT JERUSALEM. 237
den grass, which neither the sun nor the passengers
had yet deprived of its verdure. The ground sinks
on our right into what has been called the valley of
the Son of Hinnom, which at the north-west corner
of the wall becomes a broad deep ravine, that passes
the gate of Yaffa or Bethlehem, and runs along the
western wall of the city. Arrived at the gate, though
guarded by Turkish soldiers, we pass without tribute
or interruption. The rosy countenance of Abdel
Rahman, the brother of Abougosh, like a handful
of gold, is every where a passport. The castle of
David, or to call it by its modern name, the tower of
the Pisons, is on our right, on our left is a rugged
stone wall inclosing a vacant field with a cistern, in
which the bathing Bathsheba was seen by the king
of Israel. The ruins are at the gates; but nothing
of the grandeur of the city appears. We turned
to the left where the houses commence on both
hands, and a few steps brought us to the Latin con-
vent of Saint Salvador. The Fathers and the inter-
preters in their robes immediately came to wel-
come us to the holy city, and with all possible de-
spatch the animals were relieved of their burdens,
and we and all our effects accommodated within its
sacred walls.
[ 238 ]
CHAPTER XIX.
LADIES NOT ADMITTED INTO THE FRANCISCAN CON-
VENT MEETING WITH OUR COUNTRYMEN OMAR
EFFENDI ENTRANCE INTO SOLOMON^ MOSQUE
DESCRIPTION OF JERUSALEM THE HOLY SEPUL-
CHRE THE MOUNT OF OLIVES BETHANY BETH-
LEHEM—st. John's in the desert, &c
Come now and see the City of the Prophets and
Apostles, walk round the walls of Jerusalem, and
consider the woes of Mount Zion.
By the laws of the holy Franciscan Brotherhood,
ladies cannot be admitted within the precincts of
the convent, either to visit or reside. But for the
accommodation of those whom either curiosity or
devotion may induce to visit the holy city, the
monks of St. Salvador have erected a comfortable
house on the other side of the street, guarded by a
high wall and a strong door, like that of the con-
vent itself, and quite secluded. In this appendicle,
or new quarter of the monastery, Lord and Lady
Belmore took up their residence, and here, on en-
tering, we met, to our great joy, our much esteem-
ed countrymen the Honorable Captain Irby and
Captain Mangles, of the Royal Navy, whom we
had formerly met at Cairo, and Mr. Bankes, whose
researches all over the Levant have been of the
most interesting and extensive nature, and Mr.

IcCM N (U)CiR A F UJ11]<t' A111 11J'1, A ^T O V , 11'1 U 'I\S \ H, V\ \ I \- IT W 1>\ w \ I ft o "*r s
JERUSALEM. 239
Legh, already well known to the public by his in-
teresting travels in Nubia, and last of all Mrs. Bel-
zoni, the wife of the celebrated traveller of that
name. All these intelligent and enterprizing tra-
vellers had been in Jerusalem for some time, and
we had the pleasure of enjoying their enlightened
society during the greater part of our stay in the
holy city.
In the morning after our arrival, before I had
well got out of bed, the servant of the convent
knocked at the door of my apartment, and informed
me that the prince of the Arabs wanted to speak
with me. I desired him to be admitted, the door
instantly flew back, and in walked my old acquaint-
ance, Abdel Rahman, the brother of Abougosh, our
guide from Yaffa. After the usual forms of salutation
were gone through, he said that he came to me on
the part of Omar Effendi Nakib el SchereefF, capo
verde, or head of the green, who wished to see me
on account of a chronic affection in his eyes. Hav-
ing despatched my unceremonious toilet, we pro-
ceeded together down the street as far as the ruins
of the porta judiciale, where turning first to the
right, and then to the left, we filed along a narrow
dusty street, and passing a soap-work, came to the
house of this distinguished personage. We entered
through a vault that served the double office of
stable and warehouse, where a number of horses
were tied by the feet, and bales of goods lying piled
240 JERUSALEM,
Up beside them j the next door ushered us iiito &
court where were numbers of seats after the orien-
tal fashion, with high wooden canopies over them
for the visiters to enjoy the open air without being
annoyed by an oppressive sun, and where a posse
of Turks, with their legs folded under them, were
regaling themselves with the morning refreshment
of coffee and tobacco. They took their pipes from
their mouths and respectfully saluted my Arab com-
panion; a conversation might have ensued, but a
servant immediately showed us up an outside stair,
and into a small room at the top of it, where we
found the master of the house seated along with a
knot of jovial long-bearded gentlemen enjoying
themselves in the same manner with their brethren
out of doors* They all rose up and received us in
the most gracious manner, laying their hands upon
their hearts, and expressing a degree of warmth
and feeling greater than I ever witnessed even in
any of the followers of Mahomet, and which of
course I ascribed to their regard for my conductor;
it being contrary to the usual practice of Mussul-
mans, and especially of Turks, to rise and salute
a Christian in that manner. The worthy Schereeff
set us down on his right hand, and after a few words
to Abdel Rahman, addressed himself to me, and
having first welcomed me to the holy city, or as it
is here called Gouts, began to inform me why he
had so anxiously wished to see me. The inflam-
JERUSALEM. 241
mation in his eyes had certainly a formidable ap-
pearance. It was of eight months' standing and
daily getting worse, so that he entertained serious
apprehensions that blindness would be the result,
and at no great distance of time.
I endeavored, as well as I could, to comprehend
his long learned sentences, and I believe my replies
and prescriptions, if not equally long and equally
erudite, were at least equally hard to be understood
by the person to whom they were addressed, and
whom they were intended to benefit; for besides
my having but a very imperfect knowledge of the
language, I had here to contend with a different
dialect; the Arabic spoken in Palestine being
very different from that spoken in Egypt, as Scotch
is to English nearly. However, as it was of import-
ance that we should clearly understand each other,
the Capo Verde sent out for an interpreter, and his
servant laying hold of the first polyglot he met,
brought in a Frank shoe-maker, who unfortunately
from a palsied tongue pronounced his words so
indistinctly, that I had nearly as much difficulty
in understanding his Italian as the Turk's Arabic.
However, between the two we got on tolerably
well. On hearing me pronounce that he would
probably derive considerable advantage from re-
peated scarifications of the inner membrane of the
eyelid, he protested strenuously against it; but on
being farther assured that it was the best mode of
VOL. II, R
242 JERUSALEM,
treatment for the present state of his eyes, and that
it had proved of great service to many sufferers
from the same complaint, both in Egypt and Pales-
tine, he expressed a wish to see the operation per-
formed. An ophthalmic patient was immediately
produced, who was willing to submit to the opera-
tion, to oblige the Capo Verde, if it should be judged
necessary in his case. On examining the eye, how-
ever, this person was found to be affected with ca-
taract, and it was explained to the worthy Schereeff
that the operation that was necessary for the reco-
very of such an eye, was altogether different from the
one that it was proposed to perform on his; that
this was quite incapable of vision, but perfectly free
from inflammation; a sentence that was immedi-
ately re-echoed by the patient, and sanctioned by
all the long-bearded Turks, calling out sahe, sahe,
right, right. The next that was brought up for ex-
amination was a case of staphyloma; this was also
explained as an unfit subject for undergoing the
operation that had been advised for the eyes of the
Capo Verde. After him a third patient was produced,
with the prefatory remark, "This is a Christian, how
would you treat him?" Exactly in the same manner
I replied, as if he were a Mussulman affected
with the same complaint. Disease knows no reli-
gion, neither ought the prescription. This hap-
pened to be a fit case for the operation, which was
immediately performed in his preseilce, and which
JERUSALEM. 243
the patient bore remarkably well, without wincing
or making a noise; after the eye had bled for some-
time, he was desired to wash it, and declared that
it was much easier than before the operation.
This screwed up the courage of the noble Turk,
(noble, I believe, is the practical signification of the
word schereeff,) who now expressed his determina-
tion to follow the example of my Christian patient;
a resolution which was highly applauded by all his
attendants. He preferred, however, having the ope-
ration done in an adjoining room, which was both
larger and better lighted, the one w^hich we occu-
pied being very small, and lighted chiefly from the
door. For though I had informed him, and he had
had an opportunity of judging for himself, that the
operation was but a mere scratch, yet both he, and
his visiters considered it in the most serious light,
and on entering the other apartment, the first thing
he did was to kneel down and say his prayers, ac-
companied by the Mufti or Capo Legge, who is his
cousin-german, and several other Turks, some of
whom belonged to Jerusalem, others were Santones
from Damascus. They prayed all altogether most
devoutly and fervently, and bowed themselves down
to the sofa on which they knelt, and seemed to kiss
it, and could not have been more in earnest, or
more importunate had he been going to be put to
the torture or tied to the stake to be burnt, or sub-
jected to the most dangerous operation. When the
r 2
244 JERUSALEM,
prayers were ended, he came and sat down beside
me, on another part of the divan apparently re-
signed to his fate. However, when I proceeded to
handle the eye, and evert the eyelids, he stopt me
to bargain that I should do his exactly as I had
done the Christian's, that is to make only three
incisions in each eye; a circumstance which I was
quite unconscious of: however, both the Capo Verde
and his friends had caught it, and imagining that I
certainly performed the operation in the best style
to the Christian, or that some important secret
lurked in the number three, requested that it should
be performed in every respect the same; with all
of which I promised to comply, and immediately
proceeded to operate, while his friends returned to
their prayers. One of his servants held a basin of
water, and an old Christian woman who acted as
the family apothecary superintended. When the
operation was finished on one eye, his friends left
their prayers, and came around him, and as it bled
freely, they expressed their gratitude in pious eja-
culations, which were emphatically reiterated at
every bit of clotted blood that was taken out of
the eye, and which Omar Effendi never suffered to
be thrown away till he had taken it between his
finger and thumb, squeezing and holding it up, pro-
testing that it was diseased flesh, which the more
knowing ones were not willing to allow; adding
that his eye would now get well for the disease was
JERUSALEM.
245
cut away, that he felt that eye move easier and
better already; to which all his friends answered,
nshalla or ishalla, a word which the followers of
Mahomet pronounce with more devotional fervor
than any word that I ever heard pronounced by
any people in any language, and which is equiva-
lent to God grant, or may it please God; a prayer
in which all joined, for the man is a good man, and
much esteemed and beloved. Having finished the
operation on one eye, I proceeded to the other,
being reminded of my promise to stick to the num-
ber three, and his friends returned to their prayers,
which they left as before on my withdrawing the
lancet, to comfort their friend and to join with him
in pious sentences of congratulation which they
utter with much feeling and solemnity.
It was delightful to witness the cordial affection
with which they sympathized in this good man's
distress, and the light of joy that gladdened on
their countenance when they saw him from under
the edge of the lancet, and heard him declare that
his sufferings were diminished: yet these are the
people whom we are accustomed to stigmatize as
savage and untractable, without considering who
or what maketh us to differ. The Turks are a
noble and a high-spirited people, liberally gifted
by nature; but untaught by science, and unsoft-
ened by religion; their reasoning faculties are as
little improved as their passions are uncontrouled.
~46 JERUSALEM.
They are what those unfortunate men would re-
duce us to be who would rob us of our Bible, the
ground-work of all our privileges, the palladium of
all our enjoyments, and the well-spring of all our
hopes. The noble patient examined with equal
anxiety every clot of blood that was taken from
this eye, as he had done those that were taken from
the other, and expressed himself much relieved,
and his willingness to take any medicine that I
should recommend, to lay aside his caook, or heavy
Effendi cap, to keep his head lightly covered, to
avoid the irritation of light which, in Jerusalem, is
particularly severe, by reason of the white stony
surface from which it is reflected; in short, no
physician could desire a more promising patient.
The whole business was closed with the eternal
afterpiece of tobacco and coffee. I promised to re-
peat my visit in the evening, or next morning at the
farthest, and as soon as possible withdrew; Omar Ef-
fendi and his whole party rising most respectfully as
I got up, to wish me good morning, and to express
their hopes of seeing me again in the evening.
This simple operation, which could easily have
been finished in three minutes, what with explain-
ing, examining, praying, and palavering, smoking
tobacco, and drinking coffee, occupied me fully
more than four hours. None of the Orientals know
the value of time, or have any idea of despatch in
business. If it can be readily done to-day, perhaps
JERUSALEM. 247
it is done; but if it interfere any way with their
coddling enjoyments, it is put off till to-morrow,
and to-morrow, with the most perfect unconcern.
Taher Effendi el Schereeff, Mufti, Capo legge, or
head of the law, accompanied me down stairs, and
informed me that the festival, held in honor of
Nebby Mousy, or the prophet Moses, was to take
place next day, and kindly requested that I would
accompany him to it j that a horse, and every other
requisite would be ready for me, and that he should
feel very happy if I would accept the invitation j
that we should remain there all night, and return
the following day: the nature of the festival was
thus explained to me. The mosk of Nebby Mousy
is built over the tomb of the prophet Moses, the
legislator of the Hebrews, which the Mussulmans
profess to know, and which they honor equally
with the sepulchres of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob,
David, and the prophets. It is at the distance of
seven hours from Jerusalem, on the road to Jericho,
and is a noble and extensive building. Omar Ef-
fendi, the head of the mosque, goes there at stated
periods, and makes a feast for the poor, gives them
plenty to eat and drink, and having delivered a
discourse to them, sends them away. Most of the
principal Turks in Jerusalem accompany him*
I should certainly have been extremely happy to
have availed myself of the kind invitation of Taher
Effendi, but it would have occasioned me to be
24S JERUSALEM.
absent one whole night from the Holy City, which
was not at that time convenient. I was, therefore,
tinder the necessity of declining the civility which
he intended me; and having returned him many
thanks for his politeness, left him in the court, and
set off With the interpreter, very impatient at hav-
ing been detained so long. Crowds of other pa-
tients were waiting to consult me as I passed
through the court; but the day being far advanced,
I desired them to wait till to-morrow. When we
arrived at the street, which was no easy task, I
found the servant of the Capo Verde waiting for
me, with two fat sheep, which, he informed me,
Were a present from his master: I had formerly
been in the habit of refusing these sort of fees; but
was given to understand, that if I did so on the
present occasion, it would be considered as a very
unkind piece of behaviour towards my noble pa-
tient, and an intimation on my part that I under-
valued all his civilities, an impression that I by no
means wished to create; so giving the servant a
couple of piastres, desired him to drive them to the
convent, and deliver them into the hands of Lord
Belmore's cook.
Compensation in money, for medical advice, is by
no means the general custom in the Levant; unless
the practitioner is settled in the country, when his
charges are paid according to a previous agreement,
stipulated between the parties, before the visit is
JERUSALEM. 249
made. If no such agreement be entered into, the
physician is likely to be but ill-requited for his toil.
A regularly bred French surgeon, practising in the
Levant, and highly competent for exercising his
profession, informed me that he had frequently been
offered five paras, which amount to about one penny
of our money, for his visit and advice, and that too
by people in comfortable circumstances; and if he
did not choose to accept of it, must remain un-
rewarded. The interpreter is always paid by the
person who calls the physician. If it be a surgical
case requiring an operation, a regular bargain is
made between the patient and practitioner. If the
patient be satisfied with the terms proposed, so
much for the operation, and so much for subsequent
treatment, the money is paid down, and the sur-
geon takes up the knife, and performs the first
part of the agreement. If, on the other hand, the
patient be dissatisfied, which is generally the case
in the first instance, he goes away, and after a little
delay returns again, perhaps several times, and
attempts to cheapen the terms of the agreement
proposed. I have known several cases of this kind,
and believe it to be the general custom. It is worth
no gentleman's while to study the healing art in
a country where he is obliged to practise it on such
conditions. The coquette who will not purchase
diamonds, may decorate in paste, and those who
-50 JERUSALEM.
refuse the just value, for truth, must submit to
die by quackery and deceit,
In consequence of having been detained so long
at the house of Omar EfFendi, I missed the oppor-
tunity of accompanying the Earl and Countess of
Belmore, in their visit to Abdel Karym, the gover-
nor of Jerusalem ; so on my return to the convent
I breakfasted, and immediately proceeded by myself
to explore the ruins and remains of the Holy City.
There are two accounts of the ancient city of
Jerusalem, which have come down to us with the
sanction of high authority. The first is to be found
in the third chapter of Nehemiah, who built the
walls of the city after the return of the Jews from
the Babylonish captivity. My attention was par-
ticularly directed to this account, by the Countess
of Belmore, who visited the memorable spots in
and about Jerusalem, with all the zeal and feeling
of a pious Christian, taking the Holy Scriptures
for her guide, while at the same time she availed
herself of all the light that modern travellers have
been able to collect for the illustration of this most
interesting portion of sacred topography.
The other account is from the pen of the Jewish
historian, Josephus, who had the misfortune to
witness the sacking and utter destruction of his
native city by the victorious arms of Titus Ves-
pasian.
JERUSALEM. 251
It is a tantalizing circumstance, however, for the
traveller who wishes to recognize in his walks the
site of particular buildings, or the scenes of me-
morable events, that the greater part of the objects
mentioned in the description both of the inspired
and Jewish historian, are entirely removed, and
razed from their foundation, without leaving a single
trace or name behind to point out where they stood.
Not an ancient tower, or gate, or wrall, or hardly
even a stone remains. The foundations are not
only broken up, but every fragment of which they
were composed is swept away, and the spectator
looks upon the bare rock with hardly a sprinkling
of earth to point out her gardens of pleasure, or
groves of idolatrous devotion. And when we con-
sider the palaces, and towers, and walls about Je-
rusalem, and that the stones of which some of them
were constructed were 30 feet long, 15 feet broad,
seven and a half feet thick, we are not more aston-
ished at the strength, and skill, and perseverance
by which they were constructed, than shocked by
the relentless and brutal hostility by which they
were shattered and overthrown, and utterly re-
moved from our sight. A few gardens still remain
on the sloping base of Mount Zion, watered from
the pool of Siloam; the gardens of Gethsemane
are still in a sort of ruined cultivation; the fences
are broken down, and the olive trees decaying, as
if the hand that dressed and fed them were with-
§52
JERUSALEM*
drawn; the Mount of Olives still retains a lan-
guishing verdure, and nourishes a few of those trees
from which it derives its name; but all round about
Jerusalem the general aspect is blighted, and bar-
ren; the grass is withered; the bare rock looks
through the scanty sward, and the grain itself, like
the staring progeny of famine, seems in doubt
whether to come to maturity, or die in the ear.
The vine that was brought from Egypt is cut off1
from the midst of the land; the vineyards are
wasted; the hedges are taken away; and the graves
of the ancient dead are open and tenantless. How
is the gold become dim; and every thing that was
pleasant to the eye withdrawn. Jerusalem has heard
the voice of David and Solomon, of prophets and
apostles, and he who spake as man never spake
has taught in her synagogues and in her streets.
Before her legislators, her poets, and her apostles,
those of all other countries, became dumb, and
cast down their crowns, as unworthy to stand in
their presence. Once she was rich in every bless-
ing; victorious over all her enemies; and resting
in peace; with every man sitting under his own vine,
and under his own fig-tree, with none to disturb,
or to make him afraid. Jerusalem was the bright-
est of all the cities of the East, and fortified above
all other towns; so strong that the Roman con-
queror thereof, and the master of the whole world
besides, exclaimed, on entering the city of David,
JERUSALEM. 253
and looking up at the towers which the Jews had
abandoned, "Surely, we have had God for our
assistance in the war; for what could human hands
or human machines do against these towers?" It
is no other than God who has expelled the Jews
from their fortifications. Their temple was the
richest in the whole world; their religion was the
purest; and their God was the Lord of Hosts.
Never was there a people favored like this people;
but they set at nought the counsel of their God;
trusted in their walls, and walked after the ima-
ginations of their own hearts j their city was given
up to the spoiler; the glory departed from Israel,
and the sceptre from Judah; the day of vengeance
arrived; and the rebellious sons of Jacob are scat-
tered, and peeled, and driven under every wind of
heaven, without a nation or country to call their
own; unamalgamated, persecuted, plundered, and
reviled, like the ruins of a blighted tower, whose -
fragments remain to show the power that smote it,
and to call aloud to heaven and earth for repair.
What a tremendous lesson for the kings and people
of the earth to learn wisdom, and, in the midst of
their prosperity, to recognize the hand from which
their comforts flow!
It is impossible for the Christian traveller to look
upon Jerusalem with the same feelings with which
he would set himself to contemplate the ruins of
Thebes, of Athens, or of Rome, or of any other
city which the world ever saw. There is in all the
254 JERUSALEM.
doings of the Jews, their virtues and their vices,
their wisdom and their folly, a height and a depth,
a breadth and a length that angels cannot fathom;
their whole history is a history of miracles, the
precepts of their sacred book are the most profound,
and the best adapted to every situation in which
man can be placed; they moderate him in prospe-
rity, sustain him in adversity, guide him in health,
console him in sickness, support him at the close
of life, travel on with him through death, live with
him throughout the endless ages of eternity, and
Jerusalem lends its name to the eternal mansions
of the blessed in heaven, which man is admitted to
enjoy through the atonement of Christ Jesus, who
was born of a descendant of Judah.
But we must turn to consider the Jerusalem that
now is. In Egypt and Syria it is universally called
Gouts or Koudes, which means holy, and is still a
respectable good looking town; it is of an irregular
shape, approaching nearest to that of a square; it
is surrounded by a high embattled wall, which, ge-
nerally speaking, is built of the common stone of the
country which is a compact lime-stone. It has six
gates, one of which looks to the west and is called
the gate of Yaffa or Bethlehem, because the road to
these places passes through it; two look to the north;
one is called the gate of Sham or Damascus; the
other the gate of Herod; the fourth gate looks to the
east, or the valley of Jehoshaphat, and is called St.
Stephen's gate, because here the protomartyr was
JERUSALEM. 255
stoned to death; it is close by the temple, or mosque
of Omar, and leads to the gardens of Gethsemane
and the Mount of Olives, Bethany, Jericho, and
all the east of Jerusalem; the fourth gate leads
into the temple or haram schereeff, which was
formerly called the Church of the presentation, be-
cause the Virgin Mary is supposed to have entered
by this gate, to present her son, our blessed Savior,
in the temple. On account of a turn in the wall,
this gate, though in the east wall of the city, looks
to the south towards Mount Zion; near to this
there is another gate, which is small, not admitting
either horses or carriages, of which last, however,
there is none in Jerusalem, and from the wall resum-
ing its former direction looks to the east, it is called
the Dung-gate. The last is called Zion-gate, or the
Gate of the Prophet David; it looks to the south, and
is in that part of the wall which passes over Mount
Zion, and runs between the brook Kedron or valley
of Jehoshaphat on the east, and the deep ravine called
the valley of the Son of Hinnom; on the west, leav-
ing about two-thirds of Mount Zion on the south or
outside of the walls, it is nearly opposite to the
mosque which is built over the sepulchre of David.
The longest wall is that which faces this, and is on
the north side of the city, it runs between the val-
ley of Gihon on the west, and the valley of Jeho-
shaphat on the east. I walked round the city on
the outside of the wall in an hour and twenty mi-
£56 JERUSALEM,
mites, and Lady Belmore rode round it, on her ass,
in an hour and a quarter, and the whole circum-
ference, as measured by Maundrell, a most accurate
traveller, is two miles and a half.
The population of the Holy City, is estimated at
twenty thousand souls, five thousand of whom are
Mussulmans, five thousand Christians, and ten thou-
sand Jews, The Mussulmans reside chiefly round
the haram schereeff or noble mosque, which occu-
pies the site of Solomon's temple in the eastern
quarter of the city. The Christians reside chiefly
in the neighborhood of their own convents, which
occupy the higher and western parts of the city.
Those of the Roman Catholic persuasion, near the
convent of St. Salvadore, which is in the north-west
corner of the city, on the sloping edge of what is
supposed to be Mount Gihon. Those of the Greek
church, lower down to the south-east, on what
probably formed part of the ancient Acra j near
to which is the small and ruined convent of Saint
John, of chivalrous celebrity, and which is at pre-
sent occupied by Syrian Christians. To the south,
and nearly on the summit of Mount Zion, stands
the Armenian convent of Saint James. This is by
far the most magnificent convent in Jerusalem and
has a spacious garden attached to it enclosed by a
high wall. The Armenian patriarch, a dignified
venerable old man, resides in the convent, as does
also the bishop, and a great number of the inferior
JERUSALEM. 257
clergy* The apartments in this convent are small,
but well furnished and extremely comfortable; all
of them with sofas occupying three sides of the
apartment and covered with rich Persian carpets.
The usual dress of the Armenian clergy is dark
blue; they even carry it so far as to wear pocket-
handkerchiefs of the same color. The dresses in
which the clergy officiate are the most sumptuous
I ever saw, excepting some of the dignitaries in
St. Peter's at Rome. Their church is also the richest
and largest in Jerusalem, and, what is better, it is
more numerously attended than any other of the
Christian churches there.
Pilgrims- of this persuasion come in great num-
bers from Constantinople, Armenia, Egypt, and
all parts of the Levant, to keep the feast of Easter
in Jerusalem, and to dip their shirt in the waters
of the Jordan, which they carefully preserve for the
last covering of their body, when prepared for the
tomb. Their pilgrims are all lodged in the convent.
Both clergy and laity keep Lent in the most rigid
manner, and often to the prejudice of their health.
I have frequently been consulted by the patriarch,
the bishop, and others of their clergy, and respect-
able travellers and merchants, relative to their com-
plaints, which seemed to originate from their de-
fective and abstemious diet; and, on advising them
for the good of their health, that they should relax
a little their rigorous system of mortification, they
VOL. II. s
258 JERUSALEM.
have uniformly replied, that their duty to God is
greater than their duty to themselves, that a few
days would end it, and they would on no account
break the rules of the fast.
When Lent is over, some of the uncaged Asiatics
indulge rather freely in the pleasures of the table,
and the following day is generally one of groans
and head-aches. I was requested to visit an Ar-
menian merchant, who had just arrived from Da-
mascus, and whose jovial spirit had rather outstript
the progress of Lent. He had caught a cold on
his journey, and when I visited him, was laboring
under an inflammatory attack on the chest, with
which he had been seized two or three days before,
but which had been much exasperated by rejoicing
in company with his friends on the expiration of that
tedious period of mortification and self-denial. I
desired that venesection should be performed im-
mediately. He replied, that he believed he would
be the better for it, and would have it done without
delay, provided it was a lucky day for the operation.
I assured him it was; but not relying on my word,
he pulled an Armenian almanack out of his pocket*
and referred to the table of lucky and unlucky
days for letting blood, when, unfortunately for my
advice, this proved to be of the latter description;
on which he instantly declared, that he would
sooner suffer any pain, however severe it might be,
than run the risk of blood-letting on such a day j
JERUSALEM. 259
but that to-morrow which was marked with a more
kindly star, his blood should flow for the alleviation
of his complaint, in any quantity that I might
judge necessary; and no argument that I could
employ was adequate to shake his resolution. He
said he knew that the English set no value on such
rules; but it would be better if they did, for it
was God's men who established them: the state-
ment was final. His almanack was his God and
his physician, and the man was left to try the con-
sequence of trusting to it.
The Armenians are a strong good-looking race
of people, highly dignified in their deportment,
civil and industrious. There are many of them
settled in Jerusalem in comfortable circumstances.
Their houses are well kept and well furnished,
On visiting them the stranger is received with a
warmth unusual even among the Greeks, and it
is the more agreeable for being sincere. He is
treated with coffee and a pipe of tobacco, a glass
of liquor, cakes, biscuits, and different kinds of
sweetmeats which are handed to him by the mis-
tress of the family, her daughter, or servant; all
being usually in attendance, although there should
be only one guest to be served. They take the cup
or glass from him when he has done with it, and
kiss his hand as they receive it. They pour water
on his hands for him to wash after he has doae
eating, and give him a towel to dry them, on re-
s 2
260 JERUSALEM.
ceiving which, they again lay hold of the hand
and kiss it, and then retire to their station with the
servant near the door. Mother, daughter, and
man-servant are all alike candidates to take the
cup and kiss the hand, and, in point of etiquette,
it matters not to which of them the guest delivers
it. They seldom sit down in his presence, and
never without much intreaty, even though the
state of their health should be such as to render
it improper for them to stand; afraid that by so
doing they should be thought deficient in respect
to their visiter. In judging of national manners,
the great difficulty is to find an undisputed standard
to which we may refer all points of difference; but
I think I may safely say, that we manage these
things much better in England, and that any system
which would induce the Orientals to treat their
females with more respect, and introduce them
into public society, would go a great way towards
converting them to Christianity and every good
work, and till then they are likely to remain ig-
norant and uncultivated. The eye of the person
whom we love, and whose approbation we are
anxious to merit and possess, has more influence
upon our conduct than a thousand precepts. The
. Armenian ladies have a sedate and pleasant man-
ner, with much of the Madonna countenance ; their
eyes are generally dark and complexion florid, but
rarely enriched with that soft intelligent expres-
JERUSALEM.
261
sion which characterises the eye of the Greek or
Jewish female.
The Jews reside chiefly on the edge of Mount
Zion, and in the lower part of the city, which, in
the language of Scripture, is called the daughter
of Zion, near to the shambles, which are most
dreadfully offensive: in passing them on a summer
morning a person is almost afraid to draw his
breath, the inhalation of the vapor produces such
a deadening effect upon the whole system.
Many of the Jews are rich and in comfortable
circumstances, and possess a good deal of property
in Jerusalem; but they are careful to conceal their
wealth, and even their comfort, from the jealous eye
of their rulers, lest by awakening their cupidity
some vile, indefensible plot, should be devised to
their prejudice. In going to visit a respectable
Jew in the holy city, it is a common thing to pass
to his house over a ruined foreground and up an
awkward outside stair, constructed of rough un-
polished stones, that totter under the foot; but it
improves as you ascend, and at the top has a re-
spectable appearance, as it ends in an agreeable
platform in front of the house. On entering the
house itself, it is found to be clean and well fur-
nished, the sofas are covered with Persian carpets,
and the people seem happy to receive you. The
visiter is entertained with coffee and tobacco, as is
the custom in the houses of the Turks and Chris-
262
JERUSALEM,
tians. The ladies presented themselves with an ease
and address that surprised me, and recalled to my
memory the pleasing society of Europe. This
difference of manner arises from many of the Jewish
families in Jerusalem having resided in Spain or
Portugal, when the females had rid themselves of
the cruel domestic fetters of the East, and, on re-
turning to their beloved land, had very properly
maintained their justly acquired freedom and rank
in society. They almost all speak a broken Italian,
so that conversation goes on without the clumsy
aid of an interpreter.
It was the feast^of the Passover, and they were
all eating unleavened bread; some of which was
presented to me as a curiosity, and I partook of it
merely that I might have the gratification of eating
unleavened bread with the sons and daughters of
Jacob in Jerusalem; it is very insipid fare, and
no one Would eat it from choice. For the same
reason I went to the synagogue, of which there are
two in Jerusalem, although I only visited one. The
form of worship is the same as in this country, and
I believe in every country which the Jews inhabit.
The females have a separate part of the synagogue
assigned to them, as in the synagogues in Europe,
and in the Christian churches all over the Levant.
They are not, however, expected to be frequent,
or regular in their attendance on public worship.
The ladies generally make a point of going on the
JERUSALEM. Q63
Sunday, that is the Friday night or Saturday morn-
ing after they are married; and being thus intro-
duced in their new capacity, once a year is con-
sidered as sufficient compliance, on their part, with
the ancient injunction to assemble themselves to-
gether in the house of prayer. Like the votaries of
some Christian establishments, the Jewesses trust
more to the prayers o£ their priests than to their
own.
The synagogues in Jerusalem are both poor and
small, not owing to the poverty of their possessors,
but to the prudential motives above-mentioned:
yet it was delightful to mix with them in their de-
votions, and to see performed before your eyes
that ceremonial worship by the descendants of that
very people to whom it was delivered by the voice
of God. I should look at the ceremonies of Pagan
temples as a matter of little more than idle curi-
osity: but the ceremonies of the Jews dip into the
heart. This is the most ancient form of worship
in existence; this is the manner in which the God
of heaven was worshipped by Abraham and his
descendants, when all the other nations in the
world were sitting in darkness, or falling down to
stocks and stones. To the Jews were committed
the oracles of God. This is the manner in which
Moses and Elias, David and Solomon worshipped
the God of their fathers. This worship was in-
stituted by God himself, and in Jerusalem, the
264*
JERUSALEM.
chosen and appointed city; and on the rock of Sion,
God's holy hill, to sing a psalm of David in company
with the outcast race of Judah, winds to ecstasy
the heart. The vital history of the Christian faith
passes over the memory, and you feel as if you
joined your voice with those chosen spirits who
spoke through inspiration, and told the will of
God to man. The time will come when the
descendants of His ancient people shall join the
sang of Moses to the song of the Lamb, and, sing-
ing Hosannah to the son of David, confess His
power to save.
I never see the fine venerable aspect of a Jew,
but I feel for him as an elder brother. I have an
affection for him that far transcends my feeling for
a Greek or for a Roman, who have left the world
but childish rhythms and sprinklings of a ground-
less morality, compared with that pure and lofty
thought that pervades the sacred volume. I have
a desire to converse with him, and to know the
communings of a heart formed by the ancient
word of inspiration, unanointed and unannealed
by the consummating afflations of Christianity. I
would rather pity than persecute him for refusing
the gospel. The thunders of Sinai once rung in
his ears, need we wonder that they have sunk deep
into his heart? The rock must be struck before
the water will gush out. The coal must be warmed
before it can be fanned into a flame. The fort
JERUSALEM. c2()5
must be taken by gradual approaches. Sicha^us
must be abolished by little and little. They are a
hard working and industrious people; the world
has never been oppressed by their poor; the ob-
stinacy with which they cling to their institutions
shows the stuff that is in them. Plundered and
expatriated for the long period of eighteen hun-
dred years, they have earned their bread from
under the feet of those to whom the writings of
their fathers reveal the will of Heaven, and from
which we derive the soundest rules of life, and the
gladdening hopes of a future existence. One would
say that the son of Judah was a gem, whom every
Christian would be anxious to polish and refine,
by how much it is more blessed to give than to
receive. They have given to all; but, saving the
buffettings of tyranny and adversity, what have
they received from the world? The elements of
Christianity are incorporated in their institutions:
when they consider and know them they will see
that the religion of Jesus is but the consummation
of their own. Let us treat them like fellow crea-
tures: we owe them every thing, and they have not
more of the original contamination of human na-
ture than we ourselves.
The Jewesses in Jerusalem speak in a decided
and firm tone, unlike the hesitating and timid voice
of the Arab and Turkish females, and claim the
European privilege of differing from their husbands,
%M JERUSALEM.
and maintaining their own opinions. They are fair
and good looking j red and auburn hair are by no
means uncommon in either of the sexes. I never
saw any of them with veils; and was informed that
it is the general practice of the Jewesses in Jerusa-
lem to go with their faces uncovered; they are the
only females there who do so. Generally speaking,
I think they are disposed to be rather of a plethoric
habit; and the admirers of size and softness in the
fair sex, will find as regularly well-built fatties, with
double mouldings in the neck and chin, among the
fair daughters of Jerusalem, as among the fairer
daughters of England. They seem particularly lia-
ble to eruptive diseases; and the want of children is
as great a heart-break to them now as it was in the
days of Sarah.
In passing up to the synagogue I was particularly
struck with the mean and wretched appearance of
the houses on both sides of the streets, as well as
with the poverty of their inhabitants. Some of the
old men and old women bad more withered and
hungry aspects than any of our race I ever saw,
with the exception of the caverned dames at Gornou
in Egyptian Thebes, who might have sat in a stony
field as a picture of famine the year after the flood.
The sight of a poor Jew in Jerusalem has in it
something peculiarly aflfecting. The heart of this
wonderful people, in whatever clime they roam, still
turns to it as the city of their promised rest. They
JERUSALEM. £67
take pleasure in her ruins, and would lick the very
dust for her sake. Jerusalem is the centre around
which the exiled sons of Judah build, in airy dreams,
the mansions of their future greatness. In whatever
part of the world he may live, the heart's desire of
a Jew, when gathered to his fathers, is to be buried
in Jerusalem. Thither they return from Spain and
Portugal, from Egypt and Barbary, and other coun-
tries among which they have been scattered; and
when, after all their longings, and all their struggles
up the steeps of life, we see them poor, and blind,
and naked in the streets of their once happy Zion,
he must have a cold heart that can remain untouch-
ed by their sufferings, without uttering a prayer
that the light of a reconciled countenance would
shine on the darkness of Judah, and the day-star of
Bethlehem arise in their hearts.
The Jews are the best ciceronis in Jerusalem,
because they generally give the ancient names of
places which the guides and interpreters belonging
to the different convents do not. They are not for-
ward in presenting themselves, and must generally
be sought for.
The descent from Mount Zion to the bazar, in
the lower part of the town, is steep, and consider-
able. The street is causewayed, with a row of houses
on each hand. The bazars are covered on the top,
and are but ill provided either with clothing or
jewellery. Passing them on the road towards the
2G8 JERUSALEM,
Porta Judiciale, all through the lower part of the
town, the rout lies between two immense heaps of
ruins that extend far and wide, in the very centre of
the city. They look as if the houses had been burnt
down many centuries ago. And if the Porta Judi-
ciale is to be regarded as the remains of the Gate
of Judgment destroyed by the Romans, I see no
reason for denying the ruins here to have been co-
eval with it. The stones are all laid in heaps, and
the wood seems entirely decomposed, which pro-
bably occasions the black and burnt hue of the
stones, like the black flocculent powder that we
have mentioned from the decomposed wood in the
temple at Absambul. None of these ruins have
ever been examined, though they rise to the height
of twenty or thirty feet above your head, and if
skilfully probed, might be found to contain things
of the greatest interest. In this quarter was the
palace of King Solomon, and the house of the forest
of Lebanon. We should not expect to meet with
any statues or carved images in Jerusalem. This
is not the home of idolatry. Their worship had a
higher aim. And simple as the idea may appear,
it is the only country on earth where men kept
animals, and stocks and stones in their proper
place, and knew that it was a crime to exalt or
fashion them into an image of their Invisible Crea-
tor, and fall down and worship them as gods. In
the ruins of Jerusalem a higher feeling takes pos-
JERUSALEM. QC)9
session of the mind than that which is occasioned
by contemplating the works of art; and the dis-
covery of the finest statues, so far from awakening
pleasurable sensations in the mind of the Christian,
would, like the ugly toad in Paradise, only mar the
holy enjoyment, and destroy that hallowed and un-
broken connexion which the heart washes to main-
tain inviolate between Israel's city and Israel's God.
In cities where the inhabitants knew no better than
to worship the Almighty in the gross medium of
material objects, the case is different: here the
mind is pitched for relishing the wrorks of art, and
human invention. It is their celebrity that throws
the mantle of inspiration over all the scene, and
makes the amateur hunt and hurry after them with
a phrenzied avidity. But the feeling is of a gross
and inferior description. It is that of a child to his
rattle, or his whistle, or his bread and butter, com-
pared with the thrilling and rapturous sensations
of a man of taste and genius towards the sublime
passages of Holy Writ, that purify, refine, and exalt
the mind, and bring the soul in contact with its
God.
Between Mount Zion and the Porta Judiciale the
distance is nearly half a mile, the whole of which
is covered with heaps of ruins hitherto unexplored.
This brings me near to the residence of my friend
the Capo Verde, and to the pride and glory of the
Turks, the Sakkarak or elegant mosque, which oc-
270 JERUSALEM.
cupies the site of Solomon's Temple, in the north-
east corner of the city.
My visits were frequent at the house of this
worthy Turk. Every morning by sun-rise, the in-
terpreter, Michael Cassr, a shrewd, strong-headed
Christian, who, on the demise of the apothecary,
whom he had served as a porter, set up for one
himself, came to call me to go and smoke a pipe,
and drink coffee with Omar Effendi. His wishes
were generally complied with. In the evening,
when dinner was scarcely over, the same hulky
mammoth would send in the servant, or poke in
his own turbaned head, to acquaint me that some
person was waiting to see me, or that I was re-
quested to visit some distressed person in the town.
As soon as it was possible I complied with the re-
quest, and having despatched the urgent business,
uniformly rendezvoused in the house of the Capo
Verde, where we passed the evenings. The anxiety
of this good man to render them agreeable was ex-
treme. On my entrance he always rose to receive
me, and set me down by his side, and requested
that I would sit with my legs out or up as I found
it most convenient. The servant always gave me
the longest pipe, and watched to fill it again before
it was smoked out. The first of the coffee, sher-
bet, lemonade, dates from Babylon, or sweetmeats
from Damascus, were uniformly presented to me,
and when he found that any of them pleased me
JERUSALEM, 271
particularly, a box of it not unfrequently accom-
panied me home. The company was varied as much
as possible, and a party of Santones, in the course
of the evening, commonly entertained us with sing-
ing the music of the principal mosque in Damascus,
which is all vocal, and extremely well executed.
Ballads of different descriptions were also sung
by two or three voices, detailing some of the ad-
ventures of Yousouff, and Leila, or Solomon, and
the genii subject to his control, or similar tales of
other great men famed in Eastern story.
The topics of conversation were frequently sug-
gested by the subjects of the music or the song,
which to me had more the air of fable than of truth.
Their monotony was occasionally broken by the
acute and witty remarks of Hassan of Lydda, who
acted as the great man's fool, and who was one of
his tenants. The Turks, though shrewd and sensi-
ble, are not an informed people. The golden age
of Haroun Al Raschid has never revived under the
Ottoman dynasty. I had many proofs of this in
my intercourse with the Turks in Jerusalem. Both
Omar Effendi and Taher Effendi were learned men
in their acceptation of the phrase. The latter of
whom knew nearly the whole of the Koran by me-
mory, and was constantly repeating sentences from
it. Yet they believed the most absurd traditions of
Solomon, devils, and genii. One of them mention-
ed Archimedes, who burnt the Roman vessels at
2?2 JERUSALEM.
Syracuse, under the name of Alexander the Little,
and said that he was one of the greatest conquerors
in the world, and stood next to Alexander the
Great.
The governor of the holy city occasionally graced
the party, and then the conversation took a wider
range. News from Constantinople, from Aleppo,
Bagdadt, Babylonia, Damascus, Acre, Egypt,
Mecca, and places of inferior note, were severally
detailed, according to the latest arrivals, for there
were frequently persons from each of these quar-
ters in company, and the sweetmeats which they
brought along with them were always presented.
Many of the travellers sojourned in the house of
the Capo Verde. The politics of the great Em-
peror of the North were also discussed, and the
progress of his vastly extended empire, which they
seemed both to admire and to fear. France and
England also had their share in the topics of the
evening, and the martial spirit of the latter was
highly extolled. They had heard of Waterloo,, and
its renowned commander; and the Cadi, who had
a volume of French maps, but who did not know
a word nor a letter of the language, once asked me
to point him out the place where the battle was
fought, after which he requested me to show him
England, and made a mark on the place with his
nail that he might know it again, and point it out
to others. But it was on the achievements of our
JERUSALEM. 273
naval commanders that they were the loudest and
the most emphatic in their praise; and Sir Sidney
Smith was always mentioned with a whistle, inti-
mating that there was none like him. During the
time that the Governor remained there was no
music, unless he proposed it; and he was always
received in a large low room off the court, where
we remained for the evening. Our usual meetings
were up stairs as at first.
The Turks are great talkers, and their constantly
meeting at each other's houses, or in some common
rendezvous, supplied the place of newspapers, and
circulated the little tittle tattle of the district in a
very agreeable manner. If it happened that a
person in the course of the day had omitted a
prayer, or had made a vow to perform an extra
round of devotion, he would do it in the room
during the evening, while others were conversing
beside him, and that, too, without attracting any
particular attention, although the greater part of
the prayer was pronounced in a loud whisper, and
"Allah houakbar," or "God most great," was
vociferated in a full voice, before they bowed their
heads to the ground as if to kiss it.
Their conversation, though grave and solemn,
is at the same time accompanied with a good deal
of cheerfulness, but nothing undignified or ob-
streperous, and I never heard them indelicate. I
speak of the higher classes, and such as were them.
vol. u, x
27* JERUSALEM,
selves men of family and education- They are as
fond of happy expressions and emphatic sentences
as many of our own people are of puns and pretty-
isms; and in these the witty Hassan excelled all
the party, though quite an uneducated clown, in-
capable of either reading or writing. There are
many things, he used to say, that money cannot give
us, and in which, even the kind aid of friendship
is unavailing: "The heart must bear its own sorrow,
and the body its own pain. No man by consenting
to have his eyes put out could save the eyes of
Omar Effendi. Every thing is from God, and with-
out God we can do nothing. God is all in all;
submit to God." This sentence is truly islamitie.
It is also Christian in the highest degree; but the
Christians make a different use of it, and neither
knowing, nor pretending to know what is the will
of God, till the deprecated calamity has arrived,
strain every nerve to avert it, and persist in their
efforts, while life and human ability remain leaving
the result to God, and desiring to be thankful.
But the Moslem, after a feeble endeavor, calls
out, "Allah kareem, Allah houakbar, Allah bia-
raff," and, paralysed in prayer, or stupid apathy,
neglects the exertions that might have saved him.
A sentence of Scripture conveyed to them by the
interpreter, who was equally ignorant of its origin
with themselves, would frequently call forth all
their praise, which was not diminished, although
JERUSALEM. 275
they were afterwards informed that it was taken
from the Christian book. They consider Jesus
Christ to have been a very great person, and call
him "Sidn 'Aisa," but will not allow that he was
God as well as man. The subject however was
never discussed, or even so much as broached for
discussion, by either party. The presence of an
interpreter is always an interruption, and the go-
verning power is afraid of committing itself; but
if it be allowable to deliver an opinion on such a
subject, I should say that Taher Effendi, with a
confidential person, would discuss many points of
faith with perfect freedom and coolness.
When the company had remained as long as was
agreeable, there was never any difficulty in getting
rid of them. Omar Effendi rose from his seat, and
called out, "fi haram," let me be private; and imme-
diately every person sprung to his feet, wished him
good night, and walked off, nowise offended at the
dismissal. It was the custom of the country, it was
civil, and- the good man's wish. Myself and the
interpreter were always requested to remain with
him, generally for the purpose of consulting about
his own health, or that of some of his wives. If
of the latter, as soon as the company retired, the
man-servant in attendance was ordered to send in
Om Yousoff, or Joseph's mother, the old woman
already mentioned, who was the nurse, confidant*
and apothecary of the family, and so named from
T 2
276 JERUSALEM.
the prevailing custom throughout the East, of the
parents laying aside their own names, and adopting
that of their child, and being very generally deno-
minated thereby, whatever might have been their
names before, as John's father, or John's mother;
Jacob's father, or Jacob's mother, and so forth,
according to the name of their son. As soon as
the old dame appeared, she was desired to walk in
the invalid wife, or wives; and, having retired for
a little, returned with them at her back; two of
them always came together, although only one was
complaining, and were always wrapt up in their
loose white robes, which covered them from head
to foot, and which were held by the hand under
the chin, so as completely to hide the face. This
is the veil commonly worn in Palestine. At first,
they came creeping in with a slow and hesitating
step, and stood without the railing that separates
the place of distinction from the place of attend-
ance, till invited by their lord and master to ap-
proach, when they advanced within the railing,
seemingly with increasing timidity, and took their
seats on the lowest part of the couch in the hum-
blest and softest manner, as if their pulse durst
not beat, or their heart's blood circulate, for awe
and fearful respect. What a horrible degradation!
how different from merry England. It is like wit-
nessing our divinities trampled in the dust to be-
hold thus in low submission the beings whom we
JERUSALEM. 277
are proud to honor and attend. Attention held
them mute, till addressed from the corner, which,
I am happy to add, was always done in the kindest
and most feeling manner, at the same time betray-
ing an embarrassment, indicating that their master
had not been accustomed to talk with them in the
presence of strangers, and that he shared not a
little in their own confusion. Their replies were
generally uttered in a low faint tone of voice,
which being scarcely audible at the distance they
had taken, they were desired to move farther up
the couch, when they advanced, and planted them-
selves opposite to the interpreter, at a good speak-
ing distance. Encouraged by this promotion, they
moved their hands lower down on the veil, and
proceeded to tell their complaints in more confident
tones. When it was necessary to examine their
pulse, they wralked over, and shocked me by kneel-
ing at my feet. Sometimes, however, they were
anticipated, a liberty which usually occasioned a
laugh; but which I never knew to give offence.
Having surmounted the nervousness of the first
introduction, the ladies felt pretty much at their
ease, and joined in the conversation, during which,
the tightness of the veil became relaxed, and the
countenance coming into view, discovered less con-
fusion than their manner seemed to indicate. But
it was in the morning consultations when the female
ranks were reinforced sometimes to triple, or qua-
278 JERUSALEM.
druple the number of those in the evening, that
both their aspect and eloquence shone most conspi-
cuously. At the morning fi haram of Omar Effendi,
I have frequently seen half a dozen of long-bearded
Turks walk out, and as many white-robed dames
walk in. The ceremony of entrance was always
the same, and the veil was always held tight over
the chin, till they began severally to make known
their complaints, when it was gradually relaxed
or entirely removed from the face, as it became
necessary to examine the eyes, ears, neck, or head
of the patient, to which neither husband nor wife
ever offered the least objection; differing in this
from the senseless dowdies of Egypt, many of
whom, though almost blind from ophthalmia,
would not, till after the greatest entreaty, suffer
their eyes to be looked at. The veil once with-
drawn, there was no particular anxiety to replace
it; and the tongue once untied, there were no bounds
to its motion. Each assisting the other to detail
the symptoms of her malady, when all were pa-
tients, produced such a confusion, that both the
interpreter and myself were often at a loss to know
whose complaint we were hearing. I was surprized
to hear many of them ascribe their complaints to
fatigue, which, I was informed, arose from their
employment in the kitchen. Omar Effendi keeps
a sort of open table for the holy travellers of his
religion from all parts of the country; and some-
JERUSALEM. ^79
times not fewer than 80 of the holy brotherhood
dine in his house in a day, all the in-door prepara-
tions for which are managed by his ladies, and
chiefly by those who, though still young women,
were placed on the retired list of old wives. When
the females of superior rank had withdrawn, they
were succeeded by those of a lower order, servants
or dependents of the family both in town and coun-
try, who walked in without veils, and for whom I
prescribed on the outside of the railing, they not
being considered as entitled to a seat in the place
of distinction, which had been allotted to the wives
and concubines.
It is a prevailing sentiment all over the Levant,
that the Turkish ladies surpass the Greek in the
envied possession of beauty; but it is certainly not
correct, if I may be alknved to offer an opinion
from the specimens of both who have fallen under
my observation. The complexion of the former is
generally a light auburn, with eyes of the same
lovely hue. The cheeks are unusually florid, and
the face rather round than long; but they are by
no means gifted with that majestic and classical
beauty which fascinates in the countenance of the
Grecian female. If the apple of beauty is to be
wrested from its immemorial possessors, the far-
famed daughters of Achaia, or their worthy de-
scendants in Attica, the Fanar, or on the Bosphorus,
280 JERUSALEM*
it must be adjudged incontestably to the fairer
dames of this happy island.
I received frequent invitations to breakfast and
dine with the Capo Verde, which I accepted occa>-
sionally. The party usually consisted of his bro-
ther, his cousin Taher EfFendi, the interpreter, and
myself. The dinner was always served on a low
tray, and consisted of a number of dishes similar
to those which I have mentioned in the dinner given
us by Abougosh. There was one knife and fork,
and two spoons among us all > the former were for
general use, but were rarely employed at all, and
never when tearing could succeed. One of the
latter commonly fell to my share; the other was
wielded by the delicate hand of Taher Effendi,
who seemed to have no great objections to the tac-
tics of the European table; and though a strictly
bilious Mussulman, I dare say would have borne
the insult of a gold or silver fork to raise the morsel
to his mouth, with perfect magnanimity. We
never had any wine, or spirituous liquors of any
kind; water was the only beverage. The hands
were washed both before and after dinner: clean
hands being as necessary there as clean knives and
forks are here, they being used for the same pur-
pose. I have called it dinner, because it was so to
me; but it was their principal meal, or supper,
and is the social repast to which they invite each
JERUSALEM. 281
other, and is eaten about five o'clock in the after-
noon.
As soon as the dinner was over, pipes and coffee
were introduced; and we continued to smoke and
talk till the visiters of the evening arrived, which
was between seven and eight o'clock, or after eight,
the hour of prayer, and then we continued to smoke
and talk, and listen to the music for the rest of
the evening.
The objects of my walks or rides during the day
generally formed one of the topics of the after-
dinner conversation. On one of these occasions,
when sitting alone with Omar Effendi and the in-
terpreter, he inquired particularly what had been
my pursuits since he had seen me in the morning.
It happened that I had been employed for the
greater part of that day in walking about the Ha-
ram Schereeff; looking at the elegant mosque of
the Sakhara, which both Christians and Mussul-
mans still call occasionally by the name of Solo-
mon's temple. I had viewed it from the delightful
station on the Mount of Olives, from the nearer
approach of the governor's house, and had even
ventured so far as to look in at several of the ^ates,
all of which I mentioned to him, as well as my high
admiration of its elegance and beauty. He inquired
if I went in? I replied, "Oh, no!" To my great
surprise, he immediately demanded why? I re-
joined, that my guide informed me it was not
282 JERUSALEM.
permitted, and had even hinted that I had ventured
too far in approaching the gates so closely as I did.
He smiled, and said there was no harm in all I had
done, and demanded if I should like to see it.
Perceiving there was game in his heart, as his
countenance brightened and dilated, boding a dis-
position to grant me no common favor, I replied,
with considerable fervor, that I should prize it above
all things, that it ^ould lay me under the greatest
possible obligation. My ears were immediately
charmed with the delightful assurance, "well then
you shall see it." My thanks were unbounded for
his promise, and my secrecy pledged till I should
leave Jerusalem, when he left me at full liberty to
declare to all the world where I had been.
No particular day was fixed for my introduction
to the mosque, but I relied on the word of Omar
Effendi, and the time that suited him would of
course be convenient for me. Two or three days
passed without any notice being taken of it, and I
was becoming rather impatient for the consumma-
tion of my promised joy, not without some degree
of apprehension, that in the unbounded liberality
of his heart, Omar Effendi had led me to expect a
gratification which his more deliberate prudence
directed him to withhold. I determined however,
to let him take his own time and way, and conti-
nued my attentions to him as before, which were
always well received.
JERUSALEM. 283
One morning on bidding him adieu for a little,
he requested me and the interpreter to return again
at noon, without mentioning why. We readily con-
sented, and were punctual to our appointment.
But after smoking tobacco, drinking coffee, and
talking for an hour, we were allowed to retire with-
out ever knowing the reason for which we had been
invited; but were requested again in a pressing
manner to return in the evening, which was com-
plied with with equal readiness.
On entering the room in the twilight, we found
the Capo Verde sitting alone, expecting our arrival.
He rose to receive us in his usual hospitable man-
ner, candles were immediately lighted, and we were
treated with the common hospitable fare; the con-
versation went on as on former occasions. Before my
pipe however was half smoked out, a servant walked
in and delivered a message to Omar EfFendi, which
I did not distinctly hear; but his Excellence im-
mediately turned to me, and inquired if it would
be agreeable for me now to walk to the mosque?
The appeal was no sooner made than answered in
the affirmative with a burst of joy. He requested
the interpreter to accompany me, that every thing
might be thoroughly explained and understood;
but no entreaties could prevail upon Michael Cassr
to be of the party, although he had never been in
the mosque in his life, and was very anxious to see
it. However, as he was a resident in Jerusalem,
284 JERUSALEM.
it behoved him to act with circumspection in accept-
ing any favor at the hands of the rigid Osmanlees,
which might afterwards subject him to the terrible
accusation of having profaned, with his Christian
presence, the sealed and hallowed mansion of their
devotion, hitherto untrod by infidel feet or unpol-
luted by the gaze of a Nazarene. These motives
he afterwards explained to me, observing that the
present kindness and affability of their rulers wrould
no doubt continue during the short period of my
stay in the Holy City, but that when I was gone,
little of it would remain behind; and that so far
from sending for him three or four times a day, he
probably would not see the Capo Verde once in six
months. Conceiving that he had some solid reason
for his refusal, which he could not with propriety
disclose in presence of Omar EfFendi, I did not
urge him to accompany me; but laying aside my*"
white burnous, which I had hitherto worn after the
fashion of Cairo, put on a black abba of the Capo
Verde which was brought me by as black a Hercules,
of whom the interpreter remarked that there was
only one person in Jerusalem, and that too a fellow-
servant, who was piu diavolo che lui, more devil
than he. Thus equipt, my sooty conductor laid
hold of me by the left hand and out we sallied
on the sacrilegious errand accompanied by an-
other domestic.
Having cleared the premises of Omar Effendi,
JERUSALEM. 285
we passed by the house of Taher Effendi, and went
down towards the lower part of the town, where
we turned to the left and gradually ascended the
southern slope of Mount Moriah, passed the house
of the cadi, and entered by the gate into the Ha-
ram Schereeff. This is the name which is given to
the whole space enclosed about the mosque, and is
interpreted to mean the grand or noble retirement
for devotion. Proceeding forward a few yards, we
ascended a flight of steps, and got upon the stoa
sakhara, an elevated platform floored with mar-
ble, all round the mosque, from the door of which
we were now distant but a few paces. On our
arrival at the door, a gentle knock brought up
the sacristan, who, apprized of our arrival, was
waiting within to receive us. He demanded ra-
ther sternly, who we were,, and was answered by my
black conductor in tones not less consequential than
his own. The door immediately edged up to pre-
vent as much as possible the light from shining out,
and we squeezed ourselves in with a light and noise-
less step, although there was no person near who
could be alarmed by the loudest sound of our bare
feet upon the marble floor. The door was no sooner
shut than the sacristan, taking a couple of candles
in his hand, showed us all over the interior of this
building, pointing, in the pride of his heart, to the
elegant marble walls, the beautifully gilded ceiling,
the well at which the true worshippers drink and
286 JERUSALEM.
wash, with which we also blessed our palates and
moistened our beards, the paltry reading-desk with
the ancient Koran, the handsome columns, and the
green stone, with the wonderful nails. As soon as
we had completed this circuit, pulling a key from
his girdle, he unlocked the door of the railing
which separates the outer from the inner part of
the mosque, which, with an elevation of two or
three steps, led us into the sacred recess; where he
pointed out the patches of mosaic in the floor, the
round flat stone which the Prophet carried on his
arm in battle, directed us to introduce our hand
through the hole in the wooden box to feel the print
of the Prophet's foot, and through the posts of the
wooden rail to feel as well as to see the marks of
the angel Gabriel's fingers, into which I carefully
put my own, in the sacred stone that occupies the
centre of the mosque, and from which it derives
the name of Sakhara, or locked-up, and over which
is suspended a fine cloth of green and red satin;
but which was so covered with dust, that, but for
the information of my guide, I should not have
been able to tell the composing colors; and finally
he pointed to the door that leads into the small
cavern below, of which he had not the key. I
looked up to the interior of the dome; but there
being few lamps burning, the light was not suffici-
ent to show me any of its beauty, farther than a
general glance. The columns and curiosities were
JERUSALEM. 287
counted over again and again, the arches were
specially examined and enumerated, to be sure that
I had not missed nor forgotten any of them. Writ-
ing would have been an ungracious behaviour, cal-
culated to excite a thousand suspicions, that next
day would have gone to swell the general current
of the city gossip to the prejudice both of myself
and my friend. Having examined the adytum,
we once more touched the footstep of the Prophet,
and the finger prints of the angel Gabriel, and de-
scended the steps over which the door was imme-
diately secured. We viewed a second time the in-
terior of the building, drank of the well, counted
the remaining nails in the green stone, as well as
the empty holes; then having put a dollar into the
hands of the sacristan, which he grasped very hard
with his fist while he obstinately refused it with his
tongue, we hied us out at the gate of Paradise, bab
el Jenne, and, having made the exterior circuit of
the mosque, we passed by the judgment-seat of
Solomon, and descended from the stoa sakhara by
another flight of steps into the outer field of this
elegant enclosure. Here we put on our shoes, and
turning to the left, walked through the trees, that
were but thinly scattered, in the smooth grassy turf
to a house that adjoins the wall of the enclosure,
which in this place is also the wall of the city, and
which is said to contain the throne of king Solomon,
Here there was no admittance, and from this we
288 JERUSALEM.
proceeded to a stair which led up to the top of the;
wall, and sat down upon the stone oa which Ma-
homet is to sit at the day of Judgment, to judge
the reimbodied spirits assembled beneath him in
the valley of Jehoshaphat. Descending from this
seat of tremendous anticipation, which, if Mahomet
were made of flesh and blood, would be as trying to
him as his countenance would be alarming to the re-
imbodied spirits, we walked along the front of El
Aksa, the other mosque, which occupies the side, as
the Sakhara does the centre, of the enclosure, and
arrived at another fountain where we again washed
our beards and tasted the water. We had scarcely
advanced half a dozen of steps from the cooling
wave, when a voice from the window of the cadi's
house, as it appeared to me, called out, who goes
there? Had I been alone, and so challenged, I should
have been puzzled for an answer, for my tongue
would instantly have betrayed me, had I been in-
clined to counterfeit; but my sable attendant re-
plied, in a tone of surly and fearless confidence,
"Men, and bed-mn-d to you; what's your busi-
ness?" The call was from some of the santones of
the mosque, of which Omar Effendi is the head, and
hearing the well known voice of his myrmidon, the
challenger slunk into his cell, and we continued
our walk, without farther interruption, round to the
house of the governor, where, having made the cir-
cuit of the Haram Schereeff, we retraced our steps,
JERUSALEM. 289
passed out by the gate at which we entered, and
regained the house of Omar Effendi. Here I laid
aside the black abba, resumed my white burnous,
and walked into the room as gravely as if nothing
had happened. The noble Turk, participating in
my joy, received me with a smiling countenance,
sat me down by his side, and enquired if I had
seen the Sakhara? I rejoined in the affirmative,
and perceiving that the cause of my absence was
no secret to those who were now assembled around
him, I expressed my high admiration of its beauty,
and my sincere thanks to him for having permitted
me the envied gratification of seeing what had been
refused to the whole Christian world, during the
long period of its appropriation to the religion of the
Prophet, with the exception of De Hayes, the Am-
bassador of Lewis the thirteenth, who did not avail
himself of the permission,
He next proceeded to examine me in detail on
the different places that I had seen, and when his
queries were exhausted, I begged of him to explain
to me certain terms used by my guide, which I
did not fully comprehend, and afterwards to explain
to me the interior of the dome. He regretted
that the want of light had prevented me from seeing
it, and was proceeding to supply the defect by a
verbal description, when his brother who was sit-
ting on the other side of the divan, called out why
don't you go in during the day? The question elec-
VOL. II. u
290 JERUSALEM.
trifled me with joy; but considering it perhaps as a
little rash, I looked at the Capo Verde before making
any reply, when he speedily removed all doubt re-
specting his brother's prudence, by converting the
query into the imperative sanction of yes, go in dur-
ing the day; which was no sooner said than cordially
accepted, and his brother and cousin, each moving
his two fore-fingers in a parallel direction, said Sava,
Sava, we shall go in together as a token of friendship
and respect. Several other Turks did the same, for
in these countries the friendship of the principal per-
son always ensures the officious and often trouble-
some attention of his inferiors and dependants.
Next day, having previously provided myself
with a pencil, which a friend was kind enough to
lend me, I returned at noon to the house of the
Capo Verde, which was the time and place fixed for
our rendezvous, and immediately in company with
four well dressed, long bearded Turks repaired to
the Haram SchereefF, which we entered by the
same gate as I had done the evening before.
This sacred enclosure is the sunny spot of moslem
devotion. There is no sod like that which covers
the ample area of its contents, and no mosque at
all comparable to the Sakhara. Here the god of
day pours his choicest rays in a flood of light
that streaming all round upon the marble pave-
ment, mingles its softened tints in the verdant turf
and leaves nothing to compare with, or desire be-
JERUSALEM. 291
yond. It seems as if the glory of the temple still
dwelt upon the mosque, and the glory of Solomon
still covered the site of his temple. On the same
spot and under the same sun the memory conjures
up a thousand delightful remembrances, and con-
templates in review the glorious house, the dedi-
cation and prayer of the wisest of kings, spreading
forth his hands in the midst of his people; the
fire descending upon the burnt offering and the sa-
crifice, and the glory of the Lord filling the house
with the people bowing down with their faces to
the pavement, and worshipping and praising the
Lord for he is good, for his mercy endureth for
ever. The spectator forgets that it is a house of
foreign devotion, and feels as if in the radiant
opalescence of its light, an inviting ray was sent
forth to the heart of every returning Israelite to
this ancient centre of prayer. There is no re-
flected light like the light from the Sakhara; like
the glorious sun itself it stands alone in the world,
and there is but one spot on earth, where all things
typical were done away, that sinks a deeper interest
into the heart of the Christian.
The dimensions of this noble enclosure, as fur-
nished me by the cousin of Omar Effendi, are in
length six hundred and sixty peeks of Constanti-
nople, that is about one thousand four hundred and
eighty-nine feet, measuring from the arch of prayer
in El Aksa to the bab el Salam, or gate of peace,
u 2
292 JERUSALEM.
which is the name of the gate on the opposite end.
In breadth it is four hundred and forty peeks, or
nine hundred and ninety-five feet, measuring from
Allah dien to the gate Beseri on the west.
This spacious square is enclosed on the east and
on the south by the wall of the city; through
which there is only one gate and that leads into
El Aksa on the south. There were formerly two
gates on the east side, and the gate of Tobet bab
el Tobe both of which are now built up. The
other two sides of the square are in the town. The
west side is enclosed by a line of Turkish houses,
and is entered by five gates; the north side is en-
closed partly by a wall, and partly by Turkish houses,
and is entered by three gates. Having passed in by
either of these gates, the visiter enters what may be
called the outer court of the Haram Schereeff, which
is a fine smooth level space all round the Stoa Sak-
hara, falling with a gentle slope towards the east,
and covered with a thick sward of grass with orange,
olive, cypress, and other trees scattered over it in
different places, but no where forming a thicket.
In the sacred retirement of this charming spot,
the followers of the prophet delight to saunter or
repose as in the elysium of their devotion, and
arrayed in the gorgeous costume of the East, add
much to the beauty, the interest, and solemn still-
ness of the scene which they seem loath to quit
either in going to or coming from the house of
JERUSALEM. 293
prayer. In the midst of this court, but nearer to
the west and south sides, there is an elevated plat-
form, which is about four hundred and fifty feet
square, and is called Stoa Sakhara; some parts of
it are higher than others, as the ground on which
it is erected is more or less elevated, but it may be
said to average about twelve or fourteen feet above
the level of the grassy court. It is accessible on
all sides by a number of spacious stairs that appear
to have answered originally to exterior gates of
entrance into the Haram SchereefF. There are
three on the west side, two on the north, one on
the east side, and two on the south; that on the
east fronts the obstructed golden gate, it is more
worn than any of the rest and much in want of re-
pair: these stairs are all surmounted at the top with
lofty arches; some of them have four arches, so
that one stair leads to four entrances into the Stoa
Sakhara, and has a most magnificent and triumphal
appearance.
The platform, or Stoa Sakhara, is paved with fine
polished marble, chiefly white, with a shade of
blue, some of the stones look very old, are curi-
ously wrought and carved, and have evidently be-
longed to a former building. There are no trees
on the Stoa Sakhara, but tufts of grass in many
places, from the careless manner in which it is kept,
and which afford great relief to the eye from the
intense glare of light and heat, reflected from the
#94 JERUSALEM*
marble pavement. Round the edge of the Stoa
Sakhara, there are numbers of small houses; five
of which on the north side are occupied by san-
tones or religious ascetics; one on the south is for
the doctors of the law to hold their consultations
in; one on the west for containing the oil for
painting the brick and tile for the repair of the
Sakhara; the rest are places of private prayer for
the different sects of Mussulmans or believers,
which is the meaning of the word.
But the great beauty of the platform as well as of
the whole enclosure is the Sakhara itself, which is
nearly in the middle of the platform, and but a little
removed from the south side: it is a regular oc-
tagon of about sixty feet a side, and is entered by
four spacious doors. Bab el Garbi on the west;
bab el Shergy, or bab Nebbe Daoud, or gate of the
prophet David, on the east; bab el Kabla, or gate
towards which the Mussulman turns his face in
prayer, on the south; and bab el Jenne or gate of
the garden on the north. Each of these doors is
adorned with a porch, which projects from the line
of the building and rises considerably up on the
wall. The lower story of the Sakhara is faced
with marble, the blocksof whichareof different sizes,
and many of them evidently resting on the side or
narrowest surface. They look much older on a
close inspection than they do when viewed from
a distance, and their disintegration indicates a much
JERUSALEM. Wo
greater age than the stones of the houses, said to
have been built in the time of the mother of Con-
stantine the Great; and probably both they and the
aged stones in the flooring on the Stoa Sakhara,
formed part of the splendid temple that was de-
stroyed by the Romans. Each side of the Sakhara
is pannelled; the centre stone of one pannel is
square, of another it is octagonal, and thus they
alternate all round; the sides of each pannel run
down the angles of the building like a plain pilaster,
and give the appearance as if the whole side of
the edifice was set in a frame. The marble is
white with a considerable tinge of blue, and square
pieces of blue marble are introduced in different
places, so as to give the whole a pleasing effect;
there are no windows in the marble part or lower
story of the building. The upper story of this
elegant building is faced with small tiles of about
eight or nine inches square, they are painted of
different colors white, yellow, green, and blue, but
blue prevails throughout. They are covered with
sentences from the Koran, though of this last I
could not be certain on account of the height,
and my imperfect knowledge of the character;
there are seven well-proportioned windows on each
side, except where the porch rises high, and then
there are only six, one of which is generally built
up, so that only five are effective; the whole is
extremely light and beautiful, and from the mixture
290
JERUSALEM.
of the soft colors above and the pannelled and
blue and white tinge of the marble below, the eye
is more delighted with beholding it than any build-
ing I ever saw.
The admiration excited by the appearance of the
exterior was not diminished by a view of the inte-
rior. The arrangements of which are so managed
as to preserve throughout the octagonal form agree-
able to the ground plan of the building. The in-
side of the wall is white, without any ornament, and
I confess I am one who think ornaments misplaced
in a house of prayer, or any thing to distract the
mind when it comes there to hold converse with its
God. The floor is of gray marble, and was then
much covered with dust from some repairs that were
executing on the dome.
A little within the door of the bab el Jenne,
or west door, there is a flat polished slab of green
marble, which forms part of the floor. It is about
fourteen inches square, and was originally pierced
by eighteen nails, which would have kept their place,
but for the amazing chronometrical virtues with
which they were endowed. For such is their magical
temper, that they either hold or quit, according to
the times, and on the winding up of each great and
cardinal event, a nail has regularly been removed
to mark its completion; and so many of these signal
periods have already rolled by, each clenched by
an accompanying nail, that now only three and a
JERUSALEM* 297
half remain,, fourteen and a half having been dis-
placed in a supernatural manner. I was anxious to
learn what great event had drawn the first nail, the
second, the third, and so onward in succession;
whether they had taken their departure one at a
time, or if they had fled in divided portions, as
seems to be the fashion now, or whether the sly
disappearance of half a nail marked the silent course
of time in the accomplishment of half an event, as
that of a whole nail indicated the consummation of
one whole event. But on all these important points
I could learn nothing, neither could any one in-
form me when the last half nail took its flight, nor
when the other half was expected to follow. It is
an equally recondite matter, known only to the
wise in wonders, how the nails got into the stone,
as how they get out of it. Thus much, however,
the hierophants vouched safe to communicate, that
when all the nails had made their escape, that
all the events contained in the great map of time
will then have been unfolded, and that there will
then be an end of the world, or nothing but a
dull monotonous succession till the final consum-
mation of all things. My conductor also gravely
informed me, that underneath this stone Solomon,
the son of David, lies buried. All of which solemn
nonsense it was proper for me to hear without ap-
pearing to doubt either the information, or the
source from which it came.
£93 JERUSALEM.
The well at the inside of the bab el Garbed the
reading desk, and the ancient copy of the Koran,
have been already mentioned, to which I may add
the awkward narrow wooden staircase that leads
to the top of the building, and these comprise all
the objects worthy of notice that occur between
the wall and the first row of columns within the
Sakhara.
There are twenty-four columns in the first row,
placed parallel with the eight sides of the building,
three opposite to each side, so as still to preserve
the octagonal form. They are all of the same kind
of marble, but rather of a darker hue than that on
the exterior of the building. Eight of them are
large square plain columns, of no order of architec-
ture, and all placed opposite to the eight entering
angles of the edifice, and are indented on the inner
side, so that they furnish an acute termination to
the octagonal lines within. Between every two of
the square columns there are two round columns,
well proportioned and resting on a base. They
are from eighteen to twenty feet high, with a sort
of Corinthian capital. I did not remark that it was
gilt, which, had it been the case, I think I must
have done, having specially noted that the leaf is
raised, and turned over; but that I did not consi-
der it the true leaf of the Corinthian capital. A large
square plinth of marble extends from the top of the
one column to the other, and above it there is con-
JERUSALEM. Q(J9
structed a number of arches all round. The abut-
ments of two separate arches rest upon the plinths
above the capital of each column, so that there are
three arches opposed to each side of the building,
making twenty-four in the row of columns. The
arches are slightly pointed, and support the inner
end of the roof, or ceiling, which is of wood plas-
tered, and ornamented in compartments of the oc-
tagonal form, and highly gilt; the outer end of the
roof rests upon the walls of the building. The in-
tercolumnial space is vacant. Not so in the inner
circle of columns, to which we now proceed. They
are about two paces from the outer row, and are
only sixteen in number. There are four large square
columns, one opposed to each alternate angle of the
building, and three small round columns between
each of them. Their base rests upon an elevation of
the floor, and they are capitalled and surmounted
with arches, the same as in the outer row: this in-
ner row of columns supports the dome. The inter-
columnial space is occupied by a high iron railing,
so that all entrance to the holy stone, or centre of
the mosque, is completely shut up, except by one
door, which is open only at certain hours for the
purposes of devotion.
This central compartment is elevated about three
feet above the outer floor, and the ascent to it is by
a flight of four steps. On entering it along with the
Turks, we found there several rather shabbily dressed
300 JERUSALEM.
ill looking people engaged in their devotions. One
of them was a female, of a mean rustic appearance,
and so extremely stupid that she was praying with
her face to the west, which so provoked one of my
conductors, that he went up and roused her from
her knees, and having given her a hearty scolding,
turned her round, and made her pray with her face
to the south, which she very obediently did with-
out any demur. Within this row of columns the
floor is also paved with marble, and the blue and
white columns are so mixt, as in some places to
form a sort of mosaic. Proceeding on to the right
we came to a round flat stone of polished marble,
which is raised high, and attached to the side of
one of the square columns. This stone, I was in-
formed, the prophet carried on his arm in battle.
It is a ponderous and a very unlikely shield. It is
broken through the middle, probably from a blow
aimed at its master by an infidel hand. Opposite
to this, and on the end of the holy stone, which I
am about to describe, there is a high square wooden
box, with an opening on one side of it large enough
to admit the hand to feel the print of Mahomet's
foot, which he left there either when he prayed, or
when he flew up to heaven. I put in my hand
and touched it to stroke my face and beard, as I
saw the Mussulmans do. It is so completely co-
vered that it cannot be seen.
But that to which this temple owes both its name
JERUSALEM. SOI
and existence, is a large irregular oblong mass of
stone that occupies the centre of the Mosque. It
is a mass of compact limestone, the same as that of
the rock on which the city stands, and of the other
mountains about Jerusalem, and if I had not been
told that it is a separate stone, I should have ima-
gined it a part of the native rock that had been left
unremoved, when the other parts were levelled
down for the foundation of the building. It rises
highest towards the south-west corner, and falls
abruptly at the end where are the prints of the
prophet's foot. It is irregular on the upper sur-
face, the same as when it was broken from the
quarry. It is enclosed all round with a wooden
railing, about four feet high, and which in every
place is nearly in contact with the stone. I have
already mentioned that there is a large cover of
various colored satin suspended above it, and no-
thing can be held in greater veneration than the
Hadjr el Sakhara, or the locked up stone. Under
it there is an apartment dug in the solid rock, which
is entered by a stair that opens to the south-east.
But into this excavation I never was admitted, al-
though I was four times in the Mosque, and went
there twice with the express assurance that I should
be shown into it. However, when I arrived the
key was always wanting, and when the keeper of
it was sought for, he never could be found. They
assured me, however, that it was very small, and
302 JERUSALEM.
that it contained nothing but robes, and Ali Bey,
who having professed himself a Mussulman, visited
this excavation, says, that it is an irregular square
of about eighteen feet in circumference, and eight
feet high in the middle; and that in the bottom it
contains two marble tablets, one of which is called
the place of David, the other the place of Solomon;
and two niches, the one of which is called the place
of Abraham, the other the place of Gabriel; and,
lastly, a stone table, Makam el Hodar, which is
rendered by him the place of Elias; but the name
Hodar was always translated to me St. George, as
Maharab el Hodar, the Arch of St. George; and
though the Mussulmans frequently confound the
two, yet, I believe, they never give Elias the name
of Hodar.
However, this stone has other weighty pretensions
to the veneration of the Mahometans than the print
of the angel Gabriels's fingers or the prophet's foot;
for like the Palladium of ancient Troy, it fell from
heaven, and lighted on this very spot, at the time
that prophecy commenced in Jerusalem. Here the
ancient prophets sat, and prophesied, and prayed,
and as long as the spirit of vaticination continued
to visit the holy men in the holy city, the stone
remained quiet for their accommodation; but when
prophecy ceased, and the persecuted seers girt up
their loins and fled, the stone, out of sympathy,
wished to accompany them; but the angel Gabriel
JERUSALEM. 303
interposed his friendly aid, and, grasping the stone
with a mighty hand, arrested its flight, and nailed
it to its rocky bed till the arrival of Mahomet, who
horsed on the lightnings5 wing, flew thither from
Mecca, joined the society of 70,000 ministering
angels, and, having offered up his devotions to the
throne of God, fixt the stone immoveably in this
holy spot, around which the Kalif Omar erected
the present elegant structure.
Having satisfied ourselves with the interior, and
lower part of the Mosque, we ascended the narrow
and comfortless wooden stair to the top of it, and
in our ascent, had a full view of the immense
wooden beams that compose the ceiling. The roof
of the Mosque is covered with lead from the wall
to the dome. It slopes gently, so that we walked
along it with ease. The walls rise above it about,
seven feet, so that no part of the roof is visible from
the ground below. The wall of the dome is round,
and the sides of the perpendicular part of it are
faced up with blue, green, white and yellow painted
tiles, the same as the upper part of the building.
Blue is the prevailing color. It is divided into
alternate compartments of close, and reticulated
work j and is covered in the top with lead, the
same as the roof of the building. It was then
undergoing repair. The workmen were taking out
the old bricks, which were much decayed, and
introducing new ones, which were painted after a
304 JERUSALEM.
different pattern; but all of us thought that the
old work was better, and the patterns handsomer
than the new. The scaffolding erected for these
repairs so obstructed the admission of light into
the interior of the dome, that I never had a satis-
factory view of it. From what I saw, it exhi-
bited a faint, but elegant display of various colors,
and I was informed that it was excessively brilliant,
and was ornamented with different kinds of preci-
ous stones. The height of the dome is about
ninety feet, and the diameter about forty feet. From
the roof of the mosque there is a delightful view
of the city and scenery about Jerusalem, in the
contemplation of which we remained about an hour.
Leaving the Sakhara, we proceeded to the
Mosque el Aksa, the name given to the other house
of devotion, contained within this sacred enclosure;
and though a very fine, and elegant Mosque in the
interior, is greatly inferior to it, both in beauty
and sanctity. It is also called the Mosque of the
Women, because it contains a separate place,
assigned them for prayer, and Djamai Omar, or
Mosque of the Kalif Omar, who used to pray in
it. The place in which he performed his devotions
is still exhibited. This was anciently a church,
and in the Christian days of the Holy City, was
called the Church of the Presentation, meaning
thereby, of the infant Jesus; or of the purification,
meaning thereby, of the Virgin Mary. A narrow
JERUSALEM. 305
aisle on the right, off the body of the church, is
shown as the place where she presented her son in
the temple. The mosque is in the form of a long
square, and would answer very w^ell for a Christian
church at present, were it not for the superabun-
dance of columns in the interior, which assimilate
it more to an Egyptian temple.
The Mosque el Aksa, lies to the south of the
Sakhara, and close to the southern wall of the
enclosure, which is also the wall of the city. It is
nearly opposite to the Kob el Kebla, which is by
far the finest door of the Sakhara. Between the
two there is a beautiful fountain called the orange
fountain, from a clump of orange trees which
grow near it. It has seven arches in front, which
are slightly pointed j and three square abutments,
which support the front of the building, look like
so many square columns. These arches cover a
piazza, which affords an agreeable walk all along
the front of the building. The door of entrance
is in the centre, and opens into the middle aisle of
the mosque, which is remarkably clean, and spa-
cious, and covered with mats. The ceiling is
flat, and supported by three rows of columns on
each hand. The two middle rows are round, the
others are square, and all are surmounted by arches,
as in the Sakhara, and coarsely finished. Elegance
is, not the boast of this house of Moslem devotion.
Three large lamps suspended from the ceiling, with
VOL, II. x
306
JERUSALEM.
three burners in each, served to light it up during
the night. The apartment for the females is enclosed
on the left. At the farther end of the aisle, front-
ing the door, there is a large pulpit, which is
highly ornamented with pieces of variegated marble,
as if it had formed part of a Christian altar, and
adorned with two marble columns on each side, and
arched over the top like an arcade. Standing im-
mediately in front of this, we are directly under
the Kob el Aksa, or dome of El Aksa, which is sup-
ported by four large columns, surmounted by arches,
as in the Sakhara. The dome is painted of different
colors, and lighted by windows in the side. The
glass in these windows is also painted blue, yellow,
red, and green. The light admitted through such
a medium is softened and delightful, and calculated
to inspire sentiments suited to a place of worship.
To the right, near the pulpit, there is a small place
enclosed with a wooden rail, and covered with
green cushions for the Cadi. Near to this there is
a separate place for the singers. Up a narrow stone
stair, I was shown a small room appropriated for
the devotions of the sultan; but the state of disre-
pair in which it then was, shews that the sublime
potentate, or his representative, seldom visits this
place of prayer. On the left, in a direct line from
the pulpit, there is a long uncomfortable vault, in
which the Kalif Omar used to pray. Between this
and the apartment built off for the females, in a recess
JERUSALEM. 307
formed by building up the space between two of
the columns, there is a niche in the wall, at which
the Mussulmans pray, called the door of mercy.
We have now completed the examination of the
interior of the Mosque El Aksa, and here my
guide kneeling down, performed his devotions,
having requested me to stand beside him till he
had done, when we immediately sallied out of the
mosque, and entered into some of the contiguous
small houses, where the workmen were engaged in
mixing the lime, and preparing the plaster for the
repair of the Sakhara. Though I was escorted by
some of the principal Turks of the Holy City, yet
I easily perceived their anxiety that I should be
as little observed as possible ; and although some of
the Moslems, whom I met, condescended to salute
me in a friendly manner, yet others looked perfectly
savage, and one of them even remonstrated w-ith
the chamberlain of Omar Effendi for bringing me
there.
Here I would beg leave to remark, that if this
mosque, El Aksa, be built on the site of Solomon's
temple, the Sakhara cannot occupy the site of the
Holy of Holies; for the two are at a greater dis-
tance from each other than the whole length of
Solomon's temple, which was only ninety feet. The
door of mercy probably occupies the place of the
mercy seat, and the two large granite columns were
probably exhibited in the days of its Romanism,
x 2
♦308 JERUSALEM.
as the successors of the two brazen pillars, Jachin
and Boaz, that ornamented the porch of the tem-
ple of Solomon.
From El Aksa, we proceeded to the south-east
corner of the enclosure, where the keeper having
unlocked the door, we descended a flight of steps
and came into a small square chamber, which is
called the grotto of Sidn Aisa or grotto of the
Lord Je$us. It contains the Sereer Sidn Aisa, the
bed or tomb of the Lord Jesus, which is in the
form of a sarcophagus, with a small round pillar
erected on each angle, supporting a canopy above.
The pillars are jagged or fretted both at top and
bottom, and plain and polished in the middle. The
bed or sarcophagus is of the common compact
limestone of the country. It could never have
been a bath, for it is not capacious enough to hold
an adequate depth of water, and it is cut and formed
exactly in. the same manner as the excavations for
the reception of the bodies in what are called the
tombs of the kings of Juda. The columns are of
variegated marble, and are apparently of Roman
workmanship, and seem to have been erected with
the view of supporting a curtain to be drawn or
withdrawn according as the object which it covered
was to be seen or concealed. Why is this square
chamber called the grotto of the Lord Jesus? and
why is this stone trough, called the bed of the
Lord Jesus? These queries shall afterwards be eon-
JERUSALEM. 309
sidered. In the same chamber there were three
other stone troughs of a similar description, but
without any columns, which were severally deno-
minated the beds of Mary, of John, and of Zac-
charias; the mother, the forerunner, and the fa-
ther of the forerunner of our Lord Jesus Christ;
the three persons most particularly indicated in the
New Testament, as connected with the appearance
of the Messiah. And, when we consider that Je-
rusalem, in the early ages of Christianity, was en-
tirely a Christian city, perhaps we do not go too
far in stating that this grotto and these stone troughs
were once exhibited by the religious hierophants, as
the Holy Sepulchre, and theothers as the tombs of the
different individuals whose names they bear. When
the Saracens captured the city, they took the Chris-
tian church of the purification, the grotto of Sidn
Aisa, retained the tombs that they found within, and
called them by the names which the Christians had
given them, as the Turks still continue to do.
From the grotto of Sidn Aisa, we descended
another flight of steps^ and came into what is called
the Berca Solymon, or a subterranean colonnade,
raised to support the lower edge of the enclosure
called Haram SehereefFanda small superincumbent
building, appropriated for the devotion of the sect
Hambali. The tops of the columns are surmounted
by arches, the same as those in the Sakhara and
El Aksa. The columns are about four feet and a
810 JERUSALEM.
half square, and consist of three stones each; each
stone is about five feet long, and is bevelled at the
eiids and at the corners, so that the joinings form
a small niche, like revealed rustic. The stones
have been remarkably well cut, but they are much
more disintegrated than they are likely to have
been in the station that they at present occupy,
during the period of eleven hundred years; and
have a much older appearance than the arches
which they support. The style of cutting and join-
ing the stones, that we see in these columns, is quite
different from any other architecture in Jerusalem,
and from any thing that I have ever seen, except in
the foundation stones in the temple or castle at
Balbec. The Turks ascribe the erection of these
columns to Solomon, the son of David. We are
informed that the inner court of Solomon's temple
was built of three rows of hewn stone, and a row
of cedar beams; and the order from Cyrus for
rebuilding the temple, mentions three rows of great
stones, and a row of new timber. It is not impro-
bable that these columns are constructed of the
stones above mentioned; the workmanship in my
opinion is decidedly Jewish.
Some of the arches appear to have been giving
way, and are built up by a solid wall passing be-
tween the two columns. The different arches are
characterised by different names. One is called
the arch of Aaron, the brother of Moses j another
JERUSALEM. 811
is called the arch of the Apostles; and a third, is
called the arch of St. George. There was a small
and apparently accidental opening, as if the earth
had dropt through from the haram or outer court
of the enclosure. This they called the private en-
trance of Solomon the son of David. And between
the first row of columns and the wall on the right,
whence I entered the colonnade, they showed me a
large slab that covers a stone chest, in which Solo-
mon had shut up the devil, because he had neglected
his orders to bring him his favorite queen Belgeess,
at a time when he was very impatient to see her.
I have told the tale as it was told to me, and as it
is believed by every Mussulman in Jerusalem. The
Konln sets forth, that sundry devils wrere under the
command of Solomon, to dive to get him pearls, and
do him other works besides. The whole of this
subterraneous colonnade is called Habsul, or the
hidden; and, when we compare the accumulation
of rubbish in other parts of the town with the
depth of the rubbish in the Haram Schereeff, I
think there is little doubt that the columns once
were above ground. They rest upon rock or large
coarse stones regularly laid. The Turks informed
me that there are three thousand such columns
under El Aksa. I saw the stair that leads down
to them, but we did not enter, the key could not
be found, as was the case when we wanted to enter
the grotto under the Sakhara.
31S JERUSALEM.
Leaving the colonnade, we ascended the steps,
passed through the grotto of Sidn Aisa, regained
the open air, and proceeded along the side of the
eastern wall of the Haram SchereefF to the house
which contains the Coursi Solymon, or throne of
Solomon; but still there was no key, and in look-
ing at the window, I merely saw the five brass
knobs that adorned the arms and top of the chair,
looking through the curtain of green cloth with
which it was covered. As we passed along to it
from the subterraneous colonnade above mentioned,
we saw, in two places where the ground had been
turned up, several fragments of marble columns,
and wherever the sward was broken, the ground
below exhibited a conglomeration of rubbish of
former buildings that had anciently adorned this
sacred enclosure, now levelled and smoothed over
for its present use.
There are four sects anjongthe Mussulmans who
are accounted orthodox. The first, and at present
the most respected, is that of the Hanifites, so
named from Father Hanifah, its founder, who was
born at Coufah, on the Euphrates, in the eightieth
of the Hedjra, and died in prison at Bagdadt in the
seventieth year of his age. The Turks and Taf-
tars, the sultans, kings, and judges are of this sect.
The last mentioned hold public discussion, deliver
public orations, and are called the followers of rea-
son. If a person be liable to any sudden discharge
JERUSALEM. 313
of blood, and it should surprise him in the time of
his devotions, by the laws of the sect, he must not
wait to finish them, but must immediately retire
and wash; and when the hemorrhage is stopt, may
return and conclude his prayers. If, however, he
change his sect, which he may do to that of Shafei,
he may continue his devotions notwithstanding the
presence of his infirmity. Military or naval com-
manders are never of this sect. The elegant mosque
of the Sakhara belongs to it, and is exclusively their
appropriate place of prayer, though those of other
sects occasionally frequent it.
The second orthodox sect of Mussulmans is that
of Malek, who was born in Medina about the
ninetieth year of the Hedjra, and died there in the
one hundred and seventy-eighth year of the same
epoch. He is chiefly followed in Egypt, Barbary,
and other parts of Africa. They have a place of
prayer in the south-west corner of the Haram
Schereeff.
The third orthodox sect is that of Shafei, who was
born at Gaza, or Askelon, in the one hundred and
fiftieth year of the Hedjra, educated at Mecca, and
died in Egypt in the two hundred and fourth year
of the same epoch. The members of this sect say
their prayers in El Aksa.
The fourth orthodox sect is that of Hanbal, who
was born in the one hundred and sixty-fourth year
of the Hedjra, and died at Bagdadt in the year
314 JERUSALEM,
two hundred and forty-one of the same epoch. Tfra?
place of prayer belonging to this sect is in the north-
east corner of the Haram Schereeff 5 but there is
none of them in Jerusalem at present. They are
chiefly confined to Mecca, though some of them
are still to be found in Nablous and Damascus.
Notwithstanding that each of these sects has a
separate place of prayer assigned to it within these
holy precincts; yet on Fridays, which is the Mus-
sulmans Sabbath, they all pray together in El Aska,
and, in the times of their festivals, all pray on the
platform, or Stoa Sakhara. I do not exactly know
the particular points in which these four sects differ
from each other. All are understood to be equally
orthodox expounders of the Koran; and I believe
the principal differences consist in the degrees of
attention that each thinks it necessary to bestow on
his person previous to engaging in the ceremonies
of his religion.
Before quitting the presence of this elegant mosque
of the Sakhara, I beg leave to remark, that though
the Moslems in their creed be decidedly mono-
theists, and Allah Wachet, or the Unity of Deity,
be constantly in their mouths, yet they cannot be
said to have a strictly spiritual devotion, and there
is a sapless sterility in their sacred book that can-
not feed the heart, or nourish a pure intellectual
worship of one invisible Almighty Being, every
where present, and every where to be worshipped
JERUSALEM. 315
with equal efficacy, if with equal fervor, sincerity,
and truth. They turn their faces to the south when
they pray, intimating, as if God were not as much
in the north, east, or west, as in the south; and a
black stone in the corner of the temple at Mecca,
and a grey stone in the centre of the temple in Je-
rusalem, both heaven-descended, and one of them
nearly half kissed away by the salutations of crowd-
ing votaries, have both been called in, as tangible
pledges of the Almighty's favor, to hallow the shrines,
and crowd them with worshippers. Pilgrimages to
Mecca, to Medina, to Jerusalem, and to Hebron,
are declared available for a similar purpose, and
ignorance of all things but their sacred book, which
they cannot get, but which they are freely permit-
ted to have if they can find it, is peculiarly patron-
ised and enjoined, as if the devotion of a dead un-
enlightened mind were the most acceptable service
to Him who is light and life. How happy they
who regard neither pilgrimages to Jerusalem, nor
Loretto, nor Mecca, nor Medina! but who wor-
ship in spirit and in truth an everywhere present
God, whom they see equally in every thing and
in every place, to whom they ascribe all merit un-
divided by bodily toil or mortification, or ought of
terrestrial or created existence.
Leaving the Haram Schereeff, we passed out by
the gate called Sette Mariam, which is close by the
gate of the city, named St. Stephen's Gate, and
31G
JERUSALEM.
close to which we have still the remains of the pool
Bethesda. Here we turned to the left, and pro-
ceeded along a narrow street, which, in a short
time, brought us to the Serai, or palace of the go-
vernor, that joins the wall of the enclosure, and is
said to occupy the site of the palace of Pontius
Pilate. It is an old looking irregular building,
large, of Roman architecture, and in bad repair.
Some Catholic travellers insist that this building is
of Saracenic architecture, and yet the Catholics of
Jerusalem pretend to show us in it the very room
in which Christ was confined before his trial, and
during the time that the judges were consulting
about the sentence. The palace contains several
good rooms, they are generally small, but well pro-
vided with carpets and divans, and from the south
side of it there is a most delightful view of the
Haram SchereefF, and the different objects con-
tained in the enclosure. Here I must for a while
take leave of my Turkish conductors, whose civili-
ties I shall never forget, although they never found
the key to admit me into the grotto of the Sak-
hara, nor to the throne of Solomon; but the men-
tion of Pilate, and Pilate's house, calls the heart to
other scenes. A greater than Solomon was here;
not be crowned with royalty, or seated on a throne
to receive the homage of his subjects, but to be
bound in fetters, and brought into the hall of judg-
ment, a panel at the bar to be spit upon, buffet-
JERUSALEM. 317
ted, and reviled; and though greater than Solo-
mon, yet as unlike to him, in condition and appear-
ance, as the ruined apartments, in which we are
told he was scourged and imprisoned, are to the
superb edifice that succeeded the temple of the
wisest of kings.
From this scene the Son of Mary was led like a
lamb to the slaughter. A little onward is the arch
of Ecce Homo, and the window through which,
arrayed in robes of mock royalty, he was pointed
at in derision, is still exhibited, and along the
Strada Dolorosa, or Mournful Way, which is the
name of the street between this and Mount Cal-
vary, the traveller is shown the place where Jesus
saluted his mother, where he fell with his cross •
on the left is a dry stone arch in the wall built up,
and the corner of the wall where he fell a second
time. Here the street turns to the left, and after
proceeding about a hundred yards, crosses over to
the right. Advancing a little way we are shown
the place where, staggering under his cross, he
stretched out his left hand to the wall to prevent
his falling j the stone received the impression,
which it retains to this day; the place, where in
compassion for his weakness, they laid hold of Si-
mon, who was coming from the country, and com-
pelled him to bear his cross; the house of the rich
man, and also that of Lazarus, where, moved by
the tears of his countrywomen, Jesus addressed
318 JERUSALEM.
them in the language of consolation: "Daughters
of Jerusalem weep not for me;" the house of Ve-
ronica (or Berenice), the Gate of Judgment, a co-
lumn of which is still standing buried in rubbish,
nearly up to the top. It is a Roman column, but
small, and neither it nor the stones about it, in the
least resemble what we should imagine to have been
employed in such a 'wall as formed the rampart of
the city of Jerusalem. It must have been also in
a very disadvantageous ground, as the rocky surface
rises high immediately behind it. Here we crossed
the road that leads to Damascus gate, and proceed-
ing up the ascent, came to an old looking part in
the wall, where Christ turned to his cross; jx little
farther on is Calvary, the scene of his crucifixion.
It is not high, nor is it a separate mountain, but
merely a bluff point on the lower slope of the
mountain base, as it approaches the edge of the
lower ground, on which the centre of the city
stands. To the north and west, the rock rises con-
siderably above it.
The church of the Holy Sepulchre stands on the
left, being built partly on the low ground, and
partly on the mountain. It is not however entered
from this street, but part of the interior of the
church may be seen through the windows in the
dome, to which I had access, through the house
of a venerable Turk. But by ascending to the
next street, and turning to the left, the person
JERUSALEM. 319
who wishes to enter the church of the Holy Sepul-
chre proceeds along it, and by winding round,
and constantly descending, he arrives at the large
open court in front of this sacred edifice, where
he will find every thing that his heart could wish
in the form of crucifixes, carved shells, beads, and
bracelets, saints, and sherbet, all exposed to sale,
and the venders thereof sitting beside them on the
ground. The court is bounded by the wings of
the convent that on the right contains Mount
Calvary, and several other places of sacred distinc-
tion; that on the left contains the Greek chapel,
and anciently the belfry. The door of the church
of the Holy Sepulchre faces the court, and, strictly
speaking, enters at the side of the building. It is
open only on certain days in the week, and on
certain hours in each day. To get it opened at
any other time it is necessary to have an order of
the two convents, the Greek and the Roman, and
the sanction of the governor of the city. When
open it is always guarded by Turks, who sit at the
side of the door, and exact a tribute from the
pilgrims who enter. Once admitted, the visiters
may remain all night, if they please. They may
come out at any time that suits them; but they
cannot get in after a certain hour. The crowd
pressing for admittance on certain days is immense,
and the Turks who keep the door treat them in the
roughest and most unfeeling manner, notwithstand-
320 JERUSALEM.
ing that they do pay for admission, squeezing
and beating them about like so many cattle. It
must, however, be allowed that they are often
extremely riotous, and conduct themselves in a
manner very unbecoming their character of pilgrims
approaching the sepulchre of their Lord and Savior,
where we should naturally expect all worldly strife
and contention to cease among the candidates for
the benefits of His redemption, and to be absorbed
in that devotional solemnity which the place is
calculated to inspire.
The mind is not withdrawn from the important
concerns of this hallowed spot by any tasteful
decorations, or dignified display of architecture, in
its plan or in its walls; but having cleared the
throng, the religion of the place is allowed to take
full possession of the soul, and the traveller feels
in every nerveless limb as if he were passing into
the presence of the great and immaculate Jehovah,
and summoned to give an account of the most
silent and secret thoughts of his heart.
Having passed within these sacred walls, the
attention is first directed to a large flat stone in
the floor a little within the door; it is surrounded
by a rail, and several lamps hang suspended over
it. The pilgrims approach it on their knees, touch,
and kiss it, and, prostrating themselves before it,
offer up their prayers in holy adoration. This is
the stone, on which the body of our Lord was
JERUSALEM. 321
washed and anointed, and prepared for the tomb.
Turning to the left and proceeding a little forward
we came into a round space immediately under the
dome, surrounded with sixteen large columns that
support the gallery above. In the centre of this
space stands the holy sepulchre; it is inclosed in
an oblong house, rounded at one end with small
arcades, or chapels, for prayer in the outside of it,
for the devotion of the Copts, the Abyssinians,
the Syrian Maronite, and other Christians, who are
not, like the Roman Catholics, the Greeks, and
Armenians, provided with large chapels in the body
of the church. At the other end it is squared off
and furnished with a platform in front, which is
ascended by a flight of steps, having a small parapet
wall of marble on each hand, and floored with the
same material. In the middle of this small plat-
form stands a block of polished marble about a foot
and a half square; on this stone sat the angel who
announced the blessed tidings of the resurrection
to Mary Magdalen and Joanna, and Mary the mother
of James: "He is not here, he is risen, as he said:
come, see the place where the Lord lay." Advanc-
ing a step and taking off our shoes and turbans at
the desire of the keeper, he drew aside the curtain,
and stepping down and bending almost to the
ground, we entered by a low narrow door into this
mansion of victory, where Christ triumphed over
the grave and disarmed Death of all his terrors,
VOL. II. y
322
JERUSALEM.
Here the mind looks on Him who, though he knew
no sin, yet entered the mansions of the dead to
redeem us from death, and the prayers of a grate-
ful heart ascend with a risen Savior to the presence
of God in heaven.
The tomb exhibited is a sarcophagus of white
marble, slightly tinged with blue \ it is six feet one
inch and three quarters long, three feet three
quarters of an inch broad, and two feet one inch
and a quarter deep, measured on the outside. It
is but indifferently polished, and seems as if it had
at one time been exposed to the pelting of the
storm and the changes of the season, by which it
has been considerably disintegrated: it is without
any ornament, and is made in the fashion of a
Greek sarcophagus, and not like the ancient tombs
of the Jews which we see cut in the rock for the
reception of the dead, nor like those stone troughs,
or sarcophagi, which I have already mentioned,
were called to me the beds of the Lord Jesus, of
Mary, of John and Zacharias. There are seven
silver lamps constantly burning over it, the gifts
of different potentates, to illuminate this scene of
hope and joy. The sarcophagus occupies about
one half of the sepulchral chamber, and extends
from one end of it to the other. A space about
three feet width in front of it is all that remains
for the reception of visiters, so that not above three
or four can be conveniently admitted at a time.
JERUSALEM. 323
A father guardian of the Greek or Roman con-
vent is always present, most frequently the former,
who, in this instance, makes gain of godliness by
selling the devout pilgrims a sight of the tomb for
money; a most scandalous traffic, and carried on at
the very door of the sepulchre, whereonce inviting
angles sat, and where admission should be as free
to the professors of our faith, as the voice of the
gospel is to all mankind. If money must be col-
lected for the expenses of the house, let it be levied
in other places, and let the humble worshipper visit
the tomb of his Savior indulging all the devotion
of his heart, undisturbed by the surly jog of a
porter demanding his fare like the keeper of a
turnpike-gate, or the exhibiter of a puppet-show.
The hierophant himself who stands before the tomb,
and whose countenance, like the angels around
the throne, we should expect to beam with grace
and joy, and meekness and love, inviting all to ap-
proach and pour out the devotion of their hearts
over this hallowed grave, exhibited the most dis-
gusting contrast in a greasy rotundity of frame,
and a pursed up aspect of pride, full of war and
contention, as if he were to fight with wild beasts,
and maintain hostility with all around him, clearly
evincing that whatever good effects the sight of
this glorious sepulchre may produce on the mind
of the far travelled pilgrim, it had completely
failed to touch the heart of him who stood in daily
y 2
324* JERUSALEM.
watch over the scene that beheld the first-born
from the dead, spring to heavenly life, which death*
nor hell, nor the persecuting rage of man, had
power to take away. That breath which the Sa-
vior first drew in Bethlehem must be stopt, and
the son of Mary must enter the mansions of the
dead; but the life with which he sprung from the
tomb is eternal, and the Son of God triumphs over
the grave. The vigilance of the Roman guard
could not intercept the returning spirit, nor the
bands of the tomb confine the spiritual body.
Leaving this hallowed spot, the scene of many
prayers, and tears of the most poignant sorrow, and
the most unbounded exultation, we were led by
our conductor to the place where Christ appeared
to Mary Magdalen, and near it to the chapel of
Apparition where he appeared to the blessed Virgin,
then to the Greek chapel which exactly faces the
holy sepulchre. In the centre of this chapel the
Greeks have set up a globe, and they say that this
is the centre of the earth; thus transferring the
absurd notions of their ancient priests about the
navel of the earth, from Delphi to Jerusalem, as if
all parts on the surface of the circle were not
equally entitled to the same appellation, being
equally near to the centre with this. After this
we entered a dark narrow staircase, and having
ascended about twenty steps, reached Mount Cal-
vary. This is the centre, the grand magnet of
JERUSALEM, 325
the Christian world; from this proceed life and
salvation; thither all hearts tend, and all eyes are
directed; here kings and queens cast down their
crowns, and great men and women part with their
ornaments, at the foot of the cross all are on a
level, equally needy and equally welcome. The
Christian's chiefest glory and joy is the portion
that he has in the Sacrifice on Calvary, and he is
poor, indeed, though he knows the works of Ta-
citus and Laplace, if he know not the bible and the
gospel of Christ.
On Calvary we were shown the place where
Christ was nailed to the cross, where the cross was
erected, and the hole into which the end of it was
fixed, and the rent in the rock; all of which are
-covered with marble, perforated in the proper
places, so that the ancient recipient of the cross
and the rent in the rock may be seen and touched
Close by a cross is erected on an elevated part of
the floor, and a wooden body stretched upon it in
an attitude of suffering
Descending from Mount Calvary we entered into
the chapel of St. Helena, and descended to the low
rocky vault in which the cross was found • in this
murky den the discovery of the cross is celebrated
in an appropriate mass every year on the 3d of
May; it is large enough to contain about thirty or
forty persons wedged in close array, and on that
occasion it is generally crowded to the door. This
year it happened that the day on which the festival
326 JERUSALEM.
was to be celebrated by the Romans, interfered with
that on which it was to be celebrated by the Greeks,
and we witnessed all the tug of war, the biting and
the scratching, the pommeling and the pelting, the
brickbats and clubs, the whimpering and the mew-
ling, of extatic, spawling, palpitating monks fight-
ing for their chapel like kites and crows for their
nests. When rogues come to reckoning, and thieves
fiffht about their den, let the thickest skin best 'bide
the blows. All are lost that miss. The Romans are
routed: " The Devil aids the Greeks, and they are
schismatics," said the panting superior, swooning
from a blow that might have cleft him in twain;
"and you Englishmen, you live in our convent, and
you see us beat, back and side, and you don't assist
us." "How can you expect it?" rejoined a gallant
Briton, " when if we fell in your cause, you would
not allow us a Christian burial." "Humph !" said
the Roman, and called for the apothecary to rub his
back with the balsam of Jerusalem, that had been
well basted with the blows of the cudgel, and un-
dulated with bumps that rose like tubercles on the
sides of a burning mountain; coffee, and Rosoglio
consoled him for his defeat, and he whined himself
asleep on that night as he had done on other nights
before. The Greeks spent the night in firing pistols,
and rejoicing, and were fined by the Cadi next
morning for disturbing his repose. Letters were
instantly sent to Rome and Constantinople, com-
plaining of the outrage, and calling for redress.
JERUSALEM. 327
The Turks have since revenged the Romans on
the Greeks, and their ravenous maw is not yet
glutted with the prey. May God deliver me and
my friends from the remorseless vengeance of an in-
triguing, puling, persecuting monk. Several other
places of minor consideration were shown to us,
which it is both uninteresting and unnecessary to
mention.
The fathers of the Roman Catholic convent
regularly go through the ceremony of the cruci-
fixion every year. A statue intended to represent
our Savior is nailed to the cross, the pilgrims are
all called upon in succession to advance and kiss
it. The cross is then erected and the image is
allowed to remain upon it for a given time; it is
then taken down from the cross, when the nails
are withdrawn from the hands and feet, kissed and
carefully laid by, to be sold to the deluded votaries,
and carried away to work miracles in a distant
quarter of the globe. The bloody image is then
wrapt in a linen cloth and carried down to the
stone of unction mentioned above, where it is an-
ointed, powdered, and spiced, and bound up and
laid in the tomb in which it remains till the morn-
ing of the third day. At each stage of the cere-
mony the fathers sing a hymn, preach a sermon,
or both, as may be deemed most suitable to the
occasion. The whole is said to be conducted with
becoming solemnity, and may produce an impres-
328
JERUSALEM*
sive effect upon the mind of those whom previous
education has accustomed to pray in solemn gravity
before statues and pictures, to obstetricate at the
wooden birth of a waxen babe whom they rock
in a cradle every Christmas, to crucify a piece of
wood every Easter, which they afterwards march
in solemn procession to inter, and who suffer a bull
from the pope to deprive them of the use of the
Holy Scriptures all the year round.
We were not in Jerusalem in time to witness the
celebration of this ceremony by the Latin church;
but were present at that performed by the Greeks,
on their anniversary of the resurrection. The rules
of this church do not permit the exhibition of gra-
ven images in their worship; but as some sensible
representation of the body of our Savior was
deemed necessary, either in the way of mockery
or devotion, one apparently lifeless was extended
on a board, and carried round the sepulchre, with
a mighty uproar; and boys and men going along-
side of it, striking fire from flint. The ceremony
began about eleven o'clock, the church was full in
every quarter. The conduct of many of the at-
tendants showed that they entered the holy place
in a becoming frame of mind; these sat retired in
the different chapels or recesses that surround the
sepulchre, and were chiefly females. The galleries
above were also crowded; many Turkish officers
were present. The governor was expected, but did
JERUSALEM. 32Q
not arrive. The mob occupied the body of the
house, and their behavior was disorderly in the ex-
treme; they hallooed and ran about, leaped on one
another's shoulder, revelling in the most unseemly
manner, more like bacchanals or unchained maniacs,
or a set of rioters at a fair, than celebraters of the
resurrection of the Blessed Jesus« Numbers of
Turkish soldiers were placed in the church to act
as constables, and did their best to preserve order
and decency, but notwithstanding all their efforts
in beating them with clubs, pulling and thrusting
them about like so many disorderly animals, the
noise and uproar continued till about twro o'clock,
when the grand quackery of the day began to be
played off* by the grand charlatan, the Greek bishop
of Jerusalem; for with every possible respect for
his sacred office, I cannot designate him or his ex-
hibition by any other names that will adequately
describe their character. The juggle attempted to
be played off*, is usually denominated the Grecian
fire, which it is pretended bursts from the holy
sepulchre in a supernatural manner, on the anni-
versary of this day, and at which all the pilgrims of
this persuasion light their lamps and torches, believ-
ing that they have thus received fire from heaven.
Before the ceremony commenced, the higher ec-
clesiastics entered the sepulchre, and in a little
time light was perceived at a small window in its
side. Thither.all the people crowded in wild clis-
380
JERUSALEM.
order, and lighted their torches at the flame, which,
from the place where we stood, the station of the
organ belonging to the Roman Catholic church,
was distinctly seen to issue from a burning body
placed on the lower part of the window, within the
tomb, and which, when some of the wicks were of
difficult accension^was raised up and pushed nearer;
at other times the flame was lowered down, and
was out of sight, intimating that Heaven required
to draw its breath and the fire to receive a fresh
supply of combustible materials; when again raised
up, it burnt with greater brilliancy, and on becom-
ing fainter, was again lowered down as before;
which showed that the priests meant to be very
artful, and were in reality very ignorant, for I am
sure there is not a pyrotechnist in London, who
would not have improved the exhibition. Thus,
however, they continued raising the light when
strong, and lowering it when it became faint, till all
the torches were lighted. No one, like the Druids
of old, under the pain of excommunication, dared
to light his torch at that of another; all behoved to
be regularly set on fire by the flame from the win-
dow, otherwise they were held in detestation all
the year round. As soon, however, as this illumi-
nation was accomplished, the bishops and priests
sallied forth from the tomb, and joined by the other
ecclesiastics who were waiting without in their ca-
nonicals, and with torches in their hands, all ar-
JERUSALEM. 331
ranged themselves according to the precedency of
their churches, Greeks, Armenians, Copts, Syrians,
&c. &c. and marched three times round the church,
bearing their flaming torches high above their heads.
The effect was particularly brilliant, more especially
when they passed down or came up from encom-
passing the Greek chapel. The torches, by this
time, were either burnt out or extinguished, and
here the ceremony closed. The priests laid aside
their robes and their torches, and the multitude
dispersed, more convinced of any thing, if they
reasoned at all, than of the celestial origin of the
fire by which their torches had been lighted up-
The heart beats softly when the conscience is clear,
and the Spirit beareth witness with our spirit that
we have done our duty: but how blank and uncon-
solitary must be the reflexions of a monk, when at
the close of this gulling exhibition, he withdraws
for solitary meditation, and memory sums up the
actions of the day, with the eye of God inspect-
ing the account! Need we be surprized, that mo-
notheistical Moslems deride the Christian devotion
insult them to their face, and call them dogs and
idolaters? Had I been summoned without any
premonition to witness such a ceremony, I should
have inquired, who is the God, when such are the
rites, and these are the priests? But knowing
what they profess, I now inquire by what autho-
rity doest thou these things? God is a spirit, and
332 JERUSALEM*
God is truth, and demands to be worshipped in
spirit and in truth. He maketh his ministers a
flame of fire, not that they should be mountebanks
and impostors, but that their devotions may ascend
in elemental purity to his throne, while their hearts,
like the burning bush in Horeb, remain on earth
unconsumed. What then must be his indignation
to be offered mockery instead of praise? And
what horrid profanation of his sanctuary is this,
knowingly, and deliberately to pass off error for
truth; to mingle the sinful inventions of man with
the gospel of Christ; and to call upon God to wit-
ness a lie, in the very spot where his Blessed Son
expired on the cross, to atone for the sins of our
fallen and guilty race I To be duped is a more ve-
nial error than to dupe; but both are detestable,
and more especially so in matters appertaining to
faith. Processions of boats, and statues, and gods,
may have been considered as necessary to support
the unhallowed trumpery of a pagan theology; but
to deform a religion founded in truth, and revealed
by God himself, with processions of saints, the
worship of human beings, and to exhibit as divine
miracles the paltry tricks of human hands, is an
insult to the Creator, a blasphemy of the deepest
die, and cannot be held in sufficient abhorrence or
reprobated in language adequately strong, to show
its deformity to our fellow-men, and to excite their
detestation at the insult offered to their God. For
JERUSALEM. 333
what purpose is all this done? That lying impostors
may pocket money and appear to miraculize for the
God of heaven. His people asked for bread, and
God sent it them; but instead of bread, their
priests present them with a stone. They were in
need of instruction, and God revealed to them his
will from heaven; but priests lock up the bible in
a chest, and, instead of instruction, present his peo-
ple with fables and flames of fire.
Having seen the exhibition of this vile and in-
famous delusion, the mind naturally inquires what
credit it can give to other statements from the same
quarter. Are the honoured spots within these wralls
really what the exhibiters declare them to be? Is
the Mount Calvary shown this day in Jerusalem,
really the Mount Calvary of Scripture, where
Christ expired upon the cross to redeem a guilty
race from the curse of God? Is the sepulchre there
exhibited as the sepulchre of Christ, really the
sepulchre of the rich and just man, Joseph of Ari-
mathea, in which the body of the Blessed Jesus
was laid? Or are they merely convenient spots,
fixt on at random, and exhibited to serve the inter-
ested views of a crafty priesthood? It is of no
consequence to the Christian religion whether they
are, or are not. The Christian is required to know
Jesus Christ, and him crucified, and to follow him;
but he is no where required to know Mount Cal-
vary, the place on which he suffered and died. He
is required to know, and believe in a risen Savior,
834 JERUSALEM.
but not to know the tomb in which his dead body
was deposited; and from which it rose triumphantly
to life. Place has nothing to do with the spiritual
duties of a Christian; he worships an everywhere
present God and Savior, to whom all places are
the same, equally the work of his Almighty hand,
and the care of his superintending providence.
It would, however, be gratifying to know if in
this most interesting scene, our affections were
taught to flow by the language of truth; and I
shall bestow a few moments consideration upon the
subject, having previously premised that the find-
ing of the cross, three hundred and twenty years
after the crucifixion had taken place; the impres-
sion of our Savior's hand on the stone of the wall,
and of his foot in the bed of the stream; the
altar on which Abraham was about to sacrifice his
son Isaac; the altar of Melchisedeck -> Adam's
head; Why not the serpent's head, and Adam's
heel? that was found in the rent of the rock, are
all downright fabrications, and are to be classed
with the milk of the Virgin Mary; the trout of
Santa Gloriosa, and the bottled-up hem! of Saint
Peter; and to be treated with the contempt and
contumely of all honest men. The same thing may
be said of the column at which our Savior was
scourged, and the places of his apparition to the
Virgin Mary, and Mary Magdalen. These, how-
ever, are matters of inferior consideration.
The stone, which now stands in the anti-room of
JERUSALEM.
335
the tomb, and which is set forth to be the great
stone that was rolled to the door of the sepulchre
by Joseph of Arimathea, and rolled away by the
Angel of the Lord, who was sitting upon it when
Mary Magdalen and the other Mary came to the
sepulchre on the morning of the resurrection, is, as
has been already stated, a square block of white
marble. Yet the holy fathers declare this to be
the identical stone, and it is exhibited as a costly
spectacle, and kissed and venerated accordingly.
When strictly questioned on the subject, however,
the guide informed us, that the true stone was
stolen by the Armenians, and it is exhibited by
them in a chapel that occupies the site of the pa-
lace of Caiaphas, on Mount Zion, but that the po-
lished block of marble served their purpose equally
well. The sepulchre itself is a marble sarcophagus,
of the same kind of marble with that of the Sak-
hara; but the Evangelists inform us that the sepul-
chre in which the body of Jesus was laid, was hewn
out in the rock, which is compact limestone, and
not marble. This, then, is not the sepulchre of
Christ; and we are astonished at the unblushing ef-
frontery of the men who say it is, and the credulity
of those who believe them: for any stone, wooden,
leaden, or iron coffin in the world is just as much
entitled to the appellation. And if the historians of
the sacred premises were to exercise the same de-
gree of candor with the guide above alluded to,
respecting the stone on which the Angel sat, we
336 JERUSALEM.
might probably learn that the stone trough called
the Sereer Sidn Aisa by the Turks, was the sarco-
phagus originally exhibited as the tomb of Christ;
and should the Greeks or Romans ever expel the
Mussulmans, and become masters of the Holy City,
we should not wonder if the present sarcophagus
were slyly smuggled away, and the other replaced
in its stead; or it might be reinstated with mighty
pomp, as Siroes restored the true cross to Jerusa-
lem, which his father Cosroes had carried away;
or as Bonaparte remanded to the church of Notre
Dame the true crown of thorns that had been made
at his command, and called the old original crown
preserved in the Royal Library during the stormy
period of the Revolution, and which he then exhi-
bited in a new gilt case, to gull and amuse the Pa-
risians, and divert their attention from his purposes
of despotism and aggrandisement. My Lady of
Loretto might, perhaps, deign to send a wax candle
to burn on the occasion in Jerusalem, as she did
one to shine upon the christening of the king of
Rome in Paris.
The walls of the sepulchral chamber itself are
of greenish marble, which gives the whole building
a sombre appearance. But it is pretended that this
exterior is only a pious casing to cover and protect
the rocky boundaries of the chamber, which were
allowed to remain when the surrounding space was
levelled down for the floor of the building. This
possibly may be the case, but there is no evidence
JERUSALEM. 337
that it is; and the report of the hierophant is so fre-
quently falsified in other instances, that it is diffi-
cult to give it our credence in this. Besides, we
should think it would be nearly as arduous a task
to prevent the sacrilegious hands of the devout pil-
grims from assailing the marble that faced the rocky
walls that enclosed the holy sepulchre, and carry-
ing it off in detached fragments to quicken the
pulse of their sluggish devotions, and those of their
friends, as to prevent them from purloining por-
tions of the rock itself, which certainly would not
be less easy to procure, and not a whit better
adapted for the service required. A bull from the
Pope, which might be obtained gratuitously, or an
order from the Patriarch, which is held to be equally
cheap, would have been quite sufficient to guard the
integrity of both.
It is also to be observed, that in other places
where casing with marble has been employed pro-
fessedly for the same purpose, a part of the original
rock has been left exposed to be kissed and hand-
led by the solemn votaries; thereby furnishing
ocular demonstration of their actually being rock
as they were represented to be. Why was not the
same expedient adopted here? A covering of re-
ticulated marble would have equally secured the
walls of the holy sepulchre, and, at the same time,
have permitted the eyes to see, and the fingers to
touch the rock itself, and send away the votaries
vol. II. z
338 JERUSALEM.
saturated in every pore with all the wonderful vir-
tues of the sacred contact. But what has become
of the rocky ceiling of the tomb, for neither does
it exist? Has that, too, been kissed and cabbaged
away to foreign parts? Or is the whole a solemn
hum of a villanous priesthood, vamped up to gull the
weak and the superstitious, to feed the knaves, and
to fill their coffers. It would be insulting the un-
derstanding of the public to probe any farther the
hollow pretensions of such a scandalous imposture.
Next to my God, in spiritual matters, I venerate
my clergyman and spiritual guide; but his con-
science must be robed in the snowy vestment of
truth, and his tongue must unfold the unsophisti-
cated religion of Jesus.
Neither the Apostles nor the early Christians ap-
pear to have had any regard to the holy sepulchre
whatever. For it is not once mentioned in the Acts
of the Apostles, or in any of the Epistles. The
Apostle Paul in all his visits to the Holy City, or in
all his meetings with the Christians, never once
names Calvary, or the sepulchre of Christ. The
minds of these holy men seem to have been solely
intent on the spread of the Gospel, in awakening
men to a sense of their sins, and turning them
from the wickedness of their ways to the belief and
the practice of the religion of Christ, and in all
their forcible appeals to the hearts and understand-
ings of their hearers, the birth, death, and resur-
JERUSALEM. 339
rection of Christ are constantly mentioned, but the
places where these glorious events occurred is never
once named. Having satisfied themselves that the
body of the Messiah did not remain in the tomb
after the third day, they ceased to frequent it, or
to seek the living among the dead.
Both the garden and the tomb probably remain-
ed in the possession of Joseph of Arimathea, and his
family after him, and though the recollection of the
great deposit with which it was intrusted, and the
wonderful manner in which the tomb gave up its
possessor, was probably, while the city stood, never
obliterated from the memory of the family, whose ex-
isting head, at the time of the crucifixion, was secretly
a disciple of the meek and lowly Jesus, yet there is no
satisfactory evidence that ever it was characterized
by any signal marks of distinction, till the reign of
the Emperor Hadrian, who, in his rage for perse-
cuting and annoying the Christians, is said to have
erected a statue of Venus on Mount Calvary, and
a statue of Jupiter Olympius on the site of the holy
sepulchre, out of solemn mockery to the majesty
of the Son of God. This was 104 years after the
crucifixion, and rests upon the authority of a writer
of the third century, whose statement needs con-
firmation. During that period Jerusalem had been
rased from the foundation, and every sod of earth
around its walls had been seized to form embank-
ments against the city. Josephus, in his elaborate
z 2
340 JERUSALEM.
and graphical account of the siege of Jerusalem by
Titus, says nothing of Calvary, or the sepulchre of
Christ; but states, that Titus, in advancing his
camp from Scopus, gave orders to the whole army
to level the distance as far as the wall of the city,
and that they threw down all the hedges and walls
which the inhabitants had made about their gar-
dens and groves of trees, and cut down all the fruit
trees that lay between them and the wall of the
city, and filled up all the hollow places and the
chasms, and demolished the rocky precipices with
iron instruments, and thereby made all the place
level from Scopus to Herod's monuments, which
adjoined to the pool called the Serpent's Pool. In
this general levelling probably both Mount Cal-
vary, which at best was but a kind of mountain
tubercle, and the holy sepulchre disappeared. After
this melancholy event, the capture of the city, both
Christians and Jews were dispersed into every quar-
ter of the globe. They soon afterwards returned,
and took up their abode among the ruins; but no
notice is taken of those places till the date above-
mentioned: which, however, if correct, is done in
such a manner as to countenance the belief that
places bearing the above names, whether deservedly
or not, were then generally known. Helena, the
mother of Constantine the Great, threw down the
statues which Hadrian had erected on the sites
of the sepulchre and the crucifixion, and erected a
JERUSALEM. 341
church in their stead, and a designing priesthood
dressed up and dramatised the enclosed space ac-
cording to their interested views. And there is
little doubt that the church of the holy sepulchre,
including what was then called the place of the
crucifixion on Mount Calvary, is on the same spot
with that built by the pious Helena. Whether that
was really Mount Calvary or not is another subject
for consideration. But there being no traces of the
holy sepulchre remaining, a very justifiable scep-
ticism may be entertained of the place exhibited
really being the spot of our Savior's burial and
resurrection, which must for ever remain, unless
the supporters of the contrary opinion, can show
why a detached sarcophagus of marble is exhibited,
instead of the real one, which was cut out in the
compact limestone rock. Was this always the case?
if so, the exhibition of the holy sepulchre has always
been an infamous delusion.
I have not seen any account of Jerusalem, or of
the holy sepulchre, before the Saracenic conquest,
nor do I know that there is any in existence, except
in the records of the Vatican; but I should like
extremely to know if the grotto mentioned above,
in the corner of the Haram Schereeff, and called the
grotto of Sidn Aisa, by the Turks, was ever exhi-
bited as the sepulchre of Christ? I cannot other-
wise account for the appellation, nor for the term
sereer by which the sarcophagus is designated, and
#42 JERUSALEM.
which is the same term that the Arabs apply to
that which has been called the tomb of Osiris, in
the isle of Philoe. The Arab word employed, is
not torbeh or kabber, a grave or a tomb, in
which the body decomposes, and returns to its
parent earth, but sereer, the bed on which our
Savior reposed in the state of the dead, and from
which he rose in glorious triumph over Death, and
the powers of darkness. The contiguity of the
tomb to Mount Calvary is another objection to its
being the sepulchre of Christ. For though we
are informed that the sepulchre was nigh at hand,
yet I think it a most unlikely circumstance that a
rich man should have his garden immediately in
the place of public execution, and that he should
dig his own sepulchre, in the very rock over which
condemned criminals were hanged and crucified.
In regard to the hole on the top of Mount Calvary,
in which the end of the cross was fixed, that may
or may not be what it is represented. A hole may
be cut in a rock at any time, and any use may be
assigned to it j but strange as it may seem, I even
think this a very unlikely thing to have served the
purpose for which it is reported to have been made:
it is both too small and too shallow.
In regard to what is exhibited as the rent in the
rock, it appeared to me to be no such thing, but
merely a small longitudinal excavation made with
instruments and human hands, to which the hie-
JERUSALEM. 343
repliants have chosen to give that name. The bot-
tom of it is perfectly visible, and does not end in
the least like a fissure, and if a marble slab were
removed from the floor on each side, I am con-
vinced we should see both ends of it as unlike to a
fissure as the bottom. That which they show
below as a continuation of the rent which was
made that Adam's skull might spring to light, and
be moistened with the blood of Jesus, is of the
same description, and has no doubt been formed in
the same manner, and for the purpose of support-
ing the same delusion. Though such is the situa-
tion of the church of the holy sepulchre, on the
edge of the rock, that by driving in a few wedges,
they might have made a rent any where. This
remark has no application to the truth of the mi-
racle that attested our Savior's crucifixion. Of
which I myself have not the shadow of a doubt;
but I do not think that in order to prove that such
a thing took place, it is at all necessary to show
the rents in the rocks that were then produced,
no more than I should think it necessary to produce
a drop of the wine that was made of the water, to
prove the truth of the miracle wrought at the mar-
riage in Cana of Galilee; or a drop of her milk to
prove that the Virgin Mary was a mother; or the
spine of St. Peter to prove that he never was at
Rome. Truth is beautiful above all things. And
a great church should be far above propagating or
344 JERUSALEM.
i
conniving at casuistry and imposture. Every man
is a member of the church of Christ, who receives
him as he is offered in the gospel, and hopes for
salvation through his atonement and intercession.
We have seen heathen temples dismantled, and the
secret recesses, in which their false prophets prac-
tised their devilish arts of delusion, exposed to
public ridicule and scorn: and were the Christian
church of the holy sepulchre uncovered, the same
lying spirit would speak from the floor, and tell a
tale of more scandalous imposture. Let him that
names the name of Christ, depart from iniquity. It
is abomination in the sight of God, that a religion
founded in truth, should be built up in falsehood
and error, and supported by ignorance and delusion,
Christianity needs not the ornament of a false attire.
It possesses an aptitude, a beauty, and a comeli-
ness that far surpass the spirit of man to improve,
and whoever attempts to add to it, we are assured
that God will add to him the plagues which are
written in the sacred volume. The holy sepulchre,
I believe, is not known, and never can be known,
I am disposed to entertain the same opinion respect*
ing Mount Calvary, and do not think that either of
the places, now exhibited as such, was without the
walls of the town, at the time of our Savior's
crucifixion.
The whole compass of Jerusalem, as stated by
Josephus, was thirty-three furlongs, or little more
JERUSALEM. 345
than four miles. This circuit inducted the whole of
the city, as it was in the time of David, with the
subsequent additions of the temple of Solomon,
and the still later appendage of the new town,
which, in the Hebrew tongue, was called Bezetha.
The temple of Solomon was built on Mount
Moriah, in the threshing-floor of Oman the Jebu-
site, and was without the walls of the town. It is
stated that Solomon built a wall on the east side,
that is, on the side of the brook Kedron; but in
other places, that the temple stood exposed.
Future ages, however, walled in the whole, and
flanked it with towers, at an enormous expense.
Before the time of David, Jerusalem consisted
of an upper and a lower city; the former stood on
Mount Zion, and seems to have been almost im-
pregnable ; the latter stood on a lower hill, called
Acra, and appears to have been easily captured by
the tribes of Judah and Benjamin, who, however,
were not able, for a long time, to dispossess the
Jebusites, but dwelt together along with them in
Jerusalem. The capture of the strong hold of Zion
was reserved for the victorious arms of the son of
Jesse, who expelled the Jebusites, and brought the
whole of Jerusalem in subjection to the children
of Israel. "And David, and all Israel, went up to
Jerusalem, which is Jebus, where the Jebusites
were, the inhabitants of the land: and the inhabit-
ants of Jebus said to David, thou shalt not come
3l<6 JERUSALEM,
hither; nevertheless, David took the castle of Zion,
which is the city of David. And David said, who-
soever smiteth the Jebusites first, shall be chief and
captain. So Joab the son of Zeruiah went first up,
and was chief. And David dwelt in the castle,
therefore they called it the city of David. And he
built the city round about, even from Millo round
about: and Joab repaired the rest of the city.
So David waxed greater and greater, for the Lord
of Hosts was with him." 1 Chron. xi. 4.
This event took place 1063 years before the
birth of Christ, and 585 years after the departure
of the children of Israel out of Egypt; and from
this time Jerusalem, which was formerly but the
chief town of a petty state, become the capital of
the united kingdom of Israel and Judah, and the
seat of David their king; and rose so high above
all other cities, that none can be named in compa-
rison with it. Zion is God's Holy Hill, and Jeru-
salem is the City of the Living God.
Mount Zion stands on the south side, and the
greater part of it is now without the wall of the city*
Passing out by Zion gate, or as it is more fre-
quently denominated the gate of David, the first
object that meets the eye of the traveller, is a long
dingy looking Turkish mosque, situated on the
middle of Mount Zion. It is called the mosque
of the prophet David, and is said to be built over
his tomb, which is still exhibited in the interior,
JERUSALEM. 347
and is held in the greatest possible veneration by
the Mussulmans. The Santones belonging to the
mosque in Mount Zion, are the most powerful in
Jerusalem. Part of this building was anciently
the" church of the Coenaculum, where our Savior
ate the last supper with his disciples; and I was
shown into an upper room in the front of the build-
ins which both the Santon and the Ciceroni affirmed
to be the identical room in which this memorable
event, to which the Christian world owes the in-
stitution of the Holy Sacrament of the Supper,
took place. I should probably have believed them,
had I not learnt from higher authority, that, 39
years thereafter, not only the walls, but every house
in Jerusalem, had been rased from its foundations,
and the ground plowed up by the Roman soldiers,
in order that they might discover the treasures
which they supposed the unfortunate Jews had hid
under their feet.
To the right of the mosque, and between it and
the gate of the city, there is a small Armenian
chapel built on the spot, where formerly stood the
palace of Caiaphas. It is remarkable for nothing
but that the stone which closed up the door of the
holy sepulchre, is built in an altar at the upper
end of it, and exposed in several places to be kissed
and caressed like other precious relics. It is an.
iliipolished block of compact limestone, the same
with the rock on which the city stands, and does.
348 JERUSALEM.
not, like the block of polished marble in present
use, carry in its face the refutation of its once hav-
ing served the office assigned to it, though I con-
fess there is almost as little probability that it ever
did.
A few paces to the west of the chapel, there is
a Christian burying-ground; and among the let-
tered tomb-stones are several inscribed in the lan-
guage of our own country. They record the names,
and cover the ashes of Englishmen, who are re-
ported to have met their deaths in a way not very
creditable to the Franciscan convent. A little to
the south of this is shown the place where the Vir-
gin Mary expired; and on the north side of the
gate is shown—what? The place where the cock
crew to Peter.
Such is the sum total of the information which
the traveller receives from his guide respecting the
topography of this interesting spot, Mount Zion.
At the time when I visited this sacred ground, one
part of it supported a crop of barley, another was
undergoing the labor of the plough, and the soil
turned up consisted of stone and lime mixt with
earth, such as is usually met with in the foundations
of ruined cities. It is nearly a mile in circumfer-
ence, is highest on the west side, and towards the
east falls down in broad terraces on the upper part
of the mountain, and narrow ones on the side, as
it slopes down towards the brook Kedron. Each
JERUSALEM. 349
terrace is divided from the one above it by a low
wall of dry stone, built of the ruins of this cele-
brated spot. The terraces near the bottom of the
hill are still used as gardens, and are watered from
the pool of Siloam. They belong chiefly to the
inhabitants of the small village of Siloa immediately
opposite. We have here another remarkable instance
of the special fulfilment of prophecy; "therefore
shall Zion for your sakes be plowed as a field, and
Jerusalem shall become heaps." Micah iii. 12.
Mount Zion is considerably higher than the
ground on the north on which the ancient city
stood, or that on the east leading on to the valley
of Jehoshaphat, but has very little relative height
above the ground on the south and on the west, and
must have owed its boasted strength principally to
a deep ravine, by which it is encompassed on the
east, south, and west, and the strong high walls
and towers by which it was enclosed and flanked
completely round. This ravine, or valley, as the
term has been rendered, though the word trench
or ditch would have conveyed a more correct idea
of its appearance, seems to have been formed by
art on the south and on the west, the surface of
the ground on each side being nearly of equal height,
though Mount Zion is certainly the highest, yet so
little so that it could not have derived much ad-
ditional strength from its elevation. The breadth
.of this ditch is stated by Strabo to be about 150
350 JERUSALEM.
feet, and its depth, or the height of Mount Zion
above the bottom of the ravine, to be about 60 feet.
The measurement, in both instances, is nearly cor-
rect, and furnishes one, among many proofs that
we derive from other sources, that the places now
called by these names are the same as those that
were anciently so denominated. The bottom of
this ravine is rock, covered with a thin sprinkling
of earth, and, in the winter season, is the natural
channel for conveying off the water that falls into it
from the higher ground; but, on .both sides, the
rock is cut perpendicularly down, and most pro-
bably it was the quarry from which the greater
part of the stones were taken for building the city.
The precipitous edge of the ravine is more covered
with earth on the side of Mount Zion than on the
other side, which is probably owing to the barba-
rous custom of rasing cities from their foundation,
and tumbling both earth and stone into the ditch
below. The loose stones have been all removed
from it for building the present city. This ravine
extends farther north than the present wall of the
city, and ends in a gradual slope of deep earth, so
as to countenance the opinion that it once extended
farther than it does now.
The greater number of travellers are of opinion,
that this western wall of the city did not extend
farther north than what is called the Castle of Da-
vid, or Castle of the Pisans, at Bethlehem-gate,
JERUSALEM. 851
where they say it turned in a northern direction,
passed to the south-east of the holy sepulchre,
leaving it, and what is now called Mount Calvary,
without the city, and proceeded in a line to the
gate of judgment, the ruins of which we have al-
ready noticed. Without excavation no person can
say that this was not the case; and perhaps, even
after excavation, it might be difficult to put a de-
cided negative or affirmative on the statement,
This direction of the wall would suit the opinion
of those who contend that the places shown as the
site of the crucifixion, interment, and resurrection,
of the blessed Jesus, are wrhat they are represented
to be; and this direction of the ancient wall of the
city appears to have been chalked out to meet and
support that opinion. I can only say, that I saw no
vestiges of such a wall remaining, and it would be
the most disadvantageous situation possible for a
wall of defence, for it must have been drawn alono*
the low ground almost in immediate contact with
high ground that would command and overlook it,
though it were raised to the height of twenty or
30 feet, or, in some places, 40 feet. Besides, it
would not make Jerusalem what it is called by the
Psalmist, a compact city; but a long, narrow strip,
slightly fortified by nature on the east, which does
not correspond with the general description that
it was strongly fortified by nature on all sides but
the north. There is another circumstance, that on
352 JERUSALEM.
the north of Bethlehem-gate there is a large cistern
cut in the rock which, as legends tell, is the place
where David saw the bathing Bethsheba, and which
was probably within the ancient, as it is within the
walls of the present town. Moreover, to the north
of this, and to the north of the northern wall of
the present town there is another cistern cut in
the rock, and half filled up with earth, and which,
I think, was also within the walls of the ancient
town; and, in my opinion, the western wall of the
city stretched along the edge of the ravine as far
as it continues, and then passed over to the brook
Kedron. The city being thus encompassed on the
west and on the south by the ravine, on the east
by the brook Kedron, and on the north, as is stated
by Josephus, it had no protection whatever, but from
the wall by which it was enclosed, and which we are
assured, by the same authority, was almost im-
pugnable, The fortifications were begun by Herod
Agrippa, and, after his death, the Jews purchased
from the emperor, Claudius, permission to continue
them, and went on, and completed the walls, to
the height of 37 feet, and, in breadth 15 feet,
with great stones of 30 feet long, and 15 feet broad.
One part of Titus's army encampt on Scopus, a
hill at the distance of about seven stadia, or seven-
eighths of a mile from the city on the north, and
which derived its name from its elevated situation,
affording a fine view of Jerusalem. Between the
JERUSALEM".
hill Scopus, and the northern wall of the city, was
a sloping plain, which was covered with gardens,
monuments, and trees, which were all destroyed;
but the ground still answers to the description;
generally speaking, it is covered with a thin sprink-
ling of earth, and is under cultivation. Another
division of the Roman army, in which was the Tenth
legion which came through Jericho, encampt at the
distance of six furlongs from Jerusalem, at the
mount called the Mount of Olives, which lies over
against the city on the east side, and is parted from
it by a deep valley, which is named Cedron. This
ground also answers the description, and confirms
the opinion that the city of Jerusalem occupies
the same place now that it did in the davs of Titus,
only that it is not so large, and does not cover the
whole of the space which it did then. We shall
by and by produce other evidences in support of
the same opinion, having previously stated, that
after much preparation, and many endeavors to ob-
tain a peaceful surrender of their capital from the
infatuated Jews, Titus made his first attack on the
city the day after the Pascal week, which was Sun-
day, the 2d of April, A. D. 70; and after much
loss of men, and much opposition, took and burnt
the upper city, or Zion, on Sunday, the 2d of Sep-
tember; having thus employed an army of 60,000
men, Romans and auxiliaries, for nearly five months,
in the siege and capture of this wonderful city,
vol. ir. AA
354 JERUSALEM,
We now proceed to examine the ravine on the
west of the city; and the first object that arrests
the attention, is a large square cistern in the bottom
of it, a little below, or to the south of, the gate
of Bethlehem. This answers to the description of
the pool that was made by Hezekiah, mentioned
in 2d Chron. xxxii. 30. This same Hezekiah stop-
ped the upper watercourse of Gihon, and brought
it straight down to the west side of the city of
David. This cistern is evidently of Jewish work-
manship; and, I have no doubt, is the pool alluded
to both in the chapter of the Chronicles, quoted
above, and in the 3d chapter and 16th verse of the
book of Nehemiah. Above, or to the north of
this pool, the ravine is said to have been called the
valley of Gihon, and below it, the valley of the
Son of Hinnom. Proceeding down the ravine, we
find a number of sepulchres on the right-hand side,
that is on the side which is opposite to the city.
They are cut in the rock, and are very well exe-
cuted; and many of them have a series of small
apartments communicating with each other. They
are formed in the same style, both in the cutting at
the entrance and in the excavations within for
receiving the body, as the other tombs of the an-
cient Jews ; and are probably the sepulchres of the
city of David which stood on Mount Zion, directly
opposite, and both they, and the Castle of David,
and the cistern above mentioned, answer to the
JERUSALEM.
description in the 16th verse of the 3d chapter of
Nehemiah: "After him repaired Nehemiah, the
son of Azbak, the ruler of the half part of Beth-
zur, unto the place over against the sepulchres
of David, and to the pool that was made, and
unto the house of the mighty." Some of these
tombs bear the Greek inscription of Tife ayiag ZlflN,
but both the workmanship and the place which it
occupies show it to have been the production of
some idle monk, or scribbling traveller, of no au-
thority, and entitled to no consideration either as
to the name of the tombs or the place. There are
no tombs on the side of the ravine on which the
city stands, namely, on the left-hand side, and
probably there never were any. We are now ar-
rived at the south-west corner of Mount Zion, and
here the ravine turns in an eastern direction. The
tombs still continue a little way down upon the
right; and after they stop, which is at about the
half of the length of the ravine, we come to what
is called the field of blood, or Campo Santo, or
the Potters' field, the place that was purchased by
the price of our Savior's blood to bury strangers
in, and where, on the right-hand side, there is #
square house, built about half way up the bank^
and used for the same purpose. Here the dead are
stript and thrown in naked in heaps, as at Naples,
Palermo, and other such places; but here they are
Sipt so carefully covered up, for the orifice is always
A A 2
356 JERUSALEM.
open, and, on looking in, the dead bodies are to be
seen in all the stages of decomposition. This is
a place for man to look at, and be cured of vanity
and pride in every thing that is human; let him
eat, or drink, or dress as he pleases, thus, like a
filthy rag, the covering of flesh drops off, and he
that has only cared for these things, what a naked
spirit does he pass into the world unknown! I
would not limit the mercy of God, but I should
as soon expect a dog, if cast into the fire, to be-
come a salamander and resist its rage, as such a
spirit to exist and be happy amid the joys of hea-
ven. But this is not the aceldama, the potters* field,
the place which it is represented to be, unless the
ancient Jews made pots of stone. It is both too
near the city of David, and too near the sepulchres
of the Jews to be so. A little farther down is the
cave where it is said the apostles hid themselves
after the crucifixion of Christ. Farther down, the
ravine becomes wider, and the southern bank falls
low as it passes off to the valley of Santa Saba.
In this broad space we were shown the well of
Nehemiah, so denominated from the apocryphal
story of the inspired penman having obtained fire
from it for consuming the first sacrifice that was
offered after the return from the Babylonish cap-
tivity. It is an ordinary-sized deep well, provided
with tolerably good water, and, in cases of scar-
city, contributes to the supply of the city. It is
JERUSALEM. 35J
at the south-east corner of Mount Zion, at the en-
trance of the valley of Santa Saba, along which runs
the brook Cedron and which, turning to the left and
proceeding in a northerly direction, we now ascend.
Here we have the small and comfortless village
of Siloa on our right, which consists of small huts
partly built, and partly dug in the rock; and on
the left a small low projecting point, on the edge
of Mount Zion, is shown as the place where, at
the command of Manasseh, the prophet Isaiah
was sawn asunder with a wooden saw. A little
higher up we come to the pool of Siloam on the
same side; it receives a strong current of water
by a subterraneous passage cut in the north side
of Mount Zion, and which seems as if it came by
a conduit, cut through the rock from the pool of
Hezekiah, already described on the west side of
the city. This pool is also called the fountain of
the stairs. A flight of sixteen steps leads down to
a platform, and another flight of thirteen steps leads
down to the water, which is fresh and good. The
passage by which the water comes out has obviously
been formed by art, and is so large that a person,
by stooping a little, may walk along it under the
mountain. The water is about three feet deep,
and seems to be stagnant in the pool; but there is
a. considerable stream constantly flowing from it,
by a passage which is also cut in the rock for a
good way down, and goes to water the gardens oa
358 JERUSALEM.
the lower slopes of Mount Zion. There are the
remains of a Christian church that once adorned
the entrance to this pool, Which, like the fountain
of Castalia, or the spring of Afethusa, seems in days
of yore to have been treated with signal respect.
Nearly opposite to the pool of Siloam, on the
right-hand side, ascending the bed of the river, are
three ancient monuments which are very entire and
are named the tombs of Jehoshaphat, and Zacha-
riah, arid the pillar of Absalom. The Scriptures
inform us that Jehoshaphat was buried in the city
of David. Mention is made of Zachariah's violent
death, but nothing is said of his burial; and the
pillar of Absalom was erected in the King's dale
or valley of Shaveh, which Josephus says is two
miles distant 'from Jerusalem; so that none of these
monuments are to be considered as properly belong-
ing to the individuals whose names they bear. The
two former are cut out of the rock, are square,
and adorned with cdltimns. The la^t is also square
at the base, adorned with pilasters, contracts by
three stages, and is 'rounded at the top in the form
of a cupola. The columns, pilasters, and cupola,
seem to be of Roman architecture, the rest has
much the appearance of Jewish. They are situated
contiguous to each other on the edge of the valley
of Jehoshaphat, Which stretches out between the
brook 'Cedron and the MoUnt df Olives, and is
filled with graves dug in the rotiky flat, which are
JERUSALEM. 359
covered with stones, and bear inscriptions in the
Hebrew character. Here the Jews still continue
to bury their dead as of yore.
A little higher up the brook Cedron, we are
shown something like the print of a foot in the
edge of its dry rocky bed, which we are informed
is the print of our Savior's foot, marking the spot
where he was arrested by the officers of the chief
priests. The jeweller who sells paste for diamonds
is not half so culpable or abominable as the priest
who humbugs and traffics in Christianity for gain. If
the rock sympathized so much with the arrest of the
Blessed Jesus, we should have expected the impres-
sion of two feet as well as one. The apostles, who
were eye-witnesses of the apprehension of Christ,
make no mention of such an occurrence, which they
certainly would not have failed to do, had it ever
taken place. The impression is a very bad imita-
tion of the human foot, and would in truth be con-
sidered as a caricature of a highland brogue. It
has evidently been the production of a chisel,
which the current of the winter stream has con-
tributed to smooth. There are many such impres-
sions in the streets of London, which are occa-
sioned by the freezing of the water that has entered
the crevices of the stone, the lamina of which are
detached by the thaw, and washed off by the dash-
ing pain. There is one in Soho Square, near Mr.
Trotter's Bazar, which is quite as like the print
360 JERUSALEM.
of the human foot as that in the brook Cedron,
and possesses as good a claim to be that of our
Savior as it does.
A little farther on we came to a bridge of one
arch, over the brook Cedron, which, like the Ilissus
at Athens, is dry at least nine months in the year;
it is nearly opposite to the gate of Saint Stephen,
and leads from the city to the valley of Jehoshaphat,
the gardens of Gethsemane, the Mount of Olives,
the road to Bethany and Jericho, and all the east
side of the river. A little above the bridge, we
pass the tomb of the Virgin Mary, on our right;
adjoining the gardens of Gethsemane, and passing
them the tombs again commence in the valley and
continue for a considerable way. These are too nu-
merous to be the sepulchres of the village of Geth-
semane, and, if Jerusalem extended as far north,
they are probably the sepulchres of that part of the
city which was opposite to them.
Leaving the brook Cedron, at the north end of
the above mentioned sepulchres, and crossing the
field in a western direction, we came in about a
quarter of an hour to what is called the tombs of
the kings of Juda. The road down to them is
cut in the rock, and the entrance is by a large door
also cut in the rock. It leads into a deep excava-
tion open above, about fifty feet long, forty feet
wide, and about twenty feet deep. Heaps of sand
and earth are piled up along the sides, and the
JERUSALEM. 36l
whole has much the appearance of a sand-pit. The
west end seems to have been ornamented with the
greatest care. A cornice with triglyph, regulus,
and guttae pass along the top, and the vine-leaf
mantles round the decorations. In the south-west
corner, a low narrow door leads into a series of
chambers, in each of which there is a number of
excavations cut in the rock for the reception of the
dead, like those which we saw in Malta and Syra-
cuse, all of which are now empty; and the place
is damp and disagreeable. The innermost apart-
ment is adorned above all the rest, and has the
mantling vine with clusters of grapes twined round
the pilasters and inscribed on the sarcophagi.
Josephus states that "the third wall of the city
extended till it came over against the monument of
Helena, queen of Adiabene, and then passed by
the sepulchral caverns of the kings, and bent again
at the tower of the corner, at the monument, which
is called the monument of the Fuller, and joined
to the old wall at the valley of Cedron," which
would be nearly opposite to the place where the
tombs terminate in the valley of Cedron or Jeho-
shaphat, on the other side of the brook; and which
is about a mile and a quarter from the well of Je-
remiah, at the south-east corner of Mount Zion,
where we began to ascend the bed of the Cedron;
and the whole compass of Jerusalem would be
nearly, as Josephus states it, thirty-three furlongs.
$6# JERUSALEM.
Leaving the tombs of the kings, we crossed the
Damascus road and proceeding in a south-west di-
rection with the hill of Scopus on the right, the
traveller arrives at the road from Yaffa, and at
that part of the ravine where we .commenced our
examination on the west of the city. Over the
whole of this field, which lies to the north of the
city, I did not perceive any ditch, nor any very
decided marks of any part of it having ever been
covered by the city or traversed by the city wall.
But it appears from the same respectable historian,
that this was the field of their delight, and was
covered with gardens of pleasure, and fountains and
monuments of illustrious individuals, of whom he
mentions that of Helen the queen of Adiabene,
Herod, and others. At present that part of the
space which lies to the east of the Damascus road
is barren and uncultivated, interspersed with Turk-
ish cemeteries, that occupy here and there an ele-
vated spot, which might have been anciently the
site of a monument or a tower; $nd along the
edge of the brook Cedron, above the low cultivated
spots that fall down towards the brook, there are
many pits dug in the side of the rock, full of hu-
man bones. This is the modern Golgotha, and it
is said they are the celics of the unfortunate suf-
ferers in the late plague that raged in Jerusalem.
The ground to the west of the Damascus road was
covered with a slight crop of barley.
JERUSALEM.
368
Near to the wall of the city, on the north, there
is still shown the grotto of Jeremiah. It is in the
possession of the Turks, and a Santon lives in a
small house with a few trees before it, and smokes
his pipe in the shade near to the place where the
prophet wrote his Lamentations. The north wall
of Jerusalem is lined by a small ditch cut in the
rock, which may serve to cany off the water from
the bottom of the wall, but does not add much
either to the strength or the beauty of its ap-
pearance.
But it is now time to cross the brook Cedron,
and visit the vale of Jehoshaphat, as it is generally
called, but which, in the 19th chapter of Jeremiah,
is described as the valley of the Son of Hinnom,
or the valley of Tophet, which is by the entry of
the east gate, a description which tallies exactly
with the situation of the vale of Jehoshaphat in
relation to Jerusalem; it is, generally speaking, a
rocky flat with a few patches of earth here and
there; it extends from the small village of Siloa,
northwards between the brook Cedron and the
mount or hill of Olives, and lies on the east of Je-
rusalem; it is called the valley of Cedron by Jo
^sephus as above quoted. It was the burial place
-of the ancient Jews as it is that of the modern
Jews in Jerusalem. It is about half a mile broad
from Cedron to the Mount of Olives, and nearly
of the same length -from Siloa to the gardens of
8U
JERUSALEM,
Gethsemane. The road to the Mount of Olives,,
Bethany, Jericho, the dead sea, and the river Jor-
dan passes through it. It is filled with tombs every
where dug in the rock; some of them are large,
indicating the superior condition of their ancient
possessors, but the greater part are small and of the
ordinary size* Many of the stones are covered with
Hebrew inscriptions of the date or import of which
I am entirely ignorant, as I am of the language in
which they are written. But to the learned in
Rabbinical lore, this ancient grave yard is a subject
worthy of investigation; his toil might be rewarded
by the discovery of many venerable names men-
tioned in our sacred volume, and his heart would
be improved by his meditations in the mansions of
the dead.
Approaching the gardens of Gethsemane, which
occupy part of the same valley, one honored tomb
presses upon the attention, and calls the mind im-
periously from the rest. It is the tomb of her who
was highly favored among women, the Virgin Mary,
the mother of Christ, We have formerly stated
that she died on Mount Zion, and here, upon the
same authority, we are told that her mortal remains
were deposited by the Apostles. The structure
which covers this almost deified sepulchre, second
only to that at the foot of Mount Calvary, is a
small square well-built house, one of the many pious
works of St. Helena. It is, held in the most pro-
JERUSALEM. '365
found veneration both by Turks and Christians, both
of whom appoint guardians to watch over it. It is
open early every morning, shut in the middle of the
day, and open again in the evening. The sepulchre
of the Blessed Virgin lies in the bottom of a large
excavation in the rock, to which we descend by a
spacious stair of forty-seven steps. On the sides
of the passages, about half way down, are two small
recesses called chapels, in which are the tombs of
Joachim and Anna, the father and mother of Mary,
and that of Joseph, her husband. At the foot of
the stair we entered into a handsome church, in the
middle of which, considerably removed to the right,
is an altar covering the tomb of this illustrious per-
sonage. Behind this there is another and a larger
altar, and the whole church has an impressive and
solemn appearance, and is well worthy of a visit.
The author of the advertisement to the second edi-
tion of Don Calmet's dictionary of the Bible says,
it is trifling with the public to give a plan of the
tomb of the Virgin Mary near Jerusalem, since the
most enlightened critics have shown that she died
and was buried at Ephesus.
From this reputed tomb of the Blessed Virgin,
we passed to the contiguous grotto of Gethse-
mane, whither, as the hierophants expounded,
Jesus, being in agony, retired from the garden, and
here, in the agonies of his soul, sweated as it
were great drops of blood, falling down to the
366
JERUSALEM,
ground. The door from the garden into the grotto
is still shown, but is completely filled up with mud.
The gardens of Gethsemane are, now of a very
miserable description, hedged round with a dry
stone fence, and provided with a few olive trees,
without either potherbs or vegetables of any kind.
A convent has been built in the place, but is now
in ruins.
From Gethsemane we wound our way up the
Mount of Olives, which is a beautiful round table-
shaped hill, covered with verdure, and crops of
grain, with a sprinkling of olive trees in different
places.
About half way up the hill is a ruined monastery,
built on the place where our Savior wept over
Jerusalem. From this point the spectator enjoys,
perhaps, the best view of the Holy City, and the
three hills on which it stood are distinctly seen.
The Haram Schereeff, and mosque of the Sak-
hara appear to particular advantage, and it would
be difficult to conceive any thing in the form of
a building more light and beautiful. On reach-
ing the summit of the hill, the eye commands a
delightful view of the surrounding country; ex-
tensive, however, only towards the east, on which
side it embraces part of the dead sea and the river
Jordan. There is a small village on the top of the
mountain, and tolerable good crops of barley grow-
ing all round it. It is not relatively high, and the
JERUSALEM. 36?'
summit is not above two miles distant from Jeru-
salem, and would more properly be called a hill
than a mountain. This was the frequent resort of
our Savior and his disciples, and every spot around
is teeming with interest and scenes that eloquently
speak to the heart; but that which imperiously
calls away the mind from all the others, is on the
highest point of the Mount of Olives, the place
where our Savior, blessing his disciples, was taken
up into heaven. What a dreadful separation, Christ
and his disciples! No parting on earth was ever like
unto this. Those who enjoyed his visible presence,
and heard the heavenly instruction that flowred from
his lips, could best describe their bereavement j but
they were stunned and speechless; and who shall
attempt to take up the theme? It is like the inter-
ruption of the divine intercourse in Paradise, the
greatest privation that ever was sustained by man.
Yet how unlike! The separation in Paradise left
wrath and tribulation, and the curse of a broken
law, and man ashamed to show his face under the
weight of his offence, and the alarming conviction
that the same God would annihilate the guilty race
who, by their sins, had occasioned the hiding of his
countenance; but the separation on t*he Mount of
Olives left peace and blessing, and the promises of
consolation—a restoration of the intercourse with
God, since Christ had healed up the breach by
which they were divided. The eyes of the Apo-
368
JERUSALEM*
sties gaze Up into heaven; the eye of the body is
speedily obscured in a heavenly pursuit; but for
the spirit of the Christian in this line of vision there
is no vanishing point, it shoots along the tract with
its ascending Savior, enters in his presence the
mansions of the blessed, and appears, for the first
time since the fall, in the presence of a reconciled
God. This was an ecstasy not soon to be recovered
from; the spirit enjoyed it, but the flesh was un-
conscious. The Apostles stood gazing up into
heaven, till two of its messengers in white apparel
recalled their spirits to the scene of their terrestrial
operations. "Ye men of Galilee why stand ye gazing
up into heaven? This same Jesus which is taken
up from you into heaven, shall so come in like man-
ner as ye have seen him go into heaven." He shall
not come as the avenging God that planted the
flaming sword to keep the way of the tree of life
in Paradise; but as a reconciled and a blessing
God, for he was taken up into heaven in the act of
bestowing his blessing, and in like manner we are
assured he is to return. Such heavenly strains did
not fall ineffectual, the Apostles worshipped their
God and Savior, and returned to Jerusalem with
great joy.
The localities of both these remarkable occur-
rences are particularly pointed out. The spot of
the Ascension is marked by the print of our Sa-
vior's foot in the rock. The last point of contact
JERUSALEM. 36<J
between his glorious body and this our earth. Had
it been flint or adamant no wonder it should melt,
and cling to God, who had assumed an earthly
robe, and tabernacled in clay. Over this memor-
able spot the mother of Constantine the Great built
a church and a monastery, the ruins of which still
remain; but they are in the hands of the modern
Philistines, the Turks, who, for a stipulated sum,
permit the Christian pilgrims to walk in the last
footstep of their Savior, and having offered up their
devotions, to take an impression of it in wax or
plaster which they may carry home to their own
country, to let their friends touch that which had
touched that which had touched the original; and
having done so, how much better or wiser will they
be? God is a Spirit, and they that worship him
must worship him in spirit and in truth, and neither
in stone, nor wax, nor plaster of Paris. Twice I
visited this memorable spot, and each time it was
crowded with devout pilgrims taking casts of the
holy vestige. They had to purchase permission
from the Turks; but had it not been in possession
of the Turks, they would have had to purchase per-
mission from the more mercenary, and not less
merciless Romans or Greeks.
Of the place of the Ascension St. Luke says,
and k< he led them out as far as to Bethany, and he
lifted up his hands and blessed them. And it came
to pass while he blessed them, he was parted from
VOL. II. B B
370 BETHANY.
them, and carried up into heaven." This is Holy
Writ, which I think is stronger than any other
proof, and therefore believe that he did not ascend
from the highest pinnacle of the Mount of Olives.
Let those who maintain the contrary produce their
evidence.
Bethany is a small village to the east of the
Mount of Olives, on the road to Jericho; but not
further, perhaps not so far from Jerusalem as the
top of that mountain. From Bethany to Jerusalem
the road passes by the Mount of Olives. At Be-
thany Christ raised Lazarus from the dead; and
the ruins of a pretty large house, said to have been
his, are shown in the neighborhood of the village,
and which, if true, he could not have been a very
poor man. Still nearer to the village, however, on
the south side of an eminence, a small door, in the
faced up bank, admits the inquirer, and descending
by a flight of steps, he enters a small subterranean
chamber, and a door to the left receives him into
another small room, in the side of which are the
remains of the stony grave in which Lazarus slept,
when awakened by the call of Jesus to come forth
and enjoy the light and society of his friends, and
to live and testify the power of the Son of God.
The rock is a compact limestone, and the tomb,
though much frequented, is kept in no sort of re-
pair. It is covered with dust and fragments of
stones, from the rapacity of visiters breaking a&d
BETHANY. 3jl
carrying off portions of this hallowed grave. On
the eminence above is a small Turkish mosque, into
which I was refused admittance.
The village is small and poor, and the cultivation
around it much neglected; but it is a pleasant ro-
mantic spot, on the shady side of the Mount of
Olives, abounding in trees and long grass. The
inhabitants are Mussulmans, Arabs, without one
Lazarus or Mary to sit at the feet of Jesus. The
shiekh of the village brought me out some barley
bread and milk. We sat down under a tree, I filled
his pipe with tobacco, and we smoked together for
about half an hour, and at parting he was very
happy to receive a piastre for having admitted me
into the tomb of Lazarus. Bethany is the property
of my friend Omar Effendi, and I should have been
glad to have seen it in a more thriving condition.
There are two roads by which to return to Jeru-
salem from Bethany, the one passes over the Moiint
of Olives, the other winds round the east end of it,
and is the shorter and the easier of the two. The
disciples may, with equal propriety, be said to have
returned from the Mount of Olives by either of the
roads. By the lower road we have the greater part
of the Mount of Olives on the north or right hand;
on the left we were shown the site of the barren
fig-tree, the place where Judas hanged himself, and
what some suppose to be the mountain of offence,
which is but a little elevated above the valley of
b b 2
372 MOUNTAIN OF OFFENCE.
Jehoshaphat. Others suppose the mountain of
offence to be that hill to the south of Mount
Zion, on the other side of the ravine, or what has
been called the valley of the Son of Hinnom. It
contains the remains of a ruined village, which is
generally called the Casa di mal Consiglio, or house
of evil counsel; because here the priests, the scribes,
andpharisees took counsel against Jesus to put him
to death.
Some authors will not allow this to be the moun-
tain of offence; but they take a leap as far the
other way, and say that it is Mount Zion; but I
do not think their arguments are sufficiently power-
ful to establish their position; for, in that case,
Mount Zion would be the lower city, and Scripture
says it was the upper city. Josephus states that the
ravine between Mount Zion and the lower city was
filled up by the Asmoneans; but the ravine be-
tween this hill and Mount Zion is all the way
open. He also states, that the besiegers could not
get at Mount Zion, without having first possessed
themselves of the lower city, which would not ap-
ply to any fort erected on the hill, where now
stand the remains of what is called the house
of evil counsel. Further, were this the case, we
should have the sepulchres on the side of the ra-
vine, one of which has been very gratuitously fixed
upon as the sepulchre of Christ, and the aceldama,
or campo santo, all in the middle of the town. On
MOUNT ZION. 373
which account I consider it more agreeable to the
tenor of history, both sacred and profane, to let
Mount Zion stand where it is. For notwithstand-
ing that the magical quill of these learned travellers
may be sufficiently powerful to move mountains, of
which I profess not to entertain a doubt; yet I
think they should cease to tune the Orphean lyre
to Mount Zion, which, of all mountains, is the least
likely to dance to their strains, for we are informed,
on the authority of the Psalmist, David, that Mount
Zion shall not at any time be removed; but stand-
eth ever still.
[ 374 ]
CHAPTER XX,
$ETHLEHEM ST. JOHN'S IN THE DESERT THE VAL-
LEY OF ELAH, WHERE DAVID SLEW GOLIATH PRE-
PARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY DEPARTURE FROM
JERUSALEM,
Prom surveying the scene of our Savior's miracles,
his sufferings, crucifixion, and ascension, we now
direct our view to the place of his nativity, and,
passing out by the gate of Bethlehem, we turn to
the left, descend the sloping bank into the ravine,
leave on our right the pool of Hezekiah, mount
Upon the rocky flat on the other side, and proceed
in a south-west direction towards this memorable
#nd delightfully situated $pot. The road lies over
a rocky and barren piece of ground, which, in some
cultivated patches, bears a scanty crop of grain,
and in others a tolerable production of wild flowers
and grass, with large sheets of uncovered rock, on
which our animals could scarcely keep their feet.
The whole of the scenery, since we entered Pales?
tine, amply confirms the language of Scripture, that
this is a land flowing with milk and honey—a land
for flocks, and herds, and bees, and fitted for the
Residence of men whose trade, like the Patriarchs
BETHLEHEM. 375
of old, was in cattle. But even at this early season
of the year the general aspect is brown and, heathy,
and the first part of the journey between Jerusalem
and Bethlehem possessing little interest, the mind
conjures up its recollections of the illustrious names
who have hallowed the scene, and while the vision
passes over the memory, the traveller is admonish-
ed by his guide to look at the ruined tower of Si-
meon, the monastery of Elias, in possession of the
Greeks, and further on the tomb of Rachel, rising in
a rounded top like the whitened sepulchre of an Arab
shiekh: it is at present a Turkish oratory, a little
to the right of the road, and on a lower level. Fur-
ther on to the west is the well of which David
longed to drink, and of which his mighty men, at
the risk of their lives, procured him a supply. Here
the road winds round the top of the valley, where
by night the angel of the Lord appeared to the
shepherds, announcing the blessed tidings that this
night Christ the Lord is born in Bethlehem. We
are now on holy ground, and having ascended the
hill, passed by the village on our right, and arrived
at the convent in about two hours after we had set
out from Jerusalem.
The convent of Bethlehem is a large good*
looking building. It was erected by the same
pious Helena, so frequently mentioned above, over
the place where Christ the Lord, the Redeemer of
mankind, was bom of a Virgin j it is said to h$ve
37 (> BETHLEHEM.
been early taken possession of by the Christians*
though no allusion to that effect is made in any
part of the New Testament; they were despoiled
of it by the persecuting emperor Hadrian, who,
out of his contempt for Christianity, erected over
the place a statue of Adonis, and celebrated here
the infamous rites of his idolatrous worship.
This convent is divided among the Greek, Ro-
man, and Armenian Christians, to each of whom
separate parts are assigned as places of worship,
and habitations for the monks; but on certain
days all may perform their devotions at the altars
which are erected over the most memorable spots
within these sacred walls. In the upper church,
which is in the form of the Latin Cross, and is by
far the largest, there is nothing worthy of particular
notice, excepting a star in the floor at the further
end of it, immediately under the spot in the heavens
where the star of Bethlehem became stationary to
the eyes of the wise men, and, like it, directly above
the place of the nativity in the church below*
This church is an excavation cut out of the rock,
elegantly fitted up and floored with marble, and to
which we descended by a flight of steps, through
a long narrow passage. Here we were shown the
tomb of Eusebius of Cremona, the study of St.
Jerome in which he translated that version of the
Bible, which has been adopted by the church of
Rome> and called the Vulgate. In another chain*
BETHLEHEM. 3?7
ber we were shown the tomb of this same venerable
father of the church, and at a small distance from
it those of Santa Paula and her son Eustachius.
This pious Roman Lady, of noble descent, built
and endowed several, monasteries in the neigh-
borhood, all of which are now in ruins. Next
we were shown the chamber of the innocents, in
which were buried all the babes of Bethlehem
who had been massacred by the barbarous decree
of Herod. It is a small chamber cut out of the
rock with one column in the middle of it. Next,
for every thing here is recorded, we wrere shown
the place where the impatient Joseph remained
till the Virgin Mary was delivered of her son.
From this we were conducted into a handsome
chapel floored and lined with beautiful marble, and
provided on each side with five oratories, answering
precisely to the ten cribs or stalls for horses, that
the stable in which our Savior was born contained.
At the further extremity of this, we came to an
altar placed in an arcade, and hollowed out below
in the form of an arch to embrace the sacred spot
where God, having laid aside his glory, first ap-
peared in the veil of human nature. A glory in
the floor composed of marble and jasper, and en-
circled with silver, marks the place of the auspi-
cious birth. An inscription records the memorable
event, Hie de Virgine Maria Jesus Christus natius
est.
378 BETHLEHEM,
From the altar of the Nativity, two steps brought
us to the manger in which the infant Jesus was laid.
This is also of marble. It is raised about a foot
and a half above the floor, and hollowed out like
a manger, and the very spot is shown on which the
Savior of mankind reposed. Before it is the altar
of the magi, on which they presented their prayers,
and their adoration. This revered series of sacred
vaults is an excavation about twelve feet deep in
the rock, and is a very unlikely place ever to have
been a stable, as the place in which our Savior
was born is represented in Scripture to have been,
From the top of the convent we were shown the
place in the valley where the angels appeared to
the shepherds, the grotto where David cut off the
skirts of SauPs robe, the western tower at the cis^
tern of David, the place where Jezebel was eaten
of dogs, the convent of Saint Elias, in which
there is a stone that still retains the impression of
his body, and the grotto adjoining the convent of
Bethlehem, wrhere Joseph hid the Virgin Mary, and
the infant Jesus? before they fled into Egypt j and
she having nursed the babe in it, the chalk in the
grotto is still found to be a sovereign remedy for
increasing the secretion of milk, and much resorted
to by mothers who have occasion for it, and listen
%o the advice of the Romish priests.
The village of Bethlehem contains about 300
inhabitants, the greater part of whom gain their
Salomon's pools. 379
livelihood by making beads from the fruit of the
Judaic palm, which is the same with the Thebaic
palm, already mentioned, carving mother-of-pearl
shells with sacred subjects, such as the Holy Family,
the Twelve Apostles, Glory to God in the Highest,
and in making small tables and crosses of the same,
all of which are eagerly purchased by the pilgrims
in Jerusalem, It is but a poor village, but it was
the birth-place of David, and of David's Lord,
which is praise sufficient for any village upon earth.
It is not the least among the princes of Juda.
Having left the convent, we passed out at the
south gate of Bethlehem, where half the population
of the village were assembled, at a contiguous
fountain, to witness the march of our cavalcade.
We moved on in a southerly direction, over a very
rugged and disagreeable road, the rock being com-
pletely uncovered in manyplaces, and after an hour's
travelling, arrived at Solomon's pools. They are
three in number, and are in the shape of a long
square, covered with a thick coat of plaster in the
inside, and supported by abutments. The work-
manship throughout, like every thing Jewish, is
more remarkable for strength than beauty. They
are situated in the south end of a small valley, and,
from the slope of the ground, the one falls consi^
derably below the level of the other. That on the
west is nearest the source of the spring, and is the
smallest, being about 480 feet long; the second is
380 CONVENT OF BETHLEHEM.
about COO feet; and the third about 660 feet long ry
the breadth of them all is nearly the same, about
270 feet. The fountains communicate freely with-
each other, and are capable of containing a great
deal of water, which they discharge into a small
aqueduct that conveys it to Jerusalem. Both foun-
tains and aqueduct are said to have been made by
Solomon the son of David, and the antiquity of
their appearance bears testimony to the truth of the
statement.
On our return to Jerusalem, after passing the
gate of Bethlehem, we descended into the valley
to take a view of the ruined church or convent,
which the pious Helena built over the place in the
valley where the angels appeared to the shepherds,
and announced to them the joyful tidings of the
birth of Christ. It is curious that this interesting
event should also have taken place in a grotto, and
in a grotto dug in the bottom of a valley, as if on
purpose to meet the occasion. Every thing about
it is now in ruins, and, saving the small subterrane-
ous chamber in which the interview with the hea-
venly messengers took place, there is nothing else
to be seen. The valley is ajbout half a mile broad,
runs from north to south, and is quite close to
Bethlehem, on the east, between it and Jerusalem.
Thither we now directed our steps, and entered
the Holy City at sun-set, a little before the closing
of the gates.
ST. .YOHNv,S IX THE DESERT. 381
The next place that we visited in the neighbor-
hood of Jerusalem, was St. John's in the desert.
Here we did not travel in company, but each went
as it was most convenient. One morning in the
beginning of May, I went out by the gate of Beth-
lehem, and turning to the right, crossed the line
of the ravine, and proceeded in a westerly direction.
In about ten minutes we came to a cistern, with
very little water, said to be the upper fountain of
Gihon. It is dug in the rock, in the same manner
as the pools of Solomon beyond Bethlehem, plas-
tered within, and supported by buttresses, and is
not much inferior to the smallest of them in dimen-
sions. Here we are informed that Zadok, the priest,
and Nathan, the prophet, anointed Solomon King
over Israel. A small burial ground lay down to
the left, a flock of sheep were feeding around, their
shepherd had taken his station on an elevated rock,
encompassed with ruins, that rises on the right, to
catch the beams of the morning sun, and with his
almost tuneless reed, was toiling at a native air.
It hardly required the vicinity of Jerusalem, the
Mount of Olives, or a recollection of the wisest
of men, to render this a most interesting scene.
We proceeded over the hill, and in about twenty
minutes arrived at the convent of the Holy Cross,
which is pleasantly situated on the edge of a deep
ravine, and there is a hole under the great altar in
the church, where the tree grew, of which the
382 CONVENT OF ST. JOHN.
true cross was made. This convent, to the great
annoyance of the Romish, is in possession of the?
Greek monks.
We next passed the tombs of the illustrious
Maccabees, situated on the summit of a lofty hill
on our right, and had a distant view of the in-
teresting country of Samuel the seer, and in about
an hour after leaving the convent, in Jerusalem,
we arrived at the convent of St. John. This mo-
nastery is built over the spot where John the Baptist,
the forerunner of our blessed Savior was born-
How this place came to be ascertained as the birth-
place of John I do not know. Mention is made of
his father, Zacharias, who was a priest of the
course of Abia, and burnt incense in his turn, in
the Temple of the Lord, also of his mother Elisa-
beth. Both of them were old, and John was the
child of their old age. His birth was foretold by
an angel, and his father was dumb, from the time
that he had seen the vision till his son was eight
days old -, but nothing is said of the place of his
birth in any part of the New Testament. How-
ever, in the church belonging to the convent, we
read on the left of a splendid altar, the following
inscription: Hie praecursor Domini natus est
Here the forerunner of the Lord was born. On
the right is the altar of Zacharias, and that of the
visitation. The church is well proportioned, with
a number of handsome columns, some tolerably
Jerusalem. 388
good mosaic in the floor, and a portrait of John
the Baptist stuck up against the wall; but it has a
poor and deserted appearance, as if its votaries
were few, and but little concerned about preserving
its ancient grandeur. The situation, however, is
exceedingly pleasant, the monks are provided with
excellent apartments, and the refectory furnished
me with a comfortable breakfast of coffee and melted
butter.
The prospect from the top of the convent pre-
sented to the eye a small cultivated valley, with
the sides of the rising ground terraced, and planted
with the olive, the vine, and the fig-tree, and many
indications that this species of agriculture had been
at one time much more extensive than at present.
The lofty Modin falls also within the range of vision j
it is crowned with the ruined palace of the Macca-
bees, and the burial place of the same illustrious
family: the valley of Turpentine, where David
slew Goliath of Gath, and to the north thereof,
the country of Samuel, the man of God, and close
to the convent the house of Elisabeth, the reputed
scene of that delightful interview mentioned in the
Gospels between the mother of our Lord and the
mother of his forerunner, John the Baptist. The
babes still slumbered in the womb, yet the mo-
thers were instructed from Heaven of the high
character of those to whom they were destined to
give birth. This interview took place in the hill
384 JERUSALEM.
country, in the house of Zacharias, in a city of
Juda. The parties were near relatives and friends,
and each having been supernaturally informed of
the condition of the other, gave vent to the feel-*
ings of her soul in the most tender and affection-
ate language, full of gratitude to God for his mercy
in making them the highly-favored instruments of
so much good to our fallen race. No interview on
record was ever equal to this, whether we consider
the personages, the subjects of their mutual con-
gratulation, or the pathetic manner in which it is
told by the Evangelist Luke. Here Elisabeth died,
and here she is said to have been buried; and over
the spot a monastery and church were erected, all
of which are now in ruins.
Having examined this memorable spot, we pro-
ceeded through the village, crossed a small stream
that trickled along the valley, and wound our way
over a barren track, which industry has cultivated
in terraces, and which, though called the desert,
is really better cultivated, and more numerously
inhabited than any part in the neighborhood of
Jerusalem. Having travelled about three quarters
of an hour in a north-west direction, we came to a
casale, or country village, named Colonia, which
lay down on our right. Small fields of grain occur
in different places; the olive, the vine, and fig-trees
abound; and here at least the desert may be said
to bud, and blossom like the rose. About a quarter
JERUSALEM. 385
of an hour further, and in the same direction, but
without any regular track to guide our steps, we
arrived in company with a native of Calonia, at
the cave of St. John. It is situated on the edge
of a deep rocky ravine, abounding in trees, among
which are many of those called locust-trees, which
shows that, whatever may have really been the
food of the forerunner of our Savior, the fruit
of the tree is what the early Christians under-
stood by the locust mentioned in the Gospels.
Close by the cave there is a small fountain of fresh
water, supplied by a stream from the rock, and the
ruins of a small monastery that had been built over
the early residence of the messenger of Christ. A
small cave, about 10 feet square, and the scattered
fragments of a small edifice, are all that remain to
testify the splendor with which the middle ages de-
corated this interesting spot. The vicinity of a
village, and the cultivation consequent upon it,
have taken away much of the desert appearance
which it once possessed; for now a residence in
this place would not be any greater banishment
from the society of man, than in the neighborhood
of any town or village in Judea.
From the cave of St. John we descended the hill
in an easterly direction, and, having crossed a
cultivated, and tolerably^sized valley for these parts,
we arrived in about 20 minutes at the place in the
valley of Turpentine, which is recorded as the
VOL. II. c c
386 JERUSALEM.
scene of conflict between David and Goliath.
Nothing can be better described than the ground
occupied by the two opposing armies is, in the
language of Scripture: "And Saul, and the men
of Israel* were gathered together, and pitched by
the valley of Elah (Turpentine), and set the battle
in array against the Philistines, and the Philistines
stood on a mountain on the one side, and Israel
stood on a mountain on the other side, and there
was a valley between them." This valley is the val-
ley of Elah; it is a small valley, and the place of
their encampment is pointed out where it narrows
into a broad deep ravine; part of it was in crop,
and part of it under the plough, which was drawn
by a couple of oxen* A small stream which had
shrunk almost under its stony bed, passes through
it from east to west, from which we are informed,
that David chose out five smooth stones, and hasted
and ran to meet the haughty champion of Gath.
A well of water under the bank, with a few olive
trees above, on the north side of the valley, are
-said to mark the spot of the shepherd's triumph
over his boasting antagonist. Saul and his men
probably occupied the side of the valley which is
nearest to Jerusalem, on which the ground is higher,
and more rugged than on the other side, which
was occupied by the Philistines, who, after their
defeat, retreated to Ekron, and David brought the
'head of the Philistine to Jerusalem. From Ekh
JERUSALEM. 387
we returned along a pleasant and picturesque road
to the convent of St. John, and thence retraced
our steps to Jerusalem, which we entered a little
before sun-set.
The annual procession of the pilgrims to the
river Jordan, accompanied by the governor of Je-
rusalem, took place a few days after the celebration
of the Greek Easter, during the time that we were
in the holy city; but from indisposition the noble
traveller did not accompany them on that interest-
ing occasion. Captain Corry was the only one of
the party who joined the procession. I proceeded
out by the gate of David to the top of Mount
Zion, and saw the green standard unfurled, and
the motley train of soldiers and pilgrims, some on
horses, some on mules, some on asses, some on
foot, move from their place of rendezvous, above
the valley of Jehoshaphat, and gradually withdraw
till the extended base of the Mount of Olives hid
them from the view. The object of the governor
and Turkish soldiers was to protect the pilgrims
from the assaults of the plundering Arabs of the
district, and the object of the pilgrims was to bathe
in the Jordan, and to dip their robes in its hal-
lowed stream; these they dry and carry home with
them, and carefully preserve to be the last robes
that wrap their exanimated clay when dressed for
the tomb. The journey and ceremony together
generally occupy the greater part of three days,
ccg
388 JERUSALEM.
though many of the travellers perform it in two;
during which they visit the river Jordan and the
dead sea, and many of them perform their ablu-
tions in both, and will probably find both the salt
water and the fresh to answer equally well the ob-
ject for which they use them.
The concerns of eternity are of too serious
consideration to be hinted at in jest; but what a
foolish and unprofitable task do these men propose
to themselves and their followers, who load the
plain and simple religion of Jesus with a farrago
of ceremonies, or to think that there is any way
of propitiating an offended Deity, but that which
is revealed to us in his word. It is to pagan-
ize Christianity, which disclaims all oblations and
sacrifices, but those of a contrite heart and life,
and complete reliance on the merits of the Son of
God; it is to withdraw the soul from confiding in
Christ, and acceptance through him, and to place
the hopes of salvation in pilgrimages, relics, inter-
cessions of saints, or winding sheets washed in the
Jordan, to help them through the strait gate j in fine
it is virtually to deny the efficacy of Christ's atone-
ment, to blaspheme God, and to seek for salvation in
another way than that which is offered in the Gospel.
On the 5th of May, at a quarter past eleven
o'clock, as I was returning from the house of Omar
Effendi, my attention was arrested by a central
eclipse of the sun, the centre of the luminous
JERUSALEM. 389
body was completely obscured, and the light flamed
out in a circle all round it. It excited very little
curiosity among the natives of Jerusalem, hardly
any of whom seemed to know or recollect that
darkness over all the land accompanied the suffer-
ings of the Son of God in this devoted city.
In this account of the environs of Jerusalem,
two places, which we did not visit, are omitted,
Emmaus and Hebron. The former is within two
hours' ride of the Holy City, to the north-west of
Modin, in what I have mentioned as the country
of Samuel, whose burial place is much honored,
and covered by a Turkish mosque. To the west
of Emaus are shown the mountain of Gibeon and
the valley of Ajalon, where the sun and moon
stood still at the prayer of Joshua the Son of Nun,
the illustrious chief of the armies of Israel.
Hebron is seven hours distant from Jerusalem,
and five hours to the south-west of Bethlehem*
It is still a considerable village, with part of an old
castle remaining from the time of the Jews, and
contains an elegant mosque, built over the cave of
Machpelah the burial place of Abraham and Sarah,
Isaac and Rebekah, and the ancient patriarchs of
God's peculiar people. Their tombs are still ex-
hibited in the interior of the mosque; but the
entrance into the cave or sight of the relics, which
the Turks, though I believe without any just
ground, declare still to exist, is peremptorily denied,
390 JERUSALEM.
In taking a retrospective view of his different
walks, the traveller cannot help exclaiming what
a wonderful place is Jerusalem? there is nothing
comely or beautiful in her appearance, but listen
to her story; every part within and around her
walls has been the scene of some great and mira-
culous event, each of them marking a progressive
stage in the consummation of that plan by which
the Almighty was pleased to accomplish our sal-
vation by the birth, life, death, resurrection, and
ascension of Jesus Christ. Revisit the reputed
scene of each event in detail, there is nothing of
cotemporary existence to delight the eye; but
the flood-gates of all our feelings are unlocked in
succession, and the mind is by turns delighted and
refined, and humbled in a conscious inadequacy of
keeping its faculties alive, and of sustaining through-
out that intense and solemn fervor with which it
becomes the Christian to look upon each hallowed
spot in this sacred ground. He pauses in his
rounds, and baits in retirement, and with renovated
vigor recommences the review, and after a little
success in his often baffled, and often resumed at-
tempts, he gladly hopes that the scenes will become
less fatiguing as they become more familiar, and
that in time the heart of earthly mould will become
etherialized and purified, and possess a train of
spiritual meditation that without exhaustion will
carry it through these heavenly scenes, and that
JERUSALEM. 3QI
from often visiting this theatre of men and angels,
and where God himself appeared in human form,
he will become wiser and better, and, like the
glorified spirits in heaven, will feel it to be his
meat and drink to do the will of God. He casts
his eye upon the thousands of Christians, who for
years, or from their infancy, have enjoyed these
golden opportunities of amelioration, and when
instead of finding a more staid and perfect, or more
enlightened Christian, purified from sin, and pre-
pared to make a happy transit through the night
of the grave to the mansions of heavenly light
and life, he sees them selfish and unregenerate
and troubled about many things; old in craft and
avarice, and hardened in the ways of iniquity, he
is irresistibly forced to conclude the absolute no-
thingness of place, in the permanent improvement of
the human heart, and that nothing but the grace
of God, which is equally promised and equally
powerful to people of every clime and of every
tongue, can change the character or life of man,
and that without its quickening influence, neither
Moses, nor the prophets, nor Paul, nor Apollos,
nor the mighty deeds done in Jerusalem, nor the
mighty words spoken in Sinai, are of any avail, but
fall unawakening and unimpressive on the heart,
like the most charming melody upon the deafened
ear, or the most genial light upon the sightless eye*
The physician who visits Jerusalem, may assure
892 JERUSALEM.
himself of a cordial reception, provided he is pro-
perly recommended, and the best of all recom-
mendations is that of travelling with a family of
distinction. Both Turks and Arabs and oriental
Christians are perfect gluttons in physic, and place
greater confidence in its wonder-working powers,
than the more enlightened people in Europe are
disposed to do; but they have been so often gulled
by pretenders to the art, that a solitary traveller
declaring himself to be of that profession is looked
upon with suspicion, and must work his way through
lengthened files of gossipping quacks and anile
competitors, fraught with legions of nostrums from
every country under heaven, against every ailment
with which the human body can be assailed, from
a scratch of the finger to a scirrhous ulcer or a pes-
tilential boil. But all their clamours are silenced
by such an introduction, his prescriptions are re-
ceived with unlimited confidence, and applications
for advice are without end. Crowds of invalids, the
halt, the blind, the lame, and the sick of every dis-
ease, collected from all quarters of the country as-
sail him, so that unless he give his whole time up to
them, he will find it impossible to satisfy their de-
mands. It is the hardest of all refusals for a medical
man at any time to decline giving advice for the
health of a fellow-creature, but more especially so
in Jerusalem. The patients seize upon him as if
only he stood between them and death j they fall
JERUSALEM, 39&
down before him on the ground, grasp his legs,
kiss his feet, and supplicate him for the love of
God, to look at them and prescribe for their com-
plaints. They rarely present him with silver or gold,
but the father, the mother, the sister, the brother,
or some friend or relation of the patient stands by
with a sheep, a lamb, or a goat, a chaplet of beads,
a carved shell, or some other portion of his property
to reward him for his trouble. The soul is touched
when the body suffers, and any thing for health.
Whether he is in his lodgings, walks in the streets,
or sits down in the market-place, the physician is
equally beset; some needy sufferer finds him out,
and comes up under the wings of some favored
Turk, who prefers an unnecessary request in be-
half of the invalid: no sooner has he prescribed
for one, than another victim of disease pathetically
assails him, and thus he is kept in constant employ
and hunted, as if by a dog, both over town and
country.
The medical practitioner who travels in those
countries and wishes to be useful, which it is hoped
every member of the profession does, should take
along with him a set of surgical instruments, par-
ticularly such as are necessary for operations on
the eye, and for laying open fistulous sores; also a
chest of medicines well stored with calomel and
jalap, bark, the liquor of ammonia, which from
the debilitated state of the digestive organs, oc-
394 JERUSALEM.
ca&ioned by the excessive use of tobacco, he will
find of great service; powders for making soda-
water and the spirits of nitrous ether, he will find
universally called for, and a small quantity of them
will be sufficient to secure him the temporary
friendship of any great man in the country; he
ought also to take opium along with him, which,
strange as it may appear, I hardly ever found good
in those countries, and he will find the ointment
of the nitrate of mercury of great service in the
eruptive diseases on which he will often be con-
suited. Such other medicines as he may have oc-
casion for he will generally meet with in the con-
vents or the shops of the country. If it fall to
his lot, as it did to mine, he will have many eyes to
operate upon and many fistulous sores to lay open,
most of them arising from neglected gun-shot
wounds, which are very frequent in those countries,
where every man who carries a gun may fire it
almost with impunity at any other man who comes
in his way.
It is now time to think of leaving the Holy City,
previous to which it is necessary to obtain a pass-
port from the Pasha of Acre, and as there are two
roads by which the traveller may go to Bisan, it is
necessary to specify by which of the routes he
intends to proceed, in order that each of the petty
towns or villages that occur in the way, may be
particularly specified in the passport, so that none
JERUSALEM. 395
of the shiekhs or governors may interrupt or detain
the traveller under any captious or frivolous pretext
of their own* It is ten chances to one that the
passport will not be asked for once during the
whole of the journey, but if it should and the tra-
veller have none to present, then there is a suffi-
cient plea for fleecing him of his money, or making
him their prisoner till he can obtain an order to
proceed, a dilemma which every prudent man
would wish to avoid. Every one of these petty
chiefs are extortioners, selfish and cruel when they
can be so with impunity, and it is only the dread
of their superiors that makes them honest or
tolerant, and no principal of philanthropy or inte-
grity in the heart.
The roads to Bisan are one by Jericho, up the
pleasing and fertile banks of the Jordan, the other
by Nablous and Jennin through the mountainous
district, both of which are full of interesting scenes
and places of glorious recollection. The former
is the shortest, and, had it been also the safest or
equally safe, would probably have been preferred;
but the unkindly disposition of the natives counter-
balances every inducement. The traveller is liable
to be insulted, plundered, and stopt in his journey.
Even the presence of one or two Turkish soldiers
is insufficient to protect him; for though the coun-
try is under the government of the Turks, yet
their power is more nominal than real, and their
396 JERUSALEM.
orders are only obeyed when backed by the efficient
accompaniment of an armed force, which the go-
vernors are unwilling to send often into these
quarters, least if frequently repeated it also might
be set at defiance; besides, had any accident be-
fallen the noble travellers, he would have been the
person from whom the Porte would have demanded
satisfaction, so that in placing them under the pro-
tection of the Pasha of Acre, all responsibility
was transferred from the governor of Jerusalem,
which, though itself is in the Pashalic of Damascus,
yet it is every where surrounded by the Pashalic
of Acre. For these reasons the governor of Je-
rusalem recommended to his noble visiter to travel
by the way of Nablous, being unable to guarantee
his safety by that of Jericho, and in sending to
Acre for the passport, desired that Nablous, Bisan,
Tiberias, Nazareth, the source of the river Jordan,
and other places in the route by which he intended
to travel to Damascus, might all be specially men-
tioned. All these .precautions were considered as
necessary, notwithstanding the general Firman
from the Porte authorizing us to travel in these
parts*
It was also necessary, in order to obtain money,
to send the drafts on Constantinople to Acre, for
at Jerusalem the governor either does not possess
the cash, or is afraid to part with it that way: so
little are they acquainted with money transactions
JERUSALEM. 397
that even at Acre, I believe, occasional difficulties
are met with; but, through the good word of the
Lady Hester Stanhope, nothing of the kind oc-
curred in the present instance. These affairs hav-
ing been arranged, we were prepared to quit the
Holy City. But this I cannot do without once
more returning to my worthy friend, Omar Effendi,
whose friendship for me remained unabated, and
whose anxiety for my continuing in Jerusalem, in-
creased as the day of our departure approached.
The inflammation in his eyes had undergone
several exacerbations, which had been successively
subdued, and he remained free from pain with
great and manifest improvement; but still much
organic irritability, and a disposition to relapse
even on moderate exposure to light, which was
much aggravated by his own impatience; for he
was so pleased to see the eye resume its natural
color, free of sanguineous suffusion, that he kept
constantly examining it at the glass, and turning
up, and pulling down the eyeJids, on the slightest
pain, to see if the inflammation were returning,
which, if it did, there was no person in Jerusalem,
he said, who could remove it when I was gone.
This was the subject of many prayers, and many
pious ejaculations, and many earnest entreaties for
me to remain in Jerusalem, or to give my word that
I would return and live among them, which were
so often repeated, as to make refusal, which is at
all times unpleasant, truly painful. But I received
898 JERUSALEM,
other, and more substantial, proofs of the gratitude
of this noble Turk, for the services which I had
rendered him.
Two days before I left the Holy City, the inter-
preter entered my apartment when I was reposing
during the heat of the day, after my morning's fa-
tigue, and informed me, that he had just come
from the Capo Verde, whose servant was standing
at the gate of the convent, with an Arab horse,
saddled and bridled ready for the journey, of which
he begged my acceptance; and that he was desired
to say, that if a present of robes would be more
agreeable to me, they were ready, and that I had
only to signify the preference. Could I have
brought him to England, the horse would have
been to me the most acceptable of all presents;
but every arrangement having been already made
for the journey, I considered it unnecessary for
me to accept of a horse which I should ride only
for a few days, when I should be obliged to sell it,
and thus undergo the double mortification of part-
ing, first with my friend, and then with his pre-
sent. Accordingly, I desired the interpreter to
return my grateful thanks to the Capo Verde for
the honor he had done me by the offer of such a
valuable present; that I considered any services
that I had rendered him in my professional capa-
city amply requited by the unremitting and unpa-
ralleled civilities that he had constantly shown me
during the whole period of my residence in Jeru-
JERUSALEM. 399
salem; but since, over and above so many signal
marks of favor, he was pleased to press upon me
the acceptance of a gift, that robes would certainly
be more agreeable; for that, whatever I received
from him, I should wish to take along with me to
my native country, and to keep it during the re-
mainder of my life.
The interpreter, having delivered this message
to Omar Effendi, returned immediately to the
convent, accompanied by another of his servants,
bearing an India shawl, two white turbans of India
muslin, and three pieces of Damascus silk for
caftans, of which he requested my acceptance,
adding, at the same time, that he wished to see me
as soon as convenient. Having received the pre-
sent from the hand of the servant, I proceeded
immediately to the house of his master, and after
talking and smoking with him for about an hour,
when I was on the point of going away, he called the
servant to bring him his own Abba, which he put
on me, saying, that he had received it in a present
from his excellent friend Ibrahim, the Pasha of Da-
mascus, and now begged of me to accept of it, and
wear it as a pledge of his affection and esteem;
adding, that while I travelled in the country, I
should find it a more effectual protection than the
dress of the Bedoweens, in which I proposed to
travel. It was a goodly robe, of the finest tex-
ture, and of the manufacture of fiagdadt; the
400 JERUSALEM.
body and sleeves were lined with yellow silk, the
shoulders and corners with rich green satin, and
highly embroidered; and nothing could be more
light or pleasant to wear*
Some neglect on the part of the shiekh of the
caravan, detained us a day longer in the Holy City
than we expected, so that I had an opportunity of
seeing the worthy gentleman several times after
I considered that I had taken leave of him. On
the morning of our departure, his servant came to
the convent before the interpreter, and, being ad-
mitted, informed me, that his master wished to see
me; I went directly with him, wearing the Abba
that I had received from him the day before; and,
meeting the interpreter by the way, we went all in
company. The Capo Verde rose in his usual way
to receive us on our entrance ; but there was in all
his demeanor a certain melancholy, which he ap-
peared anxious to conceal, by frequently attempting
to smile, and say pleasant things; but the whole
tone of his countenance was sorrowful, and the
frequent tear starting in his eye showed that the
predominant feeling in his heart was different from
mirth. We were entertained with our usual fare
of coffee and tobacco, on our first going in, and,
in a short time, an excellent breakfast was placed
before us, of which Taher Effendi, the head of
the law, came, and partook. As soon as the re-
past was finished, I was impatient to take leave;
JERUSALEM. 401
but that was as impossible, without smoking a pipe
of tobacco, as it would be to leave the dinner-table
here without drinking a glass of wine, wrhich being
complied with, I was permitted to go to the con-
vent; but under a promise that I should visit him
in passing, as the road lay near his house. Having
arranged my affairs at the convent, I got my pipe,
my flask of water, and my other accoutrements,
and, mounting my mule with the foremost, I had
scarcely turned his head down the street, when 1
found the interpreter, and the chamberlain of the
Capo Verde, waiting for me; so that had I been
inclined, I could not have availed myself of the
over-squeamish European fashion of leaving my
friend without taking leave at all. For the first
time, I was conducted up a long narrow passage,
and, alighting at the door of the haram, whither
my good friend had retired, a servant received my
quadruped, and I entered to bid him a long adieu. I
found the worthy gentleman in better spirits than
I expected; the morning cloud had passed away,
and he saluted me in a voice of cheerful benignity,
"Well, this is the last time; you are going to leave
us?" I replied in the affirmative, "yes, but I
shall carry you with me in my heart," "and you
shall remain in the conversation of mine," rejoined
the worthy schereef, "but I hope to see you again
in Jerusalem, and then you must come and live ill
my house, and not go to the convent; you see it
VOL. II. D D
402 JERUSALEM.
is large enough; you shall have a quarter of it to
yourself." I assured him, if circumstances per-
mitted, "that I should be truly happy to revisit
Jerusalem, when I should gladly avail myself of
his invitation. On saying this, I held out my hand,
which he grasped in the most affectionate manner;
and, embracing me in his arms, called out, "go
in peace; glory to God! glory to God! God give
you health! God give you a good journey! Come
back to Jerusalem, and I will illuminate the house!
This is the first house that you visited in Jerusa-
lem, and I wished it should be the last. Glory to
God! glory to God! go in peace, go in peace, go
in peace!" How delightful do the sayings of a
friend repeat upon the ear of recollection; they
are like the fanning of an angel's wing, to kindle
in our heart the flame of affection for all mankind!
It was impossible not to be penetrated with such
expressions of regard, imparted with an ardor that
left no doubt of the sincerity and warmth of the
heart from which this proceeded. I gradually with-
drew from his relaxing embrace, though, at every
effort, his arms were again pressed to retain me,
and left him alone in his apartment. As I passed
through the landing-place, his women were stand-
ing at the door of the haram, uttering prayers for
my prosperity, and thanking me for the services
that I had rendered to the Capo Verde, wished
that God would put it in my heart to return, and
JERUSALEM. 403
dwell in Jerusalem. Half frantic with the over-
whelming emotions of this tender adieu, I left the
mansion of Omar Effendi; and, mounting my animal,
which was held for me at the foot of the stair, was
soon out of the hearing of their valedictions, though
the recollection of their uniform kindness shall
never be effaced from my memory. In a few mi*
nutes I passed the Damascus gate, and was without
the walls of Jerusalem, where I joined the noble
travellers, and proceeded on the way to Nablous.
The chamberlain of the Capo Verde mounted his
horse to convey me out of town, and rode in front
of the cavalcade as fat as a Turkish oratory, on the
right-hand side of the way, about a mile from Je-
rusalem; when, having complied with the orders
of his master, he returned, waving his haiid as he
passed at a rapid pace, and muttering some Arabic
sentences, in token of adieu, which I did not
understand.
b d 9.
[ 404 ]
CHAPTER XX.
JOURNEY TO NABLOUS KHAN LEBAN NABLOUS
SEBASTE, OR SAMARIA JENIN BISAN TIBERIAS,
&C.
We left the Holy City on the 8th of May, at eight
o'clock in the morning, having remained in it three
and twenty days. The road is rough and stony, and
the country rugged and mountainous, unsuscepti-
ble of any species of cultivation, except by being
terraced, like what we saw at St. John's in the de-
sert, and in the island of Malta, where the system
Was probably introduced by the Knights, and there
are many traces of its having been cultivated in that
manner. Under this species of ornamental culture,
Jerusalem might then appear worthy of the epithet
bestowed on it by Pliny, as being by fax\ the most
beautiful city of the East. At present it is per-
fectly naked, and stands in the midst of the most
barren ground I ever saw. It is relatively low in
its situation, and is enclosed by low mountains on
the north and on the east, a high one on the south,
and a low rocky flat on the west, stretching out to-
ward Bethlehem*
BEER, 405
In three hours and a half from Jerusalem, we
arrived at Beer, which seems to have been once a
place of considerable consequence, and is said to be
the place alluded to in Judges, "And Jotham ran
away and fled, and went to Beer." The Beerites
are named among those who followed Joab in pur-
suing Sheba the son of Bichri. It has a wTell of
good water, from which it derives the name Beer,
which signifies a well. Close to it are the moulder-
ing walls of a ruined khan, and on the top of the
hill two large arches of a ruined convent.
Leaving Beer, we came in a little time to a place
where two roads meet, and proceeded along the
right for Nablous. After two hours' travelling along
the same stony path, we passed the village of Ein-
broot, which is finely situated on our left, on the
top of a hill. The adjoining valley is well culti-
vated, and the sides of the hills are raised in ter-
races, and planted with the olive, the vine, and the
fig-tree. On approaching Einbroot the guide of the
caravan called out for us to march in close order.
Here it was reported that we were in danger of
being attacked by banditti, and that the muskets
were seen pointed at us over the stones; but upon
the guide, who rode considerably in advance, in-
forming them who the party were whom they meant
to attack, that they travelled under the protection
of a firman from the Porte and the Pasha of Acre,
and what was, perhaps, as powerful a dissuasive,
406 KHAN LEBAN.
that we were armed, and could fight as well as they
could, they withdrew their weapons of offence, and
remained quiet. A little further on we passed two
villages on our left, the names of which I did not
learn. The road lay partly through a rocky dell,
and partly through a narrow cultivated valley; but
the general aspect of the country was particularly
wild and barren. The next village that we passed
was called Engeeb, also on the top of a hill on the
left, and the adjoining ground was well cultivated
in the same manner. After this we passed a fine
looking picturesque hill, every way susceptible of
cultivation, at the foot of which we entered the
small valley of Khan Leban, where we found the
ruins of an old khan, with many mouldering vaults,
and a plentiful spring of clear water, much infested
with small worms. It derives its name from a vil-
lage called Leban, at the other end of the valley.
It is eight hours from Jerusalem, and here we pitch-
ed our tents for the night, the place being agree-
able and convenient, with plenty of grass for the
animals.
Next morning, the 9th, we resumed our journey
at a quarter before seven o'clock, and as we held
our way through the narrow valley, were extremely
delighted with the variety of shade and sunshine
that lay on its verdant surface, as the mountain
rose or fell upon its side. Having passed the vil-
lage of Leban, the road, winding with the valley, pro*
JOURNEY TO NABLOUS. 407
ceeds in a northern direction. Here the ground is
rich and well cultivated, and several ploughs were
busily engaged. We next passed the village of
Zanio, and travelling for a considerable time over
a mountainous and barren track, descended into a
fertile valley, where we found the reapers cutting
down an excellent crop of barley. Here are three
comfortable looking villages near each other; the
first is named Cousa, the second Anabous, and the
third Couara. We are now about two hours and a
half from Nablous. The ground in this valley is
remarkably stony, but well cultivated. Having
ascended the hill, we passed on our right the
tomb of the Patriarch Joseph, situated in the plain
below. It is now a Turkish oratory, with a whiten-
ed dome, like the tomb of his mother Rachel, on
the road between Jerusalem and Bethlehem. At a
little distance, in the same plain, and nearer to the
mountain, probably Gerezim, we saw another build-
ing resembling the tomb of an Arab shiekh, and
said to be Jacob's Well. At the top of the hill we
opened a fine olive grove, with a stream of water
in front of it. Here, being anxious to have a view
of Jacob's Well, we proceeded across the field in
that direction; but had not advanced far till we
were assailed by prohibitory calls from a small fort
on the side of the hill. To which, however, as we
did not understand them, we, at first, paid no atten-
tion j but the calls were speedily followed by the
408 NABLOUS.
discharge of a musket fired across our front. This
arrested our progress, and drew our attention to the
place from which it came. Upon this the calls were
redoubled, and our guide coming up, informed us,
that we were addressed by the guard, who was
placed there to keep the pass, and that we could
not proceed to Jacob's Well. We had previously
been informed that the Arabs around Nablous were
in arms against the governor; but this is the only
specimen of Turkish vigilance that occurred to us
on the road. We saw no symptoms of rebellion
among the Arabs.
We now crossed the stream, and resumed the
road to Nablous, through the olive grove, accom-
panied by a man, who said he had been sent by the
governor to welcome us to the town, and conduct
us thither. We proceeded through the bazars,
which presented a substantial appearance, and were
well stored with fruit and vegetables, cloths, shoes,
boots, tobacco and tobacco-pipes, and all sorts of
commodities usually met with in those countries;
and such a degree of quiet and comfort seemed to
pervade the town, as showed that the citizens en-
tertained very little apprehension from the disturb-
ances without. All this time we had imagined that
our man was conducting us to the palace of the
governor, and on turning a little off the street, and
passing a large gateway, were rather disappointed
to find ourselves in the open court of a large khan*
NABLOUS. 409
and still more so on being informed that here we
must wait the pleasure of the governor, who was
then asleep in his haram. This piece of intelligence
was but little relished by any of the party, and we
more than suspected that our officious conductor,
who met us at the river, was but a self-constituted
messenger from the governor of Nablous, who, un-
der this nefarious pretence, having got us into the
net, was going to make his own terms before he let
us out.
We were impatient to proceed, and there was
no time for delay, as we wished to reach Sebaste
that night, and the intrapping knave having re-
fused to open the door of the khan, the Albanian
soldier, who accompanied us from Jerusalem, was
despatched to acquaint the governor of Nablous
with our situation, and our desire to continue our
journey. Perceiving this our gentleman began to
relax, probably from an apprehension that his ex-
pedient for raising the wind would not, in the pre-
sent instance, be attended with the success he had
anticipated, and modestly shifted his ground so far
as to say, that he would let us out if we gave him
a little money for having conducted us in; a pro-
posal which was treated with merited contempt;
and the noble traveller, who perceived the full
force of it, instantly mounted his horse, and order*
ed the door of the khan to be opened. Our man
then stept forward, and lowering his tone, or rather
410 NABLOUS-
his terms, exclaimed, "You must pay, at least, for
all who are not Englishmen." An exception which
only created another laugh; and he was humor-
ously asked if he knew who were Englishmen and
who were not. The Earl and Countess of Belmore
he allowed were Englishmen, and might, therefore,
pass scot free. The same honor he awarded to the
rest of the party, with the exception of myself, who,
he protested, was an Arab, or some sort of Orien-
tal Christian; and, therefore, in his view of things,
liable to pay the caphar. This only produced
another laugh, and his shrinking soul began to feel
that he should not be much enriched by his con-
temptible stratagem, when our Albanian returned
with the compliments of the governor's brother,
saying, that his excellency would have been happy
to have seen the noble travellers; but since it was
inconvenient for them to wait till he had finished
his nap in the haram, they were at perfect liberty
to proceed, and he wished them a good journey.
This gave the death-blow to the scheme of our de-
tainer, whose blank and mortified aspect it would
be difficult to describe when he saw the whole party
pass out by the gate of the khan, leaving him what-
ever dust might fall from their shoes, but not so
much as the touch of a farthing. He took his re-
venge, however, on one of the Armenian servants,
who very inconsiderately remained behind, and
whom he seized at the gate of the city; on the de-
NABLOUS, 411
mand of a caphar of two piastres, which the poor
man not being able to pay, was obliged to leave his
gun in pledge, under the promise that he should
have it on paying the forfeited demand, which, to
claim, would but occasion the forfeiture of another
two piastres.
Nablous is a respectable good looking country
town. I have written the name as it is pronounced
by the Turks and Arabs in Syria who do not speak
Italian. The Christians, who speak Italian, call it
Nablosa. The word in its Greek origin is Neapolis,
or Newton. It is situated on the west side of a
narrow, but pleasant vale, and is plentifully sup-
plied with water. The vale runs from north to
south, and is bounded on the east by Mount Gere-
zim, and on the west by Mount Ebal. We read in
the Sacred Writings that the blessing was upon the
former, and the curse upon the latter. The en-
virons of the town are adorned with small gardens
which skirt the banks of the river that waters the
valley. We passed its scarcely moistened bed, and
a little above the town saw an ancient bridge with
twelve arches, which were still capable of main-
taining the communication between the two sides
of the valley. In about three quarters of an hour
fiom Nablous we came to a copious spring of cr0od
water, which was called Beersheba. This is the
broadest and best cultivated part of the valley, and
the people were busily engaged in reaping a scanty
4»1& SEBASTE.
crop of barley. On Mount Ebal, the hill opposite^
we saw a considerable village, and a large building
like a ruined fort. Whether the curse still rests
upon it or not, I cannot say; but it is far from
being so fertile as the opposite side of the valley.
In about a quarter of an hour from Beersheba we
reached the top of the hill, and as we wound our
way down the other side, had an excellent view of
the delightfully situated Sebaste. In a few minutes
we passed a ruined aqueduct of Roman architec-
ture, and pitched our tents at the bottom of the
hill, nearly opposite to its unworthy successor, a
poor village of the same name, having travelled this
day about nine hours.
Sebaste, as we learn from the XVth Book of
Josephus on the Antiquities of the Jews, is the
name that Herod gave to the ancient city of Sa-
maria when he rebuilt and fortified it, and convert-
ed the greater part of it into a citadel, and orna-
mented it with all sorts of decorations, and erected
in it a noble temple, which was illustrious, both on
account of its size and beauty, and which was in-
tended to exhibit to after-ages a specimen of his
taste and beneficence, and, therefore, he named it
Sebaste, which is but the Greek word for Augusta,
in honor of the Roman Emperor. The same his-
torian says, that it was twenty furlongs in circum-
ference, and that it was one day's journey from
Jerusalem. According to our rate of travelling it
3EBASTE. 413
Is sixteen hours, or about eight and forty miles;
but in both statements I think the historian correct.
The situation is extremely beautiful, and strong by
nature; more so, I think, than Jerusalem. It stands
on a fine large insulated hill, compassed all round
by a broad deep valley, and when fortified, as it is
stated to have been by Herod, one would have
imagined that, in the ancient system of warfare,
nothing but famine could have reduced such a
place. The valley is surrounded by four hills, one
on each side, which are cultivated in terraces up
to the top, sown with grain, and planted with fig
and olive trees, as is also the valley. The hill of
Samaria likewise rises in terraces to a height equal
to any of the adjoining mountains.
The present village is small and poor, and after
passing the valley the ascent to it is very steep;
but viewed from the station of our tents, is ex-
tremely interesting, both from its natural situation,
and from the picturesque remains of a ruined con-
vent of good Gothic architecture.
Having passed the village towards the middle of
the first terrace, there is a number of columns still
standing. I counted twelve in one row, besides
several that stood apart, the brotherless remains of
other rows. The situation is extremely delightful,
and my guide informed me that they belonged to the
serai, or palace. On the next terrace there are no
remains of solid building, but heaps of stone and
414 SEBASTE.
lime, and rubbish mixt with the soil in great pro*
fusion. Ascending to the third or highest terrace*
the traces of former building were not so numer-
ous, but we enjoyed a delightful view of the sur-
rounding country. The eye passed over the deep
valley that encompasses the hill of Sebaste, and
rested on the mountains beyond, that retreated as
they rose with a gentle slope, and met the view in
every direction, like a book laid out for perusal on
a reading desk. This was the seat of the capital of
the short-lived and wicked kingdom of Israel; and
on the face of these mountains the eye surveys the
scene of many bloody conflicts, and many memor-
able events. Here these holy men of God, Elijah
and Elisha, spoke their tremendous warnings in the
ears of their incorrigible rulers, and wrought their
miracles in the sight of all the people. On one or
other of these four mountains, on which the spec-
tator gazes with speechless inquiry, sat the perse-
cuted Elijah, who seemed for a time to be entrusted
with the fiery artillery of heaven, with which he
smote twice in succession the messengers of the
wicked Ahaziah, who were sent to take him: but
every admonition was ineffectual. The government
began in sin and idolatry, and continued in a course
of horrid deterioration through the successive reigns
of nineteen wicked kings, for the space of two hun-
dred and seventy years, when Samaria was finally
besieged and taken by Shalmanezer, the king of
SEBASTE.
Assyria, and Israel was carried away into Assyria,
and placed in Halah, and in Hobar, by the river
of Gozan, and in the cities of the Medes, and are
long since so completely forgotten, that there is
hardly a person living that can say with certainty
he is descended from any of the ten tribes of
Israel. The deportation of the ten tribes took place
seven hundred and nineteen years before Christ.
The latter Samaritans were a colony of Babylon-
ians and Cuthites, settled in the country of Samaria
by Ezarhaddon, the king of Assyria, and'were taught
by Manasses to worship the God of Israel, accord-
ing to the Mosaic ritual, because it was the only
way of serving the God of the land.
From this lofty eminence we descended to the
south side of the hill, where we saw the remains of
a stately colonnade that stretches along this beau-
tiful exposure from east to west. Sixty columns
are still standing in one row\ The shafts are plain,
and fragments of Ionic volutes that lie scattered
about, testify the order to which they belonged.
These are probably the relics of some of the mag-
nificent structures with which Herod the Great
adorned Samaria. None of the walls remain; but
I had only a very hurried and imperfect survey of
the ground; for the caravan was on its way, and
there was no time for minute examination. These
are not countries for the traveller to separate him-
self from the party to which he belongs, so that
416 JENIN,
having made the circuit of the ruins, I quitted the
interesting field, and pursued their track over the
mountain to the east of Sebaste, and came up with
them at a ruined building, which the natives called
Bet Amareen, near a small village of the same name,
beside a stream of water. Leaving this valley we
crossed the mountain to the left, and after travel-
ling about an hour along a very rough and stony
ravine, we came to the village of Gibba, which is
surrounded with olive and pomegranate trees, the
latter of which were in full blow, and occupies a
lofty station to overlook a small valley. From Gibba
we proceeded along the valley to Sannour, which
is a fort erected on an insolated mountain that
springs up in the middle of the valley. It is com-
monly called Gala Giurali, or Fort Jurali, from
Giurali, the name of the chief who commands the
country. A few miles further on we came to
Abata, a pleasant village on our right, and similarly
situated to Gibba, among olive and pomegranate
trees. The inhabitants are said to be particularly
hospitable and kind to strangers. We did not stop
to put their hospitality to the test, but continued
our route along the narrow dell, and having crossed
another mountain on the left, opened the beautiful
vale of Ezdraelon, and the town of Jenin, plea-
santly situated at the foot of the mountain. We
descended to a level piece of stony ground which
bore a tolerably good crop of thistles, and pitched
JENIN. 417
our tents on the outside of the town, having tra-
velled this day about eight hours and a half.
The town of Jenin contains about 800 inha-
bitants j but there are evidences of its having been
once of a much greater extent. There are the re-
mains of a Christian convent on the outside of the
walls, part of which is now occupied by a Turkish
cemetery. The ancient name of the town was
Ginoa, and it is mentioned as a frontier town be-
tween Galilee and Samaria, and, from its situation
on this side of the valley, I think probably belonged
to the latter. The inhabitants we found to possess,
in an eminent degree, the thievish character of an-
cient borderers. We had scarcely pitched our tents
when the Governor sent a messenger to inform us,
that if we had encampt within the walls of the
town, he would have protected us against the de-
predations of the natives, and been responsible for
our property; but since we had set down on the
outside, we must keep a good look out, and pro-
tect it ourselves. Roused by this warning-voice,
special instructions were given to plant the watch;
but next morning's experience convinced us that
the Arabs are much more expert in stealing than
in guarding the property of others. The theft was
committed in Lord Belmore's tent, from which, in
the course of the night, the plunderer contrived
to purloin a bag, containing clothes, and some En-
glish books, neither of which could be of any use
vol. 11. E E .
418 BISAN.
to him, and being of little value, were no great
loss to the rightful owner; but when it is considered
that this bag was stolen from the best-secured tent
in all our numbers, and from under the head of a
person who slept in it, the thief must be allowed
to have attained considerable proficiency in his art.
We resumed our journey next morning at half
past seven o'clock, and proceeded eastward along
the beautiful vale above mentioned. It is partially
cultivated, and abounds in rich natural pasture,
which the sun had not yet scorched and burnt up,
as it had done the greater part of the vegetation on
the hills that we passed in coming from Jerusalem.
It is watered by a fertilizing stream, which we
crossed and recrossed several times in our march.
In four hours after leaving Jenin, we came to the
source, where it issues in a large current from the
rock, and is called El Geleed, or the Cold. From
this we continued our route; and in two hours
more came to Bisan. The delightful vale of Es-
draelon is but thinly inhabited, and not half cul-
tivated or stocked with cattle; we did hot pass a
single village, and saw but few Bedoween encamp-
ments till we came near to Bisan. As we ap.
proached this miserable village we gradually with-
drew from the vale, and got upon an elevated rocky
flat, covered with a thin and meagre sprinkling of
earth; the vegetation which it bore was scanty,
and quite brown, from the lack of moisture. The
B ISA NT. 419
valley of the Jordan began to open on our view;
and, before we came up to the village, we passed
the remains of a Roman fortress and a Roman
theatre, with many vaults and columns, on the left
of our route. Having passed the village, we pitched
our tents on a dry barren piece of ground a little
to the east of it.
Here we expected to have met the Arab shiekh
whom the noble traveller had engaged at Jerusa-
lem to conduct us to Jerash, or Giorash, beyond
the Jordan, where our friends Mr. Bankes, Captain
Mangles, and Captain Irby, who had visited it, in-
formed us there were many interesting remains of
Roman architecture in a very perfect state. We
were two days later in reaching Bisan than the time
agreed upon; but to prevent any mistake arising
from the delay, the interpreter was sent to meet
him at the appointed time, and to engage him to
wait for us. The shiekh, however, failed to ap-
pear, and we concluded that he had found it im-
possible to accomplish what he had undertaken to
do. Our next expedient was to send for the
Emir, or chief of the Arabs of Bisan, who imme-
dately waited upon us, arrayed in his black abba,
and yellow boots, and all the tawdry importance
of his rank. This gentleman informed us that we
could not proceed to Jerash without having pre-
viously obtained the permission of the Ben Issacher
Arabs, who were in possession of these parts, and
E E 2
420 BISAN.
were a very powerful tribe; but if the noble tra-
veller chose to tarry at Bisan, he politely offered
to send a messenger to the chief of these Arabs,
who, for a stipulated sum, would send four of his
men to conduct the whole party to Jerash and bajck
again; that the messenger would take two days to
go and two days to return; and that we should be
an equal number of days in performing the journey,
which, with the time that must necessarily be em-
ployed in examining the ruins, would have occa-
sioned a delay of ten days, in place of five, which
we had calculated upon; this was more than we
could afford, and our expedition to Jerash was ac-
cordingly abandoned.
On asking him the character of his own tribe,
and with what security we could pass the night
where we were, the Emir informed us that as to
our lives, they were perfectly safe, and that nothing
would be taken from us by violence; but that the
natives would certainly plunder us if they could
with impunity; which was rather more favorable
intelligence than we were prepared to receive, from
the villanous aspects of the horrid-looking crew by
whom we were surrounded.
Last night's experience had taught us not to put
much confidence in the vigilance of our Syrian
guards, therefore the watch of the encampment
for that night was consigned to two English sailors,
and two English servants, who accompanied us.
BISAN. 421
They relieved each other in pairs, and at stated
periods called out, 'all's well/ to inform each
other of the safety of their respective quarters.
Twice in the course of the night, the shiekh of
the village, a young man of apparently amiable dis-
positions, made his appearance, and surveyed the
camp at a distance; this was imputed to his anxiety
for our security, and not to any wish to seize an
opportunity of doing us mischief. Thank God,
next morning's sun found us all safe and sound,
without having experienced the least alarm.
Of the young shiekh of Bisan I must beg leave
to say a word, He appeared to possess a mind
greatly above the society in which he moved; a
mild tempered and tractable youth; but his luck-
less stars had cast his lot among the veriest mis-
creants of that miscreant quarter of the globe. I
never in my life saw the human countenance so be-
devilled as in the fiend-like looks of the inhabitants
of Bisan. Sodom and Gomorrah never exhibited
any thing of a more blighted or hellish hue. The
shiekh was about eighteen years of age, and con-
sequently too young to exercise that influence over
his followers which his rank and circumstances en-
titled him to do. His principal adviser seemed a
most wicked and artful man, whose looks were not
improved by having one of his eyes tied up, which
had nearly been knocked out in a marauding scuffle
in which he had been engaged a few nights before.
The whole of his attendants, with the shiekh at
42.2 BISAN.
their head, walked into our tent while we were sit-
ting and enjoying ourselves after dinner, and,
without any reserve, tasted of our wine. The ugly
cyclops who assumed the lead, drank but little of
it himself, but seemed fully resolved to intoxicate -
one of his companions, for whom he poured but
glass after glass, which, in the rudest and most un-
cultivated manner, he insisted on his drinking*
The end of the wine, however, and the arrival of
pipes and coffee frustrated his intentions.
A conversation was reported to us by the inter-
preter, which he had overheard among the natives
shortly after our arrival, on the very agreeable
question, whether it would, or would not, be jus-
tifiable to put us all to death, and take possession
of our property \ it was carried, that they did not
think it would be right to put us to death j but
that there would be no great harm in taking our
property if they could. What a horrid state of
society does this exhibit!
The village of Bisan is just like what a nest of
ruffians might be expected to be: a collection of
the most miserable hovels, containing about 200
inhabitants, and, in looking at their wretched ac-
commodation, and a Bedoween encampment that
was spread out at a little distance in the valley, we
were not surprized to hear that in these countries
the dwellers in tents look on the dwellers in towns
as an inferior class of beings.
Bisan, which the Greeks and Romans called
IUSAN. 423
Scythopolis, and which is known in Scripture by
the name of Bethsan, is mentioned in the 17th
chapter of Joshua as one of the towns which Ma-
nasseh had in Issachar. It is also mentioned in
the 31st chapter of the first book of Samuel, as
the town where the Philistines fastened Saul's body
to the wall after the battle in Mount Gilboa, in
which he was slain: "The beauty of Israel is slain
on thy high places; how are the mighty fallen!
Tell it not in Gath; publish it not in the streets
of Askelon." See the whole of this beautiful and
eloquent apostrophe in the first chapter of the se-
cond book of Samuel. It is also supposed to be the
Nyssa in Arabia, where Osiris and Isis were buried.
It is quite remarkable how many places, both in
Egypt, and throughout Palestine, retain their an-
cient names, notwithstanding the attempts of their
Greek and Roman conquerors to change them.
We have seen Askelon, Ashdod, Joppa, Jerusa-
lem, Hebron, Samaria, Bisan, or Bethsan, and I
should have little doubt, upon a minute investi-
gation, of finding most of the principal places
mentioned in the sacred writings. The reason of
this is, that though conquered, the language of the
country has never been changed. Throughout the
whole period of its history it has been Hebrew or
Arabic, which are but dialects of the same lan-
guage ; and though the Greeks and Romans trans-
lated the topographical names into their own lan-
guage, and wrote them in their books, yet these
424 MOUNT GItBOA.
names never became general in the language of
the country.
We found the weather much hotter at Bisan than
in any other part of Judea- The vegetation around
was quite burnt up, and the grain over-ripe. It is
within two miles of the river Jordan; we had an
extensive view of the valley and the mountain re-
gion beyond the river; but the stream itself was
concealed by its banks, and we could nowhere ob-
tain a view of it from Bisan. Masses of ejected
lava lay scattered around the village, and the moun-
tains had much the appearance of extinguished
volcanoes.
On the morning of the 12th, instead of crossing
the Jordan for Jerash, we left this abominable sink
of dirt and iniquity, and pursued our route up the
delightful plain of the Jordan for Tiberias. As we
passed out from the village we found the people
engaged in reaping an over-ripe crop of barley. To
those who have seen the despatch of a Scotch or an
English harvest, the sight of one or two reapers in
a large field of ripe grain, is like poverty grinning
in the face of abundance, with permission to help
herself Without the ability of doing it.
Mount Gilboa comes close to Bisan and bounds
the road on the left. The natives still call it Gibl
Gilbo, or mount Gilbo; it is about 800 feet above
the level of the road, and probably about 1000
feet above the level of the Jordan; perhaps 1200
feet above the level of the sea. It is a lengthened
TliE JORDAN. 425
ridge rising up in peaks, and bounding the plain of
the Jordan on the west; it bears a little withered
grass and a few scanty shrubs scattered about in
different places. The plain of the Jordan, which
stretches down on the right is extremely beautiful,
"well watered, even as the garden of the Lord,
like the land of Egypt," and well cultivated with
rich crops of barley, the greater part of which was
over-ripe. On the east the Jordan is bounded by a
high mountain range, which is part of Mount
Gilead that retreats from it by a hilly foreground,
so that the prospect is extremely interesting. After
a ride of about nearly three hours, we came close
to the river, which was the first time that we got a
sight of the waters of the Jordan, at a large khan,"
built for the accommodation of travellers, who pass
to Damascus, through Decapolis and Mount Gi-
lead. There is here a large stone bridge over the
Jordan, which we merely crossed and recrossed;
it consists of one large and two small arches; the
river has a considerable depth of water, which it
rolls over a very stony bed; it is of a white sul-
phureous color, without any unpleasant smell or
taste, and is between thirty and forty feet wide. A
little higher up we came to a place where the stream
was smoother and the bottom more practicable, and
we stopped to bathe; some of the party merely
washed their hands, others their feet, and some
bathed entirely j some of the muleteers washed
4£6 TIBERIAS.
their handkerchiefs, some their night-caps, some
their shirts, all of which they carefully bundled
up and carried away to wrap the body when the
soul had left it for another habitation. A little
higher up we passed Mount Gilboa, and continued
travelling with the Jordan still in sight, but the
valley much narrower than before, and after a ride
of eight hours we arrived at the lake of Genne-
sareth, sea of Tiberias, or sea of Galilee, as it is
sometimes called. It is a large fresh water lake
about twelve miles long and six miles broad; three
separate streams run out from it which soon unite,
and reform the Jordan, which, for a time had been
lost in the waters of the lake.
At Tiberias we found the Pasha of Acre en-
campt with a numerous retinue near the hot baths,
which he was using by the advice of a medical
attendant who was a frank. -At a little distance
from him the Lady Hester Stanhope had taken up
her residence in a mosque. We passed both en-
campments, and pitched our tents on the least
thistly piece of ground we could find, on the slop-
ing side of the hill, opposite to the city, at a short
distance from the station of the Lady Hester
Stanhope.
We remained the whole of the 13th at Tiberias:
the walls of this town are good and imposing, but
the town itself is miserable, and one fourth of the
space within the walls is unoccupied by house or
TIBERIAS. 427
building \ I allude to the upper part of the inclo-
sure and down near the lake, and indeed all over
the town we find prodigious numbers of ruined
houses. There are few Christians in Tiberias, and
consequently little art and less industry. I had
broken the mouth-piece of my pipe at Bisan, and
could not find in all Tiberias a person who could
make a tube for it, yet every person here, both men
and women, smoke.
There are many Turks and a still greater num-
ber of Jews in Tiberias. A respectable looking
rich Jew passes himself off as European consul,
though by whom constituted, or for what purpose,
I cannot say. 'However he thought proper this
morning to pay his respects to the Pasha, dressed
in the European costume; he wore a scarlet coat
and cocked hat, tight small clothes, silk stockings,
shoes and buckles j. he rode upon an ass, and car-
ried a cochlico umbrella above his head. He is
a thin meagre old man between seventy and eighty
years of age; his appearance was abundantly gro-
tesque and highly amusing to all the spectators.
There is a college of Jews in Tiberias, where I
found six Rabbis engaged in studying Hebrew
folios; they occupied two large rooms, which were
surrounded with books, and said they spent their
time entirely in studying the scriptures and com-
mentaries thereon. I regretted much that I had
not been apprized of this institution at an earlier
428 TIBERIAS
part of the day, and not having an interpreter witfr
me I could not turn my short interview to the
same advantage that I should otherwise have done.
Tiberias was the ancient seat of Jewish literature,
and there is no institution in Palestine that I
should more anxiously wish to be informed about
than the history of this school; whether it is a re-
cent establishment, or if it has continued down from
the taking of Jerusalem by Titus, uninterruptedly
to the present time. If they have kept faithful
records of this dark period of their eventful history,
the publication of them would be invaluable: I
know nothing in ecclesiastical history that could
equal them, if it were not the secret history of the
church in Palestine, during the first twelve hundred
years. What materials may remain for this in
Rome or Constantinople, Armenia or Babylonia,
or other parts of the Eastern world, it is not for
me to say; but it is earnestly wished that the godly
men who are traversing these countries with re-
ligious views, may search them out and give them
to the world. There is a good synagogue in Ti-
berias. The bazars are remarkably poor, and po-
verty seems to be the general disease of the in-
habitants.
In the north side of the town, near the lake
there is a Greek church, which is a good substantial
building, and bears much the character of those
sacred edifices, which were erected by the pious
LiVKE OF GENESARETH. 429
Helena. It is said to occupy the identical spot
on which stood the house of the Apostle Peter,
who, previous to his being a disciple of Christ,
was a fisher in this celebrated lake. There are
but few fish in the lake now, but one of the natives
informed me that there is a regular ebb and flow
of the tide, a phenomenon of which I saw no sym-
ptoms, and which I am not disposed to believe
without further proof.
On stepping without the gate I saw two boats
which would have reminded me, if any monitory
had been necessary, that this is the lake on which
the Apostles exercised their humble occupation of
fishermen, when, called by their divine Master, they
left their all and followed him to become fishers of
men. This is the scene of our Savior's early re-
sort; here he walked upon the waters, here he
rebuked the wind and the sea, and they were still j
here he cast out devils, cured all manner of diseases,
and performed many wonderful works. What
Christian can look unmoved on such a scene?
In the evening we received a visit from the
Lady Hester Stanhope. This was the only time
that we had the pleasure of meeting this extraor-
dinary woman. We had more than once profitted
by her kind offices and good word, and her polite
and enlightened conversation made us regret that
we had had so little opportunity of benefitting by
her society. Her great talents and almost universal
acquaintance all over the Levant, together with her
4<30 LADY HESTER STANHOPE.
condescending and pleasant address, render her
name of the first consequence to the oriental tra-
veller. Her ladyship's usual residence is at Mar
Elias in Mount Lebanon; the house was formerly
a Greek convent, but the noble resident has formed
it into a very comfortable habitation. After Mid-
summer, when the weather becomes warm, she
usually retires higher up the mountains, and lives
in her tent among the Druses in the neighborhood
of Dair el Gamr, the residence of their prince
Bushir. Her ladyship was dressed in the costume
of a Turkish nobleman. It is impossible for a
female to travel in those countries and mix in
society in any other dress; and it resembles so
much the lady's riding habit in this country, that
there is nothing improper or indelicate in its ap-
pearance. She receives visiters in the same manner
-with any Turk or Arab of distinction, and enter-
tains them with the same fare of sherbet, coffee,
and tobacco. No person can be more respected
or esteemed than this noble lady is throughout the
Levant j but she has no concern whatever in the
government of any part of the country, as has
frequently been represented in England, nor does
she even so much as speak the language of the
country, either Turkish or Arabic, but is always
attended by an interpreter. She looked remark-
ably pale, but I believe was in tolerably good health,
and conversed in a cheerful and sprightly manner.
In the evening the Earl of Bel-more and myself,
VISIT TO THE PASHA. 431
paid a visit to the Pasha, who, as I have already
mentioned, was encampt near the hot spring. We
arrived at the time of his evening meal, and were
ushered into the tent as soon as that was finished;
we saw a venerable looking old man, with a long
flowing white beard; he was seated on a rich sofa
in the middle of the tent, and, in a very warm and
unaffected manner, invited us to sit down beside
him on his right hand. A numerous train of at-
tendants stood before him on the ground, for the
floor of the tent was not covered with mats or
carpets, but, in order to keep down the dust, and
produce an agreeable cool, it had been frequently
watered, and from his crowding votaries was potched
and guttered like a cattle market in wet weather.
On our entrance he affected an air of pleasantry
and cheerfulness, talked to the noble traveller of
his extensive tour, and of his change of costume;
but from the infirm state of his health, soon felt
more inclined to talk about physic than politics, or
any thing that related to the country over which
he presided. This respectable viceroy, very un-
like his butchering predecessor, bears the cha-
racter of a humane and good man, and nothing
could exceed the respect which was shown him by
his attendants. The tent was large, but possessed
nothing of particular grandeur or magnificence
for the viceroy of Palestine, and in any situation
to be the constant slave of coffee, tobacco, and
432 TIBERIAS.
gossip is quite sufficient to disgust and sicken any
man. I visited him again before my departure on
the following morning at sun-rise, and found him
broiling in the hot bath, the virtues of which he
believed to be more efficacious at sun-rise than at
any other time of the day. I saw him for a few
minutes after he had left the bath, and after a short
conversation with his medical adviser, who. had
learned all his physic in the capacity of a domestic
to a Piedmontese apothecary, returned to our en-
campment, which I found breaking up and nearly
ready to resume the journey. His Highness sent
two of his officers after me to the tent of the Lady
Hester Stanhope, to invest me with an elegant
pelisse for the advice I had given him; but finding
that I had not gone thither, they carried it back
to the wardrobe of their master.
Tiberias was anciently one of the principal towns
of Galilee. It was built by Herod the Great, and
named after the Roman Emperor, with whom he
was a distinguished favorite. Near to it at the hot
baths formerly stood a village named^Emmaus, the
foundations of which still remain to the east of the
baths. Not having any thermometer I could not
ascertain the temperature of the spring, but it is so
hot that the hand could not support it, and the
water must remain twelve hours in the bath before
it can be used, and then I should consider it above
1006. It contains a strong solution of common
TIBERIAS.
433
salt, with a considerable intermixture of iron and
sulphur, and is much resorted to as a cure for every
complaint.
About eight o'clock on the morning of the 14th
we left Tiberias and set out for Nazareth. All
around the town, and by the baths, the air was ex-
tremely sultry and oppressive; but as we ascended
the hill it became cool, and the vegetation assumed
a more healthy and verdant hue. Our route lay
through a very hilly country; but the soil was deep
and of a good quality, producing excellent pasture
which was but poorly stocked with cattle. In about
an hour and a half we passed the place where,
as we were informed, Christ having taken compas-
sion on the multitude, healed their sick, and fed
them to the number of about five thousand, besides
women and children, with five loaves and two fishes.
A large black stone is still shown on which he sat.
In about an hour and a half further we passed
Mount-Hermon and Mount Tabor at a considerable
distance on our left. The latter is a dark looking
insulated conical mountain, rising like a tower to
a considerable height above those around it. Ad-
vancing a little further we came to a well of ex-
cellent water which we found extremely refreshing
after the tepid waters of Gennesaret. After this
the country became better inhabited, and wre passed
several comfortable villages with considerable cul-
tivation on the hills and valleys around them, and
VOL, II. P F
434 CANA OF GALILEE.
in about five hours and a half from Tiberias reached
Couvercane or Cane Galil; it receives both names
in the country, and is the Cana of Galilee where
Christ performed his first miracle of turning water
into wine. Here in a small Greek church we were
shown an old stone pot made of the common com-
pact limestone of the country, which the hierophant
informed us is one of the original pots that con-
tained the water which underwent this miraculous
chahge. It is quite exposed and unprotected in
the church, has sustained considerable injury, and
has a very old appearance. Cana of Galilee con-
tains about three hundred inhabitants, and is plea-
santly situated on the descent of the hill looking
towards the south-west. Leaving Cana of Galilee,
we continued our march over hill and dale, and
in about an hour and a half descended into the
delightful vale of Nazareth. The vale resem-
bles a circular basin encompassed by mountains;
it seems as if fifteen mountains met to form an
enclosure for this delightful spot, they rise round
it like the edge of a shell to guard it from intru-
sion. It is a rich and beautiful field in the midst
of barren mountains; it abounds in fig-trees, small
gardens, and hedges of the prickly pear, and the
dense rich grass affords an abundant pasture. The
village stands on an elevated situation on the west
side of the valjey, and contains between six and
seven hundred inhabitants. The convent stands
NAZARETH.
4S£
at the east end of the village and is built upon the
high ground, just where the rocky surface joins
the valley. The church of the convent, which is
called the church of the incarnation, is built on
the spot where the angel Gabriel saluted the Virgin
Mary, with the joyful tidings of salvation, "Hail!
Mary, highly favored, the Lord is with thee, blessed
art thou among women, thou shalt conceive and
bring forth a son and shalt call his name Jesus, he
shall be great and shall be called the son of the
highest, and the Lord God shall give unto him the
throne of his father David, and he shall reign over
the house of Jacob for ever, and of his kingdom
there shall be no end." The columns and all the
interior of the church are hung round with da-
mask silk which gives it a warm and rich appear-
ance. It contains the house of Joseph and Mary,
the length of which is not quite the breadth of the
church, though it forms the principal part of it
from containing the principal altar, which is over
a low cave where Mary was sitting when the angel
saluted her as the mother of the Messiah. In
front of it are two granite columns which were
erected by the pious Helena, and intended to re-
present the dimensions of the angel who delivered
the heavenly message. Another account says that
one column is intended to record the place where
the angel stood when he delivered the annun-
ciation, and the other where Mary stood or sat
f f 2
43(5
NAZARETH,
when she heard it. The innermost column k in-
tended to represent the Virgin Mary; and either
accident or design has made it the subject of a
miracle. The column has been broken through
above the pedestal, and the fractured portion is
removed, yet the upper part of the column does
not descend but remains suspended in the air. It
has evidently no support below, and the hierophant
protests that it has none above: it is therefore a
true and astonishing miracle to be seen every day
in the year. Methinks it would add considerably
to the amazing strength of the miracle, if all con-
nexion between the upper end of the column and
the ceiling were destroyed; then people would not
only hear with their ears, but actually see with
their eyes that this column is really poised in the
air, as it is reported to be, by some supernatural
and invisible agency.
There is no occasion for human contrivance to
be exerted in the production of Divine miracles.
The efficient cause of their appearance resides in a
world far removed from human agency, and from
human sight; and in their exhibition every contact
with human workmanship should be avoided as the
worst species of contamination, tending to furnish
a pretext for imposture, to throw doubt and dis-
belief upon the whole. For there is nothing more
miraculous in a column that is firmly secured, and
supported by the top, not falling to the ground,
NAZARETH. 437
than there is in a balance or a bell-rope remaining
in suspension; but, in the present instance, if all
connexion with the ceiling were removed, and the
column still remained suspended in the air, the
miracle would then be obvious to all the world that
chose to look at it, and no man in his senses could
deny or doubt that it really was, what it is said to
be, supported by the agency of heaven.
Can the sensible members of the church of Rome
really know, believe, and permit such blasphemy to
mingle itself with their institutions, or the policy of
a Christian church? And for what purpose? Cer-
tainly not for the salvation of souls, which is the
object of Christianity: but that mankind may be
gulled and fleeced of their money to support im-
position, and a crafty priesthood to lie in the face
of heaven. People err prodigiously in considering
the establishment of a church as Christianity itself;
the two are as different as the setting is from the
diamond, or the atmosphere, through which we be-
hold it, is from the resplendent sun in the firma-
ment of heaven. Christianity is perfect, as it de-
scended from God the author and the finisher of
pur faith. Its tendency is to reconcile our apostate
race to an offended Deity, and uniting all mankind
in the bonds of harmony and brotherly love, to
cover the earth with the glory of the Lord, as at
the first, when the morning stars sang together, and
all the jsons of God shouted for joy. It is of no
438 NAZARETH*
sect, it is neither Patriarchal, nor Papal, nor Epis^
copalian, nor Presbyterian. It is the universal re-
medy applied by God for the recovery and cure of
the whole human race from the poisonous malignity
and contamination of sin; and every one that re-
ceives Christ, as he is offered in the gospel, and hopes
for salvation through him, is a member of the church
of Christ upon earth, whatever any congregated so-
ciety may say to the contrary. This is the true Ca-
tholic church; but it is not the church of Rome or
Constantinople. It is founded in truth, and is to be
supported by men and measures actuated by the spirit
of truth; and it is the duty of every man to cling
to it, and offer himself a willing shield to protect it
from the shafts of error. Let no poison mingle in
the cup of salvation. Human establishments are
necessary to provide religious instruction for the
different nations and countries of the earth, and to
fill the churches with individuals properly qualified
for expounding the sacred oracles of truth. I prize
above all others the religious establishment to which
I belong; other men have an equal right to do the
same ; but what share ought delusion or imposture
to have in religious establishments? Certainly none.
On the contrary, it is the duty of ministers to keep
pure and unsullied the heavenly trust that is com-
mitted to their charge in the scriptures of truth;
and whenever craft and imposture are found to
mingle in the policy of any church, it may be said
NAZARETH. 439
of it that the leaders are blind and corrupted guides,
and that for worldly gain and aggrandisement they
have departed from the spirit of their religion, and
cast the bible behind their backs. With the de-
moralization of the pastors will come the demoral-
ization of the flock. Priests may talk of miracles
performed, of columns suspended in, and houses
flying through, the air; of hard blood melting at
the touch of a dry bone, and may kiss the scala
santa, and carry an old man in a crazy chair round
the walls of the city every year to keep out the
devil; they may talk about pilgrimages and indul-
gences, back-bones and shoulder-blades, trouts and
lobsters, saints and processions, these are but the
flags, drums, and trumpets of mountebanks and
swindlers; they are no more Christianity than the
gutter in which he treads is the etherial spirit of
the man whose foot it receives; but a farrago of
idle tales and paltry devices invented to supplant
the word of God, and to starve the spirit of man
in the bosom of plenty; to amuse the ignorant with
the traffic of eternity, of which they ought to be
ashamed, and which both Greeks and Romans
themselves must see forms no part of the Christian
religion, and which, as Christians, it is their duty
to renounce and abolish. The opposition of all
good men is, directed against the wilful and inter-
ested practice of delusion, humbug, and imposture,
andtaot against any opinion that churches or indi-
-140 NAZARETH*
Viduals may choose to entertain on a few intricate
subjects that are far above the grasp of the pro-
foundest intellect to unravel. It is a Christian and
not a sectarian cause that they advocate, and will
continue to advocate till the -Christians obtain
Christianity from their clergy, and the abetters and
supporters of delusion are brought back to the
knowledge and practice of the truth, as it is reveal-
ed in God's holy word.
* Up stairs, above the chapel of the incarnation, we
were shown another grotto, which was called the
Virgin Mary's kitchen, and a black smoked place
in the corner which was called the Virgin Mary's
chimney, I believe none of the cinders, fire-irons*
oi\ culinary implements have been preserved; these
probably fled with the Santa Casa, or holy house, to
Loretto, and our only astonishment is, that the house
should have taken flight and left the chimney and
kitchen behind.
All round the edge of the rock many grottoes open
into the valley. These were probably the abodes of
pious hermits in the early ages of Christianity, whose
fond devotion attached them to the sacred spot.
They are now tenantless and unappropriated; but
afford convenient shelter from the rays of the sun,
or for children to carry on their amusement. It is
impossible to observe the children engaged here in
their diversions, without being forcibly reminded
that here our Savior was brought up, on that moun-
NAZARETH, 441
tain he trod, of that well he drank, on that green
he sported with his cotemporaries, who knew not
what he was till he came to be about thirty years
of age, when he entered upon his ministry, and be-
gan to publish abroad the reason for which he had
come into the world.
There are many Christians in Nazareth, who are
a civil and industrious class of people, and the vil-
lage is many thousand times better provided with
every necessary and convenience of life than Ti-
berias. The convent is a comfortable habitation.
Close to it there is accommodation for ladies. Here
We left Mrs. Belzoni, who had accompanied us all
the way from Jerusalem in her tour through the
Holy Land. We found the holy fathers extremely
civil, and had we not been provided with the pre-
ferable accommodation of tents, I have no doubt
that they would have done every thing in their
power to make us comfortable.
About a mile and a half from Nazareth is the
mount of precipitation alluded to in the 29th verse
of the fourth chapter of Luke j but we did not visit
it, nor Mount Tabor, the mountain of beatitudes,
which is three hours distant. A small range of moun-
tains separates Nazareth from the vale of Ezdraelon.
Next morning, Friday, the 15th of May, we were
preparing to set off at our usual hour; but when
orders were given to load the mules, the muleteers,
who were Christians, refused to obey, and insisted
442
MAGORA.
on remaining all that day at Nazareth. An appeal
to the governor of the village soon restored the dis-
cipline of the corps. Three of them were bastina-
doed, and the rest became all obedience. It was
perfectly astonishing with what alacrity they return-
ed from their chastisement, and having loaded the
mules, resumed their journey.
For nearly four hours after setting out we re-
traced our steps on the road to Tiberias, till coming
opposite to Mount Tabor we struck off to the left,
at a place where there was no road, indeed scarcely
a track perceptible. We passed a long and tedious
hill, at the bottom of which we entered a beautiful
valley, which, from appearances, we expected to
have found in a cultivated state; but it was with-
out a house, and overgrown with weeds and bram-
bles. Part of it had been ploughed the year before,
but suffered to remain uncropt* Despotism or death
alike intercept the labors of the husbandman. Hav-
ing cleared this solitary vale, we ascended another
hill, and travelled on for about four hours from the
time that we left the road to Tiberias, and came in
sight of a large village called Magara, occupying
an eminent station on the side of a hill. Consider-
ably down the hill is a copious spring of excellent
water, from Avhich the village is supplied by the
labors of the females, who here, as well as in Egypt,
are the water-carriers for the other sex. Near to
the spring there is another village called Mensura,
MENSURA. 443
thither we directed our steps through a sort of
copsewood, and an extensive plantation of olive
trees that concealed it from our view, and here we
pitched our tents for the night on a piece of plough-
ed ground on the terraced edge of the hill, over-
looking a beautiful undulating vale, planted with
olive trees, stretching out all the way to the lake of
Genesareth, of which our position also commanded
a delightful prospect.
Next morning, May the 16th, we rose at four
o'clock, and resumed our journey at six. We
wound our way slowly down the hill, and regained
the road in the plain, which we had left the night
before to pitch our tents at a convenient watering
place. As we passed through the olive plantation,
two of the natives came up to us asking for charity.
We replied to their demands by inquiring if they
knew such a place as Capernaum. They immedi-
ately rejoined, "Cavemahum wa Chorosi," they are
quite near, but in ruins* We did not pass within
sight of them, and without stopping to make any
further inquiry, pursued our route over a pictu-
resque country of hill and dale, covered with copse-
wood and long grass. Having cleared the intricate
defiles of this part of the country, in which we only
passed two small streams, one of which was called
Leiman, both ran towards the lake of Genesareth,
we got upon an extensive open field, which bore
an abundant crop of thistles, and on which several
444 GIB YOiySOUFF.
herds of black cattle were feeding, attended by
their keepers. This, by some, is supposed to have
been the scene of the infamous conspiracy, of which
the liberty of Joseph was the temporary victim. A
little further on we arrived at Gib Yousouff, or the
pit into which Joseph was cast by his brethren,
being a ride of three hours and forty minutes from
Mensura. Here there is a large khan for the ac-
commodation of travellers, and a well of excellent
water, and a very comfortable oratory for a mus-
sulman to pray in.
This is a long way from Hebron for the sons of
Jacob to go to feed their herds, and a still further
way for a solitary youth like Joseph to be sent by
his father in quest of them. They had, first of all,
gone to Shechem, which is about two days and a
half from Hebron, and appears to have been the
predecessor of Nablous. Mention is made of it
very early in the history of Abraham: "And he
passed through the land unto the place of Sichem."
It lay in the route then as well as now from Horan
to Egypt. This pit, or Dothan, is nearly about
the same distance from Shechem that Shechem is
from Hebron; namely, about two days' and a half
or three days' journey. The ancient patriarchs pas-
tured their flocks and herds along the whole of this
tract, and by Bethel, and Ai, which lies to the
south [of Shechem, and I should consider it not
at all improbable that Gib Yousouff may really have
CIB YOUSOUFF. 445
been the scene of the infamous transaction above
alluded to, though I believe its present name is
from a chief of Saracenic celebrity. It is likewise
situated on one of the principal roads from Mount
Gilead, from which the Ishmaelites were travelling
with their camels, bearing spicery, and balm, and
myrrh, going to carry it down into Egypt, and
they bought Joseph for 20 pieces of silver, and
carried him along with them.
Having drank of the water of the well we resumed
our march, which lay once more along the venerable
banks of the river Jordan, over a fine undulating
plain amply covered with weeds and thistles; but the
ground is susceptible of any species of cultivation. A
little above Gib Yousouff the road turns off for Ja-
cob's bridge, which is the most direct road for Da-
mascus-; but we preferred the agreeable route of
the Jordan, wishing to trace that celebrated river to
its source. During the whole of its course, the
Jordan is bounded by a chain of mountains on each
side. On the east they rise up almost precipitously
from the bed of the river. On the west there is a
fine fertile vale, averaging about half, or three
quarters of a mile broad between the river and the
mountain; this does not apply to the lake of Gen-
nesaret, for there the mountains are close to the
lake on each side, with here and there a small beau-
tiful vale opening on the west. The mountains on
the east are bolder, and continue with little inter-
446 GEERSH.
fuption all the way. On the west side, along whicfa
we travelled, the interruptions are frequent, and
charming defiles, irrigated by small streams of water,
pass off, such as we have already mentioned to oc-
cur on the coast of Sicily.
Having cleared the plantations of thistles, we
came in a short time to a Bedoween encampment,
which consisted of 30 tents, spread out in a de-
lightful situation on our left. The ground around
was well cultivated, and the crops were excellent.
I never saw finer wheat or barley in my life than I
saw here in the plain of the Jordan. A little be-
low this the river passed through a small lake, which
at first sight, appeared to us to be a continuation
of the lake of Gennesaret; but when we obtained
a view of it from higher ground, we were satisfied
it was not. In some of the maps it is marked as
the lake Semechonites of Josephus, and the de-
scription is in some respects applicable to it; but
then it must not be considered as synonymous with
the bahr el Hoolya, which is a long way above Ja-
cob's bridge, and this is below it.
In about two hours after passing the Bedoween
encampment, we came to a mill, and a soap manu-
factory, situated at the source of a large stream,
which issued from the rock nearly as broad as the
Jordan, but not so deep \ it is called Geersh; the
houses of the village were pavilion-roofed, and not
flat as in Egypt and Palestine. It was our inten-
YALLAHE. 447
tion to have stopt here for the night, but the in-
habitants of both sexes seemed a licentious, dis-
orderly people, so we continued our route for
nearly an hour longer through the same rich cul-
tivated fields \ and, having passed the top of an-
other large stream, pitched our tents on the sloping
bank near the village of Yallahe; this seemed to
be only a temporary village; the houses were con-
structed of fascines, or bundles of reeds tied to-
gether, and probably was only a summer residence,
for, during the rainy season, the greater part of
the plain would be inundated with water. Fine
berds of black cattle wTere roaming, and feeding
round; but not a bit of meat of any kind could
be purchased, excepting some old kids.
We had scarcely pitched our tents when we were
informed of the arrival of tax-gatherers from Ja-
cob's bridge, who, on seeing us continue our route
up the Jordan, and not cross the bridge, which is
the usual way for travellers going to Damascus,
had imagined that we did so in order to avoid pay-
ing the caphar, which is levied from all Christian
travellers at this place; and, determined that this
subterfuge should not avail us, they pursued us the
whole way thither, a distance of about five hours,
to exact the tribute which might perhaps have
amounted to about twenty shillings, and their tra-
velling expenses besides, which, with their trouble,
they might have charged at half that sum. It is
448 YALLAHE.
inconceivable with what eagerness they made up
and preferred their demand, believing they had
caught a delinquent whom they had it in their
power to fleece; but how mortified and chap-fallen
they looked when they were told the party was
English, and paid no caphar. We laughed at their
eagerness, and their bootless errand; and seeing
they could not better themselves, they twisted their
faces into a smile, and went off apparently in good
humor, though it must be allowed that the vil-
lagers seemed to relish the joke quite as much as
the tax-gatherers.
Next morning, the 17th, we resumed our jour-
ney at half past six o'clock. We are now near the
head of the beautiful vale of the Jordan. The high
mountains still continue to bound it on each side,
and the still loftier Busia unites them at its termi-
nation, looking from his throne "the snow-crowned
monarch of the vale." We had seen the snow-clad
summit of this elevated mountain at intervals in the
course of the preceding day, and could hardly con-
vince ourselves that our eyes were correct in report-
ing it crowned with snow ; but now we have certain
evidence of the fact; and as the mist retired from
the mountain tops, and the morning sun lighted up
the scene fresh from the dews of night, we were
delighted with contemplating it.
Having travelled for an hour and twenty minutes,
we left the common track, and gave directions to
FIL EL KATHKE. 449
the caravan to proceed, and after the usual day's
march to choose an encampment, and wait our
arrival. We then held our way through the edge
of the watery plain, which, from the numerous in-
tersecting ditches and streamlets, seemed as if at-
tempts were making to render it cultivateable by
drainage. The only crop, however, which it bore
was thistles, and these were in great abundance,
and so strong and gigantic of their kind, that they
reached up to our saddles and annoyed us exces-
sively. Having cleared the plain we got upon the
higher ground, and came to a village, built of
bundles of reeds, like Yallahe. Here w^e were sa-
luted by the shiekh, a spruce little gentleman, who
was armed with pistols, and strutted about with all
the consequence of a mountain chief; he offered
us no interruption, but said we were welcome to
go and visit the meeting of the waters. A little
higher up we crossed a stone bridge with five
arches, built over a considerable river, which
brawled its way over a rough and stony bed down
to the lake. A well cut stone bearing an Arabic
inscription that had originally belonged to the
bridge, was tumbled off it and lay down on the bank
of the river. Having crossed the bridge, we de-
scended in a southerly direction, crossed another
stream, and alighted at Fil el Kathre under the
shade of a spreading oak. To escape from the
rays of a scorching sun into an embowering shade
VOL. II. g G
450 FIL EL KATHRE.
is at all times a welcome transition. But there
was something peculiarly congenial to our feelings
in the air of this sequestered spot. The traces of
former improvement around showed that art had
once lent its aid to improve the natural capabilities
of the place. Here the stream was taught to flow,
the tree to vegetate, and the mound to rise, ac-
cording to the taste of its lordly possessor. From
the top of the mound, to which we ascended by a
well-formed road, we enjoyed an extensive and
delightful view that embraced the whole of the
bahr el Hoolya, or lake, formed by the confluence of
innumerable mountain streams, the meadowy plain
and hills, by which it is surrounded. On the top
of the mound are four stone huts comfortable for
these parts; they are the winter residence of as many
native families who were then enjoying themselves
in their tents, or straw-built huts, in some other
part of. their possessions. The huts are flat-roofed,
and the situation is peculiarly dry and delightful.
The mount is named Fil el Kathre; the lake, or
bahr el Hoolya, spreads along its base towards the
south, and is formed by streams and springs that
issue from the mountains round the valley. The
mountain on the right is called Hoogneen, that on
the left Busia, and the one behind, which overtops
the whole, and which is capped with snow, Gibl
Shiekh, or the chief mountain of the whole range,
an appellation to which it is well entitled. On a
GIBL SHIEKH. 451
projecting point, high up the side of this mountain,
commanding a view of the whole plain of the
Jordan, stand the remains of the ruined edifice
called Gal el Banias. The similarity of the name,
as well as the situation, would lead us to consider
this as the Paneas, on which Herod the Great
erected a temple to Augustus out of gratitude to
the Emperor, for having put him in possession of
Trachonitis. The ruin is at present called a fort;
but it has quite as much the appearance of having
been a temple, and there is no other place in these
quarters where the meeting not only of two but
many streams could be said to form the source of
the Jordan, but in the bahr el Hoolya, into which
numerous streams and springs pour their waters,
each contributing its portion to the formation of
this sacred stream; so that not only two, but many
streams may be said to claim the honor of forming
the river Jordan, and no two of them surpass the
other so much as to entitle them to the credit
of forming the lake, and much less the river which
issues from it. To trace the exact origin of each
of these springs would be endless; they rise from
the mountains all round, some from a greater,
others from a shorter distance, and are formed by
the rain and the melting of the snow upon the
mountains. In this view of the subject the moun-
tain now called Gibl Shiekh was anciently called
Panium. We are still in the Pashalic of Acre.
G G 2
452
GIBL SHIEKH.
Having finished our view of this interesting spot,
we descended again to enjoy the shade under the
venerable oaks, asking many questions about the
place and about the tomb of an honored shiekh
which lay at the foot of the stately oak that was
nearest the stream. The tomb may preserve the
ashes of the dead, but it is seldom that the me-
mory of the living preserves their history. We
could learn nothing satisfabtory either about the
place or about the tomb; but the rags and strings
that were suspended on the branches of the tree
above, and the lately burnt ashes that lay upon the
tomb below, abundantly testified the respect in
which it is held, and show that the rites with which
the dead are honored here are the same as in
Egypt.
The whole of this scene charmed us so much,
that we should probably have been induced to
have spent in it the remainder of the day, had our
baggage been along with us, but that was on its
way, and we must pursue it. We now ascended
the edge of the hill leaving the Panium or Gibl
Shiekh on our right, and passed through a fine un-
dulating lawn, enlivened with trees, and crops of
grain, and long unpastured grass apparently for
want of cattle. Had any tolerable house been in
sight, the whole would have looked like a gentle-
man's domain; but we saw few or no houses of any
description, and the cultivation appeared to be from
IIASBIA.
453
the Bedoween Arabs. We passed three wretched
creatures, an old man and two women seated
beside a branchless tree cooking some victuals, of
which they appeared to be much in want. We
next crossed the mountain range on our left, and
having traversed another valley and another moun-
tain, descended into the beautiful vale of Hasbia
where we found our tents pitched in a most delight-
ful spot and dinner preparing.
In the vale of Hasbia the silk-worm is success-
fully cultivated and in great abundance, and the
banks of the river and all throughout the vale are
covered with numerous plantations of mulberry-
trees, well cut and watered, and in the highest
order. The river runs into the bahr el Hoolya,
or lake of the Jordan. Hasbia is the name of a
considerable track of country that lies on the west
of Gibl Shiekh, and is chiefly inhabited by the
Druses ; also of a large town situated on the top of
a high hill, and said to contain three thousand
houses. All around our tents were pleasant gar-
dens, planted with the mulberry-tree, and watered
by streams derived from the river.
Next morning we resumed our journey at a quarter
past seven o'clock; having regained the road that
wre had left the night before, we came in about a
quarter of a mile to the principal source of the
river, where it wells out a large spring from under
the west side of Gibl Shiekh, but the broad and
454 RBSHIA.
well-worn channel both above and below, showed
that in the rainy season and in the melting of the
winter snows it must be the vehicle of a strong
and impetuous current. We are now in the Pa-
shalic of Damascus, but the chief power belongs
to the prince "of the Druses, and I believe there
are few Turks in the country. Our route lay
through a stony and barren track, hilly with patches
of cultivation, but thinly peopled; the rock was
limestone and a large grained conglomerate. We
continued our journey till about half past one
o'clock, when we stopt for the night at a spring of
excellent water on the road-side near the village
Reshia, which is a Christian village situated on the
top of a hill at about two miles distant and still to
the west of Gibl Shiekh.
The shiekh of our caravan, who was a Christian,
resided in this village, and, on hearing of the arri-
val of Lady Belmore, his wife and children, and his
brothers' wives and their children, came down to
pay their respects to her ladyship. Gentlemen they
said sometimes passed that way, but her ladyship
was the first female traveller that had ever visited
the country, and therefore they had come to wel-
come her as their chief; they seemed much disap-
pointed that we had not gone up and encampt
near the village* They were healthy-looking well
dressed women, of very pleasing manners, and
happy beyond measure at being admitted into her
KESHIA. 4?55
ladyship's tent. Their costume differs from that
of the women in Palestine in the Takeel and the
Akos. The first is a hollow tube generally of
silver about six inches long and shaped like a small
trumpet or truncated cone; they fasten it on the
crown of the head with the narrow end uppermost,
and wear over it a large white handkerchief which
covers the head and face and part of the shoulders.
It is an useful piece of dress in those countries; it
keeps the handkerchief from the head, and protects
them from the rays of the sun.
The Akos is a small silver bob, shaped like a bell,
which they wear in great numbers tied to the end
of their hair, which is worn long, flowing over their
shoulders. The effect of the Akos is to give the
countenance a languishing air from its weight, and
it must be habit alone that can render it tolerable.
After the Syrian dames had finished their interview
writh her ladyship, they seemed very unwilling to
leave our encampment, but hung about the tent
for such a length of time that it was necessaiy to
say we would not detain them any longer; this
hint, however, was rather above their comprehen-
sion, and our Albanian soldier who had travelled a
good deal in these parts, made no scruple in ad-
dressing them in language too plain to be misun-
derstood, which was quite effectual; and we were
much better pleased at hearing it said in Arabic,
than we should have been at hearing it in English.
,456 RAHLEE.
They gradually wound their way up the hill, and
in the evening sent us down an excellent supper,
consisting of butcher's meat, and rice dressed in
different ways with boiled milk and a species of
custard.
Next morning, the 19th, we resumed our journey
at seven o'clock. The morning was cool and de-
lightful, and as we wound our way over the hill,
leaving Reshia on our right, we felt braced and ex-
hilarated as if in the invigorating air of the north.
The scenery around was stony and mountainous, in-
terspersed with patches of cultivation, but the green
shrubs on the hill, backed by the snow capped Gibl
Shiekh, and lighted up by the beams of the morning
sun, presented a charming view of upland scenery.
In about three quarters of an hour we passed the
village of Fircook on our left, and separated from
the road by a deep ravine in which ran a stream of
water. The houses are high, and have a comfortable
appearance, and are placed in terraces which rise
above each other on the face of the bank. From
Fircook the scenery continued of nearly the same
description, ragged columnar masses of rock mixt
with the lugubrious cypress and dwarf cedar all the
way till we came to Rahlee, which is four hours
from Reshia, where we found the ruins of an an-
cient temple. It is a small edifice built of large
stones, and partially ornamented with sculpture,
which is apparently of Roman workmanship, and
CATON.
457
is much disintegrated. On the opposite side of
the road there are many stone pots and remarkably
fine walnut-trees. Higher up the bank are the
remains of another edifice which is called the pa-
lace. We received no account of the history of
the place. Travelling on for about two hours
further we descended a steep hill and issued out
from the mountain defiles upon a stony uncultivated
plain. We had now passed by the end of Gibl
Shiekh; thus far the air was cool and agreeable,
but we had now opened the plain of Hauran, Tra-
chelitis, and Damascus, and the sun beat upon us
with unusual fervor, untempered by any cloud or
breeze from the mountain. We held our way
through the plain for three hours longer, when,
coming near to the village of Caton, we pitched
our tents beside a small stream on a small verdant
spot of ground between two gardens shaded by
the lofty poplar and the fig-tree. We obtained
milk, bread, and vegetables from the village, but
none of the natives came near us; they are all
Mussulmans.
Next morning at seven o'clock we set out for
Damascus; the road lay through the village of
Caton, which is a substantial good-looking village
built of stone, and contains many houses of two
and three stories high. The ground immediately
around is dry and barren. As we advanced, how-
458 CATON.
ever, both soil and verdure improved, the plain is
remarkably flat, extensive and well cultivated, and
covered with crops of wheat and barley, and in-
tersected by small streams of water that pass
through it in all directions. The road is a narrow
regular well-worn track resembling a cross road in
this country in the dry season of the year. Not an
enclosure to be seen, but a large space of the plain
before us is covered with wood. Hauran lay down
to our right, a large plain inclosed between two
mountain ridges; the high mountain scenery which
we had left the day before, stretches out on our
left hand, a lofty promontory which we perceive
at a distance, crowned with an aged ruin is called
Cobet el Nassr, or arch of victory, and the pro-
montory itself Salehiyyeh, at the foot of which
stands Damascus; but we travelled on a long way
before we discovered any appearance of the city,
or any crowding of passengers going in or out
from it. Having passed the corn fields we entered
the wood; the ground still continues level and the
small streamlets show and conceal themselves by
turns. In about five hours from Caton we came
to what appeared to be the suburbs of the town,
but which proved to be a small village, and a large
cemetery with a number of tombs and houses of
poor people, built up like round pyramids or cones.
They are all of burnt brick, and in good repair.
DAMASCUS. 459
Having passed this cemetery and the village, we
travelled on for an hour further, through a plan-
tation of large walnut-trees that were bending to
the ground under a load of fruit, and arrived at
the walls of Damascus, which are built chiefly of
brick, and are very old and frail, and fallen down
in several places.
C 460 ]
CHAPTER XXL
DAMASCUS ITS CONTENTS—AND AHMET BEY.
Damascus is so completely covered by the wood,
that we were close upon it before we got a sight of
any part of the town, and then we were near the
west gate by which we entered. In this quarter
the Franks and Christians chiefly reside, and it ap-
pears to have been the public entrance in old times;
for, about a quarter of a mile before we came up to
the gate, we were shown the place where Saul, ar-
rested in his wicked career by a light from heaven,
fell to the earth; the very spot on which he light-
ed is shown, and from being a persecutor of the
Christians, he afterwards became the most zealous
of all the Apostles. This memorable spot is on
the side of the old road, near the ruined arch of a
bridge, and close by it are the tombs of some de-
vout Christians. There is no house or decoration
upon it, only the road turns a little aside, that this
part may remain unaffected by the general repair
of travellers.
After entering the town we proceeded a little
way along the street, which is called Straight, and
DAMASCUS.
461
which is so named, because it leads directly from
the gate to the castle or palace of the Pasha,
Leaving it we turned to the right, and proceeded
along a narrow street lined with houses built of un-
burnt brick on each hand, and we were so much
disappointed by their mean, and even ruinous, ap-
pearance, that we began to suspect that travellers,
in calling this a terrestrial paradise, really meant to
pun on the material of which it is built. Yet through
the windows of these ruined hovels we saw the peo-
ple carrying on the beautiful manufacture of Da-
mascus silk, One old man, bending over his web,
struck us particularly; his countenance was the
very color of the clayey mansion he inhabited; his
beard and turban were white, and Tithoneus him-
self, in becoming etherialized, could hardly have
parted with less to the material world. If a spider
had moved the frame of the loom, the effect would
not have appeared more unlikely than from the
touch of his bloodless hand. This man and his
work seemed the extremes of luxury and famine.
But we had not long time to indulge in reflection,
for a short turn to the left brought us to the door
of the Franciscan convent, which is a large sub-
stantial building, as all convents generally are.
The Earl and Countess of Belmore were accom-
modated in the house of Mr. Chaboi^eau, a French
surgeon of eminence, and a most agreeable well-
bred man, a disciple of the old school, when, in
462 DAMASCUS.
point of politeness, the French were the first in the
world; the rest of the party were domiciled in the
convent.
The house of this worthy gentleman gave us the
first idea of the habitations in Damascus* and taught
us not to judge of them by what was to be seen in
passing by. A rough lime-cast wall fronted the
street, which was entered by a small door that led
into a court paved with marble, in the middle of
which was a small fountain of fresh water con-
stantly playing. Opening into it on the one side
was his principal room, on the other an arcade
raised above the level of the court, and laid with
carpets and cushions; here the company sat and
talked, drank coffee, or smoked tobacco, as inclina*
tion led them. From the Pasha and Bey of the
first consequence, down to the shopkeeper and me-
chanic, all their habitations are constructed after
this manner. The interior of some of them is ex-
tremely magnificent; but all of them presents a
dead wall to the street, that exhibits nothing great
or attractive, and all of them are entered by a small
door of a very ordinary description. In the houses
of the grandees, immediately within this door, is an
outer court, which is occupied by the porter, and
some others of the domestics. From this, on the
one hand, an entrance goes off to the haram, which
has a court appropriated to itself j and, on the other,
into the principal court, which is one of great splen-
DAMASCUS. 4<68
dor, paved with marble, and cooled with one or two
fountains of water, and shaded by clumps of ever-
greens. Off this court is the principal room, which,
in the lower part, is cooled and ornamented with a
fountain of water, and in the upper part furnished
with a divan for the accommodation of visiters. The
interior of the walls are generally niched, or provid-
ed with shelves, on which are exhibited a display of
china plates, jars, basins, and bowls, such as are
used at table. In this apartment the stranger is
generally received on his first introduction; but
the places of common reception are the large ar-
cades that open into the court, one of which is laid
round with a divan, which is moved to the other as
the sun comes round, or according to the pleasure
of the possessor or his company. These arcades are
extremely agreeable, both from the free circulation
of air, and the delightful softening of the light to
the eye, by reason of the evergreens. Such are the
houses of Ahmet Bey, of Solyman Seraff, or Jew
banker, of an unfortunate Aga, and another noble
Turk, whose names I have neglected to put down.
The last is by far the finest house that we saw in
Damascus; but the misfortunes of the family have
suffered it to go to decay. The proprietor still con-
tinued to reside in it, but his means are not equal
to keep it in repair.
The above method of constructing houses renders
them peculiarly private, Each family enjoys itself
464
DAMASCUS.
apart from the noise and bustle of the town. The
streets of Damascus are the most noiseless possible.
There are no gentlemen's carriages in it whatever,
and hardly any carts, and such as are have wooden
wheels unshod with iron; and the occasional step
of a Christian's ass, a camel, a mule, or more rarely
of a horse, has but little in it to disturb the solemn
repose of a Turk. Every man's house is his castle,
and, in case of an'irritated mob threatening to at-
tack any of its oppressors, he can shut himself up
in his habitation, and remain till the governing
power send a force to protect him.
The first visit that we paid in Damascus was to
Ahmet Bey, the son of Abdalla, the late Pasha.
This gentleman is said to be a philosopher: we
smiled at the idea of a literary Turk, and proceed-
ed thither with no small anxiety to see the specta-
cle* His Excellency received us with great polite-
ness. Pipes, coffee, and sherbet of lemonade were
immediately produced. Having welcomed the party
to Damascus, he begged the noble visiter to inform
him of the different places that he had visited in
his extensive tour, of all of which he received a
succinct and animated account. After which the
Bey was anxious to hear his Lordship's opinion on
some points of philosophy, and very boldy asked
him whether he thought the earth moved round the
sun, or was stationary. His noble visiter asserted
the rotatory motion of the earth; to which his Ex-
DAMASCUS*
465
cellency replied, " Yes, that is the opinion of some
people here; but, for his part, he considered that
if the earth really turned round, it must some-
times happen that the water was undermost: how
then did it not fall off?" This he considered as an
unanswerable objection to the rotatory motion of
the earth, and it is impossible to express the looks
of approbation that passed between him and his
friends, while he watched the effect that the inter-
pretation of his reply would produce on the coun-
tenance of his noble visiter, and joined heartily in
the laugh which it occasioned, imagining that his
objection defied all explanation, and had completely
set the question at rest. The laugh being finished
the discussion was not resumed; we saw that the
Bey was as profound a philosopher as a man who
had never whirled round his head a glassful of water
in a string.
Having finished the philosophical part of the con-
versation, he commenced the medical, a subject in
which he was more intimately concerned. His sense
of hearing had been impaired for a considerable
time, and he had now become so deaf that he could
not enjoy conversation as he had formerly done, and
was extremely depressed in spirits, as he thought
the complaint was getting worse. A consultation
was fixed for the following day with his medical
adviser, and at seven o'clock all three met exactly
by appointment; but no business could be done
VOL. II. H H
466
DAMASCUS-.
till a pipe had been smoked; we then proceeded to
examine the ears, and afterwards to wash them;
and having cleared out an immense quantity of
hardened wax and cotton, the ringing in his ears
immediately ceased, and he felt quite in another
world, and so far from scarcely hearing at all, he
seemed to hear too acutely, from the exposed state
of the organ under irritation. The auditory pass-
age having been washed and dried, was stuffed with
cotton, and the Bey returned to his seat in the ar-
cade with a happy and a smiling countenance, and
with seven years' more life in his body than when
he left it.
It is astonishing with what rapidity the success
of this triflng operation spread through Damascus.
In about two hours thereafter, going to the bazars
with Lord and Lady Belmore, the intelligence met
me from several quarters. As I passed by the great
khan or hotel, a respectable looking Turk came up
and struck me on the breast, a mode of salutation
which is general throughout the East, but, having
never met with it before, I was rather taken by
surprise, and was looking at my gentleman, who
seemed quite disappointed that I did not return the
salutation blow. The interpreter interfered and
solved all doubts, by informing me that this
gentleman said he had seen me at the house of
Omar Eifendi in Jerusalem, and was amazed that I
did not recollect him. This was sufficient intro-
DAMASCUS. 467
duction; we were friends immediately. Perceiving
that I had purchased some tobacco, which I held
in my hand wrapped up in a piece of paper, the
Turk took from his breast a new and highly em-
broidered tobacco-bag which he thrust into mine,
saying, "Come, take this, it will hold your to-
bacco; but you ought not to purchase any, it is
not good. Since you give us health we will give
you tobacco, and every thing you want. You cured
Omar Effendi in Jerusalem, and you have cured
Ahmet Bey in Damascus." I took him at his word,
and told him he was the most liberal man I had ever
met with in the whole course of my life, and that if
he would do all he said he almost deserved to be
worshipped. He was a Turkish merchant from
Bagdadt, residing for the time at the khan in Da-
mascus. I received many visits from him in the
convent, and we met frequently at the house of
Ahmet Bey.
The streets in Damascus are narrow and irregu-
lar, and consequently well shaded from the sun;
broad streets are no luxury in warm climates, and
here I felt the full force of the remark of Tacitus,
that Nero spoiled Rome by broad streets. The
shops abounded with fruit and vegetables. The
peaches, nectarines, and apricots were excellent;
a species of the latter, which they called lousi, pos-
sessed the most exquisite and delicious flavor.
But what we found most agreeable of all was the
h h 2
468 DAMASCUS.
great abundance of iced water that was exposed
for sale in eveiy quarter of the town. It is gene-
rally mixt with the juice of figs or currants, and
forms an agreeable and refreshing beverage, in
which the Damascenes indulge to profusion. Of the
shopkeepers, I would say in general, that I never
saw a more comfortable looking class of people in
their station of life. They are clean, well-dressed,
of an excellent habit of body, and so extremely
civil to strangers, that if they have not the articles
you wish to purchase, they will, unsolicited, walk
with you to the place where you can be suited, and
not leave you till you say " this will do: this is
good."
In Damascus, as in Cairo, each class of commo-
dities has its own class of bazars. There are whole
streets in which nothing but shoes and boots are
sold; others in which nothing but ready made
clothes are sold; others for the silks of Constan-
tinople, which are by far the finest and the most
valued. But the articles generally worn in Syria
are of the manufacture of Damascus, and are a
mixture of silk and cotton. They are extremely
durable, and some of the patterns remarkably hand-
some. There is one large bazar for the goldsmiths,
where we saw not less than two hundred of them
seated together in one room, each with his anvil,
hammer, and drawers before him; but this should
rather be called a manufactory than a bazar; for
DAMASCUS. 469
on entering it a person was stunned with noise, as
if he had been in a foundery. There are also bazars
for swords and military accoutrements; but the cha-
racter of Damascus blades is much declined from
what it was in former times. Each country seems to
think that it possesses the art in an equal degree of
perfection. Constantinople regards her manufacture
of swords as the best, and Cairo, Aleppo, and Bag-
dadt all put forth a claim for the same distinction.
The bazars in Damascus are better lighted, and
have a more elegant and airy appearance than those
in Cairo or Constantinople. The bazars for ready-
made clothes, which are near the palace of the
Pasha, form an agreeable lounging place, where the
traveller is certain of seeing a constant crowd of
people passing and repassing in all the different
costumes of the country, which are those of the
Turk, the Bedoween Arab, the Druses, and the
Syrian Christian. The first is dressed in the most
brilliant colors; but the caftan and the red shach-
sheers are more frequent than the shalwars. The
Bedoween Arab is dressed in unbleached cotton
cloth, with a grey, or blue and white abba in large
cross stripes. He wears a leathern girdle about his
waist, with a green and yellow handkerchief on his
head, which in the country hangs down loose over
his cheeks, and when he comes into town, he ge-
nerally ties it tight round his head. They rarely
wear turbans. The dress of the Christians is of a
470 DAMASCUS.
graver complexion than that of the Mussulmans,
though not quite so dismal in Damascus as it is in
Grand Cairo. The turboush is red, and of the same
species of manufacture, but it is much larger, and
hangs down in a bag from the crown of the head.
The turban is of small checkered silk, red, blue,
and yellow, and tied so as to give a full square
shape in front, and to make the countenance look
full and bold. The effect of the Mameluke turban
is to make the countenance of a lowering and un-
kindly aspect, as if it belonged to an assassin or a
thief. The abba is quite different in shape, pattern,
and manufacture. It is worsted, and wrought in
small stripes, red and black. It is worn much shorter,
and is every way smaller, and when viewed behind
looks like a man's coat worn by a woman above her
petticoats. The black abba, however, already de-
scribed, is a dress of much higher consequence than
the one which I have just mentioned. It is the full
dress of the shiekh, as the other is of his son. Here
it is called mashlah, and not abba, which is the
name reserved for the striped robe. The beniss is
also in general use here, and there is much more
style and elegance among the people in general
than we found in Cairo, which arises from their
greater intercourse with Constantinople, and from
a greater number of the inhabitants being gentle-
men by birth and education.
The females in Damascus wear universally the
©AMASCUS. 471
large white robe which covers their head and
shoulders; but such of them as we see in the ba-
zars are generally passed the prime of life, and ne-
ver walk about in company with gentlemen, as in
the Christian towns of Europe.
The men wear beards or mustachoes, with the
cheek, head, and part of the chin completely shaved.
Mustachoes and whiskers are said to be character-
istic of a Jew; hut the remark is not even generally
applicable- The Mameluke dress is but little worn
in Damascus, and being arrayed in that costume we
were known immediately for Caireens, and the cu-
riosity which we manifested in looking at every
thing, soon discovered us to be Europeans; and
our Albanian soldier was immediately asked, "Who
is that? who is that?" Instead of replying "he is an
English nobleman/' or prince, as the word would
probably havebeenrendered, he cautiously and care-
lessly said, "Oh! he is an English consul;" a cha-
racter to which they are not unaccustomed in the
East. This immediately satisfied their curiosity re-
specting Lord Belmore; but observing his atten-
tions to her ladyship, who was likewise dressed in
the long costume of the Mameluke, they next in-
quired, "Who is that with him?" To which the angh
Italian gravely replied, "Qh! that is his clerk," which
passed off remarkably well, though not quite satis-
factorily *, for observing a little more narrowly they
further inquired, "How comes it that the consul's
472 DAMASCUS.
clerk has no beard? He seems to be old enough
too to have one." This was a poser; but the re-
spondent saved himself by saying, "He could not
tell, it had not happened to grow; that there were
sometimes odd cases of that kind ;" and the philo-
sophic Turk immediately solved the difficulty, by
remarking, "Oh! it is the will of God, we know
nothing about these things,"—and here the con-
versation dropt. This is the only time that her
ladyship's appearance in the bazars attracted any
particular attention.
Previous to our arrival in Damascus Lady Bel-
more had been strongly recommended not to appear
in the bazars at all; because the Damascenes are
particularly acute in discovering any person in dis-
guise, and, it was added, would raise a mob instant-
ly if they found a woman walking about in the dress
of a gentleman, and in company with a gentleman,
and her face unveiled $ and unless her ladyship
would consent to muffle herself up, and walk about
as the ladies in the country, she was seriously ad-
vised not to attempt going out. However, on con-
sidering the matter coolly after we had arrived in
Damascus, it appeared to us that there was no more
danger to be apprehended to her ladyship in walk-
ing through the bazars here than in Cairo or Jeru-
salem, which, on making the trial, proved to be the
case; for Lady Belmore, in the dress of a Mame-
luke, not only walked into the bazars, but into the
DAMASCUS. 473
large open cafe's on the banks of the river, and
sat down and took her hooka and her cup of coffee
the same as the other members of the party, un-
noticed and unannoyed: a proof of her ladyship's
resolution, and of the eager desire of knowledge
that led her to examine every thing of consequence
that occurred in the course of our extensive tour;
and also that the people in Damascus are not so
quick-sighted, or so uncivil, as they are reported
to be.
By the cafes in Damascus, which have been so
much celebrated, are generally understood those
that are situated on the banks of the river % for the
cafes in the interior of the town are mere smok-
ing houses, and have nothing particular to recom-
mend them; but the others are remarkably well
adapted to the climate, which being extremely
warm in certain seasons of the year, they are form-
ed to exclude the rays of the sun, while they ad-
mit the breeze, and gratify the eye with the de-*
lightful sight of luxuriant vegetation, and the ear
with the rushing sound of artificial cascades. In
order to secure the enjoyment of so many luxuries,
these cafes are situated in the skirts of the town,
on the edge of that branch of the Barrada, which
supplies the gardens. In some parts they are on
the city side of the river, and enjoy the prospect of
a muddy stream rolling rapidly by, and the banks
of the river covered with wood and grass. In other
474* DAMASCUS.
places they are on the garden side of the river, and
(are approached by a high wooden bridge. The
cafe, in this instance, is quite sunbounded with
wood, and a branch of the river from the garden
divides and flows smoothly round it, and forms a
cascade at each end, where it falls into the main
stream. Thus situated, the cafe is cooler and bet-
ter shaded; but the prospect is the town and the
river, which is by no means so agreeable as in the
former case..
These cafes are all constructed of wood, and con-
sist of a high pavilion roof, supported with wooden
pillars, and partially covered with mats, evergreens,
and creepers, They are far from being elegant or
expensive; but they are cool, and admit an agree-
able and softened light, that forms a charming con-
trast with the intense glare of the sun glancing
upon the waters, or reflected from the whitened
walls of the houses of the town. The floor is of
wood or earth, most generally the former, and is
regularly watered. All round are high raised broad
bottomed wooden seats like sofas, for the frequent-
ers to sit on after the fashion of their country, and
smoke, drink coffee, talk, and enjoy themselves.
As a place of public resort, I must confess these
cafes appeared to me both dull and uncomfortable,
and the company generally of a very ordinary de-
scription. There are no public papers, no maga-
zines, no reviews, and nothing to keep up a gene*
DAMASCUS. 4<75
ral, or a national interest. Sometimes a person, like
a hawker, reads or recites a tale, that may chance
to be listened to; it by no means follows as a matter
of course. They are commonly remarkably still
and silent, and seem as if being over-fatigued, to
go thither to indulge in a little repose. Each per-
son as he enters calls for a hooka, and a cup of cof-
fee, which are immediately brought to him. There
are no long pipes in the cafes, at Damascus, and
the hooka is such a hideous and unwieldly instrument
that nothing but the most determined resolution
to smoke could make it at all tolerable. In these
words I am not to be understood as abusing the
elegant smoking apparatus, usually known in this
country by the name of hooka, which, with its
handsome arguil and snake, deserves to be spoken
of in terms of commendation, as far at least as
appearances are concerned; but a most infamous
substitute to which the cafetiers of Damascus have
most unwarrantably given the same name. It con-
sists of a head that somewhat resembles the hooka,
and a small bit of hollow cane, about two feet and
a half long, stuck into the side of it for a shaft*
It has no amber mouth-piece, and is lighted in the
same way as the hooka, but the stalk is too short
to let it rest on the ground, and it is so difficult to
draw, that the novitiate in smoking is obliged to
keep pulling, and balancing, and making such efforts
as greatly to endanger the safety of his brain, and
476 DAMASCUS.
respiratory organs: and all for what? to obtain a
whiff of tobacco through a drop of dirty water.
There is nothing so absurd that fashion will not
reconcile us to, nor any thing that a man disposed
to be idle will not do to fill up his time; or an
active man, in want of employment, to have the
sensation of doing something. These are, perhaps,
the best apologies that can be offered for men
indulging in such a revolting and abominable prac-
tice. Were it imposed on them as a task by their
superiors, it would be considered as an act of in-
tolerable oppx^ession, and would be denounced as
the source of half the diseases to which the vota-
ries of this horrible species of smoking are liable;
but, as they have taken it up of their own whim
and caprice, to regale their leisure hours, they
hail the hour that lets them loose to the enjoyment,
as the greatest consolation, and pay their money
with the. greatest pleasure for permission to suck
poison and stupefaction through dirty water, from
the end of a stick; but they say, it is good for the
sight, it is good for the head-ache, it is good for the
belly-ache, it is good for the digestion of food, and
for removing the sensation of hunger; in short, it
possesses every excellent quality that fancy chooses
to give it, and no more. To see the ease and com-
fort with which a person smokes the hooka, or the
long pipe, a stranger who had never seen the ope*,
ration, nor knew its virtues, would say at once,
DAMASCUS. 477
"that man is enjoying himself": but were he to enter
one of the cafes in Damascus, and see a hundred
or two hundred people balancing this immense
thing like an ass's head, on the point of a small
cane, and sucking and pulling away at it with such
eagerness, he would certainly conclude that these
people were either dementated, or that they inhaled
life and felicity in the draught which cost them so
much trouble to obtain, and would as certainly
laugh at their folly when he learnt what they were
doing, and what were its effects. The gardens
round Damascus are private property, and answer
better to the description of what we call orchards
in this country than gardens. They abound in
fountains and summer-houses, and furnish a delight-
ful retirement under the shade of the walnut, the
citron, the orange, and the pomegranate. The
principal ones lie close upon the town, on the west,
between it and the mountain Salehiyyeh, but they are
scattered through the whole of the plantation around
Damascus, which extends over a circumference of
certainly not less than twenty miles. The town
itself is nearly in the centre of the plantation, and
is about six miles in circumference. Nothing can
be more delightful than such an extensive shade in
such a country. The environs of Damascus are
cool, and refresh the eye with a continual verdure.
Riding or walking, or reposing among these plan-
tations is the most gratifying of all enjoyments to
a native of the country. Hence the grateful eulo-
4?8 DAMASCUS.
gies that have been bestowed on her gardens and
her pleasant fields. She has been called, noble, Sham
Schereeff, the beautiful, a perfect Eden, a terres-
trial paradise; and when we consider these epithets
as applied to it by the enthusiastic Arabs, the
thirsty inhabitants of Mecca and Medina, who had
never seen any thing of the kind before, we may
believe that the authors of them really spoke as
they felt.
Immediately adjoining the town, on the south-
west, there is a large open field, called by the
Franks, Agro Damasceno. It is partly cultivated,
but chiefly open and covered with grass like a com-
mon. Here the Turks perform their military ex-
ercise, and their feats of horsemanship, and when the
hour of prayer arrives, have only to retire to the
branch of the Barrada, by which it is watered, wash,
and perform their devotions, and resume their ex-
ercise when that is over. The Romans give out
that in this field Adam was created; and it is quite
consistent that those who found out that he had
been buried in Jerusalem, and discovered his skull
in the rent of the rock, should also find out that
he had been created at Damascus, and we were
astonished that they did not exhibit the hole in
which he had been kneaded, the mould in which
his frame had been cast, una piccolissima, piccolis-
sima pezzetta of the original clay, small, subtle,
swift, heavy, and ridiculous, like the particles of
the graviific fluid; the first print of the foot that
DAMASCUS 479
he pressed upon the ground, and £ drop or two of
the perspiration that fell from his body, while he
dried like a muffin an the banks of the Barrada.
Adjoining the field there is an hospital in very bad
repair, and a large mosque almost deserted.
The best view of Damascus is from the top of
the mountain Salehiyyeh, which is about a thousand
feet above the level of the town, and the best sta-
tion on the top of the mountain for viewing it is,
the Kobat el Nassr, or Arch of Victory. The road
thither crosses the Barrada, by a high bridge, passes
through the village of Salehiyyeh, winds up the hill
round to the valley of the Barrada, from which the
ascent to the summit is comparatively easy; towards
the town it is quite precipitous. The Kobat el
Nassr is the name given to a ruined building of
small dimensions j but for what purpose, or by
whom erected, is not correctly ascertained. By
some it is mentioned as the residence and tomb of
a shiekh, of the name of Nassr. By others it is
mentioned as an edifice, erected on this favored
spot, for the sole purpose of viewing the country;
but that it never was finished j death having cut
short the project of the founder. It has all the
appearance of an unfinished building. It is fur-
ther reported that from this commanding station,
Mahomet, the celebrated impostor, viewed the de-
lightful city and plain of Damascus, and, trans-
ported with the sight, exclaimed, there is but one
480 DAMASCUS.
paradise intended for man, and that he being de-
termined not to have his in this world, would not
enter the city. There is not the slightest foundation
for such a story. Mahomet never had it in his power
to enter Damascus; for it was not taken till two
years after his death, whenKhaled and Yezid, the two
generals of Abubekr, his successor, defeated Hera-
clius in a pitched battle near Damascus, which they
took, after a siege of six months, in the year of our
Lord, 634. Though the story be apocryphal, the
prospect from the mountain is extremely beautiful.
It comprises the town with its numerous mosques
and minarets; the extensive woods and gardens,
with which it is surrounded, all clothed in the most
luxuriant verdure, in every different shade, from
the deepest to the lightest green. The plain is ex-
tremely level, and stretches out towards the east
further than the eye pan reach; towards the north-
west the mountain Ashloon bounds it in the dis-
tance j. and in a south-easterly direction its conti-
nuity is broken by the mountains of Hauran. The
streams of water are not perceptible from the
mountain, and the plain, though extensive, does
not exhibit that rich and luxuriant vegetation that
adorns the banks of the Jordan and the Nile. It is
only in the immediate environs of the city that this
is so conspicuous, and the view from the mountain
is but the verdure of trees; the bright sun, and the
cloudless sky that light up the scenery in the Eastern
DAMASCUS. 481
world, which, as long as the verdure of the fields
remains unscorched by its rays, diffuse such a charm
throughout the landscape, that we should look in
vain for any thing similar in those countries, where
a dense and hazy atmosphere prevail; but with
all the advantages of cloudless skies, the environs
of Damascus, in point of natural scenery, extent,
or cultivation, are not once to be named or put in
comparison with the environs of London: no more
than a river about thirty yards broad is to be com-
pared to the majestic Thames, or a continuous and
almost uninhabited wood, of five or six miles, to the
beautiful and populous environs of the British capi-
tal; and the boasted view from Salehiyyeh is to that
from Hampstead or Highgate, or Richmond-hill;
what a cottage garden is to Kew. But if the drapery
of external nature be so inferior in the Syrian capital,
that of the intellectual nature is so many thousand
times more to be deplored; the comparison of a
giant to a dwarf, of gold to the ore, or wine to the
lees, can hardly be said fairly to contrast the states
of the human mind in the respective cities, where
the inhabitants of the one are in the highest cultiva-
tion, while the other is a field unbroken upland
overgrown with weeds; a rough unhewn block,
in its native quarry, under a load of rubbish. The
Turks and the negroes are the unproductive mem-
bers of our race; they have never contributed one
thought to science, nor suggested one scheme to
. VOL. II. I I
482 DAMASCUS.
improve our condition. This cannot be said of any
Christian country upon earth, and he that contri-
butes to christianise the Moslems, contributes to
turn the force of so many additional intellects to
improve the science, and advance the happiness of
man*
The success of my prescription for Ahmet Bey
had the effect of filling the convent with patients
every morning. The men I saw in my own room,
the women in the piazza, leading to the church.
Many children were brought to me affected with
the small-pox, which was generally mild and dis-
tinct. The cow-pox had been introduced, but
through neglect, both on the part of the people
and the medical practitioners, had been allowed to
disappear. The cases of ophthalmia were compa-
ratively few; many cases of deafness, consumption,
and paralysis, and occasional cases of rheumatism;
bilious and dyspeptic affections were the most pre-
valent, and many of them were considerably bene-
fited by using the pipe, instead of the hooka, which
occasions a great exertion of the diaphragm and
respiratory organs. The Turkish women generally
came along with the Christian, to receive advice in
the precincts of a Christian church; and the morn-
ing of my departure from Damascus, the daughter
of a Turkish schereeff, a young lady about seventeen
years of age, came along with her brother. I had
seen her twice before, at her father's house. This
BAMASCUS. 483
was quite new, to see a Turkish woman of rank,
come to receive medical advice in a Christian con-
vent: I was delighted to see it, and both from that
and other circumstances, J should willingly indulge
the hope that many of the antipathies which for-
merly actuated the followers of islamism against the
Christians, are beginning to soften and relax, and
that thetime is fast approaching when all the families
of the earth shall feel and know that God is no re-
specter of persons, that their interest, their guilt,
and the means of their reconciliation are the same,
and that mutual forbearance are the universal duties
of man to man. How amiable is mercy when there
is the power to have sacrifice!
I was frequently requested to visit families of
distinction in Damascus; sometimes in company
with Mr. Chaboi?eau, but generally alone. The
manner of visiting the gentlemen was the same as
has been already described, but in visiting the ladies
there was a little difference. Occasionally the hus-
band chose to accompany the interpreter and my-
self to the bedside of his distressed wife; at other
times the interpreter was excluded, and told me
through a chink in the door, the meaning of what
the husband told him the patient had said, and
instructed the husband in return to make such que-
ries as I desired. At other times the husband did
not interfere at all, but the black eunuch and my-
self walked into the apartment of the patient, and
i i 2
484 DAMASCUS.
the interpreter remained without, and explained
the sentences as they were repeated to him. When
the patient was not in bed she generally made her
appearance within the door of the court.
I am happy to say that the husband always ap-
peared to manifest the greatest concern for his wife,
and heard with much solicitude the opinion that
was given on her complaint. When that was favor-
able, he added, with pathetic emphasis, "enshalla,
—may God grant it j" when unfavorable, he was
either silent, which showed that he apprehended
the worst; or if he said any thing, it was "Allah
kareem— God is merciful;" "Allah biaraff— God
is in the knowing of it;" thereby intimating his
entire submission to the will of God, and hoping
that he might recover his wife, although the doctor
had given her over.
The Turks are not actors in grief, nor are they
of that unstable and mercurial temperament as to
cry one moment and to laugh the next. Sorrow is
with them a real passion, clouding the countenance,
and engrossing the whole feelings of the soul. The
deep stream rarely dimples, and the sorrowing
heart does not run riot in mirth. An occasional
smile may flicker on the face of the mourner, but
it is the smile of fatuity, and his sorrow borders
on distraction. I never saw a countenance more
deeply or more truly express inward grief or in-
dignation than that of a Turk; nor did I ever see
DA3IASCUS* 485
any man look happier in speaking to, or showing at-
tentions to a child: when he took him up in his arms
his aspect showed that he had him in his heart; nor
did I ever hear any man pronounce the name of God
with greater reverence. Allah issues from his lips
embalmed in the devotional fervor of his soul. The
natural capabilities of the people are of the highest
order; but an absurd religion, or rather an ab-
surd interpretation of that religion has produced a
defective system of education, and the mind re-
mains stationary and unimproved from generation
to generation. They know how prone the human
heart is to idolatry, and their indiscriminate ha-
tred of it has done them much harm. They are
determined monotheistSj and the unity of deity is
constantly in their mouths, and they cannot endure
the Christians, whom they believe to be polythe-
ists, and idolaters; hence they will not associate
with them, lest they should be infected by the con-
tagion of their example; and their constant prayer
is, that they may be preserved from it. "Allah
wachet—there is but one God," is their constant
address to the Christians; and in looking at the
pictures and images with which the churches in
the East are disgraced and profaned, I am sorry to
say that they have but too much reason for the ac-
cusation. The Turks have never seen a Christian
church as it ought to be, and they have never seen
and know nothing of Christianity; hence their
486 DAMASCUS.
aversion to it, and to Christians, and to eveiy tiling:
that comes from them \ disgusted with their idola*
try, they slight and despise their science. There
is a remarkable coincidence in this respect between
the Turks and the Jews. This wonderful and un-
fortunate people, believing that all their misfortunes
have arisen from their proneness to idolatry and
polytheism, now, in the day of their calamity, hope
for salvation and restitution by constantly avowing
the unity of God. Ached, or one (God), is the
last word that a Jew wishes his mortal lips to pro-
nounce in the hearing of his friends upon earth;
and, when his soul take its flight into the world of
spirits, this is its only rest and consolation; the
bark that is to bear him to the throne of Jehovah,
and on this he confides for acceptance with Him*
They too despise the science of the Christians.
Who will take the veil off Israel's race, and teach
the Mussulman and the Jew that there is but one
Mediator between God and man, and that there i&
no idolatry or polytheism in the religion of Jesus?
To let them alone is miserable; it is to pass by on
the other side, and leave the Samaritan to die of
his wounds.
In the Christian families in Damascus, the ladies
.present themselves in the same manner as in Cairo,
or Jerusalem; and, although they occasionally serve
the visiter, are not such slavish menials to him as
in them. The Christian families here have much
DAMASCUS. 487
intercourse with each other, and balls and enter-
tainments frequently occur. The ladies wear the
large white robe, but the takeel and akos are not
common among the inhabitants of Damascus \ they
seem to be more peculiarly the dress of the country
villagers. The ladies wear upon their forehead a
frontlet, composed of several strings of zequins, or
gold coins, fitted to each other, forming a broad
imbricated surface like a coat of mail, nearly as
broad as the palm of the hand, rising up, and pro-
jecting forward.
There are many Greek and Armenian, Maro-
nite and Syrian Christians in Damascus; but any
intercouse that I had with them was entirely pro-
fessional. There are also many Jews in Damascus,
and their lot may be considered as particularly for-
tunate under the present political arrangements of
the country. All the money transactions of the
Pasha, indeed I may say of the country, are ma-
naged by two Jews, who are brothers, and who
being intelligent, strong-minded men, exercise con-
siderable influence over their ruler, to whom they
have constant access, being his interpreter for the
Arabic and Turkish languages, and his confidential
advisers. Besides, their office is permanent, while
that of the Pasha may be changed every year.
Every year it is the business of the Pasha to con-
duct the caravan to Mecca; he may be reappointed,
but he resigns his office as soon as he returns.
488
DAMASCUS.
These two worthy gentlemen are brothers of the
late banker and friend of the Pasha of Acre, the
unfortunate man whose nose and ears the butcher-
ing Djezzar cut off, but still retained him in his
service, as he knew no person so capable of ma-
naging his affairs. They are men of plain dress
and manners, and have very little the appearance
of courtiers; but through their influence with the
ruler of the land, their brethren, the Jews, enjoy
security and peace in the country, and many of
them are making rich, and purchasing landed pro-
perty.
Two days before leaving Damascus, I was sent
for by one of these worthy gentlemen to visit his
only son, a boy about ten years of age, seven of
which he had been blind. Having detailed to me
the history of the case, he added, that he had often
been advised to have the eyes^operated upon; but
that he had always resisted the advice, from want
of confidence in those who were to perform the
operation, but if I considered it a proper case, he
was willing that it should now be performed. The
young Jew labored under a cataract in both eyes;
this could easily have been removed; but the eye
was otherwise extremely irritable and unsound,
which rendered the consequences of an operation
more uncertain. Had I seen this patient imme-
diately on my arrival, I should have had no hesita-
tion, after a little treatment, to have operated on
DAMASCUS. 489
him with a fair prospect of success; but being on
the eve of my departure, I would not undertake
the case, as there was no time to prepare the pa-
tient, or to superintend the after-treatment. Hav-
ing stated this to the seraff, or banker, (the people
in Damascus are named from their employment as
they are sometimes here.) I recommended him to
send his boy into the country, as the warm season
was approaching, that his general health would
thereby be improved, and that he would be a fitter
subject for operation to the next medical gentle-
man who should visit Damascus. He said he had
been advised by Mr. Chaboi9eau to send his son to
Europe, and that since I did not undertake the
operation, in the propriety of which he fully ac-
quiesced, he would in the course of a year or two
adopt the plan recommended by him. I have not
heard the result.
The para, a base silver coin, twenty of which
are equal to a sixpence of our currency, is the
general circulating medium in the Syrian capital.
Lord Belmore received from his banker 50/. in
these small coins; they were made up in parcels
which were tendered at a certain value, and re-
ceived without being counted; if found wanting,
the deficiency was promised to be made up. They
are so thin, and small, and so liable to stick toge-
ther, that it would have taken a man nearly a
whole day to count them. The Turkish dollar,
4£)0 DAMASCUS*
and the rubi, which is a small gold coin, in* value
about half-a-crown, were also in general circula-
tion, but were not issued by the banker.
Before leaving Damascus, when the noble tra-
veller desired the banker to make up his account,,
he sent him the full amount of his letter of credit,
and, with his compliments, added, that if he wanted
more, it was at his service: an instance of very-
great and very unexpected liberality j but of which
the noble traveller had no occasion to avail himself
From Damascus we were extremely anxious ta
go to Palmyra, and, shortly after our arrival, began
to make inquiries as to the best method of travel-
ling thither. Unfortunately for our expedition,
the Arabs in that quarter were in open rebellion
against their Turkish rulers. The Pasha of Da-
mascus had sent an army to suppi'ess the insurrec-
tion, but without effect; on the contrary, the Turks
had sustained a defeat, and their general having
been suspected of treachery, another was sent to
supersede him, who, as is usual on such occasions,
struck off the head of his predecessor, and sent it
to Damascus, where it arrived about two hours
after ourselves. This was the end of the unsuc-
cessful general, who was a man considerably above
seventy years of age, and had hitherto maintained
an unblemished character. The news of the defeat
of the Turks were only whispered in the town,
and the principal men treated it as a matter of no
DAMASCUS. 491
moment. However, they all, with the exception
of the Pasha himself, said we could not go to Pal-
myra. Even the cautious seraff, when out of his
master's hearing, said it was unsafe, and that we
must not attempt it. In speaking of Palmyra, he
always called it Tadmore, the name by which it is
known in Scripture.
Caravans go regularly from Damascus to Bag-
dadt. The journey is between five and six weeks,
and may be performed with perfect safety; and
when we consider that on the banks of the Eu-
phrates and Tigris were formed the first settlements
of mankind, and the first great kingdoms of which
we have any account, it is perfectly amazing how
little they have attracted the attention of modern
travellers. The site of Babylon is characterized
by immense heaps of ruins; nine miles in one di-
rection and five in another have been traversed by
Mr. Rich, who has favored the public wTith two
very interesting memoirs on the subject; much
still remains to be done. Mr. Rich has never dived
beneath the surface; if he had dug more, and cri-
ticised less, the world would have been more obliged
to him. The site of Nineveh is likewise marked
by many ruins; I speak upon the authority of an
intelligent native of the populous town of Mosul,
which occupies the opposite side of the river Tigris.
Indeed the whole of Mesopotamia is comparatively
virgin ground. Where is our love of the arts?
492 DAMASCUS.
The inhabitants of these countries were all idolaters,
and many specimens of early art may be expected
to reward the toil of the explorer.
We are informed in the book of Genesis, that
the beginning of Nimrod's kingdom was Babel,
and Erech, and Accad, and Calneh in the land of
Shinar; out of that land went forth Asshur, and
buildedNineveh, and the city Rehoboth, and Calah,
and Resen between Nineveh and Calah j the same
is a great city. These are the first settlements
mentioned in holy writ, and from the disposition
of the inhabitants, and the unchanging nature of
the climate, it is not at all improbable, that upon a
careful examination, many traces of them might
be found still to exist. The whole country, indeed,
must be full'of ruins and interesting details, which
it is earnestly wished some enterprising traveller
would search out and make known to the world.
Damascus was probably built not long after the
towns above mentioned. It is stated in the 14th
chapter of Genesis, that Abram pursued the con-
federate kings, who had taken his brother Lot, unto
Hobah, which is on the left- hand of Damascus.
This event, according to Hale's chronology, took
place 2070 years before Christ, and 1085 years
after the deluge. This town has been more for-
tunate than most of its cotemporaries; it never
rose so high as Babylon or Nineveh, neither has
it ever fallen so low; it has been often captured,
DAMASCUS. 493
and several times demolished, but has always risen
again to splendor and dignity, and has in all ages
been mentioned as one of the finest and most de-
lightful situations in the world; it may be called
the Florence of Turkey, the flower of the Levant;
it greatly surpasses Grand Cairo, both in cleanliness
and comfort. By the natives of the Eastern world
it is generally called Scham, the meaning of which
is differently explained; some authors consider it
as derived from Shem, the son of Noah, who gave
his name to the whole of Syria, and, according to
the Eastern custom, to this town, which was the
capital of Syria; others maintain that this means
the province or town on the left, as Yemen does
that on the right; but the Hebrew word is Damesk,
from which it passed into the Greek and Latin
languages, and from them into the modern Euro-
pean language, so that Damascus is the more an-
cient name of the two, and the inquiry should
rather be how it came to be called Scham, a name
by which it is not known either in Greek or Latin
authors, and which is more connected with the
history of islamism than with the general history
of nations. It is called in the country Scham
SchereefF, the green, or the noble Damascus, the
mouth of Mecca, from its being the grand recep-
tacle of all the Syrian pilgrims going to Mecca; Jeru-
salem enjoys the same honorable appellation; it is
called Gouts SchereefF, and these are the only two
494" DAMASCUS*
cities that enjoy this distinguished appellation
throughout the whole of the Turkish, or, I should
rather say, the Islamitic world, and both are under
the government of the Pasha of Damascus,
Damascus contains about 12000 Christians of
different sects and denominations. The Greek
patriarch of the Apostolical church of Antioch
generally resides here ; the patriarch of the Syrian
church resides at Mosul, and the whole population
is estimated at 150,000 souls, and among all these
there is neither a reading nor a writing individual;
in Constantinople there are 5 or 600,000 equally un-
instructed, and throughout the whole of the Islamitic
world there are 150 millions, all of the same unsci-
entific and the same unlettered description. Pagan
idolaters throughout the world are said to make
up the vast amount of 600 millions, yet there is
not so much as a literary journal or a newspaper
throughout the whole of this immense population \
no intercourse of thought travelling post in a
legible form from one end of their wide dominions
to the other. The number of Christians is esti-
mated at 170 millions; and how inconsiderable a
portion of these, even among such as can afford it,
value their time as they ought, and give their minds
to intellectual improvement, and their study to
benefit their species! Yet were allmankind, alike
the Mussulman and the Pagan taught Christian
science and Christian charity, which directs us to
DAMASCUS. 495
cultivate our minds, to consider all mankind as
brethren, and God as our common father, religion
and science would encircle the globe like the
breath of heaven; and the traveller would meet an
enlightened friend in every step of his journey, to
delight and refresh his mind with the result of his
meditations, as regularly as he finds a morsel of
food to repair the exhaustion of his mortal frame.
Is there a heart of human mould that would not
offer up its prayers, and tender its efforts to the
consummation of the plan, that is to cover the
earth with such a glorious spectacle, and make the
whole world appear as the garden of the Lord, with
man walking in spiritual brightness, and holding
communion with his Maker as at the first?
We were shown the house of Judas in the street
called Straight, in which Saint Paul lodged after
he had seen the vision, and likewise the house of
Ananias, whom the Lord sent to him to put his
hands upon his eyes that he might recover his sight.
The abode of this early Christian is a small grotto,
situated among poor houses near the Catholic con-
vent, and seems to be held in equal veneration by
Turks and Christians, and is equally a place of
prayer for both. The Mussulmans frequent it
every day, and the Christians say mass in it at
stated times. This community of temples appears
to me very odd, but I have stated what I was told.
The part in the wall is also shown, from which
Saint Paul was let down in a basket to escape the
49G
DAMASCUS.
persecuting jews who watched him at the gate to
kill him. At a small distance from this we are
shown the place where he rested till some of his
friends joined him in his flight; here there is an
altar and seats, and here the superior of the con-
vent said two or three short prayers for the repose
of the Apostle's soul; these places are near the gate
of the city, and near to the place where St. Paul fell
from his horse. There can be no doubt that these
are really the places which they are represented to
be, for the register which records the vely spot in
which Adam was created, could not omit that in
which St. Paul was smuggled away in a basket.
In consequence of our anxiety to visit Palmyra,
we remained longer in Damascus than we had
originally intended, expecting that every day would
bring us the welcome intelligence, that peace was re-
stored between the Arabs and the Turks, and that
the road was clear for us to proceed thither; but
day after day was fraught with reports of fresh hosti-
lities, and tired with expectations, we abandoned
the expedition and prepared for our departure.
I cannot leave the Scham Schereeff, the noble
city of Damascus, without returning to my friend
Ahmet Bey, whose attentions were great and uni-
form. A servant and a couple of horses were
every day at my disposal; however, from my great
occupation in the town, and there being nothing
particularly inviting at a distance, I used them only
once, which was to ride to Salehiyyeh, I visited him
DAMASCUS. 497
every morning, and if, on account of business, I
had omitted to do so, he never failed to send for
me; he was to me the Omar Effendi of Damascus,
and did every thing in his power to make my stay
there comfortable; his present to me on leaving
Damascus consisted of an abba, several pieces of
silk, arid two turbans of India muslin, accompanied
with many entreaties that I would return and take
up my abode in that noble city. The Bey is a man
of considerable powers of thought, but of few words
and limited information. To say that he is at the
head of Damascus literature is only complimenting
a man for being king of Utopia, the sovereign of
that which hath no existence; but to say that he
is one of the most amiable of his species, is to pro-
nounce an eulogy that any man may be gratified to
hear, and which is not more highly colored than
the virtues of the heart fully entitle my Damascus
friend to receive.
vol. 11. k K
[ 498 ]
CHAPTER XXII.
DEPARTURE FROM DAMASCUS ARRIVAL AT BALBEC
MOUNT LEBANON TRIPOLI MALTA CONCLU-
SION.
On the 4th of June, we resumed our journey, and
having passed out by the gate of Salehiy y eh, the whole
cavalcade gradually wound its way up the hill. At
the top of the ascent we turned round, and took a
parting view of Damascus. Palmyra, Aleppo, Bag-
dadt, Babylon, and Persepolis; the banks of the
Euphrates, Tigris, and Orontes, are all behind. It
is with the mind of the traveller, as it was with the
unfortunate GEdipus, however far he may go: " A
little onward still conduct my steps." The eye is
never satisfied with seeing. Almost immediately
under the brow of the hill, but not visible from it,
is the dividing of the waters; the Barrada here is
parted into four streams, one for the town, two for
the gardens, and one for the fields, as already men-
tioned. Our route lay up the course of the Barrada,
which we came in sight of almost immediately on
clearing the pass of the mountain of Salehiyyeh. It
flows through a small narrow valley on the left of
figgi. 499
the road, and its course is marked by trees and
healthy vegetation, which form a striking contrast
with the scorched and scanty herbage on the sides
of the mountain, After travelling for three hours
along this dreary and almost unproductive vale,
we turned to the right at a small cheerful looking
village called Hami, near which we crossed a large
river by a stone bridge, and continued our route
for four hours further through a beautiful and well
cultivated vale, and arrived at the village of Figgi,
so named from being situated at the source of that
river, which is called Ein Figgi, or eye of Fidgi,
being the place where the river springs to light.
Figgi is certainly one of the coolest and shortest
rivers in the world; but it did not quite come up
to the idea that we had formed of it, from the de-
scription that we had received, as being well worth
a ride of seven hours to see.it. It issues from the
limestone rock on the left hand side of the road, a
deep rapid stream of about thirty feet wide; it is
pure and cold as iced water, and after coursing
down a stony and rugged channel for about a hun-
dred yards, falls into the Barrada, where it loses
both its name and its beauty. The water of the
Barrada, like the water of the Jordan, being of a
white sulphureous hue, and an unpleasant taste.
This is probably the Pharpar mentioned in the book
of Kings; as I have written it, it would be pronoun-
ced Varatha throughout the East. Of the other
RK 3
500 sook.
river Abana mentioned there, I could learn no-
thing; but I omitted to inquire the name of the
river which we had passed at the stone bridge at
the village of Hami. There are the remains of a
large substantial building at the source of the
Fidgi, of which we could learn nothing, but that it
was very old, and the situation very fine. In about
three quarters of an hour after out arrival the lug-
gage came up, having travelled by the usual road,
although there was no reason why it might not have
accompanied us.
Next morning we resumed our journey up the
Barrada at seven o'clock; the morning air on the
mountains was cool and bracing, and afforded a
grateful relief from the sultry heat of the town.
After three hours' travelling we came to a very pic-
turesque and remarkable pass called Sook, where
the road is narrowed by the approach of the moun-
tains on each side of the river, and excavations are
cut in the rock, on the right-hand side, in places
that seemed quite inaccessible without the help of
a scaling ladder, or a basket, as at the convent of
Meteora on Mount Athos. Some of the doors are
formed with great care, and have buttresses on each
side, and statues between them, as we had seen at
Absambul. We were not near enough to ascertain
if they were in any other respects allied to Egyp-
tian architecture. Here we crossed the river by a
bridge, which is amazingly picturesque, and in
ZIBDONE. 501
three hours further the valley widened, and exhi-
bited a good deal of cultivation; soon after which
we passed the source of the Barrada, a little below
the pleasantly situated village of Zibdane, passing
which we encamped on a pleasant green, beside a
small stream called Dilla, that runs into the Barrada,
and is nearly as large as it.
This village belongs to my friend Ahmet Bey, and
the air of it is so extremely healthy, that he frequent-
ly withdraws from the heated atmosphere of Damas-
cus, and spends the months of summer in this cool
and delightful retreat, with both the snows of Gibl
Shiekh and Mount Lebanon in view. It contains
between three and four thousand inhabitants. One
part of it stands low, and the other high on the
side of the hill. In the absence of the Bey the vil-
lage is governed by the shiekh Dahr Etel, to whom
I paid a visit in the evening. He came out of his
house, and received me under the shade Gf a spread-
ing tree, and informed me that the snow remained
all the year round on Mount Lebanon, but not on
Gibl Shiekh. On the other side of Damascus I was
told exactly the reverse. Each party seemed to
claim the snowy honors of the year for its respec-
tive mountain. It is my own opinion that it does
not remain all the year round on either of them.
The height of neither of them seems to be above
four or five thousand feet, which is much under
the region of perennial snow in these latitudes, I
£0°i BALBEC.
observed a considerable difference between the
Arabic spoken here and in Damascus, which con-
sisted chiefly in dropping the final letter, and pro*
nouncing u as au. Zibdane is half way between
Damascus and Balbec.
Next day, the 6th of June, we travelled only two
hours, and stopped for the night at Zurgeia, a vil-
lage about half the size of Zibdane.
The following day we resumed our journey about
nine o'clock, and after travelling for about two hours
among the hills, which were partly cultivated, but
chiefly in pasture, we entered a barren rocky val-
ley, which we were three hours in crossing; the
route lay in a north-west direction. At the top of
the valley we passed an ancient cemetery on the
summit of the hill on our left, from which we de-
scended into a delightful verdant spot, intersected
by numerous streams of water, and pitched our
tents close by a spreading willow, in the neighbor-
hood of a large ruined mosque, and some wel cul-
tivated gardens, about three quarters of a mile from
the ruins of Balbec.
On walking to the higher ground the ruins of
the ancient city presented themselves, stretching
out on the right and on the left of the road. A
little forward the conduits come into view, still
faithful to their charge of conveying copious streams
of excellent water all over the town. The houses
are completely overturned, and the stones lying in
BALBEC 503
heaps, the walls remain in several places, and have
never been strong; they have been about four
miles in circumference, including both sides of the
stream. The present village stands in the lower
part of the ruins, and we approached it through a
ruined mosque, which has in the court a fountain
of excellent water. Below the village are the re-
mains of several ruined temples, with highly wrought
cornices, and all of them evidently of Roman ar-
chitecture.
The grand ruin, however, to which the place
owes its celebrity, stands on the edge of the low
ground, without the precincts of the ruined town.
It is encircled by a small stream of water, which
afterwards flows through the valley, and is called
the Letani. It is a large unwieldy mass of building,
in the form of an irregular square, which is narrow-
est at the north end, and is perforated by a num-
ber of arched vaults, which are greatly obstructed
with rubbish. The outer walls are very much shat-
tered, and exhibit only the repairs of former walls
very badly executed. These outer walls have evi-
dently been built at two separate periods, and by
two separate people practising different modes of
architecture. The most ancient parts are chiefly on
the south and on the west, and are most abundant
in the south-west corner of the wall, where some of
the stones that rest upon the ground are ten paces
long, others are nine paces long, ten feet broad, and
504» BALBEC.
six feet thick. They are cut with the bevelled edge
exactly like the cutting of the stones in the subteiv
ranean columns of the Haram Schereeff in Jerusa-
lem, which I have stated to be of Jewish workman-
ship* Indeed the similarity of the workmanship
struck me forcibly, and I am disposed to refer them
jboth to the same people, and nearly to the same
era. The stones are cqpipact limestone, which is
the common stone of the country, and the soil of
age with which they are covered, compared with
the other parts of the building, which are decidedly
Roman, would warrant our preferring them to the
remote period of eight and twenty hundred years,
the era of Solomon the king of Israel and Judah,
who built Hamath and Tadmore in the desert.
The second builders of this enormous pile have
built upon the foundations of the former building,
and, in ofder that the appearance of the whole
might seem to be of one date, they have cut a new
surface upon the old stones. This operation has not
been completely finished, and some of the stones re-
main half cut, exhibiting part of the old surface and
part of the new, §o that the different eras of the
building are exemplified in the same stone. We
measured two of the stones near the south-west
corner in the south wall; one of them was sixty-
seven feet long, nearly fourteen feet broad, and
nine feet thick y the other was sixty-four feet long:
we could not measure the breadth and thickness.
BALBEC. 505
There is a third stone apparently of the same di-
mensions. These have been partly cut for a new-
surface, and partly not They are, perhaps, the
most ponderous masses that human hands or human
machinery ever moved into a wall, and here they
are between twenty and thirty feet above the founda-
tion. Indeed, I am not acquainted with any build-
ing, except the one under consideration, where we
can find stones the half of the above dimensions, or
even the fourth of it. The northern wall of Jeru-
salem, which Josephs says was built of stones thirty
feet long, has long since been destroyed, and every
stone broken to pieces. In the pyramids of Egypt
we saw one or two stones eighteen feet long, and at
Koom Ombos measured one of twenty-three feet;
but these are but occasional blocks introduced for
purposes of particular security; but a whole wall, or
a whole building, of nearly four hundred feet a side,
constructed of stones from thirty to sixty feet long,
is something more than Cyclopean; the labors of
Hercules were but a joke to this. However, I am
not disposed to think that these immense blocks
formed any part of the original wall; they do not
harmonize with that which is around them, and the
part which is below them is the repaired, and not
the original wall. Most probably they were intend-
ed for stone columns to serve some ornamental pur-
pose in the interior. The great disproportion of
their length to their breadth and thickness, their
506
BALfcEC,
being all in the same part of the wall, and there
being none like them in any other part of the build-
ing, seem to authorise the supposition. The place
which they occupy in the wall is nearly on a level
with the floor of the interior of the building, and
hence they were edged into it by the repairer, who
knew no better use for them. The northern part
of this outside wall is more modern, and, in my
opinion, Roman. The stones are much smaller,
and it is vaulted below to support the floor within,
the southern part seems to be banked up with
earth and stone, without arches. So much for the
shell of this magnificent structure, whifch has evi-
dently been a wall of defence to protect the preci-
ous structures within. These we approach over an
arched bridge, and many fragments of the ruined
walls. The floor in the interior is raised by arches
and embankments, between twenty and thirty feet
above the level of the surrounding ground, and
is completely covered with the ruins of ancient
temples, which have been all of the Corinthian or-
der of architecture, and built of a coarse species of
marble. Many fragments of large-grained red gra-
nite lie scattered about in different places, and the
whole interior of the walls is one continued series
of architectural decoration of pilasters and cornices
of the most minute workmanship, succeeding each
other; and all round there have been chapels and
niches for setting up images, and places for the vo-
BALBEC. 507
taries to perform their devotions. Besides this pre-
paration for the general rites of Pagan idolatry,
there are the remains of several temples for the rites
of particular deities. One of these is seen from the
road over a breach in the wall; it is peripteral
and hypethral, and appears at one time to have
been used as a Christian church ; both columns and
walls still remain. Of another temple there are
only six columns, and of others merely the substruc-
tions. On the north side of the building there are
several apartments, which were probably used for
the accommodation of the hierarchy. The whole
fitting up of the interior must have been extremely
elegant, and bears evident marks of Roman work-
manship, though I cannot assign any exact date
either as to when it was reconstructed, or when it
was overthrown; though I think it most probable
that it was rebuilt in the time of Hadrian, and de-
stroyed by the Saracens. There is one large stone
covered with an Arabic inscription, which might
throw some light on the subject, but that I was un-
able to read, and had not time to procure a person
to read it for me.
The field around this stately edifice is rich, and
well cultivated, and presented an excellent crop of
barley. On the w^est and on the south, it has been
carefully levelled, and formed into large platforms;
and the effects of the former improvement are still
visible in the magnificent walnut-trees, and crops
508 BALBEC.
of barley with which it is covered; but the general
aspect of the country is barren and unproductive,
Balbec appears to have been the original name
which the Greeks translated into their language by
Heliopolis, which means the same thing—city of
the sun. The Romans adopted the Greek name,
and the word Balbec is not to be found in any an-
cient author. However, the language of the country
has preserved the ancient appellation, while the
Greek and Roman translation has perished with
their dominion. It stands in a delightful situation,
on the eastern verge, and near the head of the
vale of Beka, which leads down in a south-west
direction to Tyre, and opens by a narrow pass in
an easterly direction upon the Orontes, communi-
cating with Tadmore, Hamath, and Mesopotamia;
and must have been a great thoroughfare, and
depot for trade, when Babylon and Nineveh, Tyre
and Sidon, possessed the commerce of the world,
By the Greek and Roman authors, the whole track
is called Celosyria, and the mountains which run
between this valley and the sea, are called Libanus,
and those which run between it and Damascus,
Anti-libanus, merely from being on the opposite side
of the valley. Though more correctly, I think the
whole track between Lebanon and Gibl Shiekh
entitled to be called Celosyria, and Gibl Shiekh
itself Anti-libanus. But such a nomenclature is
the mere conceit of Greek and Roman authors;
BALBttC. 509
they are not known in the country, and there is
no foundation for them in the nature of the place.
The present population of Balbec is about 500
souls, the greater part of whom are Mussulmans;
there is besides a number of Syrian and Greek
Christians. My principal intercourse Was with the
latter, whom I found remarkably civil. The bazars,
which scarcely deserve the name, are few, and ill
provided with articles of convenience, or even ne-
cessity.
We resumed our journey on the 9th, having spent
one whole day at Balbec > at half past eight in the
morning, we passed that noble ruin which I have
just been describing, and set forward through the
vale of Beka, towards Mount Lebanon. At every
step in the commencement of our journey, we saw
some aged relic, some well cut stone, the half obli-
terated verge of some ancient terrace, or the mag-
nificent walnuts which they supported, to remind
us of the former grandeur, and the present ruin of
the place. In about three quarters of an hour we
come to a small village, of which, strange as it may
appear, I could not learn the name, though I in-
quired it at several of the inhabitants ; sometimes
they stared with amazement, as if they did not
understand me, sometimes they repeated my ques-
tion, at other times they took no more notice of it
than if I had not spoken to them, and seemed as
reluctant to give it as if I had been going to bewitch,
<51G At.
or write a sentence of condemnation against them.
In about half an hour further, we passed an ancient
monumental column on the left, standing alone, at
a little distance from the road. Maundrell states
that he passed it on his right; but he missed his
way, having proceeded too far down the valley,
before he entered the mountain foreground. An-
other hour's travelling brought us to the village of
At or Ad, which stands on the mountain fore-
ground. We had now completely crossed the vale
of Beka, which we judged to be about six miles
broad. It seemed to widen considerably on our
left. It was partially cultivated, and very thinly
inhabited. Large fields of it were lying quite in a
state of nature, as if it had never undergone the
operation of the plough, and the crops on those
parts that were cultivated, promised but an indif-
ferent return to the labors of the husbandman.
A
Having passed the village of At, we ascended slowly
the mountain foreground, which we traversed in a
turning and winding direction, among shrubs and
flowers, that but half covered the surface of the
red earth. After three hours' fatiguing march
through this rugged scenery, we passed the ruins
of an ancient village, and plunged into a deep narrow
stony vale, where the rock was cut down on each
side, and hollowed out, as if it had once been the
bed of a mighty torrent. Here we encamped for
the night, beside a small stream of water, and a
-MOUNT LEBANON. oil
beautiful spreading walnut tree, that had lent its
shade to many a traveller. We are now at the base
of the snow-crowned Lebanon, and streams of water,
formed by the melting of the snow, are pouring
down from it into the vale, in a thousand channels*
The natives call Mount Lebanon, Gibl Leban, and
include in that appellation Gibl Shiekh, and the
whole mountainous track from the Mediterranean
to the Jordan. The distinction of Libanus and
Anti-libanus is unknown among them.
Next morning, the 10th, we began to climb the
mountain: the ascent is steep, but we traversed it
in a turning and winding direction, and travelled
on without any difficulty. We passed several deep
trenches that had evidently been formed by ava-
lanches from the sides of the mountain, and after
travelling for about an hour and ten minutes, we
arrived at the snow, which lay only in patches, and
was melting so fast, that in a few days, I have no
doubt, the sun would gild the surface of the naked
mountain. Here we were met by our worthy friend
Shiekh Latouff, whom we had formerly seen at
Reshia, and who, being apprized of our arrival by
a messenger from Balbec, who received two dollars
for his pains, came to meet us at the commencement
of the snow, to conduct us over the mountain. In
half an hour we reached the summit. The cold
was bracing and agreeable, compared with the sul-
try heat reflected from the parched and stony sur-
512 CEDARS OF LEBANON.
face which we had left in the morning. From the
towering height of this snow covered mountain, we
beheld the sea, with clouds hanging over it; the
irregular mountain foreground, that concealed the
plain of Tripoli, and seemed to stretch on to the
ocean; the delightful village of Eden, and numerous
other villages that covered the sides, or occupied
the base, of a deep and fertile ravine, with a pro-
fusion of walnut and mulberry trees; all of which,
seen from the summit of the far-famed Lebanon,
formed a most enchanting prospect, which we quit
with reluctance; reverting the eye, brimful of sor-
row, toward the unseen Nineveh, Bagdadt, and
Babylon, the glory of the ancient world, the boast
of the Saracenic, and the neglect of the present.
The descent is rather precipitous, and winds by
a long circuitous direction, down the side of the
mountain. In a few minutes we came in sight of
the far-famed cedars that lay down before us, on
our right. The natives call them Arsileban. At
first they appeared like a dark spot on the base of
the mountain, and afterwards like a clump of
dwarfish shrubs, that possessed neither dignity nor
beauty, nor any thing to entitle them to a visit,
but the name. In about an hour and a half, we
reached them. They are large and tall, and beau-
tiful, the most picturesque productions of the vege-
table world that we had ever seen. There are in
this little clump two generations of trees: the old-
CEDARS OF LEBANON. 513
est are large and massy, rearing their heads to an
enormous height, and spreading their branches afar.
We measured one of them, which we afterwards
saw was not the largest in the clump, and found
it thirty-two feet in circumference. Seven of these
trees have a particularly ancient appearance, the
rest are younger, but equally tall, though, for want
of space, their branches are not so spreading ; yet
the spectator views them with an elevation and
warmth of heart, and feels as if he were introduced
to the venerable dscendants of an illustrious family,
who, tired with the persecution and assaults of for-
tune, had taken up their abode in this sequestered
and sunny spot, which they hallow by their presence,
where they grow uncontaminated, and look with a
lordly pre-eminence over the ground, which in better
days, their ancestors called their own. The clump
is so small that a person may walk round it in half
an hour. The old cedars are not found in any other
part of Lebanon. Young trees are occasionally met
with; they are very productive, and cast many
seeds annually. The surface all round, is covered
with rock and stone, with a partial, but luxuriant
vegetation, springing up in the interstices,
After an excellent collation, which was provided
for us by our worthy shiekh, we took leave of the
cedars of Lebanon, and proceeded on our way to
the village of Eden.
The road was rugged and stony, and lay along
VOL. II. L L
514 EDEN.
the side of the hill by the foot of the mountain-
ridge that bounds the valley on the north, and, being
high, commanded an extensive and delightful pro-
spect. No Mussulman is allowed to reside in this
quarter of Mount Lebanon; it is entirely occu-
pied by Christians and Druses. In some parts the
one prevails, in others the other. Prince Bushir,
who governs the country, is of the latter persua-
sion, and resides at Dair el Gamer, which is about
fifteen miles to the south; but he exercises no
greater authority over his Christian subjects than
over those who profess his own religion, and the
parties themselves live peaceably together. The
religion of the Druses is not well known; they are
said to be universalists, and consider all religions
as the same; they are neither Christians nor Mos-
lems, but are said to partake a little of both. They
publish no books, and hardly read or write any;
and, whatever may be their tenets, one thing is
certain, that they have neither enlightened nor
elevated the character of those who profess them.
The prince pays a handsome tribute to the Porte,
on condition that no Mussulman shall enter his ter-
ritory. In two hours and a half we arrived at
Eden, and pitched our tent in a delightful spot on
the east of the village. The whole of this village,
with a considerable portion of land, belongs to
shiekh Latouff and his brother, who reside here
during the summer, and devote themselves to the
EDEN. 515
Cultivation of the silk-worm. In the evening we
received a visit from the bishop, who is a man of
education, and had spent several years at Rome,
and spoke good Italian. He wore a long heard,
which is not much esteemed in Mount Lebanon.
All the shiekhs wear mustachoes, and talk rather
contemptuously of beards, as they do of faces that
are completely shaved. The Christians here are
Maronite Catholics, they acknowledge the su-
premacy of the Pope, but differ from Catholics,
generally so called, in having the Church service
performed in their own language, and in being
monothelites. They derive their name and tenets
from Maroun, a monk of the sixth century.
At the source of the waters, which is a pleasant
and picturesque spot, at a small distance from
the village, we visited a convent, which went
by the name of The Convent of Saint Antonio di
Padua, and which is by many degrees the poorest
and dirtiest convent I ever beheld. There is a
small portion of ground attached to it, which the
holy fathers, whom I think I might be permitted
here to call the holy lubbers, cultivate with their
own hands, and neither their dress, nor appearance,
learning, nor accommodation, exceed that of or-
dinary laborers. This is a disgrace to themselves,
or to the people among whom they reside. They
should either quit the office, or maintain it respect-
ably. All monasteries, in my opinion, are bad in-
l L 2
516 EDEtfr
stitutions; but while they exist they ought not to
be parish poor-houses* Our friend, the Bishop,,
was also miserably accommodated, in a small house
in the village \ but it was clean, and he seemed a
happy man; the poor monks certainly did not.
The houses of the shiekhs have good substantial
walls, but the best rooms are generally occupied by
the silk-worms, and are rarely in a state fit to re-
ceive human beings. In visiting the brother-in-law
of our worthy ^hiekh, who is accounted one of the
richest men in the country, we were received on
carpets spread under a tree, and presented with the
usual fare of pipes, coffee, and lemonade. Smoking
tobacco is not so much abused here as among the
Turks, it is employed more as a general luxury to
regale their friendly meetings than as a constant
and daily exercise, as regularly performed as their
stated prayers, or necessary meals of the Moslems.
We remained two days in Eden, and, on the
13th of June, set out for Tripoli, accompanied by
our friend shiekh Latouff. The distance is seven
hours arid a half, and by many degrees the most
impracticable road I ever travelled. It is rocky
and precipitous, and, for about five hours, a con-
tinued and harassing descent, after which, it im-
proved, and the plantations of mulberry trees about
the villages, or in the bottom of the narrow dells,
were extremely beautiful. In about an hour fur-
ther we arrived at the village Zgarti, which is the
EDEN, 517
winter residence of the two respectable shiekhs of
Eden, and is delightfully situated on the bend of
the river Reshin, which is here augmented by the
influx of two tributary streams, the Jonrti and
Abouali. The water is of a white chalky color, re-
sembling the rocks that lie between it and Eden.
From Zgarti to Tripoli, the distance is an hour and
ahalf, and the ride extremely pleasant, over an undu-
lating surface, covered with olive trees; the soil, ge-
nerally speaking, has not sufficient depth to admit
of cultivation, and the shade of the olive prevents
the evaporation of moisture. We crossed the river
by a stone bridge, without a parapet, and in about
half an hour came to the edge of the rocky flat,
where we had an excellent view of Tripoli, situ-
ated close at its base, on the edge of a fine allu-
vial plain, which spreads out between it and the
sea, and is divided into gardens, shaded with the
%, the walnut, the mulberry, and the pomegran-
ate. We passed the town, and proceeded through
the plain, and pitched our tents close upon the
beach, at a short distance from the Marino. The
Ospray was riding in the bay to carry us to Europe,
and our friends came on shore to welcome our
arrival a little beyond the town.
There is no connexion by houses between the
Marino and Tripoli, but there is a constant tho-
roughfare of passengers going to and from, walk-
ing, or riding on horses, asses, or mules.
The women here wear the large white upper
518 TRiroLi,
garment, and cover their faces with a dark-colored
handkerchief. The men wear the long robes, the
striped abba, and the caftan, which they call gam-
bess, and the silk turban already described, the
sash round the waist is charged with the dagger,
and pistols, and a sword is slung round the should-
ers. The same distinction prevails between the
dresses of Turks and Christians as in other places.
The gay colors, the yellow slippers and the white
turbans belong to the former j the grave colors, the
red boots, and the blue robes tp the latter. But
the Turks, although they are in possession of the
supreme power, are not so much dreaded in Tri-
poli as in other parts of Syria, neither is their re-
ligion so much respected by the Christians. Several
times in passing between the town and our encamp-
ment I have seen the Christian boys praying in
ridicule of the Mahometans, calling out the same
words, and performing the same genuflexions with
them. This could not have been done in Damas-
cus, Jerusalem, or Cairo; but here the great strength
of the Christians emboldens the youth on the one
hand, and the government overlook what would
otherwise be considered as an insult.
Tripoli is an ancient city, though it possesses no
remains of antiquity. It is mentioned by Strabo,
who derives the name from its having three cities
connected with it, Tyre, Sidon, and Aradus, pro-
bably as its founders.
It is stated that Kelaun, king, or rather governor
TRIPOLI. -519
of Egypt, took it from the Franks in 1289, when
he demolished it entirely, and built the present
city. In the language of the country it is called
Trablous. It is built after the Arab fashion, with
fountains before the houses as in Damascus, and
the natives are extremely anxious that it should be
acknowledged alarger and a finer town than it, which
certainly is not the case. The population was stated
to me at 14,000, but I should imagine that it con-
tained more than twice that number. The houses
are good, and whitened, and the whole town has
a light and clean appearance; the streets are nar-
row, irregular, and badly paved; the bazars are
few, and but indifferently stocked with commodi-
ties. A number of cafes are situated on the banks
of the river which runs through the edge of the
town, and are pleasant, because they are cool; but
are in no respect equal to the cafes in Damascus.
The fruit is in great profusion, and of the same
description; but I think the lousi of Eden much
higher flavored than those of Damascus. Iced
water is equally abundant, and equally esteemed.
There is a Roman catholic convent in Tripoli,
though but few Christians of that persuasion; the
Greek Christians are more numerous, and the
Maronite still more so; all of them have convents.
There is an English, and a French consul in
Tripoli; the former of whom is a very old man, and
seems to be always asleep; he had lately married a
520 TRIPOLI.
young Arab girl for his wife, who immediately laid
aside the veil, walked about in the company of
gentlemen, and received visiters, as the ladies do
in Europe.
We have now finished our Syrian tour, and are
prepared to leave this charming country, where
Heaven showers his bounty with a liberal hand on
the earth, and in the sky; but where man neglects
to profit by the boon, and raise himself to heaven.
The shiekh of the caravan, the soldier, the inter-
preter, the servants, the tent pitchers, are all paid
off} they have performed their task, and now plod
their way back to their several homes. On the
morning of the 17th, our tents were all struck,
and by twelve o'clock we got on board, and imme-
diately set sail for the isle of Paros. Our first ope-
ration, after entering our cabins, was to shave our
beards and mustachoes, to lay aside our Turkish
robes, and to exhibit our natural dimensions in the
light and comfortable garb of Europeans. We
hardly knew our naked faces in the glass, and were
known to each other as old acquaintances with
whom we felt inclined to talk over all that had oc-
curred since the last time we had met.
On the 18th, we were opposed by a contrary
wind, and compelled to wedge our way by tedious
and traverse sailing. On the 24th we lost sight of
Cyprus; on the 28th we were beating up a breast
pf Rhodes through a heavy sea; on the 30th, we
NAUSA.
521
passed Cape Crio and Stanchio, and were hailed
by a schooner bearing for Crete; on the 2d of
July, we had a distant glimpse of the barren island
of Patmos where St. John wrote the Revelations*
On the morning of the 3d, we passed the pictu-
resque and memorable Naxos, where the ungallant
Theseus abandoned the unfortunate Ariadne. After
which, a few minutes brought us to Nausa the
harbor of Paros, where we anchored in the same
station that we had occupied the year before. A
slave ship had passed into the bay a little before us,
which had left Tripoli in Africa about ten days
before, and was bound for Constantinople with a
cargo of female slaves; they were all in good
health and excellent habit of body, and many of
them had small and handsome features; they
seemed perfectly happy and resigned to their fate,
and were laughing and running about, Catching
grasshoppers, and amusing themselves on shore
with the most perfect unconcern. So easily moulded
is the human heart to circumstances, that there is
no situation in which we can be placed, that time
will not render tolerable. The anguish of having
parted with home, with father and mother, and
sister and brother, and friends, had had ten days to
soften into tranquillity, and the inability to alter
or control had reconciled them to their fate; a
little liberty on shore, had restored their youthful
spirits, and happily made them forget their degraded
522 NAUSA.
condition. Night closes in, and they are reminded
of their bondage, all are hurried on board the
vessel, and huddled up together like cattle in a
pinfold. What monsters are slave merchants, slave
drivers, and kidnappers, and all the dealers in hu-
man flesh! Let them be exiled from society, and
no peace or intercourse held with them, till the
scandalous traffic be utterly abolished, and the
enslaved set free. The boon of freedom the
bondman owes to England, and the emancipated
heart will feel, and the emancipated tongue will
tell to future times, that an English senator had
the courage and the Christianity to lend his genius
and his labor to unshackle the unfortunate African,
by teaching a mercenary world that the color of
the skin is neither vice nor virtue in the wearer;
that man claims humanity from man, to be paid
for the labor of his hands, and freely to enjoy the
air of heaven, which God hath freely spread around
him.
The navy waters in the Bay of Nausa. It has
a safe and well sheltered anchorage, but there is no
land accommodation, and hardly a purchaseable
commodity in the place; not so Paroikia, or, as
it is there pronounced, Parekia, which is the other
harbor of Paros; but it is little frequented by
shipping on account of the inferiority of its harbor.
We remained four days in the harbor of Parekia,
from which we sailed for Delos on the 9th, and
MILO.
>23
thence on the 15th for Milo, anciently Melos,
where we arrived at four p. m. of the same day;
the distance is about seventy miles. As we passed
the islands of Serpho, Syra, and Argentiera, the
pleasant looking villages along their sloping cliffs
reminded us of our approach to Christian countries
and to Christian habits. The half forgotten sound
of bells, announcing the welcome return of the
weekly sabbath, and pealing in the hour of public
prayer, surprized and delighted us, and called up
many recollections of our native home; such a
call to the house of God is not permitted in
Turkey, where Christians and Moslems dwell pro-
miscuously together; but in many islands of the
Archipelago, where the inhabitants are entirely
Christian, and pay for their privileges, they are
summoned to the house of prayer by bells, in the
same manner as in Christian Europe.
The entrance to the harbor of Milo is bold and
picturesque; two large masses of rock project a
little from the island on the left. The town of
Castro with a castle to guard the entrance, stands
hiffh on the summit of the rock, on the same side.
The bay is deep, and runs almost quite through
the island; the anchorage is good, but there is no
town close to the bay in any part; at the head of
the bay the ground is low, and infested with malaria,
yet here with a matchless perversity, still stands
the principal town of Milo, about two miles from
524 CASTRO.
the shore. We did not visit it, but were informed
by the inhabitants of Castro, whom good sense
has directed to choose a healthy situation for their
residence, that the town of Milo is extremefy un-
wholesome, and that the countenances of the peo-
ple who dwell in it are as white as chalk. There
are about five hundred families in the whole island,
and the whole population is estimated at about
2000 souls. On the 16th, we procured horses,
and rode to Castro; the road lay up a steep ascent
on which we observed many masses of obsidian.
The whole mountain is volcanic, and the effects of
its action are seen in the theatre which lies between
the town and the entrance of the harbor, and which
has been completely buried by a shower of vol-
canic ashes. A few steps of it have been unco-
vered on one side, they consist of the marble of
the island, and are fresh and uninjured.
At Castro the air is good, and the people are
healthy, the village is small, the houses are built of
stone, and the streets are very irregular. It is the
best place to obtain pilots for the Archipelago. By
the time that we returned to the vessel our water-
ing was completed, and we weighed anchor at four
p. m. and beat out of the harbor. Nothing can be
more delightful than the prospect which the travel-
ler enjoys in going into, and coming out, of the dif-
ferent harbors in the Archipelago. That of Milo
is pre-eminent; when out at sea, and looking back
milo* 525
to the lofty and picturesque situation of Castro, the
conical mountains, and steeps on each side of the
bay, surrounded by the clustering cyclades, and
lighted up with the softened glow of the evening
sun, the soul is delighted and refined, and the eye
is never tired with gazing on the scene. Small
Greek vessels with white sails, and finely painted
hulls, are constantly passing and repassing, going
to and from their respective islands. One vessel
brushes up under a favorable gale, with all her stun
sails set; another is quite becalmed, and anxiously
looking out for a breeze; while a third is scudding
along the shore, and catching a wind from the land
that sends it merrily forward on its course. Such
scenes of activity, mingled with the recollection of
their ancient grandeur, holds the mind in a state of
pleasing and continual enchantment.^
From Milo it was the intention of the noble tra-
veller to have sailed for Athens, and to have ex-
tended his tour to those parts of Greece which he
had not been able to visit the year before ; but the
plague was again raging in Libadia and Attica;
even Athens itself was supposed to be infected.
Not wishing to close with such an enemy of our
race, all thoughts of returning to Athens were there-
fore abandoned, and we steered directly for Malta.
On the morning of the 17th, we were off Cape
St. Angelo; the rock is bold and irregular, and of a
reddish hue. The island of Cerigo, the ancient
326 ARRIVAL AT MALTA,
Cythera, where Venus sprung from the froth of the
sea, is less rugged in appearance than any of the
islands. It contains a number of houses, and ex-
hibits considerable cultivation; but is, upon the
whole, a barren looking residence for the Queen of
Love and Beauty. In the Saronic Gulf the wind
began to head us, and when we reached Cape Me-
tapan we were six points off our course. On the
19th, the wind became favorable, and during the
night we went three or four knots an hour. This
continued during the 20th, and ah the 21st the
weather was particularly pleasant, and the sea so
smooth, that though we were going at the rate of
four knots an hour, it was impossible to tell, when
we were below, that the vessel was moving. This
continued also during the 22d, and on the 23d at
noon we arrived in the quarantine harbor at Malta,
and had a quarantine of 15 days assigned us. Here
I left the noble family, and here I close the narra-
tive of the extensive tour which I had the honor
of performing in their company, and which through-
out had really been a journey of pleasure. One
unfortunate sailor, in a state of intoxication, was
drowned in the harbor of Malta, on the outgoing;
but, saving that, not one accident befel any of the
party. Our numbers were not thinned by death,
nor our comforts abridged by disease. All return-
ed in excellent health, delighted with the voyage
that they had achieved, and fully satisfied, that if
CONCLUSION. 527
they had travelled to the world's end, they would
not have found a place where man is so eminently
raised amid this vast creation, where he enjoys so
many political and religious privileges, as in Eng-
land. The proper effect of such an envied posses-
sion should not be to make her citizens proud, for-
getful of themselves, and disdainful to others; but
to make them value the means by which they have
attained the lofty pre-eminence, and to teach their
descendants to run the same virtuous race; that
men of after-times may say to them, as the Sche-
reeff in Jerusalem said to us, "We believe the
word of an Englishman, because an Englishman
speaks the truth." Keep that which is committed
to your trust—the character acquired for you by
your ancestors.
END OF THE SECOND VOLUME*
G. WOODFALL, PRINTER,
ANGEL COURT, SRINNER STREET, LONDON.
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