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OF THE
rtrºnºliºſitiºnſ
THIS BOOK
FORMS PART OF THE
ORIGINAL LIBRARY
OF THE
UNIVERSITY OF MICHICAN
|838 TO 1839
BY
ASA GRAY
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BOUGHT IN EUROPE
IIIIIIIIIIIIITITHITHITIT

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£--~
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Q- º Tº
v O Y A G E
IN SEARCH OF
. Z
LA PEROUSE,
º Performed by order of
** * .
HE constituent Assembly,
DURING
* THE YEARs 1791, 1792, 1793, AND 1794,
} .
- A N D D R AW N U P
BY M. LABILLARDIERE,
CORRESPONDENT OF THE ACADEMY OF SCIENCES AT PARIS, MEMBER or
THE SOCIETY OF NATURAL HISTORY, AND ON E OF THE
NATURALISTS ATTACHED TO THE EXPEDITION.
—s e-º-e
* º
sº. TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH.
2-
ILLUSTRATED with Forty-six PLATES.
LONDON :
PRINTED FOR John STOCKDALE, PiccADILLY.
- - - + tºmº
". . . ~ - - 18OO
- º
* > t

‘K & tirt, Printer, Sali ºurs S quare.
TO
ROBERT PEEL, ESQ.
MEMBER OF PARLIAMENT FOR THE BOROUGH OF TAMWORTH,
&c. &c. &c.
Who, by his Ingenuity, Abilities, and Induſtry, has honourably acquired a
princely Fortune, and in ſo doing had the Satisfaction of keeping
ſeveral thouſand Perſons in conſtant Employment :
Who, in the Time of Danger and National Difficulty, handſomely appro-
priated the munificent Sum of
TEN THOUSAND POUNDS,
TO THE EXIGENCIES OF HIS COUNTRY ;
And whoſe Conduct, in promoting AN UNION witH IRELAND,
has ſhone ſo nobly diſintereſted :
THIS WORK,
AS A SMALL MARK OF RESPECT AND ESTEEM,
IS IIUMBLY DEDICATED,
By his ever obliged, obedient,
_{nd faithful Friend and Servant,
John Stockda/e,
Iondon, 6th May, 1800.
TRANSLATOR’s PREFACE.
*}{- ©e---
HE laudable taſte for Voyages and Travels, which prevails in the
preſent age, has been gratified with many excellent productions,
which render that ſpecies of literature highly intereſting to readers of al-
moſt every deſcription. Modern voyages of diſcovery have embraced ſo
many objećts, that in them the Navigator ſees the progreſs of his impor-
tant art, the Geographer obſerves the improvement of his kindred
ſcience, the Naturaliſt is gratified with curious and uſeful obječts of re-
ſearch, the Merchant diſcovers new ſcenes of commercial enterpriſe, and
the General Reader finds a fund of rational entertainment.
The Moral Philoſopher, too, who loves to trace the advances of his
ſpecies through its various gradations from ſavage to civilized life, draws
from voyages and travels, the facts from which he is to deduce his con-
cluſions reſpecting the ſocial, intellectual, and moral progreſs of Man.
He ſees ſavage life every where diverſified with a variety, which, if he
reaſon fairly, muſt lead him to conclude, that what is called the ſtate of
nature, is, in truth, the ſtate of a rational being placed in various phyſi-
cal circumſtances, which have contracted or expanded his faculties in va-
rious degrees; but that “men always appear among animals a diſtinct
“ and a ſuperior race; that neither the poſſeſſion of ſimilar organs, nor
“ the uſe of the hand,” which nature has given to ſome ſpecies of apes,
“ nor the continued intercourſe with this ſovereign artiſt, have enabled
“any other ſpecies to blend their nature with his ; that in his rudeſt
&
&
ſtate he is found to be above them, and in his greateſt degeneracy
“never deſcends to their level; that he is, in ſhort, a man in every con-
“dition; and that we can learn nothing of his nature from the analogy
“ of other animals.”* Every where adapting means to ends, and vari-
ouſly altering and combining thoſe means, according to his views and
wants, Man, even when purſuing the gratification of animal inſtincts, too
* Ferguſon on Civil Society. •º.
Often
vi TRANSLATOR's PREFACE.
often miſerably depraved, ſhows himſelf to be poſſeſſed of nobler facul-
tics, of liberty to chuſe among different objects and expedients, and of
reaſon to direct him in that choice. There is ſufficient variety in human
aćtions to ſhow that, though Man ačts from motives, he acts not mecha-
nically, but frecly; yet ſufficient ſimilarity of condućt, in ſimilar circum-
ſtances, to prove the unity of his nature. Hence there appears no ground
whatever for ſuppoſing, that any one tribe of mankind is naturally of
an order ſuperior to the reſt, or has any ſhadow of right to infringe,
far leſs to abrogate, the common claims of humanity. Philoſophers
ſhould not forget, and the moſt reſpectable modern philoſophers have
not forgotten, that the ſavage ſtate of the moſt civilized nations now
in Europe, is a ſubject within the pale of authentic hiſtory, and that
the privation of iron alone, would ſoon reduce them nearly to the bar-
barous ſtate, from which, by a train of favourable events, their forefathers
emerged ſome centuries ago. If the limits of a preface would allow us
to purſue the reflections ſuggeſted by the different views of ſavage life,
preſented by this and various other ſcientific voyages, it would be eaſy to
ſhow, that the boaſted refinement of Europe cntirely depends on a few
happy diſcoveries, which are become ſo familiar to us, that we are apt to
ſuppoſe the inhabitants of theſe parts of the world to have been always
poſſeſſed of them ; diſcoveries ſo unaccountable, and ſo remote from any
experiments which uncivilized tribes can be ſuppoſed to have made, that
we cannot do better than acknowledge them among the many precious
gifts of an indulgent Providence.
Having mentioned Providence, a word not very common in ſome of
our modern voyages, we are tempted to add a conſideration which has
often occurred to our minds, in contemplating the probable iſſue of that
zeal for diſcovering and correſponding with diſtant regions, which has long
animated the maritine powers of Europe. Without obtruding our own
Jentiments on the reader, we may be permitted to aſk, Whether appear-
ances do not juſtify a conjecture, that the Great Arbiter of the deſtinies
of nations may render that zeal ſubſervient to the moral and intellectual,
not to ſay the religious, improvement, and the conſequent happineſs, of
Ollſ
TRANSLATOR's PREFACE. vii
our whole ſpecies? or, Whether, as has hitherto generally happened, the
advantages of civilization may not, in the progreſs of events, be transferred
from the Europeans, who have but too little prized them, to thoſe re-
mote countries which they have been ſo diligently exploring If ſo, the
period may arrive, when New Zealand may produce her Lockes, her
Newtons, and her Monteſquieus; and when great nations in the im-
menſe region of New Holland, may ſend their navigators, philoſophers,
and antiquaries, to contemplate the ruins of ancient London and Paris,
and to trace the languid remains of the arts and ſciences in this quarter
of the globe. Who can tell, whether the rudiments of ſome great fu-
ture empire may not already exiſt at Botany Bay ?
But, not to detain the reader with ſuch general refle&tions, which,
however, open intereſting views to contemplative minds, we proceed to
ſay a few words of the work now preſented to the Public. And here we
need to do little more than refer to the learned and ingenious Author's
introdućtion to his own work. The reader will immediately perceive
that, if it has been tolerably executed, it muſt form a valuable Supple-
ment to the Voyage” of the unfortunate La Pérouſe—ſo valuable indeed,
that it may fairly be queſtioned, whether that work can be conſidered as
perfect without it.
Of the execution of the work, the reader muſt form his own judg-
ment. He will perhaps agree with us, that the Author writes with the
modeſty and perſpicuity which become a philoſopher, who all along re-
colle&ts that he is compoſing a narrative, and not a declamation. He
has, in our opinion, with great taſte and judgment, generally abſtained
from thoſe rhetorical flouriſhes, which give an air of bombaſt to too
many of the works of his countrymen, even when treating of ſubjects
which demand accuracy rather than ornament. Moſt of his reflections
are pertinent and juſt, and not ſo far purſued as to deprive the reader of
an opportunity of exerciſing his ingenuity by extending them farther.
This chaſte and unaffected manner of writing may be conſidered as an
* Printed for Stockdale, London, in two large vols. 8vo. with fifty-one fine Plates.
It muſt be obſerved, that this is the only edition to which are annexed the intereſting
Travels of De Leſſeps, over the Continent, from Kamtſchatka, with Pérouſe's diſpatches.
interna
vi TRANSLATOR's PREFACE.
internal mark of the fidelity of his narrative. He had no weak or de-
formed parts to conceal with flowery verbiage, and therefore he rejećted
its meretricious aid. As another, and a ſtill ſtronger proof of our Au-
thor's fidelity, we may mention his occaſional cenſure of the condućt of
Officers, not excepting the Commander in Chief himſelf, when their
conduct happened not to appear quite deſerving of that general approba-
* tion, which he ſeems willing to beſtow. A man muſt be very conſcious
- of having honeſtly executed his own miſſion, and of faithfully deſcribing z"
the objects of it, when he ſcruples not to expreſs publicly his diſappro-
bation of the conduct of Officers of talents and diſtinčtion, engaged in
the higher departments of the ſame great undertaking.
, . In tranſlating the work, the obječt aimed at was to render it ſo lite-
rally as never to depart from the meaning of the Author; yet ſo freely
as not merely to clothe his French idiom with Engliſh words. The
- tranſlation of ſuch a work ſhould, in our opinion, be free without licence,
and literal without ſervility. . . . . . . . . .
... Some readers would, no doubt, have willingly diſpenſed with a great
number of the nautical remarks, and with all the bearings and diſtances;
but thoſe particulars were plainly ſo important to navigators, that they
could not, on any account, be omitted. Nor, indeed, has a fingle ſen-
tence of the original; been retrenched in the tranſlation, except two paſ-
ſages, which would have been juſtly conſidered as indelicate by moſt
Engliſh readers; and, for the ſame reaſon, the two engravings referred
to in the exceptionable paſſages, have been altered. . . . .
The whole of the plates are given in a ſtyle generally not inferior to
the original, which, with the French work in quarto, are ſold for fix
guineas, being thrice the price of the preſent tranſlation.
+ - - - -
**** In the original, the diſtances are all expreſſed in the new French denominations
of metres, decametres, &c. and the Author has given a table for reducing them to toiſes.
But, in the tranſlation, the reader has been ſpared that trouble, by every where inſerting
the equivalent toiſes, or French fathoms. A toiſe is equal to fix French feet, or nearly
to fix feet five inches, Engliſh meaſure : 2,853 toiſes make a geographical or nautical
- league, twenty of which make a degree of a great circle of the earth. Hence, to re-
duce toiſes to nautical leagues, divide them by 2,853, the quotient will be the leagues,
and the remainder the odd toiſes. º
INTRO-
INTRODUCTION.
--> <-36s & eº-
NTO intelligence had been received for three years reſpecting the ſhips
Bouffole and Aſtrolabe, commanded by M. de la Pérouſe, when,
early in the year 1791, the Pariſian Society of Natural Hiſtory called the
attention of the Conſtituent Aſſembly to the fate of that navigator, and
his unfortunate companions.
The hope of recovering at leaſt ſome wreck of an expedition under-
taken to promote the ſciences, induced the Aſſembly to ſend two other
ſhips to ſteer the ſame courſe which thoſe navigators muſt have purſued,
after their departure from Botany Bay. Some of them, it was thought,
might have eſcaped from the wreck, and might be confined in a deſert
iſland, or thrown upon ſome coaſt inhabited by ſavages. Perhaps they
might be dragging out life in a diſtant clime, with their longing eyes con-
tinually fixed upon the ſea, anxiouſly looking for that relief which they
had a right to expect from their country.
On the 9th of February 1791, the following decree was paſſed upon
this ſubjećt:
“ The National Aſſembly having heard the report of its joint Com-
“mittees of Agriculture, Commerce, and the Marine, decrees,
“That the King be petitioned to iſſue orders to all the ambaſſadors,
“ reſidents, conſuls, and agents of the nation, to apply, in the name
“ of humanity, and of the arts and ſciences, to the different Sovereigns
“ at whoſe courts they reſide, requeſting them to charge all their navi-
“ gators and agents whatſoever, and in what places ſoever, but particu-
“ larly in the moſt ſoutherly parts of the South Sea, to ſearch diligently
“ for the two French frigates, the Bouffole and the Aſtrolabe, com-
“ manded by M. de la Pérouſe, as alſo for their fhips' companies, and to
“ make every inquiry which has a tendency to aſcertain their exiſtence
“ or their ſhipwreck ; in order that, if M. de la Pérouſe and his compa-
R “ nions
*
X - INTRODUCTION,
“nions ſhould be found or met with, in any place whatſoever, they may
“ give them every affiſtance, and procure them all the means neceſſary
&&. for their return into their own country, and for bringing with them
“ all the property of which they may be poſſeſſed; and the National
“Aſſembly engages to indemnify, and even to recompenſe, in propor-
“ tion to the importance of the ſervice, any perſon or perſons who ſhall
& & give aſſiſtance to thoſe navigators, ſhall procure intelligence concern-
“ing them, or ſhall be inſtrumental in reſtoring to France any papers
« or effects whatſoever, which may belong, or may have belonged, to
“ their expedition : - * ---
“ Decrees, farther, that the King be petitioned to give orders for the
“fitting out of one or more ſhips, having on board men of ſcience, na-
“turaliſts, and draughtſmen, and to charge the commanders of the ex-
“ pedition. with the two-fold miſſion of ſearching for M. de la Pérouſe,
“ agreeable to the documents, inſtructions, and orders which ſhall be de-
“ livered to them, and of making inquiries relative to the ſciences and to
“ commerce, taking every meaſure to render this expedition uſeful and
& 4. advantageous to navigation, geography, commerce, and the arts and
“ ſciences, independently of their ſearch for M. de la Pérouſe, and even
“ after having found him, or obtained intelligence concerning him.”
Compared with the original, by us the Preſident and Secretaries of
the National Aſſembly, at Paris, this 24th day of February 1791.
(Signed), DUPoRT, Preſident. -
i LIORE, -
} Secretaries.
Boussion,
From my earlieſt years, I had devoted myſelf to the ſcience of natural
hiſtory; and, being perſuaded, that it is in the great book of Nature,
that we ought to ſtudy her produćtions, and form a juſt idea of her
phoenomena, when I had finiſhed my medical courſe, I took a journey
into England, which was immediately followed by another into the Alps,
where the different temperatures of a mountainous region preſent us with
a prodigious variety of objects, - - -
- * , - - I next
INTRODUCTION. xi
I next viſited a part of Aſia Minor, where I reſided two years, in order
that I might examine thoſe plants, of which the Greck and Arabian
phyſicians have left us very imperfeót deſcriptions; and I had the fa-
tisfaction of bringing from that country very important collečtions.
Soon after my return from this laſt tour, the National Aſſembly de-
creed the equipment of two ſhips, in order to atten)pt to recover at leaſt
a part of the wreck of the ſhips commanded by La Pérouſe.
It was an honourable diſtinction to be of the number of thoſe, whoſe
duty it was to make every poſſible ſearch, which could contribute to re-
{tore to their country, men who had rendered her ſuch ſervices.
That voyage was, in other reſpects, very tempting to a naturaliſt.
Countries newly diſcovered might be expected to increaſe our knowledge
with new produćtions, which might contribute to the advancement of
the arts and ſciences.
My paſſion for voyages had hitherto increaſed, and three months ſpent
in navigating the Mediterranean, when I went to Aſia Minor, had given
me ſome experience of a long voyage. Hence I ſeized with avidity this
opportunity of traverſing the South Seas. *
If the gratification of this paſſion for ſtudy coſts us trouble, the varied
produćts of a newly diſcovered region amply compenſate us for all the
ſufferings unavoidable in long voyages.
I was appointed by the Government to make, in the capacity of natu-
raliſt, the voyage of which I am about to give an account.
My Journal, which was kept with care during the whole courſe of the
voyage, contained many nautical obſervations; but I ought to obſerve,
that that part of my work would have been very incomplete, without the
auxiliary labour beſtowed upon it by Citizen Legrand, one of the beſt
officers of our crpedition.
I take this opportunity of teſtifying my grateful remembrance of that
ſkilful mariner, whoſe loſs in the preſent war is a ſubject of regret.
When I was leaving Batavia, in order to proceed to the Iſle of France,
Citizen Piron, draughtſman to the expedition, begged my acceptance of
duplicates of his drawings of the dreſſes of the natives, which he had
JB º made
zii INTRODUCTION.
made in the courſe of the voyage. I do not heſitate to aſſure my readers,
that thoſe works of his pencil are ſtriking likeneſſes. ,
I have endeavoured to report, in the moſt exact manner, the fads
which I witneſſed during this painful voyage, acroſs ſeas abounding with
rocks, and among ſavages, againſt whom it was neceſſary to exert coati-
nual vigilance. . r * *
General Dentrecaſteaux received the command of the expedition.
That officer requeſted from the Government two ſhips of about five hun-
dred tons burden. Their bottoms were ſheathed with wood, and then
filled with ſcupper nails. It was not apprehended that this mode would
diminiſh their velocity, and it was thought that it would add to the ſoli-
dity of their conſtruction. It is, however, acknowledged that ſhips
ſheathed and bottomed with copper may be conſtructed with equal ſoli-
dity, and that they have greatly the advantage in point of ſailing, Thoſe
ſhips received names analogous to the obječt of the enterprize. That in
which General Dentrecaſteaux embarked, was called the Recherche (Re-
ſearch), and the other, commanded by Captain Huon Kermadec, received
the name of the Eſperance (the Hope).
The Recherche had on board one hundred and thirteen men at the
time of her departure : the Eſperance only one hundred and ſix.
ON BOARD OF THE RECHERCHE.”
Principal Officers. Louis Ventenat, ditto, ačting as Chaplain,
Bruny Dentrecaſteaux, Commander of the Expe- Beautems Beaupré, Geographical Engineer,
dition, Piron, Draughtſman, -
Doribeau, Lieutenant, \ Lahaie, Gardener. -
Roſſel, ditto, --- Warrant and Petty Officers &e tº- 8
Cretin, ditto, Gunners and Soldier's º - tº 18
Saint Aignan, ditto, Carpenters - - tº tºº 3
Singler Dewelle ditto, - Caulkers - º º º tºº º 2.
Willaumez ſenior, Enſign, Sail-makers ſº º ſº ſº 2.
Longuerue, Eleve, Pilots - cº sº as - 3
Achard Bonvouloir, ditto, Armourer º | - sº -> - I
Dumerite, Volunteer, Blackſmith gº “º sº ſº tº I.
Renard, Surgeon, Sailors - &º º tº º - 36
Hiacinthe Boideliot, Surgeon's Mate. Young Sailors - - - tº - 3
Letrand, Aſtronomer, Boys - • * = * * 4.
Babillardiere, Naturaliſt, Cook, Baker, &c. * • * - 5
Deſchamps, ditto, Domeſtics. - -> • * = 8
* The name of exery individual on board both the ſhips is inſerted in the original; but it ſeems unneceſſary
to retain any names in this tranſlation but thoſe of the officers and men of ſcience, who, if we may uſe the ex-
preſſion, are the chief dramatis perſone, and ſeveral of them, come forward, in their reſpećtive capacities, in the
courſe of the work-Tranſlator. * * , - - --
INTRODUCTION. xiii
on BOARD THE ESPERANCE.
Principal Officers. Blavier, ditto,
Huon Kermadec, Captain, Jouveney, Geographical Engineer,
Trobiant, Lieutenant, Ely, Draughtſman.
Laſſerly, ditto, Warrant and Petty Officers - * - 8
Lagrandiere, ditto, Armourers gº - - tº iº 2
Luſançay, ditto, Gunners and Marines tº º º I 4.
Lamotte Dupertail, ditto, Carpenters sº - º º sº 2.
Legrand, Enſign, º Blackſmith º - - sº º I
Laignel, ditto, - Caulkers - - º - gº wº 2.
Jurieu, Volunteer, Sail-makers * = * º- - 2.
Boyne, Eleve, Pilots - sº * - ſº º 4.
Jouanet, Surgeon, Sailors {- * * * amº sº. 36
Gauffre, Surgeon's Mate. Boys * us - sº tº tº 5
Pierſon, Aſtronomer, ačting as Chaplain, • Cook, Baker, &c. - - º º wº 5
Riche, Naturaliſt, Domeſtics º - 4- sº - 8
It is melancholy to add, that of two hundred and nineteen people,
ninety-nine had died before my arrival in the Iſle of France. But it muſt
be obſerved, that we loſt but few people in the courſe of our voyage, and
that the dreadful mortality which we experienced was owing to our long
(tay in the iſland of Java.
' ' CONTENTS.
C O N T E N T S.
C H A P. I.
EPARTURE from Breſl—Arrival at St. Croix, in the Iſland of Teneriffe—
Journey to the Peak of Teneriffe—Reſuſcitation of a Sailor who had been
drozºned—Some daring Robbers carry off his Clothes—Two of our Nationaliſ's
are attacked with a ſpitting of Blood, which obliges them to give up their Diſg”
of Proceeding to the Summit of the Peak—Engliſh Jeffe's in the Road of St.
Croix—Different Reſults from the Obſervations made in Order to determine the
J'ariations of the Needle—New Eruption of a Polcano to the South-eaſt of the
P.1% º tºº wº sº “º iſ tº page 17
C H A P. II.
II depart from Teneriffe, and ſet ſail for the Cape of Good Hope—Olſervations—
Splendid Appearance of the Surface of ſhe Sea, produced by phoſphoric Light—
The moſt general Cauſe of the Phoſphoreſcence of the Sea-water aſcertained—Four
of our Sheep which we had brought from Teneriffe are thrown into the Sea—Mo-
derate Temperature of the Atmoſphere near the Line—The Pariation of the Com-
paſs greater on the South than on the North Side of the Equator—Eaſy Method
of rendering ſtagnated JWater freſh—Thick Fog, which cauſes the Mercury in the
Barometer to riſe—Lunar Rainbow—Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope. p. 38
C H A P. III.
-thode at the Cape of Good Hope—Depoſitions of two French Captains, ſhewing
that they had been informed at Batavia by Commodore Hunter of his having ſeen
ſome Perſons at the filmiralty Iſlands, dreſſed in the Uniforms of the French Mi-
rine—Captain Bligh's Joyage from England in Queſt of the Bread-fruit in the
Society Iſlands—Fiolent Gules from the South Eaſt—Local Cauſe of their / iolence
—Slave-trade—Evenirſons amongſ the Mountains in the / icinity of the Town—
Journey of the Fſºul—Joyage tº Fran/the Hoek *º- -º page 57
C H A P, IV.
Departºre from the Cape of Good Hope—Death of the Muſer-Carpenter of the
Recherche—Divers Occurrences—Singular Flight of the Albatroſ –The Iſle of
St. Paul ſeen—Conflagration of its Foreſts—Prodigious Swarms of Iſeºs in our
Ship's Hiſcuit—Piolent Effects of the Surge—The Commander dungerouſly
wounderſ—Luminous Points at the Extremity of the Conductors—Large phoſ.
phor'ſ cut Corpuſcles—h Conſequence of an erroneous Obſervation taken by ſºil-
“wºrs, we enter by Mſake into Tempeſi Bay inſtead of Adventure Bay—Ge-
neral
CONTENTS. X, Y
weral Olſervations upon the Pariations of the Magnetic Needle—Gradual Dimi-
mution of the Phoſphoreſcency of the Iſ aler, proportionate to our Diſſance from the
Land—Courſe of the Currents—Jºe are obliged to heat the Place where otºr
Time-keepers are kept—Anchorage in Port Denfrerºſeaux. page Sl
* C. H. A. P. V.
Abode at Port Den/recaſteaua–Signs of the Coaſt's being frequenſe,/ by the Swººges
Different Evciaſions into the interior Part of the Country–Trees of an enormºus
Heighſ—Excellence of the Soiſ–Black Swans—Large Trunks of Trees, hollowed.
by Fire, ſerve the Natives as Places of Retreat— Kangaroo-Olſervations re-
ſating to Comparaſive Anatomy—Places of Shclfer againſ? the J/ind confrºed
*y the Naſives—Conſtruc/ion of their IIu/s—ſ ſudden Gºſt of Iſin,” freaks our
Chain–He run aground in the Mud – Meet with a young Savage—Inſelligence
of a Paſſage by which one may /ai/ from Tempeſ; inſo Adventure Bay—Huſs of
the Natives—Phoca Monachus—The Heart of this amphibious Animal has no
Foramen Ovale—Olſervations relating to Comparative Anatomy—Traces of Bºſ's
of Prey at the Cape of Jan Diemen—Huſs, which appear to have becm lafely
inhabited—Piviparous Flies, the Larvae of which produce ſpeedy Putrefatºr in
Fleſh-meat—Citizen Riche finds ſome burnt human Bones—Our Maſler Sail-
maker Moſes himſelf in /he J/oods—Boſh ſºff's run aground in the Aſad-U/en/if's
of the Savages—Place of the Obſervatory—J'ariation of the Magnetic Needle—
Time of High-water in the Harbour— Departure from Port Dentrec.ſleazºv—
Paſſage through the Straits of Denarecaſeaux—Fires—Savages ſeen on the Shore
—One of them Kindles the Fire in different Places—Jſe caſt fºchor in a large
Bay at the Entrance of the Straits of Dentrecaſeaua-Excurſion into the Couri-
try—Savages found dreſſing their Food at the Fire—The Straits which we had
diſcovered receive the Name of the S/rails of Den/reca/eaux—ainchoring
Places in this Ghannel—Excurſions into the Countris ſituated along its Coaſis—
Rencounters with the Savages—Departure from the Straits of Dentrecaſ-
# tallſ,” sº tº- * º: - page 05
C H A P. VI.
Importance of the Sºruit of Dentrecaſeaux–Run from Cape Diemen to New Cule-
donia–Coºſing the South Jºſé of New Caledonia—Dangerous Situation of the
Recherche nea.; the Reefs ou that Coaſt—Little Cluffer of 1//inds at the Nºrther:
Extremity of New Caledonia—kiew of the Natives—Prodigious Extent of the
Reefs—Fiew of the Land of the diſaeides, and of the Treaſury I/unds—Coaſi-
ing the Hºſłern Part of the Iſlands of Bougainville, and Bouku–Dangerous
Situation .
kvi CONTENTS.
Situation of the Recherche, on the Shoals off the ſang ºf Bougainville—hter-
view with the Savages of Bowka Iſland—Their Tofte for Muſic—Their Trea-
chery—Their Canoes—Determination of fiveral Points of Bougainville and Bouka
Iſlands—Anchor in Carteret Harbour—Several Excurſions on the neighbouring
Land—Inceſſant Rain during our Stay at Carteret Harbour—Different Obſer-
vations ſº tº E- tº- º page 136
C H A P. VII. º
Departure from Carteret Harbour—On that Occaſion the Eſperance leſes an Anchor
—Paſſage through St. George's Channel—Piew of the Portland Iſlands—Dif-
fent Interviews with the Natives of the Admiralty Iſlands—Their fantaſtical
Faſhion—Deſpotiſm of their Chiefs—Canoes—Aftoniſhing rapidity of their Motion
Piew of the Hermit Iſlands—Their Inhabitants—Piew of the Exchequer Iſlands
—A New Iſland—4 JWater Spout—Piew of New Guinea—Paſſage through
Pitt Strait—Singular Effects of the Tides—Ravages of the Scurvy—Anchor at
Amboyna ſº º - --> u º º page 107
C H A P. VIII.
Stay at Amboyna—4 Cabin-Boy belonging to the Recherche is accidentally drowned
—Piſit to the Governor—Different Excurſions into the Interior of the Iſland—
One of the Naturaliſts falls dangerouſly ill—-Deſcription of his Diſorder—-
Agreeable Liquor furniſhed by the Sago Palm—Sugar extracted from it—Uſes
of the different Parts of that valuable Tree—Means by which the Flying Dragon
ſuſtains itſelf in the Air—Explanation of Maté, which preſerves the Crops from
being plundered—A Dutch Sailor flees into the Woods for Fear of being ſent to
Batavia—Dextrous Manner of catching the Cancer Carcinus—-Cabins of the
Natives of Amboyna—Their Cloathing, &c.—Their Method of procuring Fire ;
and of Fiſhing in the Night—Culture of Nutmegs and Cloves—A long Bamboo
cut ſo as, with a briſk Gale, to emit a very agreeable Sound—Fiſheries of the In-
habitants—d Sago-J/ork—Extraction of its Flecule—Diſeaſes common at Ain-
boyma—Parious Reflections on the Iſland and its Inhabitants page 195
C H A P. IX. *
Departure from Amboyna—Singular Effect of the Tides—Piew of different I/ands
—Ravages on board, by the Species of Cockroach, called Blatta Germanica—
Run along the South-JWeſt Coaſt of New Holland—Death of the Blackſmith
belonging to the Recherche—A ſtorm drives us towards the Coq/?—Jſe anchor in
Legrand Bay—The Eſperance, while at Anchor, loſes two of her Rudder-irons—
Her Mooring-chain gives IPay—Different Excurſions on the neighbouring Land
—New
CONTENTS. xvi.
—New Species of Swan—Sea-Salt found at more than one hundred Toiſºs in
perpendicular height—That Phanomenon accounted for—Cºxen Riche //es him-
ſelf on the Continent more than two days—Departure from Legrand ijay, and
Continuation of our Run along the Coaſt—J'ant of JPater obliges us to leave it
—Arrival at Cape Diemen—Ca/º Anchor in the Bay of Rocks page 24 1
C H A P. X. }
Stay in Rocky Bay—Parious Excurſions into the Country—Goodneſs of the Soil—
Singular Organization of the Bark of ſeveral Trees peculiar to New Holland—
Diffculty of penetrating into the IFoods—The Trees within land are not hollowed
by Fire like thoſe near the Sea—Pit Coal to the North. Iſºft of South Cape—In-
terview with the Savages—Their Condući towards us very peaceable—One of
them came to take a Piew of us at Night while we were aſſeep—Several of them
accompany us through the JP'oods—ſarious other Interviews with the Inhabi-
tants—They broil Shell Fiſh, to eat them—Polygamy effabliſhed among theſe People
Their Manner of fiſhing—The Women ſearch for Shell Fiſh, ſometimes by diving
to a great Depth—One of the Savages tiſits us on Board—Their Knowledge of
Botany º º * > sº º page 28%
C H A P. XI.
Departure from Rocky Bay to paſs through Dentrecaſſeaux Strait—The Ships run
aground in this Strait—Parious Excurſions into the neighbouring Country—Inter-
view with the Natives—They had left their Heapons in the Iſoods, and rºſioned
them on their Return—Pe anchor in Adventure Bay wº º page 316
C H A P. XII.
Departure from Adventure Bay—Je paſs cloſe by the North End of New Zealand
—Interview with the Inhabitan/s—Diſcovery of ſºveral Iſlands hitherto unknown
—Anchor at Tongataboo, one of the Friendly Iſlands–Eagerneſs of the Natives
to come on board and furniſh us with freſh Proviſion—Jſe ſalt a great Number
of Hogs—The Iſlanders greatly addić7ed to Thef-One of our Sentine's Knocked
down in the Night by a Native, who ſole his Muſket—The Aſſaſſin delivered to
General Dentreca/eaux by King Toobou, who reſtores the Muſket that had been
Jolen—-Queen Tiné comes on board—Toobou gives a Feaſ: to the General—
Queen Tiné alſo does the ſame—The Smith of the Recherche is Knocked Jºn
with Clubs by the Natives, who afterwards /rip him, in open Day, in Sighſ of our
ſeſſels–Some young Bread-Fruit Trees are taken on board to enrich our Colonies
with this valuable Producijon º- * * * --> page 32G
# B
xviii CONTENTS.
C H A P. XIII.
Departure from Tongataboo-Ji'e get Sight of the Southern Part of the Archipe-
ſugo of the Terra del Eſpiritu Santo, (New Hebrides)—Diſcovery of the Iſland
of Beaupré–Jſe Anchor at New Caledonia—Interviews with the Natives—
Deſcriptiºn of their Huſs—Theſe Savages are Cannibals—Their Impudence to-
ward us—They eat great Pieces of Sleatite, to appeaſe their Hunger—Their At-
tempts to ſeize upon our Boats—Different Excurſions into the interior Part of
the Iſland—Death of Captain Huon—New Species of Spider, on which the
Savages of New Caledonia feed º wº º - page 384
C H A P. XIV.
Departure from New Caledonia—Interview with the Inhabitants of the Iſland of
S/. Croix—Their Treachery—One of theſe Savages ſlightly pierces with an Ar-
row the Forehead of one of our Seamen, who died ſome Time after in Conſequence
of the JWound—Singular Conſtruction of their Canoes—Piew of the Southern
Part of the Archipelago of Solomon—Interview with its Inhabitants—Their
Perfidy—The Northern Coaſt of Louiſiade reconnoitred—Interview with its In-
habitants—Dangers of that Navigation—Sail through Dampier's Straits in or-
der to reconnoitre the North Coaſt of New Britain—Death of General Dentre-
caſeaux–The Scurvy makes great Ravages in both Ships—Death of the Baker
of the Recherche— Ca/ anchor at JPaygiou sº aº tº page 426
C H A P. XV.
Ahode at JFaygiou—Scorbutic Patients are ſpeedily relieved—Interviews with the
Natives—Anchor at Bourou—Paſſage through the Strails of Bouton–Ravages
produced by the Dy/en/cry—Anchor at Sourabaya—Abode at Samarang—My
Detention at Fort Anke, neur Batavia—1bode at Iſle de France—Return to
France *º sº sº wº * wº page 449
A P P E N D I X.
Pocabulary of the Malay Language tº tº-º; º $º I
dºº-º-º-º-º: Language of the Savages of Diemen's Land sº - 10
Language of the Natives of New Caledonia wº - 25
Language of the Nutives of Iłaygiou tºº tº 3O
TABLEs of the Rout of the Eſperance *** * wº tºº 33
IIST
LIST OF PLATES.
I. CHART of the World, exhibiting the Track of M. de la Pérouſe, and the Tracks of
La Recherche and L’Eſperance in Search of that Navigator * Page 17-
II. View of the Admiralty-iſlands * * gº “cº * 17 I
III. Savage of the Admiralty-iſlands *-> * * &: *3 - 177
IV. Natives of Van Diemen's-land fiſhing! *- - ** 399
V. Natives of Van Diemen's-land preparing their Vićtuals ~2. *: º 3 I I
VI. Woman of Van Diemen's-land *- sº -*. 297
VII. Man of Van Diemen's-land–Child of Van Diemen's-land º º 298
VIII. Man of Van Diemen's-land—Fenou, Chief of the Warriors of Tongatabou . . 3.34.
IX. Black Swan of Van Diemen's-land Io 5
X. Black ſpotted Parroquet of Van Diemen's-land º *...* *- 3O7
XI. Calao of the Iſland of Waygiou - ** *g wº * > 45 I
XII. Fig. 1, 2 and 3. A ſeroe Rubra–Fig. 4, 5 and 6, Spider which the New Caledo-
nians eat—7 and 8. Shield of the Natives of Louiſiada—Hatchet of the Natives of
Louiſiada sº jº * As * - lo?
XIII. Eucalyptus globulus sº º º *se * -- I l 2
XIV. Exocarpos cupreſſiformis sº e-º ºr- * ** I I 4
XV. Diplarrena morcea - º * * tº º I 16
XVI. Richea glauca * º º º ** º I 33
XVII. Mazeutoxeron rufum * sº •ºr - * *- º 264
XVIII. Carpodontos lucida sº tº & sº *g * 288
XIX. Mazeutoxeron reflexum & º wº sº º * 3 I 7
XX. Eucalyptus cornuta º º tº º 32 3
XXI. Chorizema ilicifolia 3- tº-8 - *ººl •p *9 ** º 265
XXII. Anigozanthos rufa wº * *- ſº * º 269
XXIII. Bankſia repens a- * -* - * * * 2 O
XXIV. Bankſia nivea * º º tºº. * ſtrº. º 1b.
XXV. Man of New Zealand–Girl of New Zealand - * *º- º 328
XXVI. An Entertainment given to General Dentrecaſteaux by Toubou, King of the Friendly-
iſlands • * * sº agº * wº 357
XXVII. Dance of the Women of the Friendly-iſlands in Preſence of Queen Tiné To face the Tºl.
For the deſcription ſee page 369.
XXVIII. Double Canoe of the Friendly.Iſlands * wºs º -
XXIX. Toubou, Son of the King of the Friendly-iſlands—Vouacecá, an Inhabitant of Fidgi * * *
XXX. Woman of Tongatabou—Woman of Amboyna - sº - º 36-
XXXI. Effects of the Inhabitants of the Friendly-iſlands—Fig. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7.
Baſkets of different Forms—Fig. 8. An earthen Veſſel, incloſed in a Net, with
large Meſhes made of the Filaments of the Cocoa-nut—Fig. 9. A wooden vert
in which they prepare Kava–Fig. 10, 11 and 12. Cups out of which they
drink Kava–Fig. 13. A ſpoon cut out of a Shell–Fig 14. The Fruit of the
Melodinº ſandens, in which the Women keep the Oil for anointing different
Parts of their Bodies - º- •º wº wº * tº $SO
XXXII. Continuation of the Effects of the Inhabitants of the Friendly-iſlands—Fig. 15. An -
Apron made of the Filaments of the Cocoa-nut—Fig. 16, 17, 18 and 19. Diſ.
ferent Sorts of Necklaces—Fig. 20. Ornament for the Head–F ig. 21. A comb
—Fig.
}_IST OF PLATES.
—Fig. 22. A groteſ]ue Figure of Bone—Many of the Inhabitants wear them
ſuſpended to the Neck, as alſo a Bit of Bone, which is a bad Repreſentation of a
Bird, hung to the Necklace, N° 19—Fig. 23. The Tooth of a Shark, fixed to the
End of a wooden Handle, and which is uſed in carving different Works—Fig. 24.
A Raſp, made of the Skin of the Ray-fiſh, faſtened on a Piece of Wood—Fig. 2;
and 26. Calcareous Stoncs which the Inhabitants tie to Lines, with which they
fiſh at great Depths—Fig. 27, 28 and 29. Fiſh-hooks—Fig. 30. A wooden Hook,
with four Branches, under a wooden Plate—Fig. 3 1. The wooden Plate º
XXXIII. Continuation of the Effečts of the Inhabitants of the Friendly-iſlands—Fig. 32.
A fly flap made of the Filaments of the Cocoa-nut—Fig. 33. A Fan made of
the Leaf of a Species of Palm, called corypha umbraculifera—Fig. 34 and 35.
Wooden Pillows—Fig. 36. A Club for breaking the Head—Fig. 37, 38 and
39. Clubs—Fig. 40. A Kind of Bone Cutlaſs—Fig. 41. A Kind of Bone Sabre
XXXIV. Woman of the Iſland of Beaupré—Man of the Iſland of Beaupré -> sº
XXXV. Native of New Caledonia throwing a Javelin & º * 4-
YXXVI. A Woman of New Caledonia - <- º º *-
XXXVII. Effeóts of the Natives of New Caledonia—Fig. 1. A wooden Maſk—Fig 2
and 3. A Bonnet—Fig. 4. A Necklace—Fig 5 and 6. Bracelets—Fig. 7, 8
and 9. Combs—Fig. Io, I I, 12, 13, 14 and 1 5. Clubs tº-> & *
Page
374
4 I 9
42 4
389
388
XXXVIII. Continuation of the Effects of the Inhabitants of New Caledonia—Fig. 16. A
Bag to contain the oval Stones, which the Inhabitants throw with their Slings
—Fig. 17. The Sling—Fig. 18. The Stone—Fig. 19. The Nbouet, an In-
ſtrument with which the Savages of New Caledonia cut the Fleſh of their Ene.
mies, which they divide among them after a Battle—Fig. 20. Two human
Arm-bones, tapered and well poliſhed, intended for tearing out the Inteſtines
of the unfortunate Vićtimes which thoſe People devour—Fig. 21. A Hatchet
of ſerpentine Stone fixed in a wooden Handle—Fig. 22, 23. Fiſh-hooks—
Fig. 24. A Baſket—Fig. 25. A Spear of the Natives of the Admiralty-iſlands,
pointed with a Piece of volcanic glaſs—Fig. 26. A Flute of the Natives of
Louiſiada Fig. 27. A Necklace of the Natives of Louiſiada–Fig. 28, 29 and
30. Huts of the Savages of New Caledonia º º “y
XXXIX. Magpie of New Caledonia * wº tº sº *
XL. Dracophyllum verticillatum ºp aºs º º º
XLI. Antholoma montana º º * * - º
XLII. View of the Iſland of Bourou, taken ſtom the Road .. - -
XLIII. Canoe of the Iſland of Bouka * wº sº -> º
XLIV. Canoe of the Arſacides * 4- * º wº º
XLV. Double Canoe of New Caledonia - º wº º -
XLVI. Catimarron of Van Diemen's Land—Canoe of the South Sea Iſland of Santa Croix
WOYAGE
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V O Y A. G. E.
IN SEARCH OF
L A P É R O U S E.
C H A P. I.
Departure from Breſt—Arrival at St. Croix, in the Iſland of Teneriffe—
Journey to the Peak of Teneriffe—Reſuſcitation of a Sailor who had been
drowned—Some daring Robbers carry off his Clothes—Two of our Natu-
raliſts are attacked with a Spitting of Blood, which obliges them to give
alp their Deſign of Proceeding to the Summit of the Peak—Engliſh Pºſt
ſels in the Road of St. Croix—Different Reſults from the Obſervations
made in Order to determine the Variations of the Needle—New Eruption
of a Volcano to the South-eaſt of the Peak.
- AUGUST, 1 7Q 1.
HE equipment of the two veſſels appointed for the voyage which
we were about to undertake being already in a ſtate of great for-
wardneſs, towards the cloſe of the month of Auguſt, we received orders
from General Dentrecaſteaux to repair to Breſt. I had the pleaſure of
travelling thither in the company of three perſons engaged in the ſame
expedition, namely, the Citizens Riche, Beaupré, and Pierſon.
We arrived at Breſt on the 10th of September. Some of the fineſt
ſhips in the French navy, ſuch as the Majcſtueux, the Etats de Bour-
gogne, the America, &c. were then in the harbour. r
While our aſtronomers were engaged in making the obſervations ne-
C \ ceſſary
} S VOYAGE IN SEARCII [1791.
ceſſary for determining the movements of our time-keepers, thoſe who
deſigned to make Natural Hiſtory the principal object of their attention
were employed in furniſhing themſelves with all the requiſites for pre-
paring the colle&tions, which they purpoſed to make in the unknown
countries we were about to viſit.
As it was my intention to devote myſelf chiefly to the obſervation of
the vegetable kingdom, I ſtood in need of a great quantity of paper, and
wiſhed to provide myſelf with ſome of a very large ſize. It was, how-
cver, not without great difficulty that I was able to procure twenty-two
reams; almoſt all that remained in the warehouſes having been lately
appropriated to the ſervice of the artillery. -
I employed a part of the time that I had at my own diſpoſal in exa-
mining the botanical garden, which is kept in very good order. There
is alſo, in this place, a ſmall cabinct of natural hiſtory, which contains
ſeveral anatomical preparations preſented to it by Citizen Joannet, ſur-
geon of the Eſperance.
The muſter of our crews took place in the harbour on the 21ſt of
September.
The veſſels went into the road-ſtead on the 25th. There were then
no foreign ſhips thcre, and very few French.
We were very heavily laden, ſo that when we ſet ſail our draught was
thirteen feet nine inches at the ſtern, and twelve feet ten inches at the
head.
There were on board the Recherche :
6 eight pounders.
2 carronades of thirty-ſix.
6 pedercrocs of half a pound,
12 pc.dercrocs of ſix ounces.
45 muſkets.
35 piſtols.
50 ſabres.
30 battle axes, and
l O eſpingoles.
The
SEPTEMBER.] OF LA PEROUSE. I ()
The Eſperance was provided with nearly the ſame means of defence,
which were ſufficient to ſecure us againſt any violence that might be at-
tempted by ſavages.
Both veſſels were furniſhed with a great ſtore of commodities intended
to be diſtributed amongſt the natives of the South-ſeas. Iron tools, and
ſtuffs of different colours, eſpecially red, formed the baſis of our bartering
ſtock.
Each of the veſſels was ſtored with proviſions ſufficient for the con-
ſumption of eightcen months. We now only waited for a favourable
wind to ſet ſail. A pretty freſh breeze ſpringing up from the caſt, en-
abled us to get under way about one o'clock in the afternoon of the 28th
of September. Soon after we had left the roads, we diſcovered two ſai-
lors and a cabin-boy, who being very deſirous of going on this expedi-
tion, and having been diſappointed in their wiſh to be included in our
crew, had concealed themſelves in the ſhip. As we had ſcarcely room
ſufficient for the men already on board, our commander gave orders to
tack about and make for the roads of Bertheaume, where our three un-
bidden gueſts were ſet on ſhore.
The Eſperance, having met with no ſuch interruption, had got confi-
derably a-head of us, but we came up with her before night, as our veſ.
ſel was a much better ſailer.
At taking our departure at ſix in the evening, we found our place to
be 48° 13' N. lat. 7° 15' E. long.
We ſet the oueſſant at N. 29 W. of the compaſs.
The bec de la chevre at S. E., 4° E.
The bcc du raz at S. 2° E.
Point Mathicu was then at the diſtance of 2,505 toiſes.
We now ſteered our courſe E. N. E. till towards midnight, y, be: ºy.
directed it right caſt. -
On the 20th, our Commander Dentrecaſteaux was informs J, by dº.
patches which he had orders not to open before we were in the main
ſea, that Major Huon Kermandec, Commander of the Eip, ice, was
advanced to the rank of poſt-captain (capitº d, … /.../ſ ), and himſelf
J', 's * {
Q.
C 2 * ()
2C) VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1791.
to that of rear-admiral (contre-amiral). This intelligence was innme-
diately conveyed by the ſpeaking-trumpet to the Eſperance, and our flags
were hoiſted with the diſtinctive enſigns of the rank conferred upon the
Commander.
We again diſcovered two marines, and a cabin-boy, who were not in-
rolled among our crew, and had kept themſelves till now concealed in
the ſhip. As we were already too far from the land to ſet them on ſhore,
the Commander permitted them to accompany us on our expedition.
Having made ſeveral ſea-voyages before the preſent, I had flattered
myſelf that I was too ſeaſoned a ſailor to be any more incommoded by
the motion of the veſſel; but I found that I had already entirely loſt this
qualification, for I was ſea-ſick during the firſt three days after our ſailing
from Breſt. I have had frcquent opportunities in the courſe of this
voyage of remarking, that a very ſhort ſtay upon ſhore is ſufficient to
render me anew ſuſceptible of ſickneſs from the motion of the veſſel; for
whenever we have put out to ſea, after having lain a ſhort time at an-
chor, I have always been diſordered for two or three days as much as I
was after our departure from Breſt. The ſailors adviſe one, in theſe caſes,
to endeavour to eat, notwithſtanding the loathing of food that always ac-
companies this diſorder. But this picce of advice it is very difficult to
follow ; for beſides the pain produced by the action of ſwallowing, the
preſence of food in the ſtomach increaſes the nauſea, and the vomiting
that ſupervenes is ſtill more diſtreſſing.
Diluting liquors, taken in ſmall quantities at a time, ſo as not to bur-
den the ſtomach, have always afforded me the moſt relief. Lukewarm
water, ſlightly ſweetened with ſugar, is the drink which I have generally
uſed, as it is the caſieſt to be procured at ſea.
We had, however, ſeveral perſons on board, who, though they had
never becn at ſea before, experienced not the ſmalleſt inconvenience from
the toffing of the ſhip. Such a conſtitution is very deſirable for thoſe
who undertake long voyages; for it is impoſſible to deſcribe the diſagree-
able ſenſations that attend this ſpaſmodic affection, which, as it operates
upon cyery part of the frame, produces ſuch a general depreſſion of its
powers,
october.] Oſ' LA PEROUSE, 2 :
powers, that life would be inſupportable, were it not for the hope of a
ſpeedy termination of the diſorder.
From the day of our ſetting ſail, to the 5th of October, we had ſlight
breezes, that varied between the north and eaſt points of the compaſs.
From that time to our arrival at Teneriffe, they blew pretty freſh, varying
between the north and north-eaſt. This alteration in the ſtate of the
wind gave us no ſmall uneaſineſs, as in our ſituation it might become
produćtive of the moſt fatal conſequences. Lumbered as we were in
every part of the veſſel, and drawing confiderably above the load-water
line, we ran the riſk of being overſet by a ſudden fºuall: beſides, the
ſtowage had been very negligently performed. In this diſorderly ſtate
we had ſailed from France, although the expedition had been decreed by
the National Aſſembly almoſt eight months before it took place.
On the 11th of Oétober, about fifty-five minutes after ten o'clock,
we obſerved an eclipſe of the moon. The obſervations that can be taken
at ſea, lead to no very accurate reſults. Citizen Willaumez, however,
concluded, from one which he took, that we were now in the longitude
of 18° 10' 45" W. On the 12th, about eight in the morning, the Eſpe-
rance intimated to us by a ſignal, that land was eſpied.
Towards noon we reckoned ourſelves to be at the diſtance of about
71,800 toiſes from the peak of Teneriffe, which bore S. E. S. raiſing its
head majeſtically above the clouds.
At the cloſe of the evening we were not more than about 10,200 toiſes
diſtant from the north-eaſt point of the iſland. We ſhifted with the
fore and main top-ſails every three hours, whilſt we expected the dawn.
As ſoon as it appeared, we made towards the iſland, coaſting along at the
diſtance of 500 toiſes.
About half an hour after nine in the morning, we caſt anchor in the
road of St. Croix, in a muddy bottom of black ſand, about fifteen toiſes
in depth.
The French Conſul, Citizen Fontpertuis, waited immediately upon
our Commander, with an offer of his ſervices in furniſhing us with what-
cver we might want for the proſecution of our expedition.
I went
º VOYAGE IN SEARCII [1791.
I went on ſhore in the afternoon, to take a view of the environs of the
town. Although the ſeaſon was confiderably advanced, the refle&tion of
the rays of the ſun from the volcanic ſtones, produced a degree of heat
that was the more oppreſſive as the air was perfectly calm.
I obſerved among the plants that grow in the neighbourhood of St.
Croix, a woody ſpecies of balm, known by botaniſts under the name of
meliſſa fruticoſa, alſo the ſaccharum teneriffle, the cacalia Klejnia, the dafura
Tºcº/, the chryſanthemum fruteſcens, &c. Some of the gardens were orna-
mented with the beautiful tree termed poinciana pulcherrima.
In the evening, Citizen Ely, being ſtruck with the groteſque appear-
ance of ſome of the women in the town, who, even during the greateſt
heat of the ſeaſon, wear long cloaks of very coarſe woollen ſtuffs, was em-
ployed in drawing a ſketch of one of them, when he was ſuddenly in-
terrupted by a ſentinel, who imagined him to be taking a plan of the har-
bour. It was in vain that he attempted to explain to him what his
draught was intended to repreſent: the ſoldier would not ſuffer him to
finiſh it.
As we had anchored too cloſe to another ſmall veſſel, we caſt an anchor
in the afternoon nearer to the ſhore, by which we kept ourſelves at a
convenient diſtance.
The bearings we took at this place gave us the following reſults:
The redoubt on the north ſide of the town, N. N. E. .1° E.
The great tower ſituated about the middle of the town, E. S. E.
At ſun-riſe cach of the forts returned our ſalute of nine guns with an
cqual number. On the noon of the preceding day, we had ſalutcd the
town with fifteen, as it returned us gun for gun.
A packet-boat from Spain caſt anchor to-day in the road-ſtead.
We had agreed to take a journey to the peak on the morrow, and ſub-
ſequently to viſit the other high mountains of the iſland in ſucceſſion.
The French Conſul very obligingly did all that was in his power, to faci-
bitate the execution of our deſign, and gave us letters of recommendation
to M. de Cologant, a very reſpcétable merchant, reſident at Orotava.
About four o'clock the next morning, our party aſſembled upon the
Molc
ocTOBER, OF LA PEROUSE. Q 3
Mole to the number of eight; namely, Devellc, one of the officers of our
ſhip, Piron, Deſchamps, Lahaye, and myſelf, with three ſervants, one of
whom underſtood the Spaniſh language, and ſerved as our interpreter.
We found the mules that were to carry us at the ſea-ſide; but it was
more than an hour before we could ſet out upon our journey, it being
no eaſy matter to aſſemble our guides, ſome of whom, knowing that wo
could not ſet off without them, made no ſcruple of letting us wait till
they choſe to make their appearance. When they had arrived we thougit
we ſhould be able immediately to proceed, but we were obliged to ex-
poſtulate with them a long time, before they could be induced to carry
the ſmall ſtock of neceſſaries that we took with us upon our expedition.
The reader will recollect that our ſhips were ſo plentifully ſtored with
proviſions, that one might have thought we were going to ſail to ſome
deſert country. Roſſel, who had the charge of the officers’ table, had
given orders to the cook to ſend us an excellent ſalmon-pie for our jour-
ney. I ſhould not have mentioned ſo trivial a circumſtance, had it not
been for the ſake of the contraſt which it affords with the worm-eaten
biſcuits and cheeſe, that were our uſual regale whilſt we remained cr:
ſhore, in the ſubſequcnt part of our expedition.
Monſ, de Cologant having been informed by the French Conſul of our
intended journey, invited us to come to his houſe at the harbour of Oro-
tava. This port, which is not more than about 15,300 toiſes diſtant from
St. Croix, is a very convenient baiting-place for thoſe who viſit the peak;
it being ſituated at the foot of the neareſt mountains of the chain to
which it belongs.
We were three hours before we arrived at Laguna. This town is only
5,130 toiſes diſtant from St. Croix; but the road thither is very fatiguing,
as it aſcends for the greater part of the way. The place is meanly built,
and very thinly inhabited. We were informed that at leatt one half of
its inhabitants conſiſts of monks.
On our way to Laguna we paſſed over ſome barren mountains, which
were co-cred with a variety of plants of a luxurious growth. Amongſt
others we noticed the euphorbia canariºſis, the euphorbja dºdroides, the
•k * } . *
* -es ( , ; (1 . . .
24 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1791.
cacalia kleinia, the cachis opuntia, &c. Theſe plants, as they derive their
nouriſhment almoſt entirely from the atmoſphere, thrive very well in ſpite
of the ſterility of the abrupt precipices on which they grow. When we
deſcended into the ſmall plain on which the town ſtands, we remarked
that the mould produced from the corruption of the vegetables, and
waſhed down from the ſurrounding mountains by the rain, anſwers a very
uſeful purpoſe in fertilizing this little ſpot of ground, ſo that it yields
abundance of corn, Indian wheat, millet, and other eſculent plants.
I here obſerved a ſpecies of the periploca, which I had formerly diſco-
vered during my travels in the Levant. I have given an account of it in
the ſecond decade of my deſcription of the plants of Syria, under the ap-
pellation of periploca anguſiifolia. Citizen Desfontaincs has likewiſe col-
lected ſome of the ſame ſpecies upon the coaſts of Barbary.
All the ſtones that we had hitherto ſeen in theſe regions appeared to
have undergone the action of fire. As the mountains of this chain that
are of the mean elevation conſiſt of large maſſes, that after being fuſed
muſt have retained a great degree of heat for a conſiderable length of
time; I expected to find the lavas very compact in their texture. My
conjecture was confirmed. Their grain is very fine, and their colour for
the moſt part a decp brown.
Surrounded with theſe volcanic remains, we found the heat very op-
preſſive, which appeared to incommode our guides much more than our-
ſelves ; ſo that they exerted all their powers of perſuaſion in order to pre-
Vail upon us to make halt during the day, and only travel in the night-
time. They probably imagined that our ſole aim was to ſee the ſummit
of the peak, and ſeveral of our company would have had no very great ob-
jections againſt our journey being conducted upon that plan. But it is
cay to ſuppoſe that ſuch a nocturnal ramble could not promiſe much ad-
vantage to thoſe whoſe object of purſuit was the ſtudy of natural hiſtory.
The inhabitants of the iſland are beſet with religious prejudices from:
their carlicti infancy. The children came running out of their habita-
ti, ºr to enquire if we were of their religion; and we contented ourſelves
... It in cºmmiferating the unſ. Itunate beings, upon whom monkiſh bigotry
alº 11 colºrative c X. It with unbounded jºur their pernicious ſway.
Mojt
octor ER.] OF LA PEROUSE. ºn tº
Moſt of the garden-walls in the country beyond Laguna, are orna.
mented with the beautiful plant called trichomaſtes canarienſe.
As we approached Orotava, our road led us down a very gentle decli-
vity. We ſaw no more ſuch barren mountains as in the vicinity of St.
Croix, where the luxuriance of the vegetable kingdom is only an indica-
tion of the ſterility of the ſoil; but verdant banks covered with vine-
yards, the produce of which conſtitutes the chief wealth of the iſland.
The ſhrub termed boſta yervamora grows here in low ſituations.
At five o'clock in the evening we arrived at Orotava, where we were
received by M. de Cologant, in the moſt hoſpitable manner.
Two veſſels, an Engliſh and a Dutch, were then at anchor in the road-
ftead, in order to take in a cargo of wine. The landing-place here is much
more difficult of acceſs than that at St. Croix, on which account this har-
bour is leſs frequented.
M. de Cologant's wine-vaults were an objećt well worthy of our atten-
tion; as the wines of the iſland are the principal commodity in which
this opulent merchant trades.
Amongſt the different kinds of wine which they contain, there are two
forts that have qualities very diſtinét from each other; namely, the ſack,
or dry wine, and that which is commonly known by the name of malm-
ſey. In the preparation of the latter, care is taken to concentrate its ſac-
charine principle as much as poſſible.
The price of the beſt wine was then 120 piaſtres per pipe, and that of
the inferior ſort 60 piaſtres. It is neceſſary however to remark, that I
here ſpeak only of the price at which it is ſold to ſtrangers; for the ſame
wine which they buy at 60 piaſtres the pipe, is ſold to the inhabitants of
the iſland for ſix and thirty.
When the fermentation of theſe wines has proceeded to a certain
length, it is the cuſtom to mix with them a conſiderable quantity of
brandy, which renders them ſo heady, that many perſons are unable to
drink them, evel, in very moderate quantity, without feeling diſagreeable
effects upon the nervous ſyſtem from this admixture.
We were aſſured that the iſland generally yields thirty thouſand pipes
D of
of wine in a year. As it does not produce a ſufficient quantity of corn
for the conſumption of the inhabitants, a part of the produce of the
wines, which are ſold to ſtrangers as Madeira wine (and indeed they
differ very little from it in quality), is expended in the purchaſe of this
indiſpenſably neceſſary article of ſuſtenance.
Although the olive thrives very well in this iſland, it is very little cul-
tivated. The different ſpecies of the palm-tree that are to be met with
in ſome of the gardens, are cultivated only for curioſity. --
We had been aſſured, before our departure from St. Croix, that we
ſhould find the ſummit of the peak already covered with ſnow. I had
not thought it neceſſary to take a barometer with me at ſetting out ; but
I found at Orotava that I had been led into a miſtake; and there I was
unable to procure this inſtrument of obſervation *. * … --
We purpoſed to procced very early the next morning on our journey.
But that happened to be a feſtival day, and our guides could not be per-
ſuaded to ſet out before they had heard maſs; ſome of them had even
heard three already : as for us, we waited for them with the moſt impa-
tient ſolicitude, when our uneaſineſs was redoubled by being informed
that we ought to conſider it as a very great indulgence if they would
agree to travel at all on ſo high a feſtival. They were, however, at length
ready to accompany us, about nine o'clock in the forenoon. *
Having left the town, we purſued a track that often led us up very
ſteep aſcents, from whence we obſerved enormous maſſes of mountains
piled one upon the other, and forming a ſort of amphitheatre round the
baſe of the peak. On their brows we frequently met with level ſpots
that ſerved us for reſting-places, where, after having fatigued ourſelves
with climbing up the rugged paths, we ſtopped for a ſhort time to take
breath, and acquire freſh courage for aſcending the higher mountains.
* We read, in the account of the Voyage of La Pérouſe, that when the ſhip lay at
anchor in the road of St. Croix, the mercury, in the barometer that Lamanon had taken
with him, fell at the peak of Teneriffe to 18 inches 4 fines, whilſt the thermometer in’.
dicated 9..." above 0 , though, at the ſame moment of time, the barometer ſtood, at St.
Croix, at 28 inches 3 ſines, and the thermometer at 244°, $
- * * Our
ottoBER ] OF LA PEROUSE. - c;
our guides were aſtoniſhed to obſerve that ſome of us choſe to go oil
foot, contrary to the cuſtom of the greater part of thoſe who make the
tour of the peak; and inceſſantly admoniſhed us to ride upon the mules
which they led along with them.
After having paſſed through ſome fine plantations of vines, wc found
ourſelves ſurrounded with cheſnut-trees, which cover the moſt clevated
regions of theſe mountains.
In the clefts between the mountains, I obſerved the folipodium virgini-
cum, and ſeveral ſpecies of the laurel that were new to me, amongſt the
reſt the laura indica of Linnaeus.
Although we purpoſed to perform our journey within a ſpace of not
many days, we ought to have provided ourſelves with a larger ſtock of
ſhoes; for even the ſtrongeſt ſoles were ſoon ground to pieces by the lava
on which we walked.
It was near noon when we arrived at the height of the clouds, which
ſpread a thick dew over the bruſh-wood through which our road led us.
One ſhould think that the abundance of rain which falls upon theſe
heights, in conſequence of the natural propenſity of the atmoſphere,”
muſt give riſe to a great number of ſprings. They are, nevertheleſs, very
rare; as the earth is not ſufficiently attenuated to retain the water, which
filtrating through the volcanic ſoil, diſcharges itſelf, for the greater part,
into the ocean, without colle&ting into regular ſtreams.
As ſoon as we had ſurmounted theſe thick clouds, we enjoyed a ſpec-
tacle beautiful beyond conception. The clouds heaped up below us ap-
• We may here remark, that when high mountains become much heated by the rays
of the ſun, they ačt as a kind of ſtove, by which the ſuperincumbent atmoſphere is els.
wated in conſequence of the dilatation which it undergoes. Hence ariſes the moiſture of
the more diſtant part of the atmoſphere, which, ruſhing in to ſupply the place of that
which has been ſent into higher regions by the ačtion of the heat, carries with it the
clouds ſuſpended in it as I have had frequent opportunities of oble wing at Mount Lib i-
non, where this phenomenon never fails to take place about five J’o lock in the after noon
during the heats of the month of September, unleſs ſome violent current of the atmo-
ſphere ſhould happen to counteraćt its natural diſpoſition. Perhaps this may be the ſole
reaſon of the attraction that appears to exiſt betweeu mountains and clouds.
\} . f
* , - k * Aſ *
28. VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1791.
peared blended with the diſtant ocean, and concealed the iſland from our
ſight. The ſky above us formed a vault of the moſt tranſparent azure,
whilſt the peak appeared like an inſulated mountain placed in the midſt
of a vaſt expanſe of waters.
Soon after we had left the clouds beneath us, I obſerved a phenomenon,
which I had formerly had occaſion to remark, during my ſtay amongſt the
high mountains of Keſroan in Natolia. Pt was with new ſurpriſe that I
ſaw the outlines of my figure, delineated in all the beautiful tints of the
rainbow, upon the clouds below mc, ſituated oppoſite to the ſun.
The decompoſition of the rays of the ſun, by contact with the ſurfaces
of bodies, affords a very ſatisfactory explanation of this ſplendid pheno-
menon. It exemplifies, upon a large ſcale, a fact well known to natural
philoſophers; namely, that when the rays of the fun are made to paſs
through a ſmall hole in the window-ſhutter of a darkened chamber, ſo as
to fall upon any objećt within it, they repreſent the outlines of the objećt
in all the various colours of the rain-bow, by being collečted with a priſm
and thrown upon a white ſheet of paper.
We now had to croſs a prodigious heap of pumice-ſtones, amongſt which
we obſerved very few vegetables, and thoſe in a very languiſhing condi-
tion. The ſpartium was the only ſhrub that could ſupport itſelf in theſe
elevated regions. It was very troubleſome walking upon this volcanic
ſoil, as we ſunk into it up to the middle of the leg. We found ſome
blocks of pozzolana ſparingly ſcattered among the pumice-earth.
At nine o'clock in the cvening we took up our abode for the night in
the midſt of the lava. Some large fragments that we found, were our
only ſhelter againſt the caſt wind, which blew with confiderable violence.
The cold was very intenſe at this height, where nature has not conſulted
the convenience of travellers, as very little wood is found here ; ſo that
the ſcanty fuel that we were able to collect, was not ſufficient to prevent
us from paſſing a very unpleaſant night.
The day at length began to dawn. We left ſome of our guides with
their mules at the place where we had ſpent the night, and proceeded on
our journey to the peak, which we were now in haſte to accompliſh.
We
ocroPER.] OF LA PEROUSE. 29
We continued, for the ſpace of an hour, to travel over large heaps of
fragments of a greyiſh coloured Java, amongſt which ſome blocks of poz-
zolana were ſcattered, as alſo huge maſſes of a very compačt blackiſh
glaſs, which bore a great reſemblance to the coarſe glaſs of bottles. This
glaſs, though formed in the vaſt crucibles of the mountains at the time of
their combuſtion, might become very uſeful in the arts; for being already
completely manufactured by the hand of nature, it would only require to
be-expoſed to the action of the fire in order to fuſe it anew, and render
it ſuſceptible of being moulded into all the forms that the hand of man
is able to give to it.
We arrived at the mouth of a cavern called la queve del ana, the orifice
of which is full four feet and a half in diameter. As its cavity runs for a
length of more than ſix feet in an almoſt horizontal direction, we were
not able to reach the bottom otherwiſe than by deſcending into it with
the help of a rope. We found that it contained water, the ſurface of
which, as was to have been expected at this height, was covered with ice
about an inch and a half thick. We immediately made a hole in the
ice, and regaled ourſelves with ſome excellent water. I did not feel any
of thoſe diſagreeable ſenſations in the throat, which I have often experi-
enced on the French Alps, from drinking the water which iſſues from
the foot of the Glaciers; although the cold of the water in this cavern
was one degree lower than that generally indicated by the water of the
Glaciers, for upon plunging a thermometer into it, it fell to the freezing
point. It ſeems that the diſagreeable pricking ſenſation occaſioned by
the water of the Glaciers in the internal fauces, ariſes from its being de-
prived of its atmoſpherical air.
The roof of the cavern was covered with cryſtals of ſaltpetre.
Piron, who had been indiſpoſed for ſeveral days, found himſelf to
overcome with fatigue as to be unable to proceed any further. Deſchamps
alſo choſe to remain with him at the cavern: as for the reſt of us, we ſet
forward on our aſcent to the ſummit of the peak.
Having reached its baſe, we ſaw it elevate itſelf before us in the ſhape
of a conc, to a prodigious height, forming the crown of the higheſt of
theſe
30 VOYAGE IN SEARCII [1791,
theſe mountains. From this ſpot our view extended over all the reſt of
the mountains, which ſeemed to form ſo many gradations, that muſt firſt
be ſurmounted before we can arrive at this commanding eminence. . . . .
At the place called La Ramblette, ſituated on the north-eaſt ſide of
the peak, our curioſity was excited by ſome clefts made in the rock, a few
of ..which were three inches wide; the reſt were: merely cracks, from
which iſſued an aqueous vapour that had no ſmell, although the ſides of
the chinks were covered with cryſtals of ſulphur, ſhooting out from a very
white earth, which appeared to be of an argillaceous nature.
A mercurial thermometer being introduced into one of the clefts, the
quickſilver roſe, in the ſpace of a minute, to 43° above o of Rcaumur's
ſcale. In ſeveral of the others it did not riſe higher than 30°. ~
We were now engaged in the moſt toilſome part of our journey, the
acclivity of the peak being exceedingly ſteep. When we had ſurmounted
about a third part of the aſcent, I made a hole about three inches deep
into the earth, from whence an aqueous inodorous vapour iſſued, and
though the heat of the ſurface of the carth was not greater than it uſu-
ally is at an equal clevation, upon plunging a thermometer into it the
mercury roſe to 51° above 0. t -, *
The ſpartium ſupra nubium was the laſt ſhrub that I noticed before we
arrived at the foot of the conc ; but there is an herbaceous plant which,
notwithſtanding its apparent delicacy, vegetates cv.cn in ſtill higher ſitu-
ations. I mean a ſpecies of violct with leaves ſomewhat clongated, and
ſlightly indented at the edges; its flowering time was already paſt. We
obſerved it to grow quite near to the ſummit of the peak.
The vapours of the atmoſphere not being able to riſe to this height,
the ſky preſents itſelf in the purcſt azure, which is more bright and daz-
zling than what we can ſce in the clearcſt weather of our climates.
Though ſome ſcattered clouds hung in the atmoſphere far below our fect,
we had ſtill a very perfeót vicw of the neighbouring iſlands.
The conc is terminated by a cratcr; the greateſt elevation of which is
on the north-eaſt ſide. Its ſouth-weſt ſide has a deep depreſſion, which
ſcc.ns to have been produced by the ſinking of the ground.
Near
ocTop ER.] OF LA PEROUSE. 3 I
Near to the top are ſeveral orifices about three inches in diameter,
from which a very hot vapour iſſues, that made Reaumur's thermometer
riſe to 67° above o, emitting a ſound very like that of the humming of
bees, When the ſnow begins to fall on the ſummit of the peak in the
latter part of the year, that which falls upon theſe orifices is ſocm melted
by the heat. The ſides of theſe holes are adorned with beautiful cryſtals
of ſulphur, moſtly of the form of needles, and ſome of them arranged into
very regular figures. The aëtion of the ſulphuric acid combined with the
water, effects ſuch a change upon the volcanic produćts of this place, that
at firſt ſight one might miſtake them for very white argillaceous carth,
that has acquired a high degree of dućtility from the moiſture conſtantly
iſſuing from the above-mentioned apertures. It is in this kind of carth
that the ſulphuric cryſtals which I have ſpoken of are found.
The decompoſition of the ſulphur, and the volcanic produćts, form an
aluminous ſalt that covers the ground in needles, which have very little
coheſion with each other.
The thermometer, when placed in the ſhade at the height of about
three feet from the ſurface of the ground at the ſummit of the peak, roſe
in a quarter of an hour to 15° above O. No ſenſible variation was obſerved
upon changing its diſtance from the earth, even by ſix or eight feet, which
gives us reaſon to believe, that the internal heat of the ground in this
place, though ſo very great, has little influence upon the temperature of
the atmoſphere. Beſides, the air of the atmoſphere might caſily be heated
at this height by the rays of the ſun to 15°, as a higher temperature is often
expcricnced at the foot of the Glaciers. I have often known the ther-
mometer to ſtand at 20° above 0 upon mount Libanon, though placed
quite cloſe to the ſnow,
The declivity of the mountain facilitated our return, and we deſcended
much quicker than we had aſcended. It was already evening before we
reached the place where we had paſſed the preceding night. The al-
moſt total want of ſleep, which we had experienced in conſequence of the
intenſe cold, gave us little courage to ſpend another night at the ſame
Place. We therefore wiſhed to proceed immediately farther, in order to
ſeek
32 VOYAGE IN SEARCH {1791.
ſeek a better ſhelter upon ſome of the neighbouring mountains; but as
our guides would not move a ſtep before the moon roſe, we were com-
pelled to remain there till near midnight, waiting for its appearance.
With the affiſtance of its feeble light, we deſcended over the pumice-
ſtones, following pretty cloſely the track which we had made for ourſelves
in our aſcent.
After a march of four hours, the bruſh-wood, which grew very thick,
obſtructed our way ſo much, that we were obliged to halt till day-break.
We had here abundance of fuel, and made ourſelves amends for the cold
of the preceding night, by immediately kindling a very large fire. Moſt
of our company were ſo very much fatigued with their toilſome journey,
that they had no other wiſh left than to make the beſt of their way back
to St. Croix; although we had agreed at ſetting out from Orotava, that
we would return by the oppoſite ſide of the mountains. But as we were
no longer all of the ſame mind, it was ſettled that thoſe who had al-
ready ſatisfied their curioſity, ſhould return to the ſhips; whilſt the gar-
dener and myſelf alone reſolved to complete our firſt deſign. All our
guides wiſhed to accompany thoſe who were returning to the ſhips, ſo
that it was with great difficulty that I could perſuade one of them to at-
tend us.
I was gratified with finding among the plants that grew on the ſides of
the rocks, the campanula aurea, the premantheſpinmala, the adiantum remi-
forme, and a ſpecies of the ceterac, remarkable on account of its leaves,
which are much larger than thoſe of the European ſpecies.
As theſe mountains afford very little water, we directed our courſe to-
wards a ſmall habitation, where we preſumed we ſhould find ourſelves
near to ſome ſtream of water. We were not diſappointed, for we came
to a very fine ſpring of delicious limpid water, which loſt itſelf again un
der the ground, after having but juſt appeared above its ſurface.
Apple-trees loaded with fruit adorned the garden of theſe peaceable
cottagers. This fruit taſted ſo delicious to the ſervant who accompanica
us, that he took it into his head, whilſt we were employed in viewing
the premiſes, to make an exchange that gave us a very poor idea of his
foreſight.
ocToBER.] OF LA PEROUSE, 33
forefight. He had given away our whole ſtore of fleſh-meat for ſome of
theſe apples, without taking a moment's conſideration whether or not
they would be an equally good proviſion for us in travelling the moun-
tains. We ſwore to ourſelves that we would never on a future expedi-
tion leave our ſtores in the charge of ſuch an oeconomiſt. In general it
may be remarked, that the ſervants employed at ſea are almoſt wholly
unfit for ſervice on ſhore.
At the cloſe of the evening we were far from any habitation of men.
About nine o'clock we reached a village, the inhabitants of which can
certainly not be accuſed of carrying the virtue of hoſpitality to a blame-
able exceſs. It was not without the greateſt difficulty that we were able
to procure ſhelter among them. As we did not underſtand the Spaniſh
language, we were obliged to make uſe of ſigns to expreſs our meaning, a
language that, in the night time at leaſt, is a very imperfect means of
communication; but our guide who was no leſs deſirous of going to bed
than we were, went knocking in vain at one door after the other, till
having gone round almoſt the whole village, we at length found two
charitable ſouls who agreed to harbour us. r
We were immediately ſerved with a frugal repaſt, during which the
houſe was lighted in the manner that is practiſed by ſome of the inhabi-
tants of the Alps. They ſet fire to ſmall ſplinters of very reſinous wood,
ftuck into the wall, which afford plenty of light, but throw out a great
deal of ſmoke. One of our hoſts took the charge upon himſelf of lighting
new ſplinters of wood as faſt as the former were conſumed.
We ſtood much more in need of ſleep than of meat, and haſtencil to
enjoy a repoſe, which proved the more delečtable, as we were here no
more incommoded with the cold we had experienced on the high moun,
tall|S.
On the following day, the 19th, I went on board with my colle&tion
of volcanic produćts and ſome very fine ſpecimens of plants, ach as the
feucrium befonicum, the ſchium frufeſsens, &c.
The birds known by the name of Canary-birds are very common in the
lower regions of theſe mountains ; their colour is a brown mixed with
E various
34 voyAGE IN SEARCH [1791.
various other hues, and their plumage is not ſo beautiful in their wild
ſtate, as it becomes when they are domeſticated. Some travellers have
aſſerted, that an indigenous ſpecies of the parrot is found in theſe
iſlands; but I have never ſeen any in my excurſions, and ſeveral credi-
ble perſons among the inhabitants have aſſured me that this aſſertion is
deſtitute of foundation.
A very ſtiff gale, which ſprung up to-day, cauſed the ſea to ſwell to
ſuch a height, as to drive on ſhore the pinnace of the Eſperance, after
having overſet it upon one of the ſailors, who could not be extricated in
leſs than a ſpace of ſeveral minutes. He was already ſuffocated to a great
degree; but the means uſually employed in theſe caſes proved ſucceſsful
in reſtoring him to animation.
Whilſt I here expreſs my gratitude to the garriſon of St. Croix, for
the alacrity with which they haſtened to the relief of this unfortunate
ſailor; I cannot paſs over in ſilence a piece of knavery committed upon
this occaſion by ſome of the natives. -
Whilſt we were adminiſtering our aſſiſtance to this man, we had hung
up his clothes to dry, little ſuſpecting what ſhould happen. Some of
the inhabitants of the town, perhaps conceiving him already dead, thought
fit to appropriate his clothes to the uſe of the living: they were accord-
ingly carried off, and all purſuit after the robbers was in vain.
Citizens Riche and Blavier, engaged in the ſtudy of natural hiſtory,
had undertaken a journey to the peak the day after we had ſet out upon
ours; but they did not ſucceed in reaching the ſummit ; for whilſt
they were ſtill at a conſiderable diſtance from it, thcir lungs being unable
to accommodate themſelves to the rarefied atmoſphere, they were ſeized
with a ſpitting of blood, which obliged them to relinquiſh their enter-
prize.
The following days were cmployed by us in viſiting the chvirons of
St. Croix, where the country is in general very barren.
The town is very thinly peoplcd, even in proportion to thc ſmallneſs
of its cztcnt; though the harbour here is more frequentcd than any
other in the iſland. The Spaniards have introduced here their own
Tºl (1 in ºn C I'
ocToBER.] OF LA PEROUSE. 35
manner of building. The diſtribution of the internal part of the houſes
is the ſame with that which they practiſe in Europe, without any of
thoſe modifications which the difference of the climate requires.
The governor-general of the Canary-iſlands uſually reſides at St. Croix.
There are ſeveral convents of monks and nuns in this place. One of
the parochial churches here is equally remarkable for the taſteleſs profu-
fion with which the gilding is laviſhed upon it, and the bad choice of its
paintings.
In the market-place there is a fine fountain, the water of which is
conveyed from a great diſtance by wooden pipes through the mountains.
The ſtreets are ill-paved; moſt of the windows are without glaſs-panes,
lattices being uſed inſtead of them, which the women very frequently
open, when curioſity, or any other motive, prompts them to let themſelves
be ſeen.
Women of condition dreſs after the French faſhion; thoſe of the
lower ranks cover their ſhoulders with a piece of coarſe woollen ſtuff,
which forms a ſort of cloak very incommodious in this hot climate ;
broad-brimmed hats of felt ſhelter their faces from the rays of the ſun ;
intermarriages with the natives render their complexions darker than
thoſe of their countrywomen ; and their features are upon the whole
rather diſagreeable.
The multiplicity of religious obſervances pračtiſed by the inhabitants
were not ſufficient to prevent the women from going, with their chap-
lets in their hands, to meet our ſailors, whenever they came on ſhore,
fome of whom have had to repent for a long time their having been ſc-
duccd by ſuch a ſuperabundance of attractions.
The wine of Teneriffe, which, as I have already obſerved, is very
heady, was likely to have becn the cauſe of very fatal conſequences to
one of our ſailors, who, in a fit of intoxication, committed a very heinous
offence upon a ſentinel. The French Conſul, however, made uſe of his
intereſt with the officer who had the command during the abſence of the
Governor-general, ſo as to prevent any cognizance being taken of the
E 2 thl atte F
36 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1791.
matter. The diſcipline obſerved on board the Engliſh ſhips effectually
fecures them from any of theſe diſagreeable occurrences.
The Scorpion ſloop of war, of ſixteen guns and one hundred men,
commanded by captain Benjamin Hallowell, had caſt anchor in the
roads on the 18th, conſorted by a ſmall cutter. They had ſailed from
Madeira five days before, where they had left a veſſel of fifty guns, which
was expected ſoon to arrive at Teneriffe. Commodore Englefield who
commanded it, had alſo the general command of this ſmall armament,
which was deſtined for the coaſt of Africa. Theſe officers, aware of the
danger to which ſailors are expoſed whilſt they remain on ſhore, kept
them as much as poſſible on board; and never ſuffered them to quit the
ſhip but when the exigences of the armament required it. The com-
modore was reſolved to keep ſtrictly to this regulation, during the whole
time that he ſhould be ſtationed on the coaſt of Africa.
The variation of the needle was found by an average of ſixteen obſer-
vations taken on board, fourteen of the azimuth and two of the ortive
amplitude, to be 8° 7' 7" E. w
The reſult of two obſervations taken by Citizen Bertrand, one of the
aſtronomers to the expedition, on the terrace of a houſe in the town,
gave 21° 33' E.
The obſervations taken on board appeared more to be confided in than
the others, as they agreed with the progreſſive diminution of the varia-
tion which we had obſerved ſince our departure from Breſt, and with the
obſervations that had been taken long ſince by different other navigators.
The dip of the needle was now at 62° 25'. The ſame needle had
pointed 71° 30' at Breſt, and 72° 56' at Paris.
The place where we lay at anchor in the road of Teneriffe was 28°
20 35' N. lat. 18' 86 E. long.
The thermometer and barometer, obſerved on board towards noon,
varied very little during our ſtay in this place. The former never roſe
above 20° two tenths, nor the latter above 28 inches two lines.
The ſtation of St. Croix is a very excellent one, on account of the
plentiful
ocroBER.] OF LA PEROUSE, 37
plentiful ſupply which it affords of all ſorts of European kitchen-vege-
tables, cabbages exceptcd, which, though very ſmall, are ſold at an exor-
bitantly high price. Moſt of the orchard-fruits of Europe are likewiſe to
be met with here, and the ſame domeſtic animals as in the ports of
France.
Experience had taught us that the ſheep of this iſland do not bear con-
finement on board ſo well as ours. The pure air which they have been
accuſtomed to breathe on the mountains where they feed, renders them
the more ſuſceptible of injury from the impure air between-decks.
Teneriffe alſo affords great abundance of dried fiſh. They particularly
carry on an extenſive traffic with the ſpecies termed bonife.
Thoſe parts of the iſland upon which the labour of cultivation has been
beſtowed, are very fertile, as is generally the caſe in volcanic iſlands. The
internal heat of the earth which forms their baſis, exhales towards the
ſurface of the ground a portion of the rain-water which they have im-
bibed, which produces a remarkably luxuriant vegetation.
On the other hand the too ſlow decompoſition of ſome of theſe volca-
nic ſtones, and the extreme dryneſs of ſome of the mountains, render
many parts of the iſland unfit for cultivation. The action of the fire to
which they have been expoſed at different periods after long intervals, as
is atteſted by hiſtorical records, together with the ſhelter which they re-
ceive from the plants peculiar to thoſe ſituations, retarding in many places
that gradual decompoſition which would otherwiſe have taken place,
had they been left entirely bare.
No volcanic eruption had been known in this iſland, ſince that which
broke out ninety two years ago, till in the month of May, 1790, a new
eruption took place on the ſouth-eaſt ſide of the peak, as I was informed
by Citizen Gicquel, officer of marines, who ſpent ſome time at St. Croix
on his return in the frigate La Régénérée from the Iſle de France.
I ſhall inſert the account which I received of this event from Citizen
le Gros, Conſul of the French Republic.
“On the 21ſt day of May, 1796, the inhabitants of St. Croix heard
ſome hollow reiterated ſounds, very like the diſtant report of cannon; in
the
38 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1791
the night-time they felt a ſlight trembling of the earth, and on the fol-
lowing morning a volcano was obſerved to have broken out on the ſouth-
eaſt ſide of the peak. During the firſt days after its eruption, it appeared
to have fifteen mouths, their number was ſoon reduced to twelve, and at
the end of a month only two were to be ſeen, which threw out with their
lava large maſſes of rock, that often preſerved their line of projećtion for a
ſpace of fifteen ſeconds before they fell to the ground.”
Before our arrival at Teneriffe our veſſels had been ſo encumbered
with their ſtores, that we ſcarcely knew how to diſpoſe of our crew.
C H. A. P. II.
iſ depart from Teneriffs, and ſet ſail for the Cape of Good Hope—Olſºrta-
tions—Splendid Appearance of the Surface of the Sea, produced by phoſpho-
ric Light—The moſt general Cauſe of the Phoſphoreſence of the Sea-water
aſcertained—Four of our Sheep which we had brought from Teneriffe are
thrown into the Sea—Moderate Temperature of the Atmoſphere near the
Line—The Variation of the Compaſs greater on the South than on the North
Side of the Equator—Eaſy Method of reſidering ſiagnated ſºater freſh-
Thick Fog, which cauſes the Mercury in the Barometer to riſe–Lunar
Rainbow—Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope.
AY. high ſwell of the ſea had prevented us almoſt two days from
getting our proviſions on board. We were not ready to ſet ſail till
the 23d of Oétober.
We endeavoured at the firſt dawn to get under way. All our boats
had been taken on board the preceding day as ſoon as we had unmoored ;
as we wiſhed to take advantage of the land-wind, which blows here al-
moſt cvery morning. It was likewiſe neceſſary that we ſhould put out to
ſca
octop ER.] OF LA PEROUSE, 39
ſea before the flood-tide, which was expe&ted to ſet in about half an hour
after five.
We held by a cable to the Engliſh corvette. I cannot omit this op-
portunity of commending the polite behaviour of the Engliſh captain,
who gave us, in the moſt obliging manner, every aſſiſtance that we ſtood
in need of to enable us to get under way. Our Commander on his part
had likewiſe done him every ſervice in his power, when he came to an-
chor in the roads a few days after our arrival. One of the anchors of the
Engliſh ſloop helped us to heave down, and having ſpread our fails, we
fteered off from the coaſt under a ſlight breeze, which did not continue
long enough for the Eſperance to take advantage of it, although ſhe had
unfurled her ſails a few minutes after our veſſel. Carried away by the
flood, the force of which had not at firſt been perceived, ſhe was obliged
to caſt a ſmall anchor, by which ſhe hauled, in order to keep off from the
coaſt while ſhe endeavoured to ſtand clear of the veſſels about her.
At half after nine o'clock ſhe ſtood towards us. We then directed our
courſe S. S. E.
At noon we were in 28° 5' 40" N. lat. 18° 36' 40" E. long. At this
ſpot we ſet the peak of Teneriffe E. 28° N. and the caſtern point of the
iſland of Canary E. 24° S.
We then ſteered, about one o'clock in the afternoon, S. E. S. with a
view to paſs between the Cape Verd iſlands and the main land. We had
a pretty freſh eaſt breeze.
About fix in the evening the iſland Gomere bore N. 38° E.
On the 26th, the Eſperance told us her longitude, after having enquired
to know ours. The great difference between the longitude of our reck-
oning, and that taken by obſervation, threw us into ſome uncertainty,
which induced us to bear down two rhomb-lines ſtarboard from our for-
mer S. E. S. courſe ; but ſubſequent obſervations determined us to re-
fume our firſt direction. The weather was very fine, and we had no-
thing to fear from ºpproaching the African coaſt : beſides, we knew from
our foundings that it was many leagues diſtant.
On the following morning we were out of f ght of land, which con-
vinced
40 * VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1791.
vinced us that the obſervations taken on board the Eſperance were er-
TOIl COUlS.
We croſſed the Tropic of Cancer about one o'clock in the afternoon,
in 20° E. long. The barometer indicated 28 inches 2 4-5ths lines.
The firſt fiſh that would bite at the hook of our fiſhermen, was a very
fine dorado (coryphaena hyppurus). This was ſufficient to put the whole
crew in motion; but the fiſherman had the mortification of finding only
a part of its gills upon his hook, as he had drawn the line too haſtily.
Since our departure from Teneriffe the wind had blown pretty ſteadily
from the N. E. point.
A ſwallow of the common ſpecies (hirundo ruſtica), undoubtedly lately
come from Europe, followed us for ſome time, without lighting upon
the veſſel; but ſoon directed its flight right towards the African coaſt,
where it was ſure of finding the inſects on which it feeds. We were
now about 28° N. lat. 22° 30' E. long.
As there was very little wind, we obſerved a great number of the me-
diſſa caravela floating upon the ſurface of the water. This plant ſhould
not be touched unguardedly, as, like many other kinds of ſea-nettles, it
raiſes bliſters upon the hand, that afterwards become very painful.
The ſpecies of remora, known by the name of echineſs remora, generally
follows the ſhark, as it finds ſufficient nouriſhment in the excrements of
that voracious fiſh. It does not, however, attach itſelf ſo excluſively
to the ſhark as not to follow other large fiſhes alſo, and even veſſels, to
which it fixes itſelf when it is fatigued with ſwimming.
In the night we obſerved that our veſſel was followed by a large ſhoal
of dorados. As they ſwam much faſter than we ſailcd, they often moved
in a circular courſe round our veſſel with incredible ſwiftneſs. Although
the night was very dark, it was caſy to follow them with the eye, as
they leave a luminous track behind them. This phoſphoric light, pro-
duced in the agitated watcr of the ſea, appears the more brilliant in pro-
portion to the darkneſs of the night, and the velocity with which the
fiſhes move; ſo that we were able to diſcern their track very diſtinétly,
although they ſwam ſeveral feet below the ſurface of the water.
WC
Now EMBER.] OF LA PEROUSE, . 4
We were now in thoſe ſeas that abound with voracious fiſhes, ſuch as
the bonito, the tunny, and others of the ſame claſs, which find plenty of food
amongſt the different ſpecies of fiſh on which they prey; the principal of
which is the flying-fiſh (exocoetus volitans, Linn.). The bonitos that fol-
lowed us were eaſily caught by our fiſhermen, though they uſed no other
bait than a bunch of feathers, bound up ſo as to reſemble a flying-fiſh,
within which the hook was concealed.
We had been almoſt becalmed for ſome time, but the regular winds
began to recover their force. They were again interrupted on the 3d of
November by a ſtorm, which continued during the whole night; the
next morning they blew as on the preceding days. On the 6th they left
us at 9° 0' N. lat. 21° E. long.
The heat was now exceſſive, though the thermometer was only 23°
above o of Reaumur's ſcale.
A bird, called by Buffon goeland noir (lariſs marinits, Linn.), having
lighted upon one of the yards, eſcaped from a ſailor, who had climbed up
the maſt, in the very inſtant when he was about to ſeize it.
A prodigious number of bonitos followed us day and night; and it was
a matter of great aſtoniſhment to us, that they were able to keep up with
us ſo long without taking any reſt.
The motteux of Buffon (motacilla amanthe, Linn.), fatigued with its
long flight over the ſea, lighted upon our veſſel, and ſuffered itſelf to be
taken.
We were becalmed for ſeventeen days in lat. 5° N. We afterwards
had ſtorms, followed by ſqualls, that varied from E. N. E. to S. S. W.
having veered round by ſouth.
The tempeſt-bird (procellaria pelogica, Linn.) is not ſo ſure an indica-
tion of a ſtorm, but that its appearance is often followed by a calm of
ſeveral days duration. It was a pleaſing fight to obſerve theſe little birds
flying cloſe to the ſtern of our veſſel, in queſt of their food, which they
find upon the ful ace of the ocean.
We were mortificq to find that the vegetables and fruits, which we
had bought at Tencriffe, did not keep, as their corruption was greatly
F accelerated
+2 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1791.
accelerated by the heat and moiſture that prevails during the calms of
this zone. We had reaſon to believe that as they had been gathered in
a very hot and dry climate, they would have kept much better than
thoſe of Europe.
A ſmall ſhark (ſqualus carcharias, Linn.) fell a vićtim to his voraciouſ.
neſs. As ſoon as they had hauled him on deck, he was immediately cut
in pieces, and every one had his ſhare. The ſhark however is very poor
food; for beſides the natural abhorrence which the fleſh of an animal that
devours human bodies muſt excite, it is very difficult of digeſtion : but at
ſea we cannot chooſe our diſhes, and freſh proviſions are always pre-
ferable to ſalted. º
I found attached to the higher orifice of his ſtomach a number of worms
of the genus doris of Linnaeus. They were about an inch and a half in
length, and did not eaſily let go their hold, although the ſhark was dead.
I obſerved them now and then ſhoot out the two tentacula that belong to
the characteriſtics of this genus.
The ſituation of the mouth of the ſhark under his long upper jaw, obliges
him to turn himſelf almoſt round upon his back in order to ſeize any ob-
jećt above him ; ſo that his white belly, which the tranſparency of the
ſea-water renders diſtinguiſhable even at a great depth below the ſurface,
points out to the fiſherman the exact moment when he ought to draw
his line, in order to faſten this voracious fiſh to his hook.
Nature has amply provided it with the means of ſecuring its prey; for
beſides ſeveral rows of tccth formed in the manner moſt adapted for pc-
netrating the hardeſt bodics, the internal part of the mouth is likewiſe
furniſhed with various aſperities that ſerve to prevent the egreſs of any
ſubſtance that it has laid hold of.
Had we been trading to India, we ſhould not have failed to collect a
quantity of the fins of this fiſh, as they are in great requeſt amongſt the
Chineſe, who believe them to be a very powerful aphrodiſiac.
When the air was calm the heat was extremely oppreſſive : the ther-
mometer however ſtood no higher than 23° ; although we were not more
than 9° north of the equator. Our longitude was 20° 50' caſt. It ap-
pears
November.] OF LA PEROUSE. 43
pears that in theſe parts the thermometer affords a very inadequate ſtand-
ard of the ſenſible heat of the atmoſphere ; for though it indicated ſeveral
degrees lower than what we frequently experience in the warm ſummer
weather of Europe, the heat threw us into a moſt profuſe perſpiration,
which gave riſe to very troubleſome efferveſcences of the blood.
Between the tropics, the mercury in the barometer ſtands at a very
uniform height. We never obſerved it to vary more than an inch and
a half, more or leſs. It generally ſtood at 28 inches 2 lines, although
the atmoſphere was often agitated by violent ſtorms, which being gene-
rated in the interior of Africa, from the coaſt of which we were not more
than about 300,000 toiſes diſtant, were brought over to us by winds
from N. E. and E. N. E.
We here caught the fiſh known among the ichthyologiſts by the name
of balliſies verrucoſus. A great number of a ſmall ſpecies of whales
(ſouffleurs) ſwam about our ſhips, followed in their tardy courſe by ſharks
which fed upon their excrements.
A ſquall from the S. E. gave us intimation of the gales from the ſame
quarter, that prevailed in the diſtant regions under the equator; though
they blow there generally from the N. E. during this ſeaſon, when the
ſun remains almoſt two months within the tropic of capricorn.
A ſhark that had been preceded by a number of the fiſhes called pilots
(gaſterofteus dućfor, Linn.), was caught by our ſailors. Some remoras, that
thought themſelves in ſafety as long as they remained fixed to the body
of the ſhark, kept their hold ſtill for a conſiderable time after the fiſh had
been brought upon deck.
As the weather was exceſſively hot, and the ſea very tranquil, Piron
and Saint-Agnan, unable to reſiſt their deſire of cooling themſelves by
bathing, plunged themſelves a few hours afterwards into the ſea, at the
hazard of becoming the prey of another ſhark. t
It had remained calm almoſt the whole day; but about eight in the
evening the ſkies were covered to the ſouth-eaſt with thick clouds, that
portended a violent ſtorm. The night was very dark; and ſoon a lumi-
nous column of immenſe height was ſeen to deſcend from theſe clouds,
F 2 and
44 s VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1791.
and illumine the ſurface of the water. The ſcintillation of the ſea was
for ſome time interrupted by ſeveral intervals, during which it was quite
dark; when all of a ſudden the whole ſurface of the ſea appeared covered
with a ſheet of fire, extending in our direction. This ſheet was puſhed
along by a very high gale, which raiſed the waves to a great pitch; and
we ſaw ourſelves ſurrounded with a ſea of flames, which afforded one of
the moſt brilliant ſpectacles in nature. This phenomenon very ſoon diſ-
appeared; but the ſea appeared during the whole night much more lu-
minous than uſual wherever it was agitated, particularly at the wake of
the ſhip and the top of the waves.
The force of the gale had obliged us to ſtrike our top-ſails, and even to
bear down, for fear of being taken a-back.
The heat had been very oppreſſive during the whole day. We were
now ſailing off the immenſe gulph formed by the coaſts of upper Guinea,
the ſhores of which extend almoſt 1,500,000 toiſes to the eaſtward.
The ſea is much more phoſphoric in the vicinity of the coaſts ſituated
between the tropics, than any where elſe, becauſe thoſe animals, upon
which its phoſphoreſcence depends, abound there much more than
in any other part of the ocean : a fact, which I have had opportunity of
remarking in parts of the ocean very diſtant from each other. I ſhall
enter into ſome inveſtigation of this phenomenon.
As we had this gulph under our lee, the currents had carried over to us
many of the luminous ſubſtances with which it abounds; but it required
the concurrence of another circumſtance in order to produce ſo vivid a
light as we witneſſed. The clouds that hung over the quarter from
whence the wind aroſe, had imparted to the atmoſphere a ſuperabun-
dance of clečtricity, which was one of the principal agents in producing
the luminoſity of the water. -
The electric ſtate of the atmoſphere was proved to me by the unuſual
repulſion between the two balls of my electrometer.
A ſlight breeze from the ſouth-eaſt led us to hope that we ſhould ſoon
be delivered from the calms, that prevail to a greater extent in theſe ſitu-
ations than in any other part of the ocean. Theſe differences are parti-
cularly
Novemb|ER.] OF LA PEROUSE. 45
cularly obſervable upon a voyage to India, and appear to depend chiefly
upon the vicinity of the African coaſt, to which ſhips, ſailing from Eu-
rope to the Capc, approach much nearer, than thoſe which ſail from the
Cape to Europe: thus the former voyages generally require a longer ſpace
of time to be accompliſhed than the latter.
Many able ſeamen think it adviſable to croſs the Line much further
to the eaſtward than is commonly done.
The calms which prevail northward of the equator depend upon the
configuration of the African coaſt, which projects, at the diſtance of a
few degrees from the Line, nearly 1,500,000 toiſes eaſtward; whilſt the
great diſtance at which one ſails from the coaſt, after having croſſed the
equator, prevents the winds, generally prevalent in this part of the ocean,
from being modified by the land breezes.
I had kept ſome bottles of the ſea-water, which I had collected the
night before, during its phoſphoreſcence, for the purpoſe of examining
the ſmall luminous ſubſtances which occaſion this phenomenon. Hav-
ing incloſed ſome of this water in a vial, I agitated it in the dark, and
preſently obſerved luminous globules ariſing within it, which appeared
perfectly ſimilar to thoſe that are ſeen in the agitated water of the ocean.
I tried the ſimple cxperiment of ſeparating theſe particles from the wa-
ter, in order to learn whether it would ſtill retain its phoſphoreſcent qua-
lity. Upon filtrating it, by means of a piece of blotting-paper, a number
of minute tranſparent particles, gelatinous in their conſiſtence, and of a
globular form, were left upon the filtre. The water had now entirely
loſt its phoſphoreſcent quality, which I again reſtored to it by mixing it
with thoſe particles. If theſe ſmall animalcula be expoſed for any con-
ſiderable time to the air, they loſe their phoſphoreſcent properties.
I have frequently repeated the ſame Cxperiment upon water collected
in different parts of the occan, and have uniformly found it to contain
the ſame ſort of animalcula, which I thcrofore conſider to be the princi-
pal cauſe of the phoſphºreſcence of the ſea. Other ſubſtances, however,
poſſeſs likewiſe the property of giving this appearance to the ſea;
for many ſpecies of the crab, and other marine infects of conſiderable
bulk,
46 VOYAGE, IN SEARCH [1791.
bulk, ſometimes aſcend from its bottom, and give a luminous appearance
to the ſurface. I have ſeen ſome of theſe phoſphoric animals of more
than half a foot in length, but they were always accompanied by the ſmall
animalcula above mentioned.
We were informed to-day that they had thrown into the ſea, from
on board the Eſperance, four of the ſheep they had brought with them
from Teneriffe, becauſe ſome perſons had imagined that they had ob-
ſerved upon them ſymptoms of that diſeaſe which our nation is accuſed
of having imported into Europe, from America. The monks of the iſland
from whence they had brought the ſheep, had to ſuffer many ſevere ſar-
caſms upon this occaſion; though I believe them to have been deſtitute
of foundation ; for I have little doubt, that if the animals had been ſub-
jećted to a more accurate examination, the crew would not have been de-
prived of ſo conſiderable a part of their live ſtock.
Breezes from the S. S. E., which began to blow on the 21ſt of No-
vember, we being in lat. 4° 31' long. 18° 36' W. at length put an end to
the calms, which at this period of the year are generally experienced ſe-
veral degrees further to the ſouth, before one arrives at the track of the
regular winds.
The bird known among ornithologiſts by the name of pelecanus aquilus
excited our admiration. We obſerved two of them who, whilſt they
hovered at an immenſe height, eſpied their prey in the water, expecting
the moment when it ſhould appear near enough to the ſurface for them
to dart down and ſeize it.
The reaſon why theſe birds hover at ſuch a prodigious height above
the ocean, is, undoubtedly, that they may take in a more extenſive view
of its ſurface; but it is aſtoniſhing that they are able at that diſtance to
perceive the ſmall fiſhes upon which they generally feed. It is a ſubjećt -
well worthy to be inveſtigated by natural philoſophers, whether this
piercing viſion depends more upon the ſenſibility of the retina, or (as I
rather ſuppoſe it does), upon the diſpoſition of the humours of their eye.
The pelican is known to be a great deſtroyer of the flying-fiſh. As
ſoon as it cſpies one of theſe fiſhes, it deſcends from the more elevated
regions
November.] OF LA PEROUSE. 47
regions of the atmoſphere, and remains hovering about fifty toiſes above
the ſurface of the water, in order to ſeize its prey whenever it quits the
ſea. All the motions of the pelican are condućted with admirable dex-
terity: it does not dart head foremoſt, like moſt other birds that ſeek
their food in the water; but placing its feet and neck horizontally and
level with each other, it ſtrikes the air above it with its pinions, and
then laying them croſsways upon its back, ſo as to afford the leaſt poſ-
fible reſiſtance to the atmoſphere, darts down upon its prey, and ſeizes it
almoſt the inſtant it has left the water.
We all of us pitied the poor flying-fiſh when we obſerved the aſtoniſh-
ing ſkill of its enemy, which very ſeldom miſſes its aim, As the flying-
fiſh raiſes itſelf but to a very ſmall diſtance from the ſurface of the ſea,
the pelican would run the riſk of falling into the water, did it not poſſeſs
the art of breaking its fall by ſuddenly expanding its wings, ſo as to be
immediately able to mount again in queſt of another vićtim.
Though nature has given the flying-fiſh the power of living both in the
water and in the air, it is very difficult for them to eſcape from their
numerous enemies. If they evade the purſuit of the bonitos and dorados,
by quitting the water, the pelican awaits them in the air. Some of
them, reduced to this dilemma, were obliged to light upon our veſſel.
I found in the ſtomachs of ſeveral bonitos a number of worms, that
ought to be claſſed among the genus faſciola of Linnaeus, though their
inferior extremity, which is almoſt cylindrical, has a very diſtinguiſhable
bulb. They are about four lines in length, and terminate in a tube
which compoſes about half their dimenſions.
The winds from the ſouth and ſouth-eaſt continued to blow with ſuch
obſtinacy, that we were not able to croſs the Line till in the night of the
28th, about eleven o'clock, in 26° E. long. though our deſign had been to
croſs it about eight or ten degrees farther eaſtward.
Theſe ſouth and ſouth-eaſt winds are not common in theſe latitudes
at this time of the year; for the ſun being already conſiderably advanced
in the Tropic of Capricorn, the regular winds generally veer round to the
caſt. The calms, in conſequence of which we had got every day 6 or S/
further
4 S VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1791.
further northward, and the gales from the ſouth and ſouth-eaſt, were the
cauſes of our being ſo long detained by theſe winds.
Near as we were to the Equator, the thermometer, as obſerved for the
laſt eight days, had not ſtood higher than 21 or 229. It was a matter of
ſurpriſe to us, that being ſo near the Line, the thermometer did not indi-
cate a higher degree of heat; but beſides general cauſes, ſuch as the ab-
ſorption of the rays of the ſun by the water of the ocean, and the com-
paratively inferior denſity of the water, together with the evaporation that
takes place from it, which prevent an equal degree of heat being com-
municated to the atmoſphere with what it acquires from the yed We
had for ſeveral days had a ſlight breeze which contributed nota deſtle to
cool the air. i been ſub
The ſailors have a cuſtom of ducking perſons who croſs the ye been de-
firſt time, with the ſea-water. This operation is performed
ſeveral pails of water over their heads; and is frequently condućted in
ſuch a manner, as to afford a great deal of merriment to thoſe who know
themſelves exempted from being the ſubjects of it. One of the ſailors,
who calls himſelf the Good Man of the Line, lets himſelf down from the
main-top, with a large beard of tow faſtened to his chin, and preſides at
this nautical diverſion. +.
Our Commander, apprehenſive that this ſort of cold bathing might not
agree very well with ſome of us, forbade its being performed upon any of
the paſſengers.
On the 29th of November, Beaumé's aerometer for ſalts gave me
3° 4-5ths. We were then half a degree ſouth of the Line.
The currents carried us ſomewhat eaſtward of our former courſe.
The principal cauſe of the different currents in the wide ocean is known
to ariſe from the action of the winds. We had every reaſon to expect a
long paſſage. The Eſperance, however, kept her luff much better than
our veſſel. We were apprehenſive left our want of water might put us
under the neceſſity of ſteering for the coaſt of Brazil. This circumſtance
would have been the more cmbarraſſing to us, as it would have deranged
the whole plan of our expedition; for the inveſtigations we intended to
make
DECEMBER.] OF LA PEROUSE. A ()
make in ſeveral of the countrics that we were about to viſit, wcre to be
determined by the ſeaſon of the year.
On the 17th of Deccmber we croſſed the Tropic of Capricorn, in 38°
W. long.
On board the Eſperance they often caught more than a hundred boº-
toes in the courſe of a day, whilſt the moſt dexterous fiſhermen in our
veſſel never took more than ten in the ſame ſpace of time, and very fel-
dom as many. It was however a matter of great conſequence to the
health of the crew, that they ſhould be ſupplica with freſh proviſions.
On the 18th of December we were in lat. 25° 20' S. and long. 28° 42
W. when the thermometer obſerved at noon indicated only 10° above o.
although the fun was very near our zenith : before ſun-riſe it had been
174°. In the night-time the cold had been ſo conſiderable as to oblige
our ſailors to take to their woollen clothcs.
We had thought ourſelves ſure of meeting with eaſterly gales as we
approached the Brazilian coaſt: they, however, blew from the caſt; but
having drawn aft, we were enabled to keep our ſails pretty full for the
ſpace of a fortnight, till we were in 28° S. lat, and 24° W. long.
We might have expected in this latitude to meet with favourable
winds for itecring towards the Cape of Good Hope; but all the variation
that took place was ſtill more to our diſadvantage.
On the 28th of December we had ſtill S. E. winds, though we were
already beyond 294° S. lat. The heat of the ſun having been for ſeveral
months at its greateſt height in this hemiſphere, had changed the direc-
tion of the regular winds.
The length of our paſſage had reduced our allowance of water to one
bottle a day.
As ſoon as the winds had vecred from N. E. to N. the currents, which
bore till then to the eaſt, became ſcarcely perceptible.
Though we were at ſo great a diſtance from the Cape of Good Hope,
we obſerved a great number of albatroſſes (diomedea exulans.)
It is a remarkable circumſtance, that the variation of the magnetic
sleedlc is much greater to the ſouth of the Line, than it is to the north ;
G for
& G VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1791.
for between 14° N. lat, and the Equator, in the ſpace contained between
23° and 26° W. long, the difference had not been more than 3°, or
from 14° to 11° ; whilſt in the ſame extent of ſouth latitude, between
20° and 30° W. long, the compaſs varied eight degrees to the eaſt,
or from 11° to 3°. Might not the vicinity of the coaſt of Brazil be
one of the principal cauſes of this difference
The ſmalleſt variation obſerved was that of 18 50', in 258 S. lat. and
20° W. long. It cannot be doubted that the change of ſituation with
reſpect to longitude has a much greater influence upon the variation of
the needle, than change of latitude. The variation increaſed ſenſibly in
proportion as we advanced farther eaſtward.
One of our officers who was taking the diſtances between the ſun and
moon, in a very incornmodious ſituation, with a copper ſextant made by
Dollond, the radius of which was a foot in length, diſcovered a cauſe pro-
dućtive of error in the calculations, which one ſhould hardly have ſuſpected.
The radii of this inſtrument, though very heavy, were ſtill ſo ſlender as to
bend when it was preſſed with any degree of force againſt the breaſt,
whereby the paralleliſm of the ſpecula was deranged. The ſame effect
does not take place with ſextants made of wood, for their radii, being
much ſtronger than thoſe of copper, do not yield to that degree of
preſſure which bends the others.
This ſource of error affords an additional reaſon why mariners ought
to give the preference to the circle of reflexion, invented by Citizen Borda.
The facility with which any errors that may ariſe from the graduation, are
rećtified by croſs obſervations, in the uſe of this inſtrument, gives it a very
great ſuperiority over all others. -
I regret that this valuable inſtrument, though ſo eaſy in its application,
is not more generally in uſe. Each of our officers poſſeſſed one of them,
and during the courſe of the expedition every one learnt to uſe it with
certainty. r y , ſº
With a little practice an obſerver may take the longitude within 10, or
15,000 toiſes; and there is reaſon to believe, that when the lunar tables
ſhall have attainca a greater degree of perfection, the obſervations will ap-
proximatc ſtill nearer to the truth.
Though
BECEMBER.] OF LA PEROUSE. ' 5 i.
Though the plants which I had colle&led at Teneriffe were very dry
when we ſailed from that iſland, they were become much damaged by
the moiſture which they had imbibed, during the time that we were be-
tween the Tropics, particularly at the lower part of the lcaves, where the
abſorbent veſſels of the plant are known to abound more than in air,
other of its parts.
The water held in a ſtate of ſolution by the atmoſphere, in conſequence
of the heat which it acquires from the perpendicular rays of the fun, is ſo
much greater in quantity than what it can retain in ſituations not ex-
poſed to an equal degree of heat, that every thing that is not expoſed to
the direct rays of the ſun, becomes covered with a great degree of moiſ-
ture; ſo that it is very difficult to preſerve inſtruments of iron, or even of
the moſt highly poliſhed ſteel, from the ruſt.
During the whole period of time that we were ſailing round the
Tropics, the barometer had not ſtood higher than 28 inches 4 lines, nor
lower than 28 inches 1 1-10th lines.
We knew very well that our proviſion of water could not retain its
freſhneſs in the extreme heat of this climate; but one ſhould hardly have
imagined, that whilſt we had means on board of reſtoring its purity, they
{hould not have been put effectually in practice, before diſtributing to the
crew their daily allowance.
Water that is kept for a long time on board, undergoes the ſame fort of
decompoſition which takes place in ſtagnant pools; and this proceſs
is conſiderably accelerated by the influence of a hot climate. A great
quantity of inflammable air is then diſengaged from it; ſo that a perſon
who goes into the hold where it is ſtowed, runs the hazard of being ſuf-
focatcd. This, however, is an accident that very rarcly happens, as a
part of the noxious vapours are diſcharged by the paſſage leading into the
hold. Nevertheleſs, theſe vapours frequently give riſe to nervous fevers
amongſt the crew, the malignity of which, is in proportion to the heat
by which the decompoſition of the water is effected. .
As this gas, the ſpecific gravity which was firſt determined by Prieſt-
icy, is conſiderably lighter than atmoſpherical air, and has likewiſe very
G 2 little
sº
52. VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1791.
little attraction for the water ; it is very eaſily ſeparated, ſo as to reſtore
water to its former purity; nothing more being neceſſary than to agitate
the fluid for the ſpace of a quarter of an hour. -
We had a machine on board which was perfectly adapted to this pur-
poſe. It conſiſted of a large bucket, about five cubic feet in capacity,
which being filled to about two-thirds with water, four large flat pieces
of iron were turned round in the middle of the veſſel, by means of a
handic and balance-wheel. By this operation the water in the bucket
was violently agitated, and whilſt the inflammable air, with which it had
been impregnated, was diſengaged, it abſorbed a quantity of pure air from
the atmoſphere, to ſupply the place of that which it had loſt; ſo that,
putrid as it had been before, it ſoon recovered its original freſhneſs.
This proceſs, ſo eaſy in its execution, affords a ſatisfactory anſwer to
the many enquiries that have been made concerning the means employed
by mariners to render water potable, after it has loſt this quality by be-
ing kept long in the ſhip.
It will ſcarcely be credited, that though we were able to purify the
water according to the ſimple method juſt deſcribed, that which was diſ-
tributed in the veſſel often ſtunk nearly as much as when it was firſt
brought out of the hold. The cauſe of this neglect aroſe from the cir-
cumſtance, that the officer, who had the charge of inſpecting the opera-
tion, uſually committed it to one of the ſailors, who, ſoon tired with
turning the handle, delivered it out before it had become potable. It
was very juſtly obſerved on board, that it would have becn much bet-
ter had this charge been committed to the ſurgeon, as the health of the
crew depended ſo much upon its being well performed. It was never-
the eſs left in the hands of the officer of the watch. *
On the 29th of Deccmber, the ſky being very clear, the thermometer
indicated 17° 8-10ths, and the barometer 28 inchcs 39-10ths lines ;
when a breeze ſuddenly ſpringing up from N. N. E. brought with it a
thick fog, which concealed the fun from our view for the ſpace of a quar-
ter of an hour. It is very remarkable that the mercury in the barometer,
inſtead of falling in conſequence of this change of weather, ſtood a line
and
f Lº
DECEMBER.] OF LA PEROUSE. 53.
and a half higher than before, during the whole time that the fog con-
tinued. I dare not hazard any conjecture of my own in order to account
for this phenomenon, which will appear the more aſtoniſhing to perſons
converſant in natural philoſophy, as this circumſtance ought to have di-
miniſhed the elaſticity of the air inſtead of augmenting it: beſides, there
was no reaſon to believe that the fog was occaſioned by the exploſion of
any volcano.
On the 3d of January we enjoycd the ſpectacle of a lunar rainbow.
This planet was encompaſſed, at ten o'clock in the cvening, with two
concentric circles, that preſented all the colours of the ſolar rainbow in
reverſed order. The largeſt of the circles did not occupy more than five
degrees in the ſky.
As this phenomenon, produced by the decompoſition of the rays of the
noon, appeared between the planet and us, the priſmatical colours natu-
rally preſented themſelves in an order the reverſe of what takes place in
the ſolar rainbow ; becauſe in the latter caſe the ſpectator is ſituated be-
tween the rainbow and the ſun. Thus the ſmaller circle was terminated
at its interior margin by the red colour, and at its exterior by the violet,
whilſt the largeſt exhibited the red at its exterior, and the violet at its in-
terior.
We were then in lat. 32°42' S, long. 7° E.
On the 7th of January we paſſed under the meridian of Paris, in 33°
S. lat.
Having plunged the aërometer of Beaumé in the ſea-water, in order to
determine its ſpecific gravity, it indicated 3° 4-5ths. I had obtained the
ſame reſult from a ſimilar experiment which I made near the Equator.
Hence it appears that the ſaltneſs of the ſea does not perceptibly vary in
different parts of the ocean, though very diſtant from each other, and
heated to very different degrees of temperature by the rays of the ſun.
On the 9th, we began to exerciſe the crews of both ſhips in ſhooting
at a mark. A prize of ſmall value was the reward of thoſe who hit an
objećt fixed to one of the fore-ſail booms. We were pleaſed to obſerve
that moſt of our men took very good aim, though they had never becn
accuſtomed
5.4 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1791.
accuſtomed to the uſe of fire-arms. It was a matter of conſequence, in
an expedition like ours, in the courſe of which we might ſometimes be
under the neceſſity of defending ourſelves againſt the attempts of the fa-
vages, that every one of our company ſhould underſtand the uſe of ſuch
arms as we had on board.
The captain of the Eſperance having ordered an half of a very fine
tunity to be tied to a buoy and thrown into the water, as a preſent to
our Connmander ; it did not float near enough to our veſſel to enable us
to take it up, when one of the ſailors plunged into the ſca in order to ſwim
after it, although it was known that a ſhark had been caught that very
morning by the crew of the Eſperance, and the calmneſs of the weather
afforded an additional ground of apprehenſion, leſt one of our beſt ſeamen
might fall a prey to another of theſe animals.
Notwithſtanding we had already reached the thirty-third degree of
ſouth lat., being in 5° E. long, the bonitos ſtill continued to follow us
in as numerous ſhoals as ever; though they are ſeldom known to abound
at ſo high a degree of latitude. The north winds were probably the oc-
caſion of their leaving their uſual haunts.
I muſt do the crew of our ſhips the juſtice to remark, that if they were
leſs ſkilled in fiſhing than the crew of the Eſperance, they alſo laboured
under certain diſadvantages which the others did not. It was the buſi-
heſs of the boatſwain to furniſh the ſailors with lines, which ours diſtri-
buted throughout the whole expedition with ſo much parſimony, that
the ſailors loſt all their inclination for this occupation. The inſpecting
officer ought to have appriſed him of the pernicious conſequences reſult-
ing from this miſtaken picce of economy; but he negle&ted to do it.
The animal known by the name of meduſa volella, was induced, by the
tranquil ſtate of the ſea, to riſe to the ſurface of the water, where we ob-
ſerved large numbers of this ſpecies. They were preciſely ſimilar to thoſe
which I have often met with in the Mediterranean, where the ſailors con-
fider them very delicious eating.
The ſucceſs of our expedition depended very much upon the ſhips being
ſuch as did not water; we had, however, ſcarcely left the roads of Breſt,
when
pecember.] OF LA PEROUSE, 5 §
when we were obliged to pump the veſſels. As our ſhip made three-
fourths of an inch water every hour, we were under the neceſſity of
pumping it twice every day. This precaution was the more indiſpen-
ſable, as the water had already attacked our ſalt proviſions, the preſerva-
tion of which was an object of the greateſt importance on a voyage like
ours. Very fortunately, that which got into the hold did not penetrate
far.
The ſpace between decks was ſo much lumbered, that it laſted ſeveral
months before we could find out the ſpot where it leaked, which at laſt
was diſcovered to be behind one of the knees. Upon lightening the veſ.
ſel, we found that one of the tree-nails had been forgotten, and the place
where it ought to have been inſerted ſmeared over with tar. Having
bolted it properly, we were enabled to keep the ſhip dry.
The albatroſſes of the Cape of Good Hope, which began to appear in
large flocks, ſhewed us that we were approaching to the ſouthern extre-
mity of Africa. We deſcried the land about eight o'clock in the morn-
ing of the 10th of January. Table Bay was then about 20,000 toiſes
diſtant from us.
The currents, which had made us fall off ſo much from our courſe
whilſt we were in the track of the regular winds, having fortunately
taken an oppoſite direétion where we met with the variable ones; what
we had loſt to the weſt was very nearly made up to us by what we gained
to the eaſt, as appeared when we made the land of the Cape of Good
Hope. It is evident that the tendency of the ſeas to preſerve the level,
ſome few irregularities proceeding from the variable winds excepted,
ought to induce mariners, in the parts where theſe winds prevail, to bear
down to the eaſt in proportion as the general winds determine the cur-
rents to the weſt.
We had another indication of our being near the land in the difference
of colour of the water, ariſing from the ſhallowneſs of its bottom.
Some ſeals, of the ſpecies called by Linnaeus phoca fºſſilla, approached
very near to our veſſel in queſt of their food amongſt the large maſſes of
fucus pyriformis, which floated upon the watcr. Theſe animals often
eſcaped
56 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1791.
eſcaped from our ſailors by taking ſeveral ſucceſſive leaps over the water,
This they perform by placing their hinder paws together, ſo as to reſemble
the broad tail of a fiſh, and act with conſiderable reſiſtance againſt the
ſurface of the water, over which they bound like a nimble quadruped over
a level plain. -- $
We fell a little to leeward of the mouth of Table Bay, which gave us
hopes of coming to anchor in the courſe of the day. It was not, how-
cver, the moſt favourable weather for making the land; for the day was
very rainy, and the coaſt often concealed by a thick fog from our vicw.
About ſeven in the evening we were between 7 and 8,000 toiſes from
the mountain of Hout Bay, which bore E. 3° 45' N. The foreland of
the Cape bore N. N. E. The Lion's-head E. 3° N. Our ſoundings
gave us here the depth of watcrat ſeventy toiſes over a bottom of coral.
The ſea appeared very phoſphoreſcent throughout the whole night
which we ſpent off the coaſt. A great number of luminous ſpecks were
obſervable wherever the water was agitated. This phoſphoreſcence differed
in no other reſpect from that uſually obſerved at ſea, than in its greater
intenſity, proceeding from the ſuperabundance of phoſphoric globules.
Such phoſphoric ſubſtances abound much more in the vicinity of the
land, than in the open ſea at the ſame latitude; as I have remarked upon
a former occaſion. -, *
A ſlight S. E. breeze enabled us in the afternoon of the following day
to direct our courſe towards the mouth of Table Bay. As ſoon as it
blew a little freſher, wc ſteered with full ſails towards the Pointe des
Pendus, ranging very near to thc coaft, our depth according to the ſound-
ings being pretty uniformly about five toiſcs.
About half an hour after five we caſt anchor in a bottom of muddy
grey ſand, at the depth of about twenty-four feet, and diſtant 5, 130 toiſes
from the ſhore. The principal ſteeple in the town bore E. 38° S. . The
flag upon the Croupe de Lion E. 3° N. The flag at the northcrnmoſt
ſide of the fort E. 48° N. . The Iſland Roben N. 10 W. #
We had not a ſingle ſick man on board, although the length of our
paſſage had reduced us to a very ſcanty daily allowance of water; but
WC
JANUARY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 57
we had endeavoured to compenſate for the want of it by a copious uſe of
various antiſcorbutic remedies. A very wholeſome and pleaſant kind of
punch, made of brandy, vinegar, ſugar and water, had been daily diſtri-
buted amongſt our crew towards the latter end of the paſſage. The
'ſhips were fumigated every day, and we were very careful that the ſailors
ſhould change their clothes whenever they had got wet. It was a ſatis-
fačtion to us to find that theſe precautions had not been taken in vain.
C H A P. III.
Abode at the Cape of Good Hope. Depoſitions of two French Captains, ſheº-
ing that they had been informed at Batavia by Commodore Hunter of his
having ſeen ſome Perſons at the Admiralty Iſlands, dreſſed in the Uniforms
of the French Marine. Captain Bligh's Voyage from England in Queſ of
the Bread-fruit in the Society Iſlands. Piolent Gales from the Sout/.
Eaſt. Local Cauſe of their Violence. Slave-trade. Excurſions amongſ:
the Mountains in the Wicinity of the Town. Journey of the Fiſcal. Poyage
to Franſche Hoek.
* WO officers of health came on board from the Cape Town, in
order to learn whether any of our crew were infected with con-
tagious diſorders. The ſmall-pox is the diſeaſe moſt dreaded by the in-
habitants; for not being endemic, it occaſions here, as well as in every
part of India, the moſt dreadful ravages, whenever it is imported amongſt
them from foreign countries. y
The maſter of a merchant veſſel from Bourdeaux, which had arrived
here a few days before us, immediately came to acquaint us that the
Commander of the naval forces at Iſle de France, having received
ſome information relative to the fate of La Pérouſe, had diſpatched a
frigate to the Cape, in order to communicate his intelligence to the
H Commander
5s VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
Commander of the expedition ſent in ſearch of that unfortunate naviga-
tor. The frigate had ſailed from Iſle de France a few days before our
arrival. ~
Our Commander Dentrecaſteaux diſpatched an officer to the Governor
of the Cape to arrange the ceremonial of the ſalute. This officer re-
ceived from the Chargé d'Affaires of France the diſpatches which Citi-
zen Saint-Felix, Commander of our naval forces in the Indian ſeas, had
ſent to Dentrecaſteaux by the frigate Atalante, Captain Bolle, which had
immediately ſailed back for Iſle de France.
I ſhall here inſert the letter addreſſed to our Commander, with the
depoſitions of two maſters of merchant veſſels, who were at Batavia
during the ſtay which Commodore Hunter made at that place, upon his
return from Botany Bay in a Dutch veſſel, after he had been ſhipwrecked
off Norfolk iſland.
Letter from Citizen Saint-Felix, Commander of the Naval Forces of France
in the Indian Seas, to General Dentrecaffeaux.
“I learn from private correſpondence that you do not purpoſe to touch
at Iſle de France till on your return from the important expedition
in which you are engaged. Diſappointed in the hope, with which I had
flattered myſelf, of having the honour to converſe with you, I haſten to
diſpatch, in order that they may find you at the Cape of Good Hope,
two reports relative to the obječt of your miſſion, which I have lately re-
ceived from the maſters of two French veſſels arrived here from Batavia.
You will thereby be informed of the particulars, how a Dutch veſſel,
having on board Commodore Hunter of the Sirius Engliſh frigate, toge-
ther with his ſhip's company, diſcovered near the Admiralty Iſlands, in
the South Sea, ſeveral perſons clothed in European manufactures, ſome
of which, in particular, appeared to be French uniforms. You will alſo
be informed that the Commodore did not doubt that theſe were remains
of the ſhipwreck ſuffered by M. de la Pérouſe, whom he had often ſeen
at Botany Bay.
“ I con-
JANUAMY.] OF EA PEROUSE. $9
“I conceived that the communication of theſe reports muſt intereſt
'you ; and they appeared to me of ſo important a nature, that I reſolved
to tranfmit them direétly to you by a frigate, which I have diſpatched to
the Cape for that expreſs purpoſe. Captain Bolle, who commands the
veſſel, will leave the papers in the hands of our Chargé d'Affaires, in caſe
he ſhould not meet you there ; in order that thcy may be delivercq to
you immediately upon your arrival. Though I have received no official
directions relative to your expedition, that authorize me to ſend this fri-
gate upon its preſent deſtination, yet I have no doubt that the ſtep I have
taken will meet with the approbation of his Majeſty, both when I con-
ſider the intereſt of the public and the ſentiments of my own heart. It
was reſerved for you to acquire a claim upon the gratitude of the whole
French nation, by accepting the command of an cxpedition which con-
fers cqual honour upon the Sovereign who has ordered it, and the Con-
mander to whom its execution is intruſted. In every part of the globe
that you may viſit, you ſhall ever be attended by my fervent wiſhes for
your ſucceſs, and the inviolable and perfect attachment with which
am, &c. (Signed) SAINT-FELIx.”
Iſle de France, 9th Nov. 1791.
Beport delivered to Saint-Felix, Commander of the Naval Forces of the Frº.
Nation in the Indian Seas, by Captain Préaudet, Maſter of the Jaſºn.
from Batavia.
The Sirius Engliſh frigate, commanded by Commodore Hunter, and
bound for New Holland, was caſt away off Norfolk Iſland in the South
Sea, towards the end of the year 1790. The ſhip's company were taken
on board a ſloop that accompanied the frigate, and carried to Botany
Bay, where Commodore Philips cngaged a ſmall Dutch veſſel to convey
the ſhipwrecked erew, together with their commander, to England.
Having ſailed from Botany Bay in this veſſel, with an intent to touch
at Batavia, they were carried by contrary winds and the force of the cur-
rents as far eaſtward as 107° E. long. meridian of Greenwich. Wiſhing
to paſs through the Straits of St. George, they came within ſight of the
* * H 2 Admiralty
*-
66 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
Admiralty Iſlands, ſituated in 14; o E. long. 3° 25' S. lat. Near to the
moſt eaſterly of theſe iſlands they obſerved ſeveral boats, amongſt the crews
of which there were many perſons who wore European ſtuffs and picces
of cloth in their dreſs; they even diſtinguiſhed ſome who were clothed in
the uniform of the French Marine. Theſe people hung out the white
flag as a fignal for the Engliſh to approach ; but though Commodore.
Hunter was very deſirous of doing it, he found it impracticable, on account,
of the contrary currents and winds, and the danger to which the numc-
rous ſhoals would have expoſed them: • ?
Commodore Hunter had often feen M. de la Pérouſe at Botany Bay,
and lived upon terms of intimacy with him. He had learnt from him
that his intention was to paſs through the Straits of St. George, after
leaving Botany Bay, and from thence to direct his courſe to the north-
ward. He does not doubt that the Aſtrolabe and Bouſſole were caſt
away upon the above-mentioned iſlands, in conſequence of the calms
and ftrong currents that prevail in thoſe parts. He has informed me
that he has been carried by them ſix hundred miles to the eaſtward in the
fpace of ten days; as he knew from repeated obſervations of the longi-
tude, from the time-keepers, and from the bearings of the land. In a
word, Commodore Hunter, whom I ſaw at Batavia in the courſe of my
laſt voyage, appeared to me to be fully purſuaded that the European
dreſſes, which he ſaw in the boats from the Admiralty Iſlands, were col-
lećted from the wrecks of the veſſels formerly under the command of La
Pérouſe. f º
Commodore Hunter is at preſent upon his return home to England,
from whence he will probably tranſmit a more circumſtantial account of
this affair to France. w
From his own experience in approaching the Admiralty Iſlands, the
Engliſh Commander thinks that any veſſel intending to ſail thither ought
to endeavour to get carly into its latitude, in order to avoid being carried
away by the currents, which ſet to the caſt with prodigious ſtrength.
* * * (Signed) PREAUDET, Maſter of the Jaſon.
Iſle de France, 6th Nov. 1794.
Report
JANUARY.] of LA PEROUSE. - ôt
Report delivered by Pierre Magon Lépinay, Maſier of the Maria Helena,
from Batavia, to Saint-Felix, Commander of the Naval Forces of France
in the Indian Seas.
The commander and officers of the Sirius Engliſh frigate, after being
ſhipwrecked off Norfolk Iſland, were carried to Botany Bay, from
whence they ſailed in a ſmall Dutch veſſel for Batavia, where they ar-
rived towards the latter end of September, in the preſent year, after a
paſſage of about ſix months.
A day or two after they had weathered the Straits of St. George, they
found themſelves as ſoon as it dawned within ſight of two of the Admi-
ralty Iſlands, which were very near them; they immediately ſounded,
but could not reach the bottom,
They afterwards obſerved two canoes that contained about twelve men
each, rowing from the iſlands towards them ; but though they would
not come on board the veſſel, they however approached very near to it.
There was then very little wind blowing. The veſſel was expoſed to a
current which drove it off from the land: at any rate, the Dutch cap-
tain had no inclination to approach nearer to the ſhore. It was obſerved
that two of the men in the canoes had ſword-belts ſimilar to thoſe worn
by European officers; they made ſigns as if they wiſhed to have their beards
ſhaved, and many of them had pieces of red and blue cloth about their dreſs,
which proved that they had had ſome communication with Europeans.
As Captain Hunter, Commander of the Sirius, had been informed at Bo- -
tany Bay by La Pérouſe himſelf, that his intention was to paſs the Straits
of St. George; all the officers of that frigate were of opinion that they s
had thus unexpectedly diſcovered the iſlands upon which he was caſt away.
I, the underwritten, certify that the above narrative is conformable to,
what I have collected from different converſations with the officers of the
Sirius, who had arrived at Batavia after the ſhipwreck of that frigate, in a
ſmall Dutch veſſel, with which I was in company during the month of
Oćtober. y (Signed) MAGoN LEPINAx,
... Iſle de France, 31ſt Oót. 1791.
*
6
2
VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
As Commodore Hunter was at the Cape of Good Hope, on his return
from Batavia to England, at the moment when we arrived there; we
had reaſon to expect that we ſhould receive from him every poſſible
information concerning what he had ſeen at the Admiralty Iſlands; but
were ſurprized to hear that he had failed from the Cape two hours after
we had caſt anchor. He was probably well acquainted with the obječt
of our expedition ; for we were expected at the Cape, and our Com-
mander's flag muſt have convinced him that theſe were the ſhips ſent in
ſearch of La Pérouſe. It appeared very aſtoniſhing to us, that he had not
attempted to convey to us even the ſcanty information which Préaudet
and Magon Lépinay had colle&ted from himſelf and his officers at Bata-
via. Our amazement was ſtill greater, when we underſtood that Com-
modore Hunter had not only not ſuffered any thing to tranſpire during
his ſtay at the Cape, which could give ground to believe that he had ſeen
ſavages dreſſed in the uniforms of the French marines, but that he had
even expreſsly declared to ſeveral of the members of the regency, and in
particular to his friend Mr. Gordon, that he knew nothing of the fačts re-
ported upon the arrival of the Atalante : neither was these any reaſon to
ſuſpect that the reports left at the Cape, by Captain. Bolle, came from
Commodore Hunter himſelf. 4
Captain Bligh, Commander of the Engliſh floop Providence, which had
been fitted out for the purpoſe of ſearching for the bread-fruit tree in the
Society Iſlands, had caſt anchor in Table-bay ſhortly after the Atalante
had ſailed from thence. It appeared that Captain Bligh had heard no-
thing from Commodore Hunter relative to the depoſitions of the two
French captains; but, that upon the information communicated to him by
perſons who had ſpoken with the captain of the Atalante, he had aſſured
Colonel Gordon, that when he returned to the Society Iſlands, he would
make what enquiries he was able in thoſe parts where La Pérouſe was re-
ported to have been caſt away, and endeavour to ſaye ſome of the m-
mains of that unfortunate expedition. . -
This was the ſecond cxpedition which Captain Bligh had undertaken
in queſt of the bread-fruit tree. In the courſe of the firſt voyage which
he
*ANUARY.] . OF LA PERQTJSE. 63
he made for the purpoſe of procuring this valuable tree to the Weſt In-
dian ſettlements of the Engliſh, he had been ſet on ſhore in conſequence
of a mutiny amongſt the crew, of which he publiſhed an account after his
return to England.
We learnt that the Pandora Engliſh frigate, commanded by Captain
Edwards, had ſince been at the Society Iſlands, where they had ſeized
fourteen of the mutineers. Four of them afterwards made their eſcape
when the veſſel was run aground off Norfolk Iſland. The ringleader of
the mutineers, Chriſtian, who had been maſter of the veſſel under the
command of Captain Bligh, had eſcaped with nine others to another
iſland, and carried ſeveral of the natives with him. One of the of
ficers of the Pandora lately arrived at the Cape, aſſured us that Bligh had
‘behaved very ill to Chriſtian, and that an abuſe of authority on the ſide of
the captain was the cauſe of all his ſubſequent misfortunes. Chriſtian,
though maſter of the veſſel, had been maltreated, according to Captain
Bligh's orders, as if he had been a common ſailor of the loweſt rank. If
this be the fact, Captain Bligh diſguiſes the truth when he aſſerts, that he
had always treated him with the greateſt liberality. --
There were at that time eighteen ſhips lying at anchor at the Cape, of
which twelve were Dutch, two French, two American, and two Engliſh.
At ſun-riſe we ſaluted the place with thirteen guns, which it returned
with the ſame number.
18th. At nine o'clock the Commander of our expedition went on ſhore;
upon which the town ſaluted him with fifteen guns, which we returned
gun for gun. The Governor had ſent ſeveral carriages, and a large com-
pany of muſicians to attend General Dentrecaſteaux at the place where he
landed. Accompanied by the muſicians, playing upon their inſtruments
in a very boiſterous manner, he went with ſome of his officers to wait upon
the members of the regency, who received him in a full aſſembly of the
council, and ſoon after returned his viſit, at the houſe of the Chargé d'Af-
faires of France, where he lodged.
The greater part of our officers took lodgings in different houſes of the
town. The Dutch inhabitants at the Cape are known to be cry fond of
º lodging
64 VOYAGE IN SEARCH * {1792.
lodging ſtrangers at their houſes. Their common price is a piaſtre a day.
I took a lodging, together with ſome of my travelling companions, at
the houſe of a M. de Lettre. - - *
19th. The ſummit of the Table Mountain was hid in thick clouds,
which at this ſeaſon of the year is a certain prognoſtic of high winds from
the ſouth-eaſt, that generally continue for two or three days. The gales
were this time ſo violent, that during the 4t the time they prevailed no
yeſſel of the fize of a ſloop dare venture to at theſe were ſhore.
Though the clouds appeared immo'ſſioniſhing to us? the tºp of the
mountain, even when the winds blew Äty information wº Rºe, they
were, in fact, perpetually replaced by fi himſelf and his officers a which
they were driven along, after their ſepale hea we underſtood that dimi-
niſhing their coheſion, they were ſoon diffipated in time. tranſpire. duriºſe
often obſerved large maſſes of theſe clouds, which as ſoon as LRavy' ſes, ſº
detached from the ſummit, immediately diſappeared. * ~ – *
Theſe violent gales from the ſouth-eaſt, which have often been noticed
by travellers, appeared to me to proceed from the nature of the coaſt,
which forms a very high ridge from the Cape Town as far as to the
mouth of Falſe Bay, and acts as a barrier, preventing the ſouth-eaſt winds
from paſſing beyond it. Whenever theſe winds get into Falſe Bay, it can
only happen in conſequence of their having ſurmounted this obſtacle
which oppoſes them at the ſouthern extremity of Africa. The dilatation
of the lower column of air is ſo much impeded by the compreſfion which
it ſuffers, in its aſcent towards the ſummit of this ridge, from the weight
of the ſuperincumbent column, that, whenever it has paſſed theſe heights,
the re-aētion of its elaſticity is proportionate to the diminution of the re-
ſiſtance before oppoſed to its czpanſion. It impetuoſity is then ſuch as
frequently to looſen ſhips lying in the road from their anchors, and ſet
them adrift. - .
The violence of theſe winds is the greateſt where they deſcend along
thc declivity of theſe mountains: in the interior of the country ſituated
at a ſmall diſtance to the eaſtward, on the contrary, they are very mode-
rate; as I have had occaſion to remark in ſeveral excurſions which I made
from the town. t *
The
SANUARY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 63
The clouds, with which the ſummit of the ridge is at ſuch times co-
vered, are naturally produced from the enormous maſs of air, which, af-
ter becoming ſurcharged with moiſture during its paſſage over a vaſt ex-
tent of ocean, when it aſcends into the higher regions of the atmoſphere,
depoſits, in the form of clouds, the ſuperabundant water which, on ac-
count of the change of temperature, it can no longer retain in a ſtate of
folution. * *
In the courſe of the night, the long boat of the Eſperance was torn by
the gale from her ſtern, and loſt. To ſupply its place, a ſort of light veſ-
fel uſed in the whale-fiſhery, was purchaſed of an American ſhip.
20th. Though the ſouth-eaſt wind continued to blow with great vio-
lence, I made an excurſion in the neighbourhood of the town, where I
found, in great abundance, two ſpecies of the chironia, termed C. trinervia
and C. dendroides. The gorteria ciliaris likewiſe grew at the foot of the
mountains. The beautiful ſhrub, known by the name of brunea palacea,
adorned the riſing grounds. No inſects, of courſe, could be ſeen whilſt
the winds blew with ſuch violence.
I took a view of the Company's garden, of which many travellers ſpeak
in terms of enthuſiaſtic admiration. It is, nevertheleſs, nothing more
than an immenſe incloſure, which contains ſome very fine oaks. Several
ſquare plots of ground hedged round with myrtles, are planted with
•kitchen-vegetables; but very few curious plants are to be ſeen there.
They alſo contain ſeveral of the orchard-trees of Europe. I obſerved
ſome bananas, the leaves of which had been torn into ſlender ſtrips by the
wind.
The falco ſerpentarius of Linnaeus I ſaw very tame in a houſe belonging
to the Governor. -
The menagery ſituated, at the extremity of this garden, contained but
a very ſmall number of uncommon animals, the chief of which were the
oſtrich, the zebra, the porcupine, the jackall, and ſeveral birds; amongſt
others, the bald-headed curlieu of Buffon, (tentalus calvus, Linn.)
f The gales were leſs violent in the evening, and gave us hopes of fine
weather, - . . .
I A veſſel
66 * VOYAGE IN SEARCH # 1792.
Asº-
A veſſel employed in the ſlave-trade lay at anchor in the road. It had
lately arrived from Mozambique, and its cargo of four hundred negroes
were, for the preſent, on ſhore. It was a moſt melancholy ſpectacle, to
behold theſe miſerable wretches, the greater part of whom were already
afflićted with the ſcurvy, after a very ſhort paſſage, crowded into three
narrow rooms, from whence they were ſhortly to be carried on board,
doomed to waſte their lives in ſupporting the luxury of ſome wealthy Ame-
rican. The ſhip had been trading with countries where dogs are in
great requeſt ; and theſe dealers in human lives did not ſcruple to avow
that they often purchaſed two or three blacks for one handſome dog.
On the 22d, I ſpent the day in examining the Lion's Mountain. The
foil of this mountain, which derives its name from the appearance which it
preſents when ſeen at a diſtance by ſea, is very unfavourable to vegetation.
t is almoſt every where covered, even as far as the ſea-ſide, with hard
fteatitcs of a greyiſh colour, and ſo barren that I carried home with me
but very few ſpecimens of plants. On the following day I viſited the
Devil's Mountain. It well deſerves its appellation, on account of the
violence of the ſouth-eaſt winds, which is much greater at the declivity
of this mountain, than in any other part of the country. The delightfuk
vale, which ſeparates this mountain from the Lion's Mountain, is adorned
with the beautiful ſpecies of the protea, named by Linn. protea argentea,
the tufted tops of which reſiſt the violent blaſts of wind from the ſur-
rounding mountains. The leaves of this tree are covered with a ſort of
down, which grows the thickeſt on the parts moſt expoſed to the wind.
This circumſtance may here be remarked in moſt of the plants liable
to be beaten by the winds, which renders it probable, that their down
ſerves them as a defence from the injury they might otherwiſe receive from
them. . . & -
The fertility of this valley afforded a remarkable contraſt with
the barrenneſs of the Lion's Mountain. The vegetable kingdom ap-
peared here in its higheſt luxuriance. Where the grounds roſe with
an eaſy aſcent, they were beſpangled with the tulip of the Cape of Good
Hope (hamanthus coccinea, Linn.) ; a variety of different kinds of ſhrubs
projećted
7ANUARY.] OR LA PEROUSE. 67
projećted from the cleft between the rocks, and at their baſes grew the
beautiful ſlabe gnaphaloides, amongſt an abundance of other plants.
24th. As the preparation of the plants, which I had collected on the
preceding day, occupied a great portion of my time, I had not leiſure to
undertake any long excurſion; I therefore confined myſelf to ſhort walks
in the neighbourhood of the town.
The falſe aloé, termed by botaniſts agave vivipara, was then in full
flower. I admired the lightneſs with which the black titmouſe (farus
ater, Linn.) hovered about this plant, whilſt it fed upon the ſaccharine
liquor which exudes from the baſes of its corollac. It was with regret that
I killed ſome of theſe beautiful little birds, in order to carry off their
ſpoils.
Three of us, who were walking together, followed a narrow path till
within a ſmall diſtance of the country-houſe of the Fiſcal : his name was
Deneſs. This man, habituated to deſpotic authority over his inferiors,
wanted to hinder us from walking over ſome uncultivated grounds, which,
as he told us with great emphaſis, were his property. We were not a
little aſtoniſhed at this prohibition, uttered in ſo dićtatorial a tone; for
the Fiſcal ſeemed fully perſuaded that we durſt not be ſo raſh as to pro-
ceed any farther. We, however, after having repreſented to him that
we could not poſſibly do any harm to his uncultivated ſtony grounds,
purſued our route. The petty Vizier fell into a violent rage at ſeeing
how little we minded his orders, and not being able to anſwer our remon-
ſtrances, he told us in very bad French, that ſuch were his commands,
and it required no further explanation.
Two negroes, who had accompanied us from the town, trembled at,
the ſound of the Fiſcal's voice, and it was with difficulty that we could
perſuade them to remain with us: for they told us, whilſt they ſhuddered
with horror, that this Monſieur Deneſs was the perſon who preſided at
the whippings that were adminiſtered according to the orders of the of
ficers of police. † §
It is a remarkable circumſtance that the Fiſcal is here inveſted with
the charge of inſpection over all the ſervants of the Company, and holds
| 2 his
6&. VOYAGE IN SEATCH [1792;
his office independently of any other perſon. It ſeems ſtill more ſtrange
that ſo important a truſt ſhould be committed to the hands of an officer
of police, who is thus enabled to practiſe all the extortions for which his
office affords him ſuch ample opportunities; for he it is who both fixes the
amount of fines, and collects their produce. In conſequence of this re-
gulation, pecuniary puniſhments are the only ones inflićted upon thoſe
who are able to pay: the reſt he always orders to be whipped.
25th. I employed this day in taking a view of the Table Mountain,
which derives its appellation from the horizontal plain which its ſummit
preſents when ſeen at a diſtance.
I had frequently to croſs a brook that flows down this mountain.
The large ſtones, rounded by frićtion, that are found on its ſhore, ſhew
that in the rainy ſeaſon the water deſcends in torrents.
About half way up the mountain I found the theftum ſtričium. A
little higher up I met with the magnificent umbelliferous plant, called
by botaniſts hermas depauperata, the beautiful fern, acroftichum pećinatum;
the bubon galbanum, the reſiio ſimplex, &c. * ,
That portion of the mountain which I had hitherto aſcended, was com-
poſed of greyiſh free-ſtone, very hard, and covered with maſſes of a
fine white-coloured quartz, which ſerved as a baſis to ſeveral very cloſe
ftrata of micaceous ſchiſtus.
Having aſcended upwards of 350 toiſes perpendicular height, I arrived
at a fiſſure in the ſide of the mountain, which, when ſeen from the town,
does not appear to afford a paſſage to the ſummit; but I found the diſ-
tant view had deceived me, for I diſcovered a path in it of no very diffi-
cult acceſs to perſons uſed to climbing mountains, being the track moſtly
frequented in order to arrive at the top, which is hardly to be ſurmounted
by any other. }
Though the part of the mountain where we now ſtood is about 500
toiſes perpendicular height, the heat of the atmoſphere raiſed the ther-
mometer to twenty degrees in the ſhade. -
Fuel is very ſcarce at the Cape of Good Hope; but though the mild-
neſs of the climate exempts the inhabitants from the neceſſity of employ-
*ng
JANUARY.] iOF LA PEROUSE. 69
ing artificial heat as a defence againſt the ſeverity of the weather, they
want it, however, for the purpoſes of cookery, and ſend their ſlaves even
far beyond the Table Mountain, to fetch the ſmall ſupply of wood which
they require. We met ſeveral blacks carrying to the town their bundles
of fuel, which conſiſted of the branches of different ſorts of ſhrubs :
amongſt others I diſtinguiſhed cultonia capeuſis, and ſeveral beautiful ſpe-
cies of the protea. I was much gratified at having an opportunity to ſee
theſe fine plants, and regretted only that they had been gathered for no
other purpoſe than to ſerve as fuel. I picked out ſome ſpecimens for my-
ſelf, and the blacks, whoſe burthens were not become much lighter for
what I had taken away, proceeded on their journey to the town. It gave
us pain to obſerve that theſe miſerable beings were obliged to march for-
ward, without ever halting; though the ſteep deſcent of the mountain
muſt have been extremely fatiguing.
The mountains in the neighbourhood of the town ſerve as a place of
refuge for ſlaves, whom the barbarous treatment they endure compels
to attempt their eſcape. Driven by hunger they then frequently ap-
proach, under cover of the night, to habitations, in order to procure by
theft their ſcanty means of ſubſiſtence. That they prefer ſuch a miſerable
ftate of exiſtence to remaining with their maſters, proves how inhuman
the treatment muſt be to which they are expoſed. It muſt be very dan-
gerous to truſt one's ſelf, alone and unarmed, amongſt the clefts of the
rocks, where theſe wretches, driven by deſpair, ſhut themſelves from the
ſight of the ſun, in order to eſcape from ſlavery. \
Some drops of water, that ooze at this height from fiſſures between
the beds of micaceous ſchiſtus, afford the traveller means of quenching his
thirſt.
The high borders of the cleft, through which we were aſcending, were
ornamented with various beautiful ſpecies of lilacs: we obſerved particu-
łarly the antholiza-ethiopica, remarkable for the brilliant appearance of its
fearlet bloſſoms.
Having arrived at the ſummit of the mountain, we were beginning to
regale ourſelves upon the proviſions which we had brought with us, when
we obſerved ſome of the company of the Eſperance coming towards us.
who
7o VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
who had undertaken the ſame tour without providing themſelves with
any refreſhments for their journey ; and we were heartily willing to let
them ſhare in our frugal repaſt.
The rain diſcharged by the clouds which had been detained over the
fummit of the Table Mountain during ſeveral of the preceding days, had
formed pools in the clefts of the rock, between which I found a great
variety of curious plants.
The ſummit of the mountain preſents a view of Falſe Bay in its whole
extent, and I carefully followed it with my eye in all its windings. We
deſcended by the ſame track that we had aſcended. It was already dark
when I arrived in the town, loaded with an abundant colle&tion of plants.
20th. As ſoon as I had made the preparations requiſite for preſerving the
ſpecimens which I had collected, I directed my obſervations to the
caſtern part of the country.
Beyond the farther end of the bay there is a vaſt plain of ſand, on
which one is ſurpriſed to ſee a prodigious number of plants vegetating.
The moſt frequent are various ſpecies of the dioſma, polygala, and bor-
tonia. Theſe plants, however, would not be able to ſupport themſelves
in ſo barrch a ſoil, if they did not ſhoot their roots to a great depth into
the ground, ſo as there to imbibe the moiſture neceſſary for their vegeta-
tion.
I had to croſs ſeveral brooks, which take their riſe from the neigh-
bouring mountains, and ſome of which are loſt in the ſands before they
diſcharge themſelves into the ſca. In theſe moiſt ſituations I found the
beautiful ſhrub, gemthyllis ſpiralis. -
The fiſſures in the ſand ſerve as places of ſhelter for the ſnakes, which
one frequently finds ſleeping upon their borders; but as ſoon as one ap-
proaches them they immediately fly to their lurking-places for refuge.
27th. I reſolved to make a ſecond viſit to the Table Mountain. I went
a little off from the common path, and enriched my colleótion with fe-
veral plants which l had not ſeen before. Indeed it required a conſider-
able length of time to exhauſt all the botanical ſtores of a country which
produces ſuch an abundance of vegetables.
A thick fog ſuddenly ſpread itſelf over the part of the mountain where
I ſtood,
3 ANUARY.] OF LA PEROUSE. ;
i
f ſtood, and Óbliged me immediately to deſcend. I ſhould certainly have
loſt my way, had I not happened to be quite near to the path that leads
to the foot of the mountain. Although there blew but little wind at
that time upon the Table Mountain, the clouds, after paſſing over its
ſummit, precipitated themſelves in the form of miſts, in the ſame man-
ner as when they are impelled by the ſouth-eaſt gales.
28th. I enrichcd my colle&tion with a number of plants which I ga-
thered in the vicinity of the town.
I had hitherto obſerved but very few infeóts, as they do not generally
frequent places ſo much expoſed to currents of the air. i
On the 20th, I made an excurſion on the oppoſite ſide of the Table
Mountain, following the courſe of the valley which divides it from the
Lion's Mountain.
The cyanella capenſis grew quite cloſe to the edge of the ſea.
Having reached the heights, I had the pleaſure to ſee the ſides of the
rocks ornamented with different ſpecies of ſhrubs, amongſt which the
erica halicacaba particularly diſtinguiſhed itſelf, by the oval form, and
beautiful tints of its flowers.
The diſa grandiñora, one of the moſt beautiful plants of the claſs of
orchis, grew upon the ſide of the ſmall ſtreams that wind themſelves
among theſe mountains.
This excurſion proved the more gratifying to me, as I made it in the
company of M. Maſſon, who had acquired a very extenſive acquaintance
with botany, in the courſe of his travels.
The following days were employed by me in making new reſearches
in the places I had already viſited. Vegetation is here ſo varied, that I
continually met with new objećts of attention.
An Engliſh frigate, from Tellicherry, had been lying for five days at
anchor at the Cape, on its return to England to give an account of an cli-
gagement that had taken place between the French frigate La Reſolue,
of twelve guns, Captain Calaman, and the Engliſh frigate, Phenix, of
eighteen. The Engliſh frigate had attempted to make prizes of ſome
veſſels under the convoy of La Reſolue.
y t The
72 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
. The Engliſh, according to their uſual cuſtom, attempted to fpread re-
ports injurious to the chara&ter of Captain Calaman, who, according to
the accounts we received from Iſle de France, had condućted himſelf
with equal courage and generoſity. The Engliſh Commander would
have done well to have contradićted theſe reports, by giving a juſt ſtate-
ment of the facts; but it ſeemed it was his intereſt to diſguiſe them :
for it is an unheard-of thing for that nation to make an attempt upon
veſſels eſcorted by a ſhip carrying the flag of ours.
Another Engliſh veſſel, La Couronne, which arrived the day after the
frigate had come to anchor, obſerved the ſame condućt.
I Ought to remark, that our Commander having ſent an officer on
board each of theſe veſſels, to comply with a cuſtomary piece of eti-
quette; the Engliſh Captains were not polite enough to return the com-
pliment,
I had already provided myſelf with ſpecimens of moſt of the curious
plants that were to be found in the neighbourhood of the Cape Town;
and could not expect to encreaſe my collection, without making an ex-
curſion into ſome of the more diſtant parts of the country. I had for
feveral days entertained a wiſh to viſit the chain of mountains, called by
the Dutch Franſche-Hoek, ſituated at a much greater diſtance eaſtward
of the town than their appearance might lead one to ſuppoſe them-
Their aſpect gave me reaſon to hope that I ſhould find them abounding
with vegetable produćtions.
FEBRUARY 9. The gardener to our expedition made one of the party.
We had hired a Hottentot to lead the horſe that carried our baggage;
and a young negro, who hardly knew three words of the French lan-
guage, ſerved as our interpreter.
As a paſſport was neceſſary, M. Berg, one of the moſt amiable and in-
telligent men of the Company, provided us with one.
Colonel Gordon, Commander of the troops at the Cape, had furniſhed
me with letters of recommendation to ſeveral of the coloniſts.
This gentleman is the celebrated traveller, who communicated to Buf-
ſon the firſt authentic accounts he received concerning the Giraffe, an
w animal
FEBRUARY.] . OF LA PEROUSE. 7 3
animal till then very little known. Colonel Gordon had penetrated as
far as 21° S. lat, into the interior parts of Africa, with a view to making
diſcoveries in natural hiſtory. He has often aſſured me, that at this diſ- -
tance, more than twelve degrees north of the Cape, his barometrical
obſervations ſhewed him, that the ſurface of this Country was more
than a hundred toiſes above the level of the ſea; though, in traverſing
it, he had not been ſenſible of any riſing of the ground, but had
thought he travelled over a plain that was very little clevated. Theſe
obſervations, which he repeated at different times, after intervals of ſeve-
ral days, ſeem to demonſtrate that the ſurface of this country riſes, in
a gradual aſcent, to a height equal to that of the moſt elevated moun-
tains in the other parts of the globe.
I leave it to natural philoſophers to determine, whether or not the
ſinking of the mercury in the barometer proceeded from another cauſe
than that which produces the ſame effect, when this inſtrument is car-
ried upon high mountains.
We met a number of chariots drawn by three or four pairs of oxen.
They were returning empty to the town, each of them conducted by a
Hottentot, who ſtood erect in the carriage, and directed his team with
wonderful dexterity, by means of a long whip, which he held in his
hand. Though the foremoſt pair of oxen were at a great diſtance from
him, he never miſſed any one of them that wanted the laſh.
Our Hottentot marched on with his pipe in his mouth, and regaling
himſelf from time to time with the Hottentot's fig (meſºmbrianthemum
edule), which grew among the ſands on the road ſide, without ſeeming
to think of the horſe entruſted to his care; ſo that our baggage fell off
ſeveral times, and would have been left on the road, if we had not appriſed
our ſmoker of it, who was walking on without taking any notice of the
accident. We found it neceſſary to uſe threats in order to rouſe him
from his lethargy, and render him more attentive to his charge.
Several ſpecies of the geranium, polygala, lobelia, &c. grew upon the
ſandy plain through which we travelled.
Having arrived at ſome ſandy grounds, we ſaw ſeveral gazelles, but
K they
74 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
they kept at ſo great a diſtance from us that we were not able to ſhoot
any of them.
Two hours after dark, we arrived at the houſe of M. Boſman, at Bot-
toiary. The letter of recommendation, which Mr. Gordon had given
us, procured us a very friendly reception from this worthy planter, whom
we found ſitting at ſupper in the midſt of his numerous family. He im-
mediately invited us to fit down with him, and ſet before us ſome very
agreeable ſtrong-bodied wine, made from the grapes that grow about
Bottelary. Some merchants of the town ſell this wine at a very high
price, as Conſtantia wine, to which however it is inferior in quality;
and M. Boſman told us that it may be bought twelve times cheaper than
the other. -
M. Boſman, in his inſulated ſituation upon a ſmall ſpot of fertile
ground, ſurrounded by a large deſart of ſand, was, of courſe, very de-
ſirous of hearing our news ; but we found it very difficult to communi-
cate any to him, as our negro interpreter appeared now much leſs fit for
his office, than we had before conceived him to be. After having ſpent
a great deal of time with ſaying very little, we went to take our repoſe,
of which we ſtood in great need. We all envied the peaceable life
which this reſpectable planter leads, in the midſt of a family where the
greateſt ſimplicity of manners is united with the moſt engaging polite-
neſs.
1 oth. As ſoon as it was day, we went to take a view of the grounds
about this delightful habitation. We found in M. Boſman's garden moſt
of the kitchen-plants and fruits of Europe; fine plantations of almond-
trees roſe before the front of the houſe, which was ſurrounded on all
jdes with vineyards that conſtitute the chief wealth of the owner.
Soon after ſun-riſe, M. Boſman's youngeſt daughters, ſeeing that we
were colle&ting inſects, came to offer us their aſſiſtance. They hunted
them through the garden with incredible ſwiftneſs; and ſoon brought us
a fine colle&tion of ſuch as they thought the prettieſt.
As we were ſhortly to ſail from the Cape, we had not much time left
us for our expedition to Franſche Hoek. We therefore took leave of
this
FEBRUARY...] OF LA PEROUSE. 'lº
** A.
• this amiable family, with the moſt ſenſible regret, and proceeded on our
journey. .
We arrived in good time at Stellenboſch, where we ſtopped at the
houſe of M. Hoffman. *
The manner in which we were received at Stellenboſch afforded a
ſtriking contraſt with the frankneſs and cordiality of our reception at
Bottelary. This was a very pleaſant village; but we found that we were
not to expe&t every where that agreeable frankneſs of manners, which
charaćteriſes the planters of the Cape. We had imagined that a letter of
recommendation from ColonclGordon, addreſſed to M. Hoffman, would
be ſufficient to introduce us: but it was not till after he had carefully ex-
amined our paſſport, that he invited us to remain at his houſe. There
are no public inns at Stellenboſch, no more than at the Cape Town ; but
the Dutch inhabitants of the town accommodate ſtrangers at a ſettled
price, which indemnifies the landlord. We were lodged at M. Hoffman's
very nearly upon the ſame footing as at the Cape. t
On the following day I viſited the hills in the neighbourhood of Stel-
lenboſch.
The beautiful tree called brabeium ſellulifolium, remarkable for its fruit,
which reſembles in ſhape that of the almond-tree, grew here upon the
banks of a rivulet that runs through the village.
I enriched my collection with ſeveral kinds of orchis, and with the ſpe-
cies of the protea, called mellifera, fallens and ſhecioſa ; beſides a number of
other plants. *-
On the 12th we proceeded on our way, intending to arrive towards
evening at Franſche Hoek.
This place, which, as is implied by its name, is partly inhabited by
French, ſerved as an aſylum for the proteſtant families, which in con-
ſequence of the perſecutions thcy ſuffered on account of their religious
opinions, croſſed the occan, in the year 1075, with a view of eſtabliſhing
themſelves in this part of Africa, where they were well received by the
Governor, Simon V under Stel, and provided with every requiſite for ſol-
lowing the cnoployments of huſbandry.
ls º Tº e
! \
76 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
The wind from the ſouth-eaſt blew with force ſufficient to incommode
us on our march. It was, however, by no means ſo violent here, as we
learnt upon our arrival that it had been at the Cape. The great difference
in the force of theſe gales depends, undoubtedly, upon local cauſes, as I
have endeavoured to ſhew upon a former occaſion.
It was on this day that the pinnace of the Eſperance, commanded by
Citizen le Grand, not being able to reach the ſhip, was obliged to run
for ſhelter off the iſland of Robben.
We had to walk two hours after it was dark, before we arrived at
Franſche Hoek, where we preſented ourſelves at the houſe of Gabriel
Deprat, to whom I had a letter of recommendation. As he was abſent,
Jacob de Villiers, one of his neighbours, 3. ‘d us to remain at his houſe,
where we met with a very friendly res. s % We, ima“ ,
The names of theſe planters led uart of 1and, was, of & now amongſt
people with whom we could converſe in otº -owl, anguage; but theſe
Frenchmen by extraction, having been obliged to make uſe of the Dutch
for ſo long a ſpace of time, retained nothing of their mother-tongue beſides
their family names.
It will not be unintereſting to the reader to know the names of thoſe
French families that ſtill ſurvived in the midſt of theſe mountains. They
were the following: , -ºf
Lombart, Faure, Rotif, Blignant, Dupleſſis, Marée, Ponté, Naudé,
Cronier, Hugo, de Villiers, Marais, du Buiſſon, le Roux, Deprat, Rouſ.
ſeaux, Villiers, Terrons, Hubert.
We were here in a pleaſant valley, where the rays of the fun, refle&ted
from the ſurrounding mountains, ſoon ripen the grape, which is the
chief ſource of wealth to the inhabitants. A good deal of cheeſe is alſo
made here.
We employed the two following days in climbing up the mountains
in this neighbourhood. I here colle&ted ſpecimens of the protea florida
and ſerraria, amongſt a great variety of other plants.
Theſe mountains are compoſed chiefly of granite, and a very hard ſort
ºf free-ſtone. The mould produced by the decay of the vegetables that
grow
FEBRUARY.] VOYAGE IN SEARCH 77
grow upon them, is the cauſe of the fertility of the vallies where the co-
loniſts reſide. Hence they are obliged to travel over ſandy deſarts in or-
der to carry the produce of their labour to the town. This kind of ſitua-
tion is common to all the eſtabliſhments at any conſiderable diſtance from
the Cape. The cultivators are neceſſitated to go more than 500,000
toiſes into the interior of Africa, in order to ſeek out ſome ſpots of
arable land, ſcattered like iſlands in an ocean of ſand; and after they
have found them, every one applies to the ground he has cleared
whatever mode of cultivation he thinks moſt adopted to the ſoil.
The black ſlaves, though obliged to labour very hard, are in gcneral
treated with humanity. It is remarkable that, contrary to the practice
of the Spaniards, who always endeavour to make proſelytes of their ſlaves,
the Dutch planters leave theirs in the moſt profound ignorance of their
religion.
We frequently ſaw the ſnakes, which are much dreaded by the inha-
bitants of the country, lying in wait under the trees for the birds which
often become their prey.
The zebras are very common in theſe mountains: they run away with
prodigious ſwiftneſs upon the approach of a man.
The ape termed magot by Buffon (ſimia inuuus, Linn.), ſometimes
came very near to the houſe where we lodged. I once witneſſed a ſingular
fačt, which ſhews what authority theſe animals poſſeſs over their young.
A large ape that was followed by a very little one, thinking himſelf unob-
ſerved, took it up in one of his paws and beat it for a conſiderable ſpace of
time with the other. If the apes knew how to proportion the puniſhment
to the offence, the cub muſt have been very naughty; for he got a moſt
ſevere beating.
The olive-coloured thruſh, and the ſtarling of the Cape of Good Hope,
with ſome wood-pcckers, &c. were the birds I moſt frequently ſaw during
this excurſion.
As our departure from the Cape was fixed to take place very ſoon, we
were obliged to leave Franche Hoek much ſooner than we could have
wiſhed. We werc in ſuch haſte to return to the town, that we bade
adieu
78 OF LA PEROUSE. [1792.
adieu to our worthy hoſt Jacob de Villiers, at ten o'clock in the evening,
and immediately ſet out on our journey. We marched the whole night
through, and at length arrived at the ſame hour of the following evening
in the town, having travelled by way of the Paarl-Berg and Paarde-Berg.
Such a forced march could not fail to prove extremely fatiguing to us, who
had for ſeveral days paſt enjoyed but a very few hours ſleep. One of the ſer-
vants belonging to the Eſperance, Emard Serpoy, who had wiſhed to ac-
company us, as he was paſſionately fond of ſhooting, was ſo overtaken with
drowſineſs about midnight, that we were obliged to let him ſleep for half
an hour upon the road, before he was able to proceed any farther with us.
I was ſorry to learn, at my return from Franche Hoek, that we were
to loſe three of our travelling companions, namely, the aſtronomer Ber-
trand, the naturaliſt Blavier, and the painter Ely, who had requeſted the
Commander to leave them on ſhore, as their health did not allow them
to accompany us farther on our expedition. Bertrand having aſcended
the Table mountain a few days before, in order to make ſome barometri-
cal obſervations, had fallen in ſuch a manner as to be very ſeverely hurt. I
was informed at my return to France, that he was not ſo fortunate as to
ſee his country once more, having died at the Cape, a ſhort time after our
dcparture. -
As all the houſes in the Cape Town are built with flat roofs, it preſents
a very agreeable view. The fortifications on the ſide facing the ſea had
bcen rendered ſtronger, a few years ago, by additional ramparts.
The Commander perſuaded me, as the veſſels were already ſo much
lumbered, to leave the colle&tions of natural hiſtory, which I had made
during our ſtay at the Cape, in the hands of Gui, agent of the French
government. This perſon promiſed to ſend them to France by the firſt
opportunity. They, however, never arrived there, and I was informed at
the Iſle de France, upon my return from the South Sea, that they had been
ſeen by the naturaliſts Macé and Aubert Petit Thouars, depoſited in a
granary belonging to this agent, long after our departure from the Cape;
though he had had plenty of opportunitics to ſend them to France, if his
deſign had been to fulfil his engagement. . . . . . . . . . . . .
Few
FEBRUARY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 70
Few ſpots of the globe ſo well deſerve the attention of a commercial
nation, as the Cape of Good Hope. Its ſituation has rendered it as an
anchoring ſtation almoſt indiſperiſably neceſſary for ſhips ſailing to the
Eaſt Indies. It affords abundance of proviſions; but the reſtrićtive regu-
lations daily diminiſh the number of ſhips frequenting this harbour, as
they now endeavour to reach the place of their deſtination without touch-
ing at the Cape; and ſome put into the harbour at St. Helena, where
they are able to proviſion themſelves at an eaſier rate.
The ſpirit of ſpeculation that prevails amongſt the Dutch Company,
has often induced them to feign a great ſcarcity of proviſions at the Cape,
in order to enhance their price. The cultivators are not permitted to
enter into a direct bargain with ſtrangers for the produce of their lands;
but are obliged to leave them to be diſpoſed of by the Company, who fre-
quently purchaſe them at a price four times leſs than that which they
themſelves receive.
The vexatious interference of the ſuperior agents in the concerns of
their ſubordinate officers, turns like, wife to the diſadvantage of ſtrangers,
who find it impoſſible to eſcape from the rapacity of ſo many perſons, all
combined againſt their intereſt. This avaricious ſpirit gradually under-
mines the proſperity of this country, as it renders navigators unwilling to
touch at the Cape whenever they can avoid it. A ruinous propenſity to
extravagance, which has for ſome years paſt prevailed amongſt the wo—
men, has produced a great change in the manners of the inhabitants, who
are now eagerly intent upon adopting all the faſhions of Europe.
All theſe evils have ariſen from the Dutch government having ſo
groſsly miſtaken its own intereſt, as to leave a place of the laſt import-
ance to the navigation of India, under the direction of a company of pri-
vate merchants. But it is known, that the political views of this people
generally act in ſubordination to the deſire of gain, which governs them,
and is often in contradićtion with their intereſts as a nation.
It was then expected that commiſſaries were to be ſent from Europe,
in order to put aflaus upon a better footing : but ſuch commiſſaries have
been ſent ſeveral times, and the affairs ſtill remained in their former con-
dition. We
8 O VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
We laid in a ſufficient ſtock of proviſions at the Cape to ſupply the
place of what we had already conſumed. It would have been well if as
much of our European ſtock as was bad in its quality had been changed
for better. The contračtors had deceived us in the quality of the wine
which we bought of them. We had paid them double the ordinary price,
that we might have it of the beſt quality, and ſuch as would keep for a
long time. Part of it, however, was already ſpoiled before we reached the
Cape. When we arrived there, it was a matter of the utmoſt importance
to have it changed, and the more ſo, as we knew we could not do it in
the ſubſequent part of our voyage. We might there have had our choice
bctween the wine of the country, and Bourdeaux wine, as a veſſel at an-
chor in the road had a cargo of the latter on board. Why it was ne-
glected, I am at a loſs to comprehend. The conſequence was, that our
bad wine grew worſe and worſe, till we were at length obliged to ſubſti-
tute brandy in its place. This piece of negligence deprived us of one of
the beſt means for preſerving the health of the crew during a voyage, in
the courſe of which they ran the hazard of being in want of every ne-
ceſſary.
The obſervations taken on board the Recherche, gave us for its anchor-
ing ſtation at the Cape of Good Hope, 33°54′24" S. lat. 16° 4'25" E.
longitude.
The variation of the magnetic needle at the ſame place was 24° 30′W.
Our aſtronomer Bertrand ſound, for the place of his obſervatory in
the town, 33° 55' 22" 4-5ths S. lat. 10° 3' 45" E. long.
The variation of the magnetic needle, as obſerved by him, was 24°
317 52" W. The dip of a flat needle gave 47° 25'.
During the whole time we lay at anchor, the mcroury in the thermo-
meter was never higher than 25° above 0.
CHAP.
FEBRUARY.] OF LA PEROUSE, 8 i
C H. A. P. IV.
Departure from the Cape of Good Hope.—Death of the Maſter-Carpenter of
the Recherche.—Divers Occurrences.—Singular Flight of the Albatroſs-
The Iſle of St. Paul ſeen.—Conflagration of its Foreſis.—Prodigious
Swarms of Inſects in our Ship's Biſcuit.—Violent Effects of the Surge.—
The Commander dangerouſly wounded.—Luminous Points at the Extre-
mity of the Conductors.--Large phoſphoreſcent Corpuſcles.—In Conſequence
of an erroneous Obſervation taken by Willaumez, we enter by Miſtake into
Tempeſt Bay inſtead of Adventure Bay.—General Obſervations upon the
Wariations of the Magnetic Needle—Gradual Diminution of the Phoſpho-
reſcency of the Water, proportionate to our Diſtance from the Land.—
Courſe of the Currents.-We are obliged to heat the Place where our Time-
keepers are kept.—Anchorage in Port Dentrecaſſeaux.
16th FEBRUARY.
E waited only for a favourable wind to quit our ſtation at the
the Cape, when a ſouth-eaſt breeze ſpringing up about ten
o'clock in the forenoon, enabled us to get under way. Scarcely had we
ſpread our ſails, when a ſudden ſquall from the mountains blew with
ſuch violence, that it prevented us for ſome time from making uſe of our
rudder, ſo that we were in danger of running foul of ſome of the ſhips
which lay at anchor in the road. However, we ſoon run paſt them, and
flood for the offing.
18th. About eight in the morning our maſter-carpenter, Louis Gargan,
died, a vićtim to the exceſſes in which he had indulged during our ſtay
at the Cape. A fever, which appeared ſlight in its commencement, grew
afterwards ſo violent as to put an end to his life. We felt the loſs of
this man the more ſenſibly, as the carpenter of a ſhip is one of the moſt
uſeful perſons on board, eſpecially in a voyage undertaken for the Pur-
L poſe
82 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
poſe of diſcovery in the midſt of ſeas full of rocks and ſhoals, where one is
in perpetual danger of being ſhipwrecked, and where, if one does not
poſſeſs the means of conſtructing another veſſel to receive the crew, all
hopes of reviſiting one's native country muſt go with the wreck to the
bottom.
Two perſons had concealed themſelves in the ſhip before our depar-
ture from the Cape, and did not make their appearance upon deck till we
were ſo far from the land that it was no more practicable to put them on
ſhore. They were, of courſe, permitted to accompany us. The one was
a foldier, deſerted from the garriſon at the Cape; the other a German, a
very ſkilful workman in mathematical inſtruments, who had practiſed his
trade for nine years in England. The Engliſh, he told us, were going to
ſend him to Botany-bay, amongſt a great number of other convićts. He
aſſured us, that he had been condemned to be ſent thither for debt.
Having ſeized an opportunity of eſcaping from the veſſel where he was
confined, he fled for refuge to the mountains in the neighbourhood of
the Cape-Town. We had no uſe for the talents of this artiſt in the line
of his profeſſion; we therefore firſt employed him as our armourer, and
afterwards as a ſmith. The armourer of our ſhip had been left on ſhore
at the Cape, on account of ſickneſs.
On the 20th of February we weathered Needle Point, at the diſtance
of about 100 toiſes, with winds from S. W. and W.
On the 22d we were in lat. 35° S. long. 20° E. when the ſoundings
gave us our depth at 62 fathoms, over a bottom of grey calcareous ſand.
The currents had hitherto ſet to the N. W. but on the 25th they drove
us towards S. W. as we were now off the channel of Mozambique, where
the current, at this ſeaſon of the year, takes a S. W. direétion along the
coaſt of Natal, which we had in ſight.
On the 26th the ſurge ran ſo high, that a windmill, which we had
faſtened very ſtrongly to the poop, was carried away by the billows. As
our veſſel was much too heavily laden, we thought ourſelves indemnified
for the loſs, by getting rid of a burden of eleven hundred weight. I do
not know how it happened that we were burthened with ſuch an almoſt
uſcleſs
MARCH.] OF LA PEROUSE. 83
uſeleſs machine, ſince wherever we were able to procure wheat, we could
likewiſe procure flour. At any rate, a hand-mill ſix times lighter, would
have been leſs cumberſome, and would have anſwered our purpoſe
better.
The rolling of the veſſel was ſo violent, that our time-keepers ſtruck
againſt the ſides' of their boxes, which ought to have been made rather
more ſpacious.
We ſtill ſaw a great number of flying fiſh, though we had already
paſſed the 358 of S. latitude.
The quarter-galleries of both veſſels were built much too low, parti-
cularly confidering they drew ſo deep. We had reaſon to apprehend
that they might be carried away by the ſurge, if it ſhould long continue
to run ſo high : thoſe of the lower deck of the Eſperance were already
conſiderably damaged.
29th. At this ſeaſon of the year, veſſels that approach near to the
mouth of the channel of Mozambique, generally meet with violent
ſtorms. The gradual fall of the mercury in the barometer to the amount
of eight lines, whilſt the north-eaſt winds blew from this gulph, gave us
a preſage of a ſtill more violent hurricane. The clouds contained ſuch a
ſuperabundance of electric matter, that though our conductors helped to
draw off a portion of it, the lightning frequently ſtruck into the water at
the diſtance of a few yards from our veſſel. A gale from the eaſt, which
brought back fair weather, was preceded by a riſe of two lines in the
mercury of the barometer. On the 1ſt of March, the ſea was ſwelled to
ſuch a height by this gale, that we often loſt fight of our conſort behind
the billows. This veſſel, ſeen at the diſtance of two or three hundred
toiſes, preſented a magnificent ſpectacle; ſometimes it appeared buried in
the waves; again it emerged, and mounted to the very ſummit of the
ſurge, ſhewing a great part of its keel above the water.
3d. As the ſwell abated, we knew that we had ſailed beyond the mouth
of the channel of Mozambique; for, although the wind continued to blow
with nearly the ſame violence as on the preceding days, the ſea, being
ſheltercd by the coaſts of Madagaſcar, became very tranquil. We ſaw a
L 2 prodi gious
84 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
Prodigious quantity of the fºcus pyrifºrmis, the largeſt ſpecies of that genus,
floating upon the ſurface of the water: they had undoubtedly been de-
tached from the rocks that bound the coaſt of that large iſland. This fu-
cus, which is ſeveral yards in length, is provided with ſmall bladders filled
with air at the extremities of its higheſt leaves, whereby it is enabled in
its growth to take a direction towards the ſurface of the water.
About five o'clock in the evening we were ſurrounded by a great num-
ber of whales, which came within a hundred yards of our ſhip. The Anglo-
Americans, who ſometimes viſit theſe ſeas in order to fiſh for the whales,
are more than indemnified for the expences of their equipment by the pro-
fits from the oil which they carry home.
The depoſitions of the Captains Magon Lépinay and Préaudet, had de-
termined our Commander to endeavour to reach the Admiralty Iſlands as
ſoon as poſſible, thinking that, after paſſing along the north coaſt of New
Holland, we ſhould be able to arrive there before the return of the eaſtern
monſoon. We had, however, made as yet but very little way, being, on
the 6th of March, only in 44° E. lon. The apprehenſion of being de-
tained at the Molucca Iſlands during the whole time of the eaſt monſoon,
which was expected to ſet in during the month of March, induced him
to relinquiſh his former intention, and reſolve to double the Cape of Van
Diemen, in order to get into the South Seas.
About half an hour after ſix o'clock in the morning, he ſent a boat to
the Eſperance to acquaint the Captain with his determination. The wind
fell all of a ſudden when the two ſhips were very cloſe to each other. A
very high ſurge increaſed the danger of our ſituation; ſo that the bowſprit
of the Eſperance was very near running foul of our ſtern, had the veſſels
not been kept clear of each other by the boats. -
We found that the currents ſet to the north. The ring by which
the long-boat, that had been ſent to take an obſervation of their direétion,
was faſtened to the cable, gave way as they were hoiſting it on board, and
the compaſs that they had been uſing was deſtroyed.
Though we were upwards of 1,000,000 toiſes from the Cape of Good
Hope, we ſaw ſeveral albatroſſes (diomedea exulans), ſome of which let us
- COII) C
MARCH.] OF LA PEROUSE. 85
come very near them, as they floated upon the furface of the ſea. We
frequently obſerved them thruſt their beaks very deep under the water to
ſeize their prey.
The flight of theſe birds is very aſtoniſhing. One cannot perceive any
motion of their wings except at the moment they raiſe themſelves into the
air; when they frequently uſe their feet alſo, which, being webbed, ſerve
them to make ſeveral ſtrokes againſt the water, in order to raiſe themſelves
out of it. This impulſion being once given, they have no more occaſion
to ſtrike their wings together, but hold them very widely expanded, whilſt
they ſail along, balancing their bodies alternately from right to left, and
ſkimming ſwiftly over the ſurface of the ſea in queſt of their food. This
mode of poiſing themſelves in the air undoubtedly ſerves to accelerate their
flight, but one can hardly ſuppoſe it to be ſufficient for ſupporting them
above the ſurface. Perhaps ſome imperceptible tremulous motion of
their feathers may be the principal cauſe of their extraordinary mode of
flying. If that be the caſe, they muſt be provided with ſome particular
muſcles adapted for the purpoſe; on which account I think that the
ſtrućture of the albatroſs deſerves to be very attentively inveſtigated by
anatomiſts.
The puffins of Buffon (procellaria puffinus), were very numerous in
theſe ſeas. The flight of this bird is performed in a manner analogous to
that of the albatroſs, for he often ſkims along for a great length of time
without any perceptible motion of his wings: it is only when he changes
his oblique poſition from one ſide to the other that one may obſerve him
{trike the air with the lowermoſt wing, by which his body is immediately
inclined in the oppoſite direétion.
We were ſteering our courſe S. E. E. in order to paſs between the
iſlands of St. Paul and Amſterdam; but the wind having ſhifted to S. E.
we were obliged to tack S. S. W.
7th. About nine o'clock in the evening, as we were in lat, 34°45' S. and
long. 44° 5' E. the wind ſmelt very ſtrong of ſea-water. Had we been
ſailing in parts leſs known than theſe, we ſhould have had reaſon to ap-
prehend that we were very near to ſome iſland. It is probable that
the
86. VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
the ſmell proceeded from a quantity of fucus detached from the ſouth
coaſt of Madagaſcar, and carried a great way into the ſea by the cur-
rentS.
One of our ſailors, in a fit of drunkenneſs, threw himſelf into the ſea.
As the weather happened very fortunately to be calm he was taken up and
put on board; but this immerſion only increaſed his drunkenneſs, and he
would have thrown himſelf again into the water if he had not been
held faſt.
We continued for twelve days with ſlight breezes that ſhifted from
S. S. W. to N. N. W. veering round by E. to direét our courſe, as near
as poſſible, ſo as to paſs between the iſlands of Amſterdam and St. Paul.
Though this courſe was the ſhorteſt, with reſpect to diſtance, that we
could have taken in order to arrive at the channel through which we in-
tended to ſail, the want of wind detained us much longer than might
have been the caſe had we ſteered in another direétion. By ſailing more
direétly ſouthward, we ſhould ſoon have met with winds that would have
carried us in a ſhort time to the Cape of Van Diemen.
It was not before the 28th of March, when we were in lat. 374° S.
that the N. N. W. wind began to blow pretty freſh. A great flight of
gulls and mews ſhowed us that we were near land; as theſe birds never
fly to any great diſtance from the ſhore. We at length came in fight of
it about half after one in the afternoon. It was the iſland of St. Paul,
which bore S. E. at the diſtance of about 20,000 toiſes. This iſland was
diſcovered in 1696 by Captain Valming, and called by him the Iſle of
Amſterdam, whilſt he gave the name of the Iſle of St. Paul to the moſt
ſouthern of the two. Captain Cook, whom I have herein followed,
reverſed theſe appellations, and gave the name of Iſle of Amſterdam to
the ſouthernmoſt, and that of Iſle of St. Paul to the other.
The Iſle of St. Paul preſented itſelf, at a diſtance, as if covercq with
thick clouds, above which the tops of the mountains were viſible. In four
hours time we were near enough to perceive that theſe clouds aroſe from
the iſland itſelf, from whence a thick ſmoke aſcended, which almoſt en-
tirely covered it, eſpecially towards the north. We obſerved flames in
different
MARCH.] OF LA PEROUSE. 87
different places, and ſoon perceived that the forcſts were on fire: the
courſe of the flames and ſmoke, which appeared ſucceſſively in different
parts of the country, pointed out to us the progreſs of the conflagration.
We ſteered our courſe ſo as to paſs as near as poſſible to windward of the
iſland. The ſame ſpecies of birds that we had obſerved a few hours be-
fore we eſpied land were flying about the rocks where they had their
neſts. A great number of ſeals ſwam amongſt large maſſes of fucus that
had been detached from the iſland, along the ſouthern coaſt of which we
ranged at the diſtance of about 250 toiſes from the ſhore. This coaſt is
very ſteep and perfectly ſafe : the ſurges, which followed its direction,
would have apprized us of our danger in approaching it if there had been
any ſhoals. The mountains on the ſouth-eaſt ſide of the iſland deſcend
with very ſteep declivities as far as the edges of the ſea, and appeared to
me to conſiſt of layers of free-ſtone, inclined from north to ſouth ſo as to
form an angle of fifty degrees with the horizon. Farther to the ſouth I
obſerved horizontal layers of the ſame kind of ſtone, from whence a ſmall
rivulet diſcharged itſelf, in a caſcade, into the ſea. The rocks facing the
ſea were ſhaped into a variety of thoſe groteſque figures, commonly termed
liſſils naturae. We obſerved a light ſmoke aſcending in puffs from a ſmall
ſubterraneous cavern at a little diſtance from the ſhore ; though we could
not learn whether the foreſts had caught fire from ſome conflagration in
the bowels of the earth, or had been kindled intentionally by the inhabi-
tants. I was informed at Iſle de France, upon my return from the South
Seas, that an American veſſel had left ſome men at the iſlands of Amſter-
dam and St. Paul, for the purpoſe of collecting oil from the fat of ſeals,
which are very numerous on thoſe coaſts. But though we watched very
attentively to ſee if any ſignal was made for our aſſiſtance, we obſerved
no ſigns of the iſland's being inhabited. At any rate it would have been
impoſſible to put in there, as we could not have found an anchoring-
place except to leeward of the iſland, where we ran the riſk of being ſuf-
focated by the ſmoke. The ſmell of the ſmoke ſeemed to ſhow that it
proceeded cntirely from the combuſtion of vegetables.
The mountains gradually diminiſh in height towards the ſouth-eaſt
end
SS VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
end of the iſland; ſo that, in favourable weather, veſſels might eaſily put
in at that part of the coaſt. We obſerved ſeveral rivulets, which, after
winding with a ſerpentine courſe amongſt the hills diſcharged themſelves
into the ſea.
We were ſtill very near to the iſland when the night came on. The
land then appeared as if covered with a ſheet of fire, whilſt the illuminated
ſmoke gave that vivid appearance to the ſky which generally portends a
hurricane.
The iſle of St. Paul is about 10,000 toiſes in circumference, and ſitu-
ated in about 37° 56' S. lat. and 75° 2' E. lon.
The variation of the magnetic needle was here 1740 W.
During the continuance of the gales from N. W. and S. W. the mer-
cury of the barometer gradually fell eight lines. On the firſt of April, it
was ſtationary at 27 inches 7 lines, when the gale was ſo ſtrong, that we
went at the rate of ten knots with the fore and main top-ſails ſet. We
never ran ſo faſt as on this day, in the whole courſe of our voyage. We
were now already in 4049 S. lat. Lon. 8.5° E.
Hitherto we had flattered ourſelves that no fraud had been praćtiſed
upon us, at leaſt with reſpect to the quality of our ſea-biſcuit. But we
diſcovered, when it was too late, that a part of it had already made a
voyage before ; for, at the end of five months after our departure from
Breſt, it ſwarmed with prodigious numbers of thoſe maggots, that are
afterwards changed into the ſpecies of fly known by the name of dermeſes
paniceus. Theſe inſeóts ſoon became very troubleſome to us: in the
night-time they burnt themſelves at our lamps in ſuch numbers, as very
frequently to extinguiſh them. From the biſcuits the maggots ſoon ſpread
themſelves throughout all the reſt of our proviſions, and it laſted a conſi-
derable time before we could conquer the diſguſt which it at firſt gave
us, when we ſaw them ſwarming in all our food.
2d. The impetuoſity and frequency of the ſqualls obliged us to make a
great many tacks. They once forgot to ſhiver the main top-ſail before they
brailed it up, and it was inſtantly torn in pieces.
On the 4th of April, being in 41° S. lat. 92° E. lon, we ſaw a great
number
APRIL.] & OF LA PEROUSE. 8g
number of birds; amongſt others, gulls and the larus marinus, which ſel-
dom fly far from the land. Probably we were near to ſome rock or iſland.
Though we had made a very good run, we ſtill ſaw the ſame kinds of
birds on the following day. The land where they have their abode may
poſſibly be diſcovered, when theſe ſeas ſhall be more frequented by na-
vigators.
14th. A fall of the mercury in the barometer from 28 inches 3 lines, to
27 inches 7 lines, announced the approach of violent gales, which blew
from W. and S. W. and raiſed the billows ſo high that they frequently
daſhed over our decks. One of them, that had entangled our mizen chains,
broke againſt the ſtern of the veſſel with ſuch force, that the ſailors
thought we had ſtruck upon a rock. The ſhock was tremendous, and
ſome of the ſtore-rooms inſtantly leaked.
The violence of the ſhock had thrown the Commander againſt one of
the corners of a barrel-organ, intended as a preſent to ſome ſavage chief.
The ſurgeon thought at firſt that he had fractured one of his falſe ribs;
and the pain was ſo great, that, whenever he ſneezed, it threw him into
a fainting fit. However, he ſoon recovered his health.
During the night the atmoſphere was filled with a ſuperabundance of
electric matter: a part was drawn off by means of our conductors, upon
the top of which we obſerved a luminous ſpeck, that vaniſhed and re-
appeared ſeveral times in ſucceſſion. The ſea appeared more phoſphoric
than uſual.
In the courſe of the night a large wave daſhed over the deck of ou.
veſſel, having made its way through the opening between the fore-catiº
and quarter-deck, where we kept our boats. When I ſprang out of my bed.
I found the cabin filled with water, and imagined we were going to the
bottom. It kept us a long time cnployed before we could rid the ſhip of
the water it had taken in. Three or four ſuch waves would infallibly have
l
*
ſunk us. We ſhould not have ran ſuch a hazard, if we had been provide.
with means to lay gratings over the large opening by which the wave
entercol.
M ( );
**
90 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
On the 17th of April, when we were in lat. 43° S. long, 129° E. the
variation of the magnetic needle was o.
. The Eſperance was appriſed, that in caſe of ſeparation, our rendez-
vous at Van Diemen's Cape was to be the Bay of Adventure, inſtead of
the Baic des Huitres.
We lay to under our fore-ſail during the night of the 20th, as our
day's work had brought us ſo near the coaſt, that we could not carry full
fail. At nine in the evening, we ſounded, without ſtriking ground,
with a line of ſeventy-five fathoms. We brought up with the lead a
great quantity of phoſphoric ſubſtances, from about three to ſeven inches
in circumference. As the compreſſibility of water has been demonſtrated,
we know the principal cauſe of theſe ſubſtances being ſuſpended at dif-
ferent depths below the ſurface of the water, in proportion to their ſpe-
cific gravity.
21ſt. As ſoon as it was day we directed our courſe, with full ſails, E.
N. E.
About half an hour after nine o'clock, we obſerved a rock with a very
{harp point, known by the name of the Mew-Stone. Some other rocks
and mountains of moderate height appeared to the eaſtward. The coaſt
was indented with ſeveral ſmall bights in the land ; ſome pretty high
mountains were ſeen at a ſmall diſtance from the ſhore, and we could
diſtinguiſh the large trees which covered their ſummits. 2.
We ſoon bore in with a bay open to the ſouth-eaſt. An iſland was
viſible to the eaſtward, and nearer us we perceived breakers to N. E.
It was the Commander's intention to caſt anchor in Adventure-bay.
As his wound did not yet permit him to leave his cabin, he was obliged
... to give his orders reſpecting our route, according to obſervations which
were reported to him as they were taken. An erroneous obſervation,
taken by Citizen Willaumez, * having been reported to him, he gave or-
* When we made the land of the Cape of Van Diemen, Willaumez was directed to
take the neceſſary obſervations. On being aſked the bearing of Eddy-Stone, he ſaid it
bore S. 19° W. though it ačtually bore S. 19° F. Accordingly the Commander gave
orders to make the bay on our left, as he could not doubt that it was Adventure-bay. .
ders
APRIL.] OF LA PEROUSE . Q t
ders to manoeuvre the ſhips, ſo as to enter the bay ſituated on our left,
In vain we looked for the Pinguin's Iſland, thinking ourſelves in Adven-
ture-bay, though it really was Tempeſt-bay, named thus by Taſman.
who, having entered it in the month of November 1642, was in the
moſt imminent danger of being driven aſhore by a S. E. wind, when he
endeavoured to get into the main ſea.
As we had got very far into the bight of the bay, our foundings gave
us a depth of from fifteen to twenty-five fathoms, over a bottom of ſhells.
The Commander was on the point of giving orders to leave the bay, that
we might paſs the night in the open ſea: however, he reſolved to diſ-
patch two boats, the one to the northward and the other to the ſouth-
eaſt, in order to look out for ſome place of ſhelter for our ſhips.
The men in the boat ſent to the north ſide of the bay, found a place
of anchorage, with a very good bottom, where we might eaſily procure
wood and water. They had ſeen ſome remains of huts, and near them
large heaps of ſhells, that appeared to have been broiled by the natives.
It was, however, too late for us to put into this anchorage before
night. As the weather was fair, it was reſolved to caſt anchor in Tem-
peſt-bay, in a bottom of grey ſand, at the depth of ten fathoms. We
had been fixty-four days on our paſſage from the Cape to this place.
Moſt of the navigators who have made it before us, have performcd it in
fifty or at moſt fifty-five days. It is to be obſerved, that they have ge-
nerally ſteered ſouthward as ſoon as poſſible. in order to get into the
track of the weſterly winds. This route is ſomewhat longer than that
which we took, but at ſea it is not always by taking the ſhorteſt road
that one arrives the ſooneſt at one's place of deſtination. Navigators
ought to be well acquainted with the ordinary courſes of the winds, that
they may be able to get into thoſe which are the moſt favourable. The
night continued very fine, though the air was charged with a great deal
of moiſture. We were ſheltered from the N. W. and W. N. W. winds,
though we now and then experienced a few ſlight blaſts.
We caught a great quantity of fiſhes with our lines. They were of a
great variety of different kinds: the moſt numerous were thoſe of the ſpe-
cies gadus.
TM 2 The
92 VOYAGE IN SEARCH | 1792.
..The variation of the magnetic needle, obſerved when we paſſed under
the meridian of Iſle de France, at the diſtance of more than 700,000
toiſes ſouth, had been greater by twelve degrees than we found it near
the coaſt of that iſland—a great difference when conſidered as ariſing
merely from change of latitude.
The greateſt W. variation obſerved, was on the 3d of March. It was
then 30°3, our lat, being 34° 30' S. and long. 37° 45' E. From that
time it continued to decreaſe, till it became o, in lat. 43° S. long. 129°
E.; after which it paſſed to E. and continued to increaſe in proportion as
we advanced eaſtward.
The W. variation of the magnetic needle, as obſerved till the period
when it was the greateſt, had been more influenced by change of longi-
tude than of latitude; though from that time, till we were under the
meridian of Iſle de France, it appeared to depend much more upon
change of latitude; for, from the point at which it had been the greateſt,
till we paſſed under the meridian of Iſle de France, having changed our
longitude by 17 degrees, and our latitude by 24, the variation had been
only 49, though, by a change of latitude to 17 degrees further ſouth, the
variation had been found 129 more than at Iſle de France.
The phoſporeſcence of the ſea, during this paſſage, had diminiſhed in
an inverſe proportion to our diſtance from the land; ſo that a conſiderable
time before we ſaw the iſland of St. Paul, one could hardly perceive any
appearance of phoſphoreſcence in the waves.
During our paſſage from the Cape, the thermometer had never indi-
gated lower than 8° below 0, nor higher than 20° above O. The mer-
cury in the barometer, during the ſame period, had never ſtood higher
than 28 inchcs 7 lines, nor lower than 27 inchcs 7 lines.
While we were in the track of the variable winds, the currents had
ſet from 10 to 20' N.; but whilſt we were ſailing off the S. W. coaſt
of New Holland, they had ſet caſtward. Theſe differences in their di-
rection depend upon the ſituation of the lands.
Our tables for reëtifying the irregularities of our time-keepers ariſing
from difference of temperature, extended no farther than 15° of Reau-
mer's ſcale, and the balance-bow for our pcndulum-clock was only cal-
culated
APRIL.] OF LA PEROUSE. 93
culated to anſwer between 106° and 115°. The latter was conſtantly
above 115°, and the temperature of the atmoſphere was very often
lower than 15° of the thermometer. It was neceſſary to keep up a de-
gree of temperature, at leaſt equal to this, in the place where our time-
keepers were depoſited. A common lamp might have anſwered this pur-
poſe; but we preferred one of D'Argand's, in order to avoid the ſmoke.
22d. The boats that had been diſpatched the preceding day for that
purpoſe were again ſent to ſound at the entrance of the ſtation where we
intended to caſt anchor, as they had not had time ſufficient to do it the
evening before. About half an hour after nine we received the agreeable
intelligence, that it was a very well ſheltered harbour, with ſafe anchor-
age in a bottom of muddy ſand, not leſs than 3% fathoms in depth at the
entrance facing the middle of the bay. Their ſoundings had given them
from 24 to 4 fathoms throughout a confiderable part of the harbour, which
extends land-inwards about 2500 toiſes. It was a better ſtation in every
reſpect than Adventure-bay, and we could here ſupply ourſelves with
wood and water as eaſily as we could wiſh.
Though the breeze was againſt us, it was at firſt ſo inconſiderable that
we could be towed towards the harbour; but we had ſcarcely proceeded
500 toiſes, when it blew freſher and obliged us to caſt an anchor. The
Eſperance, however, continued to be towed, and nearly reached the en-
trance of the harbour before it grew dark.
A boat which we ſent out to fiſh, took ſo many at a ſingle draught of
the net, that the diſtribution was immediately made, and every one con-
tented with his portion.
We were much ſurpriſed to find amongſt the fiſh caught with the line
in the courſe of the night, ſome ſharks about a fathom in length. They
were of the ſpecies ſqualus cinercus. This kind of ſhark never riſes from
the bottom of the water. We never ſaw it approach the ſurface during
the whole time of our ſtay at the Cape of Van Diennen. It docs not ap-
pcar to be dangerous to man; for our ſailors, though they bathed here
very frequently, never met with any accident. It finds ſufficient food on
theſe coaſts to ſatisfy its voracity without attacking men ; otherwiſe the
natives
Q4 *-
VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1702.
->
natives of the country, who frequently dive to a great depth into the ſea
in queſt of ſhell-fiſh, would be in perpetual danger of being devoured by
theſe animals. t
Some mountains, which appeared to be above 500 toiſes in perpendi.
cular height, were viſible towards the north at a diſtance of about 15,000
toiſes. Their ſummits were covered with tall trees, whoſe verdure gave
additional beauty to the magnificent proſpect which they exhibited.
An officer belonging to our veſſel, who had been ſent to take the
foundings at the farther end of the harbour, went on ſhore, where he
found ſeveral huts, and near them the remains of broiled ſhell-fiſh, which
had evidently ſerved for food to the natives.
25th. As we had hardly any wind, we weighed anchor a few hours be-
fore day-light, in order to be towed into the harbour. As the calm con-
tinued, this proved the moſt expeditious method, and we were ſoon
brought into our anchoring place. We ranged at a ſmall diſtance from a
rock ſituated about the middle of the entrance, leaving it to our left. Our
ſoundings indicated a depth of 2% to 33 fathoms; in other parts of the
ſame ſtrait it was from 45 to 11+. *
About eight o'clock, we caſt anchor in a depth of three fathoms, 350
toiſes from the entrance of the harbour, to which we gave the name of
Port Dentrecaſteaux. The neareſt ſhore was at the diſtance of about
250 toiſes to the eaſtward.
t is difficult to expreſs the ſenſations we felt, at finding ourſelves at
length ſheltered in this ſolitary harbour at the extremity of the globe,
after having been ſo long driven to and fro in the ocean by the violence
df the ſtorms.
The boats afterwards towed in the Eſperance, which caſt anchor about
one o'clock in the afternoon, at a diſtance of 150 toiſes ſouthward of the
Recherche. At firſt we had attempted to approach nearer to the ſhore
without taking the ſoundings accuratcly ; but we ſoon found ourſelves
ſurrounded by the ooze, and were obliged to heave in at the capſtern in
order to extricate ourſelves.
C H A P.
APRIL.] OF LA PEROUSE.
Q
5
C H A P. V.
Abode at Port Denfrecaſcaux—Signs of the Couſi's being frcgi/ented by the
Savages—Different Excurſions into the interior Part of the Country—
Trees of an enormous Height—Excellence of the Soil—Back Swis—
Large Trunks of Trees, hollowed by Fire, ſerve the Natives as Places of
Retreat—Kangourou–Obſervations relating to Comparative Aſiatomy—
Places of Shelter againſ; the Wind conſtructed by the Natives—Com/iruc-
tion of their Huts—A ſudden Guſ? of Wind breaks our Chain—I 2 run
aground in the Mud—Meet with a young Savage—Intelligence of a Paſ:
ſage by which one may ſail from Tempeſt into Adventure Bay—Huts of
the Natives—Phoca Monachus—The Heart of this amphibious Animal
has mio Foramen Ovale—Obſervations relating to comparative Anatomy—
Traces of Beaſis of Prey at the Cape of Han Diemen—Huts, which appear
to have been lately inhabited—ſºviparous Flies, the Larvae of which pro-
duce ſpeedy Putrefaction in Flſh-meat—Citizen Riche finds ſome burnt
human Bones—Our Maſter Sail-maker loſes himſelf in the Hoods—Both
Pºſſels run aground in the Mud—Utenſils of the Savages—Place of the
Obſervatory—Variation of the Magnetic Needle—Time of High-water in
the Harbour-—Departure from Port Dentrecaſſeaux–Paſſage through the
Straits of Dentrecaſeaux—Fires–Savages ſeen on the Shore—One of them
kindles the Fire in different Places—He coſ Anchor in a large Bay at
the Entrance of the Straits of Dentrecaſeaux—Excurſion into the Country
—Savages found dreſſing their Food at the Fire—The Straits which ºve
had diſſovered receive the Name of the Strails of Deutrecaſeaux–44-
choring Places in this Channel—Excurſions into the Countries ſituated
along its Coaſis—Rencounters with the Savages—-Departure from the
Straits of Dentrecôffeaux.
ORT Dentrecaſteaux is ſituated at the fartheſt end of Tempeſt Bay,
and forms an almoſt oval baſin, extending about 25,00 toiſes in
length towards N. N. E. Its greateſt breadth is about füo The
Q4 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
tall foreſts that ſurrounded us on all ſides, and the mountains at no great $
diſtance from the coaſt, which ſheltered more than one half of the cir-
cumference of the harbour, added to the ſecurity of our anchorage. Though
the gales were never ſo high, our pinnaces could ſail about it with ſecurity.
A muddy bottom, about 3% fathoms in depth, let them run no hazard if
they were driven aground. More than 100 veſſels of the line might ride
here with ſafety, and be ſupplied with as much wood and water as they
ſtood in need of.
Towards the N. N. E. extremity of the harbour a ſmall river diſcharges
itſelf into the ſea. Some of our boats attempted to row up the ſtream,
but were prevented by the large trees that lay acroſs it. A few wild dogs
were obſerved in the neighbouring country; and ſome ſheltering places,
flightly conſtructed of the barks of trees, ſhewed that the ſhores were fre-
quented by the natives. A piece of alga marina, of the ſpecies known by
the name officus palmatus, was picked up. It was cut into the ſhape of
a purſe, and appeared to have been uſed as a drinking veſſel, being found
filled with water. -
The weſt ſide of the harbour is the moſt favourable for taking in a ſup-
ply of water. We took in ours on the W. S. W. and our wood on the
oppoſite ſhore.
A fire that was ſeen at the diſtance of about 5000 toiſes to the South,
informed us that we were near the habitations of the ſavages, although we
had as yet ſeen none of them.
In the afternoon I went on ſhore, accompanied by the gardener and
two others of our ſhip's company, in order to make an excurſion into the
eountry towards N. E. We were filled with admiration at the fight of
theſe ancicnt foreſts, in which the ſound of the axe had never been heard.
The eye was aſtoniſhed in contemplating the prodigious ſize of theſe
trees, amongſt which there were ſome myrtles more than 25 fathoms in
height, whoſe tufted ſummits were crowned with an ever verdant for
liage: others, looſened by age from their roots, were ſupported by the
neighbouring trees, whilſt, as they gradually decayed, they were incorpo-
rated piece after piece with the parent-earth. The moſt luxuriant vigour
of
APR ſl.] OF LA PEROUSE, (7
of vegetation is here contraſted with its final diſſolution, and preſents to
the mind a ſtriking pićture of the operations of nature, who, left to herſelf,
never deſtroys but that ſhe may again create.
The trees in this foreſt did not grow ſo cloſe together as to prevent us
from penetrating into it. We walked for a long time over ground, where
the water, impeded in its courſe, has formed itſelf into marſhes, the
borders of which we examined. Deeper within the foreſt, we found ſmall
rivulets that contained very good water. Almoſt every where the ſoil
conſiſted of a very fine mould, produced by the decay of vegetables, ovel
a bed of reddiſh, and ſometimes greyiſh ſand. In ſome places it conſiſted
of an argillaceous kind of earth, which imbibing the water with great
facility, forms itſelf into bogs; in others this earth has been waſhed away
by the water filtrating through the ground, ſo as to form pools, and ſome-
times deep holes, the ſurface of which being covered with plants, one
does not eaſily apprehend any danger in approaching them, but by the
inadvertency of a ſingle moment may fall into them unawares. An acci-
dent of this kind happened to the ſurgeon of the Eſperance, who, whilſt
he was a-hunting, ſet his foot upon what he took to be firm ground, and
fell into a very deep bog. He immediately diſappeared; but fortunately
he was able to ſwim.
We found ſome rudiments of huts in theſe woods, conſiſting of a frame-
work made of the branches of young trees, and deſigned to be afterwards
filled up with pieces of the bark, which the natives always uſe to coyer
the outſide of their cabins.
I gathered ſeveral ſpecies of the eucalyptus, during this excurſion;
amongſt others, that which White has denominated eucalyptus rºſinifera.
This is a very tall tree, the ſpungy bark of which is often three inches in
thickneſs, and ſeparates very eaſily from the trunk. It produces a gum-
reſin, of a reddiſh colour and aſtringent taſte, which is uſed for medičinal
purpoſes. We likewiſe collected ſeveral ſpecies of philadelphus, the bankſia
integrifolia, a new ſpecies of epacris, &c.
On the ſea-ſhore we met the ſervant of Citizen Riche, greatly de-
lighted with having ſhot a few birds, which he was carrying to his maſter.
N This
ps VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
This man, who had but juſt recovered from a fit of illneſs, was ſtill
upon the liſt of the ſurgeon of the Eſperance, who thought he had a right
to what his patient had ſhot ; but neither the threat of being purged, nor
even that of being put upon ſpare diet could make him give up a ſingle
bird. The ſurgeon too kept his word; for he made him ſwallow a purga-
tive and put him upon a ſpare regimen. The ſervant, having learnt by
melancholy experience the conſequences of diſobeying the Doctor, always
ran away as faſt as he was able, whenever he eſpied him in any of his
ſhooting excurſions afterwards.
After having directed our route for ſome time to the north-eaſtward, we
arrived before night at the coaſt direétly oppoſite to our veſſels. We ex-
pećted to be immediately taken on board, as we had been promiſed that
a boat ſhould be ſent to fetch us, as ſoon as we wanted one. This might
have been done in five minutes; but we were obliged to wait two hours
on the ſhore. It would have been a very proper regulation, if a boat had
becn kept expreſsly for the uſe of thoſe gentlemen of the expedition who
were appointed to make reſearches into natural hiſtory.
A bird that was ſhot upon one of the lakes, ſurpriſed us very much by
the ſingularity of its plumage. It was a new ſpecies of the ſwan, of the
ſame beautiful form, but rather larger than ours. Its colour was a ſhining
black, as ſtriking in its appearance as the clear white of ours. In each of
its wings it had ſix large white feathers; a character, which I have uni-
formly remarked in ſeveral others that were afterwards killed. The upper
mandibule was of a red colour, with a tranſverſe white ſtreak near the ex-
tremity. The male had at the baſe of it an excreſcence conſiſting of two
protuberances, that were ſcarcely obſervable in the female. The lower
mandibule is red at the edges and white in the middle. The feet are of a
dark grey. (See Plate IX.)
24th. It was ten o'clock of the next morning, before I could finiſh my
deſcription and preparation of the ſpecimens I had collected the preceding
day. I then went to examine the country ſituated to the caſtward of our
anchoring ſtation. It frequently happened that after having penetrated into
the woods to the diſtance of 500 toiſes, at moſt, from the ſhore, I was
obliged
APRIL. OF LA PEROUSE. ng
obliged to return towards the coaſt on account of the difficulties that ob-
ſtructed my paſſage, which was not only impeded by the underwood, but
often rendered impracticable by the ſtems of large trees thrown down by
the wind. The direction in which they lay upon the ground, which was
generally from ſouth-weſt to north-eaſt, proves that they were torn from
their roots by violent ſouth-weſt winds. As theſe trees ſhoot out their roots
in an almoſt horizontal direction, they are eaſily torn from the ground by the
force of the wind, and frequently carry with them a great quantity of earth,
which at a diſtance appears like a wall raiſed by the hands of men.
The fineſt trees in this country are the different ſpecies of eucalyptus,
Their ordinary thickneſs is about eighteen feet: I have meaſured ſome that
were twenty-five in circumference. The ſpongy bark of the eucalyptus
rg/inifera, becoming ſlippery in conſequence of the moiſture that con-
ſtantly prevails in the heart of theſe thick foreſts, renders it ſtill more dif-
ficult to penetrate into them. This bark very readily peels off into pieces
that have a great degree of flexibility, and are uſed by the natives for co-
vering their huts. They often find long ſtripes of it about a foot in
breadth, which ſpontaneouſly ſhell themſelves off from the lower part of
the trunk. They might eaſily peel it off in pieces of twenty-five or thirty
feet in length.
Moſt of the large trees near the edges of the ſea have been hollowed
near their roots by means of fire. The cavities are generally directed
towards the north-eaſt, ſo as to ſerve as places of ſhelter againſt the ſouth-
weſt winds, which appear to be the moſt predominant and violent in
theſe parts. It cannot be doubted that theſe cavities are the work of
men; for had they been produced by any accidental cauſe, ſuch as the
underwood taking fire, the flames muſt have encompaſſed the whole cir-
cumference of the tree. They ſeem to be places of ſhelter for the natives
whilſt they eat their meals. We found in ſome of them the remains of
the ſhell-fiſh on which they feed, and frequently the cinders of the fires at
which they had dreſſed their vićtuals. The ſavages, however, are not very
ſafe in theſe hollow trees; for the trunk being weakened by the excava-
tion, may eaſily be thrown down by a violent guſt of wind ; neither are
their ſeats very commodious, as the ground is very uneven, and we ob-
N 2 ... • . . *- :
ferved
3 ÖO. VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
ferved no contrivances to render it more level. Anderſon fpeaks of
hearths of clay, made by the natives in theſe hollow trees. Whenever I
have found any clay in them, it did not appear to me to have been placed
there by the ſavages; but one frequently meets with it piled up between
the roots in conſequence of natural cauſes. At any rate, the natives of
this country, as we ſhall ſee hereafter, do not make their fires upon
hearths; but kindle them on the bare ground, and prepare their vićtuals
over the coals.
Some of the largeſt trees were hollowed by the fire throughout the
whole length of their trunks, ſo as to form a ſort of chimnies: neverthe-
leſs they continued to vegetate. -
Many of the large trunks that we felled during our ſtay at this place,
were found, notwithſtanding their apparent ſoundneſs externally, to be
rotten at the heart.
After having followed the ſhore that extends with numerous windings,
towards the ſouth-eaſt, we attempted to make our way acroſs ſome
marſhes, in order to get into grounds that had acquired a more ſolid con-
ſiſtence from the roots of the plants; but a ſpecies of the ſclerya, which
grows to the height of ſix or eight feet, cut our hands and faces, with
Its leaves in ſuch a manner that we were obliged to deſiſt from our at-
tempt.
During this excurſion I killed ſeveral birds of the genus motacilla, and
ſome parrots, amongſt which was the parrot of New Caledonia, deſcribed
by Latham. * =
We now directed our route towards the entrance of the harbour, where
tents had been pitched for the purpoſe of taking obſervations, as we were
ſure of meeting there with a boat to carry us on board.
The aſtronomers expected the firſt of Jupiter's ſatellites to appear at
about a quarter of an hour after eight in the evening; but with all their
aćtivity they could not get their inſtruments ready in duc time; ſo that
the opportunity was loſt. Bonvouloir, one of our officers, who had
made the preliminary calculations a long time ſince, was ſo affected by
this diſappointment, that he wept like a child.
One of our crew ſhot a young kangarou upon the ſhore. The animal,
. . . after
April.] OF LA PEROUSE. I O |
after running about a hundred yards along the ſand, threw himſelf into
the ſea and expired. It was remarkable that he uſed all his four feet in
running, not ſupporting himſelf ſolely upon the hinder feet, as he is
uſually repreſented to do ; though theſe as well as the fore, are without
hair on the inner ſide. As he goes in queſt of his food more in the night-
time than during the day, nature has provided him with the membrane
termed by zoologiſts membrana ničfitans, ſituated at the interior angle of
the eye, which he can extend at pleaſure over the whole ball. His ſto-
mach was full of vegetables and divided by three very diſtinét partitions,
which ſeem to approach him to the claſs of the ruminant quadrupeds,
His teſticles were on the outſide of the abdomen. Theſe animals pro-
bably find a part of their food on the ſea-coaſt, as we frequently obſerved
the prints of their feet in the ſand.
25th. Having left ſome of my plants in the hands of the painter, that
he might take a drawing of them, I followed the windings of the coaſt
in a ſouth-eaſt direction. The large ſlippery pebbles which covered the
ſtrand were a great impediment to us in walking.
We found on the ſkirts of the foreſt a fence conſtructed by the natives
againſt the winds from the bay. It conſiſted of ſtripes of the bark of the
eucalyptus reſinifera, interwoven between ſtakes fixed perpendicularly into
the ground, forming an arch, of about a third of the circumference of a
circle, nine feet in length and three in height, with its convex ſide
turned toward the bay. A ſemicircular elevation covered with cinders, and
heaped round with ſhells, pointed out the place where the natives dreſſed
their vićtuals. Such a fence muſt be of great ſervice to them to prevent
their fires being extinguiſhed, when the wind blows with violence from
the ſea.
Having croſſed a promontory of the coaſt, we walked with difficulty
over the looſe ſands which cover a large tract of land, that ſometimes lies
under water.
We found another of the fences above deſcribed on the ſkirt of the
foreſt. It was of the ſame conſtruction and height as the former, but
twice as long. Within it were broken pieces of drinking veſſels made of
the fucus by matus.
We
1 O2 VOYAGE IN SEARCII | 1792.
We arrived at the borders of a lake, which is connected with the ſea
at flood-tide. Its greateſt length was 750 toiſes, and its breadth 250.
On our return by a more direét road through the woods, we ſaw ſome
unfiniſhed huts of the natives. They conſiſted of branches fixed by both
ends into the ground, and ſupported the one upon the other, ſo as to
form a frame-work of an hemiſpherical form, about four feet and an half
in height. The branchcs were faſtened together with the leaves of a
ſpecies of graſs ; and the buildings ſeemed to require nothing more in
order to be completed, than to receive their coverings of bark, which
renders them impenetrable to the rain.
It ſeems that human beings are here either very few in number or in
a very ſavage ſtate. Though a great number of the men from both veſ.
ſels had penetrated very far into the country, they had not met with a
ſingle inhabitant.
The Cape of Van Diemen is ſubjećt, in conſequence of its high latitude,
to very violent winds, which blow from the mountains in blaſts. Fear-
ing that our cables might rot upon the muddy bottom of this harbour,
we had taken them on board and held on our chain. A ſudden and vio-
lent gale from N. W. drove us from our anchorage, to the eaſt ſide of
the harbour, where we ran aground in the mud. After having drawn
in the piece of cable to which the chain was faſtened, we found that one
of the links had been broken ; though upon examining it we could not
perceive any flaw in the iron. It appeared that the chain had been made
of brittle metal. We thought it fortunate that it had been put to the
proof in a harbour, where we ran no other danger than that of being
ſtuck in the mud; otherwiſe this chain, upon which our ſafety depended,
would have become the cauſe of our ruin. -
20th. I remained the whole day on board, employed with preparing
and deſcribing the numerous curioſities of natural hiſtory, which I had
collected on the preceding days.
On the following day, ſoon after dawn, we ſet out with a deſign of
penctrating as far as we were able into the country. We were ſet on
ſhore towards S. E. After having followed the windings of the ſhore for
ſome time, we came to a road frcquented by the natives, which cnabled
lıS
APRIL.] OF LA PEROUSE. | O3
us to enter the foreſt in a ſouth direction. We afterwards arrived at a
fine ſandy beach, extending about 1000 toiſes in the ſame direétion.
A beautiful ſpecies of erigeron, the woody ſtem of which is covered
with very ſmall bulbous leaves, grew in this dry ground. Though there
was very little wind, the waves broke with violcnce over a great extent of
the beach. We regularly obſerved that, after three ſucceſſive waves, one
much larger than the reſt followed and broke higher upon the beach, ſo
as to oblige us to keep further off from the ſhore.
On a ſmall riſing ground of the coaſt, I found the ſpecies of the bankſ,
denominated by Gaertner bankſia gibboſa. Whilſt we were journeying
through the foreſt, at a ſmall diſtance from the ſhore, one of our company
obſerved a young ſavage, who was running away affrighted by a ſhot
which had been fired at a bird. As ſoon as we were informed of it, we
all ran in purſuit of him, being very deſirous of having an interview with
ſome of the natives. But all our ſearch was in vain ; for the young ſa-
vage had diſappeared by ruſhing into the thickeſt of the foreſt at the riſk
of tearing his ſkin; for he was ſtark naked. We found one of the fences
againſt the ſea-winds at the place where he had been firſt ſeen.
The hope of meeting with ſome of the ſavages determined us to pene-
trate farther into the foreſt, with a reſolution to paſs the night theic.
We walked for the ſpace of an hour towards the ſouth-eaſt, over a very
rugged path, before we arrived at a large plain that extended as far as
the ſea-ſhore. A beautiful ſpecies of the mimoſa grew here, with long
oval leaves, and generally about twenty-five or thirty feet in height.
Night compelled us to look out for a place of ſhelter. We could not
have recourſe to the cavities burnt in large trees by the natives, as we
were too far diſtant from them : we therefore conſtructed a hut of
branches, which we had lopped from the trees with a pole-axe that one
of our company carried with him for his defence. The hardneſs of the
ground was meliorated with a bed of fern, of a ſpecies very nearly reſem-
bling the polypodium dichotomum.
Being cloſe to the ſhore, we had a very extenſive proſpect, but obſerved
no ſigns of the natives being near us. We kindled a fire as the weather
was very ſharp.
W. C.
'l O.1 VOYAGE IN SEARCH 1792.]
We were not altogether eaſy with reſpect to our means of ſubſiſtence;
for when we left the ſhip we had furniſhed ourſelves with but one day's
proviſions; but as ſailors are uſed always to take ſome ſea-biſcuit with
them when they go on a journey, thoſe who accompanied us were ſtill
provided with ſome of it. With this ſtock of eatables, our moſt neceſ.
ſary requiſite was water, which we were obliged to ſend for to a diſ-
tance of 1000 toiſes. Such a ſupper as this certainly required a good
appetite.
As we were ſeven in number, we had not much to fear from the na-
tives. We however ſettled it that every one ſhould ſtand upon watch in
his turn, that we might be informed of their motions in caſe any of them
ſhould come near us. -
The ſeverity of the cold obliged us to quit our hut and lie down to
ſleep round the fire. !,
28th. As ſoon as it was day we went out with our guns, to endeavour
to ſhoot ſomething for our breakfaſt. We ſoon killed a couple of rooks,
which were immediately broiled and eaten, as if they had been the moſt
delicate food.
We had been obliged to reduce ourſelves to a very moderate allowance
on the preceding evening, that we might have means of ſubſiſtence for
the following day; but we found, when it was too late, that the perſon
to whom we had intruſted the care of our proviſions, was not to be de-
pended upon, for of the ſix biſcuits that had been committed to his
charge, only four were left. Had he carried his breach of truſt a little
farther, we ſhould have been obliged to return to the ſhips immediately,
with the mortification of being compelled to relinquiſh our intended re-
fearches.
We ſoon arrived at the borders of a large lake, connected with the ſea
by a channel about 120 feet in breadth. We attempted to ford it, but
it was too deep about the middle.
Amongſt a great variety of other plants that grew in the neighbouring
woods, I obſerved ſeveral ſpecies of a new genus of the pedicularia, very
nearly reſembling the polygala. Amongſt the ſhrubs which ornamented
the
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the grounds near the ſhore, was a beautiful ſpecies of ſenſitive plant with
ſimple leaves, the ſtalk of which was bent into the form of the letter S.
We ſaw a large flock of black ſwans ſailing upon the lake; but they
were not within reach of our guns. Some ſmall iſlands were viſible to-
wards S. E. near the oppoſite ſhore of the lake. We killed a number of
ſnipes of different kinds while we direéted our march towards S. W. in
order to arrive at the fartheſt extremity of the lake. The bottom of the
lake is here ſo ever, that throughout a ſurface of more than fifty toiſes in
length, the water is hardly more than a foot and an half deep. It is
covered with a prodigious quantity of ſhells, many of which are decayed
in conſequence of the length of time they have lain there,
The criſia marina is found upon theſe ſhores. I diſcovered at a little
diſtance from them a new ſpecies of parſley, which I named apium proſira-
tum, on account of the poſition of its ſtem which always creeps along the
ground. Its analogy with the other ſpecies of the ſame genus, led me to
think it might be good to eat, and it anſwered my expectations. We
carried a large quantity of it on board with us, which was acceptable to
mariners who felt the neceſſity of obviating, by vegetable diet, the bad
effects of the ſalt proviſions on which we had lived during the whole of
our paſſage from the Cape of Good Hope to that of Van Diemen.
Cretin, one of the officers of our ſhip, together with the engineer, had
been ſent with the long-boat by our Commander, in order to reconnoitre
Tempeſt-bay. They brought intelligence at their return, after having
advanced fifteen or twenty thouſand toiſes into a channel which we had
left on our right when we entered the bay, that every appearance con-
curred to make it probable that this was a ſtrait. Wherever they had
ſounded they found very good anchorage ground.
29th. I was very little on ſhore during the two following days.
30th. The whole forenoon I employed in deſcribing and preparing the
copious colle&tions which I had made on my laſt excurſion. In thoſe
parts of the country which I examined in the afternoon, I found ſeveral
plants of the tribe of orchis, ſome of which I gave to be copicſ by the
painter.
O The
106 voy AGE IN SEARCH [1792.
The fiſhing nets were regularly ſent out every evening, and abundance
of fiſh was taken. The meals we now made on board contraſted very
ſtrikingly with thoſe we had been obliged to put up with during our paſ-
ſage.
I muſt here remark, that thoſe of our company who were engaged in
the purſuit of natural hiſtory, were not permitted to take with them, on
their excurſions, the ſmalleſt quantity of that allowance of freſh provi-
ſions which we claimed as our right: ſhip's biſcuit, cheeſe, brandy, and
ſometimes a little ſalted bacon, was all that was provided for us. The
reaſons we alleged were ſufficient to evince the juſtice of our demand;
nevertheleſs, we had no other proviſions allowed us on theſe occaſions,
during the whole courſe of our expedition. I ſhould have paſſed over
this circumſtance in ſilence, had I not thought that it might afford a uſe-
ful hint to perſons employed in the ſame purſuit, who may hereafter be
engaged in ſuch expeditions.
MAY 1 ſt. I reſolved to examine the other coaſt of the harbour to the
eaſtward. The bottom was here ſo ſhallow, that we could not come
cloſe to the land with our boat, ſo that we were obliged to wade part of
the way in the water.
I followed the coaſt in a northerly dire&tion, ſometimes penetrating a
ſhort way into the foreſts. As it was low-tide, I walked with great faci-
lity along the ſhore, where I obſerved ſeveral ſmall holes, in the form of
a tunnel, made in the ſand, each of which contained a ſmall crab at the
bottom. Upon drawing out the animal, it ſoon crawled back into its
hiding place, which, as I judge from its analogy with that of the formica
leo in our country, ſerves it likewiſe as a trap to catch its prey.
I was agreeably ſurpriſed by the ſingular form of a new ſpecies of fun-
gus, which grew amongſt the moſſes with which the ground was covered.
I named it aſtroë, on account of the diſpoſition of its radii.
Its roots are ſmall filaments attached to a fungous tubercle, which ſup-
ports a globular volva, of a whitiſh colour and gelatinous conſiſtence,
marked both within and without with ſeven ſtriae.
From the centre of this volva proceeds a ſipes of a reddiſh colour, and
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MAY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 107
an almoſt cylindrical form, hollow throughout, and open at its ſuperior
extremity, which forms a ſort of cup, of a fine red colour, and divided
into ſeven bifurcate radii, yellow at their extremities. The whole ſurface
of this fungus is ſmooth.
This new genus ought to be placed next in order to the genus phallus
of Linnaeus.
Explanation of the figures in Plate XII.
•s Fig. 1. The fungus.
Fig. 2. A tranſverſe ſection of the volva, ſhewing its interior parts.
Fig. 3. A longitudinal ſection of the ſtipes.
The declivities of the mountains ſituated to the eaſtward, form a plea-
ſant valley, from whence the waters, colle&ted there by the union of a
great number of ſmall ſtreams, are diſcharged into the bay. By waſhing
the ſtems of the large trees which cover the country, through which it
flows, the water acquires a browniſh tinge. The cloſeneſs of the ſhrubs,
and the marſhes which occupy the low grounds of this valley render it
very difficult of acceſs. We were, however, reſolved to attempt it at the
riſk of ſticking faſt in the mud; but were often ſtopped in our progreſs
by a new ſpecies of the ſcleria, to which I gave the name of ſºleria grandis,
as it frequently grows to the height of twelve feet. Its leaves are as
fharp at the edges as a piece of glaſs; its berries are oval and of a reddiſh
colour, and contain a ſort of almond, which the parrots frequently feed
upon, notwithſtanding the hardneſs of the ſhell which ſurrounds it.
The moſt common ſhrub in theſe low grounds was a new ſpecies of
the embothrium, remarkable for the hardneſs of its leaves. Theſe leaves
are of an oval form, three inches in length and one in breadth.
We followed a very difficult path, in order to arrive at the place where
our men were taking in water. Night overtook us before we had finiſhed
more than half our journey, and to add to our misfortunes, a very high
wind from the weſt brought with it ſuch a heavy rain, that we were
obliged, like the ſavages of New Holland, to ſeek for ſhelter in hollow
trunks of trees. We had reaſon to apprehend that the ſignals we made
O 2 for
} OS VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
for a boat to come to fetch us, would be rendered uſeleſs by the rainy
weather, and were beginning to make prepartions for paſſing a very un-
pleaſant night in the midſt of the foreſt; when we heard the voices of
ſome ſailors who were ſent to fetch us on board.
They had at length ſucceeded in extricating the anchor to which the
chain that was broken on the 25th of April had been faſtened. The drag had
been uſed in vain as the chain was ſunk too deep into the mud. The hold
of the anchor in the ground was ſo ſtrong, that the two long boats laſhed
together were repeatedly filled with water whilſt they were hauling at
the buoy-rope. Beſides, it was ſunk ſo deep, that the divers could not find
its bill: it would have been better if the main capſtan had been uſed.
They then became ſenſible of the neceſſity of doubling the buy-rope and
heaving the anchors from time to time, to prevent them from ſinking too
deep in the muddy bottom.
Two boats had been ſent a ſecond time to reconnoitre the north-eaſt
ſide of Tempeſt-bay, as far as Cape Taſman. They returned at the end of
four days, and it appeared to reſult from their obſervations, that Taſman's
head-land and the coaſt of Adventure-bay made part of an iſland ſepa-
rated from Van Diemen's land by the ſea. After they had gone up the
channel as far as 43° 17' S. lat. they were obliged to return for want of
proviſions.
2d. My occupations on board did not permit me to go far into the
country. *
3d. On the following day we traverſed a glade that extended in a north-
eaſt direétion, and condućted us to the great lake. We had examined the
ſouthern ſide of it in a former excurſion, but we wiſhed ſtill to viſit its
northern coaſt, the various ſituations of which gave us reaſon to expect an
abundance of natural curioſities: nor were our hopes deceived. This coaſt
was in many places formed of high banks, very difficult of acceſs; the
water frequently extending as far as the foot of the hills. Different ſpecies
of mimoſ, with ſimple leaves, grew under the ſhade of the large trees.
It appears that the natives ſometimes fix their habitations upon the
borders of this lake, which affords them abundance of food in the ſhell-
fiſh
MAY.] OF LA PEROUSE. ' 109
fiſh it contains. We found a hut which they had built a few paces from
the ſhore, of a ſemi-oval form, about three feet and three quarters high,
and four feet broad at the baſe. It conſiſted of branches fixed at both ends
into the ground and bent into a ſemi-circular form, ſupporting each other,
ſo as to form a pretty ſolid frame-work, which was covered with the
bark of trees.
Amongſt a number of other curious plants which I colle&ted, I was
ſtruck with the beauty of the flower of a new ſpecies of aletris, remark-
able for its bright ſcarlet colour.
As the ſeaſon was already far advanced, we found very few in-
ſeóts.
Some hours before ſun-ſet we directed our courſe to the ſouth in order
to return to our ſhips; but it was already dark before we arrived at a
ſandy beach that we were acquainted with. We were ſtill at a great
diſtance from the ſhips, and it was not before half an hour after nine
o'clock that we arrived at the tents of obſervation, from whence we were
ſoon conveyed on board.
5th. I remained on board during the greater part of the two following
days, and employed myſelf with ſtuffing the ſkins of a variety of rare
birds, and deſcribing the natural curioſities which I had collected.
The want of room in our veſſel put me under the neceſſity of drying
the plants which I had preſerved in paper at the fire. As my cabin was
already full, I had no other place where I could depoſit ſome of my ſpe-
cimens of plants that had not got perfectly dry than the great cabin.
Dauribeau, who acted as firſt lieutenant, thought that this place ought
not to be lumbered with ſuch uſeleſs things as natural curioſities, and or-
dered my two preſſes, with the plants they contained, to be turned out.
I was obliged to appeal to the Commander, who annulled this act of au-
thority, and ordered that the preſſes ſhould remain where I had placed
them.
At low water we found a variety of curious ſhells on the ſhore. This
harbour afforded us great plenty of very fine oyſters.
The eaſt coaſt of the harbour contained a quantity of pyrites in cryſtals
Ot
Ci Yū *VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
of various forms. We likewiſe obſerved large maſſes of filex in very cloſe
ftrata, which bore a great reſemblance to petrified wood.
Qne of our carpenters killed an amphibious animal of the ſpecies known
by the name of phoca monachus, about ſix feet in length.
Phyſiologiſts have explained in a very ingenious manner how amphi-
bious animals are enabled to remain ſo long under the water by means of
the foramen ovale ; but, upon examining the heart of this animal with the
utmoſt attention, I did not find that it had any foramen ovale. Probably
the ſame may be the caſe with many other amphibious animals. By pur-
‘ſuing theſe reſearches we may one day diſcover the true cauſe of the aſto-
niſhing faculty poſſeſſed by theſe animals, of living equally well both in the
air and in the water.
Each ſide of its lungs is divided by a tranſverſe fiſſure into two
lobes.
The ſtomach, which reſembles in ſhape very nearly that of a hog, con-
tained a large quantity of calcareous ſand, amongſt which I obſerved ſe-
veral ſhell-fiſh that were ſtill entire. The firſt part of the function of di-
geſtion in this animal ſeems to conſiſt in deſtroying the ſhell in which
the fiſh is encloſed, whereby a quantity of ſand is produced in its ſtomach,
which does not appear to paſs through the reſt of the inteſtinal canal,
but is probably diſgorged in the ſame manner as many ſnakes diſgorge
the bones of the animals on which they feed. Poffibly too this ſand may
ſerve them as a ſort of ballaſt, by which they are enabled to keep them-
ſelves at the bottom of the ſea.
As the food upon which they live is very eaſily found, their mouth is
formed with a very ſmall orifice. As they live more in the water than
in the air, they require a great power of refračtion in the humours of the
eye ; whence the vitreous humour is found to be very denſe. They are
likewiſe provided with the membrana nićtitans, whereby they are enabled
to admit a greater or leſſer quantity of light to the eye at pleaſure.
The great variety of my other occupations did not permit me to purſue
theſe anatomical inveſtigations any farther.
The dried excrements of this animal produce a very fine powder of a
decp
MAY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 1 1 ||
deep yellow colour, which our painter thought might be uſed with ad-
vantage in the arts.
6th. I had not as yet been able to procure any of the flowers of a new
fpecies of the eucalyptus, remarkable by its fruit, which very much reſem-
bles a coat-button in ſhape. -
This tree, which is one of the talleſt in nature, as it grows ſometimes
to the height of 150 feet, bloſſoms only near its ſummit. Its trunk ex-
aćtly reſembles that of the eucalyptus reſinifera, when its ſpongy bark has
been peeled off. In other reſpects theſe two ſpecies are nearly of the
ſame dimenſions. The trunk, which is very ſtraight, at leaſt to onc half
of its height, might be uſefully employed in ſhip-building, and eſpecially
for maſts, although it is neither ſo light nor ſo elaſtic as that of the fir.
Poſſibly it might be of advantage to conſtruct maſts of different pieces of
timber, and even to perforate the large trunks of trees throughout their
whole length, ſo as to render them lighter, and to give them ſtrength by
binding them at equal diſtances with hoops of iron. By this means, I ſhould
think, they might be rendered as ſtrong as one could wiſh ; ſince perſons
verſed in mechanics know that a cylinder, though hollow, ſtill retains a
great degree of ſtrength. -
We were obliged to cut down one of theſe trees in order to obtain its
bloſſoms. Being already in a very ſlanting poſition, it was eaſily felled.
As the ſun ſhone very bright the ſap was mounting in abundance, and
as ſoon as the tree was cut down it flowed very copiouſly from the lower
part of the trunk.
This beautiful tree, which belongs to the tribe of the myrtles, has a
very ſmooth bark; its branches are ſomewhat crooked, and have towards
their extremity alternate leaves, ſlightly bent, and about ſix inches in
length, and one-half in breadth.
The flowers are ſolitary, and grow from the baſe of the ſtalk of the leaf.
The calix is ſhaped like an inverted urn, and conſiſts, like that of the
other genera of the ſame tribe, of a ſingle leaf, which falls off as ſoon as
the ſtamina are completely formed.
It has no corolla.
The
l 12 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
The ſtamina are numerous and attached to the fides of the receptacle.
The ſtyle is ſimple and divided at its baſe into four partitions. It has
only one ſtigma. * * *
The capſule is open at the top, and generally divided into four parti-
tions, which contain a number of angular ſeeds; at the baſe it has four
angles, two of which proječt more than the reſt. It is ſhaped like a
button ; on which account I have denominated this tree eucalyptus
globulus.
Explanation of the Figures in Plate XIII.
*, .
*$ y
* *
Fig. 1. Branch of the eucalyptus globulus.
Fig. 2. Flower. *
Fig. 3. Fruit.
Fig. 4. Calix. • .
The bark, leaves and fruit of this tree are of an aromatic nature, and
might be employed for economical uſes in the place of thoſe aromatics
with which we have hitherto been furniſhed excluſively by the Molucca
Iſlands. g . . . . r --
On the ſeventh, I was obliged to employ almoſt the whole day in pre-
paring my colle&tions, which accumulated prodigiouſly from day to day.
I could therefore extend my reſearches only to a very ſmall diſtance from
our anchoring-ſtation. But on the following day, I ſet out in the after-
noon with a deſign of ſpending three or four days in the woods without
returning at night to the ſhips. I was obliged to take this reſolution in
order to colle&t ſpecimens of ſuch plants as only grew at a confiderable
diſtance from our ſtation. . . . . . .
We had a great variety of different kinds of European grain on board,
which might be advantageouſly propagated at this extremity of New Hol-
land. The temperature that generally prevails in this country led us to
hope that they would ſucceed. Our gardener was directed to prepare a
ſpot of ground ſo as to render it fit for receiving this depoſit. He dug a
ſmall garden for this purpoſe on the eaſt coaſt of the harbour, fituated
E. N. E. of our place of anchorage. is . . "
We
"| 7
º */ &c., % -
-
**º-º-º-º-º-º-º-º-º:


MAY.] . OF LA PEROUSE. I 3
We ſlept on the banks of a rivulet near the weſtern extremity of
the great lake, along the ſouthern coaſt of which we directed our route
on the following day. We ſaw ſome pelicans; but they did not come
within gun-ſhot of us. *
Piron, the painter to the expedition, who was of our party took ſeveral
drawings of the landſcape. The round hills, covered with tall trees,
which bounded the horizon added greatly to the beauty of the pro-
ſpect.
We were obliged to return back by the road we had come, in order to
arrive at the oppoſite ſide of the lake. Piron returned on board.
I diſcovered an evergreen tree, which has its nut ſituated, like that of
the acajou, upon a fleſhy receptacle much larger than itſelf. I therefore
named this new genus exocarpos.
It has hermaphrodite flowers upon the ſame peduncle with others which
are diſtinctly male and female.
The male flowers have a calix divided into five roundiſh leaves; they
have no corolla ; the ſtamina, which are five in number, are ſmall and
attached to the calix between its diviſions; the germen abortive.
The female flowers have a calix ſimilar to that of the male ; but nei-
ther corolla nor ſtamina: the ovarium is globular, with a ſhort ſtyle; the
ſtigma circular and flat.
In the hermaphrodite flowers, the calix, ſtamina and ovarium are as I
have deſcribed them in the others.
The fruit is a nut of an almoſt ſpherical form, and of a blackiſh colour,
placed upon a receptacle, fleſhy, red, divided in the middle, and about
three times as large as the nut.
The kernel is of an oily nature, and of the ſame ſhape with its ſhell.
The principal chara&ers of this plant have led me to rank it among the
terebinthinaceous tribe, next to the anacardium. I have given it the
name of exocarpos cupreſformis.
Explanation of the Figures Plate XIV.
Fig, 1. A branch of the exocarpos cupreſſiformis. * *
P Fig.
l 14 WCFYAGE IN SEARCII. [1792.
Fig. 2. Portion of a branch in flower.
Fig. 3. Germen, with its ſtyle and ſtigma:
Fig. 4. Fruit.
Fig. 5. The fruit divided longitudinally, ſhewing a cavity in the middle
of the fleſhy peduncle.
Fig. 6. The nut.
Fig. 7. Part of the woody ſubſtance ſurrounding the nut. -
Towards the cloſe of the evening we arrived at the banks of a rivulet,
where we fixed our place of abode for the night. I obſerved at this
ſouthern extremity of New Holland ſeveral ſpecies of anciſºrum, analogous
to thoſe found at the ſouthernmoſt extremity of America. -
We were ſurrounded with pleaſant groves, conſiſting for the greater
part of a beautiful ſpecies of thºſium with ſtrait leaves.
The cold had obliged us to kindle a large fire. Some of us were
ſcarcely beginning to fall aſleep, when we ſuddenly heard the cry of a
beaſt of prey at a few paces diſtance. Our fire had probably been of
greater ſervice to us, in preventing this animal, which from the ſound of
its voice we believed to be a leopard, from approaching nearer, than we
ſhould have expected when we kindled it. *
I had found, on one of the preceding days, the upper jaw-bone of a
large animal of the carnivorous tribe. &
10th. As ſoon as the day appeared, we continued our journey on the
borders of the lake. At a very ſmall diſtance from the coaſt we obſerved
five iſlands covered with trees, which formed an agreeable contraſt with
the level ſurface of this vaſt ſheet of water.
We perceived, for the firſt time in this country, ſeveral quails that flew
at a great diſtance from us. *
After marching for ſeveral hours towards the north-eaſt, we found upon
a ſmall hill, under the ſhade of ſome very tall trees, two huts of the ſame
conſtruction with thoſe we had ſeen before. They were in perfectly good
preſervation, and ſeemed to have been lately inhabited.
I diſcovered a very beautiful plant, which forms a new genus very
diſtinét from any that has hitherto been deſcribed. It reſembles the iris,
but
º º - - -
(-rºº * ("… º/”
**º-º-º-º-º: ---

*Ax] OF LA PEROUTSE. } } {
but has only two ſtamina. On account of this ſingularity, I gave it the
name of diplarenna, and on account of its affinity with the genus moraea, I
called it diplarcuna mora'a.
The ſpatha has two partitions, and incloſes ſeveral flowers, which
leave it one after the other when they are ready to blow. They fade
much ſooner than thoſe of the iris and morea, ſo that I ſhould have given
up all hopes of having them copied, if new ones had not followcd the
'others which withered almoſt immediately after I had plucked the plant
from the ground.
Like the iris, it has no calix.
The corolla has ſix petals, three of which are interior, and much
ſmaller than the exterior ; of the three interior petals, the ſuperior is ra-
ther ſmaller than the reſt, and more inflated towards the baſe.
Upon examining a great number of the flowers, I have uniformly
found that they contain only two ſtamina, the filaments of which termi-
nate in a point ſupporting antherae of a white colour, and marked with
two fiſſures. In the place of a third ſtamen, I have only found a ſmall
filament,without any antherae, ſituated between the ſuperior interior petal.
The ovarium is inferior. It has three angles, and is ſupported by a
long peduncle. ---
The ſtyle is a little longer than the ſtamina, cylindrical, and termi-
nated by a ſtigma ſhaped like a ſhepherd's crook.
The capſule has three partitions, containing ſeveral ſpherical ſeeds,
which are fixed to a receptacle that extends from the middle of the par-
titions to the top.
This genus, which naturally ranks after the iris and the morata, has all
the habitudes of thoſe plants. Its leaves are of the ſame ſword-like form,
with their edges compreſſed near the baſe.
Explanation of the Figures in Plate XV.
Fig. 1. The plant. -
Fig. 2. The flower-buds diſplayed by cutting away the ſpatha. A
full-blown flower with the three exterior petals torn off. g
P2 Fig.
16 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
Fig. 8. An exterior petal ſeen from its inner ſurface,
Fig. 4. The ſame petal ſeen from its outer ſurface.
Fig. 5. Interior petals turned down, to give a view of the ſtamina and
ſtyle. -
Fig. 6. The ſtamen ſeen through a magnifying glaſs.
Fig. 7. The ſtyle with its ſtigma.
Fig. 8. A part of the germen, the ſtamen and ſtyle having been taken
away, in order to ſhew the ſmall filament, which is found in the place of
a third ſtamen.
Fig. 9. Lower half of the capſule divided tranſverſely, to ſhew the
three partitions.
Fig. 10. Upper half of the capſule divided longitudinally, to ſhew the
feeds. ^-
As we were walking through a ſmall grove, where the underwood grew
very thick, I rouſed a large kangarou at a very ſmall diſtance from me.
He immediately ran a length of about thirty paces through one of thoſe
narrow paths which theſe animals make for themſelves through the
thicket, where they are obliged to uſe all their four feet, as they have no
room for an erect poſture; and having reached the farther end, bounded
away over the buſhes with ſuch ſwiftneſs, that we ſoon loſt fight of him.
We found a ſheet of water covered with a prodigious number of wild
ducks, which flew up when we were quite cloſe to them; but we were
ſo little prepared for ſuch good fortune, that we were not able to kill a
fingle bird.
A high wind ſprung up towards night, which ſeemed to threaten rain.
As we had no place of ſhelter near us, we were obliged to ſleep in the
open air. We conſtructed a fence againſt the wind with branches, under
ſhelter of which it was eaſy to kindle a large fire.
11th. On the following day we direéted our courſe eaſtward, and tra-
verſed a vaſt plain, beſet in many places with marſhes, where the plants
with which they are overgrown conceal the danger one is expoſed to in
paſſing through them. The water collected in the loweſt ſituations gives
riſe to a number of very fine rivulets: . -
A very
(///º - //º
*** * *-w, ºn-wºo.
º

MAY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 117
A very large kangarou ſprang out of a buſh about four paces from me.
I pointed my gun at him, but it miſſed fire, and the animal walked off
very compoſedly, following one of thoſe tracks through the thicket which
they uſually frequent. Theſe tracks are covered paſſages which croſs
each other in every direétion, and run very cloſe one to another. The
numerous prints of the feet of thoſe quadrupeds obſervable upon them,
ſhew that they abound in this country. The beſt way of catching
them would be to hunt them with dogs, as they generally keep them-
ſelves in the thickeſt part of the woods. Their tracks generally terminate
at ſome rivulet.
Having exhauſted our ſtock of proviſions, we were compelled to en-
deavour to reach the ſhips before night. We wandered about the woods
a long time before we arrived at the north-eaſt extremity of the harbour,
from whence we had a diſtant view of our veſſels. It was not without
great difficulty that we reached the place where they rode at anchor, as
we had to paſs through many very rugged grounds.
12th. The whole day was hardly ſufficient for me to prepare and de-
ſcribe what I had colle&ted on our laſt excurſion.
Having left ſome of my ſpecimens which could not be preſerved with-
out being daily attended to, in the care of one of the ſervants, who re-
mained on board during my abſence; I had the ſatisfaction to find them
in good condition.
Citizen Riche found ſome human bones amongſt the aſhes of a fire
made by the natives. Several bones of the pelvis he diſcovered by their
form to have been part of the ſkeleton of a young woman: ſome of them
were ſtill covered with pieces of broiled fleſh. I am, however, ſcrupu-
lous of ranking the natives of this country with the cannibals: I rather
ſuppoſe that they have the cuſtom of burning the bodies of their dead; as
theſe were the only human bones that were ſeen during the whole of our
abode in this place.
On the 13th I went to the place where our men were taking in their
water. It was furniſhed by a ſmall rivulet, which diſcharges itſelf
into the harbour, after flowing amongſt the trunks of fallen trees with
which
! ! 3 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [179:
which the country is covered. The rotten wood gives the water of this
rivulet a browniſh tinge. They were obliged to roll the caſks upwards
of a hundred yards to the boats, as theſe could not come nearer to the
ihore on account of the ſhallowneſs of the bottom.
We found the carpenters employed in raiſing the ſides of our pinnace,
which had ſhortly before been overſet whilſt it was ſailing in the harbour.
The crew had been obliged to ſave themſelves by ſwimming till affiſtance
was brought them. It had been furniſhed with too high a maſt, and
nºtic h too large a fail, by the lieutenant, who ought to have underſtood
the proportions better. *
The wood made uſe of by the carpenters was that of the new ſpecies
of the cucalyptus, which I have denominated eucalyptus globulus. They
thought it very good timber for ſhip-building. -
A perpetual moiſture prevailed in the thick foreſts into which I pene-
trated towards S. W. Moſſes and ferns of various kinds grew there with
great luxuriance. I killed a bird of that ſpecies of the merops, which
White has denominated the wattled bee-eater, and of which he has given
a very good engravin
each ſide of its head.
I was obliged to make great haſte in preparing the ſkins of the birds
which I wiſhed to preſerve; for the fleſh, when expoſed to the air, very
ſoon became full of ſmall living larvae, depoſited in it by a fly of a reddiſh
brown colour, which is viviparous like that of our country, known by
the name of muſa carnaria. Theſe larvae accelerate the putrefaction of
fleſh in a ſurpriſing manner.
g. It is remarkable for its two large excreſcenccs on
As we intended to weigh anchor on the following day, I wiſhed to
make the beſt uſe of thc laſt moments of our ſtay in this place, and went
on ſhore at the caſterly coaſt neareſt to our veſſels.
J viſited, in company with the gardener, the ſpot where he had ſown dif-
fercnt kinds of Europcan grains. It was a plot of ground of twenty-ſeven
ſcet by twenty-one, divided into four beds. The ſoil was rather too full
of clay to inſure the ſucceſs of the ſecd. -
When we had cntered the woods, a quadruped of thc ſize of a large dog
ſprang
MAY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 1 Q
ſprang from a buſh quite near to one of our company. This animal,
which was of a white colour ſpotted with black, had the appearance of a
beaſt of prey. There can be little doubt that theſe countries will at ſome
future time add ſeveral new ſpecies to the claſſes of zoology. A ſpinal
vertebra, that was found in the interior part of the country, the body of
which was about four inches in diameter, gives reaſon to believe that very
large quadrupeds will ſome time be diſcovered here.
A very heavy rain, which overtook us about the middle of the day,
obliged us to halt. We ſheltered ourſelves in the hollow trunk of a large
tree that was upwards of twenty-four feet in circumference. We at-
tempted to kindle a fire in it after the manner of the New Hollanders,
but the ſmoke ſoon drove us from our retreat.
We endeavoured to penetrate into parts which we had not yet viſited.
A glade, at which we arrived, ſeemed to condućt us towards the north-
eaſt plain. We had only three hours of the day before us. A ſteep
aſcent impeded our journey, large trees heaped one upon another ob-
ſtructed the path, and the ſhrubs, to which the moiſture that prevails in
theſe foreſts, give an uncommonly luxuriant growth, increaſed the diffi-
culties we had to cncounter. Amongſt theſe ſhrubs was a beautiful
ſpecies of polypodium, the ſtem of which grows to the height of twelve
feet.*
Towards cloſe of evening we found ourſelves on the borders of the leſſer
lake. The woods that ſurrounded it did not permit us to follow it dry-
ſhod in all its windings: the water through which we had to wade was,
fortunately, not very deep. Notwithſtanding the darkneſs of the night,
I diſcovered a new ſpecies of refio, which I had never ſeen before. *
This lake, though it is connected with the ſea at high water, does not
abound with fiſh. Some of the crew of the Eſperance had been here
with their nets, but caught nothing.
Having reached the ſea-ſhore, we had ſtill a conſiderable part of our
* The reader will eaſily excuſe me for not enumerating by name all the curioſities of
natural hiſtory, which I colle&ted during this expedition ; eſpecially as I intended to do
it in a ſeparate work.
march
1 20 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792,
march before us. It was night, and the thick clouds increaſed its obſcu-
rity. Sometimes we were obliged to paſs over large blocks of rounded
ſtones waſhed by the ſurge. We groped our way along the ſhore, at the
hazard of falling into the ſea, and it was with great difficulty that we
were able to ſupport ourſelves on our feet annongſt the wet ſtones, that
were rendered ſtill more ſlippery by being covered with fucus and other
marine produćtions. 4. # *
A great number of phoſphoric animalcules, of different ſizes, were
driven on ſhore by the waves, and afforded us the only light we had to di-
rečt our ſteps. * -
At length we arrived at the place where the tents had been pitched for
taking aſtronomical obſervations. We found nobody there, as the in-
ſtruments had already been carried on board. t
Our maſter ſail-maker having gone the preceding day on a ſhooting
excurſion, without any companion, had loſt his way in the woods, where
he was obliged to ſpend the night. Several guns were fired to let him
know where the ſhips lay at anchor; and in the afternoon he returned on
board emaciated with hunger and fatigue. Having ſet out without any
proviſions, he had been a day and an half without food. He related,
that during the night ſeveral quadrupeds had come to ſmell at him, within
a few inches diſtance. Many of the crew believed him on his word; but
we, who had ſpent ſeveral nights in the woods, and had never met with
ſuch familiarity from the beaſts, were not ſo credulous; but far from
imagining that he wiſhed to impoſe upon us, we found, in his narrative,
the natural effects produced upon the imagination of a man deprived of
nouriſhment, and all alone in the midſt of immenſe and pathleſs foreſts.
15th. On the preceding day the large anchor had been drawn up and a
£maller one moored, that we might be able the ſooner to leave the har-
bour. The ſame had been done by the Eſperance. Some ſudden blaſts
from the north-eaſt, during the night, drove both ſhips from their anchors
and ran them aground in the mud. They, however, ſuffered no damage,
and were eaſily ſet again afloat. It was ſurpriſing that they ſhould have
thought themſelves ſecure with one ſmall anchor, but juſt moored in a
muddy
MAY.] CF LA PERO USE. } X i
muddy bottom, as this ſort of bottom affords very little hold till the an-
chor be ſunk to a conſiderable depth.
We only waited for a favourable wind to leave the harbour. During
the whole day it was contrary, and in the night time it blew with
great violence. Dauribeau, however, although we had ran aground only the
night before, thought it ſufficient to moor a ſingle cablet ; but his opinion
was over-ruled by the reſt of the officers, who knew, from experience, the
neceſſity of holding by the large anchor.
During our abode at the Cape of Van Diemen we had only ſeen the
natives at at a conſiderable diſtance; thoſe who had obſerved us having
always fled with great precipitation. Some of them left behind then
their houſehold utenſils, which gave us a very imperfect ſpecimen of their
induſtry. Theſe were baſkets, clumſily conſtructed of the reeds known
by the name of juncus acutus, and drinking veſſels, made of a large piece
of fucus palmatus, cut into a circular form, and moulded into the ſhape
of a purſe. We never found any weapons of defence in the places from
whence they had fled: no doubt, they either carried them away, or carefully
concealed them, for fear that we might employ them againſt themſelves.
Theſe ſcattered huts indicated a very ſcanty population; and the heaps
of ſhells which we found near the ſea-ſhore, ſhewed that theſe ſavages
derive their principal means of ſubſiſtence from the ſhell-fiſh which they
find there.
As we only once diſcovered human bones in this country, and thoſe
partly burnt, it appears that they do not expoſe the bodies of their dead
to the open air. It is difficult to know whether it be their uſual cuſtoni
to burn them : poſſibly they bury them in the earth, or throw them into
the ſea.
The great number of tracks marked with prints of the feet of quadru-
peds, ſhew that they abound in this country. They probably remain
during the day-time in the thickeſt part of theſe inacceſſible foreſts.
A great number of ſmall rivulets diſcharge themſelves into the harbour.
The ground was here ſo full of moiſture, that wherever a hole was dug
of a moderate depth, it innmediately became filled with water.
Q We
# 22 VOYAGE IN SEARCH | 1792.
We generally took copious draughts of fiſhes with our nets; eſpecially
when the eaſt and ſouth-eaſt winds drove them into the bay.
Van Diemen's land was diſcovered by Taſman in the month of No-
vember, 1642. When Captain Cook anchored here four years after Fur-
neaux, in the year 1777, he thought himſelf the third European naviga-
tor who had been upon this coaſt. Cook did not know at that time
that Captain Marion, after having remained here for ſome time, ſailed
from thence on the 10th of March, 1772. The natives condućted them-
ſelves in a very different manner to theſe two navigators. Poſſibly the
gentleneſs with which they behaved to Captain Cook, might be an effect
of their terror for European fire-arms, of which they had received an idca
from Marion's having been under the neceſſity of uſing them againſt them.
The place of our obſervatory, ſituated near the entrance of the harbour
to the right of the veſſels, was 43° 32' 24" S. lat. 144° 46' E. long.
The variation of the magnetic needle was 7° 39' 39" E.
The inclination of a flat needle was 70° 30'.
The tides flowed only once a day. The time of high water in the
harbour at full and change days, was between nine and twelve o'clock,
the water riſing about ſix feet perpendicular height. The tides were
very much influenced by the winds, which often advanced or retarded
them by ſeveral hours.
The ſheltered ſituation of this harbour renders it the moſt commodious
in the world for veſſels to put into in order to be repaired. The vaſt
foreſts, with which it is ſurrounded, furniſh a timber which our carpen-
ters confidered as very proper for ſhip building, and which they employed
with great advantage.
During our ſtay of nearly a month at this place, the weather was very
unfavourable for making aſtronomical obſervations. The ſeaſon of the
ycar was likewiſe not an eligible one for inveſtigating theſe coaſts, which
was rendered ſtill more difficult by the violence of the winds.
Whilſt we remained at the Cape of Van Diemen, the north-weſt and
fouth-weſt winds were very violent: the former were generally attended
with ſtorms and heavy rains.
As
MAY. OF LA PEROUSE, 1 2 3
As ſoon as it was day the veſſels were towed to the mouth of the har.
bour, from whence we ſailed with a north breeze towards the new ſtrait,
which we intended to enter.
After ranging along the windings of the reef, which we had left on our
larboard ſide when we entercq Tempeſt-bay, we were at ten o'clock in
the forenoon at the diſtance of about 7,000 toiſes from the entrance of
the ſtrait, which bore N. N. W. when we trimmed our ſails as ſharp as
poſſible.
The ſummits of the higheſt mountains were already whitened with
the finow. Theſe mountains form part of a chain which extends from
ſouth-caſt to north-weſt, and terminates near the fartheſt extremity of
the harbour.
We were much gratified in viewing, from the ſhip, the places which
we had lately viſited in our excurſions.
At one time we obſerved a thick ſmoke aſcending from the diſtant
country to the northward of the great lake, and ſoon deſcried five of the
natives walking away from a fire which they had juſt been kindling on
the ſhore : one of them carried a fire-brand in his hand with which he
lightcd the flames in different places, where the fire preſently caught and
was almoſt as ſoon extinguiſhed.
We plied to windward, keeping in with the coaſt; as we had no dan-
ger to apprend from approaching it.
A ſlight breeze from the north, as well as the tide, being againſt us,
we could not enter the ſtrait before night. We therefore caſt anchor at
the mouth of it, in a bottom of grey ſand, at the depth of 30 fathoms.
The place where we had pitched our tents of obſervation was then at the
diſtance of about 10,000 toiſes to the weſtward.
The mercury in the barometer having been gradually falling for the
ſpace of four and twenty hours, remained ſtationary at 27% inches, though
the ſky appeared ſtill very clear. We were not without ſome uneaſineſs,
as ſo great a variation in the barometer had never failed during our ſtay in
the harbour to be followed by violent winds. Probably ſuch blew at a
diſtance, but we experienced none of their effects. During the night
we ſaw a fire to the weſt, kindled by the natives.
Q 2 A S
! 24 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
17th. The current having become favourable about nine in the morning,
we weighed anchor with a northerly breeze, and plied to the windward.
We were near enough to the coaſt to be able to perceive at the en-
trance of the ſtrait a ſort of free-ſtone, ſimilar to that found in port
Dentrecaſteaux.
The ſnows had increaſed prodigiouſly upon the ſummits of the high
mountains, during the preceding night.
The mercury in the barometer had ſunk to 27 inches 4 4-1 oth lines,
though the breeze from the north ſtill continued ſlight.
It was night when we entered the ſtrait to which we gave the name of
our Commander, Dentrecaſteaux. About ſeven o'clock in the evening
we caſt anchor in a bottom of blackiſh mud mixed with ſhells, at the
depth of 22; fathoms.
We were in lat. 43° 20' S.; long. 145° 10' E. \
The Eſperance was appriſed of our having caſt anchor by a fignal
from the main-maſt, and did the ſame at the diſtance of about 1,000
toiſes from us.
The ſlighteſt agitation produced a great degree of phoſphoreſcence in
the ſea, during the whole night.
Very violent ſqualls, accompanied with rain, obliged us to pay out our
cable, and unbend our top-gallant gear. *
18th. The darkneſs of the ſky kept us impatiently awaiting the m
ment when we could enjoy the beautiful proſpect of the immenſe bay
which forms the entrance of Strait Dentrecaſteaux. At length the ho-
rizon cleared up. Wherever the eye could reach the coaſt was indented
with ſpacious bights in the land, where navigators, driven by ſtreſs of
weather, might fly for ſhelter with ſecurity. We ſurveyed with aſto-
niſhment the immenſe extent of theſe harbours, which might eaſily COIl-
tain the combined fleet of all the maritime powers of Europe. The .
right foreland of the ſtrait bore S. 43°W.
As the wind abated about 11 o'clock in the forenoon, we availed our-
ſelves of this opportunity to fit out the pinnace. The engineer was diſ-
patched in order to examine whether an opening ſeen N. 30° E. afforded
a paſſage for our veſſels,
MAY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 125
The ebb-tide drifted us from eight in the evening till two in the morn-
ing at the rate of half a knot every hour to N. W. N.
The ſtiffneſs of the breeze preventing us from ſending any of our
boats to the ſhore, we were obliged to remain on board.
19th. On the following day we were landed at the diſtance of 2,500
toiſes S. W. on an iſland which bounds this channel throughout its whole
length. A boat belonging to the Eſperance had paſſed the night at the
ſame place, and taken a great quantity of fiſh.
It was a great gratification to me to traverſe this country, where I
found a large number of new plants, the moſt numerous of which be-
longed to the genus of melaleuca, after, epacris, &c.
The ſhore of the channel afforded us a very eaſy path through the
buſhes which are here but thinly ſcattered. We afterwards climbed up
ſome ſteep aſcents which riſe to about 25 toiſes perpendicular height
above the level of the ſea. We here obſerved a quantity of ſea-ſalt de-
poſited by the waves in the cavities of the hard freeſtone which forms the
baſis of theſe hills.
We had ſcarcely proceeded a thouſand toiſes, when the remains of a
hut and heaps of ſea-ſhells ſhewed us that this iſland was inhabited.
We ſaw here for the firſt time the partridge of the Cape of Van
Diemen. We ſprung a very large covey of them, which lighted at a
great diſtance from us.
Late in the evening we met Citizen Riche, who had paſſed the night
with the fiſhermen. We gladly accepted his offer to ſhare the fruits of
his fiſhery with us, and he ſhev, ed us a ſmall ſpring, where we had the
pleaſure of refreſhing ourſelves with excellent water over a meal of very
fine fiſh and muſcles, which we broiled upon the coals after the manner
of the New Hollanders. After ſuch a repait we had little occaſion for
the proviſions we had brought with us from the ſhip.
We were informed that the principal officers of the Recherche had
agitated the queſtion among themicives, whether the gentlemen engaged
in reſearches of natural hiſtory had any right to the freſh proviſions diſtri-
buted on board, whilſt they were employed upon ſhore in making the
collec-
y 26 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
coffečtions which the objećt of their appointment required. Care was
taken that none of their number ſhould be admitted to theſe diſcuſſions s
and as they had no one to ſupport their right, the queſtion was ſoon de-
cided againſt them, contrary to every idea of juſtice. I muſt add, that
though the perſons who had the charge of providing for our table were
frequently changed, thcy all adhered with the utmoſt punétuality to the
dićtates of this incauitable decree.
It was already night when our boat came to fetch us. Riche was ob-
liged to avail himſelf of the opportunity; otherwiſe he would have been
under the neceſſity of remaining on ſhore. He was, however, compelled
to ſtay for the night on board of the Recherche, although it was of great
conſequence to him to return to the Eſperance, as the preparation of the
ſpecimens which he had collected, required to be immediately attended ta.
20th. A ſmall iſland, ſituated S. 42° W. about 2,500 toiſes from our
anchoring ſtation, had been denominated Partridge Iſland by ſome of
our crew who diſcovered it. Citizen Riche and myſelf ſpent the fol-
lowing day upon the iſland ; but inſtead of partridges we found a great
number of quails there. Whether thoſe who had firſt viſited it had taken
the one fowl for the other, or whether the partridges had ſince left the
iſland, I muſt leave undecided.
This ſmall iſland is upwards of 100 toiſes in length, and ſituated in
43° 23' 30" S. lat. The new ſpecies of parſley, which I had denomi-
nated apium proffratum, grew in abundance upon the ſhore, almoſt as far
as high water mark. We took a great quantity of it on board with us.
Many ſpecies of the caſuariua grew here, and ſeemed to thrive very well
hotwithſtanding the humidity of the ſoil. Amongſt the plants which I
faw for the firſt time was a remarkable ſpecies of the limodorum, of which
I had a drawing taken ; I alſo collečted various kinds of ferns, and a beau-
tiful ſpecies of the glycine, remarkable for its ſcarlet flower.
No freſh water is found upon this iſland; though ſeveral forſaken huts
fhewed that it had been frequented by the ſavages.
Two of the officers of our veſſel, Cretin and Dauribcau, went about ſix
o'clock in the morning to ſurvey the coaſt to the eaſtward of our ſtation,
where
MAY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 127
where they found ſeveral bays extending from N. W. to S. E. They ob-
ſerved ſeveral creeks, which formed as many harbours; but a ſtrong con-
trary wind prevented them from examining them farther into the land.
Seeing ſeveral fires at a ſmall diſtance from the ſhore, they determined to
land ; when as ſoon as they had entered the woods, they found four fa-
vages employed in laying fuel upon three ſmall fires, about which they
were ſitting. The ſavages immediately fled, notwithſtanding all the
ſigns of amity which they made them, leaving their crabs and ſhell-fiſh
broiling upon coals. Near this place they ſaw other fires and huts.
It appears that this ſpot is much frequented, as fourteen fire-places
were diſcovered.
One of theſe ſavages, who was very tall and muſcular, having left be-
hind him a ſmall baſket filled with pieces of flint, was bold enough to
come quite near to Cretin in order to fetch it, with a look of aſſurance
with which his bodily ſtrength ſeemed to inſpire him. Some of the ſa-
vages were ſtark naked ; the reſt had the ſkin of a kangourou wrapped
about their ſhoulders. They were of a blackiſh colour, with long beards
and curled hair.
The utenſils which they left behind them conſiſted of about thirty
baſkets made of ruſhes, ſome of which were filled with ſhell-fiſh, and
lobſters, others with pieces of flint and fragments of the bark of a tree
as ſoft as the beſt tinder. Theſe ſavages, undoubtedly, procure them-
ſelves fire by ſtriking two pieces of flint together, in which they differ
from the other inhabitants of the South Sea iſlands, and even from thoſe
of the more eaſterly part of New Holland; whence there is ground to
believe that they are deſcended from a different origin.
They likewiſe left behind them ſeveral kangourou ſkins and drinking
veſſels.
The officers forbade the ſailors to take away any of the utenfils of the ſa-
vages: they, however, ſelected two baſkets, a kangourou ſkin, and a drink-
ing veſſel of fucus, to carry to the Commander. The ſavages had no rea-
ſon to regret the loſs of theſe utenſils, as they left, in place of them, ſeveral
knives and handkerchiefs, with ſome biſcuit, cheeſe, and an carthen pot,
<º. perhaps
$ 28 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
perhaps too brittle, but certainly a very good ſubſtitute for that which
had coſt them ſo little labour to manufacture.
The ſavages, though they took very few of their utenſils with them,
dropped ſome of them from time to time on their flight. Whether they
might do this in order to be able to run the faſter, or whether it was
with a deſign to amuſe the Europeans who followed them, I cannot
tell. -
A boat belonging to the Eſperance had been to examine a creek ſitu-
ated to the eaſtward, at the diſtance of about 5,000 toiſes. They had met
with one of the natives, who, notwithſtanding all the ſigns of amity they
made him, would not let them come within two hundred paces diſtance
of him. A fine rivulet diſcharges itſelf into the ſea near the fartheſt extre- *.
mity of the creek. The ſituation of this creek, oppoſite to an iſland which
ſhelters it from the ſurges, renders it an excellent place of ſhelter for veſ.
ſels that ſtand in need of any repairs.
The other creeks which they examined afforded in general very good
anchorage.
They diſcovered a bay that extended ſo far to the north-eaſt, that they
could not get within view of its extremity. Poſſibly ſome of theſe bights
in the land may be parts of channels which communicate with the ſea on
the oppoſite ſide. v’ 4. *
The preparation of the ſpecimens which I had colleóted on the pre-
ceding days, employed my whole leiſure on the 21ſt. •.
The gardener went with ſix other perſons in the long boat, with the
view of landing at the iſland which I had examined on the preceding day.
After having in vain contended with violent and contrary winds, they left
the boat adrift, thinking it would run into a creek under ſhelter of a ſmall
iſland, ſituated at the entrance of the channel which they had before en-
deavoured to reach. But this ſtep was very near proving their ruin: their
ſail fell into the ſea, and the boat, being ſuddenly ſtopped in its courſe,
ſoon began to be filled with water by the violenee of the ſurge. At length
they arrived, overcome with fati guc, under the ſhelter of the iſland, where
the calm that prevailed afforded them a pleaſing reſpite from their toils
and
MAY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 129
and dangers. The Commander, anxious about their fate, ſent a boat in the
afternoon in queſt of them, as he knew that whilſt the wind remained ſo
unfavourable, the long boat could not return to the ſhip without aſſiſtance.
Towards cloſe of evening, we had the ſatisfaction of ſeeing them return
on board. They told us that having proceeded along the coaſt in a S. S.
E. direétion, they found by ſome fires that the ſavages were near ; that
they had ſoon met with ſeveral of them, who were the ſame that had
been ſeen the day before, but that they did not ſuffer them to approach
them. They found ſome ſhell-fiſh broiling upon the fires which the ſa-
vages had left with precipitation, and more than thirty kangarou ſkins
which they found at a little diſtance, ſhewed them to be very expert in
hunting.
It appeared that they had made uſe of the bread and water, which had
been left for them on the preceding day; but the ſmell of the cheeſe had
probably given them no inclination to taſte it, as it was found in the ſame
condition in which it had been depoſited. They found at the ſame place
one of the knives and handkerchiefs that had been left among the utenſils
of the natives.
Some ſhots that were fired at birds, probably terrified theſe ſavages; for
when ſome of our men went to the ſame place two days afterwards, they
ſaw none of them.
22d. The boats were ſent to take in water at a creek that had lately been
diſcovered to the eaſtward. I availed myſelf of the opportunity to viſit this
place, which was ſituated at the diſtance of about 5,000 toiſes from our
anchoring ſtation. It forms a harbour, about 150 toiſes in breadth and
500 in length, with ſufficient bottom for large veſſels to ride at anchor in
it. A rivulet that diſcharges itſelf into it near its extremity, affords very
good water, which, however, was not caſily taken in by the boats, ſince,
in order to have it perfectly pure, it was neceſſary to roll the barrels from
the diſtance of more than 150 toiſes over the nuddy bottom. Our men
might have been ſpared this unhealthy labour, if pipes of leather or of ſail-
cloth, ſmeared over with tar, had been employed, by which the water
might eaſily have been conveyed into the boats. The advantag, s of ſuch a
R practice
I 30 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
practice will particularly be apparent in caſes where the impracticability
of entering a rivulet with the boats obliges mariners to take in brackiſh
water; whereas, by means of a pipe carried a few hundred yards higher up.
the ſtream, they might procure it without any admixture of ſea-water.
which renders it very unwholeſome to drink. -
The banks of this rivulet produced ſeveral new ſpecies of caſuarines, one
of which was remarkable for the club-like form of its fruit. I alſo ob-
ferved a pretty tall ſhrub, which eſtabliſhes a new genus of the cruciferous
tribe.
The tracks of the kangarous were very numerous, terminating at the
rivulet, where theſe animals frequently come to drink.
As the wind had been againſt us when we ſailed for this watering place,
we had a right to expe&t that it would be favourable to our return; but a
calm ſupervened, and it laſted ſeveral hours before we reached the ſhips.
The pinnace returned after a voyage of four days, in which the whole
extent of the ſtrait had been ſurveyed. It is about 20,000 toiſes in length
from S. W. to N. E. They had every where found a depth of at leaſt
ſix fathoms and an half, over a bottom of mud, and ſometimes of fine ſand.
It is ſeparated from Adventure-bay by a narrow ſlip of land, not more
than 200 toiſes at its greateſt breadth.
We now waited only for a favourable wind to follow the ſtrait, in order
to take an exact ſurvey of it. The N. and N. W. breezes were contrary,
and, beſides, ſo ſlight, that we were obliged to remain the whole day at
anchor.
During the night we ſaw ſeveral fires of the natives to S. E.
24th. On the following morning we weighed anchor, and plied to
windward at the diſtance of about 500 toiſes from the land. We found
every where a depth of watcr of at leaſt 64 fathoms, over a very good
bottom. z
Though the thermometer had never indicated more than 7° above the
point of congelation, even in the coldeſt mornings, the ſnows had greatly
increaſed upon the high mountains ſeen W. N. W.
Whilſt the currents continued favourable we gained ground at every
tack;
• *,
MAY.] OF LA PEROUSL. ! 3 i
tack; but about fix o'clock in the evening they became contrary; and
we caſt anchor in a bottom of grey ſand at the depth of eight fathoms,
very near to the coaſt, and to the northward of the ſtation from whence
we had ſailed in the morning.
The natives kindled more than twenty fires upon the coaſt towards the
ſouth. Many families of thena had probably come down to the coaſt
upon hearing the news of our being in the bay. -
25th. About ſeven in the morning the current was favourable, and we
made ſeveral tacks in order to cnter a narrower part of the channel,
where we ranged very near to the weſt coaſt, ſteering N. E. N.
Having proceeded about 2,500 toiſes along this channel, we entered a
ſecond bay upwards of 5,000 toiſes in length, and bounded to the weſt by
pretty high grounds; the eaſtern coaſt, which ſeparates this ſtrait from
Adventure-bay, was leſs elevated.
About half an hour after one in the afternoon, we caſt anchor at the
diſtance of 500 toiſes from the ſhore ; Cape Canelé bearing S. 33° E.
I went on ſhore to north-weſt, where I found the woods very full of
thickets, and extremely damp, though no rain had fallen for ſeveral days.
A new ſpecies of ptelea grew in great abundance amongſt the ſhrubs with
which this country was covered.
26th. We weighed anchor about ſeven in the morning, and found our-
felves, at noon, in a third bay, where the great number of openings in the
land left us for ſome time doubtful what courſe we ſhould ſteer, in order to
get out of it, which we a length accompliſhed, to north-weſt, by the moſt
diſtant of the openings. The depth of water in this bay was not leſs
than eleven fathoms about the middle, and at leaſt fix and a half at the
diſtance of a hundred toiſes from the ſhore.
IHaving procceded almoſt 10,000 tones to N. N. W. we anchored
about half an hour after three in the afternoon, in a depth of fourteen fa-
thoms and a half, with a muddy bottom. As it was probable that, in
caſe the wind ſhould become favourable, we might proceed on our courſe
before night; none of us went on ſhore.
On the 27th, about eight o'clock in the norning, we weighed anchor.
|R 2 The
132 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
The current ſoon ſet againſt us, and obliged us to caſt anchor at the
depth of twelve fathoms and a half, in a bottom of ſand mixed with mud.
We were then in 43°4′ S. lat. 145° 17' E. long.
At the diſtance of two thouſand five hundred toiſes to north-eaſt, the
fartheſt end of the ſtrait through which we were to paſs, was viſible.
A fire at a ſmall diſtance from the ſhore appriſed us of the natives being
near. We ſoon after obſerved one of them walking along the ſhore.
Two boats were ſent out to tranſport ſome of our men to both ſhores
of the ſtraits. They diſcovered a number of the ſavages landing from a
raft on the eaſt ſhore. As timid as thoſe we had ſeen before, they had
haſtened with all poſſible ſpeed to the land, where they made their eſcape
into the woods, leaving behind them ſeveral darts of a very clumſy con-
{truction.
I went on ſhore at the place where the ſavages had diſappeared, and
found ſeveral pieces of very beautiful hard granite, rounded by the water.
We found four rafts, made of the bark of trees, on the beach. Theſe
rafts are only fit for croſſing the water when the ſea is very tranquil;
otherwiſe they would ſoon be broken afunder by the force of the waves.
As the ſavages poſſeſs the art of hollowing the trunks of trees by means
of fire, they might employ the ſame method to make themſelves canoes;
but the art of navigation has made as little progreſs amongſt them as the
reſt.
Having arrived at the extremity of the ſtrait, I found ſome fine cryſtals
of feld-ſpath in ſeveral rocks of very hard ſand ſtone.
On the tops of the hills I met with the plant deſcribed by Phillips, in
his account of his voyage to Botany-bay, under the name of the yellow
gum-tree. As it was already in ſeed, I had no opportunity of examining
the chara&ters requiſite for determining its genus. To me it appears to
belong to that of dracaena. The grains were contained in long ears, filled
with a vaſt number of larvae, which are afterwards metamorphoſed into
ſmall phalenae of the moth kind.
The gum-reſin which flows from this plant is very aſtringent, and
might, no doubt, be uſed with advantage in medicine. The gummy
* principle
Z.A., %.” -
-
*** *** *****

MAY.] OF LA PEROUSE. I 33.
principle with which it abounds, renders it more apt to mix with the
fluids of the human body, and ought to give it a preference before many
other aſtringents that are employed.
Amongſt a variety of other beautiful plants, I found a very remarkable
one of the compoſite tribe, which had never before been diſcovered. It
conſtitutes a new genus, which I named richea, after Citizen Riche, one
of the naturaliſts to our expedition. This philoſopher fell a vićtim to his
love for ſcience, having made, when already in a very advanced ſtage of
conſumption, a long and fatiguing journey, in which he had more con-
ſulted his ſcientific zeal than the ſtate of his health.
This new genus naturally ranks in the third ſection of the cynaroce-
phales. (Juſs. gen. plant.) -
The common calix is compoſed of ſeveral obtuſe foliolae, ſcarious at
their extremities, of equal length, and diſpoſed in a ſingle row ; it incloſes
ſeveral diſtinét calices, each of which is ſupported by a very ſhort pe-
duncle. Each of the ſmall calices is compoſed of five or ſix foliolae, and
contains five or ſix floriolae, all hermaphrodite, and provided with ſheaths
of nearly the ſame length with themſelves.
The floriolae are inflated at their ſuperior extremity, and divided into
five equal diviſions. t
Five diſtinét filaments, attached to the inſide of the corolla, ſupport.
the ſame number of antherae, united in the form of a cylinder.
The ſtyle is filiform, and of an equal height with the ſtamina. The
ſtigma is bipartite. -
The ſeed is oval, covered with a light down, and has at the top twelve
or fourteen hairy tufts.
On account of the colour of the leaves of this plant I have called it
richea glauca. The flower is of a brimſtone-yellow colour.
Explanation of the Figures in Plate XVI.
Fig. 1. The plant.
Fig. 2. The flower ſeen from behind, ſo as to diſtinguiſh the common
Calix.
Fig.
134 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
. One of the ſmall calices, with its floriola.
Fig. 4. One of the floriola with its ſeed.
F.
§.
3
Fig. 5. The ſame ſeen through a magnifying glaſs.
Fig. 6. Floriola, divided longitudinally, to ſhew the ſtamina.
Fig. 7. The ſame ſeen through a magnifying glaſs.
One of the officers of the Recherche following a beaten path made by
the ſavages through the woods, met ſix of them walking ſlowly towards
the ſouth, who were all ſtark-naked, and armed with javelins ſixteen or
eighteen fect in length. Their ſurpriſe at ſo unexpected a rencounter
was viſible in their countenances; but their number inſpiring them with
courage, they approached at the invitations of the European, and bound
round their heads a handkerchief and neck-cloth which he offered them.
They, however, appeared terrified at the ſight of his hanger, which he
ſhewed them how to uſe; nor were their fears quieted till he made them
a preſent of it. He endeavoured in vain to perſuade them to come to
the place where our ſhips lay at anchor: the ſavages walked away, fol-
lowing the ſame path in a direction oppoſite to that which led to the
ſhore. w
Some of our men having landed on the other ſide of the ſtrait, came to
a large fire, round which eight ſavages, each of whom had a kangarou
wrapped round his ſhoulders, ſat warming themſelves under the ſhelter
of four fences againſt the wind. They immediately ran away as ſoon as
they ſaw our people.
An old woman who had the care of their proviſions, which ſhe did not
chooſe to leave behind her, was ſoon overtaken by ſome of the ſailors.
She accepted with an air of ſatisfaction, an handkerchief that was given
her, but was ſo terrified at the fight of a hanger, which they preſented to
her, that ſhe leapt down a precipice more than forty feet in height, and
ran away amongſt the rocks, where they ſoon loſt ſight of her.
I do not know whether thoſe who related this adventure in a different
manner, wiſhed to make themſelves merry at the expence of the reſt,
when thcy aſſerted that the age of this woman was no ſecurity for her
againſt the attempts of ſome of the ſailors: however, ſhe was ſtill young
.cnough
MAY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 1 35
enough to make her eſcape, leaving behind her two baſkets, in which
were found a lobſter, ſome muſcles, and a few roots of a fern, which I re-
cogniſed to belong to a new ſpecies of pteris, of which I had before col-
lečted a conſiderable quantity. Probably the ſavages chew theſe roots, in
order to expreſs the nutritious juice, which always abounds Inore or leſs
in plants of this ſpecies.
This woman, like the other ſavages, had the ſkin of a kangarou wrap-
ped about her ſhoulders: ſhe had likewiſe another of theſe ſkins bound
round her waiſt in the form of an apron. I ſuppoſe that ſhe had pro-
vided herſelf with this piece of clothing, more on account of the incle-
mency of the ſeaſon, than from a principle of modeſty; for thoſe of the
ſavage women who were ſeen at Adventure-bay by Captain Cook, at a
diſtance of not many hundred toiſes from this place, were ſtark naked :
and it is not probable that there ſhould be much difference of manners
between the natives of two countries ſo near to each other.
28th. A wind from the north blew in ſuch violent ſqualls during the
night, that the Eſperance was ſet adrift, though ſhe held by a very large
anchor.
We had ſpent more time in ſurveying the ſtrait of Dentrecaſteaux than
we had intended. Before we could reach the main ſea we had ſtill a paſ-
ſage of 2,500 toiſes to make through the channel. The wind was contrary,
but the tide favourable; ſo that we got under way about half an hour.
after nine in the morning. We often came within 150 toiſes of the coaſt,
where the ſoundings gave us our depth at 12 or 15 fathoms, in places
where the coaſt was high, and 6 or 64 fathoms near the low grounds.
At length we reached the extremity of the ſtrait. The two forelands
are at the diſtance of 2,500 toiſes from one another from S. E. to N. W.
We ranged very near to that on our ſtarboard ſide, where we found the
depth to be no more than 3 ; or 4 fathoms. Such a great diminution of
water at the termination of the ſtrait, led us to conjećture that the bottom
conſiſted of a hard rock that reſiſted the daily action of the tides, and the
ſoundings verified our ſuppoſition. This was the only bad bottom which
W.C. §
136 VOYAGE IN SEARCHI [1792.
we found throughout the whole extent of the ſtrait. We left it about
noon.; when we diſcovered an opening E. S. E. about 15,000 toiſes
in breadth, which affords a paſſage into the main ſea. 3.
To the northward we obſerved a vaſt bay, or rather a gulph, intercepted
with iſlands, and conneéted with the main land, which we ſaw at a diſ-
tance. Several bights in the land that incloſes the gulph, ſeemed likely
to afford good anchorage.
C H A P. VI.
4. -
Importance of the Strait of Dentrecaſeaux—Run from Cape Diemen to New
Caledonia—Coaſting the South Weſt of New Caledonia–Dangerous Situ-
ation of the Recherche near the Reefs on that Coaft—Little Cluſter of
Iſlands at the Northern Extremity of New Caledonia—View of the
Natives—Prodigious Extent of the Regfs—View of the Land of the Arſa-
cides, and of the Treaſiory Iſlands—Coaſting the Weſtern Part of the
Iſlands of Bougainville, and Bouka—Dangerous Situation of the Recherche,
on the Shoals off the Iſland of Bougainville—Interview with the Savages
of Bouka Iſland—Their Taſle for Muſic—Their Treachery—Their Canoes
—Determination of ſºveral Points of Bougainville and Bouka Iſlands—
Anchor in Carteret Harbour—Several Excluſions on the neighbouring
Land–Incºſant Rain during our Stay at Carteret Harbour—Different
Olſervations.
V 7 E had now compleated a geographical diſcovery of great import-
ance to navigation. It was a point of the greateſt utility to know
cxactly the harbours in which ſhips might find ſhelter from the heavy
gales and impetuous ſtorms, which prevail at this extremity of New Hol-
land. A road, which is not leſs than 22,000 toiſes in cxtent, in that par-
ticular
MAY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 137
ticular ſituation, might preſent great advantages to a commercial nation.
Throughout the whole road, a ſhip may caſt anchor with the certainty of
finding a good bottom, the depth being from 6 to 25 fathoms, and no
danger to be dreaded. At an equal diſtance between its two extremi-
ties, the bottom is of coarſe ſand, and not ſo good. There is alſo leſs
water, as the depth there does not exceed 6 fathoms. It ſhould ſeem
that the tide entering at once by both cxtremities had accumulated the
ſand, at the place where the oppoſite currents meet. A ſhip may, with-
out danger, come within 100 toiſes of the land. The ſinuoſities of the
land preſent a varied proſpect, and ſituations truly pictureſque.
The ſeaſon was advanced and the thermometer had not yet been lower
than 7° above o, although we were near the 44th degree of S. lat. Im-
petuous winds reigned in the open ſea, while in the ſtrait, we cnjoyed the
greateſt tranquillity. We did not expect to experience ſo much ſecurity
near the Bay of Tempeſts.
Fiſhes which prefer tranquil waters, abound in this channel, and we
were generally very fortunate in catching them.
Scarcely had we paſſed the ſtrait, to the diſtance of 1,500 toiſes when
we could no longer diſtinguiſh the opening. The depth increaſed, as we
advanced into the open ſea.
At noon, our latitude was 48° 1' S. and our longitude 145° 10' E.
We were not long in doubling Cape Pillar, and we immediately
ſteered a north-eaſt courſe, in order that we might explore the ſouth-
weſt coaſt of New Caledonia.
The mercury in the barometer ſunk into 27 inches 8 lines, and we had
a violent gale from the N. W. The motion of the ſhip was to me as
fickening as at our departure from Breſt. During our ſtay at Cape
Diemen, I had completely forgotten my ſailing habits.
On the 30th of May we had made great progreſs; for at noon, our la-
titude was 40° 55' S. and our longitude 150° 4' E.
The Mercury in the barometer had fallen to 27 inches 4 lines, and had
not deceived us in announcing impetuous winds. We could only feud
under our fore-ſail, which at laſt we were obliged to ſtrike, but fortu-
nately we had the wind a-ſtcrin.
S
Although
&
138 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
Although the thermometer was not lower than 0° 2-10ths above 0, the
cold was neverthcleſs great. The violent agitation of the air appeared to
me the principal cauſe of the ſenſation which we experienced.
On the firſt of June, having arrived in latitude 37° 17' S. and longitude
15.1° 5' E., we ſaw a great number of ſpeckled petrels (procellaria ca-
penſis) and many albatroſſes remarkable for the red extremities of their
wings.
2d. The next day many flying fiſhes, of the ſame ſpecies with thoſe
which we had ſo often met with elſewhere, falling on board of us, an-
nounced our arrival in parts of the ſea frequented by bonitoes.
The motion of the ſhip, ſince our departure, had made me ſo faint, that
I ſound myſelf abſolutcly incapable of taking the meaſures néceſſary for
the preſervation of the objećts which I had collected in my laſt excurſions.
3d. But this day the ſea became more calm, and allowed me to enter
upon that buſineſs. My ſpecimens had ſuffered no damage ; only I
found them ſlightly covered with moiſture.
5th. Since our departure from New Holland, we had been reduced to
ſhort allowance of water ; and the heat, which now began to be very ſen-
ſibly felt, rendered that privation the more painful. We were allowed
but a bottle in the day; although our want of it increaſed as we ap-
proached the torrid zone. For this beverage we could not ſubſtitute
wine, which became daily worſe, and brandy, which many preferred to
wine, rendered a greater quantity of water neceſſary. Salted proviſions
increaſed a thirſt, which we had not the means of quenching, and the
great quantity of ſea-ſalt introduced into our fluids, had communicated to
them a great degrec of acrimony. Thus the privation of freſh water is
onc of the principal cauſes of the diſeaſes of ſeamen.
Spotted petrels and many other birds which we ſaw on the 6th of
June, in latitude 34° 47' S., and longitude 159° 21' E., made us ſuppoſe
that we were approaching ſome iſland, ſtill too diſtant to be ſeen.
11th. About the middle of this day, we thought we ſaw land at eaſt.
After ſteering in that direction for an hour, the phantom diſappeared, and
we reſumed our courſe,
15th.
Jux E. OF EA PEROUSF'. 30
*-
15th. We ſhot a man-of-war bird, which was hovering over the ſhip.
This bird had in its bill one of the ſpecies of cuttle fiſh called ſºpia Joligo.
It had probably caught this molluſca, the inſtant before it received the fa-
tal ſtroke. In the Mediterranean, I have ſeen this ſpecies of cuttle fiſh
raiſe itſelf many feet above the ſurface of the water, by means of
membranous expanſions, ſituated laterally near its lower extremity : ſome
of them even dropped on board of us.
10th. About half an hour paſt five in the morning, we entered the Tor-
rid Zone, in 65° of E. longitude.
About eight we ſaw the Iſle of Pines, which is at a little diſtance from
the ſouthern point of New Caledonia. It had the appearance of a peak
of moderate elevation ; and we ſoon had a view of the low lands, with
which it is every where ſurrounded. We diſtinguiſhed large trees, to-
wards the ſouth-eaſt part of the iſland. Its poſition, which we deter-
mined, is in S. lat. 22°42', and E. long. 165° 14', which is but 47 leſs in
lat. and 4% more in long, than its poſition, as aſſigned by Captain Cook.
About five in the evening, we had ſight of New Caledonia in the
N. W., diſtant above twenty thouſand toiſes, and we ſteered towards
it; but about ſun-ſet, we were obliged to lay to for the Eſperance,
which always ſailed much worſe than our ſhip. We then had a view of
the coaſt, from 32° to the northward of weſt, to 32° to the weſtward of
north ; but we were ſtill too far diſtant to ſee the reefs, between that
iſland and the Iſle of Pines. The Eſperance joined us about eight at
night. It was proper for us to make many tacks during the night, but
it was ſo calm that the ſhip did not obey her helm.
A ſouth-weſt wind brought us near New Caledonia; although we ex-
pećted to meet with the winds, which generally prevailed ſeveral days be-
fore we made the land.
The ſmall change of variation which the compaſs had undergone, dur-
ing the tranſit which we had made, is very well worthy of remark. We
may look upon it as nothing, from ſouth latitude 36° 30', and eaſt longi-
tude 154°, where the variation was 11° 30′ eaſt, to ſouth latitude 23°, and
caſt longitude 164° 30', where the variation was 11° 4'; for in this run
S 2 of
140 VOYAGE IN SEARCH t [1792.
of 13° 30' of latitude, and 10° 30' of longitude, the compaſs did not vary
a degree; and it is well known that, at ſea, the variation cannot be ob-
ſerved nearer than within a degree of the truth.
17th. A fire kindled by the ſavages, on the Iſle of Pines, was ſeen dur-
ing the night.
At break of day, we obſerved immenſe reefs on the coaſt of New Ca-
ledonia, ſtretching firſt towards the ſouth, and then towards the weſt.
The calm confined us, the whole morning, between thoſe dangerous
rocks and the Iſle of Pines; but in the afternoon, a ſlight breeze from
the ſouth-weſt, enabled us to keep clear of the breakers.
At noon, our latitude was 22° 49' S., and our longitude 164° 40' E.;
the ſouthern point of New Caledonia then bearing N. N. E., diſtant about
20,000 toiſes. This extremity of that iſland is in 22° 30' S. lat. and 164°
30' E. longitude.
18th. We had loſt ſight of the chain of reefs; but about eleven
o'clock we perceived their ſouthern extremity, at the diſtance of about
10,000 toiſes N. W. H. W. Their ſmall diſtance from our ſhip at noon,
when we obſerved our latitude, convinced us that they extended ſome
minutes farther to the ſouthward than Captain Cook believed ; for we
ſaw that they reached 23° of S. lat., and 164° 31' of E. longitude.
Thoſe reefs, to which we approached nearer than the diſtance of 1000
toiſes, are nearly 20,000 toiſes from the coaſt, and in that ſpace keep
the ſea very tranquil: we were obliged to make ſeveral tacks in order
to get out of it.
10th. We made little way in the morning of this day; for at noon,
in 23° 3' 48" of S. lat., and 164° 8' 20" of E. long. we were ſtill in fight
of the weſtern extremity of the reefs, which bore N. W. N. at the diſ-
tance of about 10,000 toiſes. We brought the Cape to bear N. W. # W.
in order to double it, and to approach near the coaſt.
We kept tacking, chiefly under our top-ſails, during the whole night,
endeavouring to keep company with our conſort. It was neceſſary that
we ſhould be able, mutually, to communicate the dangers to which we
might be expoſed, on a coaſt bordered with ſhelves and rocks, hitherto
unexplored by navigators,
JUNE.} OF LA PEROUSE. 14 I
20th. During the night, the currents brought us back to the reefs
which we believed we had doubled. We ſtood towards the land, when
day-light fortunately ſhowed us all the danger of our ſituation. We
were ſurrounded with reefs, and had but little room to beat about. The
wind at ſouth-ſouth-eaſt, freſhened and increaſed the waves, which were
carrying us towards the breakers; and we were in the midſt of the dan-
ger, when the Eſperance pointed it out to us by a ſignal. Roſſel then
commanded on the quarter-deck. Immediately we trimmed up the
ſails on the ſtarboard tack, in order to extricate her from this dangerous
poſition. The Eſperance had ſucceeded in this manoeuvre, and we had
the pleaſure to ſee her clear of the danger, and ſtanding towards the weſt.
Our bell was now rung to ſummon all hands on deck, in order to be
more ſure of ſucceſs. Four times did Roſſel fail in his manoeuvre, and
every attempt did but bring us nearer to the danger. We were driving
towards the reefs, where the waves, ready to ingulph us, roſe to a pro-
digious height. We could not caſt anchor; for no bottom was to be
found with fifty fathoms of line, although we were cloſe to the rocks.
Each of us was looking eagerly for the means of eſcaping death, which
ſeemed almoſt inevitable. A laſt the ſhip touched, when, by unexpected
good fortune, the fifth attempt ſucceeded, and we had the unſpeakable
ſatisfaction of ſeeing the ſhip remove from the danger.
Between the reefs and the land were ſonne little iſlands, diſtant above
5000 toiſes from the coaſt.
The land of New Caledonia, which was low towards its ſouthern ex-
tremity, now began to riſe into mountains of moderate elevation, in a
fouth-eaſt and north-weſt direétion, inclining a little farther towards the
north.
When, at the approach of night, we were going about, the top-men
had forgotten to change the booms of the main-yard, and the mizen
top-ſail yard; and they were both broken, the moment we went upon
the other tack. The firſt fell over-board; but the other, in its fall,
wounded three people, among whom was the Commander of the ex-
pedition.
21ſt.
i 10 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
21ſt. We ſtood out to ſea, and there remained during the night, and
in the morning we ſteercq for the land. A wind at ſouth-eaſt carried us
to the north-weſt, at the diſtance of a ſeven hundred toiſes, from the
reefs, which deny all acceſs to the ſhore, whence they are diſtant by
about 2,500 toiſes. We expected to find ſome opening which would al-
low us to anchor under the ſhelter of this barrier, againſt which the
waves daſhed in a dreadful manner.
A conſiderable body of ſmoke which roſe at the foot of the hill, at a
little diſtance from the ſhore, indicated the preſence of the natives.
From noon, when we found the latitude 22” 6' 58" ſouth, and the lon-
gitude 103° 34' 30" eaſt, we had proceeded nearly 10,000 toiſes to the
north-weſt, when we obſerved, between two reefs a large opening, which
feemed likely to afford us an entrance to an anchoring place near the
ſhore. But unfortunately the day was too far gone, and the ſea too much
agitated, to allow us to ſend a boat to ſound this entrance. We regret-
ted much that we were precluded from enjoying the calm which prevail-
ed behind this rampart, againſt which the waves made unavailing efforts.
Hills, almoſt wholly denuded of vegetation, roſe like an amphitheatre
towards the principal chain of mountains, which appeared to be, at leaſt,
nine hundred toiſes in perpendicular height, and their direction ſtill
towards the north-weſt. We there found three ranges of mountains of
different degrees of elevation, and we obſerved hollows, apparently formed
by the fall of the rains, and which were continued to the ſummits of
the moſt arid mountains.
Behind thoſe high mountains, we ſaw perhaps 20,000 toiſes within
the land, which towered above all the reſt, and appeared to be, at leaſt,
1,200 toiſes in perpendicular elevation.
From the middle of one of thoſe ravines, or hollows, iſſued a torrent
which we diſtinguiſhed perfeótly by the whiteneſs of its foaming waters;
although we were very diſtant from it.
The cold on thoſe heights, undoubtedly render it neceſſary for the na-
tives to warm themſelves. We ſaw many large fires, which they had
kindled, while we beat about the offing in the night.
22d.
JUNE.] OF LA PEROUSE. 1 4 3
22d. On account of the faintneſs of the breeze, we could not make the
reefs till noon, when we found ourſelves in 21° 51' ſouth lat. and 163°
s’ eaſt long. We ſteered along the reefs till night, without finding the
leaſt opening.
New Caledonia preſents a more charming appearance than the Cld
country of that name: for we ſaw ſome trees growing in the bottoms of
the ravines with which thoſe hills are furrowed.
A fire kindled on ſhore, indicated that thoſe arid tracts of land are not
wholly deſtitute of inhabitants. It was not long before we ſaw ſome of
them.
The wind having varied from the north-eaſt to the north and north-
weſt, we brought to, about ten at night. This was not, perhaps, the
moſt prudent manoeuvre in our ſituation; for when danger is near, we
ſhould always be prepared to avoid it. It would certainly have been pre-
ferable to have kept tacking, in order that we might be able to ma-
In Oell Wre conveniently, in caſe any troubleſome incidents had occurred.
23d. We were baffled by the winds all night, and at noon, were only
in lat. 21° 37' S., and long. 162° 47' E.
We ſaw ſome mountains which were covered with trees to the ſum-
mits.
The fires which we obſerved near the ſhore, indicated a great concourſe
of ſavages. They were probably brought together by the appearance of
our ſhip, which was detained by contrary winds, almoſt in the ſame
place.
About three o'clock, being about the diſtance of 35,000 toiſes from the
land, we obſerved, near the beach, a group of twelve Calcdonians, whoſe
looks were direéted towards us, and who ſeemed to be aſtoniſhed at ſeeing
our ſhip, at ſo ſmall a diſtance from their iſland.
Three natives who formed another group, ſtood very near two fires,
which they had kindled. -
By the help of a good ſpy-glaſs, we ſaw that they were entirely naked.
They did not ſeem inclined to come off to us in their canoes. Beſides,
the reefs rendered it impoſſible for them to reach our ſhip.
24th.
144 VOYAGE IN SEARCH • , [1792.
24th. A ſtrong breeze at ſouth-weſt obliged us to tack; and we found
ourſelves almoſt at the ſame place as on the preceding day. The land
was covered with a fog, which had always accompanied ſouth-weſt winds.
We found the ſhip to be in 21° 46' of ſouth latitude, and 162°46’ of eaſt
longitude, when we thought we ſaw between the recſs an opening which
might afford us a paſſage ; but how could we aſcertain that fact, when
the wind was blowing ſo ſtrong a gale 2 *
25th. As ſoon as the wind ſhifted to the ſouth, the fog was entirely
diſſipated. The winds which brought the cold into thoſe latitudes, forced.
the air, when the ſun was withdrawn, to part with the redundant water,
which it had held in ſolution during the day. Hence ſome large drops of
very cold water then fell, at a great diſtance from each other.
For the two laſt days, we had made no conſiderable advances, in
cxploring the coaſt, where we had ſeen many fires, kindled perhaps by
the ſame natives as on the preceding days.
26th, 27th, 28th. We had alſo to ſtruggle with contrary winds, during
the two ſucceeding days; but, on the 28th, a freſh breeze at ſouth-eaſt,
favoured our views in ſtretching along the coaſt. The high mountains,
which we had hitherto ſeen, were exchanged for ſome of a much lower
elevation, and at laſt we thought we had reached the end of the chain;
but farther on, they reſumed nearly the ſame height, and we ſaw the
northern cztremity of the iſland, formed of lofty mountains, which, at
that diſtance, did not appear to differ from thoſe which we had obſerved,
on the preceding days.
At noon, our latitude was 20° 28′ ſouth, , and our longitude 161° 29'
caſt, and we were not backward in obſerving, that near the extremity of
the iſland, the chain of reefs was interrupted, and preſented a large open-
ing, which ſcemed likely to afford us an anchoring place; but the wind
blew too ſtrong to allow us to put out a boat, in order to take the ſound-
ings in this opening. We lay to all night, in hopes that the weather
would be more favourable thc next day.
In the direétion of the land of New Caledonia, we obſerved ſeveral
iſlands ſurrounded with recſs, and connected togethcr by ſand banks and
other ſhoals.
JUNE. OF LA PEROUSE. . 145
º
29th. During the night, the wind had made us fall off ſo much, that
we loſt ſight of the northern extremity of New Caledonia, which we found
to be in 19° 58' ſouth latitude, and 101° 10' eaſt longitude. That iſland
preſents a chain of mountains, extending about eighty nautical leagues,
from the ſouth-eaſt to the north-weſt. Its mean breadth is not more than
ſeven or eight leagues. Captain Cook, who diſcovered it in 1772, only.
ſaw the north-eaſt part of it. The examination of the ſouth-weſt coaſt of
the iſland was an important objećt in navigation. The reefs by which it
is bordered, are generally from 25 to 30,000 toiſes diſtant from the land,
and towards their extremities this diſtance is greatcr, but they are not ſo
broad. That coaſt, extremely dangerous at all times, is rendered ſtill more
ſo by the ſouth-weſt winds, which were remarkably adverſe to us, iii
exploring it.
The ſmall number of fires which we obſerved, and the apparent ſterility
of the land, gave me good reaſon to believe that the iſland was but thinly
inhabited. --
We did not ſee a ſingle canoe, although they might have been managed
with facility, under the ſhelter of the reefs, where the ſea is extremely
tranquil. *
About ſeven o'clock in the morning, we came in fight of many moun-
tainous iſlands and detachcd rocks, ſtretching from N. N. E. to E. N. E.
and which render this extremity of New Caledonia ſtill more dangerous
than the ſouthern part. Some of thoſe iſlands are ſeveral hundred toiſes
in extent. The points of a great number of black rocks were elevated
above the water. Thoſe rocks, ſurrounded by watcr flightly agitated,
feemed thenſelves to be in motion, and, at firſt ſight, we took them for
canoes, floating on the ſurface. We ſoon diſcovered that thoſe little
iſlands were numerous; for they cxtcnded as far as we could ſee from the
maſt head. They are encircled with reefs, amidſt which the ſea aſſumes
the colour of the reddiſh ſand which compoſes its bottom. We had a
near vicw of them ; for, about cleven o'clock, we were but about 1,500
toiſes to the ſouthward of one of thoſe little iſlands, when we ob-
ferved rects cztending from its weſtern point, in the direction of W.
N. W. as far as the cyc could reach.
º
T At
146 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
At the place, where we found our latitude at noon to be 20° 6’ 4” ſouth,
our longitude being 161° 10' 36" eaſt, we had on the eaſt 22° north, a
little iſland, diſtant 1,000 toiſes.
Another iſland bore from us north 80 degrees weſt, at the diſtance
of about 8,000 toiſes. Thoſe two iſlands were connected together by
reefs.
We ſaw other lands, bearing north 28° eaſt.
A fire, on the little iſland neareſt us, not far from a rivulet deſcending
from a mountain, indicated that thoſe little ſpots of land were frequented
by the natives. º -
The ſtrong guſts of wind which blew in the night, would have greatly
embarraſſed us in any other ſituation; but, under ſhelter of the iſlands and
recſs, it was eaſy for us to beat about during the night.
June 30. Some little iſlands towards the eaſt, ſeemed to terminate this
little archipelago. Their elevation gradually diminiſhed, in proportion
to their diſtance from New Caledonia. They ſeemed indeed to be only
a continuation of the mountains of that large iſland; their baſes being
covered by the ſea, and their ſummits riſing above it, and forming ſo
many little iſlands. The gradual diminution of the height of thoſe moun-
tains, makes it reaſonable to ſuppoſe that in thoſe ſeas, ſhoals extending
to a great diſtance, contribute to augment the dangers of navigation. In
the ſequel, we ſhall ſee that this ſuppoſition is by no means deſtitute of
foundation. -
We dire&ted our courſe to the north-weſt, very near the reefs, which
precluded our acceſs to the little iſlands. 4.
The Commander informed the captain of the Eſperance, that in caſ
of ſeparation, the two ſhips ſhould rendezvous at port Pralin or Carteret
harbour.
Our latitude at noon was 19° 28′. 10" ſouth, and our longitude 160°
36' 12" eaſt; the moſt northerly of the little iſlands bearing eaſt, at the
diſtance of 8,000 toiſes.
We came in ſight of a chain of reefs, which extended as far as the eye
could reach, towards N. W. N. in ſome places forming bights, by
faking a weſterly direction. With the wind at E. S. E. it was eaſy for
l].S
July.] OF LA PEROUSE § 47
us to follow all the windings of thoſe rects. In the afternoon, we ſteered
parallel to them for nearly 20,000 toiſes and then thought that we
ſaw their extremity. We were already felicitating ourſelves with hav-
ing terminated this dangerous and troubleſome navigation, and entering
into an open ſca, when the watch announced ſhoals and a ſucceſſion of
reefs, in the direction of N. N. W. It was now too late in the day to in-
tangle ourſelves among them, and we worked to windward during the
night.
A booby, of the ſpecies pelecanus varius, allowed itſelf to be caught about
ſun-ſet. It differed from the ordinary ſpecies, by having a lighter colour.
This bird came, without diſtruſt, and ſat down on the round top, beſide
one of the ſailors. The ſpecies is remarkable for being but little afraid
of man : they will even frequently light on one's arm, when preſented to
them. Their ſenſe of ſmelling muſt not be very ſubtile; for their noſtrils
conſiſt of but two flight chinks in the upper mandible, which is moveable
dike that of the parrot.
3ULY 1ſt. We now believed that we had compleated the ſurvey of this
frightful chain of reefs, which obſtructs the ſea for near 100 marine
Heagues from the S. E. to the N. W.; and we were 10,000 toiſes to the
northward of them, about noon, when we found ourſelves in 18° 50' of
ſouth latitude, and 160° 32' of eaſt longitude.
We next ſteered towards the N. N. E. in order to aſcertain whether
or not thoſe reefs extended to the north-eaſt.
Qne of the crew, called Moulin, about two o'clock in the afternoon,
diſcovered to the northward, at the diſtance of 10,000 foiſes, a little
low iſland covered with very tufted trees, and bordered towards its weſtern
fide, with reefs, cztending towards W. N. W. This iſland, which is not
above 2,500 toiſes in circumference, is ſituated in 18° 31' 10" of
{outh latitude, and in 100° 32' 14" of eaſt longitude.
Agreeable to the promiſe of the General, this iſland was called Moulin's
Iſland, after the man who firſt obſerved it. w
About four o'clock two other little iſlands were deſcried towards
N. W. H. N. diſtant about 8,900 toiſes. As it was impoſſible for us to
T 2 paſs
1.48 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
Paſs thoſe iſlands before night, at five o'clock we directed our courſe to the
S. S. E. and we kept the ſhip's head that way till the morning.
We were ſurrounded during the night with flocks of birds, which inha-
bited thoſe low iſlands. Notwithſtanding the darkneſs, the man-of-war
birds came and hovered over our ſhip, and ſeveral boobies alighted upon
our yards.
2d. The Commander had intended to anchor under the ſhelter of
Moulin's Iſland; but we found ourſelves carried above 5,000 toiſes to
leeward, and it would have been extremely difficult to work up to wind-
ward againſt both wind and current. We therefore ſteered N. N. E.
and it was not long till we obſerved, towards the north, breakers not far
from the two little iſlands, which we had obſerved the preceding day.
We ſteered parallel to them, at the diſtance of about 1,000 toiſes and in
their direction, which was towards the north-weſt. *
From the point where we obſerved our latitude at noon, which was
18° 7' 40" ſouth, our longitude being 166° 32' eaſt, we ſaw the neareſt
reefs, at the diſtance of near 10,000 toiſes to the eaſtward. We continued
to ſteer along them, in the dire&tion of N. W. H. N.
About a quarter paſt one o'clock, we diſcovered, at the diſtance of
nearly 8,000 toiſes towards the eaſt, a low and very woody iſland, which
appeared to us to be at the leaſt 8,000 toiſes in circumference; and it
was ſurrounded with rocks almoſt level with the water. Having the wind
againſt us, we ſteered very near it: the breakers extended towards the
north-eaſt to the eſtimated diſtance of about 8,000 toiſes, and in the
midſt of thoſe reefs, we ſaw black pointcd rocks, ſimilar to thoſe which we
had obſerved before. -
This new iſland is in latitude 18° 3' ſouth, and in longitude 100° 31'
eaſt.
We ſteered towards the north, and about four in the afternoon, we had
the laſt of thoſe rocks to the eaſtward of us, at the eſtimated diſtance of
3,000 toiſes. There thoſe reefs ſeemed to terminate ; appearing to cxtend
towards the caſt, and then towards the ſouth. Their northern extremity
is in 179 547 of ſouth latitude, and 160° 30' of eaſt longitude, and about
ten leagues to the north of Moulin's Iſland.
JULY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 149
It was eaſy for us to perceive, by the force of the waves, that we were
diſengaged from the reefs.
A great number of tropical birds, boobies and man-of-war birds, quit-
ting their retreats in the different little iſlands, came and played in airy
circles about the ſhip, almoſt the whole day. We ſaw the trunks of ſe-
veral cocoa-nut trees floating, which had been torn by the waves from the
place of their growth. -
About ſix in the evening, the lead indicated fifty-cight fathoms
depth of water, with a bottom of fine ſand, our latitude having then been
17° 51' ſouth, and our longitude, 160° 18' eaſt. We remained an hour
upon that bank, where we hove the lead ſeveral times, and had from
fifty to ſixty-ſix fathoms in depth.
Thus we completed the diſcovery of a dreadful chain of reefs, ſo
much the more dangerous towards the north, as they are wholly out of
ſight of land. Although they appeared to us interrupted, to the northward
of New Caledonia, it is probable, notwithſtanding what we obſerved, that
they are re-united farther to the eaſtward.
Thoſe reefs, are well known to be the work of polypi; and the danger
attending them is the more to be dreaded, as they form ſteep rocks co-
vered by the water, and which can only be perceived at a ſmall diſtance. If
a calm take place, and a ſhip be carried towards them by the currents, her
loſs is almoſt inevitable. Vain would be the attempt to ſave her by the
anchor, for it would not reach the bottom, even cloſe to thoſe walls of
coral, which riſe perpendicularly from the depths of the ſea. Theſe works
of the polypus, which, by continually increaſing, obſtruct more and more
the bed of the ocean, may well be ſuppoſed dreadful to navigators; and
many ſhoals which now allow a veſſel to paſs over them, will, at no very
diſtant period, be converted into reefs extremely dangerous to ſhips.
The compaſs experienced but little variation, while we were cruizing
along this immenſe chain of rocks; for at their ſouthern extremity, it
was obſerved, to be 11° caſterly, and it was diminiſhed only two-degrees,
when we had reached their northern extremity,
3d. The next day we ſtceréd N. N. W.; but we ſaw no more breakers.
7th
1 50 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
7th. At half paſt nine P. M. the moon being elevated about 15° above
the eaſtern part of the horizon, we obſerved, in the weſt, a lunar rain-
bow. It differed in nothing from the ſolar rain-bow, except that its co-
lours were not ſo vivid. This phoenomenon is much leſs frequent than
might naturally be expected.
The allowance of water was very ſmall, which was a prodigious hard-
ſhip in latitudes ſo near the Line; and we had not the means of procuring
more; although we were provided with Dočtor Poiſſonnier's apparatus
for diſtilling ſea-water. This contrivance was of no uſe to us, as it re-
quired much more fuel than we could ſpare; for when water is ſcarce on
board ſhip, wood is never abundant.
About ten o'clock A. M. we deſcried the Arſacides, which we made
near Cape Nepean. Thoſe lands, diſcovered in 1707, by Captain Surville,
in the ſervice of the former French Eaſt India Company, were ſince ſeen
by Shortland, who, thinking he had made a new diſcovery, gave them
the name of New Georgia.
Our latitude at noon was 8° 52' ſouth, and our longitude 1540 38' caſt.
The neareſt land then bore E. # N. E. diſtant 15,000 toiſes.
oth. At half paſt four o'clock, we deſcried the rock called Eddy-ſtone,
bearing north-weſt, diſtant about 8,000 toiſes. At a diſtance, we
took it, as Shortland did, for a veſſel under ſail. The deception was the
greater, as the colour of it is nearly that of the ſails of ſhips; but ſome
ſhrubs adorned its upper part. --
The lands of the Arſacides oppoſite to this rock, are ſteep and covered
with large trees to their ſummits.
Scycral fircs kindled on the mountains, indicated the preſence of the
ſavagcs.
Our obſervations aſcertained the ſituation of Cape Nepcan, to be 8°
S. lat. and 15.1° 56' 21" E. long.
The Eddy-ſtone rock is in 8° S. lat. and 15.4° 5' E. long, and conſe-
quently more to the eaſtward of Cape Nepean than Shortland alledges.
We lay to from two o'clock in the morning till day-light.
10th. Early in the morning, we ſaw the Treaſury Iſlands, bearing
N. W.
JULY.] OF LA PEROUSE. | 5 |
N. W. H. N. diſtant 20,000 toiſes. They are ſituated 20 leagues to the
north-weſt of the Eddy-ſtone.
About noon, we were diſtant about 2,500 toiſes from the weſtern
point of the largeſt, and moſt weſterly iſland of that little groupe. It
is in 7° 25' 30" S. lat. and 15.2° 56' 34" E. longitude.
Thoſe iſlands are five or ſix in number, and ſo near together, that at
a diſtance, they appear to form but one iſland, as was believed by Gc-
neral Bougainville, who ſaw them to the weſtward, when paſting through
the channel to which he gave his name. The Eſperance only diſtin-
guiſhed three iſlands: we ſaw five diſtinétly, and, had we been nearer.
we ſhould probably have ſeen more. The mountains which form thoſe
iſlands, are of a moderate clevation, and almoſt every where covered
with large trees. The little groupe occupies a ſpace about ten leagues
in circuit; the eaſt and weſt points being extended into ſhoals.
Afrct having ſailed round them, we ſteered N. N. E. in order to view
the eaſtern part of the iſland of Bougainville. About five o'clock P. M.
we were near its ſouthern extremity, where we eſpied a groupe of ten
little iſlands, the largeſt of which extends from eaſt to weſt. Being co-
vered with large ſpreading trees, interſperſed with palms, thoſe iſlands
preſented an enchanting proſpect. Very near their ſouthern ſide, we
obſerved among them ſome breakers, which rendered it dangerons to ap-
proach them.
Two canoes, in which we diſtinguiſhed a number of natives, were
under ſail, and ſeemed to ſteer towards us; but they paſſed behind the
little iſland neareſt us, and their rapid motion ſoon carried them out of
our ſight. On the beach of the ſame little iſland, we ſaw a company of
ten natives, near a canoe, which lay upon the ſand, and which they did
not attempt to launch, in order to viſit us. As night approached, it was
neccſſary for us to go about, in order to get into the offing.
11th. A violent rain drenched us during the night, and was ſucceeded
by a thick fog, which enveloped the land, and did not permit us to ap-
proach it, till ſome hours after ſun-riſe,
Some
152 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
Some reefs, level with the water, and extending for ſome hundred
toiſes, appeared about eleven o'clock, at the diſtance of 15,000 toiſes
from the ſhore, which they warned us not to approach. -
We ſaw the ſummits of the high mountains of Bougainville iſland
piercing the clouds.
The land was again inveſted with a fog, and we were obliged to wait
till the 13th before we could purſue our examination of the coaſt. *
13th. We enjoyed the beautiful proſpect of the high mountains gently
falling into extenſive plains, where however we obſerved no trace of cul-
tivation. The whole ſcene was covered with trees, even to the higheſt
elevations, which appeared to be at leaſt twelve hundred toiſes in per-
pendicular height, and to be above diſtant twenty thouſand toiſes from
the ſhore. - w º
Fires upon the hills announced the preſence of the natives.
About half-paſt eleven o'clock, we thought ourſelves in the greateſt
ſecurity, when we found the ſhip in ſhoal water, which the watch had not
perceived. It was ſo ſhallow, that we could eaſily diſtinguiſh the fiſhes
upon the rocks, ſome points of which, Jhigher than others, put us in dread
of ſhipwreck cvery inſtant.
We were then in 44 fathoms of water, and the boat, which immedi-
atcly began to ſound different parts of the ſhoal, found only 3 fathoms at
one of its cztremities. The whole bottom was coral. º
Thus we were involved in the moſt imminent dangers, being ſurrounded
on all ſides with ſhoals, which threatened us with the immediate deſtruc-
tion of thc ſhip. ſº
Boats were diſpatched, to ſound the water over the rocks, on each ſide
of us. The leaſt depth they diſcovered was 3 fathoms; ſo that, a ſlight
agitation of the ſea in that placc, might have made us touch the bottom,
and loſe the ſhip.
"Thoſe rocks, like the reefs of New Caledonia, are the work of polypi;
like thoſe reefs they are built perpendicularly, and quite cloſe to them, no
bottom can be found with one hundred fathoms of line. They riſe, like
ſo
JULY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 153
ſo many columns, from the bottom of the ſea, and their progreſſive
augmentation daily increaſes the danger of navigating thoſe parts of the
OCCºlil.
At noon our lat. was 6° 13' 11" S. and our long. 15.2° 7' 51" E. We
brought to, and remained there till two o'clock.
Several trunks of trees floated alongſide. On one of thoſe which the
boats brought, we obſerved a very old notch, which ſhewed that the inha-
bitants of the neighbouring iſland are in poſſeſſion of inſtruments which
cut very clean. Perhaps they ſtill retain ſome of the axes, which General
Bougainville gave them.
We drove inſenſibly towards a ſhoal; but we ſaw it in good time and
avoided it.
Though the watches were ordered to redouble their attention, we
found ourſelves about half paſt three upon another ſhoal, which it was
neceſſary for us to clear like the firſt, at the riſk of ſeeing the veſſel drive
againſt the rocks. There was the ſame depth of water as before. The
ſurge was rendered very ſtrong by this bank of coral.
Our poſition was the more dangerous, as night approached, and thoſe
ſhoals being at ſome diſtance from the coaſt, gave us reaſon to apprehend
that we ſhould meet with others ſtill farther off. How were we to avoid
them, during the darkneſs of the night We muſt truſt to chance the
ſecurity of our ſhip. We brought to, till day light, the ſhip's head to
the ſouth-weſt, and we frequently ſounded without finding any bottom.
14th. The Eſperance, about three o'clock in the morning, madc ſignals,
which produced a lively ſenſation on board of our ſhip. We believed
that they indicated ſome danger; but they were merely intended to give
us notice that ſhe had ſoundings, in forty-two fathoms. We ſtood off a
little from the land, and at day-light ſteered cloſe along ſhore. The chain
of mountains then began to ſubſide.
Some little iſlands, detached from Bougainville Iſland, were conneéted
together by reefs, on which we ſaw the waves beating. But theſe were
not the only dangers on that coaſt : ſunken rocks formed ſhoals, which
followed the ſame direction. Thoſe coral banks were doubtleſs covered
U | with
| 54 VOYAGE IN SEATCH 93.
g over them 11 ºf C,
with fiſh ; for we ſaw many ſea-birds hovering
their prey.
A carioc, manned by ſix natives, was behind the littic iſlan, is tº
neareſt to our ſhip ; but, as we were making great way, we ve. ºn
pafled them.
That part of Bougainville Iſland which was now in fight, ſeen). -
bc much more populous than what we had hitherto ſeen. The fine
plantations of cocoa-nut trees which bordered the coaſt, left us no room
to doubt that the population was very conſiderable.
At noon, in latitude 5° 43' 12" ſouth, and longitude 15.2° 3' 26" eaſt,
we ſaw Bougainville Iſland, forming, with the little adjoining iſlands, a
bay not leſs than 15,000 toiſes in extent. The General intended to an-
chor there ; but ſhoals obſerved in different points of its entrance, and a
ſand-bank near its farther extremity, made him change his reſolution.
Bougainville Iſland terminates in very low lands, and we ſoon had
ſight of the narrow channel which ſeparates it from Bouka Iſland.
After ſtanding off, we lay to all night.
The heat of the day had accumulated the materials of thunder above
the high mountains. Frequent flaſhes of lightning diſcovered to us their
ſummits, and the thunder rattled with a tremendous noiſe.
During the night the current had carried us more than twenty minutes
towards the north. At fix in the morning we were 5,000 toiſes to the
northward of Bouka Iſland. The vaſt plantations of cocoa-nut trees
which adorned its ſhores, indicated a numerous population.
A canoe, with nine natives on board, put off, and ſteered towards us.
We immediately hove to in order to receive them ; but they ſtopped
within three hundred toiſes of thc ſhip, and ſhowing us their iſland,
made ſigns to invite us on ſhore. There were but ſeven paddlers in the
canoe; two other natives ſeemed wholly occupied in baling out the wa-
ter, which beat over the ſides of the canoc, and in obſerving our move-
mentS.
A native put off alone from the beach, on a caſimarran, and paddling
with the greateſt celerity, came and joined the canoe, which kept always
to
JULY.] OF LA PIEROUSE. I 55
*
to the windward of us. Though a very old man, he appeared to be ſtill
very robuſt. After having viewed us for ſome minutes, he plied towards
the iſland, as rapidly as he had come off. He appeared to be a meſſenger
diſpatched by the inhabitants, to make his obſervations, and to report
to them what he had ſeen.
The canoe left us, and proceeded towards the Eſperance, another very
large one having been already alongſide of her.
- We ſaw at ſome diſtance a ſmall canoe, manned by five natives, who
came a-ſtern of our ſhip, and kept at the diſtance of about 500 toiſes,
notwithſtanding all our invitations to them to come on board.
In hopes of alluring thoſe ſavages, we let down into the water a plank,
with ſome knives and nails upon it, and a bit of ſcarlet ſtuff by way of a
flag, tied to a ſtick placed upright in its centre. They did not, how-
ever, ſeize upon thoſe objects, till we cut the ſtring which kept it nearer
to the ſhip than they choſe to venture. The fight of the bit of ſtuff dif-
fuſed among them the moſt lively joy: they ſhowed us that they had ac-
cepted of our preſent, and earneſtly deſired more of the ſame fort.
At laſt, by throwing them handkerchiefs, bits of red ſtuff, and empty
bottles, we ſucceeded in bringing them alongſide. One of the bottles
having taken in ſome ſea-water, the ſavage who took it up, thinking
perhaps that we had ſent him ſomething good to drink, was diſagreeably
miſtaken on taſting the contrary, and we regretted that we had not
given him timely notice of the circumſtance.
Thoſe natives were acquainted with the method of barter, and took
much pains to ſhow us the price of their goods.
We received a very fine bow and ſome arrows, in cºchange for a few
handkerchiefs, which we let down to them by a rope. As they did not
obſerve that we poſſeſſed this kind of weapon, they endeavoured to make
us ſenſible of its value, by ſhowing us its uſe.
One of the gunncrs went for his fiddle, and played them ſome tunes;
and we had the pleaſure to ſee that they were not inſenſible to muſic.
They offered us a number of things in exchange for the inſtrument,
making ſigns for it, by imitating the motions of the fiddler upon a paddle.
U 2 But
156 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
But they ſoon found that their ſolicitations were fruitleſs. It was the
only fiddle by which the ſhip's company danced ; and we had too long
a voyage before us, to think of parting with the inſtrument, which pro-
cured us an exerciſe ſo ſalutary to ſeamen.
We had ſo loaded them with preſents, that they ſoon began to make
difficulties in giving their commodities in exchange for ours, to procure
which they had recourſe to unfair arts. The Commander had agreed
to give them ſome handkerchiefs ſtriped with red, their favourite colour,
for a bow, and truſting too much to their good faith, had delivered
them the handkerchiefs: but inſtead of the bow, they would only give
ſome arrows, which were refuſed.
Thoſe natives ſeemed to have a great propenſity to gaiety. They
ſeemed to take pleaſure in repeating the words which they heard us pro-
nounce ; and the ſweetneſs of their language enabled them eaſily to ſuc-
ceed in the imitation. e *g
They were paſſionately fond of muſic, and particularly of the moſt
briſk and noiſy tunes. One of the officers, who was a good performer,
played a very lively tune. They liſtened with very great attention;
aſtoniſhment was viſible in their features; they could not conceal the
pleaſure they felt; but, by different motions of their arms, which kept
exact time with the meaſure, and a great agitation of the whole body,
they gave unequivocal proofs of their ſenſibility.
They did not loſe fight of the deſire which the Commander had ex-
preſſed for a bow. One of them promiſed him a bow in exchange for a
hat; but when he got poſſeſſion of the hat, he refuſed to ſurrender the
bow.
Moſt of the things which we gave them were tied to the end of a line,
which they were not at the pains to looſe; for they carried in their gir-
dles, ſhells which were fufficiently ſharp to cut it at once.
As we had good reaſon to diſtruſt thcir promiſes, a man went down
by a rope ladder aſtern, with a view to cxchange a bit of red ſtuff for a
bow, when we perceived that thc current had carried us to the north-
weſt, and that we were already too near the ſhore. As a calm prevented
U1S
JULY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 157
us from ſteering the ſhip, we were obliged to put out a boat in order to
tow her off. The ſavages thinking, no doubt, that we intended to pur-
ſue them, in order to puniſh them for their diſhoneſty, retreated preci-
pitately towards the iſland. Out of gratitude, perhaps, for the patience
with which we allowed them to cheat us, they committed no ſuch act of
treachery as General Bougainville, in his voyage round the world, had ex-
perienced at their hands.
Four canoes were, all this while, dealing with the Eſperance. One of
them was manned by natives, of whom ſixteen were paddlers, and the
reſt warriors.
We learned from the people on board the Eſperance, that this war-
canoe had long kept at a diſtance; but ventured to come alongſide, on
ſeeing the different articles which their countrymºn in the little canoes
had procured.
The order with which the ſavages were ſtationed in the great canoe,
indicated a kind of naval tačtics. A warrior, armed with a bow and ar-
rows, ſtood between every two paddlers on each ſide, and intermcdiate
parties of two or three warriors ſtood with their faces towards the ſtern
of the canoe, in order to obſerve the movements in that direction, and to
fight while retreating. Thoſe warriors ſhowed no hoſtile diſpoſition;
they ſeemed very fond of the wine and brandy which was given to them,
but did not eat bacon, without a degree of repugnance.
Thoſe ſavages had excellent teeth, and found no difficulty in maſticat-
ing the hardeſt biſcuits which were offered to them.
Could thoſe natives have had any communication with the Engliſh and
the Spaniards One of them, on ſhowing us an arrow, which he was
going to tie to the end of one of our ſtrings to convey it on board, pro-
nounced, very diſtinétly, the Engliſh word arrow. Another, ſhowing us
the land, and inviting us to it, made uſe of the Spaniſh word tierra.
We learned from the Eſperance, that ſeveral of them pronounced the
word Boiſka, the name which General Bougainville gave to their iſland.
This word, which in the Malayan language is the expreſſion of negation,
and which, when the firſt ſyllable is pronounced long, ſignifies to open,
doubtleſs
I 5S - VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
doubtleſs ſeems to indicate ſome analogy with the Malayan ; from which,
however, it differs ſo much, that one of the ſhip's company, who ſpoke
language fluently, could not underſtand thoſe natives.
The value which they ſeemed to affix to nails, and the other articles
of hardware which we gave them, ſhowed that they were acquainted
with the uſe of iron.
The colour of their ſkins is blackiſh. They are of a middling ſtature;
and being naked, their diſtinétly marked muſcles indicated great ſtrength.
Their figure though not very agreeable, is extremely expreſſive. Their
heads are very big ; their foreheads broad, like the reſt of their faces,
which are very flat, eſpecially under the noſe; their chins large and pro-
minent; their cheeks full, their noſes flat, their mouths very large, and
their lips very thin.
The betel, which gives a bloody tint to their large mouths, adds to the
uglineſs of their appearance.
Their ears are loaded with large rings made of ſhells, the weight of
which contributed to the large ſize of thoſe organs. Some had red and
white ſtreaks traced upon their bodies; and we obſerved one whoſe hair
and noſe were ſprinkled with a red earth, which appeared to be ochre.
Some had bracelets formed of the fibres of the cocoa-nut huſk.
Their hair was curled, thick and bulky, like that of many Papows,
whom we afterwards met with.
They are in the practice of plucking the hair from every part of the
body. There was but one ſeen, on board the Eſperance, who allowed
his beard to grow.
All of them had their loins girded with a cord, which went ſeveral
times about the body, and ſeemed only deſigned as a point of ſupport, to
increaſe the muſcular ſtrength of thoſe parts. One of them, pro'ºbly
with a ſimilar view, had his lef arm tied in three dºercnt places, o' ºr the
biceps muſcle ºne flat bits of wood, on the outſide of the arm, ſupport-
ing the ſtral . . t the Cord.
Thoſe ſavages appeared to handle the bow with much addreſs. One
of them brought on board the Eſperance, a booby, which he had brought
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st LY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 159
down with an arrow ; and the fatal wound was ſeen in the belly of the
bird. -
The induſtry of thoſe iſlanders ſeemed to be particularly dire&ted to the
fabrication of their arms, which were formed with great care. We al-
mired the ſkill with which they had coated their bow-ſtrings with a re-
finous ſubſtance, which gave them, at firſt ſight, the appearance of cat-
gut. The middle of the ſtring was done round with bark, in order tº
ſave it from wear, by giving the impulſe to the arrow. The inferior patt
of the arrows was very light, being formed of the ſtalk of the ſacchar//
ſpontaneum ; and the other part conſiſted of very hard wood, well pointed.
The joining is ingeniouſly faſtened with about thirty turns of bark, as is
alſo the part of the arrow which bears upon the ſtring, to give it the greater
ſolidity.
Their canoes, formed of ſeveral planks, ingeniouſly joined together,
are of a ſhape at once elegant, and adapted for a quick motion. Sce
Plate XLIII.
At the approach of night, a current ſetting to the N. N. W. commu-
nicated to the tide a rippling motion, ſo like the effect of a ſhoal, that it
might have deceived the moſt experienced eye. The boat was ſent to
ſound, but no bottom was found with twenty-ſix fathoms of line.
During the night, violent thunder claps diſſipated the thick clouds
which cnveloped the ſummits of the mountains, while we ſteered S. S. W.
in order, iſ poffible, to ſtem the currett.
We had now explored the weſtern Cºaſt of thoſe two iſlands, as General
Bougainville had their eaſtern parts, when he firſt diſcovered them.
The noſt caſterly, which is at the ſame time the moſt ſoutherly, point
of Bougainville Iſland, is in latitude 7° 4' 50" S. and in longitude 153s
18 3.1" E.
The northern point, called Point Laverdy, is in 5° 3 S. lat, and in
152 31' E. long. - -
The coral banks, which we diſcovered off Bougainville Iſland, arc ſitu-
ated in 0 1 1/ S. lat., and 15.2° 2' E. long.
The north point of the iſland of Bouka, is in 5° 5' 30"S, lat. and
152° 0' E. long. - The
160 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
The eaſterly variation of the compaſs diminiſhed till it came to 7° 30'.
The currents along the coaſt, carried us conſtantly from 8 to 10' to
the north-weſt every day. *
The thermometer did not riſe above 22°, although we were ſo near
the Equator.
16th. At ſun-riſe we had ſight of a flat iſland, to which Carteret has
given the name of Sir Charles Hardy, ſtretching from north 15° eaſt, to
north 22° 30′ eaſt, diſtant about 15,000 toiſes. It is ſituated 25,000
toiſes N. N. W. of the iſland of Bouka.
About one in the afternoon, we came in ſight of Cape Saint George, on
the ſouth-eaſt of New Ireland, bearing W. N. W., diſtant about 20,000
toiſes. It was found to be in 40 54' 30" S. lat. and 150° 30' E. longi-
tude.
We worked to windward, by tacking, all the night.
17th. At day-break we ſteered for Carteret harbour, where we could not
ſtop to anchor. Leaving the iſland of Marteaux about 25,000 toiſes on the
ſtarboard, we ſteered ſo as to paſs very near the Booby rocks, leaving
Laig Iſland on the larboard, and we arrived between the iſland of Cocos
and New Ireland, where we came to an anchor, about half paſt one
o'clock P. M. in thirty-two fathoms of water, the bottom being very ſoft
black mud, mixed with calcareous ſand. We were about 200 toiſes from
the iſland of Cocos.
The north-weſt point of New Ireland bore weſt 120 north, "diſtant
about 25,000 toiſes, and the ſouth-eaſt point of the ſame iſland bore
fouth 31° eaſt, at the ſame diſtance.
The middle of the paſſage, on the north-weſt of Carteret harbour, bore
w cºſt 10° north. \
At the diſtance of about fifty toiſes from the iſland of Cocos, we
would have been in a harbour well defended on all ſides. There is
anchorage at a very ſmall diſtance from the land; for about ten toiſes from
the ſhore there are five fathoms of water, and, as the diſtance increaſes,
the depth increaſcs very rapidly.
We went on ſhore, on the iſland of Cocos, to paſs the reſt of the day.
That
JULY.] OF H.A. PEROUSE, } 61
That little iſland, the higheſt part of which is not above ſeventy-five
toiſes above the level of the ſea, is formed of very white calcareous
ſtones. Having riſen from under the water, time has not much altered
the form of the madrepores, which enter into its compoſition. They
may be traced even on the rocks, which are the moſt expoſed to the in-
juries of the air. The iſland is terminated on the ſouth-eaſt, and on the
north-weſt, by the ſame kind of ſtones. About mid-way between it and
Laig Iſland, there is ſufficient depth to allow ſhips a paſſage.
A great quantity of rain having fallen in the night, there aroſe ſo much
humidity out of the woods, as formed clouds every inſtant, which origi-
nating chiefly in the loweſt places, reſembled, at firſt fight, the ſmoke of
fires kindled in the foreſt, and as ſoon as they had acquired ſufficient ele-
vation to be expoſed to the current of air, they preſently diſappeared.
Large trees, which always preſerve their verdure, cover the iſland of
Cocos. Though their roots find little vegetable mould among the cal-
careous ſtones, between which they penetrate, yet, in that moiſt ſituation,
they flouriſh very luxuriantly. It was a pleaſant ſpectacle to ſee the fine
tree, known by the name of barringtonia ſpecioſa, attracted by the hu-
midity, extend its branches horizontally a great way over the ſea. That
iſland produces fig-trees of different ſpecies; and we expected to find
there abundance of cocoa-nuts. This expectation was indeed one reaſon
for our preferring this anchoring place to ſeveral others at no great diſ-
tance. But we found it difficult to procure even a dozen of thoſe nuts.
We ſaw, with concern, that ſome of the party, who had been ſent on
ſhore for wood, had allowed themſelves to cut down the cocoa-nut trees
for the ſake of the fruit. They carefully ſearched for the young leaves
on the tops of the trees, which are very tender, and afforded very agree-
able refreſhment to people who had lived long on ſalted proviſions. If
we had permitted them, they would not have left a cocoa-nut tree in the
iſland; and that anchorage would have been deprived, perhaps for ever,
of a reſource cxtremely agreeable to navigators. +
The night overtook us, when in the middle of the wood, and we were
entertained with the charming ſpectacle of a prodigious number of glow
- X WOrnys,
162. VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
worms, which diffuſed ſo much brightneſs as to dazzle, rather than en-
lighten us.
It was the time at which the ſpecies of crab called cancer rurícola,
leaves the holes which it digs. On our way to the place where the boat
was waiting for us, we trod upon ſeveral of them, and ſome of our party,
before they knew what animal it was, were apprehenſive that it was ſome
venomous reptile. s
18th. The next day I viſited the ſouth-eaſt part of the iſland; but
vines of different kinds prevented me from penetrating far into the foreſts.
Different ſpecies of the epidendrum adorned the trunks of the largeſt
trees, and grew in the midſt of a great number of ferns equally paraſitical.
We obſerved, floating along the ſhore, the fruits of ſeveral ſpecies of
the pandanus, of the barringtonia ſpecioſa, and of the heritiera, which
ſtretched their branches, and even their trunks, in a very remarkable
manner, over the waters of the ſea.
Two of our men who followed me ſaw an alligator cloſe to the ſhore,
on the ſouth-eaſt extremity of the iſland of Cocos. But I do not believe
that thoſe animals are very common there; for, during the whole time
that we lay at anchor, no accident happened, though a great number of
our people were in the habit of bathing.
Near the eaſtern extremity of this little iſland, I obſerved ſeveral kinds
of nautili, diſſeminated amidſt the prodigious quantity of lithophites,
which entered into its compoſition.
The abundance and continuance of the rains were aſtoniſhing. It was
an inceſſant torrent of tepid water, which, however, did not hinder us
from viſiting the environs of the anchoring place. \ -
I landed ſeveral days ſucccſſively, on the iſlands of Cocos and Laig.
The number of inſcóts of different forms and colours was truly aſtoniſh-
ing; and the rains did not appear to diminiſh their activity. They were
chiefly coleopteras, which it was difficult to catch. The moſt varied ſpecies
bclonged to the genus ciciudela fabr.
We were entertained with the pleaſant view of different ſpecies of fig-
trees, from the top branches of which depended a great number of ra-
dicles,
JULY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 163
Jº
dicles, ſoon to be transferred to the ſoil, and to give birth to ſo many
different trees.
The palm cycas circinalis hath multiplied greatly in the ſhallows, un-
der the ſhade of the great trees. We obſerved near them, an arbour
newly conſtrućted with branches, where the natives had been repoſing,
and had left the fragments of a repaſt they had made on the fruit of the
cycas, the kernels of which, if eater, without preparation, are a powerful
emetic, as ſeveral of our ſhip's company experienced ; but the ſavages
had roaſted them, as we obſerved the marks of fire on a great number of
the huſks. *
The kernel of the fruit of the cycas circinalis, is very bitter. The in-
habitants of the Moluccas know how to put it to a better uſe, than thoſe
of New Ireland, as I had occaſion to obſerve, towards the end of this
voyage. Experience had taught them, that maceration freed it from its
hurtful qualities; and the ſame proceſs may alſo ſucceed with many other
fruits and roots, which, in this manner, may be rendered uſeful, as food
for animals and even for man.
There lay on the ground, a great number of the fruits of the cycas,
which the ſavages had not touched. Their ſucculent huſk, which dif-
fuſed an odour, like that of the fineſt apple, contains fermentative par-
ticles ſufficient to produce a good ſpirituous liquor. Thoſe fruits abound
there, and may be uſeful to navigators.
Among the large trees which grow on the iſland of Cocos, I obſerved,
with ſurprize, a new ſpecies of arec, the trunk of which was above
eighteen toiſes in height, and its thickneſs throughout, not more than
three inches. It was difficult for us to conceive how a tree, ſo weak it.
ſº appearance, could ſupport itſelf to ſo great an elevation ; but our aſtoniſh-
ment ceaſed, when we attempted to cut one down. Its wood was ſo very
hard, as to refift, for ſome title, the moſt forcible ſtrokes of the axe. A
great quantity of interlaced (amilacée) ſubſtance, under the form of pith,
occupied its centre, a circumſtance common to many other trees.of the
ſame genus. This pith taken out of the trunk, left a cylinder, the wood
X 2 of
164 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
i
of which did not exceed four-tenths of an inch in thickneſs, and was of a
fine black colour. The fruit of this new ſpecies of arec is red, ſcarcely
larger than a common olive, and nearly of the ſame ſhape.
The caryota urens was one of the large trees of thoſe foreſts. Among
the number of ſhrubs, were ſeveral ſpecies of the dracaena. Among the
large trees, I admired a ſolanum, certainly the higheſt ſpecies of that
genus; thoſe hitherto known to botaniſts, being only herbs or feeble
ſhrubs. The leaves of this are oval, hard and very ſmooth.
That fine tree, the tedioma grandis, ſo valuable for ſhip-building, grows
at Carteret harbour. I alſo ſaw there different ſpecies of the guettarda,
and a new ſpecies of hermandia. - t
Moſſes and ferns were very numerous, and grew with the greateſt
luxuriance, in thoſe humid ſituations.
The weſtern ſhore of the Iſland of Cocos is precipitous, and very much
elevated above the level of the ſea. The calcareous ſtones, of which it
is compoſed, being much expoſed to the injuries of the weather, are
very friable, I found there the nutmeg-tree, which Rumphius has de-
ſcribed, under the denomination of myriſtica mas (Rumph. Amb. vol. 2.
tab. 5.) The fruit was then but young. It is more elongated than that
of the ſpecies which is cultivated.
Some ſavage muſt certainly have periſhed among thoſe rocks, for I
found a human ſkeleton almoſt entire.
Near to that was a place where I ſaw the remains of a fire, which had
been kindled by the natives who frequent that coaſt.
The continual rains at Carteret harbour, have rendered ſome ſpecies of
ſpiders very induſtrious. They conſtruct excellent places of ſhelter, in the
middle of their webs, conſiſting of a ſnug fabric, in the ſhape of a COrnet
of paper, four-fifths of an inch in height, and one-fifth of an inch broad
in the baſe, with its top clevated and a little inclined towards the ſouth-
eaſt, in order that the prevailing winds may have the leſs force on this
little habitation. The rain glides off this kind of conc, without being
able to enter it, or to preſs it down, being ſtretched on all ſides by threads
faſtenca.
July.] OF LA PEROUSE. 165
faſtened to the neighbouring branches. The ſpider, being perfeótly
ſheltered in this habitation, never leaves it, but to ſeize the inſects which
fall into her toils.
Another ſort of ſpider which is a leſs produćtive ſpinſter than the for-
mer, protećts herſelf from the rain under a piece of a leaf bent into a form
almoſt conical, which ſhe places in the centre of her web. Every pre-
caution is taken to give ſolidity to her habitation, the point of which
is oppoſed to the ſouth-eaſt wind, in order that it may be the leſs affected
by its impulſe.
Nature hath done every thing for other ſpecies of ſpiders, which are
covered with very hard ſkins, and as ſmooth as if they were coated with
the fineſt varniſh. Thoſe ſuffer no inconvenience from the great rains
to which they are conſtantly expoſed, and they wait patiently in the
middle of their net, for the inſects which form their prey.
Among thoſe ſpiders, I found ſome, the bodies of which terminated
in points: the aranea aculeata, and the aramea ſpinoſa.
The iſland of Laig, being much leſs than that of Cocos, preſents fewer
produćtions. The land of it is of the ſame nature, but much leſs ele-
vated.
The precipitous mountains of New Ireland, which border upon Carte-
ret harbour, are at leaſt, three times as high as thoſe of the iſland of
Cocos. The marine productions, of which they are partly compoſed,
are obſervable, in the ſame manner, even on their ſummits.
On the 23d I landed on New Ireland, N. N. W. of the anchoring
place, and near the place whence our ſhip received her water. The ſtrean
which furniſhed it, was viſible only near the ſea. Farther inland, we
faw the channel of a torrent, along which, in different places, were ca-
vities filled with water, which filtrating through the ſand, formed the
little brook which ſupplied the watering-place. After an hour's walk
along its banks, we came to a beautiful caſcade, which it follºwed, by
daſhing from the high calcareous rocks, in which we obſerved vaſt grot-
toes, which ſerved as retreats for large bats, of the ſpecies denominated
vºſhertilio vampyrus.
Some wild bread-fruit trees grew in thoſe places.
166 VOYAGE IN SEARCH T1792.
At a time when Carteret harbour was inundated with continual rain, I
was aſtoniſhed to ſee only the channel of a torrent without any water;
but it appeared to me, that the rain did not extend far enough inland to
fill it. Of this it was eaſy to be convinced, by the ſerenity of the ſky to-
wards the ſouth-weſt, while at the anchoring-place, the rain fell with-
out intermiſſion. Carteret harbour forms a ſort of baſin, where the
clouds, loaded with water, after paſſing over the high mountains of New
Ireland, experience a calm which hinders the air from ſupporting them.
Hence reſult thoſe exceſſive rains which render the anchoring-place far
from deſirable to navigators. n
Among the little plants, which grow in the ſhade 6f the foreſts, I ob-
ſerved ſeveral ſpecies of the procris.
Beſides the nutmeg-trees of which I have already ſpoken, nature hath
furniſhed the inhabitants of New Ireland with the ſpecies of pepper,
known to botaniſts, by the name of piper cubebe, which I obſerved adorn-
ing the baſes of the large trees, through a very extenſive ſpace.
Our boat was ſent a fiſhing on the coaſt of New Ireland, about 5,000
toiſes to the ſouth-eaſt. There were obſerved ſome habitations, which
had been newly and very ingeniouſly conſtructed by the natives, who
were not contented with the roaſted fruit of the cycas circinalis; for the
remains of ſhell-fiſh were ſeen near thoſe cottages. -
24th. When the Commander anchored in Cartcret harbour, he in-
tended to remain there at leaſt fifteen days; but the czceſſive rains made
him reſolve to leave it much ſooner. e º
The greateſt ačtivity had been been exerted in procuring our comple-
ment of wood and water; and on the morning of the 24th we had made
cvery preparation for ſetting ſail.
The water which we took in at Carteret harbour was very good, and
procured with great facility, by means of wooden ſpouts, which con-
veyed it into the boat, with no other trouble than lifting it three fect
lower than the ſpout. -
Our wood was cut in thc Iſland of Cocos, and the conveyance of it
was the more eaſy, as the boat could come clºſe to the beach. It is
proper to remark, that the wood, which we outained at Carteret har-
JULY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 167
bour, introduced into the ſhip a prodigious number of ſcorpions and ſco-
lopendrae, of the ſpecies called ſcolopendra motſitans, inſects which very
much incommoded us *.
It was to no purpoſe, that we ere&ted the obſervatory on the iſland of
Cocos; for the inceſſant rains did not allow us to make a ſingle obſerva-
tion. It is difficult to form a proper idea of theſe exceſſive rains, which
poured down in an almoſt uninterrupted torrent.
The thermometer, obſerved at noon, while we lay at anchor, varied
from 19° to 21°; and the barometer only from 28 inches I 7-1 oth lines,
to 28 inches 1 2-1 oth lines.
Our ſhip lay at anchor in 4° 48' 10" S. lat., and 150° 25' 40" E. long.
This harbour afforded us no refreſhments; and we were unſucceſsful in
fiſhing. •
The tides took place but once a day, and roſe only about ſix feet,
C H A P. VII.
Departure from Cartaret Harbour—On that ºccaſion the Eſherance lºſs dº;
Anchor—Paſſage through St. George's Cºmicſ—ſº of the Port/a/.../
Iſlands—Different Interviews with the Natives of the Admiral'ſ ſaid:
—Their fantaſtical Fiſhion–Dºſho ºn of their Cº ºf—Cºlors–1/lo-
niſhing rapidity of their Motion—ſ to of ſile Hermit Iſlands—Their In-
habitants—Piew of the Exchey” Iſlands—4 Nºv lººd—ſ if iter
Spout— 7ew of New Guinea— ſage ºrogh Pitt Stra'ſ-Singular
*...* – * r º Y * * * * * -> . * f 4. * f : º ºf . , , , ,- " ; ; ,
Eff. As of the Tides—Rava, s ºf ſhe Scitry—inchor at .mºgyº.
*N the 24th of July about 11 A. M. we ſet ſail from Carteret har-
$º * * -
bour, and took advantage of a geºtle breeze at ſo th–eaſt, to paſs
through the north-weſt opening, between Cocos liland and New ireland.
* The harbouring of ſuch noxious and abominable reptiles, is a "li, obječion againſt
the wainſcouting of houſes in tropical climates, which is afterwards tacitly recomnicaded
by the author.—Tranſlator.
168; * VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792,
The current ſet to the W. N. W. and at noon we were 5,000, toiſes.
W. N. W. of our anchoring place.
The Eſperance, not having hove up her anchor in time to profit by this.
breeze, a calm ſucceeded almoſt as ſoon as ſhe ſet her ſails, and the cur-
rent drove her towards the breakers, on the ſtarboard of her paſſage out of
the harbour. She was therefore obliged to caſt anchor, and wait for a
wind, to extricate her from this dangerous ſituation.
We lay to, in hopes that ſhe would ſoon rejoin us; but it was half an
hour paſt four before ſhe could overtake us. The captain then told us
that he was in danger of being wrecked at the entrance of the harbour
which we had quitted. Having been forced by the current to come to
an anchor on a coral bottom, the cable had been cut by the rocks, at the
moment when a breeze ſprang up at ſouth-eaſt, and carried them from
the rocks. They had come too near them to caſt a ſecond anchor with
advantage ; and the frigate quitted the ſtation with the loſs of an anchor,
and three fathoms of cable.
Our poſition now enabled us to obſerve, that the channel of St. George
is not more than 30,000 or 35,000 toiſes in breadth, at its ſouthern ex-
tremity. The obſcurity of the weather appears to have led Carteret into
the crror, of ſuppoſing its breadth almoſt double of what we found it.
We tried during the night, and the current carried us into St. George's
channel, at the rate of 2,500 toiſes in the hour. -
About one o'clock in the morning the Iſle of Man bore W. S. W.,
diſtant 5,000 toiſes.
A very thick fog concealed from us, all day, the lofty mountains of
New Ireland. But their ſummits appeared from time to time, and we
had fight of mountains towards the centre of that iſland, at leaſt 1,000
toiſes in perpendicular elevation. We obſerved large trees even on
the higheſt of their peaks.
At four in the afternoon we lay to, with an intention to explore Sand-
wich Iſland the next day. But the currents hurried us along with ſuch
rapidity during the night, that at day break, when we were ſetting the
fails, we were aſtoniſhed to find ourſelves not more than two hundred
toiſés from that iſland. ºr
*
JULY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 16g
The watch had probably been aſleep; for we received no intimation
that the current was driving us upon the coaſt; which, however, even at
that ſmall diſtance, happily preſented no danger.
The iſland of Sandwich has no conſiderable elevation. Like New
Ireland, it was covered with trees; and ſome old trunks, after loſing part
of their branches, were ſcattered here and there upon the little hills.
Being covered with paraſite plants, they looked like columns adorned
with garlands, and added greatly to the pictureſque appearance of that
charming iſland. -
The part of New Ireland too, which lies oppoſite to Sandwich Iſland,
preſents-a tract but little elevated. There aroſe, however, in the middle
of a vaſt plain, ſome little hills which might be 200 or 250 toiſes in
perpendicular height.
The north-weſt part of Sandwich Iſland terminates in ſeveral points
or ſlips of land, advanced into the ſea. We diſtinguiſhed five principal
ones; and near the baſe of one of them, is a peaked hill, which is the high-
eſt land in the iſland; although its perpendicular altitude does not ex-
ceed 200 or 250 toiſes, and conſequently it is much leſs elevated than
Captain Carteret alledges. The clearneſs of the weather, and the near
approach we made to this little mountain, enabled us to judge of its cle-
vation.
Some huts in the ſhade of the woods of cocoa-nut trees, made us hope
for an interview with the inhabitants of Sandwich Iſland; but it was,
doubtleſs too early in the morning for them to pay us a viſit, for we did
not ſee a ſingle individual.
The moſt weſterly point of that iſland is in 2° 50' 26" S. lat. and 1489
29' 15" E. longitude. Its greateſt length, from E. S. E. to W. N. W. is
15,000 toiſes.
At its weſtern point we obſerved a little iſland, which Carteret had not
perceived. 4.
Ten days had elapſed without our having had an opportunity of obſerv-
ing the paſſage of the ſun over the meridian; but on the 26th of July, we
found our latitude at noon to be 2° 50'29" S., and our longitude 1.48° 10'
50" E.; and we were cnabled to determine the fituation of the northern,
Y and
if G * VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
and moſt weſterly point of New Ireland, which was in 2° 44' 30 S. lat.,
and 140° 11' 30" E. longitude. The obſcurity of the weather muſt
have occaſioned the error of Carteret, who placed it above 10,000 toiſes
farther to the north.
About four o'clock in the evening, we were diſtant about 1,500
toiſes from a great number of little iſlands, ſituated at the entrance of
the channel which ſeparates New Ireland from New Hanover; and
we obſerved that the paſſage between thoſe iſlands was obſtructed by
reefs.
New Ireland is terminated by low lands.
New Hanover, towards the north-weſt, preſents a flat ſurface, while
its centre is occupied by a chain of very high mountains, which extend
towards the ſouth-eaſt. {
27th. In the morning of this day, we had fight of Portland Iſlands,
which we coaſted at a ſmall diſtance. They form a group of ſeven little
iſlands, which occupy a ſpace of about 7,500 toiſes in extent, in the
direétion of eaſt and weſt. They are very flat, covered with large trees,
and are connected together by reefs and ſand-banks. 2
Thoſe little iſlands are in latitude 2° 39' 44" S. and in longitude 147°
15' E. -
28th. We continued to direét our courſe towards the Admiralty Iſlands,
where Commodore Hunter, according to the account of two French
captains, believed that he ſaw the wreck of the unfortunate expedition of
La Perouſe; and we ſteered for the moſt ſoutherly of the little group.
Like moſt of the iſlands in the South Seas, this is bordered by reefs at a
ſmall diſtance from the beach.
A line of fifty toiſes in length did not reach the bottom; although
we were but 1,000 toiſes from the land. tº
We obſerved towards the S. W. ſome canoes proceeding along ſhore,
within the reefs; but none of them ſeemed deſirous of getting clear of
the reefs, in order to come towards us. We alſo diſtinguiſhed ſome
groups of natives, upon the moſt advanced points of land, in order that
they might have the better view of our ſhips.
- - " . A large
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July.] OF LA PEROUSE. " 17 l.
A large tree {tanding above the breakers, was taken by ſome for the
wreck of a ſhip; but the branches and roots which were diſtinétly ſeen,
left no doubt that it was a tree, which had been detached from the coaſt.
The Commander ſent an officer on board the Eſperance, to concert
with the captain the reſearches which it would be proper to make at the
Admiralty Iſlands, agreeable to the intelligence which had been ſent us
at the Cape of Good Hope.
We paſſed the night in beating about, and making head againſt the
currentS. w i
29th. Captain Huon waited on the General, early the next morning.
He was of opinion, that we ſhould viſit the iſland E. N. E. of that
we had coaſted. In fact, according to one of the depoſitions which had
been ſent to the Commander of the expedition, it was on the moſt
eaſterly iſland that the ſavages had been ſeen cloathed in the uniform of
the French marine. About the middle of the day we were within 2,500
toiſes of that iſland, and ſaw ſome of the natives coming towards
the beach. Some huts were ſeen among the cocoa-nut trees. Other
iſlanders ſoon appeared on the ſouth-eaſt point; and their number in-
creaſed as we approached them. Some canoes lay upon the ſand, and
we hoped to ſee the natives launch them, in order to meet us; but they
made no diſpoſitions for that purpoſe. As the General wiſhed to have an
interview with them, we went under the lee of the iſland, where we
found but little ſhelter, it being of ſmall extent. A crowd of natives now
appeared. Some ran along the ſhore; others kept their eyes direéted to-
wards our ſhips, inviting us by ſigns to come on ſhore, and expreſfing
their joy by ſhouting. Some of them launched a canoe, but heſitated for
forme time to come near our ſhip, and paddled towards the Eſperance
which was more to windward. This little canoe was furniſhed with an
out-rigger, and had on board ſeven natives, who almoſt immediately re-
turned on ſhore.
At half paſt one o'clock we brought.to, and diſpatched from each ſhip a
-boat, with different articles, to be diſtributed among the inhabitants of
that little iſland. While the boats were approaching the land as near as
g Y 2 they
172, VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
they could, the frigates were in readineſs to protećt them, in caſe of an
attack from the ſavages; for the perfidy, which the inhabitants of the
moſt ſoutherly of the Admiralty Hlands had praćtiſed on Carteret, gave us
ſome apprehenſions with regard to the intentions of thoſe. That voyager ...,
tells us, that in September 1767, when he diſcovered the ſouthern part
of that archipelago, the ſavages attacked him with two volleys of arrows,
notwithſtanding the marks of friendſhip which he had laviſhed upon .
them. - º
This iſland was cultivated to its very ſummit. Several pieces of land
were fenced in, which made us believe that the inhabitants were ac-
quainted with the right of property. The whole iſland preſented the ap-
pearance of a little round mountain, the baſe of which was adorned with
beautiful plantations of cocoa-nut trees, while its more elevated parts ap-
peared to be allotted to the cultivation of different roots, which alſo fur-
niſh food to the inhabitants.
When the boats came within about fifty toiſes of the ſhore, they
found no bottom with thirty-three fathoms of line; and the reefs, with
which the iſland is bordered, prevented them from approaching nearer.
A great number of natives advanced to the beach. We counted more
than an hundred and fifty, who pračtiſed every mean in their power, to
induce us to land on their iſland; but the reefs were an obſtacle which
we could not ſurmount. They threw our people ſome cocoa-nuts, and
were pleaſed and aſtoniſhed to ſee with what facility they were opened
with an axe. . . . . . -** { * *
One of the natives, diſtinguiſhed from the reſt by a double row of lit-
tle ſhclis, which adorned his forehead, appeared to poſſeſs great authority.
He ordered one of the natives to ſwim towards us with ſome cocoa-nuts.
The fear of approaching perſons of whoſe intention he was ignorant,
made the iſlander, ſwimming and defenceleſs, heſitate a moment. But
the chief who, doubtleſs, was little accuſtomed to have his will diſobeyed,
did not allow him to reflect. Blows from a cudgel, which he held in his
hand, immediately fucceeded his orders, and enforced inſtant obedi-
ence. We did not expect to ſee a man treated in this manner, in the
k º midſt
s
JULY.] . OF LA PEROUSE. 173
midſt of a crowd of people, who appeared to be ſo little removed from a
ſtate of nature. By way of comforting the poor fellow, our people gave
him ſome bits of red ſtuff, a few nails, and a knife, with which he was
greatly pleaſed. No ſooner had he returned to the iſland, than curioſity
collected all the reſt around him, every one wiſhing to ſee our preſents.
Canoes were immediately launched, many natives took to the water and
ſwam, and in a ſhort time there was a great concourſe around our boats.
We were ſurprized to ſee that neither the force of the ſurf, nor of the
breakers, diſcouraged them from this attempt.
There was another chief diſtinguiſhed by the ſame ornaments as he
who has been already mentioned; and alſo by the blows, which he in- .
flićted with his cudgel, on thoſe to whom he gave his orders.
Thoſe iſlanders, who ſignified the greateſt ſatisfaction at the ſight of
our nails, and ſtill more of our hatchets, had ſome difficulty in perceiving
the value of our knives. At firſt they required them to be ſhut, before
they would receive them; but their fears were very quickly baniſhed,
and they received them open as well as ſhut. Thoſe people gave us ſome
ſpears, armed with bits of vitreous, volcanic lava, terminating in a point,
and very ſharp in the edges. They alſo preſented us with combs, having
only three teeth, very diſtant from each other, very heavy bracelets,
formed of large ſhells, and others conſiſting of ſmall buccinae, ſtrung on a
fibrous ſubſtance, as ſtrong as the beſt hemp.
When aſking for our articles in exchange for theirs, thoſe ſavages often
repeated the word capelle. It appeared to us that this was their name for
iron, which they preferred to every thing we could offer them.
Like the natives of Bouka, they repeated with much juſtneſs, the
French words which they heard us pronounce.
One of their canoes was driven by the ſwell againſt one of our boats,
and received ſome damage. One of our rowers taking hold of it to pre-
vent a ſecond ſhock, a chief, miſapprehending our intention, made the
ſignal to the canoe-men, the greater part of whom precipitately jumped
into the ſea, with a deſign to ſwim on ſhore; but they returned as ſoon
as they perceived their error, and confidence was re-eſtabliſhed.
§ The
I 74 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
The women kept at ſome diſtance, under the cocoa-nut trees. Their
whole cloathing conſiſted of a piece of mat, round their middle.
The men were very buſy about our boats. Some ſwam towards them,
ſhowing their cocoa-nuts; and others ſeemed to be attracted by curioſity;
but it was ſoon diſcovered that this was not their only paſſion; for they
exerted all their addreſs to get poſſeſſion of our goods. Impunity in-
creaſed their boldneſs; and, when they miſſed their aim, they were not
diſcouraged; but preſently endeavoured to ſeize ſomething elſe.
One of thoſe thieves ſeized upon a knife ; but being caught in the fact,
he was obliged to give it up. This did not make him abandon his enter-
prize, and he loſt nothing by his failure. A flag, in which red predomi-
nated, attracted his regards : he found means to get poſſeſſion of it, and
the thcft was not perceived till he had got a great way from the boat, and
had almoſt reached the iſland.
A looking-glaſs having been given to one of thoſe ſavages, he contem-
plated his image with ſurprize; but immediately broke the glaſs, hoping,
no doubt, to find in it the objećts which it refleóted.
The complexion of thoſe iſlanders is black, but not very deep. Their
phyſiognomy is agreeable, and not very different from that of the Euro-
peans. Born in a fine climate, and a fertile iſland, they ſeem to be hap-
py, if one may judge from the air of ſatisfaction, which is expreſſed in all
their features. The hair of their heads is criſped, and they are in the
practice of removing it from every other part of the body. It appeared
that the volcanic glaſs, with which they pointed their ſpears, ſupplied
them alſo with razors; for they made ſigns to one of our gunners, who
wore whiſkers, to ſhave them with this ſort of glaſs.
The boats had orders to return about four o'clock. Their departure
ſeemed ſenſibly to affect the natives, who redoubled their importunity in
ſoliciting us to land in their iſland. All the women came to the beach,
and joincd their invitations to thoſe of the men. They were, no doubt,
much ſurpriſed that they had not more ſucceſs; but the order had been
given, and our boats could not delay their departure.
It was with regret that we left thoſe people, at the moment when they
had
JULY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 175
had launched ſeveral canoes, loaded with cocoa-nuts, and were bringing
them to us. The delicious water of thoſe fruits, would have been of the
greateſt utility in ſtopping the progreſs of the ſcurvy, which had already
begun its ravages in both the ſhips. If our boats could have ſtopped ſome
minutes, they would have procured a great number of them.
The ſatisfaction with which thoſe iſlanders received nails, and other
articles of iron, and the anxiety they ſhowed to obtain them, were proofs
that they were acquainted with that metal.
Thoſe people, at firſt, manifeſted every appearance of good faith ; but
they diſcovered their inclination to theft, as ſoon as they thought them-
ſelves certain of impunity. We had occaſion to obſerve, that thoſe who
were the moſt advanced in years were the boldeſt thieves.
That little iſland, which is nearly circular, is about 25,000 toiſes in
diameter, and is ſituated in 2° 18' S. lat., and 145° 46' E. long. It is
extremely populous; for we ſaw about three hundred of its inhabitants.
The white appearance of ſeveral places of the iſland, where fraćtures
diſcovered the ſtrata, gave me reaſon to believe, that its baſe is of a cal-
careous nature, like the greater part of the South Sea iſlands.
As ſoon as the boats were hoiſted on board, we dire&ted our courſe to-
wards the E. H. N. E.
30th. The next day we got to the northward of the Admiralty Iſlands.
There we perceived, that an extenſive mountainous iſland occupies the
centre of the group, the circumference of which conſiſts of a great num-
ber of little flat iſlands, which ſeem to have emerged from the boſom of
the ocean, at no very diſtant period. Almoſt all of them are connected
together by reefs and ſand banks.
About ſun-ſet we were 8,000 toiſes to the north-eaſt of the little iſlands
which were neareſt to the principal one.
31ſt. As ſoon as day-light appeared, we ſteered W. S. W. ſtanding in for
the land. Some canoes, which a very high ſail made to loom large, ap-
peared at a diſtance.
We were to leeward of thoſe iſlands, in a large bay, formed by their
curvatures, and, a ſhort diſtance from the land. We ſounded ſeveral
times, with ſixty-eight fathoms of line, but found no bottom.
176 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
There were many cocoa-nut trees on moſt of the little iſlands. A great
concourſe of natives came upon the beach, and ſome of them advanced as
far as the adjoining reefs. The little iſlands where there were no cocoa-
nut trees, did not ſeem to be inhabited; for we ſaw not a ſingle ſavage
upon them. * -
Several canoes were launched, many ſtill lay on the ſand, and ſix,
which had ſet ſail, were making towards our ſhip. We immediately lay
to, in order to receive them. Some of them were manned with ſeven
natives, and others with nine. Having come within 300 toiſes of our
ſhip, they furled their ſail, and uſed the paddle to make a nearer approach.
Each canoe had a commander, who ſtood on a platform, and gave his
orders. When the canoes had paddled about 150 toiſes, they ſtopped,
and from that diſtance one of the chiefs addreſſed us in a ſpeech. His
eloquence was wholly loſt on us; but the ſigns with which it was ac-
companicq, did not allow us to doubt that he wiſhed to induce us to land.
Probably the paddlers were not permitted to ſpeak; but they joined their
ſigns of invitation to thoſe of the chief.
We endeavoured, on our part, to prevail on them to come nearer our
ſhip. They could not reſiſt the ſight of our large pieces of red ſtuff; and,
after appearing to deliberate upon the caſe, they advanced a little.
Some of our officers imagining that the ſound of the bells would be
agreeable them, they were immediately rung; but, as ſeveral perſons had
foreſcen, the noiſe, inſtead of attracting the ſavages, made them take to
flight. They were induced, however, to return, by the ſight of ſeveral
flags which we waved, and by ſome tunes played by our fiddler.
Preſents might procure us their confidence. We therefore threw them
an empty bottle, which we ſuppoſed they would immediately ſeize upon.
But they appeared to look upon it as a fatal gift; for they paid no other
attention to it, than to keep at a diſtance from it.
Nails and knives which were floated to them upon a board, occaſioned
loud expreſſions of joy, when the ſavage who took them up ſhowed them
to his companions. It appeared then, that thoſe natives were acquainted
with the uſe of iron.
Nonc of them had hitherto ventured to touch the bottle; but the pre-
ſents
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JULY.] OF LA PEROUSE, 177
ſents having won their confidcnce, one of them took poſſeſſion of it, and
cut the ſtring by which it was held, with a piece of volcanic glaſs.
The natives now made no difficulty of coming alongſide of the ſhip,
but would not conſent to come on board. The number of canoes by
degrees increaſed, and our barter was carried on with the greateſt fairneſs
imaginable. We even ſaw ſome of thoſe people, who werc puſhed at a
diſtance from the ſhip, by the concourſe of canoes, before they could give
us the article which they had agreed to exchange for that which they had
received, making their utmoſt efforts for that purpoſe. They carefully
ſought for the perſons to whom they were indebted; and ſome of them,
after an interval of half an hour, came and delivered us the articles which
they owed. * -
[In this place the Author has minutely deſcribed a ſingular cuſtom
which prevails among the natives, who, according to him, cover certain
parts of their bodies with a white ſhell, denominated bulla ovum, (Sce
Plate III.) which, however, they appeared willing to diſpoſe of Deli-
cacy forbids the Tranſlator from entering either into a deſcription of the
ſhell, or of its uſes.]
The great number of canoes with which we were ſurroundcd, pre-
vented many of them from approaching the ſhip; but ſome of the canoe-
men ſwam towards us with the objećts of their barter. Thoſe iſlanders
preferred, to every thing that we offered them, bits of iron in whatever
form they happened to be. They ſo well diſtinguiſhed that metal from
all other ſubſtances, that they recognized it, even when coated with ruſt.
I thought that habit muſt have rendered thoſe people excellent ſwim-
mers. But their movements were too precipitate; though they differed
in no other reſpect from our good European ſwimmers. They needed
not, however, to have made great efforts to ſupport themſelves in the
water; for, by keeping their mouths ſhut, they immerſed a part of the
head. Several ſupported themſelves in the water, by the motion of their
feet only, till they tied to our ropes, the articles which they wiſhed to
barter. n * -
If we may judge of the charaćter of thoſe natives, by their condućt to-
- Z . . . . . ... wards
178 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
wards us, their diſpoſitions were excellent: an air of goodneſs was expreſſed
in their features. Very different from the ſavages of the little iſland,
which we had viſited two days before, they gave us proofs of great probity.
It was ſurpriſing to meet with ſo great a difference in the manners of ſa-
vages, ſo little removed from each other, and who pračtiſed the ſame arts.
The diſparity of their condućt towards us might have proceeded from
this; that the ſavages of the little iſland had dealt only with boats, where-
as the others did buſineſs with large ſhips, which inſpired reſpect.
The commanders of the canoes commonly made the paddlers ſurrender
the articles which we had given them. We ſaw with pain, that they
formetimes employed violence for this purpoſe. One of thoſe poor people
had received from us a bit of red ſerge, which he was not willing to de-
liver to one of the chiefs; but the latter forced it from him, by repeated
blows with his cudgel. n
At the ſame time, one of the iſlanders, in another canoe, was treated
with ſimilar harſhneſs, by one of the chiefs, becauſe the poor wretch had
allowed his attention to be occupied in contemplating our ſhips, and had
forgotten to bale the water out of the canoe.
The natives who ſwam towards us, in order to exchange their commo-
dities, were conſidered as competitors, and ſoon excited the jealouſy of
thoſe in the canoes which ſurrounded the ſhip. Theſe laſt took great
care to preſerve their ſituation: they endeavoured to keep off the ſwim-
mers, and would not allow them to reſt, by taking hold of their canoes.
The ſwimmers, being thus obliged to move about continually, in carrying
on their barter gave a great deal of a&tivity to this ſingular ſcene of com-
IY). CrCC.
Theſe natives, like thoſe whom we had ſeen two days before, preferred
nails to knives. --
Several had in their hands calabaſhes of different ſhapes, filled with lime
very finely pulverized. Others had their lime in pieces of bamboo. One
of theſe laſt, who had a ſpoon in the ſhape of a ſpatula, filled it with lime,
which he ſhowed to us, no doubt by way of recommending its qualities.
By making many motions with his mouth, and greatly inflating his checks,
he
July.] . OF LA PEROUSE. 179
he ſeemed deſirous to perſuade us, that his lime produced very agreeable
ſenſations. º
Another chief had a little parcel of the leaves of the pepper tree, piper
Jiriboa, Linn. -
They probably chew them without the addition of arec nuts; for we
faw in their mouths none of the marks which are produced by the maſti-
cation of betel. We obſerved thoſe articles of luxury only in the poſſeſſion
of the chiefs, for whom they are probably reſerved.
Some of thoſe ſavages wore bracelets formed of large ſhells, among
which we obſerved ſea ears, ground in the middle and the edges.
Moſt of them had different kinds of ſhells appended to the inferior lobes
of their ears, which, when pierced, they are in the habit of extending ſo
prodigiouſly, that they deſcend lower than their ſhoulders, as appears in
Plate III. It ſeemed that they produced this great diſtenſion, by introduc-
ing elaſtic hoops into the holes. The only child we ſaw was furniſhed
with two ſuch hoops. *
Their hair is criſped and black; but they frequently render it red with
a mixture of ochre and oil, and ſometimes they tie it up with a fillet of
bark. Their ſkin is a light black, which they ſometimes adorn with red
figures in different parts of the body.
They carried neither bows nor clubs but only ſpears, from about five feet
to ſix feet and a half in length. (See Plate XXVIII. Fig. 25.) The
vitreous volcanic lava, of which their heads were formed, was ground to
a ſharp edge on each ſide, about three inches in length, and faſtened
with a ſtring, coated with a kind of maſtic.
This weapon muſt be dangerous among a people who wear no cloaths.
Their ſkin, conſtantly expoſed, muſt be ill able to reſiſt ſo ſharp a piece of
glaſs, eſpecially in places where it has a little tenſion. *
This volcanic glaſs is perhaps not very common in the Admiralty
Iſlands; for ſome of thoſe ſavages had ſpears armed with ſharp pieces of
wood inſtead of glaſs.
Many had the ſeptum of the noſe pierced with a hole, which contained
a ſtring, to the extremities of which were ſuſpended dogs' teeth twice as
Z2 long
18O VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
long as human ones. One of them, wiſhing to part with this ornament,
a chief, in cutting the ſtring aukwardly, which was too ſhort, with a piece
of volcanic glaſs, wounded the native.
An order iſſued by the General very much interrupted this bartering
trade; although the natives ſtill had a great many things which they
wiſhed to diſpoſe of. One of the chiefs very much amuſed us with his
calabaſh of lime, the properties of which he diſplayed with many oſtenta-
tious airs, thinking, no doubt, thereby to enhance its price. His geſtures
might have been conſidered, as a happy imitation of thoſe of our moſt dex-
trous mountebank doćtors.
We did not obſerve among thoſe iſlanders any articles of European
origin. As by this time, we bought ſcarcely any thing, they quitted our
ſhip, and carried the reſt of their manufactures alongſide of the Eſpe-
Iſa Il CC,
Their canoes are formed of the excavated trunk of a tree, with boards
fitted to its ſides. Their length is thirty-two feet, and their extreme
breadth not more than twenty-ſix inches. Their ſides are ſupported in-
ternally by croſs boards, which form ſo many diviſions, in the bottoms of
which are the paddlers, towards the two extremities of the canoe.
Thoſe canoes are furniſhed with an outrigger, about thirteen feet in
length, which projećts laterally and nearly at the ſame diſtance. On the
oppoſite ſide is a counter-outrigger, which does not take the water, and
which is eight feet in length. It ſerves as a place upon which to lay the
fail; the commander ſometimes ſits upon it; but his ſtation is com-
monly on an elevated platform or trellis, of the ſame extent as the out-
rigger.
The ſail is a mat, in the form of a regular ſquare, 13 fect in the ſide. Two
oppoſite ſides of it are faſtened to poles of the ſame length, which ſerve
for yards. When the ſail is ſet, one of its diagonals is always vertical, and
its upper angle is elevated three feet above the top of the maſt, which is .
about twenty feet in height. The wind acts ſtrongly upon ſo lofty a ſail,
and gives to thoſe canoes an impulſe, which makes them plough the water
with aſtoniſhing rapidity. $
When
JULY.] OF LA PEROUSE." 18 J
When this ſwift motion is not required, they only hoiſt about five feet
of one ſide of their ſail in a horizontal poſition, while the reſt of it lies on
the canoe. But in this way they can only ſail right before the wind.
Their paddles are very broad, and are furniſhed with a handle ſix feet
and a half in length. They uſe them as our ſailors do their oars; for they
aćt like levers, whoſe point of ſupport is on one ſide of the canoe. The
{teerſman is ſtationed in the ſtern, and directs the canoe with his paddle.
After lying to till half paſt ten in the morning, we continued to follow
the coaſt in a weſterly direction. It is every where bordered with iſlands
connected together by reefs. We obſerved, beyond thoſe reefs, ſeveral
fiſhing places, conſtructed więtº ſtakes fixed in the bottom, at a certain diſ-
tance from the beach, and which reſembled thoſe which we afterwards
ſaw in the Moluccas.
As ſoon as we ſet ſail, the canoes followed our example, in order to ac-
company us. We admired the celerity with which that flotilla clave the
waters. Although we had a very freſh breeze, and a great deal of ſail ſet,
thoſe little veſſels ſailed a great deal faſter than our ſhips.
Cloſe to a fiſhing place, much larger than any that we had ſeen, were
ſeventeen canoes which immediately paddled towards us. We hove to,
in order to wait, for them ; but as, notwithſtanding our invitations, they
remained at the diſtance of five hundred toiſes from our ſhip, we reſumed
our courſe, directing it to the W. H. S. W.
At the cloſe of the day, two canoes puſhed off from the ſhore, and ad-
vanced towards us. It was night before they came within hearing. One
of the commanders immediately addreſſed us in an clevated voice. It is
proper to obſerve, that the voices of thoſe natives are very ſhrill. As it was
almoſt quite calm, we endeavoured to allure them to the ſhip ; but they
durſt not venture near enough to receive our preſents.
It was imagined that a ſquib would be a pleaſing ſpectacle to them :
but on the contrary it terrified the m ſo much, that they retreated with
precipitation.
Notwithſtanding the darkneſs of the night, thoſe two canoes, guided
by our lights, returned towards us. We ſent them ſome articles of hard-
ware,
182 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792,
ware, upon a board along with a lighted taper. The light, which we ſoon
left at a diſtance, engroſſed their whole attention; but they durſt not
come nearer to it than about 200 toiſes. It was amuſing enough to hear
the two chiefs addreſs long ſpeeches to the taper. They ſpoke with much
warmth, ſuppoſing, no doubt, that one of us was coming towards them
with this light. Chagrined, perhaps, at its ſilence, which formed ſo direct
a contraſt to their babbling noiſe, they returned in about two hours to-
wards their iſland. Fires were all the while kept burning upon the beach,
perhaps to ſhow the canoes the place to which they were to return.
We lay to all the night.
AUGUST 1ſt. In the morning we ſaw he weſtern extremity of that
little inſular group, which extends about fifteen leagues from eaſt to weſt.
The moſt weſtern iſland is in 2° 11' 36" ſouth latitude, and in 143° 47'
38" eaſt longitude.
Reefs and ſand-banks extended beyond them 8,000 toiſes towards the
ſouth-weſt.
We ſoon came in ſight of other reefs, which were 5,000 toiſes in ex-
tent from eaſt to weſt. They are ſituated in 2° 13' ſouth latitude, and
143° 40′ eaſt longitude.
We carried a little ſail towards W. N. W. during the night.
At day-break we had fight of the Hermit iſlands, diſcovered in 1781,
by the Spaniſh frigate the Princeſſa, which ſaw them at the diſtance of
about 25,000 toiſes. Their high lands ſeemed, at a diſtance, to leave in-
tervals between them ſufficient to afford us a paſſage; but we ſoon per-
ceived their low-lands advancing into the ſea, and diſtinguiſhed the recſs
which conncéted them together.
That little cluſter is compoſed of thirteen ſmall iſlands, having in the
middle, like the Admiralty Iſlands, a principal one, extending from ſouth-
weſt to north-eaſt by caſt, about 15,000 toiſes. The iſlets which furround
it on all ſides, except the ſouth, are very ſmall and very low.
We were 10,000 toiſes to the northward of thoſe iſlands, and to the
leeward of the northern point of the great iſland, when we ſaw ſome ca-
noes under ſail. They were behind the recſs, in which we ſaw no open-
ing
August.] OF LA PEROUSE ) S3
ing through which they could paſs, and we believed that they could not
ſurmount ſuch obſtacles; but, having come cloſe to the rects, they took
in their ſail, and, going into the water, they carried their veſſels fairly over
the rocks into the open ſca.
The canoe which was firſt got over ſteered towards our ſhip, and the
reſt, being five in number, preſently followed; but as their motions were
ſlow, they were ſoon nearer to the Eſperance, which was in our wake, and
they advanced towards her. After manoeuvring with much intelligence
to bring their ſail into a proper poſition, they ſtill choſe to keep at the
diſtance of about 100 toiſes. All the means employed to bring them
alongſide were ineffectual; but they went near enough to throw ſome ap-
ples of the ſpondias cytherea, and ſeveral other fruits of different ſpecies of
the eugenia, all very proper to be eaten. The bottles and bits of ſtuff given
to them were received with marks of the greateſt ſatisfaction; but it was
ſurprizing to obſerve that they had little value for iron.
Like all the other natives we had hitherto met with, they appeared ex-
tremely deſirous that we ſhould land on their iſland.
One of the canoes advanced towards our ſhip, while the reſt returned to
the ſhore. Notwithſtanding our invitations, thoſe natives kept at the
diſtance of 150 toiſes from us. They durſt not touch the different arti-
cles which we ſent them with a view to gain their confidence. Some,
however, appeared deſirous that their canoe ſhould be ſteered towards our
preſents in order to get poſſeſſion of them ; but the ſentiment of fear pre-
vailed among the majority.
It was noon before we reſumed our courſe. All the canoes followed us
for ſome time before they returned to our iſland. That which approached
the neareſt to our ſhip accompanied us with the greateſt perſeverance. It
was a very large canoe, manned by thirty people, who all appeared more
robuſt than the inhabitants of the Admiralty Iſlands, and of the ſame
complexion.
Thoſe natives advanced towards us with very pacific views; for they
were not furniſhed with arms; and, from on board the Eſperance, to
which they approached much nearer than to our ſhip, no weapons were ob-
ſerved
184 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
ſerved even in the bottoms of the canoes. Perhaps they thought that by
this means they might induce us to land.
Thoſe canoes, though ſimilar in appearance to thoſe of the Admiralty
Iſlands, were not nearly ſuch good ſailers. That which came neareſt to us
had at firſt but one ſail; but they ſet another abaft it, in order to follow
us. This after-ſail was much ſmaller than the forward one; and they
were both in the form of a rečtangle, the length of which was almoſt dou-
ble its breadth. They were trimmed like the ſquare ſails of our long
boats.
Their large ſail was as much raiſed as that of the canoes we ſaw at the
Admiralty Iſlands, and deſcended lower, ſo as to offer a greater ſurface to
the wind.
The whole of the Hermit Iſlands, including the reefs, occupy a ſpace
about twelve leagues in circuit, the centre of which is in 19 35' 38" ſouth
latitude, and 142° 41' eaſt longitude. -
In the evening we were very near the moſt eaſtern of that little group,
to which General Bougainville gave the name of Exchequer Iſlands.
It is very low, and only nine leagues W. S.W. of the Hermit Iſlands.
The reefs on its north-weſt ſide form a baſin, in which there appeared to
be water ſufficient for anchoring.
A great number of other iſlands were ſeen from north to weſt.
We made but little ſail during the night, while tacking in order to
keep to windward of thoſe iſlands.
3d. At day-break the moſt eaſterly of the Exchequer Iſlands bore ſouth,
diſtant 5,000 toiſes. It is in 19 29% of ſouth latitude, and 142° 26' of
caſt longitude.
At cight o'clock A. M. we ſteered towards the weſt; and we already
reckoned thirty little iſlands from the N. N. E. to the W. S. W.
We ſteered for that which appeared to be the moſt weſterly, to which
we approached within about 2,500 toiſes. It is in 19 34° ſouth latitude,
and 142° 10' eaſt longitude.
All thoſe iſlands are conncéted together by recſs, which ſeem to deny
all paſſage. They are very low, and covered with very lofty trees.
Morc
acoust.] OF LA PEROUSE. I 85
More iſlands came into view as we advanced ; and at laſt we had ſight
of the moſt ſouth-weſterly iſland of that little cluſter, which is not con-
nected to the reſt by any reef. It is in lat 1° 39' S. and in long, 14.1°
58' E.
We lay to during the whole night.
4th. This morning, we ſaw, towards the ſouth, a low and very woody
iſland, about 8,000 toiſes in extent. This new iſland was in 1° 31' S.
lat. and 140° 47' E. longitude.
We ſoon diſcovered another iſland, ſtill leſs than, and to the S. W. of,
the former, from which it is 15,000 toiſes. It is cqually low, and covered
with large trees.
On thoſe low iſlands near the Equator, the trees grow with aſtoniſh-
ing rapidity and vigour; * as the atmoſphere furniſhes them at once with
extreme heat and moiſture.
Although we had been, for ſome days, very near the Line, and found
the heat ſuffocating, the thermometer had not yet riſen above 24 g”.
We ſaw large trees floating, which had been detached from the low
iſlands by the waves. One of thoſe trees adhering to the prow of our
ſhip, for ſome time retarded her motion.
8th. At five o'clock P. M. being upon the Equator, in 135° 4' E. long.
we ſaw a very conſiderable water-ſpout, forming in the ſouth-weſt, at
the diſtance of about 2,000 toiſes: although the air about us was very
tranquil, the waves were foaming with agitation, at the place where the
water-ſpout originated, over which a very ſmall cloud hovered, apparent-
ly at the diſtance of a few feet. This phoenomenon was in the form of
two very elongated cones, joined at their ſummits, the baſe of one being
upon the ſea, and that of the other loſt in a very thick cloud.
The clouds appeared to me to be agitated by a whirlwind, which hav-
ing held a great quantity of water ſuſpended, diſcharged it again in tor-
* This is more particularly true of trees, which are of a ſpongy texture, as the filk cot-
ton tree, bombax, the ſand-box tree, hura, &c. But many of the hard woods, for exam-
ple, the lignum vitae, or gºtiacum, grow very ſlowly, and hence have been almoſt extir-
Pated, in all the tropical iſlands, fully inhabited by Europeans.—Tranſlatºr.
*.
A a I'CIntS,
1 S5 VOYAGE IN SFARCII | 1702.
rents. Perhaps all water-ſpouts are formed in this manner. If, as ſome
natural philoſophers alledge, a water-ſpout carried up the ſea-water, in
a great body, it ought to be as ſalt in the moment of its deſcent, as in
that of its aſcent, which does not ſeem to accord with obſervation. A
perſon, worthy of credit, who ſaw two watcr-ſpouts fall upon a veſſel,
aſſured me that they diſcharged freſh water. On the contrary fuppoſi-
tion, it would not be caſy to explain this phoenomenon.*
9th. The limpidity of the ſea-water was very much diminiſhed, during
this day, by a fºcus, the filaments of which were very looſe and ſhort. I
met with it again on the 0th of September, and ſhall afterwards ſpeak
of it more particularly.
We found ſharks very numerous in thoſe parts. We caught ſeveral of
the ſpecies ſualus carcharias, which is the moſt extenſively diffuſed
through the ocean. One of them, of a moderate ſize, aſtoniſhed us by
its voracity. Although lacerated by four hooks, which it had taken
within the ſpace of half an hour, it followed us, till it was hooked ſuc-
ceſsfully. i
Being near New Guinea, and but eight minutes diſtant from the Line,
the thermometer only indicated 25°, although we ſuffered a heat much
more oppreſſive than that which is cxperienced in Europe, when the
thermometer is at the ſamc elevation. In obſerving that that inſtrument
is a vcry uncertain meaſure of ſenſible heat, I ought to apprize the reader
that I aſ ways ſpeak of the mercurial thermometer of Reaumur.
11th. This day, the Eſperance ran foul of us, being the fixth accident
of this kind, ſince we left Europc. She broke the foot rope of her ſprit-
* It is not very eaſy to give a ſatisfactory cxplanation of this phoenomenon, upon
any principles; though thoſe of eleētricity ſecn) to afford, or rather to promiſe, the moſt
probable ſolution of it.—Tranſlator.
+ I knew a ſimilar inſtance, in one of thoſe monſtel”, which was eighteen feet in
length. It was ſuppoſed to be the ſame which had devoured a man, ſome days before
it was taken. Its liver hung up in a net dropped about ten gallons of oil.—Tranſlator.
f I have very ſenſibly experienced the ſame eſſe&t myſelf. Is it owing to the greater
quantity of water, which the air, conſtantly heated, holds in ſolution in tropical climates :
~T) an/atºr.
ſail
August.] OF LA PEROUSE. I S7
ſail yard, on the fore part of our rigging. Fortunately we kept the fil-
gates afunder, by placing a boom between them. As it was a dead calm,
we put out two boats, to tow the ſhips ſtill farther from each other.”
The boats, at the ſame time, obſerved the direction of the current, which
carried us to the N. N. E. at the rate of half a knot in the hour.
12th. At day-break, we had ſight of the largeſt of Schouten's likands,
bearing S. & S. W.
The ſurface of the water was violently agitated, in a large ſpace,
through which the Eſperance had occaſion to paſs, in proſecuting her
courſe. Fearing that it was cauſed by breakers, ſhe put about; but the
deception ſoon ceaſed. This motion was produced by a large ſhoal of
fiſhes, ſwimming near the ſurface, and which was purſued by a great
number of birds.
Although it was now the ſeaſon of the eaſtern monſoon, the winds
blew, for four days, from the ſouth-weſt to the north-weſt; but on the
14th, thcy reſumed their ſouth-eaſt direction.
The ſame day, we ſaw a little iſland, very near New Guinea, and
which is 10,000 toiſes diſtant from the iſland of Providence. That
little iſland is in 2" | 8' 48" S. lat. and 133° S. 47° E. longitude.
The inceſlant and great heats in thoſe latitudes, accelerated the de-
compoſition of our water, which was ſo much the worſe, as that to
the uſe of which we were by that time reduced, was ſomewhat brackiſh,
For the water which we firſt took in at Carteret harbour, was taken up
too near the ſea, and had been preſerved, notwithſtanding its bad quality.
Beſides, that the ballaſt may not be diminiſhed, it is uſual to fill the
empty butts with ſalt-water, which ought to be well rinſed out, before
they are again filled with freſh. But the boatſwain's mate, who had the
charge of the water, did not take ſo much trouble. It was eaſy to free
the water from its inflammable air, by the machine, which I have already
deſcribed ; but it always retained a brackiſh taſte.
* The difficulty of keeping ſhips aſunder in a calm, is commonly, and very properly,
given as an inſtance of the mutual attraction of bodies, Tranſlatºr.
A a 2 18th,
1 SS VOYAGE IN SEARCſ i [1702.
18th. A ſtorm had howled, for a part of the night, on the coaſt of
New Guinea, and had given us a great quantity of rain. The ſky
ſeemed to announce a tempeſt; but the ſtorms, near the Equator, are
more menacing, than really formidable,” and we ſoon enjoyed a very
clear ſky.
We ſaw a fine chain of mountains which ranged towards the eaſt.
The higheſt of them appeared to be at leaſt 750 toiſes in perpendicular al-
titude. The large trees, with which they were covered, added greatly
to the pićtureſque appearance of the country. y
19th. Being in o' 18" ſouth latitude, and 430° 52' eaſt longitude,
and 1,000 toiſes diſtant from New Guinea, we ſounded with one hun-
dred fathoms of line, but found no bottom.
The firſt indication we had of the inhabitants of that iſland, was the
ſmoke of two fires, which roſe from among the large trees near the coaſt.
We were then near the promontory of New Guinea, which is called
the Capc of Good Hope, and which we doubled at the diſtance of 1,000
toiſes. It is 0° 20' ſouth latitude, and 130° 34' eaſt longitude. We were
ſurprized that Foreſt, in other reſpects an accurate navigator, ſhould have
ſo much miſtaken its true latitude; for that which he gave, differed from
ours more than 20' towards the north.
The variation of the compaſs, after a gradual diminution was now but
1° 30' caſt.
We were prevented by calms from coaſting along New Guinca, till a
ſea-breeze ſprang up, about three o'clock P. M. The ſhore was generally
broken and rocky : but we obſerved ſome ſandy ſpots, of a gentle decli-
vity, which preſented convenient landing places.
21ſt. On the morning of this day we were very near the two little
iſlands of Miſs l’alu. The leaſt of them is in O' 20" ſouth latitude, and
in 130° 7' caſt longitude. The largeſt is in O* 10^57" ſouth latitude, and
130° 1' 30" caſt longitude.
23d. We ſtccred cloſe to the ſhorc of New Guinea, with an intention
* Should not thc Author have excepted, at leaſt, the hurricancs at Amboyna, mentioned
below (O&t. 14.) not to ſpeak of thoſe, which too often rage in the Wºſt Indies?—Tran/
to
AUGUST.] OF LA PEROUSE. 1 St.)
to enter among the Moluccas, by Watſon's Strait. It would have been
agreeable to us to cxplore that ſtrait, which is much leſs frequented than
thoſe further to the weſtward. Beſides, we would have had the advantage
of kecping more to the windward, than by paſiing through Pitt's Straits,
which the continuation of the ſouth winds induced us to take.
About elcven o'clock in the morning, being to the north-weſt, and very
near it, we found that we were upon a ſhoal, which extends more than
5,000 toiſes from the coaſt of Bantana. We were ſtrongly intangled in it,
when the lead indicatcd eight fathoms water, rocky bottom. It was a
bank of coral, which the tranſparency of the water diſplayed in all its
whiteneſs. We were obliged to go about, in order to extricate ourſelves
from ſo dangerous a ſituation.
We entered the ſtraits about half an hour paſt two P. M. A canoe
which we ſaw at the entrance near the coaſt of Bantana, at one time ap-
peared to us to be making for the Eſperance; but it ſoon haſtened
towards the land.
Having lain to for ſome time to wait for the Eſperance, we obſerved
that the current carried us very rapidly through the ſtrait. The tides
very much influence thoſe currents, which, about midnight, and early the
next morning, were very conſiderably abated.
Five canoes were ſailing along the eaſtern ſhore, at a good diſtance
from one another. We obſerved, that one of them had a flag hoiſted,
which we took to be Portugueſe. The wind was carrying us towards the
coaſt of Salwaty, and hindered us from ſteering for thoſe canoes. Betides,
none of them ſeemed inclinable to meet us. Theſe people did not know
our intentions; and perhaps they were apprehenſive that we were of the
number of thoſe Europeans, whoſe avarice induces them to employ every
ſtratagem to entrap them, in order to make ſlaves of them.
High lands, every where covered with large trees, border the Straits of
Pitt,
We lay to all night. At nine o'clock we heard from the weſtetu ſhore
the voice of ſome natives, who ſeemed to addreſs us. At the ſame time a
fire appeared on the weſtern point of the entrance, about the place from
whence a canoe came off, when we entercă the ſtrait.
} 00 WOYAGE IN SEARCIH [1792.
24th. At day break we were very near Paſſage Iſland, and we obſerved
on the coaſt of Bantana, a little village, the inhabitants of which ſeemed
to view us with much indifference.
The Strait of Pitt extends about 2,5000 toiſes from W. S. W. to
E. N. E., and its mean breadth is about 5,000 toiſes. On heaving the
lead from on board our ſhip, no bottom was found with ſeventy-five fa-
thoms of line. But the boat, at 100 toiſes from the ſhore, had from fif-
teen to eighteen fathoms of water, the bottom being calcareous rock.
We went about, in order to avoid ſome ſhoals which we obſerved, on
leaving the ſtrait, very near the coaſt of Bantana. But ſeveral perſons
were of opinion, that there was water enough to carry over both the
ſhips.
The opening of the ſtrait on this end is near 15,000 toiſes in breadth
We obſerved in it two little iſlands, very near the Bantana ſhore.
The weſtern point of Salw aty was found in 18 2' 10" S. lat., and 128°
32° E. longitude.
The conſtancy of the wind from S. S. E. deprived us of all hope of
getting round Mixoal iſland to the eaſtward. We were therefore obliged
to endeavour to make the north of Ceram, in order to get round, by the
weſtern extremity of that iſland, to Amboyna.
About fix o'clock P. M. we were 15,000 toiſes diſtant from the iſland
of Popo, which bore S. 6° W.
The next day we ſteered with that iſland on our ſtarboard, diſtant about
8,000 toiſes. It preſented a flat ſurface, in the midſt of which roſe three
hills, near one another. We had a near view of ſome little iſlands to the
ſouth-weſt, and which extend nearly from the north-eaſt, to the ſouth-
weſt.
The iſland of Popo is in 19 9' 14" S. lat., and 127° 40' E. longitude.
We ſaw the iſlands of Canary and Mixoal, with part of the little
iſlands which ſurround them.
This morning we loſt a young ſailor of the name of Pichot, who dicd
in a ſtate of maraſmus, the conſequence of a dyſentery, under which he
had laboured for ſix months.
26th.
SEP TEMBER.] OF LA PEROUSE. 19 i
20th. This day the poſition of Canary Iſland was found to be in
.1° 51' 30" S. lat., and 127° 35' E. longitude.
27th. Our ſhip was this day ſurrounded with a kind of whales, which
were from twenty to twenty-five fect in length. They were ſufficiently
numerous to afford fiſhers, by thcir oil, an ample compenſation for their
labour and expence.
20th. Very carly this morning we came in fight of the lofty moun-
tains of Ceram, which extending from the S. E. to thc S. S. W., pre-
ſented us with a very fine landſcape.
Such high mountains afford cffectual protećtion to the independence
of their inhabitants. Hence it is, that only a ſmall number of the natives
ſettled on low parts of the iſland, near the ſea, endure the tyranny of the
Dutch.
SEPTEMBER 1ſt. The clouds having been entirely diffipated from the
land of Ceram, we enjoyed the magnificent proſpect of ſeveral chains of
mountains running parallel to each other, in the dire&tion of eaſt and weſt.
The find valleys which ſeparate them, ſupport a luxuriant vegetation, and
have the appearance of the greateſt fertility.
We obſerved many fires on the iſland of Ceram, ſome of them upon
one of the higheſt mountains, which proves that their ſummits are fre-
quented by the natives. That mountain appeared to us to be at leaſt
1,200 toiſes in pc-pendicular elevation.
Availing ourſelves of the calm, we ſent a boat to aſcertain the direction
of the current, which then ſet to the N. E. H. E. at the rate of three
quarters of a knot in the hour. As, among thoſe iſlands, the currents de-
pend very much upon the tides, it may be ſuppoſed that their force and
their direction vary extremely. *
On the approach of night we were about 1,000 toiſes from the coaſt
of Ceram, which becoming leſs elevated, ſeemed to indicate leſs depth of
water on its coaſt. The lead, however, did not reach the bottom with
thirty-ſeven fathoms of line.
Soon after this, we ſaw on the land fide, ſeveral fires, which appeared
to have been kindled by fiſhermen, in order to decoy the fiſh,
! 92 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792,
2d. About noon we deſcripd the iſland of Bonoa, extending from W.
20° S. to S. 48° W. at the diſtance of near 20,000 toiſes. That iſland
is in 2° 58' S. lat., and 125° 50' E. longitude.
We took care frequently to heave the lead, when we were near the
land ; but we had no foundings with ſixty-ſix fathoms of line.
In the evening, a ſtrong land breeze carried us into the channel between
the iſlands of Ceram and Bonoa, in which, by moon light, we obſerved
three ſmall iſlands. Although it was quite calm, the current carried us
almoſt to the other cztremity of the channel.
About midnight, while the air ſcarcely moved, the wavcs which foamed
very near our ſhip, made us apprehenſive that we were approaching to
breakers. But our alarm was of ſhort continuance, having been Only
occaſioned by the rapid current of the tide, which followed the dircótion
of the channel, and oppoſed our progreſs.
5th. We were at a ſmall diſtance from Kilang. The General intended
to paſs between that iſland and Ceram ; but the channel, which at beſt
is but ſtrait, appeared to be additionally obſtructed by rects and a ſand
bank. We therefore made good our paſſage, very cloſe to the weſtward
of KHang. The country preſented beautiful plantations of cocoa-nut
and banana trees, encircling a charming village.
We then continued our courſe between Kilang and Manipa.
About cleven o'clock A. M. the current of the tiduraiſed a rapid ſuc-
ceſſion of waves, tumbling over cach other, in wild conflićt. We were,
in fact, ſeveral times witneſſes of that phoenomenon, which Dampier and
Bougainville compare to the current of a large and very rapid river.
About four P. M. we had doubled the iſland of Manipa, which is not
more than 2,500 toiſes in extent from north to ſouth. Though very
mountainous, that iſland appeared to be populous, and many canoes were
plying along its ſhore. Its latitude is 3° 21' S., and its longitude 125°
47' E. l ..
The iſland of Kilang is in latitude 3°. 17' S. and longitude 125°
31' E. A
4th. A breeze which aroſe in the offing, at ten o'clock A. M. favoured
OUII
º
słPTEMBET.] OF LA PEROUSE, 1 Q3
our progreſs towards the ſouth ; and we ſoon had ſight of a part of the
weſt coaſt of Amboyna, bearing S. S. E. r
The ſouth wind afterwards oppoſed us, and obliged us to tack.
5th. A very freſh breeze from the ſouth-eaſt put an end to our hopes
of gaining our intended anchoring place this day. Our ſcorbutic patients,
whoſe number was rapidly increaſing, and whoſe condition became
daily more alarming, made us ardently wiſh for a favourable wind. Their
diſorder had been greatly influenced by the perpetual rains at Carteret
harbour; and moſt of them were afflićted with great pains in the loins.
One of their firſt ſymptoms was the appearance of whitiſh tubcroles,
frequently as large as a pullet's egg, in different parts of the body, parti-
cularly on the arms, and which were commonly ſucceeded by others on
the lower extremities.
It was remarkable that the ſkins of thoſe patients were not diſcoloured
with what are called ſcurvy ſpots, as that diſeaſe, in hot climates, rapidly
ſuffuſes the cellular membrane with a lymphatic humour, which ſcarcely
alters the colour of the ſkin.
I muſt farther obſerve, that, although ſalted proviſions be one of the
principal cauſes of the ſea-ſcurvy, yet two of our men, who did not ſub-
fiſt on ſuch proviſions, were violently attacked by that diſorder. But one
of them worked in the hold, the humid and ſpoiled air of which is a
powerful cauſe of the malady.
By means of tacking, we came near enough the weſtern extremity of
Amboyna, to allow us to enter the road in the night. By the direction of
Valentin's plan of it, we kept along its eaſtern ſide, at the diſtance of
about 510 toiſes.
As ſoon as we had paſſed Portugueſe-bay, we brought to, and waited
till day light ſhould diſcover to us a proper place to anchor in.
6th. The Eſperance had not made ſuch progreſs as our ſhip; but was
5,100 toiſes to the ſouth-weſt of us, at ſeven o'clock this morning, when
we were within a ſmall diſtance of the principal eſtabliſhment in the
iſland. -
Here I met with the fucus, which I had before obſerved near New
B. b Guinea.
194 s VOYAGE IN SEARCH - [1792.
Guinea. It reſembled very fine tow, croſſed by little pieces, ſomewhat
more than an inch in length ; the filaments are as fine as hairs. They
are frequently ſeen united into a ſort of bundles, and are ſo numerous
that they fully the water in the road.
General Dentrecaſteaux ſent his ſecond lieutenant to wait upon the
Governor of Amboyna, in order to aſk permiſſion to ſtop at his iſland.
The Governor immediately ſummoned the Council, and gave us leave to
come to an anchor; but, as the act which the ſecond licutenant pre-
ſented to them, in the name of the Commander, had not yet been com-
municated to them by the government of Batavia, they were inclined to
impoſe conditions on us, to which we could not conſent. Yet it was not
difficult to make them ſenſible, that we had anticipated, by ſeveral
months, the arrival of their diſpatches from Europe, which ſeldom reach
Amboyna, till eighteen months after their date. It appeared to us, that
their caution originated in the deſire of ſaving themſelves from being
blamed by the government of Batavia, to which that of Amboyna is ſub-
ordinate ; for as ſoon as they had adopted regulations in that reſpect,
they rendered us every ſervice in their power. *
We found that little iſland much better provided than we could have
expcéted, with every article neceſſary for the proſecution of our voyage.
A captain in the ſervice of the Dutch Eaſt India Company was ſent by
the Governor, to point out to us a propcr anchoring place ; and having
made ſome tacks, we let go our anchor about half an hour paſt one P. M.
in twenty-five fathoms water, bottom mud and ſand. The tower of Vic-
tory Fort bore from us E. g." N. the neareſt redoubt W. 35° S, and the
weſtern point of the entrance of the road, W. 20° 30' S. We were about
340 toiſes from the landing place, a wooden wharf, near which there is
water for large ſhips. One of the Company's ſhips then lay at it, taking
in a cargo of cloves. * # -
At the ſame time there were in the road eightcen veſſels under Dutch.
colours; but only one ſhip : moſt of the reſt were brigs and ſloops.
The Eſperance came to an anchor half an hour after us, and bore N. E.
* , , z
! N. of our poſition. * ,
* * C H A P,
sºp'ſ EMI; ER. OF LV L’Elk () (JS). ſ () ,
2
C H. A. P. VII [.
Shay at Amboyna-A Caſhin-Boy belonging to the Rºrº, is ºidºſiy
drowned—Pºſit to the Governor—ſ)#erent Excurſions into the Interior of
, the Iſland—One of the Naturaliſ's fills dangerouſly il/–Dſºrption of his
Diſorder—Agreeable Liquor furniſhed by the Sago Pºthº-Sugar extraćicº
from it—Uſes of the different Parts of that valuable Tree—Mºams by
which the Flying Dragon ſiſtains itſelf in the Air—Explºmation of Maté,
which preſerves the Crops from being plundered—A Dutch Sailor fees info
the Woods for fear of being ſent to Batavia—Dextrous Manner of catching
the Cancer Carcinus—Cabins of the Natives of Amboyma—Their Cloathing,
&c.—Their Method of procuring Fire; and of Fiſhing in the Night—
Culture of Nutmegs and Cloves—A long Bamboo cut ſo as, with a briſk
Gale, to emit a very agreeable Sound—Fiſheries of the Inhabitants—A
Sago-Work—Extraction of its feculae—Diſeaſes common at Amboyna—
Various Reflections on the Iſland and its Inhabitants.
T half an hour paſt three o'clock we ſaluted the place with nine
CA- guns, and the ſame number was immediately returned.
The Commander had engaged all his officers to accompany him, about
five in the evening, on a viſit to the Governor. As I knew nothing of this
appointment, I landed, along with ſome perſons belonging to our ſhip, to
view the town. It is encircled with gardens, in which trees are chiefly
cultivated; becauſe they favour the indolence natural to man in a ſultry
climate, and afford him a profuſion of fruits, with little other trouble than
that of gathering them.
| Beſides the kind of wild bread-fruit tree which we met with there, the
inhabitants aſſured us that there was another which bore a fruit, the ſeeds
of which all miſgive; but that the fruit was only of a middling ſize, and
the tree did not produce a great quantity of it.
Several kinds of banana trees, and many varieties of oranges grow in
B b 2 thoſe
196 VOYAGE IN SEARCH £1792.
thoſe charming gardens; and they produce delicious guavas, papaws, and
different ſpecies of pine-apples (anoites). We obſerved there ſome ſpeci-
mens of the lawſonia inermis, which roſe to the height of ten or twelve
feet. …-
Different odoriferous plants were profuſely ſcattered around. We there
found the chalcas paniculata, the michelia champaca and ſtampaca, and ſe-
veral ſpecies of the levaria. The Arabian jedarnine, my&#anthes ſambac,
riſing amidſt thoſe charming trees, mixed its ſweet odour with their de-
lightful perfumes.
On our return into the town, one of the proteſtant miniſters condućted
us to his houſe, where he entertained us with ſeveral ſorts of ſpirituous
liquors. But limpid water, juſt drawn from the ſpring, was the moſt
agreeable draught to perſons, who had long been confined to brackiſh wa-
ter and ſalted proviſions. This cKCºllent miniſter appeared to be much
ſurpriſed at our being regaled at ſo ſmall an expence. He informed us
that earthquakes were frequent at Amboyna, and that ſome years ago one,
among others, had been very forcibly felt; that it was accompanied with
a hurricane which continued nearly three days, during which time the
ſea had overflowed, and inundated the ground on which the town is
built.
This calamity is the moſt to be dreaded at the change of the monſoons,
and particularly at the commencement of the weſtern monſoon, which
takes place, in thoſe latitudes, in the month of November. r
7th. One of the cabin-boys, of the name of Gabriel Abalen, who ſerved
the table of the marine officers, diſappeared on the night of the 7th. IHe
had been obſerved to be on board all day ; but after dark was called ſe-
veral times in vain. He was a good-natured young man, and in general
very temperate; but, during that day, had drunk ſo mach ſtrong liquor,
as to juſtify ferious apprehenſions concerning him. He probably fell
overboard, and it was known that he could not ſwim. .
All of us had much need of remaining on ſhore, in order to recover
our ſtrength ; and the Governor gave us leave to take lodgings in the
tº Wn.
8th,
sepTEMBER.] OF LA PERQUSE. 197
8th. It was a matter of importance to the naturaliſts to be acquainted
with the Governor of Amboyna, in order that he might facilitate the re-
ſearches which formed the objećt of their miſfion. It was, no doubt, ow-
ing to pure forgetfulneſs, that the Commander of our expedition did not
make us acquainted with the hour of his firſt viſit to the Governor. But
I requeſted him to favour us with an introduction, and we accordingly
ſet out for that purpoſe, about half an hour paſt ſix. M. Bourguelles and
M. Van Smiehl preſſed themſelves upon us as our interpreters.
M. Van Smiehl was a German Baron, who had lately arrived in the
iſland. He was then but aſpiring, as he expreſſed it, to be a ſervant of
the Dutch Eaſt India Company. In the ſequel, we had reaſon to felici-
tate ourſelves that he had not much influence on the Governor; for he
had attempted to perſuade him, that the Regency of Batavia would not
approve of our ſhips being allowed to remain at Amboyna. Yet the Baron
very well knew that, in the preceding year, two ſmall Engliſh veſſels, fit-
ted out at Bombay for the Pelew Iſlands, had been received without the
leaſt difficulty. They had firſt put in at Bourou ; but, finding no provi-
fions there, had been permitted to ſhip ſome at Amboyna ; and thoſe veſ-
ſels were far from having ſo good a title as we had to ſuch indulgence.
But, perhaps, the appearance of foreign veſſels in that road, for two years
fucceſſively, made it neceſſary for the Governor to take cycry precaution,
in order to ſave his reſponfibility. He received us very favourably; but
we were unhappy that he appeared in his ceremonial dreſs on our account;
for he was oppreſſed with heat, under a very heavy coat of black velvet.
Such garments are extremely incommodious near the Line, but the Dutch
Governors wear them, as a prerogative annexed to their ſtation.
Some refreſhment was offered to us. I wiſhed for nothing but water,
and I poured out that which appeared the moſt limpid; but its ſaltiſh
taſte made me think that the domeſtics had, by miſtake, brought ne ſome
medicinal water. He was ºn fact Seltzer-water, which the Dutch here
uſually drink as an agreeable potation; and it coſts them as much as the
beſt theniſh wine. Surely they were not aware of our repugnance to ſuch
a beverage;
1 98 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
a beverage : yet they might have ſuppoſed that, in a torrid climate, and
after a long privation of freſh proviſions, we would not be very fond of
ſwallowing ſalt water.
+ The General propoſed to introduce us to the members of the Council
alſo, to which we readily aſſented; and they gave us a very kind reception.
10th. As we intended to remain at Amboyna, for a month at the leaſt,
I had conveyed to the place where we were to lodge, many things neceſ.
fary for the preparation of the different productions, which I intended to
collect in the iſland. The other naturaliſts and I had agreed to live in the
fame houſe. It was already prepared for our reception, and our things
had been carried into it, when, to our great aſtoniſhment, we found it oc-
cupied by ſome officers from the two ſhips, who, however, knew very
well that we had taken the houſe; but the man who had the key thought
that they belonged to our party. The gentlemen made themſelves very
merry with this pitiful trick, of which we did not think them capable ;
but it was eaſy for us to find other lodgings.
Our apprehenſions reſpecting the cabin-boy, who had diſappeared three.
days before, were but too well founded. His body had remainca at the
bottom of the water all that time; but, about half an hour paſt two in the
afternoon, it was ſeen floating near the ſhip. This ſmall diſtance from the
place where he had fallen into the ſea ſeemed to prove, contrary to the opi-
nion of moſt of the Europeans ſettled at Amboyna, that the rapidity of
the currents in the road is confined to the ſurface merely, and does not
reach the bottom, a circumſtance which, for other reaſons, appears to me
very probable. In fact the currents arc determined by the tides, pouring
their waters into and out of the road, only to reſtore their equilibrium,
which, in theſe circumſtances, is diſturbed to but a ſmall depth from the
ſurface.
This young man was much regretted by all the ſhip's company. Many
exclaimed againſt the carcleſſneſs of thoſe, who had had the charge of
him in his early years, in neglecting to inſtruct him in ſwimming. A few
leſſons in that art would have ſaved the lad's life; and it is to be wiſhcd
º that
sEPTEMBER.] OF LA PEROUSE. 1 90
that his fate may ſerve as an example to others; for I have obſerved with
aſtoniſhment, that many of the ſailors cannot ſwim.
Our obſervatory was this day eſtabliſhed, in the weſtern part of the town.
As it could not be ſeen from the ſhip, it was found inconvenient to be
obliged to go upon the beach, in order to compare the motion of the
watches with that of the clocks.
This weſtern part of the town, in which we alſo reſided, formed the
Chineſe quarter, in which there are few natives of the iſland, and only
one Dutchman. The reſt of the Dutch inhabit the centre of the town,
or its eaſtern part. ->
Our ſtrength was ſo reduced, that we were obliged to content ourſelves,
for ſome days, with ſhort excurſions from the town.
We viewed the garden of the Company, where there is nothing remark-
able but a very convenient bath, which the Governor viſited regularly
every third or fourth day. It is ſupplied with very pure water from a
neighbouring hill. Near it is another bath appropriated to the uſe of the
WOII, CI).
The Dutch at Amboyna are in the habit of bathing every third or
fourth day, when they carefully avoid expoſing themſelves to the exceſ-
five heat, which prevails from eleven in the morning till three in the af-
ternoon. Indeed they are ſeldom ſeen abroad during thoſe hours on other
days. For our parts, we had not leiſure to take ſo many precautions; and
accordingly two of the naturaliſts were attacked with dangerous diſ-
orders.
We many times endeavoured to penetrate into the large plantations of
ſago trees; but the water with which they are floated often forced us to
abandon the attempt. That tree, ſo uſeful for the ſupport of man, forms
a part of the riches of the iſland.
The flat ſtrand, at low water, is covered in many places with a multi-
tude of crabs, of the ſpecies denominated caucer volans, which then emerge
from the holes which they dig in the ſoft ground. This fingular creature,
one of whoſe claws is ſometimes larger than its body, often becomes the
prey of birds. I believe the facility with which its claws are disjoined
* ~ from
200 VOYAGE IN SEARCH 11792.
from its body is the reaſon why one of them is almoſt always much larger
than the other.”
A little excurſion to the ſouth of the town, near the quarter inhabited
by the Europeans, brought us to the tomb of Rumphius. The ſimplicity
of this monument reminded us of the manners of that able obſerver of
nature. It was encircled with the beautiful ſhrub, known by the name
of panax fruticoſium.
We ſaw, in the hands of ſome natives, the pretty lorry of the Philippines.
Theſe, however, were not procured from ſo great a diſtance, but from
ſome iſlands a little to the eaſtward of Amboyna, and chiefly thoſe of Ar-
rou. They had alſo another ſpecies of the lorry, which breeds in the
foreſts of Amboyna, and which differs from the former in its colours,
which are leſs vivid, and not ſo beautifully blended. Moſt of thoſe parrots
pronounced ſome words of the Malayan language.
Towards noon, the heat of the ſun affected us with ſuch a head-ach, as
forced us almoſt always to retire to ſome ſhade, in order to defend our-
ſelves from his direét rays. *
Very early on the morning of the 15th we proceeded towards the weſt;
but about mid-day the heat was ſo very oppreſſive, that we were obliged
to return home.
The naturaliſt who did the duty of chaplain, became ſo dangerouſly
ill, that we could not leave him a ſingle moment for four ſucceſſive days.
The ſymptoms of the malignant fever, with which he was attacked, were
very dreadful. His ſtools were extremely fetid, and accompanied with
frequent vomitings, ſtarting of the tendons, a ſmall pulſe and great proſtra-
tion of ſtrength. The nervous affection of the patient came to ſuch a
height, that every evacuation was attended with a degree of weakneſs
which deprived him of recolle&tion. His lower extremities were affected
with violent ſpaſms, which occaſion.cd very great pain.
* The great diſproportion of the claws to the body, and to one another, is more pro-
bably a diſtinétive charaćteriſtic of this curious ſpecies of crab. I have ſeen many thou-
ſands of them ; but never an individual in which this diſproportion did not exiſt. Places
fituated to leeward of the muddy ſalt-flats, in which thoſe creatures breed, are juſtly
reckoned extremely inſalubrious.—Tranſlator.
Although
sEPTEMBER.j m OF LA PEROUSE. QO !
Although the diſeaſe was exceedingly infeótious, no danger ought to
have prevented us from paying to our diſtreſſed ſhip-mate, all the atten-
tion which he had a right to expect from our friendſhip; and accordingly
we ſuſpended our reſearches in natural hiſtory, till we ſhould ſee him
out of danger.
16th. The next day the ſymptoms became ſtill more alarming. The
pulſe more and more depreſſed, with frequent intermiſſions in its motion,
the hiccups, ſometimes continued for half a quarter of an hour, a great
proſtration of ſtrength and an appearance altogether diſcompoſed, made
us entertain ſerious apprehenſions for the life of our patient.
In the night, the ſymptoms were equally alarming.
About break of day, on the 17th, the pulſe ſenſibly increaſed, and a
certain flexibility in the ſtroke of the artery, afforded us the happy preſage
of an abundant perſpiration, which accordingly ſucceeded in a few hours,
and ſnatched our friend from the gates of death.
. He was in a ſtate of convaleſcence not more than eight days.
This ſpecies of fever, occaſioned by ſtagnant waters, in a tropical cli-
mate, was treated with diluting draughts and antiſpaſmodics. Ether given
frequently, and in ſmall doſes, had a tendency to ſupport the ſtrength of
the patient, while it moderated the violence of the ſymptoms.
M. Hoffman, ſurgeon of the military hoſpital, viſited our patient ſeve-
ral times a day. Our chief ſurgeon alſo regularly attended him.
M. Bourguellés, the Company's treaſurer, perſuaded the Commander
of our expedition, that the united ſkill of all the phyſicians in Europe,
was not equal to that of a Malay doćtor, in the treatment of ſuch diſeaſes.
One of the moſt able of them was therefore called in. He did not pro-
poſe to perform the cure by internal remedies; for he gave the patient
nothing to take; but after rubbing ſlightly the ſkin of different parts of
the body, and properly adjuſting the lower extremities, he pronounced,
with a myſterious air, ſome words, which he ſeemed to addreſs to the
Supreme Being. Then he conjured, as we were told, the evil ſpirits,
whom thoſe iſlanders look upon as the authors of diſeaſes. M. Bourguellés
* C c WQS
2O2 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
was overjoyed to ſee the doćtor operate in his beſt manner, in order to
obtain the deſired ſucceſs. We allowed him to do every thing, from
which no bad conſequences could reſult; but it was our buſineſs to in-
terrupt his operations, when he was proceeding to ſouſe the patient, with
a pail of water, newly drawn from the well. It was but a very little time
before the critical ſweat, which terminated in his recovery.
The Malay doćtor doubtleſs placed all his ſcience in this experiment;
but he did not know that it would have ſuppreſſed the critical perſpira-
tion, of which the pulſe had given us the happy preſage.
Our patient was ſufficiently recovered on the 19th, no longer to require
ſuch affiduous care. We therefore proceeded weſtward into the coun-
try. After having long followed the courſe of a little river, which runs
into the harbour at a ſhort diſtance from the town, we were returning
with a load of fine plants, when, at the approach of night, we met ſome
native fiſhermen who had been equally fortunate, in their way, and who
were proceeding to broil their fiſh. We had the pleaſure of ſeeing them
light up their fire, by means of two pieces of bamboo, rubbed againſt each
other, after being cut in a manner which I ſhall preſently explain.
20th. We employed half of the day in an excurſion towards the ſouth;
and we made haſte to aſcend a hill, where we found ſome young natives
ſetting ſnares to catch birds. They conſiſted of hairs formed into nooſes
and tied to a very long rope, which lay on the ground, and was faſtened
to a wooden peg driven into the earth.
I ſuppoſed that they made uſe of baits to attract the game; but they told
me that they did not, and at the ſame time confeſſed, that they caught
but few birds.
At the bottoms of the hills, we obſerved the fine palm which the na-
tives call the ſago-tree, and which Rumphius has deſcribed (vol. i. fig.
13,) under the name of ſaguerus. From the pedicles of the boughs
(regimes) of this tree, when newly cut, a very agreeable liquor oozed,
which was received in pieces of bamboo, tied to their extremities. In
ſo hot a climate, this liquor very quickly ferments, and would become
acid,
septembra.] OF LA PEROUSE. 2O3
acid, if the inhabitants did not add to it ſome of the wood of the ſºulamea,
which, by the fermentation, is entirely freed from its bitter taſte, and
preſerves the liquor a long time.
One of theſe palms may yield daily, for above two months in the year,
from a gallon and a half to two gallons of this liquor. In order to faci-
litate its efflux, the inciſions of the pedicles are daily renewed.
As the heat of the ſun favours the aſcenſion of the ſap, one would
naturally ſuppoſe that the tree would yield a greater quantity of this
liquor during the day than during the night. The fact, however, is
quite otherwiſe, for the humidity which is abſorbed by the leaves in the
night, mixing with the juice, increaſes its apparent quantity; but that
which is obtained during the day contains much more of the ſaccharine
principle, which is to be extracted.
This extract forms a kind of ſugar, which the Malays call goula itan
(black ſugar.) It is commonly met with in ſmall loaves, which retain
the ſhape of the hemiſpherical veſſels, in which the redundant water is
evaporated. Its colour approaches to that of chocolate; but it is deeper.
On breaking thoſe little loaves, there appear, eſpecially towards the centre,
yellowiſh ſhining grains, a circumſtance which renders it probable, that
there would be no great difficulty to bring it to the degree of cryſtalliza-
tion, neceſſary to convert it into ſugar of a good quality. Such as it is,
the natives ſcarcely uſe any other, that which is extracted from the ſugar-
cane being ſold for ſeven or eight times the price.
From this almoſt excluſive uſe of the goula itan, one would be apt to
conclude, that the ſugar-cane was not produced in the iſland. Almoſt
all the inhabitants, however, devote ſmall portions of their gardens to
this valuable plant; but they content themſelves with regaling on its
juice, which they expreſs by maſtication.
In addition to the agreeable and wholeſome liquor afforded by this fine
palm, the leaves (or limbs,”) are adorned, towards the baſe, with filaments,
* The French word is feuilles. But the Engliſh uſe the word limb, for the ſhoots of
the cocoa-nut tree, the cabbage tree and other ſpecies of palm ; and very properly :
they are too large to be called leaves, and, being deciduous, cannot be called branches,
in the ordinary ſenſe of that term.—Tranſlator.
C c 2 which
$2O 1 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
which the natives convert into good cordage. From the form and black
colour of thoſe filaments, one would take them, at the firſt fight, for horſe-
hair, but they are almoſt twice as large. The young fruit, prepared with
ſugar, makes an excellent comfit.
Some fračiures in the earth near the bottoms of the hills, diſcloſed to
our view the hard, clear, grey ſeatite, which forms their baſes.
22d. In an excurſion which I made to the ſouth-weſt, I found many
rocks of very friable ſhiftus, of a light grey colour, and near a very hard
ſpecies of aſbeſtos.
One would be apt to imagine, that, in an iſland ſo little removed from
the Equator, the preparation of the ſubjećts of natural hiſtory would be
ſingularly facilitated by a quick deſiccation. The contrary, however, was
ſo much the caſe, that I was obliged to make great exertions to ſave the
fruits of my botanical harveſt from ruin. In fact, the air, in paſſing over
the waters of the ocean, becomes charged with a degree of humidity,
which greatly injures ſuch preparations, and the heat of the climate
quickly deſtroys thoſe plants which are moſt retentive of their juices.
23d. At four in the morning, we dircéted our courſe towards the eaſt.
We had ſeveral times to croſs the beautiful rivulet, known by the name
of Vai-Tomon, which enters the ſea a little to the eaſtward of the town.
Its banks were covered with a great number of plants, among which are
ſeveral ſpecies of the juſia'a. I obſerved on the ſurface of the brook, the
ſpecies diſtinguiſhed by the name of the ju/ia a tenella ; and I admired
the precaution taken by nature for its preſervation, in diſpoſing along the
ſtalk large oval tubercles, filled with air, to make the plant ſwim. Thoſe
veſicles are but little different from the air-bladders, with which moſt fiſh
are furniſhed ; only in this inſtance, cach veſicle is compoſed of a great
number of ſmaller ones; becauſe otherwiſe they would be in danger of
being deſtroyed, by the ſhocks of the different bodies brought down by
the ſtream.
Notwithſtanding the ſhade of the ſurrounding trees, the elacarpus mo-
nogynus was covered, even to its loweſt branches, with fine flowers, ele-
gantly figured. In thoſe ſolitary foreſts, where the ſun does not eaſily
penetrate
sepTEMBER.] OF LA PEROUSE. 205
penetrate the thick foliage, it is aſtoniſhing to obſerve the vivid colours of
ſeveral kinds of paraſite plants, of the genus of orchydes, moſtly cleaving
to the trunks of the largeſt trees. In the leaſt crowded ſpots, the tree
of the aralia claſs, deſignated by the name of the cuffonia thyrſford,
adorned the foreſt with their large palmated leaves.
Among the great number of lizards which were buſily purſuing inſe&ts,
I admired the agility of that called the flying dragon (draco volans, Linn.).
During the greateſt heat of the day, that pretty animal rapidly darted from
branch to branch, by extending two membranes in the form of wings, by
means of which it ſuſtains itſelf for ſome time in the air. Nature having
denied it the muſcles neceſſary for the vibration of this kind of wings, it
can only ſpread them out to counteract the rapidity of its deſcent. With
its hind feet it gives its body an impulſe, which not interfering with its de-
ſcenſive motion, ſometimes carries it forward a few toiſes, and to a height
nearly equal to that of the place whence it darted.
In my return, I wiſhed to take ſome branches from the different vege-
tables which grew in a garden belonging to a native of the iſland. But
the guides who accompanied us, apprized me of the danger to which they
believed I would expoſe myſelf. Pointing to a little ſhed, they ſeveral
times repeated, with an air of reſpect blended with fear, the word maté,
before our interpreter could explain to us, that, by this term, which
means a dead perſon, they meant to ignify the ancient poſſeſſor of the
gardcn, who lay buried under the little ſhed, which we ſaw. The natives
are perſuaded, that the ſoul of the deceaſed poſſeſſors wander in the neigh-
bourhood of ſuch places, in order to preſerve their produćts for the pre-
ſent proprietors. They believe, that any other perſon who ſhould take
any part of ſuch products would die within the year ; and ſo generally
is this belief diffuſed, that ſeldom does any inhabitant allow himſelf to
touch the property of another; ſo that this maté is a bugbear, which al-
moſt always inſures the harveſt to its legitimate poſſeſſor.
The General went on board to review the ſhip's company, and he pro-
cured advances for them all.
25th. My collečtion was already ſo numerous, and called for ſo much
Call tº,
2öö VOYAGE IN SEARCH | 1792.
care, that I ſpent almoſt the whole of the 24th in preparing them ; but
the next day Citizen Riche and I aſcended the river called Baton Gantom,
which empties itſelf into the road on the weſt ſide of the town. It is
confined in a very deep channel, excavated by its current between the
hills, which in many places are of difficult acceſs. We propoſed to aſ-
cend as far as we could, endeavouring to follow exactly the windings of
the banks; but their ſteepneſs obliged us to take to the channel itſelf,
where the water was ſeldom leſs than eighteen inches in depth.
We had advanced but a few ſteps, when we met a Dutch ſailor, who
had made his eſcape from a large ſhip loaded with cloves, and which was
on the point of ſailing for Batavia. The dread of periſhing by the con-
tagious malady ſo fatal to Europeans, who remain there even for a very
ſhort time, had made this unhappy man reſolve to conceal himſelf in the
woods till the ſhip ſhould have ſailed. We lamented his unfortunate
ſituation ; but little did we foreſee that the place which he dreaded ſo
much, was to terminate our own peregrinations.
On the banks of this river, there grew in abundance, a new ſpecies of
begonia, remarkable for the ſmallneſs of all its parts.
A beautiful granite, of a fine grain, formed the baſe of thoſe hills.
Quartz, generally very white, was there in ſome caſes tinged by the green
ſteatite, and in others by iron, which gave it the colour of ruſt. Mica
was there diſſeminated in a very uniform manner, and we found ſchorl
of a black colour, in minute ſlender fragments.
While we were employed in collecting objećts of natural hiſtory, our
guides took the opportunity of providing themſelves with a repaſt of a
ſpecies of crab, (cancer carinus), with which this little river abounds.
Their manner of catching them gave us a good opinion of their ingenuity.
This crab commonly ſecks its food in the cleareſt water, which it
ſlowly traverſes, but the inſtant it is approached, it moves off with ex-
treme rapidity. The iſlanders, however, managed to catch a great num-
ber of them by the cycs. Having tied to the end of a wand a horſe hair
with a nooſe, they render themſelves maſters of the animal by paſſing this
mooſe over the baſis of the ſpherical part of the eye. When they miſs
their
sEPTEMBER.] - OF LA PEROUSE. 2O7
their aim, the crab ſeldom fails to return, and in the end is almoſt always
taken.
Having early conſumed all our proviſions, we hoped to find ſome na-
tives towards the latter part of the day, who would ſell us ſome. It was
about three in the afternoon, when we advanced confidently towards a
ſmall houſe, near the bank of the river. But what was our aſtoniſhment,
when, to every thing we aſked for, we received no other anſwer than
tarda 3 for thus the miſtreſs of this little habitation ſignified, that ſhe
could not furniſh us with any of the articles which we deſired. Yet we
took great pains to aſſure her, that we would pay her exactly for every
thing ſhe gave us. We were the more ſurpriſed at this pretended po-
verty, as the appearance of the natives announced abundance. In the
ſequel I learned, that thoſe peaceable people have not always reaſon to
be ſatisfied with the condućt of the Europeans, who govern their iſland.
They thought their ſafeſt way was, not to truſt to our promiſes. A few
glaſſes of arrack, however, and ſome trifling natters which we diſtributed
among them, at laſt gained us their confidence.
They invited us to fit down under a ſhed formed by an elongation of
the roof of the cabin. Crabs caught in the little river were ſet before
us in abundance. They roaſted for us potatoes and yams, and regaled us
with the wine of the ſago-palm, ſlightly fermented This liquor, which,
when newly drawn from the tree, is called ſigour motida, and aer ſiguero
mouda, is much more agreeable that the milk of the cocoa-nut. The
girl who was preparing our repaſt, to a figure and appearance extremely
pleaſing, joined an air of ſincerity which gave charms to the intereſt which
ſhe inſpired. Having brought us ſome fruits, ſhe immediately went and
feated herſelf behind her mother, from whence ſhe occaſionally ſtole a
glance at us, to ſatisfy her curioſity.
This frugal repaſt was not without its charms. To our reflections on
the life of a man who undertakes long voyages, were added the pleaſing
idea which we had formed of the happineſs of thoſe iſlanders, whoſe wants
nature has ſupplied with ſo liberal a hand.
The conſtruction of their houſes is adapted to the beauty of the cli-
climate ;
208 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
mate ; and the lightneſs of their materials renders it unneceſſary to dig
their foundations down to the rock.
As the inhabitants never experience ſevere weather, the walls are con-
ſtructed in ſuch a manner as to allow a free paſſage to the air. They
conſiſt of a ſort of paling, frcquently formed of twigs of bamboo, placed
very near each other.
The cottage of our hoſt, which occupied a ſpace thirteen feet in length,
and about ten in breadth, inſtead of bamboos, was wattled with the ſtems
of the ſago-tree limbs (feuilles), which, though near together, left ſome
intervals, through which the external air had free acceſs into the habita-
tion.
Thoſe ſtems, though very light, have a great deal of ſolidity, being
covered with a very hard bark. The heart of them conſiſts of a fungous
ſubſtance, which the inhabitants uſe inſtead of corks.
Every part of this habitation was derived from the ſago-tree, even to
the roof, the top of which being about ten feet in height, was covered
with the leaves (folioles) of that valuable tree. They were plaited and
fixed to a pole, thus forming rectangles often the whole length of the
houſe, and about eight inches in breadth, and as they overlapped each
other, they were impenetrable by the hardeſt rain.
The two ſides of the roof were inclined about forty-five degrees, and a
part of it formed at the door a little ſhed, where the family enjoyed the
freſh air, and where alſo they drcſled their vićtuals; for, as the cottage
was not furniſhed with a chimney, a fire would have rendercq it uninha-
bitable.
It appeared ſtrange that thoſe people, who loved to be at their caſe,
ſhould ſleep on a ſort of trellis formed of ſticks, two inches aſunder.
This was but a hard bed, notwithſtanding the mats with which it was
covercq ; but it affolded them the pleaſure of the freſh air, which circu-
lated freely in the interſticcs. It was clevated about cighteen inches
above the ground, and below it was depoſited a part of the houſehold
utenſils, conſiſti, g of three carthen pots of their own manufacture, ſome
ſquare bottles, which they had bought from the Europeans, and ſpoons
which
SEPTEMBER.] OF LA PEROUSE. 2: . )
which they had formed of the large ſhells common at Amboyna. Among
thoſe ſhells we recognized different ſpecies of the nautilus, many pearl-
oyſters, and alſo a kind known by the name of pinna ridis.
We obſerved beſides, under the bed, a pick-axe and a large knife, in
the form of a butcher's chopping-knife, called fiſſinſ in the Malayan ſan-
guage. hey had both thoſe inſtruments from the Europeans.
As the temperature of the climate renders cloathing unneceſſary, their
wardrobe contains nothing but what is ſtrictly requiſite to conceal the
parts which decency forbids them to expoſe to view.
A pair of drawers, which does not reach lower than the middle of the
thigh, or a bit of blue ſtuff tied round the loins, is the only cloathing of
the men who are enployed in agriculture.
The dreſs of the women is naturally more expenſive. They wear a kind
of ſhift of the ſame ſtuff which deſcends to the middle of the leg, and is
faſtened round the loins with a girdle.
Our preſents had excited their gratitude. The girl, having diſappeared
for a few minutes, returned to offer us ſome odoriferous flowers; but as
ſhe wanted a ſtring to form them into noſegays, we had an opportunity
of obſerving the readineſs, with which thoſe natives obtain a fibrous ſub-
ſtance from the baſtard aloe, called agave vivipara. The maſter of the
houſe ran out and cut a leaf of that plant, and placing it upon his thigh,
in order to ſplit it with his large knife, and to free it from the pith, he
ſoon produced a parcel of filaments, as long as the leaf, and as ſtrong as
thoſe of our beſt hemp.
In our return, we met a ſlave whoſe decrepitude cycited our curioſity.
But it was to no purpoſe that we aſked him, how old he was; for he could
uot ſatisfy us in that particular, as he knew nothing about it. It appeared
ftrange to us, that a man ſhould not have counted the number of years
which he had paſſed in ſlavery !!
28th. This day I took an airing in the road, in a canoe with a double
outrigger. Some ſportſmen, taking the opportunity of this rapid con-
veyance to the eaſtward of the town, joined our party. We followed the
right bank of the road, at a little diſtance from the ſhore. The water was
D d * {Y
2. l O - VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
ſo limpid as to diſcloſe to our view, at the depth of three and four fathoms,
the bottom compoſed of white coral, on which we could perfeótly diſtin-
guiſh the ſpecies of ray, or thornback, remarkable for its large circular
ſpots of azure blue, as well as ſeveral other fiſhes exhibiting the moſt bril-
liant colours. There was a Papow on board, who had the addreſs to catch
ſeveral of them. Standing in the fore part of the canoe, he darted his
ſpear, conſiſting of a bamboo pointed with iron, at the fiſh which was
his object. The ſpear, from its lightneſs, aſcended nearly in the ſame
direétion; ſo that though it had gone to a great depth, our Papow ſeldom
failed to catch it, notwithſtanding the way we were making.
When we were about 1,500 toiſes from the town, we admired the
charming ſituation of the Governor's country houſe, at the foot of a
chain of mountains, which terminate in a gentle declivity near the road.
A cottage of the natives, half way up this ſlope, encircled with clove
and banana trees, added greatly to the beauty of this rural ſcene. -
The depth diminiſhed ſo much that, though our canoe ſcarcely drew
more than eight inches of water, we were obliged to keep off ſhore, in
order to avoid the rocks.
At the diſtance of more than 5,100 toiſes from the town, after paſſing
ſome fiſhing boats, we landed on the right bank near a cottage, the
owner of which furniſhed us with as many cocoa-nuts as we wiſhed.
Some ſailors who were with us, finding their liquor too ſweet, mixed
with it as much brandy as ſuited their taſte, and we had the ſatisfaction
of obſerving, that this potation was by no means diſagreeable to our hoſt.
After this breakfaſt, each of us entered on the buſineſs which had
brought him thither ; and we agreed to rendezvous at the place where
we landed.
For my own part, I reſolved to make an attempt on the mountains to
the eaſtward. *
I followed a path very much frequented by the natives, leaving it,
however, and penctrating into the foreſt at every clear interval, which fa-
cilitated my entrance.
In ſeveral places the earth had ruſhed down, and expoſed to view the
hard
SEPTEMBER.] OF LA PEROUSE, Q
hard grey ſtone, which formed the baſes of thoſe mountains. I had alſo
obſerved the ſame kind of ſtone on the ſhore of the road-ſtead, along
which we had juſt been walking.
Among the different ſhrubs which grew on the low lands, I obtained a
very fine mixed ſpecies of the genus cony/a, remarkable for having three
principal nerves on each leaf, as in ſeveral ſpecies of the melºftonia. It had
alſo the general appearance of the plants of that genus, to which I ſhould
have been inclined to refer it, if I had not ſeen the flower.
The phalanger of Buffon (didelphis orientalis, Linn.) inhabited the foot
of thoſe mountains. I had a near view of ſeveral of them as they rapidly
flew paſt me.
When I had gained about 150 toiſes of perpendicular elevation, I re-
marked a total change in the nature of the ſoil. Beds of calcareous ſtones,
perfectly pure and white, crowned thoſe high grounds, which now pre-
ſented a great cxtent of very level ſurface.
There I ſaw a garden furrounded with a paling of bamboo, and very
well cultivated, although at a great diſtance from any habitation. There
appeared to be no poſſible means of watering it; yet the vegetation was
very vigorous, owing to the humidity of the atmoſphere in this elevated
ſituation. Large fields were allotted to the culture of the ſpecies of pi-
mento, called capſicum groſſium, of which the inhabitants of the iſland con-
fume a great quantity.
A little ſhed on the weſt ſide of the garden afforded us its ſhelter, and
in it my thirſty guides found a ſupply of good water in long bannboos,
which appeared to be deſigned for ſome other purpoſe. This water had
been brought from the foot of the mountain, and we made as free with it
as if it had been our own.
Although it was very hot, they thought proper to kindle a fire. I was
far from foreſceing the intention of thoſe people, who, like the greateſ:
Havages, took pleaſure in ſeeing the flames devour the dry plants in the
clear ſpots. Preſently one of my guides had the imprudence to ſet fire to
a large buſh. The air was then very calm ; but a light breeze ſoon after
springing up, drove the flames towards the garden, and I had the mortifi-
D d ºn ratio."
2 lº VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
cation to ſee a part of its paling conſumed, without being able to ſtop the
progreſs of the conflagration.
The manner in which thoſe natives produce fire, well deſerves to be de-
ſcribed. Their method is not ſo expeditious as a good flint and ſteel ; but
they have the advantage of finding their material almoſt every where, a
piece of bamboo being ſufficient.
The following is the way in which they perform it. They ſplit into two
equal parts, a bit of bamboo eighteen inches in length. In one of the parts
they form a longitudinal ſlit, and cut the other tapering to about an inch
and a half in breadth. They put ſcrapings of the ſame wood under the
ſlit, and in the concavity of the largeſt piece, which they place horizon-
tally, with the convex ſide uppermoſt ; then introducing the other piece
into the middle of the ſlit, where there is a notch to receive it, and ſup-
porting it ſtrongly, they give it the motion of a ſaw, and in leſs than a mi-
nute the ſcrapings catch fire.
The canarium commune overtopped all the trees in thoſe elevated foreſts.
I was ſurprized to ſee the calcareous rock naked in the midſt of thoſe ex-
tenſive woods, the rotten remains of the trees not having yet covered
them with a ſtratum of vegetative mould ; and the rents contained no-
thing but ſtones, which time had broken aſunder. Thoſe ſtones reſem-
bled vaſt plates, of the ſame nature with thoſe which I had many times
obſerved in our Alps. Their numerous cavities ſeemed to indicate, that
the moſt ſoluble parts of them had been waſhed away by the rain.
Having been driven from this ſpot by the ſmoke of the ſpreading con-
flagration, I proceeded towards the ſouth-weſt, where I found, in the
midſt of the woods, many individuals of the nam 11am of the Malays (cy-
mometra cauliflora, Linn.), which they raiſe in their gardens, on account of
its fruit, the taſte of which approaches to that of a good apple, ſlightly
acid. r
Having followed the banks of a rivulet, which diſcharged its waters near
the place where we landed, curioſity induced me to viſit a cottage ſituated.
near the ſea. There I found an old man, who, contrary to the cuſtom of
thoſe iſlanders, wore a long beard. He was boiling, in a large earthen
veſſel,
SEPTEMBER. OF LA PEROUSE 2, 13
veſſel, ſome ſhell fiſh, which he had collected at low water, among the
mangrove trees near his habitation. The reſpectable old man, without
being ſurprized at my viſit, immediately invited me to partake of his re-
paſt. A long ſplinter of a ſago-tree limb was put into my hand, and I
imitated my hoſt in uſing it to dig out of the ſhell the fiſh, which were ſet
before me on a banana-leaf.
The old man's wife ſoon after joined us, and I ſhould have been ex-
tremely ſurprized at the prodigious inequality of their ages, if I had not
learned that thoſe iſlanders place their happineſs in marrying very young
girls. Their phyſiognomy becomes ſingularly animated whenever they
ſpeak of a young woman (in Malay, parampouang mouda), and, on the
other hand, it is truly diverting to obſerve the frightful grimace which
diſcompoſes their whole countenance, when they ſpeak of an old woman,
(ſarampoñang tota). *
I endeavoured to make the old man ſenſible of the extreme inſalubrity
of his ſituation ſo near to mangrove-trees; where the ſtagnant waters
might affect him with violent diſorders. But I could not prevail on him
to conſent to remove his cottage to a more elevated ſpot. All the anſwer
which he made was, That the ſea afforded him his livelihood.
The palm-tree, named hiºd, grew in thoſe ſalt marſhes. Its leaves are
of great uſe in covering the cottages.
The hunters had already arrived at the place of rendezvous. We were
all extremely thirſty ; and we expected to procure cocoa-nuts, with as
much facility as when we came to the ſame place in the morning. But
the owner of thc garden was abſent, and there was no one in the cottage
but his wife. It was in vain that we endeavoured to prevail upon her to
fell us ſome cocoa-nuts, for which we would have made one of our guides
climb the trees. She gave us to underſtand that ſhe had not liberty to ſell
them to us. Beſides, not one of our guides would have dared to climb the
trees in the abſence of ille owner, and, if he had not come home, we
ſhould have had no cocoa-nuts; for he had placed among the trees a
mate, for which our guides ſhowed as much reſpect as for the one I have al-
ready mentioned. This one was alſo in the form of a little ſhed, the roof of
which
2 I At VOYAGE IN SEARCH º [1792.
which might be about twenty-ſix inches in height, covered with the
leaves of the nipa palm, and ſupported by four poſts, about eighteen
inches diſtant from each other.
From the middle of the roof was ſuſpended by a rope a piece of bam-
boo, about eight inches in length, and covered with half a cocoa-nut. In
this bamboo were contained, as I was told, ſome things which had been
the property of the perſon who was buried under the little ſhed. I com-
plied with their requeſt not to touch them ; for I did not wiſh to treat
their uſages with diſreſpect. -
When it was near ſun-ſet, we went on board, in order to return to the
town. Our Papow gave us freſh proofs of his dexterity, by transfixing,
while we were making conſiderable way, different kinds of fiſh.
It was dark when we arrived at the town.
I was employed for moſt of the 20th, in preparing and deſcribing the
objects which I had collected on the preceding day.
One of the fruits of my excurſion was the beautiful lizard, called lacerta
Amboineſs. I obſerved that it changed its colour like the chameleon :
it was moſt commonly green, but it frequently aſſumed a deep brown.
This animal is eaſily taken ; for it allows one to approach it near cnough
to catch it by the extremity of the tail, which is of an extraordinary
length.
In the evening I repaired to the beach, in order to examine the marine
productions thrown on ſhore by the waters, and there I remained till night.
I ſaw many fiſhermen in their canoes near the beach, and who, taking
advantage of the darkneſs, decoyed the fiſh by torches held near the fur-
face of the watcr. Piccos of wood, ſupported by the levers of thc double
outrigger of the canoc, produced a very clear flame. One of the fiſhermen
attended thoſe torches, and carefully diffuſed their light, which it was
eaſy for him to do, by only letting bits of the flaming wood fall into the
water; while others wereem ployed in encircling with their ncts, the fiſhes
collected from afar by this brilliant light: we did not heſitate to conclude,
from what we obſerved, that thoſe iſlanders were very ſkilful fiſhermen.
Very carly in thc morning of the 30th, we ſet out to ſurvey the other
ſhore
SEPTEMBER.] OF LA PEROUSE. 2 15
ſhore of the road. It was neceſſary for us to go about 3,000 toiſes by
water, and this tranſit was dangerous in a canoe, whoſe outriggers were
not ſufficiently ſtrong to preſerve the equilibrium of the veſſel, when loaded
with ſo great a weight. We were anxious to viſit thoſe places which we
had not yet viewed ; and we went on board without knowing all the dan-
ger of our enterprize. But preſently we ſaw one of the outriggers dip un-
der the water, when one of us leaned a little, and without the greateſt
care we ſhould have been overſet. If this accident had happened, to-
wards the middle of the road, it would have been difficult, on account of
the rapidity of the current, even for the moſt expert ſwimmer of our num-
ber, to have reached the ſhore. The danger diminiſhed as we approached
the place where we wiſhed to land. But we were much aſtoniſhed at
the imprudence of one of the people belonging to the Eſperance, who,
although he could not ſwim, and was certain of being drowned, if we
had been overſet, ſeveral times deranged the equilibrium of our little veſ-
ſel. At laſt, however, we got on ſhore.
The coaſt was there covercd with the ſhrub called ſavola lobel. It
delights in ſuch a ſituation ; and I alſo found it in New Ireland.
At high water, the ſea waſhed the root of the beautiful tree whoſe de-
nomination, heriticra, recalled the name of one of our moſt able botaniſts,
Citizen l'Heritier.
In proceeding weſtward I found, among the ſhells upon the beach,
ſome lavas very porous, but yet too heavy to ſwim in water. As I had
not obſerved, in the inland parts of the iſland, any ſtones which had been
ſubjećted to the action of fire, it ſeems reaſonable to ſuppoſe, that thoſe
had been brought into their preſent ſituation, by the waters, agitated by
ſome volcanic eruption ; for earthquakes are frequent in thoſe parts, and
the inhabitants ſtill mention with dread, one, among others, which, twelve
years before our arrival in their iſland, had been attended with great de-
vaſtation: the houſes could not be inhabited for ſeveral days, and ſome of
them were even overthrown.
In the iſland of Banda, a little to the eaſtward of Amboyna, there is an
open volcano.
At
Q 16 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
At Karuku a little iſland, alſo to the caſtward of Amboyna, and at the
diſtance of about 5,100 toiſes from it, are hot ſprings which, according
to the accounts of ſeveral Europcans, will completely coagulate an egg
in five minutes. The hot vapour which iſſues from thoſe waters does
not injure the trees which are continually bathed in it; but on the con-
trary they exhibit proofs of a vigorous vegetation. -
This little iſland of Karuku is principally allotted to the culture of the
clove-tree.
I found, in the gardens of the natives ſome nutmeg-trees, the largeſt
of which did not exceed twenty-two feet in height, the trunk having
been about three inches in diameter. They already bore a great quantity
of fruit. The nutmeg-tree delights in the ſhade of large trees; and theſe
enjoyed the ſhelter of the canarium commune. The ſame tree affords
them its ſhade, in the iſland of Banda, which is chiefly applied to their
culture by the Dutch.
The Council of the Dutch Eaſt India Company, which is eſtabliſhed at
Batavia, finding the produce of the nutmeg plantations at Banda ſuf-
ficient for exportation, and wiſhing, beſides, to prevent all contraband
trade in that precious commodity, ordered, ſome years before we arrived
in Amboyna, all the nutmeg-trees in that iſland to be deſtroyed. This
order was exccuted, and very few of the devoted trees eſcaped deſtruction;
but a hurricane which happened the ſame year, deranged all their avari-
cious calculations. It complcated in Banda, the devaſtation which the
Council had exccutcd at Amboyna.
The ſame Council afterwards iſſued orders to cndeavour to repair the
bayock which they had committed at Amboyna. They now wiſhed to
re-cſtabliſh the culture of the nutmeg there. Hence thoſe which we
ſaw near the road, are ſtill very young. Yet we obſerved ſeveral in the
gardens of the town, and cven oppoſite to the houſe of the Commander
of the place, which were much larger, having eſcaped the deſtructive
orders iſſued by the government at Batavia.
We found the beautiful laurel, called laurus culilahan, which yields,
by diſtillation, an aromatic oil very much in requeſt. The natives know
how
octop ER.] * C) H' LA PEſ OUS 1. Q. i 7
how to extraćt this precious oil, and make it an article of com-
IYY. CrCC.
The largeſt clove trees which we ſaw in this excurſion, were not above
twenty-two feet in height; and their trunks not above eight inches in
thickneſs. The natives are obliged to deliver their produce to the Bºtch
Company, for about the hundred and fiftieth part of the price for which
it is ſold in Europe. We ſaw great quantities of the cloves wºich the
natives had ſpread on mats, under their ſheds, in order to be properly
dried before being delivered to the agents of the Company. Thoſe people
took ſpecial care not to expoſe them to the rays of the fun, which would
have diffipated part of the eſſential oil of that excellent aromatic.
Being upon the beach, I heard the ſound of wind inſtruments, the
harmony of which was ſometimes very juſt, and blended with diffonances
by no means diſpleaſing. Thoſe fineand harmonious foundsſeemed to come
from ſuch a diſtance, as to make me believe, for ſome time, that the na-
tives were entertaining themſelves with their muſic, on the other ſide of
the road, and near 5,000 toiſes from the place where I ſtood. My ear
was much deceived as to the diſtance; for I was not fifty toiſes from the
inſtrument. It was a bamboo, at leaſt ſixty feet in height, fixed in a ver-
tical poſition, cloſe to the ſea. Between every joint was a hole near an
inch and 2-1 oths long, and ſomewhat above half an inch broad. Theſe
holes formed ſo many mouths, which, by the action of the wind emitted
agreeable and varied ſounds. As the joints of this long bamboo were very
numerous, care had been taken to pierce it in different directions; ſo
that from whatever point the wind blew, it always met with ſome holes.
The ſound of this inſtrument more nearly reſembles that of the harmo-
nica, than any other to which I can compare it.
The experience which we had had of our canoe, in traverſing the road,
had given us the hint to prepare it better for our return. Accordingly the
outriggers were ſtrengthencá, and we proceeded towards the town, with-
out any apprehenſions of being drowned.
October 2d. Some hours of this day were employed in viſiting the
Governor's cabinet of natural hiſtory, in which I admired a numerous
F e collection
218 * * VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
collection of fine papilios, in perfect preſervation. I obſerved many du-
plicates of very rare ones, and a large box cntirely filled with the beauti-
ful ſpecies called papilio agamemnon. This cabinet alſo contained a great
variety of ſhells, among which were above twenty ſcalata (turbo ſcalaris,
Linn.)
The Secretary of the Council alſo poſſeſſed great colle&tions of this
kind. A taſte for procuring objects of natural hiſtory is very much diffuſed
among the Dutch, who find it a powerful mean of obtaining them pre-
ferment, when they know how to addreſs their acquiſitions, properly, to
perſons poſſeſſing influence with the Council at Batavia, or in Europe.
Captain Huon obtained many rare ſhells from the Secretary of the
Council, who gave him, among others, one of the moſt precious and
ſcarce ſhells, the glazed or glaſſy nautilus, (la nautile vitrée) which he has
made over by will to the muſeum of natural hiſtory in Paris.
3d. The next day we proceeded towards the entrance of the road, fol-
lowing the ſhore in the canoe which we commonly made uſe of.
At the ſame time, the tide riſing with great force, produced a rapid cur-
rent, particularly towards the middle of the road. Notwithſtanding the
ſkill of our paddlers, we would have gained nothing by ſtruggling againſt
ſuch an obſtacle. As its force was much diminiſhed towards the ſhore,
we kept as near it as we could, a manoeuvre which was much facilitated
by the ſhallowneſs of our veſſel.
I was at ſome pains in obſerving the great diminution of the current
towards the ſhore; but I did not cype&t to find it ſo conſiderable. The
principal cauſe appeared to me to be the proximity of the land, which de-
tained the water by a kind of adheſion; whereas, at a greater diſtance, the
ſea being much deeper, its upper ſtrata, which form the current, glide
with facility upon the lower, and thus the frićtion is cxtremely dimi-
niſhed.
While there is a very rapid current towards the middle of the road,
there is frequently none cloſe to the ſhore; and ſometimes one in a con-
trary direétion, which ought to be aſcribed to the different points of land,
protruding into the ſea.
In
octop ER.] OF LA PEROUSE. 2 1 0
In a deep part, bordered by a ſandy bottom, we obſerved ſome fiſhing
places, formed by a paling of bamboos ſo cloſe together, that the fiſh
could not eſcape through it. The entrance was dry at low water; ſo
that the fiſhes which were thus encircled at high water could not get out
when the tide had a little ſubſided. Beſides, the fiſhes, which commonly
prefer the deepeſt water, advanced towards the farther part of the inclo-
ſure, where the depth, even at low water, was ſtill about three feet. This
reſervoir impriſoned thoſe fiſhes which were moſt eaſily decoyed, and man
was not the only fiſher who frequented it; for we obſerved there ſeveral
ſpecies of herons. Our preſence drove ſome of them away, but others
ſtill remained, with their long legs deeply immerſed in the water, pa-
tiently waiting till the fiſhes came within their reach. The fiſhing martens
are alſo frequent attendants at thoſe incloſures; ſome of them were
perched upon the bamboos, from whence we ſaw them dart, from time
to time, upon the fiſhes, which afforded them an abundant ſupply of
food.
We then haſtened to a point of land ſufficiently advanced into the ſea,
to induce the Dutch to build a redoubt upon it. But they had abandoned
this fortification, as well as another which we obſerved on the oppoſite
ſhore nearer to the entrance of the road. We went on board at a ſmall
diſtance from the former redoubt, and ſteered for the country-houſe of
M. Hoffman, chief ſurgeon of the hoſpital, with whom we had formed
an acquaintance.
After making a haſty breakfaſt, at which ſpices were ſerved up with a
profuſion, which made us remember we were in the Moluccas, I went to
view the vicinity of this habitation, where a marſhy ſituation afforded me,
among a great number of other plants, the beautiful ſpecies of acanthus,
with leaves like thoſe of holly (acanthus ilicifolius, Linn.), and alſo its va-
riety, with whole leaves.
We then returned towards the redoubt, the form of which, on the ſide
next the ſea, is ſemi-circular, being not more than eighty-one toiſes in
length and fifty-one in breadth. The walls are above ſix feet in height,
above three in thickneſs on the land ſide, and fix towards the road, with
cmbraſures to receive forty pieces of cannon.
E e 2 While
22O: voyage IN SEARCH [1792.
While I was on ſhore, Citizen Riche ſet our canoe-men a diving, and
they frequently brought him up very valuable marine produćtions. The
road of Amboyna abounds with beautiful ſhells, which are ſeldom met
with elſewhere ; the moſt delicate being protected, in its numerous deep
receſſes, from the motion of the waters, are often found in perfeót preſer-
Vation. -*
Our Papow proved to be not only the beſt diver, but the merrieſt of
all our guides. His humour, which was truly laughable, very much di-
verted his comrades. He acted ſeveral ſcenes of comedy, which he
told us was a favourite amuſement among his countrymen. One of thoſe
which he repeated the ofteneft, becauſe it produced general, applauſe, re-
preſented a woman ready to lye in. He entertained us, when we were
taking ſome refreſhment, with the fineſt part of the piece, and he ſeemed
to do great juſtice to the character.
Some of the inhabitants of the South Sea Iſlands ačt ſimilar comedies.
Captain Cook, in his ſecond voyage, relates, that at the Society Iſlands,
he was preſent at ſuch an exhibition.
I took the opportunity, while our Papow was in ſo good a humour, to
aſk him, What method the people of his country took to ſeparate the
umbilical cord He told me, that they burnt it, above an inch from the
body, a mode of operation which has been practiſed by ſome ſurgeons,
and that, for this purpoſe, the Papows employed a well kindled torch.
We re-embarked, in order to proceed farther, always following the
ſame bank. Some of the erythrina cora/lodendron made themſelves re-
markable by their fine bright red flowers.
On the ſteep ſides of the hard grey rocks, which formed the neighbour-
ing ſhore, grew ſome trees of the vacoua (pandanus odorati/ima), which
overhanging the ſea, gave thoſe places a very pićtureſque appearance.
The large ſpherical fruit, depending from the extremities of their
branchcs, increaſed their natural inclination towards the water, the ſur-
face of which was always covered with ripe fruit.
Theſe delightful ſcenes gave us reaſon to be pleaſed with our excurſion,
Having paſſed ſome time there, we re-embarked, in order to advance
ſtill nearer to the entrance of the road.
A charming
october.] OF LA PEROUSE. 22. I
A charming ſituation, in the vicinity of a cottage occupied by a na-
tive, induced us to go on ſhore. The maſter of the cottage was abſent;
but we found in this peaceful habitation, a young woman, encircled by
her children, whom ſhe was amuſing, with a very ſimple ſtringed inſtru-
ment, which ſhe accompanied with her agreeable voice. It was formed
of a joint of bamboo, about ſix inches in length, covered at one end with
a piece of parchment, like a drum. Three ſtrings of bark, each of them
ſtretched by a bridge, were fixed to the two extremities of this cylinder,
which was placed upon the knees. The two moſt diſtant chords ſounded
an octave, and the intermediate one a fifth with the fartheſt chord. A cir-
cle at each extremity, about 4-1 oths of an inch in height, ſupported other
ſtrings, intended to render the inſtrument more ſonorous. Theſe ſtrings
were more or leſs ſtretched, by a ſlider, which connected two and two
together, and which could be moved at pleaſure, through almoſt their
whole length, as in our drums. A little ſlip of bamboo bark, put the
chords ſupported by the bridges into vibration. The accompaniment,
although monotonous, ſeemed infinitely pleaſing to our guides, whoſe
ears were accuſtomed to this ſpecies of muſic.
This habitation was encircled with nutmeg-trees, not far advanced in
growth, but already well proportioned; although at Amboyna, their cul-
ture is not generally reliſhed. The vicinity formed a beautiful orchard,
in which the brilliant flowers of the ciſgenia malaccenſis attracted our ad-
miration; and there we alſo partook of the agreeably acid fruit of the
averrhoa carambola.
The ſhore was embelliſhed, almoſt to the edge of the water, by a large
plantation of the ſpecies of tree called aſ hiſtomeſte grandiflora, which
bears the largeſt flower of all the leguminous plants, and which is com-
monly of a beautiful white, but alſo ſometimes red. The natives fre-
quently eat it boiled, and in ſome caſes they uſe it raw, by way of a fallad.
The bark of this tree yields a bitter extract, which they adminiſter as
a tonic in fevers. , &
The day was drawing to a cloſe, and the current ſet againſt us. We
were therefore obliged to keep cloſe in ſhore, and it was night before we
got back to the town. .
2^2 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
4th. As ſoon as I had diſpoſed, in the moſt convenient manner, the
produce of my laſt excurſions, I went towards the ſouth-eaſt, to a little
diſtance from the town, and I ſtill found plants to add to my collections.
At my return, I ſaw a white negro, of Papow origin. His hair was white,
and his ſkin fair, and marked in ſome places with red, like thoſe of the
red-haired Europeans; but his ſight was not weak, as it commonly is in
othcr Albinoes.
This young Papow, was a ſlave to a Dutchman, and had been but a
ſhort time at Amboyna. When I firſt caſt my eyes on him, he was play-
ing on an inſtrument, which I was ſurprized to ſee among thoſe people:
it was a jew's harp, cut out of the hardeſt part of a bamboo, but was not
quite ſo large as the iron ones which we uſe. As the tongue of it could
not be bent, to make it vibrate with the fingers, a little ſtring tied to
one of the cztremities of the inſtrument communicated the impulſe ne-
ceſſary to agitate the tongue, which then gave the ſame ſound as the iron
blades of our jew's harps. I was told that this inſtrument was very agree-
able to the Papows,
5th. We had, for ſome days, formed the deſign of viſiting the country
houſe belonging to the Commander of the place, ſituated near the
fartheſt end of the road; and his ſon favoured us with his company.
We ſet off before day-break; and it was ſcarcely five o'clock, before we
were feated in our canoes.
We ſoon arrived under a ſhed, ſurrounded with trees, which afforded a
ſalutary protećtion from the ſcorching heat; and they were by no means
a vain decoration to this delightful retreat, for moſt of them bore excellent
fruit. Among the different anonas which were offered to us, the beſt
was of the ſpecies known by the name of anoma muricata. *
In a little time, we re-embarked, and we were near 5,000 toiſes from
the town, when we paſſed a point of land, beyond which the road ex-
tends itſelf greatly towards the north.
A freſh breeze from the ſouth-eaſt impeded our progreſs, and drove the
waves againſt our ſlight veſſel, which proved very inconvenient.
At the ſame time, a large boat, loaded with water for the Eſperance,
came out of the creek, into which runs a river which affords that article
octop ER.] OF LA PEROUSE. T 23
to the ſhipping. They bring the water from that great diſtance, becauſe
it is much more eaſily obtained there than near the town, where, however,
the water is alſo very good.
The current occaſioned by the return of the tide oppoſed our courſe;
but our boatmen redoubled their efforts, and we at laſt reached the end of
that long branch of the road.
We walked for ſome time under the ſhade of nutmeg trees, which,
as well as the young plants, were much more numerous there, than in
any other part of the country which we had hitherto viſited.
The Commander's ſon was here in the midſt of his relations. We
were near the houſe of one of his couſins, who was a native of the iſland;
and there we behoved to dine after their manner. Fiſh, bread, ſago,
rice, and ſome fruits, formed our repaſt. As we were not ſerved with
ſpoons, we were obliged to imitate our hoſt by taking up the vićtuals
with our fingers; but we did not eat the leſs on that account, nor with
a worſe appetite. ſº
All of us reconciled ourſelves very well to bread made of ſago; the fiſh
was ſtrongly ſeaſoned with pimento, but ſome glaſſes of the water of the
ſago-tree diminiſhed the violence of its effects.
While we ſat at dinner, we were cntertained with muſic. A kind of
ſpinet was accompanic d by a man's voice ; a drum ſerved as a baſe, and
a tamtam as a counter-baſe.
After dinner our hoſt carried us in his canoe about 500 toiſes towards
the caſt. -*.
There we ſawa man employed in preparing a ſago-tree. This tree, which
was about eighteen inches in thickneſs, had been cut down a little time be-
fore. It was already opened for a part of its length, the whole of which
did not exceed forty feet, and it had afforded a great deal of ſago. This
palm, like the other trees of this genus, preſerving nearly the ſame dia-
meter for its whole length, yields nearly as much ſago towards the top of
the trunk as towards the root. (Fig. A. Plate xlii, is an exact figure of
a young ſago trec.) The external part of its trunk is formed of a very
hard ligneous ſhell or cruſt, four lincs and a half in thickneſs. The trunk
1S
224 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
is a large eylinder filled with pith, which is interſperſed, through the
whole length of the trunk, with ligneous fibres, about the thirteen-
thouſandth part of an inch in thickneſs, and often above two lines diſtant
from each other.
. They pound the ſago after taking it out of the tree; they then put it
ºnto bags made of a ſort of canvas, furniſhed by the baſes of the limbs of
he cocoa-nut tree. On thoſe bags they throw, from time to time, pure
water, which carries off the fircule (or ſediment), while this kind of
ſearce, or ſtrainer, partly retains the woody fibres.
The water repleniſhed with the faeculae is received into troughs, about
three feet in length, formed of the lower part of the limbs of the fago
trec. On the end of each trough they faſten a ſtrainer, to retain that
part of the faeculae which has ſubſided, and the ligneous fibres which have
eſcaped the firſt waſhing, ſwim on the water. }
This laſt ſtrainer required no preparation : it was of the ſame nature
with the other; both being a fibrous contexture, which differs from our
ftuffs in this, that its component fibres are ſimply applied, and run pa-
rallel to each other throughout the whole length ; but ſome ſhort late-
ral fibres, which traverſe the longitudinal ones, bind them together, and
form a firm contexture of the whole.”
To clear the faeculae of the ſago of the ligneous fibres which ſtill re-
main, after having been waſhed in the ſacks or bags, it is again put into
troughs, commonly four in number, and arranged, one higher than the
other; ſo that what is not depoſited in the firſt, may be received into
the ſecond, and ſo on.
The texture of the ſago tree well deſerves examination, and therefore
I diffected the trunk of one, in which I obſerved the conformation of parts
* The reader will obſerve, that the kind of ſearce here deſcribed, is merely a natural
produćtion, which is not over plainly intimated by the Author. They are commonly called
by the Engliſh cocoa-nut ſtraincrs. They reſemble fragments of very coarſe brown linen,
but are not ſo pliable. If I rightly remember, they are from two to three fectin length,
and where broadeſt, which is about the middle, from a foot to about fifteen inches in
breadth.-Tranſlator.
COIT] II) Oll
octop ER.] OF I, A PEROUSE. 2 X 5
common to many other ſpecies of palms, as Citizen Desfontaines has ſo
well deſcribed, in a memoir on plants with ſeminal leaves.
6th. and 7th. I could not go any great diſtance from the town cin the
two following days, on account of the affiduous care neceſſary to preſerve
my colle&tions. An intelligent aſſiſtant to each naturaliſt, would have
ſaved that precious time, which ſhould have been cmployed to a much
better purpoſe.
8th. But this day, light had ſcarcely appeared, when we were upon the
road. In croſſing it we direéted our courſe towards its entrance, and very
nearly approached a redoubt, about 5,000 toiſes diſtant from the town.
In that place, the road was at leaſt 3,500 toiſes in breadth; ſo that an
enemy had nothing more to fear from this battery, than from the firſt
which I have deſcribed. This is conſtructed exactly in the ſame manner;
but it is ſituated nearer to the entrance of the road.
Near this ſpot was a hamlet, compoſed of ſome cottages, the neatneſs
of which indicated the eaſy circumſtances of the inhabitants. The ſea
ſupplied them copiouſly with food, and moſt of the houſes were encircled
with well cultivated gardens.
Some of thoſe iſlanders raiſed fowls, and diſpoſed of them at the mar-
ket in the town. We accepted the invitation of one of thoſe honeſt people,
who inſiſted on treating us with new laid eggs.
Moſt of the gardens were ſurrounded with ſhrubs, among which we
diſtinguiſhed the jatropha curcas, which being planted cloſe together,
formed a good fence. Its ſeeds have a very agreeable taſte, reſembling
that of the hazle-nut. The natives apprized us, that, when eaten even
in a ſmall quantity, they induced great drowſineſs. They did not know
that the narcotic quality reſides in the part, known to the botaniſts by
the name of the embryo ; and I had the pleaſure of ſhowing them, that,
when this part is removed, the kernel may be eaten, without any incon-
WCInlen Ce.
Advancing farther into the country, we obſerved ſome individuals of
the armotto, bixa orellana, which were cultivated with little care. When
we had reached the entrance of the road, we ſaw at a diſtance ſeveral large
canoes ſtriving to make it, and ſome others which had nearly gained that
objećt.
F f Our
226 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
Our little canoe had arrived at the place of rendezvous, when the
boiſterous tide raiſed waves, which did not a little embarraſs the ſteerſ-
man ; the ſea being at the ſame time very much broken. It was, in
ſhort, abſolutely neceſſary for us to wait till it was calmed, before we could
go on board, in order to proceed to the other ſide of the road, which was
the moſt diſtant excurſion we had hitherto made.
For ſome time we kept along the ſhore, in order that we might the
more eaſily oppoſe the tide, and compenſate the lee-way, which was oc-
caſioned by the force of the current. Near the extremity of the road, a
great number of dolphins (delphinus delphis), darting rapidly through the
water, paſſed us at ſo ſmall a diſtance, as to make ſuch of us as could not
ſwim, ſeriouſly afraid that we ſhould be overſet.
We immediately landed near a little habitation, ſituated near one of
the fineſt parts of the iſland.
The fiſhermen on the other ſide had provided us abundantly with their
article, which one of our number had a mind to dreſs, after the faſhion
of the inhabitants of the South Sea Iſlands, who uſe the milk of the cocoa-
nut as their only ſauce. To this diſh, ſo much praiſed by Captain Cook,
he made an addition of pimento. We had the ſatisfaction to obſerve,
that this compoſition was extremely agreeable to our hoſts, to whom it
was unknown; and they cheerfully furniſhed our guides with every thing
neceſſary to ſucceed compleatly in preparing it. He who gave direc-
tions for the compoſition of this excellent meſs, acquired among the in-
habitants the reputation of being a very good cook; and we were much
diverted by their perpetually aſking us, if he was not the chief cook on
board of our ſhip.
In the vicinity of this cottage, I admired the beauties of the ſhrub,
known by the name of abroma auguſia. The hedyſarum umbellatum made
a diſtinguiſhed figure, amidſt ſeveral new ſpecies of the ſame genus. The
nutmeg-trecs invited to this ſpot pigeons, of the ſpecies columba alba,
Linn. The crops of thoſe which we killed were full of nutmegs.
The exceſſive perſpiration, occaſioned by the heat of the climate, often
induce cutaneous diſeaſes. The bodies of five of our hoſts were covered
with dry tetters, the ſcales of which falling off, were immediately fuc-
ceeded
octor ER.] OF LA PEROUSE. ‘. . ;
cccded by freſh ones, and appeared the more conſpicuous, on account of
the colour being a contraſt to the copper tint of their ſkins. This malady
frcquently invades every part of the body. We alſo ſaw ſome children.
who were affected by another cutaneous diſorder, from which they did not
appear to ſuffer any pain: almoſt the whole of their bodies were covered
with large warts, not much more than an inch diſtant from each other.
I ſeldom viſited a cottage at Amboyna, in which I did not find inſtru-
ments of muſic; and I met with one here, which I never ſaw any where
elſe. It was a ſort of hautboy, the lower extremity of which terminated in
two diverging branches pierced with holes in the ſame order in each, and
thus forming two flutes, both ſounding the ſame notes. The natives love
to play in uniſon, and apply one hand to each branch.
I returned to the town, in a dark night, when the water in the road,
preſented to my view collections of little bodies, which illuminated large
portions of the ſurface. The water which I took up in the moſt luminous
parts, left on the filtre, through which they were paſſed, little molecules
which differed in no reſpect from thoſe which I had already examined,
before our arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, and in other places, at a
great diſtance from land. We made the land near the town, at the mo-
ment of high water, and were obliged to wade, more than 150 toiſes,
through the water, which was ſo ſhallow as not to admit our canoes to
come near enough the ſhore to land us. The fiſhermen were kindling
their fires to decoy the fiſh, which the tide had brought thither in ſuch
numbers, that we ſaw their nets filled with them.
9th and 10th. The two next days were employed in viewing the vici-
nity of the town. I was ſurprized to find in ſo ſmall an iſland, ſo many
different ſpecies of vegetables; but doubtleſs its proximity to Ceram had
cnriched it with part of the plants of that extenſive iſland.
In the evening, the Governor gave an entertainment, this having been
the anniverſary of one of his ſons, who was in Europe finiſhing his educa-
tion. All the naturaliſts were invited, and we made our appearance at the
Government-houſe, an hour after ſun-ſet. As the coolneſs of the atmoſ-
phere was not then inconſiſtent with dancing, the ball had already begun,
:- F f 2 and
228 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
and ſeveral country dances were formed in the great ſaloon, in which the
Governor received us, on our firſt viſit along with General Dentrecaſteaux.
This ſaloon was a kind of gallery, which was decorated with ſome en-
gravings, and a few very indifferent pićtures, placed at a great diſtance
from each other. The walls were only plaſtered with ſome coats of lime;
although it would not have been difficult to have adorned them with fine
wainſcotting at a ſmall expence; as the iſland produces ſeveral kinds of
wood proper for inlaid work.”
Almoſt all the daughters of the Company's ſervants were at the ball.
The heat of the clime certainly forbade all violent motion ; yet we were
ſurprized to ſee the young ladies dance in a manner ſo very unfavourable
to the diſplay of their graces. They contented themſelves with walking
ſlowly, ſcarcely obſerving the figures, and their ſupine air formed a ſtrong
contraſt with the extreme quickneſs, which the compoſer had given to
the country dances which they performed.
The orcheſtra conſiſted of four negroes, who played on the violin, and
another who performed on the baſs.
The ball was ſucceeded by a ſplendid ſupper, which was ſerved up in
the ſame apartment.
From the ſmall number preſent at half an hour paſt nine, I ſuppoſed
that the party at ſupper would not be numerous; but the greater part of
the gueſts, not caring for the dance, did not come till about ten at night.
Gaiety prevailed at this entertainment, which laſted a good part of the
night; and the dancing was reſumed, and continued till ſun-riſe.
We were ſurprized that we had not the company of M. Strampfer, one
of the miniſters of the Proteſtant perſuaſion, who had received us ſo
* The number of ſcorpions and ſolopendrae (or ſorty-legs) before obſerved to have
bc.cn brought on board with the wood taken in at Carteret harbour, might have ſuggeſted
to the Author, that wainſcotting only ſerves as an aſylum to thoſe and other vile infects,
which ſwarm in moſt tropical countries. For the ſame reaſon, a great number of Prints
and pictures are inconvenient, and it is ſcarcely poſſible to preſerve paper from the attacks
and the excrements of inſe&ts. Plain painting and white-waſhing are almoſt the only
decorations, which the inſides of houſes conveniently admit in thoſe climates ; as the
Author would have diſcovercd, if he had continued to reſide in them,-Tranſlator.
kindly;
octop ER.] OF LA PEROUSE. 229
kindly; but we ſoon learned that he had lately incurred the diſpleaſure of
the Governor, becauſe forſooth, after having diligently attended to the
education of that gentleman's children, for ſeveral years, the poor man
had requeſted payment It might well be ſuppoſed, that the boaſted
honour of having educated the children of the Governor, was a compen-
ſation not quite ſufficient for a man who had a family of his own ; but he
could obtain nothing more | |
11th. I employed a part of this day, in ſurveying the beauties of ſe-
veral gardens, and among the plants which adorned them, I obſerved the
Chineſe box-tree, murraya exotica, which formed very fine avenues, alſo
the mixed carmanthine, juſlitia variegata, and the variegated turnſole,
croton variegatum, ſo remarkable for the beauty of their flowers and their
foliage. -
The lawſonia inermis, called by the natives, boungnia laca, is employed
as on the continent of Aſia, to ſtain certain parts of the body, and par-
ticularly the extremities of the fingers. The Chineſe make the moſt uſe
of this article.
Soon afterwards I came to a cottage, ſurrounded with a great number
of cocoa-nuts, ſuſpended from the eaves of the roof, and from the ad-
joining trees. The owner of this cabin, pointing to his numerous fa-
mily, told me that he was preparing to make a large plantation of cocoa-
nut trces. Moſt of thoſe nuts had germinated, and he ſaid that the
plants muſt be about eighteen inches in height, before they were com-
mitted to the earth, aſſuring me that, but for this precaution, many of
them would rot, without ſpringing up.
As the moment of our departure from Amboyna approachcd, I ſent on
board the collections, which I had made in that charming iſland, and on
the 13th I followed them in perſon.
14th. The expreſs orders, which had been iſſued the evening before,
for every one belonging to the expedition to repair on board the frigates,
made us ſuppoſe that every thing was ready for our departure, and that
nothing but contrary winds could prevent us from ſailing. A part, how-
ever, of the water, which had been conſumed while we lay at anchor,
- ſtill
230 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
ſtill remained to be replaced ; and, as this buſineſs was not finiſhed till
the afternoon, we could not take our departure till the next day.
The people belonging to the ſhips were very well ſatisfied with this re-
laxation. They had enjoyed as much leiſure as they could deſire, and
ſlaves had even been employed to bring on board our complement of
wood and water, in the large ſhallops which they call yacott.
Our ſhip had been caulked, and having been ſurveyed with ſcrupulous
attention, was found to be generally in good condition.
The iſland of Amboyna, called Ambon by the natives, was then the
Dutch government in India, which ranked next to the general one of
Batavia,
The latitude of the place of the obſervatory, towards the weſtern ex-
tremity of the town, was found to be 3° 41' 40" S. and its longitude
126° 0' E.
The variation of the compaſs there, was 1° 18' 20" W.
A flat dipping needle gave 3° of inclination.
Although the heat was oppreſſive, the thermometer varied regularly
every day, only from 22° to 25°.
The barometer kept conſtantly at 28 inches two lines, its variation not
exceeding one line.
At the place where we lay at anchor, the time of high water, at the
full and change of the moon, was at half an hour paſt twelve at noon,
and the water roſe about eight feet. The tides take place twice a
day.
The road of Amboyna forms a channel about 10,200 toiſes in length,
and its mean breadth is about 3,400 toiſes. In many places, towards the
ſides, there is good anchorage, notwithſtanding that the bottom, in ſome
ſituations, is coral. About the middle, the depth is too great for an-
choring. -
The fort, which is called Vićtory Fort, is built with bricks, and the
Governor and ſome of the members of the council reſide in it. It was
then falling into ruin, and from every gun which was fired, it ſuſtained
ſome damage.
The
october.] OF LA PEROUSE. 23 i
The garriſon was compoſed of about two hundred men; the greater
part of them natives of the iſland; the reſt were European ſoldiers in the
Company's ſervice, and a weak detachment of the regimcnt of Wirtcm-
berg.
Moſt of the European ſoldiers were tormented with the deſire of re-
viſiting their native country; but none of them had yet ſeen the happy
moment of return. Some who had been amuſed with this vain hope,
for many years, were a ſource of dejection to the reſt.
The ſmall number of ſoldiers who ſurvive any long reſidence in India,
renders thoſe who have paſſed ſome years there, ſtill more valuable ; and
hence the Dutch Eaſt India Company ſeldom fulfil their promiſe to allow
the men, whoſe time is expired, to return to Europe. Every method is
tried, in order to induce them to make a freſh engagement; and they
who carefully avoid every ſtipulation, which can tend to prolong their
confinement in the iſland, do not the ſooner obtain their liberty. I have
met ſome of thoſe unhappy men who had been detained in the iſland
more than twenty years; although, in conformity with the terms of their
agreement, they ought to have been then free.
The Iſland of Amboyna is divided into ſeveral diſtricts, which in many
places, form ſo many villages, called nygri. The command of each my gri
is conferred on a native, who is decorated with the title of orancaye.
This man, to whom the police of his little canton is entruſted, is himſelf
altogether ſubordinate to the Dutch government, to whom all weighty
caſes are referred. The Dutch commonly chuſe for orancayes, natives
who profeſs the Proteſtant religion, preferring the ancient chiefs, or their
neareſt relations, and above all thoſe who are richeſt.
Each of thoſe orancayes has the government of about one hundred na-
tives. The Dutch Company, when they inveſt them with their autho-
rity, preſent them with a ſilver-hilted ſword. Thoſe chiefs are cloathed
in the European ſtile, all in black, and they wear three-cocked hats, very
much pointed and depreſſed. Of this dreſs of ceremony, ſhoes form a
part, which they wear when they are obliged to appear in public, or in
the preſence of their Dutch ſuperiors.
The
232 VOYAGE IN SEARCII [1792.
The title orancaye is compounded of two Malayan words oran Kayn, the
literal tranſlation of which is, a rich man.
The dignity of orancaye, is by no means an empty title: it gives thoſe
petty chiefs the means of making their fortune, which they ſeldom fail
to do, although very vexatiouſly to thoſe who are ſubjećted to them; for
when raiſing contributions on the poor Annboynians, on account of the
agents of the Company, they take care not to negle&t their own intereſts.
It nevertheleſs happens ſometimes, that their fortunes decline faſter than
they increaſed, when the agents of the Company find the means of turn-
ing the avarice of the orancayes to their own advantage.
The inhabitants of Amboyna ſpeak the Malayan language, which is
very ſoft. Its analogy with the language ſpoken in the South Sea Iſlands,
has induced me to preſent the reader, at the end of this volume,
with a very copious vocabulary, which I collected at Amboyna and in
the iſland of Java, where I remained a long time, at the cloſe of this ex-
pedition.
The uſe of betel has been eſtabliſhed among thoſe people, time im-
memorial. They take ſome young leaves of the pepper tree called piper
firiboa, in Malayſiri, and having covered them with a little very fine lime,
made of burnt ſhells, and newly flaked, they chew them with the arec-
nut. Some of them always continue this amuſement, except when they
are eating or ſleeping. I was much ſurprized that, notwithſtanding their
inceſſant uſe of lime, thoſe people had in general very ſound teeth. They
become, however, of a blackiſh colour, which penetrates the enamel
without diminiſhing its poliſh. They are in the practice of cleaning
them frequently with a powder which is not very far fetched; for it
conſiſts merely of a calcareous ſtone of moderate hardneſs, which they
pound between two picces of hard grey ſtone. They alſo uſe a ſmall
quantity of this laſt ſtone, to rub the external part of their inciſive
teeth.
Thoſe people, not content with chewing the betel, import from Ma-
lacca an extract of a bitter plant, known by the name of gamber, which
they uſe for maſtication. t
Moun-
GCTOBER.] OF [A PEROUSE. 233
Mountains of moderate clevation cover Amboyna, and principally the
£aſtern part of that iſland. *
The coffee which they gather appeared to us inferior to that of the Iſles
of France and of the Re-union. Beſides, the Dutch ſetticºi in the Mo-
luccas, are very careleſs in its preparation. Their domeſtics arc in the
pračtice of ſubjecting it to a degree of torrefaction, which almoſt reduces
it to a cinder, in order that they may have the 1cſs trouble in pounding it,
with the wooden peſtles and mortars, which are the only machines they
uſe for this purpoſe.
The greater part of the marſhy grounds are allotted to the cultivation
of the ſago-tree, which furniſhes the inhabitants with wholeſome food. It
forms an article of their ſea-ſtores for long voyages, as does alſo the Ca-
nary almond, which they dry for preſervation. That almond has likewiſe
a very agreeable taſte when newly gathered.
The rice conſumed at Amboyna is not the produce of that iſland. Yet
it would ſucceed well, on moſt of the low lands, where the watcrwhich
iſſues from the baſes of the mountains, preſents very convenient ſituations
for its culture. But the Dutch Eaſt India Company has prohibited the
application of the land to this article ; becauſe the purchaſe of it drains
from the iſland the ſpecie paid by the Company for cloves. Thus thoſe
monopoliſts prevent the accumulation of ready money, and procure, at a
very moderate rate, the produce of the labour of the inhabitants. Beſides,
as rice is much uſed by perſons in tolerable circumſtances, it is found to
be a branch of lucrative commerce to the Company's agents, who import
it chiefly from the iſland of Java.
By ſuch means that Government, excluſively conſulting its own inte-
reſts, cramps the induſtry of the natives, by obliging them to abandon, ſo
to ſpeak, every ſort of cultivation, except thoſe of cloves and nutmegs.
The Dutch alſo take care to limit the cultivation of ſpices, in order that
the quantity produced may not much exceed the ordinary demand. Thoſe
meaſures, though deſtructive of all ačtivity, are, however, well ſuited to
the ſupine diſpoſition of thoſe people.
Many farinaceous roots, and a variety of trees, afford them abundant
G.g {{\pplics
º 34 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792,
ſupplies of food, almoſt without cultivation ; as if nature had thus in-
tended to compenſate man, for the inactivity to which ſhe ſeems to have
condemned him, in ſo ſultry a climate.
Engrafting would doubtleſs contribute to improve the various fruits
produced in this iſland ; but no perſon, even among the Europeans, has
yet ſucceeded in that experiment; for they have always allowed the joint
to dry, before the circulation of the ſap was fairly eſtabliſhed between the
ſtock and the ſcion. It would, however, have been eaſy to prevent that
accident by keeping the part in a ſuitable ſtate of moiſture, till the junc-
tion was fairly formed.
The European kinds of pulſe are but little adapted to the heat of the
climate. -
A very ſmall banana, called piſang radja, is looked upon as the beſt
kind. Next to the litchi and the mango, it appeared to me the beſt fruit
in Amboyna. They have ſeveral ſpecies of the litchi, among which
ought to be reckoned the nephelium lappaceum, or the ramb-outan of the
Malays. Thoſe celebrated botaniſts, Linnaeus, Juffieu and Gaertner,
were miſtaken in the claſſification of that genus; doubtleſs, becauſe they
had not an opportunity of examining its parts of frućtification, in a ſtate.
of perfection.
Linnaeus has claſſed it among the euphorbia, Juffieu among the com-
poſites, and Gaertner among the amentaceae; but it evidently belongs to
the tribe of ſoap-berry trecs. (Sapindus ſaponaria, Linn.)
The ſame reſtrictive ſyſtem, which we experienced at the Cape of Good
Hope, alſo prevails at Annboyna. In order to prevent any augmentation
in the price of commodities, the Company undertook to furniſh us with
proviſions; and gave the natives a trifling pricc, for articles which they
fold to us at a vcry great advance.
The Dutch have transformed a cuſtom ſtill more pernicious into a
law, which authorizes the chiefs employed by the Company to take
from the natives, without any payment, the proviſions neceſſary for their
daily conſumption. Nothing can be imagined more oppreſſive than this
arbitrary contribution. The moſt laborious man, like the moſt lazy, is
almoſt
octop ER.] OF LA PEROUSE. 235
almoſt ſure of being ſtripped of every thing but a ſcanty ſubſiſtence.
Hence moſt of the natives content themſelves with the eaſieſt ſpecies of
cultivation, paſſing in idleneſs that time which, under a different govern-
ment, they might have employed in placing themſelves in eaſy circum-
ſtances.
The fiſcal, who ſuperintends the police, compleats the oppreſſion of the
inhabitants. That officer has the power of impoſing, for his own hongjir,
pecuniary fines, which he fixes according to the meaſure of his own rapa-
city, and the circumſtances of the natives, whom he is often pleaſed to find
guilty, when they have not committed the ſlighteſt offence A Mr.
MKay, however, then exerciſed that office in a manner very different
from that of moſt of his predeceſſors. The inhabitants very much ex-
tolled his humanity, which was the more praiſe-worthy, as he had it in
his power to do them every poſſible miſchief with impunity. That brave
man told us, that he preferred mediocrity of fortune to richcs obtained by
fuch means. Mr. M'Kay, when explaining to us one day the prerogatives
of his office, informed us that ſome of our ſailors had cauſed a riot, at an
unſeaſonable hour of the night, in the houſe of a very rich Chineſe, who
fold arrack and other ſpirituous liquors; adding, with much frankneſs,
that the powers with which he was inveſted intitled him to extort a large
ſum from the Chineſe, by way of fine, and to convert it to his own uſe.
Others, ſaid he, would not have ſcrupled to have availed themſelves of
{uch an opportunity; but I never had occaſion to repent of my mode-
ration.
The clove is the principal article of produce at Amboyna, and ſeveral
little iſlands to the eaſtward of it, where it ſucceeds extremely well. The
Dutch have placed reſidents there, to prevent the exportation of that pre-
cious commodity.
The nature of the ſoil of Banda appeared to me more favourable to the
cultivation of nutmegs than that of Amboyna ; for it is generally acknow-
ledged that the nutmegs of the latter iſland arc interior to thoſe of the
former. *
Nutmeg-trees and clove-trees were formerly diffuſed over the iſlands
*
G g 2 Of
Q36 VOYAGE IN SEARCH #1792.
of Ternate, Tidor, Makian, &c. in much greater abundance than in Am.
boyna and Banda ; but the Dutch, determined to appropriate to them-
felves the excluſive benefit of thoſe precious trees, obliged the chiefs of the
firſt-mentioned iſlands to deſtroy the plantations of them. Their agents,
who reſide there, make very rigorous viſitations, in order to ſee this order
executed ; and thoſe articles are only cultivated at Amboyna, and the other
iſlands immediately dependent on the Company, where they can exerciſe
continual vigilance. This inquiſition, impoſed by Dutch avarice, is very
much fruſtrated by the birds, which convey to the neighbouring iſlands
the ſeeds of the ſpice-trees from thoſe where they are cultivated. This
circumſtance made the Company reſolve to ſettle reſidents in thoſe iſlands,
whoſe principal buſineſs it is, continually to ſearch for and deſtroy all the
young ſpice-trees they can meet with. But it alſo often happens that the
ſeeds are dropped in ſituations ſo precipitous, as to eſcape the moſt active
vigilance.
The ſlaves introduced into the Moluccas, are chiefly brought from
Macaſſar and Ceram. The women of Macaſſar are generally of a
middling ſtature, and have agreeable features. Their hair is not
criſped; and their complexion, though ſtill more yellow than that
of European women labouring under the chloroſis, yet procures them
from the natives of the Moluccas the name of white women, parampou-
ong foºtti, ! f
Before the Dutch eſtabliſhed the ſlave-trade, the iſlanders of Ceram
were in the barbarous pračtice of devouring their priſoners of war. It is
melancholy to learn that they have abandoned that atrocious cuſtom, only.
becauſe they turn their captives to better account by ſelling them. If this
change of ſyſtem has been attended with an apparent good, it muſt alſo
give riſe to more frequent wars. Man muſt indeed have ſunk to extreme
degradation, when the introduction of ſlavery becomes inſtrumental to
*is civilization This, however, may be ſaid of a people who were for-
merly cannibals.
The Dutch ſettled in the Moluccas, ſpeak the Malayan language to:
their ſlaves; taking ſpecial care not to teach them their own mother-
tongue,
october.] OE LA PEROUSE. 237
tongue, left the ſlaves ſhould underſtand their converſation among thcm-
ſelves.
As ſoon as the Dutch had ſecured the excluſive commerce of the Mo-
luccas, they endeavoured to aſcertain the population of thoſe iſlands, and,
by exaggeration in that particular, in order to convey a great idea of the
ſubjugated country, they ſtated it at 150,000 ſouls, which, according to
univerſal opinion, and the moſt recent eſtimates, is double the number of
people in the Moluccas.
'The quantity of cloves annually produced in that ſettlement is about
2,000 packages, each 534 pounds avoirdupois. The Crop of two years
forms the cargoes of three ſhips, two of which are ſent in one year, and
the third in the year following. The quantity of cloves and nutmegs ex-
ported ſometimes exceeds the conſumption ; and, in that caſe, it is well
known that the Dutch Eaſt India Company burn the overplus, in order
to keep thoſe commodities always at the ſame price.
In ſpite of all their anxiety to monopolize the ſpice trade, it is com-
puted that one-fiftieth part of the crop is annually ſmuggled. As the
ſmall ſalaries of the Company's agents do not allow them to make their
fortunes rapidly, ſeveral of them have recourſe to means of improving their
fituation, which, though certainly dangerous, are eaſily put in practice.
And, notwithſtanding all the vigilance of the Company, their ſervants
ſucceed in depriving them of a ſmall part of the ſpices.
It is not long ſince the Governor and Lieutenant-Governor of Banda
were depoſed and ſent to Batavia, for having converted to their own uſes-
part of the produce of that iſland. But thoſe abuſes are come to ſuch a
pitch, that this example will only ſerve to make others conduct their ope-
rations with more addreſs, in order to prevent a diſcovery.
That contraband trade is more particularly carried on by means of the
eanoes of Ceram, in the vicinity of which the ſpice iſlands are ſituated;
and the ſpices thus procured are bartered, with Engliſh ſhips, for Indian
filks, opium, fire-arms, gunpowder, lead, hardware and tin, which the
inhabitants of Ceram cxceedingly value, converting it into bracelets, ear-
rings, &c. Some of thoſe articles are again ſold at Amboyna.
Thes
&
*...* *
s
S YOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792,
The Dutch bave two factories at Ceram, one of them at its north-weſt
extremity, and the other at Savay. General Bougainville had been miſ-
informed when he ſaid, that they had been expelled from this laſt poſt.
They have loſt, it is true, very extenſive poſſeſſions in other parts of that
large iſland ; but they ſtill retain their eſtabliſhment at Savay,
The reſident who entertained General Bougainville, during his ſtay at
Bourou, had been dead ſeveral years. At Amboyna, we had the pleaſure
of fecing his widow, who has preſerved an agreeable remembrance of that
French gentleman. Such is her taſte for our language, that ſhe has em-
plºyed ali the means in her power, at that diſtance from Europe, to have
Her childrca inſtructed in it.
The Chineſe are almoſt the only ſtrangers who are permitted to reſide
at Amboyna ; but they are obliged to ſubmit to naturalization, and thus
can never return to their own country. They are permitted to trade
annong the Moluccas; but it is only at Macaſſar and Batavia, where veſ-
fels from China are permitted to enter, that they can procure Chineſe
commodities. They are all of a commercial turn ; and ſome of them
have purchaſed, at a very high price, the excluſive privilege of dealing in
certain articles; and hence they ſell them at exorbitant rates. They
Pračtiſe all ſorts of expedients to get money, and hence their reputation
often ſuffers exceedingly ; but, on that head, they ſeem to have loſt all
ſonſibility. Some Jews, whom the Company permit to reſide in the
iſland, cnter into commercial competitions with thoſe Chineſe; but the
Iſraelites are no matches for them, the Chineſe having greatly the advan-
tage, in point of numbers and connections.
The collector of the Company's revenue is a Chineſe, who is likewiſe
charged with preſerving the police among his countrymen eſtabliſhed in
the iſland, and takes cognizance of ſuch caſes as are not ſufficiently im-
portant to be reſerved for the deciſion of the government of Amboyna.
We one day paid him a viſit, in company with one of the miniſters of the
proteſtant perſuaſion, and he entertained us with excellent tea. The table
was covered with a great variety of well-preſerved comfits: one of the
beſt was the young nut of the fruit of the ſago-palm. That chief, who
- is
ocTop ER.] OF LA PEROUSE. 230
is called the Chineſe Captain, ſhowed us, with an air of ſatisfaction, his
armorial eſcutcheons, variegated with a great number of colours. Thoſe
ornaments were profuſely diſplayed in the apartment where he received
us, and his bcd was hung round with them.
His houſe, like thoſe of his countrymen, was in no reſpect ſimilar to
thoſe of the natives. The Chineſe build much more ſolidly. Their
houſes are conſtructed like thoſe of the Europeans, with ſome difference
in the diſtribution of the apartments. The body of the building is of
wood, and the walls of clay, thickly rough-caſt, and afterwards covercd
with ſeveral coats of lime. -
The frequency of earthquakes and hurricanes makes the inhabitants
prefer wooden houſes ; and ſcarcely any other than the public buildings
are of ſtone. It almoſt always happens, that in thoſe moments of con-
ſternation the inhabitants are obliged to quit their habitations, and to be-
take themſelves to little cabins very ſlightly conſtructed, where they are
much more ſafe than in their houſes, which the tempeſts and the earth-
quakes ſometimes overturn.
We enjoyed excellent weather at Amboyna ; the winds were never
violent, and thoſe which we had from the ſouth-eaſt and north-weſt, were
very weak.
The market for the different fruits of the country is in the Chineſe
quarter. The Malays, like the Arabians, call it by the name of bazar.
The dealers aſſemble there, chiefly in the evening, and remain till nine at
night, each of them being lighted with one or two torches, compoſed of
the reſin called dammer, furniſhed by a ſpecies of cycas, of the ſame name:
(dammara alba, Rumph. Amb. vol. ii, chap. xii, tab, 57.) They incloſe this
reſin in ſago-trec leaves, without any central wick. It burns with very
little ſmoke; but care muſt be taken to remove the covering, as it is re-
duced into a cinder, and to trim it level with the reſin. Thoſe people are
lighted at a very ſmall cKpence; for a dammer torch, eight inches in
length, and about an inch and a quarter in thickneſs, coſts them not one-
ſixtieth of a penny ſterling, and yields a very clear light for three hours,
Their cottages are li ghted with the ſame reſin,
- Reſides.
Q O VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792
*f （b.
Beſides the fruit, there are ſome other eatables ſold in that Bazar. In
a ſuitry climate, and an extremely humid atmoſphere, fiſh would ſoon
putrefy, if it was not quickly dried ; and hence more dried than freſh fiſh
is ſold in that market. When the fiſh is prepared with the ſmoke of a
frnall fire, its taſte is preferred by the inhabitants to that of freſh fiſh.
The Molucca iſlands, after having been long under the dominion of
the Arabians, the Moors, and the Malays, came at laſt under that of the
Europeans. The Portugueſe, the Spaniards, and the Dutch, contended
for that dominion, and eſtabliſhed their factories and their forts in thoſe
iſlands. The Dutch finally prevailed, and have for many years enjoyed
the monopoly of their ſpices. Thoſe different ſovereigns have produced
fuch a change in the manners of the natives of Amboyna, that it is now
difficult to diſcover any traces of their original charaćter. The Portu-
gueſe introduced among thoſe people the catholic religion. The Dutch
have uſed their utmoſt efforts to render them proteſtants, thinking that
one of the moſt likely means to ſubjugate them. Hence they have a
great number of ſchools, where the children of the natives are inſtrućted
in that religion, and in reading and writing Malayan. Service is per-
formed in that language, in a church appropriated to the uſe of the na-
tives; and in Dutch in another church, attended by the Europeans. There
are two miniſters belonging to each.
The Chineſe, as may well be ſuppoſed, have a pagoda in this place.
Some natives, who ſtill adhere to the religion introduced by the Arabs
and the Moors, are provided with a moſque. The greateſt number of
true believers are ſettled on the other ſide of the road, to the northward
of the town. The Dutch have ſucceeded much better in making pro-
ſelytes to their religion, in the vicinity of their principal ſettlement. The
iron rod, with which they cruſh thoſe miſerable people, has reduced them
ſo nearly to the condition of ſlavery, that it will not excite ſurprize, if we
obſerve in them ſome of the vices which originate in that ſtate of human
degradation. º
Although thoſe people be habituated to reſign almoſt everything they
poſſeſs to the Europeans, there is one article which they are not diſpoſed
to
octop ER.] OF LA PEROUSE, 2 A 1
to reſign to them. Jealouſy reigns among them to an extreme, which
makes any indiſcreet propoſal to their women very dangerous. In ſuch a
caſe no dread of puniſhment would prevent them from executing their
vengeance.
The Dutch men preſerve their European clothes as a ſort of ceremonial
dreſs; but they have all veſts with ſleeves, in order that they may conve-
niently throw off their coats, when the maſter of the houſe, to which they
happen to be invited, ſets them the czample. On ſuch occaſions, thoſe
who wear wigs, lay them aſide, and put on large caps of very fine linen,
The European women over a petticoat, which falls very low, wear a gown
made like a ſhirt, as long as the petticoat, and which being divided in the
fore part, is kept cloſe to the body by a girdle. Their hair is formed into
a ſpiral behind the head, and faſtened with two large pins, which croſs
each other. Such is the ordinary dreſs of the European ladies. The
native women, in good circumſtances, who live in the town, wear dreſſes
of the ſame form, but commonly black: by the country women, blue is
preferred to every other colour.
The female ſlaves wear a ſort of ſhift, by way of a gown; but it is not
divided before, like that of the free women.
The free men dreſs their hair with a bent comb. The ſlaves tie it up
with a handkerchief. º,
The Chineſe, it is well known, received ſpices from the Moluccas,
many ages before thoſe iſlands were ſeized upon by the Europeans. The
Greeks and Romans were alſo acquainted with them ; and they were
long objećts of reſearch with the navigators who firſt penetrated into the
oriental ſeas.
Thoſe precious aromatics were then confined to a ſmall number of
iſlands; but have been ſince tranſplanted into very diſtant countries, where
they ſucceed perfectly well. We have grounds to hope, that our colony
of Cayenne, will one day rival the Moluccas, and by producing a much
greater quantity of ſpices, will diminiſh their price, and bring them into
more general uſe. Thoſe articles are alſo ſucceſsfully cultivated in the
iſles of France and Bourbon.
* H h We
242 VOYAGE IN SEARCH -- [1792.
We took on board the Recherche two hinds and a ſtag, with a deſign
to enrich New Holland with that beautiful ſpecies of quadrupeds.
We provided a good ſtock of fowls, common ducks, and Senegal ducks,
(oies de Guinée.)
The cagoard was not included among our live ſtock. That bird, though
kept in the poultry-yards at Amboyna, is not very eaſily procured, not
being a native of that iſland, but imported from the great iſlands to the
eaſtward. It does not well agree with long voyages, and beſides its fleſh is
black, tough and dry. In proportion to the room, which it would have
occupied on board, that bird would have afforded us much leſs food than
the poultry which we had already provided; for except its thighs which
are muſcular, being intended by nature for running, the reſt of its body
is of a very moderate ſize, in proportion to its height.
Our roots were chiefly potatoes and yams.
The beautiful leaves of the banana tree, and different kinds of melons
adorned the ſtern of our ſhip.
We bought a good number of hogs and goats. -
We took much care of our cow; although her milk was exhauſted;
for it would have been impoſſible to have procured another. The ſpecies
of buffalo common in India, is indeed a ſort of domeſtic animal at Am-
boyna ; but the female of that quadruped gives little milk, and being al-
moſt untamcable, would have been very troubleſome, not to ſay dan-
gerous, on board. g
Our butcher, whoſe buſineſs it was to take care of the quadrupeds,
could procure them little food but what was hard and dry, conſiſting, in
a great meaſure, of the anthiftiria ciliata; but happily, before we ſailed,
he was enabled to provide the large ſtocks of banana trees which, for a
long time, afforded thoſe animals ſucculent food. As they were allowed
but little water, the abundant juice of thoſe plants were extremely ſer-
viceable to them. * -
The flour which we procured at Amboyna, was but of a middling
quality, and the quantity with which they could furniſh us, was but
about 11,000lbs avoirdupois. This ſcarcity, whether real or pretended,
obliged us to purchaſe it at an exorbitant price.
octobeſ.] Ołº LA PFROUSE. 'º j .3
We found at Amboyna but few articles of European proviſiºn. The
Lieutenant-Governor, however, had a confiderable quantity of Ham-
burgh beef, which is in great requeſt among navigators. That officer very
willingly let our Commander have a part of it; but when we had got out
to ſea, we diſcovered that his ſervants had diſhoneſtly withheld the moſt
juicy pieces of the beef, and had ſubſtituted the ſame weight of the bony
and tendinous parts.
The young ſhoots of the bamboo, cut into ſlices, and preſerved in
vinegar, are czcellent pickles, in a long voyage, and we provided abun-
dance of them, Thoſe young ſhoots are generally very tender, if care be
taken to gather them in proper time. They are ſold in the market as
pulſe, for which they are a good ſubſtitute. They are often above three
feet in length, and conſiderably more than an inch in thickneſs.
We alſo furniſhed ourſelves with cloves and nutmegs, preſerved in
ſugar. The rind of the nutmeg is the only part fit for this purpoſe; and
unfortunately the blundering confedtioners had choſen ſuch as were too
far advanced, as were alſo the cloves, which, having reached the ſize of
middling olives, had acquired too much of the aromatic flavour to form
an agreeable preſerve. A man muſt have an Indian palate, who wiſhes
to enjoy thoſe delicacies. I may ſay the ſame thing of the preſerved
ginger, with which we were provided.
Our ſtore of ſago was by far too great; for we uſed only a ſmall part
of it. Our people never could reconcile themſelves to that food, whole-
ſome as it was ; and, notwithſtanding all the arguments of our chief fur-
geon, they, in ſome months, conceived ſuch an averſion to it, as to give
the preference to ſalted proviſions of the worſt quality.
We had but few hogſheads of winc remaining, which were fit for
uſe. The only ſpirituous liquor we could procure was arrack, of which we
purchaſed ſeveral hogſheads. Some navigators are too laviſh in their
praiſes of that liquor, which is not even ſo good as middling French
brandy.
| H h
2
CHAP.
244 VOYAGE IN SEARCH * [1792.
C H A P. IX.
Departure from Amboyna—Singular Effect of the Tides—Piew of different
Iſlands—Ravages on Board, by the Species of Cockroach called Blatta Ger-
manica—Run along the South-Weft Coaſt of New Holland—Death of the
Blackſmith belonging to the Recherche—A Storm drives us towards the
Coaſt—We anchor in Legrand Bay—The Eſperance, while at Anchor, loſes
two of her Rudder-irons—Her Mooring-chain gives Way—Different Ex-
curſions on the neighbouring Land–New Species of Swan—Sea-ſalt
found at more than one hundred Toíſes in perpendicular Height—That
Phaenomenon accounted for—Citizen Riche loſes himſelf on the Continentmore
than two Days—Departure from Legrand Bay, and Continuation of our Run
along the Coaſt—Want of Water obliges us to leave it—Arrival at Cape
Diemen—Caſt Anchor in the Bay of Rocks.
Octob ER 15th.
E only waited for a fair wind, to take our departure. At half an
hour paſt ſeven A. M. having a ſmall breeze from the ſouth-eaſt,
we immediately weighed anchor, and about eleven o'clock, we had
reached the entrance of the road, the weſtern point of which bore W. 6°
15° N. and the eaſtern E. 6° 15' S. our diſtance from this laſt being about
1,200 toiſes.
Our meridian obſervations gave the latitude of the moſt weſterly part
of Amboyna, 3° 46' 54" ſouth, and its longitude 125°53' 28' eaſt.
The breeze continuing all the day at ſouth-eaſt, we kept cloſe to the
wind, on the larboard-tack.
One of the boys of the large Dutch Eaſt-Indiaman, which had juſt ſailed
for Batavia, had hid himſelf on board the Recherche, and made his ap-
pearance at the very inſtant when the Captain of the Eſperance, acquaint-
ed the General, that he had diſcovered, on board his ſhip, ſix fugitives
from Amboyna, namely, three of the Company's ſoldiers, a ſailor and two
negro ſlaves. Thoſe unhappy men had made thcir eſcape from a country,
where they groaned under an almoſt equal ſtate of ſervitude
t { The
ocTop ER.] OF LA PEROUSE. . 245
The Commodore had allowed the people to bring pigs and fowls on
board, for their private uſe ; and all parts of the ſhip were lumbered with
them, but eſpecially between decks; and they were the more trouble-
ſome, as the diſagreeable odour which they diffuſed, was conſiderably in-
creaſed by the heat of the climate.
19th. This evening, when we were in latitude 7° 10' ſouth, and longi-
tude 123° 14' eaſt, the compaſs had no variation.
21ſt. This morning early, we ſaw a phoenomenon, which we had
already obſerved ſeveral times, and which never fails to alarm navigators,
who ſometimes, during the night, take it for the effect of breakers. The
air being ſcarcely in motion, we obſerved the ſea foaming at ſome diſtance.
Waves followed each other in quick ſucceſſion, and we were faſt ap-
proaching to the ſpot. A very heavy ſwell, occaſioned by the ſea receiving
an impulſe contrary to that communicated to it in the preceding night,
ſucceeded the agitation of the water. The cauſe appeared to me to de-
pend on the tide ſtruggling between lands, where the currents acquire a
velocity proportioned to the confinement of the channel.
About nine o'clock in the morning, we ſaw Kiſſer iſland, extending
from S. to E # S. E. It is very mountainous, eſpecially on the weſtern
ſide. Its greateſt dimenſion is from W. S. W. to E. N. E. It is ſituated
in 8° 13' 2" ſouth latitude and 123° 32' 17" caſt longitude.
Dark weather prevented us, till about three o'clock P. M. from ſeeing
the north ſide of the iſland of Timor, although our diſtance from it was
then but about 5,000 toiſes. Its lofty mountains roſe above the clouds,
and during the night we had obſerved, fires at different elevations, on
their ſides. Doubtleſs the inhabitants, at thoſe altitudes, find it conn-
fortable to correčt by fires the cold air of the night, and perhaps alſo
they may uſe them to fray away the wild beaſts. Thoſe fires ſerved as
ſo many light-houſes to direct our courſe along ſhore, when ſome gentle
breezes interrupted the calm which prevailed for a great part of the night.
24th. About ſeven in the morning, we were within 2,500 toiſes of
Laphao, a little Portugueſe ſettlement, on the weſt ſide of Timor, in
lat. 9° 22′ 45" S, and long. 122° 23' 30" E.
2.46 voyage IN SEARCH [1792.
The Portugueſe flag hoiſted there, bore S. 30° E. They ſaluted us
with five guns. A canoe with a double outrigger, immediately came
off to view our ſhips, to which it very nearly approached; but inſtantly
returned towards the ſhore, without hailing us. On coming ſtill nearer
the land, we ſaw both natives and canoes, upon the ſandy beach. We
ſounded ſeveral times, with thirty fathoms of line; but found no bot-
tonn.
About four o'clock P. M. we ſaw the Iſland of Batou, bearing ſouth-
eaſt, diſtant about 10,000 toiſes. It is ſeparated from Timor, only by •
an interval of 2,500 toiſes.
26th. Calms being frequent on the coaſt of Timor, we ſtood off ſhore
this afternoon, by help of a breeze from the ſouth, and ſteered towards
the weſt; but without finding a ſtcadier wind. Thoſe calms appear to
be cauſed by the heats, which at that ſeaſon of the year arc the more vio-
lent, as the ſun darts his rays almoſt perpendicularly,
The continuance of the calms renders the navigation very troubleſome
along thoſe coaſts, on which there is always danger of being thrown by
the currents. The great irregularity of thoſe currents, renders it very
difficult to conſtruct charts of thoſe coaſts; and hence the great diſ-
agreement between thoſe which have been hitherto offered to the
public.
A great number of whales of different ſpecies, ſeveral times ſurrounded
our ſhip, and leaped out of the water cloſe alongſide. From the little
fear with which they approached us, we concluded that they had never
been purſued by fiſhers. -
We were peſtered with thc ſpecies of parrot called lorries, of which
our people had bought a great number at Amboyna. Their piercing crics
gave us no reſt in the day time. Their new ſituation, on board ſhip, did
not agree with them, for they died daily. They were ſeized with con-
vulſions for which we found vitriolic ether a palliative; but it did not
preſerve their lives.
The mortality alſo ſpread among our feathered ſtock, the greater part
of which were ſeized with violent diſeaſes in the eyes, in conſequence of
the
octop ER. OF LA PEROUSE 2.47
* *
the coldneſs of the nights; and thoſe which were deprived of fight, ſoon
died of hunger. It would, however, have been very eaſy to have pre-
vented that diſagreeable circumſtance, by ſheltering them from the night
air, with a ſail properly ſpread over their coops.
The water, which we took in at Amboyna, did not juſtify the great
encomiums beſtowed upon it, for keeping well at ſea. It had already be-
come ſo putrid, that it could not be drunk, till the inflammable air, with
which fortunately it was but weakly united, had been expelled by ſtrong
agitation. This unexpected decompoſition certainly aroſe from the neg-
ligence with which the caſks had been cleanſed. There remained enough
of the fermentative principle of the old water, quickly to corrupt the
I\CW.
It is certainly very diſagreeable to be obliged to drink the corrupted
water of ſalt marſhes; but it is encouraging to know that by agitating it
ſome minutes, as I have ſhown, it reſumes its original purity.
At half an hour paſt four A. M. we ſaw, by ſtar light, the iſland of
Savu, extending from W. 13° S. to S. 27° W. at the diſtance of 1,000
toiſes. We ſteered weſt, in order to paſs to the northward of that little
iſland; and about half paſt nine, we were abreaſt of the bay in which
Captain Cook anchored, in his ſecond voyage, after having paſſed En-
deavour Straits. We diſtinguiſhed five canoes plying very near the ſhore,
where they were ſheltered from the waves, which ſpent their force upon
a little reef, level with the water.
The iſland of Savu preſents an enchanting proſpect; being interſe&ted,
eſpecially towards the ſouth-weſt, by very beautiful hills, whoſe gentle
declivity ſeems to offer to the natives a ſoil of eaſy and favourable cultiva-
tion.
Groups of cocoa-nut trees ſcattered on the ſhore, afford ſhelter to some
cottages, which additionally embelliſh thoſe charming plantations. That
iſland, on which the Dutch have a ſmall ſettlement, is in 10° 25' 48" S.
lat. and 119° 45' 10" E. longitude.
About noon, a little iſland, within our view, extended from S. 469
30° W. to S, 57° 30' W. at the diſtance of 7,500 toiſes. It appeared to
ills
sº$º,
º,48 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
us not to exceed 5,100 toiſes in length. Its latitude is 10° 28' 50" S. and
its longitude 119° 56' 17" E.
29th. At ſix o'clock A. M. New Savu bore E. 31° 30' S. at the diſtance
of about 5, 100 toiſes. That little iſland, which is very low, is in 100 w
37' 28" S, lat. and 110° 2' 47" E. longitude.
At ſun-ſet, we ſaw a part of the iſland of San del Boſe, in the N. N. E.
diſtant about 20,500 toiſes. It is covered with mountains of a mode-
rate elevation, and is ſituated in 10° 27' 4" S. lat. and 1 180 6’ 34' E.
longitude.
The poſition of a little iſland, which bore from N. 1" E. to N. 30 307
W. at 20,500 toiſes diſtance, was aſcertained to be 10° 27' S. lat. and
1 18° 7' 5" E. longitude.
30th. This day the current ceaſed to ſet weſtward, and carried us ten
minutes northward. The bight in the coaſt of New Holland to the ſouth-
ward of Timor, probably cauſes this different direction of the currents,
which conſtantly ſet from eaſt to weſt through Endeavour Strait; for they
ſoon reſumed their weſterly direétion, and carried us from 20 to 24
minutes daily.
It muſt be obſerved, that Captain Cook, after having paſſed Endeavour
Strait, experienced, like us, a change in the currents, for twenty-four
hours, but in a ſtill greater degree than we did.
31ſt. After loſing ſight of San del Boſe, we met with no other land till
our arrival on the ſouth-weſt coaſt of New Holland. The light winds
which we experienced, made us apprehenſive, that we ſhould arrive on
that coaſt, too late to finiſh our ſurvey of it.
Nov EMBER 3d. In the afternoon of this day, we were probably at no
great diſtance from ſome rocks, for we were ſurrounded with a great
number of birds, which never venture far from the land, and we did not
loſe ſight of them, till the approach of night. -
4th. We continued to ſee many birds this day. Navigators in tra-
verſing thoſe ſeas, ought to redouble their vigilance, in order to avoid the
rocks, which thoſe birds frequent.
16th. Our ſtag ſell over board during the night, through an opening,
left
November.] OF LA PEROUSE. 249
left at the extremity of the gangway, much larger than neceſſity required.
Beſides this loſs, we had to regret that one of our hinds had been deli-
vered over to the butcher's knife, becauſe it was dying with ſickneſs.
We acquainted Captain Huon with this accident, begging him to take
all poſſible care of his ſtag; but it died before our arrival in New Holland.
We paſſed the Trials at too great a diſtance to have a view of then, ;
but we ſaw a great number of birds, which doubtleſs took ſhelter there
during the night.
The ſpecies of cockroach, called blitſa germanica, had multiplied to
ſuch a degree, during the months we had paſſed between the tropics, as
to incommode us exceedingly. Thoſe inſects, not contented with our
biſcuits, gnawed our linen, paper, &c. Nothing came amiſs to them.
Their taſte for vegetable acids was ſurprizing ; no ſooner was a citron
opened than they attacked it ; but it was ſtill more aſtoniſhing to ob-
ſerve the rapidity with which they emptied my ink-glaſs, when I hap-
pened to leave it open. The cauſticity of the vitriol which they ſwal-
lowed, appeared to have no bad effect on them.
The ſugar extracted from the fago-tree, which we brought from Ann-
boyna was a bait, which they could not reſiſt. We deſtroyed great num-
bers of them, by mixing a ſmall quantity of that ſugar with water in a
veſſel, into which they tumbled.
Thoſe inſects tormented us ſtill more in the night than in the day,
They continually diſturbed our repoſe, by paſſing over any part of our
bodies which happened to be uncovered.
The cockroach, called blatía orientalis, made its appearance on board
ſoon after our departure from Breſt; but it ſoon took leave of us
place was ſupplied by the firſt mentioned ſpecies.
17th. This day we were carried 38' to the north-weſt. The Trials,
from which we were not far diſtant, and ſome ſhoals, doubtleſs cauſed
very ſtrong currents.
19th. This day we paſſed the tropic of Capricorn. The mercury in
the barometer roſe, on the ſame day, to 28 inches 5 lines, which appeared
the more ſurprizing, as it varies but little in the tropical regions. It was
I i beſides
, and its
256) VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792
* *
beſides the only inſtance, in our whole voyage, in which it roſe ſo high in
fuch a latitude. Although the thermometer was not lower than 18°, we
experienced a keen ſenſation of cold.
21ſt. We began to meet with variable winds, being in latitude 26° S.
Our goats daily periſhed for want of proper food. We loſt at the
rate of two in the day.
28th. About five o'clock P. M. the Eſperance being to windward, had
very nearly run foul of us; though the wind was favourable for ſteering.
That picce of negligence in the officer of the watch, might greatly hº
injured the ſhips, and might have obliged us to abandon our deſign of
viſiting the ſouth-weſt coaſt of New Holland, which it was our buſineſs
to explore, without loſs of time. But fortunately a boom, placed in the
critical moment between the ſhips, prevented the accident.
DECEMBER 6th. The appearance of ſeveral ſpecies of ſea-gulls, and
other birds, which never ſtray far from the coaſt, indicated our proximity
to land. The wind blew too violently from the S. S. W. to permit us
immediately to ſtand in for it with ſafety. Beſides, the ſea having been
ſtrongly agitated, and the horizon much obſcured with clouds, we re-
ſolved to ſteer S. E. H. S. hoping that next day circumſtances would be
more favourable.
At noon, we found our latitude to be 34°12' ſouth, and our longitude
1 12° eaſt.
We lay to all night, ſounding many times with 112 fathoms of line,
without finding any bottom.
7th. About half paſt two in the morning, we were ſteering E. S. E.
and at day-break, the Eſperance made the ſignal for land at N. E. diſtant
about 15,400 toiſes. It was the weſtern extremity of the ſouth-weſt
coaſt of New Holland, diſcovered by Lewen in 1622; being a low land,
extending from N. W. to S. W.”
At ſix o'clock we tried, E. : S. E. and when we came within 5,000
toiſes of the coaſt, we followed its direétion towards the S. E. A very
ſtrong gale at W. N. W. drove us at the rate of 15,400 toiſes in the hour.
* Should not thic laſt bearing be S. E. 7–Tranſlator.
The
DECEMBER.] OF LA PEROUSE. TX5 1
The interior country was interſperſed with ſandy downs, which had
the appearance of the greateſt ſterility. Thoſe ſmall hills, ſcattered on a
flat country, looked at a diſtance like little iſlands. In the intervals which
ſeparated them were ſome ſhrubs, the blackiſh foliage of which, indicated
a ſtate of ſuffering.
The peaked rocks, which roſe in the midſt of thoſe ſandy plains, ex-
plained the formation of the downs, the baſes of which were doubtleſs
compoſed of other rocks of the ſame nature, but of forms more favourable
to the accumulation of the ſand by the winds.
Freſh water muſt be ſcarce in ſuch ſandy regions, where that which
falls from the clouds doubtleſs penetrates to great depths, without meeting
with ſtrata to ſtop their progreſs.
This morning our blackſmith was found dead in his hammock. The
preceding evening he had partaken of a feaſt, which the gunners for-
merly uſed to celebrate with exactneſs. They had long been ſaving a
conſiderable part of their proviſions for this cntertainment. The unfortu-
nate ſon of Vulcan, extchuated, like the reſt of us, by the abſtinence to
which we had been condemned ſince our departure from Amboyna, had
too much indulged his appetite, and we were deprived of him by a ſtroke
of the apoplexy. This loſs would have been irreparable, if good fortune
had not conducted on board of our ſhip, at the Cape of Good Hope, the
very intelligent workman who ſucceeded him.
At noon, being in latitude 34° 45' 30" ſouth, and longitude 1 13° 38'
50", the neareſt part of the coaſt bore N. E. diſtant 5, 100 toiſes; and the
land we ſaw, ſet from W. 15° S. to E. 40° 30' S.
The mountains now began to aſſume the appearance of a regular
chain, the higheſt of which did not ſeem to exceed 200 toiſes in perpen-
dicular elevation. We obſerved large tracts of them entirely denuded of
vegetation : in other places, feeble ſhrubs were ſparingly ſcattered, with
here and there a tree of moderate height.
The mountains ſometimes preſented ſeveral chains, riſing by degrees
above each other. *
At four o'clock P. M. we ſaw ſome breakers near the coaſt, and a little
I i 2 to
252 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
to the eaſtward, two rocks 510 toiſes from the beach, and which we
paſſed at a very ſmall diſtance. The largett was remarkable for a ſepara-
tion in the middle, from which roſe perpendicularly, about twenty-five
toiſes above the level of the ſea, an iſolated piece, in the form of a very
flat plate. I took it and its baſe, to be compoſed of a ſort of hard grey
ſtone. We admired the fine effect of the waves, which riſing to the
very ſummit of the rock, aſſumed a colour perfeótly white, and deſcend-
ing again in foam, diſplayed that ſingular rock, as if it had juſt emcrged
from the boſom of the decp.
The coaſt then extended very regularly towards E. S. E. its little bights
bcing terminated by points, the moſt prominent of which ſcarcely ad-
vanced 1,000 toiſes into the ſea.
Being driven by an impetuous wind, we were not without apprehen-
ſons, on finding ourſelves ſo near a coaſt which offered us not the leaſt
ſhelter; but we clawed off during the night, by ſteering S. S. W. A
very rough ſea from the W. N. W. made our ſhip labour prodigiouſly.
Having been ſo long accuſtomed to navigate ſmooth ſeas, we had loſt the
habit of ſupporting ſuch violent agitation: the wind blew in impetuous
ſqualls, and allowed us to carry very little ſail.
8th. About half an hour paſt ſix this morning we ſtood to the north-
eaſt, towards the land, near to which a ſtrong breeze at weſt ſoon carried
us; but we fell to leeward. The coaſt then ſtretched almoſt directly
eaſtward; and the interior land preſented the ſame appearance as on the
preceding day. We obſerved vaſt yellowiſh tracts, which appeared to
conſiſt of hard ſtone, on which we did not diſtinguiſh the ſmalleſt trace
of vegetation.
At noon our latitude was 35° 17' ſouth, and our longitude 115° 12'
caſt. In a little time the mountains ſubſided, and we came in fight of a
vaſt plain of ſand, in which were interſperſed, at great diſtances, little
hills, of which ſome formed capes, advancing a ſmall way into the ſea.
About four o'clock P. M. we paſſed a cluſter of rocks, ſituated near the
coaſt, and ſcarcely covered with ſhrubs, the diſmal green of which was a
proof of the ſterility of the ſoil. At ſix, we were abreaſt of a bay, of
which
pecPMBER.] OF LA PEROUSE, 253
which we could not ſee the fartheſt extremity. It would have afforded
us perſeót ſecurity againſt the impetuous winds which blew, while we were
upon that coaſt. A foreland, which advanced from the north-weſt to
the ſouth-eaſt, near 5,000 toiſes into the ſea, ſome little iſlands and ſe-
veral rocks, ſituated at the entrance of that bay, preſented abundant pro-
tećtion from the winds in the offing; but the waves ran ſo high as to
prevent us from ſending a boat to ſound it.
We lay to during the whole night.
Being about 2,500 toiſes from the ſhore, we had ſoundings with 42
fathoms of line, the bottom being ſhells and bits of coral mixed with very
tranſparent quartzoſe ſand, which ſeemed to me an indication that we
ſhould have found a good bottom in the bay which we had paſſed.
9th. During the night, a clear ſky permitted us to ſee the land, from
which we ſtood off a little, having ſtill the ſame kind of bottom.
The weſt wind was not very violent, and at half paſt four in the morn-
ing, we made ſail, in order to ſtand along the coaſt, which trended to-
wards the north-eaſt, and a little farther on, towards the eaſt and the
ſouth-eaſt.
At eight o'clock we paſſed a bay, which appeared to reach 15,400 toiſes
into the land, and to have an opening of at leaſt equal extent. It is ex-
poſed to the ſouth-eaſt wind, but ſecure againſt that of the weſt.
Farther on, we ſaw in the offing ſome little rocks, not very diſtant
from the ſhore.
At noon, being in latitude 34° 48' ſouth, and longitude 110° 52' eaſt,
we ſaw, within the land, N. 4° W. a mountain more elevated than any
which we had obſerved, on the preceding days. Being iſolated amidſt
vaſt plains of ſand, it produced a very pićtureſque effect, and appeared to
be about 25,500 toiſes diſtant from the coaſt. Its ſhattered ſummit ex-
poſed to view many irregular peaks, moſt of them perpendicular. Such
peaks indeed extended over the whole mountain, which ſtretched 7,600
toiſes from eaſt to weſt. This configuration left no room to doubt, that
the rocks of which it conſiſted were not extremely hard.
We had not yet ſeen the leaſt indication of inhabitants, ſince we be-
gan
254 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
gan to coaſt thoſe ſterile ſhores. It was to be ſuppoſed, that ſome ſprings
of freſh water would attract them to the baſe of that mountain ; and ac-
cordingly the ſmoke of two fires, which they had kindled, convinced us
of their preſence. gº
About half paſt four o'clock P. M. after having doubled a cape termi-
nated by ſome rocks near the ſhore, we came abreaſt of a bay as wide as
that which we had ſeen in the morning, but not reaching ſo far into the
land. The ſurrounding land was generally very low ; but we obſerved,
towards its eaſtern part, ſome, little hills detached from each other. It
offers excellent ſhelter from weſt and ſouth-weſt winds; but it is entirely
expoſed to thoſe of the ſouth-eaſt.
Tropical birds with red ſtreaks, and ſome albatroſſes, of a darker co-
lour than thoſe commonly ſeen at the Cape of Good Hope, flew around
the ſhip. -
We lay to all night, and ſounding every hour, we had conſtantly thirty-
three fathoms of water, with a bottom of grey ſand.
loth. At half paſt four in the morning, we ſtood towards N. ; N. E.
to get in with the coaſt, and we ſoon ſaw it extending from N. 2° E. to
W. 25° N. A clear horizon permitted us to ſee other low lands, ſtretch-
ing towards the north-eaſt.
We ſoon after paſſed between the main land and the reefs, which were
10,200 toiſes diſtant from it. About eight o'clock, we left others,
12,800 toiſes diſtant ; and it was not long till we ſaw, that a little iſland
which we perceived towards the eaſt, was connected to the land by a
chain of reefs which, advancing into the offing, obliged us to keep on its
ſouth ſide till we had doubled it.
Three fires ſucceſſively kindled on the point of land, where the reefs
originated, apprized us that the natives were on that ſpot. The produce
of the ſca is doubtleſs the principal reſource of thoſe people, who inhabit
ſo barren a ſoil.
At noon, we were in 34°11' ſouth latitude, and 118° 22' caſt longi-
tude, when the little iſland already mentioned bore N. 38° W. at the diſ-
£ance of 1,020 toiſes.
Other
prºceMBER.] OF LA PEROUSE, 255
Other fires lighted along the coaſt, ſent up large columns of ſmoke,
intended no doubt, by the inhabitants, to let us know that they were
there.
About half paſt four o'clock, we ſtood away from a little iſland, diſ.
tant 20,500 toiſes from the coaſt. lt was joined to a ſeries of reefs, which
extended above 510 toiſes towards the eaſt. The lead then indicated ten
fathoms water, but ſome time afterwards, twenty-one fathoms of line
did not reach the bottom.
We were becalmed, a ſhort ſpace, towards the cloſe of the day; but a
ſmall breeze at ſouth-eaſt ſoon ſprung up, and permitted us to ſtretch to
the ſouth-weſt, which courſe we held during the whole night.
We hove the lead every hour, and had a bottom of quartzoſe ſand,
mixed with broken ſhells and coral, at a depth varying from twenty-five
to thirty-three fathoms.
11th. This morning, we ſtood towards the eaſt, with all ſails ſet,
having a freſh breeze from the W. N. W.
At ſix o'clock A. M. The mercury in the barometer had fallen more
than three lines. Although the weather was fine, this certain indication
of a great loſs of equilibrium in the atmoſphere, merited ſerious attention.
We nevertheleſs advanced before the wind, towards the centre of a group
of little iſlands, about 5, 100 toiſes from the coaſt, although we were un-
certain of finding a paſſage between them, when we ſaw them at a diſ-
tance. About ten o'clock, when we were intangled among them, we
diſcovered that they were joined together by reefs. The ſky aſſumed a
menacing aſpect, the horizon lowered in the W. S. W. and preſently the
wind blew from that point, with the greateſt impetuoſity. It was to no
purpoſe, that we ſpent a long time in ſeeking among thoſe reefs an open-
ing, which might allow us a paſſage into the open ſea; and as we had no
other than that by which we had entered, we put about, in order to gain
it. The impetuoſity of the tempeſt having forced us to furl moſt of our
ſails, the ſhip fell off ſo much, that we went to leeward of our intended
exit. Our running rigging giving way on all ſides, our manoeuvres were
much retarded. Our repeated attempts to extricate ourſelves, were unſuc-
ceſsful:
256 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
ceſsful: we always fell back into our dangerous ſituation, there to beat
about, in a ſpace abounding with ſunken rocks, at different depths, on
which the ſhip was in danger every inſtant of being daſhed to pieces;
and it required an experienced eye to diſtinguiſh thoſe rocks, in a ſea ſo
ſtrongly agitated. Citizen Raoul, a very ſkilful young mariner, in whom
our Commander had great confidence, was at the maſt head, directing
the movements of the ſhip. Many times we were carried cloſe to rocks
concealed by the waves; but he conducted us ſafely paſt them all, though
it was very difficult to diſtinguiſh them, even at a ſmall diſtance.
The Eſperance, which did not keep to windward ſo well as our ſhip,
was cloſe in with the ſhore, having no other alternative than to caſt an-
chor or be ſtrandcd. About one P. M. we ſaw her at a conſiderable diſ-
tance, in a place where we did not think ſhe could come to an anchor.
She had clued up all her ſails; and we were very uneaſy about her, being
apprehenſive that ſhe had ſtruck. But the ſteadineſs of her maſts ſoon re-
moved our fears, by ſhewing us that ſhe was riding at anchor. Her diſ-
tance, however, and the force of the wind, hindered us from diſtinguiſhing
her ſignals. w
We did not heſitate to have recourſe to the ſame ſhelter. The Com-
modore immediately gave orders to bear down under the fore-ſail; and
we were ſoon alongſide of the Eſperance, which was feebly defended
from the waves by a little iſland. We were adviſed by thoſe on board that
frigate, to ſteer cloſe to the land, in order to obtain a better ftation than
they. In approaching near to the little iſland, we had the frightful ſpec-
tacle of an impetuous ſea which, when it had cleared the ſouth point,
opened, by its precipitate fury, a gulph which expoſed to view part of the
baſe of the rock. The dread of coming too near the land induced us to let
go our anchor to windward of the Eſperance, but not ſufficiently within
the anchoring place, to avoid falling foul of her, if our ſhip ſhould drag
her anchors. The danger was ſo much the greater, as our ſheet-anchor
could not hold faſt the ſhip. The axes werc in readineſs to cut the maſts,
in order to give leſs hold to the wind, when our beſt bower ſecured usin
Oil I poſition.
We
pecember.] 1A OF PEROUSE. 257
We now rode at anchor in nineteen fathoms of water, with a bottom
of quartzoſe ſand, mixed with broken ſhells.
We were violently agitated by the waves, and expoſed to almoſt the
whole force of the wind; and we were apprehenſive that our cables would
give way, in which caſe we muſt have been daſhed upon the rocks, where
the waves broke in a tremendous manner.
In the evening, we let go a third anchor, to give us more ſecurity
againſt ſuch violent agitation.
12th. The mercury in the barometer, which had ſunk to 27 inches
8 ; lines, ſenſibly roſe, as ſoon as day light appeared, and announced to us
the termination of the tempeſt.
The ſurge having conſiderably abated, Captain Huon ſent his boat to
tell us, that on the preceding day, the Eſperance was driving towards the
land ſo rapidly, that ſhe was on the point of being ſtranded, when Citizen
Legrand, an officer of diſtinguiſhed merit, went to the maſt-head, in thc
very midſt of the tempeſt, and almoſt immediately came down, exclaim-
ing with enthuſiaſm, that the ſhip was out of danger | He then pointed
out the anchoring-place, which he had viewed, and in which he was cer-
tain that ſhe would ride in ſafety. This diſcovery ſaved both the ſhips;
for the Recherche, obliged to beat about in the night among dangerous
rocks, after ſtruggling as long as ſhe could, againſt the tempeſt, in hopes
that a change of the wind would enable her to get into the open ſea,
would at laſt have been infallibly wrecked.
We gave to that bay the name of Citizen Legrand, which will recal the
ſignal ſervice which that able mariner rendered to our expedition. His ad-
vice was to come to nearer the land, and it was to be regretted that it was
not followed, for the larboard chain by which the Eſperance rode gave
way in the night by the force of the waves, and that frigate ſwinging by
one anchor, would ſoon have been driven aſhore, if another anchor had
not fortunately taken hold. . That ſhip had alſo loſt two of her rudder-
irons, and had no ſpare ones to replace them. They were broken by the
violent ſhocks of the waves againſt the rudder, in the combined motion
of pitching and rolling. The motion of pitching, all things elſe alike, is
much quicker at anchor than at ſea.
K k Frony
258 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
From the place where we lay at anchor, we reckoned twelve little
iſlands, beſides the rocks and breakers, which afforded us ſhelter. The ſea,
in that vaſt baſin, ſent in very heavy waves; but fortunately we were an-
chored in good holding ground. -
The little iſland, to leeward of which we lay at anchor, bore from S.
250 W, to W. 39 N.
In the morning, a boat was ſent thither from each ſhip, to take the
ſoundings; for we intended to come nearer to it. They found every where
an excellent bottom, and cight fathoms of water, at a ſmall diſtance from
the land.
Some perſons, in order to get on ſhore, were obliged to plunge into the
water, for the boat would have been ſtove, if it had gone near enough to
ſet them on ſhore dry.
Many ſeals, of the ſpecies which Buffon denominates petit fºlloque, and
Linnaeus phoca piſſilla, baſked quietly in the ſun, upon the rocks and the
fandy beach ; and ſome of them allowed themſelves to be knocked on the
head. It is proper to obſerve, that the figure which Buffon gives this am-
phibious animal, has undoubtedly been taken from a ſkin badly ſtuffed;
for it repreſents the neck much ſmaller than the head, as is the caſe in
moſt quadrupeds; but the ſeal being formed for ſwimming, has nearly
the ſhape of a fiſh, the head being leſs than the neck.
In the ſame figure, the ears are repreſented as very open, whereas they
are nearly of a conical ſhape, without any other aperture than a longitu-
dinal ſlit. It would ſeem that nature intended to hinder the water from
cntering the ears of that animal ; for he has the power of ſhutting them
cloſely when under the water, and of opening them, though ſlightly,
when he emerges.
On the ſame ſland, there was a numerous flock of ſwans, ſeveral of
which allowed themſelves to be taken by the hand; but the reſt, ap-
prized of the danger, immediately flew away. This new ſpecies, is ſome-
what ſmaller than our wild ſwan, and of an aſh-coloured grey, a little
lighter on the belly. The bill is blackiſh, with a tumour of a ſulphur-
yellow at its baſe. The legs are ſlightly tinged with red.
Our main-ſail had ſuffered a ſmall rent when we were ſtruggling
againſt
DECEMBER.] OF LA PEROUSE. 259
againſt the tempeſt the preceding day. This morning we availed our-
ſelves of the fine weather, and ſhifted it.
13th. A ſmall breeze at ſouth-eaſt, ſucceeded the tempeſt. As the
moment was favourable, we warped, early in the morning, nearer to the
ſhore, from whence we were then diſtant but about 150 toiſes.
I landed on the little iſland on the ſouth-weſt of us. It is mountainous,
and not more than 2,050 toiſes in length, and 1,025 in breadth.
The ſwell was not yet ſufficiently abated to allow us to land with fa-
cility. It was neceſſary for us to ſeize the moment of the higheſt ſurge
for allowing our wherry, kept faſt by a ſmall painter, to come cloſe to the
beach, and each time one of us leapt on ſhore. As the edge of the
wherry, on which it was neceſſary to place the foot, in order to jump out,
preſented an inclined plane, and the beach was ſteep, we ran the riſk of
tumbling into the water, and being carried off by the ſurges, which fol-
lowed each other very quickly, and from which cven a good ſwimmer
would have found it difficult to eſcape. That was not the only danger
we had to apprehend ; for we might have fallen a prey to a large ſhark,
which kept at a ſmall diſtance a-ſtern. We had obſerved him hovering
about the ſhip ever ſince day-break, and he followed our boat as if he
longed for one of us. The chaplain of the Recherche fell into the water,
and would have been devoured by that animal, if the cockſwain of the
boat had not reſcued him from the danger.
Some ſailors belonging to the Eſperance, when ſtrolling upon the
rocks, killed a number of ſeals of different colours ; white, grey more or
leſs deep, and brown, bordering upon black. They were, however, all
of the ſame ſpecies, which has been denominated by Buffon petit phoque.
Their fleſh was found very good eating.
The little iſland on which we were, was compoſed of fine granite or
quartz. There were alſo quantities of feldt-ſpar and mica ; this laſt in
blackiſh plates. We alſo obſerved ſome few ſpicule of black ſchorl. The
granite lay bare in many places. The vegetable mould, collected in the
lcaſt precipitous ſituations, was covered with ſhrubs, ſometimes fo cloſe
together, as not to be eaſily penetrated. I plucked a magnificent ſpecies of
kptºſpermum, remarkable for its filvery leaves, and bright red flowers.
K k 2 I found
260 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
I found there ſeveral new ſpecies, belonging to the tribe of thymelea
(mezereons), which have but two ſlamina, and of which Forſter has com-
poſed a new genus, under the denomination of bankſia. I alſo obſerved
new ſpecies of the rumex, the lobelia and the buplevrum.
The weſtern part of that little iſland preſents, in one of its higheſt
parts, a plain ſurface of calcareous ſtone, the ſirata of which follow the
gentle declivity of the mountain. Strata of the ſame ſtone doubtleſs for-
merly covered the other parts of the iſland, and maſſes of granite ſerved as
their baſes; but probably they have tumbled down, and have left the
ſteep places expoſed ; for in the north-eaſt, where the mountains fall with
a very gentle declivity, there are ſtill ſome calcareous ſtones, at a ſmall
diſtance from the beach. I was not able to diſcover any ſhells, by all the
fearch I could make. -
From the ſummit of that little iſland, we had a diſtant view of a part
of the reefs and rocks on which our ſhips were in danger of being wrecked,
before they arrived at this anchorage. Their number ſtill appalled us,
and we were aſtoniſhed at having effeóted our eſcape from ſo many dan-
gers.
Two ſea-gulls, a male and a female, of the ſpecies called by Buffon,
bourg meſire, and by Linnaeus, larus fuſcus, perched upon the heights at a
ſmall diſtance from us. The female having becn ſhot, the male fright-
ened by the noiſe of the czploſion, took to flight ; but preſently returned,
and being determined not to abandon his mate, was killed by her ſide
I alſo fircd at a ſeal, which lay at a diſtance from me. Feeling himſelf
wounded, and diſtruſting his ſtrength, he durſt not take to the water.
Immediately another very large one, hearing the cries of that which I had
woundcq, came and licked the blood with apparent ſatisfaction; but at
the fight of a long-boat, which was ſteering towards them, they plunged
into thc ſea.
Soon afterwards, I ſaw more of thoſe animals advancing towards the
beach. Before they ventured upon the land, they never failed to raiſe
their bodics nearly half out of the water, and they remained ſome time in
that attitude, ſmelling and gazing all round, in order to diſcover whether
or not they could ſafely come and repoſe upon the rocks.
peceMBER.] OF LA PEROUSE. 261
14th. As on the preceding day, I had gathered an abundant harveſt of
objećts of natural hiſtory, of different genera, it became neceſſary for nie
to paſs a part of this day on board, in order to deſcribe and prepare
them.
About five o'clock P. M. the tents belonging to the obſervatory were
ſent on ſhore to be pitched. I wiſhed to embrace this opportunity to
make another viſit to the little iſland. As the tide was only beginning to
riſe, a landing could ſtill be effected; but in a little time it would been
impoſſible to get back to the boat, and we ſhould have been obliged to
paſs the night on ſhore. This conſideration prevented ſeveral of my com-
panions from landing. The interval to be got over before reaching the
ſhore, was about twenty feet, and at every ſurge, the water roſe there
above fix feet perpendicularly. There was a neceſſity for ſeizing the mo-
ment between the two ſurges, or of running the riſk of being ſwept into
the ſea, an accident which ačtually happened to the ſurgeon's mate of the
Recherche. He had told us before hand, that he would get on ſhore
with dry feet; but not being ſufficiently quick in his motion, he was
hurried along the ſhore by a violent ſurge. Fortunately he could ſwim,
and returned towards the boat; but in a very different plight from what
he had ſuppoſed, when he boaſted of his agility.
Thoſe who had landed were obliged to paſs the night on ſhore, with-
out any other proviſions than a few biſcuits. Urged by thirſt, they ſcram-
bled in a very dark night, above 1,000 toiſes, over rocks, in order to pro-
cure water, and, to add to their misfortune, they found it brackiſh.
Enormous ſharks, of the moſt common ſpecies, the ſºualus carcharias,
frequently appeared in the baſin where we lay at anchor. On board the
Eſperance, they caught one which was about thirteen feet in length, and
of more than proportionable bulk.
As every circumſtance convinced us of the impoſſibility of renewing
our ſtock of water, the officer ſecond in command ordered, that each per-
ſon ſhould be allowed only three quarters of a bottle daily. At the ſame
time he, as well as the Commander-in-Chief, uſed it without reſtriction.
I thought, however, that water was one of thoſe articles, the enjoyment
O]."
262 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
or privation of which ought to have been extended to all, without diſ-
tinétion.
15th. The geographical engineer of the Recherche, ſet out at day-
break, in the barge, to ſurvey the little group of iſlands, to examine whe-
ther there was any paſſage to the eaſtward, between the rocks, and to look
out for a proper watering place. I ardently wiſhed to have joined this
expedition; but as geographical operations have but little connection with
reſearches in natural hiſtory, we were not apprized of the hour of depar-
ture, for which every thing was arranged ſo clandeſtinely, that I knew no-
thing of it, till the barge was puſhing off from the frigate.
The impoſſibility of getting a boat to convey me to the main land,
made me reſolve to paſs this day, on the iſland in the ſouth-weſt, the ſea-
line of which I traced, ſetting out in a north-weſterly direction. I ſoon ar-
rived in the ſouth-weſt part of the iſland, near the moſt elevated land,
where I found a little rill of freſh water, iſſuing from a fiſſure in a granite
rock. This diſcovery diffuſed great joy among us; for we had been for
ſome time reduced to very ſhort allowance of that article.
Very near that rill, I ſaw ſome cavities full of limpid water, which I
had reaſon to belicyc as freſh as that which iſſued from the rock ; for it
was more than 200 toiſes above the level of the ſea. But I was miſtaken :
it was very ſalt, and farther on, other excavations filled with the ſame
water, were bordered with cryſtals of ſea ſalt in laminae ſo thin, that at
a certain diſtance, they reſembled glaſs. This fact having been mentioned
on board by thoſe who accompanicq me, ſome perſons, in order to ac-
count for thc phenomenon affirmed, that the waves muſt beat up to that
height in bad weathcr; notwithſtanding the coaſt was guarded by very
large rocks; although indcc.d they were but at a ſmall diſtance from thc
baſes of the mountains.
As the rill, which was very weak, furniſhed ſlowly the water neceſſary
to quench our thirſt, wc were obliged to remain beſide it, when preſently
ſome little drops of the ſalt water with which we were wetted, convinced
Inc that the air raiſed to the place where we ſtood, the ſea water, atte-
nuated by impinging againſt the rocks. It was not long till our clothes
WCIC
December.] OF LA PEROUSE, 263
were covered with it, as if we had been expoſed to a ſlight fog; and this
water had loſt none of its ſaltneſs.
Some birds came to our retreat to quench their thirſt. There I killed
the charming yellow turtle dove, remarkable for ſix or eight golden fea-
thers towards the baſes of its wings, and which induced White to call it
The golden winged pigeon (ſee page 43, where he has given a good figure
of it). I had before found the ſame ſpecies at Cape Diemen.
There we alſo caught many penguins, of the ſpecies called aftenodyta.
minor, and which Captain Cook likewiſe met with at New Zealand.
They were in the ſame manner concealed in very deep holes in the rocks,
from whence it was frequently very difficult to cxpel them.
The ſummit of one of the higheſt mountains, which I viſited this day,
for the firſt time, was formed of calcareous ſtone diſpoſed in ſtrata almoſt
horizontal, ſimilar to thoſe which I had before met with on thoſe heights.
It was of a very fine grain, with ſome few ſmall cavities. I did not there
obſerve any ſhells. It may be preſumed, that that conformation was the
effect of a ſlow depoſition of calcareous matter in a ſtate of ſolution.
The change of the ſoil preſented me with ſome plants, which I had
not yet found.
I gathered a new ſpecies of very tall (ſaillante) eucalyptus, of which the
following is a deſcription:
The moſt elevated twigs of that ſhrub, are not above thirteen feet in
height. They are ſmooth, are furniſhed, chiefly towards the extremity,
with leaves, alternate, oval, elongated, ſlightly bent, and about four inches
in length.
The flowers are ſeſſile, and generally eight or ten in number, at the
extremity of a common peduncle, about an inch and one-fifth in length,
having all the charaćters of the genus eucalyptus. Their ſtamina, which
are very numerous, have long filaments of a yellow colour. The ſtyle
projećts a little over the ſtamina.
The calix is very much clongated, and is puſhed outwards by the ſta-
mina, in proportion as they are developed, and it falls when they have ac-
quired their full growth.
* The
264 VOYAGE IN SEARCH . . [1792.
The capſule is open at top, and furniſhed with three cells and ſometimes.
four. It is ſurmounted by a ſmall portion of the baſe of the ſtyle, which
is divided into as many parts as there are cells.
Every cell contains a great number of angular ſeeds.
The form of the calix has induced me to give it the name of the euca.
!yptus cornuta.
Explanation of the Figures. Plate XVII.
Fig. 1. A branch of the eucalyptus cornuta.
Fig. 2. A flower diſengaged from its calix, in order to expoſe to view
the ſtamina and the ſtyle.
Fig. 3. A flower, whoſe detaehed calix ſtill envelopes the ſtamina.
Fig. 4. The calix. * t
Fig. 5. The ovarium.
Fig. 6. The capſule.
After having reſolved to paſs the night on ſhore, we ſought for a com-
modious retreat, and found at laſt an excavation in a rock, where we were
for ſome time perfectly ſheltered from the wind and the rain which over-
took us at the cloſe of the day. The cold was ſufficiently keen to induce
us to kindle a fire, and as we had not much proviſions, after I had choſen
from among the birds I had ſhot, thoſe which I wiſhed to preſerve for my
colle&tion, I gave the reſt to my companions to be broiled. We were ex-
pećting to make a hearty ſupper, and to ſleep ſoundly, when all on a ſud-
den, the wind chopped about and blew directly into our grotto, which we
were immediately obliged to abandon, to avoid being ſtifled by the ſmoke
of our fire. This change of weather made us regret that we had not re-
turned on board ; for the wind was ſo ſtrong as to extinguiſh our fire,
before our penguins were ſufficiently broiled, but yet we found them very
good.
At this repaſt, the ample ſupply of water, which we had brought from
the top of the mountain, agreeably reminded us, that herc at leaſt, we
could drink without reſtraint. *
10th. At day-break I advanced towards the ſouth-weſt. Among many
other
- -
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EcEMBER.] OF LA PEROUSE. 265
other vegetable produćtions, I diſcovered at the baſe of the mountains, in a
marly ſoil, a leguminous plant, which ought to be ranked among thoſe
the corolla of which is papilionaceous, and the filaments of their ſtamina
ſeparate from each other.
It forms a new genus, which I call chorizeňa.
The calix is in one piece, and divided into four parts on its borders.
The upper diviſion is large, hollowed, and longer than the reſt. The three
lower ones are equal among themſelves, ſtrait and terminated by a
point.
. The ſuperior border of the vexillum is hollowed, and almoſt entirely
covers the alae of the carina.
The ſtamina, which are ſix in number, are all ſeparated from one
another.
The ovarium is oval, elongated, and terminated by a recurvated
ſtyle.
The pod is oval, and filled with a great number of black and almoſt
ſpherical ſeeds.
This plant is perennial, and its leaves are ſimple, alternate, ſeſſile, cori-
aceous, long, dentated, and have two little ſpines for ſtipulac.
The form of the leaves has induced me to delineate this ſpecies, under
the name of chorizema elicifolia.
Explanation of the Figures. Plate XXI
Fig. 1. The plant.
Fig. 2. The flower.
Fig. 3. The expanſion of the petals.
Fig. 4. The ſtamina; the corolla and the calix having been re-
moved.
Fig. 5. The ovarium.
Fig. 6. The pod.
Very early in the morning the Eſperance had ſent a boat to the main
land, with a view to ſome aſtronomical obſervations. Citizen Riche had
alſo landed there. The rendezvous was fixed for two o'clock in the after-
* Ll Il OOIl,
236 VOYAGE IN SEARCH ; [1792.
noon, at the landing place ; but the boat's crew waited in vain till ſeven
in the evening, when they were obliged to return to the ſhip, from their
want of proviſions, and the dangerous ſituation of the boat, if the ſurge
had riſen ever ſo little. They left upon the beach a written note, ac-
quainting Citizen Riche, in caſe he ſhould return thither, that they would
return and take him off very early the next morning, if the weather
would permit.
The geographical engineer, who had been ſent to ſurvey the little iſlands,
returned in the evening, having determined the poſition of more than
twenty of them, ſcattered in the ſpace of a degree in longitude, and as
much in latitude. He landed in ſeveral places, without finding a com-
modious watering place, and the only rill of freſh water which he diſco-
vorcd could ſcarcely furniſh a ſufficiency for the daily conſumption of
the ſhips. But he had found an anchoring place, behind the point of the
main land, which bore from us, E. N. E. but it was not ſo deep as that
which we occupied.
The diſcoveries of Nuyts terminated at this archipelago. We were aſ-
toniſhed at the preciſion with which the latitudes had been determined
by that navigator, at a time when nautical and aſtronomical inſtruments
were ſo imperfeót I ought to extend the ſame obſervation, to almoſt all
thoſe aſcertained by Lewen on this coaſt.
For ſome days the winds had blown from the eaſt, inclining to the
north in the morning, and to the ſouth in the afternoon. The ſands,
{trongly heated by the ſolar rays, cauſed this diurnal variation. The equi-
librium of the atmoſphere was not affected by thoſe winds, and hence the
mercury in the barometer commonly ſtood at 28 inches, 3 or 4 lines.
17th. This day the weather being favourable, a boat was ſent in queſt
of Citizen Riche. That naturaliſt, enraptured with the riches and
novelty of all the produćtions of that region, which no obſerver had
hitherto viſited, had doubtleſs been ſo abſorbed in admiration of them,
that he had quickly loſt his way; and he had not yet returned to the ap-
pointcd rendezvous.
When advancing in the direction which he was ſecn to take on the
preceding
December.] OF LA PEROUSE. 267
precding day, our people ſaw, at a ſmall diſtance, ſome ſavages, with
whom, however, any communication was impoſſible; for they always fled
when our pcople offered to approach them.
The ſituation of Riche was ſo much the more alarming, as he had been
abſent nearly a day and a half, and as we kncy that he had landed upon
that ſterilc ſoil without proviſions.
The boat, which returned about two o'clock in the afternoon, brought
the diſmal intelligence that he was not to be found. Captain Huon im-
mediately waited on 2:10 Coinmodore, in order to concert with him the
mcaſures, which it would be adviſe able to take, on this diſagreeable oc-
caſion. The Commodore having ſent for the naturaliſt Deſchamps and
me, Captain Huon told us the methods he had taken to recover our un-
fortunate colleague; ſtating to us the dººr ic which he muſt neceſſarily
be expoſed, in advancing alone into the interior country, where, perhaps,
he had fallen by the attacks of the ſavages; in ſhort, he ſaid, he could not
but apprehend the moſt fatal event, beli ving it to be impoſſible that he
could willingly have abſented himſelf ſo loing.
The nature of thoſe burning ſands, which are totally deſtitute of water,
rendered all the conjectures, which we could form concerning him, ſtill
more melancholy.
As our ſtock of water was partly conſumed, and we had found no
means of renewing it, at that anchoring-place, Captain Huon, after re-
preſenting to us the diſadvantages of prolonging our ſtay, added, that it
was evident any farther ſearch could only injure the expedition, without
expreſſing the leaſt hope of finding our unhappy aſſºciate. º
Deſchamps, upon whom thoſe arguments had the deſired effect, cf.
pouſed the opinion of the Captain, and ſeconded his propoſition for ſailing,
by declaring that it could not be dific.nbled, that we could now do no-
thing more than lament the loſs of our friend.
Thoſe probabilities had not the ſame weight with me. But it was ne-
ceſſary for me to erſuade the ſailors; and I employed what I thought
the moſt proper argument for that purpoſe, by citing, in ſupport of my
opinion, an inſtance taken from the voyages of the moſt celebrated of na-
! L l 2 vigators.
268 VOYAGE IN SEARCH {}792.
vigators. I reminded them that, in December 1777, two ſailors ſtrayed
from Captain Cook, into the iſland of Nocl, one of whom was abſent a
whole day, and the other eight and forty hours; that Cook had ordered
ſeveral detachments to ſearch for them with the greateſt care; that Noel,
however, was but a little low iſland, ſcarcely covered with ſhrubs, whereas
New Holland, where Riche had loſt himſelf, was an immenſe region. I
requeſted, therefore, that the ſame time ſhould be allowed to ſearch for
our unhappy friend, as Captain Cook had employed in ſecking one of his
ſailors.
This reaſoning produced all the effect which I could deſire.
A boat was immediately diſpatched, from each ſhip, for the main land;
and I had the pleaſure to be of the party, whoſe buſineſs it was to uſe every
method, and to make cvery effort, to recover our unfortunate meſs-matc.
The Commodore ordered guns to be fired every half hour, to enable
Riche, if ſtill alive, to direct his ſteps with the more certainty towards the
anchoring place.
The wind favoured us, and, in a ſhort time, we made good our landing.
After having advanced into the country, in different directions, we re-
turned to the landing place, on the approach of night.
We traverſed a track wholly covered with ſand, where we found ex-
tenſive ſpaces abſolutely deſtitute of vegetables. But I ſaw with ſurprize,
on thoſe diſtant ſhores, the graſs known by the name of ſpinifex ſquar-
roſis ; and thus had a new and an admirable inſtance of the facility with
which plants, which grow on the ſea ſhore, diffuſe themſelves to pro-
digious diſtances.
In thoſe arid waſtes, grows a fine plant which nearly reſembles the
iris, and which naturally claſſes itſelf with the genera dilatris and argolaſia.
It forms, however, a new and a very diſtinct genus, principally by its ir-
regular corolla.
H have delineated it under the name of amigozanthos.
Its flowers have no calix. p
The corolla has the form of a tube, the edges of which are divided into
ſix unequal parts recurvated inwards. It is covered with reddiſh pili.
The
- Z,* z/~ º%
****** *****.

progm BER.] OF LA PEROUSE. 259
The ſtamina, which are ſix in number, are inſerted under the diviſions
of the corolla, which is placed upon the ovarium. - 4
The ſtyle is ſimple, as well as the ſtigma.
The capſule is nearly ſpherical, and of the ſamc colour with the flower
by which it is ſurmounted. It has three cells filled with a great number
of angular feeds.
The top of the ſtalk is covered with reddiſh pili, like the flowers,
I have denominated this ſpecies anigozanthos rufa.
Explanation of the Figures, Plate XXIl.
Fig. 1. The plant.
Fig. 2. The flower.
Fig. 3. The flower divided longitudinally, and expanded, in order to
expoſe the ſtamina to view.
Fig. 4. The ſtamina.
Fig. 5. The capſule.
Although in the day, the heat was very powerful upon the land, we
experienced a very keen cold in the night.
As ſoon as day began to dawn, we divided ourſelves into two parties.
That which I accompanied advanced towards the north, and the other
towards the north-weſt. t
Directing our ſteps by the compaſs, we had proceeded at leaſt 5,100
toiſes acroſs plains of calcareous ſand, heaped up in different places, when
we arrived in a very narrow bottom, where the verdure of the plants
formed a very pleaſing contraſt with the diſmal places we had traverſed,
and they grew in a very rich ſoil. There we ſaw ſome cavities which af-
forded us a little freſh water, but they were too diſtant to be of any uſe to
the ſhips. • . -
Continuing our route, I obſerved in the midſt of thoſe ſands, ſome
rocks of a calcareous nature, where I colle&ted ſome fine plants, which
ſtill reſiſted the aridity of the ſoil. Among the great number of the tribe
of the protea, which I obſerved there, I ſhall mention two ſpecies of
bankſia, which I call bankſia repens, and bankſia nivea, . .
• * * The
270 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
The firſt has a creeping ſtalk, thickly covered with reddiſh down,
terminated by flowers joined together in a conical form.
The leaves are pinnatifid, and when very young, are coated with the
ſame down as the ſtalk; ſo that one would take that plant for ſome ſpe-
cies of acrºſłichum ; but when more advanced in age, they are very
ſmooth. --
Explanation of the Figures, Plate XXIII.
Fig. 1. The plant.
Fig. 2. The flower.
Fig. 3. The corolla divided tranſverſely, and viewed through a mag-
nifying glaſs.
Fig. 4. The ſtamina magnified. *
Fig. 5. The ovarium, with the ſtyle and the ſtigma.
The ſpecies of bankſia, which I call nivea, is remarkable for its long
leaves, dentated very deeply, and white on the under fide.
Explanation of the Figures, Plate XXIV.
Fig. 1. The plant.
Fig. 2. The flower.
Fig. 3. The corolla expanded. & **
Fig. 4. A part of one of the diviſions of the corolla, viewed through a
magnifying glaſs.
Fig. 5. The ſtamen, viewed through a magnifying glaſs.
Fig. 6. The ovarium ſurmounted by its ſtyle.
I alſo found there the eucalyptus cornuta, and many other plants of the
myrtle tribe.
At the end of four hours very quick walking, we arrived on the banks
of a great lake which has a communication with the ſea. *
The natives had recently made fires in many places which we paſſed.
We ſaw no kangarous ; but their excrements, which we (aw every
where in great abundance, convinced us that that quadruped l,as multi-
plied greatly on that coaſt. We alſo obſerved excrements which very
- much
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DECEMBER.] OF LA PEROUSE. 27
much reſembled thoſe of the cow ; but we did not ſee the animal to
which they belonged. We ſaw in the ſand the prints of a cloven hoof,
more than three inches in breadth. There is no doubt that that region
is inhabited by animals much larger than the kangarous. It affords but
little food for birds; and accordingly I found none in this excurſion ex-
cept two ſpecies, a muſcicapa, which I afterwards met with in the Moluccas,
and the fine ſpecies of red creſted cockatoes, f/iftacus molucceſs, which
are met with in the ſame iſlands, in flocks of many hundreds. When I
attempted to approach them, they always removed to a great diſtance,
flying rapidly, with ſudden ſtarts, and emitting loud and very diſagreeable
ſhrieks.
The banks of the lake, which we followed for ſome time in approach-
ing the ſea, are ſomewhat marſhy. The lake extends a great way into
the land; for the other party, who proceeded towards the north-weſt, alſo
arrived on its banks. Some of them came to our rendezvous to acquaint
us, that they had obſerved on the very edge of the lake, towards the part
fartheſt from the ſea, the prints of ſhoes, which left no doubt that Richc
had paſſed that way; but that the marks of naked feet which appeared
near his, gave grounds for apprehending that he had been dragged by
the ſavages into the interior country. What tended to give ſtill more
probability to this conjećture was, that they ſoon found his handkerchief
upon the ſand, and a little farther on, one of his piſtols. At a ſmall
diſtance, they ſaw a little ſmoke from a deſerted fire, around which they
found ſome bits of paper, on which they recognized the hand-writing of
Riche; and beſides, the ſand ſtill bore the marks of one who had been
reſting himſelf on the ſpot.
We returned towards the landing placc, lamenting the fate of our ur-
fortunate meſs mate, and had very nearly reached the ſhore, in a hopeleſs
ftate of mind, when we ſaw one of thoſe who had been left to take care
of the boat, running to meet us with the pleaſing intelligence, that Riche
was ſtill alive, and that he had juſt arrived at the landing-place, ex-
tenuated with hunger and fatigue. He had been above fifty-four hours
on ſhore, with no other proviſion than ſome bits of biſcuit. The fa-
miſhed
272 - VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
miſhcd ſtate to which he was reduced, rendered it imprudent for his
friends to allow him to indulge his appetite, and in giving him food we
tric d gradually to bring into ačtion the digeſtive powers of his ſtomach.
His appearance, at firſt entirely diſcompoſed, became by degrees re-ani-
matcd. When he had recovered from the ſtate of ſtupor into which he
had been thrown by ſo long a privation of nouriſhment, he told us that,
near the ſile which we had found ſtill burning, there was a little rill of
freſh water, at which he had quenched his thirſt ; and that, by dint of
ſearching among the plants, analogous to thoſe which yield eſculent
fruits, he had diſcovered a ſhrub of the tribe of plaqueminiers which fur-
niſhed him with ſome ſmall fruits; but in a quantity inſufficient for the
ſupply of his neceffities. On the firſt day of his abſence, he found the
ſpring, near which his things had been picked up. There he paſſed the
night, and the next day he ſpent wholly in ſeeking the anchoring-place,
without being able to find it. In all this painful peregrination, he had
not met with a drop of water; but chance happily condućted him in the
cvening to the ſame ſpring, where he paſſed the ſecond night. Having
ſeen ſavages at a diſtance, he had attempted to obtain ſome intercourſe
with them, in order to know their manner of ſubſiſtence, and to aſk them
for ſome food ; for he was violently tormented with hunger ; but they
always fled, when he was advancing towards them. They frequently
fet fire to the dried graſs which was diffuſed over the ſand. In that cli-
mate, men not being under the neceſſity of wearing cloaths, they were
all abſolutcly naked.
Somc cazoards and kangarous of the large ſpecies, were the only ani-
mals ſeen by Riche. Although in a ſtate of weakneſs, he had carried for
two days a numerous collection of very intereſting produćtions; but,
during the third day, his ſtrength ſunk ſo rapidly, that it was with great
difficulty he could trail himſelf along the ſhore, in queſt of the ſhips, and
in thoſe circumſtances, he was obliged to abandon his whole collection,
not being able to reſerve cven the moſt precious articles.
As ſoon as he had a little recovercq his ſtrength, we conveyed him to-
wards the ſhips. It was to little purpoſe that we made the ſignals agreed,
upon
Decemberj OF LA PEROUSE. 273
upon to announce our ſucceſs. Every one was ſo convinced before hand
of the inutility of our reſearches, that they did not underſtand the mean-
ing of them, till we had come cloſe to the ſhips, and Riche was ſeen in
the midſt of us. The horrible ſituation in which he would have been, if
the opinion entertained by ſome perſons concerning him had prevailed,
ought to be an alarming 'and dreadful leſſon to captains and naturaliſts
who undertake long voyages; for, if we had quitted that anchoring place
the day before, his exiſtence’ would have been terminated by a moſt
frightful death, in all the anguiſh of the moſt terrible deſpair.
Though it was demonſtrated by this fačt, that it was poſſible for a man
to loſe himſelf for more than two days in that country, the greater part
of our ſailors choſe to be of a different opinion ; ſome of them being
more willing to believe and to ſay, that Riche had deſignedly abſented
himſelf; as if it could be believed, that he would wantonly expoſe him-
ſelf to all the horrors of famine. -
During our ſtay at that anchoring place, we could not fiſh with the
ſeine. But on board the ſhips, ſome fiſhes were caught with the hook,
among which were the labrus cyprinoides, and ſeveral new ſpecies of the
genus perca.
We lay at anchor, in latitude 33° 55' ſouth, and longitude 110° 82°
eaſt.
The variation of the compaſs was found to be 6° weſt.
19th. All the boats having been got on board over night, we waited
for the morning to weigh anchor, if the wind ſhould ſerve. It ſhifted
from the N. E. to the E. S. E. and at ſix o'clock A. M. we were under
fail. *
Paſſing to the northward of the little iſland which had ſheltered us, we
advanced into the open ſea. *
At noon, being in latitude 34°12' 54" ſouth, and in longitude 110° 21'
eaſt, the moſt ſoutherly of the rocks bore E. 2° S. diſtant about 3,400
toiſes, and the moſt northerly land bore N. 1" E. -
For ſome days, eaſt winds prevailed, which made us apprehend great
difficulties, in exploring that coaſt; and analogy gave much probability
M m to
27.4 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1792.
to that ſuppoſition ; for at the Cape of Good Hope, which even extends
forme degrees farther to the ſouthward than that part of New Holland,
eaſt winds alſo predominate at the ſame ſeaſon of the year.
24th. About noon this day, we had only reached 34° 24′ ſouth lati-
tude, and 120° 22' caſt longitude ; and the little iſlands at which we had
anchored were ſtill in fight.
The eaſt wind blew very freſh in the afternoon, but in the evening, we
had a hot ſuffocating breeze from the land. Immediately we were enve-
loped in a very thick fog, the air being loaded with a humidity which
pervaded every thing. I can compare it to nothing ſo properly, as to thoſe
fogs which ſoutherly winds diffuſe over the Mediterranean, near the
African coaſt, in a very hot ſeaſon. The ſands, heated by the ſolar rays,
had communicated to the atmoſphere an additional power of retaining
water, and we found ourſelves immerſed, as it were, in a vapour bath of
a moderate temperature.
About eleven at night, we loſt fight of the Eſperance, which did not
anſwer the ſignals we made, till three hours aſterwards, when we heard a
very diſtant report of a gun. * -
25th. The breeze was weak: we plied cloſe to windward; and when
day-light appeared, we ſaw the Eſperance at a ſmall diſtance. The wind
ſoon began to blow forcibly from the ſouth-weſt; and for ſome time, we
went at a great rate towards the eaſt. * *
At noon, we were in 34° 14' ſouth latitude, and 121° eaſt longitude;
and two hours afterwards, we perceived behind ſome little iſlands, a large
bight, which appeared to offer us excellent ſhelter.
The natives announced their preſence by the ſmoke of fires, a great
way from the ſhore, and from each other.
The barometer having deſcended ſtill lower than when it foretold the
tempeſt, which forced us to anchor in Legrand road, we ſtood off ſhore,
to avoid being embayed on that dangerous coaſt. We afterwards lay to,
for the whole night, keeping the ſhip's head towards the ſouth and S. S. E.
There was a very heavy ſea; the wind blew impetuouſly from the S.
W. and the W. S. W. and increaſing gradually, it raged with the greateſt
violence
December.] OF LA PEROUSE - 275
violence for almoſt the whole night, raiſing the waves to a prodigious
height. We had never yet been ſo violently toſſed by a tempeſt.
The ſouth-weſt winds there are almoſt always impetuous, and add very
much to the dangers to which ſhips are expoſed, in coaſting from weſt to
eaſt, along that low ſhore, frequently lined with ſhoals; and there is
danger of their not being perceived ſoon enough to be able to double them.
When day-light appeared, we ſtood in for the land. A wind from
W. S. W. brought us back fine weather.
Towards noon, we were in latitude 33°42' ſouth, and longitude 122°
4' eaſt, when we ſaw from the maſt-head, beyond ſeveral little iſlands, a
part of the coaſt, extending from weſt to north-weſt, and which ſtill ap-
peared low. Preſently it aſſumed the appearance of a bank, raiſed in a very
uniform manner, trending towards the eaſt, and intercepting our view
of the land. At the approach of night, we clawed off ſhore, and after-
wards lay to. -
27th. The next morning, we continued to follow the coaſt, and about
three o'clock P. M. our diſtance from it was but 1,000 toiſes. It uni-
formly preſented the ſame appearance, for more than 15,400 toiſes. We
perfeótly diſtinguiſhed thin horizontal ſtrata, of the ſame form with the
calcareous rocks, which I found in Legrand road. *
I am inclined to believe, that this interruption of mountains, through
ſo great an extent, is the work of the waters, which appear to have un-
dermined the ſtrata, making them ruſh into the ſea, where they form a
rampart which renders that coaſt inacceſſible. We obſerved little ſlopes,
which they had formed in ruſhing down, but which it would have been very
difficult to climb. We had approached it ſo nearly, that it became neceſ-
fury to get into the offing, where we found twenty fathoms of water, with
a bottom of calcareous ſand.
28th. Very early in the morning, we ſaw the land trending towards the
north-eaſt, and with the wind at ſouth-weſt, it was eaſy for us to follow
all its windings. It always preſented the ſame ſteep rampart, which roſe
very uniformly to the height of about forty-five toiſes, and preſented, from
its top to the level of the ſca, the parallel ſtrata of which it is compoſed.
# M m 2 About
276 VOYAGE IN SEARCH * [1792.
About noon, the coaſt inclined a little towards the ſouth-eaſt, and
changed its appearance, being then interſperſed with little ſandy hills,
which, falling with a gentle declivity, were bounded by a very low beach.
The ſea then aſſuming a greeniſh appearance, even in the diſtant offing,
indicated a change of bottom ; but a line of fourteen fathoms could not
reach it.
The wind ſoon began to blow very freſh. Experience had taught us
to dread the ſouth-weſt winds, on that coaſt, which had almoſt always
become impetuous; and therefore we ſtood S. E. H. E. to get into the
offing. e
The want of water began to be ſeverely felt on board of both the ſhips,
and it was evident that if we could not immediately find a ſupply of that
article, we muſt in a ſhort time abandon that coaſt. But if we had be-
gun with its moſt eaſterly part, and coaſted it from eaſt to weſt, we would
have had the advantage of getting a full ſupply of water at Cape Die-
men ; whereas, the half of our's was conſumed, when we began to ex-
plore the coaſt, at its moſt weſterly point. This confideration, among
many others, is a ſtrong inducement to coaſt it from eaſt to weſt. Be-
ſides, the impetuoſity of the weſt winds expoſes ſhips to the greateſt
dangers; while the eaſt winds, which are the moſt conſtant, never blow
with violence.
29th. We were but 1,020 toiſes from the coaſt, when the lead indi-
cated a bottom, ſometimes of coarſe ſand, ſometimes of rock, the depth
varying from nine to twelve fathoms.
At noon, our latitude was 32° 10' ſouth, and our longitude 124° 52'
caſt, the neareſt land bearing N. N. W. diſtant 340 toiſes. It ſet by
compaſs from N. 69° W. to E. 20° N. In a little time, it reaſſumed the
form of a rampart, like that which we had already coaſted; but with this
difference, that its upper part roſe by a gentle elevation into the interior
country. We obſerved ſome ſhrubs, which did not ſeem to be in ſo ſuf-
fering a ſtate, as thoſe which we had ſeen hitherto on the ſame coaſt.
The ſea was covered with the ſpecies of fucus, called fucus matans, and
by the French raiſin de mer. sº f :
JAN UARY
JANUARY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 277
JANUARY 1ſt, 1793. Having been oppoſed by the eaſterly winds, we had
only reached, about noon this day, 32°8' ſouth latitude, and 120° 49' caſt
longitude, when we ſaw a fog riſe, which every where repreſented a flat
ſhore; and ſo ſtriking was the illuſion, that perſons who came from be-
tween decks, thought that we had entered into a vaſt baſin. We were,
however, at the diſtance of 10,200 toiſes from the coaſt, which the fog
concealed from our view.
In the evening, the ſky lowered on the land ſide, and flaſhes of light-
ening darted from the thickeſt clouds. Then the fog, which encircled
the horizon, diffipated, and the wind ſhifting to the weſt, became very
freſh.
4th. In the evening, Captain Huon acquainted the Commodore with
the damage which the rudder of the Eſperance had ſuſtained. At the
ſame time, he told us, that on board of his ſhip, they had long been re-
duced to an allowance of three quarters of a bottle of water per day ; that
they had been obliged to diſcontinue the diſtribution of antiſcorbutic
draughts; and that thirty butts of water then compoſed the whole ſtock
on board the Eſperance.
5th. About ſix o'clock this morning, our Commander ſent Captain
Huon a letter, letting him know the reſolution which he had come to,
reſpecting the ſituation of the two ſhips.
At noon, our latitude was 31° 52' ſouth, and our longitude 129° 10'
eaſt, and we had fight of the land from E. to N. 10° W. being 5,100
toiſes from the neareſt part of it.
As ſoon as the boat was hoiſted in, we ſtood cloſe on our courſe on
the larboard tack, with the wind at E. S. E. ſteering for Cape Diemen,
and abandoning an extremely arid coaſt, along which we had held our
courſe, above 820,000 toiſes, in the general direction of W. S. W. to
E. # N. E. Fifteen months before us, Vancouver, equally oppoſed by the
eaſt winds, had been forced to abandon his enterprize, after having ex-
plored only about 360,000 toiſes of the coaſt.
Before we approached that coaſt, we did not expect to find boiſterous
winds ſo frequent, eſpecially at that ſeaſon, which might have been füp-
- poſed
278 VOYAGE IN SEARCH | 1793.
poſed the fineſt, in thoſe latitudes, the ſun having been then above two
months in the ſouthern hemiſphere. Is this impetuoſity of the winds
cauſed by the prodigious difference, which Cxiſts between the cool tem-
perature of the atmoſphere over the ſea, and the ardour of the ſolar rays
concentrated by the burning ſands on the main land -
The currents, experienced on that coaſt, always conform to the direc-
tion of the winds.
The Eſperance was in ſtill greater diſtreſs than we. Beſides, that fri-
gate had ſuſtained ſeveral injuries, when laſt at anchor, and needed an ex-
cellent harbour, where ſhe might receive all the neceſſary repairs.
At four o'clock no land could be ſeen, even from the maſt-head ; and,
at the ſame time, a line of thirty fathoms reached a bottom of fine ſand,
mixed with broken ſhells and lythophites. The lead was hove every two
hours, and each time it was found that the depth increaſed two or three
fathoms; inſenſibly augmenting with our diſtance from the coaſt.
6th. At ſix this evening, being then 102,000 toiſes from the land, a
line of ſeventy-two fathoms indicated a bottom of very fine ſand mixed
with gravel; and from that moment, no bottom was found, though we
founded at different times. This gradual augmentation of the depth of
the ſea near that coaſt, proves that the land ſubſides under the water by
an almoſt inſenſible declivity, and gives us reaſon to believe, that it riſes
in the interior by an acclivity equally gentle, ſo that thoſe heights are too
diſtant to be perceived from the coaſt.
8th. We were carried on the 7th, 23’ to the weſtward, and this day 2 1/
in the ſame dircótion. At noon, we were in 35° 30' ſouth latitude. The
rapidity of thoſe currents towards the weſt, perhaps depends on ſome
channel, which ſeparates the lands of New Holland and thoſe of Cape
Diemen, between Point Hick and Furneaux's Iſlands. Captain Cook, in
exploring the eaſtern part of New Holland, ſaw no land in that ſpace,
the cztent of which is about 102,000 toiſes, and believed it to be the ch-
trance of a great gulph. Perhaps on that part of the coaſt, a channel
commerices, which, after forming different ſinuoſitics, opens weſtward in
the ſanc latitude, in which we experienced ſuch ſtrong currents, *.
We
JANUARY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 279
We had no weſterly winds, till we reached the fortieth degree of ſouth
latitude; and they carried us to Cape Diemen, varying from the ſouth-
weſt to the north-weſt.
About ten o'clock, we ſaw at a ſmall diſtance, a great number of ceta-
ceous fiſhes, of a new ſpecies, which appeared to me to be of the genus
delphinus. They were caſily diſtinguiſhed by a large white ſpot, behind
the dorſal fin. The upper part of the body is of a blackiſh brown, and
the belly white. The largeſt were above nine fect in length. They
were preceded by agreat number of dolphins (delphinus delphis), and they
ſwam in ſhoals like them, making, with great rapidity, nearly the ſame
movements with thoſe cetaceous fiſhes.
We lay to during the night, deſigning in the morning to make the
land, a degree lower in latitude than Cape Diemen. We hoped to diſ-
cover there a harbour which would afford great advantages to future na-
vigators, who might intend to reconnoitre the ſouth-weſt coaſt of New
Holland, by availing themſelves of the ſouth-weſt wind.
10th. By half paſt four in the morning, we ſaw the land, extending
from N. E. H. N. to E. : S. E. the neareſt part bearing E. N. E., diſtant
15,400 toiſes.
For ſome time we ſtood on the ſtarboard tack, cloſe upon the wind,
which blew from ſouth-weſt. Two hours afterwards, when we were
not more than 7,800 toiſes from the ſhore, a line of ſeventy-five fathoms
indicated a bottom of very coarſe ſand, and broken ſhells.
The ſhore we ſaw was ſteep, and at a little diſtance, was a chain of
mountains, of moderate elevation, which nearly followed the ſame direc-
tion. The land was almoſt wholly covered with large trees.
At noon, we were in 42° 51° S. lat., and 1 12" 40' E. long. The land
to the north-eaſt, could only be ſeen through a thick fog, which obſcured
the whole horizon.
20th. The variation of the compaſs had very rapidly increaſed ſince it
became eaſterly; for it was now obſerved to be 7° eaſt. Z'
The coaſt preſented no bight, in which we could hope to find good
anchorage. At noon, we had arrived in latitude 43° 22' S., and longitude
l 43'
280 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
143° 28′E., being but 5,100 toiſes diſtant from the land, which, from
N. 7° W. to E. 23° S. always preſented very high mountains to our view.
At ſix o'clock in the evening, we doubled the ſouthern Cape, at the
diſtance of 10,200 toiſes. It is remarkable, that in the different windings
of the coaſt, which we followed, we had always the wind a-ſtern. It
appeared to me, that the high mountains, oppoſing a barrier to the wind,
forced them to obſerve the direction of the coaſt.
All the other mountains were ſurpaſſed in altitude, by that which we
ſaw covered with ſnow, when we anchored in Port Dentrecaſteaux, the
preceding year. But as this was a much warmer ſeaſon, we obſerved
ſnow only in great excavations, where it was ſcreened from the ſolar rays,
for a conſiderable part of the day. That mountain is remarkable for a
little conical peak, which forms its ſummit.
At the approach of night, we paſſed very near the Mew-ſtone, and
ſoon after we brought to, before a very freſh breeze at weſt.
We ſounded ſeveral times with a line of eighty-three fathoms, without
reaching the bottom.
As we were embayed upon the coaſt, by a wind at S. S. W. we were
obliged to tack.
21ſt. At noon, we were in latitude 43° 44' S. and longitude 144° 16'
W., when the Mew-ſtone bore W. 16° 30' S., the Eddy-ſtone S. S. E.
1° E. and the neareſt land about N. N. W. at the diſtance of 1,540 toiſes.
22d. Very early this morning, we were at the entrance of the Bay of
Tempeſts. The wind blowing from the E. S. E. hindered us from en-
tering Dentrecaſteaux's Strait, where we intended to anchor in a bay
which we had explored the preceding year, and which was extremely
commodious for giving our ſhips all the neceſſary repairs. But we were
obliged to enter the Bay of Rocks, a name, which ſome rocks almoſt level
with the water, ſituated near its middle, had induced us to give that bay,
which is the firſt on the larboard, on entering the Bay of Tempeſts, and
lies in the direétion of north-eaſt and ſouth-weſt. The Eſperance an-
chored there in very good time.
Having proceeded up this bay, about one-third part of its length, we
3. found
JANUARY...] OF LA PEROUSE. 28 l
found but fixteen feet of water; and conſequently it would not have been
prudent for us to go further, without ſounding all the way, which was
the caſier to be donc, as we had ſeveral boats afloat. Cretin, who had
taken foundings in this road the preccding year, told our Commander
that he would not find leſs water in it than ſixteen fect; and this pre-
vented all farther ſearch. That aſſertion, however, ought not to have
been entirely adopted; for, beſides that Cretin had not founded the bay
ſo deliberately as to be able to inform us reſpecting its depth within a
foot or two, he was in doubt whether or not he had performed that ope-
ration at low water, a circumſtance which would produce a difference of
at leaſt ſix feet, and conſequently would not have left ſufficient water for
our ſhip. Notwithſtanding theſe confidcrations, we did not heſitate to
ſteer to the larboard, and to approach ſtill nearer to the low ſhore. The
conſequence was, that we ran aground, but fortunately upon a ſandy bot-
tom. This accident happened at half an hour paſt nine o'clock. The
wind blowing in heavy ſqualis, from the high mountains, drove the ſhip
violently towards the ſhore, and fixed her deeper and deeper into the
fand.
The Eſperance immediately ſent her long-boat and her pinnace, which,
in conjunétion with our own boats, made vain efforts, on the ſtarboard
ſide of our ſhip, to tow her off. It then became neceſſary to carry out
an anchor to the W. N. W. and to fix the ſhip by a hawſer, to prevent
her from being carried nearer the land. Next, in order to lighten her,
the ſalt-water, with which moſt of our caſks were filled, was emptied
into the hold, and all the pumps ſet a-going to pump it out. As ſoon
as we had diſcharged this ballaſt, we ſet the capſtan to work upon a large
anchor, which had been put down cloſe to the firſt ; but, with our ut-
moſt efforts, it was near one P. M. before we could diſengage the ſhip
from the ſand-bank, and get her fairly afloat.
N in CHAP,
282 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
C H. A. P. X.
Stay in Rocky Bay—Warious Excurſions into the Country—Goodneſ of the
Soil–Singular Organization of the Bark of ſeveral Trees peculiar to New
Holland–Difficulty of penetrating into the Woods—The Trees within
Land are not hollowed by Fire, like thoſe near the Sea—Pit Coal to the
forth-Weſt of South Cape—Interview with the Savages—Their Conduct
towards us very peaceable—One of them came to take a View of us at Night,
while we were aſleep—Several of them accompany us through the Woods—
Parious other Interviews with the Inhabitants—They broil Shell Fiſh, to
eat them—Polygamy eſtabliſhed among theſe People—Their Manner of
fiſhing—The Women ſearch for Shell Fiſh, ſometimes by diving to a great
Depth—One of the Savages viſits us on Board—Their Knowledge of
Botany. -
24th JANUARY.
T five o'clock in the morning I landed near the entrance of our
anchoring-place. Along the ſhore I obſerved blocks of ſand-ſtone,
the decompoſition of which had furniſhed the very fine quartzoſe ſand, OIA
which I walked for ſome time.
The Eſperance had already found a watering-placc, in a little cove to the
north-weſt, where there was very good water, eaſily procured. The brook
that furniſhed it fell into the ſea from a height of more than three feet, ſo
that it would readily run into the long-boat through wooden troughs.
We ſoon reached the head of the bay, where we found a hut, which the
ſavages had conſtructed with much art. The ingenuity with which they
had diſpoſed the bark that covered its roof, excited our admiration; the
heavieſt rain could not penetrate it. It had an opening in the ſide towards
the ſea, and curioſity induced us to cnter. *
Some of the people on board the Eſperance had told us, that the evening
before they had ſeen three natives, fitting round a ſmall fire, cloſe to the
hut, who, being frightened by the ſound of a gun diſcharged at a bird,
had fled with precipitation. We had ſoon another proof of their preſence
at
Ascany.] OF LA PEROUSE. Q83
at this extremity of the bay; and it appeared to us, that they came regu-
larly to ſleep in this hut. In a very ſhort time we repented our entering
into it; for the vermin that ſtuck to our clothes, bit us in a very diſagree-
able manner.
The tide of flood had raiſed the ſea to a height that enabled it to flow
within the land, where we ſaw on it many ducks; but they would not
letus approach within a conſiderable diſtance of them. From their being
thus afraid of man, I infer, that they are not ſafe from the attacks of the
natives.
In the woods we found few inſe&ts; but for this we were amply CO IIl-
penſated when we returned to the ſea-ſide. As the weather was very fine,
the inſe&ts had flown thither from all parts; and among the great number
of thoſe that had attempted to croſs the bay, many termites, and various
coleoptera, of very ſtrange ſhapes. The wind had driven them upon the
ſand, where we could colle&t them with great eaſe.
Next morning, at day-break, we landed near the head of the bay,
whence we entered a large valley, which ſtretches to the ſouth-weſt, be-
tween ſome very high hills. From the top of one of the higheſt we could ſee
all the country, as far as the foot of the great mountain, that bore north-
weſt from our ſhips. The ſnow ſtill remaining on its ſummit, rendered
the view very pićtureſque, and by its contraſt heightened the beautiful
verdure of the large trees, which appeared to grow on it with great vigour.
Many ſpecies of embothrium were obſerved on the declivity of the hills
where we were. Lower down we perceived ſprings of clear water,
creeping out at ſeveral places, and running into a lake, where I ſaw ſome
pelicans; but unfortunately I was able to fire at them only from a great
diſtance. This lake is in the midſt of a large plain, the ſoil of which, in
the loweſt parts, conſiſts of clay thoroughly drenched with water, and
covered with roots of different plants, which form a bad kind of turf on a
ſhaking bottom. Through this are openings in ſeveral places a few fect
broad, diſplaying a very thin mud, covered with water. Near theſe
bogs, I had the pleaſure of colle&ting a great number of plants, among
which I remarked ſeveral new ſpecies of calceolaria and droſºra, (ſun-dew.)
.."
Continuing our walk, we ſoon had a vegetable mould under our feet.
N n 2 which
ºf
Tº 84. VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
which I found the ſame at more than half a yard deep throughout the
whole breadth of the valley. The temperature of the climate would be
extremely favourable to the cultivation of moſt of the vegetables of Eu-
rope ; and a few trenches, dug in proper places, would give a ſufficient
diſcharge to the water, to drain almoſt all the marſhes found there, and
convert them into fertile ſoil.
As night approached, we had reached the ſpot where we landed, and ſaw
thcre ſeveral heaps of oyſter-ſhells, brought by the natives, which had in-
duced our fiſhers to ſearch for them in the bay. At low water they diſ-
covered, very near this place, an oyſter-bank, from which they took a
large quantity; and the flood brought in with it ſeveral ſpecies of ray,
ſome of which they caught alſo.
The whole of the 20th I ſpent in deſcribing and preparing every thing I
had collected ſince our arrival in Rocky Bay. I was aſtoniſhed at the
great variety of produćtions ſtill afforded me by this part of New Holland,
where I had been very diligent in my reſearches for more than a month
the preceding year; though, it is true, ſeveral leagues from the places we
had now viſited, and in a more advanced ſeaſon, when a great number of
plants, that I now found, muſt have diſappeared.
On the following morning, as ſoon as it began to dawn, we ſet off, with
the deſign of remaining on ſhore a couple of days, reſolving to purſue our
reſearches to a conſiderable diſtance from our place of anchorage. We
land.cd in the ſouth-weſt, and followed a path, traced nearly in that di-
rećtion by the natives, where we obſerved tolerably recent marks of naked
feet, among which were ſome of very young children. No doubt, ſome
families, alarmed by our ſtay in Rocky Bay, had gone in queſt of another
retreat, where they deemed themſelves in nore ſafety.
After an hour's walk, we reſted in a low place, where the waters from the
neighbouring hills were collected. To ſeveral ſpecies of leptoſpermum this
moiſture was ſo well ſuited, that they had grown up to very large trees;
though all I that had hitherto found in other places were but little ſhrubs,
Some here were more than thirty yards high, though the trunk was not
cight inches in diameter. One ſpecies was remarkable for its bark,
which was about an inch thick, and compoſed of a great number of
flakes
JANUARY.] OF LA PEROUSE, 285
flakes, lying one over another, very eaſily ſeparable, and as thin as the
fineſt Chineſe paper. This ſingular organization of the bark occurs only
in New Holland: it is nearly the ſame in the eucalyptus reſinifera; and I
had obſerved it alſo on the ſouth-weſt coaſt of this country, on two large
trees, one belonging to the family of proſea, the other to the myrtles.
We ſoon found a current of air oppoſite to the ſtrong breezes from the
ſouth-weſt. Near we ſaw the marks of a fire, which appeared to have
been lately burning. The natives had left there part of a ſtalk of fucius
palmatus (the palmated or ſwcet fucus,) which the natives eat, after they
have broiled it, as we had afterwards an opportunity of ſeeing.”
The ſouth-weſt wind, which had been preceded by a great deſcent of
the quickſilver in the barometer, blew in the afternoon in violent guſts,
which brought on rain juſt as we reached the ſea-ſhore near South Cape.
Fortunately a ſhrub of the rutaceous family afforded us an excellent
ſhelter by its buſhy thickneſs. This ſhrub grows vigorouſly on theſe
heights, notwithſtanding its being expoſed to all the impetuoſity of the
violent winds that prevail on theſe coaſts.
To this new genus I have given the name of maselitoxeron.
The calyx is bell-ſhaped, and four-toothed.
The petals are attached to the bottom of the calyx.
The ſtamens, eight in number, are fixed to the receptacle.
The germen is oval. The ſtyle is not quite ſo long as the ſtamens.
The ſtigma has four diviſions. -
The capſule has four cells, each of which is formed of two valves; and
is covered with hairs.
Each cell contains two or three ſeeds, nearly ſpherical.
The leaves are oppoſite, rounded, covered with thick down, and of a
fallow colour underneath.
The flowers are ſolitary, and placed at the inſertions of the leaves.
To this ſhrub I give the name of maceutoxcron rufilm.
* This ſpecies of ſea-wrack, we are informed, is eaten both in Scotland and Ircland.
ſometimes freſh, as a fallad , but more frequently it is dried, rolled together, and chewed
as tobacco. In the Iſle of Sky it is uſed as a medicine.--Tºnſlatºr.
Explanation
286 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [17.0%
* Explanation of the Figures, Plate XVII,
. A branch. -
. The flower.
. The petal.
. The petals removed to ſhow the ſtamens,
Fig. 5. The ſtamens magnified. *
Fig. 6. The capſule.
We walked ſome way to the north acroſs hillocks of ſand, before we got
º
º
down to the beach, the windings of which we followed with great eaſe
for a conſiderable diſtance; but at length we were ſtopped by a moun-
tain, which terminated in a cliff; where it advanced into the ſea. We
attempted to go round it on the land ſide, but found it impoſſible to pe-
netrate through the thickets, by which it was environed.
Night coming on, we returned in ſearch of a convenient place to paſs
the night near a rivulet, which we had croſſed. A thick buſh was the
beſt ſhelter we could find ; and this we increaſed by the addition of
branches from others, ſo that we expected to have been perfectly ſecure
againſt any inconvenience from the wind. But the gale from the ſouth-
weſt blew ſo ſtrong during the night, that the rain penetrated our cover-
ing on all ſides; and to heighten our diſtreſs, the cold was very piercing,
which drove moſt of us near the fire, though there we were ſtill more ex-
poſed to the wet, than in our ſort of hut. r
28th. As ſoon as day broke, we quitted our uncomfortable lodging, and
croſſed the downs, that ſurrounded us. In ſome places, where the ſand
appeared lately to have fallen down, I obſerved, that theſe ſand hills ap-
peared to reſt partly on a very hard ſteatite, of a dark grey colour, partly
on ſandſtone. Preſently after I obſerved from the borders of the ſhore a
very large rock, ſtanding in the ſea, and not far from the land, which ex-
hibited on all fides the ſame ſpecies of ſteatite. This rock, which is
very high, is pierced at one of its extremities. sº
The waves had ſeparated from the bottom of the ſea much ſponge of
the ſpecies called ſpongia cancellata, great quantities of which we ſaw
thrown upon the ſhore.
Kn
JANUARY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 287
In the midſt of theſe downs grew a new ſpecies of plantain, which I
call plantago tricuſpidata, from the form of its leaves. This muſt be
reckoned among the moſt uſeful plants, which this country affords for the
food of man. The hope of finding ſome vegetables fit to eat as ſallad
had induced the moſt provident among us, to bring the neceſſary ſauce,
and the fallad furniſhed by the leaves of this plant, which were very
tender, was highly reliſhed by all the company.
Several kinds of graſs, among which I noticed many new ſpecies of
feſcue (fiftuca), ſerved to bind the ſand together. A new geranium,
with an herbaceous ſtalk, very ſmall, and with leaves deeply cut, was
among the number of plants I collected. It was the firſt plant of the
genus, that I found in this country.
. I had obſerved ſeveral burrows made in the ground, where the ſand
had ſufficient ſolidity, but I knew not by what animal they were formed;
when a kangarou of a middle ſize ſtarted up at our approach, and ran
into one of them. We fired in ſeveral times, hoping the ſmoke would
drive him out, but he would not quit his hole.
Several tracks of kangarous through a little wood rouſed the ardour of
two of our ſhooters, who were with us; and they ſoon got ſight of ſeveral
of theſe animals in the midſt of a meadow watered by a delightful rivu-
let, but all of them were too ſhy to be approached.
At length we got on board, greatly fatigued for want of ſleep, as we
had not cloſed our eyes for more than forty hours.
29th. The four ſubſequent days I employed in viſiting the environs of
the place where we lay at anchor. Toward the ſouth-ſouth-eaſt I found
a fine tree, which appeared to me to belong to the family of coniferae,
judging by the diſpoſition of its ſtamens, and the reſinous ſmell of every
part : but I was never able to procure any of its fruit, though I after-
wards ſaw ſeveral trees of the ſame kind. No doubt the ſeaſon was not
yet far enough advanced; and the ſtamens, which I obſerved, appeared
to have remained ever ſince the preceding year. I mention this tree, not
only on account of the ſingularity of its leaves for a tree of this family,
for they are broad, and deeply indented on their edges, but for their
utility
2S3 VOYAGE IN SEARCH | | | 03.
utility in making beer. They afforded a bitter and aromatic extract,
which I imagined might be uſed as that of ſpruce ; and on making a
trial of it with malt, I found that I was not miſtaken.
This fine tree is often a yard in thickneſs, and twenty-five or thirty
yards high. Its wood is very hard, of a reddiſh colour, and ſuſceptible Oil
a fine poliſh.
The thick woods we had to the north-north-weſt of our ſhips fur-
niſhed a great number of trees of a moderate height, which grew ex-
tremely well, notwithſtanding the ſhade of the vaſt eucalyptus globulus.
I ſhall give ſome account of a new genus of the family of the hyperi-
cums, which conſtituted the ornament of theſe ſolitary places, and which
I call carpodontos.
The calyx has four ſcarious leaves, united at the upper part: they fall
off as the corolla unfolds itſelf.
The corolla is formed of four petals, attached beneath the germen.
The ſtamens are numerous, (thirty or forty.)
The germen is elongated, and ſurmounted with ſix or ſeven ſtyles, each
of which has an acute ſtigma.
The capſule opens into ſix or ſeven valves, woody, cleft internally
throughout their whole length, and bidentated at their ſuperior extre-
mity.
The ſeeds are few, and flattened.
This tree, which does not reach a height of more than eight or ten
yards, is but ſlender.
Its leaves are oval, oppoſite, coriaceous, ſhining, and covercq with a
thin film of reſin, which tranſudes from the upper part: the under part
is whitiſh, and the lateral ribs are ſcarcely perceptible on it,
I have given it the name of carpodontos lucida,
Explanation of the Figures, Plate XVIII.
Fig. 1. Branch of the carpodontos lucida,
Fig. 2. Flower with the calyx already ſeparated at its baſe,
Fig. 3, Flower viewed in front.
Fig. 4.
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y EBRUARY..] OF LA ["EROUSE. 239
Fig. 4. Poſterior part of the flower, where the calyx may be obſerved,
which ſometimes remains attached to it by one of its ſcales, after the co-
rolla is unfoldcq.
Fig. 5. The petal.
Fig. 6. The ſtamens magnificq.
& Ty
pr
Fig. 7. The germen.
Fig. 8. The capſule.
FEBRUARY 2d. We had planned a viſit to the higheſt of the mountains
in this part of New Holland, the various ſites of which gave us hopes of
a great number of new productions. Each of us took proviſion for five
days, which we preſumed would afford us ſufficient time for our purpoſe.
Accordingly we ſet off very early in the morning, with a tolerable ſtock
of biſcuit, cheeſe, bacon, and brandy, our uſual ſtore on diſtant excurſions.
When we had proceeded about half way on the road we had before
taken, in our journey to South Cape, we found an extenſive opening
through the woods, which facilitated our progreſs weſterly, as far as the
foot of the hills, that we were obliged to croſs; and then we plunged into
the midſt of the woods, with no other guide but the compaſs.
We direéted our way to the north, advancing ſlowly from the obſtacles
preſented us at every ſtep by vaſt trees lying one upon another. Moſt of
theſe, blown down by the violence of the winds, had torn up in their
fall part of the ſoil that bore them ; others, that had fallcm in conſequence
of their age, were every where rotten, and the lower part of their trunks
was frequently ſcen ſtanding amidſt the wreck of their upper parts, that
lay in huge heaps around.
After a very laborious walk, we at length reached the ſummit of a
mountain, whence we perceived to the ſouth the middle of the roadſtead
of South Cape, and to the north-weſt the large mountain, toward which
we dire&ted our ſteps.
Night ſoon obliging us to halt, we kindled a large fire, round which we
repoſed; and a comfortable ſleep diffipated the fatigues of the day. We
ſlept in the open air, for we ſhould have found it difficult, to contruct a
ſhelter in a ſhort time among the large trees, as their branches were moſtly
O O ‘Yo Gr
290 *
VOYAGE IN SEARCH ſº.
near the ſummit, and this part of the foreſt was deſtitute of ſhrubs. We
looked in vain for ſome large trunks hollowed by fire; theſe are to be
found only in places frequented by the natives. We had ſeen a great
number on the borders of the ſea, where we had obſerved many paths,
which the natives had cleared ; but nothing gave us any intimation that
they had ever come into the midſt of theſe thick foreſts.
The air was extremely calm ; and about midnight I awaked, when,
ſolitary in the midſt of theſe ſilent woods, the majeſty of which was half
diſcloſed to me by the feeble gleam of the ſtars, I felt myſelf penetrated
with a ſentiment of admiration of the grandeur of nature, which it is be-
yond my power to expreſs.
3d. At day-break we reſumed our journey in the ſame direétion as be-
fore. Our difficulties increaſed more and more. The trunks of trees lying
one upon another often preſented an almoſt impenetrable barrier, obliging
us to climb to the uppermoſt, and then to walk from tree to tree, at the
hazard of a fall from a conſiderable height; for ſeveral were covered with
a ſpongy bark, ſo wet with the damp continually prevailing in theſe thick
woods, that our path was extremely ſlippery, as well as difficult.
The day was confiderably advanced, when we arrived at the ſummit of
a mountain, from which we perceived the whole extent of a long valley,
which we had ſtill to croſs, before we could reach the foot of the moun-
tains, which we had ſet out to viſit. The intermediate ſpace appeared to
be about eighteen miles; and this ſpace was occupied by foreſts, as thick
as thoſe through which we had juſt penetrated. It was to be apprehended,
that it would take us upwards of two days, to reach the end of our in-
tended journey; even if we were not retarded by extenſive marſhes, or
other obſtacles, which we could not poſſibly foreſee. It would require
nearly as long a time to return ; and from this calculation, our proviſion
would be expended three days before thc termination of our journey.
Theſe foreſts in the mean time afforded nothing that could contribute to
our ſubſiſtence ; and conſequently we were obliged to relinquiſh our de-
ſign.
The great chain of mountains appeared to ſtretch from the north-eaſt
to the ſouth-weſt, through a vaſt cztent of country.
FEBRUARY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 20
In the foreſts we had juſt traverſed, we found the ſame kind of ſtones
which we had already met with towards South Cape. Seeing this Cape
ſouth by eaſt, we took this direction, and went to ſpend the night on
the ſkirts of thc foreſt, near a rivulet, which runs to the foot of the
mountains.
4th. The difficulty of penetrating through the woods, made us reſolve
in future to follow the ſhore as far as we could, and avail ourſelves of
the openings that terminated on it, to proceed into the interior part of the
country. In this manner we could traverſe a confiderable cztent of
ground in little time; but it was neceſſary for us firſt to paſs the cliff
that projećted into the ſea, and had ſtopped us a few days before. By
freſh attempts at length we ſucceeded, and, aſter ſurmounting the greateſt
difficulties, we penetrated through the thick woods that oppoſed our paſ-
ſage. On quitting theſe we were able to continue our journey along the
fea-ſide, the way being ſufficiently eaſy, as the mountain terminated at
the ſhore by a gentle ſlope: but we were ſoon obliged to climb over ſteep
rocks, at the foot of which the ſea broke in a tremendous manner. This
road, notwithſtanding its difficulty, was frequented by the natives, for we
found in it one of their ſpears. This weapon was no more than a very
ſtraight long ſtick, which they had not taken the pains to ſmooth, but
which was pointed at each end.
The ſide of the mountains being expoſed for a conſiderable extent, we
obſerved a horizontal vein of coal, the greateſt thickneſs of which did
not exceed four inches. We noticed it for the ſpace of more than three
hundred yards. The ſtratum beneath it was ſand ſtone ; that above, a
dark brown ſchiſt. From theſe indications I preſume, that excellent coal
may be found in abundance at a greater depth. It is well known, that
the richeſt mines of this fucl are commonly found bencath ſand ſtone.
The ruſt, with which I perceived the water, that trickled from the
rocks, highly coloured, was the firſt indication theſe nountains afforded
me of their containing iron; but it was not long before I found fine frag-
ments of hematites of a bronze red colour, and farther on an ochry earth
of a tolerably bright red. Small ſeparate fragments of tripoli alſo were
O O 2 ſcattercd
292 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
feattered about in the way we took ; probably ſeparated from the higher
ſtrata, which we could not diſtinguiſh, as they were covered by the earth
that tumbled down in large maſtes.
Several new ſpecies of 'oheſia grew out from the clefts of the rocks,
which became more and rºore ſteep. Some of them were perpendicular
cliffs, more than two lºundred yards in height above the level of the ſea.
Very recent marks of the earth having tumbled down made us reſolve
to take our way through the woods, and not to approach the cliffs again
without the greateſt caution.
For ſome time we proceeded amid ſhrubs, moſt of which were of the
heath family (crica), or that of dio/hyros.
Our attention was ſoon called to a fearful ſound, the repetitions of which
teemed to obey the motions of the waves, and with the greateſt aſtoniſh-
ment we beheld the terrible ſpectacle of the deſtructive effects of the ſea,
continually undermining theſe cliffs. The baſe of an enormous rock was
already buried in the waves, while its ſummit was hollowed into a vaſt
arch, ſuſpended at the height of more than two hundred yards, which,
: the impetuous waves that broke againſt its ſides.
Having paſſed the firſt two capes to the weſt of South Cape, we re-
tarned towards the latter, where we ſpent a very bad night, for unfortu-
matcly we were at no great diſtance from ſome ſtagnant waters, and the
...treme calmneſs of the air expoſed us to all the fury of the moſchettoes,
5th. Morning being the time of low water, we hoped to be cnabled,
iy its means, to procure ſome ſhell-fiſh, of which the bad quality of our
| roviſion made us feel a preſſing want : but the breeze ſetting in from the
ſca diſappointed us, by raiſing the water nearly as high as it would have
bºth at tood tide. Thus we were obliged to content ourſely cº with our
ſalt prºviſiºn.
The caſcade at South Cape, from which a great deal of water fell into
the ſea, when Captain Furneaux landed thcre, was nearly dry at this time.
From the marks of its bed, however, it was caſy to perceive that its run
rauſt be conſiderable in the rainy ſeaſon.
Wº:
FEBRUARY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 203
We found a dead ſeal on the ſhore, of the ſpecies called phoca moniacus.
Two ſevere contuſions on its head gave us reaſon to ſuppoſe, that it had
been driven againſt ſome rocks by the violence of the waves, which it had
not ſtrength to ſurmount.
Bending our courſe toward our anchoring place, we found two large
pools to the eaſt-north-eaſt of South Cape and as we went round them,
we ſaw on their borders ſeveral burrows of kangarous. A new ſpecies of
itricularia diſplayed its beautiful flowers on the ſurface of their tranquil
waters. I was aſtoniſhed that theſe ſtagnant pools did not exhale a fetid
ſmell, as is uſually the caſe ; but it is probable, that the water is ſpeedily
renewed by filtering through the ground.
It was three o'clock in the afternoon when we arrived on board. One
of the gunners of the Eſperance, named Boucher, we learned had died,
during our abſence, of a conſumption.
6th and 7th. After having deſcribed and prepared the ſubjects of natural
hiſtory, which I had collečted the preceding days, l employed the remainder
of my time in viſiting the low lands to the ſouth-caſt. The woods here were
eaſily penetrated, as the trees ſtood at ſome diſtance from each other. Al-
moſt every where I found the ſoil an excellent mould. I cut ſpecimens
of ſeveral ſorts of wood, to find out the different uſes for which each might
be employed. That fine trec, which I imagine to be of the coniferous fa-
mily, and which I have already mentioned, gave conſiderable reſiſtance to
the ſaw : no doubt it will furniſh the moſt connpact timber of any of that
family.
It had long been my wiſh, that the greater part of the ſeeds we had
brought from Europe, capable of ſucceeding in this climate, might be
ſown on this part of the coaſt in a good mould ſufficiently watered: but
on my return I ſaw with regret that a very dry and very ſandy ſpot,
pretty near the head of the bay, had been dug up and ſown.
Early in the morning of the 8th, the gardener and I, with two of the
crew, ſet off for port Dentrecaſteaux, intending to ſpend two days in
examining its cuvirons. We landed at the mouth of the harbour, on
*- : ,
l US
204 VOYAGE IN SEARCHI - ſ: 76.
º
7 *
its weſtern ſide; and fortunately found ourſelves on a bank of Oyſters, ºf
which we collečted an abundant ſtore.
It was with pleaſure we ſaw once more a place, which we had viſited
ſeveral times the preceding year. Moſt of the little rivulets we had then
met with, and even that where we procured our water, were now dry.
We ſoon reached thc head of the harbour, and found, as we procceded
up the river, very cloſe and marſhy thickets, which often retarded our pro-
greſs.
Snakes are not common at Diemen's Cape, yet I ſaw two, fleeping in
the fun, on large trunks of trees; on our approach they withdrew into
the hollow trunks, that ſerved them for a retreat. They were of the ſpc-
<ics I had found the year before, which is by no means dangerous.
Though the courſe of the river was obſtructed by large trees at almoſt
cvery ſtep, we were obliged to go up it near a mile and half, before we
could find one, by means of which we could croſs to the oppoſite bank
without too great difficulty.
From this place we proceeded north-eaſt, traverſing very commodiouſly
a ſpacious plain, part of the vegetables growing on which had lately been
burned by the natives. In a ſhort time we reached the head of the great
lake, along the borders of which we walked as far as the ſca, and having
travelled over a conſiderable extent of ground, we returned to its extre-
mity, to ſpend the night near a rivulet, which we had already croſſed. As
the weather was very fine, we lay down to ſleep in the open air, ſheltered
ſolely by largc trunks of trees, that lay on the ground ; but the picroing
cold we felt ſoon obliged us to kindle a large fire.
It is remarkable, that the temperature of the air, at this extremity of
New Holland, is ſometimes 17” lowcr in the night than it was in the day.
(From 23" to 0° of the mercurial thermometer graduated according to
ſteaumur, which is always to be underſtood). In fact this narrow land,
lying in a pretty high latitude, is not very capable of long retaining thc
licat, which has becn imparted to it by the rays of the ſun. This great
difference of temperature was Ycry inconvcnicnt to us, as it obliged us to
encumber
FEBRUARY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 295
encumber ourſelves with clothes, which we found very troubleſome in the
day. I muſt obſerve, however, that the variation of the thermometer on
board at the ſame time did not excced 5° or 0°.
9th. As ſoon as day-light appeared, while the two men that accompa-
nied us were ſtill aſleep, the gardener and I proceeded towards the part of
the lake oppoſite that which we had viſited the evening before.
I had the pleaſure of collecting ſeveral ſpecies of mimoſa with ſimple
leaves, all the parts of frućtification of which were unfolded. I had already
ſome ſpecimens, but they were very imperfect.
After walking at leaſt a couple of miles, we fancied we heard human
voices before us. Redoubling our attention, we advanced a few ſteps,
when a ſudden cry, ariſing from ſeveral voices unitcd, iſſued from one ſpot,
and we perceived through the trees a number of the natives, moſt of
whom appeared to be fiſhing on the borders of the lake. As we were un-
armed, and ignorant of their intentions, we did not heſitate to return to
our companions, each of whom had a muſket ; and immediately croſſed
through the wood, that the ſavages might not ſee us, left they ſhould be
tempted to purſue us, on perceiving our flight.
When we had told our men the occaſion of our return, I expreſted my
ſtrong deſire to have an interview with theſe people. It was necciary
firſt, however, to prepare our means of defence, ſo that we might be able
to avail ourſelves of them in caſe of an aſſault. Accordingly we got
bad
C
where we had ſect, the nati, es. It was now only nine o'clock. W.
gone only a few ſºcºs lºſºe we met them. The men and youths were
ranged in front, neally in a ſemi-circle : the women, children, and girls,
were a few paces diſtant behind. As their manner did not appear to in-
dicate any hoſtile deſign, I heſitated not to go up to the old cit, who ac
cepted, with a very good grace, a piece of biſcuit I offered him, of v. hich
he had ſeen me cat, I hºn held out my hand to him as a ſign of friend-
ihip, and had the pleaſure tº perceive, that he comprehended my meaning
very well ; he gave the his, inclining himſelf a little, and raiſing at the
ſame time the left foot, which he carried backward in proportion as he
bent
296 VOYAGE IN SEARC} { | 1793.
bent his body forward. Theſe motions were accompanied by a pleaſing
ºſmile.
My companions alſo advanced up to the others, and immediately the
beſt underſtanding prevailed among us. They received with great joy the
neckcloths which we offered them : the young people approached nearer
to us; and one of them had the gencrofity to give me a few ſmall ſhells of
the whelk kind, pierced near the middle, and ſtrung like a necklace. This
ornament, which he called caſtlaride, was the only one he poſſeſſed, and
he wore it round his head. A handkerchief ſupplicq the place of this
preſent, gratifying the utmoſt wiſhes of my ſavage, who advanced toward
me, that I might tic it round his head for him, and who expreſſed the
greateſt joy, as he lifted his hand up to feel it again and again. We wore
abundance of clothes, as I have already obſerved, on account of the cold-
neſs of the nights; and we beſtowed the greater part on theſe iſlanders.
The women were very deſirous of coming nearer to us; and though
the men made ſigns to them, to keep at a diſtance, their curioſity was
ready every momcnt to break through all other conſiderations. The
gradual increaſe of confidence, however, that took place, obtained them
permiſſion to approach. It appeared to us very aftoniſhing, that in ſo
high a latitude, where, at a period of the year ſo little advanced as the
preſent, we already experienced the cold at night to be pretty ſevere,
theſe people did not feel the neceſſity of clothing themſelves. Even the
women were for the moſt part entirely naked, as well as the men. Some
of them only had the ſhoulders and part of the back covercq with a
kangarou's ſkin, worn with the hair next the body : and among theſe
we obſerved two, each of whom had an infant at the breaſt. The ſole
garment of one was a ſtrip of kangarou's ſkin, about two inches broad,
which was wrapped ſix or ſeven times round the waiſt; another had a
collar of ſkin round the neck ; and ſome had a ſlender cord bound ſeve-
ral times round the head. I aſterwards learned, that moſt of thcſe cords
were fabricated from the bark of a ſhrub of the ſpurge family, very com-
mon in this country. ...!
A pole-axc, which we uſed for cutting off ſome branches from the
trCCS,
… // -
*** *** *****
…” Zºº”
2 ºr 22. %
%.

FEBRUARY.] {}} f_A PERC ( Sj. 241.
trees, excited the admiration of theſe people. As they perceived us wil-
ling to give them any thing in our poſſeſſion, they did not ſcruple to beg
it; and when we granted their requeſt, they were overcome with joy.
They were fully ſenſible of the value of our knives, likewiſe ; and re-
ceived a few tin veſſels with pleaſure. When I ſhowed them my watch,
it attracted their deſire ; and one of them, in particular, expreſſed his
wiſh to poſſeſs it: but he quickly deſiſted from his requeſt, when he
found, that I was not willing to part with it.
The readineſs with which we gave them our things, no doubt, led
them to preſume, that they might take any thing belonging to us, with-
out aſking for it: this obliged us to ſet bounds to their deſires; but we
found, to our great ſatisfaction, that they returned to us, without the
leaſt reſiſtance, ſuch things as we could not diſpenſe with for our own
uſe.
I had given them ſeveral articles, without requiring any thing in re-
turn : but I wiſhed to get a kangarou's ſkin, when, among the ſavages
about us, there happened to be only a young girl, who had one. When
I propoſed to her, to give it me in exchange for a pair of pantaloons, ſhe
ran away, to hide herſelf in the woods. The other natives appeared truly
hurt at her refuſal, and called to her ſeveral times. At length ſhe yielded
to their intreatics, and came to bring me the ſkin. Perhaps it was from
timidity only, that ſhe could not prevail on herſelf to part with this kind
of garment; in return for which ſhe received a pair of pantaloons, leſs
uſeful to her, according to the cuſtoms of the ladies in this country, than
the ſkin, which ſerved to cover the ſhoulders. We ſhewed her the man-
ner of wearing them; but, notwithſtanding, it was neceſſary for us, to
put them on for her ourſelves. To this ſhe yielded with the beſt grace
in the world, reſting both her hands on our ſhoulders, to ſupport herſelf.
while ſhe lifted up firſt one leg, then the other, to put them into this new
garment. Defirous of avoiding every cauſe of offence, we behaved with
all the gravity we could on the occaſion.
This party of ſavages conſiſted of two and forty, ſeven of whom were
men, eight wonen: the reſt appeared to be their children : and among
P P theſe
298 \ OYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
theſe we obſerved ſeveral marriageable girls, ſtill leſs clothed than moſt of
the-nothers. We invited them all to come and fit near our fire; and
when they arrived there, one of the ſavages informed us by unequivocal
figns, that he had come to reconnoitre us during the night. That we
might underſtand he had ſeen us aſleep, he inclined his head on one ſide,
łaying it on the palm of his right hand, and cloſing his eyes; and with
the other he pointed out the ſpot, where we had paſſed the night. He
then acquainted us, by ſigns equally expreſſive, that he was at the time on
the other ſide of the brook, whence he obſerved us. In fact, one of us had
been awakencó about the middle of the night by a ruſtling among the
branchcs, and had even fancied, that he heard ſome broken off: but, being
greatly fatigued, he had ſoon fallen aſleep again, perſuaded it was a kan-
garou, that had come to viſit us. Our fire had been a guide to this na-
'tive, whom the party had ſent to reconnoitre us: while we had ſlept with
the utmoſt tranquillity, notwithſtanding we had been at the mercy of
theſe ſavages the whole night. One of the men that accompanied us,
then ſaid, that in the evening, at ſunſet, he perceived ſome ſmoke on the
other ſide of the lakc, whence he preſumed, that ſome of the natives
were aſſembled there ; but he forgot to mention it to us, when we joined
them.
We were deſirous of ſhowing theſe ſavages the effects of our fire-arms,
after having given them to underſtand, that they had nothing to fear.
They appeared, however, to be a little frightened at their report.
Theſe people have woolly hair, and let their beards grow. Plates VI,
VII, and VIII, will give more accurate ideas of their perſons, and exhibit
the charaćteriſtics that diſtinguiſh them more ſtrikingly, than a long
and minute deſcription. It may be obſerved (Plate VII), that in the
children the upper jaw advances conſiderably beyond the lower; but
ſinking as they grow up, both jaws are nearly even in the adult. Their
ſkin is not of a very deep black; but no doubt they conſider extreme
blackneſs as a beauty, for, in order to heighten this colour beyond its na-
tural ſtate, they rub themſelves over, particularly on the upper parts of
the body, with powdered charcoal.
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FEBRUARY...] OF LA PEROUSE, 209
On their ſkin, particularly on the breaſt and ſhoulders, may be obſerved
tubercles ſymmetrically arranged, exhibiting ſometimes lines four inches in
length, at other times points placed at different diſtances. The application,
by which theſe riſings were produced, had not deſtroyed the cellular men-
brane, however, for they were of the ſame colour as the reſt of the ſkin.
The cuſtom of extracting two of the front teeth of the upper jaw,
which, from the accounts of ſome voyagers, had been ſuppoſed generº
among the inhabitants of this country, certainly has not been introduced
into this tribe ; for we did not ſee one among them, in whom a fingle
tooth of the upper jaw was wanting; and indeed they had all very good
teeth.
One of the ſailors, that accompanied us, thought he could not regale
them better than with a glaſs of brandy : but, accuſtomed to drink no-
thing but water, thcy quickly ſpit it out, and it ſeemed to have given
them a very diſagreeable ſenſation.
Theſe ſavages, going completely naked, are liable to wound them-
ſelves, particularly in the lower extremities, when they paſs through the
woods. We obſerved one, who walked with difficulty, and one of whoſe
feet was wrapped up in a piece of ſkin.
I had not perceived the young girls for ſome time, and imagined that
thcy had all retired into the woods; but happening to look behind me,
I ſaw, with ſurpriſe, ſeven who had perched themſelves on a ſtout limb
of a tree, more than three yards from the ground, whence they attentively
watched our ſlighteſt movements. As they all ſquatted on the bough,
they formed a pleaſing group.
We were at a conſiderable diſtance from the ſhore, where a boat was
to wait for us, to take us on board. It was time for us to be on our way
toward it. We were quitting this peaceable party with regret, when we
ſaw the men and four of the youths ſeparating from the reſt, in order to
accompany us. One of the moſt robuſt preſently went into the wood,
whence he returned almoſt inſtantly, holding in his hand two long ſpears.
As he came néar, he made ſigns to us, that we necd be under no appre-
henſions: on the contrary, it appeared as if he were deſirous of protecting
P p 2 l S
3OO VOYAGE IN SEARC, [1793.
us with his arms. No doubt they had left their wennons in the wood,
when they came to meet us in the morning, that they might give us no
alarm.
The other natives, whom we had juſt quitted, approached our party.
Immediately on our requeſting him, who carried the ſpears, to give us a
fpecimen of his dexterity, he graſped one of them with the right hand near
the middle, than raiſing it as high as his head, and holding it horizontally,
he drew it back toward himſelf three times following with a jerk, which
gave it a very perceptible tremulous movement at each extremity, when
he darted it forward near a hundred paces. The weapon, ſupported
throughout its whole length by the column of air beneath it, flew in a
tolerably horizontal direction more than three fourths of the diſtance.
The tremulous motion impreſſed on it contributed, unqueſtionably, to
accelerate its progreſs, and to fupport it longer in the air.
The ſavage was very ready to gratify our wiſhes, by launching his ſpear
ſeveral times following. He then aimed at an object, which we pointed
(ºut to him, and every time was near enough to it, to give us a high idea
of his ſkill. Preſently after another ſhowed us two holes in a kangarou's
ſkin, which had becil made apparcntly with thc point of a ſpear, giving us
thus to underſtand, that they cmployed this weapon to kill theſe animals.
In reality, they launched it with ſufficient force to pierce the animal
through and through,
At length we parted with our new guides, whoſe pace was ſufficiently
ſlow for us to follow them with caſe. It ſeemed as if they were not ac-
cuſtomed to take a long walk without interruption : for we had ſcarcely
bc.cn half an hour on our way, before thcy invited us to fit down, ſaying
medi; and we immediately ſtopped. This halt laſted but a few minutes,
when they roſe, ſaying to us tangara, which ſignifics “let us ſet off.” On
his we reſumed our journey : and thcy made us halt again, in the ſame
'manner, four times, at ncarly cqual diſtances.
The attentions laviſhed on us by thcſe ſavages aſtoniſhed us. If our
path were interruptcd by heaps of dry branches, ſome of them walked
before, and removed them to either ſide : they cv.cn broke off ſuch as
ſtretched acroſs our way fronn the trees that had fallen down.
FEBRUARY.] OF LA PEROUSE, 3O 1
We could not walk on the dry graſs without ſlipping cycry moment,
particularly where the ground was ſloping ; but theſe good ſavages, to
prevent our falling, took hold of us by the arm, and thus ſupported us.
We found it difficult to perſuade them that none of us would fall, even
if unaſſiſted ; and thcy continued, nevertheleſs, to beſtow on us theſe
marks of affectionate kindneſs; nay, they frequently ſtationed them-
ſelves, one on each ſide, to ſupport us the better. As they obſtinately
perſiſted in paying us this obliging attention, we no longer declined it.
They no doubt conceived it to be our intention to return to Port Den-
trecaſteaux, for we were twice miſtaken in the road, and they both times
pointed out to us that which led dire&tly to it.
A trifling incident gave us reaſon to preſume, that they ſometimes
catch birds with their hands. A paroquet, of the ſpecies figured in
Plate X, which I ſhall deſcribe preſently, flew by us, and pitched on the
ground at a little diſtance. Immediately two of the young ſavages ſet off
to catch it, and were on the point of putting their hands upon it, when
the bird took wing.
It may be preſumed, that there are no ſnakes at Diemen's Cape, the
bite of which is to be drcaded : at leaſt, if there be any ſuch, the natives
well know how to diſtinguiſh them. They pointed out one to us, gliding
through the graſs very near them, yet they did not appear to be under the
lcaſt apprehenſion from it.
At length they brought us near the place, where we had anchored thc
year before. The oldeſt of them was very thirſty ; and in mediately made
onc of the youths fetch him an oyſter-ſhell, to ſerve as a cup, which he
“mptied ſeveral times before his thirſt was quenched.
As we were very near the garden, which had been formed the preceding
year by Citizen Lahaye, gardener to the expedition, we reſolved to viſit it,
ind took the opportunity, when the ſavages had feated themſelves. We
wiſhed to leave them with our two ſailors, left they ſhould go and do any
inj ury to ſuch vegetables as might have ſucceeded ; but one of them was
reſolved to accompany us. He examined attentively the plants in the
garden, and pointed them out with his finger, appearing to diſtinguiſh
them
3O2. VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
them perfectly from their indigenous vegetables. We ſaw, with regret,
that there remained only a ſmall number of cabbages, a few potatoes,
fonne radiſhes, creſſes, wild ſuccory, and ſorrel, all in a bad condition: no
doubt they would have ſucceeded better, had they been ſown nearer a
rivulet, which we obſerved to the weſt. I expected to have found ſome
creſſes at leaſt ſown on its banks; that I did not muſt ſurely have been
owing to forgetfulneſs on the part of the gardener.
Our boat was not yet arrived. We were very deſirous that theſe ſa-
vages ſhould have a near view it; and we hoped, likewiſe, to be able to
prevail on ſome of them to go on board with us; but they were already
leaving us to rejoin their families. At our invitation, however, they de-
ferred their departure, and we walked together along the beach toward the
entrance of the harbour. Some trees, that lay on the ground along the
ſhore, gave them an opportunity of diſplaying their agility to us by leap-
ing over them. We were too much fatigued to give them an exhibition
of what we were capable of doing; but I believe, ſavages as they were,
they would have found themſelves excelled by an European tolerably ex-
pert at this exerciſe.
As ſoon as the boat came, we invited ſome of them to go on board hcr
with us. After taking a long while to reſolve on it, three of them con-
ſented to get into the boat; but it appeared that they had no intention
to quit their party, for they got out again in great haſte, as ſoon as we pre-
pared to puſh off from the ſhore.
We then ſaw them walk with tranquillity along the ſea-ſide, looking
toward us from time to time, and uttering cries of joy.
10th. The next day we returned in a large party to theſe ſavages.
We rowed along the ſhore, beyond Port Dentrecaſteaux, for ſome
time, when a fire we perceived not far from the ſeaſide induced us to land.
Some of the natives ſoon came to meet us, expreſſing by their crics
the pleaſure they felt at ſeeing us again.
Our muſician had brought on ſhore his violin, imagining that he ſhould
excite as much enthuſiaſm among thcm by ſome noiſy tunes, as we had
obſerved in the iſlanders at Bouka; but his ſelf-love was truly mortificq,
al:
FEBRUARY.] OF LA PEROUSE, 3O3
at the indifference ſhown to his performance here. Say ages, in
are not very ſenſible to the tones of ſtringed inſtruments,
As we aſcended the heights that ſkirt the ſea, we ſoon found a party of
thoſe natives, by whom we had been ſo civilly received the day before. A
lively joy was depicted on all their features, when they ſaw us drawing
near. There were nineteen of them, round three ſmall fires, making
their meal on bernacles, which they roaſted on the coals, and ate as
faſt as they were ready. Every now and then ſome of the women
went to pick theſe ſhell-fiſh from under the neighbouring rocks, and did
not rcturn till they had filled their baſkets with them. On the ſame fires
we obſerved them broil that ſpecies of ſca-wrack, which is called fircus
fulmatus, and when it was ſoftencil to a certain point, they tore it to
pieces to eat it.
The pains taken by one of the mothers to quiet her infant, yet at the
breaſt, who cried at the firſt fight of us, appeared to us very cngaging.
She could not pacify him, till ſhe covered his eyes with her hand, that he
might not ſee us.
None of theſe people appeared with arms: but, probably, they had left
them in the wood near ; for ſeveral of us having expreſſed an intention of
going into it, one of the ſavages urgently cntreated them not to go that
way. Our people did not perſiſt in it, left they ſhould give them ſome
cauſe of rniſtruſt: part of the boat's crew, however, in order to deceive
the vigilance of this centinel, walked a little way along the ſhore, that
they might enter the wood, without being obſerved by him ; but no
ſooner did one of the women perceive thcir deſign, than the uttercq hor-
rible crics, to give notice to the other ſavages, who intreated them to re-
turn toward thic ſea.
We did nº now to what to aſcribe their repugnance for our vicinds,
but they we taſte none that we offered them. They would not ever,
ſuffer their children to eat the ſugar we gave them, being very careful to
take it out of their mouths the moment they were going to tafie it. Yet
their conſidence in us was ſo great, that one of the women, who was
fuckling a child, was not afraid to entruſt it to ſeveral of us.
I imagineč.
304 VOYAGE IN SEARCH
ilºgo.
I imagined that theſe people, paſſing moſt of their nights in the Open
air, in a climate of which the temperature is ſo variable, muſt have been
ſubject to violent inflammations of the cyes : yet all of them appeared tº
have their fight very good, one only excepted, who had a cataract.
Some of them ſat on kangarou's ſkins, and ſome others had a little pil-
low, which they called roërë, near a quarter of a yard long, and covered
with ſkin, on which they reſted one of their elbows.
We obſerved with ſurprize the fingular poſture of the wonen, when
they fit on the ground. Though for the moſt part they are entirely naked,
it appears to be a point of decorum with theſe ladies, as they fit with their
knees aſunder, to cover with one foot, what modeſty bids then conceal
in that ſituation.
Theſe people ſecmed to be ſo nearly in a ſtate of nature, that their moſt
trifling actions appeared to me worthy of obſervation. I ſhall not paſs
over in ſilence, therefore, the correction a father gave one of his children,
for having thrown a ſtone at the back of another younger than himſelf: it
was merely a light ſlap on the ſhoulder, which made hin, ſhed tears, and
prevented his doing ſo again.
The painter to the expedition expreſſed to theſe ſavages a wiſh of having
his ſkin covered like theirs with the powder of charcoal. His requeſt, as
might naturally be ſuppoſed, was favourably received ; and immediately
one of the natives ſelected ſome of the moſt friable coals, which he ground
to powder by rubbing them between his hands. This powder he applied
to all the parts of the body that were uncovercq, employing nothing to
make it adhere beſide the rubbing of the hand, and our friend Piron was
preſently as black as a New-Hollander. The ſavage appeared highly ſa-
tisfied with his performance, which he finiſhed by gently blowing off the
duſt that adhered very ſlightly, taking particular care to remove all that
might have gotten into the eyes. 3.
When we departed for Port Dentrecaſteaux, more than half theft
peaceable natives roſe to accompany us. Four young girls alſo were of
the party, who received with indifference the garments we gave them,
and, that they might not be encumbered with an uſeleſs burden, imme-
diately
FEB T. UAR X.] OF LA PEROUSE. 3 O 3
diately hung them on the buſhes near the path, intending, no doubt, to
take them with them on their return. As a proof that they ſet little va-
lue on ſuch preſents, we did not ſee on any of them one of the garments
that we had given them the day before. Three of theſe young women
were marriageable, and all of them were of very cheerful diſpoſitions. In
one of them it was obſerved that the right breaſt had acquired its fºll ſize,
while the left was ſtill perfectly flat. This temporary deformity had no
effect on the livelineſs of her manner. They ſeveral times ran races on the
ſhore, which was very ſmooth, and ſome of us endeavoured to catch them ;
when we had the pleaſure to ſee, that Europeans could frequently run
better than theſe ſavages. ë
The men followed with a grave pace, cach carrying his hands reſting
one againſt the other upon his loins; or ſometimes the left hand paſſing
behind the back, and graſping the right arm about the middle.
No doubt we loſt much by not underſtanding the language of theſe
natives, for onc of the girls ſaid a great deal to us; ſhe talked a long while
with extraordinary volubility, though ſhe muſt have perceived that we
could not comprehend her meaning; no matter, ſhe muſt talk.
The others attempted more than once to charm us by ſongs, with the
modulation of which I was ſingularly ſtruck, from the great analogy of
the tunes to thoſe of the Arabs in Aſia Minor. Several times two of them
ſung the ſame tune at once, but always one a third above the other, form-
ing a concord with the greateſt juſtneſs.
Amid theſe ſands grew a ſpecies of ficoides, in almoſt every point re-
ſembling the mºſºmbryanthemum caule, or eatable fig-marigold of the Hot-
tentots. It differed completely in the colour of the flowers, indeed,
which were red, while thoſe of the fig-marigold of the Hottentots are
yellow ; but it bore fruit like it, much reſembling in flavour a very ripe
apple. This fruit is a delicacy among the New-Hollanders, who ſeck
for it with care, and cat it as ſoon as they find it.
During this long walk, ſome of our companions took us by the arm
from time to time to affift us.
One of the young girls having perceived at a diſtance a head, which
Q Q thc
306 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
the gunner of the Eſperance had carved on the ſtump of a tree, appeared
at firſt cxtremely ſurprized, and ſtopped ſhort for a moment. She then
went up to it with us, and, after having conſidered it attentively, named
to us the different parts, pointing them out at the ſame time with the
hand.
Soon after we arrived at the entrance of Port Dentrecaſteaux.
Two of the young girls followed the different windings of the ſhore
without miſtruſt, at a diſtance from the other natives, with three of our
ſailors, when theſe took the opportunity of one of the moſt retired places,
to treat them with a degree of freedom, which was received in a very dif-
ferent manner from what they had hoped. The young women imme-
diately fled to the rocks moſt advanced into the ſea, and appeared ready
to leap into it, and ſwim away, if our men had followed them. They
preſently repaired to the place, where we were aſſembled with the other
ſavages ; but it ſeems they did not diſcloſe this adventure, for the moſt
perfeót harmony continued to prevail between us.
Wiſhing to know whether theſe iſlanders were expert ſwimmers, one
of our officers jumped into the water, and dived ſeveral times; but it was
in vain that he invited them to follow his example. They are very good
divers, however, as we had afterwards an opportunity of ſeeing, for it is by
diving they procure a conſiderable part of their food. We invited them
to eat with us ſome oyſters and lobſters, which we had juſt roaſted on the
coals; but they all refuſed, one excepted, who taſted a lobſter. At firſt
we imagined that it was yet too early for their meal-time; but in this we
were miſtaken, for it was not long before they took their repaſt. They
themſelves, however, dreſſed their food, which was ſhell-fiſh of the ſame
kinds, but much more roaſted than what we had offered them.
We obſerved ſome of the ſavages employed in cutting little bits of wood
in the form of a ſpatula, and ſmoothing them with a ſhell, for the pur-
poſe of ſeparating from the rocks limpets and ſea-ears, on which they feaſt
as they get ready.
The time for our returning on board arrived, but none of the natives
would accompany us, they all leaving us, and retiring into the woods.
The
Sºss-
-
sY

11th. The engineer-geographer of the Recherche went in the barge
on the 11th in the morning, to examine the extent of the vaſt bay that
is at the entrance of Dentrecaſteaux ſtrait. For this ſtrait we were ſoon to
fet ſail. -
In the courſe of the day we quitted all the places we had occupied on
ſhore during our ſtay in Rocky Bay. The repairs of both veſſels were
finiſhed. The trial made the year before of the wood of the eucalyptus
globulus, induced our carpenters to cmploy it in preference to the other
ſpecies of the ſame genus.
For my-part I entered into the thick woods to the north-weſt of us.
Several ſpecies of ſhrubs, of the piſtacia family, grow under the ſhade of
the large trees; and the fagara evodia diſtinguiſhed itſelf by its beautiful
foliage. In theſe gloomy places the eye reſted with pleaſure on the car-
podontos lucida, the branches of which were quite covered with fine white
flowers. - *. -
As I advanced toward the ſouth-weſt, I croſſed ſome open ſpots, where
I killed a beautiful ſpecies of paroquet, which I diſtinguiſh by the name
of the black-ſpotted paroquet of Diemen's Cape (See Plate X.). I had
already met with it in ſeveral other places, but always ſuch as were low,
and deſtitute of covert. Very different from the known ſpecies of the ſame
genus it does not perch, for I uniformly obſerved it riſe from among the
graſs, on which it almoſt immediately ſettled again. The ſhape of the feet,
which are furniſhed with very long claws but little curved, ſufficiently
indicate the manners of the bird. Its plumage is green, ſpotted with black;
fome of the ſpots being ſurrounded with little yellowiſh bands. The un-
der part of the wings is aſhen-grey, with a broad band of pale yellow.
Under the belly the black and yellow predominate. The under feath.crs
of the tail are remarkable for tranſverſe bands, alternately black and pale
yellow. A few ſmall reddiſh feathers are obſervable at the baſe of the
beak at the upper part of the ſuperior mandible.
12th. The next day a great number of us, from both ſhips, landed near
Port Dentrecaſteaux, to endeavour to ſee the ſavages again. It was not
long before ſome of them came to meet us, giving us tokens of the
Q q 2 greateſt
3OS VOYAGE IN SEARCH * [1793.
greateſt confidence. They firſt examined with great attention the in-
fides of our boats, and then they took us by the arm, and invited us to
follow them along the ſhore.
We had ſcarcely gone a mile before we found ourſelves in the midſt
of cight-and-forty of the natives; ten men, fourteen women, and twenty-
four children, among whom we obſerved as many girls as boys. Seven
fires were burning, and round each was aſſembled a little family.
The leaſt of the children, frightened at the fight of ſuch a number of
Europeans, immediately took refuge in the arms of their mothers, who
laviſhed on them marks of the greateſt affection. The fears of the
children were ſoon removed ; and they ſhowed us, that they were not
exempt from little paſſions, whence aroſe differences, to which the mo-
thers almoſt immediately put an end by ſlight correction; but they ſoon
found it neceſſary to ſtop their tears by careſſes.
We knew already that theſe ſavages had little taſte for the violin; but
we flattered ourſelves that they would not be altogether inſenſible to its
tones, if lively tunes, and very diſtinct in their meaſure, were played. At
firſt they left us in doubt for ſome time; on which our muſician re-
doubled his exertions, in hopes of obtaining their applauſe; but the bow
dropped from his hand, when he beheld the whole aſſembly ſtopping
their ears with their fingers, that they might hear no more.
Theſe people are covered with vermin. We admired the patience of
a mother, who was a long while employed in freeing one of her children
from them ; but we obſerved with diſguſt that, like moſt of the blacks,
ſhe cruſhed theſe filthy inſects between her teeth, and then ſwallowed
then). It is to be remarked, that apes have the ſame cuſtom.
, he little children were very deſirous of every thing ſhining, and were
not afraid to come up to us, to endeavour to pull off our buttons. Their
mothers, leſs curious with reſpect to their own dreſs than that of their
children, held them to us, that we might decorate them with the orna-
ments which we had intended for themſelves.
I ought not to omit a waggiſh trick, which a young ſavage played one
of our people. The ſailor had laid down a bag full of ſhell-fiſh at the foot
*
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FEBRUARY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 30g
of a rock: the youth ſlily removed it to another place, and let him ſearch,
for it a long time in vain; at length he replaced it where the ſailor had
left it, and was highly diverted with the trick he had played him.
This numerous party was tranſported with admiration, when they ſaw
the effects of gunpowder thrown on the burning coals. They all intreated
us to let them have the pleaſure of ſeeing it ſeveral times.
Not being able to perſuade themſelves that we had none but men
among us, they long believed, notwithſtanding all we could ſay, that the
youngeſt of us were women. Their curioſity on this head carried them
further than we ſhould have expected, for they were not to be convinced,
till they had aſſured themſelves of the fačt.
The women have adopted a mode which I imagine our belles will never
imitate, though it occaſions the diſappearance of a conſiderable part of
the wrinkles that pregnancy occaſions. They have the ſkin of the abdo-
men marked with three large ſemicircular riſings, one above the other:
whether from coquetry, or not, would be difficult to determine.
One of the ſavages had ſeveral marks of very recent burns on the
head. Perhaps they employ the aëtual cautery in many diſeaſes, which
is an eſtabliſhed practice among various other people, and particularly
among moſt of the Indians.
About noon we ſaw them prepare their repaſt. Hitherto we had but
a faint idea of the pains the women take to procure the food requiſite for
the ſubſiſtence of their families. They took each a baſket, and were
followed by their daughters, who did the ſame. Getting on the rocks,
that projećted into the ſea, they plunged from them to the bottom in
ſearch of ſhell-fiſh. When they had been down ſome time, we became
very uneaſy on their account; for where they had dived were ſea-weeds
of great length, among which we obſerved the fucus pyriferus, and we
feared that they might have been entangled in theſe, ſo as to be unable
to regain the ſurface. At length, however, they appeared, and convinced
us that they were capable of remaining under water twice as long as our
ableſt divers. An inſtant was ſufficient for them to take breath, and then
they dived again. This they did repeatedly, till their baſkets were nearly
full,
§ 1 O VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
full. Moſt of them were provided with a little bit of wood, cut into the
ſhape of a ſpatula, of which I ſpoke above; and with theſe they ſeparated
from beneath the rocks, at great depths, very large ſea-cars. Perhaps they
chooſe the biggeſt, for all they brought were of a great ſize. *
On ſeeing the large lobſters, which they had in their baſkets, we were
afraid that they muſt have wounded theſe poor women terribly with their
large claws; but we ſoon found, that they had taken the precaution to kill
them as ſoon as they caught them. They quitted the water only to
bring their huſbands the fruits of their labour; and frequently returned
almoſt immediately to their diving, till they had procured a ſufficient
meal for their families. At other times they ſtaid a little while to warm
themſelves, with their faces toward the fire on which their fiſh was roaſt.
ing, and other little fires burning behind them, that they might be warmcd
on all ſides at once.
It ſeemed as if they were unwilling to loſe a moment's time, for while
they were warming themſelves, they were employed in roaſting fiſh;
forme of which they laid on the coals with the utmoſt caution: though
they took little care of the lobſters, which they threw any where into the
fire, and when they were ready, they divided the claws among the men
and children, reſerving the body for themſelves, which they ſometimes
ate before they returned into the water.
It gave us great pain to ſee theſe poor women condemned to ſuch ſc-
were toil; while, at the ſame time, they ran the hazard of being devourcd
by ſharks, or entangled among the weeds that riſe from the bottom of
the ſea. We often intreated their huſbands to take a ſhare in their la-
bour at leaſt, but always in vain. They remained conſtantly near the
fire, feaſting on the beſt bits, and eating broiled fucus, or fern-roots. Oc-
caſionally they took the trouble to break boughs of trees into ſhort pieces,
to feed the fire, taking care to chooſe the drieſt. From their manner of
breaking them, we found that their ſkulls muſt be very hard; for, taking
hold of the ſticks at each end with the hand, they bent them over their
heads, as we do at the knee, till they broke, Their heads being conſtantly
bare, and often expoſed to all weathcrs, in this high latitude, acquire a
capacity
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FEBRUARY.] OF LA PEROUSE 3 | 1
capacity of reſiſting ſuch efforts: beſides, their hair forms a cuſhion,
which diminiſhes the preſſure, and renders it much leſs painful on the
fummit of the head, than on any other part of the body. Few of the
women, however, could have done as much ; for ſome had their hair cut
pretty ſhort, and wore a ſtring ſeveral times round the head, others had
only a ſimple crown of hair. (See Plates IV. and V.) We made the
ſame obſervation with reſpect to ſeveral of the children, but none of the
men. Theſe had the back, breaſt, ſhoulders, and arms, covered with
downy hair.
Two of the ſtouteſt of the party were ſitting in the midſt of their chil-
dren, and each had two women by his ſide. They informed us by ſigns,
that theſe were their wives, and gave us a freſh proof that polygamy is
eſtabliſhed among them. The other women, who had only one huſband,
were equally careful to let us know it. It would be difficult to ſay
which are the happieſt ; as the moſt laborious of their domeſtic occu-
pations devolve upon them, the former had the advantage of a partner in
them, which perhaps might ſufficiently compenſate their having only a
ſhare in their huſband's affections.
Their meal had continued a long time, and we were much ſurprized
that not one of them had yet drank : but this they deferred, till they
were fully ſatisfied with eating. The women and girls then went to
fetch water with the veſſels of ſea-weed, of which I have already ſpoken,
getting it at the firſt place they came to, and ſetting it down by the men,
who drank it without ceremony, though it was very muddy and ſtagnant.
Then they finiſhed their repaſt.
When we returned towards Port Dentrecaſteaux, moſt of the ſavages
accompanied us; and before they left us, they gave us to underſtand,
that, in two days, by proceeding along the ſhore, they ſhould be very
near our ſhips. To inform us that they ſhould make this journey in two
days, they pointed out with their hands the diurnal motion of the ſun,
and expreſſed the number two by as many of their fingers.
When we re-embarked to go on board, theſe good people followed us
with their eyes for ſome time, before they left the ſhore, and then they
diſappeared
312 VOYAGE IN. Sº ARCH | 1793.
diſappeared in the woods. Their way brought them at times to the ſhore
again, of which we were immediately informed by the crics of joy, wººl,
which they made the air reſound. Theſe teſtimonics of pleaſure did :3:
ceaſe till we loſt ſight of them from the diſtance.
During the whole time we ſpent with them, nothing appeared to indi-
cate that they had any chiefs. Each family, on the contrary, ſeemed
to us, to live in perfect independence: though we obſerved in the chil-
dren the greateſt ſubordination to their parents, and in the women the
fame to their huſbands. It appeared, that the women were careful to
avoid giving their huſbands any occaſion for jealouſy : though, when we
returned on board, one of the crew boaſted of the favours he had received
from one of the beauties of Cape Diemen; but it is difficult to ſay, how
far his ſtory was founded on truth, * /
13th. On the 24th I made an excurſion to the ſouth-eaſt, where J found
an opportunity of adding to the obſervations I had already made reſpecting
the different productions of the country.
14th. The next day every thing was ready for our departure, and we
waited only for a fair wind to ſet ſail: but being delayed by a calm, we
faw with pleaſure, that the ſavages, who, at our laſt interview, had pro-
miſed to come near our anchoring-place within two days, had kept their
words. In fact, a little before noon we perceived a fire not far from our
watering-place; and there could be no doubt that it was kindled by them,
as all our crew were on board. A great number of us immediately re-
paired in ſeveral boats to the place of rendezvous. It was the firſt time
that General Dentrecaſteaux had the pleaſure of ſeeing any of the natives.
They ſoon quitted their fire, and proceeded for ſome time through the
paths made in the wood along the ſhore, in order to come ſtill nearer to
us. We went to meet thern ; and when we were near them they
ſtopped, appearing well pleaſed at ſeeing us come aſhore. There were
five of them. One of them carried a piece of decayed wood in his hand,
lighted at one end, and burning ſlowly. He uſed this kind of match in
order to keep fire, and amuſed himſelf now and then with ſetting it to a
tuft, where there were ſome very dry herbs. The others being invited
by
FEERUARY. OF LA PER OUSE. 3 l (;
by ſome of our crew to dance in a ring with them, imitated all their
movements tolerably well. We made them preſents of a great number
of things, which they let us hang round their necks with ſtrings, and ſoon
they were almoſt covered with them, apparently to their great ſatisfac-
tion : but they gave us nothing, for they had brought nothing with them,
probably that they might walk with the more facility.
A native, to whom we had juſt given a hatchet, diſplayed great dex-
terity at ſtriking ſeveral times following in the ſame place, thus attempt-
ing to imitate one of our ſailors, who had cut down a tree. We ſhowed
him that he muſt ſtrike in different places, ſo as to cut out a notch, which
he did immediately, and was tranſported with joy when the tree was
felled by his ſtrokes. They were aſtoniſhed at the quickneſs with which
we ſawed the trunk in two ; and we made them a preſent of ſome hand-
ſaws, which they uſed with great readineſs, as ſoon as we had ſhown them
the way.
From the manner in which we had ſeen them procure fiſh, we had rea-
ſon to preſume that they had no fiſh-hooks: accordingly we gave them
ſome of ours, and taught them how to uſe them, congratulating our-
ſelves at having ſupplied them with the means of diminiſhing one of the
moſt fatiguing employments of the women.
Theſe ſavages were much ſurpriſed at ſeeing us kindle the ſpongy
bark of the eucalyptus reſinifera in the focus of a burning glaſs. He who
appeared the moſt intelligent among them, deſirous of trying the effects of
the lens himſelf, threw the converging rays of the fun upon his thigh by
its means; but the pain he felt, took from him all inclination of repeat-
ing the experiment.
We let one of the natives ſee our ſhips through a good perſpective-
glaſs, and he ſoon yielded to our ſolicitations, to go on board the Re-
cherche in one of our boats. He went up the fide with an air of confi-
dence, and examined the inſide of the ſhip with much attention. His
looks were then directed chiefly to ſuch objcóts as might ſerve for food.
Led by the ſimilitude in ſhape, between the black ſwans of Cape Diemen
and the geeſe of Guinea, which he ſaw on board, he aſked for one, giving
R r ll S
3 14 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
us to underſtand that it was to eat. When he came oppoſite to our hen-
coops, he appeared ſtruck with the beauty of a very large cock, which
was preſented to him ; and on receiving it he let us know, that he would
loſe no time in broiling and eating it. After having remained on board
more than half an hour, and been loaded with preſents, he deſired to re-
turn, and was immediately carried aſhore. We had taken an ape on
ſhore with us, which afforded much amuſement to the ſavages; and one
of the crew took a goat with him, which formed a ſubjećt of conver-
ſation for them a long time, and to which they occaſionally ſpoke,
ſaying, medi, (ſit down).
They have given particular names to every vegetable. We aſſured
ourſelves, that their botanical knowledge was unequivocal, by aſking fe-
veral of them, at different times, the names of the ſame plants.
In this interview we had an opportunity of adding conſiderably to the
vocabulary of their language, which we had before begun to collect, and
which will be found at the end of this work. On comparing it with
the vocabulary, which ſeveral voyagers have given us, of the language of
the people on the eaſtern coaſt of New Holland, it will be ſeen, that it
has no affinity with them; which proves, that all theſe people have not
one common origin.
The ſavage, who had been on board our veſſel, was not long before he
quitted us, expreſſing much gratitude, and pointing to the cock, which he
took upon one of his ſhoulders.
The reſt, before they went away, gave us to underſtand, that the next
day their families would be at the place where we were; but they ap-
peared to apprehend our meaning, when we acquainted them that we
ſhould ſail the ſame day, and ſeemed to be much grieved at it.
Our obſervatory, erected to the ſouth ſouth-eaſt of the place where we
lay at anchor, and a little more than half a mile diſtant from it, was in la-
titude 43° 34' 37" ſouth, and longitude 144° 37' eaſt.
A great number of obſervations made on board gave us for the varia-
tion of the necdle 7° 34' eaſt, while at the obſervatory we found only 2
55' eaſt variation. A difference ſo great muſt unqueſtionably have ariſen
from
b’13. BRUARY ..] (DF LA PEROUSE. 3 } 5
from ſome magnetic point; beſides, we had already found indications of
ferruginous ſubſtances at a very little diſtance from the place. It is re-
markable that, at the obſervatory of the Eſperance, which was about ſix
hundred yards only from that of the Recherche, the variation of the
needle was 8° eaſt. We ſatisfied ourſelves that this difference was not
owing to the compaſſes uſed, for we found it the ſame when we made
an exchangc between them, by removing them from one obſervatory to
the other.
... The dip of the needle was 72° at the obſervatory of the Recherche,
and 71° at that of the Eſperance.
During our ſtay in Rocky Bay, the winds varied from north-weſt to
ſouth-weſt, and frequently in heavy ſqualls. The ſky was ſeldom clear,
but we had little rain.
The tides were perceptible only once in twenty-four hours. As the
wind influenced them much, we could not determine with preciſion the
time of high-water at the full and change of the moon. Their greateſt
perpendicular riſe was only five feet, or a little more.
During this ſtay, our ſailors loſt much of their ardour for fiſhing; for
this laborious occupation, in which they were employed chiefly by night,
did not exempt them from the duties of the ſhip in the day; ſo that, af-
ter having fitten up to fiſh, they were obliged to work all day, as well as
thoſe who had enjoyed their regular ſleep in the night. Care ſhould have
been taken, however, not to damp the zeal of our fiſhers, for it was an
objećt of general importance to all, to procure an annple ſupply of freth
proviſion; beſides, it was unjuſt not to allow at leaſt a few hours reſt in
the day to men, who had been ſpending the night in procuring agreeable
and ſalubrious food for all the reſt of the crew.
We ſet aſhore here a ſhe-goat and a young he-goat, in hopes of natu-
ralizing theſe animals in New Holland, as they could not fail to thrive on
the mountains at this extremity of the country, and prove at ſome future
period a great reſource to navigators: it is only to be feared, that the
favages may deſtroy them, before they have had time to propagate their
breed. , a ' ' , .
R r 2 CHAP.
316 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
C H A P. XI.
Departure from Rocky Bay to paſs through Dentrecaſeaux Strait—The
Ships run aground in this Strait—Parious Excurſions into the neighbour-
ing Country—Interview with the Natives—They had left their Weapons
in the Woods, and reſumed them on their Return—We anchor in Adventure
Bay. \
15th FEBRUARY. *
T day-break we ſet fail from Rocky Bay with a ſouth-weſt wind,
and ſteered eaſt-north-eaſt till we reached its mouth, intending
to caſt anchor in Dentrecaſteaux Strait.
Some of the natives gave us notice of their preſence by ſeveral fires,
which they had lighted on the eaſtern coaſt.
We had already croſſed the great road, which is at the beginning of
the Strait, and were running along very cloſe to the larboard ſhore, when
about half after one, P. M. we ſtruck on a ſmall ſhoal, conſiſting of ſand
mixed with mud. The ebb had juſt begun to ſet the current againſt us;
and the tide falling lower and lower, we were obliged to wait till half aſter
fix for high water, to ſet us afloat again. The Eſperance had gotten ſtill
deeper in the ſand than we, for file was not able to get off till near eight
o'clock.
Our boat, which had been ſent off five days before, returned, after
having diſcovered ſeveral very deep creeks, that formed excellent an-
choring places, but without finding any river. It is remarkable, that all
we had ſeen at Cape Diemen were ſmall, which indicates a very broken
country. *
The boat was laden with black ſwans, ſhot by our people, whom they
ſuffered to come very near them. It was not eaſy to get thoſe that had
been merely wounded ; for, as they could ſtill ſwim with great ſpeed, it
was neceſſary to row hard, to catch them even then.
10th.
*NS
- /… 2-2. 4%. *** -
**** *****-

FEBRUARY.] OF LA PEROUSE. - 3 7
16th. During the whole night we ſaw ſeveral fires, which the natives
had kindled on the borders of the ſea toward the ſouth-ſouth-eaſt, near
two miles from the place where we had anchored.
We hoped that a fair wind would have allowed us to ſet ſail again in
the morning; but the wind proving contrary, the General determined
that he would remain at anchor till the next day. Accordingly we went
aſhore toward the ſouth-eaſt, on ſome low ground, whence it was eaſy
to reach Adventure Bay in a ſhort time.
Among the different ſhrubs that conſtitute the ornaments of theſe
places, I ſhall mention one, which I refer to the genus, that I have al-
ready deſcribed under the name of mazettoxeron. It agrees with this ge-
nus in all its charaćters; only the petals, which are diſtinét at the baſe,
adhere together at the middle of their edges, but they may be ſeparated
without breaking them. The ſtyle is ſimple and acute.
To this new ſpecies I give the name of mazettoxeron reflexum, on ac-
count of its leaves, which are inclined toward the ground. They are
hairy and whitiſh beneath.
The flowers are greeniſh, ſolitary, and iſſue out between two ſmall
oval leaves: toward the middle of the peduncle they have two filiform
appendices a little larger than the calyx.
Explanation of the Figures, Plate XIX.
Fig. 1. A branch.
Fig. 2. The flower.
Fig. 3. The corolla.
Fig. 4. The corolla diſplayed, to ſhow how the petals adhere together
laterally.
Fig. 5. The calyx, with the ſtamens and germen, the corolla having
been removed. *
Fig. 6. The capſule, beneath which the calyx is ſeen.
Fig. 7. One of the valves of the capſule.
Citizen Beaupré, engineer geographer, ſet off in the evening, in the
General's barge, for the great creek, which we had perceived the preceding
year
3 3 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
year to the north, in ſailing out of Dentrecaſteaux Strait. The principal
object was, to aſcertain whether it had any opening that communicated
with the main ſea, and whether the iſland of Maria was really ſeparated
from the land of New Holland; for this had not been ſufficiently reſolved
by Marion, or even by Captain Cook.
The wind continuing to the north all the 17th, prevented our weighing
anchor, and we went aſhore, while our fiſhers proceeded toward the
mouth of the ſtrait. The flood brought in with it a conſiderable quan-
tity of fiſh, and they caught ſeveral ſpecies of ray of a large ſize. Some
were found to weigh upwards of two hundred and ſixty pounds.
We got under way the next morning; but the wind was too faint,
to enable us to ſtem the current, which ſet againſt us, ſo that we quickly
let go our anchor again,
Toward noon ſome of the natives appeared on the eaſtern ſhore, about
half a mile from our ſhip. Some others ſoon joined them ; and we could
count as many as ten, when they kindled a fire, and ſeated themſelves
round it. From time to time they anſwered with ſhouts of joy the ſhouts
of our ſailors. We haſtened on ſhore in a large party, to have a nearer
view of them ; and when we were but a little way from the beach, they
advanced toward us without arms, their ſmiling countenances leaving us
no room to doubt that our viſit gave them pleaſure. They were as deſti-
tute of clothes as thoſe whom we had ſeen in the neighbourhood of Port
Dentrecaſteaux; but we were much ſurpriſed to ſee moſt of them
holding the extremity of the prepuce with the left hand; no doubt from
a bad habit, for we did not obſerve any thing of the kind among ſome
others, who ſoon after joined them. Their joy was expreſſed by loud
burſts of laughter; at the ſame time they carried their hands to their
heads, and made a quick tapping with their feet on the ground, while
their countenances ſhowed, that they were well pleaſed to ſee us. i
We invited them to fit down, ſpeaking in the language of the other
natives, whom we had already mct with at this extremity of New Hol-
land; and they underſtood us very well, immediately acceding to our in-
vitation. They underſtood likewiſe the other words of the language of
theſe
PEBRUARY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 310
theſe people, which we had collečted from them, and we had no doubt,
that they ſpoke the ſame tongue: yet Anderſon has given to the public
ſome words of the language of the pcople of Adventure Bay, which
have no ſimilitude to thoſe, that we had an opportunity of acquiring
and verifying.
Theſe ſavages expreſſed much thankfulneſs, when we gave them a few
ſmall pieces of ſtuffs of different colours, glaſs beads, a hatchet, and ſome
other articles of hardware.
Several other ſavages came out of the wood, and approached us.
There was no woman among them, but there were ſome young men.
Among theſe was one of the middle ſize, whoſe figure, which we all ad-
mired, was very finely proportioned, even in the judgment of our painter.
From his dreſs we preſumed this ſavage to be a New Holland beau : he
was tatooed with great ſymmetry, and his hair, plaſtered with greaſe,
was well powdered with ochre.
One of the natives gave us to underſtand, that he had ſecn veſſels in
Adventure Bay before: probably he ſpoke of Bligh, who had anchored
there in the beginning of 1792, as we learned ſome days after from ſeveral
inſcriptions, which we found carved on the trunks of trees.
An officer belonging to our ſhip imagined, that he ſhould not frighten
them, by letting them ſee the cffects of our fire-arms: but as moſt of
them were not previouſly informed of his deſign, they were alarmed at
the report of the gun, immediately roſe, and would not ſit down again.
Suppoſing their wives and children were retired to a little diſtance in the
wood, we expreſſed to them our wiſhes to ſee them join us; and the ſa-
vages informed us that we ſhould find them, after walking ſome time
acroſs the wood in a path, which led toward the ſouth-ſouth-weſt, and
which they immediately took, inviting us to follow them. This we did :
but it was not long before they expreſſed their deſire to ſee us return to-
ward our ſhips, and parted from us, frequently looking back to watch our
II].OtíOnS. -
On my pronouncing the word quangloa, however, which ſignifics, in
their language, will you come, they ſtopped, and I went up to them with
Oſ) &
3 QO VOYAG iſ, 1 N Si. A l; C1 i | 1793.
one of the officers of the Recherche. They continued to lead us along
the ſame path, which appeared much frequented, and we walked ſlowly,
that our people might have time to join us. In this way we walked on
for a quarter of an hour, holding them by the arm, when on a ſudden they
quickened their pace, ſo that it was not eaſy for us to follow them farther,
It appeared to us, that they wiſhed we ſhould leave them, for ſome of
them would not allow us to hold them by the arm any longer, and
walked by themſelves, at ſome diſtance from us. One of our crew, de-
ſirous of rejoining one of the fugitives, ran after him, bawling out with
all his might; and this alarmed all the reſt, who immediately haſtened
away, and kept at a conſiderable diſtance from us. No doubt they were
deſirous to reach the place where they had depoſited their weapons unac-
companied ; for, after having again quickened their pace, they ſtruck out
of the path a little, and preſently we ſaw them with three or four ſpears
cach, which they carried away, moſt of them proceeding toward Adven-
ture Bay, while others took their courſe to the weſt. They then invited
us to follow them ; but we were not willing to go any farther, for we
had no deſire to imitate them in their courſe, and beſides it was time for
us to return on board.
Theſe natives appeared to us to have the greateſt reſemblance to thoſe
whom we had ſeen a few days before ; only we obſerved ſome, in whom
one of the middle teeth of the upper jaw was wanting, and others in
whom both were gone. We could not learn the objeći of this cuſtom ;
but it is not general, for the greater part of the people had all their teeth.
They appeared to be equally ignorant with the others of the uſe of the
bow.
Almoſt all of them were tatooed with raiſed points, ſometimes placed
in two lines, one over the other, much in the ſhape of a horſe-ſhoe; though
frequently theſe points were in three ſtraight and parallel lines on each
ſide of the breaſt: ſome were obſerved, too, toward the bottom of the
fhoulder blades, and in other places.
In many the navel appeared puffed up, and very prominent, but we
aſſured ourſelves, that this deformity was not occaſioned by a hernia.
Perhaps
FEBRUARY.] - . OF LA PEROUSE. 3 2 1
Perhaps it is owing to the too great diſtance from the abdomen, at which
the umbilical cord is ſeparated.
They acquainted us that they lived upon fiſh, as well as the other in-
habitants of Cape Diemen : yet I muſt obſerve, that we did not ſee a
ſingle perſon who had the caſt trace of any diſeaſe of the ſkin; which
by no means agrecs with the opiniºn of thoſe, who radintain, that ichth-
! ophagi are ſubject to a ſpecies of leproſy. Hiſtorials even affºrt, that ſuch
of the Greeks as would not adopt in iſ gypt the regimen preſcribed by
Orpheus, were attacked by the cic planti-ſ:
ſ•
Soon after ſun-ſet we arrived on bºard; when, the wind having bº
come fair, we weighed, and procceded two leagues farther, where we
dropped anchor again.
19th. The next morning we got up our anchor pretty carly, but were
obliged to let it go again almoſt immediately, as the wind became foul.
I then landed on the caſtern ſhore, whence I penetrated into the woods,
taking paths much frequented by the ſavages. It was not long before I
perceived a new ſpecies of exocarpos, which I call exocarpos expanſi, be-
cauſe its branches ſpread much wider from each other than thoſe of the
exocarpos cuprºſºformis. Its fruit is larger than that of the latter ſpecies.
Two guns from the Recherche informed us, that ſhe was preparing to
get up her anchor, and immediately we repaired on board. By five
o'clock we were under ſail, but the breeze was ſo faint, that we had made
little way when night came. From the place where we came to an
anchor we reckoned now we had not above a couple of leagues to the ex-
tremity of the ſtrait: but we were ſo delayed by the winds and currents,
that it was four days longer, before we could clear it.
In this interval the barge, which the General had diſpatched for the
purpoſe of making geographical reſearches, returned after five days ab-
ſence. Citizen Beaupré had diſcovered ſeveral bays before unknown:
the fartheſt to the north extended to 42°42' of S. lat., and the caſtern-
moſt rcached to the longitude of Cape Pillar. He had ſeen the channel,
which ſeparates the Iſland of Maria from the main land.
S s It
322. VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
It was with aſtoniſhment we ſaw the prodigious number of ſheltered
ſituations, which, from Cape South to the meridian of Cape Pillar, offer
a continued chain of excellent anchoring places, in a ſpace including
about fixteen leagues from eaſt to weſt, and about twenty from north to
ſouth.
Freſh water appears to be very ſcarce in theſe bays at this ſeaſon: yet
near the head of that, which ſtretches fartheft to the north, there is a
river, where, about fifty paces diſtant from its mouth, there is perfeótly
freſh water of the depth of ſix feet, even within an hour after flood-tide;
for its current is ſufficiently rapid to repel the water of the ſea, and pre-
vent its mingling with the ſtream.
On the 24th, about half after eleven in the morning, we anchored in
Adventure Bay, in cleven fathoms water, on a bottom of mud mixed
with a ſmall portion of ſand.
The neareſt ſhore bore from us ſouth-eaſt, diſtant five furlongs, and
Penguin Iſland north 51° eaſt.
Immediately a boat was diſpatched, to ſee whether it were eaſy to fur-
niſh ourſelves with water toward the north-weſt, at the place pointed out
by Captain Cook, in the plan which he has given of this bay. The eaſt-
ſouth-eaſt winds, however, occaſioned a very troubleſome ſurf there, which
induced us to prefer a place to the ſouth-eaſt; but we found that the wa-
ter procured thcre was a little brackiſh ; which proved, that it was taken
from a place too low, and too near the ſea.
This bay being open to the eaſt and ſouth-eaſt winds, they ſometime:
occaſion a heavy ſwell on the weſtern ſhore, which, tending thither
from all ſidcs, render it ſomewhat difficult to land.
During the time we remained at anchor, I made excurſions into the
adjacent country every day; but I found little to add to the numerous
articles I had colle&ted at Cape Diemen.
Penguin Iſland, which I viſited, is nothing but a hill, ſcarcely ſeparated
from the great iſland, for at low watcrI croſſed the channel between
them almoſt dry-ſhod. It conſiſts of a dark gray ſandſtone, the ſame as
forms
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FEBRUARY..] OF LA PEROUSE, 323
forms great part of the borders of Adventure Bay. To the ſouth it is over-
topped by Fluted Cape, which is formed of a reddiſh ſandſtone, diſpoſed
in parallel ſtrata perpendicular to the horizon. The difference of tint in
theſe ſtrata exhibit at a diſtance the appearance of deep flutings, which
has given occaſion to its name. It mutt be from an error of the preſs,
that it is ſaid Anderſon found this cape to conſiſt of a white ſandſtone.
On Penguin Iſland I found a new ſpecies of ſlate, remarkable for its
largc laminae of a light fawn colour; an citcalyptus of a moderate height,
which may readily be diſtinguiſhed by its oppoſite, ſcfile leaves, of a
whitiſh green colour, with a ſlight tint of bluc (g/augues); an embo-
thrium, with leaves very deeply indented; ſeveral fine ſpecies of philadeſ-
phus, the flowers of which have no ſmell, &c.
We found a raft, which the waves had thrown upon the weſtern ſhore
of Adventure Bay. Perhaps it had ſerved to bring ſome ſavages into this
bay from the iſland of Maria. It was made of the bark of trees; in ſhape
nearly reſembling that which is repreſented in Plate XLVI. fig. 2, being
as broad, but not ſo long by more than a third. The pieces of bark, that
compoſed it, were of the ſame ſtrućture as that of the eucalyptus rºſiuſ-
fera, but its leaves were much thinner. Theſe pieces had been held to-
gether by cords, made of the leaves of graſſes, forming a texture of very
large meſhes, moſt of which had the form of a pretty regular pentagon.
Juſt by we ſaw ſome limeſtone rocks, bounding an extenſive ſandy
ſhore. On its borders we found the remains of a place which had been
made by Europeans for ſawing wood, the pegs they had uſed for creeting a
tent, and ſome large logs, on which, it appeared to us, they had placed in-
ſtruments for making aſtronomical obſervations.
The ſteep hills, which ſkirt the ſandy ſhore a little farther to the north,
had in them caves, which appeared pretty much frequented by the na-
tives, to judge by the black colour they had received from ſmoke, and the
#hells of lobſters and other fiſh which we found there.
Several inſcriptions, engraved on the trunks of trees, acquainted us,
that Captain Bligh had anchored in this bay in the month of February
S S (2 l ()' ;
: , 24 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
1702 ; when he was on his voyage to the Society Iſlands for bread-fruit
trees, which he was to carry to the Engliſh colonies in the Weſt Indies
lying between the tropics.
Eligh had with him two botaniſts, who ſowed, at a little diſtance from
the ſhore, creſſes, a few acorns, celery, &c. We ſaw three young fig
trees, two pomegranate trees, and a quince tree they had planted, which
had thriven very well: but it appeared to us, that one of the trees they
had planted in this country had already periſhed, for the following in-
ſcription, which we found on the trunk of a large tree near, mentions.
ſevcn :
Near this Trce Captain ſº illiam Bligh planted ſeven Fruit Trces, 1792.
Miſrs. S. and IP. Botaniſłs.
The other inſcriptions were couched in nearly ſimilar terms. They all
diſplayed the ſame marks of deference which the Engliſh botaniſts paid
the Commander of their ſhip, by putting only the initial letters of their
own names, and expreſſing that the Captain himſelf had ſowed and
planted the various vegetable produćtions, which he had carried from Eu-
rope. I am much inclined to doubt, whether Bligh was very ſenſible to
the honour which thc botaniſts were deſirous of paying him.
Toward the ſouth-eaſt, at a little diſtance from the beach, we found
an apple tree, the ſtem of which was near ſix fect and a half high, and
about two inches thick. It did not appear to us that it had cycr been
grafted.
Our fiſhers were not unſucceſsful at this anchoring place. The fires
they kindled along the ſhore in the night attracted a large quantity of
fiſh to their nets. The ſtratagem had before ſucceeded ſo completely
with the fiſhers of the Eſperance in Dentrecaſteaux Strait, that they had
laid in a ſtock of fiſh ſufficient for ſome months, part dried, and part
pickled in ſtrong brine.
Several times in the courſe of the day I was preſent when they hauled
the ſeine, and always obſcrved ſome new ſpecics of diodon (porcupine
fiſh),
FEBRUARY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 32.5
fiſh). I admired the readineſs with which theſe little fiſhes erected the
prickles that cover them, by diſtending their bodies as ſoon as they were
touched : but they lowered them, and kept them cloſe to their ſkin,
throughout thcir whole length, as ſoon as they inhagined themſelves out
of danger. This obſervation ſhows, that the attitude given to fiſh of this
genus, by diſtending them as much as poſſible, in which manner they arc
exhibited in collections of natural hiſtory, is not that which is moſt uſual
to thcm.
Near the north ſhore of this bay we landed a young he-goat, and a ſhe-
goat big with kid, putting up our prayers that the ſavages might allow
them to propagate their breed in this iſland. Perhaps they may multiply
in it to ſuch a degree, as to occaſion a total change in the manner of life
of the inhabitants, who may then become a paſtoral people, quit without
regret the borders of the ſca, and taſte the pleaſure of not being obliged
to dive in ſearch of their food, at the riſk of being devoured by ſharks.
The women, who are condemned to this toilſome occupation, will be
much more ſenſible of the value of ſuch a preſent than the men : but it
is to be feared that theſe animals will be killed before thcy have time to
breed, as appears to have happened to the ſow and boar left by Captain
Cook; at leaſt no one of us ever perceived the ſlightcft trace of theſe
animals.
The latitude of our obſervatory, which was near a mile and a quarter
ſouth from our anchoring place, was 43° 21' 18" ſouth, and its longitude
145° 12' 17" eaſt.
The variation of the needle, obſerved at the ſame place, was 7° 30′ eaſt.
CHAP,
326 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1703.
C H A P. XII.
Depariure from Adventure Bay—ſſe paſs cloſe by the North End of New
Zealand–Interview with the Inhabitants—piſovery of ſeveral Iſlands
hitherto unknown—Anchor at Tongataboo, one of the Friendly Iſlands—
Eagerneſs of the Natives to come on board and furniſh us with freſh Proviſion
—He ſalt a great Number of Hogs—The Iſlanders greatly addićied to Theft
—One of our Sentinels knocked down in the Night by a Native, who ſole his
Muſket—The Aſſiſſin delivered to General Dentrecaſeaux by King Toobou,
who reſtores the Muſket that had been ſolent—Queen Tiné comes on board—
Toohou gives a Feaſt to the General—Queen Tiné alſo does the ſame—The
Smith of the Recherche is knocked down with Clubs by the Natives, who
afterwards ſirip him, in open Day, in Sight of our Pºſſels—Some young
JBread-Fruit Trees are taken on board to enrich our Colonies with this
valuable Production.
1ſt MARC II.
E ſet ſail from Adventure Bay about eight in the morning, with
W hard faualls from the ſouth-weſt, which ſoon carried us beyond
Cape Pillar, behind which we ſaw ſeveral fires kindled by the ſavages.
We then ſteered toward the north, where we were in ſight of the coaſt
about ſixteel; leagues diſtant, leaving Oyſter Bay to the weſt, and then
we directed our courſe for the Friendly Iſlands.
At day-break, on the 13th, we made the iſlands called the Three
Kings,
About eight o'clock, being in longitude 160° 56' eaſt, we ſet the middle
iſland of the group north, diſtant onc leaguc, and aſcertained its latitude
to be 34" 20% ſouth.
We ſaw three principal rocks, of a moderate height, nearly in the ſame
parallel; at no great diſtance from each other, and ſurrounded by other
rocks that were much ſmaller. Notwithſtanding the fog that had juſt
COUI) tº
MARCH.] OF LA PEROUSE. 327
come on, we diſtinguiſhed ſome more toward the north, making a part of
the ſame cluſter. They were very bare, and we did not ſuppoſe them to
be inhabited: but a large column of ſmoke, ariſing from the eaſternmoſt
iſlet, informed us that there were ſavages on it. No doubt they choſe
this place of reſidence, becauſe it afforded them an opportunity of pro-
curing fiſh with eaſe among the ſhoals.
About three quarters after ten we made the land of New-Zealand,
which we approached by ſteering eaſterly, under favour of a light breeze
from the weſt-north-weſt.
The natives had kindled a large fire on the loftieſt of the hills that ſkirt
the ſea, and which extend to Cape North. At half after five we were a
very little way from the Cape, when two canocs came off from the ſhore,
and paddled toward us. They ſoon came up with us, but remained
ſome time aftern of the ſhip before they ventured alongſide. Judging
rightly of our diſpoſition toward them, however, they approached with
confidence ; aware, no doubt, that the Europcans, who had viſited them,
had never becn the aggreſſors when any diſpute aroſe. They immediately
ſhowed us bundles of the New-Zealand flax (ſºlormiſm ten, y), ſhaking
them, in order that we might obſerve all their beauty, and offering to
barter with us. The ſtuffs of different colours we gave them were
received with marks of great ſatisfaction, and they always delivered
to us, with the moſt ſcrupulous exactneſs, the price on which we had
S
•ºe
agreed.
Iron they decidedly preferred to every thing elſe that we offered them.
This metal is ſo valuable in the eyes of theſe warlike people, thqt expreſ-
ſions of the moſt lively joy burſt from them when they found we had
fome. Though at firſt we ſhowed it them only at a diſtance, they knew
it perfeótly well, from the found two pieces gave when ſtruck againſt
each other.
In exchange for our articles, theſe people gave us almoſt every thing
they had in their canoes; and, which we conſidered as a mark of the
greateſt confidence, thcy made not the leaſt difficulty at diſpoſing of all
their weapons to us.
The
\
3.28 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
The largeſt of the ſpears they gave us were not above five yards long,
and an inch and half thick : the ſmalleſt were only half that length.
They were all made of a ſingle piece of very hard wood, which they had
rendered perfectly ſmooth.
They gave us fiſhing lines, and hooks of different ſhapes; to the end of
ſome of which feathers were faſtened, which they uſe as a bait for vora-
cious fiſhes. Several of theſe lines were of great length, and had at the
end a piece of hard ſerpentine, to make them ſink very deep in the water.
We admired the fine poliſh they had given this ſtone, which was of a ſphe-
rical form, ſurmounted with a ſmall protuberance, in which they had made
a hole, to paſs a ſtring through. It muſt be very difficult to theſe ſavages
to bore a ſtone of ſuch hardneſs, and no doubt requires a great deal of
time; but they have much leiſure for ſuch employments, for their wants
are few, and the ſea ſupplies them with food in abundance. They ſold us
a great deal of fiſh, which they had juſt caught ; and there is ſuch a quan-
tity along the coaſt, that, during the ſhort time we lay to, we ſaw ſeveral
numerous ſhoals, which, riſing to the ſurface of the ſea, agitated it for a
conſiderable ſpace at different times, producing nearly the ſame appear-
ance as a current paſſing over a ſhallow in calm weather.
Theſe ſavages even ſtripped themſelves of their clothes in order to bar-
ter with us. -
Some of the young men had drops at their cars, made with a ſerpen-
tine of great hardneſs. They were cut of an oval figure, and for the moſt
part near four inches long. -
The men of riper years wore, as a kind of trophy, a little piece of the
large bone of the fore-arm of a man, which hung at the breaſt by a little
ftring that paſſed round the neck. (See Plate XXV.) They ſet a great
value on this ornament. -
It is well known that theſe people are greedy devourers of human fleſh;
and every thing that recals to their minds the idea of ſuch food, ſeems to
give them the greateſt pleaſure. A ſailor on board offered one of them a
knife; and, to ſhew him the uſe of it, imitated the action of cutting off
one of his fingers, which he immediately carricq to his mouth, and pre-
tended
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MARCH.) OF LA PEROUSE. 329
tended to eat. The cannibal, who watched all his motions, expreſſed
great joy, laughing heartily for ſome time, and rubbing his hands. They
were all very tall, and of a muſcular make. Soon after ſun-ſet they
left us.
At the ſame moment a third canoe arrived from the neareſt ſhore,
with twelve of the iſlanders in it, who immediately demanded hatchets
in exchange for their goods. One of them had already obtained a hatchet,
when another addreſſed himſelf to us in a rough voice, bawling out with
all his ſtrength etoki (a hatchet), and was not ſilent till he had obtaincó
OIAC.
It was now night, and the Eſpérance was ſo far diſtant as to be out of
fight; accordingly we let off a few ſmall quantities of powder, to induce
her to make known to us her ſituation: but we obſerved with ſurpriſe,
that the natives, far from diſplaying any dread of the effects of gun-
powder, continued their barter nevertheleſs. It had been dark for more
than an hour, when they paddled away to the ſhore.
As we lay to, we hove the lead ſeveral times, and always found a bot-
tom of fine ſand, and from thirty-ſix to fifty fathoms water.
24th. The faint breeze that ſet off from the land during the night, was
ſucceeded toward day-break by a north-weſt wind. We were ſtill very
near the coaſt, and we might eaſily have come to an anchor in Lauriſton
Bay, but the fatal diſaſters that befell Captain Marion, and afterwards
Furneaux, made the General reſolve to paſs on.
I thought it my duty, however, to repreſent to him, how important
an objećt it was, to procure from New Zealand the liliaceous plant known
by the name of phormium tenax, or New Zealand flax, in order to con-
vey it to Europe, where it would thrive in perfection. The fibres ob-
tained from the leaves of this plant are much ſuperior in ſtrength to any
other vegetable produétion employed for making ropes, and cables made
of it would bear the greateſt ſtrain. No one could be more ſenſible of
all the benefits our navy might derive from this plant, than the Com-
mander in Chief of our expedition; yet we held on our courſe for the
Friendly Iſlands, continuing to ſteer north-eaſt.
T t There
33O VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
There would have becn this advantage, likewiſe, in ſtopping at the
northern Cºtternity of New Zealand, that it would have afforded us an
opportunity of verifying out obſervations, which led us to place Cape
I worth 30 mºre to the caſ, ward than it is laid down by Wales. It
will be granted, how cycr, that we have ſufficient reaſon to give our
obſcº atto.Is the prefer 11ce, when it is conſidered, that the Engliſh aſtro-
nonner determined the ſituation of this point only from the longitude ob-
ſerved in Ship Cove, and the diſtance run along the coaſt by Captain
Cook : and it muſt be remembered, that this celebrated navigator had
no time-keepcr on board during his firſt voyage, an inſtrument indiſ-
penſably neceſſary to aſcertain with preciſion the diſtance run upon a
coaſt, where the currents are very rapid and irregular. *
17th. About four in the afternoon, the man at the maſt-head called out,
...that he had ſight of a large rock to the north-north-eaſt ; and we were
ſoon ſurrounded by a great number of ſca-fowl, annong which we no-
ticed many boobics and gulls. It was night when we paſſed about ſix
hundred yards to leeward of this ſhoal, from which we heard the ſcreams
of ſeveral of theſe birds; and by the favour of a fine moon-light night, we
: diſtinguiſhed on the moſt prominent points a whiteneſs, which we aſ-
cribed to thcir excrement.
This rock, which is in latitude 31° 33' 20" ſouth, longitude 170° eaſt,
is not much above half a mile in circumference, and ſevcnty or cighty
yards high. Toward its weſt end ſomc reefs were obſerved.
As we paſſed to leeward of this ſhoal, we were in completcly ſmooth
water, ſo that if there had becn any funken rock in our courſe, we ſhould
not have been informed of our danger till the veſſel ſtruck upon it. If
we had doubled the rock to windward, or cyen to lecward at a proper
diſtance, we ſhould not have run this riſk.
18th. Next morning at day-break we made Curtis's Iſlands. Theſe
are two very ſmall iſles, near four leagucs diſtant ſrom cach other. The
ſouthernmoſt is about a mile long only from north to ſouth, ſteep, very
bare, and interſperſed with a great number of rocks, the ſummits of thc
higheſt of which reach about a hundred yards above the level of the ſea.
Their
MARCH.) OF LA PEROUSE. C. § 1
Their whitiſh colour led me to preſume, that they were of a calcareous
nature, like moſt of the iſlands found in theſe ſeas.
The other iſland is tolerably rounded, covercü with verdure, and as
high as the former. Its ſides are ſteep almoſt every where, yet you no. y
land upon it toward the weſt. It is in the latitude of 30° 18' 20" ſouth,
longitude 170° 38' caſt.
About ſix in the evening we perceived at a great diſtance to the north-
north-weſt, a new iſland, which induced us to lay to all night.
19th. The next morning, when day broke, we had fight of the ſame
iſland toward the north, and ſtill upwards of ten leagucs diſtance ; but
about five in the afternoon we were cloſe in with it, and had already ſeen
the whole of its circumference, the extent of which might be about three
leagues.
To this iſland, the latitude of which is 20° 20' 18" ſouth, longitude
179° 55' caſt, we gave the name of Recherchc. Its figure is nearly
triangular. Toward the middle the land riſes to the height of about five
hundred yards above the level of the ſea. On the eaſt the earth had
crumbled down in a few places of no great extent, where a boat might
land.
In all the perpendicular cliffs we could clearly diſtinguiſh thc arrange-
ment of the thin, parallel, and horizontal ſtrata of a whitiſh, and no
doubt calcareous ſtone, of which the iſland is formed. In the interiºr
part of the iſland we ſaw conſiderable precipices, and there were trees tº
the very ſummit of the higheſt places.
There is a ſhoal almoſt cloſe to the ſhore on the tº th–weſ
tends at leaſt ſix hundred yards in that direction.
. . . . . . . -, -- ~
, V", ; } | . . . . .Y-
|.
tº .* -. • * , - ---, -- - - - - l- > - ſº----, -,-, ~ * * *-
Eight rocks, a few hundred yards diſtant frºm each other, fºctº ºt
into the ſea for the ſpace of a league to the caſt-ſouth-east.
Between the weſt and north-weſt points, we obſerved a fox' bººt,
where probably very good ground wºuld be found, and v. bicº; a`i
complete ſhelter from the caſtely winds.
T $ r =
Between the north-weſt and ſºuth-eaſt points we ſº a | º's ſº J'ºt.
3. * * * * * 4 , , ge 4 *s . * - - ! - . f w ~\ , ~ ** : - , , , 5 -
which runs into the ſea ; and at a little distance ºn it, in a periºn*
i
9 * * T : . . ] {^
33
Q.
*
Đnos.
VOYAGE IN SEARCH cular cliff, we obſerved a large patch of earth, of a tolerably deep red co-
lour, perhaps a ſort of clay, which appeared incruſted by the calcareous
ſtone. y • .
On the 23d, about nine in the evening, we catered the Torrid
Zone, in the longitude of 184° eaſt. This was the fourth time of OUkr
paſſing the Tropic of Capricorn.
24th. The next day, at one o'clock in the afternoon, we made Eooa,
one of the Friendly Iſlands, bearing from us north-weſt, diſtant about
fourteen leagues; and it was not long before we had a pretty near view
of it. The beautiful verdure with which it was every where covered,
proclaimed the fertility of the ſoil. The land is of a moderate height.
It was half after ſix when we brought to, to wait for the Eſperance,
and we ſpent the night in plying to windward.
On the 25th, at ſeven o'clock in the morning, we were about fix
leagues only from Tongataboo, and yet we could not eaſily diſtinguiſh
it, becauſe the land is ſo low. We ſoon got pretty near in with the
caſtern coaſt, ſtanding toward the north and north-weſt, that we might
tiot miſs the opening that leads to the harbour, which is to be entered
only by paſſing between ſome reefs, which are ſo cloſe together that the
break between them is not to be diſtinguiſhed at a little diſtance.
As ſoon as we were about the middle of this channel, ſeveral canoes
with out-riggers came to meet us, laden with fruit, hogs, and poul-
try, which they offered us. Each had two or three natives on board,
ſeldom four. One of them coming toward us with too much ſpeed, her
out-rigger gave way, and we had the ſorrow to ſee the three rowers fall
into the water. They ſeemed leſs diſconcerted, however, than we ſhould
have imagined, and ſwam to the neareſt ſhore, dragging with them their
canoe, which was ſoon ſet afloat again. Theſe canoes are ſo ſlight that
they muſt frequently be expoſed to ſuch accidents; and, indeed, their
countrymen, who paſſed cloſe by, ſeemed ſcarcely to notice it.
All theſe canoes had catables on board, one excepted, in which we ob-
ſerved none, and which, therefore, we imagined, had nothing to offer us.
But we were miſtaken: it was navigated by two men, whoſe counte-
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MARCH.] OF LA PEROUSE. 333
nances expreſſed mudh gaiety, while they pointed out to us two women,
who were paddling with them; and the figns they made left us no room
to doubt, that they were making us yory gallant propoſals.
At a diſtance we ſaw forme large failing canoes.
About half after cleven, being in the narroweſt part of the channci,
where it did not appear to us to be above four hundred yards over, we
had bottom near the middle at ſix fathoms.
Juſt as we were on the point of entering into it, a large canoe came to
meet us, and the people in her invited us to follow them in a much wider
channel, which was on the larboard of it; but when they ſaw us take
another courſe, they returned, and continued ſome time a-hcad of us,
willing to inftrućt us how to ſteep.
At length we reached the road of Tongataboo, and after making ſeveral
tacks to fetch the anchorage, brought up a mile to the ſouth-weſt of
Pangaſimotoo, in eleven fathoms and a half of water, on a bottom of very
fine grey ſand.
One of the weſtern points of Tongataboo bore weſt 3° north ; the
weſtern extremity of Pangaïmatoo, north 24° eaſt; and the extremity of
the reefs on that ſide, north 20° weſt.
We were inamediately ſurrounded by the natives, who came on board
in ſuch numbers, that the deck was ſoon covered with them. Several
came in double canoes, of the ſhape repreſented in Plate XXVIII.
One of theſe people, followed by ſeveral others, who appeared to pay him
great reſpect, announced himſelf as one of the chiefs of the iſland. He
deſired to ſee the Commander of the veſſel, and immediately ordered a hog
to be brought, of which he made him a preſent. This perſon expreſſed
much gratitude on receiving a hatchet from the General's own hands.
In leſs than an hour we procured, by way of barter, a dozen hogs, the
ſmalleſt of which was at leaſt a hundred weight. For each a hatchet,
of a middling ſize, was given.
The General had given orders to one of his officers to treat with the
iſlanders for what proviſion they could furniſh ; and to prevent all com-
petition, which might have been injurious to the ſupply of our ſhips, he
had forbidden every other perſon to make any cKchange. But it wasim-
poſſible
33.4 VOYAGE IN SEARCH & [1793.
poſſible to ſee theſe orders executed to the letter; and it was difficult to
reſiſt the eagerneſs of the natives to diſpoſe of their wares, which each CIl-
deavoured to diſplay to the beſt advantage. We were much amuſed to
ſee them holding their little pigs under their arms, and every now and
then pulling them by the ears to make them ſqueal, that we might know
they had them to ſell. - A.
A chicf of the warriors, named Feenou, came on board about five in
the afternoon. He was a man about forty-five years of age, of a mid-
dling ſtature, and very fat. Like the reſt of the natives, he had altoge-
ther the features of an European. His body was covered with ſcars in
various places, and he pointed out to us two on the breaſt, which, he ſaid,
were from wounds received by ſpears in different battles againſt the
people of Feejee. * *
The portrait of this warrior, Plate VIII. Fig. 2, is a very faithful re-
ſemblance. His hair, powdered with lime, was dreſſed in ſuch a way,
that he might be ſuppoſed to have worn a wig. # *
He ſeated himſelf on the bench on the quarter-deck, with four of the
natives, and ordered all the reſt to ſquat down : ſome of them, however,
he permitted to fit on the arm-cheſt. I know not whether theſe were
great perſonages; but we remarked among them a man advanced in
y
y
cars, accompanied by a young girl, who employed all his eloquence to
tº ºpt ſuch of us as came near her. -
Fecnou made a preſent to the General of the largeſt hog that we had
yet ſeen ſince we had been at anchor. He gave him likewiſe two very
ſºme clubs, made of caſuarina wood, inlaid with plates of bone, ſome cut
roºtnol, others in ſtars, and others in the ſhape of birds, of which, how-
C W C tº, they were but poor reſemblances. This chicf appeared well ſatisfied
whº the General gave him a hatchet, a large piece of red ſtuff, and a few
nai's. To teſtify his gratitude, he took each of theſe articles in his left
Iºni, an ºl touched the left ſide of his forehead with it. - *
ºo: arºls ſun-ſet we requeſted him to ſend out of the ſhip all the natives,
the crowd of whom was become immenſe. We were deſirous that not
tº ſhºw in remain, as we did not wiſh to have the trouble of watching
tiºn) during the night : but perhaps his authority did not extend to then
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MARCH.] OF LA PEROUSE. C35
*º-
all; for, after he had driven away the greateſt part only, he left us, and
returned towards the weſtern ſhore of Tongataboo. .
The ſtep he took to rid our ſhip of theſe iſlanders, by whom we were
incommoded to an exceſtive degree, could not eaſily be gueſſed. He
drove them out with his club, which he handled ſo vigorouſly, that they
had no way to eſcape the rude blows of this weapon, but by leaping into
the ſca. .
Almoſt all their clubs are made with the wood of the caſuarina, which
is extremely hard; yet we ſaw a few of bone, ſomewhat more than a yard
long. As theſe iſlanders have no quadrupcd capable of furniſhing a bone
of ſuch length, there can be no doubt but it muſt belong to ſome large
animal of the whale genus.
Beſide many fowls, they ſold us pigeons of the ſpecies called cºmá.
denied (nutmeg pigeon), bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, yams, and ſeveral va-
rieties of plaintain, of a delicious flavour.
We deſired all ti, natives to go aſhore before night, for ſeveral had not
come for the purpoſe of ſatisfying their curioſity mercly, or ſelling us
their goods; as we ſoon diſcovered that they had ſtolen ſeveral articles
from us. All the canoes, however, were gone, and there were ſtill ſix of
the iſlanders left on board; who, having no means of getting on ſhore
but by ſwimming, requeſted us to let them paſs the night upon deck,
one excepted, who choſe rather to ſwim aſhore, though we were a mile
from the neareſt land. We admired the facility with which he executed
Y-
all his movements. He ſwam conſtantly on the belly, his neck being
J *
Sº,
entirely out of water, and making very ſhort ſtrokes with his left hand,
which he kept conſtantly before him, while he gave a great ſpread to his
right hand, which he carried to the thigh on the ſame ſide at C\ery ſtroke.
The body was at the ſame time a little inclined to the left, which in-
creaſed the rapidity, with which it cut the water. I never ſaw an Eu-
ropean ſwim with ſuch confidence, or with ſuch ſpeed “.
* A ſomewhat ſimilar node of ſwimming, I believe, is not unfrequent among expert
ſwimmers in Ingland ; at leaſt l have often ſeen it practiſed by others, and have liad re-
courſe to it myſelf, when engaged in a conteſt of ſpeed-T wº/ºr
-** * - & * 5th,
336 voy AGE IN SEARCH [1793.
26th. Feerion returned the next morning, and ſpent a few hours on
board. He was ſingularly amuſed by an ape belonging to one of our
gunners, to the ſlighteſt ačtions of which he was attentive.
The tents of the obſervatory were pitched on the ſouth-weſt ſhore of
Pangaïmatoo, and to the ſame place were conveyed ſtuffs of different co-
łours, with a great many articles of hardware, to exchange for freſh pro-
viſion. As the inhabitants brought us a great many hogs, the General
reſolved to make an addition to our ſalt ſtores; and Citizen Renard, one
of our ſurgeons, offered to ſuperintend the ſalting in of the pork,
An encloſure was marked out by a rope, faſtened to the ends of ſome
ſtakes, which were ſtuck into the ground at four or five yards diſtance
from each other. This barrier was intended to keep out the natives, day
and night, above two thouſand of whom, moſt of them from Tongata-
boo, were already gathered round us.
Futtafaihe, one of the ſons of the late King Poulaho, repaired early to
the ſame place. He took upon himſelf to preſerve order among the na-
tives; and accordingly our trade was carried on with the greateſt peace-
ableneſs: but we ſaw with regret that, to make himſelf obeyed, he em-
ployed means as barbarous with reſpect to them, as laborious to himſelf;
for if any one of them dared to paſs the encloſure that was traced out,
by a few hand's-breadths only, he immediately threw at him the firſt
thing that came to hand, as a warning for him to retire, without paying
any regard to the injury that might be done by it. A young man, who
advanced a little too far, had nearly loſt his life by his inattention to the
orders of Futtaſaihe, who immediately threw at him with violence a large
log of wood, but he was fortunate enough to avoid the blow.
We were obliged to croſs this numerous circle to penetrate into the in-
terior part of the iſland; and it was not eaſy to avoid treading on the feet
or legs of the natives, who ſat on the ground very cloſe together, all with
their legs acroſs; yet, far from being angry, they held out their hands to
affiſt us when, for fear of hurting them, we knew not where to ſet our
feet. A few of them followed us.
We found many of the people employed in conſtructing huts, in order
to
MARCH.] OF LA PEROUSE. 337
to remain on the iſland of Pangăimotoo; whither they were attracted by
our making choice of this little iſland as a market place for the proviſion,
with which they could ſupply us. Several of theſe huts were already
finiſhed. The iſlanders, whom we met with in them, received us with
various teſtimonies of great affection.
The ground occupied by each of theſe habitations was not, in general,
above ſixteen feet long, and ten feet wide. The roof, about ſix feet and
a half high in the middle, ſloped down to the ground. In one of its
fides an opening was made, ſometimes the whole length of the hut, but
fo low, that there was no cntering, without ſtooping ſo much, as to be
obliged to creep on all fours. On the oppoſite ſide we obſerved another
opening, ſtill lower and narrower, which ſeemed intended to promote
the circulation of air. In others a greater number of openings were
ſeen, but ſmaller, and made even in the ends of the huts. We admired
the fine texture of the mats, which were ſpread upon the ground.
The roofs were covered with the leaves of the cocoa-tree, or of the
mountain palm ſcorypha umbraculifera), ſometimes too with graſs or
ruſhes. Under ſuch a roof there is no ſtanding, except in the middle ;
but theſe people commonly ſquat on the ground, ſo that they can fit to-
lerably near to the ſides.
In the neighbourhood of theſe tranquil dwellings we frequently met
with very obliging though ſtout men, who took care to inform ſtrangers
of the favourable reception they might meet with from the fair-ſex in
theſe fortunate iſlands. Their offers, no doubt, were in ſome meaſure
owing to their wiſh to oblige; but it appeared that they had an eye to
their own intereſt at the ſame time, as they nevcr forgot to aſk ſome re-
compenfe in return for their information.
We walked ſome time along the borders of the ſhore, on which we
faw, a great number of bread-fruit trees in full vigour, though their roots
were bathed with brackiſh water. But ſoon the water riſing with the
flood-tide, obliged us to go farther within the land, where we traverſed
thick woods, in the ſhade of which grew the tacca pinnatifida, ſºcchartſm.
ſpontaneumi, muffandafrondoſa, abrºs precatorius (Jamaica wild liquorice),
* U u the
338 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
the ſpecies of pepper tree which they uſe for making kava, &c. We
then walked over grounds employed partly in the culture of the ſweet
potatoe, partly in that of the ſpecies of yam called dio/Corea alata; we
ſaw, too, young plants of vacoua, or pandanus odoratiſfima (ſweet ſcented
ſcrew-pine), the leaves of which are uſed for making mats. Farther
on we found plantations of the paper mulberry tree, cultivated for the
ſake of its bark, of which they fabricate ſtuff for garments. The hibiſ.
cus tiliaceus grew ſpontaneouſly on the borders of theſe cultivated ſpots,
and cloſe by the ſea. Its bark likewiſe furniſhes them with materials for
making a kind of ſtuff, but much inferior in beauty to that of the paper
mulberry tree.
Some of the natives, who followed us very cloſe, affe&ted the appear-
ance of having no other deſign, but that of being uſeful to us: yet we
caught ſome of them now and then putting their hands into our pockets,
to ſteal what they could find; and when we diſcovered them, we always
obliged them to return what they had taken. One of them, however,
having ſeized a knife, that belonged to one of the crew, took to his heels
with all ſpeed, and diſappeared amid the wood.
It was not long before we fell in with a company of the iſlanders, who
were preparing to drink kava. They invited us to ſit down by them, and
we remained all the time they were preparing their beverage. They
give the ſame name to the ſpecies of pepper tree, which conſtitutes its
chief ingredient, and the long, fleſhy, and very tender roots of which are
often more than four inches thick. Theſe they firſt cleaned with the
greateſt care. They then chewed them, ſo as to reduce them to a kind
of paſte, of which they formed balls, nearly four inches in circumference.
As faſt as theſe balls were made, they were put into a large wooden veſſel;
and when the bottom was covered with them, ſtanding about four inches
diſtant from each other, they filled up the veſſel with water. The li-
quor was then ſhaken, and ſerved out in cups to all the gueſts. Some
drank out of cocoa-nut ſhells, others made themſelves cups on the occa-
ſion from the leaves of the plantain tree.
The large roots, with which the kava was made, had, in the direction
of
MARCH.] OF LA PEROUSE. 330
of their length, very ſlender woody fibres, which ſubſided to the bottom
of the liquor. Theſe fibres, the perſon who ſerved it out, collected in
one of his hands, and uſed as a ſponge, to fill the cups.
We were invited to take a ſhare of this beverage; but our ſeeing it
prepared was ſufficient to make us decline the civil offer. The chaplain
of our ſhip, however, had the courage to ſwallow a bumper of it. For
my part, as I was deſirous alſo of taſting the flavour of the root, I pre-
ferred chewing a bit of it myſelf, and found it acrid and ſtimulant. Each
of the company afterwards ate ſome yams, freſh roaſted under the em-
bers, and plaintains; no doubt to take off the heat, which the ſtomach
muſt feel from this intoxicating liquor.
Theſe people ſet much ſtore by the pepper tree, from which they pro-
cure it. Its ſtalk, frequcintly bigger than the thumb, is tolerably ſtraight,
and requires no ſupport. They cut off ſeveral pieces in the ſpaces be-
tween the knots, and made us a preſent of them, informing us, that they
ſet them thus in the ground, in order to propagate the plant.
We were not far from the tents of the obſervatory, when ſome others
of the natives invited us to eat fruit, among which we had the pleaſure of
feeing that of the ſpondias cytherea (pommes de Cythère). Every one ſat
down: Citizen Riche juſt laid down a pole-axe, when a native crept
ſliky behind him, took it up, and ran off as faſt as he could. We im-
mediately purſued him, but he had too far the ſtart for us to come up
with him. A chief, who was then near us, would make the thief re-
ftore the pole-axe, and ran after him likewiſe ; but he ſoon returned, and
appeared very ſorry, that he could not overtake the fugitive.
We ſoon arrived within the encloſure where the traffic was carried on,
Futtafaihe was ſtill there. We were informed that he had cauſed a
ſabre, and ſeveral other things belonging to different perſons of the crew,
which had been ſtolen by the natives, to be returned. Riche accord-
ingly applied to him, in order to procure his pole-axe again ; but the in-
quiries of Futtafaihe were to no purpoſe.
27th. A great many canoes ſurrounded our ſhips, though the General
had given orders to oblige thºm to keep off; but they diſpoſed of their
... } U u 2 mcrohandize
3AO VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
merchandize to better advantage here, than at the market on ſhore : for
there little was ſold but eatables, the price of which was fixed ; while on
board they frequently received a high price for objećts of fancy. Beſides,
theſe canoes carried on another ſort of trade, ſtill more rigorouſly prohi-
bited by the orders of General Dentrecaſteaux: but the ſentries not being
very ſtrićt in this point, many young girls eaſily evaded their notice, and
were creeping in at the port-holes every moment.
We went aſhore very early at the neareſt place, where we had the
pleaſure to ſee that theſe iſlanders were in poſſeſſion of the ſugar-cane.
They offered us ſome very large ones, which we accepted. They ſold
us ſeveral birds, and among others a beautiful ſpecies of lory, which they
informed us had been brought to them from Feejee; a fine ſpecies of
dove, remarkable for a red ſpot on the head, and known by the name of
columba purpurata ; the Philippine rail, rallits philippenſis; the pigeon
called columba facifica, &c. Several had the lizard known by the appel-
lation of lacerta amboimenſis, which they offered us as very good to eat.
The natives, who followed us, were very troubleſome to us by their
number, and even by their eagerneſs to oblige us. Seeing us colle&t
plants, ſeveral pulled up indiſcriminately all they found, made them up
into large bundles, brought them to us, and then wanted to load us with
them. Others, obſerving us collećt inſects, were inceſſantly aſking whe-
ther they were not to feed the birds we had juſt purchaſed. But moſt
put on a ſemblance of having the greateſt affection for us, while they
were purloining our things. Several times we cndeavoured in vain to
get rid of them, the methods we took being unqueſtionably too mild, for
people accuſtomed to be treated ſo roughly by their chiefs.
Futtafajhe, accompanied by another chief, had been to dine with the
General, who preſented one with a ſcarlet ſuit of clothes, the other with
a blue. Adorned with this new dreſs, which they had put on over their
own clothes, they were in one of the tents of the obſervatory, when
Fecnou made his appearance at the entrance of it, and diſplayed great
jealouſy at ſeeing them thus equipped. ; retired with an air of great
diſcontent, ſaying, that cvery body paſſed themſelves off for chicfs (gguì),
and
MARCH.] OF LA PEROUSE. 34 1
and went to drink kava with ſome others. We did not know what to
think of Feenou's precipitate retreat; but we preſumed, that he was leſs
powerful than Futtaſaihc, and declined appearing before him, that he
might not be under the neceſſity of paying him the honours due to his
rank. -
The officer entruſted with the purchaſe of proviſion had a very labo-
rious taſk to fulfil: for, though he had fixed a regular value on every
article, the natives, ſtill in hopes of ſelling them dearer, never parted with
their goods till they had diſputed a long time about their price.
Preſſed by hunger, we retired into the tent, where the proviſion pur-
chaſed in the courſe of the day was depoſitco ; and were followed by two
natives, whom we took for chiefs. One of them ſhewed the greateſt
cagerneſs to ſelect for nie the choiceſt fruit: I had laid my hat on the
ground, thinking it a place of ſecurity; but theſe two thieves were not
inattentive to their trade; he that was behi-d me was adroit enough, to
hide my hat under his clothes, and went away, without my perceiving it;
and the other quickly followed him. I was the leſs apprehenſive of ſuch
a trick, as I did not ſuppoſe that they would have ventured upon an ar-
ticle of ſuch bulk, at the riſk of being caught within the encloſure, into
which we had permitted them to enter: beſides, a hat could be of very
little uſe to people who commonly go bare-headed. The addreſs they
diſplayed in robbing me, convinced us that it was not their firſt attempt;
and led us to preſume, that they frequently rob one another. The chiefs,
too, might have ſome intereſt in the thefts committed on us ; for we
frequently ſaw them ſeize what they found in the hands of their ſubjects,
whom they plundered very openly.
We were extremely unwilling to proceed to cxtremities with theſe
knaves; but it was high time to check their boldneſs, which impunity
ſerved only to encourage. With this view, we propoſed to let them ſee the
effect of our fire-arms on a cock, which we ticd to the end of a long pole.
But the perſon, who fired at it, was ſo incautious, as to take a double-
barrelled gun, which had been cxpoſed to the dampneſs of the air all the
preeeding night; in conſequence of which, the firſt time it flaſhed in the
parl,
3-12 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
pan, the next it hung fire; ſo that he was obliged to take another piece
to bring down the cock. Accordingly the natives appeared to retain a
much higher idea of their weapons than of ours, when one of them, with
a long arrow, furniſhed with three diverging points, ſhot another cock,
fixed at the end of the ſame pole. In order to take aim at the bird,
having placed himſelf juſt under it, he raiſed himſelf as high as he could
on tiptoe, ſo that the point of his arrow was not above four yards from
the cock. All the reſt had their eyes fixed upon him, and kept the moſt
profound ſilence; but the moment he hit the objećt, their ſhouts of ad-
miration gave us to underſtand that they did not in general ſucceed ſo
well, even at ſo ſhort a diſtance.
The arrow uſed upon this occaſion was near three yards long; but
they have others of inferior dimenſions, which they likewiſe carry in
quivers of bamboo. • I
28th. Two ſentries kept guard day and night at the poſt we had eſtabliſhed
on the Iſland of Panga'imotoo, who were ſufficient to keep off ſuch of the
natives as might endeavour to ſteal into it ſecretly, to carry off the ar-
ticles we had depoſited there. Undoubtedly no apprehenſions had been
entertained, that they would break into it by force, for no precautions
had been taken to guard againſt an aſſault. A native, however, took
advantage of a heavy fall of rain, which came on juſt as day was break-
ing, to get behind one of our ſentries, and gave him ſuch a violent ſtroke
on the head with his club, that he knocked him down, though his hel-
met-cap warded off much of the violence of the blow. The aſſaſſin inn-
mediately made off with his muſket; and the other ſentry inſtantly gave
notice of it to thoſe of us, who were ſleeping in the tents. The alarm
was great, and ſeveral moved nearer to the ſhore, that they might be able
to reach the long-boat, if the iſlanders ſhould fall upon us in great num-
ber. The cry of alarm was heard on board the Eſperance, that ſhip hav-
ing come within hail of the ſhore the preceding evening, and immediately
a few muſkets were fired from her, to give notice of it to the Recherche:
but our fear of a general attack from the natives did not continue long, for
we quickly aſſured ourſelves, that moſt of them were ſtill faſt aſleep round
OUlſ
MARCH.) OF LA PEROUSE, 343
our poſt, and thoſe, who had been awakened, had fled. An officer, too,
who arrived from the interior of the iſland, almoſt at the inſtant of the
aſſaſſination, reported, that he had ſeen a great many of the natives, all
of whom appeared to him to be in a profound ſleep.
The Commander of our expedition went on ſhore about ſix o'clock,
with a detachment well armed, and gave orders to ſtrike the tents im-
mediately, and carry them aboard, with every thing that had been left at
the poſt for the purpoſe of barter.
Our removal much grieved ſeveral of the chiefs, who came to the Ge-
neral to expreſs the ſorrow they felt at this diſagreeable affair. They
loudly expreſſed their diſapprobation of this cowardly piece of treachery,
ſaying, that the culprit deſerved death, and ſhould not long eſcape the
due reward of his crime. At the ſame time they did every thing in their
power to prevail on us to continue our barter as before.
Our detachment having advanced a little way into the iſland, to exa-
mine the diſpoſition of the natives, found near a thouſand, who had ſlept
in the neighbourhood of our poſt, and requeſted them to remove to a
greater diſtance; which they all did, except a ſmall party of armed men,
who, lifting up their clubs and ſpears, refuſed to retire a ſingle ſtep.
Perhaps it would have been proper to have puniſhed their audacity, which
led us to conſider them as accomplices of the aſſaſſin : but a chief, named
Toobou, one of the king's relations, fell upon them with fury, and quickly
diſperſed them by heavy blows with his club.
The General, before he got into the boat to return on board, made a
few preſents to the different chiefs, who were colle&ted around him. He
alſo required them to deliver up the aſſaſſin, and return the muſket he
had ſtolen, with the ſabre that had been taken from our gunner the day
before; informing them, that he would allow the barter to be renewed
on theſe conditions alone.
All the natives retired when our long boat put off from the ſhore; but
as ſoon as it arrived alongſide the veſſel, ſeveral of them went to the ſpot
we had quitted, and examined it very carefully, to ſee whether we had
not left ſomething or other behind us. We obſerved one, who had the
dexterity
344 VOYAGE IN. SEARCH [1793.
dexterity to pull out the mail by which one of our clocks had been hung
up to a poſt. *
Feenou came on board in the afternoon, and made the General a pre-
ſent of ſome bread-fruit, yams, plantains, and a pig. In return he re-
ceived a ſaw, a hatchet, and ſeveral chiſels: but we perceived, that he
gave the hatchet a decided preference to the other tools. After having
paid the greateſt attention to the account we gave him of the attack
made on Our ſentry by one of the natives, he promiſed to return the muſ-
ket the next day ; and told us, that he would bring the aſſaffin to us,
and do juſtice on him in our preſence. He deſired to ſee the gunner,
who had received a large wound in the head, but happily not danger-
ous, as the helmet-cap he wore had deadened the blow, Feenou diſ-
played much ſenſibility on ſeeing the wound, and preſented the gunner
with a picce of the ſtuff fabricated of the bark of the paper mulberry
tree, to uſe in dreſſing the wound. In fact the properties of this ſtuff
render it well adapted to ſuch a purpoſe. t {
Feenou having ordered ſeveral of the natives, who attended him, to
make Kava, theſe immediately began to chew ſome large roots of the
fpecies of pepper tree, to which they give that name, and the liquor was
ſoon prepared. He drank of it firſt, and the reſt was ſhared among the
other natives, who, as well as Feenou, ate plantains after it. Out of re-
fpcćt to him, they all ſquatted on the deck, while he ſat on the watch
bench.
We ſhowed this chief ſeveral engravings in the voyages of Captain
Cook. It was with the greateſt reſpect that he ſeveral times pronounced
the name of that celcbrated navigator, which he called Toote. It is re-
markable, that though we could pronounce words of their language
with great facility, they could not do ſo with ours: for inſtance, when
they wiſhed to pronounce the word François, they ſaid Palançois ; in-
ſtead of Beaupré, they ſaid Beaupélé, &c. Feenou takked to us of Ota-
heite, and ſaid, that he had ſeen Omai at Anamooka. Perhaps this is
the ſame Feenou who was particularly intimate with Cook in his laſt
voyage; though that navigator ſays he was a tall man.
His
MARCH.) OF LA PEROUSE C, 15
His attendants ſaid a great deal to us about King Toobou, of whoſ,
power they made great boaſt; and to point out to us his ſuperiority, they
raiſed the right arm very high, pronouncing his name at the ſame tirne,
and then touched it near the elbow with the left hand, to mark the in, it ci-
ority of Feenou. He himſelf aſſented to this pre-eminence of Toobou,
who, he ſaid, was to be on board us the next day.
29th. I had intended to ſpend this day on the iſland of Tongataboo,
with ſome of my ſhipmates; but the General deſired us to poſtpone this
excurſion, till the chiefs had given us a proof, that they were really deter-
mined to put an end to the depredations committed by their ſubjects.
Several canoes ſurrounded our veſſels, but no one was permitted to
come alongſide. Many of their people, weary of their ſituation, as they
could not carry on any kind of traffic, amuſed themſelves with fiſhing.
Their nets were nearly nine yards long, about a yard and a half deep, and
the meſhes were about an inch ſquare. From the ſhape of theſe nets,
ſeveral of which we had already purchaſed, we imagined that they uſed
them as we do ſeines, hauling them up on the beach ; but we were much
aſtoniſhed to ſee them throw them out in the open road, much in the ſame
manner as we do a caſtifig-net. On the lower ſide were faſtened pieces
of coral, which ſunk the net rapidly to the bottom ; and the fiſhermen
immediately dived, to bring the two ends together by means of ſmall
lines faſtened to them ; thus encloſing the fiſh, which they put into their
canoes. It is obvious that fiſh muſt be very plenty, for them to be
caught in this manner in the open ſea. No doubt the fiſhermen would
not have taken all this trouble, had not their hunger been extremely
craving; for, as they had no means of dreſſing their fiſh in their canoes,
they did not heſitate to devour it raw.
About nine in the morning three chiefs came on board, to acquaint
us that Toobou, the ſupreme chief (egui lai) of Tongataboo, Vayao,
Anamooka, &c. was coming to pay us a viſit, and that he would de-
liver into our hands the aſſaffin we demanded, and reſtore the muſket
that had been ſtolen. In fact, it was ſcarcely eleven o'clock when Too-
bou arrived, with ſeveral chiefs. The aſſaſſin was at his feet, lying on
X x his
$46 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
his belly with his hands bound behind his back. He ordered him on board
immediately, and then directed the muſket, with its bayonet fixed, which
had been taken from one of our ſentries, to be brought. Two pieces of
ſtuff, made of the bark of the paper mulberry, ſo large, that each, if
ſpread out, would have completely covered our veſſel, two hogs, and ſe-
veral very large mats, compoſed the preſent which he brought to the
Commander of our expedition. The warrior Feenou, not diſdaining to
perform the office of executioner, lifted up his club, to beat ºut the brains
of the culprit, and it was ſomewhat difficult to prevent him from doing
juſtice on the priſoner before our eyes. At length, however, he delivered
him into the hands of the General, imagining, no doubt, that he was de-
firous of keeping him, to inflićt on him himſelf the puniſhment due to his
crime. The priſoner too, ſuppoſing that his laſt hour was come, already
ſtretched out his neck, when our ſentry, whom he had knocked down,
begged the life of the offender. On this he was diſmiſſed, with a few
ſtripes on the back with a rope's end : but Feenou, thinking this pu-
niſhment far too little, again raiſed his club, to put an end to his exiſt-
ence. The General bawled out as loud as he could, ical maté, (that he
ſhould grant him his life); but Feenou declared, nevertheleſs, that he
ſhould not eſcape the puniſhment he deſerved. As we were examining
ſeveral marks on his head, from blows this man had received with a club,
before he had been brought to us, we were informed, that theſe had been
given to him when he was taken. The General ordered our ſurgeon to
dreſs his wounds, and then removed him to the Eſperance, intending to
ſet him aſhore in the night, to endeavour to ſave his life.
King Toubou received as a preſent from the General's hands a
ſuit of ſcarlet, in which he drcſed himſelf immediately, and a large
hatchet. Feenou, too, received a ſcarlet ſuit, with a hatchet of much
ſmaller dimcnſions; and a few ſmall hatchets were diſtributed among
the other chiefs. They were all on the deck, forming a circle round
Toobou, who ſat on the watch bench, with Feenou on his right hand,
and another chicſ, named Omalai, on his left.
Toobou appeared to us to be at leaſt ſixty years old. He was of a
middling
MARCH.] OF LA PEROUSE. 3. *
middling height, and ſtill much more corpulent than Feenou. His gar-
ments were made in the ſame ſhape as thoſe of the other natives, differ-
ing only in the fineneſs of their texture. He wore a very beautiful mat,
faſtened round him by means of a girdle, fabricated of the bark of the
paper mulberry tree.
When Toobou gave orders for making kava, we requeſted ſome of the
chiefs to take upon themſelves its preparation, and chew the roots of
the kava pepper tree, which we offered them ; but they uniformly re-
fuſed, with an air of diſdaining an occupation beneath them. It was
entruſted to men of an inferior claſs (mouds), who were ſeated near the
middle of the circle formed by the chiefs.
The rain, which had come on in the mean time, increaſing rapidly.
we imagined that every one of them would have ſought ſhelter; but they
all braved the weather, without quitting their places, except the king,
who withdrew into the General's cabin, with Feenou, and Toobou-Foa,
one of the royal family. Kava was carried to them in cups, which had
juſt been made of plaintain leaves, and then plaintains were offered to them.
The General invited them all three to dinner; but the king did not per-
mit either of the chiefs to fit at the ſame table with him. He taſted all the
diſhes, refuſed moſt of them, and ate very little of thoſe that he did not ap-
pear to diſlike, ſugar excepted. The General had made him a preſent of
a bird-organ, with which he was wonderfully amuſed, and on which he
played almoſt all dinner time.
Theſe iſlanders ſhave with the edge of a ſhell, and the operation takes
up a great deal of time. They were ſtruck with aſtoniſhment, when
they ſaw how quickly our barber took off the beards of ſeveral of our
crew, and every one was deſirous of experiencing his ſkill. Among the
reſt, he had the honour of ſhaving his majeſty himſelf.
About half after three, the king giving us notice of his intention to
depart, an offer was made to put him aſhore in the barge, which he ac-
cepted. He was attended by a great number of canoes, and ſoon arrived
at the iſland of Pangainotoo, with moſt of the chiefs who had accom-
panied him on board. As ſoon as he landed, he ordered ſome yams, a
X x 2 bread-
3.48 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
bread-fruit, ſome pork and plaintains, to be brought; and we were much
ſurpriſed to ſee him eat with a very hearty appetite; for we imagined
that he was not hungry, as he had done ſo little honour to our General's
table. We had no reaſon to ſuppoſe, that our diſhes had not been to his
taſte, ſince the other natives were perfectly ſatisfied with them. Perhaps
it is a point of etiquette, for his majeſty not to indulge his appetite when
he accepts an invitation, particularly from ſtrangers. He afterwards
made a ſpeech, in which, no doubt, he expreſſed our friendly diſpoſition
toward them, and our intention to puniſh all who ſhould be guilty of
robbing us; and then he repaired to the iſland of Tongataboo. -
Juſt before night Feenou brought the ſabre which had been taken from
one of our gunners. He returned it to the General, and made him a pre-
ſent of a very large fiſh, of the perch genus, the perca guttata (the hind
of Cateſby). Before he left us, he informed the canoes around, that we
ſhould begin to trade with them again the next day. * r
30th. Very early the next morning our boat was ſent on ſhore to the
iſland of Panga'imotoo, with a quantity of ſtuffs and hardware. The ca-
noes round our ſhip were ſeveral times deſired in vain to repair to the
market, which had juſt been re-eſtabliſhed on that little iſland. We
fancied, however, that we had diſcovered effectual means of driving them
away from our ſhips, when we ſaw them take flight with precipitancy,
on ſome water being ſpouted on them from an engine ; but the ſucceſs
of this mode was of ſhort duration; for ſoon finding that they ran no
riſk but of a wetting, we might play the engine on them as long as we
pleaſed, and they would not ſtir. Dauribeau, the captain of the Re-
cherche, then gave orders, to upſet them when any of our boats went
ſhore; and preſently the launch was ſent off for the neareſt part of the
iſland, with various inſtruments for making aſtronomical obſervations.
Accordingly our people pullcd away, ſteering directly for a canoe which
had three men and two girls on board ; and, as they carried away the out-
rigger, we ſhould ſoon have had the vexation of ſccing theſe two pretty
laſſes tunnbled into the water ; but to prevent this accident, the men
jumped overboard, and two of them ſteadied the canoe, while the third
{ct
MARCH.] OF LA PEROUSE. 349
ſet the out-rigger to rights, and then they paddled away for Tongata-
boo without delay. The other canoes, warried of their danger, had the
addreſs to avoid ſuch of our boats as afterwards endeavoured to upſet
them.
Feenou came on board very early in the morning, with Toobou, the
king's brother. Theſe two chiefs invited the General to a feaſt, which
the king intended to give him the next day but one, in the iſland of
Tongataboo. Having requeſted us to let them ſee the effects of our
ſwivels and carronades, we gratified them with a ſpecimen, at which they
ſhowed equal marks of affright and admiration.
When we arrived on ſhore, we obſerved with ſurpriſe, that the market
was very well ſupplied, though there were not a fourth as many of the
natives preſent, as on the preceding days. Every thing there was going
on with the greateſt order.
The ſame officer (Lagrandière) had ſtill the management of the traffic
with them for vićtualling the ſhips. He was ſingularly delighted with
the thought of having procured ſome ends of iron hoops, to be cut into
the ſhape of carpenter's chiffels, and of having turned them to good ac-
count in dealing with the natives. Yet we had on board a great number
of very good tools, which had been brought from Europe, to give them ;
and we could not conceive how it was poſſible, that the ſatisfaction he
muſt have felt at procuring them durable inſtruments, ſhould not have
been of more weight with him, than any other conſideration.
Traverfing the interior of the iſland, we ſaw a barber employed in ſhay-
ing one of the chiefs, after their faſhion. The chief ſat with his back
leaning againſt his hut. The barber's razor conſiſted of the two ſhells of
the ſolen radiatus (violet-coloured, or radiated razor-ſheath), one of which
he held firmly againſt the ſkin with the left hand, while with the right
he applied the edge of the other to the hair, as near the root as he could,
and by repeated ſcraping, brought it away, ſcarcely nore than a hair at a
time. We were aſtoniſhed at ſo much patience, and left him, as might
be ſuppoſed, long before he had finiſhed his operation. -
This
350 VOYAGE IN SEARCII [1793.
The art of the potter has made no great progreſs among theſe people.
We ſaw in their poſſeſſion ſome very porous earthen veſſels, which they
had baked indeed, but very ſlightly. In theſe they kept freſh water,
which would have quickly filtered through them, if they had not taken the
precaution to give them a coating of reſin. Veſſels thus made could be
of no uſe to them in dreſfing vićtuals, The natives ſhowed us ſome of a
tolerably elegant form, which they ſaid had been brought from Feejee.
(See Plate XXXI. Fig. 8.) We ſaw them drinking in companies out of
cups of this ſort, round which they put a net of a pretty large meſh, to be
able to carry them about eaſily. When they had emptied a few of them,
they went to fill them again out of little holes, which they had dug in the
ground, that the water might flow into them. Though theſe holes were
about a hundred and fifty toiſes only from the ſhore, the water was ſcarcely
to be called brackiſh. As we found it neceſſary to replace what we had
expended fince leaving Adventure Bay, we dug a hole in the ground, more
than a yard deep, and at a good diſtance from the ſhore, and it was pre-
*ſently ſupplied with very drinkable water. With this we filled ſmall caſks,
which the natives of the toua claſs were very ready to carry on their ſhoul-
ders to the boat : but the part on which the iron hoops of the caſk reſted
being bare, was ſoon galled, and they gave up their work. We had on
board, however, a little cart, which we had brought from Europe, and on
this they readily conſented to draw the barrels down to the ſhore. The
touas, twelve in number, ſung to mark the time of uniting their efforts in
pulling. Theſe twelve ſoon increaſed to twenty, and at firſt required no
addition to the pay we had agreed upon for each turn, which was twelve
glaſs beads: a few days after, however, they demanded a higher price for
their labour. They aſſured us that we ſhould not find water at Tongata-
boo, except in ponds, or by digging holes in the ground as at Pangaimatoo;
but that very good ſpring-water was to be procured at Kao, a ſmall iſland
near Tofoa. t
I had not yet ſeen a dog ſince we had been at anchor. In the after-
noon a native brought one to ſell us, aſſuring us that its fleſh was very
good
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MARCH.] OF LA PEROUSE. 35 |
good eating. They give the name of kouli to this animal, which in theſe
iſlands is commonly of a fallow colour, ſmall, and pretty nearly reſembling
the Pomeranian dog.
Citizen Riche informed us, that the aſſaſſin, who was mentioned above,
having been conveyed to the weſtern coaſt of Panga'imatoo the preceding
night, by one of the Eſperance's boats, had heſitated ſome time about
going on ſhore, and had inquired of the boat's crew, with an air of great
uneaſineſs, which way Feenou had gone, when he went on ſhore in the
evening. At laſt he ventured to land, but crawled along the beach on
his hands and knees for more than three hundred paces, before he
durſt proceed into the interior part of the iſland.
Cloſe by the market, to which the natives brought their different kinds
of proviſion, we obſerved a woman of extraordinary corpulence, at leaſt
fifty years of age, round whom the natives formed a very numerous circle.
Some of them paid her their reſpects in our preſence, by taking her right
foot and placing it on their head, making a very low bow; others came
and touched the ſole of her right foot with their right hands. Several
chiefs, whom we knew, paid her other marks of their reverence. We
were informed that this lady was Queen Tiné. Her hair, cut to the
length of about two inches and half, was covered, as well as part of her
forehead, with a reddiſh powder.
After having expreſſed her inclination to go on board the Recherche,
to ſee the Commander of our expedition, ſhe invited us to accompany
her, and immediately ſet off with part of her court. She preſented Ge-
neral Dentrecaſteaux with ſeveral very fine mats, a hog, and ſome
yams; and he gave her in return various pieces of ſtuff, on which ſhe ap-
peared to ſet a great value.
Deſirous of knowing what effect our vocal muſic, accompanied by a vio-
lin and cittern, would have on theſe people, we entertained them with a
ſpecimen, and had the pleaſure of perceiving that it was pleaſing to
them ; but a few tunes on a bird-organ obtained more ſtrikin
their applauſe. -
g marks of
Quecn Tiné, unwilling to remain in our debt, ordered ſome young
girls
35 *
2. VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
}
girls of her ſuite to fing. One of the prettieſt immediately roſe, and we
did not fail to applaud her performance. She ſung, indeed, nothing but
apou leſley; apou le lley; apou leſley ; apou lelley ;
which ſhe continued repeating for half an hour at leaſt; but ſhe diſplayed
ſo much grace in the action with which ſhe accompanied this air, that
we were ſorry ſhe finiſhed ſo ſoon. She movcd her arms forward, one af-
ter the other, following the meaſure, and at the ſame time raiſed her feet
alternately, though without quitting her place : the time ſhe marked
with her fore-finger, which, after having been bent by the thunib,
was let go againſt the middle finger; and ſometimes by moving the
thumb againſt the fore and middle fingers. The beauty of theſe move-
ments depended greatly on the fine ſhape of the hand and arm, which is
ſo common among theſe people, and was ſtriking in this young woman.
Soon after two other young girls repeated the ſame air, which they ſung
in parts, one ſinging uniformly a fifth to the other ; and ſeveral men roſe
to dance to the muſic of their melodious voices. Theſe marked the time
by movements analogous to thoſe of the young women, at firſt with their
feet, and frequently carrying one of their hands to the oppoſite arm.
We took the words of this air (apou lelley, charming evening) as a com-
pliment from the iſlanders, congratulating themſelves on ſpending the af-
ternoon with us. -
The queen taſted the different diſhes we offered her, but ſhe gave a par-
ticular preference to preſerved bananas. Our maitre-d'hotel ſtood behind
her in readineſs to remove her plate, but ſhe ſaved him the trouble, by
keeping both it and the table-cloth for herſelf.
Tiné was extremely tenacious of the honours, which the chiefs could
not refuſe to pay when they met her ; and hence ſome of them avoided
her preſence. Feenou, and the brother of King Toobou were on board,
and had juſt promiſed to ſtay and dine with us when ſhe arrived.
They immediately intreated, with great earneſtneſs, that ſhe might not be
permitted

MARCII.] ÓF LA PEROUSE. , , ,
*
permitted to come upon deck; but ſhe cance on board at once without
ceremony, and the two chiefs haſtened into their canoes, becauſe other.
wiſe they would have been obliged, as many of the natives aſſured us, to
come and take her right foot, and carry it very reſpectfully to their head,
as a tokcn of their inferiority. The queen informed us with an air of ſº-
tisfaction, that King Toobou himſelf was bound to pay her theſe marks of
reſpect, becauſe it was from her he derived his dignity.
After having informed us that ſhe purpoſed to take up her abode in
the iſland of Pangaïmotoo, as long as we ſtaid in the road, ſhe invited the
General to come and reſide on ſhore, and ſleep in her houſe. I do not ima.
gine that the old lady had any other intention, than to procure him a more
pleaſant and healthy reſidence than he had on board : but the General
had no opportunity of aſcertaining with preciſion her motive for this
obliging offer, for he did not accept her invitation.
One of our ſailors had in his hand a bit of bacon, which he was going
to eat, when Féogo, one of Tiné's maids of honour, appeared deſirous of
taſting it. He offered it to her, and ſhe received it with thankfulneſs :
but as ſhe could not think of eating it in the royal preſence, the Queen had
the complaiſance to go and fit about twelve paces off, that her attendant
might be at a diſtance from her ; yet before ſhe quitted her place, ſhe had
received from the young lady the ſame marks of reſpe&t, as others of the
natives had already paid her in our preſence.
Two hours before ſun-ſet, Tiné expreſſed a wiſh to return to the iſland
of Pangainotoo, and ſoon after went in our barge with part of her at-
tendants.
We had ſeen in Bligh's narrative, that, juſt as he was preparing to quit
the iſland of Tofoa, the ſailor, whom he had ſent on ſhore to caſt off the
mooring of the launch, was killed by one of the natives. The people of
Tongataboo informed us that the murder was committed by a chief named
Moudoulalo ; but we could not learn the notive which had induced hip,
to this exceſſive barbarity. All of us were aſtoniſhed at the coolneſs with
which the natives told the tale.
We had already ſeen ſeveral knives of Engliſh manufacture in the hands
Yy of
35 J
| VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793,
of the natives; and this morning early Feenou brought us a bayonet that
he had received from Captain Cook, the point of which he requeſted us.
to ſharpen, as it was blunted.
in the afternoon we viſited ſome iſlets, lying at a very little diſtance
from cach other between Tongataboo and Panga'imotoo. They are all
connected together by a ſhoal, which is almoſt wholly dry at low water.
We firſt arrived at a bank of ſand, lately emerged from the water, on
which, however, a commencement of vegetation already appeared. From
this, called by the natives hiou, we proceeded to the little iſle of Manima;
to reach which we were obliged to croſs a tolerably rapid current, not
above ſix feet deep ſoon after the tide had begun to make in, and the
water of which was warmed by paſſing over a beach ſtrongly heated
by the rays of the ſun. Here we found one of the Queen's maids of ho-
nour, to whom we preſented a few beads; and immediately ſhe ſent to
catch a couple of fowls to offer us. Theſe we took the trouble of carrying,
left ſhe ſhould have been chagrined at our refuſal of them. She was very
careful to let us know that ſhe did not give them by way of barter; af-
feóting to repeat with an air of dignity ikai fokatau, and to inform us by .
the word adoupé, that ſhe made us a preſent of them. Indeed the chiefs
never offered to barter their articles for Ours; they made us preſents, and
received whatever we thought proper to give.
It is remarkable that the natives brought to our market ſeveral cocks,
but very ſeldom any hens. Theſe they kept to hatch chickens, and of
courſe they ſold us but few eggs likewiſe. -
The two fowls now given us were hens, and had been caught in our
fight with the ſame kind of net, as we had ſeen employed to take fiſh in
the open road.
The ſoil of the iſland of Manima is little cultivated, we ſaw in it, how-
ever, a few fields of yams, cocoa trees, and plantains. §
After croſſing a channel as ſhallow as the preceding, we arrived at
Oneata. Having the curioſity to examine the inſide of a habitation, con-
ſtructed with much art, we were greatly ſurprized to ſee a chief, who, ſit-
ting very gravely near the middle of the hut, permitted a foremaſt-man.
of
MARCH.] OF LA PEROUSE. 3.5 5
of our ſhip to take the greateſt freedoms with one of the prettieſt girls in
g us ſome Cocoa nuts, that he
could not allow us to drink their liquor within his dwelling. We could
not have ſuppoſed that the witneſs of the party, we had juſt happened to
interrupt under his roof, would have been ſo rigid to pcrſons who came
the iſland. He informed us, on offerin
thither merely to quench their thirſt; but we made a point of not diſ-
puting the matter with him.
Two natives arrived in the mean time, bringing in their hands
ſome very ripe cocoa nuts opened, and with theſe we ſaw them prepare
a diſh, of which they appeared to be very fond. With ſhells, fixed in a
piece of wood by way of handle, they ſcraped out the nuts, which they
bruiſed with a very hot ſtone, ſo as to make a pulp of it; this they re-
duced to the conſiſtence of a pudding, after mixing it with ſome freſh
roaſted bread-fruit; which done, they formed it into balls; and theſe
they ate immediately.
Under a large ſhed we ſaw a double canoe, forty feet long, placed there
by the natives to preſerve it againſt the injuries of the weather.
We were not far from the little iſland called Nougou Nougou, when
fome of the natives pointed out to us an iſlet, by the name of Mackaha,
very near Panga'imotoo. We proceeded toward the laſt iſland, and, as the
tide was riſing, we were obliged to wade up to our middles, to reach it.
We ſoon reached the place, where the queen kept a regular court. It
was under the ſhade of a very buſhy bread-fruit tree, at a ſmall diſtance
from our market. There ſhe was giving a concert of vocal muſic, in
which Futtafaihe ſung, he regulating the time, which all the muſicians
followed with the greateſt accuracy. Some performed their parts by
accompanying the ſimple melody of the reſt with various modulations.
In theſe we occaſionally noticed diſcords, which ſeemed to be highly
agreeable to the ears of the natives.
During this concert we ſaw a great number of people arrive, each
carrying a long pole on his ſhoulder, at the ends of which hung fiſh and
yams; and with theſe they immediately formed the baſe of a quadran-
gular pyramid, which they built up nearly to the height of two yards.
-Y y 2 This
356 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
This was a preſent for General Dentrecaſteaux, to whom Tiné was
giving an entertainment. She warned us againſt the danger of walking
alone about the iſland in the evening, telling us, that thieves might
take advantage of the darkneſs, to knock us down with their clubs, and
then rob us.
On the 1ſt of April, at fix in the morning, the General ſet off, agreeably
to the invitation of King Toobou, who meant to give him an entertain-
ment in the iſland of Tongataboo. We accompanied him, with almoſt
ail the officers of the expedition, and a detachment well armed.
Some of the natives, who followed us in their canoes, made us coaſt
along ſhore toward the weſt for ſome time, in order to condućt us to a
place, where, they informcd us, we ſhould find a great number of the
natives aſſembled with ſeveral of their chiefs. As ſoon as we landed,
Fecnou came to meet the General, and accompany him into the midſt of
a large aſſembly of the natives, with Oma/ai at their head. This chief
invited him to fit down on his left hand, after having ordered the natives,
to arrange themſelves in a circle round him. We reſted ourſelves a mo-
ment on ſome mats ſpread on the ground, under the ſhade of ſeveral
trees, ſome of which were the cerbera manghas (Indian mango tree), others
the hermandia ovigera (Ovigerous jack-in-the-box tree), the fruit of which
is uſed by theſe people as an ornament. Soon after we went to ſee a
very lofty ſhed, which ſerved as a ſhelter to a war-canoe, eighty-feet long,
the inſide of which was ſtrengthened by very ſtout knees, placed about a
yard diſtant from each other. Feenou, after having made us admire the
conſtruction of this double canoe, informed us, that he had taken it in an
cngagement, which he had fought with the people of the Fcejec Iſlands.
As we proceeded toward the weſt, we croſſed a ſpacious encloſure,
formed of paliſades, the poſts of which, placed in an oblique direction,
were tolerably near to each other, within this grew bread-fruit trees,
plaintain trees, the corypha umbraculifera (great fan palm), &c. Farther w
on, in an encloſure of much leſs extent, we found a ſmall hut, of a coni-
cal figure, in which, we were informed, were depoſited the remains of a
chief lately dead; and a caution was given us, that cntering into it was
prohibited.
MARCH.] OF LA PEROUSE. 35%
After this we walked on near a quarter of an hour in a narrow path,
bounded on each ſide by paliſades, till we reached an extenſive cſplanade,
where King Toobou was ſoon to arrive (Sec Plate XXVI.).
We were invited by Omalai, to take the cool air under a ſhed, the
ſhape of which was nearly half an oval, twelve yards in length, by five
in breadth. The roof, covered with the leaves of the vacotta, which
rendered it impenetrable to the heavieſt ſhower, had an elevation of about
five yards and a half, and deſcended within three quarters of a yard of the
ground, on which ſome fine mats were ſpread. The floor was raiſed ſix
or eight inches higher than the ſurrounding earth, which ſecured it from
all danger of being overflowed; and the roof was ſupported by ten pillars.
At length Toobou arrived with two of his daughters, who had poured
on their hair an abundance of cocoa-nut oil, and wore each a necklace,
made with the pretty ſeeds of the abrus precatorius.
The natives formed a great concourſe on all ſides. According to our
cſtimation, at leaſt four thouſand of them were preſent.
The place of honour, no doubt, was on the king's left hand, for it was
there he invited the General to fit, who immediately ordered the preſents,
which he intended for Toobou, to be brought forward. The king ex-
preſſed much thankfulneſs for them; but, of all that was offered him,
nothing ſo much excited the admiration of this numerous aſſembly, as a
piece of crimſon damaſk, the lively colour of which produced from all
ſides an exclamation of eho! eho! which they continued repeating a
long time, with an appearance of the greateſt ſurpriſe. They uttered
the ſame exclamation, when we unrolled a few pieces of ribbon, in which
red was the predominant colour. The General then preſented a ſhe-goat
with kid, a he-goat, and a couple of rabbits, one a buck, the other a doe,
of which the king promiſed to take the greateſt care, and to let them
breed and multiply in the iſland.
Omalai, who, Toobou told us, was his ſon, alſo received ſome preſents
from the General, as did ſeveral other chiefs.
On our right, toward the north-eaſt, were thirteen muſicians, ſeated
under the ſhade of a bread-fruit tree, which was loaded with a prodigious
º quantity
358 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
quantity of fruit. They ſung together in different parts. Four of them
held in their hands a bamboo of a yard, or a yard and a half long, with
which they beat time on the ground; the longeſt of theſe bamboos ſome-
times ſerving to mark the meaſure. The ſounds theſe inſtruments gave
approached tolerably near thoſe of the tambourin, and the following were
their proportions to each other. Two bamboos of the middle length
were in uniſon, the longeſt was a note and a half below them, and the
fhorteſt was two notes and a half above. The muſician, that ſung the
counter-tenor, made his voice be heard much above the reſt, though it
was a little hoarſe; and at the ſame time he accompanied it by beating
with two little ſticks of caſuarina on a bamboo ſix yards long, cleft
throughout its whole length. Three muſicians placed before the others
expreſſed the ſubject of their ſong by action alſo, which no doubt they
had thoroughly ſtudied, for their geſtures were performed all together,
and in the ſame manner. Every now and then they turned toward the
king, making not ungraceful motions with their arms: ſometimes they
bowed their heads quickly, till the chin touched the breaſt, and ſhook
them ſeveral times, &c.
In the mean time Toobou preſented the General with ſome pieces of
ſtuff fabricated with the bark of the paper mulberry tree, cauſing them to
be ſpread abroad with a great deal of oſtentation, that we might be ſen-
ſible of all the value of the gift.
One of his miniſters, who ſat on his right hand, ordered kava to be pre-
pared, and preſently a wooden bowl, of an oval ſhape, and a yard long
(Sec Plate XXXI, Fig. 9), was brought in full of this liquor.
The muſicians, no doubt, had reſerved their choiceſt pieces for this in-
itant; as now, at every pauſe they made, the cry of măli, māli, reſounded
from every quarter, and the reiterated applauſes of the natives informed
us, that this muſic made a very ſtrong and pleaſing impreſſion upon them.
The kava was then diſtributed to the different chiefs, by him who had
given orders for its preparation. He ſent it to them in cups, which were
made on the ſpot with the leaves of the plantain, and every time he of
fered a cup, he pronounced, in a pretty loud voice, the name of him for
whom
APRIL.] OF LA PEROUSE. 35g
whom it was intended. Feenou he ſerved firſt, ſaying mayé maa Feenou;
and he did the ſame to the other chiefs, all whoſe names we could eaſily
pronounce. Some of theſe, perhaps, the reader will not be diſpleaſed to
hear: they were Nufatoa, Fofº, Maff, Famouna, Fatoumonia, &c.
We may preſume, it was neceſſary, that ſome of the chiefs ſhould judge
of the goodneſs of the liquor, before the king drank, for it was not of.
fered to him till it came to the fourth Cup. None was ſent to his daugh-
ters; and indeed it always appeared to us, that this liquor was reſerved
entirely for the men.
. Notwithſtanding the preſence of the General, the king very ſoon fell
aſleep, and ſnered aloud, with his legs croſſed, and his head bowed down
almoſt to his knees. When he awoke, we ſhowed him a drawing of a
cow, and aſked if that given to King Poulaho by Captain Cook had bred.
He knew the animal perfeótly well, which he called boºkka fooſe, and told
us, there were none now at Tongataboo, but there were at Hapace. Se-
veral of the natives, however, aſſured us, imitating at the ſame time tole-
rably well their lowing, that there were ſome at Tongataboo, though
others denied it. Thus we were unable to learn what had become of the
bull and cow, which Captain Cook had left on the iſland ; and it was the
ſame with regard to the horſe and mare, which he had given to Feenou.
Perhaps they were afraid that we ſhould require ſome of theſe animals
from them.
Quitting the aſſembly, we walked toward the eaſt, aſcending a gentle
ſlope. At firſt we paſſed along paths bordered with paliſadoes; but we
ſoon reached the end of theſe, and came to fields of yams fully cropped.
Farther on, the ground, recently turned up, exhibited every appearance of
fertility.
We ſoon reached a delightful ſpot on the top of a little hill, where the
natives had formed a ſort of rotunda, about four yards wide, with pali
ſades, and ſome ſhrubs cut with art. Under this rotunda we ſtill ſaw thc
remains of kava roots, that had been chewed; and round it were twenty-
four ſmall huts, conſtructed in a circle of fifteen or fixteen yards diameter.
Theſe huts were all covered with cocoa leaves, interlaced together; their
* ſhape
. . . . \ .
300 VOYAGE IN SEARC) I | 1793.
ſhape was nearly that of half an oval, three yards iong, by two broad; and
they were divided at the top, throughout their whole length, by a very
narrow ſlit, which was the only opening in them, though there was no
entering without ſeparating its edges. We were informed by ſome of
the natives, who had followed us, that the king frequently came to this
place, to drink Rava, with ſeveral of the chiefs of the iſland, and that then
each went to take a nap in theſe ſort of huts. . -
On returning toward the place of entertainment, we went round the
largeſt circle formed by the natives; in the midſt of which we ſaw ſeveral
egui's wives. The wife of Futtafaihe attracted almoſt every eye by her
beauty; but ſhe took care, from time to time, to acquaint us, that it was
her duty to preſerve her fidelity to her huſband. This ſhe expreſſed with
great ſimplicity, by taboo mitzi mitzi, words of which I cannot give a li-
teral tranſlation, as may be ſeen by the vocabulary of the language of the
Friendly Iſlands, which will be found at the end of this work.
We obſerved in the hands of one lady, who appeared to be of ſome
conſideration, a ſort of mat, about two feet ſquare, and of a white co-
Jour, made of the hair of a horſe's tail. Poſſibly they were obtained
from thoſe which Cook left on the iſland; but ſhe would not ſatisfy our
curioſity on this head. &
The King had ordered his ſubječts to bring the preſents which he in-
tended for the General; and ever ſince half after ten we had ſeen many
arrive at intervals, each of them carrying on his ſhoulder a bamboo two
yards long, at the ends of which hung ſmall fiſhes of the ſcarus and chato-
don gencra, moſt of them ready dreſſed, and wrapped in cocoa-leaves;
others brought bread-fruit, yams, &c.; and preſently, by laying their
bamboos acroſs each other, they raiſed two portions of triangular pyra-
mids, one of them two yards high, the other one yard only. The raw
fiſh already began to ſtink very much.
About one o'clock in the afternoon Toobou went away, without ſay-
ing a word to any perſon. We then left the aſſembly, and were accom-
panied to the place where we landed by Fccnou and Omalai, who or-
dered a whole hog juſt drciſed, ſome fiſh, yams, and bread-fruit, to be
brought
APRIL.] ‘OF LA PEROUSE. 36 I
brought us, and invited us to fit down to our repaſt; but their hog not
being half ready, for ſuch is their uſual mode of cookery, we preferred
going on board to dinner.
They then requeſted us to accept theſe different articles of proviſion,
which they ordered to be carried into our long-boat, while others of the
hatives, in obedience to the orders of Toobou, were filling it with the
eatables taken from the pyramids, that had been creded for our Com-
mander. In a very little time, every thing was ready for our departure,
Our boats having been obliged to puſh off from the ſhore, on account
of the low water, we could not reach them but by croſſing a coral bank
covered with water for more than three hundred paces: but we found
the natives extremely civil ; for, that we might not be wetted, they car-
ried us to ſome rocks juſt above water, to which others came with their
canoes to fetch us, and conveyed us to our boats. -
The men who carried us appeared well ſatisfied with the articles we
gave them for their trouble; but in this ſhort paſſage others contrived to
gain ſtill more, by robbing us at their eaſe, after having crept ſlily be-
hind us, while their countrymen had us on their backs. All theſe pick-
pockets, however, did not mect with equal ſucceſs, for we gave chace to
ſome, whom we forced to reſtore what they had taken.
As ſoon as we got on board, the commanding officer informed us that,
during our abſence, he had cauſed a native to be ſeized, at the moment
when he was going off with ſeveral articles of hardware, which he had
ſtolen between decks; and that Futtafaihe, reprobating the habit of pil-
fering, of which the natives were every day guilty towards us, had affected
to ſay publicly, that the culprit ſhould be puniſhed with death. But this,
they ſoon perceived, was all artifice on the part of the chief: for, as ſoon
as they began to inflićt the puniſhment of the rope's end on the pilferer,
he interceded for his pardon, which, however, was not granted; and
Futtafaihe ſeemed to be greatly affected at his receiving the five-and-
twenty ſtripes, which he had been condemned to ſuffer.
APR II. 2d. Pretty early next morning, we received a viſit from Tonga,
who accompanied his father Toobou, the King's brother. They both took
a great deal of trouble to explain to us all the dignities of their family.
Z z Tºnga
362 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
Tonga ſeveral times gave us proofs of great intelligence, in particular
when we ſhowed him a chart of the Friendly Iſlands conſtructed by
Captain Cook. He firſt glanced his eye rapidly over the archipelago;
and then, ſtopping at Tongataboo, he obſerved to us, that ſeveral reefs of
rocks had been laid down which did not exiſt; informing us that, to
the north-weſt we ſhould find a paſſage, through which we might eaſily
carry our veſſels into the open ſea. This information was the more im-
portant to us, becauſe we had ſuppoſed, that we muſt get out of the road
through the narrow channel by which we had entered; and in which we
ſhould probably have had to work out againſt the prevailing winds, which
would be extremely favourable to our paſſing out through the new chan-
nel. Tonga offered to ſhow it us, and would ſleep on board that night,
to condućt to it Citizen Beaupré, our engineer-geographer, who would
aſcertain its poſition.
On an excurſion we made into the country neareſt the anchoring place,
we found among a group of the natives a young perſon, who had all the
charaćteriſtics of an albino, and who was in other reſpects of a very
ickly complexion, as is commonly the caſe, for this deviation from na-
ture is owing to a ſtate of diſeaſe.
3d. In the morning of the third, having ſurpriſed ſome of the na-
tives, who were making off to the coaſt of Tongataboo with ſome
articles, which they had juſt ſtolen from our ſhip, the commanding of-
ficer ſent ſome of our people in purſuit of them; when onc of the party,
who had cauſed himſelf to be announced as a chicf, ſaid, that he would
puniſh them himſelf, and would bring us the next day the things that
had been ſtolen. But it appeared, that he was connected with the
thicves, for he took care never to return on board again.
When we went aſhore, Omalai accompanicq us, and admired the boat's
rudder for a long time. He was deſirous of ſteering himſelf, and did ſo
with great ſkill. Theſe peoplc uſe nothing but paddles for ſteering their
C3 IAOCS.
The ladies, in dreſſing their hair, made uſe of cocoa-nut oil, previ-
ouſly perfumed with a ſmall ſeed, which they call langa kali, and which
is gathered on the iſland of Tongataboo. On examining a little of the
oil,
-
cºw %. //, /º/, %. */ - Z/, wº
awºrºwº rºw-

APRIL.] OF LA PEROUSE. . . 303
oil, we obſerved, that ſome of the bruiſed nut, which in their language is
called mott, was mixed with it. They cxpoſed the nuts to the ſºn, after
having ſpread them on mats, in order to dry them, before they preſs out
the oil, with which the women anoint the upper parts of the body, no
doubt to preſerve the ſuppleneſs of the ſkin, and to prevent too Copious
perſpiration. They preſerve the oil in the ſecdpod of the melodimus ſºon-
dens, after having taken out the ſeed. When we bought ſome of theſe
little phials, a repreſentation of which may be ſecn in Plate XXXI, Fig.
14, we frequently threw away the oil, left it ſhould run out in our
pockets; but the women, ſeeing us with regret waſte an article which
they much value, commonly came forward to receive it on their heads,
and then, with thcir hands, they ſpread it over their ſhoulders and arms.
The natives had already ſold us a great number of clubs of various
forms, and faſhioned with ſkill, as may be ſeen in Plate XXXIII: and
we ſaw ſeveral who were employed in cutting out others with ſhark's
teeth fixed at the extremity of a piece of wood (Pl. XXXII, Fig. 23).
‘We were aſtoniſhed to ſee them cut with a chiſel like this the wood of
the caſuarina, notwithſtanding its extreme hardneſs. Others already
handled the iron tools they had obtained from us with conſiderable dex-
terity. All theſe workmen had a little bag of matting, containing pu-
mice-ſtones, with which they poliſhed their work.
I obſerved ſeveral cotton-plants of the ſpecies called goſſipium religi-
oſium, growing in uncultivated places; and I ſaw, with ſurpriſe, that the
fine cotton, which might be procured from it in abundance, was not uſed
by the natives in any of their works.
About nine in the evening we perceived a canoe cloſe by one of our
buoys. Apprehenſive that the people in her would cut the buoy-rope,
we ſent one of our boats in chace of her; but the boat had ſcarcely put
off from the ſhip's ſide, when ſomebody was heard to fall into the water.
Our men immediately haſtened to the perſon's aſſiſtance; when ſeeing
him ſwim away, without ſpeaking a word, we had no doubt but it was
a thief making-off with his booty. He was purſued immediately, fre-
quently eſcaped by diving, and was not taken at laſt till he had been
Z z º. wounded
364 V OYAGE IN SEARCH [ 179 3.
wounded in the thigh with a boat-hook, which was employed to catch.
hold of him. As ſoon as he was brought on board, he was ſecured upon
deck, where he remained all night. He confeſſed that, having taken ſe-
veral things out of our launch, he had conveyed them to the canoe, which
was in waiting for them near our buoy, and had made off without delay.
In half an hour afterwards, we fancied we ſaw her ſlowly approaching our
ſhip aftern, in ſearch of the native whom we had ſeized. The men in
our yawl immediately pulled away toward her, and when they came up
with her, they found in her only one man and two paddles: but they
ſoon diſcovered that ſhe had brought us another thief, who had roamed
about the ſhip till the arrival of another canoe, that came to convey him.
aſhore. As ſoon as our people got ſight of her, they gave her chace, but
the natives in her paddled away with ſuch ſpeed, that it was impoſſible to
overtake them.
4th. At three o'clock in the morning Citizen Beaupré returned with
Tonga, after having examined the paſſage toward the north-weſt, of
which Tonga had given us information. They had run along very cloſe
to Attata, which they had left on the larboard, as they ſailed from our
anchorage. Kepa, the chief of this little iſland, had come to meet
them, and received them with great civility. In the morning he came
to ſee us, and inquired after Captain Cook, who, he told us, was his
friend. On being informed of his death, he could not refrain from tears,
and took out of his girdle a ſhark's tooth, with which he was going to
wound his cheeks, in order to expreſs the violence of his grief, if we had
not prevented him.
The art of phyſic is practiſed among thoſe people with a parade of
myſtery. One of our crew, who had accompanied us along the beach,
having hurt his wriſt by an exertion, a native offered to eaſe the pain, and
ſucceeded pretty quickly by ſqueezing and preſſing the part injured, (en
maſſant la partie bleſsée); at the ſame time he blew upon it repeatedly,
intending, no doubt, that we ſhould aſcribe the cure to his breath.
On the ſea-ſide we ſaw ſeveral natives occupied in ſquaring ſome large
ſtones of the calcareous kind, which, we were informed, were intended
to
APRIL.] OF LA PEROUSE. 365
to be employed in burying a chief, who was related to Futtaſaihe. They
firſt removed the earth from them, and then ſeparated them by breaking
them with a volcanic pebble, round which, near the middle, they took
the precaution to wrap pieces of matting, to prevent the ſplinters from
flying into their eyes. They were ſcarcely below the ſurface of the earth,
and arranged in ſtrata about four inches thick.
We had before obſerved among theſe people a game with the hands,
which they call leagui, and which requires great attention. Two play at
it, and it conſiſts in one's endeavouring inſtantly to repeat the ſigns made
by the other, while the former makes ſigns in his turn, which the other is
to repeat in like manner. We ſaw two in a party at no great diſtance
from our market, who were ſo quick at this exerciſe, that our eyes were
ſcarcely able to follow their motions. tºy
Citizen Legrand, who had been ſent the day before to diſcover ſome
paſſages to leeward of our anchorage, returned in the evening, after hay-
ing found two towards the north.
5th. Early in the morning I ſet off, with all the other naturaliſts of our
expedition, for the iſland of Tongataboo. Some of the natives would carry
us thither in their little canoes, but moſt of us, not being ſufficiently
careful in preſerving our equilibrium, upſet them as ſoon as they put off.
We then determined to go in their double canoes, which they managed
very ſkilfully, and ſoon ſet us aſhore, making the paſſage under ſail. The
maſt was ſet up in that canoe which was to leeward.
We were obliged to get out of the canoes more than ſix hundred
paces from the ſhore, on account of the ſhallowneſs of the water, through
which the natives carried us on their backs. They then ſhowed us the
dwelling of Toobou, the king's brother, where we ſtopped; and the gar-
dener made him a preſent of ſeveral kinds of feeds, that were brought
from Europe, chiefly of culinary vegetables, which the chief promiſed
us to cultivate with care. We left him, to ſtrike into the woods,
the ſoil of which was of a calcareous nature ; and we obſerved in
different places heaps of madreporcs, which proved that the waters of the
ſea had long covered the ground. On the trees we obſerved many large
bats,
366 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
bats, of the ſpecies called veſpertilio vampyrus (the vampire bat), which
the inhabitants told us were very good food.
We were near the middle of the wood, when a native, who had crept
behind one of our party, ſnatched out of his hands a pair of pincers, which
he uſed for catching inſects. The thief inſtantly took to his heels; but
he had ſcarcely run fourſcore paces, when, finding himſelf briſkly and
cloſely purſued, he placed himſelf behind a tree, round which he turned
ſeveral times, to avoid being caught. Our companion, however, laid
hold of his clothes, and fancied himſelf on the point of recovering his
pincers, as he imagined he had the thief faſt : but what was his ſurpriſe,
when the other looſened his girdle, and left his clothes behind him, to
eſcape with the article he had ſtolen
We ſoon got into the fields, where we ſaw the property of each indivi-
dual divided into ſmall encloſures, ſurrounded by paliſades, and completely
eultivated. The Indian cole, arum eſculentum, grew there vigorouſly
among many other vegetables, which I have already mentioned, and
which equally with it are uſed as food by the natives. The ſugar-canes
we ſaw there, were planted at a pretty conſiderable diſtance from each
other, under the ſhade of the inocarpus edulis, the fruit of which theſe
people roaſt and eat, its flavour much reſembling that of the cheſnut. In
the ſame cncloſure, we ſaw ſeveral of the orange-leaved Indian mulberry
trees (morinda citrifolia), loaded with ripe fruit, which is much eſteemed
by the natives. They brought us a great quantity of this fruit for a few
days when we firſt anchored here, but we refuſed it on account of its in-
ſipidity.
Aftcr procceding ſome way to the eaſtward, wc ſtopped, to examine
two little huts, erected in an encloſure of ſmall extent, and ſhadowed by
ſome fine ſhaddock trees, loaded with fruit, and ſeveral caſuarina trees.
Some natives informed us, that the remains of two chiefs of Toobou's
family had been depoſited in them. We lifted up the mat, which
cloſed the entrance of the larger. The ſurface of the ground within
was covered with ſand, and toward the middle we obſerved an oblong
ſquare, formed of ſmall pebbles of different colours. None of the natives
- who
2
\s-
º
O
C


APRIL.] . OF LA PEROUSE. 367
who were with us, would gather any of the ſhaddocks, no doubt from
reſpect to the dead, though we deſired to buy ſome of them. They ſaid
that they could not ſell them to us.
In a ſhort time we returned to the houſe of Toobou, to whom we made
a complaint againſt the ſtealer of the pincers. He promiſed to return
them to us the next day; and he kept his word. This chief preſſed us
to ſpend the night in his habitation; but we would not accept his offer,
left our abſence ſhould occaſion any uneaſineſs on board.
Theſe people are accuſtomed to geld their pigs, with a view to render
the fleſh more delicate. We ſaw this operation performed on a very
young pig, which one of the natives laid on the back, after having tied
his legs, while another made an inciſion into the ſcrotum with the edge
of a piece of bamboo, and removed the teſticles, ſeparating them from
the parts to which they adhered, with all the dexterity of an anatomiſt.
Toobou treated us with fowls broiled on the coals; yams, plantains,
and bread-fruit, roaſted under the aſhes; and the liquor of the cocoa-nut
to drink.
Three of the daughters of this chief came to keep us company. They
talked a great deal; and though we were very hungry, they did not ſcruple
to interrupt us frequently, by forcing us to anſwer their queſtions, which re-
lated chiefly to the cuſtoms of the French, particularly thoſe of the women.
As they obſerved our ſeamen addreſs every one indiſcriminately, they en-
quired with earneſtneſs, whether the women were not tabooed in France;
that is to ſay, whether they enjoyed the ſame liberty as moſt of thoſe in
their iſland. The anſwer, by which we endeavoured to convey to them
an idea of our cuſtoms, pleaſed them highly. They informed us, that
the guis (chiefs) of Tongataboo had ſeveral wives; and aſked how many
wives a French gui uſually had. When they underſtood that each had
but one, they burſt out into a laugh; and we had great trouble to per-
ſuade them, that the egui lai (kings) of Europe, had no more, which
gave them no very high idea of their power.
Of all the articles with which we preſented the ladies, odoriferous
waters were moſt eſteemed. They appeared to us as paſſionately fond of
perfumes,
368 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
&‘.-
perfumes, as moſt of the inhabitants of warm climates: and yet their bodies
were partly beſmeared with cocoa-nut oil, which diffuſed a diſagreeable
odour.
One of the fineſt girls in this party having the little finger of the left
hand wrapped round with a piece of ſtuff of the paper mulberry, which
appeared bloody, we begged to ſee the wound. Another immediately
took down from the roof, under which we ſat, a pice of a plantain leaf,
out of which ſhe drew the firſt two joints of the little finger of the young
girl, who had them very lately cut off, in order to cure her, as ſhe told
us, of a ſevere diſeaſe. She ſhowed us the hatchet, made of a volcanic
ſtone, which had been uſed for the operation; and informed us, that the
edge had firſt been placed at the extremity of the third phalanx of the
finger, and then the operator ſtruck a ſmart blow on the head of this
hatchet with the handle of another. -
This young perſon ſoon left us; but, before ſhe went away, ſhe kiſſed
Toobou's daughters after the manner of the inhabitants of the Friendly
iſlands, which is by touching with the tip of the noſe the noſe of the per-
ſon you ſalute. It is remarkable, that theſe iſlanders, who pretty much
reſemble-Europeans, have, notwithſtanding, the extremity of the noſe a
little flattened: this ſlight deformity may very probably be owing to the
cuſtom, of which I have juſt ſpoken.
Toobou's daughters changed names with us; an eſtabliſhed cuſton,
among theſe people, to teſtify their affection. They then played a very
monotonous duet on flutes made of bamboo : but we were much amuſed
at ſeeing them blow with the noſe into a hole at the extremity of the in-
ſtrument, in order to make it ſound. We received from them as a preſent
ſome combs of a very elegant ſhape, repreſented in Plate XXXII. Fig. 21.
The natives, who formed a circle round us, having ſtolen ſeveral of our
things, we complained of it to Toobou's daughters, who ſoon after left us
without ſaying a word, probably to go in ſearch of their father, and re-
queſt him to come and put an end to theſe pilferings; but, as we could
not wait till their return, we ſoon began to walk toward the iſland of
Panga'imotoo. The tide being very low, we eaſily paſſed over the ſhoals,
which
A PRIL. OF LA PEROUSE, 369
which connect the iſlets with the principal iſland. We ſtopped about
half way at a hut, where we were witneſſes of the manner, in which a
woman was eating her meal, that appeared to us laughable enough. Sit-
ting near a poſt, and motionleſs as a ſtatue, ſhe opened her mouth from
time to time, to receive morſels of bread-fruit, which another woman put
into it. We were informed, that it was not allowable for her to touch
any kind of food with her own hands, becauſe a few days before ſhe had
waſhed the body of a deceaſed chief. *
When we arrived at Panga'imotoo, Queen Tiné, fitting under a ſhed
covered with cocoa-leaves, and erected under the ſhade of ſeveral fine
bread-fruit trees, was giving an entertainment to General Dentrecaſteaux.
She firſt ordered ſome young perſons of her attendants to dance, which
they did with infinite gracefulneſs, ſinging at the ſame time, while Futta-
faihe, who was ſtanding, directed their movements, and animated them
by his voice and geſtures. (See Plate XXVII.)
After this we had a grand concert, which differed little from that the
King had given us a few days before, only on the preſent occaſion the ex-
preſſion of joy was much more lively.
The Queen was ſurrounded by women, while a great number of men
kept at a little diſtance oppoſite to her, forming a circle round the muſi-
cians.
When the women had ceaſed dancing, ſeveral men roſe up, each hold-
ing in his hand a little club, nearly of the ſhape of a paddle. Theſe they
brandiſhed about, keeping time with much preciſion, and making dif-
ferent movements with their feet. The muſicians, after they had ſung
ſome tunes in very ſlow time, ſung often very quick, which gave this fort
of pyrrhic dance a very animated action, that we admired for a long
while. The ſubjećt of this dance excited our curioſity ; but we ſoon
found, that its objećt was to celebrate the great deeds of fore of their
warriors. The women occaſionally united their voices with thoſe of the
men, accompanying thcir ſong with very graceful movements.
One of the armourers of the Eſperance was much ſurprized to ſee aimong
theſe dancers, and not far from Futtafaihe, the native who had ſtolen his
3 A ſabre :
37 O voyage IN SEARCH [1793.
ſabre; this chief having always aſſured us that he could never find out the
thief. It appeared to us, however, that it was one of his attendants:
but he retired with precipitation as ſoon as he perceived that he was
known. . •
During this time a pyramid of bamboos had been erected, to which
were fuſpended different fruits, deſigned as a preſent to the General from
Queen Tiné.
We expreſſed a ſtrong deſire to ſee ſome of the natives engage in a
wreſtling match; but we were told that a ſpectacle of this ſort was never
exhibited before the Queen.
This entertainment had attracted a great number of the natives,
among whom were ſeveral thieves, whoſe impudence was continually in-
creaſing. They had already taken ſeveral articles from ſome or other of
us by open force, and run off with them into the woods.
More than thirty of us were aſſembled together, and we were quench-
ing our thirſt with the delicious liquor of the cocoa-nuts, which Tiné had
juſt preſented to the General, when a native had the audacity to ſnatch a
knife out of one of our hands. Indignant at ſuch effrontery, ſeveral of our
party immediately ran after the thief, and purſued him as far as the iſland
of Tongataboo ; but, finding themſelves ſurrounded by a great number
of the natives, they preſently returned toward our anchoring place. The
ſmith of the Recherche, however, a German by birth, thought it was proper
to ſhow more courage than the reſt, by venturing farther and farther among
the natives. Theſe ſoon faced about, purſued him in their turn, as ſoon as
they found him inclined to make off, and even attempted to ſtrike him
with their clubs: but he kept them at bay a long time, by preſenting to
the moſt forward a bad piſtol, which he ſeveral times attempted to fire.
Being now about ſeven hundred yards only from our ſhips, he fancied
himſelf ſecure from any attempt on their part, when one of them laid
open his ſkull with a club, and another threw a ſpear at his back. A
great number of them fell upon him, and continued their blows till they
thought he was dead. One of them tried repeatedly to ſhoot him with
his own piſtol, which they had ſeized, but fortunately the priming was gone.
- They
APRIL.] OF LA PEROUSE. ‘;7 )
They were already dividing his clothes, when they were obſerved from the
Eſperance, and a cannon was immediately fired, the ball of which paſſed
very near the aſſaſſins, and quickly diſperſed them. We ran from all
quarters to the affiſtance of the unfortunate ſmith. One of the crew,
having come along the beach to his ſuccour, was attacked by a native,
who knocked out two of his teeth with his club ; but the aſſault coſt him
his life, for he was inſtantly ſhot dead. Our ſmith was ſoon raiſed from
the ground, and, though his head was laid open at the left frontal ſinus to
a conſiderable extent, and he had other very dangerous wounds, he had
ſtill ſufficient courage to walk to the boat, ſupported only by the arms.
A few guns loaded with langrage were fired, to protect ſuch of us as
were on ſhore. The natives fled on all ſides, and collected in very nume-
rous bodies in different parts of the iſland : and, to endeavour to diſperſe
them, and to bring off thoſe of our people, who were ſtill in the interior
of the iſland, a detachment was ſent on ſhore well armed.
Several chiefs, aſſembled cloſe by our market with ſome of us, were
riſing to depart; but they yielded to our invitation not to quit the place.
Preſently we ſaw a launch manned and armed coming from the
Eſperance, under the command of Trobriant, her Firſt-Lieutenant.
Knowing very little of the occaſion of the alarm, and ſuppoſing that all
the natives were preparing to fall upon us, he ordered his party to ſeize
upon a double canoe, juſt as ſhe was coming to the ſhore, totally ignorant of
all that had paſſed. Moſt of the natives in her immediately leaped into the
ſea; but the chief, to whom ſhe belonged, remaining on the deck, Tro-
briant ſent one of the crew to ſeize him. On his attempting to ſtrike the
chief with a club the chief diſarmed him ; they laid hold of each other .
and Trobriant thought proper to fire on the chief, whom he ſhot dead,
We were all extremely grieved at this misfortune.
Another native, witneſſing what paſſed, leaped from the canoe's maſt-
head into the ſea, not daring to come down upon deck : and immedi-
ately a negro, whom we had taken on board at Amboyna. purſued him
with a pike, which he had in his hand, but fortunately could not overtake
him.
3 A 2 The
37.2 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
The rage of theſe barbarians was not yet appeaſed. A marine, by birth
a German, whom likewiſe we ſhipped at Amboyna, perceiving the
daughter of the unfortunate chief, who had concealed herſelf in the bot-
tom of the canoe, had already raiſed his ſabre to run her through, when a
gunner belonging to the Recherche, Citizen Avignon, caught hold of the
madman's arm. He then threw himſelf between him and the poor girl,
whoſe mother ſoon gained the ſhore, diſtraćted at the death of her huſ-
band. The daughter, too, wept bitterly for the loſs of her father, and
we ſaw her beating herſelf violently with the fiſt on the cheeks and breaſt.
We detained as hoſtages the ſon of the king, and Titifu, chief of the
iſland of Pangaïmotoo : but we all remarked with ſorrow, the dejećtion
into which this confinement threw the king's ſon, whom we had often
ſeen iſſue his commands with ſuch haughtineſs to the ſubjećts of his fa-
ther. He frequently repeated that he was our friend, and that he could
wiſh to accompany us to France. Titifa, on the contrary, expreſſed not
the leaſt fear. • t
Theſe two chiefs ſpent the night in the great cabin of the Recherche.
Each had brought with him a wooden pillow, of the ſhape of that repre-
ſented in Plate XXXIII. Fig. 35, on which, after lying down, they laid the
back part of their head, according to the cuſtom of theſe people, which is
no doubt the cauſe of the very perceptible flattening obſerved in that
part. - f
During the night we ſaw a greater number of fires on the north coaſt
of Tongataboo, than we had ever perceived before.
The next morning at day-break we were awakened by the piercing cries
of two women, who were making their lamentations, as they went round
our ſhip in their canoe. They cried alternately one after the other, no
doubt that their voices might be diſtinguiſhed by Titifa, who knew them
immediately. Theſe women were his wife and daughter, who, in their
grief, beat their cheeks and breaſt with their fiſts. He immediately ran
upon deck, but could not quiet their alarm, till he had given them an ac-
count of the good treatment he had received on board; and when he
told them that he ſhould ſoon return on ſhore, they were tranſported
with
arriſ.J. OF LA PEROUSE. 373
with joy. A ſhort time after he and King Toobou's ſon were both
ſent aſhore in our barge, to the Iſland of Pangaïmotoo. The wife and .
daughter of Titifa followed us in their canoe, when, as they were paſſing
cloſe by the Eſperance, a blunderbuſs went off by accident, and hit their
canoe, which they were obliged to quit, as in conſequence ſhe preſently
filled. We took them into our boat, and expreſſed our great ſorrow at
this miſchance; but they ſoon forgot the danger they had run, for they
were with Titifa, and thought of nothing more but the pleaſure of ſeeing
him ſet at liberty. We made thern a preſent of a few articles of hard-
ware, among which a hatchet gave them great ſatisfaction. Titifa told
us, he ſhould employ this in conſtructing another canoe, ſo that he ſhould
ſoon repair the loſs he had juſt experienced. *
When we landed, moſt of the natives retired from the ſhore, and were
proceeding into the interior part of the iſland: but Titiſa deſired them to
return, and ordered them to range themſelves in a circle, which they im-
mediately did. Our trade then recommenced with the greateſt order
imaginable. This chief would not quit us the whole time ; but Toobou's
ſon diſappeared as ſoon as he ſet his foot on ſhore.
The chief, who had been killed the day before by Trobriant, appearcd
to be greatly loved by the natives, for ſeveral diſplayed much ſenſibility in
lamenting his death.
For fear they ſhould endeavour to make repriſals on us, the General
ordered every perſon belonging to our ſhips, to remain within the place
where the trade was carried on.
Our ſhips were ſufficiently ſtocked with all ſuch proviſion as theſe
people could furnith. As we had now nothing more to apprehend from
the conſequences of competition, ſome articles of hardware were diſtri-
buted among the crew, that they might procure a few things for them-
ſelves. On this the natives raiſed their demands for their goods to a very
high price, frequently aſking ten times as much as before they had been
contented to take.
We ſaw in their poſſeſſion an iron hook, which they had had ſkill
cnough to form like thoſe which they fabricate of bone, tortoiſe-ſhell,
mother-
374 VOYAGE IN SEARCH ſ ſl?93.
mother-of-pearl, and other animal ſubſtances, the figure of which may be
ſeen in Plate XXXII, Fig. 27 and 28. The line, to which it was fixed,
was intended, undoubtedly, to fiſh in very deep water, for a pretty large
piece of alabaſter, cut into a conical ſhape, was faſtened to it. (See Plate
XXXII, Fig. 25 and 26). --
Titifa and ſeveral other chiefs were not without anxiety, on account of
the hoſtile intentions of ſome of the natives toward us. They imparted
to us their apprehenſions, and perſuaded us to return on board before the
cloſe of the day; their authority, no doubt, being inſufficient to control
them.
At night-fall we perceived, that our rudder chains had been taken
away. $ - 3. w
7th. We obſerved on ſhore ſeveral young girls, who had cut their hair
to the length of an inch, except round the head, and afterwards powdered
it with lime, for the purpoſe, we were told, of making it grow of a light
colour. We ſaw ſeveral others, whoſe hair was of this complexion al-
ready.
Moſt of the women did not defiſt from aſking us for glaſs rings and
beads, with which they adorned themſelves, as ſoon as they obtained them.
Their requeſt was always accompanied with a pleaſing ſmile, and at the
ſame time they inclined their head, laying one of their hands on the breaſt,
in the manner repreſented Plate XXX, Fig. 1.
Titifa brought us ſome nutmegs, which were tolerably round, and as
large again as thoſe of the cultivated nutmeg, but they were deſtitute of
aromatic flavour. The mace was covered with a pretty thick down.
The natives, obſerving we received theſe with pleaſure, quickly brought
llS II) OIC. l -
Theſe people have invented a kind of flute, differing from that called
in Europe Pan's reed only in the proportion of the tones. All the pipes
gave full notes, and of little extent; and the higheſt is a fourth to the
loweſt. We purchaſed ſeveral of theſe flutes.
I obtained of our Commander a large box, to hold ſome young bread-
fruit plants, for the purpoſe of enriching our colonies with that uſeful ve-
gctable;
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APRIL.] OF LA PEROUSE. - 375
getable; and it was placed upon the larboard quarter gallery. Some of
the natives procured me a great number of ſuckers, and I planted them
in very good mould, which they brought me, and which they called kele.
kelé. I alſo took ſome roots and cuttings of this valuable tree, which I
buried in loam, oummea in their language, placing them horizontally.
Theſe cuttings were ſo many ſhoots, which I intended to plant on our
arrival at the Iſle of France.
8th. Queen Tiné came on board, juſt as Feenou was in the cabin
with the General, to whom he had brought as a preſent a diadem, made
with the beautiful red feathers of the tropic-bird, with ſome other very
finall feathers of a brilliant red colour. When he went out of the
cabin, to return aſhore, he endeavoured to avoid the fight of the queen ;
but the moment ſhe perceived him, ſhe made him come to her, and held
out to him her right foot, which he took hold of immediately, and placed
on the hind part of his head, making a profound bow, in teſtimony of
the reſpect he owed the queen. He dared not refuſe her theſe honours,
though it appeared to us, that he was deeply affected by it. The Ge-
neral had juſt made him a preſent of ſeveral iron tools, and we obſerved
with pleaſure, that he appeared to know the value of this metal, giving
it a very decided preference to the bones and volcanic ſtones, of which
moſt of the hatchets of theſe iſlanders are made. -
We were afterwards viſited by different chiefs, who repeated to us,
what ſeveral others had already informed us, reſpecting the reigning fa-
mily. They employed for the purpoſe playing cards, with which we
furniſhed them. Theſe they firſt ſpread on the table, and then they aſ-
ſigned to each the name of one of the perſons of the family; which did
not appear to us to bear one common furname, as Captain Cook ima-
gined (that of Futtafaihe, at preſent the name of the ſon of Poulaho);
for Poulaho's father was named Taiboulouſou. Taibouloutou married a
wife, whoſe name was Toobouhou, by whom he had ſour children; two
ſons, Poulaho, who ſucceeded him, and Futſafaihe ; and two daughters,
the one named Tiné, the other Namatchi. When Poulaho died, he left
a ſon very young, named Futtaſaihe, whoſe uncle then took into his hands
* } the
376 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
the reins of government: but he did not long ſurvive his brother, and
then the ſovereignty devolved upon Tiné, the elder ſiſter. She held all
the honours of it, without exerciſing the authority, however; with which
it appears a female cannot be inveſted: the power, therefore, paſſed into
the hand of a chief named Toobou, brother to Timé's mother. This
queen had married Ovea, one of the chiefs of Tofoa; and he had divorced
her, after having had two ſons by her, Pedicon, and Veatchi.
Thus it apppears, that the ſucceſſion to the throne devolves firſt on the
brothers, then on the ſiſters, of the prince who has reigned, before it
comes to his ſons; and when a woman ſucceds to the royal title, the
ſovereign authority is exerciſed by one of her mother's neareſt relations,
though only during the life of the queen. The family of Toobou will
retain the power during the reign of Tiné; and Futtafaihe, the ſon of
Poulaho, will not aſcend the throne, till after the death of both his aunts.
The royal family, at this time diveſted of the ſovereign power, neverthe-
leſs enjoyed the regal honours, and even received the homage of thoſe,
by whom the authority was exerciſed, as we obſerved on ſeveral occa-
fions.
Iſouacécé, one of the chiefs of Feejee, had arrived at Tongataboo, ſoon
after we anchored there. We were frequently viſited by him, and he
affirmed to us, what he had ſaid ſeveral times, that it would take him
three days ſailing, in his double canoe, with a ſouth-eaſt wind, to reach
Feejee, the ſituation of which he pointed out to the north-weſt. Hence
we reckoned, that this iſland, which is very lofty, and of the fertility of
which he boaſtcq much, was about a hundred and fifty leagues from
Tongataboo. This is an immenſe voyage for people, who, having no
inſtruments, ſteer only by obſerving the ſun and ſtars with the naked eye,
as ſoon as they are out of ſight of land: but it is ſtill more difficult to
conceive, how they can reach Tongataboo from ſuch a diſtance, when they
have to work up againſt the ſouth-eaſt winds; and they muſt be very
ſure of their marks in the hcavens, not to miſs the land, after being
obliged to ply to windward, as they are ſometimes, for more than a
month.
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APRIL.] • OF LA PEROUSE 377
... The people of Tongataboo informed us, that the natives of the Feejee
Iſlands were cannibals; but Vouacécé endeavoured to exculpate himſelf
from this accuſation, by aſſuring us, that the lower claſs of people only,
£he touas, ate human fleſh. It appeared to us, however, from what we
learned on other occaſions, that the chiefs ate it likewiſe: indeed, as
theſe people eat their enemies only, and commit this ſavage ačt ſolely to
-glut their rage, it may be preſumed the people of Tongataboo did not
impoſe upon us when they aſſured us that the Feejee chiefs themſelves
were cannibals. . . . . . .
Unqueſtionably the reader will be aſtoniſhed to hear, that, notwith-
ftanding this mark of ferociouſneſs, the arts are much farther advanced
at Feejee than at the Friendly Iſlands; the inhabitants of which never
failed to inform us that the fineſt articles they ſold us came from Feejee,
being careful to give us to underſtand that they were very decidedly ſu-
perior to thoſe which they fabricated themſelves.
Vouacécé diſplayed much greater deſire of acquiring knowledge than
any native of the Friendly Iſlands, moſt of whom viſited us ſolely from
motives of intereſt, and examined all parts of our ſhip with the greateſt
attention. He was very well made, and his phyſiognomy was ſtrikingly
cxpreſſive of charaćter (ſee Plate XXIX. Fig. 2). His hair, on the fore-
part of the head, was ornamented with red powder.
The natives of Feejee are frequently at war with thoſe of Tongataboo:
but, as ſoon as hoſtilities are at an end, a great trade is carried on be-
tween them.
The General received as a preſent from Futtafaihe a little canoe with
an out-rigger, which was immediately ſtowed near the main-chains. It
was near ten feet long, a foot wide, and capable of carrying only two
perſons. Theſe canoes are decked for about a fifth part of their length
at each end, which is ſufficient for then to navigate with ſecurity within
the reefs; but their double canoes, being intended for the open ſea, are
decked throughout their whole length, except toward the middle, where
a little opening is left for a man to go down and bale cºat the water
when it is neceſſary.
3 B * I ſaw
37.8 VOYAGE IN SEARCH -- [1793.
I ſaw with admiration that theſe people had conſulted nature in con-
ſtructing their canoes for fpeed. The bottom nearly reſembles the under
part of a fiſh of the cetaceous kind, which ſwims with the greateſt
fwiftneſs, darting along by bounds on the ſurface 6f the water, the del-
phinus delphis, the dolphin.
9th. King Toobou having heard that we were ſoon to quit the iſland,
came to intreat us to poſtpone our departure, and appeared extremely
ſorry when he found us determined to go.
The natives imagined, no doubt, that we wiſhed to lay in a great ſtock
of bread-fruit, for they brought much more than uſual to our market:
but this fruit would not keep long without rotting, unleſs we had cut it
into ſlices and dried it, or fermented it, as the natives do, much in the
fame manner as is done in Europe with ſeveral ſpecies of culinary vege-
tables. Ever ſince we had been at anchor we had ſufficient for our daily
conſumption: and we ate it with pleaſure, relinquiſhing for it without
regret our biſcuit, and even the ſmall allowance of freſh bread, which
was uſually ſerved out to us every day, though this was of a very good
quality. We preferred the bread-fruit to yams; but the natives, who
came to dine with us, ſeemed to eat them almoſt indiſcriminately. Our
cook commonly boiled it for us; yet it would have taſted much better
had he taken the trouble to bake it in the oven. \
This fruit is nearly of an oval ſhape, about a foot long, and eight
inches thick. The whole is eatable, except a very thin rind, with which
it is covered, and a ſmall portion at the centre, where the cells termi-
nate. Theſe contain no ſeeds, but are full of a very nutritious pulp,
taſy of digeſtion, ſufficiently agreeable to the taſte, and which we always
ate with freſh pleaſure.
During eight months of the year this trec produces its fruits, which,
ripening one after another, thus afford the natives an abundance of
wholeſome food. I ſhall not deſcribe it here, as this has been donc al-
ready by ſkilful botaniſts. The want of ſeeds, no doubt, ariſes from
propagating the tree by ſuckers; and in this reſpcét it differs remarkably
from the wild ſpecies, the fruit of which is much ſmaller, not very nume-
rous, and full of large kerncls, which are difficult of digeſtion.
APRIL.] OF LA PEROUSE. 379
The natives brought us a few bits of yellow ſanders, and to render its
frnell more powerful, they took care to rub it ſtrongly with a raſp made
of the ſkin of the ray, ſuch as is repreſented in Plate XXXII. Fig. 24.
They told us, that they procured it from the Feejee Iſlands, whence they
call it haî-feejee : and they ſaid that they had frequently endeavoured to
tranſplant ſome of the trees to their own iſland, but they could not ſuc-
•ceed. ..
. The canoes round our ſhip left us when night was coming on, return-
ing to the neareſt part of the ſhore, as was cuſtomary ; and our men
were ſtill very merry, when the young women, who had found means to
get between decks, gave them notice of their departure, ſaying to them
aloud, bongui bongui, mitzi mitzi. Theſe words I ſhall not attempt to
tranſlate; but from the vocabulary of the language of theſe people, given
toward the end of the preſent work, it may be ſeen, that the girls were
not aſhamed to publiſh what had paſſed between them and the crew, at
the ſame time that they promiſed them to come again the next day.
Early the next morning ſeveral chiefs came to ſee us, and announced
to the natives, who were already aſſembled round our veſſel in their ca-
noes, that we were on the point of quitting their iſland: when we were
much ſurpriſed to ſee a number of young women immediately falling
into tears, and uttering piercing cries. No doubt their ſorrow was very
acute, but it was of ſhort duration; for ſoon after we ſaw them merry
enough with their companions.
Futtafaihe requeſted us to ſharpen for him a couple of hatchets, which
had been given him by Captain Cook, and which he had had reſorged
on board the Eſperance. This chief was accompanied by his wife, who
amuſed herſelf a long while by playing with a ſort of cup and ball, in-
vented by theſe iſlanders. This toy conſiſted of a ball of wood, which
ſhe threw up into the air, and then endcavoured to let fall through a
very ſmall ſemicircle of ſhell, to which the ball was faſtened by means of
a long ſtring. We were admiring her addreſs, when Futtafailhe, ſeized
with a fit of jealouſy at ſeeing in her hands ſome preſents which ſhe had
uſt received from one of our officers, began to abuſe her; and though
3 B 2 his
380 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793. ,
his ſuſpicions were without foundation, ſhe had a great deal of difficulty .
to perſuade him of his miſtake. This chief was with his father-in-law.
We made them ſome preſents juſt as the ſon of king Toobou arrived,
and they immediately hid them in their girdles: but Toobou perceived
it, and we had ſoon a freſh proof that if the royal family enjoyed the ho-
nours of ſovereignty, the family of Toobou reaped all its profits. Too-
bou ſearched the girdles of the two chiefs, and ſeized every thing they
had juſt received. Futtafaihe had no other means of revenge but by
preventing his eating in his preſence, not ſuffering him to fit by his ſide,
and placing his foot on his head : accordingly he preſented his foot to
him ſoon after, and Toobou paid him the homage due to a perſon of .
ſuperior rank. . . . .
We had many times ſeen the chiefs openly taking to themſelves things
that belonged to people of the lower claſs; and we always remarked
with ſurpriſe that this ſpecies of oppreſſion by no means diminiſhed the
unalterable gaiety of their diſpoſitions. When they were aſſembled to-
gether, you would hear them every moment burſt out into great peals of
laughter. Their government appeared to us, as it did to Captain Cook,
to have a conſiderable affinity to the feudal ſyſtem.
Several natives requeſted to embark with us, in order to accompany
us to France; and Captain Huon allotted a birth on board the Eſperance
to Ková, a ſon of the queen. This chief, to convince us that he was
prompted only by the wiſh to accompany us, would not accept any of
the articles we offered him. The General, whom he came to ſee, ſet
before him the principal inconveniencies attendant on long voyages; yet
he perſiſted in his reſolution, and returned on board the Eſperance. Juſt
as he was ſitting down to dinner, however, ſeveral natives came to in-
treat him to go on ſhore to ſee his family at leaſt once more, before he
undertook a voyage of ſuch a length. He complied with their intreaties,'
and never returned on board again. Some of the natives informed us,
that he was unable to reſiſt the prayers and tears of nine wives and ſeve-
ral children, whom he was going to leave, perhaps never to ſee more;
and that he had promiſed not to quit them. Kové had a fine counte-
Ilan Ce,
. .
April.] OF LA PEROUSE. 331"
nance, but not the gaiety of the other natives. Perhaps ſome domeſtic -
uneaſineſs had been one of the chief cauſes of his deſire to leave his coun-
try. Had he carried his deſign into execution, he would many times
have regretted the delicious fruits of his native iſle, when reduced, like
us, to feed on worm-eaten biſcuit. -
At the beginning of the night we fired off ten or a dozen muſkets,
and immediately we heard the ſhouts of a great number of the natives,
which were repeated from different places along the ſhore.
Our ſtay at the Friendly Iſlands contributed greatly to reſtore the
health of our crew. We found there plenty of vegetables, and laid in a
great ftock. The pork was excellent, which muſt be attributed in part
to the good quality of the roots and fruits with which the natives ſeed
their hogs. We took on board as many as our ſtye would contain; and
we were convinced, in the ſequel, that they could bear a long voyage,
though Captain Cook informs us that he experienced the contrary with
reſpect to thoſe which he procured at the Friendly Iſlands in the different
viſits he paid them. We purchaſed upwards of four hundred while we
lay at anchor, the greater part of which we ſalted. We adopted the
proceſs recommended by Cook in his third voyage, which conſiſts in
uſing a ſtrong brine, with a ſufficient quantity of vinegar to diſſolve the
ſalt. This we could do the more eaſily, as a great part of our wine was
turned ſour. -
A ſmall quantity of pork was ſalted by our butcher with ſalt alone;
and though under the Torrid Zone, it kept as well as what we prepared
after Cook's manner, and taſted even better. The fat preſerved in the
brine made with vinegar was diſguſting on account of its extreme ſoft-
neſs, and it had a very ſtrong taſte of the vinegar, which no one liked.
Our coops were filled with fowls. §
During the whole time of our lying at anchor, the quickſilver in the
barometer did not riſe above 28 inches two lines, French meaſure, and
its variation was about one line. , ,
The thermometer in the ſhade on ſhore had not riſen higher than
25° 4-1 oths, though we felt exceſſive heat. -
The
38.2 voyage IN SEARCH ! [793.
The winds had varied from the ſouth-eaſt to the north-eaſt, blowing
but faintly, - **. . . . . ; . . . . . . . .
Our obſervatory was in 21° 8' 10" S. lat., and, 180° 20' 38" E. löng.. .
The variation of the needle was 10° E. . .
The ſpring-tides roſe five feet; and it was high water about half after
fix on the days of new and full moon.
From the accounts given us of the ſhips that had anchored in this ar-
chipelago, by very intelligent natives, we were convinced that La Pé-
rouſe had never put in to any of theſe iſlands. Beſides, they aſſured us,
that no accident had happened to any veſſel that had ſtopped at them,
except to Bligh's launch; the affair of which they related without diſ-
guiſe, as I have mentioned above. The indifference with which they
told us this ſtory, convinced us, that if theſe people be not naturally fe-
rocious, they are at leaſt ſtrangers to ſentiments of humanity. The blows
with clubs, or logs of wood, with which the chiefs uſually accompany.
their orders, are an additional proof of this. They well remembered,
the different periods at which they had ſeen Captain Cook; and, to ac-
quaint us with the intervals, they reckoned them by harveſts of yams,
giving two of theſe to each year. Several of the natives, particularly
thoſe of the royal family, pronounced the name of Cook with enthuſiaſm:
but the great ſeverity of that celebrated navigator had prevented many
others from bearing him in memory with equal pleaſure; they ſpöke of
him only with complaints of the rigorous treatment they had experienged
at his hands. In fact, though in his laſt voyage he ſpeaks only of one
man wounded by a ball in the thigh, we ſaw another who had been ſhot
through the ſhoulder;” and he aſſured us that he had received this
wound during Cook's laſt viſit to Tongataboo. r • ... }
The natives of the Friendly Iſlands are in general tall and well made;
for which they are principally indebted, no doubt, to the abundance and
* In the account of Cook's laſt voyage, now before me, it is expreſsly ſaid, that the
man was ſhot through the ſhoulder, the ball having entered a little above the inner part
of the collar bone, and paſſed out obliquely backward. How Labillardiere was led into
this miſtake, I cannot ſay.--T anſlator,
good
APRIL.] OF LA PEROUSE. t 383
good quality of their food. The fine ſhape of theſe people is not de-
graded by exceſſive toil. Their muſcles being ſtrongly marked, we pre-
ſumed they muſt have great ſtrength ; but the idle life they lead renders
them very little capable of great exertion : accordingly, when they tried
their ſtrength againſt our ſailors, they were almoſt always worſted.
The men, as well as the women, are accuſtomed to cut off one or two
joints of the little finger, and ſometimes of the finger next to it, in the
hope of obtaining a cure from ſevere diſeaſes.
Moſt of them are tatoeed on all parts of the body. We ſaw a great
number, whoſe ſkin was covered with a ſcurfy eruption; which perhaps.
is owing to their not being accuſtomed to wipe themſelves, or waſh them-
ſelves with freſh water, after having been into the ſea.
We obſerved no ſymptoms of the venereal diſeaſe among the natives:
one of our ſeamen, however, caught a gonorrhoea there, but from a wo-
man, who had kept company with a man belonging to the Eſperance,
that had long laboured under the complaint. Have theſe people been
fortunate enough, for the diſeaſe to have become naturally extinct among
them, after having run through its ſeveral ſtages with rapidity ? ſince,
from the teſtimony of Captain Cook, there can be no doubt but it has
formerly made great ravages in theſe iſlands.
- The ſkin of the people of the Friendly Iſlands is tawny, becauſe they
frequently expoſe themſelves to the heat of the ſun; but the women,
who remain pretty conſtantly within doors, or in the ſhade of their trees,
have very fair complexions. The countenances of the women are in
general very pleaſing, and highly animated; and the good ſtate of health
they enjoy is particularly owing to their extreme cleanlineſs, and the good
quality of their diet.
CHAP.
38.4 wº VOYAGE IN SEARCH : [1793,
C H A P. XIII.
Departure from Tongataboo-We get Sight of the Southern Part of the Ar-
chipelago of the Tierra del Eſpiritu Santo, (New Hebrides)—Diſcovery
of the Iſland of Beaupré—We Anchor at New Caledonia—Interviews
with the Natives—Deſcription of their Huts— Theſe Savages are Canni-
bals—Their Impudence toward us—They eat great Pieces of Steatite, to
appeaſe their Hunger—Their Attempts to ſeize upon our Boats—Different
Excurſions into the Interior Part of the Iſland—Death of Captain Huon
—New Species of Spider, on which the Savages of New Caledonia
jeed. - * * * . . . . . . . * * * *
- 10th APRIL. - - . . .
BOUT ſeven in the morning we got under way, with a pretty freſh
A breeze from the eaſt-ſouth-eaſt, and ſteered for an hour from north-
weſt by ſouth to north, and afterward north by eaſt, paſſing out through
a channel toward the north of our anchoring place, which had been ex-
amined by Citizen Legrand. & ‘. .
In this channel we found by the lead from five fathoms and a half to
nine fathoms water. º
Some of the natives followed us in their canoes, expreſſing great re-
gret at our quitting their iſland. They cried out from all parts, offa,
offa Palançois, at the ſame time giving us marks of their regard.
We ſoon got ahead of the canoes that were paddled along; but thoſe
with ſails were obliged to ſlacken their rate of going, to keep at a ſhort
diſtance from us ; and we had an opportunity of obſerving, that they
would have taken the lead of our veſſels conſiderably, if they had availed
themſelves of the whole force of the breeze: this advantage, however,
they would ſoon have loſt, if the wind had been ſtronger, and the water
leſs ſmooth. As ſoon as we got into the open ſea, they deſiſted
from keeping us company any farther. We were then more than two
leagues
APRIL.] OF LA PEROUSE.
*t,
*—
35
leagues from the anchoring place we had juſt quitted, and we ſet the weſt
end of Attata, bearing ſouth 48° weſt.
At this time we had a gravclly bottom, with twenty-two fathoms and a
half of water.
11th. The next day, about five in the afternoon, we made Tortoiſe
Iſland, bearing from us north-weſt by north.
On the 16th, about ſeven o'clock in the evening, the Eſperance made
a ſignal for ſeeing land weſt 18° north, about eight leagues diſtance. This
was Erronan, the eaſternmoſt of the iſlands of the archipelago of Eſpi-
ritu Santo, diſcovered by Quiros in 1606. A little before noon thr
iſland of Annaton was in ſight, diſtant ten leagues, ſouth-weſt by ſouth,
He was five in the afternoon when we made the iſland of Tanna, bear.
ing weſt 16° north. Pillars of ſmoke iſſued from its volcano, and ſpread
abroad in the air, forming clouds, which roſe at firſt to a prodigious height,
and which, after having traverſed an immenſe ſpace, ſunk lower as they
grew eooler. During the night we enjoyed the brilliant ſpectacle of
theſe clouds, illumined by the vivid light of the burning matter, which
was thrown out from the bowels of the volcano at intervals.
18th. We were ſteering weſterly, the wind blowing very freſh from the
eaſt, when, about half after three in the morning, Dumérite, the officer on
the watch, heard the ſcreams of a flock of fea-fowl paſſing very cloſe by
our ſhip: apprehenſive that we were near ſome of the rocks, which com-
monly ſerve them as a retreat, he thought it adviſable to bring to, and
wait for day-light to continue our courſe: and as ſoon as day broke, we
faw a very little way to leeward of us ſome reefs of rocks ſtretching a great
way, on which our ſhip muſt inevitably have ſtruck, if this fortuitous oc-
currenee had not given us notice to ſtop our courſe in time. In fact,
as the night was extremely dark, it would have been impoſſible to have
ſeen the breakers ſoon enough to avoid them: beſides, the wind blowing
very freſh, the ſea ran ſo high all round us, that we could not ſoon enough
have diſtinguiſhed the waves that broke on the reefs from the reſt. Be-
yond theſe reefs, and near two leagues diſtant from them, we ſaw an
iſland, which bore, when we made it, fouth 28° weſt, and to which I
Y. Y w Yº Y " .
3 C Cºlvº
*...*
-x.
3Só VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
gave the name of Citizen Beaupré, engineer-geographer to our expedi-
tion. This iſland lies in the latitude of 20° 14' ſouth, longitude 1639
47 eaſt. It is very low, and about 1500 toiſes long. We afterwards
diſcovered ſome rocks bearing ſouth 21° eaſt; and a little while after ſome
others towards the ſouth.
It is to be remarked, that the currents ſet us to the north about
twenty-four minutes a day, when we were near Tierra del Eſpiritu Santo,
and paſſing between that archipelago and new Caledonia. Undoubtedly
this is owing to the poſition of the land, which, while it changes the di-
rećtion of the currents determined by the general winds, increaſes their
ſtrength.
About one o'clock in the afternoon we got fight of the high mountains
of New Caledonia to the ſouth-weſt; and at half-after four we were within
a thouſand toiſes of the reefs bordering that iſland. The foot of the
mountains on this ſide are waſhed by the ſea, and they are likewiſe more
ſteep here than on the weſtern ſhore, which we coaſted along the year
before. *-
We ſaw a fine caſcade, the water f hich, after having diſappeared
feveral times in deep gullies, came tumbling into the ſea; and we ad-
mired the pictureſque effect of the torrents, which we perceived toward
the ſouth-weſt, their waters white with foam producing an agreeable
contraſt to the duſky verdure of theſe high lands.
During the night we continued plying to windward, endeavouring to
maintain our ſtation againſt the currents, that we might be in a ſituation
to come to an anchor the next day.
19th. As ſoon as day-light appeared we approached within 800
toiſes of the reefs, along which we ran, in order to find the opening
through which we were to reach the anchoring place; but it blew very
hard from the ſouth-ſouth-eaſt, and we had already fallen to lecward,
when we diſtinguiſhed the opening in the reefs. Though we were pretty
near the ſhore, we did not perceive Obſervatory Iſland, which left us for
forme time doubtful whether we were oppoſite the place where Captain
Cook anchored in 1774; and accordingly we put about, to get more to
the
APRIL.] OF LA PEROUSE. 38?
the north-eaſt. At noon we found by our obſervations, that we nuſt be
* near Obſervatory Iſland, and it was not long before we got fight of it,
though it is extremely low ; when we immediately bore away for the
anchoring place. In the opening between the reefs we had from eleven
fathom water to thirteen and a half, but when we got within them we
had only from ſeven fathoms to eight and a half.
A double canoe immediately came ſailing out to us. She had on board
eleven natives, whoſe manoeuvres gave us no very high idea of their ſkill
in navigation. They ſpoke to us, and ſhowed us ſome pieces of white
ſtuff, which they waved in the air, ſtill keeping more than a hundred
toiſes from the ſhip. A ſhort time after they returned on ſhore.
The Eſperance, being a little to windward of us, grounded on a ſhoal,
which we in conſequence took care to avoid, and preſently after let go our
anchor, in order to lend her aſſiſtance. General Dcntrecaſteaux imme-
diately ſent our long-boat to her, and at cight o'clock in the evening we
had the agreeable news that ſhe was again afloat, and had received no
damage.
20th. At ſun-riſe the next morning we ſaw four canoes under ſail, coming
towards our ſhips. When they got very near us, they ſeemed to be under
ſome fears: but one of the ſavages, having yielded to our invitations,
and come on board, was followed by almoſt all the reſt. We were fur-
priſed, to find them ſet more value on our ſtuffs than on our nails, or even
hatchets, which they called togui ; a name much reſembling that given
them at the Friendly Iſlands, though they do not ſpeak the ſame tongue,
as may be ſeen by the vocabularies of the languages of theſe people, at the
cnd of the preſent work. We could not doubt, however, but thcy were
acquainted with iron, w hich they deſignated to us by the denomination
of pitiou ; but the very hard ſtones which they uſe, renders it of leſs im-
portance to them, than to many other inhabitants of the South Sea
Iſlands.
We ſhowed them ſome cocoas and yams, and requeſted them to bring
us ſome : but, far from going to fetch any for us, they wanted to buy
ours, offering us in exchange their ſpears and clubs, and giving us to un-
3 C 2 detii and
388 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
derſtand that they were very hungry, putting their hands to their bellies,
which were extremely flat. They expreſſed ſome fear on ſeeing the pigs
which we had on board, which led us to ſuppoſe that they had no ſuch
animal ; though Captain Cook had left two, a boar and ſow, with one of
their chiefs. As ſoon as they ſaw our poultry, however, they imitated the
crowing of the cock tolerably well, ſo as to leave us no doubt that they
had fowls on their iſland.
None of the women in the canoes conſented to come on board our
veſſel ; and when we were deſirous of making them a preſent of anything,
the men took it to carry to them. r
Theſe ſavages came in double canoes of the ſhape repreſented in Plate
XLV. Fig. 1. Their maſt was fixed at an equal diſtance from the two
canoes, and toward the fore part of the platform, by which they were
joined together. They are not ſo ſkilfully conſtructed as thoſe of the
Friendly Iſlands, to which they are much inferior in point of ſailing.
One of them, running againſt our ſhip with too much force, received ſo
much damage, that the canoe on one ſide ſoon filled. The ſavages in
her immediately got upon the other, and let themſelves go with the cur-
rent, which drifted them toward the ſhore. The other canoes left us pre-
fently after, and failed after her, in order to give her aſſiſtance.
21ſt. Early in the morning we manned the capſtan, in order to warp
our ſhip nearer to Obſervatory Iſland; for which purpoſe we had carried
out ſeveral hawſers tied end to end; but they gave way ſeveral times, and
obliged us to let go the anchor again.
We were ſurrounded by canoes, the natives in which came on board
our ſhip, and ſold us ſeveral articles, ſuch as are delineated in Plates
XXXVII and XXXVIII. Some of them had a few cocoa-nuts and
ſugar-canes, which they would not part with by any means, though we
offered a great price for them.
Theſe ſavages were all naked, except that they wrapped their privities
in pieces of coarſe ſtuff, made of bark, or in large leaves of trees. Their
hair is woolly; and their ſkin is nearly of as deep a black as that of the in-
habitants of Diemen's Cape, whom they very much reſemble in the general
caſt
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APRIL.] OF LA PEROUSE. 380
caſt of their countenance. Several of them had their heads bound round
with a little net, the meſhes of which were large. We obſerved with ſur-
priſe, a great many, who, deſirous, no doubt, of having the appearance of
long hair, had faſtened to their own locks two or three treſſes, made
with the leaves of ſome plants of the graſs kind, and covered with
the hair of the vampire bat, which hung down to the middle of their
backs.
Moſt of theſe iſlanders, armed with ſpears and clubs, carried at their
waiſt a little bag full of ſtoncs, cut into an oval ſhape, which they throw
with ſlings. (See Plates XXXV and XXXVIII. Fig. 10, 17, and 1s.) The
lower lobe of their ears, perforated with a very large hole, hung down to
their ſhoulders. Into theſe holes ſome had introduced leaves of trees,
others a piece of wood, to ſtretch them bigger. Several had this lobe
jagged ; perhaps from having been torn, either in battle, or in running
through the woods.
Behind the ears of one of theſe ſavages we obſerved tubercles of the
ſhape of a veal ſweetbread, and half as big as a man's fiſt. He appeared
well pleaſed at ſeeing us examine this ornament, the growth of which he
had effected by means of a cauſtic, by which the parts, no doubt, muſt
have been greatly irritated for a conſiderable time.
The women had no other garment than a kind of fringe, made of the
filaments of the bark of trees, which ſerved them as a girdle, paſſing fe-
veral times round the waiſt (See Plate XXXVI).
The canoes kept themſelves cloſe by our ſhip, by means of different
ropes, which we had thrown out to them. Each of them, however, had
a large ſtone, to ſerve as an anchor, faſtened to a long rope, but they did
not make uſe of theſe on the preſent occaſion.
22d. The next day we got up our anchor at ſix o'clock in the morning,
and made ſeveral ſtretches to get nearer to Obſervatory Iſland, which the
natives call by the name of Pudyoua. At half after ten, when we brought
up, this iſland was not above 500 toiſes diſtant to the eaſt 3° 15' ſouth.
We ſaw the land of New Caledonia from eaſt 19° 30' ſouth, to weſt 12°
north, from the neareſt ſhore of which we were only 590 toiſes. The
* inhabitants
300 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
inhabitants now had no occaſion for their canoes to come to us; moſt of
them ſwam to the ſhip, with the articles which they wiſhed to ſell.
I Ought not here to omit a malicious trick, which had nearly cauſed the
loſs of the young bread-fruit trees, that I had brought from the Friendly
Iſlands. I had watered them in the evening; but, ſeeing ſome drops of
water early in the morning trickle from the box in which they were
planted, I had no doubt, but ſome one had watered them long after me.
Of this I was fully convinced, the moment I taſted the water, that filtered
through the mould ; for it was ſalt. The inquiries I made to diſcover
the perſon who had been guilty of this trick, were in vain.
About one in the afternoon we went aſhore, and were ſoon ſurrounded
by a great number of the natives, who juſt came out of the middle of the
wood, into which we had entered ſeveral times, though ſtill keeping near
the ſhore. We preſently found a few feattered huts, three or four hun-
dred paces diſtant from each other, and overſhadowed by a few cocoa
trees. Soon after we came to four, which formed a little hamlet, in one
of the gloomieſt parts of the foreſt. They were all nearly of the ſhape of
beehives, a toiſe and a half in height, and as much in breadth. (See Plate
XXXVIII, Fig. 28, 29, 30).
Figure 28 repreſents one of theſe huts, ſurrounded by a paliſade a yard
and a half high, made with the limbs of the cocoa tree, arranged pretty
cloſe to each other, and three feet and half from the borders of the hut.
A little walk was formed in the ſame manner before the door.
We afterwards ſaw ſeveral huts which were not ſurrounded by paliſades
(See Fig. 20). The door, which was about a yard high, and half a yard wide,
was ſometimes cloſed by means of a piece of a limb of the cocoa-trec, the
folioles of which were interlaced. Several of theſe doors had two poſts,
made of planks, at the upper extremity of each of which a man's head
was rudcly carved The lower part of theſe huts was erected perpendi-
cularly to the height of a yard, where they tapered off in a pretty regular
cone, terminated by the upper end of a poſt that was fixed in the centre
of the floor.
rigarc go repreſents the inſide of theſe huts. The frame conſiſts of
poles,
APRIL.] OF LA, PEROUSE 391
poles, bearing againſt the upper end of the poſt, which may be ſeen riſing
from the middle of the floor, and which is near three inches in diameter
at the bottom. A few pieces of wood bent to an arch, render theſe little
habitations ſufficiently ſtrong. They are covered with ſtraw to the
thickneſs of two or three inches. The floor, on which the natives are
perfectly ſheltered from the weather, is ſpread with mats. But the
moſchettoes are ſo troubleſome, that they are obliged to light fires to drive
them away when they go to ſleep; and as there is no vent for the ſmoke,
except at the door, they muſt be extremely incommoded by it.
In general there is a board within the hut on one ſide, faſtened with
cords in a horizontal poſition, about a yard from the ground. This ſhelf,
however, can ſupport nothing of much weight, for the cords are very
ſlight.
Near ſome of their dwellings we ſaw little hillocks of earth, twelve or
fourteen inches high, with a very open treillis in the middle, of the height
of two or three yards. The ſavages called theſe mbouet, and informed us
that they were graves; inclining the head on one ſide, while they ſup-
ported it with the hand, and cloſing the eyes, to expreſs the repoſe en-
joyed by the remains of thoſe who were there depoſited.
On returning toward the place where we landed, we found more than
ſeven hundred natives, who had run thither from all parts. They aſked
us for ſtuffs and iron in exchange for their effects, and ſome of them ſoon
convinced us that they were very audacious thieves. Annong their dif-
ferent tricks I ſhall relate one which theſe knaves played me. One of
them offered to ſell me a little bag, which held ſtones cut into an oval
ſhape, and which was faſtened to his waiſt. He untied it, and held it
out as if ready to deliver it to me with one hand, while he received the
price agreed upon with the other; but at the very inſtant another ſavage,
who haſt poſted himſelf behind me, gave a great ſcream, which made me
turn my head round, and immediately the rogue his comrade ran away
with his bag and my things, endeavouring to conceal himſelf in the crowd.
We were unwilling to puniſh him, though moſt of us were armcd with
firelocks. It was to be feared, however, that this act of forbearance would
be
392 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
be conſidered as a mark of weakneſs by the natives, and render them ſtill
more infolent. What happened ſoon after ſeemed to confirm this: feveral
of them were ſo bold as to throw ſtones at an officer, who was not above
two hundred paces from us. We would not yet treat them with ſeve-
rity ; for we were ſo much prejudiced in their favour, from the account
given of them by Forſter, that more facts were neceſſary to deſtroy the
good opinion we entertained of the gentleneſs of their diſpoſitions: but
we had ſoon inconteſtable proofs of their ferociouſneſs. One of them
having in his hand a bone freſh roaſted, and devouring the remainder of
the fleſh ſtill adhering to it, came up to Citizen Piron, and invited him to
ſhare his repaſt. He, ſuppoſing the ſavage was offering him a piece of
ſome quadruped, accepted the bone, on which nothing but the tendinous
parts were left; and, having ſhown it to me, I perceived that it belonged
to the pelvis of a child of fourteen or fifteen years of age. The natives
around us pointed out on a child the ſituation of this bone; confeſſed,
without heſitation, that the fleſh of it had furniſhed ſome one of their
countrymen with a meal; and even gave us to underſtand, that they
conſidered it as a dainty.
This diſcovery made us very uneaſy for thoſe of our people, who were
{till in the woods: ſhortly after, however, we had the pleaſure to find
ourſelves all aſſembled together in the ſame ſpot, and no longer feared that
ſome of us would fall vićtims to the barbarity of theſe iſlanders.
When we got on board our ſhip, being ſurpriſed at ſeeing none of the
ſavages there, we were informed that there had been a great many, but
that they had been driven away becauſe they had ſtolen ſeveral things.
Moſt of them had made off in their canoes; and the reſt had jumped
into the ſea and ſwam aſhore : two, however, were returned on board,
not being able to ſwim faſt enough to join the others, whether owing to
ſome bodily infirmity, or to their having leaped into the ſea too long after
the departure of their boats to be able to take refuge in them. As the fun
was alrcady ſet, and they were cold, they went to warm themſelves at the
fire in our cook-room.
The moſt part of thoſe who belonged to our cºpedition, and who had
remained
A PRIL.; . OF LA PEROUSE. 303
*
remained on board, would not give credit to our recital of the barbarous
taſte of thoſe iſlanders, not being able to perſuade themſelves that people,
of whom Captains Cook and Forſter had given ſo favourable an account,
could degrade themſelves by ſuch a horrible practice; but it was not
very difficult to convince the moſt incredulous. I had brought with me
a bone which had already been picked, and which our Surgeon-Major
ſaid was the bone of a child. I preſented it to the two natives whom we
had on board. One of thoſe cannibals immediately ſeized it with avidity,
and tore with his teeth the finews and ligaments which yet remained. I
gave it next to his companion, who found ſomething more to pick
from it.
The different ſigns which our people made, in order to obtain an
avowal of the practice of eating human fleſh, being aukwardly made,
occaſioned a very great miſtake. An exceſſive conſternation was inſtantly
viſible in all their features; doubtleſs becauſe they thought that we alſo were
men-eaters, and, imagining that their laſt hour was come, they began to
weep. We did not ſucceed in convincing them entirely of their miſtake,
by all the ſigns we could make of our abhorrence of ſo terrible a prac-
tice. One of them made a precipitate retreat through a port-hole, and
held faſt by one of the ropes of the mizen maſt ſhrouds, ready to leap into
the ſea; the other jumped into the water at once, and ſwam to the moſt
diſtant of the boats aſtern of our veſſel; they were not long, however,
before they recovered from their fear, and rejoined our company.
The ſmall ſtream, where Captain Cook had taken in water when he
touched at this place, was dry when we viſited it : we found, however, a
ſmall watering place to the ſouth-weſt of our veſſel, about three hundred
paces diſtant from the ſea: the water was very good, but it was rather
difficult to be come at, and the reſervoir which furniſhed it ſcarcely ſup-
plied enough to fill once in a day caſks ſufficient to load the long-boat
of each ſhip, ſo that it was neceſſary to wait till next day till nore was
colle&ted to repleniſh them.
We found very near this watering place the ruſty bottom of an iron
3 D candleſtick,
304 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793,
candleſtick, which probably had lain there ever ſince 1774, when Cap-
tain Cook anchored in this road.
23d. The next morning we went on ſhore at the neareſt landing place,
where we found a number of ſavages who were already taking ſome re-
freſhment. They invited us to join them in eating ſome meat juſt
broiled, which we diſtinguiſhed to be human fleſh. The ſkin which yet
remained, preſerved its form and even its colour on ſeveral parts. They
ſhewed us they had juſt cut that piece from the middle of the arm, and
they gave us to underſtand, by very expreſſive ſigns, that after having
pierced with their darts the perſon of whoſe limbs we ſaw the remnants
in their hands, they had diſpatched him with their clubs. They no doubt
wiſhed to make us ſenſible that they only eat their enemies, and indeed it
was not poſſible that we ſhould have found ſo many inhabitants in this
country, if they had had any other inducement but that of hunger to
make them devour each other. We went to the ſouth-ſouth-weſt,
and ſoon croſſed a country which lies rather low, where we ſaw ſome
plantations of yams and potatoes; we then came to the foot of ſome
mountains, where we found ten of the inhabitants who joined our com-
pany. They ſoon began to climb up trees of the ſpecies called hiſbiſcus tili-
aceus, the youngeſt ſprouts of which they pulled off and immediately
chewed, in order to ſuck the juice contained in the bark. Others ga-
thered the fruit of the cordia ſebeſiina, which they eat even to the kernel.
We did not expe&t to ſee cannibals content themſelves with ſo frugal a
repaſt.
The heat was exceſſive, and we had not yet found any water. We fol-
lowed a hollow track, in which we remarked the traces of a torrent of
water in the wet ſeaſon. The verdure of the underwood, which we per-
ceived a little farther off on its borders, gave us hopes of finding a ſpring
to quench our thirſt ; in fact we were no ſooner arrived than we ſaw a
very limpid ſtream iſſuing from an enormous rock of freeſtone, and after-
wards filling a large cavity hollowed out in a block of the ſame ſort of
ſtone. Here we halted, and the natives, who accompanied us, ſat down
by
APRIL.] OF LA PEROUSE. 395
by us. We gave them biſcuits, which they devoured with avidity,
though they were very much worm-eatcry, but they would not even taſte
our cheeſe, and we had nothing eatable beſides to offer them.
They preferred the water of the reſervoir to wine or brandy, and
drank it in a manner which afforded us no ſmall entertainment, inclining
the head at about two feet diſtance above the ſurface of the water, they
threw it up againſt their faces with their hands, opening their mouths
very wide, and catching as much as they could ; thus they ſoon quenched
their thirſt. It may eaſily be conceived, that even the moſt expert at this
method of drinking muſt wet the greateſt part of their bodies. As they
diſturbed our water, we begged them to go lower down to drink, which
requeſt they immediately complied with.
Some of them approached the moſt robuſt amongſt us, and, at different
intervals, preſſed with their fingers the moſt muſcular parts of their arms
and legs, pronouncing rapareck with an air of admiration, and even of
longing, which rather alarmed us, but upon the whole they gave us no
cauſe for diſſatisfaction.
I obſerved in theſe places a number of plants belonging to the ſame ge-
nera with many of thoſe I had collected in New Holland, although the
two countries are at very great diſtance from each other.
We ſaw with ſurprize, about a third part of the aſcent up the mountain,
ſmall walls raiſed one above another, to prevent the rolling down of the
ground which the natives cultivated. I have found the ſame practice ex-
tremely general amongſt the inhabitants of the mountains of Aſia Minor.
It is not a common practice amongſt the ſavages of New Caledonia to
make an inciſion in the prepuce ; nevertheleſs, out of ſix of them, whom
we perſuaded to ſatisfy our curioſity in that reſpect, we found one who
had it ſlit in a longitudinal direction on the upper ſide.
When we had reached the middle of the mountain, the natives who
followed would have perſuaded us not to go any farther, and informed
us that the inhabitants on the other ſide of this ridge would eat us ;
we, however, perſiſted in aſcending to the top, for we were ſufficiently
armed to be under no apprehenſion of danger from thcfe cannibals. Thoſe
3 D 2 who
396 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
who accompanied us were, without doubt, at war with the others, for
they would not follow us any farther.
The mountains which we aſcended riſe in the form of an amphi-
theatre, and are a continuation of the great chain which runs the whole
length of the iſland. Their perpendicular height is about 2,500 feet
above the level of the ſea. We obſerved them riſe gradually to the eaſt-
ſouth-eaſt, till they terminated in a very high mountain about three miles
from our moorings.
The chief component parts of thoſe mountains are quartz, mica, and
ſteatite, of a ſofter or harder quality, ſchorl of a green colour, granite, iron
4.) Tº , &c.
On our deſcent from theſe mountains, we ſtopped at the bottom in the
midſt of ſeveral families of ſavages aſſembled in the neighbourhood of
their huts, to whom we ſignified a deſire to quench our thirſt with the
water of the cocoa-nuts; but as this fruit is rather ſcarce in that part of
the iſland, they conſulted together for a conſiderable time before they
agreed to ſell us any. At laſt one of their number went to pull a
few from the top of one of the higheſt trees, in order to bring them
to us. We were extremely ſurpriſed at the rapidity with which he
aſcended, holding the body of the tree with his hands, he ran along the
whole length of it, almoſt with as much eaſe and celerity as if he had
been walking on an horizontal plain. I never before had occaſion to ad-
mire ſuch agility amongſt any of the other iſlanders whom we had viſited.
The ſea water frequently waſhed the foot of the tree from which our
cocoa nuts were taken, ſo that the liquor with which they were filled was
ſomewhat four, but we drank it, being extremely thirſty. The children
of theſe ſavages waited till we had emptical the water of the cocoa nuts,
when they begged them of us, finding means to get ſomething more from
them. They tore with their teeth the fibrous covering of theſe young
fruits, of which the nuts were ſcarcely formed, and then eat the tender
part encloſed in it, which was much too bitter for our palatcs.
When we arrived on board, we learned that two of the iſlanders had
that morning carried off from an officer of our veſſel (Bonvouloir) a
uniforn
APRIL.] OF LA PEROUSE. 3(;7
*.*.*
uniform cap and a ſabre, while he was occupied on ſhore making ſome
aſtronomical obſervations, although the ſailors, who had landed with him,
had traced upon the ſand a large circle round the place of obſervation,
which they had forbidden the ſavages to enter; but two thieves having
concerted their enterpriſe, advanced with precipitation behind the officer
who had juſt ſat down, and placed his ſabre underneath him. One of
them ſeized his cap, and the inſtant he roſe up to purſue him, the other
t
ran away with his ſabre. This bold manoeuvre was certainly not the:
firſt attempt. -
Night approached, all our boats were already alongſide, yet two ot-
ficers (Dewelle and Willaumez) were ſtill on ſhore, with two of the
ſhip's crew, but they ſoon arrived on the beach, followed by a great num-
ber of the inhabitants. The General's boat was inſtantly diſpatched to
bring them on board. They told us that the ſavages, who had crowded
around them, to the number of above three hundred, upon obſerving that
all our boats had quitted the ſhore, had behaved in the moſt audacious
manner. One of them having wreſted his ſword from Dewelle, the latter
attempted to purſue the thief, but the others immediately raiſed their
clubs in his defence. All of our people were robbed with the greateſt
effrontery, but when our boat arrived, two chiefs, who probably had pre-
vented the ſavages from proceeding to greater extremities, begged leave
to embark in it. They carried two ſmall parcels of ſugar-cane and co-
coa-nuts to the General, who made them in return a preſent of an axe,
and ſeveral pieces of ſtuff. Thoſe chiefs, whom they called Theahouma
in their language, wore on their head bonnets of a cylindrical form.
adorned with feathers, ſhells, &c. (See Plate XXXVII, Fig. 1ſt and 2d.)
but as they were open at top, they were no covering from the rain.
It was not long before a double canoe, diſpatched from the ſhore, came
to convey the chiefs back again. It was night before they departed, and
the ſavages on ſhore had lighted a fire on a ſand-bank to warm them-
ſelves. We went aſhore on the 25th with thoſe of the crew who were
appointed to recruit our ſtock of wood, which they cut at a place 500
yards diſtant from where we had watered.
\\ſe
398 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
We did not ſtray far from our wood-cutters, for we were but few in
number, and the deſigns of the natives appeared to us very ſuſpicious.
About nine in the morning they took poſſeſſion of our ſhallop which
was anchored near the coaſt, and only guarded by one man. They were
already dragging it towards the ſtrand, in order to carry off the effects
that were in it with the greater eaſe, when another boat's crew came to
its relief; but the thieves did not give up their enterpriſe till they were
on the point of being fired upon.
Laſſeny having gone on ſhore to make ſome aſtronomical obſervations,
was obliged to re-embark almoſt immediately, being unable to keep off a
number of ſavages who ſeemed inclined to attempt the ſeizure of the in-
ſtruments, although he was armed and accompanied by two aſſiſtants,
beſides ſeveral of the boat's crew. *
The maſter gunner of the Eſperance, while hunting in the foreſt, per-
ceived about noon, in a large open ſpace not far from the wood-cutters,
above two hundred natives, who were practiſing themſelves in throwing
their darts, and different exerciſes. He retired unperceived, and haſtened
to relate to us what he had juſt witneſſed. One of the officers of our
veſſel immediately went with four fuſileers to obſerve the motions of the
ſavages; who, on perceiving them, advanced, and obliged them to make
a precipitate retreat towards the wood-cutters. The ſavages ſoon re-
paired thither likewiſe; and we were not long before we diſcovered the
deſign they had formed of ſeizing our axes, which had been laid in a
heap in the midſt of our workmen, who were aſſembled to take ſome re-
freſhment. The commanding officer inſtantly gave orders for thoſe tools
to be carried into the long boat; but the ſailor who attempted it was aſ-
ſailed by the iſlanders, who were on the point of carrying them off, when
feveral muſquet ſhots were fired. One of the moſt audacious, who fell on
that occaſion, had ſtill ſtrength enough to crawl as far as the wood. The
others retired immediately, and ſaluted us with a ſhower of ſtones from
their ſlings. The ſtones, which they carrica in ſmall bags ſuſpended from
their belts, were cut into an oval form ; but they did not wound any one
dangerouſly, on account of the great diſtance; beſides, moſt of them
WCIC
APRIL.] OF LA PEROUSE. 390.
were ſtopped by the branches of the trees, behind which the natives had
taken refuge. This is not always the gaſe when they fight among them-
ſclves; for being then probably leſs afraid to advance, they frequently
have their cyes beat out in theſe battles, as ºveral of the inhabitants,
who had loſt one of them, informed us. When they diſcharge the
ſtones from their ſlings they only make half a turn with them above
their heads, which is done with as much expedition as if thrown with
the hand. Theſe ſtones, cut from a ſteatite of conſiderable hardneſs, arc
very ſmooth, for which reaſon the ſavages take the precaution to wet
them with their ſpittle, to prevent their ſliding from the two ſmall cords
of which the bottoms of their ſlings are formed.
The different movements of theſe ſavages having been perceived from
on board the Recherche, the General ordered two cannon-ſhot to be
fired on them, which made them immediately diſperſe acroſs the wood;
but ſoon after onc of their chiefs advanced towards us alone and un-
armed, holding in his hand a piece of white ſtuff, made of the bark of a
tree, which the Commanding Officer received as a token that the good
underſtanding between us and the ſavages ſhould not be interrupted. Soon
after four other natives canne and ſat down in the midſt of us with as
much confidence as their chief, behind whom they placed themſelves;
but he ſeemed much diſpleaſed with ſeveral others who came to reſt
themſelves under the ſhade of the neighbouring trees, whom he ſeveral
times called robbers (kaya).
We re-embarked at four o'clock, P. M. and were already ſteering to—
wards our ſhips, when we ſaw a troop of ſavages running along the
ſtrand towards us, loaded with a variety of fruits, which they had brought
as a preſent for us. They leaped into the water ſeveral times to bring
them to us, but we were driven in a weſterly direction by a ſtrong cur-
rent, and cou. | 1.ot ſtop to receive thoſe marks of reconciliation.
I went on illore next day very near the watering place at the ſame
time that the General arrived there. The guard was ſtronger than the
day before, in orde, the better to keep the iſlanders in awe. It was feared
after what had paſſed the preceding day, they might attempt to Poiſor.
ths
AOO VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
the water with which we were going to fill our caſks, and it was thought
neceſſary, according to the opinion of our Chief Surgeon, to try the ex-
periment on a gooſe; but it was attended with no bad effects. Indeed,
feveral of our ſailors would not wait for the reſult of that proof, but,
being very thirſty, had already drank of the water even before the com-
mencement of the experiment.
The inhabitants having approached our place of landing, lines were
drawn on the ſand, the limits of which they were forbidden to paſs, and
we had the ſatisfaction to obſerve that they ſubmitted peaceably to thoſe
orders. We gave to moſt of them pieces of biſcuit, which they begged
by extending one hand, whilſt with the other they pointed to their bellies,
which were naturally very flat, but the muſcles of which they contraćted
as much as poſſible, to make them look ſtill more empty. I ſaw, never-
theleſs, one man whoſe ſtomach was already well lined, but who, in our
preſence, eat a piece of ſteatite, which was very ſoft, of a greeniſh co-
lour, and twice as large as a man's fiſt. We afterwards ſaw a number
of others eat of the ſame earth, which ſerves to allay the ſenſation of
hunger by filling the ſtomach, and thereby ſupporting the viſcera of the
diaphragm; although that ſubſtance affords no nutritive aliment, it is
nevertheleſs very uſeful to theſe people, who are often expoſed to long
privations from food, becauſe they neglect the cultivation of the ſoil,
which is of itſelf very barren.
It is probable that the natives of New Caledonia have made choice of
this earth on account of its being very liable to crumble; it is extremely
eaſy of digeſtion, and one would never have ſuſpected that cannibals
would have recourſe to ſuch an expedient when preſſed by hunger.
Three women having joined the other ſavages who ſurrounded us,
gave us no very favourable idea of their muſic. They ſung a trio, keep-
ing time very exactly, but the roughneſs and diſcordant tones of their
voices excited in us very diſagreeable ſenſations, which the ſavages, how-
ever, ſeemed to liſten to with much pleaſure.
Lahaie, the gardener, and myſelf, ventured into the middle of the
wood, followed by only two of the ſhip's company; we went from choice
1ntO
APRIL.] OF LA PEROUSE. 4 Ol
into thoſe places where we thought we had leaſt chance of meeting with
the natives, who took care to conceal themſelves behind buſhes when
they perceived us: at other times they hid themſelves behind large trees,
changing their poſition as we moved; but one old man, finding us ap-
proaching on both ſides of the tree, behind which he was, ſo that he
could not conceal himſelf, came up to us as if abandoning himſelf to our
diſcretion, but he ſoon appeared ſatisfied he was fafe when we gave him:
a few pieces of biſcuit.
The gardener had already ſcattered in the wood different ſorts of ſeeds
which he had brought from Europe; but as ſome ſtill remained, he gave
them to the ſavage, requeſting him to ſow them.
We ſoon diſcovered a number of huts ſtanding at ſome diſtance from
each other, and were ſurpriſed at not finding any inhabitants in them.
They were conſtructed in the ſame manner as that deſcribed in the be-
ginning of this chapter: further on we perceived a heap of aſhes; pro-
bably one of the habitations had been recently conſumed by the fire
which the ſavages kindle to drive away the muſquitoes.
Two tombs which were not far diſtant had not ſuſtained any damage.
I ſaw two human bones, each ſuſpended by a cord to a long pole ſtuck
in the ground; the one was a tibia, the other a thigh bone.
I obſerved, on the hills which I croſſed to return to our landing place,
the tree called commerſonia echinata, which is very common in the Mo-
luccas. Amongſt the different ſorts of ſhrubs which I gathered was a
jeſſamine remarkable for the plainneſs of its leaves and its flowers, which
have no ſmell, and are of the colour of marigolds.
Several fires lighted near the ſummit of the neighbouring mountain
convinced us that it ſerved as a retreat for the natives.
On arriving at our landing place we found a great number of ſavages
who had aſſembled there ſince our departure. They informed us that
feveral of the inhabitants had been wounded in the affair of the preced-
ing evening, and that one had already expired of his wounds. They did
not manifeſt any hoſtile diſpoſitions towards us; but a boat belonging to
the Eſperance being at a conſiderable diſtance from thence towards the
º TN
‘. . . eaſt,
AOº VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
eaſt, had been attacked by another party of ſavages, who thought they
were in force ſufficient to make themſelves maſters of it, but fortunately
they failed in the attempt.
We were told on arriving on board that not a ſingle canoe had ap-
proached our veſſels, which we thought was rather to be attributed to
a ſmart gale which had blown the whole day, than to any fear of our
reſentment for the hoſtile diſpoſition manifeſted by them the preceding
evening. *
We had formed a deſign, together with ſeveral perſons belonging to
the two veſſels, to go and viſit the other ſide of the mountains, bearing
ſouth of our moorings; for this purpoſe we aſſembled on the ſhore to
the number of twenty-eight, early in the morning of the 26th. We
had all agreed to come armed, that we might be able to render mutual
aſſiſtance, in caſe the ſavages ſhould venture to make an attack upon us.
We marched for a long while in paths that were well beaten, accom-
panicd by ſome of the inhabitants, and many of us, in imitation of them,
chewed the young ſprouts of the hibiſcus tiliaceus, and threw them
away almoſt immediately; but to our great ſurpriſe the ſavages eagerly
picked them up, and chewed them over again without the leaſt heſita-
tion.
When we had reached the middle of the mountain we found very
large blocks of mica, wherein we perceived granites which had loſt
their tranſparency, and moſt of them larger than a man's thumb. We
found others farther on in the rocks of freeſtone, which were very ſmall,
but retained their luſtre.
A ſmoke which we obſerved to iſſue at intervals from a grove at a
ſmall diſtance to the S. S. W. induced us to direét our courſe that way.
We there found two men and a child occupied in broiling, on a fire of
charcoal, the roots of a ſort of bean, which is known to botaniſts by the
name of dolichos tuberoſus, and which the iſlanders call yalé. They had
been but recently dug up, for the ſtalks were ſtill hanging to them, and
were covered with flowers and fruits. They partook of the barrenneſs of
the ſoil which produced them, the fibres were very ſtringy, and they
WC Tº
APRIL.] OF LA PEROUSE. 403
were not not more than three-quarters of an inch in thickneſs, and about
ten or eleven inches in length.
We met very near the ſame ſpot with a ſmall family, which appeared
to be alarmed at our approach. We immediately made each of them a
few preſents, in hopes of encouraging them, which had the deſired effect
upon the huſband and two children: but one of our people-having offered
a pair of ſciſſars to the mother; and wiſhing to ſhew her the uſe of
them, by cutting off a few of her hairs, the poor woman began inſtantly
to cry; no doubt giving herſelf up for loſt : but her fears ſubſided as
ſoon as ſhe was put in poſſeſſion of the inſtrument.
The inhabitants of theſe mountains appeared to us to live in the greateſt
wretchedneſs. They were all extremely meagre. They ſleep in the
open air without being tormented by the muſquitoes; for theſe inſects are
driven from the high grounds by the E. S. E. winds, which blow here
almoſt inceſſantly. The ſame winds are ſo prejudicial to vegetation, that
trees which below grow to a great height, here wear the appearance of
ſhrubs. Melaleuca latifolia, for example, is ſcarcely fourteen inches high,
whereas on the hills it attains the height of twenty-ſeven or thirty feet.
But ſtill there are vegetables peculiar to the ſummits of thoſe mountains,
which appear to agree perfectly well with the current of air to which they
are thus expoſed. I ſhall give a deſcription of one of the moſt remarkable.
It forms a new genus, which I diſtinguiſh by the name of dracophyllum.
The calix is compoſed of ſix ſmall oval leaves, pointed towards the end.
The corolla is in one piece, and divided ſlightly on the border into fix
equal parts. It is ſurrounded with ſix ſmall ſcales at the lower end.
The ſtamina, to the number of ſix, are attached to the corolla by ſmall
fine threads, nearly of the ſame length with the antherae.
The ovarium is at the top, of a roundiſh form, and ſurmounted by a
ſtyle, of which the ſtigma is of a ſimple form.
The capſule is compoſed of ſix cells, each containing a number of ſeeds.
moſt of which arc unproductive.
I ought to obſerve, that one of the parts of frućtification is often
wanting,
3 E 2 i. I have
AO-4 - VOYAGE IN SEARCH T1793.
I have given this plant the name of dracophyllum verticillatum, becauſe
its flowers are diſpoſed in rings. ~ -
Theſe leaves are rough, and ſlightly dentated, or notched, on the edges.
They leave their impreſſion on the ſtalk as they ſeparate from it, as is the
caſe with all ſorts of dracaena, with which that plant has a great analogy,
even in the texture of the wood it produces. It is therefore of the diviſion
of minocotyledon, although it has a calyx and a corolla, and naturally takes
the next place to the ſpecies of aſparagus,
Explanation of the Figures, Plate XL.
Fig. 1. The plant.
Fig. 2. Bloſſom.
Fig. 3. The corolla magnified and cut obliquely, to ſhew the ſtamina.
Fig. 4. The capſule. -
In examining from the ſummit of theſe mountains a great extent of
breakers which defend the approach to this iſland, we obſerved another
paſſage, at a ſmall diſtance to the weſt of that by which our veſſels had
reached their preſent moorings. Towards the ſouth we had a proſpect
of a delightful valley, ſurrounded with large plantations of cocoa trees,
from amongſt which we ſaw columns of ſmoke ariſing, from the fires
made by the ſavages. Vaſt fields, which appeared to us to be cultivated,
even in the loweſt parts, indicated a great population. The valley was
traverſed by a canal filled with water, which we miſtook for a river, the
different branches of which came from the foot of the eaſtern moun-
tains; but we afterwards found that this canal was filled with ſtagnated
fea-water. We perceived towards the ſouth-weſt the ſhoal, along which
we had ſailed the year before; and we diſtinguiſhed the ſame inlet in it
which the violence of the wind had prevented us from ſounding. It ap-
peared to us a place of ſafety for ſuch veſſels as wiſhed to anchor out of
the reach of breakers. . . . . .'
We were only followed by three natives, who no doubt had ſeen us
ſail along the weſtern coaſt of their iſland, laſt year; for before they had
quitted us, they ſpoke of two veſſels they had ſeen in that direction.
… We
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APRIL.] OF LA PEROUSE. 4 O5
We proceeded for ſome time along the tops of the mountains to-
wards the ſouth-weſt, then we deſcended into a hollow, where we found
two men and a child, who ſhowed no concern with reſpect to us, and did
not quit the rock upon which they were ſeated. When we were cloſe by
them, they ſhewed us a baſket (ſee Plate XXXVIII. Fig. 24), filled with
roots, reſembling thoſe of a kind of ſun-flower called helianthus tuberoſus.
They called them paoua, ſaying that they were good to eat, and they
wanted to ſell us a ſmall quantity.
Perceiving, at about thirty yards diſtance, a thick ſmoke iſſuing from
the midſt of large broken rocks, which offered a good ſhelter from the
wind, we direéted our courſe towards it, and found a young ſavage buſy
roaſting ſome roots, amongſt which we diſtinguiſhed thoſe of the dolichos
tuberoſis. He did not appear ſurprized at our viſit, and ſmiled at us from
the bottom of his cavern, which was filled with a very black ſmoke,
whereby he however did not appear to be at all incommoded.
Near this place the fide of the mountain, laid open by the torrents
which deſcend in the rainy ſeaſon, diſcovered to us cluſters of beautiful
pieces of green ſchorl in a ſoft ſteatite, and below that ſmall fragments of
a very tranſparent rock chryſtal.
In returning to our veſſel we came through a ſmall village, the inhabi-
tants of which left their huts unarmed. They allowed us to examine the
inſide of them, and one of them, without any heſitation, ſold us ſome hu-
man bones which were hanging up over one of their tombs.
We ſoon after arrived on the ſea coaſt, where we found a party of the
natives who followed us, begging ſomething to eat, but as all our provi-
fions were conſumed, I gave them ſome green ſteatite, which I had
brought from the ſummit of one of the mountains; ſome of them cat as
much as two pounds weight of it. *
Whilſt we were embarking in order to return on board, one of the crew
fired his piece in the air to unload it, which ſtruck ſuch a panick in moſt
of the iſlanders who were on the ſhore, that they inſtantly ran off to con-
ceal themſelves in the woods; but ſome of them, confident of our good
intentions
4O6 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
intentions towards them, ſhewed no ſymptoms of fear, but called back
the fugitives, who ſoon rejoined them.
On the 27th I was obliged to remain all day on board, in order to ar-
range and write deſcriptions of various articles which I had colleóted the
day before.
We received a viſit from ſeveral of the natives who ſwam to the veſſel.
They were at great pains to aſſure us that they were not in the number of
thoſe who had committed ačts of hoſtility againſt us, and they told us they
had eaten two of thoſe robbers, or kaya, one of whom had received a ball
in the thigh and another in the belly in the engagement with us, but we
did not give entirc credit to this ſtory, ſuppoſing they had fabricated it to
ſcreen themſelves from ſuſpicion.
They brought with them an inſtrument which they called mbouet, a
name which they likewiſe gave to their tombs; it was formed of a fine
piece of flat ſerpentine ſtone, with ſharp edges, and nearly of an oval
form, perfeótly well poliſhed, and of the length of nearly ſeven inches. It
was perforated with two holes, through each of which paſſed two very
flexible rods, whereby it was fixed to a wooden handle, to which they
were faſtencă with bands made of bat's-ſkin. This inſtrument was ſup-
ported by a pedeſtal made of a cocoa-nut ſhell, which was likewiſe ticd
with ſtrings of the ſame kind, ſome of which were longer (See Plate
XXXVIII, Fig. 19). We could not till then diſcover the uſe of this in-
ſtrument; theſe ſavages told us that it was to cut up the limbs of their
enemies, which they divided amongſt them after a battle. One of them
ſhewed us the manner, by imitating it on one of the ſhip's company, who,
at his deſire, lay down on his back. The ſavage firſt repreſented a combat,
in which he indicated by ſigns that the enemy fell under the ſtrokes
of his javelin and club, which he brandiſhed with great violence. He
then performed a ſort of warlike dance, holding in his hand the inſtru-
ment of murder ; he then ſhewcd us that they begin by opening the
belly with the mboilet, throwing away thc inteſtines, after having torn
them out with an inſtrumcnt (repreſented in Plate XXXVIII. Fig. 20),
t made
APRIL.] OF LA PEROUSE. 407
made of two human cubitus, well poliſhed, and fixed to a very ſtrong
tape. He ſhewed us they next cut off the parts of generation, which
fell to the ſhare of the conqueror. The legs and arms are cut off
at the joints, and diſtributed, as well as the other parts, amongſt the com-
batants to carry home to their families. It is difficult to deſcribe the fe-
rocious avidity with which he repreſented to us the manner in which the
fleſh of the unfortunate vićtim is devoured by them, after being broiled
on a fire of charcoal.
The ſame cannibal gave us likewiſe to underſtand that the fleſh of the
arms and legs is cut into pieces about three inches thick, and that the
muſcular parts are reckoned by theſe people a very delicious morſel. It
was no longer difficult for us to conceive why they felt our legs and arm
with their fingers in a longing manner, at which times they made a ſlight
whiſtling noiſe, produced by ſhutting the teeth, and applying the end
of the tongue to them, then opening their mouths, they gave ſeveral
ſmacks with their lips.
We went on ſhore on the 28th, but not being in ſufficient numbers,
durſt not venture to go far beyond our watering place. We no longer
ſaw in the environs large parties of natives, as on the firſt days after an-
choring here, which made us think that they had returned to their habi-
tations, probably at a confiderable diſtance from this place : indeed how
could ſuch a vaſt number of men have found the means of ſubſiſtence
on a coaſt ſo extremely barren.
Next day (the 29th), we ſet off early, to the number of eighteen, all
well armed, with the intention of aſcending a very high mountain,
ſituated to the ſouth-ſouth-eaſt, and from thence deſcending, if the wea-
ther ſhould prove favourable, into a delightful valley, which we had al-
ready perceived at a great diſtance behind the mountain.
We marched at firſt towards the eaſt along the ſhore, and ſoon entered
an extenſive wood, when, amongſt other birds which we killed, there was
a ſpecies of pie, which I named the fie of New Caledonia. It is entirely
black except the breaſt, ſhoulders and neck, which are white. The bill is
rather jagged at the cxtremity of cach mandible, and is of a light black
from
iOS VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793,
from the root to within one-third of the point, the remainder is yellowiſh.
The feathers of the tail are arranged in rows two by two, the upper ones
being much longer than the others (See Plate XXXIX, in which the bird
is repreſented.)
We had already proceeded above a mile, when we arrived at a village
compoſed of a ſmall number of huts, ſufficiently diſtant from each other
to prevent the flames from communicating in caſe of any unfortunate
conflagration. Two of them had been recently conſumed. We there
ſaw women cooking vićtuals, compoſed of the bark of trees and a variety
of roots, amongſt which I diſcerned thoſe of the hypoxis, of which I have
already made mention. Theſe different articles were put dry into a large
earthen pot, ſupported over a fire by three large ſtones, which ſupplied
the place of a trevet. We obſerved near the entrance to one of thoſe
huts a large heap of human bones, on which the recent effects of fire were
very evident. . . . . . *- - - - *
It was probably an inhabitant of this village who ſtole the ſabre of
Bonvouloir, as related above, for here we found the ſheath and belt ſuſ.
pended over one of their tombs, as a kind of trophy. &
Upon leaving this village, we followed a beaten path to the ſouth-eaſt,
where we were not long before we ſaw ſome Caribbee cabbages (arum
eſculentum), planted near a rivulet, the ſtream of which the inhabitants of
the iſland had turned off lower down to a plantation of drum macrorrhizon.
Farther on we remarked ſome young banana trees planted at five or ſix
yards diſtance from each other, as alſo ſome ſugar canes. ... " t
Soon after this we were ſurrounded by at leaſt forty of the natives, who
came out from the adjaccnt huts, and from ſome ſtraggling cottages ſcat-
tered in an extenſive plain covered with plants and ſhrubs, above which
roſe a ſmall number of cocoa trees; but we were aſtoniſhed to ſec only
very few men amongſt theſe ſavages, all of whom were cither old or in-
firm, and moſt of them cripples. The remainder conſiſted of women
and children, who teſtified much joy at receiving ſome preſents of glaſs
warc which we gave them. We preſumed that the ſtout men were en-
gaged at a diſtance in ſome expedition againſt their neighbours.
We
• * *
s
s
-
s
.
s




MAY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 400
*.
We were about one mile diſtant from the firſt village when we diſco-
wered another twice as large, ſituated on the borders of a ſmall river,
along which we went upon a riſing ground in a ſoutherly direction. Up-
wards of thirty natives came out to meet us, and followed us for ſome
time. We ſoon perceived three others deſcend from the mountains, one
of whom we knew, having received ſeveral viſits from him on board the
Recherche. Several amongſt the natives pointed him out to us as a chief
of great diſtinétion, whom they called Aliki.
We ſat down on the borders of the ſmall river to take ſome refreſh-
ment, and to prevent the danger of any ſurprize from the ſavages, we in-
vited them to fit down. Aliki immediately complied with our invitation,
and his example was followed by the others. The water being a few
paces below us, the ſavages filled our bottles as faſt as we emptied them.
After breakfaſt we aſcended towards the ſouth accompanied by Aºki
and three other natives, who teſtified a ſtrong deſire to follow us. Some
cocoa and banana trees, planted on the leaſt rugged of the borders of the
hollow formed by the waters of the ſmall river, pointed out to us the reſi-
dence of ſome of the natives. We found there a hut exactly like thoſe
which we had ſecn before. Aliki ſaid the hut belonged to him. It was
ſurrounded with ſeveral of a new ſpecies of fig-tree, the fruit of which
thoſe people eat, after having expoſed it to the fire for ſome time in earthen
veſſels, in order to extraćt its corroſive quality.
Clouds, brought on by a briſk gale from the ſouth-eaſt, covered the
tops of the mountains about ten in the morning, and occaſioned a heavy
ſhower of rain, of which the ſavages took ſcarcely any notice. They did
not even ſeek for any ſhelter, whilſt we retired underneath the thickett
trees. As ſoon as it ceaſed we continued our route, and they followed as
with many marks of friendſhip. One of them, wiſhing to relieve a ſailor
who was loaded with a large tin-box, filled with a variety of objects of
natural hiſtory, carried it for above four hours.
We ſoon after croſſed over the ſmall river, on the banks of which I
obſerved the acanthus ilicifolius. We then aſcended very rugged rocks
for a conſiderable time, and were under great obligations to the fa-
3 F vages,
4 [O VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793:
vages, who exerted themſelves in ſupporting us by the arms, to prevent
our falling. |
Each of them carried an axe of ſerpentine ſtone; and one of then
wiſhing to ſhow us how they made uſe of them to cut wood, hacked off
a branch of the melaleuca latifolia, about four inches thick.
It was not till after a number of ſtrokes, that he was able to make a
ſlight notch in it, then he broke it by forcibly bending down the end of
it; they all ſhewed the greateſt ſurprize at ſeeing us cut down in a ſhort
time, with a military axe, ſome of the largeſt trees in the foreſt. *
We had juſt reached the ſummit of one of the higheſt of thoſe moun-
tains, when one of our people made ſigns to the ſavages that he wiſhed to
have ſome water to drink. Immediately two of them offered to go and
fetch ſome from a hollow that appeared to be above half a mile diſtant.
They ſet off, and we ſoon loſt ſight of them. As they were a long time
before they returned, we were afraid they had gone away with the bottles
we had entruſted them with, but at laſt they returned, and appeared
pleaſed that they had it in their power to offer us ſome very pure water to
quench our thirſt. f
After this we deſcended towards the ſouth-eaſt and croſſed a fine valley,
where I made a copious colle&tion of plants, among which were the
acroſiichum auſtrale, and ſeveral new ſpecics of limodorum. -
A very heavy rain obliged us to ſeek for ſhelter in the hollows of the
rocks, where we remained for ſome time. We invited the ſavages who
accompanied us to partake of our repaſt, but were much ſurpriſed to find
thoſe cannibals reject with diſdain the ſaltcd pork which was offered them.
The badneſs of the weather having prevented our continuing all night
on the mountains, we returned towards our veſſels, going in a weſterly di-
rection, in order to follow the declivity into a large valley, parallel with
that which we had juſt croſſed. I there obſerved many new ſpecies of
paſſiflora. The ginger, amomum zingiber, grew there abundantly, but the
natives told us they made no uſe of it. As ſoon as we arrived on the
ſhore, where we found our boats in waiting, to take us on board the .
ſhips, they quitted us, and went off to the caſtward.
I em-
MAY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 4 l 1
I employed the whole of the 30th in deſcribing and aſſorting the nu-
merous colle&tion of articles of natural hiſtory, which I had made the
day before.
MAY 1ſt. This day we went towards the ſouth-eaſt, and after having
penetrated a conſiderable way into the woods, we arrived at a hut ſur-
rounded with paliſadcs, behind which were a woman and two children,
who appeared frightened on our approach, but they reſumed their courage
upon our preſenting them with ſome pieces of cloth, and a few glaſs
beads.
We next went towards two great fires that were kindled by the ſavages
in one of the moſt gloomy parts of the foreſt. They diſperſed as ſoon
as they perceived us, leaving two baſkets filled with the bark of trees.
Soon after we arrived on the borders of ſome marſhes, where we killed
ſeveral beautiful birds of the genus muſcicapa : they had been attracted
thither by the ſwarms of muſquitoes, which ſerved them for food. Fur-
ther on we found two young girls who had juſt lighted a fire: they were
dreſſing for their repaſt different ſorts of roots, amongſt which I recog-
nized ſeveral belonging to plants which I had met with under the ſhade
of the large trees in the foreſt. The girls left their proviſions for ſome
time, retiring as we approached them.
On our quitting the wood, we met with ſeveral ſavages who accom-
panied us to our landing place. They were much amuſed with ſeeing
Citizen Riche's dog purſue ſome of the natives who were at a conſider-
able diſtance, and whom he ſoon overtook, though they ran as faſt as they
could. As he did them no injury, thoſe who were with us begged us to
ſet him at ſome women who were then coming out of the wood, and
were anticipating their fright, but we would not be perſuaded to comply
with their requeſt.
We were witneſs, on arriving at the ſhore, to a fact which proves the
great corruption of manners amongſt theſe cannibals. There were two
girls, the oldeſt of whom was not more than cighteen, who were ſhew-
ing to our ſailors that part which they arc accuſtomed to conceal with
the fringed girdle mentioned above, and which forms the whole of their
3 F 2 clothing.
4 lº VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
*
clothing. A nail, or ſomething of equal value, was fixed upon as the
price of this favour; but they took care to make their curious cuſtomers
pay beforehand.
Upon returning to the ſhip, I found a chief who had dined at the table
with the officers. He had come in his canoe, accompanied by his wife,
whom he would never allow to come on board, notwithſtanding our re-
peated requeſts to that purpoſe.
On the 2d we went a ſhooting in the great woods, which we had not
explored, to the ſouth-eaſt, where we killed a prodigious quantity of
birds. We ftopped in a ſmall village, where we ſaw over two tombs
pieces of wood rudely carved: the inhabitants told us that it was forbidden
to approach them ; but they conſented very readily to ſell us in exchange
for ſome pieces of cloth a human ſcull that was ſuſpended over another
tomb, the coronal bone of which was fraćtured on the left ſide. They
informed us, that the warrior it belonged to had been killed in battle by
a club. *
Next morning early, twenty of us ſet off with an intention to croſs the
mountains, and from thence to deſcend into the extenſive valley, wherc,
in one of our excurſions, we had deſcried at a great diſtance a conſiderabic
number of cultivated fields. It was probable that we ſhould there meet
with a great number of inhabitants, but we were ſufficiently well armed
to be able to repel any attack which they might venture to make
At firſt we followed the coaſt, advancing towards the weſt, and penc-
trating from time to time into the woods, we ſaw a number of inhabit-
ants quit their huts, and leave behind them a net which they had ſpread
out to dry. It appeared that that implement of fiſhing is very rare
amongſt theſe ſavages: its common ſize is about eight yards in length,
and eighteen inches in breadth. They ſhewed us but very few of them
during our whole ſtay in the Iſland, and no price could tempt any of
them to part with one. g
We perceived near this place a great quantity of broken ſhells of fiſh,
which had ſerved the Iſlanders for food. We found ſeveral of the ſpecies
known by the name of benitier, of the length of twelve or thirteen
inches,
MAY.] ÖF LA PEROUSE. A 3
inchcs. They ſtill bore the marks of the ſire which had ſerved to dreſs
the animal contained in them.
The women principally are employed in fiſhing for ſhell-fiſh. We ſaw
ſome of them from time to time, oppoſite to where we lay at anchor, who
advanced into the water up to their waiſts and gathered great quantities,
which they diſcovered in the ſand, by means of pointed ſticks with which
they groped for them.
We had already gone about three miles along the coaſt without finding
any ſtream of water, when three young ſavages came to meet us, and
perſuaded us to follow them to their cottage, not far out of our road.
We then found a ſpring, below which they had dug ſome trenches to
condućt the water to ſome plants of the arum macrorrhizoil, the roots of
which they cat.
We were on the ſlope of a ſmall hill, under the ſhade of ſome cocoa
trees. One of the ſavages, whom I requeſted to procure us ſome of their
fruit, climbed to the top of the tree with an extraordinary degree of agility.
We ſoon after continued our courſe to the weſtward, The air was ſe-
rene, and the heat exceſſive, and we were attacked by a cloud of muſqui-
toes, which tormented us very much, by ſtinging every part of the body,
not cyen ſparing our eyes and ears. Fortunately a breeze of wind ſpring-
ing up ſoon after, relieved us from their perſecutions, by diſperſing them.
Soon after this we arrived on the borders of a deep canal, which went
in an inland direction to the foot of a very craggy mountain. This
canal ſerved as a harbour for the iſlanders, three of whom we ſaw enter it
in a double canoe, which they immediately faſtened with a rope tied to
the foot of a tree on the ſame ſide we were. They then went at a ſlow
pace towards the ſmall hills on the ſouth-eaſt, pretchding not to have per-
ceived us. Their canoe was the only one in the harbour. We made uſe
of it to croſs to the other ſide, where we found a ſmall cottage, the plan-
tations contiguous to which had been recently laid waſte. We ſtill per-
ceived ſome remains of Caribee cabbages, and of ſugar canes. The tops of
all the cocoa trees had been cut off, and perhaps inhabitants had faller:
vićtims to the voracity of the barbarians who had thus deſtroyed them.
rºl.
i \
414 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
Till then we had never met with any of the tombs of the ſavages, ex-
cept cloſe by their huts, but we now found one at a great diſtance from
any habitation whatever, on the ſide of the road which we purſued. It
differed from the others, being built of ſtone from the baſe till about half
way up.
We halted about noon, under the ſhade of ſeveral caſuarina equéſeti-
folia, and of ſeveral new ſpecies of cerbera, which grew on the banks of
a rivulet, where we quenched our thirſt, and in which we found ſome
fragments of roche de corne, brought down by the water. We caught two
ſea-ſnakes (coluber laticandotus), which we broiled and eat, but found
very tough and ill taſted.
We were about eleven miles diſtant from our veſſels when freſh
marks of devaſtation made us lament the lot of the wretched inhabitants,
whom revenge often prompts to the commiſſion of the moſt horri-
ble exceſſes. They had deſtroyed the principal habitations, and cut
off the tops of all the cocoa-trees about them, having only ſpared two
ſmall ſheds which were covered with ſpongy bark of the melaleuca lati-
folia.
Preſently after a foreſt of cocoa trees, whoſe tops we perceived at the
diſtance of a mile and a half to the weſt, together with ſeveral columns
of ſmoke which roſe in different direétions, were indications of a great
population. We direéted our courſe toward this place for ſome time,
but the marſhy ground which we muſt have croſſed to reach it, cauſed
us to abandon our deſign; beſides, the day drew towards a cloſe. We
then went ſouthward in ſearch of a commodious ſituation to paſs the
night in, when we ſoon pitched on an eminence, the difficult acceſs to
which ſecured us from being ſurpriſed by the ſavages. We lighted a
fire, for the cold was ſharp and piercing on theſe high grounds, and we
felt it the more ſenſibly, as during the day we had experienced in the
plain a very great degree of heat.
I gave all the birds which I did not mean to preſerve to thoſe of the
ſhip's crew who accompanied us, and amongſt thoſe which they broiled
immediately for our ſupper were ſeveral of the corvus caledonicus, and
ſome
MAY.] OF LA PEROUSE. A 15
ſome very large pigeons of a new ſpecies, which I had before met with
on the firſt days after our arrival.
We all ſupped and then went to ſleep, leaving two of our number to
watch by turn, for it was to be feared that the light of our fire would
bring ſome of the iſlanders to us. In a very ſhort time we were appriſed
that the light of ſeveral torches, with which the ſavages were approach-
ing our retreat in an eaſterly direétion, was perceived towards the foot
of the mountains. In an inſtant we were all on our legs to obſerve their
motions, and prepared to give them ſuch a reception as circumſtances
might render neceſſary in caſe of attack; but after traverſing ſeveral ſmall
hills, they deſcended towards the coaſt, getting farther from us to the
eaſtward. Perhaps theſe cannibals were upon ſome expedition againſt
their enemies. As we did not appear to be the obječt they were in
queſt of, we immediately lay down again to ſleep, truſting to the vigi-
lance of our centinels.
4th. At day-break we aſcended towards the ſouth-eaſt, and were
not long before we reached the ſummit of the mountain, from whence
we perceived, toward the weſt-ſouth-weſt, on the ſea coaſt, the great
opening of the canal which traverſes the plain we propoſed to viſit.
We ſoon deſcended into a valley, nearly about the middle of which
ſtood a delightful grove, to appearance planted by the hand of man, but
it was only the goodneſs of the ſoil, moiſtened by the water from the
neighbouring mountains, that rendered the buſhes ſo ſtrong and luxu
riant. I then collected a great number of plants, amongſt which I found
a new kind of fern of the myriotheca ſpecies, the talleſt of which roſe to
the height of twelve feet, although the ſtem was not more than three
inches and three quarters in circumferencC.
On leaving the grove we perceived two natives about three hundred
yards below us, going towards the plain, of which we now diſcovered
the full extent. They looked at us without ſtopping, notwithfianding
the ſigns of invitation we made them to come to us. One of them car-
ried on his ſhoulder, at the end of a ſtick, a baſket, in all probability filled
with roots.
\We
416 VOYAGE IN SEATRCH [1793.
We had only a few more ſmall hills to croſs before we reached the
plain, when ſeveral of our companions, apprehenſive that we ſhould be
in want of vićtuals if we went much farther, or perhaps that we ſhould
meet with numerous parties of ſavages, left us and returned to the ſhips
early in the day. Our number was now reduced to fifteen, upon their
departure; nevertheleſs we continued our journey. We ſoon found by
the ſide of a path which ſeemed much frequented by the ſavages, ſeveral
cabbage-palms, and having refreſhed ourſelves with the tender leaves
from the tops of thoſe trees, we deſcended into a hollow, where ſeveral
fine aleurites added to our repaſt a plentiful deſſert of fruit, the kernels
of which we found of a very agreeable flavour.
The quartz and mica which were ſpread over a large ſpace, formed in
that place a foliated rock of a very brilliant appearance, compoſed of
a thin ſtrata.
We at length gained the plain, where the melancholy fight of a habi-
tation entirely deſtroyed, and cocoa trees cut up by the roots, furniſhed
us with freſh proofs of the barbarity of the natives.
Farther on we ſaw plantations of yams, potatoes, &c. We proceeded
for ſome time towards the ſouth, and were ſurpriſed at not ſeeing any of
the ſavages, when I perseived an old man employcd in pulling up the
roots of the dolichos tuberoſus, which he gave to a child to clean. He did
not ſeem in the leaſt intimidated on obſerving us approach him, but every
feature of the child was expreſſive of the moſt violent apprehenſion. The
old man had loſt one eye, which he told us had been knocked out by a
ſtone, and we thought we recogniſed him to be one of thoſe inhabitants
who had come ſeveral times to viſit us on board of our veſſels.
This man accompanied us along the path in a ſouth-eaſterly direction
acroſs the plain, but had much difficulty in keeping up with us, for he
had been wounded in one leg, where we perceived two great ſcars oppo-
ſite to each other, as if it had been pierced through and through with a
dart.
On both ſides of the road we ſaw ſtraggling huts at great diſtances
from each other, ſurrounded with cocoa trees. Only a few ſavagcs ap-
peared
May.] OF LA PEROUSE. 4 17
peared at a diſtance in the middle of the vaſt plain. On our right lay a
thick foreſt of cocoa trees extending to the foot of the mountains, on
the edge of which we perceived a great number of huts.
We had gone a little more than a mile with the ſavage, when he
perſuaded us to ſtop in the neighbourhood of a habitation, probably
his own, for he invited us to gathor the fruit of the cocoa trees which
furrounded it ourſelves, excuſing himſelf from climbing the trees on ac-
count of his wounds. I gave him ſome pieces of cloth of different co-
dours, and ſome nails, which he ſecmed to value highly.
Soon after another ſavage came to us, and both followed us till we
came to the banks of a branch of the great canal which croſſed the plain;
it was fillcd with ſtagnant water, equally ſalt with that of the ſea.
We perceived at a diſtance ſome women and children, when our two
favages left us, after having pointed out the path which conducted us to
the mountains. -
At the ſame inſtant ſome other natives ſet fire to the dry graſs at a great
diſtance before us on the ſide of the path which we were following, and
immediately diſappeared in the woods.
After proceeding about half an hour, I arrived on a very agreeable emi-
nence, where the natives had built theniſelves ſheds about ſix feet in
height, in order to enjoy the freſh air. They were of a ſemicircular
form, and open at bottom all round to the height of about one foot, to
admit a free circulation of air. We found no ſavages in cither of two
neighbouring huts, which were built near a bog, ſurrounded with the
hibiſcus tiliaceus ; but contiguous to them we ſaw a large cultivated field,
covered with yams, potatoes, and a fort of hypoxis, the roots of which
thoſe people eat, and which grows ſpontaneouſly in their foreſts.
It was already one hour after dark, when we at laſt arrived at the ſum-
mit of the mountains ; from whence, looking in a north-weſt direction,
we perceived the lights of our veſſels. At ſix or eight hundred paces
below were ſeveral fircs, lightcd by the natives. The cold compelled us
likewiſe to kindle a very large one, round which we ſat down to refreſh
ourſelves, after which we went to ſleep, leaving two ſentinels to guard
3 G , tWO
A 18. VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
two paſſages by which the iſlanders might come to ſurprize us, but nonc
6f them attempted to diſturb our repoſe. Only at day-break the ſentinci
who was to the north-caſt eſpied three of them approaching very ſlowly,
but they returned back on hearing him cry out to warn us of their
coming. S. &
5th. All our proviſions being conſumed, we felt ſenſibly the neceſſity of
returning on board. I could not, however, reſiſt the deſire I had to ſpend
a few hours in viſiting a charming grove of trees, ſituated on the other ſide of
the mountain, at a ſmall diſtance from the place where we had paſſed the
night. I there obſerved a great quantity of plants, which I had not yet
found in any of the excurſions I had made in this iſland. They belonged
chiefly to the claſs of the ſilver tree and the trumpet flower.
I will here give a deſcription of one of the fineſt ſhrubs which grows
on theſe heights. It forms a genus which I call antholoma, and which
ought to be placed amongſt the ſpecies of the plaqueminicrs.
The calyx, compoſed of from two to four leaves of an oval form, often
falls off when the flower blows. - --
The corolla is of one picce in the form of a cup, and irregularly indented
on the edges.
The ſtamina are numerous (about an hundred), and attached to a fleſhy
receptacle.
The ovarium is of a pyramidal form, quadrangular, ſlightly funk into
the receptacle, and ſurmounted by a ſtyle terminated by a pointed ſtigma.
The fruit has four cells filled with a great number of ſeeds; it was not
yet ripe, but I think it becomes a capſule. *
I have diſtinguiſhed a ſhrub by the name of antholoma montama, many
plants of which I obſerved fifteen feet in height. Its leaves are alternate,
very ftrong, and, as well as the flowers, are only to be found at the cxtre-
mity of the branches.
Explanation of the Figures in Phate XLI,
Fig. 1. Branch of the antholoma montana,
Fig. 2. Flower.
* * *
Fig. 3,
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nuºrººººººººººº-

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s

MAY.] g OF LA PEROUSE. 419
Fig. 3. Receptacle, ſtamina, and ovarium.
Fig. 4. Corolla. * --
Fig. 6. Stamina magnified.
One of the geographers of our company having left us about this time
for the diſtance of rather more than half a mile, in order to aſcertain the
poſition of the ſhoals which he diſcovered from a high peak, received a
viſit from a ſavage, who approached him in a threatening manner; he was
armed with a dart and a club, and we were afraid he intended to attack
him, but he contented himſelf with examining the inſtruments which he
was uſing, without giving him the ſmalleſt cauſe of complaint.
We arrived at our veſſels about noon. I obſerved along the coaſt a double
canoe with two ſails. It was conſtrućted like thoſe of the iſlanders of
New Caledonia, but the men who were in it ſpoke the language of the
natives of the Friendly Iſlands. They were cight in number, being ſeven
men and one woman, all very muſcularly built (See Plate XXXIV.) They
told us that the iſland from whence they came was a day's ſail to the eaſt
of our moorings, and that the name of it was Aouvea ; it was doubtleſs
the iſland of Beaupré which they meant.
Theſe iſlanders, who were quite naked, had the end of the prepuce tied
to the lower part of the belly by a cord of the outer covering of the cocoa
nut, which went twice round them. They know the uſe of iron, and ap-
peared much more intelligent than the natives of New Caledonia.
I was much ſurprized to ſee one of the planks of their canoes covered
with a coat of varniſh ; and it appeared to have belonged to ſome Euro-
pean veſſel, which I was convinced of when I found that the powder of
lead formed a great part in the compoſition of the varniſh. Without doubt
the plank had belonged to a veſſel of ſome civilized nation wrecked on
this coaſt. I requeſted the ſavages to inform us of what they knew con-
cerning the plank; they ſet ſail ſoon after to the weſt, promiſing to re-
turn next day to bring us information 3. but they did not keep their word,
and we never had an opportunity of ſeeing them again.
Whcn we returned, we were informed that the ſame day that we had left
the ſhip on our excurſion, the ſavages had attempted to ſeize the batchets
3 G 2 (ºf
4'20. VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
of our wood-cutters, whom they had attacked with ſtones, but two
muſket ſhots had been ſufficient to diſperſe them.
I employed the whole of the 0th to deſcribe and arrange the numerous
collection of articles of natural hiſtory which I had brought with me from
the mountains.
Next day the intelligence of the death of Captain Huon, which we
learnt at day-break, ſpread a general ſorrow amongſt all thoſe concerned
in the expedition. This ſkilful naval officer had fallen a ſacrifice to a
hećtic fever about one o'clock in the morning, after an illneſs of ſeveral
months. He met death with the greateſt coolneſs, and was interred, ac-
cording to his particular deſire, near the centre of the iſland of Pudyona,
favoured by the veil of night. He had requeſted that no kind of morru-
ment might be cre&ted for him, apprehenſive that it might lead to a diſ-
covery of his burial place by the inhabitants of New Caledonia.
Soon after ſun-riſe eight of us went aſhore, and penetrated into the
woods in a weſt-ſouth-weſt direction. We ſoon arrived at a cottage,
from whence came a native carrying in his hand a maſk, which he agreed
to ſell to me for two joiner's chiffels. This maſk was cut out of a piece
of the wood of the cocoa tree (See Plate XXXVII. Fig. 10.), but much
better carved than the figures we had ſeen in other places at the entrance
into their houſes. He covered, his face with it ſeveral times, peeping
through the holes made in the upper part of it. There was an opening
for the mouth, but there were nonc for the eyes. They probably make uſe
of thoſe maſks to prevent being known by their enemies when they un-
dertake any hoſtile enterprize.
We then advanced towards two fires lighted cloſe by the huts, where
we found a man and woman dreſſing figs of a new ſpecies, which they
had placed upon the fire in a great earthen pot, without water, to take
away the corroſive quality. They called thoſe figs ouyou.
I remarked two children at the fire, regaling themſelves with ſpi-
ders of a new ſpecies, which I had obſerved frequently in the woods,
where they ſpread their webs of ſuch ſtrength, as frequently to incom-
mode us very much in our progreſs. They firſt killed them, covering
them
MAY.] OF LA PEROUSE, w! 2 1
them up in a great earthen veſſel, which they heated on a briſk fire. They
then broiled and eat them. They ſwallowed at leaſt one hundred of them
in our preſence. We ſaw afterwards in the ſame iſland ſcycral other in-
habitants cagerly ſeeking the ſame kind of food. &
Such an extravagant and yet ſo gencral a taſte amongſt ſo many nu-
merous tribes cauſed us great ſurprize, although we knew that ſome Eu-
ropeans eat ſpiders, and in preference ſuch as are found in cellars, which
they affirm taſte like nuts.
The inhabitants of New Caledonia call this a ſpecies of nougui, which I
diſtinguiſh by the name of aranca edulis (ſpider which the Caledonians
ëat.). This ſpider is repreſented in Plate XII. Fig. 4. The ſitua-
tion of its cyes (See Fig 5 and 6.) which are eight in number, two
being near the middle of its back, at a great diſtance from the others,
make me give it a place in a new ſection of a black colour. Its back is
grey, and above is covered with ſilver down; between the eyes are four
ſpots of a brown colour; below it is black. The lower part of the belly
is of the ſame colour as the upper part of the back, and is marked with
from eight to ten ſpots of a brown colour. On the ſides are ſix greyiſh
lines in an obliquc direction, and below ſeveral faun-coloured ſpots. The
legs, which are alſo of a faun-colour and covered with claws of a ſilver
grey, are blackiſh towards their extremity.
One of the fuſileers who accompanied us had loſt onc of his piſtols;
we informed the inhabitants of this circumſtance, and promiſed them
a reward if they would bring it to us. It was with conſiderable pleaſure
that we ſaw, an hour after we had quitted them, a ſavage come run-
ning towards us with the piſtol, which he ſaid he had found on the
ſands. In fact, the ſoldier remembers having left it in the place where
we had dined. A piece of cloth and a waiſtcoat proved a very agreeable
recompenſe to the iſlander. He followed us for ſome time accom-
panica by another Caledonian ; then bid us adieu, pronouncing the
word alaoué, bowing ſlightly with his head, retiring with an appear-
ance of great ſatisfaction. * ,
When
422 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
When we had reached the fhore, one of us fired his piece as a ſignal
to the ſhip's company, that a boat might be ſent off for us; the noiſe
of the exploſion collected above eighty of the natives around us. We
invited them to ſit down as faſt as they arrived, in order to prevent them
from coming too cloſe, and notwithſtanding the diſproportion of our
number, (for we were only eight,) they all agreed to our requeſt. One
of theſe ſavages had a few tolerably ſweet oranges, which he conſented
to fell to me for a pair of ſciſſars.
We learned, on arriving on board, that ſeveral perſons belonging to the
Eſperance, being in a canoe, had been affailed this morning with a ſhower
of ſtones by the natives, on which it was found neceſſary to fire ſeveral
muſket ſhot to make them retire into the wood. It muſt, however, be
allowed, that this conteſt was owing to the imprudence of one of our
men, who, wiſhing to keep the Caledonians at a diſtance, had pointed
his piece at them, which went off, through his aukwardneſs. *
8th. General Dentrecaſteaux gave the command of the Eſperance to
Dauribeau.
I was very buſy during the greater part of the day, at a work which
was indiſpenſably neceſſary for the preſervation of my collections. In
the afternoon I went on ſhore, and ſoon after I perceived a number of
the iſlanders who had attacked our fiſhermen, in order to carry off both
the net and the fiſh that were caught. We were obliged to firc at leaſt
twenty muſket ſhot before they could be entirely diſperſed. They ſtood
firm on the ſhore the whole time, returning our muſketry with their
flings, a ſtone from one of which wounded the maſter-gunner of the
Eſperance ſeriouſly in the arm ; they then gave way, but in a few ſc-
conds returned ancw to the attack; however, when they perceived two
of thcir number fall, in conſequence of our fire, and wounded ſo as to be
fearcely able to crawl to the neighbouring wood, they were ſeized with
a general panic, and fled, nor did any others venture to renew the attack.
At the ſame time that this encounter began, the Commander in Chief
of the expedition left his veſſel to go on board the Eſperance; he im-
mediately
4.
MAY.] t OF LA PEROUSE 423
, mediately direéted his boat toward the ſhore, but the ſavages were cn-
tirely diſperſed before he arrived there. -
Before, our fiſhermen had been interrupted by the iſlanders, thcy
had caught ſeveral ſpecies of the ſcorpaena, amongſt which was that
known by the name of ſºorpaena digitata pricked one of our ſeamen ſo
acutely in the hand, that for ſeveral hours he felt a very violent pain
through his whole arm.
9th. This morning at day break we went aſhore at the neareſt landing
place to our ſhip, and ſix of us, well armed, penetrated into the woods,
advancing for a long time to the ſouth-ſouth-weſt. I found on that cx-
curſion many plants which I had not before met with.
I ſoon obſerved a large bread-fruit tree, which grew near the middle
of the mountain, being the ſecond I had met with in the iſland. I
took from it three ſuckers, which I planted in a box in which I had
put thoſe I had taken in the Friendly Iſlands. Their leaves were not
ſo wide apart as thoſe of the latter, perhaps they might not produce
ſuch excellent fruit. But after the care which I obſerved the natives
take of that which I had ſeen in a village to the ſouth-eaſt of our
ſhip, I could not doubt but that they ſet a great value on this tree; it
was planted in a very good ſoil, and ſurrounded with ſtrong paliſades.
Neither of thoſe trees yielded fruit at that time, but had a great number
of male flowers.
We had already advanced a great way up the mountain, when ſome
of the people belonging to our veſſel, who went on ſhore, diſcharged
their pieces before they returned on board. The report of the muſketry
made us reſolve to direét our courſe toward them immediately, appre-
henſive of their being engaged with the ſavages. w
Night approached, and we went off to go on board our veſſel, but
the wind blew from eaſt-ſouth-eaſt with ſuch violence, and the current
was ſo ſtrong, that they were driven rapidly to weſtward; we had cycn
great difficulty in making the Eſperance, which we left half an hour
afterwards to go on board the Recherche, as the weather had become
} * } * :
f
more favourable.
The
424 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
The natives of New Caledonia are in general of the middle ſize, we
however, ſaw one who was more than ſix feet in height, but very ill
built. Their hair is woolly; their cuſtom of pulling it up by the roots
is very general ; but we ſaw ſome of them who let their beards grow.
The colour of their ſkin is as dark as that of the inhabitants of Diemen's
land. They do not cover themſeves like the former with charcoal duſt,
though we remarked a few amongſt them who had blackencá a part
of their breaſts with it, tracing thereon broad ſtrokes in an oblique di-
rećtion which they call foum, in their language; many of them were
adorned with necklaces, like that repreſented in Plate XXXVII, Fig. 4;
theſe necklaces were made of twiſted threads, ſuſpended from which
they uſually carried at the end of a bit of ſtring, a ſmall piece of bone
very indifferently carved, which appeared to be a human bone. Their
arms were ſometimes ornamented with bracelets cut, ſome from j.
others of quartz, or very hard ſtones. (See Plate XXXVII. Fig. 5 and 6.)
Theſe warlike people devote the greateſt attention to the manufacture
of their arms, which they poliſh perfeótly well. Their clubs are of a
great varicty of forms, ſome of which are to be ſeen in Plate XXXVII.
I was much ſurpriſed to find that they were unacquainted with the
uſe of bows. r
Their javelins, which are commonly fifteen feet in length, are not
more than two and a half inches in circumference in the middle. I ad-
mired the ingenious method they had invented to accelerate the mo-
tion of thoſe javelins when they throw them : For that purpoſe they
employ a piece of very claſtic cord, made of the covering of the cocoa
nut and fiſh ſkin, ore extremity of which they fix to the end of thc
fore-finger, and the other which cnds in a ſort of round button, is
twiſted round the crid of the dart, but in ſuch a manner as to quit its
hold as ſoon as that weapon is thrown into the air. (See Plate XXXV.)
I did not perceive amongſt theſe iſlanders any confirmed ſymptom
of the venercal diſeaſe, although many of them had a ſwelling of con-
ſiderable ſize on the organs of generation, and others had obſtructions
of the ſeminal glands. - .* . . .
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MAY.] OF LA PERC) USF. 423
The voracity of which the Caledonians had given us evident proofs, pre-
*vented the General from giving them the hc and ſhe goats as he
intended : they had, doubtleſs, devoured the hogs and the two dogs, of
which Captain Cook had made a preſent to one of their chiefs. They
ſcarcely took any care of their fowls; I only ſaw three hens and one
cock during our ſtay in the iſland.
We did not perceive amongſt them any of the articles given then by
Captain Cook. Perhaps theſe riches had been the cauſe of the misfor-
tunes of the inhabitants of this coaſt, by exciting their neighbours to
come and plunder then.
I remarked with aſtoniſhment that the authority of their chieſs had al-
ways appeared very inconſiderable in our various dealings with the fa-
vages; but I was not leſs ſurpriſed to find that they exerciſed great
power when their own private intereſt was at ſtake, for they generally
ſeized upon ſuch articles as their ſubjećts had received from us.
While we were in New Caledonia we enjoyed a pretty ſerene ſky.
The winds varied from the north-eaſt to the ſouth, and the ſtrongeſt
were the eaſt and the ſouth-caſt.
Our moorings were in lat. 20° 17' 20" ſouth, and 162° 16' 2S' eaſt
longitude.
The variation of thc necdle was 9° 30' towards the eaſt.
The mercury in the barometer never roſe above 28 inches 2 lines and
2-1 oths, and never fell below 28 inches 1 line and 4-1 oths.
Notwithſtanding the exceſſive heat which we felt on the coaſt, the
thermometer never exceeded 25°, and on board never roſe above 21".
The tides were not obſervable above once a day, when we lay at anº
chor. The flood took place at half paſt ſix, and the waters roſe in pers
pendicular height four feet ſeven inches.
We could not gather the leaſt intelligence during our ſtay at New
Caledonia, concerning the fate of thoſe unfortunate navigators who were
the objećt of our reſearches. It is not, however, improbable, that this
dangerous and almoſt inacceſſible coaſt proved fatal to them. We know
that La Pérouſe was to have explored the weſtern coaſt of it, and one
* ; 3 H is
w"
426 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
is chilled with horror in reflecting on the fate that would await thoſe
unfortunate ſeamen, ſhould a ſhipwreck have obliged them to ſeek for
refuge amongſt the cannibals that inhabit it.
C H A P. XIV.
Departure from New Caledonia—Interview with the Inhabitants of the Iſland
of St. Croix—Their Treachery—One of theſe Savages ſlightly pierces with
an Arrow the Forehead of one of our Seamen, who died ſome Time after in
Conſequence of the Wound—Singular Conſtruction of their Canoes—Piew
of the Southern Part of the Archipelago of Solomon—Interview with its
Inhabitants—Their Perfidy—The Northern Coaſt of Luiſiade reconnoi-
tred—Interview with its Inhabitants—Dangers of that Navigation—
Sail through Dampier's Straits in order to recominoitre the North Coaſt of
New Britain—Death of General Dentrecaſteaux—The Scurvy makes great
Ravages in both Ships—Death of the Baker of the Recherche—Caff An-
chor at Waygiou.
10th MAY.
ARLY in the morning we ſet ſail from New Caledonia, but were
no ſooner in the open ſea than we were becalmed near a long range
of rocks, which we perceived to eaſtward, and againſt which the ſea
broke in a tremendous manner; we however got clear of them, favoured by
a light breeze from the ſouth-eaſt: ſailed by thcm in a longitudinal
direction on the 11th and 12th, and on the 13th deſcried beyond that
chain to the weſt the iſland of Moulin, at about 1.7 miles diſtance, and
afterwards the Huon Iſlands.
Next day our veſſel was on the point of being daſhed to pieces on the
rocks with which theſe iſlands are ſurrounded, when at day-break WC
perceived the danger of our ſituation. We immediately tacked about
* * and
MAY.] OF LA PEROUSE 427
and ſtood off from them, and diſcovered before the evening that theſe
rocks were connected with thoſe along which we had ſailed the year
before.
Soon after we ſteered for the iſland of Saint Croix, which, early on the
morning of the 20th, we perceived to the north-weſt, at about twenty-
two miles diſtance.
Next day, about four in the afternoon, being then three miles diſtant
from the ſhore, we perceived two natives coming towards us in a canoe
with an out-rigger. They kept at a great diſtance till five other canoes
had joined them, when they came nearer to our ſhip. One only of theſe
canoes carried three ſavages, the others contained no more than two.
They addreſſed their converſation to us, and made ſigns for us to land
upon their iſland, but none of them would venture on board our ſhip,
notwithſtanding repeated invitations to that effect. The boldeſt of them
did not come nearer than about fifty yards. They were armed with bows
and arrows, and their whole dreſs conſiſted of necklaces and bracelets or-
namented with ſhells.
As night approached, our ſailors worked the ſhip to ſtand on different
tacks, when the ſavages left us and returned to the coaſt, but ſeveral hours
afterwards, notwithſtanding the darkneſs of the night, we were viſited by
another canoe, the ſavages in which certainly thought that we underſtood
their language, for they ſpoke to us for a long time in a very low tone of
voice, but, not receiving any anſwer, they at length returned to their
iſland.
22d. At day-break we approached the coaſt, and ſoon perceived twelve
canoes making towards us. They haſtened alongſide of our veſſel, and the
moſt of them were loaded with different kinds of fruit, amongſt which I
remarked the bread-fruit, but of a ſmaller ſize, and not ſo good in quality
as what we had met with at the Friendly Iſlands; it was not, however, of
the wild ſort, for it only containcó a very ſmall quantity of ſeed.
We were not a little ſurprized to obſerve that thoſe iſlanders ſet very
little value on the iron which we offered them, though we could not
doubt that they knew the uſe of it, for one of them had a piece of a
3 H 2 joiners
A28 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [3793.
joiner's chiffel with a wooden handle, of the ſame kind as their ſtone
hatchets; but when we ſhowed them ſome pieces of red cloth, their ad-
miration, expreſſed by the words youli, youli, gaves us hopes of ſucceed-
ing better with theſe articles in bartering for their commodities than with
our hardware. In fact they conſented to ſell us ſome of their arms,
but probably fearing, left we ſhould turn them againſt themſelves, they
took the precaution not to part with any of their bows, and even to blunt
the arrows which they ſold us.
Soon after ſeveral of them gave us proofs of their diſhoneſty. With a
view to cheat us of our articles in bartering, they at firſt offered a good
equivalent, but inſiſted on having our goods delivered to them before
hand, which they kept, refuſing to give us any thing in return.
About cight o'clock in the morning, the General ſent two boats to
ſound a creek, which we perceived at about a mile diſtance to the north-
weſt. On a ſudden we loſt fight of them, and were under ſome appre-
henſions reſpecting them, when, about noon they appeared again at thc
mouth of the creek, which they had been to reconnoitre. Several
Inuſket-ſhot fired from theſe boats gave us to underſtand that they had
been attacked by the ſavages. At the report, the canoes which ſur-
rounded us made off with great precipitation. Our boats were not long
before they arrived, and informed us that the opening which we had taken
for a bay, was the extremity of a channel, which ſeparates the iſland of
St. Croix from that of New Jerſey. This channel extends in length
N.E. H. E. being at the utmoſt not three miles long, and its greateſt
breadth does not exceed one mile. It was ſounded with great accuracy,
and a line of ſixty-ſeven yards did not find the bottom in any part of it,
not even within an hundred yards of the ſhore.
A great number of canoes had followed our boats, whilſt large parties
of ſavages on the ſhore endeavoured to entice our people to them, by
ſhewing their cocoa-nuts, bananas, and ſeveral other fruits; at length
ſome of them ſwam off with thoſe productions of their iſland in exchange
for ſuch pieces of cloth of different colours as were intended for them.
Our boats on their return, at the entrance into the channel, and near
J a ſmall
MAY.J. OF LA PEROUSE. 429
a ſmall village on the coaſt of New Jerſey, were juſt leaving theſe
ſavages, when one of them was ſeen to ſtand up in the middle of his
canoe, and prepare to ſhoot an arrow at a man belonging to the boat
of the Eſperance. Every one ſeized his arms, but nevertheleſs the
iſlander recommenced his ſigns of hoſtility, whereupon one of our men
preſented his muſket, but the ſavage, without being terrificq with this
menace, bent his bow very deliberately and let fly an arrow, which ſtruck
one of the rowers on the forehead, although at the diſtance of about
eighty yards. This attack was inſtantly returned by the diſcharge of a
muſket and blunderbuſs, the latter of which having ſent a ſhower of
bullets into the canoe, from which the arrow had been diſcharged, the
three iſlanders who were in it immediately jumped overboard. Soon
after they returned to their canoe and paddled haſtily towards the ſhore,
but a ball at length reaching the aggreſſor, all three again jumped into
the water, leaving their canoe, with their bows and arrows, which fell
into the hands of our boat's crew.
All theſe canoes have out-riggers, and arc conſtructed as repreſented in
Plate XLVI. Fig. 3. Their bows are placed upon the platform, ſituated
between the canoe and the out-rigger, and formed of cloſe wicker work.
he body of the canoes is in general fiftecn feet long and ſix in width. It
is of a ſingle piece cut out of the trunk of a tree, very light, and almoſt
as ſoft as the wood of the mapou. There is through the whole length
an excavation of five inches wide, Here the rowers fit with their legs
one before the other, and up to the calf in the hollow. They are ſeated
on the upper part, which is ſmooth. At each of the extremities, which
are formed like a heart, we obſerved two T's, the one above the other,
cut out, but not very deep, and ſometimes in relievo. The lower part of
the canoe is very well formed for moving through the water. The out-
rigger is always on the left of the rowers. w
Theſe iſlanders are accuſtomed to chew betel. They keep the leaves
of it with areca-nuts, in ſmall bags made of matting, or of the outer
covering of the cocoa-nuts. The lime which they mix with it is car-
ried in bamboo canes, or in calebaſhes,
Theſe
.#30 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793,
Theſe people are, in general, of a deep olive colour, and the expreſſion
of their countenances indicates an intimate connection between them and
the generality of the inhabitants of the Moluccas; though we remarked
ſome who had a very black ſkin, thick lips, and large flat noſes, and ap-
peared to be of a very different race; but all theſe had woolly hair and
very large foreheads. They are in general of a good ſtature, but their legs
and thighs are rather ſmall, probably owing, in a great meaſure, to their
ina&tivity, and the length of time which they are confined in their canoes.
Moſt of them had their noſes and ears bored, and wore in them rings
made of tortoiſe-ſhell.
Almoſt all were tatooed, particularly on the back.
I remarked with ſurpriſe that the faſhion of wearing their hair white
was very general among theſe ſavages, and formed a ſtriking contraſt with
the colour of their ſkin. Without doubt, thoſe petits maitres uſed lime
for that purpoſe, in the ſame manner as I had obſerved amongſt the in-
habitants of the Friendly Iſlands. They are in the habit of pulling up.
their hair by the roots. Their notions of modeſty have not taught theſe
people the uſe of clothes. They generally have their bellies tied with
a cord, which goes two or three times round them. Their bracelets arc
formed of matted work, and ornamented with ſhells that have been
worn ; theſe are fixed to different parts of the arm, and even above the
elbow.
The ſailor, who had been wounded in the head by the arrow, did not
feel much pain from it; he might have had it dreſſed immediately by
the ſurgeon of the Recherche, but he choſe rather to wait till we ſhould
get on board the Eſperance. No one would, at that time, have ſuppoſed
that ſo ſlight a wound would one day prove mortal.
As ſoon as the boats were hoiſted on board the veſſels we ſtood to the
ſouth-weſt, a quarter weſt, coaſting the iſland of St. Croix, at the diſtance
of about three quarters of a mile, and obſerved many of the ſavages call
to, and invite us to land. Several amongſt them launched their canoes
to come to us, but we ſailed too faſt for them to overtake us. -
We diſcovered ſome mountains, the higheſt of which were at leaſt
three
MAY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 431
three hundred yards perpendicular; they were all covered with large
tices, between which we perceived here and there very white ſpots of
ground, which appeared to be laid out in beds.
From thence, after having ſailed along the coaſt about nine miles, we
found ourſelves oppoſite to a large bay, which has, without doubt, a good
bottom, but it is expoſed to the ſouth-eaſt wind, which blew at that
tline.
We ſoon after perceived at a diſtance, to the ſouth, ſeveral canoes
making towards the iſland of St. Croix; others were ſeen at a ſtill greater
diſtance, apparently employed in fiſhing in ſhallow water ; at the ſame
time we deſcried to the ſouth another ſhoal very near us, and which ex-
tended far to the weſtward.
We had juſt diſcovered Volcano Iſland, when a great number of canoes
left Gracious Bay, and made towards us, and as we had very little wind,
they had ſufficient time to come up with us. We already counted
ſeventy-four, which had ſtopt at the diſtance of eight or nine hundred
yards from the veſſel, when the clouds, which had gathered on the
mountains, cauſed the ſavages, by whom theſe perilous veſſels were man-
ned, to be apprehenſive for their ſafety if they remained longer at ſea.
They immediately paddled towards the ſhore, but before they had
reached it a violent ſquall, accompanied with a heavy ſhower of rain, very
much impeded their progreſs.
We ſtood off and on all night. The General propoſed to anchor in
Gracious Bay the next day. -
Several fires were kindled on the coaſt, to which we were near enough
to diſtinguiſh the voices of the inhabitants, who ſeemed to be calling to us.
We fircd ſeveral muſkets, intending to give them an agreeable ſurprize,
and immediately crics of admiration were heard from different parts of
the coaſt, but the moſt profound filence ſucceeded to theſe demonſtra-
tions of joy, although ſeveral other ſhot were fired.
23d. We did not perceive during the night, upon Volcano Iſland, any
indications that it ſtill contained ſubtcrraneous fire. This ſmall ifiand can-
not contain a ſufficient quantity of combuſtible matter to ſupply ince:-
fan tly
432 º voy AGE IN SEARCH [1793:
ſantly the volcanic fire, which Captain Carteret had obſerved there twenty-
ſix years ago.
The ſouth-eaſt wind continued all that day, and even on the next (24th),
prevented us from entering the Bay, near which a great number of cot-
tages were built under the ſhade of the cocoa-trees, that were planted
along the beach.
The natives ſoon made their appearance on the ſhore, when the
General ſent out two boats, following them with our veſſels, ſo as
to cover them in caſe of an attack from the natives. The ſurf was too
great to admit of our landing, nevertheleſs ſeveral of the natives ſwam
to us, bringing cocoa nuts in exchange for pieces of red cloth, which
they preferred before every other article we offered them. Some came
in their canoes, and all of them appeared very honeſt in bargaining with
us, which was perhaps owing to their having heard what had paſſed
between us and the inhabitants of the eaſt ſide of the iſland. They,
however, offered us only the worſt things they had ; moſt of the cocoa
nuts they brought were growing ſeedy. It was not till after ſome
time that they would ſell us ſome bows and arrows, but fearing left we
ſhould turn theſe arms againſt themſelves, they took the precaution to
carry the bows to one boat and the arrows to another. The latter were
not pointed. We obſerved, that by means of a reddiſh gum, a ſmall
piece of bone or tortoiſe-ſhell, about half an inch long and well ſhar-
pened, was fixed to the end of them ; others were pointed with the
ſame ſort of matcrials from ten to twelve inches long ; but many were
armed with the bone which is found next the tail in that ſpecies of ray
called raia paſtinaca.
R We obſerved ſeveral hogs on ſhore, which they would not bring to
us at any price, but promiſed to ſell them if we would come aſhore.
I remarked in their poſſeſſion a necklace of glaſs beads, ſome green
and others red, which appeared to me to be of Engliſh manufacture,
and which they agreed to exchange. -
We bought from theſe inhabitants a piece of cloth, which gave us no
very favourable idea of their induſtry: it was compoſed of coarſe bark
of trees, and very indifferently joined together.
MAY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 43.3
One of them wore, ſuſpended upon his breaſt, a ſmall flat circular
piece of alabaſter, which he parted with to ſatisfy us.
This intervicw had laſted nearly two hours, when, at a ſignal from
one of their chiefs, all the ſavages left us; but, when thcy ſaw our boat.
preparing to leave the ſhore, the women camc cloſe to the water's edge
to endeavour to perſuade us to land ; we, however, continued ſteady to
our purpoſe, in a ſhort time got on board the vciſels, and ſoon after ſet
ſail for the Iſlands of Arſacides.
On the 20th, about ten A. M. we perceived the Iſlands of Deliverance
to the weſtward. At noon we diſcovered the ſouthernmoſt of them,
between W. 13° S. and W. 10° S. diſtant about twelve miles, and the
other bearing W. 27° S. We found, by obſervation, that our veſſel was
in 10° 48' S. lat. and 160° 18' E long. Almoſt the whole circumfc-
rence of theſe two ſmall iſlands is very rugged, but they do not lie very
high. We perceived inhabitants upon them, and large plantations of
COCOa treCS.
We then crowded ſail for the Arſacides, the lofty mountains of
which we ſaw to the weſt-ſouth-weſt.
27th. We coaſted along it this day. About ten A. M. we had juſt
paſſed a ſhoal near two miles in breadth, when, through the negligence
of the watch, the ſhip went over another ſhoal, where, however, there
was fortunately ſufficient water to prevent her receiving any injury.
At noon we were in lat. 10° 5'4" ſouth, and long, 159° 41' eaſt, when
the land of the Arſacides bore from eaſt 21° north, to weſt 23° north :
we were then about three miles to the ſouth of the neareſt ſhore. Theſe
coaſts were indented, having ſmall hills projecting into the ſea, forming
a number of little bays, which afforded ſhelter from the eaſt wind.
Moſt of theſe ſmall capes are each terminated by a pyramidal rock of
conſiderable height, crowned with a tuft of very green buſhes. Farther
in the interior of the country we ſaw the ſame kind of ſmall hills ſtand-
ing on mountains of a moderate height, which cºhibited a very pictu-
reſque appearance.
It was gencrally at the extremity of the ſmall creeks that the inha-
* ., 3 I bitants
43-4 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
bitants fixed their reſidence. Many of them had come upon the beach
to enjoy the novel ſpe&tacle which our veſſels preſented to them. Their
cottages were built under the ſhade of numerous plantations of cocoa
trCeS. *
We had not yet ſeen any canoes on that coaſt, when, about four in
the afternoon, one came towards us. We were much aſtoniſhed that
the iſlanders who were in it durſt venture out on a ſea greatly agitated in
ſo frail a veſſel, the width of which was not any where more than two
feet, and they ſat in the deepeſt part in order to preſerve a proper cquili-
brium. (See Plate XLIV.)
After having approached to about two hundred and fifty yards of our
frigate, they addreſſed a few words to us in a very elevated tone of voice,
pointing to their iſland, and inviting us to go on ſhore. They then came
ſtill nearer, but a violent-guſt of wind compelled them to return to the
ſhore. -
Theſe iſlanders had not more clothing than the inhabitants of the
iſland of St. Croix, to whom they bear great reſemblance.
28th. This morning at day-break we perceived that the current had
driven us 18' caſt during the night. Our ſurpriſe at this was the greater,
as the eaſterly wind, which prevailed at this time, ſhould have counter-
aćted the force of the currents. Can the tides occaſion this ſingular di-
rcótion of the currents in theſe latitudes :
About ten in the morning four canoes came off the ſhore and advanced
to within about four hundred yards of our ſhip, but we could not wait
for their nearer approach, as we were obliged to continue our courſe to
double a cape which would have interrupted ſome nautical obſervations
we intended to make.
At noon we were in toº 33° S. lat. and 158° 57' E. long, and we ſaw
the ſea breaking with great violence againſt Cape Philip, which is a very
rugged point. We doubled it about four P. M. and ſoon after perceived
a large bay, the ſhores of which appeared to be very populous. We
faw ſeveral ſheds under which the inhabitants had put their canoes
to ſhelter them from the weather, and obſerved cottages in every part
even to the ſummits of the higheſt mountains.
MAY.] OF LA PEROUSE, 4 J "...º
,
Soon after the ſavages launched five canoes, and ſailed towards is
They all kept within call except one man, who, mounted in a catiºnarron
canoe, came much nearer the ſtcrn of our veſſel, to receive ſome pieces of
red cloth which we had thrown into the ſea. His behaviour indicated the
greateſt miſtruſt. He kept his eyes fixed on us, none of our motions cſ.
caped him, and at the ſame time he had the dexterity to catch cvery
article that we threw him. The appearance of this native, ſeated upon
a few planks, beat about by the waves, amuſed us for ſome ſeconds.
Our muſician wanted to entertain thoſe iſlanders with ſome tunes on the
violin, but juſt as he was tuning his inſtrument, they went off towards
the Eſperance.
Soon aſter five other canoes came alongſide our veſſel, teſtifying the
greateſt confidence in us. The natives by which they were manned
were certainly acquainted with the uſe of iron, for they expreſſed great
joy upon receiving ſome nails which we offered them. We could not
learn whether theſe people are uſed to barter their commoditics: at
leaſt we were not able to obtain any thing from them by this mode of
traffic, although they had javelins, tomahawks, bows and arrows. They
were, however, very willing to accept of any thing that we offered them
by way of preſent, and made us very obliging propoſals if we would land
upon their coaſts; whilſt, with their natural gaiety of manner, they frc-
quently repeated the word /ºiſſou (the boſom), accompanying their diſ-
courſe with very ſignificant geſtures, which produced great merriment
among our ſailors.
At ſun-ſet the ſavages returned on ſhore and kindled three large fires.
20th. The currents had carrical us during the night into a large channel
which runs along this caſterly iſland of the Arſacides, formerly called the
Iſland of St. Chriſtopher, and belonging to the archipelago of Solomon,
diſcovered by Mendana. It now bore north, and ſoon after we deſcried
the Iſle des Contrariétés, which about noon bore E. 14° N. to E. 30° N.
at a diſtance of 5,130 toiſes, wc being in 9° 53° S. lat. 150° 8° E. long.
This ſmall iſland is rather mountainous and very woody.
We ſoon coaſted along the ſmall iſlands called the Three Siſters, after
3 || 2 which
436 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
which we plied to windward, in order to get to the ſouthward, ſo as to
paſs the ſtrait which ſeparates the iſland called by Mendana Guadal-canal
from that of St. Chriſtopher. -
About eight in the evening the Eſperance came near enough to us to
acquaint us, by the ſpeaking-trumpet, of a piece of treachery which had
been practiſed upon her crew by the iſlanders. She had been ſurrounded,
during the preceding night, by a great number of canoes, from which
only two of the natives came on board. Theſe ſavages commended, in
very high terms, the fruits of their iſland, and promiſed to give a great
quantity of them to our men, if they would come on ſhore: at length
they departed about midnight; but amongſt the number of canoes which
remained near the Eſperance, one was obſerved much larger than the
reſt, which, about break of day, rowed ſeveral times round the veſſel, and
ſuddenly ſtopping, at leaſt twelve arrows were diſcharged from it, one of
which wounded one of the crew (Deſert) in the arm ; the greater part of
the reſt, fortunately, ſticking in the ſides of the ſhip. After making this
perfidious attack, they immediately fled with precipitation, and were al-
ready at a confiderable diſtance before a muſket was fired at them: none
of them were wounded ; but a rocket, which was diſcharged with a very
good aim, and burſt quite cloſe to the canoe, terrified them exceedingly.
The other canoes had likewiſe fled at firſt, but they ſoon returned to
the veſſel. §
This ačt of treachery, and the perfidious condućt of the ſame ſavages
to Captain Surville, gave us reaſon to believe that they had been actu-
ated by the ſame motives, when they uſed their utmoſt endeavours to
perſuade us to land upon their iſland.
30th. Being ſcarcely able to govern our veſſel, on account of the
ſlightneſs of the breeze, which blew by intervals from N. W. and W. N.
W., we were very perceptibly carried by the currents towards the Iſle
des Contrariétés. As the ſky was very clear, we had a good view of the
iſland, of which the engraving publiſhed by Surville affords a pretty cxaćt
repreſentation. We were at the diſtance of 1,500 toiſes, when a canoe
rowed from the ſhore, and came alongſide of our veſſel. It was manned
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MAY.] OF LA PEROUSE. 437
by four of the natives, who were very thankful for the preſents of ſtuffs
and hardware which we made them, and immediately gave us in return
ſome cocoa-nuts, which, like moſt of the natives of the South Seas, they
call niou. . . . . . . . . .
They appeared highly pleaſed with the nails which we gave them;
and continually, begged for more, frequently repeating the word maté
(death), and endeavouring to intimate to us by their geſtures, that they
intended to employ them againſt their enemies. Eight other canoes
ſoon joined the firſt, and approached our veſſel without ſhewing any ſigns
of fear. We admired the elegant form of their canoes, which were ex-
aćtly ſimilar to thoſe we had ſeen the preceding days at the eaſterly
part of the Arſacides. (See Plate XLIV). They were about twenty-
one feet in length, two in breadth, and fifteen inches in depth. The
bottom conſiſted of a fingle ºpiece cut from the trunk of a tree, and the
ſides were formed of a plank, the whole length of the boat, ſupported
by beams fixed at equal diſtances into the bottom: at both ends other
planks were attached to the firſt. Theſe were ornamented on the out-
fide with figures of birds, fiſhes, &c., rudely carved. The greater part of
the canoes were terminated in front with the head of a bird, under
which was ſeen a large bunch of fringe, coloured with a red dye, which
appeared to me to have been made of the leaves of the vacoua. The
other extremity of the boat was likewiſe ornamented with red fringe, and
here we frequently obſerved, in the inner ſide, the carving of a dog pro-
jećting from the veſſel, which led me to ſuppoſe that the ſavages poſſeſs
this animal. I was ſurpriſed to obſerve that they had given it nearly the
form of a blood-hound ; though it is probable they do not poſſeſs that
ſpecies, but that the carving was nothing more than an imperfect repre-
ſentation of the dog uſually met with in the South Sea Iſlands.
The ſavages were obliged to remain conſtantly at the bottom of their
canoes, in order to prevent their being overſet by the waves, and, what
rendered their ſituation ſtill more incommodious, they had to fit in the
water which was thrown in by the ſurge. They, however, took carc to
bale it out from time to time.
Amongſt
4.38 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
Amongſt the commodities which were obtained from them, was a
long fiſhing line-attached to the extremity of a large rod, which ap-
peared to me ſomewhat remarkable, as the greater part of the ſavages we
had hitherto ſeen, were in the practice of holding their fiſhing lines in
their hands. The hook was made of tortoiſe-ſhell.
Some of theſe natives wore as ornaments, bracelets made of various
kinds of ſhells; others had them of the rind of the cocoa nut, beſpangled
throughout their whole circumference with a great number of coloured
ſcc.ds. :
It does not appear that they chew betel; at leaſt I never perceived any
ſigns of their doing it. -
After theſe boats had remained ſeveral hours about our veſſel, one of
their chiefs gave them the ſignal for departing, upon which they imme-
diately rowed towards the coaſt with great ſpeed. One of the boats,
however remained a few moments, to receive ſome pieces of red cloth
which we were about to preſent to the natives at the inſtant when the
ſignal was given; but as ſoon as theſe iſlanders ſaw that their companions
had left them behind, they plied their oars with all the ſpeed they were
able, in order to overtake them. We were amazed to ſee their canoe
ſkim the waves with ſuch rapidity, that it muſt have run at the rate of at
leaſt 7,500 toiſes an heur. ſº
JUNE 1 ſt. Early in the morning we began to range along the ſouthern
... coaſt of Guadal-canal, which deſcends with a very gentle declivity to the
ſea, and obſerved in the interior part of the iſland a long chain of very
high mountains, running in the ſame direétion. We ſoon diſtinguiſhed
thc Mount Lama of Shortland. The coaft was bordered with 'cocoa
trces, under the ſhade of which we obſerved a great number of huts.
The low grounds rendered a large extent of this coaſt inacceſſible to our
veſſels, and we were much, incommoded by the currents which carried
us to eaſtward. This unexpected direction of the currents ſurpriſed
us the more, as the winds that had prevailed during our ſtay in theſe
parts might have been cºpećted to dire& their courſe to the weſtward.
On the morning of the 4th, we doubled Cape Hunter, diſcovered by
Shortland.
June.] OF LA PEROUSE, -439
Shortland. About ten o'clock we paſſed quite cloſe to a ſmall iſland
connected by ſome reefs to the coaſt, where we ſaw ſeveral groups of the
ſavages feated under the ſhade of finc plantations of cocoas, and bananas,
which give this iſland a very pićtureſque appearance. A great number
of canoes lay upon the beach, and we expected that the natives would put
to ſea with ſome of then to come to our veſſels; but their indifference
aſtoniſhed us : not one of them moved from his place, nor even roſe from
his ſitting poſture in order to have a better view of our ihips.
This ſmall iſland is ſituated in 9° 31' S. lat. 157 10' E. long.
We ſoon came in ſight of the weſternmoſt point of Guadal-canal.
On the 7th, about noon, we deſcried the largeſt of Hammond's iſlands,
N. 4° W. to E. 0° N, at the diſtance of 5, 130 toiſes, we being in 8° 40'
S. lat. 155° 0' E. long. We now left this archipelago, and made fail for
the northern coaſt of Louiſiade.
The ſurvey which we had taken of the Arſacides, left us no room to
doubt of their being the archipelago of Solomon, diſcovered by Men-
dama; as had been ſuppoſed upon the ſame grounds by Citizen Fleurieu,
in his excellent work upon the diſcoveries of the French.
On the 9th, the Eſperance informed us of the death of an unfortunate
man of her crew (Mahol), who had been wounded in the forehead, ſeven-
teen days before, by an arrow from one of the ſavages of the iſland Sainte
Croix. The wound, however, had cicatrized very well, and, for fourteen
days, the man had felt no troubleſome ſymptom whatever; when he
was ſuddenly attacked with a violent tetanas, under which he expired in
three days time. *
Many of our company ſuppoſed that the arrow with which he was
wounded had been poiſoned ; but this conjećture appears to me impro-
bable, as the wound cicatrized, and the man remained fourteen days in
good health. Beſides, we found that the arrows, left in the canoe by the
ſavages, and afterwards taken poſſeſſion of by our ſailors, were not poi-
ſoned ; for ſeveral birds that we pricked with them experienced no trou-
bleſome conſequences from the puncture: but it is a common occurrence
I Il
440 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
in hot climates, that the ſlighteſt punéture is followed by a general ſpaſ-
modic affection, which almoſt always terminates fatally.
. On the 12th, about ten in the morning, we deſcried the coaſts of
Louiſiade, and at firſt miſtook the moſt eaſterly extremity for Cape De-
liverance, but ſoon diſcovered that to be 25' farther north.
We were aſtoniſhed to find that the rapidity of the currents had been
ſo great as to carry us 44° to the northward in the ſpace of twenty-four
hours. The obſervations made on board the Eſperanee gave the ſame
reſult. -
We now ſteered weſt, coaſting along pretty high lands, from which,
however, we were obliged to keep at a conſiderable diſtance, on account
of the great number of ſhoals which extended very far into the ſea, and
rendered our navigation extremely dangerous. - .
On the 14th, at day-break, we found ourſelves ſurrounded with rocks
and ſhoals, amongſt which we had been carried during the night by
the currents from W. N. W. In vain we plied to windward with
a very good ſouth-eaſt breeze, with a view of extricating ourſelves
from this dangerous ſituation ; the currents always prevented us from
getting beyond a ſmall iſland ſituated to the north-eaſt, at the diſtance
of 2,500 toiſes, near which there appeared to be a paſſage into the open
ſea. We were then in 10° 58' S, lat. 151° 18' E. long. Our room for
beating became more confined, and our ſituation the more hazardous, in
proportion as we were carried farther to the weſtward ; beſides, we found
no bottom, ſo that we were at length obliged to reſolve venturing among
the ſhoals to the N. W. in hopes of finding thcre a paſſage for our veſ-
ſels; but this reſolution was not taken till late in the evening. It was
already night when we found ourſelves becalmed in a narrow chan-
nel, and at the mercy of a rapid current, which might every moment
prove our deſtrućtion, by driving us upon the rocks with which we were
ſurroundcd. However, at break of day we had the ſatisfaction of finding
ourſelves in the open ſea, extricated from all our dangers. Our ſituation
had undoubtedly been a very hazardous one ; but ſince we had already
traverſed
JUNE.] OF LA PEROUSE. 44?
traverſed ſeas full of ſhoals, we were become ſo accuſtomed to dangcr;
that myſelf, as well as ſeveral others of our company, went to bed at our
uſual hour, and ſlept as ſoundly as if we had been in a ſtate of the moſt
perfeót ſecurity. w
17th. The coaſts, along which we had hitherto ranged to the north-
ward of the iſlands, were intercepted by a great number of channels. We
had ſeen many habitations in this numerous collection of iſlands, but not
one of the natives. On the 29th, being in latitude 10°8' S. long. 140° 37'
eaſt, and ſailing at a ſmall diſtance northward of a cluſter of ſmall iſlands,
we obſerved fifteen of the natives coming out of their huts. Thrcc of
them immediately entered a canoe, and made towards us, but we ſailed ſo
faſt, that they were not able to come up with our veſſels.
Another canoe ſoon appeared near the weſternmoſt iſland of the
group; it was much larger than the former, and carried an almoſt ſquare
fail, which being immediately looſed, it ſoon came very near to us, but
all our endeavours to perſuade the men to come alongſide of our veſſel
were in vain. They afterwards made towards the Eſperance, and hav-
ing approached within a ſmall diſtance of her, drew in their ſail, and
would not come nearer; our veſſels were then lying to. Citizen Le-
grand, being very deſirous of an interview with the natives, threw him-
ſelf into the ſea, and ſoon ſwam up to the canoe. We were informed
in the evening that this officer had not ſeen any arms amongſt them ;
and, that though they were twelve in number, they had ſhewed ſome
ſigns of fear when they ſaw him approach them.
It appears that they are unacquainted with the uſe of iron, as they
ſeemed to ſet little value upon that which he preſented to them.
Theſe iſlanders were of a black colour, not very deep, and ſtark naked.
Their woolly hair was ornamented with tufts of feathers, and they wore
cords bound ſeveral times round the circumference of their bodies, un-
doubtedly intended to afford a ſupport to the muſcles of the belly. Many
of them wore bracelets made of the rind of the cocoa tree.
We admired their dexterity in ſteering near the wind when they re-
turned to the ſhore.
3 K On
442 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
On the morning of the 18th, two canoes with out-riggers and ſails,
each manned by twelve ſavages, ſailed ſwiftly round our veſſel, watching
us with great attention, but at a conſiderable diſtance. They afterwards
kept for a long time to windward of us. We were then in 99 53/ S. lat.
1.49° 10' E. long. There was every appearance of great population
on the ſouthern coaſt, and eſpecially towards the farther end of a large
bay that extends to S. S. W. We ſoon perceived ſeveral canoes rowing
towards us, each manned by ten or eleven natives, who kept at the diſ-
tance of about a hundred yards from our veſſel, till ſome pieces of cloth,
which we threw into the ſea for them, induced them to approach nearer.
They appeared much ſurprized at ſeeing a young black on board of our
veſſel, whom we had brought with us from Amboyna. They did not
underſtand him when he addreſſed them in the Malay language. - Theſe
ſavages had all woolly hair and olive-coloured ſkins; I obſerved, however,
one amonſt them who was as black as the negroes of Mozambique, and
reſembled them alſo in other particulars. His lower lip, as is the caſe
with them, projećted conſiderably beyond the upper. All theſe iſlanders
uſed betel; and they were all ſtark naked. They wore bracelets orna-
mented with ſhells. Many of them had a ſmall piece of bone paſſed
through the partition between the noſtrils; others wore a ſtring of ſhells
like a ſcarf over their ſhoulders.
They preſented to us roots baked in the aſhes, and carefully peeled.
We obſerved no other weapons amongſt them than ſhort javelins.
pointed only at one end.
Their huts were ſupported ſix or eight feet above the ground upon
ſtakes, like thoſe of the Papous. r
Theſe ſavages wiſhed us to land upon their iſland, but obſerving tha
we receded farther from it, in conſequence of the currents which carrica
us to the weſtward, they left us and returned to their coaſts.
Two of the canoes were ſtill quite cloſe to the Eſperance at half after
three o'clock, when we obſerved three muſkets fired from that veſſel,
upon which the ſavages fled, rowing with all their might. We ſoon
learnt that the men in one of the canoes had thrown ſtones at the crew
of
JUNE.] OF LA PEROUSE. 443.
of the ſhip without the leaſt provocation having been given. None of
the ſailors, however, had been wounded by this ačt of treachery; and
the muſkets had been fired only to terrify them. -
Soon after two boats were diſpached in order to ſound ſeveral
creeks along the coaſt, where we hoped to find good anchorage.—
We found ourſelves diſappointed; as it was neceſſary to approach within
a hundred yards of the coaſt, before the bottom could be reached with
a line of ſeventy yards; and at the diſtance of two hundred yards we
could not ſtrike the ground with a line of leſs than a hundred and
ſixteen.
* Notwithſtanding the fright which the muſkets fired at their compa-
nions might have given them, ſome of the natives came alongſide of
our veſſel from the very place to which the others had made their eſcape.
They ſhewed themſelves very fraudulent in their dealings with us, bar-
gaining at any price for the commodities which we had to barter with
them, and as ſoon as they had got them in their poſſeſſion, refuſing to
give us any thing in return. One of them, however, conſented to give
up to us a flute and a necklace, which are repreſented in Plate XXXVIII.
Fig. 20 and 27.
I obſerved one of the natives who wore, ſuſpended from his neck by
a thin cord, a part of a human bone, cut from about the middle of the
cubitus. Whether this might be a trophy of ſome vićtory gained over
an enemy, and thoſe natives belong to the claſs of the cannibals, I can-
not tell. -
Many of them had their faces ſmeared over with the powder of char-
coal.
They generally cover their natural parts with large leaves of vacoua,
paſſing between their thighs, and faſtened to the girdle before and be-
hind by a very tight ligature. } | , *.
They had with them ſome pretty large fiſhing nets, to the lower end
of which they had faſtened various ſorts of ſhells; ſome of theſe ſhells
they carried in ſmall cylindrical baſkets, furniſhed in the inſide with cords
ſeemingly intended to prevent their breaking. . . . . . . . . . )
3 K 2 They
A44 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
They uſed combs with three diverging teeth, ſome made of bamboo,
others of tortoiſe-ſhell. - v. - t : {
The ſavages left us at the cloſe of the evening, and we plied to wind-
ward during the whole night. *
We had ſcarcely advanced more than 10,000 toiſes to the N. E. ſince
the preceding evening, when we found ourſelves ſurrounded with low
iſlands connected by ſhoals, amongſt which we were obliged to beat even
during the night. We ſeveral times paſſed over flats, which we could
diſtinguiſh by the dim light of the moon, and often found ourſelves in
leſs than ten fathoms water.
* f : .
A calm coming on about midnight, left us at the mercy of the cur-
rent, which carried us towards the coaſt where the ſavages had lighted
ſeveral fires. - , ;
At break of day we perceived the Eſperance at a great diſtance from
us, and much nearer to the land than our veſſel, ſo that ſhe was obliged
to be towed by the boats.
The ſavages ſoon came in great numbers alongſide of our veſſel,
but were not to be prevailed upon to come on board. An old man,
who had already left his canoe in order to comply with our invitation,
was prevented by the reſt, who eagerly pulled him back to them, as if
they imagined him to be about to expoſe himſelf to ſome great danger.
We thought that we recognized amongſt theſe iſlanders ſome of thoſe
whom we had ſeen on the two preceding days. They were very curious
to know the names of the things we gave them; but what ſurpriſed us
very much was, that they enquired with the terms poe mama, which very
much reſemble the Malayan words apa mama, ſignifying “what is the
name of this P’’ They, however, underſtood none of the men in our
ſhips, who addreſſed them in the Malay language. *
Theſe ſavages brought with them a ſort of pudding, which we found
to conſiſt partly of roots and the fleſh of lobſters. They offered us ſome
of it, and thoſe of us who ate of it, found it very well taſted.
Moſt of theſe iſlanders made uſe of a human cubitus, ſcooped out at
the extremity, for drawing the pieces of chalk which they mixed with
their betel, from the bottom of a calabaſh. ,
JUNE.] OF LA PEROUSE, 445
They ſold us an axe ſhaped like that repreſented in Plate XII. Fig. 9;
it was made of ſerpentine ſtone, very well poliſhed, and hafted with a
ſingle piece of wood. The edge of the axe was in the direétion of the
length of the handle, as in ours.
Theſe iſlanders are very fond of perfumes; moſt of the things we
got from them were ſcented. They had pieces of the bark of dif-
ferent aromatic trees, one of which ſeemed to me to belong to the
fpecies of laurel, known by the name of laurus culilahau, which is very
common among the Molucca iſlands.
The calm ſtill continued, and about one o'clock the Commander ſent
the barge to affiſt in towing the Eſperance, as the crew might be ſup-
poſed already much fatigued with their labour. At length, about half
an hour after four a breeze ſprung up from the ſouth-eaſt, which en-
abled her to get clear of the ſhoals. The barge ſoon returned to our
veſſel, when we were informed that the Eſperance had been ſurrounded
for a long time by a great number of the ſavages; that about noon they
had pointed out to the crew two canoes rowing from two ſmall iſlands
to meet each other, and given them to underſtand that the iſlanders
in the boats were going to fight a battle, and that theſe who came off
conquerors intended to devour their enemies. During this recital, a fe-
rocious expreſſion of pleaſure was viſible in their countenances, as if they
were to partake of this horrible banquet. After this communication, al-
moſt all thoſe among our crew who had eaten of the pudding, which,
the ſavages brought them in the morning, were ſeized with retchings,
from the apprehenſion that this food, which ſeemed to be ſo highly
grateful to the iſlanders, was partly compoſed of human fleſh.
The two canoes were ſoon near enough together to commence the en-
gagement. The combatants were ſeen mounted upon a platform of
wood, ſupported by the out-rigger and the canoe, from whence they
threw ſtones with their flings, each of them wearing a buckler upon his
left arm, with which he endeavoured to ward of the ſtones thrown by
his adverſary. They, however, ſeparated after a fight of half a quarter
of an hour, in which none of them appeared to have been dangerouſly
wounded, and returned to the ſhore, . . . .
446 VOYAGE IN SEARCH Erzgā.
The captain of the Eſperance ſent to the Commander a tomahawk and
a buckler which he had obtained from theſe ſavages. . . . . ."
The tomahawk was very broad, and flat at one of its extremities.
The buckler was the firſt defenſive weapon which we had obſerved
among the ſavage nations we had hitherto viſited. It was made of very
hard wood, and of the form repreſented in Plate XII, Fig. 7 and 8. It
was nearly three feet in length, a foot and a quarter in breadth, and up-
wards of half an inch in thickneſs. The outer ſide was ſlightly convex.
About the middle of Fig. 8, which repreſents the inner ſide of the buckler,
three ſmall pieces of cane are viſible, by which the iſlanders fix it to the
left arm. * .º.
Though the natives had been in great numbers about the Eſperance,
they had attempted no act of hoſtility, except that one of them appeared to
be preparing to throw a javelin at one of the crew who was upon the
wale, but ſeeing himſelf obſerved, he deſiſted from his deſign, and the
canoe in which he was rowed away from the veſſel with precipitation.
On the following days we ſailed by ſome very low ſmall iſlands, beyond
which we ſaw very high lands to the ſouthward. The prodigious num-
bers of flats which we continually encountered, prevented us from rang-
ing nearer to the coaſt. -
On the 25th, being in 8° 7' ſouth latitude, 1.46° 30' eaſt longitude, we
ſaw the high grounds of New Guinea extending from ſouth-weſt to north-
weſt. After having followed them in their direétion to north-weſt, we
arrived on the 27th at a deep galph, about 40,000 toiſes in extent, and
ſurrounded by very high mountains, the lofticſt of which are on the
north ſide, where they unite with that which forms the Cape of King
William. The calm detained us here till the 29th, when we ſailed for
the ſtraits of Dampier.
On the 30th, at break of day, we diſcovered to the N. W. W. a very
- high mountain furrowcq near its ſummits by longitudinal excavations of a
great depth. This was the Cape of King William. We afterwards
obſerved the weſtern coaſt of New Britain, for which we ſteered under
full ſail, in order to get before night to the northward of the ſtraits of
" . . . . Dampier.
JUNE.] - OF LA PEROUSE, 447
Dampier. The ſun being in our face, the man at the maſt-head could
not perceive timely enough a flat over which we paſſed about eight in the
morning, the ſurge running very high. After getting clear of this, we
thought ourſelves out of all danger; but about three quarters of an hour
after, we found ourſelves between two ſhoals very near to each other,
which incloſed usin ſuch a manner, that it was impoſſible to paſs through
with the ſouth-ſouth-eaſt wind, which drove us farther and farther in.
The Commander gave orders immediately to put about; but there was
not time ſufficient to perform this manoeuvre, before our veſſel drove to-
wards the ſhoals to the northward, where we expected ſhe would ſoon be
wrecked, when Citizen Gicquel cried from the maſt-head that he ſaw a
paſſage between the rocks which, though very narrow, was yet wide
enough for our veſſel to ſail through. We immediately ſteered for this
paſſage, and were at length extricated from one of the moſt hazardous
ſituations which we experienced during the whole courſe of our expedi-
tion. We were, however, not yet out of all danger, being ſtill ſurrounded
for ſome time by other ſhoals, which obliged us ſeveral times to change
our direction; but we were at length fortunate enough to find a paſſage
through the narrow ſtraits by which they were ſeparated from each other.
About noon we were already very far up the ſtrait, our latitude being
5° 38' ſouth, longitude 146° 24′ eaſt.
The coaſt of New Britain bore from eaſt 37° ſouth, to eaſt 61° north,
we being at the diſtance of 2,500 toiſes from the land. {
The iſland on which Dampier diſcovered a volcano bore weſt 388
north, at the diſtance of 7,000 toiſes. This volcano was then extin-
guiſhed; but we ſaw, at the diſtance of 5,130 toiſes, weſt 28° north, a
ſmall iſland of a conical form, which was not obſerved by Dampier to ex-
hibit any ſigns of ſubterraneous fire. A thick ſmoke proceeded at in-
tervals from the ſummit of the mountain ; and about half an hour after
three, a great quantity of burning ſubſtances were thrown out of the
aperture of the volcano, which lighting upon the caſtern declivity of the
mountain, rolled down the ſides till they ſell into the ſea, where they
immediately produced an cbullition in the water, and raiſed it into va-
pours.
A 48 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [k/93.
pours of a ſhining white colour. At the moment of the cruption, a
thick ſmoke, tinged with different hues, but principally of a copper co-
lour, was thrown out with ſuch violence, as to aſcend above the higheſt
clouds. --- y
We ſaw a great number of inhabitants along the coaſt of New Britain,
and ſeveral huts raiſed upon ſtones, after the manner of the Papous.
We left the ſtrait before cloſe of evening.
We now ranged along the northern coaſt of New Britain, where we
diſcovered ſeveral ſmall iſlands, very mountainous, and hitherto un-
known. The currents in this paſſage were ſcarcely perceptible, except
under the meridian of Port Montague, where they carried us rapidly to
the northward, which led us to ſuppoſe that we were oppoſite a channel
that divides the lands of New Britain. We left this coaſt on the
9th July, after having been impeded in our ſurvey of it by the winds
from the ſouth-eaſt, and the frequent calms.
We had been obliged for a long time to live upon worm-eaten biſcuit
and ſalt-meat, which was already conſiderably tainted, in conſequence of
which, the ſcurvy had begun to make great ravages amongſt us. The
greater part of us found ourſelves compelled to leave off the uſe of coffee,
as it occaſioned very troubleſome ſpaſmodic affections.
On the 11th we ſteered very near the Portland Iſlands.
In the afternoon of the 12th we eſpied the moſt eaſterly of the Admi-
ralty Iſles. -
On the 18th, about ſun-ſet, we diſcovered the Anchorites S.W. by W.
About ſeven o'clock in the evening of the 21ſt we loſt our Commander
Dentrecaſteaux; he ſunk under the violence of a cholic which had attacked
him two days before. For ſome time he had experienced a few ſlight
fymptoms of the ſcurvy, but we were far from imagining ourſelves threat-
ened with ſo heavy a loſs. .
AUGUST 2d. we deſcried the Traitors Iſlands, and about noon we ſaw
them at the diſtance of 20,000 toiſes, from S. 35°W. to S 42° W. we
being in 6 S. lat. 134° 3’E long. . . .
On the 8th our baker died of the ſcurvy, his whole body having been
previouſly
Accust.] OF LA PEROUSE, 440
previouſly affected with an emphyſema, which had encreaſed with aſto-
niſhing rapidity, in conſequence of the heats of the Equator.
- . On the 11th we doubled the Cape of Good Hope of New Guinea, and
on the 16th caſt anchor at Waygiou.
C H. A. P. XV.
Abode at Waygiott—Scorbutic Patients are ſpeedily relieved—Interviews
with the Natives—Anchor at Bourotº-Paſſage through the Straits of
Bouton—Ravages produced by the Dyſentery—Anchor at Sourabaya—
-4bode at Samarang—My Detention at Fort Ankº near Batavia—Abode at
Iſle de France—Return to France.
- URING our ſtay at Waygiou we were frequently viſited by the na-
tives, who brought us turtles, ſeveral of which weighed from 200
to 240 pounds. They had moſtly been taken on the iſlands of Aiou.
The ſoup which we made of them afforded great relief to our ſcorbutic
patients. When the natives perceived that we were in need of them,
they made us pay for them at ten times their value. Theſe animals con-
tinued to crawl about ſeveral hours after their heads had beeh cut off.
The natives ſold us likewiſe, turtle eggs roaſted and dried; broiled turtle
fleſh, pullets, hogs, of which they told us there was great abundance in
their woods; oranges, cocoa-nuts, papayas, gourds of different kinds, rice,
purſlain (portulaca quadriffda), ſugar canes, pimento, unripe ears of
Turkey corn roaſted, and the freſh ſprouts of the papaya tree. They told
us that the ſprouts and unripe fruit of this tree were very good eating when
boiled. They brought us alſo ſago, made into a ſort of flat cakes, three
inches broad and fix long, which they ate without any farther prepara-
tion. Some of them brought us ſago made into a ſouriſh taſted paſte,
after having undergone fermentation.
l 3 I,
A 5() VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
Moſt of theſe iſlanders were naked all but their natural parts, which
they cover with a coarſe ſtuff apparently made of the bark of the fig tree.
The heat of the climate renders all other cloathing unneceſſary. Only
their chiefs wear very wide trowſers and jackets, made of ſtuffs which
they buy from the Chineſe, who, as they told us, came from time to time
to anchor where we were. Some of them wore alſo bracelets of ſilver,
which they had likewiſe bought of the Chineſe. Almoſt all the chiefs of
theſe ſavages had been at the Molucca Iſlands, and ſpoke the Malay lan-
guage. Some wore hats made of the leaves of vacoua, of a conical form,
and very like to thoſe of the Chineſe. Others had their heads bound
round with a ſort of turban. They have all curled hair, which grows
very thick, and to a conſiderable length. The colour of their ſkins is not
very black. Some ſuffer the beard on the upper lip to grow, and have
their ears and the diviſion of the noſe bored. Several of them ſhewed us
their dexterity in ſhooting with the bow at a mark placed at the diſtance
of more than forty paces; and their arrows always came very near their
aim. Others were armed with very long lances, pointed with iron or
bone. Theſe iſlanders undoubtedly know how to forge the iron, as they
ſet great value upon ſome bars of this metal, which we gave them. Tin
was likewiſe in great requeſt with them. But of all our commodities
they gave a decided preference to cloth, particularly ſuch as was of a red
colour. t
The iſland Waygiou, called by the inhabitants Ouarido, is covered
with large trees, and throughout mountainous, even at a very ſmall
diſtance from the coaſt. The huts were built of bamboo, raiſed upon
ſtakes, about three yards above the ground, and covered with reeds.
It is remarkable, that as ſoon as we had landcd, thoſe of our crew who
were the leaſt affected with the ſcurvy, or even ſhewed no ſymptoms at all
of that diſorder, became affected with a conſiderable degree of ſwelling
all over the body: but this ſymptom, which had very much alarmed
ſome of us, diſappeared entirely after walking three or four hours.
During our ſtay in this iſland I made very frequent excurſions into the
foreſts, where I collečted a great number of new plants, and killed a va-
riety
&/. yº /zºº/ y * -
*** *** *******.

AUGUST.] OF LA PEROUSE. 45
ricty of rare birds, amongſt which was that ſpecies of the prome-
rops which Buffon calls the promerops of New Guinea; alſo a large
pſitaccus aterrimus, and a new ſpecies of calao, to which I gave the name
of the calao of the iſland Waygiou. Its beak is bent, of a dirty white
colour, and about ſix inches in length. Each mandible is unequally
notched, and the ſuperior is ſurmounted by a hood of a yellow colour,
flat at the top and ridged. The wings and body are black, the tail white,
and the neck of a lively red. (See Plate XI.) This beautiful bird is
two feet in length, frontº the tip of the beak to the extremity of the
feet. ... " - t
1 ſaw ſeveral wild cocks in the woods. The female of this ſpecies,
which was brought us by the natives, was ſcarcely larger than a par-
tridge, and yet its eggs were as large again as thoſe of our domeſtic hen.
This wild ſpecies of the dunghill-cock is black, that which I had found
in the foreſts of Java was grey.
The crowned pheaſant of India (columba coronata) is very common in
theſe thick foreſts, where we found here and there wild orange trees, the
fruit of which furniſhed our ſcorbutic patients with a very wholeſome
ſort of lemonade. -
The natives told us, that the road-ſtead where our veſſels rode at an-
chor was infeſted by alligators; but this did not deter ſeveral of our
ſailors from bathing in it. We afterwards found ſome of the prints of
their feet in the woods. It is particularly during the night-time that
theſe animals arc moſt to be feared.
Whilſt we lay at anchor we were viſited by ſeveral of the chiefs. The
chief of Ravak ſupped and ſlept on board the Eſperance the night before
our departure; but as ſoon as he ſaw preparations for weighing
anchor, he threw himſelf into the ſea, from the apprehenſion that we
were going to carry him away with us. We ſhould have been ſurpriſed
at his harbouring ſuch a ſuſpicion, if we had not been informed, that five
months before the Dutch had carried off his brother, during an entertain-
ment which they had made for him on board of their veſſel. This chief
3 L 2 - \\ OIC
452 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
wore trowſers, with a very wide Indian cloak, and a of ſatin waiſtcoat,
His car-fings were of gold. r
The inhabitants of this iſland had declared war againſt the Dutch, and
the greater part of them, with the moſt powerful of the chiefs, to whom
they give the title of Sultan, at their head, were gone to unite with the
inhabitants of Ceram, in order to attack the Governor of Amboyna, who
was expected there on his viſit to the Molucca Iſlands. The inhabitants
of the huts built on the coaſt near our anchoring ſtation, had provided for
the ſafety of their women and children, by conducting them, before their
departure from the iſland, into the villages in the heart of the country.
The road-ſtead where our veſſels lay is called by the natives Boni-Sainé.
It is diſtant about 5, 130 toiſes to the eaſtward of Ravak, and formed by
the coaſt of Waygiou and a ſmall iſland called by the natives Boni, which
was eaſtward of our ſtation. We were here almoſt under the Equator,
our latitude being found by obſervation 38" S. Our longitude was 1289
53/ E. *
We took in our water towards the extremity of the road-ſtead, at a
pretty large river, into which our boats could enter more than 500 toiſes
from its mouth at low water, and twice as far at high water.
The thermometer, as obſerved on board, did not riſe higher than 24°,
undoubtedly in conſequence of the abundant rains.
The barometer varied only from 28 inches 1 line to 28 inches 1; line.
The variation of the magnetic needle was 1° 14' E.
The breezes were very ſlight, and varied only from S. S. E. to S. W.
On the 28th we ſailed from Waygiou, and ranged along its northern
coaſt, ſtanding to the weſt, in order to weather the weſterly point. We
here met with a flat which is not indicatcd upon the charts, where the
ſoundings gave us a depth of from four to cight fathoms, within a ſpace
of about 300 toiſes in length, which we were obliged to croſs. We ob-
ſerved in different places, rocks almoſt even with the watcr's edge, but
were fortunate enough to keep clear of them. The greateſt length of this
flat is about 1,000 toiſes from north to ſouth.
On
SEPTEMBER.] OF LA PEROUSE. J J }
On the 4th of Septem BER we caſt anchor in the road-ſtead of Bou-
rou, at the diſtance of 1,000 toiſes from the Dutch ſettlement, in a depth
of 20 fathoms, over a bottom of ſand and mud. The Commander of this
ſtation immediately ſent a corporal to us, to offer us a ſupply of whatever
freſh proviſions we might have occaſion for. A few minutes after
we obſerved ſome muſkets fired amongſt a herd of buffalocs that were
walking along the ſhore, and were informed that the Reſident had or-
dered two of the fatteſt to be killed for the uſe of our veſſels. Weil ac-
quainted with the wants of navigators, he had ſent us a great quantity of
fruit, ſeveral bottles of an agreeable liquor extracted from the palm-tree,
and ſome of the young leaves of a ſpecies of fern of the genus aſh/cnium,
which grows in moiſt places in the ſhade: eaten as fallad they are very
tender and well-taſted.
The Reſident, Henry Commans, was a man of great ſimplicity of
manners, and very much beloved by the inhabitants. It was he whoſe
happineſs the Dutch of Amboyna deſcribed, by telling us that he might
ſleep as much as he pleaſed. We met with ſeveral perſons in his houſe
who had ſeen Admiral Bougainville during his ſtay at Bourou, and who
mentioned the name of that celebrated navigator with enthuſiaſtic ad-
miration.
This and the following day were employed by me in ſurveying the
different diſtrićts of this iſland, which preſents every where a very varied
and pictureſque appearance. The ſago tree grows here in great abun-
dance: it forms the principal ſource of ſubſiſtence to the inhabitants,
and affords even an article of exportation. Large plantations of it were
ſeen near the Dutch eſtabliſhment, in marſhes which rendcr this place
very unhealthy, particularly in the beginning of the ſpring. The cayou
pouti of the Malays (melaleuca latifolia), grows in great abundance upon
the hills. The Reſident ſhowcd us a large alembic, which he uſes for
diſtilling the leaves of this tree, from which he procures every year a
great quantity of the oil of Cajeput.
The iſland of Bourou produces ſeveral kinds of wood proper for inlaid
work, which are in great requeſt among the Chineſe; and others uſeful
lſl:
45.4 VOYAGE IN SEARCH ſl 794,
in dyeing. Two Chineſe veſſels were run aground in the mud to the
N. E. of the Dutch fort. The village near which the fort is built is
called Cayeli, in the Malay language. Thoſe of the natives who follow
the Mahometan religion have a moſque, whoſe roofs diminiſhing in
regular gradation as they riſe one above the other, preſent a very
agreeable appearance. (See Plate XLII, which repreſents a part of this
village.) -
The coaſt to the eaſt of the village is watered only by. very ſmall ſtreams,
but about 2,500, toiſes to the N. W. we went up a very conſiderable
river, called by the inhabitants Aer-Beſſar, which diſcharges itſelf into
the road-ſtead. This river is very deep, and for the length of about 2,000
toiſes, as far as we went up it, more than 70 feet broad. The iſland of
Bourou undoubtedly owes its poſſeſſing ſo confiderable a ſtream to the
great elevation of its mountains. On the borders of the river I frequently
found the beautiful ſhrub known by the name of portlandia grandiflora.
The pebbles rolled from the mountains, which I found on the banks
of ſeveral rivulets, were fragments of rocks of quartz mixed with mica,
and frequently of a ſort of free ſtone, which likewiſe conſiſted of quartzoſe
particles. - *
Birds, eſpecially parrots, are ſo numerous in this iſland, that it pro-
bably derives from this circumſtance its name, which fignifies in the Ma-
layan language, a bird. t .
The woods afford ſuch abundance of deer, goats and wild boars, that
the natives can furniſh the Reſident with as many as he has occaſion for,
at the rate of two muſket ſhots fired at each. The ſpecies of boar called
babi-rouſſa (ſils babyruſa), is alſo found here. - .*
The natives ſeemed to be much afraid of ſeveral kinds of ſnakes,
which they told us were very numerous in their iſland; but during the
whole of our ſtay in this place, which I ſpent almoſt entirely in rambling
through the woods, I never met with one of theſe reptiles. . .
Although the rainy ſeaſon had not yet ſet in, violent ſtorms blew almoſt
cvery night from the high mountains. & º
Upon ſounding the bay, we diſcovered at its entrance, a little on this
º ſide
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SEPTEMBER.] OF LA PEROUSE. 455
ſide of the eaſt point, called Point Rouba, a ſhelf of rocks, at a depth of
not more than a fathom throughout an extent of about 2,000 toiſes; but
the reſt of this ſpacious outlet very deep, and that cven at a ſmall diſtance
from the weſtern point, or Point Leſſatello, called by the natives Tan-
guiou Corbau (Buffalo Point).
According to aſtronomical obſervations made at the village of Cayeli,
its latitude was 3° 21' 54" S. long. 125° 1' 0" E.
The dip of the magnetic needle was 20° 30'.
Its variation, as obſerved on board, was O' 54' E.
The higeſt point indicated by the thermomcter on board was 23°, and
on ſhore 25° 3-I Oths.
The mercury in the barometer varied only from 28 inchcs 1 line to
28 inches 2 lines.
The time of high water on the full and change days was three quarters
after eleven; it then roſe to ſix feet perpendicular height.
On the 16th we ſailed from Bourou, teering for the Strait of Bouton,
which we entered on the afternoon of the 22d.
17th. On the following day, about ſun-ſet, we caſt anchor 5 3 toiſes
from the coaſt, oppoſite to the outlet of the channel which ſeparates Pan-
geſani from Celebcs. Roffel, who, in conſequence of Dauribeau's being in-
diſpoſed, had now the command of the expedition, formed the project of
ſailing out through this channel. Early in the morning of the 24th, he
diſpatched a pinnacc, which reconnoitred the channel to the extent of
15,000 toiſes. A great number of ſmall iſlands were ſcattered throughout
the Strait, particularly towards the coaſt of Celebes; and both coaſts were
almoſt every where bordered with marſhes. After this report many of
I
t
; , § 1).Ot
f : -
our featoen thought there was reaſon to apprehend that we tº .
be 'e to find a ſufficient depth of water in cvery part of tric ci, annel
for ur veſſels to paſs through it; however we ſailed into it oil the fol-
lowing day, and, after having proceeded about 10,000 toiſes eat, anchored
at the cloſe of the evening.
26th. The following day another pinnace was ſent out to ſound througb-
out the wholc of this paſſage. She returned on the 20th in clic after. Jon,
with
A 56 VOYAGE IN SEARCH { 1793.
with the intelligence that ſhe had found a great number of ſand-banks
and ſome flats, very difficult to be diſcovered on account of their black
colour, which rendercq the paſſage extremely dangerous. It was there-
fore determined to return to the Strait of Bouton; and after having been
obliged to caſt anchor, often ſeveral times in the courſe of a ſingle day,
we at length arrived, on the 7th October, at its ſouthern extremity, and
anchored near the village of Bouton, at the diſtance of 1,000 toiſes from
the neareſt coaſt.
We had ſpent a conſiderable ſpace of time in paſſing through this Strait,
as we were obliged to lie at anchor during the whole night time, and in
the day to wait till the tide was favourable to our intended courſe, before
we could ſet ſail.
During our paſſage the natives brought us various ſorts of fruits com-
mon in the Moluccas. Some of their boats had a cargo of wild bread-
fruit, the kernels of which, thoſe who eat of them, found very indigeſ-
tible, even when roaſted. They brought us likewiſe a great number of
pullets, goats, dried and ſometimes freſh fiſh. Moſt of theſe natives
would not cxchange any of their commodities with us, before they had
aſked permiſſion of the Commander of our veſſel, to whom they generally
made a preſent. They informed us that a year ago they had ſeen four
European veſſels ſailing through this Strait, namely, two from Ternate,
the others from Banda and Amboyna. Theſe people trade with the
Dutch. They preferred money to any other commodity we offered them.
Moſt of them, however, were very deſirous to procure powder and ball
from us; but when they found that we would not give them any, one of
them offered us two ſlaves in exchange for a ſmall quantity of ammuni-
tion, and appeared extremely ſurpriſed that we did not accept of his
propoſal.
Theſe iſlanders brought us a great number of parrots, of the ſpecies
pſillacus alexandri and pſillacus criſiatus.
We were much ſurpriſed to ſee them bring ſome cotton ſtuffs, and
thread made of the agave vivipara, which, they told us, were of their
own manufacture.
I made
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ocTOBER...] ().H. F., A PEROUSE. A57
I made uſe of the opportunities afforded me by our detention in the
Strait to go on ſhore. I found a great number of plants which I had
never met with before: among others, the uviform nutmeg tree de-
ſcribed by Citizen Lamark; its fruit has no aromatic quality. I likewiſe
collected the cynometra ramiflora the gyrinocarpus of Gaertner, and va-
rious ſpecies of calamus, which, after raiſing themſelves to the ſummit of
the talleſt trees, deſcend again to the ground, from whence they climb up
others trees of equal height, their ſtalks frequently growing to the length
of ſeveral hundred yards.
The fruit of the bombax ceiba, and that of ſeveral new ſpecies of the
ſame genus, affords abundant nouriſhment to the numerous troops of apes
that are found here, ſome of which we killed in order to preſerve their
ſkins. -
The moiſt ground exhibited almoſt every where marks of the feet of
deer, wild boars, and buffaloes. We frequently found numerous herds of
the laſt-mentioned animals lying upon the wet ground; but they always
betook themſelves to flight as ſoon as they ſaw us, and it was impoſſible
to purſue them through the mire.
In the iſland of Pangeſani I frequently traverſed thick foreſts of the
palm, known by the name of corypha umbraciulifera, where I found ſquir-
rels of the ſpecies called ſciurus palmarum, which always fled at the ap-
proach of a man.
The natives had erected ſeveral ſheds near the ſhore, where they kept
the bamboo hurdles, upon which they place their fiſh when they dry them
at the fire in order to preſerve them.
The iſlanders, aware of the danger of living near the moraſſes, which
render the northern coaſt of Pangeſani very unhealthy, have built no vil-
lages in that part of the country. It was in the midſt of theſe moraſſes
that our crew became firſt infected with a dyſentcry of a very contagious
nature, which produccd the greater ravages amongſt us, as we were al-
ready much debilitated by the long uſe of bad proviſions, which had be-
come ſtill more unwholeſome during the courſe of our voyage. I was
alſo infected with this diſorder, which proved fatal to great numbers of
. Our CICW.
3 M.
k
5
S
VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
8th. This morning at ſun-riſe, four chiefs, who bore the title of $
Oran-kai, came on board to notify to us, that we were not permitted to
land, before the Sultana, who reſided at Bouton, and was an ally of the
Dutch Company, had been previouſly informed of our deſign. We
told them that we were very deſirous of viewing this part of the iſland,
and one of them went immediately to fignify our wiſh to that petty ſo-
vereign. -
We were ſoon viſited by two Dutch ſoldiers, who offered to procure
us an interview with the Sultan, aſſuring us that without his permiſſion
the natives durſt not ſell us any proviſions. They then condućted us to
their own dwelling, where we were informed that the Sultan would not
be viſible till very late in the afternoon. Upon this intelligence a conſi-
derable number of us took an excurſion into the interior of the iſland, di-
rcóting our route to the eaſtward. The natives did not appear ſurpriſed
at ſeeing us, and ſhewed no inclination to follow us.
After having walked for more than two hours along the banks of a
ſmall river, covered with a great number of boats, ſome of which had
come from the ſtrait laden with fiſh, we forded the ſtream with a view
of procceding to the northward. We went up very ſteep aſcents, where
. I colle&ted a great number of plants; among others, the barleria priomitis,
and ſeveral new ſpecies of the crofoil.
Moſt of the habitations in this part of the country were built upon the
ſummits of delightful hills, with which this ſide of the iſland abounds.
We met with a very friendly reception from the inhabitants, who pre-
ſented to us fruits of different kinds. One of them, who went to gather
ſome cocoa-nuts for us, climbed very quickly to the top of the tree, by
means of an expedient which to me appeared ſingular. Ile ticd his legs
together near the ancie with a ſtripe of cloth, by which he was enabled
to graſp the trunk of the tree with his feet ſo ſtrongly as to ſupport the
whole weight of his body; and, as the ſtem was not very thick, by thus
claſping it alternately with his feet and his arms, he very ſoon reached
the top. *
We remarked ſome forts built on the moſt inacceſſible heights among
* theſe
Noy ExIBER.] OF LA Pł,}{() USF, 45 ()
theſe hills, which ſerve the inhabitants for a place of refuge when their
habitations are invaded by an cnemy. Theſe fortifications conſiſt of
ſtone walls of conſiderable thickneſs, and about ten or twelve feet high,
incloſing a plot of ground from ſixty to eighty feet ſquare.
The natives who ſold us ſtuffs a few days before, had not deceived us
when they told us that they had been manufactured in the iſland of Bou-
ton. We ſaw to-day, in ſeveral of the houſes, looms for manufacturing
ſimilar ſtuffs; the workmen performing their operations in a nanner
very like our linen weavers. They uſe cotton threads of various co-
lours; but red and blue appear to be the moſt in requeſt among the
natives.
About four o'clock in the afternoon we went to the village of Bouton
to ſee the Sultan. We had not been informed that it was neceſſary to
bring ſome preſents with us, in order to be admitted to an audience. As
we had nothing to offer him, he was not to be ſpoken with ; but his ſon
and nephew received us at the fort where he reſides. They frequently
repeated to us, with great emphaſis, that the whole iſland was under his
dominion; that he was an ally of the Dutch Company, and that their
enemies were his enemies. They then told us that the natives of Ceram
having lately invaded their coaſts, four of them were taken and delivered
up to the King, who immediately ordered them to be beheaded. They
then deſircd us to ſtep a few paces further, and ſhewed us, with an air of
great ſatisfaction, the heads of theſe unfortunate iſlanders, expoſed upola
long poles planted on the walls of the fort.
The village of Bouton is built upon an eminence with a very ſtcep
declivity to the north-weſt, and ſurrounded with thick walls which fe-
cure the inhabitants from the incurſions of their enemies. The houſes
are built of bamboo, and their roofs covered with palm-trees, like thoſe
of the other inhabitants of the Moluccas.
The Sultan reſides in a fort built of ſtone. It appeared to us that this
chief ſhows great diſtruſt of the agents of the Dutch Company, though
they are his allies; for the three Dutch ſoldiers, who were the only in-
habitants of the Company's houſe, were not permitted to live in the vil-
3 M 2 lage
46O. VOYAGE i N SEARCH ' [1793.
lage where he reſides. They were obliged to remain in an inconvenient,
iſolated dwelling, more than 1000 toiſes diſtant from his reſidence.
They were ſoon to leave the iſland, and go to Macaſſar; but were ſtill
detained by the apprehenſion of meeting with the veſſels of the natives
of Ceram, which had been cruiſing for ſome time in theſe ſeas.
It was already night when we returned to the ſhore in order to go on
board. As it was then low water, we were obliged to wade in the ſea
up to our waiſts, though the greater part of us had laboured under the
dyſentery for ſeveral days, which was very much aggravated in conſe-
qucnce.
During the day the natives had brought, for the uſe of our veſſels,
rice, maize, ſugar canes, pullets, eggs, ducks and goats. In exchange for
theſe proviſions they had been offered hardware commodities, but they
preferred the money current in the Moluccas, cſpecially the ſmall fil-
wered coin which thcy call Koufan pera, and which is brought over by the
Putch from Europe.
The time of high water in this bay at full and change days, is about
one o'clock in thc afternoon, the tide riſing ſix feet perpendicular height.
Our anchoring ſtation was 5° 27' 8" S, lat. 120° 27' E. long.
Ön the oth in the afternoon we weighed anchor, and ſtccring under
fºil ſails to gºt out of thc ſtrait of Bouton, we ſoon reached the open ſea.
(), the 11th vºc paſſed the ſtrait of Salay.cr. A great number of ca-
rocs and natives were ſeen upon the beach, others were ſailing towards
Çelebes.
We caſt anchor ſoveral times along the coaſt of Madura, and on the
afternoon of the 19th, in a bottom of reddiſh mud, at the depth of five
fathorns, not far diſtant from the north-weſt point of the iſland, and at
the cntrance of the channel that leads to Sourabaya, one of the principal
eſtabliſhments of the Dutch in the iſland of Java. As we intended to
cºme to anchor there, a pinnace had been diſpatched, about nine
o'clock in the morning, to the village of Griſsé, by the Eſperance, to de-
inand a pilot who could condućt us through the channel.
Five days elapſed without our receiving any news of our pinnace. We
We TC
Nov exiBER.] OF LA PEROUSE. A61
were apprehenſive that ſhe had fallen in with pirates; and, on the 23d,
another was ſent out, upon the ſuppoſition that the former had not ar-
rived at the place of her deſtination; for we could not have imagined that
ſhe had been detained by the Dutch, who were well acquainted with the
purpoſe of our expedition: but on the 25th, we received a letter from
the officer who had the command of the pinnace, acquainting us that
he was detained priſoner by the Dutch, who were then at war with
France. Soon, however, a meſſage was brought us from the Council of
Sourabaya, informing us that in purſuance of thc inſtrućtions which they
had juſt received from Batavia, they were willing to afford us every aſ-
ſiſtance in their power; and on the 20th two pilots were ſent us. We
were obliged to caſt anchor ſeveral times before we could get into the
roads of Sourabaya, where we caſt anchor on the 28th, about 1,000 toiſes
northward of the river that runs through the town; the flag of the fort
bearing S. 2° E. and the village of Griſsé W. 30' N.
The dyſentery had already carried off ſix of our crew ſince our depar-
ture from Bouton.
31ſt. We ſoon obtained pcrmiſſion to reſide in the town of Sourabaya,
where I procured a lodging in the houſe of Meſſrs. Bawcr and Stagh,
who received me with the greateſt cordiality.
Nov EMBER oth. The council revoked the permiſſion they had
granted us, and all our company were immediately obliged to return on
board, with the exception of our invalids, to which number I belonged,
the dyſentery having left me in a ſtate of extreme debility. Being now
removed from the reſt of my follow-ſufferers in this contagious malady,
I was very much relieved by the uſe of purgatives, ſago, and łkimmed
milk; and in a ſhort time completely recovered.
It was high time that this captivity ſhould have an end ; for the num-
ber of ſick perſons on board increaſed with alarming rapidity. Almoſt
onc half of the crew were attackcd with dyſentery and contagious
fevers, which did not abate of their violence till they had carried off ſe-
veral of our men. At length the Council again granted the permiſſion
which they had revoked a few days before, and we had the ſatisfaction
of mecting again togethcr in the town.
A 6'2 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
The heat was exceſſive during the firſt days of our ſtay at Sourabaya.
I was aftoniſhed to ſee Teaumur's thermometer riſe to 27°; but theſe
burning heats were but of ſhort duration; for the change of the mon-
ſoon, which took place about the beginning of November, cauſed for
a conſiderable time, eſpecially in the afternoon, abundant falls of rain,
which cooled the atmoſphere to ſuch a degree, that the thermometer
did not ſtand higher than 22° or 23°, in the hotteſt part of the day.
As ſoon as my health was a little re-cſtabliſhed, I made frequent cy-
curſions in the environs of the town, and as far into the country as my
ſtrength permitted me. I had the pleaſure of ſeeing my collections of na-
tural hiſtory encreaſe with a great number of ſpecimens which I had
never beſore met with.
Moſt of the roads to a conſiderable diſtance from Sourabaya are
ſhaded by hedges of bamboo. Others were incloſed between long ave-
nues of mimuſops clengi, guillandina moringa, nauclea orientalis, hybiſcus
filiaceus, &c. the ſhade of which produces a very ſalutary effect in this
fervid climate. I was much ſurpriſed to ſec the laſt mentioned tree ſend
out branches from the whole length of its trunk, as far down as the root;
differing in this reſpect from all of the ſame ſpecies, that I had ſeen in
other places, but I ſoon obſerved ſome of the Javaneſe employed in making
inciſions very cloſe to cach other in the bark of the trees with a large knife,
and was informed that this operation has been practiſed here from time
immemorial for the purpoſe of cauſing young ſhoots to ſprout from the
places cut in this manner. They always chooſe the rainy ſeaſon for per-
forming this operation, as it ſucceeds with moſt certainty at that period.
Vegetation is then ſo rapid in this climate, that a very ſhort time after
the inciſions had becn made, I ſaw them fillcd with a vaſt number of
young buds. The inhabitants of this iſland are, however, in general but
little ſkilled in the agricultural arts.
On the 12th of December, thoſe of us who were cngaged in the pur-
ſuit of natural hiſtory, obtained permiſſion from the Governor of Soura-
baya to viſit the mountains of Prau, ſituated at the diſtance of about
30,000 toiſes weſt-ſouth-weſt of the town.
On
DECEMBER. OF LA PEROUSE. 40
3
On the following day we ſet out for the village of Poron, ſituated near
the foot of the mountains. The Javaneſe who carried our baggage, ſuſ-
pended it to long poles of bamboo, cach borne between the ſhoulders of
tWO Innell.
f Having proceeded about 20,000 toiſes, we arrived at Sonde Kari, where
we dined after the Javaneſe faſhion with the chief of the village, who had
ordered a ſumptuous repaſt to be prepared for us. It conſiſted of ſeveral
diſhes of broiled fiſh, and the fleſh of buffaloes and horſes that had becn
preſerved, as we were told, for ſix months, by being cut into thin ſlices,
and dried in the ſun. All the diſhes were ſeaſoned very highly with pep-
per, pimento and ginger. Rice ſerved us in the place of bread, and the
entertainment concluded with a plentiful deſert of excellent fruit.
We ſoon ſet forward on our journey, and were overtaken by a heavy
rain, which put us to great inconvenience. A ſerjeant of the Dutch troop
gave us a proof of his authority over the Javaneſe, who returned to the
village we had left, by taking out of their hands the umbrellas which
they had brought with them; none of them daring to reſiſt. We did not
know what he intended to do with them, till he came up and offered
them to us, ſaying, that he thought it very preſumptuous in theſe men to
ſhelter themſelves from the rain, while they ſaw us expoſed to it; but to
his great ſurpriſe, none of us would make uſe of the umbrellas, but deſired
him to return them to the owners.
At length we arrived at the village of Poron, where we were received
by the chief, who bears the title of Deman. His principal office is to ap-
portion to the natives their daily taſks of labour.
The country through which we had paſſed is a vaſt plain, in which rice
is principally cultivated. The plantations were already covered with ſix
or eight inches of water, retained by the carthen mounds with which they
were ſurroundcq.
Before we arrived at Sonda Kari, we had obſerved large plantations of
indigo. This article is principally cultivated in Java by the Chineſe,
who have a much more cytenſive acquaintance with the arts than the
natives.
WC
A64 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
We ſaw likewiſe ſeveral fields in which the ricinus communis was culti-
watcd, from the ſeeds of which the Javaneſe extract a kind of lamp-oil.
This plain contains alſo a few plantations of maize, ſugar canes, and
the holcus ſorghum.
We ſpent the night in a very neat houſe, built of bamboo, which ſtood
cloſe by that of the Deman.
14th. On the following day we baited at the weſt extremity of the ſame
village upon lands under the juriſdićtion of the Tomogon of Banguil, who,
though he reſided at the diſtance of more than 7,500 toiſes from thence,
came early in the morning to give orders to the inhabitants to provide for
our ſafety, and furniſh us with whatever eatables we might want.
The Tomogon was a man of much good ſenſe, ſpoke the Dutch lan-
guage very well, and had a competent knowledge of the affairs of Europe.
He was a Chineſe by birth, but had embraced the Mahometan religion in
order to obtain the title of Tomogon.
We were extremely fatigued with the journey we had made the preced.
ing day upon the ſmall horſes common in this iſland. Their very hard trot
galled us the more, as the ſaddles we were obliged to make uſe of were
not ſtuffed, but conſiſted of a very hard kind of wood, with a thick piece
of ſkin glued on for their only covering. Beſides, the Javaneſe ſtirrups
were too ſhort for us, and could not be lowercd, which rendered our poſ-
ture extremely uncaſy. We thcrefore went very little from our habita-
tº ºn during this day, but on the following (15th), we paſſed over a plain
about 2,500 toiſes in length, and for the greater part already covered
with water, before we arrived at the mountains of Prau. The Tonnagon
of Bangul came to this place on horſeback, accompanied by upwards of a
hus, dred attendants, very well mounted. We found him in the foreſt,
where he waitcd for us; but, having probably very little idea of the ſimple
yode in which naturaliſts chooſe to travel, he had made his men bring
chairs with them for us to ſit down upon at the top of one of the moun-
tains, from whence we had a view through the trees of a great extent of
country, which he told us was all in his dependency; and, to impreſs it
the more ſtrongly upon our minds, he immediately ordered the tops of ſe-
veral
December.] U)}s' LA PF, ROUSE. 465
veral tek-trees to be ſtruck off; but we ſaw with regret more than a hun-
dred feet of the trunks of theſe beautiful trees deſtroyed and ſacrificed to
fuch a momentary gratification.
Peacocks were very common in theſe foreſts through which we ranbled
in every direétion, and we ſhot ſeveral of them. Amongſt other plants, I
collected ſeveral beautiful ſpecies of Iſvaria, helečieres and bathinia.
The natives were employed in clearing a fine picce of ground at the
foot of the eaſtern mountains. The ſmaller trees they cut down with
axes; the larger they only ſtripped of their bark near the root, in order
to make them decay.
In the afternoon a diſtant ſound of thunder uſhered in a violent fall of
rain, as is uſual at this ſeaſon, which compelled us to haſten back to our
habitation. The Tomagon, before he returned to Banguil, repeated the
orders he had already given to the natives, to provide for our ſafety and
Our WantS.
On the following days we viſited the mountains of Panangounan, pe-
netrating into the territory of the Emperor of Solo through vaſt foreſts of
tek-trees, under the ſhade of which the failcratium amboineſſ grew in
abundance. Our guides often expreſſed their fear of meeting with ti-
'gers, which, they told us, were very common in the thickets on the
banks of the rivers, where they lie in wait for the animals that come to
drink. We, however, met with none of theſe beaſts of prey.
The Javaneſe who accompanied us were almoſt continually on horſe-
back, and did not diſmount even in the moſt inacceſſible parts of the for
reſt : but whencver they ſaw the plant, called in their language kačiar-
amkri, thcy immediately threw themſelves on their feet, and ran as faſt as
they were able to gather it, trying to outſtrip each other. Their eager-
neſs raiſing our curioſity to know the cauſe of their valuing this plant ſo
highly, we were informed that the knobs of its roots, dried and reduced
to powder, were a powerful aphrodiſiac. It appears that theſe auxiliary
mcdicines are much cfteemed amongſt this people, as, indeed, they ge-
inerally arc amongſt the inhabitants of hot climates. This paraſite plant is
only to be found upon the trunks of large trees. It was not yet at its pe.
3 N Iiod
4öö VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1793.
riod of frućtification ; however, it appeared to me to be a new ſpecies of
the pothos.
During theſe excurſions I killed ſeveral wild cocks, whoſe plumage
was diverſified with a variety of colours of admirable brilliancy. Their
crowing, which we often heard in the midſt of the woods, led us at firſt
to imagine that we were in the vicinity of ſome habitation, but we ſoon
learnt to diſtinguiſh their note perfectly well from that of the domeſtic
cock. The comb of the wild cock is not red, but of a whitiſh colour,
with a ſlight tinge of violet, which grows ſomewhat deeper towards the
edges. The greater part of the ſwamps in the neighbourhood of our
dwelling were covered with very large leaves of the nymphea melumbo,
upon which we frequently obſerved a ſpecies of bird ſimilar to that
called parra ſineſis ; and admired the lightneſs with which it walked over
the ſurface of the water, ſtepping with its long legs from onc leaf to the
other.
At a ſmall diſtance weſtward of the village of Porou, we ſaw two co-
loſſal ſtatues, called by the Javaneſe reëſio, and in high veneration annongſt
them. They were both hewn out of blocks of ſtone eleven fect high ;
their drapery was very wide, and the phyſiognomy of the two heads bore
a Mooriſh character. To me it appeared probable that theſe ſtatues had
been creeted in honour of ſome of the Mooriſh conquerors of the Moluc-
cas; but the natives could give us no information upon this head.
The Dutch ſerjeant who accompanic d us was a paſſionate admirer of
the muſic of the Javaneſe. Soon after our arrival at Porou, he ſent for a
female ſinger, whoſe ſhrill voice was accompanied by two muſicians, who
played every evening upon inſtruments, one of which reſembled a dul-
cimer, and the other a mandolin. Whilſt we were employed in preparing
and deſcribing our collections, we were obliged to hear, for ſeveral hours
together, this diſcordant muſic, which, however, had always charms ſuffi-
cient to attract a great concourſe of the natives round thc performers.
All the airs were ſung in the Javanoſe language. They generally turned
upon the ſubjećt of love, as our ſerjeant, who underſtood the Javancſe
language perfectly well, interpretcd them to us. He told us that, theſe
All Tº
FEBBUARY.] OF LA PEROUSE, A j7
airs were all impromptu, as thoſe ſung by the ſinging-women of Jaya
generally are. Ours accompanic d her voice with a variety of geſtures
appropriate to the ſubjećt, and cſpecially with certain novements of
her fingers of very difficult execution, which were much applauded by
the natives. If report does not do them injuſtice, theſe ſinging-women
are not diſtinguiſhed by any extraordinary rigidity of virtue.
On the 20th we returned to Sourabaya.
Citizen Riche and I had formed a plan of ſpending ſome time among
the mountains of Paſſervan, to which we had approached very near dur-
ing our laſt excurſion. They are very high, and we had oftch heard
their fertility much ſpoken of Grain is cultivated there with great ſuc-
ceſs. Many European fruit-trees likewiſe ſucceed very well upon thoſe
heights, on account of the mild temperature of their atmoſphere. It
was neceſſary for us to procure a new order from the Governor before
we could undertake this expedition; but Dauribeau, who had offered to
requeſt it for us, brought us information that the Governor had ſhortly
received new inſtructions from the Council at Batavia, according to which
he could not permit us to go to any great diſtance from the town ; a
walk of three or four hours, being all that was allowed us. I went ſeve-
ral times to ſee a ſpring ſituated at the diſtance of about 7,500 toiſes to
the weſtward. A great quantity of petroleum riſes to the ſurface of its
watcr, and is carcfully collected by the inhabitants, who mix it with
pitch. Abundance of pumice-ſtone is ſound in the ſurrounding country.
Citizen Riche and I lodged in the ſame houſe. We generally went
out together to purſue our reſearches, and returned in the evcning to
Sourabaya with the new ſpecimens we had collected. It was always with
regret that we found our labours ſuſpended by the approach of night.
But on the 10th of February 1791, about four o'clock in the morning,
Chateauvieux, the commandant of the place, came with a troop of thirty
ſoldiers under arms, to inform us, in the name of Daurileau and the ºrin-
cipal officers of our expedition, that we were under arreſt. Shortly after
we learnt that ſeveral others of our cºmpanions had ſhared the ſame fat, ,
without being able to divine thc cauſe of ſo arbitrary an act of authº-
3 N → rity .
468 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1704.
rity ; but we were ſoon informed that intelligence which Dauribeau had
received from Europe, had determined him to hoiſt the white flag, and
put himſelf under the protection of the Dutch, who were then at War
with France. He had undoubtedly already then formed the projećt,
which he afterwards carried into execution, of ſelling the veſſels of our ex-
pedition. To inſure his ſucceſs, it was neceſſary for him to get rid of all
thoſe perſons under him who he knew would ſtrongly diſapprove of ſuch
a meaſure. We were therefore delivered into the hands of the Dutch as
priſoners of war, to the number of ſeven, namely, Legrand, Laignel, Wil-
laumez, Riche, Ventenat, Piron, and myſelf, and conduded to Samarang
by a march of 200,000 toiſes, over roads bad in the extreme, and in the
rainy ſeaſon. We were obliged to uſe boats to croſs ſeveral large plains,
inundated by the torrents deſcending from the mountains ſituated to the
ſouthward, and which form a part of the great chain which runs through
the whole iſland of Java from eaſt to weſt.
Michel Sirot and Pierre Creno, ſervants on board the Eſperance, fol-
lowed us in our proſcription.
Dauribeau had robbed me of all my collections. When we left Sou-
rabaya, I had intruſted to the care of Lahaie, the gardener, eleven
bread-fruit trces, and an equal number of the roots and ſtems of this
valuable plant, kept in clay in perfect preſervation, and fit to produce
as many young trecs. He promiſed to take thc beſt care of them, and
gave me a receipt for the depoſit.
The greater part of the crews were thrown into the priſons of the
Tomagon of Sourabaya, from whence they were taken out ſome time after,
part to be ſent into thoſe of Batavia, and part to remain with Dauribeau.
We left Sourabaya on the 24th of February.
This town is ſituated in 7° 14′ 28" ſouth lat. 110° 35' 43' eaſt long.
The variation of the magnetic needle was 2° 31' 14" weſt, and the
diſtance 25°.
After a long courſe of fatigue we at length arrived at Samarang, on the
morning of the 11th March.
The Commandant of the place innmediately condućted us to Governor
* Overſtraaten.
MARCII.] OF LA PEROUSE 460
Overſtraaten. The Governor told us that the firſt ſurgeon of the hoſpital
had got a lodging prepared for us, and ſent us to take poſſeſſion of
it ; but what was our ſurpriſe, when, having been introduced to the
ſurgeon, he led us into one of the wards of his hoſpital, where he
ſhewed us ſeven beds, which he ſaid had juſt been made ready for us.
There was neither table nor chairs in this place. It was in vain that
we repreſented to him that we were not ſick, and did not wiſh to
become ſo by living in an hoſpital : his anſwer always was, that, according
to the orders of his Excellency the Governor, he had no other lodging to
offer us.
We were obliged at laſt to appeal to the Governor, and to make him
ſenſible, if poſſible, of the harſhneſs of ſuch a mode of proceeding
with reſpect to men, who, upon their return from a long and toilſonne
expedition, undertaken for the advancement of the arts and ſciences,
had a right to expect a better reception from a civilized nation. It was
not, however, till after parleying for ſeveral hours, that the order for
our impriſonment in an hoſpital was reverſed. We were now per-
mitted to live in the centre of the town, and this was our priſon.
Some time after we obtained pcrmiſſion to go to the diſtance of about
2,500 toiſes from Samarang, but with the reſtriction that we ſhould not
approach the ſea-coaſt.
During our march from Sourabaya to Samarang, I had been ſurpriſed
to obſerve in the market places of ſeveral villages, ſhops where ſmall
flat ſquares of a reddiſh clay, called by the inhabitants talla ampo, were
expoſed for ſale At firſt I imagined that they might be employed for ful-
ling cloths; but I ſoon obſerved the inhabitants chewing finall quantities
of this clay, and they aſſured me that this was all the uſe they made of it,
Whilſt we were paſſing through the extenſive rice plantations at the
foot of the mountains, the natives had frequently pointed out to us fields
of rice upon declivities too ſteep to be able to retain the water. The rice
cultivated in theſe places was of a ſpecies, that does not require an
f
inundated ſoil to ſucceed perfectly well; but the only cultivate it in
the ſeaſon when the land is daily drenched with copious rains.
I had
470 VOYAGE IN SEARCII | 1794.
I had already remarked upon ſeveral hills in the iſland of Java, a great
number of cocoa-trees which were ſtripped of their leaves and dead at
the root. It had appeared very fingular to me to find ſo great a number
within ſo ſmall a ſpace ; but I was at length informed, by ſeveral of
the inhabitants of the hills ſituated at a little diſtance north-weſt of
Sanjarºng, where I ſaw many cocoa-trees in the ſame condition, that
they had been ſtruck by lightning, and they informed me that the
ſame circumſtance frequently happens upon many other hills in the
iſland. In fact, theſe high trees are particularly expoſed by their ſitu-
ation, to the terrible effects of the lightning; beſides, the ſap, with
which they abound, contributes in a great degree to attract the electric
Inn atter,
On the 5th of April, we were informed that a packet was ſhortly
to ſail from Batavia for Europe. The Governor of Samarang was willing
that two of us ſhould go to Batavia, to ſolicit permiſſion of the Regency
for themſelves to return in this veſſel. As we were all animated by the
ſame deſire of reviſiting our native country, we agreed to caſt lots. The
fortunate perſons were Citizens Riche and Legrand, and on the 6th of
May they ſet out for Batavia.
Twelve days after we received orders from the Governor of Samarang,
to go to the ſame place, and there to wait for another opportunity of
returning to France, than that of the packet above mentioned ; for
it was evcn very uncertain, whether or not Richc and Legrand would find
a place in it.
Some of the Dutch who were intereſted about us, informed us that thc
flect, upon which our hopes of returning to Europc depended, was not to
ſet ſail in leſs than ſix or ſeven months, and they aſſured us, that before
that period it was not probable we ſhould meet with any other opportu-
nity of returning to our native country. The dyſentery which I had
caught among the marſhes of Strait Bouton, made me apprehenſive that
a relapſe would be produccd by thoſe of Batavia, where the cxhalations
are ſtill morc noxious. Beſides, thc ſituation of Batavia is ſo pernicious to
Jºuropeans, particularly during the firſt year of their abode there, that out
of
AUGUST.] OF LA PEROUSE 47 |
of every a hundre ſoldiers who arrived there from Europe, twenty-four
generally die in the firſt year, and thoſe who become ſomewhat accuſtomed
to the climate, ſtill remain in a languiſhing ſtate of health. Other Euro.
peans who have all the conveniencies of life at their command, do not
die in ſo terrifying a proportion: but from the ſmall allowance that was
granted us as priſoners of war, we could not hope to be able to procure
ourſelves any thing beyond the mere neceſſaries of jife.
Citizen Piron and myſelf obtained permiſſion to delay our departure
for Batavia till the Dutch fleet was juſt about to ſail. Our companions
in misfortune, Laignel, Ventenat, and Willaumez, ſet off for that place;
and as ſoon as they arrived there they were ſent to Fort Tangaran,
more than 7,500 toiſes diſtant from the town. Riche and Legrand,
inſtead of procuring a paſſage in the packet, which was immedi-
ately to ſet ſail, had been exiled to Fort Anké. However, about two
months afterwards, they had the good fortune to embark for Iſle de
France, on board of a veſſel in which ſome priſoners taken from our
privateers were conveyed to that place. -
Dauribeau, not ſatisfied with having taken away my collections, re-
queſted of the Governor of Samarang, that the manuſcript which con-
tained the obſervations I had made during the voyage in ſearch of Perouſe
might likewiſe be taken from me. In vain I proteſted againſt this violation
of the moſt ſacred ſpecies of property: Governor Overſtraaten gave orders,
on the 28th of July, that my cffects, to which the ſeal had been applied a
month before, ſhould be ſearched; but fortunately my journal was not.
found.
Dauribeau ſhortly after his arrival at Samarang, for the purpose of
treating with the Governor concerning the ſale of the veilels, died there
on the 22d of Auguſt. -
As the time appointed for the ſailing of the Dutch fleet was at hand,
Citizen Piron and myſelf ſet out for Batavia on the 31ſt. On board of
the veſſel which conveyed us thither were ſeveral Javaneſe, one of whom
was in irons. His unfortunate wiſe ſat beſide him, having voluntarily
choſen to follow him in his baniſhment. We were penetrated with
compaſſion,
472 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1794,
compaſſion, when we heard from the mouth of this unhappy man the
occaſion of his ruin. His name, he told us, was Piromongolo; he was of
the village of Calibongou, in the dependency of the Government of Sama-
rang. He had paid 350 rix dollars to become a freeman of that place,
but was ſupplanted by another perſon, who offered a ſtill larger ſum for
the ſame privilege; and thoſe who had received his money, inſtead of
returning it to him, thought fit put him out of their way by baniſhing
him to Ceylon, where he was to be in the ſame confinement with many
others of the inhabitants of the Moluccas, who are ſacrificed by the Dutch
to their revengeful diſpoſition, or pretended political intereſts. Amongſt
the injuries that had been heaped upon him, he had been accuſed, he
ſaid, of being a ſorcerer. Though he aſſured us, with a great deal of ſim-
plicity, that if he was one, he had never known any thing about it; but
at any rate he was ſure that thoſe who had robbed him of his three
hundred and fifty dollars, were a much more dangerous kind of forcerers
than he. -
The ſalary which the different Governors of the Iſland of Java receive
from the Dutch Company is very moderate, but then the abuſes are con-
nixed at, which reſult from the very ample indemnification, which the
greater part make themſelves, by raiſing contributions upon the natives to
a much greater amount than what they have to deliver into the maga-
zines of the Company, the ſurplus of which they appropriate to their own
profit.
The Chineſe are almoſt thc only perſons cmployed herc in the cultiva-
tion of ſugar. They ſcarcely make any other than ſugar-candy, which
they are not allowed to ſell, except to the Governor, who purchaſes it on
the Company's account; but frequently he compels theſe unfortunate
Chineſe to ſell it him at half the price which he makes the Company
pay for it, though even they buy it a comparatively low rate.
The contributions which the Governors receive in ſpecic, arc likewiſe
a gest ſource of profit to them, as they keep this money in their own
hands, and pay the amount to the Company in paper. During my ſtay in
Java, their emoluments in this way amounted to twenty per cent.
The
sEPTEMBER.] OF LA PEROUSE, 473
The nomination of the natives to different offices, is likewiſe a ſource
from whence the Governors and Reſidents derive great profits.
On 2d of September we anchored in the roadſtead of Batavia.
4th. After we had remained two days on board, thc Commandant of
the roadſtead condućted us on ſhore, and we were immediately conveyed
to Fort Anké, diſtant not more than about 2,500 toiſes from the town.
The ſame chamber was allotted us, which our companions in misfortune,
Riche and Legrand, had formerly occupied.
We were ſurrounded on all ſides by marſhes, which render this ſitua-
tion very unhealthy : it is, however, much leſs ſo than that of the town,
where, at low water, the black mud colle&ted in a great number of ca-
nals, is expoſed to the heat of the ſun, and exhales the moſt peſtilential ef-
fluvia. The marſhes of Anké, on the contrary, were covered with a variety
of plants, ſo cloſe to each other, that they preſented the appearance of fine
meadows in full vegetation. A great number of different kinds of graſſes,
ruſhes, nelumbo, &c. grew forth from the bottom of the ſtagnantwater, and
the interſtices between theſe plants were covered with large quantities of
the priſia ſtratioſes, which, floating on the ſurface of the water by means of
the ſmall air-bladders with which its leaves are provided at their baſes,
abſorb a great quantity of the noxious vapours as faſt as they are exhaled
from the mud, and change them, with the aid of the ſolar rays, as we
know, into reſpirable air. This tranſmutation is affected by the pſi/ia
more than by any other plant; for it is known by experiment to be
ſo powerful a preventive of the decompoſition of ſtagnant water, that if
fiſhes be put into a ſmall quantity of water, in which they would
otherwiſe periſh in the courſe of a few days, thcy may be preſerved
alive for a long time, by covering its ſurface with theſe fingular plants,
every one of which occupies a ſpace of about nine ſquare inches.
Theſe marſhes are haunted by the chormous ſerpent known by the name
of boa conſºričfor. One of theſe ſnakes came regularly every five or ſix
days, and ſtole one of the fowls from a hen-coop belonging to a publican
in the neighbourhood of Fort Anké, with whom we were allowed to take
3 O Olli
#.
47 'ſ VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1795.
our meals. This publican was a very ſevere maſter; for, whenever he
miſſed one of his fowls he always taxed an old ſlave, who had the care of
his hen-coop, with diſhoneſty; and for every one that diſappeared, he or-
dered fifty ſtrokes of a ratan to be inflicted without mercy upon the un-
fortunate wretch ; but one day the thief having ſwallowed a very large
hen, found himſelf ſo ſtuffed with his meal, that he could not get out of
the coop by the hole through which he had entered ; and the ſlave re-
venged himſelf for the chaſtiſement he had received by cutting the animal
in picces. The fowl, which was taken out of his ſtomach, had been
ſwallowed down head-foremoſt, and had as yet undergone no change in
its ſubſtance. This ſerpent was but of a middling ſize, being only twelve
feet in length ; but a few days afterwards the natives killed one at a ſmall
diſtance from this place, which meaſured forty feet. It appeared that this
animal did not uſe to prey upon fowls ; for they found in his ſtomach a
kid that weighed thirty pounds.
The river that runs at the foot of Fort Anké is frequented by alliga-
tors. One day I ſaw a very large one advance towards a company of boys
who were ſwimming in the river. He immediately ſeized one of them
and diſappeared under the water : nevertheleſs, a few days after another
company of boys came to bathe in the ſame place.
During the laſt months of our ſtay at Anké, four officers of the French
privateer Le Modeſtc were confined in the ſame fortreſs, and alleviated the
tediouſneſs of our captivity by their company. They had been made pri-
ſoners of war on board of a Dutch veſſel, ſhortly after they had made
prize of her.
The Major of the place, who viſited us very frequently, informed us of
the death of Giradrin, purſer to the Recherche, who was diſcovered to
be a woman, as we had ſuſpected from the beginning of the voyage.
An impulſe of curioſity ſeems to have been her principal motive for em-
barking in this expedition. She had left a very young child behind her
in France. p •
The corvette La Nathalie, having Citizen Riche on board, had been
diſpatched
Nov EMBER. OF LA PEROUSE. 4 / 3
diſpatched from Iſle de France to Batavia in order to demand our veſſels
from the Regency; but, after ſhe had arrived in the roads, ſhe was de-
tained for five months under the cannon of two Dutch ſhips of war, and
all that ſhe could obtain was to ſail back with thoſe perſons belonging to
our expedition who were in confinement, and ſome other French pri-
ſoners of war.
At length, on the 20th of March 1795, we ſet ſail for the Iſle de
France.
It was high tinie for me to be releaſed from my confinement amongſt
the marſhes of Fort Anké, as I had laboured already more than a month
under a dy ſentery, which was making a very rapidprogreſs. But as ſoon
as I was removed into a purer air, my malady diminiſhed from day
to day.
On the 18th of May we arrived at Iſle de France. I made frequent
excurſions among the mountains, where I obſerved a great variety of na-
tural produćtions.
I had long been waiting for an opportunity of returning to my native
country, when at length General Malartic diſpatched the Minerva to
France, under the command of Citizen Laignel, one of my companions
in misfortune. I embarked in this veſſel, which ſailed from Iſle de France
on the 20th of November.
It is remarkable, that during a run of upwards of 600,000 toiſes weſt-
north-weſt, from 25° N. lat, and 31° W, long, we found the ſea covered
with a prodigious quantity officus matans, which indicatc the exiſtence of
ſome very extenſive banks upon which this ſea-weed is produced. This
is a ſubjećt well worthy of the inveſtigation of navigators.
On the 12th of March 1790, we caſt anchor at the Iſle of Bar, from
whence I ſoon returned to Paris.
Soon after I arrived in that city, I was informed that my colle&tions of
natural hiſtory had been ſent to England. The French Government inn-
mediately put in their claim for them, which, being ſupported by Sir Jo-
ſeph Banks, Preſident of the Royal Society of London, with all the exer-
# tions
476 VOYAGE IN SEARCH [1796.
tions that were to have been expected from his known love for the ſci-
ences, I ſoon had the ſatisfaction of finding myſelf again in poſſeſſion of
the requiſite materials, for making known to the world the natural pro-
dućtions which I had diſcovered in the different countries we had viſited
during the courſe of our expedition.
The bread-fruit plants which I left in the cuſtody of the gardener La-
haie, were tranſported, with ſeveral others which he had cultivated, to
Iſle de France; from whence ſome have been ſent to Cayenne, and others
to Paris, where they are depoſited in the hot-houſes of the Botanical
Garden.
APPENDIX.
A P P E N D I X.
–ºmeº e >}{- O exº~
VOCABULARY OF THE LANGUAGE OF THE MALAYS.
A.
ACCOMPANY (to)
Accuſtom (to) wº
Adieu, farewel wº
Adultery * tº wº
AEſchinomenegrandiflora
Age 7 iº
Agreeable
Air, wind dº sº
Aloes wº wº
Allum sº sº
Ananas sº * >
Animal, quadruped -
Anchor cº sº
Anona muricata sº
Appetite ſº º
Apply (to) - ºm
Approach (to) sº
After sº sº
Areca sº gº
Army tº: gº
Aromatic tºº gº
Arrack tº *
Arrange (to) <º
Arrive (to) gº gºs
Aſſaſſin tºº dº
Attach (to) ſº s
Attention (to pay) *E*
Any body #º gº
Alſo tº ºr *
Around yº *
Another * ºf sº
Azederac (melia) -
Touroutſama Aſſuredly ſº º gº
Biaſſa At a sº gº
Tabé Already gº <nº
Gendach At length sº tº
Malaſui Above gº tº
Houmour Afterwards sº º
Soucagnia Attempt (to) tº º
Anging Awake (to) tº
Lida boaya Awakened (to be) -
Tauouaſs Angry (to be) dº
Ananas, nanas Ant (an) * tº º
Binatan Adorn one's ſelf (to) -
Sao, baſſi Amongſt sº º
Anoma Able (to be) º
Lapar Almoſt * * * sº
Taro Although - sº
Decat Anſwer (to) sº
Commedian, diblacan | Awake (to) & sº.
Pinang Alone sº sº
Bariſſan Ape (an) sº * >
Vangni bahe As ſoon as sº * *
Zopi Always asº gº
Ator All dº º
Datan, poulan Afterwards º
Bounou oran
Icat
Dgiaga Bee sº sº
Trada oran Bark (to) tºº gº
Itou Jagui, lagui Buy (to) tºº gº
Boundre Bring (to) #sº gº
Lain Brought to bed (to be)
Zl
Foula mourgati
Paſti, ſongou
Sama
Souda, abis
Lama lama
Tingui, diyatas
Commedent
Tchouba-tchouba
Kredgia bangon
Sonda bangon
Mara, gueguen
Smouth
Paké bagous
Sama ſama
Bolé
Amper
Meſki
Megniaot
Bangon
Candiri
Mougniet
Kalo
Sela manguia
Samougnia
Lacaſs
Taoun madou
Gongonh
Bli
Kiary
Branan, clouaranac
2 A P P E N D I X.
Beloved tº - Soudatchinta Bat (a) lº - Bourou-ticouſſe
Bitter *- - Pait Bell tºº - Londgin
Bow £º - Pana Baſket * - Kranguian
Behind (from) - Di blacan Body * -º - Badan
Bathe (to) sº - Siram Blow (a) tºº - Tampelin
Before (from) - Di mouca Believe (to) - Cokira, perkiała
Blind sº - Bouta Begin (to) tº - Molai
Before sº - Dolo Bargain (a cheap) - Moura
Bathe (to go to) - Mandi, cloardiaer Burſt, die (to) - Mampoul
Begone gº - Sourby Breakfaſt (to) - Makan pagui
Broom (a) sº - Sappou Behind tºº - Diblacan
Bamboo º - Pring, bambou Beneath *Eº - Dibaoua
Bamboo (very young Before ºf - Di mouca
ſhoots of the) for | Back wº - Blackagnia
pickling - Ribbon Borrow (to) - Pegniem
Banana sº - Piſſang Bewitch (to) - Tauver
Beard wº - Coudek Building (to be in) - Natchiam
Below wº - Dibaoua Be (to) sº - Ada
Baſella rubra - Gandola Brittle £º - Lacas pitchia
Beat (to) * - Pocol Brother tº - Soudara
Beak (bill) º - Molou Bet, lay a wager (to) - Petaro
Betel sº - Siri Boy gº - Boudgian
Bilimbi (averrhoa) - Blimbing Bell (a little) - Loudgin kitkil
Blue * - Birou Broil (to) - Panghan, bakar
Box º - Peti Briſtling – Bagnia rambout
Boraſſus flabelliformis - Lontor Bacon * = - Gommock babi
Brothel wº - Poporket Bed ſº – Tambat tidor
Buckles ſº - Kandging Book sº - Boucou, quitape
(knee) - Canibau But sº - Tapé
Boil (to) sº - Bdidi Beggar tº - Oran minta
Broth jº. - Caldé Bite (to) gº. - Guigui
Bowl esºs - Kegué Blow one's noſe (to) - Bouan ignus
Buttons * - Kantging kain Born (to be) - Datandi donia
Brave sº - Brani, oran brani Bird's neſt - Sarong bourou
Bridle * - Kandali f Black * - Itan
Brick * - Batou Keddon Bird iº - Bourou
Break (to) º - Pitchia, pikiat Buſy (to be) - Fontouli
Bruſh (a) jº - Sicat, fica Bone sº - Toulan
Buffalo gºs - Corbau Bread fruit - Boa ſuccon
Burn one's ſelf (to) - Bauar Bread fruit (wild) - Boa timbol
Brains * - Outac Bread º - Roti
A PP E N DIX.
Butterfly sº
Baſket tº -º
Buffoon gº º
Bet (to) º
Butterfly (a ſpecies of)
Bruiſe (to)
Boat (Indian)
Breaſt (the) * *
Blackguard (a)
Bridge (a) º
Behave well (to)
Bug wº
Breathe (to)
Break (to)
Belch (to)
Beehive (a)
Bleed (to) sº
Blood <-->
Boar (a wild)
Boſom (the)
Blow (to) sº
Box (to) tº-
Beneath *
Barren tº-
Bark, for tanning
By and by ſº
Bull º
Betray (to)
Barter (to)
Blow (to) sº
Belly s
Bladder (the)
Colle&t (to)
Call (to) *
Clay *
Certainly *
Confeſs (to)
Chattercr tºº
Corn, wheat
Koupou, kopokopo
Tampat
Caſſan
Betaro
Koupou malam
Toumbok
Prau
Dada
Oran adjar
Djanbatan
Ada bai
Coutou tampat tidor
Napas
Pata
Ato
Roma taoun
Sangara
Dara
Tcheleng
Souſou, teté
Tihopé
Cambeling
Baoua
Trada patana
Cayou bounko
Sabentar
Lombou
Camblanghan
Toukar ſama
Anguin
Prot
Tampat kinkin
Pungot
Panguil
Lambac
Sacali
Menauo
Bagna teherita
Bras blanda, gandoum
|
Cable *
Chaiſe (a) gº
Coffee *-8
Calamus aromaticus
Cinnamon
Cannon sº
Cardamum (the little)
Careſs (to)
Chariot (a)
Cards, for playing
Caſuarina
Cinders, aſhes
Circle º
Chair (a)
Chalcas camunung
Candle, light (a)
Change, exchange (to)
Coal cº
Chineſe gºs
Chooſe (to)
Coco sº
Coition tº-3
Cucumber
Contrary (on the)
Cord, rope
Corypha umbraculifera
Cotton sº
Colºur º
Cut gº
Crooked sº
Cuſhion º
Cover (a)
Chalk sº
Cry out (to)
Cook (to) sº
Copper *
Cynonnetra cauliflora
Chagrin * -ºº:
Cat sº
Caſtrate (to)
Comprehend (to)
a 2
Tali ſao
Creta ſaſs
Coſfi
Dringho
Cayou manis
Mariam
Gardamoungo
Goſſo
Greta toutoup
Cartou
Cayou ſamara
Abou
Bonder
Croſſi
Kamouni
Lilen
Toucar
Arenh
Orankina
Pili, tchioba
Kalapa, klapa
Tiouki
Timon
Lain
Tali
Saribou
Benan
Roupa
Poton, tadgiam
Benko
Bantal
Combar
Rappor blanda
Bat reia
Maſłac
Tombaga
Nam nann
Saketati
Koutchien, toulia
Rabiri
Tau, men arti
4
A PP E N D IX.
Count, reckon (to)
Condućt (to)
Contrary wind
Cover, encloſe (to)
Cruſh to pieces (to)
Cup Jºe
Church gº
Catch cold (to)
Careleſs sº
Call for (to)
Cunning fº.
Cold *
Cheeſe &=º
Clove tree
Clutches (ſignifying
hands) sºr
Cricket (a ſpecies of)
Climb (to) *
Coarſe *
Clock (a) gº
Conflagration
Cheek (a) tºº
Cowardice tº
Chin sº
Coin, value 2#d.
Cloud (a) *ºr
Comb (a) gº
Comb one's head (to)
Coward $º
Carry (to) sº
Chicken *
Crawl (to)
Chafing diſh
Comc back (to)
Cold (a) rheum
Cuttle fiſh tº
Compačt gº
Century *E*
Cup gºe
Corkſcrew
Iton Cork (to draw a)
Baoua Cloth
Tchenela Cough (to)
Toutoup Cough (a
Toumbo Cow (a)
Manco Come (to)
Gredgia
Pilic
Sarſar, guila Drink (to)
Sourou panguil Dirt
Pinter Dear, high priced
Dinguin, dignin Dog
Kediou Dance (to)
Kenké
Tangan
Yankrek
Naik
Kaſſar
Lontchin
Beſſar api
Pipi
Leſſou
Djiangot
Koupan pera, Ouan
barou
Mega
Ciſler
Ciſſer rambout
Trada brani
Picol
Ayammouda
Dgialan caia oular
Kren
Balai, combali datan
Patoc
Ican pougniabatou
I cat craſs
Seratus ta un
Tchanger
Poutar, Ouler
* wº
Diſcover (to)
Defend (to)
Deſcend (to)
Debt
Diamone
Diarrhea
Difficult
Diligent
Dine (to)
Dolichos tuberoſus
Domeſtic
dº
Demand (to)
Debauch (to)
Dried up
Do (to)
Do that
Ditch (a)
Drop (a)
Dreſs (to)
Dreſs
Diſhoneſt
Damp
Drunk
Day
Daylight (it is)
Day (every)
Dull
Tchiabou
Cagui
Batou
Batou
Sampi paranpouan
Datan, mari, poulan
Minum
Lumpor, cotor
Mahal
Andgin
Tandac
Bouca
Laran
Touron
Outan
Inten
Saket bouanaer
Souſſa
Naguin
Comp, makan ſtinga
3 II *
Bongouan
Oupas, boudac
Minta, tagnia
Ambel praoen loller
Krain, kring
Kredgia
Kredgia itou
Bentin
Tetés
Packian, paké
Packian
Ieng tracaſſi ormat
Baſſa
Mabou
Ari, paguiara
Souda ſiam
Sari ari
Brat
A PP E N D IX.
Death sº - Mati End º - Abis
Die (to) º - Mati Eat (to) agºe - Makan
Dutmb º: - Tra biſſa cata Eye * - Mata
Deny (to) * - Trada menauo Egg a-º. - Talor
Dare (to) t- - Brani Ear - - Kopeng, kopine
Depart (to) ºw - Pigui Eyelid - - Ourat
Depart - - Sourbay Ear-rings *E* - Crabou
Dream (to) - Mnimpi Eſcape (to) - Lari
Dollar (a) º - Real compani Evening - Sori
Dew * - Oumboung Eyebrow * - Halifſe
Dry sº - Souda cring Execute (to) - Oucoum
Dry (to) º- - Cring Earth sº - Tana
Dream tº- - Menimbi Earth (the) - Interrodonia
Deaf -º - Oran touli Empty º - Coſſou
Darkneſs - - Glap, glap Empty water out of a
Deceive (to) - Kamblau boat (inſtrument to) Timba
Dreſs (to) º - Paké Eyes -º- - Mata
E. F.
Expert - - Biſſa Fine (a) º – Denda
Elſewhere - - Lain, dilain tampat Friend - Sobat
Eaſily, with eaſe - Ganpan Friend (female) Sobat paranpouan
Engaged with (to be) Oudgiou Fathom (a) Sato deppa
Enough sº - Souda Fleſh tº- Daguin
Ear-picker - - Gorep copeng Fight (to) Bacalaye
Ebony º - Cayouaram Finger tº Gredgy, yari
Equal -* - Sama-ſama Flay (to) º Clouar koulet
Elephant * - Gadia Frighten (to) Caguct
Emperor *s - Suſſunan Filled up *. Penou
Enemy º - Mouſſo Fly (to) - Lari, ilan
Entry * - Maſſoc Faggot º- Bon kouſan
Enter (to) -* - Maſſocqi dalam Fault wº- Sala
Envelope (to) - Bonkou Falſe (it is) y Djouſta
Epidendum - Angrec Falſehood -> Djouſta
Eaſt - - Vetan Female, woman Paranpouan
Eternity tº- - Porſlamagnia Feſtival - Ari beſſar
Examine (to) - Tagnia Fire * Api
Excrement º - Tai Fever sº Deman
Excuſe tº - Caſli ampon Figure tº- Mouka
Eſteem (to) - Bagnia tehinta Fiſhing-line Dgiolon
Eaſy *. - Trada ſouſſa Flame wº Mniala
6
A P P E N D H X.
Flower sº
Fountain *
Fool *
Forehead 4-º
Fruit <º
Flour *
Flagellaria judica
Flower (to)
Freſh wº
Flog (to) sº
Flee (to) tº-º
Fuſil tº-º.
Fat (ſubſt.)
Fat (adj.)
Frog $ºm
wº
Fortunate sº
Fiſh-hook sº
Formerly
Farthing (a)
Free tº
Far sº
Fly (a) gº
Forget (to) º
Fiſh (to) º
Father sº
Fear wº
Foot sº-3
Flat -
Full *
Fold a napkin (to)
Feather (a)
Frying-pan
Fiſh &º
Firſt º
Flea (a) sº
Fetch (to) sº
Fill (to) –
Field of rice (a)
Filthineſs *-
Comban, bounga
Summur
Bodo, oran guila,
guendan
Alis
Boua-boua
Debon
Rotan outan
Comban
Dinguin
Pocol
Lari, bourou
Pedel, ſuapan
Gommock
Gommok
Codoc
Slamat, beronton
Pantchien
Dolo
Keppen
Merdica
Dgiau
Lalar
Loupa
Ambel ican
Papa
Caguet, tacot
Kaki
Samarata
Penan
Lipa ſerbetta
Penant, boulou, bou-
longouſa
Ouadjan
Ican
Lebi daulon
Coutou andgin
Kredgia bai
Kredgia penou
Sava
Cotor
gº Fooliſh gº wº
Follow (to) :=
Tall (to) * * º
Flock (a) gº
Find (to)
Friday sº wº
Food sº tºr
Face (the) &E *
Fly (to)
º: wº
Grieve (to) gº
Garlic - º
Go (to)
Good gº sº
Gourd (a) *ºs
Goat ~ * sº
God tº º
Give (to) nºs gº
Gain (to) º
Gay gº sº
Gallop (to) sº
Guard (to mount) -
Guard (to) gº
Generous gº º
Gcſture tºº *º
Glutton º º
Goave gº º
Great gº º
Gratis * tºº
dº
*º
Grimace sº wº
Guide º º
Gentecl dº *-*
Gold lacc * *
Green turf º
Gums (the) sº
Gipſum sº ſº-
Gouramier (a fiſh thus
named) º ºr
Guila, bodo
Tchinda, tourout
Guiatou
Bagnia binatan ſama
ſama
Dapat
Ari diemat
Daguin
Mouka
Minkiourri
Saquetati
Baouan pouti
Dialan, pigui
Bahé, taillou, enac
Labou pandang
Cambing
Touanala, toueran allé
Caſſi
Onton
Enac ati
Dialan tell
Djaga
Simpan
Paſaran
Tinkagnia
3agnia makan
Goryavc
Beſſar, tingui
Trabolé trima, per
kiouſma
Tinka
Toniou dialan
Halus
Paſmin
Roumpot
I canguigui
Taufou
I can gourami
A P P E N DIX.
Growl (to) * *
Graſs gº
Garden gºs
Greens * =
Grind (to)
Gall-nut tº
Gold º ºg
Gate (a) Ǽne
Gunpowder
Gather (to)
Gird (to) *
Graſshopper
Green º
Glaſs wº
Have (I) gº
Hunchbacked
Heat tºº
Hot sº
Hunting (to go a)
Heat (to) •-
Horſe Eºs
Hair sº
Hat *
Hardwareman
Heart sº
How much
How 4.- :
Horn * -
Hog tºº
Hook (a) &_º
Half gº
Hard gº
Hear (to) ºs
Hell tº
Huſband e-
Hope gº
Hungry (to be)
Hole (a) * -º
Hatchet (a)
Marat
Roumpot
Kabon
Sayor
Tumbok, tourmbo
Madia cané
Maſs
Pintou
Obat paſſan
Aumbel
Icatcras tali prot
Balang
Idgiau, ougou
Kermine
Ako ada
Pounco
Panas
Panas
Pigui paſſan
Maſſac
Kouda
Ranbout
Toppi
Toucanclinton
Yanton
Barapa
Saya
Tandou
Babi
Tiantolan
Stinga
Cras
Dinghcr
Nourakka
Tenanten laki
Kira
Lappar
Poton
Camba
Haſh (to) *
Hate (to) tº-º
Harem gº
High a-
Helićteres iſora
Hernandia ovigera
Hour's walk (an)
Hour (an)
Hibiſcus tiliaceus
Hiſtory 4-
Honeſt tºº
Honour sº
Howl (to)
Here gº ºs
Hire a coach (to)
He tºº
Hand sº
Houſe tº-8
Hammer (a)
Honey sº
Handkerchief
Hang (to)
Hairdreſſer
Heavy sº
Hair *E*.
Hen (a) º
However *-*
Horſe radiſh
Health *-
His *
Hold (to)
Head º
Hole *
Hole (to make a
Here wº
I finglaſs º-
Immediately
ln, within
Itch (to) *
Kinkian
Benki, marat
Seller
Tingui
Boa radja
Cayou radja
Sato djaum
Pocol
Ouarou
Kirita
Caſſi ormat
Ormat
Boubouni
Di ſini
Sewan Creta
Dia
Tangan, guearé
Rouna
Pocol beſii
Madou
Sapo tangan, linſo
Ganton
Toucanciſier
Erat *
Boulou
Ayam
Mouſti
Loba
Slamat
Pougnia
Pegandi tangan
Capala
Louka, loban
Kredgia loban
Ada
Andiour
Sécaran
Didalam
Krechia, main main
8
A PPE N DIX.
Inkſtand sº
Ink gº
Infant, male or female
Intoxicate (to)
Inter (to) sº
Intirely gº
Iron *
Itch (the)
Inhabit (to)
Inherit (to)
Idea *
Ignorant &=
Iſland gº
Imitate (to)
Immoveable
Impatient ſº
Impertinent
Impoſſible sº
Impotent
Inconvenient
Immodeſt sº
Indigo tºº
Infamous gº
Infeółed wº
Injury sº
Innocent •º
Inundation
Inundate (to)
Inſe&ts * *
Inſipid º
Inſtruct (to)
Invent (to)
Irritate (to)
Ill sy
Iron clothes (to)
If gº
In conſequence of
Ivory * =
Jealous sº
Join (to) *
Tampat touliſs
Tinta
Anak
Mabou
Tanam
Baſti
Beſſi
Garo
Tingal
Depat poſſaca
Pekiran
Bodock
Poulou
Tourotan
Trada goian
Trataan
Brani
Traboulé
Tra bolé kredgia
apapa
Souſſo
Trada malou
Nila
Trada malougna
Bouſſouc bagnia
Maki
Trada ſala
Banguir
Banguir
Taoun, mahémahé
Tra enack
Adiar
Dapat
Kredgia mala
Iahat
Streka
Kalo
Saya
Toulan gadia
Gembourouan
Kredgia ſama ſama
Joined together - Diadi
Jew wº - Chemaos
Juſt º - Betol
Jaw (the) sº - Daguin guigui
*- K.
Kiſs (to) tº - Caſſitioum, tioum
Kiſs my a-e - Guilapantat
Key dºs - Kounki
Know (to) - Kenaille
Knife sº - Piſſou
Kitchen gº - Dapor
Knees g- - Loutou
Knock (to) - Tendiſs
King *º-ºr - Sultan, radja
Kingdom º - Rami
Kicking sº - Seppa
Know (to) - Larac
Knit (to) - Mindgeait cauſs
Kill (to) º - Touſſou
L.
Lean on one's elbow (to) Soungouan
Love (to) - Tchinta, ſouca
Love tº - Tohinta
Lean, reſt upon (to) Taro tyaga
Leaſe (a) - Bea
Leaſe (to let on) - Malas, anghop
Lame * – Pintchan
Lime *...* - Kappor
Limeſtone - Batou kapper
Lemon fº - Dierro aſſam
Lie down (to) - Tidoran
Like that º - Beguitou, beguini
Lightning - Biglap
Light (to) - Tran
Leaf (a) º - Daun, blaye
Liver (the) - Ati
Left (the) * - Kiri
Leg 4s - Coeto
Labour (to) - Patchiol
A PP E N DIX.
Lake imº
Leave (to)
Large tº
Light sº
Letter (a) *-
Lip º
Lizard sº
Libertine º
Limonia trifoliata .
Linen sº-
Lion º
Long -
Light *E*
Lick (to) -
Let for hire (to)
Lye (to tell a.)
Looking-glaſs
Leſs ->
Loſe (to) -
Loſe at play (to)
Little : ºr
Little (a) -
Lead sº
Lay eggs (to)
Louſe (a) -
Lungs (the)
Lend (to) -
Line a) wº
Liquorice -
Loins (the)
Lift up (to)
Laugh (to)
Leech (a)
Learned tº-
Leap (to) -
Lord †->
Like *
Lock (a) -
Lockſmith
Lukewarm
Aer beſſar
Lapaſs
Lebar
Trada brat
Sourat
Biber
Kikia
Brani ſama paran-
pouan
Mekantkil ou dierre
kitkil
Baran
Singo
Paguian
Tran, ſiam
Quilet
Tcro
Djouſta
Katchia, kiarmine
Kouran
Ilan
Kala
Kirkil, penkek
Sidiquet
Tima itan
Betalor
Coutou
Parou
Piundjoun, pignian
I can pare
Cayou manis blanda
Blacan
Ancat
Tetaoua
Lynta
Oran pinder
Bloundgiat, blunpat
Touan be ſlar
Sama roupa
Ma coundgy
Toucan coundgy
Sangat
Life -
Live (to)
Money *
Magnificent
Much -
Mouth º
Mallard (a)
Muſhroom
Marry (to)
Muſt (it)
Man (a)
Mongrel Indian
Milk º
Monday *
Moon (the)
Mace *-
Maſon (a)
Madam tºº
Miſs -
Maſter *
Malay -
Male -
Mangouſtan
Merchant
Mix (to)
Mc Imber º
Mercury, quickſilver
Mother -
Meſſenger *
Meaſure (to)
Metal *º-
Michelia champaca
My -
Middle -
Miracle *
Miſery tººk
Manner --
Mc *
Idop
Idop
Ouan
Bagous
Segala, bagnia-talalo
Moulot, moulou
Bebé
Diamour
Caven
Miſti
Oran, ourang, laki-
laki
Leplap
Aer ſouſſou
Ari finen
Boulan
Combang pala
Toucau batou
Gnien, Gnognia
Ana dara
Touan
Malayo tabalé
Laki laki
Mangouſtan
Oran djoual merdika
Chiamper
Badan
Aer pera
M it, ma, mama
Kiri iman
Oukor
Tambaga
Cananghan
Pougnia
Ditingan
Eran
Kaſlieu
Patout
Goa, ako, beta
lo A PP E N D IX,
Month sº - Boulan . Net (a) º
Moment - - Sabantar Noon *
Monoculus polyphemus Mimi
Mountain º - Gounon Nails •º
Mount (to) - Naik Nutmeg, long
Mock (to) – Kredgia malo - CO II, II). On
Morinda citrifolia - Bancoudon Nauclea orientalis
Muſtard - - Savi Neceſſary (it is)
Muſcle *- - Ourat * (it is not)
Muſic *- - Mainan Negligent cº-
Meagre * - Kourous Negle&t (to)
Misfortune - Kielaka Noſe -
Malicious * - Trada bahe Niece º
Manage (to) - Pegan Name (to)
Mark (a) & - Tanda Not º
Mattreſs (a ) - Combeſs Nouriſh (to)
Marrow º - Gommok pougnia News º
toulain Nut º
Mould * - Bouſſouc Naked º
Mortar for rice (a wooden) Loumpan Night *
Mulatto - - Groubiak Navigate (to)
Mat (a) -* - Ticker Nail (of the fingers)
Marriage -> - Kaven Near this place
Marriageable - Souda biraie Nine-pins -->
More sº - Lebi Nothing wº
Maidenhead - Praoën North gº
Mend (to) - Kredgia betol Neighbouring
Move (to) º - Goian
Midwife wº - Paranpouan brana
Mouſe (a) – Ticouſſe peti Ox (an) º
Milk (to) - - Deppo One-eyed ->
Miſtaken (to be) - Souda ſala, trada betol Of, of the *
Once sº
N. Oil º
Ncedle - - Dgiarum Oyſter º
Noſegay sº - Comban Odd (not even)
Noiſe - - Glouadagan Obey (to)
Neck - - Leher Obliged (much)
Nr. ver º - Pougnia homour Obſcure -º-
Now -> - Secaran Obtain -
Notwithſtanding - Maſqui Odor - *
Sombou
Doua plas pocol, ſtin-
ga ari
Pakou
Pala laki laki
Pala ſabran
Bancal
Miſki kredgia
Traouſſa
Malaſs
Loupa
Idon
Tchion tohiou
Panguil, pouranama
Boucan, trada tida
Caſſi makan
Kerita
Bigui
Tlangnian
Malam
Blayer
Koukou
Decat ſini
Ana kegue
Trada
Nalor
Decat
Sampi
Bouta ſato
Di, deri
Sakali
Miniac
Tiram
Benko
Dinguer
Tremacaſſi
Kouran tran
Dapat
Vangni, bau
A PP E N ID IX.
1 I
Officer º-
Offer (to) -
Onion -
Opium tºº
Orange wº
Ordinary ->
Order (to)
Ornament
Or º
Open (to) º
Oxalis º
Overthrow (to)
Only º
Often g-
Old man *
Old woman
Old º
Oppoſite i-
Paſſion (to be in a)
Pickles -
Preſerve (to)
Prawn -
Paſte sº
Poiſon (to)
Pregnant woman
Pierce (to)
Pin (a) *
Pewter tº-
Paint sº
Poſteriors (the)
Pride sº
Pomegranate
Play º
Play (to) tº-
—-- at cards
Place (a) ºr
Paps *
Phyſician º
Alferus
Mao caſſi
Baouan, baouan mera
Amphion, madat
Djerro manis, guiroh
Slamagna
Souro
Beda
Ké
Bouca
Galing galing tana
Thutan
Kiouma
Bagni kali
Oran toua
Mémé toua
Toua
Dimouka, decat
Mara
Maniſang
Simpan
Oudan di laot
Kantging
Radgiun
Bonting
Tindiſs
Fenitti
Tima
Borrei
Pantat
Pſarati
Delima
Meinan
Mim, main
Main cartou
Tampat
Souſou
Toucanobat, miſtris
baſſar
Phyſic tºº. *
Put (to) - -
Piece (a) dº -
I lane (a) a joiner's tool
P, oud *- tº
P.jr (a) - -
Pair of ſhocs a-
Peace - **-
Pale, wan -
Peacock * -
Pardon wº *-
Part (ſome) -
Partake (to) tº-
Pace - -
Paſs (to) --> *
Paved with brick -
Poor *- cº-
Pay (to)
Peaſant sº *
Pierce (to) *-
Pearl --> 4->
Permiſſion sºr -
Perroquet -
Perſuade (to) G-
People - -
Perhaps -> -
Piaſtre - -
Pigeon - *-
Pimento - sº
Pimento and onions
(a mixture of) sº-
Pinch (to) -
Pipe (for ſmoking) -
Plain (a) º: -
Pleaſe (to) <- *-
Pleaſure * - -
Plank --> º
Plant (a) º -
Plunge (to) -
Poignard * *
Poinciania pulcherima
b 2
Oba’t
Terro, taro
Saparo
Konting lelen
Beſſa run
Paſſan
Sato paſſan ſapadou
Abis pram
Poutchiac
Bourou merac
Ampon
Di mana, mana
Bagui-bagui
Petcha
Guiabran, piko
Batou bin
Meſquin
Baiar
Oran di gounon
Kredgia loban
Moudiara
Amet
Lori
Beſankal
Bagniaoran
Brancali
Real batou
Bourou dara
Tchiabé
Sambal
Tchoubet
Kioupa
Lappan
Souca
Souca ati
Papan
Taneman
Sloroup
Criſs
Bougnia merac
1 2.
A P P E N }} { X.
Pepper *
Porter (a) tºº.
Poſſeſs (to)
Poſſible º
Pot (a) º
Puſh (to) x-r
Preach (to) sº
Precious *
Predićt (to)
Prefer (to) gº
Prince sº
Profound gº
Promiſe (to)
Prudcnt * *
Powerful *gº
Puniſh (to)
Purgative *
Pure sº
Phyſic (to take)
Paint (to) * =
Pare (to) tº-
Petrolium º
Peſtle (a) gºs
uſed for rice
Pickaxe (a)
Prick (to) sº
Porcupine
Port (a) sº
Pulſe (the) sº
Purſlain sººn
Putrid sº
Proper gº
Puſh back (to)
Path º
Pićture (a)
Potatoes gº
Pour (to) * -º
Quickly
Merikia'lada
Bator
Pougnia
Brancali
Coali
Tola
Mantcho
Bagnia rega
Soulap
Candati
Pneran
Dalam
Dgingi
Oran diam
Bai diam
Tchelaka
Obat obat
cardgia perſ prot
Nana
Minum obat bouan aer
Tchet
Koupas
Miniac taua
clouar,
Ana, ana toumbok
Ana loumpan
Brodjol
Touſſo, paco paco
Landap
Moara
Ourat
Guelang
Bouſſouc
Perſi
Mundor
Dialemkitkil
Gambar
Kandaan
Taro
Lacaſs
|
Quarter (a)
Quarrel (a)
Quit (to)
Queen
Quick
Ring (a)
Road, way
Raſcal
Run (to)
Right
Right-hand
Releaſe (to)
Rely on (to)
Rogue
Rub (to)
Rude
Relax (to)
Riſe (to)
Road (to)
Rather
Ripe
Relative (a)
Rain (to)
Rain
Requeſt (to)
Root (a)
Relate (to)
Rare
Rat gº
—- (muſk)
Receive (to)
Relate (to)
Refuſe (to)
Regard (to)
Reign (to)
Rejoice (to)
Religion
Remedy
Repair (to)
Prapat
Stori
Tra tingal
Ratou
Lacaſs
Tchintchin, tchinkien
Dialan
Bank ſat
Lari
Betol
Kanan
Kredgia beſſar
Pretchaia
Oran menkiouri
Goſſo
Kaſſar
Lapaſs
Bangon
Bou
Lebi bahé
Matan
Sanna
Oudgian
Oudgian
Minta
Acar
Dongnié
Iarang
Ticouſſe
Slourout
Dapat
Taou darilouar
Tra maanna
Liat, tengon
Printa
Guiran
Aſſal
Obat
Kredgia betol
A PPE N DIX.
Regret (to) º
Repent (to)
Reſt (to) -
Reproach (to)
Reſiſt (to) * -
Reſpect (to)
Recolle&t (to)
Remainder
Remain (to)
Retard (to) º
Retain (to)
Reſound (to)
Return (to) º
Reſpect - --
Rhinoceros tº-
Rhubarb * º
Rich tº- -
Ridiculous º a-
River (a) cº- -
Rice (dreſſed) tº-
Rice (in ſtraw)
Rice (the grain) -
Rock º -
Round - -
Roſe (a) -
Rotang (the fruit of the
calamus) sº
Roaſt (to) -
Red rº
—-- blood - -
Redden (to)
Rupee sº
Route -
Ribband *
Ruby (a) -
Rivulet º
Row (to) *º
Rancid -
Raſp (a) º
Raſp (to) -
Reſtore (to)
Saian
Geton
Tidoran
Coré
Lavan
Ormat
Eignet
Lebignan
Tingal, nanti
Nanti
Pegan
Boubouni
Balec
Slamat
Badoc
Calamba
Kaia
Eni bolé tetaoua
Aer kali, kali
Naſi
Padi
Braſs
Batou beſſar
Bonder
Combang maouer
Boa ſalac
Goring, backar
Mera
Treva toua
Kredgia mera
Roupia
Dialun
Fita
Meera
Kali kitkil
Daion
Cras
Proudan
Parot
Caſſi combali
Repaſt (a) dº
Roſin ->
Reſpect (to)
Reſemble (to)
Roſe-tree (a)
Ruſt º
Roll (to) *
Reſide (to)
Remember (to)
Raſh -
Roof -
Rod (iron)
Shorten (to)
Sour gº.
Sharp, moroſe
Soul º
Spider -
Silver -
Sit down (to)
Swallow (to)
Seize, ſnatch (to)
Sweep (to)
Ship (a) -
Stick (a) -
Stammer (to)
Soon *º-
Shut (to)
Shine, glitter (to)
Sheep sº-
Stag (a) -
Song (a) º
Sing (to) -
Seek (to) -
Scar wº
Shirt -
Sky *
Sciſſars -->
Spit (to) -
Spitting-baſin
Makan
Damar
Ormat
Sama roupa
Pohon maouet
Cotor beſi
Goulon
Tengal
Ingat
Brani
Roma tingui
Sica
Kredgia prendec
Podes
Aſſam
Dgiva
Laoua-laoua
Pera
Doudou
Talan
Tchabout
Sappou
Prau
Rotan, touca
Kago
Chanbentar, bloum
Toutoup
Tran
Domba
Rouſſa
Mingniagni
Migniagni
Kiari
Louca
Kmcdia
Laoughit
Gounting
Bouan louda, louda
Tampat louda
| 1
A PP E N D I X.
Shell (a) -
Shoemaker gº
Short
Sew (to) *º
Spoon *
Since gº
Since yeſterday
Sunday *
Say (to) wº
Sleep (to) ºr
Softly *
Sweet gº
Scale •º
Squirrel (flying) ſciu-
rus ſagitta
She *
Scratch (to)
Span (a) $º
Send (to) tºº
Shoulder * -º
Sword $º
Shilling (Dutch)
Slave gº
Sort, kind dº
Sneeze (to)
Spark (a) º
Silk ſtuff º
Star (a) gº
Strangle (to)
Study (to) gº
Stirrups tº
Strait, narrow
Split (to) sº
Slender sº
Stroke
would a cat
(to) as one
Strong gº
Smoke *
Slip (to) º
Skilful sº
Swallow (a)
Kran, bia
Toucan ſpadou
Pendec
Mſyndgeait
Sendock
Sila magna
Dari kalamaren
Ari mingo
Bilin, kata, dekata
Tidor
Palan palan
Manis
Tiram
Vello
Coč
Garo
Quilan
Tirem, kirin
Ponda
Pedan
Satali
Laſcar
Roupa
Ouain
Mniala
Kain ſoutra
Bindan, bintam
Ganton
Adiar
Songo veddi
Teſak
Poton
Alos
Poutre koutchien
Koat, cras
Acep
Leitchin
Biſſou
Bourou ſasāpi
|
Shame
Swear (to)
Spear (a)
Slowly
Sick
Stake (to)
Sailor sº
Same (the)
Spare (to)
Sea
Snotty
Soft sº
Sheep
Swim (to)
Shipwreck
Smell
Storm
Shade º
Sorrel tº
Slothful
Speak (to)
Skin 4 º'
Shovel (a)
Stone (a)
Several
Smooth
Sermon (a)
Stink (to)
Since gºs
Some *
Sometimes
Somebody
Shave (to)
Shut up (to)
Shark (a)
Succeed (to)
Sea-ſhore (the)
Scurf
Steep
Snore (to)
Street tº
sº
Malou
Soumpan
Tomba
Plan plan
Saket
Paha
Golo golo
Itou djouga
Simpan
Laot
Ignus
Lembec
Kambing blanda
Brenan, tourou
Pitchia kappal
Baugnia
Omba
Baiam ſombar
Souri
Malaſs
Cata, bilan
Coulet
Patiol
Batou gounon
Bagnian
Litchen
Santri
Bouſſoc, baſſin
Kalo
Apapa
Barankali
Oran
Tchioucour, atchia
Toutoup
Ican, kiou–kiou
Bolé kredgia
Pinguer laot
Coring
Bagous cras
Mongoro
Guiabau
A PPE N 1) I X,
Sand :-
Sabre *r
Sack ..sº
Saltpetre * *
Salute you (I)
Salute (to) tº
Saturday * =
Sandal wood
Sattin sº
Sauce &
Savory sº
Savage a.ºr
Scorpion sº
Sculptor sº
Sebeſtena (cordia)
Second sº
Secret • 2
Salt sº
Sow (to) wº
Senſible wº
Sepulchre *º
Serious tº
Snake sº
w
Serpent (boa conſtrićtor)
Signalize (to)
Sign (to) gº
Silence tº
Sincere *º
Salt (to) gº
Spittle gº
Shoe (an old)
Savour, taſte
Soap sº
Saw (a) gº
Saw wood (to)
Saddle (a) $º
——-- (to)
Smell (to)
Squeeze (to)
Syrup &
Sober * =
Paſſer, paſsir
Spadel, pedang
Caroun
Garaun blanda
Tabea, tabé
Tabé
Ari ſeptou
Tchindana
Kain ſattin
Koa
Enac
Outan
Claban
Toucan toheit
Daun candal
Aligna
Diam
Garam
Tanam
Bagnia rougui
Cobouran
Alem
Oular
Oularſaouan
Tandagna
Touliſs namamo
Diam ſadja
Tradjouſta
Garam
Louda
Quenéla &
Enac
Sabon
Gradgié, gregadgi
Gradgié cayou
Ababa
Ababa kouda
Vangui
Pegan bahé bahé
Teteſs
Oran pendiam
Social º
Siſter
Silk *
Soldier sº
Sun ^ºf
Solid *
Solitary -º-º:
Sleep sº
Slumber (to)
Sound :-->
Sulphur sº
Shoe &
Sup (to) * *
Sigh (to) $º.
Source º
Sphinx tº º
Skeleton of a man
Statue &
Stupid wº-
Suddenly *E*
Subſiſt (to)
Subtle wº
Succulent
Suck (to)
Sugar-cane
Sugar (palm)
white
Sugar-candy
Sweet º
South * :
Sweat (to)
Sweat *
Soot *
Suet *
Sultan *
Superb Jº
Supplicate (to)
Suppurate (to)
Sure sº-º:
Surely *-*
Souca ſobat
Soudarenia, fouſ
Soutra
Saragny
Mantare
Cras
Souca candin
Enac tidor
Tidor
Baboni
Beleran
Spadou, guiapaoa
Makan ſori
Tari napaſs
Pandjouran
Koupou fori
Pougnia toulan oran
maté
Déos
Oran bodo
Secaram
Tahan
Alos
Enac
Tioup
Toubou
Goula itan
Goula paſſir
Goula batou
Rafagnia manis
Ridol
Cringat
Criegnote
Aſſap
Gommok cambing
Suldan
Bagnia, bagous
Mlindaubon
Lucat talalo Cotor
Souda paſti
Songou
16
A PP E N DIX.
Surpriſing *
Suſpe&ted º
Sorcerer *
Set off (to)
Solder (to)
Sweet ſcent
Silent +-
Silent (to be)
Slow -
Stain (to) -
| Suck (to) -
Shear (to) º
Sharp sº-
Sorrowful º
Sow (a) tº-
Sell (to) º
Sale ->
See ſomething (to)
Tree sº
To-day º
This, that, tº-
Tickle (to) wº-
Thing, any thing
Toad *
Thigh -
Tub sº
To-morrow
Tooth -
Therefore gº
Together tºn
Thorn *
Twice sº
Tun (a) *
Tremble (to)
Taint (to) gºs
Taſte º
Taſte for (to have a)
sº
– (the day after) Louſſa
Talalo iran
Trada ſobat,
can alam
blum
Bankſat, pagnoulo
Calouar, clouar
Pätri
Craſvangni
Tida teherita
Pandiam
Talalo lama
Tcheit
Minum tâté, miſſop
Konting rambout
Talalo tadgiam
Oran ſouſſa
Babi paranpouan
Djoual
Djoual
Liat apapa
Pohon
Arreini
Itou
Gli
Apapa
Codoc
Paha
Bălé
Beſſo
Guigui
Commeden
Sama ſama
Douri
Doua kali
Gontor
Kaguet
Bouſſouc
Raſia
Raſſagnia
|
Throw (to)
Twins
Till -
—-- to-In OTIOW
Tongue
Tear (a)
Tired *
Tire (to)
Tie (to)
Trunk, box
Tueſday
Threaten (to)
Thin
Take away (to)
Throughout
Think (to)
Thumb
Take (to)
Tail
Thank (to)
Tuck up (to
Turmerick
)
Thirſty (to be)
Tobacco
Table
Taylor
Tamarinds
Tanner (a)
Tempeſt
Time
Time (long)
Tender
Termes fatale
Terror
Tea
Tiger
Timid
Thou, thee
Tomb
Thy
Lempar
Anac combar
Sampé
Sampé befſo
Lida
Nanguic
Leſſou
Leſſou
Icat
Peti
Ari ſlaſia
Kredgia tacot
Litchin
Picoulbaoua
Di ſana ſini, kouli
leng
Piker
Dgenpol
Ambel, pegan
Bountol, ekor
Trema caſſi
Goulon, ancat
Saffran
Ahoſs
Tambaco
Méguia, media
Toucan mindgeait
Aſſam, boa aſſam
Toucan coulet
Omba beſſar
Sampa
Lama
Laumaeſs
Sounouth poetri
Tacot
Daun the
Makian
Trada brån
Oſſe, koč, lou, dia
Coubouran
Koé pougnia
A PPEND Ix.
1;
Thunder (to)
Thunder
Torrent º
Total * ºr
Touch (to) ,
Torment ... •
Turn (to) jº
Turtle-dove
Traſfic (to)
Tranquil
Tranſcribe (to)
Tranſparent
Tranſpire (to)
Tranſport (to)
Tremble (to)
Treſpaſs (to)
Treaſure êº
Tribute * -
Triumph (to)
Too much
Too little wº
Tumult gº
Temples
Terminate (to)
Tortoiſe (a)
-— (river)
Tipple (to)
Trot (to) {º
Tile (a) º
Tube (a) º
Town (a)
True « . »
Untie (to) gº
Ungrateful sº
Unjuſt tº
Uſeleſs sº
Unfortunate
Undoubtedly
Bekilap
Goundor
Eroſs
Samougnia, iton
Tolac
Sexa
Cleyling bounder
Pourcoutout
Daganghen, djoual
Diam leren
Toulis combaly
Katchia
Aer cringat clouar
Kiari
Guementar
Souda maté
Tanan maſs
Bea
Slamal depatonton
Tulalo bagnia
Talalo ſidiquet
Gueguer
Pilingam
Abis
Pignou, koura koura
Voulous
Slamat minum
Dgiatou
Guenden, batou gu-
enden
Becacas
Cota, negri
Betol
Lapaſs
Trada trima
Trada patout
Tra houſa
Kielakakan
Paſt;
Uniform £e º
Urine º tº º
Ugly º (º,
Vaniſh (to) -
Villain (a) sº
Very sº *
Veſſel, ſhip gº
Veſſel, utenſil “º
Vine sº- º
Village ſº *
Vinegar º * ->
Violet gº tº ºr
Violin $º wº
Viſit (to pay a) tºº
Voice gº gº
Volcanic ſtone *
Vomit (to) *
Vomitive º * -->
Wait (to) tº 3-º
With tº sº
Well (adverb) gº
White * * *-*.
Wound (to) gº
Wood * sº
-, a kind of black
veined, in great eſti-
mation with the Ja-
vaneſe * * = .
Wax sº *
Without (from) º
Wiſh (to) &º
Water gº wº
Write (to) gº tº
Wife dº º
Window * º
Weak º gº
Whip (a) * º
C
Sama roupa
Kinkin
Yatel
Iatouſlau
Bank ſat
Bagnia, talalo
Capal
Tampat
Pohonangor
Negri
Thiouka
Mera mouda
Viola
Liatoran
Sonara
Batou timbou!
Mouta
Obatmouta
Nanti
Sama
Bahé, bay
Pouti
Touffo
Cayou
Cayou pelet
Irouan
Dilour
Kepegné
Aer
Touliſs
Penanten
Tzendela
Trada koat
Dgemetey
! 3
A PPE N DIX.
Waſp *_º
War *
Weak gº
Wool tºº
Waſh (to)
WWho, which
When sº
Want (to) *
Wałk (to) *
Wicked sºs
Wicked thing (a)
Waggiſh *
VVater melon
Wedneſday
World (the)
Word (a) tº
Wet (to) sº,
Whiſkers tº
Whiſper (in a)
We dº
Where º
Weſt aº
Workman gº
Weigh (to)
Weep (to) sº
Why gº
Walk (to take a)
Whore (a) gº-ºº:
VWhen tºº
V"ſhat is it
VV ho &
Who is there
VWhat wº
Wrinkle (a)
Week gº
Whiſtle (to)
Whilſt {º
Witneſs sº
Work (to) –
Water (to make)
Taoun
Pram
Trabrani, trabiſſa
Kappas blanda
Touki
Sapa
Kapan, kalo
Sala
Dialan, koulelen
Yahat, mara
Bouſſouc
Nacal
Paſteka
Ari ribbou
Donia, interredonia
Percataan
Kredgia baſſa
Cornis
Biſi biſi
Kita
Di mana, mana
Coulon
Toucan
Kredgia brat
Manangnis
Manapa
Pigui clelin
Sondel
Kapan, kalo
Apa coran
Sapa
Sapada
Apa
Kiſſot
Sato dimingo
P}(, it
Kºło
Oran ſaxi
Kredgia apapa, ancat
kredgia
Koutchieng
Watch wº - Bangan
Wind º - Anguin
Wine sº - Angor
(palm) - Sacaver
Willing (to be) - Mao
Y.
Year tºº. - Taun
Yet gº - Lagui
Yeſterday tº - Kalamaren
--— (the day be-
fore) sº - Kalamaren daulou
Yellow $º - Couning
Young & º - Mouda
Yes tºº - Bai
Your tºº - Pougnia
You tº - Koč, lou
NUMER IcAL TERMs,
One gº - Sato
Two tºº - Doua
Three * , - Tiga
Four ſº - Ampat
Five {º - Lima
Six wº - Anam
Sevcn sº - Toudion
Eight 4 º' - Delapan
Nine tºº - Sambilan
Ten ... -º - Sapoulou
Eleven sº - Sapoulou ſato, or ſublas
Twelve º - Sapoulou doua, or dou-
ablas
Thirtcen - Sapoulou tiga, or tigablas
Fourteen - Sapoulou ampat, or am-
patblas
Fiftcon * - Sapoulou lima, or lima-
blas
Sixtecn &º - Sapoulou anam, or anam-
blas
Sevent.cc.n - Sapoulou toudiou, or tou-
dioublas
A P P E N DIX.
10
Eighteen - Sapoulou delapan, or de-
lapan blas
Nineteen - Sapoulou ſambilan, or
ſambilan blas
Twenty - Doua ſapoulou, or doua
poulou
Twenty-one - Doua ſapoulou ſato, or
doua poulou ſato, &c.
Thirty º- º
Tiga poulou, or tiga ſa-
poulou
Thirty-one - Tiga poulou ſato, &c.
Hundred * - Saratous
Two hundred - Doua Katous
Thouſand - Ceribou
Ten thouſand - Cequety
Hundred thouſand -
Celaxa
VOCABULARY OF THE LANGUAGE OF THE SAVAGES OF
DIEMAN'S LAND.
A.
ARMS (the) - Gouna lia
B.
Beard º - Conguiné
Branch of the eucalyp-
tus with its leaves - Poroqui
Bark of a tree - Toline
Bird º - Mouta mouta
Baſket gºs - Terre
Breaſt of a man - Ladiné
- of a woman – heré
Here, as in many other inſtances, lia placed at
the end of a word indicates the plural number.
C.
Charcoal, reduced to
powder, with which
thcy covcr their bodies Loira
Cut (to) mº- - Rogueri, toidi
Crown of ſhells - Canlaride
Chin º - Onaba
D.
}) rink (to) tº- - Laina
Peath, to die - Mata
IDiſtance (at a) - Renauê
|
Eat (I will) º
Ears *-* &
Eyes (the) - -
Fingers 6- *
Family (my) -
Fire q- tº-º
Fly (a) - tº-
Fiſh (ſmall) of the ſpe-
cies of gadus sº
G.
Go and eat *
Give me tº º
Greaſe (to) the hair –
Graſs - *
H.
Hair º- --
Hands sº º
I.
I will go º --
K.
Knees &º sº
C 2.
Madé guera
Cuegni lia
Nubru nubéré
Lori lori
Tagari lia
Une
Oéllé
Pounerala
Mat guera
Noki
Lane pocré
Poéné
Pelilogueni
Riz lia
Ronda
Ragua lia
‘... O
A PP E N D IX.
Plunge (to) -
Poliſhing (the ačt of)
with a ſhell -
S.
Sit down tº º
Sleep (to) *
Sclerya (a ſpecies of
very large) *
Sun (the) wº sº
Stone (a) tº- º
Sea weed, (a ſpecies
of) fucus ciliatus -
See (I) sº t-
T.
That belongs to me -
Tree of the ſpecies
eucalyptus tº
That º º
Teeth *º tº-
Throw (to) ſº
Tongue -
Tatooing - ->
Trunk of the euca-
lyptus *º- -
This way - 4-
W.
- Quani
Woman º
Will you come wº-
Y.
You tº- *
Bugure
Rina
Medi
Malougna
Leni
Panuméré
Loine
Roman inou
Quendera
Patourana
Tangara
Averé
Pegui
Pegara
Méné
Paléré
Perébé
Lomi
Quangloa
Kcrnel of the cuca-
lyptus reſinifera - Manouadra
Kangarou's ſkin - Boira
L.
Let us go 2- - Tangari
Lobſter - - Nuélé
Łips º º Mogudé lia
M.
A ſc wº - Mana
Me (for) º - Paouai
Mortal (that is) - Mata enigº,
Muſcle (ſea) - Mirč
N.
Noſe º - Muguiz
Name of a man - Mara
Name (another) for a man Mera
Navel (the) fºr - Luč
No - - Ncudi
Nails of the toes - Peré lia
— of the fingers - Toni lia
O.
Oyſter-ſhell - Louba
Ochre * - Mallaué
P.
Poſteriors º - Nunó
Pi)}ow (a ſmall) on
which the men lean Roč ré
Parrot sº – Mola
Nina
VOCABULARY OF THE LANGUAGE OF THE FRIENDLY ISLANDS.
A.
Agreeable (that is very) Mariché
Armpit (the) - I fad fing
Arms (the) º - Nima
Arrow (an) - Houloumata
Afraid (to be) º
Applauſe (a term de-
noting) after a ſong
Awaken (to) sº
| Ariſc (to) *
Feitama manavače
Mali
Haha
Tohou
A PPE N DIX.
2 l
Halé atou
Tougué maié
Foudgi, aoba
Taha
Koepoulé
Foa
Cerbera mangas (a gar-
Begone tºº
Bring me that gº
Banana ſº *
Beat (to) * = º
Bulla ovum (a ſhell
thus named) * *
Broken ſº *
Bed (to go to) <º
Brother (my) wº
Boy a) sº wº
Blow one’s noſe (to) -
Black, blue sº
Birds sº sº
Baſket (a) gº gº
Breaſt (the) sº *
Poſom * * * tº
Bladder of a pig, blown
Bring (to) wº Jº
Bow (a) sº º
Beard tº tºº
Preakers &º tº ºf
Brother's younger bro-
ther tºº *ºs
Burial place gº sº
Back (the) º tº-º
Bread fruit tº gº.
Beads (glaſs) gºs
Bad wº º
Bone wº *
Breadfruit tree * -->
Butterfly 4 º' * *
Breathc sº gº
Blood •=º dº
Call (to) a chief, or a
man of the claſs of
Moua º *
Call that (what do you)
Togoda
Foenna, fanao
Tama
Fungouyou
Ouly
Manou
Cato
Fatta
Houhou
Monou manou
Tohague
Fana
Koumou, kava
Cacaho
Teina
Tano
Toua
Mei
Kahoa
Kovi
Houſi
Toya
Pépé, bébé
Malava
Totto
Maliou mai
koi-koa, koai hoin-
ghoa
land of flowers of the) Kodgi alé
Cocoa-nuts sº *
Cut (a) * -º sº
Cry out (to) tº-
Cold * tº-º
Club (a) •º- wº
Canoe wº- *
Carry on one's back (to)
Clay sº sº
Come hither *
Call (to) a man of the
lowcr claſs, or a toua
Called (that is) zºº
Chief (a) * tº
Caterpillar (a) * = .
Cut (to) * * *
Cut (to) with ſciſſors
Child (a male) sº
Checks (the) sº
Columba
ſpecies of pigeon)
Chicken (a) •º
Cough (to) sº
Cloaths (our) dº
21CI1C3. (a
Depart (to) wº
Drive away (to) sº
Dreſs vićtuals (to) -
Day after to-morrow
Dreſs one's ſelf (to)
Die (to) Kº &=º
Drink (to) *sº iſ 3
Dog (a)
Dance (to) º
Deſcend (to) tº
Day (the) * gº
Dart (a)
Eldeſt ſon
Niou
Lavča
Yhoo
Modgia
Akao
Vaka
Fafa
Oum mea
Hač, ć mai, halé mí i
Fogui mai
Koi
Egui
Noufó
Taffa
Pipi
Tahiné
Koad
Touhou
Moa
Olea
Papa langui
Hael atou
Hålo, hâlo
Moho
Anoya
Poulou poulou
Maté
Inou
Kouli
Iva
Halonifa
Ao
Tau
Toagué de
22
A PP E N D IX.
Fldeſt daughter tºp
Eaſt wind º
Excrement * *
Evening
Earth.cn
(this) sº
veſſel to hold
Water sº tºº
Exchange (to) i lº
Equal sº sº
Eat (to)
Ear gº 4-º
Earth (the) gº * *
Eyes (the) gº tº
F.
Friend (a) * * * ſº
Friendſhip for (to have a)
Fingers sº mº
Female tº gº
Feaſt (a) *-e tº
Fire tº * >
Flute (a) fºs º
Fruit of the inocarpus
edulis sº sº
——— eugenia
Fiſh (a) º gº
Fine gº * -º
Forbidden * *L*.
Fan (a) †- •º
—-- made of a leaf of
the corypha ſº tº
—-- Anoincr kind of
—-- (to) sº sº
Fiſh-hook 4Eº tº-
Father sº gº
Feet (the) * º gº
G.
Co (to) walk º
Girl (a young) tº ºs
Great gº tº º
Great chief tºº.
Tofi, finé
Mantangui, mēēlaa
Miéokovi
Apou
Coilo
Fokatau
Tata, oupé
Hala
Telinga
Tongoutou
Mata
Offa
Cahou
Touau
Nafa
Mée
Afi
Fangou, fangou
Mahoa
Mafanga
Ika
Lelley, lelleyi
Tabou
Toito
Biou
Ayé
Hallo, hâlo
Ipa
Tamai
Afouivao, afévač
JHael
Mamadgie
Lai
Eguilai
Linen, as handkerchief,
Give (to) tºº
| Give me ſomething
Gain one's point (to)
Have not (I)
Hats (our) gº
Hatchet º
Hibiſcus roſa ſimenſis
Hibiſcus (another ſpe-
cies of) *
Huſband fº
Head tºº
Hair gº
How much 4 ºr
Here, there tº
He, or her & a
Hand gº
Hole (to make a)
Iron º
Iſland †
Knock down (to)
Knife (a) sº
Lie down (to)
}love (to) sº
Lizard -
Lean tºº
Little age
Leap (to) g-º
Look at that
Legs (the) as F.
Lips gººs
&c. gº
Mahi
- Mamaco, omi, ornéa,
magou
Tahou
H.
- Ongouikale
- Poulonga
- Toki
- Kaoutté
- Yabau
- Moco&
- Houlou
- Oulou
- Afeya
- Hini, hiné
- Hana
- Afenima
- Fauto
I. ſº
- Oukaméa
- Cau
K. "
- Lavé
- Hailé
- Fanao
- Mamana
- Fokai
- Cauno
- Tchi
- Hobau
- Tchiana
- Fouivač, vaēc
- Longoutou
- Hólohólo
A PP E N DIX.
23
- Tchioata, tohiautta
- Lohi
- Maumata, maimata
M.
- Moudou
- Maheina
Fouki
- Ogou
- Laoulahou
- Tongata
- Hala
- Nafa
- Kaka
- Hangui
- Nafi, nafi
- Kil
- Ini, Héné
- Itoui, Héoui
- Guya
- Hingoa
- Hoa
- Matangui toguelao
- Fonga fouloifoua
- Fagatolliou
- Fau
- Cotoné
- Eou
– Paolli
- Ikai, kai
- Hingoa
- Moua
- Toua
O.
Ornament of red feathers
worn on the head -
Orange dº. sº
Open º tº
Open that cocoa-nut -
Old gº * *
P.
Pig (a) wº *º
Parroquet (blue headed)
Preſent (I make you a)
Peel fruit (to) {ºs
Poſſeſs ſomething (to)
R.
Looking-glaſs
Lice sº
Let me ſee tº
Mouth gº
Moon (the) * =
Mark (a) on the chcek,
occaſioned by a blow
Me tº tº
Mother of pearl
Man (a) º
Miſs one's aim (to)
Mother sº
Mount (to) tº e
Muſic wº
Mat (common)
Mat (a) fine ſort, uſed
for cloathing
Now fºLºs
Needle, for ſewing
Neck (the) *…*
Navel * -->
No gº e.
North wind
North-caſt wind
North-weſt wind
Nail (a) -
Nutmeg (large) not aro-
matic sº
Noſe (the) wº
Night tº wº
Not * =
Name gº º
Natives of the lowcſt
claſs but onc
Natives of the loweſt
claſs $º
Ring (a) tº: º
Rudder tºº sº
Rough play ; : wº
Rub (to) a piece of wood
againſt a larger one,
to produce fire sº
Relations (near) *
Sit down sº gº
Sew together (to) ſº
Stick (a) gº iº
Sugar-cane sº sº
Scar on the belly, from
a wound by a javelin
Shell (a) 4 º' gº
Seize (to) sº º
Side (on the other) •º
Sleep (to) º *
Scratch (to) º sº
Shoulder (the) *s
Sneeze (to) * sº
Suff (a) made with the
ba, k of the mulberry-
t I C (>
Poulao
Moly
Tatanha
Oyou
Moudona
Boakka
Haingha
Adoupé
Folli
Amou
Mama
Fočouli
Léagui
Tollo
Anaoua
Nofo
Filou
Taha
To
Tā, obitouagui
Fighota
Faghi
Ahoué
M! OG
I wagou
Ouma
I ſangou
, TN
{ } \l at () (l
24
A P P E N D IX.
Fafaya kava
Kai fidgi
Toughané
Oubé
Laghi
Pipi
Aliki
Hebou
Lahihé, lahihébou
Tchiê, tchiébou
Houna
Fidau
Oulou kālala
Tabouni
Loulou
Alto
Behangué
Neiou fi
Matangui, tongue
Coéoulou
Pala
Faou
Tahé, tahi
Kao
Coquili
Faé
Alagnifannoua
Ikacava
Boulou boulou
Hi
Hé
Tainga
Ouno
Houa
Iléo, léo
Foui
Kafa
Coia
Iſſah
Paoulou
Codchi nolélé
Cabacao
Ina, maha
Mafanna
Vifiné
Hoanna
Matangui loulougha
Shave (to) gº wº
Sandal-wood t_º
Siſter's younger brother
Sing (to) or a ſong -
Sky * & º
Sciſſars (a pair of) -->
Side (on the other) –
Spoon (a) iº tº
Spoon (a great)
- (a ſmall)
Salute (to) by touching
with
the noſe-end,
that of the perſon ſa-
luted 4 º' sº
Star (a) wº «
Son (a) fººt tºº
Shut (to) sº *
Screcch-owl gº tº
Shed (a large) gº-
Shew me º *
Shark tº * tº
South wind wº
South-weſt wind
Sore (a) tº -º * *
Sieve (made of coarſe
ſtuff for ſtraining kava
Sea (the) * = * -º
Straw colour tº º
Skin sº sº
Siſter tº tº it
South-eaſt wind gº
Sweat (to) - " -
Sail (a) tºº A º
*
ſº
To (prep.)
This, that tºº tºr
T high sº sº.
Tortoiſe ſhell º
Throat (the) gº; 4 º'
Tongue (the) tº
Tail of a bird &
Tatooing &º gº
in large rings
round the waiſt wº
the thighs -
in circles on
the arms and ſhoul-
ders iº sº
To-day * … gº
Timber-work of a houſe
Teeth º tºº
That is $º sº
Throw (to) wºn tº
Toe (the great) gº
Tacca pinnatifida (fruit
of the plant of that
In 3. [Y] C sº wº
Tatooing, in the form
of large worms gº
Term of approbation
- impatience -
Thunder sº sº
Turtle-dove (red headed)
columba ſanguinolenta
Twiſt (to) sº gº
Thief (a) 4- te
Tell me your name -
U.
Uncover your head -
Whiſtle (to) a tº gº
What is that *
Moui moi
Malé, tatau
Alla péka
Itai
Anai
Fata
Nifo
Anga
Ilafou, lafou
Moudoua vahé
Maia
Koulou koulou
Tatao
Kaya
Eyoeia
W.
Wing º: $º
White tº e tº º
| Warm tºº º
Woman (a) gº * =
Wife (to have a) *
Weſt wind º gºs
Weep (to) º jº
Tangui
Mabou
Koaia
A PPE N DIX. ‘2.
Wood tº - Lahoubaba
Water tº - Owai NUMER IcA L TERMS,
Wicked * * - Kino One Ǻ - Taha
We - - Yta Two º - Oua
We two sº - Yta oua Three $º - Tolou
Walk sº - Momiho Four tº is - Fa
Wind (the) - Matangui Five º - Nima
Y. Six sº - Ono
Yawn (to) - - Mamao, mamaoya Seven tº - Fidou
Yellow dº - Mélo Eight wº - Valou
You ſº - Coč, hać, hē Nine iº - Hiva
Yeſterday wº - Ančafi Ten * - Ongofoulou
Yes * * - Io, hio
To count 20 they repeat the numbers from 1 to 9 incluſive; and when they come to 20 they
expreſs it by oua foulou (twice Io); to count 30, after having reckoned 20 in the manner juſt
mentioned, they begin again at I and count to 9: thus, tatra, oua, tolou, fanima, ono, fidou,
valou, hiva ; and to expreſs 3o they ſay, tolou ongofoulou (three times lo); to reckon 4o they
repeat 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 ; and to expreſs 4o they ſay fadngo foulou (four times Io.);
thus 5o, nima ongofoulou ; 60, ono ongofoulou ; 70, fidou ongofoulou ; 80, valou ongofoulou ;
90, hivo ongofoulou ; 1 oo, tehaou ; 200, ona tehaou ; 3oo, tolou tehaou ; 4oo, fa tehaou ;
5oo, nima tehaou ; 600, ono tehaou ; 7oo, fidou tehaou ; 8oo, valou tehaou ; 9co, hiva te-
haou ; 1 ooo, afey; Io, ooo, kilou afey : Loo, ooo, mano; I, ooo, ooo, panou ; Io, cop, ooo, laoualé ;
IOO, OOO, COO, laounoua ; 1, OCO, OOO, OOO, liagui ; I O,OCo, OOO, OOO, tolo; IOC, OOC, OOO, OOO, tafé 4:
I, ooo, ooo, ooo, ooo, lingha ; Io, OOO, ooo, ooo, ooo, nava loo, ooo, oto, ooo, ooo, kaimaau .
1,000,ooo, ooo, ooo, ooo, talomaguitaugha kaimaau ; an infinite number, oki.
VOCABULARY OF THE LANGUAGE OF THE NATIVES OF
NEW CALEDONIA.
A. B
Armpits & - Hanbeigha _º -ºº º
Arms (the) iº - Hingué º Begone sº - Boeno
Aſk him º - Hia Belongs (that) to me - Quiné
Ant (an) wº - Hinki Bread-fruit tree - Yen
Aſcend tº - Tamihiou Banana tree - Pouaignait
Are you well ? - Alaoué Beard (the) sº. - Poupouangué.
Awaking tº - Noda Back (the) sº - Donnha
d
26
A PP E N DI X.
Paoui
Pouckhouenguée
Manou
Mani mani
Tolam
Quedeni
Guiengué
Kniana
Houda
Tingué
Kiguiengué
Oubédou
Anan
Tanene poulou, mouen
Theabourna
Aliki
Niou
Nou
Yahick
Ho nemo
Mouep, maho
Ounep
Péigha
Neyné
Cold º - Guiaen
Cheeks the) - Poangué
Comb (a) gº - Gau, baliga
Club (a) º - Boulaibi
Chin (the) - - Pouangué
Canoe tº- - Wa, oacka
Chicken º - Hali
Cultivated land - Maniep
Cough (to) gº - Poupe
Come hither – Amé
D.
Dance (to) - Pilou
Death tº - Mackié
E.
Enough a- - Hongui
Eyelaſhes (the) - Poutchibanghiê
Elbow gº - Bouanguelen
Exchange (to) - Oubin
Ear (the) - - Guening
Eat (to) gº tº-
Eyelids tºy º
Houyou, abou
Banguinghé
In the laſt word the ſyllable guin is pronounced
in the throat, after the manner of the Arabs.
Earth (the) sº *
Ecar-holes * º
Eyes (the)
F.
Guioute
Ktiogueningué
Ti wangué
Bark of the hibiſcus li-
liaceus, from which
they extraćt a nutri-
tious juice by chew-
ing sº- {_ºr
Breech (the) º
Bird (a) * *
Birds & **
Baſket (a little) *
Bad (that is) *E *
Breaſt (the) jº
Breathe (to) -
Blood tº 3-º
Boſom (the) º
Belly (the) dº. sº
Blow (to) with one's
mouth º sº
Called (that is) gº
Cap (a) tº *
Chief (a) dº gº
Chief (a) above the
abouma = &º
Cocoa nuts * º
Cocoa tree º- - ºr
Cholic º sº
Cock º * *
Cord wº “º
Cord (a ſmall) which
they uſe in throwing
their javelins º:
Cord (a piece of) which
they wear round the
neck, from which is
ſuſpended a piece of
hard well poliſhed
ſerpentine ſtone £º
Child (a) gº Tº
| Fine (that is)
!
!
i
!
"|
|
|
|
->
Friend (a)
Forbidden (a thing)
Fingers (the)
Fan (a) a º º
Fire * †.
Abanga
King king king,
ſpoken quick
Tabou
Badonchigha
Bahoula
Afi, nap, hiepp
A PP ). N D I X. 27
Figs, which they cat I will not - Boudou
dreſſed tº - Ouyou I will carry you on my
Forehead (the) - Bouandaguan back & - Tabouncy's, motéma-
Fiſh-hook * - Pouaye néyo
Foot (the) - Bakatiengué, adegha Immediately - Guiot
Fly (a) ſº - Nan, ignan, about
Fall (to) sº - Telouch
J.
G. Javelin (a Nºta wº
Good (that is) - Kapareck y-
Give & º - Padeck, ourmi, name K.
Give me tº -º º Nº. hambaling Knees (the • Banguiligha
Glaſs beads - Baoui, pino
Great nº - Amboida, pagoula L.
Granates sº - Pagui
Lie down (to) - Guiahouna
Leaf a tree sº - Cata
H. Leg tº - Popiguiengué, bou-
* * dagnar
Hut (a) - Moi Let me ſee that - Melekia
Hair gº - Poubanghiê Little º - Anneba
Hungry (I am) * Aouab Lines of a black colour
Hatchet Bºe º Togºi made on the breaſt Poun
Hedge (a) tº * ºr Baubrigh Laugh (to) - Eck
Hand (the) - Adeliegha
Head (the) - Bangué
Horizontal beam, at the M.
height of about two M 5 r ...A
yards in their cot- Mouth (the) - Wangué
tages tº- - Paite % * (a) sº sº
Hole (to make a) - Kcigui Man Ҽ - Abanguia, tobiau
Moon (the) - Manoc, ndan
I | Magnificent (that is) - Boukaie boukai.
* ; Matt (a) - Kniep
Itching (an) - Hion | Mother *º - Moubreba
Iron º - Pitiou # Me (that is for) - Aoutou
Iſland (an) - Gniati Mountain (a) - Bandoué
I have none - Adigna Mat (a) ~e - Kam, abono
* | d 2
2s APPEND IX,
}
* N. S.
Nail (a) *- - Dobiou Spider (which the ſa-
Neck (the) * * - Nouheigha vages of New Ca- *
Noſe gº - Wanding lcolonia eat) - Nongui
Navel tº - Koanbougha Shrub (of the ſpecies
No sº - Noa lepto ſpermum - Poap
Nails (the) tºº - Pihingué Stop (to) sº - Guioute
Sit down (to) - Tamo
O. Sugar-cane - Kout, ounguep
Sing (to) {…} - Hoté
Ornament of mother of Scar of a wound from
pearl, with which a dart sº- - Do
which they adorn Sky (the) dº - Ndaoe
their heads - Tanden Shell, called bulla ovum Bout
Opening (the) which Shells - - Paliló
ferves as an entrance Spit (to) tºº - Kioutma
into their huts
Path (a) ſº
Potatoe Eº.
Parroquet º
Preſent (that is a)
Poſt (a) placed in the
middle of their cot-
- Ouenema
- Taca, ouandané
- Tani
- Pidip
- Tanhouate
tages i yº - Aguyotte
Pledge (a) wº - Malabou
Poultry - - Ho
Q.
Quartz sº - Nette
R.
Run away (to) - Kérémoi
Rain sº - Oda
Root of the dolichos
tuberoſus * - Yalé
Red * . - Miha
Salute (to) by touch-
ing with the end of
the noſe that of the
perſon ſaluted, as at
Tongataboo dºs
Shoulders (the) gº
Sneeze (to) £ºs
Stuff (a coarſe) reſem-
bling that made of
the bark of the mul-
berry tree gº
Strike (to) - -
Sleep (to) ſº
Sling (a) tº gº
Scratch (to) 4 tº
Sling (to) a ſtone
Sea (the) cºme gº
Swim (to) tº a
Stones prepared for
ſlinging gº gº
Bangoming
Bouheigha
Tibouaie
Wangui
Tamaet
Kingo anoulen
Ouendat
Mangaitte
Olé
Déné
Håt f }
Oudip
Adagucigha . . . . . ;
| Sole of the foot
| Sack of ſtones, for
ſlinging gº
Quenoulippe . , , y,
ºv, twº º'i
AP P E N DIX.
29
- Nianghat
- Donhcte
- Mouangha
T.
- Gniaouni
Heigna
Hi, hehine
*
Hengue paan
- Padoua
- Paou wangué
Hadipa
- Mai
dº
Tighing
- Kanohingué
Poné poné
- Nap
- Nbouait
- Highou
- Houadine
- Kaya
U.
- Tibic
W.
- Elo
- Kiantié
- Oudoa
- Taga
Undip
- Oé
- Tamomo, tama
Koupé wangué
Bouligha, négui
Yabaguenne
- Tatao
Tanan
- Ngot
Beta, andai
- Whaou
- Nima
- Oudou
Y.
- Obalam
Sun (the) 6-º
Spider's web
Sail (a) tº
Tree (a) tº
To day º
That gº
Thigh (the)
To-morrow
Teeth (the)
There is none
There is no more
Tongue (the)
Tic (to) tº
Thumb (the)
Take sº
Tails (falſe) which
they wear
Tatooing
Tomb *
Thunder 4 º'
Tie (to) a cord to any
thing sº
Thief (a) *=º
Untic (to)
Well (that is)
Wood tº
Warm (it is)
Way (that is the)
Wound from an arrow
Water gºs
Woman, or girl
Wife (my)
Went away (he)
Walk (to)
Weep (to)
What is that
Whiſtle (to)
Water (to make)
Wind (the)
Yawn (to)
NUMER IcA L TER Ms.
One *
Two wº
Three º
Four ſº
Five ſº
Six * -º
Scven tº
Eight tºº
Nine tº:
Ten sº
Eleven *
Twelve lº
Thirteen
Fourteen
Fifteen º
Sixteen tººk
Seventecn
Eighteen
| Nineteen
| Twenty
| Twenty-one
h Twenty-two
Twenty-three
Twenty-four
Twenty-five
Ouanait
Ouadou
Ouatguien
Ouat bait
Ouannaim
Ouanaimguik
Ouanaimdou
Ouanaimguèen
Ouanaimbait
Ouadoun hic
Baroupahinck
Barouk arou
Rarou kat gutin
Barou kat bait
Barou kat naim
Kaneimguick
Kaneim dou y
Kaneim guein
Kaneim bait
Kadoun hic
Kaningma
Karou
Kat guein
Kat bait
Kanneim
SO
A PP E N DIX.
Twenty-ſix «P
Twenty-ſeven sº
Twenty-eight -
Twenty-nine <-
Thirty º
Thirty-one * *
Thirty-two º
Thirty-three *
Kanneim guick
Kanneim dou
Kanncim guein
Kanneim bait
Kadoum lick
Barékalininck
Baré karou
Kat guien
| Thirty-four
Thirty-five
Thirty ſix
Thirty-ſeven
Thirty-eight
Thirty-nine
Forty º
Kat bait
Kanncim
Kanneim guick
Kanneim dou
Kanneim guein
Kanneim bait
Kadounhink ounguin
VOCABULARY OF THE LANGUAGE OF THE
Arms (the) gº
Arrow (an) º
Bow (a) -
Bananas *
Bracelets of tortoiſe-
ſhell -
Boſom (the)
Belly (the)
Boat (a large)
(a ſmall)
Cocoa-nut -
Cord *
Cotton ſtuff
Chin
Canoe º
Crab (a) º
NATIVES OF WAYGIOU.
A.
- Bramine
- Mariai
B.
sº Copamme couffe
– Imbieffe
- Miſſe
- Souſſe
- Sncouaran
- Cadoureſſe
- Houahy
C.
- Scrail
- Camoutou
– Sanſounre
- Bourou bourou
- Cambafene
- Coaffe
r
Drink (to)
Embrace (to)
Eat (to) º
Eye . &º
Ear (the)
Earth º
}
Fiſh hook
| Fiſhing-line
Father º
, Feet (the)
Fiſh
y
Dog (a) º
Forehead º
D.
- Quinemme
- Dofane
E.
- Cofroec
- Aenne, yacanne
- Mocammoro
- Quénany
- Soupe
F.
- Sarfedinne
- Farféré .
- Mama
- Eſſouebaem
- I canne, hienne
- Audary
A PP E N ID IX.
3 I
G.
Go (to) <> gº
Go away (to) dº
Go dº sº
Give me * * sº
H.
Hair (the) gº tº
Harpoon (a) tº
Hand (a) i º gºs
Hen (a) iſ ºr º
Head of an harp oon -
I.
Iron * wº
I am going &º
4. K.
Kniſe (a) * &º
Knees (the) *
Knot (to tie a) tº
L.
Łemon (a) * "'s.
Leg º tºº
Lobſter (a large) sº
M.
Mouth (the) *
Maſt (a) sº-a. tºº
Mother *E= *
Me *- *
Mat sº sº
N.
Needle tº gº
Neck (the) sº º
Combraenne
Orofuperre
Combran eſſo
Bouguemen, or bouq-
Iſ) (1ſl
Enombraem
Ambobéré
Brampinne
Maſanquienne
Enacandenne
Moncormme
Yaboreſſe
Moï
Ponierenne
Cocafeſſe
Innécrail
Anemine
Samoſſe
Souadonne
Padarenne
Naine
Aia
Yaerenne
Mari iſſou car mom
Sacécacran
Noſe gº wº
New-Guinea sº
Nails (the) tº.
Oar (an) wº gº.
Potatoes tº e § -º
Pack thread gº *
Pavilion (a) *
Pledge (a) sº :
Sugar-cane sº «iº
Straw hat of a conical
form wº º
Sleep (to) wº tº
Soft water tº º
Scoop (a) for a boat -
Stuff made of the bark
of trees * * wº
Stuffs (our) which
they demand in ex-
their
commodities º
change for
Switch (a) gº <!->
Sea (the) * * *
Ship (a) tº º sº
Speak (to) the Papou
language º
Sciurus palmarum *
T.
i Saffron (Indian) gº
Sago sº ºf
* Sail (a) * * =
That is - -
Thumb (the) jº
Nony
Mari, or maré
Brampione bey
/
Caboreſſe
Randzio
Ribbe
Barbaran
Decaenne
Camaenne
Saraou
Queneffe
Houaërenne
Canarenne
Maran
Decaille, canni
Aye
Maſainne
Capara
Papoua dobéréa
Ranbabé, couchou
Inacrenne
Quiou mi
Caouenne
Omi
Brapouéré
32 3. wº
APPENDIX.
Thigh (the) Jº Houeflope
Teeth (the) • Nacoerenne
Tin º - Saraca, ſaluca
Tongue (the) - Damaran
W.
Walk (to) - - Coreſſe
What is that - Aziaroſa
One
Two
Three
Four
Five
Six
Seven
Eight
Nine
Ten
Hundred
NUMERICAL TeRMs.
º - Sai
tº - Doui, ſoro
tº - Quioro
lºs - Fiaque
tº - Rima
iº - Onem
wº - Fique
º - Ouaran
* * - Siou
iº - Sampourou
* .
•º * f : * : iº
- * * * ~ **Caim
TABLES
APPENDIX. 33
T A B L E S
OF THE
ROUTE OF THE ESPERANCE,
DURING THE YEARS
1791, 1792, 1793, and 1794,
FROM THE TIME OF HER LEAVING EUROPE TILL, HER
ARRIVAL AT SURABAY As
N. B. Theſe tables ſhew the poſition of the veſſel at noon;
the variation of the needle diſtinguiſhed by ſr., when obſerved at
the horizon at ſun-riſe; by ſſ., when obſerved at the horizon at
ſun-ſet; and by az., when it is the reſult of an azimuth obſerva-
*ion; the degree of the thermometer according to Reaumur's ſcale
(it was a thermometer with mercury), the height of the barometer
at noon; the direction of the wind and the ſtate of the weather.
*XI CIN GI J. J. W. #9 .
£ 9% + 1 ..] |oo 96 6 1 || 1 64 oz o.o. 65 : SS 91 g +z
9% z+ £1 J or $* 31 – — |9t, of £ oo 6+ £ £ a
* <=mºmº- z 1 4 3 1 |8 || 95 & 1 |6%. 4 I + 6% 52 + |zz
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A PPEND IX,
3
5
TA BLES OF THE ROUTE OF THE
ESP E R A N C E.
DATE,
I 79 I.
September.
OŠtober.
November.
sº hºmºsºmºse ºmºmºmºsº,
2.
.3
I
º
*
I 3
I 4-
Variation of th
T
I U
1 7
I 8
I 9
2. O
2. I
2 3
2 +
C
Needle Weſt. Therm. Barometer. Wind and State of the Weather.
ſ
• ' " o p. 1. 4
— 1 5.0 28 2,9 E. Pretty briſk, cloudy
* 16 o 28 3,7 |E.S.E. Calm, overcaſt
——— ré o 28 3,9 |N. Variable, calm, ovel caſt
az. 2 I 1 o 57 1-6, 1 28 4, 2 W. S. W. Calm, overcaſt
——| 1 3, 2 28 3,6 N.W. Very little wind, ovel caſt
*=; ~. *_º ſº 1,o W. N. W. B. iſk, overcaſt, hall
az, 21 26 or 14,428 3,6 |N.N. E. A fine breeze, cloudy
16, 5 28 2, 9 N.E. Br: ſk, bail
az. 19 29 •o 16,o |28 2,9 |N.N. E. Briſk, overcaſt, hail
——— 17, 1 28 3,8 N. A fine breeze, fair
- Q {N. A fine breeze, clear, after-
*a* * 2 o', 2 |2 & 2, O *
wards cloudy.
| 19,0|28 3, o N.E. Rather briſk, cloudy
az. 16 38 oc 19, ; 28 2,8 N.E. A fine breeze, fall weaths
——— 19, 5 || 8 3,0 E.N.E. A freſh breeze, very fine
az. I 6 4.0 37 o 28 2 łºwº,
§ 4-9 37] I 9, o 2 & 2, 5 afterwards clear
az. 14. 47 34 19,828 3, o N.E. Little wind, fair
——— 2 1,0 |28 2,6 N.E., N. Light bi ceze, clear
——— 22, c 28 2, 5 N.E. H. N. Fine breeze, cloudy
——— 21,8 |28 2,9 |E. Variable, overcaſt, ſtormy
mºs ºs-ºmme sº- 22, 2 2 S 2 : 9 N.E.; N. Bliſk, cloudy
——— 22,8|28 2,4 |N.E. Briſk wind, cloudy
——— 22,8 |28 2, 3 |Calm, cloudy, ſtormy
——— 22, 5 |2S 2,8 Calm, ſtormy
— — — 22, 3 |28 2, 2 N. F. : E. Very little wind, ſtormy
az. 14 15 3.5 22, 5 |28 2,4 |E.N.E. A light breeze, ſtormy
E.S.E. Briſk, variable, cloudy,
——— 2 1,7|28 2,8 } rain •
===s** = | * 28 O E. N. E. Very little wind,
2 I, 9 |2 33 R cloudy, afterwards ſer, ne
——— 22,9|28 2,4 Calm, rather cloudy
——— 22,9 |28 1, 9 |E.S.E. Little wind, fair
——— 23,0 |28 2,0 S.E. Very little wind, fair
~—— 22, 5 |2 S 1, 9 S.E. Hail, calm, overcaſt, I ain
——— 22,9 |28 2, o S.S.E. Little wind, cloudy
——— 22, § 28 2, 5 S.S. E. Little Wind, rain
——— 22, o |* S 2, o Calm, rain
S. S.W. Little wind, fair ; af-
—- — 22, o 28 1, 9 } terwards rain
——— 22, o 28 2,0 S. S.W. Variable, briſk, very wet
az. 1 + 37 24, 21, 3 |2S 1,8 S.S.W. Guſts of wind, hail, rain
az. 14. 49 36|| 2 I, § 28 I, I gº Nearly calm, overcaſt,
az. 14, 26 3o 22, o 28 o, S. S. S. E. Moderate breeze, hail
2 1,6|28 1, 2 S.S. E. Fine breeze, h il
4 ) º
36 APPENDIX.
k+. –4. as “” ”
TABLEs of The RouTÉ of THE ESPERAN ce.
DATE, Latitude Latitude Lengitude | Longitude Variation of the
1791. North by North by Weſt by Weſt by Needle Weſt.
Obſervation. Computation: Obſervation. Computation.
O / f/ O f */ o z ºf Q & A/ O e º z
November. 25. 2 58 ool z 53 34 22 6 12| 20 54 oc ſſ. 14, 28 36
26] 2 5 37| 2 1 55] 23 19 36 21 33 4. ſ. 12 29 oo
27 1 zo 19| 1 17 57 24 19 20 22 14 ,7| ſſ, 11 42 oo
28 o 3o 55 o 36 35l 25 17 13| 2 a 38 49 fr. 11 18 oo
LATITU D E. L. ATITU D E.} i #
ſouth. ſouth. F :
29| o 39 12 or 26 12ſ 26 19 36|| 23 19 30 ſ. so 44, 53
30 I 32 4-9 1 34 19| 27 12 18; 24 6 ro do. 8 46 oo
December. 1 2 34 49| z 34 2 of 28 12 17 24 36 to do. 8 19 24
2| 3 52 2.5|| 3 49 3.5 29 4, 18 24 59 38 do. 8 58 47
3 5 Io 26 5 4. 26) 3 o 3 3 2 5 29 37 do. 7 49 18
4| 6 28 351 6 15 54 3o 42 36|| 25 56 14 do. 7 14: 56
5|| 7 34 3 I'l 7 24 º 3o 58 14, 26 2 6 do. 6 56 18
6|| 9 2 36|| 8 57 19| 31 19 26| 26 5 12 do. 5 24 48
7| Io 34, 26] 1 o 24, 25, 31 43 4o 26 24 36 do. 5 26 30
8| 11 43 1? I 1 38 56|| 31 38 17| 25 59 38 do. 3 49 19
9| 12 46 33 12 33 18, 31 & 14, 25 28 34 do. 4, 16 56
1 of 14 14 24; 14 4. 25, 30 29 38| 24, 38 39 do. 3 58 oo
11| 1s 42 46, 1541 26, 29 43 12| 23 43 39 do. 4 & 54
*A* 12| 16 56 13| 16 47 48| 29 6 38 23 6 32 do. 5 13 36
** 13| 18 6 zo] 17 56 28, 28 38 4o 22 39 42 do. 5 od oo
14| 19 9 36|| 19 6 34 28 19 34 22 26 to do. 5 17 26
I 5 20 32 19| 28 26 12| 22 26 18 do. 4. 46 oo
16| 22 16 27 22 3 59| 28 38 44; 22 27 12 do. 5 x 8 17
17| 23 48 14|| 23 27 13| 29 15 36; 22 54 no do. 4 1846
18| 2 5 20 32! 25 9 24, 29 27 18| 23 19 4 ſr. I 56 39
19| 26 35 17| 26 32 27, 29 29 4: 23 7 14 do. 2 54 oo
20| 27 28 * 27 18 59 as 18 38 22 8 3 do. 3 36 oo
2 J | 28 6 44; 25 43 Iol 1948, 2 ſ. 4 46 34
- • § !
22, 28 49 48 28 32 s: 24 6 36] 18 9. s
- * || { !
2 3 — 28 33 36] 2 a 44 34 16 49 3 tº-ºººº smºs
24, 27 49 58 1. 57 28, 22. t; 36] 16 23 6 —
25 —| 28 19 3 22 26 18| 16 44 7 tºmº
26} 29 33 54} : 29, 16 35 22 ; 18; 17 2.2 18
*...] 3o 44; 49| 3o 42 54 ** 38 17 1 6 18
28! 3.1 s6 24; 30 53 54 * 1 56 14, 16 26 19 ſſ. 5 36 30
29: 31 32 54|| 31 23 24 9 49 38|| 4 34 17| || 6, 14. 49
36} 31 49 33 31 38 44 17 45 17: 12 4° 14
3 tº 31 6 17 32 4 32 15 44 12| Io 58, 1 3| ſr. 5 54 lo

A PPEND IX.
37.
TABLES OF THE RouTE of THE ESPERANCE.

DATE, Variation of the
I79 I. Needle Weſt. Therm. || Barom. || Wind and State of the Weather,
O z a z Q gº 1.
November. 25 — 21,9 |28 1, 1 S.S.E. A moderate breeze, hazy
26 az. 12 16 56| 21, 5 |28 1,3 |Ditto
27] az. 11 33 19| 21,7 |28 1,3 S.E. A light breeze, hazy
28 az. 11 23 14, 21,2 |28 1,8 S.E. S. Moderate breeze, fair
29 – 21, 3 |28 2, 1 |Ditto
3ol az. 8 39 5 21,2 |28 1,8 S.E. Moderate breeze, hazy
S.E. Moderate breeze, hazy,
December. I 21,2 |28 2,3 } afterwards clear y
a ſº. 7 a. s. 1,3 is ... |} *** * breeze,
3 21, o 28 2,0 |Ditto
4|az. 7 36 18 21,4 |28 2, 1 , |E.S.E. Light breeze, hazy, fair
5| ſr. 6 39 49| 21,5 |18 2, 3 |E} S.E. Light breeze, hazy, fair
6|az. 5 24 55] 2 1,5 |28 2,7 |E} S.E. Fine breeze, hazy, fair
7| ſr. 5 18 17| 21,6 |28 2,7 |E. Moderate breeze, hazy, fair
8| az. 3 44 12| 21, o 18 2,8 # N. E. Model ate breeze,
e * + 3 y hazy, fair
8 26 28 * E.N.E. Moderate breeze, fair,
9|az. 3 58 39| 20,7 |2 & 2, 5 } a little rain
yoſ az. 3 48 ool zo. 5 |: 8 2,8 |N.E} E. Fine breeze, hazy, fair
, , ſr. 4 5 oc zo,3 - 3 3,5 |Ditto
12|az. 5 18 12| 20, 5 |28 3,6 #º E. Fine breeze,
13|az. 5 49 54 zo,3 |28 3,9 |E} N.E. Moderate, hazy, fair
14|az. 5 35 11 | 20, 2 |28 4, o |E. Light breeze, fair
º Ež S.E. Guſts of wind, ſhow-
15 20, 3 |28 452 } ers of hail
, 6|az. 5 18 36| 20,4 |:8 2,9 |E} S.E. Mod. breeze, hazy, fair
17|az. 4 6 54| 19, 5 |:8 5,2 |F3 S.E. Fine braze, hazy, fair
18|az. 2 36 44; 19.0 |28 5.0 |Ditto
19|az. -3 33 39| 19.4 |38 4-5 B. Moderate breeze, ovel caſt
From E. to N. Moderate br.
2 o' az. 4 18 53 19.4, 28 3, 5 } fair, rather hazy
f N. N. W. Moderate breeze,
, 2 I 19, O t 48 2, 3 } fair, rather hazy
i * 8 N.W.W.N.W. Light breeze,
22 az. 5 §2 36|| 19, 3 |* 2, 3 cloudy, rain
2 3 sº – 18, o 28, 3,8 W. S.S. E. Bliſk, cloudy
*4 —- || 17,6 ||28 5,3 S.S.E. E.S.E. Briſk gale, cloudy
2 5 ——— 18,6, 28 4.0 S.R. Fine breeze, cloudy, rain
26 à?, 5 49 32 I 7, O * 8 418 S.E. E. Moderate breeze, cloudy
2.7 ——– 16,7 |28 4, 5 |E. Moderate, cloudy, fair
28 az. 6 46 47| 17, 5 |*8 3.9 N. E.N. Little wind, fair
20|az. 6 56 or 17,8' 2.8 3,9 N} N.E. Moderate, fair
3c — — 17,8 |28, 3.9 |N. Moderate, fair
31|az. 6 16 is 17,6, 28. o.o
N.N.E. Moderate, fair
}
89
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APPEN, DiFX,
TABLES OF THE ROUTE OF THE ESPERAN CE.
DATF, Variation of the -
I 792. Ncedle Weſt. | Therm. Barometer | Wind and State of the Weather.
o / * / O p. !.
º N.N.E. N1 N.E. Moderate
J Ul 3 TV . ge I 8 . . . p
Jamuary 1|az. 6 6 s; 17,7|18 3,3 hazy, fair
2|az. 6 56 oo 17,7|28 3 2 Litto
3|az. 9 59 2 5 18,328 3,4 N. N.E.N. Breeze, hazy, fair
4|az. 13 34 59 18,0|28 4, 1 |N| N. E.N. Model als, fair
N. N. N. E. Little wind, clou-
5|az. I 3 4.6 18| I 7, 9 |28 4, o ; tly, fair }
| 6|az. I 5 18 49| 17,3|2S 3, 3 N. Moderate, fair
7|az. I 5 38 39| 18,0|28 1,7 N. N.W. Briſk, fair
- | N. N.W. Fine brecze, clear
. W. 8, Ll2S 2 IN.IN y y
} 8|az, 16 39 oo 18,4 x 5 } afterwards hazy º
! : º N. N. V.V. N' N. F. Little
* 2. S O N. Is * + . * *
9 az. 17 31 56 18, I 4-7 } wind, ſome I ain, fair
\ W N.W. Little wind, aftel wards
I C) az. I 9 19 3| 18, 4 |28 + 9 & calm, fair
; * W. N.W. Very little wind
an o 12 S , O - 2
11|az. 20 29 46. 19,928 4 fair, afterwards foggy
I 2 ————| 18,8|28 3, 6 W. Very little wind, fair, hazy
W. S. W. W. Moderate, hazy,
I 3| az. 2 I 59 4+ º 2S 3, 1 } aft, rvards clear
14|az. 22 14 32| 1 S, o 28 2, 3 W. Mod. hazy, afterwards clear
15| ſ!. 18 48] 18, 3 |28 I, 5 W.N. W. Moderate, hazy, fair
N. N. W. N. Fine bleeze
$. l 6, § 28 I * * : 3.
16|az. 24. 18 53 5 , 5 } cloudy, ſome rain
February. 17 az. 24. 1 2 36|| 5, 9 28 4, o S.S.E. Squally, cloudy, r, a
J Sl ————| J 5, 5 28 4, 2 S. S. S. W. Moderate breeze, h \?y
I 9 aZ. 2 3 I 6 1 c 18, 2 * S 2 x 7 S S. W.V. \V. S. VW" . N […] bi h. Zy
* 2 of az. 2 + 59 1 2 | 17 so 28 2, o |\V. N. N.V.V. B. ſk, cloudy
2 I ————| 19, o 28 4, O N \V. Fine bi ecze, cloudy
'. WV. S. \\ , N. N \\ . ] is ht br.
• 2. * I 2.8 w; SS ' " -
22 az. 26 39 S 9 so I , 9 } tole ably (air
23| ſl. 2 5 4.8 co 18,0|27 8, 5 W. N. W.W. Bliſk, toler:bly fine
2 + ————| 17, 1 |> S 6 9 |\V. S. W. A ſin it f : alc, fur, hail
* º F.J. N. E. Snºurt gale, a full -
ºl. Z. & ~, IS 2. 2 - 7 <!. g Sº, y
25 az. 27 16 oc , 5 || 8 5 y } was dis light breeze, c. v.
6 ————| 19,9 |28 oro E N E. N.E. Smart sale, ſi <
2; az. 28 17 59| 1999 |28 2, 9 N.W. J. gºt by cºs, fºr
S.W., little wind, aftel walls
* • 2. IS 3 & W º 3. $.
2 S. āz s Q 36 ;4 || 8 2,7 & can, taur
29 az. 28 18 36|| 19, 5 || 7 loo N.E. Niod.br. fair, afterw.cloudy
y \V. W. N. W. B. tº, ſtol my ,
March. l, a 7. * 58 Ov I 5, S 27 I I, § & the n fair &
2|az, 2.8' 24 36|| 18,6 |38 1,2 |N. W. Fine br. fair, rather cloudy
'40) APPENDIX,
TABLES OF THE ROUTE OF THE ESPERANCE,
D At E. Latitude Latitude Longitude Longitude Variation of the
I 792, South by South by Eaſt by Eaſt by Needle Weſt,
Obſervation. Computation. Obſervation. Computation.
{ Q & F / 0 ° 6/ O & wº 0 7 ºr © f * *
March. 3| 34 32 ool 34 32 14 38 14, 18] 38 16 54 ſt. 30 36 52
g 4 34 35 37 34 38 44 4o 18 12 tº-º-º-º: e
S 34 40 54 42 22 12+ 42 & 3 *ºº.
6] 34 41 52' 34 42 34: 43 36 44 43 34 2 gººmººumºr.
7 — 34 41 36, 44 3 35' 44 8 13 ſ. 27 34 19
8| 35 23 18, 35 29 14. 44 54 18; 44 58 4 -——
9| 34. 54. I 35 6 2 – 4.6 22, 2 ***º
1o 35 42 8, 35 54 .34; 47 4 34 46 58 3| --
1 *| 36 22 s! 36 8 14. 49 2s 32 49 14, 13 ſ. 26.49 so
1 zl 36 44, 26, 26 44 52, 5* 54 38 sº 44, 36 frz6 30 oo
13| 36 4; 34, 36 48 34 53 I 3 19 52 26 12 ſ. 26 34 38
14 37 16 49' 57 11 39, 55 33 46 53 34 6| ſt- 26 24 oo
is 36 13 44, 36 18 4, 54 5 42. 54 9 34 ſ. 26 13 is
16| 36 s; 52| 36 49 34 sq. 39 24 34 38 34 iſ 24 49 39
17 37 46 14, 55 53 52 #6 8 52 (ſ. 24 26 oo
18| 37 57 5; 38 4 36 57 49 12 -
19| 38 2 471 38 6 27, 59 12 34 58 45 10 ſ. 24 59 oo
zo 38 12 38 38 9 4, 6o 18 zo. 6o 4, 8 ſr. 25 32 19
z1| 38 30 37, 38 24 37' 6' 54 36|| 6 || 33 16 ſt- 23 1948
22) 38 26 42. 38 28 14 64 16 1. 64 18 ool ſt. 24. 46 38
23| 38 9 45| 38 22 45 66 34 zol ſt. 23 48 15
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29, 38 4-5 34 39 4. I? 77 51 4 ſ. 17 43 39
3ol 39 2 3 34 39 30 58 8o 4 32| 79 48 2 ---
31|| 39 54 49 4o 7 55 82 23 36 82. 14. 49 ---
April. 1 40 42 26 41 x 26, 84 59 14 85 34ol {ſ. 16 4 53
2] 4o 56 18, 41 9 18, 88 14 19 87 48 lo *
3| 40 4-5 I of 40 34 ool 9o 26 18, 9o 22 14 tºss-smºps
4. 41 3 36|| 41 19 26) 92. 59 4 93 5 4 -
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6| 42 5 18; 4.2 18 14 10o 25 19| 1 oo 18 ſſ. 19 8 Io
y 42 17 10) - 104 7 3 ºmºmº
3| 42 15 16, 42 32 16, 196 35 36] 106 49 39 ſſ, 13 14 13

*
. A P P E N Dº X. :81
TABLES OF THE ROUTE OF THE ESPERAN CE.

HT t i
DATE, , |Variation' of the t s
1792. Needle Weſt, Therm. Barometer | Wind and State of the Weather.
O /* a f O |) l.
March. 3|az. 3o 48 9| 18,5|28 3,o |N. Pretty briſk, fair
l N E. #N. Bi ik, afterwards
4- 18,b |28 3,3 } little wind, very cloudy
5 ——— 17, 1 |28 2,4 |N.E; N. Mod. br. cloudy, rain
- N. W. Moderate, alterwards
6 az. 28 56 2.c 18,7 28 3, o } calm, fair, rather cloudy
7|az. 27 14: 34 17,o 28 4, o |9. S. E. S. Light breeze, cloudy
3 ——— 18, o 28 3,9 |E.S.E. N. N. E. Light bl. cloudy
9 ————- 15, o 28 5,o |From N.W. os. S. W. Br.cloudy
r t + * W. E. S. E. E.N., E. Fine breeze,
I O ** = I 6,o 28 6,o -
º º cloudy, a little rain
* 11|az. 26 54 19 17,o |28 3 o N.E. H. E. N. N. E. Fine br.cloudy
I 2 ————l 17,o |28 2, 9 N.N. F. Fine breeze, cloudy
* . . ." º 6,o 2 K. N. N. E. Little wind, then
\ 13|az. 26.45 39|| 1 * 8 5 'o } calm, clºudy, afterwards fine
º 6 y E.S.E. E.N. E. Very light
14 az 26 39 oc| 16, o |28 5, & breeze, dark
I 5 ————ſ 15, o 28 6,3 E. S. E. S.S.E. Mod. br. dark
16 az. 24. 52 11 14,8 || 8 7,o |S E. E. Moderate breeze, dark
17|az. 2 4 37 4, 5.9 |28 5,9 |E N E Moderate breeze, laik
18|az. 2 5 4 1 ool 6,o 8 5,o N. F. N: N. W. Mod. br. dalk
19|az. 24 26 c 1 6,o 28 6,o [W.N. W. N. W. L ght br. fair
26 az. 2 5 36 24, 16 oz8 6.5 N, N E N E. Very is ht br. fair
E.N. E. N.N. E. Moderate
21 az. 25 36 oo! I 5 o 28 5, 5 } very fine Oùtſ d [ty
2.2 ———— I 5,o 28 3,8 |N. N.E. N. N.W Briſk wind, fair
2. ————| 13,9|28 3,6 ||N. W. S. Briſk, fair, then cloudy
24- ———| 12 o 28 5, 6 |S. S.S. E. Bliſk, cloudy
2. ——— I 3-3 |28 6,o S. S. S. W. Light breeze, fair
26 az. 19 3 2 54|| 14, o |28 5,o W. S. Moderate breeze, fair
2. ————| 13, 8 || 8 5 8 S. W. S. E. Light breeze, fair
23 ſº. 18 4-4 56] 1 5 o 28 5,o N. N.W. Briſk, hazy
29 ————| 5, o |28 11, , |N.N. W. B. ſk, a fine br. hazy
3o --———| 13 O || 7 1 o, o }". Suually, cloudy, a little
——h J O C N.W. S. W. Hail, briſk wind,
31 tºº ** 27 1 J, 9 } hazy, hail
- -, W. S. VV. N. N.W. Strong br.
April. I az. I 3 2.]. I O I O, C 28 7 o } hazy, hail g Ut
N. N.W. S.S.W. Strong br.
2. ————| Io, o 27 9,0 } hazy, much hall
- S.S.W. Strong br. hazy, h
3|az. 17 44. 48 8, 5 |28 2, 5 } hall rong ol 7y, muc
4. ————| 12, 1 |28 2, 3 | \, W. N. W. Fine br. hazy, fair
5|az. 17 59 16| 2, 5 || 8 3.0 [W.N.W. Fine bleere, hazy, fair
* : 8 y y wºw, N.W. Strong br.
6 ––– 13,9]'s 3, cloudy, fair
8 N. W. Briſk. W.S.V.V. M ſo-
7 * I I C) 1,7 } d, rate, cloudy, hazy, rain
8 fr. 14 58 52| Io,8}.8 3,0 V.S.W. W. A fine br. hazy
* "X IGIN. GIGIGIV 'Gº
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& M. 4 Q a & / O A y • O * A * O .. w O
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*SIO NWHSH d SGI &IHJL & O & J.'ſ] Ołł & H.J., &O SHT H.W.J.,

.A. PPE N DIX. 83
TABLES OF THE ROUTE OF THE ESPERAN CE.

—a
|
Date, Variation of th
I 792. | Needle Weſt. Thirm. ſ Barom. Wind and State of the Weather.
O f * * O J.
April. 9 ——— | 1 1,8 |.8 2,0 |N.W. A fine breeze, hazy, fair
8
I O || ———— I I, § {27. 1,6 N.W. B. iſk g. cloudy, a little rain
I I ———| o.7 |28 1,0 N. W. W. Moderate br. cloudy
8 S. W. S. N. loder tte breeze,
———l 8 l
I 2. - , 5 o, 5 Q ſaually, cloudy, ſleet
, I 3 ——| 9,0 |:8 3, o S.E. S. S. E. Verv ſq. cl. fleet
14-1. ———| 9,2 |27 7, 5 |S.E. W. S. W. Briſk, fair, ſleet
1 5 az. 3 $4. 44 8, 5 |27 10 o S. W. Smart g. ſqually, hazy, ſic.t
16 ——— I o, o 28 3, 1 |w.S. W. Fine br.f Ir, rather hazy
17 — — — — | 12, o 28 3,0 |W.S.W. Smart gale, cloudy, ſleet
i W.S. W. W. Fine bleeze,
13 az. 2 34 8. I2, 5 (28 4,7 } cloudy, ſome rain
W. F. ne pr. cloudy, a little
rain at night
20|, az. 5 51 1 0 1 1, 5 |28 1,7 W. Fine br. cloudy, much rain
** 19 ——— I 2, o 18 4-, 5 }
May, 14 az. 7 33 42 S.W. Squally, rain, ſleet
I 6 -**-*= - 27 C o N. Moderate breez, fair
I & ————| 8, 5 |27 9,3. N. Mod. breeze, h;7 y
2.5 —| 8 o || 8 2, 9 |\\'. Litſie win (, ; air
2. | Io, o |28 3, o Calm, cloudy, ſome rain
27} az. 8 26 37| Io, 2 |28 2,7 |Almoſt a dead cann, fair
Dalm, a briſk N. wind, ſerene
28 — 9, O 27 I I, O Calm, a 3 itſ C11t 3
afterwards hazy
29| az. 7 48 to 9,0 || 7 Io, 3 N.W. S. W. Briſk, cl. ſome rain
3C || tº-ºs-amº- ºr- , 2 |27 7, 5 S.W. S.S.W. Smart g. cl. fleet
S.S. E. Smart gale, very un-
3 I 2, O |27 I I, 5 $ S § 1 it, )
& favourable weath r
June, H —— 2,5 || 8 o 5 S. S.S.E. Nºod, br. cl. then clear
2 ——l 13, 9 || 3 3, o |3. Wºod, br. fair
3| 17, 9 56 5.9 1 + 3 + 3 + .9 º br. º ſ
N. N. V.V. itſ le \\ 1 \\ }, a tet-
Ž 1.1, 3 2
4. J%. I I 38 3 t; 28 3, 5 waids tºol. br. full ha: y
N.N. W. N.N 1.. Guſts of
wind, cl, rain in the night
N. W. Very variabic, little
Ş
- Q
S ———| $50 |28 S, 3 }
6 —r- I+, O 27 I I, O wind, ſtorinv, clºſely, in
7 ––| so |27 o o S. W. S. A lod, bl. bazy, ſleet
8. a7 , t t +3 oo 1 50 |28 or 5 S. W. Fine br. bºyy
, 9 & . . . ; ; ; ; , 5, 5 || 3 2 5 S. W. Moºl, bº. hazy
16| [r. 13 § 1 - 19.9 |28 3,o S.W. iight or, thº calm, cloudy
I \ ——| 16 4 || 8 2.3 W .N.Y.V. N. N \\ . Light lºr, fair
| 12 az. 1 i 8 43 I Lo |28 2,9 N.W.W. N.V., N, iod. h. . . at
; , ; 2. 38 s 18.9 s 39 Wi W.S. W. Light bi , hazy
% W.S. W. W.N. W. J., ght br.
* I q. ————l 8, o |28 3.4 } after was ds calm, cloudy
- 1 5 A1 - 1 O 45 I 9 18, o |28 3,5 S. \V. Very little wind, cloudy
itſ az. 10 46 3| 7, 9 |38 3,6 W. S.W. Light by, ſcr-ne
2
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**
"ºf ONWYHºſdi Sºi ºf HJL HO 3 J. ſloº & H.J. iO SSIT (W.J.

A P P E N D IX.
85
TABLES OF THE ROUTE OF THE ESPER ANC E.

|
DATE, Variation of the ! }
I792. Needle Eaſt. Therm | Barometer. Wind and State of the Weather,
& | O f * * ° p. 1.
June. 17, fr. 11 59 zl 18,0|28 2,6 S.W. Very little wind, dark
18 ſr. I 1 4 37] 18, of 18 2,0 S.W. Light breeze, very fine
ſº I 7,o 128 1 S.S. W. W.S.V. Light br.
19| Ir, 10 51 39| 7,012 29 fair, then hazy.
2. O tº- 16,9|28 1,9 }* iº, Light br. briſk,
2. I ſr. ro 8 OO 7,o 1.8 3, 3 S.S W. S. S. E. Mod.br.hazy, fair
2. 2. —— 17,7|28 3, 3 |S. E. Light breeze, hazy
2 3 ———— 18, o |28 1, o |E. N.E. N. Light br. hazy, fair
24 ſr. Io 8 ool 18,0|28 2,0 |From N.W. to S.W. Mod.br.fair
25 az. Io 4- 39 18, o 28 3, o S.W. S. S. W. Mod. br. fair
26 ſº. 9 58 38|| 18, o|18 2, 3 |S.W. Mod. br. light br. hazy
27 ————| 17,9|28 3, 5 S. S. W. Light breeze, hazy
28 ———l 17,o |28 4,o S.S.E. Fine breeze, fleet
29 ———| 18, o 28 40 S.E. E.S.E. Fine br. briſk, hazy
3O —| 18, 3 |28 4,9 |E.S.E. Mod. br. hazy, fleet, rain
July. I ————| 19,o |28 2,9 |E.S.E. E. Mod. br. cl. rain
2, ————l 20, o 28 2, 5 E. Mod. br. cloudy
3 ————l 2 I solz.8 °30 º N.E. Light br. cloudy
E.N.E. N. E. Light br. cl.
4 ſº. 9 6 ool 22, olz8 °o } afterwards is:
N.E. S.S.E. S E. Li ht br.
5 ſr. 9 4 ool zo,4|28 *** } cloudy, then ſerene 8.
6 ————| 20,0|18 || | | |S.E. S.S. E. Mod. br. hazy
7 – 20, o 28 1,6 S.E. S.S. E. Mod. br. hazy, rain
2. O 3 I,8 S.S.E. Mod. br. rain, after-
3 tº-ºs = <=-ºs- x 5 i2 J) wards ſerene
9|az. 3 - 3 15 21,9 |28 4 S.S.E. Mod. br. Cloudy, hagy
Y O ————| 21, o |28 - 29 S.S.E. Mod. br. cloudy, hazy
S.E. Briſk gale, cloudy, with
R I —l 21,6 lz8 °25 } ſhowers of ran Y,
S.E. E.S.E. Bliſk gale, cl.
I 2 ——l 22, o |28 129 } with ſhowers of ..
I 3 21, o || 8 || 4 |S.E. E.S E. Fair breeze, cloudy
I 4. 22,0|28 so S.E. E.S.E. Fine br. rather cl.
15|az. 4 48 7 22,9|28 9 E.S.E. S.S. E. Fine br. fair
16 22, O |28 Iyo # E. S. Fine br. 1ain, after-
# ; 22 O I & wards fair
|*| — “F*** {se. Fift, aly
! ! .
| {−– 21 el: 8 ,4 S.S.E. Mod. br. violent rain
2. —r- ** y
t : —— 21,9 |28 1, 3 S.S.E. Mod. br. cloudy, fleet
26. ——l 2 x so 18 or 9 ### Fine br; cloudy,
! S.E. Fine breeze, ſtormy, af.
27 ———h. 21,2 |28 o,6 } terwards fau, ...'
2.8 5 24 49; 22, o 28 or 4 (S.E. Mod. breeze, fair
}
86
APPEND I X.
TABLES OF THE ROUTE OF THE ESPERAN C E.

DATE, Latitude Latitude || Longitude Longitude Variation of the
I792. South by South by Eaſt by | Eaſt by Needle Eaſt.
Obſervation. Computation Obſervation. Computation.
O / / / o , , O / / / • a o º f f
July. 29, 2 19 59] 2 18 39| 145 44 46|| 145 49 46 ft 6 6 29
3ol. 1 4.5 oc 2 6 24 145 28 45 14-5 18 46 do. 6 4 oo
31 1 56 ool 2 9 12| I44 59 46. 144 52. 46 do. 5 59 oo
Auguſt. I 2 5 24- 2 Ho 35 143 42 36] 144 13 36 * sº
* 2| I 32 oc 1 35 38 142 34. Io 142 23 18 do. 5 12 14
3] I 37 1 7 1 49 47 142 # 4 14t 49 4
4, 1 36 53| 1 49 58. 14o 58 44, 141 22 12 ſr. 4 8 36
5] 1 18 ool 1 13 46; 139 25 56] 139 24 56 ſ. 3 1746
6 o 45 39 a 53 39| 137 46 3ol. 137 59 26 do. 4 19 30
7| o 17 24 o 26 34 136 38 12 136 36 8 do. 4 6 18
8 o 3 19 7 47 135 59 43} 135 55 46 do. 4 5 4
North. |- - - --
9 o 9 ool o 1 ool 135 16 54. 133 1944 do. 2 54 16
North. -
10 o 17 52 o 10 52 134 33 12 134 36 8 do. 2 #8 26
1 I o 26 39 o 18 48] -- 134. 9 38 mººmmºmº
| South. i
3 2. o 1 o 37 o 1 32] I 33 32 ool I 33 36 38 ---
South. - -
2 3 O 5 3| o 17 38 133 32 26] 1 33 22 54 do. 3 4 36
14 o 6 sal c 17 34 133 12 46|| 1 32 39 56 do. 2 6 16
North. t h
15 o 7 29, o, . 6 23, 132 19 12| 132 18 13 do. 2 24, 17
| North. ! 2.2.
16; o 14 12 o 2 14| 13.1 $7 36] I 32 2. do. 2 28 46
| South. }
17| o 9 4! o 8 38 13:45 º 131 48 38 do. 2 6 44
18 } o 18 14 —— 131 18 17 do. 1 43 36
South. t -
19| o 17. 3ol. o 19 29] I 3o 54. slºgo 55 2.
20 o 13 4% o 19 14 +3° 44%. 139 24 48 do. 1 36 24,
2 I Q 12, 37 o 15 37| 130 6 19| 130 1 2 19 do. 1 14 6
az] o 28 44 o 33 59b 129 35 il 129 39. 36 do. o 49 4
23| o 46 54 o 55 19 128 56 33| 129 2 34 do. o 43 54
!
APPENDIX.
%
|
7
‘TA R LES OF THE ROUTE OF THE ESJ ſº R A, ºf C. E.


*-*
DATE, Variation of th
I 792. Necule Eaſt. Therm. Barometer. Wind and State of the Weather.
Q / / O P. }.
July. 29 az. 6 4.3 4ſ 22, 3 |28 o, 6 S.E. Mod. br. fair
28 8 5 S.S E. S.E. Mod. br. clºudy,
3C ————|| 2 I 2 |2 & O 3 & ſhowers of rain a intervals
31| ſr. 6 24, 36 22,4|28 1,3 |S.E. Mod. br. cl idy
~ 8 S. E. S.S. E. Light br. bliſk,
* uguſt. I — 22, 2 |2 S I 2 } hazy
2|az. 4 36 49| 22, 5 |38 1,3 S.E. S.S.E. Mod, br. hazy
3 —— 22,6 |28 1,3 (D1 to
| W. S.W. S. F. Guſts of vind,
4. az. 3 4.9 8| 22, 5 28 1,4 } rain, afterwards very fair
5 ſr. 4 3 44 22 5 23 1,2 E. S. E. Mod. burh izy, fair
F. S. E. E. N.E. Mod. breeze,
6| ſr. 3 22 52 - | } ſight by lazy, fair
S.S.E. S. E. Very ſight br.
7 ſr. 3 9 58] - –––|} vely fine
3 ſº. 3 8 45] 2 3,3|28 1,4 |S.E. E. Very light br. very fair
9| ſr. 2 36 6 — — ——S.E. E. Very light br. very fair
- E.S.E. F. N.E., Very light br.
to ſº. 2 58 36 — H- } very fair y 313,
an 3 S. S. E. Mod. br. aſterwards
}. I ——— 23, 3 |*8 I, 2 } calm, very fine
23,2 |28 1,6 }*: N.W. W. Guſts of
I 2 ºmºsº ºn- 3, 2 + y wind, fair
W. N.W., WV. WY. S. W.V. Guſts
13|az. 2 14. 4. 24, 18 1, 1 } of wind, fair, fleet
sal az. 2 36 54 23,3|** *, 7 S. W. S. S. W. S. S. E. Guſts of
wind, cloudy
15|az. 2 36 19 - S.S.E. Valiable, little wind, cl.
S.S.E. E. Very little wind,
16 ſr. 2 16 48] - } cloudy, afterwards ſelene
| S.E. N.N. E. Light br. fair,
17|az. 2 16 38 dºms Q afterwards 1 &n
S.E. N. E. Variable, light bº
13 ——l 23,6}^* + 4 } cloudy, rain C.
E.N. E. W.S.V. Light tº
r 9 * * * — ` Q calm, c', afterwards elez:
r 2 & 1 S. E.N.E. V' cry little wind, clºt
as az. 18 34 º' 7 º’.“...i.
z iſ ſi. I 58 2. - 1" ny, then fair, ve: ; vari ible
J.E. S.W. S.E. little wi us
a z} ſº. I 19 1 —- ſº T \ , briſk, fair * *
* }} Wº. 5 48 54; 2232 28 I 4. S. S.S.F. M. di b; , #3 in
| |
88 A PPE N DIX.
TABLES OE THE ROUTE OF THE ESPERAN CE.
DA ºr E. Latitude Latitude Longitude Longitude Variation of the
I 792. South by South by Eaſt by Eaſt by Needlc Eaſt.
Obſervation. Computation. Obſervation. Computation.
Q * A f d a Aff O 4. * * O y & f O £ & #
Auguſt. 24 o 53 49 o 56 Io. 128 24, 19| 128 28 19
25] 1 19 36|| 1 29 33 127 45 18| 127 4: 12 ſſ. o 49 53
26 1 4-3 16 1 39 46 127 26 34 127 28 19| do. o 28 32
Weſt.
27 1 59 56|| 2 4, 16, 127 2. 38; 1.27 13 38 do o 26 8.
* Eaſt.
28 2 22 34] 2 28 38 127 12 6 127 6 3| do, o 4 13
29 2 28 38 z 39 19 127 13 52| 27 1 49 do. o 54 58
3o 2 39 48 2 4, 38 127 4 3 2 126 56 54 do. 1 9 36
31|| 2 4o 81 2 46 11 126 49 46 126 42 46 do. . 48 38
September. 1 2 46 37] 2 52 47 126 28 54 26 24 52 do. 1 34 19
2| 2 52 34] 2 45 38| 126 4' 48] 126 8 44 do. 1 & 54
3| 3 14 6| 3 io 34 125 35 8 26 48 3 | do. I 19 8
4|| 3 35 46|| 3 28 6|| 1 2 5 49 3| 1.25 4o 24 *-* ==ºmmº
5 3 4.8 36 3 55 36 12s 52 13 12s 2 25 do. o 47 29
6|| 3 4o 39 126 9 54.
At Amboyna.
Oćtober. I + 3 48 46 3 48' 3| 1 2 5 57 4, 125 56 8
Weſt.
x 5' 4 29 oo. 4 33 48 125 14 8| 125 36 2 do. 9 37 8
Eaſt.
16] 5 24 54 5 26 19| 124 36 8, 124 38 49| do o 16 oo
17| 6 12 13ſ 6 26 23: 123 52 6, 124 3 2 do. o 4 19
* Weſt.
13| 7 2 24; 7 4 44 123 9 34 123 35 9| do o 34 36
Eaſt.
7 as 36! 7 18 24 123 3 46 123 2 46 do. 19 19 34
x 9 S º 4. I2 Weſt.
2c. 8 15 27, 8 9 29' 123 29 tº 123 23 1 cl do. o 58 54
2, 8 44, 33 8 29 36|| 122 56 6 123 23 36 do, o 2° 3
22 || 9 || 3 |z| 8 56 44 122 34 8: 122 44. 7] do o 28 56
23 9 I 7 49 9 8, 29 I 22, 17 I 2, 12.2 19 19. do. 1 33 12.
24, 9 18 48| 9 16 19 121 39 34 122 4 3 ſſ. I 48 54
25 9 44 48 9 28 42 12o 58 46 121 36 47 ſr. , 14 in
|
as 10 6 ool 9 55 37| 12p 23 1: 120 46 12 do. 17 *%
27] Io 23 54 Io 14; oo 119 52 14 120 15 18 do. o 56 34
24! 10 42 o' 10 42 47| | 18-49 18, 119 19 34 do. 9 54 36
29, 10 5o 48] 10 58 38|| 1 18 7 23] 1 18 34 23, ſº 1 14 4-8
3%| 11 3 8, 11 3 ool 117 19 54. 117 48 231 ſt. * * *

A PPEND I K
40
TABLES OF THE ROUTE OF THE ESPERANCE.

D a 'ſ E. Variation of the
I 792. Needle Eaſt. Therm |Barometer. Wind and State of the Weather,
--!> F º:
O A # / O p. l.
Auguſt. 24- —— 21,6|28 1,8 |S.S.E. Mod, br. calm, briſk, fair
2 : , ; 128 O S.S.E. S. Mod. breeze, little
25 ——— 21, 2 & 2, wind, fair gº
26 ſr. 1 28 8| 21,7|28 I,7 łºńs. Light br. fair, ſome
Weſt.
27 ſº. o 4o 24 — S.W. Variable, light br. fair
Eaſt.
28 ſt'. o 22 54 E. N. S.E. Variab. light br. fair
29 ſº. 1 28 34 22,6|28 1,2 |E. N. Var. very little wind, fair
& * , e, E.N.E. S.E. S.S.W. Very
3o ſº. o 56 2.8 22,2|28 2,2 } little wind, fair
łºś. S.S.E. Light breeze,
3 I -º- afterwards calm, dark
September. I ſr. 1 2 3 54 - S.E. N.E. N. Briſk, light br. fair
2 fr. 1 & 36 22,628 1,8 |S.S.E. W.N.W. Light br. fair
3 ——l 22, o]28 1,5 (S.S.W. E. Light breeze, fair
4| ———l 22, olz8 1,7 |S.S.W. S.E.E. Little wind, fair
5 22,028 2, 1 S.S.E. E.S.E. Mod. br. hazy
Weſt.
6|az. 1 14, 26 22,028 2,2 |E. N.E. S.S.E. Light br. hazy
Oćtober. I 4- E.S.E. Light br. fair
I 5 -|E.S.E. S.S.E. Light br. cloudy
16 22,428 1,5 |E.S.E. S.S.E. Mod. br. cloudy
Eaſt.
17 ſt. o 18 44 E.S.E. S.E. Mod. br. cloudy
Weſt. ſ
E.S.E. S. S.W. Mod. br.
13] ſº. o 38 36|| 23, 1 28 2, 1 light br. cloudy
Eaſt.
19) az. _o 24 59 Calm, E.N.E. light br. cloudy
Weſt.
zol az. o 32 56 E.S.E. E. E.N.E. Light br. cl.
2 : ſr, o 26 54 22,3|28 126 S.E. N.W. Light br. very fine
2, ſr. o 33 56| 22, 1 |28 I, I S.S.E. N. N.W. Light br. fog
* S.S.E. N.N.W. Very little
º fr. o 24, 22 22,2 |28 1,6. wind, foggy
24 az. 1 26 12! 22,6|28 1,6; Ditto
From S.W. to N.W. Very
25 az. I 9 II } little wind, foggy
* 8 |g w.s.w.. S.S.w. very little
26 ſº, o 29 sº –– } wind, foggy
27 ; | 23, 5 |28 2,7 |S.S E. Very little wind, foggy
23|az. o 52 36|| 24,218 2,9 |S.E. Very light by foggy
29 — 23,4|28 2, 1 (S. E. S. S.E. Light br. ſerene
30 ſr. I 56 4-4 --- —[S.S.E. S.S.W. Light br. ſerene
8.
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A PPE N D IX, * :
T \ } I, ES OF THE
*** -ºlºmº.
R (). UTE OF THE ES)? E}{ * N C F.

DAT E. Variation of the
I T92. Needle Weſt. Therm | Barometer. Wind and State of the Weathur
O / / “ p. 1.
OŠtober. 3 az. 1 2 3 36; -- S.S.W. S.S.E. Moderate br.
& 1 ather nazy
November, ſr. , 28 46 S.S.E. S. Light breeze, hazy
2 fr. 1 6 8 —|S.S. E. S. E. Light br. hazy
3 ———— 21, 2 28 2,2 |S.E. S. lisht br. hazy
4- &==º S. E. S.E. We y little wind, bazy
5 E. E. S. E. Light br. rather hazy
6|az. 2 59 49| –––––|E. E.S E. Mod. br. hazy
7 ———| --|--——|b. S.E. E. Niod, br. hazy
8|az. I 19 36|| ----|-- .S. E. S. Moderate, ſe, ene
9| ſr. 2 59 56] 19,428 2,6 |\;S.E. S. S.F. Fine br; very fair
† O * = ma - || **-* | * S. S.E. S. E.; S. Fine br. cloudy
I I ———| --|--—lº; S.E. S. E.; E. Mod. br. cl.
I 2. ————| –––––|S S.W. S. E. Light br. cloudy.
I 3 ——— ——l-—|S.S.E. E.S.E. Light br. cloudy
I 4- ——— 19, 1 28 3, 1 |5.E; E. S. E. Model ate br. c.
13|az. 3 18 14 ————|S.E. S.S.E. Mod; by, cloudy
16 –––– ——|—|S.S.E. E.S.E. Mºd, br. cloudy
17| ſr. 3 36 52 |3.E. Fine br. cloudy
I 8 ——l --|--—l Ditto
I 9 —|———|S.E. E.S E. Violent ſqualls, cl.
º, O S.E4 E. S. E.; S. Mod. br. fair
21 az. 6 23 54 18,4|28 3,2 |S. S.E. S. Mod, br. cloudy, fair
2, 2. —r-- " Tº —|E.S.E. S.E. S. Fine br. cloudy
2 3 ———|S. E. E.S.E. Mod. br. cloudy
2. az. 7 46 34 ————|S.E. S. E. N. E. Mod.br, ºl.
E.N.E. S. S.E. Valiable, little
-: az. S & 12) ————— } wind, cloudy, and ſome rain
• 6 ——— ——l———l ( S.S.E. S.W. Little wind,
} rathcr cloudy
27|az, 8 9 6, 1992 28 4, 1 }*. S.E. Light breeze,
vely fine
28] az. 9 58 19 ———— łºsłº, wind.
very fine
20|az. 9 4 7 ——-– gºw.w. Little wind, very
* fine
3C az. 8 4.8 52 sºmeºmº. Wºº fine
… a .W. S. W. Vlod. Dr, fall
December. , az. To 26 16 —- afterwards a little rain
2} az, 9 38 36 ———|S.W. Light br. very fine -:
3 az. 9 5: 54, 14.3% 28 2,3 N.W. S.W. Light br. ºcry ºn:
4|az. Io 14 2. -- W. N.W. W.S.VV. Finebr. hazy
5 —— 13,0|28 1,2 W.S.W. Fine bºº: hazy
- 8 W.S.W. W.N. W. Fine by,
6. –-- I 4-yo lº & 2 × 5 hazy
| t
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A PP E N DIX.
53
TABLES OF THE ROUTE OF THE ESPERAN CE.



DATE, Variation of the
I 792, Necdle Weſt. Therm. | Baron. Wind and State of the Weather.
O / / / ° p. 1.
W.N. W. W. S. W. A ſmart
December. 7|az. 9 8 44 14,0|28 2, 5 } gale, rain, afterwards fair
8|az. 8 18 29, 14, 2 |28 1,8 W. N.W. Mod. br. cloudy
9| az. 8 1.9 16 13,5|28 2,7 W.S.W. Fine br. mod. br. ſerene
1ol az. 6 4.9 18 14,028 o,5 W. W.S.W. Moderate br. hazy
W.S.W. S.W. Smart gale,
I 8 ——— I 5, o 28 3, o E. E.N.E. Mod. br. fair
19|az. 5 58 54. I 5,5|28 3, o E. S. Mod. br. fair
2 o' az. 6 34. 18 S.E. S.S.W. Light br. fair, hazy
2 I I 5,2 |28 1, 5 S.S.E. E. E.N.E. Mod. br. cl.
E. S. Briſk, them very little
2, 2 I 6,o |28 1, 5 } wind, fair
23| ſſ. 5 36 7| 15,6|28 o, 5 S.E. E. Mod. br. cloudy, foggy
2.4-l a Z 8 I S. O |2 ºf I I }%; N.E., N.W. S. W.
4- 32. 5 I 5, O 27 I I, 9 Briſk, foggy, afterwards clear
25 az. 4 5 zo. 14,5|28 2, 3 S.W. W.S.W. Smart gale fair
26|az. 4 34 6. I 5, 1 28 1,0 |E. E.S.E. Mod, br. fair
E.S.E. S.S.E, S.S.W. Mod.
27 ſſ. 3 36 8 I 5, o |28 or 3 } br. hazy - -
28 º, *= #sº Very briſk, after-
2.8 az. 2 4-2 59 wards little wind, hazy
8. E. N. W. S. W. Light br.
29|az. 2 58 54. 16, o |28 3,0 } very fine b
30|az. 2 36 12| 16,o 28 2,0 E. E.N.E. Fine breeze, very fair
E. E.N.E. Mod. br. light br.
31|az. 2 19 52 | 19,5|28 oo } very fine
E. N. W.S.W. Light br.
January, 1|az. 2 53 19| 16,9|28 1,8 } ſtormy, atterwards foggy
I 793. 2|az. 2 17 4 17, 18 o, I W. N. E. Little wind, ſtormy, fog
S.E. E. N.E. Pretty briſk,
3 ————| 17, o 28 1,0 } tempeſtuous, afterwards foggy
4. 15, o|18 4,2 |S.E.S. Mod br. temp. then foggy
5|az. 1 24 16 14,5|18 5,o S.S.E. E.S.E. Mod. hr. hazy
6|az. o 34 54 –––– E.S.E. E. E.N.E. Mod. br. hazy
7|az. o 36 4 —|--———|E} N.E. S.E. Pretty briſk, hazy
8|az. 2 28 32| 13,4|28 3,0 S.E.E. Light br. cloudy
9 * - I - E. N. W. S.W. Little wind, cl.
8 W. S. W. S. S.S.E. Light
1 of az. 3 37 3 } br. a little rain, then fair
11|az. 2 47 52| 13, o |28 2, 3 (S.S.E. Little wind, then ca. fair
8 - S. E. E.N.E. Very little wind,
12|az. 1 5& 24 } light br. fair
13|az. I 48 27 —— N.E. N. N.W. Briſk, little w.fair
I 4. ———| ——|————|N.W. S. W. S.E. Mod. br. hazy
Eaſt. | t y
!, 5 E.S.E. N.W. Light br. them
15| ſr. o 16 19 11,4 28 4, 1 } calm, briſk, hazy, ſleet
54 A PP E N D IX.
TABLES OF THS ROUTE OF THE ESPERAN CE.
DAT g, Latitude Latitude Longitude | Longitude Variation of the
1793. South by South by Eaſt by Eaſt by Needhe-Eaſt.
Obſervation, Computation. Obſervation. Computatio: -->
O f z ! 0. z # * © p */ C} * A O º f f
January. 16| 4o 58 34 +1 1 2 4 13s 4, 18] I 35. 18 34 & º
17| 4 || 39 37| 41 48 19| 137 44, 37| 37 38 17 ſº. 3 54 37
I 8 2 38 5: 42 52 36|| 141 6 46|| 14-1 8 55
19| 42 5 I 19 42 56 58 I 42 49 18 I 42 32 4s
2 of 43 22 34| 43 28 24 143 29 6] 143 14. 4. ſſ. 6 52 4.
21| 43 44 48 43 48 36] 144 16 52] 144 2 6 tº sº
22| 43 38 1 —— 144. 46 3| –— ſſ. 7 24 56
At Dieman's
Land. s
February. 28 43 22 26. &ºmºmºmº 14-5 4-O Oo º
March. 1; 42 56 52| 42. 59 4 147 57 6, 147 55 3 fre 4 32
2] 42 32 34 42 25 8, 151 1 8, 151 13 8 fr. 9 16 8
3| 42 21 38|| 42 12 49] 1 53 14, 16| 153 2 1 38 ſſ. Io 44; 46
4 42 Io 54 42 2 4 15 1 3 155 42. 36 ſ. 1 1 38 oo
5 ———| 4-1 42 8| ----| 1 57 35 8
6 4.0 23 8 4o z1 54 – 159 26 4. * ºsmº
7| 39 27 19ſ 39 26 28 161 7 53| 16o 38 2 ſr. 13 8 oo
8| 37 53 4.3 37 4-4 4-6, 163 33 56| I 63 27 26 gº tºº
9| 36 24 36|| 36 28 56| I 65 48 19| 16.5 35 19 tºº
rol 35 36 12| 35 43 3| 166 52 59 166 43 19 ſſ, 13 19 oc
1 1 34 26 18' 34 22 29, 168 35 56] 168 17 56 ſ. 1 2 48 54
12| 34 23 36|| 34 12 26, 17o 18 32| 17 o 2. 34
33| 34 7 46|| 34 12 36|| 171 5+ 26, 171 26 34 *
1 4 33 15 54; 33 5 54; 174 13 52| 174 8 38 mºmº º
15| 32 38 44; 32 28 52; 176 26 14, 176 12 17| ſſ. I 1 23 23
16|| 31 55 19| 31 41 32| 178 34 53| 178 29 34] ---
17| 3o 19 17| 3o 18 27, 179 49 27, 179 42 24 ft 1 I 46 4
Weſt.
18; 29 34 36| 29 22 36} 179 54 26, 179 59 28 ſt. 11 49 34
eſt. r
19| 28 18 49| 28 28 18| 179 9 19 179 18 36 ſ. 1 o 56 54
2 O 27 9 4 ———— 178 38 44 ſ, 11 17 36
21, 25 58 36' 25 53 36|| 178 7 14, 178 32 46 tºº
}
22 24 19 26, 24. 9 34 176 18 4, 176 5 3 sº-º-º-
23, 22 8 39| 22 9 48 176 26 7| 176 22 8 ſſ, 9 43 I 6


A PP E N D I X.
55
TA BLES OF THE ROUTE OF THE ESPERAN CE.

DATE, Variation of al |
! I 793. Ncelle Eaſt. Therm. Barometer. Wind and State of the Weather.
O / / / Q p. 1.
- * .S.W. W. W.N.W. Mod,
January. 16| ſſ. o 34 58 - w; wº W.N.W.
W. W.N.W. Mod. br. hazy,
17|az. I 52 14 – --- } a little rain
18 -ºr smm. i - |N.W. W. S. W. Fine br.ha. ſleet
19 ——— Io, 3 |28 1,4- |S.W.S.S. W. S. Fine br.hazy,ſleet
O 8 I 1 , K 28 O S.W. Mod. br. afterwards
2. Of 32, 9 17 55 3, } calm. W. S.W. Briſk, ha. fair
2 f 6 3 N. W. Briſk, then calm. W.
|az. 7 32 56] 12,523 2,3 } Light brfair
22 ſr. 8 13 19 12,7|28 2,4 #. º wind, mod, br.
February. 28 az. 7 28 28 S.S.W. Mod. breeze, hazy, fair
March. † ——l 14, o 18 ox4 N N.W Mo.br.light br. veryfair
2| az. 9 I 7 oo — — ——IN W. W. S. W. Fine br. ha. fair
W.S. W. N.N. W. Light br.
3. fr. 12 44 oo tºmº } mod. br. fair
4. az. 1 2 38 oo gºme —|N.N. W. Fine breeze, hazy
5 ——|| 14,428 1,6 |N N.W. N.W. Fine br. cl. fog.
W. S.W. S. S. W. S.S.E. Fine
6 * tº-ſº } breeze, foggy
7| az. I 3 I 9 Oo — — . S.E. S. W. W. Mod. br. dark
| 8 fººms 15, 1 28 2 o N.W. W. S.W. Fine br. cloudy
9| az. I 3 44 oo — ——S.S.E. S. S.W. Mod. br. fair
S. W. N.W. Light br. mod.
Iol az. 1 2 46 19 º } br. very fine
I 1 az. I 2 59 oo smºs i " W. W. N. \\W. N.10d., br. very fine
I 2. — 16, 1 |28 o, 2 W. W.N. W. Niod, brfoggy
I 3 —| 17 2 |28 or 2 W. N.W. Light by . foggy
I + l2. II 43 56 tº- N.W., Mlod. b. . fºggy
N. V. N.N. W. Light breeze,
15|az. Io 49 26| – |---- } mod. breeze, foggy
N.W. N. S. W. Smalt gale,
I 6 ammº ºsº wºma - **** }. br. ſome rain
W. W.S. W. S.W. S. S. W. M. iod.
17|az. Io 36 26, 16,8|28 2,2 br. hazy
}
18|az. Io 44; 3 o' 17,o |28 3,5 |S.S.E. S. S.S.W. Light br; hazy
$ S. S.S. E. S.E. E.S.E. Light
19|ſt. 10 + 3 +9| – |--| by fair, atherhazy
} i S.E. E.S.E. E. E. N. E. Lt.
2 o' ſr. Io 33 4.6] 18,6 |28 2,0 } br. fair, afterwards cl. rain
* , N.E. N.W. Light b. mod.
2. I --- - - , br. cloudy, ran, then fair
2, 2 tºº smººsamºs- I -ºss N.S.W. S. Fine br. hazy, fair
S.S. E. S.E. E. S. E. Mlod, br.
23| az. 8 46 54|| - ——|} rather hazy, fair
36 A PPE N DIX.
TAB I, ES OF THE ROUTE OF THE ESPERANCE.
DATE, Latitude Latitude Longitude f Longitude Variation of the
I 793. South by | South by | Weſt by Weſt by I Needle Eaſt.
Obſervation. Computation. Obſervation.jcomputation -
+ ** * F
o f */ O / / / o " ..., o e ºr 0 0 fºr
March. 24, 21 9 36] 2 1 Io 32 – 177 16 9 ſ. 9 44 17
At Tongata- - t *;
boo.
April. 1o zo 55 23| zo 52 23, 177 26 4o 177 25 56 do. 9 14 oo
11| 2 o 1 2 38 2d 18 54 I 79 34 40. 179 42 24 –
: Eaſt.
12| zo. 2 8] 2 o 16 6 177 45 46 tºº tº ºf
I 3 2 o 8 16 175 37 16 ***
• Eaſt.
14 19 37 50 zo 9 4, 172 4, 2] 172. 48 3 tº-ºº:
15| 19 52 16, 20 9 34 169 43 Iol 169 48 16 do. 9 47 14
16; I 9 53 8, 20 15 167 54 30, 167 44 1 do. 1 1 26 14.
17| zo 8 52 zo 28 54 16.5 45 19, 165 58 16 do. 1 1 16 19
18| zo 22 35] 2 o 39 zó| 162 55 4 163 9 a ,”
19| 20 9 36] 2 o 16 56] 161 58 53 (62 4 53 fr. 11 19 4
zo. 2 o 16 4.6 do. 8 34. Io
Caledonia.
May. 1 of zo Io 48] 2 o 1z 38; 1.62. 15 18 162. 33 46
º 19 so 24, 19 54 14, 162 z 52 162 36 491 ff. '944 58
12 18 53 33 19 13 6 161 25 12| 161 42 5 do. 8 38 56
13| 18 31 13| 13 38 54|| 161 6 26, 161 38 8 do. Io 4 32.
14|| 17 38 59| 17 56 29, 161 6 55 161 34 6 do. 9 32 24
x 5' 16 28 oo 16 38 56| ——| 162. 14. 36 fr. 9 58 36
16| 14 42 59 14. 47 54. 163 4 15, 163 18 34
17 I 3 52 18 ——| 163 24, 36
18| 12 55 54. 12 58 44 162 39 15, 163 14. 46 do. 9 54 36
19| 11 38 17| 1 1 39 54. 163 13 52| 163 38 54. * gººms
20| 11 15 48] 1 1 1z 39| 163 32 2.5l 163 39 37 do. 9 43 4o
21, 1o 56 54. Io 56 49] 163 39 31, 163 52 14 ſſ. 2 18 46
22] Io 39 38 Io 47 17| 163 32 35| 163 45 54
23| Io 38 25] 1 o 36 34 163 21 Io 163 48 34 do. 1 o 12 6
24. Io 32 54- –| 163 34. 46 fººmsº
35 Io 58 36|| —| 162. 14 6 fººmsºmºrºsiº
26] 1 o 48 19| 1 || 8 47| 16o 17 35] 1 60 52 34 alºmºmºmº
27| Io 53 42| Io 58 34: I 59 4o 3ol. I 59 43 'ſ
28] I o 33 16. 1 o 18 47| 158 57 5| 158 52 8 tº ſº
29 9 53 34, 9 58 54. 159 7 4o 158 54 56 ſº. 9 14 45
30 — 1 o I2 52. - I 59 4. So tº-ººmsºn isºmºrºs
31|| 9 58 56] 10 32 56| 158 45 sol 158 3 56 do. 9 45 3%
June. 1| 16 7 16 10 12 18| 158 9 26, 157 52 26 do. 8 54 in

A PP E N D IX.
57
ſº A B LES OF THE ROUTE OF THE ESPE RAN CE.

Date, - Variation of the :
1793-, } Needli Eaſt, Therm Barometc. Wind and State of the Weather.
—i. t
|
," | * * * | * p. 1.
March. 24 a 2. 9. 46 36| 20, o 28 3,2 |N.E. S.E. Mod. br. hazy, fair
.
April, I O ————|E. E.S.E. Mod. br. hazy, fair
11|az. 9 16 54| 21, of 28 2,7 |E. Fine br. hazy, fair
... . . ––|———|E. E.S.E. Fine br. hazy, fair
I 3 –––– 20,8|28 2, 3 |E.S.E. Fine br. cloudy, ſome rain
... 14 ** —————|E. E.S.E. Fine br. cl, then ſerene
, is az, 9 24 52 –––– E. E. S.E. Mod. br. hazy, fair
I 6) dz , 9. 46 I 2 2 O, 7 28 I 32. }* S.E. S.E 3. E. Mod. br.
i h hazy, fair
17 S.E. Mod. br. afterw, fine br. fair
18 ———| 20, o 28 2 o |E.S.E. E. Fine breeze, cloudy
| 19 ———| 2 o', 3 |28 2, 2 | Ditto
| T. O —— 2O,4- 28 2 : 5 Ditto
May. o ſº. 9 33 16. 20, 28 2,3 |E.S.E. S.S.E.Light br; fair
| ſr. 6! —— N.E. S.E. Variable, very little
11 I + 3 wind, fair -
12| ſr. I o 1 2 5+| 2004 |28 2,6 $º Light br. afterwards
- fimart gale, fair
I 3 ſr. 9 2 5 26 S.E. Very little wind, fair
14|az, 9 44 5+| 29,7 28 3, 5 S.E. Littlewind, then light br.fair
I 5 —————|E.S.E. Briſk, then fine br. hazy
16 gº-> 2 1,2 |28 2,4 |E.S.E. Fine breeze, hazy
* - #. E. N.E. Guſts of wind,
17 4 tempeſtuous, cloudy, rain
1 S º-gº ºsº 2 1,828 2, 1 }º. E. E.S.E. Mod. br.
hazy, afterwards ſerene
I 9 ——|E. E. S.E. Mod. br. hazy
• , al., E.S.E. N. E. N.W. Little w.
zol az. 9 24 14 2.2,0.28 I jo } tempeſtuous, rain, aft, ſelene
- º E. N. S.E. Little wind, fair,
2 I ſr. 9 36 16] 23, o 28 Iyo } ſome rain, fair
2, 2. —— 22,528 1, o |E.S.E. N.E. N. Little w. hazy
23|az. 9 36 16| 23,028 oo |E. S.E. Little wind, hazy
2-4. 22,028 o,8 |E.S.E. Light breeze, hazy, rain
25 —l 22, o 28 1, 1 ||2. Fine br. cloudy, rain
2.6 22, 5 |28 o, 5 |E.S.E. Fine breeze, hazy
27 º 22,828 o,2 E. Fine bretzt, hazy
23|az. 9 42 17 22,628 o,2 |E. Fine breeze, hazy
az. 8 6] 22, 5 |28 O E. Mod. Sr. afterwards calm,
2.9 a 4. 4-9 3 ~ y S 55 W. little wind, hazy
30|az. 7 54 36 22,2|28 or 8 W. Squally, hazy fleet, rain
3-1 22, o 28 1,0 N. N.E. E.N.E. Light br. hazy
Juhe. 1|az. 8 52 18 22,528 o,6 |E.N.E. Mod, br. hazy
*XI CIN ºf J. J. W. 89
wºmentºº-ºº: |o 65 ºr 9% z 41 |: ; 25 & #3 & 2 fir
++ 8; 9 •op 41 tº 6+1 or 64 341 ºf 91 & 198 tº $ 24
£ 44, 9 'op |9% 8 6+ 1 |5%. 31 6+ 1 31 gy £ 6% 9+ £ 6
+t at 9 op|31 9 6+1 |wº 61 os 1 +5 g1 * * * * {3
45 tº 9 op|61 +s 8+1 |Sz 6 6+1 |9% gº + 8 º' + 14
9: 8 9 'op |9% $4 g4 I jos SS gºt 3 z+ + |9% 8% #9
98 Zº 9 •op 61 gº gº 1 |S 1 99 gº 1 |8 +5 V |** 15 + |}
39 z+ 9 'op |zs 6 &#1 |op ZS 141 ºf 18 v 89 + š +
§§ 41 ° op|95 gº Z41 |9% £S 441 |9% 4* * *z 4+ + |%
++ gº 9 'op 3 r + 1 Z+1 of $ 1 Z+ 1 39 zl 5 |99 6* * *
94 z+ 9 j |35 +S 9%. 1 || $ 1. Z+1 |98 & 1 5 9. § 3 || • Kºſ
Zg 99 541 oz 92 9+ 1 + 1 Sz 9 |9% 6% 9 o?
oo +& 9 -ij ||bg 9% $4.1 Sv. 19 S-91 vº º 1 4 |&# 3 & 62
6r $4 g4 1 or 44 Sv 1 ||6 9 4 gº 8 4 87.
*sº mm. 89 2& 34 1 |S$ 18 St. 1 |31 z £ 4 z+ +S 9 Zz
* mammº sºme + £ 61 9+ 1 ++ £1 9+ 1 |48 I 4 / 8% 9% 4. 92
*sº 99 44, 94.1 |S z 4% givi z+ 8 + 8 4 3 8 Sz
++ 8% / op|#5 tº z+ 1 +5 zz 4+ 1 ||6 8+ 3 |8% 91 3 |*z
8+ +$ 9 'op |z{ *z 841 || 1 / I gº 1 |9% 9° 3 6 91 & 97.
++ 98 Z op 99 3 6+1 |ot 69 gº 1 +$ 98 & '89 #1 3 |zz
-*** +5 g 6+ 1 +z 31 6+ 1 + £ 9 6 |6. CS 3 I ſº
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zS #8 Z -op # 8 6+1 |SS Z 6+ 1 +z SS 6 ++ z+, 6 64.
tºº 92 ºr 6+1 |zz + 1 6+ 1 |69 + or 6% tº 6 3 E
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98 + 1 Z -op |9+ 61 oš I or oz zS 1 |4+ 68 or 62 +z or 9x
98 61 / ‘op |z1 + 15 I Sº 31 oS 1 |9 8% or |zº 99 or 5 I
98 gº Z iſ |Z0 6, 151 |z{ gr 151 V1 31 1 1 |z{ 33 or **
* - mºmmºmes +& S zS 1 |S z +S IS 1 |3% 9 I I I lve * r * : [t t
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99 ++ £S 1 |S 1 tº £5 1 |zS +z 1 1 |9% 9 1 1 || 1
§ 1 + 1 3 J #5 gº +5 I |zº 48 &S 1 |9%. 6 11 t’S 62 II of
Z+ z 1 g iſ 6+ 6+ +S 1 |S 6+ +5 I |z1 + or 61 g or 6
oo oo 8 JJ |91 z I SS 1 of z I SS 1 |9% + 1 6 15° 3 r 6 |g
***mºmºe 39 g : SS 1 |z 6 SSI. 91 8+ 8 95 64, 8 L
+ £ 99 S $ 1 +9 & 6 +S 99 3 9
—— 1: 1 +S 95 1 |St S : 95 1 |4%. 32 6 |6% 9 6 |S
** 4 ++ 99 I or S 1 49 r + 1 z & 6 £+ Zz 6 +y
8 9%. 45 I + 6S 6 º
Gººmmº 92 &S 4S 1 |z2 A. 89 r + 1 zS 6 9 8 or |z “aunſ
f / / O / / / O * / / O a / O / / / O
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"AJea otp2*N Áq JBT Kq UE3 Kq qmos | Ag Hinos •8, 6... I
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**--º- d
*{{ONVYISH d S3 & H.L. & O &IJ,ſ) O'H & HJ, & O SEIT H.W.I.

APPEND I X.
TABLES OF THE
ROUTE OF THE E SPERAN CE.



h 2
DATE. Variation of the
1793. Needle Eaſt. | Therm. |Baromcter. Wind and State of the Weath r.
O / / / 9 p. 1.
June, 2. ———| 2 1,6|28 I, O |From S. to E. light br. cl. 1 in
*----| 2, 2S I,8 From S. to E. Guſts of wind,
3 I : 5 2 light br. cloudy, ſtormy
4. ——— 21,5|28 1, 5 |E.S.E. Mod, br. hazy
5 — 22, 5 |28 1, 5 S.E. Fine breeze, hazy
6 — 22,0 |28 oyo S.E. Fine br. hazy, rain, ſleet
7|az. 7 54 ool 22,0|28 1,2 |Ditto
8 ____ \ S.E.N.E.N.W. S.W.S. Light
br. haz v, rain, afterwards fair
9|az. 7 4.8 54 21,9 |28 1,6 S.E. E.S.E. Mod. br. hazy, rain
Io az, 7 36 4, 22, olz & 2, o E. E.N.E. Lt. br. fair, rain, ſleet
1 I az. 7 46 34 S.E. S. W. Lt. br. fair, rain, ſleet
12|az. 8 39 58 21, o 28 1,9 |S.E. Light br. fair, ſome ſleet
13|az. 7 28 14 20, 5 28 2,0 S.E. Light br. fair, then rain
E. S.E. S.S.E. Light br. fair.
I 4 — 21, ol.28 2,3 } afterwards .* *
I 5 ———| 21,0|28 3,0 S.E. Light br. fair
| 6 — 21, o 28 2,0 |E.S.E. S. E. Light br. fair
1 7 -- 21, 2 |28 2,0 S.E. S.S. E. Light br. fair
18 az. 7 46 ool 2 o,o 28 1,8 S.E. S.S. E. Light br. very fair
* C. S. E. Little wind, afterwards
1 9 21,5|28 1,9 } calm, very fine 2
20 ſt. 7 36 ool 21,6|28 1,9 |Ditto
2. I ———| 21,0|28 2,0 S.E. Mod. br. very fine
22 ſr. 7 18 ool 2 I, o|28 1, 5 S. E. S.S.E. Mod. b. very fine
S.S.E. S. E. Guſts of w
23|az. 6 34 ool 21,028 1,3 } fleet, tº. º of wind,
2 || az. 6 46 ool 22, o 28 2,7 S.E. Mod. br. hazy
2.5 – 21,428 2, 5 S.E. Mod. br. thcal light br. hury
z 6 ———— 21,7|28 2, 3 |S. E. Light br. hazy
•y E.S.E. S.E. Light br. then
2.7 —l 21, o 28 2,6 } fine br. fleet, ..
W. N. W. N.W. io º
28 az. 6 9 ool zo,o 28 2, o } hazy, i. º Light br
29 az. 6 12 ool 21,728 1, 5 }siºsº.º.º.
30|az. 6 1 4 ool 2 I so 28 I, o S. S.S.E. Mo, br. then fine br.ha.
Suiy. 1| |r. 6 36 ool 22, o |28 o, 5 S.S.E. Mod, br. var. then ca, fine
* 2. -º- 22, 2 28 I, o |S. E. E.S.E. Mod. br. fair
3|az. 6 34 ool 22, o 28 1, 1 S. S.E. Briſk, very little w. fair
4- ——— 22, 2 |28 I, o Calm, S. light br. fair
S ————l 22,428 o, 7 |Ditto
6 ºrs mºms 22,5|28 1,0 S.E. Stormy, light br. fair
*- N.W. Light br. then calm,
7 ſr. 6 44 ool 22,528 or 7 } cl. ſtormy, rain, then ſerene
8 fr. 6 38 ool 22, 5 |28 or 5 S.S.E. Light br. fair
9|az, 6 32 oo 23,228 I O º: t
IC ——— 23, o 28 o,7 Ditto
—l 21,6 28 O $ S.E., Light br. ſqually, hazy,
* I *iºus- - *|- * | * rain, then fair
"XICINGI did W. %9
81 ++ 1 'ſ l, z1 of 1 |S gº 621 gr S o zS $ 1 o z* , , :
vz 8% of 1 -— 6x g o |2% I o It'ſ
—— 9% + 1, 1 ; 5 - 1%r or 5 o £ g o or
+1 gº Z “op ºf 8% tº 1 of 95 12.1 5 9 o 92 - 6 o 6
“unos
++ 9; 1 op 9: + zº. 1 #5 9% zº. 1 |4% $1 o 85 & 1 o ||8
* u, IoM
-º-mºmºmºsº 8 z zº. 1 oz of zº. 1 |8%. 1 o tº 81 o 4.
* (Ilio N
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91 gº z J zS ++ tº 1 —— |31 6 o ——— 13
9% ++ z iſ ºf 95 tº 1 — |9%. S I o – 4,
6 gº z op 9+ 6 + 1 |oo of + 1 || + 5 o żº 5 o £
oo 32 z -op |z 3% + 1 |$z 15 tº 1 ºz 8 o * 3 S o Z
-º-mº ºsmºs 61 + 1 5ſ 1 o'S 99 S : 1 |4+ Sz o 9+ 8 o I 'Jnáily
61 3: 8 -op 41 6 1 4 1 –––– 9 ºz o I £
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81 / 1 + j 3 6s 8%. 1 of z; 6% I |35 % o *S 8 o 42
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4+ 31 + Iſ |8%. 3% of 1 |2% 99 ot, 1 |30 1 o 68. 8 o $ 2
* u, noS
31 +s + -ij |94 ºr 1+1 |54 zz rv1 |&# 1 o |*& 2 o +z
‘Urao N "UžioMI
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61 86 g iſ #9: 6: z+ 1 |z1 z £ºr tº 42 o & 1 z+ o [ 2.
, 61 & 1 + -ij |94 gº z+1 |9, 6 &#1 |92 zz o ſº; 8% o O &
48 vs. 4 J 8+ 9% z+1 —— |61 1: o –– 61
- 95 Z C+ 1 |zS £z £+ 1 3 97 o or 6% o 3 I
st +z g :op z i +5 tº 1 || 1 S ++ 1 + 1 tº o |*$ 90 o || 1
38 92 ++1 |oº Sº ##1 |31 6% o SI 79 o 9i
*memºsºm-tºm-º: (84. 2 -94.1 |9 S ++ 1 |&# 25 o 68 E5 o $ I
tºmeºmºsºmas-º St #9 -94. I log z+ St. 1 3 r z 1 1 92 S 1 tº r
*S +z 9+1 || 5 of 941 |4+ z I - 64, 6 x 8. I
+3 ºr 9 iſ lºt S Z+1 oz + Z+1 ºr 8% z [9ſ 1% z Z I Ájttſ
tº l -
** * O a 47 O * / A O w Z af Ö .# A z O
w uonranduoo uoileauajqO | uonennduo C uoiarajajº O
'Ata 2Upson Áq jpg Aq ūr‘I Kq ūnnoS Ka unnos • £62. I
aun jo uometic Aſ opni ſãuo'I | 2pm, 3uo'I optºpe"I apnutlerſ *3 L V CI
“33) NVYIQ disºſ SHH.J., HO SIJCſ10^{ & H.L. “CIO SãTºIYAL


A PP E N D IX.
61
TABLES OF THE ROUTE OF THE ESPERANCE.

*==–
DA re, Variation of th:
I 793. Necdle Eaſt. Therm. || 3arometer | Wind and State of the Weather.
0. A. * / Q p. 1.
ſuly. tºº sº | | E. S.S.E. Guſts of wind,
Ju y I 2. } hazy, rain, then fine
I 3 sºmºsºmºl ºmº #: Guſts, light br. hazy,
1'ain, then fair
14 az. 5 42 ool 23, 2 |28 o,6 |S. E. Guſts, light br. hazy
I 5 — 23,2|28 o,9 |E. Very light br. hazy
I 6 gºsº gº N. N. W. S.S.E. Light br.
hazy, ruin, cloudy
17 *** * —|Ditto
I Š tº sºmeºs 22,8|28 I, o |E. N. Guſts, hazy, rain, cloudy
w I () a Z 2. 2 5 O }s; E. N. N. W. Guits,
9 a. 4- 37 OO || 2 3,4- 2 , 7 hazy, rain, cloudy
2O ——— — — ——|W. S. S.E. Very little wind, hazy
2 1 az. 4 38 ool —————S. S. E. Little wind, very fine
22; az. 3 59 ool — Ditto
23 fr. 4: 14 ool 23,628 o,9 |E.S.E. Light br. very fine
24- ———— 22,8|28 1, 1 |Ditto
25 ſr. 4, 8 oo! —— E. E.N.E. Light br. hazy
26} — — ————|E. S.E. Little wind, ſtormy
27 —— — — ——|E. S. Guſts of wind, ſtormy
2S ——| 24, 1 |28 I, 3 |S. W. N.W. Guſts, fleet, rain
C 9 tºº-º-º-º: W. S.W. Mod. br. hazy
3 O * —————|S. E. Little wind, mod. br. hazy
31|az. 3 33 ool 23,8|28 1,4 |S. E. N. Guſts, cloudy, rain
Auguſt. I *E=amºm. S. S. E. E. Mod. br. hazy
2|az, 2 J 8 4S -— E. N. Light br. then calm, hazy
3|az. 2 24 58] 24,0|2S 1,2 N. W. S. W. N. Little wind, fair
4. W. W.S. W. Light bi , hazy, rain
W.S. W. W. N.W. Light br,
5 23, 7 (28 O, 8 } hazy, rain
6 — 23, 2 |28 1,3 W. S.W. S. Light br. hazy, rain
; S. S.W. Fine br. light Sr.
7 } hazy, rain
8 ———| 24, 2 18 o,6 S.W. S.S.E. Briſk gale, fair
9 az, a 49 36 £. S. Light bº. hazy
2.8 S. S. W. W.S.W. Light br.
IO ***9 |** *9 then fine br. r...in
* I | az. I 19 46 W.S.W. S. S.E. Light by rain
#. S. W. S. S. E. Light br,
I 2 tº ºne sº- grººm-º mºsºmamºtº- §
hazy, faun
i
62 APPEN DIX,
TABLES OF THE ROUTE OF THE ESPERAN CE.
DAT g, Latitude Latitude Longitude Longitude Variation of the
I 793. North by North by Eaſt by Eaſt by Needle Eaſt,
Obſervation. Computation, Obſervation. Computation.
O f A r O / & f O Af A / O f * / Q a z a
Auguſt: 13| — o 6 4 129 32 16 ſſ. 1 18 39
14 o 1 2 39 o oo 49' 129 48 25 129 26 J 6. ſſ. I 48 36
South.
I 5 o 2 36 o oo 36 129 34 3| 129 8 19 ſſ, 1 38 44
North. South.
16 o 1 27 o oo 39 129 2 4 ſſ. o 44, 48
At Waygiou. *
23| o 3 44 o 2 43 I 29 15 2. 129 14 54 ſ. 1 8 7
South.
29 o 6 36 o 14 16 128 33 8, 128 37 44 ſſ. o 44, 12.
39 o 33 38 o 38 19 127 24, 16 127 52 16 tº:
3 o 56 16 o 58 I 4 127 14. 6 127 16 19 ſº. o 34 18
September. 1 1 38 29] 1 29 37 127 2 36|| 127 8 4
2. 2. I4 42|| 2 3 42| 126 28 36|| 126 52 24 ſſ. o 46 8
Weſt.
3 2 4-8 4-3 2 38 ool 1 2 5 4.8 6. 126 14, 8 ſr. o 8 48
4. 3 18 24 3 8 32 125 22 4 1 2 5 48 4 ſſ. o 8 44.
At Bourou.
I 6 2 43 54 3 4. 6 12.4 52 16, 124. 54. I6 ſº. 1 36 18
17 2 5 I 52 2 58 32| I24- 8 36. I24 42 36 ſ. o 17 42
Eaſt.
18| 3 28 oo 3 2 5 36|| 122 54 48 123 19 7 ſſ. o 13 19
19| 3 28 46|| 3 33 3| 123 19 43' 123 23 42| ſſ. o 36 38
Weſt,
2 o' 4, 14 37| 4- 8 36|| 1 22 36 48] 1 22 4.8 34 ſr. o. 4 38
2, I 4, 18 14| 4 28 34 x 22. 3 16. 122 8 26 ſſ. o 43 48
22, 4, 18 56|| 4 3 2 46] 1 2 1 38 46 121 32 46 ſ. o 41 39
2 3 4. 22 4 4 28 16, 121 8 16. 121 18 16 *mºnºammams
24- *—- ſſ. o 34 42
2 5 4 3 2 38 **
In the Strait
of Bouton.
26 *s
27| 4 38 34 ſr. o 4.6 3.5
28; 4 36 38 4— — ſſ. o 26 18
29 4 38 36 | 12o 4.6 2 —| ſr. o 46 54.
3o 4 43 I 4 12 O 59 4.
O8tober. 1 4 47 28 ººmmºn
2. sºm ſºlº

A PPEND IX.
63
TABLES OF THE ROUTE OF THE ESPERAN CE.

DATE, Variation of the
I 793. Needle Eaſt. Therm | Barom. Wind and State of the Weather,
O z / / O p. &
Auguſt. I 3 —— 22,4|28 1,3 |S.W. S.E. Little wind, rain
14|az. o 24, 18 22, 3 |28 o,6 S.W. S.E. Little wind, cloudy
assº N.W. W. Guſts of wind,
I 5 ºgºn -º-mm-H assº ºwmº ºne- } light br. ram
16 — —————|S.W. Guſts, fair
28 ———l 21,918 I, o S.W. Light breeze, hazy
29 ———S. S. S.E. Fine br. hazy
3ol az. o 48 14 22, o 28 1, 1 S. S.S.E. Mod. br. hazy
31 az. o 14. 48 S. S.S.E. Light br. hazy
September. I —l 22,6|28 1,4 |S. S.S.E. Mod, br. hazy
2. ºmmº- tº- S.E. W. Light br. hazy
Weſt.
3| az, o 6 44; 22,428 1,3 |E.S. Light br. then calm, hazy
4- * - S.E. Mod. br. hazy
16 —— 22, § 28 1,6 |E.S.E. Mod. br. then calm, fail
17|az. o 18 44 ————|E.S.E. Very little wind, fair
Eaſt.
18|az. o 18 47| 22, 1 |28 1,4 S.S.E. Mod, br. fair
19| ſr. o 22 10| 22,3|28 1,7 |Ditto
Weſt.
o] az. o 18 36|| -- S.S.E. S. E. Mod. br. fair
1| fr. o 12 16 22,0 |28 1, 5 S.S.E. Light breeze, fair
S.S.E. E.S.E. Very little
2, 2. ———- 22 24 (2.8 2, o } wind, fair
23|az. o 16 36 22, o 28 1,7 S. S.S. W. Very little wind, fair
From N. to E. Guſts of wind,
2 + 22, 2 |28 1,5 } fair
From E.S.E. to W.S., WV.
25 ——| 2 2,6 |28 o,7 } Moderate br. fair
26 az, o 6 29 ———|S.E. Mod. br; fair *
27 az, o 48 34 22,S 28 1, 5 |E.S. E.N.E. Mod. br. fair
2S az, O 34. 52 E. Light br. fair
29 ————| 2 2,7|2 S 1,6 **
3O ———— 22, 5 x 8 1,7 ===
()ètober. I -— 22,7|28 J, 3
2. *ºtºs º-se so |&S 1, 5 -
64
APPENDIX.
TABLES OF THE ROUTE OF THE ESPERAN CE.

DATE, Latitude Latitude Longitude Longitude
I 793. South by South by Eaſt by Eaſt by
Obſervation. |Computation. Obſervation. Computation
O * f f O a f/ O * // a f / /
Oćtober. 3
4.
5 -
6 5 28 4 ——— 12 o 44, 8) —
7| 5 47 56|| 5 54 56] 1 I 9 38 34] I 19 42 38
8| 5 45 43| 5 52 44; 118 43 56] 1 18 46 38
9 6 5 34. 6 12 8] 1 17 25 14- 1 17 32 7
IO 6 16 38 6 12 38 116 2. 36 I 16 4 35
11| 5 53 36|| 5 56 48] 1 14: 54, 16|| 1 14 53 38
12| 5 44 52| 5 53 54 II 3 42 34] I 13 4-4 56
I 3 6 18 34. 6 26 34] 1 1 2 45 34 11 2 58 37
J 4- 6 52 36 6 53 4.6] I I I 56 52 | 1 12 z 4.5
I 5 6 52 16 6 52 28, 11 1 28 12| 11 1 28 12
I 6 6 55 4 6 56 4' 11o 59 54] 1 Io 59 18
17 6 56 44. 6 58 32| 1 Io 4.8 46|| 1 Io 52 7
I 8 6 58 oo –– 11o 54. sº Cº-º-º-º:
At Surabaya; |
ſī.
do.
do.
*=eam
Variation of the
Needle Weſt.
O 3+ Io
do. o 38
do. o 18
7
37
o 29 4-4-
| do.
do.
do.
do.
ſr.
do.
do.
| do,
O
O
I
O
O
Y
37 46
18 36
3 6
36 24.
52 6
I 8 46
I
I
I
34. 18
26 4.8
22 O'Q
A PP E N D IX. 65
TABLES OF THE ROUTE OF THE ESPERAN C F.

DATE, Variation of the
I 793. Needle Weſt. Theim. |Barometer. Wind and State of the Weather.
O A // O P. 1.
Oćtober. 3 -—— 23, 3 |28 1,8
4. ———| 22, 8 |28 1,6
5 S.S., E. E.S.E. Mod, br. fair
6 —— 22, 3 |28 1,8 |S.S.E. E.S.E. Guſts of wind, fair
7| ſr. I 9 34 22, 1 |28 1,6 From S. to W.S.W. Mod.
y j br. fair
8 22,4|28 1,4 |S.E. Mod. br. fair
ſr. 1 K.3 c.2) 22, o 128 1,8 #: E. to S.E. Mod. br.
9| 1 || - 5ö 5 ~ || 2 very fair
rol ſt. I 56 38 22,8|28 1,7 |E.S.E. S.E. Mod. br. fair
; : ſr. o 56 44; 22,5|28 1, 5 |E.S.E. Mod. br. fair
12| ſr. o. 2 3 47 —— Ditto
13| ſr. 1 48 9 2 3, 5 |28 1,6 |Ditto
I 4. ——— 23,0|28 1, 5 Ditto
I 5 ———l 23,028 1,4 |N.E. Mod. br. fair
I 6 ——— 23,6|28 1,2 |N. W. Mod. br. fair
º 17 —— 23,7|28 1,3 |N.N.W. N. Mod, br. fair.
# 8 ——l 23,6|28 1, 5 |N.E. S.W. Fair
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